# New Ariens owner with a question...



## swcheese (Jan 4, 2017)

I just got an Ariens Dekuxe 30 EFI and am wondering if other Ariens owners have experienced the chute rattling. It seems to me that the flange of the chute is pretty loose over the impeller hole, or, maybe it just that the mounting pole keeps the chute dangling just above the hole? Works just fine but makes a racket. Anyone else run into this? Thanks for your time!


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## JD in NJ (Dec 21, 2016)

I have not noticed that on my Deluxe 30. Only have about 3 hours on it so far though.


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## swcheese (Jan 4, 2017)

JD in NJ said:


> I have not noticed that on my Deluxe 30. Only have about 3 hours on it so far though.


 Ok, thanks!


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## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

I did have that on my deluxe 28 as well. Never a problem, just an annoying rattle.


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## sgtrwt (Dec 21, 2016)

I did notice the same thing on the Deluxe 24 I just purchased. Haven't had any snow to try it yet to see if there is a problem in use.


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## Elt31987 (Sep 6, 2015)

I think mine does that but you cant hear it with the engine running.


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## swcheese (Jan 4, 2017)

Of course, now that I bought it, we won't get any snow! Thanks for the responses!


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Cheese, one of my units was delivered with loose bolts that hold the chute in place and it was very "floppy". Check your attachment hardware and make certain things are tight. Welcome aboard !!


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## swcheese (Jan 4, 2017)

Thanks UberT! I love this site! Since I am the one who assembled it I figured I better check what you said incase I didn't tighten the mounting bolts but no, they are tight, it seems like it is just extra play down where the chute sits over the impellor. When running you can instantly stop the rattle by touching the chute base. Not a big deal just a bit annoying, that's all.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

I have 2 new Ariens machines a 30 Platinum and a 36 pro. I don't notice a loose rattling chute on mine, but it's a good thing that it's made like it is, the chute won't freeze up. Some machines do in fact freeze up in this area.
Take a little WD40 and spray up into the chute. Then it will rotate with ease. There is a spring under the gear. If you snug it up a little, it will add tension if the chute gears, reducing the chute from drifting on it's own.


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## Michael Smith (Sep 21, 2017)

I'm haveing the same problem! Just bought mine 2 days ago and especially when I lift the front off the ground the chute vibrates metal on metal extremely loud. Honestly a deal breaker might take it back.


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## Michael Smith (Sep 21, 2017)

I figured it out. After comparing mine to one that doesn't rattle. If you look at where the 2 bolts holding the chute on thread into the bracket of the female side is paint orange the chute is almost a 1/4" height off the gasket leaving much more play to bang around as opposed to the bare metal/ female threaded ones. I returned mine as it's obviously a manufacturer defect.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF Mike

Any chance you took a photo of the problem area ??


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## Michael Smith (Sep 21, 2017)

This is th gap between the chute and gasket on the one that doesn't rattle. And this is the hardware which it is attatches to the bracket with. The one I bought the threaded part appeares to be welded to the bracket and painted orange the space between the chute and gasket is about a 1/2" compared to the 1/4" and rattles like ****. I know they are going to rattle a little bit but not this bad.if you are handy I would drill the gaskets rivets out and cut a piece of rubber a little larger than the gasket and sandwich it on under the original gasket and rivet back on.


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## jimerb (Nov 16, 2019)

I'm having the same exact issue here. It doesn't look like there is any padding on the main unit. 



Has anyone found a simple fix for this?


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

If I understand you correctly, the black stanchion is too high which creates a larger than normal gap between the impeller housing discharge and the chute. The stanchion is excited by the engine vibration and this is transmitted to the chute. You are also saying that the ones that do not vibrate have a smaller gap between the impeller housing and the chute. 



Interesting. I'm not sure why the smaller chute gap reduces the noise, so I'll look at mine today and comment.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

OK, so I looked at mine and the gap is definitely lower. I touched the chute while the engine was running and noticed some vibration, but not much. To me, there are two tolerances at work here. One is the position of the female fasteners on the discharge housing and the other is the welded and bent tab on the chute itself that connects to the rotating assembly. IMHO, the latter is the one with the most potential for variation. Therefore, all that may be required is to bend it slightly to lower the chute closer to the top of the discharge housing. I've uploaded an exploded view showing the tab (circled).


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## jimerb (Nov 16, 2019)

This is very helpful. I will look at this carefully. Thanks for taking the time to study it.


Also for others, I noticed that the rattle reduces when the engine is throttled higher. It's when it's near idle that it is the loudest.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

jimerb said:


> This is very helpful. I will look at this carefully. Thanks for taking the time to study it.
> 
> 
> Also for others, I noticed that the rattle reduces when the engine is throttled higher. It's when it's near idle that it is the loudest.



Resonant frequency. You may also find that with time, it will go away as things wear in.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

If you bend the tab on the chute that attaches to the bracket on the chute control you will change the center of rotation of the chute and it may bind. It would be better to look at other adjustments provided by Ariens.

The height of the chute above the impeller discharge opening is fixed by the way the chute attaches to the post and control assembly. There is no adjustment provided. 

The adjustment is provided in the attachment of the bucket (with its impeller output opening) to the chassis. The mounting nuts are machined into the flanges on the rear of the impeller housing each side of impeller pulley. The chassis has slotted openings to provide for adjustment of the bucket to be level. The bucket adjustment procedure from Ariens: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/12298-ariens-auto-turn-adjustment.html will set the bucket and chassis at the correct position. This may change the gap between the chute and impeller housing as the impeller housing will be lifted while the chassis with the chute will be lowered (assuming the adjustment was not correct from the factory).

I don't know if this adjustment will fix the problem but it will ensure the machine is set up correctly.

Good luck.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

> The adjustment is provided in the attachment of the bucket (with its impeller output opening) to the chassis. The mounting nuts are machined into the flanges on the rear of the impeller housing each side of impeller pulley. The chassis has slotted openings to provide for adjustment of the bucket to be level. The bucket adjustment procedure from Ariens: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...djustment.html will set the bucket and chassis at the correct position. This may change the gap between the chute and impeller housing as the impeller housing will be lifted while the chassis with the chute will be lowered (assuming the adjustment was not correct from the factory).



I believe the attachment point for the stanchion is part of the auger housing (attachment) assembly. Therefore, doing the procedure you mentioned above won't change anything.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Clutch Cargo said:


> I believe the attachment point for the stanchion is part of the auger housing (attachment) assembly. Therefore, doing the procedure you mentioned above won't change anything.


Yes, you are right. I apologise.


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