# 1971-72 Ariens 910995: no tension on pull cord



## wildlegend (Jan 31, 2015)

Hello:

I'm new to this forum and to snow blower repair in general. I have a 3 generation hand-me-down Ariens 910995 which I think is from 1971-72. I've made a couple belt replacements to it, but not much else, so I could use some guidance (please) on where to start with my current issue.

Recently, the day after successfully using the blower to clear my driveway, I tried to start it and the pull cord is weak. No tension or resistance whatsoever, and it barely returns back to a coiled position (needs to be guided). 

From what I've read, this can mean anything from a broken pull cord or faulty pull cord assembly, to an engine issue with piston rods, valves, or the crankshaft. I'm happy to get my hands dirty and try to diagnose it, but I'm a little unsure where to start looking. I took out the sparkplug to try and see if pistons/valves are moving when I pull the cord, but nothing seems to move. There appear to be some gears behind the pull cord coil but they aren't moving either.

Based on a quick check of the dipstick, the unit is full of oil.

I guess I'll start removing bolts and screws on the cover to see if I can spot anything interesting. 

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you


----------



## AandPDan (Nov 18, 2014)

Hi Wild,

There is a clutch on the end of the starter assembly, so it doesn't keep turning when the engine is running. It sounds frozen. It could be from moisture or it could be from rust/corrosion.

You should see the flywheel spin when you pull the rope.

Can you pull the shroud? There's just a few bolts.


----------



## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Is the pull cord engaging the engine when you pull it? If not it's prob a simple recoil spring repair, they are readily avail and videos on YouTube can guide you. If the engine is engaging and just spinning free then you could be looking at a bigger problem engine wise.
What are the engine numbers? Prob stamped into the shroud on top, near the spark plug...


----------



## wildlegend (Jan 31, 2015)

Thanks for your responses. 

- The engine is a Tecumseh 7HP, model H70-130067, serial 076316767.

- From what I can tell, the engine is NOT engaging. Nothing is, really. The cord just freely pulls. I'm not sure what the flywheel is (sorry) but I can see inside what appears to be a gear-like wheel right behind the pull cord coil, and that doesn't turn either. Attaching a pic of that (apologies for the sideways pic).

- I'm sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by the shroud, but I'm guessing it's the sheet-like metal covering the engine with about 8 bolts in it. I am including a picture of the top side. There are 3 bolts remaining that appear to be holding the gas tank in place (there is also one supporting a bracket underneath the tank, so it may be safe to remove the top 3).

- Also including a picture of the pull cord coil cover, which has 4 very stubborn screws holding it in.


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

EDIT: just thought about it, if it's springing back, then the recoil spring is probably seated properly (ignore the suggestion below)...the tines just aren't grabbing the flywheel. The recoil would need to come-off regardless. 

I just serviced my recoil from a '71 H35.

I'm guessing where the recoil spring grabs the inner stationary piece has either become unseated or corroded. 

This one is very easy to disassemble. Remove those 4 screws and the rest should be fairly intuitive:


----------



## AandPDan (Nov 18, 2014)

You can pull the 4 screws or the shroud, the sheet metal cover.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the forum wildlegend. Here is a link to a good video by one of our favorite small engine mechanics on youtube. I hope this helps clarify what you need to do. If not, come on back and someone will be happy to help further.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Yes, that big geared thing is the flywheel. If that isn't turning then something is wrong with the rope mechanism. As for the bolts removed on top, those are the head bolts. You don't want to try and run it with those removed. You should leave those alone unless you intend on removing the head or need to remove a couple to get a cover off.


----------



## wildlegend (Jan 31, 2015)

Thanks again to everyone for their input, and for the YouTube link.

The cord *does* recoil most of the way, albeit slowly, and I have to guide it the last half a foot or so. It could be a spring problem, but classiccat's suggestion about the flywheel not being engaged also sounds interesting.

Unfortunately, now I have a new problem (sorry). I was able to get two of the screws off of the recoil cover with WD-40 and the right screwdriver bit, but two of them are hopelessly stripped. In my picture, it is the top and leftmost ones that are still stuck.

Any ideas how to get these off? Given the close quarters with the surrounding cover I can't think of anything except *maybe* my rotary tool.


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

if you can grip them with a small pair of vice grips and get them to turn just a bit you should be good to go.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

An impact screwdriver would help you for those. It is basically a screwdriver that you hit with a hammer. When you hit it the force pushes it in and turns it at the same time. You should be able to pull the larger cover off and leave those screws there if you can't get them off. With the larger cover off you should be able to cut and drill from the backside easier.


