# Honda HSS928TC Oil Level (First use, dealer didn't put enough)



## KaRLiToS (Nov 21, 2014)

Today was my first experience with my snowblower. Before the first used I check the engine oil but I didn't have the user manual in hand so I took for granted that it was fine.

So after the job, I went inside and checked in the user manual to check what the oil level should be. I was really shocked to see that the level isn't even okay. It is brand new after all.

First the dealer made me buy some skid shoes for the housing because he said that the rear ones were not transfereable to the front housing. I bought some skid shoes for 64$ and then the day after I found out about the Commercial ones for 51$ on Honda web site. 

It is clearly written in the user manual about the skid shoes.










Second, he forgot to gave me my user manual so I had to run after him. And he never gave me this Yellow copy we are suppose to receive according to this *Set-UP MANUAL*











And now, the oil level isn't even set correctly, refer to the image below to see where the level is set. According to me, this is unacceptable. 










I have to go see them Friday for my commercial grade skid shoes. Will exchange the cheap one he sold me for a crazy price. *But for now I need some oil and I don't want to see their faces again.*

*Can someone help me find good oil at English | Canadian Tire ?*

Sorry for the rant, but after paying 3900$ with tax for a snowblower, I am suppose to receive mint service, which I don't think I received.


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## KaRLiToS (Nov 21, 2014)

Is this good for my blower?

G-Oil SAE30 946 mL 4-Cycle Oil | Canadian Tire


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## pfn (Dec 24, 2010)

I'd send a letter to American Honda about the dealer. Who knows? They might do something. It can't hurt.


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## pfn (Dec 24, 2010)

I'd go with a multi-viscosity synthetic after a few hours of break-in with conventional oil. Synthetic oil will essentially eliminate internal engine wear. It's that good.


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## KaRLiToS (Nov 21, 2014)

pfn said:


> I'd go with a multi-viscosity synthetic after a few hours of break-in with conventional oil. Synthetic oil will essentially eliminate internal engine wear. It's that good.


Thanks for the answer mate. can you help me find something good at English | Canadian Tire ?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

KARLITOS for your engine break in oil just buy conventional 10w30 or 5w30 oil and don't put synthetic just yet as it it not good to to mix synth and conventional and as of now you have conventional.


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## KaRLiToS (Nov 21, 2014)

Are you sure about 10w30? Cause I have that at home!

So I cannot mix oil, so I'll have to do a oil change right away?

I'm pretty pissed off by all that.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

KaRLiToS said:


> Are you sure about 10w30? Cause I have that at home!
> 
> So I cannot mix oil, so I'll have to do a oil change right away?
> 
> I'm pretty pissed off by all that.


 Is your 10-30 regular oil? if yes just top your Honda with it and wait for the 5 hours to change to synthetic.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Can you send a pic of what you think your oil level is inadequate?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

How much snow did you get? over here 100 miles to the west my laneway is bare to asphalt.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

use 5w 30 conventional for first 5 hours(i use quaker state), then switch out to rp 5w-30 synthetic


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

KaRLiToS said:


> Are you sure about 10w30? Cause I have that at home!
> 
> So I cannot mix oil, so I'll have to do a oil change right away?
> 
> I'm pretty pissed off by all that.


 Now don't go and take it on anyone yet or your computer as I said if you can take a pic of your oil level but remember your machine must be level to check oil level.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

43128 said:


> use 5w 30 conventional for first 5 hours(i use quaker state), then switch out to rp 5w-30 synthetic


 He has 10w30 on hand so he can top off with that for the 5 hours break in.


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## KaRLiToS (Nov 21, 2014)

Normex said:


> Can you send a pic of what you think your oil level is inadequate?


Normex, I made a red line where the oil level was in the first Post


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

KaRLiToS said:


> Normex, I made a red line where the oil level was in the first Post


 Oh sorry and you have plenty oil for the break in period but if you want to add a bit more be my guest with your regular 10w30.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

10w30 is just fine to use, in either non sin or full sin.


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## KaRLiToS (Nov 21, 2014)

Ok, I went to the dealer and bought a can of 946ml of Pro Honda 5w30

I asked the owner (the one that sold me my snow blower) and I think the oil level was just a mistake.

