# recomended oil



## bigbelly

I just bought a used 28" troybuilt (2840?) to have as a backup. I believe it's about 5 yrs old - previous owner used it maybe twice. The situation: I haven't physically seen it yet - it may not come with the engine owners manual - there is no phone or internet service where is and where it will be. 

Can some one tell me the factory recommended oil?


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## micah68kj

It may actually be somewhere on an engine sticker..


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## bigbelly

Thanks Joe. I'll be finding out for sure tonight. 
Tom B.


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## Shryp

I think pretty much every modern snow blower recommends 5w30. Get it from the auto parts store as it will be the same as snow blower oil from the lawn care place and half the price.


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## detdrbuzzard

i don't know what brand everyone else is using but right now i'm using lucas 5w30 synthetic


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## GustoGuy

I have used Amsoil synthetic oils in all my engines since the late 1980's. I have a 1996 Polaris xlt that broke a crank bearing on while riding on the trail about 9 miles out. I knew something was wrong so I drove it back to my cabin and loaded on the trailer. At the time the sled had about 7200 miles on it and I delivered it to a Place in town that repairs engines. I usually do carburetor work and Crankshafts require special equipment to fix. Well 2 days later the mechanic calls saying that its just a broken outer mag side crank bearing and we could not believe this so we checked it twice with the calipers and you will only need new piston rings and a ball hone on the cylinders since they still tested with in specs. He asked me what oil I use and I told him Amsoil Interceptor. He said that he has never seen a snowmobile engine with this many miles that did not need to be be bore out and have new rings and pistons. I saved over $300 dollars in parts because Of Amsoil.


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## AMSOIL

If it is a Pre-Mix or Injected the Interceptor(AIT) is the better choice. Otherwise the 5W-30(ASL) is my first recommendation as well.


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## bigbelly

Well boys, sorry I'm so slow on the draw. But I've been jumping around here like a chimpanzee on a barb wire fence, just trying to catch up. All of the above is true, it's 5-30w and stated on the fuel tank. 

Thanks to everyone for helping me out, Tom B


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## db9938

Do yourself a favor. Use a paint pen/sharpie marker, and in some inconspicuous location, right the amount of oil it takes. 

I use one of those graduated twist valve funnels to refill, and it makes it real nice to know the right amount.


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## bigbelly

db9938 said:


> Do yourself a favor. Use a paint pen/sharpie marker, and in some inconspicuous location, right the amount of oil it takes.
> 
> I use one of those graduated twist valve funnels to refill, and it makes it real nice to know the right amount.


Sounds like a good idea. But a neighbor showed up this evening and wants to buy it for the price I paid. If the money shows, it's gone. It wasn't what I was looking for from the git-go, but I had a friend buy it while we were on the phone and she did the best she could. I'm not saying anything bad about it, I just didn't like it, 

Thanks all for input


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## db9938

Hey, no problem and good luck.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Just curious, what is it you're looking for ?? Was the 28" too big or too small ??


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## bigbelly

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Just curious, what is it you're looking for ?? Was the 28" too big or too small ??


Here's the deal; It wasn't a 28/40, but instead, a 26/20. The size was perfect. I don't know how old it is but, it has never cleared any snow. It's pristine. Now the downside for me; the chute isn't rigid or durable enough for the icy snow I throw. All of the operating cables look to require frequent adjustments. Throttle control, engine kill mechanism, and chute tilt are too far away. And lastly, I don't trust the engine. 

At this point, total cash outlay is $312. If it doesn't sell, I'll use it. Maybe you can help me out with throttle question. The engine seems to run full rpm, no matter what throttle position, except when it is moved to far right to kill engine. Now, the engine hasn't been under load (pushing snow). Question; is this high rpm normal in all throttle positions?


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## Kiss4aFrog

You should have variable control and not just idle and full. There is something out of adjustment that is pulling the throttle full open too soon or maybe the throttle plate itself is stuck and isn't returning, missing a spring ??

You should pull the carb cover and see if at idle setting the throttle is stuck open. Also go to troybilt's web site or sears parts and look at a parts diagram and see if you're missing a spring.
With the throttle at idle you should be able to reach in there with your finger and blip the throttle open and have it snap back.
From your description I'm guessing it's either stuck/jammed or missing a return spring. 

Good price and even if you use it this year and sell it you should be able to recover that and get what you want 

And I understand about the engine. Would be much happier if it was a tec or briggs. Wish I could justify pulling the 365-SUB I have and going Honda !!! After all what is a 365-SUB anyway and why is it at just over 5yrs old some parts are already NLA ?? But with good oil and regular changes it should hold up fine. Yours has a 4.5 out of 5 consumer rating so they must be doing something right. I already have a surging problem at all speeds and I've already cleaned it. Running with part choke to get it smooth but bought a mini drill set to open up the jets to get proper mixture since the new junk isn't adjustable anymore. The surging problem is the only thing I have seen a lot of complaints on with my model. But the surging is a result of EPA restrictions where you barely have enough fuel burning and poor gas that if not treated will cause surging by gumming up the jets too.


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## Shryp

It could be someone took the idle speed (not mixture adjusting) screw and screwed it all the way in.


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## bigbelly

Auhh-auhh-auhh, ya I knew that. Shyrp, sometimes ya gotta hit me on the head so the brain functions. Thanks, will check it.


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