# Chute Switch(?) troubleshooting



## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

I have a P1524E and the auto chute won't always rotate (currently not at all). From my reading, likely a switch issue (part #1728969SM). Does anyone know if it can be opened up? No obvious way that I can find. I took the "button" off hoping to access the contacts from the top but it's sealed. There MAY be tabs on the sides, but pushing on that area hasn't worked. I think this is just a few years old, which means it could be the newer design that I've read referenced as hopefully solving the old problems, perhaps doing so by sealing it up better. But I'd like to get in to see if I can clean off the contacts (if that's the problem). Besides testing for continuity (see below), is there a good way to test while it's hooked up? I read somewhere someone recommending connecting a test light, and if a local store sells them I could do that, but don't know where/how I'd connect it, anyway.

I actually have a place close by that sells the replacement cheap ($35), but unfortunately today is Sunday and big snow is coming tonight. And I think they only ship, despite being close by (and maybe closed today).

Fwiw, I tried testing for continuity but couldn't get any. Probably because it's indeed broken, but I also wasn't sure which pins to test. It has 10 poles, and not sure which should show a closed circuit when I depress the rocker switch each way. I did test each of the pairs on the end with all of the other pins, with negative results on any combination, which could very well be because it's indeed not working. But wondered if anyone knew for sure which should be correct ones.

Thanks in advance for any help!


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Hi and welcome to the forum!
Have you watched this video from Taryl Fixes All?




Hopefully the video will help you troubleshoot. 
And as Taryl always says: "There's your dinner!"


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Yeah, I did. Thanks for the suggestion, but his is unfortunately slightly different (older?) I posted a question on that video's chat, too, to see if they've encountered my type.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Here's a better picture of mine (though MAYBE a different version?) This is what one side looks like; the other has a single indentation/slit, where I hoped I could pry it open. But I'm not sure if that's what it is. This one appears to be angled, the bottom 3/4 of it, whereas mine is not. But that could be a distortion from the camera lens. 
https://www.ebay.com/i/143067756527?chn=ps


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Maybe someone on the forum will be able to help you disassemble the switch. From your pics it looks like it just snaps together, but of course that's the trick, to get it apart without destroying it, LOL.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Here's what the top looks like with the rocker cover off, in case it helps. The two rounded items are glass (lights?), not contacts. The contacts are sealed (from the top) underneath. I don't even understand the mechanics of this type. From the looks, it was made to be better at keeping the elements out. And probably did, but didn't prevent pitting of the contacts.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Does this help any?
Sealed
Vehicle Rocker
There are some contact schematics about half way down.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

dbert said:


> Does this help any?
> Sealed
> Vehicle Rocker
> There are some contact schematics about half way down.


Boy, awesome find! Mine appears to be on page 8, the Above Panel Rocker Switch. If only I could read schematics  And if only it weren't as I suspected, "Designed
to meet the severe environmental requirements of the construction and agricultural vehicle markets, the SVR is sealed at the front and back of the switch, and meets the rigorous
sealing requirements of IP68."

So, not meant to be opened, it appears. Could dremel it and reseal with glue, I guess. Geez... Worse than an iPhone. Great that it kept the elements out; now if only they had designed it to not pit so easily (assuming that's what's going on?!)

On that, any thought on whether it might be the chute motor, and how I could tell?

Thanks for all the help; great forum!


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I am guessing that this is how your switch works. Power and ground (+/-) are brought in at pins 2 and 5. Holding the rocker one way and you connect terminals 2 to 3 and 5 to 6. Hold it the other way and you connect terminals 2 to 1 and 5 to 4.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks to dbert, I would troubleshoot by starting with seeing if you are getting voltage at where the 2 and 5 pins plug into the switch. If you are getting voltage then go from there.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanks much! Sorry I didn't do this earlier, but I just looked at the female side and see that there are only six pin receptacles, the middle 6 of the 10. If that matters. It doesn't seem to match up with the earlier schematic of 10, unfortunately. But... It could be a moot point, anyway. 

