# New to me Sno-Thro 7HP 32" bucket not running properly Question and photos



## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

My neighbors were so impressed with my '66 6hp 24" vintage Ariens that one asked me to grab one for her. 

I found what I thought was a pretty good one, 1970-71 7HP with 32" bucket. It was missing the choke handle and a screw here and there but started quickly and ran forward and back, and the auger and impeller ran. The price was decent so I grabbed it.

The problem is that when we went to use it this morning it would start and run fine for about 3-5 minutes and would throw snow but then would die and would be very hard to pull start. It would back fire and nearly jerk the cord out of your hand. We ended up using my 24" machine to clear the neighborhood. When I got the machine home it ran fine for 5-10 minutes with my neighbor learning to operate it. One added piece of information. When he was parking the machine he drove it to the parking spot then moved the transmission into reverse without the clutch all the way in and jammed the clutch. I had to turn the machine upside down to unjam the clutch and and it was hard to start after being upside down.... Also to unjam the clutch, I worked at relieving the pressure while my neighbor operated the clutch handle until it moved freely...

Any thoughts on trouble shooting the machine?

I am attaching photos.


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## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

Check compression. Check for spark after it is warm and hard to start. Could be carbon build up on valves. These are common issues. Also the carbs are finnicky on these. 

Worst case would be a repower (this would actually be the best case for many around here, myself included).

You have a coveted 32" auger so I would definitely take the time to sort it out. The 6 hp flathead might not be enough to run a 32" bucket well. A 6.5 hp predator ironically would do it just fine.


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

Thank you for the reply. I just read the thread on the draining oil prior to inverting the machine. We did not drain the oil or shut off the valve to the carb.

It has spark. If you let it sit a bit it will fire first pull without the choke but it will not stay running and will be hard to start after it dies. It will start with the electric start but with the same symptoms.

The motor is a 7HP

Motor 
model no H70-130067
Serial no 0324 06121


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

junkyard_sal said:


> If you let it sit a bit it will fire first pull without the choke but it will not stay running and will be hard to start after it dies. It will start with the electric start but with the same symptoms.


Sal, how long does it stay running? 3-5 minutes as stated in the first post, or only for a few seconds?


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## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

Sounds like a fuel restriction. It's a possibility that your carb is not filling fast enough to keep up with demand.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

It's not consistent with backfiring and jerking the cord from your hand, admittedly. But if the gas cap's vent is plugged, you could get a machine that would start OK, then die after a while, once the gas tank draws a vacuum by being unable to vent. 

Loosen the gas cap and see if anything changes. If it will keep running, clean/replace the gas cap. 

It's probably not this, admittedly. But it's easy to check, so why not?


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

WestminsterFJR said:


> Sal, how long does it stay running? 3-5 minutes as stated in the first post, or only for a few seconds?


It runs 3-5 minutes. Usually the first pull after it dies is very hard, jerking your arm with recoil or piston pressure. It seems if it sits then it restarts naturally and pull starts easily. 

It does not choke down and die, it just dies. Then does not want to start right away but will start on one pull after a minute or two. 

So there are two issues, the machine dies and exhibits a hard pull on restart occasionally. I believe that it is hydrolocked and when I get home from my business trip I will pull the spark plug and pull the cord to evacuate any oil/fuel from the head. But even this theory does not fully hold water since it will restart.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

junkyard_sal said:


> It runs 3-5 minutes. Usually the first pull after it dies is very hard, jerking your arm with recoil or piston pressure. It seems if it sits then it restarts naturally and pull starts easily.
> 
> It does not choke down and die, it just dies. Then does not want to start right away but will start on one pull after a minute or two.
> 
> So there are two issues, the machine dies and exhibits a hard pull on restart occasionally. I believe that it is hydrolocked and when I get home from my business trip I will pull the spark plug and pull the cord to evacuate any oil/fuel from the head. But even this theory does not fully hold water since it will restart.


