# Having Trouble Removing Carburetor from Snowblower



## Jack28 (Jan 3, 2017)

Hello. I'm trying to remove a carburetor from a Toro Power Clear 418 snowblower.

First, I removed the float-bowl bolt and the float bowl. The bolt and the bowl had some dirt and varnish on them. I soaked them in rubbing alcohol, and got rid of just about all of the dirt and varnish.

Now, I'm trying to remove the rest of the carburetor, and I'm having some problems.



For instructions, I've been using the following youtube video:






Unfortunately, it seems that this video is a fraud. This video makes the removal of a carburetor from a Toro snowblower look very easy. But, in reality, this removal process has been very difficult.

According to 1:15 - 1:36 in the above video, we have to 1) move the spring clamps away from the carburetor and 2) remove the primer tube and the fuel-line tube from the carburetor. The video implies that steps 1 and 2 are very easy. 

Well, moving the spring clamps was a huge pain in the ass and very difficult, even though I used both a set of tweezers and my bare hands. And it was impossible to remove the primer tube and the fuel-line tube. I pulled on the tubes, and they stretched, but they never came off. They are stuck on the carburetor. (Please see the attached photos.)

From 1:36 to 1:46, the video shows that we have to remove the spring and the throttle linkage from the top of the carburetor. The video makes the removal of these two things look very easy. Because the spring is thin and bendable, I was able to remove the spring. However, the throttle linkage is thick and not bendable. Therefore, I was unable to remove the throttle linkage, even though I used a set of tweezers. (Please see the attached photo.)



So, how do I remove the rest of the carburetor? How do I remove the primer tube and the fuel-line tube? How do I remove the throttle linkage?

Thank you for any advice.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

On the video, they are working on a new unit, so the hoses are not stuck. 
What I'd do on the hoses is to use some soft pliers to spin the hoses on the tubes, then pry the hoses with a flat screwdriver as you turn the hose, it should take them right off.
Once you have the hoses off just slide the carburetor as far out as it comes then disconnect the linkage (you may have to bend the linkage but just a lil bit). Good luck.....


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

If y


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## Jack28 (Jan 3, 2017)

jtclays said:


> If you're still having trouble after doing what YSHSfan suggested you can put both mounting nuts on one stud at a time and use the back one to remove the studs from the block. That'll give you more room to wiggle the carb loose of the fuel/primer lines and then you can tilt it out of the z-bend.
> Other option is to cut the lines and replace them if they are indeed hard/brittle. Also your likely problem is the brass pilot jet on the top right of the carb in this picture needs to be removed and cleaned run a small wire through the holes.
> I would also suggest using carb cleaner instead of rubbing alcohol.


Can I 1) use a flat screwdriver to remove the jet, 2) clean the jet, and 3) use a flat screwdriver to reattach the jet, without actually removing the carburetor?

Also, when you say to use carb cleaner, do you mean sea foam? I think someone said that, for cleaning purposes, rubbing alcohol is better than sea foam, because rubbing alcohol evaporates better. 

And, when you say, "put both mounting nuts on one stud at a time and use the back one to remove the studs from the block", what do you mean by that? Where are the mounting nuts and the studs relative to my carb? Can you show me some kind of diagram?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Jack28 said:


> Can I 1) use a flat screwdriver to remove the jet, 2) clean the jet, and 3) use a flat screwdriver to reattach the jet, without actually removing the carburetor?
> 
> Also, when you say to use carb cleaner, do you mean sea foam? I think someone said that, for cleaning purposes, rubbing alcohol is better than sea foam, because rubbing alcohol evaporates better.
> 
> And, when you say, "put both mounting nuts on one stud at a time and use the back one to remove the studs from the block", what do you mean by that? Where are the mounting nuts and the studs relative to my carb? Can you show me some kind of diagram?


Just the canned spray carb cleaner, which is sold under many different brand names. sea foam is a gas additive for fuel it is not for cleaning icky old carbs up.k:k:k:k:k:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Jack28 said:


> Can I
> 1) use a flat screwdriver to remove the jet,
> 2) clean the jet, and
> 3) use a flat screwdriver to reattach the jet,
> without actually removing the carburetor?


