# ‘89 Yamaha YS624TE (track/electric start)



## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I picked this up for a couple hundred and I think it is an '89. The FSM with my serial number range says YS624TE while on unit itself just YS624T. Serial number is in picture below.

Previous owner didn't really use it much. He had picked up from one of the churches in town and left the gas in it. I will obviously need to clean the carb. New fuel, it is making it to carb but no fire. A few shots of starting fluid... starts up for a second no problem and strong spark. So fuel isn't making it far in the carb. Trying to study up on all the FSM content as I don't know anything about these. My only other snowblower is one of those rebranded AYP Husqvarnas from '08 and while it isn't that well made and occasionally breaks I've kept it going for this long. I've always wanted a track one and seems in decent shape. A little bit of surface rust in lower area behind auger but really minimal. I think it was typically kept in the garage except the last year with previous owner.

I really haven't cleaned it up or anything. Belts look ok but gonna get some spares. I thought I saw a thread about some cheaper Honda alternatives.

























































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Still researching:

- Recommended blue paint that most closely matches OEM

- Alternate belts (Some use of cheaper Honda belts on this YS 828)

- Aftermarket fuel line replacement.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Welcome to the site, it looks in great shape based on your estimate of the year?
Edit, does it all work? Mainly the tracks?


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Everything works... I saw him use it last year and then they left for year and apparently never took gas out of it. He is selling cabin so just wanted to sell it quick as he no longer had a need for it as well. I figured for $200 I could make that back parting it out in worst case scenario. It seems worth throwing some money into considering shape and price I got it for.

Tracks are in excellent shape too.

I am gonna change out all the fluid. Belts looked fine but gonna pick up some spares. Probably tear into the carb on Memorial Day weekend. Might pick up a HF ultrasonic cleaner. I see that mentioned by a few. 

Welcome any advice or criticism for that matter....anyone can give me.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Looks Like A 96 Model Year FROM The Numbers.*


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Good potential
I expect frequent updates..

If flipping wait until first snowstorm...


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I'm gonna do everything I can to make this a working unit for myself.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

minty!


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Your machine has a vacuum operated fuel pump located under the carb. As they age they flow less. Try applying minimal air pressure inside the tank for 10 seconds or so to dribble some fuel past the pump and into the carb. If it then starts and runs 10 seconds, you will know where the trouble lies. If you're lucky, the pump will now be primed and it will continue running.
If none of the above works then you'll have to clean the carb.
Are you using the electric start? Congrats - that's rare on a 624.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Thanks! I will check on that.. I just pulled line off and noticed there was fuel there. I didn't try a test to see if it would flow. It was just a cursory inspection yesterday.

I saw that vacuum pump when I had the cover off.

Fingers crossed there is a rebuild kit available if the fuel pump diaphragm is torn. I've rebuilt them before on snowmobiles.

I was using the electric start to test.

Do you think I am close with this being a '89?

What year did they stop selling these in the US? I've seen a whole range from others from 90-94.

Greatly appreciate the feedback. I'm gonna be working on this next weekend and will report back on findings.










Saw this on Yamaha Japanese site

https://global.yamaha-motor.com/jp/..._news_eng/pdf/index/229_YamahaNews_E_1986.pdf



















ヤマハ除雪機のあゆみ - 除雪機 | ヤマハ発動機株式会社


“青い除雪機”ヤマハスノーメイトの歴史をご紹介します。




www.yamaha-motor.co.jp


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

Cabincat - I had a chance to renovate one of these early this spring. It is a match for your model YS-624T (no E, which must designate your electric start). I had kind of figured out it probably was an 1989 but the serial number is only 100105 which is 800114 models before yours, could it possibly be an earlier year. It has rubber engine mounts, plastic tank, and the chute angle control is also backwards (push forward to raise the angle and pull back to lower the angle). Do you or anyone else have a way of getting a closer year of manufacture?
I ended up using Rustoleum 2716 Gloss Patriotic Blue for paint. It is a pretty good match in shop lights or shade but is visible in sunlight. It is close enough if you are painting a complete section like inside or outside the auger box or painting the complete chute, but is still not an exact match for fogging in just a part of anywhere. It also may depend on how faded or not your paint is. After fogging in areas I went back with rubbing compound on everything and got rid of overspray and brightened up the original paint, that helped.
Some parts are available on line, I had to do a valve adjustment and the owner was able to get a new head gasket, plastic belt cover. rubber gas tank mounts and a few other small parts that were needed.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I'm still trying to search out confirmation on model year. 

