# older drift breaker 536-918400



## crash*medic

Hi everyone, I am new here and came across this forum while researching this monstrosity I just acquired. I am trying to figure out what year it was made. It looks like a late 70's early 80's to me. Not sure if it runs, but I did get it for free and everything does move freely and the engine seems to have good compression. Hoping to get it running this week. If anyone has any info on these and especially a manual that would be great. 

John


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## td5771

great find, i am sure it will work with some clean points, plug and ........if the gas hasnt gone bad requiring a carb rebuild........some fresh gas it will be great. i believe hcbph is the resident expert on the older craftsmans


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## crash*medic

It appears to have been properly stored. There was no gas in it and the tank is very clean. Going to pick up gas after work tonight and try to start it tomorrow.


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## HCBPH

*Nice blower*

Crash
You dog, free and it's one of the Good Ones!! (obviously that's humor - great machine)
I'm not home right now to check the manuals, but that should be around a mid 70's to early 80's.
You'll likely need a carb kit (most everyone does). Yours is just a smaller brother of this one:








Or this one








Things to watch - The transmission is hung from an 'intermediate' shaft. The 2 shoulder bolts that mount it to the tractor unit can come loose over time - not a good thing. Insure they're tight.








The axel and auger bushings are plastic (darn bean counters). I have a thread on how to convert it to roller bearings, check under maint heading.








Personally I don't like how the one handle controls both the auger and drive. I came up with a way to split those 2 controls but parts have to be made.
The main control cable isn't available from Sears, but it is still available. The chute cable isn't (at least I haven't found one).
If a cable end is broken, you can buy a replacement end from McMaster Carr.
Unfortunately alot of people don't maintain them properly. I've seen a number where the auger rakes are stuck to the shaft. Takes effort to get them off.
If you need to pull the auger apart, leave the impeller portion bolted to the tractor unit unless you're 1) a glutton for punishment or 2) extremely good at documenting. It's easier to pull the tranny, unbolt the auger pulley and remove it then unbolt the front section of the auger housing from the impeller portion and pull it apart that way. The part of the idler controls for the auger and drive are bolted in there and can be a bit fidgety if you mess them up. This way you don't have to touch them








That's the one I split the controls on.
Don't mess with the stator in the engine (under the flywheel) for the light unless you're willing to go through potentially retiming the engine (applies to all Tecumseh engines).
Here's one of mine (one of around 12) I've rebuilt that started similar to yours (but with a 32" auger) that I swapped down to a 26"








All the comparable 536 prefix machines are pretty much interchangable in parts (whether red & white or black & gray), the 5 hp and below vs the 7 hp and above. Virtually everything you'd need is available somewhere and that machine you have is a beast.
Let me know if you need any info (and I do have a manual that's close enough with a parts list). Just be aware in typical Sears fashion, the same part may be listed under multiple part numbers, with some listed as discontinued/unavailable while the same part may be available under another number.
Most of the ones I've bought have not had a skidpan on them, I ended up having to make them from scratch.

Hope that helps.
Paul

PS - if you want to read the thread on rebuilding that gray one, here's the link: http://restorationmen.lefora.com/2011/12/16/evaluating-a-used-snowblower-purchase-and-proceedi/


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## crash*medic

Thanks for the info and the link to the write up. I just got it started and it runs quite well. Augers and everything are moving. I will probably do the carb right away since I have to do the carb on my Airens also. The only problem i have found is that it does not "drive". I will have take it apart and see what is up with the transmission when it isn't so flipping hot out. I was surprised at how quickly it started. Hopefully this will be a fairly easy fix. 

John


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## HCBPH

*Drive issues*

There's not alot that can go wrong with the drive. Most likely the belt or a chain (assuming it's not in neutral). Take a look and if you can't figure it out, post some picture and we'll see if we can give some suggestions.

PS I do have pdf's of owners manuals for a 536.918300 (7 hp 24") and a 536.882702 (10 hp 32" 3 stage). If you want either of them, PM me an email address. They both are helpful on figuring out parts and adjustments.