After learning that I should be able to swap out my deflector switch for this one, which will at least get me through tonight's storm, I plugged this one back in just to check and... sure enough, it worked. Now, the blower has been in my garage which I just heated, just in case (it's sub-zero today, too). So, now I'm wondering if the chute was actually frozen. I had taken it off and oiled with 10W, on the face of it where it mates with the blower, all the way around, as well as white lithium on the teeth. Attached is the manual drawing; I put a green arrow where I understood it to refer to where I oiled. The red arrows I wasn't sure of. Sorry for the newbie questions on this, but it's my first blower. Anywhere else I should have oiled?

Dang, trying to upload photos isn't working? I'll upload to imgur and put links in. Hope that's ok.

Thanks again so much for the help! If nothing else, I'll get my 10 posts done by the time I'm done with this thread 
https://imgur.com/a/SzWW3QB
https://imgur.com/7j0d0lf
https://imgur.com/a/6WquGxg


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Glad it's working now, at least! 

I wouldn't over-think lubricating the chute too much. I'd put some oil wherever the pieces are sliding, and it sounds like you did that. I'm not sure about the red arrows either, but if you oiled around that inner ring (if two parts are rotating against each other there), then I'd think you're in decent shape. 

Brushing off as much snow as possible when you're done using it should help avoid things freezing up, though of course it's still no guarantee. If you thought it froze up in the future, perhaps you could wiggle the chute around, tilting it by hand in different directions? Maybe you could get it to move enough to break the ice free. Or bringing it inside, using a hair dryer, etc, would also work. 

The contacts on the switch look good to me. But if you have any dielectric grease (for electrical contacts), it probably wouldn't hurt to put some on the contacts, then re-assemble the switch to the wiring. That will help avoid corrosion on the electrical contacts, and will also make them easier to remove in the future. I got a little tube of dielectric grease last year, and am now trying to apply to any electrical connections on my outdoor equipment, when I work on them. Should help be cheap insurance against future problems.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Good chance it was just physically froze up. 
I think the unused (missing) pins are for LEDs on switches that have illuminated icons in the rocker lens. 
I'm glad they are not there. Simplifies things.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanks. Still puzzled by the freezing up. The last time it happened it was mid-blowing, and it had only been a few minutes since I'd last rotated it. I tried a hair dryer (though outside, so not sure how hot it got). It did melt the snow that was on it. 

For now, I'll just try to get through tomorrow morning. If it freezes up, heat up the garage and bring it in for a bit. If need be, nice to know that I should be able to swap the deflector switch (if that's the issue). 

Thanks again for the help. Though now, since I know that it's currently working, I re-tested the poles and was able to confirm which ones created a closed circuit. See attached photo. Hopefully, it's clear, in case it helps anyone else in the future.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Just as a side note, that pin arrangement and conductivity is standard for just about every DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch out there . . . a tidbit worth remembering for another time . . .

From the data sheets linked, the unused pin positions on the far outside ends would be for indicator lights, which are not in this switch - one possible per end.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

tadawson said:


> Just as a side note, that pin arrangement and conductivity is standard for just about every DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch out there . . . a tidbit worth remembering for another time . . .
> 
> From the data sheets linked, the unused pin positions on the far outside ends would be for indicator lights, which are not in this switch - one possible per end.


Thanks! In reading through other posts and info, I came across that DPDT reference, but frankly, wasn't sure which mine was, or how to tell. As well as references to momentary vs maintained. Electricity is "probably" one of those things where the axiom that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing would apply  Planning on reading up more on it. 

One last tidbit that I came across on a great article (re: John Deere, though) - perhaps I got from somewhere on this forum - is this (a big 'duh!'), that put me at ease should it have been necessary:

"What to do if you are looking at a blizzard and your switch does not work (even after cleaning) and you can’t get a replacement? The rocker switch used for the chute deflector is the same switch (minus the label) so if your chute deflector works, set it to about 45 degrees then swap it with the chute rotator switch. You will not be able to adjust the deflector but at least you will be able to use your snow blower" That's from this: How to Fix a Broken Electric Chute on a John Deere 1330 SE Snowblower


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Pole count is how many circuits it switches, and 'throw' is haw many outputs it switches between, for example:

1 wire, simple on/off: single pole, single throw.
2 wires, simple on/off: double pole, single throw
3 wires, simple on off: triple pole, single throw.
etc.

