# Need some help with an old 924044



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

Hello All. 

I came across this amazing site after doing some research on this particular machine that I just took possession of. It used to be my grandfather's, which was then passed to my dad, and now has made it's way to me. It hasn't been run in a few years, so I decided to break it down a little to see what all I could find. Unfortunately, when I took the starter off, I noticed what appears to be a crack in the block. I'm guessing that it threw a rod at some point?

I'm totally bummed as I was originally hoping to throw a new carb on, change the oil, grease the fittings, and get it back to running again. But now it looks like that's not going to happen. 

What are my choices as far as a replacement engine goes? Do I need to find an original one or are there direct bolt on aftermarket ones available? 

Also looks like I'll need a new friction wheel. 

Here are a few pics


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

That does look like a thrown rod.

I would say look at the 301cc or 420cc Predators at Harbor Freight. If you had the 24" model then the 212cc would work fine. Also looks like you are correct about the friction disc. You other option is keep an eye on your local craigslist for someone selling a junker with a decent engine.


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

Thanks for the quick reply. Would you happen to know if the 301 or 420 would be a direct fit for bolt placement, shaft height/diameter? I know I need to go take some measurements of the existing one.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Most likely they will be a direct fit. Your only issue is likely to be you will need to bend the chute crank bracket slightly to fit around the OHV design. The other thing you will need is new bolts for the front of the engine. That will probably be 1 bolt for the crankshaft and 2 for the belt guide. The threads in the front of the new engine will be different.

You could also look around for a Briggs or Tecumseh of similar size.

See here:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/re-powering/


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

Probably a dumb question, but where would I get the bolts? And the shaft height in relation to everything else probably isn't as important since I could compensate by getting a different length belt?


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

bndawgs said:


> Probably a dumb question, but where would I get the bolts? And the shaft height in relation to everything else probably isn't as important since I could compensate by getting a different length belt?


For the bolts, hardware store.
Browse thru the repowering threads on the previous link, you will get an idea on what the process will be.


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

From the muffler shape, I'm speculating it might be the 7hp Tecumseh? These older Ariens are fairly common around here, though yours looks like it's in nice shape. If it was appealing, you might be able to find one inexpensively with a blown auger gearbox, etc, then swap the engines. 

Repowering it with a Predator engine, or similar, could be a fun project, of course, and newer engines have their benefits. You would likely need to remove the air cleaner from the new engine, and maybe make a shroud to use exhaust heat to keep the carb warm. 

Good luck, please let us know how it goes if you repower it with a new engine!


----------



## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

That is an 10hp Engine with a 1" crank. The 8hp predator would be an easy swap. It would mount in the same spot as the original engine, and the Original Engine pulley would fit as well. There are no chute crank modifications needed. Here's a pic of a newer but somewhat similar machine with a 6.5 predator conversion. Friction wheel is an easy fix on that model!


----------



## ProParts (Jan 27, 2016)

Here is a link to the parts diagram for your 924044. Hope it helps if you need other parts. Give a call if so...


----------



## toroused (Mar 1, 2015)

Here's an Ariens product line summary-through-the-ages piece as taken from the website of a repair guy who is located in Newton, Mass., just outside of Boston. The piece is essentially a homage to the Ariens 924 series model and should get you excited and motivated about the potential end result of your upcoming project.

Link: Article 17: A Brief History of Ariens Mid-Sized Snow Blowers — Jay's Power Equipment

Jay also wrote a follow up to that particular piece this past fall and that latest article is below:

Link: Article 23: Buying a Used Snow Blower — Jay's Power Equipment


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

Thanks guys for the replies. Apart from the engine, are there any other areas that I should be concerned with? 

I do have to look at the left tire as it won't hold air currently. 

Here's a few other pics of the machine


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

toroused said:


> Here's an Ariens product line summary-through-the-ages piece as taken from the website of a repair guy who is located in Newton, Mass., just outside of Boston. The piece is essentially a homage to the Ariens 924 series model and should get you excited and motivated about the potential end result of your upcoming project.
> 
> Link: Article 17: A Brief History of Ariens Mid-Sized Snow Blowers — Jay's Power Equipment
> 
> ...



Thanks for those. I actually came across the first link while searching around for info. 

I am excited to get this thing running again as it's been in my family for almost 40 yrs. There's a lot of fond memories of when my dad used to run it, including the snow storm where he basically had to plow the entire street and all 10 houses because after waiting for 3 days, it was obvious the trucks weren't going to get to us for awhile.


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

Just an update to this, still working on a mounting option for a predator 301. However in the meantime, I've been going over the machine making sure everything else looks in good shape. And I've discovered that I need a new Auger shaft bearing? Part # 05416000 or # 60 on the parts diagram. 

Would I be ok with this one Ariens 54160, 05405200, 05416000 | Ariens 54052 54160 05405200/05416000

Or should I go with the oem Ariens one? Just curious why the one from usabearings is so much cheaper?


----------



## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Should get bushings for the auger while you have it apart. Also look at the drive axle bushings. Throw a impeller kit on while your at it. Then let your dad run it!


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

drive axle bushings appear to still be in good shape. I had taken off that pulley and noticed that the auger shaft had a ton of play in it. i don't know if i want to do the impeller kit. will be something i'll probably put on the back burner.

but i'm just curious if there is a reason the replacement bearing is so much cheaper


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I had to replace the impeller bearing in my Ariens blower when I bought it (used machine). I opted to go with the OEM Ariens bearing. I don't know if it's really required/justified or not, vs aftermarket. But frankly, it was a pain to get to, and to replace (everything was rusted solidly in-place, so it took quite a bit to get the old one out). I didn't relish the idea of doing it again soon, so I decided to go with the OEM bearing.


