# Honda snow blower clogging concerns - OFFICIAL update from Honda with parts info



## [email protected]

Dear Honda HSS snow blower owners,

Thank you for your ongoing patience concerning the chute clogging issue on HSS724A, HSS928A, and HSS1332A snow blowers. We apologize for the frustration, and again, we appreciate your patience as we have worked to solve this issue. Producing an improved chute design for wet and heavy snow conditions has taken longer than any of us wanted. 

We would like to give you a preview of the new chute. A larger U-shape opening has been incorporated into the chute. Our extensive testing shows this solves the abnormal clogging issue.

As soon as the new chutes are available, American Honda will provide servicing dealers with the information needed to order and install the new chutes. We anticipate release in early October. This repair will not be a recall – recalls are only for safety-related issues. However, please be assured, the repair will be available under warranty if you have experienced this issue.

As we stated previously, only a very small number of snow blowers actually experienced this issue – mostly in the New England area. The original snow blower chute seems to clog more easily than expected under certain wet and heavy snow conditions. The new chute design does not improve performance outside of these conditions. For this reason, if you have not previously had clogging issues, you do not need to replace your chute. 

We would like to note that _all _snow blowers will clog under certain severe conditions – that’s normal for all snow blower manufacturers. This new chute will address _abnormal _clogging issues. It may still clog under severe conditions, but that should occur much less frequently.

If your snow blower has experienced this issue, you should contact your local dealer in early October. Installation of the new chute will need to be performed by your dealer and will be covered by warranty. 

If you have questions or concerns regarding your snow blower, or need help finding a local dealer near you, please contact the Honda Customer Relations Office at 770-497-6400 or visit powerequipment.honda.com.

Again, we apologize for the frustration this may have caused. Thank you for your patience.

Sincerely,
The Honda quality team


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## orangputeh

Thank You Robert.

My dealer told me with the new chutes, the work light will be covered with snow when the chute is pointed in that direction.


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## [email protected]

A quick additional update on [email protected] Unfortunately he is not back on the forums yet. We hope he is able to return soon. 

Please continue to direct queries to our Customer Relations team for the fastest response! Thank you for your understanding.


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## gibbs296

Looks like an easy do it yourself kinda deal if would be an out of pocket repair. Good photo. And there's your dinner....


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## RedOctobyr

Thank you for the update, it's good to get some official info. 

To avoid assumptions, if a machine is out of warranty, the owner would have to pay for the new chute, even if they are experiencing clogging?


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## Bob_S

I would like to ask Honda the following simple question(s).

Will the update be a no charge if the snow blowers 3-year warranty has lapsed? 

If *NO*, would it be at no cost if we were to make it known to our dealer that we want the upgrade now before our initial 3-year warranty laps?
Would we need to provide an official Honda bulletin number while making the request for service with our dealer?
Also, if there be a time limit (beyond the 3- year warranty) for having the upgrade completed, what would it be? 

I ask these questions because as of today's official response from Honda, all units in the field ARE still under warranty (but many won't be for long). This makes there following statement potentially ambiguous:

_"However, please be assured, the repair will be available under warranty if you have experienced this issue"_

Any time limit that would force us to send our snow blower to the dealer this winter (service can often take weeks) would not be acceptable.


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## CalgaryPT

The attached photos are helpful. While I haven't experienced issues with my machine in Calgary, it is nice to know the fix is so simple and a DIY for those of us that wish to do it anyways. I know Honda took some unpleasant comments from members here, so I appreciate you keeping your cool. Just knowing the fix is simple is reassuring in case we do get the problematic wet stuff others get on the east coast.

I certainly plan to keep my HSS724 ACTD for a long time and have a deposit on a second single stage 720 as soon as they arrive in Calgary soon.

Thanks Honda.


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## leonz

Cut the bloody thing off, ski wax the chute and be done with it. what is so hard about that??? anything in the path of the snow stream will create friction and melt water.

OR

1. Cover the light with a warmed up wide piece of roll up kiddee sled to make a shroud and glue it on the housing with gorilla glue or super glue. 

2. Use the rest of the kiddee sled heating it up on the chute to form it and then glue it to the chute if you do not want to use stainless steel elevator bolts. 

The previous model did not have any of this and it worked well from what I have gathered.


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## RIT333

So, after extensive research, Honda came up with a fix that someone on this forum has done at least 6 months ago. I hope the Honda R&D team didn't have to spend a great deal of overtime copying the proposed fix.


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## orangputeh

Bob_S said:


> I would like to ask Honda the following simple question(s).
> 
> Will the update be a no charge if the snow blowers 3-year warranty has lapsed?
> 
> If *NO*, would it be at no cost if we were to make it known to our dealer that we want the upgrade now before our initial 3-year warranty laps?
> Would we need to provide an official Honda bulletin number while making the request for service with our dealer?
> Also, if there be a time limit (beyond the 3- year warranty) for having the upgrade completed, what would it be?
> 
> I ask these questions because as of today's official response from Honda, all units in the field ARE still under warranty (but many won't be for long). This makes there following statement potentially ambiguous:
> 
> _"However, please be assured, the repair will be available under warranty if you have experienced this issue"_
> 
> Any time limit that would force us to send our snow blower to the dealer this winter (service can often take weeks) would not be acceptable.




If Honda acts in "good faith" they should extend the warranty for this repair as it took a couple years to address the problem.

good luck.


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## jeffNB

RIT333 said:


> So, after extensive research, Honda came up with a fix that someone on this forum has done at least 6 months ago. I hope the Honda R&D team didn't have to spend a great deal of overtime copying the proposed fix.


That may have been me. I think I was the first to "hack" the chute - at least to document it here. Here is my thread:

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/100538-hss928-clogging-%5Bsolved-%5D.html

Not sure I will bother with the time and effort to have it changed to the updated chute. It will be interesting to see cost of the updated chute. Manufacturers usually have lower prices on parts that are involved in a recall or TSB. That way, the manufacturer has to pay less profit to the dealer on the warranty claim. For the record, I paid $80 CAD back in 2016 for a chute. 

Will the little remaining material on the baffle will solve the headlight loading-up-with-snow problem? Time will tell once the updated chutes make it to the field.


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## cwolcott

[email protected] said:


> Dear Honda HSS snow blower owners,
> 
> Thank you for your ongoing patience concerning the chute clogging issue on HSS724A, HSS928A, and HSS1332A snow blowers. We apologize for the frustration, and again, we appreciate your patience as we have worked to solve this issue. Producing an improved chute design for wet and heavy snow conditions has taken longer than any of us wanted.
> 
> We would like to give you a preview of the new chute. A larger U-shape opening has been incorporated into the chute. Our extensive testing shows this solves the abnormal clogging issue.
> 
> As soon as the new chutes are available, American Honda will provide servicing dealers with the information needed to order and install the new chutes. We anticipate release in early October. This repair will not be a recall – recalls are only for safety-related issues. However, please be assured, the repair will be available under warranty if you have experienced this issue.
> 
> As we stated previously, only a very small number of snow blowers actually experienced this issue – mostly in the New England area. The original snow blower chute seems to clog more easily than expected under certain wet and heavy snow conditions. The new chute design does not improve performance outside of these conditions. For this reason, if you have not previously had clogging issues, you do not need to replace your chute.
> 
> We would like to note that _all _snow blowers will clog under certain severe conditions – that’s normal for all snow blower manufacturers. This new chute will address _abnormal _clogging issues. It may still clog under severe conditions, but that should occur much less frequently.
> 
> If your snow blower has experienced this issue, you should contact your local dealer in early October. Installation of the new chute will need to be performed by your dealer and will be covered by warranty.
> 
> If you have questions or concerns regarding your snow blower, or need help finding a local dealer near you, please contact the Honda Customer Relations Office at 770-497-6400 or visit powerequipment.honda.com.
> 
> Again, we apologize for the frustration this may have caused. Thank you for your patience.
> 
> Sincerely,
> The Honda quality team


Will Honda also cover pickup and delivery service to have the fix installed?

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## cwolcott

I ordered this chute on ebay and expect it to arrive tomorrow. Wonder if I'm just as well off the install this instead of waiting in line to have dealer install under warranty.









Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## Miles

Thank you, Robert! Honda is standing behind it's products! I had the hydraulic cavitation warranty work done on the 928 this summer and will get the chute replaced in the fall. Bravo, Honda!


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## RIT333

cwolcott said:


> Will Honda also cover pickup and delivery service to have the fix installed?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk



To quote Steven Tyler of Aerosmith - Dream On !


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## tabora

I contacted Honda with the questions asked here:


_*tabora:*_ Thank you very much for posting the update regarding chute clogging on the snowblowerforum.com site. Many forum participants were early adopters of the HSS models and have the following concerns: 

Will the update be at no charge if the snow blowers 3-year warranty has lapsed?

If NO, would it be at no cost if we were to make it known to our dealer that we want the upgrade now before our initial 3-year warranty lapses?

Would we need to provide an official Honda bulletin number while making the request for service with our dealer?

Also, if there will be a time limit (beyond the 3-year warranty) for having the upgrade completed, what would it be?


_*Honda:*_ All chute replacements will be performed on a case by case basis for units in or out of warranty to make sure that customers that have a clogging issue are taken care of under the warranty.

We know that customers in the New England area have this happen more often but in other parts of the U.S. never has clogging issues.

Bulletin numbers will not be needed for the customer to present to a dealer since every dealer in the affected areas already know about the clogging issues.

We have a data base of customers that have reported the clogging issues so if the warranty has expired it would still be covered by the warranty.

We hope this helps, thanks for your email.

PE Customer Relations


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## SnowCat in Bend

"We know that customers in the New England area have this happen more often but in other parts of the U.S. never has clogging issues."




HSS928 Clogging in Bend Oregon to the point of sending snowblower back to dealer for 90% refund.


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## RedOctobyr

tabora said:


> I contacted Honda with the questions asked here:


Thank you for reaching out to them, and sharing the reply. 



> We have a data base of customers that have reported the clogging issues so if the warranty has expired it would still be covered by the warranty.


This concerns me slightly. The implication is that if you reported having clogging issues before your warranty ran out, then you're on a list, and they will do the bulletin for free. 

But what if you had the clogging problem, but didn't report it to Honda? There are plenty of things about products that irritate people, but they don't necessarily report them officially to their vendor, or the manufacturer. I'd imagine there must be people with clogging, who didn't write to Honda. 

I guess one approach would be to contact Honda now and report it, if you've had clogging problems, to be safe.


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## cwolcott

RIT333 said:


> To quote Steven Tyler of Aerosmith - Dream On !


I thought I read someplace they do, but cannot now find where.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## leonz

Cut the half ring off the bottom and paint it before you mount it on the snow mule.
If you look closely you will see the half ring weldment is tilting inward into the snow stream as it exits the impeller housing NOT GOOD.


Go ahead and paint it use some turtle wax on the chute in several coats, then hang a snow brush on the snow mule to clear the light off. It does not matter whether I use the JD junk or the snow pups I use the space heater preheat the engines and to melt it all off and dry it out as they are exposed to road salt, thanks New York State for wasting my tax dollars.


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## Cardo111

Kudos to Honda for stepping up and offering owners a solution to their problem, they listen. This is a testament to their commitment to building a high quality product and standing behind it.


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## jwasilko

I ordered a hss1332atd today at my dealer (Maestranzi Bros in Beverly, MA). They were aware of the pending fix, and I told them I didn't want them to deliver the unit until the new parts are installed.


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## SnowCat in Bend

The new & improved chute is one thing, what about re-jetting? Isn't that also part of the "fix"?


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## CalgaryPT

Not according to the official Honda post.


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## RedOctobyr

SnowCat in Bend said:


> The new & improved chute is one thing, what about re-jetting? Isn't that also part of the "fix"?



I doubt it. The jetting is almost certainly a result of EPA requirements, I would not expect them to be willing/able to increase the jet size.


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## leonz

jwasilko said:


> I ordered a hss1332atd today at my dealer (Maestranzi Bros in Beverly, MA). They were aware of the pending fix, and I told them I didn't want them to deliver the unit until the new parts are installed.



Ask them to put the bigger jet in it for you as long as your waiting for the new chute-they should not B(**& too much as they made a big sale to you anyway. The snow mule will run better and the exhaust fumes should be less problematic and the EPA will be none the wiser.

I hope that they offer a propane version for this engine and snow mule in the near future. 

Of course it would not be very hard to convert it to propane adding a dual fuel carburator and the straight 10 weight oil will be better lubrication for the engine as the propane fueled engines burn hotter.


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## gibbs296

leonz said:


> Ask them to put the bigger jet in it for you as long as your waiting for the new chute-they should not B(**& too much as they made a big sale to you anyway. The snow mule will run better and the exhaust fumes should be less problematic and the EPA will be none the wiser.
> 
> I hope that they offer a propane version for this engine and snow mule in the near future.
> 
> Of course it would not be very hard to convert it to propane adding a dual fuel carburator and the straight 10 weight oil will be better lubrication for the engine as the propane fueled engines burn hotter.


I would guess that dealer could be fined about $10,000 for altering the carb/emissions system. Do not even ask them....https://www.epa.gov/enforcement/clean-air-act-vehicle-and-engine-enforcement-case-resolutions


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## leonz

Or just buy a new jet and change it when you have the snow blower at home.


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## CalgaryPT

Lots of options. Buy the pin vise and drill off Amazon. But I did get an extra jet just in case I drill too big.


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## tabora

jwasilko said:


> I ordered a hss1332atd today at my dealer (Maestranzi Bros in Beverly, MA). They were aware of the pending fix, and I told them I didn't want them to deliver the unit until the new parts are installed.


Since you're at sea level, order the 110 jet from 6 Sigma; they're $6.60 delivered.* https://www.ebay.com/itm/Predator-2...m360a820ed4:m:mNcTajo9s2ihPH_bsfMlUjg&vxp=mtr 
*
Here's the simple installation procedure:

1. Remove the bottom cover (aka Air Guide).
2. Run the engine with the gas off and choke applied until it dies.
3. Open the bowl drain to get the remaining tiny bit of gas out.
4. Make 2 index marks on the carb/bowl with a Sharpie on either side of the float hinge boss to help with alignment during reassembly.
5. Remove the bowl and clean it if necessary.
6. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to remove the stock 102 _.0402_ jet and install the new 110 _.0433_ jet and reassemble the carb bowl and check for leaks.
7. Reinstall bottom cover.


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## vmax29

tabora said:


> 6. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to remove the stock 102 _.0402_ jet and install the new 110 _.0433_ jet and reassemble the carb bowl and check for leaks.[/FONT]
> 7. Reinstall bottom cover.


+1 what Tabora recommends! And enjoy your new machine. You will like it a lot.


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## northeast

leonz said:


> Ask them to put the bigger jet in it for you as long as your waiting for the new chute-they should not B(**& too much as they made a big sale to you anyway. The snow mule will run better and the exhaust fumes should be less problematic and the EPA will be none the wiser.
> 
> I hope that they offer a propane version for this engine and snow mule in the near future.
> 
> Of course it would not be very hard to convert it to propane adding a dual fuel carburator and the straight 10 weight oil will be better lubrication for the engine as the propane fueled engines burn hotter.


Honda is well aware re-jetting solves the issue they can’t advise this fix due to our epa.


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## tabora

leonz said:


> ...I hope that they offer a propane version for this engine and snow mule in the near future...


Where the heck are you planning to put the 20# propane cylinder??? :icon_whistling: In cold weather, a small cylinder won't convert liquid to gas fast enough. A 1 lb tank probably won't run a 13hp engine running at 3600RPM, and you'd lose as much as 20% of your HP, even with a large cylinder.

I converted my generator to dual fuel in about 15 minutes using this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Brig...447129?hash=item3aa3a29fd9:g:UWwAAOxy2CZTajYJ

I really can't see it being practical on a snowblower, though...


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## cwolcott

I just finished putting a modified chute on my 1 yr old hss928atd. Also changed out the stock main jet with an 090 jet. Also replaced oil. She's purring like a kitten and seems to be sloth running than last year, but that may be wishful thinking. Am I missing any other important adjustments I should consider after increasing size of jet? I verified rpm at fast idle is 3500 and at slow idle somewhere around 2460.

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## northeast

Bump your rpms up to the electronic rev limiter then back it off just a bit, that should put you at 3900 or so. I then adjust the throttle back to about 3500 and I can push it up if I need the extra rpms.


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## cwolcott

northeast said:


> Bump your rpms up to the electronic rev limiter then back it off just a bit, that should put you at 3900 or so. I then adjust the throttle back to about 3500 and I can push it up if I need the extra rpms.


Sorry, had a typo in my post. Meant to say it is purring like a kitten and running "smoother" than last year. Does that change your thoughts? Should I still bump up rpms?

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## northeast

cwolcott said:


> Sorry, had a typo in my post. Meant to say it is purring like a kitten and running "smoother" than last year. Does that change your thoughts? Should I still bump up rpms?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


I would still increase the rpms. There is really no downside you can still run at 3500 by pulling back the throttle a little. Just listen to the engine and you can set it where you want. Then if you need a few more turns push the throttle to the stop and you have them when needed.


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## orangputeh

where do you folks get these larger jets from? I want to put a bigger jet in my old 1132. from all the HS models i have worked on the 1132 carb seems to be the most finiky.

main jet is a #98


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## tabora

orangputeh said:


> where do you folks get these larger jets from? I want to put a bigger jet in my old 1132. from all the HS models i have worked on the 1132 carb seems to be the most finiky.
> 
> main jet is a #98


*I get mine from 6-Sigma: *https://www.ebay.com/itm/232104529620

$6.60 delivered. You're at higher elevation, so maybe just bump it up to a #100?


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## cwolcott

orangputeh said:


> where do you folks get these larger jets from? I want to put a bigger jet in my old 1132. from all the HS models i have worked on the 1132 carb seems to be the most finiky.
> 
> main jet is a #98


I got mine from boats.net, twice. My wife through the first one out, twice, because the package was so small she could not tell anything was in it. First time I retrieved it from the trash. Second time no such luck, so I reordered. They were quick on delivery and the main jet itself is dirt cheap.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## orangputeh

cwolcott said:


> I got mine from boats.net, twice. My wife through the first one out, twice, because the package was so small she could not tell anything was in it. First time I retrieved it from the trash. Second time no such luck, so I reordered. They were quick on delivery and the main jet itself is dirt cheap.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


i mean my jet is a #98. does boats carry larger ones? I wanted to put a larger one in. ya boats is fast sometimes as long as parts are in stock. they hold up a whole order if one part is out of stock for a week or more. I usually qualify for free shipping and those orders take 3-4 weeks. not good in my book.


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## jrom

I ordered an OE jet (#108 [.0425"]: Part Number 99101-ZH8-1080) from my dealer last winter for $6.42 and it was at the counter in 2 days. Had to pay tax, but no shipping or handling.

I'm going to order a #110 soon. $6.74. (#110 [.0433"]: Part Number 99101-ZH8-1100).

You guys may want to check with your dealer first. Mine has an online parts site that's super easy to use.

The 108 and 110 are listed as optional jets for the GX390.


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## cwolcott

orangputeh said:


> i mean my jet is a #98. does boats carry larger ones? I wanted to put a larger one in. ya boats is fast sometimes as long as parts are in stock. they hold up a whole order if one part is out of stock for a week or more. I usually qualify for free shipping and those orders take 3-4 weeks. not good in my book.


According to their website they have honda main jets 100, 102 and 105. I make it a point not to order anything online the vendor site cannot confirm is in stock and confirm delivery before I place an order. Too many online sources for most things to accept anything less these days.

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## tabora

The boats.net cost is $5.49 + $7.95 shipping = $13.44

The dealer cost is $6.74 + local sales tax.

The 6-Sigma cost is $6.60 delivered anywhere in the lower 48.


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## John445

Can someone tell me in detail how to increase the rpm on the hss model. Even some pictures would be helpful. I’ve looked behind the carb, but couldn’t figure it out. Is there an adjustment screw, or a spring that needs to be played with.


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## tabora

John Liapis said:


> Can someone tell me in detail how to increase the rpm on the hss model. Even some pictures would be helpful. I’ve looked behind the carb, but couldn’t figure it out. Is there an adjustment screw, or a spring that needs to be played with.


You don't need to take anything off to adjust the RPMs. There's a hole on the back side; use a long shank Phillips driver in that hole to reach the adjustment screw. See the service manual page attached...


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## John445

Ok, this is what I was looking for. I have a hss 724. Will the rpm’s be the same as the 928?


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## tabora

John Liapis said:


> Ok, this is what I was looking for. I have a hss 724. Will the rpm’s be the same as the 928?


That's the GX200T2 engine, so I believe specified max RPM is 3650 as well, with final operating speed at 3600.


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## northeast

These gx engines are getting their peak torque at about 2500 rpm’s and peak horsepower at 3500 rpm’s. My 1332 would bog down to about 2500 rpm’s and then would just lug along at that speed never quitting but it was just not very motivated. From a seat of the pants point of view these engines are still making more power right up to 4000 rpm’s after re-jetting.

This video confirms my opinion in the comments it states all internals are stock and it’s making 18 horsepower at 4000 rpm’s.


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## 1132le

northeast said:


> These gx engines are getting their peak torque at about 2500 rpm’s and peak horsepower at 3500 rpm’s. My 1332 would bog down to about 2500 rpm’s and then would just lug along at that speed never quitting but it was just not very motivated. From a seat of the pants point of view these engines are still making more power right up to 4000 rpm’s after re-jetting.
> 
> This video confirms my opinion in the comments it states all internals are stock and it’s making 18 horsepower at 4000 rpm’s.
> 
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sTBq3bRRQqE



50% increase in power by jetting and reving 4000 rpms ahhhhh nope imo
HP = torque multiply by rpms divided by 5252
24 x 4000=96000 div by 5252=18.278 hp thats what it need to make 18 hp at 4000 rpms
you are almost talking twin cylinder tractor power numbers from a stock 389cc with a jet

no way a stock 390 has 24 ft lbs of torque at 4000 rpm
that formula of torque x rpms div by 5252 is not debatable its 100% legit
if it makes peak torque at 2500 its falling and dropping big time at 4000 rpm not jumping to 24 ft lbs
at 4000 rpm instead of 3500 the impeller is spinning another 200 rpm higher thats what makes it feel better
that would make it have around 27 or 28 ft lbs at 2500 rpm or even more out of 389cc no chance

honda have a much higher impeller rpm and tighter drum gap which why 7 hp honda can out throw a stock 10 or 12 hp ariens hence people say the honda have more power they are are under rated when its really tight a tight drum and much higher impeller speed
so much for the nay sayers saying raising the impeller speed on and ariens is only good if you have a big enough engine when honda and yamaha are doing it with smaller engines

shaw and other have shown what ariens do with impeller kit and the higher impeller speeds then combine that with the bigger engines that ariens use to make up for the lesser specs of the drum gap and impeller speed then not only do you get the distance but you clear faster then the lesser engine honda

the combo of the drum gap impeller speed and torque not hp is what matters


no need for you to quote me and tell me how much fatser your machines clear now and you can do it twice as fast ive read that
Id love a 1332 honda just not the price
my 20 ft lbs lct engine on the 28 inch ariens with impeller kit and so far impeller raised to just over 1100 and the motor at 3800 rpms is pretty insane for $900 bucks


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## northeast

Honda states 19 ft lbs of torque from the 390 at 2500 rpm’s. So with that now the baseline we are talking about a 25 percent increase. Overhead valve engines usually continue to make torque until around 4500 rpm’s and his dyno run does just that. I would guess these engines reach peak torque at 2500 because they are being starved for fuel. Given the simple mods he did it’s entirely plausible to get 24 ft lbs. This is what was done to the engine. The timing is advanced and the cylinder is finished with a torque plate it has a header and less restrictive air intake no changes to the internals all bolt on stuff. 

The point of posting the video is to show that the gx engines will indeed continue to make power right up to the electronic limiter if re-jetted. Even completely stock except for the larger jet they do this! I would guess my machines are somewhere around 16 hp and I am definitely making more torque at higher rpm’s and it’s plenty.


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## 1132le

northeast said:


> Honda states 19 ft lbs of torque from the 390 at 2500 rpm’s. So with that now the baseline we are talking about a 25 percent increase. Overhead valve engines usually continue to make torque until around 4500 rpm’s and his dyno run does just that. I would guess these engines reach peak torque at 2500 because they are being starved for fuel. Given the simple mods he did it’s entirely plausible to get 24 ft lbs. This is what was done to the engine. The timing is advanced and the cylinder is finished with a torque plate it has a header and less restrictive air intake no changes to the internals all bolt on stuff.
> 
> The point of posting the video is to show that the gx engines will indeed continue to make power right up to the electronic limiter if re-jetted. Even completely stock except for the larger jet they do this! I would guess my machines are somewhere around 16 hp and I am definitely making more torque at higher rpm’s and it’s plenty.



v8 engines on a dyno if they pick up 2 or 3 % when rejetting they are happy
25% cmon now

if its rated 19 ft lbs at 2500 it would need to have 27or 28 ft lbs at 2500 to have 24 ft lbs at 4000 rpm the the torque goes down as rpm goes up big time
thats a 50% gain at 2500 lol
not even with nitrous would it do that lol
Peak torque at 2500 because its starved for fuel iam no thats the cam and bore and stroke thats a bad guess to try and further your assumption

its called a peak for a reason as after that it goes lower as hp climbs thats how a power curve works
when i jetted my car at the track i was happy if i picked up a 1/10in the quarter and 1 ish mph
on a 350rwhp car its takes 10 hp to pick up 1/10 of a sec in 1/4 mile 10 hp on a 350 hp engine is not quite 3%

lots of guys would love to rejet there carb and pick up even 30%= 105 hp on there car a std 125 hp nitrous kit adds about 80hp and 175 ft lbs of torque
never mind 175 hp which would be a 50% gain from a jetting ahhhh it just doesnt work that way
torque plate is not a simple mod its a snowblower sheesh you might get 2% gain from that on 8 cylinder motor might get nothing if it was fine to start

the camshaft is most responsible for when peak torque occurs all it does is either shift the the curve higher or lower in the rpm range which then changes the hp at that rpm


----------



## northeast

1132le said:


> v8 engines on a dyno if they pick up 2 or 3 % when rejetting they are happy
> 25% cmon now
> 
> if its rated 19 ft lbs at 2500 it would need to have 27or 28 ft lbs at 2500 to have 24 ft lbs at 4000 rpm the the torque goes down as rpm goes up big time
> thats a 50% gain at 2500 lol
> not even with nitrous would it do that lol


So your position is what? Because mine is this. These engines are de-tuned so much to pass emissions that they are not making anywhere near there potential power. I have proven this fact through two or three side by side videos. In each video I ran a stock machine and then a modified machine the modifications being only re-jetting and increased rpm. The re-jetted machine was literally twice as fast in the exact same conditions. Do some math for me and tell me how that’s possible without making significantly more power?

You can’t compare a high performance engine that you re-jett to adjust for atmospheric conditions to an engine that’s been neutered for California emissions.


----------



## 1132le

northeast said:


> So your position is what? Because mine is this. These engines are de-tuned so much to pass emissions that they are not making anywhere near there potential power. I have proven this fact through two or three side by side videos. In each video I ran a stock machine and then a modified machine the modifications being only re-jetting and increased rpm. The re-jetted machine was literally twice as fast in the exact same conditions. Do some math for me and tell me how that’s possible without making significantly more power?
> 
> You can’t compare a high performance engine that you re-jett to adjust for atmospheric conditions to an engine that’s been neutered for California emissions.



rejetting is rejetting no matter what kind of engine you do it on 

it takes a power adder to get the kind of gains you are talking about
if you get 3% from a rejet on anything you are doing good
not 40 or 50% sheesh
it would take 27 or 28 ft [email protected] 2500 to have 24 at 4000 rpms thats close to a 50% increase 28 minius 19= 9 ft lbs of torque thats almost 50% gain never ever

your machine that has nothing to do with picking up 45 or 50% from a rejet
engine builders and race car owners would be would be paying big money for that
detuned? 1 jet
my lct 414cc is detuned too
you make it like the machine doesnt work at all
those in the area that dont heavy wet snow are saying the machine is just fine
the chute is 95% of the issue
if honda was going to be picking up 50% gain they would be closer then where they are on the jet and capture most of the power and still pass emission
my tec ohv 358 was rated at 13 hp it was really 10.8 ish
my lct 414cc was rated from 11.5 to 12.5 its really its a legit 11.5 ish hp they way the old tech was rated its 15 hp
power curves are simple math 

I dont think you understand them i could be wrong the statement the make peak torque at 2500 because they are fuel starved would say to me you dont understand them

ive built and raced and tuned a few engines i do under stand the power curve and what effects them and how they work
ill bow out enjoy your machine


----------



## northeast

Read this please. This thread is from a guy racing in Africa so they don’t deal with California emissions. They are getting 24 hp out of basically a stock gx390 at 5200 rpm’s. That is almost exactly what the video shows that I posted.

https://karting.4cycle.com/showthread.php?79019-Honda-GX390-(Lacks-Torque)


----------



## vootman

*Honda snow blower come logging concerns - OFFICIAL update from Honda with parts info*

So is Honda (and every other manufacturer) jetting every machine they sell the same regardless of location? That seems like it would make the OEM overly lean condition at sea level just about right for high elevation towns.


----------



## 1132le

You dont know what been done to that motor in the vid you were not there
you dont know what those cart guys have done to there engine headers etc valve springs cam

I know what you pick up from a rejet some of them are quoting my math for power figures
your motor is stock you get 3% ok lets go all out 5 % thats it
your legit 11 hp engine is now 11.5
a snowblower is not a racing cart those guys mod everything
iam shocked you think a stock gx390 is picking up 45% gain with JUST A JET

its a snowblower
eom


----------



## northeast

1132le said:


> You dont know what been done to that motor in the vid you were not there
> you dont know what those cart guys have done to there engine headers etc valve springs cam
> 
> I know what you pick up from a rejet some of them are quoting my math for power figures
> your motor is stock you get 3% ok lets go all out 5 % thats it
> your legit 11 hp engine is now 11.5
> a snowblower is not a racing cart those guys mod everything
> iam shocked you think a stock gx390 is picking up 45% gain with JUST A JET
> 
> its a snowblower
> eom


So if I am only gaining 3 to 5 percent how is it that the machine is twice as fast?

You sound like you have an idea, but if you have not run them side by then you can’t really speak for the dramatic change in performance. We are gaining more then 3 percent hence the post I made suggesting I would love to have the engine tested. 

I have never suggested a 45 percent gain. I am suggesting around 20 percent or 2.5 to 3 horsepower.


----------



## 1132le

northeast said:


> So if I am only gaining 3 to 5 percent how is it that the machine is twice as fast?
> 
> You sound like you have an idea, but if you have not run them side by then you can’t really speak for the dramatic change in performance. We are gaining more then 3 percent hence the post I made suggesting I would love to have the engine tested.



just because it runs twice as fast ( your words) doesnt mean it take a 45% power increase to do that thats your preception
what about the engine that wont run right and it wont blow snow if you fix the carb and you get it to run 3 times faster do you think you picked up 300% power gain
thats not how it works
its not a power to weight gain like a drag car is its a snowblower


----------



## northeast

I am not suggesting 45 percent.


----------



## 1132le

northeast said:


> I am not suggesting 45 percent.



Dude it would take 28 ft lbs of torque 2500 to have about 24 ft lbs at 4000 rpm which it what it takes to make 18 hp at 4000 rpm
the motor is rated at 19 ft lbs at 2500 a 45% increase is8.55 ft lbs 19 plus 8.55= 26.55 ft lbs
so it would take over a 45 gain to get those numbers so you saying that
heres the math for you
19.6 ft lbs times a 5% gain thats high you picked up .98 ft lbs with the jet
you now have 20.6 being generous
you will have less then that at 4000 thats if you understand the power curves
again ill be generous and give you 19 ft lbs at 4000 very generous
19x 4000=76000 divide by 5252= is 14.4 hp
you wont get the 5% i used more like 3% you also wont have 19 ft lbs at 4000 rpms more like 18 in that case you would have
18x4000=72000div by 5252=13.7 on the best day of its life
24x4000=96000 div by 5252=18.2 that you will never ever see with just a jet change even if you dropped it off a cliff


----------



## northeast

Again I am not suggesting 45 percent. I did not pull this number out of thin air I spent a bit of time talking with guys that build go kart race engines. They stated these numbers.


----------



## 1132le

post49 from you
This video confirms my opinion in the comments it states all internals are stock and it’s making 18 horsepower at 4000 rpm’s.




To make your above opinion it requires a 45% power increase in torque at 2500 rpms from what the torque is rated stock to get 18 hp 

you will get 3% give or a take a 2% so you are 40% short of the above the opinion from your post
enjoy your blower it works
just like mine eats


----------



## northeast

northeast said:


> Honda states 19 ft lbs of torque from the 390 at 2500 rpm’s. So with that now the baseline we are talking about a 25 percent increase. Overhead valve engines usually continue to make torque until around 4500 rpm’s and his dyno run does just that. I would guess these engines reach peak torque at 2500 because they are being starved for fuel. Given the simple mods he did it’s entirely plausible to get 24 ft lbs. This is what was done to the engine. The timing is advanced and the cylinder is finished with a torque plate it has a header and less restrictive air intake no changes to the internals all bolt on stuff.
> 
> The point of posting the video is to show that the gx engines will indeed continue to make power right up to the electronic limiter if re-jetted. Even completely stock except for the larger jet they do this! I would guess my machines are somewhere around 16 hp and I am definitely making more torque at higher rpm’s and it’s plenty.


