# '89 Toro 824 38080



## classiccat

I picked-up an '89 Toro 824 38080 Yesterday from CL for $185.


















The PO is a small-engine enthusiast so I lucked-out there. I dropped the float bowl this morning and was not disappointed aside from a bowl o-ring that had some dryrot; I have a stockpile...so we're covered. HS mixture was nuts-on, idle-mixture was off by 1/2-turn...no biggie. 









RPM's were a little shy at 3200 so I adjusted the throttle to hit 3450-3500 (no load).

The scraper bar is in excellent shape...the PO kept the skids adjusted. 

The interlock circuit is completely hosed so I have some parts on order. The drive & auger belts are on their last legs as well.
busted handle interlock:









I'm guessing that this is the interlock module...disconnected to account for the bad keyswitch & handle-switch?:









Besides that, I have a few broken bolts to extract and she'll be "good enough" for the next blizzard...until I do a tear-down / restoration on her.









Overall I'm very satisfied! Very strong engine & mechanically-sound machine!


----------



## classiccat

*Toro!*


----------



## detdrbuzzard

i've never seen a used snowblower that didn't need some tlc


----------



## UNDERTAKER

MAZEL TOV on your purchase. it will serve you well!!!!!!!!!


----------



## classiccat

Thanks Guys!!

Question: Is raising / tilting (leveling) the fuel-tank a common modification? The machine running dry with 1/4 tank of gas is already getting old.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

tilt it so the fuel line connection is at the lowest point. let me know if you need anything...


----------



## Grunt

I have the same model blower. I would think about replacing the fuel line. After 25 years, the inside of the line may be collapsing and restricting fuel flow. There are hundreds, maybe thousands of these machines running without changing the gas tank mounting. Could you post a picture of the tank and fuel shutoff ?


----------



## classiccat

does yours sputter going down-hill when the tank gets below 1/4 full? 

I'll snap some pics the next chance I get...I can tell you that even on a flat surface, the fuel pick-up is located at the highest-point of the tank. That's a little silly  .


----------



## UNDERTAKER

IT'S not your fuel tank. the carb has to be cleaned and rebuilt. on the out side chance the float may be sticking or sinking. check it out when you do the carb...it is a tecumsapart right??????


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> IT'S not your fuel tank. the carb has to be cleaned and rebuilt. on the out side chance the float may be sticking or sinking. check it out when you do the carb...it is a tecumsapart right??????


Thanks guys! I think you've answered my original question; tilting the tank is not a common modification.  

COME ON PS93...I'm throwing you "tecumsapart" softballs here man! I'm just a little irritated by this design...and you're right, I might have a sticky needle/valve (brown truck should be here today).

Maybe I'll put a honkin' fuel filter on that will serve as a collection reservoir during ups-and-downs during a low-fuel condition.


----------



## Grunt

classiccat said:


> does yours sputter going down-hill when the tank gets below 1/4 full?
> 
> I'll snap some pics the next chance I get...I can tell you that even on a flat surface, the fuel pick-up is located at the highest-point of the tank. That's a little silly  .


 I don't have any hills to confirm a sputtering, but POWERSHIFT sounds correct with the float possibly sinking or incorrectly set. Not sure what you mean by the pick up being at the high point of the tank?? Pictures ??


----------



## classiccat

Grunt said:


> I don't have any hills to confirm a sputtering, but POWERSHIFT sounds correct with the float possibly sinking or incorrectly set. Not sure what you mean by the pick up being at the high point of the tank?? Pictures ??


It's not a float issue; dry bowl.

this is as level as my property gets.









no biggie guys, I'll just keep keep the tank 1/4-full. 

Sorry for beating a dead horse!


----------



## Grunt

The fuel line from the tank to the shut off is about the same length as mine. I would still suggest changing the fuel lines for a $2-$3 cost. The Tecumseh lines are a little smaller outside diameter to fit through the shroud and behind the flywheel than standard 1/4" id automotive line. Please don't give up on the fix, everyone here is willing to help!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

The tilt of the tank might be due to someone putting on a slightly bigger tire or even having chains. If your tank has the two screws on the top like mine does you could simply loosen the front one and remove the rear one to place a couple washers between the tank and the mount to drop that rear a bit. If your plans are to tear it down big time this off season you could always put the mount in a vise and tweak it some to put that drain down. Always nice to be able to use all the fuel in your tank and I would go with a clear filter. Nice place to collect and see if you get water in your fuel too !!


----------



## classiccat

Kiss4aFrog said:


> The tilt of the tank might be due to someone putting on a slightly bigger tire or even having chains. If your tank has the two screws on the top like mine does you could simply loosen the front one and remove the rear one to place a couple washers between the tank and the mount to drop that rear a bit. If your plans are to tear it down big time this off season you could always put the mount in a vise and tweak it some to put that drain down. Always nice to be able to use all the fuel in your tank and I would go with a clear filter. Nice place to collect and see if you get water in your fuel too !!


^^ Bingo


----------



## threeputtpar

classiccat said:


> Besides that, I have a few broken bolts to extract and she'll be "good enough" for the next blizzard...until I do a tear-down / restoration on her.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I'm very satisfied! Very strong engine & mechanically-sound machine!


My HM80 came to me with that front bolt already snapped off, and I broke the muffler one myself. Tried drilling out the muffler one and proceeded to muck it up bad enough that it was no longer fixable. eBay and $17 and I had a replacement head with good threads. It came off of a lawn tractor, so it never saw snow.


----------



## classiccat

threeputtpar said:


> My HM80 came to me with that front bolt already snapped off, and I broke the muffler one myself. Tried drilling out the muffler one and proceeded to muck it up bad enough that it was no longer fixable. eBay and $17 and I had a replacement head with good threads. It came off of a lawn tractor, so it never saw snow.


I work on outboards so I've got some practice. Left-handed bits, very slow drill speeds & LOTS of cutting oil. 

If the bolt doesn't back-out, I'll shave it close to the threads with a dremel, pick-out the 1st 2 or 3 threads using a dental pick and chase it with a tap. 

...o_toh if I can snag a deal on a new head_ 

from my boat/motor resto.


----------



## db9938

Is that a heli-coil that you are using as a drill guide? Cause if it is I'm kicking myself for never thinking of using one for this purpose. I know that you may not have intended to share this idea, but thanks!


----------



## classiccat

db9938 said:


> Is that a heli-coil that you are using as a drill guide? Cause if it is I'm kicking myself for never thinking of using one for this purpose. I know that you may not have intended to share this idea, but thanks!


dang, that is a good idea!

that's actually the broken bolt backing out with the left-handed bit


----------



## db9938

Well, that'll never happen again. I make a mistake, and it actually ended up being a good idea.

