# Tecumseh carb help



## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

Hi guys. I have an older ariens snowblower with a tecumseh carb. I bought this kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141483704268

Anyways, carb kit is in and the sb starts. I have to prime and choke every time. At full throttle 3500rpms, if you engage the auger, it bogs and dies. If you operate the choke back and forth, it and engage the auger you can get it to keep running. Eventually it dies. 

It runs fine with no auger. It idles ok but tries to die if you throttle it up. 


I've played with both screws and can't get it figured out. 

Ideas?


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

TOTHEMAX said:


> Hi guys. I have an older ariens snowblower with a tecumseh carb. I bought this kit:
> 
> Carb Kit for Tecumseh Jiffy Ice Auger Model 30 and 31 Kit | eBay
> 
> ...


 1.5 turns out should get you in the ballpark. If it stalls when you engage the auger it is probably lean. Make sure you have good fuel flow to the carb. make sure the float is working correctly and check for vaccume leaks.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Sounds like a lean condition. Why did you rebuild the carb in the first place? Reason I'm asking is there may be other issues. Are you sure there's no air leak, maybe around the intake gasket? Float level too high, not allowing the needle valve to open all the way? Did you clean ALL the holes out in the mixture screw?
Another thing. You can buy a new carb for about 20 bucks. Just installed one of them on a hm80 and it runs fine. Just did put it on a few days ago.


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

You may have an issue with auger bearings, bent impeller shaft, etc. that is causing an abnormal load. Generally an engine will not stall engaging the auger if it is running at wide open throttle. With the engine off and the spark plug cable off, reach inside the chute and turn the impeller by hand. It should turn freely as should the impeller. If you feel it binding, you have a mechanical issue. MH


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

Thanks guys. Carb was super gummed up and wouldnt start.

New fuel line and spark plug.

I put the card in a ultrasonic cleaner for days and ran it multiple time. All screws were removed and it was completely apart.

I'll check the main auger to see if it's free.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

The auger moves but it is stiff. I will take it apart today and see what is binding it up.

The carb leaked fuel out of it overnight. frustrating as its got a new kit in it.....


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

micah68kj said:


> Sounds like a lean condition. Why did you rebuild the carb in the first place? Reason I'm asking is there may be other issues. Are you sure there's no air leak, maybe around the intake gasket? Float level too high, not allowing the needle valve to open all the way? Did you clean ALL the holes out in the mixture screw?
> Another thing. You can buy a new carb for about 20 bucks. Just installed one of them on a hm80 and it runs fine. Just did put it on a few days ago.


Link to the carb you bought?


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

TOTHEMAX said:


> The carb leaked fuel out of it overnight. frustrating as its got a new kit in it.....


Assuming it's a float type carb, you're at the needlevalve area. If the seal isn't good or installed incorrectly or the float is at the wrong height that can happen.
There can also be crap behind the welch plugs that can mess it up when the engine is running.

Just some thoughts.

PS I like to add a gasline shutoff valve on my machines. Prevents that accidental leakage from happening.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

There is no float. It's a diaphragm style carb. Can i convert it?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Could you post the numbers off your engine so we know what your working with? This is a single stage snow blower? What model?


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

Will do when I get home


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)




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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

You can get a brand spankin' new carb for about $20.. From ebay. Bolt it on and light it up.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

micah68kj said:


> You can get a brand spankin' new carb for about $20.. From ebay. Bolt it on and light it up.


I skimmed through Tecumseh snowblower carbs on ebay but couldnt find this one. What is the part #?


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

There should be numbers on the top of that carb. Should be next to the manifold.

We could use some more info here. This is a single stage blower with a two cycle engine? More pics? One of the blower? Model number of the blower itself?


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Partstree says obsolete.
Looks like you can get a'float type carb it possibly. Part # 297A?


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

micah68kj said:


> There should be numbers on the top of that carb. Should be next to the manifold.
> 
> We could use some more info here. This is a single stage blower with a two cycle engine? More pics? One of the blower? Model number of the blower itself?


