# Ariens Platinum Series 24” SHO



## Davejb (Jan 28, 2018)

Found a used one (2016 model) on FB for $1000, been thinking about upgrading my Troy-Bilt 2410, is this a decent blower? Price seems good.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

its a race car best hp per bucket width on the market
has hi speed imp
nicer controls
heated grips
poly shoes worth 30
drift cutters 35 or better
if its mint 900 is good
800 a steal


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## Davejb (Jan 28, 2018)

Thanks for the input, got it for $900, seller says it was a backup for his tractor, used 6 or 7 times


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## Hogan773 (May 14, 2021)

Damn, great deal for this Platinum at $900 when I paid $600 for Deluxe 24 last summer


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

good for you
change oil
adjust everything
check all bolts
check max rpm most are set low around 3500
lct specs 3850 plus mnus a 100
impeller kit your set


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## Hogan773 (May 14, 2021)

1132le said:


> good for you
> change oil
> adjust everything
> check all bolts
> ...


Should I check and adjust RPM on my Deluxe 24 as well? It has the Ariens AX LCT engine so does that mean it could be cranked up a little? I guess unfortunately I don't have a tachometer though to measure it


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

1132le said:


> good for you
> change oil
> adjust everything
> check all bolts
> ...


That’s a good price. I have a 2019. Loves to have the bucket full. The more you feed it, the further it throws it. Non EFI as well, which I prefer. ( I’m old fashion I guess) I’m a proponent of adding SeaFoam to your gas can so it gets a little every time you fill up. Your going to love it!


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Hogan773 said:


> Should I check and adjust RPM on my Deluxe 24 as well? It has the Ariens AX LCT engine so does that mean it could be cranked up a little? I guess unfortunately I don't have a tachometer though to measure it


buy 1 its 12 bucks outside hole on the gov arm took me from 3500 and change to 3825 ish the motor loved it


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## Davejb (Jan 28, 2018)

Smokie1 said:


> That’s a good price. I have a 2019. Loves to have the bucket full. The more you feed it, the further it throws it. Non EFI as well, which I prefer. ( I’m old fashion I guess) I’m a proponent of adding SeaFoam to your gas can so it gets a little every time you fill up. Your going to love it!


 I just switched to E0 gas, found a station about 30 minutes away that has it, and added stabil & seafoam to my regiment as well. Should be able to get 4-500 selling my 2410, been a good blower but bought it when I was on a budget, now ready for some of those extra goodies.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Hogan773 said:


> Should I check and adjust RPM on my Deluxe 24 as well? It has the Ariens AX LCT engine so does that mean it could be cranked up a little? I guess unfortunately I don't have a tachometer though to measure it


Engine mfg's "redline" speed has almost nothing to do with what works best on a blower, and what the blower mfg. recommends. I have a Plat 24, and even at facory speed, throw is impressive, and upping speed would accomplish nothing other than hitting neighbors homes and such . . . "If it isn't broken, don't fix it" definitely applies here. Lower speed also results in longer life.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Davejb said:


> I just switched to E0 gas, found a station about 30 minutes away that has it, and added stabil & seafoam to my regiment as well. Should be able to get 4-500 selling my 2410, been a good blower but bought it when I was on a budget, now ready for some of those extra goodies.


I buy my gas up North and bring it back with me. I now run non ethanol premium in all my small engines. It’s so much better for the carbs, and the engines love it. Not much snow by me so far this year, so used machines are not drawing top dollar. If it’s clean it should sell.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

tadawson said:


> Engine mfg's "redline" speed has almost nothing to do with what works best on a blower, and what the blower mfg. recommends. I have a Plat 24, and even at facory speed, throw is impressive, and upping speed would accomplish nothing other than hitting neighbors homes and such . . . "If it isn't broken, don't fix it" definitely applies here. Lower speed also results in longer life.


I agree. My 24 SHO really throws it. I’ve got to be careful of neighbors cars and houses. No need to increase throwing distance with this machine, no matter what the snow consistency!


