# Pulley stuck on Auger Shaft



## Wrenchbender

Newbie here on the forum with an emergency.

Keeping my old Toro 521 snowblower going has always been easy with regular maintenance. Now, I have a problem with the gearbox for the auger. Easy to do most of what they tell you in the service manual to get it out for service -- until they say "slide the pulley off the end of the impeller shaft" (after removing the two set screws). Right, just slider 'er off there. It is stuck tight!

I have found many posts on this subject all over the internet, and no good answers. The pulley is stuck tight, and no reasonable amount of pressure with a crow bar down by the shaft will budge it.

This post from another site sort of explains it, but once again, doesn't complete the explanation:

"There should be a key way under 1 of the set screws. Use a piece of small stiff wire to probe around in the hole., then blow the debris out with air. SHine a light into the holes to get a good look. If the pulley is loose on the shaft your probably seeing shiny spots where the set screws kept the shaft clean... look at the (Toro) parts breakdown to see what is supposed to be there."

First of all, if "the pulley is loose"-- there's no problem!
Second of all, what, if anything, is supposed to "be there" in that set screw hole?

Since there are two set screws, I'm guessing there is not keyway or key. If there is, how do you loosen the key?

So far, spraying the shaft where it meets the pulley, and the two empty set screw holes with lots of penetrating "PB Blaster" oil have not done it.

I don't want to go putting heat on it or anything drastic until I know if I've missed a trick.

Thanks a whole lot. One more week of no snow in the forecast, and I need to get going on this thing.


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## td5771

you have a straight shaft with a small slot cut into it. in the pulley is a matching one.

the key they are talking about is a small piece of steel about an inch long and 3/16 square or it will look like a half moon shape about the same thickness.

that pulley will be stuck real good. heat wont hurt it but a crow bar will, you will bend it and it will wobble or vibrate.

see this link numbers 15 and 17 Parts and Diagrams for Toro Consumer 38052, 521 Snowthrower, 1984 (SN 4000001-4999999)

heating should work, unless you want to take the entire auger housing apart.


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## Shryp




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## HCBPH

*Impeller pulley's*

I just went through getting a 'stuck' impeller pulley off last weekend and here's that worked for me.
First off, I pulled off the whole auger housing.
I removed both set screws out of the pulley (some shafts have depressions for the screws) so they are definitely out far enough.
Check the end of the impeller shaft for any mushrooming from prior work. If I find any I use a flat file to remove it first.
I have 4 tools I use: a hammer, a piece of 1" thick wood, a piece of steel rebar that is slightly smaller in diameter than the shaft and a flat bar that looks like this: Stanley® Wonder Bar® Pry Bar, Flat Shape, High Carbon Steel, 12 3/8" | Staples®
I spray some PB Blaster or Kroil around the shaft and let it sit a while.
Next I arrange the auger housing so the shaft is up. Put the block of wood on the housing under the pulley (that will act as a pivot point).
Put the flatter end of the flat bar on the block and the end up against the impeller shaft but under the hub of the pulley.
I usually either sit on the flat bar or put a knee on it, put the end of the rebar on the end of the impeller shaft and tap on it with the hammer. You always want to keep upward pressure on the pulley. Give it a few taps, rotate the pulley about 1/4 turn and do it again and continue doing it.
If the pulley is stuck solid, I'll hit it again with PB Blaster or Kroil, let it sit a while and go at it again after an hour or two. Once in a great while I need to add a little heat to the pulley hub but be careful or you can cook your bearing.

This has always worked for me. The biggest thing though is don't overdo it with the hammer. You don't want to drive the auger shaft into the auger gearcase.

When I reassemble them, I clean the shaft up first (file and/or emery paper) and I use antiseize on both the shaft and the pulley bolts to make it easier on any future disassembly.

Hope that helps, let us know how it goes for you.


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## Wrenchbender

HCBPH,

Yes indeed, I have a flat pry bar. I call it a "nail puller." The wood will add leverage. I never put pressure on the outer diameter of the pulley, just on the hub near the shaft. I don't have the auger housing off, so right now I can't do the hammering, but it's only 6 more bolts to take off the housing, so I might go that route.

