# Help!!!! Question regarding TRACK DRIVE!!!



## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

I recently bought and old Craftsman 12.5/33 track drive snowblower. When I bought it I really thought that the machine would be a tank and fairly capable. However, there is one little problem with it. The forward drive with the Track mechanism no longer functions at all. The only thing that seems to work properly anymore is the reverse speeds. 

About the drivetrain inside the housing. It is completely chain driven with the typical friction disk that all these machines seem to rely on. There is an enormous amount of friction within the system for some reason. Basically this machine cannot be moved forward or reverse. I feel that unless the friction plate is engaged that this machine should be somewhat easy to push forward or pull back without the tracks engaged. I am fearful that this machines drivetrain is basically SHOT! Don't know the model number because it was peeled off or came off of the housing. Hopefully some of you can tell me if what I am thinking about this machine is correct or not and what to expect with a friction disk drive snowblower. I will get some pics and maybe someone can even give me a model number on the unit. 

Sincerely need some help to rectify this mistake. Rob

I will go and get some pics to attach for you all to look at. Thanks!


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Maybe? Just grasping at straws here.
I found this Craftsman on ebay,
Edit, I took out the picture I found of his blower.
He has not been back since March 2014 anyway.
I need room in my attachment folder.

With the model number he had listed I found this manual, take a look at the track drive diagram,
CRAFTSMAN Gas Snowthrower Parts | Model 536881260 | SearsPartsDirect

Does this look a little like your track drive?
I think a lot of the track drives in different models basically used the same setup on different models.
I am by no means an expert on blowers just trying to find you a place to start.
It would be nice if you knew the model number.
By all means post a picture for the snowblower gurus here.
Edit,
Mods, I guess you should move my reply over to this post?
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...orum/18026-no-forward-gears-tracks-help.html?
The OP double posted his question.


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

Big Ed,

Yeah, I have been everywhere trying to find a reference pic and there it is! Yeah, that looks alot like the unit that I have. Thanks! I will still post pics though so maybe someone can comfirm. I was told that it is a 2002 year blower. Still waiting on camera battery to charge but pics soon!

Thanks for the start Ed!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I have merged the two threads together and deleted all the duplicate material.


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

Posted pics of the snowblower that I have! Come on, nobody has anything to tell me.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

You have a friction wheel and the disc drive plate that it contacts.
Is there a gap in between the plate and the friction wheel?
Or is the friction wheel sitting on the plate?

Also on the friction wheel, where it contacts the drive plate does it still have it's rubber on it?

Still grasping the straws here. 
What happened to the motor?


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> You have a friction wheel and the disc drive plate that it contacts.
> Is there a gap in between the plate and the friction wheel?
> Or is the friction wheel sitting on the plate?
> 
> ...


The motor is fine! Took it off to try and get something else going but it isn't gonna work like I hoped. Old motor that wont run had a PTO and it spins backwards compared to main shaft. As a result, the gears were reversed. I guess it kinda worked but some alignment issues as well. Seeing if correct engine can be fixed. 

To answer your question, there is a gap between the friction disk and the drive wheel and there is definitely some meat left on the disk.

Doesn't the lever on the bar basically push the friction disk into the drive wheel which in turn engages the tracks/wheels. Gotta admit that it is a creative drive system which should turn smoothly/easily if not engaged? NO?????

Rob


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Just a crazy thought, could it be that the drive cable is not properly adjusted?


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

db9938 said:


> Just a crazy thought, could it be that the drive cable is not properly adjusted?


I hear you but if it were adjusted improperly then why does it work seemingly perfect in reverse? 

Also, what about the drivetrain itself, shouldn't the tracks turn pretty easily when the transmission is not engaged? Mine is virtually impossible to rotate the tracks. I have a smaller model with a different trans but still a disk setup that I can turn very easily by hand. Thoughts?


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

The movement issue, could be the treads themselves. My Honda is the same way, but the Yami is as easy as any wheeled model. Nonetheless, I'd check the bearings, to ensure that there is no binding issues. 

With the engagement issue, it could still be barely touching the friction disk, and work well, and it could be that the surface is just worn enough to allow grip in one direction. 

I'd try one or two turns, and see if it improves. The worst that you would have to do, is to let it back out. 

Now, the only real way to figure what is going on, is going to mean a progressive tear down until you narrow down the source of the bind. Unfortunately, the only thing that any of us can truly offer are stabs in the dark. We're pulling for you, but we are just amateurs that have an addiction to snow blowers and turning wrenches.

On edit: since the motor has been pulled, how about putting it the machine in the service position, up on the auger housing, and pull the bottom plate off and take a picture.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

if the motor is blown and you cant find another with a pto, find another one without a pto and swap the camshaft and sump cover, as for the track drive the friction disc is probably adjusted to far, loosen up the tension on the cable


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

db9938 said:


> We're pulling for you, but we are just amateurs that have an addiction to snow blowers and turning wrenches.
> 
> On edit: since the motor has been pulled, how about putting it the machine in the service position, up on the auger housing, and pull the bottom plate off and take a picture.


