# AriensPro 36” Hydro - Reviews



## KevinJD325 (Oct 12, 2019)

Ariens Professional Series with Hydrostatic Drive EFI Model #926070". 
Its hydrostatic drive is a Hydro Gear Model #1610-1001.


Anyone have some long term experience with the 36” Hydro Pro? Got mine in April this year and am looking forward to this years snow. So how’s your machine doing?


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## bbwb (Oct 25, 2018)

Hi Kevin:
I have a Pro28 Hydro EFI that purchased last year...so only one winter of experience on it. It will take you a little while to get used to the hydro vs conventional. With my old traction wheel blower, I learned how to keep the auger turning and pop the traction handle in and out as I would creep up on the garage (Ariens handles will lock). What is different is you keep the auger turning, but push or pull the hydro lever to control not only your speed but how far you travel. Not hard to learn, just different.
Robert


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## KevinJD325 (Oct 12, 2019)

Hey there,

I do like the Hydro, infinite speed adjustment is a great option. Makes those close approaches to the garage or house easy to manage.

The power of the Pro machines is nice as I’ll need to move over 100” of snow this year. Also the 36” width should save considerable time over my old Toro 20” CCR2000. That was a good machine, but the Ariens Pro 36” is a monster that should excell!

Back in the day I ran a Ariens 32” 7hp blower to make a few bucks of spending money. My Dad used the same machine for 25+ yrs after I was done with it. That unit probably had 75 yrs of good use on it between my jobs and Dads place. The Ariens was the best. When it came time to buy recently the Ariens was the only choice and the Pro models stood out in the crowd. True they weren’t cheap by any means, but the Pros were built like tanks compared to the rest. Really looking forward to the Pro 36”.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

Mine (Hydro Pro 36) is 3 years old. It's got a carb not FI. It's a fantastic machine. It will blow the snow back where it came from or across the street if you want to. 60' easy with normal snow. But, I think the motor is a little under powered for the size of the bucket. If you have slushy stuff at the end of driveway, I can bog the motor down taking a full bucket so you still need to listen to the engine and control the forward speed to adjust it accordingly. I think the factory light is junk and I added a pair of LED's. I even added a hour meter. I have 30-40 hours on it if I remember correctly. It always starts on 1 pull. Belts are original and no break downs of any kind. I put wheels on the front also. I service it once a year in the early spring (oil grease and a machine wash). It's stored in my garage year round.

The hydro I like but in neutral it's heavy to pull or push. Yes you have that lever to pull but it's still heavy to move.

I'm currently adding orange strobe lights on the bucket as I nearly get run down on my busy crazy road one or twice a year. I'll upload the video when I get all the parts in. I'm adding a battery and battery tray from older Ariens snowblower parts to do the modification. I got to keep it factory looking....


I have a silly youtube channel so browse the channel to see the lights I put on and how I wired it if you decide to add lights later. Here I am cleaning a foot+ of wet snow. It was my first time using it. I went at a fast pace into the plow pile and you can hear the motor bog down. It didn't stall. Strong machine... It was about 2 feet high at the mouth of the driveway because of the plow. It was raining hard when I cleaned the driveway.


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## KevinJD325 (Oct 12, 2019)

Northern MI here. We got 136” last year which put us at about an average year. Most of it falls as pretty light snow with an occasional heavy wet one. Generally 2-4” is the norm, but everyday it snows in Dec- mid Jan till the lakes cool down and the lake effect lessens. We still get those 18-20” blast, mostly toward spring.

Looking forward to testing the Pro 36”. With my experience with the 32”/7hp unit in the past, I got the feeling when buying the Pro 36” that HP wouldn’t be an issue seeing as the 420cc AX engine equates to about 13 hp. Of course the is some ho loss to the hydro drive, but that’s minimal. 

Good to hear your machine easily handled the really heavy wet stuff. Those conditions are the true test of a blowers strength. One of the things I really like is how they put serrated auger blades on the machines these days. Those augers for sure will help with the plowing of the ice chunks, probably saves some clogging as well.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

In the wet stuff there is no clogging issues. It will blow water I guess if it had too. It's really a good machine. I don't add anything to the bucket to make the slush slip off. They give you a brush to clean it out but I never removed it since I owned the machine.
A year ago I had the displeasure of cleaning a pile of snow mixed with rocks some jerk plowed into my mouth of the driveway. There was large tar chunks mixed with the snow.
I went to clean it up and I was sorry to do it. The impeller inside got bent slightly on a blade or two. The machine never broke a belt or shear pin. I scratched all the inside up.
After the storm in the spring I purchased paint and repainted the scratched up areas. To keep it looking good and to keep the rust away.

