# Ariens 1027LE



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I came across a Ariens 1027LE that was from a estate sale and the seller knows nothing about them and just wants to sell it, It was made in 08-09 from what I can tell, what should I offer, He's thinking around $400 but I think I might be able to talk him down if he can't get it to start. Looks as though it's been in storage and paint is in great shape (Doesn't look like it's been used much at all) Hoping I could keep this one for me and sell what I have.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

well driving a little better than a hour and meeting him at 5 with a new spark plug and starting fluid and see the real condition, Hope its good but looks good in the pic, may come home with it then to get it running well and put the MTD for sale cheap and my snapper I may keep for a backup but may sell also


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

It looks pretty clean. $400 seems a fair price for a well made machine.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Hoping the engine is good, Talked with the guy and he really has no clue on engines, He buys estate sales and abandoned storage units and does not deal with engines but this came with a lot so he just wants it gone, If it fires up on starting fluid I'm good to go and then I'll go through it and keep t for me. Will try to bring down the price but if it is in good shape I'll go with the $400 since that I already have in the snow blower fund


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## unvjustintime (Dec 15, 2016)

If carb is plugged negotiate down $25-50 for a new one. Worked for me


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Let us know how it turns out.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Was def NOT the one in the pic, Not THAT bad but most of the welds had rust coming through but no rot so should clean up nicely with some touch up paint, Going to go through it and check all the bearings and the one thing that was broke is the gear to turn the chute, It has the quick chute option, also the lever for the 0 deg turn they used back then has half the screw in it hanging by the cable but easy enough to put a new bolt, axle seems to be having both wheels locked together so I'll have to re mount it to see if it still works, With the list of things I found I told him $200 seeing the rest wasn't really in that bad shape but $200 was low even in my opinion and he was ready to let me walk for that offer and he said the best he would go is $300 so we made the deal, Well AFTER I got it to fire up with starter fluid and a fresh plug. Just ordered the kit for the quick chute and both gears so it just cost me another $51 but I think for $351 it may turn out a decent blower for that price, Although I don't know how much more it will need to get it back to good working order but will be worth it to have a good ariens in the stable.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Congratulations on the acquisition !! :icon-woo:


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

:blowerhug: YUP and i'll be starting the teardown tomorrow, first the carb then the belts and see how it runs then see how the rest is.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

" But I think for $351 it may turn out a decent blower for that price " 

Hmmmmmmmmmm........
Something about that number I Like :icon-clapping-smile
Plus it's an ariens, Can't go wrong . 

Always been my favorite number ever since I was Possessed to put a
351 Cleveland into my 66 Mustang Coupe... 
Not an easy task for 1966, but you could put a 460 in 1967 after they stretched the engine compartment. But it was fun to do & race at New England Dragway.

Now I've moved on to Ariens


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

Please show a few pixx of what you find. Thanks


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

No pics but so far so good, Belts actually look good and no wobble on the impeller bearing but going to check out more closely after I get everything running, the lever and cable for the turning this thing was not attached and part of a broken screw still in the handle so since the cable was not in the best of shape I went to my local Ariens dealer and got the new handle and cable, EWWW and the carb.... This poor thing had been sitting a long time, Carb barely moved and the bowl was a mess of white crusty stuff BUT I have the old carb from my wood chipper (Same Tecumseh 10HP engine) well anyhow pulled the plastic float out of the white crusty mess and put it in the wood chipper carb that ran great but had a leaking brass float (HEY I didn't want to wait LOL A new carb has been ordered anyway with adjustable needles) But sadly its cold and pouring rain so no pulling out of the over stuffed garage to test run, Will do that tomorrow and open up the gearbox and hope it's in decent shape while I change out the cable. I'll try and remember pics tomorrow.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Ok a little update, have not done a lot due to the cold and already have a blower so taking my time and going to do this right, have a pile of parts in, New gears for the chute controls, new drive wheel since I'll have it apart I may as well put one in, new auger bearing and most of what's been holding me up is deciding what to do about the axle which is FUBAR Shaw has given me a few great suggestions and even offered to help if needed (real nice guy and thank you much for your offers) what I think I may do which I discovered in a thread here is they make a kit to add auto turn to these older blowers, a few $$$ but since I'm planning to keep this machine I really don't mind spending a little on it, Soon plan to put the auger bearing in and paint to inside of the bucket, auger and impeller while I have it all apart anyway and that will give me a little time to think if I want to spend the money, and replace any parts needed as I pull it apart. The poor neglected old girl is getting a second chance on life and hopefully lasts me a good few more years.


