# My '68 rebuild.



## NorthwoodsTodd (Oct 3, 2015)

Instead of asking a bunch of questions I might as well just make a thread on my machine. 

I picked up a 68 6hp sno-throw at the end of last winter. Everything ran pretty smoothly the twice I tried it out before the snow melted. Just a little tuning and cleaning and fixing a flat tire. 

I've been pretty busy but in the last month I took the tecumseh apart (not the crank case or blower assembly) cleaned the carb and painted everything a semi gloss black. I think I have it mostly put back together but I have two stalls. I need a longer fuel line - Jacks sent the wrong size easy fix - and I can't remember where the ground wire was attached. 

Any help here? I'm hoping to have it fired up today and I'll post pics. Any other points of concern or recommendations welcome.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to SBF Todd. There are two ground wires I can think of, but since you probably removed the recoil shroud to replace the fuel line, the ground wire from the ignition coil goes underneath the screw that holds the condenser in place. The other ground I know of goes on to a tab attached to a nylon insulating block on the throttle linkage.


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## NorthwoodsTodd (Oct 3, 2015)

Thanks found it! 

Dumped a little gas it to fire up and found a bad leak at the main carb adjustment needle (bottom) and a slight drip by the fuel tank valve. It stopped when I shut the valve. 

I'm missed the small o-ring at the carb screw but it's MIA so I guess I need to get another. It sure where the other leal is coming from yet. 

Another question, after taking the carb off again I notice it's too close to the breather. With the breather on I can't even put the carb bowl back in. Did I miss something putting it back on?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

NorthwoodsTodd said:


> Another question, after taking the carb off again I notice it's too close to the breather. With the breather on I can't even put the carb bowl back in. Did I miss something putting it back on?


I can't visualize what your talking about, a picture would help us.


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## NorthwoodsTodd (Oct 3, 2015)

Got if figured out! Had it installed backward so the "cup" was out not in of that makes sense. New seals on the carb and no leak. Beast fired up with a little starting spray and ran like a champ. Just some tweaking on the idle screw and maybe the governor. Runs like a bat out of **** on full throttle. 

This is my first time putting together an engine. I feel like Dr. FRANKSTEIN. I'm looking forward to winter.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello Todd, glad to hear you figured out the carb problem. A word of caution, don't try to adjust the governor to obtain more speed if it has never been moved from the factory setting. There is usually a screw on the throttle linkage for setting max load speed (3400-3600 rpm) and "should" be set using a tachometer. The instructions can be found in the service manual. Remember to set the screw in the side of the carb for best running at idle or a little above. The screw on the bottom of the float bowl is adjusted for best running at full engine speed. Good luck.


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## NorthwoodsTodd (Oct 3, 2015)

Thanks for that. I just meant adjusting the linkage and arm to where it was. I never pulled the governor, just took the arm off. I notice there's not much movement in it so it should be pretty basic right? I have a guy across the street who knows small engines I might just ask for help.


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## NorthwoodsTodd (Oct 3, 2015)

Welcome to wisconsin, snow. Nice to see you! 

So I had the beast running this morning for 5 minutes before it failed and couldn't get it restarted. I had to use my old craftsman 20" for this crap. What's a good resource for replacement engines? I've seen a few of you using Predator engines. I just want something cheap that will work while I tinker with the old tecumseh a bit.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Let me just say that I am a big fan of the 6.5 hp (212cc) Predator from HF. I put one one my 10ML60 this past fall, just brought it out first time for this 1" of frozen slush, including the end of my double driveway from the town plow wind roll. All I can say is AWESOME !! It ran great, not one clog, threw that stuff on the lawn no problem. Did my neighbors as well. Best 99.00 (on sale) I ever spent.


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## NorthwoodsTodd (Oct 3, 2015)

That's what I'm looking at right now. Sounds to be a good solution instead of tinkering more with this old engine. Was it pretty much bolt on?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yes, however, you have to cut off the old engine mount studs, and drill out the remaining portion and install longer bolts to allow for the wider base on the newer engines. I also adjusted the chute crank rod bracket to allow for smooth operation, at least on my 10ML6, buy using one of the existing bracket holes and drilling another hole and using a bolt and nut in that hole, for new adjustment.


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