# Chute Rotation Switch Connection



## Rambodog (Dec 30, 2017)

Hi new guy here. I am having an issue with my Craftsman Snowblower Model # 536.886180 Specifically the chute rotation switch Part # 1752240YP https://www.searspartsdirect.com/pa...=partSearch&q=1752240YP#importantDetailsBlock. It makes contact in both directions when bench tested via continuity test. Once switch is installed the chute will only turn in one direction or no direction at all. Anyone have this issue? I suspect it to be a contact issue at the connector directly at the switch. If I move connector it seems to work sometimes. I cleaned the connector with a good douse of 91% Isopropyl alcohol and will fill with dielectric grease tomorrow and give it another go. I can't find any other connections as most of the wire path is inside wire loom material. One ground was visible and looks clean and secure. No rust. I really miss manual turn handles for the chute right about now.


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## Rambodog (Dec 30, 2017)

Anyone? I am in Western NY and really gotta move some snow. No luck with cleaning the connection. I find no other visible connections to check. I would hate to order a new harness for nothing. Thanks.


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

give it power and test it under load like a 12volt car light bulbs.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Looks like a double pole double throw switch. 

Power and ground coming in the middle then power and ground leaving in Opposite directions on either side. 

Most motors change direction by switching power and ground to operate in forward and reverse. Simply use a test light to check for power coming out of both sides of the switch based on hitting that direction. 

If you have it on one side and not the other, the switch is bad. From what I gather, it’s a very commmon problem.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

You can test it at the plug for the chute motor. Put a meter on it, and have someone push the button. You should get 12v in one direction and -12v in the other. 

Another way, is just put a test light at the connector, switch side of course, see if it lights in both directions. Test lights don't care about polarity, it will just light. If the test light even lights in either direction, the switch is good.


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## Rambodog (Dec 30, 2017)

Thanks a lot for the replies. I really appreciate some fresh thought on this. I will try the recommendations and will update. Thanks again.


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## Rambodog (Dec 30, 2017)

Okay, I tried something simple first. I ran the thing and found the chute would only turn one direction. Same issue so I just flipped the switch around and the chute would go the other way. Flip it and it would go the opposite way. It's the switch no doubt. I am ordering one from Sears Direct unless someone knows other options. I didn't find it anywhere, but Sears online. It looks to be an updated part now. Maybe it's better? I am gonna buy more than one just to avoid being down again like this. Thanks for the input. I will still update to close this thread when I get part installed and have things working again.


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

my guess water got into switch and corrosion killed it, if can be taken apart u could clean corrosion off


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## Rambodog (Dec 30, 2017)

Thanks vinnycom, I did just that and found there to be zero corrosion at all. After every use I pour hot water over the machine by the bucket full to rinse it of salt mostly. It evaporates fast in the cold and seems to work well in keeping it clean and rust free. I avoid the motor itself till it cools a bit and I do it then. It lives in a heated garage so things dry out fast with a wood burning stove running. Anyways, the contacts in the switch were just pitted from normal use. The switch uses real soft points so it will happen again, but there is enough meat to clean it several times safely. I sanded the points and used a flat head screwdriver to get at the tighter points in the bottom of switch. All other parts come out and were easier to sand the pits out. I put some CRC Dielectric grease in the mechanical area of the switch and reinstalled. Works like a charm now. I am still going to buy another switch or 2 even cause I see this becoming a maintenance item and the points will eventually wear too low sanding them. Thanks to all for your input. I am an avid forum member on Silveradosierra.com and have learned a ton there about my truck while hanging out over there. I might stick around here and maybe pick up a few tips about my machine and maybe help someone else.


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## Rambodog (Dec 30, 2017)

For giggles, I had zero issues with the chute while out cleaning up. I did however manage to shear a pin and lost half the auger. It powered thru with added passes of course. Anyone familiar with the cable control for the chute distance control on this machine? By design they attached the cable to the back of chute and it breaks the plastic cable shell in one or two turns of the chute. Pathetic design. Any mods for this issue? The OE clamp is about 1/2" wide so I used the OE clamp to hold a 3" piece of 1/4" soft copper curved and the cable passed thru snug. It helped, but eventually the cable jacket just broke further down the line. The operation seems to be unaffected by the break in the jacket. I keep spraying cable lube in the crack and it keeps working so far. I wanted to add that I found an option for a switch since the Sears one is $40 shipped. It will require some simple pig tails to be made with shrink tubing and some minor soldering to harness, but it should fit right in place of the OE switch. I ordered a few for back ups. Got 3 for less than one through Sears. An online chat specialist did offer free shipping to save me $7 when I went sniffing around for a discount. The alternative looks like the better way with 3 of them and cleaning when needed, they should last a real long time. Here is the switch.


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## guyl (Jun 12, 2016)

I had an intermittent switch like that. To fix it I took the switch apart (there are plastic clips holding the top and bottom half together) and cleaned it up inside. Be careful not to lose the tiny rocker contacts once it's apart.


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## CeeKay1 (Dec 2, 2019)

Had the same exact problem with the switch. I removed the gear housing, inspected the electronic motor and all kinds of tests. turns out it was the switch that would then sometimes work, sometimes not. reversed it, same thing. In a pinch I removed the housing and lifted the gear to manually turn the chute as I turned the blower around for the next pass... what a pita, but got me through the end of last season.

The control cable is good on mine with no issues. Thanks for the heads up on that one. I really like this all metric Canadian model it really moves some snow had it for 5-6 years now still going strong. The electronic chute control is the balm, when it works!


Yes, you certainly could pigtail in the switch you put in however I found (what appears to be) the correct item for my blower here. I am ordering now, will see when it arrives.:


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