# Bunch of clarification questions with this craftmans 7 26



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Is auger pully in correct position? 
Are shear pins correct? 
Is gear box oil or grease and what type? 
Craftsman 7 26 from 1979 i believe 
C944 52043 is the model


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Help plz


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Drive:
This is the machine that was dripping yellow fluid and wouldn't move isn't it?
Did you solve the drive problem doing the checks I suggested on that thread?
Your other thread here: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...s/118633-leaking-yellow-liquid-wont-move.html

Auger pulley:
I don't know what you mean by asking if the auger pulley is in the right position. It's on the shaft.. so yes.
If you mean the auger idler pulley.. then pull the handle and see if it squeezes onto the auger belt to take away the slack.
It needs to tighten up to the belt when you pull the handle and back away to let the belt go loose when you release the handle.
By the way, that belt looks a little frayed... hard to tell if it's still good enough.
What happens when you run the engine and squeeze the auger handle? Does it turn the augers?

Auger Gear Box:
I don't know if it's oil or grease but if you remove the threaded fill plug and poke around with an ear bud you should be able to see what's in there.
I already explained how to test the auger gearbox gears on your other thread when you mentioned the yellow dripping fluid.

Shear Bolts:
They look nasty and might even be regular bolts... you should change them for new shear bolts.
I also see a build up of rust in the holes where those bolts are inserted.
Take out those bolts and confirm that the augers can free-spin on their shafts. If the augers are totally rusted to the shafts then you need to get them free-spinning and lubed.
If you hit an obstacle or trap something in the augers you need the shear bolts to snap (as designed) and you need the augers to free-spin on the shafts to protect the auger gearbox.
If you have regular bolts in there.. they won't snap. If the augers are rusted solid... they won't free-spin. If either of these cases are true.. you will probably end up destroying the gears in the auger gearbox.
Also.. when you change the shear bolts.. do not tighten them down fully... they need to have some play in them otherwise they won't snap when they need to. Those bolts you currently have look to be fully tightened down. It's hard to see with the angle of the photo.


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

I'm changing belts.. Not this is not leaking fluid . (Wrong person) Just doing maintenance. ... I thought i read somewhere if it's a square plug on gear box it takes greasr other wise oil? 
Ok I 'll try to remove bolts and test . 
I'm curious where's the thread on testing gear box


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> ...I'm curious where's the thread on testing gear box...


It wasn't a major internal gearbox test... just a basic check to see if the gears are stripped and to make sure the augers are turning properly when the impeller shaft turns. I'll cut-n-paste it here..

Do the augers turn when you squeeze the handle with the engine running? Alternatively.. check the auger gearbox manually with the engine off and spark plug boot removed... reach in and turn the impeller by hand and see if the augers turn slowly as you do so. They should turn in unison in one direction (but probably not in the other direction). The gear ratio means you'll need to turn the impeller a lot to make the augers turn just a little. there should be no grinding noises or lumpiness or jumpiness coming from the auger gearbox.

Can you find the decal giving the model number for that snowblower? That will help us find the necessary belts and shear bolts and maybe even a service manual to see what lube goes inside the gearbox.

This DonyBoy73 video shows him adding "zero zero"grease to an auger gearbox with a similar looking plug. He also discusses the shear pins. If you can find the model number of the blower you'll be able to get a more accurate answer for your particular machine.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

You need to pull out your shear pins to check to see if they are shear pins. If they are, you need to clean off any rust that's on them, grease them, and put them back in again. Prior to putting them in you need to spin each auger to see if it spins freely, if not you need to unfreeze it, you also need to grease the augers. You can check to see if they are shear pins or not with two brand new ones. You cannot use bolts as if you hit anything it will destroy the gears in the gearbox. You need to pull out your shear pins to check to see if they are, then you need to clean of any rust and put them back in again.


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Gearbox is ok ... Any tips on how to remove gear box plug seems be on pretty good ..????..
Sheer pins have the letter f on the head is that correct. ?? With them removed auger the left side moves with some force the right side does not budge !!