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## crash*medic

I did take a peak in the back of it and the chain is in place and when it is not running and in gear it does not roll, so I am not to sure what the problem is. Going to have to dismantle further to get some pics and better idea.


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## HCBPH

*Drive diagnostics*

John
Insure you don't have alot of gas in it and plan to put it into the maintenance position (Up and down vs horizontal). Remove the belt cover, remove both belts off the motor, you can leave them in the chassis for now. Put the transmission in gear and the machine into the maintenance position. I doubt you have a skidpan, if you do remove it. Try turning the pulley on the transmission by hand and the wheels should turn slowly. 
The pulley is on the input shaft on the transmission. There's a key and 2 set screws on it. Output shaft from the transmission has a chain that goes to a double sprocket on the intermediate shaft. The other sprocket has a chain that goes to the sprocket on the axel. The wheels are bolts onto the axel.
Can't get much simpler than that. the transmission is a sealed unit so no maintenance there, all you need to lube is the double sprocket and the chains.
On the top side there's an idler for each the drive and auger belts.

Paul


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## crash*medic

So, I just took off the back cover completely and found one of the belts was loose. Took off the front cover to see how hard it would be to change the belt and found the spring for the tensioner had come come off. Popped it back on and everything is tight again and tensions with the lever. The wheels did spin with the pulley being moved and that was the loose belt. It is bit late here to start it up to try it so it will have till wait till I am off shift on Tuesday but I am pretty sure it is going to work fine now. Thanks for all the input and help.


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## HCBPH

*Fix*



crash*medic said:


> So, I just took off the back cover completely and found one of the belts was loose. Took off the front cover to see how hard it would be to change the belt and found the spring for the tensioner had come come off. Popped it back on and everything is tight again and tensions with the lever. The wheels did spin with the pulley being moved and that was the loose belt. It is bit late here to start it up to try it so it will have till wait till I am off shift on Tuesday but I am pretty sure it is going to work fine now. Thanks for all the input and help.


Don't you just love a cheap fix! 
I didn't even think about the springs. If you need any in the future and you have a Fleet Farm in your area or a good hardware store. They're a fairly common item.

If you do have plastic bushings on the axel or auger shaft, check out that thread I mentioned on converting to flanged bearings. It makes a world of difference in the ability to roll it around and effort to move and blow snow. Cheap mod with alot of payback over the long run.


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## crash*medic

Thanks Paul. Tried her out this morning and everything works great! The spring kinda looks like a carburetor accelerator spring so if i need one I have plenty. Going to clean it up a bit and check the bushings and probably do the carb( unless someone makes me an offer I can't refuse). I don't think I will keep this one just because of its size ( a little overkill for my little driveway) , my Airens 2 stage is just about right and I am planning on adding a plow to my garden tractor this year.


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## HCBPH

*Spring*

That small spring is just a return spring, it would not keep the drive from working but I suspect I do know what's going on and it's a simple adjustment. I'm using a picture of a control that was removed from a similar machine. That tab on the far side of the picture is the top of the mechanism as it's mounted into the snowblower.
This is the mechanism you should have to engage the auger, plus the drive should always be engaged (as if looking from the right side of the machine and even with the controls for engaging the auger and drive. The cable would be on that pin with the cotter key)








The left lever is for the drive and the right is for the auger.
When you push the handle on the handlebars to engage the auger, if it moves that center section too far or the rollpin is too short or has been 'adjusted' where it is in relation to the controls, you could have that roll pin pushed too far forward and it no longer engages the control for the drive, only the auger. It's a simple adjustment though unless the roll pin has been altered or replaced with the wrong one.








The red piece shown is the mount for the auger control cable. Push the auger control to engage the auger position then look and see if the roll pin still is engaging the drive control lever plus the auger control lever. If it isn't, loosen the holddown on that red part, slide the whole cable back a little till the roll pin is engaging both controls then tighten it up. Now work your control to confirm that when the auger is supposed to be disengaged, that roll pin only engages the drive control arm and when both are to be engaged the roll pin engages both arms. That's all it takes.


