# 2010 Briggs snow series motor



## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

The machine it is on is a Husqvarna 14527E and it is an American made motor. This machine is under built and over powered eats auger belts and I don't push it. This is what happened I went out and started it always started two pulls. Never used electric start only to test it. The motor has been the best part. I started it the other day and was making sure the auger was going to turn and don't remember if I throttled down or what I was doing. But the motor backfired and quit. I haven't checked the fly wheel or the valves yet. But with the e start it will turn over and stop. With the recoil if I pull it pass the compression point it will do the same thing. I am assuming the fly wheel key sheared but what would cause the there was not load. Except in engaging the auger. I ran for at least 10 minutes and move fine. Just wondering two things what would cause this and where to start. I am thinking the fly wheel because I pulled the plug wire and it seemed to turn over OK. It is kind of a blur I was a little tick off this machine has less than 50 hours on it. it also seems to be pushing out of the carb. I couldn't feel any air coming out of the exhaust either. My body is failing me that is why I am asking before digging in normally I would just tear it apart and figure it out. I used an old MTD to finish. They don't make them like they used to!!! 
Thanks in advance for any reply's


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Sorry, I'm not 100% clear on the symptoms. 

Is the electric starter able to turn the engine normally? Is the pull starter able to turn it normally? 

In both cases, it turns, but won't start? 

A backfire *can* shear a flywheel key, especially if the flywheel nut was under-torqued. If the engine can rotate normally, and has compression, but won't start, then I'd agree that a sheared flywheel key could cause that. 

At least check for spark before tearing into the engine, if it's turning normally.

If you're not feeling any air from the exhaust, though, you might have an exhaust valve problem. Bent exhaust pushrod, broken rocker arm, etc. Removing the valve cover (I'm assuming OHV) and watching the valves while turning the engine would tell you a lot.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> Sorry, I'm not 100% clear on the symptoms.
> 
> Is the electric starter able to turn the engine normally? Is the pull starter able to turn it normally?
> 
> ...


No neither starter will turn the motor over unless I pull very hard. Then it puffs out of the air intake. I have never sheared a fly wheel key on anything ever. But it seems like a common problem. I should be able to get at it later this week. Thanks I will check those first.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Pulling the spark plug, then trying the starters, will help confirm that you're fighting compression, and not something else. 

If your exhaust valve isn't opening at all, your compression during starting will be really high, since the compression release won't function. That'll make it quite a bit harder to turn. And it would be consistent with what you're describing, with no air from the exhaust.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

As RedOctobyr was alluding to, pull the valve cover off and make sure both rocker arms are moving up and down. It is very rare to shear a flywheel key on a snow blower motor. I also say you probably have a valve problem.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

Grunt said:


> As RedOctobyr was alluding to, pull the valve cover off and make sure both rocker arms are moving up and down. It is very rare to shear a flywheel key on a snow blower motor. I also say you probably have a valve problem.


Thanks I will look at valves first. Just seems weird that it was running fine and then not. I did see a video about these motors they have a pin that is permanently connected to the cam shaft that hold a small spring and lever to open the decompression. If it breaks you have to get a new cam shaft. This motor doesn't have that many hours on it I bought it because it was a Briggs. made in the U.S as far as the rest of the blower is concerned the controls on top are nice but the auger is small and doesn't pick up snow well. Throws it 50 ft.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

If you wanted a sense of whether the exhaust valve is able to open, you could loosen the spark plug in the threads. That might act as a crude compression release. Leave the plug wire disconnected, you don't want it to actually start like this. 

Then see if you can get the engine to turn, and if so, feel for air coming out the exhaust. If air comes out, that's good, the valve is functioning. 