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

Sounds like you're doing it right. Would love to see some pictures of your project; especially when changing the auger bearing.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

May try today if I can get out of work early enough, It was upgraded to a double belt pulley at some point so I'm hoping it's not too rusted on but will find out hopefully tonight.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I actually ordered some Allis Chalmers Orange today with a few other things I need, Had a fight with it today trying to get the pulley off, I think I may need the Mapp gas for this one, Wanted to drill holes and use a puller but there is no room to get the nuts on behind the pulley due to it being a double belt auger pulley, Bearing is def wasted, Can actually move the shaft around and worst case if I destroy the pulley it's $45 for a new one. Getting expensive but I'll get there.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GAfternoon Duntae, How thick is the pulley flange? What is the diameter? What I've done before, is drill 1/4 x 28 holes though the face of the pulley flange, close to the center, but NOT touching the shaft. By threading them, you won't need nuts and can use a small puller. Haet and beat a little and they will usually free up. Worst case scenario, (mis-drilled), it needed a pulley anyway. I've had 90% success rate. GLuck, Jay


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks Jay, a good idea but you honestly can't really tell on this pulley, I goes on the keyed shaft and bottoms out in the hole on the pulley with only a hole big enough to fit the bolt, Really tight fit with this pulley, I think this is right before the started putting a flange on the shaft and 3 bolts to hold the pulley on, When I look up parts I come across both pulley's with and without the flange, Biggest issue is it's a double pulley so I can't really even got anything under it either


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Took a little drive today with the 1027 to visit Shaw351, One heck of a nice guy. Helped me get the rust welded pulley off to change the auger bearing, Now have it all apart and will be cleaning out any rust and doing some painting, We had to cut the pulley off due to how badly it was rusted but they sell a kit for the 926 (uses the same pulley) that comes with the both pullies and a a new idler pulley with arm for only $10 more than the pulley alone AND it comes with 2 new belts. This one has a double belt pulley for the auger so I spent the extra $10. And I just want to thank Shaw351 once again, he's got a nice shop also.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

Dauntae said:


> Took a little drive today with the 1027 to visit Shaw351, One heck of a nice guy. Helped me get the rust welded pulley off to change the auger bearing, Now have it all apart and will be cleaning out any rust and doing some painting, We had to cut the pulley off due to how badly it was rusted but they sell a kit for the 926 (uses the same pulley) that comes with the both pullies and a a new idler pulley with arm for only $10 more than the pulley alone AND it comes with 2 new belts. This one has a double belt pulley for the auger so I spent the extra $10. And I just want to thank Shaw351 once again, he's got a nice shop also.


Your welcome, im always glad to help others. This Arien's pulley was one of the worst I've ever had to do, because we were not able to use a large puller to get it off due to the fact this pulley Hub only had a 5/16 through hole to the main shaft, not an open 3/4 inch hole as most others are. 

Love to pass on knowledge and experience to perpetuate the trade crafts. Most young people today would rather just throw something away and buy new rather than learn how to fix it themselves. Sadly the new items that you buy today are not as well made as machines and things from yesteryear. Fortunately we have a place like snowblower forums.com to keep things alive and well. :icon-cheers:


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

HMMMMMM, Not much pulley to work with. Did you guys ever try an 'Induction Heater'? They have a flexible loop adapter that may get behind a pulley. I've never used one for that application, but it may be worth a try. Jay


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

JayzAuto1 said:


> HMMMMMM, Not much pulley to work with. Did you guys ever try an 'Induction Heater'? They have a flexible loop adapter that may get behind a pulley. I've never used one for that application, but it may be worth a try. Jay


