# need connecting rod advice I ruined my 1128 tecumseh



## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

Hello,

I came across this forum recently to find a cure for some ills with my machine and did some maintenance.

In a fit of pure stupidity, I ruined the engine. I need to replace the connecting rod, and possibly related parts within a couple days. I changed oil and did not put enough in.

Will I need more than a connecting rod? I was throwing snow after I warmed it up first as always a couple minutes, and was doing light snow first till it was warm.

It stopped with a light ping, and i thought it was the newspaper in my driveway again, which was there.

With low oil, do you think I just need a rod? Any bearings involved? Did rings starve too?

So advice on what parts to overnight or pick up tomorrow, the crankcase that i can see looks ok.

Any special tools to remove flywheel?

I need to fix it before storm wednesday, so looking for advice on my plans:

I need to call around town tomorrow if connecting rod part #36897 is available. I looked at my amazon Prime account, but nothing listed. Can i weld it with a flux core welder?

All model numbers and details listed below 



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Details:

Looking for parts pickup in southern Maine or overnight shipping.

I have tools and experience long ago with rebuilding my '64 Corvair Turbo Spyder in 1970, a couple VW bus '61 era along with maintaining 20+ year old vehicles just to show my background.

I'm also in the Open Bench Project hackerspace in S. Portland, so have welding and other tools.

Ariens model st1128le
Tecumseh OHSK110-221735D This is on the engine sticker, and also in an insert to the instruction manual saying they had used a 11.5 hp engine vs the 11 hp one in the manual.
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Sob Story:
I needed to assure myself the machine would not fail, as I am not supposed to shovel at my age. 

After solving some traction drive problems with a couple drops of zoom spout oil on the drive disk shaft to prevent cold weather no drive, I buttoned it up. I had put a new friction disc and loveingly refurbed it last year.

In this forum I spent hours reading the debate wether to use synthetic or din oil, etc, and bought a quart of 10w-30 mobile 1.

Why? I really wanted to keep this machine new, I touch up paint, etc.

With the failed blizzard predicted for yesterday, i decided to put in a new bottle of dino 5-30, (not sure of using 10-30 synth) having used it for 12+ years, and not wanting to try something new during a blizzard.

In my recent readings I saw my engine took less oil than others, so when pouring it in I stopped when I thought half the bottle was in and was going to go by the dipstick a little at a time.

I pulled the dipstick, and it showed a hair over full. My recently cataract operated eyes were watering, and oil from the fill tube was running down the dipstick sides, so I left it for the blizzard.

Day of the non-blizzard, but plenty of drifts, I checked the dipstick first thing, it showed just a hair over the full mark.

Dipstick has a color or stain over the hashmarks, I thought it was full, but it was not. SO STUPID! be sure your eyes rag, etc show liquid oil on the stick, it was really dry as a bone. Maybe another oz or so would have shown a wet mark at the bottom… SOB!


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

I would look for a Harbor freight and pick up a 420cc Predator along with a 20% off coupon. It will be a huge upgrade in power and reliability over that old Tecumseh L-Head and it has battery electric start too. You will need a small ATV 12 volt battery to run the electric start. Sounds like you can turn a wrench so that is what I would do. Is the engine a dual shaft or single shaft engine? If single shaft it is a drop in easy replacement. If it is a dual shaft you have to make some modifications for it to work.


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

I did pick up a HF 301cc 9 minutes before closing, thinking I could get a 99.00 engine, but this one was 230 something, no coupon allowed unless with extended service plan. i bought it. I eyeballed the one you said at 400+.

My tecumseh is the overhead valve and always started on the first pull, even after summer storage. Never used the electric start. Deepest snow, it never changed RPM, I loved it. SOB!

If the one you say is a simple drop-in i will get it tomorrow, else I will look for a rod.

It has only one shaft output, two belts run off it. Maybe you were thinking of older 2 shaft stuff I also read about here.

