# Bolens 1032?



## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Hey everyone I'm a new member here and hoping to get some info..I just picked up a Bolens 10hp 32" that I think it is from the 90's? I was wondering if anyone knew anything about these and if it is a good machine worth keeping..my have to put alittle money into it and tlc..do they perform ok?It says Easy-trac on it..could anyone tell me what that is?Thank you


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Welcome, Gasser.

I have a similar unit from the same vintage with the same paint scheme but mine is 8hp with a 24" bucket. I just picked it up 2 weekends ago as a non-runner because the price was right. I got it to run after I installed a rebuilt carb that I had lying around, but the control panel has stress crack and the unit is very rusty.

I think it's of decent quality with a cast iron gearbox.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Gasser :welcome:

I'm a believer in bigger is better and I like your Bolens.
As long as you can get parts and you can physically handle it I would surely keep it. Looks like you take care of it and that helps with it being reliable.

I would make sure both augers are free on the shafts and that you have the proper shear pins on it as it might be hard finding a gear box should the unexpected happen.
If you haven't yet, might want to do an impeller kit on it really helps the older ones with the slush.


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## lee h (Jan 18, 2015)

Very nice snowblower. I picked up the same 
snowblow a few weeks ago but mine i believe 
is an older model. Here are a few picks.
If you ever feel the need to sell please send me
a PM.

Lee


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*ALOHA from the paradise city.*


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Thank you everyone for your info..Lee that's a real nice find it looks real clean


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Has anyone ever changed the axle bushings on one of these?they are going to need replacement and the replacements apear to be nylon...is there a different option I can use instead besides nylon?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Gasser, I found this owners manual. 
http://dl.owneriq.net/5/5ac0dc6e-227c-1674-5d64-6608ce2a57ad.pdf
Not a lot of technical info, but guessing the "EZ-Trac" you asked about has something to do with the right wheel washer setup listed on page 20 of the PDF form, or actual page 18 of the typed manual. They refer to it as "slip differential". I'd read that first before you pull any wheels as it looks like they set that wheel with two nuts.
As far as axle bushings or bearings, I'd make sure you can get the wheels off first. Snap a couple pictures of the axle housing area and someone will have a suggestion. Sometimes they put the bearing/bushing fittings inside the tractor body. If your gears are fixed on the shaft, that can be a PIA to replace because you basically have to remove everything inside there just to get the wheel drive axle out to slip on new bearings. Member HCBPH has a sticky describing modifications to go from bushings to bearing here
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ance-forum/570-plastic-bushings-bearings.html


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Thank you for all that info it was a big help..they look like they come out from the inside..here are some pictures


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Nice and clean in there. Chains look like they were cared for and you have a differential. So much easier making turns !!
Is the friction wheel starting to shred or is it water on that right side edge ??

From the parts drawing I was looking at taking that axle out might be as easy as driving out the roll pin by the bushing and another near the differential and the axle will slide out.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

that's like reverse image of my old JD 826 differential setup, friction wheel mount is a little different, but the rest is same. Frog is correct, you need to drive those pins out on the shaft. There is an axle inside that shaft that extends all the way across. If you remove the left pin, and the nuts and washers on the right wheel, the entire left wheel hub assembly should pull out with the inner axle attached. Careful as the differential will want to fall down if it's not all rusted up inside. If I remember correctly there is a thin washer hiding in your 3rd pic on the side of the differential sprocket.
Here's the JD setup, look familiar


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Thank you guys..looks very familiar...so I don't need to take the differential apart to remove?if I just remove the two pins it will slide out?is there any reason to open the differential to check it or should I just leave it alone?does your john Deere have the ajustment on the right wheel also for the easy trac?Thanks


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Frog it looks like the friction wheel is starting to shred I think I'm going to have to replace that if I could find one


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

It "should" slide out, barring any rusted hubs or the inside of the diff being rusted shut. You should be able to see if the differential is working by driving it around. If the right side wheel nut is tightened it should lock both wheels and be hard to turn, if you loosen the nuts, only one side will drive and be easy to turn. On the JD left wheel they accomplish the friction setup with a large wing nut plate.
As I read it in the manual from Bolens, they use wave type washers to accomplish the friction setup on your right wheel. Hopefully the previous owner kept stuff lubed and the washers are there. There really is nothing too loose in the differential if you split the case to see how the grease is in there, no spring loaded pins or check valves to worry about. There wasn't even a gasket as I remember. if it ain't broke, don't mess with it, IMO.


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Sounds good thank you


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Gasser said:


> Frog it looks like the friction wheel is starting to shred I think I'm going to have to replace that if I could find one


Have you looked up a part number yet ?? If so post it and we can look around. It's likely a common part number used on a number of machines.

I understand and follow the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" line of thought for a lot of things but I also believe in being proactive and doing maintenance rather than waiting for something to break. If there isn't anything that's going to spring out at you I'd open up the differential to see how it looks and maybe pack a little grease in there to keep it from looking like the above JD's diff.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I tried looking around for part number list. Don't know if this is the correct year, but looks similar.
Friction disc part #1720859. Schematic call out #70
Looks like this one will work, same aftermarket model as the old Ariens 3003 disc replacement. Found here:
http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Streak-00300300-00170800-1720859/dp/B00D9TFBNU
Bolens illustrated parts list


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Lots of sources for it if that's the one.

https://www.google.com/#q=1720859

If you're near an Oreilly they can order it in for you, less than $12 and 1y warranty !!