Heck, maybe you got lucky and the rocker arm adjuster loosened itself, messing with the function of the valve. Or maybe a pushrod bent. Something cheap and easy.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> If you wanted a sense of whether the exhaust valve is able to open, you could loosen the spark plug in the threads. That might act as a crude compression release. Leave the plug wire disconnected, you don't want it to actually start like this.
> 
> Then see if you can get the engine to turn, and if so, feel for air coming out the exhaust. If air comes out, that's good, the valve is functioning.
> 
> Heck, maybe you got lucky and the rocker arm adjuster loosened itself, messing with the function of the valve. Or maybe a pushrod bent. Something cheap and easy.


I will be working on this tomorrow but I did disconnect the plug and pulled it over and it didn't rip the cord out of my had but it did seem to pull hard. I just hope it isn't a problem with the cam. I was reading they had some problems with the decompression release on the cam shaft. But when I reconnected the plug it rip out of my hand. I haven't had much luck with this blower it is newer than 2010 I think I bought it 3 years ago. I will do a review. I needed a blower late in the season I only had a small window to use my neighbors van and pick one up. I have had a Husqvarna lawn tractor never had any problems. So I thought the snow blowers would be as good a quality. Not the case in this model.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Sounds like timing, and you are getting spark too early, thus counter rotation pulling the starter cord out of your hand, and blowing back out the intake (essentially, if fires the entire intake . . .). Points back to flywheel key again . . .


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

tadawson said:


> Sounds like timing, and you are getting spark too early, thus counter rotation pulling the starter cord out of your hand, and blowing back out the intake (essentially, if fires the entire intake . . .). Points back to flywheel key again . . .


This is what I found so far 1 broken rod on the exhaust valve and a bent rod on intake. They are made of aluminum there goes my bias toward B&S. The parts list shows to Tappets on the bottom are these going to be gone and I have to open up the case to find them or will they be sitting there just waiting for me to insert rod. I have never had a problem with any of my equipment having any problems with the valves. I ordered 2 sets of rods. I might just buy a new machine isn't that what they make credit cards for. Fix this one when I have time and buy some thing for under 2 grand that has all controls on top and plenty of power. My friend has 2 MTD's he has had for 12 years and never had a problem with them. One is a 30". I just changed the belts and they were still in good shape went through the entire machine everything thing was fine. Maybe that is the way to go. I just need the distance throw. They don't make stuff like they used to that is for sure.:icon_cussing_black:


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

*I do Arboist work*



oldackonoak said:


> This is what I found so far 1 broken rod on the exhaust valve and a bent rod on intake. They are made of aluminum there goes my bias toward B&S. The parts list shows to Tappets on the bottom are these going to be gone and I have to open up the case to find them or will they be sitting there just waiting for me to insert rod. I have never had a problem with any of my equipment having any problems with the valves. I ordered 2 sets of rods. I might just buy a new machine isn't that what they make credit cards for. Fix this one when I have time and buy some thing for under 2 grand that has all controls on top and plenty of power. My friend has 2 MTD's he has had for 12 years and never had a problem with them. One is a 30". I just changed the belts and they were still in good shape went through the entire machine everything thing was fine. Maybe that is the way to go. I just need the distance throw. They don't make stuff like they used to that is for sure.:icon_cussing_black:


Just wanted to add on to this that I am a now part time Arborist and do some logging I love 2 stroke motors just so much simpler I have a 21" lawn boy with a 4hp 2 stroke I start it at least once a year and it always runs perfect. Just wanted to throw that out there. I don't know why just a RANT!!


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

On my Tecumseh, the pushrods are aluminum, as I recall. I assume this is for lower reciprocating mass, to avoid valvetrain trouble at higher RPM. 

They fact that both are damaged seems a bit concerning. If just one failed due to bad luck, I wouldn't have assumed the other would also fail at the same time. Unless one could hit the other?

But with both damaged, I wonder if something else might have contributed to that?


