# International Cadet 265 problems



## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

I have begun to use my inherited International Cadet 265 snowblower for this winter. 

I was kindly informed (you guys are awesome) in my introduction thread that is an Ariens from the 1970's and rare. It belonged to my late grandfather who passed it to my father who gave it to me when it started having some issues as he was going to scrap it. I knew there was something special about it two years ago and it was in storage while I lived in an apartment. 

Now I have a corner lot and lots of sidewalk and driveway to clear. 

The body is in relatively good shape and will be getting restored next year. 

The issue is the engine: it just had a carburetor cleaning from a friend and now runs decent but is very hard to start. Tonight I had to pull it 26 times to get it running on a cold engine and 6 times to restart within 2 minutes of stopping. 

I am wondering if I should just buy a new snow blower for this winter (which I already assume Ariens is the best), attempt to locate parts to fix it or try to mount a new engine. Like I said, I want to keep it as it is a very nice machine.

At any rate, pulling 26 times to start it every other day to clear drifting and/or new snow is going to get old fast. 

Anyone have some advice? 

(I also looked at Scott's site but I think I might be a little over my head at the moment)


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Put a Harbor freight Predator 212cc on it. I got rid of my Tecumseh because it was hard to start. It will bolt right on. Do you have a dual shaft engine or a single shaft?. Really easy swap for a single shaft a bit harder for a dual shaft. Use the coupon code and the engine is only $89.99.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

If once it is started there are no problems-- smoking, leaking, and has plenty of power the. J would go for a new carb. The old one either was not cleaned out enough or there is corrosion that has made it unable to be reused.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

if you feel the work that needs to be done is over you head find a shop to do the repairs you are not comfortable doing


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Are you choking and priming it properly? Worst case is you can get a spray bottle with some gas in it and manually prime it when you go to start it. That should get it going on the first pull for you.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Your gap on the points could be off giving you a weak spark. You could need to replace them or carb not adjusted right


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

GustoGuy said:


> Put a Harbor freight Predator 212cc on it. I got rid of my Tecumseh because it was hard to start. It will bolt right on. Do you have a dual shaft engine or a single shaft?. Really easy swap for a single shaft a bit harder for a dual shaft. Use the coupon code and the engine is only $89.99.


 I second what Gusto said. For 89.99 you get a more powerful engine than you have on it now and they run great. I would keep the old Tecumseh and maybe tinker with it, but for reliability and performance you can't beat the predator for 89.99 dollars. It looks like you have a single shaft on it now so the swap will be very easy. you may have to move the chute handle but i think that is it. I have a newer CUB from 1984 and it now has an 11hp honda clone on it and it runs great. Carl


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

CarlB said:


> I second what Gusto said. For 89.99 you get a more powerful engine than you have on it now and they run great. I would keep the old Tecumseh and maybe tinker with it, but for reliability and performance you can't beat the predator for 89.99 dollars. It looks like you have a single shaft on it now so the swap will be very easy. you may have to move the chute handle but i think that is it. I have a newer CUB from 1984 and it now has an 11hp honda clone on it and it runs great. Carl


The Predator 212cc is made by Loncin in China. They make engines for the Toro's snowblowers. I put a 212cc Predator on mine and I absolutely am enjoying it know. It throws snow over 40 feet. Almost all the guys buying snow blowers today for $899.99 on up are doing so because thier old engines are giving them problems. I will be putting one on a restored Gilson made MGW 8/26 from 1973. It is made out of bolier plate compared to my newer MTD which now has a Predator. Nothing beats a modern OHV engine for smoothness and easy starting. Here is my machine with the Predator 212cc against 11 inches of snow. Heck even the well respected Ariens brand machines have Chinese built engines too. The old Briggs and Stratton is tired and the 212cc engine will use less gas and makes more power per cc than any old antiquated flat head engine. My 5 hp Tecumseh could not remove snow like this engine plus it always starts on the first or second pull. Here is a guy on You tube who replaced his with a Grey hound clone. He loves it too.


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

td5771 said:


> If once it is started there are no problems-- smoking, leaking, and has plenty of power the. J would go for a new carb. The old one either was not cleaned out enough or there is corrosion that has made it unable to be reused.


Any advice on where to find parts for the Briggs and Stratton engine on it?


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

NDbrewer said:


> Any advice on where to find parts for the Briggs and Stratton engine on it?


Do you have the model number of the engine?
should be a data tag on it somewhere..

Once you have that, the vendors I have listed here:

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/Page11.html#question10

should have the parts you need..

(I would MUCH rather fix up the original engine! if possible, than put a new harbor freight engine on it..)

Scot


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

NDbrewer said:


> Any advice on where to find parts for the Briggs and Stratton engine on it?


