# 32inch Ariens Restoration and Repower



## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

I picked up a 32inch Ariens off of craigslist with a 7hp tec motor. After some research, I figured it to be a 1972 model. While it did run ok, I needed a new project to work on...

After taking it apart and cleaned it, I noticed only a couple parts needed to be replaced: one wheel axle bushing and the impeller bearing. I was quite surprised with the condition this machine was in, especially for its age. I then proceeded to freshen up the paint and repaint the augers, handle bars, and some of the hardware black...that way it's a vintage machine with a modern twist to it. I happen to think it looks pretty sharp. 
The motor part of the blower is still disassembled because I'm working on the powertrain of the machine, so I didn't think those pics were worth posting at this time.

I bought a new 420cc Predator engine for $280 that will be getting mounted on this weekend if I have the spare time. It doesn't fit the original mounting studs that were on there, but even if it did I'd redo them to compensate for the added power. 
I bought some 3/16 plate steel to make a custom mounting plate for the new motor, I wanted to buy 1/4inch, or even 5/16th inch, but for whatever reason my local metal supplier didn't have any suitable sized metal, or it was hidden and just couldn't find it. Regardless, I'm going to beef the whole thing up just for good measure.
I plan on tackling this next part this weekend hopefully, and I'll be sure to take as many pics as I can, and take notes. That way, someone else can use it as a guide for their own machine.

I can't wait to get it mounted and fired up

I want to know what you pros think about it so far, let me know


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Slowrider No pro here, but that's looking sharp
I love seeing the old girls brought back to shine. I see you managed to keep the serial number sticker, too.
Wish my '79 project had that gearbox. 
Be interested in seeing your plate design as I am considering doing that on mine.
Keep up the good work.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Thanks, JT
Yeah, I wanted to keep all the original stickers and decals, except I was being a real dope and thought I could paint around them instead of taping them up. A couple of them now have over-spray. Stupid...
As for the mounting plate, it's going to be a rather simple design. I'll be sure to document it well and explain it


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

This guy sells stickers for our old Ariens machines. They are really nice if you ever need new ones. Click it and stick it


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

That's a great project your doing, I also like to make some older things new again, motorcycles, stereo recievers..ect keep up the good work
and post back when you can !!


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Looks great, I think you will be very pleased with the 420cc/13hp Predator engine. When i restored my 1984 26" large frame Cub Cadet i used the older 390cc 11hp greyhound engine and it works great.

carl


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

After everything is all said and done, and when I have some extra cash, I'll have to buy some of those decals. That's a pretty cool website

Carl, how does your blower perform with the extra power...in regards to the added weight and power? Did you have to buy a stronger belt or did an oem belt suffice? And did the drivetrain move the extra weight of the blower well?


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I know those old engines made more torque but did that machine originally come with a 7 H.P. engine on it?? Dang if that engine didn't have to work like a rented mule. I'm sure you're going to be way happier with the bigger engine.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

CarlB said:


> Looks great, I think you will be very pleased with the 420cc/13hp Predator engine. When i restored my 1984 26" large frame Cub Cadet i used the older 390cc 11hp greyhound engine and it works great.
> 
> carl


I believe the 340 was the 11HP and the 390 was the 13HP.

As for the blower, that is looking nice. Can't wait to hear how it performs. Next you need to make an impeller kit and get new tires.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

SlowRider22 said:


> After everything is all said and done, and when I have some extra cash, I'll have to buy some of those decals. That's a pretty cool website
> 
> Carl, how does your blower perform with the extra power...in regards to the added weight and power? Did you have to buy a stronger belt or did an oem belt suffice? And did the drivetrain move the extra weight of the blower well?



Blower performs fine, I increased the impeller pulley 1/2" and it blows snow like a snow tornado. I don't think the new OHV 11hp engine is much heavier than the original 8hp Tecumseh. Blower has roller skids and a posi trac axle so it is easy to steer and turn Old belt was 1/2" for both drive and auger. No problems with the belt.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Shryp said:


> I believe the 340 was the 11HP and the 390 was the 13HP.



Shryp,

You are 100% correct. I did put a 340cc 11hp greyhound on my Cub. The 420CC is 15hp and a whole lot of motor.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

micah68kj said:


> I know those old engines made more torque but did that machine originally come with a 7 H.P. engine on it?? Dang if that engine didn't have to work like a rented mule. I'm sure you're going to be way happier with the bigger engine.


