# Worst machine I ever bought. Ariens Platinum 24" SHO (2015)



## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

I've used it a total of 6 times for approximately 3 hours total use as last winter was warm and mostly snow free. It's already broken down to unusable twice, and now requires service again. The first time I went to use it, it had a starting issue which required service. Approximately 3 weeks later it required service again for a belt issue (I believe it was the pulley if I recall correctly). Today I went out to use the blower and again it had a problem, this time it was leaking oil. This unit has proved extremely unreliable, requiring repair for what is quite literally every other use. Completely unacceptable for a new high end unit to be this unreliable and require repairs this frequently. Of all the power tools I ever bought, this is the worst. Maybe I should have bought something higher quality, like a Power Smart for $399. 

Yeah, the dealer is nice and everything, but that doesn't help me at all. I need a machine that is reliable and works, not a smiling face that says, "see you in a week".


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## PixMan (Feb 14, 2015)

You clearly got a lemon in the basket of juicy red apples. I feel bad for you, the dealer should replace it with a completely new machine and many apologies. If the dealer won't step up, contact Ariens directly, they care.

I have a 2013 Platinum 30 and it's been the complete opposite. It had about 8 months left on the warranty when I bought it used from the dealer that originally sold it to a fellow who had sold off his house and bought a condominium. Never needed the warranty and still don't. It's easy to appreciate that you'll probably never buy an Ariens ever again, but they should at least deliver a new one with the stickers & tags still on it so you can get top dollar for a new, never used machine and go buy something that makes you comfortable.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

ewhenn said:


> I've used it a total of 6 times for approximately 3 hours total use as last winter was warm and mostly snow free. It's already broken down to unusable twice, and now requires service again. The first time I went to use it, it had a starting issue which required service. Approximately 3 weeks later it required service again for a belt issue (I believe it was the pulley if I recall correctly). Today I went out to use the blower and again it had a problem, this time it was leaking oil. This unit has proved extremely unreliable, requiring repair for what is quite literally every other use. Completely unacceptable for a new high end unit to be this unreliable and require repairs this frequently. Of all the power tools I ever bought, this is the worst. Maybe I should have bought something higher quality, like a Power Smart for $399.
> 
> Yeah, the dealer is nice and everything, but that doesn't help me at all. I need a machine that is reliable and works, not a smiling face that says, "see you in a week".


*You sure that is not left over oil from a oil change long ago that finally made it's way down to the bottom.*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*There are at least 2 places it could leak from. 1 being a cracked block or from those drain pipes.*


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *You sure that is not left over oil from a oil change long ago that finally made it's way down to the bottom.*


It's still the original factory oil. I ~3 hours run time, manual says it's not due yet.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

ewhenn said:


> It's still the original factory oil. I ~3 hours run time, manual says it's not due yet.


* DID you have a looksee around there.*


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *There are at least 2 places it could leak from. 1 being a cracked block or from those drain pipes.*


I'm pretty far from a mechanic.

I know there is a drain plug in the back on a tube, no leak there. I checked around the base where the engine attaches to the frame. I wiped my finger all the way around three sides and got no oil, and nothing is visible around that part to my eye. There is a plastic cover between the engine and augers that covers the belts, I did not take the cover off and check there. The oil seems to be dripping from inside where all the transmission parts are located from the front right corner.

I would have no idea what a cracked block would look like.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Pop that plastic cover off and have a looksee around in there.*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*when you have checked the oil. did you have to add some.*


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

ewhenn said:


> ....... Maybe I should have bought something higher quality, like a Power Smart for $399.


OH,SNAP!!!When you're angry,you aim right for the scrote!

Joking aside,sorry this happened.You're right,this is absolutely unacceptable.As has been stated,I'd start with the dealer,but I think Ariens themselves would be willing to do what was necessary to make you happy.


