# Sticky  MTD Powermore (clone type ohv) engine service manual



## laser3kw

Hi guys!
hope everyone is enjoying the holiday break.
I am looking for a actual engine service manual for a Cub Cadet 528SWE with the 370-SU(C) engine. The engine is the typical MTD Honda clone. I am looking for the rebuild specs including the various torque specs, clearances, valve angle, and normal information. If you have a link, please post it.
Thanks and Merry Christmas


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## RIT333

It was probably built by MTD, and a powermore engine. You may be able to get it by contacting MTD.


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## 140278

hope one of these helps you 

merry Christmas back


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## 140278

i stickied this thread so other's later on can find the mtd factory engine shop manuals more easily


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## laser3kw

captchas said:


> hope one of these helps you
> 
> merry Christmas back


Wonderful! It's a Christmas miracle! ⛄
Thanks for sticky-ing this for future inquiries.
Let's make this a repositor (post) for other manuals also. Post if you got them!


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## 140278

your very welcome,


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## 140278

here is a machine shop manual


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## NOS

laser3kw said:


> Hi guys!
> The engine is the typical MTD Honda clone. I am looking for the rebuild specs including the various torque specs, clearances, valve angle, and normal information. If you have a link, please post it.
> Thanks and Merry Christmas


Be precise or you could get any parts even from the dealer.
Since its a used engine and you are going to rebuild it make a point of finding out exactly what you have and come back to this thread.

I would suggest a roller kit for it as the easiest way to get up and running.
But if your willing to listen and ask the right questions I can line up up with some very specific places to buy individual parts and give you very specific information for assembly.
You have the opportunity here to build an improved engine with better parts than the OEM and tighter tolerances for better performance, longer life and your own piece of mind in the future

The predator option:
Predator 636 hemi ( last three digits of the SKU number on the box ) is a standard clone on the outside but with a bigger bore and longer stroke for a 212 displacement. If you have a standard clone all the parts will transfer but the carb and you will need to modify the 636 carb for a primer line ( not a big deal ).
The other predator the 212 wedge has slightly different mounting brackets for the tank and this might match the parts on your MTD.

You would have to show us some photos of the engine to make some calls on what you need.

Ask 3 people and you will get 3 different answers about whats better a rebuild or swap.
I will tell you its best to build an engine out of parts....

I like the 70mm over bore blocks, but in a standard clone casting.
I like the 636 predator piston in that block but with a HONDA OEM rod and 54mm cranks.
I like the 18cc head off the 5.5 Honda on that combination even though the valves are small ( you want torque not screaming top end here anyways )
I like the Honda Ignition over a clone.
I like the cast Champion generator valve train with Honda valves and exhaust retainers and caps on both valves for stability and ease of adjustment.
I like the Tillotson TF carb because its fully adjustable.

This is an engine that will reliably embarass every other stock machine on your block and now one will understand why it runs so good HA HA

I had a build pretty close to this on an Ariens and it was over clocked at 4000+ rpm
They will easily to that and not give you any trouble but they will put more stress on your tractor if you spin them fast.

I just realized this is an 11 month old thread. 
Uhm... just ignore me but keep the suggestions there for the next time.


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## laser3kw

NOS said:


> I will tell you its best to build an engine out of parts....


Do you have part numbers or model numbers from the various engines to get these parts?
Have you ever tried the Tillotson TCT carb / "fuel injection?
Right now, I'm balls deep in modifying my Cub Cadet with the 307su motor. I am trying to max the torque ant normal rpm. I have already:
seasoned head / shaved .020
valves and valve seat cut
mild port job and match all parts
port exhaust parts
bore carb
rework throttle shaft and butterfly
PS - I use to build kart motors for fun and profit


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## NOS

laser3kw said:


> Do you have part numbers or model numbers from the various engines to get these parts?
> Have you ever tried the Tillotson TCT carb / "fuel injection?
> Right now, I'm balls deep in modifying my Cub Cadet with the 307su motor. I am trying to max the torque ant normal rpm. I have already:
> seasoned head / shaved .020
> valves and valve seat cut
> mild port job and match all parts
> port exhaust parts
> bore carb
> rework throttle shaft and butterfly
> PS - I use to build kart motors for fun and profit


Not sure what the 307su motor is 208 or 212 do you know?
Best thing to do is measure and take some photos post them.

Don't port crazy just knock the corner off the short radius keep it simple.
I would not bore a carb if I were you its hard to tune after.

Build a Kart engine.
File fit a top ring make sure you have no taper in your bore keep it tight .005 is safe if your square.
Use thin head gaskets you want about .030 not more .025 not less piston to head clearance.

Yes the Tillotson carb is good I did try one, but it was not the performance advantage they claim.
it is adjustable with an Allen key and that's real nice

Ever read Kart World?
Garry ( Sneaks ) did some dyno tests with different carbs a few years back and one he tried was the series three carb off his 10 Hp tecumseh snow blower...
That didn't just happen in a vacuum.
I spent a whole year drilling, filling with epoxy fidling and finally building a couple of carbs with floats for racing and Sneaks and I talked about it all the while.
A stock one was dog prone to overflow because of float flutter...

You start to modify a carb and man that's a lot of screwing around.
The snow is falling and you really don;t want to go and start building carbs from scratch.
The TF is a known quantity, its designed to flow right and be adjustable for the track but its also adjustable enough to work on a utility engine
See mowing grass with it





Tuning is this easy.





The carb is not magic HP its just a nice adjustable one.


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## laser3kw

NOS said:


> Not sure what the 307su motor is 208 or 212 do you know


guess'n it's a 208cc?
I am doing a "top end" mod this year. If all goes well, maybe a total top to bottom build big bore / stroke deal (stock parts combo).
Have you ever seen the adjustable main jet (clone carb)? I saw a picture recently and am exploring the idea


> I like the 70mm over bore blocks, but in a standard clone casting.
> I like the 636 predator piston in that block but with a HONDA OEM rod and 54mm cranks.
> I like the 18cc head off the 5.5 Honda on that combination even though the valves are small ( you want torque not screaming top end here anyways )
> I like the Honda Ignition over a clone.
> I like the cast Champion generator valve train with Honda valves and exhaust retainers and caps on both valves for stability and ease of adjustment.


Do you have any useful part numbers? or model numbers? no rush...


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## NOS

laser3kw said:


> guess'n it's a 208cc?
> I am doing a "top end" mod this year. If all goes well, maybe a total top to bottom build big bore / stroke deal (stock parts combo).
> 
> Do you have any useful part numbers? or model numbers? no rush...


Depending on the crank and bottom end all this has to be seen and measured but my bet would be a Predator flat top piston.
Thin head gasket and a +0.10 rod to make up some in the hole clearance
I would just use a stock unmolested 18cc Honda head

When I got time and we have some measurements we can revisit exactly what parts are best.


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