# What is your HSS oil drain strategy?



## dugt (Jan 23, 2020)

I used a Drainzit on my HS928 but it looks like a Drainzit is unnecessary with an HSS because of the drain extension. It looks to me like a 1/2 gallon milk or OJ container would work well. The oil could easily be poured out of the container into a fully enclosed container for disposal. I believe the HSS928 and HSS1332 but hold 1.2 quarts of oil so a 1/2 gallon container would be big enough to contain the oil whether the container is upright or on its side.

If a Drainzit is still optimal on an HSS I want to install one when my HSS1332 arrives. (I bought it online so it will arrive without oil in the case.)


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## SkunkyLawnmowers (Oct 18, 2018)

I've experiemnted with most oil drain solutions on my HSS but have found the Drainzit the least messy and quickest. They are quite cheap to install, too. 

Regarding the refilling with oil - I've given up using funnels on my 724 - too slow and too much mess.

Like I do to refill my car's differential oil, I now use a syringe. I fill a (clean!!) glass jar with the required amount of oil and then draw it up into the syringe, measuring as i go. Then gently feed the fresh oil into the filler neck. 

The fact that the syringes have the voulme markers printed on the side of the tube, you know _exactly_ how much oil you are putting in the engine. 

The fact that a funnel is no longer needed reduces the risk of oil / foreign body contamination from the funnel. 

Takes half the time that a funnel does, very accurate and no mess.

You can of course install a small piece of tubing to the nozzle of the syringe to get the oil in even further but I don't.

The syringes are resuable after cleaning. 



Link below


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## SkunkyLawnmowers (Oct 18, 2018)

You might find this thread of some help 

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/150515-hs724-oil-change-quesation.html


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

:iagree: +1 what @SkunkyLawnmowers said. Never spill a drop.


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## TD-Max (Jan 2, 2020)

I've had oil drain valves for 25+ years now starting with my Deere 455 garden tractor. Open valve and oil runs down hose into pan. I run EZ oil drain valves on my trucks. No need for hose, but I could add one if necessary. With the Hondas having the drain extension I think a simple tall soda bottle as a drain funnel is about the simplest way to do it. That or a chunk of PVC drain pipe. Just cut a top access for the plug.


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## SkunkyLawnmowers (Oct 18, 2018)

But if we're talking about _THE_ easiest way to drain oil from engines then far and away it's Fumoto Valves. 

I have one fitted to my car and also to the GX390 engine in my Honda generator and it works like a charm. 

Unfortunately, the configuration of the GX engine in Parker means I can't fit one to him. I'm not sure about the larger GX engines in the Honda blower line up, if they would take a Fumoto Valve.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I use the EZ Oil Drain Valves on my generators, but the DrainZit seems to be a little easier on the snowblowers & mowers, since I'm draining with a 4x4 under the port side track/wheels and have to get past the starboard side track or mower deck.. You can use the EZ or the Fumoto on the HSS GX engines, but you have to use their extension adapter to put the valve lever out far enough; I had to use the extension on both my Onan and PowerMate generators as well for clearance: https://ezoildrain.com/products/


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## dugt (Jan 23, 2020)

Because everyone here said the drain extension doesn't solve the problem, I looked closely at the extension. It doesn't protrude far enough to be very useful but I think it protrudes far enough to work with a Fumoto valve. I could attach a tube to the nipple of the valve or I could have it dump the oil into a container on the snow blowers track. It should be clean, fast and easy. The extension and valve are about 4" above the track and that leaves enough room for a container like a milk carton. On my HS928 the drain plug is only about 2" above the track which is too low for a good size container. I will write an update of I install the valve in a couple of weeks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCDABU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dugt said:


> Because everyone here said the drain extension doesn't solve the problem, I looked closely at the extension. It doesn't protrude far enough to be very useful but I think it protrudes far enough to work with a Fumoto valve.


Be sure you order the correct size valve. The F109N you pictured is 12-1.75 thread, while the end of the HSS1332 extension where the plug is located is 10-1.25. The extension Honda uses steps down a size, while the EZ & Fumoto extensions are the same size on both ends.