From the research that I did on this machine, yes it did come with a 7hp Tecumseh. I have a strange feeling you're right about me being satisfied with the larger motor




Shryp said:


> I believe the 340 was the 11HP and the 390 was the 13HP.
> 
> As for the blower, that is looking nice. Can't wait to hear how it performs. Next you need to make an impeller kit and get new tires.


Thanks. I'm mounting the motor up tonight..pics will be up soon. And that's what I'm planning on doing this week, is to make an impeller kit. I'm still on the hunt for the pieces of rubber I can use. Any ideas where I might find some because I don't want to spend the money on the Clarence Kit when I can make my own for a fraction of the cost.
As for the tires, I'm looking at X-Tracs to put on, but that won't be for a while...I just plan on just putting the chains on them for the time being



CarlB said:


> Blower performs fine, I increased the impeller pulley 1/2" and it blows snow like a snow tornado. I don't think the new OHV 11hp engine is much heavier than the original 8hp Tecumseh. Blower has roller skids and a posi trac axle so it is easy to steer and turn Old belt was 1/2" for both drive and auger. No problems with the belt.


Ok good, because I ordered a 1/2inch larger pulley earlier this week. Should be here next week. And mine has a differential axle in it, too...should make a 32inch move like a 24inch


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

Slowrider, what size tires are on tour Ariens???


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

micah68kj said:


> I know those old engines made more torque but did that machine originally come with a 7 H.P. engine on it?? Dang if that engine didn't have to work like a rented mule. I'm sure you're going to be way happier with the bigger engine.


 Well actually the new engines with the OHV head design are much more efficient per cc (Much better bench flow) and tend to make more torque and horse power than did the old flat head or L Head engines. My HF Predator totally blows the old Tecumseh away in it's performance. In fact if the 8hp Briggs (319cc) I am restoring made as much power per cc as the 7hp OHV Predator 212cc it would be putting out 10.57hp. An 11hp Predator is a much more powerful engine than an old 7hp Tecumseh and has way more torque too.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Simplicity Solid 22 said:


> Slowrider, what size tires are on tour Ariens???


The tires are 13inch mounted on 7inch rims


And after some welding, customizing, and all of that fun stuff I finally got the motor mounted. I reassembled the entire blower so I could take pics and to give a stable platform for the motor while it's being broken in,

The custom mount that I made was 3/16inch plate. I cut off the existing studs off with the grinder. I welded the new plate right on top and left a little cut-out area for the throwout lever (that little rod that sticks though the metal, part of the clutch assembly). My welds were pretty sloppy for what I normally do, but they're still strong to hold up.

After the plate was welded on, I put the motor on top to figure out its best placement. I scribed the template onto the mounting plate, drilled the holes, and then tapped them to fit a 5/8inch bolts.

I installed the bolts into the tapped holes from the top down and I used permanent thread locker to them. I cut off the heads of the bolts. The new studs got some nice welds to the mounting place for some heavy duty strength.

The motor was mounted up, and used a washer, lock washer, nut, and thread locker per each stud. I drained the manufacturer's oil from the crankcase, added my own oil, gassed her up...after the FIRST pull it started. I couldn't be any happier with how it went.

I'm still waiting for my pulley and axle bushing to be shipped, and when I have those replaced it will be a complete machine.

Can't wait for some snow to throw


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

SlowRider22 said:


> The tires are 13inch mounted on 7inch rims
> 
> 
> And after some welding, customizing, and all of that fun stuff I finally got the motor mounted. I reassembled the entire blower so I could take pics and to give a stable platform for the motor while it's being broken in,
> ...


Wow that thing should be a Beast!. Since it is still warm out and the Predator is an emission engine you most likely need to jet the engine richer once it gets cold out. Typically for every 50-60 degree drop in temperature you should go up 1 jet size since the air becomes a bit denser when cold and that leans out the fuel air ratio. I have a HF 212cc Predator engine on my 1996 MTD 5/22 and I like it. It has way more power than the Tecumseh ever did and starts in 1 pull of the recoil. I did however need to enlarge the main jet and I ran some thread with polishing compound through the primary jet too since it surged a bit with the choke off when the temp got down to 25 degrees. Now it runs awesome even at zero degrees Fahrenheit and tosses snow 40 feet. Here it is in action against 11 inches of snow.
Mtd Yardmachine 5/22 repower with Harbor frieght Pedator 212cc ...


