# Tecumseh H35 running very rich



## dethomson (Jan 26, 2014)

My old Simplicity snowblower (#1691172) has a H35 Tecumseh engine (#H35-45601R) on it with what appears to be a Series I carb. It didn't survive the last round of storage and had the carb's high speed needle and needle value spring succumb to rust. I rebuilt the carb using a Tecumseh kit, but it continues to run rich -even with the high and low speed needles screwed all the way in.

During my rebuild, I found a pin (see the picture) in the passage that supplies the low speed needle with fuel. Is this pin supposed to be in there, and is there supposed to be a ball bearing plugging the hole? The pin slides in and out very easily (it's not a snug fit).










My float is in good shape. I've adjusted it a little beyond the 11/64 (or 13/64) recommended setting to try and lessen the amount of fuel going into the bowl, but that didn't make any difference.

The carb really is pretty clean. I'm at a loss for where the extra fuel is coming from.

Any suggestions?

Dan


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

Could be your float valve isn't seating properly. You can check it by pinching of the fuel supply line and disconnecting it. Drop your carburetor bowl, hold your float up and with an attached piece of tubing connected to your fuel inlet nipple, blow into the tube. If no air will escape, your needle is seating. If you hear air, your float valve has issues. There are bb's blocking ports in some Tecumseh carbs. Did you find one rolling around in there? The pin looks like a float hinge pin. Have to say, never seen one in a carb port. MH


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## dethomson (Jan 26, 2014)

Good tip on checking the float valve seat. It's new, but that doesn't always mean it's good...

No, I didn't find a BB rolling around anywhere. And yes, the pin looks like a float pin. I was given the blower a few years ago and do not know what may have been done to it previously.

I've watched a number of rebuild videos, but can't quite make out if 'this' carb should have that passage blocked or not.

Picture #12 on this repair guide (Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh Series 1 Carb 632107) does show the passage blocked though. I'll do two things:
1- Check the float valve using the air test.
2- screw in a set screw and see if that clears things up


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I know some cabs have something that rattles in them. I have heard of check valves, but never taken any apart. Also, some are cross drilled and then a BB is pressed in to cover the hole on the outside.


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## dethomson (Jan 26, 2014)

I am happy to report that the Tecumseh H35 is now running very well.

1- It passed the air test on the float valve.
2- I put a small set screw into the hole where the BB evidently was supposed to be. I did NOT drop the pin back in the hole before sealing it up.

I may go back in at some point and adjust the float to the 11/64" spacing as recommended in a few rebuild specs.

For now, I'm kind of looking forward to our next bit of snow so I can give this a live test. That might not happen for a long time, seeing we don't usually get much accumilation on the Eastern Shore of MD. Until then, I'll add in some fuel stabilizer so things don't go south again....

While I wait for the next snow I'll probably also check the spacing on the second stage blades, change the oil, and replace the fuel line.

One last thing: I found it good to use the full rebuild kit that includes both needles, welch plugs, o-rings, float valve and seat, bowl seal, and float valve spring (it was only $15.00 US). I popped out the welch plugs, cleaned their spaces and orifaces, and carefully put in the replacements. No issues there.

Thanks for participating in this thread. I hope follow-on viewers find it useful.

Dan


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