# Stuck Wheel on axle



## hankster1 (Sep 10, 2013)

I am attempting to remove the stuck wheel on my MTD project Blower. The wheel on the right side came right off so I can replace the broken bushing behind it. I drilled a hole in the left hub behind the wheel so I could spray some penetrating oil there. I am hoping this will break the rust so I can pull it off as well. Then I plan on putting a grease nipples into the holes so I can keep the wheels greased. Next I need to free up the sized auger in the front and put some grease nipples there as well.
Hank


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

I had that on a Bolens. One wheel came off fine, one had to have the wheel chiseled off the hub, and the hub split down both sides to get it off the axle. See if you can get it up on it's side to get the penetrating oil in easier.


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

A few tricks from an old millwright that you might want to try:
For the auger:
Get two good sized hammers, put one against the back side of the tube and strike the front side, firm but don't deform it. Rotate the auger so you can work your way all the way around and repeat for the entire length. The backing hammer is important.
Failing that, try lots of heat.
For the hub, I would try lots of heat, being CAREFUL not to set the tire on fire. This of course is assuming that you have access to a good torch.
Good luck.
Larry


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I had an Ariens with only 1 auger stuck. I removed the gearbox from the front scoop, removed the free auger, turned the assembly sideways, put 2 jackstands under the auger, reinserted the bolt into the auger shaft and then proceeded to use a sledge hammer on it.

Eventually it worked. Not sure if that will work for you or not though as the old Ariens augers have a very heavy duty angle iron type U-channel on the sides of the augers.

I have also heard of using pipe wrenches to twist augers free as well as long 2x4s wedged into the spirals. If you try a twisting method be sure to twist against the auger on the other side of the shaft and not twist against the gears in the gearbox. You don't want to trash your gearbox attempting to get them off.

The other thing I have heard (mostly on rototiller wheels) is people pull the pins / shear bolts and then just run the machine. Eventually the torque and vibration on the parts breaks them loose during normal use. That won't work so well if your wheels are keyed to the shaft, but if there is just a pin in them it can help if the machine is usable.

You said you got one wheel off the blower. Usually you can get the gears off the inside and just pull the whole axle to get to the bushing on the other side. It might be "more work" than removing the other wheel, but in the long run it might be a lot easier and quicker to take the whole transmission apart.


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## hankster1 (Sep 10, 2013)

I got it apart ok, The penetrating oil worked and now I installed grease nipples into the holes behind the wheels and can keep it all greased up. I removed the bolts that were in the holes for the shear pins on the front auger and was able to break them loose by working them back and forth. I was going to spray some rust protectant in there then put the proper shear pins into the holes. Thanks for the suggestions and the help.
Hank


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Glad you were able to get things free without too much perspiration Hankster. 

Good idea about pulling the pins and just working the machine Shryp!


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

Good reason for preventative maint. At the end of each season, I block up the blower, remove the wheels, wax them up and smear a bit of grease on the axles. PM goes a long way


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