# Ariens Remote Wheel Lock not working!



## xjjeepman

I have an Ariens Deluxe 28 (921022) that i purchased new in 2011. Barely used it since i have an ATV with a plow and now a truck with a plow. Mostly for my sidewalks. This season i took it out of storage went to use it for the 1st time and i cannot get the wheels to lock at all. I have tried many different ways and still no dice. Pulled the bottom cover off and tried to adjust the cable but that seems to be engaging just fine. Can anyone shed some light on this?? The blower is worthless without both wheels locked!


----------



## HillnGullyRider

From service manual,

NOTE: The wheel lock will not release when under load.
Do not unlock the wheel while turning. If the wheel lock will not release, turn the unit slightly left or right to relieve 
axle load and release the axle lock.


----------



## xjjeepman

Thanks, ill take another look at it. Still not 100% as to how it is supposed to lock correctly. I watched the videos (thanks) but I'm not sure he shows exactly how it locks. My cable is working it seems, but for some reason the left wheel isn't locking no matter what i do.


----------



## HillnGullyRider

The axle is split in two, one side is partially hollow, the other side inserts into the hollow hole and normally just rides in there not rotating. Where these two axles meet there are spline sets butted together...Normally these splines are LOCKED together (thus a locked axle). when the mechanism is pushed to one side, it releases a set of splines and the hollow axle rotates around the inserted axle allowing one wheel to turn freely while the other wheel is under power. If the splines do not align and the mechanism can't slide return under spring pressure to the locked position (locking of both spline sets), then you will not have a locked axle until this is corrected.


----------



## xjjeepman

Here is whats going on with mine, excuse my lousy video;


----------



## HillnGullyRider

Vid won't play (private)


----------



## xjjeepman

Sorry, try now?


----------



## HillnGullyRider

Now compare that to the other video, there is a difference, what do you see different?


----------



## xjjeepman

HillnGullyRider said:


> Now compare that to the other video, there is a difference, what do you see different?


I did compare it, the ratchet thing isnt opening up and turning completely. I still dont know how to make it work. I dont think its my cable?


----------



## HillnGullyRider

Yes , your ratchet is not working, you need to check all the springs. Make sure the arm is moving in both directions, and if that all checks out you may have to disassemble, clean, lubricate, and reassemble. All of that needs to be working freely like in the video i posted.


----------



## Bror Jace

*xjjeepman*, I had (have) the same problem with mine. I squeeze the handle, unlock the wheels to make a really tight turn, then the axle remains unlocked and the machine is virtually unusable ... especially going up even the slightest incline.

I emptied my fluids then put my machine in the service position (on its face/nose) and pulled the plate. I didn't find anything definitive. It just seemed to be "sticking" a bit. I was limited to what I had on hand so i gave it a spray of silicone and put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on the mechanism. I got it to work, so I put the cover back on and re-filled the gas and motor oil. 

However, the very next snow storm, I got brave and unlocked the axle mid-way through clearing the neighborhood and it again refused to re-lock. I jiggled the heck out of the machine, worked the lever a few times and it re-locked so I could finish clearing.

I haven't touched it since. Next time I have it in the service position, I am going to hit the mechanism with brake parts cleaner to get rid of anything in the mechanism (old lubes, dirt, etc ... ) than I will re-lube with teflon spray and Remington's thin Rem Oil. 

I'm hoping that will do it. My machine is 4 years old but only has about 25 hours on it. I don't think I should have to deal with something like this.


----------



## HillnGullyRider

Bror Jace said:


> *xjjeepman*, I don't think I should have to deal with something like this.


Apparently a lot of folks felt like this, that's why they went to auto-turn so you could have a whole new set of headaches to deal with.
There is an AT retrofit kit available for your machine. it's about $150.

Be known though, nothing tracks straighter than that setup you have (aside from a solid straight axle). So if you can live with muscling it around the 180 turns without unlocking (this is what i do), then you are good to go.


----------



## Bror Jace

_"So if you can live with muscling it around the 180 turns without unlocking (this is what I do), then you are good to go."_ 

I'll probably do this the rest of the season. With snow-covered surfaces, it usually isn't too bad ... even if the machine weighs 100lbs more than I do.


----------



## HillnGullyRider

There is a technique I use, works much better when there is about an 1" of hardpack coating the concrete or blacktop, But I can actually zero turn a full sized locked axle blower with ONE hand. 

You have to put the machine in 2nd or third gear, stand astride the machine facing left to right. Place your hip up against the OUTside of the left handle, then use your left hand to actuate the drive clutch with enough downforce to slightly elevate the bucket while using your left hip to rotate the machine around the left wheel. Works great and with very low effort even for a lighter person. There is also a technique I use to do a reverse 90 using my hip on the INSIDE of the left handle while the machine is in reverse. Try it for yourself.


----------



## stonehouse

I have the opposite problem with my Ariens wheel lock mechanism. I have a ST30LE Deluxe- 3 years old. The issue is that the wheel lock gear jumps out of engagement and the left wheel won't drive. I took off the bottom plate. I adjusted the wheel lock cable until it was very loose...no tension whatsoever. The two mechanism springs were both intact. The gear drive would go back in just fine, but would disengage as soon as it had any load on it. I fiddled for some time. I engaged the gears and tightened a hose clamp around the axle tight against the gear plate so that it couldn't kick out. I can now use the machine, but this is only a temporary fix....any suggestions or ideas why the gears disengaged under load?


----------



## Bror Jace

*HillnGullyRider*, yes, I have tried turning the machine while the wheels are turning ... and it requires less effort. If you time it right, it spins/snaps around quickly like you say. I'm a bit reluctant to do this in the tightest spaces, however, as I don't want to end up replacing sections of house siding. 

