# Meet my new friend. Initial impressions, and on going review to come.



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

meet my new platinum 24.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Merry Christmas to you .......


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Oneacer said:


> Merry Christmas to you .......


Looks nice… you’ll like the poly skids!


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Before I begin I’ll start with the following disclaimer:

im just some dude on the internet. I’m not an expert, nor do I profess to be. Everything in this thread is my opinion. Nothing is being preached as absolute. Everything is based on my experience, my ability to repair things, my willingness to repair things, value that I place on products, manufacturers, and dealer support.

what’s important to me may or may not be important to you, make your purchase decisions on your personal value systems. Perhaps this thread will help you make a decision. Perhaps not.

your mileage may vary.

id like to thank smokie1, and town. Both of these guys were instrumental in my decision. Here we go.

i,decided,to replace the 1981 old faithful. It now resides at the mother in laws, in storage.

due to space limitations I was limited to a 24” model. I wanted the “best” most powerful machine in that size.

yamaha, Honda and Ariens had the machines,I needed.

I had a bad Yamaha dealer experience years ago. I did find a second dealer who refused to order me a Yamaha, and instead wanted me to buy a cub cadet. No thanks. Yamaha was out. Zero dealer confidence. If you won’t sell me a machine, will you get me parts?? 

I looked at Honda. Very nice, well built machines. They are NOT overpriced. They are fully loaded, feature rich machines. If Ariens produced a 24” track drive hydrostatic electric start it would be comparatively priced.

at the end of the day I didn’t feel I needed the more expensive feature set. My wife did not like the cable drive.

I selected the Ariens. It was the size I needed, and everything I needed, nothing I didn’t. Think muscle car. Big engine, keep it simple. No electric chutes, fidgets, and gadgets. Friction drive, a proven Battle tested design.

I chose carb over EFI. Partly because the EFI 24 platinum now includes electric chute, but also I wanted to keep it simple. I can clean, or swap out a carb. If needed, I can re kit the carb.

most of the likely needed repairs I can do myself in a timely matter. I have the confidence I could “fix” EFI (it’s basically parts swapping) but I simply didn’t feel the “benefits” of EFI plus the additional price premium were worth it.

did I mention the auto turn is an absolute dream? I LOVE IT (just drove it up and down the driveway getting weird looks). Time will tell how auto turn performs in real world.

there’s nothing like the smell of a new small engine. It’s been 40 years. Lol.

it purrs like a kitten (haven’t had time to rpm check it yet).

first order of business is to remove the wheels and grease/anti seize. (I might lube the short right axle)

im confident in my local Ariens,dealer and I love the company. I had a recent visit to the Ariens meuseum and talked to some employees in the training center. The company pride shows.

now the bad. (Gotta be balanced right?)

1. (Not really bad) the drive and auger are opposite to my old machine. I was auging when I wanted to drive, and vice versa, lol. I’ll get used to it.
2. The gas cap. A few have complained. I understand. It’s not the easiest to remove and put back on.

I’ve figured out where to lone it up to instal it, and you need to “tilt” it as you put it in. Takes a bit to get used to. They could improve it.

that’s all for now. We are expecting snow this weekend! I can’t wait.

I’ll keep this updated as I go along.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> Looks nice… you’ll like the poly skids!


yup! I did forget to mention that my machine came with poly skids. They are not an after purchase. I like em a lot.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Oneacer said:


> Merry Christmas to you .......


absolutely! I’m extremely happy.

thinking about your method of stabil/seafoam, and periodic running ALL year round. I think that’s the key. (I’m a trufuel guy but willing to try new ways)


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Not trying to be picky but should the scraper bar be that close to the surface?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Cstanis said:


> Not trying to be picky but should the scraper bar be that close to the surface?


It’s fine. Likely the angle of the picture. There’s a small gap, appropriate for my driveway surface.

_edit_ it,actually was a tad low. I stuck some paint stir sticks under the scraper and adjusted the shoes. Bingo!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I think you will find that to work well ...... I don't like letting any equipment sit for great lengths of time. 

your going to love the poly skids, and make sure to set the height for your driveway .... For pavement, I use apprx. 3/16 inch yardstick under cutting edge. ..... If gravel, certainly way higher.

very good looking unit ....


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Oneacer said:


> I think you will find that to work well ...... I don't like letting any equipment sit for great lengths of time.
> 
> your going to love the poly skids, and make sure to set the height for your driveway .... For pavement, I use apprx. 3/16 inch yardstick under cutting edge. ..... If gravel, certainly way higher.
> 
> very good looking unit ....


point of interest (not arguing) but the lct engine manual that was included says for storage exceeding 30 days to drain fuel and run 2-3 oz of ethanol,free fuel and run until stall.

I may try your method all season, and for (my) piece of mind, drain the stabilized pump fuel.

