# Picked up an old 910019 (1973/1974)



## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

I've been wanting to get a full-sized blower of this vintage with a differential transmission for some time now. Local guy was selling a 910019 along with a 35-10m mower attachment. The blower itself is in good condition, despite having been outside for the past 2 years. Nothing looks rotted away and all the rust appears to be surface rust. I was not able to test the original 6hp tecumseh engine because the recoil needs a new starter dog, but the owner said it had compression last time he checked. After some negotiating, I was able to bring the blower and the mower attachment home for $40. 

Here are some pics:












Not too much rust on the bottom, where my ST504 is rotting away. I think the scraper bar is in decent shape. What about the corners? Anything to worry about there?





Belt is in pretty sad shape. Will definitely replace. Anyone know what size?




One thing I noticed is a small 2-3" tear along the circular seam on the left side of the bucket. I think I might have accidentally caused this in transport (as I had to detach and load the bucket separately in my sedan. I may have accidentally picked it up by the shaft). If so, silly me. I'll just assume it was already like that. Here are inside and outside pics of the crack:





Any suggestions on what to do about this? Simple JBweld on the inside? Or should I detach the auger assembly and bring the blower to a shop to weld it? I'm disappointed about this crack, as the circular seam seems to be a weak spot in an otherwise heavy-duty bucket. Funny thing: This type of bucket looks like those on the 75-78 models, as pre 75 buckets are usually the "flat with racing stripes" design. Yet mine says model no 910017, which according to Scot's site accurately dates it with the tractor at 73-74. Interesting. 



How does the differential lock work? I pulled the pin out toward me and moved the marker from in to out and vice versa, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. The wheels will not lock. Does something need to be oiled?

On to the engine: Since it hasn't been started in 2+ years, I want to be really careful here after I fix the recoil. What should I look to do? A little oil in the spark plug hole? Naturally I'll change the oil and drain the fuel. Anything else I should to do be safe here?


Any other suggestions on where to go here? I'm pretty excited to have a machine like this. I'm very mechanically inclined, however it's mostly automotive stuff. I've rebuilt a carb on a Tecumseh before, but haven't done much with small engines and snowblowers. I really want to get into it and this seems like a good machine to play with. I'll be replacing the friction disk. Any other standard "tuneup" items? Further "rebuilding" type items? I'm not looking to flip this. This will be my primary machine (unless I find a nice 924039 some day). 

Also, here's a pic of the mower attachment. Haven't decided what I'm gonna do with this yet:




Thanks in advance!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I can't imagine that cracking just by picking it up by the shaft. Those shafts and mounts are super strong. I am sure I have picked mine up that way before. I wonder if the augers are rusted to the shafts and someone sucked something in there.

Not sure on the belt, but the parts manual should give you the Ariens number which should be easy to cross over. Found this link quickly, but didn't do any actual research to see if it is actually correct for you.
https://www.ombwarehouse.com/Ariens-72047-Snowblower-Belt-3-8-x-35-1-2.html

On my 78 and 80s 924xxx machines the lock has a pin on the back side. Pulled out is unlocked and pushed in pushes the pin into 1 of 3 holes on the hub behind the rim There is a spring to push it in and a little ledge to hook onto when you spin it to "off". Either the pin is broken, the holes are plugged up, the shaft is a little rusty and the spring isn't pushing it in all the way. Usually you have to give the handlebars a little twist side to side for it to find one of the holes and snap in.

Check all the bearings for play as well as the auger bushings. Axle and outer auger shaft are the most worn usually. The jackshaft inside might need new bushings too. Check the oil in the front gearcase. Make sure the augers spin on the shafts with the bolts removed. Make sure those bolts are actual shear bolts.

Grease everything up real well when you are done.

Consider investing another $40 -$50 in a nice set of X-Trac or Snow Hog tires for better traction.

Also consider finding a used 1 gallon tank and swapping it with that half gallon tank. You might like the extra capacity and the larger tank should sit right on the same mounts with no modifications.

