# 1032D transmission will not engage



## tekapo

Have an older 80s 1032 beast! I've had it about 15 years and it does not get a lot of use. Once or twice a year once we have 6". Just had a 33" inch storm and it was incredible. I installed an impeller kit and can shoot across the street. (when no one is looking). 

All of a sudden there was no motion in any gear or reverse. Motor never skipped a beat, no noise, so I just pushed it through. Once I was done, my 15 minute nap turned into four hours.

I assumed it was the friction disc, ordered a new one and installed today. Still does not move. Up on stands with the cover off when I turn the wheels by hand, the chain and sprocket do not move. If I turn the disc by hand, the wheels and sprocket do move. The transaxle seems a little loose.

Looking at a few threads on here, there is supposed to be some washers, locknut and two wing nuts on the left wheel. I can see a mark where the large washer and nut were at some time. Never recall seeing the large lock out wing nuts. Would this keep me from getting into gear? Looking at the 'Goofy 826 Axel Repair' thread I can see I am missing parts 13a, 13b, 14, 15 & 16. I am not sure what these pieces are called and their actual part numbers. On the '1032 Good Find' thread he has a picture of the pieces removed and mine looks just like that on the right, without the parts. So would this keep me from getting in gear? Any suggestions on where to obtain the parts?

I chose the old JD because I think there were better bade. When I go look at new machines, they are flimsy. The auger blades can be bent by hand so I can only imagine what a chunk of ice or small rock will do. 

Thanks for any suggestions or pointers.


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## Kiss4aFrog

The old stuff is built like a tank but even tanks need maintenance and break infrequently.

Would love a bit of video but even a photo or two might be helpful. Any chance you're seeing one of the gears not moving when the axle is or vise a versa, like a broken pin or bolt that should hold them together ??

Is your serial number before or after 190000 ??


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## bad69cat

Yeah - post up all your tag information. They built that model over many years and had plenty of changes along the way......


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## tekapo

M01032X 577887 (faint as it is a vinyl sticker)








Moline, IL
This is on the plate on the rear of the snow blower portion.

HM100 159120M
SER 72440
This is on the engine

Lifted with the wheels free, turning either wheel they both turn. Nothing else. If I turn the friction disc the wheels, transaxle, chain and cogs turn. If I grab the transaxle and turn it, everything again turns. If I turn the disc that the friction disc engages, only the engine turns. 

It makes sense that a pin may have sheared, just not sure where to look or what would have made it shear as it was only deep powder. With the image I've labeled the only thing that resembles a pin. 

Thanks for any advice. It's too heavy for me to push up a ramp into a pickup. Twenty years ago maybe. Forty years ago definitely!


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## Kiss4aFrog

If the gear in the lower left of your picture doesn't move when the wheels spin I'm guessing it's the gear and how it's pinned to the shaft. The diagram doesn't show how it's attached.










Ok it looks like the gear is bolted to the case with four bolts so that's not it. I'm thinking it's something in the differential.


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## jtclays

where you have "pin?" in the pic, needs to go back in. It connects the right half axle to the drive gears on the left.


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## tekapo

Thanks! Seems like it has to be something simple. I hope...


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## tekapo

Missing the large nut and wing nut on the outside of the left wheel, could that be a problem? I'm wondering if it keeping the gears from meshing from no tension pushing them in. Never worked on one before so just guessing.


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## tekapo

If I freewheel the wheels in opposite directions, I can feel/hear something trying to catch in the differential. Exerting pressure on the tires pushing in, it catches and holds and the gears, chains, transaxle and tires all move together as they should. Keep turning a wheel or trying to turn it fast, and it un-meshes. It seems like there must be a key somewhere or something coming out. The pin in my image is a hex bolt that turns and is not sheered as both sides turn when one side is turned with a wrench.


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## jtclays

Yes, if you are missing that left side assembly,all else working properly, you'll not get traction. If you can tell from my pics, that large "nut' is not threaded, it's keyed (last pic). As you tighten the outside "wingnut" it applies friction to that side and locks the axles together giving you 2 wheel drive vs. open differential. What's keeping the left wheel on? (actually the hub shaft, not wheel). If it's cobbled by previous owner (I've actually seen the hub welded to the shaft defeating the option of the wingnut and differential), you may have a condition like the rusted out differential I have pictured and your left hub is seized by rust. If that's the case, putting the pin back in place from your own picture should still give you traction, however you won't have the option of the open differential. Seems like a lot of grease around the differential, so maybe it is dry inside. When I took my working one apart, there was no gasket for the halves. Appeared to be very lightly placed Permatex type gasket material. If you get it free and working with the pin installed, you could get a nut and washer to run the left side hub. Match treads to a hardware store nut and use a socket to tighten and loosen. I know on mine the big wingnut was nothing special and had an obvious weld of the "wings" to a simple nut. The keyed "nut" (in my last pic, left side) is likely the hard part to find to make a working system, assuming no rust binding.


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## bad69cat

think this one covers yours..... http://download.snowblowerguide.com...ame=526-726-732-826-832-1032-TM1234-01740.pdf


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## tekapo

All fixed.

The axel nut on the left hand side that also has the differential lock out, also is needed to pull the two axel halves together. Not sure if mine were lost or not on there which I find hard to believe. Went to Lowes, got a grade 8 1/2" by 20 fine thread locking nut, two large stainless fender washers, a locknut then a grade 8 washer before the lock nut. Bought a second locking nut just in case, but did not put it on. Fired up and runs better than before. No wobble and not hesitation. May have been missing longer than I know.

So anyone else that has a similar drive problem, check the tightness of the axel nut and you may get lucky. 

Charlie


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