How can I unfreeze it? And how easily should they spin


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> Gearbox is ok ... Any tips on how to remove gear box plug seems be on pretty good ..????..
> Sheer pins have the letter f on the head is that correct. ?? With them removed auger the left side moves with some force the right side does not budge !!
> How can I unfreeze it? And how easily should they spin


The square plug is probably the same size as the internal square shape on a ratchet extension. That lets you put the extension over the plug then use a vice grip on the extension itself to get some leverage.

I don't know what the "F" on the bolt means. I would not take a chance... I would go buy replacement shear bolts. We still need your model number to look up exactly which shear bolts to use. However, until you get those augers free-spinning.. shear bolts won't really save your gearbox from damage. The rust is just too strong.

How easily should they spin? The easier they spin the better.... you want them to spin without passing any stress or shock to the gears when something gets trapped. 
It sounds like one is totally rusted solid and the other is mostly rusted... that's what I guessed looking at your shear-bolt photo. That machine has been neglected and exposed to water.

It's really up to you at this point how to unfreeze them. Some people have a press.. I don't... so I'm stuck with trying to use brute force and hammers. I don't have high temperature torches either.
You can start by trying to get PB blaster onto the shaft somehow by squirting in at the edges and in through those bolt holes but it's going to be tough to get the stuff in there. Applying heat from a torch can help too. To do it properly, it will feel like a lot of work..you may need to dismantle the augers, shaft, gearbox and impeller from the auger-bucket, next, get the augers off the shaft somehow (easier said than done) then file or grind all the rust off the shaft. Next, get lots of marine grease onto the shafts and ideally add grease zerks to the augers so that it will be much easier to add grease next time. If you don't do this, you will probably trash your auger gearbox the first time you trap something or hit an obstacle.


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

I got the plug off I can't tell if it grease or oil?? 
It's a craftsman 7/26 model x44 52043 I can't read the first number .
The motor cover says 
143 686132 ser 8172c

Can u tell me the part numbers of the belts and drain plug also along with the shear pins . 

Thx !!


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> I got the plug off I can't tell if it grease or oil??
> It's a craftsman 7/26 model x44 52043 I can't read the first number .
> The motor cover says
> 143 686132 ser 8172c
> ...


I explained the engine number on your other thread here: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ce-forum/114858-craftsman-7hp-pop-squeal.html
Re-read post #9 on that thread. However the engine numbers don't help you to find parts for the rest of the snowblower.

At this point I think you need to call Sears Parts Direct and hope they can narrow down the proper model number by searching some database that we can't see online. 1-800-491-3457
I still think you may have a missing digit in that model number... they usually are XXX-YYYYYY

The manufacturer codes for Craftsman are listed here: http://vintagemachinery.org/Craftsman/manufacturers.aspx
944 would be Husqvarna
144 would be Trane
244 would be Kal Equipment/Peerless Instruments


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

wantboost, you are from Canada if I remember correctly? Your model number is probably C944.52043 and is a Canadian model. Your best bet is to contact Sears in Canada and see if they have a owners\parts manual for your machine.

Here is a link to a thread discussing Sears Canada snow blowers.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/craftsman-snowblowers/28417-old-craftsman-c944-52750-parts.html


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Ah... Canada eh? That explains the weird model numbers.

Hey wantboost... if you update the location on your profile we'll see it next time  I just assumed you'd have a US model number.
Good luck with Sears Canada and good luck with the rust. That rust probably explains a lot of the squeal and the wear on the auger belt.

Even without getting the actual parts diagrams...
The drain plug should be fairly standard and it's just a matter of matching the thread and diameter at your favorite hardware store.
The belt can always be measured at the repair shop and they'll probably find you a replacement from some manufacturer like Oregon.


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Ok I 'll call Sears..... I think this the shaft has ever been grease how much should I pump in to each side??


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> Ok I 'll call Sears..... I think this the shaft has ever been grease how much should I pump in to each side??


