# Impeller Rubber Extensions



## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

You see a lot of these You-Tube DIYERS adding impeller rubber extensions to their snow throwers impellers ends to improve thrower range and to stop clogging on heavy wet snow...The question is, why don't the OEM manufactures add these or something similar to their machines since they appear to work or help???


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Its all about $$$$.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

one more thing to warranty probably. some machines don't have much of a gap between blower fan and housing so flaps will not make much difference.

If i can get my little finger or close in that gap , the machine gets flaps.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

nwcove said:


> Its all about $$$$.


Except companies like Ariens spend plenty of money building larger impellers to brag about distance etc. The cost to add rubber to the blades is minimal. Probably about $10 per machine from what I looked at.

If the blades are already drilled and tapped during manufacturing it would be easy.

I've wondered many times why no one does.


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

SNOWJOE said:


> The question is, why don't the OEM manufactures add these or something similar to their machines since they appear to work or help???


They do tend to freeze to the housing after usage more than stock impellers. That can lead to damage.


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

nwcove said:


> Its all about $$$$.


Yup. It's about the money. If those flappy dilly things and the metal plates and nuts and bolts let go and get flung by a high powered engine with high speed impeller, a whole world of hurt is going to happen.

When there's an injury, the lawyers will come for money. It rhymes!

Modify at your own discretion.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

aa335 said:


> Yup. It's about the money. If those flappy dilly things and the metal plates and nuts and bolts let go and get flung by a high powered engine with high speed impeller, a whole world of hurt is going to happen.
> 
> When there's an injury, the lawyers will come for money. It rhymes!
> 
> Modify at your own discretion.


Not much different than stones etc getting into it which happens. That's why we never aim at people, windows etc.

I take it you don't use the modification?


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

ChrisJ said:


> Not much different than stones etc getting into it which happens. That's why we never aim at people, windows etc.
> 
> I take it you don't use the modification?


I don't do the mod.

There's a huge difference. Manufacturers didn't install the stones.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

aa335 said:


> I don't do the mod.
> 
> There's a huge difference. Manufacturers didn't install the stones.


This is true.


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

Why do folks need to add devices to a factory manufactured machine to chuck snow further than it was designed to do? Is there a reason? Doing so adds stress to the impeller bearing which may or may not impact its life. It depends on many unknown design factors. I have never found a situation using snowblowers that worried me about the distance snow was thrown as long as it was out of the area I was clearing..


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Yes, $$$ and manufacturing tolerances. Not sure, but it may also have to do with survivability of the impeller/housing when foreign objects are ingested. Also if the rubber 'paddles' were part of the steel impeller, they may become a wear item for the manufacturers and service centers to address.

Certainly the higher end machine companies can afford to make their impellers with a tighter fit . . . Toro certainly did on its 1980 vintage models. Closer tolerances of blade to housing will remedy the need for impeller paddle 'mods' that many folks do.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

foggysail said:


> Why do folks need to add devices to a factory manufactured machine it to chuck snow further than it was designed to do? Is there a reason? Doing so adds stress to the impeller bearing which may or may not impact its life. It depends on many unknown design factors. I have never found a situation using snowblowers that worried me about the distance snow was thrown as long as it was out of the area I was clearing..


Well,

In my case I can never throw wet snow or slush near far enough so I'm looking at several things to fix the issue including this modification. It often ends up where I need to blow it 2-3 times to try and work it out of the area.

It does great in nice fluffy snow that a plow didn't mix with salt and pack first. But I don't even really need it for that either.


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

tpenfield said:


> Yes, $$$ and manufacturing tolerances. Not sure, but it may also have to do with survivability of the impeller/housing when foreign objects are ingested. Also if the rubber 'paddles' were part of the steel impeller, they may become a wear item for the manufacturers and service centers to address.
> 
> Certainly the higher end machine companies can afford to make their impellers with a tighter fit . . . Toro certainly did on its 1980 vintage models. Closer tolerances of blade to housing will remedy the need for impeller paddle 'mods' that many folks do.


