# JD 832 Purchase



## SHVLHEAD (Feb 12, 2017)

Good afternoon, wanted to get some opinions on a recent purchase and guage by reaction if I paid too much. I really wasnt in the market for another blower but I like to browse just to see whats available and what asking prices are. I came across an older JD 832 which seemed to be in good condition based on the pictures provided. Upon inspection I discovered that it is a 1977 model and the seller inherited the unit from his father who was the original owner. I was really surprised that the only blemishes on the unit are surface rust on the chrome handlebars and a rusted scraper bar. The inside of the bucket is what you would expect from a 40+ yo machine...worn paint and scrathes but no dents, and the impellar blades were not bent. I got nervous when I saw grade 5 bolts in place of the shear bolts but removed them and both augers moved freely. Everything seems to be checking out and now Im getting worried to find something really bad. I was informed that the HM80 hadnt been started in a few years so a gave a few pulls on the starter rope...it turned over nicely and with a good amount a compression...so far, so good. 

I didnt have the time to do a thorough inspection and regret not starting the engine but there were no holes in the side of the block from a wayward rod so I felt comfortable shooting him a price of $50. We eventually agreed upon a price of $75 and I am happy with that. Even if the engine wont start I am pretty mechanically savvy and have the confidence to bring to life if needed. There were other areas that I neglected to look over due to time constraints (belts, pullys, trans etc.), but again at that price I was willing to take a gamble and I have experience with older machines having restored an '78 Ariens ST832 last year...I may even be able to re-purpose some parts. 

Your opinions and feedback are welcome. Too much...good price or meh?

Thanks
Stone


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Seems like a good price to me! For $75 you got a big ol' 32" bucket, and tires with chains. And if the engine runs, beautiful, then you got a great deal! 



And even if the engine is a goner, you could re-power it (though my preference would be to go >8 hp, given the width of the bucket!). But if there's no hole in the block, and it has compression, I'll bet you can get it running. Worst-case, maybe you simply replace the carb with one of the $15 eBay specials. 



Then go through belts, etc, to get it all ready for winter.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I have a 1032, identical but the engine. 

Some problems.

Hard to get parts for, parts are becoming slim, and expensive because they are only through a John Deere dealer.

The chute is too short so it doesn't throw far. It needs to be cut in half and lengthened 12"-15" .

You need an impeller kit, big space in the blades.

The handles are weak, keep the bolts tight and preferably add additional support.

Remove the chute base, clean any rust and smear with lithium grease, graphite paste, or synthetic grease.

Drill, tap, and install 4 zerk fittings in the auger.

Take the wheels off and grease the contact point using synthetic grease or above.

You have a strong cast iron gearbox, change the oil in it, use John Deere oil. I think it has something to do with additives, need sulfur? Or don't need sulfur?

The friction disk is real easy to change. Check the condition of it.

Use John Deere branded drive and auger belts, they are the same numbers.


----------



## SHVLHEAD (Feb 12, 2017)

Great advice guys...thank you. Still havent been able to do anything with the old girl, but it is on my agenda for the weekend.

JLawrence08648, you seem to be a subject matter expert on Deere snowblowers, maybe you can clarify but I read on an earlier thread in this JD forum that Deere did not place shear pins/bolts in the augers of these earlier models, that a standard bolt (soft bolt - grade 3) was used. This would certainly make sense considering my earlier statement that the augers on my recent purchase were secured with bolts. The bolts and washers were painted yellow as if they were original equipment. I am not saying that I agree with the practice and I will certainly use shear bolts, I was just curious to know if this was accurate. On another note, I found it odd that there were no grease fittings on the augers so I will take your advice of adding.

If others can confirm the feedback ia appreciated.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

SHVLHEAD said:


> JLawrence08648, you seem to be a subject matter expert on Deere snowblowers, maybe you can clarify but I read on an earlier thread in this JD forum that Deere did not place shear pins/bolts in the augers of these earlier models, that a standard bolt (soft bolt - grade 3) was used. This would certainly make sense considering my earlier statement that the augers on my recent purchase were secured with bolts. The bolts and washers were painted yellow as if they were original equipment. I am not saying that I agree with the practice and I will certainly use shear bolts, I was just curious to know if this was accurate. On another note, I found it odd that there were no grease fittings on the augers so I will take your advice of adding.


I also find it odd zerk fittings were not installed, but they are easy and cheap to install. Because of the width, I put two 1/4" on each side.

When l bought my John Deere 1032 for $50, I was surprised it needed work as it was owned by a John Deere dealer that closed due to retirement. He had a truck with a plow, tractors with front loaders, and this snowblower. He used the snowblower to only clear in front of the door and single garage door. He had no sidewalk. It needed a carb cleaning, handle bar bolts tightened, some were missing, adjustment to the drive rod, replacement of the belts, and there were the Grade 3 auger bolts. I thought best to replace those with specific grooved shear pins, 5/16" if I recall correctly, and they were longer than "average". However, you can cut the grooves in Grade 3 bolts. Just be careful the grooves are cut in the right place at the auger shear point.


----------



## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> I also find it odd zerk fittings were not installed, but they are easy and cheap to install. Because of the width, I put two 1/4" on each side.
> 
> When l bought my John Deere 1032 for $50, I was surprised it needed work as it was owned by a John Deere dealer that closed due to retirement. He had a truck with a plow, tractors with front loaders, and this snowblower. He used the snowblower to only clear in front of the door and single garage door. He had no sidewalk. It needed a carb cleaning, handle bar bolts tightened, some were missing, adjustment to the drive rod, replacement of the belts, and there were the Grade 3 auger bolts. I thought best to replace those with specific grooved shear pins, 5/16" if I recall correctly, and they were longer than "average". However, you can cut the grooves in Grade 3 bolts. Just be careful the grooves are cut in the right place at the auger shear point.


Too funny about the dealer not maintaining his own equipment. I guess he just was too lazy to fix his own stuff. Can't make it up!


----------



## SHVLHEAD (Feb 12, 2017)

While going through the unit i came across a tag attached to the block of the HM80. It was painted yellow so i tried to clean it off the best i could. Has anyone come across this before or know what it is for? My best guess...based upon the serial number, is back in the mid 80's the original short block succumbed to oil deprivation and a new one was used. A tell tale sign is that the engine was repainted.

I simply attached in back where i found it. Any help would be appreciated


----------

