# Repower 536.909800 from 8hp tec to 212cc predator



## awg1983

So my 8hp tecumseh threw a rod. Has anyone put a 212cc on the old eager 1 3 stage drift buster by craftsman? Model number 536.909800. Just a quick look I am going to have to either modify the chute adjustment arm or raise the motor and get different belts. Also in refernce to the original holes from the tecumseh I have to relocate the predator to the front of the tractor towards the belt pulleys. I give the move up credit to the sump pan on the old motor being much larger vs the predator. 

Any advice or guidance or pictures would be great

Thanks!!


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## Shryp

I did an HM80 to 212cc Predator change on my Ariens and everything lined right up. Mine had the lower chute rod with universal joints so that was no issue. I used the same mounting bolts as well I think. I did need to get new pulleys as the old was a 1" crank and the new was a 3/4" crank.

On an old Toro 3521 I put one of the older Greyhounds on and I used a 2x4 as a spacer between the handles and the chute crank mount to move it out a bit.


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## HCBPH

*Remotoring*

I can't say I've seen anyone remotoring that model with anything other than another Tecumseh but no reason it shouldn't work. You've noted the likely issues on the chute or maybe the control cables.


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## awg1983

I have to do something with the chute rod. Move it out or move the motor up. Maybe even make a new bracket that is shorter. To bad the engine jug isn't on the other side. Other than that it has to moved ask the way up in the tractor and new holes drilled


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## scipper77

If you move the motor forward I don't see the belt cover fitting on anymore. Same goes for raising the motor. This would be a big deal to me.


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## Kiss4aFrog

How wide is your machine ??
I have the 10hp 32"s and I know the 212cc predator would be disappointing. From what I've read of others who did put the predator on their machines I haven't seen anyone with complaints. Most are very happy with the re-power.
You need a belt cover but if it's a matter of going with a new cheap predator and fabricating something or spending as much or more $$$ for a worn Tecumseh I'd go with a fabricated cover.


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## awg1983

my base that the motor mounts on is 12"x12" the center of the shaft is 4.25" high the top of the belt cover mount is 7.25"


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## Shryp




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## awg1983

I'm thinking my game plan is to move the motor as far forward in the mounting plate, the modify the brackets for the chute rod as needed. This way I can stick with my new belts and I won't have to play the guessing game on what belts works where and what size. Only thing is I may have to move the dual pulley further out on the shaft than I'd like to get it inline with the lower pulleys. Rough calcs based on the predator blue prints and some diagrams I found on the hm80 I need to move the predator forward about 3.5" I can account for 2.75 on the mounting plate, the rest will have to be in sliding the pulley out on the shaft unfortunately. I came up with 3.5" from the hm80.sump depth of 2.5" and a difference in shaft lengths i think it was 2.43 on the hm80 to 1.79 on the predator. 

Thoughts?


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## HJames

1.79 is the length of the keyway on the predator. The entire shaft is also 2.43


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## awg1983

Ohh...ok whooops. On the mounting hole diagram what is the 2.6"? is that to the centerline of the shaft?


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## awg1983

As we all can see the predator dimensions above here are the deminision i found for the HM80...accurate? I am not sure...
Tecumseh Model Series HM80 - HM100


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## Shryp

awg1983 said:


> Ohh...ok whooops. On the mounting hole diagram what is the 2.6"? is that to the centerline of the shaft?


No clue, but by comparing the 2 diagrams to each other that seems logical.



awg1983 said:


> As we all can see the predator dimensions above here are the deminision i found for the HM80...accurate? I am not sure...
> Tecumseh Model Series HM80 - HM100


Why bother with that? Just take your engine off and get a tape measure. This isn't rocket science and things don't have to be perfect. The belts and pulleys can make up for some minor differences. The Harbor Freight stores have a display model too, so just take your tape measure with you or grab one of theirs and double check those measurements too.


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## HJames

I know Shryp referenced this question earlier when he talked about his repower, but what is the diameter of the shaft on your HM80? If it is 1" then you will need to use a special sheave to bridge the gap or buy new pulleys because the Predator has a 3/4 inch shaft. If it were me I would just go buy the motor because one way or another the swap can be done. It's going to be a lot easier to see what your gonna need to do when the motor is on the mounting plate.


