# 1128 OXE Conversion to heated grips-OHXE owners HELP...



## hfjeff

I have a 1128 OXE and would like to add the heated hand grips. I have the grips and handle part numbers, but I have been told my alternator will not power both the headlight and the heated grips. Im having trouble locating the part number for the alternator that comes with the OHXE and also the power switch for the heated grips. Does anyone know what the Toro part number is for the alternator that I need or can somebody with a 2014 1128 OHXE provide an engine model and type? It is stamped on the side of the valve cover and should look something like this. I apologize if this has already been covered as I searched the forum and did not find a post on it.


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## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to the forum hfjeff

I turned your photo for you. It would be MUCH easier if you just posted the numbers since it's still hard to figure out if I'm seeing a 3 or an 8 in the "Type".
Does the engine say 16.50 on one of it's stickers, the recoil ??

I'm pretty sure it's a 1.5 amp but I'm not positive.

Maybe someone else knows. I was looking here https://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/results?NTT=21M314-0128*

There are higher amp options in the part list.


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## RIT333

I had the same issue with an under-powered generator, so I put in switches so that I can run either the HHG, the lights, or nothing, or both under reduced lighting and heat - but never use that option.


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## hfjeff

Sorry, I forgot to add some critical info. The motor is a Briggs and Stratton 342cc and 16.5 ftlbs torque. I believe you are correct that the current alternator is 1.5 amps. I understand that I can install a switch and use one or the other, but being and engineer type, I want make it fully functional. I am getting the OEM heated grips, new handles for the auger and drive, and switch and harness.

I am quite mechanically inclined so changing the alternator is no big deal. I just need to know which one to purchase. I was hoping someone with an OHXE and the Briggs 342cc 16.5 motor could take a look at their numbers so I could research which alt is in their machine. 

Any help is greatly appreciated.


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## hfjeff

I worked with a local Toro Dealer who was very patient and thorough and I believe he found everything to piece this together. Unfortunately Toro does not make a kit like Ariens does so you have to gather the individual pieces. Everything is on order and I will post an update as to how it goes. It is fairly expensive if you have to change the alternator as I do.


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## UNDERTAKER

Briggs motors only have stators on them. with a alternator u need a voltage regulator. that is my take on it any way. but as you all know I have been wrong before. here is a tid bit get some rechargeable bike lights. and use the other to keep your paws toasty warmk:k:k:k:


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## Kiss4aFrog

Most heated grips run around 30 watts so if you're only pumping out 18 on a good day you'll likely be very disappointed in what heat you get. That's if it's noticeable at all. 

My machine, I'd go for one of the better coils that should fit in there so you're getting at least 3 amps, 5 if you need to run lights and warmers on a cold dark winter night.


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## skutflut

hfjeff said:


> I worked with a local Toro Dealer who was very patient and thorough and I believe he found everything to piece this together. Unfortunately Toro does not make a kit like Ariens does so you have to gather the individual pieces. Everything is on order and I will post an update as to how it goes. It is fairly expensive if you have to change the alternator as I do.



You have the 793640 1.5 amp DC only in there now if the parts list is correct. Which one are you changing over to? Just curious because I am considering the same change, to get more electrical power from the existing engine. Did the dealer tell you if the existing flywheel with the small magnet is compatible with the new stator?


Just for your reference, you might want to look at the following link which has a useful pdf file attached.

http://web.missouri.edu/~schumacherl/276781SingleCylinderOHV.pdf


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## hfjeff

The dealer looked up a replacement motor for an 1128 OHXE and then was able to research the alternator that came with that motor. I believe the replacement he ordered is either a 5A or 9A. He also compared the part numbers of that motor's flywheel and mine and found that they are the same. Hopefully he got it right. I do not know what the part number is yet as he just ordered them today over the phone. But I should have the parts by this Saturday hopefully.

I had an Ariens Deluxe 28 that came with the headlamp but no heated grips and I just ordered the Ariens kit and hooked it up and they worked great. I had no issue with a dimming headlamp and that was on a small 250cc Briggs. Too bad Toro is not quite as accommodating. 

Fortunately I am persistent!