Please read this again. These are the same mods the guys on the forum thread are doing. So two different places same results. They are not changing internal parts it’s all bolt on stuff.


----------



## Jae0

For my fellow Canadians; I’ve called Honda Canada customer support to inquire about the status of any service bulletins related to redesigned chutes for the HSS machines and they had (apparently) zero knowledge about any problems, bulletins or new hardware, and “just because the comes to the USA doesn’t mean it will come to Canada”. Awesome.


----------



## CalgaryPT

Jae0 said:


> For my fellow Canadians; I’ve called Honda Canada customer support to inquire about the status of any service bulletins related to redesigned chutes for the HSS machines and they had (apparently) zero knowledge about any problems, bulletins or new hardware, and “just because the comes to the USA doesn’t mean it will come to Canada”. Awesome.


Thanks for calling. 

Did they acknowledge a problem in Canada or just say no bulletins or fix on the way? I ask because I've had no issues with my HSS724ACTD. Most of our stuff is dry, but we have had a few wet dumps and I have brought it through wet stuff after the Chinooks softened everything up. Interestingly enough my dealer Adventure Honda in Calgary, as well as Rocky Mountain Honda in S. Calgary and Turple Bros. in Red Deer north of us had no knowledge of any complaints for the past two years. In fact, I had to tell them about the issue.

I wonder in anyone in NL or NB has had issues??? They should get wet stuff.


----------



## Jae0

CalgaryPT said:


> Thanks for calling.
> 
> 
> 
> Did they acknowledge a problem in Canada or just say no bulletins or fix on the way? I ask because I've had no issues with my HSS724ACTD. Most of our stuff is dry, but we have had a few wet dumps and I have brought it through wet stuff after the Chinooks softened everything up. Interestingly enough my dealer Adventure Honda in Calgary, as well as Rocky Mountain Honda in S. Calgary and Turple Bros. in Red Deer north of us had no knowledge of any complaints for the past two years. In fact, I had to tell them about the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder in anyone in NL or NB has had issues??? They should get wet stuff.




I’m in NB; that’s why I called. They made no acknowledgement of an issue whatsoever. I got the generic “if there is an issue tied to your serial (actually said VIN), you will get a notice in the mail”. I don’t believe that’s the case with snowblowers though; since I wasn’t alerted about the transmission or interlock bulletins. I mentioned to her that I would expect a notification about safety recalls but not a bulletin; she assured I’d get notified by either. I have gained confidence in their support team through my calls this far.

I do think it’s a combination of knowing when to power through with that machine as well as design flaw, but for a $4,000 CAD machine; if there’s something that might improve performance, I want the machine at its best. 

PS: I know about rejetting


----------



## CalgaryPT

Jae0 said:


> I’m in NB; that’s why I called.
> 
> I do think it’s a combination of knowing when to power through with that machine as well as design flaw, but for a $4,000 CAD machine; if there’s something that might improve performance, I want the machine at its best.
> 
> PS: I know about rejetting


I suspect you are bang on WRT technique. I used to own a Yamaha 624 years ago and too it clogged with wet snow, but with technique it was no issue at all. All will clog. 

I bought over size jets and do have a pin vise and bits to drill out further if needed; I also would try an impeller kit...I just keep waiting for it to fail so I can justify the work. I may do it just for giggles but my machine is close to brand new so if I don't have to I probably won't. Having said this, the pic of the Honda-endorsed mod published on this forum for the chute seems the first place to start if needed.

Thanks again for calling.


----------



## Nshusky

I am in NS and will let you know what shows up as far as the chute on a 1332 is concerned.
I was shopping around for either a Yamaha or Honda (checked out Toro as well) this week and I put a deposit down on a 1332CTD.
They had a left over 2018 CT but I wanted the extra options and they have some on the way and will get one ready for me when they show up.

I mentioned the chute issue to the couple of employees there and they said it was first they heard of it.
I told them the new blower should have the redesigned chute and all they could say is that it is a brand new machine coming so if the chute was modified in production then my blower should have it when it comes in so I have to wait and see.

I’ll post up the verdict but it may likely be early November they think for the new inventory.

Sorry to hijack the thread but I figured this post was related to the chute issue and may be of interest.


----------



## CalgaryPT

Nshusky said:


> I’ll post up the verdict but it may likely be early November they think for the new inventory.
> 
> Sorry to hijack the thread but I figured this post was related to the chute issue and may be of interest.


That's not hijacking the thread--we'd love to hear your results, modified chute or not. Surely there can't be any difference between US and Canadian snow...unless it is like their dollar and gets 20% heavier when it crosses the border?


----------



## Miles

I went into the dealership where I bought my Honda snowblower a year ago and showed them Robert's letter about the clogging. The front desk people did not know about it, but the management downstairs did and they have scheduled a pickup of my HSS928 on Wednesday for a replacement chute. The first thing that management asked was, "Does he have a bill of sale showing he bought it here". I had them service it last year so it was on the computer and I did not have to show paperwork. I am glad that I bought from the dealer instead of at a big box store. This is the second warranty fix so far. I had the transmission reservoir installed this summer.


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## leonz

Defer, Deny Delay, Wash, Rinse, Repeat, Defer, Deny, Delay. Just think what would have happened if you bought it out of state and moved to your current address with it.

I am just glad to see that they honored their warranty repair for you.

When TORO sent out the new 3000 pups they had a problem with sticking plastic chutes. They found out the chutes were injection molded with too thick a base and you could barely turn it with heavy force and I was able to get a new chute a few days later at no charge.


----------



## YSHSfan

Does anyone know the part numbers for the two new redesigned chutes?


I see the same old part number listed on places like Hondapartsnation.com


https://www.hondapartsnation.com/oe...quipment/76310-v45-c30za/chute-r280-power-red


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## leonz

The honda power equipment site still has the same chute number, nor have they updated their service bulletin list either.


----------



## Miles

They did not have a part number for the new chute at the dealer counter yet and had to go to management to get approval. The counterwoman was confused even after I showed her Robert's post and told me that I would have to negotiate with Honda directly. The counterman, who also delivered my machine, called down to management and they approved it on the spot.


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## tabora

leonz said:


> Defer, Deny Delay, Wash, Rinse, Repeat, Defer, Deny, Delay. Just think what would have happened if you bought it out of state and moved to your current address with it.


 Any Authorized Honda Service dealer should service any machine in or out of warranty without batting an eye.

My local dealer had all the info for both service bulletins in the computer and apparently ordering the parts was no issue. And I purchased this machine in New Hampshire back in 2017, since the local dealer was out of stock. They have already replaced the defective battery in it under the 1-year battery warranty, too. 

When I get my machine and paperwork back, I'll post the part number if someone doesn't beat me to it. 


dadnjesse said:


> Got HSS1332 snowblower back from dealer today new chute installed...


*dadnjesse*, do you have it on your paperwork?


----------



## dadnjesse

Here's receipt, this is for both transmission and chute


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## tabora

dadnjesse said:


> Here's receipt, this is for both transmission and chute


Thanks! So we now know for sure that it's Service Bulletin #31 and the part number for the HSS1332ATD is 76310-V45-C31ZA (original part was 76310-V45-C30ZA).

So, I'll hazard a guess that the other part number may be 76310-V45-A01ZA (original part was 76310-V45-A00ZA).



Miles said:


> They did not have a part number for the new chute at the dealer counter yet...


Miles, when you get your HSS928 back, can you please confirm or let us know the correct one?


----------



## YSHSfan

Thanks for the part numbers. They don’t work yet at online parts places, maybe they are/will not available yet until all the affected units are ‘fixed’


----------



## Miles

Yes, I will let you know if they give me back paperwork. I didn't get any paperwork back from the transmission reservoir addition. They don't sell a lot of Honda's down here in Maryland at this dealership. Honda is one of the many, many brands they carry. I think they sell a lot more Ariens at Jack's Small Engines.


----------



## Miles

Jack's Small Engines picked up the HSS928AWD that I had sitting outside at the top of the driveway. I'm looking forward to getting the new chute and trying it out. We are not far from the Chesapeake bay and are 10 miles from the Bush river so the snow here does tend to be wetter.


----------



## leonz

Glad to see that you will be prepared for the coming Noreasters.

The Moat Monsters will love your feeding them the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTERS every time it snows.
Its always best to run the first pass to the end the driveway and get rid of the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTER and then you can clear the rest of the driveway with clean snow that has no salt or salt brine in it.
Buy a can of fluid film in the spray can to spray the chute several times to coat it before the first storm and it will really slick it up for you.


----------



## Miles

That's good advice about getting rid of the EOD first. I have a can ready for the first snow.


----------



## leonz

Great just be sure to blow the mess on the side that the plow passes the home place so they are not dumping any END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTER REMAINS back in the driveway.
You could always blow it across the road and have plausible deniability as the phantom snow blower shows up in the weirdest places and at the strangest times in the dark.


----------



## Miles

The dealership called me today to ask, "Under what conditions does it clog?" I said that it takes me 20 minutes to do the driveway, and the machine clogs twice. I said that I was surprised because the snow did not seem that wet. I live near the Bush river and the Chesapeake bay and there is a lot more moisture in the air here. They relayed that information to Honda and Honda approved the new chute. I am pleased that Honda is standing behind it's product here. I think that my conditions here are the optimal ones for clogging with this machine and it is going to be interesting to see how much better it performs with the new chute. I know what it is like to throw out blocks of ice when the snow is really slushy, but my machine was clogging when the snow was a little wetter than decent snowball consistency and I thank Honda for stepping up to the plate and providing a solution. Thanks also to Jack's Small Engines, the Honda dealership, for going the extra mile and assisting me as soon as I asked. They have a customer for life, that's for sure.


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## dadnjesse

My dealer Naults Honda never questioned me about clogging or the speed issue they just fixed it. And from the day I dropped it off and the day they called and said it's ready was only 8 days.


----------



## jwasilko

I ordered a new 1332 a month ago and have been waiting on the new chute for delivery. Heard today they got the parts and will be delivering it on Thursday!


----------



## leonz

Just be sure to have some Fluid Film spray on hand and coat the chute and spout with four or five coats of Fluid Film letting it dry between coats.

OR use 4 or five coats of turtle wax in the chute and spout to aid in getting rid of the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTERS so you can feed the MOAT MONSTERS with their remains to keep them happy too.

If you invest in the Fluid Film aerosol spray be sure to keep it in a warm place so you can shake and mix it quickly to spray the chute and spout if the ice begins to wear off the coats of fluid film. 

The turtle wax should last longer depending on how much ice in the snow pack you have to get rid of.


----------



## Nshusky

leonz said:


> Just be sure to have some Fluid Film spray on hand and coat the chute and spout with four or five coats of Fluid Film letting it dry between coats.
> 
> OR use 4 or five coats of turtle wax in the chute and spout to aid in getting rid of the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTERS so you can feed the MOAT MONSTERS with their remains to keep them happy too.
> 
> If you invest in the Fluid Film aerosol spray be sure to keep it in a warm place so you can shake and mix it quickly to spray the chute and spout if the ice begins to wear off the coats of fluid film.
> 
> The turtle wax should last longer depending on how much ice in the snow pack you have to get rid of.


Good advice.^
I spray my blower chutes and snow shovels with DuPont Teflon spray that I get at Canadian Tire but Fluid Film I’ve heard works the same.
Several coats in the weeks leading up to the snow does the trick.
Been doing this ever since my first snowblower.

I picked up my 1332 today from the dealer so I’ll start coating that soon to get it ready for snow.
It didn’t come with the new redesigned chute surprisingly.
The dealer checked into it and advised the free upgraded chute is only for Honda US customers at the moment but if it is approved for Canada they’ll look after me.
I may order one in eventually and swap out if I experience serious issues.
Thanks for posting up the invoice with the chute part number.


----------



## FirstSnowBlower

*Ordered HSS1332ATD today*

Hi, I live in Michigan and ordered a new HSS1332ATD today from Weingartz and they are replacing the chute before delivering it to me. The dealer wasn't even aware that Honda released the new design but now they are going to let their customers know of this available mod. This is my first snow blower ever and I know it's way too much for my 3 car 70 foot long driveway but I don't care LOL. I debated between the 28" and this 32" until the very last minute but decided the auger protection system, dual articulating chute control and larger engine were enough for the $400 difference. I would appreciate anyone's input as i still have a week to change my mind. Thx


----------



## Miles

I think that the auger protection system is worth the extra expense. I have read here that hitting a frozen newspaper can be a huge mess without an auger protection system. When the huge storm does come, you will be totally prepared. That being said, I have the HSS928AWD and have not broken a shear pin in two years of blowing snow. I do clean up the driveway before a storm though. I think that overbuying a machine to get the auger protection system is worth it. That machine is the state of the art for snowblowers. Honda's engines are wonderful and if you take care of the machine, it could last for 20-30 years, maybe longer.


----------



## panzer

FirstSnowBlower said:


> Hi, I live in Michigan and ordered a new HSS1332ATD today from Weingartz and they are replacing the chute before delivering it to me. The dealer wasn't even aware that Honda released the new design but now they are going to let their customers know of this available mod. This is my first snow blower ever and I know it's way too much for my 3 car 70 foot long driveway but I don't care LOL. I debated between the 28" and this 32" until the very last minute but decided the auger protection system, dual articulating chute control and larger engine were enough for the $400 difference. I would appreciate anyone's input as i still have a week to change my mind. Thx



Don't feel bad my three car driveway is shorter and I just bought a HSS1332ATD and I get less snow. In my defense a couple inches of snow blows into 1 to 2 foot drifts depending on how bad the wind is. Once you hit the 3k mark it is like what the **** is another four hundred dollars.


----------



## jrom

I live in Leelanau County, near Sleeping Bear Dunes and about 2 miles from Lake Michigan. I get a ton of lake effect snow.

I bought the first generation HSS1332ATD in November, 2015 and I love everything about it. Basically, the only thing I've had a hard time with is getting used to 4" more width than my 27 year old HS828. 

I've parked my vehicles the same way for the past 27 years and I've scraped the lower doors a couple of times with my wider blower. We can wake up to drifts up to the door handles sometimes and quite regularly the snow around the cars will be over the bucket of the HS828. I usually shovel around the cars, but sometimes I don't feel like shoveling and go right to the blower. The last three years I've had to be really careful there.

I've also hit frozen firewood and wood chips and the auger protection system works like a charm.

You're gonna love it.



FirstSnowBlower said:


> Hi, I live in Michigan and ordered a new HSS1332ATD today from Weingartz and they are replacing the chute before delivering it to me. The dealer wasn't even aware that Honda released the new design but now they are going to let their customers know of this available mod. This is my first snow blower ever and I know it's way too much for my 3 car 70 foot long driveway but I don't care LOL. I debated between the 28" and this 32" until the very last minute but decided the auger protection system, dual articulating chute control and larger engine were enough for the $400 difference. I would appreciate anyone's input as i still have a week to change my mind. Thx


----------



## FirstSnowBlower

Thank you Miles, Jrom and Panzer for your quick responses. I'm going to stick with this one and can't believe I'm looking forward to the first snowfall lol. Weingartz Utica is delivering this next Friday after they swap out the chute so i'm excited. I bought the Honda HRX217 series mower earlier this year and if this snowblower is quality construction like the mower i know I have nothing to worry about. Thx


----------



## jrom

I've got a 12 year old HRX217 and I love that too. Best mower I've ever used. That said, I think the blowers are even a little better quality. I especially like Honda GX engines.

Good going.

By the way, we've had two days of it being white here already, just not enough to break out a blower. Still chopping leaves with the mower. 

Enjoy the walk(s) behind yer Hondo's!





FirstSnowBlower said:


> Thank you Miles, Jrom and Panzer for your quick responses. I'm going to stick with this one and can't believe I'm looking forward to the first snowfall lol. Weingartz Utica is delivering this next Friday after they swap out the chute so i'm excited. I bought the Honda HRX217 series mower earlier this year and if this snowblower is quality construction like the mower i know I have nothing to worry about. Thx


----------



## tabora

There's at least one dealer listing the new chutes online @ $26.55:

For HSS1332ATD: https://www.tmsparts.com/oem/hondape/76310-V45-C31ZA

For non-HSS1332ATD: https://www.tmsparts.com//oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA


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## Bob_S

For $37.00 (with shipping) I am wondering if its worth it just replacing it myself and forgoing the dealer trips and risk not having it when the snow comes.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

Bob_S said:


> For $37.00 (with shipping) I am wondering if its worth it just replacing it myself and forgoing the dealer trips and risk not having it when the snow comes.


My thinking, too. I would worry about mishaps in transit, etc. I'm very much a believer in buying peace of mind.......


----------



## drmerdp

It’s been a few months since I’ve been on the forum, I’m glad to see Honda delivered a revised chute as we all expected. 

Looks like it’s the same collar welded in the same way using the same tooling. Only difference is the large U shaped relief. 

I think I still like my design better though. 

Not sure if I’ll install the new chute but I’ll atleast get my hands on one. 

Honda will NEVER promote rejetting the carb, but I advise everyone to consider doing it. Otherwise your only running at 80%.


----------



## tabora

tabora said:


> On 10/12/2018 - I just dropped my HSS1332ATD off this morning for both of the Service Bulletins as well. Hope mine goes as quickly as yours did. The dealer (in Scarborough, Maine) said that I am the first clogging report they've ever had. I checked all the HSSs in the showroom (20+) and none of them had the modified chute, either.


 Bummer... I checked with the dealership today on the progress on the Service Bulletins, since it's been 14 days since I dropped it off. Both of their service techs were injured in an accident, and only the service manager has been working on the service backlog for the past several weeks. Looks like about 2 more weeks until my blower gets updated. Hope the snow holds off; we're getting some at my cottage tomorrow, but that's 50 miles inland from me.

Interesting note: today one of the HSS928As on the showroom floor had the new chute on it.


----------



## RIT333

tabora said:


> Bummer... I checked with the dealership today on the progress on the Service Bulletins, since it's been 14 days since I dropped it off. Both of their service techs were injured in an accident, and only the service manager has been working on the service backlog for the past several weeks. Looks like about 2 more weeks until my blower gets updated. Hope the snow holds off; we're getting some at my cottage tomorrow, but that's 50 miles inland from me.
> 
> Interesting note: today one of the HSS928As on the showroom floor had the new chute on it.



If you are at all handy, why not ask the dealer for the replacement chute, and install it yourself. If can't be that big of a job.


----------



## tabora

RIT333 said:


> If you are at all handy, why not ask the dealer for the replacement chute, and install it yourself. If can't be that big of a job.


 They won't do that... Honda requires that the Service Bulletin parts be installed by an authorized service center. When my battery died under the 1-year warranty, I had a real hard time convincing them that I didn't have to bring in the blower to replace it.

That said, if the snow arrives before they get around to it, that discussion will occur again.


----------



## Bob_S

tabora said:


> There's at least one dealer listing the new chutes online @ $26.55:
> 
> For HSS1332ATD: https://www.tmsparts.com/oem/hondape/76310-V45-C31ZA
> 
> For non-HSS1332ATD: https://www.tmsparts.com//oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA


:question:
How did you determine these parts are for the new shoot? I cant find these part numbers at Honda or elsewhere in this forum.

Also as you stated "For non-HSS1332ATD" is this to say it will work with the HHS928?

Thanks


----------



## tabora

Bob_S said:


> :question:
> How did you determine these parts are for the new shoot? I cant find these part numbers at Honda or elsewhere in this forum.


If you skip back to Post 76 and read forward through Post 78, it should be clear how I came up with the part numbers, based on a response to my request to dadnjesse for his HSS1332ATD Service Bulletin invoice, and some familiarity on my part with how Honda part numbers work. Once I saw how Honda incremented that part number, I guessed that the same would be done with the other machines' part. Appears that my assumption was correct.



Bob_S said:


> Also as you stated "For non-HSS1332ATD" is this to say it will work with the HHS928?


Yes, all the non-HSS1332ATD models should use the chute ending in A01ZA, and it's already available to order on tmsparts.com and partspak.com

Everyone else will likely follow soon...


----------



## jrom

My local dealer has the new chute – 76310-V45-C31ZA – for $30.53, $32.36 with tax, no shipping.

I was told there are so few clogging reports in my area that I would have to submit an e-mail request and that Honda would have to okay it. Since I live within a couple of miles of Lake Michigan, the service manager said I have a good chance it will be approved.

He wasn't really sure if Honda will honor out of warranty claims or not. I have 15 days left of warranty.

It costs me about $15 in gas to deliver the blower to the dealer, back home and another trip there and back when it would be done.

At this point I think I'll buy one separately and install it myself, plus I'll keep my original one as a backup.


----------



## RIT333

jrom said:


> My local dealer has the new chute – 76310-V45-C31ZA – for $30.53, $32.36 with tax, no shipping.
> 
> I was told there are so few clogging reports in my area that I would have to submit an e-mail request and that Honda would have to okay it. Since I live within a couple of miles of Lake Michigan, the service manager said I have a good chance it will be approved.
> 
> He wasn't really sure if Honda will honor out of warranty claims or not. I have 15 days left of warranty.
> 
> It costs me about $15 in gas to deliver the blower to the dealer, back home and another trip there and back when it would be done.
> 
> At this point I think I'll buy one separately and install it myself, plus I'll keep my original one as a backup.



$30 in gas, plus time and wear & tear of your car - I would just pick one up when you are in the neighborhood.


----------



## jrom

Yep. That's what I'm going to do.



RIT333 said:


> $30 in gas, plus time and wear & tear of your car - I would just pick one up when you are in the neighborhood.


----------



## Nshusky

I am going to order in a new chute as well.
Removal is very easy as per this video.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

Tip - 

Remove the motor cover first before removing the chute. This makes it a lot easier to access and remove the rearmost carriage bolt (nut) of the 3 that hold the chute in place. 

Tip - 

When replacing the motor cover, loosely install the centre 2 screws first. This makes installing the 4 side screws easier.


----------



## justme12

Going to install myself as too much hassle to lug HS928TAS to dealer. Does the chute come with the plastic Bush?
If not, will it accept the OEM bush?


----------



## hockeyman5150

I have a question that may have been answered previously in this thread- Do new HSS units have the new modified chute already installed? Or is job 1 for a new HSS owner to then convince the dealer to help source the corrected chute? Thanks!


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

Some forum members have purchased new blowers with the new chute, some dealers have still to catch up. I think it will take a few more weeks to get everyone on the same page.


----------



## northeast

hockeyman5150 said:


> I have a question that may have been answered previously in this thread- Do new HSS units have the new modified chute already installed? Or is job 1 for a new HSS owner to then convince the dealer to help source the corrected chute? Thanks!


I had mine installed in my new machine before I took delivery last month. Your dealer should have no issue doing this for you.


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## Miles

Just got my HSS928AWD back from Jack's Small Engines and the new chute is in place. They did not give me any paperwork though, so I am unable to post any part numbers here.


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## TomHodge

Dealer picked up mine yesterday for the chute update. He said that the new blowers were coming in with the old chute. Honda would change them only if the customer asked.


----------



## tabora

Miles said:


> Just got my HSS928AWD back from Jack's Small Engines and the new chute is in place. They did not give me any paperwork though, so I am unable to post any part numbers here.


 Thanks, Miles... Looks like we already have confirmation on the part numbers:

For HSS1332ATD: https://www.tmsparts.com/oem/hondape/76310-V45-C31ZA

For non-HSS1332ATD: https://www.tmsparts.com//oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA


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## TomHodge

Dealer, Trak Equipment, dropped the blower off today. New chute looks great


----------



## CalgaryPT

Looking forward to some results in wet snow with the new chute some of you guys now have. Please post once you get some snow!

Off to pull out my HS720 -- we got just a couple of inches in Calgary this AM.


----------



## Railbender

My dealer called yesterday to ask if I wanted a new chute. After our first snow overnight I don't think so. We had 13.2" of wet snow with a bunch of leaves and my modified chute did fine. I think I will keep it.


----------



## cwolcott

I bought the new chute online and installed it myself yesterday. Only cost $26, so figured I'd avoid down time in the shop. Now just waiting for our first significant snow.......fingers crossed it does the trick.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## hockeyman5150

cwolcott said:


> I bought the new chute online and installed it myself yesterday. Only cost $26, so figured I'd avoid down time in the shop. Now just waiting for our first significant snow.......fingers crossed it does the trick.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


cwolcott - was the chute you purchased this one? https://www.tmsparts.com//oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA I am thinking about doing the same, as the cost to transport my machine would be greater than the new chute would cost me. 

Thanks!


----------



## cwolcott

hockeyman5150 said:


> cwolcott - was the chute you purchased this one? https://www.tmsparts.com//oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA I am thinking about doing the same, as the cost to transport my machine would be greater than the new chute would cost me.
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, that's the one. Earlier in the year I bought an aftermarket modified shute online. Cost me $75. I've posted pictures of it on this forum previously. That one installed very easily. Since the oem replacement was so inexpensive, I decided to go ahead and replace the aftermarket fix with the oem fix. Only thing I noticed is it was a bit more difficult to get the oem fix chute to fit onto the bushing. Two of the three bolts lined up no problem, but the third one on right front required some effort. Who knows why this would be. The bushing has not changed with the fix. I guess maybe the chute I received could have been a bit out of round. After some patience and about 10 minutes of jockeying it around I was able to get all the holes to align and secured with no problem, I definitely recommend doing it yourself if it's your cup of tea. I did not wait long to get part either. Maybe 5-6 days.

Also, that part number is the chute for non-hss1332 units. I have an hss-928aatd, so it right one for my unit. If you have an hss-1332, there's a different part number from same vendor list further up in this thread.

One other detail....the chute is just the chute, no labels. So if you want the two safety labels on back side of chute they need to be ordered separately. They're under $1 each.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## hockeyman5150

Thank you - exactly what I was thinking. I have a 928 as well, so that should do the trick.


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## Jae0

In Canada, our electric-start versions of the HSS928 include some additional goodies like the dual articulating chute. See below for comparison of the Canadian HSS928CT (non-ES) and HSS928CTD (ES). So far, I’ve seen the new chute design referenced as “1332” and “non-1332”; is that a function of the longer arm holding the spring at the top for the dual articulated end, or does the 1332 have a larger chute than the 928 in general? I’m asking because I’m Canada we have yet to hear whether or not the modified chutes will be made available under warranty, so if I buy from the US, I want to make sure it would fit. 










Thanks in advance!


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## tabora

Jae0 said:


> In Canada, our electric-start versions of the HSS928 include some additional goodies like the dual articulating chute. See below for comparison of the Canadian HSS928CT (non-ES) and HSS928CTD (ES). So far, I’ve seen the new chute design referenced as “1332” and “non-1332”; is that a function of the longer arm holding the spring at the top for the dual articulated end, or does the 1332 have a larger chute than the 928 in general? I’m asking because I’m Canada we have yet to hear whether or not the modified chutes will be made available under warranty, so if I buy from the US, I want to make sure it would fit.


If you have the HSS928ACTD or HSS724ACTD with the double articulated chute, I believe that you would also need the 76310-V45-C31ZA chute, which is only used on the HSS1332AATD in the US.


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## Jae0

tabora said:


> If you have the HSS928ACTD or HSS724ACTD with the double articulated chute, I believe that you would also need the 76310-V45-C31ZA chute, which is only used on the HSS1332AATD in the US.




Perfect. So more generalized to include us Canucks...

Double articulated chute:
76310-V45-C31ZA

Non-double articulated chute:
76310-V45-A01ZA


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## jfdaigle

Hi guys As a Canadian owner of a HSS1332 (bought new December 2017), I've been keeping a close eye on the "chutegate" for months and although I'm happy for our friends south of the border, looks like Honda Canada is totally ignoring the issue, for now anyway. I sent them an email last month; official response below. I've contacted local dealers as well and they haven't heard a thing yet. Looks like each of us might need to put pressure to get this resolved, otherwise it'll be a DIY fix.


When reviewing your case, we searched our database for any recalls, warranty extensions or product updates concerning the chute opening and can confirm that at this time there are none related to your specific model.

At Honda Canada, our focus is singularly on manufacturing and distributing products for the Canadian market based on Canadian market conditions and Canadian consumer requirements. Unfortunately, the Canadian and American markets can differ and although American Honda has addressed this issue, Honda Canada has no information regarding this improved chute design at the moment.

You mentioned that you previously reached out to your Power Equipment dealership and we would encourage you to stay in touch with them regarding any updates that may be available in the future, as they are among the first to receive information on any updates or product/parts availability.

We apologize for any frustration and inconvenience this may cause


----------



## Jae0

jfdaigle said:


> Hi guys As a Canadian owner of a HSS1332 (bought new December 2017), I've been keeping a close eye on the "chutegate" for months and although I'm happy for our friends south of the border, looks like Honda Canada is totally ignoring the issue, for now anyway. I sent them an email last month; official response below. I've contacted local dealers as well and they haven't heard a thing yet. Looks like each of us might need to put pressure to get this resolved, otherwise it'll be a DIY fix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When reviewing your case, we searched our database for any recalls, warranty extensions or product updates concerning the chute opening and can confirm that at this time there are none related to your specific model.
> 
> 
> 
> At Honda Canada, our focus is singularly on manufacturing and distributing products for the Canadian market based on Canadian market conditions and Canadian consumer requirements. Unfortunately, the Canadian and American markets can differ and although American Honda has addressed this issue, Honda Canada has no information regarding this improved chute design at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> You mentioned that you previously reached out to your Power Equipment dealership and we would encourage you to stay in touch with them regarding any updates that may be available in the future, as they are among the first to receive information on any updates or product/parts availability.
> 
> 
> 
> We apologize for any frustration and inconvenience this may cause




I share your sentiment and frustration. I’ve contacted my dealer (who knew nothing) and Honda Canada customer service, and got a non-committal response too. My next step is up the the chain of command, as all Canadian customers concerned about clogging should. These are expected to be top-of-the-line machines, and are priced as such. Wet snow conditions don’t stop at the US/CAN border.


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## gormleyflyer2002

JF.......how many times did yours plug last winter ?? 

i live in great lakes or GTA area snow belt and had no plugging problems but only have one winter of use on my 1332. Has anyone priced the chute from Honda Canada ! !


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## jfdaigle

clogged about 5 times, late in the season (March-April) when we often get a mix of wet/heavy snow (I'm in the Maritimes). And I've tried everything (going slow, fast, taking just a bit at a time, etc..), and would stop to unclog every minute or so. Works like a charm otherwise.
Totally agree with Jae0... no sense that Honda couldn't offer the new chute to ALL customers, considering the dough we coughed up for these machines. Granted, we don't have nearly the number of units sold in the U.S., but still can't imagine being a major issue to get the new chute here as well, hence the need to put pressure on those guys. I'm hoping it's just a matter of time...


----------



## Bob_S

Brought my HHS928 to the dealer for the chute replacement yesterday. The dealer looked up my information and told me it also needs an auger belt replacement under warranty. Has anyone heard of this service bulletin? Is this part of the chute replacement?


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## leonz

They probably cheaped out on buying the good auger belts and they are paying for it now.


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## drmerdp

Haven’t heard anything about an auger belt bulletin. The tech may have misspoke, there is a bulletin for early model auger clutch interlocks. 



> They probably cheaped out on buying the good auger belts and they are paying for it now


Kevlar wrapped industrial quality belts. Not cheap junk.


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## tabora

leonz said:


> They probably cheaped out on buying the good auger belts and they are paying for it now.


Perhaps we can lay off the Honda-bashing for a while? They seem to have stepped up and addressed all known issues, at least in the U.S. I continue to hope that Honda Canada will address the chute issue for our friends to the north.


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## Bob_S

drmerdp said:


> there is a bulletin for early model auger clutch interlocks.


The dealer did not know about this bulletin. Can you tell me where I might find this information?

Thanks


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## Miles

I just tested the new chute with the HSS928AWD. The snow was quite wet. You could push a shovel five feet and not be able to push it any further or lift it up and the snow is only 3 inches deep. With the new chute, I never clogged at all, even in the really heavy End Of Driveway pile. The machine did bog down in the EOD pile at full speed, but I backed off and at a slower speed it worked well. The redesigned chute works! Thanks for the fix Honda!


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## SkunkyLawnmowers

Miles said:


> I just tested the new chute with the HSS928AWD. The snow was quite wet. You could push a shovel five feet and not be able to push it any further or lift it up and the snow is only 3 inches deep. With the new chute, I never clogged at all, even in the really heavy End Of Driveway pile. The machine did bog down in the EOD pile at full speed, but I backed off and at a slower speed it worked well. The redesigned chute works! Thanks for the fix Honda!


Glad it worked for you!! Would you have clogged with the old chute? 

I have that same slushy mess you do. Parker's been straining at the auger to go out in it and I was going to and then it all turend to rain around 1pm. They're saying 2 - 3 inches of rain after the snow - if it had stayed colder, that would have been about 2 - 3 feet of snow!! They say 1 inch of rain = about a foot of snow and I think that's true from what I've seen.