Its a 2 stage blower with a 4 stroke engine. Ill have to search for a model # on the snowblower.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I have the same carb on my old Toro S200 single stage. Look on the face of the carb near the choke plate for a stamped letter "F". If an "F" is present, the diaphragm goes on the carb body, then the gasket, then the cover plate. If no "F" , gasket goes on carb body, then the diaphragm, then the cover plate. The correct assembly is critical to operation.

The carb screw closest to the engine is the low speed adjustment and is set to give best running at idle speed. The screw nearest the choke plate is the high speed adjustment and is set to give best running at full throttle. Set the low speed first, around 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Below are some service manuals to help.

Engine Parts list-
http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/Tecumseh/H30-35359P.pdf
Engine Service Manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf
Carb Diaphragm Install for TYPE-F Carb-
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Jacks-Parts-Lookup/Model-Diagram/TECUMSEH/127901/55063
Carb Service-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehcarburetormanual.pdf


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

Grunt said:


> I have the same carb on my old Toro S200 single stage. Look on the face of the carb near the choke plate for a stamped letter "F". If an "F" is present, the diaphragm goes on the carb body, then the gasket, then the cover plate. If no "F" , gasket goes on carb body, then the diaphragm, then the cover plate. The correct assembly is critical to operation.
> 
> The carb screw closest to the engine is the low speed adjustment and is set to give best running at idle speed. The screw nearest the choke plate is the high speed adjustment and is set to give best running at full throttle. Set the low speed first, around 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Below are some service manuals to help.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I have the diaphragm set correctly. Didnt know about that till I read about it in the tech manual. 

I think Ill end up getting a new carb. This one was so gummed up who knows if I got all the crud out. 

I just have to see if I can retro fit one of the float and bowl carbs onto it.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

TOTHEMAX said:


> Thanks. I have the diaphragm set correctly. Didnt know about that till I read about it in the tech manual.
> 
> 
> I just have to see if I can retro fit one of the float and bowl carbs onto it.


In my last pic up above the diagram shows a float type'carb. Also shows a diaphragm carb so ther must be one out there somewhere. Hope you find it. Let us know what happens.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

heres your part






i would not put 95 bucks into a twenty something year old engine, for that price by a predator


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

TOTHEMAX said:


> Thanks. I have the diaphragm set correctly. Didnt know about that till I read about it in the tech manual.
> 
> I think Ill end up getting a new carb. This one was so gummed up who knows if I got all the crud out.
> 
> I just have to see if I can retro fit one of the float and bowl carbs onto it.


Before investing in a replacement carb.....why not soak the carb in carb cleaner available at NAPA.....it's a gallon can, you remove as many jets and ports as you can......then soak it for few hours......rinse in water.....blow it clean.....reassemble.....I did it on mine.....worked great.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

TOTHEMAX said:


> Thanks guys. Carb was super gummed up and wouldnt start.
> 
> New fuel line and spark plug.
> 
> ...





RoyP said:


> Before investing in a replacement carb.....why not soak the carb in carb cleaner available at NAPA.....it's a gallon can, you remove as many jets and ports as you can......then soak it for few hours......rinse in water.....blow it clean.....reassemble.....I did it on mine.....worked great.


*Read post #5*


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

43128 said:


> heres your part
> 
> Tecumseh Carburetor Carb 631993 Toro S200 s 200 S620 s 620 Ariens 2 2 New | eBay
> 
> i would not put 95 bucks into a twenty something year old engine, for that price by a predator


Thanks for the numbers. I am not going to spend that kind of money on a carb but I may be able to find a 20$ substitute.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

Would something like this work?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

It might work or it might not??? 
Before ordering another carb, remove the fuel line from your carb and make sure you have good gas flow from the tank. The rubber fuel line may have collapsed and is blocking good flow.

Another thing to try, loosen the gas cap when it starts to sputter to check for a bad cap vent. Are you sure the gaskets on the intake manifold are good? Spray a little carb cleaner around the gasket areas, if the engine tempo changes, you found your air leak.

Your engine has the symptoms of running to lean, something is preventing the gas flow to or within the carb.

