# Honda HS50 long term project question



## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

I am working on a Honda HS50 Track Drive, basically stripping it down to the frame to repair and clean after a long term mouse invasion. This has been and will continue to be a long term project (multiple months).
Here’s the question, can I leave it tipped up on the auger for a long period of time? I haven’t decided if I want/need to remove the engine at this point.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks.
The pic attached was just after picking it up and giving it an initial while down.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Follow up to the above, can I keep it standing like this long term or should I always set it back down on the tracks (they’re off right now but you know what I mean)
Thanks again.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I think that jackmels keeps a couple dozen in the service position almost indefinitely.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I'll usually run it with gas off until it stalls and then put it in this position for days. have worked on dozens of 50's so will be watching your progress. taking the 50 engine off is actually a pain compared to the other Honda's. the only time i did it was to transfer a great engine to another 50 chassis that had a good drive. otherwise i would have left it on.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

orangputeh, thanks for the reply. 
I got it off of Craigslist, couldn't resist it despite never working on a Honda blower and after reading many posts that parts can be difficult to find for this model.
I have already stripped and rebuilt the engine while it was mounted to the frame [replace head gasket, clean the head, new ignition coil (points were shot), spark, new carb, and replace starter recoil rope]. It runs great now. I took pix along the way if you're curious.
I have rebuilt many blowers and machines in the past and currently use a 1994 Noma 9-27 blower [absolute beast], though I didn't use it at all this winter [I'm in Connecticut]. So I am in no rush to complete the Honda, it's something to keep me busy, yes I'm a tinker.
In any case, this seems to be the most over-engineered machine I have ever worked on, but to be honest it's pretty damn cool [to me anyway]. My two daughters refer to it as "Dad's snow tank."
I am currently working on the drive [auger works fine and only needs some de-rusting if you will].
Maybe you can give me some insight on my current issue. 
As I am sure you are very familiar, the drive plate rotates to make contact with the stationary drive wheel. But, on this one, when the drive engage handle is released it doesn't release enough for the plate to spin freely and still makes contact, but only in 3rd gear, first gear is fine [1/8"-1/4" or so clearance in first], it's as if the plate is tipped out of plane. My plan was to remove everything [transmission and drive], then clean, repair and test as I went. Can you offer any insight as to where I should focus to repair the plate issue? I can post pix if that would be helpful.
I should note that when I got it the entire interior was packed with a former mouse city which got into everything, and I mean everything, when I took off the bottom plate it was like when you open a wall with blown-in loose insulation. It also seems like it was put in a shed for the last 20 years or more as everything was covered with a thick coat of dirt, dust, etc. 
I'd be more than happy to keep you updated on the progress, happy to find a kindred spirit so to speak as my family thinks I'm crazy [this is not the fist time I brought home an old machine and rebuilt it] but they are happy to let me tinker in the workshop with my "projects." 
Thanks again.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

Dave: that type of crazy fits in well here. I am a tinker-er as well on snowblowers, just not yet a Honda. Orangputeh and others can certainly help, and I would love to see pics along the way.

tx


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Dave, it may be as simple as an adjustment. since you now belong to SA ( snowblowers anonymous ) I highly recommend you buy the shop manual from the Honda website about $43. In it are the adjustments for the drive such as tension, friction disk adjustment , speed , etc. It's pretty straight forward but difficult to explain without pictures. 

If the adjustments don't work ( they usually do ) I am hoping it'snot a defective final drive. I have taken apart many right side gearboxes on hydrostatic models since parts are available and can be rebuilt. I do have a friend that rebuilt a gearbox on a 50 by welding up the spindle and gear and then filing it down so they will mesh right. Just TOO MUCH work for me haha. 

around here I pick up 50's cheap or free. the problem as you know is some parts are no longer available and if the final drive gearbox goes bad ( usually a stripped gear or spindle ) you are SOL. I have had beautiful 50's with a bad gearbox and just transfer everything to a good driving chassis. 

ya, would love to see pictures. did you do a compression check or a leak down test before tearing into engine?


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

*orangputeh, *thanks for the reply.
It appears that the gearbox is fine, everything meshes and turns correctly and smoothly from the "disc" down the line to the treads, tread gearing seems smooth and clean, no grinding, no slippage. I have no reason to believe any of the transfer gears are bad. I believe you are correct and the drive plate just needs adjustment. There are so many adjustments in this machine it's crazy, my Noma is about as straightforward as can be in regards to power transfer from the engine to the auger/drive, this thing has me guessing everything. My current issue is, as I have it nearly torn down to the frame anyway, do I disassemble everything and verify the gearing is good, to be honest, I'll definitely tear it down to the gears, like I said, long term project. Not sure what you mean when you say "final drive gearbox" to me there are three different gearboxes [lol] do you mean the one directly behind the friction plate [I am assuming there is something there, but haven't gotten back that far for fear of not knowing the system well enough to put it back the right way even with the parts diagram], or the one on the left side of the frame underneath tied in with the tread drive, or do you mean the one mounted on the front of the engine that transfers the drive line? When the drive system is turned by hand [from either end [belt side, or track axle side] it all turns freely and again, without any grinding or slipping that I notice.
I should also say that it was completely infested with mice and dirt and to be honest, cleaning with WD-40 and a toothbrush in all the nooks and crannies as well as working it into all of the many moving parts has done most of the wonders. 
On a sad note, I did break the reverse thread screw on the right side of the track tension bar/axle. It was smooth turning until it wasn't, I think it was initially set bad or was so jacked up with rust and dirt that it locked and I proceeded to remove the head and about 1/2" of thread. So currently drilling that out, which has been very fun. Perhaps someone has an extra rear track axle that is taking up too much space in the workshop, I did find one on eBay, but I'm willing to sacrifice a few more bits to the cause, even if it's a losing one.
Regarding the engine, I did not check anything, I assumed from the beginning it was an electrical issue. I replaced the carb completely [choke was broken on original, not worth saving], any insight on the filter that goes in the bell at the end of the carb? the only thing I found close to the design was out of England or Austrailia. Pulled everything I could off the engine block, verified the piston was clean, no damage or scrapes in the piston chamber, smooth action on the valves, cleaned the hell out of it. Interesting head gasket, more metal than what I am used to on the old Tecumseh's. Found a new one on eBay and installed, little pipe dope on the anchor screws, torque them down, done. The engine was actually in good shape, the points were bad and not generating a spark, I replaced the whole ignition coil [again, found on eBay] and spark plug and plug top, getting the points in the right set-off was a bit of a nuisance, just due to location and me not taking the handlebars off. Then broke the pull line so that got a new cord. Fired right up after that. The muffler was very wet, with god knows what packed inside it, so that smoked for a while but in the end, very happy with the engine.
Here's a question for you, does the auger by design throw snow well, wet/heavy snow? As I plan to disassemble the auger system, sand down the rust and repaint/seal, should I add the rubber [whatever they're called] pieces to the throw blades? I attached a pic looking down into the barrell. Again, being I'm going in there anyway, if it was worthwhile to add them I would do it at that time. Thoughts from prior/current owners?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

wow. lot to read.