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

wildlegend said:


> Thanks again to everyone for their input, and for the YouTube link.
> 
> The cord *does* recoil most of the way, albeit slowly, and I have to guide it the last half a foot or so. It could be a spring problem, but classiccat's suggestion about the flywheel not being engaged also sounds interesting.
> 
> ...


Ugh...not the best fastener design...newer models are held on by nuts & there are studs in the shroud.

These are usually best removed using an impact driver...but that doesn't do you much good now does it .

If it's completely hosed and you can't grab it with pliers/vice-grips, you can drill the head off...1/4"-bit should do it.

The pull handle should fully retract. When you do get it off of the machine, disassemble it and spray some penetrating oil or marvel mystery oil on the recoil spring and move it a few times. You can probably use another turn of the rope...donboy has a pretty good trick for doing it @ 4:00:





^^^the older models like ours are held on by a screw...we don't have to punch the shaft-out like he does in the video.

good luck!


----------



## wildlegend (Jan 31, 2015)

Gonna try my small channel locks if I can. Tight quarters. Might go get a new can of WD40 as my old one was basically vapor.


----------



## AL- (Oct 27, 2014)

wildlegend said:


> Thanks again to everyone for their input, and for the YouTube link.
> 
> The cord *does* recoil most of the way, albeit slowly, and I have to guide it the last half a foot or so. It could be a spring problem, but classiccat's suggestion about the flywheel not being engaged also sounds interesting.
> 
> ...


Along with WD 40 and before you use the small vise-grips take say an old bolt, about 2" long 5/16", and with hammer rap a bit on the head of the bolt( not to hard). The idea being that the vibrations from hitting on the head the of bolt you want to remove will break some of the rust that is holding this bolt from screwing out. Then hopefully along with WD-40 the bolt with come out.


----------



## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

Just an fyi, those take a larger than normal screwdriver. I usually use a pick to clean out the Phillips grooves, then give the screwdriver a whack to seat it well.


----------



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

nt40lanman said:


> Just an fyi, those take a larger than normal screwdriver.


This.
As an aircraft mechanic for over 25 years you learn to get good at removing screws.
Unfortunately it's probably too late now for this advice, but choosing the right tool is important. Especially when there is some corrosion involved. 
phillips sizeing

If you can locate a #3 bit driver you may still have a chance on what remains of the fastener. Pushing in on the screw to keep the tip seated while turning is critical. 

You may have to become proficient at one of several methods of stripped fastener extraction. Start by googling "remove stripped screw" and see if any of the methods will help you.


----------



## wildlegend (Jan 31, 2015)

*Fixed!*

Thanks again to everyone for their input.

I was able to get the last two screws off - one of them using WD40 and tapping with a hammer and PH3 bit, the other drilling a bit deeper, then using a torque bit. It took a while!  I tried a couple other options including duct taping the philips slot, and even bought a small, needle-nose vice grips, but ultimately they didn't help.

Removing the coil assembly, I noticed there was nothing really wrong with either end. I think the two parts (male and female) had simply come apart, and were not joining up when I pulled the cord. I've read online that a gentle tap on the cover of the coil with a hammer sometimes fixes this.

I reassembled everything (using new screws and washers for the shroud and coil assembly), and it starts up fine. The pull cord itself works fine too.

I'm sorry if I wasted anyone's time, but I learned a lot, and got a new sparkplug into the unit in the process. And I made my grandfather happy, as this was originally his snowblower.  

Thank you all again for your help. I was so impressed to get such quick and helpful responses. This is a great forum, and I will most definitely be back.


----------



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Glad it wall worked-out for ya there Legend! Don't be a stranger! 

If you don't have one already, grab yourself one of these impact drivers. I like wrenching on old equipment, and these things are invaluable for not only removing screws but also stubborn bolts without stripping and/or breaking them off. With the help of heat & penetrating oil, give it a few taps forward, then reverse...walking-out the stubborn fastener.


----------



## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Yeah! Good job...glad it's up and running again!


----------



## AandPDan (Nov 18, 2014)

Glad you got it.


----------



## 404 (Feb 1, 2015)

Try to tighten the offending screw and then loosen.


----------



## MuncieM22 (Jul 28, 2012)

You got that 404, that's the trick I most often use first and it does work!!.....


----------

