# Carb Leaking Gas



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

I noticed at the end of last season that the carburetor on my 2011 Ariens Deluxe 24" was seeping gas where the bowl meets the top of the carburetor. So, today I tried to fix it by simply replacing the float bowl gasket (Part 137D in the attached diagram). Unfortunately this didn't work. The dealer told me when I was picking up the gasket that I could simply put some grease on the old gasket and that would seal it, I tried that on the new gasket, and it didn't work. I'm definitely tightening the nut underneath and the rim of the bowl looks good. Why is this still seeping gas?

Carburetor Diagram


----------



## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Is the Float Level Adjustable? If Not, It's Time for a Needle and seat-OR-The Float may be bad.


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Not the gasket..sounds like a sticking float..
see:

http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/ariens/Page11.html#question4

for more detail..

have you been using gas with ethanol in it? that can be a factor..
if so, look to see if there is ethanol-free gas in your area:

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

Scot


----------



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

sscotsman said:


> Not the gasket..sounds like a sticking float..
> see:
> 
> The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.
> ...


This is what is driving me so crazy, I take GREAT care of all my equipment. There has never been a drop of gas in that machine that wasn't laced with Seafoam and sometimes even Sta-bil too.

When I changed the float gasket, the float itself looked perfect and didn't appear to stick at all. I have no idea what could be the cause of the leak. I'm no mechanic though, hopefully you guys can figure this out.


----------



## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

It may be frustating, but no matter how well built a machine is, how well taken care of something is, it is still just a mechanical device. And like any mechanical device, subject to failure, no guarantees or anything  The needle may not be sticking, it just may not be closing all the way which lets fuel past it when the engine is shut off, and there you have gas dripping out of the carb, though it may appear it is a gasket issue instead.


----------



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

GoBlowSnow said:


> It may be frustating, but no matter how well built a machine is, how well taken care of something is, it is still just a mechanical device. And like any mechanical device, subject to failure, no guarantees or anything  The needle may not be sticking, it just may not be closing all the way which lets fuel past it when the engine is shut off, and there you have gas dripping out of the carb, though it may appear it is a gasket issue instead.


The needle looks fine, clean as a whistle. However, maybe it has something to do with the port. Maybe I'll try spraying some carb. cleaner in there to loosen things up a bit??

One question: At the end of the needle there is a wire/metal "hanger" that is placed over the tab on the float. That wire/metal "hanger" has 2 loops, one on the right right and the other on the left. In the middle is what is hung from the tab on the float. Do these 2 loops face in toward the middle of the float, or out toward the outside of the float? Upon inspection, I really don't think it matters because the needle fits nicely inside the port either way.


----------



## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

Wow.. I've never seen a needle thingie like that before, I'm used to something like this:


----------



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Alright, this might be a stupid question, but is the float valve needle suppose to have a corresponding seat? There isn't one on the diagram, check out my original post, so there might not be. However, and remember I don't know much about carbs., I thought there is suppose to be a seat.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I have never done it myself, but I have read of people with briggs carbs using valve lapping compound on a Q-tip to polish the brass valve seat and cleaning it well before re-inserting the needle valve. Even a small nick, scratch or corrosion will prevent the needle from sealing against the seat.


----------



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Grunt said:


> I have never done it myself, but I have read of people with briggs carbs using valve lapping compound on a Q-tip to polish the brass valve seat and cleaning it well before re-inserting the needle valve. Even a small nick, scratch or corrosion will prevent the needle from sealing against the seat.


Thanks, but there is not seat. That's why I'm wondering if there is suppose to be one or not.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

The brass insert is the seat, as far as I know. That is why it is so important the needle and seat have to be nick free.

We can probably find you the engine service manual if you post what engine is on your blower.


----------



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Here is a link to the Briggs OHV service manual. I think your engine is the 15000 series? Unfortunately, it doesn't show the seat replacement procedure and that may only apply to older Briggs carbs. If the leak continues, you may need a new carb??


----------



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks Grunt. It did answer my question, there is no separate seat. The needle has a rubber tip that doubles as the seat.

