# Heated grips on 2016 models



## boathik

What is the best way to add heated grips to the new machines? Is there any chance Honda will release them as an accessory? 

BTW, this new 1332 ATD was just delivered so there is hope!


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## mishkaya

Congratulations on your new machine! While I don't have an answer to your question, I have a question of my own for you:
Did you add the skid shoes on the bucket, or did the snowblower come that way? Also, is there any chance you could measure the bolt spacing for me? I would like to make sure I have the right skids...


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## Cardo111

Congrats on the sweet new machine, you should post a YouTube review on that bad boy, kinda surprised it did not come with heated grips from the factory.

Best of luck with it.


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## [email protected]

Honda does not offer factory or optional heated grips for any snow blowers sold in the USA. :redface:

It is possible some aftermarket grips might work okay on electric start 2-stage models, as they have on-board 12V battery and larger charge coil. 

Pull-start only models have a small lamp coil to run the LED work lamp, so probably not enough to drive some heated grips.


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## boathik

mishkaya said:


> Congratulations on your new machine! While I don't have an answer to your question, I have a question of my own for you:
> Did you add the skid shoes on the bucket, or did the snowblower come that way? Also, is there any chance you could measure the bolt spacing for me? I would like to make sure I have the right skids...


Sorry, I am unable to measure the hole spacing for a few weeks but i can tell you i added the Honda Commercial skid shoes and the factory holes lined up, no drilling required. I also left the rear skids in place.


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## boathik

Should the grips be wired to the battery or from the charging feed? It would be great if the heaters only ran with the engine running... I don't have a wire diagram yet.


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## Cardo111

[email protected] said:


> Honda does not offer factory or optional heated grips for any snow blowers sold in the USA. :redface:
> 
> It is possible some aftermarket grips might work okay on electric start 2-stage models, as they have on-board 12V battery and larger charge coil.
> 
> Pull-start only models have a small lamp coil to run the LED work lamp, so probably not enough to drive some heated grips.


Sorry to put you on the spot, but is there any reason why Honda does not include hand warmers (and provide the proper coil necessary as you outlined) even as an optional accessory on their U.S. spec high-end 2 stage snowblowers?


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## Kiss4aFrog

If it has a 12 volt starter and a key start like a car the ignition switch should have a terminal you can connect to that would be off with the engine off and powered with the engine on.

I'm not familiar with the Honda's but that's what I'd do and I'd still put an on/off switch in line so I can turn them off on warmer days or when running the carb dry or whatever. Not necessary but might be convenient.


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## [email protected]

mishkaya said:


> is there any chance you could measure the bolt spacing for me? I would like to make sure I have the right skids...



I do believe the current commercial skids will bolt-up to either a late-model Honda HS or new HSS model...the hole spacing should be the same.


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## [email protected]

Cardo111 said:


> Sorry to put you on the spot, but is there any reason why Honda does not include hand warmers (and provide the proper coil necessary as you outlined) even as an optional accessory on their U.S. spec high-end 2 stage snowblowers?


I'm sure it is a cost issue, as the product planning team had to draw a line in the snow somewhere. To get the final product at the target cost and price point, some things on the wish list will not make the final cut. 

So why not as an accessory? It gets more complicated, as electric start models would plug-n-play but pull-start models would require a costly coil install (flywheel removal required) 

I'd personally vote to include them as standard equipment on e. start models. Not much of a cost up, and customers understand good-better-best when shopping.


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## mishkaya

[email protected] said:


> I do believe the current commercial skids will bolt-up to either a late-model Honda HS or new HSS model...the hole spacing should be the same.


Thank you very much for your response.


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## tinter

My older HS928 TCD has the on board battery system, I wired a relay directly to the battery and a trigger off the key start. Works perfectly. I ordered the nice red grips from eBay, it's very important to have them colour match the machine, it makes it faster!


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## Kiss4aFrog

It's just for the money you spend on anything (Honda, Ariens, Toro ...) it would be nice to have more power. Not sure what the passed on cost would be but I'm really disappointed with my 1332 Toro that doesn't have the guts to run hand warmers and I can't even get the flywheel used for under $80 and then more $$ for the bigger stator.


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## Normex

Kiss4aFrog said:


> It's just for the money you spend on anything (Honda, Ariens, Toro ...) it would be nice to have more power. Not sure what the passed on cost would be but I'm really disappointed with my 1332 Toro that doesn't have the guts to run hand warmers and I can't even get the flywheel used for under $80 and then more $$ for the bigger stator.