They can also provide impellers with larger diameters but they don't


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

If snow / ice build up in the housing, doesn't that close the gap on its own?


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

foggysail said:


> Why do folks need to add devices to a factory manufactured machine to chuck snow further than it was designed to do? Is there a reason? Doing so adds stress to the impeller bearing which may or may not impact its life. It depends on many unknown design factors. I have never found a situation using snowblowers that worried me about the distance snow was thrown as long as it was out of the area I was clearing..


As mentioned, it is mostly to improve the throwing distance in wet/slushy conditions. My Troy-Bilt (i.e. MTD) was horrible at throwing wet snow when I first got it. Dry snow was fine, but sloppy stuff . . . forgetaboutit.

The impeller mod dramatically improved the machine's viability in wet conditions. 

So, there is a true need on many machines. Improving the dry snow throwing distance is more a matter of 'fun', but it can matter over time during the winter, if you get lots of snow. If your machine can only throw snow just clear of your driveway and walkways, the depth of snow around these areas will accumulate. With lots of snow, those piles of snow can become problematic. The further you can throw the snow the more dispersed the accumulation of snow is.

As for the impellers on these machines, they can take the extra load and them some. The greater concern would be the belts would probably wear faster.


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## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

Probably a combination of cost, minor, and potential damage to either users and or machine..Or they haven't yet come up with a better idea, yet...


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> If snow / ice build up in the housing, doesn't that close the gap on its own?


I struggled with that concept myself. Someone here got me to accept that the reason the stream of output snow is slowed by impeller/housing gap is a follows: The snow being ejected at impeller tip speed is constantly being mixed with a "leakage stream" of zero speed snow that generally adheres to the impeller drum but is constantly shedding into the chute opening. It makes sense that the larger the drum gap then the larger the amount of slow speed snow entering the discharge stream.


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

cpchriste said:


> I struggled with that concept myself. Someone here got me to accept that the reason the stream of output snow is slowed by impeller/housing gap is a follows: The snow being ejected at impeller tip speed is constantly being mixed with a "leakage stream" of zero speed snow that generally adheres to the impeller drum but is constantly shedding into the chute opening. It makes sense that the larger the drum gap then the larger the amount of slow speed snow entering the discharge stream.


You mean friction?

Or this?

Boundary Layer


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

foggysail said:


> Why do folks need to add devices to a factory manufactured machine to chuck snow further than it was designed to do?


In my case the chute clogged far too easily. It only threw the _perfect _snow. It has not clogged since. It is fun to see the snow going flying and I do need the distance as I have a good deal of no-mans land to clear.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i have a little noma machine that i would have parted out or scrapped if it had not been for the impeller mod. it only threw snow 6-8ft which wont even get the snow off the driveway without moving the snow 2-3 times to get it completely off the driveway. with the impeller mod on 2 of the 4 blades it at least throws the snow 14-16ft now. it will also throw slush or whatever you put in front of it without clogging.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Then fact that it eliminates clogging on wet snow is a huge benefit alone. They would not have to provide that plastic chute clearing tool. Not to mention people running to the emergency room with broken fingers or worse.

I had a Simplicity made in the 70's that came stock with rubber wipers. It is not a new idea at all. The Manufacturers obviously have done a cost benefit analysis and do not see it as a benefit. Was it the lawyers or the accountants who had the most influence? I would bet the lawyers.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Then fact that it eliminates clogging on wet snow is a huge benefit alone. They would not have to provide that plastic chute clearing tool. Not to mention people running to the emergency room with broken fingers or worse.
> 
> I had a Simplicity made in the 70's that came stock with rubber wipers. It is not a new idea at all. The Manufacturers obviously have done a cost benefit analysis and do not see it as a benefit. Was it the lawyers or the accountants who had the most influence? I would bet the lawyers.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Then fact that it eliminates clogging on wet snow is a huge benefit alone. They would not have to provide that plastic chute clearing tool. Not to mention people running to the emergency room with broken fingers or worse.
> 
> I had a Simplicity made in the 70's that came stock with rubber wipers. It is not a new idea at all. The Manufacturers obviously have done a cost benefit analysis and do not see it as a benefit. Was it the lawyers or the accountants who had the most influence? I would bet the lawyers.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

