# Replace Tecumseh HMSK105-159908C



## Dohh-man

Hi all,
Brand new and looking for help.
I have (had) Yard Machine by MTD 10Hp/26" electric start blower
(engine really 10.5Hp i.e. HMSK105-159908C) and I grabbed the wrong 
oil (SAE30 and not 5W30) and put it in my blower. The result was a hole
in the side of my engine (see picture and my log in name Dohh! Man!)
So the question is what to do? Cant find the 10.5Hp engine but there are some new HMSK100 around but pricey. Used ones come up once and awhile but not too plentiful so I was thinking (always dangerous) could I replace with a short block. 



. This depends on everything on my engine can fit on this. Would value your suggestions and any ideas. My head hurts every time I try and match up part numbers with engines.

Thanks
Dohh-man


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## Shryp

As long as your flywheel fits you could probably use the shortblock. That will be a lot of if work though.

As for the oil types, I don't think the thicker oil would make a huge difference unless it was really cold in your area. Was it typically below 32 degrees and was your blower stored in an unheated space? Might not have been anything you did so don't beat yourself up over it.

As for replacement engines, you might be able to get away with one of the 212cc Predator $99 engines from Harbor Freight. Most people use them for up to 24" blowers, but a few people have stuck them on 26" blowers and say it works fine as long as you don't push things too hard. They are only rated for around 6.5 - 7HP, but they do have a lot of torque compared to the older flatheads.

The first thing to do is look at your old engine. Some of them had 2 shafts coming out the front and some only had one. Most new engines that you buy are only 1 shaft, so if your old one was a 2 shaft engine it will be a lot more work switching it over.


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## Dohh-man

Thanks for the reply Shryp,

This happen during a snow storm and dropped two feet of snow. I had cleaned off a small part of my driveway when it blew up. This was late in the season so the only "cheap" snow blower I could find was a small Honda which I paid almost the same amount for the MTD. 

I read several post on replacement with the 212cc Predator but they were 5.5Hp engines. My owners manual is for 8-12 Hp engines and I remember something about the block size changes between 7 and 8. I have 3 sets of pulleys on my engine but only one shaft (see picture)


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## motorhead64

Hi Dohh-man
Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your 10.5 Tecumseh. I seriously doubt the cause was your choice of oil. The 10 class have a rep for throwing rods. I would not go the short block route unless you are fond of the challenge. I would look for a suitable replacement engine on Craigs, or for a used replacement blower. Summer prices should land you a decent running machine for 100 bucks or so. MH


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## Shryp

You have 2 shafts on your engine. I can see them right there. The larger shaft has 2 belts for the auger and the smaller shaft has 1 belt for the wheels. Unfortunately an engine swap is going to bit a bit of trouble for you. 

I swapped an HM80 for a 212 Predator and it fit right on.

Your other option besides finding a 2 shaft engine would be to find a single shaft Tecumseh of the same type and switch the front cover and cam shaft from your old engine onto the new engine.

I agree with motorhead and think your time and money might be better spent looking for a different blower all together. MTD is known as a lower quality and cheaper built machine so you a bit of money you might get a blower that works a bit better for you.


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## GustoGuy

It can be done if you can handle doing a bit of modification to your machine. I swapped a 2 shaft 5hp Tecumseh out for a single shaft Predator engine and yes it was a bit of work. I flipped the gear and the pick up wheel to the otherside and got a larger diameter friction plate to slow down the machine as well since the cam shaft runs at half the speed of the crank shaft. It was a fair amount of work unlike my repowered Gilson made Montgomery Ward with a single shaft Briggs 8hp which I just put the 212cc engine on and blew snow. As to hp I have a HF Predator 212cc on a 26 inch width Montgomery Ward (Gilson) 8/26 and it can handle it very well. The new OHV engines make more power per cc than the old flat heads engines and can usually handle up to a 26 inch width. Like Shyrp said I would not go at a real high rate of speed in the deep snow but my Predator easily out powered the poor running Briggs 8hp flat head. I would buy the 301cc HF Predator for $249 if you want to have a more robust machine. Or put a 420cc on and it would be a beast


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## UNDERTAKER

ALOHA to the forms. good luck with that project..