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

tadawson said:


> Engine mfg's "redline" speed has almost nothing to do with what works best on a blower, and what the blower mfg. recommends. I have a Plat 24, and even at facory speed, throw is impressive, and upping speed would accomplish nothing other than hitting neighbors homes and such . . . "If it isn't broken, don't fix it" definitely applies here. Lower speed also results in longer life.


several with lct have done it including me ALL have reported better performance
again 1st hand use
you dont even know what your rpm is
almost everything you say in that post is wrong
carry on


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Smokie1 said:


> I agree. My 24 SHO really throws it. I’ve got to be careful of neighbors cars and houses. No need to increase throwing distance with this machine, no matter what the snow consistency!


you might not need it others do need it like me
if you cant lower the chute thats operator error it adds 5 feet distance maybe smh
where it helps most is on plow piles everything isnt about throw distance
since you have also not done it you have no 1st hand use about it


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

1132le said:


> several with lct have done it including me ALL have reported better performance
> again 1st hand use
> you dont even know what your rpm is
> almost everything you say in that post is wrong
> carry on


Riiiigggggght . . . . whatever, blow up whatever you like. Myself, I find myself more in need of being able to run _slower_, not faster . . . And true, I have not tached that engine, simply because there is currently no reason to need to. If "better performance" is "more distance", then that's not always better . . .


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

tadawson said:


> Riiiigggggght . . . . whatever, blow up whatever you like. Myself, I find myself more in need of being able to run _slower_, not faster . . . And true, I have not tached that engine, simply because there is currently no reason to need to. If "better performance" is "more distance", then that's not always better . . .


yeah just like your rant about impellers blowing up or gear boxes getting ripped out from increasing speeds or impeller kits
but how many have done it with no issues everyone
my own st824 29 yrs old in 2009 upped the speed to 3850 alum gearbox in 2009 still no issuses and again 29 yrs of service before i did it
still pumps water like a fire hose starts 1/2 a pull burns no oil blows snow 45 feet 20 feet more then rated new
end of story lol


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## Hogan773 (May 14, 2021)

1132le said:


> yeah just like your rant about impellers blowing up or gear boxes getting ripped out from increasing speeds or impeller kits
> but how many have done it with no issues everyone
> my own st824 29 yrs old in 2009 upped the speed to 3850 alum gearbox in 2009 still no issuses and again 29 yrs of service before i did it
> still pumps water like a fire hose starts 1/2 a pull burns no oil blows snow 45 feet 20 feet more then rated new
> end of story lol


So to be clear, if I messed around with upping the RPM, then I am upping the impeller speed across the curve (across all power loads) which will just improve throw distance and throughput yes? And the downside is higher wear on the engine though


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## Hollowpoint (Oct 20, 2021)

Davejb said:


> Found a used one (2016 model) on FB for $1000, been thinking about upgrading my Troy-Bilt 2410, is this a decent blower? Price seems good.


Great find....you won't go wrong with that.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Hogan773 said:


> So to be clear, if I messed around with upping the RPM, then I am upping the impeller speed across the curve (across all power loads) which will just improve throw distance and throughput yes? And the downside is higher wear on the engine though


you only have idle and full throttle my junkbox 42 yr old st824 throws snow 40 plus feet turned up with a kit before 20 feet and clogged i get wet snow on the coat also better on plow piles it made a pos a useable primary snow blower brand new they were rated 25 to 30 feet with the best snow really about 20 feet if you were lucky what more can be said
higher wear is just conjecture
if my flathead gets turned up after its 29 yrs old which everyone say blow up after 3600
ive been running my current since 2009 between 3750 and 3900 no issues with clean full oil its now 42 yrs old
and all others before for yrs
it uses no oil starts 1/2 a pull
does lct last as long i will say its built way better but thats conjecture
iam running my lct 3950 to 4000 rpm burns no oil starts right up
yes it clears and throws better is not conjecture or felix unger dont venture from stock bs
move to the oustide hole you gain about 250 rpm 3600 to 3850 3500 3750
buy a tach measure it then try it
dont like it move it back
this bs about blowing up impellers and gearboxes is just factually wrong hondas run 1350 impeller rpm and 3800 plus engines speeds stock
my conjecture is most manufactures have a lower redline rpm rating then is safe to protect the engine
so if its 3950 then 3850 is more then fine
iam sure it throws fine without the rpm increase you will only gain around 5 feet in distance
imo impeller kit is must do just wont clog ever again ive been 13 yrs without a clog


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## packetloss (Dec 26, 2016)

tadawson said:


> Engine mfg's "redline" speed has almost nothing to do with what works best on a blower, and what the blower mfg. recommends. I have a Plat 24, and even at facory speed, throw is impressive, and upping speed would accomplish nothing other than hitting neighbors homes and such . . . "If it isn't broken, don't fix it" definitely applies here. Lower speed also results in longer life.


