# 10530SBE: Is it worth fixing?



## Dos522

Hello all,
I purchased a used 2006 Husqvarna 10530SBE Snow Thrower from a coworker for $275 In January 2013. I took it recently to a power equipment repair shop in town to get it serviced and overall check up. They found multiple items that need replacement or repair totaling $300 in parts and about $395 in labor.(see list below) My question for the forum is, should I just buy another blower/thrower? Or, should I buy the parts and attempt the repairs myself? I consider myself to be decently handy as I perform my own oil/trans fluid changes, brake pads/rotor replacements on my car. Through looking at some videos on Youtube, small engine repair work doesn't seem like rocket science. If you take something apart, you put back together in reverse order, simple.

Repair List: Total cost of parts found online - $275 w/ shipping.

Various shear/hex bolt replacements (auger, motor mount, etc)
Spark plug replacement
Impeller belt, probably replace the drive belt at the same time.
Protective plastic belt cover replacement
New deflector control assembly 
New chute rotator control assembly
Axle bearing replacement

Thank you in advance for your advice.


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## sscotsman

hmmm..
my first thought is that this is a seriously padded list! 
a 9 year old snowblower shouldnt need that much done to it..
unless it was unusually unfortunate to have a very neglectful and abusive first owner..which can happen.

Can you post some photos? im curious what some of those cosmetic issues look like.
we need a feel for what kind of condition this machine is really in before we can say if the dealer list is really legit or not..
(im guessing not so legit!  unless this snowblower was unusually neglected by the original owner.)

Scot


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## detdrbuzzard

hello dos, welcome to *SBF*
are the bolt ( shear, hex bolts, and motor mount ) broken
is the belt cover broken or missing
are the deflector and chute assemblys brken on not working properly
change both belts and replace the sparkplug also do an oil change and lube everything that needs it. if you can get an owners manual and go through it, it might show lube points and b of some help to you


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## GustoGuy

That's Why I maintain all my small engines myself. As to motor mounts. Small engines are simply bolted to the snowblower body. They do not have official motor mounts like a car engine does. I am surprised that they did not tell you you need to change the blinker fluid in your Snowblower. Gives Dealers a bad name in my opinion. Dealer = stealer in many ways. The only time I bring any thing into a dealer is if it is still under warranty.


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## Dos522

Thank you for the quick responses!

I"ll try to answer some of the questions:
-I know I wrote "motor mounts", that is not what they told me. The 4 bolts that hold the engine in place, 3 are missing.
-There are various bolts that are missing or broken, like a shear bolt on one side of the auger needs to be replaced.
-The belt cover mounts to the engine, one side has snapped.
-I do have the manual for the thrower and the engine manual.
-The deflector assembly wire is broken, and the chute rotator assembly works. It just doesn't work as smoothly or easily as it probably should. The chute rotator I'll probably just leave alone and see if I can lube some of the moving parts.
-AS FAR AS THE FIRST OWNER GOES...I was told that it was only used a few times over the first few years until they bought an ATV w/ snow plow attachment. The first owner was the father of my coworker who is not a handy person, when something breaks he buys a new one.

I will try to take some pictures son and post them. I'm sure that will help in assessing whether to try and sell and buy a new one, or repair this one on my own.


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## GustoGuy

Bolts and shear pins can be bought at a hardware store. I would replace the missing bolts and use nylon ring lock nuts to secure the engine down since they are unlikely to loosen up due to engine vibration. If the engine bolts that are missing are as the result of broken off studs you will need to drill them out to replace the bolts. You simply need to remove the belly pan cover and drill out any broken off studs and install new bolts. As to the chute you can use a low temperature grease to lube it. You may need to adjust it so it works better. As to repair of broken metal or plastic parts some times you can repair parts with sheet metal and rivets or find a replacement part on ebay or buy it on the Internet for a lot less then the dealer is charging.


