# Stator & heated grip question, How much power



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

How many Watts is normal on these engines, I have a 254cc LTC from a Husqvarna I think a ST227P and doing a little searching found Jacks small engines list the stator (They call it alternator) But list it as a 60W which I thought was high to what you usually find, Although I know Husqvarna puts 2 lights and heated grips so might explain why the higher watts but is 60W higher than normal or is that average. May just add those heated ebay grip warmers if there is extra power just for the fun of it.

Also another question, I am installing the light, The engine has a double wire which I assume is one for the lights and the other for the grips, Would I need a second rectifier for the grips as I think they are DC for the cheap heated grips.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

You won't be able to install heated grips if your output is only 60 Watts, that's a 5 amp output, they don't come much smaller.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Hmm I am getting different results from this thread http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/15737-need-heated-hand-grips.html Seems a lot of Tec engines had only 18w and the machines that had grips and lights were at 50w but I will have to check with the meter to be sure, I know Heqvarna has lights and grips that this engine came off of so Not sure if 60w is too little.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

In terms of a rectifier, I doubt you'd need one. Heated grips are just, well, heaters. Resistive loads, like heaters, or incandescent bulbs, don't care if you give them AC or DC. 

For capacity, my machine has a headlight, and heated grips. The Tecumseh engine parts list shows an alternator part # of 611104. Small Engine Parts Warehouse shows this when you search: 

"TE-Alt-611104 5/3 Amp Alternator to fit HM80-100, OHM80-120, TVM195-220 engines with external magneto"

Now, if mine has 2 outputs, 3A (36W @ 12V) and 5A (60W @ 12V), maybe the light is on one, and the heated grips are on the other. The machine is 110V electric start, so it's not using either of the outputs for charging a battery. 

So either 5A is enough for a light & heated grips, or it's 3A for one, 5A for the other. Either way, if you didn't have enough juice, you could go to an LED light, to free up some power for grips. 

Also, *if* grips are normally wired in parallel (I don't know), then you could wire them in series. You'd get significantly less heat out of them, but you'd also reduce their draw, to avoid overloading the alternator. 

Checking the draw of an item is straightforward enough, you could connect it to a 12V car battery, and measure the current draw. But measuring the output of an alternator seems less straightfoward to me. You could connect additional 12V lights of known wattages, and see when the voltage output dropped off to below ~12V. But I don't know if just pushing until you overload the alternator might overheat it, or otherwise do some harm.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

By putting then in series you'd only get a quarter of the power to each.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

This is not a Tec engine, It is off of a more recent ST227P Husqvarna, I put the engine on a Sno-Tec24" and having fun building up the backup blower so cheap add ons are getting added, I have the rec. and a LED ready to add and looked up the parts for the Husqvarna and it says it's a 60w alternator that is used with the heated grips and 2 led"s on the 227 so just researching this. There are 2 wires but could not find any wiring schematics on the LCT engine so will have to learn how to check what is coming out with the meter.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

478http://www.lausonpower.com/pdf/lct quick reference guide_small.pdf


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Coby7 said:


> By putting then in series you'd only get a quarter of the power to each.


Yup, sorry, I didn't clarify the exact power difference. Like I said, much less effective at warming you up. But hey, if it's some heat, or none at all, I'd rather have *something*  

And if an overloaded alternator wouldn't be damaged, but would still provide, say, 10V with the heaters in parallel, then your light would be somewhat dim, but you'd still get significantly more heat than if wiring them in series at 12V total, 6V/heater. 

Or, heck, wire it on a switch to run a single heater at a time, and trade off which hand gets to be comfy. There are multiple options for how to tackle the problem, fortunately. And LED lights, or no lights at all, can also help. A more-reasonable option might be to have the switch toggle between the light, or heaters. Pick your poison, based on the weather, light, and what you're doing. For clearing EOD at night, deal with cold fingers. And when safely in the driveway itself, warm your hands up.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I will continue the research on this, Thank you all for the info so far and hopefully all works out, Worst case I will run them in series wrapped on the outside of the grips with the heat shrink but hoping I can run them in parallel, Really need to learn more electrical as that is my weak point., Or maybe get a smaller LED LOL The set says 18W but only running one but not sure if the 18W is for one or both? Theses are the lights I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R75NK1M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The listing says "2x 18W", so I'm guessing each light assembly draws 18W, or 36W for the pair, if that's what you're talking about. 

By putting a multimeter inline (in series) with a single light, and connecting it to a 12V car battery, you could measure the amperage draw of the light. If it's right around 1.5A, then that's 18W for the single light. And if it's only 0.75A, then great, the light is only drawing 9W, and it was 18W for the pair together.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

But my big question is is the 18w light and the grips too much for the 60w on the engine, I almost understand this lectric stuff LOL Almost....


