# 1968 Ariens, where to start?



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

My previous post mentioned someone gave me this classic 1968 Ariens. I have full intention on restoring this for fun and want to get some advice from you all in regards to where should I start first? I know the auger link to handle control is broken so I need to fix that. I figured the gas is old so I would start be draining and cleaning the carb and changing the oil and spark plug. The machine will not fire up now but that could be due to really old gas (2+ years). What do you? I don't want to spend money on this until I know it functions. The previous owner told me it ran 2+ years ago. I have no reason to doubt her as she's a friend.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Try starting fluid. If it starts you know it’s a fuel issue, then you can change fuel and clean carb.


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

if it ran 2 years ago and you trust her, draining the gas, cleaning/rebuilding the carb is a tiny investment.

do you get resistance when pulling it over (compression?)

also, test for spark... the points (in the magneto assembly behind the flywheel) often need some TLC... I'm willing to bet they're pitted. I've had good success sanding-out the pitting.


----------



## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

whats your plan for it......"show er" or blower ? if you want it to be a blower.....go with a repower, ( predator). a "show er" is "potentially" less expensive but you miss out on the performance for nostalgia .


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I second the starting fluid to see if it fires and if so going with flushing out the tank a bit and then fresh fuel. I'd try to get it running without cleaning the carb first and if once you get it running it runs well you don't need to. If it doesn't then you either add some fuel system cleaner which might do the job or tear the carb down and clean it if you've tested the spark and found it good.

.


----------



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Check the spark, shine points if necessary ( kind of a job, you have to pull the flywheel). I would go with a new Chinese carb, but a good cleaning at the least. Then if you want to get fancy, start painting.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

classiccat said:


> if it ran 2 years ago and you trust her, draining the gas, cleaning/rebuilding the carb is a tiny investment.
> 
> do you get resistance when pulling it over (compression?)
> 
> also, test for spark... the points (in the magneto assembly behind the flywheel) often need some TLC... I'm willing to bet they're pitted. I've had good success sanding-out the pitting.


I do get resistance from the pull cord but only sometime. What does this mean?

And sometime i can push it and the wheels will move and other times it would barely move. What do you think it is?


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Macplee said:


> I do get resistance from the pull cord but only sometime. What does this mean?


with a 4 stroke, you should only feel resistance on 1 of the up-strokes; compression stroke. Down: intake + *Up: Compression* + BOOM! Down: Power + Up: Exhaust. 

These engines do have an automatic compression release that bumps-open the exhaust valve a tad during the compression stroke (_when it's running full-speed, the ACR is retracted_).




Macplee said:


> And sometime i can push it and the wheels will move and other times it would barely move. What do you think it is?


If it's the same traction assembly that's on my '71, the handlebar lever is essentially a clutch... lifting the friction wheel off of the drive plate so that you're able to change gears.

So if it's not in "Neutral" or it's out of adjustment (contacting the friction plate even in neutral), the wheels will be difficult to move.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Ok, no luck starting this and no spark from the spark plug. I drained the gas and the carb bowl looks like this. And I pumped and drained the oil and that looks even worst.

Can not get it to engage in natural or reverse. How do adjust that?

Flywheel does have teeth, does anyone know what model starter I can put on this? That is if it will start and I go ahead and invest in this. So far I have not spend any money on it.


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

First things first. Check it over to determine if it is worth fixing. Check the tractor, auger assy, etc. Get spark before doing anything else. After spark try firing it with carb/choke cleaner. Starting fluid always seemed a bit too hot for my liking. If it fires then go after fuel system. Make sure it has enough oil before running it any length of time. *Don't worry about finding an electric starter motor until you get it running. *Why buy something you may not be able to use?
I hope you get the old girl going again.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

If I am not getting sparks with a new spark plug then can I assume it’s the wire or the points that needs attention?


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Macplee said:


> If I am not getting sparks with a new spark plug then can I assume it’s the wire or the points that needs attention?


