# New Project 10M5



## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

I am starting on a new project 10M5 Ariens This is my 3rd Ariens snowblower and I really do not know what I will end up doing with it. Was free so could not turn it away. I am thinking it dates to 1967 but not completely certain. It came with the Ariens brush sweeper which as an attachment is HUGE!

It has been missing head bolts for >20 years and in storage. Maybe the head bolts out of an older 5hp might work. I am pretty sure it will also need a new ignition setup and a full carb rebuild.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

Right off the bat I broke the governor lever where the pin goes into the pivot hole in the head. Never seen one like this before. I am also surprised to see there is no drop intake tube for the carb and it is more or less bolted straight onto the engine intake.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

the chassis look to be in great shape ! possibly be cheaper to repower ?


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

I am in no hurry on this and I enjoy trying to get old stuff to run again so I will give it a try. I know it needs a carb clean/soak, muffler, and a complete new ignition setup. I've done only the standard style ignition/points before. I've seen aftermarket electronic type ignitions and am not sure if that is worth looking into. Thoughts on that?


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Black Engine Block tells me it was Replaced at some point, but the 212 Clones are really hard to beat, and an easy swap on that style. The chute crank can squeeze around the clone without modification, whereas the later 10000 series needs crank mods. I would also upgrade the axle to the differential type. Impeller Seal and Chute Upgrade can make these really Perform! Whatever you decide, have fun with the project. Here's a Quick Vid of My Modded '65
https://vimeo.com/86446093


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

Jackmels said:


> Black Engine Block tells me it was Replaced at some point, but the 212 Clones are really hard to beat, and an easy swap on that style. The chute crank can squeeze around the clone without modification, whereas the later 10000 series needs crank mods. I would also upgrade the axle to the differential type. Impeller Seal and Chute Upgrade can make these really Perform! Whatever you decide, have fun with the project. Here's a Quick Vid of My Modded '65


I thought the same thing when I noticed the black engine block. Is this the original style engine though? I've never seen this style of governor, carb mounting, or muffler? Looks like the governor lever is still available. What is a 212 clone? My other Ariens are a 1975 8hp 32" and a 1978 5hp 24". To change the differential I am thinking I would need to also replace the axle assembly - or is that not the case?


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Clones are the "Chonda" engines. Harbor Freight sells them, round $100 w/coupon. A Good Option for a Cheap, Reliable, Very easy to Start Engine with Plenty of Power. The differential type axle is 3 parts. Long Axle, Differential, and Flange Hub, easy swap. Here is a photo of the axle setup(924 series, but similar)

https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I hadn't seen the sweeper attachment before. That's pretty cool and especially being as old as it is in what appears to be great shape. I wouldn't have passed that one up either, especially for free. 
The Harbor Freight Predator would be a good choice for a re-power.

.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Good luck getting the carb off, looks exactly like the setup on my 910962 and 910965.

The carb flange is what the carb is attached to, flange to the block, and the mounting holes on the flange for the carb should be non-threaded (original flange Tec #30195A I believe). The flange will have 4 holes...two for the carb mounting, 2 to mount the assembly to the block - all non-threaded.

It has two screws that mount the flange to the block that if my memory is good the right screw is ridiculously hard to get to (Phillips head) if the carb is still mounted. Then the screws that have nuts on the outside of the carb to fasten the carb to the flange. The carb mounting is "inside out". The carb bolts are held in place by tapered lock washers that if rusty or flattened out, they all together (screws, lock washers, carb nuts) spin when trying to remove the carb - necessitating removing the flange with the carb in place.

They are a pain in the butt to get off together. If the carb screw assemblies don't spin, removing the carb is pretty easy. Given the ordeal, I "future-proofed" mine on the '965.

I replaced the non-threaded original carb flange with a 34712 that had threaded holes for carb studs. I wound up using new screws to fasten the new flange to the block first, then 1/4-20 lag bolts from the outside to fasten the carb to the block.

