# best way to break in new engine



## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

Title says it all, what is the best way to run a new HONDA engine in a way to maximize the piston ring seal etc... full throttle all the time or alternate between full and Alf.... work for ten min full gas then rest for 20 min to cool down .... what is your point of view on this


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## russkat (Feb 25, 2015)

I thought Honda's were run in before leaving the factory ?
I'm not a Honda expert, but I thought I've read that in another thread.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

run it full bore wide open under load for the first 5 hours.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Dealer told me to run as if it was broken in. Change oil after 5 hours. Use 5W30 dino oil for the first year/season, then change to synthetic if I want to (which I want to).

I've got 2.5 hours in on an HSS1332ATD and I've basically run it at different RPMs and only used it once on a 6" snowfall, but cleared about 600' of driveway and car spots, just went medium-to-high on the throttle and speed. Intermittent running at idle/med/high RPMs.

I have a 24 year old Honda HS828TAS (track) I bought new, broke it in the same way as above (except I've only used dino oil), and I've had incredible longevity and reliablity.

I think I'll do the first oil change with Honda OEM oil, then go to full synthetic at the end of the season. I do run my blower every couple of weeks throughout the warm non-snow season and it has lasted this long and always starts first pull and doesn't burn any oil.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> run it full bore wide open under load for the first 5 hours.


Sorry POWERSHIFT, typed before your post. I do just disagree with your version though. You can take a chance with your style, but I'm not willing to do that. Seat them thar rings in a good and decent way pilgrim :smiley-confused009:


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

I've got a brand new engine/snowblower....

Aside from a proper warm up, initial 20-45 minute run time/oil dump, and then varying loads at WOT for the next 5 hrs until the next oil change, I do plan to run it WOT.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

mobiledynamics said:


> I've got a brand new engine/snowblower....
> 
> Aside from a proper warm up, initial 20-45 minute run time/oil dump, and then varying loads at WOT for the next 5 hrs until the next oil change, I do plan to run it WOT.


I like that idea...sounds like a plan...that could keep 'er going for a long time.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

jrom said:


> Sorry POWERSHIFT, typed before your post. I do just disagree with your version though. You can take a chance with your style, but I'm not willing to do that. Seat them thar rings in a good and decent way pilgrim :smiley-confused009:


I have done that to every engine. never ever had 1 problem.k:k:k:k::tongue4:


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## Bob_S (Oct 20, 2015)

The manual states "First month or 20 Hrs." I assume there is no oil filer as there is no mention of one.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> I have done that to every engine. never ever had 1 problem.k:k:k:k::tongue4:


Ever a Honda GX engine?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

jrom said:


> Ever a Honda GX engine?


 yep!!!!! used to work at a rental outfit. back in college. those engines were on everything.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Bob_S said:


> The manual states "First month or 20 Hrs." I assume there is no oil filer as there is no mention of one.


The manual does state that, and no filter.

I've gotten so many miles out of my machines that I've changed the oil more frequently during break-in (small engine and auto/truck), I can't let a savings of $20-$30 get in the way of potentially increasing the longevity of an engine.

You've basically got one shot at break-in...why take a chance? My HS828 has served me faithfully for 24 years without burning any oil...$20-$30 extra...and your time


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> yep!!!!! used to work at a rental outfit. back in college. those engines were on everything.


That's cool! Just proves the solid Honda GX technology. Still won't take a chance on my machines.

...but wait...how many rental engines go the_long_distance...like over 20 years?  I doubt many.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

jrom said:


> That's cool! Just proves the solid Honda GX technology. Still won't take a chance on my machines.
> 
> ...but wait...how many rental engines go the_long_distance...like over 20 years?  I doubt many.


Don't know the place folded up.:dizzy::dizzy::dizzy::dizzy::dizzy:


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## Loco-diablo (Feb 12, 2015)

It's a Honda for crying out loud! Longevity is inherent! Those are all pre run at the factory. I don't think any additional 'break in' steps are necessary. Just change the oil regularly, use good fuel, and store it properly, and it should give you many years of service. Don't over think it. [email protected] could perhaps pipe in here and give his recommendation.


