# Is anybody familiar with Kawasaki FB460 engines...?



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I have what seems to be a Kawasaki FB460 engine (it is insatalled on a small commercial walk behind mower/replaced a B&S engine).
There are no numbers anywhere (the cover is missing the decalls and painted black).
I would like to be able to identify the engine first, if it is a 12HP, 12.5HP, or 14HP.

The main issue that I have is a no start/very hard to start cold, if you remove the air filter and cover it is easier to start, but still it can take anywhere from 5 to 10 pulls to get it running.
When the engine is warm it starts right up on first pull.
I have cleaned the tank an added fresh fuel, changed the fuel filter and hoses, removed, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and reinstalled carburetor along with all the intake and carb gaskets. Changed engine oil and filter.
I believed I also changed the spark plug.

Im I missing something?
What woul be my next step?
What would be a good way to check compression since it does not have electric start, and what should be an acceptable value.

Any help would be appreciated.
:smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Not familiar with that exact model, but I have worked on a few Kawasaki carbs (Mikuni). I have one on my JD LX188. They all had a pilot jet on the top of the carb that needed to be clear. Some were not threaded, but held in by a separate clip that was screwed on top of the brass jet. My LX was threaded. If you took apart the carb, I assume you noticed they have quite the assortment of main jet pieces:smiley-confused009:. There's a little short jet, then the holder, then the tube that all thread out of the main stalk. On one push mower, the linkage that controlled the choke had a "v" bend in it that was basically the adjustment. After much cleaning and dinking around I found that to be the hard start problem. The choke butterfly was just not closing completely. A simple bending out of the "v" made it close, and she started right up. On my LX the choke linkage was straight and linked to the throttle plate (dash has one throttle/choke combo lever). It would occasionally hang up and not close also. According to the local parts place I use, the choke not closing fully is a common problem on the Mikuni/Kawasaki setups. I also had a bad carb solenoid on the LX. Worked sometimes, sometimes not. Good set of snipping pliers saved me $90 and all is good now.
Forgot, my LX is a 17hp, the others I worked on were smaller walk behind motors, but the carbs were very similar in setup


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

Use them for years on commercial mowers- one of the best engines Kawi made. It is a 12.5 hp. Make sure when you move the throttle to full (choke) position it is adjusted to actually give full choke like mentioned above- they need that full choke. Also might want to check the vave adjustment. If way off could cause hard start. P.S.- They use a igniter mounted on side of block that tend to go out after years of use..may be a issue down the road but I think it would have '0' spark if that went out- (not sure if they can get weak though so better let someone else answer on that).


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thank you both.

*Jtclays*, the carb is a mikuni looks like 32796-Z213. I had the pilot jet out (retained by a L clip and a screw), did notice the tripple set up on the main jet. The float was hanging too far down (assumming it is supposed to be leveled with the carb body), I happen to have another Kawi FB460 engine, so I took the float out of it and this sits level with the carb body. I read somewhere about the choke and it indeed was not closing all the way, I adjusted the linkage at the "V" section for it to fully close but it made no difference.
*Geno*, I think I can swap the igniter from my spare engine and recheck.
Depending on compression results I'll check the valve adjustment.

What is the proper procedure to do a compression check on it and what should I expect?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I found this site for a service manual
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

Not a mechanic here but ball park compression I'd say- 120 and above is good but I don't know what manual says. Will run on less though. To check/adjust valves just have piston on TDC on compression stroke. As far as doing compression check just put tester in plug hole and crank over (or pull over) WITH fuel valve turned off.. Make sure crank over for good 10 times or more before reading on dial in plug hole.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thank you both.
Surprisingle the manual says compression should not be less than 55psi (55psi is acceptable ?).
I think what I will do is a compression check, spark plug change and recheck.
If compression is too low, I will check the valve adjustment.
If compression is ok, I will change the igniter using the one from my spare engine.

