# Does anyone own a Husqvarna 10-30e snowblower? (Friction plate always spinning)



## jaytpilk

Hi all. I have an awesome (albeit older) Husqy 10-30E snowblower and after finally getting a 'new' friction wheel (a Yamaha part!!!) I thought I was all set to welcome Winter and snowblow with ease. However, as soon as I move the shifter from neutral and drop it into whichever gear I choose - it engages the wheels. When I squeeze the "drive" lever with my left hand, it's further engaged (drives stronger), which ...obviously makes sense. 

I removed the belly pan and sure enough, as soon as I start the machine - with the gear/drive selector in the Neutral slot, that friction plate spins. Fast. Removing the plastic belt cover, and sure enough, the drive belt is engaged and spinning with the turn of the engine.

The idler pulley is as far out of the way as it can be, touching the metal frame of the machine. Could I have the wrong belt in there that is just a little too tight? I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. Obviously that moves the friction plate (or "disc") up and down. But the fact that it is spinning as soon as the mower starts is not right, I assume. (Because you'd wear a flat spot on your friction wheel by just putting it into, say, 2nd gear or reverse --- without actuating the drive level with your left hand --- and the friction wheel is now being driven by the friction plate/disc ...

Am I missing something? Any suggestions? Again, thinking that I must have the wrong Drive belt in there....??

Thank you in advance.

Jay


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## BullFrog

From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


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## dr bob

I'll second BullFrog's suggestion, but with maybe a slightly -longer- belt so it releases when the drive handle is relaxed. The diameters of the two friction wheels may be slightly different, and as he mentions there's the belt width to consider too. Regardless, the belt you need will be loose enough with drive handle released to not drive belt to the friction wheel. 

In a perfect-drive world, the belt will be wide enough to let the belt sit at or just shy of the OD of the V-groove in the pulleys. The belt drives from the sides of the V near the top. The actual drive-release and engage happens at the engine pulley end just because of the smaller diameter and smaller friction area, so the width is probably best determined there if the groove widths are different.

I'll also warn that while it's tempting to play with length on FHP (fractional horsepower) belts at the hardware store, you are really looking for a stronger Kevlar/Aramid or better belt to handle the snow throwing loads.

Advice retracted...  

I was foolishly thinking of the auger drive mechanism. As others state, the friction wheel always turns with the engine, and engage/disengage is handled by the drive wheel contact with the friction wheel face. Lengthen the pull linkage or cable to allow the tire on that drive wheel to to move away from the friction face completely. 

sorry...


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## LenD

And don't use an automotive drive belt; use one that is rated for snowblower, power equipment, etc (ie power-rated belt). Car belts won't take the abuse.


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## paulm12

I don't know about Husky snowblowers, but every 2 stage I have worked on the traction pulley is always spinning with the engine. The traction pulley idler is set to remove any slop in the belt, but not too tight as to tension the belt. The handle lever then drops the friction disc onto the moving friction plate (often the pulley), thus engaging the wheels. There is an adjustment for the handle lever linkage such that the friction disc is just above the always spinning plate, and comes into contact when the lever is actuated.

thanks


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## Oneacer

Many styles have the drive plate swing, i.e pull into, the fixed friction drive wheel, which is already in its selected gear.


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## jaytpilk

BullFrog said:


> From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


Thank you. How would I loosen the belt? And I would think - to loosen the "belt" - that I wouldn't want to try a slightly shorter belt, but, a slightly longer one, right?

One other challenge here is that, every website I look to for parts diagrams on this machine (model number 954201031d ) say that there are no longer parts diagrams available. So i can't confidently confirm the correct part number for the correct belt. Any chance that someone out there knows what the part number is for the correct drive belt?

Thanks all!!!

Jay


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## jaytpilk

I found the following belt and ordered it - hopefully it fits/works: *Husqvarna 531002591*


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## paulm12

I'm still at a loss why you are looking at the belt. As I mentioned, on all machines I have worked on, if the traction is always engaged, it is a linkage problem, not a drive belt problem. You stated "
I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. " I think this is where the problem lies.

thanks.


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## JJG723

The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


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## jaytpilk

Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral? 

The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear". 

With that friction plate spinning so fast ---- WITHOUT THE LEFT HAND DRIVE LEVER SQUEEZED --- the moment the shift selector is taken out of Neutral and moved to a 'gear', say 2nd gear, and I allow the selector to pop into that gear slot, the friction plate RAISES UP and engages the friction wheel and shes off to the races. I don't even have to squeeze the lefthand lever.

And if I were to adjust the the linkage, all that would do is move the friction plate away from the wheel (or adjusted in the other direction, closer to it ...and it's already TOO close). How can it be that the wheel is supposed to come into contact with the friction disc/plate WHILE IT'S SPINNING and the drive lever not squeezed??? It would wear a flat spot on the friction wheel's rubber.


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## jaytpilk

JJG723 said:


> The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.

I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.

(sorry, just very confused)


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## Oneacer

Lol .... I got confused just reading and trying to decipher your interpretation of what is going on .... I

In my travels, I have come across many different friction wheel drive setups ....... Although they may be different in there operations, they are all pretty straight forward ..... Most can be easily adjusted, and some a little harder .... They all work in rhythm with springs, bushings, bearings, cable, rods, shafts, etc., Etc. ....... As well as the rubber wearing out or getting chewed up .... Levers bend, springs break or stretch , and on and on .....

Sometimes one has to look at what a machine condition is and how or how not it is performing by doing a hands on inspection and some detective work.

Maybe its a long day and I'm ready for bed ..... Lol


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## Darby

jaytpilk said:


> Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.
> 
> I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.
> 
> (sorry, just very confused)


The premise is the lever swings the plate, not tightens belt. linkage.


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## oneboltshort

The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable. 
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


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## paulm12

jaytpilk said:


> Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral?
> 
> The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear".
> 
> With that friction plate spinning so fast ---- WITHOUT THE LEFT HAND DRIVE LEVER SQUEEZED --- the moment the shift selector is taken out of Neutral and moved to a 'gear', say 2nd gear, and I allow the selector to pop into that gear slot, the friction plate RAISES UP and engages the friction wheel and shes off to the races. I don't even have to squeeze the lefthand lever.
> 
> And if I were to adjust the the linkage, all that would do is move the friction plate away from the wheel (or adjusted in the other direction, closer to it ...and it's already TOO close). How can it be that the wheel is supposed to come into contact with the friction disc/plate WHILE IT'S SPINNING and the drive lever not squeezed??? It would wear a flat spot on the friction wheel's rubber.



maybe this shows the mechanism we have been trying to explain


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## oneboltshort

I think this is the exact assembly


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## jaytpilk

oneboltshort said:


> I think this is the exact assembly


Yes, this is my machine and the video was a question on how to get the friction wheel off it's axle. I finally figured that out


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## jaytpilk

oneboltshort said:


> The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable.
> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
> 
> View attachment 181567


Thank you. This helps a lot, and may be showing/telling me what my issue is. (I'm about to upload a video I just took which shows what's going on ...but at the end of the day, that red circle/section above === What actuates that to pivot up and/or down? The drive lever? My drive lever has no impact on that thing - and frankly nothing does. So I believe that's my issue: To figure out why my friction plate/disc does not pivot/swing up or down. The only thing that "slides" it up and down is the shift selector.