----------



## LoganH

Miles said:


> I just tested the new chute with the HSS928AWD. The snow was quite wet. You could push a shovel five feet and not be able to push it any further or lift it up and the snow is only 3 inches deep. With the new chute, I never clogged at all, even in the really heavy End Of Driveway pile. The machine did bog down in the EOD pile at full speed, but I backed off and at a slower speed it worked well. The redesigned chute works! Thanks for the fix Honda!


Glad to hear the new chute works well, I'll be using mine tomorrow 5-8 forecast here. Lot of the credit on the new design should go to the folks here that had the answer over a year ago.


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## Miles

Yes, it would definitely have clogged the old chute and this was wet packing snowball snow. But the new design of the chute had no problems and I never clogged or even came close to it. Thanks to Honda designers and thanks to the inventors here who redesigned the chute last year!


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## tabora

Very depressing... I dropped my HSS1332ATD at the dealer on 10/12/2018 for Service Bulletins 30 & 31. I mentioned that others here had received their machines back in 8-10 days. They said it would be a couple of weeks because they were shorthanded. I waited 2-1/2 weeks, then checked in on progress. They said it would be a couple more weeks. At the 4-1/2 week mark, with a forecast for snow at the end of the week, I checked in with them again. They said I was 5th in line and it would be just a couple of days. I just checked to see if I could pick up my blower to be ready for the snow tomorrow. They said they would be looking at the machine tomorrow, AND THEN THEY WOULD HAVE TO ORDER THE PARTS!!! 5 weeks since I dropped it off! Losers. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


----------



## YSHSfan

tabora said:


> Very depressing... I dropped my HSS1332ATD at the dealer on 10/12/2018 for Service Bulletins 30 & 31. I mentioned that others here had received their machines back in 8-10 days. They said it would be a couple of weeks because they were shorthanded. I waited 2-1/2 weeks, then checked in on progress. They said it would be a couple more weeks. At the 4-1/2 week mark, with a forecast for snow at the end of the week, I checked in with them again. They said I was 5th in line and it would be just a couple of days. I just checked to see if I could pick up my blower to be ready for the snow tomorrow. They said they would be looking at the machine tomorrow, AND THEN THEY WOULD HAVE TO ORDER THE PARTS!!! 5 weeks since I dropped it off! Losers. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


If I was doing it, I'd drop the blower off in spring to get the recalls and warranties done.
For the chute, I just ordered a redesigned chute and I'll be installing it myself (to me spending $37 is better that having to deal with the approval of replacement, transporting the unit there, the turn around time wait and the pick up). Plus I'll be building a template to modify a couple of extra chutes that I have.


Once I had a Husqvarna Snowblower that needed warranty work, left it at the dealer in spring and pick it up in fall, worked out well for me that way.


----------



## leonz

That hoovers as Bucky Cat would say!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

They should never have made you wait like that for a a simple chute exchange!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would call them first thing in the morning and ask them to bring it back and while they are screwing around acting like a couple of wankers as my British friends would say or hosers as my Canadian friends would say; 
go to the Napa store and buy 2 cans of Fluid Film and keep them warm so they will be ready to use and spray better.

your going to need the Fluid Film or WD-40 


I am really sorry to see you get jerked around like this as someone had their priorities mixed up and wronged you!!!!!!!!!!!

I would call Honda Corporate and and explain the issue to them as you are a consumer without a expensive snow mule that is nothing but a boat anchor now as it has sat in thier their shop for 5 weeks and you need a snow blower that works when you use it let alone a snow mule that plugs as you were waiting 5 weeks for these bozos to fix the chute issue and the other warranty repair.

They wronged you and I would not hesitate to contact your senator and congressman about it as you were denied the use of your machine for 5 weeks. forget the better business bureau as they would be no help to you but a call to honda may work faster. 

Go and pick it up and buy some Fluid Film on the way into town.

That is just lousy business and they apparently had their heads in a dark and unsanitary place.
I would find another dealer to do your work for after this as there is no excuse for that. 

As Dangermouse cohort Pennfold would say "Crimeny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" 
You can get parts from Europe in five weeks or less for all that matters so............................. 


NO EXCUSE.


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## SkunkyLawnmowers

tabora said:


> They said they would be looking at the machine tomorrow, AND THEN THEY WOULD HAVE TO ORDER THE PARTS!!! 5 weeks since I dropped it off!


Wow that is HUGELY frustrating!!! Hugs

You'd have thought, if backed up, that they would assess what parts people need and get them ordered. 

It'll get done and the perfect storm will be waiting for you, tabora!!


----------



## nZone

Does anyone know the redesign chute part number for HSS724A - non battery? I would like to order the part and replace it myself.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


----------



## northeast

tabora said:


> Very depressing... I dropped my HSS1332ATD at the dealer on 10/12/2018 for Service Bulletins 30 & 31. I mentioned that others here had received their machines back in 8-10 days. They said it would be a couple of weeks because they were shorthanded. I waited 2-1/2 weeks, then checked in on progress. They said it would be a couple more weeks. At the 4-1/2 week mark, with a forecast for snow at the end of the week, I checked in with them again. They said I was 5th in line and it would be just a couple of days. I just checked to see if I could pick up my blower to be ready for the snow tomorrow. They said they would be looking at the machine tomorrow, AND THEN THEY WOULD HAVE TO ORDER THE PARTS!!! 5 weeks since I dropped it off! Losers. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


You need a new dealer!!! My dealer did both my hss1332’s while I waited and had my new machine done before I got there. It took him 20 minuets per machine.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

nZone said:


> Does anyone know the redesign chute part number for HSS724A - non battery? I would like to order the part and replace it myself.
> 
> Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


AFAIK, this is the part number - maybe someone else can confirm? This part number is for HSS724 & HSS928

https://www.tmsparts.com//oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA


----------



## leonz

Well,

"OUR" snow storm turned into a dud here in the southern fingerlakes.


----------



## jwasilko

We got very wet snow that changed to rain at the end here in Boston. 



My new HSS1332ATD did pretty well. The chute didn't clog, but there were so many leaves in the snow and that seemed to cause the snow to clump around the auger.


----------



## nZone

SkunkyLawnmowers said:


> AFAIK, this is the part number - maybe someone else can confirm? This part number is for HSS724 & HSS928
> 
> https://www.tmsparts.com//oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA


Thanks. I've just placed the order. 

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


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## leonz

If you spray Fluid Film on everything that contacts snow the crap and leaves will ball up much less and allow the cross auger to work better.


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## relaycruz

Just tested my new HSS1332ATD in some really sticky wet stuff in Salem, MA. I couldn't get it to clog no matter how hard I tried, and I have the old chute design. Was going to have the new chute installed but I may wait now, as I can see how the new design will make a mess around the headlight when turned to the right. Had an Ariens wheeled Pro machine before, and the Honda was in a different class. Will have to test it out more but so far so good. Dealer also said he only had one complaint with clogging on a 28".


----------



## Honda n CNY

relaycruz said:


> Just tested my new HSS1332ATD in some really sticky wet stuff in Salem, MA. I couldn't get it to clog no matter how hard I tried, and I have the old chute design. Was going to have the new chute installed but I may wait now, as I can see how the new design will make a mess around the headlight when turned to the right. Had an Ariens wheeled Pro machine before, and the Honda was in a different class. Will have to test it out more but so far so good. Dealer also said he only had one complaint with clogging on a 28".


I'm going to wait as well. Blew 8-10" of wet, nasty stuff today with no issues whatsoever. It was the first time using the HSS1332. I'm a happy camper. The machine worked flawlessly.


----------



## stinx

I have a 928 I bought new last year. I used it this past Friday and it clogged within half a pass. Clogged so bad I couldn't even use it. Going to have my dealer install the new chute. I am in MA and the heavy wet snow was too much for the machine.


----------



## firedudetl1

knowing really nothing about the Honda problem with the chute, I am wondering if anyone is waxing or "greasing" the chute before use....
paint my chutes with Hammerite, and then parafin wax "rubdown" seems to limit the clogging


----------



## imws

I purchased an HSS928AATD in August of 2016. It clogged the first time I used it. I told my Honda Dealer about it and they were not aware of any issues with clogging. Summer of 2017 I installed an impeller kit which helped a little but it still clogged. A few weeks ago I lined the chute area with uhmw adhesive backed sheets. Just up to the notorious collar, essentially from the collar down all around. Well I thought the snow from 11/15 - 11/16 would clog it up quite easily but it didn’t. It tried to build up but couldn’t because of the uhmw not allowing it to stick. So I’m hopeful this is the end of the clogging. Btw this machine bogged down very quickly with stuff down near the end of the driveway but it didn’t clog. Honda’s should redesign the chute and line it with a Teflon liner like Yamaha does in Canada.


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## Itsa62vette

stinx said:


> I have a 928 I bought new last year. I used it this past Friday and it clogged within half a pass. Clogged so bad I couldn't even use it. Going to have my dealer install the new chute. I am in MA and the heavy wet snow was too much for the machine.



Mine did the same thing, really hurts when your watching your neighbor with a cheap Craftsman blow thru the snow.


I fear this was an expensive mistake.


----------



## leonz

relaycruz said:


> Just tested my new HSS1332ATD in some really sticky wet stuff in Salem, MA. I couldn't get it to clog no matter how hard I tried, and I have the old chute design. Was going to have the new chute installed but I may wait now, as I can see how the new design will make a mess around the headlight when turned to the right. Had an Ariens wheeled Pro machine before, and the Honda was in a different class. Will have to test it out more but so far so good. Dealer also said he only had one complaint with clogging on a 28".


==============================================



Honda buyers;

Please do not wait. It is better to be pro active and have the dealer change it out and do this preventative work than stare at a pile of crap you cannot move at the end of a huge lake fed storm. It will only get warm and compress further and not go away quickly.

If the dealer balks at changing the chute just call the corporate office and lodge a complaint. 

Yamaha learned to improve their snow blowers by trial and error on Hokkaido island with the residents that live in the heavy snow country
and that is why they have the chute and impeller housings lined with the teflon/slick material lining and on the 1332 which has the teflon/slick material casting.


----------



## John445

I went to Maestranzi Bros. here in Beverly Ma. This state is where the whole clog gate began. They were in the dark about bulletin 30&31. They are hesitant to do any bulletin work on our snowblowers because corporate is difficult to work with and pay low wages to the repair shops. Also, when I did drop off my snowblower to get the chute replacement, I was told that I first have to call corporate to have my problem-complaint verified and proven before any bulletin work was approved. There are a lot of moving parts here that make these simple fixes timely and stressful to the consumer, and in the meantime, its hurting Honda’s reputation. I feel if Yamaha could begin to sell their snowblowers here in America, the competition would light a fire under the asses of Honda to get their act together and fix some of these issues before it reaches the public.


----------



## Miles

My dealership, Jack's Small Engines, called me to ask about the clogging problem, then called Honda and they approved the chute replacement. I told them that the machine was clogging in wet snow, but that the snow was not that wet; just good snowball-making snow. I do live near the water and the snow tends to be wetter so I told them that too. The new chute did not clog even in the very wet snow we just had last week. I have an HSS928AWD.


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## Itsa62vette

I have been dealing with Honda corporate for close to a year, my HSS928AATD has clogged from day one. Now they finally approved the replacement chute and the dealer wants 90.00 for pick up & delivery.


Honda should cover this but nop






Update, Honda Corporate called and approved the pick up and return fee's. Kudos to Honda for stepping up and making this right.


----------



## leonz

John Liapis said:


> I went to Maestranzi Bros. here in Beverly Ma. This state is where the whole clog gate began. They were in the dark about bulletin 30&31. They are hesitant to do any bulletin work on our snowblowers because corporate is difficult to work with and pay low wages to the repair shops. Also, when I did drop off my snowblower to get the chute replacement, I was told that I first have to call corporate to have my problem-complaint verified and proven before any bulletin work was approved. There are a lot of moving parts here that make these simple fixes timely and stressful to the consumer, and in the meantime, its hurting Honda’s reputation. I feel if Yamaha could begin to sell their snowblowers here in America, the competition would light a fire under the asses of Honda to get their act together and fix some of these issues before it reaches the public.


======================================================


MY ASSHAT! They were just messing with you.

They are just passing the buck/defer/delay/deny and being scofflaws. 
Honda should have sent them the recall notice to begin with. 
They should be the ones calling corporate and the service bulletin has been discussed here extensively.

If they have suddenly developed a case of not me, not us, never done it, never seen it, "there is no clogging problem". you can and should do the following: 

I was told by a honda dealer there is no clogging problem when I looked at a 928 chute mentioning the clogging issues with these units while a salesman was hyping the snow blower. I said you need to see the service bulletin for it.


First, call honda and lodge a complaint having the snow mules serial number and sales receipt in your hand and follow it up with a registered letter to them and the dealer. You need to establish a chain of evidence and also copies of the postings here and at other web sites discussing the issue PLUS a copy of the service bulletin. 

Second; you can down load the service bulletin drop off a copy of it to the dealer with a very nice letter stating that you understand that this is the busy season for snow blowers and you want this warranty issue taken care of. 

Further, you have no desire to drag this out and "you" as a customer of theirs purchased this snow blower in good faith. 

"YOU" only want a snow blower that works and that you hope that you and the dealer can come to a meeting of the minds about this warranty issue. 

"You" need to state in the letter that you do not wish to park in front of their business with a placard on your car stating that they will not honor a warranty repair for your snowblower for as long as it takes to obtain the warranty repair. 

By providing a copy of the warranty service bulletin and the letter you have done so in good faith and also stating that have also mailed a copy of the letter to honda corporate with complete detail only in the hopes of obtaining this warranty repair for the very expensive Honda Snow Blower that you purchased in good faith. 

"You" also need to mention that "you" have spent X amount of dollars and cents which is enough money on a seasonal use machine that could have been down payment for a BCS 2 wheel tractor for all season work with a much better BERTA snow blower made in Italy for heavy alpine snows.

If your dealer will not do the repair find another dealer and patronize them for other things at the same time as your money has the same value to them. 

"You" are the first and only person that does not want trouble with the machine "you" spent good money on to take care of your snow removal.

I have no patience for these people; they are there to sell to the public what is supposed to be a "good" piece of power equipment and offer repair service as well as warrranty work. If they cannot tolerate being paid a lower rate for warranty and service bulletin repairs I would find another honda dealer to do this work.

I have been burned by bad realtors, shyster property owners, poorly made cars and the )(*&^%^&*()_ dealers that sell them., the Lincoln Logs bankruptcy, a lousy Keystoker dealer and their lousy boiler controls that nearly blew up my house, spending more money on better boiler controls, bad plumbers sticking me for 5 days labor for a 2 day boiler installation, lousy well drillers, lousy attorney advice, refusal by a plumbing supplier to refund moneys for unused plumbing parts that required a call to the NY attorney general and the Connecticut attorney generals office to obtain a refund for this unused part and my share of buying junk that is supposed to work. 

SO just keep in mind the power of the pen whether to honda, the honda dealer, the attorney general with regard to a honda highlighted warranty repair and spending the time with a good attorney to mail the dealer a letter just shows that you mean what you say AND no matter how much whining they do they have to do the repair.

The same week I bought the CCR3000 from my Toro dealer I had trouble with the chute and that was because the base of the plastic casting for the chute was too thick and they took the old chute off and put the new one on the same day and I have not had any trouble with it since I bought it. 


I would at least spend a half hour with an attorney and ask them to write a letter to honda and the local dealer after doing the above. 




I hate being lied to for a lot of reasons.:hellno:


----------



## nafterclifen

For as cheap as the new chute is, just pay for it out of pocket and be done with it. It will save possible aggravation, transport time and costs (i.e. gas), etc.

If you're doing the dance with out dealer over a chute, you have way too much time and patience. Cut them off, completely. Spend $30 and enjoy the better things in life.


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## leonz

Yes!!!


:bowing::bowing::rock::icon-cheers:


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## nZone

nafterclifen said:


> For as cheap as the new chute is, just pay for it out of pocket and be done with it. It will save possible aggravation, transport time and costs (i.e. gas), etc.
> 
> If you're doing the dance with out dealer over a chute, you have way too much time and patience. Cut them off, completely. Spend $30 and enjoy the better things in life.


I've just cancelled my order. The new chute costs $26.95, ups shipping $29. Shipping is more expensive than the item itself.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


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## dadnjesse

John Liapis said:


> I went to Maestranzi Bros. here in Beverly Ma. This state is where the whole clog gate began. They were in the dark about bulletin 30&31. They are hesitant to do any bulletin work on our snowblowers because corporate is difficult to work with and pay low wages to the repair shops. Also, when I did drop off my snowblower to get the chute replacement, I was told that I first have to call corporate to have my problem-complaint verified and proven before any bulletin work was approved. There are a lot of moving parts here that make these simple fixes timely and stressful to the consumer, and in the meantime, its hurting Honda’s reputation. I feel if Yamaha could begin to sell their snowblowers here in America, the competition would light a fire under the asses of Honda to get their act together and fix some of these issues before it reaches the public.


I bought mine from Naults in Windham NH. I Dropped it off for the new chute and the Transmission speed issue and had it back in 6 days, and they had to order the parts. I was one of the first ones on here to get it done. That dealer in Beverly is full of crap. 
.


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## jrom

Did you check with your dealer if you could order parts through them? Mine has the new chute for $30.53, $32.36 with tax, no shipping. 

You may want to check with them.




nZone said:


> I've just cancelled my order. The new chute costs $26.95, ups shipping $29. Shipping is more expensive than the item itself.
> 
> Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


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## tabora

nZone said:


> I've just cancelled my order. The new chute costs $26.95, ups shipping $29. Shipping is more expensive than the item itself.


I think you ordered it from the wrong place... https://www.tmsparts.com has them for $26.55 + $9.99 UPS = $36.54


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## nZone

tabora said:


> I think you ordered it from the wrong place... https://www.tmsparts.com has them for $26.55 + $9.99 UPS = $36.54


That is the place i ordered. That was the price, but they contacted me about shipping change because of large shipping box.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


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## tabora

nZone said:


> That is the place i ordered. That was the price, but they contacted me about shipping change because of large shipping box.


Don't think that's legal... They better fix their web site.


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## TomHodge

Called my dealer regarding the new chute. They ordered it and when it came in we set up a day for them to pick the blower up, next day it was done and returned.


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## relaycruz

Since the replacement chute is not very expensive after people here have shared the part numbers, I would rather wait and buy/install myself if I feel I need it. Then I have a second chute to experiment with if I so desire. I have to be honest though, my HSS1332 was so strong in the wet stuff I really started to question how there are so many complaints. I tried very hard to get it to clog but couldn't, and the last/first storm of the season was as wet and heavy as I will ever see. I believe all the complaints, but I can also see why some people have zero problems.


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## dhazelton

Read through MOST of this thread (it goes way off track with jetting issues) and just want to ask - is there a serial number/model year range for this? I have a 2006 HSS724 that is pretty much worthless when the temperature starts climbing fast above 32 and the snow starts packing down...


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## leonz

This thread does not go off track and derail. 
These engines have been reduced in power and CC's in some cases to comply with the EPA guidelines for power equipment emmissions just like the small diesels have been degraded with messing with the fuel ratios and the rediculous use of urea for pollution control where oxygen catalyst pellets(hopcalyte pellets) or catalytic subtrate purifiers have been used for years as a methodology to purify the engine exhaust on small propain, gas and diesel engines


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## dhazelton

My engine runs just fine bone stock. And that doesn't answer my question.


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## LoganH

dhazelton said:


> My engine runs just fine bone stock. And that doesn't answer my question.


 My 928 I bought last year was junk, until I got the new chute. Now it's a great blower. Night and day difference.


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## leonz

One of the fine members here has posted the information related to the plugging issue and the part numbers for the new chutes, I just cannot remember exactly where it is.


If your near sea level in altitude that does make difference in engine performance. 
The air pressure is greater at sea level and the engine does not have to work as hard eating combustion air and fuel and making torque at high idle. 

I live 1,140 feet above sea level and the bottom of the valley is 432 feet above sea level and you always notice when your ears are plugged up and you can hear the noise the partially filled water bottles make when you decrease in altitude when traveling down hill hearing the bottle compress and when you climb back up to 1140 feet above sea level you hear the plastic bottle pop back to size.


If anything you can use car wax or aerosol Fluid Film spray on everything that contacts snow to aid in clearing it off.

If you make your first pass to the END OF DRIVEWAY monster and clear that by blowing it into the ditch on the passing side of the driveway and feed the moat monsters they will be happy and you can flush the salt out of the snow blower when making the succeeding passes in the fresh snow that has no salt in it.

Snow fall that is always compacted from melting and harder to remove and 
it requires patience and half cuts when its really warm out.

Installing larger jets always helps by giving you more power and torque BUT if the belts and or if the rubber drive wheel is worn that also affects the performance of the snow mule.

If your wrap your hand around the V belt(s) and you come away with having rubber dust in your palm its best to chuck the V belts in the circular file and purchase the green kevlar V belts as they are much more shock resistant. 

If your scraping rubber off the drive pulley you need a new rubber drive wheel if you have that type of snow mule.


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## SkunkyLawnmowers

dhazelton said:


> Read through MOST of this thread (it goes way off track with jetting issues) and just want to ask - is there a serial number/model year range for this? I have a 2006 HSS724 that is pretty much worthless when the temperature starts climbing fast above 32 and the snow starts packing down...


You mean a 2016, right?

I had bad clogging issues with my 724 in the last slushy storm of March 2018. 

I have gone the impeller modification route first to see if that makes a difference. I made a dedicated thread about the mod. 

I may or may not install the new chute as well, depending on the difference the impeller mod makes.


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## SkunkyLawnmowers

dhazelton said:


> Read through MOST of this thread (it goes way off track with jetting issues) and just want to ask - is there a serial number/model year range for this? I have a 2006 HSS724 that is pretty much worthless when the temperature starts climbing fast above 32 and the snow starts packing down...


Regarding your question - do you mean is there a range of manufacture affected by the clogging??

If so, then no. 

The clogging issue seems hit and miss across the HSS range. Honda brought out the modified chutes relatively recently in an attempt to address the issue. It's still early days to tell how effective the mod has been, but, at least to me, it seems as though more people are reporting that it's helped than hasn't.

My own feeling is that clog problems start in the impeller housing and build from there, which is why I am trying out my impeller modification first. 

I have a theory to account for why 2 seemingly identical machines can have different problems in the same snow conditions. Things like small differences in the run out and true of the bucket / impeller housing can make a big difference in impeller efiiciency, as can the jetting issue, the effects of which can be more prounounced according to differences in air pressure I.E. height above sea level etc. I feel there are some other variables, too. 

The point is is that I think the clogging issue can often be due to several factors which then makes it hard to correct and to conduct comparitive tests across similar models and snow conditions.


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## tabora

dhazelton said:


> Read through MOST of this thread (it goes way off track with jetting issues) and just want to ask - is there a serial number/model year range for this? I have a 2006 HSS724 that is pretty much worthless when the temperature starts climbing fast above 32 and the snow starts packing down...


 If it's a 2006 it's an HS724, not an HSS724. That machine may have had a larger jet and did have a more open chute design. If it's actually a 2016 HSS724, see Service Bulletin #31. There was also a SB #30 for ground speed issues - check your serial number against the affected range as listed - both SBs are attached.

The other part of the fix is upping the main jet size; don't ignore that.


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## YSHSfan

tabora said:


> If it's a 2006 it's an HS724, not an HSS724. That machine may have had a larger jet and did have a more open chute design. If it's actually a 2016 HSS724, see Service Bulletin #31. There was also a SB #30 for ground speed issues - check your serial number against the affected range as listed - both SBs are attached.
> 
> The other part of the fix is upping the main jet size; don't ignore that.


If in Canada, they started calling HSS series blowers to the made in Japan units before they were redesigned and built in US. 

I do not know when Japanese HSS series were introduced in Canada.


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## tabora

YSHSfan said:


> If in Canada, they started calling HSS series blowers to the made in Japan units before they were redesigned and built in US.
> 
> I do not know when Japanese HSS series were introduced in Canada.


Yeah, unfortunately he doesn't have his location in his profile...


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## Snowbelt_subie

man i would have just cut the collar off the chute and throw some honda red paint on it call it a day..... thats just me though.


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## Angelo

Thanks for you're info, Robert. I brought my hs724 to the dealer for not being able to start problem. Seems sitting in my garage during summer caused condensation and ruined carburetor. My "old" Honda (20+ years old) never had this problem. (Started 1st or 2nd pull every time.) Needs a new carburetor and Dealer said not covered by warranty. (Will cost me in the tune of about $220! 

I mentioned that I had a horrendous clogging problem last year and told me about your fix at no charge since it's still under warranty. He said if serial number match then Honda will replace the chute assy. The serial number is irrevelant since it's still under warranty (bought 11/02/2017). Is my assumption correct? He is waiting for approval from Honda before making the fix.


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## cwolcott

tabora said:


> I think you ordered it from the wrong place... https://www.tmsparts.com has them for $26.55 + $9.99 UPS = $36.54


That's what I paid too from tms, same as tabora.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## dadnjesse

Angelo said:


> I mentioned that I had a horrendous clogging problem last year and told me about your fix at no charge since it's still under warranty. He said if serial number match then Honda will replace the chute assy. The serial number is irrevelant since it's still under warranty (bought 11/02/2017). Is my assumption correct? He is waiting for approval from Honda before making the fix.


The clogging problem is not serial number related, It's certain models.


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## jrom

I would put a stop order on the dealer replacing your carburetor and buy an OEM version for under $56 (US) and do it yourself. The carb is the same for an HS724 or HSS724. Your "old" gaskets are probably just fine.

An aftermarket carb can be had for under $23. I'd go OE if it's still under warranty.



Angelo said:


> Thanks for you're info, Robert. I brought my hs724 to the dealer for not being able to start problem. Seems sitting in my garage during summer caused condensation and ruined carburetor. My "old" Honda (20+ years old) never had this problem. (Started 1st or 2nd pull every time.) Needs a new carburetor and Dealer said not covered by warranty. (Will cost me in the tune of about $220!
> 
> I mentioned that I had a horrendous clogging problem last year and told me about your fix at no charge since it's still under warranty. He said if serial number match then Honda will replace the chute assy. The serial number is irrevelant since it's still under warranty (bought 11/02/2017). Is my assumption correct? He is waiting for approval from Honda before making the fix.


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## nZone

cwolcott said:


> That's what I paid too from tms, same as tabora.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


So you are saying they were trying to pull a quick one on me? They said it is $20 additional ups shipping fee due to oversize shipment, and for the trouble, they can split the additional fee 50/50. 

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


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## nZone

Angelo said:


> Thanks for you're info, Robert. I brought my hs724 to the dealer for not being able to start problem. Seems sitting in my garage during summer caused condensation and ruined carburetor. My "old" Honda (20+ years old) never had this problem. (Started 1st or 2nd pull every time.) Needs a new carburetor and Dealer said not covered by warranty. (Will cost me in the tune of about $220!


I always use TruFuel and never had a problem. It is ethanol-free fuel that is being sold in 32-oz and 110-oz container. No fuel stabilizer needed. 

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


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## cwolcott

nZone said:


> So you are saying they were trying to pull a quick one on me? They said it is $20 additional ups shipping fee due to oversize shipment, and for the trouble, they can split the additional fee 50/50.
> 
> Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


I just checked my PayPal account to be sure. They charged me $26.55 for the chute and $9.99 for the shipping.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## nZone

cwolcott said:


> I just checked my PayPal account to be sure. They charged me $26.55 for the chute and $9.99 for the shipping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


Maybe it is more expensive shipping across the country to NE? Here is the snapshot of invoice. Look in the middle section where it stated to contact the customer for additional shipping fee. ...I deleted the names involved.








Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


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## SkunkyLawnmowers

nZone said:


> I always use TruFuel and never had a problem. It is ethanol-free fuel that is being sold in 32-oz and 110-oz container. No fuel stabilizer needed.
> 
> Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


Trufuel has been great for me, too. 

Lasts 2 years once put in the tank or 5 years if tin unopened. 

Put 50oz, about half a tin, in your tank and let it run for about 10 minutes to let everything cycle through. 

I got mine from Lowes. It's expensive but your snowblower will start when you need it and no need for adding stabiliser. Plus, it can be stored with the Triufuel in the system during the off season, although I drain my system down anyway.


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## Miles

SkunkyLawnmowers said:


> Trufuel has been great for me, too.
> 
> Lasts 2 years once put in the tank or 5 years if tin unopened.
> 
> Put 50oz, about half a tin, in your tank and let it run for about 10 minutes to let everything cycle through.
> 
> I got mine from Lowes. It's expensive but your snowblower will start when you need it and no need for adding stabiliser. Plus, it can be stored with the Triufuel in the system during the off season, although I drain my system down anyway.


I used to use Trufuel until I went to www.pure-gas.org and found a station selling ethanol-free gas for $3.49/gal. I use 5 gallon VR racing fuel jugs and recently filled up 2 of those. I added some Stabil fuel stabilizer because I'll store that gas for years and thought it might prevent deterioration. I saved my Trufuel cans and filled them up with a funnel.


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## rslifkin

Realistically, just about any gas (even with ethanol) stores well if it's stabilized and kept in a well sealed container (like an airtight jerry can). It's when it sits in a half-full well vented tank or a carb bowl and can absorb a bunch of moisture (as well as evaporate off some of its components) that problems start.


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## relaycruz

Any Marine Stabil or equivalent will keep your gas and equipment in top condition. No need to fret over ethanol free (good luck to most of us finding it). I stabilize my gas year round and never have to worry about ethanol related problems or draining anything. I do drain my equipment that has a convenient float bowl drain screw like Honda has because it's so easy.


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## rslifkin

relaycruz said:


> Any Marine Stabil or equivalent will keep your gas and equipment in top condition. No need to fret over ethanol free (good luck to most of us finding it). I stabilize my gas year round and never have to worry about ethanol related problems or draining anything. I do drain my equipment that has a convenient float bowl drain screw like Honda has because it's so easy.


Yeah, I run stabilizer in all of my fuel and equipment all gets stored with the tank topped off. Last shutdown of the season I close the fuel valve with it running, blast fogging oil into the carb intake to stall it out and then if there's an easy way to drain the bit of fuel left in the carb bowl, I do.


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## dadnjesse

nZone said:


> I always use TruFuel and never had a problem. It is ethanol-free fuel that is being sold in 32-oz and 110-oz container. No fuel stabilizer needed.
> 
> Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


I get the 5 gallon from Napa

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SME6202


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## dadnjesse

Miles said:


> I used to use Trufuel until I went to www.pure-gas.org and found a station selling ethanol-free gas for $3.49/gal. I use 5 gallon VR racing fuel jugs and recently filled up 2 of those. I added some Stabil fuel stabilizer because I'll store that gas for years and thought it might prevent deterioration. I saved my Trufuel cans and filled them up with a funnel.


Wish I could find that around me, the only ethanol free gas they have in my area is 110 octane leaded racing fuel.


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## Miles

I had problems starting a Honda generator (EU2000i) stored with ethanol gas and stabilizer in it. The shop showed me how to drain the carb bowl after each use with a small screw on the bottom of the carb. I use only ethanol-free gas in it now. I drain the carb after each use, but do not drain the tank since there is ethanol-free gas in it.


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## tabora

dadnjesse said:


> Wish I could find that around me, the only ethanol free gas they have in my area is 110 octane leaded racing fuel.


Where in NH are you? There's quite a list of locations here: https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=NH


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## dadnjesse

tabora said:


> Where in NH are you? There's quite a list of locations here: https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=NH


I use the same app. The Manchester one I just checked, they sell the little bottles not worth it.
I'm in Raymond NH


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## cwolcott

nZone said:


> Maybe it is more expensive shipping across the country to NE? Here is the snapshot of invoice. Look in the middle section where it stated to contact the customer for additional shipping fee. ...I deleted the names involved.
> View attachment 148915
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk


What's really odd is they attribute the dxtra $10 to being an oversized item. Isn't it the same exact chute tabora and I each ordered? Can't be oversized for some and not others.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## marklang

I have followed this forum with great attention, and recently ordered a new HSS1332ATD based on what I saw there. Unfortunately, Honda is refusing to replace the chute on the new unit (which is coming from stock) before I get it. They said that the problem is only present in certain regions. Once I get the machine, if I can demonstrate problems, they will replace it. The first time I get out in wet snow I am going to be very unhappy. Does anyone have any experience about how to press Honda on this? It seems like poor customer service -- not what many here have experienced. What's up with Honda?


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## 132619

cwolcott said:


> What's really odd is they attribute the dxtra $10 to being an oversized item. Isn't it the same exact chute tabora and I each ordered? Can't be oversized for some and not others.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


if you check.UPS goes by the size of the box l x w x d not what it really weighs,i just made a order from the bolt depot in mass, $6.98 2nd day via USPS, $18.00 via UPS. ground


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## Miles

Yes, I had to justify my experience with clogging to Honda after my dealership called them. I said that the HSS928 was clogging in wet snow, yet the snow was not that wet, just good snowball making snow. I said that I was surprised because the snow simply was not that wet when the machine clogged. I live near the water and the snow is wetter here, so I told them that too. This justification worked and I have the new chute now.