If you end up with engine issues you could go the $99 Predator route as well.

It looks like 910019 is suppose to be 8 HP? Maybe someone has changed the engine already.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

I checked to make sure the augers wiggle on the shaft so they're not frozen. I wonder what caused that crack? Any suggestions on what to do about it? 

Thanks for the link to the belt. It seem they also have the wrong model # for 8hp. According to Scot's site, 910019 is the 6hp model and 910018 is the hp model, but some references (like the link) have those crossed up. I'd be surprised if my 6hp isn't original. 

I'll have to check to see if the differential pin is connected to anything that's rusty. That wouldn't surprise me - every lever and switch needed some elbow grease to get moving. After all, it was outside for 2 years. Any suggestions on what to use to oil all these sticky parts on the machine (3-in-one, motor oil, etc.)?

What's the best way to check for play in the bearings? I pulled the shaft toward and away from me. Seems reasonably firm, but I'm not sure what they're supposed to feel like. 

What type of grease should be used? I'm guessing these shafts have standard zerk fittings?

What should I be looking for with the gear case oil? fluid level? Eyeball the color of the fluid?

I like the idea of investing in the X-trac or snow hogs. Are they much better than picking up a set of chains for the existing tires? Predator engine is always tempting, but I'd like to keep a Tecumseh on there as long as it's fiscally reasonable. 

I pulled off the recoil starter and it looks like it's all cracked inside. Fortunately my ST504 has the same starter and I swapped it on. I couldn't get it to crank and thought it might be seized, but I removed the spark plug and got it to budge. After a full pulls it felt fine. I put the plug back on and confirmed I definitely have compression. Tomorrow I'll change the oil, drain the gunky gas in the tank and see if she starts up. Carb looks terrible, so I don't have high expectations.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

where are you located, i would definetly be interested in the mower attachment, as i have been looking for one for a while. very hard to find and expensive when you do find them


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

I just picked up a 922003 20 inch bucket 5 hp Tecumseh . I believe its a 1974 or 75 model. It was also sitting outside for a couple of yrs so I think I am in the same boat as you in regards to trying to figure what works and what doesn't. Do you know what type of carbs these have? Mine will run for a few seconds if I pour gas down the spark plug . I'm going to try to get in running tomorrow. Good luck with yours!


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

@43128: Eastern PA, but I regularly find myself in NY. I haven't yet decided what I'm doing with the mower attachment (restore and use, or sell). 

@loneraider: I saw your thread. Nice find. Looks like it's the earlier version of my ST504. I, too, have the odd 5hp dual shaft engine on that machine. Not sure what time of carbs they have. 


As for the 910019: I replaced the fuel line and removed/cleaned the fuel tank. Lots of varnish. I cleaned as much of the carb as I could without removing the bowl (as the gasket will likely need to be replaced), but I'm not tearing further into it yet until I solve another problem: No spark. Replaced the plug, no change. These older machines don't have a key, but is there anything else that cuts off the ignition? I can't see anything inside the tractor that would kill it. Wire from inside the engine just hooks up to a metal piece near the carb. What kind of ignition system does this old H60 engine have? I'm hoping to look further, but I have a stripped rusted bolt on top of the engine that prevents me from opening it. Gonna have to try to dremel a slot and/or JBweld a socket on top of it to help remove it. 


Can anyone comment on what to do about the crack in the housing that I showed in my top post? JBweld? Have it welded? 


I've been trying to free up any moving linkages and was wondering what most people use. I've used WD-40 on some parts, but it's not really a lubricant. I also have spray lithium grease for the tighter areas, and mobil 1 synthetic grease for areas I can get to with my finger. Does the grease type matter?

On that subject, the manual says to use Ariens Moly Lithium grease on the transmission gears, shifter shaft, etc. Is the mobil 1 synthetic grease an acceptable substitute? Is the moly grease also the type of grease to shoot into the zerk fittings?