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## Loco-diablo (Feb 12, 2015)

jrom said:


> I bet a lot of non-Honda owners would like to see the Honda GX owners go balls-out crazy during break-in...just to see if they do start to break down later in their life. Why not...There are quite a few Honda haters here.


Ah.. Yes.. People here give bad advice to see if it affects other people's machines down the road. Really? You're kidding, right? I think that's a pretty paranoid claim.

I don't think so. Wow.. BTW.. 'Quite a few Honda haters here' ??? I've never noticed haters of any particular brand here.


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## bosco659 (Feb 1, 2013)

Whether you run varied speeds or WOT, the most important thing in breaking in a new engine is frequent oil changes. I agree using find oil at first then use whatever you want thereafter. Oil is cheap and if you have an oil extractor (vacuum oil removal tank), changing the oil only takes a few minutes and costs a few dollars. Especially important in engines that use bronze bushings instead of full bearings.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

jrom said:


> I bet a lot of non-Honda owners would like to see the Honda GX owners go balls-out crazy during break-in...just to see if they do start to break down later in their life. Why not...There are quite a few Honda haters here.


I like Honda engines and it's automobiles are very nice too. I just think that their snowblowers are bit overpriced compared to Ariens or Toro. Honda snow blowers are very nice and run great and throw snow 50 feet and yes they are over priced too.

Arien Snotek models are decent quality and priced very nice. I can't justify spending $2000+ on snow removal equipment that sits 8 or 9 months out of the year not being used. Heck I repowered my MTD and it works great now with a Harbor Freight Predator 212cc for only $180. 

I say use a good quaility Synthetic oil like Amsoil or Mobile 1 from day one and you will be fine. Honda pre runs it's engine at the factory for quaility control. So this whole only use dino oil for breaking in an engine a myth.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

I hate oil extractors.....I still have a smaller 6 qt...sold the latter.
IMO, I would rather drain via a form-a-funnel / small pan for OPE and or via the bolt on the cars...

The extractors after use, still need to pour the oil out into a ~oil container bottle~. Then you need to wipe the dipstick clean, and then I generally put it into a large plastic bag, as the extractor tube is never really ~clean~ even after wiping it down.

It's faster IMO to do ~old school~ oil changes - at least for me.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Loco-diablo said:


> Ah.. Yes.. People here give bad advice to see if it affects other people's machines down the road. Really? You're kidding, right? I think that's a pretty paranoid claim.
> 
> I don't think so. Wow.. BTW.. 'Quite a few Honda haters here' ??? I've never noticed haters of any particular brand here.


I know that sounds paranoid. Didn't really mean to go that far. Just have seen more than a few super critical posts of Hondas, some have been deleted. And the more I think about it, there's been more critical posts of Honda blowers at the abbys guide forum then here.

For the sake of forum harmony, I may delete that post.*

*A lot of good that did :redface: As long as it's quoted, it's still here.


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## nZone (Feb 19, 2015)

We know we have spent over $2500 for a snowblower, and we want to take excellent care of it, but we are over thinking it. Does it state in the manual that we need to run it slow for certain number of hours to slowly break in the motor? The same goes with oil. You do what is best for yourself. The oil thing is pretty much a myth. For me, I'll drain the oil from my newly HSS724AT and fill in with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum; and I will run it full power when blowing snow. 

I'm sure everyone here has a lawnmower or power washer. Do you run it slow to break in the motor? Of course not.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> run it full bore wide open under load for the first 5 hours.


That's the way to do it. Conventional oil for the first 5 - 8 hours. You can change your oil every hour in that period if it makes you feel better. But that first few hours are the most critical. The higher the load the better. It's all about sealing the rings to the cylinder wall. 

Varying loads, babying it for a while, and cool down cycles are all old myths.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

I have a question for those who believe that the higher the load the better for break-in — which I am open to, especially after knowing that manufacturing/honing/casting, etc. has gotten better over the years.

If you are in the first 5-8 hour period, and you don't have snow to put the engine under full load, is it better to wait until the snow comes, or is running at full throttle and moving the blower up and down the driveway good enough?