The 3-5 minutes behavior sounds like the exhaust valve lash is too small. As the motor warms up, the exhaust valve does not close completely and looses compression. Once it cools down, the clearance returns which allows the valve to close completely again. I just grind the exhaust valves on 3 out of 5 H60/H55's this weekend. All the intakes were fine. So based on my small data point of 5 motors, it seems like it's pretty common for the exhaust valve to go out of spec on these Tecs. The required lash for the exhaust is 0.012".

As for the hard pull (rope pulling out of my hand), that occurred on one of my engines when the float was not seating and was flooding the engine. It hasn't done it since the float issue was corrected. Do you see fuel leaking out of the carb when attempting to start?


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

How much does the head work cost? 

I am suspecting that when the machine was inverted that something went wrong with the carb and it is flooding the machine creating a kind of hydrolock on the hard pull. Could that also be killing the machine? It does not smell rich when running but I am away on a business trip now and can not investigate until Friday. I appreciate the brainstorming. We were all impressed with the machine when it was running. The added 8" is significant in the swatch cut and it threw snow as well as my 24" machine.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

when you say 'inverted', did you tip the machine forward onto the bucket? or actually upside down with the wheels facing up?


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## bosco659 (Feb 1, 2013)

Jerking the starter rope out of your hand is usually related to the timing being off. May have sheared a flywheel key and the timing may now be too far advanced. This may explain the kickback but you probably have other issues related to the machine not running properly.


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## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

bosco659 said:


> Jerking the starter rope out of your hand is usually related to the timing being off. May have sheared a flywheel key and the timing may now be too far advanced. This may explain the kickback but you probably have other issues related to the machine not running properly.


If the key was sheared that would change the "ignition" timing. It should pull over all the same. The relationship between the crank and the cam should remain the same.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

But if it fires the plug too early while the piston is coming up for the compression stroke, that could make it kick back, no? 

A useful test might be to remove the spark plug wire after it dies, and pull the cord, see how it feels. If it kicks back, you have too much compression (could be a few causes). If it doesn't, it might be ignition-related. Re-connect the plug, pull the cord again, and see if it feels different. 

WestminsterFJR, I had to grind down one of the valves of my flathead HMSK80 (I don't recall which it was offhand) as the clearance was too small.


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

My neighbor put the machine all the way over while I was getting tools, not sure what he was looking forand I put the machine on the bucket. So a bit of both. I am going to pull the spark plug and see what comes out when I pull the cord. I will drain the oil and do an oil change while I am working on the machine. Rebuilding the carb should probably be on the list and maybe fixing the broken choke lever, ....... I always intended to service the machine fully prior to turning it over to the neighbor. I guess I never realized how mechanically defecient the average American can be in our current society, it might only be correlation but it seems like he managed to mess things up pretty good in a short 5 minutes with the machine.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Yeah most people these days don't own a shovel or a rake. They have to pay for everything. But thats what keeps us working.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

junkyard_sal said:


> The problem is that when we went to use it this morning it would start and run fine for about 3-5 minutes and would throw snow but then would die and would be very hard to pull start. It would back fire and nearly jerk the cord out of your hand.


My guess is the condenser is getting old and failing when it gets hot. I would change the condenser (capactor), & points. 

I guess the magneto could also be failing when it gets hot and kill the engine. 

Backfiring indicates that engine timing is off. I guess it's possible that one of the ignition components could be off enough to change timing. Nonetheless, I would still pop in a new set of points and capactor. I'm almost willing to bet money that's your problem.

In case you don't have it, here's a link to the Tecumseh L-Head Service Manual:
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf

Ariens Owners Manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/79600A.pdf

Ariens Part & Repair Manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/PRM-10000.pdf


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

If the flywheel key is sheared, or partially sheared, wouldn't the altered timing affect the way it runs when it does start? For exampling, a lot of popping or backfiring?


