# Chain Drive Problem...



## Autolite

I'd like to ask for advice and information reference a problem with the final drive chain that keeps jumping off the sprockets on a Sears/Craftsman model C950-52712-7 snow blower. I'd like to know how others have rectified this problem on these types of machines and what would be the most reasonable course of action.

I read that the chain might likely be worn or stretched so would installing a new chain be best option or can the chain be shortened to give it a tighter fit on the sprockets? I tried shortening the chain one complete link but that made it too short to fit. I understand that a chain can be shortened by just one 'roller' and I'd like to know if anybody has successfully tried that.

Also, looking at the compete wheel drive assembly it appears that the drive chains run on an 'offset' in relation to the driving and driven sprockets. I want to ask if this is by design as I've seen this mentioned on other web sources and there doesn't seem to be any bent or twisted shafts or sprockets that would account for this otherwise?

Any help or advice would be most sincerely appreciated. I want to avoid the bother and expense of completely replacing all sprockets, shafts and chains if it isn't necessary.

Many thanks...


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## Shryp

When you say offset, do you mean the 2 sprockets the chain goes on do not line up perfectly straight with each other? If the chain is going crooked it is going to jump off. You have to figure out why it isn't lining up.

Most chain systems have some way to tighten the tension I would thing. I know there is a nut in my Ariens I can loosen to pull the sprocket further away and adjust the chain tension. Obviously if the chain is too far gone tightening it won't help. I have heard as chains get stretched over time they don't fit on the sprocket gears correctly.

You could try a half link if you think that will work. I have heard of people doing that. Also it will probably be cheaper to buy bulk chain and make your own vs buying the specific chains from Sears.

Lastly (or more like firstly) make sure all the spockets are tight. Check for play and wiggle in the bushings and bearings holding those to the shafts and the shafts to the frame. Also make sure the frame isn't ripped where the shafts are bolted to it.


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## Autolite

Shryp said:


> When you say offset, do you mean the 2 sprockets the chain goes on do not line up perfectly straight with each other?


Yes. The chain path is not parallel with the associated sprockets yet there is nothing that looks bent or twisted. There's also a 'jack shaft' forward of the axle assembly (for drive gear reduction) that looks like it was intentionally mounted on a strange angle. Even the frame looks to be square.

I've seen other people making comments on this who noticed the same thing on their machine so that's why I'm asking if it is designed that way. 

This Sears blower was apparently manufactured by 'Murray' so perhaps someone who has seen the drive set-up on a Murray snow blower can shed some light on this...


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## Shryp

I would say something is wrong. There is no reason those gears should not line up. That is just asking for trouble. Here are some Murray snowblower repair videos if you want to look up and see if anything matches yours.

https://www.youtube.com/user/donyboy73/search?query=murray

Which chain is giving you the trouble? The one around the wheels or the one around the friction disc? I would guess the wheels since you say "final drive chain". Are your axle bushings nice and tight?

Just for the heck of it maybe pull the bolt out of that sprocket and make sure it isn't bent and that someone didn't drill a new hole in the axle. Make sure the wheels are tight and there is no left-right movement in the axle. Maybe try some spacers and a file or something to bring that sprocket back center with the jackshaft sprocket. Just make sure the jackshaft is good before altering the axle.

Is your jackshaft supported on both sides or only the one side? It might just have bearings completely shot. You might not be able to tell until you remove both chains.


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## db9938

It may be the angle that the picture was taken, but are all the shafts parallel to one another. The reason that I ask, the top shaft, in the picture, appears to be slightly higher at the left hand side. 

I don't own a Murray, just observing what's in the picture.


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## Autolite

db9938 said:


> It may be the angle that the picture was taken, but are all the shafts parallel to one another. The reason that I ask, the top shaft, in the picture, appears to be slightly higher at the left hand side.


No, the shafts are not parallel with each other but there doesn't seem be be anything bent or twisted. It appears that they were built that way. I know that it doesn't make sense and this is what has me baffled. If the frame is bent, twisted or buckled, I'm just not seeing it!

I've emailed Murray technical support and I am hoping that they can explain it. Also, I've found out that the 'jack-shaft' was replaced from being worn out in 2002 and the final drive chain was replaced in 2009. I'm guessing then that this isn't the first time this machine has had this problem. 

I'm starting to wonder if there's been some sort of manufacturing defect with this model...


