# 10M4 Rebuild/refurbish



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just started the tear down today, now to pull out my pressure washer for the next step. For those that have not dismantled a unit before, if you don't put the bolts or pins, etc. back where they came, bag and tag everything. Also when in doubt about assembly, take photos. These machines are pretty straight forward. Going to put new tires, new belt as well as a new friction disc and repaint.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Photos in correct position ... strange, but uploads sometimes get rotated .....


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

full teardown? and looks like a newer engine. I don't remember all of your previous posts and plans.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I've always been a fan of the old 10000 series, but lately have concentrated on the 73's and 74's with the different saftey clutches..here is a pic of the last one I refurbed with a $79 MTD 208 cc engine off E-bay


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@PAUL,

I am dismantling it to clean it up and paint it .. along with friction disc, XTrac tires, belt and anything else I see while apart.

I would have gotten further along today, but when I pulled out my pressure washer and cleaned it up, it was so nice out, I pressure washed the north side of my house .. 

I'll get into the guts tomorrow and put in a new friction disc, as well as dismantle the bucket for paint.


@cran,

Yeah, I have 2 of these, a 10M4 and a 10M6 with the chrome handlebars and differential. This 4 has a B&S w/electric start , was for the wife years ago …. and I put a Predator 99.00 on the 10M6, ... both run great. These older Ariens were so well built, real quality.

They compliment my 2 924's and my great Yardman 7100-2 and my green Craftsman I just finished rebuilding. Been a busy fall ….


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Hi

Nice project!

Do you spray or brush on paint? I will be doing this paint on a 10965 in the spring. I ran out of good weather and don't t have a warm shop.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks, I enjoy these refurbishes... 

I use spray for just about everything, usually doing a sand, primer and then the final paint. I use a gray primer, than for the Ariens, I use the Farm paint by Rustoleum, the Gloss Husqvarna Orange.

I am having nice weather, but also can heat my shop. I might try and fashion a portable paint booth from clear plastic for paint dust if the weather does not cooperate.


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

Several years ago, I picked up an old 6 HP Ariens Sno-Thro (model 10M6 with the chromed handlebars) on Cape Cod for $25. I thought it was a good deal until the first time I used it and the rubber separated from the disc drive wheel! 

There were no instructions to be found on the internet for replacing the wheel. None of the members on the snowblower forum I belonged to at that time could offer any advice on how to replace the wheel. 

Close inspection of the tractor housing showed a hole positioned opposite one of the transmission shafts and I envisioned a means by which the factory assembled the transmission. 12 hours (and a couple nicks on my hands) later, I had completed replacing the wheel! It's a major pain in the a.. to replace the wheel on a 10Mx machine. 

I've had to stitch weld the auger housing near the scraper bar connection area. 

Now the auger gear case has an oil leak at the impeller shaft seal and the shaft bushing (if present) is worn . I'm definitely not going to attempt impeller removal on this old machine and the best fix I've learned is to drain the gear oil, replace it with 00 grease and call it good. 

Restoring one of these old Sno-Thro machines is a labor of love.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@bad,

Actually, it is a pretty straight forward machine, which is solidly built, and performs very well. I also have a 10M6 with the chrome handle bars. I put the Predator engine on that one … runs great also. Probably tear that down for a repaint also at some point.

On all snow blowers of any age, with a good amount of regular use, will start to split/fracture at the lower auger housing sides by the cutting edge bar area. That is a high stress area, and I have welded four machines already.

You are correct in the side case housing holes, as they are there for easy assembly and dis-assembly. It is a bit of a knack to changing out the disc, and find it much easier done on a dis-assemble, which can be done rather quickly. Pull the engine, separate the chute, pull the wheels and handlebars. Now you can bench the body to change out the disc. Ariens saw the frustration of many owners I'm sure, thus on the newer models it is just done by putting it in the service position and easily changed.

You are doing good on the lube, as most people with leaking seals go that route if not changing the seals.

I'm ready for prep and paint … I'm going to do the frame housing and bucket in orange, but going to do the handle bars and auger blades and impeller in black, like the newer units ..  … it will match the newer B&S engine on it.


