# New to me HS1132 first time use



## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

I purchased this HS1132 used. I know that the 1st owner beat it up. More like a stone thrower then a snow blower. I relined the impeller housing and the chute with plastic pail material, that's working great.

With the mashed potato snow that we had yesterday, today I used the machine for the first time. I have never had this happen with my previous Wheelhorse machine. The large front auger became loaded, full of snow. Causing it to be just a rolling barrel. It did not push snow into high speed auger. This happened twice. As I mentioned the previous owner was hard on this machine. The large auger teeth are all bent over, I did not think this was a problem until today. I'm thinking that with those teeth being bent actually held the snow in the auger not letting it fall out. ANY OPINION ON THIS ???

My next task is to look at the belts.... see if the idler pulley needs adjustment.

I looked at the belts today, they seem fine.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Roy could you post a pic of the front auger? 
Are the augers rusted? And what you called fast auger is actually an impeller.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Normex: Your right.....it's the impeller....front auger is not rusted very bad....just the teeth area from chewing rocks. I the daylight tomorrow I will get a picture for you


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Can you get heat where it is stored? the reason I ask is after you post some pics there might be a chance you may have to repaint your augur but let's see it first and take more than one pic with light.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Roy - Post a picture of your front auger. Very possible the previous owner removed the augers to grease the shafts and put the augers on backwards causing the snow to feed to sides instead of feeding back to the impeller.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

The previous owner doesn't know a crescent wrench from a socket.....I doubt it.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

The chewed auger teeth is a common issue as most people, especially the ones with wheel assisted machines, tend to run the teeth into the ground. 

Has anyone else tried this as a solution?


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

worked great on my toro 824, really helps and it actually will throw slush


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

RoyP said:


> The previous owner doesn't know a crescent wrench from a socket.....I doubt it.


Not uncommon for dealers or folks servicing these machines reversing the augers. It happens.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The impeller modification is a common mod suggested here. Most of us get some "bailer belt" from a farm supply store like fleet farm, tractor supply co, ...
It's a great mod to do to help a machine toss out slush and gives a bit more distance to the lighter stuff too.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Freezn said:


> Roy - Post a picture of your front auger. Very possible the previous owner removed the augers to grease the shafts and put the augers on backwards causing the snow to feed to sides instead of feeding back to the impeller.


Here are pictures of the main auger.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Those look good to me.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

You don't think they are bent, just on the tips...could that have been holding the mashed potato snow in the auger..


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Your augur teeth are easy to straighten with a wescott or adjustable wrench that certainly would help, as for the small rust you better wait till warm weather next year where you can take a wire wheel on a drill or grinder and remove the surface rust then 2 coats of lustre black paint for metal with paint brush. As for now it would help if you could spray the inside with silicone or with Fluid Film. Then you should have a normal very good snow blower.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Normex said:


> Your augur teeth are easy to straighten with a wescott or adjustable wrench that certainly would help, as for the small rust you better wait till warm weather next year where you can take a wire wheel on a drill or grinder and remove the surface rust then 2 coats of lustre black paint for metal with paint brush. As for now it would help if you could spray the inside with silicone or with Fluid Film. Then you should have a normal very good snow blower.


You do recommend that I straighten them out.....Paint in the spring.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Roy I read in another thread that you have the shoes off (Skids?) and scraper bar as well?
I know you know but first the skids preferably the side ones in front are the ones preventing your housing touch the ground and prevent the scraper touch too much, normally you loosen the skids and let the blower rest on the scraper bar on something 1/8" thick then tighten the skids with them resting flat on the ground. This is for an asphalt or equivalent but if you have a gravel surface then adjust your scraper via your skids at 1 1/4" or 1" depending on the type of gravel and how compacted it is. There is no reason to run your blower without these two integral parts. Good Luck and or come back for further info.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Yes for your augur teeth definitively straighten them. They are not so thick to be hard with the tool I suggested, you could also use vise grips if in a pinch. Then spray silicone or fluid film all your inside bucket and inside chute also.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Thanks very much.....I will straighten them tomorrow. Great help....