Thanks in advance.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

any lithium grease besides spray is acceptable. you must use lithium because in the cold weather the grease will become hard and stiff and make everything operate rougher


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The old engines used points. They probably need sanded down a little to clean to crud off of them from sitting.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

After fighting some rusted bolts and rounded heads, I finally dug deep enough to check the points. They seem really clean. Anything seem amiss here?



The first thing that stood out to me was the frayed black wire. I will certainly tape that up, however it's not evident that it was grounding out anywhere. 

Before I close everything up, does anything else seem obvious?


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

a lot of rust more then normal, i would check your coil and make sure the stacked steel isnt separating from all the rust, and i would replace the condenser to. if you end up needing a coil i have a bin full of used coils and have a few good tecumseh ones i could send you


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Thanks for the advice. Are these coils bench-testable?


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

with a multimeter yes


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

I pulled off the condenser and the coil and took a multimeter to it. 

From the spark plug boot to either of the two wires coming out of the coil, I get about 6000 ohms. Anything else I should measure to determine the condition of the coil?

I get no readings between the casing of the condenser and the ground wire.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

the coil is fine the condenser seems like its gone open. replace it

http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-33-008-Condenser-Tecumseh-30548B/dp/B0018U01NW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438053855&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=tecumseh+condensor


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

43128 said:


> the coil is fine the condenser seems like its gone open. replace it
> 
> Amazon.com: Oregon 33-008 Condenser Tecumseh Part 30548B: Patio, Lawn & Garden


Done and done. It's been ordered, along with new points. I'll check back here when I get around to installing it.

Thanks!


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

In the meantime, can anyone comment on the crack in the bucket? Since it doesn't seem to be under major stress, I was figuring on dabbing some jbweld from the inside. Any other ideas?


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i would bring it to an auto garage and ask if they could lay down a bead for you in that area. i dont think jb weld would hold up well in that area


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

My latest fight: Trying to defeat a rust-welded bolt. 

In order to get the cover off, I had to cut off the head of a rusted bolt that stripped, and even further rounded out with an extractor socket. I figured that I would have enough meat after I take the cover and bracket off to work with it afterwards:



I took a vise grip to it and gave it all my muscle. The engine was even moving slightly in the mounting bolts, that's how much torque I gave it. Still won't budge. Soaking it in PB blaster for days did nothing. I also heated it with a torch for a few minutes. Still nothing. 

The holes in these heads are not threaded, correct? If so, I imagine I would still be able to get the head off if need be, as this stuck bolt is essentially a stud now. However, I'm worried that since this is a head bolt, I'll have issues because the head is not properly fully bolted down. 

Thoughts?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Take a hammer and hammer straight down on it several times and then take a pipe wrench to it.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Shryp said:


> Take a hammer and hammer straight down on it several times and then take a pipe wrench to it.


I just tried it with a 3lb sledge. Still won't budge. The stud is deforming around the wrench


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

pull the head and cut the bolt smooth to the block, drill and retap


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I would try everything possible before cutting it.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Shryp said:


> I would try everything possible before cutting it.


My thoughts exactly. If I can avoid a drill/retap, I would like to. Especially because I want to at least see if she'll fire up before I invest too much money in it. 

Will having this bolt stuck like this affect the seal of the cylinder head?


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

dont think it will


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Shryp said:


> I would try everything possible before cutting it.





Stang said:


> My thoughts exactly. If I can avoid a drill/retap, I would like to. Especially because I want to at least see if she'll fire up before I invest too much money in it.
> 
> Will having this bolt stuck like this affect the seal of the cylinder head?


Yes. To seal effectively you need even amount of torque on the head to keep the head gasket from blowing out in the area were the head bolt is broken. I would cut my losses and re-power the snow blower. There is a reason why that snow blower hasn't been used in awhile is because it has a non running engine. Plus after a while moisture gets in the engine and rust occurs and old rubber crank seals deteriorate plus you will never be able to get that old flat head to run as well as a new modern OHV engine.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Yeah, I thought about a predator repower from the beginning. However, I'm not looking to flip this. Since this will be a machine I'll likely use, I'd like to get the old Tecumseh up and running for character. This is really a labor of love and I'll feel a great sense of accomplishment if I can get it running. Plus, I'm learning a lot about old L heads in the process. 

