# Sears Craftsman 10 HP 32" Track drive 536.885000 renovation



## sock-feet

I decided to post a separate thread for this machine. This is going to be down and dirty fixer and fliper. 

Like previous people stated, the sprockets on the axel shaft is a total disaster to get off. I used a puller and two 1/4 inch bolts. The only way to get them off with the resources I have was to slit them with a cut off wheel and spread with a small chisel. I heated up the track wheels with MAP gas and pounded the axles out on the vise. 

I don't want to give up my wheels from my spare drift breaker. so I think I am going to clean up the track drive up and reuse it. Thoughts? I haven't found any other used wheels and tires locally. 

I did get it running with a 10 min quick carb clean. It seemed to run ok but I didn't put a load on it. 

Here are some pics.


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## sock-feet

sock-feet said:


> I decided to post a separate thread for this machine. This is going to be down and dirty fixer and fliper.
> 
> Like previous people stated, the sprockets on the axel shaft is a total disaster to get off. I used a puller and two 1/4 inch bolts. The only way to get them off with the resources I have was to slit them with a cut off wheel and spread with a small chisel. I heated up the track wheels with MAP gas and pounded the axles out on the vise.
> 
> I don't want to give up my wheels from my spare drift breaker. so I think I am going to clean up the track drive up and reuse it. Thoughts? I haven't found any other used wheels and tires locally.
> 
> I did get it running with a 10 min quick carb clean. It seemed to run ok but I didn't put a load on it.
> 
> Here are some pics.


This is what it looked like in the field.


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## deezlfan

Why were you taking all the tracks off in the first place? How are you going to fix the sprockets? How much damage did you do to the other track drive components when you disassembled it? I think changing it to wheels and tires will be much quicker and cheaper. 

Unless the complete track system was in good shape, I would never buy one for a flip. Too many extra parts to have troubles with.


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## HCBPH

If you plan to keep those tracks, one thing to check out is the lack of lubrication in crucial spots. I've seen and drilled a couple of the sprockets on one to add grease zerks. I'm told some have gone to plastic parts but they still stuck/rusted on. The time I looked for replacement tracks, I could not find any parts (and that was years ago) so unless they're in very good condition I'd wait till you can find some wheels.

PS that doesn't look any worse than the gray one I rebuilt the other year. They are very solid.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> If you plan to keep those tracks, one thing to check out is the lack of lubrication in crucial spots. I've seen and drilled a couple of the sprockets on one to add grease zerks. I'm told some have gone to plastic parts but they still stuck/rusted on. The time I looked for replacement tracks, I could not find any parts (and that was years ago) so unless they're in very good condition I'd wait till you can find some wheels.
> 
> PS that doesn't look any worse than the gray one I rebuilt the other year. They are very solid.


I got all of the tracks apart, cleaned, Greased with marine grease and it all went together good. I don't plan on keeping this so the next person can put grease fittings in it. The shafts in the plastic wheels surprisingly came out fairly easy. The sprockets on the axle came off very hard even with a slit. I put the sprocket back on with the slit in it and tightened the bolt so it cant go anywhere. If I were keeping it, I would mig weld the sprocket where the slit is. It should last for years as is.

I had to put good used roller chain in the track assy and the drive chain to the axel .

I separated the auger housing and pulled the bearing-it is trashed. It also made a wear mark in the auger shaft. I am going to spot weld dots on the shaft like my other one and file down to 7/8" The bearing is wicked expensive. It is 7/8" bore 2" Od and 9/16 thick. I went on sears and they want over $70.00

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/pa...goryName=Snowthrower, Gas&brandName=CRAFTSMAN

This is a keyed bearing with a flange. 

My plan is to buy a 1640-2RS off ebay for under $7.00 without a keyed slot and press it into the steel flange I have from the old bearing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1640RS-164...139868?hash=item567f500c1c:g:FZEAAOSwNSxU045L

I am going to cut the key down and just have the bearing ride on the shaft as a slip fit.

Everything else seems to be pretty good. A good wire wheeling, rust primer, and some Rustoleum and she will be ready for sale. I think that you need to disassemble the tracks every couple of years and completely lube everything IMO.


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## cranman

After tearing mine apart, I'm not a fan of the track system Murrays of that time.....I've got some parts that didn't get destroyed if some one needs them. I like the wheels on it now better....I'd keep it if I wasn't overflowing with blowers.


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## HCBPH

That bearing is something I've not seen before. I did a quick online check, found it listed from $40-$70 ea and because I don't know the real name of the bearing couldn't do a search for the bearing only.

On the shaft it could be spray welded or turned down and a sleeve JBWelded onto it to build it back up. I've seen the results of both and they seem to work.


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## sock-feet

cranman said:


> After tearing mine apart, I'm not a fan of the track system Murrays of that time.....I've got some parts that didn't get destroyed if some one needs them. I like the wheels on it now better....I'd keep it if I wasn't overflowing with blowers.


Yes. Tracks aren't my first choice either. To answer everyone's question, yes the tractor part rolls forward and backward with ease when they are all greased and cleaned. Even though this is blower is a Murray, it is still built like a tank.


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## sock-feet

I decided to take the tractor part of the blower out for a cruise. After lubing all of the pivot points, bearings, and chains, I had to clean off the friction disk and rubber drive wheel. Surprising the 10 minute carb clean worked great. It took about 2 minutes of messing with the high speed jet. Idles and runs up well. It is a goof driving it with out the blower on the front of it.