I think I might bring it to the dealer. I know enough that I shouldn't mess with the carburetor. 

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk


----------



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Well, I just dropped it off at my dealer. I explained the problem and he basically said it's probably a bad inlet needle and caused by the Ethanol in the fuel.

This really P!!5535 me off!!!! I do everything right by using Seafoam in every tank full of gas. I run it until it's dry after the season is over and even drain the carburetor just to make sure every last drop of gone, but the rubber tip on the inlet needle is still effected to the point that I have to wait 5 weeks for my dealer to look at the machine, confirm his suspicion, and replace it.

I really want a 24" Ariens with fuel injection. No carburetors for me.


----------



## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

i am very curious to see what corn squeezins do to an efi unit that isnt properly "summerized"........i guess next fall will tell that story.


----------



## driz (Dec 19, 2013)

There is one stable product specifically for ethanol. You might try using that. I keep myself away from that **** foul crap with any small engine. Another thing you can do is to put a shut off valve above the carb. That ethanol gas will run your machine fine but you just can't leave the parts sitting in the stuff long term. I run all my stuff dry if I can nowadays especially for layup.


----------



## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Not to be nasty or anything,but I don't understand the concept of using Seafoam ,which is mostly alcohol, in gas laced with alcohol thinking it's going to help with the alcohol problems.

I had never even heard of Seafoam until a couple of years ago and noticed that most people think of it as a miracle cure,so I bought a can.The only thing I've found Seafoam useful for is adding it to fuel when a carb is slightly dirty and running a little rough.Sometimes it works,usually it doesn't.Throwing in some ordinary isopropyl alcohol would do the same thing,and it's cheaper.

When the can of Seafoam ran out,I never bought another.It just didn't seam to be a particularly useful product,in my opinion.

I put Stabil in every can of gas I buy and have very few gas-related issues.


----------



## driz (Dec 19, 2013)

Mike C. said:


> Not to be nasty or anything,but I don't understand the concept of using Seafoam ,which is mostly alcohol, in gas laced with alcohol thinking it's going to help with the alcohol problems.
> 
> I had never even heard of Seafoam until a couple of years ago and noticed that most people think of it as a miracle cure,so I bought a can.The only thing I've found Seafoam useful for is adding it to fuel when a carb is slightly dirty and running a little rough.Sometimes it works,usually it doesn't.Throwing in some ordinary isopropyl alcohol would do the same thing,and it's cheaper.
> 
> ...


Sea foam is good stuff, don't knock it. The trouble is that it will only do so much. It's more of a preventative . It will sometimes clean the crud up blocking a jet but as often won't in my experience. Especially when ethanol is involved. Still no snake oil comes close to hand cleaning in carb cleaner. My own experience is the tinier the carb jet the easier they plug. My mtd push mower gets the carb pulled every couple years due to a plugged jet. Since I switched to high test E0 I haven't seen it.


----------



## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

driz said:


> Sea foam is good stuff, don't knock it. The trouble is that it will only do so much. It's more of a preventative . It will sometimes clean the crud up blocking a jet but as often won't in my experience. .........QUOTE]
> 
> I agree-that's pretty much what I said.Seafoam is more of a cleaner than a fuel stabilizer/treatment,although the manufacturer would like you to believe it is a cure-all.One of the main ingredients in Stabil is mineral spirits,another good cleaning solvent.


----------



## carrie palmer (Nov 18, 2016)

The carburetor leak maybe because of different reasons , gasket could have gone bad, the unit caould be at too steep of an angle. Check oil to see if they smell like gas. If so the carburetor needle could be bad or the carburetor itself is clogged which is forcing gas into oil


----------



## driz (Dec 19, 2013)

You may be able to find a nice flat rubber gasket at a hardware store that will fit. Also a regular O ring might work for you. If you have a caterpillar place nearby go there. I once saw the stock of o rings at one of those places and it was staggering , all hanging on pegs on sheets of plywood covering an entire wall. Those cork gaskets OEM uses are cheap junk. I have never had anything but problems with them on numerous applications both new and age hardened.


----------

