# Toro Find....BUT...



## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

As I mentioned a few weeks ago, I ventured to Western Mass. to pick up a Toro 832 along with a single stage and a lawnmower....all for the price of gas. Sold the lawnmower, and have the single stage ready to go in the fall. Now working on the 832.

Finally got the two flat tires to hold air, and also see some welds on the right wheel clutch teeth. This machine should be steerable, but the wheels are locked. So, no freewheel ability. 

Don't think I have spark, so I'll need to check that out. Someone also cut the carb heater box, so all I can see on the model is the last two numbers (02), with Type of 0180 01 and Code of 7005081. 

Anyone got an idea of what model this may be? I want to find a manual and get this machine going again...


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

it is a 1971 TORO. they are jaw hubs. and they have long been discontinued. as with the bronze clutch. GO TO TORO.COM under parts enter the model number.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Thanks Powershift93. Any chance you can guess what the model number is for that 1971 832? 

All I can see is the last two digits of the model # (02). And I do have spark, so tomorrow I'm gonna put in fresh oil and put some gas in the tank and see if I can get it to run.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

OK -- Found the model # at Toro.Com -- 81832 which correlates with 1971. Now all I've got to do is find an operators manual for it. I'll look more tomorrow. 



gsnod said:


> Thanks Powershift93. Any chance you can guess what the model number is for that 1971 832?
> 
> All I can see is the last two digits of the model # (02). And I do have spark, so tomorrow I'm gonna put in fresh oil and put some gas in the tank and see if I can get it to run.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

doesn't toro have the manual at toro.com/
just checked and nothing for a manual but i don't see much difference in your 832 and my 826 other than the bucket and there is a manual for the 826


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Thanks detdrbuzzard -- I'll take a look for a manual that also has information on the locking hubs. 

I changed the oil tonight, and since I have spark, I put some gas in the tank and pulled the t-handle. First pull, it stated right up. Tried to get some forward or reverse movement, but nothing. Something to work on later. 

The auger spins great, and boy, what a bunch of airflow out of the chute when the auger is spinning. 

More to work on later, but all is well so far!



detdrbuzzard said:


> doesn't toro have the manual at toro.com/
> just checked and nothing for a manual but i don't see much difference in your 832 and my 826 other than the bucket and there is a manual for the 826


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Powershift93 -- I'm confident I made a mistake....the model number of this 1971 Toro is a 31832. I also saw in another thread that I probably need to clean and lube the clutch to try and get it working again. 

If I can get the left clutch to lock and release, that will give me steerable movement, as well as both wheel drive. Right now, both wheels are locked and move as obne unit. As a reminder, the right side wheel clutch is welded together, so I can't even get the rim off of the axle.



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> it is a 1971 TORO. they are jaw hubs. and they have long been discontinued. as with the bronze clutch. GO TO TORO.COM under parts enter the model number.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

toro might have your manual, i used the model number you gave 81832. look in the toro section on our board, there is a service manual there that might help you


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

USE the 1972 8-32 31832 as it is the same machine. TORO only goes to 1972 online manuals. if those clutch and jaw hub have been welded together just let it be. you would rather have posi-traction than a one wheel wonder.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

gsnod said:


> Powershift93 -- I'm confident I made a mistake....the model number of this 1971 Toro is a 31832. I also saw in another thread that I probably need to clean and lube the clutch to try and get it working again.
> 
> If I can get the left clutch to lock and release, that will give me steerable movement, as well as both wheel drive. Right now, both wheels are locked and move as obne unit. As a reminder, the right side wheel clutch is welded together, so I can't even get the rim off of the axle.


post pic's so I can see what is going on.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Here ya go POWERSHIFT93. 

This is the clutch that is not welded (on the left side). Should the clutch move in and out when you pull up or down on the dash lever? I get minimal movement. I would think the meshing of the teeth from the wheel and clutch would lock the wheels, and if they weren't meshed, then the wheel would freewheel. That's the action I would like to have....the ability to freewheel for maneuverability, and lock when you need solid two wheel drive. 

Any suggestions?



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> post pic's so I can see what is going on.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

when u pull the lever up and down the clutch moves in and out. it does not need a lot of travel. there are bolts that hold the clutch in that ring along with a spring and a hook that bolts to the frame. is all that stuff there??????when the lever is down the clutch is engaged to the jaw hub on the wheel. get me a pic of that jaw hub on the wheel to... when it is not locked in there that will let u freewheel the machine.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

OK -- Took the wheel off and pulled off the clutch; took everything apart from the axle. Took out the key in the axle and greased everything up. Everything moves well, but for the life of me, I can't get the wheel;s teeth to move away from the axle teeth when I pull the lever up. 

