# Toro PowerMax 826 OAHE Weld Joint Rust From Salt



## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Hello,

Just got a PowerMax 826 OAHE (#37802) a couple months ago and am happy with it overall. This is my first time owning a snowblower and have found this community to be a great resource. 

After the last storm, I did the EOD last and just put the blower away. The salt caused some rust on the exposed parts of the bare metal shafts. There was also rust at the weld joints of the auger. 

I called the dealer and they told me it was due to salt and recommended I spray half vinegar and half water on the rust and try and scrub it off lightly. This worked a pretty well. There is still a little bit of rust on the exposed bare metal parts of the shafts. This isn't a big concern since those areas would be expected to rust over time anyway. Whats more concerning is the welded joint areas on the auger. I'm assuming those welds are supposed to be painted AFTER being welded. If they were painted then it must have been a poor paint job from the factory. The salt obviously penetrated what ever paint was on those welds and is using the metal underneath. Had I known this I would have sprayed Rustoleum on there before I started to use it.

After researching on this forum, I have since sprayed Fluid Film on all the rusted areas and will continue to use it from now on. I will also do the EOD first from now on and the clean snow after. I'll also spray it down with water after use, wipe it down, let it dry, and then spray more FF.

My questions are:
1). Is this a defect in the painting process? Would those parts (left and right side augers) be covered under warranty? This seems to be a perfect experiment actually (brand new machine, exposed to salt) and is showing the weak points.

2) I can't easily access the rust in the welded join area (see photos). What would the best product and method be to remove the rust in that area? I'd like to eventually use Rustoleum or whatever product you all recommend in the weld joints to create a barrier against future rust.

3) Apart from the Fluid Film, what product I use on the welded auger joints? I was thinking a rust oleum product but do you guys know of anything better? Is it ok to spray it over the rust (if I am not able to clean off the rust)? Basically just want to create a solid barrier since the factory obviously failed at this.

Thank you all. I really appreciate it.

NOTE: The attached photos are after I scrubbed it with vinegar/water but before I sprayed the FF.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

welcome to the SBF

there's no flaws it's simply how powder coat lays on the surface before getting heated to flow, on the auger shaft that part IS NOT stainless steel it's normal steel. rust is going to happen, there is not much you can do. other than what your dealer told you to do, 
for a side note you should see my toro after 4 years of end of driveway snow and salt mix.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

Continue to use the fluid film as you are. It's good for protection and to slick the surfaces of the augers/housing/impeller and chute. I don't think I would go as far as rinsing it down after each use. I sometimes give a wipe down w/ a rag just to speed the drying process but otherwise let it air dry. If the rust bugs you clean the areas off and paint in or rattle can the areas. The welds are a bit of a concern but otherwise a little surface rust is gonna happen.


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Jatoxico said:


> If the rust bugs you clean the areas off and paint in or rattle can the areas. The welds are a bit of a concern but otherwise a little surface rust is gonna happen.


What is a good tool to get down in that weld joint crevasse? Some kind of pipe cleaner? Something not to rough as to scratch the paint. Or best to just leave as is?

Its ok to just Rustoleum directly over the welds even if they have a bit of rust on them? I'm ok with doing that just wanted to check with you guys.

Thanks


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

captchas said:


> for a side note you should see my toro after 4 years of end of driveway snow and salt mix.


Ha, how bad is it?


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

gosox said:


> What is a good tool to get down in that weld joint crevasse? Some kind of pipe cleaner? Something not to rough as to scratch the paint. Or best to just leave as is?
> 
> Its ok to just Rustoleum directly over the welds even if they have a bit of rust on them? I'm ok with doing that just wanted to check with you guys.
> 
> Thanks


There's a cost/benefit here that only you can determine for yourself. You could pull the augers and media blast them them paint them with Imron whatever. Wayyy overkill but you get me. As I say if the rust on the welds concerns you, as a spring project I would brush them lightly with a wire brush wipe down with spirits or something to degrease and then heavily lay in some paint with a brush. I wouldn't do anything to the shaft except spray with the fluid film. After that just keep after it. An ounce of prevention as the man said.


