# Picked up a 1136 as part of a package deal



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

PICTURES ADDED 

today picked up a 1136 as part of a package deal. had to take with the blower I really wanted.

needs a recoil starter. electric start works. needs some minor. a lot of work has been done to it . new clutch, carb work , all new pins.

has been used most of winter. 

my question is what it's worth? there are no 1136's for sale around here. a lot of 824 's for around 400 or so. don't know how old it is. can you tell by serial number?
I can post pics in a couple day. Has wheels with chains.

would there be a better demand for parting out? or maybe trade ?

not too familiar with the arien brand even though it is the second most common blower around here.


----------



## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> today picked up a 1136 as part of a package deal. had to take with the blower I really wanted.
> 
> needs a recoil starter. electric start works. needs some minor. a lot of work has been done to it . new clutch, carb work , all new pins.
> 
> ...


924071?? 1983 to 1987 to me iam very cheap 600 tops in nice shape parts are worth money for sure
nice find that is a beast of a machine


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I think I'll be able to repair the 1136 .

I also have a 824 that I might part out if there is interest in parts here. otherwise I'll save it for trade.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I have an ST1236 (I bought it with a blown auger gearbox for $125), still have not been able to remove 1 of the 2 seized augers from the shaft.
This ST11/12/13/36 machines are little monsters......!
I may end up building a pretty powerful snowblower out of it, mine looks in pretty good shape overall. I think the reason why the gearbox broke was because the augers were seize to the shaft and the PO may have hit some hard object.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> I have an ST1236 (I bought it with a blown auger gearbox for $125), still have not been able to remove 1 of the 2 seized augers from the shaft.
> This ST11/12/13/36 machines are little monsters......!
> I may end up building a pretty powerful snowblower out of it, mine looks in pretty good shape overall. I think the reason why the gearbox broke was because the augers were seize to the shaft and the PO may have hit some hard object.


donyboy73 has a pretty good video on youtube on freeing up augers .


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> donyboy73 has a pretty good video on youtube on freeing up augers .


I've tried several procedures and I even sent it to a machine shop, the were able to get one side off, but gave up on the other one.
My next attempt would likely be using electrolysis.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> I've tried several procedures and I even sent it to a machine shop, the were able to get one side off, but gave up on the other one.
> My next attempt would likely be using electrolysis.


hypnosis may work.:happy:


----------



## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> hypnosis may work.:happy:


I also tried sleeping on it, but it was very uncomfortable.

Drip some (a lot) of PB Blaster through the shaft for a week or so, and tap it with a hammer to vibrate the metal so the PB Blaster will seep into the rust. After a week, it will pull of just like butter - well, not really, but you'll have a lot better chance !


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

RIT333 said:


> I also tried sleeping on it, but it was very uncomfortable.
> 
> Drip some (a lot) of PB Blaster through the shaft for a week or so, and tap it with a hammer to vibrate the metal so the PB Blaster will seep into the rust. After a week, it will pull of just like butter - well, not really, but you'll have a lot better chance !



as a last resort, sit it down across the table from you and calmly explain that it does not cooperate then you will take it to the crusher.

anything with an atom in it has feelings.( Buddhist teachings )

works every time.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Today it started right up with electric start.

where can I get a recoil starter for it? and I am not sure but the part that screws on the shaft is bad, I believe, because the ball bearings came all out.

The throttle may be missing a spring because it won't stay on high. I manually have to keep up for fast throttle and as soon as I let go , it goes back to slow.

The carb def needs a cleaning as it sounds terrible at start up until it warms up. the choke works well.

This thing is HUGE and seems like it is extremely heavy duty. I am only 5'4" and it seems like a lot to handle.

I will post a picture tomorrow and the serial number.


----------



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Can't wait to see pics of this beast, OH and you could be 6'4" and that thing would still be HUGE LOL


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

The throttle lever may just need to be tighten to create some drag so that it stays at the desired position. Jackmels may have a complete recoil for it.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Dauntae said:


> Can't wait to see pics of this beast, OH and you could be 6'4" and that thing would still be HUGE LOL


Have been reading up on this thing. did not know there was a way to click the axle in for both wheels to move?

I need to get a manual.


----------



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

What make is it, I'm pretty good at finding them online pretty fast lol
for the ariens if that is it
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/024534.pdf


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Ariens ST1136


----------



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

beat you to it LOL Looks like the differential lock is on the left wheel according to the manual


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

ariens 1136

924071 and no. 003038


----------



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I have the right one posted above then, Can't wait to see the pics. Love the big old beasts


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Dauntae said:


> What make is it, I'm pretty good at finding them online pretty fast lol
> for the ariens if that is it
> http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/024534.pdf


wow! Thanks!!! That is why I became a Lifetime member.


----------



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Glad to help, Now time for bed LOL 4:30 am to get up for work is coming WAY too soon. Gnight


----------



## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> I've tried several procedures and I even sent it to a machine shop, the were able to get one side off, but gave up on the other one.
> My next attempt would likely be using electrolysis.


