# BOB-CAT resurrection



## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

After my recent expenditure on my relatively new Simplicity, I decided to drag the BOB-CAT out of the snowbank and treat it to a little restoration.
The reason I parked it in the first place was because it only has a 2-speed transmission and seemed painfully slow to back up and transport.
My thoughts are that I should rebuild or refurbish the engine/drivetrain. Treat it to some new tires and possibly build a new longer chute and add teeth to the auger. I have to resize pics before I can post them. Any thoughts on other possible mods would be appreciated.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Some pics.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

Nice machine. I like the exposed pulleys and drive mechanism on these. Are parts difficult to find?


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

There are no exposed belts when all the guards are in place. The auger and impeller however do keep running unless you manually disengage the lever. I have not gotten as far as looking for parts yet, so I don't know.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Everything seems to be in pretty good shape inside. one of the chains is quite loose and will skip cogs. i will have to see if i can get a 1/2 link for it.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I have worked my way down to the offending chain. It looks to me like someone may have replaced it without taking the machine apart. there is no way someone would install a chain this loose if they had proper access.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

a feature I thought was interesting on them is you can adjust tension for the auger/secondary to slip.. no shear bolts to shear and no gear box. On that loose chain- I don't know.. but make sure either shaft isn't bolted in slots to get adjustment. if so, you could see maybe from outside of frame- just a thought.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

The three main shafts are not adjustable. The only one that can be adjusted is the idler/tensioner shaft on the forward drive chain, which is on the right in this pic.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Today, I fixed the Fwd-Rev shifter which would not stay in gear. The bolt that holds the ball&spring in place had fallen out and mangled the low-range chain and dented the bottom of the case at some point previous to my ownership. The bracket that mounts the ball & detent setup was only fixed with two bolts, and could swivel away enough to lose the ball. Also the 1/8" thick flat bracket was bent, which could also drop the ball.
I added tabs and two more bolts and a gusset to keep the bracket from twisting or bending. I added another cotterpin farther down the shaft to lessen the wear on the original cotterpin. I am also going to drill and pin the bolt, once it's adjusted, that holds the ball in place so it cannot come out again.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Holy cow of re-engineering!

Good work.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

At lest it has a master link and you can pull the chain and take a link or two out.


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

Nice looking welds GMH. What are you using for equipment? MH


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Miller Maxstar 150 STL Tig unit.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Restore*

Nice to see you bring that one back to life. Looking good so far.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I've been mucking with these impeller bearings the last couple nights, trying to coerce them off. They don't come off, and although they spin real nice, they sound dry to me. I have bought newer ones, since the originals are discontinued. Luckily, the bolt pattern is identical and all I have to do is enlarge the center hole. Any one have a trick for splitting these bearings off without harming the shaft?


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Light touch with a dremel cut-off wheel, and a deft touch with cold chisel to finish it...


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Can you get a puller on it ?? You can get a puller as a loaner tool from most auto pparts stores.
Two jaw or three, heat it up some, saturate it with PB Blaster and give the puller a try.
.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i would drill throuh the inner and out races of the bearing, dont listen to the guy who said to use a puller unless you want to damage the retainer and get a replacement, it will bend. you could try soaking it overnight in kroil or pb blaster overnight. when it finally does come off, get a brush on type antiseize and if you ever have to take it apart again the parts will just slide right off. i use this or grease when i reinstall auger rakes and they will always slide right off


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Never mind


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

43128 , In the picture the OP put up it has a bearing with new bearing retainer halves and above that is the bearing retainer with the set screw. What is it he'd damage that he needs ?? The bearing retainer is already off and the bearing retainer halves are new ??


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

After cutting, grinding, chiseling and beating on them with a f*%#ing hammer, I have gotten rid of the bearings. The good news is that the holes in the auger housing are big enough to accept the new bearings and mounting plates, so this is a straight bolt in-update.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That is so sweet that you don't have to cut the housing to get them in !!!
I'm just beginning on an Ariens 732 teardown and I'm trying to source parts too. Hate when you can't find something and have to start fabricating. But, given some time and patience you can usually make something work and at times it turns out better. Have to do that on my Craftsmans. Both the axle and auger bushings were plastic. Upgrading to a ball bearings similar to yours but I do need to enlarge the holes :-(


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I have just ordered some oil hole caps and some sprockets from McMaster-Carr. They will have pretty much anything you need. They wouldn't sell privately though, so I had to go through the business. Edit: I am impressed with the service at Mc-C, ordered on wednesday, received the next day. Meanwhile, my parts that I ordered from a local supplier on tuesday still have not made it here from Regina.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

*Paint and Powder*

I have been painting and powder coating some of the parts while I am waiting for some sprockets. There was almost no rust on the drive section, so I am just rattle canning it after blasting it to bare metal. The auger section I will prime with epoxy when I get it back from the blaster. I also cut some new skid shoes and ordered a set of X-Tracs.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

Awsome job GMH.. You are really going the full 9 yards in this project! Can't wait to see the end result.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

GMH you are a true craftsman. 
You and Geno both bring great things to this forum sharing your skills and determination. Thank you.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

GMH said:


> I have just ordered some oil hole caps and some sprockets from McMaster-Carr.


