# What Maintenance do you Do on a Snowblower



## pckeen (Nov 13, 2014)

OK, so what routine maintenance do you do on a snowblower? With my old blower, now defunct, I ran it dry to winterize it and changed the oil each spring. I'll be buying a new Ariens, but what preventative maintenance do you users who have your new....10...20....30....40 year old snowblowers do to keep them running year after year? Lubrication? Waxing? Belt replacement?


----------



## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Use Stabil fuel treatment.....you can't beat it.....prevents the needle valves from sticking during the time your not using the engine. Fill the tank to the top to prevent moisture from forming inside of the fuel tank,,also when your not using it. 

Be Happy !!


----------



## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Spray fogging oil into the combustion chamber prior to storage
Give it the once-over with the power washer
Keep the wire disconnected from the spark plug
Drain and fill the oil
Maintain tire pressure
Use fresh and treated fuel
Grease the augers
Replace rusted hardware
Keep the internals greased up
Check/replace the bushings for the axle and auger
Treat any rust
Start the motor every now and then during its storage
Install a fuel filter and shut off valve


----------



## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

change the oil to a synthetic in the engine, fresh oil in the gearbox, run the carb dry of gas, shut the petcock off, and preferably drain the tank too. 
the best rust prevention is spray the machine with a light coat of oil, or wipe it down with an oily rag

if you put synthetic in the engine you don't have to change the oil every year. more like every 5 years or more.


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Or you can just kind of clean it off a little and push it to the back of the shed and glance at it from time to time during the summer months. Another route to take is to push it under your deck and cover it with a plastic tarp and forget about it till the first snow of the next season. 

Of course this is couched in sarcasm but lots of people do these things then ask why in the dickens won't it start or operate properly?
Then sometimes you can do all the right things, fogging, dry storage, empty carb, etc.... And you get it out well before the first snow only to find it won't run etc. But at least you know you did the right thing and diagnosis will be easier. 
If you're a little savvy wbout how things operate common sense will get you a long way.


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

I have a '71 Ariens, this will be my 7th winter with it.
I always use seafoam in the gas, every time I use it.
In the spring I drain the gas from the tank, and remove the carb bowl to make sure the carb is also free of gas..I leave it disassembled for a few days to let any remaining gas evaporate away, then put the bowl back on. I *dont* change the oil in the Spring, although there is nothing wrong with doing it that way.

In late October or early November I prep it for the upcoming season.

1. Drain out the old oil. I wire a funnel to the drain tube, into an empty milk jug, and let the oil drip out for 24 hours or so, just to make sure as much as possible is out.

2. Put a tag on the handlebars that says "NO OIL!"  I dont always do this, but I should..there are known stories of guys doing their spring (or fall) snowblower prep, getting everything done, *forgetting* they haven't added new oil yet! and starting up the machine..

3. Tip her up into "service position", (I leave the engine oil out for this step, and no gas in the tank, so it wont drip out anywhere.)










remove the bottom cover, and lube anything that moves with white lithium grease.
cover the friction disk with a rag to prevent grease from getting on the disk.
bolt the cover back on, and tip her back on the wheels.

4. remove the shear pins from the augers, use a grease gun to push grease into the auger grease zerks, spin the augers to distribute the grease, put the shear bolts back.

5. Check the oil level in the gear case. (mine never loses oil, its always full..IMO this is not something that needs to be replaced *every* year, maybe every 2nd or 3rd year..that one is a judgement call.)

6. Check the tire pressure, add air if necesary.

7. Lube the handlebar cables with light oil. I also lube the other end of the throttle cable at the carb, and put a drop of oil on the various moving bits of the carb linkages, move the throttle lever back and forth to see what moves. I bought an antique oil can on ebay! the kind you press on the bottom to make the oil come out..I think it was 5 bucks..I fill it with the same engine oil I use in the snowblower.










8. Add new engine oil, check for the correct level with the dipstick...add or remove oil as necessary..(I have over-filled before and have to remove some!)