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

WestminsterFJR said:


> If the flywheel key is sheared, or partially sheared, wouldn't the altered timing affect the way it runs when it does start? For exampling, a lot of popping or backfiring?


it's been my (very limited) experience, that when a key is sheared, it will either not start at all, or run very poorly, sputtering, backfiring, etc. It will not start, run good for five minutes and then fail. Generally, that's the sign of a capacitor opening under heat.


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## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

enigma-2 said:


> it's been my (very limited) experience, that when a key is sheared, it will either not start at all, or run very poorly, sputtering, backfiring, etc. It will not start, run good for five minutes and then fail. Generally, that's the sign of a capacitor opening under heat.


The best way to check for this is with a spark gap tester. you should be able to jump a 1/4' gap with a strong blue spark.


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

This is an old thread but an ongoing theme. Due to racecar building and racing I neglected this unit until yesterday when I wanted to use it. 

It seemed to run fine when I started it and put it in a garage. I ran it for over 20 minutes in that test at 40 degree weather. Yesterday however, I found a stuck throttle cable. so stuck that it would not move at all so I pulled the cover and manually adjusted the throttle to start the unit. I then fixed it at Wide open once the unit was warm. 

Here is the real problem, the unit seemed to spit oil out of a vent tube located off the head and on the same side as the carb and choke....

It ran but spit oil. I added half a quart of oil divided into two checks with the unit running roughly ten minutes each time. It threw snow reasonably well but I knew I might be looking at a repower in the worst case. 

Any thoughts? I am leaning toward a repower and selling the unit. since I have a good running 26" unit but unfortunately it is at our cabin in PA during this storm.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

If was tilted too much or towards carb it can cause oil to fill the venting cavity and once running cause like a 'pumping' action that almozst acts like it is pumping oil out the vent tube. Usually sitting day takes care of it but might need to clean the area out and clean the venting part the tube goes too.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

junkyard_sal said:


> *Yesterday however, I found a stuck throttle cable. so stuck that it would not move at all so I pulled the cover and manually adjusted the throttle to start the unit. I then fixed it at Wide open once the unit was warm. *


It sounds like you were overriding the governor by fixing the throttle at WOT...Over-revving the engine will cause oil to pour out of that breather tube and eventually grenade the engine. The throttle butterfly should be barely off of the idle-speed screw @ no-load/high-speed.

Get that governor / throttle control squared away (_MMO on all of the moving parts/springs_) and throw a tach on there. I set my tecs to 3500 when warm.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

scipper77 said:


> Check compression. Check for spark after it is warm and hard to start. Could be carbon build up on valves. These are common issues. Also the carbs are finnicky on these.
> 
> Worst case would be a repower (this would actually be the best case for many around here, myself included).
> 
> You have a coveted 32" auger so I would definitely take the time to sort it out. The 6 hp flathead might not be enough to run a 32" bucket well. A 6.5 hp predator ironically would do it just fine.


excuse me for saying, but this may be as minor as a spark plug or set of points ? the solution to a simple tuneup, isn't a $150 repower every time. if you took your car in for an oil change, what if the mechanic said you needed a new engine ? I don't want to sound like a bully here, but you're giving the guy some very POOR ADVICE if for every little engine run problem, the fix is "repower" with a new engine.
question- if the new engine doesn't start next year, should he "repower" it again with another $99 engine ? this is starting to sound silly already. that machine looks pristine, and usually it's just a carb problem. a repower isn't going to fix a jammed clutch.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

junkyard_sal said:


> Thank you for the reply. I just read the thread on the draining oil prior to inverting the machine. We did not drain the oil or shut off the valve to the carb.
> 
> It has spark. If you let it sit a bit it will fire first pull without the choke but it will not stay running and will be hard to start after it dies. It will start with the electric start but with the same symptoms.
> 
> ...


 when you flipped it upside down to unjam the clutch, it may have hydraulic locked the cylinder with oil or gas, I've done that a few times myself, then when you try to pullstart it, the cord pulls out of your hand with resistance.

if you have spark, then it's the carb. you can get a carb kit for about $15. that machine is a real beast, I have a 8/32 like that and I can drive it right through the back yard in deep snow with chains. 

it makes no sense to repower it, as the Predator engine has less HP than that Tec. 7HP has, you'd be downgrading the machine in power.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

*agree..*

I agree with GWB- Don't give up on the tec- you'll get it.. and it will serve you well. I'd change oil and go from there.


