# Shaking when i activate the auger



## brokensnowblower (Dec 10, 2012)

Hi,

First real snow fall here in Canada. I started up my old Craftsman snowblower. Unfortunately, I hit a rock! The engine stalled so I removed the rock that was stuck between the housing and the auger. 

Started it up again and as soon as I engaged the auger lever, I saw a few sparks shooting from the chute for a second ! Shut it down immediately again to take a look, found nothing. I started it up again and as soon as I engaged the auger lever, the entire snowblower vibrated and shaked! The auger and impeller spins but it is unusable since the entire machine is completely vibrating.

Engine turned off, I tried spinning the auger manually : it doesn't spin. The impeller spins freely but the entire auger assembly also moves from side to side while turning. There's no physical contact with the auger/impeller and the housing so I don't know why it was making sparks at first.

I put it back in the garage but I was wondering, what could be wrong with my blower? Bent impeller blades? Broken gearbox? 

Thanks!!! I hate my shovel!


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

I would Check your worm gear housing...Sounds like you did what I did last year.
Was blowing the doggie path for my sisters dog but unbenounced to me my Pops
had built a little burning fire with a circle of rocks(brick size) in february to burn some
of his spring burning pile(wanted to get a head start). Well it snowed a few days after and what do ya know....BANGGGGGGG!! I whaled my Auger and little did I know with my 5 day old newly acquired snowblower that the shear bolts where frozen with spray paint(no play at all) and snap goes the worm gear housing cause the worm gear housing goes snap!!! Thanks Pop. I got a new housing to the tune of $91.00 and am hoping the worm gear(another $75 at least.. is intact). Would wait to see what the others have to say...luckily I did not have any rocks stuck inside. If you saw sparks coming out chute...maybe you bent the impeller or impeller shaft??? if possible??


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I would say something is definitely bent, or you still have a piece of rock stock somewhere.

The way most snowblowers are built, you can turn the impeller, but the augers are not turnable. Maybe you got lucky and one of the side bearings popped out or something.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Trouble*

First off, welcome to the forum and sorry about your issues.

Without a model number, it's hard to nail anything down but I have a possible. Model numbers are important because a number of companies made blowers for Sears over the years and they aren't the same.

There were some older ones along with newer ones that didn't have a full width auger shaft. The shaft only went part way down the rakes and the outer end was supported by a bearing with a sleeve that fit in the end of the rakes. Jam something in there and it could spread the outside of the housing enough that the sleeve slipped out of the end of the rake, usually part way. If that's the case, you need to unbolt the bearing, work the collar back into the end of the rake and then bolt it back together. You may have bent the rake also so there may be some straightening there too. The reason you'd see sparks in the impeller housing is if the rake is out of the collar, it's running off center and likely would be hitting the side of the housing.

The blowers I'm talking about are similar to this one in design:


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## brokensnowblower (Dec 10, 2012)

Hi,

Thank you for the replies. I'm currently at work but I'd take a look at the snowblower when I'll be back home.

Here's a picture I've found on the internet. Same exact model, same engine too.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Picture*

That sure looks to me like it has the same type end bearing and sleeve in it like the one I posted. It should be very apparent if the end of the auger rake is off the sleeve.


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## brokensnowblower (Dec 10, 2012)

Yep, when I looked, both ends were inside the sleeves.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Misc*

Well if the rakes are in the ends of the bearing sleeves, then about the only suggestion I can make is: pull the sparkplug (so no may it can start by accident), pull the belt cover and auger belt and have someone turn the auger pulley while you watch inside the auger housing. Basically you're looking for anything that isn't running true. I suppose it's possible you took in more than one rock and potentially bent the impeller or impeller shaft in addition to jamming the auger rake.


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## brokensnowblower (Dec 10, 2012)

Can one or two bent impeller fins make the blower shake likes alot to the point of being unusable?


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

brokensnowblower said:


> Can one or two bent impeller fins make the blower shake likes alot to the point of being unusable?


Vibrate - likely, shake the whole thing - not too likely unless they're hitting the housing. Didn't you say you saw sparks? Even with a bent tip on a vane, if the rest of the impeller is ok then it should still be in balance.