How well does the old Biggs run? It is also just a 5hp too. I say if it is a real good runner it may be worth so time effort and money. However it will not start as easily as a new engine nor will it have the power of a new engine. All engines on snowblowers today are Chinese engines


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

GustoGuy said:


> All engines on snowblowers today are Chinese engines


That is true, but IMO that is completely irrelevant to the question of putting a Harbor Freight engine on a classic 100% American-made snowblower..

Using a Harbor Freight engine is fine, if you want to..
but many feel it would be a bit blasphemous to put such an engine on a classic machine..Sort of like restoring a 1967 Camaro and dropping a Hyundai engine in it..It just doesn't seem right.

Personally I will *never*, ever, put a Chinese engine on my 1971 Ariens, or 1960 Snowbird, or 1964 Wheel Horse tractor..The fact that all engines are now, today, made in China is completely irrelevant..
but to each their own..

Scot


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Brewer,
I know I already put this in your "introduction" thread..but im going to drop it in this thread as well, for the sake of future readers who might come across this thread with an older Cub Cadet:

Welcome Brewer!
You actually have a 1970's Ariens there! 
pretty rare machine..

Here is some info about Ariens making those snowblowers for Cub Cadet:
The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.

And here is a page about the Ariens 10,000 series, to which you Cub Cadet belongs:
The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.

Scot


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

sscotsman said:


> That is true, but IMO that is completely irrelevant to the question of putting a Harbor Freight engine on a classic 100% American-made snowblower..
> 
> Using a Harbor Freight engine is fine, if you want to..
> but many feel it would be a bit blasphemous to put such an engine on a classic machine..Sort of like restoring a 1967 Camaro and dropping a Hyundai engine in it..It just doesn't seem right.
> ...


I feel the same way. 

The engine data plate reads: Model (130212) Type (0357-01) Code (7210237)

Maybe I should just buy a new Ariens while I get this one nursed back to health and looking fine next summer. I have started to get a lot of pain in my right knee and I am dreading talking to my doctor about it (probably going to need surgery) and don't want my wife to fight with this thing until it is fixed if she has to use it.


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

GustoGuy said:


> How well does the old Biggs run? It is also just a 5hp too. I say if it is a real good runner it may be worth so time effort and money. However it will not start as easily as a new engine nor will it have the power of a new engine. All engines on snowblowers today are Chinese engines


It runs pretty good once it gets going. Just a pain to start. Doesn't seem to bog down too much under load.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

I had the exact same problem when I first started tinkering with my old blower and it was the gap on the points. Once I had it adjusted properly it has been a one pull start ever since. And I agree with Scot here 100%, don't put a harbor freight motor on it, you'll ruin a classic machine. She's a beauty just the way she is. If it runs great once you get it going, it is a simple fix. Or put an electric start on it if you can...


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

My 2 cents (that's Canadian, so worth even less) is that if it was my gram-pa's machine and then my dad's it would stay original. I don't have lots of experience working on engines, but I know that I could count on the members here to help me through. Between that and YouTube I think I could manage and at the end of the process, I would have gained a lot of knowledge and have a restored family piece, that will have served for three generations and something I could be very proud of. I get the sense, that it's not about saving money, this is a project from the heart.
Good for you.
Larry


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Blue Hill said:


> My 2 cents (that's Canadian, so worth even less) is that if it was my gram-pa's machine and then my dad's it would stay original. I don't have lots of experience working on engines, but I know that I could count on the members here to help me through. Between that and YouTube I think I could manage and at the end of the process, I would have gained a lot of knowledge and have a restored family piece, that will have served for three generations and something I could be very proud of. I get the sense, that it's not about saving money, this is a project from the heart.
> Good for you.
> Larry


Well said Larry.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

Thats what I get for posting at 4 am...completely forgot about the points. the carb is about $85 points are cheap. I would keep the old. my neighbor has the identical blower and it works great.

its here. claiming an overstock special at $85, carb number 299437 1/3 down the page


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

Blue Hill said:


> My 2 cents (that's Canadian, so worth even less) is that if it was my gram-pa's machine and then my dad's it would stay original. I don't have lots of experience working on engines, but I know that I could count on the members here to help me through. Between that and YouTube I think I could manage and at the end of the process, I would have gained a lot of knowledge and have a restored family piece, that will have served for three generations and something I could be very proud of. I get the sense, that it's not about saving money, this is a project from the heart.
> Good for you.
> Larry


Thanks! I am only 53 miles from the border, so your two cents is taken at par. I want to restore it and use it not because it was free because I remember it from my childhood as does my mom in her childhood. They don't build anything to last forever anymore. It is a piece of history and I feel that I need to keep this tiny piece of history alive to destroy more snow drifts.

