# Oil question



## Beo Cin (Jan 14, 2018)

Just got me a new Honda 928 and the Manual calls for 5W30 I have 6 jugs of Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil on my shelf and i'm wondering if it's ok to use instead of the 5W30?
My plan is to change oil at 5 hours BTW.


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## mtblade (Jan 2, 2018)

I've run synthetic 5W-20 in really cold temps. If it gets warmer, or has seen more than usual use, change it out, or go with heavier 5W-30 synthetic. Depending on the amount of snow we get where I live, I usually change the oil 2 times per winter.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

do not use synthetic oil during the break in process.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Beo Cin said:


> Just got me a new Honda 928 and the Manual calls for 5W30 I have 6 jugs of Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil on my shelf and i'm wondering if it's ok to use instead of the 5W30?
> My plan is to change oil at 5 hours BTW.


Myself, if I had just spent $3K+ for a new snowblower, saving a few bucks on oil would seem to be penny-wise, pound-foolish. I would not use it. You may be able to bring it to WalMart - if they sell it - and exchange it. Or, check other places that sell it. WalMart is very customer-friendly.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

I originally wrote something different and changed my mind. Although I recognize that you live in Ontario I recommend not going with the 5W-20 synthetic blend for two reasons. First, the range is insufficient. Second, I wouldn't use synthetic or a blend during break-in. Having said that, I'd ask the dealer for a confirmation.

Go the full synthetic route after 5 hours - not a blend.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Seems like good advice to me. I'd run what they suggest, if nothing else for just some peace of mind. It's a nice, expensive machine. I'd want to treat it well. I'd let it break in for at least 5 hours, if possible, on regular oil, then switch to fully-synthetic. Heck, changing the oil with regular (non-synthetic) oil after maybe an hour wouldn't do any harm, just to help get any stuff from break-in out of the oil.


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## Beo Cin (Jan 14, 2018)

Got it! I'll stick to the owner manual and will pick up a jug of fully-synthetic. Now to make a good choice in which brand to get. 
Thanks guys!


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

run supertech 5w30 for the first 20hrs or so(or any dino) then switch to your favorite synthetic


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## Beo Cin (Jan 14, 2018)

43128 said:


> run supertech 5w30 for the first 20hrs or so(or any dino) then switch to your favorite synthetic


I'm stuck here. Who makes this Supertech Oil? Looking at the shelf at Walmart and Canadian Tire this morning, all the Major brands are there but didnt see any Supertech. I guess any brand will do the trick.
Just looked for a sticker on the engine to see whether i have a Gx, a Gc or Gs, but there is nothing identifying it. How can i tell?
Googled my Model # H88928ACTD and found this " Honda GX270T2, 4-stroke, OHV, single-cylinder"
https://powerequipment.honda.ca/snowblowers/28-inch-track-drive#specifications


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I believe Supertech is Walmart's house oil brand. Or at least it's available there, in the US.


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## EdwardC (Sep 26, 2016)

Walmart's house brand, Supertech, is usually one of the better priced oils there, but if they don't have it in you store, just buy the cheapest 5W30 for your break-in. 

If you click through the models, it should say which engine you have, which is almost certainly the GX270.
https://powerequipment.honda.com/snowblowers/two-stage-snowblowers


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## Beo Cin (Jan 14, 2018)

Thanks guys.
Now for the final question, what's considered broke in? Some had mentioned 5 hours, with one saying 20 hours.?


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## The Q (Dec 19, 2016)

Broke in is whatever your owners manual says It should be. Dino or synthetic or synthetic blend is fine for break in. The only reason people say use dino for break in is because it is a waste of expensive synthetic to only use for 5 or so hours before changing it. IMO for break in I would just follow the manual and use the reccomended viscosity of whatever oil I have on hand


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## EdwardC (Sep 26, 2016)

I checked your manual and there doesn't seem to be anything specific for a break-in procedure, but it does say to change the oil the first time at 20h or 1st month, then every 100h after that. So to me, it sounds like Honda says it's good to go at 20h. I think that changing it at 5 hours is more of a general rule of thumb, which I feel wouldn't hurt. 

What I would personally do is run the cheap conventional 5W30 for the first 5 hours, then dump it and run conventional again until you hit a total of 20 hours, then run a full synthetic (more so for easier starts) for the rest of its life. 

Here's another thread: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...602-new-engine-break-procedure-there-one.html


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The Q said:


> Dino or synthetic or synthetic blend is fine for break in. The only reason people say use dino for break in is because it is a waste of expensive synthetic to only use for 5 or so hours before changing it.


The explanations that I've seen for using dino during break-in don't have to do with cost. It was because with synthetic during break-in, the piston rings may not seat properly, making things worse for the engine, rather than just your wallet.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

The basis for changing oil after break-in is engine manufacturing material brought into suspension during break-in must be removed because (unlike vehicles) snow blowers don't have oil filters. It's really a question of changing the oil before these materials can do damage to the engine.

Given this is already mid-January, I'd change the oil after 10 hours or less and then again when the snow blower is prepped for storage in 60-90 days.


