# First full use HSS1332



## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

We had a snowfall of medium density snow over the last 40hours here in northern NJ. I took the 1332 through my normal removal routine. 300'x10' asphalt driveway with an attached parking area for 3 vehicles. I also clear snow to 4 out-building and clear snow from around the perimeter of the house. I would estimate the path clearing total to be 1000'. I am still scratching my head over the main jet being a 95 main jet and kept that in mind as I cleared. I am only at 507' ASL and the dealer that I purchased it from is at 305'. The machine worked flawlessly. It started on the first pull and literally did not give me one hiccup sneeze or any other issue. I can't wait to yank the e-tube and see if it is indeed the correct one for the GX-390. I ran the machine at 3/4 throttle for 90% of the work. It still ejected snow up to 40+ feet when the condition was correct. Little snow or heavier wet snow in the direct sunlight was not ejected as far. I also did run at full throttle and the results were as expected. The snow was sticky and I cleared the auger a half dozen times. I didn't use any spray product on the auger or chute for the initial run/test. All of the controls worked smoothly. The curve was about 10 minutes in duration and I was operating everything smoothly and quickly. No complaints as of yet. 
Cheers


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Curious as to why you only ran at partial throttle.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Welcome to the Snowblower forum!
Good to hear things went well.
Of course, for a 2 year old machine, you'd sure hope so, eh?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

seems to me you do not need to do anything. I always run my snowblowers at full throttle.


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## Arcticnorth (Nov 27, 2020)

Falstaff said:


> I ran the machine at 3/4 throttle for 90% of the work


Honda recommends full throttle when blowing, that is what the machine is designed for. The only time I slow down the rpm is if I take a short break, up to 2-3 minutes. More than that I stop it.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Arcticnorth said:


> Honda recommends full throttle when blowing, that is what the machine is designed for. The only time I slow down the rpm is if I take a short break, up to 2-3 minutes. More than that I stop it.


You don't throttle to an idle before shut-down? It's been my practice to let 'er idle down for awhile.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Best to use full throttle when blowing snow. Always a good practice to idle down before stopping if only for a second or two. 

#95 main jet?? The factory jet is #102. Once you get enough hours on it, you’ll begin to notice it running leaner. I’m at 1300ft and the #110 is great.


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## Arcticnorth (Nov 27, 2020)

Rooskie said:


> You don't throttle to an idle before shut-down? It's been my practice to let 'er idle down for awhile.


Yes, of course. I always do that.


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Best to use full throttle when blowing snow. Always a good practice to idle down before stopping if only for a second or two.
> 
> #95 main jet?? The factory jet is #102. Once you get enough hours on it, you’ll begin to notice it running leaner. I’m at 1300ft and the #110 is great.


 Very strange. I had the authorized dealer verbally confirm that. I need to put my eyes on it myself. As soon as I get my 108, 110 and e-tube. I will make a swap and report back as to what I find.


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

RIT333 said:


> Curious as to why you only ran at partial throttle.


Just a habit. Ran my JD 828D at +- 3\4 throttle since 1996. Granted many times I needed full throttle. I have been doing that with my garden tractors also. The JD x-590 cuts and mulches fine qt 3/4 throttle. The old craftsman 48" garden tractor has cut fine at 3/4 gas for decades. Full tune up and sharpen blades every year. It's rare if I go more than a week without cutting. 3 acres of grass.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Falstaff said:


> Very strange. I had the authorized dealer verbally confirm that. I need to put my eyes on it myself. As soon as I get my 108, 110 and e-tube. I will make a swap and report back as to what I find.


Any particular reason for replacing the emulsion tube?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Never heard of anyone needing to replace the Main Nozzle (what you're calling the E-tube).


Falstaff said:


> I am still scratching my head over the main jet being a 95 main jet


The #95 is the extreme high altitude jet...


