# Ariens Deluxe 24 Bogging Down



## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Bought new the Deluxe 24 in 2018,, Haven't used it too many times..Noticed in say 8" or higher wet or dry snow, it wants to climb and the engine starts to bog down a bit..Everything is set up correctly and lubed..Starts right up and runs smooth , set at highest speed , choke off..Now I read somewhere that if you use middle grade or high test gas it might run stronger, any truth to that ?, and that these engines take quite a long time to fully break in for full power.....Also, I'm going to add a 10lb flat bar in the front to help with the climbing...My old Mtd with a 8 HP Tecumseh engine never bogged down even in 20" dry snow..Also noticed that under the stats for all the Ariens engines the max speed is 3800 + or - 50 rpms,,,but the 254cc engine on the Deluxe 24 is at 3600 + or - 50rpms..Why it that, or is that a mistake??..My tach reads it at 3600 when fully warm..Should it run at 3800 rpms?? Thanks


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Ariens adjusted the position of the wheel drive axle forward on your model, so it matches the Pro models, and intended to improve the AutoTurn performance. However, the re-positioning takes weight off the bucket/skid shoes. Some people have complained the lighter bucket increases the tendency for skid shoes to ride up on snow. Adding more weight to the bucket may help to resolve this and it is a popular practice. 

The presence of ethanol in the fuel has less energy than the gasoline it replaces, so using fuel with no ethanol will improve performance a little but it is not a noticeable improvement. I use 91 Octane ethanol free gas since it does not need stabilizers and can last from season to season and still burn in my engine.

The Ariens AX engines are manufactured by LCT but Ariens spec the AX engines at 3,600 +/- 100 rpm max. LCT spec their engines at 3,850 +/- 50 rpm. The way the governor is set up with a fixed end attached to engine cooling cover and other end at the governor arm (4 holes on mine) does allow for a variation in max governed rpm. My engine when new ran at 3,450 rpm (laser tach verified) that did not perform well. I increased spring tension (moved spring to outer hole) to increase rpm to 3,700 rpm (laser tach) and the engine ran well. Now it is at 3,900 rpm (laser tach) and 3,880 to 3,920 rpm with my newly installed tach/hour meter gauge. So at less than a 10% rpm increase I think my engine will be OK.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

The impeller on the Ariens scoop up a lot of snow and throw it far. Therefore, it needs more power. That 8hp Tecumseh did not bog down on your MTD, but will bog down on your Ariens.

I have a deluxe 24 with that 8hp Tecumseh engine. My impeller rpm is faster than your impeller rpm. It would bog down all the time as well.

It is not the end of the world. You just have to go slower, or take less bite. If you are not happy with it, then upgrade.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Town said:


> Ariens adjusted the position of the wheel drive axle forward on your model, so it matches the Pro models, and intended to improve the AutoTurn performance. However, the re-positioning takes weight off the bucket/skid shoes. Some people have complained the lighter bucket increases the tendency for skid shoes to ride up on snow. Adding more weight to the bucket may help to resolve this and it is a popular practice.
> 
> The presence of ethanol in the fuel has less energy than the gasoline it replaces, so using fuel with no ethanol will improve performance a little but it is not a noticeable improvement. I use 91 Octane ethanol free gas since it does not need stabilizers and can last from season to season and still burn in my engine.
> 
> The Ariens AX engines are manufactured by LCT but Ariens spec the AX engines at 3,600 +/- 100 rpm max. LCT spec their engines at 3,850 +/- 50 rpm. The way the governor is set up with a fixed end attached to engine cooling cover and other end at the governor arm (4 holes on mine) does allow for a variation in max governed rpm. My engine when new ran at 3,450 rpm (laser tach verified) that did not perform well. I increased spring tension (moved spring to outer hole) to increase rpm to 3,700 rpm (laser tach) and the engine ran well. Now it is at 3,900 rpm (laser tach) and 3,880 to 3,920 rpm with my newly installed tach/hour meter gauge. So at less than a 10% rpm increase I think my engine will be OK.


Thanks...Is there any site or pictorial I could view to see my model engine on those spring settings..??...