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

You can run that 5w20 without any issues, but break it in first with what is called for.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Briggs says it is fine to use reg or synthetic for the 5 hr break in. They do note that as a cost savings measure, that reg oil would be cheaper. They probably did some testing.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/lam/es/support/faqs/recommended-engine-break-in-procedures


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

I broke-in my Harbor Freight Greyhound 6.5hp Honda-clone with Supertech 5w-30 synthetic and that's what's been in it ever since-never a problem with that engine after 7 years.

I've done some reading on Supertech oils and they do quite well in testing.I use their 30W lawnmower oil in summer too.


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## The Q (Dec 19, 2016)

RedOctober the piston rings will seat fine with synthetic or dino oil with the recommended viscosity in the owners manual. It is strictly a cost savings alternative.


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## rickwhoo (Sep 18, 2017)

What's the best oil to use in my CUB CADET 3X 30HD 420cc engine. Is synthetic 5w-30 the best? I'm in North East PA


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

It seems 5W-30 is the best for winter use and most engines say to use it, I use Supertech synthetic in everything including my truck. Though it gets changed a little more frequent in the truck LOL


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

rickwhoo said:


> What's the best oil to use in my CUB CADET 3X 30HD 420cc engine. Is synthetic 5w-30 the best? I'm in North East PA


I believe you'll find synthetic oil best for your needs and 5W-30 will be fine in Pa. Stay with a full synthetic not a blend and try to stick with a quality brand. I prefer Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, or Valvoline. Buy it in a 5 quart container and you can use it in your mower, as well, as synthetic 5W30 has a broader temperature range than equivalent conventional oil.

While vehicles can go longer between oil changes, small engines (such as snow blowers) require oil changes at the same interval regardless of the oil used.


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## rickwhoo (Sep 18, 2017)

Tony P. said:


> I believe you'll find synthetic oil best for your needs and 5W-30 will be fine in Pa. Stay with a full synthetic not a blend and try to stick with a quality brand. I prefer Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, or Valvoline. Buy it in a 5 quart container and you can use it in your mower, as well, as synthetic 5W30 has a broader temperature range than equivalent conventional oil.
> 
> While vehicles can go longer between oil changes, small engines (such as snow blowers) require oil changes at the same interval regardless of the oil used.


I use synthetic oil in all my cars so why not in the snow blower... and lawn tractor.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

rickwhoo said:


> I use synthetic oil in all my cars so why not in the snow blower... and lawn tractor.


Rick, I use synthetic as well but I'll answer the question. Although there are several reasons, the primary one is cost. Comparing equivalents, Mobil synthetic ($9 / quart) can cost more than twice as much as Mobil conventional ($4 / quart) motor oil. While this isn't significant in the whole world of things, it's also difficult to justify on the basis of established benefits. (For example, someone with a 50' driveway may not get his snow blower more than warmed up by the time he's finished.) In the case of vehicles, not only is the investment much more significant but the cost can be somewhat justified by longer oil change intervals.

Having said all that, I don't disagree with you and always recommend synthetic for small engines.


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## rickwhoo (Sep 18, 2017)

Tony P. said:


> Rick, I use synthetic as well but I'll answer the question. Although there are several reasons, the primary one is cost. Comparing equivalents, Mobil synthetic ($9 / quart) can cost more than twice as much as Mobil conventional ($4 / quart) motor oil. While this isn't significant in the whole world of things, it's also difficult to justify on the basis of established benefits. (For example, someone with a 50' driveway may not get his snow blower more than warmed up by the time he's finished.) In the case of vehicles, not only is the investment much more significant but the cost can be somewhat justified by longer oil change intervals.
> 
> Having said all that, I don't disagree with you and always recommend synthetic for small engines.


I'm running to the store for synthetic oil for my first oil change on my Blower. It has a capacity of 37.2 oz. I have to buy 2 quarts and use just over one quart. 32oz. in one quart. Why couldn't they keep it at 32oz...


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

37.2 oz appears to be 1.1L, so it seems like they picked a nice even number. Just that they did it in units that no one uses


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

RedOctobyr said:


> 37.2 oz appears to be 1.1L, so it seems like they picked a nice even number. Just that they did it in units that no one uses


Great point! Only 95% of the world uses metric, but who's counting.:wink2:


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## jrcjr (Sep 23, 2017)

I'm using Castrol 5w30 in my old 70s/80s Ariens ST 270. 

I figure it several ways:
- Oils have changed a lot since the oil was specified for my machine. They're engineered with better anti-frothing agents at this point.
- The 5w20 that was specified for my machine was specified to cover much colder areas than Toledo, Ohio.
- Some wear has occurred in the past 30-40 years of use and a slightly heavier oil is likely within spec considering the wear.
- It starts easier now with the 5w30 than when I got it a couple years ago from my Uncle after he got it from his neighbor. (Two easy pulls maximum.)


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## Lunta (Dec 14, 2017)

RedOctobyr said:


> Just that they did it in units that no one uses


Best laugh of the day! :grin:


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I have an oil question. Tecumseh says 5w30 SF or SJ. I have 2 cases of 5w30 SN. I've always heard that any type with a later type is fine to use is that a fact? Is it ok to use this oil? Toyota


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

In snowblowers, it is recommended to use a Full Synthetic 5W30 .... I don't believe that Toyota oil is a Full Synthetic .... I don't read that anywhere on the bottle.


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