03499101-ZH8-0950JET, MAIN (#95) (CARBURETOR NO.)10000019999999Lean 2
 

03499101-ZH8-1000JET, MAIN (#100) (CARBURETOR NO.)10000019999999Lean 1
 

03499101-ZH8-1020JET, MAIN (#102) (CARBURETOR NO.)10000019999999Stock
 

03499101-ZH8-1080JET, MAIN (#108) (CARBURETOR NO.)10000019999999Rich 1
 

03499101-ZH8-1100JET, MAIN (#110) (CARBURETOR NO.)10000019999999Rich 2


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## Nordford (Feb 6, 2021)

I’m also confused about 3/4 throttle on a snowblower or lawnmower. It literally makes no sense to to put the engine under that extra load. 

Some newer machines don’t allow throttle control. Two of my neighbors have newish blowers and there is no throttle control. Only choke control.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

The only reason for a variable speed throttle lever is to get you between the two useful settings of full & idle throttle in a safe way so that the fuel flow adjusts to the throttle-regulated air flow somewhat gradually. Basically an OPE carb is a non-electronic solution to get close to an ideal air/fuel mixture at those two points.


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Any particular reason for replacing the emulsion tube?


I was told by the tech that the main is a 95. The engine is running butter smooth from start up to moderately loaded loaded to shut down. I'm at 507ASL. Seems odd no? I know as it sits it wont grunt hard and work at full load as it should with a larger main installed. I read this thread and decided to get another/ correct e-tube for the GX-390.
*Wrong E-Tube GX-390*
I think there is a remote possibility that the tube is incorrect. On the other hand I can't reason why the machine is running so smooth with the specifics I have suggested. Empirical report will need to wait until I get the new parts and I can yank the OEM stuff. Why a new tube? ....if the OEM tube is not the correct one I will have the correct one for the new main jet install. Secondly I could possibly have a spare correct e-tube. Thirdly.... I will have the original installed tube and jet in case I need to go back to the original set up config. I do doubt the last will be necessary.


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

Nordford said:


> I’m also confused about 3/4 throttle on a snowblower or lawnmower. It literally makes no sense to to put the engine under that extra load.


Sure, don't lug or bog it down, not good. Hundreds of times I have tackled a light to medium snowfall at 3/4 throttle and the JD had absolutely zero change in audible frequency. I felt that the machine was not struggling at all. If she struggled I would either crank up or take a smaller cut. As expected the discharge distance was not as far in full throttle. Other than that the 828 was happy for decades of this less than wide open throttle use. Probably going to keep this technique until I have a compelling reason not to.


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

Update on new machine: I am still waiting for the carb parts I ordered. So I used the blower on another 5 inches of medium density snow. Started fine and ran fine without any unusual engine gyrations. As is my habit I was not running at full throttle. I cleaned off the car and ran the blower through the now 7-8 inch pile of snow that had a partly melted top strata from the car. I started into it and the blower dug in. The tone deepened and the governor did it's job. A low growl from the motor kept up until I finished my line and then the engine resumed it's normal drone. I have never coated a blowers auger-chute -auger housing with an anti friction lubricant. I decided to give it a try. I bought the cheapest spray wax I could find. Sprayed the aforementioned parts the night before the snow and let it dry overnight. The last snow of similar depth I cleaned the auger 5-6 times and the chute several times. With the wax coating I cleaned the auger once when I was about 90% done with my full cleaning routine.. Only the auger had _some_ clinging snow. I'd say about half of what it would have before I would usually clean it off. Wax did a good job. Negatives...can't apply when metal is wet.

Cheers


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

Update: Honda dealer speak with forked lounge. I was told that there is a 95 main jet in the HSS1332. We were all surprised at my reporting that the machine ran strong at my 507'elevation. I had my new parts delivered the other day so I was ready to pop in the 110 main jet. I pulled out the main jet and the immersion tube main-tube, proper nomenclature courtesy Tabora. Low and behold it's a 102. I installed the 110 and checked the main tube to make sure it is correct. It is. Take note that the link in my above post# 15 has erroneous information. The tube on the bottom is the *correct* one for the HSS1332 GX-390.

