# TRS27 ignition switch / kill switch wiring...



## hatake (Nov 20, 2019)

Hi everyone, I just got 1983 TRS27 with a few things not exactly right, though it runs. Carburetor needs a full rebuild for sure, but the pressing need is to make the ignition switch / kill switch working. Since it runs, I'm guessing it maybe shorted (bypassed). It won't kill the engine even if I turn it to off position. It is grounded by 1 wire and nothing else, and am wondering if I'm missing a live wire into the key / module. I can't seem to find any diagram, would someone able to tell me if an additional wire needs to be attached, where?:smile2:


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Welcome to SBF. Although some key switches only have one terminal and ground through the body of the switch to ground, yours LOOKS like a second terminal that would have a wire going to a ground is broken off, hard to tell.


There should be a nylon insulator on the speed control that has a contact that kills the ignition when the throttle is moved to off, and yours APPEAR to be missing.


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## hatake (Nov 20, 2019)

Thank you Grunt, I do have that insulator and the throttle lever does come down to (I think) create a continuity or break one. However, the bottom of that insulator seems to lack the contact that your picture has, therefore no wire is attached. Since the ignition key wire is black, would I assume this black wire to be attached to the insulator, and the ground (green) currently attached to the black wire to be removed? Thanks for your advise!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

The green wire should connect to the missing terminal on that insulator. If you get this repaired, pushing the throttle down will kill the engine and you wouldn't need the key switch unless you want to child proof it by removing the key after the switch is also repaired\replaced. One wire on the key switch would go to ground and the other wire to the same terminal as the green wires.


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## hatake (Nov 20, 2019)

Awesome, thanks for the confirmation


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

And you probably mean a 1993 TRS not a 1983. The TRS was not around in 83. TRS was made by Murray for John Deere and back in 83 John Deere still built their own machines until the late 80s.


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## hatake (Nov 20, 2019)

Yup 93 Murray unit. It runs ok now that I cleaned the carburetor, fuel lines and oil change. Colorado front range got a heavy snow half a foot my location, this is a back saver. I still need to repack the gearbox (hope gears are in a decent shape...), decarbon with valve adjustment, impeller mod. I actually don't know if it is a 2 cycle or 4 cycle engine. Hmm.

Either way it can't be as bad as my Onan p218 unit from JD 318 right?


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

4 cycle. I still have 2 TRS27s at 2 of my church buildings. One for sure will be getting replaced in 2019 so I might have some parts for you next year.


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## hatake (Nov 20, 2019)

Thanks to you all, my TRS27 is running really good. Also did an impeller mod and it shoots out snow much, much better. Drive train worked fine without any drag/hesitation, so I didn't bother. I made it work pretty hard with a foot+ heavy snow this week here in Colorado foothills, it did good.

One thing I noticed, and would like your insight, is when I parked it overnight in a shed (unheated), the impeller shaft may have had snow and froze (?), so first time I engaged the arguer, the engine bogged down and stalled. Next, I gradually engaged the arguer and it started working. No issue afterward or funny smell.

What do you think happened and any inputs how to deal with it?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, clean your machine before you park it, or store in heated area. 

Just think what happens when all that snow and water turn to an ice weld. Right, when you start it, you either burn the belt and/or break something or it stalls.

I suppose if you just park it in a cold area, you could go over it with a heat gun prior to starting, provided you have electricity?


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## hatake (Nov 20, 2019)

Ah I see, clean it afterward then heat gun. Thanks oneacer, this thing is a back saver, I can't imagine going thru the winter without it now.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

There should also be a drain hole in the impeller housing to allow water to drain out. I park mine on a pallet and the rear is elevated a bit so if there is melt it's going to run out the bucket.
IMHO going in there with a heat gun after each use would be a pain but then again I haven't had it freeze up on me (yet :wink2.

.


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