# Crafstman 536.88180 need to adjust height adjusting skids and scraper blade



## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Hello,

This year I replaced the scraper blade and skids on my Craftsman 536.88180.

For the skids, I used these,
Height Adjusting Skid, Replaces 1740718HMA, 1740718AYP, 780061MA ($5)
https://www.amazon.com/1740718HMA-1740718AYP-780061MA-Murray-Craftsman/dp/B003YOPJJ6

This was a mistake. I didn't want to pay $15 each, but these really don't fit. The lip is the same size on both sides, so the skid won't sit properly. I used a 5lb hammer and an anvil to pound one of the lips flat so now it fits. It's a bit of a bush fix, but I think it's ok.

The scraper blade was almost gone altogether, so I replaced it with,
Scraper Blade 1740949BMYP ($15)
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Scraper-Blade/1740949BMYP/2986692
The scraper looks fine as far as I can tell.

I also replaced all of the carriage bolts with these,
Carriage bolts, Stainless steel 18-8, 5/16"-18 (27 cents)
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?Units=US&Category=Nuts&Subcategory=Hex_nuts&Dimensional_standard=&Material=Stainless_steel&Plating=&Grade=18--8&Finish=&Thread_direction=Right_hand&Thread_density=Coarse&Diameter=5%2f16%22&Thread_count=18&nv=rel
Hex nuts, Stainless steel 18-8, 5/16"-18 (10 cents)
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-D...=Coarse&Diameter=5/16"&Thread_count=18&nv=rel

I couldn't believe what vendors were charging for these bolts when sold as a snowblower part. Sears wanted $4 each for the bolts and another $2 each for the nuts. That's $50 to replace all 8, and they were not even stainless. some sites wanted as much as $8 per bolt. Anyway, this bolt depot is one of the best places I have done business with. No java script to get their site to work, no need to create an account to order, $5 shipping and the parts were here the next day (they are actually close to me).

At any rate, after replacing all of this hardware, the plow is not scraping well at all. It is bouncing along getting caught on everything and it very hard to control. I used a straight edge to make sure that the scraper was at the same level as the skids and I'm not really sure what else to do.

Can anyone let me know how to go about adjusting these parts to get the ride a bit smoother and let the scraper do a good job cleaning up? Should the scraper be lower than the skids? Is the problem the cheep skids I used?

I need a little advice here from someone who has done this many times.

Thanks,

*LMHmedchem*


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

I set the shoes with the scrapper bar having a little gap to the ground. You can use paint sticks and or a piece of brown cardboard box.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Motor City said:


> I set the shoes with the scrapper bar having a little gap to the ground. You can use paint sticks and or a piece of brown cardboard box.



Right on the money. Set a small gap between the scraper and ground (eg paint sticks) and set your skids on the ground - done.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Motor City said:


> I set the shoes with the scrapper bar having a little gap to the ground. You can use paint sticks and or a piece of brown cardboard box.


I adjusted the skids and scraper with the handle on the ground and the scoop up in the air because it was easier to work with like that. I had to cut off some of the old bolts and such and just positioned it so I could get to everything. I guess I should have thought of putting the scoop back on the ground to adjust the final height.

Do you think the skids I used will work or should I try to get the proper part?

Thanks for the tip.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

LMHmedchem said:


> I adjusted the skids and scraper with the handle on the ground and the scoop up in the air because it was easier to work with like that. I had to cut off some of the old bolts and such and just positioned it so I could get to everything. I guess I should have thought of putting the scoop back on the ground to adjust the final height.
> 
> Do you think the skids I used will work or should I try to get the proper part?
> 
> ...


I put the same skids on a machine I flip'd. But I just picked up another and ordered the same skids, yours should use. Their pretty pricey. But if it was my machine, I'd order the correct ones. The other skids seem to small for that machine.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Hate to say it, but stainless steel nuts and bolts can be a real problem if the threads gaul. 

You might be better to use cheap bolts and nuts so that if they rust solid, you will be able to break them off or twist them off. 