Yes, you likely can but being this far I'd remove the carburetor.
When using a screwdriver to remove/reinstall the jet use one that fits the best on the slot and make sure it does not slip.



Jack28 said:


> Also, when you say to use carb cleaner, do you mean sea foam? I think someone said that, for cleaning purposes, rubbing alcohol is better than sea foam, because rubbing alcohol evaporates better.


As PS suggested buy a can of carb cleaner for it....



Jack28 said:


> And, when you say, "put both mounting nuts on one stud at a time and use the back one to remove the studs from the block", what do you mean by that? Where are the mounting nuts and the studs relative to my carb? Can you show me some kind of diagram?


Check the following video....


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

these videos almost always make it look easy because they are using new clean machines.

like already mentioned you may not have to remove carb to clean this jet but to learn and do a thorough job since you are almost there you might as well.

do you see how that linkage attaches? i had problems as well until I watched 5 other videos. one guy took the time to show how remove. DO NOT BEND. just tilt the carb and it should slide right out.

easy peasy quick and easy.

i learned another valuable trick here. you already took some pics so that will help in the reinstall. It's amazing that you think you'll remember how it goes together but sometimes you miss something important. the pictures help.

excellent OP btw. i wish i knew how to do that. posting pics with the arrows and words to show what i am talking about.


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## Jack28 (Jan 3, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> excellent OP btw. i wish i knew how to do that. posting pics with the arrows and words to show what i am talking about.



Open your photo in Microsoft Paint, which should be included in all computers running a Windows operating system.

In Microsoft Paint, you can draw lines to form arrows, and you can write words.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Jack28 said:


> Open your photo in Microsoft Paint, which should be included in all computers running a Windows operating system.
> 
> In Microsoft Paint, you can draw lines to form arrows, and you can write words.


thanks. I don't have windows. mines a chromebook but i'll check it . must have a similar function.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

If it w


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Something to consider:
https://www.amazon.com/120-4427-Toro-Snowthrower-Carburetor-119-1977/dp/B00HHFTWAU


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Jack, Any progress on getting that carb off?


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## Jack28 (Jan 3, 2017)

jtclays said:


> if the machine is on it's wheels and the float isn't hanging down on it's hinge pin from the carb, it's likely stuck in the seat. If so, your not going to get any fuel.
> 
> Let us see a pic, side view of carb with the machine on it's wheels.


With the machine on its wheels, I examined and touched the float. The float does seem to be hanging down on the hinge pin. Please see the attached photos.


Now, as for removing the carb:

Unfortunately, I do not have any soft pliers with which to spin the tubes. I have "hard" pliers only. I tried to spin the tubes with my hand, but I pretty much got nowhere. 

I do have two small flat screwdrivers. But, if I use these screwdrivers to try to pry the tubes off the carb, I would have to do so without spinning the tubes. I am concerned that the prying attempt could damage the tubes.


I did watch the video about the mounting nuts and the studs. However, that process seems risky and complicated, and I want to avoid that process if I can.


I do have at least two flat screwdrivers that are big enough to fit the brass pilot jet. So, I'm thinking that first I should try to remove the jet without removing the carb. If that fails, I could use a small flat screwdriver to pry the tubes off the carb.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

That's how it should be, the float. You should be able to tip it up and let it drop, it should move freely. I don't know what to tell you on the lines other than they do come off. Maybe for ease of removal, take the primer lines more left side clamp off and spin the plastic housing to break it loose. Get the housing out of the way. Take the clamp off the fuel inlet line at the fuel filter and twist the filter while pulling the line. They will come off, it does not have to be a delicate process. If you bugger up the lines, just replace them. They are very cheap to replace and likely should be. I don't even consider them when working on blowers. I just cut them off, remove carb and replace. Then I'm certain I'm putting a clean carb back in with clean lines.
Flush the tank also, let it dry in the sun. Eliminates any doubt your newly cleaned carb has old line crap drizzling into it. We're not setting fuel pressure on the space shuttle here:grin:


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## Jack28 (Jan 3, 2017)

Well, I used a flat screwdriver to remove the pilot jet. 

The jet was very clean. There were three holes on the sides of the jet, and I looked through these holes. When I looked through one side hole, I could see another side hole. So, it seems that the holes on the sides are not clogged up. Also, there was a hole on the bottom of the jet. (Please see the attached images.)

