# 8230



## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

Here are a few pics of my mildly molested 8230 with an 8hp Briggs. I was considering re-powering it with an 8 or 10hp Honda Knock off, but after a carb clean and some tuning it runs stronger than ever. I think I’ll wait for it throw a rod before replacing it. 
Other maintenance and mods for this year include repairing the lazy recoil, chute or impeller mod, replace the driven disc, update to a 30” plastic chute, and replace the belts. I was going to change the oils in the “transmission” and auger drive but they’re both filled with grease. Guessing they probably leaked a little at one time. 
I am also very interested in an electric start but a 120v seems pretty tough to find. A 12v starter would work too considering I’m nice to my stuff and keep it in a heated garage all winter. 

Anyway, I’ve owned it 8 or so years and it’s been virtually flawless. Can anyone tell me when it may have been built?


----------



## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

If the engine appears original, the numbers from it should tell the story.


----------



## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

nwcove said:


> If the engine appears original, the numbers from it should tell the story.




The numbers I can make out are:

Model: 190412 type: 1024 01
Code: can’t really read the code. Possibly a 6 or an 80053000


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i like that "mildly molested"

sounds like my childhood in the catholic church.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

orangputeh said:


> i like that "mildly molested"
> 
> sounds like my childhood in the catholic church.



Shame on you for blaming the church when you know it was your fault. 
I think I see Ariens skids on it :facepalm_zpsdj194qh

.


----------



## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

orangputeh said:


> i like that "mildly molested"
> 
> 
> 
> sounds like my childhood in the catholic church.




Maybe one day it’ll be completely worked over, but I feel like I should have a back up snowblower just in case something were to happen to this one. A guy can have two or more, right?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

What are you saying? There's guys out there with only one machine .... say it aint so !!


.


----------



## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

I thought about starting a new thread, but figured I’d just add to my existing thread. 

I’m officially ready for snow.. This years upkeep included replacing the auger shaft bearing, the brass bushings in the transmission drive disc, new Snow Hogs, Ariens poly skid shoes, an Ariens chute shovel, and drift cutters. The drift cutters aren’t really needed where I live, but for $8.00 in the clearance bin at Canadian Tire, I couldn’t resist. 
I had my driveway redone this summer so the old tires and chains had to go, along with the skid shoes.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

With all the work you've done to it might be time next summer to give it a coat of paint to freshen it up !! I'm not seeing where anyone answered your question of the year.

*How can I determine the age of my engine if it was made after 1965?*
The engine's code number indicates the exact date it was manufactured. This system provides an easy way to determine the age of your small engine.
The following is an example of interpreting the date for the code number 99011556:


The first two digits (99) denote the year of manufacture. In this case it is 1999.
The next two digits (01) are the month of the year, which is January.
The following two digits (15) are the day of the month. In this case the 15th.
The final two digits designate the plant and assembly line.
 
Therefore, this engine’s manufacture date was January 15, 1999.
In your case it's likely a 1980/81 machine.

I have two 1030's. One is a 120v start and one 12v start. They are very stout machines and are awfully heavy. Did you add the weights to the bucket or did it come to you that way? Hard to imagine one of these having a problem with the bucket riding up.

.


----------



## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> With all the work you've done to it might be time next summer to give it a coat of paint to freshen it up !! I'm not seeing where anyone answered your question of the year.
> 
> *How can I determine the age of my engine if it was made after 1965?*
> The engine's code number indicates the exact date it was manufactured. This system provides an easy way to determine the age of your small engine.
> ...





Kiss4aFrog said:


> With all the work you've done to it might be time next summer to give it a coat of paint to freshen it up !! I'm not seeing where anyone answered your question of the year.
> 
> *How can I determine the age of my engine if it was made after 1965?*
> The engine's code number indicates the exact date it was manufactured. This system provides an easy way to determine the age of your small engine.
> ...


Thanks for the info on the coding! So if I’m right on my numbers, it was manufactured May 30th, 1980. That’s pretty cool to know when it was built. 
This one would be a 12v start, but I’d like a 120v starter if I could find one. It’s babied and put away clean and dry all the time, so electric start isn’t really a necessity. 