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## GAR (Nov 7, 2014)

I had a 2015 22" powersmart two stage and that sucker ran great after I opened up the jet in the carb...Sold it to a buddy who has used it 4 times this year and he says it dose a really good job. That really stinks about your Ariens, I am with PixMan and I would contact Ariens directly and see what they will do for you....Good luck.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *when you have checked the oil. did you have to add some.*


Well, I checked it the fifth time I used it (first use of the season), and it was fine, just below the top dot on the stick. I haven't had a chance to check it since the leak today, I had to go to work and needed to clear the driveway before leaving.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

It's a possibility the oil is dripping from the linkage where the grease fitting is located. To inspect that you simply remove the 4 screws on the belly pan. Perhaps it's just leaking from the fitting. Grease will melt and drip. I don't see how the engine is leaking if you have checked the base of the engine and it appears dry. Unless it's leaking on the front seal. Remove the 2 screws of the belt cover and inspect the front side of the engine.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* Yeah sure you betcha it is not leaking oil. you have runoff from some type of grease or oil used in the gear case. No problem anytimek:k:k:k:k:*


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## Cardo111 (Feb 16, 2015)

I have owned 3 newer Ariens machines and currently own the one you are having issues with. I had a Deluxe 28 limited edition that had the 414cc engine that had a leaking gear case (red oil all over my mat in the garage). I ended up returning it to the dealer after he fought me a bit, he was far away (a solid hour drive in a mountainous area with a trailer on my van) I learned a lesson to buy close to home when possible when purchasing big ticket OPE.

I have only used mine a few times and it has performed well. My only peeve with the machine is a poorly designed and cheap fuel cap (nearly impossible to reinstall with the included fuel tank strainer) and a small metal fuel tank for a relatively large engine. I think LCT should move to plastic fuel tanks with typical screw on caps. However the advantage of the current Gen 3 low profile engine design is that it is very easy to see over if you are under 5'10." I was considering a Pro 28 it was too high for me with the big Briggs engine and the 23.5" high bucket. Love the Pro 28 but just too much blower for my needs here in downstate NY and again better for taller folk.

Regarding your issue, first thing Monday morning I would give Ariens headquarters in Brillion, WI a phone call. They are very helpful and will likely provide you with a reference number and will work directly with your dealer to help resolve this. As others have said I would ask for a new machine, tell them you don't want to overhaul the entire machine that you barely used to try to determine the problem. However they have every right to just keep trying to fix it under the warranty agreement, whether to fix or replace is at their discretion. It is different from the lemon laws with automobiles. Keep us posted and let us know if you are satisfied with the outcome.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

Like I said in my post. In order to find the leak, he will need to remove the belt cover and the belly pan.


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## New_HondaHS35 (Jan 18, 2014)

Ariens hydro pro said:


> Like I said in my post. In order to find the leak, he will need to remove the belt cover and the belly pan.


he shouldn't have to, if it's brand new


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

In all fairness, even new cars break down, which is why you see them towed into the dealer service department. Things happen. We don't want them to because we pay a lot of good money, but nothing in life can be guaranteed, save for death, and taxes. It sucks when we are let down, but all we can do is pick our pants up, and move on, or stand in place for the rest of our lives and watch life pass us by. Get it fixed, or sell it, move on, and find a way to be happy.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

Just for the sake of checking, run you hand down the shaft for the auger. On the off chance the gear case is leaking. Since you not seeing any obvious leaking from the engine.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

Ariens hydro pro said:


> Like I said in my post. In order to find the leak, he will need to remove the belt cover and the belly pan.


Sorry, I have no idea what you are talking about. What the **** is a belly pan? I do IT by trade, I can probably bore you all day with SIP trunking, OCL, and Asterisk configuration. 

I pulled the cover off and I don't see anything there. No oil running down the side of the box. 





























Factory oil, sill like new and just below the top hole on the stick.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

Motor City said:


> Just for the sake of checking, run you hand down the shaft for the auger. On the off chance the gear case is leaking. Since you not seeing any obvious leaking from the engine.


