# Sticky  Snowblower Checklist



## JLawrence08648

This is a checklist of all the items I cover when I refurbish a snowblower for sale.

I also use it as a guide when I give someone else's snowblower a major tuneup, however, I give them the list and let them pick and choose, 2nd, 3rd, 4th year are different, and less, and quicker!

Items such as fuel lines are checked, not replaced, unless looking old, cracked, or the black comes off on my hand

Snowblower Checklist

Make: 
Model:
Serial: 
Date:
Notes
All parts are extra

Check and Set Tire Air Pressure
Check wheel bearings or play in wheel/axle bushings
Remove auger shear bolts and lubricate with Never-Seize or synthetic grease, parts extra
Grease Auger
Check auger bearings or bushings
Check auger gearbox oil
Replace or Adjust Skid Shoes (use Anti-Seize or synthetic grease on bolts)
Check condition of scraper bar
Check condition of the Spark Plug and put graphite Never-Seize on the threads
Check condition of the Fuel Line
Check operation of the primer bulb and hose
Check adjustments on Carb, idle, low & high mixtures
Check RPMs at fast throttle and idle and adjust if necessary
Inspect pull starter mechanism and rope, adjust tension or replace if needed
Remove bottom pan to check the condition of the friction plate and friction drive disk
Clean the friction plate and friction drive wheel
Lubricate some controls, cables, chain, gears, gears are lubricated using only motorcycle chain spray oil
Clean and lubricate hex drive axle, check bushings or bearings
Grease the fitting at/near friction disk if it exists
Remove belt cover, check condition of drive and auger belts for wear and proper tension, replace if needed, parts extra
Check auger cable condition and tension
Check drive cable condition and tension
Lubricate chute mechanism
Check Carb, Adjust if needed or if there is an adjustment
Drain old fuel, add Carburetor Cleaner and Fuel Stabilizer
Change engine oil using ONLY Synthetic oil
Remove wheels, clean rust from axles and apply anti-seize or synthetic grease to prevent the failure to remove the wheels
Check the condition of the Fuel Line, Shut-off Valve, and Filter and replace if necessary
Check headlight bulb
Test and lubricate Differential Lock if applicable
Check and adjust valve lash (cold engine)
Test auger interlock if exists
Test drive interlock lever if exists
Clean and Degrease housing, shell, wheels and control panel
Test traction drive force and speeds

Tips
Check the oil often
Buy only as much fuel as you will use, Engine manufacturer Briggs & Stratton says Gas goes stale in 3 weeks, After
1 month pour the unused gas in your car and wait until the next snow storm to buy more
Use fresh gas treated with a fuel carb cleaner and a gas stabilizer such as Stabil
Periodically tighten up nuts and bolts, mainly fastening the auger housing to the tractor body
Check the the shear bolts, NEVER use a hardware bolt instead of a shear bolt
Take care of small issues ASAP before they become bigger
Shut off the fuel petcok after each use if your machine has one
If the chute or auger clogs, turn the snowblower off!, Remove the spark plug wire

At the End of Season Storage - Start the engine, warm up, drain the fuel tank, restart and run the engine starving it of
fuel choking, drain the carb bowl


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## Big Ed

Are you sure you covered everything?


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## orangputeh

I dont refurb machines


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## aldfam4

Thorough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## JLawrence08648

Lol. It's had several revisions! It's an enhanced version that rod330 emailed me 9/12/19.

Now it's just a list however I anticipate adding lines and check boxes with a space for notes and comments after each line item.


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## Yanmar Ronin

I 'stickied' this so it'll stay on top for easy reference.  🍻


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## orangputeh

I would love to see @rod330 operation in person. He's a real pro and does excellent work. Anyone who buys a snowblower from him is getting a great deal. ( even if bought at top dollar ).


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## orangputeh

recommendations 

Check oil often


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## ST1300

JL-- Just curious, do you really inspect the pull starter mechanism and rope twice? Or when you remove the belt cover and check the condition of belts ---why not check the belts for tension and wear at the same time? 
I'm not being critical, it's just that I look at what I read. Giving a customer this list could cause confusion! 
It is a very comprehensive list.


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## rod330

JLawrence08648 thanks for posting. I've also updated my old 9/12/19 list so I'll compare your list to my current one to see if there's anything else I might recommend. I find the list helpful to keep track of what's been done to a machine as I typically have 2 or more in progress at any point in time. Showing the completed list to a potential buyer can close the sale. As orangputeh stated, almost nobody sells a used machine that's had comprehensive maintenance.

orangputeh, thank you for your kind words but I think you are the maestro of snowblower repair and refurbishment. Not only do you go above and beyond, I think tracked Hondas are far more complicated than my traditional wheeled Ariens.


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## JLawrence08648

ST1300 said:


> JL-- Just curious, do you really inspect the pull starter mechanism and rope twice? Or when you remove the belt cover and check the condition of belts ---why not check the belts for tension and wear at the same time?
> I'm not being critical, it's just that I look at what I read. Giving a customer this list could cause confusion!
> It is a very comprehensive list.


I'm confused, the starter rope and belt cover is on 2 different sides of the engine.

You are right, twice starter rope and twice belts, they need to be removed.