As for the plates, yes, I welded them to the bucket. With the 8 horse, and only having a 23” bucket, it felt light on the front end and the bucket would walk up when I was trying move the windrow at the end of my driveway. It isn’t near as bad now. 

I might paint it next year, but if I do, it’ll have to be done right. Strip everything down and start from a bare chassis. That is a fairly time consuming project, but it might be doable. For now, I’m content with good maintenance and upkeep. There really isn’t much left to do, unless it throws rod unexpectedly, and then it should be a fairly straight forward re-power. I hope it doesn’t though, it runs very well.


----------



## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

dooitorbust said:


> Thanks for the info on the coding! So if I’m right on my numbers, it was manufactured May 30th, 1980. That’s pretty cool to know when it was built.
> This one would be a 12v start, but I’d like a 120v starter if I could find one. It’s babied and put away clean and dry all the time, so electric start isn’t really a necessity.
> 
> As for the plates, yes, I welded them to the bucket. With the 8 horse, and only having a 23” bucket, it felt light on the front end and the bucket would walk up when I was trying move the windrow at the end of my driveway. It isn’t near as bad now.
> ...


*I have the same exact machine as you. In fact my code on the motor has the same exact date/month of manufacture. Which leads to my question, you said "this one would be a 12v start". How or where do I buy a 12v starter for this machine? Thank you.*


----------



## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

Bob Jones said:


> *I have the same exact machine as you. In fact my code on the motor has the same exact date/month of manufacture. Which leads to my question, you said "this one would be a 12v start". How or where do I buy a 12v starter for this machine? Thank you.*


As far as I know, you don’t. This one was had the 12v start as an option, or came with it, but they aren’t made anymore that I could find. 
Cool that our machines are virtually identical. It’s been really good to me, but I also take good care of it.


----------



## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

dooitorbust said:


> As far as I know, you don’t. This one was had the 12v start as an option, or came with it, but they aren’t made anymore that I could find.
> Cool that our machines are virtually identical. It’s been really good to me, but I also take good care of it.


It's a little hard to pull start and right now it starts fine, has 85 compression, but it likes to shut off after 30-45 seconds and then it is hard to start. So, my back is starting to get aggravated.


----------



## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

Snapper 1-4299 Safety Instructions & Operator's Manual (Page 8 of 8) | ManualsLib







www.manualslib.com




v


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I really like the older built machines. The quality on them is usually far superior than what is produced on the new machines, although many do lack some of the safety features, which is fine with me, as I am used to running them that way.

That unit would be worthy of a complete restore for sure in my opinion.


----------



## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

It appears that my snowblower has the correct cut out for a starter? The question is can I find a starter that would fit. Any ideas?


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yes, as your picture reveals, there is a tooth flywheel on it, and that is ready for a starter ... just take the engine number and go online and see what starter went on that engine.

I looked quickly, and only see the 12V starter, not the 120V version... that means you would have to put a battery box, a battery and an ignition switch on it. Easier if you could locate a 120V starter. However, having a battery start would be nice, but then you probably need to keep the battery on a trickle charger or battery tender while in stand by or off season, which is really no problem.


----------



## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> Yes, as your picture reveals, there is a tooth flywheel on it, and that is ready for a starter ... just take the engine number and go online and see what starter went on that engine.
> 
> I looked quickly, and only see the 12V starter, not the 120V version... that means you would have to put a battery box, a battery and an ignition switch on it. Easier if you could locate a 120V starter. However, having a battery start would be nice, but then you probably need to keep the battery on a trickle charger or battery tender while in stand by or off season, which is really no problem.


It appears to be a 16 tooth gear. Could I just hook a 12v car battery charger to the terminals when I need to start it at the house?


----------



## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> Yes, as your picture reveals, there is a tooth flywheel on it, and that is ready for a starter ... just take the engine number and go online and see what starter went on that engine.
> 
> I looked quickly, and only see the 12V starter, not the 120V version... that means you would have to put a battery box, a battery and an ignition switch on it. Easier if you could locate a 120V starter. However, having a battery start would be nice, but then you probably need to keep the battery on a trickle charger or battery tender while in stand by or off season, which is really no problem.


I bought this one. 


Amazon.com


----------



## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

What motors are direct swaps for this? Would a predator 212 bolt on? Would an LCT 208cc from ebay?


----------

