# Stator Equipped?



## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

How can I tell If my blower (simplicity 8560E1) has a stator to run lights without tearing it apart? There is no mention of it anywhere in my owners manual that I could find. There appears to be a black wire coming out of a hole in the casting near the fly-wheel. Could that be the feed? Thanks for any info.


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

Put a multi meter I the wire while the engine is running. Check for both ac or dc voltage. Most times its ac but can be dc I think.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

GMH said:


> There appears to be a black wire coming out of a hole in the casting near the fly-wheel. Could that be the feed? Thanks for any info.


 You may have to dig a bit deeper to find out, in your middle pic can you pull on the rubber boot and see if the wires are coloured like yellow?
And if so like cde mention check for ac voltage or dc with a needle like prong of course with engine running.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

As others have stated, put a meter on the red connector and see what type of voltage you have and if it is AC or DC. I suspect it will be 12 volts DC at 5 amps output according to this Briggs illustration and the regulator you have hose clamped to the starter motor.


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## pweerc (May 4, 2014)

Grunts got it-that is a voltage regulator/bridge rectifier the red lead will be 12volt out. Make sure to not overload that circuit.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks, that is exactly what I need. I am about to fire it up for a little cleanup and will check the red wire. If it is DC, I should be able to connect an LED light directly to it and not need the bridge rectifier mentioned in the "upgrade to LED Lights" sticky thread correct?


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

OK. I am reading 13.8 volts +/- at the red wire at full throttle. How can I tell how many watts/amps I can draw?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

You can use your meter IF it has an amperage position- OR - You can trust the Briggs rating of 5 amps as shown in the illustration. The regulator in your picture is showing a capacitor which should mean voltage is filtered. Superedge and Coby are the electrical wizards in this regard and will hopefully chime in. Check the amp draw on the light(s) you plan on using and install an inline fuse holder with a fuse of 5 amps or less to protect the stator.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks. the regulator/rectifier is part #698102, which seems to have been replaced by part #698315. I am trying to find specs on it, as the wire and plug colors coincide with a 5 or 9 amp regulated system according to an old B&S manual I have.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

YEAH that is set up for a light.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

OK, the only difference between the 5 and 9 amp system is the size of the magnets on the flywheel. So I would be safe to assume that it is 5amps. All I have to do then, is make sure my light does not draw more than 5 amps, hook it up to the red wire and ground it back to the engine right? I want to use an LED, but since this is already putting out DC, I should be good to go. I just have to get the polarity correct, as LEDs only work one-way I believe.


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

Would this be a suitable light to use?
6 High Power 1 Watt LED Rectangular Working Light - Auxiliary / Fog Lights - Lighting and Electrical United Pacific


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

I did not read the whole thread but essentially if you have a 5 amp stator with no hand warmers then you could in theory put up to 60 watts of lights but you need less than max output and have room for handwarmers which can handle AC current.
A good set up is putting 2 10 watts Leds on each side. I would be careful with the DC of the snowblower as sometimes it can still be dirty voltage, you can add capacitors to help. Ok I see Grunt said you already have capacitors then disregard the dirty voltage bit. Good Luck


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## GMH (Dec 31, 2013)

I wound up using a Uni-Bond IP67 light. It has six 3-watt LEDs and draws 1.48 amps @12v. and claims 1200 lumens. I wired in a 2-amp fuse directly off the rectifier feed, then to a toggle switch, thru the light and back to ground. It does not flicker, and does not lose intensity at idle. Wow, I can't believe the light this thing puts out!


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## superedge88 (Nov 26, 2013)

GMH said:


> I wound up using a Uni-Bond IP67 light. It has six 3-watt LEDs and draws 1.48 amps @12v. and claims 1200 lumens. I wired in a 2-amp fuse directly off the rectifier feed, then to a toggle switch, thru the light and back to ground. It does not flicker, and does not lose intensity at idle. Wow, I can't believe the light this thing puts out!


I'm sorry that I didn't see this thread earlier, but it seems that you found your way quite nicely. If it's DC and it has a filtering capacitor you should be good! Enjoy blowing snow in perma-daylight!


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