# evaluating 10000 series and other older blowers



## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

I've never owned or used a snowblower but my neighbor who usually plows my drive is gone this winter. I am hoping I can pick up an inexpensive older model like the 10000 series that is cheap but works. I can put a little money into it over time but I don't want major expenses. I have very big home and auto expenses coming up so I don't want to spend more than 200 bucks right now. Its OK if it needs some work and I'm sure it will at that price point, but it does also need to clear my small driveway for now too.

I went to look at a 910019 today. Guy had trouble starting it but I think he just didn't have the choke all the way closed. Once it started it sounded good, but then (after a 45 minute drive to see it) he told me the reverse doesn't work. It had Carlisle tires which pretty much sucked. It blew OK but didnt have great traction and I saw a crack at the foremost mounting bolt of the handle too. I walked away. I probably could have had it for 100 bucks but I want something that works now, even if it needs work later. I was bummed it wasn't in better shape. There are some nicer ones around but I don' t have 400+ to spend

So my question is how do I best elavuate one of these 10000 series? What are the weak points? What should I look for and what questions should I ask? 

There's another one for sale similar to the above but its an hour away. It has a rebuilt carb and he installed electric start.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Welcome to the Snowblower forum!
Where are you located, generally speaking?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Sounds like you have the knowledge to peruse a purchase. I have 2 of the 10000 series, and I repowered both and did a complete nut and bolt restore on one of them also.

The 924 series are another good series ..... I Refurbished two of those this year, and sold them because I needed the room back in my shop.

I am fortunate, as I have never had to pay for any of my blowers, they were all obtained for free. I did obtain them all in off season.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Be sure to check out Scot's site that covers the early Ariens under the Ariens section! In valuable information for you.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

I learned what little I know from Scot's site last night before I went to look at the one today. I had the good sense to keep looking. I'm in northern MN. I couldn't figure out how to make the dif lock work, or stop working, so I obviously haven't learned enough yet. The handle seemed shaky and I don't weld, nor am I super mechanical although I can muddle my way through simple stuff. I'm sure one of you could have it in tip top shape pronto.

the other one I may go look at is a 7hp of similar vintage, not positive of the model but its got the white handles so according to the site its the entry level one for whatever year it is. I'm sure either one of the two would be great for someone with the interest and ability in restoring, but I just want something that works right now, and will keep working without large investment if I take care of it. 

What do I need to be looking at so there are no big expensive surprises if I bring one home? I know I can't complain at the price point I'm looking at, but if I bring something home and it works once and dies I will complain anyway.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

welcome to the SBF noblower


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

Thanks and thanks.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Welcome to SBF @noblower !

You may want to broaden your search a bit to other makes from that great OPE era. 

I've gotten a few bombproof Toros for nothing or next-to-nothing. Simplicity, Allis Chalmers, Gilson, Bobcat, Gravely and Snapper are also super robust. 

*PS93's Toro's History Page*
Here's a really nice page giving a nice overview of vintage machines: *Vintage Machine Showcase*


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

If I was in the market for one right this second, this is the one I'd scoop. It's the 32 wide, its clean and its already been repowered with an engine capable of powering that size. I bought my 32 wide a few years back for $195 and it still had its original underpowered 7hp engine. So I had to pull it, sell it and than add the predator. All the works done at $100 bucks already on this one, steal. Their tanks. Aside from the original engines on them getting long in the tooth, the machines themselves were built tough and are reliable, heavy duty, much heavier than anything built today. Their easy to maintain, 1 belt. Information is abundant on them. You'll need chains, the stock tires they have get no traction or upgrade to new tires. I just went with chains, chains still give the best traction of all. Get a taller chute for it, your set for life with one of these. Their all approaching 50 years old and are still out working hard, that's a testament to them. (Oh, I missed the fact, he already upgraded it to snohog tires, better than the originals, would still add chains). 1970’s Ariens Snow Blower - tools - by owner - sale


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

classiccat said:


> Welcome to SBF @noblower !
> 
> You may want to broaden your search a bit to other makes from that great OPE era.
> 
> ...


