# No start 8HP B&S



## NRP (Dec 28, 2015)

Hello everyone! I have hit a wall on one of my projects and came here for some help. I have been working on an old Toro model 38150 machine I picked up a while ago. It has a 8HP Briggs model 190402 engine with an updraft carburetor. As part of the work to this engine I have done so far, I restored the metal gas tank with new fuel cap and shut off valve, ran a new fuel line with an inline filter, and it has a NEW B&S carburetor. On the ignition side, I converted the point ignition over to a solid state coil and a new spark plug. While doing that job I checked the crankshaft end play and valve lash, all of which was well in spec. Now after all that work and new parts, I can't get it to start. I mean nothing! It won't pop, backfire, or even try to run in the least bit. I removed the fuel line to verify fuel flow through the line and tank valve, all of which was fine, verified spark, and still nothing. When I poured a teaspoon of gas into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, it started on the second pull which told me I had a carburetor issue. I adjusted the main needle out way more than the 1.5 turns factory set and still nothing. :banghead: Does anyone have any ideas on what I am missing? I verified the crankshaft key was in place when I reinstalled the flywheel. Could the exhaust valve be hanging open? Any help would be much appreciated. 

NP


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## KennyT (Nov 21, 2017)

Try dropping the float bowl on the carb and see if the float or needle is stuck. Carb could have been knocked around a bit in shipping.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Might want to check and if the float is set right. Did you totally rebuild zee carb?????*


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

how's the compression?


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## NRP (Dec 28, 2015)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *Might want to check and if the float is set right. Did you totally rebuild zee carb?????*


I didn't rebuild it, the carburetor is new.


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## NRP (Dec 28, 2015)

classiccat said:


> how's the compression?


I don't have an adapter to put a gauge on it, but there is no dead feel in the pull chord and I sure feel it in my shoulder!


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## Blackfin (Jan 25, 2016)

Tank reworked, new line, new shut-off and inline filter: Did you verify you've actually got fuel flowing to the carb? Remove the line at the carb and open the petcock: How well does fuel flow out the open end of the line?

EDIT: n/m, just reread and saw you did that...


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

NRP said:


> I don't have an adapter to put a gauge on it, but there is no dead feel in the pull chord and I sure feel it in my shoulder!


that's good.

if you unscrew the metering needle, you can verify that the bowl is filling...if no fuel flows out, then as the others above mentioned, needle/float might be stuck closed.

they're pretty easy carbs to work on.... as long as you remember to remove the emulsion tube before trying to separate the halves. :nerd:

Also, brand-new updraft carbs are notorious for leaking fuel... Here's zippo's remedy:


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## NRP (Dec 28, 2015)

Blackfin said:


> Tank reworked, new line, new shut-off and inline filter: Did you verify you've actually got fuel flowing to the carb? Remove the line at the carb and open the petcock: How well does fuel flow out the open end of the line?
> 
> EDIT: n/m, just reread and saw you did that...


Yes, I did exactly that. Full flow from the tank with no issues.


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## NRP (Dec 28, 2015)

classiccat said:


> that's good.
> 
> if you unscrew the metering needle, you can verify that the bowl is filling...if no fuel flows out, then as the others above mentioned, needle/float might be stuck closed.
> 
> ...


Thanks man!! I am going to try that in the morning and report back. I amazing that for what these things cost the leak. I like what Zippo said in the video about these being the quadra jet carburetors of the small engine world. Really puts things into perspective.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

If the intake valve is leaking you won't get the gas pulled up into the cylinder.


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## NRP (Dec 28, 2015)

Hello again with an update. As much as I am ashamed to write this, it's the truth and all I can say is I should have know better. I went out this morning and removed the carburetor to take it apart. Then it dawned on me I never blew through this carb while troubleshooting. While I was working on it yesterday I had tapped on the body of the carb a few times with the handle of my screwdriver thinking the float was stuck but never verified it wasn't. Today I blew into it and nothing!!!! A few light taps with a small dead blow hammer on the body and there was gas everywhere! :yahoo: Also thanks to the advice of ClassicCat for the youtube video. I removed the emulsion tube a number of times to tighten it as it says in the video. I got it tight enough that I felt I would break something if I didn't leave well enough alone. It leaked while trying to start it, but not while running or after shutting down. I was so happy it was running I didn't care at that point. After making a few adjustments it ran great. Looks like it time to start shopping for more parts. Thanks again to all that helped out! 

NP


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Thanks for reporting back NP! 

They're really nice, smooth snow engines. Glad that you got it running again! 

here's an image floating around the internet that does a good job explaining the updraft's leakage paths. (_you may have to adjust the float._)


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

omg someone had to say Q JET!!! a carb old techs called quadraleaks ,


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