# How do you drill holes for impeller rubber?



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I looked at 4 of my snowblowers that as the warm weather approaches I want to put rubber on the impeller blades, a Murray Craftsman 10/29" with a 12" impeller, a real John Deere 10/32" from 1983 with a 16" impeller, Noma 5/24" with a 12" impeller, a 1986 Ariens 5/22". I love all these for different reasons and don't want to get rid of them. Each has a snow scenario to be used in but also is a backup to the other.

On all of these I have a 1/2" gap except for the Ariens.

How the heck do you get a drill and the drill bit down there to drill holes in the impeller?

If I take the chute off it's still seems to be too far down to drill a hole without a super long drill bit.

I was thinking 3 ways. 1) drill 3 holes in the impeller housing where you can drill a hole through into the impeller blades then put a plug in the holes; 2) buy an extremely long 1/4" drill bit and go through the chute opening; 3) a flexible drill shaft that has a chuck on the end and the other end fits in the drill's chuck9; 4) remove the auger, gear box, and impeller which means separating the machine and pulling off the auger pulley.

The Noma and Craftsman have removable auger housing sides that I can take off and slide the auger off sideways but then I'd be drilling a hole from a severe angle.

I plan to drill 3 holes using a strip of metal on top of the rubber with a large washer and on the metal side an elliptical offset torque nut with no washer. Since there are bracing on the other side of the impeller blade, to avoid these, the holes have to be carefully positioned.

Do you think it's smart to make elongated bolt slots in the rubber so as the rubber wears it can be slid over but is it not necessary because when it wears to close the gap, it's not going to wear anymore and the gap is essentially filled?


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

You need a long drill bit or an extension and you remove the chute to get to the impeller. Don't ovethink this. I believe I drilled two holes for each but maybe 3. Use metal strip on one side and use lock nut to hold them together.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Buy a super long drill bit......jam the auger in place with a screwdriver......


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

I chose to buy myself a 2nd Impeller and doctor it up on a bench, and then replace my existing Impeller when I was adding paddles . . . . I couldn't see myself having the patience to stay engaged in the acrobatics necessary to drill through the chute. I posted my final result here last year or so, having used fibreglas reinforced truck mudflaps.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

I have a Craftsman and drilled easily with a regular size bit. First, remove the spark plug cap. Remove the shaft and turn the impeller until it is positioned properly for you to drill. Place a 2X4 past the augur and under the impeller to stop movement; in my case I put my left foot or knee down to keep pressure on the board as I pressed down on the drill.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

all the ones i have done have been with self tapping metal screws with washers i used a socket and a long drive extension. l used a block of wood to wedge in the impeller to make it stationary


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Chute has to come off . . . then you wedge a board or something to lock the impeller in a position where one of the impeller blades is as close to the chute opening as possible. You may need a slightly longer drill bit, but it should give you sufficient access.

Drill away . . .


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

Some use self tapping screws


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

All of the above replies are excellent advice and I can only suggest one more thing ---- wear some thick gloves when drilling because you will scrape your knuckles on the chute opening after the drill bit pierces the impeller. As they say, ask how I know.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Do you think it's smart to make elongated bolt slots in the rubber so as the rubber wears it can be slid over but is it not necessary because when it wears to close the gap, it's not going to wear anymore and the gap is essentially filled?


I slotted the rubber when I was doing my homemade impeller kit. I figured it was cheap insurance, if the gap increased over time. Plus it made it easy to position the rubber so that it was closely-contacting the impeller housing, before tightening the fasteners. I actually adjusted it so the rubber touched the housing, figuring that the first few minutes of running would probably wear the rubber back, so that it was a nice close fit. 

I used stainless hardware, hex bolts with fender washers above the rubber, and locknuts below the impeller blade. I didn't use metal strips. If I was doing it again, I might use stainless button head cap screws, so that the fastener heads used a smooth, rounded profile, to help the snow slide past them. 

As part of the work I was doing at the time, I removed the auger & impeller assembly, and did the drilling with the impeller out and accessible.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

I have done several machines with conveyor belting as it is extremely durable and wears great. As RedOctobyr suggested I also slotted the belting to get proper fitment & ability to adjust as it wears. Im very detail oriented when it comes to my work, so for that reason I always remove the auger assembly to install the plates and belting. Another reason to remove complete assembly is to replace impeller bearing at the same time. I replace the bearing because when you install anything on the impeller vanes you are changing the balance of something that rotates around 1100 rpm's or so depending on the manufacturer. Also for piece of mind knowing everything has been inspected and ready for use. 

While I have the impeller assembly out i check for bent vanes, easily done in the vice with a good eye and a hammer. 

As for the hardware i use stainless bolts & lock nuts, with a dab of blue loctite. Just didn't feel good about self tapping screws rotating at that speed, and also there is not much thread engagement in the vane. Others have used self tappers without any issues, but im picky. Hope the pictures help with what ive described.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

micah68kj said:


> You need a long drill bit or an extension and you remove the chute to get to the impeller. Don't ovethink this. I believe I drilled two holes for each but maybe 3. Use metal strip on one side and use lock nut to hold them together.