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## awg1983

Well, my dad and I got the new predator mounted yesterday and currently she is sitting outside running doing the "break-in period"....it has to run 3 hours. Had to move the motor as far forward on the tractor mounting plate as possible. Drill new holes. One thing we did notice is that the predator is not the same shaft location we had to move it about 2" to the left of where the old HM80 sat. Yes HJames I ordered the sleeve from ebay and it works well so far. One thing we didnt get a chance to finish was the chute control rod. We are going to either shorten the original brackets or make new ones and put the toothed gear on the bottom of the chute vs top as it came originally. This will allow it to have clearance from the head and I can still access the dip stick. All is well so far. Ill update as progress is made with some pictures. 

I am probably going to get the jet kit for it. Anyone used one of the stage kits to up the HP? I dont want the thing to be overly loud with what looks to be a straight pipe exhaust but am interested in getting a little more power someday. Plus who dont like more power and tinkering with toys?!


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## awg1983

Here is a short clip of its first maiden trial run. Predator 212cc stock. Stock belts also. Seemed to work fairly well for its first time out in some very heavy wet melting snow.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Being yours is a 26" that likely is as large an auger as you'd want to go with the 212cc and still have some power for the big stuff at the EOD !!
Looks good blowing snow 

Looks to be in good shape. You should show off some photos of it.


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## scipper77

It looks to throw for some good distance considering the deflector looks like it's not quite up all of the way.

How does the 6.5 HP predator compare to the 8HP Tec? I'm under the impression that they are comparable in performance.


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## GustoGuy

awg1983 said:


> So my 8hp tecumseh threw a rod. Has anyone put a 212cc on the old eager 1 3 stage drift buster by craftsman? Model number 536.909800. Just a quick look I am going to have to either modify the chute adjustment arm or raise the motor and get different belts. Also in refernce to the original holes from the tecumseh I have to relocate the predator to the front of the tractor towards the belt pulleys. I give the move up credit to the sump pan on the old motor being much larger vs the predator.
> 
> Any advice or guidance or pictures would be great
> 
> Thanks!!


What your opinion on how well the Predator works compared to the original Tecumseh? 
I found it worked much better than the Tecumseh.


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## scipper77

GustoGuy said:


> What your opinion on how well the Predator works compared to the original Tecumseh?
> I found it worked much better than the Tecumseh.


While I have the same question as you with regards to performance, I have a feeling anyone comparing the two will be comparing an old worn out Tec, to a new ohv predator. Not apples to apples. I'd bet jackmels could chime in here, nobody has more experience on this site from what I've seen.


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## awg1983

Well, just fromt he 7" of heavy wet snow I tried though briefly yesterday, and as scipper said, the Tecumseh was old and worn out. But from my point of view from operating the Tecumseh over a dozen times this last season and just once on the new predator I would have to say the Tecumseh at its last season of its running life did not have the power the new predator has. maybe when it was new it would blow the socks off the predator but after years of wear and looking at costs to rebuild vs repower i would say the predator is a very viable replacement. Especially for all the upgrades available for the new predator. I have been looking they make different stage "hop up" kits 1 through 4 at various horse powers...I think I am going to do the stage 1 which is suppose to net between 8-10 HP for 70 bucks. Performance wise, I feel that the predator had more torque, it didnt bog down as quick and took more to bog it down vs the tecumseh. However, that may change after more of an opportunity to run it because of lack of snow. Bottom line is I am very satisfied that for a 100 bucks I can still keep my old snow blower vs having to put 500 plus into buying a new one. Oh another kicker for the predator is Honda GX parts are interchangable   If you are a big gear head you can buy the stage 4 kit and make this little motor in the neighborhood of 14 HP but who needs that LOL As soon as I get her put back together I will post some pictures. Hoping to finish the chute arm this weekend.


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## scipper77

I think those kits are geared more for kart racing. In this application you would be running your motor at over the stock 3,600 rpms. Before I bought anything I would look at the HP and torque curves for stock vs upgraded and see what rpms the added power is at. You may need to replace the crank pulleys if you are planning on running at high rpms. Also, heavily loading a hopped up engine may be a recipe for a very short life. 

From my side I hope you mod the heck out of that motor and let us know how it goes. If it blows up you know replacing it again is just another $100 (unless you destroy the gears before the motor).

