# Platinum 24" SHO EFI problem?



## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

Great topic for my 1st post...I just bought an Ariens 24 SHO EFI that Snow Blowers Direct had as a scratch & dent discount (last one)...It was delivered yesterday...The packaging of the machine on 2 pallets was trashed & missing one of the handlebar bolts, washer, & locknut. This was not a huge deal as I contacted them immediately. It ran well enough to load up into my pickup & bring home from my work where it was delivered...Today I went out for a test run...Not good.

Here is my issue:
It seems like not a big difference when dialing between IDLE-EFFICIENCY-POWER except seems to run rougher on POWER...definitely NOT revving up as it should...The manuals that came with the machine had no troubleshooting code diagnostics BUT I did find online the code shown is a Code 22...2 blink pause 2 blink red code that shows to be Engine Temperature Sensor Failure.

I regret NOT buying one from my local dealer but I would have had to wait until next season (they did not have this higher powered model in a 24" w\ EFI @ the end of our record 56" February snow)...and now I'm faced with bringing it in to them as I have NO IDEA HOW THE ONLINE DEALER CAN HELP ME.

Anyone have any positive warranty experience with Snow Blowers Direct? What should I expect them to do for me? 

Dave


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

Some folks have had good luck some have not. If your having this much trouble already it may have gotten to the point where you need to ask for a new one with the problems you already have. 

I would ask to have them for a refund and send the old one back they have done that previously from what I remember of it. 

You should call them on Monday morning and tell them what condition the pallets were in when you accepted the freight load.

I have no idea how long it would take to get your snow mule back from the dealer as many of the dealers frown on helping a home owner that did not buy it from.
Some of the dealers do not have the equipment to perform a computer search for problems to perform an analysis of the computers on the new machines.

If it was damaged in shipment you should have not accepted it and they would have to send you one that was undamaged.

I guess the Samsonite gorillas have graduated from suitcases to snow blowers.

Sorry to see that you have all this trouble. When you call you should ask for a refund of your money and arrange to have the snow blower sent back as it was obviously damaged in shipment. 

Your snow mule may be put at the end of the line to be fixed as this has happened before when a snow mule was purchased somewhere other than the local dealer.
We have seen this with the plugging chute issues for the new Hondas as it takes a complaint to honda and the dealer to obtain a replacement chute and spout and some of the owners have to wait 6+ weeks to have the work done for simple chute replacement as the new chutes have to be ordered and then the work needs to be scheduled to do the repair of replacing the old chute.

I know this is of no help to you but until you call snow blowers direct or call the local dealer to see if it can be looked at soon your stuck.

Any freight that has exposed damage is always suspect as the damage may have affected the onboard computer on the snow blower. 

If your close to the Canadian border checking with a Yamaha dealer over the border may be a better option as the 824's and 1028's have no computer to mess things up.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Sorry to hear about the trouble. Maybe they could get you a new sensor, though I wouldn't count on it. If Ariens pays for warranty work, I don't really understand why it matters if you didn't buy from the dealer you call. But regardless, that seems to be the way things work.

I would definitely spend a few minutes tracing out wires from the ECU box to the engine. Ideally, identify the temperature sensor, and check for any loose/damaged connections. Maybe you get lucky, and a plug jiggled loose. 

leonz, as it was a scratch & dent discounted machine, that may impact swapping to a new machine, etc. Heck, maybe they knew how it would arrive, maybe that was the scratch & dent before it even went on the truck, I have no idea. 

I would certainly talk to SBD. But might start also asking your local dealer what they could do for you, in case SBD's answer isn't ideal.


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

RedOctobyr said:


> Sorry to hear about the trouble. Maybe they could get you a new sensor, though I wouldn't count on it. If Ariens pays for warranty work, I don't really understand why it matters if you didn't buy from the dealer you call. But regardless, that seems to be the way things work.
> 
> I would definitely spend a few minutes tracing out wires from the ECU box to the engine. Ideally, identify the temperature sensor, and check for any loose/damaged connections. Maybe you get lucky, and a plug jiggled loose.
> 
> ...