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

I did not think about the WOT causing it to vent oil but it was a new symptom for the machine. I took the vent cover off and it was full of oil. I cleaned it up and the throttle cable was not stuck so I put everything back together and it ran pretty good even in wet snow. It did not consume much oil at all.

I checked the oil level every ten minutes yesterday when it was venting. I discovered a few other things that have been jury rigged on the machine including a burned up spark cable that is held on with tension. Simple fix.

I am hoping it did not run low on oil. In three adds it has taken 1/2-2/3 of a pint so that seem okay. Now the electric start is not working but it is pull starting easily. I clearly need a service manual or I am just guessing and pulling stunts like yesterday running at WOT.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

junkyard_sal said:


> I did not think about the WOT causing it to vent oil but it was a new symptom for the machine. I took the vent cover off and it was full of oil. I cleaned it up and the throttle cable was not stuck so I put everything back together and it ran pretty good even in wet snow. It did not consume much oil at all.
> 
> I checked the oil level every ten minutes yesterday when it was venting. I discovered a few other things that have been jury rigged on the machine including a burned up spark cable that is held on with tension. Simple fix.
> 
> I am hoping it did not run low on oil. In three adds it has taken 1/2-2/3 of a pint so that seem okay. Now the electric start is not working but it is pull starting easily. I clearly need a service manual or I am just guessing and pulling stunts like yesterday running at WOT.


yep, see page 78 in the l-head service manual.

I had a stuck governor spool and that thing ran like a banshee for a few seconds until I cut it..sounded like a 2-stroke. I was fortunate not to catch a rod in my face. There was a pool of oil below the breather after that fiasco.


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

classiccat said:


> yep, see page 78 in the l-head service manual.
> 
> I had a stuck governor spool and that thing ran like a banshee for a few seconds until I cut it..sounded like a 2-stroke. I was fortunate not to catch a rod in my face. There was a pool of oil below the breather after that fiasco.



Well I did not grenade the motor and I was careful not to let it vent oil to the point of it being low on oil but it was not the smartest thing I have done......

I don't think I hear any rod knock. Should I leak down the motor or compression test it? That won't tell me the condition of the rod bearings. I agree that an oil change might tell me the most, if there is metal in the oil then time to remove and rebuild before I throw a rod.

I hate to repower with a 6.5hp motor but it might let me tear down the Tec in a leisurely manner and rebuild it or inspect it.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

A couple more things is may be and also worth checking are: Might be the dreaded gas cap-gone-bad. Try loosening it and run it see if it still does it. Also if the fuel line looks old remember it will most likely be worse on the inside due to ethanol,  could be restricting flow,change it for only a few bucks it may solve it.


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## CAPTAINCONSUMER (Feb 18, 2011)

*I re-powered one of these.....*

I picked up one of these in Buffalo in '13. Great machine! Clears down to the pavement.....but..

A 32" bucket is a lot for a 7 HP engine. My machine worked but it shook assorted screws, bolts, etc... loose and used oil. I put a B&S 15.5 (11.5 HP?) on it that works great. NOS Tec engines are still available at Small Engine Wharehouse and would probably be a straight bolt on job.

If you change the drive disc on this unit you will find that is a tougher job than re-powering. 

The "differential" feature makes these machines a dream to manuever.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

junkyard_sal said:


> Well I did not grenade the motor and I was careful not to let it vent oil to the point of it being low on oil but it was not the smartest thing I have done......
> 
> I don't think I hear any rod knock. Should I leak down the motor or compression test it? That won't tell me the condition of the rod bearings. I agree that an oil change might tell me the most, if there is metal in the oil then time to remove and rebuild before I throw a rod.
> 
> I hate to repower with a 6.5hp motor but it might let me tear down the Tec in a leisurely manner and rebuild it or inspect it.


