# Auger Idler pulley kit



## JJ21

I have a Husqvarna 10530 SBE. The auger idler pulley appears to float for and aft too much.
Everything online is pointing me to a replacement kit # 532422762. The kit includes a silver redesigned idler arm, and a crankshaft pully and a belt. However, the existing idler arm (black) has a brake pad to stop the auger pulley. This new kit does not have a brake pad, nor does my old brake pad unbolt off of the old idler. In addition, the new kit does not seem to have the idler pulley itself only the crankshaft pulley. I am wondering if this is the right idler pulley kit.

Any help would be appreciated !


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## kehubbard

If you are thinking that the idler pulley is the root of your issue it is available separately. Part number 532180523


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF JJ21









Maybe their customer service or contacting a dealer would be a good choice. Husqvarna Contact Us


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## JJ21

thank you for the replies.... I can try to remove the old idler pully and put in on the new idler arm. I was just wondering if this kit is the right kit. Idler arm seems to be the right dimensions but there is no brake pad on it. The old one has a brake pad that stops the pulley/auger from spinning. The old brake pad does not unbolt off and the new one only has that little flange with the hole as shown in the photo. Makes me think this is not the right kit, but lots of online stores say it is the right replacement.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

I have noticed the same issue with my 10530SBE. I was thinking of modifying the existing impeller idler pulley arm to get rid of the slop. Since I have my machine separated right now and the belly pan off, I can get a good look at the slop. It may just need some bushings on the idler pivot pin. We'll see. I'll post pictures if I come up with something.

I had the issue of the impeller belt not rotating the impeller/auger when a load was applied to the machine (blowing snow). I'm hoping the belt is just stretched out. The idler pulley fully engages the belt, but there was too much slack in the belt. Only other option would be to try and find a smaller belt or use a larger impeller drive pulley.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

I would assume you need to use the old idler pulley on the new bracket. It does unbolt.

Maybe the new bracket is used with the old one? It could stabilize it? $77 dollars is expensive (plus tax and shipping, would make it even worse). I just bought a new belt and impeller drive pulley, so this kit would be a waste for me.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

I looked up the kit 532422762 and noticed the v-belt included is 532 40 80-07. That is not the belt for a 10530SBE (532 40 80-10 is correct belt). 

532 40 80-07 = 0.61" X 38" 

532 40 80-10 = 0.59" X 37.625" 

The included impeller drive pulley must be different than the original one. Maybe it is larger, hence the longer belt. I think a larger pulley would rotate the impeller faster?

The new bracket is the impeller idler arm pivot bracket and the idler arm as one piece. So the old ones don't get reused. It does not include the idler pulley, but that can be reused. I guess the brake pad is not seen as necessary. It does seem that this design will fix the slop issue. I don't know if it will make the machine perform better. If the impeller drive pulley is larger, then it probably will.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

I have contacted some of the sellers of this idler pulley service kit through email about the included impeller drive pulley and v-belt. Hopefully they have knowledgeable people answering the questions.

I would buy one of these kits if the new pulley is larger and improves throwing distance. Unfortunately I would have to return the new pulley and belt I just bought (separate online orders). 

I wish I came across this thread a few days ago when I was searching for advice on the impeller drive pulley. At least there is no foreseeable snow in my future.


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## JJ21

thanks for the replies... I did not use the new idler arm since I wasn't convinced it was correct with no brake. I did use the belt included with the kit on the existing pulleys and it seemed to fit and work. Maybe I need to get the 37.625" belt just to make sure.

If you come up with something else to remove the slop, such as bushings let me know. that would be great.

I do not understand the missing brake... there is a metal tab there. A metal tab rubbing on the pulley would be worse than nothing so it makes me think this kit was originally designed for a different machine, perhaps with a bolt on brake pad. My 105 SBE does not have a removable brake pad.

Good news is the engine starts first pull all the time, so I hate to give this machine up.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

So you bought the Idler Pulley Service Kit (532422762)? And all you used from the kit was the belt? It doesn't make sense that the 408007 belt would work being longer than the proper belt, unless your 10530SBE is different than mine.

If you do have the kit, can you measure the diameter of the impeller drive pulley that came with it? Mine is 2 3/4".


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Yeah, I noticed that there is a tab on the new bracket that could allow for a brake to be mounted (but I don't think that would be possible because of clearance issues). I would hope that the pulley would not be able to contact that tab (could always cut it off).

I'm going to spend some time on the machine this weekend. Going to do some experimentation.

