# Ariens 835 series deflector control, Parts?



## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

Anyone have some Ariens snowblower parts laying around??

I want to build a deflector control for the blower on my YT12. Its the 835 series 36" blower and though i have seen some with a deflector control cable mine doesn't have one.

The main parts seem to be a control cable, and a cable bracket on the lower half of the chute and a small cable end bracket on the deflector, and then a cable bracket and handle that go by the chute control to adjust it. 

I think i could fabricate those brackets but the control cable is what i haven't been able to find yet. The parts manual shows it as 69137 for the cable but doesn't mention length or any other details.

The other option i am thinking about is electrical, using a small linear actuator. But i don't like electric controls on the snowblower chutes, just something else to maintain and possibly die when you really need it.

Anyone have some parts stashed??


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Deflector*

I don't have any spare parts but here's a picture of one of mine, maybe for ideas:








You may be able to salvage one from another brand of blower and adapt it to yours. More than one I've looked at appear to have the same chute on them even though they're different brands.

Let us know how it turns out.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

That Craftsman chute is very similar to my Ariens...

I dug through my junk and the local junk yards, nothing come up for a cable setup.

I did however find a cheap 12v linear actuator that is both the right size and totally weatherized for exposed use, has seals and its grease packed. Checked the manufacturers model number and its rated for outdoor use, down to temps of -30, and the size should work nicely.

Just have to buy a few things to fit it to the chute and i will post an update. I really didn't want to go the power route, would rather have something less failure prone, but it should be pretty light duty for this actuator so i don't think it will cause much of an issue.

The plan is to get a couple 1/4" by three inch clevis pins, determine their location, and then clean and weld the pins to the chute and deflector, prep, prime, and paint the chute, and reinstall. The actuator will go on the side of the chute on protruding pins so that it can swivel as it pushes. Also so if i have a motor failure i can pop out the clips on the clevis pins and pull the actuator off and go back to manual control quickly.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

Here is a picture of the actuator.

It has a stop collar on it, but there is internal limit switches and a thermal overload breaker as well. They were made for another purpose and evidently the collar was put on to limit travel for their application. Take the collar off and they have about 3" of travel. 

I made two marks on this side of the chute and from all the way up to almost all the way down will be achievable with this distance. The deflector would go down a bit more, the front end of the deflector will lose about 1/4" of travel in the downward position but i can live with that, its not enough to worry about.

I have all the electrical stuff i need on hand, so it should be a pretty quick build once i have all the parts gathered up.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Chute*

Here's a picture of that machine including the adjustor for the top end of the chute:








Ironically I needed a similar cable a while back and it was not available through sears. I took the old one down the shop I get parts through, they had one on hand. No idea what it was designed for as they just hang all their cables in a common pile.
On this one the cable sheath is threaded with a nut on both ends. Loop on one end and a S shaped hook on the other. There are ways around both of those (ends are available but you have to put it together). The hardest things would be the actual chute and some type of lockable control handle.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

Pulled the chute off today, started by sanding down two spots clean to weld on the clevis pins that will hold the actuator. Then i welded em on and started cleaning up the inside of the chute. Took it apart, wire wheel until smooth, two coats of primer, two coats of paint, will let it finish curing overnight and see how it looks in the morning, might need one more coat inside was getting a little tired and weary by the time i got done, it was a long day on top of this.

The cable that turns the chute was getting well worn and frayed in one spot, stopped by the hardware store got some new cable to redo that. Its a case of the might as wells again... Fix one thing and end up fixing five!

Will post some pics after the paint is dry and its put back together. Actuator should be here Monday or Tuesday, then i will show some pics of it all together and operating.

Still no snow here!! So i guess i got time to keep tinkering.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

The chute, mounting pins for the actuator welded on, sanded, painted, drying in my basement with a space heater keeping them warm. Its only 16 degrees outside and the basement is cool as well. Can't count how many times i dried stuff like this in my basement... LOL


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

Linear Actuator all done!

The rotation cable was getting rough, some of the coating was falling off and it was rusted bad. Replaced with some stainless aircraft cable.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Chute controls*

Looks pretty good there. A little too fancy for me but I like to see new ideas regardless. Well done.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

Thanks!

Not much fancy about it... Just a motor and some wiring is about all i added. I do a lot of deflector movements with the places i move snow to avoid neighbors and limited space between houses, etc. So this will probably be the best mod i have done.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Limits?*

Is there a limiter or microswitch etc there so it won't try to push or pull too far? Just wondering if you aren't paying attention, could something get bent or broken. That's the only other concern I'd have. Looks real nice though.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

The motor is internally limited with its own microswitches all in a nice sealed up and weather tight package, they were made for outside use, and it's matched almost perfectly to the travel of the deflector, i tried to break it before putting it back on, it can't go too far in either direction but will pull just tight against the chute when putting it back up before the motor kicks out. Plus the original bolt is still there with the big wing nut which further acts as a travel stop, but the motor can't go any farther than it does. That's why i welded the pins on, i set the motor on the chute and ran it back and forth and positioned the pins to give the right amount of travel then welded them on.

Thanks!

I doubt i will ever motorize the chute rotation, i just wanted control of the deflector without having to leave the seat each time, and a motor was cheaper and easier than a control cable. 

Oh just to add... I put a Weatherpack connector on the motor leads at the front of the tractor hood, so if the motor died i just pull two clevis pins, unplug it, and its back to manual control.


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## underp2 (Feb 1, 2018)

I know this is an old thread, but I'm having a hard time finding much out there related to linear actuators for chute deflector control. I did recently start a thread for LED & DC linear actuator chute control. I was wondering if you used a battery to accomplish this? Or if you were able to do it with the AC generated by the engine? Just looking for ideas & trying to get this completed in the best way possible.


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## underp2 (Feb 1, 2018)

*A couple pictures...*



underp2 said:


> I know this is an old thread, but I'm having a hard time finding much out there related to linear actuators for chute deflector control. I did recently start a thread for LED & DC linear actuator chute control. I was wondering if you used a battery to accomplish this? Or if you were able to do it with the AC generated by the engine? Just looking for ideas & trying to get this completed in the best way possible.


The linear actuator is:
PL14-2BK


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