# John Deere 826 Completed



## badger08

Well thanks to everyone and all the help from the forum I got the blower put back together about 10 days ago and to work to use for the winter. 

Here is my original post: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/john-deere-snowblowers/27241-1980-john-deere-826-general-questions.html

A huge thanks to everyone who commented, gave tips, and helped out. It wouldn't of gotten 'went through' as thoroughly as it would have if it wasn't for everyone posting with suggestions. 

Here is what I all did to the blower: 

- Installed new belts
- Freed augers from shaft as they were seized to it
- replaced impeller bushing
- repainted parts of the blower that need it, painted inside of chute
- new scraper bar/bolts
- Installed impeller kit
- Service auger gearbox (new gasket/oil)
- Greased auger shaft
- Tapped and installed grease zerks on auger's
- Disassembled differential and cleaned old grease out, put new in
- New roller chains 
- Installed new bushings on drive axles
- Lubed shifting linkages
- Drained fuel, installed new gas line and filter
- Waxed and wiped down with Silicone Spray, cleaned with degreaser where need. 
- Installed drift kit on one side

The disappointing part is I tried it out the other day in the wet heavy snow we got and it worked perfect, was more then happy with it. But I snugged up the bolts that hold the chute but not super tight and they rattled loose. So ordered 1 to replace the 1 screw I lost, and am going to loctite them, as if to tight you can't turn the chute!

Also, on the front auger gearbox I replaced one of the oil seals where the welding got nicked it getting the shaft unseized, should of probably did all 3 while right there. But got it together and ran it a few times and it was fine but now all of a sudden it's leaking. So I have the other two seals so plan to put them in this weekend. 

I put Amsoil 5w20 in the front gearbox, do you think I'm best with a convential oil vs synthetic in there? I am thinking after I put new seals in I will put the oil back in and it should be fine. 

As everyone likes pictures and video's here is a link to some, hopefully it works!

John Deere 826 Snowblower Photos | Photobucket

Thanks again for all the help and if anyone working on a JD has questions please let me know. I did order a digital tach thing I seen another member had to going to check that tonight too to see where it's running at!


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## joee5

Good job. Lotsa pics


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## liftoff1967

Nice job. Looks like you did not waste ant time digging into the the Green Machine. Congrats.

Where "about" in MN are ya? Then again with your ID name, maybe your just across the boarder from MN (into 'sconny) as I saw a MN plate on the car,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


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## UNDERTAKER

if you used sin oil in the gear box. the seals more than likely are not made to hold sin oil. and that is why they are leaking.


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## Shryp

Why 5w20 and not something like an 80w90 gear oil?


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## Ray 1962 10ML60

Shryp said:


> Why 5w20 and not something like an 80w90 gear oil?


+1 on this...5w20 way too thin. You need gear oil like shryp said. Probably why it's leaking too.


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## badger08

liftoff1967 said:


> Nice job. Looks like you did not waste ant time digging into the the Green Machine. Congrats.
> 
> Where "about" in MN are ya? Then again with your ID name, maybe your just across the boarder from MN (into 'sconny) as I saw a MN plate on the car,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


I like digging into my 'John Deere Projects' and the snowblower was a random one but a fun one! I am from SE MN - closer to Iowa then Wisconsin. It's snowing out right now! 



Shryp said:


> Why 5w20 and not something like an 80w90 gear oil?


Operator's manual calls for 5w20 - that's why. I'll pull the manual and post it.


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## badger08

Here is what manual says? Agreed or disagreed? As I am open to options.


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## suspicionofignorance2

I may be less experienced than others...But, your manual stating 5w-20 sure seems like an error...or maybe only for Santa at North Pole...Hard to believe 5w base oil would have any cushioning properties for the gear mesh...WD-40 is 5w..if I recall..! On positive note, sure wouldn't have any HP [torque] loss !


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## badger08

suspicionofignorance2 said:


> I may be less experienced than others...But, your manual stating 5w-30 sure seems like an error...or maybe only for Santa at North Pole...Hard to believe 5w base oil would have any cushioning properties for the gear mesh...WD-40 is 5w..if I recall..! On positive note, sure wouldn't have any HP [torque] loss !


Don't worry - growing up on the farm and around equipment I to thought it was a little off. But the tech manual states the same thing? I had my doubts and thought of a 30 weight or something. But then figured who knows better then Deere and all there testing afterall. 

Let me ask this. What do other brands call for? Ariens, Honda, etc?