Just wondering if you left your lighting to a 12 volt battery and keep your stator for the hand warmers? I'm saying this not knowing your total stator output.This is what I have on my set up. JMO


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## malba2366

@boathik did those skids fit onto your blower with standard bolts without any spacers? I want to use a composite skid and am trying to figure out if it will fit.


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## boathik

malba2366 said:


> @boathik did those skids fit onto your blower with standard bolts without any spacers? I want to use a composite skid and am trying to figure out if it will fit.


I used the spacers that came with the commercial skids between the skids and the auger housing, just as the instructions indicated.


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## bombidude

I put heated grips on my hs928 I bought new last year. It isn't hard but will cost you a bit.


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## YSHSfan

bombidude said:


> I put heated grips on my hs928 I bought new last year. It isn't hard but will cost you a bit.


Did you have a light and heated grips?. If so, what was involved in the installation/upgrade process?


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## bombidude

Yes I had a factory light. I ordered a lightning coil from hs828 because my factory one was a one coil one isn't just strong enough for the light and grips. The engine block is drilled for two coil system so I ordered the coils and factory screws. I pulled the flywheel and added in the coils and put it all back together.. Got rid of the factory light and installed a LED light and an Ariens heated hand grip kit. Everything was plug and play and looks factory.. Everythings works great and hand grips get hot..


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## Gator9329

How hard was it to pull the flywheel? Kind of hesitant to pull a brand new motor apart.
What I'm saying is, can I do this with a six pack and you tubing haha.
Thanks for the info on this.

Post thought, 
can I just mount a motorcycle battery on the machine and run the grips off of that and recharge it as needed?


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## YSHSfan

Gator9329 said:


> can I just mount a motorcycle battery on the machine and run the grips off of that and recharge it as needed?


Yes, you absolutely can, just keep the battery fully charged before each use.


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## Loco-diablo

You would think that for the price they charge for the new Honda blowers, heated grips would be standard. It is after all, the Cadillac of blowers from what I've read and have been told!


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## Normex

hsblowersfan said:


> Yes, you absolutely can, just keep the battery fully charged before each use.


 I have not experienced plugging the warmers to a battery as I did the reverse using the stator for the warmers and battery for the Led lights
as this way one doesn't need to install a bridge rectifier and caps since the battery is clean voltage and the stator with either AC or DC the warmers don't mind each. Good Luck


http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...rading-your-snowblower-lights-led-lights.html


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## pdd

Any particular handwarmers u guys recommend?. I'd like to install heated grips and the commercial skids on my hss928atd when I receive it. Also can the double-articulated deflector from the hss1332 be retro fitted to the hss928? I'd like to install that on the 928 if possible


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## [email protected]

pdd said:


> ...Can the double-articulated deflector from the hss1332 be retro fitted to the hss928?


Probably:


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## YSHSfan

It will fit, but you will need parts # 1, 2, 7, 5, and possibly a few misc small pieces from the previous diagram (chute for an ATD model has the extra bracket welded on the back-top part, therefore the different part number compared to the AT model). The chute base collar/gear is the same for all HSS blowers.

I myself am putting a HSS1332ATD chute together to use it on my HS1128TAS project :icon-hgtg: (I'm just waiting for one more hinge pin).

HSS1332AT









HS1332ATD


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## Kiss4aFrog

pdd said:


> Any particular handwarmers u guys recommend?. I'd like to install heated grips and the commercial skids on my hss928atd when I receive it. Also can the double-articulated deflector from the hss1332 be retro fitted to the hss928? I'd like to install that on the 928 if possible



I wouldn't recommend the really cheap ones from china. If it's for your main machine I'd see if the Toro, Ariens, ... factory ones will fit your handlebars and go with them. The quality is well worth the money.

I think I bought three cheap sets and they're still sitting in a drawer in the garage because I was so dissatisfied with the quality of the heating pads, wiring, location of an on/off switch. I did get what I paid for, I didn't pay much. :icon_whistling:

This is like mine except mine came with cheaper (thinner) wire and just an on/off toggle switch that looks like it'd rust and seize first time moisture gets close to it.


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## pdd

Thanks for all the replies


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## Gator9329

What't the advantage of adding the double-articulated deflector ?


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## YSHSfan

Gator9329 said:


> What't the advantage of adding the double-articulated deflector ?


