# 1972 Cadet 268 8HP i.e. Areins 10000 questions



## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

greetings, I recently obtained a Cadet 268 vintage snowblower. It is 8HP with 26" cut, the engine series is 19000 Briggs. It has a pull and electric start, 4 speed and reverse. These were made for IH by Areins, so it's basically an Areins 10000 series. The engine date code is 1972.

we brought it home, checked it for spark, and it had good spark. sprayed the carb with starting fluid, closed the choke, much to my surprise it started and ran on the spray alone. WOW.

it sat for a VERY long time, fortunately indoors, but gas tank was rusty inside, and carb crudded up with the white gas residue. I was a car/truck mechanic for decades at one time, so this was no big deal. I acid soaked the tank to remove all the rust, patched the pinholes with JB Weld, and painted it. Took the carb apart and cleaned it. Someone had previously stripped the main jet nozzle tube flat screwdriver head. From previous experience on my Gilson tractor, that jet nozzle would have to be drilled/EZ outed and replaced, so I left it in there, and managed to get the top off and clean the nozzle while still in the carb. Cleaned the needle/seat with a tiny bit of scotchbrite on a small screwdriver, and drops of cleaner. 

the friction disk was not fully engaging, and the auger chute would not spin easily, adjusted those things and now they both work. The belt clutch lever was missing the clutch spring, put one on now that works. 

the machine had no bottom cover when I got it, and after testing it out a few times I found out why, the 2 cogged clutch for the auger/impeller shaft sticks open in the disengaged position. I've seen videos on Youtube where others have experienced this same problem. Obviously the previous owner left the bottom cover off, so he could engage the clutch with a pry bar before starting it. That's what I had to do. If it's disengaged with the top lever, it will not re-engage even if the lever is put to the engage position. The machine must be shut off, flipped up, and the clutch manually engaged. It goes "clank" and breaks free and engages, then can be restarted and augers and impeller will then work just fine.

QUESTION- before I split the auger and tractor sections apart, what causes these clutches to stick open in the disengaged position like this ? Is it the spring gets weak and doesn't push it into place, or does it get a burr or wear mark on it that makes it stick ? or is it an ALIGNMENT ISSUE with the 2 halves of the tractor and blower ?

QUESTION 2 - there appears to be only ONE governor spring on the carb linkage, and only ONE position to put it on. Yet there are other holes drilled in the carb lower bracket numbered like a typical governor attachment point, but none of them are used. Is this correct for an 8HP Briggs on this blower ? I did find one Youtube video that showed the same setup and just wondering why they'd have all these governor spring attachment points that don't get used anyway. The wide open throttle rpm doesn't seem to be as high as it should be, as if perhaps the governor spring is in the wrong place, or is stretched and losing tension.

does anyone have a picture of where the governor spring on an 8HP Areins or Cadet should go ?

thanks for reading and all responses welcome.


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

GWB
If the big clutch dog on the blower is not releasing, it is binding on the shaft. Could be either rust build up or lack of lubrication. Generally, a shot of PB Blaster will cure the sticking problem, then a light coating of cold temp grease will keep it operational. If you can post a picture of the governor arm linkage, someone will probably have the same set up out here. MH


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

I sprayed that shaft and clutch setup with a ton of PB Blaster and then again with WD-40, and there is a lot of grease on it already. Usually PB Blaster removes rust pretty well. Yet it still gets stuck very firmly every time it's disengaged, and has to be manually engaged with a crowbar. I'm thinking that perhaps the 2 halves should be split and the shaft and clutch assembly removed and thoroughly hand cleaned and sanded with scotchbrite to get any rust off.

My only guess on the lower carb linkage bracket is, it is used for several other engines of various HP by Briggs at one time, so it is drilled for other applications. This one is similar to the one in this video below.





 
notice that lower bracket is drilled with a series of numbered holes that would be for governor spring settings, but they are not used. Just seems odd to me.

this machine of course has a throttle cable but the bracket and governor spring are identical.

I will post pictures of it


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

agree with motorhead.. rust/gunk on spline shaft preventing the cog from sliding back and forth. I've found in past that the spine shaft and cogs teeth need good cleaning then plenty of grease in that area and on the two cogs so slip in/out with ease. Just be careful on getting grease on belt. EDIT- posted same time.. Maybe in the past the owner tried prying hard and mushed the splines so hanging up?


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

having been a mechanic for decades on cars, truck, tractor trailers, intuition was telling me there was something more to this than just a dirty or rusted driveshaft spline.

PB Blaster is pretty powerful stuff and would have released it.

