# Which oil to use?...



## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

I have a 10hp. Tecumseh engine on my snowblower and I'm wondering what's the correct oil viscosity to use in it? :smiley-confused013: … --> I'm guessing 5W-30 but I just want to make sure… Right or wrong? 

Thanks, 
Claude.


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

Yes 5w-30 in most 


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

5w 30 or 10w in older machines IMO


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

e.fisher26 said:


> 5w 30 or 10w in older machines IMO




" older"…? :icon_scratch: … What about 2004 ? :smiley-confused013:

Claude.


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

5w 30 or 10w in older machines IMO


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

5W30 , *Full Synthetic*


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

oneacer said:


> 5W30 , *Full Synthetic*


Ok 5W-30, I got it :thumbsup:… but is it important that the oil be synthetic?… 

Claude.


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

@oneacer

^^ Yeah, what he said.


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

Sgthawker said:


> @oneacer
> 
> ^^ Yeah, what he said.


Ok!… 5W-30 synthetic it is!  :thumbsup:

Thanks,

Claude.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@too (Claude),

Yes, oil is something you don't want to skimp on, as it is the life blood of any machine. All my equipment engines, summer and winter, new and old, get it. A great range, covering a wide spectrum of operating range … easy starting and the best protection.


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

@toofastforyou

I meant what you said, as to why synthetic oil query, but he verified anyway.


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

@oneacer @toofastforyou


oneacer said:


> @too (Claude),
> 
> Yes, oil is something you don't want to skimp on, as it is the life blood of any machine. All my equipment engines, summer and winter, new and old, get it. A great range, covering a wide spectrum of operating range … easy starting and the best protection.


I just watched a YT video, and it stated operating range from -20 to +120 plus multi year use before degradation necessitating oil change with a bit of a premium price. Well worth it in my opinion.

Thanks to both of you for bringing this info to light.
:grin:


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

I vote and use, 5w-30 Full Synthetic in my Predator


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## Brent Holm (Oct 22, 2019)

I keep seeing this push for synthetic on these machine but, I am a dino oil or semi syn guy on a carbed small engine. It is my understanding that fuel dilution is a problem with full synthetic. They do not mix well and you can have bearing issues. The dino is better at protecting your engine from fuel dilution. I lost a VERY expensive car engine once to Amsoil full synthetic. Big Buick built 464 cu in motor lost a rod bearing after just a couple thousand miles. My builder rebuilt it on his dime but suspected the full synthetic was a contributor. I run synthetics in modern vehicles but I am leery of them in old machines. I would recommend changing often if using a full synthetic. Todays oil is soo much better than it used to be, running dino in a small engine isn't going to hurt it. I think it is a better choice personally.


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## TooTall999 (Nov 19, 2015)

Snowblower engines rely on a splash lubrication system. There is no oil pump or filter. You want the best oil based on manufacturer's recommendation. I use 5W-30 full synthetic in all my engines.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

Oh man the oil question.... 

I am in the firm belief it doesnt matter if oil is in the engine and you change it semi regularly. It doesnt matter one bit.

All the small engines I have came across blown up or seized are because the owner let them get low on oil or no oil at all.

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## Brent Holm (Oct 22, 2019)

TooTall999 said:


> Snowblower engines rely on a splash lubrication system. There is no oil pump or filter. You want the best oil based on manufacturer's recommendation. I use 5W-30 full synthetic in all my engines.


Is that what the manufacturer recommends?


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I'm with Subie, regular oil changes and maintaining proper oil level is key.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Direct from Briggs & Stratton website:

*" Synthetic SAE 5W-30- Best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption "*


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

right from the printed service manual 
quote 
ENGINE OIL
Use a clean, high quality detergent oil. Be sure original container is marked: A.P.I. service SF thru SJ. The use of
multigrade oil may increase oil consumption under high temperature, high load applications.
NOTE: DO NOT USE SAE10W40 OIL.
For summer (above 32°F, 0oC) use SAE 30 oil part # 730225 (1 quart, .946 liter container) in high temperature, high
load applications.
S.A.E.10W30 is an acceptable substitute.
For winter (below 32°F, 0oC) use S.A.E. 5W30 oil part # 730226 (1 quart, .946 liter container)
S.A.E.10W is an acceptable substitute.
S.A.E. 0W30 should only be used when ambient temperature is below 0oF, -18oC. 
end quote
so using the manual 
5w30 in the winter both kinds are except able


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@87,

Just curious, but what manual for what machine, and when was that printed? It does recommend 5W30 for winter, but being a snowblower manual, it should already know that. 