IMHO, slightly longer throwing distance but alot better control of where you place the snow.

Look at this video.....
This is IMHO the advantage of having a 2 part chute deflector to precisely place the snow where you want it.

Specifically look at 27second to 36second mark and 1min 07sec to 1min 12sec mark.


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## Gator9329

Jezzz I haven't even broke in the motor and I'm already looking to mod this thing. 
I will be watching to see if anyone gets the double shoot on the 928


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## JnC

Not sure if its pertinent but I am going through something similar with my HS1132 rebuild. The OE coil is for 15W halogen bulb, which will be replaced with the OE HS928 coil rated at 3A/50W at 12V, shown here










In my HS924 build I ended up using two 20W cree leds, for this build I wanted heated grips as well along with some LED lights. 

Current plan is to use two of these 10W single cree lamps on either side of the control cover. 










I did some research and found out that most of the hand grips are made by the same company, the kits are just numbered differently for different manufacturers such as MTD, Cub Cadet, Ariens etc. The technology is the same the appearance and fit might be a bit different. 

I actually just wanted to know the wattage on the grips and the only piece of info i found was 30~40W from this website

Snow Thrower Grips

this also got confirmed by the following thread where OP had used 928 coil to power a 27W led and Ariens heated grips and he had everything work just fine. 

So in my case the LEDs will take 20W and leave around 30W for the grips, which works out perfect plus the LEDs wont be on ALL the time. 

The grips dont care if they get AC or DC wattage hence no need for a rectifier. The set that I bought are from Cub Cadet, I'll make a custom harness to be used with the Honda to power the grips along with the LEDs. The LEDs will have a dedicated box to contain the rectifier and the capacitors, here is a picture of box that I set up for the HS924. 










For anyone who wants to wire the grips individually do take into account that the grips need to be wired in series per manufacturer recommendation i.e. positive from the stator to positive switch, negative from switch to positive on grip 1, negative from grip 1 to positive on grip 2, negative from grip two to chassis. Wiring schematic from the Cub Cadet kit 











*Edit (12/12/2015) : A few more key notes
1) Turns out the bottom two holes on the GX340 are not threaded but the OE screws are self tapping so they can be used to thread the said holes. 
2) The OE GX340 coil is slimmer than the bigger GX270 dual coils. 
3) GX270 uses M6X30 bolts to hold the dual coils in place, GX340 uses M6 X 35mm bolts to hold the single coil in place. The 35mm bolts will work to hold the new coils in place but they only catch may be 4mm of thread, which in my opinion wouldnt be safe. 

A safe bet would be to use 40mm long M6 bolts.*


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## YSHSfan

Great info JnC.


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## JnC

Spent most day yesterday setting up the control box for LEDs. 










Heated grips are on, still need to apply new decals on the handles and apply rubber compound to them. 

The OE connectors were replaced by water/splashproof connectors. 










weatherproof illuminated switches installed on the control cover.


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## jrom

JnC, it looks like you're using marine grade wire and connectors, right? Would you mind sharing where you buy your supplies? I have a West Marine within driving distance and would rather see things before I buy.

Nice work by the way.


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## JnC

jrom said:


> JnC, it looks like you're using marine grade wire and connectors, right? Would you mind sharing where you buy your supplies? I have a West Marine within driving distance and would rather see things before I buy.
> 
> Nice work by the way.


Dont mind at all. 

*Wire*

16 Gauge 5 ft Black GPT Wire 100 Copper Automotive Primary OFC Stranded AWG | eBay

16 Gauge 5 ft Red GPT Wire 100 Copper Automotive Primary OFC Stranded AWG | eBay

*Switches*

NTE 54 527W on None Off Lighted Round Hole Waterproof Rocker Switch New | eBay

*LEDs*

2X 10W CREE LED Work Light Flood Off Road Fog Lamp Motorcycle Bike Car Jeep Boat | eBay

*Rectifier*

1pcs High Current 50A 1000V Metal Case Full Bridge Rectifier KBPC5010 US Seller | eBay

*Inline weatherproof fuse holder*

14AWG Wire in Line Car Automotive Blade Fuse Holder Fuseholder 20A Waterproof | eBay

*Ceramic/fiberglass hobby box*

Bopla 02 081606 0 P316 Enclosure Indoor Outdoor Project Box Bopla 160x75x57 Mm | eBay

*2 pin connectors*

Set 2 Pin Way SEALED Waterproof Quick Splice Electrical Wire Connector Plug HID | eBay

Most of the above said stuff is great in quality but the pin connectors have got to be the best that I have ever used.


