# tecumseh surging



## colosnow (Dec 15, 2019)

Hello all. Merry Christmas. This is what I have: Ariens 1332LE with SnowKing Tecumseh OH358SA, 223842F. DOM is 05253CB0037. The best I can tell is that the current carb is a model 640105. As I remember (??) it ran OK last winter. Now it surges bad (some people call it hunting). My first question is: how do you get the carb off? It has only 2 bolts that are torx heads and there is no room for a torx tool. Maybe there is a special thin torx tool? Anyway that will get me started. I actually got the bolts loose by using vicegrip pliers...don't like to do that and don't want to do that to tighten then back on. Any one else have this problem? John


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

On some models it's easier to remove the intake manifold at the engine rather than removing the carb from the manifold. Can you post any photos? It normally doesn't require special tools or techniques to remove a Tecumseh carb in my experience.


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## colosnow (Dec 15, 2019)

rod330 said:


> On some models it's easier to remove the intake manifold at the engine rather than removing the carb from the manifold. Can you post any photos? It normally doesn't require special tools or techniques to remove a Tecumseh carb in my experience.


Hi rod330. If necessary I'll take some pic and try to post. But this engine doesn't have an intake manifold. The carb bolts directly to the engine. I found a diagram and it also didn't show a manifold.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

colosnow said:


> Hello all. Merry Christmas. This is what I have: Ariens 1332LE with SnowKing Tecumseh OH358SA, 223842F. DOM is 05253CB0037. The best I can tell is that the current carb is a model 640105. As I remember (??) it ran OK last winter. Now it surges bad (some people call it hunting). My first question is: how do you get the carb off? It has only 2 bolts that are torx heads and there is no room for a torx tool. Maybe there is a special thin torx tool? Anyway that will get me started. I actually got the bolts loose by using vicegrip pliers...don't like to do that and don't want to do that to tighten then back on. Any one else have this problem? John



as i recall you put them on the other direction and then have room to get at them better
you can also get rid of the torx if you choose
I had the same blower
clean the carb or buy a new one for 14 bucks
I raised engine rpm to 3825 rpm with imp kit was throwing close to 60 feet great motor 17 ish lb ft torq always started 1 pull


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

If you get lucky, this little trick can solve surging issues without having to remove the carb....something to try. You'll still want to drain out the old fuel, remove the carb bowl and clean it at a bare minimum. 






And, Merry Christmas!


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## colosnow (Dec 15, 2019)

Thanks 1132le. Can't put bolts in reverse...they bolt directly to block...no manifold and no way to get to "other side". I replaced torx bolts with allen head bolts and can use ball-end allen wrenches to tighten them up, but only can hope it got them tight enough. Haven't started it yet to see if carb cleaning fixed the surge problem. Spark plug did indicate lean mixture ( white). No way to vent garage so will move outdoors tomorrow to start and check out. But am still really wondering about how others got those bolts out? See ya all back here tomorrow.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

colosnow said:


> Thanks 1132le. Can't put bolts in reverse...they bolt directly to block...no manifold and no way to get to "other side". I replaced torx bolts with allen head bolts and can use ball-end allen wrenches to tighten them up, but only can hope it got them tight enough. Haven't started it yet to see if carb cleaning fixed the surge problem. Spark plug did indicate lean mixture ( white). No way to vent garage so will move outdoors tomorrow to start and check out. But am still really wondering about how others got those bolts out? See ya all back here tomorrow.



i was talking about the carb to manifold bolts
dont over tighten those its not the space shuttle


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

Maybe something like this....not sure it would have enough torque to break loose a really tight screw. I think your ball head allen wrench idea is a better solution. You just have to make sure it's tight enough to prevent air leaks.

https://www.amazon.com/MulWark-Profile-Ratchet-Quarters-Screwdriver/dp/B07D4DZB1T/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=angled%2Btorx%2Bwrench&qid=1576386088&sr=8-12&th=1


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## colosnow (Dec 15, 2019)

colosnow said:


> Thanks 1132le. Can't put bolts in reverse...they bolt directly to block...no manifold and no way to get to "other side". I replaced torx bolts with allen head bolts and can use ball-end allen wrenches to tighten them up, but only can hope it got them tight enough. Haven't started it yet to see if carb cleaning fixed the surge problem. Spark plug did indicate lean mixture ( white). No way to vent garage so will move outdoors tomorrow to start and check out. But am still really wondering about how others got those bolts out? See ya all back here tomorrow.


PS: I tried hex head bolts, but the hex head was too large and hit the carb body and couldn't be turned. I looked for "small head hex head bolts, but couldn't find them at ACE hardware. I guess I could take a torx bit, cut it shorter, and use an open end wrench to turn it...I might try that later!


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## WABOOM (Mar 2, 2019)

It might be your governor causing over-rev and then slowing it back down. Kinda tricky to get those adjusted if that's what it is.


