# 25yr 10HP Tecumseh RIP



## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

Hello Everyone

Firstly Merry Christmas to everyone and wishing you all the best!!!

Well im from the Greater Toronto Area, we just got some snow and pulled out my 25 yr old 10 hp blower to clear the driveway and a few of my neighbors as well ( checked the oil as i always do prior to starting and it was within the two lines perhaps a mm or so from the full line )

Second driveway in , i heard a LOUD BANG!!! and the started to leak oil . And to my horror saw a it blew a rod. ( not sure why, it wasn't low on oil , and ive maintained this thing religiously ) it wasn't over rev'ed either..

Should i just replace the engine ? Any members in the GTA know of a good place to order a new engine?

Overall the bucket is in good shape , as i did maintain it well as you can see from the attached pics
Model Chieftain 28" 
Engine 10HP Tecumseh HMSK100 engine with electric start

Thank you for the help !!!


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

Welcome! What brand blower?model# etc.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

welcome to the SBF

your post got flagged by the antispam software and had to wait to be approved . did you hear it knocking or was it just a sudden boom? 

new motor or a good excuse to say to the other half we need a brand new machine
hang tight till a few members from around you chime in as they will know what's a better seller in Canada or maybe even have a running 10 hp tech


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

I'm not in the Toronto area, but I'm guessing there are many many used tecumseh engines out there that would bolt right on, at a fair price. Yes you could bolt on another brand, such as the ones Princess Auto sells, but they are not "winter engines". Myself, I'd stay tecumseh, or just look for a new machine..


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

RAOUL225 said:


> Welcome! What brand blower?model# etc.


Thank you !!

It was a Chieftain 28" unit i recall the sticker is long gone . it has a 10HP Tecumseh HMSK100 engine.

No idea what caused the engine to go , as the oil was good used it a month or go when we had some snow.

Thank you


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

Awesome Forum!!!

Not sure why my post go targeted But glad that is sorted.

I didn't hear any abnormal sounds, was using it in low gear as i was cleaning the snowbank and BANG .. sputtered and puked oil ..

As you can see overall the blower is in decent shape considering its age. Its built like a tank, thicker than most units i see today.. 

I've taken the engine off already and when the Rod gave it took out the electric starter motor as well. 

I ran 5W-30 Mobil synthetic for last 10 yrs or so.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

It is hard to know what caused it to blew up. If you have a lot of carbon deposit, it can get hot and cause destinations (another reason why I used 91 octane, but I do not know if there is any benefit to it). I have also seemed people putting SAE 30 in their snow blowers instead of 5W30. Sticky throttle and governor linkages can also cause your engine to rev up high and break the connecting rod.

Best practice is to store your snow blower indoor, check oil and warm your engine up below used.

If you are unlucky, just replace the engine. I have a Tecumseh engine and I do not worry about it blowing up at all. I have always wanted a more powerful engine.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

tool_junkie said:


> Awesome Forum!!!
> 
> Not sure why my post go targeted But glad that is sorted.
> 
> ...


it most likely got flagged because of the photos' and being a first post ,i was hoping you were not waiting to see it for long thinking what happened 

can you see or find the connecting rod? did the rod bolts break or come loose, while not overly common it is something that happens to old techs the rod fails and comes out from under the starter motor


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

captchas said:


> it most likely got flagged because of the photos' and being a first post ,i was hoping you were not waiting to see it for long thinking what happened
> 
> can you see or find the connecting rod? did the rod bolts break or come loose, while not overly common it is something that happens to old techs the rod fails and comes out from under the starter motor


Oh sorry about that, I did post in the new member forum too, i should of done that first apologies

It seems the Rod Cap gave way as i managed to fish it out , there was plenty of oil in the bottom end .


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## Mortten (Jan 31, 2020)

Sorry to see that happen. That’s a good sized window.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

Welcome aboard. The ease with which you will be able to replace the engine or repower is predicated on whether or not this is a single or dual shaft (PTO) Snow King engine. I could not tell from the images. If it is a dual shaft, then long blocks will be unavailable. Used engines may be around, but they are an unknown quantity. Repowering will also be tricky because the second shaft powers the drive wheels. It has been done by certain members but requires modifying the transmission. 

Single shaft - well, then you have options. HTH.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Single or dual shaft, that is the question.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

It's a single shaft as both auger and drive wheel belt run off a single shaft .