I do think running things all year is a good idea. Regardless of fuel practices.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

A long time coming with your very thorough search. You should be very happy with this machine.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

You will settle into a routine that works well for you ... All my gas originates in 5-gallon cans, with the added stabilizers in them when I fill them ... I use a battery-operated pump to fill all my equipment from the 5-gallon cans. I leave fuel in all my equipment, and never drain a fuel tank or run dry the crab bowl. I will use the fuel shut off if it has one and if I remember ..  ... I never had any carb issues doing it this way.. Even running my generator periodically throughout the year, if it has not been used for any length of time, and it is approaching the 2-year mark, I will drain that tank and put it in equipment I am using at the time and put in fresh stabilized fuel.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Oneacer said:


> You will settle into a routine that works well for you ... All my gas originates in 5-gallon cans, with the added stabilizers in them when I fill them ... I use a battery-operated pump to fill all my equipment from the 5-gallon cans. I leave fuel in all my equipment, and never drain a fuel tank or run dry the crab bowl. I will use the fuel shut off if it has one and if I remember ..  ... I never had any carb issues doing it this way.. Even running my generator periodically throughout the year, if it has not been used for any length of time, and it is approaching the 2-year mark, I will drain that tank and put it in equipment I am using at the time and put in fresh stabilized fuel.


any recommendation for a battery pump? I tried buying the one from harbour,frieght. Always sold out. Amazon has lots, but not sure what’s good?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

JJG723 said:


> A long time coming with your very thorough search. You should be very happy with this machine.


very stoked and anxiously awaiting the first snowfall.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

Oneacer said:


> You will settle into a routine that works well for you ... All my gas originates in 5-gallon cans, with the added stabilizers in them when I fill them ... I use a battery-operated pump to fill all my equipment from the 5-gallon cans. I leave fuel in all my equipment, and never drain a fuel tank or run dry the crab bowl. I will use the fuel shut off if it has one and if I remember ..  ... I never had any carb issues doing it this way.. Even running my generator periodically throughout the year, if it has not been used for any length of time, and it is approaching the 2-year mark, I will drain that tank and put it in equipment I am using at the time and put in fresh stabilized fuel.


Same here, fuel stabilizer and closure of fuel valve at equipment shutoff( letting it stall) has worked for me for a couple decades now ;-). Just picked up a Plat 24 sho myself, serial # 6600(already). However, I'm in the Boston woods and that old hag La Nina is forecast to preclude my snow blowing fun this year. I usually make wise investments but I had to have one. Yet it was 70 degrees today, can't even start it to hear it roar. The silver lining, I am comfortably installing several accessories and customizations before its maiden voyage.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I used premium 5% ethanol fuel using seafoam only as a stabilizer. Didn’t work even running the carb dry. I thought the premium had 0 ethanol. And seafoam isn’t a good stabilizer it’s more of a cleaner even though they say it stabilizes.

oneacer would you agree? Is that why you use both stabil and seafoam? To stabilize and clean?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Zilla said:


> Same here, fuel stabilizer and closure of fuel valve at equipment shutoff( letting it stall) has worked for me for a couple decades now ;-). Just picked up a Plat 24 sho myself, serial # 6600(already). However, I'm in the Boston woods and that old hag La Nina is forecast to preclude my snow blowing fun this year. I usually make wise investments but I had to have one. Yet it was 70 degrees today, can't even start it to hear it roar. The silver lining, I am comfortably installing several accessories and customizations before its maiden voyage.


id fire it up and listen to the roar.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

I, like most, will baby my new toy. Engine is made for cold weather so my convoluted logic makes me think running in warm weather will actually cause unnecessary harm to the little guy. I know it's not quite a hemi, but I'd like to hear how it compares to my weaker 824 series of blowers. Probably not much sound difference from the older 824's, however this Plat 24 "should" create a fountain of snow cascading across my lawn at distances that make me giggle ;-). Perhaps the exhaust will have a pleasant growl afterall. 
Side note, anyone ever get silly and add a cherry bomb muffler to their snowblower tailpipe? I had a trans am back in the 80's with a couple, I know how well they can amplify an exhaust sound. Several tickets later I had enough of that tho. Problem is, it increases overall width of the blower. I got the 24" so I could get around an outside storage garage without running into and over a vegetable bed. I need to run the exhaust upwards not out and away, hmm?


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Nice machine! I use ethanol free gasoline with Stabil 360.


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

Really nice purchase! Funny you mention the gas cap as a downside. I had not heard that one about Ariens before. When I got my Honda the stainless steel gas cap really stood out as the cherry on top. As I screw it down it feels like there is a hydraulic mechanism on the last turn that just sucks it into place. Every time I fuel up I think "this is quality". I have the same cap on my Honda-powered power washer and it gives me the same feeling. On the flip-side, my Honda powered GCV-160 mower gas cap is cheap plastic that does not function well nor exude quality. 

It is like the maker of a high-end car that uses flimsy bits on the temperature control, one of the few items the user may have regular interaction with and it reminds them "this isn't so high-end". Why do they do that? The gas cap is a key touch point that deserves attention by the manufacturer, in my opinion.

Anyway, enjoy your heirloom blower for decades to come!


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Is there a prescribed engine break in procedure in the owners manual and if so, what does it entail? 

I've been using Valvoline 10w30 racing oil non syn in my HF units for break in because it has a very high zinc content. Then changing to 5w30 full syn.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

"Oneacer would you agree? Is that why you use both Stabil and Seafoam? To stabilize and clean?"

That is exactly why ... and since I already am using Stabil, I only use 2oz of SeaFoam in each 5-gallon gas can as well.


"convoluted logic makes me think running in warm weather will actually cause unnecessary harm"

These are small engines and suffer no ill effects running them at 60 degrees or 20 degrees ... I start all my equipment periodically throughout the year and have been doing that all my life. I would not recommend running any engine in warm weather for any great length of time without an air filter though ... summer use requires an air filter for all the dust, etc., in warmer use. You don't find much dust, etc. around in the wintertime.


"I need to run the exhaust upwards not out and away, hmm?"

