# V Belts for augers and drives



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I ordered 2 belts for my blower.
My auger belt is so stretched I don't know how it still turns the auger but it does. I found pieces of it here an there when I took the cover off, but it still works. 
What is the most I could hurt with the old belt be so worn? Just that it wouldn't turn the auger anymore? Or could I wear out the pulleys do you think? I was just thinking about leaving it on till it pops, then put the new one on. Get my moneys worth out of the old belt. 

The new auger belt is a regular V belt not cogged, just like the old one.

I figured as long as I was ordering I might as well get a new drive belt too, nothing is wrong with the drive belt that is on there, but a spare is nice to have.
The V belt for my drive is a regular V belt but the new one they sent me is a cogged belt?
All the numbers match up and it is the same size but it is cogged instead of a smooth belt.
What do you all think? You think a cogged belt is just as good as a smooth V belt?


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

If you have burnt spots or chunks missing you'll have vibration issues that can over time damage bearings.

Sometimes a different manufacturer will make a cogged belt. There's nothing inherently wrong with them in terms of transmitting power, but they do tend to crack between the teeth before a regular V-belt would start cracking.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

No chunks or pieces that I can see missing. It is not vibrating. But it is stretched some, the remains I found were probably from the inside part of the belt. But I will look at it better this weekend.
Still works the auger fine, maybe I can get some more use from it before it starts slipping. 

The Sears site lists the same replacement belt as other replacement sites, they all say it is a manufacture replacement belt/number.

I feel the same way as you on the cogged belts.
I wished I had seen that before hand I might have been able to find a regular belt.


Has anyone used or seen a cogged belt for turning the auger?


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## frascati (Jan 31, 2014)

I was told at the auto parts store where I got belts that the the cogged belts (they carry) are not as resilient as the green heavy duty belts (with fabric casing). The green belts were almost twice the price. I just figured what the heck and got the cogged belts. 

I don't know, but I assume that the cogged belts wrap more easily around small pulleys, like the one on the engine output shaft and the pair of them are liable to be just that much less parasitic drag on a small horsepower motor. Isn't that the purpose of the cogs? Just my imagination, but I went for the cogged ones since the cogged belts that were on my blower lasted just fine for 20 years! 

Comparatively the green heavy duty belts were much much less flexible, but they likely soften up with use. And maybe they last forever. Just my 2cents. Probably worth about that


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

MTD uses cogged belts a lot I think.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

frascati said:


> I was told at the auto parts store where I got belts that the the cogged belts (they carry) are not as resilient as the green heavy duty belts (with fabric casing). The green belts were almost twice the price. I just figured what the heck and got the cogged belts.
> 
> I don't know, but I assume that the cogged belts wrap more easily around small pulleys, like the one on the engine output shaft and the pair of them are liable to be just that much less parasitic drag on a small horsepower motor. Isn't that the purpose of the cogs? Just my imagination, but I went for the cogged ones since the cogged belts that were on my blower lasted just fine for 20 years!
> 
> Comparatively the green heavy duty belts were much much less flexible, but they likely soften up with use. And maybe they last forever. Just my 2cents. Probably worth about that


Well I will give you a nickel instead. 
Thanks that makes me feel a little better about using the cogged belt.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Shryp said:


> MTD uses cogged belts a lot I think.


MTD......had to look that up. 
I see there is a forum for them.

Tell me something you might know, I have seen reference being made to MTF on some posts. I think it was an MTF site?

What would MTF stands for?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Big Ed said:


> What would MTF stands for?


 My Tractor Forum.
MyTractorForum.com


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Grunt said:


> My Tractor Forum.
> MyTractorForum.com


OK, it has competition, My train forum I am on. MTF  Model Train Forum - the complete model train resource - Discussion about Model Trains, HO Scale, N Scale, Z Scale, G Scale and O Scale.

Thankyou.


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## MnJim (Jan 26, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> No chunks or pieces that I can see missing. It is not vibrating. But it is stretched some, the remains I found were probably from the inside part of the belt. But I will look at it better this weekend.
> Still works the auger fine, maybe I can get some more use from it before it starts slipping.


 Or it might just decide to let loose after the biggest snow of the season.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The worst time to change a belt is when you have new snow and yours broke or it's slipping and not getting the job done. 

I'd much rather replace it when it looks marginal and it's warm out and I can take my time then when the snow's piling up and it's freezing out.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

MnJim said:


> Or it might just decide to let loose after the biggest snow of the season.


Well I will find out, they are calling for 12" sun mon this weekend.
But if it breaks no problem, see next post.

The site won't let me use the multi quote option?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> The worst time to change a belt is when you have new snow and yours broke or it's slipping and not getting the job done.
> 
> I'd much rather replace it when it looks marginal and it's warm out and I can take my time then when the snow's piling up and it's freezing out.


Even though the one I have on is worn it still works fine.

If it pops I will just bring it into my 2 car oversized garage with loft and fire up my propane heater and put some tunes on. It gets nice and toasty in 15 mins. 

I am going to check it out tomorrow.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> The worst time to change a belt is when you have new snow and yours broke or it's slipping and not getting the job done.
> 
> I'd much rather replace it when it looks marginal and it's warm out and I can take my time then when the snow's piling up and it's freezing out.


That's an excuse for me to use another machine....


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Spectrum said:


> That's an excuse for me to use another machine....


