# Ariens ST824LE for Refurbishment . . .



## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I got this Ariens ST824LE from my brother, who recently bought a new Ariens Deluxe 30.

This Ariens has the old school Tecumseh (Cast Iron Bore) engine. He told me that the engine was not running well and he was advised by a mechanic to get a new machine (thus the Ariens 30). I told him that I would take a look at the old Ariens and see if it could be fixed up and sold.

























Looks to be in really good shape for a 15 year old machine. The engine does run like poo, but i'll see if I can get it running right. 

First steps are to do a little bit of decarb on the combustion chamber and run some fuel system cleaner, then do a compression and cylinder leak test to see where we are at . . .


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

tp, I'd take that one even it it had an inspection window behind the starter:grin: I love those models.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Other than the engine power issue it sure doesn't look like it needs much. 

.


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

mechanics are not the best person to take advice from regarding small engine machines, more than likely just needs a carb clean


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks, guys. I was surprised that it is in such good shape. The engine does run badly. So far, I have disassembled and cleaned the carb, which was very clean already, 

I ran a compression test (had to use the pull start as the electric start is not engaging) I did not get much compression . . . maybe 25 lbs. I did a cylinder leak test and got only 4% leak, which is good for a 15 year old engine. I think I'll revisit the compression test to see if I get the same results.

Right now, I'm doing an oil change, just because it does not look like it had one recently.

The engine starts fine . . . 1-2 pulls. But it 'studders' quite a bit throughout the throttle range, like its trying to run smoothly, but just can't quite seem to do so.

So, maybe timing ???

Maybe the compression release cam is not disengaging??? I assume that works off of the pull cord ???

The exhaust is clear . . . not sooty.

When I pull the spark plug after running, it is wet, which may indicate a rich mixture.

The carb has no adjustments.

Thoughts?

It would be a bummer if I could not get the engine sorted out and had to buy a replacement engine. (there goes the profit margin)


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## Snapbean (Feb 11, 2018)

See if you have carbon deposits on the valves/seats. They could be causing the low compression due do the valves not seating well. I had a rough running machine that I cleared up with some intense Sea Foam applications.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Snapbean said:


> See if you have carbon deposits on the valves/seats. They could be causing the low compression due do the valves not seating well. I had a rough running machine that I cleared up with some intense Sea Foam applications.


Yes, I did check the valve seats, and instead of SeaFoam, I used a mix of acetone and ATF in the combustion chamber to clear out some carbon. The area around the valves did look better afterwards. Also, I would not have gotten good leak test results if the valves were not sealing tight.

FWIW - I made a short video on the engine running at various stages throughout the throttle range. There is a bit is 'clacking/ringing' noise that you can hear at the lower RPM's. I used my mechanics stethoscope to isolate that extra noise to the muffler. Sort of makes me think that there is a baffle that has come loose in the muffler. . . . could be messing up the engine performance. Max RPM is 3475-3500 as per my digital optical tach.

Here is the link to the video. . .


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Does


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Here is the sticker from the engine, in case that is useful information.









Tec HMSK80 155668V


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Snapbean said:


> See if you have carbon deposits on the valves/seats. They could be causing the low compression due do the valves not seating well. I had a rough running machine that I cleared up with some intense Sea Foam applications.


Another way to clean the valves and seats is with some carb cleaner, a variable speed drill and a 'brass wire' rotary brush. Insure it's really brass wire and not brass covered steel wire. First I do the piston top and inside of the head using carb cleaner and the wire brush. With both valves closed, I hit the tops of the valves using the carb cleaner & brush. Next roll the engine so one valve is open and do the same thing hitting the underside of the valve. Roll the engine so the other valve is open and do it again. Once it's all done hit everything with carb cleaner and wipe up all the leftovers. Final step I do is spray it down with some WD40 and wipe it around to insure you have a thin coat on the cylinder walls and piston. You should have a fully decarb'd engine at this point, just reassemble it if everything else is done.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

lkitupuslf


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Yes, I recall seeing a black cap (item 20A) so I'll pop it off and clean out the idle jet. The emulsion tube (36) is brass, the o-rings may need some attention.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

All


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

jtclays said:


> All the Tec non adjustable (OEM ones) I've worked on had plastic emulsion tubes. Adjustable OEM always had brass and not removeable emulsion tubes.


