# HS828 Broken Auger Pulley



## hurtman (Dec 3, 2019)

I've had an HS828W for years and love it. Always starts on 1 pull. Today I thought I broke the auger belt only to find that the auger pulley is broken is broken. It looks like it's pressed on? And the center of the pulley is still on the shaft. Just curious if this pulley is really pressed on and if so, any recommendations on how to pull what's left of the pulley off of the shaft.

Thanks,
Jeff


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## SkunkyLawnmowers (Oct 18, 2018)

A photo or two might assist you get in getting more helpful replies.....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

It is pretty rare, but I have seen these large pulleys fracture and brake in there Center before.

You will have to configure some type of pulled to get the remainder off, probably some Trizol and heat might help as well.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

hurtman said:


> Just curious if this pulley is really pressed on and if so, any recommendations on how to pull what's left of the pulley off of the shaft.


 On the HS828, the stub shaft and auger pulley are one piece. If it broke, it's likely that the impeller bearing is bad. It's an easy welding job to reconnect the pulley to the shaft/hub; just get it lined back up correctly.

Or buy it new: 22424-768-020 PULLEY, AUGER DRIVEN (198MM) https://www.partspak.com/productcar...10-Pulley-198Mm-New-22424-768-020-p347772.htm


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

The pulleys are slip fit and are keyed, both are held down using a fat 8mm washer and an M8 bolt in the middle, just take off the bolt/washer and the pulleys should slide right off, some pb blaster or other penetrant may be needed.

Edit: realize now that you are talking about the bigger auger pulley rather than the upper pulley mounted onto the engine. 

To remove the pulley you'd need to take off the augers, impeller and take apart the bucket from the rest of the chassis.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

tabora said:


> On the HS828, the stub shaft and auger pulley are one piece. If it broke, it's likely that the impeller bearing is bad. It's an easy welding job to reconnect the pulley to the shaft/hub; just get it lined back up correctly.
> 
> Or buy it new: 22424-768-020 PULLEY, AUGER DRIVEN (198MM) https://www.partspak.com/productcar...10-Pulley-198Mm-New-22424-768-020-p347772.htm


that's a pretty good price.


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## hurtman (Dec 3, 2019)

Here are a couple of pics. One is of the pully sitting where should be and the other is a pic of the break. Thanks.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Pretty poor design in my opinion …. just sayin …


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

The impeller must be seized on the pulley shaft as there is a shear pin/bolt that is there to avoid this from happening. 



A good welder can certainly weld it back together by the way.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

FWIW heads-up. boats.net is offering free shipping – no minimum order – through tonight, Dec 3, 2019.


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

*Broken pully replacement*

I have this part, very slightly used- if you are interested call me at 509 679 7312 ( No texts) or e-mail at [email protected] I will send you pictures. $25 and shipping


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

I would replace the pulley/shaft combination. 
You could have it welded and keep it for a spare part in an emergency but I wouldn't use it after it was welded unless in an emergency.
It would have to be put into a fixture to make sure the pulley stays exactly straight and true when welded and make sure it stays exactly true after it cools down, plus it will be out of balance a little bit.
If it has a slight wobble to the pulley after it is repaired, it will wreck the bearing and in time it will crack the housing where it is mounted to, then you would be looking at an expensive replacement part-auger housing.
You could have the housing welded if it cracks, but in time the weld will break right at the "Kerf" of the weld, and then it would be time for auger housing replacement at a nice expensive cost, plus the weld could eventually break at its "Kerf" on the pulley where it was welded.


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