Good luck.


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## awg1983

True scipper...I will probably just end up jetting it so it will start and run a little bit better. Do you guys run air filters on your engines? I havent looked yet but I am assuming mine is probably the typical foam that you see on small motors. Wonder how that will take snow and moisture blowing on it and maybe freezing?


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## Kiss4aFrog

If you think you'll have a problem or do have a problem you can always pick up some "tin" from a homedepot, fleetfarm .... and make a box to either add some heat from the engine or muffler or just enclose the filter so it's breathing from the bottom of the opening and less likely to pull snow up into the filter.


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## awg1983

Here is the finished product. New Predator 212cc on old Craftsman 535.909800 tractor unit. Costs...just the motor 103 bucks shipped. The motor had to be placed on the front of the tractor as far up as it would go to be able to reach the pulleys on the tractor with out adjusting the double pulley out on the shaft much. Modified only the two brackets for the chute control arm. The one on the handlebars I took off and turned around so its pretty much on the bottom maybe slightly outside of the bars, the middle one with the spring, dad and I bent it in the vise to get to that shape shown, then drilled one new hole in the mounting plate on the tractor and used one original mounting hole. The front one by the chute we turned it and drilled new holes in it and used stock holes in the tractor. I zip tied the chute control cable to the re fabricated brackets and zip tied the clutch cable to a mount supplied on the motor. The original throttle cable even hooked up to the throttle control on the new motor. The belt guard went on with no issues. All and all not a tough switch and works very well. Cheap easy fix to a blown Tecumseh 8hp!


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## Kiss4aFrog

Is there any chance this motor has an output for lights ?? Just noticed the connector under the gas tank.


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## Saewoody

scipper77 said:


> If you move the motor forward I don't see the belt cover fitting on anymore. Same goes for raising the motor. This would be a big deal to me.


I had to move the 6.5hp predator forward from the original Tecumseh mounting position on my Ariens 824. The belt cover slid right on. It wasn't a problem at all. My frame actually had holes there already. I just had to knock out the mounting studs, clean up the threads, and epoxy them into the new mounting holes. 

I've also heard of people cutting their control rod and adding a universal joint to it so they can get past the engine. I was fortunate enough that mine was already of the universal type. Good luck. I've been thrilled with my repower. We've had quite a few storms this year. The motor has proven itself to be strong and reliable so far. We will have to see what happens when I try to start it next fall.


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## awg1983

kiss4afrog...im not sure...it may im not sure. from what i have seen and im not sure how it works yet but those wires are for the low oil cut out. Like I said I havent had much of a chance to dig into it yet.


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## HJames

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Is there any chance this motor has an output for lights ?? Just noticed the connector under the gas tank.


Those are ignition switch wires and a low oil shut off wire. It would be nice if they were though.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I was so happy to find out both my $50 broken "Estate" and the Troy had a stator lead for lights and heaters !! Ordered the really cheap hand warmer kits on ebay and waiting for them to arrive. Will review them once I get to try them out. 
Now I'm spoiled and if I re-power I want to make sure I can at least run a light. None of the bargain engines seem to offer a stator or even the option of adding one  Wasn't that important in the city but out in the county with a 375 foot long driveway there just isn't any light once you get 1/4 way down the drive due to the pine trees and there's nothing for lighting out on the road.

That was a nice install. Good to see another 3 stage back on it's feet. Seems they are either asking a fortune for them or they are one step from junk when they hit craigslist in my area.


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## scipper77

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I was so happy to find out both my $50 broken "Estate" and the Troy had a stator lead for lights and heaters !! Ordered the really cheap hand warmer kits on ebay and waiting for them to arrive. Will review them once I get to try them out.
> Now I'm spoiled and if I re-power I want to make sure I can at least run a light. None of the bargain engines seem to offer a stator or even the option of adding one  Wasn't that important in the city but out in the county with a 375 foot long driveway there just isn't any light once you get 1/4 way down the drive due to the pine trees and there's noting for lighting out on the road.
> 
> That was a nice install. Good to see another 3 stage back on it's feet. Seems they are either asking a fortune for them or they are one step from junk when they hit craigslist in my area.


Slight off topic here (sorry op, I'm big on forum ettiquitte. Hope you don't mind).