It's like I never ran over rocks and tar. 

You will be quite happy with your machine.


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## Steve70 (Nov 12, 2018)

I ran a 1236 Ariens for around 28 years. It was a great machine and was working fine the day I sold it last year. It was a bit of a beast to bull around with the locked differential so I rationalized I needed a new easier to handle machine and went with a new 28 Pro rapid trak last year.* I really like the hydro tranny. We had 100 inches of snow before we headed west after New Years.(227" last year...record was 320" in the late 90s) It worked quite well. As a comparison to the old machine for snow chucking....I don't think it has any more ability than the old 1236, but I'm very happy with it. It's like buying a new car with more bells, whistles, and improvements than the old one. I went with the smaller cut because we have no southern exposure at this house and a couple driveway trips produced tire build up. The old 36, with the wider bucket tended to ride up a tad on the tire edge side. This creates more snow to clean given what's underneath edge to edge. The new rapid trak, in dig mode and hydro tranny, will peel up the car tracks if you go very slow. I'm pushing 68 and couldn't be happier with the hydro choice. I really like the OEM hand warmers too.

As a side note, I don't think there's ever been a machine that could take a full bucket of slush more than a few inches deep.


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## KevinJD325 (Oct 12, 2019)

Well, just blew 10-12" of heavy snow this am. The Hydro Pro 36" worked great. I could easily blow the snow over the neighbors garage (well close). The one thing i noticed was that the machine with the throttle up full went through the full gas tank in about 45 min. The machine at times was working at full capacity and the govenor was ratcheting up the power quite a bit. On the next tank of gas I ran the machine on the efficiency setting for the throttle, there is a index for the efficiency setting that is about 1/2 throttle. On this setting the machine worked very well and moved all the snow without issue, just didn't throw quite as far but did a great job. It also went about 40 min using about 1/2 the gas.

As far as the ground speed while working this snow was concerned it really wasn't an issue either at full or efficiency throttle. I basically could go as fast as i wanted but mostly went about half speed on the hydro control. Full reverse speed is a little slow with efficiency throttle compared to full throttle, as can be expected.

The tires had plenty of grip on packed snow and ice even while going up a pretty good slope on the driveway. I even took the machine thru the yard to cut a dog path with no issues regarding tire grip. This machine will also drive up snow piles 5' tall if your interested, again lots of grip from the tires.

As for the engine. Even though the machine had been sitting for three weeks and was in a barn in 10* weather this am it started right up on the first 1/2 pull of the cord. I haven't needed the electric start yet, I'll leave that for the wife.

The Hydro Pro 36" truly is a beast that is easy to operate, efficient, powerful, and a pleasure to operate. My thanks to Ariens!!!


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I never factor in the cost of gas when snowblowing. I do factor in the cost of a bad back or a heart attack. Plus, to run at half throttle to save some gas doesn't seem like a good investment time wise, plus I love to watch the rooster tail when running full throttle. Simple things amuse me !


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

There's more than That to consider with small air cooled engines..... Gas is just the CODB.

Those engines are Air-Cooled, Deigned to run at full throttle to get the maximum air flow - Cooling across the fins.

Most have no oil filter, or pressurized lubrication systems. They're Splash Lubricated... Again, more Lubrication at Fast Idle

And perhaps, more importantly, The drive system, Hydro's, are also designed to run most efficient at Fast idle, as they are 
also air cooled. Although I'm not familiar with the type of Hydro Pump they are using (I'm Sure it's Not the Priciest), 
Some pumps are RPM dependent.... More rpm=More pressure


GLuck, Jay


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## KevinJD325 (Oct 12, 2019)

It's a review! Did I say anything about gas mileage, the cost of gas, or any thing other than it will burn about 1/2 as much using the efficiency setting? Really guys. 

JayzAuto1 to make a statement about a hydro you know nothing about doesn't help anyone here. Not that it matters here, I do have other hydro trans on other types of machines that haven't always run at full throttle and they are still running fine after 20+ yrs. They also have been maintained per the manufactures recommendations, I'll do the same for my 36" Ariens. Thanks.

For the rest of you that read the review, I hope it helps if your searching for a new blower.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

JayzAuto1 said:


> There's more than That to consider with small air cooled engines..... Gas is just the CODB.
> 
> Those engines are Air-Cooled, Deigned to run at full throttle to get the maximum air flow - Cooling across the fins.
> 
> ...


Well, other than the manufacturer and designer of this machine specifically stating that it's fine to run it at part throttle . . . 

More lube at higher speed (It's *NOT* 'fast idle' - idle, by definition is *low* speed . . .) but also more friction due to more motion/velocity . . . it all averages out, and if you look at air flow in the cooling ducts, you will find that younget *less* CFM per RPM at higher velocity - drag is the square of speed . . . 