So I guess I have some parts to order...


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

td5771 said:


> Thats what I get for posting at 4 am...completely forgot about the points. the carb is about $85 points are cheap. I would keep the old. my neighbor has the identical blower and it works great.
> 
> its here. claiming an overstock special at $85, carb number 299437 1/3 down the page


This one? I can have it Monday if I order it today in the next hour.

http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-299437-Carburetor-Replaces/dp/B002WNR6AK


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

td5771 said:


> Thats what I get for posting at 4 am...completely forgot about the points. the carb is about $85 points are cheap. I would keep the old. my neighbor has the identical blower and it works great.
> 
> its here. claiming an overstock special at $85, carb number 299437 1/3 down the page


More invisible links.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

NDbrewer said:


> I feel the same way.
> 
> The engine data plate reads: Model (130212) Type (0357-01) Code (7210237)
> 
> Maybe I should just buy a new Ariens while I get this one nursed back to health and looking fine next summer. I have started to get a lot of pain in my right knee and I am dreading talking to my doctor about it (probably going to need surgery) and don't want my wife to fight with this thing until it is fixed if she has to use it.


I believe the "code" number gives us the date..
72 = 1972
10 = October
23 = October 23
7 = "plant code", place of manufacture.

So thats a 1972 engine, which matches the features of a 1972 Ariens 10,000 series perfectly..

Scot


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

Sorry...

Briggs and Stratton Carburetor


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Nb , I would check the points first .A weak spark will give a hard start. as it has been sitting for a while. My 69 areins that i got for free had the same trouble. Now it starts no more than 2 pulls. Any small engine shop should have them in stock for under $20. I think mine were $12. for points and condenser . What happens if you put a little gas down the carb?


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Also check spark plug gap . if that is off it will start hard


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

NDbrewer said:


> This one? I can have it Monday if I order it today in the next hour.
> 
> Amazon.com: Briggs & Stratton 299437 Carburetor Replaces 297599: Patio, Lawn & Garden


 When I was a young man I had worked for a lawn cutting and landscaping and tree service small business and in addition to cutting the grass and doing tree work and building retaining walls I helped to do maintanece for the equipment and I got to learn a lot about engines during the time I worked there*.*
* I replaced flywheel keys on small lawn mowers. Happened all the time if you hit something while cutting. I fixed leaking gaskets on engines and cleaned carburetors and rebuilt them and I even helped Randy our mechanic put a new good condition used differential in the rear of an old Ford truck too that had it rear end go out. I also got to be a decent welder there too since mowing decks needed to be fixed because rocks and things would fly through there damaging them about twice a season or so. Our best commercial mowers had Kawasaki engines on them and often the poorest runing ones had Briggs and Stratton comercial engines. Once in a while the Briggs would run ok but by and large the Kawasaki engines were much more reliable than were the Briggs and Strattons based upon our maintanence records.*

My 2 cents worth. *I will almost always try and fix a poorly running piece of equipment if I can. I have rebuilt and cleaned the carburetor on my Tecumseh 5hp before and I always used Amsoil synthetic oil in it and put in a new spark plug each and every year. I belong to the If it isn't broken do not fix it club. If the Tecumseh would have ran well I would still have it on my snow blower.* Like wise I will not spend a huge amount of money on fixing a worn out antiquated engine. My time is worth something too. I am a very busy man and I feel it foolish to waste time and money putzing with something every time you want to go blow your driveway. *The Predator 212cc is made by Loncin in China and they also make engines for the well respected Toro snow blower brand machines. Likewise LCT makes engines for Ariens machines and they are also a Chinese company. These engines are simular too or based on Honda small engine designs.*

Here is from Honda's website

We’ve got a well-earned reputation for our engine quality and performance. When you choose a Honda engine, or a product powered by Honda, you know what you’re getting. An engine you can count on, now and in the future.

*SUPERIOR PERFORMANCE.*
Better fuel efficiency. Higher power output. Quieter performance. Easier to use. No matter how you define superior engine performance, Honda engines set the standard.
What’s our secret? Best in class engineering and technology. From our amazingly compact mini 4-stroke engines to the intelligent power of our iGX series, Honda engines are truly built like no other.
Learn more about Honda engine technology.