Funny you mention that I put a straight exhaust and a small rain cap on an older Bolens,  it looks and sounds great ... reminds me of when I operated dozers.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Nan_wpg said:


> any recommendation for a battery pump? I tried buying the one from harbour,frieght. Always sold out. Amazon has lots, but not sure what’s good?


Nan, this what I use, I'm well north of 70 and can't hold a 5 gallon can steady enough not to spill..... Also available here in Canada from "BRS Battery" north of Sudbury.

My SIL who is early 40s, also love his for filling his tank by the dock on his 21 ' ski boat.....
Expensive yes, but these are approved for gas etc., unlike many of the $20 ones that are not......my 3 cents worth.....

BTW, at my age if it works for me, I'm happy........









TERA PUMP TRFA01 4-AA Battery Powered Fuel Transfer Pump w/ Flexible Intake hose and No-spill Auto-Stop Nozzle, attachable to gas cans and more, Electric Fuel Pumps - Amazon Canada


TERA PUMP TRFA01 4-AA Battery Powered Fuel Transfer Pump w/ Flexible Intake hose and No-spill Auto-Stop Nozzle, attachable to gas cans and more in Electric Fuel Pumps.



www.amazon.ca


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

This is the one I have had for years and works great filling my equipment ... the cheapie from Harbor Freight ... less than 10.00 with coupon back then, don't know what it goes for now, with all the inflation and price gouging going on. I am sure Amazon has it as well.

As conteder mentioned, if you're going to be filling a ski boat at a dock, or some other hefty operation, you probably want something with more substance and quality. But for filling my small equipment from a 5-gallon gas can in my shop, or pumping out a small engine gas tank, this unit works perfect for me.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Tseg said:


> Really nice purchase! Funny you mention the gas cap as a downside. I had not heard that one about Ariens before. When I got my Honda the stainless steel gas cap really stood out as the cherry on top. As I screw it down it feels like there is a hydraulic mechanism on the last turn that just sucks it into place. Every time I fuel up I think "this is quality". I have the same cap on my Honda-powered power washer and it gives me the same feeling. On the flip-side, my Honda powered GCV-160 mower gas cap is cheap plastic that does not function well nor exude quality.
> 
> It is like the maker of a high-end car that uses flimsy bits on the temperature control, one of the few items the user may have regular interaction with and it reminds them "this isn't so high-end". Why do they do that? The gas cap is a key touch point that deserves attention by the manufacturer, in my opinion.
> 
> Anyway, enjoy your heirloom blower for decades to come!


totally understand what you said and I actually agree. Maybe I should have given it more thought, or worded differently.

im used to the typical plastic “spin it on quickly and snug it up” type fuel cap.

this one is more stout, and “different”. Once I played around with it it’s good. There’s a rubber gasket that’s lubed with what looks like 2 stroke oil. I’ll just keep it lubed, and be mindful on removal, etc.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

deezlfan said:


> Is there a prescribed engine break in procedure in the owners manual and if so, what does it entail?
> 
> I've been using Valvoline 10w30 racing oil non syn in my HF units for break in because it has a very high zinc content. Then changing to 5w30 full syn.


as per engine manual (not owners manual):

there’s no specific break in procedure. (Kinda)

change oil after the first month, then every 6 months.

or change oil every 40 hours (heavy use) 

it confuses me a bit as I fall under the lighter use, so let’s say I bring her home, don’t use it at all. I’m not changing the oil in a month. It Should have specified “after the first 5 hours, or 10 hours, etc” change the oil because everyone is different.

im just going to dump it after a month if it gets some use. Then annually (unless I hit 40 hours. )

I don’t see needing to change every 6 months. In the spring I drain fuel,chain oil, lube, etc so it’s ready for next winter. It sits for 6 months with clean oil. I see no need to change it.

the manual does not mention any specific break in oil. It says to use automotive detergent oil, and synthetic is acceptable. 5/30 recommended.

for what it’s worth I’m going to use Amsoil small engine oil. My 1981 machine always used 5/30 whatever was on sale.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

contender said:


> Nan, this what I use, I'm well north of 70 and can't hold a 5 gallon can steady enough not to spill..... Also available here in Canada from "BRS Battery" north of Sudbury.
> 
> My SIL who is early 40s, also love his for filling his tank by the dock on his 21 ' ski boat.....
> Expensive yes, but these are approved for gas etc., unlike many of the $20 ones that are not......my 3 cents worth.....
> ...


thanks for the link. Currently I use trufuel, but the cans suck so I pour it into a “no spill” jerry can 1-1/4 gallon. Nice and light. I’m looking for a pump to drain fuel tanks (I have the primer bulb siphon thing. Don’t like it )

of course my new Ariens has a carb bowl drain. This is how I will drain the fuel tank. (Still want a pump for the mower tank)


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Oneacer said:


> "Oneacer would you agree? Is that why you use both Stabil and Seafoam? To stabilize and clean?"
> 
> That is exactly why ... and since I already am using Stabil, I only use 2oz of SeaFoam in each 5-gallon gas can as well.
> 
> ...


is your fuel ethanol free? This is key (in my opinion)

as of Jan 2022 my province requires all pump gas to have ethanol.

currently I use tru fuel (ethanol free and stabilizer in it). It’s pricey, but honestly in my snow blower, for the amount of use it gets, Its not expensive. Set it and forget it.

but for my mower I’d like to try your method of stabil/seafoam, and run the mower in the winter for a few minutes every now and then, or just use your fuel mix for the season and then an oz or 2 of trufuel for storage 

the lct engine manual specifically says for storage exceeding 30 days, drain tank of fuel and store with 0 ethanol.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Oneacer said:


> This is the one I have had for years and works great filling my equipment ... the cheapie from Harbor Freight ... less than 10.00 with coupon back then, don't know what it goes for now, with all the inflation and price gouging going on. I am sure Amazon has it as well.
> 
> As conteder mentioned, if you're going to be filling a ski boat at a dock, or some other hefty operation, you probably want something with more substance and quality. But for filling my small equipment from a 5-gallon gas can in my shop, or pumping out a small engine gas tank, this unit works perfect for me.
> 
> ...


