# Backing with new Platinum 24??



## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

I was pretty happy with my new blower that I bought last year after finally getting it back from the dealer. A new blower housing was put on it as the original one turned out to be set on it wrong. At any rate, I got to use it yesterday for the first time this winter. What I noticed was, when I try to back up with it over the end of the drive where there is about a 1 and 1/2 inch drop from the cement to the gravel, the tires would hit the cement and just sit there. Tires didn't even seem to attempt to turn and crawl up the cement without me pulling back on the machine a little harder than I think I should have to. Shouldn't those tires keep turning when they strike a small barrier like this and climb up and over it?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

First tell us, do you raise your front end when backing up the cement step?


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

Normex said:


> First tell us, do you raise your front end when backing up the cement step?


Yes, slightly. It really isn't a cement step though, more like where the gravel has washed away from the cement pad.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Ok this is only half an answer when you say slightly, does the front bucket touch the ground when backing up? Normally one push the handles so the front is approx. 6" from the ground.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Could be the friction disc is slipping. If you try driving it and hold it still do the tires spin or do they stop? If they stop you need to clean and adjust the friction drive. If they spin then maybe the hill is just too big.


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

Shryp said:


> Could be the friction disc is slipping. If you try driving it and hold it still do the tires spin or do they stop? If they stop you need to clean and adjust the friction drive. If they spin then maybe the hill is just too big.


So, you are saying try going forward with it and stopping the machine to see if the tires still try to turn? I don't understand why the tires or wheels aren't spinning when I try to come up the minor 1 and 1/2 inch abrupt cement pad. Shouldn't they spin? Don't know why the friction drive would be dirty already either. This machine has less than 10 hours on it.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

What Shryp is getting at and rightly so is your friction might need adjusting but was it purchased at a Big Box store? 
You might want to read your manual if they say anything for adjusting your forward and reverse. We can help you but may need a few clarifications first and you're right the friction drive should be clean as the unit is new.
So as Shryp said try going forward with the snow blower and hold on to it to try and stop it, if it doesn't spin then you need to adjust your friction disk.


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

Will this test work with or without snow? Suppose to be 54 degrees here today and I think our snow is going to be gone again! Can only hope!


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## wdb (Dec 15, 2013)

The test does not require snow. Most snow blowers use a friction disk to make the wheels turn. A wheel is pressed against a spinning disk, and the friction between the wheel and the disk makes the machine move. The speed at which it moves is controlled by the distance the wheel is from the center of the disk; the direction of travel is controlled by which side of the disk the wheel makes contact. If the wheel-to-disk friction is too low, the disk will turn but the wheel will not. And your machine won't move.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

fishrman said:


> Will this test work with or without snow? Suppose to be 54 degrees here today and I think our snow is going to be gone again! Can only hope!


 Did you manage to do your test? If you can hold your blower without it spinning, you can adjust your drive by tightening it some that when you press on the drive handle it will make your friction disk apply more pressure and you test it again.


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

Not sure if this adds anything to this discussion but here goes.

Having never backed up my deluxe 30 with the drive (always manually yank it back when needed) I got to wondering if this is a result of the auto turn feature. Getting more specific if the auto turn was sensing the resistance and disengaging. 

So, out the garage I went. Popped off my deluxe 30, laid out a 2x4 on the drive and tried backing over it. No problem what so ever, from either a dead stop against the 2x4 or a running start, it climbed over the 2x4 (the 1 1/2" height) with no issue. For sh1t and giggles, I took a head on forward approach, and once again, no issue. Climbed right over it. 

Kinda shoots the theory of auto turn messing up in the arse. I'm also thinking fishrman has a drive disc slippage issue. Pop off the bottom cover and see what you got going on to the right of center (I think right of center is reverse, but not 100% sure)


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

liftoff1967 said:


> Kinda shoots the theory of auto turn messing up in the arse. I'm also thinking fishrman has a drive disc slippage issue. Pop off the bottom cover and see what you got going on to the right of center (I think right of center is reverse, but not 100% sure)


Indeed right of center is reverse, I think his friction disk is slipping by not having enough pressure via an adjustment on his drive rod or cable which should be explained in his operator's manual. There is a very odd chance that his friction disk might contact to close to center which is also easy to adjust.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

It could be that the "professional" tech at the repair shop put too much grease in the zerk down there for the friction wheel and the plate is all greasy? The plate should be nice and clean.