I haven't heard back yet from the companies I contacted about the kit. Hopefully one of them can shed some light on the situation.


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## JJ21

I was mistaken, I did not install the belt that came with the idler kit, I just went out and looked in the kit box and the 8007 belt is still in my box. I now remember while the kit was in shipping, I went to Tractor Supply and bought both the drive and auger belt just by taking the old ones in and finding the best match.

However I did measure the new auger pulley that came with the kit (the one that goes on the crankshaft - not on the idler arm. It is actually smaller 2 11/16" but pretty close, this is the outer rib diameter so maybe the groove the belts sits in is perhaps larger than the original, I am not sure. . I did not measure my original pulley as it is on my snow blower and it is all assembled and so far, working.

thanks..


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Thanks for measuring the pulley. Well I know that a brand new 408010 (impeller belt for the 10530SBE) is 5/8" wide at widest point. Can you get a measurement of the 408007? The fact that the larger pulley below inside the chassis is not changed out would tell me that the belts are the same width at least, but the 408007 could be wider. Maybe the new idler pulley arm bracket takes more slack out of the belt than the original one does, providing more resistance for the belt to NOT slip in pulleys.

I contacted an ebay seller about the service kit, but they could not provide and helpful info. Still waiting from a couple others. Probably won't hear from them until Monday or Tuesday. At least my near future weather forecast is only rain.

I'll be messing around with the idler pulley bracket tomorrow to see if I can decrease the slop.


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## JJ21

it appears 5/8" too. See photo.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Hmm, this service kit doesn't make much sense to me. It includes a new belt that is a 1/2" longer than the original. A new impeller drive pulley that seems to be about the same as the original. The idler pulley bracket is a better design than the original, but doesn't include a pulley brake.

If I had $75-85 to blow, I would try the kit out, but I don't see much benefit to it.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Well, I received the new impeller drive pulley and v-belt for the drive wheels. The new pulley is lighter in weight and seems cheaply made. I slid it on the engine output shaft and it wiggles a little. The old one fits tight. I might be returning the pulley. It's probably the same pulley included in the idler pulley service kit. The fact that the pulley has a new superseded part # is maybe why they include it in the kit. It looks as though they used a different material, maybe something that won't rust so much.

I bought some stainless steel washers and a bronze thrust washer to try and lessen the slop with the idler pulley arm. I think adding the thrust washer has helped stabilize the arm and keeps it moving straighter. I also added the stainless washers at the end of the pivot pin to take up room between the bracket and pivot pin retainer clip.


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## Oneacer

Belt # 408007 is:
SIZE: 5/8"x38"


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

oneacer said:


> Belt # 408007 is:
> SIZE: 5/8"x38"


I know, and belt # 408010 is 5/8" x 37.5" (which is the belt listed for the 10530 SBE). Check link below...









PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


Parts lookup and repair parts diagrams for outdoor equipment like Toro mowers, Cub Cadet tractors, Husqvarna chainsaws, Echo trimmers, Briggs engines, etc.




www.partstree.com


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## JJ21

thanks for the photo of the extra washers on the existing idler arm. I will give that a try. I think the kit isn't very useful.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

JJ21 said:


> thanks for the photo of the extra washers on the existing idler arm. I will give that a try. I think the kit isn't very useful.


No problem. We are here to learn and help each other.

BTW, the bronze thrust washer is 1" - O.D. x 9/16" - I.D. The three stainless steel washers are 1" - O.D. x 1/4" I.D. I did have to use a round file to make the SS washers around 5/16" I.D. to fit. I also had to slightly enlarge the I.D. of the bronze washer. You will see why the I.D. needs to be larger for the bronze washer than the SS washers when you remove the idler arm.


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## Snoblowz

JJ21 said:


> I have a Husqvarna 10530 SBE. The auger idler pulley appears to float for and aft too much.
> Everything online is pointing me to a replacement kit # 532422762. The kit includes a silver redesigned idler arm, and a crankshaft pully and a belt. However, the existing idler arm (black) has a brake pad to stop the auger pulley. This new kit does not have a brake pad, nor does my old brake pad unbolt off of the old idler. In addition, the new kit does not seem to have the idler pulley itself only the crankshaft pulley. I am wondering if this is the right idler pulley kit.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated !
> 
> View attachment 171181