Basically, neither the physics or the manufacturer support your argument . . .


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

KevinJD325 said:


> Well, just blew 10-12" of heavy snow this am. The Hydro Pro 36" worked great. I could easily blow the snow over the neighbors garage (well close). The one thing i noticed was that the machine with the throttle up full went through the full gas tank in about 45 min. The machine at times was working at full capacity and the govenor was ratcheting up the power quite a bit. On the next tank of gas I ran the machine on the efficiency setting for the throttle, there is a index for the efficiency setting that is about 1/2 throttle. On this setting the machine worked very well and moved all the snow without issue, just didn't throw quite as far but did a great job. It also went about 40 min using about 1/2 the gas.
> 
> This is where I had seen 'Gas Consumption' Mentioned.
> 
> ...


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Tada, I never claimed to be a Phys Ed Perfessor...... I do not know about 'Drags, Squares...... or cannot decipher what 'you will find that younget *less* CFM per RPM at higher velocity' is either. I did a G**gle search, and Alexa doesn't know either. Again, not being any type of 'Teacher' or where to even look for a physics book. Even if I knew what that stuff was, I have no way of 'Testing' it. I went to the manufacture for advice. Both the Ariens and the engine builder (in an Ariens manual) suggest running at Top Speed. See my above response above for verification. 

I am just a dummy that worx on small engines....You are free to read, adhere, or ignore anything I or anyone else has to say on these Boards. Let's face it, most of the people that write in looking for advice are beginners, Tinkering or are stuck. They may or not be up on technical terms, so I attempt to spell out in EZ to understand phrases (Fast Idle), something they will understand and get them out of a jamb, back to blowing snow. I make no attempt to over complicate matters, talk 'Down' to them or in a cynical way. There may or not be comedy in my answers. MY Hippocratic Oath states, "First, Do No Harm To Others OR their Problem Machines" 

And, I still stand by what I said, When working a piece of Equipment, Run it at Full Throttle....... In addition to my reasoning in my first response, Charging Systems rely on Full Throttle..... I Test Charging Systems at Full Throttle. I see many newer machines that have NO throttle control.......It's either Full Throttle.....or OFF

As always, YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY

Look, these boards are full of Opinions..... Please don't take offense to Anything I suggest, Unless of course, I'm working on your Units. I make No assumptions about you, and That should be a 2 way street.


As Always, GLuck, Jay


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## KevinJD325 (Oct 12, 2019)

JayzAuto1:

Thanks, you answered the great debate with this below. 

"But, since it's late and I don't have access to my machines at work, I downloaded the manuals for the Ariens 926070. Page 12 of the owners manual states "For best results, keep throttle at High or Efficiency setting"

Good find, thanks for saving me the trouble finding the page. It does say in the manual though "Efficiency or higher position", just to be correct and not lead any potential buyer astray.

By the way, I never mentioned running the machine in idle. However, I do idle for about 5 min. prior to working the machine and idle again for about 5 min. prior to shutdown. It's all just something I do and it has served me well many years. 

For your amusement and _for the benefit of those reading the review_, the machine that is the subject of this review is a "Ariens Professional Series with Hydrostatic Drive EFI Model #926070". Its hydrostatic drive is a Hydro Gear Model #1610-1001.

Buy an Ariens model# 926070 for yourself and give us an operating review. That's all this thread is about, owners observations, for the benefit of those who might consider buying one or those who have one and wonder how they run over the long term. 

GLuck, or as I like to say "Best to You"
KevinJD325


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

My apologies, I obviously missed the point of your post.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

RIT333 said:


> My apologies, I obviously missed the point of your post.


I


I did not


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

> Page 7 of the 926070 Ariens AX engine manual states "DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE IN THE IDLE POSITION"
> in Bold letters.


Kind of makes you wonder why it has an idle then does it not? Sure does for me. 

The point is likely you don't want to work it in idle, then in fact airflow begins to have some meaning.

But idle will provide airflow at 32 deg and under if its not under load. 

Oddly air cooled motor cycles don't say no idle and they have no cooling flow. No limits and just for an observation my brother ran a 69 Honda 750 across the Mojave in mid summer and it did just fine (him not so much). 105 -120 area. 



And factually, most charging systems are good above 1100 or so for mos if not full output and by 1500 are full voltage output. I don't know if Ariens etc have regulators. Be curious is anyone has the figures. Once you hit 14 volts that is all she wrote unless unregulated. Again a bit out of my non battery blower experience, I guess I could check the Yami to see what it does roughly (it does have a power circuit for light) - might just do that. 


