# HS724 Honda Snowblower: Need Engine



## ydpplqbd (Sep 18, 2019)

Hi all

I bought a used HS724 snowblower a couple years ago. The HS724 has always been hard starting since I got it. Now it no longer has compression. I just want to buy a new Honda motor to replace the currently no compression motor. The block lists the motor as a GX200. Further the engine serial number is as follows: Engine S/N: GCAE 1166572. And, chassis number: SZBE - 1003523

I am trying to figure out which GX200 engine that I need. I called https://www.brandnewengines.com/snowblowers.aspx and I was quoted $675 plus S&H and sales tax (sounded kind of high). Any help on sourcing a replacement engine would be greatly appreciated.

PS The representative at https://www.brandnewengines.com/snowblowers.aspx stated that this motor was a special order item and was NOT either the: i.) GX200-QX2; or ii.) GX200-QXE2. The rep would not give detailed info to me on the difference between "i", "ii" and the special order GX-200 but it sounded it like the difference was primarily linked to the air-cleaner (which I can likely reuse from the old engine lacking compression).


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

how about a Predator from Harbor Freight?

they are Honda clones and work well from what I have read here.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Where are you located? Update your profile location! I have a GX240 I'm trying to decide what to do with...


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## williaea (Nov 27, 2019)

I'm hardly the expert - but I think I read somewhere that Honda GX series engines used specifically on Honda snowblowers had metric shaft diameter (20mm in the case of GX200) while the normally available Honda and Predator engines have a 3/4" diameter shaft. Doesn't seem like THAT big of a deal to me, as you'd need to shim (.018" shim wrapped around the shaft excluding keyway?) between the shaft of a 3/4" shaft and a 20mm bore pulley - but something to be aware of or at least do a bit more research on. 

Eric


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## tdipaul (Jul 11, 2015)

.

Hard starting and then no compression suggests that checking the valve clearances might save you a bunch of $$$ and labor

.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

These machines are usually bulletproof, unless you run it without oil for a while and blow a rod you'd be hard pressed to loose compression like that, I'd advise on taking the head off and see whats going on with the valves first before shelling out a pretty penny to get another motor. 

Location would help as others suggested.


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## SkunkyLawnmowers (Oct 18, 2018)

:iagree: with JnC & tdipaul

A bit of investigative mechanics will be nowt compared to sticking in a new engine.


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## ydpplqbd (Sep 18, 2019)

Ok many thanks for all the responses. Very helpful. Plenty of oil.

The snowblower is in Bethlehem PA. 

I am off to Canada in two days for a week to help out my ailing mom. So it is unlikely that I will get back to this project for at least a week and a half.

Once again, thanks for all the suggestions and recommendations.


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## ydpplqbd (Sep 18, 2019)

Sorry for the delay in getting back to this issue (COVID-19 and a dying mother have kept me busy since I last checked in).

This morning, I checked the compression on the Honda motor in my HS-724 snow blower. Compression is 25psi. I do not know what the compression should be (my best guess is around 100psi at least). I will try squirting some oil in the cylinder and see what effect that has on the compression test. 

The exhaust was always real hot when this thing ran. So my intuition says check the exhaust valve first.

Please provide any and all suggestions for steps forward and similar experiences.

Many thanks.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

ydpplqbd said:


> Sorry for the delay in getting back to this issue (COVID-19 and a dying mother have kept me busy since I last checked in).
> 
> This morning, I checked the compression on the Honda motor in my HS-724 snow blower. Compression is 25psi. I do not know what the compression should be (my best guess is around 100psi at least). I will try squirting some oil in the cylinder and see what effect that has on the compression test.
> 
> ...


well sounds like a valve adjustment first and maybe a valve job if that doesnt work. this time of year there are great deals on used 724's . not sure if a gx240 ( 8 horse )would bolt on as @tabora suggested. There are plenty of them out there also for cheap. A used engine swap is what I have done many times and really not too difficult.

but check that valve adjustment. either you-tube video or Honda shop manual will show the way.

btw , Honda engines have a compression release on cam so your compression should be around 80 or so which is really higher .......over 100 because of this release. You could even get a reading of 70 and still have a running engine. But 80-90 is usually the case for a good healthy Honda.

I agree with others here. May be as simple as a valve adjustment.


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## ydpplqbd (Sep 18, 2019)

OK thanks!!!! Valve adjustment next.


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## ydpplqbd (Sep 18, 2019)

*Update.* Added 3 or 4 squirts of oil to cylinder and did compression test again. Adding oil resulted in pressure increasing by about 1 or 2 psi (IOW negligible).

Next, I removed the valve cover from the GX200 motor and set the valve clearance. After valve adjustment was completed, I then sprayed a little starting fluid into spark plug hole and put the spark plug back. I then tried to start the motor. Fired up instantly. I also redid the compression test after valve adjustment and the compression is now 75psi. Sounds like I am almost there. I also need to replace the muffler as the existing muffler is very rusted with a loose baffle. Couple follow-up questions for the group:

*Question1:* should I replace the rocker arm lock nuts (if they came loose before, I am afraid it will happen again)?

*Question2:* should I instead apply high heat locktite to the rocker arm lock nuts?


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I would go with the loctite. Much more cost effective.