I can do that but it seems like the oil is coming from inside the big metal box part that the engine sits on. The part where the "front facing metal plate" meets the bottom plate on the box is dripping from the lower right corner... if that makes sense, I'll check the auger shaft.... EDIT: Nope, nothing from there. 

The oil seems to be coming from the inside of the "metal box" below the engine, by the impeller enclosure, front right side.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

GoBlowSnow said:


> In all fairness, even new cars break down, which is why you see them towed into the dealer service department. Things happen. We don't want them to because we pay a lot of good money, but nothing in life can be guaranteed, save for death, and taxes. It sucks when we are let down, but all we can do is pick our pants up, and move on, or stand in place for the rest of our lives and watch life pass us by. Get it fixed, or sell it, move on, and find a way to be happy.


Oh I get that. Except this would be like the car breaking down for the third time on your sixth drive. I'm sure you'd be pissed off if your new car broke down every other drive.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

ewh, *if *your fuel tank is close to empty, you can put a piece of cardboard or carpet down in front of the machine( to keep from scratching it) and stand it up on its bucket. that will expose the belly pan.....could be four bolts or could be just two. you should learn how to do this as it is a basic maintenance thing,


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

nwcove said:


> ewh, *if *your fuel tank is close to empty, you can put a piece of cardboard or carpet down in front of the machine( to keep from scratching it) and stand it up on its bucket. that will expose the belly pan.....could be four bolts or could be just two. you should learn how to do this as it is a basic maintenance thing,


Oh that's what the "belly pan" is? I've opened that up to grease/lube at the end of the season last year. I call it, "the metal plate on the bottom".


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

ewhenn said:


> Oh that's what the "belly pan" is? I've opened that up to grease/lube at the end of the season last year. I call it, "the metal plate on the bottom".


yep, thats it. now we are getting somewhere ! did you over grease things under the metal plate on the bottom ? some grease will " separate" over time. this could account for what looks like an oil leak but is nothing more than the grease itself leaking its oil base.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Yes the belly pan removed could give you insight but if you ask me I would definitively bring it to your dealer to check if the front engine shaft is dripping oil and that would be the seal that could allow leakage.
In the meantime verify your oil level.

Good Luck

Norm


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

ewhenn said:


> Oh that's what the "belly pan" is? I've opened that up to grease/lube at the end of the season last year. I call it, "the metal plate on the bottom".


Sorry for your troubles, this has got to be frustrating ewhenn. This is my third year with my 2 stage and with just 2 uses last winter I've never taken off the bottom plate. Can some Ariens owners weigh in on what you guys are lubing? Is it the chain or the shaft that the drive rim slides on? Seems this problem might be over lubing, but taking off the bottom should confirm.


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## Geo (Dec 19, 2016)

Opened up a new Ariens Platinum 24 and there was oil laying in the bottom pan and dripping slightly from the bottom of the machine. It was simply from the initial factory lubrication. Wipe things down if new, and confirm that the chain is lubed along with the shaft which the friction wheel is connected to. Lube the sprockets and any gear teeth. I only use a very light coating of grease as it stays in place better than any oil; the last thing you want is to have a lubricant find its way onto the friction disk. After each season it's a good idea to remove the bottom pan and clean out as much of the residual belt dust that inevitably finds its was into this compartment, then check the friction wheel for rubber condition and wear.

Cheers.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

Geo said:


> Opened up a new Ariens Platinum 24 and there was oil laying in the bottom pan and dripping slightly from the bottom of the machine. It was simply from the initial factory lubrication. Wipe things down if new, and confirm that the chain is lubed along with the shaft which the friction wheel is connected to. Lube the sprockets and any gear teeth. I only use a very light coating of grease as it stays in place better than any oil; the last thing you want is to have a lubricant find its way onto the friction disk. After each season it's a good idea to remove the bottom pan and clean out as much of the residual belt dust that inevitably finds its was into this compartment, then check the friction wheel for rubber condition and wear.
> 
> Cheers.