the final drive gearbox is the one on the inside side of engine bed. ( drives the tracks from other tranny )

the free axle or tension bar as u call it can be repaired. either take off and remove broken bolt and replace with a carriage bolt or try to remove broken bolt ( inframe ) by sanding/grinding head ( I use a 1inch 18 inch electric sander by Wen ). sand/grind head of bolt and then punch out. replace with carriage bolt.

since you are tearing down , yes good idea to install impeller kit with rubber flaps. try to measure approx from end of fan to housing. I install them a little longer and then try to set impeller into housing. usually have to use a flap disk on a grinder to sand them down so it will fit it . Be sure to lubricate inside of housing with something. dawn dish soap and water works well when you are breaking the flaps in. I just barely turn the impeller with engine on and then go a little faster and faster until I can go full speed.It only takes about 30 seconds to break them it. You may see rubber flying out the chute. That's normal.

so when they are broke in , it should almost create a seal. barely touching the housing or a tiny clearance. You dont want the impeller to drag.

hopefully you just need to make those 3 adjustments that I mentioned before to get the gears working and the speed right. I do this with every service on the older HS50-55-70-80 that has the friction disk.

very common that one or all 3 adjustments are out. it's really hard to explain the adjustments in writing. Pictures are easier which are in the shop manual.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

*@orangputeh, *again, thanks for the reply and info.
Once I get around to the auger work I will start dealing with the impeller kit.
However, my current issue is still at hand with the free axle, I attached a pic of the tension bar so I am sure we're talking about the same thing. It's the reverse screw [left side] that I broke. I've tried every bit I can lay my hands on and a few older ones and I just cant get through it, assuming it's stainless steel, I've never had an issue like this with a bolt, I've removed many of them. In any case, most likely going to just find/buy a complete replacement, again, any leads would be helpful, but I think I saw one on EBay.


















Now, in regards to the final drive, which seems to be the part that, if it goes, it's done as a usable machine [unless you find a donor machine]. First, I want to make sure I'm looking at the correct item, again, pic of me pointing at it









without me pointing at it:









and finally, a pic of the underside.








As I am most likely calling everything by the wrong name let me run through what I call everything so you can correct me. I call the silver horizontal disc in the center of the underside the "drive plate", and the drive wheel [coated black vertical wheel]. Just so we're speaking the same language, I am the foreigner in this situation so by all means corrections of terminology will not be taken as criticism. I should mention now that I farted around with some of the adjustments and as previously stated, cleaned the hell out of everything with WD40 and a toothbrush and I have an overall clearance of about 1/8" from the drive wheel to the drive plate in all gears and very smooth action from the gear box down to the drive wheel. What keeps throwing me is that on most of the machines I have worked on the drive wheel moves to engage the drive plate, but on this one it is the other way around, pulling the lever rotates the plate to engage the wheel, is that more common than I am thinking, just a rhetorical question there really.
So, getting back to the final drive. Would I be able to tell without disassembly if there was an issue? As stated it spins freely, not grinding or slippage. also, is it as difficult as it looks to get it out of there? If its one of those things where it just goes [gear, gear bushing?] then it's done, would you recommend tearing it down now, or let 'er ride and when she goes she goes?
I guess at this point I have to interject a little about me and the machines I rebuild to ask you one final question for today. I thank you for making it this far and hope you continue. The thing is projects like this are mainly a time killer for me as I like to take things apart, repair them, and put them back together. Then I get bored of whatever it is that I rebuilt or don't need it anymore and I sell it or give it away. When I start a project I have a few rules to keep the cost down. The first rule is it has to be something I need [snowblower], or something that's just too cool not get [mini bike, quad, go-cart] and the price has to be under $150 [snowblower/leaf blower] $500 [Quad, Dirt bike] this is often debatable, but I do stick with teh $150 or less for any equipment. Second, I can never spend more [in materials] than I could replace it for new [labor is always free and out of the cost equation]. Third, I must be able to repair it myself, without outside or professional help and do all maintenance. Now I have some machines that are old, like my compressor [Curtis 1016] where if the air pump broke it would be useless, other pieces can break [belts, air connections] which are general maintenance items, but in a sense, with basic maintenance and use, it will last forever. 
So, in a roundabout way I guess what I'm asking is this, is it worth repairing the HS50? What can I reasonably expect from the final drive? Is it a slow painful death, or a quick one? Can you baby the machine and not worry about it or is a final drive loss an inevitability? I look at it this way, if I drop another $100-150 into it, paint it, and have use out of it for at least 10 years, I'll complete the project. But, if it's something that's going to happen relatively quickly with normal use [my driveway is 100'x7' smooth asphalt], I'm going to think about pulling the plug on the project now.
Sorry for the ramble, hope it was somewhat enjoyable... or I will accept my ban from the forum with grace.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

first the free axle. i thought you were talking about one of the tension adjustment bolts.

you broke the mounting bolt trying to remove? I would soak it with penetrating oil . perhaps apply some heat and try to use an EZ out to back out rest of bolt.

it's work it because these free axles are expensive on ebay unless you can find a cheap or free doner machine.

i'll get to the rest of your post after I drink a 12 pack.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

*@orangputeh, *again, thanks for the reply, lol.
I did us both a favor and did a parts search to help solve my current dilemma with the rebuild. I would take the final drive apart to check it out, replacement is about $100 depending on what's broken or looking bad. But, I can't find a replacement gasket for reassembly. I am reasonably sure that I will render the gasket unusable after I disassemble it, maybe not, but odds are good. Can I cut a new gasked out of some rubber material to act as a gasket? It doesn't seem like it needs to be completely water tight or fitted exactly.
In any case, still on the fence about doing a nice overhaul of the machine, given my criteria above it is both useful and very cool. Thoughts are going from "put it back together and dump it" to meh, could still be fun, and it is really cool.
Enjoy those beers.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Northeast Dave said:


> *@orangputeh, *again, thanks for the reply, lol.
> I did us both a favor and did a parts search to help solve my current dilemma with the rebuild. I would take the final drive apart to check it out, replacement is about $100 depending on what's broken or looking bad. But, I can't find a replacement gasket for reassembly. I am reasonably sure that I will render the gasket unusable after I disassemble it, maybe not, but odds are good. Can I cut a new gasked out of some rubber material to act as a gasket? It doesn't seem like it needs to be completely water tight or fitted exactly.
> In any case, still on the fence about doing a nice overhaul of the machine, given my criteria above it is both useful and very cool. Thoughts are going from "put it back together and dump it" to meh, could still be fun, and it is really cool.
> Enjoy those beers.


where did u find parts to repair that final drive tranny? ( if needed)


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

IMO and it's only mine, it's not worth repairing a HS50 that needs major repairs. your drive wheel ( friction disk ) should NOT have any clearance in the gears except neutral. My guess it needs an adjustment.

the only way to tell if anything is wrong with the final drive is to make sure all adjustments are correct and test drive it with engine running thru the gears.