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## dugt (Jan 23, 2020)

tabora said:


> Be sure you order the correct size valve. The F109N you pictured is 12-1.75 thread, while the end of the HSS1332 extension where the plug is located is 10-1.25. The extension Honda uses steps down a size, while the EZ & Fumoto extensions are the same size on both ends.



Thanks for noticing my error!

The F109N is 12-1.5. F109N | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves

I bought the 12-1.5 because the Drainzit recommended for the GX390 is HON1012 and it is 12-1.5. I see your Drainzit is attached directly to your engine, not the extension. Are you positive the output of the Honda extension is 10-1.25? I couldn't find that spec. If you are correct, I should get an F124N. 
F124N | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves

I would like to use the HSS1332's long drain extension because with it there is enough clearance to spin on the valve.


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## SkunkyLawnmowers (Oct 18, 2018)

I'll look up what size Fumoto I have installed on my GX390 generator engine and let you know.


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## SkunkyLawnmowers (Oct 18, 2018)

I have the F109N installed on my GX390 generator engine, where the regular drain bolt was (non extension). Not sure if that info helps as there may be more room on the GX390 generator platform compared to the GX390 blower configuration, but thought I'd mention anyway.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dugt said:


> I bought the 12-1.5 because the Drainzit recommended for the GX390 is HON1012 and it is 12-1.5. I see your Drainzit is attached directly to your engine, not the extension. Are you positive the output of the Honda extension is 10-1.25? I couldn't find that spec. If you are correct, I should get an F124N. F124N | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves
> I would like to use the HSS1332's long drain extension because with it there is enough clearance to spin on the valve.


 Yes, the drain bolt that goes into the extension is 90131-ZE1-000 BOLT, DRAIN PLUG 10MM X 1.25
It's actually the drain bolt for the smaller GX engines without an extension.
https://www.richardsonsaw.com/oil-drain-plug-honda-90131-ze1-000


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## dugt (Jan 23, 2020)

tabora said:


> Yes, the drain bolt that goes into the extension is 90131-ZE1-000 BOLT, DRAIN PLUG 10MM X 1.25
> It's actually the drain bolt for the smaller GX engines without an extension.
> https://www.richardsonsaw.com/oil-drain-plug-honda-90131-ze1-000


Thank you very much, Tabora!


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## RBQChicken (Nov 12, 2019)

I recently did my first oil change on my HSS1332ATD, and I followed my dealer's suggestion: save the core from a roll of paper toweling. Cut out a little from one end for wrench access to the oil drain plug. Worked better than I thought, no drips. It extends out past the track so you can have a container on the floor to catch the oil. It also held itself in place under the metal extension!

For filling I used a small plastic funnel to which I attached a piece of vinyl tubing about 18" long. First time I ever drained and refilled oil without a single drop of mess.


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## dugt (Jan 23, 2020)

RBQChicken said:


> I recently did my first oil change on my HSS1332ATD, and I followed my dealer's suggestion: save the core from a roll of paper toweling. Cut out a little from one end for wrench access to the oil filler plug. Worked better than I thought, no drips. It extends out past the track so you can have a container on the floor to catch the oil. It also held itself in place under the metal extension!
> 
> For filling I used a small plastic funnel to which I attached a piece of vinyl tubing about 18" long. First time I ever drained and refilled oil without a single drop of mess.


That sounds good. I will try the funnel with the tube method for filling. I think the hardest part of adding oil is seeing soon enough when it is getting close to full.

For draining, I think the valve is the easiest option because no tools are required. The valve costs $30 but I think it will be well worth it. I have two snow blowers with Drainzits and they are easy but the valve should be even easier.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dugt said:


> I will try the funnel with the tube method for filling. I think the hardest part of adding oil is seeing soon enough when it is getting close to full.


 I use the Hopkins FloTool Spill Saver which attaches directly to a quart oil bottle:









dugt said:


> The valve costs $30 but I think it will be well worth it.


