# Issue with Reverse Gears on brand New Troy Bilt



## ekeenan81

Hi all

I recently purchased a Troy Bilt

Arctic Storm 30 in. 357cc Two-Stage Electric Start Gas Snow Blowerwith Power Steering and Electronic 4-Way Chute Control

It looks like a beast but my issue is with the two Reverse Gears R1 and R2

Currently engaging either makes the snow blower move forward.

Contacted Troy Bilt support who referred me to the manual.

I know there is a metal bracket on the back that you move up or down to adjust the tautness of the cable.

If I adjust too much where cable is very tight when putting in either of the reverse gears the snowblower starts moving without engaging the throttle.

Adjusting to the middle or creating more slack still doesn’t engage reverse it still moves forward in reverse

Am I missing something here as it is a brand new machine, do I just need to find the sweet spot adjustment?

Thanks for any help or insight

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0lzzO7IqGUJsesr_kEHR0Uw8Q#New_Providence_-_Murray_Hill


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## jsup

Does the indicator move all the way to R1 R2?


Typically there is a carrier that rides on an octagon shaped bar that runs left to right in the transmission. 



There's a spinning disk that hits a rubber wheel, the rubber wheel moves closer to, or further away from center, hence changing the gear ratio. Reverse happens when it goes past center, and starts spinning the other way. 



Take the bottom off, and make sure there is no obstruction preventing that carrier to move past center, to reverse. I've seen rusted bars to the point the carrier won't move. For some reason, it may not be getting the rubber "gear" past center. Have to open the bottom to see why.


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## Stability

I own it's bigger brother and yes I agree it's a big improvement in the MTD family.

The pic you show is the drive cable, that's not your issue. If drive cable was to loose, none of the speed settings would work properly.

What you want to adjust is the speed selector rod connected to the speed selector lever and traveling down to the speed assembly. Under the dash you'll see the bottom of the level with 2 holes in it. The top of the rod has a jamb nut & a ferrule that travels through that upper hole and is set with a hair pin clip. 

You need to put lever into F6, tip the machine up onto the auger housing (tip it onto card board so you don't scratch paint), remove access panel (3/8"), take notice to where Friction Wheel is located(should be off to the left of center by a few inches), move lever to F1 (F.W. should now be about 3/4" left of center), if not release ferrule from lever (always in F6), take a pliers & a 1/2" wrench, loosen jamb nut so you can swivel nut & ferrule up or down.
Pay attention to the location of the friction wheel that hovers over the friction plate, (it's going to be trial and error to get it right), if you rotate the nut/ferrule down the wheel will travel more to the right and vise versa.
When you get it set correctly (seeing F1 off to the left of center), then when you put it in R1 the wheel should jump over center to the right side of friction disk.
Good luck
Go back and reset that drive cable so that when you squeeze the drive lever the cable should be stiff, not overly tight (stretching cable).


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## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to SBF ekeenan81

You need to check the manual for adjusting it. It's not the tension that needs adjustment. If you've been tightening the cable with the spring you might want to readjust that back to where the manual says to have it. I think that's on page 18.That's for when you engage it and it doesn't go, drive the wheels. That's when the friction wheel is slipping or not hitting the driving plate.

If you look at the videos you'll see on one side of center of the driving plate are the forward gears and on the other side of the center are the reverse gears.
You'll need to lower the fuel level then stand the unit up on it's bucket and remove the transmission cover to see what the friction wheel is doing as you move the shifter.
You might also want to add a drop or two of oil to that hexigonial shaft the friction wheel rides on in case it's the assembly that isn't sliding that's causing the problem.

Videos here - - > https://www.google.com/search?q=how...ome..69i57.14407j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

In your manual it should be on page 18, Adjusting the shift cable. - - > https://www.troybilt.com/wcsstore/T...er/Storm 2410_2620_2840_3090XP Snow_769-06897[1].pdf
I'm guessing since you didn't actually give the model # :sad2:

.