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

I would go with a POWERMORE ENGINE because most of the 10HP Tecumseh were replaced by those.I do have this wonderful quiet engine on my 30" MTD with no issues at all for the past 13 years.


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

These guys designed the POWERMORE engines on MTD built blower. https://lctusa.com/product/stormforce-369/


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Single shaft... I’d ditch it and upgrade to a harbor freight 300cc clone, minimum. The powermore 357cc on my father 28” mtd has been rock solid for a decade....


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

These Tecumseh engines use splash lubrication only. It is hard for oil to get in those journal bearings. If you have oil sludge built up like Captchas mention earlier in another post, it is a dead sentence to these engines.

Change oil frequently on these engines, and warm them up before used. Start them up at low rpm.


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

It looks like the bearing is pretty badly scored, like it ran out of oil at one time as I had a 6hp tec do the same thing and lots of oil in the base.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> Single shaft... I’d ditch it and upgrade to a harbor freight 300cc clone, minimum. The powermore 357cc on my father 28” mtd has been rock solid for a decade....


 Unfortunately here in Canada we dont have a Harbor Freight. We do have a similar store called Princess Auto

Im looking at the following:



https://www.princessauto.com/en/propoint-gas-engines/product/PA1000001091?skuId=8628265



I need to remove the pulley on the MSK100 and measure the output shaft diameter , im hoping its 1" so i can use use the 15HP unit


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

Johnny G1 said:


> It looks like the bearing is pretty badly scored, like it ran out of oil at one time as I had a 6hp tec do the same thing and lots of oil in the base.


I know my Pops in the past ran it with low oil once.. So i was probably on borrowed time , but i got a good 25 + on the unit .


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

tool_junkie said:


> Hello Everyone
> 
> Firstly Merry Christmas to everyone and wishing you all the best!!!
> 
> ...


Merry Christmas!
My, what a hole!
You could've heard that over your stereo headphones, I'd bet!


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

Rooskie said:


> Merry Christmas!
> My, what a hole!
> You could've heard that over your stereo headphones, I'd bet!


Actual it wasnt as loud as i thought it would be it ... it did go Bang and then puked oil .. Mind you im deaf anyway lol


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

might be best to just shop for a used engine or a new used machine. $400 is a big dent in a nice used machine especially if you don't mind wrenching on them. there is a lot of older machines around for sale for about $150 or so that likely just need some carb work but most people just don't want them because of how old they are.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

tool_junkie said:


> I know my Pops in the past ran it with low oil once.. So i was probably on borrowed time , but i got a good 25 + on the unit .


That and 25 years - I don't think it owes you anything. Repower and you'll have yourself a beast.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

tool_junkie said:


> Unfortunately here in Canada we dont have a Harbor Freight. We do have a similar store called Princess Auto
> 
> Im looking at the following:
> 
> ...


a ten horse tech has a 1 inch shaft, what you need to match is the shaft length to the side cover flange bolt thread in the crank the centerline from the base of the motor to the center of the crank can be off , longer or shorter belt as needed, how it bolts down is also nothing remove the bolts and move as needed use longer if needed

yes that rod looks like it went dry, it was seizing to the crank depositing metal as it locked up before breaking . i would bet a small amount of sludge is the cause, 25 years it did you real good


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

tool_junkie said:


> I know my Pops in the past ran it with low oil once.. So i was probably on borrowed time , but i got a good 25 + on the unit .


Well, if it was scored before, then you can't blame it all on Tecumseh. You got good used out of it. It was like a screw with damaged threads. It had enough.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

only takes 1 min to do big damage in a splash oiled motor fact you got 25 more years out of unreal.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

captchas said:


> only takes 1 min to do big damage in a splash oiled motor fact you got 25 more years out of unreal.


I did maintain it well full tune up prior to season oil, plug and carb adjustment if needed. But i guess it was a ticking time bomb


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

captchas said:


> a ten horse tech has a 1 inch shaft, what you need to match is the shaft length to the side cover flange bolt thread in the crank the centerline from the base of the motor to the center of the crank can be off , longer or shorter belt as needed, how it bolts down is also nothing remove the bolts and move as needed use longer if needed
> 
> yes that rod looks like it went dry, it was seizing to the crank depositing metal as it locked up before breaking . i would bet a small amount of sludge is the cause, 25 years it did you real good



Good to know as i googled it and it was stating it could be 3/4" too.. but ill measure it in the morning and let everyone know. 

So the 15HP unit wont be an issue with this unit then ?