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

GustoGuy said:


> Wow that thing should be a Beast!. Since it is still warm out and the Predator is an emission engine you most likely need to jet the engine richer once it gets cold out. Typically for every 50-60 degree drop in temperature you should go up 1 jet size since the air becomes a bit denser when cold and that leans out the fuel air ratio. I have a HF 212cc Predator engine on my 1996 MTD 5/22 and I like it. It has way more power than the Tecumseh ever did and starts in 1 pull of the recoil. I did however need to enlarge the main jet and I ran some thread with polishing compound through the primary jet too since it surged a bit with the choke off when the temp got down to 25 degrees. Now it runs awesome even at zero degrees Fahrenheit and tosses snow 40 feet. Here it is in action against 11 inches of snow.
> Mtd Yardmachine 5/22 repower with Harbor frieght Pedator 212cc ...


That's great, you're blower is tossing that deep snow without hesitation. 

As far as the jet goes, the motor came with an altitude kit with two jets. If I put one of those on it, do you think that will be the same or should I just enlarge the original jets?


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

And I should mention, as I'm sure some of you noticed, but this is not a 100% restoration...yet. There are still some parts that need work. I bought one can of the real Ariens Orange spray paint ($16 later...) and there are a few areas that didn't get repainted (wheels, tractor portion of the blower, the gear shifter, and some of the hardware. I wishfully hope to get it completely finished by the end of the month, but I have a feeling it may have to wait until spring. Time will tell


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

SlowRider22 said:


> That's great, you're blower is tossing that deep snow without hesitation.
> 
> As far as the jet goes, the motor came with an altitude kit with two jets. If I put one of those on it, do you think that will be the same or should I just enlarge the original jets?


The jet would need to have larger passage. For high altitude you would actually need a smaller jet. I just enlarged my stock jet a slight amount and it runs great when it is cold out.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

GustoGuy said:


> The jet would need to have larger passage. For high altitude you would actually need a smaller jet. I just enlarged my stock jet a slight amount and it runs great when it is cold out.


Oh ok, thanks for clearing that up. I'll be sure to take the jet out this week and enlarge its bore. I have very small diameter drill bits that I'll try first, if that doesn't work then I'll try your method


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I used files for cleaning torch tips on mine.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Shryp said:


> I used files for cleaning torch tips on mine.


Another great idea. I'll be sure to remember that one, too. Thanks Shryp


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

SlowRider22 said:


> Another great idea. I'll be sure to remember that one, too. Thanks Shryp


Yes the torch tips brushes and files work good too. Remember to just enlarge it a tiny amount at a time or it will run pig rich and you will need to get another jet. I tried a few times and judged how well it was running before I decided to stay with what I did. I replaced the stock air box on my PWC back in 2008 with Prok and I had to re-jet too. Ironically the 1 jet size higher ran too rich so I modified the jet until I had it running real good. That is were I hone my skills on modding a high speed jet. I would put the choke on just a bit to see if it would run better and once you need to no longer pull the choke to see an improvement in its running your all done with the re-jetting.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Well I finally put on my impeller kit. I ordered a sheet of 3/16 rubber from my local grainger; however they did not have any samples that was able to look at, so I pretty much ordered on a whim. I got commercial grade neoprene, but it's quite soft so I'm not sure how long it will last. Along with the hardware I bought, it cost me $11.

And my drive belt came in over the weekend, too, so I was able to fire it up and feel its power. With the 1/2 inch larger pulley now, this machine moves so fast and the power feels incredible. 

There is a slight snag that I came across though...the belt I ordered is a 39 inch and it barely fit onto the pulleys. It's tight enough to where I don't need the idler pulley. Because of the higher RPMs from the new pulley, and the lack of disengaging the belt drive, the coupler from the auger won't mesh with the other coupler.
Long story short, I have to buy a larger belt


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

SlowRider22 said:


> Well I finally put on my impeller kit. I ordered a sheet of 3/16 rubber from my local grainger; however they did not have any samples that was able to look at, so I pretty much ordered on a whim. I got commercial grade neoprene, but it's quite soft so I'm not sure how long it will last. Along with the hardware I bought, it cost me $11.


