# arien 520 snow blower broken head bolts



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well my neighbor gave me a arien 520 snow blower that doesn't run. it has a tecumseh lh195sp engine. the thing looks to be in mint shape except it didn't seem to be want throw a good spark so i tear into it to reset the gap on the pick up and ended up snapping the heads off a couple of the bolts. now i figure i got to put the head but i am not sure about the best way to remove the bolts. is sticking a nut on them and welding the nut to what is left of the bolt the best way to tackle it? i am not really sure what to do with a aluminum engine. i am just hoping that once i pull the head i don't find more surprises since i couldn't get it to start once i set the gap and started getting decent spark.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

ALOHA to the forms.. do what most of the guys with ariens blowers have done. toss the tecumsapart and get a 99 dollar HF predator engine. I am just running that idea up the old flagpole to see if it flies..


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

just get a predator and part out the tecumseh, you will have made enough money to cover the predator and wont have to deal with the pos tecumseh. as a tip, nexty time soak the bolts in some pb blaster, even if they dont appear to need it. i think your engine has a solid state ignition


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i am hoping to try fixing it for free-cheap first. a new engine would not be in the cards right now. 

i had soaked the bolts


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

yes, but heres the deal. if you have a month or so to wait, you can part out the tecumseh, post some ads up here, and sell it on ebay. you could get a cheap sae tap and die set from hft for 10 bucks


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i don't know how long it would be before i could afford a new engine since a new engine would be about $200. snow blower was free. would rather just just see about getting it running or figure out if the engine it shot first. it is the 2nd snow blower that i have got for free but the first not to run after cleaning the carb.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

the HF 6.5 hp motor is only $99 when they are on sale and they always seem to be on sale, just look on harbor freights website or in the circular


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i guess i forgot to mention i am up in Canada. no HF here.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Here is a link to the service manual. I believe the LH195 is very similar to a HS-50 or HSSK-50. I hope this helps.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

crazzywolfie said:


> i guess i forgot to mention i am up in Canada. no HF here.


Couldn't you order one from their web site ??


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

their 100 up over here. how close are you to the border? if your in hamilton, its only about a 45 minute-90 minute drive to niagara falls according to yahoo answers, but im not forcing you.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i am about 2hours away from Niagara falls and to drive one of my V8 vehicles there and back would would cost me about $100 on gas since we pay about $5/gallon up here. 


Kiss4aFrog said:


> Couldn't you order one from their web site ??


no. plus once you deal with shipping/duty and taxes it would be cheaper to buy the $200 engine locally.

i am just used to trying to fix things first. my one truck is older than i am. things are not broke till they are totally fubar'd.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I know the feeling, it's a challenge to resurrect something near death and a good feeling of accomplishment when you can.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

heres a manual from my personal pc collection


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

http://www.asos1.com/tecumseh4hp/Tecumseh.pdf
http://www.tecumsehpower.com/CustomerService/BSI.pdf
it wouldnt let me attach my personal manual, found it online


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

thanks. so what would you recommend for head bolts? would it be ok the weld nuts onto the stubs and try to get them out that way?



Kiss4aFrog said:


> I know the feeling, it's a challenge to resurrect something near death and a good feeling of accomplishment when you can.


i am use to it. my newest vehicle is 21 years old. it has been a pain in the but to keep moving but i know it is a lot cheaper than buying and repairing a newer vehicle. my other vehicle is 33 years old and usually keeps going and going no matter what.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i would try to drill and tap them if you snow somebody that has a tap that you can borrow, or if you have to you can try welding it. is it a head bolt, shroud blot, or combo bolt.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> ALOHA to the forms.. do what most of the guys with ariens blowers have done. toss the tecumsapart and get a 99 dollar HF predator engine. I am just running that idea up the old flagpole to see if it flies..


Just for the record, and to give a new forum member all sides of the story, it isnt true that "most of the guys" toss the Tecumseh and get a $99 Harbor Freight engine..It would be more accurate to say *some* of the guys do that..
(from what I have seen, making my Ariens webpage, it's a small minority.)

Some other guys think $99 Harbor Freight engines are the cheapest junkiest thing around, and consider the original Tecumseh a FAR superior engine, and consider putting a cheap low-end Chinese piece of junk on a 100% American made high-quality machine to be blasphemous.
plus all the political and economic concerns about Chinese products. (illegal cloning, etc)
and there are other engine options..Harbor Freight isnt the only option.

The other side of the story:

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/Page2.html

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/rant.html

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/Page10.html

After being fully informed, the decision is yours to make.

Scot


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

actually if i could find a cheap Chinese engine for $100 i might consider it closer to winter time. i know they do occasionally go on sale around then. sometimes cheaper stuff is better and then sometimes it is worse. only way to find out is to try.



