# Chute Radius on Ariens 921037



## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

Last year sometime, one of the members posted a thread about making the chute turn tighter to the outsides by changing or altering the geared disk ( I believe) on the blower. I looked and cannot seem to find this information. Does anyone know what I need to do in order to increase the turning range? I find that the does not turn tight enough to each side.:smiley-confused013:


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

I just did my new Deluxe 28 last week. Basically-
1. Remove the black plastic cover, 
2. Unbolt stuff (easy to figure it out) while taking careful note as to each washer's position and orientation.
3. Cut off the entire "dog" on the toothed gear.
4. Reassemble.
5. Give the black plastic cover a bit of a hair cut as required.
6. Pay attention to the deflector cable routing. I changed mine to the back side of the black support tube.
6a. If you decide to move your cable, the retaining clip in the tube will come loose if you push in on the two "legs" which are captured in the black metal tube. Get a light and look closely and you'll see what I mean. 
7. Go blow snow with about about 20 degrees additional chute rotation in both CW and CCW directions.

Hope this helps.


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

BazookaJoe said:


> I just did my new Deluxe 28 last week. Basically-
> 1. Remove the black plastic cover,
> 2. Unbolt stuff (easy to figure it out) while taking careful note as to each washer's position and orientation.
> 3. Cut off the entire "dog" on the toothed gear.
> ...


Hey,thanks for the quick reply.Not quite sure what you mean by the "dog"...but I will look into it at the earliest possible time. Getting an additional 20% is exactly what I would like to see.:grin:


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

Cutter- 

You're welcome- glad to help out. I had the same question and I had found the old post a while ago. This post has some before and after pictures of the chute movement, but not a lot of detail of the mod itself.

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...2-28-inch-921037-increase-chute-rotation.html

You'll see what I mean by the "dog" on the bottom side of the gear plate when you pull the black cover off. I should also add that without the "dogs", the chute will now bump against the vertical steel support. I added a small rubber pad to silence the "bang" and to prevent the chute's paint from chipping.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Another approach to extend the chute turning radius is to cut another tooth on each side of the gear attached to the chute. This keeps the two stops for the chute, but does noticeably extend the radius from stock. I moved the auger spare shear bolt holder to the other side of support to allow full movement and relocated the cable to the rear of the support post.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...2-28-inch-921037-increase-chute-rotation.html


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

Here is a pic showing which "dogs" you'll remove. Just cut them off with a hacksaw.


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

Hey Thanks Town.I do like your idea about the extra teeth on the gear. I will seriously consider both your and BazookaJoe's method. Wanted to do it today, but unfortunately my knee is swollen like a football....might have to be later in the week.


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

BazookaJoe said:


> Here is a pic showing which "dogs" you'll remove. Just cut them off with a hacksaw.



Thanks so much BazzookaJoe.....for the great illustration.I now know what I have to remove to make this happen.:smile2:

I saved it to my computer.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Cutter said:


> Hey Thanks Town.I do like your idea about the extra teeth on the gear. I will seriously consider both your and BazookaJoe's method. Wanted to do it today, but unfortunately my knee is swollen like a football....might have to be later in the week.


Those teeth on the outside of the gear are for the chute locking U shaped piece (Ariens calls it "chute, locking" see item 8 in chute control diagram pic) that is released from the teeth when you pull back on the chute turn handle. So partially removing the stop or fully removing the stop will not allow the chute to lock at the full turn points. The chute will therefore move under the snow force and on the right lock will push the chute into the belt cover and jam it into the engine drive pulley and damage it.

So for the full right turn position you just need to create another tooth so the chute will be locked about a 1/4" from the cover. You don't need to trim the stop at all.

For the full left turn you will want 2 extra teeth on the chute locking gear and you can grind a bit off the stop. That will put the chute a half inch from the support post. So move the auger shear bolt holder from the outside face of post to inside face of post and lower to just above the belt cover. I intend to drill two holes in flange of the chute post at back to secure chute deflector cable with tie strap, otherwise I have not found it to stay there. 

For this job you just need to remove the black cover and all you need is exposed. Attached are some pics giving illustrations of what I did years ago:


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Town said:


> Those teeth on the outside of the gear are for the chute locking U shaped piece (Ariens calls it "chute, locking" see item 8 in chute control diagram pic) that is released from the teeth when you pull back on the chute turn handle. So partially removing the stop or fully removing the stop will not allow the chute to lock at the full turn points. The chute will therefore move under the snow force and on the right lock will push the chute into the belt cover and jam it into the engine drive pulley and damage it.
> 
> So for the full right turn position you just need to create another tooth so the chute will be locked about a 1/4" from the cover. You don't need to trim the stop at all.
> 
> ...



i partially removed the stops the chute stays where its put doesn't slam the cover or move around if it did I wouldn't advise it to others here


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

1132le said:


> i partially removed the stops the chute stays where its put doesn't slam the cover or move around if it did I wouldn't advise it to others here


Sorry @1132le, mine is different to yours. If the stops are reduced then the lock does not engage and chute is free to move. It was the lack of locking at extremes that prompted the changes in about 2016 on my machine.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Town said:


> Sorry @*1132le*, mine is different to yours. If the stops are reduced then the lock does not engage and chute is free to move. It was the lack of locking at extremes that prompted the changes in about 2016 on my machine.