So, should I use a wire through the side holes? Should I use a wire through the hole on the bottom? Should I use a carb cleaner on the jet?


Also, I have attached photos of the hole on the carb where the pilot jet was. I labeled this hole the "pilot-jet area". 


There is also a photo of the inside of the carb, as the inside appeared after the removal of the jet.


Next, I decided that I would try, once again, to remove the carb from the snowblower. Using a small flat screwdriver, I was able to successfully remove the primer tube and the fuel-line tube from the carb. 

On the inside of the carb cover, there was some weird white stuff. (Please see the attached image.) I went ahead and removed that stuff. Could this stuff have caused my snowblower to not start?

Unfortunately, I was still unable to separate the throttle linkage from the carb. I slid the carb out as far as possible, but I could not remove the carb. I then slid the carb out as far as possible AND tilted the carb to the right (please see the attached photo), but I could not remove the carb. I have also attached a photo of the carb NOT slid out.

orangputeh said that he saw 5 videos describing how to separate the throttle linkage from the carb. If orangputeh can post the links to those videos, I would appreciate that.  


If the pilot jet is not the problem, is it possible that the problem is the needle and/or the main jet?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Jack28,

If you watch the video you first posted a few more times you'll notice that the linkage needs a bit of tension (looks like bending it but I think it'll just spring back), I'd grab some needle nose pliers and do exactly like the video shows and get the carburetor off for entire cleaning and close inspection. if there is more than one hole were the throttle linkage can be attached mark the hole where it goes (magic marker will work) to avoid confusions later.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Jack,


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

OP. JTClays has the right advice. I can't find the best video on removing carb but the stud has to be removed before you can tilt the carb enough to get the linkage to slip out. ( in your case )

i would def. replace fuel lines since you have come this far. i also bought a welders tip cleaning wire set from amazon that works well on cleaning out those jet holes and carb cleaner. they work better than just trying to find a wire. I start with a small wire and work my way up until I feel a little resistance. you don't want to enlarge the hole.

after spraying with carb cleaner, i bought a 6 pack pack of compressed air that people use on their computer keyboards from costco since i don't have an air compressor , to blow out and dry the carb cleaner.


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## Jack28 (Jan 3, 2017)

Well, I managed to remove the throttle linkage from the carb. 

I did not have any needle-nose pliers. Instead, I used some regular, thicker pliers. I removed the throttle linkage in a way that was similar to, but not the same as, the way depicted in the carb-removal video that I posted.

I did try the nut-and-stud method, but that method did not work for me at all. I got nowhere.


Anyway, I posted 5 photos of the carb. At the bottom of the carb, there is a hole. This hole may be a jet through which fuel travels. This hole appears to be clogged up. Could this clogged-up hole be the reason why my snowblower did not start? This hole is labelled in one of my photos.

Also, I posted 2 photos of the gasket located between the carb and the snowblower body.

And, I posted a photo of the area on the snowblower body where the carb and the gasket had been. This area is labelled the "carb-and-gasket" area.


So, what do I do now?

1) Do I clean up the clogged-up hole at the bottom of the carb?

2) Do I open up the carb and check out the needle and the main jet?

3) Do I take the carb to Home Depot and have someone over there check the carb out?

4) Do I clean the whole carb with Carb Cleaner?

5) Do I just buy a new carb?


Some posters have suggested that I replace the fuel lines and the fuel filters. Since December 2016, I have drained the snowblower of fuel at least 2 times. I loosened the drain bolt, and the fuel came right out. The fuel had no problems flowing from the fuel tank, into the carb, and out of the drain bolt. So, it seems that the fuel lines and filters are working properly.

Do you guys want me to replace the fuel lines and filters because they are old? 

Should I replace them with the same fuel lines and filters, like the following:

https://www.powerequipmentwarehouse.com/fuel-line-kit-2

Or should I replace them with something more advanced?


I have performed grueling labor just to get this far. I don't want to perform the labor to replace the fuel lines and filters, unless I REALLY have to.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I save the wire ties from Bread Bags to clean carb holes. Hit it with a lighter, and the paper burns off leaving a clean wire.


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## Jack28 (Jan 3, 2017)

Jackmels said:


> I save the wire ties from Bread Bags to clean carb holes. Hit it with a lighter, and the paper burns off leaving a clean wire.