Course, it only would help if there were any threads for it to lock into. If it were a flush break, then you would still be hurting. But if it had a recessed throat, then you could use a simple barrel collar. 

Dang, why didn't I think of this sooner!


----------



## classiccat

*Starter, Interlock, Skids and belts*

Hey Fellas...just a little update on the 824 project.

super stoked and wanted to share my joy!

I changed the skids and belts:








(_you'll have to take my word for it on the belts...no pics...sorry_







)

I installed new handle and key switches to the get the interlock / safety circuit working properly..._I don't want the machine chasing the wife down the street if I'm out of town during a storm_ .

Last week, I hooked-up the new switches, re-connected the interlock module...nada...dang thing was still a hazard-on-wheels. I instantly thought...busted module which is NLA . "hot wiring" this circuit isn't straightforward since everything is "normally closed". 

I started designing a digital circuit...but it requires a battery, relays, electronics knowledge and likely some tinkering to get it to work starting AND running simultaneously ; I developed an appreciation for that little passive interlock module!

new handle switch:









interlock module reconnected:


----------



## classiccat

That was last week.

This week, I needed an easy-win with my failed safety circuit.

I found a refurbed starter on fleabay for like 30 bucks!

I got lazy and just bolted the new starter on and "hoped" for the best. 
That was really dumb and I should have known better because it was WAY out of adjustment; starter bendix was barely touching the flywheel. 

So...off came the flywheel shroud, tweaked the mounting tabs & ground down the starter mounts on the block (looks like a PO built them up with weld) to tune the starter's bite. 









So anyone looking to add/replace a starter...don't be lazy...remove the shroud to see how much bite you're getting









Ready to rumble!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> That was last week.
> 
> This week, I needed an easy-win with my failed safety circuit.
> 
> I found a refurbed starter on fleabay for like 30 bucks!
> 
> I got lazy and just bolted the new starter on and "hoped" for the best.
> That was really dumb and I should have known better because the it was WAY out of adjustment; starter bendix was barely touching the flywheel.
> 
> So...off came the flywheel shroud, tweaked the mounting tabs & ground down the starter mounts on the block (looks like a PO built them up with weld) to tune the starter's bite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyone looking to add/replace a starter...don't be lazy...remove the shroud to see how much bite you're getting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to rumble!


 better get some paint or re chrome those handle bars


----------



## classiccat

Lastly, I took another crack at the interlock circuit. 

Removed the module completely, cleaned the contacts, rust (to get a better ground) and the plug contacts. 

Reassembled and figured it would be a good time to try my "new-to-me" starter.

Starter was working great...but the machine wouldn't fire 

Looked down to see the keyswitch in the "off" position (_previously ignored b/c the circuit wasn't working_). 

turned the key "on"....KAFOOOM!  






Thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## 43128

sounds like she surging a little, you may have to pull the head and adjust the valves if it still surges after a carburetor cleaning, thats what it ended up being on mine so i just put a honda gx200 clone on and saved the old engine for a summer project


----------



## classiccat

43128 said:


> sounds like she surging a little, you may have to pull the head and adjust the valves if it still surges after a carburetor cleaning, thats what it ended up being on mine so i just put a honda gx200 clone on and saved the old engine for a summer project


That surging is me trying to hold a cellphone and testing the various interlock combinations & grounding the ignition...which requires 3 hands .


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> better get some paint or re chrome those handle bars


In due time my friend! 

I've got the toro fully functional so it's last in-line for full restoration (_complete tear-down, head, valves, bearings, seals, paint, etc. etc. etc._)

She's behind Lil'Red and a busted-up '75 Starcraft / 3cyl Evinrude


----------



## classiccat

what started off as a quick-n-dirty fuel line replacement ended-up going a bit further. 



With the flywheel / shroud off, I noticed sludge around the head gasket. 

I hit the local small engine shop for a new head gasket & pulled the head (_and whoops...busted off a muffler bolt). It's a bit premature as I plan on doing a full restoration once I've relocated my family after a recent career change._

Pulling the head, the head bolts just above finger-tight (200 inch pounds required). I'm guessing the last guy didn't retorque after a few heating/cooling cycles? . I supposed I could've just retorqued the head-bolts but I wanted to see what was hiding inside. 

Some carbon build-up was easily removed with seafoam and a nylon brush. I scrape the surfaces with a razor blade & i'll dress the head. 





Good news is that the cylinder walls were pristine...no gouges or rust.

I was already impressed by the machine's ability to clear the plow-pile @ the end of my driveway...can't wait to see it perform with more compression!


----------



## detdrbuzzard

seems like you are restoring the engine without even trying, have you use it in any snow yet


----------



## sscotsman

classiccat said:


> Hey Fellas...just a little update on the 824 project.
> 
> super stoked and wanted to share my joy!


That photo solves the mystery of your tilted gas tank! 
Those definitely arent the original tires..
a previous owner added new tires that are quite a bit taller than the originals, raising up the rear and causing the whole machine to tilt
forward quite a bit..the rear end is raised up several inches.

Scot


----------



## classiccat

detdrbuzzard said:


> seems like you are restoring the engine without even trying, have you use it in any snow yet


 Seems that way! 

We had 8-10" of wet/heavy stuff on Thanksgiving-eve...this machine blew well once I leaned it out 1/2-turn!


----------



## classiccat

sscotsman said:


> That photo solves the mystery of your tilted gas tank!
> Those definitely arent the original tires..
> a previous owner added new tires that are quite a bit taller than the originals, raising up the rear and causing the whole machine to tilt
> forward quite a bit..the rear end is raised up several inches.
> 
> Scot


 Yep! They're monsters!  On the Brightside, machine drains well


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Reminds me of the Chevelle I owned back in the '70s with air shocks in the rear


----------



## Grunt

classiccat said:


> Yep! They're monsters!  On the Brightside, machine drains well


Hello classiccat. Those ARE the original tires. I have the exact machine with a serial number of 8188 which shows your machine was around the 50th one made AFTER mine. I put a level on my gas tank and it is 1/4" off of level and leaning down like yours.


----------



## classiccat

Grunt said:


> Hello classiccat. Those ARE the original tires. I have the exact machine with a serial number of 8188 which shows your machine was around the 50th one made AFTER mine. I put a level on my gas tank and it is 1/4" off of level and leaning down like yours.


That's awesome! We're monster-tire buddies! 

Maybe that was their answer for not installing fuel filters...let all of the crud settle in the front of the tank


----------



## classiccat

*Head Missing Washers*

With the head off, I cleaned-up the valves/seats. Definitely some build-up in on the seat surfaces...especially the intake... that came-off with seafoam & a wooden tongue depressor . 

