# storm 2410 Carburetor access issue



## gamechanger

I bought a Storm 2410 from Lowe's back in Oct 2014. This year it won't start and I tried the easy carburetor drain/clean approach by using the two screws under the carburetor to no success. Now I am thinking to change the carburetor before I dump this machine, however, I found it was extremely difficult to dissemble the cover in front of the carburetor that has the choke/prime/run controls on it: the cover actually extends to the other side of the fuel tank just ends to the inside of the electric start. Is there any idea how I can remove the cover in front of the carburetor? I would be happy to post a picture if I can.


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## Dauntae

That’s the big issue with the powermore engines on the MTD blowers, A LOT of screws to remove to get to the carb, It isn’t really hard but a little time consuming. Take lots of pics with the phone so you can reference where all the screws go back in. I also have to replace a carb on a 2410 for a friend so I am in the same situation. I think the newer models now have a split in the middle so you only have to remove half the cover but in this case it all has to come off for both of us, sorry for giving bad news.


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## gamechanger

pictures seems can only be attached.


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## gamechanger

Dauntae said:


> That’s the big issue with the powermore engines on the MTD blowers, A LOT of screws to remove to get to the carb, It isn’t really hard but a little time consuming. Take lots of pics with the phone so you can reference where all the screws go back in. I also have to replace a carb on a 2410 for a friend so I am in the same situation. I think the newer models now have a split in the middle so you only have to remove half the cover but in this case it all has to come off for both of us, sorry for giving bad news.


Thanks! Is there a way I can dissemble it? I managed to do all other screws but stuck at where the electric starter is.


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## Dauntae

the starter switch has the two smaller screws on the starter switch








once those two are out the corner will become free as it's held in place by one of those screws, This is the same engine you have but a old parts engine I have so got some pics for you.


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## gamechanger

Dauntae said:


> the starter switch has the two smaller screws on the starter switch
> once those two are out the corner will become free as it's held in place by one of those screws, This is the same engine you have but a old parts engine I have so got some pics for you.


Thanks. I did notice the two screws, however, what wrench would be good to remove them? I tried different SAE and Metric wrenches but they just slipped. THe two screws are in the back of the starter so to insert the wrench in is pretty challenging.

Edit: ok, I see what you mean. Actually the two screws can be removed easily as their heads are just as in your photo. These two are pretty long ones. I now have them off already.


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## Dauntae

It’s the two screws on the starter switch, these were philips head screwdrivers, those are the ones holding the cover on.


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## gamechanger

Dauntae said:


> It’s the two screws on the starter switch, these were philips head screwdrivers, those are the ones holding the cover on.


Exactly. Thanks! I now have the cover almost out, however, the two chock and run controls seem not able to be removed. Any trick on these two?


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## Dauntae

Sorry it took so long to reply, The knobs make take a little force to pull off but they clip on with the plastic and if you put a screw driver behind them they come off pretty easily once they start to move.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I have a 2410 too and I've needed to pull the carb as I wanted to make it quit hunting all the time. Drilled the jet. The cover is a pain, the knobs are a pain. It's just a matter of making sure you have a container for all the fasteners and and going from the left to the back to the right side and pulling those knobs off. :sad2:

.


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## gamechanger

Dauntae said:


> Sorry it took so long to reply, The knobs make take a little force to pull off but they clip on with the plastic and if you put a screw driver behind them they come off pretty easily once they start to move.


thanks. will give it try. I figured maybe due to the coldness the knob became very stiff so I will use a heat gun to heat it and it will be easier to come off


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## 132619

gamechanger said:


> thanks. will give it try. I figured maybe due to the coldness the knob became very stiff so I will use a heat gun to heat it and it will be easier to come off


careful with heat,i melted the ones i had to pull off,yes they are tight and hard but do come off when pulled straight up
the cover it self is 4 -10mm head bolts holding the muffler shield, 2 by the tank needing a box wrench , 2 on the outside, the 2 number 2 phillips screws that hold the starter button on. 2 - 10mm head cap screws holding the carb to the studs,it's off, 

price wise about 70 bucks for the carb plus 3 gaskets from a dealer,about 100 total, 15 bucks on amazon which is a hit and miss for getting a good one out of the many clones they sell, most of those listed come with the gaskets, sometimes a unneeded filter and some a new spark plug,which IMM tells how cheaply made they are, 

good luck man ,i'm doing one also, seems a big pita,it's not


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## steveyjon

Not sure if this will help , but here is a link to a step by step of changing out of a carb on a Cub Cadet. The CC is very similar to the TB as they are both made by MTD, It also contains videos of other repair items.



https://www.repairclinic.com/Video/...Snowblower-Runs-Roughly-Carburetor-951-14027A


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## cranman

I had a Craftsman I had to change the carb on....not a job I liked.


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## Bluejoe

Hello I have done plenty of the Troybuit snowblower carburetors and others that share the same type of setup. The plastic knobs are hard to remove so you have to watch when you pull or pry them off you don’t break them. Then there’s the choke lever which follows right after removing air shroud. Watch out for the placement of the primer and ground wires to kill switch. Even though I know it’s the carb I will check for spark or dead cylinder. If it passes I pull the carb. Most times carb needs a through cleaning.


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## fmlong

Im also having a carb issue and posted a similar thread although in all Ive read I can't seem to be convinced any of them yet answer whats wrong with mine. If the primer hose is not bad but you still hear it sucking air, what is the next place to look. I cant find this loss of vacuum, maybe gaskets? But mine look good. Let me know if the poster here needs any more help on getting carb off. I researched several videos and other sites go figure out the last items in my way which were the choke and throttle knobs. Now I have the thing in my hand and it looks brand new although fuel is leaking from somewhere


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## Bluejoe

Hello You can hear the primer plunge but if there is a cut or tear in primer line like that can usually get it won’t get any primer gas to initiate start. Everything is in tight area primer line and several kill switch wires all tied up under the cover. The primer line usually runs thru a holdown to keep it away from obstructing the carb linkage. So as the wires going to kill switches.


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