# My new toy!



## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Ever since I have looked at my buddies 22000 series and researched on it to get repairs done, I’ve decided to keep and eye and ear out for an older model. 
Well happy Birthday to me! Today picked up this 10000 series 7hp she runs good has a few issues like no spark plug boot, missing a few screws, but runs pretty good for being 49-50 years old, actually is in better shape than I am!! 😊 Will do the usual oil changes, plug, new belt grease. But no more shoveling is a prayer answered. I read probably 400 threads and pages on this site about each series model and I think I got a good deal for a buck and a half. I’m sure I’ll have questions once I tinker with it, but starting 2021 with no more shovel is best birthday a guy could want!


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

anything that saves ones back and shoulders is always great good luck


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Great score!
Looks complete and in great condition for it's age. With a little maintenance and lovin' she should give you many years of back saving service.


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## noblower (Dec 29, 2020)

Nice...I just picked one up too...

but where's the snow?


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

I missed our big December snow of (10”), I know some of you are like 10” is a dusting but to us Steeler fans 10” (of snow) is a big event! I do believe that we will get enough in January then again in March (unfortunately) as by then I’m ready to bust out the motorcycle. Yes I will probably do the whole block!!


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

So, I was checking the Tecumseh manual, as I wanted to get the correct carb rebuild parts. It is the series 1. But the bowl has what looks to be a drain valve or something and that is not shown as replaceable part, but it leaks ever so slightly, yes I did turn gas off. If anyone has something and has rebuilt their’s I’d appreciate help in ordering.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

those are pretty common on a lot of older machines. a lot of the time people usually seal up that hole with gas resistant sealant or replace the float bowl with one that doesn't have the drain. i believe if you wanted you could fix it. there is video's on youtube but personally i feel like it would be better off without it. 1 less possibility of a leak.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Congrats and Happy Birthday @Preacherman !

The unit is in really nice shape...great find!


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> those are pretty common on a lot of older machines. a lot of the time people usually seal up that hole with gas resistant sealant or replace the float bowl with one that doesn't have the drain. i believe if you wanted you could fix it. there is video's on youtube but personally i feel like it would be better off without it. 1 less possibility of a leak.


Ok that makes sense, I’ll try to find a replacement bowl if not for sure will get sealed looks to be aluminum and I could remove it and weld a plug.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

you can usually find them on older lawn mowers if you are looking to try finding one for free. there is a lot of Tecumseh lawn mower engines out there still and they don't usually have a drain. people put them out for scrap or take them to the dump all the time.


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## PlOM (Nov 12, 2020)

If the bowl itself is in good shape, the drain valve assembly can be replaced. Tecumseh p/n 27136A .

E.g., Tecumseh 27136A Bowl Drain Assembly - Jacks Small Engines


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

PlOM said:


> If the bowl itself is in good shape, the drain valve assembly can be replaced. Tecumseh p/n 27136A .
> 
> E.g., Tecumseh 27136A Bowl Drain Assembly - Jacks Small Engines


I did find that , but would prefer without.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

What I found was Tecumseh P/N 831867 but I'd have one of the engine guys check me.






Amazon.com : Rotary 8926/3539 Float Bowl & Gasket Compatible with Tecumseh 631867, 631028 : Garden & Outdoor


Amazon.com : Rotary 8926/3539 Float Bowl & Gasket Compatible with Tecumseh 631867, 631028 : Garden & Outdoor



www.amazon.com




Remember the deep part goes under the float.  


.


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## peterk (Apr 30, 2014)

I've removed the valve and soldered the hole on several. They are steel. Free is good!


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

Preacherman said:


> Ever since I have looked at my buddies 22000 series and researched on it to get repairs done, I’ve decided to keep and eye and ear out for an older model.
> Well happy Birthday to me! Today picked up this 10000 series 7hp she runs good has a few issues like no spark plug boot, missing a few screws, but runs pretty good for being 49-50 years old, actually is in better shape than I am!! 😊 Will do the usual oil changes, plug, new belt grease. But no more shoveling is a prayer answered. I read probably 400 threads and pages on this site about each series model and I think I got a good deal for a buck and a half. I’m sure I’ll have questions once I tinker with it, but starting 2021 with no more shovel is best birthday a guy could want!
> View attachment 173071
> View attachment 173072
> ...


