# 27hp 26" Troy-Bilt 42012 Build Thread



## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

Hey all, 

New to the forums, had a brief overview of my blower in the intro forums but figured I would continue updates / discussion here. 

I was gifted a 26" Troy-Bilt by my parents a few years back. It had already been re-powered by me and my dad years ago with a 11hp harbor freight motor. The 11hp did just fine but this past few weeks I decided it was time to step it up a notch.

It's a 42012, great platform to re-power, has a beefy gearbox etc.

I was originally looking at modifying a 420cc harbor freight motor, but I was talked into the 460cc "big bore" kit.

Link to motor kit.
https://vegascarts.com/products/460cc-go-kart-racing-engine-diy-assembly

Kit came with a billet rod, high torque cam, HD pushrods, 35lb valve springs, ported carb. Makes an estimated 27hp and 46ftlbs of tq(others have proven these figures on dynos with karts).. Revs to 5k easy.

Very impressed with the quality vs price point for this kit. Assembly was pretty simple considering I grew up rebuilding dirtbike/car motors.

Exhaust tip is a 30$ dirtbike tip off eBay. Looped header is a "torque tube" from a race kart company.

Came without a fuel tank. So had to make a custom Mount to make the older 11hp motors tank work. After I got it mounted I was concerned about fuel delivery/volume so I added a vacuum powered diaphragm pump.

Put two charging coils on the motor. Gutted all the factory wiring, and made a quick custom PCB with a bridge rectifier and a bunch of small and large caps to help filter AC ripple and to also keep some juice in reserve.

The motor doesn't have a governor... So I added a throttle lever next to the right grip, it's in a good place to to throttle up/down when the power is needed.

I braced up the plate where the case below output shaft of the motor mounts to the machine. Instead of one bolt I have 4 good bolts going into a solid plate to hopefully stiffen things up.

I have a digital tach, although I'm considering buying a big oversized dial tach to replace it, just would look cooler lol.

Also have a 24" light bar on the way that will be mounted to the front of the blower.

Next and hopefully final modification is to throw some rubber onto the impeller to get rid of the classic impeller Gap. Although after I'm pondering if I it's worth the energy to get the impeller balanced at a shop somehow (so far no vibration at high revs so we'll see).

And to answer. YES I know this is to much motor for any blower really. But hey it will be fun and we'll see what else I break in the process, I have a backup plow on my quad if something fails etc. 

So far I got about 550$ into this project, it has been fun to tinker on and hopefully rewarding first snow fall &#55357;&#56898; 

Quick preview (before i installed the throttle lever)






Thoughts?


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## zandor (Dec 15, 2017)

That looks pretty awesome. But... too much power? Nah. It has a throttle, it's fine.  I still want to see someone build a "Wisconsin Special" -- an Ariens with a Harley-Davidson V-twin on it. Alas, I am too busy working on the estate sale house I bought last year for such projects.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

thats really cool. have you maybe thought about relocating the fuel tank on the bucket or something like that to help move the weight forward and you got a fuel pump. i also figure it would make it a lot easier to make a shield to cover the governor/throttle linkage.

also hard to tell from the pics but almost looks like you might need some new skids on you machine.


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

crazzywolfie said:


> have you maybe thought about relocating the fuel tank on the bucket or something like that to help move the weight forward and you got a fuel pump.


Nope, but to be honest its still pretty balanced in terms of weight, the motor isnt that heavy. Maybe 60lbs? not worth the effort to move it IMO. 



crazzywolfie said:


> also hard to tell from the pics but almost looks like you might need some new skids on you machine.


Didnt realize that! they probably are due, never been changed. Should i just buy OEM or is there another option people recommend? 
If oem then this will do?
https://www.jthomasparts.com/780-12...MIrKX1_pSF3wIVqx-tBh1YGgwrEAYYASABEgLxjvD_BwE


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i just figure the extra weight up front would help keep the bucket down when moving snow. if you don't have enough weight the bucket will sometimes lift. i just figure since your running a fuel pump it might be something to consider. i don't think your current setup even requires a fuel pump unless i am missing something. carb still looks like it is below the tank and can be gravity fed. 

i am not sure. i think it really depends on the surface your working on. i saw some with rollers on them that looked pretty cool. 
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/toro-snowblowers/145009-roller-skids.html#post1618053


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

crazzywolfie said:


> i just figure the extra weight up front would help keep the bucket down when moving snow. if you don't have enough weight the bucket will sometimes lift. i just figure since your running a fuel pump it might be something to consider. i don't think your current setup even requires a fuel pump unless i am missing something. carb still looks like it is below the tank and can be gravity fed.
> 
> i am not sure. i think it really depends on the surface your working on. i saw some with rollers on them that looked pretty cool.
> https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/toro-snowblowers/145009-roller-skids.html#post1618053


Yeah I hear ya. When i first installed it I did without the pump. But the mfgr recommended a pump and it was backfiring so I was trying to eliminate any fueling issues before I re-jet it. Although it might just be the nature of the beast with an advanced timing key and a aggressive cam :grin:. Current game plan is to run it in snow for 30 min and as long as the plug doesn't look to lean and it stays cool i'm going to leave the jets as is. 


Also, just ended up buying a set of these. 
https://www.theoempartsstore.com/skid-shoe-troy-bilt-1728567001-780-126.html


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Oh **** yeah. Dude that’s some fun stuff. Definitely going to need some snow blowing footage of it in action. 

I have one real concern... no governor. It may prove tedious to operate in snow.


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

drmerdp said:


> I have one real concern... no governor. It may prove tedious to operate in snow.


Yeah i was thinking the same, we will see how it much of a pain it is to throttle it up and down under load. Hoping it isnt to bad and that the motors torque will eliminate the need to throttle up all the time etc. 

BUT. if it is annoying enough, i was thinking it would make a great project for me to tinker with a microcontroller :grin:

Was thinking a cam positioning sensor on the PTO, servo for throttle, some type of throttle lever w/ potentiometer, hooked up to an arduino.. With the proper code you could get a throttle "servo" to keep the motor at a set rpm based of throttle lever percentage etc. But im trying to not make things to complicated here lol


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

In the 5th pic on top line showing the engine without gas tank it appears you have a governor mechanism that is missing a spring on the short arm. I am assuming the vertical "rod" connects to a flyweight inside the engine. If that is the case then add a strong spring that pulls the throttle fully open at rest and adjust the tension to deliver the rpm you want. If you are unsure of how fast to run the engine then connect the throttle to the governor spring mounting away from short governor rod to adjust its tension.

There is no heat box around the carb so in cold weather you may get icing. It is uncommon to have air filters on the crankcase breather and the carb intake. I would expect that both will get blocked from snow and ice particles.

That is a lot of power to drive the auger/impeller with a single belt.


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

Town said:


> In the 5th pic on top line showing the engine without gas tank it appears you have a governor mechanism that is missing a spring on the short arm. I am assuming the vertical "rod" connects to a flyweight inside the engine. If that is the case then add a strong spring that pulls the throttle fully open at rest and adjust the tension to deliver the rpm you want. If you are unsure of how fast to run the engine then connect the throttle to the governor spring mounting away from short governor rod to adjust its tension.
> 
> There is no heat box around the carb so in cold weather you may get icing. It is uncommon to have air filters on the crankcase breather and the carb intake. I would expect that both will get blocked from snow and ice particles.
> 
> That is a lot of power to drive the auger/impeller with a single belt.


Theres no governer inside of the case itself. The rod/shady is just there as a point to install a throttle cable too. They send them without a governer so they can rev to 7k lol.


I have an outerwear pre filter air filter bag on the way to help with any possible moister buildup etc. Valve cover filter just looks cool, we'll see if it stays.

As for the single belt/pulley. Yeah we'll see how it holds up in the current config. If I start snapping belts ill figure out how sandwich pulleys in the mix


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* You spent all that money 4 the engine. but I hope you have some left over to get some new skid shoes 4 it. there is nothing left of the old 1's. k:k:k:k:k:*


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * You spent all that money 4 the engine. but I hope you have some left over to get some new skid shoes 4 it. there is nothing left of the old 1's. *


Got a pair coming in the mail!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I went with the stock Ariens ones but I'm on gravel. https://parts.ariens.com/Ariens-Sno-Thro-Skid-Shoe-Kit-p/72101100.htm They work great for that. I did move them forward of the stock placement. The forward holes were already there just not set up for carriage bolts. Saw a youtube video of how to use washers on one side with the nut to pull the carriage bolt through the metal and make it fit. Worked great.
If it was paved or concrete I'd likely go with something plastic. The Ariens are a world ahead of the Troy's and they are reversible too.
Toro makes some that are cast iron #38212 but I needed them that day and Home Depot had the Ariens ones on hand. :grin:

I know you already ordered some for yours but for the next guy maybe this would be a good option.