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## jaytpilk

First of all: THANK YOU to everyone who is chiming in and helping me!!!! As I eluded above to Oneboltshort, I believe my issue is that the arm that should be swinging/pivoting my friction plate/disc up and down, ain't doin nuthing. Here's the video I just took:


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## oneboltshort

It looks like your drive handle only engages the drive pulley belt, look at approx :25. The handle for the shifter appears to both move the friction wheel side to side and tension the driven plate up to it.
I cannot find ANY manual for this even on Husq's web site. From reading around it appears this is a Yamaha design trans?
From what I see, it looks as if you need to loosen the idler pulley bolt and slide it starboard and see if that relieves some static friction on the drive belt.


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## Oneacer

There is something definitely wrong with your drive lever interaction/connection ... as soon as that lever is released, you should stop moving .... as well as when you put it in gear, it should not jump into gear without you pressing the drive lever. ... I am under the impression maybe a return spring is missing, or something broke ... you will have to do some detective work as I mentioned.

Yamaha part on a Husky ? does not sound right?

Have you always owned this machine? Have you worked on this before? Have you just picked it up from someone else who worked on this prior to you?


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## oneboltshort

Oneacer said:


> Yamaha part on a Husky ? does not sound right?



Found a Husqvarna cousin
Yamaha made Husky?


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## Oneacer

" you can shift on the fly, the shift control is the clutch and selector all in one "

If indeed there is some connection to a Yamaha drive system, or some type of hybrid, it may be a bit more configured and complicated than a normal friction drive system ... indeed more detective work for sure, or maybe someone who owns a Yamaha wheeled unit might chime in ... ?


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## jaytpilk

oneboltshort said:


> It looks like your drive handle only engages the drive pulley belt, look at approx :25. The handle for the shifter appears to both move the friction wheel side to side and tension the driven plate up to it.
> I cannot find ANY manual for this even on Husq's web site. From reading around it appears this is a Yamaha design trans?
> From what I see, it looks as if you need to loosen the idler pulley bolt and slide it starboard and see if that relieves some static friction on the drive belt.
> View attachment 181571


Thanks onebolt - what you're saying is exactly what is happening. (Drive lever ONLY actuates idler pulley into drive belt --- does NOTHING to the friction disc/plate). And as luck would have it, I thought of what you recommended, to adjust idler pulley starboard and away from belt ...but it's already as far starboard as possible. It's actually up against the rightmost side of the machine. THIS is why I think I have the wrong belt in there, given everything else (shift selector actuates friction plate UP into the friction wheel, and it takes off running because the drive belt is CONSTANTLY engaged and thus the friction plate CONSTANTLY spinning).


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## jaytpilk

Oneacer said:


> There is something definitely wrong with your drive lever interaction/connection ... as soon as that lever is released, you should stop moving .... as well as when you put it in gear, it should not jump into gear without you pressing the drive lever. ... I am under the impression maybe a return spring is missing, or something broke ... you will have to do some detective work as I mentioned.
> 
> Yamaha part on a Husky ? does not sound right?
> 
> Have you always owned this machine? Have you worked on this before? Have you just picked it up from someone else who worked on this prior to you?


Thanks Oneacer. I may have to respectfully disagree with your first statement about "something definitely wrong with your drive lever". NOW, I certainly do not know for sure, that's why I posted my situation. But others are coming around and realizing that what I'm saying about the shift selector engaging the friction disc, and the belt constantly spinning even without the drive lever engaged... Who knows, but, I feel like I'm getting closer to the solution; (new belt).

"Yamaha part on a Husky?" Yessir. On a previous post, (I can try and find it and list it here), but, when I was looking for a new friction wheel (the one with the rubber outer circumference) I could not find the Husqvarna part number; given the age of my machine I gather. I think it may have been made in 1996. But someone chimed in that a Yamaha friction wheel had all the same specs: circumference, bolt pattern, center hole diameter... Sure enough, I bought one on ebay and it's a perfect fit!!! 

I have owned the machine for about 8 years. I've only done "normal" tune up work to it, and then started working on the friction wheel last year ...or the year before. When I finally got the new (Yamaha) friction wheel, I felt re-invigorated to get this old girl back up and running (I do have a monster Ariens 1336, which is awesome, but, wanted to have my ol' 1030 as a back up).


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## jaytpilk

Oneacer said:


> " you can shift on the fly, the shift control is the clutch and selector all in one "
> 
> If indeed there is some connection to a Yamaha drive system, or some type of hybrid, it may be a bit more configured and complicated than a normal friction drive system ... indeed more detective work for sure, or maybe someone who owns a Yamaha wheeled unit might chime in ... ?


This gives me incredible relief, (that I'm not outta my mind), and that ...it sounds like my Husqy 10-30e may share some similarity with a Yamaha setup, because as mentioned above, the friction wheel I got is for sure for Yamaha and everything you said about shifting on the fly and "the shift control is the clutch and selector all in one" --- That's what I've been sayin


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## jaytpilk

jaytpilk said:


> This gives me incredible relief, (that I'm not outta my mind), and that ...it sounds like my Husqy 10-30e may share some similarity with a Yamaha setup, because as mentioned above, the friction wheel I got is for sure for Yamaha and everything you said about shifting on the fly and "the shift control is the clutch and selector all in one" --- That's what I've been sayin


I found these two Replies to my post a year or so ago:

#7 · Feb 27, 2019

Made by Husqvarna but they should share some parts with the 80s/90s Yamaha YS624/YS828 models.

I'm willing to bet the Yamaha friction wheels would work.... but the Yamaha friction wheel is.... are you ready? Over 100 dollars!


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## jaytpilk

jaytpilk said:


> I found these two Replies to my post a year or so ago:
> 
> #7 · Feb 27, 2019
> 
> Made by Husqvarna but they should share some parts with the 80s/90s Yamaha YS624/YS828 models.
> 
> I'm willing to bet the Yamaha friction wheels would work.... but the Yamaha friction wheel is.... are you ready? Over 100 dollars!


And then this one, both posts from a user here called "db130":

Yes, buy the Yamaha 624 friction wheel as mentioned in post #7. BTW, your part number is off by a digit. It should be 531002506.

If you do a Google Image search for that part number, you will see that it is about 4.75" in diameter with 3 mounting holes about 120 degrees apart.



> >Click me<<


Do a Google Image search for the Yamaha YS624 friction wheel, you will also see that it is about 4.75" in diameter with 3 mounting holes about 120 degrees apart.



> >>Click me too!<<<





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## jaytpilk

Well. A brand new OEM belt does not solve it. As soon as I start the snowblower, the drive belt/pulley/friction disc or plate spins. Taking the shift selector from "Neutral" and dropping it into gear - machine takes off running. Don't need to even touch the drive lever... What the heck. Here's a video: 




Thanks for any help/suggestions.


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## Oneacer

You mention you had the machine for 8 years .... How did it work for all those years?

You will need to go visually through its entire operation, to see what is going on, and how to remedy it back to how you had it previously operating, as I assume I years ago it ran fine.


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## jaytpilk

The only thing I can think of, since the drive sheaves are separated (two halves that come together and form the pulley/sheave), is if there is supposed to be a small disk between them - to open up the distance between them, just a little, so as to no engage/grab drive belt as much. ???


