# Fixing stuck fuel shutoff on Snotek 24"



## junk2k06 (Feb 7, 2014)

I have 24" Snotek with 208cc LCT motor that I have purchased in 2011 from Homedepot. It was a big hassle to get it at home, but that was another story. Ever since I got it, it always had nagging problem to start, usually 10 pulls start it, electric start was better, I can start after about 5-6 push. Once started, it runs like a champ.
I was suppose to check it under warranty but lack of snow and the associated cost of having it hauled to the repair shop hold me off.
Now, as I am using it every day, I need to get the problem fixed. Arien's customer service was great and their immediate diagnostics was adjust valve gap.
However, I thought to check the carb. LCT manual is bare metal. So pulled down the nut marked by red lines.https://www.dropbox.com/s/6iv3yvzovrhl4wk/20140206_215039.jpg








As soon as I did it, I saw gas is coming out very rapidly out of that opening even though the fuel shutoff is completely closed. I think it should not happen. My theory is, because of this, the carb is getting overfilled with gas and that is why starting the engine is so difficult.
I am 100% noob when it comes to engine, but I am a quick learner. I will really appreciate for some guidance to replace the fuel shutoff and eventually fix the starting issue.


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## Big Fish Billy (Feb 6, 2014)

The screw you have outlined is the drain for the carb bowl, it will also drain all the fuel in the line from the tank, even if your fuel shutoff is off, so you may see more fuel than you might think. To see if your shutoff is working, put it on off, then remove the hose from it to the carb, and see if it indeed is off. If not take it off and soak it in WD-40 or PB blaster and get it working. In any case the float and needle in the carburetor should hold the fuel back and not flood the engine. To be safe always shut the fuel off when not in use....and remember to turn it back on when you try to start up the next time.


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

Hi Junk2k06
Your photo looks to be the bottom of your carburetor bowl. Your gas shut-off valve prevents fuel from leaving your gas tank. It doesn't affect fuel downstream from the tank...in your fuel lines, and in your carburetor bowl. The bowl is like a mini "tank." It holds a couple of ounces of fuel. The nut you removed drains your carburetor bowl. Your primary shut-off valve is most likely working just fine. Your hard starting condition is a separate issue. MH


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## junk2k06 (Feb 7, 2014)

Thanks guys. I was under the impression that the fuel shut-off valve kills flow of gas when in off position. See the image from LCT, and the manual specifically tells to open the fuel control valve before starting the engine.








Do you guys still think the fuel control valve actually does not control flow of fuel downstream?


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## Colored Eggs (Dec 7, 2012)

Its a wonder how much fuel can be stuck in the carb bowl and fuel lines if your not familiar with it. As the rest have said that its draining all the tubes from the carb to the shut off. If it doesn't stop after a few minutes than your fuel shutoff is defective which I probably would doubt with the engine you have. Easy way to test would be to start you engine and to shut the fuel off and to see if it dies. If it doesn't than your shut off is defective. The best way I can say it is if you squeeze a hose in the middle. All the water will stay on one end but any hose after where you squeeze will be empty as the water can drain out.


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## junk2k06 (Feb 7, 2014)

I will check back again tomorrow since it almost too late to run a engine out there. However, I took the gas line off of the carb assembly and it seems that there is a steady stream of gas coming out with no slowing down. Flow rate is low for the kind of tubing is used, but I do not have any point of reference either.
My snowblower generally keeps on running for over 5 minutes even when the shut-off is turned off. That was not the case with any of my other small engines (generac and Champion chonda- they shutoff within couple minutes).


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

So you'll check out the valve later.

Getting back to the hard starting, what is the exact procedure you are using. Full choke ?? two three pumps primer ?? pull a couple times and prime again ??


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## junk2k06 (Feb 7, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> So you'll check out the valve later.
> 
> Getting back to the hard starting, what is the exact procedure you are using. Full choke ?? two three pumps primer ?? pull a couple times and prime again ??


That's exactly how I do it. Full choke, prime 3 times, pull 2-3 times and repeat the whole cycle until I get tired and use electric starter.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If you have a carb bowl full of fuel and you are doing that I'd guess it's the passages in the carb that are blocked and you need to pull the carb apart and soak it and then blow it out real well or go a step further and wire out all the passages.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I'd check the primer line.


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## BB Cub (Jan 10, 2012)

I would check your primer hose. mine is 3 years old and I had to replace my primer hose. if your gas tank is almost empty. set it up on the front bucket and you can see the hose . to start mine I press primer 3 times with full choke and it will start with 1 pull.gayland


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## BB Cub (Jan 10, 2012)

you can get a piece of hose at a auto parts store or maybe hardware store.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

Those primer lines crack making it ineffective. They push a puff of air into the carb bowl, forcing some fuel up through the jet.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

db9938 said:


> I'd check the primer line.


I'm with db9938, sometimes we over think it. On my recent purchase of a second 1032 I went in to replace the fuel and primer line for maintenance and to add a filter and shut off only to find out the primer line wasn't connected to the carburetor.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Gas leaking out of the carb bowl usually has nothing to do with the primer..
Gas leaking out of the carb bowl is usually due to a stuck float.
A stuck float is due to "bad gas"..
"bad gas" is caused by ethanol in gas, and just general low quality gas we are offered these days.
"bad gas" is also caused by gas being left too long in the machine, like over the summer, causing "varnish" to form and gunking things up..
or left in the gas can too long before being used..like a month or two or more..
(one month is *probably* fine..but not always..two months sitting in the gas can is usually too long..)

Lots of things cause "bad gas"..but the solution to all of the above is, cleaning the carb.

I had a stuck float on my '71 Ariens, causing gas to leak right out the carb bowl..fixed it by cleaning the carb..The primer line isnt even hooked up, and has never even been used.(in the 5 years I have owned the machine anyway) The primer is not actually necessary to start or use the machine. It helps with starting, but its not an absolute requirement.

Scot


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## mkd (Dec 31, 2013)

the primer should be pushed and held one second between each of the three prime strokes on a cold engine. throttle to be set on high speed, choke set to full choke, gas shutoff open and ignition key on. if the primer bulb, hoses, and float bowl gasket to carb are not mechanically sound and leaking ease of cold start could be affected. to check the primer line all the way to the carb disconect the primer tube at carb, plug the end of the tube and press the primer bulb to see if it holds air. if it bleeds down it's leaking somewhere.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

sscotsman said:


> Gas leaking out of the carb bowl is usually due to a stuck float.
> A stuck float is due to "bad gas".Scot


His gas leaking was described in the first post and it was from him removing the carb's bowl drain screw. He was commenting on the fact that having the gas valve in "Off", should so much fuel come out. Not that gas was actually leaking out of the carb.

As for the primer. I'm really happy to have them as anything I own has a hard time starting when it's really cold. The OP outlined what he goes through trying to start it and it sure sounds like something giving it a little extra gas would help it start easier and with less pulls.


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## JayRusso (Feb 2, 2014)

*Same here*

I've got a Compact 22 with the same engine and mine has done the same thing since the beginning (1.5 years). The way to confirm that fuel shutoff doesn't work is to shut off the fuel and try to run it dry. Mine will never die, meaning fuel will continue to flow. Hasn't been an issue for me so far, but at the end of the season, I plan to bring it in for warranty repair.

- Jay


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