It may be just fine. There aren’t any bearings on the rod; it rides on the crank so there may have been some material transfer. Inspecting the crank / rod journal isn’t too big of a job. Be sure to grab a new crankcase gasket in advance…just in case you tear-up the exiting one pulling-off the cover. 

Leakdown test is preferred over a compression test.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Does the electric motor spin but not the engine or is it dead when you try to use it ??


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

It spins but does not engage the motor. From the looks of that starter, it does not move in and out to engage the flywheel so I am guessing that it spins with the motor. If that is the case, then running the motor at WOT might have burned up the starter or sheared teeth. It sounds like the starter is spinning. 

Simple to examine. Thank you. 



Kiss4aFrog said:


> Does the electric motor spin but not the engine or is it dead when you try to use it ??
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW2FIqGCW3c


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That's good as it's likely just dried up lube on the shaft the gear slides on. If it can't slide out to engage the engine it just spins like crazy.
If you watch the video you can see how it works and it's just a matter of doing a little cleaning and then either oil it as some do or use a little synthetic grease to keep it sliding smoothly.
I like using Mobil1 grease.


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> That's good as it's likely just dried up lube on the shaft the gear slides on. If it can't slide out to engage the engine it just spins like crazy.
> If you watch the video you can see how it works and it's just a matter of doing a little cleaning and then either oil it as some do or use a little synthetic grease to keep it sliding smoothly.
> I like using Mobil1 grease.


I plan to look at this over the weekend.


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

The snow got here before I could look over the starter motor but I think I have the problem figured out. Anyway, It took a few pulls to start the machine but after I got it started it ran for over two hours clearing snow.

The throttle cable froze in the on position this time so I had to pull the spark plug to kill it and in the end I stopped using it because the clutch spring for the drive belt broke. 

One question in two hours it used about a 4 oz of oil, is that normal or excessive?


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

A good example of Murphy's Law. Probably age, and neglect, but highly redeemable. Hopefully you can get through the rest of the winter, and have a warm weather project.
Sid


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## Prof100 (Feb 9, 2015)

junkyard_sal said:


> The snow got here before I could look over the starter motor but I think I have the problem figured out. Anyway, It took a few pulls to start the machine but after I got it started it ran for over two hours clearing snow.
> 
> The throttle cable froze in the on position this time so I had to pull the spark plug to kill it and in the end I stopped using it because the clutch spring for the drive belt broke.
> 
> One question in two hours it used about a 4 oz of oil, is that normal or excessive?


 4 oz. of oil is a lot of oil to consume.


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

Prof100 said:


> 4 oz. of oil is a lot of oil to consume.


It might have been less but it seemed like it used enough to read just above the low mark when finished. But it was not throwing it out the vent. 

How easy is it to get a rebuild kit for the 7hp Tec? I would rebuild it this summer because the machine ran like a champ

I think rebuilt this will be a great machine. It has clearly been neglected. 

Does anyone know the proper size and spec of the bolts that hold the starter to the block and the front outer belt cover that protects the drive belt?


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

junkyard_sal said:


> The snow got here before I could look over the starter motor but I think I have the problem figured out. Anyway, It took a few pulls to start the machine but after I got it started it ran for over two hours clearing snow.
> 
> The throttle cable froze in the on position this time so I had to pull the spark plug to kill it and in the end I stopped using it because the clutch spring for the drive belt broke.
> 
> One question in two hours it used about a 4 oz of oil, is that normal or excessive?


 
if someone put cheap, thin mineral oil in the machine, it will use it like that. try 10-30 synthetic Amsoil. if the machine was sitting a long time, the rings may be stuck, and you may have to run it a while to get them un-stuck. Rislone used to make a really good motor flush that got stuck rings loose.

you can buy a new throttle cable that is factory sealed against seizure due to corrosion/moisture, they are online on Ebay for around $8. or, take that one off, and soak it in PB blaster, and work it back/forth to free it up.

there is also a used cable on Ebay for an Ariens, for sale





 

oops too late, this one sold already

8 HP Ariens Snowblower Throttle Linkage | eBay


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## junkyard_sal (Feb 20, 2014)

Is this all I need to rebuild the motor. 