*BUT*, I asked him what kind of maintenance he does when doing the PDI and he said, they only assemble the blower after receiving it in the create and he add some oil and some Fuel. They do absolutly nothing else except some inspection and adjustement

*They don't* do the most of the steps in this set-up manual http://www.powerequipmentdirect.com/manuals/Honda Set-Up HS928.pdf


Drain the fuel tank and the carburetor float bowl. Fill the fuel tank with fresh, unleaded 86 pump octane or higher gasoline.
Check the auger transmission oil and fill until oil runs out the drain bolt hole.
Check the hydrostatic transmission fluid level while the engine is cold.

It is no big deal honestly, I'll do those thing myself after the season.

I think I ranted to fast because of the low oil level but like Normex said, it wasn't that bad.

Overall, they were happy to see me and asked me how I liked the machine.

Sorry for my rant guys.


_____________________________

Is that good synthetic oil for my HSS928TC snowblower?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mobil-1-5w30-synthetic-motor-oil-4l-1998856p.html#.VIjHUDGG_Yw


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

yes it is good synthetic but only after the break in hours done.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

it doesnt really matter what synthetic you use but i think for about 2 bucks a quart more than that you can get royal purple, your engine will thank you 30 years from now.

Royal Purple SAE 5W30 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil, 1 qt - Walmart.com


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## KaRLiToS (Nov 21, 2014)

Walmart Canada doesn't have that BUT Canadian Tire does.

Royal Purple 5W30 Synthetic Jug | Canadian Tire

46,39$ (Usually 57,99$ CAD)

I will get one for sure. Can I put this in my lawnmower too?

I'm going to put another hour in my snowblower tonight.

Thank you all for the help.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

For your comfort breaking in oil levels are usually low. This makes the spoons on the crank splatter oil better than over fill. Just make sure you change the oil after directed amount of hours of use.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

yeah, you can, but a 10w 30 is better for a mower


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Oil level on the Honda engines is a strange item. They put a small dip stick built into the screw cap. They they tell us that the correct level is when oil run out of the fill hole.

Why put a dip stick on the cap.....?????? DUH !!!!!!


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## BigBillyBobandhisGoat (Nov 17, 2014)

well one reason would be if u have a small oil leak or burn oil, you'll be able to tell how much it dropped, it also lets u see the condition of your oil easier as u can pull and wipe it, rather than dip something into the hole and chance getting particles in there. granted these are honda motors so you shouldn't have to worry about that for a long time, but down the road those kind of things start coming in handy


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

RoyP said:


> Oil level on the Honda engines is a strange item. They put a small dip stick built into the screw cap. They they tell us that the correct level is when oil run out of the fill hole.
> 
> Why put a dip stick on the cap.....?????? DUH !!!!!!


The dipstick is used to see if the oil level is within the prescribed limits; here's a little more detail from the shop manual:










The tip of the dipstick has a raised crosshatch pattern to better visualize the oil level. 


• For simply _checking oil level_ (before each use), use the dipstick; if the level is visible on the crosshatch section of the dipstick, the oil level is okay. If it makes you feel better, you can add a bit more oil to bring it up to the top of the UPPER LIMIT. 

• For _refilling the oil_ after a change, or during initial set-up, add oil until the level reached the UPPER LIMIT mark on the dipstick.


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## Apple Guy (Sep 7, 2014)

Normex said:


> KARLITOS for your engine break in oil just buy conventional 10w30 or 5w30 oil and don't put synthetic just yet as it it not good to to mix synth and conventional and as of now you have conventional.


 ANY modern synthetic oil can be mixed with regular oil without ANY issues. Your opinion is 20 years old and inaccurate. We are so far past that scenario. .


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## pfn (Dec 24, 2010)

Apple Guy said:


> ANY modern synthetic oil can be mixed with regular oil without ANY issues. Your opinion is 20 years old and inaccurate. We are so far past that scenario. .


 
This is correct as long as you use "traditional'' synthetics, generally from the major oil companies. My understanding is that you should not mix organic synthetics with true synthetics like Royal Purple and Amsoil.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

RoyP said:


> Oil level on the Honda engines is a strange item. They put a small dip stick built into the screw cap. They they tell us that the correct level is when oil run out of the fill hole.
> 
> Why put a dip stick on the cap.....?????? DUH !!!!!!


So you can check the oil level without having to pour in oil so that it runs out!  people will often want to check the oil, but not need to add oil.

Scot


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

KaRLiToS said:


> Can I put this in my lawnmower too?


Since your lawn mower is used in "much" higher temperatures, I would say to use straight 30 weight oil for better protection.


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## KaRLiToS (Nov 21, 2014)

Grunt said:


> Since your lawn mower is used in "much" higher temperatures, I would say to use straight 30 weight oil for better protection.


