# Ariens Deluxe 30 First Oil Change



## pckeen

Hi, 

I'm not near the manual at this time. I need to do the first 5 hour oil change. What oil should I use, and are there any filters I should replace?


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## 1894

I believe 5w-30 . no oil filter on mine.


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## knu2xs

Here's a little on the oil aspect........

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...cussion/35025-conventional-synthetic-oil.html


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## UNDERTAKER

after the 5 hour break in period you can use synthetic oil in it. I myself run 10w30 oil. the brand name is of your choosing.


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## Normex

pckeen said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm not near the manual at this time. I need to do the first 5 hour oil change. What oil should I use, and are there any filters I should replace?


 I would put synthetic 5w-30 as it protects your engine better with temperature extremes.


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## liftoff1967

To make life a little easier on you, assuming your drain plug is above the right tire like mine is, you should pop off that tire. Easy to do, just take off the spring clip deal on the axle. Once you block up that side. I block mine so it leans to that side. Kinda a 3 legged stool if you will


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## UNDERTAKER

liftoff1967 said:


> To make life a little easier on you, assuming your drain plug is above the right tire like mine is, you should pop off that tire. Easy to do, just take off the spring clip deal on the axle. Once you block up that side. I block mine so it leans to that side. Kinda a 3 legged stool if you will


 didn't you get that DRAIN ZIT thing I told you about?????????


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## liftoff1967

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> didn't you get that DRAIN ZIT thing I told you about?????????


This spring I will put that on.


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## Ryan

Mobil-1 5W30 Full Synthetic. Next question for the group... is there any type of lube for the augers up front? if so what to use?


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## Normex

Ryan said:


> Mobil-1 5W30 Full Synthetic. Next question for the group... is there any type of lube for the augers up front? if so what to use?


 You must mean for the gear case and some units take 80w-90 and some take 0 grease. Better check your manual for the proper one.


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## Bror Jace

I think B&S recommends synthetic 5W-30 for most of their engines ... especially snowblower engines that may have to be started in frigid temps.

I use Yeti Blood. It took me 10 years to find it. But I found it ... and that's what counts: 

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee149/BrorJace/Oil Analysis/Chevron_Delo_0W-30_large.jpg

If the unit is stored in heated space, any XW-30 oil will work ... 0W-30, 5W-30 10W-30 or even straight 30 (although I am not a fan of straight weights).

I would NOT go 5 hours before the first change. Look what my factory oil after just 1.5 hours of run time (B&S 250cc OHV)

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee149/BrorJace/Oil Analysis/Snowblower_OilSample_zps40854167.jpg

I would recommend changing it at the 2 hour mark, again at the 5 hour mark then a 3rd time at the 10-12 hour mark. Then do it once per season or about every 40-50 hours if you are using it a lot.


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## Bror Jace

The gear case or front differential on an Ariens requires the Ariens brand gear lube. Anything else would void the warranty (Grrr.)

http://mowerpartsgroup.com/img/Ariens%20L3%20Lube.jpg

This stuff should be available anywhere Ariens machines and parts are sold.

I really hate OEM lubricants. They are usually mediocre performers at an astronomical price. If I were to take a chance and go aftermarket, it would be something like Schaeffer Oil, Amsoil Severe Gear or (better yet) Red Line Oil Shockproof gear oils.


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## Town

My manual says to change the engine oil after the first month. The dealer mechanic also said to change the oil after the first month. I have had my machine running for well over 5 hours and the oil is clear and just like new. Where does the 5 hour change come from? 

After the first month oil change the recommendation is to change the engine oil every 40 hours of operation or once per year whichever comes first. 

The oil recommendation is automotive detergent oil 5W-30. I am going to use Mobil 1 0W-30 (purchased already) which is rated as a 5W-30 replacement. I use Mobil 1 0W-20 in my car since it is rated as a 5W-20 replacement. The advantage of synthetic oil for me is that it will flow more quickly to all engine lubricated parts much quicker than conventional oil will.

Regarding the gearcase lubricant, Ariens changed to a synthetic lubricant and warn against substitution. The lubricant is Ariens L3 synthetic severe duty gear lube (part # 00068800). I don't know when this spec was introduced so you should check your owner manual; your warranty may be voided with the wrong spec lubricant.

Good luck.


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## Normex

Bror Jace said:


> The gear case or front differential on an Ariens requires the Ariens brand hear lube. Anything else would void the warranty (Grrr.)
> 
> I fail to see for the warranty period that your gear case oil level would lower to the point of needing to add any unless you have a gasket leaking.
> The oil Ariens submit to use is of very good quality and for saying otherwise you would need lab results of both lube companies to compare.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Town said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where does the 5 hour change come from?
> 
> The oil recommendation is automotive detergent oil 5W-30. I am going to use Mobil 1 0W-30 (purchased already) which is rated as a 5W-30 replacement. The advantage of synthetic oil for me is that it will flow more quickly to all engine lubricated parts much quicker than conventional oil will.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an email from a LCT engine tech that mentions the 5 hr change for all LCT new engine break in. Town when you will remove your break in oil you will see it will be far from clean as it will contain many specks of metal.
> I agree fully with you changing to synthetic oil.
Click to expand...