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## jaytpilk

Oneacer said:


> You mention you had the machine for 8 years .... How did it work for all those years?
> 
> You will need to go visually through its entire operation, to see what is going on, and how to remedy it back to how you had it previously operating, as I assume I years ago it ran fine.


I don't recall it operating like this when I first got it. I don't know what I could have done to it to make it operate the way it is now.


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## Oneacer

On the Ariens older 10000 series, you depress the lever to take it out of gear, it will drive and blow all by itself .... Complete opposite to today's machines, where when you let go of the clutch lever, the machine stops ...Certainly a safety issue by today's standards ..... You sure that machine is not set up like that? Anyone mess with it ... As I stated , that is surely not right in its current situation.


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## Oneacer

Maybe someone hooked a spring wrong, incorrect rod or cable placement, etc....


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## jaytpilk

Oneacer said:


> Maybe someone hooked a spring wrong, incorrect rod or cable placement, etc....


That I do not know. I keep looking at the schematic diagrams to see how things should go together, but, ....just not seeing anything out of place. I just seems that the belt is too tight - that I don't even have to engage the idler pulley and it's "off to the races" driving the pulley that spins the friction disc. I'll just have to keep digging. Thanks Oneacer.


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## Oneacer

The is 3/8 and 1/2 belts ..... Same length can still be big difference.

Take your time and walk slowly through everything ..... You'll get it ... Do you have a family or friend, neighbor that is mechanically inclined that can assist you in looking at it in person?


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## jaytpilk

Oneacer said:


> The is 3/8 and 1/2 belts ..... Same length can still be big difference.
> 
> Take your time and walk slowly through everything ..... You'll get it ... Do you have a family or friend, neighbor that is mechanically inclined that can assist you in looking at it in person?


Yep. Without laughing, I thought I was THAT guy, the mechanical smarty pants! But I do have a friend who's good - will get him back over. Thanks.


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## jaytpilk

Oneacer said:


> The is 3/8 and 1/2 belts ..... Same length can still be big difference.
> 
> Take your time and walk slowly through everything ..... You'll get it ... Do you have a family or friend, neighbor that is mechanically inclined that can assist you in looking at it in person?


I've got the exact part number belt that Husqy calls for. Seems closer to 1/2 than 3/8 and I agree that I feel if I had a 3/8, it would not grab the moment the engine starts, and solve my problem. But having confirmed I have the right part, I'm at a loss in that regard.


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## paulm12

so I am still wondering why you think this machine does not operate like most that I have seen. Do you have a user manual for it? This manual (1027 machine) shows that the lever engages the drive disc when depressed, and when not depressed, the disc is returned away from the always driving pulley/plate. Shifting or changing speeds without the lever depressed doesn't make the machine move. I have not seen you confirm that your machine operates differently on purpose. I apologize if I missed that

thanks






Husqvarna 1027STE : Snow Blower Owner's Manual : Page 11


Find and download user guides and product manuals




www.manualshelf.com


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## jaytpilk

paulm12 said:


> so I am still wondering why you think this machine does not operate like most that I have seen. Do you have a user manual for it? This manual (1027 machine) shows that the lever engages the drive disc when depressed, and when not depressed, the disc is returned away from the always driving pulley/plate. Shifting or changing speeds without the lever depressed doesn't make the machine move. I have not seen you confirm that your machine operates differently on purpose. I apologize if I missed that
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Husqvarna 1027STE : Snow Blower Owner's Manual : Page 11
> 
> 
> Find and download user guides and product manuals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.manualshelf.com


I have two levers: The one that controls the idler pulley for the auger and the other lever that controls the "drive". Now, on mine, the ONLY thing that the driver lever does, (on my machine), is engage the idler pulley that tensions the drive belt. Nothing else. It does not, in the slightest, move the friction plate/disc. The only thing that moves the friction plate/disc is the shift selector.

So the fact that my machine has the friction disc/plate spinning as soon as the machine starts ...then moving the shift selector into a gear, and BOOM - off and running. Squeezing the drive lever tightens the drive belt ...but it's already tightened and engaged, so it really ain't doin a whole lot


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## Oneacer

Someone had to have messed with something in there at some point.


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## paulm12

jaytpilk said:


> I have two levers: The one that controls the idler pulley for the auger and the other lever that controls the "drive". Now, on mine, the ONLY thing that the driver lever does, (on my machine), is engage the idler pulley that tensions the drive belt. Nothing else. It does not, in the slightest, move the friction plate/disc. The only thing that moves the friction plate/disc is the shift selector.
> 
> So the fact that my machine has the friction disc/plate spinning as soon as the machine starts ...then moving the shift selector into a gear, and BOOM - off and running. Squeezing the drive lever tightens the drive belt ...but it's already tightened and engaged, so it really ain't doin a whole lot


ahh, I got it now, I missed your 1st video. Thanks. That is different than I am used to. I'll look at again a parts diagram and see if I come up with anything

tx


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## Darby

I was looking into an old Gilson, and it had "Unitrol". One lever swings the drive plate and moves the friction disc. Here is a link about that.
The Gilson SNOW BLOWER Shop Features Page. It appears the gilson drive belt is always tensioned. so this doesn't help  but its interesting.


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## jaytpilk

paulm12 said:


> ahh, I got it now, I missed your 1st video. Thanks. That is different than I am used to. I'll look at again a parts diagram and see if I come up with anything
> 
> tx


At this point, I'd give anything to find someone with the same model mower that I could either buy or just take off the belt cover and/or belly pan and see how theirs works!!!!


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## jaytpilk

I have one, and am running into what seems like an issue with the "drive" system ...and hoping someone with the same machine can tell me how Their machine works and either confirm that mine is operating correctly ...or not.

Please let me know if you have one and we'll go from there. Thank you,

Jay


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## dr bob

With absolutely no clue whether your 10-30E is close to the same as my now seven seasons old ST-227P, i'll speculate that the basic operation is similar.

On mine, there's a spring-tensioned idler on the drive belt, the belt that's closest to the engine and the rear of the machine. It maintains some pressure on the belt to keep it engaged and driving at all times. The driven pulley, the lower one that has the friction face on it, spins continuously while the engine is turning.

That driven pulley, the one with the friction face, rides on a short shaft and bearing that's supported on the forward side by a stub shaft and bearing, said stub shaft with threaded end passing through a swinging plate and secured by a nut on the forward face of that swinging plate. The pivot for that plate is a shaft that passes side to side in the drive box, shaft right close to the bottom of the drive case and just to the rear of where the box splits between the drive and auger pulleys.

The swinging plate has a slight spring preload forward, so that in its relaxed position the plate tends forward in the machine, towards the other pulley and the impellor. There's a cable that pulls on the top of that swinging plate, drawing it towards the rear of the machine when an operator handle is squeezed. That cable also has a spring in it, so that the maximum pull applied to that swinging plate is limited by the second spring. Force on the plate is clamp from the handle, minus the preload spring, and minus the tension limit spring in the cable.