Thanks Grunt. What is the code for straight 30 weight?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Apple Guy said:


> ANY modern synthetic oil can be mixed with regular oil without ANY issues. Your opinion is 20 years old and inaccurate. We are so far past that scenario. .


Your assertion can be right but the fact I put forward was based on a long video by Bob The Oil Man, If I recall they don't mix because of great differences in particle size between dyno and synth oil. Just the messenger of facts.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

KaRLiToS said:


> Thanks Grunt. What is the code for straight 30 weight?


SAE30 is the non detergent oil and HD30 is the high detergent oil. For an engine you would want HD30, but if you had a gearbox or something that called for 30 oil then you would want the SAE30. 5w30 and 10w30 might be OK to use as well, but they might burn some oil then. I just use whatever I have on hand in my lawnmower.


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## pfn (Dec 24, 2010)

Normex said:


> Your assertion can be right but the fact I put forward was based on a long video by Bob The Oil Man, If I recall they don't mix because of great differences in particle size between dyno and synth oil. Just the messenger of facts.


I believe you are correct about the particle (molecule) size. My understanding is that the major difference between conventional and most (not the true synthetics like Red Line and Amsoil) is that the molecules of synthetics are all the same size. That is why they lubricate better than conventional oil, whose molecules are different sizes. The way it was explained to me is that if you threw a handful of different size marbles (conventional oil molecules) on the floor and rolled a safe over them the safe would move but that it would not be supported (lubricated) as well a same the sized molecules of synthetics. 
Mixing them removes the benefit of the same sized molecules but causes no other problems.
So I'm told.


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## BigBillyBobandhisGoat (Nov 17, 2014)

so in theory, wouldn't u want the first oil u ever put in it, if your going true synthetic, to be true synthetic, otherwise there will always be different size marbles in there. Also, overtime, don't most moving parts heat up which causes the oil to turn a darker color, and also leaves a dark residue like any oil, on the moving parts, all of which, would again void the purpose of a true synthetic? im really just guessing, i don't know much about this kind of stuff, but im curious why some say to run dyno oil first


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

BigBillyBobandhisGoat said:


> so in theory, wouldn't u want the first oil u ever put in it, if your going true synthetic, to be true synthetic, otherwise there will always be different size marbles in there. Also, overtime, don't most moving parts heat up which causes the oil to turn a darker color, and also leaves a dark residue like any oil, on the moving parts, all of which, would again void the purpose of a true synthetic? im really just guessing, i don't know much about this kind of stuff, but im curious why some say to run dyno oil first


 BBBhG The first oil in the snow blower is from the manufacturer and dyno oil cost half and even more less. Synthetic oil will not go far with the bean counters as the break in oil is to be flushed after the first 5 hours of use anyway. It is actually better to have a lesser quality oil initially to have all the internal parts mesh together with wear. I hope to have clarified your question.


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## pfn (Dec 24, 2010)

BigBillyBobandhisGoat said:


> so in theory, wouldn't u want the first oil u ever put in it, if your going true synthetic, to be true synthetic, otherwise there will always be different size marbles in there. Also, overtime, don't most moving parts heat up which causes the oil to turn a darker color, and also leaves a dark residue like any oil, on the moving parts, all of which, would again void the purpose of a true synthetic? im really just guessing, i don't know much about this kind of stuff, but im curious why some say to run dyno oil first


"but im curious why some say to run dyno oil first". The reason you do not use synthetic oil to break in an engine is that synthetics are too good. The piston rings require a small amount of wear to seal the cylinder properly. The rings will not seat (wear) properly with synthetic oils because there is not enough wear. Synthetics nearly eliminate internal wear. It is amazing stuff. This much I am certain is so. What I don't understand is that new, high-end cars ship with synthetic, not convectional, oil which kinds of blows my theory. For this I have no answer. Anyone?

"don't most moving parts heat up which causes the oil to turn a darker".
The oil gets dark primarily due to the products of combustion getting into to the oil and the fact that the detergents in the oil are doing their job cleaning everything it touches. The detergents really works well. The oil itself does not go bad. When I sold my quick lubes we were getting a little over a dollar a gallon for the oil we removed from your cars. The used oil is either recycled or used as a fuel. Somewhere along the line I was told that Mercedes in the 60s where shipped with recycled oil. I don't know if this is true. 
Of note is the fact that the refiners told us that the reason to change synthetics as the auto manufactures recommend is that the additives go bad, not the oil, so you do need to change as recommended. I think they just wanted the sales.


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