# Is it worthwhile to install wheels?



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Is it worthwhile and a benefit to replace the skid plates with rollers or wheels other than no wear on the skids anymore!

I have a stick arc welder and a MIG welder so I don't care about the wear on the skid plates as I just weld another piece of metal on.

And with my welders and cutting torch, I can weld, cut, and bend metal and fabricate a set of roller skid plates but is it worth the time and effort for the benefit?

I'm in NJ, it may snow enough to use my snowblower 0-5 times a year expecting 1"-5" a few times and on occasion 7"-10" with every few years 25". I have a short 4 car driveway, sidewalk around the house, street sidewalk, plus I do several neighbors sidewalks.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

I know Coby7 uses and likes them.

I say go for it.


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

I think many of those "wheels" would collect snow and freeze. Then you have a "skid wheel" rather than a "skid shoe".


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

I've said it before, I'll say it again:



sscotsman said:


> For 90% of snowblowers, and owners, skids are MUCH better than wheels..skids glide easily over paved surfaces, while wheels can freeze up, stop spinning, and then grind down a flat spot.
> 
> For special surfaces wheels can maybe be better..but that's an exception...for a typical asphalt or concrete driveway, skids are much better.
> 
> Scot





sscotsman said:


> I have never used roller skids, so maybe my logic is faulty...but I dont see how roller skids can offer any advantage over "regular" skids..
> 
> 1. on a snowy driveway, there is very little friction anyway, so regular skids just glide with very little friction.
> 
> ...





sscotsman said:


> We have talked about wheels vs. skids several times here over the past few years..
> my opinion on these wheel mods: completely useless and pointless.
> 
> The wheels give you no benefits over skids, and the wheels have a major drawback in that they can freeze up and lock,
> ...


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

In all the years we have discussed this idea, I have only seen one real logical use for wheels..a guy needed to wheel his snowblower from the shed, across a good amount of grass lawn, whenever he used it. In that case, he installed wheels to get the machine over the grass.

For any other "regular" use, wheels are a bad idea..skids are so much better..
which is why snowblowers have had skids for over 60 years, and not wheels.

Scot


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I always liked CarlB's video if his roller mod.
CubCadetRollerskidvideo1.mp4 Video by carlb2323 | Photobucket
From;
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/general-snowblower-discussion/619-roller-skids.html


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

My old Craftsman came with a roller of sorts. I've seen them referred to as pizza cutters.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Well my next question would have been fixed wheels or wheels rhat turn but after the SScotman's post, well ......... not worth the effort. I feel I even need to apologize for the post. Thanks. Lot of good feedback on this site but are snowblowers a passion or an obsession?


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

I was having issues with shoes grabbing my uneven hot top, i made up these shoes with sealed roller bearings. My 36" machine now rolls effortlessly over my bumpy driveway.


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

Your creation certainly looks similar to these:


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

JLawrence08648 said:


> ....... but after the SScotman's post, well ......... not worth the effort. I feel I even need to apologize for the post.....QUOTE]
> 
> There's certainly no need to apologize.You asked an honest question and you received several people's opinions on the idea which you are free to accept or not because they ARE just opinions.
> 
> If you want to try the roller skids-go for it,what will it hurt?


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I use my blower on gravel, asphalt, grass and concrete. I've never seen the need to change from skids. I've used the same Ariens 8-24 with a Harbor Freight Greyhound engine for a dozen years now and the skids are still in great shape, and they were old when I got the machine. A new set of reversible skids at my local Ariens dealer ( generic) is ten bucks ( granted he treats me right) so why fix a nonexistant problem?


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

I had the roller skids for a brief period. They didn't last long. They freeze up and then get sanded flat, exactly as reported above. Nifty idea, but not ready for prime time.


I really like the poly skids.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> ...after the SScotman's post, well ......... not worth the effort. I feel I even need to apologize for the post. Thanks. Lot of good feedback on this site but are snowblowers a passion or an obsession?


Ha! and I feel bad for being the first one to back your idea up. I'm a pure skid guy myself. Never had a need for wheels.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

If shoes are preferred and you like making your own things, I've made my own heavy duty ones for years. Hardest part is bending the stock. I cut off the old runner, grind backing plate to match profile angles, weld up, sandblast & paint. The stock i buy is 1/2" X 1" hot roll steel bar stock.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Wow Shaw,those are truly a work of art-for something so simple..