Hi, Jackmels. Thanks for your response. I, too, was thinking about using wires from Bread Bag ties. 

Now, it's been about a week since my last post, and I have not seen any responses from YSHSfan, jtclays, or orangputeh. Where are these guys? Are they on vacation?


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Just seen this thread for the first time.
Are you still struggling or are you fine now?


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## mcflyfyter (Oct 23, 2016)

Jack28 said:


> Well, I managed to remove the throttle linkage from the carb.
> 
> I did not have any needle-nose pliers. Instead, I used some regular, thicker pliers. I removed the throttle linkage in a way that was similar to, but not the same as, the way depicted in the carb-removal video that I posted.
> 
> ...


I applaud your determination for sure. I would recommend setting up a video camera so you can record taking the carb apart. The biggest thing to watch is any adjustment screws on the carb. Yours may be capped off, I'm not sure. If there are any adjustments, screw them in while counting the turns until they stop so you can put them back in the factory setting. 

Although i didn't see any other troubleshooting performed, if it is the carb, it needs to be cleaned out. Worst case is you cant get it back together. In that case you could check the price of a new carb, and call some repair shops and go from there. I doubt a shop would charge you more than $20 to reassemble it for you. I just have to ask if you replaced the spark plug before jumping to the carburetor?


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

stuart80112 said:


> Just seen this thread for the first time.
> Are you still struggling or are you fine now?


I guess you are not online so let me give you my $0.02

I wish I had seen your FIRST message much earlier. 
You may not want to hear this but I strongly suspect that you didn't need to remove the carburetor in the first place.
That carburetor looks quite clean (for the most part). 

PART ONE: Sanity-check your assumptions

If you believed you were having fuel-supply problems I would have sanity-checked that assumption before doing anything else.
It's too late for that now but (for future reference and for anyone learning from your thread) you can check the fuel-supply assumption as follows.
1) take the spark plug out
2) Spray a few shots of carburetor cleaner (or engine starter "ether") into the engine.
3) quickly put the spark plug back in (before the stuff evaporates)
4) Reinsert and reconnect the spark plug
5) Turn all switches (if any) to the run position (These are called "kill switches".. they kill the spark by grounding)
6) Put your throttle lever into a middle or high position (to avoid the bottom position... this bottom position usually has an electrical connection to totally disable the spark.. it's called a "kill switch") 
7) Try to start the engine and hope to get a cough or a splutter or maybe even a short 2 second engine run
If it does indeed cough/splutter/run then the fuel-supply assumption has been confirmed. (ie your compression and spark are probably OK).
Note: Steps 1-4 can be avoided by simply opening up the choke butterfly and spraying directly into the carburetor. This is handy if you don't have a spark plug wrench.. It's what I usually do.
I took copies of all your images and will be annotating them so that you know the names of various components (just in case the words "choke butterfly" mean nothing to you). 

Let's assume that we have now confirmed the assumption that you have a fuel-supply problem.
At this point I would be looking for the MINIMUM amount of work that has a possibility of solving your problem.
After you've worked on 5 or 6 carburetors you might (notice I said "might") jump in and do a total carburetor clean. However... that is often NOT necessary

PART TWO: Just do the minimum work necessary.. it's your first time doing this.

Next things I would do (looking for the MINIMUM amount of work) are..
1) Do you have gas in the tank?
2) Is there a fuel shut-off valve? Are you SURE it's in the "run"or "flow" position
3) Does that gas smell rancid (like varnish ..or worse) when you remove the gas cap and sniff the gas
If yes... then you almost certainly have a dirty carburetor 
4) Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and catch the remaining bad gas in a container. Dispose of it in an eco-friendly way. Do not flush it down a drain or a toilet. Just put it in some kind of bottle and worry about it later. 
5) Pour gas into the gas tank to flush it out. Do this as many times as needed to get any gunk out of the gas tank and the fuel lines and tip the machine as necessary to let gravity get rid of all the partly-dirty flushing gas. 

Now we will do the MINIMUM work necessary on the carb...

