# Trying to remove scraper bar



## aggriffin3 (Mar 30, 2014)

I have a older 835 Gilson that I am trying to remove the scraper bar. The bolt heads are flat and even with penetrating oil, I cant get the nuts off without turning the bolts while I turn the wrench. Nothing to grab onto as far as the bolt (as they are flat). Any tricks that I might try? Also, should the bar be on the inside or outside of the Auger box? This one has it on the outside, but I have seen other makes and models the other way around. 

Thanks

Art


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Usually they are carriage bolts and heavily rusted on and ground down. I generally cut them off as new ones are cheap and easy to get at any hardware store. Be careful trying to unscrew them as they might be twisting the square holes in the frame and stripping them out.

I bought one of those cheap $15 Harbor Freight angle grinders and a cheap pack of discs for it. Some of the best money I have ever spent.


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

angle grinder with a cutoff disc, 11.99 at hft with 20% coupon plus another 8 bucks or so for the cutoff wheels.

4-1/2 in. 40 Grit Metal Cut-off Wheel 10 Pc

4-1/2 in. 4.3 Amp Angle Grinder


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Hah, 3 posts all with the same time stamp and all with the same solution.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

For the nuts issue, if you have the room, cut the nut and bolt right in the midle, the nut will split and the bolt would come off (you can use a saw or a cut-off tool). If this does not work, grind the remaining part of the head of the bolt and it will come apart. Or you can drill the center of the head of the bolt to the size of the threaded part of the bolt and it will come apart.
I've seen all scraper bars on the front side of the housing.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The grinder :Heavy Duty 4-1/2" Angle Grinder

Or . . . you can use a hacksaw if you have one laying around to cut the nuts in half too.


----------



## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

Your 835 circa 1967-69 will be a tough customer. 

If you want to try to salvage the originals here is what I do:
1) Spray with Kroil, PB Blaster etc.
2) Use a disc grinder to remove the protruding bolt, this will eliminate the buggered up threads.
3) More penetrating lubricant
4) Clamp the bolt with a pair of special pliers














5) Remove with a 6 point socket on a ratchet or impact wrench
6) If that does not do the trick then blow it away with a grinder, cold chisel or air hammer. 
7) Some will be held firmly but will snap rather than unscrew.
8) Heat should help too

Replacements found here.

Pete


----------



## sidegrinder (Apr 18, 2015)

Just one more reason to own a smoke wrench. Or make friend with someone who owns one...


----------



## Snoopy#1 (Mar 21, 2021)

One busted off one forgetting righty tighty lefty loosey the rest were tough. I wedged a hefty pry bar between the box and scraper bar so not to strip out the holes in the box when I got the 30 year old nuts 1/2 loose and that did it after another shot of PB blaster and the socket


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

If the heads are stripped, worn down, from abrasion on the asphalt or concrete, it was too long before adjustment or replacement was performed. 

Nice thing about welding, Arc or MIG, you can weld on another edge, sometimes without removing the old edge if there's enough edge left.

I loosen them with a ratchet hoping they come loose, if not hoping they break, snap off, if not I use a vice grips for the same, then.... this is the reason I own a oxy-acetylene torch. Heat, MAPP, Propane, works well for loosening if you need to use a vise grip. 

When installing use Never-Seize.


----------



## Snoopy#1 (Mar 21, 2021)

In hindsight thats what I should of tried after the first one snapped.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Snoopy#1 said:


> In hindsight thats what I should of tried after the first one snapped.


Im doing the same thing now. with the outrageous cost of scraper bars Im starting to make my own. with my old one I just cut all the studs down, drilled out the holes and installed carriage style bolts and tack welded the heads to bar. a lot less work.


----------



## Snoopy#1 (Mar 21, 2021)

Mine were able to be loosened even after 30 years I just had to get a bar in there so the square holes caught the bolt and the ratchet could be effective.


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

sidegrinder said:


> Just one more reason to own a smoke wrench. Or make friend with someone who owns one...


or plasma torch


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I usually tilt them back and use an air cut off tool.

(Many times, if a carriage bolt hole has rounded, I have used a serrated interior washer under the carriage bolt head prior to installation, usually gives it enough bite from the head spinning while tightening it up.)


----------



## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

A nut splitter tool works well and requires little effort.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

it's amazing that removing a scraper bar can be this complicated.....


----------



## Snoopy#1 (Mar 21, 2021)

After I clean mine up and use new stainless steel bolts and washers Ill never have to take off this monster for quite a while. That nut splitter is cool!


----------