I have an old Briggs and Stratton 8hp L Head engine (41 years old) on My MGW Gilson built 8/26. I have diassasembeled the snow blower and painted the snow blower and was hoping to have a nice running second snowblower for my cabin that was a bit of a classic in the sense.* I was going to immeadiatly replace the engine on it anyway and others here on the forum said well does the Briggs run?* So I hooked a gas tank up to it and it started after about 4 pulls of the recoil. It ran but I would not consider it to run great. So I cleaned it up and cleaned out the carburetor and drained the old oil and Put in synthetic oil. And the end result. 
I am not too impressed with how the engine runs and I have removed the carbon from the head as Briggs and Stratton recomends ever 100 or so hours worth of use. I have also have cleaned the Carburetor on it and replaced the float needle and seat to stop the carb from leaking. I also used a bit of Teflon Gas tape to help to seal the seat for the emulsion tube as well since 2 piece Briggs and Stratton Flo-Jet carbs were known to be prone to developing fuel leaks.
The engine runs, However it occaisonally will puff out a bit of blue smoke *(worn Valve guides and possible worn rings or worn oil ring wihich is the bottom most ring)* How ever it is much rougher running than the Predator 212cc is and a whole lot noiser too. I do not feel it is worth while to remove the valves and pay lots of money to have a machine shop remove and install new valve guides. *Looking at about $80 to $100 dollars to do this.* Also taking apart the engine and removing the piston and honing the cylinder and replacing the rings and that is if the cylinder is in specifications and will need to do measurements ans check with a caliper. If the cylinder is worn or has gouges (not a clean true bore) in it you would need to have it over bored by a machine shop and to install over sized pistons and all new rings. Since the Briggs 8hp does not use a steel cylinder liner either then you could expect more wear to occur through the engines life since aluminum is significantly softer than is cast iron cylinder liner.
The Predator 212cc already has a cast iron cylinder liner for durablity. It also has dual ball bearing supports on the crank shaft and the newer ones have an all steel cam shaft gear. I also has pressed in steel valve guides in the head and an efficient over head valve train design that is simular to Honda's

The American small engine makers were not always producing the best equipment in the world they were just making a good product for the time at the lowest possible price.

*Briggs and Stratton was able to establish a large market share over the years and become profitable because it could build and sell an engine cheaper than other competitors could in the American market. Not necessarly because it was a better designed engine. So why did Briggs keep building the same old L head engines for years? Because it was cost effective not because it was necessarly a better design*

Ironically once Honda came out with their highly sucessful GX series small OHV engines back in the late 1980's with the GX 240 and by the early 1990's had a complete line of small efficient and quiet OHV engines. Briggs and Stratton was starting to loose some market share. Briggs and Stratton used to be the largest manufacture of small engines in the World at one time but they become complacent and did not innovate and now they have phased out all their old L head (flat head) engines due to emmisions reasons as well as competition from Honda.* I say get a new Briggs 205cc OHV engine about $199.99 and it will be a much nicer engine than an old Briggs 5hp flat head even if you totally rebuild the old flat head from the ground up.*

Modern engines have electronic ignition rather than breaker point for a more reliable more consistant spark. Sure you can swap out a magnetron coil and have electronic in an old Briggs but It will cost about $50.00 for a new magnetron coil and you will have the same old engine.
Modern engines are designed with computers and have modern (bench flow studied) and improved efficiency designed valve trains to allow better engine breathing. The new version of the Loncin 212cc engine (Predator 212cc) even has a Hemi head designed with improved valve placement for a wider power band than the older engines. Modern OHV and OHC engines are bench flow tested and computer designed to breath better than the old L head engines ever could have dreamed of. Plus the in block valve train required the exhaust gases to make a 90 degree turn rather than just flowing out of the head and they were more senstive to carbon build up

Saying a modern Computer Assisted Designed (CAD) engine is inferior to an antiquated engine does not make sense if you are to argue the facts. How come we do not still drive cars with flat head engines today? 

Hyundia cars are not Junk. Why do some people here say they are?

*And as to comparing snow blowers to automobiles why? I drive a Hyundia Elantra and it is a very nice car. Now granted a Yugo was a real piece of Junk. In Fact Hyundia has a higher overall quality rating than does most GM models.* *Plus Hyundia also makes autombiles in Alabama and some of their models such as the Sonata have a higher Made in the USA content then does some American Brands such as Ford which many parts and cars made in Mexico.* As you can see from 2013 JD Powers intial quality survey ranking the Worst of the Worst Hyundia are better ranked than many so-called USA models


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

meh..as I said, to each their own.
I will never be swayed on the topic of Chinese engines..
its only partially a quality issue, its deeper than that.

