# Craftsman Snowblower



## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

I have a 1993 craftsman 5 HP, 22" Dual Stage snow blower cycle. Model is 536.886540. I could use some assistance.
I can get it started and it will stay running until I try to throw snow. As soon as it starts throwing snow, it seems to bog down and stops running. What is the problem? What can I do to get the snowblower to throw snow and not bog down and stall? Can I fix this issue and how and what are your suggestions? Should I take it to a small engine shop for repair or buy a new one? What would this cost?

This is a great forum and I am looking forward to all of your great comments. Thanks in advance.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

If it runs fairly decent:
9 out of 10 times any 5hp Tec I've seen with your symptoms, the exhaust valve has no clearance. Rare occasion the head gasket or improperly torqued head bolts (loose) from a previous service.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Thanks for your reply oneboltshort. My feeling from your comment is that it appears my snowblower is about over and that a new one may have to be purchased, Do you agree? Or is there some other action or part replacement that I can attempt to also correct the problem I am having? Would it be worth my while to take the snowblower to a small engine guy for repairs? Cost? Thanks again


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I'd first replace the carburetor with an adjustable for less than $15.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

If you like your snowblower and it's in good shape, would you spend $130 and put a new engine on that's bigger, more powerful, and starts on the first pull?

Harbor Freight Predator $130


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

I wouldn't say it's done just from your description, no I've easily fixed dozens of L-heads with a simple valve job. i was simply suggesting what I see frequently with the Tec 5hp. I would run a compression/leakdown , put a feeler gauge on the valves, but I have all the tools and extra gaskets to do it. Shops (parts changers around me)? Not around here. They are all 4weeks out regardless of season and seem to only cater to contractors.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Have you owned this since it was new?

Has it run fine up til now?

Did you ever mess with the governor?

It started doing this last year before you stored it for the spring/summer?


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

I agree with others here, I don't think it is done. If the machine is in decent shape (no rust) I would try to keep it. It may not be a bad idea to try and clean out the carb, or even buy a new one. (Cleaning out the old one would be preferable). Look around online for how-to videos.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

zenny said:


> I have a 1993 craftsman 5 HP, 22" Dual Stage snow blower cycle. Model is 536.886540. I could use some assistance.
> I can get it started and it will stay running until I try to throw snow. As soon as it starts throwing snow, it seems to bog down and stops running. What is the problem? What can I do to get the snowblower to throw snow and not bog down and stall? Can I fix this issue and how and what are your suggestions? Should I take it to a small engine shop for repair or buy a new one? What would this cost?
> 
> This is a great forum and I am looking forward to all of your great comments. Thanks in advance.


I have a 22" 5 horse Craftsman from around 2000.
Mine was doing that, I bought a cheap Chinese carb off Amazon $13 bucks.
Fixed it, my old original carb needed cleaning, I have it as a spare now.
The cheap carb has held up for 3 years now.

If you go to blow and it keeps running but won't blow it is the belt. 
Have you ever replaced the belt? Checked the adjustment? If not I would.
Check the impeller bearing for play along with the bucket bearings.
The bucket bearings are only a piece of plastic type bushing, they do wear.
Do you have your manual? You will find the part number in it.
A lot of machines use the one I use.

The first picture in this thread shows one.








My Craftsman's gear box/ impeller/ bucket &amp...


My serial number is in my signature too, though you have to click on it to see it. Craftsman #536886141(Around 2000?) 5 Horse, Tecumseh HSSK50-67392S 22" Dual Stage I noticed that I had too much play with my impeller. Some shiny marks were in side the housing so it must have scrapped at one...




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Hi all and thanks so much for your comments and suggestions. First to Big Ed...my blower is running when I contact the snow to blow. At that time is when the blower bogs down and stops running .It will not continue to blow snow and stay running. The belts seem to be in good shape. 

To Oneacer: I inherited the blower in 2015...worked good for a few years and then began to have running and blowing issues...I have messed with the governor. 

Please note: I do have a manual and have followed the procedures to adjust the carburetor. I have noticed that when I place the choke Control Knob to the full position to start it, the blower starts up and continues to run. And when it warms up and I place the Choke Control knob to off, the blower stops running. It appears the blower runs better when the choke is on. But again, when I go to throw snow, it bogs down, does not throw snow, and stops running. It appears many of you fine folks suggest a carburetor issue. I will pursue that direction. With that said, could there be another issue that is preventing the blower from blowing snow, bogging down, and then stop running?

Thanks again for all of your great comments. If you have others please send them to me. You are all helping me to decide whether to work on the blower to see if I can fix it or to buy a new one and avoid getting nickeled and dimed to death to try to solve the problem on my own.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Definitely a carb issue. Buy a new carburetor or clean this one but that does not always work. To clean start with carb spray, doesn't work move to removing the side Welch plug, that's where the problem is, doesn't work soak in Berrymans Chem-Dip Carburetor and Parts Cleaner, doesn't work use an ultrasonic cleaner.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

zenny said:


> Hi all and thanks so much for your comments and suggestions. First to Big Ed...my blower is running when I contact the snow to blow. At that time is when the blower bogs down and stops running .It will not continue to blow snow and stay running. The belts seem to be in good shape.
> 
> To Oneacer: I inherited the blower in 2015...worked good for a few years and then began to have running and blowing issues...I have messed with the governor.
> 
> ...


I would suspect the carb needs a good cleaning. 
I looked at what I think is your manual online. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/9dwfmnla4f-000247/craftsman-536886540-gas-snowblower-parts

Page 30 part #21 takes a 9517Ma bearing for the bucket, same as mine. They do wear. They want 14 bucks on amazon, look elsewhere I got mine for around 4 bucks.