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## detdrbuzzard

hello dohh-man, welcome to *SBF!!* if it were me I would get a good used machine and put the mtd aside until I found a motor ( new or used ) for it


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## Dohh-man

Thanks everyone for your ideas and suggestions.
Yes I do have 2 shafts on my engine (wish full thinking on my part for only one)
Since I have just enough skill with repairing these things to get into trouble, I think I will have to wait until an exact match becomes available. Thanks again, you help me not purchase something which would not have worked for me without a major career change.


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## Dohh-man

I'm baaack...

OK doing some thinking on my golden thrown an found this item on ebay. (spend way too much time on the thrown and ebay)





 
Which is a B&S 7.5 hp engine with two shafts. I have not measured my old shafts yet but know the B&S main shaft is different from my *Tecumseh*. Kind of hoping to get away with a "drop in and go" Anyone played with this type of engine swap. Would this be a "newer" style of engine with more power compared to the old one (i.e. old flat heads engines vs Predator engine ) Thanks again for your help.

Dohh-man


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## Dohh-man

Dohh!

wrong link, see correct below (the one listed above is a single shaft engine)





 
Sorry for the spam.
Dohh-man


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## UNDERTAKER

WHICH engine are u getting????????????????


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## Dohh-man

the last one I posted (maybe) 7.5 hp


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## Fred9

Did you look at this site?

Brand New Engines | Briggs & Stratton Horizontal Snow Engine 8 TP 3/4" x 2-27/64" #12D312-0507 (12A116-0141)


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## Dohh-man

Thanks Fred9 for the response but that engine appears to have only one shaft and I need two(one for auger and the other for wheels) to replace my OEM engine. (Don't have the talent that GustoGuy has)


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## Dohh-man

Ok $500 for a New B&S with a PTO and the placement of the PTO is different than Tecumseh, so another option I found was a used short block HMSK80 with PTO($125) Question can I just take flywheel carb muffler etc from my HMSK105, bolt on to short block and get this puppy barking? How close are the parts from each engine?


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## Dohh-man

OK, found a HMSK105-159908B on ebay for ~$250. Pulled the trigger and got it.
Little older and rustier but started right up when I put fresh oil and gas in it. My only problem was when I went to bolt it on my frame, found two snapped off bolts in motor mount (Grrrrrr) so now I am faced with trying to extract the bolts or drill out.

Any preferences ? (I have an extractor from Lowes but not 100% success rate when used)

Also as I have jumped back into Tecumseh world, I have a question to the forum.
Given a lot of issues with Tecumseh engines giving up the ghost ( as mine did ) what if anything, can I do to baby this oldie but hopefully goodie "new" engine so it does not give up the ghost. (i.e. royal purple syn oil, run super instead of regular....)
OR if you got the bad rod, your engine is going to give it up (ghost)

Thanks for your suggestions and thoughts


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## Grunt

Are the bolts snapped off on the tractor section? If so, they are usually welded from the inside and should push right through with a FEW good smacks with a ball peen hammer. Then you put new bolts in.

Get a tachometer and make sure the engine RPM's are a max of 3200 to 3400.


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## UNDERTAKER

Grunt said:


> Are the bolts snapped off on the tractor section? If so, they are usually welded from the inside and should push right through with a FEW good smacks with a ball peen hammer. Then you put new bolts in.
> 
> Get a tachometer and make sure the engine RPM's are a max of 3200 to 3400.


 that GRUNT GUY sure does know his STUFF.


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## Dohh-man

Grunt said:


> Are the bolts snapped off on the tractor section? If so, they are usually welded from the inside and should push right through with a FEW good smacks with a ball peen hammer. Then you put new bolts in.
> 
> Get a tachometer and make sure the engine RPM's are a max of 3200 to 3400.


I wish Grunt. No, they snapped off inside the engine side .
I have drilled out the bolts and tried my extractor but no joy either.
I am thinking about getting the tap and see if I can re-carve the threads but don't have any starting threads so most likely will end up drilling it out completely and put larger bolt, nut, washer and lock washer.

