# Wheels locked



## Joe04785 (Feb 22, 2016)

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and just bought a used craftsman snowblower that needs work on the drive train. When I bought it the wheels were locked up. I tore everything apart and noticed the jack shaft was cocked to one side. I figured it was the bushings and took it all out. Once I got it all out the bushings seemed fine. The jacks haft had no up and down movement but did have quite a bit side to side movement. The only thing that seems to be wrong with it is the hex shaft with the small sprocket, the teeth looked to be worn down. Something had to make these teeth get worn down like that and I'm trying to figure out what. I would appreciate any help on this. Thanks.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Perhaps you could give the model number of the machine, year of manufacturer etc. A few more photos with better focus would also help. If possible, do you have a link to the parts listing for it to save our googling fingers?


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

I would suspect that you have a bad bearing or bushing that allowed the shaft to wobble to much...... either way I would replace them all when tearing it down that far anyway. Look everything over closely.


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## Joe04785 (Feb 22, 2016)

Model # C95052730-7. I have no idea what year the machine is. I was told it was about 8 or nine years old. I haven't begun to look for parts as of yet.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

It looks like that sprocket is permanently attached to the hex shaft. It is a Murray built machine, sold originally thru Sears Canada.

Partstree.com shows the part 

207 Murray 1501100MA (replaces 1501236MA) 
HEX SHAFT ASSEMBLY 

More details
Your price: $25.16
0 of these in your cart


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

I have seen one or two where the teeth were just worn from use. They usually just skip but occasionally a tooth would hit the chain in the center of a roller and lock up. Most chains are pretty loose on snowblowers. I know they want to save money but would it kill them to put a tensioner in there? Even just a hard nylon type? I had the hard nylon type in my snow sharks, they lasted 40 years.


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## Joe04785 (Feb 22, 2016)

Thanks for all the info. I just ordered parts and they are on the way.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I've had a couple of blowers with severely damaged teeth on a sprocket. It looked to be because the 2 sprockets didn't line up and/or one was sliding side-to-side. Shimming the sprockets to they stayed aligned was useful. I also took another sprocket from a parts machine to replace the badly worn one.


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## Joe04785 (Feb 22, 2016)

What is the best method for shimming the sprockets? What are you using to shim the sprockets? It has side to side movement on the jackshaft. Thanks.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

We have a chain of stores called Fleet Farm here, nothing more than a Farm Supply store. I can buy packs of various diameter shims for various shaft sizes. It's not rocket science, just take up most of the slack.

Check locally for a farm supply place, another might be truck or autoparts places for shims that match your shaft size. If nothing else, google for area for machine parts.

Depending on what you have, I've shimmed them several ways. Sometimes there's a welded washer on the shaft inside of a bronze bushing, that's one place you can slip them. Another way if you don't something to retain them, check out your supplier for split collars. Some are 2 piece and designed when tightened up will grip a shaft tightly. Others are one piece with a set screw. Put one on the shaft to snug up against the bushings you put in.

For example, if I wanted to shim the axel shaft on the left side in this picture: http://s162.photobucket.com/user/hcbph/media/Snowblower Mods/IM001211.jpg.html?sort=3&o=8
I would insert some shims between the bushing and the collar on the left side. Do it wherever it makes sense to tighten up the slop if any.


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