# Honda 828 Track



## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

just picked up a Honda HS 828 track model on crags list for $250! the engine and hydrostat seem to work well but this blower has been a bit neglected but i thought i would take a chance on it. 

The foot peddle has a missing bolt that locked it into place on the right side, left side bolt is still there. The right front auger housing needs a spot weld which i think should be easy enough to fix and then paint. 

The most frustrating thing that this blower has going is that the previous owner never adjusted the scrapper bar or skid shoes and as a result of heavy use the wearing extended into the red auger housing where the scarper place bolts on. That will be the toughest to fix and i hope i can replace scrapper without to much trouble. 

the augers i think are supposed to be serrated but they appear to have ground on the pavement enough to make them smooth!

The tracks look good and the oil and gear case did have fluid in their reservoirs so at least they were not bone dry.

anyways i hope with a little elbow grease and paint i can restore this machine. I would not have paid more then $250 for it this time of year but though i would take a little risk with this one as a fun project.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

This is the result of what some of us call _*shoeless honda*_.
Ihad bought o 928 in that condition, I was able to weld extensions to the auger housing and repair it properly (it was a lot of work but came out real good).
I have not repaired the augers yet but I have a clue of how, once I put that on paper, I'll share the idea (new augers are available but very expensive and the auger housing is even more expensive).
Look at this thread:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/52130-another-shoeless-honda.html


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

hsblowersfan said:


> ...(new augers are available but very expensive and the auger housing is even more expensive).


I can confirm, sadly...a new auger housing (Honda part number 76710-768-E44) has an eye-watering _list_ price of *$1,048.90* :smiley-confused009:


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

Shoe less Honda, yep that's a perfect description for this machine. 

wow that repair looks like a nice job on your part. That took some careful craftsmanship and the right tools and equipment to pull off. 

augers from what i found are L side 294, R side 290, Scrapper $60, OEM paint $50, Skids shoes (armor skids) $41.74, Professional Honda service $80 if i decide to have it serviced this winter. 

To do all of that in parts alone would cost me $817.48 so i think ill try and keep the augers for now and try and find some used augers down the road. 

buying a new auger hosing is probably not practical, i could just buy a new machine for the price LOL but where is the fun in that?  

If the gear case would have been dry or no oil i would have passed but i was surprised. It starts and runs great and the hydro seems solid. 

Ill post more pics if the underside and show you the damage from the neglect.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

_*Iclement*_,
I have more pictures of the repair that I made to the auger, (except for the final finished repainted auger :facepalm_zpsdj194qh). If you woul like to see them let me know an I will post them. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

_*Iclement*_,
At $250, I would not feel too bad as long as the rest of the machine is fine.
I paid $450 :facepalm_zpsdj194qh for my shoeless HS928 (back then I had no idea of what to look for on a snowblower), and mine had a bad side transmission on top of that. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh :facepalm_zpsdj194qh :facepalm_zpsdj194qh.

Good thing is that I was able to fix it (except the augers that I used out of a HS828 that I had with some issues) and sell it for a small profit. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

here is a Dropbox link that has more pics of the underside scrapper plate area that shows the damage. 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6ye25les3obzles/AACoWZwYhpPIAjW2u2R1cksGa?dl=0 

I think i can grind down the jagged metal and weld on a strip of new metal and drill holes for the the the new scrapper bar.

Question what type of metal should be used?


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

hsblowersfan said:


> _*Iclement*_,
> At $250, I would not feel too bad as long as the rest of the machine is fine.
> I paid $450 :facepalm_zpsdj194qh for my shoeless HS928 (back then I had no idea of what to look for on a snowblower), and mine had a bad side transmission on top of that. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh :facepalm_zpsdj194qh :facepalm_zpsdj194qh.
> 
> Good thing is that I was able to fix it (except the augers that I used out of a HS828 that I had with some issues) and sell it for a small profit. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


Yes if the hydro is bad then well it is to $$$ to replace with a new one, so that leaves one in a tough spot... I think i'm good there as well as the engine. If my hydro does turn out to be junk im only out $250 so not the end of the world.

One benefit of living in Iowa is that we get just enough snow for some people to but these types of machines new, then you get to find them cheap on CL when one no longer wants them or they move south for retirement. If we were farther north then the used resale on used machines would be much higher imagine.


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> I can confirm, sadly...a new auger housing (Honda part number 76710-768-E44) has an eye-watering _list_ price of *$1,048.90* :smiley-confused009:


Robert, i need a part, i think its a bolt of some sort that engages into the foot peddle and is used to lock the right side to keep the machine level. not sure what the part is called, trying to find a number. 

The left side foot peddle bolt is there but right side is missing. i hope that is easy to replace. 

serial number for mine is SZAK-2000403


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

You may find it here, or browse on the site and see if you can find it.