The machine is technically 1 year old (with 3 hours run time). I only do a light coating and wiped away the excess oil/grease. The oil is continually dripping out, so I don't think that it's just excess at this point. 

On top of that Ariens support was essentially worthless. I called their corporate office, and their solution was to send it to a dealer. I explained that It's now needed repairs for the 3rd time in 6 uses, and asked for a new unit swap for this lemon. They said they don't offer swaps, they just keep repairing them. My dealer is backed up to 2 1/2 weeks to repair it. I have to pay for transport to and from the dealer as Ariens won't cover that either. Ariens is a bad joke of a company, no support and no solution in sight.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

ewhenn said:


> The machine is technically 1 year old (with 3 hours run time). I only do a light coating and wiped away the excess oil/grease. The oil is continually dripping out, so I don't think that it's just excess at this point.
> 
> On top of that Ariens support was essentially worthless. I called their corporate office, and their solution was to send it to a dealer. I explained that It's now needed repairs for the 3rd time in 6 uses, and asked for a new unit swap for this lemon. They said they don't offer swaps, they just keep repairing them. My dealer is backed up to 2 1/2 weeks to repair it. I have to pay for transport to and from the dealer as Ariens won't cover that either. Ariens is a bad joke of a company, no support and no solution in sight.


remove the belly pan, clean it up under there, use it , then have another look. there are only two "real" sources of your " leak". the engine itself and the auger gearbox.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

While tinkering under there be careful not to get any oil /grease on either the rubber tipped wheel or its work mate the aluminum flat disk. Any residue on either one of them will start a whole new problem of not getting anywhere in a storm.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

ewhenn, I sent a PM to the Ariens contact to see if they might be able to jump in and give you a hand. Not sure what will come of it but figured it's worth a try.
Sorry I didn't think of it sooner.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> ewhenn, I sent a PM to the Ariens contact to see if they might be able to jump in and give you a hand. Not sure what will come of it but figured it's worth a try.
> Sorry I didn't think of it sooner.


Thanks for trying to assist.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

all3939 said:


> While tinkering under there be careful not to get any oil /grease on either the rubber tipped wheel or its work mate the aluminum flat disk. Any residue on either one of them will start a whole new problem of not getting anywhere in a storm.


I'll make sure to toss a clean rag over top just in case so nothing drips on it when I get a chance to open it up.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

nwcove said:


> remove the belly pan, clean it up under there, use it , then have another look. there are only two "real" sources of your " leak". the engine itself and the auger gearbox.


I found out where it was coming from after the bottom plate was removed. You can see the lubricant pooling point in the front right like I mentioned. It looks like it's coming from the wheel axels. See some pictures below. Side note, there are lots of rubber flakes and the rubber wheel that is part of the transmission is beveled on one side, is that normal? I never noticed it before. 

I'm so glad it's nothing I'll need to worry about (I don't think so anyways?). I was furious at the thought of sending it back in again.



























Just in time, the snow started to come down as I was wrapping up.


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## seba1865 (Dec 20, 2016)

i was where you are 14 years ago with my former Ariens 524, smaller/less capable, none the less a worthwhile unit. I had bought it at the big orange box store, in October. One of the local lawn/snow places was having a snowblower sale and i took advantage of the big orange box store policy on meeting/beating prices by 10% along with their 10% off credit card purchases. 

stuffed the monster into the truck of an L200 Saturn , half of it sticking out, and got it home. 

So excited and with no snow, in october, i just used it around my driveway like a little kid and showed my father in law. He used it for all of 30 seconds and all the sudden the snow blower just didn't move forwards/backwards nothing at all - engine running , auger worked, but no movement.

