# I need help with my 10,000 series



## Tyster403 (Jan 16, 2015)

I am trying to find a replacement carb.
I have a 10,000 series with a 6hp Tecumseh. Only # I can find on engine is SBH-196A serial 4227F (1964?). I think heater box and carb are off a 7hp. # on carb 577 9F29. Want to replace because shafts are worn and if I could replace it for $20-$30 rather than rebuilding it. I will be checking valves also.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Did you peruse e-bay for that carb. a lot of people find them there. or try amazon.com. I will leave the rest to the orange and white experts here. I do not play with those. ALOHA from the UNFROZEN TUNDRA.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

I bought this 



from ebay for about $25 for my 1965 10,000 with the H60 Tec. The choke lever needs to be twisted in order to work with the stock heater box. After the mod, the choke lever sticks out of the box just enough to move it. The carb itself is a direct fit. Can you post a pic of your heater box?


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## X10StingRay (Dec 8, 2014)

Hi,

The carb you have in the photo has the later '70s & '80s style choke that protrudes straight up. I'm guessing that's the carb cover you have. 

I just bought 6 more carbs (2 each of 3 styles) from this eBay seller to have in stock, and they are the 'Made in China' carbs, but are identical to what Oregon has in their boxes. (They would need an Oregon rebuild kit, or at least the needle #49-244 , due to a different needle seat design than Tecumseh)

Here's a link to a carb that would work if you have the 'top-twist' choke control. This one is a plastic shaft, and you may need a different knob for the way it attaches.

Carburetor for Tecumseh 632371 632371A H70 HSK70 7HP Snowblower Carb w Gasket | eBay $29




 










If you have the original side lever choke, this next carb will work;

New Carburetor for Tecumseh 632615 632208 632589 Engine H30 H35 Carb w Gasket | eBay $19
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/111387694836?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.com/itm/111387694836?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/ame]










The stipulation that it is for smaller H30 or H35 engines isn't an issue, as they all have the same internal jetting sizes. The choke lever is slightly bent in the picture from being in the box....it's how they come.

On many carbs, the issue is that the choke arrangement is different. I just switch the choke parts over to the new carb. Trying to search out an exact match part number isn't easy, or affordable sometimes, as you'll locate new old stock original Tecumseh, and they are expensive!

These carbs have one issue; the bowl mixture screw gasket isn't made of a durable material and may need to be replaced as they tend to squeeze out from under the hex of the mixture screw. But for these prices, you can't go wrong.

I've been doing these carbs for years, and 90% can be saved if they aren't too damaged from water/ethanol corrosion. The 'carb family' you're shopping for are very similar, with slight variations, as to the fuel inlet style, and choke lever style. 

The original Tecumseh carbs of this size (H70 on down) are called 'rattle carbs' because there's a small pin trapped inside the idle circuit along side the threaded enrichment tube boss. When the carb is all apart, you need to hear the pin rattle inside when you shake it up and down. If not, it's stuck in there, and soaking it overnight in carb dip, flushing and gently whacking it on a soft piece of wood may break it free. You also need to probe the cross drilled hole up inside the threded area to make sure it's clear. This is the fuel feed for the idle cicuit.

There's many more things to rebuilding these carbs I didn't cover here....just felt like mentioning a few tid-bits.

Hope this helps....

Paul X10


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## Tyster403 (Jan 16, 2015)

Thanks alot. I decided to go with the $29 plastic choke. See ya'll around the forum.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum 

Let us know how the carb works out for you.


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## Tyster403 (Jan 16, 2015)

New carb on, runs, but still have some issues. Consuming oil, smokes out my shed BAD. Have changed oil once with straight 30. went down to add line after 2hrs of blowing. Also right after new carb 1st test run I noticed governor would bring up rpms when putting under load. last couple times I ran it, did not seem to bring up rpms when in deep snow but it seems to have pretty good power in the deep snow and keep going. I did check valve clearance while doing carb swap. I had .008 clearance on both. couldn't get the .012 in neither one. Have 95 to 110 on compression. Thinking about rebuilding engine this summer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should I be looking for OS valves? What size Piston?- prob wait on piston till I open her up! Oh and 1 fin on my impeller is bent, could I heat it up and straighten it??


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Yes, you can straighten that impeller if you heat it first.

For oil, most use 5w30. Regular 30 might be ok if you keep your machine heated, but probably not so good for real cold starts.


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