I’ll check Amazon. I’m in Canada, so no harbour freight. These must be popular. We did a road trip through North Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. I went into several harbour freight stores and they were all sold out.

princess auto (similar kinda store in Canada) also sold out of this style pump.

maybe Covid supply issues ?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Maybe, ... many of my neighbors use them also ... they were tired of spilling gas everywhere.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I use the reg gas in my area, which is 10% ethanol ... once its with additives, I have no issues.

A rider in my area only sits at the most for four months ... don't even bother in the dead of winter to start that if I don't get to it. One thing you want to do is make sure any equipment with a straight 30W Dino oil in it is never started in the dead of winter ... you will chance engine damage, .. make sure even your summer equipment is using a full synthetic multi-viscosity as well ... my mowers use Full Synthetic 10W30, or even 5W30 Full synthetic if I am out of the 10W30.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Oneacer said:


> I use the reg gas in my area, which is 10% ethanol ... once its with additives, I have no issues.
> 
> A rider in my area only sits at the most for four months ... don't even bother in the dead of winter to start that if I don't get to it. One thing you want to do is make sure any equipment with a straight 30W Dino oil in it is never started in the dead of winter ... you will chance engine damage, .. make sure even your summer equipment is using a full synthetic multi-viscosity as well ... my mowers use Full Synthetic 10W30, or even 5W30 Full synthetic if I am out of the 10W30.


how would 30w damage in winter? It’s a 30 weight oil. 5/30 means it’s a 5 weight that mimics 30 weight when warmed up.

unless I understand incorrectly a 30w oils would just be harder to start as it’s thicker.

I was using 30 in the mower. I,am switching everything over to Amsoil small engine synthetic or at least the mower will get 5/30,synthetic because that’s what my truck uses.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

A straight 30W dino oil in winter will labor the engine to start, as well as so thick in winter that it will take a while to thin out and warm up and ring/cylinder damage can easily occur.

Thats why snowblowers tell you to use a Full Synthetic 5W30 viscosity.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> how would 30w damage in winter? It’s a 30 weight oil. 5/30 means it’s a 5 weight that mimics 30 weight when warmed up.
> 
> unless I understand incorrectly a 30w oils would just be harder to start as it’s thicker.


*The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. Because the viscosity of oil changes with temperature, multigrade oils were developed to provide protection across a range of temperatures. This is why you would see something like this on the label: SAE 5W-30.*
​*In a 5W-30 for example, the number before the W describes the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures. The lower the number, the thinner the oil and the better the oil’s cold temperature/ cold start performance. The number after the W describes how thick the oil is at the engine’s normal operating temperature.*​​*Multigrade oils such as SAE 5W-30 and 10W-40 are widely used because, under all but extremely hot or cold conditions, they are thin enough to flow at low temperatures and thick enough to perform satisfactorily at high temperatures. In other words, the choice of viscosity would be different depending on whether you are living in Finland (0W/ 5W-30) or Nigeria (5W/10W/15W40 or even 20W50).*​​*Please note that engine requirements may vary so consult your handbook for the correct viscosity grade.*​


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

We just recently had a new gas station (Royal Farms) open about a year ago that sells ethanol-free 90 octane fuel and now I use that exclusively in everything. So far no issues from the fuel. In the off season for OPE I completely drain the entire fuel system - tank, fuel lines, carburetor bowl. For snow blowers especially it is not a given around here that I will run it every year. When I lived north of Washington, D.C. one year I bought my first snow blower and then I didn't see a single snowflake for four years. We're still close enough to get that kind of weather. So for me stabilizing fuel is not good enough - I may not use it for two or three years and of course no matter what I put in it, it will go bad in that time. So I drain all of it and that has worked for me without fail so I'm sticking with it.

That's how the manufacturer ships it, and the machine may sit on a shelf for a decade - fill it with fuel and it runs just fine. I see no way to improve on that.

BTW, Royal Farms also sell really good fried chicken. Kinda pricey, but good.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

Tseg said:


> Really nice purchase! Funny you mention the gas cap as a downside. I had not heard that one about Ariens before. When I got my Honda the stainless steel gas cap really stood out as the cherry on top. As I screw it down it feels like there is a hydraulic mechanism on the last turn that just sucks it into place. Every time I fuel up I think "this is quality". I have the same cap on my Honda-powered power washer and it gives me the same feeling. On the flip-side, my Honda powered GCV-160 mower gas cap is cheap plastic that does not function well nor exude quality.
> 
> It is like the maker of a high-end car that uses flimsy bits on the temperature control, one of the few items the user may have regular interaction with and it reminds them "this isn't so high-end". Why do they do that? The gas cap is a key touch point that deserves attention by the manufacturer, in my opinion.
> 
> Anyway, enjoy your heirloom blower for decades to come!