I contacted Ariens customer support online and spent a few days going back an forth with no resolution on email. There was no way i could pick it up and load the beast back into the truck of the L200 and drag it to the service shop. I ended up contacting Mr. Ariens through their email and forwarded the email traffic from their customer support and suggested it was not adequate given the age of the machine. 

After that it we worked everything out. I took a few pictures, sent them details and they figured out the issues. They called the local Ariens dealer picked up the machine, fixed it and brought it back. Ariens also sent some extra parts just in case, friction disc, drive gear and misc bolts. They figured out the root cause was the lack of 'loc-tite' on the bolts that kept thing together.

That machine moved snow for 14 years. Still is - but not for me. Just sold it last week - really sad to see it go - 

It's a rough start - but once you get it figured out it's a beautiful machine....


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

All the friction discs I've seen are flat across the surface. I'm wondering if it's traveling too far and either the edge of the driving disc is cutting into it or it's getting up against the big gear on the drive axle. I think you need to adjust the shifter and make sure that in the fastest positions forward and reverse the disc is still fully on the driving disc and isn't contacting anything. Those rubber shavings are a sign something isn't right.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> All the friction discs I've seen are flat across the surface. I'm wondering if it's traveling too far and either the edge of the driving disc is cutting into it or it's getting up against the big gear on the drive axle. I think you need to adjust the shifter and make sure that in the fastest positions forward and reverse the disc is still fully on the driving disc and isn't contacting anything. Those rubber shavings are a sign something isn't right.


GAH! I wouldn't have a clue where to start with adjusting a shifter. 

My comfort limit is doing things like: changing and gapping spark plugs, greasing/oiling where the manual says to, changing oil, sharpening blades, etc. Basic bolt off and bolt on stuff. I'm pretty far from being a mechanic. I am meticulous with maintenance, but once it goes beyond that or basic tasks I feel like I might do more harm than good. I guess I may have to take it in for service after all  Do you think this is something Ariens would cover under waranty?


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## knu2xs (Jan 6, 2015)

This should give you some idea on shifter adjustment.......






 

Here's the adjustment for the interface between the Friction Wheel and Friction Plate.








Just for future reference.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

How can the axle be leaking all that oil, or any oil for that matter. Grease won't just melt like that in that high a quantity. 

The friction disk shouldn't wear on an angle.


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

Makes you wonder if someone spilled oil on the thing during assembly or it's initial fill-up and it's just residual that breaks free from all the nooks and crannies when the machine is moved or used.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Before you start to worry about adjusting it I'd pull that bottom plate off and find out IF it's traveling too far and if you can see a problem with how that friction disc edge might be getting chewed up.

Like in the posted videos doing an adjustment isn't much of a challenge. Usually it's just a matter of loosening a nut and either lengthening or shorting the cable or rod that's used to engage the friction disc.


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## Tomatillo (Nov 11, 2016)

Cardo111 said:


> As others have said I would ask for a new machine, tell them you don't want to overhaul the entire machine that you barely used to try to determine the problem.



I second that. Contact Ariens and then hammer the dealer for a new one. Let him deal with selling it as used or sending it back. You went farther than I would have in trying to fix that new machine yourself.


As to the dealer's smiling face, you can smile, too, when you tell him you demand satisfaction on this. *ASAP* because snow is falling and you don't want to wait until he tells you, you had it too long to return it. Clock is ticking.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

I would take the belt cover off the engine and look behind the crank pulley's to see if the oil came from there. May be when the dealer replaced the pulley they f up the seal. or its coming out from the easy steer gear box.


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## Strato (Aug 6, 2016)

Tomatillo said:


> I second that. Contact Ariens and then hammer the dealer for a new one. Let him deal with selling it as used or sending it back. You went farther than I would have in trying to fix that new machine yourself.
> 
> 
> As to the dealer's smiling face, you can smile, too, when you tell him you demand satisfaction on this. *ASAP* because snow is falling and you don't want to wait until he tells you, you had it too long to return it. Clock is ticking.


I too would throw this one back. You're the customer - not the service tech. 

