# Ariens/LCT Engine Oil Change



## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

After 5 hours of blowing snow today, I decided that it was time to do my first oil change. The Ariens/LCT engines come equipped with this nifty oil drain tube extension, or so I thought.  The tube wasn't drilled out, so I had an extension of the plug  I had to drain the oil and of course it all ran down the side of the machine. What a mess! Have I mentioned how much I hate working on machinery in the cold?
Anyway, now I'm going to drill out the extension tube, should be fairly simple right? Nope. The worker in China who neglected to drill the tube out completely, also was nice enough to work harden the bottom of the hole (which is doubtless why he quit drilling. Dull or broken bit is my guess) so it didn't drill easy. I have a good drill press, or I would have had a real hard time. I had to drill it out starting under 1/4" and work my way up to 9/64", which is as close as I could get to the original size.
I'm curious to know if any of the other members who bought new Ariens this fall with the LCT engines have run into this issue.


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## TheHolyCannoli (Nov 19, 2013)

That is a real pain. So how did you drain the oil...by tipping the machine to its right and pouring it out from the level-check plug? I think the manual said something like 10hrs before the first oil change, but I'm not going to hit the number for quite awhile. However, I'm not sure if the dealer put in 10w-30 or 5w-30, so I may end up draining and putting in new 10w-30 just to be safe. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to that and let you know if my drain plug is functional.

If my plug is in fact "plugged", I'll likely be requesting a replacement. I can get over a frayed belt (as described in my recent thread), but I' sure as heck not going to be doing any drilling to correct a problem direct from the factory.


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## Garnetmica (Oct 27, 2013)

That's terrible and surprising. I would contact Ariens and complain. I have about 3 hours on my machine and will be doing an oil swap after the next round of clearing. Will let you, the world and Ariens know if my tube is not drilled through.


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

TheHolyCannoli said:


> That is a real pain. So how did you drain the oil...by tipping the machine to its right and pouring it out from the level-check plug? I think the manual said something like 10hrs before the first oil change, but I'm not going to hit the number for quite awhile. However, I'm not sure if the dealer put in 10w-30 or 5w-30, so I may end up draining and putting in new 10w-30 just to be safe. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to that and let you know if my drain plug is functional.
> 
> If my plug is in fact "plugged", I'll likely be requesting a replacement. I can get over a frayed belt (as described in my recent thread), but I' sure as heck not going to be doing any drilling to correct a problem direct from the factory.


There's a plug on the other side as well, but of course there's no way to catch the oil as it runs out, other than to put a pan under the machine and let it run down the side.


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Garnetmica said:


> That's terrible and surprising. I would contact Ariens and complain. I have about 3 hours on my machine and will be doing an oil swap after the next round of clearing. Will let you, the world and Ariens know if my tube is not drilled through.


I'll do that Garnet. It might just be a one off, but they should know about it.


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## Snowmann (Dec 24, 2012)

TheHolyCannoli said:


> That is a real pain. So how did you drain the oil...by tipping the machine to its right and pouring it out from the level-check plug? I think the manual said something like 10hrs before the first oil change, but I'm not going to hit the number for quite awhile. However, I'm not sure if the dealer put in 10w-30 or 5w-30, so I may end up draining and putting in new 10w-30 just to be safe. Maybe tomorrow I'll get to that and let you know if my drain plug is functional.
> 
> If my plug is in fact "plugged", I'll likely be requesting a replacement. I can get over a frayed belt (as described in my recent thread), but I' sure as heck not going to be doing any drilling to correct a problem direct from the factory.


 Do NOT use 10W-30. The engine will be damaged at cold start below a certain temperature. Use 5W-30 or, better yet, 0W-30.


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## TheHolyCannoli (Nov 19, 2013)

Snowmann said:


> Do NOT use 10W-30. The engine will be damaged at cold start below a certain temperature. Use 5W-30 or, better yet, 0W-30.