I also bet that manual was printed before synthetic oil was even a thing. Just curious …


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Clearly, there's no subject more polarizing than the oil debate. Doesn't matter whether it's a motorcycle, car, boat or (apparently) snowblower site. Having lived through all of them, I'll continue to follow the manual recommendations, check the level frequently, and change it regularly. Haven't lost an engine yet...:icon-hgtg:


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## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

Is synthetic better? Yup, but the drop-off to Dino quality ain't what it once was. They are all very good these days.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

gibbs296 said:


> Is synthetic better? Yup, but the drop-off to Dino quality ain't what it once was. They are all very good these days.


I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra Gt with over 435,000 miles. I have used Amsoil Synthetic oil since I bought it at 91,000 miles in 2007. It is my son's daily driver and he says it now has over 435,000 miles. I want to see this car get to 500,000 miles. The last odometer picture I have is 430,578


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

oneacer said:


> @87,
> 
> Just curious, but what manual for what machine, and when was that printed? It does recommend 5W30 for winter, but being a snowblower manual, it should already know that.
> 
> I also bet that manual was printed before synthetic oil was even a thing. Just curious …


right from my bulk of dealer factory tech service manuals. last ver. that gives info on the L head and ohv motors . dated 2005 lets remember tech is gone for about 12 years give or take 

IMM these are old motors many with lots of hours on them. sometimes starting to using syn in them,they start burning or leaking oil so a good name brand dyno of 5w30 works best ,


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

I decided to use some 5W-30 non-synthetic. For a small engine who sees about 25~30 hours of use in a year, I'm sure that it'll be fine. Synthetic might be great stuff, but not an absolute necessity... I've always used regular oil in my '75 Briggs & Stratton powered Lawn-Boy snowblower and it still runs today.

Claude.


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## Brent Holm (Oct 22, 2019)

toofastforyou said:


> I decided to use some 5W-30 non-synthetic. For a small engine who sees about 25~30 hours of use in a year, I'm sure that it'll be fine. Synthetic might be great stuff, but not an absolute necessity... I've always used regular oil in my '75 Briggs & Stratton powered Lawn-Boy snowblower and it still runs today.
> 
> Claude.



Of course it does... because of regular maintenance not because of your oil choice. People get so hung up on synthetic oil, which absolutely has it's place but, not in my carb'ed small engines. Not a single comment on the fuel dilution issue leads me to think people just go synthetic based on the hype.


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

Brent Holm said:


> Of course it does... because of regular maintenance not because of your oil choice. People get so hung up on synthetic oil, which absolutely has it's place but, not in my carb'ed small engines. Not a single comment on the fuel dilution issue leads me to think people just go synthetic based on the hype.


good one man!! we are talking about a engine with tops 9 to 1 compression , no cat converters yet! no turbos ,most still have a carb which won't be for much longer thanks to cali carb wants . most may see 10 or 20 hours a year, dyno works , 

yes syn flows much better and has a wider temp range for operation a 0w30 syn is better than a dyno 5w?? the detergents last longer, the list goes on and on, 
IMM up to the owner just follow the what the owners manuals state as to weight


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I wish I had a dollar for every oil thread … 

I have always used the 5W30 Full Synthetic, as per the best recommended by B&S, in all my equipment, new and old, summer and winter.

At the end of the day, … If you have any doubts, then go by your manual and use what they suggest.

If you still have doubts, then call the manufacturer.

If you still have doubts, then go with whatever would make you feel comfortable, and don't worry about what the other guy is using, as there is always going to be the great oil debate, and everyone has there own way, and there own favorites ..…. just sayin …


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Brent Holm said:


> Of course it does... because of regular maintenance not because of your oil choice. People get so hung up on synthetic oil, which absolutely has it's place but, not in my carb'ed small engines. Not a single comment on the fuel dilution issue leads me to think people just go synthetic based on the hype.


I have never heard of the "fuel dilution issue" regarding the choice of synthetic oil in an engine. Can you update me?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, that was a weird line in my mind as well. Maybe something to do with the Flux Capacitor?