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> On my Tecumseh, the pushrods are aluminum, as I recall. I assume this is for lower reciprocating mass, to avoid valvetrain trouble at higher RPM.
> 
> They fact that both are damaged seems a bit concerning. If just one failed due to bad luck, I wouldn't have assumed the other would also fail at the same time. Unless one could hit the other?
> 
> But with both damaged, I wonder if something else might have contributed to that?


My thoughts exactly!!! Unless the other bent when I was trying to restart it and it pulled the recoil out of my hand. I will check the fly wheel to be sure of that. Also there are 2 tappets at the bottom of those will they still be there?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

oldackonoak said:


> Also there are 2 tappets at the bottom of those will they still be there?


If the camshaft hasn't broken, the lifters will still be in place.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I'd have a hard time believing a kick-back during starting could bend pushrods. 

It's a violent event for your shoulder, but the camshaft is still turning much much slower than during operation. So I'd think it's still fairly gentle on the pushrods.

I can't speak for the tappets at the bottom. I'd hope they're still there, I guess. I've removed pushrods, and they went together fine, but there wasn't a violent failure.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Not sure if it's possible in your engine, but if OHV, almost sounds like it somehow jumped valve timing and the piston hit the valves . . . I'm really struggling to think of anything else that could take out both rods . . .


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

*Thanks You*

Thank you everyone we will see what happens I order an extra set just in case. I have worked on just about everything on every motor never ran into a valve problem like this. I will let you know what happens. 
Thanks again these forums are a super resource!!
Ted A.K.A. Oldackonoak


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

tadawson said:


> Not sure if it's possible in your engine, but if OHV, almost sounds like it somehow jumped valve timing and the piston hit the valves . . . I'm really struggling to think of anything else that could take out both rods . . .


I don't think the piston could hit the push rods they both have their own casing they run through. I don't think any thing could hit them they seem to be protected. And I can't think of the correct word for what I trying to say it's like a 3/8" tube. 
Thanks for the input every thought is greatly appreciated !!
Ted


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

oldackonoak said:


> I don't think the piston could hit the push rods they both have their own casing they run through. I don't think any thing could hit them they seem to be protected. And I can't think of the correct word for what I trying to say it's like a 3/8" tube.
> Thanks for the input every thought is greatly appreciated !!
> Ted


Its not too difficult to remove the head from a Briggs OHV engine. After reading what you found with the pushrods, I would be inclined to pull the head and check to see if valves are damaged and that the close and seal properly. 

I have a briggs 305CC snow engine on my 2008 machine and it has the symptoms of a broken compression release gizzmo on the cam shaft, very hard to pull over manually, but still starts with the electric start. Breaking that compression release device (from what I have read its not an uncommon problem) by itself, should not keep the engine from starting


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

oldackonoak said:


> I don't think the piston could hit the push rods they both have their own casing they run through. I don't think any thing could hit them they seem to be protected. And I can't think of the correct word for what I trying to say it's like a 3/8" tube.
> Thanks for the input every thought is greatly appreciated !!
> Ted


I was thinking more piston to valve contact, and the push rods being the weak link in the chain . . . As others have noted, I think pulling the head would be a good idea as well . . . 

- Tim


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

tadawson said:


> I was thinking more piston to valve contact, and the push rods being the weak link in the chain . . . As others have noted, I think pulling the head would be a good idea as well . . .
> 
> - Tim


I don't understand what pulling the head would do. It looks like the valves are to far to the left and encased to have contact with the piston. The valve cover is to far to the left. But looks can be deceiving. Could someone explain how this could happen and what I should look for if I pull the head? I can see the vale springs like a car motor can't I just pull the vales from that point? I am very confused. I have s\worked on just about every type of small engine and never ran into valve problems so this is a Greek to me but a new learning experience which I like and it is going to snow maybe 3' I can do that with my old MTD or Yard machine I am not sure what make it is but it still works. Had to bolt a tire weight to the front the last time to break through the ice top layer.
Thanks
Ted


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I haven't worked on one of these, so my apologies if I mis-state something obvious with your engine. 