LOL too true. Everyone on my block gives me these nasty looks when they see snow being shot 50+ feet.


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## Davejb (Jan 28, 2018)

TBH living in a mobile home park this thing is a bit over powered for my needs, but the Tim Allen in me wants it, and I can always aim down😛


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

packetloss said:


> LOL too true. Everyone on my block gives me these nasty looks when they see snow being shot 50+ feet.


If the nasty look is because you're throwing snow in their driveway or at their house then that's warranted. If not then it sounds like jealousy and envy from them. Maybe they're angry their shovels can't throw 50 ft. 😂🤣. Either way happy snow blowing 👍


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

1132le said:


> yeah just like your rant about impellers blowing up or gear boxes getting ripped out from increasing speeds or impeller kits
> but how many have done it with no issues everyone
> my own st824 29 yrs old in 2009 upped the speed to 3850 alum gearbox in 2009 still no issuses and again 29 yrs of service before i did it
> still pumps water like a fire hose starts 1/2 a pull burns no oil blows snow 45 feet 20 feet more then rated new
> end of story lol


It's physics dude . . . . sorry you don't get it. I don't put excess strain and load on my stuff. Just because you got lucky doesn't mean you are smart - just like Russian roulette . . . all is fine until it is not fime . . . I choose to not go there, and apparently, the mfg's did also . . .


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Hogan773 said:


> So to be clear, if I messed around with upping the RPM, then I am upping the impeller speed across the curve (across all power loads) which will just improve throw distance and throughput yes? And the downside is higher wear on the engine though


Hgher load and wear on everything, actually. The increased speed happens in the augur, impeller, bearings, etc. and forces in rotating parts increase proportional to the square of the speed. All depends on how overdesigned the machine and components are as to how well any given machine will tolerate it.


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## Hogan773 (May 14, 2021)

tadawson said:


> Hgher load and wear on everything, actually. The increased speed happens in the augur, impeller, bearings, etc. and forces in rotating parts increase proportional to the square of the speed. All depends on how overdeaigned the machine annd components are as to how well any given machine will tolerate it.


Yep I hear you
One thing that resonated with me from earlier posts is the WHY here. Beyond my normal Tim the Toolman Taylor kneejerk instinct to make something go fasterer and biggerer and louderer, WHY. Never in the blowing of my driveway and sidewalk have I said Wow I wish I had another 5 feet of throw here....the machine at current settings throws plenty far for what I need, and in many parts of my run I am using lower chute angle to avoid blasting a white blizzard through the fence into my neighbor's patio. So I really don't have a problem that needs fixing I guess, which makes things easier


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Hogan773 said:


> Yep I hear you
> One thing that resonated with me from earlier posts is the WHY here. Beyond my normal Tim the Toolman Taylor kneejerk instinct to make something go fasterer and biggerer and louderer, WHY. Never in the blowing of my driveway and sidewalk have I said Wow I wish I had another 5 feet of throw here....the machine at current settings throws plenty far for what I need, and in many parts of my run I am using lower chute angle to avoid blasting a white blizzard through the fence into my neighbor's patio. So I really don't have a problem that needs fixing I guess, which makes things easier


That pretty much sums up my world, although for me, a lower throttle setting has proven extremely useful as well at times. I need less throw, but can't tilt the chute down or the discharge hits the banks and falls back onto the blower/drive/me. High chute elevation at lower throttle still clears the banks without excess distance.

(Folks keep bleating how I shouldn't do that either, FWIW . . . )


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I ran my 420 at 3800 for a while doing slush just to see how it'd do.
I decided to back it off to around 3650, 3800 seemed like I was pushing it but mine is a Predator not an LCT

I did most of my drier snow with it running at 2900-3000 rpm which gives me the original impeller speed. But for the slush etc, I liked the increased speed.