I won't restrict myself too much, but Ariens are pretty common around here and the others aren't. The only other one in my area and price range is a Toro 521 and I think that may be a little small. I live in the snow belt and need it for a driveway


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

Dusty said:


> If I was in the market for one right this second, this is the one I'd scoop. It's the 32 wide, its clean and its already been repowered with an engine capable of powering that size. I bought my 32 wide a few years back for $195 and it still had its original underpowered 7hp engine. So I had to pull it, sell it and than add the predator. All the works done at $100 bucks already on this one, steal. Their tanks. Aside from the original engines on them getting long in the tooth, the machines themselves were built tough and are reliable, heavy duty, much heavier than anything built today. Their easy to maintain, 1 belt. Information is abundant on them. You'll need chains, the stock tires they have get no traction or upgrade to new tires. I just went with chains, chains still give the best traction of all. Get a taller chute for it, your set for life with one of these. Their all approaching 50 years old and are still out working hard, that's a testament to them. (Oh, I missed the fact, he already upgraded it to snohog tires, better than the originals, would still add chains). 1970’s Ariens Snow Blower - tools - by owner - sale


I'd grab it too if it wasn't 800 miles away.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

Welcome aboard.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

I dont intend to buy that one I looked at but for educational purposes, what does it take to fix a no reverse problem?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

If everything is in good shape, just a drive lever adjustment. Hard to answer that without seeing the machine.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

noblower said:


> I learned what little I know from Scot's site last night before I went to look at the one today. I had the good sense to keep looking. I'm in northern MN. I couldn't figure out how to make the dif lock work, or stop working, so I obviously haven't learned enough yet. The handle seemed shaky and I don't weld, nor am I super mechanical although I can muddle my way through simple stuff. I'm sure one of you could have it in tip top shape pronto.
> 
> the other one I may go look at is a 7hp of similar vintage, not positive of the model but its got the white handles so according to the site its the entry level one for whatever year it is. I'm sure either one of the two would be great for someone with the interest and ability in restoring, but I just want something that works right now, and will keep working without large investment if I take care of it.
> 
> What do I need to be looking at so there are no big expensive surprises if I bring one home? I know I can't complain at the price point I'm looking at, but if I bring something home and it works once and dies I will complain anyway.


Too far South?








Ariens Deluxe 28 SHO - farm & garden - by owner - sale


Ariens 2 stage blower 14” impeller & 306cc engine Used twice for a couple big storms otherwise I use my single stage toro need the money, I paid $1400.00 Deluxe 28 SHO $975.00 Cash or Venmo...



minneapolis.craigslist.org




OR








Honda HS928 Snowblower - farm & garden - by owner - sale


Good used honda heavy duty snowblower, new belt for auger and drive, brand new skid shoe, new scaper bar, oil change, ready for the winter..have 2 and selling one as property sold..please leave me...



minneapolis.craigslist.org


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

Rooskie said:


> Too far South?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


5 times too expensive too. I'm on top of craigslist, but thanks.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

I'm going to look at a 910995 tomorrow. 7hp 24 inch with drift cutters. It sounds like this guy took good care of it although he's only had it a couple years. New belts new bearings new head gasket new tires new electric start...says its a PIA to start so he installed that and it fires right up. Any final advice appreciated, I hope to bring this one home because we got hammered last night and I don't want to shovel it!


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Welp...my two cents. I learned about snowblowers pretty much from scratch with a 10,000 series 910962. It was a BASKET CASE I inherited.

Just an FYI, a 910995 is the attachment model # (24" snow throw, early 70's). Those went on a LOT of blowers thru the years. The tractor (and therefore engine HP if original...as well as whether it has locking differential etc) will be maybe a 910962 (7hp), 910965 (5hp) etc...