9. Add fresh gas, turn on the gas shut-off valve if you have one.

10. Start her up! check all systems. If all is good, put her back in the garage and she is ready for the first snow.

I have a more detailed list here that I made a few years ago, for doing maintenance in the spring..it lists the major steps, although I dont follow this exact procedure anymore:

The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.

Here is a good video, and there are several more on youtube:






donyboy73 is THE man on youtube, his channel is awesome:
https://www.youtube.com/user/donyboy73

Scot


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I've'always said take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. I know that's not original but it's true.


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

I have a toro 824 model 38080 with a honda gx 200 clone. I drain the fuel before off season storage, check the belts, grease the augers and the shift linkage in the tractor assembly. in late fall i change the oil, add gas, and pull the cord once and smile as the engine starts on the first pull. then I test all of the functions like the augers and transmission. i then turn the fuel cutoff to the off position and allow it to burn off the fuel in the carb. i then store it and park it until i need it.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

It's been pretty much covered. It's just a matter of keeping an eye on it. Literally looking it over every so often and lubing anything you can and keeping it clean and wax when you can.
I'm a fan of Stabil Marine (Marine because it handles moisture better) and I add it to every batch of gas just in case I do forget to drain something. I prefer to empty the fuel tank and run the carb dry if I remember.


----------



## guybb3 (Jan 31, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I'm a fan of Stabil Marine (Marine because it handles moisture better) and I add it to every batch of gas just in case I do forget to drain something.


I am such a fan of this stuff. I have a boat and jet skis and this stuff keeps them from getting gunked up.


----------



## EarthWindandFire (Nov 11, 2014)

1). Use Trufuel and only Trufuel and fill tank all the way.
Note: This is an ethanol free gas and is 92 octane.

2). Apply Dielectric grease where needed.
Note: A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. 

3). Spray Marvel Mystery Oil directly into the combustion chamber. 

4). Wax all painted surfaces.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Trufuel might work for you but at around 23 bucks a gallon I go through too much of it to be worth it's benefit.
I can get straight 100% gas and even if I'm using the 10% ethanol stuff I just end up running it dry come spring and haven't had carb problems on my stuff. I do mix some stabil in with each fill of the fuel can.

TruFuel 4-Cycle Ethanol-Free Fuel (6-Pack)-6527238 at The Home Depot


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i like mmo and star tron for fuel stabilization


----------



## EarthWindandFire (Nov 11, 2014)

After some research about Trufuel, I did find that you can order from Home Depot two cases of twelve quart cans for $ 70.00 dollars total which includes free shipping direct to your home. This makes each quart about $ 5.83 which is better than full price.


----------



## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

I use Seafoam like Franks Hot Sauce. I put that [email protected]#$ in everything. Being an owner of a dozen (give or take)small engines at any given time it a pain to fog,winterize,or store machinery. When Im positive I wont be using it for a while I use Strar Tron. 
A couple questions I have for you wise ones. A couple people mentioned checking air pressure. How much air pressure should i have in a 16x6.5-8 tires. It on a heavy 10000 serious Ariens 32 inch bucket. Im running it at 6lbs now. Is that to low will the bead come off at that psi during heavy use? I have yet to blow with these wheels. Im looking for maximum traction due to an incline in my driveway. 
Aslo one had mentioned pulling wire off of plug. What is the purpose of that. Ive never heard of anyone doing that.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

There is a recommended pressure on the sidewall. I don't know what it is off hand.


----------



## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

The side wall will give you the max air pressure. I dont want to run max, but minimal air pressure for best traction with no adverse effect. Like bead bonding issues.


----------



## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

guilateen02 said:


> Aslo one had mentioned pulling wire off of plug. What is the purpose of that. Ive never heard of anyone doing that.