Recently purchased the same snow blower as the rest of you all and ran into the same problem. I found that at the end of the auger shaft control where it controls the auger pulley to put tension on the auger belt was missing the actuator roller and crescent ring (part # 53 & 54 on diagram for engine/chassis/pulleys). Without this part the pulley arm would slip off and not engage. Also it appears the roller is thick and could possibly apply more tension on the belt. 
Bought new E clip and rigged a roller of my own but because the pulley arm moves back and forth it slid off causing the clip and rigged roller to fall off. The auger control shaft also has some play back forth which does not help. For the time being I ended up rigging a rubber hose on the end of the control shaft knob where the roller and clip should be. Let it hang off the knob about a half inch. Then clamped metal pipe of the rubber. Seems to apply more tension and accommodates for the pulley arm slippage. If it falls off then I will come up with something better since I haven’t heard of an appropriate fix yet. 
I came across this thread looking for info in regards to the pulley service kit. I wouldn’t worry about the brake pad. Technically once you disengage the auger it should stop. My brake appears to be so worn out that it doesn’t stop anything. The design of the newer pulley does look stronger but don’t know for sure. 
The washers on the pulley bolt does help a little but I still get some back and forth slop described in previous comments. 
Overall it’s a poor design. When I have time I will remove that auger control shaft and make that control knob longer.


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## JJ21

thanks for the further insight into this issue !


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF Snoblowz









Thanks for the info.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Wow, I have to say I never noticed those two parts (53 and 54). I don't think my machine has the roller on there. Will have to look into that. That could certainly add a little more tension on the belt. Have to check my misc. parts bins. I did replace some parts when I rebuilt the machine, so I have a snowthrower bin with a few things in it. I just can't see a reason to remove that roller when I rebuilt it. It was a Lowes machine, so maybe it was never installed.

The washers I added didn't take away all of the slop, but the arm does now move back and forth fully and smoothly. Better than before. I've never had a problem with the idler pulley arm slipping off end of auger control shaft. You might have another issue.

I ordered the parts that make up the new idler pulley arm (arm, bracket, bolt and nut). Only cost about $20. A lot better than spending $75 for the service kit. The service kit does come with a longer belt (38" instead of 37.75" stock). The new arm might increase the tension even more, hence the longer belt. As far as I can tell, the drive pulley that comes with the service kit is the same as the original.


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## Snoblowz

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> Wow, I have to say I never noticed those two parts (53 and 54). I don't think my machine has the roller on there. Will have to look into that. That could certainly add a little more tension on the belt. Have to check my misc. parts bins. I did replace some parts when I rebuilt the machine, so I have a snowthrower bin with a few things in it. I just can't see a reason to remove that roller when I rebuilt it. It was a Lowes machine, so maybe it was never installed.
> 
> The washers I added didn't take away all of the slop, but the arm does now move back and forth fully and smoothly. Better than before. I've never had a problem with the idler pulley arm slipping off end of auger control shaft. You might have another issue.
> 
> I ordered the parts that make up the new idler pulley arm (arm, bracket, bolt and nut). Only cost about $20. A lot better than spending $75 for the service kit. The service kit does come with a longer belt (38" instead of 37.75" stock). The new arm might increase the tension even more, hence the longer belt. As far as I can tell, the drive pulley that comes with the service kit is the same as the original.


Mine is a Lowe’s machine as well. I ended up going through trial and error with my auger rod rig. I ended up with a piece of rubber hose with hose clamps to make up for parts 53&54. Puts more tension on the belt for sure. The hose I used is high pressure so the wall thickness adds 1/4 - 3/8 inch of tension to the arm.









Also while going through the machine I found several nuts and bolts that were loose including the motor mounts. With my engine moving so much it may have played a part in the pulley arm slipping off the auger rod. 

I bought this snow blower used and expected problems to occur. Once you get that proper tension on the auger belt the snow will fly once again until the next problem.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

I haven't checked out my snowthrower yet (been raining), but I did buy #53 and #54 on eBay earlier today ($5 shipped).

Is that 1/4" ID x 1/2" OD fuel line? I might try that out. Would definitely add more tension than that metal roller. I just wonder if the metal roller works better. Will have to try different setups to see which one operates best.

These machines are usually pretty solid (with proper maintenance). The auger belt is most common problem I see. The engines have issues (carb), but that is usually owner fault.