If you search for 34712 here, you should be able to find my thread on the ordeal. Here's a link to what I replaced the original with.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-O...322?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

I have not touched the carb yet. Ignition first since the reported issue was no spark. I have the flywheel off and the condenser and points look like all other ones from any and newer series engines so I think I will pick up a new set tomorrow from Menards on the way home.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

tlshawks said:


> Good luck getting the carb off, looks exactly like the setup on my 910962 and 910965.
> 
> The carb flange is what the carb is attached to, flange to the block, and the mounting holes on the flange for the carb should be non-threaded (original flange Tec #30195A I believe). The flange will have 4 holes...two for the carb mounting, 2 to mount the assembly to the block - all non-threaded.
> 
> ...


Yep that is what the carb mounts looks like. Any big difference performance wise from this and the drop throat HS50 carb setup?


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

59ctd said:


> Yep that is what the carb mounts looks like. Any big difference performance wise from this and the drop throat HS50 carb setup?


No idea.

Mine have the H50 and H70 engines and what appear to be the exact same original carbs. Both run great for their age after carb rebuilds only (didn't do the ignitions), start right off 1st pull after pressing the primer choke in and 1-2 slight pulls to prime. 

One thing I did make sure to do is remove/replace the Welsh plugs in both and cleaned out those passageways. The '962 seemed to always need to be rebuilt when my dad owned it and my brother used a terribly old metal gas tank for some unknown reason (not the engine tank, the tank he used to fill my dad's machines). Rust from the refill tank I'd bet clogged things up all those years. So on it and the '965 (which had a terribly gummed up carb when I got it, probably sat for a decade with gas in the bowl) I hammered a thorough cleaning for the rebuilds and used every part in the kits.

Otherwise they were standard carb rebuilds. Some fiddling to adjust them, both run like a top now. No popping, bouncing or surging. Happy snowblower, happy operator :smile2:


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

I am curious about the newer solid state ignition setups that I think are available for these old engines. On both my other Ariens snowblowers I replaced with the standard condenser and points setup. Is it worth even considering or looking for the solid state type setup for this or just go with the old style? I guess I do not know if the ignition coil is good or not. I am certain the condenser is likely shot as it is about 50 years old now.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

*Choke Plate Bent...*

The carb did come off and I see why others have mentioned it might be hit or miss with the bolts coming from the back on the carb adapter plate. Question re the choke plate on this carb. To me it looks like someone bent it on one side. Thoughts? Could be easy to take off and hammer it flat again. I have replacement ignition points, condenser, coil, and muffler ready to go for this project.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Yeesh...how does that happen?

To me, sure, you could probably remove it and flatten it out "some" but getting it perfectly flat would be the trick to it all, then hoping it turns cleanly to prevent it from occurring again. I'm just curious as to how it got that way in the first place. Maybe the choke plate somehow got stuck and the PO applied just a bit too much muscle to the choke shaft/lever. The choke shaft itself may also be bent somehow.

I personally like rebuilding old carbs to keep things stock, but you might be looking at a replacement carb (which are incredibly inexpensive nowadays). The good thing is you can certainly try it before rebuilding. Disassemble carefully as to not needing to buy anything if possible at first, fix/reassemble, then giving it a whirl.

IOW, not spending for a full carb kit, then finding out it ain't fixable.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

I need to find a new carb cleaning solvent. I've had the carb in a new gallon of PB Blaster Parts Washer Solvent and absolutely nothing is happening. This new generation solvent is worthless. Previous gallon of gunk cleaner worked really well. I will be researching how to maybe mix my own replacement solvent solution for soaking carbs...


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

I gave up on cleaning this old carb. This thing has been sitting in a shed for >20 years not running and I've never seen a carb so horribly gunked up before. Ordered a replacement carb for <$20. Anything special to do with the crankcase before firing it up since it has been sitting for so long? Has new oil in it now. I was thinking to crank it with the electric start for a bit with the spark wire disconnected and then let it sit for a while to let the new oil soak into the bearing journals. It did have oil in it that looks _alright_ at best - at least it flowed out the drain plug.

I really miss the old school gallon of gunk parts dip/cleaner...


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

That's certainly an interesting float bowl. I thought my 910965's carb was bad. Yikes.


