# Ariens 724/Tecumseh engine questions



## Tfilla (Oct 22, 2017)

Hi all, I just bought my first snowblower and need some help. I learned a lot from this site when I was doing my research so I'm sure someone will have answers for my questions. I'll try to give as much detail as I can so I apologize if the post gets long. 

I think (and hope) I got a pretty good deal on an Ariens 724, model #932046. I date it to 2005 or 2006. It has a Tecumseh 7 hp engine, model OH195SA-72560G. No rust anywhere and very little wear inside the auger housing. 

I was told it had been in storage for a couple years and didn't start so I didn't get to test it first. I got it home, cleaned out the carb, changed oil, and got it to start. Here's where the questions begin.

First, the engine doesn't run at a steady RPM, it revs up and down. When I hold the butterfly valve on the carb it runs steady. I kind of bent up the linkage spring when I was putting it back together so I have a new one on order. Is that probably the cause of the issue or could it be something else? 

Second, when I started it I noticed it wanted to creep backwards. I didn't think much of it at first but when I put it in gear and tried to go, it went backwards. It didn't start going forward until the 3rd or 4th forward gear, and it was slower than I expected. It wasn't at full throttle so that probably explains the speed, but it shouldn't have been going in reverse. 

Finally, as it was running I noticed a squealing noise. It was intermittent and not constant. My first thought was a belt but then I realized I didn't have anything engaged. What could cause that? 

I haven't tested the auger or impeller yet as I want to focus on getting the engine running smoothly first.

Anyone have any ideas?


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

It sounds like the friction disk is way out of adjustment, The disk may be set too close to the wheel also so that is causing the creeping, And the going reverse when in a forward gear leads to it being out of wack on the adjustments, It has the wheel on the wrong side of the friction disc, I'll see in I can find a how to video on how to adjust it and getting into the gearbox to do some maintenance would probably be a good idea also.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Agree with Dauntae, Position of Friction Wheel Needs to be adjusted. Tilt the machine forward, Drop the chassis pan, and look at the position of the friction wheel. The Adjustment is the threads on the Control rod which shorten or lengthen it so it operates properly. Or the Control rod could be bent, which changed the alignment. Squealing sounds like a belt issue of some kind. Engine surging is usually due to a dirty carb. The adjustable carbs are more Forgiving.


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## Tfilla (Oct 22, 2017)

Thanks for the help. I removed the cover to check the friction disc and that looks to be in good shape. And there is plenty of clearance when not engaged. As I was playing with the control rod to figure out how everything worked I found that a wingnut had loosened, causing a bend. Stupid me, I had noticed this right away but assumed that's how it was supposed to be. I straightened it out and tightened the nuts, which appears to have popped everything back into place. I'll test it tomorrow to be sure. 

I'll also see if I can narrow down the squealing sound. My first thought was a belt issue as well. 

Thanks again for the advice!


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

could possibly be the belt guides that stop it from popping of the pulley (the two pieces of metal sticking out on both sides of the pulley) Well they may be set too close keeping the belt in contact with the pulley.


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## Tfilla (Oct 22, 2017)

Update: I got around to tinkering with it again. Sprayed all the jets with carb cleaner and at full throttle with the choke off it ran a lot better. I watched the carb and there was an occasional small jump on the butterfly valve from the governor arm and a constant popping sound from the exhaust...not loud like a backfire but definitely distinguishable. Is that normal or is there something else that needs to be done?

Then when I slightly throttled down it went to more of an idle but the surging started back up again. I read that that's normal with newer carbs but should it be that bad? 

Going back to full throttle reduces the surging and going down to half throttle kills it. Ideally half throttle would be idle and all the way down would kill it. Is that just a function of the throttle spring?

I really do appreciate all the help.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

Tfilla said:


> Update: I got around to tinkering with it again. Sprayed all the jets with carb cleaner and at full throttle with the choke off it ran a lot better. I watched the carb and there was an occasional small jump on the butterfly valve from the governor arm and a constant popping sound from the exhaust...not loud like a backfire but definitely distinguishable. Is that normal or is there something else that needs to be done?
> 
> Then when I slightly throttled down it went to more of an idle but the surging started back up again. I read that that's normal with newer carbs but should it be that bad?
> 
> ...


The carb idle circuit needs cleaned better. YouTube cleaning Tecumseh carb. 65 ford and donnyboy have good videos on it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

There's a plug on the side of the carburetor it's called a Welch plug. You need to drill a hole in it and pry it out. There are holes behind that plug that need to be cleaned that controls the rough idle. I did a long post on carburetor cleaning, search under my name.


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