# ~1961 Ariens 10ML restoration



## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

3 months ago, I bought this "restored" Ariens snowblower that was missing an engine from a craigslist seller who was in the process of moving(the price was right and I happened to have a spare Tecumseh H70 engine). I finally got around to mounting the engine on the chassis this weekend and I have some questions:










1) What would you use for a belt guide? I had something like this in mind:

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSi_tbFZsrqPax7blXIlMuf2hwlkvQe9gfdix5iwAEbn37PW7LvsQ

(maybe cut it into two individual rods)?

2) The engine has a 1" shaft so I'm in search of a pulley with a 1" ID bore. I'm seeing a 2.7" pulley and a 3" pulley available. Either one looks "close enough." Does anyone know what the stock pulley size is?

The engine shaft is about 3/4" too long and hitting the belt cover(the belt cover is metal). I'll either need to cut the engine shaft or cut the belt cover(I'm leaning towards cutting the shaft). More pictures to come as I make progress!


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

There is a guy in reading ma that would have the fact guides, He always post on the boston craigs list. Also may be jackmels on this site,may part with a pair. They may have your pulley as well.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I'm sure I have a pair of Belt guides for you. The original pulley is 3/4 crank and the inside diameter where the belt rides is 1 3/4". I might have something for a 1" Crank that will work, or you can get something close from NAPA. As far as your additional Crank Length, Cut it down to size with a whizzer wheel.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Yes, I have bought from the North Reading guy before and I have reached out to him through ebay for the belt guides. A new pulley is on its way from another ebay vendor as well.

I'll keep you guys posted as I make progress.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

a new 2.5" OD pulley with 1" bore has been installed after cutting off about an inch form the crank:


















waiting for the belt guides to arrive in the mail.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

belt guides have arrived:










the previous owner's chute control relocation. it works well enough:










H70-130065










The engine had been sitting with gas in it since last August but it started right up after I cleaned out the carb bowl.


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## Pythons37 (Nov 9, 2012)

That's pretty cool. It didn't take much to turn this into a great machine.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

You get a chance to try it out today!!!


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Yes, will be trying it out later this afternoon(already did the driveway with one of my other snowblower). Here are some other pics(got tired of taking pictures of it in the cramped garage space):



















For the time being, this is the only snowblower in my fleet that doesn't have an electric starter but it is also the one that I can reliably start with the recoil starter.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

looks good so what else is there to do to it


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

i just tested it out at my proving ground(aka back yard) - there was roughly a foot of wet snow(the kind that is perfect for snowballs). 

it doesn't throw snow very far and the solid rubber tires had a rough time gaining traction, but it the volume of snow it can handle is pretty impressive.

an impeller kit and an upgrade of the wheels/tires combo will probably be next on the list.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I had a chance to test it out at my proving ground(aka the back yard) today:

the conditions: roughly a foot of wet snow(the kind that's perfect for snowballs and heart attacks)

as expected, it does not throw snow very far but the engine had no problems moving the volume of snow(i was feeding it the full 24" width of fresh snow into the scoop), it did not bog down at all and the engine ran well.

the solid rubber tires also left much to be desired as far as traction is concerned.

i think i will be installing an impeller kit at some point, as well as upgrade the wheels/tires combo(it is possible to change to the standard 3-lug Ariens wheels with the hubs from a 10ML60d, from what I am reading)


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Belt Keepers*

Just noticed the reference to belt keepers. If you're like me and usually want something a little special, here's a thread on how I make them:
Belt Keepers - making them from scratch

They aren't hard to do as long as you're willing to do a little work.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Nice job on the engine swap, looks great. Nothing like those giant augers sticking halfway out! makes it look like something from horror movie. I think I may pull the side shields back off mine...
btw- I have a completed axle set for the 3 lug wheels with a differential, bearing carriers, etc, if you are interested let me know (just pay for the shipping). It is just sitting in my shed, I got them for a friend who ended up sticking with his ratchet wheel set up. All you would need is a set of wheels and tires that are a dime a dozen on ebay. I did the swap on my machine a year ago, not bad to do at all.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Ray 1962 10ML60 said:


> Nice job on the engine swap, looks great. Nothing like those giant augers sticking halfway out! makes it look like something from horror movie. I think I may pull the side shields back off mine...
> btw- I have a completed axle set for the 3 lug wheels with a differential, bearing carriers, etc, if you are interested let me know (just pay for the shipping). It is just sitting in my shed, I got them for a friend who ended up sticking with his ratchet wheel set up. All you would need is a set of wheels and tires that are a dime a dozen on ebay. I did the swap on my machine a year ago, not bad to do at all.


as the grass is always greener on the other side, i like the look of side shields 

PM sent for the 3 lug axle setup offer!