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## Snoblowz

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> I haven't checked out my snowthrower yet (been raining), but I did buy #53 and #54 on eBay earlier today ($5 shipped).
> 
> Is that 1/4" ID x 1/2" OD fuel line? I might try that out. Would definitely add more tension than that metal roller. I just wonder if the metal roller works better. Will have to try different setups to see which one operates best.
> 
> These machines are usually pretty solid (with proper maintenance). The auger belt is most common problem I see. The engines have issues (carb), but that is usually owner fault.


I will find out the size of the hose I used and get back to you. I believe I started off with 1/4” ID but was a little loose. That hose there I heated the end up with a heat gun and shoved it right on that auger rod. Once it cooled it was pretty snug. Put the hose clamp on for extra strength. The other hose clamp is so the pulley arm doesn’t rip through the hose. It has worked well so far. I’ve made minor adjustments again and will post an updated pic with the specs for the parts I used for anyone interested. 

My pulley arm has a lot of slop even with extra washers. I noticed the pulley arm was riding the groove for the ring clip (part 53 or 54). I did make a metal roller and purchased ring clips and E clips to recreate the original parts. The problem was with all the pulley arm slop when engaging the auger the pulley arm would put so much pressure on the ring clip or E clip that it would just fly off eventually. 

I love this machine especially now that I’ve gotten to know her a little better.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

If you look at the picture from my post (#16) on page one, that setup has made a huge improvement in the movement of the idler pulley arm on my machine. I can't see the arm pushing the retaining clip off the end of the rod. I will definitely test it out when I get the parts.


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## Snoblowz

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> If you look at the picture from my post (#16) on page one, that setup has made a huge improvement in the movement of the idler pulley arm on my machine. I can't see the arm pushing the retaining clip off the end of the rod. I will definitely test it out when I get the parts.


I used 6mm oil hose on that auger end. 









I may have not used enough washers to tighten my pulley arm which is why I have the issue of the clips breaking off. 

I originally replaced the missing parts with a piece of thick wall piping and an E clip. But like I said before the arm pushes hard against the E clip causing it to fly off. Also I noticed that there was still enough play in the pulley arm to put more tension on. The rubber hose made up that little bit of slack. Worked so far. 

Best of luck.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

I believe 6mm is just under a 1/4". That is 6mm ID? 

I have some left over 1/4" ID fuel line from when I replaced the fuel line on my lawnmower. Will try that out.

Maybe you have an issue with the metal rod that runs from the back of the chassis to the idler pulley arm? From what I remember the idler pulley arm does not come close to the end of the rod on my machine.

Is it possible for you to take some pictures or video of your idler pulley arm in action? I will try to document my tests when the weather permits and the roller and clip get delivered.


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## Snoblowz

Yeah I can take some video. And yes the auger rod does have some play to it as well. There is a washer that is supposed to go between the housing and the auger rod before attaching the control lever. Most definitely worn out or non existent. 

The rubber hose rig is just a quick fix for the time being. When it’s tine to put her away for the warmer seasons I will take the time to disassemble and modify. 

It’s a easy fix but irritating to discover.


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## Snoblowz

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> I believe 6mm is just under a 1/4". That is 6mm ID?
> 
> I have some left over 1/4" ID fuel line from when I replaced the fuel line on my lawnmower. Will try that out.
> 
> Maybe you have an issue with the metal rod that runs from the back of the chassis to the idler pulley arm? From what I remember the idler pulley arm does not come close to the end of the rod on my machine.
> 
> Is it possible for you to take some pictures or video of your idler pulley arm in action? I will try to document my tests when the weather permits and the roller and clip get delivered.





Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> I believe 6mm is just under a 1/4". That is 6mm ID?
> 
> I have some left over 1/4" ID fuel line from when I replaced the fuel line on my lawnmower. Will try that out.
> 
> Maybe you have an issue with the metal rod that runs from the back of the chassis to the idler pulley arm? From what I remember the idler pulley arm does not come close to the end of the rod on my machine.
> 
> Is it possible for you to take some pictures or video of your idler pulley arm in action? I will try to document my tests when the weather permits and the roller and clip get delivered.





Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> I believe 6mm is just under a 1/4". That is 6mm ID?
> 
> I have some left over 1/4" ID fuel line from when I replaced the fuel line on my lawnmower. Will try that out.
> 
> Maybe you have an issue with the metal rod that runs from the back of the chassis to the idler pulley arm? From what I remember the idler pulley arm does not come close to the end of the rod on my machine.
> 
> Is it possible for you to take some pictures or video of your idler pulley arm in action? I will try to document my tests when the weather permits and the roller and clip get delivered.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

That doesn't look to bad, movement wise. That side to side slop is typical. I was able to reduce some of it with the washers. 