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## crash*medic

I will have to look at that a little closer. The problem really seemed to be the idler tensioner pulley was not getting enough pressure on the belt ( belts need to be replaced, pretty worn ). I noticed 3 total springs on the levers, 1 each on the outer part of each and 1 large one on the inner part of the auger one. I will check out the roll pin tomorrow when I get home. 
thanks again for everythinig


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## HCBPH

*Springs*

It's that heavier spring that puts tension on the respective belt (one for the drive and one for the auger)








It's very visible in this picture. Starting with the control cable, that hooks up to the piece in the middle, that has something the size of a governor spring on it, that's function is purely a return spring for that part that the cable connects to. When you pull on the cable, that arcs upward and the roll pin should be in (at a minimum) the arm closest to the motor and pull that upward in an arc also also. There's a heavier spring (seen at the bottom) that in turn that pulls on the actual arm with the idler pulley on it that will press against the drive belt (or auger belt in the case of the front one).
If you have something the size of a governor spring there, that's the wrong spring. You need a spring with sufficient tension to actually pull that idler pulley arm up and tension the drive or auger belt. They're both the same and are standard hardware store items (at least at Ace).

By the way, the 2 larger springs in this photo are the correct ones for any 7 - 10 HP Murray built Craftsman of this type.


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## crash*medic

Yep, that is what it looks like and that was the spring that was off. It looks like the accelerator spring on my Edelbrock, but my whole set up on the car is custom. My springs do match the ones in the picture. The roll pin moves correctly when the lever(s) are in engaged so it seems the whole issue really was just the spring popped off. I am going to secure it a little better on the top side so it doesn't pop off again.


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## snowmad

*Driftbreaker 536-918400*

I have a question about how or difficulty for installing the 2 belts on this thrower ?? any help would be greatly appreciated .. I have no manual by the way. 

I just received a Drift Breaker snow thrower for free, it is in perfect shape was only used 3 times and then put away for storage by a professional, but they seem to have used the Muffler since it is missing, the ( 2 ) belts are missing and the shield over the belts. the man that owned this used it 3 times and then stuck his had down the shoot to get a chunk of ice out and it removed his fingers and he put if in storage.


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## HCBPH

*Belts*



snowmad said:


> I have a question about how or difficulty for installing the 2 belts on this thrower ?? any help would be greatly appreciated .. I have no manual by the way.
> 
> I just received a Drift Breaker snow thrower for free, it is in perfect shape was only used 3 times and then put away for storage by a professional, but they seem to have used the Muffler since it is missing, the ( 2 ) belts are missing and the shield over the belts. the man that owned this used it 3 times and then stuck his had down the shoot to get a chunk of ice out and it removed his fingers and he put if in storage.


Belts are easy to replace on these. First off, the drive and auger use the same belts so get 2.
First thing, remove the sparkplug wire at a minimum, to be safer remove the spark plug. Part you'll do with it horizontal and part in the service position with the machine vertical on the tip of the auger housing.
On the motor there 2 wire belt keepers. Loosen those 2 bolts and swing them out of the way








There may be a guard or comparable belt keepers on the bottom side too. If so loosen them up and move them out of the way too. I've seen them both on the bottom of the pulleys or on the top bolts that hold the auger housing to the tractor unit
















Put the drive belt on first. Put it on the engine pulley and work it down between the 2 pulleys and start it onto the drive pulley. Slowly turn over the engine and it will pull itself onto the pulley.
Do the auger belt in the reverse, put it onto the auger pulley then work it onto the engine pulley by turning it over by hand.
There's a brake on the auger pulley you may have to work by hand to get hte belt under it.
Once that's done, put the belt keepers back in the original positions so they've close but don't touch the belts and tighten the nuts.
Put your plug and wire back in and you're done.