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Decided to install an electric starter on this engine(the one that originally came with the engine when I bought it) and re-routed the chute crank back to the original location.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Extra points for originality! Looks good! I took a wooden file handle and drilled out the center to make turning the crank a little easier. They started putting wooden handles on later models. I can put up a pix if you want to try it..works good esp with gloves on.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Looks great db


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Ray, great idea using a wooden file handle for the chute crank. Found one made out of birch on ebay for $3.90 with shipping. Can't beat that price at all. 5 minutes with my cordless drill to make it fit:


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Sweet! Looks good, and has a purpose...glad it worked for you too! If it slips off on you, just shorten it up and let the bar come thru, then put a little axle cap on the end...I'll put up a pix...


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

like this:


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Handle*

I like the crank handle. On the next one you do (assuming you're into it now), maybe do a little crazy, get some acrylic and turn one and it will definitely be a 'one of a kind'. They can turn them for pens so why not crank handles?


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Does anybody know if a 1963-1964 10M(half-teardrop shape bucket) can replace a 1960-1962 half circle 10M bucket?


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Yes, they can. All should line up fine. My buddy has 64 and it mounts up identically. Only diff is the shape of the bucket.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Thanks, Ray.

I just picked up a 63-64 complete front bucket with gearbox/rakes/optional side plates tonight. I guess I'm partial to the teardrop shape.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Very nice find! I like the teardrop too, been looking for one for a while. Little extra height is nice. And you got the sides too!! Enjoy.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

Nice find! Are you planning to repaint the bucket?


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Honestly, probably not anytime soon. I will reuse the chute from my existing bucket since it's in much better shape. 

I've also noticed that the engine mounting studs on my 10ml is significantly longer than my other Ariens models, which makes it a good test mule for a *Predator* engine swap. All in good time, I suppose.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

I purchased a 212cc (6.5HP) Predator from Harbor Freight today. Hopefully, I won't have to use it on my 10ML's. But @$98, it's good to have one just in case. Or I might experiment with another Ariens one day.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

WestminsterFJR said:


> I purchased a 212cc (6.5HP) Predator from Harbor Freight today. Hopefully, I won't have to use it on my 10ML's. But @$98, it's good to have one just in case. Or I might experiment with another Ariens one day.


Did you open the box to see if your Predator has the hemi head or the regular head? I paid the $7 to have my Predator shipped and it was supposed to arrive this weekend but the winter weather conditions across the country are delaying my shipment.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

How can I tell?


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

The regular head has a shiny valve over that says OHV, like how it's pictured when you look up "69730" on harborfreight.com - the engines have a "R210" designation.

The hemi head has a cast aluminum valve cover - supposedly has larger valves with revised angles for better breathing and I have seen some gokart foum posts say that the hemi head has 1 more hp out of the box. The packaging of Predator engines should say 60363 as the model number(so I guess you don't have to open it to know hemi or non-hemi). It has a 210FA designation, almost makes me want to go to a Harbor Freight in person to see which version the local store has.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

You got me wondering now . It looks to be a Hemi, Part number 60363. Does this mean it's actually outputting 7.5 HP @3600?

Here's some pics.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Congrats on the Hemi acquisition. I called Fedex today and the new ETA for my Predator is this coming Tuesday, I wonder which version is going to show up. The new bucket is on along with a newer set of skids:


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

I like that teardrop bucket, looks sharp, and now you have some more spare parts!


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

Looks awesome! bearings and seals all checked out? I'm in the mist of gearbox surgery currently


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

db130 said:


> The regular head has a shiny valve over that says OHV, like how it's pictured when you look up "69730" on harborfreight.com - the engines have a "R210" designation.
> 
> The hemi head has a cast aluminum valve cover - supposedly has larger valves with revised angles for better breathing and I have seen some gokart foum posts say that the hemi head has 1 more hp out of the box. The packaging of Predator engines should say 60363 as the model number(so I guess you don't have to open it to know hemi or non-hemi). It has a 210FA designation, almost makes me want to go to a Harbor Freight in person to see which version the local store has.


