# New HSS1332AT surging at full throttle



## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

Brand new HSS1332AT, just brought it home. Has less than an hour on it. Ran fine at dealership when loading it on the truck. Got it home and it idle’s rough and surges at full throttle. gas should be fine, haven’t added any new gas.
Dealership is couple hours away.
Anything obvious I should be checking?

runs a bit smoother at 1/2 choke but rpms seem low.


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## Spyle (Oct 24, 2017)

I would remove the 'old' gas with the screw under the carb bowl, to empty the carb and all the remaining gas in the tank (make sure the gas valve is on), put new fresh gas in with double dose of seafoam, start the engine for a few minutes, turn it off and let it sit overnight. Try again tomorrow and if your surging was caused by 'old' gas (even though the blower is new, doesn't mean the gas has not been sitting in the blower for some time), it should run fine. Of not, call the dealer afterwards... My 2 cents


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

At the risk of looking crazy operating your snow blower with no snow, have you tried running it a bit up and down the drive with the auger engaged. I’m wondering if the surging will calm down once it is warmed up a bit. Mine did surge a bit when cold. Nothing excessive. But it seems better after I changed to a richer jet. (There is a good thread on here for that!) Welcome to SBF!


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

I did try it on some snow. Surging was still present under load with the choke off.


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

Spyle said:


> I would remove the 'old' gas with the screw under the carb bowl, to empty the carb and all the remaining gas in the tank (make sure the gas valve is on), put new fresh gas in with double dose of seafoam, start the engine for a few minutes, turn it off and let it sit overnight. Try again tomorrow and if your surging was caused by 'old' gas (even though the blower is new, doesn't mean the gas has not been sitting in the blower for some time), it should run fine. Of not, call the dealer afterwards... My 2 cents


I will try draining the gas.
Do you think SeaFoam would make a difference on a brand new carb??


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

new gas
gas valve on
loosen gas cap and see if it still surges

brand new honda shouldnt need seafoam . take back to dealer if problem persists. ( so what if 2 hrs away )


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## Spyle (Oct 24, 2017)

Kanucked said:


> I will try draining the gas.
> Do you think SeaFoam would make a difference on a brand new carb??


If it is somwhat clogged by crud because gas has detoriate enough to cause the surging, then yes Seafoam does marvel. It did for me and A LOT of owners. I use it year round on my blowers and when having a look inside my carb, they are clean as new and keeps them that way. Since 3 years ago when I began to use it, I'm a believer. Of course, it doesn't reverse bad gas to become new again but put it in an empty container and fill it with fresh new gas, it keeps the fuel system clean all the time. I would try it, it doesn't cost much and is cheap insurance. If you try it and after a day or two there is no difference with the surging, then something else is at play here and I would take it back to the dealer. 1 bottle of seafoam will cost you peanuts compared to a trip back to the dealer if it solves the problem. Again, my 2 cents...


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Kanucked, I'm curious, you say 2 hours away. Did these symptoms show as soon as you got home and unloaded it?? What was the temperature, if it was below freezing, they may have been some water in the fuel and got some slush. Only a thought...... Welcome to the Honda world.........S W Ontario


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Honda used to put a fuel tank preservative in the tanks when they were new at the factory when they were being prepped for shipment. The gasoline would dissolve it after a full tank was run through it, but most times there was too much in it and the carb jets had to be cleaned out after the stuff re-emulsified or thickened up. It was like a wax or cosmoline.
From what you are describing, you have a clogged slow/pilot jet that needs to be removed and cleaned. You don't have to remove the carb bowl for that, they are mounted externally.
The 'Sea Foam' might help a little bit, 'Sea-Foam' is mostly Alcohol and Mineral Spirits, another form of Alcohol, which are solvents, just like using E10 gasoline. The Alcohol in gasoline acts as a solvent to help clean fuel systems besides being and 'Oxygenator' to help fuel burn more complete and cleaner, but robs some power because it has less B.T.U. efficiency than gasoline does and causes lower fuel mileage, but it does create more 'Greenhouse' gasses like Carbon Dioxide.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Kanucked said:


> Anything obvious I should be checking?
> runs a bit smoother at 1/2 choke but rpms seem low.