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## cwolcott

I just loaded up my hss928 this weekend with a healthy helping of Fluid Film based on all the positive comments here. One thing I don't think I saw mentioned was the stuff will make your garage smell like a swine farm.  Yowza that stuff stinks. Don't know yet how much it helps as the storm we were supposed to get here in SE WI just missed us by only a few miles.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


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## Miles

cwolcott said:


> I just loaded up my hss928 this weekend with a healthy helping of Fluid Film based on all the positive comments here. One thing I don't think I saw mentioned was the stuff will make your garage smell like a swine farm.  Yowza that stuff stinks. Don't know yet how much it helps as the storm we were supposed to get here in SE WI just missed us by only a few miles.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


This is the smell of lanolin:
Lanolin (from Latin lāna 'wool', and oleum 'oil'), also called wool wax or wool grease, is a wax secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals. Lanolin used by humans comes from domestic sheep breeds that are raised specifically for their wool.
From Wikipedia


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## LittleBill

go spray your entire truck with it, then start it, people thought my truck was on fire driving it the first time i did the undercoating.


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## Bob_S

cwolcott said:


> that stuff stinks.


Recently I got my HHS back from the dealer for the chute "upgrade" and now, without question, it is giving off a strange odor. (not gas, plastic or electrical) I thought it might be some grease for the chute. I can't see why a dealer would use something like Fluid Film but now I wonder. What else could it be?


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## leonz

If they did use Fluid Film it would smell like DL hand cleaner and the snow will be ejected even further.


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## relaycruz

marklang said:


> I have followed this forum with great attention, and recently ordered a new HSS1332ATD based on what I saw there. Unfortunately, Honda is refusing to replace the chute on the new unit (which is coming from stock) before I get it. They said that the problem is only present in certain regions. Once I get the machine, if I can demonstrate problems, they will replace it. The first time I get out in wet snow I am going to be very unhappy. Does anyone have any experience about how to press Honda on this? It seems like poor customer service -- not what many here have experienced. What's up with Honda?


I live on the East Coast (Salem, MA) which is a region where the clogging allegedly occurs. I couldn't get my HSS1332 to clog by purposefully trying. Not even close. My old Ariens Pro 28 would clog through the stuff I put the Honda through, yet the Honda was flawless. No way I'm ordering the new chute now because I don't want problems with the over-spray now being complained about with the new chute. My advice is to actually test it out yourself before you read all these posts about clogging because in my experience it doesn't. Now that I've re-jet with a .0425 I have zero worries.


----------



## cwolcott

Bob_S said:


> Recently I got my HHS back from the dealer for the chute "upgrade" and now, without question, it is giving off a strange odor. (not gas, plastic or electrical) I thought it might be some grease for the chute. I can't see why a dealer would use something like Fluid Film but now I wonder. What else could it be?


I'm at a loss for what it might be. Have you asked them what they may have done that is creating the odor?

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## Letit Snow

As a point of interest I was at my honda dealer today and he just received his new order of snowblowers. All the blowers had the old style chute except the 7 hp. units. The four 7-24 units he received had the new cut out chute.


----------



## jrom

Mind letting us know where your location is? 



Letit Snow said:


> As a point of interest I was at my honda dealer today and he just received his new order of snowblowers. All the blowers had the old style chute except the 7 hp. units. The four 7-24 units he received had the new cut out chute.


----------



## Letit Snow

This dealer is in Erie Pa. lake effect snow in the tri state area can be wet and heavy. When I bought my 1332 a month ago he told me about the new chute. He said if it clogs take a picture of it and he would get the replacement. He also said he has well over 20 1332 units sold and has had no complaints..we have had 12 or so inches of wet snow so far and I have no clogging yet....


----------



## SimplicitySolid22

So is the old chute the good one or the new chute???


----------



## joeblowct

I was at my dealer today and same thing. 724 on the floor had new chute 928 did not. This is in CT


----------



## leonz

Letit Snow said:


> This dealer is in Erie Pa. lake effect snow in the tri state area can be wet and heavy. When I bought my 1332 a month ago he told me about the new chute. He said if it clogs take a picture of it and he would get the replacement. He also said he has well over 20 1332 units sold and has had no complaints..we have had 12 or so inches of wet snow so far and I have no clogging yet....





======================================================================================================


Hello Letit Snow,


Adding the new chute will only help you as over time the chute becomes a heat sink while clearing and the conical weldment is a friction point slowing down the discharge.



Be sure to go to your local NAPA store and purchase a couple aerosol cans of Fluid Film to coat everything that contacts snow to make it slicker and if possible let it dry between coats. Be sure to keep the Fluid Film in a warm place so you can shake the can and mix it more thoroughly as the nozzle will clog otherwise.


----------



## partypants

leonz said:


> ======================================================================================================
> 
> 
> Hello Letit Snow,
> 
> 
> Adding the new chute will only help you as over time the chute becomes a heat sink


Forgive my ignorance, but what does this even mean?


----------



## RIT333

partypants said:


> Forgive my ignorance, but what does this even mean?



I think he is implying that the restriction in the partial cone will cause extra unneeded friction with the snow passing through it that it heat up the snow, turn it to water, and then re-freeze into ice...or something along those lines !


----------



## partypants

RIT333 said:


> I think he is implying that the restriction in the partial cone will cause extra unneeded friction with the snow passing through it that it heat up the snow, turn it to water, and then re-freeze into ice...or something along those lines !


The clogging only occurs with snow that's already melting(wet, heavy watery slop). It's already slop before it ever enters the chute(not after), so that theory is out imo. 

Keeping it simple, the collar is a bottleneck and once it starts catching a bit of that sticky slop - it can then create a "snowballing" effect and plug up. 
Having said that, I don't have a problem with my snowblower in that regard. In fact, I have cleared snow without issue when others in my neighbourhood have put their snowblower away and turned to their shovel..


----------



## tabora

RIT333 said:


> I think he is implying that the restriction in the partial cone will cause extra unneeded friction with the snow passing through it that it heat up the snow, turn it to water, and then re-freeze into ice...or something along those lines !


May be the Venturi effect, where a semi-fluid passing through a constriction has a slight temperature rise and then a temperature loss on the other side that causes it to freeze?


----------



## drmerdp

partypants said:


> The clogging only occurs with snow that's already melting(wet, heavy watery slop). It's already slop before it ever enters the chute(not after), so that theory is out imo.
> 
> Keeping it simple, the collar is a bottleneck and once it starts catching a bit of that sticky slop - it can then create a "snowballing" effect and plug up.
> Having said that, I don't have a problem with my snowblower in that regard. In fact, I have cleared snow without issue when others in my neighbourhood have put their snowblower away and turned to their shovel..


Leonz is a technical kind of guy... but yeah.

Basically starts with low velocity snow that is further impieded by the collar which rapidly accumulates into a clog.


----------



## Railbender

leonz said:


> ======================================================================================================
> 
> 
> Hello Letit Snow,
> 
> 
> Adding the new chute will only help you as over time the chute becomes a heat sink while clearing and the conical weldment is a friction point slowing down the discharge.
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to go to your local NAPA store and purchase a couple aerosol cans of Fluid Film to coat everything that contacts snow to make it slicker and if possible let it dry between coats. Be sure to keep the Fluid Film in a warm place so you can shake the can and mix it more thoroughly as the nozzle will clog otherwise.



If his dealer is Forest Park just go back to the service area, they carry it. They sell/service snow plows and the plow jockeys go through a lot of it.


----------



## tabora

tabora said:


> Originally Posted by *tabora*
> _ On 10/12/2018 - I just dropped my HSS1332ATD off this morning for both of the Service Bulletins as well. Hope mine goes as quickly as yours did. The dealer (in Scarborough, Maine) said that I am the first clogging report they've ever had. I checked all the HSSs in the showroom (20+) and none of them had the modified chute, either._
> 
> Bummer... I checked with the dealership today on the progress on the Service Bulletins, since it's been 14 days since I dropped it off. Both of their service techs were injured in an accident, and only the service manager has been working on the service backlog for the past several weeks. Looks like about 2 more weeks until my blower gets updated. Hope the snow holds off; we're getting some at my cottage tomorrow, but that's 50 miles inland from me.


 Hallelujah! I just picked up my HSS1332ATD from the dealer. _*8 weeks from when I dropped it off.*_ Nothing had occurred after over 6 weeks, so I wrote to Honda Customer Service and asked if there was anything they could do to assist with the ransoming of my blower. Voila! Service bulletins approved and parts expedited... Apparently Honda had to pull mine from the assembly line and expedite it, since the HSS1332ATD chutes are now on back-order. Let It Snow!

Several new 724s and 928s in the dealership had the modified chute.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

Good work, tabora, and glad to hear you got everythingt sorted out, and that the shop_ finally_ pulled their proverbial finger out......


----------



## Nshusky

tabora said:


> Hallelujah! I just picked up my HSS1332ATD from the dealer. _*8 weeks from when I dropped it off.*_ Nothing had occurred after over 6 weeks, so I wrote to Honda Customer Service and asked if there was anything they could do to assist with the ransoming of my blower. Voila! Service bulletins approved and parts expedited... Apparently Honda had to pull mine from the assembly line and expedite it, since the HSS1332ATD chutes are now on back-order. Let It Snow!
> 
> Several new 724s and 928s in the dealership had the modified chute.


Good news, so if the modified chute is now the permanent replacement and production part for the 1332 then hopefully I can order one here in Canada at some point in the future.
Was down in Bangor last week on business and was going to drop by the Honda ope dealer but heard the chutes were backordered.


----------



## partypants

Nshusky said:


> Good news, so if the modified chute is now the permanent replacement and production part for the 1332 then hopefully I can order one here in Canada at some point in the future.


I bought one on boats.net for $35US shipped to Canada. Installed it last weekend.


----------



## Halfatrack

Got my HSS928 back from dealer installed new cut down chute. Has not snowed since. That's a good thing.
A little test yesterday. It was 39 degrees out. Warmed machine up. about 10 minutes Just over idle. Than ran machine with auger engaged for 15 minutes. 
Checked engine RPMs NO load Max speed = 3480 rpms.
checked engine rpms with auger engaged = 3515 rpms. first engaged auger went to 3555rpms, settled to 3515 rpms stayed there. a little low.


Engine rpms checked with a Fast Tach hand held. Accuracy-+ - 10 rpm to + - 20 720* mode. I was running 720 mode. Could not get a reading in 360* mode.???
I will do more to check the settings later?


----------



## ThumperACC

Halfatrack said:


> I was running 720 mode. Could not get a reading in 360* mode.???
> I will do more to check the settings later?


It is a single cylinder, 4 stroke engine. It only fires every other revolution (720 degrees).

Thumper


----------



## RIT333

partypants said:


> I bought one on boats.net for $35US shipped to Canada. Installed it last weekend.



It is interesting how cheap the HSS chutes are. I looked at that Website, and the HS chutes were at least 2x the price of an HSS. Seems odd.


----------



## DriverRider

ThumperACC said:


> It is a single cylinder, 4 stroke engine. It only fires every other revolution (720 degrees).
> Thumper



That would be a true statement if the spark were driven off the camshaft like an old school car. The small air cooled engine uses the flywheel magnets once every revolution for spark, a wasted spark system.


----------



## Stephen0523

I live in Prince Edward Island Canada and we had some wet snow a Couple weeks ago and I had two clogs. Spoke to the dealer and he said there're no service calls here so I the new machines have the modified Shute . Not being a hard-core engineer but I think it would be interesting if the shute could be modified to leave the coliar off or on to test some sort of door for a sliding mechanism.


----------



## Aviator

I just got my new improved chute via mail order. If you compare them side by side, the modified area of the new chute is just the old "funnel" with some material cut away. I guess Honda did not want to reprogram the robot welder because all four the welds are in the exact same spot. The top welds are in the path of the snow with about a half inch of metal at a 45 degree angle to deflect the snow to the other side. This, I think, is the cause of the "side spray" issue some have reported.

Simplicity of manufacture seems to be playing a part here. This weld should have been moved out to the leading edge of the chute rather than an inch and a half into the snow stream. If I get snow in the face by moving the chute 90 degrees right, the area pictured will get a visit from Mister Angle Grinder to remove as much of the obstruction as practical. I'll give it a fair test first.


----------



## leonz

Fire up the angle grinder!!!! The older models HS never had any of that accessory metal crap


----------



## Aviator

Thanks leonz. I will wait until I give it a good test in the snow before I start grinding. I won’t “fix” it unless it proves itself broken. ;-) But the picture I posted above does look like it might behave like a thumb on a garden hose. I will post my results if I come up with anything worthwhile.


----------



## leonz

Buy some Fluid Film aerosol spray and use a blue shop towel to rub it in to the metal in several coats and let it dry between coats.

Give every thing else that contacts snow a light spray coating letting it dry between coats and then you can destroy the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTER and feed the moat monsters at your place or the down hill neighbors side fat and happy.

When you make your first pass do it on the uphill side and then you can get rid of the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTER by blowing the remains on the down hillside/the side (where the plow passes your home away from you) and then you can go back and reverse and keep blowing the crap away from the uphill/opposite side to keep the snow/salt slush EODM mess from being pushed back into the driveway. 

Make one pass and go back to make the next pass only blowing it in one direction to keep the salt crap on the downhill side. The Moat Monsters have no trouble with too much salt in their diets so no worries there.


----------



## Cgreencorn1

Stephen0523 said:


> I live in Prince Edward Island Canada and we had some wet snow a Couple weeks ago and I had two clogs. Spoke to the dealer and he said there're no service calls here so I the new machines have the modified Shute . Not being a hard-core engineer but I think it would be interesting if the shute could be modified to leave the coliar off or on to test some sort of door for a sliding mechanism.


Hello from PEI aswell. The pictures you posted are they from the C'Town dealer?? I checked in summerside with no luck. Even gave them the SB number and pics. So far no issues with mine and its been wet snow.


----------



## Stephen0523

Hello Cgreencorn1.
Yes I phone who was taken on Friday December 7 at Centennial Honda in Charlottetown.


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## Jae0

To my Canadian brethren; I reached out to Honda Canada customer relations and had a “mediation specialist” call me back the other day re: the clogging concerns. I got the “Honda Canada and Honda USA are separate entities” talk, but he said that the more (Canadian customers) that call in and describe their clogging concerns, the better. But make sure on your call that you want your concerns noted as “feedback” in their systems instead of their default “customer inquiry”. This pushes things (apparently) further up the chain. Unless a large group of us all voice our concerns and describe a condition similar to that experienced in the NE USA, and express our frustration that a US resolution is now in place for previously sold units and we don’t, nothing is going to happen for us. 

From a Honda Canada Customer Mediation Specialist: “as we discussed, I would recommend having any colleagues who would also like to voice this concern, call Honda Canada Customer Relations dept. directly at 1 888 946 6329 and create a negative feedback case towards the product and the American update made available (similar to yourself) “


----------



## Nshusky

partypants said:


> I bought one on boats.net for $35US shipped to Canada. Installed it last weekend.


Would you mind telling me the part number you used for the new modified chute?
All I see on their website is a listing for the current non modified chute for my 1332atd.

Thanks


----------



## tabora

Nshusky said:


> Would you mind telling me the part number you used for the new modified chute?
> All I see on their website is a listing for the current non modified chute for my 1332atd.


Double articulated chute: 76310-V45-C31ZA
Single articulated chute: 76310-V45-A01ZA


----------



## Nshusky

tabora said:


> Double articulated chute: 76310-V45-C31ZA
> Single articulated chute: 76310-V45-A01ZA


Thanks.
Boats.net has the 76310-V45-C30ZA which is the non modified chute listed for the HSS1332ATD

https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda/snow-blower/hss1332a-atd-vin-safa-1000001/chuter-2

The poster I quoted above (partypants) said they bought the modified chute from boats so I am confused as even the new part number you posted comes back “part not found” on their site. Just wondering if you have to call them direct or some other process.
Local Honda dealer still cannot get the new number to work in Canada yet.


----------



## Jae0

Nshusky said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Boats.net has the 76310-V45-C30ZA which is the non modified chute listed for the HSS1332ATD
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda/snow-blower/hss1332a-atd-vin-safa-1000001/chuter-2
> 
> 
> 
> The poster I quoted above (partypants) said they bought the modified chute from boats so I am confused as even the new part number you posted comes back “part not found” on their site. Just wondering if you have to call them direct or some other process.
> 
> Local Honda dealer still cannot get the new number to work in Canada yet.




The part number wont come up in Honda Canada’s systems. They don’t acknowledge the issue nor the replacement part. See my post (#239) above in this topic.


----------



## FullThrottle

You say the part number for the New Chute upgrade, regarding the clogging issue,doesn't show up on the Honda Canada website and Honda Canada is saying there is no problem with clogging.I guess I will have to get my dealer to use mine when we get the wet type of snow again.


----------



## Jae0

FullThrottle said:


> You say the part number for the New Chute upgrade, regarding the clogging issue,doesn't show up on the Honda Canada website and Honda Canada is saying there is no problem with clogging.I guess I will have to get my dealer to use mine when we get the wet type of snow again.




Taking to the dealer is fine, but filing negative feedback with Honda Canada is what is needed most, and it needs to done by more than a few of us.


----------



## FullThrottle

Thanks for the number,I was in contact with Honda Canada shortly after, I purchased mine last November/2017,at that time they told me they had no complains.I am curious if my phone call was registered as a complaint.I will phone again and have mine put on the clogging list if it's not already recorded with Honda Canada.Anyone know the part number for the HSS928AC


----------



## Jae0

FullThrottle said:


> Thanks for the number,I was in contact with Honda Canada shortly after, I purchased mine last November/2017,at that time they told me they had no complains.I am curious if my phone call was registered as a complaint.I will phone again and have mine put on the clogging list if it's not already recorded with Honda Canada.Anyone know the part number for the HSS928AC




Part number for the new chutes? They’re listed in post #241 and depend on if you’ve got the double or single-articulated chute. In Canada that means electric start model or non-es respectively.


----------



## foggysail

Does Ariens accept Hondas for trade ins? :sad2:


Just joking guys, just joking


----------



## Nshusky

foggysail said:


> Does Ariens accept Hondas for trade ins? :sad2:
> 
> 
> Just joking guys, just joking


Must be so comforting to keep looking down on us poor dumb Honda owners while owning a “perfect” Ariens. Lucky you.


----------



## FullThrottle

I was in contact with the Dealer where I purchased my HSS928AC from last fall.His reply was that according to Honda Canada we don't have clogging issues,it's only happening in the New England States and Boston area.
We, here in the Atlantic Provinces get the same slushy wet snow as they get in the Boston area.We are only a stone throw away.I thinks everyone in this area should draw up a petition and forward it of to Honda to correct the clogging problems here as they are doing for our neighbors across the border.
I had planed to get rid of mine this year but after reading on here where Honda was sending a group of Engineers to the Boston area to evaluate the problem,I decided to way it out,but it looks like I will have to order one on Ebay ,even though it still has 2 more years of warranty on it.*This Sucks*


----------



## partypants

Nshusky said:


> Must be so comforting to keep looking down on us poor dumb Honda owners while owning a “perfect” Ariens. Lucky you.


That's the trend I've seen since I signed up. And it's only Ariens owners that do it. Stems from an inferiority complex imo. 
I have much respect for the Yammy and Toro folks in that regard!


----------



## Aviator

This Airens/Honda thing is getting old. Both are good machines. Both have their own fan base. But both have their own unique design compromises. Both have flaws. Thank goodness. We get to choose between differing feature sets to pick the features that suit our particular needs the best. Long live the free market!

No machine is perfect. They are all design / price compromises. And some compromises are government induced. Honda has clearly had some design snafu's lately. But those snafu's are all cheap or free and easy to fix. Pick the features you like and let the other guy do the same please. Give it a rest and quit bashing other people's choices. Let's get back to helping EVERYONE make their machines run better.


----------



## partypants

Aviator said:


> Let's get back to helping EVERYONE make their machines run better.


But but, you shouldn't HAVE to do that after spending $3k. - Ariens Guy 

haha sorry had to do it. People expecting perfection for $3k are nuts. But add $5 in mods and it's close! 

You can buy a $20M estate and still find many things to improve upon. 
And then the guy living on Ariens St. would say "****, my $300k house is perfect. You got bent!".

I got news for those on Ariens St., the quest for perfection is never ending! I would go so far as to say it'll never be found because it doesn't exist.


----------



## LDRider

Just my opinion but this is really the major point in choosing any product; pick the product that has (or does not have) the thing(s) you just cannot live without and are not addressable by the end user. For example, if you like wheel (or track) clutches to be manually controlled but want the machine to have a rigid, locked axle the rest of the time, absolutely buy a machine with trigger clutches. The same goes the other way- if you think trigger clutches are unnecessary, cumbersome and just want a machine that turns without any additional inputs, by all means, buy something with some type of differential (including 'autoturn' in here because that is what it is, mostly). A clogging chute can be readily addressed by the user but it is impossible to put wheel clutches on or take them off of a factory machine. Same thing with wheels; not enough traction? Add some chains and watch the huge change and it is less than $100 and is easily done in a half of a day and will last forever. But if you end up with an engine you do not like, for whatever reason, that is far more difficult to impossible to fix. My thought is to always buy the base device with the one, or hopefully two or three things you really think makes a great basic machine and work with that, adding or altering things as needed to tweak it to your own tastes.

Brian



Aviator said:


> <snip>
> 
> But those snafu's are all cheap or free and easy to fix. Pick the features you like and let the other guy do the same please. Give it a rest and quit bashing other people's choices. Let's get back to helping EVERYONE make their machines run better.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

FullThrottle said:


> I was in contact with the Dealer where I purchased my HSS928AC from last fall.His reply was that according to Honda Canada we don't have clogging issues,it's only happening in the New England States and Boston area.
> We, here in the Atlantic Provinces get the same slushy wet snow as they get in the Boston area.We are only a stone throw away.I thinks everyone in this area should draw up a petition and forward it of to Honda to correct the clogging problems here as they are doing for our neighbors across the border.
> I had planed to get rid of mine this year but after reading on here where Honda was sending a group of Engineers to the Boston area to evaluate the problem,I decided to way it out,but it looks like I will have to order one on Ebay ,even though it still has 2 more years of warranty on it.*This Sucks*


A few people who live outside the New England area have had success in obtaining a modified chute by contacting Honda Customer Services and authorising the local dealer to effect the repair. 

Failing that, you can pick up the modified chutes online for around $30 US. I hope you being in CA wouldn't affect the ability to have one shipped to you.......


----------



## FullThrottle

Thanks for your suggestion,I did find a couple places online that sell them,but dosen't ship to Canada.


----------



## JnC

If you are in the metro Toronto area then let me know as you can have the chute shipped to my business and I'll bring it up to Toronto free of charge when I visit around new years/Christmas time.


----------



## Aviator

FullThrottle, If you want Honda Canada to spend the money to fix the problem free, you need a lot of Canadian customers to send written complaints to Honda CA Like the US users did. You are dealing with bureaucrats who need to be burried in paper before they act. And clogging is NOT isolated to New England. But those guys complained in writing quite effectively.

FYI only the new "anti-clog" chute can be purchased from Honda US. The old clog prone chutes and their part nimbers are no longer in the Honda US part system at any price. My guess is the same is now true in Canada. I bought one and installed it myself rather than ship my machine to the dealer in the middle of winter for a free one. Simple install.

Just buy one locally if you must. It is not worth the aggrivation to wait all winter for a free fix Talk to your local Honda dealer and ask him to stand by the product he sold you and give you a discount on the replacement part. You might get lucky if you are polite and persuasive


----------



## tabora

Interestingly, the Honda PE parts lists don't list the new chute part numbers yet, but also have the old ones marked "unavailable"...

Ref No Part Number  Description Serial From Serial To 

001 76310-V45-C30ZA CHUTE *R280* (POWER RED) (NOT AVAILABLE) 1000001 9999999
001 76310-V45-A00ZA CHUTE *R280* (POWER RED) (NOT AVAILABLE) 1000001 9999999


----------



## foggysail

Nshusky said:


> Must be so comforting to keep looking down on us poor dumb Honda owners while owning a “perfect” Ariens. Lucky you.


You seem to be one suffering the greatest. From what I read the Honda has a simple inexpensive fix so why don’t you implement it then YOU can dump on dumb Ariens owners


----------



## FullThrottle

Thanks very much JnC,I'm in Dartmouth NS.a little out of your,but sure appreciate your offer.







JnC said:


> If you are in the metro Toronto area then let me know as you can have the chute shipped to my business and I'll bring it up to Toronto free of charge when I visit around new years/Christmas time.


----------



## FullThrottle

Great advise,it would take care of the aggravation,trying to get one from Honda Canada,since they don't acknowledge we get wet slushy snow here in the Atlantic Provinces.
Don't think I will be able to get one locally,the dealer that I bought it from told me they have new 2019 models on the floor with the same chute that's on my 2018.I did check Boats.net but apparently they only ship Stateside. 







Aviator said:


> FullThrottle, If you want Honda Canada to spend the money to fix the problem free, you need a lot of Canadian customers to send written complaints to Honda CA Like the US users did. You are dealing with bureaucrats who need to be burried in paper before they act. And clogging is NOT isolated to New England. But those guys complained in writing quite effectively.
> 
> FYI only the new "anti-clog" chute can be purchased from Honda US. The old clog prone chutes and their part nimbers are no longer in the Honda US part system at any price. My guess is the same is now true in Canada. I bought one and installed it myself rather than ship my machine to the dealer in the middle of winter for a free one. Simple install.
> 
> Just buy one locally if you must. It is not worth the aggrivation to wait all winter for a free fix Talk to your local Honda dealer and ask him to stand by the product he sold you and give you a discount on the replacement part. You might get lucky if you are polite and persuasive


----------



## partypants

FullThrottle said:


> I did checl Boats.net but apparently they only ship Stateside.


I am in Canada and have ordered from boats.net many times. They do ship to Canada for very reasonable costs, highly recommended!


----------



## FullThrottle

Thanks I will check it out again,I add a chute to the cart and it only showed shipping to continental states.Maybe I wasn't into the International shipping section.




partypants said:


> I am in Canada and have ordered from boats.net many times. They do ship to Canada for very reasonable costs, highly recommended!


----------



## Aviator

It sounds like Honda Canada is on the defensive over this issue and has moved to prohibit cross border parts shipment by authorized dealers to protect their franchise with Honda. They want you buying only from them. It happens a lo to prevent grey market sales losses. You cannot get a warranty on a Nikon camera in the US unless you buy it thru the Nikon US distributor with a US part number. Honda distributers seem to be following the same tactic by preventing cross border parts sales.

Try this. Go to the Canada Honda website and check the part number on a replacement chute for your machine. See if it is the same as the one you find on hondapowerequipment.com, the US site. Your articulated chute is the same one used in the US on theHDD1332ATD. Part number 76310-V45-C30ZA. If Honda is selling two different chutes in Canada and the US, write a letter to Honda CA and complain. If the Canadian parts depot only carries the new US spec chute part number, you have a case to demand one. 

Good luck.


----------



## contender

Aviator, I don't believe Honda, Canada has stopped the parts, as I have placed several orders to ship to Canada in the last couple weeks from Boats.not...........


----------



## Aviator

Good. I wonder why some are having trouble getting parts shipped to Canada wnen others are not?


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## Freddy Ford

Just returned after being off since last season, and I can't believe this fiasco is still going strong. I almost didn't buy my machine a year ago and actually ordered a RapidTrack but changed my mind after people here convinced me otherwise. I don't know where the members went from last year, but there were a lot of us who had zero problems with clogging with heavy snow. If anyone else is reading all this mumbo-jumbo like I did last year, don't be put off the Honda. It almost cost me my near-perfect machine! I have tried over and over to get mine to clog and can't; this is not a doomsday scenario. And reading how the new chute is only like $30 (which probably put the people on eBay selling modified chutes out of business) just pick one up to experiment with. I'm not, but if I did I wouldn't go through the hassle of a dealer and loose not only my machine for a while during the peak season but my original spare chute in the process, not to mention transportation hassle and risk. My dealer in southern Maine has no machines on the floor with the new chute and no complaints from any HSS customers at all. For those still having difficulties I feel for you, and hope you figure out what's not working for you be it the chute design, technique, whatever. God bless ya.


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## partypants

Aviator said:


> Good. I wonder why some are having trouble getting parts shipped to Canada wnen others are not?


It just depends on who they are dealing with. Some dealers(and retailers in general) don't want to hassle with filling out customs declarations and only ship within the US. It's just extra paperwork, that's all it is. Boats.net is my go-to for this type of stuff to Canada.


----------



## tabora

I was able to run my HSS1332 for the first time today post-Service Bulletins on 4-5" of wet, heavy snow and the usual wall of cement at the roadside.

1. The transmission reservoir did its work, and there were no issues with slowing, even after a 1/2 mile transport run at high speed.
2. The new chute worked perfectly; no signs of snow adhering and very little snow spitting out the side when turned hard right. If there's more spitting with lighter snow, I have a piece of thin cutting board material and commercial-grade Velcro ready for creating a removable shield.

Interestingly, when I fired it up I discovered that the dealer reset the max RPMs to 3300 (was at 3650 when I dropped it off) and then they also forgot to reconnect the headlight after they messed with the speed. I left the speed set as it was and had no issues with bogging at all, so will likely leave it where it is for further testing. 3300 actually looks like a good trade-off between HP & torque, so will be interesting to see whether it handles larger snowfalls OK with the 110 jet.

*Update 01/30/2019: Well, we finally had our first "real" snowstorm of the season. The EOD was a solid 24" - 28" high and about 4 feet into the driveway. Going across the driveway taking a full 32" bite in the middle of the high stuff, the HSS1332 FINALLY bogged down to about 2,500 RPM (peak torque) a couple of times. While it still threw the snow 30-40' back from the road, guess I'm going to put the RPMs back up and see how it compares.*


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## RedOctobyr

Unless you're concerned about the engine coming apart, or avoiding additional wear, I would personally keep to your ~3600 RPM. 

I guess I don't understand/agree with the logic of intentionally lowering the RPM to stay in a higher-torque range. Assume you run 3600, when you overload the engine, it will slow down towards 3300 anyhow, falling into the higher-torque range. So why not get the benefit of 3600 most of the time, since you may end up around 3300 regardless?


----------



## tabora

RedOctobyr said:


> Unless you're concerned about the engine coming apart, or avoiding additional wear, I would personally keep to your ~3600 RPM.
> 
> I guess I don't understand/agree with the logic of intentionally lowering the RPM to stay in a higher-torque range. Assume you run 3600, when you overload the engine, it will slow down towards 3300 anyhow, falling into the higher-torque range. So why not get the benefit of 3600 most of the time, since you may end up around 3300 regardless?


 It's torque that does the work, not HP. HP is about acceleration and high speed. So if it's running at 3300 with 25Nm and slows to 3000 at 26Nm (if that even happens with the 110 jet), I'm starting to think I'm better off than at 3650 with only 22Nm of torque. We'll see...


_Typically, the torque peak will occur at a substantially lower RPM than the power peak. The reason is that, in general, the torque curve does not drop off (%-wise) as rapidly as the RPM is increasing (%-wise). For a race engine, it is often beneficial ( within the boundary conditions of the application ) to operate the engine well beyond the power peak, in order to produce the maximum average power within a required RPM band._

_ However, for an engine which operates in a relatively narrow RPM band, such as a snowblower engine, it is generally a requirement that the engine produce nearly maximum power at the maximum RPM. That requires the torque peak to be fairly close to the maximum RPM. For a snowblower engine, you typically design the torque curve to peak at the normal operating setting and stay as flat as possible up to maximum RPM. That positioning of the torque curve would allow the engine to produce significantly more power if it could operate at a higher RPM, but the goal is to optimize the performance within the operating range._
​


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## ticolaq

interesting video about the couple and the power !


https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=sTBq3bRRQqE


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## RedOctobyr

tabora said:


> It's torque that does the work, not HP. HP is about acceleration. So if it's running at 3300 with 25Nm and slows to 3000 at 26Nm (if that even happens with the 110 jet), I'm starting to think I'm better off than at 3650 with only 22Nm of torque. We'll see...


Forgive me, I don't mean to make it sound like I'm trying to start a fight or anything. Merely having a discussion, and exchanging ideas: 

Say you only need 20Nm of torque for most of your snowblowing work. At 3600, you have enough torque (22Nm available), so you hold at 3600, and the extra RPM means you throw further, and can move more snow per second. 

Now you get to deep stuff, requiring 25Nm. You overload your 3600, and the engine simply slows to 3300 (25Nm available). You lose some throwing distance, etc, but you fall into the added-torque realm of the engine's behavior. There is no downside that I can vs setting your speed at 3300. And under lighter loads, you're getting a performance benefit (throwing distance, etc). 

Mechanical governors aren't perfect, either. On my Tecumseh, I have an audible sag in engine RPM (I think 3600 down to about 3200, from also trying to glance at the tach), but the governor still hasn't opened the throttle plate fully (confirmed by running with cover removed). So with a higher RPM setpoint, maybe you're also helping to guarantee being at full-throttle by the time you've dropped to 3300, etc. 

Again, I'm not trying to start an unpleasant fight or anything. I just, personally, can't figure out the performance benefit to starting at a lower RPM setpoint, when a higher setpoint will still drop you down into that range anyhow, if you overload the engine. 