Some people have bought Hemi heads to put on their regular Predator 212cc. The Hemi head means Hemispherical combustion chamber it will put out maybe 1 hp more than the stock head if that. The old Flat head engines had the valves in the block and on the side of the piston and they were not able to breath anywhere as effectively as these new engines can. It is interesting how many revisions of the Predator engines have occurred. Right now many cart racers are building them up and running them against real Honda engines and the Predator engines are keeping up or even beating the Honda engines. They have the same basic design and cast iron cylinder liner and ball bearing crank support that the Honda Commercial engines do. I find that they are excellent runners and start real easily usually in 1 to 2 pulls of the recoil.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

As far as i can tell, yes. No nasty noises or leaks(but I didn't let it run very long).

Next on the list is finding a suitable belt for the 3.25" pulley for the Tecumseh 7hp that's already installed on this snowblower, then finding a suitable belt for the 3" pulley that I intend to use with the Predator.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

Good info on the Predator. I hope I get to try it out soon on an Ariens in need of a new powerplant.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

It would be an interesting experiment to keep the same pulley and compare the performance of both motors. Same size shaft 3/4" on both motors?


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

The H70 that's on my 10ML now has a 1" crank and the Predator will have a 3/4" crank. 

Right now, the plan is to move the H70 to a 6hp Ariens 100000 series(because the 6hp engine appears to be tired) then drop the Predator in on the 10ML.

*Edit - Received the Predator today and it's the non-hemi head Predator... 
**Edit 01/16/14: I stopped at nearby store on my way home tonight after calling ahead to verify that they had the hemi version in stock. I picked it up and will be returning the non-hemi version that's still in the box.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

When I purchased the Predator in store. they informed me that there would be a 20% restocking fee if I were to return the item, even if it was unopened. Does the restocking fee apply if you return a mail-ordered item?


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

WestminsterFJR said:


> When I purchased the Predator in store. they informed me that there would be a 20% restocking fee if I were to return the item, even if it was unopened. Does the restocking fee apply if you return a mail-ordered item?


Here's their return policy:

A specific list of items for which the 20% re-stocking fee is applicable is subject to change at any time. For items subject to the re-stocking fee, the fee will be waived if any of the below conditions are met:

The item is unopened and in new condition;
The item is exchanged for an upgrade in the same category;
The item is being returned/exchanged under an Extended Service Plan;
The item is being returned/exchanged due to a manufacturer defect;
Items that use flammable liquids or gases, or contain hazardous materials cannot be returned through the mail, due to safety hazards; even if the item was drained of these materials.

Since my engine was clearly still unopened, they gave me no grief about returning it. In addition, the guy who sold me the Hemi the previous night was the same guy who processed my return. I think the store that you went to needs to re-educate themselves of their own corporate return policy.

I unboxed the Hemi Predator, removed the air filter, and installed a larger jet(.032) versus the stock .028. 

I should also mention that Hemi Predator comes up on their website by the item number 60363 as of this week, but the engine in the pictures is different than the actual Hemi that you find at the stores.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

So I had been joking with a friend of mine that my thread was the only restoration thread where the snowblower gets uglier, and he replied that maybe the new engine would spruce up the appearance. I think he was right:










Since there are multiple Predator+Ariens threads online, I won't duplicate what others have already posted. I'll post some pics of what may be Predator+10ML specific issues. First, the oil plug on the chute crank side had to be trimmed to clear the chute crank. I also had to add 2 washers between the chute crank and the snowblower body to get additional clearance. Finally, I decided to cut a slot on the drain plug so i could use a flathead screwdriver to remove it. Ideally in the long run, I'd like to find a metal plug that sits flush with the block that has provisions for an allen wrench, but this will do for now:


















Here's how the drain plug previously looked before I had to trim it, the extruding "S" shape was interfering of the chute crank operation.










Here is the new 3" crank pulley combined with a new A35 aka 4L370 belt, this is a 1/2" wide by 37" long belt:










The engine started for me on the second pull and ran great with the temperature right around the freezing mark, no surging.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

db130 said:


> Here's their return policy:
> 
> A specific list of items for which the 20% re-stocking fee is applicable is subject to change at any time. For items subject to the re-stocking fee, the fee will be waived if any of the below conditions are met:
> 
> ...



Thanks for the clarification, I feel better now. I thought it sounded too strict when the cashier summarized the policy to me. I even specifically asked him to repeat the bit about the unopened box policy.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

Awesome job, sharp looking setup! Did the mounting holes lined up, or did you have to introduce new holes? What was the stock pulley diameter? Did you try it out in today's wet snow?


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

The mounting holes definitely lined up. Even the threaded holes for the belt guides are the same as a Tecumseh so you can reuse the existing bolts for the belt guides. The swap took about 90 mins and I was taking my time with everything.