I'm assuming you're referring to me on this one...
It's just something that I have always done when putting my machines into storage. I guess it's more of a safety aspect. I have a ten year old living in this same house, so I know that if he decides to fool around with the machinery while no one is looking it won't start. It give me peace of mind. 
In addition to that, there may be a time when I go to work on the machine and forget to actually disconnect the wire; this is my insurance when I become forgetful.


----------



## cub cadet 3x (Nov 2, 2014)

would there be any benefit of adding Sta-Bil or sea foam to the fuel while using the snow blower during the winter i intend to run the machine till it's empty at winters end so won't be needing to add a product to fuel at seasons end but would it be ok to add to fuel during the season temperatures up here can go as low as minus 40 for a few days or a week normally in the minus 20-25 area


----------



## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

cub cadet 3x said:


> would there be any benefit of adding Sta-Bil or sea foam to the fuel while using the snow blower during the winter i intend to run the machine till it's empty at winters end so won't be needing to add a product to fuel at seasons end but would it be ok to add to fuel during the season temperatures up here can go as low as minus 40 for a few days or a week normally in the minus 20-25 area


Stabil is junk. And yes, running some Sefoam and or Starton would be a good ide. I use PriG stabilizer and Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in my gas.


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Motor City said:


> Stabil is junk. And yes, running some Sefoam and or Starton would be a good ide. I use PriG stabilizer and Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in my gas.


I dont think its fair or accurate to say Stabil is "junk"..
it certainty works..it's probably the most popular fuel stabilizer sold, by far. 
people wouldnt use it if it didnt work at all..

but..I have been doing a lot of reading on this topic over the past few years,
and many people do consider Seafoam and PRI-G to be _better_ that Stabil..
but that doesn't mean Stabil is junk..Stabil is perfectly fine for short-term gas storage, 
6-months or less..for most homeowners, gas doesnt stick around that long anyway..

also, you will find different needs among different types of equipment..which impacts the internet discussion on this topic.
boaters and farmers have different gas storage needs, and storage amounts, than homeowners..
I think this is were a lot of "this is better than this" comes in..it depends on your needs! 

And there is also a lot of "brand loyalty" in this area..its a Chevy vs. Ford thing..
people are "sold" on their favorite, and they might be tempted to label anything else as "junk"..
but it usually isnt junk, its just different.

Personally my "brand loyality" has gone to Seafoam, after it actually fixed a leaking carb!

http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/Page11.html#question4

Im sold..I use it in all my mower and snowblower gas now.

Scot


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Let me just run this past my detector.

A product made to stabilize fuel in your opinion is junk but a product that can be added to your fuel or your oil and is touted as a fuel stabilizer, fuel injector cleaner, Carb jet cleaner, control mositure in fuel, can be used in 2 cycle, 4 cycle and Diesel fuel and oil, de-ice and anti-gel, Quiet noisy lifters and a few other things (listed on bottle) is a better product then the stuff specifically formulated to stabilize fuel ??

I'm surprised Seafoam isn't on TV with a really loud animated guy at 2am yelling about how wonderful it is. Kind of reminds me how you can spray paint your head to make it look like you have hair.


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Frog,
im not sure if you were replying to me or Motor City..
If you were responding to me, then yes, I like seafoam, because it actually *worked*
for me personally!  thats why I have picked it as my product of choice.
other people choose different things, for their own personal reasons.
and Seafoam is also a fuel stabilizer.

Scot


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I have a can of Seafoam in the garage next to a bottle of Stabil. I was responding to MotorCity calling Stabil "junk".
There are just too many people who like it, use it and recommend it for it to be considered junk.
BUT his opinion is his opinion and mine is just different.
My untested, unscientific approach just tells me that something that is supposed to do so many things and work in fuel and in oil is compromised in it's make up to do those things and isn't likely to be the best at any one of them. That's just my logic, just my opinion. When I recommend something I usually say why and unless there is some evidence out there (more than the odd story here and there) I don't call a product names. If I do I tell someone why so they have some info to make a choice with.
I have run across a post here and there about Stabil gumming up the inside of a carb with red goo but they are few and far between and I have to wonder how long they let that machine sit with fuel in it. Likely more than a summer or two.
Lots of people use ethanol gas, never use a stabilizer and never have a carb problem. After all it's just a little bit of insurance to hopefully keep you from having to tear your carb down and clean it.
Like I said, I have a can of Seafoam in my garage too so it's not like I have anything against it. I add it to my 5 gal can when I fill up as a fuel cleaner


