# Help Id-ing Ariens Sno-Thro



## Truckguy24 (Sep 20, 2015)

Hi all,

I'm new here and I decided to tackle this project to learn more about engines. Big car guy and this will be a nice added skill. 

A little background on the blower. I'm 24 and my dad owned this as long as I can remember. He got a Honda from my grandpa and ended up retiring this in the early 2000's. Around 2008-09 he bought a commercial grade Ariens that we have used since. This has sat under a tarp for nearly 15 years. He kept up on greasing everything and does not appear to be seized. I will be doing a full restoration on it and will repower it if I have to. Any ideas on year or info? No stamped serial number for the blower as a whole. Just the engine.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I'd say it's either from the 60's, 70's, 80's, or 90's:wavetowel2:
Welcome aboard truckguy, the guys here are pretty good, but some will need to see the item in question.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

it could be from mid 60s to mid 70s. can you make out the engine shroud numbers?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

You can look up lots of stuff on moderator Scot's Ariens site here:
The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.
Chute crank,muffler, pin in the left handlebars, serial number, looks like late '65 or carry over '66. October of '65 is the Tec serial number.
You can look around here for a stamped number, may take some rust removal or dedicated looking.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

:white^_^arial^_^0^_ Truckguy. From the engine serial number(5292) and the looks of the snow blower, I would say it is a 1965 or a1966 model. The 5 in the serial number is the year and it could be a 65,75,85 or 95. Tecumseh engines were labeled this way until the 2000's?

You beat me jt.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Truckguy :white^_^arial^_^0^_



And chance this is the model/serial number plate for the front half and not the clutch info sticker ??
I can't tell from the photo which it is.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Its a 1965 model 10M6.

features on the machine, and the Tecumseh engine code, all say 1965.
We also know its a 6hp engine, and it does not appear to have a differential,
which means there is only one model it can be: 1965 model 10M6.


Scot


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## Truckguy24 (Sep 20, 2015)

Thank you for all the responses! There are no markings on the blower other than the serial tag shown. I stumbled across that website in my search and that eventually caused me to join. I can't find a darn number in any of those places. I will sand blast it so maybe something will show up. I'm curious - didn't the 60's models have the shorter sides where the augurs show through? Mine is fully covered on the sides.


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## Truckguy24 (Sep 20, 2015)

Never mind, those appear to be the early pre 65 models. 

How should I go about finding replacement parts since I don't have a known serial number? I'd like to order a new carb.


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

I found a new carburetor for your engine but it is pretty expensive at $92.
Carburetor 631827 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com 

You might want to find one off another engine. Depending on the condition of the engine you could probably replace the engine with one off another machine.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The Ariens site and "Parts Radar" is excellent for searching for parts and part numbers and then either buying from them or using the numbers to search for a better price.
Ariens Genuine OEM Parts and Accessories

Anything engine, and you have the engine numbers on that plate so you can order for exactly the right engine.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

for what people want for a new carb just predator it for the same price, spending 90 bucks on an engine that probably wont run is insane


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

43128 said:


> for what people want for a new carb just predator it for the same price, spending 90 bucks on an engine that probably wont run is insane


I agree $90 just a carb is insane..
but taking that $90 out of the equation, many people would think replacing the carberator on an original engine is a MUCH better idea than replacing the engine with a Predator engine..
Not everyone thinks the "cheap chinese junk" engines are a great thing..

personally, I would much prefer $50 for a new carb versus $90 for a predator..(I wouldnt use a predator at all..ever.)

If I couldnt find a carb, I would park the machine until I could find a whole replacement (old Tecumseh) engine. you can get "parts snowblowers" between zero to $40, all the time..

scot


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

And here I thought it was a 1975 model:facepalm_zpsdj194qh but then what do I know anyway.:smiley-confused009::smiley-confused009::smiley-confused009::smiley-confused009::smiley-confused009::smiley-confused009:


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I'd buy a can PB Blaster and hit all the bolts today if your a gonna refurb it. That includes the wheel bolts, head bolts, spark plug, handlebar nuts and bolts, everything you can find. Pull the spark plug and spray some in the hole and pull it over nice and slow (if it pulls, if not let it soak), stick the plug back in. Let it sit a day or two and retreat with PB two or three times a day. Personally I'd pull the engine and get it up on a bench before trying to run it. They are light and can be bolted to a board to test run them. I have a sheet of 3/4" plywood around the same size as the tractor engine mount area with holes for the bolts. On the bottom of the board I have a length of deck spindle securely mounted. I cut the spindle to fit between the cranking screws on my B&D workmate. Snug the board in the workmate with the engine mounted and you can test run it all day, plus you can move it around where you need it. I'd also wait on the carb, it may look nasty from the outside, but they can surprise you and clean up nice. Digital pics of the linkages and carefully take it off with the mounting bracket. That should have a mounting spacer to the engine. It will look like you need to remove the nuts to remove the carb, but I think if you look in real close you'll see some phillips head screws kinda hiding that actually go to the block. Those are the ones you want to get it off. Watch for any wires hooked to the bracket. I would also remove the recoil assembly and replace the rope before you even attempt to start the motor. Save yourself a sore elbow and slap in the face when the rope breaks:facepalm_zpsdj194qh Let's you lube up the dog on the starter cup and see if any mice have passed away inside the shroud.
Spray the tractor and bucket down with degreaser and pressure wash it, then start working on the bolts. Then do what you started there with labeled baggies, keeping stuff organized.


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## Truckguy24 (Sep 20, 2015)

Great info thank you! I treated it with liquid wrech over the past few weeks and the bolts have come out great. When I pull the rope I hear a puff from the muffler. The valves and piston all move as they should - pulled the cover off. I have a new plug, new fuel line and was planning to do exactly what you said with benching the motor. Does anyone know the carb I would need? I have a small engine repar book coming today as a matter of fact.


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## Truckguy24 (Sep 20, 2015)

I also have pulled off the shroud and it was clear of debris. The nest is behind the flywheel. Not sure how to get that crap out LOL


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

IMHO PB Blaster is a better choice than Liquid Wrench.

The Predator has it's place and some love it and others .... This blower having been in the family so long I'm guessing you want to try and keep it original ??

Best way to get the flywheel off is to get a puller but there are tricks with hammers and a pry bar. - > https://www.google.com/#q=youtube+remove+tecumseh+flywheel
I have a steering wheel puller and long bolts. If you don't own a puller they are loaner tools at Oreilly, Autozone, ... the bolts you have to get at a big box store.

Have you checked to see if you have any spark when you spin it ??


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

the problem with the tecumsehs is the price for spare parts keeps rising and people want like 300 for a used engine


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Looking for a mower, blower, power washer, ... with a broken something but a good engine might be a way to go. I've seen where a used engine is way more expensive than a used engine attached to something someone wants to get rid of. Just pull he engine and post the whatever as "scarp" on craigslist and it'll be gone in no time.


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## Truckguy24 (Sep 20, 2015)

I will keep you all updated how I make out. Thank you


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