# Fair Price? Toro Power Max 828LXE



## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

In anticipation of tonight's snow, I am considering a purchase! Above machine for $450 - supposedly "barely used and well maintained." Does that seem about right for a machine that must be at least 10 years or more old (only made that model from 2005-2007)


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

duxdweller said:


> In anticipation of tonight's snow, I am considering a purchase! Above machine for $450 - supposedly "barely used and well maintained." Does that seem about right for a machine that must be at least 10 years or more old (only made that model from 2005-2007)


 Do you have pics of it?????????? because without them I have no clue.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Cant upload images - but here's the link:

https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/grd/6037288077.html


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Looks pretty clean from the pictures. Just concerned about the age.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

A quick search on CL (via Searchtempest) shows that model and similar models all going in the $550 - 450 range. So the price is in the ballpark . . . just a matter of the actual condition of the machine.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Yeah it looks fine!!! 400 is the most I would go.*


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

8 hp and a 28 inch swath is nice. It looks clean with not much paint loss so it probably saw minimal action. Not a give away price but not a bad price either. If it works and you want to blow snow tomorrow do it.



Just clicked on link again - his price went UP!


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Some folks here have indicated that these machines can go for a long time (think someone said 25 years!) I'm sick of dealing with a machine that is undersized and underpowered. Hopefully this can fill the bill.


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## 524SWE (Jan 20, 2017)

Toros can go for 25+ years with proper maintenance, looks like he raised the price for the storm!


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

teeth are worn off rakes auger bucket sides are ground down i would offer no more than 300


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Looks like there is some no-matching red painted on the lower part of the bucket to get it rready for a quick sale. Pay someone to clean up tomorrow, and then snowblowers will drop in price by $100-200 overnight. People raise prices and stay firm on the calm before the storm. Wait it out.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

43128 said:


> teeth are worn off rakes auger bucket sides are ground down i would offer no more than 300


You can see those things from the pictures on CL ??? The bucket looks like it is set low, but not sure how much detail can be gleamed from those pics . . .

Anyway . . . @buxdweller . . . did you get the machine ???

EDIT: @43128 . . . I see what you are saying about the auger teeth . .


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## 524SWE (Jan 20, 2017)

duxdweller said:


> In anticipation of tonight's snow, I am considering a purchase! Above machine for $450 - supposedly "barely used and well maintained." Does that seem about right for a machine that must be at least 10 years or more old (only made that model from 2005-2007)


Yes, do tell, did you buy it? Thought they made those from 2005-2009 but I could be mistaken, anyway, look closely at the wear on the tires and the auger, if it is newer, $350, older $200 or less. Even older Toros will last a long time. Just try not to buy someone else's problems.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

That guy was asking $600 early this yr . To me if you get it for 400. or the 450 it won't be a bad price.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

69ariens said:


> That guy was asking $600 early this yr . To me if you get it for 400. or the 450 it won't be a bad price.


That just says that he was too greedy with his $600 price, NOT that the $400-$450 price is a good buy. Just my $0.02 - which may be too greedy ! LOL


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I don't think it's a great price, it's on the high side of fair, $400 is better, $300-$350 is great. Being at the end of the season, if he doesn't sell it and wants to, he will take $350.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

For whatever reason, Toro's don't seem to fetch the same prices as Ariens. I paid $200 for my 10 yr old 1028LE, but I had to free up the augers that were rusted to the shaft. Well, if you believe Toro, you can leave then rusted because the gearbox is so strong, that it will stall the engine instead. But I believe that, as much as those table saws that will stall the blade when you put a hot dog in front of the blade, but I have never seen anyone ever try it with their fingers !


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

RIT333 said:


> For whatever reason, Toro's don't seem to fetch the same prices as Ariens. I paid $200 for my 10 yr old 1028LE, but I had to free up the augers that were rusted to the shaft. Well, if you believe Toro, you can leave then rusted because the gearbox is so strong, that it will stall the engine instead. But I believe that, as much as those table saws that will stall the blade when you put a hot dog in front of the blade, but I have never seen anyone ever try it with their fingers !


I've seen the hot dog demo on Ask This Old House!

And what is the guarantee and the reimbursement? My eyes have trouble reading the extra super fine print.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

So yes, I sort of bought it. He brought it over and we fired it up. It was running a little "rough." The machine physically looks pretty good. I would say a 7/8 out of 10. Tires look new. Auger blades are worn - but I don't think they're shot? Skids are perfectly ok.

