# HSS928 Spark Plug change



## mjdvet111 (Jul 26, 2018)

I changed the spark plug, but it doesn't seem to thread all the way in to the very top of the threads (from what I can tell by feeling in there, it's a tight spot to see into). When installing, I started it by hand, then it took what seemed like a reasonable amount of turns with the ratchet. It got tight; it didn't spin endlessly. For what it's worth, the engine "sounds" like it's running normally, and the RPM is 3610 to 3630, with no misfiring and no rough running sounds. But I wonder if the plug is properly positioned in the cylinder. It's only the 2nd plug change, and each time I've tried not to use an overly head hand when tightening. 

What do other guys see, does the plug thread all the way in very easily until the washer at the top of the threads seats firmly?

Could the threads really be stripped? Or would the plug not screw in at all, and not STAY in when running, if that were the case? The threads on the plug that came out look normal from what I could see. No obvious stripped threads or cross threads.

Could it be cross threaded? Has anyone used either a spark plug thread chaser (screw in)? Or a back tap (insert in, expand, screw out)? Either looks simple enough to use...I assume these tools just clean up the threads to allow the plug to thread in cleanly?


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## Miles (Sep 16, 2016)

It sounds like you did everything properly. You threaded in by hand and it got tight/seated with the ratchet. The engine is running normally. It doesn't sound like the threads are stripped or cross threaded because you started it by hand and it screwed in without a problem by hand, until you needed the ratchet. Don't use a thread chaser or a tap at this point. You are not having problems with the plug. I usually do not mess with the spark plugs, unless the engine starts to run roughly. Then I will check the gap. I have two years on the HSS928 without any plug change and it runs just fine. As little as it runs in a winter, I don't expect a plug change for many years. When I do change the plug, it will be done on a cold engine. I really have just changed plugs on cars, never on this snowblower, but the principles are the same. There are pros here who certainly know more than I do though.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

+1 on what Miles told you.
That washer on your plug is a crush washer. Compare a used plug washer to a new one.
If I were you I'd probably check the maual and torque it down with a torque wrench and *leave it. *Check it from time to time to make sure it's still tight.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF mjdvet111


.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i take the muffler off to get a better view. 12mm head bolts.

easy-peasy


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## mjdvet111 (Jul 26, 2018)

Thanks for the tips guys. I managed to get it seated all the way by using a spark plug chaser with some anti-seize on it to clean out the threads. I threaded it in slowly, and then backed it out. Rinse repeat. Then I was able to start the plug by hand, then use the ratchet, and now it offered up many more turns until it seated with a normal feel (and looks seated). Perhaps the threads were clogged before with deposits, or perhaps they were lightly cross threaded. I thought she was running Ok before, but it sounds even better. RPM still good. Here's what I used for anyone else that stumbles upon this thread (pun intended).

OEM brand "Limited Access Spark Plug Chaser", part #25155. I got this at AutoZone, 10 bucks or so. Simple to use with a 3/8 ratchet extension, and some anti-seize on the threads (what a diff that makes).


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

mjdvet111 said:


> Thanks for the tips guys. I managed to get it seated all the way by using a spark plug chaser with some anti-seize on it to clean out the threads. I threaded it in slowly, and then backed it out. Rinse repeat. Then I was able to start the plug by hand, then use the ratchet, and now it offered up many more turns until it seated with a normal feel (and looks seated). Perhaps the threads were clogged before with deposits, or perhaps they were lightly cross threaded. I thought she was running Ok before, but it sounds even better. RPM still good. Here's what I used for anyone else that stumbles upon this thread (pun intended).
> 
> OEM brand "Limited Access Spark Plug Chaser", part #25155. I got this at AutoZone, 10 bucks or so. Simple to use with a 3/8 ratchet extension, and some anti-seize on the threads (what a diff that makes).
> 
> View attachment 149607


i also use that other tool I think @jlawrence suggested. You can put grease on it , put it in and then wrench it out. it will repair threads and clean it out at same time. don't know how to link the product but it worked for me on several occasions.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

I use this style Spark Plug Tap-Cleaner. The advantage being, that it starts off at the Bottom of the Threads, usually where they are undamaged. It is installed, then turned CCW, backing out of the hole, using the good threads to guide it properly. Problem with a standard tap, is that it is hard to keep it straight, ESP on OHV engines. Plus it's tough to tell, by feel, if it's cleaning up damaged threads, or cutting new crooked threads. Pricey if it's a 1-time use, Priceless to me. BUT, beats time lost, using a heli-coil (or other thread-serts), or possibly a new cylinder head if things go really sideways. Available in all popular plug sizes.




https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014FGVVW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1



GLuck, Jay


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JayzAuto1 said:


> I use this style Spark Plug Tap-Cleaner. The advantage being, that it starts off at the Bottom of the Threads, usually where they are undamaged. It is installed, then turned CCW, backing out of the hole, using the good threads to guide it properly. Problem with a standard tap, is that it is hard to keep it straight, ESP on OHV engines. Plus it's tough to tell, by feel, if it's cleaning up damaged threads, or cutting new crooked threads. Pricey if it's a 1-time use, Priceless to me. BUT, beats time lost, using a heli-coil (or other thread-serts), or possibly a new cylinder head if things go really sideways. Available in all popular plug sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks. That's the tool I have used on just 3 occasions . The first time I had a little trouble but once you learn how to use it worked really well 2 times. I thought I had a damaged head on a HS828 that my neighbor forced a plug into. It took patience and over an hour but we got it cleaned up and the new plug went in nice and snug.

I think it paid for itself already.


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