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

dman2 said:


> The impeller on the Ariens scoop up a lot of snow and throw it far. Therefore, it needs more power. That 8hp Tecumseh did not bog down on your MTD, but will bog down on your Ariens.
> 
> I have a deluxe 24 with that 8hp Tecumseh engine. My impeller rpm is faster than your impeller rpm. It would bog down all the time as well.
> 
> It is not the end of the world. You just have to go slower, or take less bite. If you are not happy with it, then upgrade.


So you put that Tecumseh 8 hp engine on you Deluxe 24 Ariens??...Any problems doing it??


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

SNOWJOE said:


> Thanks...Is there any site or pictorial I could view to see my model engine on those spring settings..??...


My 414 cc engine has a governor assembly that allows some changes to the governed engine speed. The attached pic shows the governor arm (with the fuel tank removed) near the engine pulleys with a strong spring mounted in the second from outermost hole and the other end fixed to the engine cooling cover. This is stock form and should give 3,600 rpm, but mine was lower by 150 rpm. 










Moving the spring to the outermost hole increases the governed engine speed, and in my case to 3,700 rpm. Removal of the engine side covers would give access to the spring to relocate if the 254 cc engine uses the same governor access. To increase governed engine speed further the fixed end of spring needs to be moved farther from the governor arm to make the spring stronger. Move it just a little at a time to get to your desired rpm.

LCT has a brochure showing the engine dimensions which may show the governor. I will see if I can find it.


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

I just bought my Deluxe 24 in December 2017, this last snowfall a few days ago was the first "worthy" snowfall we've had since (and that just barely) because it was very wet and heavy, the "heart attack" stuff. This year I'm doing an experiment and running Trufuel in it because alcohol-free gasoline is simply not available anywhere reasonably close. Even the high octane stuff has alcohol in it - I checked with a tester. So Trufuel it is for now since we don't get snowbombed like say, Buffalo. At most I'll use two gallons of it, more likely less than a gallon.

I'm very happy with the Deluxe 24. Yes it did tend to want to climb at the EOD, but so has every other snowblower I've ever used. It showed no signs of bogging down. The limiting factor was how fast I could go, otherwise the bucket was pushing snow, an indication that I was trying to go too fast with it. Slowing down one notch fixed that. But the engine never bogged down, just kept chugging along.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Town said:


> My 414 cc engine has a governor assembly that allows some changes to the governed engine speed. The attached pic shows the governor arm (with the fuel tank removed) near the engine pulleys with a strong spring mounted in the second from outermost hole and the other end fixed to the engine cooling cover. This is stock form and should give 3,600 rpm, but mine was lower by 150 rpm.
> 
> View attachment 172004
> 
> ...


Many thanks,,I will be trying this soon,, will let you know what happens..


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

WVguy said:


> I just bought my Deluxe 24 in December 2017, this last snowfall a few days ago was the first "worthy" snowfall we've had since (and that just barely) because it was very wet and heavy, the "heart attack" stuff. This year I'm doing an experiment and running Trufuel in it because alcohol-free gasoline is simply not available anywhere reasonably close. Even the high octane stuff has alcohol in it - I checked with a tester. So Trufuel it is for now since we don't get snowbombed like say, Buffalo. At most I'll use two gallons of it, more likely less than a gallon.
> 
> I'm very happy with the Deluxe 24. Yes it did tend to want to climb at the EOD, but so has every other snowblower I've ever used. It showed no signs of bogging down. The limiting factor was how fast I could go, otherwise the bucket was pushing snow, an indication that I was trying to go too fast with it. Slowing down one notch fixed that. But the engine never bogged down, just kept chugging along.


Mine will want to bogg down in 1st speed and not pushing it at all..in anything over 8 in..and I back off...Has the true fuel made a difference or not, or you haven't got to try it yet?


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Here is the 254 cc LCT engine schematics: https://lctusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/254cc-LCT-Winter-Schematic.pdf but I cannot see any indication of the governor mechanism.

The 254cc AX engine seems to have been around for a long time and the governor mechanism appears consistent through the different models to the current 921045. It is not the same as my 414 engine. Here is a link to the parts on the 921045 that is the current version: PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment the governor parts are shown at the top of the diagram as part # 26. I have not found any info on how to adjust that governor linkage.


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

SNOWJOE said:


> Has the true fuel made a difference or not, or you haven't got to try it yet?


