# general maintenance Ariens 910008



## nwin (Oct 4, 2014)

Hi all,

I grabbed an Ariens 910008 (early seventies model) off of Craigslist last weekend from a guy that buys em cheap, tunes em up, and sells em for a profit. It's a 7hp engine on it and everything has been redone (spark plug, filter etc.).

Anyways, this is my first snowblower ever (really first time owning anything with a small engine (lawnmower, weedwhacker, etc)), and I'm just wondering what kind of maintenance should be done, how often I should run it, that kind of stuff.

There's some gas in it with some stabilizer added, but I haven't moved it since I bought it.

Just any general tips would be appreciated.

Thanks


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## caster (Mar 5, 2013)

Start it up once in awhile get use to the controls just don't run it long in warm weather. Better to see what and how it runs now instead of when it's 10 degrees out and something breaks.


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## nwin (Oct 4, 2014)

caster said:


> Start it up once in awhile get use to the controls just don't run it long in warm weather. Better to see what and how it runs now instead of when it's 10 degrees out and something breaks.


Haha, good advice, honestly!

Also, how long can I reasonably expect a tank of gas to last in this thing?


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

If it has stabilizer in the gas then you don't necessarily have to run it until winter, but it's still a good idea to start it every now and then if you're so inclined. 
Make sure you grease the augers with a proper low-temperature grease.
Always keep an eye on the oil level, and how clean/dirty it might be. If we get another crazy winter, then you may consider doing an oil change mid season.
Spark plug is an ideal thing to replace every season.
Take care of any rust now before the winter because it'll start rotting quicker than you might think.
Many of us on the forum always use some type of fuel treatment with all of our small engines as a cheap preventive opposed to rebuilding a carburetor.
And keep some extra shear pins handy.
Keep the tires inflated, and perhaps invest in tire chains if you don't have them (assuming the blower still has the original turf tires on it)
As far as how long the tank of gas will last largely depends on the size of the driveway and how heavy the snow is. Also the older flat head engines consume more fuel than the newer overhead valve engined


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## nwin (Oct 4, 2014)

SlowRider22 said:


> If it has stabilizer in the gas then you don't necessarily have to run it until winter, but it's still a good idea to start it every now and then if you're so inclined.
> Make sure you grease the augers with a proper low-temperature grease.
> Always keep an eye on the oil level, and how clean/dirty it might be. If we get another crazy winter, then you may consider doing an oil change mid season.
> Spark plug is an ideal thing to replace every season.
> ...


Greasing the augers, is that done once a season generally?

What kind of fuel treatment would you recommend?

I have some chains that came with it, but I'll be sure to purchase some extra shear pins.

Now, on to more questions and to show my complete newbie status!

I went out and attempted to start it today. Looking at the sticker on the snowblower, it told me to do the following:

1) Full choke
2) Put lever in "run" position (mine doesn't have anything that says Run, so I figured it meant the "Fast" position on the left hand side in this picture:










3) Then it tells me (since it's above 10 degrees outside), to pull the rope and gradually move the lever to 'no choke'

Well, here's what happened: I got it started, but it slowly died out. I'm guessing I didn't move it to 'no choke' quick enough?

I tried a few more times, but I couldn't get it to turn over again. In fact, the plastic piece that goes around the pull string actually broke off. I wasn't using much effort to pull, but I figure it's pretty brittle with how old it is.

Since that wasn't working, I looked up the manual online and tried the electric start.

The first time it started up with absolutely no problem. The only problem was that I wasn't sure how to shut the thing off (hindsight is 20/20). So after moving the lever to 'no choke', I moved it back down to 'full choke' and the engine died out. That's when I saw the speed setting in the above picture that said "stop"...whoops. I sure hope these things are as bulletproof as you all have told me.

I went ahead and read some more and tried it up again with the electric start. I tried with the engine clutch OUT and it didn't seem to want to start. I then put the clutch IN and it fired right up. (I'm assuming this is similar to trying to start your manual car up without the clutch in and it being in gear? Would it work if it had been in neutral?)

After getting it started up, I moved the choke to open position, and put it into speed 1, then I moved it around the driveway a bit, tried reverse, and then put it back in neutral, moved the speed to stop, and it died out after letting go of the handle.

So, lots of lessons learned, but I'm not sure about the pull start...when I bought it, the guy cranked it over time and time again no problem, though he probably knows one or two more things about these than me!

Here's some more questions and pictures of my snowblower:










This is essentially my gas pedal, right? Looking at the manual, I can control how quick the RPMs are on the engine with this. The seller told me to not rev the engine too high with this because it causes premature wear/tear










This is my gearbox, basically, right? Right now without snow and having never used the thing, I'm having difficulty understanding why I would ever need more than one gear...










Just the electric start, gas tank, and pullcord minus the plastic piece that broke off...