When that swinging plate is drawn back by the cable it moves until a drive wheel contacts the friction face on the pulley. The drive wheel is able to move laterally in the case, with position set by the speed handle. It has that lateral movement available so that contact is available from just past pulley center to the right, then through pulley center and then further to the left but stopping just short of the edge of the friction face on the pulley. The drive wheel doesn't move at all front to back in the machine, so it contacts the friction face of the pulley only when the operator's drive handle is squeezed. Remember that the drive handle pulls the swinging plate with the friction pulley back towards that drive wheel to actually engage the drive wheel with the spinning face of the friction face on the pulley. Location of contact determines the direction and speed that the pulley will turn the drive wheel and only when the drive handle gets a squeeze from the operator.

Conclusions:

1) The friction-faced pulley spins with the engine, by design.
2) The drive is engaged only when the pulley is drawn back (towards the rear of the machine) by tension on the operator's drive handle cable. Any time the drive handle isn't being squeezed by the operator, the friction-faced pulley moves forward on the swinging plate, there's no contact between the drive wheel and the friction face, and the machine doesn't move.

Your situation:
3) The cable from the drive handle is not connected correctly, leaving tension on the cable that pulls the swinging plate and the drive pulley back into contact with the drive wheel.
4) The spring that preloads that swinging plate forward is not installed correctly, allowing the plate to swing towards the rear and the pulley to contact the drive wheel.
5) The replacement drive pulley you found is thicker that the original. the extra thickness causes the pulley friction face to meet the drive pulley even with the operator's drive handle in the relaxed position. 


You can easily check that the swinging plate is in its most-forward position through the bottom cover opening of the drive box. With engine off, push on the friction face of the pulley from the rear (use a hammer handle...) and see if it moves forward. If so, look hard at the that preload spring that should be holding that swing plate and pulley forward with the drive handle relaxed, and also at the cable connection, routing and adjustment.

You can check for contact between the pulley and the drive wheel with the operator's drive handle in the relaxed position. With that cover off, spark plug wire completely removed from the plug, and with all your fingers out of the drive box, have your trusted assistant slowly pull the starter cord. This should slowly rotate the pulley. With no contact, the drive wheel and the shaft it slides on laterally should not rotate at all. If that shaft (a hex shaped shaft on mine) does rotate, the drive pulley is touching the drive wheel causing it to turn. Maybe a better way is to suggests that the pulley is far enough to the rear (thickness of pulley, position of the swing plate, no return spring, or even adjustment of that drive cable) to contact and turn the drive wheel with the handle in the relaxed position.


----------



## dr bob

No need to start a second thread on the same subject. I know it can be frustrating, but for those of us following now and in the future, have the whole discussion corralled into one thread keeps things easier to follow.


----------



## jaytpilk

dr bob said:


> No need to start a second thread on the same subject. I know it can be frustrating, but for those of us following now and in the future, have the whole discussion corralled into one thread keeps things easier to follow.


Dont disagree dr bob, but, no one with the same machine has chimed in. And that other thread is pretty old now...


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## Yanmar Ronin

Someone please point me to the other thread and I'll take a look.


----------



## oneboltshort

dr.bob, here is his parts diagrams to compare to your ST227p
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment

jaytpilk, can you post a clear pic of the label under your handlebar, around 1:04 mark in the video (post #20)


----------



## jaytpilk

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Someone please point me to the other thread and I'll take a look.











Does anyone own a Husqvarna 10-30e snowblower? (Friction...


Hi all. I have an awesome (albeit older) Husqy 10-30E snowblower and after finally getting a 'new' friction wheel (a Yamaha part!!!) I thought I was all set to welcome Winter and snowblow with ease. However, as soon as I move the shifter from neutral and drop it into whichever gear I choose -...




www.snowblowerforum.com


----------



## jaytpilk

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Someone please point me to the other thread and I'll take a look.


Thanks Yanmar


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

jaytpilk said:


> Thanks Yanmar


No problem. 

Up to you I guess... I can merge the two to keep things a little simpler/easier to follow, if you'd like.


----------



## phendric

jaytpilk said:


> ...no one with the same machine has chimed in. And that other thread is pretty old now...


That other thread is the first Google result for "Husqvarna 10-30e drive system" but it's, what? 6 years old now? Are you seeing the same behavior now that you were then?


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Maybe it's my glasses but I'm not seeing a six year-old thread? 

It's a fine line... people are encouraged to search before they post, but then some feel that the old threads shouldn't be revived... so I dunno.


----------



## phendric

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Maybe it's my glasses but I'm not seeing a six year-old thread?











10-30e Drive issues


Hi all, I have a solid condition 10-30e (runs great, throws snow great, etc.), but the drive is very frustrating. I'm curious if anyone else has had the following: Put the machine in 'gear', 1st or 2nd forward and engage the drive lever. Nothing. Lift the rear of the machine off the...




www.snowblowerforum.com


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Thanks. 🍻 

Ya that's fairly old/stale... OP how about I merge your two new threads (both with replies) and we go from there?


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Okay... twin threads merged. Might take a tad sorting but imo it beats flipping between threads.

Steady on. 🍻


----------



## Oneacer

I wish jay lived near me, I would love to personally inspect the operations of that unit ...


----------



## jaytpilk

oneboltshort said:


> dr.bob, here is his parts diagrams to compare to your ST227p
> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
> 
> jaytpilk, can you post a clear pic of the label under your handlebar, around 1:04 mark in the video (post #20)


Here's the model/serial sticker from under handle bars:


----------



## jaytpilk

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Okay... twin threads merged. Might take a tad sorting but imo it beats flipping between threads.
> 
> Steady on. 🍻


Again, sorry for any confusion with 2 threads. Just seemed like no one really knew about my 'antique' Husqy and it's strange (potentially) operation - so I thought if I started a new one with the specific ask of "Does anyone have Husqy 1030..." as opposed to the OP with "friction plate spinning".

Thank you for all your help everyone.

Jay


----------



## dr bob

Hi Jay --

After some careful inspection of the parts diagram (thanks for sharing that oneboltshort in post 51...), it still appears that the pulley and the separate friction disk spin at engine speed at all times. In your machine, the drive engage-disengage is managed by moving that separate friction disk (labelled 531 00 26-48 in the parts diagram) into contact with the drive wheel (531 00 25-06). Moving the always-spinning friction disk is a drive link that connects to the forked arm (531 00 26-51 "shaft - traction engage") that engages the pins on that sliding trundle bearing (531 00 25-07). it looks like pulling on the drive link might actually disengage the drive, but it's hard to tell which direction the linkage pulls from the drive section diagram.

Diagnosis steps:

Make sure that the sliding trundle bearing actually slides on the shaft from the pulley. Make sure that the forks on the traction-engage arms are actually carrying the pins on that trundle bearing assembly, rather than pushing on them off to one side. With the linkage from the operator console disengaged, it should move freely in both directions. Then make sure that the linkage between the drive lever on the handles is connected correctly to the arm on that traction-engage shaft, so it can move the trundle bearing on the shaft from the always-spinning pulley. A thin film of grease on those sliding sections and in the forks for the trundle bearing pins will aid in their correct operation.

Key points remain: The belt spins the pulley whenever the engine is turning, regardless of drive engage/disengage. The separate friction disk always spins when the pulley is spinning, and therefore whenever the engine is turning. Actual drive engage/disengage is managed by sliding the friction disk on the spinning shaft from the pulley, so that it contacts the rubber-tired drive wheel when engaged and drive is desired.