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## captainrob1 (Dec 16, 2018)

Davejb said:


> Found a used one (2016 model) on FB for $1000, been thinking about upgrading my Troy-Bilt 2410, is this a decent blower? Price seems good.
> 
> View attachment 188245


I have a 2015 24 Platinum SHO and love it….it whizzed thru the blizzard of Jan 30 2022 …..I did multiple driveways on my street…the fuel tank is small not I big deal for me…mine was $1600 I think new so a grand seems fair….the axle was moved forward a little after my model year for better balance but I have no issue with that anyway….


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

tadawson said:


> It's physics dude . . . . sorry you don't get it. I don't put excess strain and load on my stuff. Just because you got lucky doesn't mean you are smart - just like Russian roulette . . . all is fine until it is not fime . . . I choose to not go there, and apparently, the mfg's did also . . .


[email protected] lucky with 20 engines that everyone says blow [email protected] higher then 3600
been doing it 50 yrs
quit while you are behind


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Sorry, but Cletus getting lucky isn't something I'll ever bet on . . . Physics are fact, the rest is just hacking things and making excuses!


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## RickCoMatic (Dec 29, 2020)

Over-designed?


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

RickCoMatic said:


> Over-designed?


I'm not sure how this applies to any small engine or snow blower because I've never considered any of it over engineered.

But.








Overengineering - Wikipedia







en.wikipedia.org




.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

There is alway some margin in a design (over-design, if you will) to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, as well as wear and deterioration over a products life (in this case, rust, frictional wear, etc.), so in that regard, yes there is. Running a machine outside of specs eats into this margin, and what may be OK one one machine may fail on another, or may work early in a machines life but fail later on. Call me a fool if you will, but those that design and build these machines know what those limits and margins are, and set the machines up accordingly. (If they could claim higher perf than "the other brand" simply by running the engine faster, this gaining a market advantage at no cost, does anyone seriously think that they would not be doing that?). That, and if there is a defect and you overspeed and something does come apart, possibly resulting in injury, kiss any claim goodbye . . . .

So, at least as I look at it, I can document a lot of reasons "not to", but very few in favor (and no, "some guy has been lucky on a few machines for years" would not be considered a justitication . . . years of consistently being wrong does not suddenly make something right, at least in my view.)

I try to share my reasoning so others can understand how I see things and for discussion, but it seems that the other side of this discussion is far less willing or capable, responding more likely with arguments amounting to "but but but . . . GOT LUCKY!"

FWIW, Tim


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tadawson said:


> There is alway some martin in a design (over design, if you will) to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, as well as wear and detrioration over a products life (in this case, rust, frictional wear, efc.), so in that regard, yes there is. Running a machine outside of specs eats into this margin, and what may be OK one one machine may fail on another, or may work early is a machines life but fail later on. Call me a fool if you will, but hose that design and build these machines know what those limits and margins are, and set the machines up accordingly. (If they could claim higher perf than "the other brand" simply by running the engine faster, this gaining a market advantage at no cost, does anyone seriously think that they wouldnot be doing that?). That,and if there is a defect and you overspeed and so ething doescome apart, resulting in injury, kiss any claim goodbye . . . .
> 
> So, at least as I look at it, I can docume tt a lot of reasons "not to", but very few in favor (and no, "some guy has been lucky on a few machines for years" would not be considered a justitication . . . years of consistently being wrong does not auddenly make something right, at least in my view.)
> 
> ...


There's a lot of things on this forum I agree with.
And many I disagree with. But that's just how it goes in general, isn't it?

I never use fuel or oil additives, and have never had to and any minor issues I've had I've seen others have the same or worse while using all of their special stuff. I run E10 and have never dealt with any "ethanol issues". 

I personally see no reason to run an engine who's torque peaks at 2500 faster than 3600-3700 unloaded. Unless the manufacturer has specified to for some unknown reason to me. Every dyno I've seen of smaller engines shows the power drop off up higher unless modified.

