# Need Help Finding Info for Craftsman Snow Blower



## Bash Rip Rock

Hey there. Brand new to this forum. I was given a Craftsman II 5/23 Snow Blower today. The guy that gave it to me knows nothing about it. One of those things he traded for something else kind of deals. I can't seem to find any accurate information. I checked on sears parts direct or whatever their website is and I clicked on owners manual and it comes up for something different. The one I have has a Model#536-886520 and Code#9228. It has an 8hp Tecumseh, 120-volt electric start, 10" impeller, tire chains, 6 Forward Gears and 2 Reverse, and manual spout adjustment. I really want to know what year this was and even the model of the engine so I can look for parts if I need to. Also, is this a decent unit or going to be a money pit? It runs fine right now. Tried it out today. Going back over possibly Monday to pick it up. Thanks in advance. If more information is needed please let me know. Have a great evening. I have pictures of it, but it looks like I am not allowed to post.


----------



## crazzywolfie

i don't know if the craftsman 5/23 i got is the same as the one you got but i do got to say i like it but it has always seemed under powered with the 5hp engine. the engine works hard and can bog right down without stalling but it just doesn't have enough power to keep throwing snow far all the time. even with the engine running at 37-3800rpm it still bogs down. i don't know where i read it but i think i read 5hp engines tend to be under and that the 5.5's and and up seemed to be better but i guess you could always do an engine swap. other than the engine being under powered i love the snowblower itself. it might end up getting an engine swap eventually to solve the power issue.


----------



## Grunt

Hello and welcome to SBF Bash. Below are the snowblower and engine repair manual links. Your Tecumseh model number is stamped into the shroud just in front of the spark plug and under the electric start push button (remove the two screws to read). You need those numbers to find/order parts. 

Snowblower parts list-
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/536886520/0247/1507200.html

Tecumseh engine service manual-

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


----------



## JLawrence08648

8hp? 5/23 means 5hp 23" wide, your model number at SearsPartsDirect corresponds to a 11hp 31" wide.

Should I say something is not right.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to SBF Bash Rip Rock
You are allowed to post photos from the get go.

536-886520 is coming up as a 523 when I search. It might be someone replaced the 5hp with an 8. That would make finding the all pretty difficult as Sears doesn't keep any record. Normally the engine if original will give you a 2 year window of when the machine was built.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

*ALOHA From The Paradise City. :smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027:*


----------



## vinnycom

most techumseh motors u will find parts for, espicially the carb which should be cleaned.
most older sb parts are available even if u cant find the actual model number, just match up with pics or bring the part with u to match it up. the most expensive part would be the auger gear box, manually spin the impeller shaft and check for noise and excessive play.
check impeller bearing, auger shaft bearing, belt pulley bearings, rubber drive disc.
if motor starts and stays reved at full throttle then make sure forward and reverse works when applying pressure at the wheels.
donyboy has a good youtube video on buying used sb and tells u what to look for


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Hey, everyone. I want to first Thank everyone for the information and input. I also want to apologize for the extreme delay. Life just got in the way. I have the snowblower now at the house. There is some hardware missing but nothing serious in that regard. I have all the stuff here to replace that. I have 2 issues. The engine starts fine on the electric start. When it does this thing runs to max RPM instantly. I have a throttle lever but it seems to do nothing. My guess there is a governor on this thing? If so why is it winding up so fast on startup? My push mower does the same thing but I know what it's doing. I'm a little confused. The other issue is the self-propelled feature. No, go!. I push the lever down and nothing happens. No change in engine RPMs or anything. I took off the shield/cover where the belts are located. They are in bad shape. So I will be replacing those. The auger turns just fine and engages when you push the lever. (you can see the belt "tension" change so the auger turns) Unfortunately, the self-propelled feature does not work. The belt is turning and it looks like it is "engaging" but nothing happens. Is this a belt issue or something much more serious? I am all ears so please let me know. I have a new muffler and gasket on order. I need a new carb cover bracket and some miscellaneous hardware. It looks like I can attach pictures now so I will post as many as I can. I am a brand new snowblower owner. I am ready to drink up all the knowledge you all are ready to share. I have a little time. It doesn't usually snow here in Ohio until November or December. Thanks again, everyone. I truly appreciate it. Be safe. Have a great evening wherever you are!
Sorry for some pics being rotated. They are ok on my computer but somewhere, somehow they were rotated.


