# refurbish tips



## JerryJ (Jan 11, 2012)

I sure hope this info wasn't already posted.

When we do our strip-down and refurbish, one thing we do is a compression test BEFORE we do anything. There's our bench mark

Then we'll remove the flywheel remove and inspect the points and condenser (truth is, we replace both) set the timing first and then the gap per specs.

Then we pop both valves. but before we do so we check the lash.
We'll slightly wire brush the face and seat and then lap them to get that ultimate seating.

For the cost we'll buy both new springs. If you have an older machine you'll be surprised in the difference between old and new spring height.
We had one engine back firing a lot because the springs were "limpy-soggy, just plain weak" the compression increase to 95PSI and the backfring disappeared and it idles better.

The we soak the carb and install a new carb kit, new plug and oil change


----------



## JerryJ (Jan 11, 2012)

on to the snowblower portion of things: 
Under the category of general service come the friction wheel and the drive wheel. The friction wheel is a rubber based wheel that hwen adjusted properly works similar to a clutch in a transmission. The drive wheel or drive plate is the other componant that works with the friction wheel and are typically aluminum.

The drive wheel can get scuffed with what I refer to as "skid marks" because that;'s what it looks like after severe use. Whip that drive wheel down with a light solvent and the use sand paper to re-scratch the surface. You'll see first hand how it comes back to "new" agian.

The friction wheel itself just plain wears down or gets brttle and can crack.
They're cheap enough to replace and even for a novice should only take max of an hour to replace. they should be replaced every year or two depending on how much snowblowing you do. 

If you do a lot of neighbors and big piles of snow consider a friction wheel replacement every couple of years.
Belts fall under the same category. Make sure the belts are aligned properly on both pulleys so nothing appears to be offset (misaligned)

Remove your shear pins after each season is over with, clean them and reinstall, maybe even grease the shear pin to assure it doesn't seize up. I've seen a few of them actually seize into the shaft, no fun getting them out.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

JerryJ said:


> Whip that drive wheel down with a light solvent and the use sand paper to re-scratch the surface. You'll see first hand how it comes back to "new" agian.


I never liked the idea of scuffing up the drive plate. I think it would wear out the new friction disc faster.



JerryJ said:


> Remove your shear pins after each season is over with, clean them and reinstall, maybe even grease the shear pin to assure it doesn't seize up. I've seen a few of them actually seize into the shaft, no fun getting them out.


While you have the shear pins out it is a good idea to grease the augers if they have grease fittings on them and give them a few spins around the auger shaft. I usually grease and spin a couple times. This makes sure the grease gets all the way around and prevents the augers from rusting to the shaft.


----------



## JerryJ (Jan 11, 2012)

Shryp said:


> I never liked the idea of scuffing up the drive plate. I think it would wear out the new friction disc faster.
> 
> 
> 
> While you have the shear pins out it is a good idea to grease the augers if they have grease fittings on them and give them a few spins around the auger shaft. I usually grease and spin a couple times. This makes sure the grease gets all the way around and prevents the augers from rusting to the shaft.


As far as the drive plate is concerned I look at it not so much for longevity but initial performance. if you consider the friction wheel should be replaced more frequently than not (per my manual on Cub Cadet) whether we agree or disagree it makes for super gripe or that "clutch" performance during the whole winter.

Of course each person will see his service done his way. Mine is only one of them. IMO not scuffed makes for a slipperier surface.
I think there might be two schools of thought on this one, now I'm curious


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Misc*



Shryp said:


> While you have the shear pins out it is a good idea to grease the augers if they have grease fittings on them and give them a few spins around the auger shaft. I usually grease and spin a couple times. This makes sure the grease gets all the way around and prevents the augers from rusting to the shaft.


I hadn't seen any augers sections with grease zerks on them, good idea if it could be retrofitted. What I did last year was pull the shear bolts, rotated the auger sections about 20 degrees then put some oil in the hole and rotated the auger section to help work it in. Did it a few times and seemed to get quite a bit of oil in there.

When I rebuilt the blowers, I cleaned up the auger shaft and used some industrial paint on the auger shaft first then greased it up good before putting the augers on so the base was there. I had also cleaned up the inside of the auger sections and worked as much of the same paint in there also. Hopefully it will help keep the rust down to a minimum.

On a side note, I'm in the middle of rebuilding a machine right now. Not in the best of condition when I got it, but one thing amazed me - the auger sections weren't frozen onto the auger shaft like some of the other ones I bought last year were. When I tore it down, I found out why. The last person that worked on it must have used a whole tube of antiseize on the auger shaft prior to reassembly. It slid off nice and easy. I hadn't thought about trying that but I'm definitely keeping it in the back of my mind for the future if needed.


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

I prefer to do a leak down test rather than just compression. It gives you a much better picture of the overall health of the engine as far as sealing is concerned. 

I you have greater than 10% leak down you need to find out what part or parts are not performing correctly. If you hear air escaping from the muffler the exhaust valve is not properly seated. If you hear air coming out of the carb the intake valve is not seating properly and if you hear air in the sump when you remove the oil fill cap your rings are not seating properly. 

There will always be some leakage past the rings but the valves should seal solid and no air should be heard escaping from the muffler or carburetor.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Ariens used grease fittings. I am not sure about other brands as I have only worked on a few. My drum style Toro didn't, but those giant drums were hollow inside.