The attached picture is the wheel and teeth before I cleaned everything up. 



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> when u pull the lever up and down the clutch moves in and out. it does not need a lot of travel. there are bolts that hold the clutch in that ring along with a spring and a hook that bolts to the frame. is all that stuff there??????when the lever is down the clutch is engaged to the jaw hub on the wheel. get me a pic of that jaw hub on the wheel to... when it is not locked in there that will let u freewheel the machine.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

*Still the Toro 31832....*

Here's a picture of the handle being in the up position, which (should) unlock the clutch on the axle from the wheel. This was after cleaning everything.

Looking at this picture....I wonder if someone before me took this apart, and put the clutch into the sleeve backwards...by taking out the set screw? Hmm....I ask as I see the outer red piece moving, yet see no movement of the clutch on the shaft.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

gsnod said:


> Here's a picture of the handle being in the up position, which (should) unlock the clutch on the axle from the wheel. This was after cleaning everything.
> 
> Looking at this picture....I wonder if someone before me took this apart, and put the clutch into the sleeve backwards...by taking out the set screw? Hmm....I ask as I see the outer red piece moving, yet see no movement of the clutch on the shaft.


The wire hook retainer is off in this picture and not pulling the pivot bracket back. Did it snap out of position or removed unintentionally? If it snapped off, there is binding of the clutch half on the axle shaft. Just my opinion.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

This is an old post\reply by Powerwrench that might help with your problem.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/toro-snowblowers/8290-old-school-726-toro-model-see-pic.html


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Thanks Grunt -- I intentionally took off the hook retainer, and can easily put it back on. I know it bolts onto the machine and hooks into the pivot bracket, and I'm guessing it's role is to hold the bracket onto the shaft?

The wheel only has a bit of free play before it runs into the cotter pin on the end of the shaft (that holds the wheel on the shaft). It seems like the pivot bracket and clutch is also sitting against the frame. Based upon that amount of space, I don't see enough room for the two sets of clutch teeth to separate and allow for the freewheeling. 

That's whats got me stymied! 



Grunt said:


> The wire hook retainer is off in this picture and not pulling the pivot bracket back. Did it snap out of position or removed unintentionally? If it snapped off, there is binding of the clutch half on the axle shaft. Just my opinion.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

check inside there are levers in there to. one of pins might be gone.. the inside of those machines to get to that stuff is tight quarters for working on.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

I do not know what is going on with my internet. I edited the last one and it did not take. you are missing some thing inside that is why it is not going to move right. you will have to pull the bottom apart to get to those lever inside down by the clutch. get my point????? let me know


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

I'll pull the bottom pan tomorrow and see what it looks like inside the machine. I guess the only good thing about this issue is that the right side wheel (which is welded to the clutch piece that slides on the shaft) will always be locked in place. So, in theory, if I have parts from the right, perhaps they will work on the left side if I'm missing something. 

We'll continue this challenge tomorrow! 

Thanks All!



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> I do not know what is going on with my internet. I edited the last one and it did not take. you are missing some thing inside that is why it is not going to move right. you will have to pull the bottom apart to get to those lever inside down by the clutch. get my point????? let me know


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

take that on off and all apart and BLACK GREASE THE SNOT OUT OF IT. any year 72-74 parts diagram will work. they are all the same setup.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> take that on off and all apart and BLACK GREASE THE SNOT OUT OF IT.


When you say "Black Grease" are you talking about something specific or just wheel bearing grease


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

OK -- Took the bottom pan off to check the linkage. All is well in there, and everything is connected. Attached is a picture with the pull handles for the clutches pulled up, which means the clutch teeth should not be engaged. I also have the wire disconnected to the body, as the bolt holds both the bottom pan and the wire to the side frame. Even hooked to the frame, these wires do not help with the release of the clutch teeth from each other. 

On the right hand side wheel, you can see the weld, holding the wheel to the main clutch piece. I see no movement of the left side clutch on the shaft....nor do I see much room for movement unless I take the cotter pin out of the axle, and then there is nothing to hold the wheel onto the shaft. 

I need to think more about this, but might simply end up having an always in dual-drive machine. This will be difficult to manuaver, but better than nothing! 

And yep, Kiss4aFrog asks a good question as to the grease....