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## Toro-8-2-4

Regarding the Ariens L3 gear lube, take a look at this post.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/general-snowblower-discussion/3545-gear-lube.html


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## Town

Normex said:


> I have an email from a LCT engine tech that mentions the 5 hr change for all LCT new engine break in. Town when you will remove your break in oil you will see it will be far from clean as it will contain many specks of metal.
> I agree fully with you changing to synthetic oil.


Point taken, I was referring to the colour as an indication of excess fuel getting into the oil. But the production of metal particles will not stop after 5 hours, or even slow down that much, it is a lifelong reality. I think the Ariens and LCT official guide of changing the oil after a month of use is a better compromise to eliminate the highest rate of contaminant production. Just an opinion.

Good luck.


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## eddie1976

Normex said:


> I have an email from a LCT engine tech that mentions the 5 hr change for all LCT new engine break in. Town when you will remove your break in oil you will see it will be far from clean as it will contain many specks of metal.
> I agree fully with you changing to synthetic oil.


Do Ariens get special "break in" oil or is it just 5w30 put in at the dealer?


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## Bror Jace

*Normex*, you are probably right about the oil level in the front diff/gearbox. It should not require added oil for years. My comment about OEM lubes was not to disparage Ariens L3 lube, it was OEM lubes in general. I'm sure L3 is at least decent, if not really good. But an 8oz bottle costs $15 (on Amazon). That's $60 per quart! I'd rather spend $15-20+ on a quart of specialty aftermarket oil I _know_ is a winner (names I mentioned above). Shockproof in particular has loads of suspended molybdenum and could probably protect well enough to be considered a lifetime fill.

*Town*, engines shed a TON of metal when they are new and still breaking in. That's what my picture above proves. You'll see the amount of visible mental decreases as the machine becomes fully broken in. 

Also, the metal quickly sinks to the bottom of the sump so you are not likely to see it on the dipstick. When you drain your oil (while it's hot!), have a lead light or flashlight handy so you can take a good look at the endless sparklies in the pan. You'll be dazzled.  

I also use a top-oil such as Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO), Lucas UCL or TCW3 2-stroke when the engine is fresh to help the rings break-in gradually. This approach seems to produce a very tight engine that gives max compression and low oil consumption.


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## Bror Jace

*Eddie1976*: _"Do Ariens get special 'break-in' oil or is it just 5w30 put in at the dealer?"_

Special break-in oils used by manufacturers (or dealers) are very rare. Even doing a UOA won't prove anything as you won't be able to look at the additives and tell what was in the oil versus what was in the assembly lube used when the engine was put together.


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## pckeen

Thanks for the comments everyone - I confirmed with Ariens - it was 5W-30. I was surprised how grey the oil was after the 5 hours.

To answer some questions above - the 5 hours came from the manual...5 hours...a month's use - probably about the same thing. 

As for lube - if you mean gearcase oil, I'm not sure - if you are referring to lube for the grease zerks on the augurs, I was told (and did), use marine grease. Seems to work fine.

I was lucky - my Ariens has two drain plugs, one above the wheel, one at the 'front' of the engine (back of the snowblower). I used the one at the back.


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## Bror Jace

_" I was surprised how grey the oil was after the 5 hours."_

I wouldn't be. Dad has a lot of OPE that I used to take care of ... everyone of them turned the oil silver in their first few hours of operation. It's the nature of these engines. They must build 'em tight and just assume they'll wear in properly to spec. That, however, results in a lot of metal shavings in the oil. It's best to get rid of that a couple times before you settle into regular maintenance intervals.

So, you'll see some excess metal in the next drain as well ... but this will taper off once you get to the 12-15 hour mark.

_"my Ariens has two drain plugs, one above the wheel, one at the 'front' of the engine (back of the snowblower). I used the one at the back."_

I think the one on the side (above the wheel) is simply cast into the base of the crankcase. The one on the back is the one to use ... makes oil changes easier than any other piece of equipment. Plenty of room to place a catch-pan under the spout. If you want a really thorough drain, put a chunk of wood under the front of the machine so it tilts back some and let it sit that way overnight.

"lube" is a generic term for any lubricant. Your engine takes motor oil (5W30). Your front diff takes gear oil or grease if you see a zerk fitting.


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## AriensSnowman

Bror Jace said:


> Special break-in oils used by manufacturers (or dealers) are very rare.