Much appreciated! I will take a pic with it up in the service position and maybe there is something noticably wrong in there. However, there seems to be alot going on. 

I am an amateur as well for the most part but definitely like to mess with things. I guess that worst case scenario this thing is probably gonna get slightly changed/modified.  

Luckily, I have 10 months to get it done.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Also, while you have it tipped up, take a good flashlight and look at every nut and bolt and bracket inside there for signs of wear or breakage.


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## darcy32171 (Nov 28, 2013)

Check the bolt beside the gear on the axle shaft that it is not broke. I would also check that the round friction plate has all the springs attached.


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

1. Does anybody have a service manual for this craftsman 
Model# 536-881260 that they can forward to me in a file.

2. Should the friction Disk be Very Smooth to basically polished or a little bit rough so that it graby the disk? Mine is pretty smooth for the most part.

3. A bit nervous about taking this thing apart. There is alot of stuff going on inside that metal box!  

Personally, I think that they chains are worn out inside the tranny and the teeth on the small cogs are worn and the chain is jumping/skipping teeth when it was last working. It would jump forward a couple of inches and stop. Jump forward and stop. Finally it would do nothing. Going in reverse seems perfectly good to go! 

I will post pics of what I find!


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Well, make sure to take a lot of pictures before, during, and after you tear things down. I may be a relatively low tech individual, but these smert fonz do come in darn handy for that purpose.


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

Ok, I was looking at some things and before I go and rip this whole thing apart I am gonna adjust the drive engagement by tightening it up. Currently there is probably about a 1/4 to 3/16 gap between the disc and plate without it engaged. Gonna tighten it up after I get a new cable. The end of the old cable was bent and the nut was rusted solid. 

I would think that the gap should probably be a bit smaller between the friction disk and drive wheel. Will see tomorrow what that does or doesn't do. Also, there is a decent amount of play in the chain drives. Hopefully a simple adjustment of the drive cable will get the needed tension to get this thing moving again.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

It honestly could just be the slack and wear in the system. But sometimes, that can be more difficult to determine if it is what is acceptable tolerances. 

What do the individual drive system sprockets look like?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The friction disc should be nice a smoothed, or like you say have a polished look to it. If you tried to roughen it up it will end up chewing up the rubber.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Hey Frost where did you get the model number from?
My e bay link? I don't know if that is the right number you know?
I just searched for pictures from your description.
When I found that I looked for a manual and couldn't find one, maybe one of the more experienced members know of a site for one?
As far as the gap between the friction wheel disc and the friction wheel disk plate my manual says to put a coin between them (they don't give a
denomination on the coin) and then there is a grease fitting under the friction wheel disk plate that you should grease. Just a little grease. 
That should take up a little of the play? 

You want to make sure that the friction wheel is in good shape otherwise your going to chew up the plate. I just bought a spare friction wheel for $18 bucks, the disc plate for mine is around $128!
When you find the correct model number the friction wheel would be good to have as a spare. Once it gets worn out you will mess up the plate.
The disc plate should be nice and smooth as mentioned, also it should be real nice and clean, you don't want any kind of grease or oil on it.
I found that the breather pipe for some engines vents down by that disc plate. Some add an extension on the breather tube to make it longer to eliminate the possibility of blowing oil on that plate. 
Check where your engines vent tube is while your in there.

You said you have a 5/22 also? Look at your manual for that about information on the wheel and plate. In there it says that after setting the shifter in first, the right outer side of the disc drive plate should be around 3" from the center of the friction wheel. 
I don't know what your track machine should be.

Do you have the manual for the 5/22?
That is online if you don't.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...86141-Craftsman-Parts-5HP+SNOW+THROWER-manual

Now that is for my 536886141 model number, look for yours at that site if you have a different model number.

Go slow, you have all summer.


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> Hey Frost where did you get the model number from?
> My e bay link? I don't know if that is the right number you know?
> I just searched for pictures from your description.
> When I found that I looked for a manual and couldn't find one, maybe one of the more experienced members know of a site for one?
> ...


Thanks Ed! I have way more than the width of a coin for the gap between the plate and the wheel. The model number that I got in that first post that you spotted what looked to be my snowblower. Do you have the ebay Item # for that listing? I have to get a manual or basically figure out something to do with this monster of a machine.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Tracks*

I helped a guy about 10-15 yrs ago on a Sears track unit, not the same as yours but similar. We found IIRC the tracks are driven by what normally would be the axel shaft and I think it had chains that ran from that to the sprockets on the track. Turned out the wheels in the tracks were rusted onto the shafts. Alot of disassembly and pentrating oil and eventually we got them loose. I've since read a couple of threads where people have drilled the hubs and installed grease zerks so they could grease them.