Greatly appreciate the paint tip. I will check that out. 

I will need to check valves myself. I noticed in owner's manual it states to check each season. Do these go out of adjustment often enough I should plan on ensuring I do that every year?

or is there is a recommended hour to check? I'm gonna throw an hour/tach meter on it for easier maintenance tracking.


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

This was a very used machine, it may have been checked by someone over the years but I suspect from the head removal that no one has ever had it apart from new. So it's no surprise that valve clearance was low. (I had to remove .004 off the intake, it was hard to restart when hot) 
Everyone does maintenance different to whatever suits them. I don't particularly check valve clearance on small engines unless they have a 100 to 200 hours on them- that could be a year of use or 5 years. I would check and adjust if necessary while you are working on it now and then not worry for a while, unless something shows up in the running.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I'll post a video of fuel flow directly out of fuel pump while running a short electric start this next weekend. I may need some feedback if it seems weak or not. 

I also picked up an HF ultrasonic cleaner so will likely give the carb a cleaning that route after disassembly. 

I was thinking of using carb cleaner with the carburetor inside of bag and then immersed in the cleaner. I've seen some do it that way. 

I also have some of this recommended Simply Green Pro HD (purple)... it is supposedly used on aircraft aluminum as well and won't discolor. 

Simple Green Household Cleaning Products Line


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

If your fuel pump is putting out a full 1/4" line of fuel it should be fine. When the gas tank is full it's basically a gravity flow system anyway, only when the tank is low is it actually pumping fuel up a few inches. And a gravity flow system usually has less than a .3 lbs (that's a point 3, about a third or less of one pound of pressure, of course that is defendant on the volume and height of the tank) any more and the carb. float could not seal it off. So basically any flow from the pump should be sufficient. The flow, even at idle will be considerably more that at electric start RPM. 
Re: the carb cleaner-- Cleaners with harsh vibration do sometime cause parts to rub against each other, so the bag idea is probably good.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Great feedback!!!! Thanks!

I'm going to throw some synthetic 10W-30 in it. It does look like oil is long overdue for a change.

On the auger gear oil... I see FSM says #90

Do you think some synthetic 80W-90 will be fine? 

I have quite a bit extra from service on other vehicles.


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## Claradonal (8 mo ago)

.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Cabincat said:


> I'm going to throw some synthetic 10W-30 in it.


I'd recommend 5W30 for any snowblower. 10W30 is for lawn mowers (warmer weather).


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I worked on it this morning. Obviously some ethanol fuel was left in this carb for long periods. I gave it an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner. I got it to run though.

Nothing clogged as far as I could see after ultrasonic cleaning but could probably use some more work. I've order all new seals, gaskets as well as all jets. 

RPM at high with no load is at factory spec on high ~4k according to FSM and my tachometer.

Looking for some feedback

- It dies out when manual throttle is backed off to minimum

- There are some small misses at times that can be smoothed out with some choke application

- In FSM pilot says 1.5 turns off full screw in

Is the miss a lean condition?

Greatly appreciate feedback

Auger and drive work perfectly

I'm gonna change fluids in next day or so.


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

Check your idle stop screw (not the jet) it's the screw on top that holds the throttle open just enough to idle, and sets the idle to correct RPM. On just about any carbureted small engine the FSN setting is a starting point, so you can open or close an adjustable idle jet +/- 1/8 of a turn for best throttle response --( so it goes to wide open throttle smoothly and the throttle can be quickly returned to idle with misfire or killing the engine ). Ensure the engine is warmed up to operating temperature before making carb. adjustments. If you find your idle RPM has increased after final carb adjustments just back down the RPM with the idle stop screw.