What a beautiful machine!!


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Ok, decided to dig into it a little since no snow forecasted for two weeks. This is what the cylinder, valves and head looked like when I popped it open. This piston aside from carbon buildup appears to be in good shape. I did see some scuff marks on the wall of cylinder valve side. I’ll attach pics I know pics are loved. I will get that all cleaned up before she gets back together. I think I will pull the cylinder off this spring and check the rod bearings. I have a feeling the routine oil changes were not made on this poor thing. She does run great . I should of checked compression before I busted her loose but oh well. If anyone has suggestions I’m all ears! Btw I use a brass wire brush to clean it all up. This was a two beer job.




































All cleaned up-


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Nice job and good for you to use a brass brush for the clean-up. Interesting to see those scratches on the cylinder wall....I wonder what caused them? Could apiece of carbon be hard enough to scratch that surface?


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

gsnod said:


> Nice job and good for you to use a brass brush for the clean-up. Interesting to see those scratches on the cylinder wall....I wonder what caused them? Could apiece of carbon be hard enough to scratch that surface?


I don’t think it’s carbon. When I cleaned the head, there was scrape marks on it as if someone scraped it clean so I’m not sure someone else was in here. I also cleaned a few casting blemishes up with my dremel between where it slopes towards the plug it was pretty rough there but now smooth transition. There is some pitting but I don’t believe that will hurt. I think I will check the valves clearance and lap them since I’m this far.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

those definitely seem like odd scratches in the cylinder. can you feel them if you try running a finger nail over them? otherwise it does look very clean in there like someone was in there already cleaning things up. would definitely expect to see a bit more carbon in there if no one has done any cleaning in the past.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> those definitely seem like odd scratches in the cylinder. can you feel them if you try running a finger nail over them? otherwise it does look very clean in there like someone was in there already cleaning things up. would definitely expect to see a bit more carbon in there if no one has done any cleaning in the past.


Good question! I cannot feel anything but have zero fingernails- haaaahaa. I drained the oil today it was nasty dirty black and some grit non metallic was at the bottom not sure what that was but Definely hasn’t been changed in a long time, it also stunk almost like gear oil. Weird.


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

You can see a ring mark thru scratches. I wonder if rings rusted to cylinder wall at some time and when broke free scratched cylinder


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

If it runs good, don't worry about the scratches. Yes, Carbon can cause that but you usually don't see that in four strokes. In chain saws, it's very common. 

I do agree that the dark ring at the bottom of the cylinder is probably from corrosion from sitting in the past. Again, if the engine runs, it is not an issue.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Even though this motor started after two or three pulls, didn’t smoke, and ran decent with auger engaged, it probably would of started to hiccup soon, as the valve clearances were intake .013 exhaust .015. This is why I normally service top ends on ever used piece of equipment I get , it may run but it will run much better with proper clearances, fresh rebuilt carb, new breather filter, new oil. Now I’m thinking of checking the points. I’m sure that hasn’t been done ever. It’s obvious this motor wasn’t taken care of properly. While the outside looked good for 50+ the internal maintenance was lacking. I’m afraid to look at her belly. But that will be next. I’m sure it will need a lube job, and a few adjustments, I know the clutch handle is super sloppy but works. The gear oil will get fresh too. We normally only get two storms a year that produce enough to blow in Southwest PA, so I know once I get it fully serviced she will last my lifetime.


