# Craftsman stalls, starts slow



## cs42778 (Aug 19, 2014)

I have a 536.886440 with 5 hp Tecumseh. Replaced spark plug and carburetor. Started ok in summer, but now very difficult, and when it does start, it stalls after a minute or so. I've tried both with and without fuel cap. I never could get it to start with recoil, only with electric start. Seems like holding the electric start for 10 seconds or more before it starts to fire, and longer to keep it running, is going to burn out the starter. My other Craftsman fires up on first pull or quick push of starter button. Any ideas of where to look would be great!


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Try fresh gas and toss in a bit of Seafoam
Clean up the points and condenser
Replace spark plug
Adjust the carburetor
Check any wiring, May have an exposed/frayed wire possibly causing weak spark
Make sure spark plug is set to the correct gap


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Sounds like a fuel problem somewhere.
But have you checked the spark plug wire?

I had a problem with my fitting and it sort of did that.
Here, http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/craftsman-snowblowers/1550-plastic-gas-fitting-replacement.html

The fuel line is not kinked anywhere? Clamps all tight? I replaced my clamps with the mini screw on types, I don't like the squeeze type.
The preprimer/bulb oK?

I got the ball rolling.
There are more experienced people here then me, someone should add to this shortly.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

SlowRider22 said:


> Try fresh gas and toss in a bit of Seafoam
> Clean up the points and condenser
> Replace spark plug
> Adjust the carburetor
> ...


He stated new plug and new carb.

Edit,
Have you tried fresh gas? Has it been sitting there all summer with the gas? 
Do you add stabilizer to your gas?


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Big Ed said:


> He stated new plug and new carb.


Yes, he surely did. 
However my comment still holds...a new carb may be clean and fresh, but the adjustment screws may not be set for his particular machine. 
And while rare, new spark plugs sometimes are defective. In the past 8 years since I began working on small engines, I've had a couple new plugs actually be the culprit in running poorly


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

SlowRider22 said:


> Yes, he surely did.
> However my comment still holds...a new carb may be clean and fresh, but the adjustment screws may not be set for his particular machine.
> And while rare, new spark plugs sometimes are defective. In the past 8 years since I began working on small engines, I've had a couple new plugs actually be the culprit in running poorly


My bad I did not see one word...adjustment.
All true then, yes and the plug could be bad if he dropped it or if it got banged up in shipping somehow.
It could be the plug wire itself, but I think it sounds more like it is in the fuel system somehow?


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Big Ed said:


> My bad I did not see one word...adjustment.
> All true then, yes and the plug could be bad if he dropped it or if it got banged up in shipping somehow.
> It could be the plug wire itself, but I think it sounds more like it is in the fuel system somehow?


No worries at all, Big Ed. 
This is how we figure out solutions to all these problems...different folks give input based on their knowledge and perspective, all the ideas are then put together, and that's how solutions come about


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## cs42778 (Aug 19, 2014)

Thank you all for your input! I've had 2 different new spark plugs in it, but I wonder about how strong the spark is. How well does a spark tester work? Thinking about picking one up. I drained the fuel and ran it dry before storage, I'll try some seafoam tomorrow anyway. I think I have a can somewhere. Also thinking of pulling the fuel lines and blowing them out if they still look good. I assume the prime bulb is good because 3 pumps leaves the carb dripping with gas. Getting cold here in Minneapolis, and only have a one car, unheated garage, so I'm hoping to figure this out soon and sell it!


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

SlowRider22 said:


> No worries at all, Big Ed.
> This is how we figure out solutions to all these problems...different folks give input based on their knowledge and perspective, all the ideas are then put together, and that's how solutions come about


I hear you. I speed read a lot, I ought to slow down or speed read twice.



cs42778 said:


> Thank you all for your input! I've had 2 different new spark plugs in it, but I wonder about how strong the spark is. How well does a spark tester work? Thinking about picking one up. I drained the fuel and ran it dry before storage, I'll try some seafoam tomorrow anyway. I think I have a can somewhere. Also thinking of pulling the fuel lines and blowing them out if they still look good. I assume the prime bulb is good because 3 pumps leaves the carb dripping with gas. Getting cold here in Minneapolis, and only have a one car, unheated garage, so I'm hoping to figure this out soon and sell it!