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## skutflut

hfjeff said:


> The dealer looked up a replacement motor for an 1128 OHXE and then was able to research the alternator that came with that motor. I believe the replacement he ordered is either a 5A or 9A. He also compared the part numbers of that motor's flywheel and mine and found that they are the same. Hopefully he got it right. I do not know what the part number is yet as he just ordered them today over the phone. But I should have the parts by this Saturday hopefully.
> 
> I had an Ariens Deluxe 28 that came with the headlamp but no heated grips and I just ordered the Ariens kit and hooked it up and they worked great. I had no issue with a dimming headlamp and that was on a small 250cc Briggs. Too bad Toro is not quite as accommodating.
> 
> Fortunately I am persistent!



You put ariens grips on the airens, correct? Did it have a dedicated power point for the grips? I have a Briggs chart showing a whole whack of different stators with AC, DC, AC/DC, outputs, and alternators up to 60 amps for some of their engines. They are a bit vague on specs in places, and what flywheel goes with what.

Please post your results when you get the new stator on and the grips wired up. Let me know the P/N of the stator you got when its all working. Thanks


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## hfjeff

Parts arrived yesterday-2 days after ordering. That is great service and shipping! I started installing everything:

1.) switch cut into dash and installed
2.) old wiring harness removed and new harness in place
3.) recoil shroud removed and flywheel exposed.
4.) coil removed and out of the way

My biggest challenge is finding a socket that fits over the flywheel nut, and a strap wrench. Not sure if it is standard or metric, but picked up a 1 3/16" and it fits with some play. They were all out of 30mm so I will try another store tomorrow as I want the correct socket.

Time is limited so this will take a few evenings. So far so good. FYI this is what $165 handwarmer kit looks like pieced together:

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## Kiss4aFrog

If you get a chance can you make a parts list with the P/N's you're using and a review on how well it works once installed and test driven ??


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## RIT333

Auto parts stores, like Advance Auto, are often a good source of large sockets, and free, through their loan-a-tool section. They may even have a strap wrench, but if you have access to a compressor and an impact wrench, you may not need the strap wrench. Or else, you can pull the spark plug, and shove rope in the cylinder to stop it from spinning - probably easier than trying to hold the cylinder with a strap wrench.


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## hfjeff

*Mission Accomplished!! (picture heavy)*

Heated grip install complete. She is now ready for her first test and non-too-soon as we are supposed to be hit with a good storm Tuesday.

I am very fussy with my work so I probably took more time than most people. Overall I would say I have about 8hrs of actual work on the project with several more trying to track down part numbers and research how to do things prior to digging in. All in all everything went quite well and there were no real issues. Although not needed, there were some specialty tools that came in handy and made things easier and I will list them at the end.

Parts List:

1. Heated grip kit (x2). Includes heated grip, epoxy, and rivets.
P/N: 131-6460

2. Traction Lever (x1). Has a larger arch radius to fit over larger grip.
P/N: 125-7946

3. Auger Lever (x1). Has a larger arch radius to fit over larger grip.
P/N: 125-7947

4. Rocker Switch (x1). On/Off dash switch for the grips.
P/N: 127-5999

5. Wire harness (x1). This harness has the connectors for light and grips.
P/N: 127-5950

6. Alternator (x1). Higher output alternator to power light and grips.
P/N: 696742. USE DC output (RED) for Light and AC output (BLACK) for grips.


I ran it this afternoon and the grips heat up nicely but the headlight does dim when the grips are on. This alternator as recommended by my local dealer is a dual circuit output and is rated at 2-4 Amps DC. I would like a higher output than this but have not found one yet that fits this motor. They make a 5 and 9 amp, but from what I understand you need to change the flywheel as it comes with bigger magnets. Not sure I am going to pursue that option.

The original alternator had 1 black wire as it was 1.5 amps DC only. They new alt is a dual circuit and has 2 wires: 1 black that is 14v AC and 1 Red that is 2-4 amps DC. Both the original and new DC wires have a diode in-line and it is sealed with heat shrink. 

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Below is the orig alt and then the new alt. The new alt requires 4 bolts and does not come with them, so you need to purchase 2 more 4mm/.070 bolts to hold it in place. I just bought 4 new stainless sheet metal screws this size.
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You have to cut the plastic grip that comes on the OXE handle as the new grips slip right over the metal handles. I should have taken a picture of this part but make sure you measure the depth of the heated grip and that will tell you how far you have to cut the plastic back, then add 1/8" so you cut off a little more so the grip goes on all the way. I used a utility knife with new blade and kept rocking it back and forth and sawing the plastic until it came off. Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the handle and mark with a Sharpie so you have a nice straight line.

