# Scraper bar - Zero clearance or Paint stick clearance



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I like to have a zero clearance on my scraper bar rather than adjusting the skid shoes for a single thickness paint stick under the scraper bar. I prefer zero clearance as I want as little snow as possible for the sun to melt reducing the chances of slippery conditions.

Do you adjust your skid shoes for zero clearance? If you do nothing, you will be at zero clearance.

I like a little space and use a paint stick under each corner of the scraper bar.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

You should clarify that this is for a 2/3 stage snowblower.

I adjust the scraper bar and skids as needed.
For paved/hard surfaces a paint stick under the scraper bar(after being preset for my needs) than skids down.
For gravel I adjust the skids to get 3/4-1" scraper bar clearance from the "floor"


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## JD in NJ (Dec 21, 2016)

I use 1/8" steel. However, I'm finding that with the ArmorSkids that might be too much.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

I use washers, approx. the diameter of a US quarter.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

I have a roller skids on my Cub Cadet and i set my scraper around 1/16 or less. My driveway is smooth and it works well.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I equalize the air in my tires and use paint stir sticks. Been using them since I got my first blower. Zero clearance is asking for problems in a few ways. JMHO.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

I use 3/16 steel to adjust scraper, works good on concrete drives with uneven edges. Srape off with a 36" pusher after. My hs928 is the canadian version with full range bucket adjust. For gravel I raise the bucket a little until a frozen base is built up.


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## markd (Oct 29, 2014)

The scraper blade on my old Toro is spring loaded. I have 1/4" clearance under the augers, which allows the scraper blade to have zero clearance. If I hit a bump the blade moves rearward and then springs back in to place. This set up clears the snow completely, while not damaging the blade. SWEET!


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

I have a Ariens 24" compact. I'm tempted to make a new scraper bar from 1/4" UHMW Polyethylene. While I have mostly smooth concrete, my concern is that it might get destroyed after going over an uneven sidewalk. Anyone tried this?


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

I'm on crushed gravel so 3/4" works for me.

Overall there are different considerations.

For the sake of the machine you never want it so low that the scrapper (or cutter) bar is continually snagging the ground making the machine buck and jump. That's hard on everyone.

A bar that is scraping will wear and you want to know what your next bar(s) will cost if your surfaces will work with that method. Minimal clearance and maintaining skids may be preferable. 

The classic paint paddle are a good starting point for well paved spaces.

Pete


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

As the starter of this poll, I'm learning. 

Spring loaded scraper bar? This is a great idea for uneven sidewalks with lips, sidewalks that have heaved. I'm sure there must be pins to hold it and allow the scraper bar to swing. I'd like to see a picture of that. Might be worth noting on a post or my recent snowblower improvement post.

The poll is early but I'm flabbergasted, 13-2!!! Against me, and one of the 2 is mine. I really thought this was a no brainer, scrape the concrete, as little snow as possible, less of icing, less chance of people slipping. 13-2, Dam, am I wrong?


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I think it's more of a snow blower preservation act LOL Zero would be good but the damage that can be caused to some blowers isn't worth it to most of us. I would rather have a 1/8 of snow than to damage my blower or need to replace the scraper blade so often


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## BeerGhost (Dec 17, 2013)

With the scraper bar set at 1/8" the snow left just disappears.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

BeerGhost said:


> With the scraper bar set at 1/8" the snow left just disappears.


Disappears? Really? I was always concerned about that and never wanted to take the chance and have it freeze. I don't mind the scraper bar being replaced if it does a better job, cheap insurance if there's less chance of ice. Besides I just keep reusing the scraper bar by welding another piece of metal on it. It costs me longer bolts as the thickness builds up.