That won't work with a seized stainless fastener. Those things are tough.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I have been using paint sticks under the scraper bar for 20 years at least. Put a couple sticks lengthwise under the scraper bar, loosen the skid bolts and let the skids drop down.Tighten the skid bolts while making sure the skid is flat on the ground. Remove paint sticks and begin blowing snow


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

micah68kj said:


> I have been using paint sticks under the scraper bar for 20 years at least. Put a couple sticks lengthwise under the scraper bar, loosen the skid bolts and let the skids drop down.Tighten the skid bolts while making sure the skid is flat on the ground. Remove paint sticks and begin blowing snow


One thing I see has NOT been mentioned here. Prior to scraper bar/skid shoe adjustments, It's of utmost importance to inflate tire to correct PSI first. The relation of the scraper bar to the skid shoes is based off the position from the rear tires. If the scraper bar is adjusted with under inflated tires, then when you fill the tires to proper psi, you'll throw the gap off on the scraper bar. I top off the air every year prior to first use. Baring any wear from the previous years use my scraper bar is always on the money.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Motor City said:


> I put the same skids on a machine I flip'd. But I just picked up another and ordered the same skids, yours should use. Their pretty pricey. But if it was my machine, I'd order the correct ones. The other skids seem to small for that machine.


Do you have a recommendation for a site to buy the skid from? The best price I can find is $40 with shipping,
Murray 309016E701MA Height Adjuster Skid | eBay

That seems an awful lot for $2 worth of steel.



skutflut said:


> Hate to say it, but stainless steel nuts and bolts can be a real problem if the threads gaul.
> 
> You might be better to use cheap bolts and nuts so that if they rust solid, you will be able to break them off or twist them off.
> 
> That won't work with a seized stainless fastener. Those things are tough.


I actually cut of the original bolts with an angle grinder. I always find that to be the fastest method if I have access. I would use a torch other wise but I'm not sure how well that would work on stainless. 

Do you know what kind of steel was use for the OE parts? Since the OE parts seem to run $2.50-$8.00 per bolt, I would probably just keep using stainless and replace them every two years or so. Where would you recommenced getting bolts from?



all3939 said:


> One thing I see has NOT been mentioned here. Prior to scraper bar/skid shoe adjustments, It's of utmost importance to inflate tire to correct PSI first. The relation of the scraper bar to the skid shoes is based off the position from the rear tires. If the scraper bar is adjusted with under inflated tires, then when you fill the tires to proper psi, you'll throw the gap off on the scraper bar. I top off the air every year prior to first use. Baring any wear from the previous years use my scraper bar is always on the money.


Thanks, that is a good tip. I actually have no idea what the correct tire pressure is. I usually just step on the tires and see if they are soft. If they are, I add a little air from my compressor. I guess that's not such a good idea.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

I bought from this person, on Ebay. I know, they are ridiculous in price. But their aren't much choices on shoes, with 2in on center, for the bolts.

OEM Snowblower Skid With Hardware fits Sears Craftsman / Murray 309016E701MA | eBay


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

LMHmedchem said:


> Thanks, that is a good tip. I actually have no idea what the correct tire pressure is. I usually just step on the tires and see if they are soft. If they are, I add a little air from my compressor. I guess that's not such a good idea.
> 
> *LMHmedchem*


I have a10 year old compact in near mint condition as I take care of my equipment. The tire side wall says 22 psi and 22psi it gets.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

LMHmedchem said:


> Do you have a recommendation for a site to buy the skid from? The best price I can find is $40 with shipping,
> Murray 309016E701MA Height Adjuster Skid | eBay
> 
> 
> ...


Proper Tire pressure is usually embossed on the side of the tire itself. Take a look there, or in the manual if you have it. if they are big xtrac or snowhogs, probably between 14-18 lbs.


I get skid bolts from the hardware store, about a buck each, nuts are 50 cents. Just galvanized steel carriage bolts with square shoulder to fit the holes in the bucket, and a round head. I also smear some grease on them once in a while, and the current set have lasted 6 years, still come loose when needed. OE parts are always overpriced, because of the handling required to get them from a bin in a parts warehouse to you.

Remember this is not a high precision application. 

Just for added info, if you want to spend some money on skid shoes, try the armor skids listed in this forum. I put on a set this year, after the originals finally wore out, and the machine steers better, and doesn't catch on uneven sidewalk joints anymore. They are about twice as long as stock skids, and the tips stick out beyond the bucket about 1/2 inch (on mine anyway) and the tip angle is much shallower so you don't get jolted by cracks. I was also able to lower the scraper blade down to about 1/16" without catching on anything.