So stumbling across the Service Manual online I noticed a non-code section in troubleshooting the EFI where the symptoms of no rpm change with potentiometer (throttle) turning, to ohm out the potentiometer for functionality...preparing for that I then noticed that although the potentiometer #3 (red) wire was in the correct spot...the potentiometer 2 (green/white) & 1 (black/white) were inserted reversely @ the 14 pin ECU connector...So I felt brave enough to reverse the 2 wires...Tah-Dah! Runs like a raped ape...though with a slight back-fire when turning down to idle...I'll continue the thorough check-out tomorrow...I'm whipped. My advice: BUY LOCAL! :surprise:


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

YAHOO!!!! Glad you got her running.. better...


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

A slight afterfire is normal on a lot of engines when dropping revs quickly at closed throttle. Easy to end up with a little bit of unburned fuel thrown into the exhaust and it then lights off in there with a bang.


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## tonylumps (Jul 31, 2018)

May be buy a scratch and dent and First year EFI snowblower local. But I personally Put my Carbed Platinum together and have no problems.I would never even think about Buying that EFI online or from a Dealer until the bugs get worked out .


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Solid diagnosis. I’m surprised to hear about wires in the wrong cavity. Nice job catching it.


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## Xilbus (Nov 30, 2018)

Congrats on finding the fix. Did you have to solder the wires or do they clip in?

Was there a good discount because of the dent or scratch?

You should post pics of your new machine.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Good find on the reversed wires!!!


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

What ticks me off is they offered it up as a scratch and dent at near full price...this had to be a factory snafu and would have been returned as non operational...not scratched. They SUPPOSEDLY double check everything prior to shipping it out. That’s a big lie.They dumped it on me. Btw they don’t have any more in stock. I DID get the last one. They owe me.


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

Xilbus said:


> Congrats on finding the fix. Did you have to solder the wires or do they clip in?
> 
> Was there a good discount because of the dent or scratch?
> 
> You should post pics of your new machine.


No soldering just snap together Molex connector...tough part is when connector is separated all 9 wires popped out with little space to get them back in...had to ohm a few wires (2 blacks & 2 reds) to verify which black or red wire I was actually working with (I chose to identify the easier to find battery connector wires)... I'm embarrassed to say I got a WHOPPING $25 OFF for all my trouble...Call me MURPHY.


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

*Some pics of the wiring...*

Maybe this can help someone else...Here is a picture of the Platinum SHO EFI, the location of the ECU, the 14 connector plug showing the green wire w/ white stripe in the wrong location (disabling the potentiometer/throttle knob), & the 14 pin wire connector schematic from the service manual that saved my bacon:


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Congrats on the great fix! And thanks for sharing the findings, and pics of the machine & connectors. 

A bit disappointing, since this sounds like it was wrong from the factory, as you said. Makes you wonder how Ariens tested it. 

Sounds like SBD should have take off more than $25. Especially if maybe you explained to them that your service work saved them from having to take it back.


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

RedOctobyr said:


> Congrats on the great fix! And thanks for sharing the findings, and pics of the machine & connectors.
> 
> A bit disappointing, since this sounds like it was wrong from the factory, as you said. Makes you wonder how Ariens tested it.
> 
> Sounds like SBD should have take off more than $25. Especially if maybe you explained to them that your service work saved them from having to take it back.


Snow Blowers Direct also states when they have a scratch & dent that they make sure it's all good, except the scratch & dent: "Scratch & Dent Model* *Scratches on the frame & handlebar *Shipped to another customer and returned to us, cosmetic only, will not affect operation" which sounded OK to me...It wasn't OK. It did start right up every time for me, just didn't want to power up any more than that. I was thinking that at least this "slug" was quiet. Snow Blowers Direct was just closing on Friday when I called them on a missing carriage bolt...I'll have to call them on Monday morning to explain the rest of it...True test for an on-line supplier. Thanks for the Forum to vent my displeasure...Right now I'll give them a shot @ making it right. Had a full day battling with it. But HEY, I'm learning about an EFI snowblower!


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

I am amazed those terminals are not in a weatherproof connector. Automotive electrical has used weatherpack type connectors for 30 yrs.


