# craftsman 8hp snowblower stalls when choke is off



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

i just bought this snowblower:model c950-52477-5
i took the jet off under the float bowl, the smallest hole on the jet was clogged i cleaned it with carb cleaner and poked it with a needle. but when i went to put the bowl back on it doesnt hold the fuel, it starts to leak out.... does it matter which way the bowl goes cause i noticed one side of the bowl is deeper than the other? i put the shallow part inline with the hinge side of the float. why would it leak on me now tho i guess i need a new gasket?

also whats this wire hanging seems an old feature to start?
also where do i find the model of the motor?







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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to SBF wantboost. You are correct, the shallow side is aligned with the float hinge pin. The deep side allows the float to drop and allow more gas to enter the bowl during engine loading. Purchase Tecumseh part number 631021b and replace the leaking gaskets and inlet needle valve seat after a thorough carb cleaning per this link. Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a

The yellow wire is a kill wire that goes from the stop switch (missing in your photo) to either the carb linkage, ignition coil, or ground. If it has a ring terminal on the loose end, it would go under a screw on the motor. If a flat blade terminal, it would go to the carb linkage or ignition coil.

The engine model number is stamped into the top of the recoil housing near the spark plug between the two mounting screws. Look for a H80, HM80, HSSK80 or something similar. Here is a link to the service manual.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf

Let us know if we can be of more help. Good luck.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

ALOHA to the forms.. my man GRUNT knows his stuff..997


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

So the inlet valve needle is the one in the bowl that has a screw and spring? Different from the float needle? 
So either that inlet valve needle is leaking fuel or the float is not stopping? 
Can I test the float by pushing up with the bowl open to see if the fuel stops??

Sat if I had a new bowl gasket and the inlet needle which I believe is the screw with the spring in the bowl was leaking would thr gasket around the bowl be enough to stop the fuel leak?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

It could be leaking from three different areas. That is why I suggested the repair kit (631021b). It has the rubber bowl gasket, fiber high speed needle gasket (screw on bottom of the bowl) and a new needle valve and seat. The needle valve "attached" to the float pushes against a rubber seat inside of the carb and will overfill the bowl (causing leaks\flooding of the engine\safety issue) if not sealing correctly. This engine is old enough that every rubber part, including the fuel line, is probably dried out and stiff from contact with gasoline all these years. A fuel shut off valve should be added between the gas tank and carb as a safety measure if it doesn't already have one.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

i finally got around to this. i put all the gaskets on that u saidto put, when i goto prime it it looks like fuel is coming out from the choke? so maybe this is where it was leaking from before and i thought it was the bowl gasket... why from the choke tho?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

It is normal for fuel to leak out of the choke when you prime it. The primer pushes air into the bowl. That extra air pushes fuel up through the main jet and into the air intake of the carb. That fuel has no where to go and the choke is the lowest point on the carb so gravity pulls it down.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

It's coming out the choke and down the bowl that's normal?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Yes, if you pull the cover off the carb and open the choke and look down in the carb when you push the primer you will see the fuel squirt up into the carb and then you will understand why it drips out of the choke.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

I left the fuel shutoff on and without pressing the primer bulb fuel is just coming out on its own and dripping all over the floor...


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

wantboost said:


> I left the fuel shutoff on and without pressing the primer bulb fuel is just coming out on its own and dripping all over the floor...


Sounds like the float is filling with gas and sinking or the needle and seat are not sealing.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Just a thought as I had leaking gas on my 5 hp Craftsman and it was this fitting it had a crack in it. By any chance you have the plastic fitting? If so check it real good.

Click to make larger.










I had a thread on it here, http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/craftsman-snowblowers/1550-plastic-gas-fitting-replacement.html


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

wantboost said:


> I left the fuel shutoff on and without pressing the primer bulb fuel is just coming out on its own and dripping all over the floor...


 The needle valve float assembly is not shutting off the gas when the bowl is full. Either the needle valve is not seating properly or the float may have a hole in it and filling with gas not allowing it to rise up to shut the fuel off. take to float bowl off and see if the fuel stops when you lift the float up. If so you either have a leaking float or the float is out of adjustment. Take the float off and shake it and listen to hear any fuel sloshing around inside. If so replace the float.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Was the carb on your workbench or attached to the motor when you replaced the gaskets? Removing it from the engine would be best for proper cleaning and reassembly. Make sure you take pictures of the throttle and governor linkage for later installation.