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

tool_junkie said:


> I did maintain it well full tune up prior to season oil plug and carb adjustment if needed. But i guess it was a ticking time bomb


You did all the right things. That is a lot more than some people do.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

I would put a HF engine on that and go blow some more snow with the fine machine.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

Well the shaft is 3/4" ( just measured it ) if i go the 15HP engine on it i need to source 1" id pulleys.. 

So am i stuck with 7 HP replacement ( remember im in Canada)


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

I blew up an 8hp Tecumseh just like in your pic above.....right behind the electric start as usual......with mine it popped when I was climbing a hard snowbank.....I was pushing the handlebars down and had the bucket up as high as I could get it.......then pop.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

tool_junkie said:


> Well the shaft is 3/4" ( just measured it ) if i go the 15HP engine on it i need to source 1" id pulleys..
> 
> So am i stuck with 7 HP replacement ( remember im in Canada)


I bet the HF 212cc will blow as much snow as the 10hp Tecumseh does and it has a 3/4" shaft on it.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

Pauleastend63 said:


> I blew up an 8hp Tecumseh just like in your pic above.....right behind the electric start as usual......with mine it popped when I was climbing a hard snowbank.....I was pushing the handlebars down and had the bucket up as high as I could get it.......then pop.



what did you do for a replacement engine ?


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## laser3kw (Feb 11, 2018)

10HP Tecumseh Engine Short Block link 
here is a link to a possible short block. I rescued a 8hp Tecumseh that kicked the rod same as yours. Popped a hole right behind the starter.The basic short block should work, you'll have to swap flywheel, ignition and carb from your existing unit.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

laser3kw said:


> 10HP Tecumseh Engine Short Block link
> here is a link to a possible short block. I rescued a 8hp Tecumseh that kicked the rod same as yours. Popped a hole right behind the starter.The basic short block should work, you'll have to swap flywheel, ignition and carb from your existing unit.


Thanks Laser3kw, with the shipping and duties it may not be worth it .. prior to duties im already 300+US.


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## laser3kw (Feb 11, 2018)

tool_junkie said:


> Thanks Laser3kw, with the shipping and duties it may not be worth it .. prior to duties im already 300+US.


could you find something similar on Ebay ca (canada


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

laser3kw said:


> could you find something similar on Ebay ca (canada


been searching since this morning ....


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

tool_junkie said:


> what did you do for a replacement engine ?


At that time my warranty had ran out......but the same thing happened to my brother and he had extended warranty. He decided to upgrade right away before he was notified he was going to get a brand new engine......I bought his complete old blower off of him which was the same model as mine.....mine was in better shape so I bolted the new engine onto mine.


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

tool_junkie said:


> Well the shaft is 3/4" ( just measured it ) if i go the 15HP engine on it i need to source 1" id pulleys..
> 
> So am i stuck with 7 HP replacement ( remember im in Canada)


Is there a way for us Canadians to get a Predator HF engine here in Canada?......the 208 Predator would work good for what your looking for in my opinion.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

tool_junkie said:


> Good to know as i googled it and it was stating it could be 3/4" too.. but ill measure it in the morning and let everyone know.
> 
> So the 15HP unit wont be an issue with this unit then ?


you may want to take the pulleys of or at least pull the bolt and measure the shaft size. if it is a 10hp is should have a 1" shaft also. if you do end up needing some 1" shaft pulleys and are not in a big rush and willing to travel to orangeville i can see what i have. i got a parts machine. i would even consider selling the whole engine if you wanted to try make it run and don't mind swapping parts over. it is a 10hp but i have no history on it and it would need some part installed to try making it run. i also got a 8hp that ran but would also need work but i know it was running.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Pauleastend63 said:


> Is there a way for us Canadians to get a Predator HF engine here in Canada?......the 208 Predator would work good for what your looking for in my opinion.


What about the Princess Auto Powerfist engines?


https://www.princessauto.com/en/powerfist-gas-engines/product/PA1000001089?skuId=8445405


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> you may want to take the pulleys of or at least pull the bolt and measure the shaft size. if it is a 10hp is should have a 1" shaft also. if you do end up needing some 1" shaft pulleys and are not in a big rush and willing to travel to orangeville i can see what i have. i got a parts machine. i would even consider selling the whole engine if you wanted to try make it run and don't mind swapping parts over. it is a 10hp but i have no history on it and it would need some part installed to try making it run. i also got a 8hp that ran but would also need work but i know it was running.


Thank you CrazzyWolfie i may take you up on the offer of the 1"bore diameter pulleys. 

