# Sweet score



## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Found this on cl visiting my sister in PA. 60$ !! Runs great, I will sell my 10m6d just to cover the cost of the predator I put in it. I almost brought 75$ worth of parts for it!! 
This new one is CLEAN. I will add impellor kit. Cool to have nice original machine 
Rob


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

nice $60 find


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Congrats Rob711 -- that machine will treat you well next winter!


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Really nice. Good looking machine.


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Thanks everyone. Heres my plan.
I wanna put the axle/differential/thing so I can disengage one wheel from axle from my 10m6d to this machine. This is mod no 910002 if I learned right from this forum I think I can swap it over. I think it's a 71?
My 10m6d also has a metal belt cover, this in plastic, hope to swap them as well.
Then replace tractor drive bushings, belt, scraper,possibly armor skids. This also has a worm drive to move chute vs the gear sprocket set up, pros cons to this setup? Add impeller kit.
I also have a 110v electric start laying around I can throw on. But pullstarts easily. I never tried it but thinking of running sea foam through it as well. 
This should keep me safe/away from wife and 3 girlsin the garage a few hrs on weekends!


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

+1 Rob- very nice survivor!


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

On worm drive vs standard gears for the chute, the worm drive design cannot be "back driven". Set the chute's angle, and it will stay there, no matter how much snow is blasting out of the chute. 

My current Ariens has standard gears for aiming the chute, along with a tensioner to add friction to the system. My last Ariens had the worm-drive setup. 

The old, worm-drive Ariens would stay aiming exactly where I set it. The current one will sometimes rotate on its own, if I'm blowing a lot of heavy snow. To reduce that, I can add friction by adjusting the tensioner nut, but that makes it harder to rotate when I want to change directions. 

The advantage to the non-worm setup is that it's maybe 2 (?) turns of the crank to rotate through the whole range of motion. The worm-drive machine needed more turns of the crank, so it was slower to turn the chute around.


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## lee h (Jan 18, 2015)

Very, Very nice and at a great price.


Lee


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Thanks all, I will get better pics, and thanks red for the chute comparison.


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## rfsdave (Mar 9, 2015)

Wow !!!  40 years old, looks great !!! Wish I could run across something like that.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Very nice 6 hp 24".


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

RedOctobyr said:


> On worm drive vs standard gears for the chute, the worm drive design cannot be "back driven". Set the chute's angle, and it will stay there, no matter how much snow is blasting out of the chute.
> 
> My current Ariens has standard gears for aiming the chute, along with a tensioner to add friction to the system. My last Ariens had the worm-drive setup.
> 
> ...


It's funny because my experience has been somewhat the opposite. I've got two worm-drive machines and while they cannot be back driven, the crank turns so easily that its weight will cause the shaft to turn! It will only stay put when the crank is at the bottom of its rotation. On one I actually wrapped a bungee cord around the shaft to provide some friction and stop that problem. The worm-drive ones also require more turns of the crank to move the chute - they have really "low gearing".

On the other hand, when I had a gear-drive model, it always drove me nuts that the action was "backwards"... rotating the crank clockwise made the chute rotate counterclockwise.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Great score! Your plans for it sound great, look forward to seeing the results. That differntial swap is the best, I did on my '62 and it was like night and day, so much easier to move around with the differential.


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

So right Elaw about the direction thing, annoyed me as well. Ray I think I got my inspiration for axle swap from you, it was someone on here. 
I'm amazed how beat to **** my first machine was. I will replace the tractor bushings on that one then sell it. I'd like to get what I put into it 100$ for hf engine and 15 for bushings. Although if I wait till winter I think I could ask 250$ and take 2. This will make this new hobby easier on the wife. I also like old vws!! Anything to keep me in garage. Thanks again fellas. I will take pics during the axle swap and impellor kit install
Rob


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Sounds good Rob! If you can, holding off on selling until winter will definately bring you a much better price like you said. If I had more room I would love to a few flips myself. If you need and points on that diff swap, don't hesitate to ask...