From Link*:*










...end.

The tube that was in my new GX390 matches, the bottom tube in the picture, and the new one I ordered for the GX390 from HONDA are identical.
Correct tube:









The _correct tube_ has the following config on the center section: 2 holes below 3 holes east and west. 2 holes below 2 holes north and south.

Just a heads up for anyone replacing the jet. The float chamber is easily seated back on slightly cocked. There is your gas leak. Seat the bolt while cocked and the bowl is now racked. Probably will never seat properly again. Make sure the chamber is gently seated squarely and *firmly held in place* before you start to hand tighten the bolt.
The 1332 stared on the first pull. I let it warm at just above idle for a minute. When I throttled up it hunted. The hunting slowly subsided to a steady RPM after a minute. My JD did exactly the same thing.

All is good. Thanks to the resident TEDs.

Cheers


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

update......with the 110 in it idled and ran full throttle smoothly. Different story loaded up. I loaded up the machine with 8" of compressed snow that pretty much crystalized. She surged hard. Would not stop hunting. I dropped down to a 108 main and that seems to do it, no surging. Went through the same icesnow easily and the governor kicked in with a steady deep drone. Cleared another path to an outbuilding about 100 yards long, not a hiccup.

Cheers


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## jdavis (Nov 28, 2015)

Falstaff said:


> Sure, don't lug or bog it down, not good. Hundreds of times I have tackled a light to medium snowfall at 3/4 throttle and the JD had absolutely zero change in audible frequency. I felt that the machine was not struggling at all.


You haven't actually given a reason why you do it, just that you do it.. lol


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

I have run all my lawn equipment at less than full throttle. Why? Because I have had exceptional longevity out of my yard machines by going less than full throttle when I can. Simple as that. Glad it gave you a chuckle.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

Falstaff: 

I am with you, use what throttle you need. Yes Honda designs a decent life out of full throttle but if you don't need full output, the engine is spinning slower and it does not wear out.

so say Honda design 500 hour life, if you slow it down you extend that to 750 (just figures not true one)

Honda designs this for average (or less) person with no machinery experience those not growing up with and a feel for machinery ala old farts or gear heads. 


I know what RPM/speeds to shift the Ural at to avoid lugging. But I can shift a lot lower going downhill or if I am idling along vs accelerating.

Machinery is not an app you just push the icon and it take care of life for you!


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

RC20 said:


> Falstaff:
> 
> I am with you, use what throttle you need. Yes Honda designs a decent life out of full throttle but if you don't need full output, the engine is spinning slower and it does not wear out.
> 
> ...


Good analogy....Cheers


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## Woodpecker (Jan 31, 2021)

Got to take my HSS1332 out on its maiden voyage Wednesday during a break in a pretty good storm that we ended up getting 16-18"(I'm in So Cal!  ),when this capture from security system was taken we were at 6-8". Had a few issues , first the auger clutch handle wouldn't lock when drive clutch was engaged, headed back to garage read a little here(@SBF) and the manual and just checked it out visually . Looks like to much grease where the catch inside handle is, scraped some out with a wire and working the auger clutch a lot it seems to be working, still takes a little more effort than I would like but hopefully it will loosen up some more. The motor ran flawlessly , I am at 5300' but is definitely thirstier than my Arien compact 24"trackdrive .Only other issue and it really me getting skid height where I'll be comfortable with how clean I clear the road without causing excessive wear on scraper or auger. My road is a private asphalt road not as perfect as a county road for flatness, my 24" Ariens I was able to run almost flat on road leaving not quite squeaky clean. In the photo I am @ 1/8" and the problem is it "catches" somewhere, not sure if wider width of Honda is magnifying road imperfections. Second time out I installed the Honda poly side skid kit( I wanted to try in stock mode before installing kit) and set them the same as rear skids and performance was much better but not quite where i want to be at though. I'm thinking next storm removing rear skids and just going with side skids, as that is what the kit directions recommend. I know a lot of members set the sides higher than rear so they can get more of the biting down rotating bucket slightly but wonder how many just go with side skids ,seems like it would be more stable without rear skids. Any thoughts!!