If you look closely at my Ariens you can see 2 grease fittings on each auger on either side of the shear bolts. Funny how I took that picture a couple weeks ago and managed to have them positioned perfectly for this discussion. There is also 1 grease fitting on the left axle behind the wheel for the differential lockout and how the 2 axles slide over each other. That one doesn't need rotated since it turns on its own whenever the axle isn't locked. There is another grease fitting under the bottom belly cover for the small sprocket.


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Zerks*



Shryp said:


> Ariens used grease fittings. I am not sure about other brands as I have only worked on a few. My drum style Toro didn't, but those giant drums were hollow inside.


Is that a short shaft and then the ends of the augers supported by a stub off the bearings? 

That would give enough room to put in zerks without hitting anything. The ones I have, all but one have a full length auger shaft. I don't know that there would be enough material in the sleeve to drill and tap for a zerk unless you welded on a bung and used that to thread into.

It's sure something worth considering, anything to help insure the augers stay free on the shaft would be worth while.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

HCBPH said:


> Is that a short shaft and then the ends of the augers supported by a stub off the bearings?


Nope, just very thick steel. The inside tubes of the augers are at least 1/4" thick. Sorry, I don't have pictures of those from the side view.

Ebay link with pictures of augers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Ariens...124?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c2291a2c


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Zerks*



Shryp said:


> Nope, just very thick steel. The inside tubes of the augers are at least 1/4" thick. Sorry, I don't have pictures of those from the side view.


I think that 1/4" thick center tubes is how they can do it. Most of the ones I have are something like 1/8", really not enough meat in them to drill and tap for a zerk, then be able to seat it without hitting the axel shaft. The idea of welding on some kind a bung to it so that could be drilled and tapped might work. I'll have to think on that one.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Snowmann2011 (Apr 5, 2011)

HCBPH said:


> I think that 1/4" thick center tubes is how they can do it. Most of the ones I have are something like 1/8", really not enough meat in them to drill and tap for a zerk, then be able to seat it without hitting the axel shaft. The idea of welding on some kind a bung to it so that could be drilled and tapped might work. I'll have to think on that one.
> 
> Thanks for the info.


Ive been thinking about this as well. Drilling and tapping it. Or welding some extra metal on there to make it thicker. Worth considering.


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Take a look at K-14-CSBA and K-18-CSBA press in zerks s for 1/8" thick steel

These should work on most any Auger shaft. You wouldn't even need to remove the auger to install them. carefully drill a hole in the auger and drive in.


----------



## JerryJ (Jan 11, 2012)

I have a really dumb question. Have any of you come across any blowers that seem to have short axles?

We came across two of them, two different brands
When we stripped everything for painting we came to the axle and "what is this?" popped up.
As you use the unit to identify left and right, the wheel on the left was fine, but on the other side of the machine the axle barely went into the wheel maybe 2(?) inches worth. 
On the first machine we thought for sure some half minded service tech replaced a previously broken axle with something he had hanging around the shop.

But then we came across the second machine, a week or so later, and a different brand and found the same thing again. The shorter portion was still on the right hand side.

Two different brand machines both from different sources. 

We went to a local supplier (Home Depot has it also) and bought a length of 3/4" bar stock and made our own new axle


----------



## JerryJ (Jan 11, 2012)

*Fuel Stabilzer*

I suppose we could use the brand name of "Stabil" and there might be a few other brands.

I've sort of been a firm believer in the use of fuel stabilzers, especially for those machines that may be parked for off season periods. I honestly don't know that much about the chemistry of a fuel stabilizer and what it does to maintain the fuel to do what it does.
Recently there have been a few of us locally that support its use and another bunch that disagree with its use.
I even searched some unbiased websites that tend to claim fuel stabilizers being useless "else the fuel makers would already have it in the gas when you pump"

Consider the cost of these additives one can understand why they don't do it. Today's manufacturers, be they gas or widgets, don't lean towards quality any more. IMO they tend to lean on advertising (be it true or not) and the bottom line to pacify share holders.

All this still begs the one question. Are fuel stabilizers any good and if so how much? I wonder if they're the same as all these oil additives that we're bombarded with including bogus testimonials.

Your thoughts?


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Misc*

Jerry

I have seen one with a short axel, but then again some idiot cut it off. I did see here one person that had a 2 piece axel and if I remember right, it was short in the wheel hubs. Don't know why they'd do that except if bean counters were involved in the design.

On stabilizers, I've used Stabil and Sea Foam. Biggest thing I'm trying now is using 'non-oxygenated' fuel (non alcohol). It seems to me it's the interaction between gasahol and other things that's the problem, that's why I'm trying non-alcohol gas this year.

If you don't want to use stabilizer, then run everything dry. One other thing I've noticed, the smaller engines run worse on summer blend gasahol than winter blend.

Paul


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

i have not had any problems using stabil


----------



## chevyman_de (Oct 2, 2011)

Snowmann2011 said:


> Drilling and tapping it. Or welding some extra metal on there to make it thicker. Worth considering.


How about drilling and tapping some of these shaft collars for the Zerks and putting them over a hole in the auger tube?









McMaster-Carr

The wrench flats will make drilling them more convenient.
No welding (distortion), easy installation and removal, adequate thread depth...


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

My Hechinger unit has zerks on the shaft.


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

Fuel companies don't add stabilizer because they cater to road vehicles which generally don't sit for long periods like lawn mowers or snowblowers.


----------