I have one that I put on nose, removed belly plate and with engine off ( of course ) put it in each gear and turned tracks. It APPEARED to work fine in each gear but when tested with machine on it only worked in 2 gears. It was slipping /slightly grinding in the 2 other gears under operating conditions suggesting a worn spindle ( NLA) or perhaps something else worn not letting gears line up maybe.

In any case, it's not worth my time because I can not find replacement parts. What I do is find a donor machine with a good final drive and the rest of tranny parts and make one good machine out of two . Maybe transferring the engine/bucket /augers etc. or just using the best parts from both.

these 50's sell for 50-650 depending on condition. I sold one last week for 650 but it was a 9 out of 10 which is rare. Most 50's are not worth the time. The shops around here wont even work on the old friction disk Honda's because some parts are NLA ( no longer available from Honda. )

Did I already suggest getting the Honda shop manual? That shows how to properly make those adjustments.

good luck..........off to Vegas.


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## Toats MaGoats (Feb 19, 2019)

This is epic info. Thank you thank you thank you NE Dave!!! I have a wonderful HS55K2 and rebuilt/maintained a bit of it and love the little beast so seeing you do it as well is awesome but to much more in depth and with pics, no less. Thanks you!!!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

So after much deliberation with myself and weighing out the pros and cons of the situation I have decided to continue the work on the HS50, My other thought was just to start parting it out, but what fun is that? It is by far the most interesting machine I have worked on and frankly, I need something to do.
So, my next step is to remove everything down to the final gear to verify it is in good order and replace as necessary [as Orangputeh states, many parts are NLA], but with the internet, if you seek you shall find.

Moving right along... Next step, get into the final gear and make sure it's clean, working, etc.









I thought I could just start by removing the friction disk shaft and work my way down, but I cant get the bolt out of the end of the shaft [just behind the top of the spring in the pic] and am afraid of breaking another bolt.









The other side of the friction disk shaft ends in a very interesting rubber cover shown here between the two upper bolts.








so, I loosened the transmission to see how it went together and found the the disk holder shaft has a removable cover that I can slide the shaft out once the cover is off, shown here just above the wheel shaft.








But I can't slide the shaft out until I can disconnect the friction disk boss, which seems to be held in place with a spring pin.
This is where I stopped for the night. I am thinking it would be best to remove the engine and auger assembly so I can put the whole damn think on the work bench. Hardest part for me with that is keeping everything organized. Also going to replace a lot of the corroded screws along the way.
I'll keep posting progress as some seem to be enjoying the read and I am sure others who have rebuilt one before are enjoying the comedy I am providing.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Glad you are proceeding with the restoration Dave. I very much enjoy these restoration threads, especially with lots of descriptive photos along the way.I'm not familiar with Hondas, so looking forward to learning more about these older legendary blowers. Take lot's of photos to help with reassembly. Good luck with the project.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks Ziggy65, this is my first Honda [snowblower] so we're both in the same boat. Glad you're enjoying. I am sure my comments will be interesting as the amount of time I work on the Honda is in direct correlation to the amount of beer I drink doing it, so if I update the thread after I'm done working, which is when I update my picture files, things could interesting, if they haven't already. More to come...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Northeast Dave said:


> Thanks Ziggy65, this is my first Honda [snowblower] so we're both in the same boat. Glad you're enjoying. I am sure my comments will be interesting as the amount of time I work on the Honda is in direct correlation to the amount of beer I drink doing it, so if I update the thread after I'm done working, which is when I update my picture files, things could interesting, if they haven't already. More to come...



once again . if you have the Honda HS50 official shop manual the directions are all there to remove this stuff unless you want to find out the hard way......


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Orangputeh, you're 100% correct on that one, the manual would be very helpful.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

So, tonight I removed the engine from the frame so I can then take off the auger assembly, handlebars, and finally get it on the workbench.
Here it is after the removal.


















Now I can also do some fine tuning on the engine as well. Please advise that the gas line, choke, and starter switch are/were only temporary so I could make sure the engine ran nice.


















I have also included a couple pix from the Craigslist ad so you can really see where it began. Looking back I sort of wish I had taken a few more, I was thinking it was going to be a long haul with this one when I first picked it up but hadn't really convinced myself at that point. I ended up cleaning it up a lot before I started looking for problems [I was certain at that point it was an electrical issue] but by the time I was done wiping it down I knew it was going to be a long one
.



























Until next time.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Picking up where I left off. Really just messed around a bit, getting together my plan of attack.
Here's where I'm at currently with the final drive.








to be honest it looks a lot cleaner in the pictures than it does when I'm looking right at it. But the auger is removed and I finally have it on a bench with proper lighting.
Question to anyone reading this, I need to do something about the plate behind the recoil starter, heat plate under the gas tank and the shroud that mounts on the front of the engine. They're in pretty bad shape, you can see them in the pic, I just placed the shroud for "close enough" location..









I was thinking of running them under the brush wheel to take off the rust and then paint them black [same black as I will use on the chute guide], or maybe high heat black in the same sheen as the chute guide? [anyone have a recommendation?]. I want to keep it simple and I have had very bad luck with any sort of metallic paint in the past and do not want to replace the parts. Any tips on where to find official Honda paint at the best price would be appreciated as well.
Took a look at the auger and once the transmission and track drive are all in order it's on to that. So, going to sand that down and paint it as well. But, I was thinking of doing the Honda on the top of the auger in white letters instead of the red.










Just so maybe it pops a little bit sort of like the Honda lettering on the side of this 928.








We'll see how far I get next time. A lot hinges on the condition of the final drive.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

def weathered . like a couple things. bucket looks straight. the control panel looks good.
def high temp stove paint on engine shroud. never a problem.

engine may need to be lightly blasted ( if you wanna go all the way ) due to that corrosion/rust . I have had many parts blasted at a local powder coating shop. picture is of some work . 