Sell it? What are you going to blow snow with?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Have you tried starting it by adding a little gas down the spark plug hole to eliminate carb or ignition issues? I have worked on a few Tecumseh's this summer that had poor compression due to no valve clearance holding the exhaust valve slightly open. Have you done a compression or leak down test to confirm no valve leakage?


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## cs42778 (Aug 19, 2014)

Haha, caught you speedreading twice, Big Ed! In my original post, I stated that my other Craftsman starts on first pull. I got this one dirt cheap from a friend who was too lazy to look at it. 

Grunt, is there a cheap tool to check compression with? What would I need? I'm new to the small engine world as of this summer. I've only done easy stuff till now, such as belts, friction wheels and gearboxes. To tell the truth, I have so little into this, I wouldn't be opposed to putting a new Predator engine on it. Ive heard good things about them and I saw I think a 7hp for $120 a while back


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

cs42778 said:


> Haha, caught you speedreading twice, Big Ed! In my original post, I stated that my other Craftsman starts on first pull. I got this one dirt cheap from a friend who was too lazy to look at it.


Dam did you just add that........watch what you say now I just cleaned my reading glasses. They where a little dirty. 

I completely missed it.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The 212 cc Predator is a good engine and many of us recommend them. First make sure your current engine has only one shaft and not two. They are often on sale for $99 and you can find coupons for 20% or 25% off.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

NGK 5798 BR2LM Standard Spark Plug | eBay

if you suspect the plug, order this, never had a doa ngk

if the exhaust valve is leaking, there will be a noticeable hiss from the muffler when pulled over slowly, like their was on my hm80

if i were you i would just order the predator, almost every honda part will fit


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

cs42778 said:


> Grunt, is there a cheap tool to check compression with? What would I need?


You could purchase a compression tester for under $20 at Harbor Freight or most auto parts stores if you think you might get into repairing other small engines. I believe Advance auto parts and some other stores will loan you the tool for free if a deposit is paid. As suggested, the Predator is a good alternative for around $100 if the rest of the machine is in good condition.


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## cs42778 (Aug 19, 2014)

Temps here in Minneapolis finally warmed up to near freezing, so I was able to go look into it. Rented a compression tester from auto zone and got a top compression of 30. I believe this should be much higher and definatly want a Predator now. Mine is single shaft, I shouldn't have any problem with assembly, should I? Just take my pulleys off the original and put them on the Predator and bolt to the chassis, correct? Thanks for all your help!


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

cs42778 said:


> Temps here in Minneapolis finally warmed up to near freezing, so I was able to go look into it. Rented a compression tester from auto zone and got a top compression of 30. I believe this should be much higher and definatly want a Predator now. Mine is single shaft, I shouldn't have any problem with assembly, should I? Just take my pulleys off the original and put them on the Predator and bolt to the chassis, correct? Thanks for all your help!


It would be correct if both engines have the same dimensions ie: height of shaft from motor base, same size shaft and same bolt on chassis pattern then you're good to go. Good Luck


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

yeah, your engine is pretty much screwed, i think the compression should be at least 80 psi, and 60 psi is the minimum to run correctly


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Might need the valve adjusted, but I agree that the Predator should be a good upgrade. Right now in the middle of the winter isn't the time to be playing around if this is your only blower. You can always fix the engine in the summer time and sell it then or get rid of it as is.

The Predator should give you a decent bump in power too for the heavier snows.


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## cs42778 (Aug 19, 2014)

Ok. It's just been so **** cold, I don't wanna go outside and work on this thing! I brought both engines inside today to work on them where it's warm (please don't tell my wife that I did this on her kitchen floor!) While swapping the pullies, I learned that the bolt in the end of the shaft is a different size. Since I am home with the kids all day, I'll be waiting till Friday to hit the store. Can't wait to hit Menards or Home Depot on black Friday! I suppose that gives me some time to soak the parts in Pine-Sol to remove the rust so they look nice on the new engine.

I do have one more question about the Predator. The manual states that spark plug gap should be .7-.8 mm. My gap tool shows the plug at .032 from factory. I've never gapped a plug more than .030, so I'm assuming that my gap tool is measuring in inches. Is this conversion about right?


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