It might be an aftermarket carb, since it does not have the bowl drain (items 32, 33) and it looked so clean. I'm just not sure of the machine's maintenance history.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

UPDATE:

I took out the idle adjusting needle (or whatever it is) and cleaned out the passages. They were not clogged at all. I also flushed the idle air passages with acetone. and soaked the 'needle' in acetone. 

I also took off the muffler to check for the loose baffle. It seems to be the round perforated baffle at the input to the muffler. I thought that the baffle may have been loose because the muffler bolts were not very tight. So, I put the muffler back on and torqued the bolts to 25 ft-lbs.

No difference in the engine performance or sound. So . . . 

I think I will order a new adjustable carb and a new muffler and see where that leaves things.

The fixed setting carb is Part # 640052/640349 The adjustable carb seems to be Part # 632334/632334A


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## AriensProMike (Dec 2, 2014)

I had a similar issue with a 926 around that same year. The adjustable carb ironed it out and ran a top after. I had a couple of those machines that were 2005 ish. All ran like crap and ended up putting the adjustable carb for the fix.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

AriensProMike said:


> I had a similar issue with a 926 around that same year. The adjustable carb ironed it out and ran a top after. I had a couple of those machines that were 2005 ish. All ran like crap and ended up putting the adjustable carb for the fix.


Yes, I think the non-adjustable carbs only seem to work well with the OHV engines, not the flatheads.


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## solsun (Dec 27, 2017)

tpenfield said:


> Yes, I think the non-adjustable carbs only seem to work well with the OHV engines, not the flatheads.



I’m wondering if my carb is the source of the issues I’m having. I just put a new 640349 on my 926 flathead and it ran well briefly, now it dies under load.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

solsun said:


> I’m wondering if my carb is the source of the issues I’m having. I just put a new 640349 on my 926 flathead and it ran well briefly, now it dies under load.


It would be worth a try with the old style (adjustable) carb . . .


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## solsun (Dec 27, 2017)

tpenfield said:


> It would be worth a try with the old style (adjustable) carb . . .




Agreed, I believe the carb that came on it (Ariens 926LE) was adjustable. I’ll need to get a rebuild kit for it, it was leaking gas from the bowl seal when I bought it. In the interest of time I just bought an oem replacement carb.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

ket:wink2:


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I am still waiting on the parts that I ordered. Too bad they have not come yet, as I could have used last night's snow as a good work-out for the machine.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Clean the old carb and try that again. You know it worked for years, so should work again . . .


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I may not see the adjustable carb and new muffler until next week. This is the first time that I've had problems with Amazon, supposedly they have shipped now (after a week of nothing). :roll3yes:

So, I was thinking if I bore out the jet on the existing carb a bit, I might get better engine performance. :smiley-confused013:

If that does not work, I'll (eventually) have the adjustable carb to replace it.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Magically, the parts arrived today. :smile2:









I got a spark plug, fuel filter, and shutoff valve with the carburetor 'kit'. Not sure I'll put the shutoff or the filter on just yet. It already has the shutoff valve, but I don't think it has a fuel filter, other than what might be in the tank.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I installed the new carburetor and the new spark plug, as well as the new muffler. The engine seems to run better now that I can adjust the mixture. The muffler is a lot quieter, so I can actually hear the engine running. I did some snow blowing to test out the engine under load and it hangs right in there.

Ran a compression test with the starter and got 120 PSI . . . *not sure how that compares to what a flathead should be???* I would imagine the compression is less than the OHV engines, due to the extra volume in the cylinder head. On my Briggs 305cc OHV I got 150 psi and on the Tecumseh 318cc OHV I got 160 psi, all via the same procedure (using the electric start to spin the engine)

If we get any more snow this season, I'll test it out some more.

There are a few rust spots and minor paint bubbling. . . wondering what would be a good paint match, or *if there is an Ariens color matched paint?*

There is about 0.3" gap between the impeller blades and the housing. The machine does not throw wet snow very far . . . maybe 10-12 feet. * I am wondering if an impeller mod would be a good thing for this Ariens.* I have not seen many folks talk about doing the impeller mods on the Arines machines.