Once the valves were re-installed & the head dressed, I was going to bolt the head down...*and realized that this machine was missing both the Belleville washers & flat washers*. I believe this explains the loose head bolts & galling) that I observed breaking this down.

Both the service manual & 38080 parts list show these washers.



Sooooo....I think we're a $4 box of Tecumseh Belleville washers (_and bleeder gaskets_) away from firing this bad boy back-up! 

Thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## classiccat

*Tecumseh Lipstick*

A little lipstick on the Tecumseh....

paint prep: 




prime: 


engine paint for the hotbox & shroud components: 



high-heat for the muffler:


----------



## classiccat

*Tecumseh Valve Surgery*

reseat the exhaust: 




and intake: 


After the reseating, I had to take some bottom material from the valve stems to get the proper valve clearance.

exhaust (0.009")


intake (0.011")


It turned-out to be a fairly productive day in the garage!

Thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## Grunt

The lapping cleaned those seats up nicely, no more popping after the engine warms up. Nice work, and thank you for the photos.


----------



## classiccat

Grunt said:


> The lapping cleaned those seats up nicely, no more popping after the engine warms up. Nice work, and thank you for the photos.


 Thanks Grunt and you're welcome!

1-step closer to throwin' the white stuff again!


----------



## classiccat

*oil filler tube*

Some work on the filler tube. Past experiences with Tecumseh engines, if you don't have a good seal on the filler tube, oil would pour from the breather. So I added an o-ring to the filler tube...and fixed a broken fastener.



added an o-ring to the bottom flange (not shown here...just showing the flange )


----------



## classiccat

*side-panel rehab*

the worst of my machine's rust resides on the left side panel.

removed it (and services the bushing in the process).


wire-wheeled the rust: 


wiped down with denatured alcohol & primed: 


Toro!


I'll hit the other areas next off season...


----------



## classiccat

*Engine reassembly*

I grabbed an old toaster oven to bake the muffler...which was painted with Rusto High-heat.


The spark-plug never went in/out smooth since I've owned it, so I chased the threads (more on this later):


head gasket: 


the rest of the bells/whistles: 


Holy Compression!!! 120# on the starter....60# with normal pulling:


Oil: Check!
Gas: Check: 
Spark-plug: *Oh No!!!!*



I was working my way up to 20ft-lbs on the torque wrench and those fuggly threads finally gave-up their ghost. Guess I'll be doing my 1st Helicoil


----------



## 43128

a used ones only 25 bucks on ebay


----------



## classiccat

43128 said:


> Tecumseh HM80 Cylinder Head P N 34030 | eBay
> 
> a used ones only 25 bucks on ebay


 Exactly! I started pricing helicoil kits and... 

I found another one for about the same price with shipping and already placed the order . 

Thanks man!


----------



## classiccat

*Twisted Toro*

With the engine sidelined waiting for the brown truck, I dove-in to correcting some handling issues I was having with this machine.

Skid adjustment was impossible and taking a step back due to the fact that the machine was twisted like a pretzel. 

I split the machine and found...


ouch!


The impeller bushing has no play and was quite clean...so probably replaced at some point: 


I'll try straightening the housing the best that I can...and I may have to install some spacers....Stay tuned!


----------



## classiccat

The saga of Twisted Toro continues!

I was able to straighten-out the main housing...


...without fixing squat 

And just so that you guys don't think I'm bananas...the twist isn't coming from the main housing...it's coming from the impeller housing: 


in the words of the great Todd Hoffman..."What the Frick!"

Was the machine born this way -or- did someone re-weld the impeller housing??

I guess my 2 options are to 1) elongate the holes (~ 1/16 / side) or 2.) have the unit re-welded.

your thoughts??


----------



## UNDERTAKER

I would have it welded up. those intermediate frames were kinda known to twist. if rode hard and put away wet. looking good so far there cat. after the handle issue it will look brand new.


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> I would have it welded up. those intermediate frames were kinda known to twist. if rode hard and put away wet. looking good so far there cat. after the handle issue it will look brand new.


Thanks PS93!!! 

You mean these shiny things I just scored???


----------



## classiccat

*Auger Housing Disassembly*

Breaking down the auger housing for a welder...

The auger pulley needed a little persuasion. 

I'm not sure why they didn't put puller holes in this thing...so I added some of my own along with a puller centering hole in the impeller shaft:


popped right off: 


with the bushing removed: 


removed the perimeter side-plate fasteners and the twisted housing comes right off:


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Todd, when I see all the work it takes to fix up a Toro I'm starting to re-think wanting a PowerShift


----------



## classiccat

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Todd, when I see all the work it takes to fix up a Toro I'm starting to re-think wanting a PowerShift


 I assume Powershifter's name is "Todd"...otherwise If you're commenting to Todd Hoffman, I'm not sure he's following this thread..._my parents called me Chris out of the chute ._

If it's any consolation, I'd buy another one of these in a heartbeat. Built like tanks & very easy to work on. 

I would however bring a tape measure & scrutinize a used machine for twist...and if any is discovered, use it as negotiation leverage.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Yup, just yanking PS93's chain. He keeps sending me links to Powershift machines as they pop on Craigslist.

No sense in being here if you can't have fun !!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

well the jig is up and the news of my name is known to everyone. so much for flying under the radar.


----------



## classiccat

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Yup, just yanking PS93's chain. He keeps sending me links to Powershift machines as they pop on Craigslist.
> 
> No sense in being here is you can't have fun !!


 I hear ya K4aF!

and no sense in having a garage if you're not going to eviscerate a perfectly good snowblower. 



While I have a welder's attention, he may as well fix these stress cracks that were hidden near the belt pulleys.




I think that's enough demo for one weekend!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> Thanks PS93!!!
> 
> You mean these shiny things I just scored???


 YEAHHHHHHHHHH those baby's.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Or three blowers and a tiller !!


----------



## classiccat

*downs & ups*

The replacement head arrived...cleaned it up and slapped it on...






only to find that the compression suuuuuuxxxxx...had a tough time getting everything true through dressing; this head has been worked-over before and with so little space above the piston, there's not much material left. 

Fortunately I had ordered a helicoil as back-up...man...what a marvelous invention!

I had enough old-threads to pull the self-cutting portion of the tap through the head...and set the new threads. 







the RTV-Red requires 24hrs to setup...I'll test compression tomorrow afternoon 

Thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## classiccat

for guys on the fence about reusing a head gasket...especially when swapping heads!

a.) new head gasket + old head: 120psi  --> _but I stripped the plug threads._
b.) same head gasket as (a) with new head: 35psi 
c.) same head gasket as (a, b) with old head (with helicoil): 80psi 
d) a new-new head gasket + old head (with helicoil): 135psi  

Now we're just waiting on the welder to finish the auger housing.


----------



## classiccat

*Merry Christmas *my *Toro* Bruthas & Sistas!!!!!!