If this machine was mine, I would remove the connector, and fill the terminals with dielectric lubricant. (not dielectric grease, that is for spark plug boots) The lube will also prevent terminal fretting. That leads to a poor electrical connection.


Cheap insurance, a GM dealer should have it if you don't deal with amazon. We use this as per GM on air bag terminals that tend to have a poor connection from vibration and moisture. Highly recommend.


https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-12377900-Dielectric-Lubricant/dp/B000QINNZA


link about fretting


http://www.vestest.com/Termina-Fretting.pdf


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I'd never heard of dielectric lubricant, rather than dielectric grease. But I'd agree that putting *something* on the connection terminals seems like a good idea. I'd have used dielectric grease, since that's what I have, and I didn't know there was something different. But anything should help avoid corrosion. 

It might also be worth mentioning your wiring find to Ariens. 95% of people would not have taken the time and diligence to identify the actual problem. One way or another, Ariens would have ended up paying, both for repair work, and in reputation/word of mouth. If it was assembled wrong at the factory and not sufficiently tested, that seems like something they should know about. Proper engine & controls operation doesn't seem like an unreasonable thing to check for.


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## chargin (Mar 29, 2015)

Once the consumer puts gas in it, no online place takes it back.

They would send you to the service guy in your area.

I think if they were to gas it up it would be considered a used blower although not sure on that.

I bought my blower from Snowblowers direct in December with no problems.

I feel from what I am reading on many of these threads is people who buy EFI are Beta testers without the price breaks Beta testers should get.


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

chargin said:


> I feel from what I am reading on many of these threads is people who buy EFI are Beta testers without the price breaks Beta testers should get.


+1

That's the conclusion I have arrived at too.

Looking at the specs for the Platinum 24 SHO and the Platinum 24 SHO EFI, the torque is the same, the snow-blowing tons per hour is the same, so I don't see the advantage. Plus, if the carb version quits working I have a prayer of being able to fix it myself because I know how the carb and ignition work. And it's $300 more!

I don't see that I'm getting anything extra for that $300.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The governor can hold RPM better than a mechanical governor. And perhaps they'll be more resistant to issues from fuel degrading in the system, though I don't think there's enough of them out there yet to really say for sure. 

I agree that, for now, a carb would still be my choice.


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

I would steer clear of efi. All connectors of the efi should be sealed weather pak connectors as efi sensor outputs are usually a narrow range of ohms, mV, or mA any external resistance in circuit will cause performance problems . Can’t see that machine running 20 or even 10 years later. Especially when it needs a charged battery to run efi to even start. I’ll take a carb over complexity. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

groomerz said:


> I would steer clear of efi. All connectors of the efi should be sealed weather pak connectors as efi sensor outputs are usually a narrow range of ohms, mV, or mA any external resistance in circuit will cause performance problems . Can’t see that machine running 20 or even 10 years later. Especially when it needs a charged battery to run efi to even start. I’ll take a carb over complexity.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





I'm with the OP for fuel injection. It's all we work on in the automotive side of the shop. Has to be better...LOL!


My dad bought a brand new 1968 VW squareback with Bosch FI. One of the first production electronic systems by an OEM.


It was a nightmare. Techs did not understand it, or even how to fix. But here we are 51 years later, and FI is on every vehicle. 



I sure would give it a try, and don't be so hard on the OP. 



FI for small engines is not going away anytime soon.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

I'm not sure that the fact that a lot of techs look at EFI and cramp up is a fault of the technology as much as laziness and unwillingness to get the correct training to stay current. At the risk of sounding redundant, I see the EFI system as having a lot *less* that can go wrong compared to all the mechanical stuff in a carb and mechanical gov system. Just because folks are comfortable with the "old way" does not necessarily make it better, just familiar . . .


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

tadawson said:


> I'm not sure that the fact that a lot of techs look at EFI and cramp up is a fault of the technology as much as laziness and unwillingness to get the correct training to stay current. At the risk of sounding redundant, I see the EFI system as having a lot *less* that can go wrong compared to all the mechanical stuff in a carb and mechanical gov system. Just because folks are comfortable with the "old way" does not necessarily make it better, just familiar . . .


 Flip flop the technology, and... 

