# How the HECK do you change oil on a Honda without making a mess?



## orangputeh

everytime I change the oil on a Honda I make a mess no matter what precautions I take.

I have tried all kinds of different funnels. do you run a long one over the tracks or a smaller one between the track and frame?

Is there any tricks of the trade to do this right?


----------



## YSHSfan

Use a long and narrow funnel and a container.


----------



## Sblg43

As a small engine mechanic, I bought a "Mitymac Fluid evacuator". It saves me a lot of time and mess. I stick the tube in the oil fill hole and suck the oil out.

However, with a $100 price tag, it's not something that most people have in their shop for that once a season use.

Here is a pic of an alternative that I use as well:


----------



## jtclays

Same as Sblg43, bought it originally to avoid removing several protection plates under my son's car just to get to the oil drain. After you use it a few times you'd be surprised how many other things are easier to do. Transfer cases, "no bottom drain" lawn mowers, I/O boats, inboard gear cases, snowblowers:smiley-greet025:


----------



## grouchy-hermit

I use the PL-2000 from Pela for my small engines. It might add a bit of time to an oil change but there is no mess. I hate messy oil spills. I also cut up disposable under pads (used on beds for incontinence) to catch the inevitable spill when removing the horizontal oil filter from my mower.


----------



## tpenfield

Plastic tubing would be good, as long as it has the oil drain extension pipe, and run it between track & chassis to an oil container.


----------



## DriverRider

In the video I can see the handlebar height is very low (mid thigh). Is this the reason why some augers wear out on Honda's, the operator is dropping bucket too far to get comfortable handlebar height?


----------



## Freezn

Get yourself one of these Drainzit oil discharge hoses for Honda Engines. Best $16.00 I ever spent. Takes 2 mins to change the oil now with ZERO mess.


https://www.amazon.com/Drainzit-HON1012-Changing-Honda-GX240/dp/B000PDN6R6


----------



## RedOctobyr

Unfortunately for me, I have no experience with Honda blowers. But watching a bit of that video helped understand the mess problem, since the drain plug is right at the engine block, with just a little metal spout to help direct the oil beyond the frame. So it will likely make a mess of that little spout area, at least, and could get onto the tracks, on that machine. 

Would it be possible to add your own extension to the drain? My Ariens machines have Tecumseh engines, with extensions attached to their oil drain plug holes on the engine. There is a pipe nipple (pipe with male threads at both ends) screwed into the block, extending rearwards beyond the frame, with a cap screwed onto it. You don't do anything at the engine block to drain the oil, you just take the cap off the extension pipe, which is easily accessible under the handlebars area. 

Could that approach be used here? The next time you change the oil, replace the normal drain plug with a short piece of pipe. Then add a 90° elbow to aim it towards the back of the machine (vs sticking out above the wheels/tracks), and use a longer piece of pipe with a cap on it, to extend the drain beyond the frame? 

For the next oil change, you can put a bucket below the cap, and unscrew the cap to drain it.


----------



## Buttchet

MityVac is well worth the money, works great and makes for zero mess. very glad I bought one - had mine for 3 years now and lots of oil changes with no issues


----------



## jtclays

Just tapping the dead horse, not beatingPerhaps the best part of the evacuation setup is they can pump also. No wobbly pans trying to pour into another container for the recycling place. You pop the switch and pump it directly back out the tube into a container. It's as good as having an angle grinder or vice on the bench. You'll keep using it.


----------



## dhazelton

You can make an extension trough cut out of a plastic one gallon squarish bottle. Or cut something up out of a piece of pvc pipe. To fill I fave a measuring funnel that has a two foot long plastic hose on it with an on/off valve.


----------



## Marlow

DriverRider said:


> In the video I can see the handlebar height is very low (mid thigh). Is this the reason why some augers wear out on Honda's, the operator is dropping bucket too far to get comfortable handlebar height?


The augers wear because of user error. The skid shoes should be adjusted such that now matter how low you adjust the bucket, the augers don't bite the pavement. 

I haven't changed the oil on mine yet, but I have been told by others that they drive the track opposite the drain plug up onto a little ramp so that the machine is on a diagonal slew to drain the oil.


