# ALWAYS Do This To Your Snowblower!



## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

New video from donyboy73:


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## Michele (Nov 17, 2015)

Been doing this for years on snowblowers and lawn tractors too.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Michele said:


> Been doing this for years on snowblowers and lawn tractors too.


Lawn tractor? Did you see donyboy's video on removing a seized PTO? Very thrilling and he uses the anti-seize again!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

donyboy is the MAN!

would love to visit his shop.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I use to use graphite Never Seize on axles and such but switched to synthetic grease. Cheaper and not necessary. I use Never Seize on car lug nuts, head bolts, muffler bolts, and bolts that will seize up.


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## Hanky (Nov 14, 2014)

I use never Seize on back side of rims where they mount on the hubs. I never use on lug nuts as harder to keep them tight as I change winter rims and summer rims.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Every shop should have a can of NeverSeize …...


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## Steve70 (Nov 12, 2018)

I've used this kind of Never Seize for decades. I've not heard of doing this before, but it makes sense. I'm guessing the reason I've never thought of doing something like this is that in over 50 years of snowblowing in heavy snow country, I've never had to remove a wheel. 

Pertaining to lug nuts: Years ago (and for many years)I used to put a dab of synthetic grease on the wheel studs for the reasons mentioned here. I've since been told, and have read, you shouldn't do that with the torque specs for disc brakes these days. I have a couple vehicles that only call for 90 pounds...none over 110. It's not like the old drum brake days when the big boys at the tire shop put the torque to them and you had to have a breaker bar with you to get them off.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Steve70 said:


> I've used this kind of Never Seize for decades. I've not heard of doing this before, but it makes sense. I'm guessing the reason I've never thought of doing something like this is that in over 50 years of snowblowing in heavy snow country, I've never had to remove a wheel.
> 
> Pertaining to lug nuts: Years ago (and for many years)I used to put a dab of synthetic grease on the wheel studs for the reasons mentioned here. I've since been told, and have read, you shouldn't do that with the torque specs for disc brakes these days. I have a couple vehicles that only call for 90 pounds...none over 110. It's not like the old drum brake days when the big boys at the tire shop put the torque to them and you had to have a breaker bar with you to get them off.


Lower torque on the lugs is the result of all the aluminum wheels and either deforming or cracking under high torque.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

If you use Never Seize on axle shaft, why is it we don't use it on auger shaft. I guess the auger shaft needs more attention and ease of use with zerks?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Periodically you should check that your auger is free spinning on its shaft .... Even if it means pulling the shear pin/bolt, and spinning it.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

I really like DB's videos. He works on all kinds of blowers and if you had an MTD like I did, he provides a lot of insight and useful information. FWIW, back in the day, aboard ship, we made our own anti-seize by mixing graphite powder and either oil or grease, depending on the application.


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## Steve70 (Nov 12, 2018)

Dauntae said:


> Lower torque on the lugs is the result of all the aluminum wheels and either deforming or cracking under high torque.


Hadn't heard that before. It would have to be extremely high torque, mismatched parts, or the wrong sequence of tightening to break a wheel I would guess?

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

From what I remember the earlier use of aluminum rims were a issue when too tight, but newer grades of aluminum are much better.


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## Dos522 (Mar 3, 2015)

oneacer said:


> Periodically you should check that your auger is free spinning on its shaft .... Even if it means pulling the shear pin/bolt, and spinning it.


At the risk of sounding dumb I'll ask you my question anyway, do I need to add grease and/or lubrication to any parts on my brand new snowblower? Does it come from the factory greased?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

There is never a dumb question .....

Your manual should specify the grease/lube points on your specific machine.

Many big box store machines are not greased as they should be when sold out the door. This is one area your local brand retailer should shine.

Some blowers have sealed bearings, but there are many points on all machines that need periodic maintenance for proper operation, with the augers being lubed on the auger shaft being one. If not lubed, many have zerk grease fittings, they will get rust welded over time, and the shear pin will not do its job, and you will take out a gear in the gear box.


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

oneacer said:


> Many big box store machines are not greased as they should be when sold out the door. This is one area your local brand retailer should shine.


What he said.

However, there are occasionally bad dealers as well as good mechanics at the big box stores. That is not the norm but it does happen.

In any event regardless of where you buy it, it will not hurt a thing if you do over it the minute you get it home (preferably before a snowflake falls) and do all the lubrication/greasing specified in the manual. That way you will know for sure that it was done. If you bought it new, it's also cleaner that it will probably ever be again and it's a pleasure to work on, and you will familiarize yourself thoroughly with the new machine.