For a belt cover, if yours is a 7 HP or bigger, watch for a parts machine 536-918xxx or 546-882xxx that's 7 hp or bigger and it should fit.

If your machine has the plastic bushings on the auger and drive axels, check out the thread I created on upgrading to flanged bearings. I've done that a few times and it really works well.

Sorry to take so long, didn't notice this till today.


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## snowmad

Thank You very Much , very helpful. but now being in Indianapolis.. can I get some snow lol. 

thanks again 
Terry






HCBPH said:


> Belts are easy to replace on these. First off, the drive and auger use the same belts so get 2.
> First thing, remove the sparkplug wire at a minimum, to be safer remove the spark plug. Part you'll do with it horizontal and part in the service position with the machine vertical on the tip of the auger housing.
> On the motor there 2 wire belt keepers. Loosen those 2 bolts and swing them out of the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There may be a guard or comparable belt keepers on the bottom side too. If so loosen them up and move them out of the way too. I've seen them both on the bottom of the pulleys or on the top bolts that hold the auger housing to the tractor unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Put the drive belt on first. Put it on the engine pulley and work it down between the 2 pulleys and start it onto the drive pulley. Slowly turn over the engine and it will pull itself onto the pulley.
> Do the auger belt in the reverse, put it onto the auger pulley then work it onto the engine pulley by turning it over by hand.
> There's a brake on the auger pulley you may have to work by hand to get hte belt under it.
> Once that's done, put the belt keepers back in the original positions so they've close but don't touch the belts and tighten the nuts.
> Put your plug and wire back in and you're done.
> 
> For a belt cover, if yours is a 7 HP or bigger, watch for a parts machine 536-918xxx or 546-882xxx that's 7 hp or bigger and it should fit.
> 
> If your machine has the plastic bushings on the auger and drive axels, check out the thread I created on upgrading to flanged bearings. I've done that a few times and it really works well.
> 
> Sorry to take so long, didn't notice this till today.


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## sscotsman

Nice find! 
There are Craftsman model number lists floating about the internet..I just googled for one and found this:

Sears Model Number Codes - Pro Tool Reviews Discussion Forums

Which says the 836 code translates to AMF/Noma..

Craftsman snowblowers, like many other brand names, were MUCH better in the past than they are today! probably 10 or more different manufacturers have made Craftsman snowblowers over the past 40 to 50 years..generally speaking, the newer they are, the worse they are..(I wouldnt buy a Craftsman made in the past 20 years)..but as HCBPH said, you got one of the good ones!  No one has extensively researched Craftsman snowblowers, so its hard to get a feel on the age, but I would guess 1980's..

Noma was later taken over by Murray, which was known for "lower-end" models..
(then Murray was absorbed into the current Briggs & Stratton family of brand names, Murray branded snowblowers are no longer being made) but this Craftsman is probably a "True Noma" from before the days of the takeovers, and thus is probably a much higher quality machine than more modern Murrays..(and probably unrelated to Murray machines, in terms of snowblower DNA)

Scot


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## HCBPH

*Misc*



sscotsman said:


> Nice find!
> There are Craftsman model number lists floating about the internet..I just googled for one and found this:
> 
> Sears Model Number Codes - Pro Tool Reviews Discussion Forums
> 
> Which says the 836 code translates to AMF/Noma..
> 
> Scot


Scot, you have a typo. It's 536 (don't you just hate those numeric key pads!). That's a Murray built model. If I had to guess on it's age, early to mid 70's. I think around late 70's to early 80's is when they went to the black and gray color and changed the model numbers from 536.918xxx to 536.882xxx. They're 99% identical under the covers so virtually all the parts interchange. In fact the Searsasaurus (my 10 HP keeper machine) is a 536.918xxx machine through the impeller housing. The auger housing, rakes and auger gearcase are off a 536.882xxx machine. Other than repainting there was zero mods required to mate the two together.