My father had an old 70’s Simplicity that had rubber paddles as impeller blades. It threw wet snow very well, but the impeller was set up opposite our current machines. It had a lower volume capacity of throwing snow because of that. It was just slower than the Airens/. & Toro’s of that vintage. I do remember my dad having to replace the impeller bearings g at least twice. The rubber paddlers were harder on that bearing for some reason. Here’s a pic of one of those machines. They were real long because of the impeller orientation. I think they also sold the same machine with the Allis Chalmers tag. 
66834435-06F1-4BEB-AA75-8B393B66990C.jpeg


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Smokie1 said:


> My father had an old 70’s Simplicity that had rubber paddles as impeller blades. It threw wet snow very well, but the impeller was set up opposite our current machines. It had a lower volume capacity of throwing snow because of that. It was just slower than the Airens/. & Toro’s of that vintage. I do remember my dad having to replace the impeller bearings g at least twice. The rubber paddlers were harder on that bearing for some reason. Here’s a pic of one of those machines. They were real long because of the impeller orientation. I think they also sold the same machine with the Allis Chalmers tag.
> 66834435-06F1-4BEB-AA75-8B393B66990C.jpeg


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Smokie1 said:


> Sorry...here’s a link to a video of one that’s restored, and you can clearly see the rubber impeller paddles. Nest old machine!


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

foggysail said:


> Why do folks need to add devices to a factory manufactured machine to chuck snow further than it was designed to do? Is there a reason? Doing so adds stress to the impeller bearing which may or may not impact its life. It depends on many unknown design factors. I have never found a situation using snowblowers that worried me about the distance snow was thrown as long as it was out of the area I was clearing..


mine were don not for more distance but to deal wet heavy snow, living in the city it is more useful to have a machine that can move a lot of snow but not throw it a country mile


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)




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## Patrick0525 (Dec 24, 2020)

tpenfield said:


> Yes, $$$ and manufacturing tolerances. Not sure, but it may also have to do with survivability of the impeller/housing when foreign objects are ingested. Also if the rubber 'paddles' were part of the steel impeller, they may become a wear item for the manufacturers and service centers to address.
> 
> Certainly the higher end machine companies can afford to make their impellers with a tighter fit . . . Toro certainly did on its 1980 vintage models. Closer tolerances of blade to housing will remedy the need for impeller paddle 'mods' that many folks do.



I have an engineering suggestion from an episode of PBS’ This Old House renovation of a cast iron drain pipe. They liked cast iron longevity but hated its easiness to clog. They liked PVC resistance to clogging but hated the drain noise. Their solution was to line the cast iron pipe with a PVC pipe.

Could we do the same thing for the Ariens 12” impeller housing? If I only knew how to weld.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I have yet to see any meaningful scientific information on snowblower impeller effectiveness, but there is some fluid pump impeller physics information available on the web as a general comparison. But there is more to it than just the slipperiness of the impeller housing.

Basically, the impellers are relying on centripetal force/acceleration, and the lack thereof, to eject the snow from the housing. The snow, not wanting to be 'accelerated' looks for a way out. The chute opening is the most significant 'way out', but the gap between the impeller blade and the housing is also a 'way out', so some snow tends to escape from the impeller blade before it reaches the chute opening. At the blade tip there is a combination of motions of the snow being pushed in a circular fashion by the blade and the snow trying to escape in the gap between the blade and the housing.

Slushy snow is more liquid than dry snow, making it easier to escape in the gap between the impeller blade and the housing, further changes the dynamics of the impeller blade.

