# 1974 Toro 524, new owner



## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

I recently purchased a Toro 524 (S/N 31624 404980). It seems to be in decent shape for its age, but there are a few things I have questions about.

1. The previous owner ran it with no auger skids, so the auger was scrapping his driveway and is worn down at 1/4". I am planning to buy some new skids, but I am concerned that with the new skids and the worn auger, that the auger will be raised too high off the ground.

2. The fins of the left and right auger are not aligned with each other, i.e. the left auger seems to be rotated about 20 degrees further clockwise that the right auger. Is this normal? Should take the augers off and align them?

3. The auger and impeller rotate constantly when the engine is running, even when the engagement handle is not held down. Maybe a short in the wire?

Despite these flaws, I still feel that it was a good buy for $80, hopefully I don't prove myself wrong.


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## stromr (Jul 20, 2016)

*does this help?*

here's a couple of drawings that might help you. the drive for the auger and impeller is mechanical not electric, you probably have to start with adjusting the idler pulley and or the the handle and rod.
your 1974 toro 524 is model# 31624 and your serial number 404980

click on the pictures for a large view


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> I recently purchased a Toro 524 (S/N 31624 404980). It seems to be in decent shape for its age, but there are a few things I have questions about.
> 
> 1. The previous owner ran it with no auger skids, so the auger was scrapping his driveway and is worn down at 1/4". I am planning to buy some new skids, but I am concerned that with the new skids and the worn auger, that the auger will be raised too high off the ground.
> 
> ...


The run down augers will be fine. as for the second question at hand post some pics of this problem that is presenting itself on to us. you are going to have adjust that auger tension pulley in order for it to quit doing that. *ONLY IF BROTHER GRUNT was here to post that stuff that he does so well. I will have to light up the BAT SIGNAL to get him here.mg::emoticon-south-park*


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Thank you both for the information.

This is a picture of the augers. I was expecting the auger blades to be aligned in the middle (where the transfer case is). 










I seems like the auger/impeller belt is fairly loose, maybe not loose enough? I don't see anywhere to adjust the tension on the auger belt, maybe it is the wrong size? Also, my idler pulley does not look like the one in the parts manual.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Not very familiar with older Toro 2 stagers, but they're all pretty much the same. If you look up the auger belt # and google it, cross reference and stuff until you find a dimension and see if PO put the correct size on there. There should be some adjustment in the rod from the lever at the dash to the machine. PO may have had an old belt they adjusted everything to the max to get engagement and then replaced the belt, but left all the adjustments for a lossey goosey belt.
Auger rake alignment is fine, no difference where they are as long as you have them as you do .....//////&\\\\\\\.
On the auger still spinning (if you find the belt is correct), I don't see a brake in any of the online schematics. If you look in there do you see a pad that rests against the impeller pulley, may be worn or missing a spring? If not, look around where I put the arrow and see if there is a spring either on that pivot rod the idler is on (like wrapped around the rod), or if the idler bracket has a spring that connects it to the frame somewhere. Cycle the auger engagement lever at the dash while watching the idler bracket pivot in and hopefully out of engagement. You'd want to check for some sort of pressure away from the belt when you release the auger engagement. If a spring is missing or lost an anchor point it won't pull the idler bracket away from the belt and just the light friction will continue to run the augers, but likely wouldn't throw snow. Sometimes cleaning up the rust on both the engine sheave and impeller pulley will ease up some belt drag. Also check to see if the idler pulley itself has a slot for adjustment on the bracket(although it does not look like it). PO may have it adjusted fully inboard toward the belt when it's not needed.
ANother thing I forgot to mention is check the bucket to frame bolts/alignment. Again, don't know how Toro has this coupled, but on Ariens and older JD's the bucket pivots at the bottom. If the top mounting bolts are loose, or one side is missing, the bucket will naturally gravitate away from the frame and put more pressure on the impeller/auger belt. You could loosen the bolts on each side and make sure the bucket to the frame is is snug together and then retighten the mounts just eliminate that first.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Thank you so much for the advice. I'm hoping to have time this weekend to work on it more. I'll let you know what I figure out.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Had another thought from looking at the pictures. Make sure that auger engagement idler spins freely (they "should" free wheel by hand spinning pretty easy when away from the belt). It's very red Maybe it's lost it's bearing and you'll find a super shiny spot on the inboard side where it's just sitting? Wish you good luck with her:welcome: Love seeing the old girls getting some care and maintenance, no matter the brand. I'm running an orange '79 and hopefully adding a '74 this weekend, but I like most all the old brands. None of the new stuff has the solid feel these old girls provide, IMO.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