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## jrom

Much better prices than marine grade. Thanks again.


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## JnC

Coils are on, ended up using M6x40mm bolts with lock washers. When installing torq them to *8 ft/lb*.


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## jridge

JnC - Awesome writeup! Thanks for the parts links and pictures. Think I could do this to my HS1132. 
Couple of questions -
1. What steps/tools did you use to get to the coil(s)/remove the flywheel?
2. Any photos of the installed lights? Where were they mounted?
3. Capacitors were 2200microF, 50V? Where'd you purchase?
4. Where were the Capacitors and Rectifier installed in the schematic you posted?
5. Fuse size = 3A?
6. Were your heated grips the Cub Cadet p/n 753-05762A?
7. How's everything operating? Good light? Hand warmers working well?
8. Confirming 50W dual coils you installed were the Honda p/n 31510-ze2-p31?

Again, great writeup. This should be made into a sticky at the top of the Honda Forum section.


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## Kiss4aFrog

JnC said:


> Dont mind at all.













*What did you use to cut the round holes to mount the switches ??*

.


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## JnC

*20*



Kiss4aFrog said:


> *What did you use to cut the round holes to mount the switches ??*
> 
> .



I have a set of these, they work perfect, no need to fiddle with dremel etc. Just drill till you get the fit perfect. I think it takes roughly 10 or so seconds to get the perfect hole. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html


Jridge here are the answers to your questions. 

1) You dont need to remove the motor from the bed to do the swap/install. Just take off the recoil starter, flywheel cover and flywheel to access the coil. I used a 1/2" impact driver to remove the flywheel bolt and then used a flywheel removal tool to remove the flywheel. You can rent one of them from your local auto part store. 

2) Havent installed the 10W cree LEDs on the 1132 yet but here is a picture of how the 20W ones look like on a recent HS624 that I restored. 










3) Used to capacitors, here is where I got them from

4pcs 2200uF 2200MFD 50V Electrolytic Capacitor 105 Degrees USA Free Shipping | eBay

4) Here is a picture of similar LED control box that is being used on my HS924



















5) I am using 5A for the two 20W LED set up on my 924.
6)Not sure what the cub cadet part number is, they are all the same, I picked them up used as I wanted to tool around with a set to see fit and luckily they worked out well as the fit is perfect and they dont hinder the auger/drive engagement levers. 

7) This shown project is on hiatus for the time being, machine is restored, just not put back together yet as I am switching the GX340 to a GX390 and making it a HS1332 machine from a HS1132 lol. Everything will work just fine, I actually intend on adding retrofitted electric chute rotation as well. Even though I'll be pushing what the coils have to offer for wattage but I know that at any given time I wont be using all three components at the same time. Chute rotation will be occasional, when needed, hand warmers will be on all the time and LEDs only if I am working at night. 

I can tell you this that the dual 20W cree LEDS shown above are brighter than most automotive headlights that you see on the road. 

8) These are coils 

31510-ZE2-P31 HONDA COIL, LAMP (12V/50W) (Honda Code 3829272)


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## jridge

JnC-
Last question, then I'll go out and buy some parts - can you show where the rectifier and the two capacitors are placed in the electrical schematic you posted earlier?

Thanks again,


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## JnC

jridge said:


> JnC-
> Last question, then I'll go out and buy some parts - can you show where the rectifier and the two capacitors are placed in the electrical schematic you posted earlier?
> 
> Thanks again,




The grips run directly on AC current from the coils, so no need for rectifier and caps as they are needed only for the LEDs. 

Here is a rough drawing of the schematic I am using for the LEDs and the grips.


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## Vermont007

Does that fiberglass box stay cold enough to serve as the heat sink for your rectifier ?


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## Alpo27

For a guy, such as myself, who doesn't want to take apart his brand new HHS928ATD, can anyone tell me what coil I have, and what wattage led I can add? I have the battery start and good gloves so I don't need grip warmers but I love lots of light.
Since we haven't had any snow since I got it I may as well mod it.


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## Apple Guy

For 2 new coils (have manual pull start 2011 928), how much $$$ total for Areins grips, Honda coils, misc waterproof wiring and toggles??


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## Vermont007

Alpo27 said:


> ". . . I have the battery start and good gloves so I don't need grip warmers . . ."


