# Craftsman 5-23 Track drive gears part



## jtaxel (Sep 5, 2017)

I have a Craftsman 5-23 Track drive Runs exellent!! everything is good on it except it wont move fwd or backward,
i tore it down, and the large sproket gear is shot, anyone know where to get one of these??


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

The craftsman 5/23 is pretty common along with a few varients with the same tractor with and without tracks as the tractor unit is the same with wheels or tracks (you can convert it from one to the other if you have the parts, Ebay would be the best bet as craftsman has discontinued parts for these. I have a 5/23 wheeled model im rebuilding myself.


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## jtaxel (Sep 5, 2017)

Snowblower Drive Gear, 48-tooth | Part Number 6215 | Sears PartsDirect

thats the gear, 48tooth. wow, even on ebay its 80 bucks!!

I got this snowblower free, so. 80 bucks to fix it isnt too bad.

yea gonna keep this as is, just do some minor work and a few parts, new belts..


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Keep an eye on CL for a parts machine, I got my 5/23 for $30 LOL but using it as a project machine to have a little fun trying mods and such or maybe just keep it as a lender machine for those having their blower repaired.


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## jtaxel (Sep 5, 2017)

ok , so what about this guy, a 3 jaw puller wont pull this off, so what do ya use to pull this off?

p.s, yes the axle is beat up this is the way i got it so, gonna have to shave down the tip , its a but mushed from someone beating the **** out of it.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Don't pay $80 for that sprocket... wait for a freebie or a $50 machine on craigslist to show up

If that sprocket is chewed up it's possibly because the TRACs are horribly seized.
You should be able to push and pull the machine with engine off without getting a hernia.

From your last picture.. it seems you are already doing the TRAC dismantle.

You've probably seen my thread on stripping down and adding zerks and lubing those tracks.
If not it's here.. keep scrolling until you see the bit about the TRAC rebuild
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...n-trac-1987-5-23-536884810-5-5hp-honda-c.html

It's a long painful process to get the plastic wheels off their shafts if they are totally rusted up... but I managed it eventually.
Zerks and marine grease are a must once you go that far. All described in that thread.

If you break one of the plastic wheels trying to get it off... you don't want to be $80 out of pocket for that sprocket.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

jtaxel said:


> ok , so what about this guy, a 3 jaw puller wont pull this off, so what do ya use to pull this off?...


All I can suggest are the usual rust-weld answers.
Acetic acid (vinegar) to try to dissolve the rust. Stronger acids if you know what you are getting yourself into.
Other rust-eater products supposedly designed to dissolve rust.. I tried Evapo-rust but was not too impressed.
The 4 Best Liquid Rust Removers, Tested
Then the old standards... heat torch, PB Blaster etc.


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## jtaxel (Sep 5, 2017)

im just wondering since a 3 jaw wont be able to grab anywhere from what i see, what tool would ya suggest to pull it off. 
i have torches, etc also to heat. I havent tried to pull them off yet, still trying to figure what tool to get. 

and on the rust subject, i tried a bunch of different liquids, on getting the CHAINS, to loosen up and wire wheeled them etc, they still are pretty tight But thats not too bad, still working with that,


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

jtaxel said:


> im just wondering since a 3 jaw wont be able to grab anywhere from what i see, what tool would ya suggest to pull it off. ....


I can't help you with a pulling tool. That drive sprocket just slid off for me once the bolt was removed that goes through the shaft.
Obviously I'd try to rotate it on the shaft to break the rust in addition to trying to pull it and push it. 
Heat and PB Blaster with a combination of rotation and tapping forwards and backwards to loosen it on the shaft is all that springs to mind.

It's a fairly strong piece so it can take a little bit of rough treatment.
The bolt hole gives a nice path for PB Blaster to penetrate down to the shaft.

This google search may find some tricks
https://www.google.com/search?q=rem...hJTWAhVrrVQKHXHrCAgQ_AUICygC&biw=1920&bih=926
Or maybe this
https://www.google.com/search?biw=1...1.7.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.0.0.F5Oouh1OC3w


I'm not sure if you could rig a stronger version of this...


