# Friction drive disc replacement ...



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Hi, 

I have not been able to locate good detailed instructions (pictures would really be a plus,  ) on the replacement of the friction drive wheel on my older Ariens 10M4 series Sno Thro. I am mechanically inclined, and do all my repairs, including engine replacements. I am assuming on replacing this disc, that just about everything in the gear housing has to be dismantled in order to remove the friction disc. It appears that in newer models, they have corrected this issue, by leaving one end of the hex shaft (friction disc shaft) open for easy replacement. Unless I am missing something here, I guess I can expect to fully dismantle the inner workings in order to replace this disc. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

(footnote) It also appears to me that removing the engine, and taking the front auger drum off would allow for easy access to the inner workings by just laying it upside down .


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

You Should be able to tip the machine forward to work inside the chassis; sometimes you need some blocks or other support if you have the half bucket. That Friction wheel Will take some time. If you are mechanically inclined, it IS do-able, just take Your Time, and use Your Mechanical Sense.


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## ron3033 (Oct 22, 2015)

This may help you




 




 
This fellow Canadian donyboy73 has a youtube channel you can subscribe to, it is very helpful.

Hope this helps
ron3033


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## nervous (Nov 15, 2015)

Agreed, this is not that bad a job and as a wear item is pretty accessible by tipping the whole machine forward against a garage wall or similar.Four bolts hold on an easily removable plate. Two come out and two just loosen and keyhole off. The friction disc is very obvious with easy on and off. Just keep the grease off it and clean it good after installing a new one to be sure there is no grease on it from the installation. It a greasy environment in there except for the drive disc and plate.

Two consideration before tipping, minimal gas in the tank to avoid spillage when tipped up. And I'm not 100% sure if the oil needs to be drained. I don't believe its a requirement though. Someone can comment on that.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks Ron and Nervous, but this is an older unit, not one of the easy slide off newer type, unfortunately. My unit requires a complete dismantle to get the friction disc off, unlike the newer ones that slide off the end without a dismantle.


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## ron3033 (Oct 22, 2015)

Maybe this site? about 10m4

Ariens snow blower friction wheel

Ariens 10M4 Parts List and Diagram - (004501) : eReplacementParts.com

ron3033


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

UPDATE: Well, this morning the weather was nice, so I tackled the job. Removed the engine, took the front half (scoop) off, flipped it over and started to dismantle the pins, rods and chain in the drive mechanism within the frame housing. It would have been a little easier if the friction disc bracket lower rod had not been rusted together. All I did to get around that was to remove one wheel and pry the frame out slightly to get the entire lower rod out of its holes in the frame housing. Everything actually went well in the dismantle and reassembly, just allow yourself enough time. Machine back up and running great. Replaced a wheel woodruff key as well while I was at it, and gave it a cleaning and grease job in the gear housing.


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## ron3033 (Oct 22, 2015)

oneacer said:


> UPDATE: Well, this morning the weather was nice, so I tackled the job. Removed the engine, took the front half (scoop) off, flipped it over and started to dismantle the pins, rods and chain in the drive mechanism within the frame housing. It would have been a little easier if the friction disc bracket lower rod had not been rusted together. All I did to get around that was to remove one wheel and pry the frame out slightly to get the entire lower rod out of its holes in the frame housing. Everything actually went well in the dismantle and reassembly, just allow yourself enough time. Machine back up and running great. Replaced a wheel woodruff key as well while I was at it, and gave it a cleaning and grease job in the gear housing.


I guess it is too late to see a photo of the drive train to see what was different?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I attached some photos after I had changed out the disc and put it back together. But you can see, my 10M4 model has a closed in Hex shaft on both ends, which had to be removed entirely to change out the disc and install new one..


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Here are the photos .......


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## ron3033 (Oct 22, 2015)

Thank for pics!
Did you use after market or an Ariens friction disc?
I see you repowered the machine with a B&S. Difficult to do or a bolt in place and go?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I used an aftermarket disc, worked great, here is the link:







Also the B&S replacement on this machine went great. I did it a couple years ago, here is the thread:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/252-what-relacement-engine.html

Also if you look behind this machine in the completed view, you will see my 10M6 that I just put one of the 212cc (6.5 hp roughly) Predator 99.00 engine on from Harbor Freight. Runs great as well. Next to that is my big gun, my 7100-2 Yardman. here is the link for that one:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/yard-man-snowblowers/345-yardman-model-7100-2-a.html


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