I removed the end bushing mounts from the front auger on both sides, and pulled the entire auger/impeller assembly out of the unit from the front. I left the front chute in place on the machine.

then the clutch cog and spring can just be pushed to the side from underneath and removed from the machine, without having to remove the entire chute front end.

cleaned the splines throughly, cleaned the splined cog, and spring. Oiled it good with Amsoil, slipped it back on the shaft right there laying on the ground. It only goes about 3/4 way back or so, then gets stuck- and has to be pried forward to get it off again.

took a close look at the splines on the shaft, guess what, they are TWISTED ever so slightly, but enough to notice by eye. (I have good eyes up close). The splines are twisted just like axles in the rear of a high horsepower drag race car may be, if stock axles were used with a lot of HP.

looking at the impeller it's also slightly bent on the back plate- the blades are straight but the back plate they are attached to is a little wavy between a few blades, ever so slightly but noticeable. this machine may have ingested something at one time like a rock, chunk of ice, stick, newspaper, etc. and twisted the splines on the axle, and slightly tweaked the impeller.

these machines aren't getting the clutch stuck from rust. they are getting stuck because over time, the auger drive shaft is twisting upon engagement to the engine, and eventually that slight twist won't allow the cog to slide all the way back easily.

it will slide back so far and jam

so now we know...if you are looking at a snowblower and the clutch won't engage and slide freely on the shaft, it may have twisted splines. be wary.

I was told by a guy on the net, another problem with these is the midplate bearing, located right next to the clutch cog inside the machine, so I removed that as well (only 3 bolts hold it in). It spins but not as freely as it should. It's soaking in oil now but I'll probably replace it. the fella told me one of the biggest improvements to getting one to throw snow is changing that bearing. I also intend on putting an impeller paddle kit on the machine too. It should work well when all done.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

*repairs completed*






well it's running and everything is fixed EXCEPT the clutch not engaging with the lever, so I just leave it engaged. If I disengage it with the lever, it won't re-engage, because the main auger drive shaft splines are slightly twisted, the 4 cog clutch gets stuck on the splines. I now have a bottom plate on the machine from a red Ariens blower, it had to be re-drilled to attach to the Cadet with s/t bolts.

the laundry list of repairs on this machine was extensive. read the description on the video. this was saved from the brink of being parted out and it wasn't that costly to do. Bearings were $14, head gasket $5, sheer bolts $5, sealed $15, bottom plate $20, gas line and filter $10. replaced the mid-bearings on main driveshaft for $8. the rest of the stuff i.e. gas, oil, grease, gasket sealer, s/t bolts, JB weld to repair gas tank, acid to soak tank and get rid of rust, etc. I already had here.

I put a heavier governor spring on the motor to kick up the maximum rpm a bit. next will be a paddle kit on the impeller, this is a 12" impeller, the design is so good you can feel the air blowing out of the top chute just sitting there. I also bought an electronic ignition module for $12 to put in, maybe for next year. It starts too easy with the points for now.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Hey Greatwhitebuffalo, What kind of acid did you use to clean the rust out of the gas tank?

I figured I would add this here I hope you don't mind. Have you ever heard of Evaporust?
Evapo-Rust Rust Remover Home

Good stuff for soaking rusted parts in to remove, when your done soaking just save the old stuff to use again it will last/work a while. Great stuff.

Pictures of before and after on some rusty wheels from an old prewar train rebuild job,

Edit, I took out the before and after pictures of the train wheels, take my word it works.
I need the room in my attachment folder.



These pictures are just from soaking, before hitting them with a Dremal tool with a stainless wire wheel attached.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

Thanks GWB on the update. FYI.. when I used the older Arien's with the separate lever to engage the cogs.. I usually just left it 'in' and just put the other lever for the drive in or out to operate. Not quite as safe but worked fine.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> Hey Greatwhitebuffalo, What kind of acid did you use to clean the rust out of the gas tank?


 I used hydrochloric acid diluted to 10% strength. There's many different solutions that will eat rust but cost is a factor here, because the entire gas tank must be FILLED to the very brim of the fill cap, to eat all the rust out. Then dumped, and rinsed with water, then refilled and soaked again, until all the rust pits are eaten away. I also used a long wire brush to get in the fill cap hole and scrub the sides. Years ago we'd clean out car gas tanks by dropping the tank and putting a piece of chain inside and shaking the tank around, and chain would scrub the inside of the tank clean. I've fixed a ton of gas tanks, there's no reason to throw away a gas tank for rust, unless there's literally nothing left of it.

I've heard of evaporust but never tried it.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

Geno said:


> Thanks GWB on the update. FYI.. when I used the older Arien's with the separate lever to engage the cogs.. I usually just left it 'in' and just put the other lever for the drive in or out to operate. Not quite as safe but worked fine.


 
that's exactly what I'm going to do. the bottom cover was missing from this machine so obviously that's what the previous owner was doing all along. I am leaving the clutch engaged and just using the belt idler to engage/disengage.


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