----------



## LouC

I've been using this for years, on all the 4 stroke yard equipment and our I/O boat. It will even suck gear oil out of differentials, to make less of a mess (removing the cover after most of the oil is out is much less messy) same with auto transmissions that don't have a drain plug on the pan.....


----------



## Prime

dhazelton said:


> You can make an extension trough cut out of a plastic one gallon squarish bottle. Or cut something up out of a piece of pvc pipe. To fill I fave a measuring funnel that has a two foot long plastic hose on it with an on/off valve.


Agree. It does not need to be fancy. Notch out a piece of PVC or similiar to fit tightly under the drain and long enough to clear the tracks and reach your drain pan. Notched out you can remove the drain plug with the spout in place. Works great and the price is right. Avoid oil getting on the tracks, rots the rubber.


----------



## jrom

I do what hsblowersfan posted, a narrow funnel but I cut the top tab off that sometimes is on these cheapies that the manufacturers uses to hang their wares on the display rack, then I add a pice of tin foil underneath the funnel. 

In my house we save the cleanest foil after baking things in the oven. I go through the drawer at oil change time and usually find a piece. Conforms well to the contours of the engine block where it meets the funnel. Bada boom, bada bing...done in 10 minutes.

Wipe up any minor spill and any left over adds to a well lubed engine bed stay.


----------



## Tomatillo

I have these in two different sizes. I wipe them down when finished and keep them in a plastic box with a lid on it.












https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-Flexible-Draining-Tool/dp/B017MTFIYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489499263&sr=8-1&keywords=pig%2Boil%2Bfunnel&th=1


I do the same for a large plastic funnel I use for my truck. All other funnels I use the paper disposable kind.


----------



## JLawrence08648

RedOctobyr said:


> Would it be possible to add your own extension to the drain? My Ariens machines have Tecumseh engines, with extensions attached to their oil drain plug holes on the engine. There is a pipe nipple (pipe with male threads at both ends) screwed into the block, extending rearwards beyond the frame, with a cap screwed onto it. You don't do anything at the engine block to drain the oil, you just take the cap off the extension pipe, which is easily accessible under the handlebars area.
> 
> Could that approach be used here? The next time you change the oil, replace the normal drain plug with a short piece of pipe. Then add a 90° elbow to aim it towards the back of the machine (vs sticking out above the wheels/tracks), and use a longer piece of pipe with a cap on it, to extend the drain beyond the frame?
> 
> For the next oil change, you can put a bucket below the cap, and unscrew the cap to drain it.


It can't be used as the plug is metric and the pipe of course is pipe threads, very coarse.


----------



## JLawrence08648

What I've done with commercial walk behind mowers, leaf blowers where I was unable to run pipe out the side or to the rear, I drilled a hole or cut a hole with my torch, could use a jig saw if you removed the engine, under the oil drain plug and let the oil out the hole into a pan underneath. I realize the pan on the bottom of a snowblower provides an obstacle. The flexible Honda drain hose sold on Amazon pointed out by Freezn may be the best choice.


----------



## Marlow

JLawrence08648 said:


> What I've done with commercial walk behind mowers, leaf blowers where I was unable to run pipe out the side or to the rear, I drilled a hole or cut a hole with my torch, could use a jig saw if you removed engine, under the oil drain plug and let the oil run down. I realize the pan on the bottom provides an obstacle. The flexible Honda drain hose sold on Amazon pointed out by Freezn may be the best choice.


Really? With a walk behind mower? Wow! I just tip it on its side like Honda recommends. 

Same with a snowblower, elevate the side opposite the drain plug, then the plug is at such an angle that it will just go straight into your collection pan without touching the snowblower.


----------



## JLawrence08648

Marlow said:


> Really? With a walk behind mower? Wow! I just tip it on its side like Honda recommends.
> 
> Same with a snowblower, elevate the side opposite the drain plug, then the plug is at such an angle that it will just go straight into your collection pan without touching the snowblower.


When you are dealing with 48" and 61" walk behinds, they are both heavy and clumsy. Besides letting it run down the metal is so sloppy and leaves a oily mess that needs to be wiped up. Besides with the use mowers get, I was changing the oil weekly, of course much more often than a snowblower.


----------



## Marlow

^^Letting it run down what metal? It just goes straight into the pan.. 

And I've gotta say, I have never seen anybody use such a huge walk behind mower. Not saying they don't exist. But if such a huge mower is necessary, aren't you better off with a ride on at that point?