Honda has paint for this on their home site. I powder coat RD-01 or RD-02 . ( Cardinal Red is 02 ) Sometimes I use Rustoleum 2X apple red or cardinal red but you cant do the fuel tank because of gas spills. However , your white tank should clean up nice. 

the first 2 was painted with rustoleum 2x. 2nd 2 powder coat. also have made black, yellow, silver powder coat just to do different color schemes.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks Orangputeh, exactly the info I was looking for.
You did some really nice work on those machines, are those all part of the stable or were they fix-n-go's?
I would love to get everything blasted so all I have to do is prime and paint, but keeping it in budget is always a concern. I'll probably just hit everything with what I have and then repaint, but that's always subject to change.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

if it drove well in all gears ( no grinding or other noises ) I would leave the final drive gearbox alone.( parts are no longer available ) you could install a grease zerk and pump in some new grease. plus there are some adjustments you could make to increase/decrease speed or adjust the gear shifter . the friction disk looks pretty good. cant see any cracks on the rubber. actually not too bad looking underneath. usually find mouse nest or stuff in here.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

When I had it all together after fixing the motor I couldn't get through all three gears [first worked fine], was unsure at that point if it was broken equipment or just dirt/grime/etc gumming up the works. I figure I'm already almost there and I would hate to complete the project only to find out the the final drive is on its way out so I'm going to disassemble the whole works.
When I removed the bottom plate after I got it the entire area was packed with a major mouse nest that pretty much filled the whole thing. In some ways I think it helped preserve some of the parts, but who knows.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Northeast Dave said:


> When I had it all together after fixing the motor I couldn't get through all three gears [first worked fine], was unsure at that point if it was broken equipment or just dirt/grime/etc gumming up the works. I figure I'm already almost there and I would hate to complete the project only to find out the the final drive is on its way out so I'm going to disassemble the whole works.
> When I removed the bottom plate after I got it the entire area was packed with a major mouse nest that pretty much filled the whole thing. In some ways I think it helped preserve some of the parts, but who knows.


well , you can clean that splined whatsamacallit where the friction disk moves and grease that for starters. then you can do some adjustments. I'll post some pics from the manual on the adjustments. after that you can move the drive axle in the different gears to see if the gears in the gearbox is working. i usually do that when the machine is up on the nose before taking the tracks off.

be back in a bit with pics.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

hope you can read these. the first 3 are of the adjustments. second 3 are disassemble instructions.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)




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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks for the pix, very helpful. I'll take a look and advise on the progress.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Upon further review I am going to take Orangputeh's advise and not disassemble the final drive. Using the drive axel I spun the final drive listening for any grinding and I know it sounds weird but I can hear the oil in the gears within, it operated very smoothly as well so again, I have no reason to doubt that it is in fine condition. The gasket seems sound and I think it's in good shape so I think this is one of those don't go looking for problems situations. I poked around and pulled bolts to make sure nothing was rotted or locked up, that sort of thing. So, after I finish up the cleanup on the transmission [replacement of a few of the bolts, cotter pins, sand off some of the built up mek on everything] it will be on to the auger. I'll post pix when there is something to look at.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

what I do is everything for the engine, chassis , bars etc and test drive it before installing the bucket and augers. just in case. I know this is down the road a ways but I learned that the hard way haha

look forward to updates. love this stuff. check out my Facebook group Honda snowblower enthusiasts. I post projects like yours all the time. Builds from start to finish to help Honda owners with their blowers. mostly articles on basic service and repairs to help people save money from the shops.

retired. this keeps me out of the bars chasing loose women and getting into trouble.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Orangputeh, I checked out the Facebook group, but I don't have a Facebook account [I know right?] so I can't join.
I think I am going to finish cleaning it up, do the paint on the engine parts, reassemble the engine, replace a few bad bolts here and there and then put it all back together and see how it runs, probably use your suggestion and leave the auger off, but sometimes I get a little carried away once I get going...


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Dealt with this today which is pretty typical to find on this one.
Lots of gek built up on the friction disk shaft.


















sorry for the quality of the second one but it's more indicative of what I found. I think this was my issue getting into 3rd gear, and sticking getting out.









still needs some work but certainly better. Did an initial once over on the interior, I'll post pix after I get it cleaned up a bit more


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Ugh, I wrote a whole post on my work as of late, then messed up a picture drop and lost the whole thing. So, here's the abridged version.
I am waiting on a part [reversed threaded screw that I broke] that seems to be taking forever to get [12 days and counting] so I can only go so far.
I decided not to do the paint work now and use it this winter to make sure it's sound before investing more into it. 
So after going crazy cleaning up the interior I started reassembly.
First on the frame and auger.


















I found a problem [bent shaft] on the gear shift. I don't know if you can see how bent it is in the pic, but it was bad enough to mis-shift it, making the reverse gear interfere with he slide mechanism and third gear not extend far enough on to the drive disk. Very tight margin of error on this thing. In the pic you can see the bent shaft and the black cable for the release [for lack of a better word on the right]..









Simple fix [I bent it back by hand] and simple adjustment [lock bolt and the whole assembly turns for further adjustment], I was sort of impressed by the simplicity of it.
Then I reassembled the engine so it's ready to drop back on the chassis.


















It fits together really nice and sound. I changed the oil while I had it on the bench. I bought the paint of the plates and just didn't have it in me to strip and paint them, maybe next year. The fuel stopcock still works, the key mechanism works, and with some adjustment, the choke now works.
I had to run the motor being that I had it all back together so I bolted it to an old power washer frame that I pulled the motor off of and fired it up.


















It looks really strange on that thing. Anyway, it fired right up and I let it run for 10-15 minutes, then did it again an hour or so later [I was out doing yardwork], then did it again while I was enjoying some after work refreshment. Seems to run and idle fine, we'll see what it does under load. It was also pretty quiet, was/is that a thing with Honda motors? Does it have something to do with the coolest muffler I have ever seen on it? Seriously, I can't imagine the man hours spent on every detail of this thing, but again, is that the norm for Honda machines?
If the part comes this week I want to have it together complete so I can try out the drive next weekend. But you know what they say about the best laid plans.
Until next time.​


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

what and where is that special bolt you are speaking of? it's heartbreaking that you can't do the work now. couldnt you get another blower to get you thru the winter so you can do this little guy right?

the 50 is usually regulated to decks and very small areas.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Orangputeh. The bolt was coming from Minneapolis, still there in fact. I ordered one from someone else last week and it should be here today. 
I was on the fence with how much work I wanted to put into it. But based on the current condition I thought It be a good move to put it all back together [mostly so I don't forget how to] and run it this winter and see if I even like using it and see how it performs under load. The only open item on the to-do list will be to repaint parts of it which I can do any time if I get the inkling. I also want to see if my "better half" can operate it as it would be a good size for her to use.
I also need to clean up my work area a little bit, hopefully bringing in a motorcycle soon [Honda CB450], but we shall see.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

I got the part, but I forgot to get cotter pins, so I could only prep parts for installation.
I installed the Left side track frame [sort of].