----------



## jaytpilk

dr bob said:


> With absolutely no clue whether your 10-30E is close to the same as my now seven seasons old ST-227P, i'll speculate that the basic operation is similar.
> 
> On mine, there's a spring-tensioned idler on the drive belt, the belt that's closest to the engine and the rear of the machine. It maintains some pressure on the belt to keep it engaged and driving at all times. The driven pulley, the lower one that has the friction face on it, spins continuously while the engine is turning.
> 
> That driven pulley, the one with the friction face, rides on a short shaft and bearing that's supported on the forward side by a stub shaft and bearing, said stub shaft with threaded end passing through a swinging plate and secured by a nut on the forward face of that swinging plate. The pivot for that plate is a shaft that passes side to side in the drive box, shaft right close to the bottom of the drive case and just to the rear of where the box splits between the drive and auger pulleys.
> 
> The swinging plate has a slight spring preload forward, so that in its relaxed position the plate tends forward in the machine, towards the other pulley and the impellor. There's a cable that pulls on the top of that swinging plate, drawing it towards the rear of the machine when an operator handle is squeezed. That cable also has a spring in it, so that the maximum pull applied to that swinging plate is limited by the second spring. Force on the plate is clamp from the handle, minus the preload spring, and minus the tension limit spring in the cable.
> 
> When that swinging plate is drawn back by the cable it moves until a drive wheel contacts the friction face on the pulley. The drive wheel is able to move laterally in the case, with position set by the speed handle. It has that lateral movement available so that contact is available from just past pulley center to the right, then through pulley center and then further to the left but stopping just short of the edge of the friction face on the pulley. The drive wheel doesn't move at all front to back in the machine, so it contacts the friction face of the pulley only when the operator's drive handle is squeezed. Remember that the drive handle pulls the swinging plate with the friction pulley back towards that drive wheel to actually engage the drive wheel with the spinning face of the friction face on the pulley. Location of contact determines the direction and speed that the pulley will turn the drive wheel and only when the drive handle gets a squeeze from the operator.
> 
> Conclusions:
> 
> 1) The friction-faced pulley spins with the engine, by design.
> 2) The drive is engaged only when the pulley is drawn back (towards the rear of the machine) by tension on the operator's drive handle cable. Any time the drive handle isn't being squeezed by the operator, the friction-faced pulley moves forward on the swinging plate, there's no contact between the drive wheel and the friction face, and the machine doesn't move.
> 
> Your situation:
> 3) The cable from the drive handle is not connected correctly, leaving tension on the cable that pulls the swinging plate and the drive pulley back into contact with the drive wheel.
> 4) The spring that preloads that swinging plate forward is not installed correctly, allowing the plate to swing towards the rear and the pulley to contact the drive wheel.
> 5) The replacement drive pulley you found is thicker that the original. the extra thickness causes the pulley friction face to meet the drive pulley even with the operator's drive handle in the relaxed position.
> 
> 
> You can easily check that the swinging plate is in its most-forward position through the bottom cover opening of the drive box. With engine off, push on the friction face of the pulley from the rear (use a hammer handle...) and see if it moves forward. If so, look hard at the that preload spring that should be holding that swing plate and pulley forward with the drive handle relaxed, and also at the cable connection, routing and adjustment.
> 
> You can check for contact between the pulley and the drive wheel with the operator's drive handle in the relaxed position. With that cover off, spark plug wire completely removed from the plug, and with all your fingers out of the drive box, have your trusted assistant slowly pull the starter cord. This should slowly rotate the pulley. With no contact, the drive wheel and the shaft it slides on laterally should not rotate at all. If that shaft (a hex shaped shaft on mine) does rotate, the drive pulley is touching the drive wheel causing it to turn. Maybe a better way is to suggests that the pulley is far enough to the rear (thickness of pulley, position of the swing plate, no return spring, or even adjustment of that drive cable) to contact and turn the drive wheel with the handle in the relaxed position.


I wish I knew how to parse your post, and then comment in line... But, some quick thoughts (and thanks again for such a detailed post - I did get lost once or twice, but, overall I think I'm pickin' up what you're puttin' down!):

P2: When you mention the "spring-tensioned idler on the drive belt", since there's only 1 idler on my drive belt, then I can assume this is the one you're referring too. As far as I can tell, it does not have any spring-loaded tension on it because it is as far to the right (standing behind the machine as an operator would) and frankly up against the structural wall of the machine that houses the idlers. Regardless, the belt IS engaged and spinning at all times when the machine is running. When I actuate the drive lever, the idler does "pull in" to the left, into the drive belt, and does increase the tension on the belt. But again, it was spinning before the drive lever was engaged... Not sure if this is proper/correct. I thought it strange that the belt would be in constant tension and always spinning, ergo the friction plate/disc (what I believe you're calling the friction "face") is constantly spinning.

P3: I got lost here. "Short shaft, bearing"... "stub shaft with threaded end" ..."passing through a swing plate"..."The pivot for that plate is a shaft that passes side to side". Is the image I uploaded essentially the parts you're talking about?

P4: Since I kinda got lost in Paragraph 3, I'm equally lost in this Paragraph 4. But, if I understand, then - again - something is afoul on my machine in that, my friction plate/face does NOT move in the slightest when the drive lever ("operator handle"??) is squeezed. Maybe it should, but, it does not. And all the other comments about "Force on the plate is clamp from handle, minus the preload spring, minus....". Essentially lost.

P5: I do understand how the friction wheel, or as you call it, the "drive wheel", comes in contact with the friction plate/face to ...drive the machine. Depending on where the friction/drive wheel is positioned relative to the friction plate/face, determines speed and direction. That I understand. But again, my issue is that, the friction face/plate is IN NO WAY controlled by the drive handle/lever. The only thing that moves that friction face/plate up and down, or forward and back actually, is the 'shift selector' in the middle of the machine between the two handles.

So. Some very fundamental differences either where my machine simply operates differently than your ST-227P, or that mine has been "butchered", pieces missing/broken/connected incorrectly....

Sorry, feel like I'm right back at the beginning of just being lost and not understanding how this should work.


----------



## jaytpilk

dr bob said:


> Hi Jay --
> 
> After some careful inspection of the parts diagram (thanks for sharing that oneboltshort in post 51...), it still appears that the pulley and the separate friction disk spin at engine speed at all times. In your machine, the drive engage-disengage is managed by moving that separate friction disk (labelled 531 00 26-48 in the parts diagram) into contact with the drive wheel (531 00 25-06). Moving the always-spinning friction disk is a drive link that connects to the forked arm (531 00 26-51 "shaft - traction engage") that engages the pins on that sliding trundle bearing (531 00 25-07). it looks like pulling on the drive link might actually disengage the drive, but it's hard to tell which direction the linkage pulls from the drive section diagram.
> 
> Diagnosis steps:
> 
> Make sure that the sliding trundle bearing actually slides on the shaft from the pulley. Make sure that the forks on the traction-engage arms are actually carrying the pins on that trundle bearing assembly, rather than pushing on them off to one side. With the linkage from the operator console disengaged, it should move freely in both directions. Then make sure that the linkage between the drive lever on the handles is connected correctly to the arm on that traction-engage shaft, so it can move the trundle bearing on the shaft from the always-spinning pulley. A thin film of grease on those sliding sections and in the forks for the trundle bearing pins will aid in their correct operation.
> 
> Key points remain: The belt spins the pulley whenever the engine is turning, regardless of drive engage/disengage. The separate friction disk always spins when the pulley is spinning, and therefore whenever the engine is turning. Actual drive engage/disengage is managed by sliding the friction disk on the spinning shaft from the pulley, so that it contacts the rubber-tired drive wheel when engaged and drive is desired.