It's been musical snowblowers in my garage this week.

I have an old Sears SS (link) that's been getting some love.

Welders don't want to touch my Toro impeller housing for anything < $240...so enough with that mess. I'm going to elongate the mounting holes & install stabilization plates to prevent it from rotating...that will cost me about $0.24 . I'll start that next week when we're done with our holiday travels. --> 01/01/15 Update: I decided to tackle welds myself 

I've been in a 15 round HEAVY WEIGHT BATTLE with my left-side tire. The bushings are shot and I'd like to have the flexibility to freewheel.

I needed my air hammer to remove left-side pin. 

puller bolts were then attached to the wheel with several washers:
 
I've tried several concoctions of penetrating oil (acetone/MMO, PB blaster, Liquid Wrench). After 10 days of trading blows, it was a combination of pounding, pulling, heating and soaking that finally swung the fight in my favor! 

This time I heated it to the limit using map gas (without melting the tire!). I pounded the rim by placing a socket just larger than the axle...and slammed it with a 3lb sledge and it finally gave...a solid 1/2". At that point, I attached the puller, hid my body behind my workbench and let my electric impact wrench unleash ****! 



my undefeated puller is going to need some time to recover after that battle!


----------



## classiccat

My Toro thread has been getting a little dusty soooo.....

1.) Have a Safe & Happy New Years!!

2.) I decided to man-up, grind off the 1-mile of welds on that impeller housing and reweld it myself...probably opening a can of worms here . _This is a new realm of restoration for me...so any tips would be greatly appreciated_! Sparks will start flying this afternoon!

3.) The auger drums where a mother to get off of the shafts. Cleaned the rust & crusty grease and coated the bushing areas with anti-seize so that in the event that I shear the bolt, it spins freely & doesn't destroy my gearbox. The drums will get sanded, painted with rustoleum black (+ hardener).

4.) some bling for PS93


----------



## Shryp

I don't remember the other 6 pages of this thread. You are aware your impeller blades are bent right?


----------



## classiccat

Shryp said:


> I don't remember the other 6 pages of this thread. You are aware your impeller blades are bent right?


Oh yeah, *Good Eye!* must have sucked-up an entire bicycle: 

I have a feeling this is the single event that twisted the impeller housing out-of-whack!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

REMEMBER THIS!!!!!!!!!! TORO does not use those BLOODY SHEAR PINS. run stainless steel. they are the same as a grade 5 bolt.


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> REMEMBER THIS!!!!!!!!!! TORO does not use those BLOODY SHEAR PINS. run stainless steel. they are the same as a grade 5 bolt.


 Once I start running it, it will be a shear pin...5/16" brass.


----------



## classiccat

I've never worked so hard for 3/32" .

I worked-up some courage last night and hit most of the welds with an angle grinder...at least the ones I could reach. There's a long bead along the chute (_what chased the pro-welder away_.)



I don't own a die grinder (my compressor is only 21gal) so I rediscovered my good-ole dremel! 

Their standard cutoff wheels (_the ones held in place by a slotted screw_) are absolutely worthless...and dangerous. I was apprehensive when I saw these EZ Load recommended on several forums. But I grabbed a set. My Review: WOW! Not one blew-up in my face and went threw the stitch welds like buttah!! I used 2 1/2 of them for the entire housing.




Once I got all of the welds taken care of, I hit them with a cold chisel in my riveting hammer...making sure each joint was opened-up.

Then I flipped the housing upside down, put a 2x4 on the bracket for the chute worm gear...and 2 whacks with the hammer made this housing true again!

Victory!!!




I'm going to wait on the machine body to be assembled (waiting on axle bushings) before verifying that the housing is true with the rest of the machine...and tack-weld the impeller housing in place.

One question, there's a pretty good gap along the chute...it sprung open as I cleared the weld. Do you think a 90A flux welder will fill this gap or do I need some kind of filler? I've never welded before so any tips would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

you got a wire feed welder around?????????


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> you got a wire feed welder around?????????


 It's funny you ask...a flux core welder showed-up on my doorstep yesterday!


----------



## classiccat

I spent the last hours of the Holiday break changing oil in one of our commuters, winterizing a yard vac (better late than never), tuning the '72 single-stage Sears thrower and sizing-up what's left on the *Toro*!

Threw on some "new" axle bushings...both were cracked/broken and badly worn resulting in a lot of slop.


I made my very 1st weld tacking the impeller housing to the auger housing (_I won't bother showing a pic of my tack weld...lets just say that I need ALOT of practice_! ). Man...she's squared-up beautifully: 


I drilled crack-stops for these stress cracks and dug them out a bit with a dremel for better weld penetration...I need all of the help I can get 


As someone pointed out earlier, some of the impeller fins are pretty banged-up. I tried heating them cherry hot & banging them back into place to no avail. I need to grind-off the welds and forge each piece individually...that may happen some day; In the meantime, I'll be installing the "impeller mods" . 

724 (year?) / 824 ('89) Comparison:


----------



## classiccat

just squeezed-in a little welding practice before last call on Holiday Break . 

I'm using the HF 90A Flux Welder. This is 2mm steel so going off of the dummy-sticker:
Wire: 0.030
Current setting: Min
Wire-speed: 4

Underside complete (notice discoloration)...now hitting the top-side.




ground down: 


I'm pretty happy with the results! I just finished priming the piece...I'll hit it with topcoat before hitting the hay.

Thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## bosco659

Nice work and interesting thread to read and follow. Looking forward to seeing more!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

why don't you look for another impeller. and keep that old one for back up.


----------



## classiccat

bosco659 said:


> Nice work and interesting thread to read and follow. Looking forward to seeing more!


 Thanks bosco! Plenty of things wrong with this thing...that need to be made right


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> why don't you look for another impeller. and keep that old one for back up.


 Good Suggestion!

I started looking when I realized that I couldn't easily bang this one into shape.. 

Most in the range that I'm willing to spend are also bent ($32 shipped): 









The ones that aren't bent run nearly what an entire parts machine would cost me. 

I'll put this one in and if/when a back-up shows-up, these older Toros come apart easy enough that I'll be able to swap it out. I pulled the impeller off & coated the shaft with A/S so a swap should be cake.  I may even rebuild this impeller over the summer.


----------



## classiccat

Pleasantly surprised at how easy welding can be with a little practice!

First bead on the inner housing: 



And a few beads later: 


Using the 90A HF flux welder:
Current: Min
Speed: 6
Wire: 0.030"

Those welds were a huge hurdle for this project. Downhill from here fellas!

Thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## classiccat

Welding complete, final check for fit, sanded for paint: 


Auger housing primed: 


1st coat of toro red on most of the components:


A few more coats of paint / cure & we'll be slapping this dude back together.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

MAZEL TOV there BROTHER CLASS.