Boy you really like your gas caps. I'm not sure what the issue is, I can't relate with the aforementioned on my plat 24. Rightly tighty lefty loosy just like a gas cap should around these parts of the world. Disclaimer- I have not attempted to use it in the cold with gloves


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Does anyone check rpm’s and post on the web? Of course, why not?

















3600 “running” speed, and 2350 “idle”

3600 is ok, idle is a little high according to service manual. Not gonna adjust it. Maybe. Not spending much time at idle.

is it normal to smile when you fire up a new thrower?

neighbors must think I’m nuts. Up and down a driveway. No snow.

the top driving speed on this thing is too fast. Even the second reverse is too much, and the 1st reverse is faster than my old machine.

still adjusting to the backwards drive/auger. 40 years of muscle memory.

did I mention the auto turn? Worth the price of admission.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

I completely agree. I saw many reviews with complaints about reverse speeds. I was at peace to find the new Plat 24 has way above average reverse speeds. Maybe it's all that power wrapped into a smaller package, hmmm why don't more folks see that niche Ariens was trying to hit? Raw power baby!


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> Does anyone check rpm’s and post on the web? Of course, why not?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> *The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. Because the viscosity of oil changes with temperature, multigrade oils were developed to provide protection across a range of temperatures. This is why you would see something like this on the label: SAE 5W-30.*
> ​*In a 5W-30 for example, the number before the W describes the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures. The lower the number, the thinner the oil and the better the oil’s cold temperature/ cold start performance. The number after the W describes how thick the oil is at the engine’s normal operating temperature.*​​*Multigrade oils such as SAE 5W-30 and 10W-40 are widely used because, under all but extremely hot or cold conditions, they are thin enough to flow at low temperatures and thick enough to perform satisfactorily at high temperatures. In other words, the choice of viscosity would be different depending on whether you are living in Finland (0W/ 5W-30) or Nigeria (5W/10W/15W40 or even 20W50).*​​*Please note that engine requirements may vary so consult your handbook for the correct viscosity grade.*​


why arent the “5”’s the same? I.e 5/30 flows to -35 but 5/40 flows to only -30? 5/40, and 10/40 go to the same high temp?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Zilla said:


> I completely agree. I saw many reviews with complaints about reverse speeds. I was at peace to find the new Plat 24 has way above average reverse speeds. Maybe it's all that power wrapped into a smaller package, hmmm why don't more folks see that niche Ariens was trying to hit? Raw power baby!


my old machine only had 1 reverse and it was painfully slow.


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

Nan_wpg said:


> why arent the “5”’s the same? I.e 5/30 flows to -35 but 5/40 flows to only -30? 5/40, and 10/40 go to the same high temp?


The 5W viscosity is measured at 40C/105F. Heavier weight oils become more viscous sooner as they get cooler. So at +40C all 5W’s have the same viscosity. It is the way way the specification test was designed. I’m just the messenger.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Thanks weatherman. Didn’t get the snow we though was coming. Lol.

more random thoughts as I bought 2 jugs of Aspen fuel $$$. The LCT manual says for longer than 30 day storage to drain > fill,with 0 ethanol fuel > run for 5 min > store.

I read this as “ethanol is ok for 30 days”. _Im paranoid because of past issues_ but I’m going to try oneacer’s method of seafoam/stabil and use that during snow season with the provision that after 30 days I will drain and refill / run for 5.

easy enough to do. For spring storage I’ll drain, fill with Aspen/trufuel > run for 5 and call it a day.

looking at my carb bowl, you don’t get a complete drain with the drain plug. You’d have to loosen the bowl nut to be anal about it.

id say with the fuel shut off it’s a sealed system. The bowl not really.

I’ll still run dry for storage. Don’t want to compress float spring.


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## Plan - B (May 3, 2021)

When, I bought my Arines about 12 years ago, Every fall, I had trouble getting it started. I, called Ariens. told the rep what what happening. This is what he said to me. At the end of the snow season, run true fuel in the engine. Just out enough in the tank to start it blower. run it untill it stalls. do that about three times. Drain the carb. Then squirt some WD 40 into the card, replace the screw. Store the blower. I, have been doing that for about 10 years now. Haveing no problems in the fall, getting the blower started. This is what, I have been useing for years. Star Tron's Enzyme Fuel Treatment and Sea foam. Star Tron, say's 1 cap to 1/2 gal of gas. 1 cap is 1/2 teaspoon


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Weird that Ariens would tell you to do all that. Just running trufuel would be enough. I’ll run / drain the carb for storage on this new machine.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

So I wasn’t sure what the dealer puts in his fuel. I drained and refilled with Oneacer’s formula of fresh fuel (2-1/2 gallon can) and 1oz seafoam, 1 oz stabil. Ran that for about 5 minutes.

while she was empty I took the wheels off and anti seized. 









some people say anti seize, some,say grease. Ariens manual says grease but their blog says grease or anti seize. Donny boy says anti seize so anti seize it is.

of particular,note,the left side key would not come out. It was wedged in pretty good. A light “persuasion” with s crew driver didn’t work. I just anti seized over it. Didn’t want to mess around for snow season and snap something, or have the key fling out and go missing Like a 10mm.