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## suspicionofignorance2

It may be age related...My stuff is older...80-90 gear lube is stated...But, ? Maybe its a EPA thing ...sorta like the cars...eng 0w-30 now, less power losses, less HP needed, less pollution ?


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## Shryp

Some of the Craftsman blowers used 30w oil. Also, a lot of gear reduction boxes (6:1) use motor oil. The old Ariens were 90w before they started making their own oil.


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## suspicionofignorance2

Yup...Straight 30w oil has plenty of cushioning for the gears....and replaces the 80-90w...But, Hard [for me] to understand why a factory engineer would want to use 5w, unless it's some sort of compromise..Trade off for ??


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## Flippie

Hi Badger08. Great job with your 826. I have a 1979, 826 Looks similar parts as yours. Would love some advice on play on shaft and gearbox.


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## SimplicitySolid22

EDIT: I just read your response that manual states 5w-20.....Trust it I would say. 





KNOCK ON WOOD: I am on year six with Syn 80w90 only....no grease and worm gear box is great and runs smooth...



I found an old thread and new I had researched this back in the day. And forgot most of this info:


********************THIS BELOW IS FROM 02/27/2013*******************



My two cents of investigating gear oil.

I bought valvoline durablend gear oil this is Gl5 & GL4 gear rated and also states on the bottle that it is safe for all GL4 manual transmissions applications... meaning it does not eat yellow metals. I spoke directly to valvoline and the guy told me that if the bottle says that then it is safe for brass gears. But he also told me something I had heard the exact oppostie of. I had heard that most of todays gear oils rated GL5 have inactive sulfurs as opposed to older gear oils that have active sulfur(active sulfur eats yellow metals). But he told me that that process of making inactive sulfur is very expensive and that valvoline has gone back to the old way which now has active sulfur back in it's GL5 rated gear oils. But my bottle I bought at autozone is safe for yellow metals is rated for all GL4 applications. 

Lesson being even if you are told 80w90 gear oil is safe for yellow metals make sure if it has a Gl5 rating it either states on that bottle Safe for yellow metals or safe for all GL4 applications and any manual transmission requiring GL4.

Preferably it says API GL4-GL5 rated not just GL5 by itself. I would make sure it says safe for yellow metals on it as well. 

I believe mine had grease in it originally but I am running straight gear oil in my new auger gearbox and seems and sounds fine. Manual states Gear oil but had grease in it when it was opened up. New one straight gear oil only. Knock on wood. 
_ Last edited by Simplicity Solid 22; 02-27-2013 at 02:09 PM. _


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## badger08

Flippie said:


> Hi Badger08. Great job with your 826. I have a 1979, 826 Looks similar parts as yours. Would love some advice on play on shaft and gearbox.



Flippie, I'll send you a PM.


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## badger08

Flippie said:


> Hi Badger08. Great job with your 826. I have a 1979, 826 Looks similar parts as yours. Would love some advice on play on shaft and gearbox.





SimplicitySolid22 said:


> EDIT: I just read your response that manual states 5w-20.....Trust it I would say.
> 
> KNOCK ON WOOD: I am on year six and worm gear box is great and runs smooth...
> 
> I found an old thread and new I had researched this back in the day. And forgot most of this info:
> 
> ********************THIS BELOW IS FROM 02/27/2013*******************
> 
> My two cents of investigating gear oil.
> 
> I bought valvoline durablend gear oil this is Gl5 & GL4 gear rated and also states on the bottle that it is safe for all GL4 manual transmissions applications... meaning it does not eat yellow metals. I spoke directly to valvoline and the guy told me that if the bottle says that then it is safe for brass gears. But he also told me something I had heard the exact oppostie of. I had heard that most of todays gear oils rated GL5 have inactive sulfurs as opposed to older gear oils that have active sulfur(active sulfur eats yellow metals). But he told me that that process of making inactive sulfur is very expensive and that valvoline has gone back to the old way which now has active sulfur back in it's GL5 rated gear oils. But my bottle I bought at autozone is safe for yellow metals is rated for all GL4 applications.
> 
> Lesson being even if you are told 80w90 gear oil is safe for yellow metals make sure if it has a Gl5 rating it either states on that bottle Safe for yellow metals or safe for all GL4 applications and any manual transmission requiring GL4.
> 
> Preferably it says API GL4-GL5 rated not just GL5 by itself. I would make sure it says safe for yellow metals on it as well.
> 
> I believe mine had grease in it originally but I am running straight gear oil in my new auger gearbox and seems and sounds fine. Manual states Gear oil but had grease in it when it was opened up. New one straight gear oil only. Knock on wood.
> _ Last edited by Simplicity Solid 22; 02-27-2013 at 02:09 PM. _



