# Advice Needed for New Snowblower (person not machine)



## Maggie_in_WI (Dec 17, 2011)

Hi all,

I am brand new to snow-blowing and need advice on how to do it properly since I have a super old machine (left behind by the ex cause it didn't work) that just got returned from the shop that I've never used before. It's a Craftsman Eager 1, model 536-90560, 9HP, 24" gas. 

What's the least amount of snow I should be using this on and then what's the most I should try snow-blowing? 

Are there certain types of snow I shouldn't try blowing such as really wet, heavy snow? 

What kind of gas should I be using?

Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated since I can't find the owner's manual anywhere online and this is all new to me.

Thank you in advance for all your help 
Maggie


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

9HP and 24" sounds like a monster. That should go through anything. I wouldn't worry much about what to use it for and what not to use it for. With very little snow it won't throw far so you have to go faster. If I were you I would be using it on the first inch you get. It might seem ridiculous, but it could be good practice.

That machine sounds like it would be fine for anything between 1 inch and 3 feet. The light snows might be quicker to shovel by hand, but where is the fun in that? The heavier and deeper it is the slower you have to go. If you find yourself pushing the snow instead of blowing the snow you are going to fast.

Any gas should be fine. Most people will probably tell you to make sure it is fresh gas that you got less than a couple weeks ago and mix stabilizer with it. I have never bothered with the stuff though.

The skid plates on the sides of the front are adjustable. If you have a gravel driveway you should set them to keep the front high off the ground. If you have a relatively smooth and flat driveway you should set them pretty low so you can scrape the most amount of snow possible off the driveway.

The front augers should be bolted on with a single shear bolt in the middle. It should have special bolts designed to break if anything jams the front end. If it has normal bolts they won't break as easily and you can damage the front gearbox. Also, some older models have the augers rusted to the shaft so the shear bolts don't work at all. You should either remove the bolts and make sure the augers free spin on the shaft, or just try wiggling them as they shouldn't be that tight anyway and you should feel them move. If you have a grease gun it won't hurt to grease anything you can find, though the shop should have done that if they did any kind of work on it.

While it is still somewhat warm and not snowing you should go out and start it and run it around a bit. It is better to find any problems now than when you have 2 feet of snow in the driveway. Make sure it starts, make sure the augers spin, make sure all the forward and reverse gears work and while it is in forward try to hold it back. It should spin the tires and be hard to hang on to. If it barely moves you have a problem in the drive system and it needs adjusting.

Things to remember:
* Clear the driveway before it snows. This would mean picking up sticks, bricks, rocks, newspapers and anything else that can get sucked up and damage it or get stuck in it. Be aware of any problem spots in the driveway such as holes or big bumps.

* Snowblowers throw better when throwing to the right. (Same direction the fan turns inside the barrel under the chute).

* No matter how big the engine is, the wind will always be stronger. Try to blow in the same direction as the wind whenever possible. If it is real windy and blowing back at you keep the top of the chute pointed as low as possible.

* If it gets jammed up and you need to clear the snow out of the chute, never stick your hands down the chute. It might seem like common sense, but it is real easy to forget when you are in a hurry. If the augers are spinning you can definitely get hurt, if the engine is running the belt might decide to catch for no reason at all, and if it is jammed with ice or something it could have a spring affect and spring back when the jam is freed even with the engine off. A broom handle or a large stick makes a good clean out tool.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

Very good advice from Shryp there... Not much i can add but i will comment on a few things!

Find a local snowblower dealer, maybe even the shop you had it serviced at, and get a chute cleanout tool, one with a mounting clip that goes on the blower is best, i added them to both of my machines and its going to be nice always having them with instead of walking back to the house for something to clean it out when it plugs up at the end of the driveway. This usually only becomes a problem with wet heavy snow that tends to stick and buildup in the chute. If you can find a local Ariens dealer they make a nice one with a brush on the handle end, makes cleanup after your done a snap.

Thats another good point.... Unless your storing it in a heated garage, clean as much snow off as you can when your done. I like to push down on the handles to raise the front and then let it drop a few times while out on the street, this will shake a lot of stuck snow off, the brush will finish off the rest. Then bring it back to the garage/shed and let it idle for 5-10 minutes while you finish brushing it off etc, this gives the motor time to dry off, cook out any water from melted snow that got in the starter, etc. I generally park it in the shed and let it idle ten minutes as i don't have a heated location to store them in. Beware of exhaust buildup if running it in a tightly enclosed garage/shed of course, i just leave the doors open until i am done.