I hear you on the PB Blaster soak. It's been soaking a couple of days. Still cold and dry here.

No one has ever beat on this one before, but I wonder if those set screw holes leave a bit of a burr on the shaft. I sprayed PB in them but I wonder about maybe turning a reamer that just fits the holes by hand in there. Probably wouldn't hurt. Then I'm going to try prying again, then heat and prying, then if it's still stuck I'll take off the auger housing. That way I'll get an idea if something short of pounding on the shaft will work.

An earlier post mentioned a key, but looking at the end of the shaft, I don't see any keyway. Do the pulleys with set screws not have a key?  I hate those keys anyway, putting them in is a PITA every time. There are enough keys to worry about in the gearbox!


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## HCBPH

*Pulley*

Wrenchbender

It's entirely possible you have a pulley without a keyway. That should make it easier to get off (with luck). One thing I do is when I put them back together, I use some antiseize on the shaft etc to make future maintenance easier.

Another thing I've started doing is shimming between the back of the impeller and the impeller bearing. Trying to help add a little life to the auger gearcase bushing. We'll see if that pays off over time or not.


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## td5771

If you get your complete model number and serial number you can go to the site I linked in on my previous reply and change the model. The toro I selected was just a guess.

It will give you a better indication whether or not you have a keyway.


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## Wrenchbender

Thanks to all for getting me much more well informed. It's going to be about 20 above today, so working in t he unheated garage won't be too bad.


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## Wrenchbender

td5771 said:


> If you get your complete model number and serial number you can go to the site I linked in on my previous reply and change the model. The toro I selected was just a guess.
> 
> It will give you a better indication whether or not you have a keyway.


Through a process of heat and more prying with the auger housing still attached, I now see about 1/8" of that rotten key showing. And that's where progress on moving the pulley ceased. I heated the pulley collar around the keyway real good, pried hard, but no budge.

Question now is, do I do anything to the key, like hammer on the end I can see with a punch? Heat the key itself?

The model number for this Toro 521 2-stage blower is 38052, Serial 901xxxx, so it's probably built in '89.

Hope this thread helps others who have this problem (it seems that a lot do, considering how much chatter there is about it on line) ;-)


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## Wrenchbender

td5771 said:


> If you get your complete model number and serial number you can go to the site I linked in on my previous reply and change the model. The toro I selected was just a guess.
> 
> It will give you a better indication whether or not you have a keyway.


Through a process of heat and more prying with the auger housing still attached, I now see about 1/8" of that rotten key showing. And that's where progress on moving the pulley ceased. I heated the pulley collar around the keyway real good, pried hard, but no budge.

Question now is, do I do anything to the key, like hammer on the end I can see with a punch? Heat the key itself?

I soaked the key and keyway on both sides of the pulley with PB Blaster and am just wondering the most likely next step/

BTW, the model number for this Toro 521 2-stage blower is 38052, Serial 901xxxx, so it's probably built in '89.

Hope this thread helps others who have this problem (it seems that a lot do, considering how much chatter there is about it on line) ;-)


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## Wrenchbender

Well, a variation of HCBPH's method, but I put the wood blocks behind the pulley before tapping on the shaft with a piece of re-bar. I was surprised how clean and oily the shaft was. The oil was probably PB Blaster that had soaked in. The shaft itself is pretty black, though, so it had built up a layer of something over the years. Doesn't look like any sanding will be needed, just polishing it up.

Anyway, I think that splitting the blower is the only way to do this pulley removal operation. Even if you somehow got the pulley off without tapping on the shaft end, which you couldn't get at, I don't think there would be room enough to get it back on past the other pulley on this machine. So, with the Toro 521, at least just go straight to the rather easy job of taking the blower apart in the middle. 

The difference in how I did the final operation was, I used two wood blocks BETWEEN the pulley and the housing (2 x 4 chunks about 4" long fit right in laid flat. That way, the pulley was nicely supported. Then, I propped up each side of the auger housing to make sure there was enough clearance so I wouldn't just be beating the auger into the ground! Needed a bit more clearance than a 2" board for this, so I set pieces of 2 bys on top of 1/2" boards. Make sure it sits solid with no rocking before you start to pound. I found that the boards needed to be toward the curved front of the housing to prop it up solid.

