# 1130se parts



## Money_man

I have a 2009 model 1130se and I'm curious where you guys get your parts. Also what other makes of snowblower fit the JD? If I know that I'll have an easier time tracking down parts that aren't from the John Deere dealer only. I currently have possibly slightly bent auger and if I watch the auger pulley I can see the shaft has to be bent because the pulley is wobbling. Previous owner got frustrated and somehow chewed the clearing blade off on one side and slightly into the housing.


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## JLawrence08648

I believe that's a Murray made machine so look for that, same as a Craftsman.


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## Money_man

Some pics I got. Not sure how to tell what Murray models would work.


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## JLawrence08648

Most if not all.


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## jtclays

125https://www.partstree.com/parts/mur...john-deere-1130se-30-dual-stage-thrower-2009/


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## Money_man

Yessir. I can get a better picture tomorrow.


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## Money_man

So is this correct and the shaft from the pulley to the gearcase is not replaceable? Going to get outside in about an hour to take a better look at this. Need to move it from the shed to the garage anyway.


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## Money_man

I do know the auger bearings are new with about 10 hours on them. The gearcase was replaced just before I was given the unit. The left auger looking at the unit was supposedly slightly bent so they bent it back. I'll have more information when I get outside to look at stuff.


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## Money_man

Ok just got some pictures. Found a couple things that seem off to me. First its obvious I'm missing a bolt from the gearcase to the housing support (pic #3) so that's probably a bit of my rattle I've been looking for. Then I noticed the shaft coming out of the gearcase doesn't seem to be straight with the gearcase (pic 4). The bearing holder (pic 5) seems to be cracked next to one of the bolts. 

Augers spin freely on their shafts so they aren't seized. The impeller looks perfect as well, looked for bends and cracks. I can run out and look at anything you need me to. Need to get it in the garage when the baby gets up because hard to do anything in -20°c.


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## Money_man

Ok. So how do I post a video? I don't know what's wrong but it's not great.


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## all3939

I notice in the impeller picture a square head screw being used as a set screw. I'm not sure that's right. Thinking there should be a roller pin of sort. Then again I may be off on this one.


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## jtclays

If y


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## Money_man

The shaft goes in and out about an inch when I engage the auger and look at the pulley. The whole auger assembly jiggles around. When I turned it off I can move everything a good inch up and done if I grab the gearbox. It's pretty bad. I can send someone the video if you'd like to see. The bearing in the very least is shot. Going to have to tear it apart and get a parts list.


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## Money_man

Here's What I found on Amazon. Think I'm going to check local suppliers first.


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## Money_man

Here ya go. Assuming it's the impeller Bearing, not much else it could be.

https://youtu.be/O7PA1xBCWmU

https://youtu.be/V-p4NmpwPMk

https://youtu.be/iHhvOLpQ3qY


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## DriverRider

Money_man said:


> Here ya go. Assuming it's the impeller Bearing, not much else it could be.


I would check the worm shaft for straightness and open the gear box checking thrust collar/roll pin and the shaft bushings within. A worn impeller bearing alone does not explain all the jumping/broken bracket bolt up front and in/out movement.


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## Money_man

Was wondering myself why the in and out play but I figured with the gearbox basically flopping around may cause that.


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## Money_man

So did some more this morning, just got called into work though. Basically it looks like the worm gear shaft is bent and there's a collar around the shaft between the gearbox and impeller that I can move back and forth. The impeller Bearing actually looks good but I ordered a new one from the dealer. Need to get the rest of this torn apart. Do they sell a gearbox rebuild kit?


So called John deere, they don't sell a rebuild kit for the gearbox so I need to rip it apart and see what I need inside. However they do have the shaft $14


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## jtclays

123


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## Money_man

Knowing my luck he priced the tube and not the shaft even though I specifically told him the shaft. Says they're discontinued and that I'm lucky they have 3 in the warehouse. Sucks that I need to tear apart the gearbox. Says some of the parts in the gearbox are on backorder so he's hoping whatever parts I need are not. The wobble must've killed some bushings in the gearbox since it's only 4 years old.


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## Money_man

So they called back to say they priced the sleeve instead of the shaft. The shaft is $52, still not bad. Should I just replace the sleeve anyway? Not 100% sure what the sleeve is for.

Another question is should I be fine with a synthetic 80w90 gear oil? Something that meets GL-5 specs.


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## Money_man

Is there a trick to removing the auger pulley set screws or do I have to go buy a set of 8 point sockets? Not sure what size this is.


