# Synthetic oil



## neparon (Mar 30, 2017)

I have a 10yr old HS520.I have always use conventional 5W30 oil. Should I switch to synthetic oil?


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## old ope mechanic (Feb 16, 2018)

it's really up to you, old machine i would not as syntec has more cleaning additives in it that "MIGHT" start the machine to leak or burn oil,by softening the seals and wiping off sludge from the rings, 
biggest issue is how many hours a year these machines run, personally i don't and never have had a issue with machines as old as 31 years that have countless hundreds of hours on them running normal dyno oil . 
it's your dime sir! as long as it has oil that gets changed every year is what matters


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

I always use full synthetic on all my engines. I've never had a problem switching to full synthetic with any engine. You may need to do a premature change if if the synthetic loosens too much sludge. Keep an eye on it.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

My vote is no. As old ope suggested, I've seen people switch and have new found crank seal leaks. People that love synthetic will say it was going bad anyway:smiley-confused013:. I've had 30+ year old Tecumsehs that didn't know what synthetic was and didn't leak.
I can tell you from personal experience Kohler Commands do not like synthetic, makes them sound like bb's dropped on a metal roof. We run Euro Mobile 1 in my son's E430 because it spec's it, but the rest of the cars and ope get dino and changed on time. I think synthetic can go longer between changes, but you need an oil filter that does too on pressurized systems. Ope changed yearly I'd pick what's easier or available.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Running Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W30 in all my Honda Snow Blowers including the HS520 with zero issues or leaks. I prefer synthetic oil for cold weather starts, but I'm sure conventional oil would serve you just as well.


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## Freddy Ford (Jan 30, 2018)

Because synthetics have better detergents and cleaning ability, they can expose weakened seals and indirectly cause leaks. On an old engine I would not switch because of this, but a 10 year old snowblower is not what I would call an old machine. A 1980's model is old, a 2007-2008 model is not. I think you'll be fine, and synthetics have better seal conditioners for longevity as well. I am not a die-hard synthetic only user. I only use them when it specifically benefits the machine and conditions because modern conventional oils are so good today.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

Switched over to full synthetic in 1982 and never looked back.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I've been running synthetic in my cars and trucks since 1978, oil, trans, differential, brake fluid. All are important to run as synthetic, non any less important. In cold, synthetic is so much thinner, especially the differential. Do a comparison in the dead of winter by leaving dino and synthetic oil outside, then pour. Now think about how thick 85w differential oil is! Wow. This results in increased gas mileage, same with engine oil. The car turns over faster, easier, Less stress on the car's battery.

For a 2 cycle, synthetic is the way to go for better lubrication.

For mowers and blowers, mowers it doesn't matter, it's only a sump. But for snowblowers, it's the thickness of the oil. Synthetic turns over so much easier. If you keep your blower in the garage, doesn't matter. Outside covered or in a shed, turns over easier.

When Mobil 1 became popular in the 70s, there was talk not to put synthetic in a car engine if it had more than 35,000 miles or so. Now they've changed, you can put it in any time. The same detergent ingredients in regular dino oil are the same detergent ingredients in synthetic. I can't see synthetic being anymore highly detergent than regular oil. Synthetic flows better, giving the impression it's thinner, but things roll easier with less friction because the molecules are round like ball bearings, not funny shaped globs.

Whether the low friction coefficient results in increased engine power on a single cylinder, I don't know. I've read and been told 2 cycle engines speed up using synthetic 2 cycle oil.


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

Why do you want to switch? 
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

But if you're running Dino oil you are breaking it. Full synthetic is the only way to go.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Coby7 said:


> But if you're running Dino oil you are breaking it. Full synthetic is the only way to go.


Edit button.......click........back space........wait click up there................back space...........find the useless emoji.......click............wait............copy..........paste:facepalm_zpsdj194qh


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

I have a feeling you didn't like my last post. Let me me set this straight, a lot of people don't change the oil in their machines as often as they should. Synthetic is better in this case. But if you are one of those with ADD and change your oil regularly then DINO oil is fine.


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## ZOMGVTEK (Sep 25, 2014)

Its rare for the engine in a snowblower to get used enough to fail before the useful life of the remainder of the components. This is assuming you occasionally check that it does indeed have a sufficient amount of oil, and it gets changed every few seasons.

The overwhelming majority of failures are due to neglecting any form of maintenance, and running low on oil. Most small engines are splash lubricated, and the oil level is important. You can run quite low on oil in a car, and its generally OK. In a splash lubricated small engine, its practically a death sentence. All engines burn oil. The more wear they have, the more they tend to burn. This isnt that big of a deal, unless you ignore it and let it run low. But of course it depends on use.

Just about any oil is going to work fine for how few hours most residential snowblowers get. If you put hundreds of hours on a season, id swing for a better oil.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Coby7 said:


> But if you're running Dino oil you are breaking it. Full synthetic is the only way to go.


Actually, it's ONE way to go... There are others, such as using properly API spec'd non-synthetic and changing it yearly or every 100 operating hours.

As great minds have said:

"Be wary of men who speak in absolutes..."
“The gods love to toy with people who use absolutes.”
“Historically speaking, just about everything we know to be ‘absolute’ will eventually change due to ‘new findings’.”


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

very interesting topic.

since i change oil every year regardless of use i use regular oil. but i have been using syn in my newer equipment.


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## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

I've been using the cheapest off-brand crap I can find for years. If she blows up, I get a different machine


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Automotive engine oil synthetic, blend, or conventional lack the ideal amounts of zinc and phosphorus with are beneficial for air cooled splash lubricated flat tappet engines. 

If you really wanted to get down to the nitty gritty of it. For the application, A small engine specific oil is better then any full synthetic automotive oil. 

