# First oil change AX414 cc with side drain



## Bob z (Apr 5, 2015)

First 5 hours (not many storms so far), drained oil and added 38 oz. of 5-30 synthetic. Made this simple trough to save having to remove the wheel. Worked perfectly. Used a piece of aluminum left over from trim on house, bent it one side higher so oil will not spill.


----------



## Mr Fixit (Nov 19, 2013)

I use an old license plate. I put a large key ring in the top hole. I slip that ring over the drain extension off the motor. Slide/trough quits slipping off to create a mess.


----------



## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

just did the first oil change on my old repowered ariens, no extension tube on it, but did something "kinda" like you did Bob. on the chonda, there is just enough room under the block to slip a piece of thick paper ( cut from a dog treat box). slid a tab under the block, folded up the sides to make a trough, blocked the machine up so it was well tilted to the right, and basically no spill ! well just a few drops when i removed my disposable trough.


----------



## setrusko (Jan 17, 2016)

I bought one of these and it has worked out pretty well.

FORM-A-FUNNEL | Oil Change Funnel | Auto Repair Oil changing kits


----------



## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*DRAIN-ZIT has an App 4 that.k:k:k:k:k:*


----------



## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

No Drain Plug/Drain Pipe to the rear, so that you could just tilt the Blower back on its wheels ?

Like on a Tecumseh with a 6" Drain Pipe ?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I just slit a 2 liter pop bottle the long way and use that. Wipe it down and store it with the drain pan and use it over and over.


----------



## chrisexv6 (Feb 4, 2014)

setrusko said:


> I bought one of these and it has worked out pretty well.
> 
> FORM-A-FUNNEL | Oil Change Funnel | Auto Repair Oil changing kits


I got one of these to clear the sway bar on my car when doing an oil change.....have used it for many other applications, including changing oil on my tractor and snowblower. 

Very handy!


----------



## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

I use a piece of old plastic sprinkler tubing. runs right into my oil collection basin. very little mess.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Cut the side out of an empty motor oil plastic bottle and use it as a funnel. If you have a tight area, cut out the narrow side. Or cut out the wide side and have a larger area to catch the stream. Plus you have the spout for the oil to flow into another container. Can't be the cost for this one.


----------



## shallowwatersailor (Feb 19, 2013)

Bob z said:


> First 5 hours (not many storms so far), drained oil and added 38 oz. of 5-30 synthetic. Made this simple trough to save having to remove the wheel. Worked perfectly. Used a piece of aluminum left over from trim on house, bent it one side higher so oil will not spill.


Good idea on using a leftover piece of trim to drain the oil. I wonder if it is too early to use synthetic oil. The rings need to seat and that takes about 20+ hours normally. I finally used synthetic this season on my snowblower with 17 hours on the Techy.


----------



## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

ive never heard 20 hrs for break in ? some blowers wont see 20hrs in 5 years.


----------



## shallowwatersailor (Feb 19, 2013)

nwcove said:


> ive never heard 20 hrs for break in ? some blowers wont see 20hrs in 5 years.


It is a common recommendation on new engines. You are right, many blowers will take a few years to reach that number. I have an hour meter on mine and that is why after 7 years of ownership, it finally received synthetic oil. There were two seasons it never was used.

Here is a pdf from an aftermarket ring company. They don't recommend synthetic to break an engine in.

http://www.totalseal.com/pdf/InstallationSheet2010_2.pdf


----------



## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

5 Hrs for me on OPE - then Syn.

My cars for the last 15+ years have come with Syn right from the factory.
The 2 most recent ones have a 1200 miles factory required oil change, but I'm sure it's syn with some break in additives in it..


----------



## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

yep, im with the 5 hrs on ope. my chonda user manual doesnt even mention a need for dino oil for its first fill up/break in, only states an oil change after the first 5hrs.


----------



## AMSOIL (Dec 23, 2011)

You can use Synthetic Oil right from the get go. It is all compatible so no worries. Since oil is already in the machine when you bought it, then i would use it. There is no need to discuss the "Additive Packages" or the methods used for "Hydro Cracking" or "Hydro Polishing" because it is irrelevant to answer your simple question. No Worries!


----------



## Zedhead (Jan 1, 2016)

Not necessarily true. Research Subaru Oil Consumption. They are trying to blame faulty rings. IMO the rings never seat properly.