I have not noticed that the Trufuel made any difference over regular gasoline in performance, but I didn't really expect it to. The main reason I'm using that is because snow here is very irregular, we may go the rest of the winter and not see any snow at all. Or we may be up to our butts in it next week. One never knows....

The Trufuel is mostly just so it won't be sitting a long time with that stupid Congress/EPA-mandated alcohol contaminated crap in it eating away at the seals and stuff. And secondarily, I was curious to see if it would make any difference in the way it ran or started. The answer to that question is "no".


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Town said:


> Here is the 254 cc LCT engine schematics: https://lctusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/254cc-LCT-Winter-Schematic.pdf but I cannot see any indication of the governor mechanism.
> 
> The 254cc AX engine seems to have been around for a long time and the governor mechanism appears consistent through the different models to the current 921045. It is not the same as my 414 engine. Here is a link to the parts on the 921045 that is the current version: PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment the governor parts are shown at the top of the diagram as part # 26. I have not found any info on how to adjust that governor linkage.


Terrific,, Thanks for the links..they will help a lot when I'm in there looking..


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Since your engine is running at 3,600 rpm shown on your tach the governor seems to be set correctly. When I used a neighbors Husqvarna with that engine it had lots of power. Do you usually drain the carb and gas tank at the end of season since old gas could partially block the jets in your carb. A partial blockage may allow a no load speed of 3,600 rpm but once under load the engine may bog quickly. Have you tried a slower gear to slow the snow intake and help avoid bogging? 

If you can see your tach while blowing the snow, does the engine speed drop quickly or over a longer time?


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Town said:


> Since your engine is running at 3,600 rpm shown on your tach the governor seems to be set correctly. When I used a neighbors Husqvarna with that engine it had lots of power. Do you usually drain the carb and gas tank at the end of season since old gas could partially block the jets in your carb. A partial blockage may allow a no load speed of 3,600 rpm but once under load the engine may bog quickly. Have you tried a slower gear to slow the snow intake and help avoid bogging?
> 
> If you can see your tach while blowing the snow, does the engine speed drop quickly or over a longer time?


Yes I always drain the gas out on everything snow throwers, lawn mowers, generators, the engine was brand new right out of the box.. Next time I will put the tachometer on while in use and check the reading ... I never push the snow thrower, it's always in the first gear speed when bogging down..I've been doing this for 35 years, never force my throwers...What I do notice the difference between the Tecumseh engine and the LCT,, the Tecumseh when entering deep or wet snow, the engine would actually pick up speed automatically...the governor would throw it into a higher speed, or maintained the correct speed, this one doesn't, just slows or boggs down..Maybe the governor isn't set correct like you said..


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

SNOWJOE said:


> So you put that Tecumseh 8 hp engine on you Deluxe 24 Ariens??...Any problems doing it??


Mine snow blower is one of the earliest models. The Tecumseh engine came with it.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

dman2 said:


> Mine snow blower is one of the earliest models. The Tecumseh engine came with it.


You got a good one...


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

SNOWJOE said:


> You got a good one...


Well, it is only 8hp like your. It was one of the most commonly used engines on snow blowers, so there is nothing special about it. Some people think Tecumseh engines are crappy engines.

I increased its engine rpm from 3500 to 3670. It ran fine in the summer, but now surging at 3670 rpm. The carb that I got might have not delivered enough fuel at high rpm. I just enlarged the main jet last night and about to go out and test it. My next fix would be buying a new adjustable carburetor for it.
After that, I might have more power and less bogging down.

A bigger engine someday I guess. I'm not ready it yet, as I don't want to pay for new belts and all of that craps.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

dman2 said:


> Well, it is only 8hp like your. It was one of the most commonly used engines on snow blowers, so there is nothing special about it. Some people think Tecumseh engines are crappy engines.
> 
> I increased its engine rpm from 3500 to 3670. It ran fine in the summer, but now surging at 3670 rpm. The carb that I got might have not delivered enough fuel at high rpm. I just enlarged the main jet last night and about to go out and test it. My next fix would be buying a new adjustable carburetor for it.
> After that, I might have more power and less bogging down.
> ...


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

So, the aftermarket carburetor that I was using fixed my previous carburetor problem, but it was slightly rich at rpm above 3500. After I enlarged its main jet last night, it ran even richer and fouled the spark plug.

