# Frozen cable



## briguy

Hi, new member here. Just used my st227 for the second time and the cable that controls the up and down movement of the chute is frozen solid. anyone with a solution? worried about putting cable lube down, have read somewhere that they are silicone lined and might be destroyed with lube. Is this possibly something warranty should take care of?


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## Hanky

Are you sure the cable is frozen and hot the hinge, on my neighbour 224 the hinge was frozen a small lift is all it took.


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## bad69cat

They make special lube for motorcyle cables...... I would use that if it comes down to it.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Maybe a hair dryer to get it thawed out.


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## briguy

It's the cable freezing. Thawed it out, it worked till I went back outside with it for 10 minutes and froze up again. Wondering if a heavier duty cable and spring is available. Somehow moisture must be getting past the boot around the cable. Thought others would have this issue as it seems like a major flaw.


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## Kiss4aFrog

It's a matter of getting it thawed and dried out and then getting something in there.

You can oil it. Get motorcycle spray cable lube or even use RV antifreeze, automotive if you're not worried about pets.

Here is some show and tell. https://www.google.com/search?q=lube+motorcycle+cable+youtube&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8


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## ELaw

I would favor oil which would displace water, vs. antifreeze which would mix with water.

And I would not worry about using any kind of "normal" oil (motor oil etc.) on that cable. Most cable sheaths are lined with nylon which is fine being oiled.


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## bad69cat

check this out 



 
I have one of these


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## briguy

Thanks for the responses. I thought it should be dried out too, and then add cable lubricant. After I'm done, I think I will put zip ties around the boot ends to see if that will keep further moisture intrusion at bay.


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## db9938

First, i'd try to get the existing moisture out. Might try dry gas, but be carful and wear gloves. Go slow, and let it work it's way through. You will need to re-lube after.


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## briguy

FIXED! First took the cable off the chute and let the water drain, there was more than I thought would be in there then I used db9938's idea and used a dry gas to remove any moisture. Then I let gravity drain the isopropyl out and used compressed air to push out the remaining fluid. Then re lubed the cable with some Polaris clutch/ cable lube I had laying around. Because of the amount of moisture I found in the cable, I decided to put zip ties around both ends of the boot. Put it outside for an hour to test, and no freeze up. I would advise anybody who has an ST200 series to put zip ties on your cable boot. Thanks again everyone.


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## db9938

Sweet, good to hear.


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## bad69cat

Amen.... yeah having a way to deflect is a good idea.


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## dr bob

For those playing at home... The cable housing is silicone lined so it normally wouldn't need lubrication. You want to thaw the cable of course. Then WD-40 (Water Displacer Forty...) is the weapon of choice. Make sure the boot is installed correctly on the business end of the cable to keep water out in the future.


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## db9938

Agreed, the challenge though is to get a good seal, on the up side to force it down and out. And I have yet to come up with a decent, "garage worthy" fix..... And as I sit here, I just had a flash. What about using a ballon, with a hole poked in it. simply feed the cable in through the inflating end, feed the lug through the hole, down the cable. Then simply insert the nozzle beside the cable, and twist the balloon to create a reasonable facsimile of a seal. Wear eye protection.....

What do you think?


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## dbert

Ariens machines were having this problem and the later models had a longer cable that looped over so water (melting snow) did not enter the sleeve.


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## db9938

And the convenient rubber boot doesn't hurt. Hmm, add some zip ties to the balloon, and you might have a temporary "garage fix' that's similar.


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## dr bob

The bellows/gaiter/whatever that's already on the cable is fine if it's fitted correctly. Part of the joy of the fitup is the way the pivot is done at the deflector end. It will bind up if it's not perfect, cauing the end of the cable to bow and pop th little bellows off at the end and let water in. Make double sure that the end of the cable is free to pivot on the bolt, and that tha cable stays pretty straight through the whole travel especially full extension.


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## db9938

True, I was just thinking of a cheap "garage fix."


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## briguy

dbert said:


> Ariens machines were having this problem and the later models had a longer cable that looped over so water (melting snow) did not enter the sleeve. As far as WD40, it dries out and with warm and cold, moisture could still form in the bottom cable loop, so just a little cable lube should displace any moisture forming there.


That is exactly the problem the Huskys are having! The boot (even when installed correctly) will allow water to seep in. I put a little dab of silicone around the eyelet and then put on a zip tie. That should suffice. Wd40 dries out, so a little cable lube settling at the bottom of the loop should displace any moisture developing due to cold to warm situations.


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## scotts3020

Hello All,

Great post. What I found out is Ariens has changed the cable. I purchased a new cable and installed in less than 5 minutes and all has been good in 2 severe storms here with the new cable in NH. What Ariens did was coat the cable with nylon. The older cable I had used a protective rubber coating but my problem was the inside was metal on metal. Ariesn has now coated the line with nylon or like substance so there will not be a metal on metal rusting or seizing.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...qwo50bjzoxxsrazt0n9amqb_qbubhpsqhiaagju8p8haq


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## dr bob

After this discussion last winter, I took a few minutes to add some small plastic cable ties to the rubber gaiter/bellows based on db9938's suggestion above. The maintenance protocol includes adding silicone spray lube at the end of last season, and replacing the ties after that. No problems at all freezing that cable.

But.... The auger drive cable has frozen a couple times this season. There's no bellows on that cable as delivered, so I'll need to go find something. It may be as easy as a bicycle brake cable bellows, just need to get something.