For it to shake violently, it would likely have to be something turning fast: that likely is the impeller. It's possible it's bent front-to-back, one or more of the vanes are bent or the impeller shaft is bent. One other thought, though not too likely - impeller bearing or bushing is toast and the pulley end of the impeller is wobbling around. I didn't mention the auger gearcase because I'm assuming that's still ok. Just thought of one thing more, any chance an impeller vane was broken off? That would definitely cause vibration, probably violent.

Start with the impeller and impeller shaft and look for damage there. For shake, that's where it's likely originating.


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## brokensnowblower (Dec 10, 2012)

thanks for the answer. From what I could see yesterday, all the vanes were still there. Can't wait to be back from work to take a proper look at it.

I'll keep you updated!


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## brokensnowblower (Dec 10, 2012)

Ok, i saw it spinning with the engine running. Impeller is straight, fins are straight, shaft is straight but the gearbox seems to be wobbling, causing the augers to move from side to side...


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## brokensnowblower (Dec 10, 2012)

final verdict: bent impeller. thanks everyone.


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

Are you able to make it an easy fix or ???


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## brokensnowblower (Dec 10, 2012)

One of the tree sides of the impeller is bent, causing the shaft to not run true. The fins are alright, though. 









Anyone had any luck straighening an impeller without removing it from the blower? 


Good news is that I found the exact same model for sale. The guy wants 150 bucks for it. He is selling it because of a carb problem. If the impeller spins true and there's not apparent problem with the auger/impeller assembly, I'm going to get it and decide what to do after. 

Worst case scenario, I'll repair both and have two machines!


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

That sounds like a plan. Let us know if you get it, and if you get that auger straightened out.


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## Flannelman (Sep 24, 2011)

I had to straighten the impeller on one last year. That design isn't very hard to take apart. I'd tear it down and get something braced under the bent vane heat it with a propane torch alittle and pound it flat. Chances are good it will come out fine.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Shouldn't the shear pin have done its job? 
I hope you get it all repaired well. Real shame to have something like this happen. 
Joe


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Misc*



Flannelman said:


> I had to straighten the impeller on one last year. That design isn't very hard to take apart. I'd tear it down and get something braced under the bent vane heat it with a propane torch alittle and pound it flat. Chances are good it will come out fine.


You'll probably want something a little hotter than a propane torch to heat it up. Something like a MAPP gas or acetylene torch that can concentrate more heat in a narrower area would likely work easier. 
I've used both propane and mapp gas torches to heat up rakes to help get rusted ones off the auger shaft and mapp is a whole lot quicker due to being able to heat it quicker.

I'd take it apart to heat it rather than risk damaging the auger gear case by hammering on parts etc while trying to straighten it out.

Just my 2 cents.


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

Just my lame 2 cents on shear pins.....Everyone check your manuals and see about correct setup. I do believe they should be tight to the point of having little play..a little movement back and forth....but again different brands might have different setups but mine were frozen with spray paint from previous owner...I did not know that which I learned the hard way... Check your manuals on shear pin setup... if no mention...call a dealer on your brand...and ask proper setup...a little loose or tight??? Will save your machine!!!


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Shear Bolts*



Simplicity Solid 22 said:


> Just my lame 2 cents on shear pins.....Everyone check your manuals and see about correct setup. I do believe they should be tight to the point of having little play..a little movement back and forth....but again different brands might have different setups but mine were frozen with spray paint from previous owner...I did not know that which I learned the hard way... Check your manuals on shear pin setup... if no mention...call a dealer on your brand...and ask proper setup...a little loose or tight??? Will save your machine!!!


I agree (IMO) that the shear bolts should not be tighted totally tight mainly because it might bend the rakes tight to the auger shaft defeating the purpose of the shear bolts. I've also bought a blower where the former owner replaced them with grade 8 bolts, that was a tragedy waiting to happen. Luckily I noticed them. Another is if the rakes are rusted tight to the auger shaft, that basically makes it a one piece unit and the shear bolts won't do a thing for you.
The shear bolts that are grooved for the auger, make sure you get the right ones and align them so the grooves are positioned so the shaft can shear them off if needed. Those without grooves I assume are softer so they'll shear no matter how they're installed.


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## Oldphil (Dec 7, 2010)

I have been running cheap threaded rod in my auger drive machine since the early 90's, I buy a 36" hunk at the HW store for about 3 bucks. I use self locking nuts so they float in the hole, they do shear a little easier than shear bolts but that suite me just fine. I do four fairly big driveways mine and three for neighbors, my 826 does the bulk but the auger does the final manicure of all teh walkways.


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