43128 said:


> i would try to drill and tap them if you snow somebody that has a tap that you can borrow, or if you have to you can try welding it. is it a head bolt, shroud blot, or combo bolt.


i got a tap set. i just really hate drilling and tapping a hole in aluminum. the drill bit seems to always like drilling though the softer metal


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i got the head off and things look pretty good only issue i seem to have found is the valves don't seem to move up and down at all. you can rotate them as much as you want but they won't move up or down. any input on how to fix that?


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Are the tappets moving? (visible through the access plate on the side)


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i don't know. i have not got that far yet


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ok the tappets are not moving at all when the engine is rotated. so i would guess this means it might have a bad cam or bad tappets?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

You need to see why the camshaft isn't rotating. Since it pushes them open and closed I'm "assuming" it's not rotating. Might need to open up the crankcase.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

yup. i figure i would have to open her up. i guess i will have to see about checking it out tomorrow. is there really that many things that could be preventing the cam from rotating? i figure something has to be toast.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i ended up taking the engine off. bit more work than i thought it would have been up it is now off. anyone able to give me some advise on how to get the pulley off? it is not wanting to come off. i have sprayed it with penitrating oil


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

a crowbar behind the pulley and maybe some heat, thats how i got mine off


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i think i am going to have to find my torch because a crowbar was not getting the job done by itself.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The flywheel or the V belt pulley ??

The V belt pulley, PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating fluid (NOT WD40), maybe use a little heat to suck the stuff in a couple times and a three jaw puller. If you don't have one a lot of the auto parts stores have loaners.
.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

it is the v-belt pulley i am trying to remove. 

i don't carry wd40. i know it is useless as a penitrating oil. i don't have a 3 jaw puller and know none of the local tool stores rent tools so hopefully the heat frees things up.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

do you have pb blaster?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i am using liquid wrench penitrating oil. i find it usually works good.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

pb blaster and kroil are my top 2, however i only keep wd 40 around because its great for starting stubborn engines that have been sitting all winter. with pb blaster you can actually see it seep into the threads of a bolt, its the one penatrating oil that actually penatrates! best of all, in the us its only 5 dollars for a 2 pack(not sure about canadian pricing)


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i have found the liquid wrench penitrating oil usually works good. it worked good on the exhaust manifold bolts on my 81 d150. if all else fails i do got acetone and ATF


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Sorry my Canadian brother . I didn't see that before.

You are way ahead of the curve. You don't use WD40 for everything and you know the magic mixing acetone and ATF can provide to loosen rusted stuff.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

its ok. i am familiar with working on basic engines and stuff but usually they are cast iron. i haven't dealt with small aluminum engines

i have learned over they year that wd40 does have its uses but you will never find it in my tool box. i have have a couple different fluids for different job. i am hoping to not have to crack out the acetone and atf since things don't look that rusty. the snow blower overall look in great shape and well taken care of other than whatever internal issues the motor is having.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Another option is the electrolysis process. 

You may have to prop the aluminum above the water line, but it a no hammer method.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

crazzywolfie said:


> well i got the head off and things look pretty good only issue i seem to have found is the valves don't seem to move up and down at all. you can rotate them as much as you want but they won't move up or down. any input on how to fix that?





43128 said:


> a crowbar behind the pulley and maybe some heat, thats how i got mine off


... And it's a great way to open a new hole in your block as well.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

db9938 said:


> Another option is the electrolysis process.
> 
> You may have to prop the aluminum above the water line, but it a no hammer method.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOcmvzYZh64


i would sooner just sandblast it than try dealing with electrolysis.
here are some pics


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

the body looks to be in great shape


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Well the body sure looks like it's worth the effort to save it !!

You should add the blowers info in your "signature". I'm lazy today and don't want to go back and see if you've posted the model number  Is that sheave one piece or two ??

The pry bar just sounds harsh. Any chance you could talk a local mechanic into loaning you a three jaw overnight or for a couple hours for some ???
It would be so much easier and safer.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

you know you could sell the starter and carb and make 100 off that engine easy


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

The rust-trolysis is actually pretty simple, and straight forward.

I used a five gallon contractors bucket, and paint stirrers to position my piece, and adjust the water level to achieve the desired moment of contact.

And down here we have elections 2 or 3 times a year, and there is always someone wanting to put a sign in your yard. Around these parts, those signs are a material that resembles a heavy trash bag, with a steel wire frame. I just snipped off enough, bent a hook at the top to hold it. I occasionally went scrapped the crusty's off the sacrificial rod into the trash, every time I went to fridge for a beer. Took less than a day.

