# Should worm drive be replaced



## thebud (Nov 17, 2019)

Hello, I have disassembled the auger gearbox on a Troy Bilt 2620. Its obvious that the auger gear needs replacing as it is all ground down. But never having done this before, it is hard to know if the worm drive needs replacing. See attached photo. Anything I should look for? Thanks


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I really can not tell from the photo, but it looks like the splines are wore down, as well as a serrated section in the beginning, which would possibly grind away at the brass.

Maybe go online and look at what that original splined shaft should look like.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Was the original worm wheel damaged from impact or wear? The worm drive is steel and the worm wheel is brass. Id say you could re-use the steel worm drive if it has no burrs or other issues I cant see in the photo. After cleaning it up of course.


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## thebud (Nov 17, 2019)

Thanks, but the photos I have seen online are too small and I cant see the detail.


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## thebud (Nov 17, 2019)

dbert, I don't ever remember an impact, so I am guessing wear. It's about 11 years old. By the way, what causes the gear to wear down. Is it lack of grease? I noticed when I was reseaching stuff (before attempting this repair) that some snowblowers have gear boxes that have grease fittings. This one did not. Or is this just planned obsolescence? Can't they make a stronger gear?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I am going to bet either the augers are rust welded on there shafts, or someone, at some time, inserted a regular bolt/pin, instead of a proper shear bolt/pin. This would allow the damage at the gear box, instead of the shear bolt/pin doing their job.


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## thebud (Nov 17, 2019)

oneacer said:


> I am going to bet either the augers are rust welded on there shafts, or someone, at some time, inserted a regular bolt/pin, instead of a proper shear bolt/pin. This would allow the damage at the gear box, instead of the shear bolt/pin doing their job.


oneacer, I have had the blower since it was new, 11 years ago. Never sheared a pin. Never used bolts. The pins and augers had a some rust on them but everything came apart quite easily during disassembly. I had been clearing the big pile by the street just before the auger died, but there were no ice chunks or hard snow. just heavy, dense, wet snow.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

It depends on you. Personally, I don't think it needs replace. Even donyboy said that in one of his videos. He fixes snowblowers and popular on youtube. A lot of people on here know him.

It is made out of steel and would chew the brass gear with no problem.

Even if the threads wore out a little (lose their sharpness), their bottom portions should be enough to drive the brass gear.

As long as the threads aren't damage, it is still good. If you can find it for cheap, then why not?

Your snowblower will die one day. No need to be perfect all the time.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, if you were the original owner, and always had free spinning augers, and greased gear box, and operated it properly, then I would have to say then that it was natural wear, or possible defective brass gear from the get go..... ?


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

Half way done, you can test rotating it to see how everything works. It won't be too late to decide.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

A lot of gearboxes had oil in them. It's more common today for manufactures to use a grease that has the consistency of apple sauce. Did you find remnants of any lubrication in yours?
Edit: Oh, and somebody mentioned Donyboy.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

I don't like brass gears. No reason for them to be brass.
All the steel ones in heavy duty snowblowers work great and nothing wrong with them.

Brass is more expensive, yet, they put them on? Why? you can guess.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dman2 said:


> I don't like brass gears. No reason for them to be brass.
> All the steel ones in heavy duty snowblowers work great and nothing wrong with them.
> Brass is more expensive, yet, they put them on? Why? you can guess.


 "The most common worm gears are made with a brass wheel and a steel worm. This is because the brass wheel is typically easier to replace than the worm itself. The wheel is made out of brass because it is designed to be sacrificial.

In the event that the two surfaces come into contact, the worm is marginally safe from wear because the wheel is softer, and therefore, most of the wear occurs on the wheel. Oil analysis reports on this type of unit almost always show some level of copper and low levels of iron - as a result of the sacrificial wheel.

This brass wheel throws another problem into the lubrication equation for worm gears. If a sulfur-phosphorous EP gear oil is put into the sump of a worm gear with a brass wheel, and the temperature is high enough, the EP additive will activate. In normal steel gears, this activation produces a thin layer of oxidation on the surface that helps to protect the gear tooth from shock loads and other extreme mechanical conditions.

On the brass surface however, the activation of the EP additive results in significant corrosion from the sulfur. In a short amount of time, you can lose a significant portion of the load surface of the wheel and cause major damage."


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## thebud (Nov 17, 2019)

dbert said:


> A lot of gearboxes had oil in them. It's more common today for manufactures to use a grease that has the consistency of apple sauce. Did you find remnants of any lubrication in yours?
> Edit: Oh, and somebody mentioned Donyboy.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzDTVS3ALO4


Mine had grease like what comes out of a grease gun. Of course it was infused with all the brass dust and bits that got ground off of the gear.


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## thebud (Nov 17, 2019)

Not sure how to thank everyone who replied to to my questions...... Thank you all. The things you click on to thank people seem a little confusing. At least to this old guy. Can never tell if I am thanking for the post above or the post below.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

thebud said:


> The things you click on to thank people seem a little confusing. At least to this old guy. Can never tell if I am thanking for the post above or the post below.


Think of it this way: You wouldn't react to a post until you read it to the end, so the Like/Thanks links below the post are applicable to it.


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## thebud (Nov 17, 2019)

The forum rules mention a For Sale or Wanted to Buy forum. Where do I find that?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

On the top of the page, click on Forums and you will see it on the bottom …..


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