# Can anyone identify Model#?



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

Hello all, I have bought my very first snow blower. The drive sprocket is worn out and the wheels wont move under engine power.
I know what part I need to replace but I don't know how to get it!

My unit is a Craftsman II 11.0/30 but I cant find the model number. I was told it was on a sticker that is on the back of the main frame but there isn't a sticker there.

Here are some pictures to hopefully help identify my unit.










Engine 













































is this the serial number?


----------



## Colored Eggs (Dec 7, 2012)

Have you looked on the frame at the bottom of the engine. (right on top) that is where I found my model numbers however its a bit older than your unit so they do move them all over the place. Hopefully someone can id it for you or find the model number and then cross reference it to the manufacturer that built it for craftsman since they did not make their own machines.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The handlebars and gear shifter look like the Murray/Noma machines I see online.


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Its a 1998 model year machine, made in late '97.
Almost certaintly made by Murray.

Scot


----------



## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

Did a bit of searching on the web, and found this as a model number. 536881130. When plugged into the sears parts site, it comes up as a Craftsman 2, 11 hp, and a 30" path. Looks like most parts can be ordered. ---- John


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

What SHRYP and Scot said. Almost certainly a Murray. Have one similar to this one at our church. Has same controls. It's a Craftsman/Murray.


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

I went to the sears repair outlet here in Edmonton and the guy helped me find a couple different part numbers of the part I need (that may or may not be correct). It doesn't cost me a dime to get them shipped to the repair center from Toronto so I'll just have to bring in my shaft and compare before I pay the $50.

The only thing I have to deal with now is getting the thing apart...
It appears I have to split the main frame from the impeller/auger unit in order to take it apart. The issue with that is the previous owner was having problems with bolts coming loose and welded the unit together. I might haul it to my work (2 hours away) and cut it apart there.



sscotsman said:


> Its a 1998 model year machine, made in late '97.
> Almost certaintly made by Murray.
> 
> Scot


How do you know its a '98? Because the engine says it meets '95-'98 emissions?



Colored Eggs said:


> Have you looked on the frame at the bottom of the engine. (right on top)


Do you mean on top of the main frame right by the engine? I will check the next time I am at storage.

Thanks for all the help so far!


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

Waterlooboy2hp said:


> Did a bit of searching on the web, and found this as a model number. 536881130. When plugged into the sears parts site, it comes up as a Craftsman 2, 11 hp, and a 30" path. Looks like most parts can be ordered. ---- John



Are you talking about searspartsdirect? if so I cant order from there being in Canada. 
The part (#275 P/N 761789MA) Jackshaft under that model number (536881130) is the same as the one I am getting shipped! That makes me feel good.

Another question, how much do you guys think this is worth? its missing the crank to change the chute direction, it has 120V electric start and assuming I get it working... 

I payed $340 for it and the engine and auger run strong.


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Mykl8 said:


> How do you know its a '98? Because the engine says it meets '95-'98 emissions?


because of that, combined with the Tecumseh "D.O.M" number on the engine tag..(Date of Manufacture)..
That number, 7258, says the engine was assembled at Tecumseh on the 258th day of a year ending in 7. Unfortunately Tecumseh didnt use 2-digit years, so the "7" could be 1967, 1977, 1987 or 1997. (after 2000 they finally started using 2-digit years!)

We know its it's not 1967 or '77, because Tecumseh didn't say "DOM" then..they still used the same type of date code, but it was part of the serial number..but we have the only clue we need to know which "year ending in 7" it is: "meets '95-'98 emissions"..That tells us its 1997..

A snowblower built in the Summer or Autumn of 1997 would be considered a 1998 model year machine.

Scot


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

I am impressed dear Sir!


----------



## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Mykl8 said:


> The only thing I have to deal with now is getting the thing apart...
> It appears I have to split the main frame from the impeller/auger unit in order to take it apart. The issue with that is the previous owner was having problems with bolts coming loose and welded the unit together. I might haul it to my work (2 hours away) and cut it apart there.


Can you borrow an angle grinder with a zip cut disc and cut the welds?
Or go to Canadian Tire and buy one for $25? That seems easier than carting the machine around.
JMHO

Larry


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

I work from my company truck and I have an air compressor with a air grinder/zip cut but its -15 here and I'd rather do it somewhere warm. No garage for me


----------



## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Oh I get that!


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

Updates!!!
So Thanks for the help everyone, with the numbers I got from here I managed to order 2 gearshafts. once they came in I compared to the one in my blower and bought the right one for just over $50.

I braved the weather and managed to break the blower down enough to fit into the service box in my work truck. I brought it up to camp with me and cut it apart and ripped its guts out lol. These things were not built to be fixed very easily. I had to take out everything from the gearbox in order to get one bolt out that holds the bushing for the gearshaft I needed to change.

Here's the old vs. new








New Gearshaft in 









Here the shaft is back in and you can see the bolt (circled in red) that you cant get out unless you remove the drive engage linkage shaft









Drive plate back in 









Found a crack









Welded crack









Speed selector shaft in 









Mostly back together, I 'm going to have to order a new engagement wheel and an axle bushing.









Any guesses on the belt size here? I think its a 4L 370. I might go with a A belt, from what I've researched 4L is the same as a A groove but it has a lower torque rating. Also 4L belts are measured on the OD so this belt would be 37" long and A belts are measured on the ID and are 2" less than the number so I think a A35 would be a replacement... Can anyone confirm this? I will most likely go with AX belts.









I cant wait to get home and finish putting my bower back together so I can test it out!!!


----------



## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Nice work mykl. I think you called it right with 4L370. Good choice going with an A belt.


----------



## darcy32171 (Nov 28, 2013)

You paid what? So, that sprocket could not have been taken out by standing the blower on its nose? I have a 2003 Murray and just changed the friction disk, there is alot of room. You never had the bottom panel?


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

darcy32171 said:


> You paid what? So, that sprocket could not have been taken out by standing the blower on its nose? I have a 2003 Murray and just changed the friction disk, there is alot of room. You never had the bottom panel?


I payed what for what? The sprocket on the searspartsdirect is $43.35US and I payed $53.54Can.

On my model you have to take out a lot of parts and one of the first ones is the pulley that drives the gearbox. In order to pull it off you need to separate the gearbox from the impeller housing. There just isn't enough room between both pulleys. I will be changing the friction disc ASAP as well and that I can remove with everything assembled.

I do not have the bottom cover and it's $50 just for a piece of stamped sheet metal. If I have time I will make one out of tin sheet. We have lots of that up here for insulation covers on piping


----------



## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

if you are interested get me the bottom pan part number. I have an 8.5 26 inch craftsman I am parting out. you can have the pan if it is the right one for the shipping costs.


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

Here is a link to the bottom cover Shop Parts by Part Number | Parts for part # 583031-853 | Parts.Sears.com

The part number is 583031E701MA


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

Finally had warm enough weather where I wasn't couching my lungs out to put my blower together, hah!

At first it kept blowing the belt off because I had a wave washer on the wrong side of the pulley. Once I fixed that this sucker blows snow like crazy!

One thing I did notice is there isn't any air filter... I cant find any in the parts diagram here www.searspartsdirect.com

Does anyone know if these came with air filters?


----------



## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

there generally no air filters on snow blowers. no dust around when its snowing. A few have had them with no problems, others have added them and had the snow stick to it and choke the motor.


----------



## Mykl8 (Nov 22, 2013)

Ahh, makes sense! I've heard of some cars/trucks' air filters getting dusted with snow and choking off the air supply. 

Thanks for the quick reply!

Mike


----------

