# I screwed up my old Craftsman Snow Blower...



## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

Hey all,

I was the proud owner of a new to me Craftsman 536.90510 a couple days ago, but it wasn't throwing snow (more pushing it out the chute) and It didn't really rev up when I moved the throttle.

Today I took it apart and replaced the VERY worn auger drive belt and now it throws snow like a CHAMP... when it runs.

I messed around with the throttle and governor trying to get it to idle up and it's working... but now it won't stay running.

It fired right up second pull with no primer, but after a minute it started popping. Not loudly or nasty, but enough that I could hear it. Eventually I got into some high drifts, and it died. It won't stay running unless i'm at half choke, and eventually it still dies. After running 5-10 minutes it still won't start without the choke, and it doesn't want to start then. When it does start, I get black smoke from the exhaust.

I'm running 93 Octane Ethanol Free gas.

Also, I need to know how to adjust the drive linkage. There is a bolt near the base of the snowblower that goes through the linkage that I had to take apart to get the rear plate off (it bent backwards because the P.O. took the screws out) Now it won't go into neutral. It works fine in reverse and first though (haven't tried the other forward gears but they worked when I got it)

Finally, The auger housing with the worm gears in it. Does it take 30wt Non detergent or what? It has a two plugs on it like a fill and a level plug.

Thank you!!!


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

I would guess that the governor and throttle were set correctly before you messed with them and that the real problem is just a carb that needs cleaning


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

Yup. MH


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

detdrbuzzard said:


> I would guess that the governor and throttle were set correctly before you messed with them and that the real problem is just a carb that needs cleaning


Yeah but I didn't move them much at all... Should I try spraying carb cleaner in it while its running or do you think I probably need an overhaul?

Any ideas on the drive linkage?


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

chillman88 said:


> Yeah but I didn't move them much at all... Should I try spraying carb cleaner in it while its running or do you think I probably need an overhaul?
> 
> Any ideas on the drive linkage?


do an overhaul and put the gov and throttle back, it doesn't take much to over rev these motors and blow it up. you need to get it running correctly before addressing the drive, I can't help much with that


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

Well, I put the governor back where it was and I still can't get her to fire. She tries to catch momentarily but just won't quite fire. She's getting spark and fuel. I can't afford a carb or rebuild kit yet (recent major vehicle repairs used it all!)

I find it hard to believe the carb went bad just like that. She ran fine Wednesday night when I picked her up. I'll pull the plug and verify the gap and clean it up.

The plug was wet when I pulled it, but I'm pretty sure I flooded it trying to start it. I was screwing around with it for an hour. The recoil won't retract all the way now, but when I manually retract it, it makes no difference in starting.


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

I also think the resistance from the drive linkage being wrong is putting extra strain on the motor, not helping the no start issue.


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## suspicionofignorance2 (Jan 26, 2014)

yes wet plug will not fire...But is it wet from your attempts to start, or from a leaking needle seat flooding...Have you removed the bolt from carb bowl...? Quick clean of the tiny hole, reinstall and notice deep section of bowl under float...and keep gasket up on carb body while positioning...Dry the plug and try again...Good luck.!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

In the auger gear drive it's usually a 80-90 weight gear oil.


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

suspicionofignorance2 said:


> yes wet plug will not fire...But is it wet from your attempts to start, or from a leaking needle seat flooding...Have you removed the bolt from carb bowl...? Quick clean of the tiny hole, reinstall and notice deep section of bowl under float...and keep gasket up on carb body while positioning...Dry the plug and try again...Good luck.!


I'll try that tomorrow. Plug was dry when I first pulled it though, I think it's wet from trying to start.



The little spring thingy on the bottom left of this picture, what is it? is it a drain?










I bumped that and some fuel came out, just wanted to make sure it's supposed to.




Kiss4aFrog said:


> In the auger gear drive it's usually a 80-90 weight gear oil.


Hmm... That's what I thought, but I read 30wt somewhere. I've got some 80-90 sitting around because I have to put a new rear in my truck  I'll use it then thanks!


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## rnaude241 (Nov 24, 2013)

Yes that's a fuel drain for the older style carbs.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

Yes, that's the drain. Instead of a full carb rebuid, you can start by cleaning the bowl and main jet.