You're right though, with ongoing bad luck, this can turn into a money pit. 


So the consensus is split regarding weather the head will seal right. More thoughts on this, or how to get the broken bolt out without drilling/retapping?


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Stang said:


> Yeah, I thought about a predator repower from the beginning. However, I'm not looking to flip this. Since this will be a machine I'll likely use, I'd like to get the old Tecumseh up and running for character. This is really a labor of love and I'll feel a great sense of accomplishment if I can get it running. Plus, I'm learning a lot about old L heads in the process.
> 
> You're right though, with ongoing bad luck, this can turn into a money pit.
> 
> ...


I own 2 blowers and both are repowered with Predator 212cc engines. I use them all the time and the Predator 212cc engine runs great. You got a nice thick steel snowblower body and partner that with a quiet smooth running easy starting OHV engine and your set for winter.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

the head will seal fine for a quick test run but will blow out in a few minutes. i have 2 predators and honestly they are the best things you can do for these old blowers besides an impeller mod


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

I've read a lot of threads on the predator vs rebuild topic and don't want this thread to turn into that. Although a repower is not out of the question for me, I'd like to gather as much info as I can here on getting the existing machine up and running. 

Are the holes in the head threaded? I noticed that the bolts aren't fully threaded, so I'm thinking only the block is threaded. In that case, wouldn't I be able to pull off the head and eliminate an inch of the rust in the bad bolt right off the bat? I'm thinking that would give me access to shoot PB blaster on the actual threads.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

no they are not. you would still be able to pull off that head


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

I haven't tried any of mine yet but from what you are saying if the other bolts are only threaded on the bottom half and not the top it would seem
you could cut the top off the bolt, remove the cyl head and pb blaster it in the block with some good heat ( propane is maybe not hot enough )
you might get it to come out. 
Those bolts are threaded into the block, If I was stuck like that with mine 
I'd try it.
I too want to keep the original engine but also mines a dual shaft
and not as easy to re power. Good luck hope you get it out!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Yea, there should be no threads in the head, just the block. A little trick I use for stuck bolts is stick a wrench on them and then beat on the wrench with a hammer. A lot of times sharp and gentle shocks from the hammer will break them loose where a ton of force by hand will twist them right in half. It works kind of like a poor mans impact gun.

Of course, neither of those will work if the head is rounded. Surprised a pipe wrench wasn't working. Was there just not enough of the head sticking up?


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## sidegrinder (Apr 18, 2015)

How hot did you get the stud? As someone stated early, propane is oftentimes not hot enough.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

acetalyne should be more than hot enough


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Guess no one wants to go out on a limb to answer your crack question. Come on, someone must have an educated opinion. Myself, if I could get it welded cheaply, I would do that, but on the other hand, I don't see it as a stress area, so I would think that all you need to do is fill in the crack, so JB Weld should be fine - but these are shoot from the hip answers !


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

you could also try welding a nut to the stud


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

JB wield it.I have used this before on metal to fix a gouge on a oil filter
housing that I had to chisel off but its held up great. It should work fine for the bucket and once painted you'll never see it.
Any ideas how that split or cracked in the first place? 
Any luck with that cyl head bolt?


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Hi all, 

Apologies for the delay. I was on vacation. The new points and condenser arrived just as I was heading out the door, so I had to wait a good bit until I could try it. 

Today I finally got around to swapping them out. I set the new points (which are super cheaply made it seems - the points wouldn't sit flush with each other out of the box and I tried to bend it to accomplish this as best I can) and I gapped them at .020. For good measure I cleaned them with paper before sealing everything up. 

The result: No change. Still no spark. 