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> MAZEL TOV there BROTHER CLASS.


 TODA Brutha Powershift!!!


----------



## classiccat

Some progress on the old girl.

wheeled, sanded & primed the auger drums: 

^^^ man, was I tempted to keep them flat black.

Tires were pretty crusty...especially the one that I drilled holes for a puller, soak with various penetrating fluids and heated with map gas 

JB weld on the holes


Prime & paint:


----------



## classiccat

Painted the auger drums, then assembled the auger housing: 


service position to start building the body of the machine. Tip: first place the auger belt actuating arm / brake before bolting that section down.


top portion of the housing installed: 


start assembling the traction components: 






^^^ I picked up some of that Silkolene pro chain lube. Great stuff (not a fan of white lithium grease and have been looking for a replacement). It has very low viscosity when sprayed...then thickens up.


----------



## classiccat

Rust-free Handlebars installed & machine linkages connected: 


Waxed down the machine/rims & put some armor-all on the tires:


And took her outside for some vitamin-D:


^^^ Both sides of the housing touching the ground without lifting the opposite handlebar! 




Shortlist:


Impeller Mod 
set the skids 
mount the motor/chute
 thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## Pathfinder13

That project looks really great ! I'm thinking after all that work you're going to clean up the engine a little bit too and it will look like new. I noticed they have mufflers cheap on Amazon in case you're interested. I took the HM80 off my machine and put a brand-new HF predator 301 on it. If your engine is strong though just run it . Looks great !


----------



## UNDERTAKER

DID YOU get a different impeller for it then. BROTHER CC.


----------



## classiccat

Pathfinder13 said:


> That project looks really great ! I'm thinking after all that work you're going to clean up the engine a little bit too and it will look like new....


 Thanks Pathfinder! That's a great idea !


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> DID YOU get a different impeller for it then. BROTHER CC.


 Hey BruthaPS! Still using old-twisty; It's not binding / rubbing anywhere and I'll make due with adding impeller mods for the time being.

If I don't find one for the right price by the summer (_and I'm not in the middle of a relocation_), I'll rebuild the one that's in there.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> Hey BruthaPS! Still using old-twisty; It's not binding / rubbing anywhere and I'll make due with adding impeller mods for the time being.
> 
> If I don't find one for the right price by the summer (_and I'm not in the middle of a relocation_), I'll rebuild the one that's in there.


 what in the name of ZUES do you mean by relocation????????????


----------



## UNDERTAKER

did you paint the rims??? they are ALL WHITE and PURRDY.


----------



## classiccat

Lets just say that I jumped from a sinking ship (Big Blue's microelectronics division that was just sold) and found something better 90min away.... this is why I havent been swiping up all of those sweet toro deals in the hudson valley 

Yep...those tires took some elbow grease. To be honest, id be happier with an off-white enamel but I have more rusto-white than I know what to do with soooo...


----------



## classiccat

Oh bruthaPS! Speaking of deals. I almost scored a 70's vintage 8hp briggs for $20...needed a full rebuild!!!! I couldnt get there fast enough and someone beat me to the punch :/


----------



## UNDERTAKER

I know a place where you can get a brand new 8 HP BRIGGS flat head.


----------



## detdrbuzzard

nice work CC


----------



## classiccat

detdrbuzzard said:


> nice work CC


 Thanks Detroit!!!!


----------



## classiccat

Impeller Mods.

Most fugly:




least fugly:


least clearance in this position:


----------



## classiccat

Mounted 8 horsies of American Muscle: 



Equal/Even Clearance; This was impossible before rewelding the auger housing:


>||< this close to being ready for the white stuff!!!!


We might be seeing some smoke in the driveway tomorrow fellas! 

Have a great weekend and thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

MAZEL TOV there once again BROTHER CC.


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> MAZEL TOV there once again BROTHER CC.


Thanks BRUTHA PS!!!!


----------



## classiccat

Fired-up 1st Pull 

The only things wrong were the deadman circuit isn't working again & I had to tighten 2 bolts in the traction assembly! Otherwise she's ready!!

If you don't like my choice in music, mute until 2:06 (*when I crank the engine*!)


----------



## UNDERTAKER

that is some groovy music there BROTHER CC. that music was before my time here .


----------



## UNDERTAKER

1989 was the year I graduated high school. just throwing that out there for you. BROTHER CC.


----------



## classiccat

Im pretty sure PUSA played in the frozen Tundra post 1991 (year I graduated) brutha PS!!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> Im pretty sure PUSA played in the frozen Tundra post 1991 (year I graduated) brutha PS!!


 can't say I remember them. what was their big hit back then??????


----------



## db9938

Hey, I graduated in '90.....PUSA? But then again, music was not exactly my main focus back then. I was just trying to keep a car running.


----------



## classiccat

Brutha PS, Brutha db, you're in for a treat ...these guys are nuts like us


----------



## db9938

Ah, I remember that one. 

Back then Girls, Girls, Girls was more my thing. Today, I have three daughters.....Karma.


----------



## Grunt

classiccat said:


> Fired-up 1st Pull
> 
> The only things wrong were the deadman circuit isn't working again & I had to tighten 2 bolts in the traction assembly! Otherwise she's ready!!
> 
> If you don't like my choice in music, mute until 2:06 (*when I crank the engine*!)
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NhbThMZEVA


Very nice video compilation CC. It was like watching the birth of a snow blower. Job well done.


----------



## Pathfinder13

Great work indeed !! That machine looks beautiful. Remember never go in front of that auger .. with it on. Kinda scary to me the old machines with no dead man handles. Just the same it's a beauty with your restoration work very nice.


----------



## classiccat

Grunt said:


> Very nice video compilation CC. It was like watching the birth of a snow blower. Job well done.


 Thanks Grunt! ...figured I'd summarize the rebuild to save folks the time of flipping through 10+ pages of my senseless ramblings .

I'll tell ya... those monster tires that you and I have on our machines really pop when they're cleaned-up!


----------



## classiccat

Pathfinder13 said:


> Great work indeed !! That machine looks beautiful. Remember never go in front of that auger .. with it on. Kinda *scary to me the old machines with no dead man handles*. Just the same it's a beauty with your restoration work very nice.


 Thanks Pathfinder! 

you're telling me! I bet my cellphone was like >  < during the recording! 

This is one design that I am hardly impressed with. I had the interlock module (NLA) working before disassembly...now it's not responding. I cleaned-up all of the connections and have a solid ground connection; I think the module is toast ...and the normally-closed switch configuration doesn't lend itself to a simple work-around to ground the ignition when our hands leave the controls at the wrong time. We'll figure something out...


