# Ariens ST724 – Questions? – Welding Advice? – Keep or Sell?



## evh (Jun 22, 2015)

I picked up this Ariens ST724 fairly cheap. It is a 7hp HSK70 4-Stroke Tecumseh electric start with a 24” width. It is model 932027. Here are my questions / comments if anyone can advise.

Comments:
-	I have been a member of this forum for a number of years, but this is my first 2-stage
-	I know Ariens are one of the better names but I am think this is one of their cheaper models
-	I am surprised at its condition. I have gone over it and I have easily fixed the most obvious issues (clean the carb, fix recoil, clean it up, oil and lube, etc.) – See attached photo #1
-	It does look like the wheels have been replaced with plastic rimmed “Carlisle” wheels/tires
-	One of the Auger curly parts needs to be welded/attached to its straight parts (photo #2 shows a correctly attached one, photo #3 shows the separated one)
-	The skid plate needs replacing

Questions:
-	I have never welded before but could this be welded with one of those cheaper 120V wire fed welders?
-	The metal looks in good enough condition that I have even thought about drilling and screwing it, thoughts? JB-Weld?
-	Any idea what year this could be from? I see the model number starts with 93, could it be 1993? I find it hard to believe it is that old and in this good of condition.
-	Any other thoughts/comments? I don’t really need it but I am trying to figure out if I should keep it, fix the things I indicated and sell it, or part it out and sell the parts (a lot of work on this option)

Thanks!


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

Looking at the thickness, that should be doable with a 120v welder and flux core. Looks like you'll need to add some metal though, as the weld and some of the surrounding metal seems to have rusted away.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

I welded the auger and bucket on my son's machine using a cheap 120 volt flux core welder. Only used it a couple of times so what I learned is to grind the metal to get rid of rust to shiny surface and don't rely on welder ground to the work-piece, attach a vice grip to the bright metal auger close to the welding as a good ground and attach the welder grounding cable to that. I had the auger off the machine so not sure about possible damage to electrics/electronics from a 120 volt welding voltage/current. 

From what I understand the wire speed is more important than the 4 power settings on my welder. It takes a good ground and some practice to get the wire speed right for the metal thickness. There is some weld spatter so long gloves are necessary.

I did a lot of welding on the bucket and augers but nothing put to the test yet.


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## evh (Jun 22, 2015)

rslifkin & Town,

Thanks for the info. For years I have wanted to try welding. Now I have a reason to and the cost of these welders is within budget. If you have any other tips or thoughts, please continue to share.

EVH


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

If you're going out to buy a welder, find something with decent adjustments and the ability to do flux core or shielding gas like the Eastwood Mig 135 or something like that. Skip the flux core only stuff and the stuff with minimal adjustments, as it'll limit what you can do with it and be harder to use effectively.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

When I welded the auger I bolted it together first as a backup for my lack of experience welding. I welded the bolt head and nut to the auger and welded the auger ribbon to the strake (curved support) so it is positioned correctly. 

My welder is flux core and gas shielding (MIG) so there are more power settings than just the flux core and the welding thickness is greater. I think shielding gas is for inside use since wind is an issue. I only do welding outside so the extra expense of gas fittings is not applicable to me. The set came with a hand held shield with fixed darkened view which is useless for me. I bought an auto darkening shield that fits on my head. There are adjustments for sensitivity etc that you need to know about. My helmet is set to high sensitivity so it darkens very quickly and lightens very quickly. It cost more than the welder, but was on sale for a lot cheaper. The set came with a combined wire brush and hammer tool which is low quality and useless. I bought a special hammer like the stick welders use but it is not necessary. Buy a good wire brush and that will remove all the scale which is very light for flux welding (no scale for MIG). Spatter is very common and this is very hot metal not scale so it sticks and needs to be ground off if the work is not protected. The flux wire needs to be multi pass so that you can weld over your prior weld to build up the necessary thickness of metal. The welder works well on a nominal 120 volt household 15 amp circuit and has never tripped a breaker; while my son has a 120 volt stick welder that is always tripping a 15 amp breaker, a 20 amp breaker is necessary regardless of what the manufacturer says. 

Here is my welder: Mastercraft Mig and Flux Welder | Canadian Tire which I got on sale for about $200 or so (Canadian). My welder is very heavy for me to carry around so I would recommend a welding cart or similar to carry the welder and the accessories. 

