# Sneak preview 2: Engineless Toro 521 gets saved



## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I took up jackmels' offer of a free Toro 521 that was missing the engine, pulley, belts, and the chute crank worm gear:










As I recently did a Predator 212cc swap on a 1974 Toro 524, I had a spare 5hp Tecumseh H50 with a suitable pulley. I only needed to swap out the extra long oil drain tube(so that it would clear the tall tires) for a shorter one, and I also had to mount a throttle lever on the handlebar.

Picture of donor:










Here's mid-progress pic:










I also installed a spare electric starter while I was at it.

Items that are en route: belts/chute crank worm gear, and skid shoes. I should have it running next weekend.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:goodjob:


.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

New belts, chute crank worm gear, and the skid shoes are on. It runs and drives!

The previous owner of the donor Toro 524 said that the engine would struggle to move heavy snow. I think I know the reason why; while I haven't verified with my sirometer yet, the max rpm seem to be well short of 3600. 

If anyone else needs to tweak the high speed RPM on a 1970s medium frame Horizontal Snow King engine, I'm attaching a pic from the 123-page Tecumseh Technician's Handbook.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

I too have a repowered Toro 521 that I installed a Harbor Freight Greyhound 6.5 back about ten years ago.It has worked well with few problems.


Lately,I've noticed that people eagerly recommend the replacement of any Tecumseh 5hp engine with a Predator because of a supposed huge increase in power.


I,myself,have never noticed an increase in power after installing the 6.5hp Greyhound in place of the Tec.HS50.I have noticed that the GH is quieter,more fuel efficient and starts very easily at any temperature,but more powerful-not really.


I recently came across some spec. sheets put out by Tecumseh for various engine models dating from 1974 up though the early 2000's.The horsepower and torque ratings are given for each model.


I noticed something I found interesting.The Tecumseh H,HS50 engines are rated to produce 8 ft.lbs. torque at 2800 RPMs.The Predator 212 is rated for maximum torque of 8.1 ft.lbs. @2500 RPMs.


Honda recently de-rated the GX200 from its former HP output rating of 6.5 down to 5.5 HP.They stated this was a more accurate figure based on new test standards.


I wonder how accurate the 6.5 HP rating for the Predator actually is?I've seen dyno results for highly modified Predators but never any for stock engines.It would be nice to see how close they come to published specs.


EDIT:I just noticed on Harbor Freight's website that the engine specs listed for the 212 are considerably different in the "Predator Beats Honda" comparison chart.There,they have the horsepower listed as 6.1 and the torque output boosted to 9.7 ft.lbs.I raise an eyebrow in suspicion over this.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

That H50 is right at home on there db! 

I have a '70 H50 and it's one of my more reliable engines (after some TLC of course).


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

@classiccat, I've seen your youtube video with your Ariens 524 with the H50.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Here's the buttoned up picture. I ended up installing a prettier throttle lever (one that actually has stop/slow/fast labels), plugged in a spare harness for the on/off key, and threw on a new Toro friction disc.

The H50 runs well and it should be a good match for the frame.










The only other thing I might change is to use a 90-degree elbow for the oil drain tube and go back to using the original longer tube so that it runs to the back of the blower.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I rate the 212 Predator right up there with power against the 8 hp 318 cc Tec.......


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Here's a long overdue update... I've listed it for sale for several week but had zero interest, not even a single "Is this available?" nonsense.

I decided to change it up a bit and installed a Briggs Intek 12000 series engine on it. It's an OHV design, 6.5 HP, 206cc, and supposedly made in the USA in the late 90s... It's a better match for this 521 as I think it's also from the 90s.

I'm using the typical 3/4" to 1" crankshaft adapter so that I could reuse the Toro pulley and the existing belts. Everything bolted on. The only issue was the chute crank not clearing the valve cover which most folks here know that it's a common issue with a 521 engine swap.










I purchased a $3 coupler nut from a local hardware store to get the needed clearance.










It runs and drives fine and we're supposed to get up to a foot of snow. I'll give it a whirl.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I got to test it out in the foot of snow earlier this week and it worked well as I knew a repowered 521 would.

However, it turns out that the Intek's gas tank has a leak at the fuel line fitting, and that tank is somewhat expensive to replace. I also didn't like how the eye bolt for the chute crank had to be extended so far out. The new extra width made the entire snowblower awkward to use between cars.

I yanked out the Intek this evening and replaced it with a recently revived Hemi Predator (it came to me with a stuck intake valve).

The Hemi's valve cover sticks out far less than the Intek's, so I don't even need the coupler nut anymore to have the chute crank rod clear.

Here's a mid-progress pic after the Hemi was installed.