----------



## UNDERTAKER

that was the first thing I did when I brought SR. home. I ripped out all that safety interlock crap on there. they are more of a pain in the TUCUS than anything else. I am the only one that runs it. and I know all of it's moods. I ALWAYS HAVE AND WILL BE AN OUTLAW. never to follow the status quo.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

now that I saw the full name of the band. I remember them. but poison, whitesnake, crue, and all the others were my main music.


----------



## classiccat

*Toro Safety Interlock Circuit*

Case of the grumpy Safety Interlock Circuit solved....1/25/2015 Update: ...by ripping out the entire interlock system. The interlock module (NLA) was intermittently working. I'm waiting on parts to make a simplified safety/kill circuit....stay tuned!


----------



## dbert

Just want to throw in my own "nice job" CC.


----------



## classiccat

dbert said:


> Just want to throw in my own "nice job" CC.


 Thanks for stoppin' the thread by dbert!!!!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

They also sang that song PEACHES right?????? and once again MAZEL TOV there BROTHER CC.


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> They also sang that song PEACHES right?????? and once again MAZEL TOV there BROTHER CC.


 Yeah buddy! They're pretty nuts! Too bad they never did a cover of Home Sweet Home for ya!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> Yeah buddy! They're pretty nuts! Too bad they never did a cover of Home Sweet Home for ya!


 well not everything can biscuits and high tea. every day here in the trench's.


----------



## classiccat

2 updates:
1) turns out that the interlock module was on the fritz and intermittent afterall. I ripped out the entire interlock system. I have normally open limit switches on order and im going to have to add a normally closed switch to the handle switch. Almost FOOLPROOF. The only downside of this design is that someone could start it with traction and / or auger engaged...but your hand must be on the handle so still safe.

2) This machine is AN ABSOLUTE BEAST!!!!! CRAZY POWERFUL!!! 1st gear is a little too fast though...wish there was a creeper speed for the EOD.

the Red Bruthas both saw action today


----------



## detdrbuzzard

one of my favorite you tube vids


----------



## classiccat

What Ken lacks in technique/form he makes up for in RAW POWER!!!  AWESOME!!!!!


----------



## Shryp

You could change the pulleys to slow down all the drive gears. You might also be able to cheat the adjustment to favor reverse a bit and that would speed up your reverse and slow down your forward. Most times slowing down all forward speeds is fine though.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

MAZEL TOV there BROTHER CC. you finally got snow in the big apple.


----------



## classiccat

Shryp said:


> You could change the pulleys to slow down all the drive gears. You might also be able to cheat the adjustment to favor reverse a bit and that would speed up your reverse and slow down your forward. Most times slowing down all forward speeds is fine though.


 Thanks for the ideas Shyrp! As of now, F1 right now is hauliin' butt while R2 is draggin' butt!


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> MAZEL TOV there BROTHER CC. you finally got snow in the big apple.


 Long overdue broham!!!!!! 

Icing on the cake is that mother nature waited for Saturday to dump the white stuff! She can be great like that sometimes


----------



## classiccat

Elixir for High-speed, No-load surge:


1hr in this stuff and all your problems will melt away!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

classiccat said:


> Thanks for the ideas Shyrp! As of now, F1 right now is hauliin' butt while R2 is draggin' butt!


Now that I've see this exchange maybe you aren't modifying something as much as you might be properly adjusting it 

As for that can of carb cleaner. I'm usually not one for safety but with that stuff make sure you use gloves and it would be smart to wear goggles or even a shield. If it splashes on skin it burns like crazy.


----------



## classiccat

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Now that I've see this exchange maybe you aren't modifying something as much as you might be properly adjusting it
> 
> As for that can of carb cleaner. I'm usually not one for safety but with that stuff make sure you use gloves and it would be smart to wear goggles or even a shield. If it splashes on skin it burns like crazy.


 No doubt...Nitrile gloves & eye protection are a must with this stuff!

I have to confess, besides rebuilding every square inch of this machine, I haven't touched the traction linkage settings....guess what I'll be doing tomorrow


----------



## classiccat

Ran the machine this morning to record some times.

I measured-out 20' and ran each of the drive settings: 
F3: 6.5s, 7.2s, 6.7s
F2: 7.1s
F1: 8.83s, 8.75s
R1: 9.5s
R2: 8.6s, 8.5s

The F3 & F2 were tough to measure holding a stop watch and dropping into gear...machine pops a wheelie without a good hold of the handlebars 

As you can see...very little differentiation between the speeds.

I popped-off the fuel tank & put it into a service position hoping to be able to make an adjustment: 

F3: 


F1: 


Sorry fellas, but I think this machine is dialed-in...nuts-on. F1 cannot travel right any further...it's almost hitting the shaft. 

I thought Neutral was way off but when I got the friction wheel centered between the F & R plates, it barely touches Forward when in gear.

If I don't get accustomed to it, I may be in the market this summer for an older machine with the handle controls...which allow for ease in "goosing" F1. 

Thoughts/ideas from the Toro gurus?


----------



## detdrbuzzard

what do you mean by an older machine with handle controls? are you talking about the levers on the handle bars that engage traction and the auger


----------



## classiccat

detdrbuzzard said:


> what do you mean by an older machine with handle controls? are you talking about the levers on the handle bars that engage traction and the auger


 Yessir. late 70's / early 80's.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

those models the first forward is super slow. 2 forward is a little better 3 forward yeah you can lift it off. even if you have it adjusted right. it is the gear in there that runs the whole show. to fix that issue you would have to swap gears out. there BROTHER CC.


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> those models the first forward is super slow. 2 forward is a little better 3 forward yeah you can lift it off. even if you have it adjusted right. it is the gear in there that runs the whole show. to fix that issue you would have to swap gears out. there BROTHER CC.


 Thanks for the insight brutha-POWER. There isn't a super-slow speed on this. If I could achieve one, I would be doing backflips!!!! 

I assume you mean the 2 gears would need to be swapped? The one on the wheel axle (blue arrow) + the gear tucked behind the chain sprocket (red)?


----------



## classiccat

^^^ actually...swapping out chain sprockets & adjusting the chain would be $$$$$

EDIT: looking closer, the large sprocket would need to be made larger...and the smaller sprocket would need to be made smaller (it's already tiny). No room for either. hmmm...