I bought my Ariens new and the axles had been greased but not liberally and I was glad that I took the wheels off when I did and found that rust was just starting to form. Had I waited another year I'd have been using hammers and foul language.


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## Tornado Red (Oct 12, 2019)

For those hesitating to do this to the axles: I have a new Cub Cadet I bought a little over a month ago, used it one time so far. This made a lot of sense to lub up the axles so I removed the bolt on the right hand wheel and it wouldn't come off (already!) Had to use a 2x4 and a machine hammer to coax it off (left wheel was fine). No rust yet of course, but not much lubricant either. Appeared to have a very thin film of something, not quite sure what. I used some Jet-Lube Kopr-Kote anti-seize and reapplied. Also removed the 4 shear pins (3 stage) and used some white lithium spray grease on the auger shafts. Don't know why theses manufacturers can't spend an extra couple of bucks and put on grease nipples at the factory. Planned obsolescence I guess. This was assembled at Lowe's, and during first use I noticed I only had one reverse gear so had to readjust the cable. That kind of got my attention to what else may not be assembled/adjusted right.


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## rcleone (Dec 7, 2015)

*rcleone*

Very good advice. I was just getting my snowblower ready for winter, and took the wheels off the axles, and it was loaded with rust. The snowblower is only 5 years old.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

any blower bought from a big box store is suspect.

either completely go thru it or pay someone to do it.


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## 88-tek (Nov 5, 2017)

The keywords, "This was assembled at Lowe's" should be a red flag for everyone.. those F***tards will use a spork for a screwdriver...

:facepalm_zpsdj194qh


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## Snowfanatic (Apr 7, 2019)

I doubt I need to regrease the case yet but curious why the factory would leave a glob on the side. Would that help keep debris and water out? How hard of a job is it to get the case open? Sounds like the best way before adding a zerk is to clean all old grease out first. Surprised dony didn’t mention that on his video.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

It helps to seal it. That could be from assembly or the gear case being a little bit over-filled with grease and when the case gets hot and the air inside expands, it can cause some grease to ooze out of a seal like that.
There are no breathers for those gear cases so that's why you do not want to over-fill them if you ever take one apart and pack it with grease, or that is what will happen.


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## Snowfanatic (Apr 7, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> It helps to seal it. That could be from assembly or the gear case being a little bit over-filled with grease and when the case gets hot and the air inside expands, it can cause some grease to ooze out of a seal like that.
> There are no breathers for those gear cases so that's why you do not want to over-fill them if you ever take one apart and pack it with grease, or that is what will happen.


What’s the easiest way to pull transmission?


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

On the Honda you have to unbolt the right side "Sub Trans" from the frame side. First you remove the wheel or track on the right side.
It might make it easier if you remove the auger housing, then you have to disconnect cables and controls from right handlebar, then remove the right side "Engine Bed" or "Tractor" frame so you can get to the inside of the sub trans. Then you remove the gears and the Pin from the input shaft, then you can remove the case of the right sub transmission if thats all you want to remove.
Once all of that is out, then remove the left wheel or the rest of the track assembly and control cables plus drive belt and the main trans/Hydro trans can come out if it is on the older Honda with the transmission made by Honda.
Your best bet is to get the Honda service manual, that explains in detail how to remove it properly.
The older Honda Hydro units had a separate oil tank that has to be disconnected at the hose to transmission.

The newer Honda's with the Hydro-Gear trans are mounted differently.


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## Snowfanatic (Apr 7, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> On the Honda you have to unbolt the right side "Sub Trans" from the frame side. First you remove the wheel or track on the right side.
> It might make it easier if you remove the auger housing, then you have to disconnect cables and controls from right handlebar, then remove the right side "Engine Bed" or "Tractor" frame so you can get to the inside of the sub trans. Then you remove the gears and the Pin from the input shaft, then you can remove the case of the right sub transmission if thats all you want to remove.
> Once all of that is out, then remove the left wheel or the rest of the track assembly and control cables plus drive belt and the main trans/Hydro trans can come out if it is on the older Honda with the transmission made by Honda.
> Your best bet is to get the Honda service manual, that explains in detail how to remove it properly.
> ...


I’ll probably pick up a manual at some point here. Assuming the machine is basically brand new how long would you go before adding grease to the right side?


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