1 wire selected between two destinations: single pole, double throw
2 wires selected between to destinations: double pole, double throw.
etc.

What is going on here is that the center two leads are power input, and the outer two pairs are electrically cross connected and also connected to the motor. That way, when the switch is in one on position, plus is on lets call it lead one and negative on lead two. In the opposite direction, negative is on lead one and positive on lead two, reversing motor diredtion. Since the switch cannot connect both sets of output contacts at the same time, it's can't short out the power source, despite the cross connection of the outputs.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Though, unfortunately, it appears that it wasn't the switch, afterall. I got halfway through blowing yesterday and it froze up again (failed to rotate).
BUT... I think I know - or can guess - where I didn't lube and need to. See attached pic. One question, though: I would prefer to make sure it's both dry and grime free, first. Can I pour SeaFoam oil and engine treatment down there? It looks like it will leak out the bottom. Wondering if that's dangerous, or not even effective. Or rubbing alcohol?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I wouldn't use Seafoam. That's not at all what it's for, and if nothing else, it's needlessly expensive for that purpose. If you're worried about flushing that area out, rubbing alcohol would work, and is cheap. But after giving it time to dry, make sure to lube it properly, as the alcohol will tend to strip any oil away.

I've never had an electric chute, maybe they've very susceptible. But I've never had a chute freeze up while blowing. Mine is stored in the garage, so it starts out above freezing. I wouldn't rule out electrical/motor problems.

After it stopped working, could you wiggle the chute around by hand, like tilting it a bit? If so, I'd think it being frozen up seems less likely.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Ok, sprayed WD-40 in there, followed by PTFE-based lubricant. Got about :10 in (had to stop to move cars, so it didn't get pivoted for a few minutes), and frozen again. But, I noticed that the area I was concerned about has wiggle; it's not frozen to the body of the machine.

Could it be the gears where the teeth are engaged?


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Even with the chute's gears not engaged, it wouldn't turn. Can I surmise it's not freezing after all, but rather merely poops out after a few minutes, and it's the motor?


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

It better not be the motor. $125 is the cheapest I could find! Part #1728965SM Spout Rotator 

I'll let it warm up and try again. If it works, I'm thinking it isn't the motor. Even if the motor was weak, with the chute disengaged it wouldn't turn. And I had used a hair dryer on it before trying in the prior post (the white is lithium grease).


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Check for voltage at the motor, when it's not working. A friend had a motor fail, I seem to recall he used a particular car window motor as a replacement? There may be cheaper sources, anyways.


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## toms (Nov 17, 2017)

You may want to do a little research on the motor... I remember reading that a Saturn window motor is the same thing for about 1/3 the price.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Yeah, that looks an awful lot like a window motor . . . about the only critical component will be the gear size and if the mount fits . . .


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

I THINK it may be freezing up around the rotator itself, the round part (sorry, I'm not familiar with the part names) that the gear goes over. Haven't had snow - only -20 cold - so haven't looked at it again. I'm planning on drying it out and lubing. Maybe with Teflon/PTFE-based first, which will flow down better, and then top it off with white lithium. I actually did spray lube down it the last time, and it went for a bit, but finally froze again. 

Does anyone know if this is serviceable? Can I take this apart to better dry and lube it?


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Ok, I took the motor off, and after cleaning it off (relatively) I see that the place where I thought it was rotating - my green in prior pic - is not actually it. The spindle(?) is smaller, and there's a washer covering it to prevent moisture from getting in.