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

Where does one get the most correct color-matched/gloss paint in Ariens orange?

Also, have you ever attempted to separate the impeller from the impeller shaft?




oneacer said:


> You are doing good on the lube, as most people with leaking seals go that route if not changing the seals.
> 
> I'm ready for prep and paint. I'm going to do the frame housing and bucket in orange.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

oneacer said:


> Thanks, I enjoy these refurbishes...
> 
> I use spray for just about everything, usually doing a sand, primer and then the final paint. I use a gray primer, than for the Ariens, I use the Farm paint by Rustoleum, the Gloss Husqvarna Orange.
> 
> I am having nice weather, but also can heat my shop. I might try and fashion a portable paint booth from clear plastic for paint dust if the weather does not cooperate.


Will you clear coat after you paint. I guess that might be over-kill for a snowblower. Do you sand down to metal or just get the rust off. Also, my wheels are terrible- all rust. I started to use a drill with a wire wheel. Any tricks for the wheels.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@bad,

As mentioned, I use the Rustoleum Farm paint in Huskavarna Orange which I get at Lowes.

I have separated the impeller on many units, its just usually held on by 2 rolled pins … be careful, and use Trizol (weasel ****) or the like, and tap the easily in bot directions, and be careful not to mushroom the end of the pin, and tap them out with a punch slightly smaller diameter than the pin .. when reinstalling, use some NeverSeize.

If you come across a seized impeller, use heat, Trizol, and fashion a puller if need be, repeat …. they usually break free by tapping them in both directions.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@ariens,

No, just the finish gloss orange is fine for me.

On rusted areas, I sand down to metal …. wheels I use my bench grinder which one side is a wire wheel, then finish up by using a drill wire wheel and hand wire brush and sandpaper … prime with gray primer, and then I like to use the Gloss white on the wheels, makes them pop nice against any machine.

This rim was so rusted before I started, inside and out.

Since this photo, I took out that straight valve, and put in a 90 degree (actually more like 45)


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Got the bucket primed, had to stop during prep and weld the lower right and left corners, a known issue cracking there on buckets, that is a high stress point. Manufacturers should tack a 90 degree hardened helper plate in that area.

Trying to get as much painting done today, supposed to rain tomorrow, then ill do the guts for the friction disc replacement.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I was able to get the bucket and handle bars painted after primer.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Looking good oneacer


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

That's good looking restoration work. I can never seem to get too enthused about painting a machine after the mechanical work is done. :blowerhug: 

I note your Sno-Thro model has a discharge chute which accommodated a drive sprocket instead of the worm gear used on next model year Sno-Thro. The drive sprocket is able to more quickly change the chute direction.

I had to MIG weld the same locations on my 10M6. The scraper bar probably needs to be welded too. 



oneacer said:


> Got the bucket primed, had to stop during prep and weld the lower right and left corners, a known issue cracking there on buckets, that is a high stress point. Manufacturers should tack a 90 degree hardened helper plate in that area.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@bad,

This 10M4 was looking so shabby next to my other machines, I decided on a tear down, just to make it look better …. 

Yes, the drive sprocket assembly for the chute is a great feature for sure. Nice smooth and quick operation.

I noticed on another thread, someone picked up a new Ariens, and I noticed now they wrap the scrapper bar up the sides of the bucket and bolt it. Ariens must have been aware for sure about that area being a problem on the buckets. This new scrapper bar relieves a lot of the stress off the bucket at that area now.

I will be doing the friction disc tomorrow, as well as more paint prep, if I don't do leaves.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

lookin good oneacer, thanks for the progress updates. Maybe one day I'll add an Ariens to the Toro herd.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks paul,

These older ones are quite easy to work on, pretty simple design, and made to last with solid quality parts.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

oneacer said:


> @ariens,
> 
> No, just the finish gloss orange is fine for me.
> 
> ...


The progress is coming along nicely! Dang, them wheels are better than new! Great job.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

Thanks for sharing.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Had time between things to do today to pull apart the main housing and put on the new friction disc …. now I'll be doing some prep and painting before re-assembly:

Go Nationals ……...