The only manufacturer I know for a fact that still uses a special break-in oil is John Deere for their tractors. Our new farm tractor's manual specifically states you must use this break-in oil exclusively for the first 100 hours. Then regular oil every 300 hours. Now this is for a full size diesel utility tractor, not a small snowblower. The engine also needs to be run extremely hard during that time under heavy load to get the rings to seat. If not they will burn oil after the break-in. Very different break-in regimen from most gas engines.


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## Bror Jace

Yes, *AriensSnowman*, some use special break-in oil. In addition to your JD example, I remember Honda did so for many of their cars about a decade ago. The factory fill was _loaded_ with molybdenum and they told customers to leave it in for at least a few thousand miles before dumping it. I think they only did this for 2-3 years.

As you said, when breaking in any engine, be sure to vary the RPMs and load to get the rings to seat correctly. Do not run at high RPMs with no load for any length of time.


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## Shryp

Bror Jace said:


> Yes, *AriensSnowman*, some use special break-in oil. In addition to your JD example, I remember Honda did so for many of their cars about a decade ago. The factory fill was _loaded_ with molybdenum and they told customers to leave it in for at least a few thousand miles before dumping it. I think they only did this for 2-3 years.
> 
> As you said, when breaking in any engine, be sure to vary the RPMs and load to get the rings to seat correctly. Do not run at high RPMs with no load for any length of time.


I have an older Honda CR-V and belong to a message board for that as well. Posts on the newer models and oil changes indicate that they are still using a special break in oil with high molybdenum and that you are suppose to leave it in until it is time for an oil change.


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## Bror Jace

Good to know *Shryp*. I haven't really talked to Honda owners on-line in some time. I did not get any special instruction regarding my '06 Civic and my '05 S2000 was purchased 2nd hand.


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## New_HondaHS35

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> didn't you get that DRAIN ZIT thing I told you about?????????


what size Drain Zit do you order for a newer Ariens?


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## liftoff1967

New_HondaHS35 said:


> what size Drain Zit do you order for a newer Ariens?


Thus the reason I'm waiting till spring for this mod. Will need to remove some parts, and take them somewhere to find out what size the threads are.


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## New_HondaHS35

liftoff1967 said:


> Thus the reason I'm waiting till spring for this mod. Will need to remove some parts, and take them somewhere to find out what size the threads are.


what parts besides just the oil drain bolt? it's a 10mm wrench


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## liftoff1967

New_HondaHS35 said:


> what parts besides just the oil drain bolt? it's a 10mm wrench


I have an "extension pipe", if you will. I do not know that size the threads are on said "extension pipe". Once I have the size of those threads, I will be able to pick up the correct size Drain it z thingie. 

Unless I'm not understanding it all that well,,,,,


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## New_HondaHS35

liftoff1967 said:


> I have an "extension pipe", if you will. I do not know that size the threads are on said "extension pipe". Once I have the size of those threads, I will be able to pick up the correct size Drain it z thingie.
> 
> Unless I'm not understanding it all that well,,,,,


I have an Ariens too, I just changed the oil. the design sucks, mine has the metal tube with a bolt in the end. I could measure it tomorrow, it seems like it will be 10mm too. the site lists a few different sizes to order. If someone doesn't answer, I will find out. A person could just use a hose and push it over the post. sometimes we go overboard


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## Bror Jace

I like the Ariens set-up as is. Our snowblowers are the easiest oil change I've ever done. Just loosen the cap or the plug, drain and re-tighten. You can't ask for better access. 

When you get the cap/plug off, clean the threads with a wire brush and replace the sealant with Teflon tape. Then, when replacing the cap/plug, just snug it down a bit. No leaks and only moderate effort to remove it next time. 

Regarding the stock cap or plug, are they NPT fittings? Nominal Pipe Thread?


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## Ryan

The stuff in my Deluxe 30 was pretty creamy/milky looking after about 5 hours of use. Did a drain and fill with Mobil-1 5W30 Full Synthetic, going to run that for about 5 hours, and then another drain and fill to see how things have progressed.

The front and rear diffs on the trucks I've owned have also been yuckie looking after about 15,000 miles on the factory filled oil.


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## liftoff1967

Bror Jace said:


> Just loosen the cap or the plug, drain and re-tighten. You can't ask for better access.


Ahh, for those of us with the deluxe 30 291 cc motor, you have to add in "remove right wheel" as step #1. Then proceed as you indicate. Then of course re install right wheel as final step.

Go to the 6 minute mark to see what I'm typing about.


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## Bror Jace

Wow, *liftoff1967*, that's like my Dad's old John Deere (which has gone off to that massive snow drift in the sky). It was a messy pain to change oil. 

If that were my machine, I'd rig up some sort of extension. Ideally it would be hard piping ... but you could use a 90 degree fitting and either a cap or a ball valve. When changing the oil, simply attach a piece of hose to get the oil to go where you want it ... instead of down the side of the machine.

I will say, though, that one side of Dad's John Deere never rusted a bit!


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