# What Relacement Engine?



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

HI, On my 10M4 model, which is a 4HP Tecumseh from I believe 1965? Current engine model is H40550-46F. I was considering replacing with the B&S # 12A113-0138 , with the ¾” x 2 5/16” shaft. Any comments would be helpful. (Rings are shot in current engine)


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

This might help answer your question.
Outdoor Power Equipment Repower from Small Engine Warehouse
That Briggs you mention is one of the suggested replacement engines for the model 10M6D.

One of our members, sscotsman, is an authority on Ariens snowblowers, and has a web site dedicated to them.
http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/
Including a page about re-powering them.
http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/Page10.html


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I ordered the above engine and received it today. Well packed and great price! I'll keep you all updated on progress with conversion along with photos in the future.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Here are the photos of the engine replacement process. 

BTW: I have found a great lubricant for these machines as well as other stuff that works great. I use it at work. It is sold by NAPA Auto parts stores and comes in an spray can called Chain and Cable Lube. Use it on the chains, gears and any other place you have metal contact or movement. _*Just make sure you do not get it on rubber drive gear or its plate counterpart underneath or on any belts or pulleys. Certainly do not want slippage here.*_


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Looks like the engine swap went well. Thanks for the pictures. Have you had a chance to try it out yet?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update: Yes I put in Gas and the synthetic 5w-30w oil. Electric start fired it up immediately and it runs real smooth. I kinda like the auto throttle whereas you don't have to fuss with any adjustments. I leave my other ones at full throttle anyways. The only thing I am used to doing is idling it down first before shutting it off, but if B&S built it this way, I'm sure it is just fine. One thing I noticed is with the synthetic oil on a yellow dipstick it is very hard to read because it is so clear an oil.

I spent the next hour showing the wife how to operate it. She ran it years ago and picked right up on it. _*Always stressing SAFETY*_


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## plowman (Jan 16, 2011)

Oneacer - great job! I really appreciate the pictures/directions ! I am doing almost the same thing this weekend, with any luck! I'll also be installing Snow-Hog tires too. I'm hoping it will run like a new machine! Less "touchy" with more traction to pull itself. It's been such a pain using this snowblower a buddy gave me when he moved South...


I want to build in a remote deflector angle control this summer also. I think I could use the old throttle control to control the deflector.


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## plowman (Jan 16, 2011)

Darn thing erased my comment when I hit send. 

Hey, what color are you planning on painting the arms ? Classically they should be grey or chrome but I was thinking to paint them Black. Auger too. Re-paint the hosing orange, although I'm not sure mine needs the orange re-painted but it'd look nicer.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thank you. The Arms I will paint black. I feel working in the snow, it would give it better contrast . The wife just ran it yesterday with storm Denis (I'm out of town), all went well.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

plowman said:


> Hey, what color are you planning on painting the arms ? Classically they should be grey or chrome but I was thinking to paint them Black. .


White or Chrome..not grey! 

Scot


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## plowman (Jan 16, 2011)

Black. Auger's going black too. And the drift cutters. Bad arse Black.


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## plowman (Jan 16, 2011)

Is the pulley press fit? I think I need to get a universal puller. And use a hammer to install ?!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

The pulley slides over the shaft with a key-way. It is then tightened/loosened with set screws using an Allen wrench. After you loosen the set screws, if it wont move, spray it with a liquid wrench, then carefully tap/shock it back and fourth. (Easily tapping it, do not whack it hard, you will do damage) It should be able to slide easily on the shaft back and fourth prior to tightening it.


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## plowman (Jan 16, 2011)

I used a universal puller... It came out so smooth spinning the center thread. I can't believe I was freaking out last night about not being able to pull the pulley...


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## Bhaef (Feb 8, 2011)

Nice job Oneacer and thanks for taking the time uploading pictures. I got a good visual on how to replace an engine when the time comes. I have a Ariens st1024 about 12 years old. So far the only problem I've had was that it was back firing, misfiring and stalling at low speeds. At high speed with a load it ran beautifully. I learned that there are 2 idle mix screws. One under the float bowl and one on the side of the carburetor. First I tuned the screw at the bottom of the float bowl until it ran smooth while at high rpm. Then at a lower rpm I adjusted the screw on the side of the carburetor until it ran smooth at that speed. Now its running great. 

Last week I had to replace a lower handlebar due to it cracking near the first bolt. I tried welding it but it snapped again this time right at the bolt. One lower handlebar cost $92. I'd like to add some sort of extra support to avoid another break in the future. Any ideas?


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## plowman (Jan 16, 2011)

As it turns out i installed an 8.5 hp 11.5 (1150) ft-lbs torque Briggs & Stratton on my 10m4. It fit alright. Plenty of bolt clearance but tighter around the chute control. Throws 50 feet in the deep stuff now. Or halfway up the roof.


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## plowman (Jan 16, 2011)

@ Bhaef, JB Weld.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

plowman, Sweet, looks like we both have many years of snow removal ahead. My wife has been using my 10M4 with the new B&S for the last couple storms, doing just fine.


@ Bhaef, I tried to locate a photo of the Ariens st1024 without luck. What I probably would do to strengthen the handles is run a cross brace from the handle to the machine, I would do this by taking a sturdy galvanized electric conduit, hammer the ends flat and round the sharp edges and paint it black to match the handlebars. I would then drill a hole through both ends. I would attach it to the existing handle with one of those metal hose clamps with the rubber coating that opens up and fits around the bars and allows you to run a bolt through it and the end of the new cross member.( This would allow a swivel/slide adjustment point, while keeping everything tight after tightening. The other end I would attach to the machine at a point where a good angle finds an existing bolt, being sure to use a slightly longer bolt to allow for the width of the new cross member under it. In my opinion, this would assist in correcting any over-flex in the existing handle bars where they may cause a future break. 

NOTE: You could use this same method for cross braces as well, adding a bolt at center where they cross by drilling into both piecses and bolting together.


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## plowman (Jan 16, 2011)

hey oneacer. i wish my wife would use the snowblower! i can't get her to go outside in the winter, but she did just get a pair of snowpants... new storm today. but i expect to do the plowing myself. she's a little small to handle this somewhat large and heavy snowblower. i did have a slight vibrational issue. the engine was so large it was giving me carple tunnel! but i put tennis cushion overgrips on the handle and got a really good pair of 100 gram thinsulated leather work gloves (using ski mittens before) and this seems to have fixed the vibration issue.


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