No one here in a car repair shop has a clue about carburetors. 

trust me I work with them. 



At least these new techs maybe will have a clue about FI, and can read a DVOM.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

tadawson said:


> I'm not sure that the fact that a lot of techs look at EFI and cramp up is a fault of the technology as much as laziness and unwillingness to get the correct training to stay current. At the risk of sounding redundant, I see the EFI system as having a lot *less* that can go wrong compared to all the mechanical stuff in a carb and mechanical gov system. Just because folks are comfortable with the "old way" does not necessarily make it better, just familiar . . .


I understand what you're saying, and in X years we may look back at this and chuckle at being concerned about EFI. 

But despite a limited qty of EFI machines on the forum, there have been several threads about issues. Now, this pales with the # of carb-trouble threads, no question! But a carb can be cleaned with common tools. And many can be outright replaced for ~$20 or so. 

While the EFI threads have to sometimes resort to swapping parts (even at the dealer, where perhaps they'd be able to test parts to see what's wrong) to try and sort out the problem. And replacement parts (fuel pump, etc) sound pretty expensive. 

In a way, EFI makes me think of a hydrostatic transmission, vs friction disk. Awesome when they work, with nice benefits. But when something *does* go wrong, uh-oh. Time will tell how things will play out. I don't doubt that they'll get them ironed out, so that issues are rare, and the systems are very reliable. But it still feels to me like we're a bit early in that process. I wouldn't jump in right now, but that's OK, nobody needs my "blessing" to buy one


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

I dunno . . .it doesn't sound like it would take much to test. Temp sensor, use a DVM. Speed doesn't even have a specific sensor - they just monitor the RPM specific frequency of what is coming off the stator. Fuel pump - add power, does it flow? About the only two things with any challenge would be the injector and the throttle servo. Based on the docs and the throttle being stated to be PWM controlled, that screams to me to be basically an application of radio controlled model servo technology, and you can see flow from the injector. Couple that with an ECU that gives fault codes without tools or equipment . . . I dunno, but let's just say it doesn't scare me, and I do wish I had found an EFI machine instead of my carbed Plat 24 . . . Seems like most of the issues I have read about have been simple things like loose plugs and the one oddball that was miswired (which isn't really a failure, but rather an assembly error . . . IE won't happen again). Not sure I want to take the $$$ beating to trade what I have and change, but have definitely thought about it. About the only real downside I see is parts cost, and waiting for the dealers to stock them . . .

Perhaps if I owned one I would feel differently . . .


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## russ01915 (Dec 18, 2013)

Is it worth buying from an internet dealer? Thank God DWB1957 was capable of handling this on his own.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

My local offered the same price as the internet dealer - they just didn't stock them, and I did not have the time to wait. The issue now is if I want to take the $$$ beating to make the change . . . and, unless I wait until winter, I'll likely end up paying shipping as well, unless I can swing a way to pick it up in Brillion . . . 



And I had that discussion with my *other* local dealer (the one charging over list - not sure how they survive) but they indicated that they don't have an issue with service on stuff bought elsewhere - service $$$ are service $$$ . . . Never asked the other, since we have bought all our machines from them anyhoo . . .


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

Good points made. I wish my crystal ball was working to see what cost of owner ship in 10 years is carb vs efi. 

op showed unsealed connectors to control box. Just seems cheap and not well thought out for an ariens machine that is exposed to water and salt. Maybe on Chinese efi blower. Small engine carbs are simple not complicated devices and cheap to replace. Control box, TPS, fuel pump, injector, crank sensor , temp sensor, battery, high pressure fuel lines all$$$ 

I don’t see the ownership value vs performance in efi or a carb “YET”





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

groomerz said:


> Good points made. I wish my crystal ball was working to see what cost of owner ship in 10 years is carb vs efi.
> 
> op showed unsealed connectors to control box. Just seems cheap and not well thought out for an ariens machine that is exposed to water and salt. Maybe on Chinese efi blower. Small engine carbs are simple not complicated devices and cheap to replace. Control box, TPS, fuel pump, injector, crank sensor , temp sensor, battery, high pressure fuel lines all$$$
> 
> ...