Then, the rebar and just solid tapping with a fairly small hammer, not much heavier than a nail hammer. The key was solidly in the keyway, and after came out in good shape with a couple of pries from a screwdriver. After that, the auger/impeller and shaft slid right out.

Now the work on the gearbox can be done in the heated basement. I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks again for the great tips!


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## Wrenchbender

OK, so I spent New Year's Eve Day tearing apart the auger gearbox and got to the point I knew I would.

Most of the teardown went well, the gear case is split, the impeller shaft comes right out, it just lays in the casting with the worm on the end. The worm itself is removable from the impeller shaft (as it isn't in some cases). The directions say to remove the the "worm gear" which is the round gear on the auger shaft that mates to the worm on the impeller shaft, by "sliding" it off the shaft.

Well, the case didn't "slide" off the shaft until I had wire-brushed it quite a bit, even though the bushings in the case halves were pretty worn. So how is this gear, which seems to run on a machined part of the auger shaft, which is actually smaller than the rest of the shaft, supposed to "slide" off?

I didn't even try to remove the keys yet (there are two of them on the gear).

First off, what is the best way to remove the keys?

Second, what is the best way to get the gear off the shaft? It's a looong way to the end of that shaft. Is one way better than the other? Does the shaft need to be ground down? Is it best to just go to a machine shop and have the gear pressed off and the new one pressed on?

So many questions, and the new year is yet so young!

Thanks for any suggestions


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## td5771

the keys will not come out until the gear is slid off.

the shaft should be all the same size. If it appears to be bigger on either side of the gear, do the halvess of the gear case have bushings the auger shaft rides in? you said they were well worn. I would guess the shaft on either side of the gear appears bigger because the material from the worn bushings has deposited itself on the auger shaft. you need to clean up along side the gear and slide it off. 

If you are replacing the gear you can stand the shaft on end and tap it on one side then the other back and forth until it slides, heat wouldnt hurt.

Or if your replacing it and want it off to see how much you need to do to clean upthe shaft. split it by cutting through it in one or two places with a hacksaw close to allthe way and use a chisel or big screwdriver to open it up.

with the gear off and cleaned up the new gear should slide on easily


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## Wrenchbender

td5771 said:


> the keys will not come out until the gear is slid off.
> 
> the shaft should be all the same size. If it appears to be bigger on either side of the gear, do the halvess of the gear case have bushings the auger shaft rides in? you said they were well worn. I would guess the shaft on either side of the gear appears bigger because the material from the worn bushings has deposited itself on the auger shaft. you need to clean up along side the gear and slide it off.
> 
> If you are replacing the gear you can stand the shaft on end and tap it on one side then the other back and forth until it slides, heat wouldnt hurt.
> 
> Or if your replacing it and want it off to see how much you need to do to clean upthe shaft. split it by cutting through it in one or two places with a hacksaw close to allthe way and use a chisel or big screwdriver to open it up.
> 
> with the gear off and cleaned up the new gear should slide on easily


This is what I did and it worked:

The auger shaft was "swollen" from rust. I tried wire-brush and a drill, but no luck. I had used a metal file to take the burr off of each shear pin hole on the ends, so I thought why not file the whole shaft from the point where the rust started.

So, filing just on the side that I wanted to get the gear off allowed me to tap off the old gear, and slide on the new one. BTW, I did no no cleanup on the shaft opposite the case half that the gear runs in. I didn't even take that half of the case off. I don't believe I'll need to, but if so I'll post on that.

Note: on mine there were two slots on the gear for keys, but only one slot to receive a key on the shaft.

I looked at the gears carefully before putting on the new one, and danged if I could see any difference which side I put on first.

The worm came off the end of the impeller shaft OK, but was harder to strike. I needed to use a cold chisel and tap it due to the angle (the impeller still being attached due to the fact that on this model the impeller is welded to the shaft).

It looked to me by the instructions that the worm on some models (I think they mentioned the 824) is machined right on the end of the auger shaft, so just for those who wonder about this one, it looks like you have to buy the whole shaft with the gear already on it. The shaft on this type is removable from the impeller itself.


