# Starting to regret starting this project...



## bbwb (Oct 25, 2018)

Well, now that I have the new Ariens Hydro Pro 28, I being the wonderful dad that I am, decided to give my 1028 Deluxe (924116) blower to my daughter for her use. Well in looking at it I started by installing a new scrapper bar as the old one had seen better days. When doing this, I found the skid shoes worn (did not want to flip around as they are rusty and ugly...so ordered new heavy duty ones. Went to install and found that the impeller bearing is SHOT. Must be a 1/4" worth of play. Wheel bearings have slop in them as well, so let's order this now. Because I have this torn all the way down, I might as well replace the aluminum gear/shaft assembly with a new cast iron one as being OCD about doing this right got to keep going right?
Fast forward one week, the parts arrive. Started the replacement today, and could not get the impeller flange off. Heated, soaked beat and then put the puller on it (yes set screws were out) and broke off an ear...another part to order.
Had to cut it off and chisel the chunks off. 
So because this part of the project is stalled until new parts arrive, let's work on the impeller to shaft. I COULD NOT GET THE ROLL PINS OUT FOR LOVE OR MONEY. 
Again, used heat, penetrating oil etc...and beat the living crap out it....bent two punches and broke another. Then thought about drilling them out...three broken bits later, I give up.
Well, back to the order desk...new flange and impeller to go with the other stuff.
So far I am about $500 into this project....the motor better not crap out after all of this.:crying:
Sheeesh!


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Acetone and trans fluid and I never looked back. Some heat as well. Remember to let stuff soak in for a while as well. I'll pass by a project give it a squirt and a stank eye stare then repeat for a day or two. Haven't had a bolt, fastener, or bearing not come off after this method. Good luck and happy project


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

yep, 50/50 mix of acetone and atf is a wonderful penetrating oil. as good as any.


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## Ian Ariens 924 (Dec 22, 2015)

Couple of thoughts,
I have had great luck with oxy acetylene heating roll pins,if not, Is there a machine shop nearby,they can press out those roll pins.
Also see if there is any used parts around, I buy new bearings,but Ariens flanges and pulleys are a little expensive for my budget projects.

Good luck


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## bbwb (Oct 25, 2018)

Yep tried the acetone and tranny fluid. Also tried the Mopar penetrant...no luck even with heat and time. Usually this will work, but man I have never come across something so stubborn.
At this point, I figured if I can't get the roll pins out, the impeller to shaft is a lost cause shop press or not.


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

Hello bbwb,

Do you own a set of roll pin punches??? you can buy an low cost set of them. I purchased mine at the local agway but I would imagine that they have them at harbor freight as well.


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## legarem (Sep 9, 2017)

leonz said:


> Hello bbwb,
> 
> Do you own a set of roll pin punches??? you can buy an low cost set of them. I purchased mine at the local agway but I would imagine that they have them at harbor freight as well.



+1 In my case, it didn't work until I got them.


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## bbwb (Oct 25, 2018)

Yes sir, had the drift pin punches...bent two of them, and broke two. I was starting with a 20 oz ballpeen hammer and then moved to a 3 lb maul. I have never had roll pins that would not budge like these. With all of the beating they would not even come out a 1/16th of an inch.
Just for fun, I tried to pound them out the other way with the same results.
Roll pins one, dad zero.
For what it is worth, when I went to HD, they have a 8.5 hp Ariens Deluxe for around $1,100...I will be about 1/2 that on an old machine...


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

common for the roll pins to be like that
you should have quit with axle bearings and impeller bearing


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## bbwb (Oct 25, 2018)

I would agree, except the flange for the impeller pulley would not come off either...after oiling, heating beating and applying the puller, I broke one of the bolt ears off (couldn't get the bearing off without flange removal). So after cutting and chiseling off got to the half moon key. That **** thing would not come out either with the chisel. Wound up having to grind off too.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

This is starting to sound like my current Ariens  I think it was stored outside, from the rust, and most fasteners were struggles to remove, with some breaking off.

