# 1st post,Just bought this Craftsman 26" 9hp Tecumsa . Good? bad? ??



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

Hello all.I know absolutely nothing about Snowblowers/throwers.Bought this for just over $100.Starts 2nd pull and runs smoothly.(has electric start too).Everything works as it should as far as I can see.Has 6 fwd speeds and 2 reverse.Hoping I bought a good machine.??Charlie


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Running machine, operates fine , 100 dollars .... You did fine


----------



## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

The proof of the pudding is in the tasting as they say. You'll know in 2 months. Does not look abused. Go over it now like a proud new owner. Good luck.


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

at $100 it is an ok deal. those things are nothing fancy. i personally don't like the but they will do the job. it also looks like it was well taken care of for its age.


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

Thanks for the replies!! I have heard that most Snowblowers are extremely similar if not exactly the same.I like the high 9hp and I have had extremely good service from anything Tecumsa that I have owned.Chainsaw,outboard motor etc.Just hoping to hear that I didnt buy a lousy unit which does not seem to be the case.Charlie


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

$100 is a ridiculously low price for a 9hp.

This was made by MTD. Don't buy parts from Sears, no need to.

Do a Search under my name for my "Snowblower Checklist".


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

JLawrence08648 said:


> $100 is a ridiculously low price for a 9hp.
> 
> This was made by MTD. Don't buy parts from Sears, no need to.
> 
> Do a Search under my name for my "Snowblower Checklist".


Thanks!! Will do!! Charlie


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> This was made by MTD.


disregard this info. it is definitely not made by mtd. if it was i wouldn't dislike them as much. they are murry or noma built and i personally don't like them because of the rectangle impeller output and plastic chute control parts.


----------



## jherbicide (Oct 14, 2021)

I just sold the exact* same machine to my Brother in Law, you got a heck of a deal. Its not the fastest machine around, nor the heaviest. But it will certainly get the job done. If you feel like any upgrades I would look into better tires, I put chains on mine but they barely helped.

I bought mine used, owned it for about 15ish years, had no troubles besides the skids (see below). I did give it the once over before selling it, found the auger belt (4L35 is the size, or Murray/Craftsman 581264) was about half broken thru and replaced it.

Keep an eye on the skids and scraper, the skids on mine lasted about 2 seasons per side here in central Iowa. I put the arnolds universal plastic ones on mine before I sold it.











*mine was a 536.XXXXXX too, just had a different gas tank on the engine is the only difference I can see.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Have you used it a couple times yet? That will tell you a lot.

In the meantime start doing some homework. Maybe download an owners manual and read it while in the can.

Knowledge is Power.

good luck.

The GOT


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I have the 10HP YardMachines I sold, waiting for my neighbor to pick up ... I used it last year, worked great .... I did put the XTrac tires on it this summer, as I find them way better traction when those snow hogs wear down.


----------



## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Charlie, welcome to SBF... for a C-note I think you did pretty good.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

crazzywolfie said:


> disregard this info. it is definitely not made by mtd. if it was i wouldn't dislike them as much. they are murry or noma built and i personally don't like them because of the rectangle impeller output and plastic chute control parts.


I stand corrected. It is a Murray designed snowblower. The rectangular exit chute is the give away. I don't have a problem with the plastic chute gearing, just keep the bolts tight. The restriction of the exit chute can be a problem but with the power of the 9hp, it should push out bricks. Check the RPMs, it should be at 3,600. You can cut out half of the chute opening so it will be flat on one side and a semi-circle on the other side.


----------



## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

I also agree that the square discharge is the worst feature of those machines. The metal chute negates the problem a bit, the later plastic chutes clog horribly in wet heavy snow. 

The key to Tecumseh happiness is to check the oil EVERY TIME you prepare to start working the machine. These engines will not tolerate neglecting the oil level. Synthetic oil sure makes them last longer and pull start easier.


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I have used a few of the Murray made units with the square chute discharge pathway under different brands.... I never had a clog and the machines performed flawless?

I am a believer that many people experience clogs for many reasons.