Then after you shut it off, check the oil, top off the fuel, and your ready for the next big blow! As for fuel stabilizers... If your using it enough its not a problem, but i would suggest just for the sake of maintenance that you treat the fuel. A bottle of the red Stabil fuel treatment/stabilizer is a LOT cheaper than a carb rebuild or getting stuck with an engine that won't run. Treat the fuel every time you fill up your gas jug and your good. If it has fresh fuel in it now treat the fuel directly in the tank, then run it for 10-15 minutes to circulate the treated fuel through the carburetor. When Spring comes around just keep it treated and leave it! I know some will say drain the carb, bull... I have stored mine wet with Stabil treated fuel for about 15 years now and never had a fuel system problem. The treatment makes all the difference!

And though your neighbors might look at you like your crazy... Roll it out once a month during the off season, or even in the winter if there isn't enough snow to use it, and run it for 10-15 minutes. This just keeps everything in order. I exercise all my small engines monthly when i exercise my generator. Just makes sure i keep on top of maintenance for all of them.

I assume they changed the oil? The oil should be changed regularly. There is a lot of arguments here. Hours used, time spent in the engine, etc. What i like to do is change the oil every three uses, but thats just what works for me, as each use is roughly two hours, so three uses is six hours of usage, my manual shows every five hours of use. Use a good quality 5w-30 oil is the best i can suggest without seeing a manual for yours, some may suggest 5w-20 but its a safe bet to use 5w-30. Don't overlook the fuel filter also!! If they haven't changed it and its old, time for a change, its not hard to do!

Spend a little money and become self sufficient on the maintenance. Its not hard to change the oil, a small cheap grease gun from your local Wal-Mart or auto parts store to keep everything lubricated, its a lot cheaper than paying a shop to do it every time and you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself! 

Perhaps someone will chime in on a users manual for it, i will do some google searching also. If you have a Sears store nearby i would go to them with the model number as well and ask about a user manual, couldn't hurt! Then you have all the info you need for maintenance.

And as Shryp said... Practice! Having confidence in your ability to run the machine is important. Driving it up and down the driving to get used to the controls and not being afraid of making a small mistake or two will go a long way.

And above all else if you have questions.. We are here to help!!!


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Snow blowing*

Maggie

Listen to what Shryp & KbOnly have said, you're getting good advise. I'm going to throw some additions in here based on the machine. I have a 536.90515 I rebuilt this last summer, which I'm guessing is just a smaller model similar to yours. Here's a picture of the machine I'm referring to so you can confirm it applies to yours or not:








I realize that is smaller than yours but I suspect there are similarities between the two of them.

There are two things you have to be very aware of. Notice there are not any controls on the handlebar to depress to engage the drive or auger, only the shifter for gear selection. They normally function like a deadman on most snowblowers, this one does not have them, that's what you need to know and be aware of.

The auger control is the lever on the right side of the motor. Turn that handle and the auger is engaged and stays engaged till you turn the handle the opposite direction.

The gears is via the shifter, again nothing to hold down. Put the shifter in line with the gear you want and push the shifter forward (or backwards for reverse) and the machine will go. It will not stop till you move the shifter back to where it was before engaging the drive (neutral - where you move the shifter from side to side). If you let go of the handlebars with the drive engaged, it will continue going without you holding on. Though it shouldn't happen, if the adjustment of the shifter ever gets messed up, you could have a machine that won't stop moving even if you disengage the drive. The adjustment is on the handlebar side of the shifter mechanism. If that ever happens, try moving the shifter to the left so it's not in any gear range if you can or just shut the throttle off as quick as you can and keep out of it's way till the engine stops.

Those are the two things you have to be very aware of. I expect it will chew up and spit out virtually anything you put it up against, just do it safely.

PS I do have a pdf manual for the 536.90515 machine I have. If you'd like a copy, get me an email. It's not the same but I'm sure there's probably alot of similar parts between the two machines.


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Hi Maaggie, you've already gotten some great advise, so all I'll add is welcome to the group. You ever have any other questions, don't hesitate to stop by and ask the members here. Be sure to let us know how things go for you with your snowblower.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

welcome to the club. just told another new member to grease the auger a certain way. too many people/shops may grease them but they dont pull the shear pins out. pull the pins then grease it and spin them around a few times so you know its good then put the pins back in. a broken gear case is very expensive. couldnt hurt to keep a set of shear pins around either. you dont need to have to try to go out in the middle of clearing the driveway to get them. if you can get out.

also, as others did already i will add to it, dont put your hands near anything moving. especially your machine that is like some of mine. they have no safety features and with no hands on the machine everything is still moving. 

just reinforcing it since its fresh in my mind, just bought an ariens where the entire front end was cut apart by the fire dept. to get someones hand out.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

kb0nly said:


> What i like to do is change the oil every three uses, but thats just what works for me, as each use is roughly two hours, so three uses is six hours of usage, my manual shows every five hours of use.