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Roy did you read my previous post?


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Normex said:


> Roy I read in another thread that you have the shoes off (Skids?) and scraper bar as well?
> I know you know but first the skids preferably the side ones in front are the ones preventing your housing touch the ground and prevent the scraper touch too much, normally you loosen the skids and let the blower rest on the scraper bar on something 1/8" thick then tighten the skids with them resting flat on the ground. This is for an asphalt or equivalent but if you have a gravel surface then adjust your scraper via your skids at 1 1/4" or 1" depending on the type of gravel and how compacted it is. There is no reason to run your blower without these two integral parts. Good Luck and or come back for further info.


I have both the shoes & the scraper bar on the machine. The tracks are flat on the ground. If I want to scrape close to the ground, I can just pick up on the handles...This is in the high position...can't use med or low without scraping hard into the ground.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Ok let's say you have it at medium then couldn't you adjust the skids so the scraper is whatever height you want it since I don't know if you have a gravel or hard surface laneway.
Do you have the J skids at the back and or side skids? by the pics it seems you don't have the side skids and if you have gravel then side skids would help.


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## wdb (Dec 15, 2013)

RoyP said:


> I have both the shoes & the scraper bar on the machine. The tracks are flat on the ground. If I want to scrape close to the ground, I can just pick up on the handles...This is in the high position...can't use med or low without scraping hard into the ground.


That is the way my new Honda is set up. High position is the only one where the front of the machine is not being pushed down onto the surface. With my gravel drive I use the high position at all times.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Normex said:


> Ok let's say you have it at medium then couldn't you adjust the skids so the scraper is whatever height you want it since I don't know if you have a gravel or hard surface laneway.
> Do you have the J skids at the back and or side skids? by the pics it seems you don't have the side skids and if you have gravel then side skids would help.


Imagine that I take off the shoes, just in front of the tracks. There are no skids on the side of the auger housing. I also take off the scraper bar. Then I force the machine into the medium position. What I end up with is the raw edge on the bottom of the auger housing digging hard into my blacktop driveway. I have actually performed this task. Normex: Yes, I could put the shoes in front of the tracks down to prevent this, then they are digging very,very hard on the blacktop. Also when I've done this, the rubber tracks are 50% off the ground, starting at the front wheel. My only operation position is High, tracks are flat on the blacktop, the scraper bar is appox 1/4" off of the blacktop, shoes in front of tracks are also appox 1/4" off of the surface. In this position there is NO metal scraping, machine is riding on the rubber tracks....as I think the machine is designed to operate. Medium & Low position is useless for me.

I might also mention, that it throws heavy wet mashed potato snow like no machine I have ever seen. Wow !!!!


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

wdb said:


> That is the way my new Honda is set up. High position is the only one where the front of the machine is not being pushed down onto the surface. With my gravel drive I use the high position at all times.


Finally, another Honda operator with the same problem. You say new, new made 2014 or just new to you. What year was it made

Have you contacted your dealer or National Honda for help. ??


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## wdb (Dec 15, 2013)

RoyP said:


> Finally, another Honda operator with the same problem. You say new, new made 2014 or just new to you. What year was it made
> 
> Have you contacted your dealer or National Honda for help. ??


As we say in the computer business, "It's not a bug, it's a feature."  The owner's manual clearly indicates that the other two positions are intended to touch the ground. The "middle" position is on the skids, the "bottom" position applies more weight to the nose. More height settings is one feature I miss from the old Yamaha.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

one thing I learned quick, a snowblower was primarily designed as a paved driveway/concrete/sidewalk machine. not for a gravel driveway. reason being, even if the chute is adjusted all the way up, the augers are going to pick up a stone here and there, and toss it, or it gets stuck in the impeller.
if these are used on a gravel or dirt driveway, best wait until the temp gets colder and the frost locks the loose gravel down. then it's not bad at all.

if the weather is above 30 degrees, no use even using a snowblower. the snow is too wet and thick and like mashed potatoes. the machines were made to throw fresh snow, fluffy powder, or light pack with average moisture.

these are the lessons I'm learning. if the thermometer reads 34 degrees, I would not even bother starting a blower. the plow gets the nod in thick wet stuff. it's a helluva lot faster, easier.