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

They are nice, after a coat of paint you wouldn't know the difference between a store bought one other than they are heavier and thicker and will last longer.

You can't bend that stock without a oxy acetylene torch. Look at the welds, besides nice welds, he went nuts and welded every part of that. Not going no where.

I just take some 3/4" wide 1/8"-1/4" thick or so flat steel, whatever I have lying around, cut it a flat piece a few inches long with a reciprocating saw, not worth getting my torch out sometimes, then arc stick weld it on the existing skid plate hoping to get the plate before the bottom wears away, if not, it still can be welded.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Shaw....those are some heavy duty plates...good job


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I saw on YouTube someone using sealed bearings. I don't know if I like this idea. The sealed bearings aren't really sealed well, water will definitely get in and rust. I'm thinking of wheels and not sure then of the size.



Shaw351 said:


> I was having issues with shoes grabbing my uneven hot top, i made up these shoes with sealed roller bearings. My 36" machine now rolls effortlessly over my bumpy driveway.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

Hey guys, Afternoon....
Great place to show / share ideas, as a picture says so much more. 
I bend my shoes in a 10 ton arbor press, but heat would absolutely make it easier. If I couldn't bend them I would cut into three pieces and weld it up that way. You can buy heavy duty shoes but I enjoy making my own parts rather than buying them as it gives me opportunity to play in the shop. 

Ill keep you guys updated on the evaluation of roller skids. I had the issue of both regular & my heavy duty skids digging into uneven driveway, which caused me to fight the machine to go straight. Now it easily drives straight with little effort. Still making modifications to my Franken Blower as they arise, but have only used it TWICE this YEAR !! So not much testing to be done without any snow in New England.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

sscotsman said:


> In all the years we have discussed this idea, I have only seen one real logical use for wheels..a guy needed to wheel his snowblower from the shed, across a good amount of grass lawn, whenever he used it. In that case, he installed wheels to get the machine over the grass.
> 
> For any other "regular" use, wheels are a bad idea..skids are so much better..
> which is why snowblowers have had skids for over 60 years, and not wheels.
> ...


I respectfully disagree.

I never tried an old set of steel shoes on my Ariens, just the new steel shoes that come on the machines. Maybe the steel is different today? I just don't know. But they wear down FAST!

In my use of snow blowers, I clear a lot of cement sidewalks plus a large driveway. The shoes on my machines would not even last a season. By February I would have flipped the shoes around, then throw them out come April.

Now that I added my version of wheels on the machines, they stay level, the scraper bar don't need adjustments and more importantly the original set I made are still in fine working order.

For my application it's an awesome add on.

Plus with the new auto turn I run straight lines down the driveway without fish tailing all over the driveway. That snake action will tire you out in short order.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

here are a few pics of my roller skids I made from an old skid shoe and some 1" thick uhmw (someone already posted a video of it above). There are no bearings just a 1/2" stainless steel bolt welded to the skid and a 9/16 hole in the uhmw with a little light grease on the bolt. They have never frozen and have worked fine for over six years with little to no visible wear. They glide easily over my driveway and make this 300+ lb large frame old school cub cadet easy to move in a straight line and since it has a differential and turns like a dream. 

http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb395/carlb2323/CubCadetRollerskid4.jpg

http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb395/carlb2323/CubCadetRollerskid1.jpg


I made some long 12" regular style skid shoes from the same material and the rollers work better for me.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

CarlB said:


> here are a few pics of my roller skids I made from an old skid shoe and some 1" thick uhmw (someone already posted a video of it above). There are no bearings just a 1/2" stainless steel bolt welded to the skid and a 9/16 hole in the uhmw with a little light grease on the bolt. They have never frozen and have worked fine for over six years with little to no visible wear. They glide easily over my driveway and make this 300+ lb large frame old school cub cadet easy to move in a straight line and since it has a differential and turns like a dream.
> 
> http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb395/carlb2323/CubCadetRollerskid4.jpg
> 
> ...


People don't understand how nice the wheels up front work on paved surfaces. My late uncle made a set of bearings for a 1960 snowbird and when I sold that machine maybe 10 years ago the sealed bearing where still working.

I believe your pictures inspired me to fix the autoturn on my Ariens 3 years ago. But I went with bigger bearings and one on each side similar to yours. A blend of my Uncle and your idea.