Kiss, I know I am the one who indicated MTD made the Estate brand but I saw another thread on here where someone indicated that they had an older Estate that they claimed had another manufacturer. I think it was Murray.

Also I would much rather have a good led head lamp than pay to have a light on my blower. Those head lamps are useful in so many situations. Camping, working in on car or in the shed. I got sick of holding flashlights in my mouth and will never go back.


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## 43128

if theres one thing i have learned in 5 years experience working with tecumsehs, its that you can mess with them all you want, you can spend years and years to get them to run right, and you are almost never able to. tecumsehs are usually way more trouble then they are worth, the **** things never run right and are made out of "monkey metal" that doesnt hold up at all


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## GustoGuy

43128 said:


> if theres one thing i have learned in 5 years experience working with tecumsehs, its that you can mess with them all you want, you can spend years and years to get them to run right, and you are almost never able to. tecumsehs are usually way more trouble then they are worth, the **** things never run right and are made out of "monkey metal" that doesnt hold up at all


I never liked my Tecumseh engine either. Now there are many die hard defenders of Tecumseh engines.here and I worked a job were I did maintenance for a landscaping company and most of the engines they had were Kawasaki engines and a few Briggs and Stratton commercial engines and even a few old Honda engine's on the seed spreader and lawn airators. I think Tecumseh's were average quality at best and despite years of their flat head engines blowing connecting rods they did nothing to fix the issues so they became known as rod blowers and their reputation suffered and they eventually went out of bussiness. I could never get my Tecumseh to run reliability despite good maintenance and draining the gas and the carburetor would go seemingly out of tune just while it was running. Now the worst of the worst Predator engine always starts in 1 to 2 pulls and runs great every time. I think they failed to respond to the quality demands of the American consumers and Japan's Honda ate up a large part of their market and the Chinese Honda clones finally did them in.


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## scipper77

Now let's not get carried away. Tecs have a tendency to need carb adjustment but there are many of them out there that have been running for 30 years. Also it is well known that the rod failures are mainly due to oil issues. Usually running with a low oil level. I think the other thing I will mention is that the Tecumseh design did not really change much for something like 40 years. 

Despite the tone of the above paragraph, I see both sides of the picture here. I'm just keeping this discussion honest. If someone said that Tec's are the best design ever I would likely be on the other side of the fence here.


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## GustoGuy

scipper77 said:


> Now let's not get carried away. Tecs have a tendency to need carb adjustment but there are many of them out there that have been running for 30 years. Also it is well known that the rod failures are mainly due to oil issues. Usually running with a low oil level. I think the other thing I will mention is that the Tecumseh design did not really change much for something like 40 years.
> 
> Despite the tone of the above paragraph, I see both sides of the picture here. I'm just keeping this discussion honest. If someone said that Tec's are the best design ever I would likely be on the other side of the fence here.


The first Honda GX engine 240cc was 1986 or so. Honda set the standard while Tecumseh and Briggs tried to stifle it. You are right Tecumseh kept making the same old stuff for 40 years while Honda used their expertise that they gained by making motorcycle engines to redesign the small engine into what it is today. They are making compressors now and sold off their small engine business. It you do not innovate you go or are run out of business.


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## scipper77

GustoGuy,
This is not directed at you. I just want to say my piece about why tecs really are a great motor (as well as honda's)

So my primary small engine addiction is small outboards. OMC's from the 60's through the 80's (I stay away from pressure tanks). The design did not change much here over a 35 year period as well. I once got weeds in the water intake of my 5.5 Evinrude fisherman. The motor got hot and I blew a head gasket. I pulled the boat out of the water at *noon* and had it back in the water with a brand new head gasket at *1:20* for a cost of under $20. Because they are dirt simple with an ample supply of parts for them I would not even consider a modern outboard. 

Believe me, the internal combustion engine was pretty much perfected by the 1960's. Just because the Tec design was 40 years old does not mean it was in any way a bad engine. What Honda did was make an OHV motor that delivered more power with less displacement making it more efficient. Honda also made you pay a lot more for that design. The only reason we are now singing the praises of the Honda design is because the Chinese now have made a motor with that design at a ridiculously low price. At the price of the Predator I have to admit that it makes little "financial" sense to re-power with any other new motor. I do acknowledge that there are plenty of other politics here.