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I missed the question of why use it during the season. I mix in measured amounts of stabilizer and cleaner each time I run to the gas station as I'm never sure which machine I might use and when it will be used next. If it's season is over (blower, mower, tiller, chainsaw ...) and I forget to drain it I have some protection. I try to store equipment without fuel but I have too many and don't always remember which has what.


----------



## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

I used to use Stabil and back about 10 years ago I did not even get to use my snowmobile during one winter season since we got so little snow in 2003 or so. The next year it was all gummed up and would only run with the choke on and I ended up having to take all 3 carburetors off the XLT since I needed to clean them since they had built up varnish inside the carburetor. Fortunately Gumout carburetor clean it up well and I was up and running after a few hours work. I spoke with a local shop that works on snowmobiles and boat engines and they said that they have had the best results with Sea Foam because in many cases just adding sea foam to the gasoline can clean up the jets in your carburetor while running your engine. Since switching to sea foam I have never had to clean the carburetors again.


----------



## cub cadet 3x (Nov 2, 2014)

*sea foam*

So what is the ratio of sea foam to gas i presume it's marked on the can or ??


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

*Type of Fuel*​ *Recommended Average Mixture*​ *Comments*​ Normal gasoline grades (including 10% and 15% ethanol blends)​ 1 oz. Sea Foam Motor Treatment per gallon of gasoline​ Can mix up to 2 oz. per gallon of gasoline if necessary. Mixing at less than two-thirds oz. per gallon will impair the effectiveness of Sea Foam Motor Treatment.​ Diesel fuel (including low-sulfur and ultra-low-sulfur blends)​ 1 oz. Sea Foam Motor Treatment per gallon of diesel fuel​ Can mix up to 2 oz. per gallon of fuel if necessary. Mixing at less than two-thirds oz. per gallon will impair the effectiveness of Sea Foam Motor Treatment.​ For factory-designed E-85 fuel engines​ 2 oz. Sea Foam Motor Treatment per gallon of gasoline​ 
two-cycle, gas/oil mix fuel engines​ 2 oz. Sea Foam Motor Treatment per gallon of gasoline​


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

I use the 1oz. per gallon ratio.
Seafoam comes in a 16oz metal bottle, so that's 16 gallons of gas it will treat.
I bought a small "measuring glass", about the size of a shot glass, at the grocery store to use with it.

I get Seafoam at K-mart, $10 a bottle.
I have never paid any attention to how much gas I use in a year, between mowing and 
Snowblowing, but I seem to thjnk one bottle of seafoam lasts me more than a year!
So I probably use 10 to 12 gallons a year..I always buy it only one gallon at a time,
So its used up quicker and stays fresher..I probably average a gallon a month, more in the summert
than the winter..

I now use the Seafoam for every use, mowers and snowblowers..
So that's 60 cents a gallon..well worth it to me.

Scot


----------



## quickhitch11 (Nov 1, 2014)

Hi all, 
I have been using something called S E F. Small Engine Fuel. I use it in my snowblower, lawn mower all season, and generator for storage. I purchase it in 5 gallon cans, for about 66 bucks. It has a 2-3 year shelf life, and although a bit pricy it has been flawless in performance. My road bike loves it's first run of the year because it's in there for storage also.
I work as a full time firefighter, and 3 of us do all the maintenance on the fleet including all of our hand tools (saws, jaws etc). When the ethanol showed up we began to have issues like most departments. Last thing you want at a car wreck is a set of jaws that will not start. We came across this stuff at a show, tried it, and have converted ALL of our equipment to it. It has more than proven its worth to us. Again this is just my opinion, and our experience. 
We purchase it straight, 94 octane, and pre mixed 40 to 1, and 50 to 1. 
Just my 2 cents.....Chris


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If you don't go through much gas it might not be a bad idea but at $23 a gallon it's just too expensive for me. 