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

gosox said:


> What is a good tool to get down in that weld joint crevasse? Some kind of pipe cleaner? Something not to rough as to scratch the paint. Or best to just leave as is?
> 
> Its ok to just Rustoleum directly over the welds even if they have a bit of rust on them? I'm ok with doing that just wanted to check with you guys.
> 
> Thanks


You could try to use a tooth brush or small wire brush to scrub area. Looks minor, normal to me, but I did not pay big bucks for new machine.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

At some point a year or two from now you probably will want to pull the augers to grease them. You don't want them rusting on the shaft but that's pretty standard maintenance even if most machines don't get the attention from their owners. Read the manual about greasing pivot points etc.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks to captchas relating his experience with his Toro I applied the following products to my 826 OHAE. 3-4 coats of the Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions over entire machine. The Permatex anti seize applied to bare metal on auger shaft and over gearbox fill plug and its threads. I applied the CRC 3-16 multi lubricant and corrosion inhibitor o er the gearbox housing. 
I did notice a lack of complete paint coverage on welded parts of the auger and I sprayed it with black spray paint I had on hand the day I brought it home. 
I live on a cul de sac and am routinely in the street clearing EOD 4-5 cars wide. My 826 looks brand new. Hats off to captchas


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Zavie said:


> Thanks to captchas relating his experience with his Toro I applied the following products to my 826 OHAE. 3-4 coats of the Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions over entire machine. The Permatex anti seize applied to bare metal on auger shaft and over gearbox fill plug and its threads. I applied the CRC 3-16 multi lubricant and corrosion inhibitor o er the gearbox housing.
> I did notice a lack of complete paint coverage on welded parts of the auger and I sprayed it with black spray paint I had on hand the day I brought it home.
> I live on a cul de sac and am routinely in the street clearing EOD 4-5 cars wide. My 826 looks brand new. Hats off to captchas


This looks like a great prescription. Thanks!


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

My driveway faces south so on a nice sunny day I take a milk container with warm water and rinse the auger housing. I reapply the CRC each time I rinse and out of the 8-10 times I've rinsed I've had to reapply the anti-seize just once.


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Zavie said:


> My driveway faces south so on a nice sunny day I take a milk container with warm water and rinse the auger housing. I reapply the CRC each time I rinse and out of the 8-10 times I've rinsed I've had to reapply the anti-seize just once.


Nice tip! I was thinking of doing something similar. After using the machine, take a spray bottle with warm water and spray down inside the bucket and give it a quick wipe down or just let it air dry. Nothing crazy just a once over to get any leftover salt, etc.


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

Rusting after a few months? Not to be Nelly Negative but it sounds like a design flaw. Everything I ever read on these forums say address rust issues immediately or it will spread like cancer. Even my cheapy Chinese blower took about 7-8 years before rust started to show anywhere.


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Tseg said:


> Rusting after a few months? Not to be Nelly Negative but it sounds like a design flaw. Everything I ever read on these forums say address rust issues immediately or it will spread like cancer. Even my cheapy Chinese blower took about 7-8 years before rust started to show anywhere.


That was my initial instinct as well. I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt that it the salt that did it. Won't make that mistake again.

Its the auger that really gets me. I just chalked it up to Toro being cheap in their painting process: If they spent an extra few seconds painting the welds, then the salt wouldn't have penetrated. 
However, @captchas above mentioned that its just they way they are made. I called toro and the guy on the phone had no clue. The dealer said they are "pained prior to welding". He didn't say if they were painted after welding. If not then that weld is just as prone to rust as the steel auger shaft. 

I'm curious to know if the Hondas and Simplicity's that are 2x and 3x the price are made the same way?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

There was another post recently that had the exact same rust issues on the auger of their new Toro, so it may be a common issue with their new machines or just a bad batch of machines. No one likes seeing rust appear on their new equipment, but the rust on unpainted/powder coated metal (shafts, bushing housings etc) is going to happen on any machine.

