# Storm 2410 Throttle Governor . . .



## tpenfield

I happened to be reading the engine manual for my TB 2410 and came across the warning about adjusting the governor on the throttle (i.e. don't do it). 

Well to me that sounded like too much of an invitation, so . . .

I opened things up and gave it a 'tweak'. It only had about 1/8" more throw left to it, and I also noticed that the throttle lever knob starts to interfere with the faceplate approaching that point. So I only gave it maybe 1/16" more throw (half of the remaining adjustment).

I have not tried it yet, but I was wondering if anyone has adjusted the governor on this or similar machine (179 cc OHV) and if it had any good or bad effect. I was hoping to squeak a bit more power out of it, as I believe the engine is rated 5.5 hp, but it seems like it could give some more.

Experiences? . . . Thoughts? . . . Reprimands?


----------



## Shryp

The problem lies in the fact that if you go past 3600 rpm you risk having the connecting rod snap and having the broken pieces bounce around in the engine. The larger pieces generally punch through the side of the block and leave a hole in there.


----------



## tpenfield

Shryp said:


> The problem lies in the fact that if you go past 3600 rpm you risk having the connecting rod snap and having the broken pieces bounce around in the engine. The larger pieces generally punch through the side of the block and leave a hole in there.


Good info, and thank you. So, I take it that the factory sets it to 3600 RPM. I am wondering if that changes much after break-in, etc. 

I did run the machine after adjusting the governor, not much difference, maybe a bit more RPM and staying power under load. Maybe I'll see if I can check the RPM with an old automotive RPM/Dwell meter that I have . . .


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

They just aren't built to spin faster UNLESS you spend some money for better internals. Like Shryp said, you start turning up the governor and it's likely you'll snap the connecting rod and even punch a hole in the block with that rod like Tecumseh's do under the starter.
I have that blower and engine and I'm not sure if anything aftermarket is offered for it like they do for the Predators 

Billet and stock rods for Predator 212cc engines.


----------



## whimsey

If your engine stumbles a bit or doesn't idle smoothly after it's warmed up then maybe enriching the main jet and idle jet will help a bit. I don't know about adding any real power though. It is a small engine. The biggest mod you can make to help with the snow/slush throwing would be to add an impeller kit or modification. It seems these models have a large gap between the impeller and it's housing. There is lots of info on this site about this.

Whimsey


----------



## tpenfield

Yea, that connecting rod blow-out looks a little beyond what duct tape can fix. I'll check the rpm and set accordingly. I do notice that my Toro 521 revs up much higher than my new Troy-Bilt.

I did notice the fairly large gap on the Troy-Bilt impeller, so I plan to do the mod kit at some point. The Toro has about half as much gap and seems to throw snow better.

Overall, I do like the Troy-Bilt, except that it is not really built in Troy (NY). . .


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

New York City ?? Not a good place for making salsa or snow blowers.










I've noticed that too on mine. It seems to chew it's way through some pretty good drifts and the EOD pile but never really seems to sound like it's running on the governor much. Engine seems to stay pertty steady compared to the Craftsman or Murray.
The Toro is new to me so I'll likely have to wait till next year to see if I can get enough snow to load that puppy down.


----------



## tpenfield

Troy, NY (went to college there). . . the place of the origins of the Troy-Bilt Rototiller company.


----------



## tpenfield

UPDATE:

I was able to check the RPM with an old inductive tach (posted some issues abut that on another thread).

Th RPM at WOT was 3800 . . . so I adjusted it down to 3600.


----------