Sears.com


----------



## cub cadet 3x (Nov 2, 2014)

Thank you everyone for your answers on the sea foam ratio to gas greatly appreciated.


----------



## Buttchet (Mar 5, 2013)

I have switched to StarTron two years ago and have never looked back. works awesome...I put it in my gas and always use it - keeps engine and carb clean and stabilizes for up to 2 years...also treats the ethonal from causing any issue. 
I give a bottle of it away with every small engine I sell and tell them use this or do not call me if it will not start... never had a call back yet about not starting...


----------



## hog'n Honda (Dec 6, 2014)

Awesome thread!!


----------



## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

pckeen said:


> OK, so what routine maintenance do you do on a snowblower? With my old blower, now defunct, I ran it dry to winterize it and changed the oil each spring. I'll be buying a new Ariens, but what preventative maintenance do you users who have your new....10...20....30....40 year old snowblowers do to keep them running year after year? Lubrication? Waxing? Belt replacement?


 
ps- I guess it's just me, but I noticed everyone who gets a snowblower new, before actually even using it, they are somewhat overly concerned about maintenance. I'd concentrate on the actual operation of the machine first, storage and maintenance second. being a new machine it should run a few years without a high degree of service, as the whole reason for buying new in my mind is, not having to work on it, for a few years at least.

I'd be most concerned with it not hitting or ingesting any obstacles, and bending an auger, impeller, shafts, etc.

with an 40 year old machine nothing wagered, nothing lost. if I hit a rock with my 1970 machine, well I only paid $75 for it. no biggie, and I can find repair parts on the cheap.

not so with a new machine- with the cost of these new machines, we're talking high dollar, expensive repairs for parts/labor.


----------



## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

greatwhitebuffalo said:


> ps- I guess it's just me, but I noticed everyone who gets a snowblower new, before actually even using it, they are somewhat overly concerned about maintenance. I'd concentrate on the actual operation of the machine first, storage and maintenance second. being a new machine it should run a few years without a high degree of service, as the whole reason for buying new in my mind is, not having to work on it, for a few years at least.
> 
> *I'd be most concerned with it not hitting or ingesting any obstacles, and bending an auger, impeller, shafts, etc.*
> 
> ...


 
I agree proper operation and removing obstructions from the area are first priority. Good fall cleanup normally removes anything of concern, but this time of year care should be taken when routing extenstion cords for Holiday light displays as they can do a number on any machine if ingested.

Regardless of a machines age, proper preventive maintenance is the only way to avoid needless costly repairs. Greasing everything annually,changing the oil, and proper maintenance of the engines fuel system are required from day one of ownership. Failure to do so, even on a new machine, will only lead to future problems. Can you imagine running an engine for years without changing the oil after the break-in period? Some owners don't know that they are supposed to!!! I would say the #1 issue posted on this forum is "carb related no start" caused by improper fuel storage/system maintenance, and it happens to just as many new machines as it does older machines. I agree that new machines shouldn't have to be "fixed", but to expect any machine to work properly without maintaining it for a few years is an unrealistic expectation.


----------



## pckeen (Nov 13, 2014)

That's a good point - thanks for the reminder. I'm up to about 2 hours of use so far....3 more before the first oil change.


----------



## caddydaddy (Dec 10, 2014)

pckeen said:


> That's a good point - thanks for the reminder. I'm up to about 2 hours of use so far....3 more before the first oil change.