My situation was my Honda impeller was frozen to the auger transmissions input stub. There was no cheap alternative replacement here.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Yeah, shy of the engine issues, that thing appears to be cherry. And another thought, if you plan on a reposer, the original pulley would make it easier.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Well the body sure looks like it's worth the effort to save it !!
> 
> You should add the blowers info in your "signature". I'm lazy today and don't want to go back and see if you've posted the model number  Is that sheave one piece or two ??
> 
> ...


the body is clean. the same neighbor also gave me a lawn mower that was just as clean. just the lawn mower only required a carb cleaning to get it running properly. 

i think i got the right info posted in my sig now. not sure about the sheaves.

i am hoping to swing by princess auto to return some stuff this weekend. i might see about possibly picking up a 3 jaw puller. 


43128 said:


> you know you could sell the starter and carb and make 100 off that engine easy


i have no idea what the starter is worth but i have a feeling the carb is only worth about $10 since you can get them online for about $20


db9938 said:


> The rust-trolysis is actually pretty simple, and straight forward.
> 
> I used a five gallon contractors bucket, and paint stirrers to position my piece, and adjust the water level to achieve the desired moment of contact.
> 
> ...


i get how it works. i just don't see it doing much for the pulley while it is is still on the engine. plus i think it would more work than it is worth. 


db9938 said:


> Yeah, shy of the engine issues, that thing appears to be cherry. And another thought, if you plan on a reposer, the original pulley would make it easier.


it is a cherry. sure beats the last one i picked up for free but this one don't run. the last one i got for free ran. i am hoping to get the pulley off.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

its worth about 60-75 new


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ya. if that is all it is worth new then i have a feeling i would only get about half that used.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I thought the same thing, with my auger/impeller assembly, but it worked for me.

And besides sourcing the required items, it's just a matter of filling the bucket up to where you need it, and plug it in. 

If you were to do it, I'd drain the oil, and place it on the bucket vertically. Using some sort of non conductive material to span across the bucket to hold it up, and hook the negative clip to the flywheel nut.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i figure i would give you a bit of an update. got the pulleys off with a 3 jaw puller. it ended up being 2 pulleys. i didn't have a chance to take a look inside the engine yet but will tomorrow. it was just starting to get dark as i pulled the pulleys off.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

good to hear.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Sorry if I missed it, but did you take the crankcase breather plate off to see if the valve tappets are going up and down? I think that the valves may be hung up, and maybe a shot of PB might free them up. Hopefully it's not the worst case scenario, a disaster in the crankcase.
Sid


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i got some bad news. took the side off today and well the cam is snapped into 2 pieces and the gear on the crank is cracked. i have a feeling at this point in time it would most likely be cheaper to just replace the engine than mess with.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Does the broken off end of the cam come out ?? If it snapped it's likely due to the bearing at the end seizing or the one valve seized. Just curious to know what caused the failure.

I have not rebuilt one so I'm not up on parts cost but a used or cheap new engine might be the way to go.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i couldn't get the broken end to move or out so it might have seized like your thinking. 

i don't know the exact cost of a rebuild but at this point in time i have a feeling a new motor would be the better way to go. i might just keep an eye on the fliers and hopefully catch one on sale at a reasonable price.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I would concur on trying to find a suitable replacement. I am sure you have considered this, but another Tecumseh engine might allow you to reuse the electric start.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i bought my 6.5 hp clone nos(new old stock) for 80 on ebay, if you cant get one you could try an h50


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i'm not too worried about re-using the electric start. i usually maintain my equipment good enough that pull starts always start the engine. i am thinking about just waiting to catch one on sale but if i don't get one on sale before winter i might just spend the $215 on a new engine. it is still way cheaper than buying a new snow blower.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

you could sell the usable parts on ebay to fund the new engine


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i don't really care much for selling stuff on ebay but i might sell it for parts and see what i can get for it. i don't think i will get too much for it but will get more for parts than scrap. i know i may not have enough money for a new engine till closer to winter anyway.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well it has only taken a month but the local store finally has a 6.5hp engine on sale for $120 so i am planning on picking 1 up. after taxes it will only cost me $136 which is way cheaper than buying a new snow blower. also been thinking about adding some extra brackets to the snow blower so that it can double as a generator when the power is out. 
6.5 HP 196cc OHV Gas Engine | Princess Auto


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

crazzywolfie said:


> well it has only taken a month but the local store finally has a 6.5hp engine on sale for $120 so i am planning on picking 1 up. after taxes it will only cost me $136 which is way cheaper than buying a new snow blower. also been thinking about adding some extra brackets to the snow blower so that it can double as a generator when the power is out.
> 6.5 HP 196cc OHV Gas Engine | Princess Auto