When you're ready for the next impeller kit, if you want stiffer rubber, you can try your local farm supply store (TSC, Fleet Farm etc.) or your local farm implement dealer like John Deere, New Holland or any of those. Ask for baler belting. It's sold by the foot and they use it in the machines that make those big round hay or straw bales that you see in the fields.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Blue Hill said:


> When you're ready for the next impeller kit, if you want stiffer rubber, you can try your local farm supply store (TSC, Fleet Farm etc.) or your local farm implement dealer like John Deere, New Holland or any of those. Ask for baler belting. It's sold by the foot and they use it in the machines that make those big round hay or straw bales that you see in the fields.


Funny you mention that. During the time that I've been on this forum, I have seen many people mention that material and how great it is. For whatever reason, I completely forgot about that come time to actually buy the rubber. 
But yes, thanks for that. I'll be sure to get that next time


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

SlowRider22 said:


> Funny you mention that. During the time that I've been on this forum, I have seen many people mention that material and how great it is. For whatever reason, I completely forgot about that come time to actually buy the rubber.
> But yes, thanks for that. I'll be sure to get that next time


 Here is what I did and I have pictures too
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...adding-homemade-impeller-kit-my-1996-mtd.html


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Earlier I was working on the blower, I took out the main jet of the carburetor and re-jetted it. I made a paste from powdered lapping compound and a couple drops of oil, and used sewing needles to apply the paste and wear down the jet. Before the re-jet the motor hunted slightly at full throttle, now it runs perfectly.

Unfortunately, I hit what seems to be a significant problem. When I ran the engine to test a new belt I had (belt cover off), I noticed sparks...Yes, sparks were flying. Mind you the engine was running for hardly a minute. What happened was that the driven sheave started to unthread itself off the shaft/bolt and was rubbing against the lever that engages the auger and started throwing sparks. 

Being a student, I have term papers and project due so those are my priorities for the time being, and did not further investigate this issue. From what I understand, the sheave is connected onto a bolt or threaded shaft, but I didn't really look to see how it is supposed to be secured. I'm hoping going to have some spare time to take it apart this week.
If anyone can offer some insight, that'd be way cool


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Did you ever resolve the sheave issue?


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

db130 said:


> Did you ever resolve the sheave issue?


yes i did. What happened was the sheave unthreaded itself when left in neutral with the auger engaged. What i did was just put a tack weld to hold the sheave onto the shaft. Oh yeah, and i dont leave it in neutral with the auger on anymore.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

have you gotten a chance to try it in some snow


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

detdrbuzzard said:


> have you gotten a chance to try it in some snow


OF COURSE haha! It's incredible, doesn't bog down at all, throws snow stupid far.
Whenever I'm out snowblowing and there are other people around using their blower or shoveling, I always set the chute so it shoots the snow the highest and farthest it can...I want people to know I don't mess around with the snow and that I have the best blower on the block haha

I don't have a smart phone or a video camera to record my snow adventures with it my self, but I'm working on trying to get someone who does to take a clip of that monster in action


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Well folks, I think I might have to retire this blower for the rest of the season. Aside from the small issues I've had with it, something else just went wrong. The gearbox just got messed up. The impeller spins but the augers are not spinning anymore. The worst storm we are probably going to have this season, and this goes and happens.
Oh well, just means I have to rebuild it bigger and better for next year


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

That sucks. Sometimes the gears go bad, but I hear the occasional report that the roll pin broke off and that is all that is wrong.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Shryp said:


> That sucks. Sometimes the gears go bad, but I hear the occasional report that the roll pin broke off and that is all that is wrong.


That's actually what I began to think of what might have happened to it, the pin coming loose. I'll be able to check.it out this weekend


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Let's hope for a pin, it's a nice machine and you don't really need the hassle of going bigger and badder due to a failed gearbox.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

SlowRider22 said:


> That's actually what I began to think of what might have happened to it, the pin coming loose. I'll be able to check.it out this weekend


I have heard you can check and replace the pin through the oil fill hole if you tip the machine back on the handles. That should save yourself the hassle of taking everything apart maybe. If it was me I would still feel better taking it apart to make sure there wasn't little pieces of the old pin in there though.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Well I finally fixed thing into top condition. It was, in fact, just a broken pin inside the gearbox. I took it all apart, removed the fragments of the old pin replaced it...quite an easy fix. Aside from that, I also made new brackets that connect the bucket to the engine assembly. New angle iron, I welded on some extra stock onto half of the new angle iron and then tapped the hole for a 3/8-16 bolt. That extra metal that I added is so I had more metal to create threads on for the bolts.
And this is something that I should have done originally when I was first restoring the machine but since I had it all apart I also changed all the original hardware with new stainless steel hardware


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

hey slow ride what did you do with that 1132 toro u got???????????