*stonehouse*, how is the spring that holds these pieces together? Some of the on-line vids suggest this thing is kinda weak to start with and wears out fast. If I can't get mine to behave itself with a thorough cleaning and re-lube, I will probably replace the spring.


----------



## stonehouse

The spring still has a lot of thrust. I considered replacing it, but it looked like a royal pain to dismantle enough of the mechanism to get the spring out. I'm considering a visit to my local welding shop next summer and have them spot weld the gears together. I realize this would disable the whole option of disengaging the left wheel drive, but I never used that procedure anyway.


----------



## Loco-diablo

I just had the same problem. Cable appeared to be stretched and the big spring at the end of the cable got really bent somehow. I replaced the whole cable which comes with the trigger, all the way down to the included spring. I also cleaned up the gears and gave a good spray with wd40 lubricant. Working perfectly again. The cable was $40 at my local ariens dealer. Also, note that the machine MUST be rolling in a straight line when engaging/disengaging the lock according to an email response I got from ariens.


----------



## HillnGullyRider

Yes, the cable correction kit comes complete with trigger and spring...This is definitely where I'd start first before taking apart the whole axle mechanism, but if the mechanism looks black and gummy, I would prepare to take it all apart and clean.


----------



## Kevin

Had the same problem and followed the directions posted here to tighten the spring. Very simple fix with the belly pan removed to verify proper function.
Thanks to all for the info.


----------



## HankOrange

HillnGullyRider said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh1nFjSaags
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcfXcMwm0NM
> 
> From service manual,
> 
> NOTE: The wheel lock will not release when under load.
> Do not unlock the wheel while turning. If the wheel lock will not release, turn the unit slightly left or right to relieve
> axle load and release the axle lock.


I own a 921013 Ariens. The drive wheels have not worked well since I purchased this machine new, maybe 2005?? Anyway. I finally got it working properly and consistently. First, Came to find out the woodruff key or square machine key was missing. part sits on the axle in the slot before the wheel goes on. the correct size of the key is 1/4 x 3/16 x 1. You can buy these online for anywhere from 2 to 8 dollars. I purchased mine at a big box store for $0.69 as a 1/4 x 1/4 x 1 and then ground one side down to 3/16" . Second, I adjusted the speed selector lever to the proper tension. Other threads cover this in detail so I will only highlight how I did this. On speed selector, put in high gear, remove cotter pin on the rod close to belly pan, pull the threaded assembly out of the speed lever, push speed lever all the way down to high speed, thread the assembly so it fits back in to the rod (I only turned my assembly 3 turns) and reinstall cotter pin. Now the speed selector is adjusted. Third, I adjusted the tension on my drive cable so the drive flywheel engages fully. Again, read other threads. Fourth, Adjust the clutch cable. 8 threads from the top should be showing from the factory. I didn't actually do anything to this cable as I hardly ever used it. Make sure it is lubricated or at least slides easily. And Finally, and this is the real issue I had; On the video in the thread where the guy shows how the free wheeling clutch mechanism is supposed to work, there is a dark black lever on the back left side of the clutch area. That lever is spring loaded and on my machine, it was tilted too far to the left so not engaging with the clutch properly. I simply pushed the lever back and released it!! Then it properly lined up to the clutch. HillnGullyRider posted a video on the 2/3/2015 of how the actuator (clutch) works. On the video you can see the lever immediately to the left (behind) of the two springs. Hope this works for you guys! Good luck.


----------



## Nesta

I know this is an old thread, but I found a great solution!
I just had the exact same problem. All you need to do is remove lubricate the differential. 
1) Tilt the snowblower into the service position.
2) Remove the six bolts on the back to open up the access door. 
3) Try spinning the wheels and pulling on the differential lock to see how smoothly things are moving. If your differential wont engage, they likely aren't moving smoothly and you can probably feel some excessive tension in the cable. 
4) Dump some oil (I used motor oil) on the differential, spin the wheels back and forth, pull the differential lever. You want to get things moving and get that oil deep in there. Keep pouring oil, spinning the wheels, and pulling the lever until things start moving smoothly. Take your time here and be generous with the oil. Make sure you dont get any oil on the friction wheel.
5) Clean up your mess. Be aware that the spilled oil can eat away at your paint, so you'll want to do a good job of cleaning your mess.
6) Bolt everything back up and enjoy.


----------



## Dannyboy

HillnGullyRider said:


> Apparently a lot of folks felt like this, that's why they went to auto-turn so you could have a whole new set of headaches to deal with.
> There is an AT retrofit kit available for your machine. it's about $150.
> 
> Be known though, nothing tracks straighter than that setup you have (aside from a solid straight axle). So if you can live with muscling it around the 180 turns without unlocking (this is what i do), then you are good to go.





HillnGullyRider said:


> Apparently a lot of folks felt like this, that's why they went to auto-turn so you could have a whole new set of headaches to deal with.
> There is an AT retrofit kit available for your machine. it's about $150.
> 
> Be known though, nothing tracks straighter than that setup you have (aside from a solid straight axle). So if you can live with muscling it around the 180 turns without unlocking (this is what i do), then you are good to go.


Mine is locked in two wheel and if I had to choose , that is what I prefer. I have a decent incline so two wheel is a must. I make wide turns at the bottom (apron) or top (mine gets much wider at the top for turn around), using the chute direction to send snow where I want it to go. But the easiest thing to do is just rock it back and pivot (low speed), the wheel are on snow anyway and the pivot is virtually 180...little resistance that way


----------

