# Honda HS624 - auger turns but not drive wheels



## doug_b (Dec 27, 2014)

I've fixed most everything in my home, but not this Honda.

Auger blows snow, motor sounds fine, hydrostatic fluid level looks OK. Had to drag it in from the driveway.

The clutch engagement handle just 'flops' has no spring tension. I trace it over to the auger handle - its not broken there.

Where should I start on this?


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

Replace the drive belt


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

There is this video too, but if the handle isn't doing anything I agree there is some kind of clutch problem.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

The tensioner arm has four springs in total. Two for the auger side and two for the drive belt side. If the drive handle is just flopping then it probably means that one of those springs has popped out of its position. 

You can inspect this by taking the plastic belt cover off, access to the top spring is easy but to get to the bottom sprint you may have to either tilt the snowblower or tip it on the auger housing. 

The retaining mount is part number 4 and the bottom spring is part number 1 in the illustration










the top spring is part number 1 in the illustration bellow.


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## TomB985 (Dec 21, 2013)

JnC's spring suggestion is the first that came to mind. The springs connect the cable end to the tensioner assembly, a broken spring or cable would cause it not to function. 

Here's a really bad scan of the relevant shop manual page:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2jcBQYiZXYHMzB5NlNNTklDTFE/view?usp=sharing


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## Surge (Dec 31, 2013)

I would also start by checking the springs first to see if they popped off or are broken.
If they are okay, then I would adjust the tension. I do not have a Honda, but the tensioners in my blower loosened up to the point that the blower did not drive. A simple adjustment fixed that.
Finally, if the springs and tension are good then I would check the belts.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Surge said:


> I would also start by checking the springs first to see if they popped off or are broken.
> If they are okay, then I would adjust the tension. I do not have a Honda, but the tensioners in my blower loosened up to the point that the blower did not drive. A simple adjustment fixed that.
> Finally, if the springs and tension are good then I would check the belts.


Sadly for hondas you can only adjust the tension on the auger pulley. The drive pulley is fixed solid and a bit of tension can be added/removed if needed by adjusting the cable.


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## doug_b (Dec 27, 2014)

OK - I found that the spring on the drive wheel snapped. I took off the belt cover, and then an 'L' shaped steel bracket that holds the auger and clutch cable. I can't move the bracket very much cause there is tension on the auger cable. Also the two cables are bolted to the backet - on the underneath side.

#1. How does one replace the spring?

#2. When I'm in this far, I'll replace both springs and the belts.

#3. Can you reccomend an on-line place that would have these parts. Do you have a sponsor website?

Thanks for all your help so far.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Replacing the spring should be pretty straight forward, you need to look for the wear marks or maybe the remnants of the old spring. If you do not see the old spring parts, you may want to look around for them, to prevent any further carnage. A couple pair of needle nose pliers may also aid in installation. 

Not a bad idea, but mind you that you are increasing the cost of the repair. I would hold onto the old belts, they might work as a back up in a pinch. 

So far as I know there are no sponsored sites. I've used parts tree.com, boats.net to source parts, but I have also taken a simple description to amazon, such as honda 123-34567, and had some reasonable success. Amazon can be cheaper, and if you spend enough there is no shipping charges, a plus when some places charge more based on what you spend even when it nothing more than gaskets.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I have never used it, but I believe a few members here have ordered parts from boats.net.

All Years Honda Snowblower Parts


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## TomB985 (Dec 21, 2013)

db9938 said:


> Replacing the spring should be pretty straight forward, you need to look for the wear marks or maybe the remnants of the old spring. If you do not see the old spring parts, you may want to look around for them, to prevent any further carnage. A couple pair of needle nose pliers may also aid in installation.


I wouldn't bother looking for parts of the old spring. They would have simply fallen out the bottom of the machine. 



doug_b said:


> OK - I found that the spring on the drive wheel snapped. I took off the belt cover, and then an 'L' shaped steel bracket that holds the auger and clutch cable. I can't move the bracket very much cause there is tension on the auger cable. Also the two cables are bolted to the backet - on the underneath side.
> 
> #1. How does one replace the spring?


I would stand it up on its nose for better access to the bottom. Remove the bottom plate and you should see where the springs attach to the bracket on the right gearbox. I used a few pieces of lumber to brace the top of the bucket:





> #2. When I'm in this far, I'll replace both springs and the belts.