Thanks for quick reply, I will get even helping others here as I've done on car forums for the younger folks.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

jh15 said:


> I did pick up a HF 301cc 9 minutes before closing, thinking I could get a 99.00 engine, but this one was 230 something, no coupon allowed unless with extended service plan. i bought it. I eyeballed the one you said at 400+.
> 
> My tecumseh is the overhead valve and always started on the first pull, even after summer storage. Never used the electric start. Deepest snow, it never changed RPM, I loved it. SOB!
> 
> ...


I have heard that the 301cc engines make really good power. I have heard of people using these engines to repower larger blowers. The Predator 212cc can handle up to a 26 inch bucket and I would know because my Repowered Montgomery Ward 8/26 (Gilson) works well with the Predator 212cc. The 301cc should compare very well to the original engines power output and should be just as easy to start or even easier to start then the OHV Tecumseh which often had buggy compression release mechanisms. Post a few pictures and a video of your repowered Ariens in action once you get it up and running.


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

I'm tired now, but i recall i think the shaft size and height are different when looking at the Predator 301 manual, otherwise I might have started on it tonight.


I think my predator 301 is 1.3" and my tecumseh is 1 inch.

I was planning on youtubing my efforts replacing the rod, as I was emboldened by watching a 2 part youtube on re-rodding a tecumseh, maybe without needing to behead it first as i was going to do per manual.

I'll credit the link when i can


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

jh15 said:


> I'm tired now, but i recall i think the shaft size and height are different when looking at the Predator 301 manual, otherwise I might have started on it tonight.
> 
> 
> I think my predator 301 is 1.3" and my tecumseh is 1 inch.
> ...


 The 301cc is 1" shaft by apprix 3.5  Must be rejetted properly to develop the power and run well in the cold, and shrouds should be made. Running any of these lean with factory jetting in the cold will not make you happy, and not be great for the engine either  . Open up both the main and pilot jets slightly and you will be a happy camper without surging, ect. I am very happy with mine but spent some time on it, but it paid off. Good luck whichever route you take. I *think* the 420cc is also 1"shaft but don't quote me check yourself to make sure. 

BTW, I bought it for 239 and used the coupon, which brought it down to 192. I just handed the coupon to the checkout person and they took it. 20%. Early January. Did they change the policy in the last month ?


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

HF is the quickest route to go if you need it running in a few days...Any TEC with internal damage needs to be looked over carefully, avoid a slap together job or you'll be sorry


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Welcome to SBF jh15! 

So sorry for the loss of a good engine!  You're really between a rock & a hard place considering these weather patterns.

You won't know the extent of the damage until you crack her open. There aren't any bearings...just the rod riding on the crank. Best case you're only out a rod...which can be had for ~ 45 bucks. The risk as you're aware that there's also damage to the rings/bore & crank...then the cost starts approaching/exceeding that of a new clone motor...and you're down for possibly weeks waiting for parts. 

Repower & keep the Tecumseh as a side project?


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

Pull it apart and take a look at it, usually the rod punches a hole in the side of the block behind the electric starter, occasionally you get lucky and it doesn't. Sometimes it cracks up into the cylinder or the sump cover, in these cases the engine is ruined. If it's just a hole in the middle of the block it can be patched with some fine wire mesh and JB Weld. You'll need to clean up the crank journal where the old rod transferred aluminum to the cast iron journal. Do this with some sand paper or emery cloth, finish with something super fine. Then replace the rod.


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

Thanks for replies. In bed with cold will check for hole, if none try to get rod locally, see if my In-hand 301cc or other predator will fit first just in case.

Are jets adjustable? Don't want to void extended warranty.

Will the little 99 dollar engine, 212cc work ok?

I never used the 120v starter, but I may rig up a bicycle light and battery pack for the heated handles later.

To minimise cold exposure any others welcome to chip in.

I can't find height or diameter of my 11.5hp ohsk110 output shaft in manual.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Jets need to be replaced or drilled. I picked up a set of drills on Ebay for just such an occasion as I had a couple that still hunted for idle even after being cleaned. The newer non adjustable carbs are just so lean ...