Can I assume you already have grease zerks in those augers? If so, that will help to get them loose if you can get the grease to go past the rust.
How much grease should you pump into each side of the auger shafts?... As much as you can get in there until it oozes out the other ends.
Whatever it takes to get those augers loose and spinning. No such thing as too much grease at this stage. 
Marine grease is best because it handles water and snow. Just put a piece of cardboard under the machine to catch any lube that falls off.

You probably need to go through every moving part on that blower and grease everything... but try to keep it off the friction disc and the friction wheel.
If some drips onto them... clean it off again with a little gasoline on a paper towel. You need good friction between the rubber wheel and the disc platter.
Similarly, when you lube the idler pulleys, try to keep the lube off the belts and off the faces of the pulleys that touch the belts.
Every bearing, every movable part, every pulley, the chute, handle levers... put oil down into the cables between the wire and the plastic outer sheath... just everything.
If you can pop the wheels off and file the rust off the drive shafts and then use anti-seize or grease that will help stop the wheels rusting onto the shafts if it's not too late.

Here's a few videos showing the main places to lube: https://www.google.com/search?q=sno...mdPWAhXI31QKHYZbCwUQ_AUIDCgD&biw=1920&bih=926


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

so the model is c944 52043 I called sears Canada, nothing comes up on there computer I guess too old?
944 is made by Husqvarna do I call them?
I cannot call the usa sears from Canada
yes the auger does have zerks

thx


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> so the model is c944 52043 I called sears Canada, nothing comes up on there computer I guess too old?
> 944 is made by Husqvarna do I call them? I cannot call the usa sears from Canada. yes the auger does have zerks. thx


Sears USA won't be able to help with Canadian machines but I'll give them a call for you and let you know if they can help.
Anyway, it's not too important to have a parts list for the kinds of things you are looking for.

The gearbox drain plug will be a standard size. All that matters is the diameter and thread count. Were the threads stripped on the one you removed? Or did the corners get rounded off?
The belts will be a standard size. Take the old belt to any small engine repair shop and they'll have a wall-mounted measuring device to get a matching belt. 
The shear bolts will also be a standard size. Although it's best to get the exact part number.. if you can't find out what the part number is.. any shear bolt that is the same length and diameter should be close enough. I'm hoping that they all use similar weak metal.... Just don't be tempted to use a normal strong bolt.. 
Do you need anything else?


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Thx ! 
I put in parts request with husquarna . 
The belt is stretched as u can see in my pics they will still be able to find correct one ? 
Is gear box grease or oil I can't tell . And what type?
Yes corners got rounded off . How much torque is needed to tighten them


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

stuart80112 said:


> Sears USA won't be able to help with Canadian machines but I'll give them a call for you and let you know if they can help....


Sears USA could not help... they put me through to Sears Canada... they couldn't find the model either (as you already mentioned)
I asked them for a Canadian Husqvarna number and they said it was 1(800)805-5523. 
You could try calling them but they might also say it's too old.... however we won't know unless you try.
It's not a big deal for the parts you've mentioned but it's worth a phone call.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> Thx !
> I put in parts request with husquarna .
> The belt is stretched as u can see in my pics they will still be able to find correct one ?
> Is gear box grease or oil I can't tell . And what type?
> Yes corners got rounded off . How much torque is needed to tighten them


Belt: Yes they'll be able to match it even if it's slightly stretched... those belts go up in multiples of inches so the stretch won't be so bad as to confuse them. The cross-sectional shape and width of the belt also has to match but they should know what they are doing at the repair shop. You'll instantly see if it looks like a good match when you compare the old with the new.
You should not need it but here's a calculator to calculate the probable belt size http://www.calculatoredge.com/mech/vbelt length.htm

Gearbox: Like I said earlier.. I don't know if it's oil or grease... If you cannot get a definitive answer.. I'd just use zero-zero grease like DonyBoy did in that video link I gave you. Although you aren't really supposed to mix different grease types, I doubt if it will be too critical for an auger gearbox... they are not high temperature or high pressure or anything like that. If you stand the machine on its nose on a piece of cardboard with the gearbox plug removed you'll soon see if it's oil or grease... it will come pouring out if it's oil.

