# Tecumseh HMSK105-159915C help



## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

Hello to all. I'm new to the forum. I found this place doing a search on Tecumseh engines. Sorry for long explanation, but, I just want to be thorough. 
Some basic info: (North Star - from Northern Tool) Murray 629118X0A Bought new in 2003. I'm the original owner. Been using ethanol free fuel and stabilizer for the last 10 years. All basic maintenance was done by me. Engine would fire-up 1-2 pulls with a few pushes on the primer and full choke. I've only used the e start a few times. Machine has functioned, and ran flawlessly for all these years. Never a blower or engine problems until now. Blower sits in my climate controlled garage all year except for when I need to clear snow. I replace the oil (5W-30 synthetic) and drain the fuel after the season is over. 
Here's what has happened. Two weeks ago was the first time the blower needed to be used. I checked my oil level and filled the tank with fresh non ethanol fuel. Didn't start on a few pulls after doing what I've been doing since day one. I then went to the e start. It fired-up after 4 or so attempts. Idled fine for a minute or two. Went to raise the throttle and that's when I heard a loud rapping noise coming from the engine. ( I've never heard anything like this ever from this engine. I shut it down immediately. I don't have a compression tester, but, I pulled the spark plug wire off and pulled the cord several times. I had the normal amount of compression when pulling as I remember.
A few days later I pulled the head for inspection. Some carbon on the cylinder and valves. I then pulled the engine off the machine and tore it down. I'm no expert when it comes to engines. This is my first tear-down. I just like to tinker. The piston, rings, connecting rod, valves and clearance, crank, and cam look good to me. The cylinder wall still has cross hatch marks with no scoring.
Could it have been a carbon build-up on the piston that caused this horrendous sound ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

By the way, The carb on this engine has a fixed jet if this helps.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

welcome! 

that's pretty typical carbon build-up for an engine this age. 

good on you for jumping right in!

Unless it ingested something (you'd see ding marks on the head/piston), it could it be a fuel issue; super-rich (choked?) or super-lean (dirty carb?). was it coughing-up a bunch of black smoke when it was making all of that racket?

what did the spark plug look like?

Lastly, are you positive the noise was coming from the engine and not the machine itself?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Does your machine have a light on it? Possibly a magnet came loose from the inside of the flywheel?

Welcome to SBF.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

classiccat said:


> welcome!
> 
> that's pretty typical carbon build-up for an engine this age.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the welcome and response. I appreciate it. I figured, what the heck. I'm not going to run it like this. No ding marks on the head or piston. Once it started, I took the choke off like normal. The noise came when I increased the throttle. No coughing or black smoke at all. Spark plug has some dry carbon build-up on it, but nothing too bad or wet.

Yes, I'm positive it was from the engine. After I pulled the engine off the blower, I took the bottom pan off and check the entire drive-line. All is good and tight. I then went through rest of the blower pushing and pulling on all parts. Auger and impeller are fine. Discharge chute is fastened properly, and tight. I even raised the unit off the ground and pulled and pushed both wheels. All is OK.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

Grunt said:


> Does your machine have a light on it? Possibly a magnet came loose from the inside of the flywheel?
> 
> Welcome to SBF.



Thanks for the welcome and response as well. I appreciate it. Yes it does have a light. That was one of the things I saw when I did a search. All 3 magnets are intact in the inside of the Flywheel. I also learned about the possibility of a busted Flywheel key. The key was intact, no cracks or broken pieces.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Welcome, and good for you for just diving into the engine! I've worked on several machines, including some engine work, but haven't been brave enough to open up the bottom end. Of course, they haven't needed it, so there was no real reason to. 

I'm having a hard time thinking of what in an engine would go from sounding normal, to a noise like that, as you raised the RPM. 

I realize this is probably tough to answer, but how frequent was the noise, did it seem like it was with every engine revolution, for instance? 

I'd probably put the engine back on the machine, but don't install any of the belts. Start the engine, and see if you hear the noise as you change the speed. If you don't, add the belts, and check again. On my Ariens, the transmission belt is turning constantly, even before squeezing the handle. So there is at least something else spinning along with the engine, as another possible source of noise. If yours is the same way, it may be worth doing the test, just to help confirm the source of the noise. 