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## Sid

Type in Partsandservices.com, and search for Murray, and you should be able to find your model #. I had very good luck with this site, finding a '95 model and the diagrams were very helpful. My model did not have "repair" links on the chains. so I replaced all three chains. Murray manuals are just about impossible to get.Good luck. The older Murrays were good machines. Yeah you have something going on there, all those shafts should be parallel to each other. Good luck.
Sid


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## Autolite

Shryp said:


> I would say something is wrong. There is no reason those gears should not line up. That is just asking for trouble. Here are some Murray snowblower repair videos if you want to look up and see if anything matches yours.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/user/donyboy73/search?query=murray
> 
> Which chain is giving you the trouble? The one around the wheels or the one around the friction disc? I would guess the wheels since you say "final drive chain". Are your axle bushings nice and tight?
> 
> Just for the heck of it maybe pull the bolt out of that sprocket and make sure it isn't bent and that someone didn't drill a new hole in the axle. Make sure the wheels are tight and there is no left-right movement in the axle. Maybe try some spacers and a file or something to bring that sprocket back center with the jackshaft sprocket. Just make sure the jackshaft is good before altering the axle.
> 
> Is your jackshaft supported on both sides or only the one side? It might just have bearings completely shot. You might not be able to tell until you remove both chains.


Thanks for the advice and the video link. I'll check it out. The problem is with the (final drive) chain that runs around the axle for the wheels.

I'm thinking that perhaps the next step is to just disassemble and inspect everything in the drive line. I know that someone has had it a part before so maybe something wasn't put back together quite right...


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## Autolite

Sid said:


> Type in Partsandservices.com, and search for Murray, and you should be able to find your model #. I had very good luck with this site, finding a '95 model and the diagrams were very helpful. My model did not have "repair" links on the chains. so I replaced all three chains. Murray manuals are just about impossible to get.Good luck. The older Murrays were good machines. Yeah you have something going on there, all those shafts should be parallel to each other. Good luck.
> Sid


Thanks, but I already have the manual. This is actually a Sears Craftsman blower that was built by Murray so getting parts lists and diagrams doesn't seem to be much of a bother...


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## Sid

The large sprockets almost never wear out, the small ones will after a long while. I think it's an alinement problem. You should be able to sight along the chain, or the large sprocket by eye ora small straight edge to check the alignment.
Sid


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## Autolite

Sid said:


> The large sprockets almost never wear out, the small ones will after a long while. I think it's an alinement problem. You should be able to sight along the chain, or the large sprocket by eye ora small straight edge to check the alignment.
> Sid


Here's a couple of pics to perhaps better illustrate the issue. You can see in the first pic that the driving sprocket on the jack-shaft is not in-line with the driven sprocket on the axle. You can also see in the second pic that the jack-shaft is mounted on an angle (up and toward the left) and is not parallel with the axle shaft for the wheels.

Notice too that the small driving sprocket on the jack-shaft has a pronounced chamfer on it's left side. The chamfer on the one side of this jack-shaft driving sprocket gives me the impression that the chain was meant by design to run on an offset path in relation to it's associated sprockets.

That's just my guess. The Murray technical support people haven't gotten back to me on this yet, but how else do you explain the chamfer on the jack-shaft sprocket and the angle mounting of the jack-shaft itself if it wasn't by design???


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## Autolite

Sid said:


> The older Murrays were good machines. Sid


 
Looking at the Murray maintenance video linked to on a previous post (#4), I can see the placement of the sprockets and shafts is different than the machine that I am currently working on.

The video shows a much more rugged (probably older) design with the drive train shafts all parallel to each other and the chains running in a 'true' path in relation to the sprockets.

I'm guessing the machine I am working on was designed with the shafts mounted on an angle with the chains running on an 'offset' path in order to make the whole installation more compact. It seems functionality and dependability were not the primary considerations.

It's infuriating when design engineers mess-up known, reliable designs with inferior 'newer' designs. It seems that 90% of mechanical problems are the result of someone else's mistake either by poor workmanship or a bad design...


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## Shryp

I would bet something is wrong with that jackshaft. Maybe that flange that it is bolted to is bent down towards the axle. Also, in the first picture of your last post it looks like the chain that is still attached is hitting a screw holding the other end of the jackshaft bearing in.


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## db9938

The second pic, definitely looks like the bushing has reached it's service life. I would reckon that the shaft should be seated more squarely into it, and aligned with it.