Scot


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

sscotsman said:


> meh..as I said, to each their own.
> I will never be swayed on the topic of Chinese engines..
> its only partially a quality issue, its deeper than that.
> 
> Scot


So you will never buy a new Ariens snow blower then?. All new Ariens snow blower engines are made in China now. At least Ariens still continues to make the actual snow blower body here in the USA unlike Toro which is made in the Murder capital of the world Juarez Mexico for it's 2 stage snow blowers.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Guys...remember this gentleman asked for advice on a hard starting motor that he wants to repair and keep on his machine. That's what we are supposed to be trying to help him with.
Which leads me back...nb...do the points first, like 69ariens said, cheaper than the carb investment which may not fix your problem. Seems like him and I had the same issues with our blowers.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Ray 1962 10ML60 said:


> Guys...remember this gentleman asked for advice on a hard starting motor that he wants to repair and keep on his machine. That's what we are supposed to be trying to help him with.


I would say install some sort of primer in the throat of the carb. Should not be too expensive. I use a fancy primer on my PWC and it works much better than the choke did.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/smallengine/smengfuel/smengfuelprimer.html Once in a while it can be difficult to start an engine especially when it is cold becuase fuel does not atomize as well when it is cold. This should help it to pop when he pulls the recoil

I am giving economically sound advice. I would not put lots of money into fixing a very old 5hp L head Briggs and Stratton engine. He even said that his father was about to scrap the snow blower any way all because of a poor running engine. I have actually have worked on small engines before and I even rebuilt a 302 Ford V8 with my neighbor before. I do all my own maintanece and I own boat with 50hp Force engine and Personal watercraft and 2 snowmobiles and I am giving sound advice. I guess that I do not feel a strong attachment to an engine that doesn't run well. I say if you can fix it for a reasonable price and it runs well then that is money saved. However if you sink lots of money into an old engine and it still doesn't run well enough than it is a waste of money. Briggs and Stratton quit making these engines over 10 years ago.

My advice is if you can not fix the old 5hp Briggs and Stratton L head for a reasonable cost is to replace it with a new engine since a new OHV modern engine will run better than an old L Head (flat head ) Briggs engine .
Briggs and Stratton sells a very nice 205cc snow engine that would bolt right on that body. It would have much more power than the old 5hp and will start much easier. About $199.99 online. Unfortunately it is made in China
I would not throw lots of money into fixing an old most likely worn out flat head engine. After 40+ years technology has gotton much better. Any body drive a flat head Ford on a regualar basis any more? 
Mark


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

GustoGuy said:


> So you will never buy a new Ariens snow blower then?. All new Ariens snow blower engines are made in China now. At least Ariens still continues to make the actual snow blower body here in the USA unlike Toro which is made in the Murder capital of the world Juarez Mexico for it's 2 stage snow blowers.


No, I wont..
I will never own any 2-stage snowblower made after 2013.
Im 44 years old, I figure I have another 30 to 40 years of snowblowing to go, if im lucky!  and my 42 year old Ariens is still going strong..
So I figure Ariens snowblowers from the 70's, 80's, 90's, and 00's will serve me well for the rest of my life!  
I will never have any need to buy a snowblower with a Chinese engine on it..(I might have never bought a new snowblower anyway..
regardless of the engine issue..I dont see any reason to spend $1,000 when $250 buys me a perfectly capable machine..)

I also plan to keep my 1964 Wheel Horse tractor going indefinitely..I will probably purchase another one made in the late 70's..
that should also easily last for the rest of my life.

And it sounds like my dislike for products from China is similar to your feelings about Mexico!  we are on similar wavelengths there..
different reasons perhaps, but a similar concept..

but yes..as Ray said, we are drifting way off topic here.."Brewer" has already made it clear he intends to
keep his Cub Cadet as original as possible, with the original Briggs engine..









So the China vs. USA debate is useless in this thread..So I suggest we drop it here..
we always have other threads to debate it!  if we choose to..

thanks,
Scot


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

sscotsman said:


> No, I wont..
> I will never own any 2-stage snowblower made after 2013.
> Im 44 years old, I figure I have another 30 to 40 years of snowblowing to go, if im lucky!  and my 42 year old Ariens is still going strong..
> So I figure Ariens snowblowers from the 70's, 80's, 90's, and 00's will serve me well for the rest of my life!
> ...


Scot

Alright. I agree. If he want to keep the Briggs lets get it running.

What do you think about adding a primer like in the links I have in my previous post? It would be inexpensive too. Do you feel that will help enough to allow his engine to start easily when it is cold?. Remember that gasoline does not atomize as well when it is cold out. Also oil thickens ect. A synthetic oil may help too less likely to thicken when it is cold.

Mark


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

GustoGuy said:


> Scot
> 
> Alright. I agree. If he want to keep the Briggs lets get it running.
> 
> ...


Oh I think a primer would absolutely help..
My '71 Ariens once had a primer button, but its now gone..(it wasnt there when I bought the machine)
In its place I use a can of starting fluid, and give a squirt of fluid straight into the carb bowl when starting if its 20 degrees F or below..it definitely helps..I have considered trying to replace the primer, but the starting fluid works so well, there is no real need!  If I ever tear down and restore the snowblower, I will probably replace the primer, otherwise, no..