Read Scot's pinned thread website for details on how to figure all these out. It is a MUST for buying and owning these machines. Seriously...study that information, it is a gold mine and The Primer for knowing how to buy these machines used.


First off...a no reverse 10,000 to me probably means the friction wheel is misaligned. If the forward gears seem abnormally fast to you, probably a good sign that's the issue. This I believe is an adjustment involving the gear lever rod where it meets up with the linkage on the tractor. What you can do is to tip the rear of the tractor on some sort of blocks of wood to where you can pull the tractor rear cover plate off, then shift through the gears while not running. If the friction wheel sits dead center of the friction plate (or ever so slightly off center), it may be out of adjustment. The friction disc will when shifting gears move horizontally from left to right since the plate rotates in one direction only. Forward the disc will move out to the edge of the plate. As you reduce forward gears, it will move across the plate towards the center...1st gear will be just off center on the same side as 4th gear. Then when in reverse, the disc will move across the center point of the plate to the opposite side of 1st gear/forward gears.

The drive plate may also have a bunch of crud at that spot also...hard to say without viewing it up close. But the only way to know what is going on is by propping up the machine, removing the cover plate, then shifting gears and inspecting. If my memory is good in 4th the dic will be at the far right of the plate, in reverse just left off center of the disc.

That being said, what I would look for in buying one is the following...I HIGHLY recommend knowing how to properly operate the machine beforehand. Be a knowledgeable buyer. Read the instructions stickers on the bucket and tractor (and I'd bet this forum has them as well as Youtube videos do too) so you know how to properly shift gears, how to engage and disengage the attachment, actually start the engine, etc. It's funny how these machines tend to work perfect when you know intimately how they operate! For example, trying to start the engine with the bucket engaged will make it really difficult to start (go figure). Then engaging the auger...you have two steps that must be done in order, as well as disengaging must be done in reverse order.

Then starting procedure. It probably has no "classic" primer...that's OK, not supposed to if the original Tecumseh. It will have a horizontal choke lever, and might still have what they call a primer but all it really is is another choke. The procedures for starting will state to turn the fuel shutoff on (if equipped), throttle to full/start. Then turn the horizontal choke lever to full choke. Then while pushing in the button choke fully, give the starter rope a "half pull" a couple times to pull in fuel via vacuum. 

THEN give the rope a full pull (or electric starter). If the Tecumseh is running good, it should pop right off easily with 1-2 pulls or a second tops of the electric starter. Usually those H50 thru H70 series motors will need the choke on for maybe tops 5 or so seconds. I usually let them warm up for roughly 30 or so seconds, then have at it.

So...