But often with small OHV engines, the valves are above the piston. Pulling the head would show if there are dents on the piston, and valves, due to the piston somehow hitting the valves. As to why that would happen, I don't know. Maybe a broken camshaft that allowed the valves to be in the wrong position when the piston came up. Maybe a broken connecting rod. 

If pulling the spark plug and using a flashlight could show possible dents on the piston, that would be easier than pulling the head. 

Do the pushrods try to move if you turn the engine? That might be enough to tell you if there's a broken camshaft, without needing to disassemble things further. At some point, damage may be enough that you consider an engine swap.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> I haven't worked on one of these, so my apologies if I mis-state something obvious with your engine.
> 
> But often with small OHV engines, the valves are above the piston. Pulling the head would show if there are dents on the piston, and valves, due to the piston somehow hitting the valves. As to why that would happen, I don't know. Maybe a broken camshaft that allowed the valves to be in the wrong position when the piston came up. Maybe a broken connecting rod.
> 
> ...


Yes the push rod were moving at least the intake not sure about the exhaust but I can see the piston with no problem I will take look at it and see it there are any dent or marks. Great idea thank you very much. I will know more tomorrow or Saturday. The rods are coming in tomorrow afternoon.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

oldackonoak said:


> I don't understand what pulling the head would do. It looks like the valves are to far to the left and encased to have contact with the piston. The valve cover is to far to the left. But looks can be deceiving. Could someone explain how this could happen and what I should look for if I pull the head? I can see the vale springs like a car motor can't I just pull the vales from that point? I am very confused. I have s\worked on just about every type of small engine and never ran into valve problems so this is a Greek to me but a new learning experience which I like and it is going to snow maybe 3' I can do that with my old MTD or Yard machine I am not sure what make it is but it still works. Had to bolt a tire weight to the front the last time to break through the ice top layer.
> Thanks
> Ted


Pretty much what RedOctobyr said . . . typically in an OHV engine, the valves are directly above the piston. Typically, valves off to the side, housed in the block, and opening upward is known as a 'flathead' or ''L-head' . . . This does have a valve cover covering rocker arms atop the cylinder, right? Or have we misassumed the type of engine? (Or maybe it is just atypical . . . . ). A photo or engine model number would help . . .


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

oldackonoak said:


> I don't understand what pulling the head would do. It looks like the valves are to far to the left and encased to have contact with the piston. The valve cover is to far to the left. But looks can be deceiving. Could someone explain how this could happen and what I should look for if I pull the head? I can see the vale springs like a car motor can't I just pull the vales from that point? I am very confused. I have s\worked on just about every type of small engine and never ran into valve problems so this is a Greek to me but a new learning experience which I like and it is going to snow maybe 3'
> Thanks
> Ted


It sounds like you have not yet had the pleasure of dealing with a sick OHV engine. 

Pulling a head *lets you have a good look* at the valves, piston, and a chance to remove valves easily to see if stems are straight, and sealing surfaces and valve seats and guides are in good shape. 

Since you have had a rather strange problem that sort of sound like a serious spark timing problem (flywheel out of position) and a large backfire that damaged components in the valve train (which you discovered by removing them), I was simply suggesting that you have a good look see at the head and valves for damage before you try starting the engine again after checking the flywheel key and the ignition coil position. 

You can see some stuff through the spark plug hole, but not valve stems, seats, guides etc.