I installed the grip with the wire coming off at a 45 deg angle or so, so that it does not interfere with the differential release levers:
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Picture of how nicely the levers fit over the grips:
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Dash:
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My wife isn't overly thrilled when I haul my projects in the house, but I do this when I have to epoxy the grips on so the epoxy does not freeze. Besides it kind of spices up the place a bit and makes for interesting conversation:
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Do not forget to rough up the paint on the handles or the epoxy will not hold and will let loose. This happened with my Ariens kit and I had to re-do the epoxy.

Special Tools:
1. Impact wrench with 30mm socket to remove flywheel nut. My Snap-on impact on its lowest setting took less than 1 second to spin it off.

2. Flywheel puller. I had this and it worked great and you are not prying on the flywheel against the motor housing. Rent one from Orielly's if you need.

3. Hand Rivet tool for the heated grip install. I went to Lowes and bought one for $20.

Overall I am happy with how it looks and everything fit. I do wish I had more AMPS so my light would not dim at all. It is still pretty pretty but being an engineer-it bugs me.

My hands get cold very easy so for me the heated grips are worth it. 

I look forward to trying out this new Toro as it is brand new. I have had Ariens and John Deere in the past and can't wait to see how the Toro performs and using the joystick control.

Feel free to contact me with any questions and I will do my best to help out.


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## hfjeff

Jumped over to the Ariens Forum and got some suggestions on a different alt. It is on order and will be here soon. Once I get it installed and tested I will update the previous post with the new P/N if it fixes the issue.


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## hfjeff

Replacement alt installed Friday night. Ordered an Ariens light harness off Ebay so I can get the correct plug. I would rather cut and splice the light/heater harness inside the loom rather than cut the connector off the alt and splice on a generic connector. Hopefully have it by mid week and can test it out.


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## DennisP

One thing I would like to point out, only because I have been researching things regarding alternators on both Briggs and Tecumseh setups.

Go back and redo your wiring. Connect the red (DC, that you converted to the black connector) to your light, just like it was originally, and use the black wire (that you taped up that is AC) to power your heaters. You will notice no more light dimming when the heaters are on.

Your grips don't care if it is AC or DC voltage. When you use the DC side you are only using half the current, since the other half is being filtered out by the diode. That is fine for your light, but your grips will work much more effectively using all the current available to them on the AC wire. No sense upgrading to a higher output stator and not using it to it's full potential. I am sure you will notice the grips heating up much faster and will put out more heat overall.

Toro and other manufacturers tend to play games with the wiring colors to keep end-users from doing the upgrade you just did. At least with Tecumseh and some of the Chinese engines they standardized on colors.

On the Cub Cadet grip heaters, for example, the heaters use the AC portion of the stator output (red wire, newer Chinese engine), with the lights always getting the DC output (black wire, newer Chinese engine). I am certain Toro would do the same thing.

As I was going through a few other things, I just realized, the way you have it wired currently (only using the red wire and taping the black up) is absolutely no different than if you didn't change the stator at all. You have the same number of poles, the same amount of wire. You just used only half of the stators total output by using only the DC output side.


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## DennisP

Also, didn't notice, but it sounds like you ordered yet a different stator?

Try using the original Toro one wired like I mentioned.

I must add, I am finding that a lot of these alternators are misrepresented.

Take the Tecumseh setups. A little more complicated, but you have in reality only two flywheel options, a 3 magnet and a 5 magnet. You also have a number of stators, but to simplify I will just mention two, a 3amp DC with 5amp AC that uses the 5-magnet flywheel and a 3amp DC that uses the 3-magnet flywheel.

Now, the 3amp-DC/5amp-AC stator has 3 poles used for each power wire. A thicker gauge wire half-wound per pole for AC and a thinner gauge wire full wound for DC. The DC will only use half the current and half the voltage because it uses a diode to strip the other half and provide DC from the AC signal produced. Thus a thinner wire with double the turns matches the AC with a thicker wire and half the same turns putting out almost double the voltage/amperage.

Now, the 3amp-DC stator with a 3-magnet flywheel uses the thinner gauge wire, but all 10 poles of the stator are utilized with full windings. They rated this at only 3amps DC. Now the manual states for testing purposes it should put out AT LEAST 12vdc at full RPM, but that is a minumum rating. In reality it should put out at least 14vdc since the AC test of the wire before the diode calls for a reading of AT LEAST 28vac. The higher output would correspond with the increase in the number of poles utilized, even with only 3 magnets in the flywheel.