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

Preacherman said:


> Even though this motor started after two or three pulls, didn’t smoke, and ran decent with auger engaged, it probably would of started to hiccup soon, as the valve clearances were intake .013 exhaust .015. This is why I normally service top ends on ever used piece of equipment I get , it may run but it will run much better with proper clearances, fresh rebuilt carb, new breather filter, new oil. Now I’m thinking of checking the points. I’m sure that hasn’t been done ever. It’s obvious this motor wasn’t taken care of properly. While the outside looked good for 50+ the internal maintenance was lacking. I’m afraid to look at her belly. But that will be next. I’m sure it will need a lube job, and a few adjustments, I know the clutch handle is super sloppy but works. The gear oil will get fresh too. We normally only get two storms a year that produce enough to blow in Southwest PA, so I know once I get it fully serviced she will last my lifetime.


You have to admit though, for a 50 year old engine, that wasn't bad. I hope my internals are doing that good.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Oh these motors are air cooled workhorses for sure! 
Pics of valves-I have the valves soaking in seafoam tonight then I’ll lap and check clearance


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Preacherman said:


> I don’t think it’s carbon. When I cleaned the head, there was scrape marks on it as if someone scraped it clean so I’m not sure someone else was in here. I also cleaned a few casting blemishes up with my dremel between where it slopes towards the plug it was pretty rough there but now smooth transition. There is some pitting but I don’t believe that will hurt. I think I will check the valves clearance and lap them since I’m this far.
> View attachment 173233


It's a good time to dress that head if you haven't already.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Valves lapped clearances at .010. Surfaces cleaned up and ready for assembly. Now if only my parts show up. 
So I decided while waiting for parts to arrive, I’d check out the belly. Looks all greased up good. I’m gonna attempt to adjust the clutch, it’s very sloppy, there is wear marks on the top of the frame where the rod protrudes, friction wheel has some wear and cracks but no chunks missing. The axle has play I’m not sure how much is too much? It’s about 2mm of wiggle.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

So when I tipped it on its side, I heard a click sound and now the left clutch is frozen, I can’t shift into any gear it’s stuck in reverse? And suggestions?

I was able to move the friction disk once I disconnected the linkage but it is not smooth, so I’ll have to clean and lube the hex shaft . But the clutch is not working at all it’s very loose. And the piece that is on the handle you squeeze is stuck in the squeezed position. I disconnected the linkage and tried to move it by hand but it only move up and doesn’t do anything. I made a video of what the issue is. My question once I get the shaft lubed and shifting smooth will that fix the clutch issue?


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

I have to be missing something obvious. This thing will not shift and the clutch stays fully compressed.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

Kinda hard to explain in a text, but you'll see it when you get in there. You will become familiar with throw out lever, neutral catch and ball joint if you keep this one. They have a lot of moving parts that count on the next one being able to move for the first one to work. The rod tucked way up in the top has a cotter pin and slid partially out will ease up some binding to see what you have going on.

Stuck Clutch, can't shift 1968 10M6d


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

oneboltshort said:


> Kinda hard to explain in a text, but you'll see it when you get in there. You will become familiar with throw out lever, neutral catch and ball joint if you keep this one. They have a lot of moving parts that count on the next one being able to move for the first one to work. The rod tucked way up in the top has a cotter pin and slid partially out will ease up some binding to see what you have going on.
> 
> Stuck Clutch, can't shift 1968 10M6d
> 
> View attachment 173365


So I am able to physically move the friction wheel up and down with a breaker bar when I have the shift linkage removed but it is not smooth operation. But the clutch will not operate at all. It’s weird it work fine before I flipped this thing on it’s side. I actually did find that post and read through it and Im thinking I need to remove the friction wheel assembly to completely clean and check that bearing and re grease everything. I prefer not to as it does look like a time consuming job, but maybe that is is my only option. I will replace the friction wheel if I do that! I will try what you suggest and get back. Thank you! Oh I plan to keep this for sure! I


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Finally had a chance to check out the drive system, first I pulled that rod back that (oneboltshort) said and the friction disk just fell off the threaded pulley shaft?? So I cleaned the disk and the wheel off-threaded the disk back on which wasn’t easy- this solved the problem. I also cleaned and lubed everything in there- Shifting is like butter now so smooth and easy, clutch works perfectly. I imagine I will have to perform the adjustment friction wheel adjustment. This machine also didn’t have a belly plate so I made one from 16g steel.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I believe that inspection pan slides in side channels, and bolts onto the frame, at least on the older models. Then clean, prime and paint the belly pan and throw on some XTrac tires, youll be in good shape.