My point here is that the price point is a major factor in this discussion. If it wasn't, then Honda would put a fuel injection system on these motors. Carbs are also an outdated technology.

Sorry to rant. I'm a middle aged guy who loves working on old motors. The more I work on them the more I appreciate the simplicity and reliability of old iron. I like the new stuff too but if I have to work on it the old flat heads are more appealing. If I have to throw it out the honda clones are the best option for replacement (For me, politics). I would hope that this doesn't have to be a polarizing topic.


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## Kiss4aFrog

As much as I might want to go American or want the quality I think that a Honda offers it's hard to pass up a 6.5hp ninety nine dollar re-power. Most people if money was no object would buy differently but I'm here trying to find the best way to keep my tired iron running because a new Honda, Ariens or Toro just isn't in the budget.

My gripe on the $99 engines is you can't add a stator. Wish they sold a kit to add to it should you want it. They would still have a killer sticker price but you could add or maintain some creature comforts (lights, heaters) to your machine.

Like Scipper77 pointed out, there is a benefit to someone designing a good product and not "updating" it just to change it. Look at the automotive industry and how they see to design a new air and oil filter for every model of vehicle car body.
My five year old China Troy engine already has parts that are no longer available and that's something you need to think about when you're comparing them. If you're here on the board you likely have some skills and "tinker". The replacement engine you buy, will you be able to get parts to fix it should it fail in a year, five, ten ??

And just to do a little hijacking, is there an upgrade to the failure prone connecting rods on the Tec's ?? Just wondering if I have to tear one down what to put in there to give a bit of insurance on not breaking one.


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## GustoGuy

scipper77 said:


> GustoGuy,
> This is not directed at you. I just want to say my piece about why tecs really are a great motor (as well as honda's)
> 
> So my primary small engine addiction is small outboards. OMC's from the 60's through the 80's (I stay away from pressure tanks). The design did not change much here over a 35 year period as well. I once got weeds in the water intake of my 5.5 Evinrude fisherman. The motor got hot and I blew a head gasket. I pulled the boat out of the water at *noon* and had it back in the water with a brand new head gasket at *1:20* for a cost of under $20. Because they are dirt simple with an ample supply of parts for them I would not even consider a modern outboard.
> 
> Believe me, the internal combustion engine was pretty much perfected by the 1960's. Just because the Tec design was 40 years old does not mean it was in any way a bad engine. What Honda did was make an OHV motor that delivered more power with less displacement making it more efficient. Honda also made you pay a lot more for that design. The only reason we are now singing the praises of the Honda design is because the Chinese now have made a motor with that design at a ridiculously low price. At the price of the Predator I have to admit that it makes little "financial" sense to re-power with any other new motor. I do acknowledge that there are plenty of other politics here.
> 
> My point here is that the price point is a major factor in this discussion. If it wasn't, then Honda would put a fuel injection system on these motors. Carbs are also an outdated technology.
> 
> Sorry to rant. I'm a middle aged guy who loves working on old motors. The more I work on them the more I appreciate the simplicity and reliability of old iron. I like the new stuff too but if I have to work on it the old flat heads are more appealing. If I have to throw it out the honda clones are the best option for replacement (For me, politics). I would hope that this doesn't have to be a polarizing topic.