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## English_Cat (Sep 1, 2020)

Check your inbox, I'm sending you the manuals and stuff for these beasts.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I'm gonna wait for the new carb parts to further work with that area. Probably won't get back to that for a couple weeks.

I noticed the ground plug on the electric start receptacle was kinda wobbly. I took apart and noticed that the ground wire terminal had disconnected. Re-secured and tightened it down. No more wobble.


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Half of the yamaha blower ground pins I look at are broken. I put a 12" patch cord into my socket so the connection forces act on the cord end instead of the socket. It's easier to connect the patch cord to all kinds of extension cords as well.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Changed the engine and auger oil this morning. It was long overdue. Also cleaned up and every so lightly lubricated the transmission shaft.

I didn't take measurement on friction disc but appeared to still be in good shape. No cracks in belts. I need to check tension on belts as well as the tracks.

I assume to lubricate the auger shafts you have to remove the sides of the auger housing. That seems to be what I am seeing in FSM. Not sensing anything seized with the play. 

Lubricated most other things mentioned in FSM.

I'm gonna change out all of the old fuel lines and other vacuum related hoses as well. I need to take a measurement on the size of it. I'm not good at eying things for size while in the store.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I ordered some parts from IMPEX

- Both belts
- Auger Cable
- Fuel Pump
- Carburetor

I'm assuming the carb is for the metal tank model without fuel pump as it it 180 degrees off from stock one pointing up instead of down.

I see some fuel lines online that are pre-form with various angles.

I might put some extra protection on like some wire loom to prevent any kind of abrasion.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I really had no reason to think fuel pump was bad so had ordered one from Impex.

I was going to put the new one on with new carb and keep the old one as spare.

I notice this new fuel pump didn't have the the threaded screws to hold it to the air intake enclosure. No big deal... found a couple bolts and nuts that would do the job.

Got it back together and fire up. Ran great but quickly noticed that fuel was coming out of the vent on the carb. 

I thought.. float valve jet stuck or debris... needle looked fine and no debris. After a bunch of experimentation I put the old fuel pump on.

No leaks at all. This things just purrs... full range RPM and can easily run at idle.

What are your thoughts on fuel pump? 

If it was flowing more fuel shouldn't the float valve keep bowl from overfilling?

Is there some fuel pressure difference this pump could have created?

Thanks!


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

Yes, most likely too much fuel pressure and the float needle cannot seal it off. As stated before the fuel pressure should only be 1/3 of one pound of pressure, that is really not a lot. Since you said it did not have the exact mounting bolt setup I would bet it is not a genuine Yamaha pump but a generic or "fits all" type.
Glad to hear you have everything working to your satisfaction. They are really a well built, heavy duty machine.




















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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Any practical way to regulate fuel pressure other than just finding fuel pump that works? 

Would a couple inline fuel filters create any resistance?

This is the one I got from IMPEX


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)




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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

That control cable for the chute was a direct match


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Here are pics of the belts I received


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)




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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

CONTROL CABLE for YAMAHA (1994, 00NJ) — IMPEX JAPAN







en.impex-jp.com


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

New or clean filters would not do anything to reduce fuel pressure. Basically the pump pressure is created by the diameter of the diaphragm or piston (whatever type is used) and the stroke (movement of the diaphragm or piston). Speed of the stroke is usually just used to regulate volume. Adding an adjustable pressure regulator would probably add up to as much or more in cost and time than an original pump. I would just stick with the original, or even a rebuild kit if eventually needed, it would have the correct parts, diaphragm, springs, valves, etc,


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I am going to pull the rakes off and lubricate the shafts but are these auger bearings serviceable at all with grease or just use until they fail? 