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

On eBay search ariens bottom cover. 
You might find one
Some one on here might be able to steer you to correct cover 


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

oneacer said:


> I believe that inspection pan slides in side channels, and bolts onto the frame, at least on the older models. Then clean, prime and paint the belly pan and throw on some XTrac tires, youll be in good shape.


I wondered if that is how it was supposed to go I was concerned as that one gear is real close to it. Paint!! Oh I am not a skilled painter. I will probably just Bed liner coat it.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The bottom cover on my 10000 series has a raised area where the gear is located.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Ziggy is correct, the gear sits in a sump stamped into the pan. You could always make a cut out, then just make a sump and seal rivet it on.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Ziggy65 said:


> The bottom cover on my 10000 series has a has a raised area where the gear is located.
> 
> 
> View attachment 173525


 I’ll take it all! Just ship that right to me!😁


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

Ziggy65 said:


> The bottom cover on my 10000 series has a has a raised area where the gear is located.
> 
> 
> View attachment 173525


You have a small fortune in all those old Players cigarette tins. Those go from $8 - $25 a pop.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

kd8tzc said:


> You have a small fortune in all those old Players cigarette tins. Those go from $8 - $25 a pop.


Many years ago when I was in grade school, they were going to tear down the old 3 story school, which was about 100 years old. The 3rd floor had only been used for storage for many years. The teacher asked for volunteers to help clean out the 3rd floor. I found a box full of these old tins. I guess they had used them for storing kids crayons in, as some still had bits of crayons in them.
Majority were Players, but I have Turret and Black Cat ones as well.

I also found a box of comics and baseball and hockey cards, that I guess had been confiscated from students over the years. However I was not allowed to keep them, as they went to the annual school rummage sale.

It was a different time back then


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Preacherman said:


> Ever since I have looked at my buddies 22000 series and researched on it to get repairs done, I’ve decided to keep and eye and ear out for an older model.
> Well happy Birthday to me! Today picked up this 10000 series 7hp she runs good has a few issues like no spark plug boot, missing a few screws, but runs pretty good for being 49-50 years old, actually is in better shape than I am!! 😊 Will do the usual oil changes, plug, new belt grease. But no more shoveling is a prayer answered. I read probably 400 threads and pages on this site about each series model and I think I got a good deal for a buck and a half. I’m sure I’ll have questions once I tinker with it, but starting 2021 with no more shovel is best birthday a guy could want!
> View attachment 173071
> View attachment 173072
> ...


That's the exact one I have! Make sure the shear bolts are real shear bolts.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Preacherman said:


> Even though this motor started after two or three pulls, didn’t smoke, and ran decent with auger engaged, it probably would of started to hiccup soon, as the valve clearances were intake .013 exhaust .015. This is why I normally service top ends on ever used piece of equipment I get , it may run but it will run much better with proper clearances, fresh rebuilt carb, new breather filter, new oil. Now I’m thinking of checking the points. I’m sure that hasn’t been done ever. It’s obvious this motor wasn’t taken care of properly. While the outside looked good for 50+ the internal maintenance was lacking. I’m afraid to look at her belly. But that will be next. I’m sure it will need a lube job, and a few adjustments, I know the clutch handle is super sloppy but works. The gear oil will get fresh too. We normally only get two storms a year that produce enough to blow in Southwest PA, so I know once I get it fully serviced she will last my lifetime.


It will probably never snow in SW PA again!


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Rooskie said:


> It will probably never snow in SW PA again!