The rust on the unpainted welds is poor quality control and shouldn't happen. What do they expect to happen if they paint/powder coat the parts and then weld them and not paint the welds? I doubt you will get this looked after under warranty.

I think Captchas' main rust issue was the unpainted/powder coated welds in the auger housing itself causing rust to get under the powder coating and flake off.

In the spring, I would wire brush the rusted areas and brush on a gloss rust paint like Rustoleum or Tremclad.

FYI, I have a 3 year old Ariens. I have zero rust on any part that is supposed to be painted/powder coated, including the auger rakes (welds are all painted).


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

gosox said:


> I'm curious to know if the Hondas and Simplicity's that are 2x and 3x the price are made the same way?


Here are a couple snaps from my Honda... looks a little different than yours. A number of salty End-of-Driveways plowed.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

I think most, (not me) though lol, would think of the auger like a mower blade on a lawnmower and it's likely that stuff is going to happen to it. So keeping it in like new condition is not a big priority. I think most here on the forum have a greater pride in their machine.


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Tseg said:


> Here are a couple snaps from my Honda... looks a little different than yours. A number of salty End-of-Driveways plowed.


wow, I guess you certainly get what you pay for. I guess $1200 for this toro wasn't enough to get quality rust coating prevention. It never ceases to amaze me the amount of corners that are cut these days.


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Do you guys think I should push the dealer to get new parts (left and right side auger assembly) covered under warranty? 

At least I could start fresh and spray it with rust oleum myself before putting them on.


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

gosox said:


> wow, I guess you certainly get what you pay for. I guess $1200 for this toro wasn't enough to get quality rust coating prevention. It never ceases to amaze me the amount of corners that are cut these days.


With all said, with proper care you should have no issue getting 15-20 years+ out of your machine.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

The machine is going to be fine . . . If you want to take care of the rust, my recommendation would be to apply some 'rust reformer' paint in the weld areas that are rusting. 

Probably Toro is not getting enough paint in where the metal parts join.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

Why Anti Sieze....that stuff is messy, doesn't come off, etc. Repeating the word messy....
I just fluidfilm it pre-season, post-season and if it needs it during season.Cannot get any easier than that and it -rinses clean- if you need it


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

Post #2.....off to do a read. Is there a definitve list on which manuf./models chooses paint vs powdercoat on the buckets/metal pieces vs. paint. I would think economics at play, paint may be more common ?


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Has anyone used "Evapo Rust"? It says you can use it on painted surfaces. I could apply it to the rusted welds, then I'd have a clean surface to put some rusoleum on.









Best Rust Remover | Remove Rust Quickly with Evapo-Rust®


Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover is easy to use, environmentally safe product that removes rust in minutes, without scrubbing.




evapo-rust.com


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

I do nothing to prevent rust on my snowblower because its going to wash off the next time I use it.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

gosox said:


> Has anyone used "Evapo Rust"? It says you can use it on painted surfaces. I could apply it to the rusted welds, then I'd have a clean surface to put some rusoleum on.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've used it with great results. It will work in between joints and get rid of the rust.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

mobiledynamics said:


> Why Anti Sieze....that stuff is messy, doesn't come off, etc. Repeating the word messy....


Exactly! It provides more than enough protection for the exposed shaft areas.
Using the brush applicator in the container limits the amount and the mess. Plus I had some on hand, lol.


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Zavie said:


> I've used it with great results. It will work in between joints and get rid of the rust.


OK awesome. A spring project perhaps. Do you know of any video that shows how to take the auger apart? I found this sketch on the toro website. Is it as simple as removing the bolts (circled in red) and pulling the whole thing out? Or is there anything else I need to access that the 'front to back shaft' (blue arrow) connects to?

I haven't been able to find a video like that for this model.

Thanks!