Figure # 7 shows the CORRECT needle clip installation. Installing it in the WRONG orientation could cause the needle valve to stay unseated and cause flooding.

Figure # 8 shows that the seal side with the ring goes into the carb face down.

Figure # 15 shows the atmospheric vent which must be clean and could also cause flooding if blocked.


http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_632107.asp


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

The float has bit of fluid in it.
Im puzzled cause it wasn't leaking gas before i took everything apart. 
Anyway im gonna get a new float and see how it goes, should i get plastic or metal one? 
when i took everything apart there was no dampening spring is it needed?
I havent cleaned #15 yet. What do i use carb cleaner and or a pin?
The carb is removed from the engine currently.
thx!!!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I would get the brass float if that is what is in there now.

The dampening spring is usually installed on tillers, go karts or any machine subjected to bouncing. Not really needed on a snow blower.

Pull a strand out of a wire brush and use that and carb or brake clean to clear the hole. A thin sewing needle would work also.

If your float has gas in it, that is "probably" the reason the carb is leaking gas.


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

wantboost said:


> The float has bit of fluid in it.
> Im puzzled cause it wasn't leaking gas before i took everything apart.


The needle was probably stuck closed before you disturbed it.



wantboost said:


> Anyway im gonna get a new float and see how it goes, should i get plastic or metal one?


Plastic, the brass ones are no longer available from Tecumseh (I believe Oregon still makes them though) and the plastic ones work better anyway.



wantboost said:


> when i took everything apart there was no dampening spring is it needed?


If there was none there you don't need it. Some had them, some didn't.



wantboost said:


> I havent cleaned #15 yet. What do i use carb cleaner and or a pin?


Both. The old clip for holding the needle to the float works well as a pin. I've never really had issues with that vent though. Normally the trouble is in figures 10 and 11.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

it would run it choke tho so how could need be stuck? float had just a tiny bit of fluid in it u think it could make that much of a difference?


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

wantboost said:


> float had just a tiny bit of fluid in it u think it could make that much of a difference?


If it's got any gas or water in it it's leaking and needs to be replaced.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I have read of people brazing or soldering them, but you have to be careful not to make them too heavy and you have to know where the hole is and you also have to get it empty. A lot of work for the little bit of money saved.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

don't even think about it, change out the float I have used both brass and plastic and both work fine.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

ok thx i ll be working on it on the weekend... also i was wondering do i need a inline fuel filter?


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

i would put an filter in line as well as a fuel shutoff it you don't have one.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

does this needle look loose or this how the sit, and does it matter if its squared off with the float tab ?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

They sit loose like that, and no it doesn't matter if the square part is flat with the float. The pointy side of the clip is suppose to face the choke though. and the flat place on the bowl is suppose to line up with the pin that holds the float on.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

im getting closer on this stupid snowblower lol 

now when i turn on fuel it doesnt come pouring out of choke like before, but it is coming out when i press the choke?

i did is a sewing needle to clean atmosphere hole. and replaced the float.

when i looked in the seat hole when i replaced it i saw some metal there like the hole is half blocked not sure if thats normal



here's a pic does emultion tube look normal and the seat passage ok?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The seat hole is probably fine. The hole in the seat is very small to begin with so I don't see that metal as a problem.

When you say gas only comes out now when you push the choke do you mean primer? It is normal for the gas to drip from the choke when you prime it.

If you look in the choke when priming it you will see all the primer does is push fuel up the emulsion tube. That fuel has no where to go but out of the choke unless the engine is running.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

ok thankyou i didnt know that is normal. 

well i got it started and running. but with choke on it will stall out eventually if i dont move it to off right away. i can shut the motor off by just putting it to choke,...

when its running with the choke off i can see linkages oscillating is that normal?

looks like a 3 series carb: i did the following settings
main jet 1.5 turns 
idle mixture 1 turn
idle speed i haven't touched yet what should that be at to start with

also when i pull the cord, it recoils back sometimes really hard pretty much takes it out of my hand.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

An engine that runs well will die if you leave the choke on. That is good.