It seems to me like 3600 offers a benefit when you *can* maintain that RPM, *and* still gives you the torque characteristics of 3300, if you drop down that far anyhow. There doesn't seem like much downside to me from setting it to 3600, but maybe I'm just missing something. And I'm happy to learn.


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## tabora

RedOctobyr said:


> Forgive me, I don't mean to make it sound like I'm trying to start a fight or anything. Merely having a discussion, and exchanging ideas...


 Not fighting... Just stating that since the blower worked *perfectly* today at 3300RPM, I think I'm going to experiment further before arbitrarily putting it back up to 3650, where I have had it since I re-jetted last winter. Apparently this dealer sends out their machines set this way and it works for their customers, or they probably wouldn't keep doing it? I have a leg up with the 110 jet, so maybe it's good enough like this, and may add some life to the machine by reducing wear & tear and save a bit of fuel; who knows?

I think that "work" is one of the aspects of mechanical engineering design most misunderstood by laymen, and I've been reading more about why engines are set up a certain way for some tasks and differently for others. The GX390 has been used for a broad spectrum of applications, from high HP racing apps at high RPMs to the grunt end where they perform monotonous tasks at a single speed; the snowblower application reminds me of the way that commercial piston aircraft engines were designed, where they are run in or close to the torque sweet-spot. What I may discover is that there is simply no need to run higher than 3300RPM to do the "work" when jetted appropriately and that 3650RPM, while certainly functional, may be overkill. Or not! We'll see...



_Work done is the force multiplied with the distance moved by the force_
_Power is the ratio between the work done and the time taken_


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## Aviator

I like your methods, tabora. Go out and do observed testing, evaluate the results, and THEN decide how best to operate. Using direct observation via the Scientific Method rather that relying 100% on theory. Nice. 

Who knows, the blower might work even better up at 3650rpm. But it might not. I'll be interested in hearing your testing results. As expensive as Hondas are, extending their useful life is a worthwhile goal.

The main reason is see in running above torque peak is these machines bog down in wet snow. Is it better to operate near torque peak to fight bogging in the first place, and then fall below it when you eventually do bog down, or should we operate at some number above torque peak, so bogging down drops us into the max torque band rather than below it? I see advantages to both techniques.


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## GustoGuy

Aviator said:


> I like your methods, tabora. Go out and do observed testing, evaluate the results, and THEN decide how best to operate. Using direct observation via the Scientific Method rather that relying 100% on theory. Nice.
> 
> Who knows, the blower might work even better up at 3650rpm. But it might not. I'll be interested in hearing your testing results. As expensive as Hondas are, extending their useful life is a worthwhile goal.
> 
> The main reason is see in running above torque peak is these machines bog down in wet snow. Is it better to operate near torque peak to fight bogging in the first place, and then fall below it when you eventually do bog down, or should we operate at some number above torque peak, so bogging down drops us into the max torque band rather than below it? I see advantages to both techniques.


I would keep the rpms at or about 3600rpms. Although the Honda engines can typically handle a few extra 100 rpms without incident. An impeller kit will help prevent getting a clogged up chute and I would do that first in addition to using some silicone or teflon spray to to prevent snow from sticking to the impeller or chute area.


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## foggysail

tabora said:


> *It's torque that does the work, not HP. * HP is about acceleration and high speed. So if it's running at 3300 with 25Nm and slows to 3000 at 26Nm (if that even happens with the 110 jet), I'm starting to think I'm better off than at 3650 with only 22Nm of torque. We'll see...
> 
> 
> 
> [/INDENT]


Nonsense!!! You cannot have one without the other in a rotating machine. Sure you can apply torque with a bar but no work is done.

Torque = (HPx5252)/RPM


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## RedOctobyr

Thank you. The two are linked, increase one, and you increase the other. 

A lot of torque (say 15 ft-lb) at a very low RPM (say 1200 RPM) won't do much actual work quickly (moving a lot of snow per minute), since it produces little power (3.5 hp). Imagine maintaining your peak torque, but running the engine at a third the normal RPM. Sure, you have torque, but that's not all you need. 

Even if you re-gear it to maintain your normal auger & impeller RPM, you still only have 3.5 hp available, and you won't throw a lot of snow per minute. Your effective torque (at the augers & impeller) has been reduced because you had to use a higher gear ratio to get back to the proper auger & impeller RPM. 

And a good amount of power (say 10 hp) but very little torque (say 7.5 ft-lb) can still move a lot of snow. It would be spinning very fast (7200 RPM), to make high HP, at low torque. You would simply gear the engine down appropriately, to maintain the normal auger & impeller RPM. Your *effective* torque (15 ft-lb, after gearing it down) would then match the torque of a more conventional engine (same 10 hp, higher torque at 15 ft-lb, but lower RPM at 3600). 

Make that original 15 ft-lb at 3600 RPM, and you're producing 10 hp. And can clear the same snow per minute as the 10 hp 7.5 ft-lb engine running at 7200 RPM, and geared down appropriately. 

Power is work done, in an amount of time. Like moving a certain weight of snow per minute. Given the choice, if I had to pick between just high-torque, or just high-power, I'll take high-power, and I'll gear it appropriately.


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## tabora

foggysail said:


> Nonsense!!! You cannot have one without the other in a rotating machine. Sure you can apply torque with a bar but no work is done.
> 
> Torque = (HPx5252)/RPM


I think you missed the point that it's the choice of high HP vs high TORQUE that determines whether an engine is focused on speed and high RPM or lower RPM with the ability to continue to perform heavy WORK with little variance in RPM.


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## foggysail

tabora said:


> I think you missed the point that it's the choice of high HP vs high TORQUE that determines whether an engine is focused on speed and high RPM or lower RPM with the ability to continue to perform heavy WORK with little variance in RPM.



NO point missed at all. I suggest that you get a better understanding of basic physics before preaching torque is more important than HP


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## FullThrottle

You are correct Honda Canada is on the defensive alright.I contacted them and they tell me there is no issues with clogging in Canada.They want me to take it to the dealer and have it evaluated for clogging issues,even thought I sent photos to them.
I could be without my blower for weeks,for them to be able to evaluate the blower under the wet clogging, weather conditions.The dealer said he as had complaints from other owners in this area but,decided to forget about it because of the bureaucracy they would have to go through so they decided to forget about it and live with it,I'm not one to lay over a die without an argument.I was speaking with the Service Rep.today who tells me his hands are tied ,unless Honda Canada recognizes it's a problem.
So it looks like I will have to purchase one from the States,since he told me the part number for the modified chute is not in Honda Canada's inventory system.
Hopefully some Canada owners on her with this issues contacts Honda Canada,then maybe they will them acknowledge there is a problem here in the Atlantic Provinces. 









Aviator said:


> It sounds like Honda Canada is on the defensive over this issue and has moved to prohibit cross border parts shipment by authorized dealers to protect their franchise with Honda. They want you buying only from them. It happens a lo to prevent grey market sales losses. You cannot get a warranty on a Nikon camera in the US unless you buy it thru the Nikon US distributor with a US part number. Honda distributers seem to be following the same tactic by preventing cross border parts sales.
> 
> Try this. Go to the Canada Honda website and check the part number on a replacement chute for your machine. See if it is the same as the one you find on hondapowerequipment.com, the US site. Your articulated chute is the same one used in the US on theHDD1332ATD. Part number 76310-V45-C30ZA. If Honda is selling two different chutes in Canada and the US, write a letter to Honda CA and complain. If the Canadian parts depot only carries the new US spec chute part number, you have a case to demand one.
> 
> Good luck.


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## GustoGuy

tabora said:


> I think you missed the point that it's the choice of high HP vs high TORQUE that determines whether an engine is focused on speed and high RPM or lower RPM with the ability to continue to perform heavy WORK with little variance in RPM.


An engine running at higher RPMS will generally preform more work than an engine at Idle or running at less rpms. When designing an engine you can with different cam shafts make an engine which will have a higher torque at an lower rpm. Since most small engines operate at less than 3600 rpms it makes sense to have torque peak at less than maximum rpm of 3600. With Honda engines and Harbor Freight Predator 212cc engines you can get billet connecting rods and billet flywheels and stiffer valves springs and different cam shafts and a stage 4 Predator 212cc will make nearly 15hp and operate at over 8000rpms. So running an engine at 3600rpms or better will throw snow better than 1/2 throttle since the Paddles or impeller are moving faster. I put a 3 inch diameter top pulley on my snow blower and it throws snow 40+ feet


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## Jae0

FullThrottle said:


> You are correct Honda Canada is on the defensive alright.I contacted them and they tell me there is no issues with clogging in Canada.They want me to take it to the dealer and have it evaluated for clogging issues,even thought I sent photos to them.
> I could be without my blower for weeks,for them to be able to evaluate the blower under the wet clogging, weather conditions.The dealer said he as had complaints from other owners in this area but,decided to forget about it because of the bureaucracy they would have to go through so they decided to forget about it and live with it,I'm not one to lay over a die without an argument.I was speaking with the Service Rep.today who tells me his hands are tied ,unless Honda Canada recognizes it's a problem.
> So it looks like I will have to purchase one from the States,since he told me the part number for the modified chute is not in Honda Canada's inventory system.
> Hopefully some Canada owners on her with this issues contacts Honda Canada,then maybe they will them acknowledge there is a problem here in the Atlantic Provinces.



As I’ve said in an earlier reply on this post, Honda Canada needs to have MANY users call customer service and provide a “Negative Feedback” (not just a customer inquiry) about the clogging issue and make reference to the US solution by modified chute. 

I’ve done it. If you have experienced the issue, I suggest you do the same.


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## foggysail

GustoGuy said:


> An engine running at higher RPMS will generally preform more work than an engine at Idle or running at less rpms. When designing an engine you can with different cam shafts make an engine which will have a higher torque at an lower rpm. Since most small engines operate at less than 3600 rpms it makes sense to have torque peak at less than maximum rpm of 3600. With Honda engines and Harbor Freight Predator 212cc engines you can get billet connecting rods and billet flywheels and stiffer valves springs and different cam shafts and a stage 4 Predator 212cc will make nearly 15hp and operate at over 8000rpms. So running an engine at 3600rpms or better will throw snow better than 1/2 throttle since the Paddles or impeller are moving faster. I put a 3 inch diameter top pulley on my snow blower and it throws snow 40+ feet



I will avoid getting into all the design factors related to an engine. However it is interesting that you mentioned how the Predator (and for that matter, all engines that I am aware of) develop max torque at a lower RPM than max power. Consider the formula 

Torque = (HPx5252)/RPM

and notice that RPM is in the denominator so as RPM increases example the resulting torque will rise up to a point and then begin to fall off. In a perfect world the torque would equal the HP if the RPMs equaled 5252. But nothing in life is perfect. Other factors can enter into the equation.


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## RedOctobyr

Well, simplifying things to just the formulas, power (in hp) *does* equal the torque (in ft-lbs) at 5250 RPM. You can experiment with different values using a power calculator: 

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/horsepower-torque-calculator

This has nothing to do with engine designs, it's just when the math "coincidentally" works out to equivalent numbers for the two different units. For any dynamometer plot, the torque value (in ft-lbs) will cross and equal the horsepower (in hp) at 5252 RPM. 

It's true for a 2-stroke weedwhacker making 1 ft-lb at 5252 RPM (and therefore 1 hp), and for a 4-stroke V-8 making 250 ft-lb at 5252 RPM (and therefore 250 hp). 

If you were working in units N-m of torque, and watts of power, there isn't anything "special" about 5252 RPM. Two numbers don't suddenly match, using those units. 

A dynamometer curve that shows torque rising, and then falling at some certain point, *does* have to do with that specific engine's design, and is more complicated than just the torque vs power formula. 

In my examples of power vs torque, in post #279, I was setting aside engine subtleties, and assumed that the hypothetical engines made their hypothetical torques at all RPMs (that is, torque is not changing as the RPM changes). 

A few random dynamometer plots, for anyone interested: 
https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/how-to-read-a-dyno-graph
https://faraday.physics.utoronto.ca/PVB/Harrison/EnginePower/EnginePower.html


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## 1132le

When people say oh i have this much hp
torq and the torq curve control everything about hp
when you make more hp at a much higher rpm 

all thats really happening is you are changing the slope of the torq curve and making peaking torq at a higher rpm 

the higher the peak torq rpm of the engine the higher the hp will be in relation to it
its just a different torque curve thats all it is
boosted motors via supercharging or turbos can create higher then a 100% ve efficiency 

reg street engines are 75 to 80% ve
a good non boosted race engine is 90 to95% ve efficient 

most motors have the exact same torq and [email protected] give or take 1
modified real race motors and boosted race engines dont always match 100% at that rpm of 5252 as they are not making peak torque untill after 5252 rpm

just altering the torq curve higher or lower
and the slope of the curve based on the cam and head flow


----------



## RedOctobyr

1132le said:


> most motors have the exact same torq and [email protected] give or take 1
> modified real race motors and boosted race engines dont always match 100% at that rpm of 5252 as they are not making peak torque untill after 5252 rpm


Whatever your torque # is at 5252 RPM, so too is your horsepower # at that RPM. It has nothing to do with whether it's a race engine, or where the peak torque occurs. 

The two values *will* match at 5252 RPM, it's just how the formula calculates one from the other.

This is not trying to say anything about what RPM the peak torque, or hp, occur at, since those are unrelated to 5252 RPM. 

Fahrenheit and Celsius happen to match at -40. Like how 5252 RPM is nothing magic, there is nothing special physically about -40, it's just where those 2 lines happen to cross.

I apologize for helping things continue to slide off-topic. Just trying to avoid what seems like mis-information. I'm not trying to be rude or disrespectful to anyone.


----------



## foggysail

RedOctobyr said:


> Well, simplifying things to just the formulas, power (in hp) *does* equal the torque (in ft-lbs) at 5250 RPM. You can experiment with different values using a power calculator:
> 
> https://spicerparts.com/calculators/horsepower-torque-calculator
> 
> This has nothing to do with engine designs, it's just when the math "coincidentally" works out to equivalent numbers for the two different units. [/URL]



Yeah, I should not have mentioned engine designs. What I alluded to was from Gustoguy's above post

"_When designing an engine you can with different cam shafts make an engine which will have a higher torque at an lower rpm._ "

Not all same power rated engines develop equal power at the same RPM and I didn't want to get into a rat hole comparing different engines of the same rating but different torque curves. And in my above post I mentioned that the HP and torque would be equal at 5250 RPM.


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## mfrs2000

*Honda Stepping Up*



Cardo111 said:


> Kudos to Honda for stepping up and offering owners a solution to their problem, they listen. This is a testament to their commitment to building a high quality product and standing behind it.


Honda Canada does not reconize a problem! No wet snow here lol...


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## 1132le

RedOctobyr said:


> Whatever your torque # is at 5252 RPM, so too is your horsepower # at that RPM. It has nothing to do with whether it's a race engine, or where the peak torque occurs.
> 
> The two values *will* match at 5252 RPM, it's just how the formula calculates one from the other.
> 
> This is not trying to say anything about what RPM the peak torque, or hp, occur at, since those are unrelated to 5252 RPM.
> 
> Fahrenheit and Celsius happen to match at -40. Like how 5252 RPM is nothing magic, there is nothing special physically about -40, it's just where those 2 lines happen to cross.
> 
> I apologize for helping things continue to slide off-topic. Just trying to avoid what seems like mis-information. I'm not trying to be rude or disrespectful to anyone.



Red they are not the same on some boosted race engines where they are not the same at 5252
the lines still cross there at 5252 just the values are not the same
ive seen it in person red sir

the torq curve controls everything about hp based on where the engine makes peak torque
Its also possible for a race engine to have more then 1 peak hp as silly as it sounds
didnt pay attention to what thread this was from this whole thread has turned into a cluster


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## RedOctobyr

Dunno what to say, one is calculated from the other, and at 5252 the math says the numbers have to match  

Unless it's like a rounding error in a displayed value, since you did say the lines cross there (ie- they're the same).

I won't try to dispute what you've seen in person, but I'll offer that it doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I'd love to see one. 

And with a lumpy torque curve, with dips and spikes, I could understand an engine producing the same power at 2 different RPMs. Potentially 2 peaks, as you said. So I'm not a complete disbeliever


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## tabora

foggysail said:


> NO point missed at all. I suggest that you get a better understanding of basic physics before preaching torque is more important than HP


I would rather blow snow with the 600BHP DD16 at 1800 RPM than the 800BHP Porshe Turbo engine at 7000 RPM (the DD16 has 3-4 times the available torque).

This link Horsepower and Torque - Craig's Website at Backfire.ca is my favorite discussion of Torque and HP; the rotational diagrams pretty much directly illustrate how on a rotating shaft, work ( like impelling/blowing snow) is done by the force from torque (@ constant lower RPM with high torque to constantly accelerate the snow). 

A Honda engineer summarized it as: Torque is what gets you to X RPM and horsepower keeps it there. So you set the engine to X RPM, the augers bite into some heavy EOD, the RPM drops, and the governor cranks in more air/fuel to create torque to twist all the moving parts to get back to X again (or as close as possible).


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## GustoGuy

foggysail said:


> Yeah, I should not have mentioned engine designs. What I alluded to was from Gustoguy's above post
> 
> "_When designing an engine you can with different cam shafts make an engine which will have a higher torque at an lower rpm._ "
> 
> Not all same power rated engines develop equal power at the same RPM and I didn't want to get into a rat hole comparing different engines of the same rating but different torque curves. And in my above post I mentioned that the HP and torque would be equal at 5250 RPM.


Ironically a camshaft with smaller lobs tends to make its peak torque at a lower engine rpm much like the stock Predator 212cc camshaft. Performance manufactures make high performance camshafts for this engine which will allow more performance at higher rpms by increases in the duration of how long the valves are open for better breathing at higher rpms which shifts the torque curve up several hundreds of rpms higher.


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## FullThrottle

Good Morning Jae:0
I did contact Honda Canada via phone.the customer service rep. fully understood my concerns but she said there had been no reports or cases submitted with regards to clogging here in Canada.I did reference that Honda USA was replacing chutes on owners snowblowers in USA areas that was have the Chute clogging problem.
I have sen several Canadian owners on here with the problem,not not sure if they did anything about it or contacted Honda Canada,like you say the more people that contacts them the better chance we have ,that they will do something about it. 

I did send an email to the Head Office in Montreal,expressing my concerns but with all the bureaucracy that goes with it,might be a waist of my time trying to fight with them. 





Jae0 said:


> As I’ve said in an earlier reply on this post, Honda Canada needs to have MANY users call customer service and provide a “Negative Feedback” (not just a customer inquiry) about the clogging issue and make reference to the US solution by modified chute.
> 
> I’ve done it. If you have experienced the issue, I suggest you do the same.


----------



## FullThrottle

Hi tabora

Can you tell me if those part numbers is the same for the HSS928ATCD which is a Canada Model Number.I contacted boats.net,but apparently they replied back and told those numbers dosen't show up in their inventory system.
Thanks





tabora said:


> Double articulated chute: 76310-V45-C31ZA
> Single articulated chute: 76310-V45-A01ZA


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## tabora

FullThrottle said:


> Can you tell me if those part numbers is the same for the HSS928ATCD which is a Canada Model Number.I contacted boats.net,but apparently they replied back and told those numbers doesn't show up in their inventory system.


 I think they may be a little bit behind on this... Here are the links to the chutes on TMSparts:

https://www.tmsparts.com/oem/hondape/76310-V45-C31ZA
https://www.tmsparts.com/oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA

I've been told by others that your HSS928ATCD uses the Double articulated chute: 76310-V45-C31ZA


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## FullThrottle

Thanks Bud,I thought I saw in one of the post that boats.net had them,but apparently they don't according to the reply I received.
Do you know if tmparts.delivers to Canada? 





tabora said:


> I think they may be a little bit behind on this... Here are the links to the chutes on TMSparts:
> 
> https://www.tmsparts.com/oem/hondape/76310-V45-C31ZA
> https://www.tmsparts.com/oem/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA
> 
> I've been told by others that your HSS928ATCD uses the Double articulated chute: 76310-V45-C31ZA


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## Jae0

Tmparts does deliver to Canada if you call them and pay via PayPal, but the shipping cost is wild due to the relatively large size of the chute shipping from California; ~$60-70 shipping fee by standard couriers to the maritimes if I remember correctly.


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## FullThrottle

Thanks,So you have to call them rather than order it online via their website.






Jae0 said:


> Tmparts does deliver to Canada if you call them and pay via PayPal, but the shipping cost is wild due to the relatively large size of the chute shipping from California; ~$60-70 shipping fee by standard couriers to the maritimes if I remember correctly.


----------



## J0HND0E

*What s/n range begins the hss1332atd chute update*

Can anyone tell me what the beginning Manufacturer Serial Number is for HSS1332ATD Snowblowers that were shipped with the replacement chute already installed. I found a supplier who has a large number of this model both with the old chute and the new but claims he does not have a means of knowing which units have the new chute.


I am looking at purchasing a new HSS1332ATD but want one with the new chute. I will upgrade the Carburetor Jets once I, hopefully, find out a means to buy what I am looking for here.


Any help will be greatly appreciated!


Thank You in Advance!


Joe


----------



## tabora

J0HND0E said:


> Can anyone tell me what the beginning Manufacturer Serial Number is for HSS1332ATD Snowblowers that were shipped with the replacement chute already installed.


 At this point in time, there does not appear to be a hard cut-off. Perhaps that will change once the chute back-order situation is resolved. The replacement chute for my HSS1332ATD was pulled from the assembly line due to the back-order situation and presumably Honda would have had to use up the original-style chutes to keep the line moving along, as well.

Contact Honda directly with your question (and then enlighten us!) at: https://powerequipment.honda.com/support/contact-us


----------



## Xwild

J0HND0E said:


> Can anyone tell me what the beginning Manufacturer Serial Number is for HSS1332ATD Snowblowers that were shipped with the replacement chute already installed. I found a supplier who has a large number of this model both with the old chute and the new but claims he does not have a means of knowing which units have the new chute.
> 
> 
> I am looking at purchasing a new HSS1332ATD but want one with the new chute. I will upgrade the Carburetor Jets once I, hopefully, find out a means to buy what I am looking for here.
> 
> 
> Any help will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> Thank You in Advance!
> 
> 
> Joe


Assuming they're not all still in a crate, you can look at them and see the difference in the collar. It's quite obvious from the pictures I've seen here.


----------



## str8shuutr45

I just had the chute on my HSS1332ATD replaced yesterday under warranty (I live in NH). I got the call from my dealer Thursday, the day after we got 7” of heavy, very wet snow. As usual, when I went to clear the end of the driveway, the slushy snow created an ice plug that I had to dig out. Hopefully this will take care of the problem. 
Here are some photos of the new chute installed.


----------



## Jae0

Does anyone have good instructions for how to replace the chute? I know most folks in the US will be having the work done by dealer under warranty, but in Canada, we’re on our own to replace once we’ve sourced the new hardware.


----------



## FullThrottle

Jae0 said:


> Does anyone have good instructions for how to replace the chute? I know most folks in the US will be having the work done by dealer under warranty, but in Canada, we’re on our own to replace once we’ve sourced the new hardware.


Those were scanned from my service manual, but when you print them of and it will be ok ,sorry hard to fit it on my printer to scan.001.jpg 002.jpg Before you remove the chute,put a mark on the chute and the gear so it lines up the same way you took it off.


----------



## J0HND0E

*How to remove and install the Honda Chute Video*

The person in this YOUTUBE Video has a series of videos related to hi Honda. This video is where he modifies his chute to fix the clogging issue. At the time he did this Honda had not done anything to resolve the issue so he took it into his own hands to fix it himself. This video shows him both removing and re-installing the chute.



I hope it helps you.


----------



## Caper83

Hi there

I am from Cape Breton, NS and recently purchased a HSS928A. I have also experienced the clogging issue with wet snow. I did call Honda Canada and left negative feedback. I also have my dealer looking into it. It is so disappointing to see such an expensive machine clog when your neighbor who has a cheap machine work perfectly.


----------



## Caper83

Hi. Can you provide the email address? I would also like to write an email regarding this. I just purchased a 928 (I'm from Nova Scotia) and experienced it clogging in wet snow. The neighbors had no issues. Some with cheaper machines (non-honda) and some with older hondas.







FullThrottle said:


> Good Morning Jae:0
> I did contact Honda Canada via phone.the customer service rep. fully understood my concerns but she said there had been no reports or cases submitted with regards to clogging here in Canada.I did reference that Honda USA was replacing chutes on owners snowblowers in USA areas that was have the Chute clogging problem.
> I have sen several Canadian owners on here with the problem,not not sure if they did anything about it or contacted Honda Canada,like you say the more people that contacts them the better chance we have ,that they will do something about it.
> 
> I did send an email to the Head Office in Montreal,expressing my concerns but with all the bureaucracy that goes with it,might be a waist of my time trying to fight with them.


----------



## Caper83

*Clogging Issue*

Can you provide the email address? I would like to send one as well.




FullThrottle said:


> Good Morning Jae:0
> I did contact Honda Canada via phone.the customer service rep. fully understood my concerns but she said there had been no reports or cases submitted with regards to clogging here in Canada.I did reference that Honda USA was replacing chutes on owners snowblowers in USA areas that was have the Chute clogging problem.
> I have sen several Canadian owners on here with the problem,not not sure if they did anything about it or contacted Honda Canada,like you say the more people that contacts them the better chance we have ,that they will do something about it.
> 
> I did send an email to the Head Office in Montreal,expressing my concerns but with all the bureaucracy that goes with it,might be a waist of my time trying to fight with them.


----------



## partypants

Caper83 said:


> Hi there
> 
> I am from Cape Breton, NS and recently purchased a HSS928A. I have also experienced the clogging issue with wet snow. I did call Honda Canada and left negative feedback. I also have my dealer looking into it. It is so disappointing to see such an expensive machine clog when your neighbor who has a cheap machine work perfectly.


Install a #92 main jet in the carb. $10 and 10 minutes work and you can be confident that you have the best machine you money can buy.


----------



## Caper83

partypants said:


> Install a #92 main jet in the carb. $10 and 10 minutes work and you can be confident that you have the best machine you money can buy.


Does that negate the honda warrenty?


----------



## FullThrottle

Hi Guys
I am about to order a modified chute from boats.net,I just want someone to confirm if the part number 76310-V45-C31ZA will fit my HSS928ATCD,I assume the "Double Articulated Chute",indicates that it's for the blower with the Electric start.I have seen on here where it fits a HSS928ATD US Model ,which to me appears to be the same and parts would be interchangeable. 

Jae0 you were expecting yours to arrive soon,did you receive and install it yet. 







Jae0 said:


> Perfect. So more generalized to include us Canucks...
> 
> Double articulated chute:
> 76310-V45-C31ZA
> 
> Non-double articulated chute:
> 76310-V45-A01ZA


----------



## Jae0

FullThrottle said:


> Hi Guys
> I am about to order a modified chute from boats.net,I just want someone to confirm if the part number 76310-V45-C31ZA will fit my HSS928ATCD,I assume the "Double Articulated Chute",indicates that it's for the blower with the Electric start.I have seen on here where it fits a HSS928ATD US Model ,which to me appears to be the same and parts would be interchangeable.
> 
> Jae0 you were expecting yours to arrive soon,did you receive and install it yet.




I did order the part number associated with the double-articulate chute as you’ve described and the correct part arrived yesterday, but isn’t yet installed.

Yes, in Canada “double articulated chute” is synonymous with “electric start”, but that isn’t the case in the US. In the US, their “electric start” HSS928ATD does not come with the double articulated chute, but their HSS1332ATD does; you’ve got to be careful when ordering a US part like this because their info would likely reference the US-spec machines. 

So yes, in Canada, an HSS928ACTD needs the 76310-V45-C31ZA part number.


----------



## FullThrottle

Thanks Bud,I will get back to boats.net and have them submit my order.
Appreciate your quick response 

Cheers.





Jae0 said:


> I did order the part number associated with the double-articulate chute as you’ve described and the correct part arrived yesterday, but isn’t yet installed.
> 
> Yes, in Canada “double articulated chute” is synonymous with “electric start”, but that isn’t the case in the US. In the US, their “electric start” HSS928ATD does not come with the double articulated chute, but their HSS1332ATD does; you’ve got to be careful when ordering a US part like this because their info would likely reference the US-spec machines.
> 
> So yes, in Canada, an HSS928ACTD needs the 76310-V45-C31ZA part number.


----------



## Caper83

Jae0 said:


> I did order the part number associated with the double-articulate chute as you’ve described and the correct part arrived yesterday, but isn’t yet installed.
> 
> Yes, in Canada “double articulated chute” is synonymous with “electric start”, but that isn’t the case in the US. In the US, their “electric start” HSS928ATD does not come with the double articulated chute, but their HSS1332ATD does; you’ve got to be careful when ordering a US part like this because their info would likely reference the US-spec machines.
> 
> So yes, in Canada, an HSS928ACTD needs the 76310-V45-C31ZA part number.


Hi Jaeo

I have the HSS928 (non-electric start) so I would need this part...

Non-double articulated chute:
76310-V45-A01ZA

Can you confirm. I may order one as well. 

Do you think installing this part would void the honda warrenty?

Thanks!


----------



## ZTMAN

I went to the dealer today to schedule a spring appointment for my mower. Asked him about the "Honda chute recall." Fellow said Honda will only do something if the get complaints. 
He said he would call Honda and get approval.


----------



## partypants

Caper83 said:


> Does that negate the honda warrenty?


How would they know? Honda power equipment techs in my area are high school aged. They don't know jack shi….. Highly doubtful they ever inspect the jet. 

If a point in time ever comes where you need to make a warranty claim and you're worried, swap the stock jet back in. Again, 10 minutes... or less.

Keep in mind, the gx270 ALWAYS ran the #92 jet. Up until a few years ago when they leaned it out for emissions compliance. It's not going to harm anything. Will probably make the engine last longer.


----------



## tabora

Caper83 said:


> Does that negate the honda warrenty?


Per Honda, no, it does not...


----------



## FullThrottle

Yes that would be the part number for the non-electric start,HSS928,mine has the Electric Start,which calls for the "Double articulated Chute" part number.I ordered one via boats.net.





Caper83 said:


> Hi Jaeo
> 
> I have the HSS928 (non-electric start) so I would need this part...
> 
> Non-double articulated chute:
> 76310-V45-A01ZA
> 
> Can you confirm. I may order one as well.
> 
> Do you think installing this part would void the honda warrenty?
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## partypants

tabora said:


> Per Honda, no, it does not...


You can be **** sure if your engine blows, and the techs find that you modified the jet, it won't be covered. 
However, anything unrelated to fuel or engine they wouldn't be able to blame on your modification - so it would be covered. 

Having said that, if you do encounter an issue with the carb/engine - swap the original jet back in. I really don't foresee that happening though. Very highly unlikely it would come to that. Again, it is likely more reliable with the bigger jet.


----------



## tabora

Just came in from blowing 8-10" of heavy powder with wet crust on top. HSS1332 still set at 3300RPM w/ #110 jet. New chute and transmission reservoir. Results: Virtually no RPM drop, even @ 18" EOD (at least I didn't catch more than a 50 RPM variance on the tach). No clogging, no spitting, fast ground speed in forward and reverse throughout the session. AAAhhh! Next: Oxford Heated Grips - 12 degrees F 'bout did my fingers in!

*Update 01/30/2019: Well, we finally had our first "real" snowstorm of the season. The EOD was a solid 24" - 28" high and about 4 feet into the driveway. Going across the driveway taking a full 32" bite in the middle of the high stuff, the HSS1332 FINALLY bogged down to about 2,500 RPM (peak torque) a couple of times. While it still threw the snow 30-40' back from the road, guess I'm going to put the RPMs back up and see how it compares.*


----------



## CVNY

HSS928AATD, new style chute, otherwise stock. 19 inches of light snow with EOD 40"". Went through all quite well. All in all, a good outing.


----------



## RedOctobyr

tabora said:


> Just came in from blowing 8-10" of heavy powder with wet crust on top. HSS1332 still set at 3300RPM w/ #110 jet. New chute and transmission reservoir. Results: Virtually no RPM drop, even @ 18" EOD (at least I didn't catch more than a 50 RPM variance on the tach). No clogging, no spitting, fast ground speed in forward and reverse throughout the session. AAAhhh! Next: Oxford Heated Grips - 12 degrees F 'bout did my fingers in!


Nice! I wish I could say my machine only dropped by around 50 RPM while clearing tonight. 

Does yours have an electrical output that you can use for heated grips? Our weather is warmer than yours, and even with that, I still appreciate my heated grips. So I can only imagine what it's like up your way.


----------



## Halfatrack

HSS928 with third chute. This past weekend storm here in NE Pa. Foot hills of the Pocono mountains. We live on top of hill snow heavy wet about 5 to 6 inches. Not 1 clog. snow did cover the light housing area. Stopped machine brushed it off. Use fluid Film. My RPM's were 3570 using a Fast Tach hand Held unit. The machine did bog down where the plow trucks left there mess at end of driveways & street. I do 5 driveways normal. This storm 7 driveways. 2 neighbors machine would not throw the wet stuff at all. Sears 8/25 machine, Old Cub cadet 7/24 machine.
I'm Happy with this new chute mod.