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## markd (Oct 29, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> As the starter of this poll, I'm learning.
> 
> Spring loaded scraper bar? This is a great idea for uneven sidewalks with lips, sidewalks that have heaved. I'm sure there must be pins to hold it and allow the scraper bar to swing. I'd like to see a picture of that. Might be worth noting on a post or my recent snowblower improvement post.
> 
> Here you go: #48 is the blade and #31 the springs


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Most people wouldn't even drag their machine  out for less than 1 or 2 inches, unless of course they have a brand new shiney machine.
Sid


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## Snow Gone (Jan 29, 2016)

Paint stick clearance for me for hard surfaced snow clearing. The sun usually clears off the remainder in a couple of days. 

I only have one problem area. I usually do my neighbors driveway. It has one of those cast iron water shut off valves sunken into the driveway, however, one edge is a little proud. Just proud enough to catch the scraper....EVERY TIME. I may have to increase the clearance slightly to eliminate my swearing


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Great Question....and i'll throw my experience in....In Eastern MA, There are very few dead flat drives that will actually leave an 1/8" layer of snow, that would be melted by the boots of an operator with a pulse. Sun/exposure will normally take it down to pavement. The biggest risk to machines I've seen, with Zero Clearance, is that the Scraper & Shoes start to wear at the same smooth angle. As that angle becomes smooth and knife like, there is less chance of the machine "Chopping" into the drive. Then, as the shoes wear, the bucket sides do along with it, as well as the carriage blots.....then the nuts, all with the same angle. As the nuts wear to a pie shape angle, then does the bottom of the tub. By the time some of these "Curb Side Deals" make it in for repairs, there aren't any recognizable bolt holes left. And the bottom of the tub looks like the shoreline, of ocean front property, after a mild hurricane. But for the Grace of God, there are some pretty clever amateurs out there, with a bag of trix, that will impress the most experienced of engineers. They have some ingenious ways of attaching self styled cutting edges, with space age fasteners. Kinda makes me wonder why the Snowblower manufactures haven't snapped these people off the streets. Of course this is with months and sometimes years of abuse and neglect......mostly because the Big Retailers set the shoes with Zero Clearance. Along with that shiny new purchase, is "Lifetime Shoes, That NEVER Need Adjusting". Your mileage may vary. I'll try to include pix from "The Wall of Shame" Sorry, I'm in the 1/8" Steel Adjustment Bar Method. Jay


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

markd said:


> JLawrence08648 said:
> 
> 
> > As the starter of this poll, I'm learning.
> ...


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

First off, lets just say I am a paint stick guy.
My attempt at a zero clearance scraper worked awesome until the first time I hit this head on.








If this had a typical bucket with typical shoe mounting location it may have stood a chance. Today when I hit this obstacle with the steel scrapper it's still rather violent. I need to talk to the folks at snowblowerskids.com about some shoes.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Here are pix of the Ariens that were brought in by Goldstein Cousins, Rube and Robin. They Used the "Zero Clearance" method on the machines. They were also equipped with the "Set For Life" Skid Shoes. 

I'll have to change the format of the pix and resend....Sory


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Its nearly impossible to use zero clearance, because no driveway is ever perfectly smooth and even, there will always be small imperfections, even if you cant see them..

So the scraper set at zero clearance will always be hitting and scraping things, gouging up those minor high spots and causing the machine to catch and buck..but if you leave that small 1/8 inch "paint stir stick" gap, the snowblower doesnt hit anything, and only the skids touch the ground sliding smoothy along.

People dont leave that small gap because they *want* to leave a thin layer of snow behind, no one chooses that delibrately!







but we all do it because we have to, its just standard opearating procedure.

And yes, that small bit of snow left behind is nothing, it disappears quickly. I have never had any problem with it at all.

Embrace the gap!







its there for a reason. Its makes your life much easier, and it causes no problems at all, the small layer of snow left behind is a total non-issue.

Scot


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

OK, Let's try this again. These are the pix of the Advantages of Zero Clearance Shoes. Pretty crafty owners here....I think they used 2 piece flashing for their house on the 32" tub. His cousin wore the tub down so far, she had to put the cutting edge UNDER the tub, and the bolts pointing UP!!!