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

the biggest issue in how the robots spray both the paint and powder they don't get it in under the warped seams of the metal between the welds .

moving this thread to thr toro area


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

gosox said:


> OK awesome. A spring project perhaps. Do you know of any video that shows how to take the auger apart? I found this sketch on the toro website. Is it as simple as removing the bolts (circled in red) and pulling the whole thing out? Or is there anything else I need to access that the 'front to back shaft' (blue arrow) connects to?
> 
> I haven't been able to find a video like that for this model.
> 
> Thanks!



...actually, if I just take bolts #11 out, the augers will spin freely, correct? This way I'll be able to get easier access to all the joints and not have to take the whole thing apart? Thanks!


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## Pete826 (Dec 1, 2020)

That’s why they make fluid film🙂


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

if you want to do it right you have to split the machine remove the 4 bolts holding the side bearings so the assembly slides/lifts out


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Pete826 said:


> That’s why they make fluid film🙂


Will FF remove the rust on the welds though? I thought it was more of a preventive coating. I was going to try the 'evapo rust' to get that rust off then spray some rust paint on them.


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

I thoroughly fresh water wash my Ariens 28 Pro after every use. Purchased in March 2018 and it looks like brand new today. If I had a new Toro I would be very concerned about their safety recall of almost 7,000 Power Max Snowthrowers instead of salt caused rust.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

naval jelly it if u want. sand it if u want. throw some rustoleum black easily obtained from the local big box store...

what's to say if the dealer did replace it under warranty, no scratches to the bucket, etc may incur due to disassembly, reassembly.

It's a easy fix that if it was one, I'd rather DIY than even asking the dealer and then having a teardown -if- they actually even warranted it.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

gosox said:


> Do you guys think I should push the dealer to get new parts (left and right side auger assembly) covered under warranty?


Only if you like being laughed at. Seriously, this is a wear issue and you would have a hard time convincing anyone it should be covered by the warranty.

Today our road departments sprinkle salt as well as brine mixed with a sugar solution to make it stickier. Some municipalities add other ('hotter')chemicals to help melt the snow faster. This is mixed in your EOD crud thrown there by the snowplow. I remember driving east on I80 across PA years ago to visit my folks. Most of the 8 to 12 hour trip back then was on hard packed snow. Today, you would be hard pressed to find any snow on the road surface, though it will look white from all the salt laid down. Any mechanic will tell you cars rust faster today than they used to - because of all the salt we use.

Back to your rust. I suggest you let your snowblower get a light coating of rust. Spray the rusting areas with brake or carb cleaner and apply Loctite Extend. This forms a hard surface that resists rust. You can then touch up the black surfaces with paint. The rust won't come back for years. I used this stuff on a box van's step bumper when it started rusting. No more rust on the 'Extend'ed' surface, and I did not paint on top. The bumper was exposed to weather year round.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

mobiledynamics said:


> naval jelly it if u want. sand it if u want. throw some rustoleum black easily obtained from the local big box store...
> 
> what's to say if the dealer did replace it under warranty, no scratches to the bucket, etc may incur due to disassembly, reassembly.
> 
> It's a easy fix that if it was one, I'd rather DIY than even asking the dealer and then having a teardown -if- they actually even warranted it.


 when i raised the rust issue on my own the first spring , they wouldn't do anything, they called it a outside influence caused problem, the influence? road salt


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

if they have salted the streets before i blow the snow i cut a path to the street and clear the eod and mailbox area first.
Then I do the driveway and lastly the walkway.
By doing it this way any salt that would have been picked up at the street can hopefully driven out by the rest of the snow that i have to blow. Our driveway is 90 feet long so i will be putting a lot of snow through the blower after clearing the eod and mailbox. 12 years after rebuilding and repainting my blower the only rust is on the edges of the auger where the paint has been worn off.


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## Newbie 5 (Dec 19, 2020)

Rust-oleum makes a product called rust converter. Spray it on an let it do it's thing. Finish paint after. I have used it on patio furniture. Seems to work as stated.