Pull the cover off and look for all these things that were mentioned.

Pull the plate off it is just a couple of bolts. At least on mine it is.
Look a your manual it should tell you how.


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

Shryp said:


> Could be the friction disc is slipping. If you try driving it and hold it still do the tires spin or do they stop? If they stop you need to clean and adjust the friction drive. If they spin then maybe the hill is just too big.


OK, finally had a little snow today to run this test. It seemed, at first, when I was backing up and applied forward pressure to the machine in an attempt to stop it from coming backwards, the wheels simply stopped spinning as if it were indeed slipping. For some reason, when I am going forward and try to stop it, the wheels seem to continue to turn so don't think it is slipping going forward. This is a 2014 machine, you wouldn't think it would need adjusting but what do I know?
Other than that little issue, the machine seems to be much better for me now that I have the new chute on it and the tires are both the same size! It was actually a joy to use today! Platinum 24.


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

liftoff1967 said:


> Not sure if this adds anything to this discussion but here goes.
> 
> Having never backed up my deluxe 30 with the drive (always manually yank it back when needed) I got to wondering if this is a result of the auto turn feature. Getting more specific if the auto turn was sensing the resistance and disengaging.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your efforts!! Really appreciated!


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

fishrman said:


> Thanks for your efforts!! Really appreciated!


No worries. We all gotta stick together and see what works, and what don't. 

I referenced your situation with wrong sized tires when I did my update video on my machine in case that helped someone else out down the road. That is an odd thing to have have different size tires. Glad you got it worked out and your happier.


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

liftoff1967 said:


> No worries. We all gotta stick together and see what works, and what don't.
> 
> I referenced your situation with wrong sized tires when I did my update video on my machine in case that helped someone else out down the road. That is an odd thing to have have different size tires. Glad you got it worked out and your happier.


 I agree about the tire thing. My dealer is the one that figured that one out for me. When he measured them with equal tire pressure, one was 3/8ths of an inch bigger than the other, as I remember. You would think even the Chinese could make them closer to the same size than that! Doesn't do you much good to have equal tire pressure if one of the tires is bigger than the other!


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

OK guys, just got done fighting a heavy wet snow with my Platinum 24. What I found today is that it doesn't want to go forward either when it is to wet or to big of pile etc. I had to do a little manhandling of the blower today. I got out the manual thinking I could understand the adjustment I need to make but it is about as clear as mud to me. Can anyone explain this to me?


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

Well. if that ain't the sh1t's! Just the other day I was wondering if you got your issue solved. Obviously not!

I have never had to do any adjusting on my friction plate thingie, so I'm not gonna be a whole lotta help. But it did get me to thinking, being your blower was at the dealer for so long, maybe something forgot to be tighten down. Did you ever flip the blower on the bucket and pop of that service cover and stick your nose in there to see if anything jumps out at you? 
Take a look at the below photo (you will have to click on it to blow it up) Ya see that nut at the bottom of that long hex shaft looking thing? Maybe that worked it's way down.








I had that happen on my Harley after a dealer service (I know my limitations) I took off on a run with a buddy. As I was driving I could feel my clutch getting softer and softer with each pull. About 60 miles from home, I had no clutch. I pulled over and just happen to see this EXACT same set up, and my stop nut was all the way off the threads. I got it fixed and back on the road. That Monday I called the guy that wrenched on it, and he told me he had a busy day and was called away a lot while working on my bike, and must have for got to wrench it tight. It happens. Maybe your case too?

I'm assuming your pretty much on a first name bases with your dealer. I would either call, or stop in and quiz them. Maybe they will say, "bring it in, and we will have a look". Worth a shot!

Good luck!


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

fishrman said:


> OK guys, just got done fighting a heavy wet snow with my Platinum 24. What I found today is that it doesn't want to go forward either when it is to wet or to big of pile etc. I had to do a little manhandling of the blower today. I got out the manual thinking I could understand the adjustment I need to make but it is about as clear as mud to me. Can anyone explain this to me?