I messed around more adjusting the gear shift bar [or whatever the technical name is], now it's straight and shifts within the correct tolerance.



















I greased up the axles as well in anticipation of re-installation but will likely grease them again [once I have cotter pins].
The adventure continues...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

don't need too much grease. I used to and then found out the hard way that the grease would spit onto the friction disk and drive wheel and make it slip.

just my 2 cents to stay into this game.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Orangeputeh, yep, I hear you. I only coat it [put a little on and spread it with a rag] to help me slide on the hubs easier and maybe keep the rust at bay for a year or so, not like the globs I put on the wood splitter slide.
I picked up some cotter pins at lunch so I will [hopefully] be back to re-assembly tonight.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Last night I mounted the tracks, whoo-hoo!









But...
The skids are rusted pretty bad and I could only get one of the four loose, so i had to take them off to soak them to be able to remove the bolts.


















Once that's taken care of I'll pull it out of the workshop, mount the engine and give it a test run. If all goes well I'll be working on the chute next.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i usually mount the engine first before the bucket to test the drive etc. it's just easier for me anyway for installing the drive belt I guess. plus with the engine weight you can lean the machine back onto the handlebars to install the bucket at an easier angle.

it really doesnt matter .it looks like you are making good progress.it's nice when you have plenty of time instead of a rush job.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Makes sense but I want to put the whole thing together again and test everything as soon as I can. If the drive [final gear] is shot then it goes back in the garage and listed for sale, project done. If it all works nice then it goes back in the garage and gets used this winter and probably stripped and painted next summer, unless i don't get a motorcycle, then it may get painted this summer...


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Here we go...
As I am still fighting with the skid plates and now with the scraper bar bolts I decided it best to take the auger back off [should have heeded your advise orangputeh] as I cannot raise the auger enough that it won't scrape the ground. Here's a shot of the scraper bar bolts.








I may just hit it with the angle grinder and replace the whole works [which, given the state of the nuts/bolts was pretty much a given anyway]. Scraper bar seems fine.








But, I did mount the engine and after breaking/removing/rewinding/reinstalling the pull starter line [I know, right?] I was off and running. I have to adjust the carb a little but that can wait [it was too hot out to mess around with a running engine on an asphalt driveway].
It cycles through all of the gears smoothly and drives fine. My neighbors must think I am absolutely insane as I was driving up and down the driveway and around the yard a little with this unfinished contraption looking thing.
But overall, very happy with the results.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

those studs on the scraper bar may break off trying to get the nuts off. happens to me allthe time. i think there are 5 and you can along without a couple. those bars are NLA from anyone and wouldhave to be custom made if needs to be replaced. I would just drill out the reminder of stud and use hardware bolts and nuts.

same thing happens sometimes with the skid shoes. 

was there a key for the auger belt pulley? i think there is on 50's. my brain is so damaged. I just put one together last week and there was. same thing on 55's and 80's but for some reason not all of them.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Orangputeh, yep, probably just drill them out and figure out some replacement with carriage bolts or something. Ran out of time so that’s the next mission. Bar is in good shape though.
as far as a key on the auger pulley, not sure what you mean, is it for the removal of the pulley or belt? More detail?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Northeast Dave said:


> Orangputeh, yep, probably just drill them out and figure out some replacement with carriage bolts or something. Ran out of time so that’s the next mission. Bar is in good shape though.
> as far as a key on the auger pulley, not sure what you mean, is it for the removal of the pulley or belt? More detail?


woodruff key. part #41 in boats.net diagram for hs50 TA click augers and drive pulley


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

I didn't disassemble the auger as of yet, so assuming the key is there and in good shape. I did run into a woodruff key in the flywheel assembly which was in good shape.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Project on hold while I wait for power [on generator power for one week and counting now].


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I'm working on a 50 right now. removing augers and housing which is in beautiful condition. pressure washed engine. looks new.

carb is trashed so brought out 4 carbs from my stash. hopefully can make one good one out of these 4.

pressure washed chassis. tracks have some cracks in them. this is close to a 40 year old machine. unfortunately , like a dummy did not take any before pics but it looked like it has been left outside for the last 20 years. here's another that looks just like it.

once i install the carb i can reinstall engine and test drive.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Orangputeh, nice machine. I have to say mine will be my first and only 50 that I will work on, perhaps my only Honda as they are just too over-engineered for my taste. 
I now have power back so I'll get back on my 50 this weekend or so.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

So. between the angle grinder and the grinding wheel I got the skid shoes separated and took off the scraper bar. Here's a pic after I ground all the bolts off the scraper bar and cleaned it up a little bit, a very little bit.










The nuts holding the scraper bar were in a sad state and had to be ground off which meant completely removing the nuts and welded bolts. I am not a fan of welded bolt posts on any machinery, but especially yard/lawn/outside equipment, it does not allow for the deterioration of the mounted bolt. In any case, going to replace the scraper bar bolts with some stainless carriage bolts and some stainless hex heads for the skid shoes. 
I removed the auger from the housing so I could also get the shear pins out and service the auger parts. I've only removed one so far, in the end I had to hit the hell out of it with a hammer. If anyone has any recommendation about shear pin replacements for a 50 please let me know, I found some on Amazon which look correct and are cheap enough for me to give it a shot. Also going to replace any other removed bolts with new stainless.
As always, I am on the fence as to how far I want to go with the work. Currently I am trying to do everything I can do to it with the exception of paint. I am convincing myself of this stance [I waver here and there] because i want to use it this winter and see if I like it. I have never had a track drive or a Honda so I'll see if the combination suits me [and the walkways, driveway, path to the woodpile....I digress]. I have noticed that the handles are a little low for me, which got really annoying on an older blower I had. I should state for the record that I hate painting anything, I do not have the patience for it, I am not good at it, and I try to avoid it whenever possible.
Here is the current state of the machine, well the auger side anyway.










End shot of the auger axle, the other side looks almost the same. going to replace the three bolts that hold the bushing cover.