I just put in the OEM original main jet, and it is running smooth as silk now (it sounds right and runs smooth at all RPM ranges). Nothing can beat the OEM carb, even though people said that they were set lean from the factory.

I can't wait for the next snow to see the improvement.

As for your engine bogging down, I don't know what to say. The deluxe models scoop up a lot of snow, so it requires more power. I guess using poly skid shoes, waxing the impeller housing and chute all help. Maybe, do the impeller mod to further improve it.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

dman2 said:


> So, the aftermarket carburetor that I was using fixed my previous carburetor problem, but it was slightly rich at rpm above 3500. After I enlarged its main jet last night, it ran even richer and fouled the spark plug.
> 
> I just put in the OEM original main jet, and it is running smooth as silk now (it sounds right and runs smooth at all RPM ranges). Nothing can beat the OEM carb, even though people said that they were set lean from the factory.
> 
> ...


Nice job on your carb....As for the tricks, I do the waxing , always had poly shoes , even on my old Mtd...Will try the middle grade gas, install the tach while running in snow..If that don't improve it,, will look into the governor setting..


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

SNOWJOE said:


> Nice job on your carb....As for the tricks, I do the waxing , always had poly shoes , even on my old Mtd...Will try the middle grade gas, install the tach while running in snow..If that don't improve it,, will look into the governor setting..


Yes, definitely use non-ethanol gasoline on small equipment. Octane rating does not matter (as far as power goes), but I like to use 91 octane for cleaner burn.

Ethanol gas will have less energy and it damages the fuel system quick if left in there for too long.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

OK..I attached my tach to the dash,,and ran her till warm, about 10 min.....Tops off at 3600 rpm, full throttle , no choke...Now when I engage just the auger, she drops about 100 rpms to 3500-3550...and holds.. No snow or load on it....have to wait for the next snowfall for that test...So should the Rpms drop that much with the auger driven with no snow??..BTW it was running with Shell reg.. 87 in it...Will run it next snow with 89 Shell..No 91 here..I thinking The rpms should be at least 100 higher to 200 without any problems...What say you??


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

Where do u get a 500 rpm drop?? Tops 3600 to 3550 is 50rpm???


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Johnny G1 said:


> Where do u get a 500 rpm drop?? Tops 3600 to 3550 is 50rpm???


When I engage the Auger..with no snow...Yes 50-100 rpm drop.. your right..Good find..


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

SNOWJOE said:


> When I engage the Auger..with no snow...Yes 50-100 rpm drop.. your right..Good find..


On my machine when I engage the Auger/impeller the rpm does not drop at all. When I also engage the wheel drive as well there is no drop in rpm either.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Town said:


> On my machine when I engage the Auger/impeller the rpm does not drop at all. When I also engage the wheel drive as well there is no drop in rpm either.


When I engage the wheel drive there is no drop also...So what do you think why my auger causes a drop, or should the rpms be raised??...I've been underneath in the service postion since day one, and nothing seems out of wack, but I did find the brake wasn't completely disengaging on the auger pulley before..Had to correct that...


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

SNOWJOE said:


> When I engage the wheel drive there is no drop also...So what do you think why my auger causes a drop, or should the rpms be raised??...I've been underneath in the service postion since day one, and nothing seems out of wack, but I did find the brake wasn't completely disengaging on the auger pulley before..Had to correct that...


Your rpm drop of 50 to 100 rpm drop is about the same as my machine blowing 3 to 4 inches of snow that is a bit wet. I have only used my machine 5 times with a tach installed so I am just learning and there is some variability in the rpm reading. 

I would suspect that there is some extra resistance in the driveline to the auger. You can engage the auger clutch with a tie wrap or similar so you can see how the auger and impeller are running at speed and check for any irregular movement or noise. Slow the engine very gradually to idle speed and it should be still running (mine runs at idle of 2,000 to 2,400 rpm. If there is extra resistance in the driveline then your engine would likely stall before idle rpm. If your engine stalls then perhaps the brake is not releasing, or bearing is failing, gearbox bushings or lube, bushings tight at ends of auger shafts. My guess would be on the impeller shaft bearing if a roller bearing since I replace them every couple of years and they are breaking up.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Town said:


> Your rpm drop of 50 to 100 rpm drop is about the same as my machine blowing 3 to 4 inches of snow that is a bit wet. I have only used my machine 5 times with a tach installed so I am just learning and there is some variability in the rpm reading.
> 
> I would suspect that there is some extra resistance in the driveline to the auger. You can engage the auger clutch with a tie wrap or similar so you can see how the auger and impeller are running at speed and check for any irregular movement or noise. Slow the engine very gradually to idle speed and it should be still running (mine runs at idle of 2,000 to 2,400 rpm. If there is extra resistance in the driveline then your engine would likely stall before idle rpm. If your engine stalls then perhaps the brake is not releasing, or bearing is failing, gearbox bushings or lube, bushings tight at ends of auger shafts. My guess would be on the impeller shaft bearing if a roller bearing since I replace them every couple of years and they are breaking up.


I'll give it a try tomorrow with the auger held down and lower the idle speed slowly and see what happens. I don't suspect anything dramatic because I don't hear any noise or any shaking with the auger ... And it's well oiled and greased... The machine is brand new so I can't see how any bearings being bad, or I would hear it.


Town said:


> Your rpm drop of 50 to 100 rpm drop is about the same as my machine blowing 3 to 4 inches of snow that is a bit wet. I have only used my machine 5 times with a tach installed so I am just learning and there is some variability in the rpm reading.
> 
> I would suspect that there is some extra resistance in the driveline to the auger. You can engage the auger clutch with a tie wrap or similar so you can see how the auger and impeller are running at speed and check for any irregular movement or noise. Slow the engine very gradually to idle speed and it should be still running (mine runs at idle of 2,000 to 2,400 rpm. If there is extra resistance in the driveline then your engine would likely stall before idle rpm. If your engine stalls then perhaps the brake is not releasing, or bearing is failing, gearbox bushings or lube, bushings tight at ends of auger shafts. My guess would be on the impeller shaft bearing if a roller bearing since I replace them every couple of years and they are breaking up.


OK,,,Used a clamp to hold auger handle down..Looking at the auger spinning at high and low speed , nothing unusual to see or hear...Rpms at low speed/ no auger/ 2100.. with auger about 1800...No stalling of engine with auger at low speed....You do have a monster engine, 414, I think you said...Might be why no drop with auger at high speed...Need others with my engine /model to compare with...


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Yes I do have the 414 cc engine and it runs very well.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Opened the bottom plate to double check everything..Auger brake still clears when auger engaged, but checked auger belt pulley and found the center nut was not snug tight.... 
Made about a full turn to snug it up..Also checked every nut or bolt in reach...Don't know if that will matter..Next time I run it, don't want to drive the neighbors mad...


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

@SNOWJOE Good find on the loose retaining bolt for the impeller pulley hub. One turn of that fine (24 pitch) thread bolt is not likely to affect anything but left alone the resulting further backing out would be nasty. The hub has a D shaped internal shape that mates to the end of the impeller shaft's D shape. The parts mainly rely on the bolt/lockwasher to hold the parts together. Did you notice a lock washer under the head of that bolt?


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Town said:


> @SNOWJOE Good find on the loose retaining bolt for the impeller pulley hub. One turn of that fine (24 pitch) thread bolt is not likely to affect anything but left alone the resulting further backing out would be nasty. The hub has a D shaped internal shape that mates to the end of the impeller shaft's D shape. The parts mainly rely on the bolt/lockwasher to hold the parts together. Did you notice a lock washer under the head of that bolt?


Tell you the truth I did not notice a lock washer, though I wasn't really looking that closely,, I know the three surrounding bolts that joined the other pulley did not have lock washers and they were pretty snug..


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

The talk about E-10 gas with less HP is relatively insignificant when talking about an 8 hp snowblower engine. E-10 has about 96% of the BTU of E-0, meaning your engine is 7.68 hp which will not be noticeable. Also note that if you're running E-0, you should be running a small amount of isopropyl alcohol to absorb any moisture in the fuel. Often times, the E-10 will bring the carb jetting closer to correct and actually result in a net gain of output power. Ask snowmobilers from the days of carburetors how E-10 could be a tuning tool on a warmer day. Bottom deal- don't get too hung up on your gasoline's octane or E-10.

