# Ariens 10,000 and 924000 series strength between HP models??



## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

I've been reading a lot on the different models out there and I'm looking at getting a 10,000 series or the 924000 series.

Is there a difference in the rest of the machine (not the engine) between the different HP models in either series. I see that over the span of each series that there are changes, but that seems to be simply updated designs etc. I'm more concerned with any integral changes to strength between the different HP models in these two series. A yes/no is sufficient unless anyone knows specific information.

Thank you for any input or information.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

10000 Series Machines with the Locking Differential are Excellent High Quality Machines that do Not have Gearbox Issues. The 24" Machines have a Great "Feel" to them. My Personal Machine is a Repowered 1965 24" with Tall Chute and Impeller Seal. Works Great and Throws it Far. Highly Recommended.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Are there any functional features on the 924000 series that are not available on the 10,000 series? 

Do you know about the strength of the machines between the difference HP models though? I do want to find one with a locking diff.

Does the locking/unlocking diff effect the use of any attachments?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

The basic difference is the 10,000 series was a direct drive impeller (like mechanical touching of parts) whereas the 924 series used a second belt to drive the auger/impeller. Depending on years some early models could and would have the ability to go on their own without operator presence, so there can be some safety concerns. I don't think anybody familiar with these machines would say a 7hp is less "strong" than a 12hp, mechanically. They can and will accept much higher power plants. The non-differential models are harder to turn and use without a doubt. If there is a common weak link it's likely the weight of the entire blower can cause axle bearing/bushing wear. Personally I think they all have too low of handlebars. That said I run a '79 slightly modified 924 series I wouldn't sell for any price right now and it doesn't have a differential. It's bear to move around and turns like an aging Aunt in a mall parking lot, but straight line it throws snow like crazy.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Thank you very much for that information. 

Do all the models in the 10,000 series have the same functionality up at the handle bars or were there additional options there as well?

I know some came with headlights and electric start. Any other standout features that wouldn't be on all models?

Does having a differential model change the ability of it to accept "trac-team" attachments?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Trac team was year specific. Have you ever seen Moderator Scot's site? He has compiled a great number of Ariens pdf's and info:The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Yes, I've read nearly every word on his site regarding the ariens snowblowers. 

I'm curious if the locking diff option effects the use of the attachments at all?

I know some came with headlights, diff option, and electric start. Any other standout features that wouldn't be on all models in the 10,000 series?


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

bump.

Anyone know anything on these Qs:

I'm curious if the locking diff option effects the use of the attachments at all?

I know some came with headlights, diff option, and electric start. Any other standout features that wouldn't be on all models in the 10,000 series?


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

live4soccer7 said:


> bump.
> 
> Anyone know anything on these Qs:
> 
> ...


The locking differential has no effect on the use of attachments. The differential axle and locked axle are direct swaps on the standard tractor and have no effect on the two mounting points for the blower housing/attachments. I would imagine the attachments only work on 10,000 series machines due to the change from direct drive to belt drive when the 924000 rolled around. 

Headlights are hard to come by with the older machines. I believe they were mostly an option on some of the rarer 32" models. You'd have to see a bigger tecumseh with an alternator for that.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

One thing I'm surprised hasn't been mentioned on the 924 series is it has a much safer wheel-drive-control scheme.

If you're familiar with the term "deadman control", that's what the 924 and later machines have... if you let go of the wheel "clutch" lever, the machine stops.

The 10,000 and earlier series are exactly the opposite. You squeeze the lever to stop the machine, and when you let go it moves. Which is fine 99% of the time but if you slip and fall on a patch of ice or have a heart attack or something and let go of the handle, the machine will take off and start consuming everything in its path.

The newer machines are also safer in that the auger drive works the same way... you squeeze a handle to engage it, and when you let go it disengages. On the older ones there's a lever down by the chute for that function, and once you put it in the engaged position it stays there.