I always change the oil very early on new engines. I changed the oil in my new Cub Cadet after about 30 minutes. You'll be surprised at how many metal shavings still come out of a new engine!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

It's kind of a trade off if you're going to switch to a synthetic. On a new machine you might want to leave the factory oil in a little longer 2-5 hrs to allow rings to seat before you swap it out for syn. If you're sticking with conventional then it wouldn't matter.


----------



## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

caddydaddy said:


> I always change the oil very early on new engines. I changed the oil in my new Cub Cadet after about 30 minutes. You'll be surprised at how many metal shavings still come out of a new engine!


 I asked the question to LCT engines and they responded that oil should be changed at around the 5 hours mark on their new engines.


----------



## caddydaddy (Dec 10, 2014)

Normex said:


> I asked the question to LCT engines and they responded that oil should be changed at around the 5 hours mark on their new engines.


I'm not sure how good it is to have all those metal shavings floating around in there for 5 hours before the first change. I've always changed it early and haven't had any negative side effects. I guess it can't hurt! YMMV.


----------



## Turbozcs2003 (Aug 20, 2014)

I have a new Ariens 24 Plat , I dumped he FF oil after 1 use, about 2 hrs.
THe oil was dark and had the pearlescent silver wear particles floating in it.

I used the 2nd fill ( Penzoil 10w-30 HM)) for another storm clean up and then dumped that, much cleaner this time.

Put in some Valvoline 5w-30 I had hanging around. Will use that a couple more times and then put some Amsoil 5w-30 diesel oil in it.

Per maintenance, my 20 yrs old craftsman, I would change the oil at end of season, grease the zircs, throw new plug in, fog it.

Last 8 yrs or so have been a PITA with the gas, I used the red stabil but still had issues with the carb. I would recommend to anyone, buy some Amsoil Power Foam, that will bail you out, works excellent on cleaning he carb. I had to replace the carb once and rebuilt it 2nd time.

I found a station with real gas, no ethanol. Drove 60 miles and bought 25 gallons, should cover me till next year.

Note local Ariens dealer recommended not buying any gas additive with alcohol, why make it worse? 

SInce I have real gas, will just use the red stabil.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Turbozcs2003 said:


> Per maintenance, my 20 yrs old craftsman, I would change the oil at end of season, grease the zircs, throw new plug in, fog it.
> 
> SInce I have real gas, will just use the red stabil.



If you are going to change plugs yearly it would make more sense to set the new plug aside and start it at the beginning of the season with the old plug to burn off the fogging oil and then put in the new plug. Why burn oil with your new plug 

The Marine Stabil works better under high moisture conditions.


----------



## pckeen (Nov 13, 2014)

OP Here - thanks for all the comments so far - very helpful.

Ariens just put out a annual maintenance email, saying a few things, most notably: don't run your blower dry, due to the new ethanol blended gasolines. Their recommendation now is to fill the tank and run stabilized fuel through the motor. I'll be doing that using premium gas, which locally is ethanol free.


----------



## pckeen (Nov 13, 2014)

And one question - changing the spark plugs. This is standard maintenance on small engines, and is inexpensive, but I don't do this on my other 'home' equipment, as I just don't put many hours on my various gas tools (weed whipper, lawn mower, ice augur, outboards etc.). I don't have a difficulty replacing spark plugs as it is inexpensive - but I probably have under 10 hours of use on the blower now - is changing the plugs really necessary? If so, how often?


----------



## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

greatwhitebuffalo said:


> change the oil to a synthetic in the engine, fresh oil in the gearbox, run the carb dry of gas, shut the petcock off, and preferably drain the tank too.
> the best rust prevention is spray the machine with a light coat of oil, or wipe it down with an oily rag
> 
> if you put synthetic in the engine you don't have to change the oil every year. more like every 5 years or more.


I have to disagree with a +5 year oil change interval. Half a quart of oil once a year won't be a hardship to anyone's budget.


----------



## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

I turn off the fuel and let the carb run dry, then remove the bowl and let it dry a day or two., then replace it . 

