# My Craftsman's gear box/ impeller/ bucket & chute & Friction wheel



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

My serial number is in my signature too, though you have to click on it to see it.
Craftsman #536886141(Around 2000?)
5 Horse, Tecumseh HSSK50-67392S
22" Dual Stage

I noticed that I had too much play with my impeller. Some shiny marks were in side the housing so it must have scrapped at one point.
I thought it may have been the bearing on the shaft inside by the auger pully, but that bearing looks good. ( looks like new for the age)

I now think it is in the gear box itself. I guess the only thing in there are the two bearings that would create play if they were shot?
The impeller worm shaft has no play at all where it goes into the box.
The auger shaft itself has play, too much if you ask me, I think that is my problem.

I have never been in the gear box what should I look out for? EDIT......GEARS/BEARING/WASHERS/OIL SEALS
Anyone have pictures of the inside of a Craftsman gear box? EDIT.......I POSTED A FEW HERE.
What oil is used in the gear box? EDIT.......NO "OIL" IN MINE THERE IS A WHITE LITINUM HEAVY GREASE LIKE LUBE.
I guess the one big screw on the box is the fill screw? ( I will see that when I get inside)  EDIT.....YES
I never looked for oil in the box since I had this since there are no leaks. ( Year is estimated at 2000)
Do you check in yours if there are no leaks?
I guess you fill it up to the bottom of the hole like most fill plugs? EDIT.....YES BUT THIS ONE HAD A WHITE LITINUM GREASE. YOU PACK THEN PUT GEARCASE BACK TOGETHER AND ADD THRU THE FILLER HOLE.

I have it all off, but didn't touch the box yet.
Some pictures of the inside of the gear box if you have them might help me a little.  EDIT.....POSTED SOME HERE.
I guess there is no need to tear apart the impeller off it's shaft? EDIT....NO NEED IF EVERTHING IS GOOD, MINE WAS NICE AND TIGHT.

I do need the 2 bucket bearings for the shaft, I don't know why they are listed as a bearing as they look more like a plastic bushing.   EDIT..............

Thanks in advance.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

OK, I dove in and opened the gear box. There is some brass shavings but the gear looks good yet.
I guess the shavings are from the looseness I feel? But the worm gears don't look all torn up.
The bearings? Ha Ha Ha, looks like a bushing to me? They look good no play.
Lubricant inside, looks like white lithium grease.
The impeller shaft rod looks good too, the ha ha ha bearing ( that looks like a bushing) is tight.
Looks like the auger shaft end flange bearing ( looks like a bushing too) are shot.
Why the hell do they make them plastic ! I see that newer machines are made of metal.
I don't see why they don't actually use a roller bearing?

So..........all I am going to do is clean it all up nice and add fresh grease and 2 new flange bearings to the auger shaft.

The one bearing on the end of the impeller shaft has a straight side to it, I have to figure out how that goes in.

THE CULPRIT. THESE, ONE EACH SIDE. PLASTIC ! B/S !












ONE SIDE OF THE GEAR BOX. THAT IS THE BEARING. NOTICE THE BRASS SHAVINGS.











THE OTHER SIDE I KNOW THE AUGER SHAFT NEEDS GREASE. NOTICE THE BRASS SHAVINGS.











THE GEAR ON THE AUGER SHAFT












THE IMPELLER SHAFT












THE (COUGH COUGH COUGH) BEARING ON THE END.
GOT TO FIGUE OUT WHICH WAY THE STRAIGHT SIDE ON IT GOES IN THE BOX.
tomorrow 













They do recommend servicing the gear box every so often, once I get this cleaned and serviced I should be good for another 20 years.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> Why the hell do they make them plastic ! I see that newer machines are made of metal


$$$cost$$$


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

ed
look good at the case sides you can see the flat machined or cast in, esp.in photo 3 . install the bushing first


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I've replaced the bushings in a few auger gearboxes, not difficult at all to do, though I recommend using the paper seal when reassembling vs. using rtv. On those plastic bushings, I've put out a thread on how I've replaced both auger and drive axel plastic bushings with roller bearings. Been doing that for about 10 years now and they're still going strong. I've never found a suitable plastic replacement for the oem ones. Just some comments.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

captchas said:


> ed
> look good at the case sides you can see the flat machined or cast in, esp.in photo 3 . install the bushing first


Yep, I figured that out. Gearbox back together. Waiting to go back in. Got to wait on the auger shaft Flange bearings to come from Jack's.
You have to get all 4 bearings just right and the case pops right together. Thanks


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Are you tempted to install an impeller kit?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

HCBPH said:


> I've replaced the bushings in a few auger gearboxes, not difficult at all to do, though I recommend using the paper seal when reassembling vs. using rtv. On those plastic bushings, I've put out a thread on how I've replaced both auger and drive axel plastic bushings with roller bearings. Been doing that for about 10 years now and they're still going strong. I've never found a suitable plastic replacement for the oem ones. Just some comments.