Good luck.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Not a Model I would Invest Money in with the Problematic Plastic Wheels and Small Diameter Chute. However, It has a Double shaft Engine, which is worth Something to the Person who needs one. I'd look for a Used 924050, which are plentiful, and are "Real" vs "Toy".


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Have one of the same model that I’m going to try to replace the axle from a parts machine to put real wheels on, but will not put much money into this machine as parting it out would be a good option if it needs much for repairs. Not a higher priced blower used with plastic wheels.


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

rslifkin said:


> If you're going out to buy a welder, find something with decent adjustments and the ability to do flux core or shielding gas like the Eastwood Mig 135 or something like that. Skip the flux core only stuff and the stuff with minimal adjustments, as it'll limit what you can do with it and be harder to use effectively.


Flux has its place, but if you don't weld in a windy environment off the back of a truck, pay for the gas and the cylinder. A StarGold style mix (75% CO2, 25% Argon) is good for general purpose steel (not AL). I've got a Miller 251 MIG and a Miller Syncrowave 200 -- both way overkill for your app. Welders are like snowblowers--you get what you pay for. One nice application you find with gas MIG (not flux) is that it is easy to do sheet and panel work. I've rebuilt several scoops on blowers that dealers have said are write-offs or wanted hundreds for replacement side panels. My most recent was on a Honda HS520 that had got lots of damage from scrapping the pavement. With a little practice and a pair of tin snips you can MIG repair these, but not with flux core.

I've yet to work on a blower with lots of AL on it, but if you think at some time you may want to weld AL, you'll need a AL gun accessory. On the big box models they are hard to find years later. Sounds like you will be fine with steel alloys only so likely be OK.

If you opt for a big store welder (and for your purposes almost any of these has enough power--it is more a question of duty cycle really) check to see for availability of replacement liners, especially if you do go flux core, and cost of tanks). The lack of liner availability/gun failures in big box store models is the biggest source of complaint as the machine ages out. Millers, Lincolns, etc., you can always find them, even 20 years out. And buy a auto darkening helmet no matter what. Even the cheap ones are better than what you get in a big box "kit."

Best of luck.


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## evh (Jun 22, 2015)

Dauntae,

You say you have the same model. Can you tell me if the plastic rimmed tires were standard equipment? I can't tell if these are original or if the original metal rims were replaced with what I currently have.

Thanks.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I've parted a Few. Plastic wheels were Original.


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## evh (Jun 22, 2015)

The bad news is they are plastic, the good news is mine are original!!! Thanks Jackmels.


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## evh (Jun 22, 2015)

Well, I welded the auger. It's not pretty, but it will hold. I did buy one of the inexpensive flux welders. I would say it worked well. The biggest problem I had was I couldn't see!!!

I borrowed a hood from a family member and it wasn't one of the ones with an auto-dimming lens. Wow, put the hood down and guess where every thing is at.

I can see I need to get the auto ones.

Thanks to all of you for your comments/help!


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

evh said:


> Well, I welded the auger. It's not pretty, but it will hold. I did buy one of the inexpensive flux welders. I would say it worked well. The biggest problem I had was I couldn't see!!!
> 
> I borrowed a hood from a family member and it wasn't one of the ones with an auto-dimming lens. Wow, put the hood down and guess where every thing is at.
> 
> ...


I promise all of your "I can't see issues" are resolved with an auto dark helmet. I'll bet I've had a dozen guys in my shop to try out an auto dark model only to leave and say they were on their way to go buy one. 

You'll feel like a pro in no time. Really.


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## evh (Jun 22, 2015)

Can any previous ST724 owners share if they sold their ST724 and:

- What did you sell it for $$$
- What condition was it in
- How quickly did it sell

I did some research across Craigslist and I found them from $200 - $500. Mine is in good shape and I am think about starting at $295 or $325 and adjusting from there. Although I like the $500 price tag...

Thoughts?


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

evh said:


> Can any previous ST724 owners share if they sold their ST724 and:
> 
> - What did you sell it for $$$
> - What condition was it in
> ...



If someones offers 285 buy them lunch


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Sold one about 3 weeks ago, got $150. Was Pretty Clean w/electric starter. Been trying to get rid of it for at least a year.


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## evh (Jun 22, 2015)

Well, that's not encouraging....


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