As others have said, some of the things you mentioned like headlights and lockable diff are options, and were available on both series. The same applies to electric start, but that's more a feature of the engine so if the engine has been replaced, the presence of a starter may not match what's expected for the model.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Stang said:


> The locking differential has no effect on the use of attachments. The differential axle and locked axle are direct swaps on the standard tractor and have no effect on the two mounting points for the blower housing/attachments. I would imagine the attachments only work on 10,000 series machines due to the change from direct drive to belt drive when the 924000 rolled around.


well..its true that the locking differential has no effect on the *attachment* of attachments, but it has a huge effect on the use of attachments. The mower attachment for example, you would only want to use on a machine with a differential, because you would absolutely need the differential if using the unit as a lawn mower. Overall, im sure the Track-Team line was meant to be used only with machines with a differential, even if, in theory, they will still attach to non-differential tractors.

And there are some, a few, known attachments for the earlier (mid to late 1970's) 924000 series, although the attachment concept did peak with the 10,000 series.



ELaw said:


> One thing I'm surprised hasn't been mentioned on the 924 series is it has a much safer wheel-drive-control scheme.
> 
> If you're familiar with the term "deadman control", that's what the 924 and later machines have... if you let go of the wheel "clutch" lever, the machine stops.
> 
> The 10,000 and earlier series are exactly the opposite. You squeeze the lever to stop the machine, and when you let go it moves.


The "dead-man" control system began in 1973, and was used on the last two model years of the 10,000 series, 1973 and 1974.

Scot


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Thanks for the replies everyone! I haven't checked the thread for a week or two. I found a 910008 Model for $50  It isn't rusted up and has LOTS of paint on the augers and inside the bucket. Tells me that the machine was used very little, respectively given its age. The chrome handle bars are also not pitted and are in very good condition. It has an electric start. I do need to do some work on the engine to get it running. It it has to 24" snow blower attachment and has the electric start - needs a new switch. It has the diff option too. I'm not sure if it was fit with the lighting stuff or it is was removed. I need to look at it closer tonight.

I need to go through it and clean it up a little, change the oil, gear box oil, grease it, clean carb, spark plug and probably a new igniter or spark plug wire. 

I was going to go with the J8C plug unless anyone recommends anything different. 
Some gear oil - 90W for the gear box
5-30 Synthetic for the engine that I have sitting around
Marine Grease for the grease fittings etc...

I'm going to pull the sheer pins and make sure everything isn't froze together, doesn't seem like it, but that way I can get some grease "flowing" in there to keep that from happening.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

live4soccer7 said:


> Thanks for the replies everyone! I haven't checked the thread for a week or two. I found a 910008 Model for $50  It isn't rusted up and has LOTS of paint on the augers and inside the bucket. Tells me that the machine was used very little, respectively given its age. The chrome handle bars are also not pitted and are in very good condition. It has an electric start. I do need to do some work on the engine to get it running. It it has to 24" snow blower attachment and has the electric start - needs a new switch. It has the diff option too. I'm not sure if it was fit with the lighting stuff or it is was removed. I need to look at it closer tonight.
> 
> I need to go through it and clean it up a little, change the oil, gear box oil, grease it, clean carb, spark plug and probably a new igniter or spark plug wire.
> 
> ...


GL4 on the gear lube, or use genuine Ariens lube. GL5 has sulfur additives that eat the soft bronze/brass metals.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

scrappy said:


> GL4 on the gear lube, or use genuine Ariens lube. GL5 has sulfur additives that eat the soft bronze/brass metals.


GL4 *might* be fine, (I actually have no idea what GL4 is, never heard of it)
But when in doubt, I always go with what the owners manual says..I have researched this issue before:

http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/ariens/Page11.html#question9

And the owners manual for model 910008:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/STOI-72.pdf
says the same thing I found out for my 1971 Ariens, which is: "MP90 gear lubricant."
Ariens part number 00006000, available from an Ariens dealer.

I haven't yet found out if _any_ "90 weight gear oil" from any manufacturer is also the same stuff, but I suspect it is.