----------



## AMSOIL (Dec 23, 2011)

Oil Analysis(OA) would prove otherwise considering the ratio of fault/success rate. Majority of people today are always first to point their finger at the "Oil"(any brand) when there is a failure of any kind without considering or knowing the processes of determination.


----------



## AMSOIL (Dec 23, 2011)

Subaru realized that the oil consumption was due to their manufacturing and not the oil. For a Corporation to foot the bill for a major repair and the number of specific vehicles affected speaks volumes. It is somewhat common to lose up to 25% (+-) of oil due to volatility but Subaru has a history of engine problems(incl. block) so this is not a surprise.


----------



## shallowwatersailor (Feb 19, 2013)

Zedhead said:


> Not necessarily true. Research Subaru Oil Consumption. They are trying to blame faulty rings. IMO the rings never seat properly.


We have an '11 Subaru Forester that used Subaru synthetic 0W-20 from new. Even did the 3K oil change that was an afterthought by Subaru. Now with 34K and out of warranty, it uses oil at a rate that is acceptable to the manufacturer - but more than any other vehicle I have ever owned. I attribute it to the fact that the rings never seated properly using synthetic from the beginning.

My GMC with the 8.1 Liter engine, that has a history of using oil, did improve consumption using the oil from Superior, WI. Synthetic oil does work but unfortunately improves viscosity so much that it doesn't allow an engine to properly break in.


----------



## AMSOIL (Dec 23, 2011)

The never ending story with oil consumption from Subaru. Synthetics are already in newer cars such as Corvettes as they come off the assembly line and annotated in their owners manual like most all vehicles today. The consumer has to remember that if the "Oil" meets the Specifications of the manufacturer it cant be the oil it has to be a pre-existing condition and warrants a recall such as Subaru.


----------



## CraZySteve (Nov 1, 2013)

Bob z said:


> First 5 hours (not many storms so far), drained oil and added 38 oz. of 5-30 synthetic. Made this simple trough to save having to remove the wheel. Worked perfectly. Used a piece of aluminum left over from trim on house, bent it one side higher so oil will not spill.


I just put the blower on a 6x6 block I have, pull the clip and remove the wheel - then I slide a milk crate over to support a standard drip pan.


----------



## Zedhead (Jan 1, 2016)

Personally, If I had a brand new engine, the first thing I would do would be to dump the synthetic oil out of it, and replace with Dino oil. Just to get the rings to seat.


----------



## Zedhead (Jan 1, 2016)

AMSOIL said:


> The never ending story with oil consumption from Subaru. Synthetics are already in newer cars such as Corvettes as they come off the assembly line and annotated in their owners manual like most all vehicles today. The consumer has to remember that if the "Oil" meets the Specifications of the manufacturer it cant be the oil it has to be a pre-existing condition and warrants a recall such as Subaru.


I've been driving Subaru's for 15 years. I've done 8 HG jobs for myself, and other owners. Numerous T-Belt's and a couple of complete rebuilds on 3 Flat 4's. 
I'm no newb to engine work. I've NEVER had an engine use more than 1.5 quarts of oil between changes. IMHO, OEM's/EPA are leaning heavily on Synthetic oil to sell the notion of 7500 mile oil changes.

If your rings don't seat in 1000/1500 miles, your never going to get them to seat properly. Many believe, myself included, that Synthetic Oil does not allow the rings to get hot enough to properly seat.