I think I kinda like the track idea. I think that it is a part of yearly maintenance of oiling and greasing everything in this blower. If I were to keep it, I would use stainless roller chain in the track system. It rolls very easy.


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## sock-feet

cranman said:


> After tearing mine apart, I'm not a fan of the track system Murrays of that time.....I've got some parts that didn't get destroyed if some one needs them. I like the wheels on it now better....I'd keep it if I wasn't overflowing with blowers.


I might take you up on those track parts. The idler wheel and the Plastic drive wheel on one side is slightly warped.


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## sock-feet

I got this all back together and it seems to be in great working order. The tracks seem good. I will probably see what it has on Sunday morning. Looks like we are getting snow.


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## aldfam4

sock-feet said:


> I got this all back together and it seems to be in great working order. The tracks seem good. I will probably see what it has on Sunday morning. Looks like we are getting snow.


Nice work sock-feet. I have to say - that is the biggest chute deflector I have ever seen, its almost as big as the main chute!!!


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## sock-feet

aldfam4 said:


> Nice work sock-feet. I have to say - that is the biggest chute deflector I have ever seen, its almost as big as the main chute!!!


Yes. It is the highest total chute I have ever seen. Reminds me of the Cesta in the game Jai Alai.


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> I got this all back together and it seems to be in great working order. The tracks seem good. I will probably see what it has on Sunday morning. Looks like we are getting snow.


Congrats on getting it all together and working. They are beasts.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Congrats on getting it all together and working. They are beasts.


Thanks. Its fun.


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## HCBPH

I noticed something I found interesting. I hadn't remembered that one had a short shaft engine on it vs. the long shaft on those with the Tecumseh transmission on it. I would have thought it would also have the long shaft like the Searsasaurs had.

Going onto another project myself. Found another Driftmaster the other night for cheap with a usable engine and control cables. I'm going to fix the engine and in turn put that on the Searsasaurus and take that other 10 I put on the Searsasaurus off and use that on the other blower chassis I've got in the garage. This one has the stator for a light while the other one doesn't. I'm going to strip the chassis down for all the usable parts and consign the rest to the scrapper unless someone needs parts and is willing to take care of getting them. I don't have time to deal with big stuff nor do I want to try and deal with them. Things like that auger housing are too big and heavy to deal with IMO.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> I noticed something I found interesting. I hadn't remembered that one had a short shaft engine on it vs. the long shaft on those with the Tecumseh transmission on it. I would have thought it would also have the long shaft like the Searsasaurs had.
> 
> Going onto another project myself. Found another Driftmaster the other night for cheap with a usable engine and control cables. I'm going to fix the engine and in turn put that on the Searsasaurus and take that other 10 I put on the Searsasaurus off and use that on the other blower chassis I've got in the garage. This one has the stator for a light while the other one doesn't. I'm going to strip the chassis down for all the usable parts and consign the rest to the scrapper unless someone needs parts and is willing to take care of getting them. I don't have time to deal with big stuff nor do I want to try and deal with them. Things like that auger housing are too big and heavy to deal with IMO.


How long was the shaft on the Searsasaurs? The Tec 10hp shaft on the two blowers I have is about 3.5-4' The shaft on the HF 420 13 hp is quiet a bit longer.


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## vinnycom

as for the bearing i have the exact one used in my sb. part number 9648MA on amazon.ca i bought for $35can(cheaper in u.s. funds) w/shipping sold by www.c-equipment.com, might be cheaper to buy from him directly. i could not find a stand alone bearing w/a key. w/out the key the shaft will wear out the inner bearing race prematurely and might damage the shaft due to friction and heat.
ID 7/8" OD 2" Height 9/16"
Complete with metal cover and key stock.
in my sig theres a video on my destroyed bearing showing the new replacement bearing that i bought.


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## sock-feet

vinnycom said:


> as for the bearing i have the exact one used in my sb. part number 9648MA on amazon.ca i bought for $35can(cheaper in u.s. funds) w/shipping sold by www.c-equipment.com, might be cheaper to buy from him directly. i could not find a stand alone bearing w/a key. w/out the key the shaft will wear out the inner bearing race prematurely and might damage the shaft due to friction and heat.
> ID 7/8" OD 2" Height 9/16"
> Complete with metal cover and key stock.
> in my sig theres a video on my destroyed bearing showing the new replacement bearing that i bought.


Just found your post. I would have bought the correct bearing, but I am not keeping the blower and the replacement bearing should work for a good long time. 

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-happens-when-auger-bearing-not-replaced.html


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## sock-feet

Ok.

I tried this beast out today. We got about 7 Inches of wet snow. It did well and the tracks move through anything - I wasn't impressed with the 10 hp for power. It did ok and ran great, but I think the 10 hp is under powered for the size. 

The Drift Breaker I just re powered with the 13 hp killed it.


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> How long was the shaft on the Searsasaurs? The Tec 10hp shaft on the two blowers I have is about 3.5-4' The shaft on the HF 420 13 hp is quiet a bit longer.


original motor has a 2 7/8" crankshaft on it. The first 10 HP I picked up for a replacement had the bolt-on pulley and that's 2 3/8", which I made an extension on to make it long enough. Measurement is from the edge of the block to the end of the crankshaft insuring the measure is flat against the block and not in one of the depressions.

On comparing the 2 blowers and how they did on your recent snow may not be too valid. Remember the track unit has the overhead of a track along with a friction disc drive. The one with the HF engine has no track overhead and with the Tecumseh transmission IMO it has a better power to energy conversion than the other. Neither good nor bad, just different.


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