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

Some chem dip or the gunk brand gallon bucket with strainer works pretty good. I got a RCBS ultrasonic cleaner meant for cleaning gun parts and cleaning brass for reloading, has a 30 minute timer and a heater. I'll put some hot water in it then a glass or plastic container with some cleaner or even soap and water and put the part in that and then in the cleaner for a few 30 minute sessions. Gets into the carb orifices and cleans up junk in there pretty good, bonus is the noise drives the wife nuts so it's kind of a repellent so I can work in peace in the garage for a while


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

Jackmels said:


> Clones are the "Chonda" engines. Harbor Freight sells them, round $100 w/coupon. A Good Option for a Cheap, Reliable, Very easy to Start Engine with Plenty of Power. The differential type axle is 3 parts. Long Axle, Differential, and Flange Hub, easy swap. Here is a photo of the axle setup(924 series, but similar)
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html


Picked up a John Deere 1032d that has that style differential and I'm wondering if there's a way to lube it or drill and tap in a grease fitting somewhere to lube it.

Any help on that matter is appreciated as I ended up pulling the stub axle tube off and squirting a bunch of grease in there and then push the axle back into the splined area to force grease "in there" and repeated that like five times hoping to lube that part up. I see ariens has it listed for something like $389 so I want to take care of it.


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

First of all aside from sitting for so long and the work it needs it looks really nice. Like a time capsule almost.
Congrats!!!!!


This is the Honda clone or Chonda... Jackmels was talking about, Currently 99$ with coupon:


https://www.harborfreight.com/65-HP...zIjoiOTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk
IjoiODgxNSJ9



Jackmels if you went with 8 HP Chonda would you have to mod chute control??? Or would that fit also??? Or is 212cc only one due to size without mod. necessary???


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

There is a grease fitting on the LH Flange. It will send Grease into the Diff. Good Used Diffs are around 40. Simp Solid-The 212 CC predator has Plenty of Power. Chute Mod and Impeller Seal Complete the Upgrade to Kick-Ass.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

Carb replaced. Ignition replaced. New Oil. Engine started on third pull and runs nicely. Now onto the drive system. The idler pulley lever is a bit crooked and wiggles back and forth a LOT. Seems like it is missing the retainer bolt but it is not possible to see it behind/underneath the main drive pulley. What do I need to look for? A simple washer and locknut maybe? I'll probably need to drop the bucket off to get easier access...


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

Figured it out. Bolt is accessible from underneath so I tightened it and added a locking nut on the back. Next task is to free up the friction wheel slide and then figure out how to replace the rubber wheel which looks to be a big job to get it out and off of the shaft.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Have fun...a nice project. If you aren't a purist...the 212 Predator is a nice upgrade. always fun though to make the old Tec's purr again though....And if you've got three blowers, you got backup!


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

Engine runs really nicely. How to unstuck the friction drive wheel from the hex shaft in there? Maybe I should just pull it out since the rubber wheel is totally shot anyhow. Unsure how it comes out though.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

*Drive is apart*

Got the friction drive assembly out today. What a royal PITA this assembly is! The stuck shafts made it harder to get out in one piece and the spring tension makes it really hard to get them out. This is not an easily serviceable assembly. Unsure how to easiest reassemble it. Are there any guides or how-to's?

Why do my pictures always show sideways no matter how I edit/rotate/save them before uploading?


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

59, that is indeed a PITA to remove, take apart and re-assemble.

There's a manual for the 10M-L60 and 10M-L35 that goes into detail with instructions for how to disassemble and replace the disc. In short, you'll work right to left. The main locknut on the end of the hex shaft opposite the sprocket, then the 4 nuts on the bearing flange on the sprocket side, then the hex shaft should eventually slide out to the left and the hub/disc will hopefully slide off. Then, the hub has 5 bolts holding the disc itself.

Make sure the 3 bearings are tight. I had to change out the thrust bearing inside the sliding fork to get my 910962 to shift correct. It should be a Timken T126.

Re-assembly in the frame wasn't that bad at all except for that tension spring disc frame to tractor frame. That took me an hour alone. I replaced the frame end first (two holes in the right corner front of the frame the loop fits thru), then had to bend the loop on the other end that attaches to the disc frame and use a long hook/pick set piece to pull that spring into place on the disc frame, along with the help of a long strong screwdriver to force the tip into place. Major league pain to do.

Of course I also did this laying on my back on my shed floor with the frame on jack stands. That certainly didn't help. But once it all went back together, just a matter of adjusting the clutch rod length to the throwout lever and it shifts into the neutral catch correct now.