----------



## mmosberg

My new HSS 970A clogged several times yesterday in wet snow. Whereas my previous Husqvarna clogged once in 12 years. Contacted the dealer. When I was there he called the Service Manager of Norway. New chutes are arriving Norway later in the spring and will be installed free of charge. He also said that the machines sold in Norway are manufactured in the USA.


----------



## CVNY

Blowing my driveway and the neighbors. On the way to the second driveway with the HSS928, new chute, I was able to blow the "beach sand" mix of salt, slush and sand that the town plow left in the road.


----------



## partypants

mmosberg said:


> My new HSS 970A clogged several times yesterday in wet snow. Whereas my previous Husqvarna clogged once in 12 years. Contacted the dealer. When I was there he called the Service Manager of Norway. New chutes are arriving Norway later in the spring and will be installed free of charge. He also said that the machines sold in Norway are manufactured in the USA.


Install a #98 jet and all will be good. Boats.net will ship to Norway.


----------



## mmosberg

partypants said:


> Install a #98 jet and all will be good. Boats.net will ship to Norway.


Already upgraded fm #85 to #92.


----------



## allens209

partypants said:


> swap the stock jet back in. Again, 10 minutes... or less..



I ordered a 90 for my new HSS928. Do you remove the carb or just drop the bowl?


----------



## partypants

mmosberg said:


> partypants said:
> 
> 
> 
> Install a #98 jet and all will be good. Boats.net will ship to Norway.
> 
> 
> 
> Already upgraded fm #85 to #92.
Click to expand...

Sorry I am more knowledgeable about the 1332. #92 is the proper one for your machine. I think from now a combination of the new chute and an impeller kit will give you a fierce machine!!


----------



## partypants

allens209 said:


> partypants said:
> 
> 
> 
> swap the stock jet back in. Again, 10 minutes... or less..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered a 90 for my new HSS928. Do you remove the carb or just drop the bowl?
Click to expand...

Just drop the bowl.


----------



## allens209

partypants said:


> Just drop the bowl.


Thanks!!


----------



## allens209

I also ordered a 92 as I understand that is what used to be installed before. Will this increase the max RPM and do I need to reduce the governor RPM?


I would think the governor should keep RPM the same regardless of jet. Or is is not a governor but just a throttle stop.


----------



## imws

UHMW adhesive back sheets lining the collar and the chute area around from the collar down is working well for me. I used the HSS928AATD yesterday with the wet snow that we had 2/12/2019 here in NNJ / Bergen County Area / and it just kept plowing through the nastiness. No clogs ... UHMW to the rescue.


----------



## RedOctobyr

Sorry if it was mentioned, but where did you get the adhesive UHMW?

I bought a roll-up sled, which I plan to try using to line my (non-Honda) chute. I was thinking of riveting it in place. Not as elegant, but maybe easier to position & remove.


----------



## michaelnel

Hi Folks

I just read this whole thread. I bought a new HSS928ATD from snowblowersdirect.com and it is currently on a truck somewhere between Chicago and California.

Assuming the one they are sending me (s/n 1027486) is a new production model, is it likely to have the new design chute already on it?

Thank you
Michael


----------



## malba2366

mmosberg said:


> Already upgraded fm #85 to #92.


92 is the right jet for your machine. You will be happy when you get the new chute...my machine with the 92 jet and new chute is a beast. I had clogging issues last season before the new chute was installed.


----------



## tabora

Just gave the new HSS1332ATD water pump, er... snowblower chute a definitive test... 6 inches of slush, 18 inches of EOD, standing in 3 inches of water while blowing the mixture quite a ways, maybe 30-40 feet? 1 foot of packed slush standing on top of motor cover / auger housing when done. Zero clogs. Priceless!


----------



## digdex

Maiden voyage last night using my HSS724 with new chute. 3-4 inches of heavy wet snow, it was raining by the time I started. No issues at all. Throwing snow/slush 30 feet or more. Great machine. The new steering on tracks are a huge improvement, It's a no brainier now when choosing wheeled or track IMO.


----------



## CalgaryPT

RedOctobyr said:


> I was thinking of riveting it in place. Not as elegant, but maybe easier to position & remove.


Yup, blind rivets would be a good choice of fastener for this application. But don't do like I saw a guy do once with a wood chipper chute: he put the rivet heads on the _outside_, so of coarse the protruding rivet body caught debris as it shot out. I drilled them out and put the smooth head on the inside and...who knew???? Now it worked.

If you have access to aircraft rivets and an air rivet gun/bucking bar you won't even have the pop rivet hole from the shank left to worry about. Clecos will help with positioning.

Best of luck.


----------



## imws

RedOctobyr said:


> Sorry if it was mentioned, but where did you get the adhesive UHMW?
> 
> I bought a roll-up sled, which I plan to try using to line my (non-Honda) chute. I was thinking of riveting it in place. Not as elegant, but maybe easier to position & remove.




CS Hyde UHMW Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene Tape With Acrylic Adhesive, 5 mil, White, 12" x 12"


----------



## michaelnel

michaelnel said:


> is it likely to have the new design chute already on it?



I guess I will find out when it gets here.


----------



## cwolcott

michaelnel said:


> Hi Folks
> 
> I just read this whole thread. I bought a new HSS928ATD from snowblowersdirect.com and it is currently on a truck somewhere between Chicago and California.
> 
> Assuming the one they are sending me (s/n 1027486) is a new production model, is it likely to have the new design chute already on it?
> 
> Thank you
> Michael


Most likely it will not. Seems Honda continues to ship problematic chute. But they will replace it if you complain about clogging after you take delivery. Downside is they insist dealer installs it. So that means a return to the dealer after you take delivery. I bought same unit you have from same dealer last year. I decided to cough up the $27 to buy the new style chute and out it kn myself. Was very easy to do.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## michaelnel

cwolcott said:


> Most likely it will not. Seems Honda continues to ship problematic chute. But they will replace it if you complain about clogging after you take delivery. Downside is they insist dealer installs it. So that means a return to the dealer after you take delivery. I bought same unit you have from same dealer last year. I decided to cough up the $27 to buy the new style chute and out it kn myself. Was very easy to do.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


Thanks. No way would I ship it back from California to Chicago for the chute. If it's a problem I will buy one of the new ones and replace it myself.


----------



## cwolcott

michaelnel said:


> Thanks. No way would I ship it back from California to Chicago for the chute. If it's a problem I will buy one of the new ones and replace it myself.


Yeah, it would not be done by the online place you bought it from. Honda contractually requires all dealers to honor warranties. It would be a local dealer that would do the work. Depending on their workload you could be without a main when needed most.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## jwasilko

I have a new hss1332atd with the new chute design. This is my first year with this snowblower.


Today in Boston we had a couple of inches of wet heavy snow. The snow had melted a bit more in some areas of the driveway and seemed to be like a snowcone. 



The blower totally clogged 3-4 times in that area and I had to clear the chute by hand.


We've lived here 6 years, and the previous snowblower (an Airiens 1024pro from 2001) never totally clogged.

It did seem to be worse with the chute pointing to the right, but did clog with it to the left as well.


The blower and chute were sprayed with FluidFilm, though i didn't refresh it after the last use....


----------



## digdex

I had the same experience with clogging with the chute and fluid film yesterday. It got clogged at the throat of the chute with a solid block of ice. Pain to clean it. My old Ariens never clogged. 1-3 inches in SE Mass.


----------



## leonz

Its always best to wander down to the end of the driveway and clear off the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTER first and feed the moat monsters with its remains and then after this is done you can then clear the driveway off and the fresh snow will flush the salt out of the cross auger housing.


If your dealing with heavy wet slush you need to slow down and be sure to make half cuts and use fluid film.


Did you remove the buildup on the cross augers? Every municipality uses too much salt and it creates a huge mess and it takes a long time to clear the mess and dispose of the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTER and feed the moat monsters with its remains.


----------



## leonz

tabora said:


> Just gave the new HSS1332ATD water pump, er... snowblower chute a definitive test... 6 inches of slush, 18 inches of EOD, standing in 3 inches of water while blowing the mixture quite a ways, maybe 30-40 feet? 1 foot of packed slush standing on top of motor cover / auger housing when done. Zero clogs. Priceless!


===================================================================================


AH,


it is good to know you are keeping the moat monsters happy and feeding them with rock salt from Canadian Rock Salts Pugwash, Nova Scotia mine. The moat monsters have no issues with consuming too much salt.:wink2:


----------



## drmerdp

jwasilko said:


> I have a new hss1332atd with the new chute design. This is my first year with this snowblower.
> Today in Boston we had a couple of inches of wet heavy snow. The snow had melted a bit more in some areas of the driveway and seemed to be like a snowcone.
> The blower totally clogged 3-4 times in that area and I had to clear the chute by hand.
> We've lived here 6 years, and the previous snowblower (an Airiens 1024pro from 2001) never totally clogged.
> It did seem to be worse with the chute pointing to the right, but did clog with it to the left as well.
> The blower and chute were sprayed with FluidFilm, though i didn't refresh it after the last use....





digdex said:


> I had the same experience with clogging with the chute and fluid film yesterday. It got clogged at the throat of the chute with a solid block of ice. Pain to clean it. My old Ariens never clogged. 1-3 inches in SE Mass.


Tough conditions, but remember that a well fed impeller it less likely to clog. Keep your speed up in those conditions. 

If you have the revised chute, an Impeller kit is to final piece of the puzzle, it will practically pump water, slush will be no problem. 

Don’t underestimate these machines, a little bit more seat time goes a long way with operating efficiency.


----------



## jrom

Just ordered a kit.

Thanks for making them available and documenting the install. https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...098-honda-hss-specific-impeller-seal-kit.html



drmerdp said:


> ...an Impeller kit is to final piece of the puzzle, it will practically pump water, slush will be no problem.
> 
> Don’t underestimate these machines, a little bit more seat time goes a long way with operating efficiency.


----------



## drmerdp

jrom said:


> Just ordered a kit.
> 
> Thanks for making them available and documenting the install. https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...098-honda-hss-specific-impeller-seal-kit.html


My pleasure :smile2:


----------



## ZTMAN

Tried the blower for the first time with the new chute. Six inches with sleet/rain on top. No clogging, blew snow into the next zip code. Bogged a little at full stick, but that is to be expected.
Going to try a re jet when I get the chance, and find the right jet


----------



## fins1up

No more clogs!
HSS724AAWD - This machine was great in power snow, not worth starting when it was wet heavy stuff due to clogging. 

The dealer installed the new design chute (SB #34). It's a totally different machine. This week we had 1/4" of rain, followed by 12+" of spring snow. The snow was not too heavy on top, but slop on the bottom. I let the machine work at it's own pace and it did not clog once. Not once. Even taking on 16+" drifts, it just kept moving the stuff. Problem solved.


----------



## blue dragon

Jae0 said:


> I did order the part number associated with the double-articulate chute as you’ve described and the correct part arrived yesterday, but isn’t yet installed.
> 
> Yes, in Canada “double articulated chute” is synonymous with “electric start”, but that isn’t the case in the US. In the US, their “electric start” HSS928ATD does not come with the double articulated chute, but their HSS1332ATD does; you’ve got to be careful when ordering a US part like this because their info would likely reference the US-spec machines.
> 
> So yes, in Canada, an HSS928ACTD needs the 76310-V45-C31ZA part number.


Funny, after chatting online with the boats.net people, they do not have that part in their inventory.


----------



## Jae0

blue dragon said:


> Funny, after chatting online with the boats.net people, they do not have that part in their inventory.




I ordered (and received) my chute through TMSParts.com, shipped to a colleague at the border because it saved me $60 in shipping. 

I ordered my #92 jet through boats.net, shipped to my door).


----------



## Breckcapt

fins1up said:


> No more clogs!
> HSS724AAWD - This machine was great in power snow, not worth starting when it was wet heavy stuff due to clogging.
> 
> The dealer installed the new design chute (SB #34). It's a totally different machine. This week we had 1/4" of rain, followed by 12+" of spring snow. The snow was not too heavy on top, but slop on the bottom. I let the machine work at it's own pace and it did not clog once. Not once. Even taking on 16+" drifts, it just kept moving the stuff. Problem solved.


So, I’m up in Breckenridge and with this biggest March snow in twenty-five years, just celebrated my 70th, and I don’t want to be a heart attack statistic next season from shoveling like I did this past winter ever again. I posted here two years ago, almost embarrassed to say, when researching the Honda 928 but then, as now, I am going to be forced this coming fall to get one that I will have to keep outside all winter on my deck although under my covered porch. Can’t get around it because no room in the garage.....period.

So, planning on the HSS928ATD, and regarding that chute, I presume that is the one Honda came up with last fall? Do you know if I can order my machine with the non-clogging chute fitted on delivery? Perhaps [email protected] might know. In the month of April and into May we get big dumps of wet snow that feel like concrete so the new chute seems to be the way to go from the start. I’ve already checked with the dealer and they will adjust as necessary for my altitude of 9600’.

Also, while I will keep it covered on the porch, albeit out in the cold, would one suggest I get a spare battery to keep on a trickle charger just in case she won’t start from being outside in frigid weather or is that not really a concern. This would allow me to quickly change out the batter if need be.

The other thing I have been struggling with is ATD vs AWD. I like the ATD because I can adjust the auger height to possibly run it around the yard where my two Goldens hang out in a maze like clearing that I usually shovel all winter. I’m just wondering if I’m gonna have to put some Norwegian steam into maneuvering an ATD. As it is I’m probably going to have to design and build a slight ramp to get it up the two steps from the sidewalk unless anyone thinks it’s possible to raise the auger and slowly walk her up to the cement step and then on to the wood deck. 

It’s embarrassing to come back after two years and just now making a decision come **** or high water.

Any thoughts folks? This old retired ship captain and harbor pilot could use some input.

Thanks,

Delta aka Dave


----------



## tabora

Breckcapt said:


> So, planning on the HSS928ATD, and regarding that chute, I presume that is the one Honda came up with last fall? Do you know if I can order my machine with the non-clogging chute fitted on delivery?


 Presumably, HSS blowers ordered this summer will come with the revised chute installed. If not (seems unlikely) your dealer should be able to install it prior to delivery. And since you're keeping it outside anyway, you may want to consider the HSS1332ATD for the additional features.


Breckcapt said:


> Also, while I will keep it covered on the porch, albeit out in the cold, would one suggest I get a spare battery to keep on a trickle charger just in case she won’t start from being outside in frigid weather or is that not really a concern. This would allow me to quickly change out the batter if need be.


I would just keep an Optimate 3+ or 4 battery conditioner plugged into it when not being used.


Breckcapt said:


> I’m just wondering if I’m gonna have to put some Norwegian steam into maneuvering an ATD.


The trigger steering on the ATD makes it trivially easy to move/maneuver either with or without power. And you can EASILY drive it up any stairs. I've driven both of my tracked Hondas up a stairway onto a deck 12' above the ground.


----------



## Breckcapt

You just made my day........


----------



## leonz

Look at the Yanmar track drive snow blowers since you are shopping now. 
They have a dealer network in the United States.


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## ST1100A

tabora said:


> Presumably, HSS blowers ordered this summer will come with the revised chute installed. If not (seems unlikely) your dealer should be able to install it prior to delivery. And since you're keeping it outside anyway, you may want to consider the HSS1332ATD for the additional features.
> 
> I would just keep an Optimate 3+ or 4 battery conditioner plugged into it when not being used.
> 
> The trigger steering on the ATD makes it trivially easy to move/maneuver either with or without power. And you can EASILY drive it up any stairs. I've driven both of my tracked Hondas up a stairway onto a deck 12' above the ground.


Thats a Honda for you, steps are no obstacle for it with the hydro transmission. Try doing that with a friction drive machine and it will just stall out and slip continuously with no wheel or track movement at all when they hit an obstacle like a step. Honda's walk right up steps like they aren't even there.


----------



## Breckcapt

tabora said:


> Presumably, HSS blowers ordered this summer will come with the revised chute installed. If not (seems unlikely) your dealer should be able to install it prior to delivery. And since you're keeping it outside anyway, you may want to consider the HSS1332ATD for the additional features.
> 
> I would just keep an Optimate 3+ or 4 battery conditioner plugged into it when not being used.
> 
> The trigger steering on the ATD makes it trivially easy to move/maneuver either with or without power. And you can EASILY drive it up any stairs. I've driven both of my tracked Hondas up a stairway onto a deck 12' above the ground.


Hey, Tabora, I wanted to take the time over my first cup of coffee to more appropriately thank you for the feedback. I particularly like the part about walking the blower up the two short steps to the deck. That was in and of itself reassuring. Of course your suggestion to go for the 1332 fed into my desire to “go big, or go home.” I’m sure it would take fractionally less time to do mine and my neighbors driveway as well as the short section of our private road not to mention the sidewalks.

Do you think when I put it up on the deck I might want to put a heavy insulated “blanket” over it overnight? Even go so far as to put a space heater under there set low just to have a higher delta t? I realize I may create moisture but up here at 9600’ we’re talking 17-20 % humidity. Moisture Evans fast. (the effects on the human body are better left for another forum lol)

Any idea of what the height travel is on leading edge of the auger? I presume I would want it raised high when walking up onto the deck.

Perhaps I’m wrong, but it appears the battery spare is only a $70 investment so I may go that route as well.

I looked at the Optimate and see there’s a 5

Thanks again,

Dave


----------



## RedOctobyr

I think a trickle charger on the battery is a good idea, if you have an electrical outlet available. It's inexpensive insurance, and is also suggested during off-season storage. Some/many of those chargers come with a set of leads that you can attach to the battery terminals, so you can easily just plug the charger into it, rather than needing to attach clips to the battery terminals each time. 

If you don't have an outlet available, there are solar battery maintainers as well. 

Personally, I think buying a spare battery is a questionable value. You'll need to keep it on a trickle charger as well, since they self-discharge just from sitting around. And it will begin degrading as well, just due to age. So when the first battery eventually fails, the spare will have aged and weakened already as well. 

If you really want some sort of backup starting aid, could you reach the blower with jumper cables from your car battery? Alternately, for a more versatile solution (which could help you with other things as well), you could buy a jump-starter pack. This is an example of a lithium-powered one: 
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=jump+pack&qid=1553705682&s=gateway&sr=8-5

At least that could also be used to help start your car if needed, or for other purposes, vs $70 for a dedicated spare battery for the blower, with more-limited other uses.


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## Breckcapt

RedOctobyr said:


> I think a trickle charger on the battery is a good idea, if you have an electrical outlet available. It's inexpensive insurance, and is also suggested during off-season storage. Some/many of those chargers come with a set of leads that you can attach to the battery terminals, so you can easily just plug the charger into it, rather than needing to attach clips to the battery terminals each time.
> 
> If you don't have an outlet available, there are solar battery maintainers as well.
> 
> Personally, I think buying a spare battery is a questionable value. You'll need to keep it on a trickle charger as well, since they self-discharge just from sitting around. And it will begin degrading as well, just due to age. So when the first battery eventually fails, the spare will have aged and weakened already as well.
> 
> If you really want some sort of backup starting aid, could you reach the blower with jumper cables from your car battery? Alternately, for a more versatile solution (which could help you with other things as well), you could buy a jump-starter pack. This is an example of a lithium-powered one:
> https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=jump+pack&qid=1553705682&s=gateway&sr=8-5
> 
> At least that could also be used to help start your car if needed, or for other purposes, vs $70 for a dedicated spare battery for the blower, with more-limited other uses.


Roger. I do have a jump starter pack. Check.

I wonder if the HSS928ATD/1332ATD will require me to remove the cover. I’ll have to check.

Thanks, man.....

Dave


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## tabora

ST1100A said:


> Thats a Honda for you, steps are no obstacle for it with the hydro transmission. Try doing that with a friction drive machine and it will just stall out and slip continuously with no wheel or track movement at all when they hit an obstacle like a step. Honda's walk right up steps like they aren't even there.


Actually, my older Honda is an HS80 with friction drive and it has no issue going up stairs. The HSS1332 hydro is MUCH better at it though... Better micro-speed control!


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## tabora

Breckcapt said:


> Of course your suggestion to go for the 1332 fed into my desire to “go big, or go home.” I’m sure it would take fractionally less time to do mine and my neighbors driveway as well as the short section of our private road not to mention the sidewalks.


For me, it's been a huge difference. What used to take 1.5-1.75 hours with the HS80 takes only 45 minutes with the HSS1332ATD.



Breckcapt said:


> Do you think when I put it up on the deck I might want to put a heavy insulated “blanket” over it overnight?


My garage is unheated and the HSS1332ATD started instantly all winter; lowest temp was -12F.



Breckcapt said:


> Any idea of what the height travel is on leading edge of the auger? I presume I would want it raised high when walking up onto the deck.


 With the auger housing tilted all the way up, it's exactly 4" from the ground to the scraper bar. A bit of added pressure on the grips and it tilts right up and attacks the stairs...


Breckcapt said:


> Perhaps I’m wrong, but it appears the battery spare is only a $70 investment so I may go that route as well.


I'd just put the money into an Optimate. I have several 4s and they are amazing at keeping batteries happy.


Breckcapt said:


> I looked at the Optimate and see there’s a 5


The 5 may be overkill for a 12Ah (HSS828ATD) or 18Ah (HSS1332ATD) battery. It's rated from 15Ah to 192Ah, but also adds 6V capability for other uses...


----------



## Breckcapt

tabora said:


> Actually, my older Honda is an HS80 with friction drive and it has no issue going up stairs. The HSS1332 hydro is MUCH better at it though... Better micro-speed control!


Sooooooo, we’re talking raise the auger and tilt the machine to go up the stairs in a forward position? Or are we talking about going up a few steps in reverse. Dumb question......but I’m 70, retired, and unabashedly stupid.

While I was originally thinking about the 928......what the heck, go big or go home. 1332 sounding good 

D


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## ST1100A

tabora said:


> Actually, my older Honda is an HS80 with friction drive and it has no issue going up stairs. The HSS1332 hydro is MUCH better at it though... Better micro-speed control!


There again, its a Honda, of course it would go up steps, they were over built back then and very much under rated, like their generators. The Honda is a far cry from those poor Areins and other worthless friction drive units that are built today that can barely move themselves, even without being under a load, especially if they get wet down on the drive disc that you constantly have to replace. You pay a little extra for the Honda, but you sure get your money's worth out of them. The hydro is the best for infinitely variable speed and bulldozing power. Honda's are also good in the off season used as "car pushers", so I get my money's worth out of it year round with no failures at all, they even work for spreading/blowing mulch in the summertime. And my Honda workhorses are over 25 years old still going strong with no major repairs, only oil changes and worn tires.


----------



## ST1100A

Breckcapt said:


> Sooooooo, we’re talking raise the auger and tilt the machine to go up the stairs in a forward position? Or are we talking about going up a few steps in reverse. Dumb question......but I’m 70, retired, and unabashedly stupid.
> 
> While I was originally thinking about the 928......what the heck, go big or go home. 1332 sounding good
> 
> D


Yes go up the steps in a forward position, you would be surprised the power and traction the track drive Honda has. Just tilt it back so it will climb the first step or two and away it goes,just let it crawl its way up the steps. You are not supposed to blow snow on the steps or while going up the steps but that never stopped me from doing so. It is not a safe thing to do though so I would not recommend you try that. When you go down the steps you can go forward and tilt it back and go step by step while holding it tipped back. If you back it down you would run the risk of losing control and it would run you over but you could do it very slowly. They don't want you to go up and down steps for safety reasons of course, you will make a lawyer rich if you get hurt doing that. My steps are kind of steep and I go up about 20 feet in height with mine on one stairway, another stairway is not quite as steep that I do.


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## BillyNishimura

*Lawn mower*

After all, the Honda's lawn mower is the best, right?:wink2:


----------



## sscotsman

ST1100A said:


> There again, its a Honda, of course it would go up steps, they were over built back then and very much under rated, like their generators. The Honda is a far cry from those poor Areins and other worthless friction drive units that are built today that can barely move themselves, even without being under a load, especially if they get wet down on the drive disc that you constantly have to replace. You pay a little extra for the Honda, but you sure get your money's worth out of them. The hydro is the best for infinitely variable speed and bulldozing power. Honda's are also good in the off season used as "car pushers", so I get my money's worth out of it year round with no failures at all, they even work for spreading/blowing mulch in the summertime. And my Honda workhorses are over 25 years old still going strong with no major repairs, only oil changes and worn tires.



Hi ST,
I was going to remove your opinion about friction disks..then decided to keep it! :wink:
because its worth talking about..


Its fine that you love your Hondas and hydros, but your views on friction disks are pure opinion, not factual, and flat-out wrong.




> The Honda is a far cry from those poor Areins and other worthless friction drive units that are built today that can barely move themselves, even without being under a load, especially if they get wet down on the drive disc that you constantly have to replace.


"those poor Areins and other worthless friction drive units" - Ariens has been consistently rated one of the best brands for 60 years.

"worthless friction drive units" - wrong, they work great, and have worked great for 60 years.

"barely move themselves" - wrong, they move just fine, with plenty of power..most can even get up stairs without slipping.

"even without being under a load" - really really wrong..hundreds of thousands have worked just fine for 60 years, (probably 95% of all snowblowers ever made), while under load, and especially more-so when not under load.

"especially if they get wet down on the drive disc" - doesn't happen. machines with everything in place properly never get wet disks.

"constantly have to replace." - wrong. Ive had my 1971 Ariens for a decade, in the lake-effect snow belt of western NY, haven't replaced a disk yet.

So, your entire sentence was totally wrong in every possible detail.
please stop doing that.

thanks,
Scot


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## ST1100A

Hi Scot, we replace hundreds upon hundreds of friction discs a year on many different machines. A lot of those machines have only been used for 1 year and the discs are worn down to nothing. Cheap rubber?
I have seen far too many John Deere/Areins snowblowers that the disc gets wet, snow leaking in and ones that are left out in rain or people just wash and they wont move at all. John Deere had a service bulletin for us to replace one of the belt covers because they had so much problems with them not moving because they got wet on the disc and failed to move. I can remember picking up plenty of them on service calls because they wouldn't move when they were out blowing snow and they got wet and failed to move. We hooked them to a cable and winched them onto the roll back and took them back to the shop to let them dry out so they would move again. John Deere isn't the only ones that have the problem when they get wet, all of them do. And they do get wet, melting snow is one of the causes leaking down on them, we see that constantly.
With 40 plus experience working with outdoor power equipment I know what I am talking about when they slip. Before the hydro's came out, we had the gear drive Gravely's that are still running today, they are only 50 plus years old. A lot of your Gravely "Old Iron" fans were and are quite upset with Areins for discontinuing making those workhorses and turning out cheap equipment that isn't built to last and putting the Gravely name on it.
To some people a friction drive works fine for them. They don't hold up at all to our commercial people and our "Old Timers" who still enjoy "Manhandling" their "Old Iron" even though they are in their 70's and 80's.
I don't mean to upset you by stating my hands on facts and experience, but it does happen, and all too often with my customers. They either don't want to spend the money on quality equipment or another reason, the equipment just is not made with the quality anymore that it was 40-50 years ago.


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## sscotsman

ok, so you have some examples of customer error. 

" that are left out in rain" - customer error/poor care.

" melting snow is one of the causes leaking down on them" - customer error/poor care.

"They don't hold up at all to our commercial people" - commercial users, sure, the disks will wear out faster. but thats perfectly normal, and not a defect, its just heavy use. That still doesnt mean they should be called "worthless friction drive units"  So you are still wrong there. for normal "non-commercial" use, disks can go a decade or more before needing to be changed.

Sounds like maybe you found *one* individual John Deere model that had one legit manufacturer defect that did cause disks to get wet. Thats probably 1%, or less, of all friction disk machines, ever. and its a shrouding defect, a problem with a belt cover, still not a defect with the friction disk itself..

So for this comment:




> The Honda is a far cry from those poor Areins and other worthless friction drive units that are built today that can barely move themselves, even without being under a load, especially if they get wet down on the drive disc that you constantly have to replace.



instead of saying you are 100% wrong, I'll say you are 99% wrong. 

thanks,
Scot


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## tabora

Breckcapt said:


> Sooooooo, we’re talking raise the auger and tilt the machine to go up the stairs in a forward position? Or are we talking about going up a few steps in reverse. While I was originally thinking about the 928......what the heck, go big or go home. 1332 sounding good


I go up the steps forward and down backwards. I have (on occasion) placed my trailer ramps at the bottom of the stairs to ease the transition. They are made out of PT 2"x8"x8' with RamParts aluminum pieces https://www.lowes.com/pd/Highland-700-lb-Capacity-Loading-Ramp-Kit/4329131 at top and bottom and I'll place them on the 4th or 5th step up. If you only have a couple of steps to go up, I wouldn't bother. I do 2 steps all the time up and down from my patio.


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## Breckcapt

ST1100A said:


> Yes go up the steps in a forward position, you would be surprised the power and traction the track drive Honda has. Just tilt it back so it will climb the first step or two and away it goes,just let it crawl its way up the steps. You are not supposed to blow snow on the steps or while going up the steps but that never stopped me from doing so. It is not a safe thing to do though so I would not recommend you try that. When you go down the steps you can go forward and tilt it back and go step by step while holding it tipped back. If you back it down you would run the risk of losing control and it would run you over but you could do it very slowly. They don't want you to go up and down steps for safety reasons of course, you will make a lawyer rich if you get hurt doing that. My steps are kind of steep and I go up about 20 feet in height with mine on one stairway, another stairway is not quite as steep that I do.


Great, thanks. I’m just talking about from the sidewalk to the “pad/stoop” (is that still a word?) then just up to the deck. Two steps essentially.

Appreciate it......when the time comes I’ll ask if I should get any spares other than shear pins from you seasoned folks.....

Dave


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## ST1100A

sscotsman said:


> ok, so you have some examples of customer error.
> 
> " that are left out in rain" - customer error/poor care.
> 
> " melting snow is one of the causes leaking down on them" - customer error/poor care.
> 
> "They don't hold up at all to our commercial people" - commercial users, sure, the disks will wear out faster. but thats perfectly normal, and not a defect, its just heavy use. That still doesnt mean they should be called "worthless friction drive units"  So you are still wrong there. for normal "non-commercial" use, disks can go a decade or more before needing to be changed.
> 
> Sounds like maybe you found *one* individual John Deere model that had one legit manufacturer defect that did cause disks to get wet. Thats probably 1%, or less, of all friction disk machines, ever. and its a shrouding defect, a problem with a belt cover, still not a defect with the friction disk itself..
> 
> So for this comment:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> instead of saying you are 100% wrong, I'll say you are 99% wrong.
> 
> thanks,
> Scot


Hi again Scot, 
"Left out in the rain" they should be designed for that and be able to withstand that...Poor design and quality of materials, NOT "Customer Error".
"Melting snow..." which is normal under operating conditions, again poor design and quality of materials, NOT "Customer Error".
We get a lot of wet heavy snow around here, and deep at times, not the light fluffy dry "Lake Effect" snow that we wish for.
Excuses like you mentioned sound like the manufacturer's sales reps "excuse" instead of admitting that they made a mistake or are too cheap to satisfy the customer's needs. Those Sales Reps usually have a college degree in B.S.ing and they should have been a politician instead because they have no "Real World Knowledge" and are too lazy to get their hands dirty.
As for the John Deere, there were around a dozen different models that were effected with that.
"Commercial People", when they don't work, they are "Worthless" to them, they can't get the job done, that's time and money, plus a dissatisfied customer.
"Normal Non Commercial Use", those where most of the ones that the discs wore out on in a years time. The disc "Tire" only has a contact area of about 1/2 inch wide when new, not enough in our book. They should have a minimum of at least two to three inch width plus a much heavier contact pressure spring to prevent slipping from occurring and so the discs last much longer.
The only discs I saw last for a decade were on machines that sat in the garage and were not used for a decade. 
Sure the older machines had a much better disc tire that was wider and a heavier spring and lasted longer, but not the new ones anymore. That costs too much for the manufacturer to do that. It is all about money for them.
Actually I am 100% correct on what I stated before, I don't lie to my customers or try to come up with excuses as to why their machine is not performing as to their expectations.
My customers "Normal Usage" might be considered "Super Commercial" to you, but when you have elderly woman using the machine and it wears out a disc in a years time from a bad design to cut costs on manufacturing, there is no excuse for that.
I deal with upset customers daily and have to take a lot of abuse from them, I just state the facts and show them the problems and explain why the failures occurred. They like to hear the truth and not the Salesman's/Politician's excuse.
Many different times a Factory Sales Rep was present when a dissatisfied customer would come into our shop and complain about their machine, and the Factory Sales Rep would usually run and hide or sneak out the back door and leave because he did not want to hear the truth from the customer about the problems they were having with their product.


----------



## ST1100A

Breckcapt said:


> Great, thanks. I’m just talking about from the sidewalk to the “pad/stoop” (is that still a word?) then just up to the deck. Two steps essentially.
> 
> Appreciate it......when the time comes I’ll ask if I should get any spares other than shear pins from you seasoned folks.....
> 
> Dave


Hi Dave, you are welcome.
Thats not bad at all with the limited step climbing you do, just exercise caution when attempting steps, no matter how big or small.