Anything else simple to check? I double-checked to make sure the kill wire wasn't grounding out and also disconnected it. No change. I could change the coil, but I don't know if I should toss any more money at the engine. 

Needless to say, I haven't taken another crack at getting the bolt off. I want to see a spark before anything else.


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

Something simple--- are the magnets on the flywheel loose? jb weld them if they are. Mine will not start unless the auger lever is in the up or down position, ya I know but its simple.
Bad spark plug wire or connection;.


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## sidegrinder (Apr 18, 2015)

Magnets can also weaken over time.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Update: I now have spark!

I was feeling ambitious today and decided to disassemble my ST504, knowing that it has the same ignition parts as the 910019. Stupid me broke the spark plug boot in the process, as I tried pulling out the connector since the boot wouldn't fit under the magneto mount (and I didn't want to take it off and retime the engine). Here's a pic:



So my first question is: what's the best way to fix this? For now, I pushed the broken part of the coiled wire back into the hole and wrapped electrical tape around it, and put the boot back on. I seem to remember that soldering a spark plug wire isn't ideal, but I figured I'd ask here first. 

Anyway - with the coil from my ST504 on, the 910019 has spark. The ground wire is functioning perfectly, as it cuts off spark if I move the throttle to Stop. I guess I can say I had a bad coil. FWIW, both coils measured 6000 ohms from ground to boot. 

So now it's on to fuel delivery. I opened up the carb and much to my surprise the needle is corroded in place and won't release, so I won't be rebuilding this one since I can get a new one for $25, but before I throw any more money at the engine I want to make sure she'll fire up. So I sprayed some carb cleaner down the throat of the carb and tried to turn it over. I can't get anything other than an occasional Poof, and the carb cleaner shoots back out the throat. No luck if I spray some directly into the cylinder head via spark plug hole, either. 

Any thoughts?


P.S. @RIT333: Thanks for the JB Weld comments. I think I'll go that route once the engine part of this project is done.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Further update:

I poured gasoline directly into the carb to have it trickle down into the bowl, bypassing the stuck needle. After a little backfire, the engine started up for 2-3 seconds (presumably until the poured-in gas was burned). Looks like with a good carb, this thing will run!

Any thoughts on my spark plug issue outlined in the post above?


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

get one of these universal boots from a dealer or ebay. dont solder the connector back on as they are one use only


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Stang said:


> Update: I now have spark!
> 
> I was feeling ambitious today and decided to disassemble my ST504, knowing that it has the same ignition parts as the 910019. Stupid me broke the spark plug boot in the process, as I tried pulling out the connector since the boot wouldn't fit under the magneto mount (and I didn't want to take it off and retime the engine). Here's a pic:
> 
> ...


I cant see anything broken with regards to the plug clip? its bent a bit, but appears to be otherwise in good shape. straighten it out, if the plug wire isnt to short, clip a few mm of the end, then strip the insulation off another few mm, fan the exposed strands back against the insulation, and reinstall the clip making sure that when its in position on the wire, its tight against the exposed strands and more importantly, puncturing the center of the insulation making good contact with the metalic core.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Time for a nice update. She's alive!

I decided to order an aftermarket carb as it was $28 shipped to my door. It finally arrived today. To my disappointment, the throttle plate was different than the stock one and I couldn't get the governor/ throttle spring linkage to sit right. I ended up swapping out half shafts with the original one and got everything to line up. Something to consider for people thinking about aftermarket carbs. 

The result? The engine started up on the first pull. After a half turn adjustment of the main jet, it now runs perfect at full throttle and idles smoothly. I had a little bit of blue-ish smoke for 5 minutes, but for all I know this engine hasn't been started in a decade so I'm sure some crap burned off. I ran it for a good 20 minutes with no ill effects. Augers engage smoothly and everything seems to be normal with the transmission (though the friction wheel does look worn). I started it up again after sitting for a half hour with no issues and no smoke. No oil coming out of the breather, so it looks like I might have a good engine here. 