What was the altitude at the dealer vs where you are? You may need to rejet after break-in. See rejetting & speed setting info here: Honda Snow Blower Information Repository


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

contender said:


> Kanucked, I'm curious, you say 2 hours away. Did these symptoms show as soon as you got home and unloaded it?? What was the temperature, if it was below freezing, they may have been some water in the fuel and got some slush. Only a thought...... Welcome to the Honda world.........S W Ontario


possible, it was just above freezing at the dealer and about -10 (c) when I started it at home. 
draining the gas tonight and putting in fresh gas with some carb cleaner additive. will update


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

tabora said:


> What was the altitude at the dealer vs where you are? You may need to rejet after break-in. See rejetting & speed setting info here: Honda Snow Blower Information Repository


only a couple 100 feet difference in locations. 

plan to re-jet to a #108 after 10 hours on the motor. lots of info. on this site, Thanks


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

Update!

well I drained the gas from the carb and tank. Filled it up with fresh gas and added some seafoam, let it run for at least an hour.
still surging. Runs smooth at 1/2 to 2/3d’s choke.

I ordered a #108 jet.
My question is, should I just run it as is using the 1/2 choke until the break in (10 hours) is over and then re-jet or just do it right away?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Kanucked said:


> My question is, should I just run it as is using the 1/2 choke until the break in (10 hours) is over and then re-jet or just do it right away?


I waited 5 hours before I did mine. You don't want it running rich during the initial hours of break-in. The excess fuel washes the cylinder walls. Read more here: Fuel Wash: How To Eliminate This Potentially Serious Problem - Piston Rings Manufacturer | Made in the USA | Hastings Manufacturing


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

I don’t have the shop manual in front of me but could the choke cable be hung up or routed wrong? Not sure if there is any adjustment there.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Kanucked said:


> Update!
> 
> well I drained the gas from the carb and tank. Filled it up with fresh gas and added some seafoam, let it run for at least an hour.
> still surging. Runs smooth at 1/2 to 2/3d’s choke.
> ...


did you do as ST1100A suggested and remove clean pilot jet? It is a fairly easy job. otherwise take back to dealer.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Just wait out the 5 hours and install your new jet. You should be fine.

My experience: 2017 HSS1332AATD - After 5 hours run time, speeds with the stock #102 .0402 jet and factory throttle settings were:

Idle = 2120 RPM
Max Throttle = 3460 RPM
There was some surging throughout the range of RPMs. Ambient temperature was 34 degrees F. I increased the Max Throttle to 3650 RPM, and the engine was surging over a 400 RPM range. Added about 1/2 choke to smooth it out.

After re-jetting to #110 .0433, the engine was perfectly smooth from 2120 to 3650 RPM with no surging and no choke required. Max RPM was consistent from the prior adjustment. Adjusted max to 3700 RPM.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

tabora said:


> Just wait out the 5 hours and install your new jet. You should be fine.
> 
> My experience: 2017 HSS1332AATD - After 5 hours run time, speeds with the stock #102 .0402 jet and factory throttle settings were:
> 
> ...


what would cause this surging right outta the box practically? he siad it did not happen at dealer.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

@Kanucked what your elevation? Is it drastically different then the dealers location?

I went somewhere between 5-7 hours before my rejet. I’m at 1300ft and the #110 is excellent. In my case the 110 was an improvement over the 108 I tried initially.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> what would cause this surging right outta the box practically? he siad it did not happen at dealer.


It's just running lean, I'm betting. Adding the choke smooths it out, just like I and many others experienced. It probably just wasn't noticeable at the dealer? I didn't notice it when I picked mine up either. My dealer is at a couple hundred feet and I'm right at sea level. I joined the forum a couple of weeks after I purchased my HSS1332AATD looking for a solution to the surging.


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> @Kanucked what your elevation? Is it drastically different then the dealers location?
> 
> I went somewhere between 5-7 hours before my rejet. I’m at 1300ft and the #110 is excellent. In my case the 110 was an improvement over the 108 I tried initially.