I may even wire up the original on/off switch to the Predator's kill switch at some point.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

The on/off key at the control panel has been wired to the Predator's kill switch setup:










I've installed my DIY adjustable carb jet with the original main jet having been enlarged with a #60 drill bit:










All that is remaining is a slightly shorter auger belt. The original belt is 29.5" but it slips even with the tensioner rod set to max. A 29" belt is too short to slip over the pulley, so I had to wait for a few days for a 29.3" belt to be delivered from Amazon. I was able to slip it over the pulley and it works as hoped.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I was expecting over a foot of snow overnight, but instead woke up to 6-8" of slushy snow instead.

This "6521" was the best performer in the fleet when it came to dealing with 6 inches of snow where the bottom inch was slush.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

We were hit with about 8" of fluffy snow today. I got to try it out with the max RPM adjusted up to 3900 rpm. What a nimble and powerful snowblower this guy is! However, I joined the "Predator tank vent club" earlier tonight as it kept stalling. I ended up doing the mod out in the back yard. I'll try again in the morning.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

can you show the tank vent mod? thanks


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

@paulm12, I linked the mod right in my post, just click on the link above where it's underlined.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

got it , thanks


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## frankjc (Oct 14, 2015)

Hi. I have a 421 that I installed a Predator engine on. I would like to connect the key switch. I see in your picture you have one wire going to ground. Where is the other wire connected?


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## Bkupmstr69 (Feb 22, 2021)

db130 said:


> Here's the buttoned up picture. I ended up installing a prettier throttle lever (one that actually has stop/slow/fast labels), plugged in a spare harness for the on/off key, and threw on a new Toro friction disc.
> 
> The H50 runs well and it should be a good match for the frame.
> 
> ...


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

frankjc said:


> Hi. I have a 421 that I installed a Predator engine on. I would like to connect the key switch. I see in your picture you have one wire going to ground. Where is the other wire connected?


You want to splice the other wire to the kill wire that goes to the ignition coil. It is used by the black wire coming from the oil-pressure sensor.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Please note that I did not retain the throttle control when I installed the Predator engine. However, when I had the H50 engine in there, I just used a generic $10 snowblower throttle cable.



Amazon.com


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

A small update for the 2021-2022 season... I have barely used this snowblower this season as I have had several projects come in. When I finally ran it about 4 weeks ago, it absolutely fell flat on its face in any sort of deep snow, even with the belt tension set to max.

Fast forward to today, I ended up placing two stainless 5/16" washers on each mounting bolt below the engine to raise the engine height ever so slightly, and then I replaced the generic industrial 4L293 (3/8 x 29.3") belt with a Toro p/n 75-9010, which is 3/8 x 29.37:










Not only is it back to being a slush-eating little monster, this new belt will be easier to source in the future.

For giggles, I took a picture of it next to my recently acquired 824XL. They share the same auger gearbox, so the gearbox on the 521 looks ginormous inside the 521 bucket.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I was parting out an LCT 208cc engine from a Compact 24 that had been hit by a fallen tree branch today, and I noticed that it had a shield over the governor linkage. One side of the shield has a bolt hole near the spark plug area, and the other end of the shield gets mounted to the flywheel cover. 

Since the Predator does not have such a shield and its governor linkages are known to occasionally ice up, I decided to see if this shield would bolt up. It DOES physically bolt up on one end, but I have to come up with a way to screw it down onto the flywheel cover:


















Next up, as the same donor LCT 208cc engine netted me a stator that should bolt up to the Predator, I might spring for the flywheel with magnets that's supposed to fit the Hemi Predator ($55+~$15 s&h from V Power Equipment). I wouldn't mind having a headlight on this 6521.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I decided to splurge on the flywheel with magnets from V Power Equipment that has the correct taper for the Hemi crankshaft. V Power suggested a $10 flywheel fan that matches up with that flywheel):










The stator was pulled from the same LCT 208cc engine that was damaged by a fallen tree branch. The block was already drilled and tapped for the charging coil mounting screws from the factory:










I ran into a little snag here... The Hemi's flywheel key disappeared to ether, so I had to pull a key from a dead Honda GVC160 mower engine. It was a perfect fit. I also swapped out the flywheel nut for a Honda one:










Here's the headlight pigtail poking out from the flywheel cover:










I had just enough time to button everything back up before rain started to fall. 

My only concern is whether or not the 2-magnet flywheel is able to work with the 60w LCT stator (I didn't get a chance to test the output), but I can always buy the lower output charging coil that will work with that flywheel). Next up, deciding on which headlight to go with. Stay tuned!


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I finally had a chance to wrap up the headlight install...

The headlight isn't anything fancy, but I bought it because it was cheap and it comes with a suitable L-bracket. I used an existing bolt that mounts the shifter panel to the handlebars.

