# Annual Maintenance Routine?



## Yard Man (Feb 28, 2015)

Hi, I didn't see a thread like the one that i want to start. I am new so if this is redundant, let me know. I will be buying a used machine soon. I just wanted to know what everyone's maintenance routine is. Do you service yourself? in fall or spring? Etc.. I had a 13 year old yard machine. I am probably going to pick up a 9 year old Ariens that is in very very good condition that was maintained well. I just want to keep it that way.

Again, if this is a redundant thread, let me know and i will search this topic.

Thanks in advance

Yard Man


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

I change the oil and do all of the other maintenance routines in the spring, at the end of the season. I only use synthetic oil (Mobil 1) and I remove the spark plug and squirt some fogging oil in the cylinder, then replace the spark plug with a new one and turn the engine over slowly a few revolutions to coat the cylinder walls with the fogging oil, then stop when I feel resistance at the top of the stroke. This ensures the valves are in the closed position so that no moisture should be able to get into the cylinder. I will also take care of any other needed repairs or adjustments, lube everything up etc. so that the machine is ready for the next season, whenever that comes. I hate working on machinery in the cold so spring is the best time for this, for me. I follow a similar routine for all of my OPE. My Honda generator gets an oil change in the spring and in the fall, even if it was never used. Summer oil in the spring, winter oil in the fall, always synthetic. I consider my generator a piece of emergency equipment that could be called upon to run for days on end, so I want it ready for whatever might come up.


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## Yard Man (Feb 28, 2015)

Blue Hill said:


> I change the oil and do all of the other maintenance routines in the spring, at the end of the season. I only use synthetic oil (Mobil 1) and I remove the spark plug and squirt some fogging oil in the cylinder, then replace the spark plug with a new one and turn the engine over slowly a few revolutions to coat the cylinder walls with the fogging oil, then stop when I feel resistance at the top of the stroke. This ensures the valves are in the closed position so that no moisture should be able to get into the cylinder. I will also take care of any other needed repairs or adjustments, lube everything up etc. so that the machine is ready for the next season, whenever that comes. I hate working on machinery in the cold so spring is the best time for this, for me. I follow a similar routine for all of my OPE. My Honda generator gets an oil change in the spring and in the fall, even if it was never used. Summer oil in the spring, winter oil in the fall, always synthetic. I consider my generator a piece of emergency equipment that could be called upon to run for days on end, so I want it ready for whatever might come up.


Thanks, Larry. I never did the fogging oil. something that I will start doing.


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

I'm like you. When I get something nice, I want to keep it that way. ;-)


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I don't use fogging oil. My blower is stored in the garage, but my lawn tractor gets stored covered outside, and would probably benefit more from oil. 

Things to consider: 
- Remove the shear bolts, and spin the augers on the auger shaft. This helps keep them from rusting solidly to the auger shaft, which is trouble. If they have grease fittings, pump in new grease first. 
- Grease any other grease fittings on the machine. 
- Maybe put some oil on the auger shaft bushings in the bucket. 
- Run it to warm it up, then drain the oil and change it. I use Mobil1. Check the engine's recommendation for the weight of oil to use. 
- Fill the tank with fresh stabilized gas, start it, close the fuel shutoff, and run the engine until it dies. This empties the carb bowl for storage. If it has a drain button on the bottom of the bowl, push that afterwards to drain anything that might be left in the bowl. 
- Replace any stuff that's worn out (skid shoes, etc). 

It's not end-of-season stuff, but keeping a spare set of belts around, along with a bunch of shear pins, is also a good idea.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

The OP's intention to have a recommended routine should be made a sticky so we don't have to recall to new members every time but just show the link would be awesome.


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## brickcity (Jan 23, 2014)

maybe take the wheels off and grease them. waited 5 years before i did and they were siezed. real pain in a$$ on what should have been simple job.


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## Yard Man (Feb 28, 2015)

Sorry guys. Is there a link for me to go to? Also, what does sticky mean?


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Yard Man said:


> Sorry guys. Is there a link for me to go to? Also, what does sticky mean?


No need to apologize. How would you know? . 
A sticky is a thread that the moderator can put up at the top of a page and it 
" sticks" there. It's always at the top, so you don't have to look for it.


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

Along with all maint that has been mentioned above, I pull the wheels and rims and all painted surfaces get a through cleaning, any chips are touched up or sprayed and paint gets waxed


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## Bror Jace (Jan 13, 2015)

I would NOT fill the fuel tank. Some owners run theirs dry, I like to leave several to about a dozen ounces in the tank along with an appropriate amount of ethanol-fighting stabilizer. I want as little gas aging in my machinery during the off-season as possible. If I am going to fill it, it will be at the beginning of next season.


Change the oil if you ran the machine 20 or more hours this season … or if it is new. Can't flush that nasty breal-in schrapnel soup outta there fast enough.


Wash and rinse the machine thoroughly if you can, especially if you do a lot of work near the road where road salt accumulates. Try to get into the nooks and crannies of the machine where salt and other grime accumulates.


