# Ariens Platinum 30 Model 921018 (2011 Revision): Stator Upgrade for LED's



## Bassguitarist1985 (Aug 22, 2016)

hello all!

So as the winter approaches, I'm circling back on this project of mine to upgrade the machine to have LED lights. The biggest drawback is the 862 halogen bulb. 20 watts doesn't throw a lot of light. An LED equivalent is an 881, but barely can throw 170 lumens.

The original stator #797090 is a half moon shape, 5A max or 60 watts. I have the 20 watt halogen and the 40 watt heated hand grips. I scored an upgraded stator part#695466 for $12 bucks new off ebay...SCORE! I thought of getting two #797090 and running them independently. In theory they should fit but the bigger stator was a better fit.

I want to install two Maxxima 1200 lumen work lights on the blower housing, or may eventually make custom brackets as I have the snow cab on it. I'll add the biggest LED you can fit for the OEM light housing just because. I've already tested with a 2200mfd cap and bridge rectifier that the one LED worklight runs great with no flicker! Sadly I need more wattage than the 797090 stator can output. 

I am installing two Maxxima 1200 lumen work lights. I'm still debating a light bar to mount over the blower housing, depends on what I can get my hands on for cheap. I will have 11 watt (0.92A) in the OEM housing, and each Maxxima 1200 lumen light will pull 1.56A each, for a total of 4.04 Amps in lights, and another 40 watts in heated grips at 2.5A roughly. So my total overall is a bit over 6.5 Amps.

- My question is on the flywheel, do I have to replace it for bigger magnets for the increased output?

- The mounting pillars for the stator, since its a half moon size, the bottom two may or may not be tapped with threads, can anyone confirm? What size bolts? How long? 

Trying to get the prework research done before I start tearing into it. I'm waiting for the flywheel removal tool in the mail, and i'm ready to rock. Going to post a bit more so I can share some pictures of the build.

Bass


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

you guys that can wrap your head around that electrical stuff boggle my mind ! :smiley-shocked029::smiley-shocked029::smiley-shocked029::smiley-shocked029:

but why not get good gloves and forget the hand warmers ? you also mention a light bar, i fabbed up a custom driftcutter setup with a crossbar and mounted two battery powered led's on it, it keeps the lights up high and out front where there is no chute shadow. just a suggestion.


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## Bassguitarist1985 (Aug 22, 2016)

nwcove said:


> you guys that can wrap your head around that electrical stuff boggle my mind ! :smiley-shocked029::smiley-shocked029::smiley-shocked029::smiley-shocked029:
> 
> but why not get good gloves and forget the hand warmers ? you also mention a light bar, i fabbed up a custom driftcutter setup with a crossbar and mounted two battery powered led's on it, it keeps the lights up high and out front where there is no chute shadow. just a suggestion.


I def got some good gloves, and the hand warmers are a nice premium feature. I like having it there in case I want to use them. The lightbar I had in mind at 24' draws 8.2A, which is a lot and the handwarmers are 2.5 amps, stator only handles 10A continuous. So the Maxxima's are the way to go. 

You mentioned you setup a crossbar, that doesn't interfere with the snow coming out of the discharge chute? You have a picture?


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

heres a couple, as you can see, it serves three purposes, allows the machine to easily sit in the service position, small drift cutter, and light bar.


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## Bassguitarist1985 (Aug 22, 2016)

Two floods on top, two spots on the auger housing. Some serious zombie lighting! I still have to paint the wood black so it blends in. Attached to the frame of the cab using 1/2" hose clamps. Its light in weight, simple, and effective. 

1. This stator requires a voltage regulator with a battery. Stator outputs 15-36VAC at various engine speeds. Too much at full speed for LEDs and heated grips. Regulator keeps at a solid 14.2 volts. 
2. You do not need to change the male end of the stator. Stator has a male end, regulator has a female input, and output is male molex connector
3. Molex size is .084"
4. Battery can be very small. I'm using a 1.3Ah SLA battery with a switch to disconnect the LEDs and battery from the regulator. 
5. The regulator outputs VDC, but its still advisable to put a 4700mF 50V cap in parallel with the LED's to smooth out the VDC. It is also critical since if you disconnect the battery from the regulator with the engine running, the cap continues to serve the purpose of a voltage source with the battery out of circuit.
6. The stator bolts are M4 x 20mm long with a 0.7 pitch. You will need the appropriate sized thread tap to thread the two unused studs.
7. You do not need to upgrade the magnets, they are more than adequate. They are the smaller size variety not the large.
8. The flywheel nut is a sonuva-b to break loose. You will need a strap wrench and either an impact gun or a lot of muscle. Do not reinstall the nut with the impact gun, asking for trouble later down the road there.
9. Heated grips and original lighting wires are not referenced to frame ground, but floating. The original stator was referenced to chassis ground, thus red/black output wires. New stator has two black wires and is floating from frame ground. This will not hurt the lights, stator, or regulator. 
10. I incorrectly state in my video the OEM stator part#. The correct part# is 797090

If I missed anything please let me know. Hope you all like the video!

















































Parts used...Not necessarily bought from Amazon, just an easy way to link and shop from there.

Deflector cable: 110mm extended length, 10mm bellow width, 2mm top connector, 12mm bottom connector - 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPO19PO

Chute Lock Cable: 40mm extended length, all the same specs above
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JG5XPT8

Voltage regulator:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX93T6Y

Briggs Stator:
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-695466-ALTERNATOR/dp/B00PKDMD52


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