----------



## vinnycom

take the bottom pan out, engage the drive lever and see if rubber ringed disc comes in contact to a solid flat metal disc. take some pics


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Thanks, Vinny. I will do that. Not sure if I will get to it today(Thursday) Friday or this weekend. I will take plenty of pics. I appreciate the information. Thanks!


----------



## vinnycom

you can watch my vids on my drive shaft repair,in my sig, shows the inside of the beast. plenty of utube vids on how 2 stage sb move and to repair.
most if not all the older machines use the same basic principle of a rubber friction disc coming into contact w/a solid metal disc to get the drive shaft to turn. simple mechanics


----------



## Grunt

The Sears engine number 143.804072 is actually a Tecumseh motor HS50-67309J and this number is used for looking up engine parts.


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Hey there, Vinny. I understand that I can find stuff on YouTube. Where specifically can I view your repair video. I couldn't make sense of your post. I apologize if I didn't understand something properly. I sure appreciate all the help. Thanks again.


----------



## vinnycom

Bash Rip Rock said:


> Hey there, Vinny. I understand that I can find stuff on YouTube. Where specifically can I view your repair video. I couldn't make sense of your post. I apologize if I didn't understand something properly. I sure appreciate all the help. Thanks again.


sig=signature=footer of posts. 
if on pc theyre visible, not on mobile browsers though or apps afaik.
heres the 2 vids i was talking about


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Thanks for the videos. Glad to see I'm not the only one with that kind of luck. I was wondering if there were bushings in there for the shaft to rotate on. Are the bushings on that bronze or mild steel? The reason I ask that question is I have found over the years the tolerances on bushings are getting less and less. Most of them are mass produced and the quality control is not very good. Almost every bushing I come in contact with I will run a drill bit the correct size through or a reamer depending on how thick/deep the bushing. There are a lot of burs on them too. The Dremel was a good tool of choice. The shafts are usually within tolerance just because they are made to a higher quality spec. The rain is supposed to move out today and be nice and cool here this weekend. Only in the low 70's Farenheight. I forget we don't use the metric system really well in the US. HA! So between fixing my privacy fence and tearing into my snowblower, I think I have a pretty busy weekend ahead of me. Thanks again. By the way, what is your day job?


----------



## vinnycom

i cut hair.
the flat disc in the vid is always turning being driven by the motor crank shaft via belt and polley, it spins according to engine speed and is always spinning/turning.
the rubber disc wheel is whats connected to the drive shafts, wheels turn when the rubber disc contacts the spinning flat disc . 
when engaging the drive lever either the flat disc moves to make contact with the rubber disc or the rubber disc moves to make contact w/the flat disc.
on mine the rubber disc moves when i engage the drive lever, which method urs has depends on year and make of machine.

as for no throttle control seems like the linkage is not attached to the throttle lever. remove heater box, the one covering the muffler, and take some pics of the throttle lever and carb linkages


----------



## RobertSX4

FYI
If you have less than 10 posts it wont display links and photos in sigs, instead newbies like me see this:

"Bought a dead but now fixed 1980ish craftsman II 10/28....ITS ONE HEAVY BEAST

MY VIDS ON FIXIN HER UP

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 4 posts.
"


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Dear Robert, not true.

We changed that quite a while back simply for this reason. Someone new coming here for help needs to be able to "show" us what's wrong in most cases for us to help. It's much easier to see the problem than to try and have someone spend a lot of time trying to describe it. You can upload photos from the first post.

Links on the other hand might might get caught by the spam police (automatically) and hold your post for moderator approval. That's because most people posting links with few posts have in the past been spammers with links to junk none or us are interested in.
In any case the post if legit should get approved in a few hours depending on when one of us is paying attention :icon_whistling:

.