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## ydpplqbd (Sep 18, 2019)

Hi all: I have been absent for awhile (COVID-19 and dying mother). 


*Most recent prior post from me (about four months ago):*

Next, I removed the valve cover from the GX200 motor and set the valve clearance. After valve adjustment was completed, I then sprayed a little starting fluid into spark plug hole and put the spark plug back. I then tried to start the motor. Fired up instantly. I also redid the compression test after valve adjustment and the compression is now 75psi. Sounds like I am almost there. I also need to replace the muffler as the existing muffler is very rusted with a loose baffle.

*My Situation Now:*

Today I got back to the snowblower. However, the snowblower's GX-200 engine would not start with new gas or starting fluid. I then did a compression test and got 30 psi. Not good.

Next, I adjusted valve lash for both intake and exhaust (0.005" for intake and 0.006" for exhaust). But, I still have about 30 psi of compression. Next, I sprayed 4 or 5 shots of oil (15W-40) from my oil can into the cylinder. Compression increased to 40 to 45 psi.

*Question:* what should I do next to resolve this lack of compression problem?

*Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.*

PS I applied high heat locttite to the rocker arm lock nut and locking nut when I did the valve adjustment four months ago.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

You should really remove the engine head to take a look inside. Head gasket leak, worn out cylinder wall, damaged spark plug thread hole, carbon build-up on the valve seats, ...
It might have ran low on oil and seized up before. A few drops of oils in there won't tell you everything. If you see deep scratches/grooves on the cylinder wall, it is done.
There are products out there that claim to restore worn out/low compression engines. Use them as your last resort, but don't count on them.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

Since, you mentioned using locttite and had good compression the last time, you might want to take a look at the valve adjustment again. Who know.


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## ydpplqbd (Sep 18, 2019)

Thanks!!!!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

ydpplqbd said:


> Hi all: I have been absent for awhile (COVID-19 and dying mother).
> 
> 
> *Most recent prior post from me (about four months ago):*
> ...


repower with good used engine. like i mentioned in my first post 8 months ago, there were probably plenty of good 724's cheap back in spring summer. I pick them up for 300-500. Switch engines or use both machines to make one good one and then you still have plenty of parts.

I can do an engine swap in less than a hour. It is fairly easy on a Honda. How many hours have you put into this problem so far?

Not worth it to me.


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## ydpplqbd (Sep 18, 2019)

orangputeh said:


> repower with good used engine. like i mentioned in my first post 8 months ago, there were probably plenty of good 724's cheap back in spring summer. I pick them up for 300-500. Switch engines or use both machines to make one good one and then you still have plenty of parts.
> 
> I can do an engine swap in less than a hour. It is fairly easy on a Honda. How many hours have you put into this problem so far?
> 
> Not worth it to me.


orangeputeh, if I could find a used machine or engine, I would have taken the route that you have suggested. I agree that I have spent a lot of time on this issue so far. So it goes. 

My wife freaks out whenever I buy a new/used motor, additional snowblower, lawnmower, etc.. As a result, I try to just buy parts and fix what I have (so that peace can be maintained). I know it is my problem but it is the reality of the situation.

Next step for me: pull the head. I will come back to the forum after the head is pulled. Hopefully with some pics of the problem.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

with that compression test are you cranking it with the pull starter or cranking it with the electric motor? please remember these motors have compression releases on the exhaust valves that lower the compression at low rpm's . 
personally i find 50 pound area when pull starting and 125 plus on electric with the 4 and 5th hit


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

ydpplqbd said:


> orangeputeh, if I could find a used machine or engine, I would have taken the route that you have suggested. I agree that I have spent a lot of time on this issue so far. So it goes.
> 
> My wife freaks out whenever I buy a new/used motor, additional snowblower, lawnmower, etc.. As a result, I try to just buy parts and fix what I have (so that peace can be maintained). I know it is my problem but it is the reality of the situation.
> 
> Next step for me: pull the head. I will come back to the forum after the head is pulled. Hopefully with some pics of the problem.


well , in your OP you asked for a source for a replacement engine.

just tried to help. good luck. havent read all the posts. assumed you check valve adjustment. I have come across stuck valves which can be loosened up with penetrating oil or MMO. blown head gasket. Everest Parts on Amazon sells a good rebuild kit for Honda's. I got one for a 828 for 60 bucks. Comes with piston , rings, bolts, gaskets, etc. everything you need. They may also just sell the head gasket or individual parts if you dont wanna split the case.

look forward to what you find. I'm always learning something new or trying to.


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## chrisbloom (Oct 12, 2020)

If you are new to rebuilds, or troubleshooting engines like this, you might check out Mustie1's channel on YouTube, he does lots of this type of thing and has a ton of tricks up his sleeve.

I agree with the others, these Honda's are tough to wear out, let alone destroy.

Another thing is your compression tester may not be accurate, I have seen many inexpensive ones that weren't (not sure what yours is, just putting it out there). Low compression suggests a valve issue, especially since the oil in the cylinder didn't make a huge difference. I would second checking for a stuck valve, or sluggish valve, or maybe a worn seat. 

Buying a Predator engine might be an easy fix, but there is something sacrilegious about having a Honda with anything but a Honda motor on it... What can I say, I am a fanboy.


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