Part of me wants to get the break-in period over and part of me wants to wait until good snow comes to put it under load and full throttle.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

jrom said:


> I have a question for those who believe that the higher the load the better for break-in — which I am open to, especially after knowing that manufacturing/honing/casting, etc. has gotten better over the years.
> 
> If you are in the first 5-8 hour period, and you don't have snow to put the engine under full load, is it better to wait until the snow comes, or is running at full throttle and moving the blower up and down the driveway good enough?


it is best under load. but you can that way also. just as long as it is full bore/ wide open.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> it is best under load. but you can that way also. just as long as it is full bore/ wide open.


I think I'm going to wait for snow. The main reason I wanted to break it in now is I've been gone for up to two weeks at a time and based on my old way of break-in theory (first time I broke a new engine in was on a mini bike 44 years ago) I didn't think my wife would do it my way :redface:

With this new information (to me) I guess I would be alright as my wife would probably blast right through the snow full tilt (as she has been known to do)


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Found an interesting break-in article here (from a bob is the oil guy forum post): Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

It basically backs up what all you guys say about full throttle, full load. He does say this is for all 4 stroke engines.


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## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

Just got my hss1332 yesterday and did ask to the guy at HONDA about when i should change the oil (breaking oil ). Breaking oil ??? No such thing. Change it this spring or next fall.


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## nZone (Feb 19, 2015)

grabber said:


> Just got my hss1332 yesterday and did ask to the guy at HONDA about when i should change the oil (breaking oil ). Breaking oil ??? No such thing. Change it this spring or next fall.


Infamous quote from Jim Mora:

"What’s that? Ah — Breaking Oil_?_ Don’t talk about — Breaking Oil_?_ You kidding me? Breaking Oil_?"_


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

grabber said:


> Just got my hss1332 yesterday and did ask to the guy at HONDA about when i should change the oil (breaking oil ). Breaking oil ??? No such thing. Change it this spring or next fall.


You know there might be a lot of truth from what the dealer asserted, today's engines are built to so much tighter tolerances with better materials and with cast iron sleeves they are built to last and of course it always depends on the maintenance, so with the economic pressures to build a quality machine that will last I say, no one is the wiser.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

nZone said:


> grabber said:
> 
> 
> > Just got my hss1332 yesterday and did ask to the guy at HONDA about when i should change the oil (breaking oil ). Breaking oil ??? No such thing. Change it this spring or next fall.
> ...


Hah, love it. Playoffs?! Don't talk about playoffs!!


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## AMSOIL (Dec 23, 2011)

Follow the OEM rec's for the break-in "Time". The engine will still get to the operating temperature no matter what oil you use. You do not have to use a "break in" Oil just a standard oil meeting the OEM Specifications.


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## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

after 5 hrs of usage, i did change the oil and after inspection, like some members here said, there was a tinny film of metal shaving mixted with it. I think that i did the right thing changing it a 5hrs and not at 20hrs. Now i do check the oil before each startup (just as curiosity) and it is as clear as it was new... with 4 additionnal hours on the clock with new oil.
I did replace with Mobil 1 5W30 Synthetics. 

Something that we should keep in mind also, is to let the engine warm up ennough before starting to work with it... i do take care of this, specially that these engines are used during winter time... it wont damage if you let it warm up 2 minutes on idle, the first start up of the day... oil will flow better after that.

I love my Honda.


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## AMSOIL (Dec 23, 2011)

A point to keep in mind is that the OEM gives you the parameters to change the oil. So whether it is 5 or 20 hours you will still be in compliance with their directive. There will be metal residue inside the engine(due to manufacturing) but if the OEM had a "Critical" concern about this he would have 1) Attached an above average oil filter to the motor for the "break-in" or 2) Made sure the engine was completely flushed out during the build stage at the factory prior to delivery. You will still find "particles" after your second oil change and very minor traces as well after your third. I would do another oil change at 20 Hours and then 50 Hours or at the end of the season whichever occurs first. Good on you for letting your equipment warm up prior to use since that will extend the life of any piece of equipment


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## SND (Nov 5, 2015)

I just let it warm up a couple minutes(its kept inside a heater garage anyhow) then full power and away we go. 
Did the oil change after about 6-7hrs use, it had the normal amount of small fines and I think it was a good time to do it. I'll do another change in another 10hrs out so and see how it looks. For only about 1ltr its cheap, I just use dino oil, GTX 5W30.


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