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## jtclays

Som


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## Money_man

jtclays said:


> Sometimes the female end of a ratchet extension will fit right over them depending on size. Then use a box end or open end on the male end to turn, they shouldn't be that tight. Famous last words
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> That "tube" over the impeller appears to be plastic when I found it listed on ereplacement they listed the weight as .10 lbs., maybe it's just a spacer, can't see it protecting too much from rust.


The 1/4" extension is to small and the 3/8" extension is slightly to large. It's frustrating because nobody I know has an 8 point socket set.


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## jtclays

A 12


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## Money_man

Hmm, I expected that to be gear oil. Wonder if I switched it to gear oil if it would hurt. Grease has a tendency to break down and dry out.


Nvm going to John deere to get some stuff tomorrow. Just going to pick up grease while I'm there.


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## Money_man

Ok got it tore apart. Previous owner fixed the bare minimum to get it working again and then scrapped it when it didn't work right. 

So found a bent worm shaft, a broken drive lock pin, and a broken gearbox support bolt. The impeller is seized to the shaft so going to have to heat it. The impeller bearing is fine but I'll change it anyway. Bearing retainer actually isn't cracked, it was a piece of grass or dirt making it look that way. Going to JD today to see what I can get. Third picture is the broken pin. Oh and the shear pins were mangled, had to beat them out with a punch.


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## DriverRider

Money_man said:


> So found a bent worm shaft, a broken drive lock pin, and a broken gearbox support bolt. The impeller is seized to the shaft so going to have to heat it. The impeller bearing is fine but I'll change it anyway. Bearing retainer actually isn't cracked, it was a piece of grass or dirt making it look that way. Going to JD today to see what I can get. Third picture is the broken pin. Oh and the shear pins were mangled, had to beat them out with a punch.


What they call a lock pin and I referred earlier to as a roll pin for the thrust collar is actually a spring pin and if it is in a Heavy Duty designation you will find one more next size smaller spring pin within the nominal hole size pin thus making it H-D application.


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## DriverRider

Money_man said:


> Hmm, I expected that to be gear oil. Wonder if I switched it to gear oil if it would hurt. Grease has a tendency to break down and dry out.
> 
> Nvm going to John deere to get some stuff tomorrow. Just going to pick up grease while I'm there.


Good, don't go reinventing the wheel. The GR132 is available (ordered) at NAPA in a 1 lb.tub.


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## jtclays

Prev


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## Money_man

So it's actually a solid pin and not a roll pin. All it does it holds the worm gear in place so I'm thinking about just getting a roll pin in its place.


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## Money_man

Any opinions on using a roll pin for the thrust collar? A local large small engine shop/supplier told me they use roll pins in there usually.


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## Money_man

Used a 3/16" x 1 1/2" steel roll pin, went in nice and snug and I put everything together with the gear box. Filled it with grease and checked the play, nothing! I'm so happy, turns buttery smooth and I know it's fixed right because I did it.


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## Money_man

Got my impeller back. Put it all back together. Amazing to squeeze the auger lever and not have the machine shaking like crazy. I did notice the shaft still moves slightly in and out when looking at the pulley but I'm assuming that's normal since it's all new. With the damage the original owner did one of the augers may be slightly bent aswell causing a slight whoop when turning. Only issue I had was trying to get the impeller set pin tight


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## Money_man

Kind of figured I should end this thread with a few pictures. Still waiting for snow so no snow pictures.so for the long support rod bolt I used a stainless 1/4"x2 1/2" bolt with two lock nuts. Realized my spray can of yellow deere paint refused to spray, tried a different sprayer and still nothing so I assume it's just defective. Ended up spraying with tremclad black paint because it's all I had to protect the impeller, going to return the bad can of deere paint and get another. Need to clean up the augers as well but we were supposed to get hit with 12" of snow and 140km/h winds so I just got it together and didn't worry that much about paint.


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## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> Kind of figured I should end this thread with a few pictures. Still waiting for snow so no snow pictures.so for the long support rod bolt I used a stainless 1/4"x2 1/2" bolt with two lock nuts. Realized my spray can of yellow deere paint refused to spray, tried a different sprayer and still nothing so I assume it's just defective. Ended up spraying with tremclad black paint because it's all I had to protect the impeller, going to return the bad can of deere paint and get another. Need to clean up the augers as well but we were supposed to get hit with 12" of snow and 140km/h winds so I just got it together and didn't worry that much about paint.