I'll link my thread on the ordeal in a moment.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

here you go

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...910962-neutral-catch-slop-thrust-bearing.html


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I agree that that is likely one of the hardest transmissions to work on. I don't know of another way other than to pull it out.

.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

The instructions in the manual state it can be done with the frame still in, but in effect those are for changing the disc only.

I still get the creeps just thinking of doing that again. It wasn't fun, and I had the double duty of teaching myself what really was going on at the same time - so it probably took 4x the usual amount of time an expert would take. But, that's how one learns.

Now though? Bring it on, in a "if I ever have to do it again, OK I'll do it" type way. I hope to never have to do it again.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

tlshawks said:


> 59, that is indeed a PITA to remove, take apart and re-assemble.
> 
> There's a manual for the 10M-L60 and 10M-L35 that goes into detail with instructions for how to disassemble and replace the disc. In short, you'll work right to left. The main locknut on the end of the hex shaft opposite the sprocket, then the 4 nuts on the bearing flange on the sprocket side, then the hex shaft should eventually slide out to the left and the hub/disc will hopefully slide off. Then, the hub has 5 bolts holding the disc itself.
> 
> ...


THANKS for the info. I have the drive frame out and apart now. I am still trying to understand how your unit was caught in neutral. Mine as well was stuck in neutral and would not move. I see the claw and the tab on the frame but I am unsure how it could be hung up on the tab. I suppose I should just replace all the bearings when it is apart given the amount of work this is.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

You want it to actually hang onto the tab to actually be in neutral. What mine was doing was not reaching enough around the bracket "tab" (aka neutral catch in the parts manual) to catch it. I'd pull on the clutch lever, then shift - and the claw would impact the side of the neutral catch tab, but not reach over and around it. In my thread, you can see the tip of the claw in one of the pictures. Material had been chipped away because I kept forcing the shift over and over, it'd hit the side of that tab. 20 or so years of it, little chips broke off.

No matter how much I played with the length of the clutch rod, I couldn't get enough "throw" on the disc frame for that claw to reach over and around the tab.

When you shift from reverse to any forward gear, you pull on the clutch lever and then the shift handle in unison. The sliding fork will then travel upon the hex shaft and fork shaft left and right and that hook's tip should reach over the tab clearing it.

Then if you shift into neutral - when you release the clutch lever, the disc frame will then pivot slight back towards the drive plate via the spring tension and the fork "claw" will impact onto that tab on the disc frame and hold it there tight - holding the entire frame away from the drive plate and therefore the friction disc with it. 

If the claw doesn't clear the tab, it will be to either side of the catch or in front of it...and the friction disc will (because the spring is pulling on the disc bracket) be impacting against the drive plate.

That's why they refer it to as a "neutral catch". The claw at the top end of the fork catches the tab when you're truly in neutral. You'll know neutral works correct when 1) the clutch lever will not have tension against it (there will be some play to the lever, the handle itself will sort of "hang" and be easily movable) and 2) the machine, with clutch lever released - will move around freely because the disc is not up against the drive plate.

Most people don't know about how this works (I presume anyway) because their's works fine. Mine didn't. Every time I'd release the clutch lever, even though my shifter said it was in neutral, I couldn't move the machine around freely. And if the machine was running, it acted like it wanted to move away on me with the clutch lever released, depending on which side of "true neutral" the friction disc was residing...just barely between neutral and 1st or neutral and reverse.


It took studying this assembly while installed a long time to figure out how the pieces of the puzzle worked together. I finally figured it out via looking at it shifting from under the tractor frame, bottom cover off, and a friend pulling on the shift lever and shifting. I noticed on my 910962 while the bracket pivoted fine, the thrust bearing (therefore the fork itself) stayed more or less in place - and I could see grease squeezed out from the inner race as the inner race moved within the outer race. I could see the play in the bearing! Then we did the exact same test with my 910965, and the thrust bearing came along with the pivoting of the frame itself because with the bearing there was zero play on the inside.

It was the ONLY thing one machine to the other that was different.

When I had it all apart, I'd take the old bearing and stick my finger in the inner race and hold it on the outside - I could move the inner race side to side. Then the new bearing, tight as a tick. Re-installed, the '962 looked exactly the '965 shifting...and it'd truly "catch" neutral after some clutch rod length tweaking.

