# Drive comparison



## roadbum (Jan 25, 2013)

Recently I junked out an MTD 5HP snow blower because the friction disc drive wouldn't work anymore and I got tired of screwing around with it. We had the machine about 8 years, had good luck with it up until a couple years ago. I'm getting ready to buy another machine, but have seen reviews about machines with this friction disc system, talking about the same problems I had with mine, hydrostatic drive was reccommended as the only other option Honda being the main choice here. I always had good luck with Honda (motorcycles) and am prepared to check them out, In two years of horseing around with this crappy friction plate drive I understand all the inherent problems associated with this system. I'd like to hear from those of you with machines with Hydrostatic drive.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Welcome to the forum. There is one more option if you aren't afraid of older machines. At one point some machines had a Tecumseh Peerless gear transmission. Very strong but you won't find them today without buying a used machine and rebuilding it. I prefer these over the friction disc units.

Sorry, can't speak to the hydrostatic drive units as I have not used one.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Friction disks have been used on probably 99% of all snowblowers ever made, over the past 50 years..
there is nothing wrong with them at all if they are well maintained..
(same as anything else)

also, initial build quality is a factor..
(same as anything else)

IMO, the problem with Roadbum's MTD probably has less to do with the Friction disk drive, and more to do with the letters "MTD"! 

Im using a 40 year old Ariens with a friction disk drive..works flawlessly..
I expect it to run another 40 years with few issues..
(the engine will need replacing before the disk drive)

having said that, there is nothing wrong with Hydros either! 
they seem like fine machines..
(Ariens came out with their first Hydro models just this year)

just wanted to point out there is nothing inherently wrong with friction disk drives! 
if anyone is having problems with one, its probably due to one of four issues:

1. Old poorly maintained machine.

2. Newer poorly maintained machine.

3. Well maintained, but old and wearing out. (parts do wear out eventually)
but a friction disk drive (of good initial quality) can probably be made to run virtually forever, with replacement of parts as they wear out..(my machine is 40 years old, and I dont think anything has worn out yet)

4. Low initial build quality, even when new...not all manufacturers build to the same level of quality. (MTD is universally considered to be lower quality that Honda, Ariens or Toro)

The problem is probably *not* due to any inherent flaw in the design of the friction disk concept itself..its "tried and true" if well built, and well maintained.

Scot


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Welcome to SBF roadbum. Glad to have you join us. Sounds like you got some good service out of your MTD.

Yes, Hondas are quality machines, as are other brands. There are others that offer hydro transmissions. One of our other members did a review on one he recently bought. I think this is the one.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/snowblower-reviews/1413-ariens-hydro-pro-track-28-review.html

Have fun and go ahead an poke around on the forums. There's quite a bit to take in, and lots of friendly helpful members.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Ditto to what Scot said.


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## roadbum (Jan 25, 2013)

Thanks sscotsman, you confirmed what I kind of suspected about MTD, paid enough for it at the time (2004) Got real good service out of it for 8 years, then the friction drive started acting up. I replaced the friction wheel and some retainer clips, I took it in to get worked on, nothing seemed to help. We have a long driveway to maintain (I used to plow with an Allis model C tractor) the drive is up a hill so that machine was getting a lot of use. But your comments on MTD Not surprising, Thanks for the info


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

take a look on craigslist and see if there is a nice used airens, honda, or toro ( my favorite  ) for a good price or something you can use the motor off the mtd on


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I'll stick with the disc drive. Never had problems with them. Had an MTD for 17 yrs before having to change out the disc. 40 minute job and right back in service. It got used *alot* too. Now have a 35 yr. old Gilson with same system and it runs/works very well.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

I have a 1983 cub cadet that replaced the original disk on only two years ago. The old disk still pulled this 320lb beast around well but since i was doing a complete rebuild it only made sense to replace it. In my opinion a friction disk systems work fine if they are kept properly adjusted and kept dry, the most common issue them is if snow or water get onto the dive platen, this will cause the friction disk to slip. A properly sealed belt cover is very important in keeping snow/water off the drive platen and friction disk. 

Carl


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

old thread but worth reviving

I have both friction drive and gear drive machines, the gear drive is definitely stronger and more durable, but it's all relative. How much longer does it really have to last, if I'm already 52 years old ? Either will probably outlast me.

It appears one can buy a friction drive machine that is lighter and more nimble, and easier to maneuver and turn around. The old gear drive machines tend to be big and heavy ? from my first impressions, and hard to turn around. When shut off the gear drive is hard to move around even when in neutral, while the friction drive is easier to move around as the disk disengages in neutral and the drive axles seem to freewheel easier. Just my observations but it's brand specific, a Cub Cadet friction drive vs. a Gilson gear drive. A friend has an old Gilson 5HP friction drive, that thing is a real dog, underpowered, too heavy, and it won't budge when shut off in neutral. 

snowblowers are like sports cars or musclecars, it's all about a balance of characteristics. too much cast iron and not enough horsepower is a very unpleasant machine to use and turn. I'd say 8HP is entry level minimum, and preferably 10HP or more. traction is a major factor, all the power and paddles in the world mean nil, if the machine spins on the hill at the top of driveway and gets stuck, and has to be pushed. if the chute clogs easily and stalls the machine, then it's a power issue, i.e. underpowered.

bottom line, if it goes through the deep snow smoothly, and also cuts through the plow pack at the end of driveway where it meets the street with ease, and is easy to turn around to make return passes, and doesn't ever get stuck, it could have chipmunk and string drive and I'd be happy with it. to eat the plow pack where driveway meets the street, HP is the name of the game. With a chute full of slush a big HP motor will just open the governor and churn it out. A small motor will bog, and stall. Cleaning a clogged chute that stalls the machine repeatedly takes all the fun out of using a snowblower.

so it's horsepower, traction, turning capability, weight that are the major factors, IMHO.

intuition tells me, the machine that would do all that the best, would be a hydrostatic drive, but those are exceedingly expensive new.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

greatwhitebuffalo said:


> old thread but worth reviving
> 
> I have both friction drive and gear drive machines, the gear drive is definitely stronger and more durable, but it's all relative. How much longer does it really have to last, if I'm already 52 years old ? Either will probably outlast me.
> 
> ...


Just like sports cars, torque can can only be effectively applied when the traction and weight of the machine, and the mechanical inefficiencies. Weight has to be to balanced with the machines ability to move forward, and still chew through mother natures worst.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

I was addressing the weight and handling, in respect to a heavy machine is very difficult to turn around, pull backwards, etc. It takes a toll on your back and arms. Whereas a light machine can be whipped around much easier with less effort.

The heavier machine will usually have better traction. I say usually, I tried a 5HP Gilson with friction drive, it weighed a ton, and got stuck contantly. The machine was only good on a level grade, or going downhill. It had to be pushed half the time, it weighed a ton but didn't get good traction anyway, the entire machine would just sink into the snow and get stuck.


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