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

If you have specific heaters in mind, and they list a wattage, then we can figure it out. Otherwise we're just making (educated?) guesses. Like my example that my machine is using either 5A or 3A+5A output, and has an incandescent light, and heated grips.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Ordered 2 sets as one was super cheap and the other just cheap LOL
The 2 temp ones claims 19.8W on high
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SNOWMOBILE...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

and the single temp version which claim 25w
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Univer...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Well, even if we assume those are per-grip (and I don't know), then the 2-temp ones on High would draw 19.8W * 2, or 39.6W, plus 18W for your LED, and you're at 57.6W. 

Set them to Low, and they 16.2W each, for 50.W total. 

Either way, it sounds promising, at least for the 2-temp ones. The really-cheap ones, at 25W, could be trouble, assuming that's per-grip. If it's total, then go with those, you'll get a little more heat. You can also measure their resistance if you want, which would give enough info to allow calculating their power/amperage draw. 

The amps will be 
Amps = Voltage / Resistance
or: 
I = V/R

If, hypothetically, you measure 5 ohms of resistance for one heater, then the amps will be
I = 12V/5 ohms = 2.4A
And Power = Voltage * Amps
or: 
P = V*I
so
P = 12V * 2.4A = 28.8W for one heater


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

UM I THINK I understand what you said, Really weak on the electrical, Will go with the hi/low to use less power and hope I get lucky and that is for both grips, As they are wired in parallel for the hi/low aspect so I am apt to think that is for both but as many times before, I could be wrong (Just don't tell my girl that LOL) You have been a great help RedOctobyr, Would buy you lunch, HMMM Your not all that far away so maybe I could at some point.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Ha, that's very kind, thank you, but I'm not trying to get anything out of it, just trying to someone out a bit when I can. 

It was a quick and imperfect explanation on my part, mainly to give an example. Ask any questions you have, and I'm sure you'll get good answers, there are a lot of helpful people here.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

I was in the same situation a few months ago when I was trying to figure out a set up for a recent HS1132 rebuild. The factory coil for the 1132 is rated to be 15W which is too little for anything but the weak factory headlight. As far as I recall, most OE hand grips work on AC current in series set up, they need at least 25~50W to run, at 25W they might be warm where as 50W they'd get nice and toasty. 

I have experimented with a few different OE hand grips, IMO the cub cadet "orange" hand grips are no go as they require too much power to be useful, the black ones from the recent model ariens are the best as they are not plastic heavy as the cub cadet and MTD ones. I hooked up the cub cadet ones to a 12V battery and it took a while before they got warm where as the ariens ones I had almost immediately got toasty. 


The HS1132 I am working on right now got upgraded to HS928 dual 50W/3A coils as I intended to run the heated grips and two 10W cree LEDs. I fired up the machine yesterday and am happy to report that the hand grips work fine so do the LEDs. Turning on the hand grips while the LEDs are running doesnt dim the lights either, which I was afraid of in the beginning. 

So in your case 60W should be ample. Check out this page, they state that their grips need 35~40 Watts. 

Snow Thrower Grips


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I'm not sure heated hand grips are all that effective . . . might be better to put the $$ toward a pair of glove liners for better insulation.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Respectfully, have you tried them?  Mine are pretty effective. I'd had "good" gloves, and still got cold fingers in some storms. Now I have a machine with hand warmers. No more cold fingers, even when it gets cold and breezy!


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

RedOctobyr said:


> Respectfully, have you tried them?  Mine are pretty effective. I'd had "good" gloves, and still got cold fingers in some storms. Now I have a machine with hand warmers. No more cold fingers, even when it gets cold and breezy!


My Husqvarna machine has them . . . maybe that the heated grips are not as good as on some other brands., but they did not seem to make much difference.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

tpenfield said:


> My Husqvarna machine has them . . . maybe that the heated grips are not as good as on some other brands., but they did not seem to make much difference.


As I mentioned in my previous post, the MTD/Cub cadet orange grips are OK at best, the black ariens ones are the bees knees though, a must have even if you have good gloves.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Mine are the stock Ariens heaters that came on the machine, for reference.


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## jonnied12 (Jan 14, 2017)

Your machine may be different but here is the way mine is wired. I do not have the electric chute controls though.


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## baymee (Nov 10, 2018)

I have a Troy snowblower that came with handlebar heaters which stoppd working. There is a diode in the harness that converts 24 vac to 12 vdc that I think has failed. I cannot find info anywhere about that diode. The fuse is 7.5A.

Does anybody know where I can get a replacement diode or even what to look for?


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