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

Woodpecker said:


> View attachment 176974
> 
> Got to take my HSS1332 out on its maiden voyage Wednesday during a break in a pretty good storm that we ended up getting 16-18"(I'm in So Cal!  ),when this capture from security system was taken we were at 6-8". Had a few issues , first the auger clutch handle wouldn't lock when drive clutch was engaged, headed back to garage read a little here(@SBF) and the manual and just checked it out visually . Looks like to much grease where the catch inside handle is, scraped some out with a wire and working the auger clutch a lot it seems to be working, still takes a little more effort than I would like but hopefully it will loosen up some more. The motor ran flawlessly , I am at 5300' but is definitely thirstier than my Arien compact 24"trackdrive .Only other issue and it really me getting skid height where I'll be comfortable with how clean I clear the road without causing excessive wear on scraper or auger. My road is a private asphalt road not as perfect as a county road for flatness, my 24" Ariens I was able to run almost flat on road leaving not quite squeaky clean. In the photo I am @ 1/8" and the problem is it "catches" somewhere, not sure if wider width of Honda is magnifying road imperfections. Second time out I installed the Honda poly side skid kit( I wanted to try in stock mode before installing kit) and set them the same as rear skids and performance was much better but not quite where i want to be at though. I'm thinking next storm removing rear skids and just going with side skids, as that is what the kit directions recommend. I know a lot of members set the sides higher than rear so they can get more of the biting down rotating bucket slightly but wonder how many just go with side skids ,seems like it would be more stable without rear skids. Any thoughts!!


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

I am new to blowing snow. I will be dealing with gravel and grass the most, so will be installing Armorskids on 1332. I don't need to scrape any paved surface. One thing to keep in mind is changing location of skids changes the angles the bucket and auger run at. Putting skids on the side of housing can somewhat limit the ability to dig in simply because it holds the auger up in the center. If you try to go lower than what your skids are set at, you'll actually raise the scraper with side skids. You change the pivot point (fulcrum). I think that is why track machines come with rear mounted shoes. If you run at the same height all the time, either type skid is fine. You can make adjustments. If you need to run at different levels, I would think you might be better off with the rear skids. Just my opinion, something to ponder.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Woodpecker said:


> Any thoughts!!


Set the rear skids with the scraper bar set on two or three layers of paint stirrers, and then the side skids with the scraper bar set on one or two layers.


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## Woodpecker (Jan 31, 2021)

tabora said:


> Set the rear skids with the scraper bar set on two or three layers of paint stirrers, and then the side skids with the scraper bar set on one or two layers.


Thank you Tabora, will give that set up a try. But will probably in the fall before we get anymore snow in So Cal to check it out!


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

Newbie question. Have new 1332 still in crate, on the trailer. Doesn't look like snow till next winter. Question is should I keep the machine without gas and oil, or add gas and oil and run it for short time. Appx. 8 months before any snow? Would like to do what's best for machine. Would love to fire it up and check everything out. Also would be easier to move if under power. Any tips on pros/cons would be appreciated. Let it snow!


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

larry1976 said:


> Question is should I keep the machine without gas and oil, or add gas and oil and run it for short time.


It may have (some) oil in it... I would open it up, make sure the oil is filled, put in a pint of TruFuel, and run it to be certain that everything is OK. If it has a battery, get it onto a maintainer.


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

Thanx Tabora, so I have E0 gas and stabilizer. Is that o.k. to use? Are we talking draining tank and carb after running before storage? Or draining carb and storing with full tank? Or just leaving remainder of TruFuel in tank while in storage?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

larry1976 said:


> Thanx Tabora, so I have E0 gas and stabilizer. Is that o.k. to use? Are we talking draining tank and carb after running before storage? Or draining carb and storing with full tank? Or just leaving remainder of TruFuel in tank while in storage?