The way to go. I've put them on a quite a few machines . With the exception of Hondas it's the best way. Takes about an hour. Honda remove the impeller is the easiest method I have found.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

RedOctobyr said:


> I slotted the rubber when I was doing my homemade impeller kit. I figured it was cheap insurance, if the gap increased over time. Plus it made it easy to position the rubber so that it was closely-contacting the impeller housing, before tightening the fasteners. I actually adjusted it so the rubber touched the housing, figuring that the first few minutes of running would probably wear the rubber back, so that it was a nice close fit.
> 
> I used stainless hardware, hex bolts with fender washers above the rubber, and locknuts below the impeller blade. I didn't use metal strips. If I was doing it again, I might use stainless button head cap screws, so that the fastener heads used a smooth, rounded profile, to help the snow slide past them.
> 
> As part of the work I was doing at the time, I removed the auger & impeller assembly, and did the drilling with the impeller out and accessible.


question did you ever have to adjust the slotted paddles? i think it wouldnt be necessary to have them. the paddles arent going to get worn down by snow and if they contact the housing they will get worn until they dont contact.

the reason we replace single stage paddles is because they contact the pavement over time. once the initial break in period i wouldnt think there would be any loss in rubber after that unless you use a thin flimsy rubber for the paddle it might bend or warp in one direction.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

To be honest I haven't checked to see if they've worn the rubber back  I will try to remember to take a look at some point. I made the kit 2 seasons ago, the machine cleared the record-breaking snowfall we got in MA in the beginning of 2015. I used the reinforced conveyor belt rubber from Tractor Supply Company. 

But the slots also helped me position them in the first place, for good contact against the impeller housing, so I think the slots are worthwhile just for that.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

> question did you ever have to adjust the slotted paddles? i think it wouldnt be necessary to have them. the paddles arent going to get worn down by snow and if they contact the housing they will get worn until they dont contact.


I'd be amazed to find the paddles wore evenly so that they can be moved and continue to provide coverage. Instead, most wear will actually be tears and cuts from stones, twigs, etc. that get pushed through the machine. Moving the paddles will do nothing in this regard. 

In terms of wear, I think it's primarily a function of the material you use, it's thickness, and (to a lesser extent) how often you use the machine. If you use material that can withstand the action you shouldn't have a wear problem for quite a few years.

In terms of material, look into neoprene rather than SBR. Also, get rubber with a hardness of 70A on the durometer scale - equal to tire tread. Google durometer scale for more information. Beyond that, I use 3/8" thickness, not 1/4".


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Tony P. said:


> In terms of material, look into neoprene rather than SBR. Also, get rubber with a hardness of 70A on the durometer scale - equal to tire tread. Google durometer scale for more information. Beyond that, I use 3/8" thickness, not 1/4".


Tony where do you source your neoprene?

To the OP: I would invest in a drill bit extension over buying the long 1/4" drill bit. If the drill wears or breaks no big deal just replace it with an other 1/4" std. length drill. You may also find it use full in other applications.

For most impellers you can get by with two holes per blade. Unless you have a really large impeller blade. I would recommend using grade-8, 1/4 inch bolts and nylon locking nuts. They are stronger and more corrosion resistant. If you buy the commercial kit on ebay it comes with 5/16 grade-5 bolts.

Keep in mind the impeller is likely not concentric with the housing. You want to make sure you are not leaving too much of a gap somewhere by identifying the largest gap area. By the same token you don't want to be overlapping too much some where as else. I set mine up to be just touching at the closest point. It has been 3 years and is still holding up and working fine. Never had a clogged chute.


Ditto on the gloves.

Good Luck.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Tony where do you source your neoprene?


I live reasonably close to a Grainger, so:

https://www.grainger.com/product/E-...?breadcrumbCatId=16277&functionCode=P2IDP2PCP

The 2" works quite well for me.

BTW, E James is a well know rubber supplier to look for if you want a different size or other features or if Grainger doesn't work for you.


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## Dave C (Jan 26, 2015)

I used a 12" drill bit extension from the box store. It's for those 1/4" hex driver bits, and there are appropriately sized drill bits with that style of drive. I used the rubber paddles from the guy who sells them on eBay. A couple of small c-clamps to position the rubber, and a center punch to mark the drill location.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

RedOctobyr said:


> To be honest I haven't checked to see if they've worn the rubber back  I will try to remember to take a look at some point. I made the kit 2 seasons ago, the machine cleared the record-breaking snowfall we got in MA in the beginning of 2015. I used the reinforced conveyor belt rubber from Tractor Supply Company.


I just took a look at my rubber pieces. They still look pretty much new to me. As best I can tell, they are still nice and close to the impeller housing, and their edges still look smooth. 

I'm fortunate enough that I'm not usually sucking in debris or foreign objects. But there is always icy stuff, of course. 

Depending on how you cut your rubber pieces, and how you make the holes/slots, you might have the option to flip them around if they started to wear, so you could use the other side.


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