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I was able to get it all painted today, nice weather … I had to stop and free up the inner rod on the friction slide bracket, and also put some weld in the area on the end where it wore against the frame, then ground it down so it slides in and out at both ends of the bracket. The new XTrac tires were just delivered.

I have a couple busy days coming up, so may not get to assembly to later in the week.


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

That's going to look fantastic when it's all reassembled. Personally, I like the "Creamsicle" look of the old _Sno-Thro_ models with their orange frames and white engines. Given that your original engine is no longer present, use of a black color on some parts will give it a unique appearance that I'm looking forward to seeing.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, on this unit, I'm putting the augers and handle bars black to match the newer black engine .... I do keep the wheels a gloss white on all my orange Ariens, as well as my red older Yardman , makes the tires really stand out nice. On my green Craftsman, I repainted the wheels the same gray that came on it.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

That's looking good!

Are the wheels split? ( 4 pieces ) also, I see rods hanging. Are you painting the rods black, silver? 

Can you take pictures of the tractor as you assemble trans. With any heads up ( tips, tricks ) for us.

Have you ever seen anyone paint the predator engine white?

Thanks!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Ariensboy,

Thank You

Yes, on this machine, and a couple others, I opted for split rims for ease of uninstall and reinstall of the tires. I use tubes with that type rim. I did this years ago and got a good deal locally on the rims, before internet was popular for ordering stuff. I have since purchased one of those mini tire changers from Harbor Freight, which makes a world of difference in changing out these smaller tires on the one piece rims. You can now get those rims online. I also use the real tire lube, as well as the black tire bead seal. I also have the puller/inserter to put the new stems in the solid rims, again, using the tire lube to pull them through the rim. I use the stubby or 90 degree (actually more like a 45 degree) stems, which I get from Amazon, as where most of my parts come from, as it is just much quicker and easier.

I'll take some pictures on assembly of the main body. On these older model setups, many people have a terrible time changing out the friction disc. Ariens has since moved to a real easy design for this on newer models with the different friction shaft setup. On these older units, the friction bracket assembly has a small shaft/rod which runs through the bracket chase as I showed in the previous picture … this shaft is always rust welded inside its bracket chase way. There is a cotter pin holding it in place. This would make it easier for changing that friction disc in the machine, but as I mentioned, most are rust welded in. While I am doing a rebuild on this unit, I took the time to free up that rust welded shaft from its bracket housing with heat, Trizol and very light tapping for shock, (repeat many times), as being very careful not to damage the rod or the housing it slides into. Then I will place NeverSeize on the rod and its housing … although this will probably be the last friction disc this machine will ever see, as they last forever.  

Its actually easier in the long run to change these friction discs by taking off the belt guard (2 screw bolts), taking off the belly pan, (2 bolts), taking off the bucket (2 bolts), taking off the engine (4 nuts), unhooking the lever rods, and taking off the handle bars (4 bolts) …and take off the wheels as well. Now you just flip over the main body and have complete access to the drive setup. there is some dismantling, but just take pictures as you go or right it down, in case you can not remember how it gets reassembled. It is really pretty straight forward, but many average home owners are not going to want to tackle this, or are just not mechanically inclined, nor have the ability or space to do it.

I have never seen anyone paint the Predator engine white …. white really shows dirt and all the nicks … black is much more forgiving in that arena.

My 10M6 has the chrome handle bars, and when I get to that rebuild, which will be next, I think I can bring them back to there nice chrome shine. I put a Predator on that unit years ago. Rus great, cant beat it ,... 99.00 for a complete engine ….


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

lookin good, thanks for the updates. I also like your various outdoor paint stands.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Great job one this oneacer!...One of the things I dislike about the 10000 series though is changing out the drive disc......give me a 924 series everytime!


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

There's a 10M6 for sale around these parts that I'm having a hard time not buying just to say I own one of the old warhorses again. It's been garage kept it's entire life, one owner, and in pretty darn good shape for its age. Runs perfect, very little rust, the owner used it every year since he bought it new.