----------



## detdrbuzzard

classiccat said:


> Yessir. late 70's / early 80's.


my 826 is a bit like your 824 in that first gear is pretty fast but I like my 521's and powershift better because of the control on the handlebars. I've got a friend looking for a snowblower, he has around 60 acres of land with three separate patio / entertainment areas. It's such an open area that he won't have to worry about running into anything. I'm going to take the 826 to him and let him try it out and if he wants it i'll sell it for what I have spent on it


----------



## classiccat

detdrbuzzard said:


> my 826 is a bit like your 824 in that first gear is pretty fast but I like my 521's and powershift better because of the control on the handlebars. I've got a friend looking for a snowblower, he has around 60 acres of land with three separate patio / entertainment areas. It's such an open area that he won't have to worry about running into anything. I'm going to take the 826 to him and let him try it out and if he wants it i'll sell it for what I have spent on it


 Yeah, Mine would be a dream if I didn't have to maneuver so much. 

The drive torque is unreal!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

all I know is that on SR. first gear fogettttttttttttttt about it. it just plain crawls like a turtle.


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> all I know is that on SR. first gear fogettttttttttttttt about it. it just plain crawls like a turtle.


 SR sounds like 1 cool cat!!! 

Mine goes 10' in 4.4s in 1st.


----------



## detdrbuzzard

when we had that snow rain mix last year I ran into the back of my old van the, 826 got caught in a rut and was pulled towards the van and my first instinct was to let go of the control lever seeing that I had just put the 521 away. it was going too fast and by the time I thought to shift into neutral bam, no harm to either machine though. that's when I decided to get either an 824 powerthrow or an 824 powershift, I'm still half looking for an electric start 824 powerthrow and if I find one for $250 - $300 i'll more than likely get it


----------



## classiccat

*Big Red vs Little Juno*

Quick update today for my Toro buds.

We dodged Juno here in the Hudson Valley but I did get some EOD snow to play in . I hit mine and a few neighbor's driveways...and I'm back to digging my *Toro*! *My most sincere apologies to my machine ...and to you guys...for doubting it*!  

I did make a slight adjustment to the traction...backed-off the forward engagement a bit (_I think this is what Shyrp suggested_) and I think this helped me for "goosing" / lightly-engaging the F1 speed when I need to creep. 

I also had a little bit of slop in the machine from worn-out fastners...went around replacing 3/8 stock bolts with Stainless 3/8 with lockwashers. Quite a difference when you're able to apply some torque to the fasteners that hold your machine together.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

is that what they are calling it now????????????????/


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> SR sounds like 1 cool cat!!!
> 
> Mine goes 10' in 4.4s in 1st.


 HE is 1 righteous DUDE!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> HE is 1 righteous DUDE!!!!!!!!!!


So is my SR! He's a little scrapper!!!! 





 
His nickname in this neighborhood??? Lil' a $ $ kicker ...since 1972!


----------



## classiccat

*We all make mistakes...right?????*

I've been bothered by a small spot of oil collecting under the breather tube. 

I was POSITIVE that I needed to re-torque the sump cover....so off with the Tec:


I had one bolt that was slightly below 125 in-lbs...so it wasn't that. 

I swallowed my pride...opened-up the valve cover and sure enough, I put the breather in upside down..._I'm placing the blame directly on Sierra Nevada for making such a delicious Pale Ale_ .

Slapped the engine back on...no more oil drops and I think I may have even picked-up a ~50 RPMS under load.

If there's a bonehead-move-of-the-day award (_albeit retroactive_), I'm personally submitting my entry 

Have a great day fellas! 

Good luck to all of my buds here in the north-east!


----------



## classiccat

We got 9-12" so far..._wife drug me outside a bit prematurely_. I'll do a 2nd-pass with Lil' Red & see how he handles the EOD


----------



## classiccat

After I loaded the video above, I scarfed down some lunch and went over to hit an elderly neighbor's property. 

While doing so, I managed to bust my tension spring...and the grade of his drive helped identify the Achilles heel of my fuel system....and undersized fuel filter. I was able to limp through the "job" by keeping constant tension on the traction control.

So a quick call to the local OPE shop, they had the spring in-stock...and some honkin' fuel filters 




New filter:


The *TORO* is now *BOMB PROOF*!


----------



## classiccat

A mildly creative (_yet severely cruel_) introduction to my next project for this machine .






^^^ I really did have the greatest intentions in mind...my cellphone did not


----------



## classiccat

*1 Step Closer to THE LIGHT!*

I got home from work this evening and a nice/heavy box was waiting in our entry way with my name on it! 

Off comes the flywheel (_NOTE: service manual for some reason recommends not using a puller...and recommends clubbing the crank with a hammer while prying blind on the backside with a pry-bar_ )


lonely back there: 


18W stator installed; I've never seen one of these installed so this position made the most sense for routing the output wire:


Flywheel compare; Old vs New:


installed:

The engine fired right-up (_relieved; I kind of winged ordering the flywheel_ )

got-up to over 23V when the engine warmed-up and RPMs were in the 3500 range:


Waiting on an order from "The Shack" & ebay to finish this enlightening project 

Thanks for stoppin' by and have a great weekend folks!!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Lookin' good


----------



## Shryp

classiccat said:


> Off comes the flywheel (_NOTE: service manual for some reason recommends not using a puller...and recommends clubbing the crank with a hammer while prying blind on the backside with a pry-bar_ )


Pulling on the edge of a cast iron flywheel like that can crack it in half. Worse yet, it could put a hairline crack in it that you won't see until it shatters while running. It is probably pretty rare, but it could happen.


----------



## classiccat

Shryp said:


> Pulling on the edge of a cast iron flywheel like that can crack it in half. Worse yet, it could put a hairline crack in it that you won't see until it shatters while running. It is probably pretty rare, but it could happen.


 Thanks Shyrp! I was wondering why they advised against it...and I think that mainly pertains to the flimsy lawnmower flywheels. Regardless, a cracked flywheel can cause severe injury.

Whacking the crank with a hammer puts the crank & sump cover at risk; I know because I snapped the little crank on my H35. I believe prying the back concentrates the force at 1 point which may also warp/crack a wheel. Plus you can damage a stator, ignition components and/or backside magnets if you're not careful.

Cracking the flywheel had a very low probability in my case; I'm using a 3point puller and i'm pulling on the thinner-lip which would give way long before the bulk material would crack.

The real question is, why didn't they provide puller holes???


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I thought they had threaded holes close to the center. In that case you just turn the jaws of the puller you had around and use bolts to attach the puller to the flywheel and you're good to go.
Or a steering wheel puller or even something fabricated at home.
.


----------



## classiccat

Neither my H35 or HM80 (nor the HSK80 flywheel that I just installed)have puller holes. Ive considered adding some 1/4 20 holes.


----------



## classiccat

Tidied-up the wiring on the LED Flood....mounted-up nice & high:




lighting-up my driveway like it's 3 in the afternoon! 
http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/classiccatCB/media/Toro824/20150219_191520_zpsn7jp9tfu.jpg.html

^^^ nevermind my wife's vanity plate...she really likes the 824 

Have a great weekend fellas!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

MAZEL TOV there BROTHER CC. that looks like a spray painted plate if you ask me.