Scot


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

sscotsman said:


> GL4 *might* be fine, (I actually have no idea what GL4 is, never heard of it)
> But when in doubt, I always go with what the owners manual says..I have researched this issue before:
> 
> The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.
> ...


I recall we had a few posts about this before. here is some more info.

Agree the best bet is the Ariens fluid.

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

I'd imagine 90 weight GL4 would suffice. It is the same thing with most manual transmissions (at least those from 15-20 yrs ago), you want to use GL4 and nothing with GL5 specs because it effects the syncros/brass. I've got some GL4 and will likely put that in there.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

live4soccer7 said:


> I'd imagine 90 weight GL4 would suffice. It is the same thing with most manual transmissions (at least those from 15-20 yrs ago), you want to use GL4 and nothing with GL5 specs because it effects the syncros/brass. I've got some GL4 and will likely put that in there.


Yeah.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Does anyone have a picture of the carb area with and without the metal cover on it? I think I'm missing a thing or two and I know the primer can't be right because there is only a spring loaded primer (black knob) and nothing really on the other side. 

I flushed the oil in the crank case, put in a new J8C plug that's gapped right, cleaned the fuel tank (inside and out), the gearbox was dry, so I flushed that many times to get buildup out of there and then put some GL4 in there once I was done with that. It does seem the gasket is leaking, but that is a minimal issue right now. I was able to shine a light in the gear box to check the mini ring gear and it looked pretty good considering it didn't have any oil in it. I'm hoping it was only like that because it was sitting for a while and wasn't actually used that way, but time will tell. If I can get it running then I'll pull it apart and re-seal the gearbox with some toyota transaxle sealant I have. I've used that stuff on my tcases and transmission without fail. It is some very good stuff. Considering they are using the same oil and similar purpose, it'll work great.

I attempted to remove the shear pins, however they fell quite seized and didn't want to get them stuck in there for good so I left them for now until I can get it started. I'll get the bar greased up tomorrow.

I also replaced the fuel line, so fuel delivery will be good and no leaks.

I'm going to pull the carb tomorrow and give it a thorough cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner. I'll pull the needles and all that jazz to make sure everything gets sufficiently cleaned and get the holes in the high idle screw, assuming it is similar to the newer models.

I'm also going to fix the electric start switch so I don't throw out my back and shoulders attempting to start this thing with a thousand pulls. I would be blown away if it fired right up. I'd be curious to see what the stock electric start switch and mounting looks like too, if anyone has pics.



Anything else you guys can think of before I attempt to fire this thing up? Given what I've seen, I wouldn't be surprised if the engine needed a rehaul. I have not tested compression or done a leakdown test, figured I'll see how much it smokes when it finally starts. haha. The engine does turn over smoothly, so that is good news. I think someone simply deferred maintenance on this thing for quite a while.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

The primer is simply a plate to choke of the carb while cranking or pulling the cord. It is not a squirter bulb. On my dad's '67 we removed it because it always starts on 1 or 2 pulls with just the choke closed. Does this one have points/condenser or electronic ignition? If points you should pop a new set in and set the timing.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

scrappy said:


> The primer is simply a plate to choke of the carb while cranking or pulling the cord. It is not a squirter bulb. On my dad's '67 we removed it because it always starts on 1 or 2 pulls with just the choke closed. Does this one have points/condenser or electronic ignition? If points you should pop a new set in and set the timing.


Thanks for clarifying that. 

I'm not quite sure what kind of ignition it has. I haven't pulled it apart that far. I see the spark plug wire goes back near the pull start area and there are some shrouds there. I'll definitely replacing whatever it is. The spark plug wire has definitely seen better days. If I can see some spark when pulling the plug and cranking it over then I'll leave it until I get it running and then replace it. Same goes for quite a few things. haha. I'm sure I'll come up with a laundry list of parts to replace If I get it running well. It is a very cool machine, IMO. If it I do get it running, it'll get a very thorough cleaning and some paint. If I don't then It'll get running at a later date with an engine rebuild or completely new power plant.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

It sounds likely you have the points-and-condenser type magneto.

