# HS1132 Belt Replacement And Adjustment



## ColdPlay (Jan 22, 2015)

Howdy Everyone,
Been awhile since I visited. Back at again in the cold on the HS1132. Bought 2 new belts for Auger and Drive, as the old ones are worn out. Wondered if anyone has been down this road and may offer a few suggestions, images or step bt step on removal and replacement and adjustment of the new belts. I was gonna order the Shop Manual...but fishing took priority, now I am "Caught With My Snow Suit Down" again.
Any help on the process would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Coldplay In Montana


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

ColdPlay said:


> Howdy Everyone,
> Been awhile since I visited. Back at again in the cold on the HS1132. Bought 2 new belts for Auger and Drive, as the old ones are worn out. Wondered if anyone has been down this road and may offer a few suggestions, images or step bt step on removal and replacement and adjustment of the new belts. I was gonna order the Shop Manual...but fishing took priority, now I am "Caught With My Snow Suit Down" again.
> Any help on the process would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Coldplay In Montana


there is a really good video on you tube on replacing the belt on a honda hs55 and it's pretty much the same for the 1132.

the drive belt can be replaced without taking the bucket off but since you have to replace the auger belt as well you have to take bucket off. you might as well put in a new auger bearing since you have the bucket off.

i also take the augers out and replace shear pins and grease the shafts. it only takes 10-15 minutes and it makes it easier putting the bucket back on without all that extra weight.

really important to make sure you clamp your auger handle down when you take bucket off and put back on because you could damage the auger brake arm. so watch that video. 

also with the bucket off you can check everything else a lot easier.


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## ColdPlay (Jan 22, 2015)

Hey Fellas,
Just got in from the well below freezing temps and finished replacing the drive and auger belts. Noticed a post was here by Orangpetuh when I came in after I was finished, thanks there.
Here Is The Procedure I Followed With 100% Sucess Step By Step:
1. Remove the 12 mm Nut from under the Chute Gear Crank where it meets the chute gears, pull the geared shaft up and away.
2. Remove the Light Assembly, Disconnect the Wiring Clip, 2 bolts and Collar Retainers.
3. Loosen tension on the Deflector Cable Lever and disconnect the cable at the Deflector Chute.
4. Feed the Deflector Chute Cable out of the plastic retainer on top of the plastic Belt Guard out of the way.
5. Remove the 3 bolts, plates, washers and Plastic Ring that fasten the Deflector Chute, remove the Deflector Chute.
6. Remove the 2 Bolts that hold the Plastic Belt Guard, remove the guard.
7. Loosen the locknuts on the Auger Drive Cable and Track Drive Cable at the Metal Bracket. Remove the Metal Bracket. Remove the cable rings from the 2 springs.
8. Remove the one Belt Guide from the Inner Drive Belt Housing. Remove the 2 Belt Guides from the Auger Drive Belt Housing. Both Auger Drive Belt Guides are near the large pulleys.
9 .Remove the 1 Large Belt Guide for both belts near small pulleys. 
10. But a 6x6" block of wood under the Machine at the front to elevate for easy Bucket Removal.
11. Begin removing all 13 12mm Bolts that hold the bucket on. Loosen the 4 on each corner at the top and beneath first, then loosen the remaining bolts on the sides.
12. Have helper steady and hold the Bucket as the bolts are removed, The bucket with Large Auger Pulley will separate.
13. Remove the belts.
14. Replace new belts, re-fasten all 4 belt guides.
15. Make sure both belts are under the Idler Pin, and Carefully have your helper re-position the Bucket, holding it securely while you start all 13 12mm Bolts. Slowly and evenly tighten all bolts in a clockwise sequence to full tork.
16. Re-assemble the unit in reverse, and finally adjust both cables, tension to 95% freeplay removed at the metal bracket. Check everything for proper fit, assembly and tightness of all fasteners.
17. Clear the area, start the engine and slowly test, Drive Lever, Chute Crank operation, Deflector Lever Operation and finally the Auger Lever for proper and smooth operation.
This was an easy repair...except for the biting cold, freezing all tools into a solid "Orb". I suggest you do this after the 1st 3-4 years, depending on usage and conditions. And do it in summertime!
I hope this helps you HS1132 Ta/Tas owners.
Coldplay :behindsofa:


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## ColdPlay (Jan 22, 2015)

I posted a very detailed step by step walk through on changing both belts on the Honda HS1132 TA/TAS late last night with frozen fingers and 100% success. It somehow "Mysteriously Disappeared" overnight.
Decided not to do it over...I hate to type long posts...especially TWICE. I suppose if any of you need help on this repair, let me know and will share the solution.
Coldplay In Montana


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

ColdPlay, how did you post the video that disappeared?


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I am planning to buy a used HS928 KITA SAVJ machine, and want to stuff it into the back of my SUV. I tried to the other day, and was unsuccessful.

Now, Plan B - I want to separate the bucket from the chassis, and then it should fit...should ! I don't have a service manual, but found ColdPlay's process for separating the bucket. Besides the HS55 video, ColdPlay - have you found your video, or does anyone else have any updates or additions to the description in this thread ? Might anyone be able to send some scans of the service manual that they could email me, or would that subject us to Prison ? Not sure that a Honda would be enough to protect me in Prison.

Thanks - and looking forward to joining the Honda Track Club.

Rit

[email protected]


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