# JD 826 80's era



## darksaber

Hello, new to the forum. Been doing a lot of reading here on snowblowers as we are in the market. Just moved to a new house where we actually have to do our own snow removal. Was looking at a Toro 724 but found someone selling a couple 80's era JD 826's. From my reading, these were actually build by JD.

They look in pretty decent shape. They have had carbs cleaned and carb kits installed with engine tune ups.
With electric start he is asking $475 for a slightly newer one and $450 for the older. They both run great.
Would this be a good deal or are they overpriced?
I am in the Minneapolis, MN area.

Thanks!

Pics are attached.


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## UNDERTAKER

ALOHA to the forms..  some of the other guys know more about those machines then I do.


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## Hkellogg

250 max on either one is my opinion


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## detdrbuzzard

hello darksaber, welcome to *SBF*


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## liftoff1967

Welcome to the Forum. Don't know much about JD in snow removal. I do have a JD lawn tractor. That is a 15 year old rig and works great. 

Not sure where in MPLS you are, but if you are near a MN Equipment Solutions (they have 3 or 4 places around the metro) might be worth a stop in and pick their brain's on whatever era rig those are.


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## darksaber

Thanks for the information guys! I'll call MN Equipment Solutions and see what they think or if they have any that have gone through there.
I figured $400+ was a little steep. Might have to wait and see what else comes around.


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## GustoGuy

Nice machines however due to their age they are worth $250 apiece Max.


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## jtclays

Darksaber, Don't write them off just yet. I have an 826 that I got for $100 and refurbished. It is an absolute tank and will go through anything. I wouldn't sell mine for less than $400, however that is a little steep for off season pricing, IMO. They are super simple to work on. No cables (unless you count the throttle cable), all steel rods run the tractor and auger engagements. Things to look for that would kill the deal. On the left side (as you run the machine) wheel there should be a really big wingnut. This is what makes it run as two drive wheels or one. Loosen it and it runs one, tighten it up, and it runs both with a differential inside the tractor body. (If this was properly maintained). If it's rusted up, it will always be locked into one mode or the other. You can easily tell by running them around and trying to turn if it works. It's very obvious when the two are locked and unlocked.
Lock it in on EOD and it just keeps grinding. If you pull the bottom cover you will see the differential on the axle shaft in the left side.
Mine is an '89 and had flappers on top of the hand grips that were linked to the kill switch/ignition. I removed the right side and grounded the wire to the handlebars.
Another wear item to check for is pull the belt cover, look at the auger drive pulley and notice a black arm pivoting from the left side of the bucket. It Should have a wedge shaped rubber piece on the bottom right side that rides in the auger drive pulley. This is the auger brake assembly which is NLA. The way the system works, when you engage the auger drive from the dash, the idler pulley arm moves left and engages the belts.
At the same time, part of the idler engages under the brake arm pushing it away from the auger drive pulley. Over time, this engagement point can wear a slot in the brake arm and cause hangups trying to disengage the auger. I needed to weld a small piece of small flat stock onto the bracket to eliminate the quirk hopefully for another 25 years. If you want and have the time, go look at a couple $1200+ machines and pull the handles side to side, grab hold of the bucket sides and pull side to side hard. Do the same to the auger blades. Then go look at the Deeres and do the same. You will see what I'm talking about. I've worked on neighbors blowers from Craftsman, MTD, Troybilt and even a few newer Ariens. I could easily pick up the entire auger assembly with impeller with one hand when removed from the bucket. You will not be able to do that on the Deeres. I'm obviously biased here, but with good reason. That being said, if you're not handy or inclined to cross reference some parts, they may not be the blowers for you. Many parts are no longer available and would require used. John Deere dealers, at least around here, care very little about homeowner equipment this old. Many around here barely have someone as old as the machine at the parts counter. Also wobble the augers and make sure they are free on the shaft. Things I'd use as bargaining chips would be the Tecumseh engine, very easy to swap, but a liability especially at that age and unknown care. Tires, unless you want to run chains. Also check the fuel line. PIA to replace and likely needs it as it runs right along the back of the cylinder. Look at the condition of the starter rope. Properly set up and clean carb, should start one pull with 2 pumps on the primer and choke on. MAke sure they run nice with the choke completely off. Mine does and has for 4 years now. About a half second touch on the electric starter which I only test once a season. Also, regardless of condition, the one with chrome handlebars is the older one. If you do end up getting one let me know I have a PDF copy of the owners manual I can send you.
You can look at parts and availability here (type in 826).
John Deere - Parts Catalog


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## Geno

*JD..*

The 80's Deere's are big solid machine (like JT said) and you'd appreciate that. extra weight is actually a advantage in snow blowers as helps keep front from riding up- minimal but helps. One thing to take note- not all early deeres were made by Deere. I know in a time period Ariens made some and to be honest I think maybe another company besides Deere. I don't know the years for who or when though. Scot may know? That said I have had several and they are good. The 'wing nut' JT was talking about can be worked on to function again but rust can be like weld sometime. If I recall their is a friction disk in their similar to in a trans disk (only very small) and the wing nut allows that to slip or lock pending on tightness. That little disk may not be available? but guess that could be made too if not. Still far better than the mtd stuff new. I'd go as said 250 now.. 325-350 in fall. I paid 300 once for 80's Ariens once and couldn't have been happier.


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## darksaber

Thanks for the information guys. The older unit sold last night, so that leaves the more expensive unit. 
I'm still debating but I may pass as he is way overpriced and I am not as mechanically inclined as I probably should be for a unit this old. I can take a carb apart but that's about it.
He has an ariens 926LE for sale as well that he is going to send the info for.
Thanks again!


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