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## ChrisJ

I see a few duplicates.
Checking and adjusting cables.
Checking and adjusting engine rpm.
Primer bulb


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## orangputeh

rod330 said:


> JLawrence08648 thanks for posting. I've also updated my old 9/12/19 list so I'll compare your list to my current one to see if there's anything else I might recommend. I find the list helpful to keep track of what's been done to a machine as I typically have 2 or more in progress at any point in time. Showing the completed list to a potential buyer can close the sale. As orangputeh stated, almost nobody sells a used machine that's had comprehensive maintenance.
> 
> orangputeh, thank you for your kind words but I think you are the maestro of snowblower repair and refurbishment. Not only do you go above and beyond, I think tracked Hondas are far more complicated than my traditional wheeled Ariens.


sorry, did not mean to wake you from hibernation. Have seen pics of your shop and tool collection. Maybe someday when I go back to visit friends and my home town in Massachusetts I can stop by for a tour.


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## JLawrence08648

There are duplicates. My mistake. I released this too early. It was a quick revision of an original and I wanted to submit to the forum asap for someone who had just asked for something like this.

My original is different and not as inclusive.

My thoughts were to have two separate lists, a shorter one of must Do's and a second more thorough.

I'll correct and resubmit in the next few days, possibly tonight. I should not have jumped so quickly.


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## Bob O

Thanks for posting this list. I find it comprehensive and very helpful.


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## Tony-chicago

Thinking of storing my snowblowers and kids at his shop.

Then next winter I can pick up my perfect shape snowblower...


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## JLawrence08648

I've updated the Snowblower Checklist and the attached file, removing the duplicate lines, adding some things, changing some of the wording, adding some suggestions from members.


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## Bearguy69

JLawrence08648 said:


> This is a checklist of all the items I cover when I refurbish a snowblower for sale.
> 
> I also use it as a guide when I give someone else's snowblower a major tuneup, however, I give them the list and let them pick and choose, 2nd, 3rd, 4th year are different, and less, and quicker!
> 
> Items such as fuel lines are checked, not replaced, unless looking old, cracked, or the black comes off on my hand
> 
> Snowblower Checklist
> 
> Make:
> Model:
> Serial:
> Date:
> Notes
> All parts are extra
> 
> Check and Set Tire Air Pressure
> Check wheel bearings or play in wheel/axle bushings
> Remove auger shear bolts and lubricate with Never-Seize or synthetic grease, parts extra
> Grease Auger
> Check auger bearings or bushings
> Check auger gearbox oil
> Replace or Adjust Skid Shoes (use Anti-Seize or synthetic grease on bolts)
> Check condition of scraper bar
> Check condition of the Spark Plug and put graphite Never-Seize on the threads
> Check condition of the Fuel Line
> Check operation of the primer bulb and hose
> Check adjustments on Carb, idle, low & high mixtures
> Check RPMs at fast throttle and idle and adjust if necessary
> Inspect pull starter mechanism and rope, adjust tension or replace if needed
> Remove bottom pan to check the condition of the friction plate and friction drive disk
> Clean the friction plate and friction drive wheel
> Lubricate some controls, cables, chain, gears, gears are lubricated using only motorcycle chain spray oil
> Clean and lubricate hex drive axle, check bushings or bearings
> Grease the fitting at/near friction disk if it exists
> Remove belt cover, check condition of drive and auger belts for wear and proper tension, replace if needed, parts extra
> Check auger cable condition and tension
> Check drive cable condition and tension
> Lubricate chute mechanism
> Check Carb, Adjust if needed or if there is an adjustment
> Drain old fuel, add Carburetor Cleaner and Fuel Stabilizer
> Change engine oil using ONLY Synthetic oil
> Remove wheels, clean rust from axles and apply anti-seize or synthetic grease to prevent the failure to remove the wheels
> Check the condition of the Fuel Line, Shut-off Valve, and Filter and replace if necessary
> Check headlight bulb
> Test and lubricate Differential Lock if applicable
> Check and adjust valve lash (cold engine)
> Test auger interlock if exists
> Test drive interlock lever if exists
> Clean and Degrease housing, shell, wheels and control panel
> Test traction drive force and speeds
> 
> Tips
> Check the oil often
> Buy only as much fuel as you will use, Engine manufacturer Briggs & Stratton says Gas goes stale in 3 weeks, After
> 1 month pour the unused gas in your car and wait until the next snow storm to buy more
> Use fresh gas treated with a fuel carb cleaner and a gas stabilizer such as Stabil
> Periodically tighten up nuts and bolts, mainly fastening the auger housing to the tractor body
> Check the the shear bolts, NEVER use a hardware bolt instead of a shear bolt
> Take care of small issues ASAP before they become bigger
> Shut off the fuel petcok after each use if your machine has one
> If the chute or auger clogs, turn the snowblower off!, Remove the spark plug wire
> 
> At the End of Season Storage - Start the engine, warm up, drain the fuel tank, restart and run the engine starving it of
> fuel choking, drain the carb bowl


Outside of what the snowblower items what you posted is or should be common sense for small engine maintenance and care. Living on the coast sea level never does snow. But used a mower quite frequently. But those are great tips


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## meierjn

Gerat list! Thanks for sharing.


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