I've found the EZ Oil Drain Valves online for as little as $16.99 including shipping. Just have to wait and watch for a bit sometimes...


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## dugt (Jan 23, 2020)

tabora said:


> I use the Hopkins FloTool Spill Saver which attaches directly to a quart oil bottle:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That FloTool is really cheap and it looks good. Do you need to poke a vent hole in the bottom of the oil bottle to get the oil to flow nicely?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dugt said:


> That FloTool is really cheap and it looks good. Do you need to poke a vent hole in the bottom of the oil bottle to get the oil to flow nicely?


I have not done that, but if you were dumping in the whole quart, I guess it would speed things up.


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

SkunkyLawnmowers said:


> I've experiemnted with most oil drain solutions on my HSS but have found the Drainzit the least messy and quickest. They are quite cheap to install, too.
> 
> Regarding the refilling with oil - I've given up using funnels on my 724 - too slow and too much mess.


Bingo. Exactly the same problem I had which led to me overfilling my 724 and getting that frothy stuff out the valve cover. Luckily I knew enough to stop it after a min and fix the problem. A Dranzit solves the oil drain issue (and a Form-A-Funnel works on other small engines well).

But adding oil, as you noted, is another problem. I discovered that the little green top from Sriracha Hot Sauce threads on to a quart/litre oil bottle perfectly. Then I can drip it into the HSS724 slowly. Funnels are too fast for this machine for some reason.


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## Stephen0523 (Feb 17, 2015)

My home made setup works well!


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

Just because Honda gave us a choice, I added the Drainzit on the port side. My thought was it won’t snag on anything there and I left the shorty factory extension on the other side. In case I want to take a warm motor oil bath and make up new and interesting swear words. &#55357;&#56883;


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## dugt (Jan 23, 2020)

The Fumoto F124N is the correct valve. It is M10-1.25 and fits the extension on the HSS1332. The extension on the snow blower is long enough to spin the valve to fully install.

I got a Flow Tool too late to use it this time but it looks ideal for adding oil. The clear tube will make it easier to see how much oil is flowing and how full the engine is getting.


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

vmax29 said:


> In case I want to take a warm motor oil bath and make up new and interesting swear words. ��


I ran out of swear words about a decade ago, so I started stringing the ones I know together into longer phrases. When that strategy runs out, I'm switching to German. They have some great sounding ones.


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## Nanook12 (Nov 26, 2019)

I’m not seeing the need for any type of ez-drain gizmo on the HSS. With the extension, all I did was cut the bottom off a quart oil bottle and used it under the extension as a funnel, drained into a gallon hydraulic can with the end cut off. Perfect fit beyond the track.


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## Thorenn (12 mo ago)

tabora said:


> :iagree: +1 what @SkunkyLawnmowers said. Never spill a drop.
> Tabora


*Tabora, I received my "DRAINZIT 8-13HP HON HORZ LRG" Hose today and installed it. Thanks for recommending it. *


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## Dash (Jan 5, 2022)

I am surprised that no one here is using a pump up oil extractor...


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I am not. I am Leary that it might miss a few ounces. With an automotive engine, that is not a big deal, but with a small engine, that could be a large percentage. Plus, more importantly, I don't own one !


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Dash said:


> I am surprised that no one here is using a pump up oil extractor...


Actually, many of us use them, but with these small engines it's actually less work to simply gravity drain them...
I have two of these: MityVac 7201


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## Michigan_Snow (Nov 19, 2021)

With a little modification a phalus pump would work also, and it is covered under most health insurances now


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## Frank-Gatineau (Jan 17, 2021)

So I bought a EZ-124 valve to drain my HSS-724 since this is the 10mm/1.5 version that would fit at the end of the existing extension but now I see that the rubber gasket built in the EZ-124 is too large to make a good contact with the existing extension. Any idea ?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Frank-Gatineau said:


> So I bought a EZ-124 valve to drain my HSS-724 since this is the 10mm/1.5 version that would fit at the end of the existing extension but now I see that the rubber gasket built in the EZ-124 is too large to make a good contact with the existing extension. Any idea ?