I Change the oil before storage to get the contaminants from moisture and combustion out, run the engine a few minutes with the new oil, and then remove the wire from the spark plug and remove the plug, and as the manual asks I pour *about a teaspoon of engine oil* and replace the plug, leave the wire disconnected. Then pull the recoil all the way slowly once to distribute the oil on the cylinder walls.

I also make sure my drive chains at the axle have grease so rust cannot form. 

If you have a metal chute and you have rust in the chute, from paint that has worn off it's a good time to hit it with sandpaper, clean it, and take a spray rattle-can of the proper color and give it a quick coat of paint to stop humidity from causing rust. Hit up any spots around or in the auger housing the same way. 

Rust never sleeps.


----------



## caddydaddy (Dec 10, 2014)

pckeen said:


> And one question - changing the spark plugs. This is standard maintenance on small engines, and is inexpensive, but I don't do this on my other 'home' equipment, as I just don't put many hours on my various gas tools (weed whipper, lawn mower, ice augur, outboards etc.). I don't have a difficulty replacing spark plugs as it is inexpensive - but I probably have under 10 hours of use on the blower now - is changing the plugs really necessary? If so, how often?


I'd measure the gap once a year, and if it starts to widen up, then change it. Otherwise, it's just a waste to throw out a perfectly good spark plug!


----------



## Bror Jace (Jan 13, 2015)

Change oil at the 2 or mark? Or change it at the 5 hour mark? I say: "Yes" (do both). These engines are rather crude when compared to modern automotive engines. They shed a LOT of metal when breaking in. Get that stuff out of there quickly. Any oil will do when breaking in the machine. Worry about selecting some special synthetic after the 2nd or 3rd oil change.

I use Yeti Blood (Chevron Delo 0W30).

Since these engines are run with no air cleaner, they regularly ingest dust and moisture. Despite synthetic oils being more robust than mineral oils (although there's a lot of grey area between the two nowadays), the oil should be drained regularly to rid the sump of the contaminants. Best part about synthetic oil for a snowblower? Its cold-flow capabilities in unheated garages and sheds.

Also, these engines are easy on spark plugs. Figure on running the same plug at least a few years, if not several or more. I changed the plug in my 2011 Ariens only because I wanted to upgrade from a Champion to a NGK. If the plug becomes fouled, clean with a wire brush/wheel NOT sandpaper. Sandpaper and similar media can leave bits of silica (insulator) embedded in the electrode.

Stick with a quality name-brand plug and leave the gimmick (i.e. E3) plugs on the shelves.

I leave some stabilized fuel in the carb to guard against seals drying out. This year, I bought B&S fuel stabilizer (but have yet to use it). I would NOT fill the tank. That's THAT MUCH more fuel that will be aging for no good reason. Most tanks are plastic now anyways.

Also, spray tire dressing on the sidewalls of the tires to keep the rubber from drying out during storage. This is doubly important if the machine's storage spot sees any sunlight.


----------



## pckeen (Nov 13, 2014)

Just thought I would touch base again. Four years later, no real problems with the blower. Routine maintenance yearly as in this thread.


----------



## thool (Jul 25, 2016)

Funny thing about varnish...

I run my snowblower dry and fog it. The bowl comes off, I spray carb cleaner, and catch the runnings with a paper towel. I always get a tinge of yellow, so I feel good about getting that out. However, before it goes back into service in the late fall, I repeat the spray process and STILL get some yellow!

Being in NY, we get a lot of snow and road salt does impact the metals. The bucket and augers all get a good coating of Fluid Film prior to storage and again just before it goes back into service. In the transmission, the friction wheel hex slider gets lithium grease, and the chains/sprockets all get sprayed with a quality chain oil.

I cannot overstate my satisfaction with the HM80 Sno-King engine. A carb rebuild, points replace, fuel line, and muffler are the only parts that needed replacement in the 20 years I've owned it. It's a 1977 model and just keeps going. Fresh E0 fuel, proper oil, and a little affection are all that's needed to keep it running strong.


----------