Here's the ones I know of that I think are the better ones to watch for. I've seen or owned them so it's pretty much first hand. I've also included some alternate part numbers that Sears does not list:

Murray built Craftsman snowblowers that have the Tecumseh Peerless Transmission
Some have metal auger and drive axel bushings and some have plastic (metal is preferred). Model number along with some general information on each the best I can remember.
Small Frame Snowblowers
536.918100 4 HP 20" Hard Rubber Wheels, 3 Speed Tranny
536.918200 5 HP 22" Hard Rubber Wheels, 4 Speed Tranny
536.918202 5 HP 22" Hard Rubber Wheels, 4 Speed Tranny, electric starter
536.882502 5 HP 22" Pneumatic Tires. 3 speed Tranny
536.918700 5 HP 22" Hard Rubber Wheels, 3 Speed Tranny
Large Frame Snowblowers
536.882600 7 HP 26" Pneumatic Wheels, 4 Speed Tranny
536.918300 7 HP 24" Hard rubber Wheels, 4 Speed Tranny
536.918502 7 HP 24" Hard rubber Wheels, 4 Speed Tranny
537.918800 7 HP 26" Pneumatic Tires, 4 Speed Tranny
536.918900 10 HP 32" 3 Stage, Pneumatic Tires, 5 Speed Tranny, Electric Starter
536.882700 10 HP 32" 3 Stage, Pneumatic Tires, 5 Speed Tranny, Electric Starter
Various Alternate parts
Replacement Control Cables (4 & 5 HP) - 584223MA for drive and auger
Replacement Control Cable (7 - 10 HP) - 49551MA for remote chute, can be adapted to use for drive/auger control cable
Replacement for 3/4" plastic bushing on axel - 3/4" flange bearing
Replacement for 1" plastic bushing on auger, 1" flange bearing
Scraper bars: make from 1 1/2" flat steel and 3/8" round stock welded

Still looking for a suitable auger replacement alternative for small frame models with the plastic auger bushings. Ironically if you have the metal auger bushings with the clamshells, you can get new metal bushings but you can't buy the clamshells to use them on a machine that had plastic bushings initially. That's the problem on the small frame blowers, there's not enough room to modify them to use bearings from what I've tried so far but it's still a work in progress.


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## sscotsman

HCBPH said:


> Scot, you have a typo. It's 536 (don't you just hate those numeric key pads!). That's a Murray built model.


"doh! thanks, good catch!
yes, I incorrectly typed 836, but I was still correctly looking at number 536 on the Craftsman chart, so I still had the Noma part correct..

Are you sure its a Murray? (it could be, I really dont know) but I ask because that Craftsman list does specifically say:

536 amf 
536 noma 
536 western tool & stamping 

And it lists Murray as:

502 murray 
502 murray ohio 

So since the snowblower in question is clearly number 536, I would assume it is a "Pre-Murray Noma"..and not an actual Murray.

When did Murray buy Noma? dont know..lets find out! 
(Scot googles for a few minutes...)

Murray bought Noma in 1993:


> Murray has a history of lawn and garden equipment. In June 1988, Murray was acquired by Tomkins plc of Great Britain. In 1993, the new company purchased the Noma brand of lawn and garden equipment.


Murray (bicycles) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

So unless this snowblower is newer than 1993, which is almost certaintly isnt, its a "True Noma", and not a Murray..

Scot


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## Simplicity Solid 22

Since your label does not have a Serial number I am guessing code # relates to DOM #.

Guessitimate:September 13, 1979????


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## HCBPH

*Murray blowers*

I'm not sure where all the numbering lines up. Especially when Murray had bought AYP, Roper, Noma and god only knows who else over the years.
I think that Noma was bought after this one was built (doh - 1993). I have an older Craftsman labeled blower with a Larson engine (before Tecumseh bought them) that looks OEM and that I'm relative sure was designed by Roper. Then there's things like some cross-over looking parts where something that was on one ended up with small mods being put on a later machine.