BTW - The electric starter was just loose and one bolt was missing. After I remounted it, it works fine . . . so I got an extra starter motor on the way, in case anyone needs one.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I use Rustoleum Allis Chalmers Orange on all my Ariens. I think that Chevrolet Orange engine paint is a good match as well. I brush on the inside of the buckets and spray the outside. I've got an ST 824 Chondra with impeller kit, and a 1978 924 32'' with a more modern 10 hp Tech with the kit as well. the only machine I've seen that may not benefit from the kit is my 521 Toro....almost no clearance between impeller and drum...less then 1/8 in.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

tp, I put impeller kits on all the blowers I keep and are family member ones. It is a bit more difficult install on older Ariens because the impeller fins are much thicker, similar to old JD, Toro, Simplicity. I call them "two hands needed" impeller/augers. If you work on these machines regularly you'll notice you can't just grab a complete auger and impeller unit one handed from these older style machines. I redid a Murray built Craftsman a couple seasons ago and it was an easy pick from ground to bench one handed. My 924038 Ariens and old JD 826 required both hands ( and a bit of a strong back) to get on the bench. I refurbed a Simplicity for a neighbor that was a heavy weight also. Sharp drill bits and patience to get through the metal on these impellers:wink2: Most of the new ones don't have a complete bucket edge to bucket edge auger shaft anymore either, reducing the weight. I've pulled auger/impellers off modern 30" Troy's or Craftsman easier than a '70's Ariens 20" 2.7hp blower.:surprise:


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

in my sig is my diy impeller mod vids, u wont feel sorry for doing it, fyi use new/sharp drill bits


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

vinnycom said:


> in my sig is my diy impeller mod vids, u wont feel sorry for doing it, fyi use new/sharp drill bits


Thanks Vinny. :smile2:

I have done a couple impeller mods so far. My Troy-bilt, which desperately needed it, and my Toro Powershift. I am surprised that the Ariens machine does not have tighter tolerances on the impeller/housing.

I have some Cobalt drill bits, which should be fine.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Quick update:

I did some basic cleaning on the machine and have separated the bucket and chassis. The Ariens split pretty easily . . . 2 large bolts on top and the bottom is hinged.









There are some rust areas inside and outside on the bucket, but overall is in decent shape.

























I am not sure if the impeller shaft is supposed to come out easily or if it needs a puller. On my Toro machines I was able to pound the shaft loose with a few whacks with the BFH. I tried the same here, but no luck so far. So, I figure that I should ask.









There is a slight amount of play in the impeller bearing (maybe 0.05") . . . not sure if that is OK, or if it is worth replacing. I certainly would give it a good greasing even if it is OK.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I managed to get the impeller shaft out . . . a bit tighter fit than the Toro's, but the BFH prevailed.

It does need a new bearing, the old one feels rough turning and has a little play in it. The bearing is a type 1635RS . . . the snowblower part sites have it at about $25 whereas bearing web sites have it at less than half that cost . . . around $10.

Probably not going to pay $25 for a $10 bearing lain:

Meanwhile, I got the auger/impeller rust treated and repainted. Also have the bucket scraped, ground, and rust treated.

I'll post a few more pics once the pieces are dry. Looks like I won't be able to test the machine out on the coming snow storm, since the bearing will take a few days to get.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

What rubs me raw is stuff like that bearing I used to be able to punch into an auto parts store and find it. Maybe a good price, maybe not but at least it gave me an option of getting it there sometimes much sooner than ordering from an online store. Tried Oreilly, autozone and Napa . . . . zip. Nothing comes up, nothing crosses over for the bearing.

.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

tpenfield said:


> Probably not going to pay $25 for a $10 bearing lain:


Tp, it's the same on lawn and garden tractors, just take the number off the bearing and replace. How John Deere, Troy, ********, MTD and Ariens and all others convinced people they made these parts is beyond me. One of the worst scenarios is replacing front wheel bushings on lawn tractors, especially JD low level L series. Steel slug over a softer steel axle and they want $16 a piece for them and there's four??????? $6 hardware flanged roller bearings fit better and roll better. It's nearly as bad as the insurance fraud in MI. Actually, I take that back. There's nothing more expensive or cramped in fraud than MI no-fault insurance.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> What rubs me raw is stuff like that bearing I used to be able to punch into an auto parts store and find it. Maybe a good price, maybe not but at least it gave me an option of getting it there sometimes much sooner than ordering from an online store. Tried Oreilly, autozone and Napa . . . . zip. Nothing comes up, nothing crosses over for the bearing.
> 
> .