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## dcinma (Dec 13, 2017)

Same problem on my new 8/24 OE that I mentioned in another thread. Just sprayed Fluid Film for the first time, boy that stuff does smell like a sheep until it dries.
Hint using Fluid Film spray cans.
I noticed even without the straw attached it comes out of the can in a stream and way too fast. I found a nozzle of off something else that resulted in a slower broader spray.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

gosox said:


> Hello,
> 
> Just got a PowerMax 826 OAHE (#37802) a couple months ago and am happy with it overall. This is my first time owning a snowblower and have found this community to be a great resource.
> 
> ...


Welcome to the Snowblower Forum!
When I was a kid, we used to put a small rope on the axles of our bicycles.
It would keep the axle clean as it was difficult to reach in between the spokes to polish it.
The rope riding on the axle kept it clean.
Put a couple small ropes (sometimes you could buy ones made out of leather with a reflector on it) around those augur shaft gaps and it'll shine them up like new with little effort on your part.
#OldSchool.


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

These are all great tips, guys. I really appreciate it! 

I was reading about 'Evapo Rust' and one thing I read said:

"*Does Evapo-Rust harm paint?*
No, painted surfaces are not a problem. Just avoid paints with oxides."


Does the paint on snowblowers contain oxides?

The course of action I am thinking about now is to use the 'evapo rust' to remove as much rust as I can from the welds. Then use the 'loc-tite extend' plus some rust paint....If all the rust looks to be removed then I guess I could skip the 'loc-tite extend'.

I'm probably just going to do remove the sheer bots so I can spin the auger around. I know splitting it in two and fully removing it would be the best way but I'd like to see how far this gets me. 

I also see that the best way to use evapo-rust is to submerge the item. I'm not going to be able to do that here so I'll have to see how much I can get off by just spraying it or surrounding it with rags or something. I'm hoping that since this is brand new and literally just happened that its just surface rust and will come off easily. 

Definitely didn't expect to have to do this for a brand new machine but hey live and learn I guess!


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

gosox said:


> These are all great tips, guys. I really appreciate it!
> 
> I was reading about 'Evapo Rust' and one thing I read said:
> 
> ...


Not sure about the oxides in paint. You could call the paint mfr and ask them, but I doubt you would find out from Honda.
Evapo rust is, I think, a phosphoric acid based rust treatment. Better check that, its been years since i looked. A steel surface treated with the ER* will rust again when exposed to water and air. Extend requires some rust to work, so you cannot use both chemicals. Pick one and stick with it. Better yet, use one on half and the second on the other half. See which lasts longer.

*I might be confusing my experience with Naval Jelly with Evapo Rust. I did buy the latter and try it out, but ended up throwing half away because I did not use it all.


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## LouC (Dec 5, 2016)

with most rust problems I've had on my old inboard boat engine I've used brush on Rustoleum primer and Rustoleum paint on both steel and cast iron. These engines are in a constantly damp environment and moist salt air and this works. Spray paint is a waste of time too thin cover well. I remove as much rust as I can, use a rust converter first, then prime and paint, and it holds up for a long time. Especially on intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds and exhaust elbows. So on a snow blower I'd probably do the same. My old Toro has hardly any rust anywhere.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

gosox said:


> Hello,
> 
> Just got a PowerMax 826 OAHE (#37802) a couple months ago and am happy with it overall. This is my first time owning a snowblower and have found this community to be a great resource.
> 
> ...




This thread from a few days ago shows the same rust issues you are experiencing.









Toro 1030HD rusting prematurely


Hello. Just bought my 1030HD new this past October and have used it about 5 times. I used fluid film on the auger, impeller and chute before using it and have noticed rust on the auger. Is this typical? On a side note, the stock metal skid shoes kept Jerking the blower everytime I hit ice so...




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

gosox said:


> Ha, how bad is it?


bad, sadly i didn't take any of the pits in the auger shaft


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

captchas said:


> bad, sadly i didn't take any of the pits in the auger shaft


So what would the fix be for that? media blast it and start over basically?