I figured if the axle has to come out the stuck key won’t interfere. I’ll have a look in the spring. Maybe I’ll pry it out and put it on the grinder


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Another point of interest the oil level on the dipstick has 2 “dots”. Bottom dot I’m guess is low limit, but the top dot doesn’t represent full. I double checked the level by looking into the side oil caps.

at least I know now where “full” is on the dipstick.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

nice machine there Nan.
I hope it gives you great service. 


I like a little anti seize on the axel..not too much...

are you talking abou the "key" in the axel that locates the wheel after assembly? if its in that groove..your good..... I have had to hammer out keys.....most times on crankshafts.....a good punch and light weight hammer will do the trick most of the time. The key in the axel is just to located the wheel and drive it.....the outside clips hold wheel on.

2-3 pumps of grease on the fittings....a couple times a year---not tooo much! and its fine. also grease the auger...2 or 4 zirc fittings...depending on model...


also...dont shift the unit on the fly....come to a complete stop when changing speed.

also...check your auger cable. I found mine was too tight from the assembler......and popped the cable last year on my 28 SHO. plenty of vids on that.

enjoy! its a nice one you have.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Yup that's the key. Im not too worried about it but I didn't want to try and pop it out. were expecting snow and with my luck it'd go flying and disappear.

Ive never shifted on the fly. Auger cable seems ok.

Question for you.... would you/should I bother to take apart the short right side axle and grease it? On the newer platinums the axle is held together by itself (and an "e clip") and then the wheels hold the entire axle assembly within the transmission box.

Not much of it is talked about it here, and only one video in the entire you tubes on it.

If the right side were ever to seize it would disable the auto turn. There is no mention of it in any Ariens documents (manual and service manual)

Seems like the weather man is being cruel to me. Promising snow and then Mother Nature decides otherwise.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Nan_wpg said:


> Yup that's the key. Im not too worried about it but I didn't want to try and pop it out. were expecting snow and with my luck it'd go flying and disappear.
> 
> Ive never shifted on the fly. Auger cable seems ok.
> 
> ...



take a pic of that.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

harry398 said:


> take a pic of that.


unsure of what your getting at....

like on my pro 28....there is an axel shaft that slides out --then you can remove diff.

its the axel is inside....it can wait.....for when your going inside for serive.(like a friction wheel) or cleaning up the friction plate after the year or when a problem. 

most stuff is getting grease via fittings......but you can do a better job when going inside.

Id concentrate on the basics...dont be afraid to spray some white grease or light oils.......i see your up in canada..you guys get hammered up there....I see "towns" machines....they get rusted from all the exposure to snow-ice-water---salt-- etc


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

the orange is the “long left side axle”. It goes into , and then through the differential. The short right side axle slides over top of the long axle and is held in place with the “e” clip.

what I’m referring to is removing the short right axle (there’s a brass bushing inside on each end) and greasing or oiling it.

if the short right axles seizes to the long left axle (orange) the auto turn will not work (and it will be hard to remove entire axle assembly.)

older styles of the platinum used a roll pin inside the gear box.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

The right side axle can be removed once the right wheel is off (you have to open the gear box to reattach into the diff)


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

if your going back into the belly pan...and feel its needed.....go ahead.

I think that can wait for another time when servicing.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

It’s a brand new machine and hasn’t seen snow yet. Not even sure if it’s needed. Can brass bushings seize to,steel axle? They may be those self lubricating bushings (thus no mention of maintenance)


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Nan_wpg said:


> It’s a brand new machine and hasn’t seen snow yet. Not even sure if it’s needed. Can brass bushings seize to,steel axle? They may be those self lubricating bushings (thus no mention of maintenance)


no such thing as self lubing.

with all that water inside...corrosion occurs.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> Can brass bushings


Not brass... Bronze. *Brass is composed of copper and zinc, whereas bronze is made up of copper and tin*


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

After I put the wheels back on I did squirt some oil at the axle tips. Hoping some capillary action will wick the oil inside.

but for sure I will take it all part in the spring


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> Not brass... Bronze. *Brass is composed of copper and zinc, whereas bronze is made up of copper and tin*


can bronze seize to steel?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Apparently bronze has less galvanic corrosion. Possibly why Ariens doesn’t list this as a maintenance item. When I took the wheels off there was some type of grease on the axles, near the gear box housing


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

harry398 said:


> no such thing as self lubing.
> 
> with all that water inside...corrosion occurs.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

How do you know if your bushing are self lubricating? I’m thinking Ariens would tell me to lube the right inside axle if I needed to.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

Nan_wpg said:


> How do you know if your bushing are self lubricating? I’m thinking Ariens would tell me to lube the right inside axle if I needed to.


Not sure if you recall but I got the same model last month. After taking it apart, I can confirm that Ariens had greased what needed to be greased and believe it or not had oiled what needed to be oiled. As you know after reading the manual, it calls for grease for some but oil for other parts. 
If the rest of your unit was oiled and greased properly to that point, I would not doubt everything got what it needed. That being said, and I fall into this category, every metal part should have some sort of protection so I do not believe you would cause harm if you chose to lubricate your bushings. Of mention, I got mine in a box left in my driveway so no direct dealer inspection prior to my own. It is nice to get what you expect


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

A good friend is a light airplane mechanic. His advice on the topic is "if it's metal and moves, oil or grease it. Doesn't much matter which." You don't need to slather it on, just a few drops or dabs as the case may be.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> Looks nice… you’ll like the poly skids!


so just wondering how you are finding the “up and down” lever?? I’ve experienced my first no no of this blower. Maybe it’s just my machine.

the pivot mechanism (not sure the correct name) is “wonky”. It doesn’t stay on plane/level/square. There is some play and when adjusting up or down I have to apply a rotational counter clockwise “twist” when shifting so that everything stays “straight”.

it seems to me anyway that this mechanism should pivot on a metal rod.

anyway I wanted to tighten this nut under the hood to prevent the lever from slipping out. It’s a real pain to get to one of the nuts.

do you have any issue of your chute “popping” out of its slot? Do you understand what I’m trying to write? Lol.