When the machine is dry, be sure to wipe down all exposed metal with an oily rag to prevent corrosion. Every hinge or joint you can see should get a drop or two of oil.


Hit every zerk you can see with at least a pump or two of grease. The auger will likely take more. Wipe the zerk fitting off before applying grease. I leave the excess on after I pump to protect it. 


If you really want to go all out, hit the tires with tire dressing. This is not for the bling-bling factor (obviously) as much as you are trying to keep the rubber from drying out. This is _especially_ true if the machine sits in a spot where the sunlight will hit it at all.


When fogging the engine down, shouldn't you start the motor? I can see squirting fogging oil in the spark plug hole as useful … but applying through the carb until the engine starts to stumble would coat EVERYTHING with a light layer of oil, yes? I've always done this with boat motors.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Bror Jace said:


> I would NOT fill the fuel tank. Some owners run theirs dry, I like to leave several to about a dozen ounces in the tank along with an appropriate amount of ethanol-fighting stabilizer.


That's a fair point. I haven't had issues with stabilized gas in the tank going bad during the off-season, but that doesn't mean it can't cause problems. I mentioned the full tank in part because I think I've heard that suggested for metal tanks, to prevent corrosion. Or emptied and sprayed with a bit of oil. 



> When fogging the engine down, shouldn't you start the motor? I can see squirting fogging oil in the spark plug hole as useful … but applying through the carb until the engine starts to stumble would coat EVERYTHING with a light layer of oil, yes? I've always done this with boat motors.


It seems to me that spraying the oil with the engine running would simply burn it out of the cylinder? Simply making smoke, rather than coating the cylinder walls, for instance. If I was going to do that, I'd try running the engine, then killing the ignition, and immediately spraying it into the carb's intake. Now you're pulling it through the whole engine, but not actually burning it. 

If your engine has a key/ignition switch, killing the engine that way (vs dropping the throttle) might help keep the throttle plate open, making it easier to spray the oil through the carb.


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## Bror Jace (Jan 13, 2015)

I just checked my can of Stabil fogging oil ... it says to do both. 

Spray it in through the carb with the engine running, then turn the engine off. Remove spark plug and add the straw and give the combustion chamber and cylinder a spray of oil as well. Reinstall the spark plug.

Funny coincidence. I was watching Gearz this morning and Stacey was going over maintenance and storage of OPE.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

Normex said:


> The OP's intention to have a recommended routine should be made a sticky so we don't have to recall to new members every time but just show the link would be awesome.


A scuba diving forum that I frequent did that sort of thing for regulators. It was things that the average owner could do to maintain and inspect a regulator to keep it working correctly and to know when professional (or knowledgeable DIY) attention is needed. In this case several knowledgeable members took the project off-line to scribe a first pass and it was posted as a sticky. As others made valid suggestions they went back and edited it to tighten things up. That list has become a real resource when new folks sign on and ask where to begin. Experienced divers count on it as well.

Pete


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## Bob J (Feb 8, 2015)

I would add a good coating of fluid film on any exposed drive chains/linkages after a though powerwash to remove any salt.....


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## Ken05 (Feb 13, 2015)

I have often used chain lube for an engine fog because it foams up to coat everywhere and it is sticky and stays applied. Any one know of any negatives to this?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

When it wears off, you'll know 'cause your engine starts to squeak?  

Are you spraying it in through the plug hole, or through the carb? Nothing bad comes to mind if spraying in directly through the plug hole. 

The only thing I could think of is if you're spraying it in the carb, perhaps you could obstruct something, if it's really sticky. I'd stick to using it through the plug hole, if it was me.


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## Bror Jace (Jan 13, 2015)

_"I have often used chain lube for an engine fog because it foams up to coat everywhere and it is sticky and stays applied. Any one know of any negatives to this?"_

*Ken05*, what is in the chain lube? Is it merely oil? Or are there metallic additives in it. I would suspect metallic additives, in a chain lube. Those additives such as moly or ZDDP could foul or gum up everything in your intake, and could easily foul your spark plug.


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## Ken05 (Feb 13, 2015)

I only put it the spark plug hole. When the engine fog can is empty and the chain lube can is sitting right there - it's hard to resist.
My tec has a plastic tank so I drain the tank and carb and put a shot of pure stabil in the fuel line. Been starting first or second pull for 23 years, uses no oil, runs great.


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## cub cadet 3x (Nov 2, 2014)

*Mobil 1*

hello to all i'm a little naive on the synthetic oil i see some of you gents use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, my question is, is that Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil for use in the cars engine and would that be just fine to use in the snow blower as opposed to a cars engine. they have it on sale up here at the Wal-Mart.
Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil 5W-30 look forward to your responses many thanks.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Most recommend using a synthetic oil. Some don't think it's worth the extra money.

I use Mobil1 0-40 in my blowers (non are under warranty). I like how it's easier to pull start when it's sub zero out.

I don't have any problem buying what's on sale for my cars and if cost is a big thing you can always get a house brand on sale from the auto stores.