I actually did remove the pulleys and did measure the pulley shaft and its 3/4". 

If you could check that would be great!!!, ill pm you on the side.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

tabora said:


> What about the Princess Auto Powerfist engines?
> 
> 
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/powerfist-gas-engines/product/PA1000001089?skuId=8445405


Thanks Tabora!! 

Ive been looking at the following :
https://www.princessauto.com/en/propoint-gas-engines/product/PA1000001091 in the 15HP sizing as the blown unit was a 10HP unit.


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

tabora said:


> What about the Princess Auto Powerfist engines?
> 
> 
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/powerfist-gas-engines/product/PA1000001089?skuId=8445405


Do the powerfist engines have a good rep tabora?.......I'll have to break it down and do some color match work, that blue would look butt ugly on my JD, lol.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Pauleastend63 said:


> that blue would look butt ugly on my JD


Maybe better suited to your Yamahas up there? 🇨🇦


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

tabora said:


> Maybe better suited to your Yamahas up there? 🇨🇦


So true, so so blue.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

tool_junkie said:


> Ive been looking at the following :
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/propoint-gas-engines/product/PA1000001091 in the 15HP sizing as the blown unit was a 10HP unit.





Pauleastend63 said:


> I'll have to break it down and do some color match work, that blue would look butt ugly on my JD, lol.


And those Pro.Point engines are basic black (and silver); goes with anything!


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Synthetic oil for these engines, and frequent oil changes! I change my oil every season and only use the best synthetic. So far I haven't had any problems and I've opened up three of these so far to replace cranks for different shaft sizes. These are great engines if they're maintained but like someone said, sludge is a killer for these. I've actually considered ordering a billet rod as they do make them for this particular sized engine for racing and that should certainly hold up to substantial abuse.









6286 Tecumseh HM100 3.95 Billet Rod







www.arcracing.com





For those of you who really want to beat on an old Tecumseh. This should fit the 8HP too.


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## Spring1898 (Jan 1, 2013)

420 cc's would be overkill for your unit. Not that its a bad thing. But it will be much heavier than your outgoing engine. Probably close to 10kg
The stock Tecumseh was a flathead 318cc engine. Any engine similar in size with a newer OHV engine would be notably more potent than the off coming engine.

Also check ebay, you can often find new take offs, or crate engines for cheaper than you can find in a local store, if you don't mind forgoing a warranty. But $349 for a 420cc engine isn't a bad price at all.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

Spring1898 said:


> 420 cc's would be overkill for your unit. Not that its a bad thing. But it will be much heavier than your outgoing engine. Probably close to 10kg
> The stock Tecumseh was a flathead 318cc engine. Any engine similar in size with a newer OHV engine would be notably more potent than the off coming engine.
> 
> Also check ebay, you can often find new take offs, or crate engines for cheaper than you can find in a local store, if you don't mind forgoing a warranty. But $349 for a 420cc engine isn't a bad price at all.


The machine already was heavy with the previous flathead engine. the 420CC is 80lbs add another pound or so for fuel . Didnt think about that....

Should i opt for the 208 CC engine ?

Thanks again for everyone's help!!


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Tecumseh's were very well known for weak connecting rods. 
Even with the best of care and frequent oil changes with premium grade synthetic oils, they still broke.
The metal quality was not of a good material, the rods were rather weak to begin with.
The best thing for any Tecumseh was to replace the connecting rod, even from brand new, with a better heavy duty rod.
The billet rods were some of the best rods for them as another poster listed.
Those engines were very common on racing applications with the billet rods, and those rods worked very well for homeowner use.
The original Tecumseh rods had a thin "Beam" section on them and were noted for stretching and cracking to the point of breaking apart. The bearing caps were also a weak point in them, they were noted for cracking and "Squishing" were the bolt heads contacted them, causing the caps to become loose, and with the reciprocal motion they would "Oval" out the bearing and break the caps off from the main rod.
Many times the bolts would back themselves out and/or break off due to the shock load of the reciprocal motion that they encountered.


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## laser3kw (Feb 11, 2018)

tool_junkie said:


> The machine already was heavy with the previous flathead engine. the 420CC is 80lbs add another pound or so for fuel . Didn't think about that....
> 
> Should i opt for the 208 CC engine ?
> 
> Thanks again for everyone's help!!


