# Should I rejet my brand new 1332 machine?



## connor77 (Oct 17, 2017)

I should have asked this in my first thread about re-jetting. I just took delivery of my HS1332 and I'm wondering if I should try it as is or re-jet it before I put any fuel in it. I read all the comments about guys that had leaking issues after re-jetting and I'd like to avoid that. It would be a much cleaner job - obviously - if I did it now. I'm debating whether I should see how it does with stock jet but my machine has the old chute and I won't be happy if it clogs. 
Regarding the leaking, I realize the bowl needs to be oriented a certain way. I'll put sharpie marks on it to make sure it goes back on the way it was from the factory. 
Lastly I have 105 and 108 jets. Should I just go to 108 and call it a day?


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

You'll be fine, dont knock it till you try it. From personal experience I can tell you the 110 jet works great with the GX390 but 108 on a new machine should be fine as well. The jet can be changed in a couple of minutes, as far as leaking is considered, I have never had any issue with carbs leaking after a rebuild. Change the jet and you probably wont even have to get the updated chute.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Do Not “Reject” the 1332.  

But do rejet it. I agree with JNC the 110 is the ticket. It might be a little fat for the first couple hours but atleast you won’t have to do the swap twice. It won’t harm anything. 

The threads discussing the bowl leaking baffled me. Although the tech manual states a specific bowl position, it’s only for “proper” access to the fuel drain valve. It has no effect on the float or the ability for the needle to seal correctly. 

Do mark the bowl and reinstall back in its proper position, check that the bowl gasket is seated correctly, and make sure the hinge pin for the float is centered in the tabs. Oh and use a proper screwdriver that fits well.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

If it helps, I just helped a buddy purchase a brand new HSS1332ATD yesterday, he has 2010 model HS1132 that is a true peach that got sold to a co-worker for $1800 in minutes as you could literally eat off of the machine. I told him the same thing that I am telling you, dont even bother with the upgraded chute, at least just yet; change the jet and call it a day. 





As far as leaky bowl is considered, that happens as the O ring that sits inside the channel in the carb can either come off or is not sealing properly due to the fact that the compression area between the bowl and the aluminum surface between the car is only a few microns. If that area was half a mm then no one would ever have an issue with leaky carbs. 



Here is a neat trick, you dont have to use it but you can if you want to, fill out the o-ring channel with a film of petroleum jelly/vaseline, sit the o-ring in it, apply a thin layer of vaseline on the lip of the carb bowl and install it. The jelly is gas soluble so there is no risk of it hurting anything. What this does is that it seals any cavity that there might be left between the o-ring channel and the carb, secondly it takes out any friction that there might be between the bowl and the o-ring. I have been using this practice for a few years now with 100% success rate against any leaks.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

JnC that sounds like a great idea.....I'm going out to buy some today!


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## connor77 (Oct 17, 2017)

Thanks for the advice guys....I tried to edit my "reject" spelling error but couldn't because it's the thread title. I didn't order the 110 because I thought it might be too big of a jump but I'll order it now. 
I have a potentially stupid question...Should the chute control joystick be moving the chute with the key in the "ON" position but the machine not running? The top of the chute is in the full down position as that's the position it apparently gets shipped in and I just wanted to "relieve" it a bit. I don't have any fuel or oil in my machine yet since I'm waiting for my jet order so I just turned the machine to "ON". The chute did not move. Obviously I'm really hoping the machine needs to be running in order for the chute joystick to actually work and move the chute....My brother got the mechanical and electrical genes, not me...


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Is it a battery-start-equipped machine? If not (if it must be plugged into a wall outlet for electric start), then it would not have any electricity source when the engine is stopped. So it would only be able to move the chute while running. 

If it has a battery start, then hopefully another owner can chime in with how it should behave. Or the manual might cover this.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

I'm assuming you have an HSS 1332 and not an HS 1332, right? If so, the chute only works when the engine is running.

I replaced my stock 102 jet with a 108 and I noticed a difference in power, but only a slight one. I'm going to order a 110 soon. The install is only about a 10 minute job, but even if it takes you a half an hour, that is not too bad. The 108 jet is fine, I'd just like to go to a 110 as most everyone here advises.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

I will add, that the Canadian version HS models with on board 12 volt start, will move the chute around and up and down with the key on without the engine running.


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## FullThrottle (Apr 7, 2017)

I have the 2018 HSS928AC and like you say with the key in the on position it will move the chute up or down etc. with the 12 volt start system.





contender said:


> I will add, that the Canadian version HS models with on board 12 volt start, will move the chute around and up and down with the key on without the engine running.


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## connor77 (Oct 17, 2017)

jrom said:


> I'm assuming you have an HSS 1332 and not an HS 1332, right? If so, the chute only works when the engine is running.
> 
> I replaced my stock 102 jet with a 108 and I noticed a difference in power, but only a slight one. I'm going to order a 110 soon. The install is only about a 10 minute job, but even if it takes you a half an hour, that is not too bad. The 108 jet is fine, I'd just like to go to a 110 as most everyone here advises.