----------



## tabora

Well, having suffered through messy oil changes on my HS80 snowblower and HR214 mower, I just ordered the HON1012 and HON1010 Drainzit tubes for the new HSS1332 and the mower, since those looked like inexpensive and easy solutions. I'll have the 20 hour change coming up on the HSS1332 by summer and I'm doing a ring job on the mower, so both will be a good test. Just plan to tip both of them on an angle on their sides opposite the drain hole to install the hoses. Will see how they work when warm weather comes!


----------



## [email protected]

Here is a literal neat tip the next time you need to do a 'tip over' type oil drain...

Drive/roll the oil drain side of the machine up onto a 2 x 4 or other suitable scrap lumber. Now when you tip it over, you'll have more clearance between the drain/fill tube and catchpan for a no-drama drain.


----------



## orangputeh

i'll have to try the foil thing.

yesterday pretty successful. put a 2 by 4 on opposite track and used a tranny funnel ( long ). 

still a little run down the frame . may not have had the funnel completely under the ramp when trying to get the drain plug off.


----------



## buffettck

On my HS720, I just use a disposable foil brownie or cake baking pan under the blower. Pull the drain plug and tip it back. Easy peasy. When it's drained, tip it back up, reinstall the drain plug and fill according to the manual. There's always going to be a bit of oil to wipe off the blower when done, so keep it over the baking pan. Nothing ever gets on the garage floor.


----------



## buffettck

Sblg43 said:


> As a small engine mechanic, I bought a "Mitymac Fluid evacuator". It saves me a lot of time and mess. I stick the tube in the oil fill hole and suck the oil out.
> 
> However, with a $100 price tag, it's not something that most people have in their shop for that once a season use.


Why "once a season use"? I've been looking at getting one. Can do the blower, mower, cars, motorcycle, etc.


----------



## Sblg43

I was thinking of people who may only use it for changing oil in their mower and snow thrower. But yes, there are many more machines in the garage that may need an oil change. My bad, I didn't think that all the way through.


----------



## CalgaryPT

Here in Canada this same evacuator is sold at Princess Auto. It works the same, and is very helpful. Aside from draining oil, it has countless other uses, such as pulling stale gas from lawn mowers and snowblowers at end of season or when neighbours have left it in too long, and you need to do a carb clean but the tank is full.

High recommended!


----------



## tabora

Well, it was a nice day today, so I finally tipped my HSS1332ATD to the left and installed the Drainzit HON1012. Looks like oil changes will be a snap going forward!


----------



## Rivernerd

tabora said:


> Well, it was a nice day today, so I finally tipped my HSS1332ATD to the left and installed the Drainzit HON1012. Looks like oil changes will be a snap going forward!


Tabora:
Thanks for the tip! I ordered a Drainzit Hon1012 for my new 2020 HSS1332ATD. But, I found that Honda has made two changes relevant to this discussion: (1) Honda added an oil drain extension, as shown in the first attached photo and (2) Honda now uses a 10mm drain plug on the end of the oil drain extension, so I had to exchange the Hon1012 for a Hon1010. The second attached photo also shows how I secured it to the wiring harness with zip ties. By zip tying the included rubber connector to the wiring harness, I can now simply remove the Drainzit hose from the rubber connector for oil changes, then secure it again after the oil change.












.
Thanks to all who posted on this thread. It helped me a lot!


----------



## CalgaryPT

Rivernerd said:


> Tabora:
> Thanks for the tip! I ordered a Drainzit Hon1012 for my new 2020 HSS1332ATD. But, I found that Honda has made two changes relevant to this discussion: (1) Honda added an oil drain extension, as shown in the first attached photo and (2) Honda now uses a 10mm drain plug on the end of the oil drain extension, so I had to exchange the Hon1012 for a Hon1010. The second attached photo also shows how I secured it to the wiring harness with zip ties. By zip tying the included rubber connector to the wiring harness, I can now simply remove the Drainzit hose from the rubber connector for oil changes, then secure it again after the oil change.
> View attachment 170954
> View attachment 170955
> .
> Thanks to all who posted on this thread. It helped me a lot!


Those are such a handy mod. Finally I don't spill oil anymore. So simple.