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## Bluejoe

Hello There are several adjustment points. It sometimes need very little tweaking to get it corrected.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Did you manage to get it straightened out ??


.


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## VirginIASnow

ekeenan81 said:


> Hi all
> 
> I recently purchased a Troy Bilt
> 
> Arctic Storm 30 in. 357cc Two-Stage Electric Start Gas Snow Blowerwith Power Steering and Electronic 4-Way Chute Control
> 
> It looks like a beast but my issue is with the two Reverse Gears R1 and R2
> 
> Currently engaging either makes the snow blower move forward.
> 
> Contacted Troy Bilt support who referred me to the manual.
> 
> I know there is a metal bracket on the back that you move up or down to adjust the tautness of the cable.
> 
> If I adjust too much where cable is very tight when putting in either of the reverse gears the snowblower starts moving without engaging the throttle.
> 
> Adjusting to the middle or creating more slack still doesn’t engage reverse it still moves forward in reverse
> 
> Am I missing something here as it is a brand new machine, do I just need to find the sweet spot adjustment?
> 
> Thanks for any help or insight
> 
> https://share.icloud.com/photos/0lzzO7IqGUJsesr_kEHR0Uw8Q#New_Providence_-_Murray_Hill


That cable only adjusts the friction plate height. You need to adjust this cam and if you need more the whole bracket (at the center bolt) may need repositioning to bring the rubber wheel to the other side of the disk. This is the cam I adjusted to speed up my reverse which moved the wheel further out from the center. BUT, the wheel was on the right side to begin with.


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## PaulMys

ekeenan81 said:


> Hi all
> 
> I recently purchased a Troy Bilt
> 
> Arctic Storm 30 in. 357cc Two-Stage Electric Start Gas Snow Blowerwith Power Steering and Electronic 4-Way Chute Control
> 
> It looks like a beast but my issue is with the two Reverse Gears R1 and R2
> 
> Currently engaging either makes the snow blower move forward.
> 
> Contacted Troy Bilt support who referred me to the manual.
> 
> I know there is a metal bracket on the back that you move up or down to adjust the tautness of the cable.
> 
> If I adjust too much where cable is very tight when putting in either of the reverse gears the snowblower starts moving without engaging the throttle.
> 
> Adjusting to the middle or creating more slack still doesn’t engage reverse it still moves forward in reverse
> 
> Am I missing something here as it is a brand new machine, do I just need to find the sweet spot adjustment?
> 
> Thanks for any help or insight
> 
> https://share.icloud.com/photos/0lzzO7IqGUJsesr_kEHR0Uw8Q#New_Providence_-_Murray_Hill


 Just to be clear, and if you are getting forward motion while in reverse positions, is your F6 (fastest forward gear) crazy fast? 



If so, and as mentioned above, the friction disc is not sliding past center. 



I recently bought the TB 3090, and the shift shaft has 5 adjustment holes. I tipped mine up and adjusted it to have the slowest F1 gear (closest to the center of the drive disc), and this also gives you a little more reverse speed.


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## 138247

I just assembled my new Troy Bilt 2410 snow blower and seem to be having similar transmission problems. It will not go into R1 without a great deal of effort, and R2 is virtually impossible. I have tried various holes in the Index Bracket, without success. I have not tried to run the machine because I don't have engine oil yet, but I expect this will be an issue. But to me, the REAL ISSUE is that I should not have to open the machine up and adjust friction plates and cams on a BRAND NEW machine! Also, the Operator's Manual is very hard to use, as it keeps referencing multiple chute assemblies and other features that I do not have. This is my first Troy Bilt, and I'm not impressed.


