# Need direction with my 5hp Tecumseh



## PZL523 (Dec 7, 2014)

This is off an older Craftsman 5-23 Track Drive Snowblower

Model number off of the pull cover shroud is 14(3or8) 794 053 SER 8263B

I cant find a lot of info on the web about this one. Its an odd ball engine I guess because of the additional pulley off of the cam. Hoping you guys can point me into the right direction. I found the Technical Handbook for 3-11hp for a ton of different models but I will need to order parts so I want to know as much as I can up front.

Thanks in advanced!


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*5 hp*

What's the question or problem? That's a fairly common engine in it's time. The 2d shaft was a counter rotation shaft used for the drive. Good little engine. About the only problem with them is if they die, it's hard to find another twin shaft replacement engine without going used or NOS.

Most motor shops can convert Sears model numbers to the original Tecumseh numbers. I have to say, I've bought alot of carb kits and misc parts just referencing it's a 5 hp Tecumseh and didn't have a problem. Biggest differences typically relate to the carb and throttle between the various twin shaft 5 hp's I've had.

I've brought several of those back to life after having sat for years in some cases.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello PZL. From page Xiii of the cross reference section in the Tecumseh 3-11 hp service manual - your Sears engine number 143.794053 I a Tecumseh motor number HS50-67291H. Serial number (8)263B is probably 1988 or 1998.Parts tree and other sites have this engine listed and parts are available. I hope this helps.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/tecumsehpartslist/HS50-67291H.pdf


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Your the only one that knows......did that 5.5 HP serve your total purpose.....I lived with one for many years....it ran great...after replacing the carb once. I would as I have in other post, recommend more power. Look at a 8 HP. May be time for a new machine.


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## timreefer (Nov 28, 2014)

*5 hp*

That looks like the engine on my tracked craftsmen.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*motors*

There wasn't a large difference between the various years of the Tecumseh 5hp
Here's one that's probably 15-20 years older than yours yet the majority of parts will interchange.


It's a good solid motor with parts available.


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## PZL523 (Dec 7, 2014)

yah thanks guys, nothing is wrong with the engine just wanted to be ready incase something needed replacing. I was having trouble identifying my engine with the cross reference and wanted a decent idea on sourcing parts.

I pulled the head off and cleaned up some carbon around the piston and valves. Poked around and cleaned it up some more. The cylinder still has factory honing cross marks. I was impressed! Then I panted a few pieces here and there with a high temp rattle can. Runs better with a simple carbon clean up! 

My muffler kind of stands out like a soar thumb now, do the newer ones hold up better to rust?


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Engine*

Looks pretty good to me. You can add an electric starter if you want without any problems. It should Take a 3 bolt one, but people want a mint for them around here.

If you want to clean up the piston and valves, here's my tip. First find yourself a true brass rotary brush you can chuck in a drill. Get yourself a aerosol can of brake cleaner. Pull the head and rotate the piston to the top of the bore. Spray on the brake cleaner and let it set a little then first use a plastic scraper and clean off what you can. Then spray again and use the drill/wire brush and you'll have a squeeky clean piston. Rotate it so one value is open then do it the same way, including around the valve seat and bottom of the valve. Rotate the crank so the other is open and do that one. Do the underside of the head.
Once it's done, use brake cleaner and clean up everything squeeky clean with a rag. When done, I like to spray down the cylinder walls and top of the piston with a little WD40 prior to reassembling. Put it back together and try it out.
Only thing to watch is brake cleaner will do a job on paint and some plastic if you get it where you don't want it.

Here's a 10 hp I did it on, the first shot is after doing the plastic scraper

Then after doing the brass wire brush

It was squeeky clean and ran like a champ after I got through going through that engine.


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## PZL523 (Dec 7, 2014)

HCBPH said:


> Looks pretty good to me. You can add an electric starter if you want without any problems. It should Take a 3 bolt one, but people want a mint for them around here.
> 
> If you want to clean up the piston and valves, here's my tip. First find yourself a true brass rotary brush you can chuck in a drill. Get yourself a aerosol can of brake cleaner. Pull the head and rotate the piston to the top of the bore. Spray on the brake cleaner and let it set a little then first use a plastic scraper and clean off what you can. Then spray again and use the drill/wire brush and you'll have a squeeky clean piston. Rotate it so one value is open then do it the same way, including around the valve seat and bottom of the valve. Rotate the crank so the other is open and do that one. Do the underside of the head.
> Once it's done, use brake cleaner and clean up everything squeeky clean with a rag. When done, I like to spray down the cylinder walls and top of the piston with a little WD40 prior to reassembling. Put it back together and try it out.
> ...


Yup, I used some old brake cleaner and a wire brush too. Wish I took some after shots but oh well.


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## timreefer (Nov 28, 2014)

*motor*



PZL523 said:


> This is off an older Craftsman 5-23 Track Drive Snowblower
> 
> Model number off of the pull cover shroud is 14(3or8) 794 053 SER 8263B
> 
> ...


This is my motor.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

I had the same basic engine on my MTD.

Seemed very reliable and always easily started. My major complaint is that is was very underpowered when it came to wet snow.

I never felt I needed an electric starter. You can only add the electric starter if your fly wheel has gear teeth in it. If you look at the first picture posted by HCBPH you can see the gear teeth on the outside of his fly wheel. 

Looks like you take care of it and it should hold up for a long time as long as you change the oil and use good clean gas. Don't worry about the rust on the muffler. They all eventually rust.


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## PZL523 (Dec 7, 2014)

timreefer said:


> This is my motor.
> View attachment 32617


yup muh, the dual pulley setup. Looks good!


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## PZL523 (Dec 7, 2014)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> I had the same basic engine on my MTD.
> 
> Seemed very reliable and always easily started. My major complaint is that is was very underpowered when it came to wet snow.
> 
> ...


I just looked back at some other pics on my phone and yes I have teeth on my fly wheel. But im not as interested in a e-start as I am in a light. Guess I need a fly wheel stator or something that I dont have on my engine to power a light setup.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

PZL523 said:


> I just looked back at some other pics on my phone and yes I have teeth on my fly wheel. But im not as interested in a e-start as I am in a light. Guess I need a fly wheel stator or something that I dont have on my engine to power a light setup.


 Get T-boned by a truck, you'll look forward to an electric starter.
I can't say I've ever seen a light stator on a 5 HP. I have on a 10 hp and it's not just a unbolt one and bolt on the other. You have to retime the engine after the change which means pulling the head etc and use a dial indicator etc. Just FYI

Paul


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## PZL523 (Dec 7, 2014)

HCBPH said:


> Get T-boned by a truck, you'll look forward to an electric starter.


ouch, yah I bet!


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