.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

CTtroybilt said:


> Was thinking a cam positioning sensor on the PTO, servo for throttle, some type of throttle lever w/ potentiometer, hooked up to an arduino.. With the proper code you could get a throttle "servo" to keep the motor at a set rpm based of throttle lever percentage etc. But im trying to not make things to complicated here lol


Now that would be really cool  My RPM sags some, and the throttle plate still won't be fully-open, so the Tecumseh governor isn't doing its job perfectly. It makes the engine behave weaker than it actually is. 

It will be interesting to see how it does with no governor. Lots of power doesn't mean a governor isn't needed, sadly. The RPM will still sag when a load is applied, since obviously you were only providing enough throttle to reach the RPM while unloaded. In a hobby (R/C helicopters), governors to maintain constant motor RPM are a big help. And even powerful setups will speed up and slow down significantly as the rotor load varies, if you aren't using a governor. 

RPM sag is an annoyance, but the bigger risk is when a heavy load is suddenly reduced (extreme example: clearing deep End Of Driveway, then you blow the belt) and the RPMs shoot up. You could over-rev the engine. Though with the upgraded internals, hopefully it would withstand the extra stress. 

A tach with a redline/shift light would be fun  

What's the cam sensor for? You don't care about things like ignition timing. Or is that just used to give you an RPM signal to work with? At least theoretically, you could get engine RPM from the spark plug wire, like the tach/hour meter units. Maybe reducing engine-surgery slightly. 

Separate from the upgraded engine side of things, I think a better governor would be a cool project  It annoys me when my engine slows down some, but isn't actually out of power. Admittedly, it might be nice to have a spare blower as well, while working out the kinks during a blizzard!


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> What's the cam sensor for? You don't care about things like ignition timing. Or is that just used to give you an RPM signal to work with? At least theoretically, you could get engine RPM from the spark plug wire, like the tach/hour meter units. Maybe reducing engine-surgery slightly.


Yeah i thought of that, i just figured a cam sensor with a magnetic pickup would be an easier variable to deal with to pickup RPM since they most likely work off of a 0-5v refrence etc.



RedOctobyr said:


> Separate from the upgraded engine side of things, I think a better governor would be a cool project  It annoys me when my engine slows down some, but isn't actually out of power. Admittedly, it might be nice to have a spare blower as well, while working out the kinks during a blizzard!


Yeah luckily i have a Honda foreman 4x4 with a plow that does the job for me if need be. And If i was to do this all over again i would have gotten an old spare Honda HS928 to throw this motor on :grin:


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> Separate from the upgraded engine side of things, I think a better governor would be a cool project  It annoys me when my engine slows down some, but isn't actually out of power.


Well i think i found the easy way out that wouldn't require me writing any python/groovy to handle the sensor interaction etc. would just be a matter of wiring it up and playing with the sensor gains. Could then run the "speed control trim" as the throttle. 

https://www.amazon.com/Friday-Part-Electronic-Controller-Generator/dp/B06Y2XDVM4/ref=asc_df_B06Y2XDVM4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312484993382&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=592751317060749942&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003172&hvtargid=pla-569853370282&psc=1

see the PDF for the unit here. 
http://www.governors-america.com/documents/PIB1002E_ESD5500E.pdf

could run the magnetic pickup off of the flywheel. Just would need to find an actuator that isn't completely overkill, looks like all the kits come with an actuator meant for a 50kv genset lol

Like this.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Generator-Ad...oller-Msp6729-Magnetic-RPM-Sensor/24021345058


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## 132619 (Nov 20, 2018)

CTtroybilt said:


> Yeah luckily i have a Honda foreman 4x4 with a plow that does the job for me if need be. And If i was to do this all over again i would have gotten an old spare Honda HS928 to throw this motor on :grin:


nice work,hope you have a good time w it, 
yamie rhino with a 66 inch 24 hp honda bercomac for me, inclosed sit down with HEAT


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

nice work! cant wait for the video of it moving snow (gino would be proud !). if it works out , its time to add electric chute and deflector control.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if your going to go through all the work of making a electric governor why don't you just go fuel injected?