----------



## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

You have a nice machine there, and for $100 it is good. The biggest thing, as others above have mentioned, is maintenance. You can have the best machine in the world, but if you don't take care of it, it's useless. If you are mechanically inclined, you can dive deep into the maintenance (make sure the augers are not seize on the shaft, check the gearbox fluid, etc.) This will help prolong the life of your machine.


----------



## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

They sold a lot of those green machines and I see at least a dozen for sale daily, usually in terrible clapped out, and rusty condition. 
Sellers are asking $150-250.00 CAD so you did OK, as that machine doesn't look to have seen a lot of use.

As others have said, get an owners manual, read it and perform the recommended annual maintenance before winter. Run it around your driveway and make sure everything is operating as it should. 

This vintage of Craftsman was not their best (slightly older Craftsman were better built IMHO), but with proper care, the machine should give you many more years of service.


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

Thanks guys,sounds like I did ok on the purchase of this blower.Will be a few months before we see any snow here.I DID download the manual.I will keep a bottle of Lucas handy to top off oil.What type of gear lube/grease goes in the gearbox? Charlie


crazzywolfie said:


> personally don't like them because of the rectangle impeller output and plastic chute control parts.


I dont like the look of the rectangular chute either.Mine is all metal so that is good.I was told by a shop that that shape chute was to minimize clogging compared to round.I assumed that it would clog easier..??


----------



## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

> I have used a few of the Murray made units with the square chute discharge pathway under different brands.... I never had a clog and the machines performed flawless?
> 
> I am a believer that many people experience clogs for many reasons.


It sounds like you don't believe that poor design is one of those many reasons.


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Ziggy65 said:


> They sold a lot of those green machines and I see at least a dozen for sale daily, usually in terrible clapped out, and rusty condition.
> Sellers are asking $150-250.00 CAD so you did OK


you mean like this lol. i haven't listed it for sale yet but it will be soon. has some rust but over all in decent shape and not worn out. engines on their own usually sell for about $100 so $150-250 for a running/working machine is not too bad and a machine for $100 or less that works and in good to decent condition is an ok deal.


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

I tilted the blower into servicing position and removed lower plate.Everything looked and operated perfectly and is extremely clean.No rust or corrosion anywhere.I spray lubed the chains and pivot and slide points .I also checked the gearbox which looked absolutely perfect with no leaking or weeping .Removed the drain/fill threaded plug to discover it contains what looks like white lithium grease.I had to stick a tiny screwdriver in to discover what was in there.I plan on getting an aerosol can of lithium grease to add or top off unless someone here tells me differently.Thanks again Charlie


----------



## Darkwoods (Dec 25, 2020)

You did good. I had a similar Craftsman 11hp x 29” last year and it was in worse condition than yours, and I sold it for much more. 

I found the engine was fairly strong and it did ok in powder as well as crusty snow but struggled quite a bit in wet, heavy snow. Narrower passes were a must in wet snow, which helped but it still clogged in the wet stuff. These machines are good candidates for the impeller modification but be prepared for some major drilling if you do. The impeller on mine was very thick and i didn’t have a chance to do the mod before I sold it.


----------



## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

the square shoot opening is awfull
my brother got a 10/29 for free i tuned it up it clogged awful with the wet snow here on the coast
i put and impeller kit on it still only threw 25 [email protected] rpm small impeller
tranny went i put the hmsk100 on my st-824 and junked the blower


----------



## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

Crazy Charlie said:


> I tilted the blower into servicing position and removed lower plate.Everything looked and operated perfectly and is extremely clean.No rust or corrosion anywhere.I spray lubed the chains and pivot and slide points .I also checked the gearbox which looked absolutely perfect with no leaking or weeping .Removed the drain/fill threaded plug to discover it contains what looks like white lithium grease.I had to stick a tiny screwdriver in to discover what was in there.I plan on getting an aerosol can of lithium grease to add or top off unless someone here tells me differently.Th


Glad you are having fun with the machine. A guess on gear lube would be 00 grease. Others more qualified to say will chime in no doubt,


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i would guess someone likely topped it up with some lithium grease if it looks like there is some in there. i would guess it should probably have 00 grease in it also but lithium grease from a spray can is likely easier to use to top it up. i don't know how something like that would effect it


----------



## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

Regarding the grease in the gearbox, what does your manual (that you downloaded) say? If by 'gearbox' you mean the drive unit between the augers powered by the blower shaft, my Honda uses gear oil. I don't know what Craftsman used.