Regarding the OP's D-24.. A couple of checks- this might be a dumb question, but are you twisting the throttle knob completely to full position? The engine will run full rpm with a small amount of rotation, but not pull a full load. A year ago, I thought my D-28 was totally underpowered at first. There may have been a break in situation or I may have not been turning the throttle knob all the way. Very possible I wasn't twisting the throttle the full turn at the time. Whichever the case, ample power now. Not crazy extra power, but ample to get the job done.

Interesting that you found the drive pulley's retaining screw to be loose. I found that same screw laying at the bottom of my service cover last spring. Another member on this site also reported the same condition.

Hope this helps.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

BazookaJoe said:


> The talk about E-10 gas with less HP is relatively insignificant when talking about an 8 hp snowblower engine. E-10 has about 96% of the BTU of E-0, meaning your engine is 7.68 hp which will not be noticeable. Also note that if you're running E-0, you should be running a small amount of isopropyl alcohol to absorb any moisture in the fuel. Often times, the E-10 will bring the carb jetting closer to correct and actually result in a net gain of output power. Ask snowmobilers from the days of carburetors how E-10 could be a tuning tool on a warmer day. Bottom deal- don't get too hung up on your gasoline's octane or E-10.
> 
> Regarding the OP's D-24.. A couple of checks- this might be a dumb question, but are you twisting the throttle knob completely to full position? The engine will run full rpm with a small amount of rotation, but not pull a full load. A year ago, I thought my D-28 was totally underpowered at first. There may have been a break in situation or I may have not been turning the throttle knob all the way. Very possible I wasn't twisting the throttle the full turn at the time. Whichever the case, ample power now. Not crazy extra power, but ample to get the job done.
> 
> ...


As for the gas, I don't believe it will matter either, but willing to try it, since others have made comments about it...No, the throttle is in the full position, even lifted the plastic knob off and re-positioned it to make sure it was all the way to full..My tach when engine warms, shows it at 3600 rpms with no load..I was surprised to find that pulley nut wasn't snug too...Will check it at every service in the off season, maybe others should too....BTW, when new out of the box, I did find the auger brake wasn't disengaging from the auger pulley,, had to make adjustments to the curved brake bar... Found that a bit odd, fresh from the factory...


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

SnowJoe- Any update on your machine? I was just thinking about your engine's rpm drop when you engage the auger. When I engage my D-28's auger, the engine gives a confident bark from the governor system, and then steadies back at the same rpm (as best I can tell by ear).


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

BazookaJoe said:


> SnowJoe- Any update on your machine? I was just thinking about your engine's rpm drop when you engage the auger. When I engage my D-28's auger, the engine gives a confident bark from the governor system, and then steadies back at the same rpm (as best I can tell by ear).


No update until it snows again, I hope....Yes, my Mtd use to throw it into a higher rpm also, almost sounding like a truck down shifting for more power....So if and when it snows, and the 91 octane doesn't show any improvement , I'll look at the governor setting. BTW, what is your engine size on your D-28??


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

SNOWJOE said:


> BTW, what is your engine size on your D-28??


I have the same size engine as your machine- 254cc rated at 12.5 ft-lbs. I think most parts are the same on our machines except for the D-28's wider bucket. Back at your original post- that thick heavy snow can be a total power killer. Your old MTD was probably a louder machine, so there can be the perception that more noise equals greater power. And remember that your D-24 will throw snow further than your MTD, so that increased throw distance is going to sap a little power.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

BazookaJoe said:


> I have the same size engine as your machine- 254cc rated at 12.5 ft-lbs. I think most parts are the same on our machines except for the D-28's wider bucket. Back at your original post- that thick heavy snow can be a total power killer. Your old MTD was probably a louder machine, so there can be the perception that more noise equals greater power. And remember that your D-24 will throw snow further than your MTD, so that increased throw distance is going to sap a little power.


Yes it does throw farther, but at 9 inches of dry stuff, shouldn't be a drag for 8HP...Will have to see at the next snow...One step at a time...Could be needs more break in time also....Only have 6hrs or so run in time on her total..


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## WIHD (Dec 15, 2019)

Initially had a 28" with the 254...it was constantly lugging, couldn't get the work done. Got rid of it and got a 414, it throws snow into orbit.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Added a weight bar I made..Weighs about 11lbs..Cost me about $35 with SS bolts and the shipping..Not painted . Sprayed it with corrosion oil stop..One problem,, NO SNOW...


