# Looking for tips on painting rusted areas on my snowblower



## thool (Jul 25, 2016)

I have a Yard Man Sno Bird from 1977 that is an orange/red color on the forward half, and black on the motor side. There is some surface rust, and I'm looking for advice on if or how to paint.

Until I can get some pics up here...

1. The rust is mostly on the orange/red bucket, along the edge where the side panels weld to the rolled top piece. Also some around the impeller housing.

2. There is also some on the black transmission box, again along the edges.

3. The chromed handlebars are rusted as well, and I can cup brush those and get some paint on them.

Is there recommended way to address the rust spots on the first two? Painting the whole units seems like a ton of work grinding and cleaning. Is spot treating (localized grinding and painting with a matched color) going to last? Are there any good hard paints or coatings that will last another 10 years of salty upstate NY winters?

Thanks.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Sand it down to metal, spray self etching primer , then hit it with your choice and color rattle bomb can paint. but just remember there is no hardner in the canned paint. so don't expect it to look like a shiny new corvette paint job.k:k:k:k:k: the only way for you to get a lasting paint job is to strip it down. clean it, prime it and spray it with very expensive paint. if I was you just do the first part I talked about.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> Strip it down. clean it, prime it and spray it with very expensive paint.


 Or you can take it all apart, and send it out for sanblasting and powder coating (will be a lot more expensive, but it should last a long time).


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

hsblowersfan said:


> Or you can take it all apart, and send it out for sanblasting and powder coating (will be a lot more expensive, but it should last a long time).


 Where is all the fun in that 1.:wavetowel2:


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## thool (Jul 25, 2016)

I guess at this point, I'm looking to prevent the rust from getting any worse for the next 10 winters. Looking for a vendor with paint that is close in color.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Check out some of the 'rust encapsulating' primers. I use an abrasive blaster with ground cinder material to do the blasting. I then use Evapo-rust to get the rust out followed by a rust encapsulating primer and finally paint.

I've has pretty good luck with this recipe.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

My two cents. 

First, buy a friggin' 3M real respirator with real filters such that you can't smell anything when it is on and the filters are new. SERIOUSLY!

Then prepare the metal by removing any rust you can.

Then brush or spray this:

Valspar Tractor And Implement Rusty Metal Primer

then brush or spray this:

Valspar® Tractor & Implement Enamel Paint

with 10% of mineral spirts to thin

and 10% of this:

Valspar 4625 Enamel Hardener 

and brush or spray it on.

USE A RESPIRATOR (NOT A MASK) A FRIGGIN' 3M CHARCOAL RESPIRATOR AND REPLACE THE RESPIRATOR FILTERS EVERY 4 TO 8 HOURS.

I am setting up a supplied air breathing mask because I do some fiberglass work as well as paint a lot of metal stuff.

I simply love the Valspar tractor and implement metal paint with Vaspar hardener!

The hardener is the reason you need a respirator. It will hurt you if you breath it.

My guess is that the hardener likely also works with Rustoleum in the quart and pint cans. 

Note: Here is the deal with Rustoleum in the quart and pint cans. It is way too thick, so if you don't thin it, it skins over and since all the voc's have been removed by the EPA, it needs to air dry. But once it skins over, the paint underneath will never really air dry, so it is never hard. So you get an unacceptable finish which you can always stick your fingernail into.

Maybe if you thin Rustoleum with acetone (the thinner recommended on the can) it will function fine without the Valspar hardener. But I won't likely ever try that because I love the Valspar Tractor Implement paint plus Valspar Hardener so much I will likely never use paint without it.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

E350 said:


> My two cents.
> 
> First, buy a friggin' 3M real respirator with real filters such that you can't smell anything when it is on and the filters are new. SERIOUSLY!
> 
> ...


* Well then I guess I should not have inhaled all that POR-15 Hard nose paint then. but on the plus side it was a epic high while it lasted.:icon_whistling:k:*


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Definitely use respirator, or avoid hardener. Hardener can be extremely toxic. Think Bhopal.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Picked up some spray orange and a spray bare metal primer. Hmm. Must be a better way.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Tony-chicago said:


> Picked up some spray orange and a spray bare metal primer. Hmm. Must be a better way.


Picking it up won't work, you have to push the little buttons on top and make it squirt out.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

thool said:


> I guess at this point, I'm looking to prevent the rust from getting any worse for the next 10 winters. Looking for a vendor with paint that is close in color.


Need pictures to see the extent of the rust before commenting.
Was the black factory color? The orange/red, if you bring a piece to an auto parts store or anywhere they have a color matcher you can get a rattle can to touch up.
How bad are the handlebars?
I cleaned mine up, need pictures to see what yours are like.
Pictures would be nice. 


EDIT,
GOT SUCKED INTO AN OLD THREAD, THANKS TONY. 
I NORMALLY DON'T.
AND THOOL NEVER CAME BACK AT ALL. THOUGH HE WAS ON 16 HOURS AGO.
I GUESS HE DIDN'T DO ANYTHING?


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

I will be getting my chute a lot smoother today. Went to remedy the slush buidup and found rust. So before I polish, clay, aio, glaze, wax, and fluid film/silicon; I will repaint. And if I do all that, and an impeller kit, it will not snow...


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