Double check w/another plug to be sure. If you don't want to buy another one take one out of another machine. By sure you're *properly grounding the plug or it will not show spark.*


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Grounded the spark plug and still no sparks. I want to clean and lightly sand the points but can’t figure out how to remove this. I was able to remove the middle but that held the protective screen but I don’t see anything else holding this down. Any idea?


----------



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

put a sacrificial nut to protect the threads on the crankshaft.....pry up on the flywheel...and it it hard with a BFH...it will pop off. Open up the cover of the points, and shine them up good with crocus cloth.....button up and try it. No spark repeat and try again. This is why I repower all old engines before breakerless with newer engines or Predators. You let that bad girl set for a while and you will have the same issue again.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Was able to take the flywheel off and lightly sanded the points. Now I have sparks with the new plug. Changed the oil, drained the gas, replaced gas line, and rebuilt carb. It fired up nicely today. But the drive is not working because I think the friction wheel is too wore. That’s next.


----------



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Great start...you'll be running by next winter.....


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Your persistence paid off! Be careful... that old machine will grow on you!


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

I try to get my 10 year son involved in this. He asked “dad, when will you use this vs the newer Ariens and the Yamaha?” 
Me, “son, I don’t plan on using it.”
Son, “then why the heck are you fixing it then?”
Me, “for the challenge and for bonding with you”

May be I will wrong. May be I will use it. Will kee you guys posted.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Oh man, Upon closer inspection I realized the bearing housing is broken. Don’t know how I didn’t see that from the start. I was ready to give this up but luckily I found the whole bearing housing, belt disc and drive plate all for $46 on eBay. That’s next. Hope this doesn’t turn into a can of worms : ) or is that too late already?


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

For older Aries parts check with our forum member Jackmels first. He has a huge inventory of parts for them.....


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

More update. Took apart the drive gears, bearing housing, axle, etc. the bearing house was completely broken off all three points as you can see in the replacement part next to it.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

More work today


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Nice progress!

Have you checked the head for warp? 

it looks like it was spewing a bit...maybe just loose head bolts.










I typically dress them on an old boat windshield with sand paper.


----------



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

coming along nicely!


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Hi Classiccat,
What do you see this may suggest the head may be warp? I like to look into this further since I have all taken apart. Sorry, I have never done this before so it's all new to me, and I figured I have gone this far I may as well check on everything.
Thanks




classiccat said:


> Nice progress!
> 
> Have you checked the head for warp?
> 
> ...


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Macplee said:


> Hi Classiccat,
> What do you see this may suggest the head may be warp? I like to look into this further since I have all taken apart. Sorry, I have never done this before so it's all new to me, and I figured I have gone this far I may as well check on everything.
> Thanks


You have a little schmutz on the block right around the regions of the head gasket / mating surfaces that have discoloration. 

This doesn't look serious...it may have even been loose head bolts. 

in general, it's good practice to dress the head and install a new head gasket (_preferably one with a compression/fire ring ...if you can find one_) when you pull it for a decarb.

dressing the head consists of sanding the head on a flat surface (_I use a boat windshield_). Go to 18:27 in the following video for an example.
Video

Torque the head bolts to spec incrementally and in a crossing pattern (Tecumsehs are almost all 200 inch-lbs...*NOT foot pounds*!). Then retorque them after a few heating/cooling cycles.


----------



## renegade:32 (Jan 8, 2018)

Hey Mcplee- some guy (me), has all the original paperwork for that machine. 
If you’re interested- it’s all posted for sale over in the “Snowblower parts for sale” section of this forum. Or, just PM me for more details. 

R32


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

It's most noticeable on the head. Right at the one head bolt hole with the arrow you see the gasket surface to the left of the arrow fairly clean from being adequately sealed and then all the soot from the exhaust gas blowing past the gasket on the right side of the arrow.

.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

It has been months, and today I spent the entire day at the shop putting this oldie back together and painting it. Still have some ways to go but making progress.

Completely replace the drive disc (old one was broken off from all mounting points). Cleaned and lined all gears and chain, painted the while housing, wheels, and pull cord cover.


----------



## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Looks awesome!