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Thanks, Frog. When I did my first post I must have missed the option to post the pics. One of the members said that I should so I uploaded some photos. It has helped me a lot with Engine Identification as well as specific info on the snowblower itself. I understand each one of these forums has different rules. I am a member of Truck, Tractor, Lawn and Garden, Fence, and a bunch of other forums because if we all can help each other and learn from each other, I believe that's the way it's supposed to be. Just my opinion. This is my first snowblower. So, I felt I needed some assistance from guys/gals that have used snowblowers for years. I live in Ohio so I don't need to spend thousands of dollars on a snowblower. I got mine for free. We live in a cul-de-sac and have several elderly neighbors. The one guy that had a snowblower moved. I figured I should get one. I know most of you will laugh but if we get 4 inches of snow here this place shuts down. I'm basically will be clearing driveways and sidewalks and just helping folks out. A few years ago we had 21" of snow and I sure could have used it then. At the farm, we have bigger equipment with blades and plows to help but never the need for a snowblower. I have found everyone's information extremely helpful and beneficial. I love to learn about anything, for me knowledge is power. If I can get mine up and running I hope I can help someone else out down the road. I'm hoping to tear into mine today or tomorrow. Be on the lookout for more pics and questions. Vinny posted some really good videos for me. I appreciate that. Thank you for clearing up any confusion on posting. Have a great weekend!


----------



## vinnycom

Bash Rip Rock said:


> Thanks, Frog. When I did my first post I must have missed the option to post the pics. One of the members said that I should so I uploaded some photos. It has helped me a lot with Engine Identification as well as specific info on the snowblower itself. I understand each one of these forums has different rules. I am a member of Truck, Tractor, Lawn and Garden, Fence, and a bunch of other forums because if we all can help each other and learn from each other, I believe that's the way it's supposed to be. Just my opinion. This is my first snowblower. So, I felt I needed some assistance from guys/gals that have used snowblowers for years. I live in Ohio so I don't need to spend thousands of dollars on a snowblower. I got mine for free. We live in a cul-de-sac and have several elderly neighbors. The one guy that had a snowblower moved. I figured I should get one. I know most of you will laugh but if we get 4 inches of snow here this place shuts down. I'm basically will be clearing driveways and sidewalks and just helping folks out. A few years ago we had 21" of snow and I sure could have used it then. At the farm, we have bigger equipment with blades and plows to help but never the need for a snowblower. I have found everyone's information extremely helpful and beneficial. I love to learn about anything, for me knowledge is power. If I can get mine up and running I hope I can help someone else out down the road. I'm hoping to tear into mine today or tomorrow. Be on the lookout for more pics and questions. Vinny posted some really good videos for me. I appreciate that. Thank you for clearing up any confusion on posting. Have a great weekend!


a friendly tip, when posting break up the monolithic paragraph, hit enter once in awhile after adding a period


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Here are the pics Vinny of the drive mechanism and the best pics I could get of the carb. The drive problem was the bolt that joins the 2 shafts was missing a nut. The bolt fell out I guess? It was just laying in there. And nut missing. I put the bolt back in and just stuck a nut on it temporarily. Everything turns freely and is really smooth.

Questions-
1. Should the rubber wheel be replaced? The metal disc is raised into the rubber wheel.
2. Any lubrication needed on the big gear? If so what kind. Both gears/cogs are in great shape
3. The bolt I referenced above according to the parts book is just a standard 1/4-20 bolt x number of inches long. Should it be a Grade 8 Bolt? Or is Grade 5 ok?
4. I know the carb is hard to see. Any thoughts on the linkage etc? According to the parts manual, I believe everything is there. When I move the Throttle Lever nothing happens other than pull on the spring, very little if any tension on that spring. 

I'll have more questions I am sure but this is a place to start from. I got rained out here so no way to get it fired up this afternoon. Thanks again, everyone. Have a great week.

(I don't know why it always rotates my first pic?)


----------



## vinnycom

heres a vid of ur carb and how its setup, well it looks like urs to the t.
maybe u can figure out whats wrong with urs. one thing to check is to see if governor arm can move


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Hey everyone. Fairly productive day, I guess. Below you will see all the pics of the carb. 

The first 2 if they load right are the butterfly attached to the governor arm via the linkage. This butterfly is frozen solid!

The choke butterfly is in the other pictures. It's free as can be. 

In the last group of pics, you can see the governor arm will move freely towards the auger end of the unit.

The throttle adjustment spring attached to the governor arm moves (the spring does) but the governor arm does not move when moving the throttle adjustment lever. And it doesn't matter what position it is in.

Please give me any suggestions you may have. I am all ears.

Additional questions: 
1. Recommended oil/lube for the auger gearbox?
2. Recommended grease for the auger shafts, I have a grease zerk on each side of the auger.
3. From my previous post does the little "rubber wheel" from the pic need replacing?

Thanks in advance everyone!!!!!! I truly appreciate it.


