# 1132 Bent Impeller



## ablundon (Feb 3, 2014)

Hi all,

I've read a few other posts with similar topics but thought I would post my situation.

I have a 1132 (~5 years old). Last night while blowing some of the slushy, icy, slob deposited by the street plough, it started vibrating. I stopped and had a quick look (to see if shear pins were broke) but it looked fine. I continued. I think there was some loose gravel in amongst the snow as I could hear the typical scraping sound as gravel goes through the system. I live on a paved road with a paved driveway, but sometimes, bits of gravel make it into the mix. I also noticed that it didn't seem to be throwing as far as normal.

All of a sudden there was a huge bang and the blower stopped dead in its tracks. I pulled it back. Restarted and drove it back to my garage (with the augers off).

When I got to my garage I cleared all of the snow out of the inside (there were a few small rocks about 1 or 2 inches). I then noticed that one of the impeller blades was bent.

Questions:
1. I assume a rock bent the blade, why wouldn't the shear pin break?
2. I assume the reduction in throwing distance can be attributed to the bent blade.
3. Should I attempt to straighten the blade (with heat) or should I replace?
4. Is replacement a difficult job? I have some mechanical capabilities. It looks like it can be done through the front by simply removing a few bolts.

Thanks!


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

ablundon said:


> Questions:
> 1. I assume a rock bent the blade, why wouldn't the shear pin break?
> 2. I assume the reduction in throwing distance can be attributed to the bent blade.
> 3. Should I attempt to straighten the blade (with heat) or should I replace?
> 4. Is replacement a difficult job? I have some mechanical capabilities. It looks like it can be done through the front by simply removing a few bolts.


Any number of reasons the shear pin did not shear. If you remove the shear pin, will the impeller spin freely? If it's stuck fast or seized to the shaft, there's the problem. You are probably right about a bent impeller blade not providing the same performance as a straight one. I would for sure look to repair/re-bend the impeller, as a new part from Honda is $255 (list price p/n *72440-768-000*). In Honda service materials, the impeller is called the "blower." To get to it, the augers, shaft, and gear box need to come off first; here's page from the shop manual to get you started:


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## ablundon (Feb 3, 2014)

Excellent, thanks... I've been wondering if the shaft was seized to the "blower." I looked at the bill and it was 7 years ago I bought it and it's never been apart. When I do get it apart, I'll be sure to lube it up.

Thanks for the image... should make it pretty easy.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I think the bend back vs replace question would depend on how bad it is. I have seen youtube videos of people heating them up and bending them back. All I have ever used is a small propane torch so I have no experience with heating and bending metal. I wonder if the way it hit the rock has more to do with it than the size of the rock. A small rock at the outer edge might wedge in there and give it a twisting motion vs a large rock going straight on and making a dead stop. Perhaps while you are working on things you could look into the impeller kit modification. It closes up the gap between the impeller and housing which is suppose to help with rocks getting jammed in there, though that isn't the main reason people do it.


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## mkd (Dec 31, 2013)

robert if you measure the good impeller at specific locations and use it for reference maybe you can bend the bent one back to being close. also the shear pins are not suppose to be over torqued because it could prevent them from shearing at the specific tq. value they are suppose to shear at.


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## sr71 (Mar 25, 2013)

Had almost the same happen to my 1132 this weekend.....had the same big bang ....it stopped the blower / engine immediately. Sounded like I blew a rod. Anyway....another newspaper (in the plastic sleeve) ...somehow made it past the augers and got jammed half way up the shoot & impeller. Luck on my side this time - 

I 2nd mkd... bang the impeller back into shape....should work fine


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## ablundon (Feb 3, 2014)

Well... I got at it tonight. I removed the front auger, no trouble. Removed the gear box, no trouble. Then I removed the shear pin for the impeller ("blower"). The pin was a little difficult to get out as it was bent. I then tried to remove the impeller but it was seized to the shaft. A little heat and some muscle and it finally came off, only about 10 minutes of work. I guess that is why the pin didn't break....the shaft was seized.

I took the impeller and put a little heat on it and straightened the bent blade. I needed to hammer it a few times to get the shape, but it looks pretty good. Back on it goes (this time with some "Never Seize.")

I then thought it would be a good idea to remove the two auger blades and lube them up as well. The first one came off no trouble. The second one.... well.... after 2 hours of heat, and wrenching with a pipe wrench I have it loosened but still not off. I hope to get back at it tomorrow night when some of my spay lube has penetrated down the shaft.... 

It is a good thing I'm doing this now as if I had hit anything with that auger, given how everything was seized, I probably would have ripped the gear box apart!

Lesson learned.... disassemble every year and lube it up to prevent seizing....


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

ablundon said:


> Lesson learned.... disassemble every year and lube it up to prevent seizing....


Very good lesson, and good thing all it cost you was some time. You might consider some grease fittings in there. The Ariens have grease fittings and you just pull the shear pin, squirt some grease in and give them a spin. Difference is the Ariens mostly have a solid axle while the Honda just has a little stub. Also, the Ariens require complete removal of the front end where Honda makes it easy.


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## ablundon (Feb 3, 2014)

Another quick question, I noticed that while I had it apart the main shaft from the motor (the one the impeller slips on over) was a little wobbly. I assume that is normal in order to account for the slightly different angles of the impeller and gear box connections?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I think the front gearbox ties everything together and tightens it up. You could check on the bearing back there though.


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## ablundon (Feb 3, 2014)

A little more elbow grease last night and the shaft finally came free of the Auger. Reinstalled everything with anti seizing lubricant and gave it a test run. It seems to run fine but the test will be tonight when we are supposed to get 8-10" overnight.

Thanks for the help.

I attempted to make a video of the process for potentially putting to Youtube but with -10°C (14°F) the battery in my camera didn't last so I gave up....


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

ablundon said:


> I attempted to make a video of the process for potentially putting to Youtube but with -10°C (14°F) the battery in my camera didn't last so I gave up....


That is ok. Glad you have everything working again.

Did you have to sand down the shafts or was simply getting them apart and anti seizing them good enough?


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## ablundon (Feb 3, 2014)

I did clean up the shafts and sand the inside of the auger shaft.... that seemed to loosen things up a little.


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