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

crazzywolfie said:


> if your going to go through all the work of making a electric governor why don't you just go fuel injected?


That would require, 02 sensor/Map sensor/throttle body/injectors/electric pump/ software and tuning. not sure if that would be the easier way out, although i am thinking about making a badass go-kart with the same motor, and if i was to throw a small turbo on itgrin i would have to go EFI.


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

You will not have any issues with the air filters icing up with the heat the engine will create with the cooling fan.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

CTtroybilt said:


> That would require, 02 sensor/Map sensor/throttle body/injectors/electric pump/ software and tuning. not sure if that would be the easier way out, although i am thinking about making a badass go-kart with the same motor, and if i was to throw a small turbo on itgrin i would have to go EFI.


Haha, now we’re talking. 

I love the idea of electronic throttle control, (Egov). Mechanical governors are inherently lazy. Mechanical works well, but an electric governor will respond and hold rpms way better. Just look at the iGX generator engines.

I’ve wondered what it would take to retrofit the iGX controls to my gx390. Haven’t gone down the rabbit hole yet.


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

So, been preparing myself to rip belts. been looking around for a way to add a belt etc. 

Wondering how useful buying this kit will be.. 
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/ariens/72600700

Looks like the OEM PTO Pulley for the Ariens 926100 is very similar to the one im running on my Troybilt now. 
https://parts.ariens.com/product-p/04498700.htm

And that lower pulley in the kit looks identical to the one i have now (just with two channels). 

So im thinking taking a chance with the dual belt kit might be a good start? 


Thoughts? any other options out there?


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## 132619 (Nov 20, 2018)

crazzywolfie said:


> if your going to go through all the work of making a electric governor why don't you just go fuel injected?


that motor with the right carb won't need Fi, just a tank load of race methanol . blow snow and get a buzz at the same time


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If it doesn't fit or you can't make it fit at least you can likely resell it. It's a nice upgrade to any single belt Ariens that accepts it.
With your engine I don't know I'd be worried about breaking belts but slipping is a whole different animal.

When you bought your kit did it come with the starter or was that something you needed to source separately ?? Charging coil too ??

.


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> When you bought your kit did it come with the starter or was that something you needed to source separately ?? Charging coil too ??


Starter is off of my 11hp clone from harbor freight, bolted right on. no battery but if she gets hard to start at any point its nice to have for a jump. 

And for a charging coil, i bought two of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9T5VPW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

although im not very impressed with their output. it dips to 9volts with a 5 amp load. will probably be looking into a bigger one like this..
https://www.nrracing.com/product-p/31630-ze2-w01.htm
But without the ridiculous pricetag 220$.. not sure where else i can get one similar, have to keep an eye out


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

Never too much power :devil:
Ditch the air filter, it will ice up on you. put a straight cover on it.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

OH MAMA :surprise: When it says "Genuine Honda" do they just automatically double the price ?? Even the smaller output coils are ridiculously priced IMHO if they have that Honda stamp on them. It's a really nice chunk of machined aluminum with copper but $220, are ya kiddin' me :crying:

Does the flywheel in the kit have the inside magnets or did you need to swap flywheels too ??

.


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Does the flywheel in the kit have the inside magnets or did you need to swap flywheels too ??


The flywheel had two magnets inside, opposite of eachother. pretty sure that standard for most? not sure if that more advanced coil requires a different flywheel though.

This is the flywheel that came with the kit. 25$!
https://vegascarts.com/collections/...wheel-w-ring-gear-for-gx390-420cc-460cc-clone



So, in regards to the dual belt kit. called ariens. 

the smaller kit 72600700 has a 37.3" belt, and the bigger kit (72600800) for 13hp uses a 38.23" belt. Thats the ONLY difference between the two kits. 


I found a manual that breaks down the part numbers for the kit here. 
http://www.polarisdb.com/dload/72600700_install.pdf


I ordered 72600800. so we'll see how that plays out. regardless its a deal considering the lower dual pulley alone is 60$


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

So we finally got some snow!

Ended up being about 7-8" packed down with almost an inch of sleet. so it was heavy to go through but fluffy in the air at the same time. 

Seemed to throw it pretty well, engine didn't really hesitate at all. 