If you confirm it's the engine, great, ignore the other stuff. And if perchance the noise changes when you add a belt, then you can better focus your troubleshooting.

PS- If you have a mechanic's stethoscope (like this https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B01BUJZBOO/), you could use that to help pinpoint the noise location, by touching it to different areas with the engine running. Or you can use something like a rod, with one end against the engine, and the other end against your ear, or the side of your head. Just anything to help transmit noise directly from specific locations on the machine.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

Classic cat, I just realized you're in Albany. I'm in Jefferson, Schoharie County a few miles off of I-88
It's a small world !!!!!!! It's freezing up on the mountain for the last week plus. I know you guys are only 10 degrees warmer.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

brother grunt had a good suggestion...maybe something got slapped around the shroud / flywheel.

since it's still apart, inspect the governor spool closely to make sure that it did not grenade, lose a counterweight, some teeth, etc. It's plastic.

Inspect the cam closely...specifically at the compression release mechanism.

Have you taken the valve cover (breather) off to see if both valve keepers are still seated and the valve springs in place?


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> Welcome, and good for you for just diving into the engine! I've worked on several machines, including some engine work, but haven't been brave enough to open up the bottom end. Of course, they haven't needed it, so there was no real reason to.
> 
> I'm having a hard time thinking of what in an engine would go from sounding normal, to a noise like that, as you raised the RPM.
> 
> ...


 
Thank you for the welcome and response as well. I'm happy to hear you never had to open up any of your engines.
Yes, on this Tecumseh, there's not much inside once you open it up.
From what I know about my blower: It's driven by chains under the pan which I use a small amount of spray chain lube every 2 years. I'm almost certain none of the 2 belts are turning when the auger and drive levers are in the up position. I replaced both the auger and drive belt 3 years ago. The belts are in great shape as well as the friction wheel and plate.


I don't have a stethoscope. After hearing what I heard, I was afraid to start it again.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

Thanks guys,
I'll post a few more photos later tonight if you guys would be kind enough to take a little further look. I could be missing something from my lack of knowledge. I really appreciate all the help.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

mtblade said:


> Classic cat, I just realized you're in Albany. I'm in Jefferson, Schoharie County a few miles off of I-88
> It's a small world !!!!!!! It's freezing up on the mountain for the last week plus. I know you guys are only 10 degrees warmer.


Yep, you're about an hour away. There are a handful of active members from the capital region. 

I think we hit 20 today... almost T-shirt weather!


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)




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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

Cleaned up the top of the piston so I can see better.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Time to take the side cover off if everything looks good under the flywheel. Sounds to me like the rod bolts may have come loose.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

The only thing I see is a few raised areas of the governor teeth at 7-9 o'clock area.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Sorry your last post slipped in just before I hit the post button. 

It's cold here too on the other side of Oneonta.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Magnet edges look sort of rough. You didn't find any debris inside or stuck to the magnets?


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

deezlfan said:


> Sorry your last post slipped in just before I hit the post button.
> 
> It's cold here too on the other side of Oneonta.



Hello deezlfan, 


Thanks for the response. Nice to know you're in Oneonta. I'm 27 miles to the Home Depot via the south side route.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

deezlfan said:


> Magnet edges look sort of rough. You didn't find any debris inside or stuck to the magnets?


 
Nothing at all. It was probably cause by me. I stuck the widest flat chisel I had behind it as I was tapping the flywheel off. I hope I didn't screw up the magnets too much ?
I didn't have a puller.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

What did the rest of the stuff under the flywheel look like? Clean as the rest of the motor? Was thinking a rodent may have dragged some stuff up inside. Also did you shake the muffler after you took it off? Possible loose baffle.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Wha


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

A few days ago I read that carbon build-up can create a really loud rapping sound due to the minimal space of these flat head engines. Has anyone ever heard of this, or experienced it first hand on their Tecumseh. I really don't know what else it could be.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

deezlfan said:


> What did the rest of the stuff under the flywheel look like? Clean as the rest of the motor? Was thinking a rodent may have dragged some stuff up inside. Also did you shake the muffler after you took it off? Possible loose baffle.


