# Runaway Ariens 28 SHO



## pfunctional (Dec 14, 2017)

Hello,

I recently noticed an issue with my Deluxe 28 SHO where when I am going down my driveway and try to slow down, and let off the drive lever, the weight of the unit causes it to just start rolling away quickly, it does not hold itself like it were in gear at all, and I cannot down shift with the drive engaged, so there is no good way to slow down, this could cause an unsafe situation if my feet lose traction... I'm guessing this is not normal ??? I had the drive plate replaced last year under warranty when it failed after 5 uses and the machine would not move... the unit is still under warranty for another month or so..

Thanks


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## jburson250 (Oct 25, 2017)

pfunctional said:


> I recently noticed an issue with my Deluxe 28 SHO where when I am going down my driveway and try to slow down, and let off the drive lever, the weight of the unit causes it to just start rolling away quickly, it does not hold itself like it were in gear at all.


If the bucket or handle bars are pointed down hill, and you release the clutch lever then walk away from the machine, it will roll.

Having a "gear" selected - forward or reverse - makes no difference. Whenever the clutch lever is released the friction disc and the drive disc are not (or should not be!) in contact. The machine will roll due to it's own weight. How fast is determined by the steepness of the hill it's on.

If the surface is flat, or nearly so, and you release the clutch lever, the machine will roll to a stop. But not necessarily instantly, since there is no brake.

The only brake the machine has is for the auger - that's how the auger is able stop within 5 seconds of releasing the auger lever.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Try turning the machine 90 degrees to the slope so it will sit stationary on the side of the slope.


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## pfunctional (Dec 14, 2017)

Well I seem to remember it having some kind of rolling resistance before I had it serviced. . My old snowblower certainly never rolled this fast, it is freewheeling, there should be some sort of resistance.. its a safety issue if my boots slip and I cant stop or steer it or even hold on to it at the end of the driveway ....


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Perhaps the free play between drive plate and rubber tired driven disc is not sufficient and there is still some drive when clutch released. On the left side of the chassis just behind the impeller chute there is a rectangular opening with a black pointer at the forward end when clutch released. See attached picture. The black pointer is attached to the drive plate so when you use the traction drive lever it should pull back the pointer a noticeable amount, perhaps an 1/8" or so. If the pointer is not at the forward end, but always an 1/8" from the forward end then you definitely have the clutch engaged and it needs to be loosened at the cable on left handlebar so it can return to the forward edge.










Good luck.


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## jburson250 (Oct 25, 2017)

With the engine stopped, on a flat or nearly flat surface, select forward speed 1 or 2.

Diagnostic #1: Start the engine. Do not touch the drive clutch lever. Does the machine attempt to move forward? *If so, the drive clutch cable is too tight.* Loosen it a bit as suggested by Town in Post 5. You can repeat this with either reverse speed selected, if you want. It should not attempt to move backward.

Diagnostic #2: Start the engine. Do not touch the drive clutch lever. The machine should be stationary. Grab both handlebars without engaging the drive clutch. Push forward a foot or two. Pull backward to where you started. The wheels should roll in response to your push/pull. The skids on the bucket should drag on the pavement. Does the machine roll freely in both directions? *If so, the machine is operating correctly.*

Diagnostic #3: Start the engine. Do not touch the drive clutch lever. Move the blower out to where it "freewheels" away from you. Stop the engine. Let go of the handlebars. Does it roll down the hill? If the hill is steep enough, it will roll. The only resistance to the roll is the friction of the skids and the pavement. You can repeat this with the engine running. Engine vibration might cause the machine to slowly roll, if it did not roll when the engine was stopped.

With the clutch adjusted correctly, and the clutch lever released, the only "braking" force your Deluxe 28 SHO can provide is the friction between the skids and the pavement.

In your old blower, it's possible the rolling resistance you felt on clutch release was due to bad wheel bearings/bushings, or possibly rust between the axle shafts and the wheels. Either of these would be the result of age, and/or incomplete seasonal maintenance.


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