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## old ope mechanic (Feb 16, 2018)

ok i've been slumming around in here, this back yard tech thread has made me join up. 

pushrods just don't bend for no reason, there is always a reason to why! the largest is something under it failed. most of the time in a briggs i find a failed camshaft. 

a brigs motor uses a pedestal style rocker arm,just like in a windsor block ford, the pedestal is the pivot point and bolts down to the head, rock solid, the adjuster screw has a pocket that holds the push rod's upper pivot, the lifter is a MUSHROOM style meaning it looks like a oversized NAIL head, that has a pocket to hold the lower end of the pushrod ,it CAN NOT fall out of place unless the camshaft is removed, 

please remember brigs uses a camshaft, that is either all plastic, has a plastic gear on a steel camshaft, most are fully plastic, on a hollow core steel shaft for the bearing ends or has a plastic gear on a steel cam, let the motor run hot or low on oil they fail. a ope engine save a few brands upper end modes are all splash oiled.NO oil or low oil they fail pretty fast. 

what in my mind the op has had happen is the camshaft failed, when it failed the resistance he felt was the open valve was hit by the piston head. which in turn caused the pushrods to break / bend, the second PR bent when the cam made a partial turn opening the valve, almost like a hydrolock resulting from a flooding over carb, something has to give, weak link first 
the pushrods being a weaker link
i feel pretty sure when the head is removed there will be marks in the piston head and bent valves that can be seen as being off the cocked off the seat, using something fluid to fill the chamber it should drain back into the port 

there are a ton of youtube videos showing how the camshafts fail for anyone who wishes to take time to look.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

old ope mechanic said:


> ok i've been slumming around in here, this back yard tech thread has made me join up.
> 
> pushrods just don't bend for no reason, there is always a reason to why! the largest is something under it failed. most of the time in a briggs i find a failed camshaft.
> 
> ...


Thanks for that info that is why I bought 2 sets of rods. I will install them and see if the valve are working. If something seems off I will pull the head but it sure looks like I can remove the valves from the top no maybe not the springs are there and the valve stem but the end of the valve would be on the inside. This motor is a 2012 or 13 not many hours 50 at most. Always clean fresh oil I learned that the hard way. I will check out You Tube I have never seen and plastic on a camshaft before. That is new to me. This is a great learning experience I very excited and a little POed But this is how I have learned to do every thing else!! Hard knocks and this winter is full of them. Need a new hip and I am one hurting puppy. Doesn't help much. Log splitter is got but valve and cylinder is leaking. Another learning experience. I love these forums you get and give information to each other and learn from others without making more mistake than you would without them. The Arborist forums are great I have put allot of info in to the for the younger guys. not many young people want to get their hand dirty any more.
Thanks allot!!
Ted


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## old ope mechanic (Feb 16, 2018)

when you replace the push rods slowly turn the motor over, try to feel for any binding while looking at the valves to see if they bind at all. chances are the camshaft/drive gear failed, which let the valves meet the piston head which in turn caused the binding that made the push rods bend and snap. they are next to the small valve stem the weakest links. 

i strongly feel you will wind up removing the head as there is no way to remove the valves with it on. i am a bit worried that you may also have bent a valve when the piston head caused the bind/bend that made the PR's bend 
good luck,
age wise i to am up there! mid 70's been working on ope/small engines since age 12 racing go karts, yes a new pair of knees and hips would be nice also


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

old ope mechanic said:


> when you replace the push rods slowly turn the motor over, try to feel for any binding while looking at the valves to see if they bind at all. chances are the camshaft/drive gear failed, which let the valves meet the piston head which in turn caused the binding that made the push rods bend and snap. they are next to the small valve stem the weakest links.
> 
> i strongly feel you will wind up removing the head as there is no way to remove the valves with it on. i am a bit worried that you may also have bent a valve when the piston head caused the bind/bend that made the PR's bend
> good luck,
> age wise i to am up there! mid 70's been working on ope/small engines since age 12 racing go karts, yes a new pair of knees and hips would be nice also



I think we should ask the admins to add a new category to the board for those of us that are looking for spare parts for our bodies. 