Lift the chassis into the service position and see if you can manually turn the friction wheel and will it turn the tracks. IIRC, it took some effort due to the extra mechanism but they should be able to move just doing that.
If the tracks move, then I'd look at the friction disc and wheel, but that's where I'd start.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Frosty said:


> Thanks Ed! I have way more than the width of a coin for the gap between the plate and the wheel. The model number that I got in that first post that you spotted what looked to be my snowblower. Do you have the ebay Item # for that listing? I have to get a manual or basically figure out something to do with this monster of a machine.


I got rid of it yesterday.

But I found it again see if this link works, if you want you can save all the images if you want. Right click and pick save image though I don't think they would be much help.
Try this one,
Sears Craftsman 33â€� 12 5 HP Snow Blower Track Drive Electric Start Two Stage | eBay

Or this one,
craftsman 12.5 hp 33" track snowblower | eBay

If the links don't work go to e bay and click advanced search, 
then put these words in,
craftsman 12.5 hp 33" track snowblower

Then check the sold listings box and click search it will bring this up.

Hey that seller is from Cherry hill, maybe he will help a fellow New Jerseyan
out. Ask him if he ever had the manual or know where to get one.
If he already had the blower picked up most likely it stayed in the state, maybe the new owner will help you out.

Tell him to sign up here, SNOWBLOWER FORUM.COM 

From previewing my post it should work.


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> I got rid of it yesterday.


 Boy Ed, That thing looks barely used compared to mine and they payed not more than I did for a LEMON!!!!! 



HCBPH said:


> I helped a guy about 10-15 yrs ago on a Sears track unit, not the same as yours but similar. We found IIRC the tracks are driven by what normally would be the axel shaft and I think it had chains that ran from that to the sprockets on the track. Turned out the wheels in the tracks were rusted onto the shafts. Alot of disassembly and pentrating oil and eventually we got them loose. I've since read a couple of threads where people have drilled the hubs and installed grease zerks so they could grease them.
> 
> Lift the chassis into the service position and see if you can manually turn the friction wheel and will it turn the tracks. IIRC, it took some effort due to the extra mechanism but they should be able to move just doing that.
> If the tracks move, then I'd look at the friction disc and wheel, but that's where I'd start.


I can manually turn the friction wheel and the tracks will turn. However, it isn't really that easy at all. Having said that there is alot of slop in the chains. At least more than I think is within reason.

I think that I am gonna modify this thing and build what I think would be the ultimate Tracked snowblower!


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## MuncieM22 (Jul 28, 2012)

I picked up a 1990 JD TRX26 (track drive, made by Noma) about 5 years ago which looks fairly similar. I could barely push it, the track would almost drag along. I wound up removing the tracks, replacing the chains driving them (rusted up), removed and cleaned up the driven track wheels (semi rusted to their axle shafts) lubed everything up and wal-la it motivated nicely. Every couple of years I remove and relube these track shafts and yearly lube the chains. The track drive will take you anywhere, the downside is maneuverability, it goes straight very well. Good luck with your project!!.....


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## Frosty (Feb 10, 2014)

MuncieM22 said:


> I picked up a 1990 JD TRX26 (track drive, made by Noma) about 5 years ago which looks fairly similar. I could barely push it, the track would almost drag along. I wound up removing the tracks, replacing the chains driving them (rusted up), removed and cleaned up the driven track wheels (semi rusted to their axle shafts) lubed everything up and wal-la it motivated nicely. Every couple of years I remove and relube these track shafts and yearly lube the chains. The track drive will take you anywhere, the downside is maneuverability, it goes straight very well. Good luck with your project!!.....


Thanks Muncie for the tips! I may take a look into doing that with the old drivetrain because the new one is gonna be completely different. I don't know if I will do a build up thread on it or not because there are alot of ideas floating around in my head about things that can fairly easily be improved IMHO.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Frosty said:


> Thanks Muncie for the tips! I may take a look into doing that with the old drivetrain because the new one is gonna be completely different. I don't know if I will do a build up thread on it or not because there are alot of ideas floating around in my head about things that can fairly easily be improved IMHO.


Did you see this thread yet?
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...10-5hp-23-width-craftsman-ii-trac-drive.html?
He might be able to give you some advice.
Read it (if you want) there is some advice in there to make things move easier.

Evapo rust, Evapo-Rust Rust Remover Home
take those chains off and soak them they will look almost new when you do. Save you some bucks.

some pictures, before and after, of some parts I soaked in it,
here, http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/187178-post7.html?

After you use the evapo rust just save it in a different container and use it over and over. If it is real dirty with gritty pieces in it just strain it through a coffee filter before you save it. Just keep it separate from what you have left of the new can.

I love that stuff, no hazardous properties to worry about taking skin off.
Good stuff.
A copy and paste,
EVAPO-RUSTTM removes rust without any environmental or safety hazards.

SCAQMD CAS Certified
Non-Corrosive
Non-Toxic
Neutral pH (6 - 7)
Not a Skin Irritant
No an Eye Irritant
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No VOC's
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Water-based
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Try it...............If you want.


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