Why not just use a grease zerk in there and hit it with a grease gun once or twice a season ?? Easy to get at any auto parts or hardware store.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I am not a mechanic, but I think grease is for ball or roller bearings.Those are bronze oil-lite bushings in post #23. The spherical bushing holder is filled with a felt-like material which absorbs the oil and transfers it to the bushing, which it soaks through to provide a thin film of oil for the shaft to ride on.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Good point. The bushings I've seen on my machines don't have anything like that so I figured using grease would keep it lubed longer. And keep water out.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Today, I was going to use epoxy primer sealer for the auger case, but when I mixed the product that I had just bought according to the ratios, it didn't want to mix. The solids settled out instantly, so there was no way I was using it. I used the aerosol Rust Check primer instead. 
I also fixed the broken auger drive bracket.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Nice and shiney. (thumbsup)
You going to clear coat? 

Man, I wouldn't want to use it, maybe just put it on display.  
Needs some flames on the side of the housing.  (thumbsup)


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

*flames*

thats looks awesome, and honestly i completely agree wits eds f;lame idea, even it was a joke or not. and besides, flames on the side always increase performance. i would return it to the store and see what they dp about it not mixing, some products just wont mix unless its warm outside


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I was serious, but I would do some thicker black flames outline around the black flames with a red/orange pinstriping.
The black goes with the yellow and the red/orange would accent it.

Either that or go with red/orange flames and add some black smoke coming off them. 

But the yellow/black is Caterpillars colors and it is a Bob Cat.
I am a Catman. 
My choice of a big rigs motor has always been Caterpillars diesels.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I'm not really into flames. I am checking into getting the original decals copied. I know the big side one is available from Steve. A nice Bob-Cat mural might be nice.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Fabbed a new scraper bar today out of some 1/4"x1-1/2" s/s flat bar. I used my drill press (belts loosened and turned by hand) to make sure all my holes are tapped straight. Now I just have to spend an hour or so with a grinder to sharpen it up.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Last night I Powder-coated some more of the original nuts and bolts and installed the new scraper bar and skid shoes. I beveled the edge on the bar with a variable speed grinder set at a slow speed so as not to overheat the edge once it started to get thin.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

That is some exceptionally fine work. I really look forward to that first video of this old iron running and chewing threw some fresh new powder.


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## sj701 (Jan 23, 2014)

Did you ever get it fully assembled? That is some fine work you have done to bring that blower back to life. I wish I had the time to do a full restore on mine but for now they are mechanically put back together but not lookers like yours will be.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks for your interest. I am still working on it now and then. I had some setbacks due to the machinist not centering the new sprockets on the shaft (he centered them on the outside of the hub), so two of the chains get very taught at one point in their rotation. He must have taken some material off the face of one of the hubs also as the sprocket is moved over, so that I had to grind a fair bit off of the center bracket for clearance. 
Anyway, I have spent enough on it, so I will let the chains work themselves in. I also have a notion of turning it into a plow instead of a blower, since I think it would be handy for smaller snowfalls.
I will post more when I do something with it.


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## AL- (Oct 27, 2014)

GMH said:


> Thanks for your interest. I am still working on it now and then. I had some setbacks due to the machinist not centering the new sprockets on the shaft (he centered them on the outside of the hub), so two of the chains get very taught at one point in their rotation. He must have taken some material off the face of one of the hubs also as the sprocket is moved over, so that I had to grind a fair bit off of the center bracket for clearance.
> Anyway, I have spent enough on it, so I will let the chains work themselves in. I also have a notion of turning it into a plow instead of a blower, since I think it would be handy for smaller snowfalls.
> I will post more when I do something with it.


Tough luck on the sprockets. Were these stock sprockets? I know TSC sells some sprockets, but I wondered if there are other sources for sprockets? 
I read somewhere that if the chain is loose and chain and sprockets are worn, if the wear is not too bad then its a good idea to put on a new chain and adjust it. If you adjust both a worn chain and sprocket then the worn chain will really continue to do a number on the sprockets.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

They were new from McMaster-Carr, but needed to be machined to fit the hubs. New chain also from Princess Auto. There is no way to adjust the tension on these. The axle and jackshaft are fixed. Only one chain out of four is adjustable and that one is fine.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

*Sorry*

Sorry about the lack of progress on this project, but other crap has taken priority...and I'm lazy. 
Anyhow, I want to get back to it and was lapping the valves since I have the head off. This engine must have been worked on before, because there is some marring inside the intake valve area. There are also two different style valve keepers. Is it normal to have two styles? I think the exhaust valve guide may need replacing also. It looks corroded or chewed up? How bad does it look? Is this something I can do, or do I need the services of a machine shop?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:moved:


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I think I may just put it back together the way it is. I cleaned the valves and lapped them. I understand special reamers are needed to change the valve guide.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

GMH said:


> There are also two different style valve keepers. Is it normal to have two styles?


I was just wondering the same thing...in the middle of a tear-down 1970 170000 series briggs where the exhaust uses a collar retainer while the intake uses the simple slide-retainer. 