I wouldn't bother replacing springs that haven't broken. My 22-year-old 624 springs look as old as the machine and they're in fine shape. I don't think the other three are likely to fail. 

The belts require lots more disassembly. You have to remove the front auger assembly, the impeller, and the entire blower housing. This is how far it has to come down to get the auger drive belt: 





> #3. Can you reccomend an on-line place that would have these parts. Do you have a sponsor website?
> 
> Thanks for all your help so far.





Shryp said:


> I have never used it, but I believe a few members here have ordered parts from boats.net.
> 
> All Years Honda Snowblower Parts


I've had good results from boats.net, their prices couldn't be touched by my local dealer. My order from last year took a couple of weeks to ship though, they don't have everything in stock.


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## doug_b (Dec 27, 2014)

TomB985 said:


> I wouldn't bother looking for parts of the old spring. They would have simply fallen out the bottom of the machine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you! That picture was worth 1000 words. 

I'm in Minnesota - knowing how much I have to take apart - I'll just replace the spring 

The drive belt is a little frayed, the auger belt looks OK - maybe this summer. 

It's impossible to get to the spring from the top - guess I'll have to drain the gas tank to invert the machine.

I found a site Heartland Honda - that has schematics / etc I may try them.


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## TomB985 (Dec 21, 2013)

doug_b said:


> Thank you! That picture was worth 1000 words.
> 
> I'm in Minnesota - knowing how much I have to take apart - I'll just replace the spring
> 
> ...


Really miss it up there, I worked in Hudson, WI until a couple of years ago. Hoping I can get work to transfer me back! 

I didn't have any gas leak when I did mine, but my gas tank was brand new with the engine last year. The hydrostatic fluid slowly seeped out of the reservoir though, so I ended up unbolting it and propping it more upright.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If all you need is a spring you can probably get something that will work cheaply from a local hardware store.


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## doug_b (Dec 27, 2014)

Well I got the spring here in Minneapolis. This beast weighs 175 lbs.

I'm going to see what I can do with tipping it back - 30 degrees or so.

If that doesn't work - how long does it take to remove the auger and the front end?

Putting it on it's nose or side - I figure I have to drain the oil / gas / hydrostatic fluid - maybe it's just easier to remove the auger?


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

As demonstrated in Tom's picture, a prop of some sorts would be greatly beneficial. He used a two hand truck, I use a set of adjustable bar/pipe clamps. Heck if you weren't worried about anyone running into it, you could use a rope over the garage rafter. Even though I have not worked on this particular machine, I would suspect that as long as the tractor portion is secured, then you may not have to totally divorce the two to gain access to what you need. You just need to be darn sure that the handles are secured.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

You can also lean the bar against a work bench, worked great for me. 

Once the housing is apart, springs are easy to access as others suggested. Do not remove the retaining bracket, bolted to the right transmission case. Leave that in its place, hook in the new springs to the pivot point on the tensioner arm, pull the spring down and snap it into the retaining bracket. 

The orientation of the hooks do matter, I cant recall right now but I believe the end of the auger spring hook faces the engine where as the end of the drive spring faces the outside/track/wheel side. I had them both facing the engine and when I tested them the drive spring kept snapping out of the retaining bracket. Test them out before putting everything back together. 

Here is a picture of the bottom springs, hope it helps.


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks for all the great help and pictures guys. That's what makes forums like this work. We need a thank you button here like there is on my lawn mower forum.




Shryp said:


> I have never used it, but I believe a few members here have ordered parts from boats.net.
> 
> All Years Honda Snowblower Parts


I've used them often for both snow blower and mower parts. Ordering from their site is easy, quick and their shipping is usually pretty fast.


Although you can't order parts directly from Honda, you can look up the part information you need from Power Equipment web site and have the part number information in hand when you go looking online, or through your dealer. It's always good to have a working relationship with a local dealer who has knowledge and experience. They just might give you good advise on how to go about repairing things because they've done it.

Honda Power Equipment - Parts Look Up - Official Site


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## TomB985 (Dec 21, 2013)

doug_b said:


> Putting it on it's nose or side - I figure I have to drain the oil / gas / hydrostatic fluid - maybe it's just easier to remove the auger?