NOW, QUESTION:

Am I right that the gears can go on either way? I'd hate to put it back together and find out they don't mesh right, or run the wrong way. Some advice on this would be much appreciated.

I hope this thread helps others with the same model. So far, it looks like this model 521 is easier to get apart than some of the others, with fewer parts to unbolt, and the advantage of a removable worm.


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## Wrenchbender

Sorry to keep posting to my own posts, but I would like to report that the gears are in and the halves of the gear case back together, packed in grease. Turning the impeller by hand makes the auger shaft turn smoothly, so it seems likely to work.

Packing the case with grease is another thing that was not in the instructions, but I'd highly recommend for those who work on snow blowers that require grease rather than gear oil. From what I could see, pumping grease in through that little bitty plug hole would be time-consuming and probably not give adequate coverage-- certainly not for the first few minutes of operation.

I doubt I'll put any more grease in it now until I run it for a while, then maybe add a couple of squirts in the plug hole if there is no leakage that seems to come from internal pressure.

I'd still like to know about the interchangeable direction of the auger shaft gear-- in this case there was no "R" stamped on the side like they said there would be, so I just had to guess.


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## Shryp

I can't help you with the direction of the auger gear as that always made me wonder as well. I am glad you got everything put back together and working properly. Make sure you get the left and right augers back on the correct sides. Before you put the assembly back in the front housing make sure you turn it by hand and make sure the augers are pushing snow towards the center and not outwards. If they push outwards you have them backwards.

Those little plugs are a pain. I am not sure why those types of gear boxes don't use grease fittings instead. Maybe when you had it apart you should have drilled a hole for a grease fitting and then you could just stick a grease gun on it and pump a few squirts into it every couple years.


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## Wrenchbender

Shryp said:


> I can't help you with the direction of the auger gear as that always made me wonder as well. I am glad you got everything put back together and working properly. Make sure you get the left and right augers back on the correct sides. Before you put the assembly back in the front housing make sure you turn it by hand and make sure the augers are pushing snow towards the center and not outwards. If they push outwards you have them backwards.
> 
> Those little plugs are a pain. I am not sure why those types of gear boxes don't use grease fittings instead. Maybe when you had it apart you should have drilled a hole for a grease fitting and then you could just stick a grease gun on it and pump a few squirts into it every couple years.


Thanks for letting me know I'm not the only one who wonders about that gear. Supposedly, some of them are marked with an "R" and a little arrow, but not the ones we've seen, evidently.

The augers had me spooked because they were the only directional parts that I could see where left and right would matter... so I laid them out and put the shaft between them and made a mental note of the alignment. But I will double-check as you say. I didn't quite have the smarts to figure out visually what it should look like when turning, but your description is very good.

A grease fitting is a great idea. I have a bunch laying around, and maybe, with a little luck, the threads will match. I'll post the results.


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## Wrenchbender

Shryp said:


> Before you put the assembly back in the front housing make sure you turn it by hand and make sure the augers are pushing snow towards the center and not outwards. If they push outwards you have them backwards.
> 
> Those little plugs are a pain. I am not sure why those types of gear boxes don't use grease fittings instead. Maybe when you had it apart you should have drilled a hole for a grease fitting and then you could just stick a grease gun on it and pump a few squirts into it every couple years.


Shryp,

Thanks for all your help. I finally had another accumulation of snow to give me a chance for a test run. Everything worked good. I might try putting that grease "zerk" fitting in there yet, but for right now it probably has plenty of grease.

One final note on the re-assembly. I missed a neoprene ring that was left on the impeller shaft that goes into the housing for the gears. GOOD thing I saw it before I put the auger back in. I was able to loosen the gear housing and squeak the ring into the channel. Actually, this might have been easier than trying to line up the casing and the ring at the same time.

Anyway, back on the driveway and sidewalks with the olde Toro 521. Well over 20 years old, and the auger gears showed it.

A LAST QUESTION RELATED TO ENGINES:

I have a basic Tecumseh flathead that works great, however it has a habit of surging when the engine is under no load or light load conditions. I believe the adjustment for this is the piece of metal with about 20 holes in it that connects to a spring (the whole thing is the governor assembly, I think).