Are you sure your manual did not state to change the oil after the first 5 hours of use and something like every 25 hours after that?
I change the oil on all of my OPE at the end of each season of use, but only once a year as i only do my own residential property and not commercial use.

Carl


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

CarlB said:


> Are you sure your manual did not state to change the oil after the first 5 hours of use and something like every 25 hours after that?
> I change the oil on all of my OPE at the end of each season of use, but only once a year as i only do my own residential property and not commercial use.
> 
> Carl


oh yeah..that has to be 5 hours for the *first* oil change when the machine is brand new..thats only for the break-in procedure..then every 25 hours after that.

99% of snowblower owners probably change the oil once a year, regardless of how many (or how few) hours it was used that season..most will be used *less* than 25 hours a season, but its best to change the oil once a year anyway, just to be safe..and "once a year" is much easier to remember than trying to keep track of hours..

(unless you have a snow clearing business and do multiple driveways every time it snows! then you probably have to do several oil changes a winter..but for the average homeowner with one snowblower and one driveway, once a year is fine..)

but an oil change every 3 uses? no, thats VERY unnecessary..its a huge waste of time, money and oil..

Scot


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

sscotsman said:


> 99% of snowblower owners probably change the oil once a year, regardless of how many (or how few) hours it was used that season..


I call bull on that math. I am willing to bet 99% never even check the oil


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## KimbaWLion (Nov 30, 2011)

Just my 2 cents... With all the latest Synthetics which run in diesals and industrial equipment. I would only see a need to change the oil once a year. The Newer N rated Oil is suppose to be good for 7k -10K miles in a car so I would think it would be MORE than good enough for a FULL season of use no matter how hard a blower may work. I mean it NEVER congeals among other things and if worried add a bit of Lucas oil product it actually CLINGS to in the motor parts so there is NEVER a cold dry start.
My Honda Odyssy 2002 had OVER 227K on it and ran like a bear!
TOO bad that deer took it out last week... JUST what I need to do go buy a car now... Oh I ALWAYS check my oil, the easy and WISE thing to do...


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

It does say after the first five hours, but it also mentioned for heavy use every five hours, moderate use every 10-15, and light use 20-25.

I use mine heavily when its being used. And after three uses about six hours of hard running, that oil can be pretty dark. 

It costs about $5 to change the oil. If i change four times a season thats only $20. To me the extra oil changes are worth it to keep the engine well maintained. Some may consider it a waste, but $20 in oil is cheaper then a new engine.

I would NEVER go a whole season without changing the oil. I know people that change the oil in the fall on their snowblower, run it all winter, and let that corrosive mix sit in there all summer. Bad!!! I change the oil regularly. 

I also still hold to changing the oil in my vehicles every 3,000 miles. I know some go longer on that as well. I know guys that put in synthetic and go 6-7k before changing the oil, bad idea...


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## KimbaWLion (Nov 30, 2011)

Well I go easily 7k between changes with Syn. Oil. I also use an upgraded oil filter. My Honda ran as strong as anything. What killed my van was a Deer, or a few, 7-8 ran across the road at once! I was VERY lucky to make it... 

I am sure there pros and cons to each!


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## Maggie_in_WI (Dec 17, 2011)

*Thank you!!*

Thank you so much for all the replies and info!! You guys are great and have given me pretty much all the confidence I need. I can't wait for the snow to fall now 

I'm going to try doing as much of the maintenance as I can. I like doing those kinds of things but I may have more questions to ask 

Thanks again. You guys are the best!!

Maggie


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Preseason workout*

Maggie

While things are still fresh in your mind, take your machine out someplace with plenty of space and actually try it out driving it, engaging and disengaging the auger, etc.

Generally get comfortable with it, note any issues etc and consider a couple of things. You could rig up a kill switch to the handlebars somewhere so if you got into any problems you could kill it quickly.

It's not the best example but hopefully it will work here. 








Look right below the throttle (bottom of the picture, right above the motor mount), there's a tab with a screw and a wire hooked up to it. That's part of the usual key switch on your machine. If you add a a wire to that (make sure it doesn't ground on the bracket), bring that up the handlebars to a switch then the other side of the switch attach to the handlebars. Long as that extra switch is off, the motor can work normally. Turn that switch on and it kills the ignition, effectively killing the machine immediately.

You need to use a switch and connections that are waterproof otherwise they could cause you issues it they get wet.

Not as good as a true deadman but definitely better than nothing, assuming your machine is similar to the one I showed.


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## Buford (Nov 11, 2011)

I wanted to mention that this topic is helpful advice for many other who might not be newbies.

I never got lessons in this, I did note that going up and down the driveway did work better than going left to right. 

I did not know that SBs throw farther to the right than the left.

Lots of useful stuff here and nowhere else.

Maybe this thread rates sticky status stat?


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