Does the nylon wear down on your wheels? I was afraid of wobbly wheels and went with sealed bearings. I know the bearings hold up (but the machines stay in my garage not outside all year long).


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

.Does the nylon wear down on your wheels? I was afraid of wobbly wheels and went with sealed bearings. I know the bearings hold up (but the machines stay in my garage not outside all year long).[/QUOTE said:


> They are now six years old and there is no visible signs of wear. I haven't had to adjust the scraper bar since i put the wheels on. With the differential and the roller skids this beast is very easy to use.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

CarlB said:


> They are now six years old and there is no visible signs of wear. I haven't had to adjust the scraper bar since i put the wheels on. With the differential and the roller skids this beast is very easy to use.


Thanks


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## wow08816 (Feb 2, 2017)

I have installed inline skate/scooter wheels on all of my previously owned blowers. Skid shoes were leaving impressions on my asphalt driveway. I went with the simple approach as opposed to modifications of skid shoes (mostly because I do not have welding tools, experience, or ingenuity). 

I used inline skate wheels or scooter wheels depending on the snowblower's skid shoe dimensions. These wheels would be bolted on using a longer carriage bolt to support plastic spacers, bearings and wheel. I bought the inexpensive bearings ($.75) from a go kart supply site. As I did not need the expensive high tech laboratory equipment bearings which could cost over $40 a pop. You can buy used inline skate or scooter wheels on ebay very cheaply. 

Although it is not as an aesthetic a solution as welding. It was a cheap and easy fix for the lesser skilled. How long do they last? Oldest one is 16 years on same wheel & bearing.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Would somebody mind posting one of CarlB's photos here so I can see his design-they absolutely refuse to load for me.Thanks.


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

Here you go:


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

wow08816 said:


> I used inline skate wheels or scooter wheels depending on the snowblower's skid shoe dimensions. These wheels would be bolted on using a longer carriage bolt to support plastic spacers, bearings and wheel. I bought the inexpensive bearings ($.75) from a go kart supply site.


If you went with the inline skates wheels or scooter wheels, why buy bearings? The wheels have bearings. I'm confused. Or did you use the bearings as the wheels.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

CarlB said:


> here are a few pics of my roller skids I made from an old skid shoe and some 1" thick uhmw (someone already posted a video of it above). There are no bearings just a 1/2" stainless steel bolt welded to the skid and a 9/16 hole in the uhmw with a little light grease on the bolt. They have never frozen and have worked fine for over six years with little to no visible wear. They glide easily over my driveway and make this 300+ lb large frame old school cub cadet easy to move in a straight line and since it has a differential and turns like a dream.
> 
> http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb395/carlb2323/CubCadetRollerskid4.jpg
> 
> ...


Did you cut these in a circle and drill them or did you buy them as round? If you cut them it would seem to get a perfect circle you would have to have made a jig and then use a bench grinder or a router in a table.


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## wow08816 (Feb 2, 2017)

The standard bearing dimensions for inline skates & scooters are 8mm id (inside diameter) & 22mm od (outside diameter). The bearings are removable from the wheel and can be replaced on skates & scooters wheels when the bearings are worn or switched into new wheels when the wheels are worn.

Not all snow blowers share the same size carriage bolts for the skid shoes. So the skid shoe's carriage bolt size will dictate the id size (inner hole) of the bearing needed. 

In short, Ariens has a 3/8" carriage bolt would require a 9mm id bearing. While my Sears & Husqvarna blowers have 5/16" carriage bolts and can use the standard 8mm id bearing.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Vermont007 said:


> Here you go:


Thanks VT007,appreciate it.

Look good,Carl.I'm actually tempted to make and try them-just out of curiosity.

I'd really like to have an even bigger set of wheels that I could attach quickly,just for transport, to my Allis 828.Sometimes I take that old pig down to the gate area to keep the road widened out-it's a single lane.It's quite a walk down there.A set of wheels that I could just clamp on at a moment's notice would make the trip much nicer.I wouldn't have to hold the front up nor let it bang along on the road,which gets heavily rutted and rough over the course of the winter.


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## wow08816 (Feb 2, 2017)

Sample of 85mm scooter wheels on 2005 Ariens ST1332LE blower. 9mm id 22mm od bearings used due to 3/8" carriage bolt of Ariens skid shoe. I did add a plastic spacer to reduce rubbing/rust. Don't leave blower facing wrong direction on slope surface if you use this solution. Or have a door stop handy as a hill brake. 