Perfectly clean. No rodent problem. Yes, I did shake the muffler. Solid, no noise at all. On the tear down, all the nuts and bolts were tight. Not one was loose anywhere on the engine. I was hoping I would have found something loose. It would have been much easier.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

jtclays said:


> What's the starter gear look like?



All intact.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

> A few days ago I read that carbon build-up can create a really loud rapping sound due to the minimal space of these flat head engines. Has anyone ever heard of this, or experienced it first hand on their Tecumseh.


No, not really. You would need a tremendous amount of carbon to cause a knock like you described and I see no evidence of it in your pictures.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

deezlfan said:


> No, not really. You would need a tremendous amount of carbon to cause a knock like you described and I see no evidence of it in your pictures.


Thanks

I'm going to clean everything up, order a gasket set, put it back together and see what happens. Thanks guys. I appreciate all the input.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I'm intrigued by the oversized piston (0.010"). It would suggest rebuild but you've had it since new.

The governor gear marring hopefully came from assembly when they tried to mesh it with the cam gear.

before slapping it together, make sure the governor spool / weights still move freely and as-intended.

the same goes for the compression release...it's only supposed to bump the exhaust lifter at low-speed.

i don't know if it's an optical illusion but is the left-side of the main journal damaged?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Was


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## 351beno (Oct 12, 2017)

What did you have for valve lash? I would check to see if a valve seat is loose. Did it rev right up to full rpm or just kind of chug when you tried to go full throttle?


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

classiccat said:


> I'm intrigued by the oversized piston (0.010"). It would suggest rebuild but you've had it since new.
> 
> The governor gear marring hopefully came from assembly when they tried to mesh it with the cam gear.
> 
> ...


Thanks for pointing that out. I think it was OK. I'll take a closer look when I get home from work.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

Thanks for your response. Yes the oil dipper was intact and pointing straight towards the bottom. The lower rod bolt goes through the dipper on this engine. Both rod bolts were tight.


I didn't run a magnet in the oil. I drained it through a auto paint strainer with very fine mesh placed inside a funnel to capture any metal if there was some. No metal at all. I made sure to inspect the lower when I opened it up. No metal at all.


Thanks for the diagram. Once I clean the gasket, I'll be sure to look.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Dis tno set?


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

I take it these are the matching numbers corresponding to the oversized piston.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

haem.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

The only other thing I can think of is there is some slight play when I slide the crankshaft into the bushing which is in the cover ?
I don't how much play is acceptable, or what the tolerances should be ?
According to the Partstree parts diagram #71, this bushing should be replaceable, but it seems like the seal #75 is part of the cover which is unavailable.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

jtclays said:


> Did you pull the valves to look at the seats like 351beno suggested yet?



Yes, I just pulled the valves. From what I can see, the seats are OK. I'm soaking them so I can remove some of the carbon to get a better look.


The valve clearance is within spec. if the clearance is correct at .008 for the intake and .012 for the exhaust. That's what I was able to find online.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

Both sides are the same on the journal. It was just the angle of the camera.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

jtclays said:


> That would be them.



Thanks JT.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I can't find a specification for an HMSK105.. however the HMSK100 (10hp) & HMSK110 (11hp) are as follows:

the crankshaft spec at the PTO bearing is (min to max) 1.3745 to 1.3750" (same dimension for the flywheel side).

the cylinder cover / flange main bearing diameter spec (min to max) is 1.3765 to 1.3770".

those seals are all over ebay... look for PN 35319 (per barretts small engine). I'm not sure why it's omitted from partstree & jackssmallengines.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

classiccat said:


> I can't find a specification for an HMSK105.. however the HMSK100 (10hp) & HMSK110 (11hp) are as follows:
> 
> the crankshaft spec at the PTO bearing is (min to max) 1.3745 to 1.3750" (same dimension for the flywheel side).
> 
> ...



Thanks for taking the time to find the specs. and the part number. I appreciate all your help.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

I looked online trying to find the service manual for the HMSK105 engine. I'm not finding anything specific. Is there one ? I would really like to have it before I put everything back together in the next week or two. I'm sure there's specific torque values for the connecting rod and head bolts as well as the cover.
Thanks


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I'm pretty sure it would be covered by the Tecumseh 4-stroke service manual, which applied to a lot of engines. Just make sure that the manual you find covers the flathead engines, like this one. 

