# Toro 2500 Start problem



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Picked up a toro 2500 gts that the previous owner said would not start.

1. checked plug......good spark.

2. put new fresh fuel

3. took bowl off , fuel IS getting to carb. cleaned out carb and took out jets and cleaned out.

still would not start. 

4. took plug out and poured 2 tablespoons of fuel in and then it started right up. I ran for about 5 minutes. It seems to run good but just a hint of roughness every few seconds.

maybe I have to take carb off and do a complete cleaning???

also it smokes a little. is this common for a 2 cycle?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Everyone on this forum who doesn't their own maintenance should own a carb dip cleaner. That's what you need to do a thorough carb cleaning. For 2 cycle oil I use synthetic as it lubricates better thus you use a leaner mix thus less smoke.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Everyone on this forum who doesn't their own maintenance should own a carb dip cleaner. That's what you need to do a thorough carb cleaning. For 2 cycle oil I use synthetic as it lubricates better thus you use a leaner mix thus less smoke.


how do you prepare the carb for dip cleaning? do you have to take certain parts off? and how long show it be sitting in it?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

What model (...... 3842?....)? Looks like they had both Briggs and Tec during the 2500 GTS series.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

jtclays said:


> What model (...... 3842?....)? Looks like they had both Briggs and Tec during the 2500 GTS series.


I'll post model tomorrow. time for bed.

I hope putting some seafoam in mixed gas is ok. I'll run it tomorrow longer and see if it runs smoother. otherwise I'll have to take carb off for a complete cleaning.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Well, looks like they had 10 model numbers over three years of the 2500. Only two carbs, either Briggs plastic, or Tecumseh metal. Since you didn't mention plastic, we'll assume Tec carb 632751. It'll be very similar to this carb for cleaning.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_640342.asp
Very basic carb. Assuming you cleared the tiny hole in the bowl nut threads?(pic #8) Note to check the atmospheric vent (pic #19) on the left side. It's a pressed in plastic piece with a wee little hole in it (a wire pulled from a wire wheel will fit inside it to clear). Make sure somebody prior to you didn't push it all the way into the carb body, they will run when this happens but not well. Also note the idle fuel pickup hole that is hidden inside the main stalk (pic #9). Run a wire through the other noted vents too. If the orings on the nozzle tube are hard or flattened you'll need new. Those Tec 2 strokes are VERY finicky about extra air in my experience. You can super double extra clean and ultrasonic the carb and still run and start poorly if a gasket is bad. The ones between the carb body/insulator and block usually need to be replaced because they get distorted and rarely go back the same if reused. Any crust or corrosion around the bowl gasket won't fly either. Pull the exhaust and look to see if the port is carboned up. Pull the recoil to watch the piston skirt come up to cover the cylinder if you do have to pick some growth out of there. Make sure the head bolts are snug. If it still runs like crap after that spray some carb cleaner behind the engine sheave while it's running poorly and see if the engine changes tune. The crank seals can go and the whole carb cleaning is a waste of time.
If none of that works, drill out the bowl nut jet a little tiny bigger (pic #7). Still sucks, ebay aftermarket carb (or should that have been step one?):grin:
If it is a Briggs plastic carb, it's usually the pilot jet that's hidden behind the carb model number sticker on the side.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Everyone on this forum who does their own maintenance should own a carb dip cleaner..


Or an ultrasonic cleaner which I like better. We use that at work to clean car's carburetors as well and it does a great job. :smile2:

I use Simple Green Pro HD and water (50/50) as a cleaning solution.

Simple Green Pro HD 128 oz. Professional-Grade Heavy-Duty Cleaner (Case of 4)-2110000413421 - The Home Depot


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> how do you prepare the carb for dip cleaning? do you have to take certain parts off? and how long show it be sitting in it?


Do a search for my post on carb cleaning. I wish it was made into a sticky post.

Everything comes apart and anything with holes gets dipped. I leave it for 4 hours but have done less and more, after rinse with water. A carb dip is $25 and will last for years. Needle valves I dip then clean with fine steel wool. It's preferable to remove the Welch plugs though not always necessary.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> I'll post model tomorrow. time for bed.
> 
> I hope putting some seafoam in mixed gas is ok. I'll run it tomorrow longer and see if it runs smoother. otherwise I'll have to take carb off for a complete cleaning.


they usually need a complete cleaning the toro carbs are pretty simple. just make sure the idle circuit is cleaned well get in the little holes with a wire or it will be a headache. make sure the float is adjusted correctly as well that could be the problem as well.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> I'll post model tomorrow. time for bed.
> 
> I hope putting some seafoam in mixed gas is ok. I'll run it tomorrow longer and see if it runs smoother. otherwise I'll have to take carb off for a complete cleaning.