The roller and clip (53 & 54) I ordered should be delivered Monday, so I'll install them and see if that adds to the tension of the belt. My machine is missing them and I could not find them in any of the bins I have old parts in. My machine either never had them or I lost them. I'm leaning towards the former. I'm thinking of changing the impeller drive pulley from 2.75" to 3". That extra 1/4" might negate the need for the roller. That will probably be a summer project, though.

Update:
Found old pics when I was taking the machine apart to restore it. No roller.









That is how the other end of the rod should look like inside chassis.


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## Snoblowz

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> That doesn't look to bad, movement wise. That side to side slop is typical. I was able to reduce some of it with the washers.
> 
> The roller and clip (53 & 54) I ordered should be delivered Monday, so I'll install them and see if that adds to the tension of the belt. My machine is missing them and I could not find them in any of the bins I have old parts in. My machine either never had them or I lost them. I'm leaning towards the former. I'm thinking of changing the impeller drive pulley from 2.75" to 3". That extra 1/4" might negate the need for the roller. That will probably be a summer project, though.
> 
> Update:
> Found old pics when I was taking the machine apart to restore it. No roller.
> View attachment 176250
> 
> 
> That is how the other end of the rod should look like inside chassis.
> View attachment 176249



That slop is what I believe causes wear and tear on the clip that holds the roller in place. Without that rubber hose rig the pulley arm would sit at the very end on the knob in the groove that the clip locks into. That groove is what made me wonder what the hell goes there. When I looked in my owners manual it does not show that end of the auger control rod. It also doesn’t list parts 53 & 54. Had to find different parts diagram list online and that’s how i found those two parts. The pic you posted shows the same wear I have which is rusted and worn at the tip of that auger rod knob. 

When you put that new roller on and engage the auger see how far that pulley arm goes. That’s where I first noticed my problem. When I engaged my auger the pulley arm would slide over as it should but it also had more room to go to apply more tension. I could push on the pulley arm and move it about 1/4 inch more into the belt applying more tension. 

I used it yesterday and it’s never worked so well since I bought it. Shoots snow 15 - 20 feet and the faster I went into the snow piles the further it shot. Handled large piles much easier then before. That extra tension definitely was the fix.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Before I added the washers between the idler pulley arm and mounting bracket I noticed the idler pulley would not fully engage the belt. The slop would cause the back of the impeller pulley brake pad on the lower section of the idler pulley arm to contact the chassis at an angle. With the washers, the back of the brake pad now contacts the chassis completely flat, allowing the idler pulley full engagement.

The service kit's new idler pulley arm fixes that problem, but I don't think it is necessary.

My machine shoots show anywhere from 15-30 feet depending on the type of snow, right now. I'm curious to see if that would increase with the roller or hose mod you have.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Well, I got the roller and crescent ring today. The roller is 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID x 1/2" long, making it only 1/8" thick. That is not going to significantly impact the tension put on the belt. It must be there just for a smoother function of the idler pulley arm as the end of the rod slides up and down the arm. Doesn't seem to be an important part.

Unfortunately it was raining today. Will play around with it tomorrow, if I have time. I just hope I can install it without having to separate the machine.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Well, finally got around to to playing with the machine today. I think I know why my thrower (and maybe all of them) never had the roller on the end of the rod. Just like your thrower, the idler pulley arm on mine lines up with the groove meant for the crescent ring that holds the roller in place. Which makes the roller useless.

Maybe they made the rods too short. Or maybe the holes in the chassis to mount the idler pulley arm bracket were drilled in the wrong spot. It's only about a 1/4" off. 

I did buy the parts that make up the "newer" idler pulley arm that comes in the service kit (~$20). I will try it out this summer. Maybe I'll be able to use the roller then.

BTW, If I was to use the roller, I would need to adjust the two piece rod that runs vertically from the auger lever to the back of the chassis.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Hmm, I was just looking at the parts diagram and clicked on the auger control arm and noticed that the original part # has been superseded. I checked out a few retailers and ebay to look at some pictures. It looks like the new part has the roller built-in to the end of the rod. It also changes how the bracket attaches to the end of the rod at the back of the chassis, the piece that the large spring hooks into. 

Some reviewers say the newer auger control rod is better built and works better than the original. It might be worth trying out. It costs around $55-65 depending on shipping, but can always return it. 

More things to work on this summer.

Husqvarna 532419877


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