I think the Roper ones had something like 536-90xxx model numbers, pre Murray purchase.
The 536.918400 I'd say I'm about 95% sure was built under the Murray label but incorporates some AYP designs in it.

Of course with the various purchases etc, it's all a moving target anyway.


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## sscotsman

Sears has a few parts diagrams here:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/1507000?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=536918400

Not super-useful, but might at least provide some specific part numbers, if you ever need them...im trying to find an actual owners manual on-line, since they often are dated..but no luck.

Scot


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## HCBPH

*Sears Info*

Main page for Sears parts: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Just plug in a model or part number

I have the following manuals in pdf format from various people and/or sites if anyone needs one:
143.697032
536.90515
536.881800
536.882792
536.884800
536.885020
536.885410
536.886140
536.886190
536.886261
536.886440
536.886531
536.887990
536.888400
536.889250
536.909800
536.918300
C950.52930


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## gravydude

There's another longer spring (about 8") that maybe located below the crank pulley? Do you know exactly where this would go?


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## HCBPH

*Spring*



gravydude said:


> There's another longer spring (about 8") that maybe located below the crank pulley? Do you know exactly where this would go?


There's a spring that hooks onto the auger and drive control mechanisms that pull it away from the belts on some machines (not the same on every one of them)
Here's one I put a double spring on due to some mods I made to the machine

See if that's what you're looking for. If not, get some shots of the underside along with the spring.


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## gravydude

Hmm, don't really know what I'm looking at. 

On another note. When I press down the engage lever on the handle bar, the L shaped bracket that the cable is connected to keeps bending down. Almost like it's pulling too hard causing it to fold over. 

I greased the cable and that seems to be fine. Maybe to much tension on the auger assembly? 

Could a lack of a spring or to small of a belt cause this problem?


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## HCBPH

*Need pictures*

Need to see some pictures of your issue. Sorry but the description doesn't nail it down.


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## Kiss4aFrog

PS - if you want to read the thread on rebuilding that gray one, here's the link: http://restorationmen.lefora.com/2011/12/16/evaluating-a-used-snowblower-purchase-and-proceedi/[/QUOTE]


Dear Paul, tried the link and it's dead. Do you have an update ??


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## HCBPH

*Site*



Kiss4aFrog said:


> PS - if you want to read the thread on rebuilding that gray one, here's the link: http://restorationmen.lefora.com/2011/12/16/evaluating-a-used-snowblower-purchase-and-proceedi/



Dear Paul, tried the link and it's dead. Do you have an update ??[/QUOTE]

I don't know what's going on with Cody's site, there are a number of issues that's been going on lately. Start at the root and you can work down from there: Restorationmen Forum Forums

Sorry, best I can do for now.

Paul


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## Closetcanibal

HCBPH said:


> Crash
> You dog, free and it's one of the Good Ones!! (obviously that's humor - great machine)
> I'm not home right now to check the manuals, but that should be around a mid 70's to early 80's.
> You'll likely need a carb kit (most everyone does). Yours is just a smaller brother of this one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things to watch - The transmission is hung from an 'intermediate' shaft. The 2 shoulder bolts that mount it to the tractor unit can come loose over time - not a good thing. Insure they're tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The axel and auger bushings are plastic (darn bean counters). I have a thread on how to convert it to roller bearings, check under maint heading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I don't like how the one handle controls both the auger and drive. I came up with a way to split those 2 controls but parts have to be made.
> The main control cable isn't available from Sears, but it is still available. The chute cable isn't (at least I haven't found one).
> If a cable end is broken, you can buy a replacement end from McMaster Carr.
> Unfortunately alot of people don't maintain them properly. I've seen a number where the auger rakes are stuck to the shaft. Takes effort to get them off.
> If you need to pull the auger apart, leave the impeller portion bolted to the tractor unit unless you're 1) a glutton for punishment or 2) extremely good at documenting. It's easier to pull the tranny, unbolt the auger pulley and remove it then unbolt the front section of the auger housing from the impeller portion and pull it apart that way. The part of the idler controls for the auger and drive are bolted in there and can be a bit fidgety if you mess them up. This way you don't have to touch them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the one I split the controls on.
> Don't mess with the stator in the engine (under the flywheel) for the light unless you're willing to go through potentially retiming the engine (applies to all Tecumseh engines).
> Here's one of mine (one of around 12) I've rebuilt that started similar to yours (but with a 32" auger) that I swapped down to a 26"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the comparable 536 prefix machines are pretty much interchangable in parts (whether red & white or black & gray), the 5 hp and below vs the 7 hp and above. Virtually everything you'd need is available somewhere and that machine you have is a beast.
> Let me know if you need any info (and I do have a manual that's close enough with a parts list). Just be aware in typical Sears fashion, the same part may be listed under multiple part numbers, with some listed as discontinued/unavailable while the same part may be available under another number.
> Most of the ones I've bought have not had a skidpan on them, I ended up having to make them from scratch.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> Paul
> 
> PS - if you want to read the thread on rebuilding that gray one, here's the link: http://restorationmen.lefora.com/2011/12/16/evaluating-a-used-snowblower-purchase-and-proceedi/


I have a dynamark 53621700. Basically the same except it has the breaker bar. I cannot for the life of me find part #28505. It's the pawl spring for the axle hubs.


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## greatwhitebuffalo

I'm doing some research on these AMF machines, and saw the question about year built. The best way to date a machine is look at the engine serial code on a Tecumseh, the first digit is the model year. Most of the times these still have the original engines on them.


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## DakotaMatt

Needing Help:

So I felt I took a risk in buying an older beast of a snow blower at lawnmower repair shop. We'll it's proving true, and I'm wondering if I can get some help out there.

I purchased a Craftsman 536 918400, which was guaranteed a lot more life from my salesman.

I took was stoked when it fired up in high elevation cold temps last week. I drove it out of my shed and it tipped to the left. I just thought it was the slope I was on, but then noticed my left tire was flat and came of the wheel well. I put it in reverse and muscled it back in the shed when I noticed a broken chain laying in on the ground.

Up to this point I have only been able to crack open the back end and notice one intact chain on the left side where I had the flat.

I know enough to know I don't have the skills of most of the posters on here, but thought I might get some help in replacing the chain.

I got the tire back on and replaced the link on the broken chain, but don't know how to proceed. I'm afraid I have the blower crack open now and I'll never be able to get it back together, let alone tossing snow.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks


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## Kiss4aFrog

Dakota Matt, welcome to the forum. The best help you can get is to post a thread of your own instead of hijacking this one four pages in.
It's in your own best interest to start a thread about your own problems with your machine. When you post, a photo or two of the machine would be good too.


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## DakotaMatt

Suggesting I "hijacked" your thread is less than welcoming. If I understood forums, or threads, or my snowblower for that matter, I wouldn't look for the support from a community that has a knowledge and skill set beyond mine. I didn't know threads held such a territorial mentality. 

I did start my own thread, however recognizing the snowblower mentioned in yours I thought it made sense to join it and reach out. Clearly it only made sense to me.

If it was easy to capture images of my blower at a remote shack of a cabin covered in feet of snow I would, but for someone knowledgable with photos of the same blower posted it wouldn't add anything. 

With that said, I take it all back. I take back my symbolic hand reaching out for help. I take back my first impression of a supportive forum. And I'll spend the next 48 hours trying to figure out how to delete the contaminating post that marred your thread.


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## misterfixit

*craftsman 536.918400 restoration*

Hi folks, I just joined and am happy to see a discussion about a craftsman 536.918400. I have one which I am restoring and have learned a lot reading the posts from crash*medic and HCBPH. It has a belly pan and when I removed it I found years of mouse nesting material. see picture

Is this still an active discussion? I was wondering what kind of lube is used in the drive gear transmission? Also looking for part numbers for both the auger belt and the drive belt. Anyone out there?