In another thread here it was suggested most are not serviceable

Thanks


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

There may be a snowblower somewhere in history that was built with greaseable bearings, but all modern ones use pre-greased sealed ball bearings. The two auger bearings and the fan bearing are all the same number bearing. 6203 RS
Since you are going to remove the augers to clean and grease the shafts, just take a good look at the bearings (fan bearing also) while you have them off, you should be able to tell if they are bad or need replacing. They are inexpensive enough that it is cheap insurance just to replace them if they are suspect. Brand name bearings may be $5 to $7 each, and the amount of time it will take to install them will be almost nothing, because you will have the augers already off.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

When I have some time I am going to do a pressure test on the needle valve (picking up a tester).

I might need to do one of those various methods with powered Q-Tips and various brass polishers on the needle seat area on this new carb


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I have what I need to do pressure test this week on needle valve

I'm distracted by my Sunday delivery of my '22 Yamaha Grizzly EPS XT-R

... dealer already told me a "substantial price increases on '23 models" so don't feel like I am that taken with '22 MSRP considering I have been waiting nearly 6 months. Ran the numbers and adjusted for inflation about what I paid for my 2004 Polaris 700 EFI

Frankly I know this is near the end of the run for this model and glad it has the old reliable 686cc motor


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

For history, we got ours in 1998 and they sold them for a good 5-10 years past that I believe. Ours looks almost identical on the controls. The fuel is just off on there is no vacuum involved. The only machine that I found that was better is the new Honda HS724. 

I only bought the Honda for the electric start and the trigger steering. It does throw snow a bit further but process wise the Yamaha matches it. The Yamaha engine lugs down a lot better than the Honda. The Yamaha engine was unique to the snow blowers and designed for the torque aspect of the varying snow loads run through it. 

Someone in a cycle group questioned the tonage it would throw so I did some tests via time, width and actual snow weight (to avoid a wet or dry issue). I got up to 42 tons an hour (assume you could blow a straight path steady so its relative but it sure more than met the spec (35 tons?)

We have 150 ft of driveway and another 150 ft of paths. For 5 or 10 years I had to shovel snow off the roof due to ice issues (I fixed that) so it saw duty in that compacted snow for the house (1600 sq ft of roof at a guess). Its still going strong. 

I do run 10W-40 Synthetic in it. Even at -20 its a 3 pull start (no electric start which I could have had and regret with the blown disk in the back (repaired but have to be careful). 

There is a misunderstanding of oil weight (10, the W stands for Winter) in how viscous it gets. 10 is the equivalent, but it does not get thicker as it gets colder. 0 and 5 weight oil is for modern engines as a fuel saving and few factory cars come with synthetic.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

RC20 said:


> There is a misunderstanding of oil weight (10, the W stands for Winter) in how viscous it gets. 10 is the equivalent, but it does not get thicker as it gets colder. 0 and 5 weight oil is for modern engines as a fuel saving and few factory cars come with synthetic.


Honda DOES recommend 5W30 for snow blowers and 10W30 only for summer engine applications...


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

A mineral oil 5W-30 will start at much colder temps than a 10W-40 (as mentioned, the W stands for Winter; ie winter start up, lower is better). However, if using synthetics, a name brand 10W will flow at ~ -30F and a 5W will flow at ~-40F. 5W-30 will provide better fuel economy than a 10W-40. 

Using a mineral oil 5W-30, synthetic 5W-30 or synthetic 10W-40 will all work, with synthetic 5W-30 most optimal. You could even use a 0W-40 synthetic without issue (and it arguably provides the best all-around "protection"). That 2nd number "30" is most critical. That is the thickness of the oil film. If an OEM says to use a "30" weight, that is saying the engine tolerances cannot tolerate a film thinner than 30 (under a microscope you would see a jagged metal surface on all the touching metal parts that this film has to be thicker than). So you NEVER want to use a 5W-20 in an engine that recommends 5W-30. That would definitely cause pre-mature wear. Using a 10W-40 will not create a wear risk, only the risk of it not starting in cold weather if it is a mineral 10W-40 (or extreme cold of >~-30F).