Question: should I take the washer off and try to dry and lube underneath? I figure there's no harm, but thought I'd ask first. BTW: what's the name of the part that's securing it? I've popped them off with a screwdriver before, but never known the name.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

From the impression left in the second picture, it looks like an external retaining ring is securing it to the shaft.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Under the retaining clip was the washer, and then an o-ring. And possibly yet another o-ring. Is it likely this is the problem? Here's a short video of what I'm looking at, wiggling it. There is a bit of water in there, so theoretically it could be. What would you recommend me doing here? Air/blow dryer it? Use WD-40 or ispropyl? If WD-40, if there's not where for it to go, do I wait for it to dry? And then should I go with PTFE or lithium in there?


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

I just talked to a friend, and he thought that the power of the motor was enough that it wouldn't be able to freeze up, and he was wondering if it's a dead spot in the motor or a bad wire that's causing intermittent problems. Any thoughts on the first part, that it would be strong enough to break any ice binding? He doesn't have experience with snow blowers; just going on his knowledge of motors. 

The next time it fails I'll try wiggling the wire and then tapping on the motor, in case that is the issue. Before I put it back on, I'd still be interested in thoughts on what action I should take with respect to treating the area with wd-40 or alcohol, and then lube.


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## toms (Nov 17, 2017)

Jack G, what is all that crud on top of the motor. I took the plastic cover off of my 7 yr old Signature Pro 24 and my motor is clean aluminum. I have gone through a few switches but the motor is original. I wonder if it is all crudded up inside also.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

That would be my bet. Seal leaked, and case has water in it that orks the motor when it freezes . . .


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

I'm thinking it's oil/grease. When I was having issues, I did spray some PTFE in there. But this is 10 years old, and I've only had it 1 year, so not sure what the prior owner did.
As for it having leaked, so the thought is that it's packed with grease that leaked out? There was a tiny bit of play in it (see video I shared). 
Thanks for your thoughts.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I noticed the play in the shaft in your video. It's possible the motor's bearing is also shot. 

As far as a dead spot in the motor, if you get it stuck, and then maybe try to manually rotate the chute a little bit (to rotate the motor itself, if that's even possible), will the motor work again? 

It's possible the motor could break some ice loose. But I'm assuming there's a gearbox in the motor assembly. The closer the ice gets to the motor itself, the lower the torque, and the less likely that the motor can break it loose. That is, the output gear for the chute will have a lot of torque, but the motor itself will have much less. So if the motor itself freezes, you're more likely to get stuck. 

You could try blowing the motor out with compressed air, maybe, to try and remove any water. Or bring it inside where it's warm, and put it in front of a fan for a day or so, something like that. Removing any seals first, to try and let the air get in there.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

RedOctobyr said:


> It's possible the motor could break some ice loose. But I'm assuming there's a gearbox in the motor assembly. The closer the ice gets to the motor itself, the lower the torque, and the less likely that the motor can break it loose. That is, the output gear for the chute will have a lot of torque, but the motor itself will have much less. So if the motor itself freezes, you're more likely to get stuck.


Isn't it the opposite? The farther out from the motor, the larger the lever - and more weight farther away - would create more resistance?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The motor likely generates high RPMs, but little torque. So it's easy to stop. But after it goes through the gearbox, you reduce the RPMs, and increase the torque. So after the gearbox (which is to say, at the output for the gear that turns the chute), you have a lot more torque available. 



Freeze the output gear, and maybe the motor can break it free. Freeze the motor itself, and you probably have trouble. 



The further out you are from the rotating item, the more torque you can apply *to* the rotating item. But the further out, the less force the rotating item can apply to something *else*. Sorry, I'm not quite following what you were describing.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanks. I follow that. And what you said seemed right in a way (and is). I know that I can exert more force with a long lug wrench than a short one. I think I was coming from the opposite end, and how much force (via resistance) is applied there. What I was going from was that if I were holding a pole out and someone tried to move it, I would have a lot harder time resisting them if they were 20 feet away than closer. So (I was thinking), there's more resistance out there. And hence, harder for the motor to break free a freeze out there than an inch away from its center. I do get your point, that the motor is putting more torque (force) out there, too. Now I just have a headache 

