# 0W/30 or 5W/30 synthetic in new Toro 826 HD OXE



## laptopquestions

Hi,

I just bought a new Power Max HD 826 OXE which recommends SAE 0W/30 synthetic oil (38913), which is different than the traditional B&S SAE 5W30 snowthrower rated oil I have been using in my 1988 Toro 824 and 2011 Troy-Bilt 2620. 

At least from the Toro charts, the Synthetic 5W-30 is rated above 104 degrees F and below -22 degrees F, but was wondering if anyone knew if the Toro HDs really benefited. On the face of it, as long as I stay with a synthetic I should be fine.

Given that I am in New England and, does anyone have a recommendation one way or another with this engine, particularly given that SAE 5W/30 synthetic is much more available? It would also simplify maintenance by allowing me to standardize on one oil type. 

Thanks!


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## uberT

I'd probably run their recommend oil while the unit is under warranty.

Welcome aboard, Laptops!!


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## laptopquestions

uberT said:


> I'd probably run their recommend oil while the unit is under warranty.
> 
> Welcome aboard, Laptops!!


I separately sent Toro an email specifically asking this question. It will be interesting to see what they say 

In the meantime, certainly appreciate the feedback and thanks for the welcome!


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to the forum :white^_^arial^_^0^_

Except for the warranty consideration it's why I switched to Mobil 1 0-40
Works great in almost everything. I get it at Walmart.


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## nwcove

laptopquestions said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just bought a new Power Max HD 826 OXE which recommends SAE 0W/30 synthetic oil (38913), which is different than the traditional B&S SAE 5W30 snowthrower rated oil I have been using in my 1988 Toro 824 and 2011 Troy-Bilt 2620.
> 
> At least from the Toro charts, the Synthetic 5W-30 is rated above 104 degrees F and below -22 degrees F, but was wondering if anyone knew if the Toro HDs really benefited. On the face of it, as long as I stay with a synthetic I should be fine.
> 
> Given that I am in New England and, does anyone have a recommendation one way or another with this engine, particularly given that SAE 5W/30 synthetic is much more available? It would also simplify maintenance by allowing me to standardize on one oil type.
> 
> Thanks!


thats interesting as i thought it was a big " no no" to run a new engine with synthetic oil until after its recommended break in period ( first oil change) ???? or did the unit come with dino oil in the sump and you are thinking ahead?


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## YSHSfan

After break in, I would run Mobil 1 0W30 in it.

Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qt. - Walmart.com


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## Cardo111

I would try to use the 0W-30 if that is what Toro recommends for the Loncin engine. However the difference between the two is not much, either one in a synthetic should work fine. I would not be concerned about a synthetic 5W-30 being too thick for any conditions you may encounter. If you can get a Toro tech rep on the phone I assume they will advise you that you can go with either one.


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## laptopquestions

nwcove said:


> thats interesting as i thought it was a big " no no" to run a new engine with synthetic oil until after its recommended break in period ( first oil change) ???? or did the unit come with dino oil in the sump and you are thinking ahead?


Have no idea, but I will ping the dealer tomorrow to find out what they used in the initial setup.

The whole thing that got me started questioning things in the first place:

Power Max® HD 826 OXE (38805)

Manuals -> Parts Catalog
Operators Manual (3396-745.pdf) - Page 46

Attachments and Accessories
For 38805 Power Max Heavy Duty 826 OXE Snowthrower
Product Name Model/Part

Weight Kit ......................................107-3815
26in Drift Breaker...............................107-3816
Heavy-Duty Skid Kit..............................125-1104
Snow Cab Kit ....................................127-5960
Non-Marking Skid Kit ............................38211
Tire Chain Kit, for 16in Tires...................38215
*Toro Snow Oil 0W30 Synthetic 20-Ounce Bottle ....38913*
Toro 2-Stage Cover...............................490-7466
Plain 2-Stage Cover..............................490-7467


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## mobiledynamics

I've always run Rotella or M1 EP after the break in period.


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## 43128

honestly i would run royal purple 5w30 after break in


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## UNDERTAKER

After break in run 10/30 syn stuff of your chosen brand.k:k:k:k:k:


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## laptopquestions

*[From Toro] Recommended oil for Power Max HD 826 OXE snowthrower*

For those who may care, here was Toro's official response:

_Thank you for contacting The Toro Company. Thank you for your request for oil type on your product. 

*Upon further checking the correct oil type for your Toro Power Max Heavy Duty 826 OXE snowthrower is 24 oz. 5w-30 or 10w/API SH or higher. You are able to use the synthetic 5w-30 on your machine if you stay with synthetic, you cannot switch back to regular oil.* Please refer to your Owner's Manual for more information.

In addition, other specifications and product information can be found on-line at www.toro.com , through an Authorized Service Dealer, or in your owner’s manual. To ensure you obtain the correct specification, please have your model and serial number available.