Once again, 5W vs. 10W matters when buying lower cost mineral oil, but if using a name brand synthetic, neither should give you cold weather start up issues unless in extreme cold climate (-40c/-40F), but a 5W generally would start slightly easier.

Mobil 1 website:
_This technologically advanced motor oil formulation provides 10X** better internal engine heat protection than industry standards* (up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit)*, as well as exceptional low-temperature protection (to -30 degrees Fahrenheit)—bringing quick cold-weather starting and ultra-fast protection to your engine.
Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage_


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## English_Cat (Sep 1, 2020)

Since we're on the topic of oil, synthetic oils are at best, misleading and there's an entire system of ranking oil type. All synthetic oils are no real different than mineral oil like the name would imply, but instead it is the same mineral oil, only refined further. Through refining you get better oil, that is rated by API. If you Google API you'll find a neat chart with the oil ranking. Currently sn+ is the best rated oil.

Does the ranking matter so much on a snowblower? I don't know, probably not. But now you know some facts.


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

English_Cat said:


> Since we're on the topic of oil, synthetic oils are at best, misleading and there's an entire system of ranking oil type. All synthetic oils are no real different than mineral oil like the name would imply, but instead it is the same mineral oil, only refined further. Through refining you get better oil, that is rated by API. If you Google API you'll find a neat chart with the oil ranking. Currently sn+ is the best rated oil.
> 
> Does the ranking matter so much on a snowblower? I don't know, probably not. But now you know some facts.


Unfortunately, not correct ^^^^^. When crude is "refined", one is separating molecules... light molecules create the gases, heavy molecules create the asphalts, and the molecules in between creates petrol/gasoline, diesel and lubes base stocks. Also, a refining process is to "crack" molecules and make smaller ones from bigger ones, but the smaller ones already exist in the crude, now there are just more, because there are times those smaller molecules are worth more. For synthetic oils, they take ethylene gas and run it through (chemical) catalysts to create longer chain molecules that are just not found in crude oil, like polyalphaolifins. This literally creates (synthesizes) new molecules that did not exist in crude. It is "synthetic" because molecules are synthesized. Analogy: assume molecules were stones, a bucket of mineral oil would be all shapes and sizes and throw it on the floor and it just splats. Synthetic oil are all small round stones, like marbles... throw on the floor and they roll far and wide. Semi-synthetic is a mix of both, but usually heavily weighted towards mineral in ratio (like 90/10) and performance is much closer to mineral. The API sn+ spec is a specification auto manufacturers agree to be the minimum spec oils to use in their newest cars. It has nothing to do with synthetic or mineral, other than to achieve the required performance, so some synthetic base stock is required in the latest spec, thus sn+, for practical purposes, is semi-synthetic, although that designation is not technically required in the spec. Synthetics are very different from mineral oils and are made differently.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

The above would be correct and in fact I have had Mobile recommended with syntheitic in my Ural Cycle engine (180 deg opposed twin aka a BMW aircooled engine of yesteryear) their 0 weight oil. 

And in fact I have been running Mobile 10W-40 4T oil in the Yamaha for some years. If you want to find out how oil does, just try to pull start at -10F. The 10W-40 synthetic is a heck of a lot better than any 5W-X conventional oil.

A direct weight oil comparison simply does not apply with synthetics. I have seen it flow fine at -20 when a 5W conventional oil is like molasses. Put a quart of conveion 5W oil in the freezer (chest or upright not the one in your fridge) and see how well it pours. 

And while I doubt its an issue, the reality is something like Mobile 4T has a better additive package for a lifters and it protects as well as any 40 weight oil (not flow wise, protection wise) .


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

Chevron Delo 400 diesel oil in fact is a highly refined conventional oil that has some of the high heat and stress properties of syntactic, but it does not pour at low temps like a synthetic (or flow more accurately) 

In fact it has been popular in cycle engines but not if you live in the far North and start your cycle in the winter. 

