# Toro 1132 Tune up



## johnbuzzz (Feb 11, 2015)

Snowblower new to me two years ago...

The auger was always engaged regardless of whether I had the handle pulled or not. I figured the previous owner just had the wrong size belt on.

When changing the belts this summer (because I was too lazy LAST summer) I noticed A LOT of play on the auger pulley.

So I changed the impeller bearing...See picture...

Took apart the auger gearbox and used a liquid gasket because it was leaking a bit when I put gear oil in. Everything looked brand new in there.

Got the auger housing welded in two quarter spots where it was starting to crack by the bottom mount on both sides. 

Finally I did the impeller modification with some 3/8 inch rubber.

My snowblower is a 1990 model 38580. I was wondering if I have it long enough to replace the impeller bearing again for the impeller, would this be a better replacement?

SBPF205-14 Pressed Steel Housing Bearing 3-Bolt Flanged Mounted


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* if it is a POWERSHIFT that is the bearing you use. if everthing lines up right in there you should get 10 years out of it. PM me if you have any other questions.*


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## johnbuzzz (Feb 11, 2015)

Thanks for the reply.
I have another question. What is the black wire hanging in the picture for?


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

headlight connection


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Yup, it's the lead to power the headlight. How about a few photos of your machine ??

Do you have a manual or the link to the Toro site ?? https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=3163


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## johnbuzzz (Feb 11, 2015)

Thanks for the link! I had the Operator manual but not the others. 
Here's a picture of the beast. All ready for some snow.
Also some pictures of the impeller mod.


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## johnbuzzz (Feb 11, 2015)

So I read the thread on adding LED lights. I didn't see anything for my machine specifically.
What would I need to do to add them to my 1132 powershift?


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## johnbuzzz (Feb 11, 2015)

I read up a bit. So looks like I'd need to install an alternator. Is this a pretty straightforward add?


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

johnbuzzz said:


> I read up a bit. So looks like I'd need to install an alternator. Is this a pretty straightforward add?


You're one of the lucky ones. This one is headlight ready. That wire you have would be attached to an alternator.
Edit to be more clear. You already have an alternator installed.


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## johnbuzzz (Feb 11, 2015)

After thinking about it, that was what I was hoping.
Although when I read the manual, it stated that Toro typically does not install alternators on non-headlight machines so I wasn't sure.
My machine is serial 0000552 so maybe on the early ones they did it?
Thanks again for the replies.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

johnbuzzz said:


> After thinking about it, that was what I was hoping.
> Although when I read the manual, it stated that Toro typically does not install alternators on non-headlight machines so I wasn't sure.
> My machine is serial 0000552 so maybe on the early ones they did it?
> Thanks again for the replies.


*there is a stator under the flywheel. the headlight was an option in those years. as far as I know you can still buy them.*


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

You'll want to know if there's a diode (rectifier) being used with that stator (_it doesn't look like you have one at the connector._) I upgraded my early-70's briggs with a flywheel/stator and had to remove the single diode which was right at the connector.

Start your motor, take your voltmeter and set it to the DC voltage...put the black probe on the exposed engine block & the red probe in that connector. If you measure anything other than zero volts, you likely have a single diode serving as a half-wave rectifier.

If you have your heart set on an LED, you should scrap that single diode and go with a full-wave bridge rectifier with a large smoothing capacitor. this topic is EXTREMELY well covered here (_according to earlier replies, you're already familiar with this_): Upgrading your snowblower lights to LED lights by superedge88.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Yup, you'd need to add a rectifier to the circuit to change the AC to DC for most LEDs out there. I have see a few LED headlights that supposedly have a rectifier built in so they would be all you'd need but they were pretty expensive.
That link to the LED thread is a really good thread. It's the first few pages that have most of the info and the other couple hundred pages are just everyone asking questions or posting their own experiences.

You can also just go to an auto parts store and get an 18 watt incandescent to mount and use now as is and have light while you research, find parts, assemble and install your LED. There are pre made rectifiers on Ebay and other sites too.


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## johnbuzzz (Feb 11, 2015)

I measured 11.8 AC volts. Per the manual I have 5 amps. 
I got two cree 10 w LED floods that draw 0.86 amps each.
I got the capacitor and rectifier off Amazon. 
The $2 capacitor and fuse holder are coming from China...Ughh. 
I'm too stubborn to just go buy them at the store.
I'll post pics when they finally get here. Hopefully before it snows!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

johnbuzzz said:


> I measured 11.8 AC volts. Per the manual I have 5 amps.
> I got two cree 10 w LED floods that draw 0.86 amps each.
> I got the capacitor and rectifier off Amazon.
> The $2 capacitor and fuse holder are coming from China...Ughh.
> ...


When you set the voltmeter to DC, do you get 0V?


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## johnbuzzz (Feb 11, 2015)

I do get 0V measuring with DC.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

johnbuzzz said:


> I do get 0V measuring with DC.


That's good news! You have pure AC; no pesky diode in the stator output.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*YEAH but there is no voltage regulator on those engines. so the light will dim out and light back up going through the power bands.mg::emoticon-south-park*


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