It seems like this is normal since the exhaust spring is heavier (per the L-head service manual)...so don't mix-n-match.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Apparently the exhaust valve uses a rotator type retainer that rotates the valve slightly so that it does not seat in the same position every time, thus preventing burning.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

*Obsolete starter repair*

Here is a link to my starter repair.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-forum/79418-7hp-briggs-stratton-starter.html


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## Brother Al (Nov 12, 2015)

Correct on your last post... this was done to prevent valve damage and allow even wear. Briggs built them to last back then. **** reliable engines because of simple & effective engineering ideas. Be shocked if many of these newer engines can run in 30 to 50 years.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

My fuel tank is so rusty that I decided to build a new one out of 20 guage stainless. I am using a 1-1/4" nipple for the filler spout and a threaded pvc cap. I cut a slug out of 3/16 stainless and welded it to the bottom. I will tap that for 1/8 NPT so I can thread in the petcock.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Nice work! If you haven't buttoned it up yet, you might consider a second nipple for a fuel dump valve.


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## Brother Al (Nov 12, 2015)

Very Nice Craftsmanship!


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

db9938 said:


> Nice work! If you haven't buttoned it up yet, you might consider a second nipple for a fuel dump valve.


 I like that idea! And thanks or the compliments folks! I added second outlet... I may just put a plug in it for now.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

*Vented cap*

I tried cutting the PVC cap down but due to the tapered threads, it would not fit anymore. I didn't like the idea of just drilling hole in the cap for a vent so I glued two part caps together and used the vent/gasket combo from the original. I think it will work dandy, as long as the gasoline doesn't harm the PVC. I found a chart online that says it has moderate resistance to gasoline, so I guess time will tell.
P.S. I will be flipping those straps 180 degrees so I don't lose my knuckles on them.:icon_whistling:


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Not to take anything away from your craftsmanship, you do some really nice work, but would an ordinary lawn mower type cap work?

Might be worth a thought, if the PVC does not hold up.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I never even thought of trying it till your post, I just assumed NPT would be different than the gas cap (it doesn't fit ). The original cap slides right over top of the 1-1/4" NPT. Just like garden hose and 3/4"NPT are very close but different. If the PVC does not hold up, then I will get a stainless steel cap and repeat the above procedure.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Well this is the second or third time I went to put the recoil cover on AFTER I had all the head bolts torqued down :banghead:. This seems like a really dumb design on B&S's part. A little simple trimming of the intake/exhaust shroud and I am able to slide the recoil cover on without disturbing the head bolts. :smile: I should have tack welded the recoil bolt heads inside the cover so that I could take the recoil section off without removing the entire cover also.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Well I finally got my blasting cabinet working properly again an have been going at the main guard for a couple hours (lots of rust pits). I had to weld up a couple minor cracks and screw holes after I had it clean enough to see them. I also got the auger and auger driveshaft installed. I had to straighten the main auger shaft and replace a 1" piece along with the stub shaft on the drive sprocket. I debated adding "teeth" to the auger, but that can be done later if I deem it necessary? 
Today, I want to mount the engine and maybe try to start it. But first I want to do a pressure test on the fuel tank I built. I don't want to have to repair any minor leak after I have put gas in it!:eeek:


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## thestonecarver (Jan 22, 2013)

*Chute?*



GMH said:


> After my recent expenditure on my relatively new Simplicity, I decided to drag the BOB-CAT out of the snowbank and treat it to a little restoration.
> The reason I parked it in the first place was because it only has a 2-speed transmission and seemed painfully slow to back up and transport.
> My thoughts are that I should rebuild or refurbish the engine/drivetrain. Treat it to some new tires and possibly build a new longer chute and add teeth to the auger. I have to resize pics before I can post them. Any thoughts on other possible mods would be appreciated.



Just curious but why a longer chute?


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

After seeing all the custom work you did, I am definitely sending all my stainless fabrication work to you. For that matter, all my metal work. I'm good with wood, but the garage is so full of wood machines, no room for metal work. 

I had to make a choice, and my wife didn't want stainless steel furniture.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

:icon_scratch:


thestonecarver said:


> Just curious but why a longer chute?


I have shelved that idea, I originally thought it would give more distance. I no longer think it would be worth the effort. The same goes for the teeth, at this point I have work to do that is more of a priority.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

:icon_smile_big:


skutflut said:


> I had to make a choice, and my wife didn't want stainless steel furniture.


It's only slightly less comfortable than wooden furniture!


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

GMH said:


> :icon_smile_big:
> It's only slightly less comfortable than wooden furniture!


Ya, but to get nice red mahogany finish and grain on stainless is a pure PITA, not to mention dovetail joints on the drawers.


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## robV (Nov 11, 2015)

Great work, it's turning out really nice.


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## toroused (Mar 1, 2015)

What brand of paint did you end up going with?


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I got a couple cans of yellow from the caterpillar dealer, and then I found some Rust Check in the same color at Canadian Tire. The black is Tremclad, but most of the smaller parts I powder-coated.


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