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

JayzAuto1 said:


> OK, Let's try this again. These are the pix of the Advantages of Zero Clearance Shoes. Pretty crafty owners here....I think they used 2 piece flashing for their house on the 32" tub. His cousin wore the tub down so far, she had to put the cutting edge UNDER the tub, and the bolts pointing UP!!!


Pretty much says it all.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

jermar said:


> I have a Ariens 24" compact. I'm tempted to make a new scraper bar from 1/4" UHMW Polyethylene. While I have mostly smooth concrete, my concern is that it might get destroyed after going over an uneven sidewalk. Anyone tried this?


I replaced a push shovel edge with UHMW. worked good on the shovel slid easy and wore good. But that was pushed by hand. Thought about other uses for UHMW but from my experiences I dont feel it would last as a scraper on a SB. Likely wouldnt stand.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I feel that the term "scraper bar" is a bit misleading. On a 2 stage blower the skid shoes are what should be maintaing full ground contact. The scraper bar shouldn't. You are free to run your machine however you choose but the experienced operator knows what happens to ground contact scraper bars. It really isn't in the best interest of your machine or you, to do it. The sudden stops are hard on both. I'll continue to keep my scraper bar airborne. :snow48:


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## merdody1 (Jan 30, 2017)

I have a new smooth driveway and it allows me to keep the scraper blade very low and gets better results than the paint stick height.


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## pdesjr (Feb 7, 2015)

I use the paintstick because in twenty years from now my machine will still operate like today.Unlike the pictures from Jayz.I also use a pusher shovel to go over the drive way after.Have a 30in wide snowplow shovel.Works great .Takes 5 min to clean up.Let the sun do the rest.


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## mrfixit (Dec 3, 2016)

When I picked up my blower from the dealer, the lead mechanic told me he set the skids so there was a 1/8 inch gap under the scraper bar. He told me to check it and keep it set to this dimension.

He knew this was my first blower and went over the machine with me. It has worked great.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Prime said:


> I replaced a push shovel edge with UHMW. worked good on the shovel slid easy and wore good. But that was pushed by hand. Thought about other uses for UHMW but from my experiences I dont feel it would last as a scraper on a SB. Likely wouldnt stand.


I see that Manplow actually sells replacement edges for their shovels. 
Scroll to the bottom to see their latest edge design.
MANPLOW Parts


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

jermar said:


> I have a Ariens 24" compact. I'm tempted to make a new scraper bar from 1/4" UHMW Polyethylene. While I have mostly smooth concrete, my concern is that it might get destroyed after going over an uneven sidewalk. Anyone tried this?


I think there was a thread on this a couple of years ago. Take a look and you may find a lot of shared experiences.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

sscotsman said:


> Its nearly impossible to use zero clearance, because no driveway is ever perfectly smooth and even, there will always be small imperfections, even if you cant see them..
> 
> So the scraper set at zero clearance will always be hitting and scraping things, gouging up those minor high spots and causing the machine to catch and buck..but if you leave that small 1/8 inch "paint stir stick" gap, the snowblower doesnt hit anything, and only the skids touch the ground sliding smoothy along.
> 
> ...


What he said.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

pdesjr said:


> I use the paintstick because in twenty years from now my machine will still operate like today.Unlike the pictures from Jayz.I also use a pusher shovel to go over the drive way after.Have a 30in wide snowplow shovel.Works great .Takes 5 min to clean up.Let the sun do the rest.


+1 on this method. Makes skid shoes the wear item as they are meant to be. If you own a welder you can weld a fresh strip on the shoe when they get worn, low cost repair. lots of times I have scrap metal in the bin that will do the build up.:iagree:


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Prime, I do the same with worn out/worn down skids..... Not to sell, just to experiment with designs. Tried some Hard-Facing. More just to waste time and materials, than save anything...Maybe that's how ArmorSkids* stumbled onto a World-Class Design!!! 

GLuck, Jay


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