The "rough idle" I wasn't so thrilled with. I asked if he'd changed the plug lately - "Dunno." Maybe that's it? Also seems like if I push the throttle harder toward "full" it runs smoother? Maybe that's adjustable?

Anyway, I told him I wasn't thrilled with the idle and therefore wasn't so hot on unloading a 250 pound machine out of the back of a pickup with no ramps, give him $450 cash and "hope" it runs fine. His suggestion - give me $250; use it today (snow pending) and if you want it, give me the rest. If not, he'll pick it up and give me the money back. Hoping to give it a spin a little later today. Right now we have about 3 inches of wet snow - 

Any thoughts/suggestions?


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

My thoughts are to add a fair amount of fuel injector cleaner (10%) to the gas and run it for this storm. Check the spark plug, just to be sure it is fairly clean and in good shape. Also, see what the oil looks like (clean, dirty, brown, gray, etc)

Often the carburetor gets a bit clogged and the engine will either 'surge' or run rough. The fuel injector cleaner added to the gas should help clean things up. Maybe post a video of it running at idle, etc.

If it throws snow well, then you may be able to deal with any idling issues.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Thanks Ted. The oil was just changed (at least that's how it looks). I'll pull the plug and look at it today too. Can I use any brand of injector cleaner (like a Techron?) Am I right in thinking I should hold off trying to clear until I've got close to 5/6" to blow off?


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

duxdweller said:


> Anyway, I told him I wasn't thrilled with the idle and therefore wasn't so hot on unloading a 250 pound machine out of the back of a pickup with no ramps, give him $450 cash and "hope" it runs fine. His suggestion - give me $250; use it today (snow pending) and if you want it, give me the rest. If not, he'll pick it up and give me the money back. Hoping to give it a spin a little later today. Right now we have about 3 inches of wet snow -
> 
> Any thoughts/suggestions?



Wow, a demo period! That's awesome.

This should be a good storm to try it out in. I'm in CT right now with about 8"-10" of heavy snow on the ground with snow, sleet, and rain, on the way. You should be getting about the same as me when all is said and done. If it does well in this storm, then it might be good to go.

I don't know much about the rough idle, but I bet that can be taken care of with a good carb cleaning.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

that price is a little steep IMHO. 

after running, inspecting and posting some good pics on SBF.com, you'll have more ammo for negotiating the difference. 

rough "idle" you mean high-speed / no-load, it's usually the idle circuit. if that's a fixed jet carb, you can often remedy in a pinch by simply unscrewing the jet and cleaning it.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I like the demo idea. Proves that he is an honest man. On the other hand, if you aren't, tell him you didn't like it, then wait a couple of weeks, after snow season, and buy it off of him, or somebody else's for $100-200 less. 

Or, if you sort of like it, offer him $100 less, and plan on spending $15 for a Chinese carb - worst case.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

So we have rain now on top of the 3/4 inches of snow - with a forecast of more rain! Looks like the "blizzard" will miss us - and my chance to really work this machine out. I may take it out and see if it can remove the slushy initial layer as a "test." This wet, heavy **** won't be pleasant if it freezes.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

duxdweller said:


> So we have rain now on top of the 3/4 inches of snow - with a forecast of more rain! Looks like the "blizzard" will miss us - and my chance to really work this machine out. I may take it out and see if it can remove the slushy initial layer as a "test." This wet, heavy **** won't be pleasant if it freezes.


Just be aware than a thin layer of slush is *not* a good test of how a snowblower performs! Most 2-stage snowblowers are horrible with slush, they just arent designed for it..most will just dribble it out and barely throw it at all...while the exact same machine could throw 12" of "normal" snow 25 feet..

If it does throw slush well, then you have a winner! But if it doesnt..well..that doesnt really tell you anything at all about how it will work in regular snow.

Scot


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Yeah - now that you say that it makes sense. I can't see how the slush would make it up into the chute at all. That's a little frustrating. Haven't found myself "disappointed" in missing a storm before today!


