# Direct LED Bulb replacement possible? 1028/1128



## MagnumB (Oct 1, 2014)

hi there, I have an 1128. The bulb type is an automotive #892 base. 

That's as far as I've been able to get. 

Wondering if anyone has had luck finding an LED replacement. By my very basic calculations I'm guessing a 6W-8W LED is the best option so the hand warmers don't cause too much voltage drop. A voltage drop on non dim able LED's as you know isn't pretty. 

With that said, if no bulb replacement is possible, what have you used as a direct LED housing replacement to mount on the existing mounting bracket?

Right now my hand warmers act like a high and low beam switch. Turn them on and you get. 30% brightness drop lol. 

Thanks in advance for help!!!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

you will have to switch out the whole light set up.


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## superedge88 (Nov 26, 2013)

MagnumB said:


> hi there, I have an 1128. The bulb type is an automotive #892 base.
> 
> That's as far as I've been able to get.
> 
> ...


Please give us the wattage of your current incandescent bulb, and wattage of your handwarmers if possible.
Also pictures of your blower would help so that we could make suggestions for mounting a new light.


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## MagnumB (Oct 1, 2014)

superedge88 said:


> Please give us the wattage of your current incandescent bulb, and wattage of your handwarmers if possible.
> Also pictures of your blower would help so that we could make suggestions for mounting a new light.


Will do, 

I do know the current bulb is 16 Watt. I'd wire in a switch so I could go all lights or all hand warmers if necessary.

Changing out the assembly looks to be a breeze as it's just a light mounted to a bracket. It's not built in. 

I'll grab some close ups.


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## MagnumB (Oct 1, 2014)

Sorry guys, I forgot to grab the close ups. I'll try and get that by this weekend. Thanks so much for the replies. Much appreciated. I did find that other retrofit thread. Very interesting. I'm thinking mine will be a breeze. But I'll get those photos first and go from there. 

Cheers


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

Before trying to replace the #892 with an LED replacement such as HID White 10W 880 889 892 890 Samsung 2323 LED FOG Bulbs Light 6000K 12V DC | eBay for example, I would suggest you measure the DC voltage with a multimeter, then measure the AC voltage riding on the DC. If The AC riding on top of the DC is more than 2 volts peak to peak or close to a volt rms you might see flickering depending on engine RPM. It can be annoying. Not really room to add big filter capacitors so you might want to change the whole light housing at this point. Lots of them for sale on line of different quality.

I kinda like this one, it says water proof and looks ruggedly built. Only thing it doesn't mention cord lenght.



4 Inch 18W Cree LED Work Light Bar Lamp for Car Truck Off Road Sale-Banggood.com


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## MagnumB (Oct 1, 2014)

I'm just about to revisit this issue. So I'm breathing new life into the thread...unless of course someone already solved it...I like the suggestion by coby 7. I suppose I could use a rectifier of some sort if there is flicker. 

I'll let you know what I decide.


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## MagnumB (Oct 1, 2014)

Just found this old thread if anyone is looking into this:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...rading-your-snowblower-lights-led-lights.html


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

It just so happens I have one of those waiting to go on my PowerShift !! :icon-hgtg:

Waiting on the slow boat from China to bring the rectifier and caps for the install. 

It's about 14"


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

MagnumB said:


> hi there, I have an 1128. The bulb type is an automotive #892 base.



And for me (us?) to know what housing you're talking about the model and serial number of the machine would be helpful as would the series of numbers from your specific engine. It might be possible to look up the engines specs and find out the answers without you having to pull out a VOM and doing tests, readings and math.


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## MagnumB (Oct 1, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> And for me (us?) to know what housing you're talking about the model and serial number of the machine would be helpful as would the series of numbers from your specific engine. It might be possible to look up the engines specs and find out the answers without you having to pull out a VOM and doing tests, readings and math.


If you find it in your glorious heart, I'd love to see some pics of the process and instal. I'll see about getting specifics when I get home or in the next couple days on my unit. I have this:

My unit is a Toro 1128 OHXE (m/y 2015) purchased last fall.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

This is from JnC"s install. I really liked his work. Very professional and clean.
Page 48 http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ing-your-snowblower-lights-led-lights-48.html

I ordered the bridge and caps on ebay.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Or if you're not good with a soldering iron you can buy one of these and you're done !!
$13 and shipping.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-supplies/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module/1725/


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*Kiss4aFrog*: *Coby7*'s LED light is "Operating Voltage: 10-30V DC"

I don't know about LED lights or electronics. Do we want to operate *Coby7*'s LED light at only 12v DC? Or do we want to build or to buy a rectifier module (converting AC to DC) with an output closer to 30v DC to maximize the brightness of the light?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

*I'm guessing* . . . just like making it yourself it's going to have an acceptable range of voltage. It says 12 AC to 12 DC but if your machine is producing more voltage it would still convert it to DC at that voltage. It doesn't contain a regulator like you would want and need if you had a battery in the system.

You also have to remember voltage is just "pressure", it's needed but it doesn't actually do the work, amps are the "power". They all work together. If the voltage is too high for the LED you get a popped LED. :wacko:


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

Not totally agreeing with you here. The regulator in that light is set for optimal light output. It tries to maintain no matter the input voltage, if voltage is high it draws less current if the voltage is low it draws more current to keep power at the LED the same. Power equal voltage times current. 18= 12X1.5 but 18 is also = to 24X.75. So any voltage between 12 and 30 will give 18Watts, current will vary accordingly. So it doesn't matter if engine is idling or full throttle light output remains the same with no flicker.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Thank you both. So *Kiss4aFrog*'s storebought superbrights 12V AC to DC Converter Module will drive *Coby7*'s LED light just fine.

But should I set up a different system If I want to add a battery now or later? The reason why I ask is that apparently some people put wheel weights on their blowers, but I saw a picture of some Toro's up for sale at a municipal auction on this forum, and it looked liked they had a battery pan for a full size D31 12v auto battery over the right wheel with battery cables thick enough for most cars. 

It would seem to me that a battery of that size would not only provide wheel traction, but would also power a 12v electric starter, LED lights, an electric chute rotator, electric handwarmers, and anything else you could think of including, but not limited to, an electric beverage warmer...


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I wasn't aware that the lights have a regulator in them. I just thought they were capable of operation from 10-30 volts. Will they actually step down voltages over 30 V ??

The battery might run all that but it's likely you'll need to recharge the battery after each use. For that you'd likely want to go with a deep cycle battery that will better tolerate constant discharge and recharge cycles.
If you want a self contained machine then you still need to know the maximum output of the stator and stay under that if you want the machine to self maintain the battery.
Yes you would want to add a regulator to the circuit. At least to the battery.


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