My question: When the engine surges at idle or light load WHICH DIRECTION should I move the spring... to a "higher" hole or to a "lower" one.

Many thanks.

BTW, I got my gears at Amazon for just 80 bucks, and they seem to be just fine, if anyone is in the market for new ones.

P.S. Shryp: The auger turned the right direction the first try! Thanks for the warning.


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## Shryp

I wouldn't try to move the spring. Leave that where it is and try to open the idle jet just a bit. The idle jet is the low speed screw on the side of the carb and not the high speed screw on the bottom of the bowl.


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## Wrenchbender

Shryp said:


> I wouldn't try to move the spring. Leave that where it is and try to open the idle jet just a bit. The idle jet is the low speed screw on the side of the carb and not the high speed screw on the bottom of the bowl.


You spotted the problem right away Shryp. I moved the spring already and never got a smooth idle since. Can't identify the original hole it was in either. I have messed around with the idle screw to try to smooth it out, and maybe I need to do some more with that.

Remember that it surges when the throttle is opened UP, and it's not under load or under light load, so that's why I didn't try much with the idle setting. The other carb settings don't seem to fix the problem either, just make it run worse or stop.

It's not a subtle surge, but a VROOM blut blut blut VRoom blut blut blut. Almost like you were jerking the throttle open and closed. I'm sure it's somehow related to the governor.

One thing that fixes it: putting the choke on the first notch closed from full open. But then it's running too rich. Poor old thing, I don't think it's good for it to be changing RPM like that all the time. Puts an extra load on it, and makes the neighbors wonder if I'm crazy, I bet.

Any other suggestions? There's nothing in the manual about this.


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## td5771

with a surging motor I have had to adjust the carb float.

there are two ways I have seen, ensure the float is parallel to the carb bbody when needle is closed ( or carb upside down) and the other is to lay i believe an 11/64 drill bit across the body with the carb upside down and get the float to just touch the drill bit.


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## Wrenchbender

This seemed to work:

Adjusted the idle set screw (not the jet) until it was idling too fast, and adjusted the power adjustment (at the bottom of the bowl) leaner until it idled down. It stopped surging, idles a little rough, but probably need to adjust the idle mixture a little bit. Just turning the high speed (power) screw back an forth might have loosened some crud in the float bowl and helped too. Who knows? I think it's ready for another run tomorrow as there is more snow falling.

There's a little "cap" that sits at the end of the shaft for rotating the chute that didn't have enough grip left in it and fell off. Almost lost the little rubber worm that turns the chute! Pretty sure I can find a washer a little smaller than the shaft that I can pound on there tomorrow. I don 't know what those little caps are called, but apparently they're only good for one use, and after removing them need to be replaced.


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## Shryp

Ahh, those little caps suck. Is there enough of the shaft sticking out you could maybe get a hose clamp on it? Or maybe drill a small hole in it for a cotter pin?


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## dave23

Guys, I just found this thread (and site) and I'm just doing the same thing. My Toro 521 augers stopped on me while trying to clear this weekends storm. I suspect that I've hit the pavement too many times, and at least one of the gears is missing some teeth.

I found and watched the DonyBoy Toro videos and I have split my machine. But I'm hung on pulling that auger pulley from the impeller shaft.

I've soaked with PB Blaster, and tried prying on it with hammer taps.
I will try this wood block method. Not sure what you did with the rebar?
Exactly where did you tap on what?

I tried a puller on the pulley but that only started bending it. It snapped back, I don't think it's permanently bent much.

I got out a torch and tried some heat, but I didn't over do it.
I think I'm going to replace the bearing anyways.

With respect to gear box work, he also has a video where he puts a broken Cub Cadet gear box back together. Proably a lot of the same issues 



I like how their pulleys mount. No drama there.

Thanks,
Dave.


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## Wrenchbender

Dave,

The re-bar can be any short length of bar that's slightly smaller than the pulley shaft. The nice thing about propping it up so the auger is clear of the ground is you can gently pound the pulley shaft out of the pulley, instead of trying to pull the pulley off of the shaft. You also have to support the pulley from behind with pieces of wood laid across the red housing and under the sides of the pulley.