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## joee5

Looks like they tryin to get rich quick at the expense of their customers (yours) pockets


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## Pythons37

Yes, it's worth fixing. But, not by that guy.


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## detdrbuzzard

Pythons37 said:


> Yes, it's worth fixing. But, not by that guy.


I agree! the cable will probably cost more than the shear bolt and nylock nuts. the belt cover can be repaired with sheet metal or sheet aluminum and rivets or nuts and bolts on to hold everything together


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## Dos522

sscotsman said:


> hmmm..
> 
> Can you post some photos? im curious what some of those cosmetic issues look like.
> we need a feel for what kind of condition this machine is really in before we can say if the dealer list is really legit or not..
> 
> Scot


Here are some photos of my humble machine, I've decided to try to fix it myself. Hopefully with some guidance from the forum, I'll get it purring and save some of my hard earned samolians.


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## greatwhitebuffalo

Dos522 said:


> Hello all,
> I purchased a used 2006 Husqvarna 10530SBE Snow Thrower from a coworker for $275 In January 2013. I took it recently to a power equipment repair shop in town to get it serviced and overall check up. They found multiple items that need replacement or repair totaling $300 in parts and about $395 in labor.(see list below) My question for the forum is, should I just buy another blower/thrower? Or, should I buy the parts and attempt the repairs myself? I consider myself to be decently handy as I perform my own oil/trans fluid changes, brake pads/rotor replacements on my car. Through looking at some videos on Youtube, small engine repair work doesn't seem like rocket science. If you take something apart, you put back together in reverse order, simple.
> 
> Repair List: Total cost of parts found online - $275 w/ shipping.
> 
> Various shear/hex bolt replacements (auger, motor mount, etc)
> Spark plug replacement
> Impeller belt, probably replace the drive belt at the same time.
> Protective plastic belt cover replacement
> New deflector control assembly
> New chute rotator control assembly
> Axle bearing replacement
> 
> Thank you in advance for your advice.


 
fix it, but do it yourself.


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## Grunt

It's not a big deal and will not affect the operation of your machine, but, the tire tread pattern is facing the wrong way. The tires need to be switched from side to side so the chevron pattern faces forward (>>>) not (<<<). Sorry for being a little anal.


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## PixMan

I had one of those which I bought used, for a bit more money than that. I know better now where pricing should be and you did just fine.

Mine was a bit more abused, that one is very fixable. I would swap the wheels side for side, they are on there with the hitch pins for quick change. Take the chute right off and work on refinishing the inside to keep it from clogging up in wet snow and throwing any of it further. Take the plastic belt guard off and try "plastic welding" the tabs back on.

Get a new cable for the chute control, and that may be all you need. If you haven't got the original owner's operation, parts and service manual for the machine, they can be downloaded if you search around a bit.

You should be able to get it close to new performance for under $100.


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## Kiss4aFrog

It sure looks like it's worth repairing if you chose to do it yourself.

The tires are on backwards.

The chute control just needs a cable but it looks like it's only listed as an assembly. Before I spend $55 on the assembly I'd see if I could find a cable that would work.


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## Dos522

I have finally found the time and the motivation to get this project going being that winter is around the corner. Has anyone replaced or know where to get info about replacing the axle bearing on my Husqvarna 10530 SBE? Also, is a belts replacement fairly simple to do with one person?


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## YSHSfan

GustoGuy said:


> Small engines are simply bolted to the snowblower body. They do not have official motor mounts like a car engine does..


Except for Yamaha, YS624 and YS828 do have actual motor mounts.


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## Dos522

I have been thinking about repainting the chute on my Husky 10530 SBE so I could get rid of all the rust on the inside. However, I was curious about how much would it be just to buy a new chute. To repaint the chute correctly with removing the rust, I would have to sandblast it which means purchasing more tools. The cost of new chute is about $46. I think all I would need is the chute, the deflector and all the other pieces seem to be fairly rust free.