Note that the ECU is tucked up under the dash. I would not expect much crud to be able to get to it, and for me, the question is 'what's salt'? We have very little use for it . . . And on the other side of the coin, considering what retained water in a connector can do, there may be an argument for an open connector, since if a sealed one got wet and retained the moisture, that could be worse that letting it air dry. Kinda depends what gets in, I guess, and for me it would be pure clean water/snow and not much else . . . 

And, again at the risk of being redundant, a large part of my interest is an actual throttle rather than the dumbed down crap that small engines have devolved to over the years . . . 'on' and 'off' doesn't cut it for me . . .


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## Bluejoe (Nov 29, 2016)

Hello Members. I think the price of scratch and dent should be several hundred dollars off a perfect one and then get told what type of damage. I like the idea of EFI it should make the engine start and run way more efficient then manual carb governor system. But there is still fuel that is used. Fuel goes bad, cheap fuel being used, dirty gas cans, leaving fuel over the season. The left over fuel dirty carburetor is one problem. Another problem is never changing the oil , low oil or barely no oil. It gums up like sludge. If polymer plastic governor wheels are used they will deteriorate mimicking a bad carb. Im going to say some young mechanics today just want to rely on their computers and code readers to tell them everything. They don’t do old school diagnostic work. Example my ex brother in law had trouble with his truck. Stalling problems. The mechanic hooked up computer cost $50 dollars automatically then told him it was a sensor and some other things. Mechanic change out at cost of $1200 dollars. Well the real problem was the fuel pump and when it cooled down it worked for awhile. The following week he barely got it back in shop. I originally told him that it sounds like a bad fuel pump. Well they Changed the fuel pump after doing a fuel pressure test. It cost another $800 dollars. They said they gave him a break for the repair. My shop downsized and dropped several brands including Ariens. We are authorized Toro dealer along with Stihl, Redmax, several others. We have not had any EFI Ariens models come in for repairs. But they are probably still under warranty from the dealer they purchased.


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

Just to update...last snow of the season last night so I’ve had the blower out 3-4 times in the last week. It’s working great since the wire swap. I did order some dielectric lube to address the connector (it definitely had something in the connectors when I pulled it apart). I emailed SnowBlowers Direct and have gotten no response. Really doesn’t matter to me now...over it.

I do like the power ramping in the efficiency cycle, if it were a carb model I would be using way more fuel @ full throttle...thanks.


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## russ01915 (Dec 18, 2013)

DWB1957 said:


> I do like the power ramping in the efficiency cycle, *if it were a carb model I would be using way more fuel @ full throttle*...thanks.


How did you come to this conclusion? Mileage is improved on automotive applications, but on a small single cylinder engine we're talking minimal insignificant savings. They missed calculated the savings by the way they designed the gas tank. It is way too small.


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

russ01915 said:


> DWB1957 said:
> 
> 
> > I do like the power ramping in the efficiency cycle, *if it were a carb model I would be using way more fuel @ full throttle*...thanks.
> ...


Ohhh, just trying to put a positive spin on it.😬


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

russ01915 said:


> How did you come to this conclusion? Mileage is improved on automotive applications, but on a small single cylinder engine we're talking minimal insignificant savings. They missed calculated the savings by the way they designed the gas tank. It is way too small.


Ariens suggests and supports runnimg the EFI at less than full throttle (the 'efficiency' range) as opposed to the full throttle/idle only on the carbed engine, so the potential fuel savings should be obvious. I'm not retreading it here, but Ariens specifically states that use at less that full throttle is fine in the EFI blower manual (links in the thread on that topic . . .).


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## russ01915 (Dec 18, 2013)

tadawson said:


> Ariens suggests and supports runnimg the EFI at less than full throttle (the 'efficiency' range) as opposed to the full throttle/idle only on the carbed engine, so the potential fuel savings should be obvious. I'm not retreading it here, but Ariens specifically states that use at less that full throttle is fine in the EFI blower manual (links in the thread on that topic . . .).


How much can the fuel savings be? Does anybody have any statistics or facts?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Given the complaints about tank size in some of the EFI machines, and short run time, I'm guessing it's not a huge difference, anyways. I think those tanks are roughly half the size of the carb engine tanks, so let's assume it's not a 50% fuel savings, anyways. 