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Rest of the pics!


----------



## vinnycom

that carb is nasty.
if a noob then consider buying a Chinese clone off ebay, will take about a month to arrive and cost $10 to $15 u.s.
needs a very good and long cleaning, bowl gasket, maybe needle vale and gasket, maybe a new butterfly assemble if its badly pitted, etc.
watch some vids on a detailed cleaning as it most def needs it.

i think the governor fine, you said it does move, but if butterfly is seized then it wont move the gov arm. the arm will be in a "rest" position and only move in one direction when engine is off iirc
but first need to tackle the carb


----------



## crazzywolfie

best to spray the throttle with penitrating oil and getting it freed up then start working on cleaning up inside the carb. it is really hard to say if you should replace the carb or not without looking inside it. if it is clean and you get the throttle moving best to toss it back on and see how it runs


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Just a quick update everyone. I went ahead an ordered a new carb. I have the know how on cleaning and rebuilding but a little short on time. Not because of impending snow but 1,000 other projects. It should be here tomorrow. Picked up the new muffler today. Waiting on some new hardware to tighten things up.

If you guys could address these questions I would really appreciate it. 

1. Lube recommended for auger gear box?
2. Lube recommendations for the auger shafts? I have a grease zerk on each side.
3. Then from a previous post. Do I need to replace the rubber wheel that comes in contact with spinning metal disc? It has a couple of tears in it. My unit raises the metal disc to come in contact with the rubber wheel.
4. Where is the best place to buy the drive belt and the auger belts? Or does someone have exact dimensions so I can go to my local NAPA and get the belts.
5. Where do you guys buy most of your snowblower parts? Online or local?
6. My unit has some rusty spots on it. Mainly in the auger area. Is it worth sanding those down and apply some primer and paint?
7. Are there any preventative maintenance or prep necessary before the snow flys?

As always Thank you very much. Have a good night everyone!


----------



## vinnycom

there seems enough rubber on the disk even though its cracking it should be fine but not too expensive to replace if need be.
for the shafts any type of grease will do, i used low temp but any will/should suffice.
for gearbox u should find specs for it, could be gear oil, 00 or 0 grease, but iirc 00 or 0 greases should be fine for all types

i bought my belts at carquest, their brand made by dayco, ap series like ap38, cheapest i found, mine still looks new after one season, just got to get ur measrements


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Good evening. Uh.......stumbled into a new issue today on the chute. The information I have found is not really encouraging. See pics below. I chatted with Sears Parts Direct to find out this piece is no longer made/available. I checked several other online sources and no, go.
There are 3 on the chute ring. 2 are fine and I have one with the tabs missing. That is why my chute was extremely wobbly. Anyone know where I can get one? Have they used these on another model or brand that anyone knows of? I'm open to all suggestions. I found 1 used on eBay for $15 I can handle some wobble for that. 

Hoping to install carburetor tomorrow. And put on the new muffler. We will see! Thanks for all the help. Greatly appreciate it!


----------



## crazzywolfie

if you got a welder or know someone with a welder you may be able to weld on it to fix the no tab issue. probably wouldn't take much. probably just a tack or 2


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

I think that's what I am going to do. Just tack on a couple of tabs.

Update: 
1. New Carb is on. Needs some adjustment. It is surging throughout the whole power band. 
2. The throttle adjustment now works. So, it can actually idle, somewhat.
3. New Muffler installed. Made a huge difference in the noise.

New Problems:
1. Now that the thing is kind of running. The thing won't move at all in Reverse 1 but will in Reverse 2.
2. It will not go forward unless I go in Reverse first. Then if I put it in Forward 1 it will go?

I am guessing the cables need some kind of adjustment? The auger lever is almost perfect. I'm not going to touch that one. Still working through this thing. I'm sure I will get it figured out before the snow flies. Any suggestions or thoughts I am all ears. Thanks, everyone for your help so far. I greatly appreciate it!


----------



## vinnycom

donyboys vids will help u in adjusting the carb. imo also use the low idle speed screw also when adjusting full throttle

2nd vid this should help in fixing the drive system


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Here’s what I got now. I adjusted the carb. It runs fine at idle. When it’s a full tilt it is still surging a bit. I’ve watched the videos posted and a few more. I adjusted the fast screw too. But it still won’t take out the surging? Could the retention spring from the throttle to the governor be stretched out? The throttle assembly seems fine. 
I cleaned off the friction disc. It was a touch, slick. The drive seem to work ok, but the cable doesn’t seem near as tight as the auger handle? But, it seems to move ok. 
Let me know what you got? I’ll try about anything. I keep chipping away. One piece at a time, like Johnny Cash said! Thanks. I hope everyone had a good weekend!


