# How to replace wire from stator?



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

I have a Craftsman 9/28 model 247.888530 with a Tecumseh engine. It has a factory-equipped headlamp. The headlamp has worked fine in the past so recently when it stopped working, I assumed the sealed beam had blown. I replaced it and it still didn't work. I put a meter on the the supply wires and no power. The wire coming out of the engine is missing insulation with bare wire exposed either due to heat or simply old age. Can I replace this wire coming from the stator? If so, how do I get access to the stator? I can't tell from the parts diagram. 

Do I just remove the cover for the manual recoil starter with 4 gold-colored nuts? Or do I have to remove the black engine housing?

Take a look at the photos. Photo #1 shows what looks like a white wire (it's actually yellow as seen in photo #2) exiting the black engine housing. The system is only posting 1 photo at a time so my other 2 photos will be in separate posts.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Here is photo#2 which shows the same wire (now you can see it's yellow) with the exposed strands of copper wire.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Here is photo #3 which shows the black housing. You can see 2 of the 4 gold nuts/bolts by the recoil starter handle. There are a couple of bolts on top of the housing, there's one on each side of the spark plug.


----------



## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

CO Snow said:


> I have a Craftsman 9/28 model 247.888530 with a Tecumseh engine. It has a factory-equipped headlamp. The headlamp has worked fine in the past so recently when it stopped working, I assumed the sealed beam had blown. I replaced it and it still didn't work. I put a meter on the the supply wires and no power. The wire coming out of the engine is missing insulation with bare wire exposed either due to heat or simply old age. Can I replace this wire coming from the stator? If so, how do I get access to the stator? I can't tell from the parts diagram.
> .


You will have to replace the wire all the way to the stator or until you find good wire and yes you should remove the recoil case and see if you have access to the wire being in good shape. Try this for start.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello CO Snow. Here is a video showing the location of the lighting coil which is underneath the flywheel. You will have to remove the recoil shroud (the black housing) to access the flywheel and coil. No need to remove the four nuts holding the rope assembly to it. As Normex stated, if your lucky, after removing the shroud you will be able to splice into a good part of the damaged wire. There is a good possibility that the coil is damaged from the wire shorting and will need to be replaced. If you do have to remove the flywheel, it is critical to torque the flywheel nut to 58 ft\lbs.





 
Link to engine service manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I am not positive, but if that shorts out I think it could have ruined your lightning coil.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Thanks for the advise. WOW seems like a lot of work. He had the engine off and on a workbench. I'm sure it would be a lot tougher with the engine on the blower. I'm wondering if it's worth messing with?


----------



## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

CO Snow said:


> Thanks for the advise. WOW seems like a lot of work. He had the engine off and on a workbench. I'm sure it would be a lot tougher with the engine on the blower. I'm wondering if it's worth messing with?


 You could just go to the next step by removing the recoil shroud and see if the wire is not damaged as you can splice from there but there is no guaranty as Shryp pointed out the lightning coil could be kaput but its worth a try. Good Luck


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Grunt said:


> Hello CO Snow. Here is a video showing the location of the lighting coil which is underneath the flywheel. You will have to remove the recoil shroud (the black housing) to access the flywheel and coil. No need to remove the four nuts holding the rope assembly to it. As Normex stated, if your lucky, after removing the shroud you will be able to splice into a good part of the damaged wire. There is a good possibility that the coil is damaged from the wire shorting and will need to be replaced. If you do have to remove the flywheel, it is critical to torque the flywheel nut to 58 ft\lbs.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyyTWNH7Ow
> 
> ...


Just curious, Grunt, you said 58 ft\lbs and the video says 52 ft\lbs?

I'm going to try this repair project. I've taken off the engine shroud along with the cup, nut and washer on the shaft. I'm ready to remove the flywheel. Easier said than done. Here's a photo of what it looks like. I assume I need to use a gear puller and put the hooks behind the teeth around the outside edge of the flywheel. Bear with me because I haven't used one of these before. Then use a socket and ratchet to turn the shaft of the gear puller? Is it likely to be tough to get off? Any lubricant or hammer needed?