We appreciate the opportunity to assist you. If you have any further questions, feel free to contact us at 888-384-9939. 


_


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## Cardo111

laptopquestions said:


> For those who may care, here was Toro's official response:
> 
> _Thank you for contacting The Toro Company. Thank you for your request for oil type on your product.
> 
> *Upon further checking the correct oil type for your Toro Power Max Heavy Duty 826 OXE snowthrower is 24 oz. 5w-30 or 10w/API SH or higher. You are able to use the synthetic 5w-30 on your machine if you stay with synthetic, you cannot switch back to regular oil.* Please refer to your Owner's Manual for more information.
> 
> In addition, other specifications and product information can be found on-line at www.toro.com , through an Authorized Service Dealer, or in your owner’s manual. To ensure you obtain the correct specification, please have your model and serial number available.
> 
> We appreciate the opportunity to assist you. If you have any further questions, feel free to contact us at 888-384-9939.
> 
> 
> _


Thanks for posting their response, it is kinda what I expected.


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## UNDERTAKER

I do not get the part about not going back once you have crossed over to the dark side.:question: I do it sometimes on the lawnmower and SR.mg::emoticon-south-park


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## Zavie

Yeah, thanks for posting the response. Toro's answer does make sense because on the Toro supplies fixture at Home Depot they have the Toro 5w-30 snowblower oil on it. Toro part #38910.


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## rlb

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> I do not get the part about not going back once you have crossed over to the dark side.:question: I do it sometimes on the lawnmower and SR.mg::emoticon-south-park



I'm curious about this also. Why would it matter switching between the two?


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## 43128

in my experience engines will wear differently with the two types of oil


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## Cardo111

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> I do not get the part about not going back once you have crossed over to the dark side.:question: I do it sometimes on the lawnmower and SR.mg::emoticon-south-park


Hahaha...I always thought the old wives tale was the opposite. If you wait too long before switching to synthetic you will get leaks when switching to synthetic because the crude oil is thicker or does not flow as well. Kinda makes sense, but this Toro response about don't go back to crude has me scratching my head.


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## laptopquestions

Briggs and Stratton seem to have a different spin....

Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil: What Do I Use in My Small 4-Cycle Engine?

_*“Should I use synthetic or conventional (regular) oil in my 4-Cycle Briggs & Stratton Engine?*_
Our engines are designed to run on conventional oil, full synthetic, or synthetic blends. It’s an owner’s personal decision if the extra cost is worth the additional benefits synthetic oils offer. When a customer calls the Answer Center, we recommend the synthetic as it offers the premium protections we talked about earlier.


_*“Can I switch to a synthetic oil if I’ve always used conventional (regular) oil?”*_
There’s no reason you can’t switch to a synthetic oil if you’ve used conventional oil in the past. You do not need to flush your engine, or worry about the two mixing. The same goes for switching from synthetic to conventional.


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## pdesjr

It doesn't make a hill of beans difference if you switch back and forth as long as you change it regularly.But the synthetic oil likes the cold much better.My father was a Mobil dealer for 20 yrs. And when Mobil 1 synthetic came out they demonstrated to all the dealers how it flowed through the engine in the cold. It was way better than dyno oil.I have used synthetic oil ever since and think the difference in the cost is well worth it . I use it in my cars,motorcycles and equipment.And have never had an oil related failure.


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## SnowG

The difference between 0-30 and 5-30 is the 0-30 is thinner (and flows better) at startup. 0-30 is capable of providing better flow and better lubrication when the engine is cold.  They're both the same once the engine is at normal operating temperature.


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## Slinger

I spoke to an engineer at LCT engines who said that these new small OHV engines can use synthetic right from the get-go because unlike automotive applications, the valve springs have relatively low force and don't require break-in with a high-zinc dino oil before going to synthetic.
I know there are tests in unbelievably extreme conditions that show cheaper oils to become thick compared to premium brands but unless you live where it's regularly 40 below and you keep your equipment outside it's probably never going to be a problem. I've run cheap synthetic in all my small engines for years and never had an issue. At the end of a season my oil still looks almost clean and my engines have great compression. That's in both snow and lawn equipment. I believe that for small engines, the proper viscosity cheap synthetic is all that's required, if you feel the need to upgrade from conventional.