----------



## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

Zed, after reading thru this, I think I have to agree with you here. While direct injection engines on cars and trucks now a days have their advantages, we are seeing quite a few manufacturers who are having issues with oil consumption. Many manufacturers now say that burning 1 quart every 1000 miles is acceptable. In my book it is not. Some think the solution is with oil catch cans and modifications to the EGRs and other things like that, however... many of these folks having these issues are the ones who will baby their vehicles with the right intentions, yet are also the ones who go changing out the factory filled oil after 2000 miles (or less!) and will also change out the fluids in the front and rear diffs, transmissions, axles, transfer cases, power steering, you name it. All because they want to get a true synthetic product into the components as soon as possible. While it is true that some manufacturers will have certain additives added into the factory filled full synthetic or synthetic blend that are there for the purposes of help with the break in procedures.. there really is no proven reason to change out that oil at 2000 miles and not let it go the 5000-7000 miles before changing it. I've followed this practice on the new GM vehicles I've owned in my time (2013 Impala with 3.6L DI engine, 2007 GMC Sierra with 5.3L non-DI engine, and 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD with the Duramax Diesel) and not once have I had any problems with oil consumption. I change the oil every 5000-7000 miles on my car, using dexos approved full or blend synthetic (done at the dealership or my trusted independent mechanic who knows more about vehicles then the dealers do) and I would change the oil every 7,000-10,000 miles on my Duramax, depending on how I drove it those miles in-between oil changes. I believe in doing the same with the snowblowers. Follow what is recommended, and don't worry about it. In fact, many of the snowblowers I work on for my church still had the factory oil in them and a few of them were 5-10 years old with maybe 5-10 hours most on a couple of them. They run well (All Ariens products except for one Honda HS track model) In the older John Deere 826s and TRS27s.. With the exception of 1, the Techumseh's have held up reasonably well. Even the ones I've really hammered on in a few snow storms. It's always the augers or belts or friction discs that are going out on them. The one exception.. I'll get into later this week once i get the bucket taken care of and back together. I think it may have a timing issue. Going to look to you folks for some advice there. 

This has been a great thread and I am learning a lot so keep the feedback coming folks, don't be negative or critical but just realize we have all learned things our own way and we are all here to share opinions and thoughts.


----------



## Zedhead (Jan 1, 2016)

The last new car I bought (1997 Pontiac Grand Prix) had the bullet proof cast iron 3.8L.

I drove it 200 miles and changed the oil with Dino Oil. After that OC, I went with Mobil 1 for the rest of it's 230K miles. Until a texting while driving young lady rear ended it and totaled the car. It never required oil between changes. 

Even with the ring lands moving closer and closer to the crown of the pistons in modern engines, there should not be excessive oil consumption. IF the rings seat properly.


----------



## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

Zedhead said:


> The last new car I bought (1997 Pontiac Grand Prix) had the bullet proof cast iron 3.8L.
> 
> I drove it 200 miles and changed the oil with Dino Oil. After that OC, I went with Mobil 1 for the rest of it's 230K miles. Until a texting while driving young lady rear ended it and totaled the car. It never required oil between changes.
> 
> Even with the ring lands moving closer and closer to the crown of the pistons in modern engines, there should not be excessive oil consumption. IF the rings seat properly.


How many head gaskets or manifolds did ya go thru in those 230k?


----------



## knu2xs (Jan 6, 2015)

Zedhead said:


> The last new car I bought (1997 Pontiac Grand Prix) had the bullet proof cast iron 3.8L.


I worked in the plant where your engine was built and was in quality for the last 10 yrs. before I retired.

It was probably around 2000, give or take a year, that we put feelers out for an engine exchange. We wanted a high mileage "fleet vehicle" that had the 3800 in it that we could study and in return we gave them a new 3800, and installed it, in return.

We ended up with a Taxi engine that had over 375,000 miles on it and when it was spec'd out there was little to no wear on the internals. This engine's parts were displayed on a table for a while in the plant with factory specs as well as what its measurements were.

I remember looking at it, more than once, and thinking that since Taxis do a lot of idling the mileage didn't represent its true usage. On top of that, I thought that whatever company it came from must have been on top of their maintenance.....:wink:


----------



## Zedhead (Jan 1, 2016)

GoBlowSnow said:


> How many head gaskets or manifolds did ya go thru in those 230k?


HG's-Exactly Zero.

Did have to do the notorious Intake Manifold replacement. NBD

Plugs were a PITA.


----------



## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Awesome story. And the 3.8L was quick and also gave vey good mileage in my '98 LeSabre. Do you think it is no longer made because it can't meet emissions standards ?

(sorry for the off-topic)


----------



## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

It is no longer made because it was outdated. GM as well as all the other auto makers needed to up the game to stay competitive with one another. Thus why we now have Direct Injection engines. I currently drive a 2013 Impala with the 3.6L 305 HP engine. Direct Injection, much peppier, better fuel economy. Mated to a 6-speed auto transmission. Your basic glorified rental car but it is not too bad, IF the transmission can get 200,000 miles out of it in REAL driving conditions (not all highway, but a good portion of city driving and some highway) with regular service intervals before crapping out. Transmissions have always been the weakest link in GM and Ford Products. Engines AND Transmissions, and just about everything else in Chrysler products save for Jeeps and some of the Dodge Ram trucks where it would usually be just the tranny that craps out at 80,000 miles.


----------