I have also installed wheels on a Sears 9HP 28" blower as well. The smaller carriage bolt size 5/16" and lower auger housing allowed me to use standard inline skate bearings (8mm id) and wheels (68mm). You can buy used bearings and wheels on eBay. Unlike the avid skater, the snow blower does not require high performance bearings & wheels. So end of life quality bearings & wheels to a skater is more than adequate for your snow blower.

How well do these used parts hold up? The scooter wheels on the Ariens blower (below) were installed in 2005.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

That's it, roller blade wheels. Easiest thing to do, and I have them. Sure my kid won't miss them! Put them on the blower in the winter, and take them off in the spring!! Like to try them out on biggest, bulkiest, heavy, and less maneuverable blower, a real John Deere 1032.


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## amuller (Jan 3, 2016)

Dynamark used steel disk wheels instead of skids, as seen in the Sears "3 stage" machine in the pic. Apparently this didn't amount to a competitive advantage as they didn't keep it up, nor did other vendors copy the design.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Did you cut these in a circle and drill them or did you buy them as round? If you cut them it would seem to get a perfect circle you would have to have made a jig and then use a bench grinder or a router in a table.


just used a plain old whole saw and drill press I don't remember but i think either 2 or 2 1/2 inch. This stuff drills and cuts easy


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## 524SWE (Jan 20, 2017)

*it's time I weighed in on this topic...*



sscotsman said:


> In all the years we have discussed this idea, I have only seen one real logical use for wheels..a guy needed to wheel his snowblower from the shed, across a good amount of grass lawn, whenever he used it. In that case, he installed wheels to get the machine over the grass.
> 
> For any other "regular" use, wheels are a bad idea..skids are so much better..
> which is why snowblowers have had skids for over 60 years, and not wheels.
> ...


I know that guy Scot is talking about. "He" had a brand new Husqvarna ST327P. "He" put adjustable wheels from a Toro lawnmower on it. Bolted right on, same holes as the snowblower skids. At first they seemed to be the hot setup! "He" could raise the scraper bar an inch or more off the grass, move easily to his driveway and lower it to an 1/8" and clear the driveway. Then "he" noticed the snowblower didn't steer well, "he'd" pull the triggers to go left or right and still had to use considerable effort to turn. The wheels froze up and also made it difficult to go thru deep snow as they stuck out too far. Part of the problem seems to be the Husqvarna was very front end heavy. In conclusion "he" doubts "he" would do it again.
Then "he" had a reversal of fortunes, "he" didn't get the property managers job "he'd" need the big snowblower for. "He" wound up selling the snowblower. It was way to big and heavy for what little driveway "he" had. "He" bought a 10 year old rusty Cub Cadet that had been worked hard and put away wet as they say in the horse world. After numerous applications of grease and oil it works fine. Besides, "he" likes to work on them as much as use them.
"He" got into some less than satisfactory discourse with some forum members and then lost his password and didn't have the same email address to recover it.
"He took some time off and then decided "he'd" come back and just not try to be so social.
So the bottom line is the wheels thing isn't going to work for 9 out of 10 people. Just "his" 2 cents.


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## DriverRider (Nov 20, 2016)

Wheels up front are nothing new. All the Snowbirds had eighth inch discs as can be seen on my 1963 S263. Modern manufacturing dictates stamping out a skid instead of working with steel plate which will last a lifetime.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Does wheel size matter for turning and ease of manueverablity? Would a thin wheel such as a wheel off roller blades work better than a wider wheel made from that white plastic? Is the white plastic the same material as cutting boards? Polyethylene?

Would a taller wheel such as a child's bicycle training wheel work better? It is talking but not that wide. It seems a lawnmower wheel is wide and my guess would make it harder to turn.

The few examples shown, a bearing and a white plastic wheel and the mention of a roller blade wheel are all small and seem to work well.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Does wheel size matter for turning and ease of manueverablity? Would a thin wheel such as a wheel off roller blades work better than a wider wheel made from that white plastic? Is the white plastic the same material as cutting boards? Polyethylene?
> 
> Would a taller wheel such as a child's bicycle training wheel work better? It is talking but not that wide. It seems a lawnmower wheel is wide and my guess would make it harder to turn.
> 
> The few examples shown, a bearing and a white plastic wheel and the mention of a roller blade wheel are all small and seem to work well.