It was so subtle - and if I didn't have the other near exact machine as a guide, I'd have never figured it out. I was losing, tops...maybe one sixteenth to an eighth of an inch at the claw. That's all it took. The fork simply wasn't "coming with the frame fully on the hex shaft" when I pulled on the clutch lever.

Replaced the thrust bearing, voila. Fixed. 

There's only been a couple threads here about it other than mine. If your fork's thrust bearing is tight, probably isn't an issue. Mine was terribly worn - my hunch is maybe it wasn't packed with grease properly at install and wore down.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

*How to get the spring back on?*

New bearings and drive wheel are installed. The transmission is in but I am unsure how to pull the tension spring back into where it is supposed to be. Is the trick to remove the front bucket from the tractor so as to see/hook onto the spring?


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

There should be two holes on the upper right side corner front of the frame. I hooked the loop for that end first. The trick there is once the end goes through the first hole, you have to angle the spring via turning it until you see the tip of the loop then go through the second hole.

Then, while keeping tension on the spring to where the loop stays through both holes, I opened up the other end's loop to where it was closer to say a near right angle versus the spring body while still being able to grab it via a pick hook. Then I used that long pick hook to grab the rear loop to pull it back towards the rear of the tractor frame and the corner of the friction disc bracket. I believe I actually had to place the hook through the exterior of the tractor frame through a tiny opening in the rear upper right corner of the tractor frame to be able to pull it in the correct direction (more or less level with the top of the frame).

I then used a long stiff flat blade screwdriver to, while stretching the spring, push the spring tip towards the hole in the disc bracket. Once I got the loop tip through the hole on the disc bracket, I then re-bent the loop with a long needle nose pliers to where it'd stay in position.

I don't know if attaching the spring at both ends before putting the fork shaft and bracket pin back in would work or not. To me it'd mean I'd have to push the entire frame under spring tension to force those into their spots...that's seemed like it'd be more clumsy/difficult to do. Who knows, though...maybe it's easier.

But getting that spring in...that was the hardest part about re-assembly considering I was upside down, on my back, while doing it. If I had a second person there to pull on the pick...much much easier. I'm assuming it's also a lot easier if the tractor frame is upside down on a workbench with no engine etc mounted.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

59ctd said:


> New bearings and drive wheel are installed. The transmission is in but I am unsure how to pull the tension spring back into where it is supposed to be. Is the trick to remove the front bucket from the tractor so as to see/hook onto the spring?


Trust me, those two holes for that end of the spring, they're in that corner. You can actually see them denoted in the parts manual. If my memory is good, you have to be looking straight up at the front panel of the tractor frame from underneath it to be able to see the two holes...then thread the spring end through them via the right side open area.

It's tricky, but it can be done. I tried taking the belt cover off and threading them through that way, but couldn't. It's easier from underneath...just gotta use the only angle to see the holes while positioning the spring loop tip through one hole, then the other.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Here's the pick and hook set I used...couldn't have done it without it.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/automotive-tools-shop-equipment/performax-reg-6-piece-hook-pick-set/menw942/p-1452112273378-c-9113.htm?tid=-8477624847954180521&ipos=2


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

tlshawks said:


> Trust me, those two holes for that end of the spring, they're in that corner. You can actually see them denoted in the parts manual. If my memory is good, you have to be looking straight up at the front panel of the tractor frame from underneath it to be able to see the two holes...then thread the spring end through them via the right side open area.
> 
> It's tricky, but it can be done. I tried taking the belt cover off and threading them through that way, but couldn't. It's easier from underneath...just gotta use the only angle to see the holes while positioning the spring loop tip through one hole, then the other.


Thanks tlshawks for the help! That transmission assembly and the spring are a huge PITA to service. I did not remove the rear end of the spring from the transmission frame. I uncoupled the bucket/scoop on front. Then, lying on the floor by the left of the tractor using right hand can hold the spring loop end up and then 'catch' it with a wire hook through the hole on the front of the tractor. There is some significant tension there to pull the rubber drive wheel into the drive platter. The neutral catch seems to work properly. I have to say this is a wacko design with the auger fully engaged and the reverse clutch (more like a vehicle) the machine will keep going all by itself all the way down the street chewing up everything that might be in the way!