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## Sid

That jack shaft should be exactly parallel to the other shaft, chains are never made to run out of alignment. You are going to have to pull enough stuff out of your rig to see whats up with that shaft, and bearing. To me it looks like the steel bracket that holds the jackshaft bearing needs looking at. Try to compare it with the diagram in your [worth it's weight weight in gold] manual. something happened there.
Sid


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## Shryp

You have said someone has had the machine apart before as well. I wonder if one of the bearing blocks is installed upside down on one side of that jackshaft. If the holes are not the same top and bottom someone might have flipped it.


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## Autolite

Sid said:


> That jack shaft should be exactly parallel to the other shaft, chains are never made to run out of alignment. Sid


Yes, I would think that that should be the case but it just doesn't seem to be so on this machine. I figure that it's a really bad design or a seriously huge manufacturing defect. I won't know for sure it the Murray technical support people don't get back to me on this.

Anyway, it's all back together and running fine right now. I found that there was about 1/4" inch longitudinal play in the jack shaft. It occurred to me that with this excessive play and the jack-shaft being mounted on an angle, the shaft was likely sliding up under load causing the driving sprocket completely out of line with the large driven sprocket on the axle shaft (making the chain jump). 

I thought that the excessive longitudinal play might be due to the shaft sliding and hammering out under load on the outboard bearing/mount each time the forward drive was engaged. A closer look at the sheet metal where the outboard bearing/mount was located (left hand side of chassis) indicated slight bulging which confirmed my suspicion.

Using a heavy hammer and a block of wood, I hammered the bulge back in which reduced the longitudinal play in the jack shaft about 50%. Then, with the wheels already off, I used washers and shims between the wheels and the axle bushings to relocate the final drive sprocket on the axle shaft about .050" to .060" thou to the left bringing the driven sprocket back closer in-line with the driving sprocket on the jack shaft.

After a few test runs everything works fine. There still seems to be too much slack in the final drive chain but I'm not going to worry about it. I should've really replaced the jack shaft but it's only a back-up machine that has given many years of use and I really don't want to spend money on it unless I absolutely need to.

Thanks again for everybody's help, suggestions and the video link. It was all most appreciated...


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## Autolite

Shryp said:


> You have said someone has had the machine apart before as well. I wonder if one of the bearing blocks is installed upside down on one side of that jackshaft. If the holes are not the same top and bottom someone might have flipped it.


The bearing/mounts appear to be installed properly. A new jack shaft was installed in 2002 by a professional small engine mechanic in his shop. I think I might know who did the work and he has a good reputation. I don't think this guy would have screwed up something like this. Consider also that this snow blower ran for twelve years with the new jack shaft installed before the chain started flying off...


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## Autolite

Shryp said:


> Also, in the first picture of your last post it looks like the chain that is still attached is hitting a screw holding the other end of the jackshaft bearing in.


I noticed that too but it's just the poor camera angle that tricks the eye. The screw is actually well inside the path of the chain. There's really a ton of clearance there...


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## db9938

Could they have short linked it?


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## Autolite

db9938 said:


> Could they have short linked it?


Well, the Murray technical people did get back to me on this but they did not address my query reference whether the final drive chain is suppose to run on an offset path or not. 

As has been pointed out a couple of times on this thread, the chain not running true by design just doesn't make any sense.

The jack shaft is obviously mounted on an angle and the chains are running on an offset path. Based on what you people have told me and what I saw when I had the machine apart I'd have to say that it seems to me to be a manufacturing defect.

I'm guessing that the jack shaft was never mounted properly at the factory from the start. Maybe a jig was out of line or something, I dunno.

But I do know that this strange alignment issue had been mentioned elsewhere on-line so I know that I'm not the only one who has encountered it...


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## Autolite

db9938 said:


> Could they have short linked it?


Well, the Murray technical people did get back to me on this but they did not address my query reference whether the final drive chain is suppose to run on an offset path or not. 

As has been pointed out a couple of times on this thread, the chain not running true by design just doesn't make any sense.

The jack shaft is obviously mounted on an angle and the chains are running on an offset path. Based on what you people have told me and what I saw when I had the machine apart I'd have to say that it seems to me to be a manufacturing defect.

I'm guessing that the jack shaft was never mounted properly at the factory from the start. Maybe a jig was out of line or something, I dunno.

But I do know that this strange alignment issue had been mentioned elsewhere on-line so I know that I'm not the only one who has encountered it...