Carbs on Amazon, fairly cheap. The one I bought will be going on it's 4th season. Your carb is # 632107A. According to the manual I listed.


Amazon.com : 632107a carburetor for tecumseh



Do yourself a favor too, take the wheels off and grease the axles.
Drop the cover pan underneath and check the friction wheel and plate, grease the chain while your in there.
Pictures in the other post link I posted before.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just get a 12.00 carb .......


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

If you messed with the governor, you may want to go online and reset it back to factory specs.


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## snow blows (Jan 9, 2016)

I have an old Craftsman 5/24 with the Harbor Freight Predator 212. It is a real sweet combo you would love it. They go on sale for $99.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I have not seen them anymore for 99.00.

Harbor Freight has changed there business model and the way they now do business awhile back.I

Even at 150, it's a good deal.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Hello all and again thanks for your comments. I am thinking of cleaning and or purchasing a carb. Thanks for the Amazon reference. My one concern is understanding why a new carburetor would enable the blower to not bog down when encountering and blowing snow and then not stop running. Would I still have the issue with the Choke Control knob. My understanding is that once the blower stars and warms up I am to turn the Choke Control knob to OFF and the engine will continue to run and blow.. Please, your thoughts on this. I am not too comfortable with purchasing a new engine to revive such an old blower. 

I did take the wheels off and grease the axles as well as dropping the cover pan underneath and checked the friction wheel and plate and greased the chain.

Additional comments are appreciated so as to get my blower going and blowing without spending a lot of money on such an old blower or purchasing a new one. 

Thanks again you all are just so kind to assist.


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

I think the idea is that the carb is not 100% clean, and when a load is applied, the engine cannot operate with the load on it. I had a similar issue with my leaf vacuum. If I left the choke closed it would idle, but if I opened it, it would stall out. 

Most likely a new carb would solve the issue, as long as you buy a decent one, or are able to rebuild / clean out the old one. It is not very difficult to do, but can be intimidating for a novice mechanic. Maybe call around to a few small engine repair shops and see what they would offer as far as service and price.


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## nitehawk55 (Sep 9, 2021)

Your carb has basically 3 circuits , choke , idle and high speed . The high speed is what feeds the fuel to the engine as it begins to go under load . If there is any restriction in that circuit it will run until the governor starts demanding more power (load) and that partial blockage will kill the engine . I've seen engines that will rev up OK but as soon as you put them to work there just isn't enough fuel.
I think this is your issue.


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Thanks carguy and nitehawk55...I get it...thanks again for your knowledge pointing to my issue with my blower. I believe I will do my best to remove the carb, inspect it, clean it, reinstall and ensure that my attempt fixes the problem I am having. It's like what do I have to lose except time and about $20 to $30 if I have to purchase a new carb. If it works I save about $400-$600 for a new blower.

You all have been so kind to take your time to assist me...I appreciate it. I will eventually let you know the results of my efforts as it will take me some time to do the repair OR purchase and install, if necessary.

Of course, I am still open to your comments and thoughts moving forward.

Sincerely.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Make sure the fuel line is good, sometimes it is collapsed on the inside and look fine on the outside.
Cheap enough to throw a new one on.


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## Spritey64 (Jun 27, 2021)

Hi Zenny (& All):

I have this exact snowblower and had the same issue. Short story - in process of changing engine out with a Predator 212cc. Excited for this season.

I did swap out the carb with a cheapy from AMZN. It helped, but certainly didn't solve the issue. I also tinkered with governor (using a tach) to verify all good, jut running a bit 'hot' on the RPM's. Great advice on the fuel line (which I did not think of).

After a through test or two last season - I have up and made plans to do the 212cc swap. That part went reasonably smooth. The difficulty is that you are moving from a dual shaft (each spinning opposite directions to a single shaft spinning counter-clockwise. You'll need to change out pullies & belts.

Pulley: 2.0" (3/4" shaft) for Drive (AK20X3/4) single
Pulley: 3.05" ("""""""""") for Auger (2AK30X3/4) DUAL PULLEY
29" Belt: For Drive (3L290) (3/8th in. or 3L x 29")
35" Belt: For Auger (3L350) (3/8th or 3L x 35"
NGK BR6ES "Hot" Plug

On Auger Pulley - Stock was 2.7" and I sized up to add some power to 3.05". That all was a few hours (< 2). Not bad. The issue I am incredibly (& still fighting with) is the flip of the transmission bar underneath that engages the drive flywheel. As the drive is now spinning opposite from stock, so the bar needs to flip also to match up with the gear selector (5/4/3/2/1/n/R1 / R2). I am having a bear of a time on the geometry & learning to weld. My self-induced problems. It'll be fixed by the first snow fall. In hindsight - I think I should have left it as a single forward gear (and multiple reverse gears) and see how it did in the snow. Net cost ~ $225. Worth a gamble vs. buying a new one (that's with the new $150 price on these engines).

Somehow -- going from what use to be 5.0 HP (some horsey's have escaped) to actual 6.5 HP + hot plug. + upsized auger pulley should yield some great results. Next phase if I think I need it (next year) is to mess with jet sizes & grab a Honda air box from ebay. 

Somehow I think I'll be happy as it is now (modest upgrades).

Good luck. It's was a easy project short of what I mentioned above.

George


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## zenny (Nov 1, 2019)

Thanks Spritey64 for the detailed info...appreciate it. For now I believe I will purchase a new carb, see what happens, and then consider my options if necessary. 

Thanks again everyone for your assistance.

Sincerely


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