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## jtaxel (Sep 5, 2017)

LoL yep seen that video already, dont think that wood will hold up. maybe it will, but yea took a couple pipe wrenches, one on sproket, and one on the drive shaft, wont turn lol so need some heat first sprayed with blaster last night.

But thanks i do understand what i should do then. Yea the holes are nice too,,, place bolts through with nuts on the end also seems like it would be nice for a DIY puller also.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

jtaxel said:


> LoL yep seen that video already, dont think that wood will hold up. maybe it will, but yea took a couple pipe wrenches, one on sproket, and one on the drive shaft, wont turn lol so need some heat first sprayed with blaster last night.
> But thanks i do understand what i should do then. Yea the holes are nice too,,, place bolts through with nuts on the end also seems like it would be nice for a DIY puller also.


Rust! Possibly the number one frustration for fixing up older blowers that have been neglected.
That's why I suggested that the auger gearbox is often not worth the effort if ever the brass gear strips.
Trying to dismantle things down to a point where you can get to that gear often involves lots of rust and breaking even more parts along the way as you try to get in there.

How are those plastic wheels looking? Did they slide off their shafts or are you struggling like I was?
The rust is often stronger than the plastic.. so be careful with those.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

stuart80112 said:


> Rust! Possibly the number one frustration for fixing up older blowers that have been neglected.
> That's why I suggested that the auger gearbox is often not worth the effort if ever the brass gear strips.
> Trying to dismantle things down to a point where you can get to that gear often involves lots of rust and breaking even more parts along the way as you try to get in there.


If it was easy everyone would do it :devil: It's the challenge that makes it fun (for me at least).


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> If it was easy everyone would do it :devil: It's the challenge that makes it fun (for me at least).


Ah yes... the fun challenge! 
I would do it exactly *once *as a learning experience.. but next time I'd look for a matching $50 machine on craigslist with a thrown connecting rod and just swap out the whole front auger bucket section.
Then again.. I never really understood jigsaws... wouldn't it be easier if they just didn't cut the picture up into 2000 pieces in the first place ;-)


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## jtaxel (Sep 5, 2017)

Yes the plastic wheels slid off just fine, Not much effort, yea the chains are shot. Need new ones, they arent rusty not more lol but still very stiff.
the other gears down under seem to be fine, not really chewed up. Im doing this more for the fun and learning experience, im not in a rush to get rid of it Also got a couple chain saws free from that and a old person power wheel chair. .. oh and a rusted out grill lol.

yea just got to get these side axle gears pulled off. clean it up. New chains, axle gear, and theres a smaller gear in there i wanna replace while in at it.
otherwise good little machine, excellent engine.

but yea pipe wrenches wont turn the end axle gears.. lol 1 on the axle 1 on the gear. so yea rusted on there.. some strong stuff to break them loose.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Did the sprocket on the OTHER side come off cleanly?
If so, you might be able to leave that rusted one on there and slide the whole shaft out taking the sprocket with it.
Once you unbolt the broken main drive sprocket/cog/gear inside the the transmission, that shaft should slide through the sleeve bearings cleanly.
If you can do that, you'll be in a better shape to put the shaft into a vice and rest that rusted sprocket on the jaws of the vice and then use heat PB Blaster and a mallet to get some clean hits.
$0.02

Great news on the plastic wheels coming off cleanly.


