# white cream like in oil



## rford2222 (Dec 18, 2013)

*oil gunk*

Not sure if this is normal - but when i was checking the oil after running 3 to 4 days ago, i noticed it the color is golden, but there is also a thick white, the more times i checked it, the less it is. Is it something i should be concerned about? Should i run it for awhile then check it. I am a newbie, so I appreciate any information. thank you


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## rford2222 (Dec 18, 2013)

I was checking my oil & there was a white cream like substance. I checked the oil cold. I checked it a couple more times & there was less. Not sure if i should be concerned?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I believe a white foam indicates moisture in the oil.

Merged your Ariens thread and your Repairs thread together since they are the same. This would be an engine issue and not an Ariens issue so I moved them to the repair forum.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

some times moisture can get in the engine threw the carb or breather.It can build up over the summer in the engine or snow. Best thing to do is to warm up the engine and then change the oil. No big deal. Now if your car does it you have a big trouble as it indicates a coolent leak, in a snow blower no big deal but you should change the oil.


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## rford2222 (Dec 18, 2013)

this is a dumb question but any recommendations on removing the oil dipstick it is so tight


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Welcome to the forum rford! It would help us if we knew what engine you have. . Pictures are helpful too if you can manage it. There are not too many problems that at least a few of the members have run into at some point.


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## rford2222 (Dec 18, 2013)

ariens model 921 - tucemseh


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## rford2222 (Dec 18, 2013)

model 921005


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

If you've had moisture in your oil, I would say that the problem with the dipstick might be corrosion, either of the tube, or the dipstick, or both. A little TLC with fine steel wool and WD40 or similar. I would be careful if doing this to the tube, not to get any junk down the tube and into the engine.


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## rford2222 (Dec 18, 2013)

should i try to just run it then check it later? As you can probably tell i am not that famaliar & dont want to cause any bigger problems.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

Unless there's a LOT of it, I'd run it to get it warm, and change the oil. Oil is cheap so change it often.


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## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

Here is how this works. Milky oil is pretty much water related. A very small amount of water in the oil from condensation will evaporate out quickly when the oil gets hot. Because the engine is air cooled it is very unlikely that there is a means for a large amount of water to get into the oil. If there is water entering from snow melt or some other means I would want to know where the source is. 

Tecumsehs I understand will grenade quickly due to not enough oil. I have no idea if this means that they are intolerant to water as well but I'd change the oil for sure. Keep an eye on the new oil. If you get more water in there then we need to figure out the source.


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## rford2222 (Dec 18, 2013)

i appreciate all the information. I tried to to take the bolt off to drain the oil, but it so tight the whole metal piece is moving.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

It's messy, but just yank the whole metal thing, and it'll be easier to get the cap off the pipe. Then put teflon tape or sealer on the pipe and screw it in tight, and put the cap back a little less tight.


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## Runner50 (Jan 21, 2013)

rford2222 said:


> i appreciate all the information. I tried to to take the bolt off to drain the oil, but it so tight the whole metal piece is moving.


I ran into the same thing when I changed the oil. I used pliers with a scrap piece of leather to secure the pipe. The leather will keep the jaws from marring or digging into the pipe, which you don't want to do. With that secure, the cap will come off w/o the pipe moving. Then do as suggested & wrap the threads with teflon tape or sealer before re-installing it. 
Do it this way & avoid the mess of draining the oil with the pipe removed.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Not sure if this is the issue or not, but it could be:
If a snowblower is stored outdoors, uncovered, when its not in use, and it gets rained and snowed on, that could be where the water in the oil is coming from..If you dont have a garage or shed to keep it under cover, then at the minimum the whole thing should be covered with a tarp when not in use.

Scot


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

i just went though this yesterday with the 521r, water in the oil. could have been condensation but there was lots of it. did an oil change, started the motor and let it run. shut it down and the oil was still milky so i drained the oil then went to autozone and got the cheapest bottle of 5w30 and a bottle of mobile1 5w30. flushed the engine with the cheap bottle of 5w30 then lost the drain plug but clean oil came out so i think i got all the water this time. once i get a drain plug i'll fill it with the mobile1


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If it's milky there is too much water in the oil. Adding Seafoam or an actual engine cleaner (flush) will help clean out the engine. You only want to use about a fifth of the product. Drain a little oil if you need to get some chemical in and let it idle up to temp. Let it drain well and change.

You might want to check to see if you can notice any unusual oil leaks. Something like a leaking O ring at the bottom of the dipstick tube. If an engines breathing system is getting clogged it can cause a vacuum in the engine as it goes from hot to cold and will suck in moisture any place there is a gap.


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