I expect a 8”er in March, hopefully not like 1993! I’m sure I seen grade 8 bolts in there! I will pick up a pack thanks for reminder.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

I brought mine home from CT after a field assignment and it didn't snow here for 2 years.


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## Jesse11B (Jan 27, 2020)

Rooskie said:


> I brought mine home from CT after a field assignment and it didn't snow here for 2 years.


Life sure isn’t fair sometimes. This week last year i das over 40” in the yard. With some higher drifts. Bought a blower, then had to wait about ten months for blowable snow.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Jesse11B said:


> Life sure isn’t fair sometimes. This week last year i das over 40” in the yard. With some higher drifts. Bought a blower, then had to wait about ten months for blowable snow.


It never fails.


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

Good for you for crafting that sheet metal under-cover. The good workmanship shows in the straight bend you were able to make. Normally, a Cornice brake or a box-and-pan brake would be needed for sheet metal forming. 

FYI, the service position I use for an Ariens 1000 series _Sno-Thro_ is to stand it up vertically on its _Sno-Thro_ attachment bucket with the entire machine leaned against a wall. The hand grips will be touching against the wall. Secure the machine with a rope so it doesn't accidently fall over! 

This position raises the tractor drive up to a more comfortable position for removing the under-cover and servicing the tractor drive. You can spin the wheels and see the friction wheel rotate. 



Preacherman said:


> This machine also didn’t have a belly plate so I made one from 16g steel.
> View attachment 173516


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

badbmwbrad said:


> Good for you for crafting that sheet metal under-cover. The good workmanship shows in the straight bend you were able to make. Normally, a Cornice brake or a box-and-pan brake would be needed for sheet metal forming.
> 
> FYI, the service position I use for an Ariens 1000 series _Sno-Thro_ is to stand it up vertically on its _Sno-Thro_ attachment bucket with the entire machine leaned against a wall. The hand grips will be touching against the wall. Secure the machine with a rope so it doesn't accidently fall over!
> 
> This position raises the tractor drive up to a more comfortable position for removing the under-cover and servicing the tractor drive. You can spin the wheels and see the friction wheel rotate.


I think I saw a belly plate for $20 on Ebay yesterday....


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Rooskie said:


> I think I saw a belly plate for $20 on Ebay yesterday....


Thanks, but I like to make things! I ran out of gas and had about 1/4” bead left of course! Oh well little grinding and done! Now I got a question about the Friction disk and wheel. I read the manual like 10 times and think I finally found the answer but want to run it past the more knowledgeable. I wanted to adjust the friction wheel on this but the manual says no adjustment is needed as it’s spring loaded. ( see second pic). As you know I found the friction disk unscrewed from the shaft ( my original problem) but is that disk suppose to be screwed all the way snug on the shaft?


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

If it runs correctly and everything looks tight and in order, then no, there is no adjustment to be made.
Put it back together.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

I’m thinking this $100 deal wasn’t such a deal. As I look at the impeller shaft there is no seal after the adjuster but, and according to the parts diagram there is one #20. Also looking closely at the helicon gears it did take some damage when the roll pin broke, I want to use it like this as I just don’t have $300 bucks for a new shaft and gear. *Do you think this will grenade? * This years snow fall is rare for us so maybe use it five times in 10 or so years.

*So those that have tore apart the shaft from the impeller any tips?* I’m having trouble getting that second roll pin out, it isn’t moving, been soaking for a week I even tried my acetylene torch heat it must be rusted in there, I knew I should of bought that 10 ton press last year.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Preacherman said:


> -








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Смотрите публикации, фото и другие материалы на Facebook.




www.facebook.com




You're in Ohio,right?
This has a pulley on the end, I needed a splined shaft.
Hope this helps.
My buddy has had mine since it sucked up a brick.
I happen to know the 14th is his birthday, so I have a reason to call.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Rooskie said:


> Для просмотра нужно войти или зарегистрироваться
> 
> 
> Смотрите публикации, фото и другие материалы на Facebook.
> ...


I’m in Pittsburgh my brother.


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