# Need help with 25 year old HS828 (tracked)



## lnh (Mar 17, 2019)

I have had this machine for 25 years and have had regular maintenance done along with the occasional repair (hold down to chute broke; a track problem; and auger/drive interlock failing to lock). My local dealer has suggested that I might have a problem with some bearing that is behind the impeller and that it might be a fairly expensive job ($400 - $500 which includes parts and about 3 hours of labor). They said the test is to grab hold of the shaft going through the impeller to the gearbox. If there is slop in that connection it most likely mean this bearing needs replacement. When I grab that rod, I can rock the gearbox just a tiny amount. They said the problem is not in the gearbox and that you have to separate the bucket from the rest of the machine to get where the probable problem is located.

In use blowing snow it seems like everything is moving as it should using a spotter in front watching both the auger and impeller. The only problem I've seen is more constant clogging with the ever more frequent wet snowfalls we've gotten the past couple years, but even then it appears everything is rotating as expected. I'm pretty handy, but haven't done any serious maintenance on this machine and don't have any special tools which might be required. I've looked at the parts diagrams on the Honda website, but can't identify the likely parts needed (HS828 SZAK-200XXXX serial number range). Can someone help me identify the likely part(s) needed, and how difficult is this repair? The alternative is to buy a new machine and I really don't want to sink $500 into a 25 year old snowblower.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

lnh said:


> I have had this machine for 25 years and have had regular maintenance done along with the occasional repair (hold down to chute broke; a track problem; and auger/drive interlock failing to lock). My local dealer has suggested that I might have a problem with some bearing that is behind the impeller and that it might be a fairly expensive job ($400 - $500 which includes parts and about 3 hours of labor). They said the test is to grab hold of the shaft going through the impeller to the gearbox. If there is slop in that connection it most likely mean this bearing needs replacement. When I grab that rod, I can rock the gearbox just a tiny amount. They said the problem is not in the gearbox and that you have to separate the bucket from the rest of the machine to get where the probable problem is located.
> 
> In use blowing snow it seems like everything is moving as it should using a spotter in front watching both the auger and impeller. The only problem I've seen is more constant clogging with the ever more frequent wet snowfalls we've gotten the past couple years, but even then it appears everything is rotating as expected. I'm pretty handy, but haven't done any serious maintenance on this machine and don't have any special tools which might be required. I've looked at the parts diagrams on the Honda website, but can't identify the likely parts needed (HS828 SZAK-200XXXX serial number range). Can someone help me identify the likely part(s) needed, and how difficult is this repair? The alternative is to buy a new machine and I really don't want to sink $500 into a 25 year old snowblower.


if they are speaking of the impeller bearing replacing for 400-500 bucks. that's OUTRAGEOUS!

if you haven't had that done in 25 years .....yes it's due. around here the labor charge is about 1 hour or so . the bearing is $17. most places charge $125 for that. you also should service the augers with anti seize grease and inspect side bearings where the augers connect to housing.

it is really not that difficult if you have basic mechanical skill. there is a pretty good video on you tube for removing bucket on a HONDA HS55. Same as this .

if you haven't replaced belts in 25 years you should do that also. maybe scarper bar also when you take bucket off.

I would remove augers and impeller first. a 14mm and 10mm wrench to remove impeller shear pin. the 3 10mm bolts on each side of housing and the 12mm bolt on each side. pull augers out. 10-15 minutes tops.

To remove bucket is fairly easy also. remove the chute adjustment  handle on bucket . then the bucket is held on by 10 12mm head bolts. no special tools are needed.

If you were close by I would do it for a case of Corona plus parts. You-tube video is pretty good. many people have done this with tips from members here.

maybe that $400-500 quote was for all 3 bearings, new shears , new belts , new scraper bar and then a general service to the machine . That sounds pretty close then . $500 sounds like a lot but for a 25 year old machine if none of this work has been done that is $20 a year.

compare that to a new $3000 machine.

The only other thing I would worry about with a 25 year old 828 is the right side transmission gear box. If the tracks are running smoothly I would insert a grease fitting in that gear case and pump some grease in there. if the pin inside breaks or a gear chips a tooth you are looking at another $350-500 ( around here ) for parts and labor.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Your best bet is to take the gearbox apart and clean out all of the old grease, then add fresh grease that you know what kind it is.
A lot of tractor transmissions use "Bentonite" grease, it is a very durable grease that withstands extreme temps and pressure, but it is a "Clay Based" grease. It doesn't mix with other types of grease, like "Lithium Based" or "Soap Based". It will actually separate. 
Bentonite grease doesn't mix with water, so if it is subjected to wet environments like a snowblower, it will not be affected by water or moisture like other greases would.
Water will cause other greases to break down, but not Bentonite grease.
A lot of snowblower manufacturers use Bentonite grease in their transmissions.
Honda doesn't want the general public to know what kind of grease they put in it from the factory.
It will still lubricate, but it doesn't want to "Mix" with other types of grease bases.
It is kind of like mixing gasoline and diesel fuel, it will form a "Mixture" but it will "Separate".
Honda did not put much grease in the right side gearbox from the factory, they put the bare minimum in it, so it would be a good idea to 
clean all the old grease out and pack it with new grease, but don't put too much in it, otherwise you could develop a slight bit of leakage around an axle seal if it gets hot and builds up pressure, but a little extra grease wont hurt it from what is in it now, at least you will have the "piece of mind" that you have enough grease in it to lube the gears and bearings.
Tecumseh/Peerless transmission grease is Bentonite grease. It is hard to find but some power equipment shops might have it or be able to get it. It comes in a quart bottle. It is a bit expensive but it usually lasts the lifetime of the machinery that it is installed in, so you don't have to change it once it is in.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Changing the main bearing shouldnt be a $500 job, I own two small businesses and understand overheads but this is outrageous. At best its a job that shouldnt take more than an hour. If someone was timing a seasoned pro then it should take half of that, buy the bearing and belts yourself and make this a weekend job, if you run into any hick ups then you have our help here on SBF.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JnC said:


> Changing the main bearing shouldnt be a $500 job, I own two small businesses and understand overheads but this is outrageous. At best its a job that shouldnt take more than an hour. If someone was timing a seasoned pro then it should take half of that, buy the bearing and belts yourself and make this a weekend job, if you run into any hick ups then you have our help here on SBF.


ya, he never came back here to report. I'm thinking the quote he got was probably for a lot more......a full service, maybe a couple cables and other parts etc. I have done this job for people many times and only charge about $85 plus parts.( found out the other shops in the area charge $125 ) Sometimes it takes an hour sometimes less. But I also inspect the whole machine and lubricate, make adjustments etc so they won't have more problems down the road.

as long as I can have my Corona and listen to tunes.


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## lnh (Mar 17, 2019)

orangputeh said:


> ya, he never came back here to report. I'm thinking the quote he got was probably for a lot more......a full service, maybe a couple cables and other parts etc. I have done this job for people many times and only charge about $85 plus parts.( found out the other shops in the area charge $125 ) Sometimes it takes an hour sometimes less. But I also inspect the whole machine and lubricate, make adjustments etc so they won't have more problems down the road.
> 
> as long as I can have my Corona and listen to tunes.


Have been diverted by other things, but still interested in doing the work. First things first... I'm assuming this is the right part (#12) that needs replacement (from the parts diagram on the Honda website for my model/serial number). Just want confirmation before ordering (I'll also do the belts once I see their condition).


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

lnh said:


> Have been diverted by other things, but still interested in doing the work. First things first... I'm assuming this is the right part (#12) that needs replacement (from the parts diagram on the Honda website for my model/serial number). Just want confirmation before ordering (I'll also do the belts once I see their condition).


get the parts ( belts ) from boats.net and save 30 %.

the bearing is a #6004 and does not necessarily need to be Honda. maybe already mentioned but since this is offseason I would take the augers and impeller out and service them also. take them apart and clean shafts and apply anti seize grease. also apply anti seize grease on auger pulley wheel shaft . replace shear pins. inspect side bearings #6203 ( they are most likely fine. )

maybe install an impeller kit with impeller out to get more throwing power. inspect scraper bar for excess wear and adjust and skid shoes. this is the business end of your Honda so I highly recommend you do all this to avoid problems down the road.

good luck and check back if you need any help/advice.


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## Honda1132 (Sep 2, 2016)

A quick question on this bearing replacement - would the smell of a burning belt be a symptom of a bad ( or starting to go bad) bearing?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Honda1132 said:


> A quick question on this bearing replacement - would the smell of a burning belt be a symptom of a bad ( or starting to go bad) bearing?


perhaps. it would be fairly easy to check if you take the belt cover off and manually turn the belt ( pull boot off plug for safety ) and wiggle the pulley wheel to see play. you can check many things with belt cover off . idler wheels, belts , see how loose belt is , etc. 

how old is your machine? I have seen many Honda's 15-20-25 years old with the original impeller bearing. but anytime I have to remove bucket to replace auger belt i automatically replace that bearing.


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## Honda1132 (Sep 2, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> perhaps. it would be fairly easy to check if you take the belt cover off and manually turn the belt ( pull boot off plug for safety ) and wiggle the pulley wheel to see play. you can check many things with belt cover off . idler wheels, belts , see how loose belt is , etc.
> 
> how old is your machine? I have seen many Honda's 15-20-25 years old with the original impeller bearing. but anytime I have to remove bucket to replace auger belt i automatically replace that bearing.


I purchased it used in the spring of 2007. I am going to send the serial number to Honda Canada to get the exact age. I estimate it is at least 14 years old.

The pulley wheel I wiggle is large diameter one on the bucket, correct? I want to check the augers this summer as well to make sure they are not seized on the shaft.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Honda1132 said:


> I purchased it used in the spring of 2007. I am going to send the serial number to Honda Canada to get the exact age. I estimate it is at least 14 years old.
> 
> The pulley wheel I wiggle is large diameter one on the bucket, correct? I want to check the augers this summer as well to make sure they are not seized on the shaft.


yes. that pulley wheel. however wiggling it or the impeller to see if there is any play is not a surefire test of bearing condition. I have tried that and then taken off bucket and the bearing race is welded onto the pulley shaft. you may as well remove the augers and impeller first and then take off bucket to replace bearing and belt if it has been burning. or is it the drive belt? you'll have to take the belt cover off for a look see.

plus , it is easier to put bucket back on without the added weight of the augers/impeller. 

if you havent done it before there is a pretty good video on you-tube on how to replace auger belt on a honda HS55. pretty much the same deal.


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## Honda1132 (Sep 2, 2016)

Thanks, it is going to be a neat summer project.


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