I am a pharmacist by trade and not a mechanic. I own a large amount of tools and I own two Polaris snowmobiles and a Boat with a 50 hp Force 2 stroke and an old 1999 American built Tigershark (Arctic Cat) personal watercraft. I like that the stuff is paid for and I certainly enjoy my toys and every one comes to the cabin to hang out by the fire and ride the watercraft all day long and wake board and ski behind it. I do all my own maintanece since I am a certified Tightwad according to my wife. Heck my wife's 2000 Buick's air-conditioning was cutting in and out and the mechanic quoted me $480.00 to replace the ignition switch after charging us a diagnostic fee of $15.00 and I went out and watched a You Tube video and did it myself for $110.00 the cost of the part. I even have a set of Torex bit drivers for this occaision That was in 2008 and it still blows cold air to this day except not now for it is really cold out here. 
A funny story here. I am really good at installing ceramic tile and My wife used to be a director at a historical sight in central Minnesota and One of the Board of Directors who is an *Anesthesiologists* as well as a real handy man too. He was tearing out and remodeling the kitchen to bring it up to commercial Kitchen code and they hired a sheet rock tape and mud guy to smooth out and tecture the sheet rock he hung. I was installing tile around a cement board enclousures and he commented to me on how nice it looked. Since I use a small number if finishing nails to ensure the vertical tiles do not move while they are setting. I pull them with a needle nose pliers before I spread the grout once the Thinset sets. I learned it on You-tube and I can tile your Kitchen or your Bathroom walk in tiled shower just like a profesional tiler would. Heck I even have a ceramic tiled stair case complete with a ceramic pedastal and kick plate with wrought iron spindles for the hand rail in my Kitchen and that baby was an interesting (time consuming) Yet bueatifuly done project. He asked if I do this for a living and I said no. I told him that I am actually a pharmacist. He let out a big laugh and scolded both of us by saying *Hey I don't go the the Hospital and do your Jobs now do I? so Why are you guys not hiring some guys like me who do this for a living. *We all got a big laugh out of it when I told him I am the Managers Husband.


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## awg1983

LOL nice story Gustoguy! 

Lets just all agree to disagree...back in the today and even some today the Tecs was and are still a great viable option for a motor. However, the cost to rebuild is offset by purchasing a smaller, more efficient new technology OHV chinese...or american motor. Like anything these days, you get what you pay for...the cheap OHV predator may only last 5...10 years whatever when a rebuilt Tec may last another 10 or 15 its all a guessing game. They are all good motors just some have better pros than cons and its all on the individual and and what they want to do. Had the rod not poked a half dollar size hole in the block I probably would have rebuilt the Tec just to keep my old snowblower "original" but the block itself plus parts to do a complete rebuild correctly I could almost buy a new Predator 11hp for that price. With the reviews I seen on here regarding the 6.5hp and the "hop up" kits that relatively cheap and easy to install I elected to go with that little guy. So far I am happy...hoping this weekend we get some snow to really put it to the test. 

I did leave it outside all night in single digit weather...it started up on the 6th pull...wondering if the jet kit will help it start and run better and maybe give her a little more power or toque? What do you fellas think?


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## chrisexv6

If these are truly Honda clones, would a Honda flywheel (with magnets) and stator fit on them ?

Looking to the future, if I ever have to replace my Tecumseh Id like to go the Predator route but losing the alternator would stink.


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## GustoGuy

chrisexv6 said:


> If these are truly Honda clones, would a Honda flywheel (with magnets) and stator fit on them ?
> 
> Looking to the future, if I ever have to replace my Tecumseh Id like to go the Predator route but losing the alternator would stink.


The predator has a slightly different bevel to the flywheel's mating surface. I heard of people modifying Honda flywheels to fit and I guess if you are innovative you could possibly rig a Honda Stator to work too

Another thing you can do is buy a small alternator that runs off the belt drive. It would supply you with all the power you need to run your lights


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## awg1983

Gustoguy, did you jet your carb on your predator? 

I am going to buy a jet kit just wondering what size of jets to get?


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## GustoGuy

I enlarged the existing main jet. Super floss and polishing compound


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## db130

I use a .032 clone jet with the air filter removed. no surging issues at all and it runs fantastic.

it was $5.60 with shipping on ebay for one or $9.25 or two(i bought 2).


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## Kiss4aFrog

Or get a drill bit set and open them up. I bought a set on Ebay $7-$15 as I want to do a couple different machines that surge even after cleaning.
micro drill bit set | eBay
.


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## awg1983

Guys, I ended up ordering a kit from OMB Warehouse it was 23 bucks with shipping. It includes 2 jets a .034 and a .036 and a bigger 140 emulsion tube. In regards to the predator motor I have seen a few "dyno" results. Stock it is suppose to be a frog hair over 7hp and i forgot the torque and then they done some mods to it. I only really looked at the simple ones, I dont need a ton of horse because not sure the machine could take it...anyways...with adding an open element high flow air cleaner with a sock (like what a harley would have) and new jets it was getting around 9 to 10 hp. To me that is plenty and its fairly cheap. I think I seen kits from about 50-70 bucks. To me thats reasonable price point to get a few extra hp to have in case you need it. However, with this snow coming tonight 6-10" my game plan is to try it stock to see how it runs and handles the snow...I have a jet kit on the way as I said...should be here monday. I plan on putting in the .034 just and new emulsion tube and test again and see how it performs. I will keep you fellows updated on what I learn and discover...just at a quick walk around I am thinking at full speed it definitely turns the impellers noticeably quicker and it now sounds like a giant fan running due to what I am hoping is faster spin speed. Did use all stock pulleys....