Well, that's as far as I got today. Need to go get some bolts/nuts at the hardware store.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i didnt like painting at first but it grows on you. the prep is so much longer. all the different grit sanding flaps on a grinder. but the end result gets some raves. with the 50 you can take the sides off the bucket and that makes it a little easier. you look like you have your work cut out for you. some examples. I'm retired so have a LOT of time on my hands.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Nice work on those, want to paint mine?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Northeast Dave said:


> Nice work on those, want to paint mine?


been swamped with work. was turning down most of it but since havent been making extra cash took on 2 projects in past week. 

if you pay freight both ways and about 500 for the job. ( will need bucket , chute, and tank if you want same color ) then we can do it. probably will only be about a grand total. unless I drive 3000 miles if i come to you. can do it there. only 2 grand should cover all expenses.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks for the offer orangputeh but I'll probably take a pass, considering the resale value of the machine in pristine condition is only $500 or so. If I run the standard labor rate of $80/hr against the hours I have into it I'm already at about $3,500, I have already blown my budget. I now know why most shops won't take in a 50 for repairs.
I still haven't gotten down to the hardware store to get replacement bolts and I'm waiting on new shear pins. Once I get it all collected I'll start to put it back together [which to me is the best part]. Then it's on to the chute and it's components. 
This one did have a key on the auger drive shaft at the drive belt wheel.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Ok, back at it again. Ended up sanding [not very well] and painting [not very well] the auger housing as I couldn't convince myself not to do it. Replaced all the bolts on the housing, auger axle, and mounting as well.


















I didn't do anything with the auger itself other than soak the hell out of it with a de-greaser and a little lite sanding.









Replaced the shear bolts while I had it apart.
I mounted the scraper bar with some stainless bulb head hex bolts.









Here's a shot of the back side of the scraper bar.










Next I'm going to remount the auger to the frame, install the belt and give 'er a run. Then on to the chute and chute mount.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

looks great to me. looks like you're "all in" now. haha. ( laughing in a good way ).there's no turning back now.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Yep, I just couldn't put it together without doing the paint on the auger housing, it looked horrible before, now it only looks kind of horrible.
But yes, I guess I'm "all in" on this one now. Not my original intention, but _whatchayagonnado, knowwhatimean....?? _
I need to get more bolts [auger housing to frame] as the existing bolts are in a pretty sad state.
We'll see where we go next on this one. I keep saying I am going to get to the chute, but it seems like I constantly find something else I need to do first.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I do this work EVERY day except Sunday's nearly all year round. I enjoy it. I go thru so much hardware that I buy tons from Boltdepot.com.

I have jars full of nuts and bolts in vinegar for a couple weeks and then dry and paint. today to stay busy I serviced a friends Honda hs928 and installed an impeller kit for free.

are u putting an impeller kit in this child? easy to do with impeller out.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

I was going to install an impeller kit but to be honest, completely forgot about it. Once I got in to the sanding/painting of the auger I spaced it. We'll see how it works this winter [if we get any snow of note] and if need be I'll install one. Now that you can actually take the bolts off without a grinder it may be a nice quick winter project.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Well folks, this may be my last post regarding this 50 rebuild.
Here's an existential question, has anyone ever worked on a machine that just didn't seem like it wanted to be fixed?
I digress, but here goes...
I completed painting the chute, chute stays, and the belt cover [badly of course, not showroom quality, but more stop the rust quality]. Replaced all the mounting bolts and greased up the mechanism.
Here it is in all it's glory.




































Runs great, auger works great, transmission works great.
But wait, something is missing, no?
Yes, the phalking chute crank. Why is it missing?
Well, the mounting bolt broke.









and it's bent so bad that it actually doesn't rotate when it's mounted.










Which begs the question, how do you bend it so badly and not break the mounting bracket? I have no answer for this.
Due to these recent discoveries I have moved the HS 50 and all the parts to the back of the workshop and will eventually sell it or part it out. I'm done.
I just deleted a paragraph I wrote about how I _really_ feel about this 50 and Honda blowers in general but it was not suitable for posting.
Bottom line, lesson learned, won't be repeated.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

You have done a BEAUTIFUL job!!!

dont be discouraged. not too hard to fix IMO. around here 50's are free. I have 5 in the back yard for parts. maybe you can find a free or cheap donor machine for parts.

otherwise drill that broken bolt out, use a flat head carriage bolt, you can pry the end off to get some room to work with. That worm gear is held by a pin I believe. 
Heat the the chuter and bend back into place. I do it all the time. If it cracks you can install a sleave to shore it up.

But that's a beautiful job. Sold one like that a couple years back for $800. Had a collector fly in from Boise Idaho to pick up and then rented vehicle to bring it home. But if you parted it out you could get more than that. I'd keep it.It's going to worth a lot in years to come.

Thanks for the entertaining thread.

good luck.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks Orangputeh, it certainly looks better than when I picked it up.
I _can_ fix the remaining issues, but at this point just don't know if I want to. This project has been one of constant repair and uncovering more things to repair. I sort of knew what I was getting in to from the start but the motivation I had in the beginning is now gone. 
I may have to just let it sit and see how I feel about it in a few months.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

So my Dad was in town this weekend and was pretty impressed with my work on the 50. I had been sending him pictures of the work in progress and asking him about some of the issues so he was interested in seeing it in person. He couldn't understand why I didn't finish it, I had no answer other than, sometimes you have to push a project aside for a little bit before you rush it and mess something up.
I caught myself browsing used blowers on Craigslist today. I have been looking for the perfect motorcycle project which hasn't materialized yet, but always find myself checking out the used snowblowers. Just as i was eyeing up a nice Simplicity and thinking seriously about it I caught myself. Let's just finish the 50.
So, I took apart the chute control assembly and cleaned it up. Getting the compression pin out of the gear mounting was a big PITA but it's done. Going to hit the hardware store this weekend and see which way I want to repair it. 
Started it up when Dad was here and I need to adjust the carb and throttle a bit but man what a smooth running engine and though it hasn't been sitting long it started on the first pull, smooth as silk..

Before:









After:









The bearings are in good shape, just need to grind off the old mounting bolt head from the harness and get a replacement bolt assembly.
Until next time...


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

And it’s done.
Put it all back together, adjusted the carb and throttle, and it’s ready for winter.




































and here it is with big brother.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Machine looks great, your perseverance payed off. Big brother better watch out, little brother might eat his lunch this winter
Let us know how the Honda performs this winter.

Cheers


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks Ziggy65. It was an interesting project. Glad to have it done (for now). Ill let you know how it works this winter. Big Brother (9/27 Noma) is a proven warrior in the snow, don’t know if the small Honda could do what it does, but for smaller snowfalls it might be perfect. I really wanted a track blower to make a path from the driveway to the woodpile in the yard, the wheeled blower destroys the yard, with the track blower I can raise it up a bit off the ground.
Now on to the next project...