Even if it was 50%, for many residential users, I suspect it would take a long time to save money, vs added up-front cost.


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

All I have to say is that the snowblower cruises through regular snowfall pretty quietly...only when I get into some deep settled stuff or burms does it ramp up and roar. My old St724 was either loud full throttle or putt-putt. Iâ€™️ve filled it up once only and have moved quite a bit of snow...even some giant shoveled piles that were moved from a dog kennel (had to move it before the upcoming melt down. Iâ€™️m satisfied with the performance, for sure.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Do the RPMs actually increase when it gets to a significant load? Or does it hold RPMs, and just increase the throttle? More like a carb machine?


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

RedOctobyr said:


> Do the RPMs actually increase when it gets to a significant load? Or does it hold RPMs, and just increase the throttle? More like a carb machine?


It should follow the second method, but an electronic governor will have less droop from no load to full load. A mechanical governor can only be so sensitive before it starts to hunt, so you might start at 3700 RPM at no load and be down to 3500 by the time it reaches full throttle. The electronic governor will generally still have a little droop, but it might be more like 50 RPM instead of 200+ (depending on how the electronic governor is programmed, etc.)


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

That, and fuel savings will be a combination of the better mixture control available with EFI, not to mention for someone whose snow conditions and mindset don not give them a valid reason to run 'full blast' all the time.


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## russ01915 (Dec 18, 2013)

So explain to me, pardon my ignorance. if you are running an EFI machine at half throttle, and you go to blow the EOD, what happens? Is it possible to stall an EFI machine? Is it possible to bog down an EFI machine. Does the electronic governor take over and increase the RPM's when it senses a heavy load no matter the throttle setting?


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Assuming it's not monumental EOD, it blows just fine, just less distance thrown.

I've done that many times with carbed machines as well, and *zero* issues if the snow conditions are right. Heavy or wet, sure bring the power up. Cold and dry, even with EOD, not an issue.

Just because you are not running full speed does *NOT* mean that the engine cannot go to WOT and deliver power as needed . . .


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## russ01915 (Dec 18, 2013)

So at half throttle how many RPM's.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Well, if idle is 2200, and full is 3600, then half would be around 3000 . . . (not that there is any relevance or significance in that figure) . . . I don't tach my speeds, since it's irrelevant. but would guess that's close. I have cases where between bank height and wind, that throttling down is the only way to get my snow over the bank, but not in the neighbor's drive (or back in my face if I try to blow upwind).


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## DWB1957 (Mar 1, 2019)

*Can’t wait to post a review on Snow Blowers Direct*

So I got an email today that Snow Blowers Direct is Shipping out my originally missing handlebar carriage bolt, spacer, and lock nut...which is appreciated. In regards to my complaint about having to fix the damned thing to get it running, they said that they forwarded it to the Ariens rep. With the additional question “Once again I sent this over to my Ariens Rep...I am not sure what it is you want us to do though Dave?” So I reiterate my complaint about buying a brand new blower with a scratch on the handlebar (for $25 discount) and having to re-wire it (BTW it was shipped with oil in it which makes it likely used, too)...crickets from SBD (Jake).

So I’m now willing to offer up some words of wisdom about buying online instead your local dealer...and particularly Snow Blowers Direct. Thanks for the forum!


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

Ariens ships with oil in the blowers, IIRC. My Pro28 came already filled with oil.


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## chargin (Mar 29, 2015)

My Toro shipped with oil also.


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## russ01915 (Dec 18, 2013)

Is it really worth buying a snow blower on line? DWB1957 did a great job diagnosing & fixing this problem. Not too many homeowners could have. Then they give him the run around. No Thanks.


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

russ01915 said:


> Is it really worth buying a snow blower on line? DWB1957 did a great job diagnosing & fixing this problem. Not too many homeowners could have. Then they give him the run around. No Thanks.



I bought mine online for a couple of reasons: No local dealer could do any better on price, it was easy, and I could assemble it myself without having to worry about how to get the massive box/pallet home (it was just dropped off in my driveway instead).


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