That sounds right . . . . until you discover that, unlike shoveling or chopping wood, there's so little activity for your fingers, they will not receive the circulation that would normally keep them warm(er) in cold weather.

I'm glad I got the heated hand grips as an automatic option 8 years ago . . . . and I use Snowmobile *MITTENS* instead of Gloves to retain the heat that my hands receive from the Heated Grips.

Along that line, I'm going to start a new thread and outline the SnowBlowing Garb I've developed for dealing with -40°F that I employ, including:

Insulated Boots and Galoshes with great traction;
Blousing Garters;
SnowMobile Mittens;
Insulated Headgear, including Ear Covering;
Neck Scarf;
Windproof Jacket; and
UV Rated Motorcycle Goggles.

These Goggles were a recent addition to my wardrobe introduced primarily because the cold wind was causing blown shards of ice and snow to cut my watery eyes, or make me look away from the work at hand . . . . I now use another set for my lawnmowing activity.


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## Alpo27

Vermont, if I had to deal with -40 degrees, I would think about handwarmers too! In the Delaware Valley I rarely go below 10 above. FYI, did you know -40 is the same F or C!
Also, I only have experience so far with my HS520 which takes a fair amount of physical activity which helped keep me warm. Winter Storm Jonas broke that straw though, the Monday after I went out and purchased the 928, no snow for the rest of the winter now❄


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## skutflut

Gator9329 said:


> Post thought,
> can I just mount a motorcycle battery on the machine and run the grips off of that and recharge it as needed?


Might want to wait till *after* the install for the six pack. Hate to see you drop a flywheel on your foot.


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## Vermont007

Alpo27 said:


> ". . . FYI, did you know -40 is the same F or C! . . ."


Yes, and the thermometer manufacturers find that -40° to be a convenient stopping point because the two scales coincide at -40°; and besides, most Folks don't want to know about it; but Mother Nature doesn't stop declining just because the human gadgets can't go there .

I'm a Real Estate Broker, and though business slows during the Winter, we continue; and I once sold a place with a questionable heating system so I waited a few days to check in on the Buyers to see if they were still alive. The Wife answered in a jovial mode saying it was +70°F indoors and -67°F outdoors . . . . they had a special thermometer that displayed temps down -100°F (≈-73°C), and that has stuck in my mind ever since. It's not a selling point on this terrain.

The coldest I've witnessed here at my farm is -48°F (1/9/2004) when the power also went out. I only know that because there's a pin preventing the needle on the thermometer from going any further in the negative direction as it would probably break . . . . and NO, I don't make a habit of blowing snow when it's that frigid; but in an emergency, it get's the driveway opened.

110 Volt AC Electric Start is nice; but doesn't help when the power is out !


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## mikeinri

My kids wear snowboarding helmets when sledding (usually over a hat and jacket hood). No matter how cold, they're always sweating when finished.

Mike


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## guilateen02

Reviving an old one here. JNC how did you wire the harness to the coil. Did you split the single wire coming out the alternator. The MTD kit has a two pin plug for the alternator and only one wire coming out the Honda.


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## JnC

guilateen02 said:


> Reviving an old one here. JNC how did you wire the harness to the coil. Did you split the single wire coming out the alternator. The MTD kit has a two pin plug for the alternator and only one wire coming out the Honda.


THe one wire coming out from the side of the engine is positive. Plug that into one of the terminals on the MTD plug and ground the other one to any bolt on the bare engine. I dont thing polarity matters on the MTD plug.


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## guilateen02

Thanks I was a little confused because my MTD kit already has a separate ground wire aside from the two prong connector. I'm getting ready for the install this weekend. I didn't wan' t to guess and end with fried grips.


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## Vermont007

I don't know if there's a similarity between the MTD "Kit" and those heated hand grips that come already installed on MTD Units.

I have the latter, and they rely on AC from my Tecumseh 18 Watt Stator Dual Coil Alternator (611111) . The leads from the engine are RED and YELLOW in a common connector; RED for the HandGrips, YELLOW for the Head Light. Then, on return, both the Hand Grips and the Headlight are connected to a common ground (GREEN) back to the Frame. I believe I've read that the power supplied to the Light Circuit is greater than that to the Grips; something like 12 and 6, surprisingly.

That's the way it's set up on my *MTD Factory Installed Hand Grips* . . . . if that helps. I don't know anything about Honda, except how to spell it.


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