This guy I've circled I have no idea what it's for. The seller was messing with it a bit when I bought it and said it adjusts how much fuel is getting sent to the engine and that when it's cold I might have to mess with it. What's he mean? I know running rich and running lean, but I have no idea how to tell how the engine is running on this thing and if I'd have to adjust it.

So, lots of questions above, but I'm just trying to get an understanding so I don't screw things up here.

Thanks in advance for any clarification.

Again, my questions are:

1) Why am I having a hard time with the pull start? Why did it work fine the first pull, and on subsequent pulls i got nothing?
2) Why didn't the electric start work the second time (am I correct because the engine clutch wasn't in? I don't recall touching it the first time it started up just fine, though maybe I moved the gearbox controls away from neutral??)
3)How high is too high on the engine speed control?
4) Why do I need more than one gear (1,2,3,4) on the gearbox?
5) What's that thing in the last picture?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

1) Probably something with the choke. The first time it was cold and you choked it and it started. The next few times it was already warmed up and didn't need choked so it wouldn't start. ... Just a guess. No real answer.

2) No clue. I wonder if this blower has some kind of safety. I doubt it though. Maybe there was just too much resistance on it trying to start with something engaged.

3) 3600 rpm is max those engines should turn. 3400 is probably the lower end of max that most people would say is good enough. Can't really adjust it without a tach, but if you go over 3600 you can end up needing to replace the engine as the connecting rod will break and punch a hole in the side of the engine.

4) Generally you blow snow in 1 or 2 depending on how deep it is and use the faster gears for walking around. Some people use the faster gears for blowing snow, but that is generally pushing the machine hard unless there is only a couple inches.

5) Looks like the shutoff valve on the bottom of the fuel tank. If it was on the other side and under the carb I would say high speed jet adjusting screw.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

As Shryp correctly mentioned from your list, you should get your throttle adjusted with a tach from a small engine shop to 3400RPM with the lever set to full throttle, that way when you snowblow you just go full throttle without worrying of overev.
Have the sm engine shop check on your #2 question as well.
On your #5 it is as Shryp mentioned a shut off valve. So when snow starts it should be completely opened (counter clockwise) and when you are done for the season you close it completely. Now it is very odd the seller would fiddle with it as if trying to adjust the enrichment or vice versa, it might indicate the float needle is worn. Maybe ask the seller or the shop why he adjust it like a needle adjustment screw.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You can get small tachs pretty cheap. There are plenty of them in the $10 - $50 range. I think I paid about $35 for mine.


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## nwin (Oct 4, 2014)

Normex said:


> On your #5 it is as Shryp mentioned a shut off valve. So when snow starts it should be completely opened (counter clockwise) and when you are done for the season you close it completely. Now it is very odd the seller would fiddle with it as if trying to adjust the enrichment or vice versa, it might indicate the float needle is worn. Maybe ask the seller or the shop why he adjust it like a needle adjustment screw.


Should I completely open this valve whenever I want to run the engine as well (Say I want to start it right now when there is no snow around...just want to make sure it's running ok)?

I only ask because I tried starting it up again today, and the following happened:

With it choked fully, I got it to start the first time with the pull start no problem. However, when I shifted from neutral to first, it died shortly after. I noticed that it seemed like it was harder to pull the cord after this first try...any ideas why?

Not wanting to mess anything up, I tried the electric start and it started right up. I got it into first gear and moved it around a bit, but then it died.

Throughout this whole time, the shut off valve was completely turned clockwise, so it was closed. Sorry for the stupid question, but maybe there was just some remaining fuel left in the system which allowed it to start both times? If I open that valve completely (turn it counter-clockwise), it should run non-stop so long as I choke it correctly, yeah?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

nwin said:


> Throughout this whole time, the shut off valve was completely turned clockwise, so it was closed. Sorry for the stupid question, but maybe there was just some remaining fuel left in the system which allowed it to start both times? If I open that valve completely (turn it counter-clockwise), it should run non-stop so long as I choke it correctly, yeah?


 Absolutely you have to open the valve counter-clockwise fully to start your engine then after you are finished with the engine running you can close it until the snow comes. Once the snow season starts open your valve and let it be open until the snow season stops which you will close it for off season.
Once you start your engine with full choke it will run rough then right away open your choke halfway and leave it for a minute to warm up or if it starts to run roughly again open your choke fully.


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## nwin (Oct 4, 2014)

Normex said:


> Absolutely you have to open the valve counter-clockwise fully to start your engine then after you are finished with the engine running you can close it until the snow comes. Once the snow season starts open your valve and let it be open until the snow season stops which you will close it for off season.
> Once you start your engine with full choke it will run rough then right away open your choke halfway and leave it for a minute to warm up or if it starts to run roughly again open your choke fully.


Ok, thank you. Again, sorry for the stupid questions-first time running a small engine (I grew up in Arizona where we had a desert landscape, so no lawnmower there!)