OF COURSE I have zero use for it, but these relatively pristine pieces come around ever so rarely.


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

I have my late father's Ariens _Sno-Thro_ that he purchased new circa 1968. It has new skid shoes, new belt and functions just fine. I used it between 2013 and 2017 to clear some huge snowfalls on a paved driveway. 

All the gas is now drained out. I won't use it on my gravel driveway because the stones would tear up the impeller housing (I have a well-seasoned ST-824 S_no-Thro_ for any snow). My dad's _Sno-Thro _is pretty much retired but it's not going anywhere! 

If I lived near you then I'd seriously consider getting that _Sno-Thro_ for use as a back-up machine.



tlshawks said:


> There's a 10M6 for sale around these parts that I'm having a hard time not buying just to say I own one of the old warhorses again. It's been garage kept it's entire life, one owner, and in pretty darn good shape for its age. Runs perfect, very little rust, the owner used it every year since he bought it new.
> 
> OF COURSE I have zero use for it, but these relatively pristine pieces come around ever so rarely.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

oneacer said:


> @Ariensboy,
> 
> Thank You
> 
> ...


Please take lots of pictures of reassembly of the inside. Thanks for sharing your project.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I was busy with other stuff today, like my CDL physical, etc. ... but did at least start putting it back together.

Let me stress, if you undertake a task like a rebuild, take the time to clean it up good of all the dirt and sand incrusted grease from years of use … lol, … or clean up the rust from no grease at all … This way, all the reinstalled parts will get the proper clean lube to get many more years out of it. Also take the time to replace any seized bearings … although these are sealed, and last a very long tome. Even on this 10M4, the original are fine, and going back in.

You will note on the friction disc travel bracket … that inner rod is the one I am talking about that gets rust welded in its top portion of the bracket it slides into. It is the bane of so may people having issues with changing out this type of model's friction disc. Once I freed it, I also put some spot weld on the end of the rod and reground it to its original shape, as it got a grove in it from just sitting in there for 45 years. Then I buttered it up with NeverSeize before sending it home. 

I should be able to make headway on it tomorrow if I don't get interrupted … I may have to go pick up a window for my sister.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

So, I had just enough time today to put the main body back together. Again, cleaning the gears of all the years of grease is a must, to get new lube on it. For the gears, you'll notice I use a brush for applying the grease. I also use chain and cable lube called MAC, from NAPA. I also use my home made spring installer, just a piece of round wood stock, a small piece of metal notched in the wood with some mechanic wire twisted around it, going through the wood to a loop twisted on the end which I just slide over the spring, pull it to attach then just snip the mechanics wire once installed. After so many uses, just put in a new piece of mechanics wire.



The reassemble is the reverse of the disassemble.


Most people have a hard time with the friction disc, because the upper inner rod that slides out of the upper friction disc bracket is always rust welded in, which requires further disassemble to get at it. Normally, you would just remove the drive rod cotter pin, remove the upper rod cotter pin and slide that inner rod out, remove the hair pins on the bottom slide rod, and remove the friction bracket to change the disc.


As always, make sure you protect the rubber friction disc and clean the drive plate as well ... this plate was fine, but I imagine some need to be resurfaced by sanding, or replacing from damage neglect.


Next is to put the hubs and new wheels on, put the bucket back together and attach back to the body. put the engine back on. Ill have to wax it, now that the unit has been repainted ...  Then put the newly painted handles back on, and connect the rods back up.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

You are moving through this fast.
Thanks for all the detail you are giving us. I like your spring tool you made. What's does the spring do? It will look sharp when finished.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks Ariensboy,

That spring you see is the what pulls the friction disc onto the drive plate. On these models, the friction disc is always under tension, and when in gear its this spring that holds it. When these machines are in Neutral, there is a tab on the friction disc bracket that holds the disc off of the drive plate.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

It will be like a brand new old machine. Looking good. Were you able to get all new stickers and labels for it?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Coby,

Some of the "Caution" ones I was able to tape off … I think I located the shift selection decal, and I may just pick up a regular "Ariens" sticker for the bucket, as the original was to far gone.

