# Tecumseh HMSK 80-110 Blower Housing



## DaveLeonard (Jul 30, 2015)

I can't get the housing off. I removed the (4) bolts and the cover is loose but won't slide off. Do I need to disconnect, remove something else? I need to replace the fuel line.
The unit dies after about 10 minutes. It used to die at 45 min, then 30 min ... now at about 10 min.
I replaced the carburetor. Identical problem still exists. I did a spark test. The spark indicator light remains the same strong red color right up to the engine dieing. If the fuel line replacement does not fix the problem, I will probably change the ignition module unless there is another recommendation from the forum.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Screwdriver and a few taps with hammer will break it apart. Might be rusted together on the bottom. Points/Condenser Systems need Regular Maintenance. May need a Module, Or you may have a chafed wire that's grounding it .


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to SBF Dave. You may have a bad gas cap vent that is causing your problem. Try loosening the gas cap and running the engine to see if that is the cause.

Will the engine start back up immediately after stopping or do you have to wait a certain amount of time?

Do you have an inline gas filter that may be dirty and needs to be replaced?

:white^_^arial^_^0^_


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## DaveLeonard (Jul 30, 2015)

Sorry to all. I test the unit with the fuel cap just barely on to keep fuel from splashing. Not a fuel cap venting issue. This is a newer 80-110 model with no points. I did discover that the headlight wire was chaffed where it exits the Blower Housing however no wire exposure yet. I just read another post where a person had my identical problems caused by a dirty jet on the bottom of the bowl of his brand new carb. I will check the (2) jets tonight (1- the bottom of the bowl and 2- the base of the carb - plastic plug over the jet.) I really do think my problems are fuel delivery related. After the engine dies sometimes it will start back up immediately, sometimes won't start until it cools for a while. The filter is brand new.
So you are sure the Blower Housing is only secured by (4) bolts? I'm telling you that I even used a prybar with firm force and it did not come loose.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Could the starter dogs not be retracted all the way? Is there an electric starter maybe holding something?
Sid


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Dave - Just for clarification, when you say you're having trouble removing the "blower housing" are you talking about the pull start recoil assembly? If so, you have to remove the bolt directly below the recoil assembly (6:00 position). Removing that bolt is a little tricky because there's really no room between the head of the bolt and the bottom of the recoil assemble. Here's what you have to do to remove that bolt. Shut off the fuel supply, tip the machine on it's nose exposing the back and bottom of the machine. Remove the bottom cover/plate exposing the transmission and the bottom of the four engine mount bolts. You need to loosen the four engine mount bolts. You don't need to pull them off, just loosen them about half way. Once all four bolts are loose, the engine will slide forward about a 1/2" giving you access to remove that tricky bolt below the recoil assembly. Once that bolt is out, the recoil housing will slide right off.


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## DaveLeonard (Jul 30, 2015)

The Electric Starter and Fuel Tank are removed. I don't want to remove the recoil assembly. My understanding is that the blower housing can be removed with the recoil assembly attached.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

If it is a tech flathead I would be taking a close look at the clearance on the exhaust valve.


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

I may be mistaken, but my memory says there are 5 bolts. The 3 on top that also secure the head gasket and 1 on each side situated at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock.


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## VT JD (Feb 11, 2015)

Dave,

If possible, posting a picture of the housing would help with a solution for removal.


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## DaveLeonard (Jul 30, 2015)

I did get the cover to come off. Freezen's advice to tip the machine on it's nose made removal easier. I replaced the ignition, new fuel line, new filter, cleaned the fuel tank with the water hose and dried in the attic, new fuel, fully cleaned the carb including all the little ports and jets. The unit consistently starts right up and runs pretty smoothly but dies after about 7 minutes, then will not restart until hours later. I give up. I have no idea what could be wrong.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

What Carl said, the exhaust valve is likely over tolerance and leaving the valve open, loose compression and fffft.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

The unit consistently starts right up and runs pretty smoothly but dies after about 7 minutes said:


> Try starting and running it with the gas cap loose. Sounds like the cap could have a blocked vent causing a lack of fuel flow. You could also try removing the float bowl immediately after it dies and check for gas in the bowl and good flow through the carb.
> 
> Did you use a business card as a feeler gage to set the gap between the coil and flywheel? Check for spark as soon as the motor dies to eliminate the coil as the problem.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Sounds like an ignition coil but could be due to an exhaust valve being out of tolerance and that would cause it to loose compression when the engine warms up. Is it a dual shaft or single shaft engine? Like Jack said that the old flat heads can get finicky. I myself would look into repowering if it can't be fixed cheaply


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