1) Remove the bolt (ONLY THE BOLT) from the bottom of the carb and prepare to catch the bowl if it drops. Also anticipate a bowl-full of gas spilling out of the bowl. Use a rag to catch it or just let it fall and evaporate. Not very eco-friendly but your options are limited.
2) Very often, that bolt will have holes in it that MUST BE CLEAR. If they are blocked.. you may have found the culprit and you are nearly finished.
3) Spray carb cleaner into the holes in that bolt to clean it out. Watch out for spray flying in all directions...protect your eyes. You actually WANT it to spray in all directions out of all the holes to clear them.
4) Next we assume (predict) that there is gunk in the bowl.
5) remove the bowl and prepare to catch the bowl gasket if it drops off. Prepare to catch the float bowl and maybe the float needle if they drop off. On newer carbs, the float will just "hang" but not fall off
6) remove the carb gasket. Rubbery substances can easily be destroyed by carb cleaner. Anything rubbery is at risk of damage from carb cleaner (gas line, some gaskets, o-rings etc)
7) Look inside the bowl and anticipate seeing junk and varnish
8) spray carb cleaner into the bowl and clean it thoroughly.. use a paper towel to help clean it. If it is really bad, you may need a soft brush (tooth brush or brass brush) to scrape out the accumulated junk.
9) Spray carb cleaner up into the center of the carburetor. Some carbs (usually lawnmowers but not snowblowers) have a rubbery o-ring up there so only give it one or two quick squirts.
10) I notice your carb has a "jet" that you said was dirty.... before removing ANY screw-in "jet" you need to know how it is adjusted... do the following...
a) screw the "jet" fully IN and count the number of turns, half-turns or quarter turns needed to screw it in. Do not over tighten it.. as soon as you feel resistance STOP to avoid any damage
b) now take the jet out, clean it and do a quick squirt of carb-cleaner into the hole (there may be a rubbery o-ring there too so don't go crazy)
c) put the jet back in
d) tighten it in fully... again... stop as soon as you feel any resistance to avoid damage
e) now back the jet out using exactly the same number of turns as you did in step (10a) By the way.. this might be ZERO turns... if so.. fine)

PART THREE: Hoping for the best

At this point there is a very HIGH possibility that you have gone far enough and that the engine will work. WIth a bit of luck, gravity kept all the junk to the bottom end of the carb and bowl.
Some junk may be in deeper parts of the carb.. but that's often not the case. Don't do any more until you are CERTAIN you need to.
People who have cleaned 5 or 6 carbs may go deeper than this because they don''t want to keep assembling and taking apart the same carb.
However... until you have that level of experience you want to do ONLY THE MINIMUM.

11) reassemble the carb gasket, carb bowl and carb bolt (remember the washer on that bolt... if you forget it.. the carb will leak)
12) reattach the fuel line (hopefully things are dried out by now and you've wiggled the machine to get rid of all the crud.
13) Put in a small amount of FRESH fuel. Only use a small amount in case you end up needing to disconnect the fuel lines later... that will be less gas to worry about catching)
14) Make sure the gas shutoff valve is in the flow position and prime the gas several times... don't go crazy and flood everything... listen for the gas squirting as you pump
14) Start the engine!! There is a very good chance that you are done and it will run.

If it runs smoothly after warming up and closing the choke, then there is absolutely no need to remove the carburetor or mess with fuel lines or anything else.
So that's what I would have suggested after your first post... no need to take off the carb... yet!!
------------------------------------------------------------
PART FOUR: Two birds with one stone?

From your photos, the gas lines look just fine.
No need to change them unless they feel hard and crispy or if you know they are leaking
If they feel soft and spongy.. they are probably just fine.

I know why guys are suggesting that you change them.... they usually have parts in their garage and they have done this many times.. they are killing two birds with one stone.
However.... I would suggest to you that you only change them if you have EVIDENCE that they are bad (ie hard and crispy or leaking).
You probably do not have a supply of fuel line on hand and another trip to the store can be avoided. I usually need three trips to get anything done ;-)
You say you've already been struggling to get the fuel-line clips off (tweezers are too weak..use pliers) so why mess with more of those clips? 