Almost wish I could call you, dr bob, as I just got done spending about 45 minutes crafting a reply to your wonderfully detailed post #47 .

I believe that I understand your post above, and can confirm that:

The trundle bearing moves (not sure if it "slides") on the shaft from the pulley. I know it "moves" because when I take the shift selector (is that what you call the "operator console"?), and move it from Neutral to, say, 2nd gear forward THAT WHEN I RELEASE THE SHIFT SELECTOR AND IT POPS DOWN INTO THE 2ND GEAR SLOT ==== THEN THE FRICTION PLATE/FACE moves toward the friction/drive wheel. Does it move easily? Yea. Does it "slide", effortlessly?? Ennnnh, dunno. But it certainly moves forward and back - into the friction/drive wheel and away from it. [Again, my whole problem -- I believe -- is that, as soon as the friction/drive wheel comes into contact with the friction plate/face, It's off to the races. It's like a whole-shot clutch, it's either ON or it's OFF, nothing in between.


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## Oneacer

The more I read, I am leaning towards a belt issue ..... You say that the drive is already immediately spinning even before you engage the drive lever ....this is not proper ....

You say that depressing the lever draws the belt more taught, but it was already spinning.

I am wondering if someone removed the belt guides that hold the belt, keeping it away from the crank pulley when the drive lever is not depressed .... Either that or wrong belt or idler way out of adjustment.


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## dr bob

jaytpilk said:


> Almost wish I could call you, dr bob, as I just got done spending about 45 minutes crafting a reply to your wonderfully detailed post #47 .
> 
> I believe that I understand your post above, and can confirm that:
> 
> The trundle bearing moves (not sure if it "slides") on the shaft from the pulley. I know it "moves" because when I take the shift selector (is that what you call the "operator console"?), and move it from Neutral to, say, 2nd gear forward THAT WHEN I RELEASE THE SHIFT SELECTOR AND IT POPS DOWN INTO THE 2ND GEAR SLOT ==== THEN THE FRICTION PLATE/FACE moves toward the friction/drive wheel. Does it move easily? Yea. Does it "slide", effortlessly?? Ennnnh, dunno. But it certainly moves forward and back - into the friction/drive wheel and away from it. [Again, my whole problem -- I believe -- is that, as soon as the friction/drive wheel comes into contact with the friction plate/face, It's off to the races. It's like a whole-shot clutch, it's either ON or it's OFF, nothing in between.



That's exactly the way it should work. There's no slipping "clutch" like one in the car. The drive wheel is supposed to be either engaged or disengaged with absolutely minimum slippage allowed. The drive inside the case needs pieces to move smoothly so that engage/disengage works without sticking. If you allow slippage, the thin rubber 'tire' on the drive wheel will quickly destroy itself.

Later machines (like my MY2015 ST227P I used for a description comparison) have a "safer" drive engagement system, one that requires full-time active driver participation in holding the handle down if you want the machine to move. It's a two-handed fail-safe or dead-man system, so that if you fall or otherwise let go of the drive lever, everything disengages and the machine sits running at a standstill. You can also "feather" the drive handle engagement and damage the rubber tire on the drive wheel, easy enough that there's a warning in the manual. The system you have is more elegant than the 'modern' cable system since you can effectively shift speeds on the fly, but today the machines have to be designed for the lowest-common-denominator operator population. Guessing too many owners went home empty-handed, or lawn junk and pets were eaten, and they decided to do something about it.


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## Oneacer

Indeed, if your machine has a drive lever to depress for making your machine move, then without a doubt, your gear selection should not engage drive unless you depress that lever.


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## dr bob

Oneacer said:


> Indeed, if your machine has a drive lever to depress for making your machine move, then without a doubt, your gear selection should not engage drive unless you depress that lever.


Take a look at the exploded parts diagram linked a few posts back. The drive is engaged or disengaged by a single operator speed selection lever. Move it to the speed you want, and let the lever drop in to "engage" the drive. Lift and it disengages, move it back to zero sped to keep it disengaged. The driven pulley and the friction disk rotate whenever the engine turns. There's no "disengage" by loosening the belt tension.


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## phendric

dr bob said:


> The drive is engaged or disengaged by a single operator speed selection lever. Move it to the speed you want, and let the lever drop in to "engage" the drive. Lift and it disengages, move it back to zero sped to keep it disengaged.


And there's your answer - the behavior @jaytpilk shows in the video in post #20 (watch from 0:40 to 0:50) is apparently the intended behavior.

If that's the case, then why are there two hand levers, one on each handle of the machine?


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## Oneacer

They are put there to disengage the auger and the drive when you fall ..... I put in what I felt it might be .... Nothing more to add without a on hands inspection.


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## jaytpilk

I feel like a ping-pong ball  . Now I have to try and figure out "Who's right". Dr Bob, you sure do seem to know a ton and eloquently detailed it here. I'd love to agree with you that my machine is working as intended. But, I can't help but wonder - if in fact the it's the Shift Selector that both selects the speed/direction AND also engages the drive, then as Oneacer points out: then why have the drive lever?

I worry that I can't see the forest for the trees anymore on this, as I've been around and around and around on possible scenarios. I may need a Budweiser and come back to this tomorrow.

But I will say: This is why I would LOVE to find someone who owns the same machine, and ask them how theirs operates. THAT'S why I started that 2nd thread, to try and find someone - as they wouldn't just dive into a "Friction wheel always spinning thread".


----------



## dr bob

Do you have a drive lever that moves the friction disk? Or does the shift lever linkage move the friction disk? Whatever the friction disk trunnion connect to, to move it back away from the drive wheel,... is what moves the disk to engage and disengage the drive. I'm limited to seeing what's in the parts blowup, and speculating some about how the friction disk is moved.

Pull the cover off, and tell us which control actually moves the friction disk, the one that's on the other end of the shaft that includes the drive pulley on the other end.

Pictures of the insides of the box and the external linkages might help a lot. As others share, this would be a snap if we had hands and eyes on the machine.


----------



## phendric

dr bob said:


> Pictures of the insides of the box and the external linkages might help a lot. As others share, this would be a snap if we had hands and eyes on the machine.


Watch this video:


----------



## jaytpilk

phendric said:


> Watch this video:


Thanks phendric, this video should answer many of dr bob's questions. Only comment, after I made that video, is I INCORRECTLY stated that the "fork" the moves the friction plate/disc up & down DOES WORK, and DOES move the friction plate ...up & down === but the only thing that moves it is the shift selector and not the drive lever.

Thanks,

Jay


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## dr bob

So,... What does the drive lever connect to in the drive box? There's mixed info in the videos.


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## jaytpilk

dr bob said:


> So,... What does the drive lever connect to in the drive box? There's mixed info in the videos.