1) Does it indeed work in all 4 forward and reverse gears.
2) Does it shift cleanly - meaning, 10,000 series can have a hard time shifting from reverse to neutral to forward gears...I have a thread from a couple years ago detailing the ordeal I went through getting mine to work correct. It was a royal pain to ultimately diagnose what was wrong, then how to fix it. I was teaching myself in the process of fixing it - but the end result was a smooth shifting machine.
3) Does it plow snow with the augers engaged without killing the engine. Some machines can run fine, and move fine, and turn the augers fine...but can they do all 3 of those at the same time fine?
4) Fuel leaks...look under the tank and also under the carburetor's heater box for leaks.
5) Does the engine require the choke to be on to run properly? If the carb is all sorted out, you should need to choke it to cold start, then half choke it to warm up (maybe 15 to 30 seconds), then choke off and it runs like a top. If it "needs choke to run full time", it needs to be rebuilt or at the very least cleaned.
6) Does the throttle lever stay put? Meaning, a worn lever will slowly but surely reduce in RPM's over time running, necessitating having to goose the throttle over and over again. If that occurs, it can be possible to do a bending of the lever itself using a screwdriver and vise grips...but ultimately a new throttle cable will be needed.
7) Check the oil...black as coal, or lighter colored. Is it full? Are they using dino oil or full synthetic (which makes it much easier to cold start by rope).
8) If electric starter, is it tightly mounted (can you physically wiggle the starter)? Does it engage properly to turn over the engine immediately? BTW it will be noisy no matter what...but sometimes they don't fully engage, sometimes the mounting bolts back out over time, etc.
9) Does the pull rope work? It should catch when lightly pulling no more than say 6 or so inches. Also, does the rope retract properly?
10) Check the belt. Pull the cover. Is it cracked or overly stiff? Chunks missing? Belt debris all over the belt compartment? Crap in the compartment can cause belt slipping. An overly worn belt can cause the machine to not plow properly. The belt should NOT turn the auger at all when disengaged, yet engage fully and turn the augers without slippage.
11) Somehow lift via the handlebars and prop the tractor up with the wheels free. Then grab each wheel and lift up and down and side to side to see if there is any axle play. The bearings are against the tractor housing where the axles enter it...if the bearings and bearing supports are shot, the axle will have a gap of sorts usually downward as you look from above between the wheel hub and where the axle enters.
12) If possible, pull the tractor back access plate and inspect the friction disc, friction plate, and generally everything you see. They can get really grimy over the years from oil leaks, belt and friction disc wear, grease getting flung, etc. The friction disc should have no cracks, the friction plate should be clean and free of disc shavings/oil/grease...and hopefully the tractor case in general have been cleaned of excess everything some time in its life.
13) Ask maintenance questions. How old is the belt. When last oil change, what was used. What type of gasoline was used (hopefully non-ethanol). Has the auger gearcase oil been changed and if so, when. Last time was it lubed up? Has it ever been tuned up or had the carb rebuilt?

Be respectful if they don't know, be respectful when asking. But all that stuff adds up to what you MAY have to do yourself or have done. KNOW what you're buying. Most general maintenance stuff on these...like I say, I learned about snowblowers by learning how to do all this stuff myself. Most of it is quite easy, and the resources as to how to do it all is on this site and also on Youtube too.

And I can't stress enough, research as much as possible before you go over. This site and Youtube are outstanding resources to know about these machines. Everything I know about old school Ariens I learned from this site and YT. The info is indeed out there - use it!


These are a good starting point I'd think, but there are experts galore that can add to or correct any mistakes I made. It has been a full winter since I owned a 10,000 so I may have forgotten some stuff. I personally wouldn't be scared away from "cosmetic" stuff so much as "does the machine work like it is supposed to". My first 910962...it took almost 2 years to get it all sorted out and still looked terrible once I got it mechanically straightened out.

But oh man, was it a beast once all fixed up.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

Wow thank you for that tremendous amount of great information! I will make sure to check as much of that as I can. 

I was confused about that model number at first, but it does seem to be a snowblower model. I have a parts list that shows handlebars, grips name plates, and other parts of the upper unit for a 910995. I wonder if they used that number for both a snowblower and the attachment...but it doesn't really matter, its a 7 horse Ariens in the 10000 series that much I know for sure.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

If it has the chrome handle bars, there is a good chance it has the slip differential, a great feature ... you will see it on the inside of the hub area.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

It does not have chrome bars, but neither did the one I looked at yesterday. It had a knob on the left wheel that I presume was the diff lock though I wasn't sure how to work it


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

tlshawks said:


> Welp...my two cents. I learned about snowblowers pretty much from scratch with a 10,000 series 910962. It was a BASKET CASE I inherited.
> 
> Just an FYI, a 910995 is the attachment model # (24" snow throw, early 70's). Those went on a LOT of blowers thru the years. The tractor (and therefore engine HP if original...as well as whether it has locking differential etc) will be maybe a 910962 (7hp), 910965 (5hp) etc...
> 
> ...