There may be a link to it somewhere on this forum, or Googling it may find it.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

777


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

I should have all my parts towards the end of next week.
I would like to know if I should use Permatex 80697 copper spray-A-gasket to both sides of the head gasket ?
Permatex 82180 Ultra black for the cover gasket ?
Any flavor of thread locker ? Loctite red, Loctite 243 blue oil resistant ? for the connecting rod bolts


I'm curious if any of you folks use them when re-assembling.


Thanks


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> I'm pretty sure it would be covered by the Tecumseh 4-stroke service manual, which applied to a lot of engines. Just make sure that the manual you find covers the flathead engines, like this one.
> 
> There may be a link to it somewhere on this forum, or Googling it may find it.



Thanks


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

jtclays said:


> As RedOctobyr mentioned it is in the repair forum sticky. I haven't found the 105 either, kinda strange. Member Grunt hopefully will see this and comment. Grunt knows his Tec's.:grin:
> http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf





Thanks


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

147


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I've used Cu permatex spray on the head gasket in the past but I'm not sure it's necessary. I've actually stopped using it on more recent builds and I still get great compression. I guess it's supposed to help with thermal conduction & uniform expansion/contraction of the head.

I do spray my head bolts sparingly with the Cu spray though...i wouldn't go heavy with this since I'd worry about it effecting the head-bolt torque (200in-lbs...NOT FOOT POUNDS!)

I use outboard gasket sealing compound sump cover gasket. I call it "gorilla snot"; Evinrude gaskset sealing compound or Quicksilver Perfect Seal. Both surfaces must be clean and you need to avoid contaminating it with oil.

I personally don't use loctite on the sump cover or connecting rod bolts; i'm sure there are plenty of forum debates about that. 

Generally speaking, I use permatex assembly lube on most of the parts as I put them together...especially the cam/crank gear,crank pin, wrist pin and bearings.

Order of assembly:
- Insert the crankshaft
- connecting-rod to piston with the wrist pin (I assume your didn't remove your rings)
- insert the oiled-up piston/rod into the cylinder from the top; I use a ring compressor but there are work-arounds
--> make sure your ring gaps are spaced about 120-degrees apart!
- connect the connecting rod and crankshaft (_pay attention to the oil dipper and oiling holes_) and torque to spec. 
- Put some plastic wrap on the top of the block and flip it on a clean surface
- install your lifters (_it's good practice to keep your exh lifter/valve and intake lifter/valve together_)...I lube these with moly
- install the camshaft...don't forget to line-up the timing marks
- clean the cylinder cover and block surfaces with a solvent (i use acetone)
- place the sump cover gasket in place
- carefully install the cylinder cover (may have to slightly twist the crank for the cam/governor gears to mesh) and torque to spec.
--> make sure the crankshaft is clean and free from any raised metal...this will tear-up your seal.
- Prior to installing the head / valve cover, I strongly recommend you lap your valves and set the valve clearance (aka lash). I always set my clearance near the upper end of the spec before lapping; lapping will cause the gap to close a bit on ya. 
- place your head gasket and head and torque to spec.
- install your ignition, flywheel, carb, muffler, fuel tank and let it rip!

The sump and head bolts get retorqued after a few heating/cooling cycles.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

classiccat said:


> I've used Cu permatex spray on the head gasket in the past but I'm not sure it's necessary. I've actually stopped using it on more recent builds and I still get great compression. I guess it's supposed to help with thermal conduction & uniform expansion/contraction of the head.
> 
> I do spray my head bolts sparingly with the Cu spray though...i wouldn't go heavy with this since I'd worry about it effecting the head-bolt torque (200in-lbs...NOT FOOT POUNDS!)
> 
> ...





Sounds pretty much straightforward. Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

Classiccat,
I found a small engine shop about 45 minutes away from me. He is going to lap the valves, set the lash, and slightly hone the cylinder for me while I wait. He wanted me to drop it off, and I said no. I told him I started this project and want to finish it. He liked that I had the interest in seeing this through.