----------



## JnC

As tabora mentioned, tip the machine to the opposing side, remove the nut AND the extension, no point keeping the extension, I usually remove them from the machines, install the drainzit attachment, bring the machine to level, run it to warm the oil up, drain it, fill it up and you are done.


----------



## orangputeh

embarrassing. i started this thread 3 and a half years ago?

what a dope this younger orangputeh is.

good advice JnC. this is what I do now and advise. but always afraid some owner is gonna dump their machine on the side and then sue me. 

off topic @JnC.....just received a 10 pack of those 7 by 35mm pins and have 5 machines that I bought from a commercial business ( all 828's and 928's ) that need these final drive gearboxes rebuilt . 

good winter projects at the kitchen table if the old lady is taking a nap.

"_HOW COME MY HOUSE STINKS!?!?!"_


----------



## tabora

Rivernerd said:


> But, I found that Honda has made two changes relevant to this discussion: (1) Honda added an oil drain extension, as shown in the first attached photo and (2) Honda now uses a 10mm drain plug on the end of the oil drain extension, so I had to exchange the Hon1012 for a Hon1010.
> .


That's not a change, the HSS1332 has always had the extension. You have to remove it as well to use the HON1012 Drainzit, since it is superfluous. You can use the HON1010 on the extension, but it'll drain a little slower and it sticks out farther.

EDIT: I see that @JnC has already informed you of this...


----------



## JnC

orangputeh said:


> off topic @JnC.....just received a 10 pack of those 7 by 35mm pins and have 5 machines that I bought from a commercial business ( all 828's and 928's ) that need these final drive gearboxes rebuilt .
> 
> good winter projects at the kitchen table if the old lady is taking a nap.
> 
> "_HOW COME MY HOUSE STINKS!?!?!"_




I just did put a couple of them over the weekend and got two machines back in business, some times when they shear its tough to knock them out of the hole as they dont shear clean off and so the punch has tough time sitting straight on the sheared pin.

I gotta weld together a jig or something that holds the shaft in place tight while I knock out the sheared pin. The wheels are already turning in my head on the design.

The last one was a pain as the sheared pin broke at an angle and the knock just wouldnt sit straight on the broken bit.

I have even thought of going to 8mm pins, they wont fit in the slot present in the gear but that can always be widened with some burrs.


----------



## orangputeh

JnC said:


> I just did put a couple of them over the weekend and got two machines back in business, some times when they shear its tough to knock them out of the hole as they dont shear clean off and so the punch has tough time sitting straight on the sheared pin.
> 
> I gotta weld together a jig or something that holds the shaft in place tight while I knock out the sheared pin. The wheels are already turning in my head on the design.
> 
> The last one was a pain as the sheared pin broke at an angle and the knock just wouldnt sit straight on the broken bit.
> 
> I have even thought of going to 8mm pins, they wont fit in the slot present in the gear but that can always be widened with some burrs.


i'm hoping i can knock old ones out. i tried before but no luck. thought it couldnt be done until you mentioned it. it's worth a try though considering the costly alternative. you cant drill them , right as they are hardened steel.


----------



## mdubby

Anybody use a fumoto valve on their blower to change oil? I have them on my cars and was thinking maybe one would fit. Put one on with the nipple so u can attach a hose to drain. Probably not but was curious.


----------



## tabora

mdubby said:


> Anybody use a fumoto valve on their blower


@SkunkyLawnmowers does on some of her equipment: Honda HSS724AW Which Fumoto Valve?
I use these similar ones on all my generators: EZ Oil Drain Valve - EZ-124 : 10mm-1.25
However, on the Hondas the valves are tough to fit because of the bed interference. That's why we use the Drainzits.


----------



## Toats MaGoats

I use a Fluid Evacuator on any liquid removal from all my vehicles and small engine repair work. Soooooo clean.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## 140278

Toats MaGoats said:


> I use a Fluid Evacuator on any liquid removal from all my vehicles and small engine repair work. Soooooo clean.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


same here, almost totally no touch oil changes , only since we also see automatic trannies filling the new no dip stick one. that means also needing one that dispenses fluids also ,many see them as costly but when they save time doing more than oil changes they see the other true uses


----------



## mdubby

What about form a funnel? That seems like a great option, if you can fit it beneath the oil drain plug. I actually dont have one and not sure why I dont. Time to pick one up!


----------