To the best of my ability, the cable goes into a spring right next to the idler pulley for the drive belt; (the larger idler - on top - below). When I squeeze the drive lever, the ONLY thing that happens is the idler pulley moves into the drive belt, (adds more tension to it). But, since it's already spinning, not sure what squeezing the drive lever ultimately does to the operation of the machine. Squeezing the drive lever to NOT change the position of the friction plate/disc. The only thing that does that is the Shift Selector.


----------



## dr bob

On mine(newer and different, but...), there's a spring on the arm that tensions the impellor drive, in a method similar to you describe for your drive belt. That spring retracts the arm completely back against the frame when it's supposed to be disengaged. In your picture it looks like yours uses the same system for both the drive and the auger belts, with the two "engage" cables each connected to one of the arms with an idler roller on it.

With the cable from the drive handle disconnected from its arm, that arm should retract via that spring, and completely remove tension from the belt. The engine pulley should spin in the belt, belt doesn't move, pulley doesn't move. And way different than I was thinking based on the drive box parts blow-up diagram.

Here's a look down at the setup on my auger drive. The spring in the top of this view is retracting the idler pulley. One end on the frame, the other connected to the arm for the idler wheel to pull it back. The smaller diameter spring, the one in the middle of the picture, is at the end of the cable. Pull on the cable, and it overcomes the retraction spring, moves the arm towards the belt, causing it to be grabbed by the engine pulley.










Steps:
-- make sure that retraction spring is installed on the arm for the drive belt.
-- make sure that with no tension on the control cable, that arm and its idler wheel are fully retracted. If not, disconnect the cable from the arm and see if it retracts more.
-- If so, something is puling too much on the cable and the arm.​-- If it doesn't retract more with the cable disconnected, look to see what else is keeping that arm from retracting.​​That arm and the idler wheel need to be back far enough to let the engine pulley spin in the belt when there's no tension and the drive handle is in the relaxed position. If the arm and idler won't go back enough for that with no cable tension, the belt is either misrouted (pretty hard to do really...), or the belt is too short. Is the belt on there now the same one that was installed on it last time it worked right? Early in the thread the belt length was discussed, you mentioned in the first post that the idler is back against the frame. But I wasn't clear on whether it had worked right before you swapped in the new friction disk pieces. If in fact the arm is all the way back against the frame .and. the belt is still too tight .and. it's the same belt that's worked correctly before, look at belt routing. If it's a different belt now, carefully compare the length with the original. I've done stoopid stuff before, like mixing up two almost-the-same-length original belts while reassembling. Possible that could have happened?


----------



## jaytpilk

dr bob said:


> On mine(newer and different, but...), there's a spring on the arm that tensions the impellor drive, in a method similar to you describe for your drive belt. That spring retracts the arm completely back against the frame when it's supposed to be disengaged. In your picture it looks like yours uses the same system for both the drive and the auger belts, with the two "engage" cables each connected to one of the arms with an idler roller on it.
> 
> With the cable from the drive handle disconnected from its arm, that arm should retract via that spring, and completely remove tension from the belt. The engine pulley should spin in the belt, belt doesn't move, pulley doesn't move. And way different than I was thinking based on the drive box parts blow-up diagram.
> 
> Here's a look down at the setup on my auger drive. The spring in the top of this view is retracting the idler pulley. One end on the frame, the other connected to the arm for the idler wheel to pull it back. The smaller diameter spring, the one in the middle of the picture, is at the end of the cable. Pull on the cable, and it overcomes the retraction spring, moves the arm towards the belt, causing it to be grabbed by the engine pulley.
> 
> Steps:
> -- make sure that retraction spring is installed on the arm for the drive belt.
> -- make sure that with no tension on the control cable, that arm and its idler wheel are fully retracted. If not, disconnect the cable from the arm and see if it retracts more.
> -- If so, something is puling too much on the cable and the arm.​-- If it doesn't retract more with the cable disconnected, look to see what else is keeping that arm from retracting.​​That arm and the idler wheel need to be back far enough to let the engine pulley spin in the belt when there's no tension and the drive handle is in the relaxed position. If the arm and idler won't go back enough for that with no cable tension, the belt is either misrouted (pretty hard to do really...), or the belt is too short. Is the belt on there now the same one that was installed on it last time it worked right? Early in the thread the belt length was discussed, you mentioned in the first post that the idler is back against the frame. But I wasn't clear on whether it had worked right before you swapped in the new friction disk pieces. If in fact the arm is all the way back against the frame .and. the belt is still too tight .and. it's the same belt that's worked correctly before, look at belt routing. If it's a different belt now, carefully compare the length with the original. I've done stoopid stuff before, like mixing up two almost-the-same-length original belts while reassembling. Possible that could have happened?


Thanks Dr. Bob. (I didn't see a picture in your post?). But, ultimately, your description/words is helpful enough. My idler pulley IS as far away from the drive belt as it can be; up against the frame. (Frankly, it looks like it rubs against the frame, but, that's the least of my problems). I have a BRAND NEW drive belt on there, with the exact OEM part number that Husqy says goes to this machine. It is correctly/properly routed.

But, as mentioned, as soon as I start the snowblower engine, with no tension on the drive lever and the drive auger as far out of the way - away from the drive belt - as possible, THE DRIVE BELT IS SPINNING as if the idler pulley were actuated as hard as possible into the belt.

Is sure seems to me that the belt is too short, or too wide, and is grabbing the drive sheave all on it's own with no outside influence from the operator via the drive lever. I believe this is my fundamental problem.


----------



## dr bob

I had to change the filename extension on the picture to place it in the post, so it was there a few minutes after I placed the post. The host software likes picture.jpg, but won't accept picture.JPG for some reason. It's a Linux thing... 

Anyway, the belt is misrouted or too short or too wide as you state. Is it the same belt as last ran on it correctly? Possible the two belts were swapped accidentally when you put it back together? Those seem to be the only things left to blame at this point. 

Temps in the thirties all day here with rain. It's just this far from snowing. Ground is still a little warm but not by much. It's a few weeks early for that, but we really need the water so praying for snow here. None for you until we sort the drive belt mess though. :fingerwag:


----------



## groomerz

Disregard


----------



## CarlB

jaytpilk said:


> To the best of my ability, the cable goes into a spring right next to the idler pulley for the drive belt; (the larger idler - on top - below). When I squeeze the drive lever, the ONLY thing that happens is the idler pulley moves into the drive belt, (adds more tension to it). But, since it's already spinning, not sure what squeezing the drive lever ultimately does to the operation of the machine. Squeezing the drive lever to NOT change the position of the friction plate/disc. The only thing that does that is the Shift Selector.
> View attachment 182167


if pressing the handle just adds more pressure to an already spinning belt the belt is either too small or adjusted improperly. the belt should not spin until the lever is depressed.


----------



## Oneacer

^^^ Just what Carl said , and what I said prior... the purpose of the drive lever is to engage the drive ... if the drive belt is already engaged, something is not right.

You might want to again look at that belt and its route.

Wow, I just saw 82 posts and 5 pages on this and not resolved ... weird.

I guarantee you if I had that machine, I would have had it figured out right quick. Snowblowers are actually pretty straight forward in there designs.


