# MTD 190 032 42" Snow Blower



## union865 (Jan 14, 2017)

I have to replace the shear pins on this snow blower (the previous owner used cotter pins for shear pins and they rolled up between the tube the augers are welded to and the auger shaft) I need to remove the complete auger assembly and I cannot get the worm shaft out because I cannot remove the bearing on the backside of it. This bearing won't slide off of the shaft because of something that looks like it might be a ring of gunk. I tried to scrape it off, but it is actually a piece of steel. Looks like it might be a shoulder. I cannot get a bearing puller behind it because of the impeller housing. Any ideas on how to remove this bearing??? I also tried to separate the worm gear housing and it must be stuck together because when I removed the bolts holding it together, I couldn't use a screw driver to separate the 2 sides from each other. If I could do this, I might be able to remove the auger shaft that way to replace the shear pins after getting the cotter pins out of the shear pin holes. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

Can u unbolt the the augershaft from bucket, take out the pins on the throwing auger and slide the whole assembly back so the bearing comes away from the back of the bucket?


-efisher-


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## union865 (Jan 14, 2017)

No, the bearing is on the other end of the worm shaft and the housing holds the bearing in place, so it won't go through the hole in the housing. The hole is actually what holds the bearing in place on the auger side of the shaft.


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

The main bearing is on the Shaft side of the bucket not the pulley side?


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## union865 (Jan 14, 2017)

There is no pulley on this one. It has a gearbox and the bearing is between the gearbox and the impeller. The impeller bucket is between the augers and the bearing. I have to remove the bearing so the shaft will slide out of the front side of the housing.


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

So this is an attachment.... guess i should have looked it up before... does this have a shaft coupler between the bearing and onboard mower gearbox? If there is, theres a collar behind the bucket assembly holding the bearning, (this is what i see in the parts diagram). Am i in the right neighborhood?


-efisher-


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

I also found this, does it match yours?










-efisher-


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## union865 (Jan 14, 2017)

efisher, you are correct. That is the one that I have. BUT, you will have to look at the other picture of this parts diagram to see the bearing I am referring to. It is the bearing on the backside of the impellor housing that isn't shown in the picture you input. If yuo are looking at the other parts diagram picture, after I take off the coupler, I need to remove the bearing so the shaft can be removed from the auger side of the attachment. When I get a blow-up of this shaft, it shows that the bearing surface and the coupler surfaces are smooth and the same diameter. But on mine, it has a ridge or shoulder that is actually holding the bearing from sliding off of the end of this shaft. (The bearing is loose on the shaft, but tightens up when I try to pull it off of this shoulder or ridge.) I don't know if it was manufactured this way, or if it is some kind of messup, but it is there, and I cannot remove the bearing. I tried putting a prybar behind this bearing to help push it off, but I don't want to put too much pressure on the impeller housing in case it might get bent or worse.


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## union865 (Jan 14, 2017)

For some reason I can't input that other parts diagram into one of these replies like you did, but if you do find it, the bearing is part 72 in the parts diagram.


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

-efisher-


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

Can u get actual pictures?


-efisher-


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

union865 said:


> I have to replace the shear pins on this snow blower (the previous owner used cotter pins for shear pins and they rolled up between the tube the augers are welded to and the auger shaft) I need to remove the complete auger assembly and I cannot get the worm shaft out because I cannot remove the bearing on the backside of it. This bearing won't slide off of the shaft because of something that looks like it might be a ring of gunk. I tried to scrape it off, but it is actually a piece of steel. Looks like it might be a shoulder. I cannot get a bearing puller behind it because of the impeller housing. Any ideas on how to remove this bearing??? I also tried to separate the worm gear housing and it must be stuck together because when I removed the bolts holding it together, I couldn't use a screw driver to separate the 2 sides from each other. If I could do this, I might be able to remove the auger shaft that way to replace the shear pins after getting the cotter pins out of the shear pin holes. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


GEvening U865, I have one of those units. The shaft impeller shaft SHOULD be smooth, with no shoulder. Sounds like the bearing and shaft are badly worn. In any event, it's a reasonably inexpensive bearing that can be sacrificed, if it's preventing further disassembly. It sounds as if the shaft is bad, not to mention trying to get the augers off the shaft, due to incorrect shear pins. Messy job, but great learning experience......Experience is what you get, when you don't get what you want!!
GLuck, Jay


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

That was my thought, the shaft is worn, maybe heating the bearing would help, but at the end of day, cut it off and get new, light grinding if cant get it back on


-efisher-


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## union865 (Jan 14, 2017)

OK, I've never seen that picture before. I was looking in the parts manual. But, looking at it, the bearing is part 32.


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## union865 (Jan 14, 2017)

That makes a lot of sense. The bearing probably wore down the shaft and that is why there is a shoulder like ridge on it. I really didn't expect the bearing to be loose on that shaft. Now I can cut the shaft off anywhere and purchase a new one and bearing. I really do like things to be put back to gether the way design engineers designed it to be. Thanks efisher and Jayz for every bit of your opinions and your help.


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

The 2 pics I posted were slightly diff models I think, the augers are different. One solid auger, one open auger, but should be same With everything eles


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## union865 (Jan 14, 2017)

Yes, they are a good enough example that someone can figure out what I was trying to do. Thanks for the info and the pictures. I ordered a shaft and brass gear ($100) and a new bearing ($65) and already cut the worm shaft in pieces so I could get it out. I'll take off the augers and clean the auger shaft and give it a good amount of automotive axle grease and put it back together with new shear pins, the way it came from the factory. When I get the worm shaft and new brass gear for the auger shaft, I can put that back together with lots of grease and then get this thing put back together complete. Thanks again for helping with this.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GEvening U865, After all that work, you may want to try Marine Grease...That's what I use when lubing the Augers and shafts. Seems to hold up well against salt, freezing and general corrosion. And I use the "00" grease in the gear boxes on assembly. GLuck, Jay


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

Anti-seize is usually recomended for auger shafts. From what ive heard


-efisher-


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Anti-Seize is swell stuff...I use it a lot......But unfortunately I've been unable to find tubes of it to fit my grease gun. I normally use a tub of marine grease, brushed on during assembly. After assembly, I'll use the grease gun on the fittings, preferring not to mix the grease, and verify the Zerks take grease. If you know where i can get never-seize in Grease Cartridge Tubes, please let me know. Thanx, Jay


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