The impeller pulley was stuck to the hub, and took time to just get *those* separated. I finally got the impeller pulley hub off the shaft, with oil, heat, and a puller. Then my woodruff key wouldn't budge, even with a punch & hammer, etc. Finally welded some scrap steel to the key, and used it as a long lever to get the key to start wiggling, and finally worked it out. Then sanded the new key down a bit, and coated it (and the keyway) with anti-seize, before installing it. 

I had some spiral pins on an MTD impeller/shaft, which I never got to budge. Your roll pins are likely hardened, they would probably require a special drill bit. 

You might try a strong C-clamp? Assuming you can access both sides of the pins. I've seen someone put something like a nut behind the shaft, so that it surrounds the pin, but sticks up higher than the pin does. Then put a C-clamp on it, with the nut on the back side (giving the clamp a "landing spot" that's not the pin), and the C-clamp pushing on the other end of the pin. You can then crank on the clamp, and possibly coax it into moving. You could at least keep constant pressure on it, if you also wanted to try a torch + oil. 

If you have an air chisel (air hammer) you could maybe try that? 

Also, are these tapered roll pins? Some on my Ariens were tapered, as I recall. If you got unlucky enough to pick the wrong end, for beating on it, you might just be making things worse. Good luck! I can sympathize with how it feels when even the simple things suddenly turn into a mess.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

bbwb said:


> I would agree, except the flange for the impeller pulley would not come off either...after oiling, heating beating and applying the puller, I broke one of the bolt ears off (couldn't get the bearing off without flange removal). So after cutting and chiseling off got to the half moon key. That **** thing would not come out either with the chisel. Wound up having to grind off too.



Iam pretty sure that models has it built into the pulley like my 1332 was
a pickle fork and 2 x4 placed agaisnt housing a few hit the usually come off much safer then the pullers


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

Angle grinder maybe???


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## bbwb (Oct 25, 2018)

Well, I got it all back together. It is a wonderful thing to assemble with practically all new parts...very easy to do. I only ran into one problem; after getting the whole machine back together, I wanted to get a better alignment with the impeller pulley and the motor...loosened the flange set screws, moved out and then tightened the set screws....tighten, tighten a little more, CRACK! I cracked the new flange piece. Fortunately, my hometown dealer had one (at a higher price) so after some choice words off to purchase. It is amazing how fast you can breakdown the snowblower and replace when you do it for a second time. New flange on, but I made sure to not over tighten the set screws.
I don't know if the next person (probably me) will appreciate that I put anti-seize and grease on all of the parts to make tear down easier. I also applied fluid film to the fasteners and rust spots.
I found the axle bearing and heavy duty skid replacement to be simple pimple. The heavy duty skids will last twice as long as the blower...had about 1/2" of steel on the bottom.
When I had it broken down, I had to screw with the drive pulley and sure enough the spring popped off. Took me a while to figure out where it came from...found the hole, but had to take more stuff off to remove the pulley to access the spring. 
Only have three other bearings that might need some TLC down the road, but at this point, I give...hope the motor lasts now.
Robert


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Awesome! I'll bet it's also easier to break down when every fastener simply unscrews, vs breaking off  I did the same, anti-seized & greased everything during re-assembly. Now the few things that I *have* needed to remove again have been trivial. 

I sure wish Ariens would have anti-seized everything during the initial build, though! Slap on another $10 if you must, I'd pay that happily.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I would rather have that model Ariens, completely refubished like you are doing, then have a new machine.....


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## CarbineMan (Jan 8, 2018)

On a 1970 Ariens we had to cut the auger shaft open lengthwise with a Dremel to get it off.


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## bbwb (Oct 25, 2018)

I agree that I would pay more if the manufacturer would use anti-seize with the thought that it might have to come apart at some time in the future. It was actually fun when all the parts slide together like they should.
I can't imagine having to cut the augers off with a Dremel...ish!


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