Cutters is the same as mine 

maybe he can do as you say but since its not the same he might ruin his gear or could have issues
this follow up post is for him not stepping on your toes Mr town


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

1132le said:


> Cutters is the same as mine
> 
> maybe he can do as you say but since its not the same he might ruin his gear or could have issues
> this follow up post is for him not stepping on your toes Mr town


No he cannot. Now that I look at @Cutter machine, a deluxe model, the chute control is different to my Platinum. The chute is controlled by the hand screw control which does not have a separate chute lock control. There is only one gear set for the hand control whereas the Platinum has two gearsets, one for turning the chute and the other on the outside for the chute lock. Sorry to get you all sidetracked.


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

1132le said:


> i partially removed the stops the chute stays where its put doesn't slam the cover or move around if it did I wouldn't advise it to others here


Yes, the chute will indeed strike the support after the the stop-dogs are completely removed. I had added in post #4 of this thread, to add rubber bumpers.

"I should also add that without the "dogs", the chute will now bump against the vertical steel support. I added a small rubber pad to silence the "bang" and to prevent the chute's paint from chipping."


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Boy, after all this discussion, I sure am glad I have the older Ariens, never had a chute issue. …


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

Town said:


> Those teeth on the outside of the gear are for the chute locking U shaped piece (Ariens calls it "chute, locking" see item 8 in chute control diagram pic) that is released from the teeth when you pull back on the chute turn handle. So partially removing the stop or fully removing the stop will not allow the chute to lock at the full turn points. The chute will therefore move under the snow force and on the right lock will push the chute into the belt cover and jam it into the engine drive pulley and damage it.
> 
> So for the full right turn position you just need to create another tooth so the chute will be locked about a 1/4" from the cover. You don't need to trim the stop at all.
> 
> ...



Thanks Town....your post totally cleared this up for me.I did have some questions about trimming or cutting of gears, but you have made it clear as day. Once my knee decides to behave, I will certainly do this. I really like my machine, but I am having a hard time getting used to the radius on the chute. Where we live, I am in a pie shaped lot, and I can't seem to get the snow to exactly where I want to, resulting in more passes.My old blower could fit the snow anywhere I needed to. This is a better machine, so if I can fix this radius problem, I will have a winner on my hands. 



Speaking of winners....sadly we are not in the Grey Cup this year....we lost to Winnipeg yesterday. Very disappointed. I will be cheering for Hamilton!:sad2::surprise::smile2::wink2: Thanks so much for everybody's help!:grin:


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

BazookaJoe said:


> Yes, the chute will indeed strike the support after the the stop-dogs are completely removed. I had added in post #4 of this thread, to add rubber bumpers.
> 
> "I should also add that without the "dogs", the chute will now bump against the vertical steel support. I added a small rubber pad to silence the "bang" and to prevent the chute's paint from chipping."



I did the mod it does not strike the support it works perfect
nobody said to completely remove the dogs
TRIM THE DOGS


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Cutter said:


> Thanks Town....your post totally cleared this up for me.I did have some questions about trimming or cutting of gears, but you have made it clear as day. Once my knee decides to behave, I will certainly do this. I really like my machine, but I am having a hard time getting used to the radius on the chute. Where we live, I am in a pie shaped lot, and I can't seem to get the snow to exactly where I want to, resulting in more passes.My old blower could fit the snow anywhere I needed to. This is a better machine, so if I can fix this radius problem, I will have a winner on my hands.
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of winners....sadly we are not in the Grey Cup this year....we lost to Winnipeg yesterday. Very disappointed. I will be cheering for Hamilton!:sad2::surprise::smile2::wink2: Thanks so much for everybody's help!:grin:


Ernt

cutter did you read town said he has a different setup then yours and it won't wotk for your setup
if you don't trim the dogs you get no increase you don't need extra teeth at all


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

oneacer said:


> Boy, after all this discussion, I sure am glad I have the older Ariens, never had a chute issue. … [/QUOTE
> 
> 
> Who said there was and issue?
> ...


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

1132le said:


> I did the mod it does not strike the support it works perfect
> nobody said to completely remove the dogs
> TRIM THE DOGS


*I* did say to remove the stops AND to add some little rubber bumpers to dampen the contact. This maximizes the additional degrees of chute rotation. If this approach works for ppl, then follow my lead. If not, then Dremel away at it until you find the sweet spot of how much to trim the stops before your chute makes contact. Either way works, and remember folks, it's just a snowblower. Really, 1132e, it's just a snowblower.


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

1132le said:


> Ernt
> 
> cutter did you read town said he has a different setup then yours and it won't wotk for your setup
> if you don't trim the dogs you get no increase you don't need extra teeth at all



Yes I did 1132le.....however my knee still looks like a soccer ball, and I await surgery ( sooner the better), but right now I couldn't even imagine bending down that far. I am really interested in trying what all of you speak of, it just might have to wait a bit. Maybe next week. I have torn something inside my knee, and waiting for Medical Services here in Saskatchewan is like waiting like a tree to petrify. It's free medical here, but tie the "hurry up and wait" kind.:sad2: But,I will certainly trim the dogs. Thanks everyone, for the kind concern to help.:grin:


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

BazookaJoe said:


> *I* did say to remove the stops AND to add some little rubber bumpers to dampen the contact. This maximizes the additional degrees of chute rotation. If this approach works for ppl, then follow my lead. If not, then Dremel away at it until you find the sweet spot of how much to trim the stops before your chute makes contact. Either way works, and remember folks, it's just a snowblower. Really, 1132e, it's just a snowblower.



Hey BazookaJoe...yes you're right, just a snowblower. But I would be totally willing to put rubber pads on , if I can get that kind of radius that worked for you.... I would be dancing in the streets with my "new to me" improved Ariens!!:kiss::grin::wink2:


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