Excellent advice for buying a 10000 series, or any used machine.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

noblower said:


> Wow thank you for that tremendous amount of great information! I will make sure to check as much of that as I can.
> 
> I was confused about that model number at first, but it does seem to be a snowblower model. I have a parts list that shows handlebars, grips name plates, and other parts of the upper unit for a 910995. I wonder if they used that number for both a snowblower and the attachment...but it doesn't really matter, its a 7 horse Ariens in the 10000 series that much I know for sure.


I have both a 1971 24" and 32". The model systems on these units had one on the back tractor end as well as one on the front for the snowblower bucket. It was done that way, because other attachments were available. The 24" units from 71-72 are 910962 on the back and 910995 on the front.
The 32" wide units have the model 910954 on the back and 910955 up front. I also have the rotory mower attachment for it from 1967. Its model 35-10m.
The chrome handle units came standard with the differential for attachments such as the mower. The white handle units came with a solid one piece axle and the differential could be added. The 7hp was the most powerful available until 72. In 73 the 8hp was introduced for the last 2 years of production and upgrades to safety were added.
I always have my differential locked when using it as a snowblower, so if your not planning on getting any of the summer attachments either one is suitable. I was originally snapping the roll pin that holds the differential locking hub to the wheel when I upgraded to machine to the predator with tire chains. The hollow roll pin just couldn't handle the pounding away on the pavement. I have since put solid clevis pins thru to hold it on. Their far stronger and don't snap the way those roll pins were, so I would have been better off with the solid axle in that regard.
Just be patient and keep your eyes open. I've checked in the past and a 32" for $100 bucks was never seen before. Now all of a sudden their it is, up for grabs. They come and go.
I love my 10,000 series. Their very solid reliable units. After modifying them, they throw like modern machines with the muscle of the classic American machinery. I'll never get rid of them.
If the ones you looked at had white handlebars and the knob for the differential was present on the left wheel facing the machine from the back, than they were added. It works very simply, pull it out and turn it, it unlocks it out, pull it and turn it until it clicks back into the hole in the rim it locks it back in.
Here's my 1971 32" wide as an example of what these units are capable of being turned into with basic modifications. This machine devours snow at a very high rate and its throwing up to 40 feet away now no problem. I can clear 6 foot tall fences with very little trouble. My 24" is handy for tighter area's.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

So what is "the proper way to shift" these things? Wasn't able to find that info and hoping someone can reply quickly before I hit the road to look at this one


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Shift in neutral, with the clutch properly engaged ... i.e. you don't want to be shifting on the fly, thus just jamming/dragging it over the drive plate, etc.


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## Seaweed (Jan 18, 2016)

I'm not sure of the year but the friction wheel in the early ones is a pia to change, with many steps. At some point (maybe someone can chime in) this was reconfigured and became a lot easier to change. Maybe '72'ish? Not a reason not to buy but just wanted to mention it.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

What Seaweed is referring to is the 10000 series ... as most of them have a rod going through one of the shafts, which no one looks after, and they always seize together ... makes it difficult to get apart, thus a bit more involved to change a friction disc. They remedied this in the 924 series, which is a lot easier to change out a disc.

Luckily, if the units are properly cared for and maintained, not really an issue ... with proper operation, a friction disc should last you a very long time.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

As I mentioned, I never paid for a snow blower, all mine were free, but if your going for an older Ariens unit, I would recommend one of the 924 series.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

Too late. And none of those were available anyway and if they had been they likely wouldn't have been in my price range. I brought home a fully functional 910995 or whatever it is for 100 bucks. The "Model #" on the chassis label is blank, but that's the number on the chute. The shifting is a bit sticky but all gears are there and I didn't expect perfect. Gotta change the oil before I use it. The parts manual says to use Ariens 5-20 sno thro oil which if it still exists, doesnt exist for me at least this weekend. Will a 5-30 work just as well? Thats what this site says to use


Consumer - Article · Customer Self-Service


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

noblower said:


> Too late. And none of those were available anyway and if they had been they likely wouldn't have been in my price range. I brought home a fully functional 910995 or whatever it is for 100 bucks. The "Model #" on the chassis label is blank, but that's the number on the chute. The shifting is a bit sticky but all gears are there and I didn't expect perfect. Gotta change the oil before I use it. The parts manual says to use Ariens 5-20 sno thro oil which if it still exists, doesnt exist for me at least this weekend. Will a 5-30 work just as well? Thats what this site says to use
> 
> 
> Consumer - Article · Customer Self-Service


Welcome to the old iron club @noblower ! 