So I guess my question is, would I be wasting more money buying a new chute or buying all the supplies I would need to strip and repaint the original one?


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## Kiss4aFrog

You can also wire brush it and then sand (or just wire brush) and coat it with rush converter and cover with your choice of color.

There are a number of different manufacturers.









The chute on a "daily driver" is going to take some abuse no matter what. I personally wouldn't spend the money getting it sandblasted or buying the tools unless you have other uses for the equipment.

It's just something to touch up each year especially if you're on gravel like me when you're oiling and greasing the other stuff.

If you want to get crazy I really like the idea of lining it with plastic.


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## Dos522

Kiss4aFrog said:


> You can also wire brush it and then sand (or just wire brush) and coat it with rush converter and cover with your choice of color.
> 
> The chute on a "daily driver" is going to take some abuse no matter what. I personally wouldn't spend the money getting it sandblasted or buying the tools unless you have other uses for the equipment.
> 
> It's just something to touch up each year especially if you're on gravel like me when you're oiling and greasing the other stuff.
> 
> If you want to get crazy I really like the idea of lining it with plastic.


That plastic idea sounds great! I might clean up all the rust with a wire brush wheel on my drill, then paint and cover it with plastic. 

Are there threads on here that give some instructions or tips, like where to buy the plastic?


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## Kiss4aFrog

There are ebay sites for plastic, 5 gal pail works too :icon_whistling::icon_whistling: as does a flat plastic sliding sled from Walmart or ....
Pretty much anything plastic and you can rivet, glue (2000 nails or ...) or bolt it in.
Might be handy to have a heat gun to help mold it.
I'd do the impeller housing too before doing the impeller kit.


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## Dos522

Frog, you're a wealth knowledge!


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## Dos522

This is probably a dumb question but......There's a hex nut on a bolt on top of the chute rotator assembly which also has the spring that's connected to the deflector hooked on it. How much should I tighten that hex nut? Should it be tightened all the way so the spring is sandwiched between the two hex nuts or should there be a gap of some sort? :smiley-confused009:


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## PixMan

It needs a gap or it's no longer a tension/resistance spring...it becomes a solid bushing. The purpose of it is to give some resistance to the chute from rotating around on its own while that thumper of a motor is pounding away.


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## Dos522

PixMan said:


> It needs a gap or it's no longer a tension/resistance spring...it becomes a solid bushing. The purpose of it is to give some resistance to the chute from rotating around on its own while that thumper of a motor is pounding away.


Is there a specific gap space or just enough so that it moves freely?


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## 43128

some peiople use those flexible plastic sleds


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## Kiss4aFrog

Dos522 said:


> Is there a specific gap space or just enough so that it moves freely?


Tight enough so that it doesn't move on it's own but loose enough you're not using two hands to rotate it.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Dos522, would it be possible for you to post pictures of the handles that engage the drive wheels and augers? I have been restoring my 10530SBE and I did not take detailed pictures of how the black handles mount and the orientation of the spring under the left handle. Any help much appreciated.


Thanks


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## Dos522

Sorry it took so long. I just took it out of the shed today and put the mower away. I hope this helps, let me know if you need any other angles of pictures.


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## 43128

GustoGuy said:


> That's Why I maintain all my small engines myself. As to motor mounts. Small engines are simply bolted to the snowblower body. They do not have official motor mounts like a car engine does. I am surprised that they did not tell you you need to change the blinker fluid in your Snowblower. Gives Dealers a bad name in my opinion. Dealer = stealer in many ways. The only time I bring any thing into a dealer is if it is still under warranty.



unless its an ht 3813

those beasts have motor mounts







see :31


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## vinny2006

OK. I need some help with this 10530SBE that I just bought used so i thought this maybe the perfect place to ask for it. Here's the story. So I bought a used 10530SBE off a guy on CL. Picked it up maybe 3 weeks ago when the weather was beautiful and no snow for me to test and at the time I tried everything and it seems fine. Now fast forward to yesterday's Nor'Easter in Boston. I took the machine out to start using and right away I noticed an issue. What happens is when the machine has any bit of resistance (yesterday's snow was very heavy BTW) the the left wheel won't spin. When I say left I mean standing in operating position and the wheel on the left under the drive lever, not the auger lever. Anyways when it hits resistance the wheel won't spin and I can see the axel spinning taking the cotter pin with it but the wheel sits still.