Were that my machine, that I had just bought, I'd pull the augers and check the bearings. It sounds like your machine is about 20 years old, and grease can dry out in that time. If the belts looked good all the way around, I'd leave them alone and slather lots of anti seize on shafts where they join, on the auger end where it enters the bearing, anywhere that rust might cause something to swell and seize (shear pins, too). Aunt Seize is not a lubricant, so use a waterproof grease where the manual calls for lube. I'd also change the oil - not just top it up. Look at the checklist another member here posted. You want to catch anything and fix it now that might immobilize your machine in the snow.


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

This is what the manual stated under "AUGER GEAR BOX" ..."The auger gear box is lubricated at the factory and should not require additional lubrication. If for some reason the lubricant should leak out, have auger gear case checked by a competent repairman."


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, that's you ....


----------



## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Here it is: the Snowblower Checklist, courtesy member JLawrence.


----------



## jherbicide (Oct 14, 2021)

Darkwoods said:


> You did good. I had a similar Craftsman 11hp x 29” last year and it was in worse condition than yours, and I sold it for much more.
> 
> I found the engine was fairly strong and it did ok in powder as well as crusty snow but struggled quite a bit in wet, heavy snow. Narrower passes were a must in wet snow, which helped but it still clogged in the wet stuff. These machines are good candidates for the impeller modification but be prepared for some major drilling if you do. The impeller on mine was very thick and i didn’t have a chance to do the mod before I sold it.


I attempted the impeller kit. I found I needed to pre-drill for tech screws it’s so thick.

More importantly, at least for mine I found I could only effectively add about 1/8”. The gaps around the auger were closer to 3/8”, but the gap at the discharge trailing edge was 1/8”…. So, if @Crazy Charlie wants to try it, make sure you measure at that point before attempting….


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Your gap is only going to be at the closest point of your fin (blade,paddle) to the bucket frame, which is usually at or around the impeller frame discharge opening.


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

jherbicide said:


> I attempted the impeller kit. I found I needed to pre-drill for tech screws it’s so thick.
> 
> More importantly, at least for mine I found I could only effectively add about 1/8”. The gaps around the auger were closer to 3/8”, but the gap at the discharge trailing edge was 1/8”…. So, if @Crazy Charlie wants to try it, make sure you measure at that point before attempting….


I will give it a try.Do you have a link to the kit?? Or the proper name for it so I can do a search?? Thanks Charlie


----------



## jherbicide (Oct 14, 2021)

@Crazy Charlie They are listed on Amazon and eBay, you’ll need a four blade kit.

But… if you want to save $, just order one of these and cut it up as needed, I used one of those pocket knives that uses disposable razor blades. I cut them to about 1.5” x 3.5” if memory serves. Or you can get some “bailer belt” from a farm supply store, it’s the same thing, but below was my cheapest option. 

B1SB5509 Rubber Paddle Fits Toro Wheel Horse Snow Blower Thrower S200 S620 Amazon.com: B1SB5509 Rubber Paddle Fits Toro Wheel Horse Snow Blower Thrower S200 S620 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Use 2 “tech screws” or self tappers and about 1” or so washers to attach each. I did find I needed to predrill the holes. I think I had about $12 invested total, vs the $40 or so for the kits. 

But to digress, make sure you measure “everywhere” in the impeller, or you may find like I did it’s a fools errand. And, there will be some slop in the impeller, so grab and wiggle it to see how much.


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

I will check it out ,thanks


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

Not sure I am going to be able to get these installed without taking apart the entire auger and housing..?? Charlie


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many times the impeller rubber extension mods can be installed easily just by removing the chute.


----------



## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> Many times the impeller rubber extension mods can be installed easily just by removing the chute.