Unfortunately, in your case, you have the carb off the machine.
I would still recommend doing only the MINIMUM necessary 
In other words... PUT IT BACK

Once again, guys will say "since you've gone this far ... why not do a,b,c,d"
That's because they've done this a dozen times and it's easy for them and they have all the parts sitting in their garage. Two birds with one stone again.
In your case, I can tell you are probably doing this for the FIRST time and you are naturally apprehensive.
You probably have ZERO parts on hand and only a few tools... I notice you don't have needle-nose pliers for example.
Do yourself a favor and just put it back... don't do anything else... it will probably just run!!
No point doing a deep dive unless you really have to.... or if you WANT to as a learning experience.
Sometimes it's good enough to get just one bird with one stone.
----------------------------------------------------------------
I will post this message now and then come back in a few minutes with a link to my copy of your images with my annotations on them.
That way you will understand some of the common vocabulary and how it relates to YOUR machine.
Your photos and black annotations with my red annotations added here:
https://goo.gl/photos/J9cpasLtGsMAe4L6A


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

These are your images with my annotations on them
I have tried to explain the main terminology

https://goo.gl/photos/J9cpasLtGsMAe4L6A

As you watch youtube videos and read posts on the forum, you will hear these terms used again and again
Hopefully you will now be able to relate those buzzwords to your machine and your carburetor

After a while, if you look at other machines, you'll see that all carburetors are very similar.
Hopefully the images may also help anyone coming along later who is learning from your experiences as they look at their first carburetor

You may have known some or all of these terms but the next person may be grateful to see these pictures annotated this way


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## mcflyfyter (Oct 23, 2016)

Please don't dump water in your fuel tank. There is nothing good that could come from that, only bad. If there is sediment in the tank, try spraying it out with carb cleaner, or flush with gasoline. 

If you have old gas that you need to get rid of, just dump it at about 40 to 1 in your car or truck.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

mcflyfyter said:


> Please don't dump water in your fuel tank. There is nothing good that could come from that, only bad. If there is sediment in the tank, try spraying it out with carb cleaner, or flush with gasoline.
> 
> If you have old gas that you need to get rid of, just dump it at about 40 to 1 in your car or truck.


I should have been clearer on that .. I will edit.

Plastic tanks work fine for me with water. I always use compressed air to dry them (however I didn't say that), I also use a small amount of gas to flush through after (I didn't say that either)
Metal tanks I would not use water because it can "flash rust". I thought about mentioning apple vinegar and backed off that too.
All things considered it will be easier if I edit that post to just talk about flushing with gas and don't mention vinegar OR water.

Also, I didn't want to suggest pouring the bad gas into the car gas tank. I would do it... if it was mostly clean...but even though it's super-diluted... I just decided to punt on suggesting that.
The trouble is, in the general case, we can't tell in advance if there's rust and really solid jelly-varnish goop in there. I 'd hate to have to mention all the specific case caveats or have someone speed-read and trash their injection system because I told them it was safe. Yes the car gas filter should save them but I just didn't want to go there. Remember these hints are intended for newbies. Telling them to "worry about it later" seemed like a safe punt.

Thanks for proof reading it


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## Jack28 (Jan 3, 2017)

Hi, stuart and mcflyfyter. Thank you very much for your responses.

I used a wire from a Bread Bag tie to clean the holes of the pilot jet. This jet had been located at the top of my carb and had been removed. The wire went through the holes very smoothly, and there was no dirt on the wire afterwards. So, I concluded that the pilot jet was not the problem. 

Next, I used the wire to clean the clogged jet at the bottom of the carb, without removing the jet itself.

After that, I took the carb, the pilot jet, the float bowl, and the float-bowl bolt to Home Depot. The guy there said that the clogged jet at the bottom of the carb had probably been the problem. There was still some dirt in that area. So, the guy at Home Depot used Carb Cleaner to clean my entire carb (after removing the float). Also, he cleaned the pilot jet and reattached the pilot jet to the rest of the carb. He then reattached the float. He did all of this, free of charge. 

Now that the carb has dried, I will attempt to reattach the carb to the rest of the snowblower. I may even have to buy some needle-nose pliers.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Jack28 said:


> Hi, stuart and mcflyfyter. Thank you very much for your responses.....


Rock on!
If you have any issues whatsoever just ask... we've got your back covered.
The only issue I predict now is remembering which hole on the carburetor throttle had the governor linkage hooked into it.
Cross that bridge if /when you come to it.


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