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

rod330 said:


> If you get lucky, this little trick can solve surging issues without having to remove the carb....something to try. You'll still want to drain out the old fuel, remove the carb bowl and clean it at a bare minimum.
> 
> https://youtu.be/GT0STIPg4I8
> 
> And, Merry Christmas!


Merry Christmas to all!
I totally agree with Rod330 on this video. I had a Craftsman ( Murray Noma 8.5 HP Tecumseh) for 20 years, and about 18 years or so in, it started idling poorly and surging. But I did 2 different things. I did this service as DonyBoy73 shows, but I also removed the nut holding on the carb bowl.That nut acts as the jet, and it gets plugged with dirt as well. I cleaned both, and my blower ran like new. My Dad had exactly the same blower, and the same issues.... I performed the same services, and he is still using his today, and his blower is now 22 years old. Check out Donyboy73's site for the other video. He is a master at his craft.:wink2::smile2::grin:


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## mfrs2000 (Dec 1, 2014)

T27?


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## colosnow (Dec 15, 2019)

Rod330 Thanks for that wrench idea. Actually I had that tool one time. And you jogged my memory. I guess I didn't think I'd ever need it and now can't find it. If it leaks at the gasket, I'll get the tool and try it. 
WABOOM thanks I'll check on the governor too. I'm taking it outside now to see how it runs...I'll post soon.John


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

WABOOM said:


> It might be your governor causing over-rev and then slowing it back down. Kinda tricky to get those adjusted if that's what it is.



Gov is the last thing to touch
if it was running fine end of last year then 99% its the carb
if you mess with the gov and dont know what you are doing then you have 2 issues instead of 1


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## colosnow (Dec 15, 2019)

1132le Right! I agree and understand. Well just took it out of garage and started it up. Runs good, idle and fast. No backfire or surge. Even after it warmed up. No snow (thanks) to see it work under load, but I think it will be OK now. Must have been the carb. It didn't look dirty at all, but cleaned out all the holes with fine wire and carb cleaner and I guess that did the trick. OH, and I didn't do anything to the gov. Now for the next question/discussion. Have any of you tried the QAZAKY CARBs? https://www.amazon.com/QAZAKY-Carburetor-Tecumseh-640065A-OV358EA/dp/B074V6QVD7/ref=sr_1_106?keywords=QAZAKY&qid=1576440210&sr=8-106 They have a direct replacement for the 640105 and also this one that is for a 13hp Tecumseh. Looks like it might be a richer mixer carb? Just wondering. Also why should I not buy a carb with adjustable jets? Thanks, John


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

colosnow said:


> 1132le Right! I agree and understand. Well just took it out of garage and started it up. Runs good, idle and fast. No backfire or surge. Even after it warmed up. No snow (thanks) to see it work under load, but I think it will be OK now. Must have been the carb. It didn't look dirty at all, but cleaned out all the holes with fine wire and carb cleaner and I guess that did the trick. OH, and I didn't do anything to the gov. Now for the next question/discussion. Have any of you tried the QAZAKY CARBs? https://www.amazon.com/QAZAKY-Carbu...1_106?keywords=QAZAKY&qid=1576440210&sr=8-106 They have a direct replacement for the 640105 and also this one that is for a 13hp Tecumseh. Looks like it might be a richer mixer carb? Just wondering. Also why should I not buy a carb with adjustable jets? Thanks, John


 Pretty sure that wont fit the oh358cc
the dont make a carb you can adjust
3800 rpm and an imp kit that machine will blow doors i miss the 16 inch rakes and tall bucket


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## colosnow (Dec 15, 2019)

mfrs2000. Right size torx, but just not enough space to use it. It can be used on the left side, but at an angle. The images here might help explain what the problem is. The right bolt is at the same level as the fuel intake is so it is impossible to get a straight shot onto the bolt. The ball-end allen lets the tool go into the bolt at an angle from above the intake and to the right.


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

Will getting that choke rod out of the way give you a better angle on the right side?
It looks like you still have the bracket attached to the carb that holds on the heater cover box. If you remove the two screws holding that U shaped bracket at the carb throat, the choke rod will come off with it. Maybe I'm not looking at it incorrectly though.


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## 3repete (Nov 12, 2017)

I'm glad the carb service succeeded.

On those carburetor torx head bolts. 
You may be able to snug them by using a torx bit and turning it with a ratcheting box wrench or just the open end of the wrench.


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## WABOOM (Mar 2, 2019)

1132le said:


> Gov is the last thing to touch
> if it was running fine end of last year then 99% its the carb
> if you mess with the gov and dont know what you are doing then you have 2 issues instead of 1


Right on. That's why I included "if that's what it is" and "they are tricky to adjust".


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Is there enough room to get a Torx hex screwdriver bit in the obstructed one? If so, put it in place, and use a 1/4" open end wrench on the hex part of the bit to break it loose. Kinda ugly, but it does work . . .


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