Just for the sake of argument, why ever bother closing it? What's closing it off do? Just prevent leaks in the event that a hose deteriorates or something? Or just to keep fuel from going bad in the system past the shutoff valve?


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

nwin said:


> Just for the sake of argument, why ever bother closing it? What's closing it off do? Just prevent leaks in the event that a hose deteriorates or something? Or just to keep fuel from going bad in the system past the shutoff valve?


see this thread 

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...cussion/25865-fuel-shut-off-should-i-add.html

Scot


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## nwin (Oct 4, 2014)

sscotsman said:


> see this thread
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...cussion/25865-fuel-shut-off-should-i-add.html
> 
> Scot


Makes perfect sense! Thank you!


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## nwin (Oct 4, 2014)

One last question...for now.

Someone mentioned buying extra shear pins. I found the Ariens subforums and the link for service parts, but I'm not entirely sure what I need.

I'm guessing this: Shear Bolt [51001500] for Ariens Lawn Equipment | eReplacement Parts

Is that it, though? How many would you suggest buying?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Not quite Nwin the following link is for your 910008 Snowblower See A-73

Ariens 910008 Parts List and Diagram - (000101) : eReplacementParts.com

As they are not cheap ($2.50 or so) you should have minimum a total replacement, is it two I think? The number needed is your wildest guess
what you will have the snowblower ingest anything other than snow.
If it's the same for shipping cost maybe order 4 but I don't want to throw you a jinx because most of the time since you have some spares then you might not need any.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

They are only 88 cents here, but the shipping is $6.99 flat rate. Expensive for just a couple shear pins, but good price if you need some other items.

Shear Pin replaces Ariens 510015 | Snowblower Parts | MFG Supply


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

I forgot to add, is you probably should replace your existing shear pins with the new ones as you don't know if the previous owner changed them and put something much stronger than the recommended shear bolts strength, just a thought.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

nwin said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I grabbed an Ariens 910008 (early seventies model) off of Craigslist last weekend from a guy that buys em cheap, tunes em up, and sells em for a profit. It's a 7hp engine on it and everything has been redone (spark plug, filter etc.).
> Anyways, this is my first snowblower ever (really first time owning anything with a small engine (lawnmower, weedwhacker, etc)), and I'm just wondering what kind of maintenance should be done, how often I should run it, that kind of stuff.
> ...


great choice for a first machine. rock solid design. you hit a homer on the first time up.

1. buy a few extra spark plugs. if you're using the machine and it suddenly acts up and won't start, try changing the plug. I usually clean mine with choke/carb cleaner, then the darn thing starts right up. but to save time screw a new plug in, and clean the old one for next time.

2. if you store it in an unheated shed or outside under a porch or awning, keep the gas tank filled with gas, but drain the carb. additives are not 100% foolproof. dry gas will absorb moisture and turn to white milky mixture that won't start. Stabil also has a nasty tendency to foul plugs and run sort of rich until it burns through, it doesn't burn as good as straight gas. keep the gas tank filled so it doesn't rust. if stored indoors in a heated area, you can drain the gas tank too.

3. I put synthetic Amsoil in the crankcase of all 7 of my machines. it's way better than regular mineral oil. regular oil was used in engines when the Model T was being made, and it's just as antiquated. synthetic oil will basically eliminate internal engine wear, and can be left in the engine indefinitely, it doesn't break down like mineral oil does.

4. expect to take the carb apart from time to time, and clean out all the passages. I've had to do the carbs on some of my machines a few times a year. the gasoline we have now is really crappy compared to years ago, and it wreaks havoc on fuel systems.

5. if it has points, consider changing it over to a Nova II electronic ignition - really easy and cheap to do. it will have more spark, start easier, and more power, and more accurate timing.

6. if the spark plug is a Champion J8, consider using a Champion J19. It's a slightly hotter plug that Briggs recommended for small engines to resist plug fouling. some of my machines I only run a little to knock the cobwebs off and they foul plugs remarkably quick with a J8. Champion put out a bulletin back in the day, stating a J19 should be used in that case. actually it may be stamped rj19lm meaning resistor (r) and lawn mower (lm) but if you find a plain jane j19 that will work too.

7. pull the bottom cover off the machine, and grease everything thoroughly. change the oil in the front auger drive box with gear oil.

8. when you're snowblowing a gravel driveway, set the skids at the highest point for starters. don't ever stand in front of the discharge chute. these machines can shoot a rock out like a bullet.

9. if the engine goes, put a USA made engine back on it, or rebuild the original engine. don't bastardize it with a cheap knock-off Chinese engine.

10. if you don't already know how, have someone adjust the carburetor for you, setting the base idle, idle mixture, governed high speed setting, and high speed mixture. sometimes these have to be readjusted with changing weather conditions. the colder it gets, the leaner the mixture gets, because the air is denser- so the carb must be richened up at wide open throttle- and vice versa.


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