Now that is an ideal, I got to be like some of the other members and get a few dozen machines.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Big Ed said:


> The site won't let me use the multi quote option?


I think I have used that once. I have seen other people use it.


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## doose (Mar 2, 2014)

Hi all, my first post/reply and just wanted to throw in my two cents about belts, where I work we have dozens of belt drives, some with cogged belts and some with standard v - they run 24hrs a day 6+ days a week and last for years, only difference is the cogged are more flexible on smaller diameter shivs .


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Spectrum said:


> That's an excuse for me to use another machine....





doose said:


> Hi all, my first post/reply and just wanted to throw in my two cents about belts, where I work we have dozens of belt drives, some with cogged belts and some with standard v - they run 24hrs a day 6+ days a week and last for years, only difference is the cogged are more flexible on smaller diameter shivs .


Hi welcome to the site.

As mentioned are the cogged belts are more prone to cracking you think?

I guess it is the pick of the straw, and the manufacturer of the belts?
My belt is cogged on my pickup truck has been working since 1999, 84,000 miles now.
I was going to replace it at the recommended mileage which was 65,000 but it still looked new.

I just thought it was strange that I got a cogged belt when the originals were just a smooth V belt.


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## frascati (Jan 31, 2014)

You got me curious so I googled it further. Cogged belts appear to be getting more common. Their reputation for failure compared to solid profile belts was a past problem but no longer relevant when comparing quality named belts. 

Among the most frequently mentioned advantages are longer life, _depending upon application_, particularly when a belt is being driven by a small pulley and then made to conform to a larger radius of that pulley by another pulley (such as an idler wheel used as a clutching mechanism)... a common design in snowblowers. 

Cogged also run quieter with less vibration and resonance. Not a big plus for a noisy vibrating snowblower in any case. Vibration is also a factor in efficiency since it contributes to slip. 

... cooler running due both to less internal friction of deformation around pulleys and far greater surface area on the driven side to dissipate heat. Adds to reliability. 

... higher efficiency. Cogged belts are typically 2 to 4 percent more efficient than "classic" belts. Again, that's not a big deal with a snowblower. That's not a 2 percent net of HP or torque. That's just a 2 percent _difference _in the relative inefficiency of the belts. A negligible loss for a single machine. It's a concern for the factory owner who's running 1000+ belts on his machinery and adding up the energy losses/savings. 




> Both cogged and wrapped belts exhibit efficiencies above 90 per cent, although cogged belt generally display higher efficiency, lower slip, and cooler temperatures. Cogged efficiencies are above 94 percent throughout the application power range.
> Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5037282


Bottom line seems to be that newly designed name-brand cogged belts are as long lived as "classic" equivalents and actually better suited to being driven tightly around a small motor pulley when tensioned with an idler pulley "clutch".


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

I can not give too much input on this thread, but...........

The last belt that I put on my 1971 Ariens before I repowered her, was a cogged belt. It didn't last two seasons. It cracked and just fell apart. I do not remember how much of a work out it got, but I was very dis satisfied with it. My first thought was, how can a belt with cut outs in in and having less material to it, last or be as strong? Maybe a silly way to think about it, but after I saw what happened to this belt, that is where my thinking took me. 

I will not us a cogged belt again.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

frascati said:


> You got me curious so I googled it further. Cogged belts appear to be getting more common. Their reputation for failure compared to solid profile belts was a past problem but no longer relevant when comparing quality named belts.


I was going to say thanks for putting my mind at ease, until I read the next post. 

Can't multi quote, and the site made me log in 3 times to reply???
Yes I always check remember me.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Kielbasa said:


> I can not give too much input on this thread, but...........
> 
> The last belt that I put on my 1971 Ariens before I repowered her, was a cogged belt. It didn't last two seasons. It cracked and just fell apart. I do not remember how much of a work out it got, but I was very dis satisfied with it. My first thought was, how can a belt with cut outs in in and having less material to it, last or be as strong? Maybe a silly way to think about it, but after I saw what happened to this belt, that is where my thinking took me.
> 
> I will not us a cogged belt again.


When you put the cogged belt on what year was it?
Maybe they improved the cogged belt since then?

Anyway I guess I will find out when I replace it, but I am not going to replace it till the other one won't turn the auger anymore.
My drive belt is still in great shape, the auger belt on mine is the worn one and the replacement belt I have is not cogged. That is the one I should be replacing first. When it won't turn the auger anymore or breaks.
I just got the new drive belt so I have a spare, and I got the spare friction wheel to have in case the one I have goes too.
Also you save on the shipping, and when them things go it is nice not to have to wait till it gets shipped to you. As it will go during the snow storm you need them right away.
I like to be prepared. 
Pull it into the garage, turn up the heat, fix it and go back to blowing the snow around.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

It was either 2009 or 2010.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Kielbasa said:


> It was either 2009 or 2010.


That is fairly new in my book.

My snow blower is from around 2004 or 5 maybe 03. Maybe 02.
( I got to dig up my receipt)
I asked if there was another way to find out the year but got no answer.
I guess there isn't.

Mine is still using the original belts, and I guess you can say I don't baby the blower, I dam the torpedoes and go full speed ahead when I remove the snow.

My drive belt is still like new, my auger belt is worn but still works OK.
I guess I should have kept an eye on the adjustment but didn't.


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