# Engine swap



## RocketPower (Dec 28, 2012)

Hello !

Newbi here, although not new to Ariens blowers. I have a '71 Ariens that I have had since my dad bought it new. Its a great machine, and I want to continue to use it - its the only machine I have ever used - but it developed a problem and I dont have time to track it down. While clearing the driveway the other day the engine lost power and began to backfire and pop back through the carb and eventually stalled. Now it wont run. I'm figuring it is probably something to do with the intake valve, but I just dont have the time to get after it.

Does anyone know of a direct bolt on replacement engine ? I tried the search feature but didnt see a specific engine the would bolt in place of the H70 Tecumseh thats on there.

Thanks for the help


----------



## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

First off welcome to the site. There are lot's of engines you can put on your 71 the bad news is all the new engines you have to cut the studs out that hold the engine to the tractor and put longer bolts in. You might also have to relocate the chute control handle. The good news is it well worth it... I put a 9.5 brigg's intek on my 69 ariens and the base of the engine was biger so i had to drill a new set of holes. Smaller engines like 208 cc have the same mounting holes. Measure your you crank shaft , that way you can keep your pulley. A good source for engines is small engine warehouse or nothern tool. Another option is to look for an old engine 6 or 7 hp on craigs list that has the thin base that would be just a bolt on.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

See this thread for some options:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...um/1290-repower-options-john-deere-526-a.html

Also, I would use a sledge hammer to knock the studs out. It doesn't take much effort so don't kill it. I just held a 5 pound sledge above the studs on mine (handle straight up) and basically dropped it. The old studs pop right out and you don't have to worry about cutting or drilling.


----------



## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

Not sure which one you have but my 77 924 series had studs for the 7hp and also holes for a bigger engine. I knocked 2 of the studs out as previously described and a 10HP HM100 bolted right on. Same crank diameter and the belt guard and cover worked perfect.


----------



## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

I am also using the belt cover from my 5hp / pulley on my 9.5 hp intek with no mods.


----------



## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

I am all for swapping out engines if needed but how about just checking the points and condenser first? points would only be about an hour or two to change them out, and cheap. any idea when they were done last?

Or a simple compression test, if the valve is bent or sticking open you wont have any compression.


----------



## RocketPower (Dec 28, 2012)

Funny thing about the points - I dont know that they have _ever_ been changed ! It was kinda strange for the engine to be running fine for about 30 minutes and then start to pop and backfire a lot. Most of it coming through the carb. If I can find some time I'm gonna check the points. 

I think it is something to do with timing. I can feel compression when I pull the starter, so maybe its not an intake valve. I would like to keep it as original as I can.


----------



## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Could be the coil too.


----------



## RocketPower (Dec 28, 2012)

Well I took the path of least resistance and went ahead and swapped out the Tecumseh for a Predator 212. I really need to have the machine running and ready to go. 

It went pretty smooth, I absolutely hated knocking out the mounting studs. I do want to put it all back to original someday. But for $95.00 you cant beat it.

I'm thinking of using some body shims to change the angle on the chute crank. Right now I have it off and am using a pair of welding vice grips to lock the chute in position. 

Thanks for the help


----------



## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Great to hear your up and running . It would be a good idea to remove the air cleaner. Let us know how you like it.


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Crank*



RocketPower said:


> I'm thinking of using some body shims to change the angle on the chute crank. Right now I have it off and am using a pair of welding vice grips to lock the chute in position.
> 
> Thanks for the help


One thing many people do is cut the shaft for the chute, add another mount to the chassis and put a U_Joint in the shaft so it will pass under the engine cylinder.

This setup is OEM and another brand but it gives an idea of what some people have duplicated in engine swapping situations


----------



## RocketPower (Dec 28, 2012)

69ariens said:


> Great to hear your up and running . It would be a good idea to remove the air cleaner. Let us know how you like it.


 
Why remove the air cleaner ?


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Aircleaners*



RocketPower said:


> Why remove the air cleaner ?


Most (if not all) snowblower engines don't have an aircleaner. No dust and dirt blowing around but it could freeze up with blowing snow or ice.


----------



## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

I am running my Predator 212cc with the stock air cleaner foam in it and It runs great. I posted a video of it in action. I do not miss the Tecumseh at all. I like being able to start the engine with 1 to 2 pulls on the recoil and it throws snow way farther than the Tecumseh ever did.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I have a Predator and also at one time had one of the older Greyhounds and have ran both with the air filters still in them. I figured if I ever have a problem I will worry about removing them then, but never did.