These things are also about twice as thick as the originals, so I would expect they will last twice as long before they get ground down to needing replacement.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

Several years back I put these ARMOR skids on. The best skid you can find because it protects the front edge of the bucket all while it makes it easier on various uneven protrusions you come across while snowblowing.
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## Ballroomblitz (Nov 20, 2015)

Excellent discussion.

Never thought about the Stainless Steel hardware and potentially being a bugger to remove when rusted, initial thought was they would take an incredible long time to rust seeing they are stainless but thinking about it now likely not the best material for this application. So going to try galvanized hardware instead, very easy to grind off with an angle grinder if needed.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GMorning, All Good suggestions so far...But I'll add my .02. I sell a fair amount of used machines, so cost is a factor also. I use the cheap 5/16 x 1/2" carriage bolts, from a hardware store, as they are soft and will wear down quickly when the new owner does absolutely NO maintenance to the machine. When it comes time to adjust or replace the scraper bar, I don't bother trying to 'save' the carriage bolts. I simply tighten them a 1/2 turn and snap them off. I stock and always replace the bolts. it's not worth my time trying to save $3 in hardware. Same with the 3/8" bolts holding on the shoes. NEVER buy the overpriced 'OEM' hardware. The OEM's build machines, not hardware. They buy hardware in bulk. Setting tire pressure (With a gauge, not a Foot, (sorry))is the critical first 'Step'.


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## amuller (Jan 3, 2016)

If the original skids aren't too far gone, it's usually not hard to weld a new piece of steel to the bottom. The steel strap can be hardware store/home center material.

You may need to do some experimenting to find the best height for your skids.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Sorry for the delay in response and thank you for the helpful suggestions. I am having trouble getting it running at the moment so the skids are my second issue until I see if I need a new carb.

*LMHmedchem*


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

I have the new carb on and have it running again. :icon-cheers:

I also have the tires at the correct inflation and used the paint stirring sticks to set the height of my current skids. Since it looks like I will not be replacing this immediately, can someone post a link for the Armor skids that were suggested in an earlier post. The post referenced this site, but I can't seem to find what they were referring to. They do appear on Amazon, but I'm not sure they are the same thing or what a good price is.

Thanks,

*LMHmedchem*


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

Remember, the bolt slots have to be 2 inches on center


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## JD in NJ (Dec 21, 2016)

ArmorSkids are available directly from snowblowerskids.com


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

JD in NJ said:


> ArmorSkids are available directly from snowblowerskids.com


Thanks, I ordered a set today from them. I always like doing business directly with the part manufacturer when possible.

I ordered a set of part ASE2475-A, 2" spacing, based on the Make & Model Chart at snowblowerskids.com.

The site makes this comment,

"Slots are designed to have a slightly loose fit on a 5/16 bolt. If you have a 3/8 bolt, note that you will need to slightly modify the bolt to mount in the narrower slot."

I think that my hardware is 3/8". Does anyone know what "slightly modify" refers to in the message above and if that is something I will need to deal with?

I gave the cheap skids one more try after I had adjusted the height according to the suggestions here. Handling was still pretty dreadful. Those skids are just not big enough and the ends are not smooth. I have allot of uneven sidewalks and such so I am looking forward to skids that work better for that kind of thing.

*LMHmedchem*


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

LMHmedchem said:


> Thanks, I ordered a set today from them. I always like doing business directly with the part manufacturer when possible.
> 
> I ordered a set of part ASE2475-A, 2" spacing, based on the Make & Model Chart at snowblowerskids.com.
> 
> ...


You may need to file a bit to widen the slot for a easier fit with 3/8'' hardware. Try to fit them and see where they need the modification if at all. No big deal except for the fact that you're removing some of the black finish. You can always hit it with the spry can when all fit right.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

all3939 said:


> You may need to file a bit to widen the slot for a easier fit with 3/8'' hardware. Try to fit them and see where they need the modification if at all. No big deal except for the fact that you're removing some of the black finish. You can always hit it with the spry can when all fit right.


I don't have any washers on at the moment because there were none with the stock shoes. Should I add some washers or is it fine without them? 

Also, the snowblowerskids.com mentioned that spacers were necessary in some cases. Is that something I will run into with this model if anyone knows?

*LMHmedchem*


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

I got my armor skids today and went to put them on. The skids go back so far that they run under the scraper blade. Is this the proper way to mount them? This would lift the scraper blade off of the ground by the thickness of the shoes, which is ~1/4" or maybe a bit more. This is more clearance than I got from using the paint sticks.