I used the discontinued Arnold Light Kit, P/N 490-241-0009:


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

A few more tweaks today....

I splurged on some HDPE skid shoes from eBay. The part number is for an AYP/Murray/Craftsman application, but since they use the same 2" center to center bolt pattern used by the Toro 521, they bolted up perfectly. I was even able to reuse the existing hardware.









snowthrower skids 73-059 Poly replaces 1740718AYP,780061 and more in Black | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for snowthrower skids 73-059 Poly replaces 1740718AYP,780061 and more in Black at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com















Next up was getting rid of the 27 year old tires and wheels. The rims were rusty and the tires were showing some dry rot (even though both wheels held air). One of the wheels had been badly seized on to the axle, and prior attempts to remove that wheel had been unsuccessful.

Today's attempt was going to be different, as I was willing to remove the tire AND I did not care if I burned off the valve stem or mangled the paint on the rim. That rim was going to come off today one way or the other!

Even with my new induction heater, progress was slow, as it has a 2 minute duty cycle which then needs a 2 min cooling period. At one point, I was using the induction heater on the inside of the wheel while I had the mapp gas torch on the outside, and vice versa. I kid you not, but 2 mins of heating the wheel would let me move the wheel maybe 1/32" at a time.

I am a stubborn goat, and I eventually prevailed:










Here's the mangled original 27 year old tire:









The replacement rolling stock came from an Ariens 932 series snowblower that I parted out earlier this year. The old Toro rims and the "new" Ariens rims both have a 3/4" ID axle bore. The only mod I had to make was slicing off an inch or so from the inner shaft of the Ariens wheel in order for the dowel holes to match up.










The Ariens rims look great and the Snow Hogs have plenty of tread. It really improves the appearance imo. The only possible downside is that the original Toro wheels and tires were slightly taller.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Adding the 60W LCT stator turned out to be a dud, as it needs to be paired with a proper 6-magnet flywheel.

Unfortunately, the flywheel from V Power Equipment only has 2 magnets, so the parts were not compatible.

I ended up ordering two 3-amp charging coils from Amazon that were less than $12 each including tax and shipping:










I made a Y-cable from some scrap wiring and some bullet plugs to combine the output from the 2 charging coils. Theoretically, I could power up a pair of 36W bulbs with them. However, for now, I'm running a factory Toro headlight from a Power Max HD snowblower, which uses a 38W bulb:


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I think I'm finally finished tinkering with this snowblower! @Oneacer had recently posted a pic of generic poly skid shoes from amazon, and while they are listed with an MTD part number, one of the holes use a circular insert with a cutout that allows for variable sizing. I suspect quite a few skid shoes applications could work if the center-to-center spacing is between 2 to 2.8 inches.

The 521 uses 2" spacing and it worked well:




























Now mind you... While the skid shoes come with hardware, the carriage bolts/nuts/washers are way too large. You won't be using any of them except for maybe one washer per side to go over the circular insert. At $15 w/ shipping, I'm not complaining about having to source different carriage bolts and lock nuts. I've been buying the "Mowtiler" 490-241-0010 shoes. I've bought 2 pairs and both pairs have shown up with carriage bolts/nuts/washers that are too large. There are other brands on Amazon that have the same part number that may or may not come with the appropriate hardware. I believe "Arnold" branded ones are better, but they are more expensive, by $10 per set.

If anyone is curious about the "custom" looking chute deflector, it came attached to a previous 521 I had picked up:









I picked up my first Toro 2-stage snowblower: a 1987 521


I've never really given them a second look, but it was free and it was only 15 minutes away. I usually split the bucket from the frame and remove the chute when I transport a snowblower in my station wagon. This thing is small enough and light enough that once I removed the chute, I lifted...




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

> I think I'm finally finished tinkering with this snowblower!


Welp, that didn't last very long...

I was looking at the parts diagram last night, and saw that the factory chute uses plastic retaining rings that are slotted to keep the chute base pinned to the bucket. The chute is bolted down to the chute base by using 3 carriage bolts.










I have a chute from an Ariens 932 series that's in _really_ good condition, and the diameter of the 2 chutes looked very very similar. The same snowblower was also the donor for the wheels and tires.

I drilled six holes on the base of the Ariens chute, and used some spacers between the Ariens chute base and the Toro chute base to provide some clearance between the two (with my setup, you need about 3/16" space between the Toro chute base and the base of the Ariens chute so that the chute crank rod's worm gear doesn't bind against the Ariens chute base). I am using the factory Toro bolts (#28 in the diagram) to mount everything up :


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## numb3rs (Oct 25, 2021)

Shoulda painted the chute black or red to match


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

numb3rs said:


> Shoulda painted the chute black or red to match


it's on the to-do list before next season, it's too cold here to give it a decent paint job with a spray can.


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