# Ariens Deluxe 30" Engine Question



## biscut (Oct 18, 2016)

In 2014/14 (not positive of the year) my John Deere 828 had a side blow out and engine done. I ended up with an Ariens Deluxe 30" with an 306cc AX line engine. I'm in Dutchess Cty NY and that year we only had a few snowstorms. I did what I always do with engines; break-in and oil change. I use synthetic 5-30 and/or 0-40 depending on what is on my shelf. Those are the 2 oils I use. Had an issue at year 3 with the auger gearbox and the repair shop mentioned the shoe IIRC needed repair. I was surprised and raised the fact it had less than 20 hours on the clock with residential use. Ariens ended up covering it under warranty. No issue since. 

Want to check in and say Hi! and ask if there are any issues I should be checking into. I haven't had any engine issues and it runs well but I did toss that OE spark plug and replace with a NGK.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to SBF biscut









Spark plug replacement is always a good idea and going with an automotive name brand IMHO is the way to go. I use the Mobil 1 0-40 too.
I just this afternoon sold a 27" deluxe with the 254 cc. Great condition and ran like a top. I use Marine StaBil in my gas and try to get non-ethanol when possible.
Once a year pull the tires and lube the shafts, same with the shear pins and augers. Hit the grease zerks and keep a really light coat of grease or oil on the hex shaft and it should give you trouble free service for a long, long time.
I have a newer 28" Deluxe with a blown engine and a new 414 cc waiting for it just need to get off my butt. It's keeping my 1332 PowerShift company.

Not sure what you are referring to when you say the shop mentioned the "shoe" needed repair ?


















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## biscut (Oct 18, 2016)

Thank you Sir! The bottom pic is what happened to my 8HP Tecumseth on the Deere. It was about 17 years old and never saw a shop. Sorry, I am relatively clueless with snowblower terminology. I can see if I can find the repair invoice and get back to ya. I learned from wrenching on a Kawasaki brute Force that smaller engines are harder to work on than car/truck engines! I can change oil, plugs, gear oil, adjust cables, etc... Enough to get me in trobule. 

I have gone back and forth with 87 (I'm in NY and we get winter gas blend and I've never seen non-ethanol) and 93. It's confusing with those truly in the know still can't come to a consensus. So I'm using 87 and fuel stabilizer. I've read a few mention marine stabilizer is better so I'll do that. I make sure the carb is run dry before any storage. Hope that helps. Mine is 5/6 years old has electric start but usually starts 1 to 2 pulls on the cord so I don't use it.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

For fuel the best would be non-ethanol regular (87), then non-ethanol premium (93), then regular with ethanol and lastly premium with ethanol. I use Marine StaBil with all of it.
Running dry should keep you out of trouble but than I don't understand on a near new machine why you'd have a carb issue ? Seems like the old carb with fresh gas should have fired off easily for you.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> For fuel the best would be non-ethanol regular (87), then non-ethanol premium (93), then regular with ethanol and lastly premium with ethanol. I use Marine StaBil with all of it.
> Running dry should keep you out of trouble but than I don't understand on a near new machine why you'd have a carb issue ? Seems like the old carb with fresh gas should have fired off easily for you.


In my area there is only one grade of non-ethanol gas - 90 octane. And I second using Marine Sta-bil in All gasoline All the time.


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## biscut (Oct 18, 2016)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> For fuel the best would be non-ethanol regular (87), then non-ethanol premium (93), then regular with ethanol and lastly premium with ethanol. I use Marine StaBil with all of it.
> Running dry should keep you out of trouble but than I don't understand on a near new machine why you'd have a carb issue ? Seems like the old carb with fresh gas should have fired off easily for you.
> 
> 
> .


I'm confused on the carb issue? My engine has always started within a few pulls. Didn't have a carb issue when new. I mentioned gas just out of curiosity and frustration with the massive, contradictory information out there. There isn't readily available non-ethanol by me. Sounds like a consensus to use marine stabilizer.


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

yup, you'll be just fine but use the STABIL360, should have it at Wal Mart.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@biscut,

I put the recommended rate of Stabil (red) in each 5 gallon cans, which is 2 oz., following with about 2 ounces of SeaFoam into the same 5 gallon can.

I use SeaFoam as well as insurance, and it also aids in keeping the engine fuel areas clean.

Call it overkill, but I have always been doing it, and after all these years, I have never had any issues .. never drain or run out any machines ... everything fires right up immediately ... I do run all my equipment throughout the year, even in off seasons, as it is not good to let any gas machine, or any machine, sit idle, not being used. Machines are meant to run and being used.


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## biscut (Oct 18, 2016)

I agree; machines are meant to be run. Most instances I'd take a 5 year old car with 75-100 ok of grandma's 10 year old 50k car that only went to the market a few miles down the road. In the past I used Seafoam in my gas but stopped a few years ago.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

oneacer said:


> @biscut,
> 
> I put the recommended rate of Stabil (red) in each 5 gallon cans, which is 2 oz., following with about 2 ounces of SeaFoam into the same 5 gallon can.
> 
> ...


Preference is Marine or 360 (greenish blue). Red is more of a stabilizer rather than a cleaner or treatment for ethanol. No need to use Stabil red if you are treating the fuel with Sea Foam.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Been doing it that way all my life, .... think I'll stick with it since I never had an issue in any of my machines.


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## WIHD (Dec 15, 2019)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> For fuel the best would be non-ethanol regular (87), then non-ethanol premium (93), then regular with ethanol and lastly premium with ethanol. I use Marine StaBil with all of it.


non-eth 87 before 93? b/c machine doesn't require 93? or is there another reason? (strictly non-ethanol fuel)


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

In the real world on a snowblower I'm not sure you'd notice but the lower the octane rating the easier the fuel is to ignite. So the lower number should help start your engine easier than using a "premium" grade with a higher octane number. In performance cars that's the reason for requiring premium (the higher octane number). To prevent pre-ignition you use premium as it's more resistant to self ignition from higher compression and heat.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Make sure your fuel is fresh especially if you do not use a stabilizer.


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## WIHD (Dec 15, 2019)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> In the real world on a snowblower I'm not sure you'd notice but the lower the octane rating the easier the fuel is to ignite. So the lower number should help start your engine easier than using a "premium" grade with a higher octane number. In performance cars that's the reason for requiring premium (the higher octane number). To prevent pre-ignition you use premium as it's more resistant to self ignition from higher compression and heat.


lower octane fuel can also cause detonation? not good for an engine


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

WIHD said:


> lower octane fuel can also cause detonation? not good for an engine


Yes detonation is bad. It can be fatal to an engine. 
Are you having pre-ignition (detonation) in your snowblower engine with a CR of around 8.5:1 ?


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