My Predator 420 was running at 3800-ish unloaded I assume because I removed the air filter and am using a richer jet or it was just set wrong from the factory. When loaded down I saw it drop to 3200 RPM, the same as when set to 3600-ish which is exactly what I'd expect. That extra 200 rpm unloaded did absolutely nothing useful in my case. Maybe it helps on other engines, but I've never seen it on my own stuff.

*@tadawson Curious, if I have two identical engines, both running well within spec. One running at it's peak torque rpm wide open, say 2500 RPM continuously and another running much easier making half the torque but still producing the same exact power at 5000 rpm. Which one will wear faster?*


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## FLB (12 mo ago)

Holy crap. Is it just me or is it a lot easier reading a post when punctuation and capital letters are used appropriately? 

There might be some good opinions in some of these replies but I stopped reading because I didn't know where one point ended and another began. 

I'm new to the forum. For the most part the posts/replies have been helpful without being critical. I hope that is the norm here. Different opinions and ideas are fine but each of us has to accept that our particular opinions/ideas are not always correct. I think I learned that the first week I was married. 

Have fun, everyone.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

FLB said:


> Holy crap. Is it just me or is it a lot easier reading a post when punctuation and capital letters are used appropriately?
> 
> There might be some good opinions in some of these replies but I stopped reading because I didn't know where one point ended and another began.
> 
> ...


I'm sorry if my punctuation etc isn't the best.
I do try.


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## FLB (12 mo ago)

ChrisJ said:


> I'm sorry if my punctuation etc isn't the best.
> I do try.


Yours is fine. I don't want to name anyone but if you go through this thread, you might see some posts that are hard to follow. Or maybe it's just me.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

ChrisJ said:


> I'm sorry if my punctuation etc isn't the best.
> I do try.


its in poor taste for anyone to comment about spelling or sentence structure
said person might have a learning disability and suck at it and be doing the best they can
meanwhile back at the bat cave the person saying it cant find an idle screw


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

FLB said:


> Yours is fine. I don't want to name anyone but if you go through this thread, you might see some posts that are hard to follow. Or maybe it's just me.





FLB said:


> Yours is fine. I don't want to name anyone but if you go through this thread, you might see some posts that are hard to follow. Or maybe it's just me.


itisjustyou yaafp


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## FLB (12 mo ago)

At least you don't use all CAPS!! Bless your heart, 1132le.


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

FLB said:


> Holy crap. Is it just me or is it a lot easier reading a post when punctuation and capital letters are used appropriately?


Give it time. When you get older, these writing styles will start to make sense. 
On the other hand, Gen Z language will be harder to understand. Ever watch those Charlie Brown cartoons? All of the adult dialog are unintelliglbe, wa wa blah blah


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## Hogan773 (May 14, 2021)

After spending much time in forums i have learned to read through the posts of people who put down all their thoughts into one long run on sentence those people often have good content for sure usually they lack any punctuation or other natural sentence breaks like a comma or but or something similar still they sometimes do know their stuff that said it can also be hard to read when the post gets really long anyway we all have different styles for sure so back on topic we go have a good weekend people

😀


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

FLB said:


> At least you don't use all CAPS!! Bless your heart, 1132le.


anyone who gets upset at caps should also logoff the internenet
triple bless your heart
yaafp


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

I’ve run tecumseh flat heads at or over 3600rpms always. Havnt blown one up yet.

My gx390 on my Honda runs at 3800, I drop it to 3300-3400 in a couple spots where I need it to throw less far.

Just swapped a predator 420 on my snapper 1030, After I rejet it I’ll likely go 3800rpm as well, I can always dial it down. It already got a taller auger drive pulley and throwing distance is a solid 40ft in slush. Limiting factor with so much torque is the belt. I’ve scoured the internet for a Bando w800 SA-39 belt with zero luck.


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## Davejb (Jan 28, 2018)

To get this thread back on the rails, I picked it up today, looks larger sitting next to the Troy-Bilt 2410 even though the cut is the same.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Very nice.
That machine is like new, must have seen very little use.


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## Hogan773 (May 14, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> I’ve run tecumseh flat heads at or over 3600rpms always. Havnt blown one up yet.
> 
> My gx390 on my Honda runs at 3800, I drop it to 3300-3400 in a couple spots where I need it to throw less far.
> 
> Just swapped a predator 420 on my snapper 1030, After I rejet it I’ll likely go 3800rpm as well, I can always dial it down. It already got a taller auger drive pulley and throwing distance is a solid 40ft in slush. Limiting factor with so much torque is the belt. I’ve scoured the internet for a Bando w800 SA-39 belt with zero luck.