Even if its not 20 or below, a squirt of starting fluid (which is basically the same thing a primer button does) could help starting..

Scot


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You guys better be careful. The internet is full of horror stories of starting fluid use and engines blowing up.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Ray 1962 10ML60 said:


> Guys...remember this gentleman asked for advice on a hard starting motor that he wants to repair and keep on his machine. That's what we are supposed to be trying to help him with.
> Which leads me back...nb...do the points first, like 69ariens said, cheaper than the carb investment which may not fix your problem. Seems like him and I had the same issues with our blowers.


 If I had it I would bypass the points and install a magnetron coil instead. He will have a more reliable electronic modern ignition. Just need to snip the two wires comming out of the condenser and no need to remove the flywheel either. The gap between the flywheel and the coil is 0.01 or the width of a standard business card


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Shryp said:


> You guys better be careful. The internet is full of horror stories of starting fluid use and engines blowing up.


True, Starting fluid is much more flamable than is gasoline and it can in some causes cause a blown head gasket or can wash the oil film off the cylinder wall and some engines can blow especially 2 strokes since there is no lubrication in starting fluid. Less likely to blow a 4 stroke but it could blow a head gasket maybe. I would put in a cheap primer with a metal "T" off the fuel line with a loop that dips lower and up to the primer and install a tiny fitting in front of the carburetor throat and connect the hose to the fitting in the throat of the carburetor. That should be the easiest way to help it to start when it is really cold out.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Shryp said:


> You guys better be careful. The internet is full of horror stories of starting fluid use and engines blowing up.


Only if you are a moron and dump in a whole can of fluid. 
one squirt wont hurt anything..
smart people have been using it, with no problems, since the beginning of time..

Scot


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

Alright, I ordered the new carb assembly. I will probably hunt down a new spark plug tomorrow. 

How do I go about finding a new coil? And if I need new points? 

Will a new Briggs engine mount without any additional work? (Just until the original engine is restored)


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

ND- if you go to a website like this: 

Parts and Diagrams for Briggs and Stratton 130212-0357-99

If you look on the left side, I put in your engine numbers in there and it pulls up everything for you. It has all the parts and diagrams you need. Looks like your points and condenser are part #294628. They are listed under the flywheel section, part 375. 
You can then cross reference the part numbers into google or ebay and search for the best price for whatever you need.


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## BB Cub (Jan 10, 2012)

ndbrewer see if you can borrow a compression tester to see how much compression you have with your motor. this will tell if you should keep going or look for another snow blower while you are working on this one.next I would take the head off and see what the valves look like. they might need touched up and that might be some of you problem causing your hard starting.and take some pics of the valves open so we can see what they look like.we had a 5 hp brigs that was hard to start and it was a valve. you have to have spark, fuel and compression to start right up. my question for the guys is will a good running 5 hp brigs off something cheap will work on his snowblower?


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

Any one have a source for a cutting/scraper blade? I found new aftermarket skid runners but no blade.

I will see if I can round up a compression tester. New spark plug and fresh oil will be going in today or tomorrow. I assume Amsoil is the favorite around here. 5W-20?


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

I use Mobil-1 5W-30 synthetic..im sure the Amsoil is just as good.

There has been a lot of debate over the years on the best "weight" of oil to use for snowblowers..the general consensus is 5W-30..And that's what Tecumseh recommends for the 1970's engines..
Although I did just find an Ariens manual that says 5W-20! I would go with whatever the engine owners manual says..But 5W-30 seems to be the most common for snowblowers.

From a Tecumseh 1970's era manual:



> ENGINE OIL
> Use a clean, high quality detergent oil. Be sure original container is marked: A.P.I. service SF thru SJ. The use of
> multigrade oil may increase oil consumption under high temperature, high load applications.
> NOTE: DO NOT USE SAE10W40 OIL.
> ...


Not sure what Briggs recommends!
(have you found a manual for your specific engine?)

As for the scraper bar, a 24" Ariens 10,000 series scraper bar *should* fit! I dont know that for an absolute fact, but its the most obvious place to start, since its an Ariens bucket.

Here is the "master" 10,000 series manual:

http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/prm-10000.pdf

Your bucket should most closely match Ariens model 910995 24" bucket from 1971/1972. page 10-12 in that manual.

Part number 10164 is probably your scraper bar..but I would confirm the bolt pattern and spacing before ordering! Im not absolutely sure the Cub Cadet bucket is 100% identical to the Ariens bucket..it probably is, as far as the scraper bar is concerned, but there are differences..Cub didnt use the same auger housing as Ariens, for example.