In my experience with wheels, I want something that can slide made of a hard material (I use sealed bearings as wheels) as when you turn, you want the wheels to slide. IMHO a rubber wheel wouldn't slide well as you change direction.

In addition to changing direction, I do press down on the machine handles slightly so the bucket floats to omit the dragging of my wheels. But, it will slide on the pavement if you were unable to float the front.


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## wow08816 (Feb 2, 2017)

While it is an OBVIOUS TRUTH that rubber wheels will grip more than metal. One must take into consider the conditions when wheel sliding is required. Generally it is under snow covered conditions. The treadless rubber skate wheels tends to harden when exposed to extreme cold temperatures and will lose much of most of its tackiness. Thus offering very little grip resistance. It will tract like bald tires on snow.

However, the rubber wheels do grip much more in warmer temperatures or on a bare garage floor. But I generally don't need to make tight sliding maneuvers with my snowblower on warmer bare surfaces.


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## mrfixit (Dec 3, 2016)

Anyone add wheels to their Toro?
If so what material did you use?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Ariens hydro pro said:


> In my experience with wheels, I want something that can slide made of a hard material (I use sealed bearings as wheels) as when you turn, you want the wheels to slide. IMHO a rubber wheel wouldn't slide well as you change direction.
> 
> In addition to changing direction, I do press down on the machine handles slightly so the bucket floats to knit the dragging of my wheels. But, it will slide on the pavement if you were unable to float the front.


Thanks Ariens Hydro Pro, that was one of my considerations, either the bearings or white plastic seem to be the best alternatives, with the white plastic maybe being the best, doesn't rust, slips, moves, inexpensive, easily cut with a hole saw, very replaceable; the bearings cost money and I'm afraid they will rust; then the downside to roller blade wheels, rubber, may stick and not slide sideways.

Now I have to remember the type of plastic being used???


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

My signature blower came with "pizza cutter" wheels.The worked pretty good on sidewalks, but I moved to a house with an unpaved driveway, so I put on skids, they work fine.
Sid


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

*Housing wheels - fixed or swivel? Leaning towards swivel*

Since in NJ the weather is warming, we are done with snow, I think? I am motivated because of this forum to make improvements, not me, no of course not, to my snowblowers. I'm going to line the housing and chute, grease the bearings, install impeller rubber, and I am so very tired of skid plates, hitting the lifting edges of the sidewalks in my old and tired development. So wheels are the answer! Isn't it? I hope.

I'm going to attach the wheels to a plate of steel and install them where the skid plates are.

I may put ball bearings on one machine, and roller blade wheels on the other two, and swivel on a fourth.

Please comment on my following concerns and thoughts.

Ball Bearings - I'm concerned that the ball bearings will rust then they won't roll but because the outside surface is smooth they will slide anyway. And because of the slick surface, when moving the snowblower to the side, they will easily slide with the machine.

Roller Blade Wheels - My concern because of the material, the height, and the narrowness, they may not slide sideways easily, and because of the narrowness they may break when going sideways.

Swivel Wheels - Thinking seeing what Harbor Freight has in the way of swivel wheels, using the smallest diameter they have. I'm thinking I'm going to have to install these on the two back corners of the auger housing. Still will be adjustable though I'm not exactly sure how. They have to be maintained and well greased to prevent locking. The advantage the blower will turn on a dime so easily. I'm concerned that when going into especially deep or hard snow the front of the blower will be pushed sideways especially after the first pass where there is no resistance of snow next to it since you've cleared that first pass.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

J, 
you already had an active thread on this topic. (this thread, the one you are reading now)
the post above was its own, separate, new thread..
no need to two threads, so I merged your new post into this thread..
thanks,
Scot


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## wow08816 (Feb 2, 2017)

Bearing in picture are 12 years old. Bearing rust is not really an issue if you maintain them with WD40. The nut holding the bearing incurred a little rust over the years.


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## Jamie Ewing (Mar 18, 2018)

Thanks very much! 

Was looking into how to stop my handle going into my groin because of uneven sidewalks and driveways, lol. 

Keep up the great work!!


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

Jamie, I made my first set a while ago. It's easy to make and for long paved areas they work great!


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I like the rollerblade wheel idea. 

I put plastic caster wheels on my Toro 521 in place of the skids. After a couple of seasons with them, they seem fine.