I was using a 2.5" pulley with 7hp Tecumseh. I'm also very eager to swap the 7hp Tecumseh to my 6hp 10000 series and try it with my 3.25" pulley.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

db, it looks great! Fantastic job on the swap. Sometimes you can find enjoyment in the little modifications and adjustments you have to make to get it to going right. Makes it your own and one of a kind! Great job keeping the 53 yr old machine churning...


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Ray, you were right about having extra parts w/ the acquisition of the new bucket, as I realized today that the auger bearing on the chute crank side of the bucket was totally destroyed. I took the bearing out of the old bucket for the replacement.

I added more pictures on post #44 that shows how close the crank chute comes to the fill plug, and how it can accomodate a 3" pulley.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Tight fit there huh? Looks great. Now that 3" pulley will give you more rpm out of the auger? Seems like something I may have to play with...where did you pick it up from?


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

Some thoughts on the orange crank bracket that is interfering with the oil plug... can you add some washers between the bracket and the tractor body to move it a few mm? That may be enough to clear the oil plug.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

The augers as well, I suppose... but the primary purpose is to increase the RPM at the impeller.

I bought it from an ebay vendor named redsheller. Check out auction # 



. He may be willing to discount the shipping charges if you buy multiple units.

Ken, that limited clearance that you see there is *with* two washers per bolt added between the bracket and the tractor body that moved it out maybe 2-3mm. The problem is, you'd need to move it out another 5-6mm to clear the plug and I don't know if the chute crank can be shimmed out that far.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Ouch, the shipping from UK is going to kill you there. I got my pulleys from the Steel V-Belt section here.
Pulleys & Idlers | Lawn Mower Parts | MFG Supply

Also, you have to be careful with those older Ariens. Those ones only had 1 belt so speeding the impeller up also speeds up the wheels. The newer ones are nice because they use 2 different belts so you can speed up the impeller and slow down the wheels as well.

Oops, nevermind. For some reason my google search brough up ebay.uk but now I see they come from PA.

I now see he has another listing with smaller sizes. Always wished I could find some smaller sizes for the larger bores. Will have to remember him.
# 380734626629 for smaller ones
# 380734639711 for larger ones


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

it would be interesting to see how the tq of the predator copes with the larger pulley. I know my 10ML55 (#1) would be overwhelmed.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

WestminsterFJR said:


> it would be interesting to see how the tq of the predator copes with the larger pulley. I know my 10ML55 (#1) would be overwhelmed.


The Predator engines are very strong runners and they should be ok with a slight increase in size in the auger drive top pully. I would shoot for a maximum of no more than 1300 rpms. Many of the old machines impeller/auger drives ran about 1000rpms and often would not throw snow as far as some of the newer machines. Some had good torque (old 10hp engines) and throughfare for blowing snow yet many were no better or even worse than a top of the line snow blowers built today.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

so @3600 rpm x 3" pulley divided by an 9" auger pulley on a 10ML(part # 10239), we're looking at 1200 rpm. 

My region is supposed to get 8-15" of snow overnight, I'm eager to try it out.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

db, it should be a good one tomorrow AM  Can you take a video of it in action?


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I finally got around to testing this morning with about 6-8" of snow including some EOD and it looks like the chute crank side auger doesn't take in as much snow as the other auger, so the output at the chute is much greater on the other side. It did this with the original bucket+gearbox combo too and i've verified that the shear pins are intact. Any thoughts on this?

I will mention though that the Predator started for me on the first pull even though the snowblower is kept outdoors under the deck. I also like the fact that I don't smell like gas afterwards as much as my other Ariens snowblowers with Tecumseh engines.


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

The blower looks great, I have a few questions for you. What gear were you blowing in? How fast was the blower moving? Did you notice any slippage with the jaw clutch turning faster? I guess I always figured a larger pulley would be out of the question with the jaw clutch.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I usually blow in 1st gear unless there's less than 6" on the ground. The "new" 1st gear speed with the 3" pulley doesn't seem that much faster than before with the 2.5" pulley.

I used it a 2nd time this afternoon and it looks like the snow comes out of the chute evenly(more or less) if I feed the full 24" and there's a lot of snow. When there isn't a lot of snow, then I see this:






I've also noticed that if the chute is pointed straight or pointed to the right, then there's almost always full output from the chute.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Looks normal to me. 2 stage blowers like deep snow and work best that way.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Well here's a long overdue update.... After I installed the new bucket, I realized that the solid rubber tires with bald tread made this snowblower relatively unusable, all my other snowblowers have either tire chains/Snow Hogs/X-Tracs/tracks. I parked the snowblower and it sat untouched for almost a year... until today, that is.