Now it's decision time: What do I do about that snapped head bolt? We still have 2 schools of thought here - 1) Without that bolt torqued, I'll be looking at a blown head gasket eventually. 2) If the non-threaded portion of that bolt has rust-welded to the head's shaft, then the head is still secured and torqued down in that area and won't cause a problem. I'm indecisive about what to do here. Thoughts?

While I was waiting for the carb to arrive, I took a closer look at the augers. Previous owner replaced one the the shear bolts with a regular bolt, and the other one was starting to bend. I replaced both of them with proper shear bolts and greased up the shafts. I also greased the axle and the differential lock engages much more reliably now. I love that this has an automotive style differential. So solid. 

@nwcove: If you look closely, you'll see the plug clip is uneven. This is where it snapped when I was pulling off the boot.


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

Good news indeed as mine too has the blue smoke when I ran it but I only had it running a few min, hopefully she runs as good as yours.
A few people on this forum have pulled the heads off to de-carbon them &
i'm sure there are a few broken head bolts laying around. If its running good now maybe i'd leave it alone.
Thanks for the tips on the replacement carb you installed.!


Forum member CaddyDaddy Has a post where he replaced the head bolts
on his restore ... maybe he'll chime in here with his thoughts. 


1973 922008 refreshed and running again!


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Thanks for sharing your thoughts lone raider. 

I started it up again today and no smoke. I ran it for another 20 minutes. Looks like it's burning clean. 

Still on the fence about what to do about that head bolt. I would be interested in hearing more thoughts.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

What if you used a die from a tap and die kit to cut threads on that broken head bolt and then put a nut on it? Like you said, it's more of a stud now.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

43128 said:


> any lithium grease besides spray is acceptable. you must use lithium because in the cold weather the grease will become hard and stiff and make everything operate rougher


very sorry for this hijack.....but why is spray lithium bad ? ( just bought a can !! .....seemed like a good choice for those hard to reach places)


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

because spray lithium comes out watery and never becomes tacky like regular grease in my experience and is harder to control


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

db130 said:


> What if you used a die from a tap and die kit to cut threads on that broken head bolt and then put a nut on it? Like you said, it's more of a stud now.


That's a pretty clever idea, but there's not enough "meat" on the stud to do this. When I put the rear engine cover back on, it's almost flush


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

I can't figure this one out. 

So I ended up ordering a new coil and instead of putting it on the ST504 I took the other coil from, I decided the bigger machine should have the newer coil. Simple enough, right? So I take out the coil (and condenser, since the stock one is connected to the coil) and install the new coil (and new condenser) and crank it up only to find no spark again. Sigh..

So I figured maybe the new coil is bad, or the new condenser. I started playing around with connections and found something odd. If I loosen the nut on the ground stud coming out of the left side of the points (the stud that the kill wire and condenser and coil wires ground to), I get spark again. If I tighten it up, no spark. What gives? 

I'm not impressed with the stud on the new points. It's basically a philips head screwdriver that spins freely when you tighten the nut unless you grab the head with a needle nose. I can definitely tighten it up snugly, but I lose spark when I do so!

What is going on here? It's like the opposite of a loose ground. Very counterintuitive. I don't want to leave the nut on too loose and have it cut out while the engine is running.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

order a used oem coil off ebay or like i said before i have some spares and would be more then happy to throw one in a bubble mailer and send it to you if you pay shipping


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

Make sure the inter lock is not engaged or you get no spark
and also the throttle lever is in full position. Those are the two things that will kill spark, can't think of anything else at the moment.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Well I had it running for 20+ minutes with no problem. Weird. Looks like I had the ground post overtightened. Still strange, but everything appears to be in order and the new coil is functional. 

While I had everything open again, I decided to see if the cylinder head would come off. Looks like if I pull it too hard, the top part of the bad bolt will snap. Looks like the non-threaded part is really rust welded in there. I decided to leave it, and I guess I'll have to hope for the best.


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