I hope that explains it. A pic would be nice, but I didn't really know when I had it set up right until it was off. You'll get it, I'll bet.

Shryp,

The small hose-clamp was exactly what I decided on after looking at what might work! However, the clamp was with some pieces of gas line for in-line gas filters and I though, why not just slide a short little piece of hose on first, then clamp it at the far end so the clamp doesn't hang up on the piece the shaft goes through?

It may not be such a brilliant idea--I haven't put it on yet--but I think it'll work. I might need a larger id piece of hose to fit the shaft.

I'll let you know how it works out.


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## dave23

Two nights of banging on various things in various ways and no progress.
Last night I tried Donyboy's idea of drilling holes in the pulley and using a puller. Two holes later and still no movement. 

I may end up destroying the pulley and cutting it off the shaft.... though I don't own an angle grinder.... yet.


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## HCBPH

*Stuck pulley*



dave23 said:


> Two nights of banging on various things in various ways and no progress.
> Last night I tried Donyboy's idea of drilling holes in the pulley and using a puller. Two holes later and still no movement.
> 
> I may end up destroying the pulley and cutting it off the shaft.... though I don't own an angle grinder.... yet.


Dave

Don't cut the shaft, it's alot easier to replace a pulley than the impeller shaft. Check closely, somethings I've found stacked set screws, check carefully you don't have that going on. Have you gotten any movement at all out of the pulley to shaft? If it came a bit then sticks, the end of the impeller shaft could be mushroomed. If that's the case, then you need to drive it back and take that off with a file.
I've heard very good reports of a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF cutting through rust but have not tried it yet.
On a torch, if it's a propane it's not going to heat the hub enough to work it loose. Even a MAPP gas torch is barely enough. You need something like an Oxy torch to really heat it then you'll likely fry the impeller bearing in the process.
Once you do have it off, before putting it back together clean the shaft real good. I've been using antiseize on the shaft prior to putting the pulley back on plus put antiseize on the setscrews also. Should make it easier in the future if it ever has to come off again.

One other thing. I have dealt with a number of rusted on augers in the past. Seems like if you leave it outside on a cold night, when I hit it with a Mapp gas torch they come loose easier. Don't know if it will work on a pulley due to the thicker material but it's sure worth a shot.


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## Wrenchbender

I don't want to insult your intelligence, Dave, but I have to ask: You did remove the bolts (two on each side of the auger housing) that hold the auger in place, I presume. The book says to do this to gain some room for getting the pulley off without splitting the blower. But since you've already split it, I doubt there's any way you'd neglect the auger bolts.

If you still have some faith in the method of pounding the shaft out of the pulley, rather than pulling on the pulley, remember that you need ground clearance for the auger to move or you'll just be pounding the auger into the ground or onto the floor if you're working inside. Tip the housing on end and put blocks under it for clearance. You should be pounding DOWN on the shaft. Pieces of board under the sides of the pulley, as mentioned earlier, will maintain the clearance between the hub and the housing, otherwise you could end up pounding the shaft against the bearing as well as the pulley.

I didn't need to pound hard, just some good raps broke it loose, and it was stuck HARD. I also heated the hub with a propane torch, but I don't think it helped much.

Remember, if it sticks, jiggle it! If it doesn't go, try from different angles instead of just straight down.


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## dave23

Thanks for the feedback guys. 
- I had removed the collar screws (why square? a hex would allow a socket on them!) It gives two holes to put PB Blaster in. 

- I have achieved almost no movement, if anything I might have moved it further down the shaft.

- I have put the unit either face down, pulley up. Or on it's side, pulley sideways, and tapped and banged, with pressure on the collar from a pry bar. No progress.

- If I cut anything it would be the pulley collar, not the shaft. But I just looked up pulley replacement cost $71. So I'm going to try some more.
There is no rust in here, I don't understand the problem, other than ..say... 24 years of use.

- I might of peened the end of the shaft a bit, so my next step will be to get out the Dremel and try to round the end, clean it up. You can bet that once I get this off, that I'm going to polish it up good. I have already bought a tube of anti-sieze.

- I had problems with the 5/16 bolts that came with the puller, getting under the collar... so I'm going to get some longer, thinner bolts and see if I get get a better grip.