The linkage issue is what most refer to as hunting or surging. Some engines do that until you put a load on it. It can be an adjustment setting though.

The idle speed should be like 2200 for idle and 3600 full throttle.

Kickback can be timing or it could just be the fuel isn't adjusted properly yet.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

It dosen't look like the rubber seat for the needle valve is in the hole at the top of your picture. Look at the PM I just sent you.

Having the starter rope pulled out of your hand is normally associated with lawn mowers that hit something solid and sheared the flywheel key which changes the ignition timing. Rare, but not impossible on a snow blower motor.

While the engine is idleing, turn the low speed screw (on side of carb) in or out a quarter turn at a time to get the engine running as smooth as possible. Raise the engine to full throttle and adjust the high speed needle (on the bottom of the float bowl) in or out a quarter turn at a time until there is no sputtering and engine runs smoothly.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

I think those have a rubber tipped needle, so their is no rubber seat.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Motor City said:


> I think those have a rubber tipped needle, so their is no rubber seat.


its does have rubber seat i removed it to show u guys the hole


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Grunt said:


> It dosen't look like the rubber seat for the needle valve is in the hole at the top of your picture. Look at the PM I just sent you.
> 
> Having the starter rope pulled out of your hand is normally associated with lawn mowers that hit something solid and sheared the flywheel key which changes the ignition timing. Rare, but not impossible on a snow blower motor.
> 
> While the engine is idleing, turn the low speed screw (on side of carb) in or out a quarter turn at a time to get the engine running as smooth as possible. Raise the engine to full throttle and adjust the high speed needle (on the bottom of the float bowl) in or out a quarter turn at a time until there is no sputtering and engine runs smoothly.


i hope the fuel fixes the coil issue..
im getting different opinions some say to adjust main jet first then idle. or does it matter?
also what idle are u refering to i have 2 at the side of my carb. idle speed and idle mixture.(series 3 carb)
\also look at my linkage spot, some places on the internet say it should be one more hole to the right of where i have it 
sorry i just got this snowblower


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

wantboost said:


> also what idle are u refering to i have 2 at the side of my carb. idle speed and idle mixture.


The one just above the float bowl is the low speed mixture screw. The one in your picture is the idle SPEED screw which appears to be screwed in way to far and will\could cause a very high idle speed if everything in the carb is functioning as it should.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

in the pic i was asking where the linkage should be


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Grunt said:


> The one just above the float bowl is the low speed mixture screw. The one in your picture is the idle SPEED screw which appears to be screwed in way to far and will\could cause a very high idle speed if everything in the carb is functioning as it should.


whats the factory setting for the idle speed screw?
also please help me with the linkage location


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Look closely at the holes, the correct one should show some wear indicating where the linkage should go. It LOOKS like it is in the correct hole. I think Shryp said low speed (idle) is around 2200 rpms. Do you have a tachometer to set the idle and high limits? These engines have a tendency to grenade if over revved. High limit is 3600 rpms, I would set it around 3400 rpms to be safe with an older machine like yours.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

No I don't have a tach. To me the hole beside it looks more worn. Is the a factory setting for how many turns idle should be at? I could only find mixture and high speed jets


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

The idle screw is turned to obtain the 2200 rpms at idle, not by number of turns of the screw. The mixture screw settings are ONLY starting points for operation and both will need to be fine tuned as well to achieve a good running engine.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Can u show me an example of a tachometer? 

Also is there any diagrams of linkages?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

wantboost said:


> Can u show me an example of a tachometer?
> 
> Also is there any diagrams of linkages?


Just Google small engine tachometers to see the many varieties available.

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Asmall%20engine%20tachometer


I have a ($40) Electronic Specialties 328 EZ tach plus AND a cheaper less reliable one ($14)

Look in the service manual under the carb\governor section for the linkage configurations.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Photo/laser tachs work for snow snowblowers?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

wantboost said:


> Photo/laser tachs work for snow snowblowers?


 I used one (many) years ago for checking the rpm's of electric motors. I imagine you could stick a piece of the reflective tape on the engine pulley and get a pretty accurate reading.


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## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

ive been comparing linkages in manuals and on youtube videos i dunno which are proper spot? if the previous person who owned this snow blower touched them or if its the correct spot or not???


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