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## awg1983

*3-4" of snow with the predator stock for now...*

Well, I think I need to change careers then I could be paid to be wrong LOL...the weather man missed it by quiet a bit...only got 3-4" vs the 6-10" initially called for yesterday afternoon...
These videos are of the stock predator on the ole 26" 3 stage craftsman driftbuster 536.909800
I must say I am quiet impressed so far...4th gear very little problem and threw snow well for a 14" impeller with no kit or no rejetting...yet  I am thinking the predator has as much if not more power than the old tecumseh...just my opinion. I definitely can say for sure it uses substantially less fuel!











I am still considering the stage 1 kit for a little more kick

I do have a question..since my belt assembly is in the way and I cant see the auger bearing where it goes into the auger housing...anyone know if there is a grease fitting down there? I noticed it is getting slightly loose and I can wiggle it very slightly. Thinking maybe just needs a little grease or repacked? Most likely a new one may be in order i fear? Thoughts?


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## chrisexv6

Is that the 6.5HP Predator?

I have a 9HP Snow King currently....wasnt sure if I could "get away with" the lower HP Predator. 26" cut Ariens (926LE)


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## awg1983

Chrisexy6 yes it is the harbor freight special 6.5 hp 212cc predator. Yes mine is a 26" as well and mine is a 3 stage. I just took it through a drift a foot deep it did slow the motor down slightly but not enough to cause me concern. From other guys on here I read it runs lean out of the box, that is why they enlarge the jets or in my case I got a kit coming. I just figure under the heavy load she chokes for fuel. I recommend it highly. You can "hop" these little motors up to crazy hp. Google 212cc predator hop up kits or stage kits. For 67 bucks they say you will get about 9 or 10hp with little modification...just a thought


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## GustoGuy

awg1983 said:


> Chrisexy6 yes it is the harbor freight special 6.5 hp 212cc predator. Yes mine is a 26" as well and mine is a 3 stage. I just took it through a drift a foot deep it did slow the motor down slightly but not enough to cause me concern. From other guys on here I read it runs lean out of the box, that is why they enlarge the jets or in my case I got a kit coming. I just figure under the heavy load she chokes for fuel. I recommend it highly. You can "hop" these little motors up to crazy hp. Google 212cc predator hop up kits or stage kits. For 67 bucks they say you will get about 9 or 10hp with little modification...just a thought


Yes. Stage 1 kit from NR racing is good for about 10Hp for $37. Stage 4 NR racing kit will put you at 14hp out of 212cc. Heck By enlarging your main jet you will gain at least a 1HP becuase the engines are lean running for emmision reasons


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## GustoGuy

awg1983 said:


> Well, I think I need to change careers then I could be paid to be wrong LOL...the weather man missed it by quiet a bit...only got 3-4" vs the 6-10" initially called for yesterday afternoon...
> These videos are of the stock predator on the ole 26" 3 stage craftsman driftbuster 536.909800
> I must say I am quiet impressed so far...4th gear very little problem and threw snow well for a 14" impeller with no kit or no rejetting...yet  I am thinking the predator has as much if not more power than the old tecumseh...just my opinion. I definitely can say for sure it uses substantially less fuel!
> 
> Craftsman eager1 drift buster predator 3stage - YouTube
> 
> #2 Craftsman eager1 drift buster predator 3stage - YouTube
> 
> I am still considering the stage 1 kit for a little more kick
> 
> I do have a question..since my belt assembly is in the way and I cant see the auger bearing where it goes into the auger housing...anyone know if there is a grease fitting down there? I noticed it is getting slightly loose and I can wiggle it very slightly. Thinking maybe just needs a little grease or repacked? Most likely a new one may be in order i fear? Thoughts?