Don't give up, they can be tough but try different methods. My most difficult one had me just about give up and get used parts. I hate giving up on things, but time can be a factor on certain jobs. What i ended up doing was to take a pneumatic wizzer / 3" thin cutting wheel on the cutoff tool and i made one 6 - 8 inch blade width cut on the auger center tube on each side. This released the rust grip / pressure between the 1" auger shaft and the auger tube itself. Then a little heat and it pressed right out. After cleaning up the cuts i ran a weld bead over the cuts to make it whole again. Be careful not to burn through or you will have to run a cutter or something to clear the obstruction, so the 1" auger shaft will pass through easily. 
When you get the shaft out and all cleaned up it should be good to reinstall , think about this modification that i do to all my ariens pro gearbox auger shafts. Over time the 7/8" woodruff key wears the keyway in both the auger shaft and gearbox hub, replacing with a new key will not fix the movement between the shaft & hub. It's kinda crazy to have a 7/8" key when there is a 3" keyway slot available in the gearbox hub. So i machine a 3" keyway in the auger shaft and make a new key. It works out very nice and will remove any play / movement on the auger shaft which is very common on these pro gearboxes. Many people see the the movement and think its a worn gearbox, when its actually the worn keyways. 

Here is a pixx of the shaft after machining...











And a pixx of new 3" key on the shaft...


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thanks for sharing that info Shaw351.

I will not give up or removing that seized auger, one way or another I will get it apart.

I have a little bit of knowledge on machining, and eventually I'm hoping to have a "hobby shop" that will include a half decent metal lathe and a milling bridgeport to be able to accomplish most of my projects.

The larger key for the auger shaft is an excellent upgrade.


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Oh man, having a lathe and Bridgeport at home would be awesome!  I hope you can make that happen. 

Good luck with the auger! Shaw351, cool tip, thanks. I haven't given any thought to whether my Pro gearbox has to much play. But as long as it keeps doing its job, I don't plan on taking it apart to find out.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

pictures of the 1136 have been added to first post.

i took the carb cover off to show inside.

I noticed by searching craigslist nationwide that these beasts are rare. parts too probably . I need to fix the throttle so it stays where you put it . the chute adjustment cable is frozen. that cable is almost a half inch around.

everything on this blower is BIG. sturdy too. I would like to get it in good working order and sell. We live in big snow country and will probably sell.


----------



## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

RedOctobyr said:


> Oh man, having a lathe and Bridgeport at home would be awesome!  I hope you can make that happen.
> 
> Good luck with the auger! Shaw351, cool tip, thanks. I haven't given any thought to whether my Pro gearbox has to much play. But as long as it keeps doing its job, I don't plan on taking it apart to find out.


Hey RedOctobyr, easy to check your auger shaft for play. If you didn't know the procedure this is how i check my machines....

First i pull down on the left auger till there is no movement and hold it there, then i try to pull up on right auger which will tell you two things... when and if it moves you'll know it's free or frozen by rust to the auger shaft and also if shear pin hole is ok or may have been drilled out incorrectly and is oblonged causing excess play / movement.

Then i do the same to the left auger while holding the right auger, now after doing this you will know the status of both augers. 

My next step is to pull down on the left auger and pull up on the right auger at the same time, while holding this tension / free play removed from the augers i rotate the assembly up and down. While rotating this assembly look at the area where the auger shaft goes into the gearbox hub, see where movement occurs. If gearbox hub is moving in relationship to gearbox then you have worn gears or worn key that connects the gear to the hub ( Only accessible by dismantling the gearbox ). If the movement is between the auger shaft and the gearbox hub it is a worn auger key and or worn keyways. Hope this helps checking your gearbox and augers.


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

don't see that everyday! I don't recall ever seeing a Briggs flathead on an Ariens. Too cool


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

classiccat said:


> don't see that everyday! I don't recall ever seeing a Briggs flathead on an Ariens. Too cool


Was it repowered perhaps...???


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> Was it repowered perhaps...???


are you talking about my 1136? I'm not sure. don't know anything about Ariens.

i posted the numbers on the machine but have not looked for an engine number. not even sure what year it is.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> are you talking about my 1136? I'm not sure. don't know anything about Ariens.


Yes, I was referring to it. 
I have 2 ST1032 and the ST1236 with Tecumseh engines on them, plus every older Ariens that I've had in the past (maybe 10-15) had been fitted with Tecumseh engines.

Maybe an Ariens guru in the forum will know whether if your ST1132 was fitted with a Briggs engine from the factory or not.....


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

hsblowersfan said:


> Was it repowered perhaps...???


The aluminum tube coming up vertically near the carb looks somewhat homemade. Which makes me wonder if someone adapted the engine to this blower.


----------



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I just picked up an ST 1136 this evening with a factory Briggs.....first one for me as well.


----------



## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

cranman said:


> I just picked up an ST 1136 this evening with a factory Briggs.....first one for me as well.


heres a st1236 askung 450
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/grd/d/ariens-12hp-36-snowblower/6456471497.html


----------

