# Gasoline left in tank at end of season



## gutebo (Sep 21, 2017)

I inherited a 2012 Toro Power Max 724 OE which had been left for the last three years with 1/4 of the tank with gas. In order to get it going I had to clean out the gas tank, fuel lines and the carburetor. The main problem was in the Injector Tube (also called the Emulsion Tube) located inside the carburetor. The 2 mm hole in the center of and running the length of the tube was clogged in near the end opposite to the threaded part. After I was finished, I was running it until it stopped but I found that it was still about 1/8" of gas left in the bottom of the tank.

My question: How important is it to get all that gas out of the tank in order to prevent the problem I just went through? If I need to empty the tank completely, do you recommend removing the rubber fuel line from the carburetor and tilting the snow blower in different position? This was what I did when I had to empty the 1/4 tank of 3 year old gas.

Any help on this will be appreciated.
Anders in Winnetka, IL


----------



## guyl (Jun 12, 2016)

For the off season, I prefer adding stabilizer to a tank that's about half full and then running the machine for a good 5 minutes. Then when it's time to restart it, I top up the fuel tank with fresh gas and start it. Has always worked perfectly for me.


----------



## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

personally i would fully drain it and clean the tank out. another way i use sometimes, is when possible get some OFF ROAD hightest or aviation gas ,fill the tank and run it. down side is the ultra good gas can tend to loosen up what ever sludge gas is left,

another side note.when cleaning out carb jets, i keep several sets of my old guitar strings laying around,they make for good cleaners of carb jets and small bores of all types.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I think people like to empty plastic tanks and fill metal tanks. That prevents rust on the metal. Usually fuel goes bad in the carb and not the tank. I usually turn the fuel off and let the carb run out. Whatever is left in the tank I just save for next year. I have not had any problems doing that.


----------



## GAR (Nov 7, 2014)

I just picked up a 2006 Snapper two stage with a 9.5hp Biggs on it. Guy said he has been unable to start it for a couple years....When I got it home and into my garage I found out why.....LOL

I am a big advocate for using gas stabilizer and none ethanol gas.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF Anders

The best thing to do is drain the tank and carb bowl dry IMHO. Next best would be to mix up some Marine Stabil with gas and run it a while to make sure it gets to the carb. It's also nice if you can find pure gas without the 10% alcohol as it stores better.


----------



## GAR (Nov 7, 2014)

Here is a link to a webpage that has a list of none etanal gas stations in the U.S and Canada.
.
https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=MI


----------



## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Good Idea with the Guitar Strings.... I use Bread Ties. I Burn the Plastic Off with a Lighter, and they Work Well.


----------



## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

Local welding supply store has "tip cleaners" for acetylene torch nozzles. A little flip case with lots of wire sizes and a little abrasive down the wire to actually clean the orifices. Just be careful not to make the holes larger in the process.

To the OP's question:
I would -completely- drain the plastic tank at the end of the season. Regardless of type of fuel and whether there's stabilizer in it, any small amount of remaining fuel will likely evaporate over the summer. Anything that doesn't evaporate will find its way into the carburetor when you go to use it next season. I've cleaned a few filter screens in Honda fuel tank outlets on units that "ran fine at the end of last season", yet are plugged with varnish etc by the next season. I haven't felt the need to remove and flush the tank on my own stuff at the end of each season, but would if I was seeing the same problem.

Due to the somewhat unpredictable "schedule" of snowblower operation here, I'm resigned to treating every can of fuel with stabilizer when it's filled. That way only "StaBil-ized" fuel goes into the tank and through the carburetor. The fuel shutoff is closed at the end of each use, and I let the engine run at idle to get as much of the fuel out of the carburetor as possible.

Last winter saw about 45 hours added to the Hobbs meter, so there were no concerns about having old fuel in the tank. Forecast is for a wetter winter this year, but forecasts are not always accurate; Last year there was no warning for the 5x annual snowfall we managed to enjoy. We pray for snow here so our ski areas can attract $tourist$ to keep the local economy afloat. Plus I -LOVE- anything that makes loud noises and has a throttle. Anyway, all the old gas comes out at the end of the season, machines get full inspection and services, and they go to storage ready to come back for the next season.

We've been enjoying some cold nights already, with temps dipping into the high 20's a few times. There's been snow on the nearby mountains down to 5000 ft altitude, so it won't be a long wait for some at 4000 ft where we are. It's probably a little early for pulling stuff out and un-mothballing. The yard equipment will see duty for the next month or so, then it swaps out for the winter stuff. I should probably pull the winter stuff out and start the ritual wax-and-paint-sealant prep, on top of what was applied prior to storage. No fuel goes in yet though.


----------



## theoldwizard1 (Nov 23, 2011)

Install an inline shut off valve. Run the carburetor dry at the end of the season.


----------



## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

don't worry about a small about of crappy fuel in the tank. add new fuel and get ready for winter 

BTW - In order to clean out the carb jet & emulsion tube, starting fluid is a great solvent.


----------



## old goat (Jan 24, 2018)

just run it out of gas until it stops then use an old turkey baster to get the last little bit. then put a little seafoam in enough to cover the inlet and trickle some down the chock and change the spark plug every year and put some marvel mystery oil in the cylinder works great. just some advise that works for me.


----------



## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

I run the machine dry and then re-fill with 1/2 can of TruFuel. Let run for 5 minutes afterwards. Their gasoline is supposed to be stable for 2 yrs storage. I've had good luck with this strategy.


----------



## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

theoldwizard1 said:


> Install an inline shut off valve. Run the carburetor dry at the end of the season.





gutebo said:


> I inherited a 2012 Toro Power Max 724 OE which had been left for the last three years with 1/4 of the tank with gas. In order to get it going I had to clean out the gas tank, fuel lines and the carburetor. The main problem was in the Injector Tube (also called the Emulsion Tube) located inside the carburetor. The 2 mm hole in the center of and running the length of the tube was clogged in near the end opposite to the threaded part. After I was finished, I was running it until it stopped but I found that it was still about 1/8" of gas left in the bottom of the tank.
> 
> My question: How important is it to get all that gas out of the tank in order to prevent the problem I just went through? If I need to empty the tank completely, do you recommend removing the rubber fuel line from the carburetor and tilting the snow blower in different position? This was what I did when I had to empty the 1/4 tank of 3 year old gas.
> 
> ...


I know I am pushing against the grain here...............I never drain and never add crap to the fuel. A couple of times after leaving stuff in the tank for years, I have had to drop the carburetor's cup and run a wire into the main jet to purge its crap. Reassemble the carburetor,. add fuel and the engines have started on the first or second pull.


----------