1. turn off the fuel (fuel cut off)
2. drain the carb bowl
3. remove the bolt from the bowl
4. remove the bowl
5. clean the inside of the bowl.
6. remove the screw from the jet
7. clean the jet (there are 2 holes on the side, one large, and one very very tiny)
8. reinstall screw on jet. screw in all the way, then back off 1.5 turns
9. reinstall bowl and jet onto carb
10. turn fuel cutoff back on, prime, start


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

Well it's definitely getting fuel. I've been messing with it for about a half hour. I got the drive linkage right now. 

Pulled the bowl off and sprayed around in there, didn't do a deep cleaning and pull stuff apart.

I put it back together and pulled and pulled. It kept trying to fire but eventually did 'fire'. Backfire through the carb. Fuel was coming out the air intake. Flames did too for a second. I'm pretty sure it flooded out.

I'm seriously considering a predator repower. $20 for a carb or $100 for a whole engine. Guy at work swears by his harbor freight motor, not at it.

I haven't fiddled with the idle setting. Is it possible my running 93 octane makes it too rich?


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

From what I can make out, the engine model is #143-626292


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Octane won't affect mixture.

But one thing to remember, with higher octane fuel it's slightly harder to start. Higher octane fuel suppresses pre ignition but it also suppresses regular ignition to a small degree.


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Octane won't affect mixture.


Well that's what I figured, but I was hoping for a simple fix. For all I know I might have broken the key that holds the timing (assuming these are like the Briggs motors) when I ran it last time. I know the timing being wrong would cause pops and backfires.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

When you push that spring thingy fuel should come out......that tells you there is fuel in the bowl....as it should be.

I would remove the carb and do a complete cleaning by soaking in carb cleaner....best way


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

RoyP said:


> When you push that spring thingy fuel should come out......that tells you there is fuel in the bowl....as it should be.
> 
> I would remove the carb and do a complete cleaning by soaking in carb cleaner....best way


Yep, But I can't justify cleaning and rebuilding the carb since a new one is $20 on amazon.

I'm not quite sure replacing the carb is justifiable since the recoil isn't "recoiling" all the way. That sounds like $30-40 right there... If I wasn't broke right now I'd probably have it running already! 

Life's a bear!


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## suspicionofignorance2 (Jan 26, 2014)

Did the recoil pull "kick back' sometimes when you were able to do a full pull? If so, and realizing the backfire you see....I would definitely suspect the flywheel key is partially sheered..! And most likely your only problem...Fairly easy job...


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

suspicionofignorance2 said:


> Did the recoil pull "kick back' sometimes when you were able to do a full pull? If so, and realizing the backfire you see....I would definitely suspect the flywheel key is partially sheered..! And most likely your only problem...Fairly easy job...


If by kick back you mean stop pulling and knock me on my rear then yes haha. It kinda hurts when you're pulling and all the sudden the cord says NOPE!  

I'm considering trying it, but the problem I run into is the recoil is held on by PHILIPS HEAD screws, and they are seized tight. If I remember tomorrow I'll hit them with some penetrant and see what I come up with this weekend. If I get time... I have to replace the rear axle in my truck Saturday! 

Don't they make a semi-universal spring kit for these recoil starters? I'm thinking the spring is just weak from all the years of pulling on it. It goes back about halfway. I can manually rewind it the remainder if I reach behind the cover though.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

The recoil spring likely slipped and you lost a turn or two. Doneboy has a trick to add wraps that puts more tension in the recoil spring; he melts a notch into the plastic that allows him to rotate the spool without removing the rope...pretty slick.

If you have an impact driver (not to be confused with an impact wrench), get a snug-fitting phillips bit, it allows you to put pressure on the bit while the tool walks out the fastener.

If you are backfiring through the intake, it could be a sheared key as the other guys have mentioned. If you find that the flywheel key is intact, I would start looking into a valve issue (clearance, unseated spring, etc.). Pretty simple stuff compared to swappin' truck axles!!!!


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

classiccat said:


> The recoil spring likely slipped and you lost a turn or two. Doneboy has a trick to add wraps that puts more tension in the recoil spring; he melts a notch into the plastic that allows him to rotate the spool without removing the rope...pretty slick.