Kiss4aFrog said:


> When you say "Black Grease" are you talking about something specific or just wheel bearing grease


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i would leave it as a dual drive. also, it there is a lot of pitting on that friction plate, i would sandblast it because if you dont it will shred up that disk and new ones you put on in no time. does the engine run?


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> When you say "Black Grease" are you talking about something specific or just wheel bearing grease





43128 said:


> i would leave it as a dual drive. also, it there is a lot of pitting on that friction plate, i would sandblast it because if you dont it will shred up that disk and new ones you put on in no time. does the engine run?


Thanks 43128 -- I definitely need to work on that friction plate. Yep, the engine does run very strongly and the auger turns very well. I have three issues to resolve -- the locked wheel, which I've been working on, a carb leak that probably needs a rebuild, and drive linkage adjustments to get the disc drive to touch the friction plate. I'll work on smoothing the friction plate before I try and put it into gear....


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Those poor innards !! That friction disc shaft looks like it hasn't seen oil since I was a kid !! I've always wondered on a friction disc that is steel could you cut a circular piece and tack it on to give it a smooth surface? Has anyone tried ??


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

I agree Kiss4aFrog - Based upon the amount of weeds that I've pulled from the innards, I know the machine was sitting outside from quite a time. I'll see if I can pull the friction plate off and sand it down smooth. Probably best to replace the disc also...


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

gsnod said:


> OK -- Took the bottom pan off to check the linkage. All is well in there, and everything is connected. Attached is a picture with the pull handles for the clutches pulled up, which means the clutch teeth should not be engaged. I also have the wire disconnected to the body, as the bolt holds both the bottom pan and the wire to the side frame. Even hooked to the frame, these wires do not help with the release of the clutch teeth from each other.
> 
> On the right hand side wheel, you can see the weld, holding the wheel to the main clutch piece. I see no movement of the left side clutch on the shaft....nor do I see much room for movement unless I take the cotter pin out of the axle, and then there is nothing to hold the wheel onto the shaft.
> 
> ...


 I am talking about the stuff that you use on grease fitting on HEAVY EQUIPMENT I forget the proper name I am sure kissafrog will post a pic of it.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

gsnod said:


> OK -- Took the bottom pan off to check the linkage. All is well in there, and everything is connected. Attached is a picture with the pull handles for the clutches pulled up, which means the clutch teeth should not be engaged. I also have the wire disconnected to the body, as the bolt holds both the bottom pan and the wire to the side frame. Even hooked to the frame, these wires do not help with the release of the clutch teeth from each other.
> 
> On the right hand side wheel, you can see the weld, holding the wheel to the main clutch piece. I see no movement of the left side clutch on the shaft....nor do I see much room for movement unless I take the cotter pin out of the axle, and then there is nothing to hold the wheel onto the shaft.
> 
> ...


 take the clutch assembly of and go through the whole thing give me pic's of it. some thing is binding up in there. what is it doing again. the teeth will not go in what direction again??????????? pm me if you have to


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

take the whole thing off and polish the axle with 400 grit sand paper. take the clutch out of the stir up. post pic's of that.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> I am talking about the stuff that you use on grease fitting on HEAVY EQUIPMENT I forget the proper name I am sure kissafrog will post a pic of it.


Well, I love a good show and tell but I'm still a little lost on what product you're talking about. You come up with a name and I'll try to get a picture and or supplier. 

When you said "black grease" I just wasn't sure if you were referring to some specific product or something specific to snow blowers. Wasn't picking on you just trying to learn.
I use Mobil1 synthetic grease. See photo below:
.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Took the whole clutch piece off and polished everything up. Took everything apart and greased it up, and everything rotates well. My problem is I don't understand how this clutch system works. I don't see any movement of the clutch piece on the shaft, and into the wheel teeth. 



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> take the whole thing off and polish the axle with 400 grit sand paper. take the clutch out of the stir up. post pic's of that.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

When you operate the control up on the handle it should move the rod coming down inside the transmission. It's attached through a couple pivots to the red ring that is around the piece on the axle shaft with the cogged teeth that engages the cogged teeth on the steel wheel. 
Operate the handle and that ring should retract and disengage the cogged drive piece from the wheel leaving it to free wheel on the axle.

But I think you already knew that so I'm still confused what you were asking.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Thanks Kiss4aFrog. Yep, understand the basics of the lever from the upper control rod on the dash. Just don't see any way the two cogged pieces move away from each other to allow freewheeling. The clutches (both) slide easily on the shaft, yet neither, ncluding the one in the pivot circle move on the shaft. The pivot point swivils when the control rod is pulled/pushed up or down, but I get no sliding of either cogged piece on the shaft. 