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Finally used the Honda a couple weeks ago and have been meaning to post.
It works very well and after using it in 14" - 18" snow I have to say i'm pretty impressed. It was easy to use and I really like the tracks and the configuration of the machine.
Going to make it my go to this season and see how it does. It is much easier to handle in my smaller driveway than the big one I have. I guess I sort of understand what the fuss about Honda is all about.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

if you like that 50 go get yourself a Honda HS 621 single stage. you'll love that more.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Orangputeh, funny you mention that, I was looking at one the other day, may as well have a blower for any snowfall amount, right? Those little single-stage blowers are popular around here, I see a lot of them. The only reason I haven't gotten one is that I would only use it for small snowfall of 3-4 inches and I really can't justify using a blower when I need to get myself out there to shovel and get some exercise. My driveway isn't that big 100'x8' so only about 800 sf and it's a decent paved asphalt so using a small blower would be the ultimate in laziness. Though, I would have to say that I am too lazy to get the machine out of storage sometimes and it's just easier to shovel. 6+ inches is a different story and now that I have the Honda [really like that machine] and a Ariens [Deluxe 28] project I just don't know if i can justify it, but you never know if the right one shows up. I did lend my friend [from whom I got the Ariens] my Noma for the season so maybe I do have the room for another project, though projects seem to find me.
Orangputeh, I wanted to say thanks again for your help on the Honda HS50 project, it really is a nice machine. Your tips and insights were extremely helpful. 
One side of my driveway drops off from the edge of the asphalt and my wheeled snow-blower tends to slide off the side if I get too close to it, but the tracks let me walk right along the line without sliding. That and it feels like it is half the size of my other one and to be honest, moves the snow just as well [maybe not as far, but far enough that it doesn't matter].


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Northeast Dave said:


> I am working on a Honda HS50 Track Drive, basically stripping it down to the frame to repair and clean after a long term mouse invasion. This has been and will continue to be a long term project (multiple months).
> Here’s the question, can I leave it tipped up on the auger for a long period of time? I haven’t decided if I want/need to remove the engine at this point.
> Any tips would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
> ...


Is there a filter element inside of that round air cleaner housing? I'm fixing a HS50 up and this machine has no element. The parts manual shows a rectangular air filter. If yours has an element , do you have a part number? Thanks


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Toon said:


> Is there a filter element inside of that round air cleaner housing? I'm fixing a HS50 up and this machine has no element. The parts manual shows a rectangular air filter. If yours has an element , do you have a part number? Thanks


Toon, no air filter needed on a snowblower, there is one [available only in Europe and Austrailia] but there is no need for it.
Glad you are fixing up a 50, I'm doing some work on mine lately, you can check out the progress here [maybe find some helpful info as well]:








Honda HS50 Part II


Hello Everyone, hope you've all had an enjoyable winter and your machines performed as they should. I was very impressed with the performance of the 50 that I rebuilt last spring that I decided I needed to tear it back down and do all the little things that I didn't initially do last year. To...




www.snowblowerforum.com




All the best.


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Northeast Dave said:


> Toon, no air filter needed on a snowblower, there is one [available only in Europe and Austrailia] but there is no need for it.
> Glad you are fixing up a 50, I'm doing some work on mine lately, you can check out the progress here [maybe find some helpful info as well]:
> 
> 
> ...


Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply. I would have thought Honda would be concerned about snow being sucked in, but I guess no element means it won't freeze over. It looks like you are doing an amazing job. I'm doing this one for my neighbor who got it gifted to him, but the previous owner did not take very good care of it. It's pretty rough and the tracks are almost done, so I'm not sure I will get too far into it. Still on the fence, but I hate to see a Honda go down.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Toon said:


> Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply. I would have thought Honda would be concerned about snow being sucked in, but I guess no element means it won't freeze over. It looks like you are doing an amazing job. I'm doing this one for my neighbor who got it gifted to him, but the previous owner did not take very good care of it. It's pretty rough and the tracks are almost done, so I'm not sure I will get too far into it. Still on the fence, but I hate to see a Honda go down.


This time of year would be a good time to get free or low cost donor machines. check the local dump if they allow that. FYI the tracks on a Honda HS55-70-80 will also fit on a 50. Dave is setting a world record for time and money restoring a 50. 
I also have several parts machines if you need some parts. check ebay and you'll see prices for these old 50's parts are outrageous. That is why I said you are better off getting a free or low cost donor machine. If the engine and drive works okay on your 50 then i would say it is worth fixing. Many parts for the 50 are NLA . Otherwise I would recommend a Honda HS520-621-720 single stage for smaller areas.


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> This time of year would be a good time to get free or low cost donor machines. check the local dump if they allow that. FYI the tracks on a Honda HS55-70-80 will also fit on a 50. Dave is setting a world record for time and money restoring a 50.
> I also have several parts machines if you need some parts. check ebay and you'll see prices for these old 50's parts are outrageous. That is why I said you are better off getting a free or low cost donor machine. If the engine and drive works okay on your 50 then i would say it is worth fixing. Many parts for the 50 are NLA . Otherwise I would recommend a Honda HS520-621-720 single stage for smaller areas.


Hi orangputeh
The engine runs but not with the choke off. I cleaned the carb but no difference. I might try a rebuild kit. Compression is around 89 psi. which is low but still OK I think. 
Just removed the old rusty and holy muffler and have a new aftermarket one on order. 
The belts are shot and new ones are ordered. 
The transmission works but drags a little in neutral. I will have to look at the gap on the friction disc to see if its too close.
Tracks are cracked but still function.
The fan wheel has one paddle bent so I might try to straighten it.
The shear bolts are rusted into the shafts so I may have to drill them out but the augers and fan wheel are rusted onto their shafts as well. I don't know if I can free them up. Being seized onto their shafts likely caused the bent fan blade when an obstacle was hit. Does anyone have a good method of freeing them up?
The fan bearing and auger shaft bearings are done for and new ones will be ordered.
Other than that the auger housing needs a little body work where the scraper is attached.
I just worry that when repaired, the lifespan might be limited if the tracks fail.
Do I need to worry about the track drive gearbox at the axle?
I had an 828 for years and loved that machine. I restored it when the right side transmission failed and gave it to my son. I now have a 928 and love the track steering.
Thanks in advance. Tony


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Toon said:


> Hi orangputeh
> The engine runs but not with the choke off. I cleaned the carb but no difference. I might try a rebuild kit. Compression is around 89 psi. which is low but still OK I think.
> Just removed the old rusty and holy muffler and have a new aftermarket one on order.
> The belts are shot and new ones are ordered.
> ...