Only a 100 feet difference in elevation. Between the dealership and me


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

And that number is??


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> And that number is??


750 dealership 
850 me


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

#108 will be fine, you might find the the #110 is a bit better in very cold temps.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

Google Taryl fixes all surging. If it doesn’t help at least it’s entertaining.

He mentions that if you can close the choke and the surging calms down the engine is lean on the idle circuit. I don’t know why a brand new carb would have the idle jet clogged but could be what is causing the problem.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Q: "It probably just wasn't noticeable at the dealer?"
A: Most likely not.
Chances were it was probably warmer when it was at the dealership so the fuel 'Atomized' better in the intake tract so it burned easier/better, therefor it ran smoother.
Once you got it home and everything cooled down and became much colder, the tiny fuel droplets will condense to big drops which are harder to ignite, and cause some un-even,rougher, or some surging when it was first started up and had to run for quite a while to get everything hot enough to make it smoothen itself out. A possibility ?
The coating/finish preserver/metal protector Honda put in the fuel tanks was called 'Nox-Rust'. It was a 'Wax' like coating almost like 'Fluid Film', that rinsed out when you ran a full tank of gas through the machine, but if you didn't run a complete full tank through at one time, it would 'Re-emulsify', or build/cake back up and clog things like slow jets.
We used to take carburetors apart and clean them with carb spray cleaner to get it out, then they would run fine afterwards.


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

ST1100A said:


> Q: "It probably just wasn't noticeable at the dealer?"
> A: Most likely not.
> Chances were it was probably warmer when it was at the dealership so the fuel 'Atomized' better in the intake tract so it burned easier/better, therefor it ran smoother.
> Once you got it home and everything cooled down and became much colder, the tiny fuel droplets will condense to big drops which are harder to ignite, and cause some un-even,rougher, or some surging when it was first started up and had to run for quite a while to get everything hot enough to make it smoothen itself out. A possibility ?
> ...


The machine was in the warehouse when I picked it up. Got it home it was probably-10 (c) when I first started it up.

did contact the dealership and they said this 

“I've shown the guys the videos again today, they suggest new fuel (which would be strange, but a place to start). The other thing they mention was the units are shipped will a protecting lubricant that sometimes takes a bit to get through the carb, they suggest run it hard for a bit.”

Ran it close to an hour wide open with fresh gas and seafoam.


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## Kanucked (Jan 3, 2021)

Any videos or tutorials about accessing/ removing the idle jet on the newer HSS models?
The idle screw is between the carb and tank so I’m assuming I need to completely remove the carb to access.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Give Tabora some time to read your post, he will probably post a link or pictures/instructions on how to remove and clean the slow jet, they are easy to get at.
The 'Oily' coating your dealer mentioned was called 'Nox-Rust' - the protecting lubricant.
The problem is when it clogs the slow and it is run full throttle, not much fuel goes through the slow jet to rinse it out enough. Sometimes you have to run it full throttle then back it down to idle quickly, then repeat.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Kanucked said:


> Any videos or tutorials about accessing/ removing the idle jet on the newer HSS models?
> The idle screw is between the carb and tank so I’m assuming I need to completely remove the carb to access.


Again, I would just wait for 5 hours of runtime (actual use) and change the main jet. The idle jet will likely take care of itself by then.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Kanucked said:


> Any videos or tutorials about accessing/ removing the idle jet on the newer HSS models?
> The idle screw is between the carb and tank so I’m assuming I need to completely remove the carb to access.


Man, I would just do what the dealer suggested. If that doesnt work TAKE TO DEALER. You will just make matters worse.
And void your warranty.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

tabora said:


> Again, I would just wait for 5 hours of runtime (actual use) and change the main jet. The idle jet will likely take care of itself by then.


I'd also pay a mechanic to change that jet. many owners just make things worse.

ask me how I know that.....just had a guy ruin his carb by trying to change the main jet . It was $200 for a new carb and labor.


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