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Here's a photo of the flywheel looking from above. 

Why can't I upload more than 1 photo at a time? I select the photos and click on UPLOAD but only the last selected file uploads. The file size is small so that's not the problem.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The force of a gear puller on the outer edges of the flywheel can crack it in half. Even if all looks well and it pops off you might put a hairline crack in it and it can break apart while running. Easiest way to remove it is to loosen the nut until it is even with the threads and then tap it with a hammer and maybe a block of wood. Air hammer/chisel with a blunt tip is suppose to work well too.

If you have an impact that works well for removing the nut.

Make sure you get that nut tight enough when putting it back together or else your flywheel will spin and shear the key and mess up the timing.

Jump to about 4:10 here:


----------



## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

To post more than one pic in one setting you have to upload two different pics at the same time meaning you chose pic#1 and upload then choose pic #2 using browse again and upload then you see you have two files in one session Good Luck


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Thanks, Shryp. I saw Donyboy's video after I posted the question. I'll try that tomorrow. 

The wire from stator is bare as far as I can see to the edge of the flywheel. Need to get that flywheel off to see the stator and see if the wire can be spliced. Is there a way to know if the stator is generating power without putting everything back together again?Because if it's not working then I have to take it apart a 2nd time to replace it.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

CO Snow said:


> Just curious, Grunt, you said 58 ft\lbs and the video says 52 ft\lbs?


 I got the 58 ft\lbs setting from the torque specs in the back of the service manual. 52 ft\lbs seems to be for an HH engine, not an HMSK? Shryp already recommended how to remove the flywheel. AFTER reinstalling the flywheel and torqueing to spec, use a new business card as a feeler gage between the ignition coil and the flywheel magnets to set the correct air gap of .012-.015.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Thanks, Grunt. Yep, I saw the gapping with the index card in the video so I am ready for that. I wasn't sure I'd be able to tackle this project but my neighbor is good about letting me borrow tools (torque wrench). 

I'll report my results tomorrow.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I know when checking for spark you can just set the flywheel on the shaft and turn it by hand and you will get spark when the magnets cross the coil. You can just turn it 5 degrees or so back and forth and don't need a full revolution. I am not sure if the stator will work the same way or not.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I couldn't find any resistance readings for the stator anywhere. Maybe you could leave the plug out and use a drill to spin the engine over while watching a volt meter attached to the stator wire? The voltage will be low since the motor rpm's determine how much voltage is put out.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Ok, I'll try the drill. Getting ready to try to remove flywheel now.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Can't get flywheel off. Tried tapping end of crankshaft with the nut to protect threads. I was using a pry bar at the same time and moving around the flywheel with the pry bar. 

What's next step? Use a propane torch and heating flywheel around the crankshaft? Can I cause any damage such as ignition components?


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Got the flywheel off and did I have a SURPRISE with the stator. I'll post pictures later.


----------



## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

CO Snow said:


> Got the flywheel off and did I have a SURPRISE with the stator. I'll post pictures later.


 As Shryp mentioned cooked?


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Much, much worse. I can't even replace the stator with a new one. No more lights on this machine. I'll post photos after I put it back together.


----------



## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

CO Snow said:


> Much, much worse. I can't even replace the stator with a new one. No more lights on this machine. I'll post photos after I put it back together.