The rubber extensions/paddles significantly reduce the gap and accordingly simplify the dynamics of the snow. the slight increase in the true diameter of the rubber extensions also contributes to the velocity of the snow ejection at the chute opening.

It might be a 'fun' project to further study & analyze the physics of snowblower impellers.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Patrick0525 said:


> I have an engineering suggestion from an episode of PBS’ This Old House renovation of a cast iron drain pipe. They liked cast iron longevity but hated its easiness to clog. They liked PVC resistance to clogging but hated the drain noise. Their solution was to line the cast iron pipe with a PVC pipe.
> 
> Could we do the same thing for the Ariens 12” impeller housing? If I only knew how to weld.


It has alot to do with surface finish. A cast iron pipe has a rough ID surface finish while an extuded PVC pipe has a smooth one. The dry coefficient of friction is also much lower on plastic but when you are dealing with wet and icy environments they are much closer to each other. You can read many post here where people will atest to cleaning up the chute rust, painting and waxing so that the wet snow does not stick. If your steel chute is rust free a couple of coats of a good car wax in the warmer weather will go a long way. Just some elbow grease. No welding required.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

foggysail said:


> Why do folks need to add devices to a factory manufactured machine to chuck snow further than it was designed to do? Is there a reason? Doing so adds stress to the impeller bearing which may or may not impact its life. It depends on many unknown design factors. I have never found a situation using snowblowers that worried me about the distance snow was thrown as long as it was out of the area I was clearing..


I don't see the down side of an impeller kit. The flaps wear in and don't drag against housing. I did an experiment and used 2 exact same Honda HS80's to use on our famous Tahoe wet slushy snow. One machine had the kit. the other did not.

The difference was remarkable. One without clogged continuosly. The other threw the snow about 10-15 feet. With regular snow they both threw about 30-50 feet.

I f the gap is not too big ( less than maybe 3/8ths of an inch some members say ) then an impeller kit won't probably make a difference.

I tell people to have their blower up to spec regarding fast throttle rpms, belts good and adjusted , and impeller fans and augers should not be crooked. all blowing efficiency drags.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

orangputeh said:


> I don't see the down side of an impeller kit. The flaps wear in and don't drag against housing. I did an experiment and used 2 exact same Honda HS80's to use on our famous Tahoe wet slushy snow. One machine had the kit. the other did not.
> 
> The difference was remarkable. One without clogged continuosly. The other threw the snow about 10-15 feet. With regular snow they both threw about 30-50 feet.
> 
> ...


I would say it this way. If your machine clogs with wet snow you could benefit with an impeller kit. If you are looking for more throwing distance and your machine does not clog on wet snow, get a new machine with a larger impeller and more engine torque. Throwing distance is a function of the impeller diameter and velocity(RPM). 

******This assume everything is working correctly. Engine is tuned, belts not slipping etc. Cheers!


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

My machine rarely clogs but I often get wet snow that falls out of the side of the chute more than it lobs it out the top. I've never been able to tell if the belt is slipping or not. 

Not sure if an impeller mod will help or not. I'm assuming clogs means it stops blowing completely?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I did last year to my Ariens JD 826. I've used it 5 times including in soup. I don't know if it improved it but it certainly did no harm.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> I did last year to my Ariens JD 826. I've used it 5 times including in soup. I don't know if it improved it but it certainly did no harm.


Well.
That certainly doesn't instil much confidence.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Snow varies, wetter, drier, heavier, lighter, duster, from storm to storm, it's hard to tell. I had a large gap I wanted to fill in. I did that. The chute did not clog but it didn't prior. Though this snowblower is old, it's new to me so the experiences I've had are limited, maybe 1 or 2 snows prior to adding the rubber. Where I live in NJ, we don't get a lot of snow generally or often.


