# Correct Axle Bushing For 1971 Ariens Sno Thro



## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Hi guys, 
I am in the process of changing my axle bushings. 
In my parts catalog, they list (two) different bushings. A reference number (55) for 7H.P. only, 55030 or a reference number (104) 55039 I guess for non 7 H.P.? 
My machine is a Sno Thro model: 910995 with serial 059091. Tractor: 910962 with serial 037197. 
I had the 7 H.P up until I repowered in 2011. 

What is the difference between the two bushings? 

Thanks, Kielbasa


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Size matters as much as we hate to hear it. Long story short, what's the axle spec out at? Can cheap out any bushing that fits around the axle and goes in the tractor body.
I think the original part number is what I'd go with.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Since we're looking for the wheel axle bushings the "Tractors" numbers are the ones we need.

On Ariens PartsRadar it specs 05503000 (Used only on models 910962,910954 & 910942). 55030 is the old number.

Shopping for 05503000 - - > https://www.google.com/search?sclient=psy-ab&site=&source=hp&btnG=Search&q=05503000


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Short answer from a quick look at both part numbers: 55030 is for a 7/8" axle and 55039 is for a 3/4" axle.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

When I went over to the dealer, I told him the machine I had. When I got home, they were the incorrect bushing. I think he gave me a 5503(5). They were way bigger than the shaft. I went back the next day and got the 55030. 

The job has gone smoothly. Having the correct punches is the whole job. No roll pins were rusted in. I guess giving them a little shot of oil or WD-40 for all these years paid off. 

I figure the bushings were about half worn and were the originals. I can not complain after 45 years of service. 

I am at the point where I am ready to reassemble everything, but I wanted to look around and trouble shoot. So I checked out the friction disc. There is more rubber on the original than on the spare replacement disc I bought about three years ago. So that is not getting changed. I did call the dealer to ask what that job would cost. I was told it's an $80 labor bill charge and which happens to be the most difficult disc to change.

The other thing that I noticed was... that the sprocket above the differential assembly moves/slides about 1/8". Should it? I do not see any kind of pin that is supposed to keep them from sliding. In the parts manual I see two bushings in the illustration, but it looks a bit different than how my machine is set up. The 2" bolt that holds it in place seems like it can be taken out pretty easily, but before I even start anything, I'd figure I'd post this and ask.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The 55035 bushings are for a 1" shaft. Those are normally used for the auger shaft on the sides of the bucket.

My guess is the sprocket is just worn. You could probably shim it.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Does anyone know if that top left gear and the sprocket to the right with the chain it is supposed to have any side to side movement? I am getting about 1/8" (strong) of side to side movement. I did notice about 4 light rub marks on the right side of the differential gear which I would guess was caused by the chain. I am not getting any up and down movement, just side to side.


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## ctdave (Sep 11, 2015)

Kielbasa said:


> Does anyone know if that top left gear and the sprocket to the right with the chain it is supposed to have any side to side movement? I am getting about 1/8" (strong) of side to side movement. I did notice about 4 light rub marks on the right side of the differential gear which I would guess was caused by the chain. I am not getting any up and down movement, just side to side.


yes .there should be some play side to side. 1/8 " or so is about right.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Just an update. The bushings are in and I left the sprocket gear alone. I did how ever... add a thin spacer to the right side of the shaft. It filled in the slop okay. I think just enough. It is all back together now. A little touch up in the impeller area and I will be all set for the winter season. Hopefully I will not have to use her. :hope:


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## stromr (Jul 20, 2016)

"Hopefully I will not have to use her. :hope:"

That's no fun!!!

PS: your avatar is making me hungry! add some perogies and sauerkraut, couple of beers to wash it down, we're talkin' good eats!!!


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Kielbasa said:


> A little touch up in the impeller area and I will be all set for the winter season. _*Hopefully I will not have to use her*_. :hope:


You're kidding right.....??? :snowing::blush::blush:


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

:icon-cheers:



stromr said:


> "Hopefully I will not have to use her. :hope:"
> 
> That's no fun!!!
> 
> PS: your avatar is making me hungry! add some perogies and sauerkraut, couple of beers to wash it down, we're talkin' good eats!!!


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## coopa (Apr 2, 2017)

Kielbasa said:


> Just an update. The bushings are in and I left the sprocket gear alone. I did how ever... add a thin spacer to the right side of the shaft. It filled in the slop okay. I think just enough. It is all back together now. A little touch up in the impeller area and I will be all set for the winter season. Hopefully I will not have to use her. :hope:


I just did this job today. There was a washer that went on the axle before replacing the roll pin. That prevents side to side sloppiness. On the right side the 10375 knob and its pin snugged up the whole axle. Now, on to the friction disk.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

there are 2 possible bushings, the smaller is for all 10000 series axles WITHOUT a differential, the larger ones are for all 10000 series machines with a differential


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