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

ELaw said:


> It's funny because my experience has been somewhat the opposite. I've got two worm-drive machines and while they cannot be back driven, the crank turns so easily that its weight will cause the shaft to turn! It will only stay put when the crank is at the bottom of its rotation. On one I actually wrapped a bungee cord around the shaft to provide some friction and stop that problem. The worm-drive ones also require more turns of the crank to move the chute - they have really "low gearing".
> 
> On the other hand, when I had a gear-drive model, it always drove me nuts that the action was "backwards"... rotating the crank clockwise made the chute rotate counterclockwise.


You're right about the crank's weight turning the chute. I was forgetting about that. 

I had done much the same thing as you, I wrapped part of rubber bicycle inner tube around the chute crank rod and a support, then zip-tied it tight to add friction. That lets the crank stay right where I put it, even if it's up. 

I did this first on my worm-drive MTD, then on my worm-drive Ariens. With this free/$2 mod, I got a chute that would stay right where I aimed it, which is great. It was driving me nuts that I couldn't blow the snow straight ahead. 

I've had to re-learn the crank direction twice, I think, each time I bought a different machine. And yeah, it messed me up each time.


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

So today I swapped axles turns out they are different diameters so bushings and carrier(think that's the name, aluminum triangle deal) had to go with it. Love how simple mechanical this beast is, roll pins, keys, cotter pins. 
The clutch handle from machine I will sell has a simple pin/spring to hold clutch in. Also the end that attaches to machine is just a 90 degrees bend in the rod, with washers and cotter pin, no ball joint. I'll keep that. The set I will sell has Crome handles, keeper white. Hope to be able to drill a clean hole and steal the lock off the chrome ones. The white ones are in better condition, chrome not so much.
Oh the first time I repowered the one to sell I pounded out studs with a hammer, seemed wrong put worked perfectly. This time was different, ended up distorting the deck a bit, nothing I couldn't fix by pounding heck out of the underside with a piece of rebar on a cinder block..that sucked! It's not perfect but I'll live with it.
Pics to follow 
Rob


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Not super


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Hey Rob, looks great man. They are fun to work on aren't they? So simple yet durable, they were built to last for sure. I jusy wanted to pass along some info I learned when I was doing my axle swap. I wanted to use the original high speed bearings and bearing carriers, so I did some research and found a bearing that fit the differntial axle, Ariens part #05409300 or Stens #230-287. I wanted to keep it orig look with the carriers, plus I thought the sealed high speed bearing would hold up better than the triangle bronze bushing set up in the long run. Just an fyi, in case you want to play around some more in the future...


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Ray, are you saying I can use those bearings in place of the bronze bushings? If that's the case awesome! You said you wanted to keep the original hi speed bearings, mine was bushings. Looks like I'll be spending 50$ more on my 60$ machine. Between those, scraper bar, belt and tires my amazon cart is about 130$. Least I'm not spending it on hookers and blow!
Thanks Ray


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

IMHO - Rebuilding or restoring is difficult to justify if you only look at the purchase price but when you're starting with an old well built workhorse, dropping two, three or even four hundred dollars will often equal going out and spending 1,000 to 1,500 or more on the same quality new machine.


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Couldnt agree more, this could be the last blower I own. Until I find something else to take apart! Thanks fellas


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Rob, in 62 (up to 64 I think) they used a sealed high speed bearing, with a flange (carrier) on each of the tractor housing to support the bearing on the axles. How old are your tractor bodies? I may have got ahead of myself if you have those triangle carriers with the bronze bushings on both your blowers. They look like this:


They used them on the auger, impeller, and the axles on the old machines. I may have a few sets of the flanges if it's something you wanted to do, you would just need the bearings then. No charge, just to postage, let me know and I'll check for you.


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Thanks for the offer ray. Both machines have the triangle carriers. The blower has one of those round flanges for the blower bearing. I think I will just replace the bronze bushings. They lasted 40 yrs. I'm good with that!


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## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

Nice find!


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Started cleaning up the buckets. Had them both welded up a bit. My garage looked like a snowblower chop shop! Still torn on what type of drive to use on my ultimate snowblower. As I've been calling it.


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