Jet kit for Honda Clone engines


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

jh15 said:


> Thanks for replies. In bed with cold will check for hole, if none try to get rod locally, see if my In-hand 301cc or other predator will fit first just in case.
> 
> Are jets adjustable? Don't want to void extended warranty.
> 
> ...


Here are the engine specs for the ohsk90-110:









Crankshaft dimensions:


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

jh15 said:


> Thanks for replies. In bed with cold will check for hole, if none try to get rod locally, see if my In-hand 301cc or other predator will fit first just in case.
> 
> Are jets adjustable? Don't want to void extended warranty.
> 
> ...


How wide is your Snowblower ' s bucket? If it is greater than 26 inches I would use only the bigger engine. Plus your used to a larger engine anyways so bigger is almost always better. There is no replacement for displacement.


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

Thanks for the dimensions.

bucket is 28"

Update on my status: Removed starter, and underneath is a crack in case, no hole, and was wet with a couple oil drops.

so maybe jb weld, a rod, and cleaning aluminum off shaft with muriatic acid or lye is an option.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

In addition to JB weld there are aluminum brazing rods you can use. It is basically a stick of solder that you put on with a propane torch similar to doing plumbing.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

jh15 said:


> Thanks for the dimensions.
> 
> bucket is 28"
> 
> ...



You made the right choice with the 301cc engine. Plus heavy wet snow weighs more and an under worked engine is better than an over worked one. Overkill with power is a good thing when blowing snow.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

JH... the 212cc has 3/4 inch shaft and it's shorter but can be adapted. I used the 301cc since the shaft was the same as old my 8hp engine I removed. I opened up the existing jet a little at a time. I did a thread on the repower last month. 

Link: 
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-824-predator-301cc-repower-finally-done.html

If you need any info that's not there hit me up I'll try to help. Hope you get rid of that cold.


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

Kiss4afrog, do i order the jets and drill them out? Sounds good so if warranty problem i could put the originals back in.

pathfinder, the shaft shown on above dimension shows my total shaft from engine front is about 5.75 inches. the 301cc predator is 3.48" and is about .4" higher. not sure of lateral position yet. Will now look at the bigger and smaller predator dimensions.

HMM all the Predators with 1" shaft are all 3.5" vs 5.75 on the original. edit: tec original is not 5.75"

So cold to go poking at the thing outside, wonder if engine can be mounted closer to the pulley area...

Can't find a local place for 36897 rod, saw one on ebay with the correct number for 10 thou oversize piston attached. I'm confused about 36897 vs 36897a, maybe different wrist pin size or something.

I don't have anything to bore the cylinder oversize, and still haven't opened the engine.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I am not sure about all Tecumseh parts, but usually a letter at the end just indicates an upgraded revision. It is that way with the 120v starters. You can find them from no letter to something like G.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

jh15 said:


> Kiss4afrog, do i order the jets and drill them out? Sounds good so if warranty problem i could put the originals back in.


I'm not sure I'd worry about it but that would be the "belt and suspenders" way of doing it. If it was to explode on you I really doubt they'd be measuring the ID of the jet. More likely they'd be checking the governor and if it was low on oil. But 

I just drill mine but I don't have any warranty to worry about. With a little research you can likely order the right size replacements as you're not the first to re-power a winter project with that engine so the appropriate jet size should be out there.

Or you can get an assortment of sizes.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

JH the illustration above has the length at 2.98 ( I think, it's burry but that's what it looks like) so not sure where you got your numbers but look again ..

301cc would have to mount further back I believe , which means drilling new holes and checking for rear clearance in the area of chute controls and handlebars. What machine are you working on ? large chassis or compact ? name and model ?


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

everything is in my first post but: ariens st1128le. 11.5 HP tecumseh ohsk110-221735D. 28" electric start, never needed it.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

nice large chassis should be no problem at all ;-)


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

jh15 said:


> everything is in my first post but: ariens st1128le. 11.5 HP tecumseh ohsk110-221735D. 28" electric start, never needed it.



