# carburetor removal Toro 724



## Fuzzyp (Dec 7, 2015)

Toro 724 38050 older,Serial# 0020744,Tecumseh engine H70-1300176E.

Purchased not running,been sitting a lot.Outside looks great.
Cleaned the carb on machine,started it up and it definitely misses when running.First notch of choke helps...I really don't see any easy way to take off carb for a good cleaning..Couple of 7/16 nuts on studs on each side but the studs turn with the nuts.See a couple of large Phillip head screw on each side but unable to get to both of them.Was going to remove muffler and see what I could find.One bolt is frozen on muffler...so thought I would ask before I start just taking things off... Appreciate any thoughts.
Fuzz


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

On a lot of the Tecumseh's you have to remove the inake along with the carb and then you can take off the carb. Just pay attention to which holes the governor and throttle links are in. Be sure to run a wire through all the little passages in the carb and you may really need a kit with new welch plugs if it's crapped up inside and rusted...... a new chinese carb is only about $15 delivered on ebay however. Keep that in mind....


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Fuzzyp said:


> Toro 724 38050 older,Serial# 0020744,Tecumseh engine H70-1300176E.
> 
> Purchased not running,been sitting a lot.Outside looks great.
> Cleaned the carb on machine,started it up and it definitely misses when running.First notch of choke helps...I really don't see any easy way to take off carb for a good cleaning..Couple of 7/16 nuts on studs on each side but the studs turn with the nuts.See a couple of large Phillip head screw on each side but unable to get to both of them.Was going to remove muffler and see what I could find.One bolt is frozen on muffler...so thought I would ask before I start just taking things off... Appreciate any thoughts.
> Fuzz


I just dealt with this myself on a H70 engine that likely sat for years. the 7/16 nuts would spin with the studs and one of the philips head screws was seized. i was able to loosen the other philips screw to the point that the "spacer" between the carb and the engine where the 2 philips screws are nested was sitting askew and i was able to expose the threads of that philips screw. I then took a hacksaw and cut that screw off. After i cut that screw off, I took a pry bar and wedged it between the spacer and the engine.

The spacer broke in pieces, after which I was able to remove the spacer+carb.

Once the carb was out of the way, i was able to heat up the other philips screw (which was really really really seized) with a torch and SLOWLY remove it from the block.


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## Fuzzyp (Dec 7, 2015)

Thanks guys,guess I will keep fiddling with it.
db130,if I break that spacer as you did,where do I get another,I don't have a clue.Thanks


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Tecumseh part number #34712. take a look at current ebay listings here:

tecumseh 34712 | eBay


I had a couple of spare carbs sitting around with that spacer intact already, so I was OK about breaking the spacer. After all, you're COMPLETELY dead in the water unless you get the carb off, right?


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

The large Philips head screws that hold the intake horn to the engine are the ones to remove first. Spray a penetrating oil on the screws first and tap on the end of the screw driver with a hammer several times to break the bond. Then a large Philips screwdriver with both hands to break them loose. Once removed, the carb/horn assembly can be disconnected from the rigid link to the throttle and the fuel line to the carb. When free of the engine, the horn can easily be removed from the carb for cleaning or replacement. Good luck! MH


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