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> MAZEL TOV there BROTHER CC. that looks like a spray painted plate if you ask me.


TODA there brutha PS! 

yah...had some leftover *TORO Red* spraybomb


----------



## classiccat

Winter storm sparta gave me an opportunity to really try-out (and record) the 18W LED floodlamp if any of you guys are contemplating the modification. 

Here are some of the details behind what was needed for my engine: post #721 in superedge88's massively-helpful Upgrading your snowblower lights to LED thread.

And here's some nighttime snow-throwin' action ..._with all of the exterior lights on my property turned-off_ 

http://youtu.be/M3K8zZw-Wvw?t=56s

^^^ I'd say that the little 18W flood light is plenty-bright!


----------



## UNDERTAKER

YEAHHHHHHHHHHHH That is a pretty bright IDEA ON THAT 1. there BROTHER CC.


----------



## classiccat

*Final touches*

Lately I've been getting my fleet of lawn OPE ready for action.

I had drained Big Red's fuel, purged the fuel system & change the oil a few weeks back.

I wheeled him back into the garage yesterday for final "summer-izing" & a repair.

For starters, my Save-A-Thread insert pulled-out on me when I pulled the plug to fog the cylinder. I know it's because I limp-wristed setting the 1st-one in....there weren't even marks in the head-threads.

A new thread insert arrived in the mail so I pulled the head so that I can put blocks behind it...and really smacked-it into place once the High-Temp Red RTV setup for about an hour. 

^^^That should do it!

Head torqued to spec (200 in-lbs); I'll retorque after a few heating/cooling cycles:


One nice feature with these older toro auger boxes is how they pull apart for servicing...pulled the outer set of 1/4-20 bolts & the 5/16 bolt/washer at the end of the auger shaft...i'm able to get in there, clean & wax the housing...and also oil (30wt) the auger bushings.



Lastly, I pull the wheels to clean (MMO) & lube the wheel shafts (Evinrude Triple-guard grease), & oil the wheel bushings with 30wt. 


^^^ Man, this thing moves easy-peasy in free-wheel mode!

This will probably be my last update until next Snow-season! 

Thanks for stickin' with me on this one guys! Have a great summer!


----------



## 43128

classiccat said:


> After I loaded the video above, I scarfed down some lunch and went over to hit an elderly neighbor's property.
> 
> While doing so, I managed to bust my tension spring...and the grade of his drive helped identify the Achilles heel of my fuel system....and undersized fuel filter. I was able to limp through the "job" by keeping constant tension on the traction control.
> 
> So a quick call to the local OPE shop, they had the spring in-stock...and some honkin' fuel filters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New filter:
> 
> 
> The *TORO* is now *BOMB PROOF*!



does anyone remember the part number for that spring? the toro parts diagram shows the spring but doesnt give a part number


----------



## Grunt

43128 said:


> does anyone remember the part number for that spring? the toro parts diagram shows the spring but doesnt give a part number


Toro part number 11-4640.


----------



## 43128

thanks, really appreciate it


----------



## classiccat

Here's a vid of Big Red slingin' the white stuff.






I realized AFTER the storm... why I had to keep leaning-out the carb and adjusting the RPMs...I ran it fully-choked! :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


----------



## RIT333

Wow - yours really throws that white stuff compared to your neighbor's. What is she using ?

Do you have an impeller seal kit ?


----------



## classiccat

RIT333 said:


> Wow - yours really throws that white stuff compared to your neighbor's. What is *he* using ?
> 
> Do you have an impeller seal kit ?


Joe is using an old MTD...and I think it's only a 5HP but I could be wrong. I actually like it... and from what I've seen in the brief time that I've lived here, he takes good care of his equipment.

I was referring to the lady next to him shoveling...I cleared her drive when I saw her trying to shovel. I think the 724 that I'm currently working on would be a good fit for her! 

regarding the impeller kit, never leave the shed without it:


I have a bunch of bailer belt if you need any! :icon-cheers:


----------



## RIT333

All set - I pass by HF 1/wk, plus I found some "scrap" rubber at GE - but I can't figure out where I put it ! Need to clean up my garage !


----------



## UNDERTAKER

*I take it the wifey was warm and dry in the house the whole time. At least you have space between the houses oot there in NY. Here in the Paradise City the are parked close together, and even tighter together as you head into the cities. I wonder if those builders were eating sardines when they building around here.:icon-doh::icon-doh:*


----------



## UNDERTAKER

*I have to ask this it has been driving me nuts for awhile now. who's pooch and what kind is it???????*


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *I take it the wifey was warm and dry in the house the whole time. At least you have space between the houses oot there in NY. Here in the Paradise City the are parked close together, and even tighter together as you head into the cities. I wonder if those builders were eating sardines when they building around here.:icon-doh::icon-doh:*


This is an older plan. The newer plans are starting to put properties on top of one another. 

you can really let it rip here!



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *I have to ask this it has been driving me nuts for awhile now. who's pooch and what kind is it???????*


That's my ankle-biter Max. He's a chihuahua / pug mix.


he has a deep appreciation for snowblowers...


----------



## jorciani

classiccat said:


> I picked-up an '89 Toro 824 38080 Yesterday from CL for $185.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PO is a small-engine enthusiast so I lucked-out there. I dropped the float bowl this morning and was not disappointed aside from a bowl o-ring that had some dryrot; I have a stockpile...so we're covered. HS mixture was nuts-on, idle-mixture was off by 1/2-turn...no biggie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RPM's were a little shy at 3200 so I adjusted the throttle to hit 3450-3500 (no load).
> 
> The scraper bar is in excellent shape...the PO kept the skids adjusted.
> 
> The interlock circuit is completely hosed so I have some parts on order. The drive & auger belts are on their last legs as well.
> busted handle interlock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing that this is the interlock module...disconnected to account for the bad keyswitch & handle-switch?:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides that, I have a few broken bolts to extract and she'll be "good enough" for the next blizzard...until I do a tear-down / restoration on her.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I'm very satisfied! Very strong engine & mechanically-sound machine!


Hi
I also picked up this exact same machine off Cl for $40, guy said it wouldn't stay running, i figured a Carb. so I took a chance on it for $40, put a new carb. on it and it run great, then in jocking it around in my garage i shattered the plastic interlock handle, (new handle on order) same as you. Can you tell me how it was to replace, I notice theirs a connection underneath where the drive shift is for the interlock lever, but notice the original wires run threw a hole in the handle bar, will the new wire route this same way ??

Any help in this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you


----------



## jorciani

I also broke the bolt in the head holding on the muffler bracket, I couldn't get it out so I used a sheet metal screw just before the slotted hole and it sits in between the head fins.


----------