My Toro PowerShift, when in the 'shifted' mode puts about 90 lbs. on the bucket. You can do pull-ups on the handle bars and the bucket will not raise. With the standard skids, the amount of friction, even with snow, puts up a fair amount of resistance to forward movement. So, my thoughts are to put some small wheels in place of the skids.

In order to minimize the amount of fabrication needed, my plan is to use one of the existing bolt holes that attached the existing skids, for the axle bolt of the wheel. In measuring the height of the bolt off of the ground currently with the skids, it is about 1:05" on center. So a 2.25" wheel/caster would do the trick. Since 2.25" is an odd size, and looking at some of the ideas posted in this tread, I came up with this design using sealed bearings.









In order to get the I.D. down to a decent size for the mounting hardware, I decided to use a bearing within a bearing, getting the I.D. down to 0.5" where a spacer can be used along with a 3/8" bolt to form an axle that is tight to the side of the bucket. Just got to order the parts & hardware and see how it goes.

*EDIT: Looks like I messed up on the bearing sizes, so the bearings #'s will be a bit different than the drawing shows.*


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I think I have the bearings correct now . . . had to go to metric sizes to get the proper fit of the 2 bearings. lain:


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Still going good on my ST1027 with auto turn kit installed, May source some stainless bearings for it though, Look in rough shape on the outer race with surface rust but turn just fine.


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## J_ph (Dec 17, 2013)

I have height adjustable mower wheels on mine. it's the adjustable height that I like, not necessarily the wheels even though the wheels work fine. Going from sidewalk to gravel the height requirements are different and the adjustment is quick. If there was an skid option with a quick height adjustment I would probably give that a try ... I can already hear people running to the patent office


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I got all the parts and hardware needed to do the 'wheels' on the Toro Powershift









I was originally going to use 3/8" bolts and related hardware, but opted for 5/16" because the spacer for 5/16" would fit inside the small bearing inner race.









I need a bit more 'meat' to secure the bolts as axles than what the sheet metal of the bucket could provide. so, I flipped the old skids upside down and installed the 5/16" bolt through both bucket side and the skid.

Here is a picture of the bearing wheel installed









With the rear wheel/axle 'shifted' back, there is about 90 lbs of weight on the bucket, so the new wheels allow the machine to roll nicely in this mode. With the skids alone, it is a bit of a push to get the machine to move forward.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Wow, I didn't realize how much weight the PowerShifts put on the bucket, in that mode! That sure ought to help hold the nose down  Glad the bearings/wheels can help out!


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## RobertHan (Feb 23, 2021)

In my opinion, when buying skateboard wheels, it’s essential to look for relatively softer or within the 78a-88a durometer range as they are known to be better at resisting impact. Softer wheels also provide you better grip and can dramatically reduce vibration from the board. They’re extra bouncy for a more energized ride too.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

RobertHan, your first post and you have educated and made an interesting and valued contribution. Thank you. 

I didn't know that. I know rubber has a hardness factor. I have roller skate wheels, is there a variety of hardnesses for them? Since I have them, I'm going to use them regardless how long they last.

No more skids for my machines. I am TIRED of uneven sidewalks. I'm going wheels.


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## RobertHan (Feb 23, 2021)

JLawrence08648 said:


> RobertHan, your first post and you have educated and made an interesting and valued contribution. Thank you.
> 
> I didn't know that. I know rubber has a hardness factor. I have roller skate wheels, is there a variety of hardnesses for them? Since I have them, I'm going to use them regardless how long they last.
> 
> No more skids for my machines. I am TIRED of uneven sidewalks. I'm going wheels.


A durometer is the measurement of the hardness of the wheel. Same with the diameter, the bigger the size, the harder the wheel will be. The best durometer by professionals is the 99a. They use a 100-point scale to measure it. Some manufacturers measure by using a B Scale, so the measurements are 20 points lower.

To make everything clear for you, here’s a durometer scale comparison:

78a – 87a: Soft wheels for rough terrain. Perfect for longboard riders.
88a – 95a: Harder and faster when used, but has less grip
96a – 99a: Good grip and speed while riding, despite it being hard.
101a – Up: The hardest ones and fastest with the least grip among these durometers.
83b – 84b: High speed and super hard wheels with very minimal grip.
If you love skateboarding, I suggest the softer ones.


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