# Keep fuel in metal carb bowls and gas tanks



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

At the end of the season, April, I like to drain the fuel from the tank and carb. Then before the season starts I like to check the fuel bowl for any contaminants and the inlet float valve before I put fuel in to ensure it's closing.

Last year, before the season started, I checked the snowblower. I had a leaking inlet float valve and the carb dip tank, the ultrasonic cleaner, and replacing the vitrex inlet valve seat twice did not work. I replaced the carb (last year) with a Chinese Amazon carb. When the carb came, I was both surprised and shocked, and mad, when it had a steel fuel bowl. BEWARE! You want aluminum.

Last week I pulled out from my shed my Ariens 5hp snowblower with the Chinese carb with the steel fuel bowl!

As usual for me, I dropped the fuel bowl. It was very rusty, it was disgusting, also white stuff so I guess that came from moisture in the air as there was no fuel in the fuel bowl and the gas tank, only just a little rolling around in the bottom that probably didn't come out when I removed the hose from the shutoff petcock.

So this is what I've decided to do next year. I'm not happy with spraying fogging oil in a metal gas tank, I don't think it does a any good, though the Ariens Tecumseh engine has a plastic gas tank. I'm going to leave some fuel in the plastic gas tank, if it had a metal gas tank, I would fill it! I'm going to leave the petcock open so there will be fuel in the fuel bowl. I'm going to put a can under the fuel bowl to catch and residual leakage just in case. This way the fuel bowl will not rust.

For this year, I'm going to see if an aluminum fuel bowl will fit, if not, I will clean the rust from the fuel bowl using a wire brush in my drill and some sandpaper.

Is there any inexpensive sprays or liquids that are gasoline proof I can coat the steel fuel bowl with to prevent rusting in the future?


----------



## EdwardC (Sep 26, 2016)

POR-15 is a commonly used for sealing the inside of metal fuel tanks. Not particularly expensive (not cheap either).


----------



## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I have no issue at all with spraying fogging oil or other good marine preservative in the metal gas tank. That's, um, pretty much exactly what it's for. Spray the empty metal tank, the float bowl and air inlet in the carburetor, the cylinder and valves via the plug hole, anywhere moisture likes to camp out and cause corrosion during storage. I had a by-the-gallon habit with CRC 6-56 for decades with marine toys and engines. I still use it for seasonal mothballing of stuff like the snowblower. I like it better only because it doesn't smell as bad as real fogging oil.

So... wondering why you feel the fogging oil doesn't do any good.


----------



## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

EdwardC said:


> POR-15 is a commonly used for sealing the inside of metal fuel tanks. Not particularly expensive (not cheap either).


i hope people understand he means the gas tank sealer and not black paint for rust


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

dr bob said:


> I have no issue at all with spraying fogging oil or other good marine preservative in the metal gas tank. That's, um, pretty much exactly what it's for. Spray the empty metal tank, the float bowl and air inlet in the carburetor, the cylinder and valves via the plug hole, anywhere moisture likes to camp out and cause corrosion during storage. I had a by-the-gallon habit with CRC 6-56 for decades with marine toys and engines. I still use it for seasonal mothballing of stuff like the snowblower. I like it better only because it doesn't smell as bad as real fogging oil.
> 
> So... wondering why you feel the fogging oil doesn't do any good.


I have fogging oil and have used it. I don't like the fact it squirts out rather than fogging. If it really fogged when it came out rather than squirting like a silicone spray or other, then I might like it. Because of that I'm not sure if it completely covers all the metal 100% inside the gas tank. Because of this, it seems if it doesn't touch it, or run down on it, the exposed metal is going to rust. If it really fogged then I would feel more confident that it's covering. Filling a metal gas tank to the top with gasoline ensures it won't rust as long as it's filled and the gas is not contaminated with water.


----------



## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I use a 10% mix of 2-cycle oil in the gas for off-season layup. Just pour the mix into the fuel tank, along with some stabilizer, slosh it around to coat the insides (metal tank) an then run the engine for a while to coat the carb bowl, intake and combustion chamber.

In the fall as I get the machines ready for their winter work, I run the engines to purge the older gas/2-cycle, then go with fresh gas for the season.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

tpenfield said:


> I use a 10% mix of 2-cycle oil in the gas for off-season layup. Just pour the mix into the fuel tank, along with some stabilizer, slosh it around to coat the insides (metal tank) an then run the engine for a while to coat the carb bowl, intake and combustion chamber.
> 
> In the fall as I get the machines ready for their winter work, I run the engines to purge the older gas/2-cycle, then go with fresh gas for the season.