The bolts for the starter motor were not the proper bolt and they were shaking out. Actually they completely shook out so I removed the starter motor.


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## Prof100 (Feb 9, 2015)

Like GWB said. You should change the oil. I don't support the need for synthetic. My 1983 Honda uses non-synthetic and it is doing just fine. However, the cost of synthetic for snow blower is not that much.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

For the extra two or three bucks for a synthetic I much prefer the synthetic when I'm pull starting my engines and it's below zero. Keep an eye out for one of the auto parts stores to have a sale and get their house brand or Walmart is usually cheap.


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## toroused (Mar 1, 2015)

Mmmm...are you sure some flipper did not previously swap out the engine and/or the bucket on this machine? I'm never heard of a 7/32 - even 8/32's were rare growing up. Furthermore, the motors on the 8/32 Ariens always burnt out quicker growing up than other Ariens configurations. 10/32 subsequently always became the norm on a 32" bucket...


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

My Ariens ?? It's a Model 10954 and the serial number is missing but when I run that model it comes up to a 7HP tractor and I'm pretty sure I remember seeing this was available with the 32" blower. 7hp back in '69 was a good size engine compared to the 3hp ones that were going on mowers.

The engine is so dirty I have to think it's original 
Could it be original as purchased, yup. Could the bucket have been switched, yup. I have no way of telling but I sure would like to put a bigger engine on it when I start to reassemble it.

The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

Prof100 said:


> Like GWB said. You should change the oil. I don't support the need for synthetic. My 1983 Honda uses non-synthetic and it is doing just fine. However, the cost of synthetic for snow blower is not that much.


I want to tell you something, it's important, let me explain. the differences are day and night between synthetic and mineral oil. 
just changing the oil to synthetic in these small engines, makes a world of difference. I've done only that to machines when first purchased, and listening closely before/after just changing to synthetic. it runs 10x better.

and there's more. recently I bought my wife a used 2008 Pontiac G6, with a V6 3.5 liter engine. it used oil from the get go, but didn't smoke, or leak. 

so I had to add 2 quarts of oil in about a month or so.

after I added the synthetic, it STOPPED using oil.

one more thing...synthetic is harder for an engine to actually burn. one time we were burning some trash and rubbish from cleaning up an empty wooded lot. I brought along some drain oil that was Amsoil synthetic with 25,000 miles on it. it REFUSED to burn. it actually was putting the fire out, because it has such a high flash point. hard to believe but true. 

my old 1982 Ford truck 400M/4 speed, that's all I put in it, is Amsoil synthetic drain oil from my cars, after it's run 25,000 miles in the cars- and the truck doesn't smoke at all. that's how good that stuff is. you can re-use it indefinitely, if you can get the oil clean again by filtering it.

of course if it LEAKS oil, that's another story...


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## Prof100 (Feb 9, 2015)

greatwhitebuffalo said:


> I want to tell you something, it's important, let me explain. the differences are day and night between synthetic and mineral oil.
> just changing the oil to synthetic in these small engines, makes a world of difference. I've done only that to machines when first purchased, and listening closely before/after just changing to synthetic. it runs 10x better.
> 
> and there's more. recently I bought my wife a used 2008 Pontiac G6, with a V6 3.5 liter engine. it used oil from the get go, but didn't smoke, or leak.
> ...


 I am glad you like Amsoil. It sounds like it has worked for you. You better tell Amsoil about your discovery. Per their specs Amsoil does have a flash point (434 F) and fire point (464 F). 

Scroll down on the attached link to see the specs of Amsoil synthetic:
AMSOIL SAE 5W-30 OE Synthetic Motor Oil


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