Hey Jay, ive used them out in the field but don't have one at home. This pulley system must have been in a transition year, where they had to use everything that was on the Shelf. As you can see from the picture it is a eight and a half inch diameter pulley with a blind hole Hub in the middle that fits over the shaft that is almost like a socket with a 5/16 hole in one end. Then the second pulley is closest to the bucket and it is held in place merely sitting on the Hub and have three bolts through the outer pulley with a spacer in the middle to pinch them together. The space between the inner pulley and the bucket was less than three sixteenth of an inch, could not get a wedge or anything behind it without deforming the pulley or bowing the bucket. I was going to weld a couple nuts on the outer pulley to use as a push puller with a puller, but you only have access to the shaft through that 5/16 inch hole and the amount of force it would take would just crush the bolt. We had it pretty hot with the map gas but it was not budging. I cut off the outer pulley off of the Hub, then was able to wedge back and forth the inner pulley off of the Hub so the only thing left on the end of the shaft was the Hub. Heated up the Hub again and then tried using a puller and all it did was crush the bolt !!
It was game on then... Took a grinder and cut through the outer Hub to the shaft to relieve the pressure from the rust, still did not want to come off it was incredible !! Then took a BFH and a chisel and wedged into the grinder cut and was able to shatter part of the Hub and then get the rest of it off the end of the shaft. It was the same type of deal to get the impeller bearing off, but In the end we managed to get everything off and no damage to the shaft.

Crazy job it was :banghead::banghead::banghead:


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

WOW, I guess so, I had a hard time picturing that setup in my head. I just re-read that post that mentioned 'Double-Pulley", that's a game changer, not to mention the diameter of the pulley. No room to work. Not much you can do there but sacrifice it at that point. The important thing is that it's done, and you look good doing it!! Buying the kit is a no-brainer too....Might as well get the most for your dollars. GLuck, Jay


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

Was told this is a 2010 or so model, thats only 6 or 7 years in service. From the wear on this machine im sure it had commercial usage, but its still not that old for this much rust.
The more I work on these new machines, the more I like the older ones !!! 
I'll take a 1970 Ariens 24 inch snowblower over a 2017 Any day.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Shaw I did a little more investigating, It looks like this was made in 2007 to 2008 for production yrs, not a whole lot older but only 2 years made as far as I can find. I'll post some more later when I get a chance.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I always use a "pickle fork" tool for taking off impeller pulleys. It has a 3/4 inch slot with a wedge on each side of the opening used to take tie rods off in cars....just jam it in behind the pulley hub and hit with hammer. The wedge presses the hub away from the bearing. One you get far enough away...put a second one behind the first and repeat. I've had !00% success with this method. I just did two this morning swapping out an impeller gearbox from one ST 824 to an early 924 series. No heat or solvent used, just loosen the two set screws and hammer off.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

cranman said:


> I always use a "pickle fork" tool for taking off impeller pulleys. It has a 3/4 inch slot with a wedge on each side of the opening used to take tie rods off in cars....just jam it in behind the pulley hub and hit with hammer. The wedge presses the hub away from the bearing. One you get far enough away...put a second one behind the first and repeat. I've had !00% success with this method. I just did two this morning swapping out an impeller gearbox from one ST 824 to an early 924 series. No heat or solvent used, just loosen the two set screws and hammer off.


OH we tried, biggest issue was we were not able to get them behind the pulley due to there being no space


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

That was my first tool to try on this application, but didn't work. This setup is not like all the others ive worked on, we had two forks in between the bearing and back of pulley hub, all it did was force the bearong back and bow the bucket towards the impeller. On this weird setup there is over an inch or more between the bearing and the back of the impeller, it just free floats in there. The pulley is fixed on the shaft due to the blind hole / pocket of the hub. Guess i could of tried to add a third fork between the inside of bucket and impeller, but not much space or access. Ive done more than i can remember, this one was a first for me. 
Shame Shame on engineers for poor design, and also for not putting a dab of lubricant on end of shaft.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

10 days short of a month, I ordered on 1/20/17 the double pulley kit is FINALLY on the way. Got the email from Jacks a little while ago. No paint other than the augers with epoxy paint but I can finally start getting this thing back together. Next to pull apart the tractor and put all the new bushings and bearings in and THEN hope for one more snow fall to try it out. Then take it all apart again in the spring and get it ready to be painted LOL Can't wait until this one is done.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Dauntae, I've had the same problem with Jack's. I asked why can't they shoot me an email if a part IS NOT in stock. I understand they can't stock everything, shipping, other people.....Blah Blah Blah. But they will hold up a 30 piece order for ONE backorder!!!! They said they don't have 'Real Time Inventory Ordering'..... Translation Please?? Oh, antiquated system. We can put men on the moon, but have to wait for a post card in the mail to find out a part is out of stock. They said "Call In Your Order", we can give an immediate update. Thanx Jack. I'll just mail my order on a postcard....and wait for spring for my snowblower parts. 

