# Honda hs724tcd control cable



## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

This is my first post, so here goes. First off, what a excellent site.


This is directed to [email protected]


I have a Canadian 2009 version of the HS724 electric start track blower. 2 dealers have given me 24150-V13-000, as the proper part number for the cable change (controls forward and reverse) and it does appear to match my old existing cable. However when I install it as per the Honda service manual, the control lever is no where near centered in the neutral position. I have misadjusted, the clamping nuts and have a working unit, but wonder were I went wrong. 


As per the procedures, I have the cable installed with the proper end as suggested. Observed the mounting distance at the transmission end. As well as the proper hole connection on the Control lever.


Any one, feel free to offer suggestions.....Thanks


Robert do you have access to the Canadian service manuals and or part numbers. I can supply more details if you are able to assist.


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## xenon55 (Dec 31, 2017)

I couldn't find access to any Canadian parts catalog to try and look it up myself and I'm unsure what US model would be the same, but I'll give you a few things to check. Btw I've been in parts for about 25 years starting out at a motorcycle dealer (Japanese and Italian) then moving to automotive (German and Japanese). I'm currently the parts mgr at a high volume Japanese dealer. 

First check the original cable for a part number. Most manufacturers will have it written on the sheathing and occasionally stamped into it. Does it match the new cable? Does the part number on the new cable match the label on the bag? It's rare for something to be mislabeled/misboxed, but it does happen. The manufacturer is relying on a supplier to produce and label the part correctly, which doesn't always happen. I had two different parts this week that were labeled wrong. I had to contact the manufacturer's parts help line because I had multiples of the same special order part boxed wrong. They had to check stock in their warehouses before they found a correct one for me. They also found more incorrect ones. If everything checks out, your local dealer needs to call to have someone check into why the part is wrong.

Why are you replacing the cable? Have you compared the lengths of the cables? Not just overall length, but the travel of each cable. Are you able to set the adjustments on the new cable to match the old cable and see how the lever is? I looked up a photo of the part number that you've been trying to get to work and see that it has two adjustments. Does one end of the cable need to be adjusted before the other? Rereading your post it seems that you have adjusted both ends.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

<p>XENON55, thanks for your response. The original cable broke right @ the eyelet for the clutch lever end and my new cable matches the total length as well as the 2 measurements given for the adjustable mounting ends, ie the 2.6"(67mm) and the 2.25"(57mm).


The reason, I posted this to Robert, I was wondering if he had access to the Canadian manuals
.
What I find strange is the part # given to me by 2 different Canadian dealers is 24150-V13-000 which is the one I am using, were as the USA parts listing I see calls for 24150-767-A10, which is a different length cable but has the above mentioned correct ends on it.


My service manual P/N 6176861E4, starting on page 14-12, tells you to connect the shortest metal fitting(57mm) to the clutch arm side and then clamp it the mounting bracket 1.6" from the metal fitting end. Manual then says on page 14-13, to move the shift lever forward against the stop with 4mm clearance and connect the cable to the lever. Take out the slack pulling towards the tranny and tighten the lock nuts. When I do this, my lever is not centered in the neutral position or do I have full forward and reverse movement.


I have readjusted the locking nuts at the lever end and now have the lever centered at the neutral position and the tranny in neutral. I have put a note in my shop manual, with the measurement that I am using for the lock nuts at the lever end for future reference.


The cable end at the clutch lever end is installed as per the manual. It boils down to, if I had installed the cable by the book for the clutch lever end but was missing the page for the lever end, I would be happy, as I have it centered in the neutral position as well as the tranny in neutral, its just I don't believe its adjusted as per the manual. Hope this is too confusing.....


I should have added, that due to the age of the original cable, I did not have the packing material.....


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

This is an update to my cable change. After a few weeks of regular snow falls, the unit is working top notch. I had the opportunity last night to use a 2017 version..... I much prefer my 2009 version....thks


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

That's interesting that you liked it better than the HSS. For those that may be curious, can I ask what you like better about the HS?

Trigger steering on the HSS sounds pretty nice to me, and in general people seem to like electric chute controls.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

REDOCTOBYR


Being north of 70, maybe its a "don't like change thing" My 2009 HS724TCD (Canadian version with on board 12 volt start) is a real gem.


Mine is faster in both F and R than the HSS, appears more powerful, I just hear the governor take over, the HSS appears to bog down a bit.


I haven't compared the weight specs but the HSS seems heavier.


The easy steer adds 2 more levers to deal with and I don't have a problem on snowy concrete driveway to make turns with the HS , and I cheat at the end of each blow, I back my HS on to a 4 swivel caster cart to roll around in my crowded garage.


However, the HSS appears to be a great machine, but I just like my HS for the above reasons.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Thank you, it's interesting to learn more about them. 

There is a lot of talk about the HSS engines running a little lean from the factory, due to emissions requirements. People have been installing larger carburetor jets, and getting more power from the engines. 

I can understand appreciating faster speeds in F and R. I do sometimes clear using my blower's fastest speed, so if that was reduced, it would be kind of limiting. 

I've only owned wheeled blowers, I use chains. I'd like to try tracks at some point. But I appreciate how easy it is to turn my differential-equipped machine, vs my previous (and lighter) solid-axle machine. So I like the idea of systems (like triggers) to make turning easier, while also keeping full 2WD traction while blowing. 

No one would ever say it's cheating to use a wheeled dolly. That's just good planning!


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

REDOCTOBYR


Something like " too soon old, too late smart" .... I try to make life easy.


BTW, since my last post, I compared the weight difference, from my research, it looks like the HSS is approx 60 lbs heavier than the HS, everything else being the same , both 724s, with the on board 12 volt start and I should add, that also includes the joy stick electric chute, which I really like.


As earlier stated, both are great machines...:smile2::smile2:


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