# 536.909800 Belt issues



## awg1983 (Oct 27, 2013)

I finally got around to getting new belts. I ordered the same ones as called for in the manual and on sears web site. I put them on today and adjusted everything i could find out to make more slack...but it doesnt seem to be enough. The auger turns all the time rather its engaged or not and if started in gear the thing will take off without you! So basically the clutch handle has turned useless. How do I adjust the belts so they arent so tight. Its like the motor or the lower pulleys need to go up or down in respect to their location. I used belts 49570 and 49581 both murray brand belts


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

I don't have a lot of time now and will poke around later but are the belts in the right spot? Are the switched by mistake? Idler pulleys on the outside of the belts?

Sounds silly but we have all made those king of goofs


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Hello again awg. Sorry to hear you are having belt problems again. I know this wont help matters, but I broke my what appeared to be oem auger belt during a storm. Ran to napa and got a generic 38 inch utility belt and it's been working fine. shrugs.


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## awg1983 (Oct 27, 2013)

Yes checked the belts they are in the correct spot and idlers on the outsde of the belts


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## awg1983 (Oct 27, 2013)

Ok today messed with it some more. To the point that I am literally out of ideas.
Pulled both belts off, sanded the pulleys smooth on the inside, was smooth before but went over them again. Put the belts back on, verified correct location with diagram. Adjusted the upper and lower belt guides. Checked the auger idler was adjust as far out as possible. Started it and same thing. Drive is turning and auger is turning like it is suppose to when running. i looked down when the engagement clutch lever is not engaged the idlers arent even touching the belts! To me it looks like the belts are too short or something. With the clutch handle unengaged i put it in gear and it takes off as if it was engaged. Any ideas or help? I hate to ditch these expensive oem belts.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

We determined before that ours are similar but different. I think my machine is a year or two older. My drive belt has no clutch. You have to select neutral with the friction disk.

Here is a photo of my auger belt with idler in a disengaged position. There is significant pressure applied with the two tools wedged between the belt and pulley. The best I can offer you is that this is enough slack that my auger does not rotate unless I engage the idler. 
When I replaced this with a generic NAPA belt back in November I did nothing but put it on. You can see the idler is set to max tension, I didn't adjust anything because auger on/off simply worked.
Again, this is just to give you the warm fuzzy that it's not a lack of slack in belt tension issue.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Also, I don't know exactly how much pressure is on my auger brake, but it's not much. I can easily lift it off the auger pulley with my fingertips. Even with the brake set I can easily reach in and turn the large auger pulley again with just fingertip pressure.
Here is what my brake pad looks like today. Not sure what it looked like 30 years ago.


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## awg1983 (Oct 27, 2013)

I think I have my auger issue fixed...at least on the last trial it was. I found another belt guide that needed adjusted. Now back to the drive belt. The way mine works is, or seems like it should...When i squeeze the handle it pulls an idler pulley in to tighten the drive belt to make the friction disk spin. However, with the old belt the disk didnt spin until i squeezed the lever. Now at this time, rather the lever is squeezed or not the belt spins and the friction disk spins even though the idler pulley which is suppose to engage it is not touching the belt. Therefore, if its in gear when i start it, it takes off driving away. 
It was nice before hand because when i let go of the lever while snow blowing the whole machine stopped instantly...that is gone now. Seems like either the book has the wrong part number, there is an adjustment im missing or the pulleys on the motor shaft arent original? The drive pulley is smaller than the auger pulley. I have the belt guides set to 1/16" away from the belts when engaged...however, that only seems to work on the auger because its a bigger pulley. almost like i need a belt guide specially for the drive to hold it in when disengaged.


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## awg1983 (Oct 27, 2013)




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## awg1983 (Oct 27, 2013)

Of course some of them are upside down...sorry


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

Wish I had more for you. That drive belt definitely looks too tight when disengaged. Hard to come up with something when I am not standing next to it.

I take it the idler pulleys cant be adjusted independently of each other?


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## awg1983 (Oct 27, 2013)

I cant find the adjustment on the drive belt idler...the auger yes can be adjusted. I am wondering if that is the wrong belt for it...i am thinking i am going to try to go get a parts store special 1/2" x 37 v belt and see what happens. the one pictured was the oddest belt i have ever seen...wasnt a v..more flat in my mind. it was half as thick in relation to the auger v belt. 
kinda see it in the pictures the difference in them


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## gusgt18 (Jan 18, 2014)

dbert said:


> Also, I don't know exactly how much pressure is on my auger brake, but it's not much. I can easily lift it off the auger pulley with my fingertips. Even with the brake set I can easily reach in and turn the large auger pulley again with just fingertip pressure.
> Here is what my brake pad looks like today. Not sure what it looked like 30 years ago.


Hello,

I just bought a similar machine. Same problems. The auger keeps turning. I am noticing that my brake is missing the spring. It is no longer available. Can you get a measurement of how long it is and/ or a picture where it attaches too?

Thanks,
Gus


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## awg1983 (Oct 27, 2013)

the spring on my brake connects near the bottom of the machine straight down from the lever...be on the left side about an inch up from the bottom. However, my machine is a little different than yours. Plus my brake is shot.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Gusgt18 - - I tried all the web sites I could think of and .... just no luck.

Tensioner spring, OE part number # 50906
substitution part number # 2992119

Might give these guys a try: Boston Lawnmower Company - New England's Premier Outdoor Power Equipment Dealer
I've had good luck tracking down NLA parts to my three stage with them.

You just need something that will pull the idler off the belt and not be so strong you break your fingers off trying to engage and hold it in.


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## gusgt18 (Jan 18, 2014)

Great. Thanks. The local hardware store has a decent selection of springs. I guess I will take the front end of and see what i can come up with.


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## Ivant2293 (Jan 25, 2015)

Hey guys, I have an old drift breaker the pulleys are really loose. I have no idea how to tighten them up again. Any help would be appreciated


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Ivant2293 said:


> Hey guys, I have an old drift breaker the pulleys are really loose. I have no idea how to tighten them up again. Any help would be appreciated


Check for a set screw, or missing set screw. Chances are, that it will be in line with the keyway.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Ivant 

The photo is a good touch but so would a model and serial number of your machine so we could look up a diagram.

It would also be more polite if you started your own thread on your problem in stead of trying to hijack someone elses, just sayin'.


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