He has a valve grinder. It will be less than an hour job at $45 per hour. It's a no brainer for me. I don't have to buy the lapping tool,compound, and hone. I don't really have a good way of getting the ends of the valve perfectly straight to set the correct gap.
I've seen a few people on Youtube using a grinding wheel on the valves. I really don't like that idea, and I don't think I can get them perfectly flat and in spec. with a grinder.
I went through all of this, and want to give the good old Tecumseh a fair shot of running for another 15 years. (Maybe ???? )


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

The Tecumseh is back up and running. Cleaned everything up. Replaced all the gaskets, both oil seals, lapped valves, set clearance, etc.
Starts and runs like it has in the past.
Thanks to all for the help. I appreciate it. I guess it was just the carbon build-up that was causing the problem ?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

mtblade said:


> I guess it was just the carbon build-up that was causing the problem ?


If that helps you sleep at night then sure...carbon :grin::grin::grin:

If we're speculating, my 1st guess is that it was a rich carb setting & perhaps the rate that you went from idle to high speed. The engine can't get out of its own way, missing with the throttle @ WOT trying to dump-in even more fuel. 

2nd guess would be something got inside the flywheel/shroud.

Regardless, glad you got it running...and learned alot about your engine in the process!! 

Thank you for checking-back in!


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

mtblade said:


> The Tecumseh is back up and running. Cleaned everything up. Replaced all the gaskets, both oil seals, lapped valves, set clearance, etc.
> Starts and runs like it has in the past.
> Thanks to all for the help. I appreciate it. I guess it was just the carbon build-up that was causing the problem ?


I'm glad you got it running, and took the time to rebuild it right! It seems like there are some here who want to solve every engine problem by downgrading to a craptastic Chinese part . . . You know, the same folks who likely wouldn't touch a Chinese built machine with a ten foot pole . . . 

Sure, Chinese parts may work *NOW*, but with the typical crap quality, how many times will you need to replace that unsupportable part to get the same lifetime a good quality rebuilt engine will give you? Myself, I think the Chinese solution likely costs more in the long run . . .


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

classiccat said:


> If that helps you sleep at night then sure...carbon :grin::grin::grin:
> 
> If we're speculating, my 1st guess is that it was a rich carb setting & perhaps the rate that you went from idle to high speed. The engine can't get out of its own way, missing with the throttle @ WOT trying to dump-in even more fuel.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks. Yes, glad I got it running.
Nothing for sure inside the flywheel/shroud. Not a stitch of anything found anywhere, not even a spider web. Also, sits inside my garage all year when not using it which is mice/other rodent free. I have mouse traps set in every corner. Haven't killed a mouse in over 10 years since I had the entire garage spray-foamed.

Separate choke and throttle lever on this motor. I just take the throttle a little above idle, then start it. Let it warm up for a minute or so, then gradually increase the throttle to full. I've never gone full throttle from the start with any of my OPE, which is now at 8.

Thanks again.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

tadawson said:


> I'm glad you got it running, and took the time to rebuild it right! It seems like there are some here who want to solve every engine problem by downgrading to a craptastic Chinese part . . . You know, the same folks who likely wouldn't touch a Chinese build machine with a ten foot pole . . .
> 
> Sure, Chinese parts may work *NOW*, but with the typical crap quality, how many times will you needto replace that unsupportable part to get the same lifetime a good quality rebuilt engine will give you? Myself, I think the Chinese solution likely costs more in the long run . . .


Thanks. I'm glad I'm able to still run the tec. 10.5 That's a pretty good beast of an engine. Outside of being on the loud side, It pushed the 29" blower real well throwing snow 40 feet or so. I've cleared some pretty massive 3 foot snowfalls over the years. One of the worst was in March, 2017. 38 inches hit my area of NY in 2 days.


I was considering the 301cc HF Predator if I couldn't get the Tec. to run right. I looked at the 420cc as well, but, I think it would have been too big for the frame.


Thanks.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

tadawson said:


> I'm glad you got it running, and took the time to rebuild it right! It seems like there are some here who want to solve every engine problem by downgrading to a craptastic Chinese part . . . You know, the same folks who likely wouldn't touch a Chinese build machine with a ten foot pole . . .
> 
> Sure, Chinese parts may work *NOW*, but with the typical crap quality, how many times will you needto replace that unsupportable part to get the same lifetime a good quality rebuilt engine will give you? Myself, I think the Chinese solution likely costs more in the long run . . .