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

acid tank dip first to remove the rust from where the blaster can't reach than media blast than a dip in the galvanizing tank of the local chrome shop this spring packing the seams with the black metal powder marine tex epoxy , before repainting with urethane aircraft paint . 

i know some of the members will say why not jb marine weld, or what ever. remember i just sold a large boat ,i kept the several cans of marine tex we kept on board , why buy when you have in stock,


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

captchas said:


> acid tank dip first to remove the rust from where the blaster can't reach than media blast than a dip in the galvanizing tank of the local chrome shop this spring packing the seams with the black metal powder marine tex epoxy , before repainting with urethane aircraft paint .
> 
> i know some of the members will say why not jb marine weld, or what ever. remember i just sold a large boat ,i kept the several cans of marine tex we kept on board , why buy when you have in stock,


nice, well it should last a long time after that. What does the media blasting and galv dip cost for something of that size?


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Nice sunny day here. Tipped my 826 back to check underneath and it looks brand new. Never rinsed or washed off the underside so the Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions must be helping. I ran my hand along the bottom and it's very slippery so I'm not sure what would be able to stick to it's slick surface.
@gosox I had an extra pair of the Ariens poly skids and they fit perfect. I had the 2 part metal and poly skid shoes that allows you to use the original Toro mounting hardware.


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## gosox (Feb 19, 2021)

Zavie said:


> Nice sunny day here. Tipped my 826 back to check underneath and it looks brand new. Never rinsed or washed off the underside so the Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions must be helping. I ran my hand along the bottom and it's very slippery so I'm not sure what would be able to stick to it's slick surface.
> @gosox I had an extra pair of the Ariens poly skids and they fit perfect. I had the 2 part metal and poly skid shoes that allows you to use the original Toro mounting hardware.


Nice, yeah I want to swap mine out and be free of the rust stains on the floor. Why don't they just come that way from the factory? Would save people the hassle of rust and having to swap them out.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Some folks like the steel shoes because they last longer and require fewer height adjustments than the poly skids.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

Looking at your pictures that little bit of rust doesn't warrant extreme measures and IMO the remedy here seems simple. Brush and clean the rusted area around the welds and hand lay a nice thick layer of some black enamel in there. Regularly use fluid film/silicone or other rust inhibitor elsewhere. I know you want to keep it looking as new as possible but its still OPE and you can't avoid all cosmetic blemishes.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

cost wise sorry i don't know, i have had a whole ford model a car media blasted for a grand acid dipped for about the same, advantage of the dip is it gets in the seams and melts it away, disadvantage is you need to flush it a lot after even thou they re dip in a neutralizing tank after , thats why i plan on both ways, 
toro stock stamped skid shoes are the pits , soft wear out fast, make rust spots on the garage floor. mine lasted 1 season on both sides, i swapped for the toro cast iron skids 3rd winter they still look great never adjusted, easy to turn the machine or direct it. that's a each to his own subject another why do they not put them on every machine not just the high end models 

maybe what i plan is way over board just this is going to be a one time deal for me. plus i did the big bore on my motor so it's not a 265 cc it's a 302 cc .block. piston,rings and cam from a 38802 on a 38801


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## aj-allen (Oct 18, 2013)

Rustoleum makes a special paint that eats rust I would just use that and forget it! I used it on a repair on the belt guard of my chipper no rust has returned.


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## Pete826 (Dec 1, 2020)

Mine is 3 years old looks new. 3 coats meguiars ceramics wax, fluid film, bike spirts wipe down after each use. “just like be true to your teeth they will never be false to you”


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## BrooklynDaddy (Apr 28, 2016)

I'm late to the party - I had a similar issue with my Toro Powermax 826 - also a rusting issue - I took the snow blower apart - this post detailed what I did to remove the rust - and re-paint the machine - Toro Powermax Rusted shaft, impeller - add zerk fitting ? | Snowblower Forum


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