Update: I just ordered the original Ariens Sno-Thro decal, as well as the shifter position decal from Vintage Reproductions … a little pricey, but I went this far ...


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, the re-assemble continues. I had only a little time today, enough to mount the new tires, and finish the assembly of the main body unit.

Tomorrow, hopefully in between errands, I'll get to assembling the bucket, and get that attached.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Looking good! Your choice of colors are great! Are the tire size 4.10 x 3.50--6". Do you use tubes in tires? Dang wheels look new. Mine are rusty as [email protected]$$ Thanks for pictures


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Ariensboy,

The tires are the XTrac by Carlisle, 13X4.00-6 … they were like 18.97 each w/free shipping on Amazon. The 13 is basically the inches high when filled, the 4.00 is for a 4 inch wide rim, and the 6 is the inches of the rim diameter. You can get them in many various sizes, according to your rims.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPV3XVZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On some of my machines, I have split rims which I purchased years ago locally from brick and mortar shop. You can get them now online. I have since purchased the mini tire changer from Harbor Freight. What a great machine for the removal and mounting of small tires on there small rims. Just make sure using it, you have a good tire lube.

For the split rims I use a tube after I clean them up, prime them, then paint them white.. For the solid rims, I clean them up good, prime and paint them, then pull in a new stem. Tubeless is the only way to go on these small one piece tubless rims … I have heard of so many people destroying the tube trying to install them in tires on a tubeless rim. Having the right material and tools is the key to these small tires.

Even if you scratch the freshly painted rim, just take the can of spray paint, in my case white, spray some into the cap from the spray can, and use a very small brush, like one from model painting, you can get them from Walmart, or any craft store. BTW, that is how you also would do any minor touch up from season to season.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Thanks for the tips. Looking forward to the finished restoration pictures!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yesterday I only had time to clean and paint some final assembly parts, even getting the smallest nuts and bolts painted … , its all about the details.

I also put together a set of wheels I refurbished for one of my other blowers, and threw in a photo of the mini tire changer from Harbor Freight that I use.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Wow, even the nuts and bolts. What paint did you use for them? When I change out the tires one day, I will need to pick up the tire changer. Looks good!


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Oneacer, I have the same tire changer and it’s great, But how do you mount the lugged rims on it, I have a set of 4 lug 8” rims I want to change the tires on but not sure how I will mount them.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I was able to get the bucket back together, and ready to mate it with the main body, making sure everything is lubed properly. Now I have to go to the gym … starting an exercise program … lol, not sure how that will pan out …

@Dauntae,

That is a great tire changer. It has a good instruction booklet, but here how it works basically.

You remove everything off the main shaft, leaving just the rubber coated bottom plate, then if it is a rim with just the 3/4 or 1 inch shaft hole, just slide it over the main shaft and lock it down with the tabbed threaded top lock piece. If it is a bolt patter rim, just slide it over the main shaft, the slide the tapered rim lock piece, then the 2 plastic spacers, then lock it all down with the red tabbed threaded top piece. Now you need a good tire lube, put it on the tire beads, and you can usually push the bottom bead on, and then using the included mounting too, slide it over the shaft, slip it under the top bead and holding one side if the tire while pushing down on it, rotate the tool around the main shaft, thus bring the tire onto the rim completely.

Note, it will require a good tire lube, and also easier when you heat the tire as well.

Note also: Some tires, like the XTrac, are direction specific, so make sure the stem fill side is out while on the machine, and the tires facing forward for the correct right or left rim direction..


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just got in the original new decals today, mine were damaged, … very well packed ….


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Moving along ….. I put the new original decal on the bucket, looks great … the one for the shifter gear numbers is a clear background, which would have been ok on the newly painted orange, but I painted a white background, as the original decal had from factory, like showing on my 10M6. This way, it will stand out better.

I always use spray can caps for small cups as needed, in this case, for grease, using a small brush, for putting around the underside rim of the chute, before installing the 3 guides that get bolted on.