To simplify, if we do the math, the 3/5 split stator and 5-magnet flywheel combo puts out at least 0.2amps per pole per magnet. Thus 3 poles x 5 magnets = 3 amps DC (we are ignoring the fact that it is 6amps AC since the thinner gauge wire was never intended to be utilized for the full AC waveform at that draw).

Now the same number of windings, for the same gauge wire, are on the 10 poles for the 3amp-DC stator with a 3-magnet flywheel. That means they are rating those poles for only 0.1amp each per pole per magnet. That is half what the other stator is utilizing as a rating. But, if we extrapolate that, we find that we in fact have 6 amps DC of useable power based on the other combos utilization.

Now, I personally feel they did this because the 3amp-DC/3-magnet flywheel setup was intended to be used as a trickle-charge setup for a battery/12v starter configuration without the use of an outboard regulator. All of the other setups (sans the 1.5amp lighting one a lot of the snowblowers got, along with the previously mentioned 3amp-DC/5amp-AC setup, which was also dedicated to snowblower use) were expecting to use outboard regulators to provide for both battery charging as well as accessory/lighting in various configurations.

I do think the manufacturers provide specialized configurations (like the 3amp-DC/3-magnet flywheel setup sans regulator) for certain applications, but de-rate them so that they are not mis-used in applications that are better suited for a more completely engineered solution.

In my case I am stuck with a 3-magnet flywheel, so the 3amp-DC 10-pole stator was the only reasonable option (people on fleabay are absolutely ignorant about how much they want for a 5-magnet flywheel, where-as the stators are fairly reasonable).

For me, I am switching from a 18w lighting stator to the 3amp-DC stator and am going from just a single incandescent light to multiple LED lights, a chute motor, a deflector motor and heated hand grips. Based on what I calculated the output to be, I may just go with a 12v starter and add a on-board battery. I certainly have enough power to recharge the SLA battery while running and the battery would help with power mutliple things at the same time. But first I will try running with just the stator alone and see how badly everything gets affected by everything else being utilized all at the same time. Per my calcs, with 2amps for the heaters, 1.5-1.8 amps per motor and less than an amp for the lights, I should be 'OK' without a battery with dimming only happening if I stall a motor against a stop.


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## DennisP

Sorry for the rambling, it has been a long night and I have far too many things actively being thought about at once... I may clean it my previous post for easier readability later on after I get some sleep, but it is technically all there.


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## hfjeff

Dennis, thanks for all the info. I appreciate the time and detail. I did order a different alt/stator and replaced it Friday night and am waiting on a connector for the handlebar harness. I will try this alt/stator and see what the results are. This one I just installed is the same one my Ariens Deluxe 28 had, and also the same as another member has on his Ariens with 342cc and light and heated grips. I posted in that forum as well as I know Ariens also used the 342cc Briggs for a few years on blowers with a light and heated grips. The wiring on this new stator is much thicker than the previous 2. If when I get my connector installed and the light still dims, I will go back to the dual circuit stator and wire up as you suggested-using the DC for the light and AC for the grips. Briggs and Stratton has been absolutely no help what-so-ever. I emailed them twice explaining what I would like to do and they told me that they do not recommend any modifications. I will update this post. I am persistent and do not give up easily.


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## hfjeff

We have success!! Installed the new alternator/stator part #: 797090. However it came with an Ariens type connector. Not a big deal and you can just cut and splice, however I went back on Ebay and bought an Ariens headlight harness for $10 and spliced it onto my headlight harness back inside the loom. That way I can keep the nice factory connectors on the alt/stator and handlebar harness. The light dims ever-so-slightly that if you were not actually looking for it you would probably not notice. I did not run it long enough to test out the heated grips but they did warm up, although not hot. No snow in sight for a while so I cannot give a full eval of this setup. I may unplug the headlight as others have suggested just to see if it gets warmer or not. If not we are good to go. If it does warm up more, then I am going back and going to try a different setup.

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. Overall I am very happy with the outcome and it looks factory and is very clean.


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## hfjeff

Issue not resolved. I test ran my setup again and the grips did not get very warm. I measured the output of the stator and I am only getting 10.4vac full throttle. I am not using a diode with my latest config but with this low of ac voltage I do not believe it is worth testing further with this stator.

