# carburetor for craftsman 536.886540 thrower



## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Hi all...nice to revisit this great site. I am looking to replace my old carburetor 632107A. But I see many listed on different sites. My model number is 536.886540. There are also many different prices. Would a non-pricey carb be ok to purchase, or a medium pricey, or a high end carb. What would you good folks recommend? Of course I would like to purchase a good/quality carb for a decent non pricy cost but am not to sure the best way to go or is necessary. 

Thanks in advance.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

The Chinese carbs are almost the same. Buy one using your carb # with adjustable jet on the bottom. The downside, they all are aluminum carburetors but most come with a steel bowl rather than aluminum.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Hi JL...I have this number stamped on the carb 142863M. I tried to locate online but do not get any hits using that number. Could it be the wrong number for the card and if so where could it be located on the carb? I would like to purchase a Tecumseh carb but they are pricey. With that said, if you or others would be so kind to comment:
1. Is there a big difference between a cheaper carb or a pricey carb?
2. Is a cheaper carb just as adequate as a pricery one?
3. If so, what cheaper carb would be suggested for me to purchase and on what site...Chinese or other?

I am looking to purchase as we speak. So if anyone has an immediate suggestion, please let me know. 

Thanks again.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I put a cheapo carb on my Craftsman, still working good, this will be the fourth season now.
$13 bucks or so, my original just needed good cleaning and I now have it as a spare.
An original one would have cost around $70 when I bought the cheapo.
I would try the cheapo.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Search for 632107, that is your carb number, and any alternative carb numbers but it must have an adjustable needle on the bottom. The number 536. Is Craftsman model number, the 142 is a die-cast number. There may be an engine on a sticker on the side of the flywheel shroud or imprinted on the top.

I clean the carbs first, some on here do also, it can be as simple as running a carb cleaner through, or removing and using a spray carb cleaner, some include using a welder's tip cleaner, all can be successful, the ultimate is using an ultrasonic cleaner.

The best carburetor is the one OEM on the snowblower. But when I need a carb, I buy Chinese, Amazon or eBay. 4 years ago a customer wanted the original for $78. When it came, though it was imprinted with Tecumseh, it was cheaper than the OEM and I don't know if it was any better than the Chinese. Only the jets, needle valves, were better.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Thanks JLawrence and Big Ed for hanging in there with me and all those who have been so kind to assist throughout this thread. I am currently ready to pull the trigger on a * QAZAKY Adjustable Carburetor Compatible with Tecumseh 632107 632378 632536 640084 640105 640299 632107A 632378A 640084A 640084B on Amazon. *The cost is 19.99 with a lot of included items and a cheaper one for about 13.00 with just an included gasket. The QAZAKY comes with a180 days’ carefree return, BUY WITH CONFIDENCE!

A couple things: Buy or not buy? Any other carb you would suggest? Would the quality be sufficient? 

**Would this carb require an adjustment or are they already adjusted so all I have to do is install it?

If anyone can get back to me as soon as possible with your comments and suggestions I would sure appreciate it.

Thanks in advance...you are all so kind to assist.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I would go with the $13.00 carb, as all the extra items (gas line, in line filter, shut off valve etc.) with the $19.99 carb are usually junk and should not be used IMHO.

The adjustable carb you are ordering will have to be "dialed in" to get the engine running smoothly. There are many threads on the forum and You Tube videos on this.
Usually you start with the high speed and idle circuit screws set 1 1/2 turns out and go from there.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Agree with Ziggy, the extras are poor quality, go with just the carb.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just the Carb, unless some have new knobs if you need them, but the other stuff is usually junk as mentioned.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

thanks guys...I will be receiving the carb in about 4 days. It will take me about a day to install and hopefully adjust the card. Thanks for the carb adjustment video...that will help. Of course, if I am able to install and adjust correctly, then the next step will be to see it the blower throws snow under a load of snow.

Anyway I will stay on this thread as I install, adjust and throw snow after my next significant snow storm. 

Thanks again to all of you kind folks for your interest on my behalf. I will let you know of my progress and/or additional questions/assistance.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Hi guys...well I installed the new carb on the snowblower. It looks like all is in order. BUT the darn thing will not start. It just cranks and cranks. Please note that when I push in the drain knob under the bowl, gas does come out and it looks clean. When I push the prime button I do hear that distinct sound as if it appears to be working.

Before starting I placed gas in the tank...pushed the prime button 5 times, placed the throttle on RUN and the Choke to FULL. Plugged in power and pushed the electric knob. Engine just cranks.

What did I do wrong? I respectfully request your thoughts on the matter as to what is going on and a possible solution to get my blower running.

You have all been so helpful and I thank you again for your assistance.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Hi again all. I let the blower sit for about a half hour and still will not start. If this means anything, I did notice gas blowing out the exhaust holes. Not much but definitely fluid. 

This is a new Chinese carb. Do I need to follow the adjustment steps found in my manual and viewed on YOUTUBE? I kinda assumed that the carb was ready to go and would start without a problem.

I am at a loss as to what is going on.

Thanks again for your help


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Try less choke. But I think something is amiss


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Hi Tony-chicago...and all interested folks. Please also note that when I have the choke in the full position and the butterfly open, and press the electric starter, I notice gas , not very much, coming out the choke hole with the butterfly open. Perhaps the carb is getting to much gas going to it. There is gas in the bowl.

New development in line with Tony-chicago. I waited for awhile and placed the choke knob to the OFF position...pressed the starter button, and the darn thing started but barely. It barely has any idle speed and sputters. So, as I mentioned above, I did not perform any adjustments per manual and YOU TUBE since I assumed that the carb was ready to go.

But with this little ray of hope, do you think that I do need to complete adjustments as outlined in the manual and found on YOUTUBE?

Thanks again for your advice and comments...appreciate it.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Wonder if the float is really high. Hopefully an expert will come around soon.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Hi all...thanks for all of your valuable comments and advice. OK...installed new cheapo Chinese carb on my blower and could not get it started...just cranked. Cleaned plug and ensured correct gap. Had spark. Adjusted carb to manual specs. Had a friend come over as I figured two minds are better than one. Attempted start. Would not start...just cranked. Anyway, took out plug and gas was on plug. This indicated that the carb/engine was flooded. Cleaned the plug and waited for awhile for the flooding before attempting another go at it. Pressed the starter and again would not start. But we noticed that this time we saw gas oozing out of the spark plug hole. Took out the plug...cleaned the plug again. Reinstalled the plug but this time I applied more torque to make it pretty snug and tight. The manual does say to torque the plug 18-23 ft lbs.

Following this, I re-adjusted the carb. I pressed the sarter and the blower started and stayed started and there was no sign of gas oozing out the spark plug hole. This allowed me time to tweak the adjustments. I am now happy to say that the blower is now starting on command and running pretty good. My only concern now is when it snows and the blower is under a load. 

So, I guess the culprit was a flooded engine because the plug was not torqued enough. This caused gas to ooze out the spark plug hole and foul the spark plug with gas and cause a flooded engine. (something like that) This sounds simple to diagnose but it caused me grief and aggravation. I hope that this may resolve my issue. We shall see.

Anyway thanks again. You are all so kind to assist and take the time to comment and advise.

Sincerely


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

As you work more on these small engines, you will achieve a basic skill set moving forward .... Even the smallest stupid little things can still fool use old timers, as we become to complacent.


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## nitehawk55 (Sep 9, 2021)

May have been an issue with the needle not seating at first and it flooded . Glad you got it going . Keep us posted!


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