Anyway, thanks for the explanation and your thoughts! I'll try drying it out as best I can, lube it and make sure it's up and running before new snow next week. Or replace the motor, I guess. 
Does PTFE followed by lithium sound right? Though with the washer over the area, I'm not sure how necessary that is. As it is, there's a cover over the gear, that's over the motor.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Jack,

Have you gone further in the drivetrain of that motor?? Taken off that plastic cover?? There should be 2 more gears in there... A small pinion gear that is the motor armature, plus a larger gear that is turned by the pinion. That rusty grease that is on the outside that you cleaned off, is more than likely what you'll find inside the cover. The rust is caused by water intrusion, and may be what is actually 'Freezing'. You may want to try cleaning that out and filling with some clean white lube, then reassembling it. Considering the price of a new motor, it's worth a shot. I've seen the same thing happen on a snowmobile Reverse Motor.... same type of setup.... and the same problem. Freezes when very cold. If the armature and brushes have not been damaged or burned by continuing to activating the switch while it's frozen, cleaning and lubing the gear train may save that motor for you.

GLuck, Jay


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanks much, Jay! I haven't gone further, and was about to get a new retaining ring to put it back together and on. I took the motor off from the gear section (see photo). Not sure if one can tell anything from that. When I took it off, a small amount of dirty water(?) - or very thin oil - did flow out. I presume you were referring to inside the gear part, which would entail taking the metal cover off? You mentioned plastic cover, though, so I thought I'd confirm before doing so, as I'll have to pry it off and I'm not sure about being able to get it back on.


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## toms (Nov 17, 2017)

I think i would just get a new motor. The entire thing does not look all that good


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanks Toms and Tadawson for the tip on the window motor substitute! Searching for that, I found a thread discussing that, and with a guy who had a similar problem as mine. Or at least one who had a leak in his motor that allowed water/moisture in.
https://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/66198-0-1.html

It's even on amazon with one reviewer noted using it on his Simplicity. The only thing that gives me pause is the gear that comes with it, which is much smaller than mine, but I'm sure is for the car window purpose. I just wish I could see the shaft underneath. But I'm trusting it's right. The guy on that above thread noted that, too, but concluded that it was the wrong motor. But his comment was made the same day as his earlier comment saying it was right, so I think he simply assumed it was wrong from the photo, as opposed to having bought it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z7O1PLW/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Arghhh... It turns out the amazon one was not correct. The 210-1011 is the correct one, and in searching for that the Amazon link came up with the gear/pinion on it. I received it, and it is fixed on it. 
The best (cheapest) I could find was an AM Motor, which used to be linked to at $45 or so, but is now $87.
https://www.amequipment.com/shop/230-series-dc-gear-wiper-motor-4yyt5-9pm67-mhpm3?rq=210-1011
It's the RH Driver's Side one (the photo on that page is the LH Passenger - it's for the whole 210 series - but you use a drop down to select the correct one). 

Thanks for all the help. Since it's $87, and has a 20% restocking fee (though almost certain it will be the right one), I'm going to grease up the internal gears of my current one and see if it was freezing up. I've had it "open" (the motor separated from the gears) for a couple of days, so figure any water has dried out by now. If it stops working, I'll try tapping it to see if there's a dead spot. And if need be, bite the bullet on the $87 one.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Snow finally coming tonight. Before I put the motor back together (the motor and the gears parts - again, the photo is what I'm looking at), is there any reason I can't spray some lithium into the gear half, into the hole? I'll lube the shaft that's going in there, but someone mentioned there being more gears inside. Can I simply spray lithium in there? Any downside?
Or should I take that half apart by prying the metal cover off of it? Obviously, I'm hesitant to do so if I don't have to. 

I will go ahead and order a new motor, but it won't get here for several days. Now, back to trying to fix my dishwasher 
Thanks again for all help!