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Oil dilution is more an issue in diesels, since diesel tends to evaporate a lot more slowly. In a small engine with a vented case, I would expect that any fuel that made it past the rings would immediately be expelled/consumed as vapor, and be a non issue. This assumes that th engine is run ling enough to get to temp, of course . . . 

And in diesels, this is more of an issue if after injection is in play for the EPA . . . and even there, if brought up to temp, not a huge issue.


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## Brent Holm (Oct 22, 2019)

No, oil dilution is more of an issue in a carbed small engine than anything other than a completely worn out diesel. Fuel gets past the rings, probably more than the average yard machine due to the cold operating temps. The machine has no filter, the oil has to carry the gas. Synthetics to not protect as well as dino against this because they do not mix well with gas where the dino will better absorb gas and continue to protect the engine. Already posted it once... had I not had a very good relationship with my engine builder, synthetic would have cost me $10 grand to replace the carbed hot rod engine, which BTW was on dino forever after that. Synthetic for my wifes small turbocharged car, semi syn as recommended by my trucks manufacturer and dino for the blower and wood splitter. Each has a purpose and the notion that synthetics are better as a blanket statement is false in my experience. My experience is three decades of power equipment and over 80 vehicles that have passed through my ownership. If you think synthetic is what is best for your small engine, go right ahead. My point is, that doesn't seem like those espousing that have researched it very thoroughly.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Sigh . . . that's a load of **** . . . Look into current common rail diesels running SCR emissions, and it's a very real issue right out of the factory. As far as small engines, unless is really ragged, pressures are too low to drive much past the rings, and once the engine is warm, it evaporates right out of the oil . . . the claim that a filter has anything to do with getting gasoline out of the oil is hysterical . . . tell me another one, I'm DYING!!! Heck, even diesel, when up to temp, evaporates the fuel out of the oil, and diesel has a far, far, lower vapor pressure . . . .

When significant dilution is happening, it's obvious . . . the level on the dipstick *rises* . . . .


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Brent Holm said:


> No, oil dilution is more of an issue in a carbed small engine than anything other than a completely worn out diesel. Fuel gets past the rings, probably more than the average yard machine due to the cold operating temps. The machine has no filter, the oil has to carry the gas. Synthetics to not protect as well as dino against this because they do not mix well with gas where the dino will better absorb gas and continue to protect the engine. Already posted it once... had I not had a very good relationship with my engine builder, synthetic would have cost me $10 grand to replace the carbed hot rod engine, which BTW was on dino forever after that. Synthetic for my wifes small turbocharged car, semi syn as recommended by my trucks manufacturer and dino for the blower and wood splitter. Each has a purpose and the notion that synthetics are better as a blanket statement is false in my experience. My experience is three decades of power equipment and over 80 vehicles that have passed through my ownership. If you think synthetic is what is best for your small engine, go right ahead. My point is, that doesn't seem like those espousing that have researched it very thoroughly.


It is well known that synthetic oil mixes perfectly with regular oil in an engine. Fuel dilution of the oil is a problem for synthetics and regular oil. The OEM standard for max fuel dilution is 3% up to 7% (based upon Amsoil research and their research of OEM standards). The degree of engine wear from the fuel dilution is said to be dependent largely upon oil viscosity and film strength, and the quality of the additive package. Synthetic oils have greater film strength than regular oil because of the smaller long chain molecules. 

The idea that a oil filter will somehow prevent or eliminate fuel dilution is obviously incorrect, oil of all types and fuel will flow through virtually unhindered. The idea that synthetics do not mix well with gas is also incorrect, as you can see when putting the two together in a container. Synthetics do protect an engine better than regular oil (under fuel dilution circumstances) because they have greater film strength. Once fuel dilution becomes noticeable (like smelling gas off dipstick or a rise in oil levels) then the engine should not be operated and the cause found and corrected and the oil replaced.

It is not a problem for you to use regular oil because of your experience and beliefs, and experience with an engine builder. It is not ok to suggest that others with a different opinion, based on their knowledge and experience, are wrong. You need to justify your view that we do not know what we are talking about, beyond quoting some individuals opinion.