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## groomerz

What does this cable do. 
It doesn’t appear to be the traction cable










Belt guide doesn’t appear to be near traction belt

Take more photos of machine Of this area 
Someone might spot the smoking gun

In earlier post of parts breakdown that was posted not positive if correct model
But showed split pulley with 2 spacers between sheeves
Is this the case










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## jaytpilk

Oneacer said:


> ^^^ Just what Carl said , and what I said prior... the purpose of the drive lever is to engage the drive ... if the drive belt is already engaged, something is not right.
> 
> You might want to again look at that belt and its route.
> 
> Wow, I just saw 82 posts and 5 pages on this and not resolved ... weird.
> 
> I guarantee you if I had that machine, I would have had it figured out right quick. Snowblowers are actually pretty straight forward in there designs.


Well; now we're talkin' Smack!!! . I've fixed hundreds of snowblowers, chainsaws, weed whackers, lawn mowers - this ain't my first rodeo by any stretch ...hence my shared frustration (if that's what we can call it) that this post is still going. 

This is a brand new belt with the OEM part number. It operates EXACTLY as the last belt. I don't recall a previous belt. 

Maybe this is the million dollar question but: How do I "adjust" it? Groomerz points out something I brought up before re "spacers" between the sheaves. I think that may be my issue as I don't believe there are spaces on my setup....

GETTING CLOSER. Thanks all.


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## jaytpilk

I am looking at the schematic for my model which shows NO spacers. I'm thinking I give "spacers" a try...


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## groomerz

I see in that That parts list you showed with no spacers 

There are belt guides that I don’t see in your pics 

Belt guide cause belt to stand up in pulley and not grab belt on top of pulley 

More pics 


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## Oneacer

Yeah, I already mentioned belt guides? Everything under the sun was mentioned in this 5 page 90 post thread. 

He is obviously missing something crucial ... That is why I asked if he could have another person with mechanical ability look it over in person, maybe a relative or friend? As he is certainly not able to locate the problem.


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## oneboltshort

Oneacer said:


> Yeah, I already mentioned belt guides? Everything under the sun was mentioned in this 5 page 90 post thread.
> 
> He is obviously missing something crucial ... That is why I asked if he could have another person with mechanical ability look it over in person, maybe a relative or friend? As he is certainly not able to locate the problem.


Although not a competition, people are familiar with your "I already mentioned every solution." Several people are struggling with the basic difference this machine is not like the others, it is a Yamaha in orange clothing with a Tec engine.. I think jaytpilk is fine to roam his own garage without family, friend or forum appointed supervision too. 
The title of the post is "Does anyone own a Husqvarna 10-30e snowblower?" There are little to no posts, blurbs, or manuals for this machine. I personally sent husqvarna a question about this machines manuals and how none of it's model/product numbers have hits on their website. They linked me to a 3rd party online pop up window serviceI think jaytpilk may have better luck in the Yamaha section asking about the operation of older YS624, 928's or VALID links to a YS service manual.. These older models have much more engaged ownership than Husq and frankly are more tolerant than some here that want the same answer to every poster question.

Onto other thoughts regarding the drive idler arm/pulley/system. Jaytpilk, back to talking about the idler wheel itself having a slot adjustment in the arm. Is it possible that pulley was replaced with an oversized one? I ask because as we both noted it appeared to have more slot room for adjustment, but the pulley was already touching the frame.
Also, when looking up in the nether regions of the belly, do you see a brake tab or post on the idler arm itself? I guess it could be hidden up so high the belt is on the outside, maybe. I found a pic from a Yamaha one, but the arm looks different than the Husq IPL diagram arm.


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## Oneacer

.. exactly .... I dont think anything was left out in these comments


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## jaytpilk

Hey onebolt, not sure if someone swapped in a larger idler pulley. But, (to all), I can say that I went to Lowes today and bought a couple washers, "spacers", and put one on ...and it absolutely appears to have done the trick, in that the sheave halves are further apart and the belt is MUCH looser. It got dark out early, and cold, and I need to put the auger sheave with key back on, tighten everything up, but, it will be interesting to see. I am optimistic this could be my solution.

Thanks all.


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## Oneacer

Belt not sitting in the pulley properly will sure do it, ..... a wrong belt size of width or pitch will also give a bad outcome.

I never seen a split pulley on a blower application in all my years.

Glad you finally got it figured it out.


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## jaytpilk

Oneacer said:


> Belt not sitting in the pulley properly will sure do it, ..... a wrong belt size of width or pitch will also give a bad outcome.
> 
> I never seen a split pulley on a blower application in all my years.
> 
> Glad you finally got it figured it out.


Well, I HOPE I've figured it out. I definitely widened the gap of the sheaves and my belt now sits a LOT lower into it - thus giving it some slack. Once I tighten it all down, I'll know for sure when I start it up. I'll report back. Weird how one person shared a shcematic that showed this machine having 1 or 2 spacers. The schematic I found showed NO spacers. Certainly, as onebolt pointed out: Not a lot of documentation on this machine.

Oh well. Fingers crossed.


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## Oneacer

Yeah, not to worry .... The more you are into the workings of a machine, the more you come away with a better understanding of its operations .... Over time, you acquire a certain skill set for not only that particular unit, but it carries forward into other unit understanding as well.

Sounds like you'll be fine .... 👍👍👌👌


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## groomerz

You learn something new everyday. Some people learn from books, teachers or experiences 

Remember that v belts contact pulleys on the v sides only. Inside or bottom of belt shouldn’t touch pulley. 


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## oneboltshort

Oneacer said:


> I never seen a split pulley on a blower application in all my years.


Cub Cadet 524


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## Oneacer

Yeah, I am aware that there are split pulleys out there, as I have come across them in other applications .... Just never came across one on a snowblower in all my years ...


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## oneboltshort

You have now


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## Oneacer

Yup ... Being a brand new machine, I never had a reason to dismantle it, thus never seen one on a snowblower ...... Maybe in a few years, with my limited machine run time on my machines, due to my abundant fleet, I will come across one .... 

I only dismantle a machine when I have to do a repair or a complete restore. ...


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## Oneacer

I am so looking forward to putting that one through its paces ..... C'mon snow .... 

Oh yeah, and my restored JD 826, and my newer Ariens 724 with new engine single shaft install .


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## jaytpilk

I believe the spacer(s) did the trick!!!!!!! Thank you everyone.

I did wrestle for about an hour or so installing one washer(couldn't find THE spacer from Husqy - no longer available), which was juuuuuuuuuust a bit too small/thin, and while the belt didn't sping nearly as much when the machine started up (no drive lever engaged), it did still spin. Putting in gear, it did not Jump into motion, but, it did 'buck' once or twice which worried me that I'd wear flat spots in the new friction wheel. So I took sheaves off, added another washer, put it all back together: Too much. Then I tried a thicker washer, too much. After cajoiling, I got it so belt doesn't spin when machine starts. Drives with lever only.

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!

Bring on that snow!

Jay


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## dr bob

Congrats! Dogged determination and persistence has paid off.


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## JJG723

What an adventure this job has been. 🍻


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## dr bob

A shared learning experience. Nobody ever thought you could crawl out of a whale that swallowed you... until somebody did it.


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## Oneacer

Someone crawled out of a whale?


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## Ziggy65

Yeah, the Grumpy Old Troll, it happened at last years snow blower convention, after a few too many wobbly pops.


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