Fellow forum member Ray 1962 10ML60 had sent me a really nice differential axle from a 10000 series a while back and I finally decided to go through the upgrade today. Getting the old wheels off the solid axle was an absolute bear which required the use of a handheld torch and judicious hits with the mallet. A set of wheels and tires with tire chains was sourced from snowblower #1 in my signature(#1 was upgraded to X-tracs as a result of this). Anyways... I had just enough time to button things up tonight and didn't get to try it out in the snow, but here are some pictures:


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Hey db, looks great man! I like repower job too, the whole machine looks really good. Gotta keep those old babies going, looks like you have plenty of snow to play with too!


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

Nice upgrade, DB130. And great timing with all this snow we're getting.


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## Duff Daddy (Sep 22, 2014)

Awesome, being new to the 10ml60d world... I like seeing the possibility of changes and upgrades. Good job man


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I added better pictures once I was able to finally use it for about an hour earlier this morning. 

The tire chains make such a huge difference and the Hemi Predator throws as well as any 7hp Tecumseh I've had(..and I've had quite a few).


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## Duff Daddy (Sep 22, 2014)

db130 said:


> The regular head has a shiny valve over that says OHV, like how it's pictured when you look up "69730" on harborfreight.com - the engines have a "R210" designation.
> 
> The hemi head has a cast aluminum valve cover - supposedly has larger valves with revised angles for better breathing and I have seen some gokart foum posts say that the hemi head has 1 more hp out of the box. The packaging of Predator engines should say 60363 as the model number(so I guess you don't have to open it to know hemi or non-hemi). It has a 210FA designation, almost makes me want to go to a Harbor Freight in person to see which version the local store has.


Looking up both numbers only the non hemi come up. The hemi number redirects to the non hemi design. . Help?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Duff Daddy said:


> Looking up both numbers only the non hemi come up. The hemi number redirects to the non hemi design. . Help?


I think the hemi ones were a special run. Maybe they don't have them anymore. Could be they ran out of regular ones and the supplier just shipped those to meet demand.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Call your local Harbor Freight store and see if they have any 63063 in inventory. It was/is a "local store only" item. If you ask nicely enough, they might even check other nearby stores for you.


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## Duff Daddy (Sep 22, 2014)

Thanks guys


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

db It looks great, and good to see that old girl tossing snow.

What bugs me is the black engine. would be really cool to paint over the black to the cream color, kinda make it look vintage. I understand the re powering just saying.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Duff Daddy said:


> Looking up both numbers only the non hemi come up. The hemi number redirects to the non hemi design. . Help?


63063 is back on their website.

there are even some customer reviews of the engine that mention the "hemi" nature of this engine.


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## Duff Daddy (Sep 22, 2014)

I just looked again but nothing. Maybe I just suck.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

I do not have any Hemi Predators but all 3 engines run great. I heard that you needed to buy the Hemi engine in store only. They may have been a limited thing too. I would call around to various Harbor Freight's to see of they happen to have that model. The carting people have probably snapped them all up however.


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## ceng41 (Feb 24, 2013)

Thanks for the picture, i have 1964 10mL60D, having a hard time to raise the chute control bracket, so the gear will hit the spocket. Will file down the oil plug raised "S" portion. That is my last struggle on this restoration


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## VictorWebb (Apr 28, 2016)

Pretty cool...:icon-woo:


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

You should have brought the non Predator to the store that had the hemi and did and even exchange. Now yes your stuck with the 20% restock fee unless you explain to them you wanted then hemi and explain you went and got the hemi and are returning the non hemi, maybe they will waive the 20% but you should have brought it with you and just did an even exchange.


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

You should be able to get a lot more power out of that Predator then what was shown in the video. When you get them home out of the box the idles are set a little low. You can adjust the idle up for more power within the allowable governed power adjustment. I have a non hemi predator on my 1971 32 wide Ariens sno-thro and the 212cc Predator nearly doubled the power over the old Tecumseh H70. My auger and impeller turn twice as fast and the machine is throwing snow 40 feet easy. Boy this is a funny thread about Harbor Freight. Here is a video of mine fired up and running with the predator upgrade.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

In case my Post #43 on page 5 wasn't clear enough, I was able to do an even exchange without a problem. I was not charged a restocking fee.



FearlessFront said:


> You should have brought the non Predator to the store that had the hemi and did and even exchange. Now yes your stuck with the 20% restock fee unless you explain to them you wanted then hemi and explain you went and got the hemi and are returning the non hemi, maybe they will waive the 20% but you should have brought it with you and just did an even exchange.


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