Good idea about the tachometer ( hadn't thought of that  )


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## Dohh-man

And the hits keep coming...
Snapped off the tap just as I was almost at the end!

Anyone got a trick to remove a tap from the hole?

Just going to drill out the other hole and be done with it!!!!
(the top of the engine where the bolts come out for mounting is not flat so may have to grind down a little....)


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## Grunt

Being that the tap broke off in a blind hole in an aluminum casting, your pretty much screwed. They do sell tap extractors which will work maybe 25 % of the time. You could have used a pin punch and cracked the tap into removable pieces if it were in a steel assembly.


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## Dohh-man

Grunt said:


> Being that the tap broke off in a blind hole in an aluminum casting, your pretty much screwed. They do sell tap extractors which will work maybe 25 % of the time. You could have used a pin punch and cracked the tap into removable pieces if it were in a steel assembly.


Thanks Grunt,
I was able to use a punch to back out the tap (reached in from under and pounded on it for a few hours and dripping with sweat right now)
and drill out the hole. My "new" old engine is now bolted to the frame and barking loudly. I still have to pick up a tachometer to check rpms but auger works as well as forward and reverse  Just as loud and nasty as the original. 

Thanks to everyone for their help.
Much Gratitude!

Dohh-man with a smile.....

PS
Would still be interested in methods for babying my new machine....
If I could get 10 years out of it, I would be happy with the $$$ and all the swearing I did putting it together


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## Grunt

Sorry buddy, I thought you broke a bolt off in the side cover. Glad to hear it was a pass through hole and you were able to use your skills and patience to correct the problem. Great job.


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## screedman285

Hello everyone, I'm new to the world of snowblowers but here is my TRS 32 with a Tecumseh HMSK100 picked it up for $100

I'm looking for suggestions for a new motor if this ole gal decides to puke.

On a side note: 

Just put a new carb & gas line on, Everything seems to work as it should. 
New belts will be in tomorrow. 










Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk


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## Motor City

There really isn't much choice for an alternative replacement for those engines. You could try retro fitting a higher HP Harbor Freight motor, but I haven't seen it tried on here, that I recall. I'd use the machine until it dies and either locate another Tecumseh motor, or replace the machine.


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## grouseman

Don't feel bad. I had almost the same thing happen and I was using the proper 5W30 oil.

Here are the details. 13 year old MTD snow blower with 8 HP Tecumseh engine in it. Went to start it and the electric starter just spun and grinded. Removed starter and found old gear stripped. Installed new gear. Took cover plate off engine and found and removed broken old starter gear teeth. Blew it all out. Tried electric start but still didn't seem to engage. Pulled on manual start and it fired right up. Ran for about three minutes and then came to an abrupt tortured stop. Smoke came out around the starter. Let it all cool down and removed starter. Found silver dollar size hole in the crankcase. Checked oil level and it was good. Went out and bought a new snow blower as any repair was beyond my capability.


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## grouseman

*Same thing happenned to me*

Don't feel bad. I had almost the same thing happen and I was using the proper 5W30 oil.

Here are the details. 13 year old MTD snow blower with 8 HP Tecumseh engine in it. Went to start it and the electric starter just spun and grinded. Removed starter and found old gear stripped. Installed new gear. Took cover plate off engine and found and removed broken old starter gear teeth. Blew it all out. Tried electric start but still didn't seem to engage. Pulled on manual start and it fired right up. Ran for about three minutes and then came to an abrupt tortured stop. Smoke came out around the starter. Let it all cool down and removed starter. Found silver dollar size hole in the crankcase. Checked oil level and it was good. Went out and bought a new snow blower as any repair was beyond my capability. 

Grouseman


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## cranman

I won't bash the Tecumsehs as I have gotten a lot of use out of them.....just never seen another brand of motor that likes to lunch the rod as much. I make sure to keep the oil level up, and I use 5-20 synthetic from Wal-mart. I would use dino for breakin but I'm usually dealing with old used engines. I dial down the governer to where it sounds like it isn't racing at top throttle....(my tach I bought didn't work, haven't gotten another), but if I had one I'd set it to 3400 RPM...a little on the low side. Then hope for the best. If it sounds like it is revving to fast, it probably is...


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