# Switch missing from electric start



## gossamer (Apr 25, 2015)

I picked up an MTD 316E660G552 28" (any idea what model this is, or how to find it?) with electric start from the neighborhood, replaced the carb, and it now runs well.

It appears the previous owner took the actual switch out of the housing that sits on top of the engine. The housing is there, but the wires inside just have wire nuts on them, but there's no actual switch to engage the electric start.

It's a Tecumseh 10hp engine. I'm pretty sure this is the electric start, but I doubt I'd be able to recover these costs in a resale.








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How involved is it to replace the electric start? Is there much more than removing the pull-start housing to get to the flywheel?

Any ideas, or is it necessary to replace the whole electric start mechanism?


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

I've worked on my Toro Powerlites and Honda 520 & 621 snowblowers. On those, replacing the electric start module (elect motor & switch/plug) is straightforward wrenching. You might have to disconnect the carb's throttle connection and choke but the work is not difficult.

If the PO has bypassed the switch with wirenuts, your starter might work when you plug an extension cord into the male plug in the recess on the snowblower. It is possible his switch broke and this was a quick and easy fix. You will have to remove the ext. cord quickly once the engine fires or you might damage the starter motor.

For my personal use, I'd put in the new starter. Pulling a recoil starter on a recalcitrant engine when you have to blow the drive to get your car out is not fun, and I've strained my back and arm on different occasions trying to start small engines. If you are fixing this for resale, it is a different situation, but I'd not buy a snowblower without a working electric starter if the model says it once had one.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I'd see if the starter works if you plug it in. If it does, it is possible to buy just the switch:









HQRP Push Button On-Off Switch Compatible with Tecumseh Starter Switch 33329 33329A 33329B 33329C 33329D 33329E 33329F 33519 33519A 33519B 33542 33542A UL Listed: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement


HQRP Push Button On-Off Switch Compatible with Tecumseh Starter Switch 33329 33329A 33329B 33329C 33329D 33329E 33329F 33519 33519A 33519B 33542 33542A UL Listed: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement



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However, you'd also need the rubber cover that goes over the switch, which isn't available by itself.

Your next option would be to buy the switch + wiring like this:









Tecumseh 2-Prong Electric Starter Motor Switch 120 VAC Momentary Closed | eBay


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## gossamer (Apr 25, 2015)

db130 said:


> I'd see if the starter works if you plug it in. If it does, it is possible to buy just the switch:
> ...
> However, you'd also need the rubber cover that goes over the switch, which isn't available by itself.


That's a good idea. I'll investigate that in the morning. I do have the rubber cover, thankfully.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

db130 said:


> However, you'd also need the rubber cover that goes over the switch, which isn't available by itself.


I don't remember which manufacturer, but, I used a primer bulb from a Walbro or Zama carb for the start button many years ago.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

that's a really good idea, i happened to have a spare primer bulb for a 2-stroke weed wacker from an MTD kit:










I did a test fit on an electric starter housing just now, and it does fit!


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## Ballroomblitz (Nov 20, 2015)

Had a similar issue when i salvaged a 10HP machine from the grim reaper, starter toasted and had to make decision on whether it made sense to do the repair. 

Was able to kijiji and found another gentleman who sold parts, wrote and explained i needed some misc parts for a project and he said drop on by as he had lots of carcuses in his barn that i could look over. 

So picked up a few parts on the very cheap, including a used working started that served my needs on the cheap. Some of the other little items like knobs and linkages he threw in for free as he had absolutely no use for them at all, helped me finish that particular project.

Think you need to determine if you need a switch only, or switch with motor and wiring.....then go on a parts search.

I have a 10HP model and have zero issue firing it up first or second pull all the time. Personally i would get the starter fixed but with used parts, going new would make it more difficult to get that value back.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

Your machine is a 1996 large frame (24/26/28) and should be branded Yard Machines. It was probably sold by a big box retailer back in the day. I used to have a link to an MTD model decoder, but can't find it anymore. Those machines are pretty sturdy and as with all MTDs of that vintage, parts between brands are pretty much interchangeable. I had a 1995 8/26 for many years. If you search through my posts, you'll find some modification ideas. One of the first things I did was to install longer skid shoes. This stiffens the bottom of the auger housing and protects its leading edge. For some reason, the Yard Machines brand didn't have headlights (at least not that I have seen). However, there should be a wire underneath the fuel tank for this purpose. You can go the incandescent route which will allow you to use up to a 12w bulb, or go LED with a bridge rectifier. 

One thing to be aware of is that the HMSK100 on your blower is a dual-shaft engine. If you remove the belt cover you'll see that there are two belts. The larger crankshaft belt powers the auger and impeller, and the camshaft (spinning at 2x engine speed and in the opposite direction) powers the wheels. These were only in production for a relatively few years so if it grenades, finding a replacement is very difficult. Some members of this forum have repowered, but it requires a fair amount of surgery. HTH.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

If the starter is good and turns the engine over when plugged in then just add a momentary 120 v in line switch. A search on Google shows all kinds of plug in or hard wire momentary / on off switches starting around $8. Can’t go wrong with that.


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