# HSS1332AATD end of season gas tank draining easily & w/o mess? And teaspoon of oil in crankcase?



## ArcticHighlander (Dec 1, 2020)

The manual says to remove the gas in the tank at the end of the season by draining through the carburetor and I was wondering what was the best method for removing the gas? Many on the forum recommend filling the tank after each use especially as Honda no longer installs a gas gauge. But then at the end of the season you have about a 1.5 gallon full tank of gas that you need to drain. And the drain sits right above the track and Honda says getting gas on track or wheels will damage them. I used cardboard over the track for some protection and repeatedly held a 2 cup capacity pyrex cup under the drain to collect gas and minimize spatter. It took about an hour to drain the tank by hand this way. I'm sure there are lots of better ways that others are using and I'd would like to hear what others recommend. I do use a gas stabilizer when I fill my gas cans at the pump but Honda recommends draining even if using a stabilizer. 

The manual also recommends pulling the spark plug and adding a teaspoon of engine oil in the crankcase. Is there some way to do this w/o mess? I use a long handled metal teaspoon to reach down there and try to get as much in as I can but probably spill more than half of it so I use 3 teaspoons full. I use newspaper and paper towels to catch and clean up the mess. Is there some easier and less messy way to get a teaspoon of oil in there?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Let me mention a couple things here.

First, all my 5 gallon gas cans, which is for all my equipment, gets 2oz of Stabil and 2oz of SeaFoam added whenever I fill them.

Every piece of equipment I own, summer, winter, new and old have this treated gas in it year round. I have never drained a carburetor, or emptied a tank at any time for storage. I periodically start and operate all my equipment throughout the year. I have never experienced any issues in all my life on any of my equipment.

(Side Note also, I use Full Synthetic 5W30 in all my equipment, i.e., summer winter, new and old.)

Now, if you want to drain a fuel tank, you can either use a battery powered pump, or a small bulb siphon tube type pump, which you can usually get either on sale for under 10.00.

I also have never pulled a plug and fogged a cylinder for storage.

An eyedropper, syringe or a small basting tube will work for transferring minute amounts of liquids ... or just use a clear piece of tubing or a straw, place it in the oil, then hold your finger over the other end, that will retain the oil in the tube for you to go over to the cylinder and then release your finger.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Use a battery hand pump for the gas, Harbor Freight $10, use an oil can to squirt in the spark plug hole or as the engine is shutting down spray fogging oil in the carb throat.


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

The above posters are 100% correct. You can get most of the gas out with the little battery powered transfer pump that HF sells. Get the battery powered one, don't mess around with the little hand pump. After my neighbors saw me with my battery powered pump, they all went and got one or two. 

The residual gas in the tank will not be a problem as long as it is treated with at least stabil. Oneacer's treatement of stabil and seafoam works pretty good as well. I used to use a little drygas too, but it is really not needed as long as the tank is kept sealed.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I do what @Oneacer described. All OPE gas gets treated when purchased, and I don't drain any of the tanks. I figured it out once and I'd likely need almost 30 gallons of storage if I drained every machine's tank. I do run the carburetors empty at the end of the season.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Ya... I don't have fuel problems but if I do need to drain a tank for some reason I usually do it through the exhaust pipe.

I'll run the push-mowers dry before I put 'em away if I remember.


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## SnowGuy69 (Feb 12, 2014)

carguy20 said:


> The above posters are 100% correct. You can get most of the gas out with the little battery powered transfer pump that HF sells. Get the battery powered one, don't mess around with the little hand pump. After my neighbors saw me with my battery powered pump, they all went and got one or two.
> 
> The residual gas in the tank will not be a problem as long as it is treated with at least stabil. Oneacer's treatement of stabil and seafoam works pretty good as well. I used to use a little drygas too, but it is really not needed as long as the tank is kept sealed.


Curious why you would use dry gas, which I believe is and mixture of alcohols. I am running around looking for alcohol free gas.


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

Hence the term "used to". Years ago I would store a couple 5 gal cans for my generator for emergency use when the power went out. I figured two five gallon cans would be enough for a day, maybe a little more. It would be enough time for me to go out and get more. Anyway, I would sometimes store that gas for a year. I would put a little dry gas in there in case any moisture got in. 

Needless to say, I do not store gas like that anymore. I usually rotate cans every four months now. I also gave up trying to find alcohol free gas. The only place I can get it is either an airport many miles away, or perhaps a marina. I have never had a problem using regular gas from my local top tier station.


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## stevedore (Nov 22, 2018)

I'm with Oneacer & tabora; stabilizer in cans when I get them filled, & never drain equipment at the end of a season. I have a riding mower, snowblower, chipper/shredder, pressure washer & a small rototiller, & they all start easily after seasonal storage. 

Until recently we had a portable generator, & I would drain the gas from that & run it dry since it would sometimes be 2-3 years between uses.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Is the OP going to come back?

As with others never had a problem with small engine equipment if you shut off gas and run until it stalls.( for storage ). I always used a siphon hose with bulb to siphon gas from tank. A little left over aint gonna hurt. 

Not sure about fogging or putting oil in cylinder. I'm sure it's a good idea. 

My machines are about 25-40 years old and still run like new.


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## ArcticHighlander (Dec 1, 2020)

tabora said:


> I do what @Oneacer described. All OPE gas gets treated when purchased, and I don't drain any of the tanks. I figured it out once and I'd likely need almost 30 gallons of storage if I drained every machine's tank. I do run the carburetors empty at the end of the season.


Do you add oil through the spark plug hole at the end of season to protect the engine from corrosion? I've been doing this with my Honda mower as well per the manual. I've been running the mower dry since it has a much smaller tank and I never top it off.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

ArcticHighlander said:


> Do you add oil through the spark plug hole at the end of season to protect the engine from corrosion? I've been doing this with my Honda mower as well per the manual. I've been running the mower dry since it has a much smaller tank and I never top it off.


I do


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

ArcticHighlander said:


> Do you add oil through the spark plug hole at the end of season to protect the engine from corrosion?


I do that (using Bombardier Lube or a similar fogger) with my 2-stroke outboards, chainsaws, trimmers, etc., but not typically the 4-stroke equipment.


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## Letit Snow (Nov 25, 2018)

As a caution to people who may not know after putting any liquid in the cylinder crank the engine with the spark plug out. Cranking with the plug in can cause hydrolock and bend the crank. I have seen it happen on motorcycles when the float seat failed and filled the cylinder with fuel . One hit of the starter button and the crank is bent.


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