I use genuine Honda power equipment 5w30 in my Honda snowblowers. I spoil these machines. 

All my other 4stroke equipment gets synthetic blend with a splash of zddp. The zddp is more valuable then the synthetics.


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## old ope mechanic (Feb 16, 2018)

100 hours is a big NO_NO! most air cooled splash oiled small engines have in their owner's manual 20 hours or yearly 

IMM it's best to read and comply by the owners manual .


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

old ope mechanic said:


> 100 hours is a big NO_NO! most air cooled splash oiled small engines have in their owner's manual 20 hours or yearly
> 
> IMM it's best to read and comply by the owners manual .


Yes, and for Honda HSS's, it's 20 hours for the break-in oil, and then 100 operating hours or yearly, whichever comes first.


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## old ope mechanic (Feb 16, 2018)

I did say most! kohler is 50 hours , kawasaki is 50 hours, my honda powered power washer is 20 hours , lct is 20 hours, loncin is 20 hours .tech is 20 hours it's up to the operator to read is their owners manual to be sure


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

old ope mechanic said:


> I did say most! kohler is 50 hours , kawasaki is 50 hours, my honda powered power washer is 20 hours , lct is 20 hours, loncin is 20 hours .tech is 20 hours it's up to the operator to read is their owners manual to be sure


Well, this IS the Honda snowblower forum...:wink2:


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

tabora said:


> Well, this IS the Honda snowblower forum...:wink2:


My bad, didn't see this was Honda only. I'm gonna start checking post count too. Lots of questions I shouldn't be involved in.
My bad. 100 hours of blower operation on an oil change, winking right back at you.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

Yeah , Hondas are from a different planet and need Honda oil only. Don't forget to check antifreeze and change brake fluids regularly.


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

Americans have long been conditioned to change their oil unnecessarily frequently. That mindset is not going to die out soon.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Marlow said:


> Americans have long been conditioned to change their oil unnecessarily frequently. That mindset is not going to die out soon.


Agreed, Some still think there car needs a oil change every 3000 miles, Friend got a Toyota carola for his wife, Says oil change every 8000 on dino oil???? OK LOL I use syth in my truck and play it safe every 5000 or so. Never had a issue on the last few vehicles I've driven like this.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i always wondered about the 100 hour standard for honda's. you could go 3-4-5 seasons or more before you got that 100 hours. doesn't make sense to me. i read here on another thread that condensation exists after long periods of sitting or during the summer.

i usually change the oil in the fall when I do a inspection of the machines before the snow flies.

heck , it takes 5-10 minutes. heck, you can drink a beer while waiting for the oil to drain and it's fun to use your new Dranzit.


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## ZOMGVTEK (Sep 25, 2014)

The annual oil change recommendation is a bit conservative. It really depends on the conditions the machine is stored in. I suspect its just easier for most people to remember to change it every year, especially since very few machines have hour meters. Most of the non snowblower enthusiasts don't change the oil every year. I know several people who have never changed the oil, or checked it.

Temperature swings can cause condensation. If the engine cools down overnight, and then the air temperature warms up, its possible some surfaces are below the dew point and you will get condensation inside the crankcase. This is generally not going to be more than a few drops of water, but if you live in an area with large temperature and humidity swings daily, this can be significant. The water wont really go anywhere until the machine is run long enough for the oil to get hot enough to slowly boil the water away. And it takes quite a while for this to happen, so for lots of people it wont go anywhere too quick.

If the machine is stored outside, you're likely to get a lot of condensation on all surfaces quite frequently. Stored in a heated garage, you shouldn't get any. And in an attached garage thats insulated but not heated, its unlikely to see enough temperature swing to get any condensation.


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## old ope mechanic (Feb 16, 2018)

tabora said:


> Well, this IS the Honda snowblower forum...:wink2:


never looked at the forums machine brand name area, as oil is oil. brands are simply brands, than people, are people many driving a MB or a RR look down with their noses in the air on someone driving a hyundai offering help when they break down. same goes with machines, 

BRASS TACKS is it is up to the OWNER to read the owner's manual, for me fixing ope's for 50 years, snow blowers are subject to the most extreme of operating conditions of any machine made. 100 hours in most cases is 4 maybe 5 or 8 to 10 years of use. most run by a homeowner with a normal sized lot , are run a hour or 2 at a time per storm or the same amount of time a few times during a storm . many never see 20 hours in a season 

100 hours ? That alone is way to long . machine gets hot and gets parked,cools down, condensation forms, machine again runs,gets hot and parked, repeat, than the owner checks the oil, sees the white foamy condensation around the fill tube or dipstick, panic sets in . yet it is normal, coldest part of the motor, the fill and dipstick areas. another YET! to much condensation can mean the machine never saw any proper servicing ever. 

my advice is yearly oil changes on snow blowers, regardless of what the manual states, most snow blowers hold ONE QT of oil, that's not a lot of money yearly for a DIYS'er playing safe


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> i always wondered about the 100 hour standard for honda's. you could go 3-4-5 seasons...


No, it's whichever comes first... There are probably a few people (like NORTHEAST) who put in 100+ hours on their machines in a season, but not too many end users.


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## JamesReady (Mar 5, 2012)

Hey Coby...

Look Back..... You may be leaving an oil trail..... hehehehe


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

tabora said:


> No, it's whichever comes first... There are probably a few people (like NORTHEAST) who put in 100+ hours on their machines in a season, but not too many end users.


we had 500 inches last year and i logged about 35-40 hours. usually 10-18 inches at a time.


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## guybb3 (Jan 31, 2014)

Are you kidding me? 500 inches? My family in Newfoundland don't even get that much!!


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