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## Patrick0525 (Dec 24, 2020)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> It has alot to do with surface finish. A cast iron pipe has a rough ID surface finish while an extuded PVC pipe has a smooth one. The dry coefficient of friction is also much lower on plastic but when you are dealing with wet and icy environments they are much closer to each other. You can read many post here where people will atest to cleaning up the chute rust, painting and waxing so that the wet snow does not stick. If your steel chute is rust free a couple of coats of a good car wax in the warmer weather will go a long way. Just some elbow grease. No welding required.



Maybe an alternative is that 3M ScotchCal product installed on a new machine lining the impeller and chute housing. I have used it on the nose of my car as a near invisible car bra. Some 3M their entire car with it. No car waxing. An Incredible product. It was 1st developed for Operation Desert Storm to prevent sand erosion of helicopter blade tips. I think they used 3mil thickness.


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


>





Smokie1 said:


>



WOW!!! Might have done the job but what a contraption!! It reminded me of the old ''belt and pully'' systems used in yesterday's factories. And it was still manufactured until 1971?


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## rktompsett (Jan 29, 2021)

A gimic, if it's not broke, don't fix it.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

rktompsett said:


> A gimic, if it's not broke, don't fix it.


have you actually tried it? i have done it to many machines and the result is awesome but that is just my experience. i had 2 mtd machines at my sisters place about a month ago. 1 with the impeller mod and 1 without and the 1 with the impeller mod was throwing at least 10-20ft farther than the machine without the impeller mod.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

rktompsett said:


> A gimic, if it's not broke, don't fix it.


absolutely not a gimmic, but if you dont have clogging issues dont bother unless yer into modding the machine for better performance.


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## kbell (Mar 17, 2013)

Look up this video from sixtyfiveford on YouTube. *TEST snow blower Impeller Modification with and without*


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

rktompsett said:


> A gimic, if it's not broke, don't fix it.


That's some argument you brought to the table.


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## TheLastViking (Sep 10, 2017)

foggysail said:


> Why do folks need to add devices to a factory manufactured machine to chuck snow further than it was designed to do? Is there a reason? Doing so adds stress to the impeller bearing which may or may not impact its life. It depends on many unknown design factors. I have never found a situation using snowblowers that worried me about the distance snow was thrown as long as it was out of the area I was clearing..


You must’ve never had to move wet snow. My old Ariens would clog immediately until I did the impeller mod.


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## mick461 (Dec 28, 2020)

I did the impeller mod I made my own, I had the material and heated work area. My 2012 Simple City Signature power boost will clog way more than my old '94' Snapper ever would! For an FYI check clearance all the way around the drum! I had the chute removed and found the clearance at 6 O'clock was tighter than 3 O'clock... I have a 4 blade impeller so I only modified 2 blades and it made an improvement! I cleared out my driveway apron and the machine will throw snow so far so flat (4' off the ground) I had adjust to avoid filling the neighbors apron!


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## Basswelder (Jan 25, 2021)

SNOWJOE said:


> You see a lot of these You-Tube DIYERS adding impeller rubber extensions to their snow throwers impellers ends to improve thrower range and to stop clogging on heavy wet snow...The question is, why don't the OEM manufactures add these or something similar to their machines since they appear to work or help???


I did that to my old 5HP MTD and it worked awesome. I do think it contributed to eventually killing the engine, but it does almost eliminate clogging in wet snow


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Basswelder said:


> I did that to my old 5HP MTD and it worked awesome. I do think it contributed to eventually killing the engine, but it does almost eliminate clogging in wet snow


Why would this kill an engine?
The engine isn't capable of producing more power than designed to just because you put more of a load on it.

I could see making that assumption if you had shaved the head down, changed the cam and added a nitrous oxide setup to it........


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

TheLastViking said:


> You must’ve never had to move wet snow. My old Ariens would clog immediately until I did the impeller mod.


I don't where you are, I am in Ashland, MA where many many of our storms are heavy wet snow. Personally I have never ever had a problem with either my long gone Bolens 32 with a 12HP Tecumseh nor with my Ariens 28 Pro powered with B&S 420cc engine. Maybe you have the wrong machine.