Normally you remove the extension before installing the EZ-Drain, but it requires that you remove the mounting nuts and lift the engine block for clearance (and the threads are a different size in the block (M10) than in the end of the extension (M8)). That's why many of us have elected to use the DrainZit instead (HON1010 for the GX200), since the additional clearance is not required and it threads right on in place of the extension.


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## Frank-Gatineau (Jan 17, 2021)

tabora said:


> Normally you remove the extension before installing the EZ-Drain, but it requires that you remove the mounting nuts and lift the engine block for clearance (and the threads are a different size in the block (M10) than in the end of the extension (M8)). That's why many of us have elected to use the DrainZit instead (HON1010 for the GX200), since the additional clearance is not required and it threads right on in place of the extension.


Would you have the thread specs before the extension by any chance ? I could probably ask one of my friend to machine a compatible extension.


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## Pauljp (10 mo ago)

Frank-Gatineau said:


> So I bought a EZ-124 valve to drain my HSS-724 since this is the 10mm/1.5 version that would fit at the end of the existing extension but now I see that the rubber gasket built in the EZ-124 is too large to make a good contact with the existing extension. Any idea ?


Would a garden hose rubber washer work?


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## Frank-Gatineau (Jan 17, 2021)

Pauljp said:


> Would a garden hose rubber washer work?


Good point, I'll. give it a try and let you know (with pictures )


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Simply put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on it or my go to, Loctite 567 thread sealant.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Frank-Gatineau said:


> Would you have the thread specs before the extension by any chance ?


I gave you that in post #32... The block drain is M10, same as bolt #5. That EZ-124 should thread right in. Just loosen the 4 engine mounts and tip the block up while you screw in the valve. Bolt #14 is M8.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

People overthink everything......


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Pauljp said:


> Would a garden hose rubber washer work?


Heck, No!!! Not rated for petroleum products!


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

Made a drain trough out of a piece of tin and didn't cost an arm and leg and you can make it what ever length you want and it slips right under the drain bolt.


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## Frank-Gatineau (Jan 17, 2021)

Toon said:


> Simply put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on it or my go to, Loctite 567 thread sealant.
> View attachment 193008


WOW ! I just check the price / availability of that stuff.... Dunno if this is because I'm in Canada but damn this is expensive.... Anyone in Canada here knows were to buy this loctite 567 for a "reasonable" price ?
At this time the cheapest I found was 30$(cad) + 15$ for shipping... that makes a lot for 50ml !!


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Frank-Gatineau said:


> WOW ! I just check the price / availability of that stuff.... Dunno if this is because I'm in Canada but damn this is expensive.... Anyone in Canada here knows were to buy this loctite 567 for a "reasonable" price ?
> At this time the cheapest I found was 30$(cad) + 15$ for shipping... that makes a lot for 50ml !!


-
Permatex 592 is comparable. $22.83 with free shipping on Amazon, or $8.29 for a 6ml tube at Canadian tire if you don't use it very often.
-


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## Howie A B (12 mo ago)

dugt said:


> I used a Drainzit on my HS928 but it looks like a Drainzit is unnecessary with an HSS because of the drain extension. It looks to me like a 1/2 gallon milk or OJ container would work well. The oil could easily be poured out of the container into a fully enclosed container for disposal. I believe the HSS928 and HSS1332 but hold 1.2 quarts of oil so a 1/2 gallon container would be big enough to contain the oil whether the container is upright or on its side.
> 
> If a Drainzit is still optimal on an HSS I want to install one when my HSS1332 arrives. (I bought it online so it will arrive without oil in the case.)


I just changed the oil in my 928 for the first time. To drain it I used a long neck funnel that i slipped under the extension part of the existing drain, reached over the tracks into my bucket. Easy, no mess at all. To fill, I used a different long neck funnel that came with an arced bottom hose, also worked great. No mess or fuss.

I have used Fumoto valves in the past and usually had great success if the plug was in the bottom of the pan and I had enough clearance. The issue I had with side mounted valves is that the male plug can restrict the draining of some of the oil so you do not get all the oil out.