----------



## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

You need to be careful as those engines are jetted very lean. Removing the air filter could cause a lean running condition and surging or loss of some power. Just saying


----------



## RocketPower (Dec 28, 2012)

Well we finally had some serious snow ! I have to say I like the new engine. It started right up - as you would expect - and ran smooth the whole time I used it ( about 4hrs ).

My observations are :

It definately threw the snow farther. Granted it was light snow, but really sent it flying LOL.

Its much more fuel efficient. I'm not sure how large the tank is, but it sure looks smaller than the old one. One tank lasted more than 3 hrs.

I had to throttle back a little as the blower was moving too fast for me. I have always used 1st gear, but even in first, it seemed to be moving faster than I remember.

The new engine is much quieter than the old one too. 

All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with the swap and would recomend it.


----------



## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Yes, The Predator 212cc is much quieter than the Tecumseh and way more powerful. It runs much smoother and really cuts through the snow like it almost not even there. The only problem I have had is its thrown the belt once for the drive today. It didn't do it when it was moving but when I let the handle snap up to stop it and when I pressed down on the handle again it didn't move. I brought it inside the garage and took the belly pan off and seen that the belt came off the lower pulley. I loosened the tensioner and just put it on again and re-tightened the belt tensioner and it works again. I tried releasing it slowly and the belt seems to stay on so I think I will do that from now on. I really don't like spending another 5 to 10 minutes putting the belt on again. I was just cleaning up my driveway for the 3rd time today. It finally quit snowing and I hope that the snowplow doesn't come through tonight and push up lots of snow in front of my driveway again.


----------



## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

woodtick007 said:


> You need to be careful as those engines are jetted very lean. Removing the air filter could cause a lean running condition and surging or loss of some power. Just saying


 I ended up enlarging the main jet on my Predator 212 cc as well as the idle jet with thread and polishing compound. It runs awesome now and before it would surge a bit when the temperature was below 30 degrees unless I put the choke on part way then it would smooth out. Real easy fix to hog out a main jet with super floss and polishing compound and shooting it clean with carburetor cleaner.


----------



## MTD1014 (Feb 17, 2013)

Shryp said:


> I have a Predator and also at one time had one of the older Greyhounds and have ran both with the air filters still in them. I figured if I ever have a problem I will worry about removing them then, but never did.


Were you happy with both engines? were they the same hp and did you feel one ran stronger than the other? I see the Predator is 212cc so its a bit larger than the Greyhound. Please share. Thank You.


----------



## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

I never had the Greyhound engine but I am happy with the Predator. Very quiet and powerful compared to the Tecumseh 5hp it replaced. Runs so much better than the Tecumseh even when the Tecumseh was new.


----------



## Snowjob (Feb 18, 2013)

RocketPower said:


> Well I took the path of least resistance and went ahead and swapped out the Tecumseh for a Predator 212....





GustoGuy said:


> I am running my Predator 212cc.... I like being able to start the engine with 1 to 2 pulls on the recoil....


Will the Predator engines accept an AC Electric starter..??
Being an "Olde Tymer", I have a problem pulling a recoil starter.

Thanks....


----------



## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

Snowjob said:


> Will the Predator engines accept an AC Electric starter..??
> Being an "Olde Tymer", I have a problem pulling a recoil starter.
> 
> Thanks....


Not that I know of......BUT, and here is the big but. You can get one with a battery operated starter and use a small motorcycle battery to crank it over.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

MTD1014 said:


> Were you happy with both engines? were they the same hp and did you feel one ran stronger than the other? I see the Predator is 212cc so its a bit larger than the Greyhound. Please share. Thank You.


I was happy with both. No problems from either.


----------



## Snowjob (Feb 18, 2013)

woodtick007 said:


> ....You can get one with a battery operated starter and use a small motorcycle battery to crank it over.


Thanks, woodtick....That would work for me. I have a generator with a 12-volt DC starter. I use my car to start it with a set of jumper cables. The same would work with a DC starter for the blower engine and is probably a better idea in case the house power goes out......again.

Thanks.....
.


----------



## Snowjob (Feb 18, 2013)

To '*RocketPower*' and '*GustoGuy*'.....

When you installed your Predator 212 engines, did you hook up the throttle cable from your blower...??
Or do you just use the control levers built into the engine..??

Thanks.....Richie >>
.


----------



## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

I have no throttle control on my snowblower. The engine has a throttle built in to it and I just use that. Even the Tecumseh had the throttle on the engine. I rigged a throttle up for my mini bike however. It used the stock twist throttle


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

If an engine has a throttle on it then it's usually easier to use that than to rework it to use a handlebar control. I've swapped out comparable engines and reworked throttle controls before. It can be alot of work for little gain. Keeping it simple is usually the best solution.


----------