If you purchased the machine with a charge-card, most banks will allow you to reverse a faulty transaction. It's called a "charge-back".

You bargained for a new, working machine, and received a faulty machine. You've been defrauded.

I suggest that you call the bank that issued your charge-card, and explain the situation. Normally, they'll stand behind you, and reverse the charges.


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

drmerdp said:


> How can the axle be leaking all that oil, or any oil for that matter. Grease won't just melt like that in that high a quantity.
> 
> The friction disk shouldn't wear on an angle.


I have no idea. All I know is that it is leaking that oil and it looks like someone took a chamfer bit to the rubber wheel part of the transmission, it's hard to see but the angle is visible in the pictures as well as all the rubber particles. This is going back. If the dealer won't take it back I'll try my credit card company, though who knows how much success I will have there, it's 15 months old even though it's only been used 6 times, we had a remarkably snow free winter last year.


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## slybarman (Nov 28, 2016)

Didn't you get a 3 or 5 year warranty from Ariens?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


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## ewhenn (Sep 21, 2015)

slybarman said:


> Didn't you get a 3 or 5 year warranty from Ariens?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


5 year, but that doesn't help me.

It's a new high end machine, not something 20+ years old. I get it, things break or wear out, but these problems aren't acceptable for a unit with 3 hours of usage.
I'm sick of paying for the dealer to come pick this piece of **** up.
I'm sick of it breaking every other use.
Through the help of this forum (which I appreciate), I found out not only is something leaking, possibly the gear box for the transmission, I also have a problem where my friction wheel is being ruined.
A warranty isn't worth crap when the company that made the unit won't stand behind it.


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## DriverRider (Nov 20, 2016)

Cannot be anything but engine/gearbox (if equipped) oil from a leak above.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

DriverRider said:


> Cannot be anything but engine/gearbox (if equipped) oil from a leak above.


must be you havent read all the posts!  because the mystery of the oil leak has already been solved.
Its excess liquid oil from the wheel axle lube.

Whoever assembled the machine probably used the wrong lube, and squirted in a liquid oil, and too much of it..it should probably be something less liquid, and more of a solid grease..im not sure exactly what is recommended though.

So that one isnt a defect...its just the wrong lube used, and too much lube used.

Scot


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

ewhenn said:


>


The beveled edge on the friction wheel perfectly matches the raised outer edge of the pulley..which means the friction wheel is traveling too close to the edge and rubbing up against the outer edge of the pully..it probably isn't supposed to travel that far.

So that, combined with too much, and too liquid, of an oil being used for the axle lube, both point to: assembly by someone who didn't know what they were doing.

Ive said it before, and I will say it again:  easily 95% of problems with brand-new snowblowers are directly related to poor or incompetent assembly, resulting in things not being adjusted correctly. We usually see it from the Big Boxes, but dealers are not immune.

There was likely absolutely nothing wrong with the machine initially when it came from the factory, and it would have probably functioned flawlessly if it had been properly assembled and adjusted. Every problem you have had can probably be traced to poor assembly and/or poor adjustment, and likely incorrect wheel axle lube.

Scot


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

jmo....but a bit of excess lube around the high wear parts like axle bushings isnt a bad thing if it doesnt get on the disc or plate. read many posts about no lube, or next to no lube from new on some brands . i would question the friction wheel wear on this machine tho. ariens should cover the cost of a replacement and adjustment at zero cost to the op.


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## DriverRider (Nov 20, 2016)

sscotsman said:


> must be you havent read all the posts!  because the mystery of the oil leak has already been solved.
> Its excess liquid oil from the wheel axle lube.


Don't care what the crowd says, I see oil in upper left of picture and after nearly two years and a few usages common sense dictates any excess pre-delivery lube would have hit the deck many moons ago. That oil did not get up there where it was leaking out the right front when the machine was tilted.