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## db9938

I am sorry to hear about your discovery. Is there a chance that you could shim it out to make it work?


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## Autolite

db9938 said:


> I am sorry to hear about your discovery. Is there a chance that you could shim it out to make it work?


Well the machine is back in running order now (see post #17) but it was a makeshift repair. A proper repair would mean removing the jack shaft and drilling new mount holes so that the jack shaft can be reinstalled parallel with the other shafts.

But as I had mentioned, this is a back-up machine with a lot of hours on it. I just don't think it's worth the time or bother. I figure just use it when and if needed until the chain starts jumping off again. 

I really don't have the incentive nor the time to spend repairing what is basically a poorly designed, poorly built machine anyway...


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## db9938

Understood, but how much of a back up is it, if you really question it's ability to back up....?


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## 94EG8

What generally happens to those Murray based machines are the welds that hold the bracket that shaft for the friction wheel runs through break allowing the bracket to flex. Even under normal circumstances though the chains in those particular units have what appears to be an excessive amount of slack. I have worked on at least 50 machines of this design and the slack is normal.

Also, unrelated, but that weird cable running down under the axle for the auger control tends to be a problem. It can be removed and instead you can replace that whole setup with a more traditional shaft with an offset bracket on each end. At some point they were available as a kit, but I've only ever robbed the parts I needed of a junked machine. I haven't got a great pic, but you can sort of see it here if you look at the cable on the right, this machine was originally equipped the same way yours was.


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## Repair-n-despair

> What generally happens to those Murray based machines are the welds that hold the bracket that shaft for the friction wheel runs through break allowing the bracket to flex. Even under normal circumstances though the chains in those particular units have what appears to be an excessive amount of slack. I have worked on at least 50 machines of this design and the slack is normal.


My machine was doing the exact same thing. What i discovered was that the plate used to reinforce the sprockets had the tack welds broke on one side. Anytime the machine flexed, the chain would make noise and eventually pop of. Check the welds on this plate. Mine seemed ok at first because it was still attached on one side, thus giving the illusion that the welds were good. the manufaturer only tacks it in a few places. Once I re-welded the seams, the issue was no more..
Best Kind.

Marc


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## Cutter

Thank you so much for posting this. Yesterday, I replaced my friction wheel in the very same model ( grey in color), and ti was then that I noticed this chain irregularity.I have been wondering ever since, and could not find anything on the net about it. My model is about 19 years old, but looks like new. I noticed my gear teeth were scalloped which would indicate wear. I am just in my way to work, but will revisit this site afterwards. More to come.


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## Cutter

*Call me Crazy*



Cutter said:


> Thank you so much for posting this. Yesterday, I replaced my friction wheel in the very same model ( grey in color), and ti was then that I noticed this chain irregularity.I have been wondering ever since, and could not find anything on the net about it. My model is about 19 years old, but looks like new. I noticed my gear teeth were scalloped which would indicate wear. I am just in my way to work, but will revisit this site afterwards. More to come.


But, you know, I remember looking at this machine when it was new, and thinking it was odd that the chain was at an angle like that. Of course, at that time, I had never seen a snowblower transmission before....so i wasn't sure if that was the way it was supposed to be. 

Whatever... I have not blown a chain off (yet), and I have many,many hours on this machine. The scalloped gear teeth are a concern, but being that I clean the bottom pan at least twice a winter, and have never noticed any large amount of filings or heavy buildup, I am going to assume that it should be ok? I guess time will tell.


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## Cutter

Well, here is an update on my Chain Drive issue with my Sears-Murray snowblower......I was blowing heavy snow this winter, when I heard a big bang, and the wheels locked up solid. I flipped the machine up, only to find that the gears had mashed up inside, with the back one for the friction wheel at a terrible angle. Slid it home on a toboggan, talked to a couple of repair shops, went and bought an Ariens. The 2 shops I talked to said exactly what some have said here....the welds on the brackets crack, and they flex....the rest is history. The machine was 20 years old, and I was kind of thinking of a new one anyway. I want to retire in about 6 years....so as part of my "get-ready"...hopefully I won't have to buy another one. I ended up selling it for $135.00 to a guy who needed the engine, so not a total loss.