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=7-04211


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Gasser, can you measure the diameter of the axle? I wonder if it's 7/8" (.875"). If it is, the nylon bushing part number is probably 1739471

it might be possible to use bronze bushings with that same ID if you were to make the hole for the bushing circular and then use a bushing carrier of some sort


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Thanks everyone..I'll mearsure the axle..bronze would be great I'm surprised they didn't use that to begin with


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

I'm pretty sure it's (.875").


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## sidegrinder (Apr 18, 2015)

Ive got some assorted Bolens parts on hand, mostly from the 524, 724 and 824's. If you cant find something, drop me a line and I'll take a look.


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Awesome thank you very much I appreciate it


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

jtclays...did you have to remove the pin in the picture to remove the axle?i did what you said and everything want smooth till I went to slide the axle out and that pin that sticks up is hitting the washer and not letting it go through the frame hole?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

yes, I took both pins out, I re read my previous post and I wasn't clear enough there.
Are the old axle bushings bronze or the nylon ones you thought?


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## Koenig041 (Dec 18, 2013)

lee h said:


> Very nice snowblower. I picked up the same
> snowblow a few weeks ago but mine i believe
> is an older model. Here are a few picks.
> If you ever feel the need to sell please send me
> ...


Hey, nice machine, how long is your drive? Is this the only machine you use to clear the driveway?
Thanks


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Jtclays..they are nylon I think I might try to match them up with bronze if that will work..I wasn't sure if that pin in the picture was suppose to come out being that it wasn't a roll pin like the other one in the axle and it wasn't really moving when I was trying to knock it out so I just wanted to make sure it was suppose to come out before I messed anything up


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Gasser, I had good luck getting most of the round flanged bushing at my local hardware. They were very close on price to online some more, some less, but I got them in hand. On my Ariens project, the axle ones needed to be cut down and dress the cut edge with file. Looks like you are getting to yours in a timely manner. I've seen some that let them go at the axle until the axle eats out the top of bushing and even through the bracket.


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

What did you use to remove this pin?did you have to heat it up at all?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

As I look at your picture, it appears to have a cross pin in it? Mine was just a standard roll pin that tapped out with a punch. I worked on another JD726 that had a bolt. Can you go left and clear the right side axle out and then pull the entire unit out to the right, or is that too much angle to clear the left housing hole?


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## lee h (Jan 18, 2015)

Koenig041 said:


> Hey, nice machine, how long is your drive? Is this the only machine you use to clear the driveway?
> Thanks


 
I just bought this Bolens a few weeks ago so no
i haven't tried it out yet. I now have 4 running 
32 inch 10HP Tec. Snowblowers. Kinda got hooked
on the 32 incher's. I have a decent size circular 
driveway. 


Lee


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## lee h (Jan 18, 2015)

Gasser said:


> Thank you everyone for your info..Lee that's a real nice find it looks real clean


 

Thanks and good luck on yours.



Lee


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## Gasser (Sep 9, 2015)

Jtclays.. Did this axle pin come right out for you just by hitting it...mine is giving me a hard time


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## Bolens93 (Nov 24, 2015)

Gasser said:


> Hey everyone I'm a new member here and hoping to get some info..I just picked up a Bolens 10hp 32" that I think it is from the 90's? I was wondering if anyone knew anything about these and if it is a good machine worth keeping..my have to put alittle money into it and tlc..do they perform ok?It says Easy-trac on it..could anyone tell me what that is?Thank you


Those are awful unreliable machines and you should not keep it, you should sell it immediately and buy something newer.

SELL IT TO ME HAHAHA


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

Couple of suggestions if Gasser is still deciding what to do with this machine. First, clean and grease the wheel differential along with adding a zerk fitting. Next, the nylon wheel bearings........if worn... just flip them so that the bottom of the bearings becomes the top.

I have the 32" version of this machine and know it limitations. 

Another suggestion is to be SURE to open the lubrication access port on the front gear box that turns the augurs. I had to completely rebuild mine because I never checked it until it was too late. I doubt it was ever lubricated prior to failure.

And a hint! The inner 1/2" cold rolled steel shaft fractured twice on my machine. The first time the fracture was around the holding pin in the left axial. This fracture caused the right wheel/axial to pull out of the machine. I klugged a fix to prevent that from happening. The next shaft failure happened right at the end of the left axial, inside the spider gears. The 1/2" shaft keeps the assembly together and the last fracture caused the right wheel to tilt inward at the top by about 15-20 degrees.

I replace the cold rolled steel with 1/2" 303 stainless steel but I COULD NOT GET THE BROKEN PIECES OUT OF THE LEFT AXIAL. So I ended up placing the left axial into my lathe and I bored a new 1/2" hole into it and in so doing removed the broken pieces.

Another comment pertaining to the cold rolled steel.....and I suggest others do a Google on this comment...... cold rolled steel is subject to fracturing as its temperature goes below freezing. And of course nobody blows snow in warm weather.

I mentioned some of the above in the Ariens section of teh forum. I purchased mine new for the winter of 1986 so I have no bitches about its performance. However I am tired of working on it and this is the last winter it will rest in my garage. Next year I plan to purchase a new Ariens, 32" with the bells and whatnots in the price range of $3K. My Bolen came with a protective enclosure....I will move that to the new machine.. and I remember it cost around $1300-1400. So spending $3k or so after 30 years of inflation is really no more that the Bolens cost when new.

Now of course, if somebody manufactures and markets a better mouse trap between now and late spring/early summer I certainly would at least look at it.

Foggy


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