The electronic ones are mounted outside the flywheel, and have a relatively short plug wire that comes out the top of the blower housing.

The older ones are an assembly with the points and condenser, and the whole assembly resides under the flywheel - as in, you have to remove the FW to access it.

The older ones also have adjustable timing... the mounting holes are slotted and you can rotate it a bit. So if that's what you have, mark its location before you remove it, so you can put it back in the same position.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Thank you very much for that information. I'd probably re-time it once I got a new one anyways. If I can find the timing info in the service manuals, that is.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

live4soccer7 said:


> Thank you very much for that information. I'd probably re-time it once I got a new one anyways. If I can find the timing info in the service manuals, that is.


Here is most anything you will ever need to know.

If you have a mag ignition, the spark plug wire is part of the coil.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Thanks! I'll definitely be using that. I've been collecting all the documents in a folder that I can find that pertain to the snowblower.

I was able to remove the shear pins tonight and I could free up one side of the auger, however the other side is froze pretty good. It seems that the zerk fittings are non functional and need to be replaced. They simply won't accept grease. Even on the side that I was able to free up and with some penetrating oil I can now spin that side several times around with one pull of the auger. Are they a thread in zerk fitting or something that's pressed in? They don't have a hex on them for removal.

I was able to tidy up the rest of what I wanted to before I attempted to start it tonight and that included getting a switch hooked up for the electric start. Am I glad the electric start worked or what!!! It sounded good when turning over, there was fuel and I tried the choke and "primer" in all positions and could not get it to fire. I pulled the plug and then attached the plug wire to it and tried to turn it over to see if I could see any spark at all and there was nothing visible. I'm going to have to assume that there is no spark to the thing. Looks like I'll be disassembling the shroud to get to the igniter to either see if I can clean it to try and get it to fire in a preliminary status until doing a more full blow overhaul or simply replace it. It really sounds and looks like it will fire once I get that fixed. There was PLENTY of fuel getting to it and I pulled the bowl and cleaned all the carb stuff. 

The carb DEFINITELY needs a srebuild kit. I was not able to get the carb off. The studs were just spinning when I tried to pull the nuts off. I left it at that and just pulled the bowl and cleaned all that and the low/high needles etc... I did blow some compressed air through the fuel inlet and where the high/low needles go, so it should be good to go to at least get running.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

live4soccer7 said:


> I was not able to get the carb off. The studs were just spinning when I tried to pull the nuts off.


What HP is the engine?

If the "intake manifold" is just a piece of aluminum about 1/2" thick, those studs aren't studs at all... they're Philips-head screws that go in from the back. Sometimes you can jam a screwdriver in behind them to keep them from turning but the best bet is to unscrew the manifold from the block. Then you'll have easy access to the screws holding the carb if you need it.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Zerks are pressed in type.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

ELaw said:


> What HP is the engine?
> 
> If the "intake manifold" is just a piece of aluminum about 1/2" thick, those studs aren't studs at all... they're Philips-head screws that go in from the back. Sometimes you can jam a screwdriver in behind them to keep them from turning but the best bet is to unscrew the manifold from the block. Then you'll have easy access to the screws holding the carb if you need it.


Interesting. Sounds like a terrible design. haha. It is the 7HP engine: H70-130067A


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

scrappy said:


> Zerks are pressed in type.


Thank you for that information! I am missing one of the fittings. I've got to pull the whole assembly apart anyways to re-seal the gear box. I'll look at replacing them at that time.

I've got to get some spark to the engine first. Then I must tear apart the starter as sometimes it wants to work and sometimes it doesn't. It is not the wiring, at least externally.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Is there an on/off switch on these things? I don't see a key or anything like that, but again I'm sure that mine might be missing a couple things. I was wondering how to actually kill this machine since I didn't see one. This would be an easy troubleshoot as to why there is no spark before tearing into the magneto igniter system.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

I think on that engine, when the throttle is moved to its lowest (slowest) position, one of the levers on the mechanism above the carb hits a contact that grounds the magneto and stops the engine.