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## Sid

You got pretty good money for that machine. I am hoping that my machine will outlast me.
Sid


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## bosco659

I have the same problem on my old 29”, 11hp Craftsman blower. As previously noted the shafts are not parallel. It looks like they did that intentionally at the factory. It may be that they did this to try to achieve the proper chain tension. The excess side play in the wheel axle shaft was repaired by adding two shaft collars on the axles outside the frame of the machine preventing lateral movement. Also repositioned the bearing for the jack shaft by drilling new holes for the bearing but this creates access slack in both of the drive chains. Looking at repositioning the axle shaft to achieve proper tension of the wheel drive chain. This will require the addition of two pillow block bearings to the side of the frame. I’ll still need to address the chain tension of the auger drive assembly.


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## Cutter

bosco659 said:


> I have the same problem on my old 29”, 11hp Craftsman blower. As previously noted the shafts are not parallel. It looks like they did that intentionally at the factory. It may be that they did this to try to achieve the proper chain tension. The excess side play in the wheel axle shaft was repaired by adding two shaft collars on the axles outside the frame of the machine preventing lateral movement. Also repositioned the bearing for the jack shaft by drilling new holes for the bearing but this creates access slack in both of the drive chains. Looking at repositioning the axle shaft to achieve proper tension of the wheel drive chain. This will require the addition of two pillow block bearings to the side of the frame. I’ll still need to address the chain tension of the auger drive assembly.



Hey thanks for your reply Bosco.....it sounds exactly like my problem. I regretfully decided to sell my blower for parts, and bought a "new to me" Ariens....lots of power, great machine, but heavy. Not sure what happens as I get older. However, my Dad who turns 85 this month has the same Craftsman blower as I did, and I have already put in my request to buy his when he is ready to part with it. I dearly loved that machine.:smile2:


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## aldfam4

It appears to me, (camera angle might be a factor) that the top sprocket on the friction disc hex shaft (on the left side_ looks like it may need to be moved back to the left a bit. Not sure if you can adjust that but the angle of the chain at the top, far left, looks to be to far to the right.


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## Cutter

aldfam4 said:


> It appears to me, (camera angle might be a factor) that the top sprocket on the friction disc hex shaft (on the left side_ looks like it may need to be moved back to the left a bit. Not sure if you can adjust that but the angle of the chain at the top, far left, looks to be to far to the right.





Unfortunately, it isn't the camera angle, although it is true that these angles can affect sightlines ( I am a photographer)....but not in this case. My Dad, who is 85 in 3 days, has exactly the same snowblower, with very few hours on it, and the chains are exactly the same. Either it must have been a fault directly from the factory, or it has to do with wear.....but like I mentioned....my Dad's blower has been used so little you could put it back into the showroom. So I am at a loss as to why it is this way.:smile2:


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## JayzAuto1

I've been following this thread with interest. I've seen this issue quite a few times on customers machines, with Craftsman, Murray, NOMA and Dynamark badges. Chains appear to be loose on fully functioning machines, but on those same machines, the shafts are always in perfect alignment. 
Now what I have found out, is that many times that there is wheel lock up, noise or tossing chains, the wheel axle SHOULD have 3/4" external lock rings keeping the axle centered. Which in turn will keep the chains parallel with the Jack Shaft. On machines with these external lock rings missing, damaged or rotted, it allows the axle to slide, bumping the chains.
I see a few posters have been using shims as a temporary fix, which will accomplish the same thing. If these chains are allowed to continually smash into each other, I believe THEN the welds will break on the carriage that holds the bushings keeping the shafts in alignment.
So tonight, I decided to get to the bottom of this. I normally keep a bag of these 3/4" external lock rings in stock. I replace them on customers machines during a service, as I know what happens if the axle continues to move around. 
I took a machine in trade recently. Clean NOMA. After servicing and test drive, i heard a horrendous noise from Transmission. Although it did not lock up, the Jack Shaft was so far out of alignment, that the driven gear was hitting the engine mount bolts and plate.
I stripped it down to just the trans housing and found the broken welds as noted in a previous post. It's pretty far in, requiring complete disassembly, so financially it really doesn't make sense to repair it. But the machine is soooo clean and I own it, I will weld it up. Plus, I've spent all the time to find it...... I'm in too deep to bail out now.
I have includes the pix of the damage which is clearly visible. Unfortunately, I don't have pix of the "before" damage. But it has the same mis-alignment as the OP's machine. 
I will post pix of the repair after I weld it up, as long as I can get it close enough to keep the shafts in alignment. I will also include pix of another trans that does not have the problem, that I used as comparison. it will show the shafts in perfect alignment, the chains being loose and it did have the external lock rings in tact. 
These are solid machines, well built, sturdy and the paint stays on them pretty well. I hate to see them scrapped.

