# Craftsman 536.885900



## Alexsha

So I just purchased a new to me Craftsman 536.885900 snow blower. 8hp engine and 26" bucket. Built in 1989 and it looks maybe a few years old. I need to clean up the engine a bit (old gas), replace the drive cable (snapped at the handle), and lube up the tracks and drive components (the tracks will move an inch or 2 and stick, so there's definitely some rust in there). The auger and impeller work beautifully.

I'll take pictures as I tear into the drive components. Looking forward to getting this beast working like new.


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## bad69cat

At least you don't have to worry about flat tires! I have passed up on the track units but I may rethink that...... some advantages I guess.


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## Jackmels

You might find Critters Dragged a bunch of "Stuff" inside the chassis, Locking up the Drive, or Rusted Chains would do it as well....Let us know what you find inside...GL


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## sidegrinder

+1 for rusted chains


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## Kiss4aFrog

Looks to be in pretty good condition. You might flip it up on it's auger and pull the pan covering the transmission and check out the mechanicals in there. Rusted chain or something likely hiding in there.


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## Alexsha

Flipping it is the plan for this weekend. The tracks move a little, so I don't think it's rusted solid. As mentioned, probably a critter or rusted chain.

I need to get more info on the engine as its hard to start manually. Starts pretty well with the electronic starter though. Trying to decide if I should go with non-ethanol gas and some cleaning addatives or just give it the seafoam treatment.


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## skutflut

Alexsha said:


> Flipping it is the plan for this weekend. The tracks move a little, so I don't think it's rusted solid. As mentioned, probably a critter or rusted chain.
> 
> I need to get more info on the engine as its hard to start manually. Starts pretty well with the electronic starter though. Trying to decide if I should go with non-ethanol gas and some cleaning addatives or just give it the seafoam treatment.



If you have pure gas easily available, use it.


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## Alexsha

There is a station not too far from here that sells non-ethanol gas. I need to pick some up.


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## Alexsha

How freely should the bearings on the axle spin? I've gotten them moving, but it's fairly stiff and won't free spin. I haven't gotten the chain sprockets off yet, so I haven't been able to remove the bearings to really clean them out.


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## skutflut

Alexsha said:


> How freely should the bearings on the axle spin? I've gotten them moving, but it's fairly stiff and won't free spin. I haven't gotten the chain sprockets off yet, so I haven't been able to remove the bearings to really clean them out.


Bearings should be fairly free moving and not feel rough or grate while turning. Hard to tell how free they are until you get the axles separated from each other by removing the chains. They could account for a lot of the drag if they are all dried up and rusty inside the links, rollers and sprockets. You are also trying to move 4 of them while the chains are attached. There will be some drag obviously, more if they are bushings, less if they are roller bearings.


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## Alexsha

skutflut said:


> Bearings should be fairly free moving and not feel rough or grate while turning. Hard to tell how free they are until you get the axles separated from each other by removing the chains. They could account for a lot of the drag if they are all dried up and rusty inside the links, rollers and sprockets. You are also trying to move 4 of them while the chains are attached. There will be some drag obviously, more if they are bushings, less if they are roller bearings.


I've got the 4 wheels, chains, outer plate, tracks all removed. All that's on the axle is the bearing/hub assemblies on either side, the inner plate, and chain sprocket. Moving it doesn't grind, but there's a lot of drag. I'm not sure if they're bushings or roller bearings though. Still working on getting the sprockets off so I can get the bearing/hub assemblies off.


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## bad69cat

I see one of these coming up at my auction house tonight as a matter of fact..... debating on wheather or not to grab it. It better be cheap...... not sure I want to support it - but somebody will likely bring one to me for repairs and it could make for parts if it's to far gone I guess.


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## skutflut

Alexsha said:


> I've got the 4 wheels, chains, outer plate, tracks all removed. All that's on the axle is the bearing/hub assemblies on either side, the inner plate, and chain sprocket. Moving it doesn't grind, but there's a lot of drag. I'm not sure if they're bushings or roller bearings though. Still working on getting the sprockets off so I can get the bearing/hub assemblies off.


How are the shafts/bearings for side play. No grinding sounds is a good thing and sort of indicates there are bushings rather than bearings. Be nice if everything is still round and just a bit gooey.


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## Alexsha

There doesn't seem to be any real play in the hub on the axle. I'd love it if I could find someone who's torn one of these down to know if they're bearings or not. Still haven't gotten the sprockets off yet. Going to get a different puller and add some heat to it this weekend and see if it lets go.

This is the hub/bearing from searspartsdirect.com:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/cra...16/0071/536/model-536885900/0247/1507200.html

It doesn't look like there's a roller bearing so if I can get the sprockets off, It might just need a cleaning.