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## automojo

If you look at the service manual-it recommends 0w30 below 0 deg F, and 5w30 above.
At operating temps-they are essentially both 30 weight.
The reasoning in using the thicker oil I imagine has to do with oil consumption, and during the period the oil and engine are warming up, you can get's some oil consumption, especially with synthetic due to the size of the molecules.
The info about using synthetic during break end only applies in the manufacture specifies it.
Most oils made for automotive use-have fairly low zinc content-even the new diesel oils have gone down.
How the additive package works as a whole is more important then specific ingredients.
I know Kawasaki engines used in JD tractors use to recommend using conventional oil-not synthetic-not just for break in-but for continued use.
Oil that's synthetic doesn't always guarantee it's a better oil then conventional.
The best way to guarantee warranty consideration on the engine, is to buy the stock oil from the dealer-and keep your receipt.
The have 0w30 and 5w30 available.
With my JD lawn tractor I always buy the service kits-saves time and you have a record in case a engine problem arises-their will be no question.
By the way-great buy-I'm sure you will enjoy it!


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## joed

I have a 2010 Toro 826 OXE HD snowblower with a 250 cc engine. I used regular oil for the first 20 hours or so but since then, I switched over to Briggs and Stratton's 5W30 synthetic oil. I've noticed that the unit starts easier with synthetic and runs more smoothly. On the other hand, I also noticed that when doing oil changes, the oil is quite a bit darker than the regular oil was upon changing the oil.


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## Yammie leaf

I have a 2011 Toro 826 oxe. I ran castrol 5w30 syntec in it. No issues until I was doing my fall tuneup and all the oil leaked out. Twice. Took it to the dealer 4 weeks ago and they discovered a crack in the engine block. Of course the warranty ran out last year. A new motor installed is aprox $800. Forget it. I'm buying something new and different tomorrow. I love the look of the Yamaha YT624aj. Pricey but hopefully a much better motor than what's in my Toro. **** luck I guess!


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## Loco-diablo

Yammie leaf said:


> I have a 2011 Toro 826 oxe. I ran castrol 5w30 syntec in it. No issues until I was doing my fall tuneup and all the oil leaked out. Twice. Took it to the dealer 4 weeks ago and they discovered a crack in the engine block. Of course the warranty ran out last year. A new motor installed is aprox $800. Forget it. I'm buying something new and different tomorrow. I love the look of the Yamaha YT624aj. Pricey but hopefully a much better motor than what's in my Toro. **** luck I guess!


Wow!.. That stinks! Do you think your choice of oil contributed to the block failure?


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## Yammie leaf

I really don't think so. 5w30 fully synthetic oil, shouldn't crack a block but really who knows? I took very good care of it and it sleeps in my garage. Haha. Must have just picked the lemon of the bunch. Out shopping for a new one today. Last day of Black Friday sales. I'm looking at a Yamaha, Ariens and maybe a Honda wheel version. Not sure what I will come home with? Lol. Wish me luck &#55357;&#56397;


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## Zavie

Yammie leaf said:


> I really don't think so. 5w30 fully synthetic oil, shouldn't crack a block but really who knows? I took very good care of it and it sleeps in my garage. Haha. Must have just picked the lemon of the bunch. Out shopping for a new one today. Last day of Black Friday sales. I'm looking at a Yamaha, Ariens and maybe a Honda wheel version. Not sure what I will come home with? Lol. Wish me luck ��


Good luck Yammie leaf. I can't wait till you show pictures of the new Yamaha that came home with you. (Just my guess) :icon-wwp:


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## cfuller3

The absolute worst synthetic lube is better than the best petroleum non synthetic. Them saying you can't switch back is just their 'mind warped' way of saying to stick with any synthetic. I prefer and use Amsoil in anything that turns and have since early 70's. Is it because I don't understand? Not likely. As far as 5W-30 being the cause of a cracked block..... something came apart. If you can blame that on good lubrication I'd be curious. Of course, that's taking for granted the lubrication was good. Good lubrication causes less friction. The shear strength is usually higher. Heat coefficient is higher. Things like that don't crack blocks.


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## AMSOIL

0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 are all "30 Weight Oils" They have slightly different "Cold Flow" temperatures. Either one will work!

Listed are guides to use for your reference no matter what oil you use.

20W-50 = -0 degrees to +100F 

15W-40 = -10F - +100F 

10W-30 = -20F - +100F 

5W-30 = -30F - +100F

0W-30 = -30F+ - +100F


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## GustoGuy

AMSOIL said:


> 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 are all "30 Weight Oils" They have slightly different "Cold Flow" temperatures. Either one will work!
> 
> Listed are guides to use for your reference no matter what oil you use.
> 
> 20W-50 = -0 degrees to +100F
> 
> 15W-40 = -10F - +100F
> 
> 10W-30 = -20F - +100F
> 
> 5W-30 = -30F - +100F
> 
> 0W-30 = -30F+ - +100F


 I have been using Amsoil oil and ATF and Amsoil EA filters since the late 1980's and I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra with the original engine and transmission with 395000 miles on it and it still runs great. Amsoil is an excellent oil to protect your engines.


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## 140278

PLEASE lets keep this within the posts base subject of oil in a toro and not go in other directions, last post deleted


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