That seems a bit odd. Manufacturer recommends 10w for ambient temps above 0deg, 5w for between -20 and 30deg. I've never seen anything recommending 0w. It rarely dips below zero in Connecticut, and with storing the machine in the garage, I'd be shocked if the engine ever has an initial startup temp below 20deg.


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## Snowmann (Dec 24, 2012)

TheHolyCannoli said:


> That seems a bit odd. Manufacturer recommends 10w for ambient temps above 0deg, 5w for between -20 and 30deg. I've never seen anything recommending 0w. It rarely dips below zero in Connecticut, and with storing the machine in the garage, I'd be shocked if the engine ever has an initial startup temp below 20deg.


 The "range" you are referring to is generic and applicable to most or all OPE type engines (this range would be the same for summer products like a tiller). If you do not get below 0F you probably won't damage the engine. If it gets below that one time, how would you plan on remembering to change the oil? The engine will start better with lower nominal viscosity oil as well (due to splash lube). Most people are simply better off using 5W-30 or 0W-30. There is no upside to use 10W-30. Tecumseh always recommended 0W multi-grade oil for cold startability in very cold regions of Canada when they were still in business. No one knew snow engines better than them.


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Snowmann said:


> The "range" you are referring to is generic and applicable to most or all OPE type engines (this range would be the same for summer products like a tiller). If you do not get below 0F you probably won't damage the engine. If it gets below that one time, how would you plan on remembering to change the oil? The engine will start better with lower nominal viscosity oil as well (due to splash lube). Most people are simply better off using 5W-30 or 0W-30. There is no upside to use 10W-30. Tecumseh always recommended 0W multi-grade oil for cold startability in very cold regions of Canada when they were still in business. No one knew snow engines better than them.


Good to know Snowmann. I put in Mobil 1 5W30. Being a Canadian boy I guess I had better switch to the 0W30.


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## ken53 (Nov 7, 2013)

Hi Blue Hill
Sorry to here about your drain tube. That can dampen some of the fun with a new machine. FWIW I have heard good things about the Ariens LCT engines.

I just checked mine. (414cc LCT)
I loosened it just enough to get a couple of drops of oil out. Mine must be OK. 
The plug was really really tight. It really strained the little 12mm wrench. 

Even with the extension drain tube on, it still seems clumsy with the tire being so close. The wheels come off very easy, so I might take off that right wheel when changing oil. I have 4 more hours to go yet. (-:

Ken


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## TheHolyCannoli (Nov 19, 2013)

Snowmann said:


> The "range" you are referring to is generic and applicable to most or all OPE type engines (this range would be the same for summer products like a tiller). If you do not get below 0F you probably won't damage the engine. If it gets below that one time, how would you plan on remembering to change the oil? The engine will start better with lower nominal viscosity oil as well (due to splash lube). Most people are simply better off using 5W-30 or 0W-30. There is no upside to use 10W-30. Tecumseh always recommended 0W multi-grade oil for cold startability in very cold regions of Canada when they were still in business. No one knew snow engines better than them.


Fair enough...but what happens when ambient goes just above 30?


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

Mine was drilled out on my "Briggs" 420cc. I use German Castrol 0w30.....

I also start the motor at a low RPM's to let it warm up before I go WOT.


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

ken53 said:


> Hi Blue Hill
> Sorry to here about your drain tube. That can dampen some of the fun with a new machine. FWIW I have heard good things about the Ariens LCT engines.
> 
> I just checked mine. (414cc LCT)
> ...


Oh crap Ken!  I scratched around in my junk for quite a while before I found a container skinny enough to fit between the tire and the frame.  I never even thought about just popping the wheel off. 
Thanks for checking your extension for me. Good to know it wasn't everybody's problem. 
Larry


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## Garnetmica (Oct 27, 2013)

These are helpful in tight drain areas: Form-A-Funnel® Flexible Draining Tool


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## Runner50 (Jan 21, 2013)

JRHAWK9 said:


> Mine was drilled out on my "Briggs" 420cc. I use German Castrol 0w30.....
> 
> I also start the motor at a low RPM's to let it warm up before I go WOT.