SimplicitySolid22 - that's what I am still running and where I am at. What I would do is replaced ALL the seals in the main housing, all 3. When I had mine apart I installed one on the side I thought was leaking, still leaked. Pulled it apart and did another one. Still leaks, I should of done the back one the shaft comes into as well. The first year it leaked, not much, but some, then last year it didn't leak at all! I thought huh, this year it leaks. Not a big deal, I check it when I get it out always and put cardboard under it and check it a few times throughout the winter. 



I run synthetic oil in my engine, but conventional oil in the main housing. I've read some use John Deere's cornhead grease that is used on combines and while it should probably work and it annoys me it leaks, at the same time I have oil and the little it holds isn't a big deal. 



Growing up on the farm, dealing with Dad's tractors, bulldozers, balers, and having lots of their older stuff, corn shellers, hit and miss engines, etc. - usually John Deere is pretty tried and true to what they recommend. When the 4020's came out they had their 'Special Purpose Oil' for Transmissions and Hydraulic's which in a few years was replaced with 'Hy-Gard' which they still use today. In testing they found the special purpose oil had issues. I guess what I'm after is the later manuals would of updated the oil spec. The operators manual or the service manual. Since it's in both I trust what they recommend and that's what they run. 



Even in this cold weather we just experienced Dad's skid loader running Shell Rotella 0-40 did not like the cold. He had issues, just imagine that gearbox starting out with 80-90 in it. Not for me, I'm sure it warms up and gets more fluid, but John Deere also probably knew most homeowners were going to fire it out engage it and go out and blow snow. Not run it at a slower RPM for a bit and warm up that oil. 



Next one I go into to take apart will get all 3 seals, which I've found online, and are much cheaper then JD. I still get most everything for them from JD just because I have friends that work there and they bring the parts home for me so it's easy to get parts the same or next day.


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## SimplicitySolid22

badger08 said:


> SimplicitySolid22 - that's what I am still running and where I am at. What I would do is replaced ALL the seals in the main housing, all 3. When I had mine apart I installed one on the side I thought was leaking, still leaked. Pulled it apart and did another one. Still leaks, I should of done the back one the shaft comes into as well. The first year it leaked, not much, but some, then last year it didn't leak at all! I thought huh, this year it leaks. Not a big deal, I check it when I get it out always and put cardboard under it and check it a few times throughout the winter.
> 
> 
> 
> I run synthetic oil in my engine, but conventional oil in the main housing. I've read some use John Deere's cornhead grease that is used on combines and while it should probably work and it annoys me it leaks, at the same time I have oil and the little it holds isn't a big deal.
> 
> 
> 
> Growing up on the farm, dealing with Dad's tractors, bulldozers, balers, and having lots of their older stuff, corn shellers, hit and miss engines, etc. - usually John Deere is pretty tried and true to what they recommend. When the 4020's came out they had their 'Special Purpose Oil' for Transmissions and Hydraulic's which in a few years was replaced with 'Hy-Gard' which they still use today. In testing they found the special purpose oil had issues. I guess what I'm after is the later manuals would of updated the oil spec. The operators manual or the service manual. Since it's in both I trust what they recommend and that's what they run.
> 
> 
> 
> Even in this cold weather we just experienced Dad's skid loader running Shell Rotella 0-40 did not like the cold. He had issues, just imagine that gearbox starting out with 80-90 in it. Not for me, I'm sure it warms up and gets more fluid, but John Deere also probably knew most homeowners were going to fire it out engage it and go out and blow snow. Not run it at a slower RPM for a bit and warm up that oil.
> 
> 
> 
> Next one I go into to take apart will get all 3 seals, which I've found online, and are much cheaper then JD. I still get most everything for them from JD just because I have friends that work there and they bring the parts home for me so it's easy to get parts the same or next day.



I had also bought this because it is straight GL4 safe for yellow metals.


https://pitstopusa.com/i-23944656-b...MI6puz-7yb4AIVpv_jBx01OQUiEAYYASABEgKpVfD_BwE


I have it unopened but have thought of emptying my Syn Valvoline and replacing with Penn.


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