5w30 synthetic is what most of us use in our snow engines.

Regarding the rough shifting, all you probably need to do is carefully clean off the hex shaft that the friction wheel rides on and apply a super light coat of grease; You don't want any flinging off on the metal drive disc.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Ditto on what classiccat said ... 5W30 Full Synthetic motor oil and lube the friction disc slide drive shaft.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Be sure to put Sta-bil and Seafoam in your fuel.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

tlshawks said:


> Just an FYI, a 910995 is the attachment model # (24" snow throw, early 70's). Those went on a LOT of blowers thru the years. The tractor (and therefore engine HP if original...as well as whether it has locking differential etc) will be maybe a 910962 (7hp), 910965 (5hp) etc...


And you are at least partly right, as I figured you must be! I found the model number for sure now, its stamped in the chassis below that "blank" label. Under the layer of grime, it clearly says 910965

However its also a 7 HP according to the label on the engine that says "7 HP", which based on everything I've read, it shouldn't be. So figure that one out...
.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

I guess the 5 6 and 7 hp have the same footprint so perhaps it wasn't a difficult change for someone to make. Anyway I'm happy; I don't think a 5hp would have been quite enough for me. 

Got the oil changed and will be hitting the driveway this morning. Wishing myself good luck to not make any bad discoveries...it worked great at the previous owners place haha!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

How about some photos of the new machine (everyone loves photos).
Looks like you will have to update your SBF name


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

noblower said:


> I guess the 5 6 and 7 hp have the same footprint so perhaps it wasn't a difficult change for someone to make. Anyway I'm happy; I don't think a 5hp would have been quite enough for me.
> 
> Got the oil changed and will be hitting the driveway this morning. Wishing myself good luck to not make any bad discoveries...it worked great at the previous owners place haha!


Did you find all the manuals for it OK? They're all online somewhere.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

Rooskie said:


> Did you find all the manuals for it OK? They're all online somewhere.


I have only found the parts manual so far...everything I've found that says its the model manual all link back to the same parts manual.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

That's it. Much more comprehensive than a Honda manual by miles. Enjoy!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

noblower said:


> I have only found the parts manual so far...everything I've found that says its the model manual all link back to the same parts manual.


skip to page 39.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

yeah thats the one I found. an owners manual would be nice


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

noblower said:


> yeah thats the one I found. an owners manual would be nice


found this one in the old vault as well.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

That's everything. The rest of the knowledge you have to glean from these archives,herein.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

classiccat said:


> found this one in the old vault as well.



Purrrrrrrrfect!






Rooskie said:


> That's everything. The rest of the knowledge you have to glean from these archives,herein.


Step right up...


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

Seaweed said:


> I'm not sure of the year but the friction wheel in the early ones is a pia to change, with many steps. At some point (maybe someone can chime in) this was reconfigured and became a lot easier to change. Maybe '72'ish? Not a reason not to buy but just wanted to mention it.


I changed the friction disk on one of mine already. It's actually not bad at all. Theirs a few more steps required than other blowers, but overall it still wasn't bad. It looks more intimidating than it is. If you pull up one of the earlier operators manuals from 1965, their are step by step instrictions on how to do it. I followed that and it was no problem at all. I had mine changed out and put back on in about an hour. As I mentioned above in 1973 some changes were made to the chassis to update the safety system. I am not sure if the gearbox was changed at all internally on the 73" as I never had one, but if it was it would have occurred than, as that is when they made changes to the 10,000 series. No doubt, the gearbox was changed for the 924,000 series in 1975. Those had less steps.