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

Nan_wpg said:


> so just wondering how you are finding the “up and down” lever?? I’ve experienced my first no no of this blower. Maybe it’s just my machine.
> 
> the pivot mechanism (not sure the correct name) is “wonky”. It doesn’t stay on plane/level/square. There is some play and when adjusting up or down I have to apply a rotational counter clockwise “twist” when shifting so that everything stays “straight”.
> 
> ...


So the joystick enclosure is not tight to the dashboard? If so, I’ve never heard of such a thing. Hopefully you figure out how to resolve.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

There’s an adjustment screw to tighten. But the screw is also the problem, in that it creates a “moment arm” and allows for “wonky ness “.

I actually prefer the manual chute adjustment of my old machine. It was adjusted by hand, like,the older compacts were.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> so just wondering how you are finding the “up and down” lever?? I’ve experienced my first no no of this blower. Maybe it’s just my machine.
> 
> the pivot mechanism (not sure the correct name) is “wonky”. It doesn’t stay on plane/level/square. There is some play and when adjusting up or down I have to apply a rotational counter clockwise “twist” when shifting so that everything stays “straight”.
> 
> ...


Are you talking about the spring loading of the deflector control arm on the dash? The spring is adjusted by the nut so that the arm just stays in the selected groove. If too slack the lever jumps out of the slot and raises the deflector. I have never tightened the spring so much that it caused a problem. Easy adjustment to do and it stays put after that.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> Are you talking about the spring loading of the deflector control arm on the dash? The spring is adjusted by the nut so that the arm just stays in the selected groove. If too slack the lever jumps out of the slot and raises the deflector. I have never tightened the spring so much that it caused a problem. Easy adjustment to do and it stays put after that.


yup, that’s what I’m talking about. _not an engineer_ but I feel like the whole bolt/spring mechanism should be supported on both sides. When I go and shift the deflector the arm doesn’t just go up a down, it’s able to wobble around. I suspect as I tighten the nut the wobble will be less.

as for adjusting it’s easy but it’s not. I can get a socket on the left nut, but i don’t have any stubby wrenches that fit into the right nut so it looks like I have to take the led light off the panel and slip a wrench in from there.

you’ve had to tighten yours from the factory?


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> yup, that’s what I’m talking about. _not an engineer_ but I feel like the whole bolt/spring mechanism should be supported on both sides. When I go and shift the deflector the arm doesn’t just go up a down, it’s able to wobble around. I suspect as I tighten the nut the wobble will be less.
> 
> as for adjusting it’s easy but it’s not. I can get a socket on the left nut, but i don’t have any stubby wrenches that fit into the right nut so it looks like I have to take the led light off the panel and slip a wrench in from there.
> 
> you’ve had to tighten yours from the factory?


I tightened mine during initial set up and have never had an issue since. I seem to remember it taking less than a minute by using a ratcheting box wrench. It's something that should be part of the dealer prep.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I can access the left nut with a ratchet. The right side I can’t fit a socket on it…. It’s too close to metal. 
I can’t fit my wrenches either. Looks like the light has to come off. Unless I can find my stubby crescent wrench.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> yup, that’s what I’m talking about. _not an engineer_ but I feel like the whole bolt/spring mechanism should be supported on both sides. When I go and shift the deflector the arm doesn’t just go up a down, it’s able to wobble around. I suspect as I tighten the nut the wobble will be less.
> 
> as for adjusting it’s easy but it’s not. I can get a socket on the left nut, but i don’t have any stubby wrenches that fit into the right nut so it looks like I have to take the led light off the panel and slip a wrench in from there.
> 
> you’ve had to tighten yours from the factory?


Yes, the lever needed adjustment from new once I started to blow snow. It moved out of the slot and went to full deflector up position. Easy adjustment as @JJG723 said, once adjusted it stayed put.

Edit: That was on the Platinum, the Pro has the electric chute and deflector control.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Done. Definately more than a minute.

had,to,use 2 wrenches (non ratcheting). And I had to take the light off for access. Not the best design.

had to tighten it up quite a bit. Seems to be ok. Didn’t try it with machine,running but it’s way more snug


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> Done. Definately more than a minute.
> 
> had,to,use 2 wrenches (non ratcheting). And I had to take the light off for access. Not the best design.
> 
> had to tighten it up quite a bit. Seems to be ok. Didn’t try it with machine,running but it’s way more snug


I guess Ariens must have moved the lever controls for chute deflector and speed control for 2023 compared to my 2015 Platinum 30 SHO? Here are pics of the location of both levers and the spring location for the chute control (on left). The chute control is far away from the light, and easy to adjust the spring tension.



















As you can see there is lots of space for adjustment on my 2015 Platinum. When I looked at the 2023 Platinum it appeared the controls were updated and looked nicer but I thought in the same place.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

No, it’s pretty much the same. Your chute spring is really compressed compared to mine.
I had a hard time sliding a wrench on the right side because the overhang “lip” of the console interferes with the nut. I couldn’t get a socket on the right side either, so I went through where the light is.
14mm and 9/16 were both a wee bit loose but did the job.