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## skutflut

Alexsha said:


> There doesn't seem to be any real play in the hub on the axle. I'd love it if I could find someone who's torn one of these down to know if they're bearings or not. Still haven't gotten the sprockets off yet. Going to get a different puller and add some heat to it this weekend and see if it lets go.
> 
> This is the hub/bearing from searspartsdirect.com:
> Hub Bearing Kit | Part Number 760300MA | GUARANTEED FIT from Sears PartsDirect
> 
> It doesn't look like there's a roller bearing so if I can get the sprockets off, It might just need a cleaning.


That brass part is a bushing, so that rules out roller or ball bearings.


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## HCBPH

It's been a long time since I worked on it but I did work on a 10 HP tracked unit before. One thing I found was the track wheels had issues with rust on the shafts. I found a spot with enough meat that I was able to drill and tap for a grease zerk. That way you could grease them without disassembling the track units. 

Just a suggestion.


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## Alexsha

To be clear, you drilled and tapped the large plastic wheels?


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## HCBPH

Alexsha said:


> To be clear, you drilled and tapped the large plastic wheels?


 Are the large wheels on the ends that guide the track on yours plastic? The one I worked on were metal. I don't see why you couldn't do the same thing on plastic if there's enough material to drill and tap into, keep the shafts lubed and hopefully rust free.


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## deezldude

On mine, the chain came off the sprocket on the left side. I can't figure out how to get the chain back on. Any tips?


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## Alexsha

You can either remove the bolts holding the wheel on to get more room, out you can push the chain against the sprocket while turning the drive wheel which will draw it onto the sprocket.


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## Alexsha

UPDATE:
I was able to remove all the wheel shafts and remove the sprockets from the drive axle. Serious pain. One of the wheel shafts was damaged in the process, but I was able to repair it so it works at least until the replacement I ordered gets here. I initially chiseled guns, rust, and 26 year old grease off the shafts and axle, then sanded them down with 120 grit sandpaper. Everything is now re-greased and reassembled. I'll put in zerks next spring/summer.

I need to clean up the carb because I have some surging/hunting and I get a bit of backfire when shutting the engine down. Hopefully the surging is fixed with a good cleaning and maybe a new o-ring on the carb bowl. Adding choke with it running stops the surging, so that's what it should be.


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## HCBPH

Is your carb one with the non adjustable main jet on it? That's the one on the bottom of the bowl. If it is, I consistently replace them with ones I get from Ebay with the adjustable jet. Look for one for the same size engine, with the adjustable jet and the same linkage. I've had very good luck with Oregon carbs, it's a virtual swap out, and everything I've checked so far from a Tecumseh carb has fit without a problem.


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## Alexsha

Well, I had a few minutes so I removed the cover for the carb and controls. The hose running from the primer bulb to the carb bowl was completely cut off. I removed the nub from the carb bowl and reattached the primer bulb hose and it's pulling fuel now, so that's great. I can still hear a bit of air escaping somewhere in there when I press the primer bulb, so I definitely need to pull it apart and check.

Also, it already has an adjustable screw for the main jet.


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## deezldude

I said the heck with it and traded for an Ariens 94012. Thanks for all the replies, this forum is great.


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## HCBPH

Alexsha said:


> I can still hear a bit of air escaping somewhere in there when I press the primer bulb, so I definitely need to pull it apart and check.
> 
> Also, it already has an adjustable screw for the main jet.


 Typically when you press the primer bulb, it pushes air into the carb bowl, which forces gas into the intake of the engine. It's no more than a simple air pump so you should hear either air or fuel moving when you press it.


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## Alexsha

Hear, yes. Feel, no. There is definitely air escaping out somewhere around the carb bowl. I can feel a little puff when I press the primer.


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## unknown1

HCBPH said:


> It's been a long time since I worked on it but I did work on a 10 HP tracked unit before. One thing I found was the track wheels had issues with rust on the shafts. I found a spot with enough meat that I was able to drill and tap for a grease zerk. That way you could grease them without disassembling the track units.
> 
> Just a suggestion.


Yes.. thanks.. good idea.. I've seen that mentioned in a few other threads too. People don't want to have to go through that disassemble again if they can avoid it. That includes me.


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## Nunya

Alexsha said:


> So I just purchased a new to me Craftsman 536.885900 snow blower. 8hp engine and 26" bucket. Built in 1989 and it looks maybe a few years old. I need to clean up the engine a bit (old gas), replace the drive cable (snapped at the handle), and lube up the tracks and drive components (the tracks will move an inch or 2 and stick, so there's definitely some rust in there). The auger and impeller work beautifully.
> 
> I'll take pictures as I tear into the drive components. Looking forward to getting this beast working like new.


Im looking for a replcement chute thats metal for this exact blower any ideas where i could get one?


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF Nunya









Check SearsPartsDirect.com to find the part number of the chute as it's likely it fit a number of machines and not just this specific one. That would increase your chances of finding one.
Different parts suppliers if you go new: - - > snowblower parts at DuckDuckGo
Look on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace
Check in the classifieds here to see if there is a parts machine being offered and or post for the part you need.


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