Gearbox Plug Torque: Again I don't know... all gearboxes should have similar torques... maybe you could google until you find one that looks about the same size. However, I'd just guess if I had to and make sure it's in tight enough to not leak but not so tight as to strip the threads or crack the casing. If you end up using grease, the chance of it leaking goes way down. If in doubt... make sure you don't over-tighten it... you can always torque it up a little later if it seems to be leaking. Main thing is not to damage anything. I bet you could reuse that plug if you used an adjustable wrench/spanner to line up square on what's left of the straight edges... or put the square part of a socket-wrench extension over the plug like I mentioned earlier. (see photo)

Sorry I can't give any better answers. Maybe some Canadian forum members can chime in here and help out.


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

I called 2 local small engine repair places . Both don't have 00 grease for auger gear box . One has a liquid grease for it but it's 30$. What else could I use? 
Also for thr gear for drive wheels I could not find white grease at big box store is synthic grease the same I assume ?? Or use a spray lithium grease ?
I did find this for either auger gearbox and or bug gears in the transmission for the wheels??https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.3-oz-tube-synthetic-grease-with-syncolon-ptfe.1000735868.html


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> I called 2 local small engine repair places . Both don't have 00 grease for auger gear box . One has a liquid grease for it but it's 30$. What else could I use?
> Also for thr gear for drive wheels I could not find white grease at big box store is synthic grease the same I assume ?? Or use a spray lithium grease ?


I'm trying to help but have no specific answers for that specific machine. Where are all the Canadian Craftsman members and general lube people?
I guess the main consideration is to use something that is suitable for low temperatures to avoid it turning too stiff. I guess that's the main feature of zero-zero grease.
You also want to use something that says it is safe for yellow metals.... If you have a brass gear in there you don't want the grease to attack it.

This post gives several possibilities including the zero-zero grease and where to buy it. Craftsman snowblower auger gearbox lubricant? - DoItYourself.com Community Forums

This google search shows lots of people asking the same question and there are many different answers. https://www.google.com/search?q=auger+gearbox+grease&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

That first link mentions several options including this MAG-00 : https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Multi-Purpose-Greases/MAG-00-and-MAG-1.html
and it mentions this Alco Super Lube zero-zero: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Grease-OUNCE-TUBE/dp/B009AM4FJQ

Also.. yes.. I've seen various general lube and maintenance videos where people use Spray Lithium Grease in the drive/transmission areas.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Hey wantboost... how's that stuck auger coming along? Did the grease zerks help to free it?
If you are feeling frustrated, take a look at this picture.... but don't be tempted to do the same. ;-)
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/snowblower-repairs-maintenance-forum/118762-stuck-rake-fun.html

Just a warning... if you end up using brute force to try to twist the auger on its shaft... a lot of spring tension can build up in the metal as you tug on it.
Watch out for it springing back into place and trapping a finger. If you feel yourself getting angry.. take a time out... that's when I do something stupid.


----------



## DriverRider (Nov 20, 2016)

Simplicity has for years specified LubriPlate GR132 in the auger box which is a NLGI 1 grease. The less viscous 00 grease can be gotten here.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-cotton-picker-spindle-grease-00


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

If you are a bit geeky like me and like to see a bit of the science... this video does a great job of demonstrating why EP-00 grease works well. 
I think that means Extreme Pressure zero-zero or Extra Protection zero-zero depending on who you ask.
Be patient and wait for the third experiment to see the amazing EP-00 results.


----------



## Taurus04 (Dec 10, 2014)

"00" grease is available from Tractor Supply in the US. I am lucky to live near the border. It is also called corn grease or spindle grease and is used in farming equipment, so any farming or tractor service center (John Deere, Massey Ferguson etc) might have it. If you can get it at tractor Supply it is only $5.00 or so for a quart.