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## jtaxel (Sep 5, 2017)

no both side axle sprockets are rusted to the axle. i sprayed them with pb and will let them sit, i have the snowblower in my basement, cant really put it on the table to get to the vice, if i can at least get the pipe wrenches to break them loose at least would help. the 48T sprocket in the transmission, is loose, well not rusted on the axle. just take the bolt out, and it will slide. Yea was hoping at least 1 of them was lose so i could , yea , slide the axle out so i can use the vice on it.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

BTW.. The other smaller gear that your damaged drive gear runs against.... I have one on a scrap transmission... you can have it for the price of postage if that helps.
Also, if you totally fail getting those sprockets off... I can send you a replacement shaft too... that will cost more to mail but you can have it. 
That way you can just saw those darn things off and punch out the bit of shaft that's left in the middle. 
We'd need to make sure the parts match *before *you get out the hacksaw or the grinder.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Just found a hint for freeing up those chains to save you a few dollars. It was a reply to one of my Bobcat questions.
_chains 
i use motor cycle cold weather oil year round trick is a oil that can soak into and around the flats into the bushing,and stay there. a few times on rusted chains i soaked them in a 50/50 mix of kerosene and atf for a day worked then free, then kept up with mc chain lube
_I'm assuming ATF is Automatic Transmission Fluid.

I also expect that my gallon of EvapoRust would work well too on chains. I didn't like EvapoRust when trying to free up parts like your sprockets that are rusted to a shaft.. but it might have an easier time freeing up your chains because you can soak them in a tub and really get it to penetrate the chain links.


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## jtaxel (Sep 5, 2017)

stuart80112 said:


> BTW.. The other smaller gear that your damaged drive gear runs against.... I have one on a scrap transmission... you can have it for the price of postage if that helps.
> Also, if you totally fail getting those sprockets off... I can send you a replacement shaft too... that will cost more to mail but you can have it.
> That way you can just saw those darn things off and punch out the bit of shaft that's left in the middle.
> We'd need to make sure the parts match *before *you get out the hacksaw or the grinder.




thanks! yea PM me, 

Those 2 axle sprockets are still on! ive heated the **** out of em banged on em a bit, threw a ton of harsh liquid to free up the **** rust. NOTTA! lol

I may just buy a couple wheels and convert it too. 
thinking about that also.

so if anyone has done a conversion, let me know what any supplies will be needed.




> Just found a hint for freeing up those chains to save you a few dollars. It was a reply to one of my Bobcat questions.
> chains
> i use motor cycle cold weather oil year round trick is a oil that can soak into and around the flats into the bushing,and stay there. a few times on rusted chains i soaked them in a 50/50 mix of kerosene and atf for a day worked then free, then kept up with mc chain lube
> I'm assuming ATF is Automatic Transmission Fluid.
> ...


SOunds good, yea not too expensive, ive tried alot on those also!


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

So it sounds like you potentially want or need the following
1) large drive sprocket (yours is certainly damaged) You priced it new at $80 (cheaper in the link below)
2) smaller drive sprocket (you mentioned yours is possibly damaged)
3) Drive shaft (in case you need to cut off the sprockets)
4) Wheels (because you are thinking about switching out the TRAC)

That's going to get expensive real fast.
I still think your best bet is to look for a $50 donor craigslist machine where you'll get all the above parts (and more). 
You'll have 2 auger buckets, 2 transmissions and 2 engines to work with.. you only need one of each. You'll get the wheels too.
Keep what you don't use for spares.

Here's one local to me right now for $50. These old Craftsmen show up all the time round here... some for $50 and some for free if you are fast enough.
Where are you located? 
https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/d/craftsman-snowblower-5-23/6262210770.html

As for the wheels versus TRACs...
The exploded diagrams are here for a similar machine: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...=modelSearch&q=536886531&searchTerm=536886531
or here: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-536886531-snowthrower-parts-c-158286_160975_161055.html
Scroll those images to the left or right until you see wheel assembly. Again.. all the parts will be on the donor machine. $50 buys it all.

One last thought about pulling off those sprockets. I saw a thread yesterday (I've lost it again sorry) that suggests one of these pullers.
He said you can sometimes borrow them or rent them from local repair shops too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...s/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

stuart80112 said:


> ....I still think your best bet is to look for a $50 donor craigslist machine ....Here's one local to me right now for $50.


I couldn't resist.. I just picked it up for *$20*. I think he would have given it away just to clear space in the garage.
He said he hadn't started it in 4 years. Did a quick carburetor clean and it fires right up. Everything works (speeds & augers). Only surface rust. 

Hope you find one like it.


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