The assembly looks so good, now I have to polish the engine before I put that back on …


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Looking great, On the tire changer I agree as I own it lol, I just have not tried the lugged wheels yet but I was forgetting about that angled spacer so should work well, For tire lube I actually use foam cleaner as it’s slippery as anything and when on it wipes off leaving a nice clean rubber surface and rim to put bead sealer on, I put a Ratchet strap around the center of the tire and tighten it up a little then a puff of air and pops both beads on quick and easy. May try swapping the snow hogs on my 11526 with a craftsman’s x-Trak type tires as the craftsman is a cheap sell blower with tires too nice to let go with it lol both have 8” rims


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Dauntae,

Thanks, … cleaning up the engine, then put on the handle bars, and then the rods and brackets … I also ordered some universal swivel knuckles, to finally fix the chute rod path properly …  I had it in a temporary fix since I put the new engine on years ago.

I also keep a ratchet strap by the changer as well, as I have also done the same thing …

I actually picked up a small tub of actual tire lube, works great. I like using the black tire sealer also, wipes right off if it gets on the rim, and good insurance for a good seal.

I totally would keep the XTrac if you have a machine for them, and are planning on selling the Craftsman.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Yup these are the tires getting swapped, Had it ready to sell and when testing it out crank seal blew out and smoke pouring out of the front, no cracks but needs engine so found a doner and keeping the tires.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Coming along nicely! Decals look great! For the shifter, how did you paint the white on, spray or hand paint? Looks like you taped off orange.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Ariensboy,

Yes, I taped off the orange, and hand painted the white .... I'll put the shifter decal on it tomorrow .... had to quit for today ... I'll be volunteering tomorrow, maybe after that I'll have time to get back on it. I'm looking forward to the final outcome myself ..... I think I may take and do a complete restore on my 10M6 in the spring , it's enjoyable .... They were talking snow for the end of the week, now looks more like rain...... Too bad, I have plenty machines in eager anticipation ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Shifter bracket came out nice …..


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## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

Your craftsmanship is incredible. I’ve enjoyed watching and reading posts. Make sure to post a vid or two when it’s up and running.


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## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

oneacer said:


> @dooitorbust,
> 
> 
> That is not my Craftsman, although I do have a smaller version that I had given to me that I brought back to life. That particular one posted by Dauntae has a blown engine.




Craftsmanship... not the Craftsman brand. You do very nice work.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@dooitorbust,

Thank you …. it is an enjoyable endeavor to restore these machines. They were so well built.


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

dooitorbust said:


> Craftsmanship... not the Craftsman brand. You do very nice work.


How do you like your Snapper....I noticed your LED light....How do you like that???

Heard those were very solid machines(Snapper 8230 Tage Large Frame Snowthrower)....I remember one member saying he had one and it was unstoppable???


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

oneacer said:


> Shifter bracket came out nice …..


Wow better than new!!!!


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## dooitorbust (Aug 15, 2018)

SimplicitySolid22 said:


> How do you like your Snapper....I noticed your LED light....How do you like that???
> 
> Heard those were very solid machines(Snapper 8230 Tage Large Frame Snowthrower)....I remember one member saying he had one and it was unstoppable???




I won’t highjack this thread but it’s awesome. I’ve got an 18v Milwaukee battery running it now. PM me if you want some more info.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

oneacer said:


> Shifter bracket came out nice …..


Shifter is awesome! Good job! I will be interested in seeing your chute mod. I put a 212 predator on my 10,000 series this summer and did the sprocket tilt. I added about 6" of 3/8" rod and ran it thru a thin metal strapping I got from home Depot. It has 3/8" holes in it. I cut and bent in vise with help of hammer. I used 3/8" drill bit and reamed out hole a little to allow rod to turn easy. Added the swivel and brought it up thru original eye bolt, so it's like it was from factory 1969. I will look forward to your M10 restoration this spring.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, after some time where no one bothered me, I finally had time to finish the assembly. I am only waiting on a universal 3/8 swivel knuckle, and a set of poly skids.

