# 1971 ariens 24" 10000 series - pulley size?



## jdsmn21 (Dec 30, 2015)

Hi guys - I'm out of town, so I can't measure. Sounds like father in law finally blew up the old Tecumseh on my blower. There's a harbor freight and a tractor supply in the town I'm in, so I can get a predator 212 and a pulley. Wondering what size pulley I need to get for this blower? (Other than 3/4 shaft size...)


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Use the Original One From the Tecumseh.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Is there something wrong with the one you already have on it ??


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## jdsmn21 (Dec 30, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Is there something wrong with the one you already have on it ??


I figured it would just be easier than trying to pull the old one. Plus I also need the adapter sleeve cause the Tech has a 1" shaft.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

You have to be there to physically swap engines so why not just measure?


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## jdsmn21 (Dec 30, 2015)

dhazelton said:


> You have to be there to physically swap engines so why not just measure?


I live in a small town, but am in the city 3 hours away that has a HF for work.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Both my older 24 inch Ariens with Tecumseh had 3/4 shaft .... you sure yours is 1" ?


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## jdsmn21 (Dec 30, 2015)

oneacer said:


> Both my older 24 inch Ariens with Tecumseh had 3/4 shaft .... you sure yours is 1" ?


No, not entirely. I'm just basing what I read on here. People refer to buying a sleeve on eBay to allow the original 1" id pulley to fit the 3/4” of the Predator.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

If the 10000 series engine is stock, then I'm pretty sure your shaft is 3/4. the original pulley will come off with PB Blast and a couple of tie rod forks.


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

Use the original pulley, they are not that hard to come off. Worst case penetrating oil and a puller and maybe a little heat, but they usually arent that hard to get off. Their are two allen bolts you have to loosen/remove. You can rent a puller if necessary at an auto parts store for a deposit which you get back when you return it. Your 1971 Tecumseh engine has a 3/4 shaft, I already put a Predator on two of those machine's. So your all set, all you need is the engine. The one other thing you will have to do is cut the old mounting bolts off the base and drill thru them and add longer bolts, about 1.5 inches long. Everything else falls into place. You can also order an adjustable main jet for the Predator which makes it runs smooth without choke in the cold air. Remove the air filter from the airbox, you wont need it for snow removal. I recommend you get the hemi Predator made by Loncin, its a slightly better engine than the non hemi. The hemi has an aluminum OHV valve cover. You will be able to see it when you look thru the carrry hole in the box at the store to see if its a hemi or a non hemi.
You will have to cut the chute rod get an extra length of it and use two universal joints to divert the chute rod around the OHV and up to the user. While your at it add a taller chute and that snowblower will throw snow as good as any modern snowblower, better.


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## jdsmn21 (Dec 30, 2015)

FearlessFront said:


> ...]


Thank you! I'm up and running! The studs - I had luck with a bfh...threaded the nut on and gave a couple whacks and they fell through. I already ordered the adjustable jet, and that worked slick. I lucked out with the pulley - didn't even need pb blaster to loosen! The chute - I mounted it low with an eyebolt to the left handle for now. It's inconvenient, but we got 16 inches here in MN yesterday and I was pressed to get blowing. (didn't exactly follow the proper break-in procedure...)

It's amazing the power it has now! And so smooth and quiet, easy to start - speechless!

I still need to fix the belt cover, and maybe wire up a kill switch, and the impeller mod, and I'll be set! Oh, and the friction wheel - I'm hoping that sucker holds out till spring...


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

I heard of people being able to knock the old studs out before. I tried it and they were not budging, I hit one so hard the entire base started to get a dent in it and the stud still refused to come out that way, so I just cut them down and drilled them out, easy enough, you got lucky. 
I haven't needed to add an impeller mod yet, but I added the taller chute and that works wonders.
The belt cover should just bolt right on.
I had my chute rod down low like that for the first year too. Than I finally diverted it up and that was the best thing I did, it saved my back big time, no more bending down to turn the chute. My back and hips would hurt for a good day or two after using it with all that bending, so it really made a huge difference. Its was also the most difficult thing to upgrade, cutting the rods to the right length's and drilling the holes to hold in the u-joints but totally worth it in the end.
Again I totally agree, it is amazing how much power and how dependable those Predator engines are. 
I just replaced the friction disk on that machine a week ago, its a real job. I made a video to help people with that in the future, because it is one of the most difficult friction disks to change.


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## jdsmn21 (Dec 30, 2015)

I hit the studs 45 degrees one way, then the other way then they knocked through. The first one I broke off and had to drill out.

The belt guard cracked off where the bolt goes through. I'll have to get some JB Weld first.

That linkage you made for the chute swivel is interesting - where do you get U joints like that? Can a guy Fab something like that without a welder?

Thanks for the videos.... That friction disk looks like a warm weather project!


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