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> Why would this kill an engine?
> The engine isn't capable of producing more power than designed to just because you put more of a load on it.
> 
> I could see making that assumption if you had shaved the head down, changed the cam and added a nitrous oxide setup to it........


Lugging an engine places enormous strains by generating high loads at low RPMs. This places both bearings and connecting rods at risk unless the engine is designed for that type of operation.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

foggysail said:


> Lugging an engine places enormous strains by generating high loads at low RPMs. This places both bearings and connecting rods at risk unless the engine is designed for that type of operation.


I certainly didn't imply anyone should lug an engine, ever.
I expect full load at a reasonable rpm.

If lugging killed an engine, that was operator error not the addition of some rubber flaps.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

My signature machine has 1/8" to 3/16" clarence. It will pump slush, it comes out like cow flop. Its still going, after some improvements, and modenisations. Nothing like old iron.
Sid


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Sid said:


> My signature machine has 1/8" to 3/16" clarence. It will pump slush, it comes out like cow flop. Its still going, after some improvements, and modenisations. Nothing like old iron.
> Sid


Seems like chute length and diameter have a lot to do with throwing distance. All the new machines have longer chutes, and even the lower hp models seem to throw the snow farther. Amen to tight impeller clearances on old Toro’s. I have an old 824, and I hit a piece of coarse gravel from my septic system install just right, and it slightly bent the end of one impeller blades. The old gal started scraping the inside of the impeller housing not super bad, but I could hear it. I stopped right away, and after I cleared the snow. I could see where I was loosing paint. Pulled the plug wire, locked a big vice grip on the bent tip, and raped it a few times. Bent it just enough to be right back in business. I suppose reduced clearances in there are ok if you introduce rubber into the equation, but if you’ve ever hit a dog cable, or even a towel with one of those old Toros, your in for an hour or more of frustration, and quite a wrestling match. There’s no shear pins on those old drum augers, so they wind her up....nice and tight!


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Smokie1 said:


> Pulled the plug wire, locked a big vice grip on the bent tip, and raped it a few times.


I'm the only one who got a juvenile chuckle????


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> If lugging killed an engine, that was operator error not the addition of some rubber flaps.


I'm responding just in case this argument might scare someone away from adding the impeller kit. 
The engine load without the kit can completely stall the engine due to clogging. The engine is better off with a non-clogging impeller.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Here's a photo of my 1971 Ariens with it's impeller kit throwing left. The kit is called... Meguiar's Gold Class Paste Wax applied to the inside and underneath of the exit hole area. Applying wax to this area, will allow you to (never) have a block or a clog with any kind of snow... light, heavy, dry, wet or even water. If you also apply the wax to the inside of the chute, deflector and even to the impeller, auger and the bucket, you'll be amazed on what the wax will do. Granted there is elbow grease involved, but a one time application during the summer will make it all worth while during the snow season. I am reaching the distance of 35'(+) Granted, I am using an upgraded 17" chute instead of the original 13" chute. It makes a world of difference. Absolutely no... reason to go through all this adding of rubber paddles nonsense.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

foggysail said:


> Lugging an engine places enormous strains by generating high loads at low RPMs. This places both bearings and connecting rods at risk unless the engine is designed for that type of operation.


when done properly an impeller kit would only add extra load for the first few mins of break in. after that there should be no extra load at all.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

nwcove said:


> when done properly an impeller kit would only add extra load for the first few mins of break in. after that there should be no extra load at all.


I thought when done properly the rubber shouldn't contact the housing at all?


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

They can be done so no break in is required , but most are installed snug and broken in with some sort of lube ( water, wd40 etc).


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Before you fasten the rubber you push the rubber up against the impeller housing so the wear and resistance is minimal. Some of the resistance will come from brushing against the other sides of the impeller housing as it is not perfectly round inside. As mentioned, to reduce this initial break-in resistance, spray the housing with silicone spray. Once the rubber wears and conforms to the narrowest part of the housing there no longer will be any friction wear.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

I've only done one mod, 100% home made parts. I believe I spent maybe tops $12 in nuts/bolts and aluminum. Used sidewalls from formerly brand new tires I had lying around too (long story, modded hard plastic turf tires with pneumatic X-track type treads).