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

No snow is not a problem for me. It adds more time to the life of the snowblower.


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## Big_6 (Dec 16, 2020)

My 24 compact started the climbing when I added the longer skids. Check your adjustments.
I have the front weight too.
Even being in speed setting 1 or 2 the machine floated up on the snow. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

Just fixed my Compact 24 from bogging down. Top RPM was set at 2400 now at 3800. Should blow snow much better now.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Auger1 said:


> Just fixed my Compact 24 from bogging down. Top RPM was set at 2400 now at 3800. Should blow snow much better now.


Do mean 3400 rpm's instead of 2400?...I might increase mine if it ever snows again.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

SNOWJOE said:


> Do mean 3400 rpm's instead of 2400?...I might increase mine if it ever snows again.


Nope the little tach said 2400rpm and now 3800 is what I set it to, doesn't mean I have to run it that high but it's nice if I ever need it. Very surprised by the low setting and the time I used it in the wet snow the engine did not impressed me much. May be different this round.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Auger1 said:


> Nope the little tach said 2400rpm and now 3800 is what I set it to, doesn't mean I have to run it that high but it's nice if I ever need it. Very surprised by the low setting and the time I used it in the wet snow the engine did not impressed me much. May be different this round.


Wow,, surprise it even ran with a load of snow at 2400 rpm...let us know how she does at 3800...


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

BazookaJoe said:


> SnowJoe- Any update on your machine? I was just thinking about your engine's rpm drop when you engage the auger. When I engage my D-28's auger, the engine gives a confident bark from the governor system, and then steadies back at the same rpm (as best I can tell by ear).


I love that sound. And then hear it bear down when it hits deep snow up to the top of the bucket and keeps on chugging! Sometimes, I still go, 'yee-haw!' when that happens. It keeps the neighbors entertained.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

RIT333 said:


> No snow is not a problem for me. It adds more time to the life of the snowblower.


My 1971 Ariens is 50 years old and it will probably outlive me. 
So much for 'the life of the snowblower'. 
The bigger issue, in my instance, is whether there will be any 's-a-a-afety concious' individual brave enough to run it after I'm gone!


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Well finally got my snow...16-18" of dry fluffy stuff..Yes I believe the 89 octane did improve the engine power over 87..wasn't 100% 89 , but 75% at least..The weight bar also helps tons to keep the front end planted and a cleaner path...She didn't bogg down like before, but hung in there on those first full passes..after that the half full buckets went through with ease...Now the rpms, fully warm,no load, 3600-3630... full bucket, drops to 3100-3300 approx....So not sure if I should increase the speed or leave it be for now..Thanks to all for the suggestions...


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## Big_6 (Dec 16, 2020)

The 24 Compact with a Briggs just took away 16" of snow on the 2/1/2021 NJ Noreaster.
The impeller has the mudflaps screwed on and it throws everything including slush.
I thought one weight kit would make a difference. The skids might need an adjustment.
At the curb, the engine struggles with the rps too low.
Tomorrow's another day to turn up the Briggs power!









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Well she gets stronger with every run...Definitely feels like more throwing power, whether its the 89 gas or just the breaking in period or both...Would like to increase the rpms to 3700 at no-load at some time, right now at 3600-3630, just in case of a Big Daddy...Don't think that would hurt any..


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

SNOWJOE said:


> Well she gets stronger with every run...Definitely feels like more throwing power, whether its the 89 gas or just the breaking in period or both...Would like to increase the rpms to 3700 at no-load at some time, right now at 3600-3630, just in case of a Big Daddy...Don't think that would hurt any..


Today 3 in. of slush,,so I said what the hey...She went through with no problem, even at EOD...threw it pretty far too without really clogging or bogging, like she's on steroids...Haven't changed the RPMS...


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

SNOWJOE said:


> Today 3 in. of slush,,so I said what the hey...She went through with no problem, even at EOD...threw it pretty far too without really clogging or bogging, like she's on steroids...Haven't changed the RPMS...


Sounds pretty much how my D-28 went. At first, I was wondering just what kind of wimpy pooch did I bring home. After a few good heat cycles, the engine perked up very nicely.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

Same, my Tecumseh 8hp bogging down was due to incorrect air/fuel mixture. It ran rich. It is now a beast with the correct air/fuel mixture.


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