Tony, my man, I am psyched that you are working on a 50. Unfortunately I have some bad news for you, if all of what you say above is true (especially the auger flights being bonded to the axle), you are in for at least $300 or so for parts to replace what you need, just to get the auger up to snuff. Unless, like my buddy Orangputeh says above you can find a parts machine (hopefully with the parts you need in good shape) for a decent price. Near me there are none to be had (under $500-800) for a “functioning” one which will probably have similar issues to yours anyway. They are around 40 years old so there’s that.
I lucked out with mine as the majority could be repaired, but I did spend some coin to find a handful of parts (track frames and left auger flight) beyond the almost comical cost of the 9 bearing packed washers that I needed. Granted only one of them actually needed to be replaced but I figured I’d get them while I still can, one of the bearings took 9 weeks to get once found.
Now that being said, I really like my 50, I think it’s a really cool machine and i intend to have it a very long time. I do not care that in the end (less the labor) I’ll probably top out at $400 for the rebuild (not counting consumables like spark plugs, oil, grease, etc). I am also obsessive enough to rebuild it the way I want, I can not count the hours I have put into it, I have to be in the thousands of hours at this point. 
BUT, how many people have a mint HS50? It’s wicked cool and it’s the reason you have the HSS928AT and all those fancy new ones you have today, the HS50, Granddaddy to them all.
Plus, in my personal case, it was something to do while drinking beer in the workshop for a year and a half.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

50 carbs usually need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned . need to take them apart . remove jets etc. be careful since the main jet is brass and you dont want to strip the slot while removing. may have to soak.
if it drives okay , probably just needs some adjustment/lubrication/grease on spindle gear. 

since you have to remove bucket to replace impeller bearing you'll have the opportunity to soak those augers with penetrating oil to remove them and the shear pins. use the search box here on removing seized augers. tons of great suggestions. 

cracks in tracks may be okay. i have seen many of these 35-40 year tracks last almost forever with cracks in them. people always worry about them and they are okay for years and years unless they get tore open by a nail on a deck.

fortunately the parts you need are still available. I love the old 50's........well built little tanks.









do you have any pictures?


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> 50 carbs usually need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned . need to take them apart . remove jets etc. be careful since the main jet is brass and you dont want to strip the slot while removing. may have to soak.
> if it drives okay , probably just needs some adjustment/lubrication/grease on spindle gear.
> 
> since you have to remove bucket to replace impeller bearing you'll have the opportunity to soak those augers with penetrating oil to remove them and the shear pins. use the search box here on removing seized augers. tons of great suggestions.
> ...


I think I could put this blower back in service with the shear bolts missing and it would blow snow just fine because of the seized augers, but gear box issues would occur if a blockage was encountered. I have the penetrating oil on the shafts for now but even the broken shear bolts don't want to let go. I'll keep at it though. Here are a few pictures.








As delivered.








Auger housing removed.








Scraper area of auger housing, rusted.








Shear bolts heads broken off. Penetrating oil added.








Bent fan wheel paddle.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Toon said:


> I think I could put this blower back in service with the shear bolts missing and it would blow snow just fine because of the seized augers, but gear box issues would occur if a blockage was encountered. I have the penetrating oil on the shafts for now but even the broken shear bolts don't want to let go. I'll keep at it though. Here are a few pictures.
> View attachment 178643
> 
> As delivered.
> ...


Nice!


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

“Dave is setting a world record for time and money restoring a 50”
Cut me real deep man, real deep...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

the damage on bottom of bucket is caused by skid shoes not being properly adjusted. pretty common. fortunately your scraper bar ( a NLA part ) looks pretty good with lots of life left in it. not sure how far you wanna go with this bucket repair. you can just adjust skids shoes or replace them and keep the bucket as is or cut out bad metal and weld in some new 14 gauge. 

I think you'll be able to remove those augers eventually. I use liquid wrench penetrating oil, sometimes heat , and a lot of patience. I have locked the augers in a vice and used a long 2 by 4 wedged into auger to break free. One auger took 2 weeks to break free. penetrating oil , heat , banging , cussing , etc. That is why I said you need a LOT of patience. 

ya, youre right you want to get these free. that auger gearbox is NLA. they are about $200 on ebay or more. That is why I try to get free or nearly free parts machines. 

please keep us up to date on this. it's interesting to me at least.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Northeast Dave said:


> “Dave is setting a world record for time and money restoring a 50”
> Cut me real deep man, real deep...


I only trash people I like , man. really I give you chops for doing this. I'll do this to a hydrostatic 828-928-1132 because i can sell those machines for big bucks. I have sold several 50's for $750-800 before but I won't do a total restore on one. No money in it. The other machines I can get 2-2700 for.

On my personal machines I buy the best model I can find so I dont have to work on it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)




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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> I only trash people I like , man. really I give you chops for doing this. I'll do this to a hydrostatic 828-928-1132 because i can sell those machines for big bucks. I have sold several 50's for $750-800 before but I won't do a total restore on one. No money in it. The other machines I can get 2-2700 for.
> 
> On my personal machines I buy the best model I can find so I dont have to work on it.


I get it, for me it's not about the profit margin.


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Northeast Dave said:


> I am working on a Honda HS50 Track Drive, basically stripping it down to the frame to repair and clean after a long term mouse invasion. This has been and will continue to be a long term project (multiple months).
> Here’s the question, can I leave it tipped up on the auger for a long period of time? I haven’t decided if I want/need to remove the engine at this point.
> Any tips would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
> ...





orangputeh said:


> I'll usually run it with gas off until it stalls and then put it in this position for days. have worked on dozens of 50's so will be watching your progress. taking the 50 engine off is actually a pain compared to the other Honda's. the only time i did it was to transfer a great engine to another 50 chassis that had a good drive. otherwise i would have left it on.
> View attachment 167700


"orangputeh, How in the world can I start a new thread on this site? I don't want to tag onto Northeastern Dave's post. I have almost completed the repair on the HS50 in my care and would like to share my journey. I have looked around for a bit but can't seem to find out how to get a new post started. I'm old and maybe I am missing something?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Toon said:


> "orangputeh, How in the world can I start a new thread on this site? I don't want to tag onto Northeastern Dave's post. I have almost completed the repair on the HS50 in my care and would like to share my journey. I have looked around for a bit but can't seem to find out how to get a new post started. I'm old and maybe I am missing something?


go to Honda sub forum and then in top right side you should see a box that says "Start A Discussion "


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> go to Honda sub forum and then in top right side you should see a box that says "Start A Discussion "


Thanks


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