Ace Hardware had some bearings, but not quite the size of the 1635RS, they seem to stop one size down in their parts bin :sad2:. I was thinking of going to the auto parts store, but that bearing is small vs. automotive bearings, so I probably have to get it online or scout out a specialty shop nearby.

I got some painting done, but still need to find Ariens color match. Maybe I'll just order some online, since I got to get the bearing as well.

Here are some pics of my afternoon 'fun'


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Ted....Rustoleum Allis Chalmers Orange.......


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I was able to get the Ariens paint for a decent price, so I went for it.

The paint appears to be a lacquer not and enamel? Not quite sure, but it has a bunch of solvents in it. Acetone, MEK, etc. I had to do a light dusting at first, in order to avoid wrinkling the primer coat. Then a few heavier coats.

























I don't think I'll get the machine back together in time to test it on the coming storm, but we'll see. :smile2:


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

most bearings have it stamped right into the side of the grease seal. I buy the most common ones in bulk on ebay


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

cranman said:


> Ted....Rustoleum Allis Chalmers Orange.......


Yup was a perfect match on my 1027 chute and will be doing the same on a 8524 once it warms a little, will be a good sell next season.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Looking good Ted...you've put so much work into this one, now you've got to keep it!


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I will be finishing up the painting tonight as there are a few spots that need a going over. Then I can start putting this machine back together.

I may sell the Husqvarna ST224 and this one (Ariens ST824LE) in the Fall as snow season is once again approaching.

I'll use the Toro 521 at my summer house (Cape Cod) for the occasional snow there and the Troy-Bilt and Toro Powershift at my primary residence.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Forgot to mention that I ordered the bearing last week off eBay. Really set me back too . . . $7.59 :grin:


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

BTW - I took the rubber seal off of the old bearing (right side in image) to see what it looks like on the inside. Dry and rusty are the words.

I also took the rubber seal off the new bearing (left in image) to see how much grease was put in at the factory (not too much).









I usually try to load up the sealed bearings that I buy with some extra grease as a means of getting more life out of them. So, I packed in a bunch more marine grease and sealed it back up.


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## guybb3 (Jan 31, 2014)

tpenfield said:


> I usually try to load up the sealed bearings that I buy with some extra grease as a means of getting more life out of them. So, I packed in a bunch more marine grease and sealed it back up.
> 
> View attachment 139178




I was going to ask what you use to get the seal out, then I saw the jeweler's screwdriver.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

guybb3 said:


> I was going to ask what you use to get the seal out, then I saw the jeweler's screwdriver.


Yes, anything with a fine tip would do. The rubber seal came off/went back on quite easily. Surprising how little grease is in these 'pre-lubed' bearings lain:


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Well, I'm not a fan of the Ariens spray paint. It was much harder to work with as compared to a typical Rustoleum spray. So, for future reference, I woulda, coulda, shoulda gone with the Rustoleum AC Orange lain:

The finish of the Ariens paint was so variable that I decided to add a clearcoat, using a Rustoleum clear enamel, just to clean up the surface a bit. Looks better than it did.

Assembly was a snap. Bearing & holder, then auger assembly, impeller pulley & belt. Then a mating of the 2 machine halves and tightening of the 2 top bolts. Then connect the chute & control rod . . . done.









































I might get a chance to use the machine with the snow tonight. We'll see.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

nice job tp looks great
be carefull using it before the paint and clear have cured
clear takes awhile
id wait 2 weeks


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Beautiful job Ted....looks too good to use.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks guys.

It does look too good to use . . . so, I put it up on CL this morning :smile2:

Maybe it will sell now, but if not, I'll wait until November.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I've had the Ad up on CL for about 1 week. Only 1 response so far. 

A guy asked me if I would take any offer? I replied that I would not accept any offer, but feel free to make an offer. He did. I responded that I would accept the offer. . . haven't heard from him since. lain:

I'm thinking he was hoping I'd say no . . .


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Yea not a lot of buyers for good machines now, come fall I’ll have a 724 a 8524 and most likely my SnoTek modded out with big tires, heated grips and a light, and that’s just the Ariens I’ll have to sell lol


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