# Found an Ariens Trac Team Rotary attachment - what should I do to make sure it works?



## WalkThisWhey (Feb 15, 2017)

A few months ago I found this and picked it up this Ariens Rotary Mower (album)











The label says it's a "910001" but I can't find any history of this number being made (the reference page only shows "35-10M" and "910011" being the closest ones)

Belt was gone and I'm not sure of the size of it. The height adjustment is also frozen on it too and it won't move up or down.

If it had a belt, part of me would want to just bolt it to my 10000 series to see if it worked, but the other part of me wants to go through it and grease/tune/unstick anything before doing that. Blade seems OK but could use a sharpening.

Ultimately I'd like this to be running so I could ditch my hand mower and have one less engine to maintain (I have a tractor for most of my lawn but this would be good in hard to reach spots.....and "just because!")

Any tips or pointers on where to start on this would be appreciated


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## Seaweed (Jan 18, 2016)

Hi- I'm by no means an expert but I'll answer your questions based on what I've experienced and found online. I have a 1970 machine still a 10,000 series but they changed their numbering in 1970 to the 910---. series Same thing on the rotary mower the 910011 is a later mower. I'm using a a 35-10M on mine (that I got from the Cranman) and it fits fine. Here is Scot's page ( a great website) and if you scroll down to the bottom you'll see the numbers. There is also a pdf for an operators manual for the rotary and another for a parts list. 



https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page5.html


I had no fitment problems at all and expect you will not either.
The belt called for is Ariens p/n 34x102 and you should have no problem finding one. I ordered a kevlar one thru Amazon.
I did add Ariens L3 lube to the grease case. Calls for L2 but L3 is the replacement sub.
Use PB Blaster on everything and it should free up. Disconnecting the blower and connecting the mower is simple, too.
Let us know how you make out.


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## WalkThisWhey (Feb 15, 2017)

Seaweed said:


> Hi- I'm by no means an expert but I'll answer your questions based on what I've experienced and found online. I have a 1970 machine still a 10,000 series but they changed their numbering in 1970 to the 910---. series Same thing on the rotary mower the 910011 is a later mower. I'm using a a 35-10M on mine (that I got from the Cranman) and it fits fine. Here is Scot's page ( a great website) and if you scroll down to the bottom you'll see the numbers. There is also a pdf for an operators manual for the rotary and another for a parts list.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the belt info, and I had no idea on L2/L3 so thanks for bringing that up. If I can sharpen the blade and just get this working I'd be a happy guy - maybe I'd plan a full restoration with paint afterwards.


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## Seaweed (Jan 18, 2016)

Blades are available if you run into a problem. Since it's almost mowing season, probably best to get operational and paint in the Fall.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Glad to see you got that old girl running Seaweed!


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## Seaweed (Jan 18, 2016)

I just did Cranman. I need to post up a picture soon for y'all.


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## WalkThisWhey (Feb 15, 2017)

For a long time I basically stuck this in the back of my garage and said "I'll get to it later". Well I finally got my ass in gear and hooked up the rotary mower to my 10000 series snowblower tractor.

It's going to need some help - the center shaft won't turn by the belt, and turning by hand is very tough so I'd say it's nearly seized.

Prior to hooking it up, I bought an air filter kit but it wasn't a direct bolt on for my repowered HMSK100 engine (my unit had 8 hp from the factory). I had to make a hokey cover to seal the air filter so I could run this during spring/summer/fall.

I also took a video of it running - you can see where the center shaft won't engage.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Sure looks like the deck mandrel bearing seized, or at least failing ... unless you have the wrong belt.


Have you tried some Trizol (weasel ****, PB, etc.) to loosen up the shaft bearing?, as you have nothing to loose at this point. Curious, is that mandrel bolted to the frame, or pressed in? Most mandrels can be had for about 20.00 to 30.00 new. Not sure about that one.


Almost looks like you need something like this:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV6RVGY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07CV6RVGY&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTkVRNlI3Q0FEVVo2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTk5OTI5Mk8xRUc5VUcwVDRTVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTg4OTIwMkVLTUlLRFI1STZUSyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


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## WalkThisWhey (Feb 15, 2017)

oneacer said:


> Sure looks like the deck mandrel bearing seized, or at least failing ... unless you have the wrong belt.
> 
> 
> Have you tried some Trizol (weasel ****, PB, etc.) to loosen up the shaft bearing?, as you have nothing to loose at this point. Curious, is that mandrel bolted to the frame, or pressed in? Most mandrels can be had for about 20.00 to 30.00 new. Not sure about that one.
> ...


I'll be trying the PB Blaster route, but I have a feeling this is going to be a take apart/clean/rebuild thing.

The deck mandrel is bolted to the frame so I can remove it, although getting my hands on a working one will likely be pretty tough. This one on eBay is going for $90: https://www.ebay.com/i/183342305267...S0jhHkKEIOwaE_xQAT8l2AcNK1jIqeiRoCNwcQAvD_BwE


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