The only issue I had with the oil change was removing the crush washer from the plug, it did not want to come off!! Had to pry it off (carefully) and replace with genuine honda replacement washer.


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## Sparkland (Sep 9, 2016)

Dash said:


> I am surprised that no one here is using a pump up oil extractor...


I used an oil extractor and it certainly did not remove anywhere near all the oil from the crankcase. Disappointed. I ended up draining it the normal way.


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## Frank-Gatineau (Jan 17, 2021)

Toon said:


> -
> Permatex 592 is comparable. $22.83 with free shipping on Amazon, or $8.29 for a 6ml tube at Canadian tire if you don't use it very often.
> -
> View attachment 193037


Just wanted to say thank you all... Super happy with the result, on the picture I still had to wipe the extra sealant but so far so good, no leaks !


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> Actually, many of us use them, but with these small engines it's actually less work to simply gravity drain them...
> I have two of these: MityVac 7201


As an aside, I drained my fuel tank again for the off season this past weekend…OMG why didn’t I make sure I didn’t keep my tank near full during the tail end of the season. Must have been over half full: holding my fuel container with a wide funnel, resting on my feet, it took so long to drain. Won’t make that mistake next year, my foot went to sleep from sitting cross legged for what seemed forever. Also, as originally recommended by Tabora, I’m a Drainzit guy for the oil.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Sparkland said:


> I used an oil extractor and it certainly did not remove anywhere near all the oil from the crankcase. Disappointed. I ended up draining it the normal way.


My Ariens Platinum 414 cc engine has the oil dipstick mounted on the top of the engine front cover on right looking from the PTO front side. The front cover has a number of strengthening ribs on the inside. The oil dipstick goes down thru a web with a very small opening. To get an oil extraction tube to get passed the rib seems impossible. I understand the LCT engine and the Honda engine are close in design so perhaps the rib on the Honda is the problem too.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Town said:


> I understand the LCT engine and the Honda engine are close in design so perhaps the rib on the Honda is the problem too.


The Honda oil ports are not like that LCT dipstick at all. I have an LCT 414 MAXX on my generator and it is exactly the same as my Honda GX390, with just the two low oil fill/measure ports... Looks like the LCT StormForce winter (and certain other) engines have the additional high dipstick port.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

tabora said:


> The Honda oil ports are not like that LCT dipstick at all. I have an LCT 414 MAXX on my generator and it is exactly the same as my Honda GX390, with just the two low oil fill/measure ports... Looks like the LCT StormForce winter (and certain other) engines have the additional high dipstick port.
> View attachment 194103


So the Honda does not have the top mount dipstick, just the two low mount oil fill ports? Most of the LCT "AX" engines on Ariens have the top mount dipsticks for ease of use as standard. I think the LCT line of engines have the top mount dipstick as an optional extra feature.

Does the Honda crankcase have the two galleries on the side with internal drain holes from the crankcase, and the rear sealed (from crankcase) oil gallery. Those galleries would hold some oil and the poor angle for the suction tube from the fill ports may account for the poor extraction.

Thanks for the information.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Town said:


> Does the Honda crankcase have the two galleries on the side with internal drain holes from the crankcase, and the rear sealed (from crankcase) oil gallery.


I don't believe so? The interior of the GX390 is pretty much one open space, as an example:


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

tabora said:


> I don't believe so? The interior of the GX390 is pretty much one open space, as an example:
> View attachment 194157
> View attachment 194158


Yes the Honda has the side galleries with the top drain hole on the bottom right side. The LCT "AX" has additional drain holes lower down at the base of the crankcase and gallery. Your pic does not show the "left" side gallery or the back gallery. On the LCT "AX" engine there are no drain plugs with access to the crankcase directly. The 3 drain plugs access the galleries to drain the oil. Does the Honda have a rear drain plug?

Thanks for your help.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Town said:


> On the LCT "AX" engine there are no drain plugs with access to the crankcase directly. The 3 drain plugs access the galleries to drain the oil. Does the Honda have a rear drain plug?