GLuck, Jay


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Well the kit arrived today so went right to work putting the bucket back together, Painted the augers, New bushings made with some high end bearing grade plastic that was left over from a job at work, Better than the nylon ones they sell, a lot of new bolts, No paint except the chute lower part and lots of orange peel, At least it's orange LOL but this is all back together ready to mount until I pull it apart to paint. Nice new pulley too. AND never seize on everything LOL


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Dauntae...... You may as well paint it now. Your in kinda deep. The machine looks like it's warm and dry. AND, the walls for the NEW PAINT BOOTH are already up!!!!!! If you start tonite, you can shoot it and have it dry in time for Monday's cleanup!!!

GLuck, Jay


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

that's the basement of my late 1800's house LOL sorta dra but not THAT warm, Besides I still got my snapper although THIS one would make it SO much easier to do it. Besides you still have to do some welding on this part of it LOL I'll get some pics of the damage tomorrow. :icon-hgtg:


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

You need to let any new painting you do set in for a week or two.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

GoBlowSnow said:


> You need to let any new painting you do set in for a week or two.


r

Yes, painted the chute a few weeks ago, orange peel the next day, temp dropped quit a bit that night. Then decided I'd wait, have a small sand blaster but may get something bigger and blast the whole thing, has the dreaded Ariens powder coat so getting that off and a good coat of paint would be nice.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Well the rebuild continues, Yesterday started tearing down the gearbox and the shaft with the sprocket/gear that has a grease fitting?????? Ummmm well the previous owner apparently had not idea what that grease fitting was. So pulled it out, Measured it and made a new one, Material wise, I didn't want to use normal stainless (all we have is stainless) because it's actually rather soft in comparison to steel, BUT 440 is a different story, So found some 5/8 440 and went to town on the lathe and bridgeport hehe. In the pic you can see the wear, gear actually wasn't so bad but got new sleeves and everything is nice and solid and smooth there anyway, Put a new spring pin, Had some new clips on hand although they are of a different type but I can always get new ones if these get in the way. Next is to pull the axle and clean and replace all bushings and spring and everything else in there and hopefully it works as it should. Last will be the drive wheel shaft, May get new bearings but they seem pretty good although the shaft needs to be banged out of the center due to being rusted in, Got one side out but got kind of late and stopped for the night last night. OH on the new shaft I made it slightly longer where the grease fitting goes because the hole is ever so slightly enlarged, People weld on washers to fix but no welder nor do I know how to weld so a little longer and I may make a collar to go on the end with 3 holes around it to screw it onto the housing to hold it in place, Sad thing is I have a assembled St1027LE in my basement ATM and it WON'T fit out in one piece LOL so some disassembly required once I am done LOL

Notice the wear groove in the shaft









in and the gear is now so smooth turning









the extra bit of shaft with the new grease fitting


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

Dauntae said:


> Well the rebuild continues, Yesterday started tearing down the gearbox and the shaft with the sprocket/gear that has a grease fitting?????? Ummmm well the previous owner apparently had not idea what that grease fitting was. So pulled it out, Measured it and made a new one, Material wise, I didn't want to use normal stainless (all we have is stainless) because it's actually rather soft in comparison to steel, BUT 440 is a different story, So found some 5/8 440 and went to town on the lathe and bridgeport hehe. In the pic you can see the wear, gear actually wasn't so bad but got new sleeves and everything is nice and solid and smooth there anyway, Put a new spring pin, Had some new clips on hand although they are of a different type but I can always get new ones if these get in the way. Next is to pull the axle and clean and replace all bushings and spring and everything else in there and hopefully it works as it should. Last will be the drive wheel shaft, May get new bearings but they seem pretty good although the shaft needs to be banged out of the center due to being rusted in, Got one side out but got kind of late and stopped for the night last night. OH on the new shaft I made it slightly longer where the grease fitting goes because the hole is ever so slightly enlarged, People weld on washers to fix but no welder nor do I know how to weld so a little longer and I may make a collar to go on the end with 3 holes around it to screw it onto the housing to hold it in place, Sad thing is I have a assembled St1027LE in my basement ATM and it WON'T fit out in one piece LOL so some disassembly required once I am done LOL
> 
> Notice the wear groove in the shaft in and the gear is now so smooth turning