That depends on you. I can have the blower housing completely removed in less than ten minutes if I'm not disassembling the auger assembly. I've also done it a bunch of times and have none of the belt brackets to bother with on my engine. 

Remove the chute and belt guard, then start removing the bolts that hold the blower housing to the frame. Make sure you support the handles before you remove the last one. 

If you want to replace the auger drive belt you'll have to disassemble the auger assembly somewhat, this is needed to pull the pulley out so you can slip the new belt on. This would be a good time to make sure your augers aren't seized to the shaft and grease them up.


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

I've never ordered from them, but they are one of the largest Honda parts suppliers in the country, and worth a look.

Plano Power Equipment

Plano Power Equipment Online Store - Honda Snowblower Parts by Model Number


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## doug_b (Dec 27, 2014)

OK - the entire blower housing with the auger inside can be removed as a unit - looks like 8 - 10 blots. That's what I'll do.

Augers turn fine - where would you grease them? Are there zerk fittings? Bearings on each side of the blower?


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Auger has two sealed bearings, one on either end.
Honda Power Equipment - Parts Look Up Results

That bearing is pretty common, and used on a lot of Honda equipment, and most likely other brands as well.

96150-62030-10 HONDA BEARING (6203UU) (Honda Code 0649046)


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

Just make sure you use a double sealed bearing like the one mentioned or a 6203 2RS(Cheaper and just as good). Doesn't have to be a sheilded bearing because these are incased in a housing. Would probably last forever if it wasn't for the road salt in the OEDs. The UU in the part number stands for urethane seal on both sides same as 2RS which stands for "2" "S"eals on either side of "R"oller sometimes written "SRS"


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## TomB985 (Dec 21, 2013)

doug_b said:


> Augers turn fine - where would you grease them? Are there zerk fittings? Bearings on each side of the blower?


The part that needs to be greased has no fittings. The two augers are affixed to the center shaft with shear bolts. Over the years the augers can rust to the shaft which makes the shear bolts ineffective. This can cause some very expensive things to break if you hit something hard.

Check out this video:


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## doug_b (Dec 27, 2014)

Thanks for all this great input. Since I don't have a shop manual, I just wanted to be sure that there wasn't any special alignment, tolerances, gaps, etc. I've done quite a bit of automotive repairs - but never small equipment.

I have Jan 2nd off work. I'm going to do the repair then. 

Let you guy's know my success.

Again, thanks for taking the time. I don't think I've ever visited a site with so many really helpful and intelligent responses!


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## doug_b (Dec 27, 2014)

I have replaced the upper clutch spring, and both the drive and auger belts.

I have another problem. About a year ago, the auger handle did fully return to the 'disengaged' posistion. It's still a problem. Both the upper and lower auger tension springs look in good shape. The auger clutch wheel seems 'lazy'. Instead of returning completely when released, it barely backs off the belt.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

doug_b said:


> I have replaced the upper clutch spring, and both the drive and auger belts.
> 
> I have another problem. About a year ago, the auger handle did fully return to the 'disengaged' posistion. It's still a problem. Both the upper and lower auger tension springs look in good shape. The auger clutch wheel seems 'lazy'. Instead of returning completely when released, it barely backs off the belt.


Even though the cable ends, on the handle side, are sealed with the rubber boots, dust/salt etc will get in there over time. 

When I first got my Honda the chute cable was sticking and was taking a lot of force to move. 

I lubed all the cables, disassembled the levers and all is well. 

In your case I'd advise lubricating the cables. 

Use this lube, you can pick it up at your local Napa auto parts. 

NAPA AUTO PARTS

you'll also need this tool

âœ´ Motion Pro Cable Luber Tool â€¢ Motorcycle Repair Parts Lube â€¢ 08 0182 âœ´ | eBay

and here is a video showing how to






good luck, let us know how it pans out.


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## Aspybaykid (Feb 9, 2015)

I just encountered the same problem with my HS928TC after cleaning from a major snow storm (approx 20" snow, drifts 36"). Luckily I found this forum and in particular this thread! The diagrams turned a head scratcher into a 10 minute repair. Blower is now operating normally and is ready for the next snow storm. The info on here is awesome! Thanks everybody, especially JnC!


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