- I only have a propane torch, so my heating capability is limited. But it is in the garage - not a heated space. I may end up replacing the bearing as well, it's got some slop.

Dave.


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## Wrenchbender

I'd let the bearing go, unless you're sure it's bad. It actually has built-in "slop" as it's made to move inside its housing. I didn't notice this until re-assembly, but then it became clear that it was meant to move slightly. Mine was sticking some so I hit it with PB Blaster and then greased it. It's a clever setup that obviously saves wear when the shaft is being torqued around by the auger. Never saw a bearing setup like this before. Kind of hard to describe, but look closely and you'll what I mean.

Best of luck with that pulley. Mine had exactly two years less "experience" than yours, but I don't think two extra years cam make any difference for getting the pulley off. It's gotta go.


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## dave23

Wrenchbender: I'm re-reading your previous post on technique. Did you remove the auger axle bearings, so that the impeller shaft was hanging by the pulley hub on the impeller bearing?
This would explain your comments about driving the shaft out.

as for bearings and stuff... I'm really trying to get this apart so I can judge what is good enough and what really needs replacing. Best case it's only one of the gears in the auger gear box... but until I can get it torn down, I cannot tell.

In the meantime, I've located guys in the area that have used assemblies and whole front ends for reasonable prices. I found a whole Toro 521 front end for $150 on eBay. If I can just remove this dang pulley, I can buy only what I need. I hate being defeated by rust.


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## Shryp

For $150 you could get a complete and running 3521/421/521 here on craigslist.


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## dave23

Shryp said:


> For $150 you could get a complete and running 3521/421/521 here on craigslist.


Yeah, I just found one for $75. But I think it sold... There are two running 824s for $125. Each has minor problems, and someone beat me to the better one.

There are many for more though. My initial $ were set by part cost to fix. which I guessed was $100+. Now that I'm stuck, I'll look at the tradeoffs vs. my failing labor.
I notice that I can get auger gears for cheaper on eBay than propartsdirect.net .


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## dave23

dave23 said:


> Yeah, I just found one for $75. But I think it sold...


I managed to snag this 521. Didn't notice lack of electric starter until I got home. Used it on Sunday. A bit more rusty than mine, so I'd still like to get this dang pulley off. Maybe swap assemblies and use it as a parts donor.


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## Flannelman

I had one that I cut holes in the pulley just large enough to get the jaws of my puller through and then put pressure on it with the puller. Sprayed penetrant on it and heated it and it came off


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## Wrenchbender

dave23 said:


> Wrenchbender: I'm re-reading your previous post on technique. Did you remove the auger axle bearings, so that the impeller shaft was hanging by the pulley hub on the impeller bearing?
> This would explain your comments about driving the shaft out.


Absolutely, but the auger axle don't really need "removal" all you have to do is take out the two bolts on each side of the auger housing. The auger is loose at that point. Then you prop up the housing so there's clearance for the auger, support the pulley from behind with a couple of pieces of 1" wood, and THEN pound (or tap) the end of the impeller shaft. It'll work just like HCBPH said it would.

All you need to spend is about $80 for the gears (got mine on Amazon), replace them by following shop instructions (also available on-line at Toro site). The only reason I went this route was to see if I could get my snow blower working for $80 instead of spending $800 on a new one.

I wasn't about to buy a used one that would end up to be just buying someone else's similar problems-- or worse. I know there are good used ones out there, but I think the odds are only about 50/50 of improving your situation that way.

BTW Shryp, the hose clamp on the end of the shaft for the chute direction lever worked like a charm. My piece of hose went over the end fine, but there wasn't enough of the shaft sticking out to get it to grip right, even using the hose clamp. So, a real small hose clamp works, and will not interfere with the worm gear or the cogs around the chute. Whoopee! Took it out for its second round of blowing Friday night and everything worked fine.

I still need to do some tuning to get the engine to idle down right. It doesn't surge any more, but now it won't idle down. When you set to a lower throttle setting and put it under load, you can tell right away that it doesn't have enough power, but you can have it at the lowest throttle setting when it's not under load and it "idles" at about full speed. Hm.


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