# Toro 38050 drive belt install



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I am new to the forum, just starting to work on some lawnmowers and snowblowers. I recently picked up (for free !!) a 1980 Toro 724. After cleaning out alot of varnish (the owner said it has sat for 20 years in his garage, I think the whole time with gas), I got the motor running pretty well. I then noticed that the belts were very dry. The auger belt comes off easy, but I am struck on the drive belt. The shaft for the auger idler arm assembly is very close to the drive pulley (see picture) and is preventing a simple removal. The operator manual just says slide the idler pulley out of the way (I actually removed it) and then just "remove the belt". I may be able to force it out, but I am thinking that I am missing something simple. Any ideas?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The side of the frame looks like a tight fit as well. Does moving the idler arm bracket back and forth change anything?


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

you just force it between the rod it wont hurt it. on these snowblowrs you dont have to remove the lower pan to replace the belts, you just slip it in between the pulleys and into the pulley groves


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

Shryp: there isn't much slop for the bracket, like the rest of the machine it is built pretty rugged.

43128: that's what I'll try today. And I removed the pan just to inspect the pulleys, pads, etc (and to learn a bit more about these machines).

Thanks


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

YOU are going to have to split the blower in halfsees . ALOHA from the paradise city.


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## wheelhorseboy (May 30, 2014)

Some older Toros I have had to split to change the belts. After removeing top and middle bolts, you might be able to just loosen the bottom bolts to let it hinge apart withought completely separating it.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

Thanks all for the insights. I did manage to change both belts, without splitting the blower. But I did have the bottom plate off, which made it much easier to get the loose belts exactly where they needed to go. I can now see how splitting the blower may make it quicker, especially if I had to do in cold weather.

Now on to lubing the gears, cleaning the friction disc, and buttoning back up. Then some fresh gas and a test drive.

Thanks again.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

Followup: is there a deflection amount for the drive belt? the guides just say to remove slack. Any rule of thumb you guys have learned over the years?

thanks


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

THE pulley for the drive belt should tight up to it. or as I like to say snug as a bug in a rug.k:k:k:k:k:k:


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

and the obligatory picture, all cleaned up and ready for covers to go on. Thanks members for the resources and the replies.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

:welcome:

Congratulations on getting the necessary repairs done. That machine looks mighty nice for being 35 years old, great find.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

paulm12 said:


> and the obligatory picture, all cleaned up and ready for covers to go on. Thanks members for the resources and the replies.


 That wire guard goes on the out side of the chute. not inside of it.:facepalm_zpsdj194qh:facepalm_zpsdj194qh


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

Powershift: I wondered how that guard actually worked. I've seen them in various positions on different snowblowers over the years, but never really paid attention. And I have never seen directions about them.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Not really needed. I have heard it is just to stop people from putting their hands down there.


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