# 5.5 hp model# 247.883550- Valve/Timing Question



## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Hello,

So I tried putting a new carb on this model and still it has not started. I checked the spark on the engine block and saw a bright blue spark. The carb pulls gas up through the emulsion tube just fine when I prime it. I also have tried priming the chamber.

I looked down into the chamber and pulled the engine over, the valves seem to open when they should and shut when they should. 

When I try to start it with the electric start, All I get is some sputtering and a little backfire out the exhaust, but it never fully starts.

Does anyone know what the valve clearance should be? What should I check next?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

I think you may want to try by elimination process on this one.
From your post you have spark and you gave it some form of gas with a backfiring and sputter. 
Your next move would be to verify if you have a partially flywheel sheared key. And next might be the valves, but without the engine model# if flat head it would be .004 int. .008 exh or if ohv .004 on both. This is according to a Tecumseh engine specs book. I know Grunt and or Shryp would have exact specs from their database.
Good Luck


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

OK,

I just did a compression test, at 4-5 pulls and I get 60 psi. With the electric starter I get the same at 4-6 revolutions. I also tried putting a little oil into the chamber and the readings were the same after about 2 minutes of letting it sit. 

Not sure if this is good enough, or what I should check next?


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Hello,

What would a partially sheared flywheel key look like? The engine is LH195SP-67514, at least that is what is in the manual.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

jenkinsm2 said:


> Hello,
> 
> What would a partially sheared flywheel key look like? The engine is LH195SP-67514, at least that is what is in the manual.


 Your numbers confirms it's a flat head, as for a sheared key when they are in its original form it is a half moon shape key in a slot.
A sheared one would look like if you would have teared it a bit. Sorry but this is the best I could come with.


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## Ariens1976 (Jan 1, 2013)

The top key is sheared... the bottom one is new


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

> About a month ago, someone took apart the crankcase to replace the crankcase seal and the seal on the auger side around the crankshaft. Perhaps they put the flywheel on wrong? I really do not know how to check for correct compression of for proper ignition timing.
> 
> 
> > Was this someone a small engine mechanic? And did he run the engine after his altercations? I would have had his take first if you didn't start the engine since his work last performed.


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Ok,

So I removed the flywheel and I think I accidently broke the flywheel key. I used a piece of wood and a rubber mallet, hit the flywheel from behind 3 times and it came off. But, the flywheel key looked really worn down. Not sure if it was put in wrong and then got worn or what. Buying a new key.

Is there a certain way the flywheel needs to go back on? I want to make sure it lines up right.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

jenkinsm2 said:


> Ok,
> 
> So I removed the flywheel and I think I accidently broke the flywheel key. I used a piece of wood and a rubber mallet, hit the flywheel from behind 3 times and it came off. But, the flywheel key looked really worn down. Not sure if it was put in wrong and then got worn or what. Buying a new key.
> 
> Is there a certain way the flywheel needs to go back on? I want to make sure it lines up right.


 accidents happen! That's how we learn. 

Once you set the key in the crankshaft, align the flywheel's keyway with key and slide it on...pretty straightforward.

Get a strap wrench for the outer flywheel rim and torque the flywheel nut to specified value....no more, no less. If it's under-torqued, you risk shearing the flywheel key. Too much torque and you risk snapping the crank shaft.


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Thank you,

So if I put the key into the crankshaft and flywheel right, then I do not need to align the flywheel with anything else on the engine or anything like that?

I used a soft piece of wood to stop the flywheel from moving so I could loosen the nut, can I do the same to tighten it, or is this bad? I do not have a big enough strap wrench, but I will buy one if need be.

Last, how do I know the "specified value", should I call tecumseh, and how would I know its right. Is it a certain number of turns?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

jenkinsm2 said:


> Is there a certain way the flywheel needs to go back on? I want to make sure it lines up right.


After installing the new key in the crank shaft slot, just line up the notch in the flywheel and slide it on. Do not put any oil or grease on the crankshaft and make "SURE" you torque the flywheel nut down to 46 ft\lbs after installing or you" WILL" shear the key again. Key part number is 610961.

The valve clearances for your motor are .004 to .008 thousandths for each valve. Your engine numbers LH195SP use the same specifications as an HSSK-50 motor listed in the service manual.

As Normex stated, was the engine reassembled by a knowledgeable mechanic? It is quite possible that they did not align the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft which WILL throw the timing off. The compression reading of 60 psi is reasonable and should allow the engine to run if everything else is working normally.


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Thank you sir,

So I will buy a torque wrench that can tell me when it hits that exact number. 46ft/lbs

Did I mess up by using a wood block and rubber mallet to remove the flywheel? Can I use that wood block to hold the flywheel when I put the nut back on? I just want to get this right, thank you. Nothing appears damaged or even scratched (except the flywheel key).


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

A lot of people use a block of wood and a hammer to remove flywheels. As long as your careful it is fine.

With the key lined up between the crankshaft and the flywheel there is nothing else to line up unless you removed the ignition module.

You can use a block of wood to hold the flywheel, but if you are holding it against one of the fan blade fins you risk breaking it off. Another way to hold the flywheel is by shoving a piece of rope down the spark plug hole.

You can get torque wrenches for around $10 at Harbor Freight or you can barrow one from an auto parts store. They will ask for something like a $100 deposit via cash or credit card, but will give you a full refund if you return it within 90 days.


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Good news, and some bad news,

I got the engine to run, and it sounds good overall (it was the flywheel key). But now I have some smoke coming out from where the pulleys are. In 2 days I will remove the cover, start the engine back up and look at the pulleys. Please note that the seal near the pulleys was replaced and the engine has not been started in 2.5 years since I got it going today. Is there anything else I should check?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Could be something with the belts or could be some oil leaked out if you tipped it and it is burning off.


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