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

RedOctobyr said:


> I had to replace the impeller bearing in my Ariens blower when I bought it (used machine). I opted to go with the OEM Ariens bearing. I don't know if it's really required/justified or not, vs aftermarket. But frankly, it was a pain to get to, and to replace (everything was rusted solidly in-place, so it took quite a bit to get the old one out). I didn't relish the idea of doing it again soon, so I decided to go with the OEM bearing.


impeller bearing. so that's what it's called. 

that is a good point about being a pain to get to.


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

I'm assuming that this is the inner part of the impeller bearing and that i didn't luck out with having an easy fix?

Also, any tricks to getting that woodruff key out?


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

ok, took out the auger and rake assembly and it looks to be welded to the impeller. so i think i'm in good shape there actually. so it appears that the bearing will fit over the woodruff key and sit on the outside of that raised part. 

i finally realized that the outside part of the bearing is what's sitting in the hole there and the inside part was what i took off the other day. :smiley-confused009:


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

bndawgs said:


> I'm assuming that this is the inner part of the impeller bearing and that i didn't luck out with having an easy fix?
> 
> Also, any tricks to getting that woodruff key out?


I documented some of my struggles with replacing my impeller bearing in another thread a few years ago, here: 
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...19082-impeller-bearing-play-acceptable-2.html

Posts #30 & 31 are about removing the woodruff key, #31 describes how I had to finally weld a piece of scrap steel to the key, so that I could work the key back and forth in the slot, and finally got it out of the shaft. It was in there TIGHT. 

My bearing slid right along the outside diameter of the shaft. The woodruff key had to be removed, the bearing slid down the shaft, then the key installed. 

If yours is different, and the bearing can slide past the key, that could make things quite a bit easier. 

My stuff was all rusted together, I would suggest liberally coating things with anti-seize before reassembling. Like the shaft's surface, the key, the inside of the pulley hub, fasteners, etc. If the machine had been assembled with anti-seize from the factory, it would have saved me a ton of aggravation! Don't put anti-seize on surfaces that are actually spinning, it's not a lubricant. Don't put it on the sliding surfaces of bushings, for instance.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That friction disc looks like it's about used up with all the cracking of the rubber. If you're going through all this now might be a good time to replace it too.

http://partsradar.arinet.com/script...F=Empartweb&loginID=ariensc&loginpwd=consumer

Using Ariens Parts Radar I think it's P/N 00300300 $11.89 with a 1 yr warranty at Oreilly
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=7-04211


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> That friction disc looks like it's about used up with all the cracking of the rubber. If you're going through all this now might be a good time to replace it too.
> 
> ' + objMainFrame.arrApplicationTitle['EN'] + ' -- PartSmart Web Version 5.14.59
> 
> ...


yes, that's on the parts list as well. thanks for that link to oreillys. didn't think to look there. 

so far, it looks like i need a new friction disc, impeller bearing, and outside flange bearing. and i still have to look at the left tire to see why it won't hold air. 

for the belts, do you happen to know the length of the stock belts? My new predator 301 is going to sit about 1 3/8" higher, so I need to get longer belts. just not sure where to look for suitable replacements.


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

RedOctobyr said:


> I documented some of my struggles with replacing my impeller bearing in another thread a few years ago, here:
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...19082-impeller-bearing-play-acceptable-2.html
> 
> Posts #30 & 31 are about removing the woodruff key, #31 describes how I had to finally weld a piece of scrap steel to the key, so that I could work the key back and forth in the slot, and finally got it out of the shaft. It was in there TIGHT.
> ...



yeah, i think i'm going to leave the woodruff key in. i tried the chisel route and it started to split the key. 

i believe that the new bearing will slide over the metal part there up against the auger as it appears to be welded to the auger blade itself. 
now if i have to take the auger blade off, then i would have to take out the woodruff key.


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

still moving along with this project. I've replaced the auger bearing, just waiting on the outside flange before I can button up the blower portion backup. 

Had a question on the tires. One tire is leaking near the rim. I took the old tire off and sanded the rim fairly well and tried the old tire again, but I think the tire bead is too cut up. Should I just get a tube or is it worth getting a new tire(s)?

Or I guess I could just get this one?:dizzy:

New Ariens Tire 16x6 5 8 2 Ply Part 07102100 for Snow Blowers Fits ST832 | eBay


----------



## The_Geologist (Feb 6, 2016)

Unless there are some rough patches inside the rim, a tube should fix the issue.

Tubing the tire has worked well for me on riding mower tires when a similar situation has come up.


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The_Geologist said:


> Unless there are some rough patches inside the rim, a tube should fix the issue.
> 
> Tubing the tire has worked well for me on riding mower tires when a similar situation has come up.


Another vote for just getting a tube. I wasted a bunch of time trying to help address leaky tires on my tractor. Finally put tubes in them, and they were fine. 

They're usually not very expensive on eBay, and it's almost guaranteed to fix a leak. A new tire might not do it. You could try replacing the valve, but if it's definitely leaking due to the rim/bead, it won't help.


----------



## bndawgs (Jan 27, 2016)

RedOctobyr said:


> Another vote for just getting a tube. I wasted a bunch of time trying to help address leaky tires on my tractor. Finally put tubes in them, and they were fine.
> 
> They're usually not very expensive on eBay, and it's almost guaranteed to fix a leak. A new tire might not do it. You could try replacing the valve, but if it's definitely leaking due to the rim/bead, it won't help.


Yup, that was my thinking as well. The valve stem was good, so it was definitely either the rim or the tire bead. I'm leaning towards the bead itself, since the tire is probably the original one. Ordered a tube off Amazon for $12, so I'll throw that in and then put the chains back on. 

Only thing left to do now is get some new longer belts, so I can line up the engine and and get the mounting plate situated. Then I'm all set for summer. Lol


----------