Scot


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

For a scraper bar you could go to home depot and get some flat bar and make your own. just cut to size and drill some holes


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

Thanks guys! Just in case anyone wants to see it or if it helps someone in the future here is a photo of the engine data plate.

I am still working through my parts list and trying to cross reference it with the Ariens parts list...

No engine owners or service manual yet.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Well there you go! 
Briggs says 5W-20..go with that! 
Scot


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Since you are keeping the original engine I would recommend the Briggs and Stratton Magnetron coil that will bypass the breaker points entirely.It will be more reliable and give you a more consistent hotter spark. The cost is about $50.00. I like reliable


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

NDbrewer said:


> Alright, I ordered the new carb assembly. I will probably hunt down a new spark plug tomorrow.
> 
> How do I go about finding a new coil? And if I need new points?
> 
> Will a new Briggs engine mount without any additional work? (Just until the original engine is restored)


Yes the Briggs 205cc will bolt on using the same mounting holes. You can order it on line and save some money. It is made in China however. 

Here is a listing on ebay for a new engine for $200 dollars


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

GustoGuy said:


> Yes the Briggs 205cc will bolt on using the same mounting holes. You can order it on line and save some money. It is made in China however.
> 
> Here is a listing on ebay for a new engine for $200 dollars
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIGGS-AND-STRATTON-SNOW-BLOWER-ENGINE-800-SERIES-OHV-205CC-NEW-WARRANTY-/161108303691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2582cd9f4b


Thanks! I will give that a shot and it only has to get me through this winter or until the original engine is restored.


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

Also, I measured the front blower housing(?) and it is 26 inches wide, does that seem right or did I measure it wrong?


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

NDbrewer said:


> Also, I measured the front blower housing(?) and it is 26 inches wide, does that seem right or did I measure it wrong?


Im just guessing here, and while its backwards from the norm, your model *26*5 indicates its a 26 inch wide, 5 HP machine. 
Many snow blower models list the HP first followed by the width. There are no hard rules.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

NDbrewer said:


> Thanks! I will give that a shot and it only has to get me through this winter or until the original engine is restored.


You may want to search around a bit for a better price. The Briggs & Stratton 205cc snow engine is one I found for sale on ebay and there may be better deals on the internet such as the HF Predator 212cc. The shipping is $65.00 so total cost = $265.00 for the Briggs and Stratton 205cc. If you are not going to use it long term past restoring the original engine there are much better priced alternatives out there that would save you over $100 dollars plus you could always sell the engine anyway after you restore the old one. 
Keep in mind that the 205cc Briggs and the 212cc HF Predator engines will have more torque and horse power than even a fully restored Briggs and Stratton 5hp engine will.
Mark


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

GustoGuy said:


> You may want to search around a bit for a better price. The Briggs & Stratton 205cc snow engine is one I found for sale on ebay and there may be better deals on the internet such as the HF Predator 212cc. The shipping is $65.00 so total cost = $265.00 for the Briggs and Stratton 205cc. If you are not going to use it long term past restoring the original engine there are much better priced alternatives out there that would save you over $100 dollars plus you could always sell the engine anyway after you restore the old one.
> Keep in mind that the 205cc Briggs and the 212cc HF Predator engines will have more torque and horse power than even a fully restored Briggs and Stratton 5hp engine will.
> Mark


I picked up a $89 212cc Predator to make it through this year while I restore, clean and paint the original engine. Hopefully I will get the body cleaned, painted and reassembled next summer. Thanks for the advice!


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Good for you NDbrewer! Good luck with your project and your knee issues. If I get down your way, I'll stop in for a beer. 
Larry


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

NDbrewer said:


> I picked up a $89 212cc Predator to make it through this year while I restore, clean and paint the original engine. Hopefully I will get the body cleaned, painted and reassembled next summer. Thanks for the advice!


Just let me know if you have any questions on putting the engine on your snow blower since I will be soon putting one were my 8hp Briggs and Stratton is on my MGW Gilson made snow blower that I restored. It will bolt on directly to your machine using the same bolt holes that the 5hp briggs did and you can get steel pulleys from Phoenix manufacturing like I did. I used a 2 inch pulley with 3/4 inch bore for the drive and a 3 inch pulley for the auger with a 3/4 inch bore. Here is a link to the pulley sizes you need. Do not use zinc cast pulleys since they are not made for the power of your engine and they could break.

https://www.phoenix-mfg.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=31&category_id=89&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56&lang=en


https://www.phoenix-mfg.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=33&category_id=89&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56&lang=en

Since the Predator 212cc is an emission engine it is jetted quite lean and in cold temperatures below 32 degrees it can surge a bit with stock jetting. I fixed this and others have fixed it by enlarging the main jet a small amount. You can use super floss and polishing compound like I did or torch tip cleaner like Shryp did. Only remove a small amount or it will run too rich and clean out the inside of the jet with carburetor cleaner. Just let me know if you have any questions on your 265 Cub Cadet repower. 