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

Now the only piece I need is a replacement black plastic handle for the chute crank control arm...


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Awesome, 59, good to hear. 

Oh, it's not for the timid, that's for sure. I'm sure the guys that post here that have done dozens of them have tricks I don't know, and I was teaching myself how they all fit together while doing the work, but when I got that spring on, I swear I heard angels singing and a light shone through the roof of my shed.

That spring took an hour all by itself. Half of that hour was simply thinking it all through...how the heck am I going to do this with the tools I have here and now. Then I thought, what can I use to make a strong but thin hook...didn't have anything, went to Menards, voila.

I'll have to remember how you did it. I swear, I couldn't figure out a way through the front panel...next time I take off the belt cover I'll give it a good thorough look to figure out how you did it.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

*It Works!*

Tractor drive assembly is fixed. Blower unit works properly. Brush attachment works properly. This thing is huge with the brush on it!

I tried to attach a short mp4 of the unit running but apparently SBF does not allow mp4 video files.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

59ctd said:


> Tractor drive assembly is fixed. Blower unit works properly. Brush attachment works properly. This thing is huge with the brush on it!
> 
> I tried to attach a short mp4 of the unit running but apparently SBF does not allow mp4 video files.


Wow, looks cool!
Do you have a youtube account? If not, its easy to create one. Thats the easiest way to share videos.

Scot


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Looking good! Always good to keep these old machines running. Treat 'em well, last forever.

BTW for the chute crank, the "grip" part is 10197 (01019700) and it's wooden, with a push cap for it to hold it on (0101980). You might be able to make one easily, or I'd bet someone here like Jackmels has a bunch of them.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

sscotsman said:


> Wow, looks cool!
> Do you have a youtube account? If not, its easy to create one. Thats the easiest way to share videos.
> 
> Scot


Let me know if this does not work...


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Sounds like a fine running H50 to me  

Love those old Tecumseh H series engines. Simple to work on, take care of them and they'll last forever.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

59ctd said:


> Let me know if this does not work...


it worked!
very nice!

Scot


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

Are these 10M5 machines normally tipped back a bit like this one is? The bucket has 1/2" thick metal welded on to replace the skid wear surfaces so it makes sense it is tipped back slightly with the scoop bucket on. With the sweep on it is also tipped back about the same angle. The sweeper side wheels appear to be correctly set for height as the brush is just barely contacting the floor. It is almost like the tires should be about 1" to 1.5" larger in diameter for it to sit level.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

59ctd said:


> Are these 10M5 machines normally tipped back a bit like this one is?



No, with the standard bucket they dont tip back like that, they sit level.
The tip on yours is clearly from the custom brush attachment.
personally, I wouldnt bother to try to "fix" the tip, it wont hurt anything..not worth messing with IMO..


Scot


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## stanz (Mar 17, 2015)

That engine looks like a mix of new and old components. My old Tecumseh starters have the plug mounted on the starter, not the newer square top mount. (see picture) I have also seen top mount plugs with exposed plug ends.

The black engine with the old carb mount is another oddity. It should be white. The black 5hp engines use the newer carb mount.

The brush attachment sits level on the tractors with the big wheels. I have a brush and the two different style tractors.

You should replace the clutch ball joint if you haven't already. It's no fun when it comes apart and keep on going forward.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

stanz said:


> That engine looks like a mix of new and old components. My old Tecumseh starters have the plug mounted on the starter, not the newer square top mount. (see picture) I have also seen top mount plugs with exposed plug ends.
> 
> The black engine with the old carb mount is another oddity. It should be white. The black 5hp engines use the newer carb mount.
> 
> ...


Yeah, it appears to be a mix of original and newer parts. Muffler, carb, and ignition are brand new. The brush sweep has a few tight spots in the drive chain which make it wobble/jump a bit. The starter and plug on top do look to be quite a bit newer. For a 5hp, the engine is physically quite a bit larger than the bit more newer 5hp engines. It is somewhere in between the size of my '78 H50 and the '74 HM80 engines. One thing for certain is that it sure starts and run nicely. Easily the best starting of the three Airens units that I own. Clutch ball joint seems tight but I hear ya, that would be a pain if it came off and no way to easily stop the machine. Why on earth they designed it with a clutch like this is baffling. Stay warm!


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