None of the above; run it until the pint is gone... A gallon lasts less than an hour, and a pint is 1/8 of a gallon; won't take long.


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

Thank you, will hunt down some TruFuel and follow your instruction happily. Again, thank you.


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

Noticed your picture. Do you fish walleye? Just curious.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

larry1976 said:


> Thank you, will hunt down some TruFuel and follow your instruction happily. Again, thank you.


Your E0 will do just fine...


larry1976 said:


> Noticed your picture. Do you fish walleye? Just curious.


Nope, I'm in Maine, so brook, brown, rainbow & lake trout, salmon, bass, pickerel, hornpout, smelt, stripers, bluefish, mackerel, shark, bluefin tuna.


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

I'll consider you a lucky man with all those fish to chase. SE Wisconsin for me, world class walleye (obsessed} and some darn good salmon. Spring coho/silver are really great here. Am going to run TruFuel in the blower after reading up on it. EO is 91 if you can trust that. Sure I can trust TF since that's what it's all about. Hope the jet on blower is right ( shipped from Colorado) and not high altitude. I'm at 800 ft here. Guess time will tell. I'll have to google the town where dealer is at to check altitude. Installing armorskids and oil drain ext. tube (with elbow) tomorrow. Going to reverse the skids inwards under the housing to reduce any contact bottom of housing. Will be min. 1/2" up so don't expect problem with scraper. Trickle charger and a couple coates of ceramic and should be ready. Then onto the yard work. And those pesky coho.


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

Obsessing still about new blower and thinking I might go with a 110 jet right from the start. Any reason why this shouldn't be done until machine has some time on it? From what I've gathered, 110 to 112 seems to be what's called for. More power, always good thing. I have no tach or meters of any sort. Pretty good ear as far as engines go. Guess the smart thing would be to wait for snow to test under load. No fun there. O.k. to change jet before motor is "broke in"?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

larry1976 said:


> O.k. to change jet before motor is "broke in"?


I would normally say wait 10 hours until the break-in occurs so that the cylinder walls don't get washed with excess fuel, but if Honda is now shipping them with the #110 as stock, that shoots that theory all to heck...


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

I don't know what jet is in my machine. I read some place that #90 was stock. I think it was AGK's website. Anyhow what you stated above makes sense to me, so I think I'll hold off on rejetting and play it safe. Really appreciate all your input. I have to admit though, I'm tempted to pull the jet just to see.


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

Depending on where I look, the only constant is .036-.038. as far as stock. Also believe that .043-.045 is close to desired size.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

larry1976 said:


> I read some place that #90 was stock.


Nope. If your serial number starts with a 2, then #110 is stock. Earlier HSS1332As had the #102 as stock.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> Set the rear skids with the scraper bar set on two or three layers of paint stirrers, and then the side skids with the scraper bar set on one or two layers.


.....and I was thinking I wasn’t gonna put the side skids on and just go with the rears......I bought a set of sides but not the armorskids.....oh boy....


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## larry1976 (Mar 20, 2021)

Tabora,you are the answer man. Awsome!!!!!


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> Nope. If your serial number starts with a 2, then #110 is stock. Earlier HSS1332As had the #102 as stock.


I can attest mine purchased in February, 2021, came with the #110....


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## ssls6 (Sep 25, 2019)

Weird. My engine SN is 209xxx and came with a 102 jet.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

ssls6 said:


> Weird. My engine SN is 209xxx and came with a 102 jet.


It's not the engine serial number, it's the HSS1332A serial number...
Prefix: SAFA
Serial: 2000001 - 9999999

BTW, your engine serial number is off by a factor of 10; all recent Honda engine serial numbers have a 4 or 5 letter prefix followed by a 7 digit serial number.


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## ssls6 (Sep 25, 2019)

Your right about the engine...I left off an X. My actual engine number is GCBDT-2070818.

The machine SN is SAFA-101xxxx

I'm glad to know I was looking at the wrong number at first. Thanks.


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