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Hey gang. It's been a few weeks. I finally got back to working on the old snowblower. I must live under a rock or something but I think the snowblower I have was assembled with leftover stuff and they slapped a decal on it. 
I am looking specifically for the drive belt and the auger belt. I checked with Sears parts direct and they told me it's not available. Fine, but I can't get it to cross to anything? I did learn from some searching that the 536 prefixes were built by Murray. If I am wrong please correct me. 
536.886520 is the unit I have. The manual I have is for an 11hp unit. Mine is a 5hp Tecumseh 23". Maybe I'm having a bad day or frustration is settling in, I'm not sure. I know this must be a very trivial request but if someone could help me out here. Heck, I even found a new idler pulley for it without issue. It was on eBay about 10 minutes from the house. The Drive Belt is around 3/8" wide well-used length/circumference approximately 33" and the Auger Drive Belt is about 1/2" wide well used and approximately 38" length/circumference.
Thanks as always everyone. Hope everyone had a good weekend.


----------



## crazzywolfie

are the belts worn out? you can usually adjust the auger idler pulley so you can get longer life out of a belt. i have done that on a couple craftsman machines instead of replacing the belt. if you think it needs new belts it is usually best to take them off and take them with you. tractor supply stores generally have a good selection of belts or worst case scenario small engine shops usually have some on hand and for the most part they are pretty cheap but the thing i also hate about craftsman machines is they tend to usually be the ones with a half size belt so they are sometimes more expensive if a full size belt won't fit right


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Thanks crazzywolfie. They need replaced. They are torn. This is my first snowblower and I picked it up for next to nothing. But, it has been a huge pain in the a!! I’ve been around equipment my entire life and definitely worked on more complex machines and have never had this much difficulty finding parts. This unit for whatever reason never shows up on any of the online parts stores. So I have to guess or estimate a close relative to get parts. 
I have figured out the belt situation. The manual I have is incorrect. So that thing is in the recycle bin. I need a 1/2” x 33” auger drive belt and a 3/8” x 38” traction drive belt. Luckily my dad still is plugging away at NAPA in the driveline shop. 49 years by the way. We found an old catalog that we could size the belts by measurements. The old numbers had been substituted with newer ones but we got them to cross. Then I verified through AYP, Murray, Briggs and Stratton, Stens, Dayco, and Gates ( makes NAPA belts) and they all somehow cross check! So, I’m going to get them ordered tomorrow. Once I get good part numbers I’ll post them, in case it will help anyone else.
Thanks again! Have a great night!


----------



## vinnycom

what i did was bring the old ones with me to carquest, match them up best i could, then bought the next size longer and shorter, so 3 belts each for auger and drive, 6 all together. kept the ones that fit and returned the rest.


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Thanks, Vinny. I had to chuckle because I can't tell you how many times I have done this over the years! Thanks for the tip. I hope to get to Napa this morning and get what I need. I may come home with an arm full, just to make sure! Take care, my friend!


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Finally found the drive belt, I think. I have it on but may need to get a new idler spring. Need just a shade more tension in my opinion. The auger belt I have is a 33" and it's still too big. Need to get a few more to try.

Ok, I am trying to figure out this chute assembly. Since the Serial#536.886520 comes up with Sears as an 11hp model and kind of hunt and peck to find something close. I'm at a loss. I didn't personally remove the chute and assembly. I know where the plastic chute bolts. I have that all together ready to go. But, I am at a loss right now on how this ring goes on. 

1. Does it get clamped on with the tabs?
2. Does it ride around on the tabs?
3. Am I missing a part that would make this easier?
4. The Chute/Spout was very sloppy when I got the unit.

I have attached some pics and I hoping like heck that someone can help me with this? Picture, video, hieroglyphics I will take anything. This is a simple application but personally not taken it off or a manual to refer to, I'm stumped. I admit it! It's aggravating that I have worked on such complex machines but can't figure out a freaking snow blower.

As always, Thank you very much for any and all assistance! Have a great evening.