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## RedOctobyr

ST1100A said:


> "Normal Non Commercial Use", those where most of the ones that the discs wore out on in a years time. The disc "Tire" only has a contact area of about 1/2 inch wide when new, not enough in our book. They should have a minimum of at least two to three inch width plus a much heavier contact pressure spring to prevent slipping from occurring and so the discs last much longer.
> The only discs I saw last for a decade were on machines that sat in the garage and were not used for a decade.
> Sure the older machines had a much better disc tire that was wider and a heavier spring and lasted longer, but not the new ones anymore. That costs too much for the manufacturer to do that. It is all about money for them.


I had an MTD, I replaced the friction disk when I bought it (at about 7 years old). I may have replaced it once while I used it, which was about 11-12 years of ownership, or maybe it still had that same disk when I sold it, I don't remember for sure. 

It *did* slip too easily, IMO, but my 2 Ariens since the MTD have a much more robust setup, without noticeable slipping. I suspect that the Ariens spins the friction disk faster, so that it needs to transfer less torque, helping to reduce slipping. Just like you wouldn't put the friction disk at the axle, it would never handle that much torque, you put it earlier in the transmission. 

Using your example, if you made the rubber friction disk 2" wide, I imagine you'd just introduce different problems. It's riding against another perpendicular rotating disk. So the rubber wheel is always sliding a bit. At the center of the rubber, maybe it's not sliding against the metal disk. But as you go left or right, you're against a different radius of the metal disk, so the rubber *has* to be sliding against it some (the outside edge of the metal disk is moving at more inches-per-second, vs closer to the center). Like your car's front tire during a tight, low-speed turn. 

The wider the rubber becomes, the more exaggerated this effect, and you'd constantly be sliding the rubber even more, even while just driving easily against no resistance. 



> Actually I am 100% correct on what I stated before, I don't lie to my customers or try to come up with excuses as to why their machine is not performing as to their expectations.
> My customers "Normal Usage" might be considered "Super Commercial" to you, but when you have elderly woman using the machine and it wears out a disc in a years time from a bad design to cut costs on manufacturing, there is no excuse for that.


I'm certainly not trying to accuse anyone of making stuff up. But not every friction machine is being worn out by a little old lady every year. You see lots of machines, and have a lot of experience to draw on. But it may also introduce some bias, because the broken ones *are* what you see. 

I can almost guarantee that more Toyota Corollas break during a year, than Ferraris. But that doesn't mean the Ferraris have a lower failure percentage. In most markets, there are a lot more friction machines in the field, than hydros. So I'm not surprised you'd see more worn-out disks than hydros. 

The rubber *is* a wear item, certainly. But so far, I'm willing to accept its drawbacks, for the reduced cost and complexity. And when mine does wear out, I'll replace it. I'm less confident that I could repair a failed hydro (even if that's unlikely), if that ever happened to me. 

I agree with Scot that it seems like painting with too-wide a brush to say friction setups are simply worthless and incapable. Heck, even Honda used them for a while. As with anything, there are better, and worse, implementations. My slipping MTD made me look for an alternative, like a geared Powershift. But after 7-8 years with my 2 Ariens, I've seen that some friction setups work quite well.


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## ST1100A

Yes I went a little overboard with 3 inches, a 1 and 1/2 would be better for the reasons you explained on the turning circumference, the larger the drive disc, the wider the driven disc tire would be better being geared down for torque reasons. The majority of my customers are "Old Timers" who are still running their 50' and 60's equipment because they were built so much better. They don't want to hear about the new stuff being built so much cheaper and not lasting as long. You are not going to change those people, they don't accept it. All they accept is robust things, not the disposable things of today.
A lot of the hydro's of today are coming down in price, they are built cheaper, but they are more expensive to repair, I have done many Hydro Gear units with cheap grade steel parts. The older Honda units were much better, but also with a much higher price. The rubber they use in today's drive tires is much poorer grade than old ones, another reason for wearing out so much quicker, they need a better grade of rubber that we keep screaming at the manufacturers about. Customers want longevity, they don't want to have to replace things so constantly, although we live in a "disposable world" today.


----------



## blue dragon

Well my new redesigned chute was delivered today. I ordered the one for use with the dual articulating discharge unit, so I'll convert my unit at the same time. I hope to do it this weekend, along with a reject to #92. Its too bad there is no snow to test it


----------



## RedOctobyr

ST1100A said:


> The majority of my customers are "Old Timers" who are still running their 50' and 60's equipment because they were built so much better. They don't want to hear about the new stuff being built so much cheaper and not lasting as long. You are not going to change those people, they don't accept it. All they accept is robust things, not the disposable things of today.


I do think it would be cool to try one of the walk-behind Gravely tractors. They sound pretty impressive. Though if they use a solid (fixed) axle, I have to imagine they'd be kinda tough to turn around at the end of a pass? 

One of the reasons that, if I were to eventually go for a Honda, I'd prefer to pony-up and get an HSS, for the triggers steering (especially if going tracks).


----------



## tadawson

One of our friends had the old fully geared Gravely back in the 70's (two, actuallly) with the mower, blower, and rotory plow. A true beast in all modes as I remember. Heavy as heck, and considering I don't ever recall seeing them fight it to turn with any attachment (including mower with riding sulky) I'm pretty certain it had some form of diff, but never ran it myself . . .


----------



## ST1100A

They had a differential in the old Gravely walk behind. The 4 speed models had a two speed differential. If they didn't have a diff. they would have been a real bear to turn at the weight they had.
There was a company that did make a Track drive for them at one time with skid steering. They also had a steering kit for them, it had wheel brakes that helped it turn when you used the sulky hitch-on seat.
There was also a Back-Hoe attachment that mounted to the front of the tractor, you should have seen that thing.
The old "L" model was fun to pull start with a crankshaft that weighed around 50-75 lbs and the long stroke with a long piston skirt. Eventually they came out with an optional electric start kit for them. You figure the engine on that beast was rated at 5, 6.6, and 7.2 horsepower with over 30 ft/lbs of torque. They were a slow revving engine with tons of torque. They usually ran around 1800 rpm's, like an old steam engine or a diesel, but they kept on chugging away and they were powerful.
Somebody did make a differential lock kit for them at one time, but that didn't work out well because you could not turn them without really fighting and struggling with it to turn, especially if it had the dual wheel kit on it.
I still have a couple of them and won't part with them. You should see some of the accessories they had for them, like some of the chain saws and circular saws, pumps, generators, plows, blowers, cutting decks with the brush hog blades almost 3/4" thick, roto plows and tillers, they were a lot of fun to play with.


----------



## ST1100A

RedOctobyr said:


> I do think it would be cool to try one of the walk-behind Gravely tractors. They sound pretty impressive. Though if they use a solid (fixed) axle, I have to imagine they'd be kinda tough to turn around at the end of a pass?
> 
> One of the reasons that, if I were to eventually go for a Honda, I'd prefer to pony-up and get an HSS, for the triggers steering (especially if going tracks).


Hi R.O. Yes you better believe they would be tough to turn if they had a solid "Live/Fixed" axle on them, especially when you had the dual wheel kit on them, and the older "L" models did not have any safety switches on them at all. You basically took your life into your own hands when operating them, but they were worth it for the work you could do with them. Sometimes they would tire you out a bit maneuvering them around, other times they went pretty easily depending on what you were doing with them.
If you ever get a chance to, operate one of them, you would get a thrill out of it.


----------



## blue dragon

Well I installed the updated chute into my Canadian blower. I also took the opportunity to convert to the double articulated discharge




























Out with the old clog prone chute















How is your cable for the chute adjusted? Am I getting the full range of motion?


----------



## leonz

As long as the sheathed cable can move you will always have the full range of motion and the upper linkage looks exactly like a multiple hinge chute should look like with the cable unlocked and released as the retract spring aids in pulling it up and also aiding the cable at the same time by pulling the spout upward as the spring retracts.


----------



## Breckcapt

blue dragon said:


> Well my new redesigned chute was delivered today. I ordered the one for use with the dual articulating discharge unit, so I'll convert my unit at the same time. I hope to do it this weekend, along with a reject to #92. Its too bad there is no snow to test it


Bring it on, pal.....


----------



## nwcove

RedOctobyr said:


> I do think it would be cool to try one of the walk-behind Gravely tractors. They sound pretty impressive. Though if they use a solid (fixed) axle, I have to imagine they'd be kinda tough to turn around at the end of a pass?
> 
> One of the reasons that, if I were to eventually go for a Honda, I'd prefer to pony-up and get an HSS, for the triggers steering (especially if going tracks).


my 1966 two speed gravely is a handful ! i run the dual wheels..just because i have them.....those make steering the sulky or just tilling a real work out . made the mistake of stepping in between the handle bars once while using the rotary plow......the plow caught a large rock and my hip/leg was black/blue/green for over a month when near of 8 feet of machine kicked like a mule.


----------



## ST1100A

nwcove said:


> my 1966 two speed gravely is a handful ! i run the dual wheels..just because i have them.....those make steering the sulky or just tilling a real work out . made the mistake of stepping in between the handle bars once while using the rotary plow......the plow caught a large rock and my hip/leg was black/blue/green for over a month when near of 8 feet of machine kicked like a mule.


OUCH!!!! I know what you mean, I did that a few times myself, with the same results. Make sure you have your seat set back far enough when using the "Sulky" , those handlebars are unforgiving.
Did the engine stall out when you hit the rock? or did it keep going while you were probably laying on the ground in misery? They were a beast of a machine, too bad they don't make them anymore.


----------



## sscotsman

Ok, lets stop talking about Gravelys please...totally off topic for this thread.
Thanks,
Scot


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## drmerdp

blue dragon said:


> Well I installed the updated chute into my Canadian blower. I also took the opportunity to convert to the double articulated discharge
> 
> How is your cable for the chute adjusted? Am I getting the full range of motion?


Did you replace the cable? The single deflector cable needs to be replaced with a dual deflector cable in order to get the full range of motion.


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## blue dragon

drmerdp said:


> Did you replace the cable? The single deflector cable needs to be replaced with a dual deflector cable in order to get the full range of motion.


Yes, I replaced the cable


----------



## drmerdp

blue dragon said:


> Yes, I replaced the cable


Ok good, proper adjustment is simply removing cable slack with the deflector fully extended. My middle deflector is pretty much parallel with the ground when fully angled.


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## ST1100A

It looks like it will give it a much smoother arc radius to keep it from backing up in the shoot when you aim it down towards the ground, looks like it should work pretty good.


----------



## Breckcapt

I believe this question is still germane to discussion of the Honda HSS928ATD/1332ATD within this thread so here goes.

Pictured below is the shoveled out area near the gas meter/line on the side of my house. Note the gutter above that does have heat tape but nevertheless while I have shaved off some of the overhanging snow in the area of the gas meter there remains quite a bit of snow that could fall.

Back story: this week in Breck we had a house explode and be completely demolished (two young fellas survived with back injuries and a broken arm) that left a three foot crater. It was due to an ice block from the roof coming down and wedging itself between the deep snow and the meter/line, breaking same. Gas emitted crept into house and ignited. Needless to say everyone up here is clearing their gas lines. (Most snow in over a decade, possibly more)

From the picture you can see the ground slopes away from the house and my ATD question is: would there be an issue with stability if I was to keep that area clear with a track 928/1332? I think we may be talking about 15 degrees or so? Is it essential that one of these bad boys remain horizontal? Would it possibly affect clogging? Obviously the chute would be clear but is there anything I need to be made aware of that would preclude me from driving the machine on a slope to the side, not “fore and aft” as we would say?

Link to story:

https://www.summitdaily.com/news/two-injured-after-house-exploded-in-breckenridge/


----------



## tabora

Breckcapt said:


> I think we may be talking about 15 degrees or so? Is it essential that one of these bad boys remain horizontal? Would it possibly affect clogging? Obviously the chute would be clear but is there anything I need to be made aware of that would preclude me from driving the machine on a slope to the side, not “fore and aft” as we would say?


I use my HSS1332ATD to make a path to my barn sideways across a slope that is probably close to 25 degrees. Sometimes, depending on how icy the lower surface is, I may have to crab it a bit as I cross the slope, but it has not been much of an issue. It's easy to crab with the steering triggers. I feel like I'm landing a heavy in a crosswind.


----------



## Breckcapt

Thanks, Tabora, great to know.

As a cruise ship pilot(R) of thousand+ footers crabbing 6 -9 degrees in a 400’ channel I can understand what you’re talking about! That is good news. I don’t have anywhere near that slope.

Appreciate it....

Dave


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## rfw1953

*Brekcap*, I'm your neighbor over in Crested Butte. We live at 9560' elevation. I have the Honda HSS1332ATD. I'm in my third season. The winter of 2016-2017 and this winter have been pretty epic with snow volume. I've had zero issues with my SB, and love it. I have the older chute design on my unit. The only time I experience a shute clog is if I wait until mid-day to clear snow when the temps rise and turn the snow into a slushy watery mess. I find it's best to catch it early in the morning before the snow melts or late afternoon after the sun sets and the temps drop back to freezing or below. Regardless, clogs have been minimal with my unit. 

I keep mine inside the garage that isn't heated. Never had a problem starting and I don't use a trickle charger. I'm 66 and find this model a breeze to maneuver. My deck is ground level. I only have one concrete slab step to climb and then the next step up is to the deck, so two steps in all. In all honesty, I find the SB a bit awkward to maneuver when the augur is tilted all the way to the up position. You have to bend over a good bit to grab the handles when it's in this position. I have also found that the tracks on my SB slip on the steps, thus losing traction, so I created a ramp from packed snow that works fine. 

As for clearing the snow on our deck, the Honda does a great job. We have Trex planking on our deck, so the last thing I want to do is damage the deck. The hydrolytic auger trigger allows you to keep the augur close enough to clear down to a low enough level to just leave a thin layer of snow on the deck without damaging the deck planking. Then I simply use a push shovel to push the remaining thin layer of snow into a pile that I can either use the SB to remove or shovel whats left easily over the deck side rails. Honestly, I have experienced a few nicks here and there on the deck when I got in a hurry or allowed the auger to be set too low. I try to lower the auger all the way down, and then *slightly* raise it just a tad to avoid damaging the deck planking. We get a good bit of roof shedding onto the deck that as you know hardens into ice if it sets up for too long. Even then the Honda eats right through the roof shed snow. 

I use mine on our driveway and to create a dog run in the grassy area off the deck for our Golden Retriever. I see you have a couple GR's as well. We only have one, but love the breed. Anyway, the SB does a great job in clearing the driveway and in keeping the dog run clean so our Golden can easily access and use.

Hope this was helpful. Keep us posted on what model you select and your experience with it.


----------



## Breckcapt

Ha! I have two Goldens and keep my back & side yards shoveled like you do to give them a run and play area off the back deck. Think “the maze from the movie Shining.” I’ve been shoveling it but looking forward to coming off the driveway and running around the side and back of the house. You may have heard we had a house explosion due to an ice block coming off the roof and busting out a gas meter. I’ll be keeping that area clear in the future as well.

One difference between us is I will have to keep the SB on my covered porch throughout the winter. I do see on the mountain at the lifts they have track Honda’s they leave out in the weather. I will take advice from on here and put a trickle charger on it and perhaps keep a spare battery. 

Interesting that with the auger raised you have to stoop down to to handles. I hadn’t thought of that and may be something to think about as I clear the grassy areas. 

Btw, as I write this it’s 17 degrees out and we’ve had a good 4-5 inches overnight.......go figure....this has been one heck of a winter, most I’ve seen in over twenty years. Meanwhile, many people on here talking about closing out the season.

Take care


----------



## feh

We had some crazy snow in the Midwest over the weekend, where about 4-6 inches of heavy wet snow fell. I fired up the 1332 and it handled the heart attack snow well, even though it doesn’t look like a lot, it was putting quite a bit of load in the engine. Never clogged.










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## lake_effect

Is it safe to say that all new two stage models are shipping with the revised chute?


----------



## ssls6

lake_effect said:


> Is it safe to say that all new two stage models are shipping with the revised chute?


I just bought one and the chute is revised....


----------



## lake_effect

ssls6 said:


> I just bought one and the chute is revised....



From local dealer or somewhere else? Probably going to order from Home Depot in the next few days.


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## ST1100A

lake_effect said:


> From local dealer or somewhere else? Probably going to order from Home Depot in the next few days.


Watch out with anything from Home Cheapo. You could be getting a model that is a couple of years old that is brand new still in the box, not the latest most current model you could get from an Authorized Honda Dealer.


----------



## lake_effect

ST1100A said:


> Watch out with anything from Home Cheapo. You could be getting a model that is a couple of years old that is brand new still in the box, not the latest most current model you could get from an Authorized Honda Dealer.



My local dealer has had the same (old) version sitting on their floor and they won't budge on price. HD has a better price and I can get another 6% off on top of that through some credit card hacking. It seems like HD drop ships them directly from manufacturer. I would assume all the old ones have been cleared out?


----------



## ssls6

lake_effect said:


> From local dealer or somewhere else? Probably going to order from Home Depot in the next few days.


sn 10177xx HSS1332AATD

From PowerEquipmentDirect (PED)


----------



## lake_effect

lake_effect said:


> My local dealer has had the same (old) version sitting on their floor and they won't budge on price. HD has a better price and I can get another 6% off on top of that through some credit card hacking. It seems like HD drop ships them directly from manufacturer. I would assume all the old ones have been cleared out?





To answer my own question, the model I ordered did have the revised chute. The label on outside of box said "2019" after the model number. It shipped from "Saddle Creek Corp" in Joliet, IL, which appears to be a logistics company. Would not hesitate to buy from HD again. Unboxing is half the fun of buying something new! Don't get to do that when you buy from local dealer. :smile2:


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## vmax29

Good luck with the new machine! 

I bought my ATD online through Acme Tool Co. (Same place Wile E. Coyote shops 🙂). They had the best price I found at the time and drop shipped right to the house.


----------



## Luther

Just bought a honda hss1332CTD (Canada model) looks like they got some bugs out of the shute, good lot of wet stuff here, just get a few mods done etc oxford hand warmer, done , 110 jet on its way, Ctet charger done, coffee mug holder,You are wright tabora it sure does climb up my steep ramps. Like to thank all the members for the great input Cheers Dave


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## SkunkyLawnmowers

Just in case it saves anyone some money........

Home Depot are doing the HSS series (with new chutes) for appx $100 below Honda's list recommended price. $200 off list price for the 1332.


----------



## tabora

SkunkyLawnmowers said:


> Home Depot are doing the HSS series (with new chutes) for appx $100 below Honda's list recommended price. $200 off list price for the 1332.


But still no "D" models, so you can't get the top-o-the-line ones from them... My HSS1332ATD was $200 below MSRP at my local dealer.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

tabora said:


> But still no "D" models, so you can't get the top-o-the-line ones from them... My HSS1332ATD was $200 below MSRP at my local dealer.


That's good that your local dealer discounted. I was thinking of some of the other people who are reporting that their deal;ers were firm on price (mine included). 

Personally - and some may disagree with me - I can take or leave the electric start which I believe is the main difference with the D models. I think it's great that a big chain are selling the HSS line, spreads the word etc.


----------



## tabora

SkunkyLawnmowers said:


> ...the electric start which I believe is the main difference with the D models...


The double-articulated chute, the Auger Shear Bolt Guard and Hour Meter on the HSS1332ATD were additional inducements, as well.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

Also - if they had been selling these when I bought my Honda, I would have bought from a store like Home Depot. I feel there is more customer safety and comeback if there is a problem. 

I know it's pot luck what kind of local Honda dealer one can end up with but mine is quite snobbish, gives it the 'what do you expect me to do it about it' line and makes you feel they can take or leave your business. So a bit of competition from larger chains might benefit the wider customer base. 

Of course, a good local Honda dealer who does want your business will be invaluable for specialist knowledge, etc. Then again, our Hondas being as bullet proff as they are we won't ever need to contact the dealer - right?


----------



## ST1100A

SkunkyLawnmowers said:


> Just in case it saves anyone some money........
> 
> Home Depot are doing the HSS series (with new chutes) for appx $100 below Honda's list recommended price. $200 off list price for the 1332.
> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoor...Equipment-Snow-Blowers/Honda/N-5yc1vZbxc5Z3le


Home Depot can only sell down to a certain price, they cant go below that.
An Authorized Honda Dealer can sell for a lot less than Home Depot can because they are allowed to, Home Depot is not allowed to sell below a specified amount.
Home Depot can sell at $200 below MSRP.
An Authorized Honda Dealer can sell at $1500 below MSRP. They can actually sell it at their "Cost" which is about 50% less than MSRP.
The Honda Dealer usually wont sell that low because they wouldn't be making any money. Home Depot is a much bigger store that sells a lot of other merchandise besides snowblowers to make their money on, so they wont be loosing as much money as a much smaller store like the Authorized Honda Dealership.
Your Honda Dealer's can sell at a lower price than Home Depot, but Home Depot is NOT ALLOWED to sell at a lower price than the lowest price the Honda Dealer can sell for.


----------



## Miles

I have read here on this forum that the Honda snowblowers sold at Home Depot are the same quality as the dealer units. Has anyone here heard differently?

I did buy a John Deere lawn tractor at Home Depot in 2005 that was of inferior quality. It did not last and was cheaply made. It is not the same quality as at the John Deere dealership, although the tuff torq transmission on the dealer's X300 series is not that good.


----------



## vmax29

Same quality. Just without any “bells and whistles”


----------



## ST1100A

tabora said:


> Sorry @ST110A, but that is patently untrue. Please stop spreading that myth. All Honda models made in the same plant for distribution in the same geographic market are the same quality. Period.
> 
> And I'm still awaiting your proof that GX engines are made in Swepsonville, not Thailand.


TB, I was just out mowing my grass with my Honda mower with the GX powered engine on it. I was looking at the "MADE IN USA" cast on the engine itself.
If I can figure out how to send you a picture of the large casting on the engine I will do that for you.
It is casted in big letters about a half inch big each letter.
The mower was purchased new at my dealership back in 1993-94.
Back then all the GX engines sold in the USA were made in either America or Japan at that time. They started importing the China motors in the later 90's with the GC's and that's when they went downhill with those early GC motors.


----------



## Zavie

Miles said:


> I have read here on this forum that the Honda snowblowers sold at Home Depot are the same quality as the dealer units. Has anyone here heard differently?
> 
> I did buy a John Deere lawn tractor at Home Depot in 2005 that was of inferior quality. It did not last and was cheaply made. It is not the same quality as at the John Deere dealership, although the tuff torq transmission on the dealer's X300 series is not that good.


X300 series, of course X330 is the beginning model in the lawn tractor 300 series now, are only available at JD dealers these days. Home Depot only carries the E100 series of riding lawn mowers.


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## sscotsman

I just deleted some posts, and replies, about the myth that there are *different* cheaper quality models made specifically for the Big Box stores, and that Big Box models can have cheaper components than the "dealer version". (Or to put it another way, the myth that there can be a "dealer version" and a "big box version" with cheaper components, of the *same* model.) It's been confirmed many times that isnt true.

I did some research on Ariens Big-Box versus dealer machines several years ago, I wrote this on my Ariens webpage:



> Yes, its true you will find the "low end" machines at the big boxes, (and the big-boxes carry the mid and higher levels too) but! in my travels around Western NY, all the dealers carry the same low-end models as
> the big boxes! they probably arent happy about it, but they have to carry them just to survive..
> If you are a dealer, and Home Depot is selling machines for $599, and all yours start at $800..well, anyone can see thats not a healthy business practice.
> 
> Yes, I suppose there might be some independant dealers out there who can, with all honesty and truthfullness, say "Home Depot and Lowes carry the cheaper machines, I dont have those cheap models in my store".
> 
> If that is true, its only due to that dealers _personal choice._
> and if there are any dealers making that choice, I bet they are few...
> I havent seen any.
> 
> That is the only scenerio where anyone could truthfully say "The snowblower manufacturers make lower-quality machines for the Lowes/ Home Depot/ Walmart market, but I dont carry those models here."
> 
> So in a general sense, its a total myth. there are not _different_ models made for the Big-box market, that are different than the same model you would get at a dealer, they are all the same models at both places. However I believe its quite likely that newer, lower-end models have been created *because of* the big-box market! (because people must have their cheap junk).. to the detriment of the entire industry, and that is likely what led to this myth..but thats really a different scenerio.
> 
> Having said all that, I agree with the many who say its always much better to buy from the independant dealer! for two major reasons:
> 
> 1. Quality assembly by knowledgeable technicians. this is VERY important!
> 2. Service and support after the sale, also very important.
> 
> You get neither of those from the big-boxes.
> 
> I have read a lot about problems with newer, quality machines..almost always these machines were bought from a big-box..and were assembled by people who dont know what they are doing. I went to a lot of Big-box stores for knowledge, just to look at lots of different machines..but if I was going to buy a new one, I wouldnt buy one there.


Im sure all the manufacturers have the same conflicts when it comes to dealer vs. Big Box sales..Walmart literally *demands* that manufacturers cheapen their products as much as possible, to get prices down, and if they dont like it, fine, Walmart wont carry your products. And for some companys, Walmart is necessary for their survival. Sad times..

Scot


----------



## lake_effect

ST1100A said:


> TB, I was just out mowing my grass with my Honda mower with the GX powered engine on it. I was looking at the "MADE IN USA" cast on the engine itself.
> If I can figure out how to send you a picture of the large casting on the engine I will do that for you.
> It is casted in big letters about a half inch big each letter.
> The mower was purchased new at my dealership back in 1993-94.
> Back then all the GX engines sold in the USA were made in either America or Japan at that time. They started importing the China motors in the later 90's with the GC's and that's when they went downhill with those early GC motors.



Here is a video from the Swepsonville plant: 





If you go towards the end, you will see them putting together GX engines for snowblowers. At best, they are "assembling" the engine as this plant but not forging or casting anything. You do however see them building GC engines from start to finish.


Personally, I find myself caring less about county of origin if the quality is the same as domestic.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

Great video, thanks for posting, found it interesting. Looks like quite hard work, too. 

What happens if you need the bathroom? Does the production line stop?! Maybe someone covers for you


----------



## tabora

lake_effect said:


> If you go towards the end, you will see them putting together GX engines for snowblowers.


 That's a great video; thanks for sharing! The video only shows them prepping the GX engines for assembly into the snowblowers and no actual GX building or even assembly other than the application specific parts like the gas tank, etc. Per Honda, the GX engines have always been produced in Japan or Thailand, and briefly in China. Thailand has been producing all the GX engines for US manufacturing for about 30 years.










https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1173833-post38.html
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/716666-post15.html


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## SkunkyLawnmowers

9 minutes 50 onwards shows the assembly of snowblowers.


----------



## ST1100A

Tabora, I sent you a private message, I dont know if you will get it. I am trying to send you pictures of a GX engine with the "Made In USA" casted on it and I want to be able to send you other documents when I can get them copied and scanned but I dont know how to do that on here, I might have to send them to you by private email.


----------



## ST1100A

SkunkyLawnmowers said:


> Great video, thanks for posting, found it interesting. Looks like quite hard work, too.
> 
> What happens if you need the bathroom? Does the production line stop?! Maybe someone covers for you


They have "Floaters" who walk the assembly lines for that purpose, and if someone gets hurt or tired or anything else happens.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

We were talking about Home Depot stocking some of the HSS models. Just as an update, Home Depot are now stocking _all_ the HSS series models to include the electric start variants (D). 

The 724s are typically discounted by $100 off of manufacturer's recommended retail, the 928s by $130 and the 1332s offered at $200 off of list. 

Edit / add - I don't have a thing for Home Depot or any of the big stores - but - it gives another option to buying at a power equipment dealer. My expoerience at my local dealer was not good, maybe a gender issue. If somewhere like Home Depot are still stocking Hondas down the line, I'll probably buy my next one from them.

Strangely, I tried to link to Home Depot's Honda line up but when you click the link on here it just brings up the generic Home Depot home page.


----------



## EOD

SkunkyLawnmowers said:


> We were talking about Home Depot stocking some of the HSS models....
> Just as an update, Home Depot are now stocking _all_ the HSS series models to include the electric start variants (D). The 724s are typically discounted by $100 off of manufacturer's recommended retail, the 928s by $130 and the 1332s offered at $200 off of list.


Well, that's crazy. I've checked HD site on and off for a couple weeks for a HSS1332ATD and they showed no stock/backorder/unavailable. Now they show in stock.
I bought one from another dealer today though, so i'm good. And mine has the new updated chute so I'm happy.
Glad to see Home Depot carrying the best line of snowblowers in the world :wink2:


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

EOD said:


> Well, that's crazy. I've checked HD site on and off for a couple weeks for a HSS1332ATD and they showed no stock/backorder/unavailable. Now they show in stock.
> I bought one from another dealer today though, so i'm good. And mine has the new updated chute so I'm happy.
> Glad to see Home Depot carrying the best line of snowblowers in the world :wink2:


My thought's entirely!! 

I'm betting enough people were asking for the electric start versions that they soon decided to stock the whole line up. Can only be a good thing for the Honda brand, IMO.


----------



## 71Dragtruck

Yeah I just couldn't see myself buying a tracked 1332 and not paying the extra money for the electric start and taller chute, but maybe some just don't want to have to deal with a battery in the off season, but I'm not that guy.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

I have to confess I have been a bit neglectful of my batteries in the past, but not anymore!! I bought this last year and it has been great for both my car and power equipment batteries. Worth every penny, IMHO. It comes with crocodile clips for car batteries and ring connectors for smaller batteries. 


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K87YZ3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Ronster1332

Jae0 said:


> For my fellow Canadians; I’ve called Honda Canada customer support to inquire about the status of any service bulletins related to redesigned chutes for the HSS machines and they had (apparently) zero knowledge about any problems, bulletins or new hardware, and “just because the comes to the USA doesn’t mean it will come to Canada”. Awesome.


Picked up my HSS 1332 CTD Nov. 10, 2019 - brand new.

It had the “revised” or “new” chute installed. 
There was a 2018 HSS 1332 CT (non-electric start) on the showroom floor that had the old-style chute.

Honda must be installing the new chutes as OEM now.

Dealer never heard of any complaints of clogging, and they have 4 stores in their franchise. That’s a lot of machines sold. Dealer is located in Toronto area where we get a lot of wet, heavy, slushy snow.

Dealer also never heard of rejetting being needed.

Paid $200 CDN under MSRP.


----------



## tabora

Ronster1332 said:


> Dealer never heard of any complaints of clogging, and they have 4 stores in their franchise. That’s a lot of machines sold. Dealer is located in Toronto area where we get a lot of wet, heavy, slushy snow. Dealer also never heard of rejetting being needed.


 And that's the issue... Dealership personnel are rarely OPE enthusiasts (such as you'll find posting here), and few probably even use the products that they sell. They set up/service them per the specifications they're provided, but don't research them much outside of work, and probably not that much at work, either. These are not motorcycles or cars that most young people get interested in.

When I took the HSS TSBs that [email protected] had posted into my local dealer, the personnel at the counter knew nothing about them, and the service manager only knew about 1 out of 3.


----------



## CalgaryPT

tabora said:


> And that's the issue... Dealership personnel are rarely OPE enthusiasts (such as you'll find posting here), and few probably even use the products that they sell.


Bingo. I think this issue was discussed a couple of years ago. Similar responses in Calgary. As @tabora says, people on this forum know the machines better.


----------



## Cycle11111

Do you have clogging upgrades that will address this issue. I have an brand new HSS928AD that I use in Truckee Ca and this weekend it clogged big time.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

@Cycle11111

Summary - the main things you can do are: 

* revised chute - yours may have it (see thread above for picture)
* impeller kit to close impeller end gap to housing 
* some people advocate rejetting carb
* use plenty of anti friction spray around auger, housing and chute


----------



## Hondayota

I'm a new Honda owner who purchased a used 2017 HSS724AAWD machine after reading all about the Honda snowblower's reputation on this site. This interest started after I purchased a used Honda HRX217 mower this past summer, which gave me the thirst for more Honda power. Anyhow, I first brought a HS724 in early October and got a real deal on this 1992 model machine that was perfectly maintained and looked new. Very impressive! However, after trying to maneuver it around and engage/disengage the tranny, it really seemed kinda clunky so I brought the HSS724 the next weekend, and flipped the HS724 for a profit the following week.

I was a little nervous about the HSS724 (old design chute) after I got it home after reading about all stories of clogging and noticing that the mounted de-clogging stick had a lot of deep scratches on it. I am near Boston, so I assume the previous owner had quite a few clogs. After doing a complete maintenance/greasing check on it, I took the advise given here to re-jet to a #82. The first snow this year was horrible, 11" of wet snow, 31 deg temp. Turned the key and charged ahead. The HSS724 performed great no bogging, no speed issues, and no clogging. What a relief! Now the EOD varied from 24-30", and I only took half-bucket bites at a slower speed and again no issues whatsoever. BTW, the HSS easy steer capabilities, IMO, are a vast improvement over the HS steering. Again, I really can't expect much worst snow but expect this machine to be able to handle it on my 2000 sqft driveway.


----------



## CalgaryPT

Good for you. Congrats.