You know that shaft that the auger pulley rides on may be worn to the bone. I would check to see if there is a lot of slop in there. then get some new belts for it.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

no the augers are fine just way they are. the old TORO'S even when the lever is disengaged the augers still turn some from the belt riding on the pulley.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

The idler pulley is in good shape and rotates freely. The PO had the wrong size belt, 39" vs 40". That might not make a big difference, but we'll see when the correct belt arrives next week.

I'm really excited to get this old beauty fixed up! I love the solid build quality of these old machines. Thanks for the help and advice.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Howdy creeve4
Welcome from another guy in Utah.
It looks like you may be missing some belt guides.
I dont have a good connection at the moment or I would look for an example photo. It's a quarter inch thick rod bent into a shape that keeps the belt squeezed into a shape that holds it off the pulley. Not a good explanation perhaps and I wish i could load a photo.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Are you referring to #14 in the first image below?

The strange thing is that the idler pulley is shown in two different configurations for the snowblower model, both pulleys have the same P/N: Toro 3-4244 (PULLEY-IDLER). My snowblower pulley is configured like the second image.

#21 here:









#7 here:


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

That first image is the idler for the drive belt, second would be the auger engagement, but both same diameter/part # is common, just different brackets they run on. dbert makes a good point, if that belt keeper isn't there or misaligned, it can cause the belt to default the slop to one side of thepto sheave and cause a slack friction on the other side with the idler. The keeper should kind of stand the slack up to the top and kind of keep it "pinched" up and away from the engine sheave (some mfg use the belt cover to do this). One inch short will cause your issues. You can cheat and use non stock dimensions if you have an adjustable idler, but short will cause a slack friction like you are experiencing. Especially if you combine older sheaves and pulleys with some rust. I take all the pulleys and the sheaves off on any blower I'm redoing and wire wheel them shiny. I then paint them with Rustoleum rust reformer, or something similar that is thin. POR does not work, it's too thick IMO for pulley channels. I've cheated on Craftsman/Cub/Poulan/MTD/Troy's that have "proprietary" belts sized like 34 1/4", or something similar. A complete inch without an adjustable idler is just like cutting a 1/2" out of each side of the belt and sewing them back together:wavetowel2:


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Also, I see now that that Toro does not mount the bucket to tractor like Ariens or JD I mentioned before to check. Looks like they mount on the inside of the belt area with studs coming from the bucket area, rather than bolts that keep a hinge up at the sides so disregard my previous insightful comment:facepalm_zpsdj194qh I said I didn't know much about older Toro's and I've actually proved it:icon-hgtg:


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

So with the correct belt, the auger does not spin then disengaged, but I have discovered that the belt retainer, #14 in the image below (Toro 17-5530), is missing. This is a discontinued part. Does anyone know where I could get a drawing/dimensions for this part so that I can make it myself?


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I would guess that there are many that would "work". You could even flip them around and use different bolt locations. You just need to get it close to where the original one was relative to the pulley.
Example
one on ebay for a different machne


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

If you don't want to wait to order you can make them out of 1/4" rod from the hardware store pretty easy.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Thanks guys. I ended up getting a similar one off eBay.


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## garthg (Aug 3, 2016)

I've found ebay to be a pretty good source of parts for the Tecumseh motor and blower.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

One of the tires on my snowblower will not stay inflated. The tire P/N is Toro 99-3240, which includes a tube. I suspect that my tires do not have tubes. Is there any easy way to tell if I have tubes in the tires? If I don't have tubes, any idea what size tube I would need? I figure if the tires are tubeless, I'll just add a tube.