However, a somewhat recently done heavy lubing/oiling I could believe.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

My first thought when seeing the puddle of oil was "summer heat caused some something to soften and drip out" ..and the photo clearly shows a drip line of oil coming right out where the axle goes through the side wall, and the drip onto the floor is right under that spot...seems pretty clear that is the source, and the owner of the machine also said it's clear to him that is the source. I think that one is solved.

Scot


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

It looks to me as though it's simply a bad differential seal and it's dumping oil while it runs. They have 2 sets of o-rings on each half. If you get a light in there closely look around the clamping screws of the differential and see if they are weeping. Or, take a good amount of paper towels and wipe the thing off like you were selling it. Then run it around a bit, you'll see some more oil weeping out around the seams somewhere (if there's any left inside:facepalm_zpsdj194qh). I don't buy axle oiling either.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVuRuHGZFeAhttp://


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

nwcove said:


> jmo....but a bit of excess lube around the high wear parts like axle bushings isnt a bad thing if it doesnt get on the disc or plate. read many posts about no lube, or next to no lube from new on some brands .


Yeah, any lube is better than no lube, and "too much" isn't a major concern, although too much can attract excess dirt and grit, which isn't good..

It's possible it was the proper lube, and it melted from summer heat? Maybe..but I'm pretty sure it should be grease, and that shouldn't melt..it seems more likely that the incorrect lube was used.



> i would question the friction wheel wear on this machine tho. ariens should cover the cost of a replacement and adjustment at zero cost to the op.


Agreed.,and I would have them take it to a *different* dealer, I'm not sure I would give the original dealer any more chances...this machine has had three issues that all seem pretty clearly related to incompetent assembly:

1. Some kind of belt misalignment problem.
2. Likely some kind of incorrect lube used.
3. Incorrect adjustment of friction wheel travel, causing the beveled edge wear.

None of these are likely to be factory defects..thousands of identical models don't have these same problems..the conclusion is pretty obvious to me.

Scot


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## DriverRider (Nov 20, 2016)

Did I mention one my former positions was a mechanical claims adjuster for automobile extended warranty policies? Some accepted, some denied.k:


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

jtclays said:


> It looks to me as though it's simply a bad differential seal and it's dumping oil while it runs. They have 2 sets of o-rings on each half. If you get a light in there closely look around the clamping screws of the differential and see if they are weeping. ]


There is something in the differential that physically holds some liquid oil inside of it? I was not aware of that. The differential in my '71 Ariens has no "reservior" of any kind..

Hmm..ok, then that could be a game changer then. I assumed that the source of the leak was confirmed, but perhaps not. It could still just be excess lube from anywhere in the case dripping out, but a potential differential leak is worth looking into.

Scot


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

It's hard to find an actual parts break down for the unit because they are sold as a maintenance free sealed unit. Ariens gets them directly from General Transmissions (DI 300) and simply puts them on. They are a "wet sump" and do contain a lubricant, how wet and how much, don't know.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

well, it seems pretty unlikely that would be source of the drip..possible yes, but unlikely IMO..
for two reasons:

1. There has never been a mention of one of these leaking before.
2. There does seem to be an excess of lube oil inside the unit, which seems more likely to be the source of the drip, IMO..

We will have to wait for another update from ewhenn before we can go any further..

Scot


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Looks like wheel bearing grease was used on those gears. as for lubing chains they have no sling spray chain lube for that app. should of just sprayed everthing with chain lube. that is what I do on " SR" when he gets orenery.:icon_whistling:*


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

sscotsman said:


> 1. There has never been a mention of one of these leaking before.
> Scot


It does seem odd, but the statistics of delivered failures is so low, it makes sense. I find it even more odd is I have never been able to find a video on Youtube of a Toro Snow Max friction problem or repair, or "automatic steering" fix/problem (not the trigger ones) on these and they use the same supplier for the differential. Don't know the production numbers Ariens vs Toro but you would think you would see a couple repairs online.


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