HaHa....a Chinese engine will live at 5000 RPM and has ball bearings on the crank and a real connecting rod.. a Tecumsapart will self distruct at anything over 3600 RPM's never mind the advantage of overhead valves over a flat head. It's like comparing a Boss 302 to a Ford Flathead. I'll keep the Tecumsehs ticking as long as it is feasible but have the Chondra ready to transplant! BTW I have an ST824 with a 15 year old Chondra that I totally over rev and mistreat...she loves it....The Tecumseh it replaced..not so much....


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I have a Tecumseh OHV. I'd like to increase my impeller & auger RPMs. But sadly, I'd probably have to go with changing engine pulleys, given the RPM limits on Tecumsehs. It would be a lot easier and cheaper to just adjust the governor screw, and raise the RPMs from 3600 to 4000, etc. But I don't want to blow the engine.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

cranman said:


> HaHa....a Chinese engine will live at 5000 RPM and has ball bearings on the crank and a real connecting rod.. a Tecumsapart will self distruct at anything over 3600 RPM's never mind the advantage of overhead valves over a flat head. It's like comparing a Boss 302 to a Ford Flathead. I'll keep the Tecumsehs ticking as long as it is feasible but have the Chondra ready to transplant! BTW I have an ST824 with a 15 year old Chondra that I totally over rev and mistreat...she loves it....The Tecumseh it replaced..not so much....


I have a Tecumseh that is 38 years old, running like new. Show me a Chinese turd that can do that . . .

And BFHD on 5000 RPM . . . blowers are not designed for that, so that point is irrelevant. If you want a Honda engine, buy Honda! Don't fund intellectual property theft!


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Honda $450....Predator $99 ...let me think about it......Hmmmm...I've been using Hondas ...and Chinese Hondas...on my Cranberry farm since 1998.....I don't see a difference between them in quality or longevity. I have Chondras I've been beating the **** out of...for 20 years...never a failure....and guess what....blowers work great at over 3600 RPM...if you weren't running a Tec.....you would know. FWIW....My ST824 with a 15 year old WEN (the first generation Chondra that HF sold at the turn of the century) has more power and reliability then the Tec it replaced.....you want a rush???? turn up the RPM's on your blower and see how far you can throw the white stuff...oh wait...you have a Tec.....never mind......


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

tadawson said:


> I have a Tecumseh that is 38 years old, running like new. Show me a Chinese turd that can do that . . .
> 
> And BFHD on 5000 RPM . . . blowers are not designed for that, so that point is irrelevant. If you want a Honda engine, buy Honda! Don't fund intellectual property theft!


and for your information.....I have working equipment with 50 year old Briggs and Tecumsehs as well. They are great...museum pieces....love em all.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

cranman said:


> Honda $450....Predator $99 ...let me think about it......Hmmmm...I've been using Hondas ...and Chinese Hondas...on my Cranberry farm since 1998.....I don't see a difference between them in quality or longevity. I have Chondras I've been beating the **** out of...for 20 years...never a failure....and guess what....blowers work great at over 3600 RPM...if you weren't running a Tec.....you would know. FWIW....My ST824 with a 15 year old WEN (the first generation Chondra that HF sold at the turn of the century) has more power and reliability then the Tec it replaced.....you want a rush???? turn up the RPM's on your blower and see how far you can throw the white stuff...oh wait...you have a Tec.....never mind......


No, I wouldn't "know", in that I rarely run full throttle anyhow . . . unless I want to bury my neighbors drive (and frankly, even were it not there, I still wouldn't have a need . . . more RPM typically results in more blown back in my face . . .). To each thier own . . . I will *NOT* support criminal enterprise no matter how cheap . . . Oh, and thee nasty little detail that no Predator I have found is rated for more than about 3600 RPM, and that the only one for $99 is 3 HP . . . . an 8 HP is $239 . . . . Not to mention no mention of any availability of electric start . . . And parts availability? Who knows . . . but Chinese products have historically been pretty bad in that regard . . .
n there is th
Not to mention that even of it works at higher RPM, how much more stress are you putting on the blower? No thanks, I'll pass on that as well . . . . this isn't "Tool Time", and "More Power" is not magically better . . .

Oh, and you can't see crap metallurgy and/or materials . . .


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