All Years HS828 TAS Honda Snowblower HEIGHT ADJUSTING PLATE Diagram and Parts 

:smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

hsblowersfan said:


> You may find it here, or browse on the site and see if you can find it.
> 
> All Years HS828 TAS Honda Snowblower HEIGHT ADJUSTING PLATE Diagram and Parts
> 
> :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


thanks man! looks like I need 3, 5, 7, and 8 for right side (standing behind machine) 

i posted more pic in my dropbox link, i got the scapper plate off just now. had to cut some of the curled metal away to get a socket on the bolts. now trying to decide if i can bend curled metal back with torch heat or if ill need to cut it away and try and weld new metal...? thoughts?

drop box link https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6ye25les3obzles/AACoWZwYhpPIAjW2u2R1cksGa?dl=0


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

lclement said:


> thanks man! looks like I need 3, 5, 7, and 8 for right side (standing behind machine)
> 
> i posted more pic in my dropbox link, i got the scapper plate off just now. had to cut some of the curled metal away to get a socket on the bolts. now trying to decide if i can bend curled metal back with torch heat or if ill need to cut it away and try and weld new metal...? thoughts?
> 
> drop box link https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6ye25les3obzles/AACoWZwYhpPIAjW2u2R1cksGa?dl=0


I agree 3,5,7 and 8 should be what you need, you may want to consider replacing then on both sides.

If it was me on the auger housing I would mark a straight line and cut off all the damaged metal to weld new metal in. The best spot to make the line may be leaving about 5mm of the slots for the scaper bar mounting holes (that way you make sure to keep the housing straight and you will have the location of the holes still in place).
I used standard sheet metal from the hardware store (same thickness as the auger housing.
For the edges I did a 90 degree bend to reinforce it, but you may want to use a 1/4" or 5/15" round rod to make it even stronger (I think it was Dodge who sugested that).


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

thanks for the pics, i didn't know you could take off the sides to the auger housing? 

I heated up all of the curled and straightened as much of it as i could. I think i was able to salvage some of it but its still pretty jagged. When the new scraper shows up i am going to see how it lines up. If i can get it to work without having to cut all that out i may try it. If things dont look quite right then ill be forced to have to removed a strip of metal and try and weld a new section in which would definitely the best option for looks and to resell or trade down the road. Might be time for me to sharpen my metal working skills again. 

I plan on drilling holes in the sides panels to install Armour Skids. I dont think this model had the holes pre drilled but if it did they were probably ground through...

the Armour skids should keep the auger hosing from ever touching the ground again.

What gauge is the Honda auger hosing sheet metal? Anyone know? I will see if my hardware store had any.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

The auger housing sides on the pictures are from an HS80 (it was just to show you what you could do with the edges). The HS828 auger housing is a singe assembly (sides do not come off).
As far as I know it did not have an option for side skids, so you will have to drill holes on the sides of the auger housig for it.


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## wdb (Dec 15, 2013)

Wow that is one beat up blower. Seeing these shoeless Hondas makes me glad I moved my skids onto the auger housing!


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Wow, it's sad to see such a nice machine in such rough shape. Who keeps using a machine when the serrated augers start hitting the ground?? 

Good luck with the repairs! hsblowersfan, nice work on yours, that looks great.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

RedOctobyr said:


> Wow, it's sad to see such a nice machine in such rough shape. Who keeps using a machine when the serrated augers start hitting the ground??
> 
> Good luck with the repairs! hsblowersfan, nice work on yours, that looks great.


Thank you.
Evantually I will have to repair a couple of Honda auger housings and augers as well, I will try to do a complete tutorial with good pictures and description from beginning to end. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

The augers and housing are worn terribly. But for $250 it's pretty hard to go wrong. They're great machines, I wouldn't run anything else at this point other than maybe a Yamaha.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> The augers and housing are worn terribly. But for $250 it's pretty hard to go wrong. They're great machines, I wouldn't run anything else at this point other than maybe a Yamaha.


I think the same way, Honda and Yamaha are expensive but a very well built product, and well worth the extra cost (IMHO).


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

Thanks for all the feedback, yes she is beat up… I think I can get it back to working order though. A tutorial would be great! It is infuriating to see such a machine to be treated like that… I mean how someone can continue to operate a Honda while the darn augers are grinding on the pavement. I know augers sometimes do hit the ground but when that happens you are supped to check heights… 

Yes ill add the holes for the armor skids, have them on my Honda 1132 and they work well.

I am still looking at the housing to determine the best options, have a few ideas but I need to practice my welding on thin sheet metal… in the past I have only welded thinker metals and not had a chance to burn though with the mig welder.


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> The augers and housing are worn terribly. But for $250 it's pretty hard to go wrong. They're great machines, I wouldn't run anything else at this point other than maybe a Yamaha.


yes i agree, if we could yamaha parts i would consider one but no one sells them in the USA and advanced service is no where to be found. 