It seems that a number of users here have these skids so I am wondering what the proper mounting position is. Do I grind out a 1/8" notch from the bottom of the scraper blade so the shoes sit a bit higher, or do I leave it like it is.

It does look like I need some washers so I will pick up some washers and star washers because I think I will get a more solid attachment.

*LMHmedchem*


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Can you post some pictures of the sides of your bucket and the mounting holes? Curious about the position of the holes with respect to the armor skid geometry. Also a photo of the scraper bar. Use the highest resolution you can and get some light on them so we can see the details.

The skids should not be under the scraper bar but facing out from the sides of the bucket. I'm trying to figure out if the mounting holes on your bucket are positioned such that the armor skids won't line up front to back. If the bucket sides are not flat under the armor skids, you might have to add shims between the bucket and the skids to give them a flat surface to attach to. 

They armor skids are long, and should project past the front of the bucket somewhat. That's the feature that gets you over the uneven patches without jolting to a stop and dinging up the scraper and the front of the bucket edges. If they are too far back, and not extending past the front edge, you might have to drill new mounting holes to get them better centered on the bucket sides. 

The skids are also fairly tall, so unless the mounting holes are is a really strange place, there should be enough up and down travel space to get the skids set to give the 1/8' space under the scraper bar, unless the scraper bar is set way too low, and I can't see how it could possibly be set that low.

Washers should always be used to prevent gouging the paint on the skids when tightening. Turning the bolts directly against the skids will scratch them up, plus you don't get even pressure on the larger area without the washers.

I have attached a photo of a Craftsman Craftsman - 536.881800 machine (a very similar part number to yours), *which I borrowed from snowblowerskids.com*. Hope it shows the way yours is, and shows you what you need to see.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

If you have the design with multiple slots you should be able to orient the skids more forward by offsetting the mounting position by not using the two most center slots.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Well I mounted the skids the other way with the lip turned under the scoop and not out like in the picture posted above.

If I turn them out, then there won't be any problem with the scraper bar. The will make my snowblower almost 3" wider and that could be a problem in a few places.

I will post some pictures tomorrow. They look good the way they are on right now and I ran the machine over some bad uneven spots today and it went right over. It seems like it would look better if I just cut a 1/8" notch in each end of the scraper, but that is allot of work and I guess I should just try turning them around. 

They didn't come with any instructions so I just put them on with the lip turned under like the original skids. I did add washers and star washers because the slots are a bit wider than the carriage bolts and it was clear that using the nut alone would not result in a good seat. Now that I think of it, I'm not sure which end of the skids is supposed to be the front. One end it thinner than the other and at the moment, I think I have the thin end toward the back.

It was 60 degrees today, so it was a good day to go out and do some work. It's going to be 15 degrees tomorrow, so of course I got them on backwards and will have to do the fix in not so nice weather.

*LMHmedchem*


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

It seems to me that you don't know the way this gets installed. I have never seen skids installed inwards meaning as you have mentioned, under the bucket. I'm quite sure that's wrong and they need to be oriented with the lip as you call it outwards adding a bit of width to the bucket dimensions.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

LMHmedchem said:


> Well I mounted the skids the other way with the lip turned under the scoop and not out like in the picture posted above.
> 
> If I turn them out, then there won't be any problem with the scraper bar. The will make my snowblower almost 3" wider and that could be a problem in a few places.
> 
> ...



You need to install them as per the picture. That will add about 2" to the width, but the original shoes probably added about 1.5" anyway. At least you have a smooth edge running against whatever border you are working up to, instead of having two bolts scraping against it which will probably grind off the bolt ends over time.

The narrow end of the skid should be forward if you are working on reasonably smooth ground such as asphalt or concrete. If your working on gravel or really lumpy ground, which I think you mentioned is your situation, mount them with the wide end forward. This info is on the web site. Narrow end forward is supposed to improve tracking and somehow help keep the front end down when hitting the EOD pile.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GAfternoon 3939, Many of the Craftsman have the shoes mounted with the Fat side UNDER the bucket. It threw me off the first time I saw it too. Just LOOKS wrong, but is indeed is the way they are set up. I had a JD branded machine here today set up that way also. I haven't tried the Armor skids yet, but will order a set just to see the design, as they look fantastic. ESPECIALLY when they would protect so many of the lightweight buckets out there now. GLuck, J


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