Nice work there. Don't forget to change out the rubber wheel while you're at it. From the picture it looks kind of flat already.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

all3939 said:


> Nice work there. Don't forget to change out the rubber wheel while you're at it. From the picture it looks kind of flat already.


Already have one in a box with all the other parts, I however can't seem to get one of the screws out, May have to drill it out but that goes with the territory I guess, A few new screws at this point LOL


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## BeerGhost (Dec 17, 2013)

Nice work on the shaft! that extended shaft is begging for a bronze bushing with a grease zerk to be bolted to the housing. I like overkill!


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

BeerGhost said:


> Nice work on the shaft! that extended shaft is begging for a bronze bushing with a grease zerk to be bolted to the housing. I like overkill!


OH we have THAT over kill in common, Well except the shaft does NOT rotate LOL other end has a spring pin with a plate against he pin and side of shaft to keep it from rotating, So no zerk required. Besides stainless looks so much cooler, If I keep at it I may have a delorean snow blower


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Well that axle was such a pain in the @$$ to get apart but I was persistent and finally got it out, Only if I could get the wheels off, No pics today but will when I reassemble. The 3 1/4-20 bolts that hold the collars on both sides that the axle goes through, Well I got 2 out and 4 snapped due to being seriously rusted, Thus not reassembled yet. Will be bringing them to work to drill out the broken bolts and clean the threads, Then using stainless bolts to put it back together. All the parts I ordered I def needed and the ones I didn't were not needed, I got lucky on that one but the wheel release seems in really good shape and I think it will work well once I get it back together. Lets see, rebuilt auger with all new bushings and bearings and new pulley, Going through the gear box rebuilding so that should be ah well better than new since I am making a lot of stuff using much higher grade materials. Plan to paint this summer, GOD I pray the engine is as good as it seem to run when I first got it home, All this and if the engine implodes LOL I'll be searching for a new engine LOL. Needless to say I have learned tons from this rebuild and now I can use a lot of what I learned repairing old ones for resale for next winter. AND I will have one beast of a snow blower that I can take pride in. Not to mention I will know every inch of this thing and be able to know exactly what to fix if anything should go wrong. Love this hng. But sill kind of want the auto steer option, who knows. Girlfriend loves me projects and she hunts and finds more cheap blowers than I do, I think me giving her one of the $50 finds after going through i was a big help, She LOVES the Toro 521 I got her that now starts first pull and knows how much I enjoy fixing these things. Got a good blower now and a better woman that helps me find more. Life is good and should have this thing running moving snow (at least ready too anyway) in a few days if all goes right. Well I'll have pics tomorrow on this rebuild.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Well gearbox is done....For now anyway lol, New friction disk installed, Had to go buy a new T40 torx as my old one was slipping a bit and the new one worked nicely, Everything is smooth and NO slop and everything is solid, The wheel release however does work, but rather sporadically and is random whether it will lock the wheel or not so I am going to just leave it locked and not worry about it for now. I'm thinking once I get the rest all together and make sure of the reliability of the engine I will be ordering the auto turn kit but that gives me a little time to save. Now I just need to pull the bucket off again and get it back into the garage. So what was done on this? ,

1) all new bearings and bushings throughout the entire machine other than the engine.
2) New gears for the chute turning and locking.
3) New impeller bearing.
4) New pulley for the auger
5) new bushings for the auger (this thing turns smoothly now)
6) all cables have been replaced with new
and I know there is more but just can't think of it all ATM but I will be pulling out of the basement and having it all in working order this weekend and hoping I get to try it out a little. Hope the remaining snow doesn't all melt by this weekend LOL

everything back together, OH and I still have to grease everything and clean all the PB blaster and crud out.








