# hs 1332 hydrostatic fluid leak at drive shaft seal (right side)



## Doctor (Mar 22, 2018)

I have a leak in my honda hs1332 snowblower.

the shaft that drives the right track has a seal coming out of the transmission (seems to have slipped out), and it wet of the hst fluid. so how do i fix this.
i have ordered the seal (part number 91272-733-931 OIL SEAL)

will this fix the problem, once i replace the seal and fill with 37 ounces of HST fluid.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Doctor said:


> I have a leak in my honda hs1332 snowblower.
> 
> the shaft that drives the right track has a seal coming out of the transmission (seems to have slipped out), and it wet of the hst fluid. so how do i fix this.
> i have ordered the seal (part number 91272-733-931 OIL SEAL)
> ...



You'd have to install the seal and then bleed the transmission in order to make sure it works properly.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JnC said:


> You'd have to install the seal and then bleed the transmission in order to make sure it works properly.


can you push the seal back in somehow and get it to stay? the honda dealer told me they just push them back in but i thought if it came out in the first place it would just come out again.

the mechanic there said it was because the reservoir cap is on too tight and building up pressure in the tranny. what else would cause the seal to push out do you think?


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## alphaboy123 (Oct 27, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> can you push the seal back in somehow and get it to stay? the honda dealer told me they just push them back in but i thought if it came out in the first place it would just come out again.
> 
> 
> 
> the mechanic there said it was because the reservoir cap is on too tight and building up pressure in the tranny. what else would cause the seal to push out do you think?


Hi there... i think i have the same issue. Can you send me a picture? Also were you able to push this in?

Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

alphaboy123 said:


> Hi there... i think i have the same issue. Can you send me a picture? Also were you able to push this in?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk


since that ancient post have done this successfully 3-4 times. yes , the seal can be pushed back in ( in most cases and stay put ) and then you have to bleed the air out of the hydrostatic tranny and add new oil.

what do you need pic of? the seals are at the tranny where the drive shafts come out of. the best way to push it back in is to put machine up on it's nose and use a pry bar. you may have to take one of those cross plates off to get better access. a forked type pry bar would work better.

after the seal is pushed back in . remove drain plug from hydro while machine is still on it's nose and fill it with hydrostatic oil. it must be Honda hydro oil.

you're halfway home.

then place machine back on ground and SLOWLY fill reservoir and watch for air bubbles. I also run engine and pull drive handle down while in neutral to try to exit more air. not sure if this helps but it seems like more air is expelled doing this.

after awhile the air bubbles will stop and you should be good to go.


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## HRTKD (Apr 1, 2020)

Old thread, but it was a great help to me today and I wanted to say thank you. 

My HS928TAS blew the seals out yesterday. I figured I was looking at a very expensive trip for repair. I pushed the seals back in and it seems to be working OK.

Is there any word on what causes these seals to come out? I was working the transmission back and forth harder than normal trying to get at a drift. An aftermarket carburetor that I put on last year seems to be running the engine a couple hundred more RPM. Too much pressure on the transmission?


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## HRTKD (Apr 1, 2020)

Update on my situation. Pushing the seals back in worked, but only for a couple days. Eventually, all the fluid leaked out. 

I have no time or experience dealing with a Honda transmission. What are the options? Is this a complete transmission replacement? Is the seal kit mentioned in the first post going to be a complete fix? How much am I looking at to have the local shop do the fix?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

HRTKD said:


> Update on my situation. Pushing the seals back in worked, but only for a couple days. Eventually, all the fluid leaked out.
> 
> I have no time or experience dealing with a Honda transmission. What are the options? Is this a complete transmission replacement? Is the seal kit mentioned in the first post going to be a complete fix? How much am I looking at to have the local shop do the fix?


If the seals came out easily then yes you need to replace seals. The seals either push out from too much pressure ( was told it is because cap is on too tight on the reservoir and it can not breathe) or the seals dried out and cracked.

To replace the seals is a expensive job unless you do it your self. The tracks, wheels, side covers, and engine bed sides, have to be removed. I would guess it is about a 2-2.5 hour shop time job plus cost of seals and oil . Probably about $250-300. You'll have to ask your local Honda dealer.

Most likely the hydostatic tranny is okay. New seals and new hydro oil with the system bled and she should be good to go. Something like this, if I were doing it, I would replace side cover bearings and service the right side gearbox since the engine bed covers are off.

It would depend on how good the condition of the rest of the machine was in the first place.


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## HRTKD (Apr 1, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> If the seals came out easily then yes you need to replace seals. The seals either push out from too much pressure ( was told it is because cap is on too tight on the reservoir and it can not breathe) or the seals dried out and cracked.
> 
> To replace the seals is a expensive job unless you do it your self. The tracks, wheels, side covers, and engine bed sides, have to be removed. I would guess it is about a 2-2.5 hour shop time job plus cost of seals and oil . Probably about $250-300. You'll have to ask your local Honda dealer.
> 
> ...


The machine is in very good condition. The engine runs great, auger and tracks all work like they are supposed to when the transmission isn't leaking fluid.

I looked at the service manual as well as a couple posts on servicing the gearbox. It sounds like a more involved project than I'm willing to take on. Thanks for the information!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

HRTKD said:


> The machine is in very good condition. The engine runs great, auger and tracks all work like they are supposed to when the transmission isn't leaking fluid.
> 
> I looked at the service manual as well as a couple posts on servicing the gearbox. It sounds like a more involved project than I'm willing to take on. Thanks for the information!


okay , I'll give you a $100 for it,,,,,,


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## HRTKD (Apr 1, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> okay , I'll give you a $100 for it,,,,,,


Ha! I already had way more than that offered on a trade-in. The features of the new units are nice, but I'm going to stick with this one. Repair is less expensive than replacement. It's been a solid, reliable unit, even though the carburetor gets replaced about every four years.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

HRTKD said:


> Ha! I already had way more than that offered on a trade-in. The features of the new units are nice, but I'm going to stick with this one. Repair is less expensive than replacement. It's been a solid, reliable unit, even though the carburetor gets replaced about every four years.


carb being replaced every 4 years must mean something. I work on Honda carbs all the time and they last 20-25-30 years and more. replace the tank if any rust in it. an aftermarket Honda tank is 35 buckerooski. Use fresh gas treated with Stabil. Ethanol free gas if you can find it.

how about posting some pics, rookie........


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## HRTKD (Apr 1, 2020)

Ethanol-free fuel is the norm for my power equipment. The seals in the carburetors went south every time I put the snowblower away for the summer with the fuel drained out of the carb. It took me a while to figure that one out. Now, I leave fuel in the tank and in the carb.

The tank is clean as can be. No rust seen at all. New fuel line installed last year, probably unnecessary. The old line was clean, with no deterioration.


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## HRTKD (Apr 1, 2020)

Update to this thread: The transmission leak became so bad that the snowblower wouldn't move. A fill of hydrostatic fluid wouldn't last more than a few hours. I took it to the local repair facility and they replaced three seals and (as I recall) cleaned the internals. It's back to running right with no leaks. Hopefully I'll get another 16 years out of it.


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