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## Shredsled (Nov 17, 2014)

RoyP said:


> Imagine that I take off the shoes, just in front of the tracks. There are no skids on the side of the auger housing. I also take off the scraper bar. Then I force the machine into the medium position. What I end up with is the raw edge on the bottom of the auger housing digging hard into my blacktop driveway. I have actually performed this task. Normex: Yes, I could put the shoes in front of the tracks down to prevent this, then they are digging very,very hard on the blacktop. Also when I've done this, the rubber tracks are 50% off the ground, starting at the front wheel. My only operation position is High, tracks are flat on the blacktop, the scraper bar is appox 1/4" off of the blacktop, shoes in front of tracks are also appox 1/4" off of the surface. In this position there is NO metal scraping, machine is riding on the rubber tracks....as I think the machine is designed to operate. Medium & Low position is useless for me.
> 
> I might also mention, that it throws heavy wet mashed potato snow like no machine I have ever seen. Wow !!!!





It is perfectly OK for your skids to touch the ground. It is what they were meant to do. You don't need the skids 1/4" off the ground.


So did you figure out why it was packing up???


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Have you straightened out those teeth on the augers yet ?? Good thing to do but it's not likely to fix your problem.
Can you post a photo of the impeller itself from a couple angles ??

How did you attach the plastic to the inside of the impeller housing or is there a thread on it ??


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> The impeller modification is a common mod suggested here. Most of us get some "bailer belt" from a farm supply store like fleet farm, tractor supply co, ...
> It's a great mod to do to help a machine toss out slush and gives a bit more distance to the lighter stuff too.



With the impeller being the way it is. If I were to put rubber or plastic on the impeller blades.....I would have to get it registered as a weapon. With the heavy mash potato snow that we had last week, it thru the slush like it was lite fluffy snow......can't wait to see what it does with the light stuff.


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## Shredsled (Nov 17, 2014)

RoyP said:


> With the impeller being the way it is. If I were to put rubber or plastic on the impeller blades.....I would have to get it registered as a weapon. With the heavy mash potato snow that we had last week, it thru the slush like it was lite fluffy snow......can't wait to see what it does with the light stuff.



lol, couldn't agree more.

You never answered the questions though...
Did you ever figure out why it was packing up?

And have any photos of your "plastic" that you put inside the impeller/chute?


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Have you straightened out those teeth on the augers yet ?? Good thing to do but it's not likely to fix your problem.
> Can you post a photo of the impeller itself from a couple angles ??
> 
> How did you attach the plastic to the inside of the impeller housing or is there a thread on it ??



















These are pictures of the impeller housing and why it needed drastic attention. As you can see the previous owner tore up the insides of this machine. In one picture you can see that the metal is broken because it is worn so thin. The other picture is really hard to get the angle correct on it. Imagine you kneeling down in front of machine, looking at the left side of the impeller housing, you can see the 2 bolt heads for the skid shoe. You see the edge of the main auger housing where during mfg it's bent to meet up with the impeller housing. the impeller housing is pitted very bad by rocks that he was throwing thru the machine. 









This is after the plastic pail is attached. I tried to get a mastic to hold the plastic until I could nut and bolt it to the housing. Used stainless steel counter sunk heads and lock nuts. 

I have straighten the teeth on the main auger. won't know until next snow if it changes anything. What may of happened is this. I was doing a neighbors front walk that had a lot of grass growing up thru the blacktop. between the auger, scraper bar and the tracks I was getting alot of grass mixed with the snow. Maybe that's why the snow stuck inside of the auger....


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it so far but the auger teeth are suppose to be a tad bent.


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