I seen a video of OUR favorite mechanic, donyboy73, on Youtube, where he said he spent five hours removing and re cleaning a carb like yours on a Toro S200. If HE had that much trouble, what is our chance of getting it right the first time.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

Grunt said:


> It might work or it might not???
> Before ordering another carb, remove the fuel line from your carb and make sure you have good gas flow from the tank. The rubber fuel line may have collapsed and is blocking good flow.
> 
> Another thing to try, loosen the gas cap when it starts to sputter to check for a bad cap vent. Are you sure the gaskets on the intake manifold are good? Spray a little carb cleaner around the gasket areas, if the engine tempo changes, you found your air leak.
> ...


Tried those and it still persists. I cant find a replacement carb for under 80$ with that number. I can however, find tons of the bowl style for around 20... 

I am seriously debating if it will work or not.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

TOTHEMAX said:


> Tried those and it still persists. I cant find a replacement carb for under 80$ with that number. I can however, find tons of the bowl style for around 20...
> 
> I am seriously debating if it will work or not.


I've never had a diaphragm carb on anything other than a 2 stroke trimmer or leaf blower. The top of this carb sure looks like the top of a Tecumseh bowl/float type.
If it were me...and I was convinced it was a carb issue...I'd try it.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I'd have some concerns about the swapability of the choke hardware (red) to retain this rotary knob setup. This hardware is also used to support the carb heater box.


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## suspicionofignorance2 (Jan 26, 2014)

I'm confused too...Is this a small 2 stroke eng ? Post 6 says the auger moves but was stiff...has that been looked at ? If a small single stage...that could be a problem..


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

Here's what I would do, and I love this sort of thing. I'd buy bowl style carb off ebay. Get one with the right fuel inlet, straight or right angled. I've found they tend to keep things similar so your choke linkage should fit fine, or take just a little modification. Similarly the choke shaft sizes should match so you should be able to swap in your shaft and plate to work with your choke setup. The only fly in the ointment is the little spring that holds choke position. You might have to clip it off and rig something up.

First I'd try and fix the original because I'm cheap and I always learn a little something when I do.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

dbert said:


> I'd have some concerns about the swapability of the choke hardware (red) to retain this rotary knob setup. This hardware is also used to support the carb heater box.


I know I would have to rig up something custom. I'm to the point where I dont care as I want this project done and over with.



suspicionofignorance2 said:


> I'm confused too...Is this a small 2 stroke eng ? Post 6 says the auger moves but was stiff...has that been looked at ? If a small single stage...that could be a problem..


I thought I answered that, maybe I didnt. Its a 4 stroke. Its a 2 stage SB. I looked at the auger and with the belt off it moves just fine. I think its just the tension on the belt when its installed.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

nt40lanman said:


> Here's what I would do, and I love this sort of thing. I'd buy bowl style carb off ebay. Get one with the right fuel inlet, straight or right angled. I've found they tend to keep things similar so your choke linkage should fit fine, or take just a little modification. Similarly the choke shaft sizes should match so you should be able to swap in your shaft and plate to work with your choke setup. The only fly in the ointment is the little spring that holds choke position. You might have to clip it off and rig something up.
> 
> First I'd try and fix the original because I'm cheap and I always learn a little something when I do.


Thanks. I'm going to order one today.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

Ok I have a question regarding another motor with this carb. I hit the primer and it will not push fuel into the intake. You have to give it a shot of ether to start. I removed the bottom of the carb and you can push air into the hole that feeds the intake. When you hit the primer no fuel goes through that port, but it back flows into the tank. Path of least resistance. What's going on here?


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

I just removed the carb and what I thought was a port, wasn't. Not sure why I thought I heard air passing into the intake. 

Put it back together and it fired up. Ran fur a while and then I shut it off. Restart took a few primes and pulls but it started. I'll try again when cold.


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## TOTHEMAX (Dec 7, 2014)

TOTHEMAX said:


> Thanks. I'm going to order one today.


So I bought a bowl style off ebay. Installed it and it fired up on the 3rd pull. After some minor tuning the snow blower ran like a champ.


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