I say just as much Hp or even more. I replace a gutless 5hp Tecumseh with my Predator 6.5hp and it's an animal now. It throws snow nearly 50 feet and I went threw the eod berm and it chewed through it like it was not even there.


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## awg1983

I'm replacing the main jet to a .036 and the stock emulsion tube with a new "140 emulsion" tube


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## awg1983

So I put in the 140 emulsion tube and the .036 jet....at full throttle the engine runs rough and sounds like it is cutting out a little bit. Think the combination of both is too much? Maybe I need to put the stock emulsion tube back in?


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## HJames

Have you taken the foam filter out? When I drilled my jet I went a bit to far and removed the filter to try an increase the air flow, it worked for me. Worth a shot!!


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## awg1983

Ya may have helped slightly but not much.


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## awg1983

You know I have been reading posts on here..I see mention of rejetting and making the jets bigger...I see no indication of anyone replacing the emulsion tube which from googling has to do with the air/fuel ratio mixture...I did notice that the 140 tube has significant less holes except for the two in the collar they are significantly larger in compared to the original tube. Putting the original tube back in May be the key...it's probably running to rich now...


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## awg1983

Well changed the emulsion tube back to stock with the .036 jet...ran it for a few min. No different still ran rough. Pulled the foam out of the air cleaner. Then I pulled the plug it was black and could see a little bit of moisture on it. Maybe the .036 is too large? Honestly do I need to rejet it? I did notice when it sat outside in the cold it was harder to start about 6 or so pulls on the rope vs 1 or 2 when it was warm.


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## HJames

Alot of guys use them without rejetting, it may just run lean and surge without choke. If you want to try and drill out the original this chart will help. Stock is .28 and I have heard the most success stories at .32 without altering the air cleaner.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...lQSATfeqIZeFLjUd9jAX0Lw&bvm=bv.62577051,d.dmQ


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## awg1983

Ok. I'm going to have to think about the .32 now. I got up this morning and went out and started tinkering with it. To me it seems to run best with the larger emulsion tube which controls the air/fuel ratio. From what I read the new tube suppose to make it run richer due to less air being mixed in which is what I want. So the new tube and stock jet in my mind seem to ruin the best, I think better than stock. I did notice at full throttle it ran faster...not a whole lot but it is noticeable. I do still have the governor on the motor so it shouldn't over rev right? Any way to check rpm on it?


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## HJames

You can pick up a small engine tachometer for short money. Stock rpm with the governor is supposed to be 3600 but I have read in places that it will go to 3900 rpm, but over reving shouldn't be an issue with this motor until you get around 5000 rpm.


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## awg1983

I dont even know where to begin looking for something like that...any suggestions?


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## chrisexv6

awg1983 said:


> I dont even know where to begin looking for something like that...any suggestions?


Penny Hour meter Tachometer 2 & 4 Stroke Small Engine Spark For Boat Outboard Mercury : Amazon.com : Automotive

I have a few of these and they work well. Eventually die from exposure to weather, but for an initial set of the RPM and whatever life you can get out of them they are just fine.


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## Kiss4aFrog

If you already have an automotive timing light with a tack or tach that is inductive that will work on your small engine.
Or:
Digital Contact Tachometer

LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit


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## awg1983

Before I put the snowblower away last year. I added stable to the gas and drained the carb. Yesterday I went out turned the fuel on let it sit for 5 min and it started second pull and ran like a top. I run it around the drive a few times with no issues. Very pleased so far with this little motor!


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## Kiss4aFrog

Life is good


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## GustoGuy

HJames said:


> You can pick up a small engine tachometer for short money. Stock rpm with the governor is supposed to be 3600 but I have read in places that it will go to 3900 rpm, but over reving shouldn't be an issue with this motor until you get around 5000 rpm.


NR racing torture tested a stock HF Predator 212cc and at 5,500 rpms the engine tends to go into what is called valve float were the stock valve springs can't close the valves fast enough. You can buy stiffer valve springs that will handle 8000 rpms. The stock flywheel is not safe beyond 4000 rpms and for $100 you can get a billet aluminum one rated for 8500 rpms. Although the engine did not have a tendency to blow stock connecting rods NR RACING recommends a forged billet connecting rod that is over twice as strong as the stock rod. A stage 4 kit will allow up to 14 hp out of 212cc which is quite impressive being the engine is only being air cooled.


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