No, there are only drains on each side.








The schematics show both drains coming off the sump.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Town said:


> Yes the Honda has the side galleries with the top drain hole on the bottom right side.


Perhaps you could illustrate what you're talking about?


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

tabora said:


> Perhaps you could illustrate what you're talking about?


Hi Tabora,
Attached is a pic of my 414cc LCT AX engine interior (minus camshaft) showing the 3 drain holes numbered 1, 2 and 3. These holes allow engine oil to drain into the side galleries for the drain plugs on outside of engine. At the back of engine there is also a gallery that links the side galleries to the rear drain plug. None of the 3 drain plugs has direct access to the crankcase. 
Attached pic shows the drain holes marked by arrows and numbered. Note there is no drain hole at the back of the crankcase.








In your pic of the inside of the Honda crankcase I can only see one drain hole at the top of the gallery. But the other side of the crankcase is not visible.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Town said:


> These holes allow engine oil to drain into the side galleries for the drain plugs on outside of engine.


On a Honda (and it appears identical on that LCT), the side oil drain plug holes are bored straight through the solid mounting flange and into the very bottom of the crankcase, i.e. the sump. There are no "side galleries"; there IS the drain passage that goes to the rear where your hole #2 is. I can see that Ariens has a nice drain tube connected back there. Honda just has a mounting bolt for the fan shroud.


Town said:


> None of the 3 drain plugs has direct access to the crankcase.


Actually, those holes are directly into the crankcase from the drain plugs, as discussed above.









The whole topic of oil supply galleries is more in line with a pressure lubrication system, not a splash lubrication system like these small engines. The function of the oil galleries is to allow the passage of oil from the sump, via an oil pump to all parts of the engine that are otherwise hard to reach. Of course, there are oil drain passages throughout the upper reaches of these splash lubrication engines, but the supply is just tossed there by the dipper.


Town said:


> At the back of engine there is also a gallery that links the side galleries to the rear drain plug.


On the front cover (PTO) side of the Honda, there IS a place where a 3rd oil drain could be placed (also directly into the crankcase sump), but it is not utilized on the GX snow engines, since it would be down in the belts area...








The LCT 414cc Snow King has this same blank, unused drain location.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Hi Tabora, @tabora 
I can see now that the LCT AX engine is quite different to the Honda engine, in terms of crankcase and front cover construction. The "AX" engine has the U shaped gallery to provide for 3 oil drain ports. The gallery runs down both sides of the crankase and across the back of the engine for the rear drain plug. 

As you say, Honda has the two side drain plugs that drain directly from the crankcase. 

Thanks for all the information you provided.


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Google “Form-A-Funnel”. Amazon has the original and similar/cheaper knock offs. It’s a bendable, shapeable funnel.








Amazon.com: Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool - General Purpose : Automotive


Buy Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool - General Purpose: Funnels - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Town said:


> The "AX" engine has the U shaped gallery to provide for 3 oil drain ports.


A final thought: What I tried to stress above is that an oil gallery is a supply passage after a pump (like an artery after the heart). If the oil is not actively going through a passage on its way to lubricate something, it's most likely just a drain passage.

I_ think_ that the drain passage that your hole #2 pierces is the only thing carrying oil to the Ariens AX drain pipe at the rear. It would be difficult to cast something u-shaped like you describe. It's easy, however, to bore the 3 straight drain holes thusly:


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Failed to enter a message.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

tabora said:


> A final thought: What I tried to stress above is that an oil gallery is a supply passage after a pump (like an artery after the heart). If the oil is not actively going through a passage on its way to lubricate something, it's most likely just a drain passage.
> 
> I_ think_ that the drain passage that your hole #2 pierces is the only thing carrying oil to the Ariens AX drain pipe at the rear. It would be difficult to cast something u-shaped like you describe. It's easy, however, to bore the 3 straight drain holes thusly:
> View attachment 194267


I just checked the drain ports. There is no U shaped drain at back of engine crankcase. As you said the rear drain is fed from the right side only.


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