Instead of me searching would you have a link?
With the old format I would find it fairly quick, not so with the new format.
Thanks,
They should have done that when the manufactured them. 

My bucket had a little rust down by the scraper bar and inside the impeller housing.
Not much, but a start. I had a can of Krylon black primer and top coat in one. I hit it with some paint.
I have a whole bunch of different colored paint but no gray. I used to get free items wherever I delivered my chemicals.
I was not bashful about taking them too, if they didn't have any on the free take shelf I would ask them to go look for a damaged box.
90% of the places I delivered to had a take it shelf. 

So I cleaned it up and wiped it down with 200 proof ethanol, drinking kind I got from our plant. As our sample bottles for loads sat for a few months then got tossed.
I was saving them the cost of getting rid of stuff. The ethanol comes in handy while working on things. Free too.

So I hit the inside lower half with the black. Once I have the augers in you won't really see it anyway.
And I gave her a little protection from rusting out anymore.
My chute, around 20 years old took a little paint at the bottom but the rest looks new. I have waxed that before a few times with Mothers wax.
Maybe that helped.
The outside of the bucket is good, as I do wax that once and a while too.
At 20 years old can I call it a Classic? 

I would like to make something for on the top of the bucket to raise the height when the snow is tall.
As a tall snow storm it will blow but a lot goes over the top of the bucket all onto the machine, I want to make something that is easy to get on and off.
My bucket right now is only around 18 1/2' tall.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Zavie said:


> Are you tempted to install an impeller kit?


I was thinking about it, but I never really had a problem throwing the snow.
If it is all slush I don't even attempt to blow. Wet snow it does all right.
I think I will leave it as is.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

On the question of the paper seal, it can depend on the model of blower. I can tell you right now my blowers are older and yours and don't have the gearbox brace in them. Best suggestion if you have the manual is look up the parts diagram. If you don't have a manual, look up the model number online and go from there looking up the parts.
For example a 536-881800 blower had a part of 51279 but that one likely won't fit my blowers. Best to get the right one in the first place.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

HCBPH said:


> On the question of the paper seal, it can depend on the model of blower. I can tell you right now my blowers are older and yours and don't have the gearbox brace in them. Best suggestion if you have the manual is look up the parts diagram. If you don't have a manual, look up the model number online and go from there looking up the parts.
> For example a 536-881800 blower had a part of 51279 but that one likely won't fit my blowers. Best to get the right one in the first place.


Thanks.............I didn't ask about the paper seal? I guess your talking about the gasket for the gear case?
I did ask you to post a link to your thread about you replacing the plastic auger flange bearings with roller bearings?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I came across this old thread HSS + HS Honda Snow Blower Bucket Height Extenders Now...
There is a deflector sold for Honda's in there that is what I am trying to make.
I want to make something that is fairly easy for on and off. 
Something like this but it doesn't have to be as elaborate.
Anyone know of a good material to use besides sheet metal?
A heavy plastic that bends a little might work? 

I need a little more height for the larger drifts, keeps all the snow off the machine and me.
But I want to make it for easy on and off, so when I need it I will just toss it on real quick.
Most of the time I won't need it.

Better yet anyone know of a manufacturer of these for different machines? Or a Universal deflector for different buckets?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> I was thinking about it, but I never really had a problem throwing the snow.
> If it is all slush I don't even attempt to blow. Wet snow it does all right.
> I think I will leave it as is.


since you got it apart you are probably better off to do the mod anyways while your in there. drilling holes in the impeller is usually the hardest part which is a lot easier with the impeller out of the machine. i found the impeller mod helped a lot when dealling with wet slushy snow. heck my machine has been able to throw water since doing the impeller mod.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

crazzywolfie said:


> since you got it apart you are probably better off to do the mod anyways while your in there. drilling holes in the impeller is usually the hardest part which is a lot easier with the impeller out of the machine. i found the impeller mod helped a lot when dealling with wet slushy snow. heck my machine has been able to throw water since doing the impeller mod.