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

If it's slushy and not throwing week, try going fast. Use a fast ground speed to help keep the bucket & impeller fed. With enough slush, it may actually have more luck throwing it.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Well - looks like this puppy is going back! Took it out to see about clearing some of the muck at the EOD. It's wet - not frozen. Impeller doesn't have the muscle to move it (probably 6" of slush) - augers stopped turning too. May make a good snow-plow for someone but with this engine I wouldn't expect it to stop spinning in that!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

duxdweller said:


> Well - looks like this puppy is going back! Took it out to see about clearing some of the muck at the EOD. It's wet - not frozen. Impeller doesn't have the muscle to move it (probably 6" of slush) - augers stopped turning too. May make a good snow-plow for someone but with this engine I wouldn't expect it to stop spinning in that!


is the engine bogging down? if not, could just need a new belt or a belt adjustment.

If it's the engine bogging down, may be losing compression... more times than not, it's a valve (usually exhaust) not closing completely... or a head gasket. both relatively straightforward fixes depending on your mechanical abilities.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Engine is unaffected - so maybe it is belts. Seems like this thing needs a major tune-up/once over. Seller has offered to let me keep it for $250 all in. I'm pretty mechanical (work on my cars - oil, brakes, shocks, etc). Assuming the engine is not spent, what would be the "major" things that would go wrong and add up to $$?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Pull the belt cover off and have a looksee in there. if it has been sitting for a while the belts are more than likely toast.*


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

does the impeller (2nd stage) stop spinning as well?

Yes: probably just the auger belt.

No: things could get more expensive... like if it's something in the auger gear box...if you're lucky it's the "shear pins". (quotations because Toros don't have "bloody shear pins"...right Todd? ) 

Inspect the "shear pins" anyway... take them out and see if the augers are frozen to the inner shafts.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

classiccat said:


> does the impeller (2nd stage) stop spinning as well?
> 
> Yes: probably just the auger belt.
> 
> ...


Should have no BLOODY shear pins in it. unless some1 put them in there, BROTHER CC.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Nothing spinning at all. Must be the belt. Going to investigate closer this weekend (warmer in the garage hopefully). I assume the belt replacement is easy (like a fan belt for the car? Losen a tensioner of some sort and replace?)


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

duxdweller said:


> Nothing spinning at all. Must be the belt. Going to investigate closer this weekend (warmer in the garage hopefully). I assume the belt replacement is easy (like a fan belt for the car? Losen a tensioner of some sort and replace?)


Yep - sort of. You may have to split the front and rear half of the blower, but pretty self explanatory - or, I'm sure you can find a video on YouTube.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I'd keep it for $250 . . . belts are about $10 and a carb cleaner is a few $. If it worked well, then it would probably be worth $350-400 considering the auger wear.


If the seller is willing to let it go for the $250 paid, then he must know the machine needs some attention. I'm also thinking the seller will be reluctant to return the $250, take the machine back, and start over.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Hey Ted. Yeah - he had no real interest in coming back and trying to lift that 250 pound beast back into his pickup - so he's fine taking $250. I figure that with spring coming this would be a decent/easy project to clean it up, clean the carb and overall fix it up. Not sure you can get anything close to this machine for $250 and a weekend of tinkering.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

For $250 it's worth tinkering with. Once you get the bugs out i think you will like it. I can tell first had i really like my toro 926 oxe.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I'll be honest, the worn auger housing, and augers, discussion made me nervous. But at $250, if it mainly needs a belt and a carb cleaning, that sounds like a pretty good deal to me. It's newer than any machine I've owned, with the speedy chute control. I don't know if that's the same Toro chute control that I heard a lot of people say they like, but the Toros definitely have a good reputation, and it's a fairly big machine, at 28". 

Hopefully the engine stuff is just a dirty carb. Hecky, you could just swap the carb for $15 or so, and maybe even have an adjustable one. 

Good luck with it!


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Offer him $200, then you'll have it for $225. With cash in your hand, and his snowblower at your house, its a no-brainer for him.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Interesting point. Though I think duxdweller already paid him the $250 when the machine was dropped off, as a deposit against the $450 price. So the seller and buyer already have their cash & machine in-hand at this point. You'd be asking the seller to make another trip over, to hand some money back, which might make him less-inclined to go along with the plan  

But hey, you can always ask.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Yep - he will not return the $25...or will he ? Depends who had the bigger balz before backing down.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Where are we getting the $25 ???


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

tpenfield said:


> Where are we getting the $25 ???


From the seller's pocket. He already paid $250 "deposit" for it, and I am speculating that he may be able to get it for $225 - just a hunch - since there are problems with it, and it is nearing the end of snow blowing season...hopefully !