I need knees, one hip, a neck and a left leg from hip to knee, below the knee, rest of the leg is great. :grin:


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## 351beno (Oct 12, 2017)

Check the new push rod length. If they are different you will have to change the tappets inside the motor then you can check the cam good. You can push the valve/spring down and hear if they close good and also measure the height that will tell you if a valve is bent. Most likely one rod came out of adjustment and took the other out. On these none hydraulic ohv motors they do need adjustments every now and then. I see alot fail in the 25 to 100 hour mark if not checked.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

351beno said:


> Check the new push rod length. If they are different you will have to change the tappets inside the motor then you can check the cam good. You can push the valve/spring down and hear if they close good and also measure the height that will tell you if a valve is bent. Most likely one rod came out of adjustment and took the other out. On these none hydraulic ohv motors they do need adjustments every now and then. I see alot fail in the 25 to 100 hour mark if not checked.


Thanks to everyone I pick up the rods yesterday it will be in the 60's later this weak and I will be able to work on the machine for a longer length of time it is stored in my barn that has no heat or power so I can bring it up to the garage that is full of [email protected]#T so I can no longer work inside of it but that is going to change. I use to work in there year round I have every thing you can imagine in there. Far to many chain saws. But when I do put the rods in I will carefully turn the motor over by hand and if even the decompression doesn't work. I will disassemble the unit. I don't want chunks of metal floating around in there possibly ruining a fairly good motor. 
I would sincerely like to thank all of you. You have been in valuable!!!!
Ted
P.S. An extra body parts thing is a good idea. I think the broken or worn out part come from guys that work for a living. Or work after work.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

old ope mechanic said:


> ok i've been slumming around in here, this back yard tech thread has made me join up.


:welcome: to SBF

.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

*More news tomorrow*



Kiss4aFrog said:


> :welcome: to SBF
> 
> .


Thanks for the welcome. I will install the new rods tomorrow and turn motor over by hand gently at top dead center the valves or one of the should be slightly opened if decompression is working. If I cannot tell from that then I will put plug in and try to turn over. If I feel allot of compression then I will just order a cam shaft and gaskets. And pull it apart and remove an metal that might be floating around in there. I don't know if those parts are steel or not. The only other thought I had is to drain oil and fish around with a flexible magnet that I would have to make. And if I do find something and it doesn't fit through the drain hole I will have to remove the camshaft any way. There is no sense in ruining a motor with around probably much less than 50 hours on it and probably do more damage inside. Again I must say the SCF has been a valuable recourse and at least makes me stop and think. If we get more snow I have that old Yard machine that is still plugging along. that was a freebie some one was tossing out. I sold a 24; Husqavarna for 150 that was running well had some bearing problems and I told the buyer everything I new about it.I think this machine will be my back up they should have some good sales this year not much snow and it is toward the end of the season. 
I would like to hear everyone's opinion on the best machine for around 2000 or less. I like the Ariens and the new high end Huqavarna looks good but I will have to look to make sure they went with a heavier auger belt of have two. I really like the controls on top. The weight bar. Traction and throw distance of this 14527. But the auger and 3 fin second stage are small. And the auger belts are undersized and then there is this motor issue and no brace on the auger and a few other things that are just under built. 
Let me know what is out there. I have gravel and grass. Total 200 feet or more. Maybe the Walmart brand might be the way to go!!
Thanks 
Ted


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

*It's Running Fine*

Long story short I put in the new push rods and removed the head found nothing wrong. Valves were properly gaped. Put every thing back together and started first pull. Some how the spark plug got cross threaded so I tried all of the taps I have to chase the tread and the 12/ 20 was the closest buy was small. I have good tap and die sets do they make a special plug tap? I ran the plug down in there slow in and out. Got it in. That the story let me know about the Plug tap.
Thanks for all of your help guy's!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ted


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I wouldn't have expected it to simply be fine after installing new pushrods, but that's great! I expected that *something* rather catastrophic would be retired to bend both. Unless one bent for to bad luck, and smacked the other pushrod in the process. 