You will like the power of the 212cc engine and since it will bolt directly to you machine using the same bolt holes as the old engine. You will be able to remove it easily once you have your Briggs 5hp rebuilt. And the Predator 212cc starts so easy that my wife can start it on the mini bike with no problems at all so your wife should be able to start the engine easily. You could get a mini-bike frame cheap and then use your Predator engine to have a fun little toy like I do. I have a picture of my Mini-bike in this thread.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/mtd-snowblowers/2282-when-will-winter-end-we-expected-get-another-6-8-inches-snow-2.html


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

You can probably get away using the original pulleys and belts if they are in good shape since they both should be 3/4" shafts, and the center line of both motors are very close. No need to buy pulleys it you don't have to especially if you are going to be putting the briggs back on when you restore it. I think you will be impressed how well the predator engine runs and may not want to take it off.


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

My new carburetor showed up today, I think I will install it this coming weekend. 

Should I install new fuel lines?

The gas tank is tough looking, should I wait to see what it looks like cleaned up or should I just order a replacement?

Also, I found a manual for the engine series (130200) online and it mentioned cleaning the combustion chamber for deposits every 100 to 300 hours, any thoughts?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If you are taking the time to replace the carb go for the lines too. 1/4" fuel line is like $1.00 - $1.50 per foot at any auto parts store. I would try and clean the tank first, and maybe add a cheap filter too. Those small gravity filters are only like $3.00 and some auto parts places have those as well.


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

Any thoughts on where to find a new 26" scraper blade? I tried making one but not sure it will last too long. 

Also, someone never adjusted the skid shoes, so the housing is worn down where the scraper bar goes. Should I just cut this off and weld a new piece of metal on which to mount the scraper bar?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

As long as there is enough meat to sandwich it in there and it stays you should be fine. A google search for "26 scraper blade" came up with a few for sale. Not sure how the holes on any of them will line up for you. I have been reading the threads on the HDPE (sp?) skid shoe mods that people are doing and one was using it for an impeller kit as well. I wonder if that material would work for a scraper blade.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Shryp said:


> I have been reading the threads on the HDPE (sp?) skid shoe mods that people are doing and one was using it for an impeller kit as well. I wonder if that material would work for a scraper blade.


It's next on my to-do list.


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## TimY (Oct 27, 2013)

shryp,
You might be on to something there with the HDPE scrapper blade,Inever even thought of that before.The last one I made I just got a piece of 2"wide 3/16 flat stock marked and the holes of the old one down the center(so I could flip it)drilled them out lasted the bucket. But HDPE would probably work excellent. Having worked with that stuff a lot I'd like a few suggestions. I'd be inclined to use 1/4" stock if you can get it, no less than 3/16". The stuff's tough but not invincible. If you use 1/4" put a slight bevel on the leading edge(using a table saw, sander, even a block plane) That hDPE expands and contracts a fair amount so drill the holes slightly larger to allow for contraction in the cold. I would also use SS star lock washers, it's slippery so toughs washer would help keep the bar allinded better.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I have a piece of 3/8 material. My issue is with the sharp angle my current scrapper bar makes. Eventually it will wear flat on the bottom, so is that the angle to cut it to? It's going to be too thin and delicate at the cutting edge with a 25ish degree angle. 
We should probably start a new thread and not hi-jack NDbrewers.


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## NDbrewer (Nov 23, 2013)

I bit the bullet and cancelled the Harbor Freight engine, to buy a Ariens 28 Deluxe! 

I am pretty excited for it to show up as the Cadet started having some clutch problems. With a new baby only weeks away, I (my wife) decided I didn't have time to mess with it this year. So I ran the gas out and put a little fresh gas in with some Seafoam. Hopefully I will get it fully restored in the next two years. 

Thanks to everyone on this forum for their help so far and I will continue to update this thread as the restoration progresses.


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## bigdaddy (Jan 27, 2014)

*Cub Cadet 265 Pics*

Still trying to learn how to upload pics.

She purrs like a kitten, but it takes a little persuasion to start. I have to splash a little gas into the spark plug. Any suggestions? What kind of lube goes in the auger gear box? Is it okay that grease comes out of the bearings of the auger bar or are the bearings bad? Cleaned the carburetor this week, added cheap shoe pads and replaced the plug. Made a huge difference! The insides (gears) look great she just needs a little TLC. Any suggestions on maintenance would be appreciated.

BK


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