I agree. If a person already has the impeller out go ahead and drill. I have one I'll be doing today after I finish the service and straighten out one the blades. I use a template (I have a few actually) made from 3/16" flat stock that I clamp in place. Its not necessary but it makes the process quicker in my experience.
Once augers/impeller are back in place then I do the rubber.
When I drill the impeller with the chute off, I use a 1/4" bit that is extended, must be a foot long, (I have a set of 6 I think from 1/8 to 3/8). Any local hardware store should have them.










Just to add, I use 1/4-20 x 3/4" or 1" nuts and bolts with a washer on each side.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

As OneAcer responded, remove the chute, turn one of the impeller blades, and you are now able to reach down with your drill. I use stainless steel bolts washers, and nuts, some are comfortable with self tapping screws.


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

with a machine like that your right you would almost need to take it apart or need the drill bits with the hex shaft and a bunch of hex shaft adapters or a lot of self tapping bolt


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I have always been curious why the manufacturers have never incorporated the impeller rubber extensions to give the tight clearance within the housing into there design at manufacturing.

Its not like they are ignorant to the fact that many people do it.

I am thinking possibly a safety issue or one of fault if there is any incident??


----------



## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

My opinion is their cost is more than what they gain.


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

Thanks guys,I will try removing the chute and seeing if I have good enough access.Charlie


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Crazy Charlie said:


> Not sure I am going to be able to get these installed without taking apart the entire auger and housing..?? Charlie


Welcome to the site.
I would separate the bucket for the impeller mod, not hard.
The reason is to replace the 2 side auger shaft bearings which are actually a hard plastic bushing, they do wear. Mine lasted around 20 years.
While you have it apart grease the auger shaft.
I had the "white Lithium" grease on mine, though I have a 5hp/22" machine. Last picture is inside my gearbox, yours about the same.
I am willing to bet yours uses the same auger bearings. Part #MA9517 I bought mine for around 4 bucks each. Look in the manual for your part number.
Don't over tighten the new bearings as the plastic can crack from being over tightened. Just snug them up good and keep and eye on them.

The bearing. ( which is a bushing)











ONCE YOU PULL THE WHOLE THING IT WILL BE LIKE THIS, A LOT EASIER TO INSTAL THE MOD.
AND LIKE I SAID CLEAN THE AUGER SHAFT AND GREASE IT. There is no need to take apart the gearbox if you don't have too.
Don't overfill the gearbox either, there is a plug on it to top off if needed.











WHEN THE AUGER BUSHING/BEARINGS FAIL IT WORKS ON YOUR GEARBOX, SEE THE METAL SHAVINGS IN THIS PICTURE?
I CAUGHT MINE IN TIME, THE WHOLE SHAFT WILL WOBBLE A BIT CAUSING THAT BIG GEAR IN THERE TO WEAR. THAT IS WHY I SAY REPLACE THOSE BEARINGS.











Look in your manual, let me know if you have the MA 9517 bearings.


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

One more thing, pull the wheels off and grease the axles.
And hope that they come off. 

EDIT, We all can walk you thru all of this if you need it.
Post a link for your online manual here, if you can.


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

Big Ed said:


> One more thing, pull the wheels off and grease the axles.
> And hope that they come off.
> 
> EDIT, We all can walk you thru all of this if you need it.
> Post a link for your online manual here, if you can.


Here it is..Thanks again!! Charlie


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Crazy Charlie said:


> Here it is..Thanks again!! Charlie


Yours does take the MA 9517 bearing, I would get new ones then do the mod if you want.
Edit,
Look around for prices, I got mine for 4 bucks each from Jacks. I think it was jacks I would have to check.


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Jacks $4.71 a piece, I bought other parts too, so you have to add in the shipping. But still better then Amazon!


Jacks Small Engines Search


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

Thanks Ed!! Charlie


----------



## Crazy Charlie (Oct 25, 2021)

BTW,cleaned the plug and carb and now it starts on 1st pull .Shouldnt be that easy for a 9hp but it is.Very happy and can always use the electric start if I am feeling a little less manly that day...Lol Charlie


----------