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## jeepguy03 (Sep 11, 2014)

I believe the size of the tire for a 524 is 13x4.00-6. Double check the side of your tire to make sure, it should be listed there. They sell that size tube at Tractor Supply and probably hardware stores. You want the size of the tube to be the same as the tire.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

I would like to try a slightly smaller pulley for the impeller, but I have no idea where I can buy a pulley nor what the specs on the current pulley are. The stock impeller pulley is Toro 20-1310. Any ideas?

I am doing this to increase the impeller speed and thus increase throw distance.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

I'm wanting to replace the engine mounts (Toro 20-3130, #10 in the attached image) on this blower as the current (probably original) mounts have become swollen and quite soft. As is the case with many parts on these old machines, the OEM engine mounts are discontinued and unavailable everywhere Google can find. McMaster Carr sells a variety of Vibration-Damping Sandwich mounts. 

Does anyone know what the specs are on the original engine mounts - specifically the type and durometer of the material?

Side note: maybe I just remove these mounts and mount the engine directly to the blower, it seems that this was done with newer generations? I would only be worried about excess vibration. Thoughts?


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## tdipaul (Jul 11, 2015)

jeepguy03 said:


> I believe the size of the tire for a 524 is 13x4.00-6. Double check the side of your tire to make sure, it should be listed there. They sell that size tube at Tractor Supply and probably hardware stores. You want the size of the tube to be the same as the tire.


40 year old tires do not come off easy



There are 13x4-6 replacements available (~$50/pair) JIC


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> I'm wanting to replace the engine mounts (Toro 20-3130, #10 in the attached image) on this blower as the current (probably original) mounts have become swollen and quite soft. As is the case with many parts on these old machines, the OEM engine mounts are discontinued and unavailable everywhere Google can find. McMaster Carr sells a variety of Vibration-Damping Sandwich mounts.
> 
> Does anyone know what the specs are on the original engine mounts - specifically the type and durometer of the material?
> 
> Side note: maybe I just remove these mounts and mount the engine directly to the blower, it seems that this was done with newer generations? I would only be worried about excess vibration. Thoughts?


*There are no fancy rubber mounts on those. the bolt/stud goes under the tractor frame through the engine to the nut which gets snugged down on the engine block.*


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

creeve4 said:


> I'm wanting to replace the engine mounts (Toro 20-3130, #10 in the attached image) on this blower as the current (probably original) mounts have become swollen and quite soft. As is the case with many parts on these old machines, the OEM engine mounts are discontinued and unavailable everywhere Google can find. McMaster Carr sells a variety of Vibration-Damping Sandwich mounts.
> 
> Does anyone know what the specs are on the original engine mounts - specifically the type and durometer of the material?
> 
> Side note: maybe I just remove these mounts and mount the engine directly to the blower, it seems that this was done with newer generations? I would only be worried about excess vibration. Thoughts?


match the sizes length and thread, and you should be fine to go. many old machines used them to help dampen vibration to the handles or operator later they stopped due to them breaking in half. my 1978 cub cadet 1250 tractor is one that has them, 
as to leaving them off. yes you could use metal spacers and solid bolt the motor to the tractor unit . keeping the correct height would help keep the belt sizes the same
if you go solid and have a tractor supply store near by they have solid metal bushings in the hardware section allowing you to see first hand and match


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Thanks for the info on the tires and engine mounts. I decided to stick with my current tires for now and see how they do this season - a little tire slime fixed the leak.

As for the engine mounts, I bought some neoprene (better resistance to oil than natural rubber) sandwich mounts from McMaster and will see how they perform. The current mounts are so swollen with oil and soft that the engine tilts forward when I engage the auger resulting in the drive belt getting loose.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

good luck man, thats a odd toro using them nothing wrong with universal when they fit, but if mine i would use solid metal spacers and bolts deal with a little vibration


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