New friction disk








and the dreaded wheel lock that hates me LOL


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

well last piece for the gearbox done, A washer welded on would be fine but this looks so much better. Just need to drill some holes for the screws and shaft will be well supported.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

You really went all out. Looks great. :hope:


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

I would do the same. When I start something in my machine shop you can't get me out of there. Us tool and die guys go overboard all the time because it's second nature to do it only the best way.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks, I can't wait to paint this thing, Kind of disappointed the wheel lock isn't working well but the auto turn will be a nice upgrade.



all3939 said:


> I would do the same. When I start something in my machine shop you can't get me out of there. Us tool and die guys go overboard all the time because it's second nature to do it only the best way.


it's a addiction isn't it LOL

Seeing the wheels are rust welded on the axle I found these, same Kenda tires that are on it now with the good tread pattern and new wheels. Good price too, especially comparing it to the Ariens price.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.axd/Search?keywords=15X5.00-6 Less than $100 for the set on rims


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Dauntae, Looks great so far...Couple questions tho: 1) what is that machined piece for? and why weld a washer to it? 2) Axle disconnect looks like it's connected properly...What's it/not doing??? Does the cable pull on that gear? And the gear slide on the splines?? I've fixed 2 this week and that looks correct. 3) Does G/F have a single identical twin?? Doesn't have to be single, matters not to me.

Thanx, Jay


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

LOL Jay no twin and TRUST me.... You wouldn't want her sisters LOL 

1) the shaft I replaced was badly grooved from neglect and got hammered on by the gear and the hole in the side that holds it was starting to get a bit loose and I've seen on this forum people welding a washer there that the shaft fits in to support it, Shaw351 I think put the post about it too. This one was not that bad but it DID give me a excuse to make stuff hehe, Since I was already making a new shaft I just made is slightly longer to be able to be held by the collar.

2) Everything DOES work properly-ish, But the axle itself was so badly pitted underneath it it keeps getting hung up, This thing was NEVER lubed is my guess and rust was real bad on a lot of areas, To get the axle pieces to replace that pitted parts would cost $80 from the cheapest places I could find, If I was going to spend that much I figure I may as well just spend a little more and get the auto turn, Because either way I would need to get new wheels because these are seriously rust welded to the pitted axle, Tried a torch and got it glowing then pressing the axle in a hydraulic press and not even budged. So I am just not going to pull the lever if a freak snow storm hits before spring.

3) Like I said, I got the good one in her seriously crazy family, She does a lot of own work on her jeep too, I keep telling her she needs a good hobby like rebuilding small engines..... I get the rolled eyes on that one, But I'm still working it on that one LOL


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

well got it all back together and tried it on what's left of the snow, The big slushy piles still melting from the last snow fall lol, Well anyhow it actually chewed right through it and threw it quite the distance. I was happy, A few little engine things to deal with though, First was there is a hole in the side of the muffler so I'll have to get a new one, just scares me with those long bolts tecumseh used on the 10hp engine, those LOVE to snap and really not wanting to drill it out of the block until I am SURE there will be no more snow, Happened on my wood chipper and I still have to get that one out, fortunately the one bolt still in it is holding and no exhaust leak so may leave the wood chipper be for a while since it doesn't get tons of use anyway. The only other issue I have found is it seems someone removed all the kill switches on this thing, There was no key switch to turn it off but I see that a lot but I figured at least the switch when you put the throttle all the way down would be there.... NOPE WTH, I put it all the way down and I get a nice slow idle... At least I got the carb tuning right LOL so I now have to pull the plug wire to turn it off, Have not gotten into it to see if there is a wire off the coil yet but that will be fixed but need to find the contact points to add for the kill switches, May actually put a switch like the newer ones instead of the plastic key but finding the little plastic piece that holds the wire to contact the throttle has been daunting, nothing on ebay so far that I can find, But anyhow the engine does run well and it throws snow better than I hoped.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Well I know I posted it but wanted to add it to the original thread and this is the auto turn installed.


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