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

RIT333 said:


> From the seller's pocket. He already paid $250 "deposit" for it, and I am speculating that he may be able to get it for $225 - just a hunch - since there are problems with it, and it is nearing the end of snow blowing season...hopefully !


Oh, OK . . . probably current possession of machine and money will prevail. . . that would be my expectation.


I'm sure @duxdweller will let us know.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

I plan to open it up on Saturday and see what the deal is. If it looks as simple as belts and even a new carb, I think I'll be fine just telling him to keep the $250. It's a half hour drive for one of us to exchange any money - and honestly, I think from everyone here it's s pretty good price. I'll be pretty psyched to fire this thing up next winter. Had only a couple of storms this year, but they were back-breakers. I can actually see myself doing the neighbor's drive as well as my own in pretty short order with this.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Keep us posted on what you find


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

that is a good price...regardless. if it's just a belt/adjustment, you stole it.


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

So I opened it up. The Auger Belt was extremely loose, worn and cracked. Replaced that (and the drive belt while I was in there). Gears needed grease (mouse nest inside the compartment made a good mess). Carburetor is leaking gas (which is, I assume why it's not running very well). I replaced the plug, threw in some injector cleaner and ran it for a half hour - still doesn't idle down slow without stalling. I think I'll order up a carb and throw it on. With the new belts it goes well and the auger/impeller spin beautifully. Any opinions on the carb? Should I get the OEM Tecumseh or are the amazon $30 ones ok?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

duxdweller said:


> So I opened it up. The Auger Belt was extremely loose, worn and cracked. Replaced that (and the drive belt while I was in there). Gears needed grease (mouse nest inside the compartment made a good mess). Carburetor is leaking gas (which is, I assume why it's not running very well). I replaced the plug, threw in some injector cleaner and ran it for a half hour - still doesn't idle down slow without stalling. I think I'll order up a carb and throw it on. With the new belts it goes well and the auger/impeller spin beautifully. Any opinions on the carb? Should I get the OEM Tecumseh or are the amazon $30 ones ok?


good deal on the Auger!

stay away from using injector cleaner. I've worked in quite a few tecs and never had to replace the carb; They're very simple carbs to clean/rebuild & rebuild kits are inexpensive...10-$15. There are a GAGILLION videos on Youtube... Donyboy73 alone probably has 3 or 4!

If you're going to go the new carb route, alot of guys seem to have success with the cheap replacements.

Be sure to get a new intake gasket regardless.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

The carb leaking gas would be a good indication that the float and/or float valve inside the carb is no good. Rebuild at a minimum, but often easier/cheaper to just get a new carb.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

tpenfield said:


> The carb leaking gas would be a good indication that the float and/or float valve inside the carb is no good. Rebuild at a minimum, but often easier/cheaper to just get a new carb.


Agree in the float valve leaking, but it could be as simple as some dirt in the needle valve seat. I have had good luck just opening up the carb, and then spraying with carb cleaner. Not sure why you recommend against using carb (injector) cleaner. Care to explain ?


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I use carb/injector cleaner a fair amount on all my engines that have a seasonal layup. @classiccat mentioned staying away from it. Not sure why :icon_scratch:

I've also used starting fluid to clean out a gummed up fuel bowl and the main jet, etc. That seems to work even better, not sure if it is bad on some of the rubber/plastic parts within the carb. . .


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

RIT333 said:


> Agree in the float valve leaking, but it could be as simple as some dirt in the needle valve seat. I have had good luck just opening up the carb, and then spraying with carb cleaner. Not sure why you recommend against using carb (injector) cleaner. Care to explain ?





tpenfield said:


> I use carb/injector cleaner a fair amount on all my engines that have a seasonal layup. @classiccat mentioned staying away from it. Not sure why :icon_scratch:
> 
> I've also used starting fluid to clean out a gummed up fuel bowl and the main jet, etc. That seems to work even better, not sure if it is bad on some of the rubber/plastic parts within the carb. . .


the OP made no mention of opening-up the carb. By "throwing in" injector cleaner, I read it that the OP was spraying it into the intake &/or cylinder.

you can use carb cleaner to clean a carb body/components :laugh:


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## duxdweller (Jan 14, 2017)

Just to clear up the "carb cleaner/injector cleaner" use: I put some gumout in the fuel tank. Planning to take the carb off and clean it at some point this week (garage isn't heated - so I'd prefer a warm day!) Thanks again for all of your guidance and input. Great forum here!


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