Good choice. You will be far happier with a good running easy to start 6.5hp OHV engine. I tossed my poorly running Briggs 8hp too and replaced the engine with a good running 6.5hp HF Predator engine which despite what a small yet very vocal minority here on the forum thinks about HF engines all 3 of my Predator 212cc engines run a heck of a lot better than the Tecumseh 5hp ever did even when it was brand new. I am into maintanece as well and I will first try and fix any problems or prevent the problems from occuring in the first place by using a good synthetic oil ( I use Amsoil ) and new spark plug and Seafoam in the gasoline. I hate poorly running stuff and even the mechanic Jackmels says that Tecumseh's can become a bit finicky with old age and I do not have time for finicky either.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well usually any carbed engine runs and start great for me as long as there is no broken parts. i am just hoping the bit bigger 6.5hp engine does not cause any of the other parts to fail. i was thinking about switching to synthetic eventually. as far as gas goes i don't need to run sea foam as long as i keep running premium gas. so far no issues. haven't had to clean the carb on my lawn mower in about 5 years. premium gas up here in Canada contains no ethanol poisoning


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

went shopping the other day and picked it up. looks pretty. just have to clean up the pulleys since they don't slide on right yet plus i figure they would look nicer after a bit of sandblasting and some paint.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

crazzywolfie said:


> went shopping the other day and picked it up. looks pretty. just have to clean up the pulleys since they don't slide on right yet plus i figure they would look nicer after a bit of sandblasting and some paint.


Keep everyone informed and document your swap with pictures here on the forum. You will also need to enlarge your main jet a bit to help with surging during the cold Canadian winters. I sure like my 3 predator engines and the one on my Minibike is nearly 3 years old and still starts in 1 to 2 pulls of the recoil and the bike goes nearly 40mph with just a 12T Maxtor clutch on it. If I put on a TAV like a Comet one or a GTC people have been known to get more than 55mph out of this engine on a minibike however that is tempting fate with a serious road rash injury in the making. No need to worry about biffing at 55mph stock engine clutch combo is fast enough


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

looks real nice, you will enjoy it


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

thanks for the info. i will try documenting things but i don't think there is that much to document other than throw it back together. as far as the main jet goes i will most likely just leave it as it for now and see how it runs in the cold. i don't think i will have too many issues.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

you may want to switch the plug out to an ngk bpr6es. if you live near a boatyard, most also sell ethanol free gas which is better for the carb


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i might stick a NGK spark plug in it eventually but for now it will stay as is. as far as ethanol free gas goes. i can get it at any gas station in town. just have to buy the 91 octane gas. most likely cheaper than a boatyard anyway.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i figure i would give a bit of an update. i haven't fired the engine yet but looks like everything is lining up. thin only issue i ran into are the muffler guard it have to be removed to clear things and the holes in the bottom are not threaded so i have to get longer bolts and some nuts to hold the engine down. should be getting that finished up soon. the only thing i was thinking about was possibly doing some touch ups. anyone know what color they used or a color that is super close? don't want to change the color too much and would like to try making this thing last as long as i can.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i ended up trying chevy orange and it is nearly a perfect match. still have to do some more touch ups and finish bolting things together but it is starting to look good. at least it runs and moves under its own power now.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Nice job so far. It looks like you are missing the auger belt keeper above the belt on the right side of your picture. There should be a threaded hole in the engine block to mount it.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i got the belt keeper and all the parts for it. the only issue i have run into was the holes are not tapped with the same bolt thread so i need to go to the parts store and grab a couple different threaded bolts and see which ones work. the ones out of the old engine look like they have too fine of a thread. otherwise it is coming along good.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

crazzywolfie said:


> well i ended up trying chevy orange and it is nearly a perfect match. still have to do some more touch ups and finish bolting things together but it is starting to look good. at least it runs and moves under its own power now.


 
My snowblower is a 22 inch and I can toss snow 40+ feet with my 212cc HF Predator. On your 20 inch blower that engine will be a beast. You will love the power of the new engine compared to the gutless Tecumseh 5hp


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i never got to use it when it had the 5hp engine on it so i can't really compare the 2. i only got a 6.5hp 196cc engine so we will see how it does. hopefully it is quicker than the 4.5hp yard work 21" single stage snow blower i was using last year. that little blower had no problem throwing snow 40 feet. it is next on my list to get a tune up


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Those little MTD made snow throwers do a pretty good job if properly maintained. Looks like yours is due for a new set of auger rubbers and probably a scraper bar. Replacing the drive belt would be a good idea also. Around $50 for all the parts.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i picked up that little beast around the corner from me for free last year. just had to clean the carb and it ran good most of the winter. ran into some issue toward the end of winter but is still ran. i had to put a new belt on it before i was able to use it last year. worked pretty good. just most of the bolts managed to rattle out lol. it also needs a new cable to engage the auger. was going to red neck it and possibly give it to someone that needs it. as long as it keeps moving snow i personally wont worry about replacing the auger rubber or scaper bar.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well it took a while but i finally got the snow blower all finished up and ready to move snow. painted the chute with black appliance epoxy. it looks good and should hopefully protect the chute from whatever caused the old paint in the chute to wear away. i have been told the appliance epoxy is pretty strong


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