You could entertain putting a small 12 v 12AH stand alone battery with 2 10 watts Leds connected to it then have a battery maintainer to keep your battery charged. With this set up at 20 watts your lights would be good for 7 hours. I have a set up like this. Just a suggestion I can help if you wish.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

*What a mess!*

Finally had to resort to using a puller to get the flywheel off. It didn't take much effort though, so the tapping may have helped loosen it. I think even pressure pulling all around the edge was the key. When I got the flywheel off, there wasn't a stator where it was supposed to be. It was badly mangled and stuck to the magnets inside the flywheel as shown in this photo:


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

This photo shows where the stator was supposed to be located. At the 11 o'clock position you can see where the metal post WAS that holds the stator in place. That metal post was totally ripped away. There is an identical post at the 5 o'clock position from the crankshaft and part of it has been cut off. That post isn't used for anything. It's not used to hold the stator.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Here's a closer look at the mangled stator. The bolt that holds the stator is still in place and is next to the asphalt. It's still attached to the metal post. I've never looked at one of these before so I'd appreciate thoughts on what happened. 

Here's my suspicion: There is supposed to be a plastic sleeve that slides on the crankshaft before the stator is mounted. I think the sleeve wore out and disintegrated. Then the stator started to wobble and got hit by one of the magnets in the flywheel which ripped it off. Once that happened, it stayed in place being stuck to the magnet. The weird part is that I never heard, felt or saw anything that made me suspicious of what happened. BUT the blower is LOUD and I wear ear protector muffs with a built-in radio. 

Bottom line: can't attach a new stator since there is nothing to mount it to. So no more headlight for this snowblower, at least using a stator.

*Thank goodness it was a beautiful 65 degree day here in Colorado today in order to deal with this project.*. But snow is in the forecast this weekend.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

CO Snow said:


> This photo shows where the stator was supposed to be located. At the 11 o'clock position you can see where the metal post WAS that holds the stator in place. That metal post was totally ripped away. There is an identical post at the 5 o'clock position from the crankshaft and part of it has been cut off.


That is really bad. On the plus side, the mounting posts broke off cleanly and didn't compromise the engine block causing an oil leak. Possibly one screw came loose, the magnets caught the coil and ripped it away? Buying a flash light is a lot cheaper than buying a new engine.  Glad and sad you found the problem.


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

yay for tecumseh, the self destructing engines!

that damage looks pretty bad, i have never seen that before, were the stator bolts lose? your lucky it did not rip a chunk of the block out, at least the engine is still useable


----------



## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

+1 Grunt msg,

Again I can offer you my help if you decide having bright Led lights on your snow blower. Good Luck


----------



## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

What happens to those is the gear teeth on the electric starter get broken off (happens on late model Tecumsehs with the blue starter gear) the broken teeth then get stuck to the magnets inside the flywheel, catch the stator and rip it out of the block as shown. Sometimes when the bosses get ripped out of the block they leave a hole and all the oil drains out.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Normex said:


> +1 Grunt msg,
> 
> Again I can offer you my help if you decide having bright Led lights on your snow blower. Good Luck


Right now I really only use the blower during the day so lights aren't critical. If that changes, Normex, I might take you up on your offer later. I think I'll be in the market for a replacement for my current blower but no rush.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

43128 said:


> yay for tecumseh, the self destructing engines!
> 
> that damage looks pretty bad, i have never seen that before, were the stator bolts lose? your lucky it did not rip a chunk of the block out, at least the engine is still useable


This stator is attached by only 1 bolt. It's still solidly attached to the mounting post. The entire mounting post ripped off.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

94EG8 said:


> What happens to those is the gear teeth on the electric starter get broken off (happens on late model Tecumsehs with the blue starter gear) the broken teeth then get stuck to the magnets inside the flywheel, catch the stator and rip it out of the block as shown. Sometimes when the bosses get ripped out of the block they leave a hole and all the oil drains out.


Not on this one. The original starter on this machine died over a year ago and still had all of its teeth. I replaced the starter but it's been off for some time due to mounting brackets that broke off. All of its teeth are intact, too.

This is an older Tecumseh (2002 or 2003) and starter gears are not blue.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I had a Craftsman (Poulan) hedge trimmer that had the head bolts loosen up as well as the ignition coil mounting tabs get broken off like that.


----------