Had only one opportunity to use it so far, 4" of wet sloppy stuff that usually clogs the machine I installed it on. The impeller vane gap was fairly significant compared to my other two machines which don't clog much at all (exact same model attachments, but much more narrow gaps).

Improved the throw by approximately 50% I'd say, clogging went down to a minimum. It improved the machine quite nicely. No more tootsie rolls! Only issue was I now will have to tilt the machine forward a bit to let snow melt drain off better (impeller rubber froze to housing).

Otherwise, wish I had done it sooner.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

Kielbasa said:


> View attachment 176721
> 
> Absolutely no... reason to go through all this adding of rubber paddles nonsense.


Wax won't fix a blower that has a large gap between the blades and the housing. The mod worked wonders for me.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Jatoxico said:


> Wax won't fix a blower that has a large gap between the blades and the housing. The mod worked wonders for me.


Yes it will... the more areas you wax, the better it helps. If you wax that impeller belly area, the snow will not stick. 

See the photo, this is the blizzard of 2013 where we in Connecticut we received over 33" of snow. This is my machine after I was almost done clearing out the apron area of almost 48" of snow. See how much snow stuck to the inside of the bucket area? All of the snow that went in to the machine, went out of the machine. 








stick.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

IMHO, waxing and spraying things other than water into/ on to a blower during the season is a waste of time and $$. The time for that stuff is just before off season storage. 
Neither of my blowers get snow stuck anywhere other than the auger gearbox!


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

nwcove said:


> IMHO, waxing and spraying things other than water into/ on to a blower during the season is a waste of time and $$. The time for that stuff is just before off season storage.
> Neither of my blowers get snow stuck anywhere other than the auger gearbox!


Well everyone has their opinion.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Few weeks ago we had 8 inches. I used 3 snowblowers to do mine and neighbors only because 2 are for sale and I wanted to do my best there wasno problem with them before I offered for sale. All 3 I sprayed ceramic wax on the left side and a very slippery silicon spray on the right side. After I finished I noticed no difference, no snow was stuck, but no snow ever sticks.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

Kielbasa said:


> Yes it will... the more areas you wax, the better it helps. If you wax that impeller belly area, the snow will not stick.
> 
> See the photo, this is the blizzard of 2013 where we in Connecticut we received over 33" of snow. This is my machine after I was almost done clearing out the apron area of almost 48" of snow. See how much snow stuck to the inside of the bucket area? All of the snow that went in to the machine, went out of the machine.


Not to be argumentative but for anyone on the fence, this is my experience. I've used both methods (and still do spray the auger housing) and the paddles are hands down the better improvement.

The combination of eliminating clogging and improved throw distance, which I need, using a mechanical modification that doesn't wear out and diminish with use can't be over stated IMO.

I never had much trouble in "big" snow since by and large those storms tend to produce drier snows but the mod improves the performance characteristics in that and every other type of snow, never clogging with vast improvement in distance.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Kielbasa said:


> Yes it will... the more areas you wax, the better it helps. If you wax that impeller belly area, the snow will not stick.
> 
> See the photo, this is the blizzard of 2013 where we in Connecticut we received over 33" of snow. This is my machine after I was almost done clearing out the apron area of almost 48" of snow. See how much snow stuck to the inside of the bucket area? All of the snow that went in to the machine, went out of the machine.
> 
> ...


Everything I see in that picture looks like nice dry fluffy snow?


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

ChrisJ said:


> Everything I see in that picture looks like nice dry fluffy snow?


In this photo you are 100% correct. It is lighter snow. But... when we had a storm with very wet snow that turned over to rain and I was clearing out the apron area, I was throwing very wet snow/water... nothing blocked or clogged up.


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