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

Slowrider.. I've had good results cleaning over-spray paint off decals with plain old gas on a rag. little scrbbing but it don't mess the lettering up. just do it with caution so as not to over do it. Carb cleaner is a no-no. -Geno (love your machine!)


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Just found this thread. Wow. Awesome work! Looks like a fantastic machine, which ought to handily beat most other blowers  Thanks for documenting it this well, it's a very interesting read. 

I think the idea of going to a larger auger pulley on the engine during an engine upgrade is a great one. You'll get much better snow-moving performance. And, almost paradoxically, it might be easier on the auger gearbox, as the larger pulley will reduce the torque the engine can send to it. Keeping it a little closer to what it was originally expected to handle. 

As long as it's not bothered by the impeller and augers turning faster, it seems like a win-win. Unless you deal with super-heavy snow, where you may want that extra torque.


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## CAPTAINCONSUMER (Feb 18, 2011)

Did you have to re-route the chute control rod? Any pics of that?

Nice job.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

CAPTAINCONSUMER said:


> Did you have to re-route the chute control rod? Any pics of that?
> 
> Nice job.


Sorry it took me this long to respond to you, I never saw the notification.
I don't have any pics of it, but I did have to move it slightly. What I had to do was drill through the handlebars in a new location and just used 1/4 inch eye bolt to secure the chute control rod. Very simple and easy


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

cool looking machine! any plans on going with a taller chute? did you need to re-jet the stock carb or build a hearter box?

ive a 33in columbia i may do a simillar mod up with.. so your pics are very helpfull even if we dont have the same brand at all.. great ideas..


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Marty013 said:


> cool looking machine! any plans on going with a taller chute? did you need to re-jet the stock carb or build a hearter box?
> 
> ive a 33in columbia i may do a simillar mod up with.. so your pics are very helpfull even if we dont have the same brand at all.. great ideas..


With the throwing distance this machine has, a taller chute really isn't necessary. But if I happen to find a tall chute for cheap then I may go for that modification, as well.

I did rejet the carb slightly, but I don't recall what size I did.
I want a heater box, but mainly for the throttle and governor linkages. The only drawback to these predator engines is that in wintry conditions, those linkages can freeze up.

At any rate, I'm glad that this thread was of use to you.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Well folks, I took the blower out during the past week and began to prep her for the upcoming season. 
I drained out the old oil, which happen to still be quite clean, but I like to be sure to take care of my equipment. I'm trying out Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended Performance this year. I don't really expect much more than the regular synthetic that I've used, but I had some extra quarts laying around from a few oil changes I did during the summer months. 

Other than that, I discovered a new issue. When the augers are engaged, there is some type of knock, and I couldn't figure it out for the entire week. If you happen to have read an earlier post of mine in this thread I mentioned that I cut off the old brackets that hold the bucket and chassis together and welded newer, and heavier-duty brackets. Turns out that I did not properly align the new brackets correctly, they are both out of their original locations by about a 1/4 inch. This caused the two couplers to not perfectly line up, thereby causing the knocking. I didn't notice this originally because I don't recall it snowing after I had welded the new brackets on, so the blower was needed.

So this weekend I'll be cutting off the old ones and re-welding them into their correct spots.

Oh yeah, I should mention...can't wait to toss some snow


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## WalkThisWhey (Feb 15, 2017)

Came across this thread and this is exactly what I want to do to my 1973 Ariens 32" bucket. The 8hp motor is very tired and underpowered and I'd love to put the 13hp motor on it. Do you have a guide for doing it? I don't trust myself to make an accurate mounting bracket.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

WalkThisWhey said:


> Came across this thread and this is exactly what I want to do to my 1973 Ariens 32" bucket. The 8hp motor is very tired and underpowered and I'd love to put the 13hp motor on it. Do you have a guide for doing it? I don't trust myself to make an accurate mounting bracket.


Thanks for taking a look, Whey! I'm glad my thread inspired you to take on a new project. The 420cc Predator is a great motor...much more power and torque. However there are other great motors that can also be used.

As for the guide you're inquiring about, I'm not too sure what you're referring to. My thread has a basic outline of what and how I did it. I'd love to shed some light with you, as most of the other members here :smile2:

Other than that, I encourage taking on this project...it's fun to do the work yourself and to reap the benefits of an incredible machine


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