I'll keep you posted with the results. Thanks again. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

interesting?.. maybe it has a decompression release valve built into it? - you could go to the mechanical repair section of Lawn Site (hope this is ok to say this).. They will have the answer for you. If it has the Decompression valve on cam it would be that low but that doesn't mean rings are bad. could do a leak-down test to get a better Idea. If it was mine I'd pull the valves-inspect them and inspect seats- then if ok lap them and re-install (done this on mine before-easy) then I'd adjust valves to specs and see how it starts and runs. But do the simple stuff first like make sure choke is operating to full choke, ect. I'd also try that other igniter.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Do you get any back pressure through the carb when you pull it over cold (have to remove the air filter to really tell and I think that has a goofy filter attachment on it)? Maybe the intake is not seating like Geno suggested checking.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I was just thinking, maybe Scot or Shryp should move us to re-power? I'm on different sites and being summer I kinda forgot we're just snowblowers here.
:wavetowel2:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thank you both.
*jtclays*, it does get quite a bit of backpressure thru the carb with the air filter removed, I just forgot to mention it, what would that mean?
*Geno*, I think I will go step by step from the simpler to the more complicated.

I'll keep you posted on any progress.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

_*Geno*_,
I am a member at MLF and MTF but I feel more confortable here, if I have to I will look for help on other sites, but I am hoping to find the answers here, after all there are members from those site here as well (just like myself) :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

The 'pressure' back up through the carb could be intake valve not seating. Carbon usually is on exhaust more so than intake but if was running rich- maybe. Do like you said.. easy stuff first.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

hs, I was just thinking a different section of us here, not that big a deal, or Scot would have said something already. I was always taught if you get back pressure through the carb the intake is not closing, either bad seat or stalk too long needs grinding,cleaning. An open intake would cause hard starts too if you confirmed a closed choke. I'd try that other ignition component also, especially since you have one right there. Wish I had extra engines sitting around. Need to talk to the wife about that I know Geno from other sites and he's usually spot on with his advice.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thank you both. 

I'll keep you posted on any progress. :smiley-confused009:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I'm switching gears a bit.
I am trying to bring my spare FB460V engine back to life, if everything works well, I'll swap the engine and take care of the currently installed engine later.

I'll keep updates on the progress.
:smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

My spare FB460V cleaned out nicely, went to turn the engine and the piston will not go all the way "up". Removed the cylinder head and inpected, found a few "corn" pieces keeping the piston from closing all the way.
Cleaned all the carbon from the cylinder head, block, intakes and valves as possible.
Checked valve clearance (spec is 0.1-0.16mm), found that exhaust has 0.11mm but intake has 0.04mm or less.
I'm thinking of removing both valves and set them to 0.15mm considering that as it "wears" out it is going to loose clearance.

What do you think? :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Considering the fact that it was fairly easy to remove the head and check the valve clearance on my spare FB460V engine, I went ahead and did the same to the FB460V engine that is installed on the mower.
I have a spring removal tool, valve suction cup, and valve grinding compound on order, maybe I'll get back to it next weekend.
I'll be lapping the valves, adjusting valve clearance properly and reassembling it.
I watch this video:




*Geno* and *jt*, you were right on the intake valve issue.
After I took de head off and set the engine at TDC on compresion stroke I found out that just like in the video I can turn the intake valve easily with my finger indicating that it is staying open and leaking compression (perhaps it closes when the engine is warm and that is why it starts right up....?)
I'll keep you posted on the repair progress of both engines..... :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Finally got back to work on my spare FB460V engine.

*Cleaned and decarboned combustion chamber, intake and exhaust ports.
*Ispected intake and exhaust valve guides, they have no play.
*Ispected cylinder wall, looks very good, can not feel a ridge at all.
*Cleaned intake and exhaust valves.
*Lap intake and exhaust valves properly.
*Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to .16mm as per specs.
*Replaced head gasket.
*Reassembled engine as needed.
*Changed engine oil.
*(Carburetor rebuild pending since there had been some water intrussion and some corrosion exists).

Checked starting condition (with borrowed carburetor): it started on first pull. :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:

Now to work on the engine that is mounted on the walk behind mover. I'll update the results on that engine.

Thanks again _*jt*_ and *Geno*.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Just finished the FB460V engine on my mower, as expected it starts on the very first pull now. :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:

I has a nice idle but surges at higher rpms (it had this condition before the valve adjustment), any idea on what to look for?. 
I cleaned the carburetor as best as I could. 
I have a clear fuel filter installed on it and fuel seems to be flowing too slow, I will look into that first.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

just soak it in a gallon bucket of carb cleaner. specifically look for a partially clogged main jet or a blocked hole on the emulsion tube


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