Just some observations and thought.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

> JayzAuto1 to make a statement about a hydro you know nothing about doesn't help anyone here. Not that it matters here, I do have other hydro trans on other types of machines that haven't always run at full throttle and they are still running fine after 20+ yrs. They also have been maintained per the manufactures recommendations, I'll do the same for my 36" Ariens. Thanks.


That struck me as quite odd as well. Unless there is a cooler in the trans circuit mounted up on the engine, then the speed the engine is running has no affect on cooling. I strongly suspect there is not such a circuit and its designed to maintain cooling via passive design. 

Unsupported statements cause the write to loose credibility. 

Comes across as more cranky and opinion vs factual and informative.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

JayzAuto1 said:


> Tada, I never claimed to be a Phys Ed Perfessor...... I do not know about 'Drags, Squares...... or cannot decipher what 'you will find that younget *less* CFM per RPM at higher velocity' is either. I did a G**gle search, and Alexa doesn't know either. Again, not being any type of 'Teacher' or where to even look for a physics book. Even if I knew what that stuff was, I have no way of 'Testing' it. I went to the manufacture for advice. Both the Ariens and the engine builder (in an Ariens manual) suggest running at Top Speed. See my above response above for verification.
> 
> I am just a dummy that worx on small engines....You are free to read, adhere, or ignore anything I or anyone else has to say on these Boards. Let's face it, most of the people that write in looking for advice are beginners, Tinkering or are stuck. They may or not be up on technical terms, so I attempt to spell out in EZ to understand phrases (Fast Idle), something they will understand and get them out of a jamb, back to blowing snow. I make no attempt to over complicate matters, talk 'Down' to them or in a cynical way. There may or not be comedy in my answers. MY Hippocratic Oath states, "First, Do No Harm To Others OR their Problem Machines"
> 
> ...



Plainly and simply, a blower running, at say 1800 RPM through a modest size duct will put out a certain amount of air. Running that same blower at 3600 RPM through the same duct will not move 2x the air - the increased drag of the smallish duct will result in a lower airflow. Frictional losses are proportional to the square of the speed - so an engine running 1800 RPM will have a certain amount of frictional heat at that speed, and at 3600 RPM will have more than double that heat from friction. Fuel volume burned, at a correct mixture, *IS* pretty much proportional to RPM, since the displacement of the engine is fixed. 



This is the concept of "CFM per RPM" that I was going from.


And Ariens, in the manuals for EFI, *SPECICALLY* state that part throttle is fine (that's why they even mark the "Economy" position on the control)! 



I am just about certain that the "no throttle" machines sold now are due to the EPA and the carbs being used being unable to meet emissions at part throttle settings, and nothing more (and EFI can trivially hit that target). We had full throttle control on power equipment for years, and things were not blowing up due to folks using a more practical speed for their conditions . . . 



Note that the OP on this thread has an EFI machine as well . . . the mention of the "Economy" setting on the throttle is the dead giveaway . . .


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## KevinJD325 (Oct 12, 2019)

RC20 said:


> That struck me as quite odd as well. Unless there is a cooler in the trans circuit mounted up on the engine, then the speed the engine is running has no affect on cooling. I strongly suspect there is not such a circuit and its designed to maintain cooling via passive design.
> 
> Unsupported statements cause the write to loose credibility.
> 
> Comes across as more cranky and opinion vs factual and informative.




As an example, the facts: My JD325 garden tractor built in 2000 has a hydrostatic drive. On that machine there is a fan connected to the drive pulley, powered by a belt to the engine, that cools the hydro unit. I have many times just idled the tractor, driven the tractor at half throttle, driven the tractor at half throttle pulling a light trailer and have never had an issue with any sign of over heating. When I work the tractor, such as cutting grass or plowing snow, I run at full throttle, more for the engine power than anything else. No issues with the tractor and its done plenty of work. That trans is a Tuff Torque model.

Now I don't know without looking wether or not the Ariens Pro Hydro has a fan on the hydro unit (Hydro Gear model). I guess I'll find out someday, but for now I'm happy using the machine as it came and per the manufactures recommendations.

I'm a pretty good mechanic and surely don't want to preach my skills to anyone. My machines do last a long time though. All this post is about is running my new 36" Ariens and asking how others with the same are doing. That's it guys. I have nothing to say about the engineering of the engine or hydro drive from Ariens other than my basic observations on how it's going for me so as to help others.

So how's your "Ariens Professional Series with Hydrostatic Drive EFI 36" Model #926070 running?

Cheers!


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## KevinJD325 (Oct 12, 2019)

It's getting cold outside. Anyone buy a Ariens 36" Hydro Pro this year?? Can't wait to use it for another season, great machine!


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