GLuck, Jay


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## Cutter

JayzAuto1 said:


> I've been following this thread with interest. I've seen this issue quite a few times on customers machines, with Craftsman, Murray, NOMA and Dynamark badges. Chains appear to be loose on fully functioning machines, but on those same machines, the shafts are always in perfect alignment.
> Now what I have found out, is that many times that there is wheel lock up, noise or tossing chains, the wheel axle SHOULD have 3/4" external lock rings keeping the axle centered. Which in turn will keep the chains parallel with the Jack Shaft. On machines with these external lock rings missing, damaged or rotted, it allows the axle to slide, bumping the chains.
> GLuck, Jay



Hello Jay....and thank you so much for posting this great information. The pics are a bonus as well. What you have shown here, is pretty much the same explanation from 2 shops here in the City. It is a great feeling to know that the info I was given was the right stuff. Neither shop advised to fix it, as that much money could go into a newer machine. However, I have to say that my Ariens is sweet, but I really do miss my Craftsman 8.5/27 blower. It treated me well for 20 years.:smile2:


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## JayzAuto1

*Murray NOMA Dynamark Cradtsman Transmission Repair*

Good Evening Cutter,

I finished the transmission repair and assembly last nite. I assembled and test drove it today. Feels like new again. No noise and handles great. Chains are in alignment (for the most part) and tightened up significantly. It certainly wasn't a money maker for me, but there is a great amount of satisfaction in saving this unit (that's the REAL reason we do this, Rite??.... It's certainly Not for the money). Although I had this unit sold already, as it was a trade-in and really clean. We've had very little snow, so it never got a proper workout. Better I find it now, then have it happen to a customer in a snow storm...Because these machines NEVER break down in July!!!!!
I'm including pix of the repair as it was finished, but not painted, so the repairs can be seen clearly. I also have pix of the retaining rings that are soooo important, for for future posters. 
Long story short, I try to save them all, but only the owner can decide how much value (financial OR sentimental) the unit has. At least you got a new machine out of it. Good luck with it.

update: cannot post pix.....Missing security token???? IDK Cant even send a message to admin


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## JayzAuto1

*Murray NOMA Dynamark Cradtsman Transmission Repair*

Some pix of repair


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## JayzAuto1

more repair pix..... would only allow a few at a time I guess


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## Sid

I've been following this thread also. I have basically the same machine, only a little older. Never had "that" problem. I was able do a lot of maintenance on it during warmer weather, still do. It is a great machine, that I have been able to upgrade some of the light duty bearings, one sprocket , the small ones go first, replaced the suicide clutch with a dead man clutch, ether way your'e dead. And a few other improvements, taller chute, new aggressive tires, and "V" bar chains, and a few things I can't remember.
Sid


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## Cutter

JayzAuto1 said:


> Good Evening Cutter,
> 
> I finished the transmission repair and assembly last nite. I assembled and test drove it today. Feels like new again. No noise and handles great. Chains are in alignment (for the most part) and tightened up significantly. It certainly wasn't a money maker for me, but there is a great amount of satisfaction in saving this unit (that's the REAL reason we do this, Rite??.... It's certainly Not for the money). Although I had this unit sold already, as it was a trade-in and really clean. We've had very little snow, so it never got a proper workout. Better I find it now, then have it happen to a customer in a snow storm...Because these machines NEVER break down in July!!!!!
> I'm including pix of the repair as it was finished, but not painted, so the repairs can be seen clearly. I also have pix of the retaining rings that are soooo important, for for future posters.
> Long story short, I try to save them all, but only the owner can decide how much value (financial OR sentimental) the unit has. At least you got a new machine out of it. Good luck with it.
> 
> 
> I really have to tell you how much I appreciate your efforts with this. As I had posted earlier, my Dad, who is 85 , has the exact same machine, and we have already agreed that when he is ready to clear things out, I want first dibs on it. Now that I know what you have done to rectify the problem, I can buy it, take my time to fix it, as I will have my Ariens anyway, and I can make it like new again. I appreciate your advice, as I had talked to many people here as to why the chains were not parallel....and everybody looked at me like I was crazy. Don't be surprised if I contact you for a question or 2. In the meantime Jay, Thank You so much, and Merry Christmas!:smile2::grin::smile_big:


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