# 936e wants to take off.. in gear no hand grip needed?



## bullgod (Sep 4, 2015)

i replaced both belts took it out to run some starts...tighten the auger pulley alittle for auger...its slotted..... I have the cables backed off so more thread is after the adjustment ? im not at the end of adjustment on cable and have both backed off to at least half... if not 3 /4 of it.. this took off in gear with no hand grip need .still to tight? husqvarna


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

926 what?? Brand?


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## bullgod (Sep 4, 2015)

cleanning a mouse nest out, i do have the bottom pan off for the momment...could this be the cause ? 926e husqvarna


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

its in the husqvarna forum so its a husqvarna


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

A mouse nest could be tangling up the return mechanism. Sounds like the drive cable isn't returning completely to the free spot after you let go.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

You either have the wrong belt(s), routed them incorrectly or have an idler that's stuck in it's engaged position and not backing off.
The belt should be a little loose when you don't have the handle pulled in, down ....


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I don't know how that Husqvarna is, but a lot of blowers keep the belt tight all the time and engage and release the friction drive. Is yours hydrostatic or friction drive?


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## bullgod (Sep 4, 2015)

friction drive ..rubber wheel worked great before...but i put on new belts . maybe cable still to loose ...try that today...dont have to hold the handle down/in tto make it go---just in gear on control panell she will take off... dont see how i have the belts two pulleys for the auger...two pulleys for the drive ...skinny belt goes on the drive...fatter belt the pulley for auger


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

The platter that friction wheel touches should have a spring pulling it away from the friction wheel (rubber wheel) at rest like Shryp mentioned. If you have the belly pan off you can actually pull up on the platter and it should go back down by itself.
Does the drive lever cable have any slack with the lever up? If it's tight, you need to back down the cable adjuster at the top or pic a higher loop hole in the bracket below near the tractor body. Don't know how yours is setup, but you mention cables, so guessing you don't have metal rods from handlebar to tractor. Here's video describing the opposite problem you have, but should give you some idea what I'm trying to say.





Here's another if you have the adjustments at the bottom


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I remember working on a newer Craftsman that actually had the drive idler controlled by the handlebar lever to engage the drive belt. The drive pulley and platter were static, and the belt would go loose at rest, tight when the idler arm engaged it. Essentially the friction wheel was always in contact with the platter. If I remember right the friction wheel assembly had a bracket on the left side that a bolt could be loosed on the left tractor body to allow the friction wheel assembly to pivot a bit. Very different than old Ariens setups. If yours is setup like this did you route the new drive belt correctly, INSIDE the idler and INSIDE the belt keeper around the engine PTO? 
A static drive disc with a idler engagement of the drive.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Shryp said:


> I don't know how that Husqvarna is, but a lot of blowers keep the belt tight all the time and engage and release the friction drive. Is yours hydrostatic or friction drive?


My mistake. I didn't look up his blower, my Troy is like that. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


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## bullgod (Sep 4, 2015)

thank you thank you...after not able to find parts for this its returned ......to the one i bought it from...he can bang his head against a rock...lol one thing if i ran snow thru it and died...no longer a husky owner


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