That's why it's nice to have it in your signature. The longer a thread gets the less likely someone is going all the way back to the beginning. Makes it easier on you and us


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

I agree, When I joined, I looked for that in my profile setup. I'll, look into it again soon.

Finished my card stock mockup, maybe some pics tonight.


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

put the cardboard mockup on the chassis, and it looks like if I line the driveshaft up like the original, the bolt holes are hanging in space on the passenger side.

Now to pursue getting a rod.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

jh15 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I came across this forum recently to find a cure for some ills with my machine and did some maintenance.
> 
> ...


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## jh15 (Feb 16, 2015)

Great White, I know the rod is needed, in the meantime, I am finding out I may be wasting time on fitting a square peg in a round hole. 

I have been planning on opening the tec, but have limited space, 0 degree temps to work on, the worst cold I have had in a decade.

If I'm lucky the rod will be the only problem, it did stop with a not so loud clank, not like it was banging around for awhile. The case is cracked, not holed, so I can use gas or electric welders at the hackerspace.

I also wasted time planning to travel for a used CL blower exactly like mine but was scooped from under me.

I don't want to mount the engine until I know if the centered shaft vs. the original off center shaft can be compensated for, do you know? Longer belts?

Also interference to the chute crankshaft needs to be found.

The simpler stuff to me would be adding heating plenum to carb, jets, even a custom belt housing, etc.

I can barely move after shoveling several feet of frozen old snow the plows left when scraping back the packed snow from the frozen banks.

I ordered the 36897a rod. Somewhere I read there are wrist pin differences and a new piston is needed. Elsewhere it is said the 36897a is same as 36897, do you know?

Thanks
jh


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

jh15 said:


> Great White, I know the rod is needed, in the meantime, I am finding out I may be wasting time on fitting a square peg in a round hole.
> 
> I have been planning on opening the tec, but have limited space, 0 degree temps to work on, the worst cold I have had in a decade.
> 
> ...


That broken engine is not going anywhere. I would use the 301cc Predator to repower it and put the Tecumseh into the corner and look at in in the spring. Beside I think you will really enjoy the Predator engine once you have it on the machine. Get it repowered so you can take care of all that snow.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm for repowering or a new used machine before going through the tech engine under the circumstnces you've outlined. A new used machine takes the stress off your body from shoveling and buys you time. You can choose to go through the tech, sell the tech or sell the whole machine to someone else for their project. If not repair, repower the broken Ariens and sell one off next fall when you'll get better $$ for it.
Just a thought.


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## Loco-diablo (Feb 12, 2015)

jh15 said:


> I agree, When I joined, I looked for that in my profile setup. I'll, look into it again soon.


I still can't figure out how to edit signature.


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## dmark (Mar 6, 2014)

Loco-diablo said:


> I still can't figure out how to edit signature.


Signature: Click on "Upgrade My Membership" then look to the left hand column; I accidently discovered that.


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## Loco-diablo (Feb 12, 2015)

thanks dmark!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

__________________
2010 Ariens Deluxe 27 (921012)
250cc B&S (1150 ft lbs) 



Now you're cooking


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

jh15 said:


> If I'm lucky the rod will be the only problem, it did stop with a not so loud clank, not like it was banging around for awhile. The case is cracked, not holed, so I can use gas or electric welders at the hackerspace.


Normally the only internal part that breaks is the rod. Use JB Weld on the block. It's hard to weld aluminum that's somewhat oil impregnated. You can clean it up really well and try, but I think you're more likely melt a hole in it. JB Weld works well as long as you clean everything up well, there's no oil pressure so there isn't a lot working against it.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

94EG8 said:


> Normally the only internal part that breaks is the rod. Use JB Weld on the crank. It's hard to weld aluminum that's somewhat oil impregnated. You can clean it up really well and try, but I think you're more likely melt a hole in it. JB Weld works well as long as you clean everything up well, there's no oil pressure so there isn't a lot working against it.


He means block, not crank.


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

Shryp said:


> He means block, not crank.


Yes I did


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