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## JayzAuto1

Water intrusion seems to be a general nuisance on most cables on any brand. I started using Di-electric grease on the ends this season, when doing 'tune-ups'. I will slide back the boots and hit the cable with WD-40* on both ends of the cable to try and load it up, during the service time. At the end, i use the Di-electric grease on the ends of the cables and the tops of the boots to help seal out moisture. It seems to work on most of them, although I can't speak for every one of them. There is always that odd customer that will outsmart the best advice. GLuck, Jay


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## Jason1972

briguy said:


> FIXED! First took the cable off the chute and let the water drain, there was more than I thought would be in there then I used db9938's idea and used a dry gas to remove any moisture. Then I let gravity drain the isopropyl out and used compressed air to push out the remaining fluid. Then re lubed the cable with some Polaris clutch/ cable lube I had laying around. Because of the amount of moisture I found in the cable, I decided to put zip ties around both ends of the boot. Put it outside for an hour to test, and no freeze up. I would advise anybody who has an ST200 series to put zip ties on your cable boot. Thanks again everyone.


I also have the Husqvarna ST227 I just


briguy said:


> FIXED! First took the cable off the chute and let the water drain, there was more than I thought would be in there then I used db9938's idea and used a dry gas to remove any moisture. Then I let gravity drain the isopropyl out and used compressed air to push out the remaining fluid. Then re lubed the cable with some Polaris clutch/ cable lube I had laying around. Because of the amount of moisture I found in the cable, I decided to put zip ties around both ends of the boot. Put it outside for an hour to test, and no freeze up. I would advise anybody who has an ST200 series to put zip ties on your cable boot. Thanks again everyone.


I just bought the husqvarna st227 and I am having the same problem my chute cable keeps on freezing so I can't turn the chute at all..so u just pit zip ties at the end of the cables and no more problems..could I use wd40 or something similar to spray the cables


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## vanderzweeptheo

Hanky said:


> Are you sure the cable is frozen and hot the hinge, on my neighbour 224 the hinge was frozen a small lift is all it took.


i try that no go


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## dr bob

Jason1972 said:


> I also have the Husqvarna ST227 I just
> 
> I just bought the husqvarna st227 and I am having the same problem my chute cable keeps on freezing so I can't turn the chute at all..so u just pit zip ties at the end of the cables and no more problems..could I use wd40 or something similar to spray the cables


The chute steering cables on mine have not had issues with water and freezing. What does happen sometimes is that ice and slush get thick enough inside the chute to keep it from turning. My solution has been to make sure the inside of the chute stays waxed, plus I use waterproof grease where the chute drops onto the base so it turns really easily. You might get some short-term relief with WD40 or maybe spray silicone down there, but for a whole season of relief I like the grease. I have a little tub of light blue waterproof boat trailer wheel bearing grease left from earlier times, and it holds up quite nicely.


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## distrbd

dr bob said:


> The chute steering cables on mine have not had issues with water and freezing. What does happen sometimes is that ice and slush get thick enough inside the chute to keep it from turning. My solution has been to make sure the inside of the chute stays waxed, plus I use waterproof grease where the chute drops onto the base so it turns really easily. *You might get some short-term relief with WD40 or maybe spray silicone down there, but for a whole season of relief I like the grease.* I have a little tub of light blue waterproof boat trailer wheel bearing grease left from earlier times, and it holds up quite nicely.


Good advice, I sprayed silicone in all those places I thought might give me a hard time but also got in my arsenal a tube of marine grease to lube on the sliding shaft and hinges, it says on tube that it still performs well in extremely cold temperatures.


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## jackdrinker00

briguy said:


> FIXED! First took the cable off the chute and let the water drain, there was more than I thought would be in there then I used db9938's idea and used a dry gas to remove any moisture. Then I let gravity drain the isopropyl out and used compressed air to push out the remaining fluid. Then re lubed the cable with some Polaris clutch/ cable lube I had laying around. Because of the amount of moisture I found in the cable, I decided to put zip ties around both ends of the boot. Put it outside for an hour to test, and no freeze up. I would advise anybody who has an ST200 series to put zip ties on your cable boot. Thanks again everyone.


 I have the st 227 and having the same problem..I thought it would b the cables but not to sure I’ll have to try this is it hard to take the cables off


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## dr bob

If the challenge is caused by water in the cable, your first step needs to be getting that water out. For the chute nozzle elevation cable, it's a prime candidate with an end up in the snow path and a nice dip/low spot in the middle. Water gathers there and freezes. Disconnect the end at the chute, and let it hang low. Then add heat, either in your heated garage or via a hair drier, so that any ice inside melts and eventually evaporates. Once all the water is out of there, it's a good idea to figure a way to keep water out. There's a factory boot at the chute end, but the end under the console isn't so well protected. You can add a bicycle brake boot there, stuffed with grease and secured with a small cable tie, to limit how water might find its way in there in the future.

All of the console ends of the control cables are eligible for similar treatment and ongoing care. WD-40 is "Water Displacer Forty", so can help as a cable housing flush to help get water out. It's a mediocre lubricant at best though. Getting real grease all the way through a cable housing can be a challenge, but there are fittings and gadgets for bicycle cables that might make things easier. For sure though, keeping water out of the housings is a giant first step. Don't be afraid to use real lubricants (read: grease) on the mechanisms and pieces that the control cables are connected to. Limit further wear on those things, plus reduce friction and related cable wear in the process.

We buy machines that seem to work well when we get them. But stuff immediately starts to deteriorate with time and use. I was in the drive box to clean and lubricate some of the pieces that, per the instructions, have "lifetime lubrication". In my case that was effectively no lubrication on some critical pieces, so there was a pretty intense session with new pieces and some real grease to help extend the lubrication lifetime a tad. It looks like some of this stuff will be an annual end-of-season effort, like the little planetary reduction boxes for the 'power steering'. Once I'm in there for those I might as well take care of everything. That would include control cables, the pivots and the connections for the levers, etc., as well as all those moving bits in the drive case.


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