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## melson (Feb 9, 2015)

<double sigh... > Prior to the arrival of diesels with EFI the major contributor to oil dilution was leaking and/or mal-adjusted and/or improperly spec'ed fuel injectors and / or cracked and leaking fuel plumbing.
Digitally controlled electronic F. I. has made a big improvement. 
As for synthetic oil, it is a better product in nearly every metric. And, yes, it can be mixed with reg oils, and, yes, it can become fuel diluted.
I am not an expert but did have to learn about the stuff while working 42 years tech support in the realm of power production and power conditioning.


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## penna stogey (Nov 25, 2019)

oneacer said:


> I wish I had a dollar for every oil thread …
> 
> I have always used the 5W30 Full Synthetic, as per the best recommended by B&S, in all my equipment, new and old, summer and winter.
> 
> ...


You'll be the Richest man ever....even in here has a oil
thread...Me likey oil threads..


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

Since it is a Tec. and winter engine I think this might be the call:

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/tecumseh/730226b


Also saw Donyboy recommends on Tec's keeping RPM's between 2200-2300 rpm's full throttle.


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

I'm going with running dino oil while breaking in and then eventually I'll throw some synthetic in there. 



We got another 6 inches or so and a bit more with drifts here last night. I got my old TruTest with new B&S 1150 (old 8hp sized) engine out to blow the driveway and sidewalks. The engine might have two hours or so on it as I've used it three times this winter and my driveway is perhaps 30 feet long and 30 feet wide. I'll run down the sidewalks for a house or two just to have fun blowing snow! 



With that many hours I've probably changed the oil four times now, 

A 10 minute run in the garage to warm up the first one and flush the engine,
Another 10 minute run or so in the garage and another oil change,
After the first storm and perhaps 30 minutes or less of use and another oil change,
After two more (including today) storms and another hour and a half (guesstimate) of use and another oil change.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/rdwX4RYqXyJn9GpQ9


Video of the beautiful oil, I used two neodymium magnets on a wire and ran that through the oil, seen maybe one fleck of metal on it and the rest of the flecks are aluminum I'll guess. The B&S engine has an aluminum cylinder bore so this is from the rings seating in I'll suspect.


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

@ notabiker: Sounds good!!!

AS long as you check your oil regularly and keep it at a proper level you should be Fine.

I would think so on the Briggs. First ten hours just change it once or twice dino is not to $$$$......

Then roll with the oil you want or manual recommends.


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

SimplicitySolid22 said:


> @ notabiker: Sounds good!!!
> 
> AS long as you check your oil regularly and keep it at a proper level you should be Fine.
> 
> ...



Yup, do that to all my new toys and vehicles. Do some early oil changes and give them a Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power nice break in and off I go.


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## gr0uch0 (Sep 2, 2015)

1995 Tecumseh, where recommended was 5W-30. Doesn't matter whether it's synthetic or dino: just change it. Dino a bit more frequently than synthetic. Never blown an engine in my 40+ years of engine operation, whether it's 600 ponies or less.


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## 88-tek (Nov 5, 2017)

Sheez....The Great Oil Debate has sure gotten some panties in a oil-soaked twist, eh...? :blink:


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

88-tek said:


> Sheez....The Great Oil Debate has sure gotten some panties in a oil-soaked twist, eh...? :blink:


it's a never ending panties in a ball debate, 

end is really it's not so much the weight , below 32 every single bore motor spec is 5w30, new motors are even saying syn 0w30 below 32 it's the service rating's GF sf,sg and up, that matters , so dino works change it yearly, syntech flows faster which helps a motor with splash lubed rods and bearings get oiled up faster,


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

a PS
those of you wondering about how good or bad walmarts supertech oil is, it's produced by Warren Oil Company, Inc. which is one of America's largest independent lubricant manufacturer. You can easily spot WPP written at the bottom of the Supertech Oil container. 1 i use it in everything save my plane never have had a single issue . 
here's a link's to the info https://mechanicbase.com/reviews/supertech-engine-oil-review/
https://atfulldrive.com/super-tech-synthetic-oil-vs-mobil-

https://vehicleslab.com/who-makes-supertech-oil/


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Supertech full synthetic used here, Good value and good oil.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

??? You're telling me we're supposed to *change the oil?? *What kind of oil? Where does it go in?




















sarcasm!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lmao ….


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