I have the same blower that I should probably do some maintenance on this summer. Has been working good so far though. I know I have to remove the impeller and straighten out 2 of the blade tips as the PO bent them on something. Only other problem I have is keeping shear pins in the darn thing... The speced pins last me 1 use if I am lucky. Mind you I am careful and don't get into any sticks, rocks, tar or anything. Not sure what is going on. 

I notice in your last pics that you don't have the plastic collars (spacers) between the auger and gearbox.


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## Money_man

Can you post a picture? Mine is the way I got it.


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## Money_man

Hmm...1" spacers part number 1733406SM. Wonder how vital these are.


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## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> Hmm...1" spacers part number 1733406SM. Wonder how vital these are.


Ya, aside from keeping the auger form contacting the gear box in the event of shear pin failure, I'm not sure what value they add...


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## NorthMaine

How do your heated grips work? Mine seem to be real weak, pretty much unnoticeable in anything 20F and below.


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## jtclays

112


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## Money_man

NorthMaine said:


> How do your heated grips work? Mine seem to be real weak, pretty much unnoticeable in anything 20F and below.


If I use them with gloves on they're to warm. However if I use them with bare hands I freeze in cold weather. I just always go out with gloves on when snowblowing


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## Money_man

jtclays said:


> Some people had problems with the rocker style switches used on your machines. The internal connector tabs were bending away from full contact and apparently the switch is not very waterproof. Corrosion on the contacts and wear resulting in less than full transfer of power. I found some of the posts, but they are mainly for the chute switch and many of the pics are lost to photobucket's greed.


I was reading about that. So far my switches seem good and hopefully stay that way. We still have yet to get more than an inch of snow so it doesn't even get used that often but when it does snow I've lost my Ford escape and Chevy cruze in the snow drifts.


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## NorthMaine

jtclays said:


> Some people had problems with the rocker style switches used on your machines. The internal connector tabs were bending away from full contact and apparently the switch is not very waterproof. Corrosion on the contacts and wear resulting in less than full transfer of power. I found some of the posts, but they are mainly for the chute switch and many of the pics are lost to photobucket's greed.





Money_man said:


> If I use them with gloves on they're to warm. However if I use them with bare hands I freeze in cold weather. I just always go out with gloves on when snowblowing


Thanks, seems like something is definitely wrong with mine then. The rocker switch may very well be the issue, I'll have to take it apart and check it. I doubt it is the elements themselves as those are pretty much bullet proof. I'll have to verify the wiring as well with my multimeter.


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## Money_man

I end up turning them on by accident usually.


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## Money_man

So my shearpins that had to be ordered finally came in. Don't know why I expected them to be a John deere brand but they're just generic Atlas branded ones. Not sure why absolutely nothing is ever in stock for this machine, just happy that I ordered two sets and picked up some random set from Canadian Tire. So now I have three sets. Not sure if I'll need any because I never went through any in the last 2 years. As a reminded here's the new ones and here's the old ones.


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## Money_man

Oh found some spray can Teflon so sprayed the chute with the Teflon spray. Never had an issue before but its not going to hurt anything.


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## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> So my shearpins that had to be ordered finally came in. Don't know why I expected them to be a John deere brand but they're just generic Atlas branded ones. Not sure why absolutely nothing is ever in stock for this machine, just happy that I ordered two sets and picked up some random set from Canadian Tire. So now I have three sets. Not sure if I'll need any because I never went through any in the last 2 years. As a reminded here's the new ones and here's the old ones.


I hope you have better luck with shear pins in this thing than I do. I tried some regular 1/4" ones off Amazon, the ones from the parts book (1687404) and everything fails in no time. I end up changing pins a few times every time I use the blower. I am not hitting or going through anything out of the ordinary either. It seems the machine is just too powerful for the spec'd pins. I have resorted to using 1/4-20 stainless bolts.


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## all3939

NorthMaine said:


> I hope you have better luck with shear pins in this thing than I do. I tried some regular 1/4" ones off Amazon, the ones from the parts book (1687404) and everything fails in no time. I end up changing pins a few times every time I use the blower. I am not hitting or going through anything out of the ordinary either. It seems the machine is just too powerful for the spec'd pins. I have resorted to using 1/4-20 stainless bolts.


I think you have a definite issue going on if you're using the oem pins and break them all the time. Resorting to stainless steel bolts is a no no because most likely those bolts are a higher grade which lends itself to a greater shear strength thereby not giving you the protection you need. Should they need to shear due to hitting something, you will ultimately take out the gear box instead.