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## Kiss4aFrog

DakotaMatt said:


> With that said, I take it all back. I take back my symbolic hand reaching out for help. I take back my first impression of a supportive forum. And I'll spend the next 48 hours trying to figure out how to delete the contaminating post that marred your thread.


Not a problem, it isn't my thread. I just tried to say hi and you were hijacking the thread for your problem.
You will have better luck and likely get more help if you start your own thread with your problems rather than jumping in on someone elses four pages in.

I'm sorry if you're mad but I really was trying to help and it is good advise.


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## Kiss4aFrog

misterfixit said:


> Is this still an active discussion? I was wondering what kind of lube is used in the drive gear transmission? Also looking for part numbers for both the auger belt and the drive belt. Anyone out there?


Yup it's still active and welcome.
I'll try my best not to make you mad too.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I'm not sure which is which from the diagram on the Sears site.

DRIVE ASSEMBLY Diagram & Parts List for Model 536918400 Craftsman-Parts All-Products-Parts | SearsPartsDirect

#53 in the diagram, P/N 49570MA 
#46 in the diagram, P/N 49581MA


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## greatwhitebuffalo

misterfixit said:


> Hi folks, I just joined and am happy to see a discussion about a craftsman 536.918400. I have one which I am restoring and have learned a lot reading the posts from crash*medic and HCBPH. It has a belly pan and when I removed it I found years of mouse nesting material. see picture
> 
> Is this still an active discussion? I was wondering what kind of lube is used in the drive gear transmission? Also looking for part numbers for both the auger belt and the drive belt. Anyone out there?



they are such a slow moving machine overall with low stress in the gearbox, you can use the lightest weight gear oil 75-90 or 80-90 gear oil. in a pinch you can also just run straight 30 weight or even 20-50. these machines are crawling along at 3mph so there's not much stress there.


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## markdmz

I had to join because I bought a 536.882600 last night and I am thoroughly impressed with the build quality of this little monster. As others have already mentioned, it's far better than the flimsy newer ones. Although, the lack of parts availability (at least readily available) is a little concerning.

Other than the bearing mentioned, is there anything else that I should be aware of as a weak point on this machine?

Also as previously mentioned, the fact that the drive and impeller are under the same control is a little tough to get use to but that's fairly easy to work with.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to the forum markdmz


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## toroused

Wow, what a sad state of affairs that reply was. I've owned a lot of old Craftsman snowblowers through the years, and I was interested what DakotaMatt had to add to this Craftsman discussion - however old this thread is. Especially regard to the chains - it's a common problem with the old BobCats as well. 

This is a public forum, not a pulpit lecture hall.


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## sc6lou

How did you separate the controls,, mine is older no transmission just gears. 
Thanks


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## HCBPH

sc6lou said:


> How did you separate the controls,, mine is older no transmission just gears.
> Thanks



If you mean splitting the controls between the auger and drive from a single handle to two, not too difficult to do but there's parts you have to both make and buy. Get a picture of your controls and how it works, if it's similar to what I have done I think I have it in pdf format at home. PM me a email addr and I can forward it along, at a minimum some pictures.


Paul


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## jasongase

Hello,

Any chance I could get one of your manuals from you? [email protected].

I have a sears craftsman model 536.884500 code 6281 snowblower. I know you dont have this one listed, but could i get the manual for the closest one?


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## HCBPH

Is that 536.884500 a gray and black 5HP 22" unit with the Tecumseh transmission in it? If so I think I have a manual for an older model that will do you. They used to be red and white then went to black and gray. Even gave them different model numbers but far as I tell they're the same units. Parts interchange for the most part.


Best to send me a pm, I don't always go back through every thread.


Paul


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## Stanton

https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.ne...=95ea8b323704332ed55040c631b99c14&oe=5C600764


Still some old Drift breakers out there. This is in Bismarck ND $400 seems a bit much for this collector.


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