If you remove the cover over the carb it should be the only wire you see in that area.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

ELaw said:


> I think on that engine, when the throttle is moved to its lowest (slowest) position, one of the levers on the mechanism above the carb hits a contact that grounds the magneto and stops the engine.
> 
> If you remove the cover over the carb it should be the only wire you see in that area.


Aha! I don't know how I overlooked that little wire tucked away in there. That did the trick! It fired up. 

It did die after about 5-10 minutes and I'm not able to get it started again. It ran long enough to try out all the features. Everything works. The locking/unlocking diff, augers, different speeds, obviously engine and attachment engagements. 

When it died it just kind slowly died out of nowhere. It seemed it was running strong.The engine still turns over, but no combustion. For those with a little more experience with working on these, any red flag items here to look at as far as to why it stopped and isn't wanting to start again?

I'm going to give it another shot once it fully cools down to see if that has anything to do with it.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

put a spoon full of fuel in the spark plug hole and see if it makes a try to start, sounds like it ran out of fuel, which doesnt always mean an empty tank.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

nwcove said:


> put a spoon full of fuel in the spark plug hole and see if it makes a try to start, sounds like it ran out of fuel, which doesnt always mean an empty tank.


Thanks. I'll give it a shot. My best guess is that the orings and seals in the carb are all completely shot and as things heated up something either broke apart and lodged in the a small hole or the inadequate seals are preventing fuel delivery. I would agree, it sounded as it if ran out of fuel. The tank is FULL and the shutoff is open. There is fuel getting TO the carb.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

What online dealer do you guys use for ordering OEM parts? I always try to use oem parts when necessary unless the price is absolutely outrageous and even then it can depend on what kind of part it is.


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

I have yet to see a standard 10000 series with a headlight. Another thing many people do not realize is the 10000 series with differentials are for attachments only. The differential is supposed to remain locked during snow removal. Locked means power is being applied equally to both wheels. That is in essence how a snowblower is supposed to operate. That is why if you did not plan on purchasing attachment's such as a lawnmower for your Ariens they sold the units without the differential. The differential is there to be unlocked when you are mowing a lawn so you can turn the tractor without tearing up the lawn. Same thing with some of the other attachment's you unlock it for ease of moving and when you go to put it in storage. When you are using the machine to throw snow the differential is supposed to remain locked at all time's. I have a manual for mine and it actually specifies that the differential is to remain locked during snow removal. When using the tractor with the lawn attachment or leaf attachment you then unlock the differential so the machine can turn in grass, with ease and so it won't tear up the lawn. You don't want to be throwing snow with the differential unlocked, then only one wheel is turning, it makes getting it thru snow twice as hard and when you reach the snowbank at the end of the driveway that the plow made you would be there all day trying to get thru that with the differential unlocked and power applied only to one wheel. The only time I could see unlocking the differential on the snowblower is if you had to keep making wide turns or quick turns around a corner, otherwise it should be locked. But honestly it's a pain to lock and unlock that thing on the hub. But in fact while using the machine while throwing snow the differential is really supposed to be locked, it explains it in the manual and I have been using that machine as well as my 2002 Snapper the same way over 15 years. In fact my Snapper which is also a heavy duty snow thrower doesn't even have a differential. You can put it in free wheel mode to move it around when going to store it with the engine off, but if you try to make it move with the engine on it wont move in freewheel you have to stick the pin back thru the wheel hub and the axle which applies power to both wheels to move. If your only removing snow for one driveway it isn't going to bother you, I use my machines commercially. Last winter when that huge blizzard hit the east coast (N.J.), we were out there 3 days straight. I was sore the first night, sore the second night, by the time I got to the third day I could not feel anymore pain, I felt like I was the hulk, that will get you in shape really fast. I'm sure there might be a few people out there that may disagree with me but it is indeed in my 1971 Ariens operator's manual. The differential remains locked for snow removal and you are really only supposed to unlock it when you are going to store the machine or use it as a mower or leaf vacuum, etc. That's why now they have machines with triggers on the handle to unlock it when your about to turn or the newer Ariens with auto turn which unlocks automatically when you turn, but I hear some people complain the machine doesn't stay completely straight with auto turn, before they had that you had to use the machine locked at all time's. I grew up using the machines like that so it doesn't bother me, it wouldn't feel right any other way. I wouldn't mind having the triggers on the handles to unlock it when turning but I wouldn't want auto turn, I want my machine to go straight, without it pulling to one side or the other a complaint with auto turn.