Hmm... That might be worth looking into!



classiccat said:


> If you have an impact driver (not to be confused with an impact wrench), get a snug-fitting phillips bit, it allows you to put pressure on the bit while the tool walks out the fastener.


I actually though of that this morning in the shower, we have one at work that I think I can borrow. I'm thinking I'd still better hit them with some penetrant 



classiccat said:


> Pretty simple stuff compared to swappin' truck axles!!!!


Aww c'mon, its only 4 bolts, 8 nuts, and a parking brake cable!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

chillman88 said:


> Hmm... That might be worth looking into!
> 
> I actually though of that this morning in the shower, we have one at work that I think I can borrow. I'm thinking I'd still better hit them with some penetrant
> 
> Aww c'mon, its only 4 bolts, 8 nuts, and a parking brake cable!


Yep, definitely some penetrating oil!

The crankcase breather (valve cover) is only 2 bolts  (_the head is another 8, the carb is another 2 & the muffler is another 2...but who's counting_ )

Here's that doneboy vid:


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

For removing the flywheel to check the key, I had good luck with using an impact wrench (not to be confused with an impact driver  ) to remove the flywheel nuts. They spun right off, without resorting to risky tricks to secure the flywheel if using a normal wrench, like sticking a crowbar into the cooling fins. 

Popping the flywheel itself loose was admittedly still a bit risky. I put a crowbar under the flywheel, bracing it against a strong-looking area of the engine block (not just in the middle of a big flat area, for instance). Applied a bit of pressure to push the flywheel away from the block, then hit the end of the crankshaft with a brass- or plastic-faced mallet. That popped it off the taper. But this must be done with some care; you're stressing the crankcase with the crowbar when hitting the crankshaft. A flywheel puller would be much safer. But I didn't have one. 

You can also thread the flywheel nut back onto the crankshaft, leaving the nut sticking just above the end of the crankshaft, so that you're hitting the nut, and reducing the risk of damaging the end of the crankshaft's threads. 

I had a recoil starter that was improved somewhat by spraying a little oil on the recoil spring, as I recall. I think it had gotten somewhat sticky over time. If yours hasn't actually slipped, that might be something to try, if you could do it without opening it up completely.


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## chillman88 (Feb 14, 2015)

Well I haven't started it yet or looked at it since thursday, but I'm wondering if the starter is bolted to the block, or just to a metal cover. If it's just a cover I might get lucky and not have to unbolt the starter if the whole cover comes off. I've just got too much on my plate this weekend!

I started screwing around with the brakes on my truck (wanted to have them done a work before I got the axle home in the cold) but I'm missing parts in the hardware kits so... I get to do MORE running around!



RedOctobyr said:


> For removing the flywheel to check the key, I had good luck with using an impact wrench (not to be confused with an impact driver  ) to remove the flywheel nuts. They spun right off, without resorting to risky tricks to secure the flywheel if using a normal wrench, like sticking a crowbar into the cooling fins.


Oh I would never do that... or use a big screwdriver... I might break 2 or 3 fins off  not that I'd know of course 

But that was my lawnmower a couple years ago. More youngerer and more stupiderer


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## DANMAN (Feb 15, 2015)

chillman88 said:


> Well, I put the governor back where it was and I still can't get her to fire. She tries to catch momentarily but just won't quite fire. She's getting spark and fuel. I can't afford a carb or rebuild kit yet (recent major vehicle repairs used it all!)
> 
> I find it hard to believe the carb went bad just like that. She ran fine Wednesday night when I picked her up. I'll pull the plug and verify the gap and clean it up.
> 
> The plug was wet when I pulled it, but I'm pretty sure I flooded it trying to start it. I was screwing around with it for an hour. The recoil won't retract all the way now, but when I manually retract it, it makes no difference in starting.


Carb rebuild kits ten bucks on eBay


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## KennyW in CT (Feb 24, 2015)

Had that issue on a craftsman / tecumseh snow king 5hp thrower a few weeks ago. Turned out the intake valve had no lash due to years of pounding on the seat. It was hanging open ever so slightly, therefore hard to start and no power when it did start due to lack of compression. Ground the valve stem, quick lap and she runs better than new according to my happy customer. A leak down test showed air always coming out the intake (carb) except when the exhaust valve was open.


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