If it is a currently a 10 horse power, I would opted for the biggest motor that with fit and maintane foot print and shaft height. Take a look at a 301cc / 8hp , but the typical 301cc has a 1.00" shaft. Another thing to consider when retrofitting a off the shelf engine is they are typically outfitted for summer use.You will have to find a suitable air intake and heat housing for winter use. If you stick to a engine similar to what is coming out on recent machines (clone types), you can buy the parts off many sources and adapt it to your engine. I believe there is a thread here somewhere outlining the process.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

laser3kw said:


> If it is a currently a 10 horse power, I would opted for the biggest motor that with fit and maintane foot print and shaft height. Take a look at a 301cc / 8hp , but the typical 301cc has a 1.00" shaft. Another thing to consider when retrofitting a off the shelf engine is they are typically outfitted for summer use.You will have to find a suitable air intake and heat housing for winter use. If you stick to a engine similar to what is coming out on recent machines (clone types), you can buy the parts off many sources and adapt it to your engine. I believe there is a thread here somewhere outlining the process.


thanks

once the shops open up around here I’ll call about see what stock they have .
The princesses auto option for 420 cc is over 80 lbs which is much heavier than what I pulled off.


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## Spring1898 (Jan 1, 2013)

You will find summer engines in the 308cc range, you may also find some winter engine take offs in the 342cc range, which I think would be the sweet spot of increasing displacement vs weight, and still come well in under the 420cc range.
the 208/212cc unit I think would be a bit underpowered, or at least not get up to the potential of the machine.

Here are 2 that I had found before. These are already set up for winter use.
First is a 291cc engine, that would probably be close to what you had in the Tecumseh
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/8-5HP-LCT-P...860274?hash=item4226446db2:g:pbAAAOSwJ7Bf0UUC
Second is the larger 342cc





10 6hp Briggs Snow Blower Engine 3 4 D Shaft Electric Start 21M114 0127 E1 for sale | eBay


Find great deals on eBay for 10 6hp Briggs Snow Blower Engine 3 4 D Shaft Electric Start 21M114 0127 E1. Shop with confidence.



www.ebay.ca





The downside is that these are fixed RPM machines if that matters to you. Kind of like a lawnmower without a throttle adjust. They also probably don't have warranty except directly through the manufacturer.
The plus side is that they are set up for winter use with the appropriate covers and electric start, although the lct is supposedly set up for Euro use. They also have 3/4" shafts so you can reuse your pulleys


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

thank you , problem being located in Canada most of these sellers won’t ship here ( never understood that)

will keep searching , will keep searching see what options I have


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

To add to the OP's situation with the rod breaking. I had the original engine on the Searsasaurus die in very much the same way the other year. Regular maintenance, recent oil change and up to snuff. Started it up and had it a little higher than idle, warming up while I moved the car. As I was getting into the car, heard a pop and it died. I found a nice hole in the side and a broken rod. I mean gee whiz, it was only around 50 years old. Parts do fatigue with age, so it was a good run.
I found another parts machine with a 10HP, I had to make a shaft extension as it was about 1/2" too short, bolted it up and it's been running every since.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

> Tecumseh's were very well known for weak connecting rods.


Yeah, only lasting 25 [or 50 years] is shameful..... 

Seriously if they are so bad why are running Tecumsehs all over craigslist?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

deezlfan said:


> Yeah, only lasting 25 [or 50 years] is shameful.....
> 
> Seriously if they are so bad why are running Tecumsehs all over craigslist?


i don't know about your area but around here it is almost cheaper to buy a snowblower for the engine than it is to just buy a engine. i have been seeing a lot of people asking $150 for a 8hp and 10hp engines by themselves. i really don't get how they can ask that much but i guess it is still a bit cheaper than a new machine if your machine is in good shape.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

This forum is awesome!!

thank you all again

I just found a guy selling me an used engine 250 Cdn. Same style , i figure why not

anything I should look for? Besides a hole in the casing


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

see if you can have him fire it up listen for knocking at idle 
best of luck


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

captchas said:


> see if you can have him fire it up listen for knocking at idle
> best of luck


Thank you !!!


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## Fred9 (Dec 21, 2013)

Of course we will want to know "the rest of the story"

Good luck!!!


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

to me $250 for a used 10hp Tecumseh is way too much money. they are gas guzzling engine. you are better off finding something newer or just buying a completely new snowblower. if your going to buy an engine for good money get an OHV engine. i wouldn't touch a Tecumseh unless it was $100 or less. they are bad on gas. i burnt through 1/2 tank this morning just doing part of my driveway. i can do my driveway plus most of the neighbors driveways with a ohv machine and still have gas to spare.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

I just picked it up.. maybe I paid too much , but I figure it’s cheaper than a new machine and I helped out a fellow snowblower enthusiast. 