She came out great, runs awesome. I am looking forward to doing a complete nuts and bolt restoration on my 10M6 in the Spring … Or maybe start it this winter if I have time.....


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

She's a beauty, @oneacer!


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

very nice


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Outstanding restoration! Can't t wait to see your chute mod. What are you using to run the short rod thru to stabilize it before you run it up towards operator. Thanks for sharing and all the pictures!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks, …. I am very pleased with the end results. I will certainly be doing my 10M6 for sure in the near future, as that is my next in line oldest machine … 

@Ariensboy,

I ordered universal knuckles, and they came in yesterday, along with the skids, which I am going to try these poly with the wheel in it, as they were on sale for only 20.00 a pair.

My intention is to be returning the chute crank rod back to its original position area, which was between the handle bars. I plan on extending a short rod out from the chute toothed wheel gear, clearing the engine, then install one of the new universal knuckles, and continue with the crank rod up through its original eye bolt. I have not yet finalized on how I am going to stabilize the in line universal knuckle yet, to keep it from swaying, but probably with another eye bolt, fashioned to either the engine or maybe welded or bolted to the handle bar, without drilling the handle bar, as you really don't want to do that and chance weakening it, as the handle bars are taking a lot of stress force moving around any machine of that weight. Or maybe some type of cable clamp for the rod to rotate in? I'll have to assess my options as I go, and figure something out that will look and function properly. I will certainly post back here on my final decision of placement.

Today I have to set up a roll around tool box for my sister, and pick up another compressor for my house garage, as my brother-in-law is moving, and not taking his compressor, … lucky me …  …. maybe later today if I have time to get to it.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

oneacer said:


> ...the skids, which I am going to try these poly with the wheel in it, as they were on sale for only 20.00 a pair.


I've been using those roller skids on my Honda and my son's Troy-Bilt for a couple of years. I think you'll like them!


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

My intention is to be returning the chute crank rod back to its original position area, which was between the handle bars. I plan on extending a short rod out from the chute toothed wheel gear, clearing the engine, then install one of the new universal knuckles, and continue with the crank rod up through its original eye bolt. I have not yet finalized on how I am going to stabilize the in line universal knuckle yet, to keep it from swaying, but probably with another eye bolt, fashioned to either the engine or maybe welded or bolted to the handle bar, without drilling the handle bar, as you really don't want to do that and chance weakening it, as the handle bars are taking a lot of stress force moving around any machine of that weight. Or maybe some type of cable clamp for the rod to rotate in? I'll have to assess my options as I go, and figure something out that will look and function properly. I will certainly post back here on my final decision of placement.

I will take a picture of mine tomorrow and post for you to see.

Skids look great.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Ariensboy,



Yeah, do that ... I would like to see.


I did have time to cut the short rod extension, drill the center for the existing cotter pin, then ran that past the engine, through an eye bolt, which I fashioned through a piece of square hollow aluminum stock, put the new universal knuckle on, and brought it up in the middle through the existing eye bolt ... Looks good.


I had to go help my sister, then had a family dinner over there.


On the way home I picked up some 1" x 2" U bolts which I will use to attach to the handle bar for completion. I'll take a picture tomorrow as well, and post it here. If it works well and looks good, I'll leave it for now. Maybe later remove the U bolts, and tack weld the eye bolt to the handle bar .... well see how it all works in the field first.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Here ya go! I cut and bent in vise with help of a hammer to finish the bend. It turns better now than new. I thought 1/16 is not thick enough, but it is. Will see how it works on Monday as we are getting maybe 3". Look at my post above about three post ago for more detail.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

nice job on that repower!


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Thanks. I could NOT have done it without everyone's help! It has been fun. I'm thinking of painting in spring if I have time. I will do the wheels for sure. I will put new tires on one day, but I've used chains for the last 40+ years.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Ariensboy,

I finally got time to address the chute linkage. I did mine a bit different, bringing my crank back in the center of the machine. I also put on the new skids.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

Oneacer

Great job! You really did a wonderful restoration! You should be very proud of that machine for years to come! That chute mod is super cool, well done! 
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge! It has helped me tremendously!


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