I did burn up the impeller belt at the end when getting cocky in a snowbank, but im happy it failed when i did. next step, custom dual belt setup.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Ha, very cool! That seems mighty powerful, quite a rooster tail! I'll bet it'll be even more fun when you can get 2 belts on the impeller.


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## tdipaul (Jul 11, 2015)

.

nice!

is this machine running with an impeller kit installed?

.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

CTtroybilt said:


> Hey all,
> 
> New to the forums, had a brief overview of my blower in the intro forums but figured I would continue updates / discussion here.
> 
> ...



I love this. A man after my own heart. Something I'd do. This is how you get even with the plow truck after they plow in your driveway. Blow it back at the truck from a block away.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

CTtroybilt said:


> So we finally got some snow!
> 
> Ended up being about 7-8" packed down with almost an inch of sleet. so it was heavy to go through but fluffy in the air at the same time.
> 
> ...



Offically my snowblower hero.


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

tdipaul said:


> .
> 
> nice!
> 
> ...


Yes, 1/2" rubber with .030 clearance between the impeller/impeller wall. Impeller was also balanced too


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## Buttchet (Mar 5, 2013)

great snowblower porn. thanks for sharing, its awesome


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## barney (Nov 21, 2017)

That's the coolest blower I've seen yet. You need a Hooker Header maybe.


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## Lottstodo (Feb 16, 2018)

Well Done!!! Tim Allen would be Proud. AAARGH !! Love more power!!!!

Now the old firefighter in me has a word of caution. That rooster tail looks very impressive, and looks to be able to reach great heights. Just be mindful of the power lines as electricity can travel through a moisture fog and stream including wet snow if conditions are right.



BUT I LOVE IT !!!!!


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

Lottstodo said:


> Now the old firefighter in me has a word of caution. That rooster tail looks very impressive, and looks to be able to reach great heights. Just be mindful of the power lines as electricity can travel through a moisture fog and stream including wet snow if conditions are right.


I was actually thinking about the same thing after watching the video, last thing i want is to cause a ground situation with that single 15KV primary by the street... going to make sure the rooster tail stays clear of it next time..


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## barney (Nov 21, 2017)

Lottstodo said:


> Well Done!!! Tim Allen would be Proud. AAARGH !! Love more power!!!!
> 
> Now the old firefighter in me has a word of caution. That rooster tail looks very impressive, and looks to be able to reach great heights. Just be mindful of the power lines as electricity can travel through a moisture fog and stream including wet snow if conditions are right.
> 
> ...


Dam. That's a good catch/point. That would be a hard way to go. And embarrassing!


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

CTtroybilt said:


> I was actually thinking about the same thing after watching the video, last thing i want is to cause a ground situation with that single 15KV primary by the street... going to make sure the rooster tail stays clear of it next time..


Maybe modified forms of the basic firearms safety rules apply? 


Always keep your chute pointed in a safe direction.
Treat your snowblower as if it is loaded.
Keep your auger hand off of the lever until you are ready to fire.
Be certain of your target, your line of fire, and what lies beyond your target.
Always wear appropriate eye and ear protection when chuting your snowblower.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

CTtroybilt said:


> I was actually thinking about the same thing after watching the video, last thing i want is to cause a ground situation with that single 15KV primary by the street... going to make sure the rooster tail stays clear of it next time..


Wow! Which wire is 15kV??


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

RedOctobyr said:


> Wow! Which wire is 15kV??


The ones on the other side of the transformer from your house, that run up and down the street. That's why backfeeding a generator illegally without isolation is so bad. Transformers work both ways and will cheerfully turn generator output back into between 1000 volts (1 kV) and 69 kV on the primary, used for distribution in urban and rural areas.


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## CTtroybilt (Dec 3, 2018)

tabora said:


> The ones on the other side of the transformer from your house, that run up and down the street. That's why backfeeding a generator illegally without isolation is so bad. Transformers work both ways and will cheerfully turn generator output back into between 1000 volts (1 kV) and 69 kV on the primary, used for distribution in urban and rural areas.



Exactly. The wires (or sometime a single wire) on the top of the pole is the "primary" HV line, they can be between 12,000v to 35,000v depending on the area... That "primary" line feeds the transformers to make 240v for the Low voltage lines that hang a little lower on the pole, which then go into your house. 

This makes it pretty clear











To bad Mythbusters wasn't around, that would make a great episode for them to test :grin:


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