I don't think you could drill holes unless you have the impeller out? 
No way to drill when it is together.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Big Ed said:


> I came across this old thread HSS + HS Honda Snow Blower Bucket Height Extenders Now...
> There is a deflector sold for Honda's in there that is what I am trying to make.
> I want to make something that is fairly easy for on and off.
> Something like this but it doesn't have to be as elaborate.
> ...



View attachment 169576



This Toro for sale has extenders, maybe you can get some ideas from the photos?









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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Thanks, yeah I am thinking. smoke, smoke, grind, grind. 
I want to make the on/off easy as I would not use that unless we get that purrfect storm with drifts.
This year it is supposed to be another mild season here in Jersey.
But I have no faith in weather forecasters !


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Go down to your local metal store and see what they've got. Around here we have Alro Metals.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Zavie said:


> Go down to your local metal store and see what they've got. Around here we have Alro Metals.


The local metal store?  
I have to search that.

I was thinking about an old bug hood deflector off a vehicle made into a height raiser.
Or maybe all I need is some homemade drift bars.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I found a few quart cans of paint I have up in the cabinet. I picked them up here and there when working/delivering......... Free
Metallic Silver, I got a couple cans at a place that makes paint for Ships. I was told some of the paint is $500 per gallon & plus.
I don't know but I have 2 quart cans. I have an Eagle weathervane I am restoring and will use that on the mounting rod. My Eagle, I will make a thread. 
I had a little rust here and there so I painted it with one of my model paint brushes.
Cleaned it up and hand painted 3 coats on. I do have an airbrush but didn't feel like pulling it out.
It may not look pretty but it will be protected a bit longer. 
With its all together you can't see in there anyway.
Maybe next year I will paint it.
I still have to buff the bucket using Mothers. Inside and outside.
Chute and outside will get it too, I have 2 small spots touched up with the silver on the outside.
The silver is bright. Can't see it in the picture.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> I don't think you could drill holes unless you have the impeller out?
> No way to drill when it is together.


where there is a will there is a way. how do you think most people do the impeller mod? it sucks taking the chute off and doing the impeller mod through the output but it is possible. either way you are still better off to drill the holes for for it now even if you don't do it. it is way easier to bolt rubber pads to the impeller if the holes are already there. heck even if you just did the impeller mod to just 2 of the 4 blades i bet you would notice a difference. i did 2 of the 4 blades on this thing last year and it was the difference between me parting this thing out and actually using it. the thing would only throw snow about 6-8ft without the impeller mod and now throws it about 16ft and it is nearly impossible to clog. i went through the impeller output.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

On the question of converting to roller bearings, check out; Plastic bushings to bearings


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I have it all together? Done, with a paper seal ( gasket). I do have the part number and manual that lists it.

You said that you have a THREAD on swapping out the flange bearings with ROLLER BEARINGS that you posted here.
I was asking for a link to THAT thread?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

HCBPH said:


> On the question of converting to roller bearings, check out; Plastic bushings to bearings


THANKS, that is what I wanted.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I put the auger assembly back in with the new bearings. Everything is nice and tight now like it should be.
Greased the inside, cleaned the friction plate up, took the tires off and cleaned/greased up the axle.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

My Craftsman is done, ready for snow. Fired right up.
The Snowbird too, fired that right up also.
Both ready to go, now watch I won't get any snow.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

we wish ed

sometimes you get i don't even being in the coldest part of nj, than we get snow you get rain .nice work on both


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

captchas said:


> we wish ed
> 
> sometimes you get i don't even being in the coldest part of nj, than we get snow you get rain .nice work on both


I want some nice fluffy snow. 
When I was working I would leave at 2 am in snow. 
By the time I got home and most the snow would be ice.
We seem to get a nice storm, purrrfect snow, then the last 30 mins it will change to rain.
Then freeze.
This year I am ready, since I am not working I will be home.
Instead of battling accidents and fruit loop drivers I will be blowing snow.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I have a small seepage leak of gas from the screw hole on the gas tank. I only see a 1/8 of an inch crack with my eye. The camera extended it to an inch, it looks like.
So epoxy it will be............has anyone ever use Seal All plastic repair? Or will JB weld hold up against the gas?
JB is cheaper, don't know about it holding up to gas. Seal All says good for gasoline.
What does everyone think?
I am NOT buying a new Tank! The cheapest is 35 bucks. 
And anyway, I want to keep the machine all original. 😎


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Big Ed said:


> Or will JB weld hold up against the gas?