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## NorthMaine

all3939 said:


> I think you have a definite issue going on if you're using the oem pins and break them all the time. Resorting to stainless steel bolts is a no no because most likely those bolts are a higher grade which lends itself to a greater shear strength thereby not giving you the protection you need. Should they need to shear due to hitting something, you will ultimately take out the gear box instead.


Stainless bolts are nothing to phone home about. This machine has a cast iron gearbox, not the diecast most machines do. The properties of the stainless put them between Grade 2 and Grade 5. Last storm I broke one of the stainless bolts because this time I knowingly got into the edge of a frozen bank and knew immediately what I had done. I have no obstructions in my drive or anywhere that I blow. All components in the auger system are tight and there is no play. There is absolutely no reason for me to be go through pins like I am. Literally any small chunk of frozen snow or ice will bust the OEM pins (or any other pin I have put in this machine). I understand your concern and if they were 5/16", or Grade 5 or 8, you may be right, but in this machine, I am not worried about using the 1/4" stainless bolts.


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## NorthMaine

I am going to try these 1 more time, but at $13 a pair, if these fail, I am back to the stainless...

https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-1687404K-Replaces-1687404/dp/B00B0K00E0


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## Money_man

I really hope i don't begin have issues. I assume the ones I removed were factory spec Shear pins however I guess you never know. Just so you know, the gearbox is cast but the auger gear is only brass. If I start breaking them I will come up with a solution aswell and it may be using stainless bolts. My driveway is basically as perfect as a driveway can be for a snowblower so I hope to have no issues. Especially at $11.50/set


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## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> I really hope i don't begin have issues. I assume the ones I removed were factory spec Shear pins however I guess you never know. Just so you know, the gearbox is cast but the auger gear is only brass. If I start breaking them I will come up with a solution aswell and it may be using stainless bolts. My driveway is basically as perfect as a driveway can be for a snowblower so I hope to have no issues. Especially at $11.50/set


So I cleaned up a bit tonight before the rain we are supposed to be getting and I think I found my problem. I had made some custom shoes out of a piece of 3/4 hydex plastic to replace the crappy steel ones which were bolted with (here’s the key), carriage bolts. When I put the plastic ones on, I didn’t have long carriage bolts so I used regular bolts. Now what appears to be happening is that under certain load, there is enough play in the auger system and or flex in the bucket to cause the tip of the auger to hit the head of the bolt and snap the shear pin. I spun the auger and used an adjustable to put a slight bend in the auger tips so they are now away from the bolt head. Hopefully that solves my issue.


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## Money_man

That'll do it. Mine has cleared all the EOD snow after it's sat all night mixed with wet snow and road salt and has no issues eating it and spitting it out. Sometimes that can be 4ft high and soaked from the melt off coming down my hill. My neighbour with his ariens 24 deluxe is very impressed with the Deere. That's saying something considering how broken it's been. Now that's fixed it should be even better.


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## NorthMaine

Ya I have no complaints with mine either. Like yours it was neglected by the previous owner. Once I straighten out the impeller tips I should be good for a while. 

If you run into friction disc slipping issues with yours, one issue I had with mine is there was one of those black plastic Christmas tree retainer clips plugging a hole in the back right (looking forward) base of the engine mounting plate which when snow got on it it would melt and drip through right onto the friction disc below. I took silicone and plugged that hole as well as every other hole on the top, sides, etc of the drivetrain box to be sure it didn’t happen again. 


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## Money_man

I don't get slip but it definitely should be replaced. Leaves lots of rubber ridges on the friction disc and it's wore on one side more than the other along with some cracking that looks like light weather cracking on a tire sidewall. Not sure if I'm supposed to scuff the friction disc up or leave it shiny like a used brake rotor


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## NorthMaine

I replaced mine thinking it was the issue till it was still doing it and I found the water issue, so now it should still be replaced again... the plate should be clean and shiny I think. 


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## NorthMaine

Did you end up using the GR132 grease or? I need to check my gearbox. Best I can find on the grease though is on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lubriplate...008497&hash=item2135e15f72:g:vCoAAOSwbwJZ9M5Z


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## Money_man

Nope. Local large shop told me they only use EP#0 if it takes grease. They put it in all machines with no issues. They've been here since the 70's so I'll trust them.


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## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> Nope. Local large shop told me they only use EP#0 if it takes grease. They put it in all machines with no issues. They've been here since the 70's so I'll trust them.




What type did you end up using?


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## Money_man

Put in EP#0 that the shop sold me. If I'm completely honest the grease in the case looked like new so I may have left that in and squeezed in some new stuff aswell.


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