.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

After winter I need to tear into the recoil starter and see if something needs to be lubricated or other issue. It can be started with it but rope very slowly retracts after a few minutes. I normally use the electric start and if I need to post start it after that…usually starts in one pull so not a biggie at the moment.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Took a risk and ordered from overseas parts dealer who says this should work as alternative to the 7KF… I just want as a backup in case replacement is needed in future. Will post back if it worked out or not.

7GA-46345-00-00 is claimed friction disk alternative to 7KF-46345-00-00 for YS624 friction disk.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Swapped belts this morning. Extremely easy to do. It only marginally improved the short throwing distance (15-20 feet)… started to look closer at impeller and I have like at least half inch clearance and looks like auger blades are bent some.. some more than others. Gonna try see what I can bend but going to install Clarence impeller kit I bought a decade ago or more and never installed on other blower. I did use some fluid film too but I seem to have some residual hardware issues I need to resolve first.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

My Clarence kit FTW… was able to install it by just removing chute.. this thing will toss the wettest sloppiest stuff a good distance now.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)




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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Neat old unit






1978 YT-665 - Communication Plaza | Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd.


Collection items




global.yamaha-motor.com





YT-665










Released in 1978, this was Yamaha Motor's first snow thrower. This engine-driven caterpillar-tracked machine was operated manually by the operator walking behind it. The rotating auger collects snow from the front and blows it out a few meters away through a chimney shaped thrower. It had an operating capacity of 35 tons per hour, and was characterized by its safety features, ease of use and maintenance-free structure. Because of the distinctive color of the model, Yamaha snow throwers came to be known as the "Blue Snow Throwers." On display is the 1979 model.


Overall length × width × height: 1,680mm × 680mm × 1,060mm
Weight: 182kg
Engine type: Air-cooled, 4-stroke, SV, 2-valve, single-cylinder, 256cm³
Maximum power output: 4.4kW (6.0PS) / 3,600r/min
Price : ¥338,000


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I've never seen one of that vintage, do you know what year Yamaha started selling machines in North America?


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I’m not sure in US.. here is one in Canada from ‘84 - YS524









Yamaha: old vs new models


I do not know a lot on Yamaha snowblower, so here is my question: Are the old models (‘90 828 / 624) better than today’s Yamaha (recent 1028)? I know John Deere garden tractor from the ‘90 (300/400 serie) are better than what they offer today. Is it true with Yamaha snowblower? I know this is...




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

Recoil starter is sure easy to work on. It wasn’t pulling rope in all the way. Just needed a little lubrication and an extra wind on the spring. A little more life out of it anyway.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

The company I worked for got one about 1985/86 so and they were well established then. It was the Snow thrower of choice for Valdez AK (tanker terminal, 20 feet of snow a year) 

Ironically the crew failed to put the slider door down in the box van and it jumped out onto the street. By the time they swung around the block it was GONE! The boss was pissed (and rightfully so) - you have to laugh at a pickup coming along and at least two very herkky people in it to get it up off the street and away that fast. 

When I went looking for one the Yamaha and Honda were my top choices. I needed a 2 footer though and Honda 524 was under-powered and awkward (mine is 98 or 99 and has the chute control up on the panel). 










I think I got ours in January and thought I could get a deal, they just looked at me and laughed and said the lineup of 10 or so would be gone by spring. Something around $2000 but it was worth every penny of that over the years. 

The Honda is maybe 30% better overall but you can't beat that engine on the Yamaha, its still a lugging beast. Honda revs high but bogs down though the Hydrostaitc make it easy to adjust travel for the conditions. 

Whoever did the Postcard obviously used the Yamaha as a model! My wife found it and framed it for me.


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## Cabincat (8 mo ago)

I find this tracked 624 pretty easy to throw around and turn. I had concerns it wouldn’t be as maneuverable as my other wheeled one without easy steer. It’s lighter too and can be used a lot more with just one hand without having to man handled it.

Also impressed how the engine fires up and stabilizes in the coldest of weather without really any elevated throttle. Nice running motor.

Got a new impeller and friction disc on order from Japan. Just for spare parts


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