I liked the prior post mentioning the torque curve peaking at 2500 rpm

I think I will just leave mine at factory rather than goose it higher. If it settles in at the same RPM under load anyway then what is the point of having it run faster under light or no load? Everything wears a little faster and gets more physical stress, and the wheels drive faster, but so what. It is when it gets into load that matters and there it sounds like it will still settle in where it wants to.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Hogan773 said:


> I liked the prior post mentioning the torque curve peaking at 2500 rpm
> 
> I think I will just leave mine at factory rather than goose it higher. If it settles in at the same RPM under load anyway then what is the point of having it run faster under light or no load? Everything wears a little faster and gets more physical stress, and the wheels drive faster, but so what. It is when it gets into load that matters and there it sounds like it will still settle in where it wants to.


1st peak torque is almost 2800 on tec flattys
the lct is 3050
he didnt say it drops to 3300 3400 he drops it to that with his throttle
1st you need the correct info
not bs conjucture
nobody can say at this rpm it wears more or they dont
if ive run 20 motors at 3750 3800 rpm and they were 29 yrs old some 39 yrs old before they got turned up and they are now 42 yrs old and still burn no oil and start 1/2 a pull says the wear conjecture is bs
leave yours where you want
proper info helps


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## Hogan773 (May 14, 2021)

1132le said:


> 1st peak torque is almost 2800 on tec flattys
> the lct is 3050
> he didnt say it drops to 3300 3400 he drops it to that with his throttle
> 1st you need the correct info
> ...


Ok so what performance benefit do I get for the extra speed? Faster impeller speed and faster throw? If the engine still loads down at XYZ rpm and you move to the other governor hole are you saying the engine will now settle down at a higher RPM under the similar load than it did before?


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Hogan773 said:


> Ok so what performance benefit do I get for the extra speed? Faster impeller speed and faster throw? If the engine still loads down at XYZ rpm and you move to the other governor hole are you saying the engine will now settle down at a higher RPM under the similar load than it did before?


1st you do not know where the rpm came set new most are low buy a 13 dollar tach
3350 to 3600 is the range most come set factory
if its 3350 you get about 250 rpm from the switch
you have great power to bucket size already 3600 is the norm setting
impeller kit and you are set
you wanna try it moved go ahead can always change it back
you might drop 250 rpm heavy load
if you read what ariens says the sho throws farther also moves more snow then non sho
non sho imp rpm is [email protected]
sho is [email protected] 3600 
you get about 25ish to 30 imp rpm increase per 100 rpm
if your sho is @ 3350 rpm it has about the same impeller rpm as a deluxe thats set to 3600
kinda defeats the purpose of having a sho
what do they say some people do some people dont
some people race some read motor trend
those that cant play teach
buy a tach/hr meter great to have


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## Hogan773 (May 14, 2021)

1132le said:


> 1st you do not know where the rpm came set new most are low buy a 13 dollar tach
> 3350 to 3600 is the range most come set factory
> if its 3350 you get about 250 rpm from the switch
> you have great power to bucket size already 3600 is the norm setting
> ...


I have "just" a Deluxe by the way, not SHO (I know I am on SHO thread but the question applies to any machine)


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

Two thumbs up Davejb, nice find!


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

ChrisJ said:


> There's a lot of things on this forum I agree with.
> And many I disagree with. But that's just how it goes in general, isn't it?
> 
> I never use fuel or oil additives, and have never had to and any minor issues I've had I've seen others have the same or worse while using all of their special stuff. I run E10 and have never dealt with any "ethanol issues".
> ...


Frictional losses are proportional to the square of the speed, so at that level, yes, higher speeds would be expected to wear more, coupled with just more part on part motion. To get the same power at lower RPM, though, I would think would be higer pressures on the bearings, so while I would still expect higher speeds to wear faster, it may well not be as fast as first glance would indicate. Since higher engine speeds result in higher speeds everywhere else, I would expect higher wear in the entire machine as well.


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