# 1962? Ariens 10ML35 broken starter recoil spring



## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

ok the recoil spring on my old 10ML35 gave up the ghost. the inner hook/ring tab broke off. the outer hook was still holding
Not bad considering it lasted 53 years. 
the issue is, which one do I replace it with ?
the tag plate says H35 and serial number starts with 3
it has a half round front chute bucket, not a teardrop shape, with no side shields on the front bucket
so this appears to be a late 1962/early 1963 machine, with all the physical appearance traits of a bona fide 1962 machine
it is not a Lauson engine, it was made after the dropped the "LAV35" Lauson designations on the engine nameplate, and started marking them "H35"
appears to be a 1962 model year machine
there are 4 bolts holding the recoil cover in place, and the bolts are located like points on a compass, top-bottom-left-right,
i.e. 12-3-6-9 o'clock positions, like this +
not offset pattern like this X

looking on Ebay I see quite a few recoils for a H35, but it is NOT this one BELOW, as mine does not have that type of round holder for the spring.







tit appears to be more like THIS ONE BELOW, question is, how do I install it ? just use that ring as a compressor installation tool, and push it down into round depression where the old spring once was, and connect the tabs ?







having said all this, I have heated up the end of the old spring cherry red on my kitchen gas stove, and rebent the end. if I could get it compressed back down small enough to get it back in there, I may be able to reinstall the old spring. but it seems like for $6 better just buy a new one

what say you ? all suggestions welcome


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Looking for this Recoil? PM if interested.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

Jackmel, PM has been sent...but...
in the meantime, I rewound the spring after heating/rebending the inner tab, and put it back inside the recoil cover. changed the rope while there.
it's working again.
was a real bear to do using needle nose vise grips and needle nose pliers, but we got 'er...
also eye protection and thick rubber gloves...if that thing jumps out it can take an eye out, or cut your neck open. lots of tension there.
I "had it" and got picky, tried to tighten it just one more revolution to pull the cord in tighter, and it snapped free inside. had to disassemble, re-heat/bend the tab at a sharper angle, and re-assemble. 
then put it back in again, and let it be. 
found out to wind it up, start on inner tab, grab 2 thicknesses of spring, and start winding it up/in counter-clockwise, until the outer tab grabs the anchor slot on the o.d.
it's been a while since I wound one of these up, last one was about 10 years ago on an old David Bradley chainsaw


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

could have bent the inner tab more than it was in opposite direction, and not sure if the o.d. tab is on the right anchor slot, but it works best there, so I think it's good to go...that pull handle and cord was from a little Craftsman 3.5 push lawn mower, Briggs engine. after the pic, I put the oem Ariens handle back on. better grip.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i usually just swap them with this style recoil


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

yeh, that's what a parts dealer suggested on the phone to me today...
any later model 3.5 to 7 HP Tec. cover will swap on...

but for the price of that cover, I can buy another machine...
only paid $30 for a complete Snowbird

I like fixing it for the good price...
free...
and the challenge of being able to wind up back up, and put it back in there...

there's another issues as well...being a 1962 ? model, the original i.d. tag is screwed onto the cover. 
like to keep it original if I can...


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

the doctored up recoil spring would work a few times, then the curled end of the spring on the i.d. would loose its tension and come out of the anchor hole. had to bite the bullet and obtain an NOS replacement spring for $7.
installed that and now she's good to go...
the pneumatic tires, chains, axles are also installed from a donor 10ML60, but winter is now over for the season...
so we'll pick up the Ariens 10ML35 next winter...it's a nice little machine and runs well, looking forward to trying it out....albeit it may be underpowered. time will tell.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Yep, recoil looks like this is what I need...

I have tension on the rope and full recoil. BUT, no tossing of the finger to connect with the flywheel. Yes, the finger is there, although I'm sure that is not the technical name! Can anyone guide me on whether this can be repaired? 



Jackmels said:


> Looking for this Recoil? PM if interested.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

The recoil on dad's '67 has been sluggish to retract, have to give it a nudge. I was thinking about servicing it. Dad said are you sure? It's been like that since forever and still works. 

I pulled to inspect the cord Looked good. So it should be good for at least another decade.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Can anyone give me an idea as to how hard it is to change the recoil rope on this type of old tecumseh recoil? It seems like I've got to take the whole recoil apart just to replace the cord......and I'm concerned about being able to get it back together...


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

gsnod said:


> Can anyone give me an idea as to how hard it is to change the recoil rope on this type of old tecumseh recoil? It seems like I've got to take the whole recoil apart just to replace the cord......and I'm concerned about being able to get it back together...


If the spring is fine, you usually just need to take off the recoil starter from the flywheel housing, usually just 4 bolts. Then remove the cord remnants, thread in a new one at the locking point, and then wind up the spring with the cord held perpendicular to the sheave. There's often a notch for the cord to come up through to give extra clearance between the sheave and the housing for the cord to pass around easily. When you have enough tension, poke the end of the cord out through the hole in the housing and secure it to the pull handle with a simple figure 8 knot. If you need more tension, just fish the cord up where it exits the sheave and add a turn or two of spring tension as needed.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

TooTall999 said:


> Seeing as the last post on this thread was in 2015, I'm guessing it's either fixed or the OP has moved on. Nice thread resurrection though!


Actually, the post I responded to was on 03-31-2019, 03:58 PM. I'm unclear as to what you're grousing about...


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

I'm late to respond - Thanks Tabora. I'll need to look at that recoil again, as I can't even see where the cord is anchored/knotted on the recoil. That's my main point. Usually you can see exactly where to thread the cord and then tie a knot. On this old recoil, even when I pull the whole cord out, I can't even see where it ends. The end is hidden under the center spring area.


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