I use JB Weld Plastic Bonder for stuff like that; I used it on a broken gas tank gauge cap on my pontoon boat last year and it seemed to hold up to the gas just fine, but I have not used it on the actual gas tank yet.








Amazon.com: J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml : Everything Else


Amazon.com: J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml : Everything Else



www.amazon.com





I have used Seal All and it requires a super clean surface to really seal. It breaks down after a while in sunlight so it was not a good solution for my boat fuel tanks.


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

I used on the plastic fuel tank on my riding mower. No leak for at least 6+ years.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

tabora said:


> I use JB Weld Plastic Bonder for stuff like that; I used it on a broken gas tank gauge cap on my pontoon boat last year and it seemed to hold up to the gas just fine, but I have not used it on the actual gas tank yet.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


OK, thanks
How long does it hold up in the tube after you use it?
I will only need a little bit.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

CO Snow said:


> View attachment 193336
> View attachment 193336
> I used on the plastic fuel tank on my riding mower. No leak for at least 6+ years.


Thanks to you too, same question, how long is the shelf life after you use it?


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Big Ed said:


> Thanks to you too, same question, how long is the shelf life after you use it?


Don’t know. My single use solved the problem so I haven’t needed it since then.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Big Ed said:


> How long does it hold up in the tube after you use it?


I've had it last for a couple of years. I use it a lot to repair laptop components. The double-seal cap rotates 90 degrees to seal both sides of the syringe, and I'm always careful to immediately seal it after dispensing the components before mixing and applying them.

That stuff that @CO Snow posted looks very promising!


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

CO Snow said:


> View attachment 193336
> View attachment 193336
> I used on the plastic fuel tank on my riding mower. No leak for at least 6+ years.


That is like a putty? You roll it to consistency then apply? Or is it a 2 part putty you roll together?
If so and it is sealed good it will last a while.
I had some 2 apart epoxy putty like that when it first came out way back when. It lasted a long time before it turned to rock.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Fuel tank repair done, PLASTIC FUEL TANK REPAIR.

I dropped the belly pan to look around, in the picture you see the wear on my friction wheel, the camera brings it out, with reading glasses on you can hardly see it. 
It is the original wheel with over 20 years of use on it. It looks like they put wear marks on this wheel, second picture shows them. There are 4 around the wheel.
My new wheel which is a B&S original wheel has none?
Anyone ever notice some kind of wear markers on their new wheels? Old ones?

The rest of the rubber looks and measures almost the same as the new one, except that one spot with the cracks. 

Not bad for over 20 years of use. 

On to installing a new wheel. 
Might as well, I have one. 😎 












JUST TO EACH SIDE OF THE SHADOW YOU CAN SEE THE WEAR MARKERS i AM SEEING.













THE REPLACEMENMT BAG.












THE ORIGINAL WHEEL BELOW IS MARKED WITH THIS NUMBER.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

The new wheel in, no easy task, looks and sounds easy but you could use a third hand when putting it back together,
I could not find any video's or pictures that have my setup, none look like mine.










This is what they say to do,
Take off the 3 bolts for the friction wheel,
Take off the 4 bolts for the bearing/bushings.
Then they say pull out the whole unit put the new friction wheel on. 
Now when you go to put it together it is a pain in the you know what,
Trying to get the chain back on the shaft gear while making sure all your washers stay put s ucks.
Chain kept wanting to jump off while I was trying to put it back together.










I watched a bunch of videos on different machines but could not find any that look like my setup.
Even Donnie boy does not have any like mine. 

I forgot to take pictures of it out, my hands were too greasy to shoot anyway.
Don't matter.

New wheel in now, those pictures are not the final product, I cleaned things up more since they were shot.
I do notice a smoother operation now, if it snows next year I will see how it all works. 
If it snows, chitty season here, really only used it once. 😎


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The innards of that machine are spotless, obviously a well cared for and maintained snow blower Ed.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> The innards of that machine are spotless, obviously a well cared for and maintained snow blower Ed.


Thanks, I try. 
The camera picks up a lot of rust here and there.
The pulleys rust easy, maybe the only way to treat that is to remove them and paint?
The one chain sprocket bolt seeps rust all the time too.


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