Is that what the manual recommends for starting? I ask because the manual for my engine (Tecumseh 9.25hp OHV) says to put the throttle at Fast for cold starting.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

Runner50 said:


> Is that what the manual recommends for starting? I ask because the manual for my engine (Tecumseh 9.25hp OHV) says to put the throttle at Fast for cold starting.


I believe they tell you to do that as it makes starting easier. I just don't like the idea of an ice cold engine immediately going from 0 to 3,700 rpm's in a split second.


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## TheHolyCannoli (Nov 19, 2013)

I just checked my extended drain plug...got a drop of oil from it, so its definitely drilled.


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## Runner50 (Jan 21, 2013)

JRHAWK9 said:


> I believe they tell you to do that as it makes starting easier. I just don't like the idea of an ice cold engine immediately going from 0 to 3,700 rpm's in a split second.


I hear ya. I throttle it back immediately after it starts to let it warm up.


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## Noovuss (Nov 24, 2013)

You'll be pumping water?



ken53 said:


> Hi Blue Hill
> Sorry to here about your drain tube. That can dampen some of the fun with a new machine. FWIW I have heard good things about the Ariens LCT engines.
> 
> I just checked mine. (414cc LCT)
> ...





TheHolyCannoli said:


> Fair enough...but what happens when ambient goes just above 30?


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

JRHAWK9 said:


> I believe they tell you to do that as it makes starting easier. I just don't like the idea of an ice cold engine immediately going from 0 to 3,700 rpm's in a split second.


I always idle my engines for a few minutes if I am starting them when outside in really cold weather. With most engines the most wear occurs just before the oil begins to circulate. On a small air cooled engines do not have pressurized oil pumps like car engines do and it can take a minute or so for the oil to fully circulate so warming them up is a good idea because they are splash lubricated and if you rail hard on them when stone cold and the oil is thick especially conventional oil it could make your engine wear faster.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

From an engines perspective, is there really any meaningful difference between 2,000 rpm and 3,700 rpm, at startup?

I dont know..im just wondering about it! 
both are a *really really fast*! 
I dont know if really makes any real difference..

Scot


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## Runner50 (Jan 21, 2013)

I don't know either, but there must be a reason the Tecumseh manual says to put the throttle on Fast on cold start ups.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

I try to start mine under 2,000rpm's.....between idle and 2,000 rpm's. 

It may not make any difference, but I do know it's not going to hurt anything. We don't start our cars with our foot on the gas pedal keeping the motor spinning at 3,700rpm's when cold....and they have a pressurized oil system. I also idle down the motor when I turn the gas valve off to idle the carb out of gas.

I do think the only reason they say start on full throttle is for ease of starting, although my 420cc "Briggs" starts on the first pull just off idle. It's will start at idle but because it has an automatic compression release which kicks off at ~800rpm's, it will run at very low RPM's until you give it enough gas to kick off the compression release.


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

Wow! Thanks for the post, I quickly ran out and checked mine....LCT 291 CC w/side drain tube. Mine is OK, oil came out right away. Thanks for the tip, and sorry to hear about your trouble.


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## NYViKing (Mar 28, 2018)

i have small engine machines i bought new 20 years ago. i use synthetic oil 10w30 in all of them. don't even change it every year. still running like brand new. never even thought about starting at low rpm and probably never will. do what works for you i guess, but i always follow the manual. to the OP , couldn't you have unscrewed the drain tube and put another one in? $4? i've had short extension tubes on some machines and just screwed on a longer one for easier oil changes. i'm getting my new ariens platinum 30" on wednesday so i'll check it then. sorry you had to go through that. bs


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

You realize this is a 5-year old thread?


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