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

I cant get the drive belt off . I held back the tensioner and still too tight how do I get the belt off . ?
Also should I add oil to tensioner bearings?


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> I can get the drive belt off . I held back the tensioner and still too tight how do I get the belt off . ?
> Also should I add oil to tensioner bearings?


I guess you mean you can't get the drive belt off (typo?). If you take the spark plug boot off (or better still take the plug out so you aren't fighting compression)..
If you pull on the starter rope to turn the shaft at the same time that you coax the belt off one edge of the pulley.. eventually the belt should walk off the pulley.
Then repeat the process to walk it past the auger pulley too (although it looks like it will just drop off in your case because you have things cracked apart).. 
Put the belts back in the reverse order... drive first.. auger last.

As for the idler.. I'd lubricate anything that moves but keep the lube away from the belts and away from the faces of the pulley that the belt will eventually ride on. 
Make sense?

EDIT: looks like you've removed the belt guide(s).. Usually you only need to loosen them and twirl them out of the way... that's OK if you remember where they go.


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

They gave me 585416ma belt . I'm guessing the person before had the wrong belt?? Should there be this much slack and still a bit of slack when engaged?


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> They gave me 585416ma belt . I'm guessing the person before had the wrong belt?? Should there be this much slack and still a bit of slack when engaged?


How could they say the previous person had the wrong belt unless they were familiar with the model number and looked it up?
The drive belt looks OK.... it probably should be engaged at all times for many friction drive machines.... if the drive lever does NOT move an idler pulley then it needs to be engaged at all times. The lever is actually squeezing the friction wheel and the friction disc in that case.

The auger one looks more loose than any I've seen. Check that you have it threaded around the pulley and through the brake (if there is one). Is that belt substantially bigger than the one you took off.. it shouldn't be especially if your old belt was stretched.... if anything.. it should be slightly shorter to compensate for the stretch in the old belt. 
Did they measure your old belts on that wall device I told you about or did they choose a belt based on some part lookup? I suspect they got that one wrong if it's longer than the old one.

It's a pity we never found the parts list for your Canadian model number. Is the store close by? Can you still remember which one is the old auger belt... have them re-measure it.
If they are using a parts lookup... ask them to show it to you and make sure they didn't read from the wrong row in a table or something like that.


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Yes I took the old one in . I 'll go back and get another one ..... How much slack should there be when the auger lever is NOT engaged .


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

I got another belt . Model 4-360 . 36" belt . Mxb4-360... look at this gap is that normal obviously I pulled up on the belt so u can see the gap . Is this normal? Of it's any tighter it will be riding on drive shaft and the auger will always spin????

The second pic is after I engaged the auger and released . Slight gap still


----------



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

If I got for a 35 inch it will be too tight? And auger will always spin ?


----------



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

That should be fine, it’s supposed to be loose until you engage the auger then the idler pulley puts tension on it to spin the augers.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

wantboost said:


> If I got for a 35 inch it will be too tight? And auger will always spin ?


Google for DonyBoy videos.. his are the best
Try something like "Auger belt adjustment"
Then you'll see video examples of what looks about right

I always start with his videos for just about ANYTHING I'll ever want to do on snowblower.

Here is that search and there are two hits at the top
https://www.google.com/search?q=auger+belt+adjustment&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Once you see how they work and why they work the way they do.. you'll have more of a feel for what adjustments may or may not be necessary and why.


----------



## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

wantboost said:


> I called 2 local small engine repair places . Both don't have 00 grease for auger gear box . One has a liquid grease for it but it's 30$. What else could I use?
> Also for thr gear for drive wheels I could not find white grease at big box store is synthic grease the same I assume ?? Or use a spray lithium grease ?
> I did find this for either auger gearbox and or bug gears in the transmission for the wheels??https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.3-oz-tube-synthetic-grease-with-syncolon-ptfe.1000735868.html


john deere corn head grease


----------