----------



## Seaweed (Jan 18, 2016)

Nice job. Lot of work.


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Very nice! You're on the finishing stretch!


----------



## guzzijohn (Mar 31, 2014)

Just noticed your post. I have same beast in my herd. Finished 8/26 tracker so now maybe the '68 will be next project even though it is fine mechanically. What paint did you use? I still have some rustoleum "Pumpkin" left so?


----------



## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

Looks great! Which way is the clutch ball joint supposed to be? Mine is opposite of how yours is in the prior pic. Mine sticks out the left of the clutch release lever.


----------



## Bondo 287 (Jan 31, 2019)

@Macplee lookin good !


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Little more progress. Just need to repaint the chute, the belt cover and a few minor things. Then apply new replica stickers back onions fore her up.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

More pics


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

I can’t remember the paint, I will double check and post it next time.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

I took so many photos before i started disassembling it. I knew this would be a multi-months if not years project so I knew I would forget where things will need to go to put it back together. Good thing I did. I really had to review the photos again and again to make sure why something didn’t fit, missing clutter pins, etc. 

May be this is easy for someone who knows what they are doing, but I am just learning as I go so the before photos were really helpful.


----------



## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

Macplee said:


> May be this is easy for someone who knows what they are doing, but I am just learning as I go so the before photos were really helpful.


Don't be so hard on yourself. No one was born knowing this stuff, everyone had to do it for the first time, sometime.


----------



## flashingwood (Jan 2, 2018)

What method did you use to remove/clean the rust and grime on de bucket/ body of the snowblower ?
Did you remove all the paint down to bare metal or you repaint over the original paint ?

How did you paint the snowblower ( brush, paint gun or spray paint) ?
Do you have use primer and clear coat ?

I plan to do the same thing but with a 1986 mtd snowflite 8/26 !


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Hi Flashingwood,
I used a combination of wire brush by hand and on a drill, plus my bench grinder/polisher. The grinder with a wire brush worked extremely well on the smaller pieces. Takes everything out including the grime. The larger parts were wiped down with carb cleaner, wire brush, and light sanding for the new paint to stick.

Small parts were hung on wires inside the workshop and spray painted 3-4 coats, then another 2 coats of clear coating. I used a heat gun (carefully) to help with the drying process. It really helped as paint didn't want to stick to some really small spots but heating the ares helped. I suppose I should have used a primer.

The larger parts were more a paint. I took it apart as much as I could and sprayed it outside. Good


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

It's finally DONE!!!

Thank you, everyone, for all your advice and help. The project took a little longer than expected as it competed with other house projects as well. Overall, my 11-year-old son and I had a great time working on this together. I don't know if he learned or will retain much, but I enjoyed the bonding, and he now has a greater appreciation for fixing things and the workshop.

Again, this 1968 (could be 1966. It gets blurry) was given to me by a friend's neighbor. I was helping my friend with his snowblower then his neighbor came over asking if I fix snowblowers. I quickly say "no, just helping my friend." She seems disappointed, but then offer me this oldie for free. She told me it was a neighborhood hand me down, and it finally died last season. I was reluctant, but my friend convinced me to take it as a project.

First thing I did was try firing it up with some starter fluid. It started after many tried then immediately stalled. Nothing else worked. It was all locked up, couldn't even push it. I was shocked by how black and dirty the oil was when I pumped it out (see pics). Overall it was a great experience, and I learned a lot. A friend asked me if I could do the same for his old Ariens for him. I politely declined, as this is a hobby and not a business for me. I would lose money with parts and time. Plus I am not a pro and would not pretend to be one.

Attached are before/after photos along with a URL for the video slideshow.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Here are two more pics, including the paints I used. I remember someone asking about this from before.


----------



## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

This video slideshow is shorter and a good summary of the project. The longer video may help others doing the same things.


----------



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

great job on that MacPlee as good a restoration as I've seen...that machine is good for another 50 years....


----------



## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Macplee
Thanks for sharing your ariens restoration. Job well done! I like that you had fun with your son working together on a project that he will remember for ever! Thanks for all the details and photos.


----------