Had to borrow my neighbor's machine to finish the job. Then I took the machine into my garage and opened it up and checked it out. Now I am pretty handy when it comes to these things as like OP I have worked on cars, I can change all fluids and do basic things like brakes, calipers and rotors, etc. And I understand how these things work. Anyways I find that the power steering levers work fine. When I engage either power steering lever it would pull in the gears to free spin that wheel so the other one spins only. I get that part and like I said both sides seems to be fine and well lubed and not sticking at all. Which puzzles me why the left one just does not "lock in" when it hits resistance. It is almost like something is wrong with the power steering on that side and maybe under some resistance it disengages and "unlocks" the wheel automatically. Now both wheels are the same. One end of the wheel hub has 2 slots and the other end has nothing. The 2 slots would go into the gears and the gears the use those 2 slots to move the wheel. But I looked online and Husqvarna illustrated it different. If you look on page 30 of this manuals it shows the cotter pin going through the 2 slots of the wheels and thru the holes on each end of the axel. Not the way the wheels are mounted now. Although the way they are mounted now the air valves are on the outside with the tire tread going forward like this......... Back >>>> Front.

http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2006_USen/HUSI2006_USen_I0602045_.pdf

So my question to you guys is this. Can I reverse the wheels and put the wheels just like the manual showed? So say right now the 2 slots go thru the gears to spin, can I put the 2 slots on the outside and let it go through the cotter pin? I know this will mean I will not have the power steering feature since the slots are no longer on the inside for the power steering to lock and unlock. But at this point I don't care about the power steering. What good is it if only one wheel spins anyways. I rather have a fixed locking axel just like my old MTD machine that recently gave way because of rust after 21 years of running really well. Do you guys see any issues with this? I would love some feedback and really appreciate any help anyone can give me. Either that or I bring it in for service. I understand that by doing this the air valves will be on the inside but id need to fill air I can always remove the wheels to do it. The tread will still be in right directions.

Thanks a lot.

Vinny


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## Tezcatlipoca

vinny2006 said:


> But I looked online and Husqvarna illustrated it different. If you look on page 30 of this manuals it shows the cotter pin going through the 2 slots of the wheels and thru the holes on each end of the axel. Not the way the wheels are mounted now. Although the way they are mounted now the air valves are on the outside with the tire tread going forward like this......... Back >>>> Front.
> 
> http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2006_USen/HUSI2006_USen_I0602045_.pdf
> 
> So my question to you guys is this. Can I reverse the wheels and put the wheels just like the manual showed?


Looks like a wrong drawing in the diagram, the way yours are mounted are correct. This is the same company that has promo pictures of a ST224 with the augers mounted backwards :icon-rolleyes:. I'm about 95% sure they don't physically fit if you put the slots to the outside.


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## vinny2006

Tezcatlipoca said:


> Looks like a wrong drawing in the diagram, the way yours are mounted are correct. This is the same company that has promo pictures of a ST224 with the augers mounted backwards :icon-rolleyes:. I'm about 95% sure they don't physically fit if you put the slots to the outside.



Actually it fits perfectly. I bought some Dry Lube yesterday and sprayed the dogs but it was no help so I just reversed the tires (left to right, right to left) so that I keep the tread pattern the same and the slots outside locked by the cotter pin. Works perfectly but only thing is the air valves are on the inside now but minor issue. Took it out and did some paths in the backyard for my dogs to run around in and it was perfect. Only lost power steering now though but at least it is working and maybe during the summer if I have time I will check it out further.


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