For the spark plug threads, this recent discussion thread is worth a look: 
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136481


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

oldackonoak said:


> Long story short I put in the new push rods and removed the head found nothing wrong. Valves were properly gaped. Put every thing back together and started first pull. Some how the spark plug got cross threaded so I tried all of the taps I have to chase the tread and the 12/ 20 was the closest buy was small. I have good tap and die sets do they make a special plug tap? I ran the plug down in there slow in and out. Got it in. That the story let me know about the Plug tap.
> Thanks for all of your help guy's!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> Ted


Google Helicoil for a solution for the stripped plug threads.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

*I'm thinking of getting rid of this machine*

I have had nothing but trouble with this machine Husqavarna 14527E. Auger belt is good for one big storm and they are hard to find for under $38. If any know of a connection that has them cheaper let me know. I look at the belt finder link that was listed in the forum some place. I have a 100' gravel drive and allot of grassy areas to do to get to barns and dogs. Think about going for a Ariens tracked machine at least they were smart enough to put 2 belts on the auger. Haven't looked at anything else I think I could get one on sale after the season for 2500 maybe. I like the controls all up front. I'm not sure what motor they are using doesn't matter. Almost all of them are made in China. I would like a machine that had a good auger that had a shaft from the gear case to the housing. If any one would like to school me as to what is out there for 2500 or less that is of good quality feel free. I would like to sell the 14527 but I would have to just about give away. I think I paid around 1500 and it works well as long as the auger belt is holding up. I guess I could just buy a bunch of belts and keep it. That is probably the cheaper option. The motor problem was a freak thing. I bought it in 2013 not 2010. And did no research on any snow blowers there was a big storm coming and the motor on my old Ariens through the push rod through the case. It live alone had happy life. I still have it if anyone wants to put a motor on it. Price FREE. OK LET ME HAVE IT ALL OPINIONS WELCOME!!! As well as PM's!
Ted


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Ted...this is free advice...so take it for what it's worth. In your position..I would sell the Husky.......I don't care for them or how they are built. I would look off season for a 924 series Ariens....bulletproof if maintained well and cheap as ****. I just bought a ST 824 ( from a flipper who went right through it! ) for $75. My own machine is a St 824 from 1981 or so that I replaced the blown engine in 15 years ago with a 99 dollar Harbor Freight engine.....strictly bolt on...almost. You are mechanical enough to keep these old girls running, so my advice would be to get two....no money out really and you have machines that will last your lifetime...and one is none and two is one....Grandad Cranman used to say that LOL....


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

one is none and two is one....Grandad Cranman used to say that LOL....[/QUOTE]
That is a good saying especially when it comes to the equipment they make these days. Thanks I will look into that model.


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

*Husqavarna 14527E*

The head was defective and the valve slides warped. Briggs sent me a new head with a part number that supersede the last one the head is heavier and the valves are larger so far the motor is still running but I didn't get to far because the handle bars broke at the bottom were they bolt to the machine. I ordered a new bottom bar. Tried to weld it but the weld wouldn't take then the welder broke down. I have never heard of handle bars breaking on any snow blower. I have an old MTD that I have used to go wear no snow blower should go. It doesn't through the snow very far but it will go any were. On a brighter side I found an excellent surgeon and he replaced my hip and I can walk again. I still have severe arthritis in my spine and other joints but I can deal with that. I want to get the word out about the Husqavarna 14527E it is a junk unit and from what I have seen the other blowers they make are not much better. Just a warning to any one looking to buy a blower go with and Ariens if you can't afford it go to Walmart and get a blower there I have an old MTD and it still goes strong it just doesn't throw the snow very far. I need to put some new rubber flaps on the(I can't think of the name second stage)That seemed to help with wet snow and and threw the dry snow further. The reason I found out it was the head I talked to a Service manager at an Ariens dealer and he was familiar with the head issue. Thanks to all of the people that helped with this problem I could not done this without your input!!! Have a Happy Blowing Season!!!
Ted


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