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

The last two years of production of the 10000 series, 1973 and 1974 had the upgraded safety features including deadman. If you let go of the handle the machine stopped moving, you had to squeeze the handle down to go and the auger lever was extended up by the handlebars. The auger would still move unless you turned the entire handle down, but the machine stopped moving as soon as you let go of the handle versus squeezing it up to stop. I have yet to ever see a standard headlight on a 10000 series from the factory. Also the differential was an option to add your attachments such as the lawnmower. If you tried to use the lawnmower without a differential or with it still locked it would tear your lawn up real good every time you went to turn. The differential is supposed to remain locked when using it in snow, power applied to both wheels. That's why if you did not plan on using it with attachments they sold the snow blower with no differential. I have a 1971 with my manual it explains that clearly in their. A lot of people don't realize that.


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

Those old H70 engines were a great design and very easy to work on in fact they were some of Tecumseh's finest engines, so many still running 45+ years later. Sounds like you need to clean your points on your mageto, you may need a new condensor, those are relatively easy and cheap to fix. If you need a completely different magneto, I see them selling a lot on ebay for 50 or less. I know I've let 2 or 3 go, you should start by cleaning the points. There's no key, no kill switch, the throttle cable from the handlebar to the carb linkage on the engine is the kill switch turn the lever on the throttle cable to stop. That will shut off the engine.


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

It's going to be very hard to find certain OEM parts for that engine and machine. A lot of the parts have been discontinued and now are being made aftermarket by other company's. A lot of parts still are not being made at all. Usually if the engine dies after it has warmed up it's a sign of a bad coil. You would want to change that first to see. Again you won't find a coil from then new and if you do it will cost you an arm and a leg but a lot of good used coils are being sold on ebay for about $50. You may also want to give it a new spark plug. Check and try the least expensive thing's first.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Thank you for the information. I would like to acquire some attachments, if they can be found that is. 

I started it up yesterday after it cooled down and it ran better than the first time. I think it is simply due to it not have been run for such a long time. I ended up shutting it down that time because I was done "checking it out" and needed to get going.


Any tips for unfreezing an auger? I have one side free. I've been using penetrating oil, even a heat gun to heat the bar. The gun puts out 1150F. I've applied a decent amount of force. I've considered slowly engaging the auger and letting it free itself under its own power, however that's a bit risky of breaking other things and probably not worth it in my opinion. 


The question still remains, is there a good online dealer/site that sells truly OEM parts? I always like to make lists of what I can get from where and then purchase all at once from OEM and then aftermarket what can't be had from OEM.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Trac Team Attachments are out there if you look for them. They are of very Good Quality. Here's a mower attachment for $100 I saw today.
ARIENS MOWER ATTACHMENT


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> Trac Team Attachments are out there if you look for them. They are of very Good Quality. Here's a mower attachment for $100 I saw today.
> ARIENS MOWER ATTACHMENT


Yes, I'm on the lookout for any attachments. I think they could be quite useful really. Maybe not all of them, but a good number of them. I know I could use them on the property I have. The hard part is finding them somewhat locally.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Does anyone know if it is an easy bolt on task to add a stator/alternator to these things to run lights etc...? If so, what else is needed with the stator/alternator?