If your carb needs Seafoam, it needs disassembly. My feeling about carb cleaners is they should be used as an additive for prevention. Unlike a car which runs for tens of hours and hundreds with a pressurized system giving a carb cleaner time to work. A small engine is a drip system and only runs for minutes or hours which does not give it time for cleaning. In the meantime while waiting for it to work you have to endure poor performance when you need it!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

jtclays said:


> Well, looks like they had 10 model numbers over three years of the 2500. Only two carbs, either Briggs plastic, or Tecumseh metal. Since you didn't mention plastic, we'll assume Tec carb 632751. It'll be very similar to this carb for cleaning.
> Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh Carb 640342 on a Sears 143.025071 Engine
> Very basic carb. Assuming you cleared the tiny hole in the bowl nut threads?(pic #8) Note to check the atmospheric vent (pic #19) on the left side. It's a pressed in plastic piece with a wee little hole in it (a wire pulled from a wire wheel will fit inside it to clear). Make sure somebody prior to you didn't push it all the way into the carb body, they will run when this happens but not well. Also note the idle fuel pickup hole that is hidden inside the main stalk (pic #9). Run a wire through the other noted vents too. If the orings on the nozzle tube are hard or flattened you'll need new. Those Tec 2 strokes are VERY finicky about extra air in my experience. You can super double extra clean and ultrasonic the carb and still run and start poorly if a gasket is bad. The ones between the carb body/insulator and block usually need to be replaced because they get distorted and rarely go back the same if reused. Any crust or corrosion around the bowl gasket won't fly either. Pull the exhaust and look to see if the port is carboned up. Pull the recoil to watch the piston skirt come up to cover the cylinder if you do have to pick some growth out of there. Make sure the head bolts are snug. If it still runs like crap after that spray some carb cleaner behind the engine sheave while it's running poorly and see if the engine changes tune. The crank seals can go and the whole carb cleaning is a waste of time.
> If none of that works, drill out the bowl nut jet a little tiny bigger (pic #7). Still sucks, ebay aftermarket carb (or should that have been step one?):grin:
> If it is a Briggs plastic carb, it's usually the pilot jet that's hidden behind the carb model number sticker on the side.


it's all plastic and looks pretty simple. I have it all apart and am cleaning it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Snowbelt_subie said:


> they usually need a complete cleaning the toro carbs are pretty simple. just make sure the idle circuit is cleaned well get in the little holes with a wire or it will be a headache. make sure the float is adjusted correctly as well that could be the problem as well.


have everything clean now and ready to put back together. how do you determine proper float adjustment? I know pretty much what it is on my Honda's. is it about the same for this one?

that may have been the problem because when I took the plug out it was wet. How do you adjust the float or do you have to replace float and needle valve , etc?


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> have everything clean now and ready to put back together. how do you determine proper float adjustment? I know pretty much what it is on my Honda's. is it about the same for this one?
> 
> that may have been the problem because when I took the plug out it was wet. How do you adjust the float or do you have to replace float and needle valve , etc?




actually i think i had the same problem on one that was leaking gas out of the carb of a plastic one. does it have a foam float? if you go as a general rule of thumb it should be parallel to the carb when you flip it upside down and the float tab is sitting on the needle. if i remember correctly i think i had to adjust this one ( you adjust by bending the float tab gently ) past parallel on the bowl side to make sure it was closing the needle.

a way to check to see if you need a needle is to blow in the gas inlet once you get the carb all back together. it should flow good then flip the carb upside down you shouldnt be able to blow through not even a little bit. if you can then it will for sure leak gas


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Snowbelt_subie said:


> actually i think i had the same problem on one that was leaking gas out of the carb of a plastic one. does it have a foam float? if you go as a general rule of thumb it should be parallel to the carb when you flip it upside down and the float tab is sitting on the needle. if i remember correctly i think i had to adjust this one ( you adjust by bending the float tab gently ) past parallel on the bowl side to make sure it was closing the needle.
> 
> a way to check to see if you need a needle is to blow in the gas inlet once you get the carb all back together. it should flow good then flip the carb upside down you shouldnt be able to blow through not even a little bit. if you can then it will for sure leak gas


yes, it does have a foam float. i'll try your suggestions right now. thanks.

ok. put everything back together and I don't think i have to adjust float. right side up i can blow thru but upside down can't.

what is that small brass screw that goes into the side? it has 2 small holes on the shaft and one at the end . I blew in it and nothing. then sprayed carb cleaner, blew it out with compressed air and then blew in the end and the air came out of the side holes. hopefully that helps.

edit. head of screw has 47.5 on it .

i'll reinstall tomorrow and give it a try.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> yes, it does have a foam float. i'll try your suggestions right now. thanks.
> 
> ok. put everything back together and I don't think i have to adjust float. right side up i can blow thru but upside down can't.
> 
> ...


i believe that might be an air passage only jet sometimes they get plugged as well if its blocked it will mess with the idle circuit. it seems that might have been the problem. so what are you going to do with the Toro once you get it running ?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

orangputeh said:


> what is that small brass screw that goes into the side? it has 2 small holes on the shaft and one at the end . I blew in it and nothing. then sprayed carb cleaner, blew it out with compressed air and then blew in the end and the air came out of the side holes. hopefully that helps.
> edit. head of screw has 47.5 on it .


Post #6 in this thread:wink2:



jtclays said:


> If it is a Briggs plastic carb, it's usually the pilot jet that's hidden behind the carb model number sticker on the side.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Snowbelt_subie said:


> i believe that might be an air passage only jet sometimes they get plugged as well if its blocked it will mess with the idle circuit. it seems that might have been the problem. so what are you going to do with the Toro once you get it running ?


use it for my deck probably.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

jtclays said:


> Post #6 in this thread:wink2:


golden.

thanks. will be back with update after I try it out.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> golden.
> 
> thanks. will be back with update after I try it out.


sweet hope it runs well


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

have not put it back on yet. all the "honey do's" are piling up. I am working more now than when I was working for the man.

I promise I'll come back with an update as soon as I can. this heatwave ain't helping things.


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