For all things oil it's best to search here - > Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil Site

Asking what the best oil is will only start a never ending battle.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

cub cadet 3x said:


> hello to all i'm a little naive on the synthetic oil i see some of you gents use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, my question is, is that Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil for use in the cars engine and would that be just fine to use in the snow blower as opposed to a cars engine. they have it on sale up here at the Wal-Mart.
> Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil 5W-30 look forward to your responses many thanks.


Synthetic (which I use) buys you a few things above and beyond the complex Mobil sales pitch. Being in Montreal it is especially valuable to you.

1) Somewhere around -10F conventional oils begin to be less of a fluid. These are defined as the POUR POINT and PUMPING TEMPERATURE. When you start an engine stored at these conditions a splash or slinger lube system will whip the oil into a froth, filling the block until snott blows from the breather. I have had this happen personally in cold snaps hear similar reports from others including engine loss. Needless to say things are gonig bad at this point. Synthetics will behave down to any temperature where you are likely to want to use the machine.

2) On equipment that straddles the season synthetic is the only way to stay in compliance with with the engine oil requirements. For the most part broad range multi-viscosity oils like 5-30 are not recommended in conventional formulations. On topic cleaning up a spring snowstorm with SAE10 in the engine can be risky. My best example is a tractor being used for November clean-up. I may start-up well below freezing (where SAE30 is syrup) and be 60F+ in the afternoon. 

Check your literature or engine brand website for guidance. 5-30 synthetic is the most common oil for all seasons.

More here

Pete


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## 1894 (Dec 16, 2014)

cub cadet 3x said:


> hello to all i'm a little naive on the synthetic oil i see some of you gents use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, my question is, is that Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil for use in the cars engine and would that be just fine to use in the snow blower as opposed to a cars engine. they have it on sale up here at the Wal-Mart.
> Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil 5W-30 look forward to your responses many thanks.


 I am also naive on synthetics , but after reading many posts here about the difference in cold starting lubrication I decided on mobile 1 for my new blower. So far this year I did my first oil change @ 5 or 6 hours of run time and replaced with conventional 5-30 oil like what it came with , to finish the break in period for the new motor. I ran that for roughly the next 10 hours of run time , I think that was too long as the oil was pretty dark when I had a chance to change it. 

I looked at the mobile one page of all the choices in 5-30 here :
https://mobiloil.com/en/search?q=mobil%201%205W-30

I picked the plain version over the others just because the cold pour point was lowest and I think that is the main reason to change to synthetic. I only have another 6 or 7 hours on the machine but will change again with the same basic M1 for the end of season maintenance . 
Right / wrong I dunno but I feel I have not hurt the engine longevity by doing it this way. That and my engine takes 1 quart to change so the extra cost is not much.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

You don't need to over think oil. Regular oil is good and synthetic is better. Get what you can afford and most importantly change it often enough to keep it from getting cloudy or dark.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

RedOctobyr said:


> I don't use fogging oil. My blower is stored in the garage, but my lawn tractor gets stored covered outside, and would probably benefit more from oil.
> 
> Things to consider:
> - Remove the shear bolts, and spin the augers on the auger shaft. This helps keep them from rusting solidly to the auger shaft, which is trouble. If they have grease fittings, pump in new grease first.
> ...



I use fogging oil on my Personal watercraft and snowmobiles and 50 hp Force boat engine. I use Seafoam in all my gas engines. I don't usually fog my small engines since I store them in a heated garage.


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## 1894 (Dec 16, 2014)

Yard Man said:


> Hi, I didn't see a thread like the one that i want to start. I am new so if this is redundant, let me know. I will be buying a used machine soon. I just wanted to know what everyone's maintenance routine is. Do you service yourself? in fall or spring? Etc.. I had a 13 year old yard machine. I am probably going to pick up a 9 year old Ariens that is in very very good condition that was maintained well. I just want to keep it that way.
> 
> Again, if this is a redundant thread, let me know and i will search this topic.
> 
> ...





Normex said:


> The OP's intention to have a recommended routine should be made a sticky so we don't have to recall to new members every time but just show the link would be awesome.





Blue Hill said:


> No need to apologize. How would you know? .
> A sticky is a thread that the moderator can put up at the top of a page and it
> " sticks" there. It's always at the top, so you don't have to look for it.





Spectrum said:


> A scuba diving forum that I frequent did that sort of thing for regulators. *It was things that the average owner could do to maintain and inspect a regulator to keep it working correctly and to know when professional (or knowledgeable DIY) attention is needed. In this case several knowledgeable members took the project off-line to scribe a first pass and it was posted as a sticky. As others made valid suggestions they went back and edited it to tighten things up. That list has become a real resource when new folks sign on and ask where to begin. Experienced divers count on it as well.*
> 
> Pete


:sigh::sigh::sigh:

:icon-shrug::icon-shrug::icon-shrug: 

:whatdoyouthink::whatdoyouthink::whatdoyouthink:


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