Thanks. I have an HSS machine and in addition to your feedback I found in the manual that the chute only works with the engine running. Regarding your second point - after reading the 68 page re-jetting thread I thought that most people felt 108 was enough. I know a couple of people had older machines and found 110 was better. I don't want my machine running too rich. I just don't want to have it clog. Anyway, I'm going to order the 110 and do some more reading...:smile2:


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

cranman said:


> JnC that sounds like a great idea.....I'm going out to buy some today!


and you can use that stuff for other things as well.......


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Personally, I don’t think the 108 stepping stone is nessesary. 

I started with a 105, found that to be much better but still insufficient. Then I bumped right to the 110 with only a few hours on the engine. 

The 110 on my GX390 was barely rich even during breakin. Now with 20 hours it runs perfect.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

drmerdp said:


> Personally, I don’t think the 108 stepping stone is nessesary.
> 
> I started with a 105, found that to be much better but still insufficient. Then I bumped right to the 110 with only a few hours on the engine.
> 
> The 110 on my GX390 was barely rich even during breakin. Now with 20 hours it runs perfect.



I put a #110 in a 2012 HS1332 with significant hours on the motor, it ran a bit lumpy, checked the RPM and for some odd reason max rpm was set at 3100, kicked it up to 3600 and now the machine runs like a champ.


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## Freddy Ford (Jan 30, 2018)

connor77 said:


> Thanks. I have an HSS machine and in addition to your feedback I found in the manual that the chute only works with the engine running. Regarding your second point - after reading the 68 page re-jetting thread I thought that most people felt 108 was enough. I know a couple of people had older machines and found 110 was better. I don't want my machine running too rich. I just don't want to have it clog. Anyway, I'm going to order the 110 and do some more reading...:smile2:


I am one of the people from last year and yes, 108 (.042) is the best jet for low hour machines. 110 (.043) can be better for machines with about 100 hours give or take, but not guaranteed. Yes a 110 can make it run just fine, but too rich and you can actually loose peak power output. I've done small engine tuning back in the day and we would tune our race engines to be on the lean side for more peak horsepower. 110 is not too rich to foul up your machine so go right ahead if you feel better, but I run a 108 with 50 hours on the machine and won't be increasing at all for now and it's what I recommend. These jets are so cheap just pick up different sizes so you have them. Not to mention changing the jets couldn't be much easier.


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## connor77 (Oct 17, 2017)

Thanks for the feedback guys. I think I'll run the 108 for a while and let the machine break in a bit. I'll order the 110 now so I have it on hand. Separately, I really appreciated the tip JNC gave about how to prevent leaks and the demo video that drm did regarding how to change the jet. Very helpful site indeed.


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## hubilado (Jan 19, 2016)

jrom said:


> I'm assuming you have an HSS 1332 and not an HS 1332, right? If so, the chute only works when the engine is running.
> 
> I replaced my stock 102 jet with a 108 and I noticed a difference in power, but only a slight one. I'm going to order a 110 soon. The install is only about a 10 minute job, but even if it takes you a half an hour, that is not too bad. The 108 jet is fine, I'd just like to go to a 110 as most everyone here advises.



I've been reading many of these re-jetting posts on this and other threads and one thing I'm not seeing is what the altitude is for these various recommendations..... I have a bone stock HSS1332ATD and am at 7200 feet. The engine seems to be running OK, but I suspect I'm not getting maximum power...that could be just the altitude, but am wondering if a larger or smaller main jet would help. Honda recommends that I go one smaller...but LOTS of folks on this forum are way above that. Anyone out there with experience with this machine at or near my altitude?


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

hubilado said:


> I have a bone stock HSS1332ATD and am at 7200 feet. The engine seems to be running OK, but I suspect I'm not getting maximum power...that could be just the altitude, but am wondering if a larger or smaller main jet would help.


At 7,200 feet I'd bet in the direction of a smaller jet to lean it out a bit. Have you pulled the spark plug to see if it is coated with carbon? If so that's a giveaway that it's running too rich.

I don't know what the "default" altitude is for setting up carburetion for small engines but I'd wager it is far below a mile high. BTW, a mile is 5,280 feet so you're well above that.

This is why piston engine airplanes have an engine mixture control, to lean out or richen the mixture as altitude changes.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Personally I wouldn’t suggest a smaller jet. At 7200 feet I’d assume that the stock 102 or 105 would be the right jet. 

I encourage you to do your own testing and evaluation and report back to educate the rest of us. 

Spark plug readings are only useful to a degree. Test and tuning one day with the same snow conditions is the best way. 

Being hyper aware of your forward speed, engine load, and the audible engine note should be enough to decide if one is better then the other. 

If there isn’t any decernable difference I’d air on the side of the larger jet by default. By the time your engine accumulates significant hours, you’ll be glad to have the appropriate richer jet.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

OoooH, for those adjustable jets. [ and a lot of other things }.
Sid


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