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## Seaweed (Jan 18, 2016)

Dusty said:


> I changed the friction disk on one of mine already. It's actually not bad at all. Theirs a few more steps required than other blowers, but overall it still wasn't bad. It looks more intimidating than it is. If you pull up one of the earlier operators manuals from 1965, their are step by step instrictions on how to do it. I followed that and it was no problem at all. I had mine changed out and put back on in about an hour. As I mentioned above in 1973 some changes were made to the chassis to update the safety system. I am not sure if the gearbox was changed at all internally on the 73" as I never had one, but if it was it would have occurred than, as that is when they made changes to the 10,000 series. No doubt, the gearbox was changed for the 924,000 series in 1975. Those had less steps.


Thanks and good to know. I know I'll be facing it at some point and kind of dreading it.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Dusty said:


> I changed the friction disk on one of mine already. It's actually not bad at all. Theirs a few more steps required than other blowers, but overall it still wasn't bad. It looks more intimidating than it is. *If you pull up one of the earlier operators manuals from 1965, their are step by step instrictions on how to do it*. I followed that and it was no problem at all. I had mine changed out and put back on in about an hour. As I mentioned above in 1973 some changes were made to the chassis to update the safety system. I am not sure if the gearbox was changed at all internally on the 73" as I never had one, but if it was it would have occurred than, as that is when they made changes to the 10,000 series. No doubt, the gearbox was changed for the 924,000 series in 1975. Those had less steps.


That's great to hear @Dusty
Do you, by any chance, have a link to one of these manuals?
Thank you!


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

quexpress said:


> That's great to hear @Dusty
> Do you, by any chance, have a link to one of these manuals?
> Thank you!


Should begin on page 6...


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

tlshawks said:


> Should begin on page 6...


AWESOME!
Thanks a lot!


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## Aariens (12 mo ago)

tlshawks said:


> Welp...my two cents. I learned about snowblowers pretty much from scratch with a 10,000 series 910962. It was a BASKET CASE I inherited.
> 
> Just an FYI, a 910995 is the attachment model # (24" snow throw, early 70's). Those went on a LOT of blowers thru the years. The tractor (and therefore engine HP if original...as well as whether it has locking differential etc) will be maybe a 910962 (7hp), 910965 (5hp) etc...
> 
> ...


Really nice post. Very helpful to a newbie. I have a 10M4…the throttle is very tight, wants to stick in slow mode. When warmed up, it will loosen up and I can start. You think it just needs replaced? Or something else up? Thanks!


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Aariens said:


> Really nice post. Very helpful to a newbie. I have a 10M4…the throttle is very tight, wants to stick in slow mode. When warmed up, it will loosen up and I can start. You think it just needs replaced? Or something else up? Thanks!


Just guessing, but a sticky when cold throttle to me means maybe the "trapeze" (the lever assembly that is mounted between the intake manifold and carb, that the cable etc is mounted to) has some sort of greasy/rusty residue on it that as the machine warms up (I'm assuming you mean when the air temperature is warmer, not engine temperature), it loosens. But you can also look to see if the cable itself is kinked up or maybe rusty - or even the lever itself has issues.

To me, one would have to remove the carb cover box, then test the linkage with and without the cable attached. If detaching the cable makes the assembly move freely, then it's the cable/lever. If the assembly remains stiff/frozen, then it's the assembly itself (or even the carb).

You just sort of have to inspect and test every piece of the puzzle from one end to the other to determine which piece is gumming up the works so to speak.


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## Aariens (12 mo ago)

Thanks @tlshawks ! Yes air temperature, not engine temperature. The Cable doesn’t look rusty. There is just a lot of pressure when I try pushing the throttle fully open, and it wants to go back and rest about mid throttle. I will take a picture with the carb cover box off and send it here when I get some time. I do have some pics of the machine though and I’ll attach here.


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