Assuming your Platinum 24 is similar to my Platinum SHO 30, check the cable that runs from the left drive clutch handle down to the chassis through a spring. You should only move the handle about a 1/4" to take up the slack in the control, after that the spring should extend putting pressure on the clutch disc to move it into contact with the rubber tired drive clutch wheel. If you have too much play then loosen the locking nut (located above the spring and in contact with the adjusting barrel. Turn the adjustment barrel down to shorten the cable and remove all cable slack. Also check that the cable runs around the guide wheel on the chassis and is not hung-up there. 

If that does not solve your problem then remove the belt cover and check the tensioner on the drive belt closest to the engine. The idler pulley tensions the belt using a strong spring that is attached to the idler pulley mounting bolt and the frame of the machine on left side. The drive belt must be tensioned so there is no slack in the belt.

If the drive belt is well tensioned then drain the gas from the fuel tank and raise the machine so that it rests on the auger housing. Remove the lower cover mounting screws and remove the cover to expose the innards of the machine's drive system. You will see the rubber tired clutch drive wheel and the clutch plate under it. Both plate and rubber tire should be free of grease. Engage the drive clutch handle and watch the plate rise up to contact the rubber tire of the clutch. Since the drive is now "locked" to the engine the rubber tired clutch wheel should not turn. The differential will allow one wheel to turn but not both in the same direction.

Hope that helps.


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

Town said:


> Assuming your Platinum 24 is similar to my Platinum SHO 30, check the cable that runs from the left drive clutch handle down to the chassis through a spring. You should only move the handle about a 1/4" to take up the slack in the control, after that the spring should extend putting pressure on the clutch disc to move it into contact with the rubber tired drive clutch wheel. If you have too much play then loosen the locking nut (located above the spring and in contact with the adjusting barrel. Turn the adjustment barrel down to shorten the cable and remove all cable slack. Also check that the cable runs around the guide wheel on the chassis and is not hung-up there.
> 
> If that does not solve your problem then remove the belt cover and check the tensioner on the drive belt closest to the engine. The idler pulley tensions the belt using a strong spring that is attached to the idler pulley mounting bolt and the frame of the machine on left side. The drive belt must be tensioned so there is no slack in the belt.
> 
> ...


I checked the cable you are referring too when I shut it off this morning and I thought that might be the culprit. The nut didn't seem to be loose but the whole cable does appear to have to much slack in it. I will see if I can tighten that up and make some difference. Thanks!! Stay tuned!


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## bombidude (Jan 8, 2015)

That sounds like it is a cable adjustment. Probably wasn't setup right when he bought it.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

fishrman said:


> I checked the cable you are referring too when I shut it off this morning and I thought that might be the culprit. The nut didn't seem to be loose but the whole cable does appear to have to much slack in it. I will see if I can tighten that up and make some difference. Thanks!! Stay tuned!


 The nut you are referring to should be loosened before you tighten the cable with the long tube (3" long) then tighten the nut against it so it won't loosen again. Good Luck


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

Normex said:


> The nut you are referring to should be loosened before you tighten the cable with the long tube (3" long) then tighten the nut against it so it won't loosen again. Good Luck


Yep, I gotcha. Should there be no slack in it at all??


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

fishrman said:


> Yep, I gotcha. Should there be no slack in it at all??


No slack but not very tight as a violin cord . You will see right away that your blower will have much more grab if you try to hold it both ways if not better verify your friction disk by putting your blower in service position and remove the bottom panel as I don't know how long you ran it loose and the friction would have been slipping for that period though if you used only once or twice I wouldn't worry about it. Good Luck


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

If you don't have any slack in the cable then the clutch will not release immediately the traction drive clutch lever is released. It will continue to drive for a bit. The cable must have a little slack so when you move the clutch lever the cable tightens and then the spring starts to lengthen. You will know the right tension because the cable will be just a little floppy, and you need a small drive clutch lever movement to take out the slack and start to load the spring. 

Too much slack and you lose clutch grip and too little slack and the clutch will not release soon enough when the drive is under load. To have the clutch not release for several seconds when closing in on a car or other obstacle will scare you as much as it did me.

Good luck.