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## Zavie

billflyer said:


> I just assembled my new Troy Bilt 2410 snow blower and seem to be having similar transmission problems. It will not go into R1 without a great deal of effort, and R2 is virtually impossible. I have tried various holes in the Index Bracket, without success. I have not tried to run the machine because I don't have engine oil yet, but I expect this will be an issue. But to me, the REAL ISSUE is that I should not have to open the machine up and adjust friction plates and cams on a BRAND NEW machine! Also, the Operator's Manual is very hard to use, as it keeps referencing multiple chute assemblies and other features that I do not have. This is my first Troy Bilt, and I'm not impressed.



If it is hard to move into R1 make sure you are not holding down the traction lever when shifting!* NEVER* hold the traction lever down and shift speeds. If you are not holding down the lever then perhaps the tension on the lever cable needs to be adjusted.


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## tpenfield

My 2410 does not want to go into reverse either . . . Maybe R1, but not R2.


I don't really care because it is easier to pull the thing backwards than use the drive wheels.


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## gary407

I have a new 2410 and all gears work very well, so it is most likely just an adjustment problem.


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## Shovel

On the 2410.. put the lever it 6th.. adjust the cable to zero slop.This will get you very close...fine tune after ..if you want a faster reverse then lift up slightly on the shifter arm extending out of the back of the machine..say quarter inch or so..then move cam for zero slop and tighten.
Ideal position is to adjust for a very slow first speed


Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


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## Shovel

billflyer said:


> I just assembled my new Troy Bilt 2410 snow blower and seem to be having similar transmission problems. It will not go into R1 without a great deal of effort, and R2 is virtually impossible. I have tried various holes in the Index Bracket, without success. I have not tried to run the machine because I don't have engine oil yet, but I expect this will be an issue. But to me, the REAL ISSUE is that I should not have to open the machine up and adjust friction plates and cams on a BRAND NEW machine! Also, the Operator's Manual is very hard to use, as it keeps referencing multiple chute assemblies and other features that I do not have. This is my first Troy Bilt, and I'm not impressed.


After reading more of the thread:
I have the Craftsman version...mine was somewhat stiff as well..Anti seize was applied on the hex shaft at the factory..the thinning agent had all but evaporated after sitting..I cut that with oil and wiped most of it off ..it helped alot..I heard creaking while while moving the lever to lower speeds and reverse..it was the spring making the noise that wraps around the shaft in the belly pan..some lube on the spring and the holes the shifter shaft run through greatly decreased the effort.
I know you shouldn't have to work on a new machine...but the assembly workers are only so good..I took off my pan and wheels and gave my machine its first 'yearly' right off the bat.
The axles had bald spots with no protection..the wheel bushings we're dry..I put a little grease on the large gear ...looked everything over checked all the fasteners... you hear horror stories but mine were all fine
Two reasons..I wanted to be familiar with the machine in the event I had to work on it with a driveway full of snow in zero degree weather.
I don't trust anyone to take as much care to lube her up as I the owner am willing to do.
Be sure to clean any lubricant off that you get on the drive plate while you are servicing it...The machine is super easy to lube up and we'll worth the 15 minute investment



Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


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## JayzAuto1

Now is the perfect time to pull the wheels off to grease the axles. They are dry from factory. After 2 - 3 seasons, those wheels are rust jacked to the axles....and very hard to get off. Plus it's much easier to lube the axle bushings once the wheels are off and the axle will have side play to get marine lube in there.


GLuck, Jay


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## Kenlani

Shovel said:


> On the 2410.. put the lever it 6th.. adjust the cable to zero slop.This will get you very close...fine tune after ..if you want a faster reverse then lift up slightly on the shifter arm extending out of the back of the machine..say quarter inch or so..then move cam for zero slop and tighten.
> Ideal position is to adjust for a very slow first speed
> 
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


Thanks for this, but, do I lift the shifter slightly when it is in 6th?


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## Shovel

Kenlani said:


> Thanks for this, but, do I lift the shifter slightly when it is in 6th?


If you want more reverse then pull up on the shifting mechanism while leaving the shifter up top in sixth...tighten back down 

Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


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