I can’t see from your pics but the speed selector looks like it has a nice thick washer as does mine, but the chute control mechanism has,a flimsy piece of metal between the housing and the mechanism. Thought there might be the same washer.

at any rate the speed selector is much smoother than the chute. Likely because of the cable, but I still think the chute mechanism is “wonky”. Maybe it’s just mine. It got better when I tightened it. Maybe I’ll go out again and tighten some more.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Ok update time.

I tightened the chute deflector some more. Used the machine last night and everything is “tickety-boo”. Guess the dealer missed this.

we’ve seen an almost 12” “normal” snowfall, and yesterday a 6-8” wet/heavy snowfall. The platinum performed well.

the garage had an unexpected change of plans that required a reorganization. I’m glad I went with the 24” model. Easier to accommodate and it’s a breeze to zip in between vehicles.

if I haven’t mentioned it before the auto turn is a dream. Glad I didn’t go with a cable steer system.

still having issues with operating the controls. 40+ years of muscle memory and now the drive, and auger levers are reversed. Figured I’d have adapted by now. Nope, lol.

when I shut down last night I kept it running and shut off fuel. Didn’t take long to die. Bout a minute, but I’ll actually time it.

I let the fuel run out at low,speed idle then I choked it. I was surprised it ran in choke mode for almost as long,as it ran wide open until it started to sputter.

not being a carb engineer, I’m guessing by shutting off the fuel you burn fuel down to the jet inlet. By choking,the sputtering engine it uses the rest of the fuel? Or is there fuel being used from the passages? I dunno. 

I do know that when I run dry there’s still fuel in the bowl and when I drain the carb there’s still a bit of fuel in it because the drain is a tad higher than the bottom of the bowl. I’d have to loosen the bowl but to completely drain.

I figured running dry on low idle would clear the low idle circuit in the carb. But I know nothing of how the inner carb circuits work. Low idle circuit works on low idle only, or also on high idle but not under load??

still using oneacers stabil/seafoam formula although I’m nervous as the engine manual says to clear out any ethanol after 30,days.

fuel should be good in the jerry cans as they are sealed. Same with the Ariens fuel tank (assuming a one way vent system).

the carb is vented to the atmosphere so I think instead of dumping the fuel after 30 days I can run the machine for 5 minutes to rotate the old fuel out of the carb. Just me being paranoid.

very happy with my platinum


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

If you have any clogging issues at this point, there is no cure and WE ALL have to accept that


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

If I clog up I’m going back to canned fuel. But I think I’ll be ok with oneacer fuel for the season. I’m still going to drain completely for storage and run some canned fuel. I think that’s the reasonable solution.


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## Russell Stephan (Feb 9, 2021)

Re: RPMs on the Predator (301cc) repowered Ariens ST824.

The first season of use, I ran it without an hour/rpm meter. Last year I put one on. The clock currently sits at 23.4 hours. I think she's well broken in.

And just the other day I bumped up the high limit to 4,100 RPM. Gonna be interesting to see the more-farther throw results.

Then, somewhere down the road are plans for a stage 2 kit -- billet rod, billet flywheel, new cam, and stiffer valve springs. I'm sure I'll run into belt slipping again at this point. But, that's fixable via a larger primary pulley when the issue presents itself.

The problem with being a gear head is that it's never enough...


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Russell Stephan said:


> And just the other day I bumped up the high limit to 4,100 RPM. Gonna be interesting to see the more-farther throw results.


You're likely on the diminishing side of HP and way down the torque curve. 3500-3700 RPM seems to be the sweet spot. Here's the curve chart for a GX390...


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## Russell Stephan (Feb 9, 2021)

> You're likely on the diminishing side of HP and way down the torque curve.
> 3500-3700 RPM seems to be the sweet spot. Here's the curve chart for a
> GX390...


Just because the max RPM is set to 4,100, doesn't mean one has to throttle it up that high. I'm well-versed in power curves. One can easily feel the meat of the torque curve on a motorcycle via the seat-of-the-pants dyno during a WFO tap dance through the gears. As the RPMs climb, the kick-in-the-pants is, well, a kick in the pants. Once past the peak torque with continued RPM spin-up to redline, the kick transitions to a, "Whatever..."

I'll do the same with the blower this winter given a good snow or two. To show off for the neighbors with moderate depths of light and fluffy, high RPMs are needed to launch it the farthest. If powering through wet and heavy end-of-driveway city plow cast-off, I should be able to back it down and zero in on the peak and meat of the torque curve.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

Shame on you for having some fun, we all know who the nerd with no friends is lol


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

First casualty of my platinum!

the Ariens emblem on the belt cover fell off. Not the end of the world, and hopefully I’ll find it in the spring, unless it went through the auger, lol.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I have heard of this happening quite often on what appear to be mostly this years machines.
I am sure Ariens is aware of the issue by now. I would contact them and ask them to supply a new emblem and what adhesive they recommend to install it.
3M makes a great emblem adhesive for the automotive market.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I suppose I could ask. No harm. I’m not terribly concerned about it. But it’s their name.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

Mine fell off in my living room when I first received it so I super glued it, remained secured first snowfall. Yea I was the scmuck out there at 6 am with 2.5" giving it a first go here in MA the other day


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