# Bolting motor directly to body



## bk7794 (Sep 14, 2015)

I recently acquired a Toro 7HP Blower...the model number escapes me at this moment... The motor was blown when I got it so I went out and got a pretty good deal on a Predator motor from Harbor Freight. I wanted to give them a try and I figured why not. I installed it and it all seems to work. 

My big question is would it be OK to mount it to the frame of the blower? The original motor was sitting on a plate of some sort. I currently have nylon lock nuts with washers holding the motor to frame. Thoughts? 

Should I put any rubber insulators in between the motor and frame? I fear of the motor possibly ripping the frame apart.


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

the frame will be fine but it is 100% necessary to have that riser plate. without the blowing and drive speeds will be screwed up and the belts wont fit. hope you still have that riser


----------



## bk7794 (Sep 14, 2015)

Ah, thank you for the quick response. I see we're CT neighbors. Live in the next town over. 

This is what I found though, the belt was already pretty tight for the drive wheels and the augers has a tensioner pulley. I also found the motor could be taller than the original Tecumseh? 

Only issue is the riser plate is a bit off in terms of the hole pattern. Might be able to make something work maybe. Drill some new holes using something for risers.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You should be fine. I think the riser plate was only used because a lot of the old engines has a flat piece of steel for the mount vs the 1/2" block like the new engines. The worst I can think is you would need shorter belts or modify the belt cover slightly. If everything fits just leave it.


----------



## bk7794 (Sep 14, 2015)

Amazingly enough I think the belts are too short possibly. I had to stretch the inner belt (Not the auger belt), a good amount to get it on the shaft. I believe it must have a tensioner because the pulley lifted up and down like it was on a spring. 

Auger belt seemed ok. Auger moves and everything.


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

maybe im wrong and it will be fine. get the belts sized up a bit at napa


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

With new belts make sure the idlers are adjusted in so you get some life out of the belts and there's room to take up slack in the future as they age and stretch.


----------



## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

Did you by the 212cc or 301cc?? The shaft on 212cc should be the same height as the original, but if I remember correctly the pto on the 301cc is a bit higher


----------



## bk7794 (Sep 14, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> With new belts make sure the idlers are adjusted in so you get some life out of the belts and there's room to take up slack in the future as they age and stretch.


The belt that drives the wheels was definitely tight. Idler actually seemed to line up as well. Should take one more look at it and make sure everything is good.




HJames said:


> Did you by the 212cc or 301cc?? The shaft on 212cc should be the same height as the original, but if I remember correctly the pto on the 301cc is a bit higher


I got the 212cc engine. I'll have to measure.

Other than belt dimensions, do I have to fear with ripping the nuts out from the frame?


----------



## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

bk7794 said:


> Amazingly enough I think the belts are too short possibly. I had to stretch the inner belt (Not the auger belt), a good amount to get it on the shaft. I believe it must have a tensioner because the pulley lifted up and down like it was on a spring.
> 
> Auger belt seemed ok. Auger moves and everything.


 just make sure they are fractional HP Belts. not auto belts of any sort.


----------



## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

The plate is only used as a spacer to make up the difference in height between a Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engine so the same belts could be used by either. The Tecumseh is about half an inch shorter from the base to crank.


----------



## bk7794 (Sep 14, 2015)

Great, so the plate isn't there for any structural integrity whatsoever? 

Should I fear the motor ripping the body apart? 

Thanks for the tip on the belts.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That 212 is just fine on that Toro. It's not going to rip up anything.


----------



## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

bk7794 said:


> Great, so the plate isn't there for any structural integrity whatsoever?


Exactly. Any time you see an older machine that came with a flathead B&S engine you'll notice they never came with spacer plate.



bk7794 said:


> Should I fear the motor ripping the body apart?


Nope. 



bk7794 said:


> Thanks for the tip on the belts.


That's really not a very good tip. Using _fractional_ hp belts on something making _multiple_ hp leads to a lot of broken belts. Go to your local small engine shop and buy proper Kevlar belts for your machine, they don't have to be OEM, but they should be a proper outdoor power equipment belt designed to fit your machine. I've seen a lot of guys try to run something they found at the local industrial supply shop because it was half the money only to break several and then come in wondering why their machine kept breaking belts.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

This one is always a little murky but there are automotive belts that are kept tight and designed to drive without slipping. Slipping for these "automotive" belts generates excessive heat and greatly shortens their life. In an emergency you can grab one for a lawn mower, rider, snowblower but you will likely be lucky to finish the yard or driveway before it goes up in smoke.
The lawn and garden belts are made to survive slipping like when the tension is released so the mower, rider or snowblower is in neutral.
A true fractional HP belt is designed for 1hp or less. It's also a common name for the lawn and garden belts. I've used PowerRated but that term is actually like "Crescent" wrench. It does describe the belt but it's a particular manufacturers trademarked name for it.
As for Kevlar, it's a good thing but kevlar is also used in some automotive applications so Kevlar alone doesn't tell you what kind of belt you're getting.
I get lawn and garden Gates belts at Oreilley because they are convenient. I know what I'm looking for and there have been times even though I asked for a lawn and garden they brought out an automotive one because it's just habit. I usually look it up first so I have the correct part number, cuts down on mistakes.


----------