Before 2 cycle oil there was 30-ND as the standard for all 2 cycles. Since it's not a 2 cycle engine needing the protection, why not use the 30-ND? Certainly cheaper and probably better protection, thicker oil, better covering.


----------



## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Before 2 cycle oil there was 30-ND as the standard for all 2 cycles. Since it's not a 2 cycle engine needing the protection, why not use the 30-ND? Certainly cheaper and probably better protection, thicker oil, better covering.



Why not just use gas with stabul and start it very 60 days and run that out and put in a like amount
wash rinse repeat it will always be just as good as in season
unless you have 3 blowers in the shed its so much easier
down time is 7 months 210 days div by 60 thats 4 restarts 10 min each
Ive stored them empty before bu after seeing the white crud
i now store them with stabul and run them as above never and issue
metal gas tanks for sure stored full


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Keeping a metal gas tank full, to prevent gas tank rust, makes sense to me in theory..
But here is something I have never understood about this issue, and I still dont get it:

I have been using vintage equipment for almost a decade now, 1964 Wheel Horse tractor, used as a mower, metal tank, tank stored nearly empty all winter, 5 months each year. Two 1971 Ariens snowblowers, metal tanks, tanks stored nearly empty all summer, 7 months each year...no rust, ever.

What am I missing?

Scot


----------



## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

sscotsman said:


> Keeping a metal gas tank full, to prevent gas tank rust, makes sense to me in theory..
> But here is something I have never understood about this issue, and I still dont get it:
> 
> I have been using vintage equipment for almost a decade now, 1964 Wheel Horse tractor, used as a mower, metal tank, tank stored nearly empty all winter, 5 months each year. Two 1971 Ariens snowblowers, metal tanks, tanks stored nearly empty all summer, 7 months each year...no rust, ever.
> ...


CONDENSATION eom


----------



## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

fogging oil is meant to be sparyed down into the carb while the engine is running just before it runs out , so it vaporizes forming a fog coating the insides of the motor, there is also a type called store and start, it goes into the gas tank gets run through the system to coat it all , not that one can't get a large can of fogging oil like we use. in qts and gallons. use a hand pressure sprayer one can apply a heavier dose

here is a few links to what a normal boat gets for storage when done properly ,and of course we don't have to worry about adding antifreeze to a snow blower motor so that step can be forgotten about.
https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/fogging-engine-proper-use-fogging-oils/

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvi...MIktzln4zh1wIVFJ7ACh36DAw1EAMYAyAAEgLw6_D_BwE


----------



## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

FOGGING A CARBURETED ENGINE

with carburetors, fogging will take place at the air intake. Once winterizing is complete, run the engine with the air filter out of the carburetor. If the fogging oil is not already in a sprayable container, find a spray bottle to place the oil in and start your engine. While it is running, spray fogging oil into the air intake until you see cloudy exhaust coming out of the tailpipe. This means the whole system has been coated. Turn off the engine, replace the air filter or seal off the intake and the job is done.



FOGGING A FUEL-INJECTED ENGINE

Fuel injection changes the application by quite a bit. Fogging should be the very last thing that is done before putting the motor away. Plan your winterizing tune-up, including oil and spark plug changes. Change the oil first, and make sure the motor is warm (not hot) upon completion. When removing each spark plug to change them, spray fogging oil into the hole beneath each plug. Place a new spark plug in after the oil has been sprayed, and keep the motor turned off. Your motor will be protected until spring.

i also for added protection seal the carb and exhaust closed, with gorilla tape to help keep out unwanted


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

rather than leave the tank full with the petcock open i would remove the bowl float and needle at the end of the season and put it in a plastic bag and bring it in the house and leave the tank dry if you are concerned with buildup over the off season. since you take the bowl down every year anyway whats the difference.


----------



## stromr (Jul 20, 2016)

I used to drain the tank and float bowl of all my small engines. Still had some corrosion. Now I keep the tanks full and start them up every 4-6 weeks and run fuel filters on everything. Also use non-ethanol gas and fuel stabilizer. Haven't had any problems since.


----------

