# How do I connect this clutch cable?



## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

I have 210r for which I just purchased a new clutch cable. Old one popped and I'm unable to see how it attached to the assembly. 










I'm fine with the handle side but looking at photo, I routed it through hole on bottom right (circled) and then came up through back. Is that correct? I then push the assembly down and see the circled hole, which I suspect is where the new cable goes. However, for the life of me, I can't figure how to attach the cable. Is the cable z end supposed to come under and stick into the hole facing up (if so, what holds it in place), or am I supposed to approach from the top of the hole and stick the end into it from there? 

Either way, I can't seem to get the end into the hole at all so figure I must be doing something wrong. Would appreciate some guidance. 

Thanks!


----------



## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Well, I thought I had it. Rather than go in on the bottom left (which I realized later was where the metal plate fastened back on), I found a slot near the handle that I though was the right place. However, I think the cable must have then been rubbing against the axle as it unfortunately snapped after running the blower for only a minute. 

So at this point, I believe I've figured out how the end goes in the hole but I still need to figure out how the proper way to route cable. 

Thanks.


----------



## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Is there anyone that might be able to help on this? I've googled a bit and came across t this question on another site: 

http://www.justanswer.com/small-engine/4mojg-toro-210r-snowblower-cable-controling-blades.html

That person posted this photo:










However, I don't think that's a 210R. Here is a photo of my 210R and I don't have that little piece that the cable (14) is going into on the diagram (the thing below the circle). 










Apart from that, I can't find any diagrams of how this cable should be threaded. As mentioned, I did try simply going straight behind the black plate (where the connector is) but doing that, the cable rubs up against the axle of the third gear in picture and it snapped within a second. I can't figure out any other way.

I'd appreciate if anyone had some advice. 

Thanks.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello garimh. Sorry no one was able to respond to your Toro 210r question. I have the four cycle 421 model and it appears to use the same tensioner system as yours. I went out to the garage and took a few pictures and have a general idea of how the cable should be routed.

1-I stood the snow blower (Pic-1) vertical using a nylon strap for easier access to the guide block.
2-Remove belt cover.
3-Remove the idler arm spring (watch the front spring clip item 2 on parts list) it WILL fall out of place.
4-Remove the nut (item-5 on parts list) while holding the hex head bolt from inside the paddle housing. Watch the placement of the washers when removing the bolt.
Remove the Phillips head screw (Pic-4) to release the guide block (Pic-3). Each end of the guide block has tabs that the new cable has to be threaded through.
5-Reinstall the guide block and insert the z-end of the cable through the bottom side of the idler arm (Pic-5)
6-Reinstall the idler arm and spring making sure the washers are in the correct position.
7-Route the loose end of the cable through the hole in the shroud (Pic-2)
above the handle bar to the the bail spring\adjuster.

I hope this helps.


----------



## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Thanks Grunt. I appreciate your taking the time to take those photos and help me out. I realized earlier today that I'm missing the guide block, which is why I couldn't figure this out. A walk through my snow covered driveway turned up a mangled piece of it so I guess it came loose and was destroyed by the paddles. I'll try to pick up that part this week and will then turn to your directions. I actually thought it would simply be a matter of attaching the guide block with a screw and then threading the cable through but I see from your directions that it's a bit more involved than that. Hopefully I won't have any more problems. 

Thanks again.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

If you have nimble fingers and a set of needle nose pliers, you might be able to eliminate the idler arm removal.


----------

