# Techumseh 5hp will only run on choke



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

I just got it (used). It starts up very easily, but only want to idle with the choke on full and sometime half. I let it idle for about 10-15 minutes total, but every couple minutes I would try to back off the choke and it would shut off when I turned it off completely. Even after 10 minutes of warm up, it would idle at half choke, but when I engaged the auger or the tracks, it would stall. I had to put it on full choke in order to "drive" it back into the garage.

Is this a dirty carb issue?


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Sounds like the carb. Did you test it before you bought it? 

Could also be air leaks in the carb gaskets, plugged fuel lines or bad vent in gas cap.
I would start with pulling the bowl off the carb and have a look inside. You might get away with a quick cleaning while it is still on the engine.


----------



## fishingdan (Jan 27, 2011)

Rebuild the carb or buy a aftermarket replacement (ex: Oregon brand) carb. I did both over the year and eventually went with the latter. Carb kit is $10-$15. Aftermarket new carb is $50-$60.


----------



## BOSMECH (Dec 16, 2010)

Clean and rebuild the carb problem will be solved.


----------



## indypower (Oct 28, 2010)

fishingdan said:


> Rebuild the carb or buy a aftermarket replacement (ex: Oregon brand) carb. I did both over the year and eventually went with the latter. Carb kit is $10-$15. Aftermarket new carb is $50-$60.


Carbs are no longer available from Oregon. CPC, who bought Tecumseh Small Engines, sued Oregon for patent infringment and won. Oregon was ordered to stop selling carbs and to remove all from the distribution system. Distributors & dealers were told to return un sold carbs to Oregon.


----------



## fishingdan (Jan 27, 2011)

Didn't know that. I just bought one in December.


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

I am planning to rebuild the carb. My motor is an HS50 . What other info do I need to determine which carb I have? I didn't see any numbers on the carb itself.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Take the engine numbers (HS50-xxxxx) and put them in here:
Partstree.com - Genuine replacement parts for Toro, Echo, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, Lawn Boy (Lawnboy), lawn equipment (lawn mowers, saws, blowers, trimmers, snow blowers) and Tecumseh, Kohler and Briggs and Stratton Engines.

That should give you all the part numbers you need.


----------



## Madmax442 (Jan 13, 2011)

My 74' Ariens had the same issue. I was lucky it only needed a cleaning and put it back together and it works great!


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

Using the Parts Tree website, I found my carb part number, but I could not find the rebuild kit anywhere. Where can I turn my carb number (640084B) into a rebuild kit part number?

HS50 67270H


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If you expand the carb number that parts list has what looks like a first aid kit in the picture and that is the kit number. The carb is listed under "ättachments for this model".

Carb 632107 replaced by 640084B
Repair kit 31840


----------



## indypower (Oct 28, 2010)

Carb kit #31840


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

Ok. I did find that number elsewhere and ordered it from Amazon along with a new gasket. It should be here next week.

Where do I find the instructions for adjusting the screws and such?


----------



## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)




----------



## dgktech (Nov 7, 2010)

The part number for a rebuild kit is 31840


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

bwdbrn1 said:


> YouTube - HOW TO ADJUST SNOWBLOWER CARBURETOR


 Nice. I subscribed to his Youtube Channel. He has a lot of cool videos. That ought to keep me out of my wife's hair for a while this weekend.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

djturnz said:


> Nice. I subscribed to his Youtube Channel. He has a lot of cool videos. That ought to keep me out of my wife's hair for a while this weekend.


That is true. He can show you how to rebuild the carb too.


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

Yep, I watched that series as well. I don't have that special tool though. I downloaded the tuning video to my phone so I have access to it while I am in the garage. I will probably do the same with the carb rebuild videos.


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

And here I thought the snow was done for the year. It looks like we are supposed to get 6-8 inches. So I guess I'll be doing the carb re-build tonight when I get home from work. I watched donyboy77's videos on the subject. I don't have the Techumseh tool. Is it possible without the tool? If not, I may just disassemble and clean it good and just use the new gaskets.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You don't need any special tools.

You can use an 11/64ths bit for the float, but if you don't disturb it you should not have to mess with it.

As long as your careful you should be able to get away with just cleaning it and putting it back together. You probably just need to clean the holes in the nut that holds the bowl on and wipe the bowl out.

Oh yea, you bought the kit. Don't mess with the welsh plugs. The needle seat can be removed with a paper clip or other small hook. The new one can be put in using the back side of a drill bit or other small round punch. If it is not leaking you don't need to mess with it, but probably wouldn't hurt to change while you have it apart. Make sure the new one is installed with the flat side facing the needle and the side with a circle around it facing the fuel hose.

Stop at an auto parts store on the way home and pick up a $2 spray can of carb cleaner. That stuff works wonders compared to PB Blaster for cleaning.


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

Rebuild done. I didn't see this before I started. I didn't replace the little round caps. I wish the kit came with the one rubber gasket. It was a little beat up looking. The wire on the float valve was broken. I assumed that is why it was leaking? Probably over filled. Here are my old needles.









Is the crushed mixture screw normal wear? It seems that it was turned in way too far at one point. The other one is slightly eroded. 

When I restarted it, it ran on choke for about 30 seconds and started running rough. I killed the choke and it ran great. I was able to engage the auger and roll at the same time with no choke and half throttle.
So I guess its good.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The little round caps are somewhat annoying to get out and you can damage your carb trying so best to leave those be.

The smashed needle looks like a good example of why they say gently seat them. It could have also been restricting the fuel flow and have been your major problem the whole time.

The wire on the float valve sounds like the clip that holds the needle. I can see how that might cause a problem.

Glad everything is running great now.


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

The wire I am refering to is clipped to the top of the square needle that rides on the float. We got 6" last night. I got up at 3:30 and cleaned off the vehicles then started blowing snow around 4am. Boy was that fun. Much better than with my Gilson. Our houses are very close together and I was worried about blowing snow early in the morning. I figure this may be the last one of the year, and my Hechinger is quieter than my Gilson. I figured that my neighbors would be over it by next winter. When I was leaving for work at 5:45, my one neighbor was out and she said she never heard a thing. So maybe it won't be too bad to blow snow early in the morning next year.

I actually think that the previous owner may have done a partial rebuild of the carb. Some of the stuff inside looked very new, and some looked quite old. I was somewhat disapointed that I got a newer snowblower, and then I thought we were done with snow for the year.

I did make one mistake. I forgot to spray my augers and such with silicone before I started.


----------

