# I'm going to weld this sob



## powerwrench (Aug 29, 2013)

so my 1972 toro 832 keeps breaking the shear pin for the big sprocket that drives the tires every time i catch the side of the snow bank or I'm pushing it thew that crusty half ice half snow crap so I'm thinking on doing two spot welds one on reach side. do you guys think thats a good idea. i really hate tipping the snow blower up to a good working hight and unbolting the bottom cover and going out and getting another one.


----------



## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

You may fix the shear pin issue, but its only going to transfer the problem up the drive train. I understand your frustration, but I am not certain that this approach will ultimately solve your problem.


----------



## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

Breaking shear pins in the traction drive train... that's odd.

Have you been replacing it with the OEM part? Not all pins are created equal and you may be perpetuating an initial mistake.

Pete


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If you wanted to try something you could use a bolt, like a grade 5 only and hope it didn't do any damage to the transmission. Welding would invite a major failure someplace else. It's hard to understand that you get enough traction to bust the shear pin just running up into something unless you're going at full speed ??


----------



## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

Any place there is a shear pin, there is a reason. They are the failsafe for that system to prevent catastrophic failure of the expensive stuff. I wouldn't weld it. I would find out why it keeps shearing. Seems like the belt would slip or the friction tire would skid before the pin would shear in your situation. I would think a shear pin on the sprocket would be insurance against a foreign object jam to the gear itself. MH


----------



## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

powerwrench said:


> so my 1972 toro 832 keeps breaking the shear pin for the big sprocket that drives the tires every time i catch the side of the snow bank or I'm pushing it thew that crusty half ice half snow crap so I'm thinking on doing two spot welds one on reach side. do you guys think thats a good idea. i really hate tipping the snow blower up to a good working hight and unbolting the bottom cover and going out and getting another one.


As was stated.... the shear pin was put in place to protect from a catastrophic parts failure as a result of sudden shock or extreme loads. 

I have a question from your statement "catch the side" or "push it thew that". Have you give any thought to operating the machine a little less force and a little more care around the side of snowbanks? I have owned several 2 stage snowblowers and never had to "push them thew" anything. Usually when my tires/chains being to to slip/spin I let off the drive and evaluate a different approach. Every machine has a breaking point and perhaps your level of operation is pushing your 42 year machine beyond its limits. 

That being said, hit it with some 1/8 or 3/16 6010 rod somewhere between 105 and 220 amps. What size shaft 3/4 or 1"? You might want disassemble it to clean/degrease the weld area to avoid porosity in your weld......I would also give it some preheat to the area to be welded depending on the thickness of the shaft and size of the gear.


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

you may have another problem like a stretched chain or a bad bushing that is causing binding and putting extra stress on the shear pin.


----------



## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

I would go with the grade 5 bolt. It's harder than the shear bolt but can still snap if needed. I do not see why there would be a shear pin there in the first place. Go on the toro web site and lock up your blowers part diagram and see whats there.


----------



## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

if you weld it i have a feeling that i'll have plenty of parts to come pick up for my 826


----------



## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

I've never replaced a shear pin in the drivetrain before. But I would assume that the same principle applies as with the auger shearpins. Allow for some play and not snugged down.


----------



## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

I would not weld it. As has been earlier stated, what you seem to have is an indication of a deeper problem. You are wanting to treat the symptom instead of the illness. If it were mine, I'd be looking deeper.
JMHO
Larry


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Like WestminsterFJR until recently I didn't even know there was one in there  as I've never broken one and I've been running various blowers since the late sixties on a number of different houses, paved, gravel, city and country.

I think he's just expressing frustration and not serious about welding as it would make removing the axle difficult or impossible should some other repair or maintenance be needed in there.

If you haven't already it's time to get the exact Toro shear pins for the unit and give them a try. Maybe you've been getting cheap/soft shear bolts or one size too small that aren't the right ones but like I said, you could try a grade 5 bolt and if you want to get crazy go to grade 8 that isn't threaded that first 1"-1.5". That would be close to welding it 

I don't see how you get enough traction to put that much stress on the shear pin. ??


----------



## Mr Fixit (Nov 19, 2013)

40 years experience tells me there is more to this story. I doubt your shear pins are the correct ones. Part numbers are often substituted with no information to base their decision. Try the #5 bolt before welding. Break that and you need an tear down to resolve this incredible torque issue.
Also it's VERY important the hole is snug to the pin. Slap is like when you give your vehicle 6 feet of slack before starting the pull on the chain to pull a stuck vehicle. The hit breaks an otherwise perfect size chain for the task. New Holland was famous for that, big S. pin holes. You had to buy shear pins by the box!
I don't think welding is a solution.


----------



## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

Welding here is akin to putting a penny in the fuse box. Yeah, it brings life by to the system, often followed by sudden death. MH


----------



## powerwrench (Aug 29, 2013)

woodtick007 said:


> As was stated.... the shear pin was put in place to protect from a catastrophic parts failure as a result of sudden shock or extreme loads.
> 
> I have a question from your statement "catch the side" or "push it thew that". Have you give any thought to operating the machine a little less force and a little more care around the side of snowbanks? I have owned several 2 stage snowblowers and never had to "push them thew" anything. Usually when my tires/chains being to to slip/spin I let off the drive and evaluate a different approach. Every machine has a breaking point and perhaps your level of operation is pushing your 42 year machine beyond its limits.
> 
> That being said, hit it with some 1/8 or 3/16 6010 rod somewhere between 105 and 220 amps. What size shaft 3/4 or 1"? You might want disassemble it to clean/degrease the weld area to avoid porosity in your weld......I would also give it some preheat to the area to be welded depending on the thickness of the shaft and size of the gear.


ok so i take it that welding it is a bad idea. so ill go and buy a grade 5 bolt. i miss led you when i wrote i push it thew i let it do its own thing and if its slipping i give it slight nudges to get it going but nothing forceful. to answers some other questions the drive chain is not stretched and bushings are fine. when i had it apart to paint it i looked over very part to see if it needs to be replaced and every thing was still good. but i guess it doesn't help it weighing so much. i baby my toro so i don't want you guys to think i beat on it.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

See this thread. This guy had the same problem on a Craftsman and has learned to be more gentle on his equipment and seems to have solved his problems.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...11425-craftsman-eager-1-axle-shear-bolts.html


----------



## powerwrench (Aug 29, 2013)

Shryp said:


> See this thread. This guy had the same problem on a Craftsman and has learned to be more gentle on his equipment and seems to have solved his problems.
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...11425-craftsman-eager-1-axle-shear-bolts.html


his problem sounds like mine but the times that the bolt broke i was in first gear granny gear so no speed there. but i slaped her into first and go thew snow banks that are as tall at the snowblower but letting her take her time and no problem's. I'm just thinking i bought to week of a bolt.


----------



## brickcity (Jan 23, 2014)

powerwrench said:


> his problem sounds like mine but the times that the bolt broke i was in first gear granny gear so no speed there. but i slaped her into first and go thew snow banks that are as tall at the snowblower but letting her take her time and no problem's. I'm just thinking i bought to week of a bolt.


glad i read this thread. this past storm of 10" i broke three shear pins that i bought on amazon for less than half the price of original pins. they look exacxtly the same and i assumed you don't have to pay $2.50 for a bolt that could be duplicated for pennies but i think i may wind up throwing them away. not worth the hassle changing pins in 5 degree weather.


----------



## JerryD (Jan 19, 2014)

If it comes down to replacing the shear bolt with a conventional bolt, I would start with an el cheapo grade 2 hardware store bolt before I jumped up to a grade 5.


----------