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

I just wanted to update. I sprayed white lithium grease into the gear half of the motor, hooked it back up, and two days so far without any failures. Though it's only been in the 20's. I really didn't lube much else any more, so my thought it was water having gotten into the gears and caused them to freeze. Could be a coincidence, too; we'll see. When I put it back together, I also used silicone grease on the o-rings that were under the washer and retaining clip; that may have been where water had entered. 

Thanks again for all the help!


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Ok, yet another update  Unfortunately. Got through 3 storms without a glitch, then went to use today and zero movement from the get-go. It was in the garage, but unheated, so any water that got in the motor may have still been frozen. When I last put it away it had been working, though.

I took it apart again, and sure enough, water in both halves of the motor. Taking it off of the machine, there was a lot of snow around the pinion and retaining clip/washer. There are 2 o-rings under the washer, and I had put o-ring lube on them. Water either got through there, and traveled from there (where most was) to the other half with the windings, or between the two halves. See photos.

I've tried drying it out, shaking water out and using a blow dryer on them. I'm sure I got most out, if not completely dry. I'll again spray the inside of the gear half with lithium grease. I recall putting something between the two halves of the motor last time before putting it back together; I believe it was o-ring lube. Any other suggestions on that? RTV or polyurethane glue?! Also, I presume there's not harm in putting a bunch of lithium grease around and and under the washer. Any other suggestions?


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Have you removed, inspected, and/or considered replacing the O rings? Lube just lets them move into place without damage - it's not a sealant . . .


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanks, I was wondering about that, the qualities of the lube for keeping water out. I haven't done so again, as the retaining ring was a bear to get back on (original broke when taking it off). The tool (retaining clip pliers) I had didn't have a retaining clip tip that was small enough. I'm thinking, if the o-rings are functioning as they should(?) be - to be compressed to create a seal - if I would be able to do wedge new ones on. Fwiw, the ones on didn't seem damaged, but they could have shrunk. Some of what I read was that retaining clips are beveled and need to be put on in the correct orientation, but I wasn't able to tell which direction was beveled (if one was). It hasn't come off.

I'll see about taking that off again. If not, maybe if I just clean out any snow that gets into that area before it's able to melt and seep in. As I said, when I last put it away it was working, so I'm thinking there was a lot of snow under the cover that melted and seeped in, then froze. I am guessing it got through there rather than in the seal between the two halves. Anything else I should do at that joint, though?

Thanks again.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

You'd asked about RTV or polyurethane glue between the two halves of the motor. I would not use anything like those. They'll set up and harden when they dry. That might make it really difficult to disassemble later. At least if they are two decent-sized flat surfaces, which will let them really grab. 

There are greases that are pretty thick and "goopy" (technical term!). They could help fill up little gaps, while still being removable. We use vacuum grease sometimes at work, it would fit that description. But plenty of things could do it. 

I'm not sure what you meant, when discussing whether new o-rings could be wedged on? O-rings can firm up and stay in their compressed shape over time, losing their squeeze against the mating item. It's possible that's contributing. Pictures of the o-rings and where they sit could help those of us who aren't really familiar with these.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

I don't any photos of it apart; again, hesitant to do so since the clip was so hard to get back on. But I may have to bite the bullet on that. The o-rings are in a gap around the shaft, under the washer. Perhaps the amount of pressure required to press new ones in isn't that great, and I'd be able to do it. That was my concern, though. I'm thinking that any grease I put in under the washer to try to keep snow/water out would spin out, too. And it just occurred to me, that the shaft is not round, so there's a small gap on top, between the flat sides of the shaft and the washer, where water gets through, too. Going to have to take apart again, I guess, and try replacing the o-rings. Thanks for the help.


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## JackJ (Jan 27, 2019)

It turns out it's just 1 o-ring. It looked like another underneath, that I didn't bother trying to get out, but now I see that it's hard and I imagine metal. I'll get a new o-ring and try again. 
As for the mating surfaces of the other half of the motor, it's rubber, and I don't think that it's a significant issue for leakage, but any suggestion for putting anything on it before I screw the too halves back together (as well as put this electrical connection section - which fits between them - back in?
Thanks.


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