# 1964 Ariens restoration with Predator 212



## ceng41 (Feb 24, 2013)

At the finishing stage of restoring 1964 Ariens 10ML60D. Original Tec engine was shot, got a bent piston ring rod, and bad crank shaft. put in a HF Predator 212, but the chute rod shaft is hitting the engine. The rotating teeth is not hitting the spocket. Any suggestions please?


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Put a spacer under the engine to raise it. There is also some adjustment by loosening the 2 bolts that hold the crank assy to the chassis, and try a different angle. You can also lightly tap the sheet metal on the engine to gain some clearance. There's 3 suggestions.


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## ceng41 (Feb 24, 2013)

pictures attached.


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## ceng41 (Feb 24, 2013)

Jackmels said:


> Put a spacer under the engine to raise it. There is also some adjustment by loosening the 2 bolts that hold the crank assy to the chassis, and try a different angle. You can also lightly tap the sheet metal on the engine to gain some clearance. There's 3 suggestions.


Thanks for the quick reply, i was going to remove the sheet metal, maybe some kind of heat shield under the valve. But will try your idea to raise the engine up to gain some clearance.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Have you read through the repowering forum? Lotsa good info and ideas there.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I had to add a second u-joint and went over the top of the engine on my 924038 going from a Tec 7hp to LCT OHV 291cc. Mine had a short stub directly at the chute gear, then a relatively short straight rod to one u-joint, then up the handle. I put a second u-joint on the short stub, then the straight rod, then another u-joint to get back to the handle bars. The new engine carb covering caused too much angle to get back to the handle bars with only one u-joint. Our local ace hardware had metal rods for sale that could be drilled to accept the pins that hold the u-joints or the sleeve commonly found on Ariens. I know yours is different for the crank gear, but I think the diameter of the rods is the same


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Why is that sprocket so far from the chute? Swapping engines didn't do that, like others said, I persuaded the tin a bit and lowered the chute control mount on the handle. If that doesn't work for you two universal joints could make almost anything work. Good luck


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## ceng41 (Feb 24, 2013)

Here is a better picture of the chute rod situation. I will definitely check out the "repowering" fourm, that is if i can find the forum. Otherwise, i will remove the tin shield, i think it will give me enough clearance to raise the bracket up. 

Thanks for all the suggestions.


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## ceng41 (Feb 24, 2013)

Yeah! Found the re-power forum under Snowblower repair and maintenance forum. There are couple posts showed the exact challenge that I am facing and their solutions. One is drill new holes to tilt the bracket up at an angle.

Sincere thanks to JACKMELS and HJMAES suggestions.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

ceng41 said:


> Here is a better picture of the chute rod situation. I will definitely check out the "repowering" fourm, that is if i can find the forum. Otherwise, i will remove the tin shield, i think it will give me enough clearance to raise the bracket up.
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions.


Can you weld? IF so, make the rod that has the sprocket and the flex joint longer, so that it reaches the chute base and the other end is close to the base of the handle bar and you can use the flex joint to bring the remaining part of the chute rotating handle. You could bring the handle up to make it more convenient (sort of like this Yamaha)


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## ceng41 (Feb 24, 2013)

Sorry, don't know how to weld.


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## ceng41 (Feb 24, 2013)

Sorry, don't know how to weld.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

If that's a need, figure out what you need and take it to a machine shop to have it welded up for you. Should not be expensive to do.


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