----------



## evh

The ring simply sits on top of the opening. The 3 retainers you have go on AFTER you set the chute ring on top of the opening. They hold it by the "lip" that is on the opening. Try this. Remove 2 of the 3 retainers. Then put it on top. The attached single retainer will slide under the lip. Once you see how that works, you will attach the other two. Make sense?

Also no tabs are needed where you think you have to weld tabs. One of the retainers does not need tabs. That one will be in front. The other two are on the back sides. The tabs stop it from turning all the way around. I am pretty sure anyhow.


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Well, evh. That was my thought but I wasn't sure? I understand what you are saying. I'll change the position of my retainers. I can do the one at a time. Hey, it's worth a shot. More than I had a few hours ago! The thing that perplexes me is, that there are only 3 retainers for something that is circular? My mind tells me you would need 4 not 3 just to keep the tension "even." I know I am reading more into this than necessary but I work in precise things not just, "sloppy" like before. Sure appreciate the tips. I'm going to go take a look at it now. Thanks again! I greatly appreciate it.


----------



## evh

I have worked on 2 or 3 that are similar. All had 3 retainers, not 4.


----------



## crazzywolfie

i have only seen 3 tabs on those also. as far as the belt goes have you adjusted the idler pulley if it has the option? sometimes you need to adjust it so you can fit a shorter belt on it. if the old belt was was stretched or destroyed there is a chance it may have already been adjusted to the max so a shorter belt may not fit but a longer belt may be too long.


----------



## vinnycom

mine has 4 retainers/tabs, if urs needed or had 4 theyre would be an extra set of holes on the chute plate for the nuts and bolts for another retainer.

tighten the bolts and nuts just enough to not impede the chute from turning freely when using the crank, its fine if its sloppy just as long as the crank makes contact with the notches.

the cut outs/notches, or lack there of , is what creates the left and right stops.
i actually used an angle grinder to get more notches on both sides of the chute plate so i can get a larger turning radius when using the chute crank


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Well, the idler adjustment video is just what I needed. Thanks for that. I think I have the belt situation figured out. What is the consensus on belt deflection? The rule of thumb we have always used about 1/8". Is that what you guys think? Also what distance should the belt guides be adjusted to? This will determine if I need to go down yet a belt size on each of the belts.

Fired her up tonight and she ran just fine. I think I am going to adjust the idle a touch. The problem I had was the unit started moving ok in 1st gear forward but I just made a circle in the yard and no go. I was able to bump it enough to get back to where I needed it. I will say the friction disc needs adjustment? This is the first time I've really driven it. I presume there is a video of this adjustment on YouTube if you could point me in the correct direction that would be great. Or can the cable be adjusted on the top handle portion?

Also, what does the engine idler pulley bracket screw into? Mine will not tighten completely. I can't seem to see a nut or anything? I can always remove the bolt to see but wanted to know if anyone knew off the top of their head. I can add a washer or something to shim it out. And is there an adjustment for the auger belt idler?

Snow flurries in the forecast here. But, no snow, yet!

I haven't messed with chute yet. I will get to it. Thanks for the input on that nutty thing!

Have a great evening everyone!


----------



## Bash Rip Rock

Hey gang! Well, Ohio is calling for the first measurable snowfall tonight. That means anything over 1" at the Airport. All you guys in the major snow areas feel free to laugh. Everyone around has to relearn how to drive and its a regular ole cluster! 
Well, the drive belt situation is fixed. I ended up having to us a 3L370W Napa# if anyone needs it. Then the auger drive was a little bit tougher. It went down to a 4L300W Napa# on that one but it works fine.

1. Should I spray the inside of the Chute with anything kind of lube or anything?
2. I had to level the Skid Shoes out tonight. I followed the manual but was wondering if it's normal for them not to be even from side to side? I used a level to make sure I wasn't crazy but it's level.

I did get the Chute installed correctly and it's working.

I was adjusting the drive cable that attaches to the top handle. It broke right at the bottom where it attaches. So, I looked online for a spring but couldn't really find anything that looked like what was on mine. I went to my local Napa and bought a clutch return spring. Made a few modifications and it works perfectly. Just in case you are in a pinch you can make that work. Just an FYI.

I think that's it for tonight. I guess we will see if it snows or doesn't? Hope all is well with everyone. Thanks again for all the help.


----------