I like Honda because i can order parts easily and they are quality machines. They are expensive no doubt but if one has a long driver way and does not want to own a plow/blade i don't think you can go wrong. 

Ariens are also good but i don't think they are built quite like Honda these days.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

For welding thin stuff, you may want to use a backing plate. A piece of a different metal, like copper, brass, aluminum, etc, laid (clamped) behind the thin pieces you're welding. 

That way, you'll have an easier time welding the 2 items together, and it should help reduce the likelihood of simply burning a hole through them. It provides kind of a backstop, and helps draw away excess heat. But because it's not steel (and preferably it's also thicker than the items you're welding), you won't actually weld to it. 

If you have some scraps of thin steel, and a scap of some other material, try it out. Butt the two thin steel pieces against each other, and clamp the other item behind them, and see how it goes welding the two together. Try it without the backing plate as well. 

I'm not terribly good with my welder (MIG), so I would definitely use a backer if I had to weld thin stuff like that together


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

RedOctobyr said:


> For welding thin stuff, you may want to use a backing plate. A piece of a different metal, like copper, brass, aluminum, etc, laid (clamped) behind the thin pieces you're welding.
> 
> That way, you'll have an easier time welding the 2 items together, and it should help reduce the likelihood of simply burning a hole through them. It provides kind of a backstop, and helps draw away excess heat. But because it's not steel (and preferably it's also thicker than the items you're welding), you won't actually weld to it.
> 
> ...


I'd never thought of this, that is an excellent idea. I should try it to. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:

What I have seen is the 2 thin pieces to be joint held by a large magnet to keep them level to each other, perhaps this also works as a backing plate. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

RedOctobyr said:


> For welding thin stuff, you may want to use a backing plate. A piece of a different metal, like copper, brass, aluminum, etc, laid (clamped) behind the thin pieces you're welding.
> 
> That way, you'll have an easier time welding the 2 items together, and it should help reduce the likelihood of simply burning a hole through them. It provides kind of a backstop, and helps draw away excess heat. But because it's not steel (and preferably it's also thicker than the items you're welding), you won't actually weld to it.
> 
> ...


from watching you-tube videos on thin metal welding they said the angle you hold the gun can change the temperature... gun held at a 45 degree angle would be cooler and the gun held straight on makes it hotter. So if you burn through you back fill at a 45 degree angel to fix the hole. I never knew that... 

Angle of gun 




short bursts 




I'm sure there are other great techniques to learn also.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

hsblowersfan said:


> I'd never thought of this, that is an excellent idea. I should try it to. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:
> 
> What I have seen is the 2 thin pieces to be joint held by a large magnet to keep them level to each other, perhaps this also works as a backing plate. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


That might work. The one time I needed to try the backer idea, I had a piece of scrap aluminum around, which worked. 

It might be a non-issue with the magnet behind the pieces being welded. But I was using a magnet to help secure two items one time, and I couldn't get a good arc going. It was all over the place, and not consistent. I wasn't sure if the welder was having a problem, so I tried welding a bead on another item, and that was fine. I realized the magnet was too close to where I was welding (I think it was also on top, "visible", rather than behind the items), and was messing with the arc. Moved the magnet away, and it was fine. Just something to keep in mind. 

lclement, thanks for the videos!


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I've seen the magnet technique to hold the 2 pieces together on automotive body work repair. Perhaps this will work just for tack or stich welding as you really can not run a bead of weld on thin metal or it will distord badly. 
I have never tried the magnet trick so I can not share my experience with it.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

lclement said:


> from watching you-tube videos on thin metal welding they said the angle you hold the gun can change the temperature... gun held at a 45 degree angle would be cooler and the gun held straight on makes it hotter. So if you burn through you back fill at a 45 degree angel to fix the hole. I never knew that...
> 
> Angle of gun https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4q1TExpmfY
> 
> ...


angling the gun doesnt make the weld cooler, it makes the metal being welded seem thicker than it really is.....if that makes sense!


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

nwcove said:


> angling the gun doesnt make the weld cooler, it makes the metal being welded seem thicker than it really is.....if that makes sense!


I does make sense, for example on a 1/16" inch (16 gauge) as if you are welding at 90 degrees (staight up) you are welding on a 1/16" thick metal. Now if we turn the nozzle to 45 degrees you'll be welding on a 3/32" (13 gauge).









X (vertical)=90 degrees (straight up).
XV2=45 degrees.
Considering X=1 (1/16") , 1V2=1.41 (about 3/32")
(sorry about the "V" caracter I did not know how to get the proper caracter) 

I hope I made sense. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


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## lclement (Jun 23, 2014)

nwcove said:


> angling the gun doesnt make the weld cooler, it makes the metal being welded seem thicker than it really is.....if that makes sense!


i see, and in doing so by holding the gun at an angle the metal absorbs more heat and therefore not burn through as easily.

I understand the concept and can see why some would think the gun runs cooler when angled but it seems that's an honest misconception.


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