If I get a few more years out of this one , I’m ok with that.

He fired it up and ran fine loud , no smoke or knocking. It didn’t have a view window on the side either


I’ll set it up in the morning. And I’ll fill you in


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I noticed a theme with a couple stories here and that was their engines blew a connecting rod with trying to clear a snow bank. Remember, you should keep your machine as level as possible. When your tilt them back you can starve them for oil since all the oil runs to the back up the engine and the splasher can no longer dip into the oil. Similar issues can happen with roto tillers and tilling too deep or lawn mowers on a hill. If you must tip them make sure to only do it in brief increments before leveling them back off to get the oil flowing again. No oil plus the heaviest of snow at the same time is not good.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

Shryp said:


> I noticed a theme with a couple stories here and that was their engines blew a connecting rod with trying to clear a snow bank. Remember, you should keep your machine as level as possible. When your tilt them back you can starve them for oil since all the oil runs to the back up the engine and the splasher can no longer dip into the oil. Similar issues can happen with roto tillers and tilling too deep or lawn mowers on a hill. If you must tip them make sure to only do it in brief increments before leveling them back off to get the oil flowing again. No oil plus the heaviest of snow at the same time is not good.


i was cutting into the snowbank parallel if that makes sense I try to keep the machine level as much as I can. As I know tilting could impact the machine 

Once the weather gets better I’ll be tearing into the blown engine to see other damage


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## laser3kw (Feb 11, 2018)

tool_junkie said:


> I just picked it up.. maybe I paid too much , but I figure it’s cheaper than a new machine and I helped out a fellow snowblower enthusiast.
> 
> If I get a few more years out of this one , I’m ok with that.
> 
> ...


 Pics! document your progress for future reference.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

laser3kw said:


> Pics! document your progress for future reference.


Gentlemen!!!!

The Thunder God is back!!!!!!! Like a great fighter it went down but it didn’t stay down!!!!









I want to say thank you to everyone!! This forum is awesome!!!
I will be still looking for a new engine at one point But for now Zeus is up and running. 






big thanks !!! Wishing you all a happy new year and stay safe!!!!!!


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## laser3kw (Feb 11, 2018)

Congrats! another Christmas miracle


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## tkrotchko (Jan 5, 2011)

RAOUL225 said:


> These guys designed the POWERMORE engines on MTD built blower. https://lctusa.com/product/stormforce-369/


I read the blurb, and they look interesting, but at the moment it appears that nobody has one in stock (at least online).

--Tom


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## amuller (Jan 3, 2016)

Around here (Minnesota) it's actually easy to get a $50 snowblower with a usable engine in this season. People can't get one started, give up and buy a new one, then want the old one out of the garage and put it on Craigslist....


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

amuller said:


> Around here (Minnesota) it's actually easy to get a $50 snowblower with a usable engine in this season. People can't get one started, give up and buy a new one, then want the old one out of the garage and put it on Craigslist....


Not here in Toronto area 

most under 200 are rust buckets the rest are pricey


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i don't know about that. i see a lot of older machines for sale that still look to be in pretty good condition but most likely just need carb work. about a month ago there was lots of $50-100 machines that most likely needed carb work but a lot of them looked like nice machines. i was tempted to buy the 1 machine because i could see much money someone had spent on it but i know it would be a hard sale if i wanted to flip it. most people don't want the old machines even if they are in good shape and build better than the new stuff. it is funny enough that it seems like people are asking good money for the rust buckets. i have seen some for $200+ that look really rough.


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## tool_junkie (Dec 25, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> i don't know about that. i see a lot of older machines for sale that still look to be in pretty good condition but most likely just need carb work. about a month ago there was lots of $50-100 machines that most likely needed carb work but a lot of them looked like nice machines. i was tempted to buy the 1 machine because i could see much money someone had spent on it but i know it would be a hard sale if i wanted to flip it. most people don't want the old machines even if they are in good shape and build better than the new stuff. it is funny enough that it seems like people are asking good money for the rust buckets. i have seen some for $200+ that look really rough.



I'll keep looking , if you see a decent machine let me know as my sister needs a machine.
Thanks


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if this is still available and works i think it might be a good deal. definitely looks like a nice quality machine and it is less than 15 years old. 





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