I m going back to the dual circuit stator that Dennis P recommended and my dealer sold me: 696742. I spliced it back together and heat shrinked the splices.
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It is rated at 2-4a DC, 5a AC. I am planning on using the DC for the headlight if I stay with the factory 18w bulb, and use the AC for the heated grips if they will run effectively on AC.

However if I go the route of LED, I will use the AC and run it to the full wave rectifier that I already purchased, and then to the new LEDs which I have not yet purchased. Then I will run the heated grips off the DC.

Not sure which route I am going to go but I am going back to the dual circuit stator. I will post an update.


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## skutflut

Because its 50 degrees here today, I went out and messed around with my China heaters and headlight. I have the 1.5A Briggs alternator, with the diode on the end in series, which gives a half wave output rated at 18 watts. This has always worked ok for the lighting, but when I used this power for the grips which require 10 Watts each, they didn't heat up much even though I had the light switched off.

I decided to strip a bit of the insulation from the wire just BEFORE the diode, and soldered a bit of 16 gauge wire in so that I would be getting AC output, full wave.

It makes quite a big difference in the heat output of the grips, a bit uncomfortably warm with bare hands. The halogen light now runs brighter as well, when only that is switched on. I am just curious now how much power is actually being delivered to the loads with the full wave output as compared to 18 watts with half wave output. If I get ambitious later, might go out and stick my ammeter in series with the output and see how much current is coming out. 

I wonder how long before the stator burns out :eeek:

I conclude from this reversible experiment that AC power works fine for both incandescent lights and heating elements for handlebars. Granted, a bigger alternator would power both at the same time, but since I normally use the machine during daylight hours, this should do the trick, since we haven't had enough snow this winter to use the machine more than 3 times anyway.

PS at 8:13 PM

I didn't get ambitious, so I don't know the AC current output yet. Maybe tomorrow.... or Tuesday.


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## hfjeff

Installed the dual circuit stator Saturday and wired the light and heated grips separately. Have the light running off the Red DC lead and heated grips off the Black AC lead. The stator is rated for 2-4 amps DC and 5 amps AC so I should have plenty. The light draes 1.5 amps and the grips draw 3. I did all of the wiring and made a new harness but am waiting on a ring terminal for the ground wire. I am anxious to test this out and see if the issues are now resolved for good. I've had the flywheel off 4 times now and am starting to get tired of pulling this thing apart. On a good note I can have it completely tore down in about 10 minutes.


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## DennisP

Yeah, splitting like that seems to be the way to go, since obviously all the manufacturers do it from the factory...

On a related note I finally put the 3-amp DC rated stator on my HMSK110. I didn't run it, but I did use the electric starter with the fuel and ignition turned off and I got almost 6 volts DC out of the stator. It registered at more than 14 volts AC out of it before the diode, which just goes to prove that this stator puts out way more than 3-amps while running at probably 16 or 18v DC at running RPMs. It probably puts out at least 14v at idle RPMs of 2000rpm. It was spec'd as a battery maintaining stator for tractor use. I calculated it should be able to handle at least a load of 6 (72 watts), if not 8(96) amps DC. And this is with a 3-magnet flywheel. If I wanted to I could have one **** of a regulated DC output with an outboard regulator.

For my use, an electric chute motor, headlight (probably going with a LED conversion), bucket LED light and heated hand grips I am fine. I was concerned I was going to need to go with a on-board battery to support everything, but I am certain I won't. If I were to add a battery I would most certainly add in an 12v starter and key-switch to make it a on-board key-start blower.


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## hfjeff

*Final update. Complete!*

I have achieved monumental success! Thank you to DennisP and others who made recommendations. I went back to the original dual circuit replacement alt/stator that my dealer sold me for this project. I wired up the light to the DC output and the grips to the AC output. The light is now even brighter and does not even flicker a bit when the grips are turned on. The grips get warm quickly and I will not need them on all the time. What a night and day difference. With the single output stator I could hardly feel any heat from the grips. The same when I was using this dual circuit stator, but only using the DC output and had the AC taped off. I updated my materials list to reflect the successful stator part number. Thanks again and I can now put this one to rest....until I move to LED lights this summer.


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## DennisP

Congratulations... Very nice!

I just got a chance to use my heated grips I added to my Cub Cadet 524SWE, and man what a difference.

No question, I am putting heated grips on every snowblower I own, if I can.


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