Oh well, perhaps the locked wheels will be the way I make it work.

Sorry for the four pages of content on this topic guys.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Well, I love a good show and tell but I'm still a little lost on what product you're talking about. You come up with a name and I'll try to get a picture and or supplier.
> 
> When you said "black grease" I just wasn't sure if you were referring to some specific product or something specific to snow blowers. Wasn't picking on you just trying to learn.
> I use Mobil1 synthetic grease. See photo below:
> .


 YEAHHHHHHHHHHH that will work to.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Well, I love a good show and tell but I'm still a little lost on what product you're talking about. You come up with a name and I'll try to get a picture and or supplier.
> 
> When you said "black grease" I just wasn't sure if you were referring to some specific product or something specific to snow blowers. Wasn't picking on you just trying to learn.
> I use Mobil1 synthetic grease. See photo below:
> .


Castrol MP GREASE.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

WITH the handle down the clutch locks into the jaw hub. when you put the machine in gear that all becomes one and turns the wheels. the clutch only turns when in gear via the axle. as long as you can connect and disconnect the power to the wheels. from the looks of the picture that has been won and done. the freewheeling is said because with the handles down and in N position it is a pain to push.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

THE theory are right. but because some one before you got cute and welded the other side. it has screwed it up for good because there is no longer the right end play in it for the clutches to work. MOZEL TOV you have a forever POSITIVE DRIVE snow blower. but this is good because a one wheel wonder BLOWS BIG TIME in the heavy stuff.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

gsnod said:


> Sorry for the four pages of content on this topic guys.


As many pages as it takes for someone to solve it for you  We've got all the space in the world.

I think one page just went to trying to figure out that black grease was Castrol MP 
.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

gsnod said:


> Thanks Kiss4aFrog. Yep, understand the basics of the lever from the upper control rod on the dash. Just don't see any way the two cogged pieces move away from each other to allow freewheeling. The clutches (both) slide easily on the shaft, yet neither, including the one in the pivot circle move on the shaft. The pivot point swivels when the control rod is pulled/pushed up or down, but I get no sliding of either cogged piece on the shaft.
> 
> Oh well, perhaps the locked wheels will be the way I make it work.
> 
> Sorry for the four pages of content on this topic guys.


I restored a Toro 7/26 four years ago for my son-in-law with the same drive setup you have. If I get a chance this weekend, I will take some pictures of the wheel locks to help jog my memory on how they disengage. Keep this thread going and all of us should be able to offer advice on how to correct your problem.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Tried to take a video and couldn't get it to upload. Got the drive system working when I replaced a broken pin in the large gear to the axle. My choices now are either having the machine always in two wheel drive, or having the left wheel freewheel, which does make it easier to maneuver. I still don't understand how the clutch engages/disengages from the wheel. 

The shaft is slimmer on the end and the wheel can only slide on so far. So I figure the clutch surrounded by the orbit must be the part that moves on the shaft, as it must slide away from the body and the teeth engage the wheel teeth. I do get movement of the clutch orbit when pulling the shift handle up or down, but only the orbit. No slide on the shaft from the clutch itself. The key is on the shaft and in the slot on the clutch piece. No binding there at all. 

Any last minute suggestions? After I rebuild the carb to fix a leak, I do plan to put it up on craigslist....I'd like to give the new owner the ability to have one of the clutches working. If I can't get it fixed, is the consensus to simply have it always in 2 wheel drive? 



Grunt said:


> I restored a Toro 7/26 four years ago for my son-in-law with the same drive setup you have. If I get a chance this weekend, I will take some pictures of the wheel locks to help jog my memory on how they disengage. Keep this thread going and all of us should be able to offer advice on how to correct your problem.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

And a follow-up question. This same blower is missing the rear shield -- part number 10-0240. This is not the bottom of the unit shield...instead the one that is in line with your shins, and has two slots at the top for the linkage...

Besides the visual lack of presence, do I NEED to put one on there? I understand that it's more likely that snow will enter the area..


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

gsnod said:


> And a follow-up question. This same blower is missing the rear shield -- part number 10-0240. This is not the bottom of the unit shield...instead the one that is in line with your shins, and has two slots at the top for the linkage...
> 
> Besides the visual lack of presence, do I NEED to put one on there? I understand that it's more likely that snow will enter the area..


 NO!!!!!!!!


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## cfuller3 (Jan 8, 2016)

As I see it, he'll always be able to turn in one direction......... only. Certainly can't steer easily, but that's not as difficult as turning around.


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