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## Loco-diablo (Feb 12, 2015)

live4soccer7 said:


> The question still remains, is there a good online dealer/site that sells truly OEM parts? I always like to make lists of what I can get from where and then purchase all at once from OEM and then aftermarket what can't be had from OEM.



I use jacks small engine for most online parts. They have a knowledgeable staff and stock many many parts.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

I stumbled across that site and I think I may be ordering from there. Seems they offer tecumseh OEM parts as well.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Does anyone know what stator goes on these? Part number or anything like that. It's for the 10,000 series Tecumseh 7HP.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I could be wrong, but I believe you need an 8hp or larger (L-Head) engine for an alternator. Those Alternators are incorporated into the ignition coil, and the flywheel has more magnets. Here's a Pic. 
[url=http


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Interesting. Thank you for that information. I'll dig a little deeper and see what I can find.


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## MassSnowblower (Oct 14, 2014)

live4soccer7 said:


> Yes, I'm on the lookout for any attachments. I think they could be quite useful really. Maybe not all of them, but a good number of them. I know I could use them on the property I have. The hard part is finding them somewhat locally.


 I have been collecting trac team attachments for a couple years now. I own the leaf vac, chipper, reel mower, and the rotary mower attachments. I'm still on the lookout for the leaf shredder and the brush attachment.


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## MassSnowblower (Oct 14, 2014)

I wanted to give my 2 cents on the difference of the 10,000 series vs the 924 series. Currently I have 6 10,000 series units and I couldn't be happier with them they all have the 7hp. I have most of the Trac team attachments and the 7hp has never felt underpowered. I have 1 1978 924 series snowblower and I tried it with our last snowstorm a couple days ago. It worked great but it didn't have the rugged feeling that my 1970 10,000 that ive been using to snowblow for the last 9 years. So I parked the 924 and will continue to use a 10,000 series to blow snow. 924 series has too many safety systems on it for me I think.


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## MassSnowblower (Oct 14, 2014)

My 924 series with rotary mower attachment


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

interesting... did not realize that the trac team mower fits the 924 series. i'll have to try it out next summer.


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## MassSnowblower (Oct 14, 2014)

Here is my Vac attached to a 10,000 series


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

jtclays said:


> Personally I think they all have too low of handlebars.


Randomly today I noticed that my 924 series' handlebars are about an inch higher than my 10000 series. Still low, I agree, but interesting that they raised it slightly it appears. Both of my machines have the same wheels and tires.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Thanks for all the information. I'm in a repair on the good ol' 10,000 series. I have yet to find any attachments locally, unfortunately. I have the 924 and the 10,000 now. The 10,000 is WAY better. I've used both. I just have to fix the 10,000 now.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

live4soccer7 said:


> Thanks for all the information. I'm in a repair on the good ol' 10,000 series. I have yet to find any attachments locally, unfortunately. I have the 924 and the 10,000 now. The 10,000 is WAY better. I've used both. I just have to fix the 10,000 now.


Just out of curiosity, are you saying the 10,000 is in way better condition, or are you saying that from a design and build quality the 10,000 is way better?

I ask because I have both and I found them to be of identical build quality (same thick steel all around), with the 10,000 having a better gearbox (which I remedied by installing a new cast iron box on my 924 series), and the 924 having much nicer ergonomics (full dashboard) and safety (interlock lever).


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

The Early 924 series uses the same Robust Gearbox as the 10000 series. When they changed the shape of the Bucket, they added the crappy gearbox.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Jackmels said:


> The Early 924 series uses the same Robust Gearbox as the 10000 series. When they changed the shape of the Bucket, they added the crappy gearbox.


Oops. Good catch. Yes, mine is a 1979 model, the first year they switched to the "modern" bucket shape (maintaining the old orange/white color scheme), but also the aluminum gear box came with it. 

Everything else seems on this 924 series to be equally heavy-duty to the 10000 series. I solved the gear box issue by replacing it with a new cast iron unit. Should be good for another 40 years!

The later 924 series (1990s?) may be of lesser quality, but I have not worked on or owned these machines to confirm nor deny this.


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