----------



## BNSFguy

sscotsman said:


> I did some research on Ariens Big-Box versus dealer machines several years ago, I wrote this on my Ariens webpage:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, its true you will find the "low end" machines at the big boxes, (and the big-boxes carry the mid and higher levels too) but! in my travels around Western NY, all the dealers carry the same low-end models as
> the big boxes! they probably arent happy about it, but they have to carry them just to survive..
> If you are a dealer, and Home Depot is selling machines for $599, and all yours start at $800..well, anyone can see thats not a healthy business practice.
> 
> Yes, I suppose there might be some independant dealers out there who can, with all honesty and truthfullness, say "Home Depot and Lowes carry the cheaper machines, I dont have those cheap models in my store".
> 
> If that is true, its only due to that dealers _personal choice._
> and if there are any dealers making that choice, I bet they are few...
> I havent seen any.
> 
> That is the only scenerio where anyone could truthfully say "The snowblower manufacturers make lower-quality machines for the Lowes/ Home Depot/ Walmart market, but I dont carry those models here."
> 
> So in a general sense, its a total myth. there are not _different_ models made for the Big-box market, that are different than the same model you would get at a dealer, they are all the same models at both places. However I believe its quite likely that newer, lower-end models have been created *because of* the big-box market! (because people must have their cheap junk).. to the detriment of the entire industry, and that is likely what led to this myth..but thats really a different scenerio.
> 
> Having said all that, I agree with the many who say its always much better to buy from the independant dealer! for two major reasons:
> 
> 1. Quality assembly by knowledgeable technicians. this is VERY important!
> 2. Service and support after the sale, also very important.
> 
> You get neither of those from the big-boxes.
> 
> I have read a lot about problems with newer, quality machines..almost always these machines were bought from a big-box..and were assembled by people who dont know what they are doing. I went to a lot of Big-box stores for knowledge, just to look at lots of different machines..but if I was going to buy a new one, I wouldnt buy one there.
> 
> 
> 
> Im sure all the manufacturers have the same conflicts when it comes to dealer vs. Big Box sales..Walmart literally *demands* that manufacturers cheapen their products as much as possible, to get prices down, and if they dont like it, fine, Walmart wont carry your products. And for some companys, Walmart is necessary for their survival. Sad times..
> 
> Scot
Click to expand...

I purchased my Ariens Pro RapidTrak 28" from the "big box store". In fact, it was Lowe's. They offered me 24 month 0 % APR financing and gave me 10% Veterans discount. I ordered it and picked it up in the crate. I enjoyed assembling it myself. There's really not much to do. Screw a few bolts, hook up a few cables, and install the chute and handlebars. I see no reason not to purchase from the big box store if you so choose to. Buying from a reputable dealer is a great option if there's one close by and they can offer you a good price. I appreciate Lowe's Veterans discount on everything. It saved me over $300.00 on my Blower purchase alone.


----------



## SkunkyLawnmowers

Hondayota said:


> I'm a new Honda owner who purchased a used 2017 HSS724AAWD machine after reading all about the Honda snowblower's reputation on this site.


Hello & welcome! 

I have been very happy with my 2017 HSS724, Parker, bought new in 2018.

I did have clogging issues in very cold, wet slushy mess but solved that with fitting an impeller kit I made. 

Glad to hear your re-jet has worked for you. I'll hold off on doing mine if Parker continues to perform as expected. Maybe either the impeller kit mod or the re-jet makes enough difference to solve the clogging issue.


----------



## Cycle11111

I contacted Honda and they reached back out to me and my local dealer - Truckee Rents - and had them order the upgraded chute parts. Props to Truckee Rents they picked up the machine upgraded the chute and returned it in half a day.


----------



## jdurand

My local dealer just confirmed that Honda will cover the chute update on my HSS1332ATD. When I originally brought it up to their Service Department, they seemed legitimately unaware of the issue and the bulletin that Honda had put out. They checked and called back the next day. Seems like they should have been more aware and also more proactive on this to help their customers and also get compensation for their shop from Honda for doing the upgrade??


----------



## Fortech1977

Has any fellow Canadians been lucky enough to have the newer replacement chute replaced under warranty by Honda Canada (free of charge)?

I had quite a bit of trouble with mine clogging last winter. When making an inquiry to the dealer last year, I was simply told that a fix was in the works and they should know more for the 2019/2020 season


----------



## CalgaryPT

Fortech1977 said:


> Has any fellow Canadians been lucky enough to have the newer replacement chute replaced under warranty by Honda Canada (free of charge)?
> 
> I had quite a bit of trouble with mine clogging last winter. When making an inquiry to the dealer last year, I was simply told that a fix was in the works and they should know more for the 2019/2020 season


In Calgary my dealer was still blissfully unaware of the issue even as of November 2019. I haven't asked since. My machine is 4 years old now anyways, and we get little wet snow here like you get in NL. At some point I may do the mod myself, but if I were buying/owned a new machine I'd keep the pressure on the dealer.


----------



## Fortech1977

CalgaryPT said:


> In Calgary my dealer was still blissfully unaware of the issue even as of November 2019. I haven't asked since. My machine is 4 years old now anyways, and we get little wet snow here like you get in NL. At some point I may do the mod myself, but if I were buying/owned a new machine I'd keep the pressure on the dealer.


I will likely end up doing the mod myself as well but figured it wouldn’t hurt to see if anyone was lucky enough to get a replacement supplied by Honda.

Thanks...


----------



## kirky2126

I checked with service debt at Honda one and my 2015 Honda is still under warranty and the new chute design is covered ... cost $150 to buy .. I got a month left on my warranty as soon as all this snow gets cleared up I got to take her in for new chute and slowing down problem


----------



## Fortech1977

kirky2126 said:


> I checked with service debt at Honda one and my 2015 Honda is still under warranty and the new chute design is covered ... cost $150 to buy .. I got a month left on my warranty as soon as all this snow gets cleared up I got to take her in for new chute and slowing down problem


What is the slowing down problem you are referring to?


----------



## tabora

Fortech1977 said:


> What is the slowing down problem you are referring to?


See Service Bulletin 30 here: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...lletin-intermittent-ground-speed-slowing.html


----------



## kirky2126

Every now and then the travel speed slows to a crawl .. the dealer said the transmission needs to be bleed and that’ll fix the problem


----------



## jfdaigle

Hey fellow canucks. FYI.. Honda Canada did solve my clogging problem (replaced chute with new assembly 3 weeks ago) after numerous calls to local dealer last fall. Didn't cost a dime. Brought unit myself and took 5 days to complete upgrade. BTW, I'm from N.B and bought a new 1332 in Dec 2018. Heavier, wet snow no longer an issue. Best of luck..


----------



## CalgaryPT

Thanks for the update. I'm surprized they did, but happy for you. Mine is a 2016 model, so not sure if they would do it. I had planned to mod it myself, but we don't get much wet stuff here in Calgary. Good for you though.


----------



## Jae0

jfdaigle said:


> Hey fellow canucks. FYI.. Honda Canada did solve my clogging problem (replaced chute with new assembly 3 weeks ago) after numerous calls to local dealer last fall. Didn't cost a dime. Brought unit myself and took 5 days to complete upgrade. BTW, I'm from N.B and bought a new 1332 in Dec 2018. Heavier, wet snow no longer an issue. Best of luck..




I’m glad to see Honda Canada now stepping up. I’m also in NB, and battled for the chute with my dealership & Honda Canada last year, to no avail. I ended up buying the revised chute from the US and when the machine was up for service had them install it; which they ultimately did for free “since we were already there”. Then last week, 2 weeks after my warrant my ran out, I had a chute controller failure (not the normal motor failure, but the joystick itself), and again Honda Canada wouldn’t budge on helping. Still loving the machine, but wish they’d be a bit more helpful when you fork out so much on their equipment.


----------



## Robert Byrne

Does anybody know if there's an official TSB (technical service bulletin) I can reference, when I take this to my local Honda Dealer. Robert's post is a nice point of reference but Dealer's around here (NL) are famous for pushing back on their customers, and while my HSS724 is under warranty, I know I'll have a hard time getting them to fix it.


----------



## tabora

Robert Byrne said:


> Does anybody know if there's an official TSB (technical service bulletin) I can reference, when I take this to my local Honda Dealer. Robert's post is a nice point of reference but Dealer's around here (NL) are famous for pushing back on their customers, and while my HSS724 is under warranty, I know I'll have a hard time getting them to fix it.


Assuming you're referring to the modified chute, in the U.S. it is TSB #031. (Although one person said their paperwork showed #034.)


----------



## Red Isle

Robert Byrne said:


> Does anybody know if there's an official TSB (technical service bulletin) I can reference, when I take this to my local Honda Dealer. Robert's post is a nice point of reference but Dealer's around here (NL) are famous for pushing back on their customers, and while my HSS724 is under warranty, I know I'll have a hard time getting them to fix it.


I'm curious if you had any luck with your dealer in NFLD. Here in PEI the last couple storms were wet snow. I eventually gave up on the blower and got the shovel out to get the worst of it at the end of the driveway. I spoke to my dealer her in 2019 and they don't know anything about the issue and were not prepared to do anything.

Any advice on how you got along would be helpful.


----------



## sgagnon2020

Robert Byrne said:


> Does anybody know if there's an official TSB (technical service bulletin) I can reference, when I take this to my local Honda Dealer. Robert's post is a nice point of reference but Dealer's around here (NL) are famous for pushing back on their customers, and while my HSS724 is under warranty, I know I'll have a hard time getting them to fix it.


Have you had any luck on this front? I'm in St John's and was hoping to touch base with Honda One on the chute for my HSS724.


----------



## Arcticnorth

Yesterday I took delivery of a brand new HSS970A ETD, it has the new chute design that hopefully will prevent clogging in wet snow. The production date of the machine is June 2020.


----------



## RIT333

Like a car, does it have that new snowblower smell ? Looks awesome being so shiny.


----------



## digdex

I have to say that my HSS724ATD is one of the worst purchases I've ever made. Even with the chute mod and spraying the chute with Fluid Film the machine still clogs and is basically useless in wet snow. I owned a Toro for years and then a Ariens which I gave to my son when I bought this POS. I wish I had it back, even with the 7 horse Suburu engine it would still shoot wet slush. This thing the slush never makes it out of the chute. I can't believe the machine is this bad. Totally disappointed.


----------



## RIT333

Where do you live ? PM me a price. I may be interested.


----------



## sgagnon2020

digdex said:


> I have to say that my HSS724ATD is one of the worst purchases I've ever made. Even with the chute mod and spraying the chute with Fluid Film the machine still clogs and is basically useless in wet snow. I owned a Toro for years and then a Ariens which I gave to my son when I bought this POS. I wish I had it back, even with the 7 horse Suburu engine it would still shoot wet slush. This thing the slush never makes it out of the chute. I can't believe the machine is this bad. Totally disappointed.


I have the same machine and I have never expected it to perform like a beast having 5.5 peak HP. Mine will throw slush across the street but I've installed an impeller kit, re-jetted for the altitude and keep it well maintained. You can't ram it into a berm or wet heavy snow like a 928 or 1332 without worry.. Could there be an underlying issue that is reducing its performance? Have you re-jetted, is everything tight, is the belt worn or loose?


----------



## digdex

sgagnon2020 said:


> I have the same machine and I have never expected it to perform like a beast having 5.5 peak HP. Mine will throw slush across the street but I've installed an impeller kit, re-jetted for the altitude and keep it well maintained. You can't ram it into a berm or wet heavy snow like a 928 or 1332 without worry.. Could there be an underlying issue that is reducing its performance? Have you re-jetted, is everything tight, is the belt worn or loose?


My machine has less than 8 hours of use and is in mint condition. I have not re-jetted or installed an impeller kit. I know about re-jetting but I don't feel I should have to. What is the impeller kit ? Plus, why should you need to go through this on a machine that costs twice as much as a Ariens of the same size.


----------



## sgagnon2020

digdex said:


> My machine has less than 8 hours of use and is in mint condition. I have not re-jetted or installed an impeller kit. I know about re-jetting but I don't feel I should have to. What is the impeller kit ? Plus, why should you need to go through this on a machine that costs twice as much as a Ariens of the same size.


Well the Honda GX engines are lean from factory to meet California emission standards. So your stock jet atm is a #75 but at your altitude of 200ft (I think you mentioned in a previous thread) you should be using at least an #82. This is what I currently have in my machine. Some have used an #85. 

An impeller kit will close the gap between the impeller and impeller housing so it clears all the slush out of the housing and reduces the chance of build up and clogging. Here's my impeller kit installed.

Do these two things and I promise you won't feel the same as you do right now.


----------



## digdex

sgagnon2020 said:


> Well the Honda GX engines are lean from factory to meet California emission standards. So your stock jet atm is a #75 but at your altitude of 200ft (I think you mentioned in a previous thread) you should be using at least an #82. This is what I currently have in my machine. Some have used an #85.
> 
> An impeller kit will close the gap between the impeller and impeller housing so it clears all the slush out of the housing and reduces the chance of build up and clogging. Here's my impeller kit installed.
> 
> Do these two things and I promise you won't feel the same as you do right now.
> 
> View attachment 174718
> 
> View attachment 174719


Doe's the re-jetting void any warranty ? Where can I get the impeller kit and how hard is it to install ? Thanks


----------



## sgagnon2020

digdex said:


> Doe's the re-jetting void any warranty ? Where can I get the impeller kit and how hard is it to install ? Thanks


Rejetting does not void the warranty. It's a fairly easy and quick 10 minute job and is a cheap and easy fix for a lack of power.
Here's a walkthrough video.





Links to purchase





Honda 99101-ZH8-0820 - JET, MAIN (#82) | Boats.net


Buy Honda 99101-ZH8-0820 - JET, MAIN (#82). This OEM part is guaranteed by Honda's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Boats.net




www.boats.net









Honda 99101-ZH8-0850 - JET, MAIN (#85) | Boats.net


Buy Honda 99101-ZH8-0850 - JET, MAIN (#85). This OEM part is guaranteed by Honda's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Boats.net




www.boats.net





The impeller kit will probably void the warranty so leave that alone for now if you are still under your warranty period.
When the time comes though if you're handy you can make your own.
Or you can order a pre-made kit. I purchased this one.








100% Stainless HONDA Snowblower Direct Fit Impeller Kit HSS724 HSS928 HSS1332 | eBay


My kit fits ALL HSS724 HSS928 and HSS1332 machines. -Protect the impeller housing from rocks and pebbles that can jam between the impeller and housing causing gouging. Universal impeller kits DO NOT FIT.



www.ebay.com


----------



## digdex

sgagnon2020 said:


> Rejetting does not void the warranty. It's a fairly easy and quick 10 minute job and is a cheap and easy fix for a lack of power.
> Here's a walkthrough video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Links to purchase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honda 99101-ZH8-0820 - JET, MAIN (#82) | Boats.net
> 
> 
> Buy Honda 99101-ZH8-0820 - JET, MAIN (#82). This OEM part is guaranteed by Honda's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Boats.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.boats.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honda 99101-ZH8-0850 - JET, MAIN (#85) | Boats.net
> 
> 
> Buy Honda 99101-ZH8-0850 - JET, MAIN (#85). This OEM part is guaranteed by Honda's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Boats.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.boats.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The impeller kit will probably void the warranty so leave that alone for now if you are still under your warranty period.
> When the time comes though if you're handy you can make your own.
> Or you can order a pre-made kit. I purchased this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100% Stainless HONDA Snowblower Direct Fit Impeller Kit HSS724 HSS928 HSS1332 | eBay
> 
> 
> My kit fits ALL HSS724 HSS928 and HSS1332 machines. -Protect the impeller housing from rocks and pebbles that can jam between the impeller and housing causing gouging. Universal impeller kits DO NOT FIT.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


My elevation is about 100 feet. Can you explain the difference between #82 or #85. Thanks


----------



## IndianaRidgeline

sgagnon2020 said:


> Rejetting does not void the warranty. It's a fairly easy and quick 10 minute job and is a cheap and easy fix for a lack of power.
> Here's a walkthrough video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Links to purchase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honda 99101-ZH8-0820 - JET, MAIN (#82) | Boats.net
> 
> 
> Buy Honda 99101-ZH8-0820 - JET, MAIN (#82). This OEM part is guaranteed by Honda's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Boats.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.boats.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honda 99101-ZH8-0850 - JET, MAIN (#85) | Boats.net
> 
> 
> Buy Honda 99101-ZH8-0850 - JET, MAIN (#85). This OEM part is guaranteed by Honda's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Boats.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.boats.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The impeller kit will probably void the warranty so leave that alone for now if you are still under your warranty period.
> When the time comes though if you're handy you can make your own.
> Or you can order a pre-made kit. I purchased this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100% Stainless HONDA Snowblower Direct Fit Impeller Kit HSS724 HSS928 HSS1332 | eBay
> 
> 
> My kit fits ALL HSS724 HSS928 and HSS1332 machines. -Protect the impeller housing from rocks and pebbles that can jam between the impeller and housing causing gouging. Universal impeller kits DO NOT FIT.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


Will the re-jet going to a #85 work and improve my GX160 engine on my HS624?


----------



## sgagnon2020

IndianaRidgeline said:


> Will the re-jet going to a #85 work and improve my GX160 engine on my HS624?


What's your elevation and the current installed jet?


----------



## sgagnon2020

digdex said:


> My elevation is about 100 feet. Can you explain the difference between #82 or #85. Thanks


It's the size of the main jet. The higher the jet size, the more fuel injected. Best bet is to buy both and try the #82 first. I'd even pick up an #80 just to have as well. 
I'm at 350-400ft, running an #82 and the mix is fairly good. You can check your spark plug to see how you are running now. Clean or replace the spark plug to see how the new jet runs after a minute or so at full RPMs. See bellow.

If you're lean with an #82 then go for the #85 and check again.


----------



## IndianaRidgeline

sgagnon2020 said:


> What's your elevation and the current installed jet?


Great and fair question, Thank You. 610 feet. Looking at the Honda OEM parts manual for my HS624 wheeled machine with the GX160 engine, shows it could have a #70, #72, or #75. Does that help answer your question? Value and appreciate your time and input.


----------



## sgagnon2020

IndianaRidgeline said:


> Great and fair question, Thank You. 610 feet. Looking at the Honda OEM parts manual for my HS624 wheeled machine with the GX160 engine, shows it could have a #70, #72, or #75. Does that help answer your question? Value and appreciate your time and input.


TBH I'm not sure about the GX160. The Honda parts literature seem to indicate the same range of stock jet sizes for both the gx160 and gx200 engines. Whether you can go as high as an #80-#85 on a gx160 I can't tell you. 

If someone else would like to chime in on this, please do. I have an HS621 I'm rebuilding next summer so I'd be looking for the same information as well when the time comes.


----------



## IndianaRidgeline

sgagnon2020 said:


> TBH I'm not sure about the GX160. The Honda parts literature seem to indicate the same range of stock jet sizes for both the gx160 and gx200 engines. Whether you can go as high as an #80-#85 on a gx160 I can't tell you.
> 
> If someone else would like to chime in on this, please do. I have an HS621 I'm rebuilding next summer so I'd be looking for the same information as well when the time comes.


Thank you Sgagnon2020. Interesting, understand. Here is neat article to "hop up" the GX engine, GX160 and 200 Performance Upgrades. As you look forward to hearing from others.


----------



## sgagnon2020

IndianaRidgeline said:


> Thank you Sgagnon2020. Interesting, understand. Here is neat article to "hop up" the GX engine, GX160 and 200 Performance Upgrades. As you look forward to hearing from others.


I'm not sure I would do much of those tweaks on a snowblower engine. Running such high RPMs for long periods will destroy the crankshaft components. Here's an example.


----------



## digdex

sgagnon2020 said:


> It's the size of the main jet. The higher the jet size, the more fuel injected. Best bet is to buy both and try the #82 first. I'd even pick up an #80 just to have as well.
> I'm at 350-400ft, running an #82 and the mix is fairly good. You can check your spark plug to see how you are running now. Clean or replace the spark plug to see how the new jet runs after a minute or so at full RPMs. See bellow.
> 
> If you're lean with an #82 then go for the #85 and check again.
> 
> The Link that you gave me for the 82 and 85 don't show that it is for a hs724, is it still the right one to get. Thanks
> 
> View attachment 174740


----------



## digdex

So this morning after a night of rain I tried the machine again but lifted the scraper bar some off the ground so I was not getting the base layer of slush and it worked ok. I think the more snow the better, yesterday when I tried it there was only 1-2 inches of mostly slush and it was a no go. I had to shovel. Just raising it some was much better.


----------



## sgagnon2020

Yes. they are the same part number I purchased from my local Honda dealer.


----------



## sgagnon2020

digdex said:


> So this morning after a night of rain I tried the machine again but lifted the scraper bar some of the ground so I was getting the base layer of slush and it worked ok. I think the more snow the better, yesterday when I tried it there was only 1-2 inches of mostly slush and it was a no go. I had to shovel. Just raising it some was much better.


I wouldn't have even taken the dual stage out for that.


----------



## IndianaRidgeline

sgagnon2020 said:


> I'm not sure I would do much of those tweaks on a snowblower engine. Running such high RPMs for long periods will destroy the crankshaft components. Here's an example.


Interesting. Good point. Yep that would sure take ALL the fun out of it for sure. First thing I thought after reading the Performance Mods was, heck I'd end up shearing off every pin and bolt in the auger/blower bucket. Additionally, who knows what other bearing wear/damage would be accelerated.


----------



## digdex

sgagnon2020 said:


> I wouldn't have even taken the dual stage out for that.


I have a very long uphill driveway and with the weight of the snow it was always worth it with my older machines. I like the track drive but yesterday it was slipping trying to get up the hill.


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## malba2366

Rejetted HSS928 with new chute handled 15 inches of snow with only one auger spinning. I did't even realize this until I was almost done and my wife told me only one auger was spinning.


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## Aviator

IndianaRidgeline said:


> Interesting. Good point. Yep that would sure take ALL the fun out of it for sure. First thing I thought after reading the Performance Mods was, heck I'd end up shearing off every pin and bolt in the auger/blower bucket. Additionally, who knows what other bearing wear/damage would be accelerated.





sgagnon2020 said:


> I'm not sure I would do much of those tweaks on a snowblower engine. Running such high RPMs for long periods will destroy the crankshaft components. Here's an example.





sgagnon2020 said:


> I'm not sure I would do much of those tweaks on a snowblower engine. Running such high RPMs for long periods will destroy the crankshaft components. Here's an example.


The hop up article here is for RACING kart motors that get torn down and rebuilt in the off season. I used to build and race 4 cycle karts, and you treat those engines much differently than you do a snowblower motor. In a race kart you want peak hp. In a snowblower you want peak torque and RELIABILITY. Very different place on the RPM curve. Items like indexing you spark plug and setting your working RPM at the top of the FACTORY RECOMMENDED range are good ideas, as is high quality synthetic oil AFTER BREAK IN. Rejetting on California restricted motors on all new Hondas will get you more hp and torque. I would advise against disabling the governor to run at 50% higher RPM that stock unless you do off season rebuilds. the same is true for cutting fins off the flywheel. Getting your flywheel out go balance and running 5200 rpm is a recipe for rapid wear and early failure. Milling your head for more compression will require different gasoline. changing the timing by trimming your flywheel key can get you a sheared key of you make it too thin. Unless you own a racing snowblower, avoid racing-only mods.


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## Sparkland

Good size snow storm here in Denver and my 3 year old HSS724ATD was not terrible, but it would not make it through any more than 8" of snow. I am at 5,000 and have not done any of the aforementioned modifications to either the chute or the carb jets. It seems like the unit/engine was bogging down too much in snow of more than 8". Hopefully, I can get this Honda ready for the next big storm in 2022.

What is the part number for the new and improved chute design? I am just going to order it and install it myself. I previously ordered the new "jet," but never got around to installing it, so that is on me.


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## RIT333

I thought Honda was providing those chutes gratis.


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## Sparkland

RIT333 said:


> I thought Honda was providing those chutes gratis.


On a machine out of warranty? Mine is 6 years old.


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## Breckcapt

RIT333 said:


> I thought Honda was providing those chutes gratis.
> [/QU


Fwiw: my recently purchased 1332 has the new chute factory installed but that may not be much consolation for you. I’m up in Breck and this recent snow that both of us were hit with had that springtime high water moisture content to it. (I was wondering if the big plows at DIA had to hit it quickly before it froze) Yesterday they brought out the big equipment and really widened the covered streets and layed down a three feet high wall of “cement” at the `end of our sidewalks and private roads that I didn’t even try to use the snowblower. I caught it before the overnight freeze. Shovel time, and it was tough for an old dude like me. It was full of ice and I didn’t want to take a chance of shearing the carriage bolt head. Nasty stuff. The true test comes between now and May 1st. I’m hoping the 1332 plows through that crap. Remember: I supposedly have a GX390. This year, my first, I purchased mid-winter and still on the the learning curve but this forum is sure a font of knowledge. ( I may be taxing the patience of the old hands with innocuous questions) This year may not provide an answer to you but I would write a letter to Honda and be patient. I feel your pain. You’re probably finished with the big stuff but it seems like every year I can depend on a big hit May 12-13. Good luck buddy.


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## drmerdp

Breckcapt said:


> Fwiw: my recently purchased 1332 has the new chute factory installed but that may not be much consolation for you. I’m up in Breck and this recent snow that both of us were hit with had that springtime high water moisture content to it. (I was wondering if the big plows at DIA had to hit it quickly before it froze) Yesterday they brought out the big equipment and really widened the covered streets and layed down a three feet high wall of “cement” at the `end of our sidewalks and private roads that I didn’t even try to use the snowblower. I caught it before the overnight freeze. Shovel time, and it was tough for an old dude like me. It was full of ice and I didn’t want to take a chance of shearing the carriage bolt head. Nasty stuff. The true test comes between now and May 1st. I’m hoping the 1332 plows through that crap. Remember: I supposedly have a GX390. This year, my first, I purchased mid-winter and still on the the learning curve but this forum is sure a font of knowledge. ( I may be taxing the patience of the old hands with innocuous questions) This year may not provide an answer to you but I would write a letter to Honda and be patient. I feel your pain. You’re probably finished with the big stuff but it seems like every year I can depend on a big hit May 12-13. Good luck buddy.


Youre working to hard buddy. I chew through month old plow piles with mine. just go slow and let it cut its way through the ice.


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## Breckcapt

drmerdp said:


> Youre working to hard buddy. I chew through month old plow piles with mine. just go slow and let it cut its way through the ice.


Yeah, I’ve gotta try it....old habits are hard to break. I’m too careful with my new Honda I suppose. Problem is, we had big 12”x12”x2” chunks of ice mixed in. Would you still chew through it? Lol ✌🏼
I’ll just have a pocket full of shear pins with me....ha!


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## drmerdp

Oh yeah, I’d chew through that too.


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## RC20

I have the latest machine (HS724ATD) with the chute mod.

Not so sure on what it will take, I took out a 2nd stage shear boot on some heavy stuff.

Equally odd was I sheared one of the first stage (yea I ran into something I should.d not have) but did not notice it for a bit. I have to get some shear bolts, down to a couple as I have had a (ahem) couple unfortunate yard encounters I pushed to far or did not realize it was there. 

When I went to fix the chute was total plug and I though I I was going to need an auger to get it out. The tool was almost useless (have to see about something with some heft, my brother has a lathes so............

We had a good 15 inch snow fall and the HSS724 handled that with no issues, side pack stuff along the road via grader was harder but slowed down enough and it did it (I was used to the Yamaha that would do that stuff in speed 2)

Flip to that is the Yamaha would never dig into the bank as deep so I am maintaining a good street width so I can park the pickup out there while I do the driveway. My neighbor across the way keeps his side peeled back and I am doing that as well as he can't get it as good as I can and the Honda does it nicely if slowly. What we need is an 824!


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## Sparkland

I break a sheer pin nearly every time I use the snowblower, as my neighbor is neglectful about keeping his landscaping rocks (3/4") where they belong and not on the sidewalk. 

My 724 did a good job this year, except for the icy stuff during that most recent storm.


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## RC20

_( I may be taxing the patience of the old hands with innocuous questions) _

There are no innocuous questions, we may have to break out the Guillotine ! Yea some of us are tolerant, others not so much. Ask away, you may get a bit of fun poked at you.


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## salvie984

My Honda HSS724 is not under warranty so Honda said I would have to pay for the chute upgrade out of pocket. Could I get the upgraded chute part# for my Honda HSS724 so I could order it and do it myself.

Thanks,
Mike


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## tabora

salvie984 said:


> Could I get the upgraded chute part# for my Honda HSS724 so I could order it and do it myself.


76310-V45-A01ZA





Honda Power Equipment 76310-V45-A01ZA - CHUTE *R280* (POWER RED) : PartsPitstop.com







www.partspitstop.com






https://www.boats.net/product/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA


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## orangputeh

salvie984 said:


> My Honda HSS724 is not under warranty so Honda said I would have to pay for the chute upgrade out of pocket. Could I get the upgraded chute part# for my Honda HSS724 so I could order it and do it myself.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike


or you could modify your old chute....


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## salvie984

tabora said:


> 76310-V45-A01ZA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honda Power Equipment 76310-V45-A01ZA - CHUTE *R280* (POWER RED) : PartsPitstop.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.partspitstop.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.boats.net/product/honda/76310-V45-A01ZA


Isn't that the old chute part #?
Mike


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## tabora

salvie984 said:


> Isn't that the old chute part #?


Nope. The original part was 76310-V45-A00ZA.


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## Breckcapt

You really can’t go wrong if you listen to Tabora and Orangputeh on just about anything related to items on this board so you could probably relax on your fix. Indeed, out in the Rockies the weather is indeed changing…..


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## NHbem

Recently had 3 to 4 inches of wet slushy snow in Southern NH. I have HS 928(2011 vintage) and a HSS 1332ATD(2016 vintage). I had zero chute clogging issues with the HS928 while I had major clogging issues with the 1332. I’ve seen this before but yesterday’s storm finally convinced me to consider modifying the 1332. I think I’m ready to try purchasing and installing the redesigned chute part 76310-V45-C31ZA. Is this replacement chute easy to install? Also how long does it take?


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## maxcbrdriver

I retrofitted an HSS724 with the double articulating chute from the HSS1332 and did so with the updated chute. Process was straightforward, everything bolts together easily. I used the opportunity to clean and grease all accessible locations. Whole process took me about 2 hours, which is longer than you'll need because I had to replace a cable too that you won't have to and generally just work slow. You should be able to remove the articulating portion as one piece after you disconnect spring and cable, replace main chute, and then reconnect articulating portion. Done.


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## NHbem

Thanks for your suggestions maxcbrdriver. Looks like it should be a pretty straightforward switch.


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## NHbem

NHbem said:


> Thanks for your suggestions maxcbrdriver. Looks like it should be a pretty straightforward switch.


I received the new modified chute from my local Honda shop today. Price was about $50. Once getting home I proceeded to do the install. The removal of the old chute on my HSS1332ATD was pretty straightforward with no issues. However, while installing the new chute I ran into issues associated with getting the 3 bottom bolts into the base. The hole alignment on the new chute appeared to be less than perfect and I struggled to get all three bolts into the base. It seemed like 2 of the 3 holes would line up properly but there was an issue with the 3rd bolt. It was difficult to do but I finally succeeded. I completed re installing the remaining parts with no problems. Machine was started and all functions worked fine with no binding issues. The only thing I did notice is that there is a small gap at the base where the chute is connected. Check out the photo. Has anyone else run into this issue when they self installed the new modified chute? Also, is this gap something I need to be concerned about?


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## maxcbrdriver

I don't think you'll have an issue with the small gap. That being said, did you make sure those 3 chute bolts were fully seated? I believe the head has a square shape that needs to be fully seated. 

Since you're working on the machine, I would grease the chute bearing and the chute teeth.


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## NHbem

maxcbrdriver said:


> I don't think you'll have an issue with the small gap. That being said, did you make sure those 3 chute bolts were fully seated? I believe the head has a square shape that needs to be fully seated.
> 
> Since you're working on the machine, I would grease the chute bearing and the chute teeth.


Yes, all 3 chute bolts are fully seated. Square bolt heads are properly located. I plan to grease chute bearing and teeth.


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## Dragonz23

Hello everyone my honda hs720 is backfiring any idea what it is pls help me out thank you pls check my video 











backfiring timing is off sticky valve honda HS720 snow blower


pls like and subscribe for more video thank you 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏




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## Yanmar Ronin

Dragonz23 said:


> Hello everyone my honda hs720 is backfiring any idea what it is pls help me out thank you pls check my video


Welcome to SBF... as this is regarding a different problem please start a new thread in the Honda Forum HERE. Thanks.


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## vmax29

I guess this is on topic. Instead of chute clogging my best guess is you have a clogged pilot jet. That’s usually what causes that type of surging. Good news is there are lots of helpful videos on YouTube to fix that.


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## Yanmar Ronin

vmax29 said:


> I guess this is on topic. Instead of chute clogging my best guess is you have a clogged pilot jet. That’s usually what causes that type of surging. Good news is there are lots of helpful videos on YouTube to fix that.


This is the Robert/Honda thread concerning chute clogging only.

It is also very old.

And now closed... Robert is long gone too, I think he retired.

🍻


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