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

Town said:


> If you don't have any slack in the cable then the clutch will not release immediately the traction drive clutch lever is released. It will continue to drive for a bit. The cable must have a little slack so when you move the clutch lever the cable tightens and then the spring starts to lengthen. You will know the right tension because the cable will be just a little floppy, and you need a small drive clutch lever movement to take out the slack and start to load the spring.
> 
> Too much slack and you lose clutch grip and too little slack and the clutch will not release soon enough when the drive is under load. To have the clutch not release for several seconds when closing in on a car or other obstacle will scare you as much as it did me.
> 
> Good luck.


Thanks! I am pretty confident it is to loose! I will see if I can adjust it at my first opportunity.


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## vmaxed (Feb 23, 2014)

fishrman said:


> I checked the cable you are referring too when I shut it off this morning and I thought that might be the culprit. The nut didn't seem to be loose but the whole cable does appear to have to much slack in it. I will see if I can tighten that up and make some difference. Thanks!! Stay tuned!


 Make the cable adjustment so when you pull the handle down all the way you can slide a credit card in between the spring coils


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## fishrman (Oct 19, 2013)

vmaxed said:


> Make the cable adjustment so when you pull the handle down all the way you can slide a credit card in between the spring coils


Well, I made the adjustment this morning before reading this. I will double check it now with the credit card trick! I can tell you though, I moved the cable tighter about a full inch! Made all the difference in the world. No slippage and I think the reverse and forward speeds are just a little faster.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Don't go overboard or you will wear out your bearings and friction wheel early. Check your manual as I think the new Ariens say something like the spring should stretch 1 extra inch or something.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Shryp said:


> Don't go overboard or you will wear out your bearings and friction wheel early. Check your manual as I think the new Ariens say something like the spring should stretch 1 extra inch or something.


The traction drive clutch adjustment procedure in the 2014/15 Owner's manual does not address the length of the spring or any gaps between the coils. The manual just says to adjust the cable adjusting barrel to remove all slack from the cable. It also suggests to check that drive plate finger touches the side of the hole closest to the auger housing. 

My dealer adjusted the cable so there is just a little slack in the cable.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

fishrman said:


> Well, I made the adjustment this morning before reading this. I will double check it now with the credit card trick! I can tell you though, I moved the cable tighter about a full inch! Made all the difference in the world. No slippage and I think the reverse and forward speeds are just a little faster.


 Glad it works better, the cable when not depressed with the handle should be snug or if you wiggle it slightly, it should just have slight movement each way like have 1 inch of wiggle play. I know I said previously to have it tight but I should have been more explicit so as long when adjusted the cable should be straight and you can wiggle it sideways approx. 1"
One last question did you use your snow blower much like it was before? 
Good Luck


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

fishrman said:


> Well, I made the adjustment this morning before reading this. I will double check it now with the credit card trick! I can tell you though, I moved the cable tighter about a full inch! Made all the difference in the world. No slippage and I think the reverse and forward speeds are just a little faster.


Glad you got it fixed. Good advice Normex


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Town said:


> The traction drive clutch adjustment procedure in the 2014/15 Owner's manual does not address the length of the spring or any gaps between the coils. The manual just says to adjust the cable adjusting barrel to remove all slack from the cable. It also suggests to check that drive plate finger touches the side of the hole closest to the auger housing.
> 
> My dealer adjusted the cable so there is just a little slack in the cable.


Hi Shryp,

Further to your comment that the drive clutch cable spring should extend an inch when engaged and adjusted correctly, I checked my machine, to confirm it is correct.

Here are some pictures of the clutch drive plate finger (referred to in the manual) in the chassis left side plate. The first picture shows the clutch disengaged so the finger touches the square hole nearest to the auger. The second picture shows the finger when the clutch is engaged. This happens when the free play in the clutch lever is taken up and the finger moves the clutch drive plate into contact with the driven rubber tired clutch wheel. So the tip of the drive clutch lever moves about an inch and a quarter to achieve this. Moving the clutch lever to the handlebar does not affect the finger position but extends the clutch cable spring an inch as you suggested for a properly set up machine.

So this makes for a very good method of clutch adjustment. Impressive engineering from Ariens, I think.


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