# Late 90s Murry 5hp tecumseh starts then dies



## Old murray (Oct 22, 2013)

Last winter my murray began to die after 10-30 seconds. I suspected the carb. Pulled the carb, soaked, cleaned, and reinstalled. No luck. I know how finicky carbs can be so ordered a new one. Plastic elbow to gas line was also cracked and leaking gas, the new carb replaced the elbow as well. New carb is on and same problem. Fresh ethanol free gas is in it. Spark plug is clean. It will start, and progressively run longer and longer the warmer it gets. Takes 10-15 starts to get where it will continue to run. Spits and sputters with moderate backfires until it gets warm. I did notice very small droplets of gas spitting from the air intake when running. I am wondering what else I should be looking at? Ignition, vapor lock, the vent on the gas cap?

Thanks all.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The test for the gas cap is easy. You just loosen or remove the gas cap and start it.

With it being a 5HP from the 90s I would suspect you might have to adjust the valves on it. Those engines seem to be problematic.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Shryp said:


> The test for the gas cap is easy. You just loosen or remove the gas cap and start it.
> 
> With it being a 5HP from the 90s I would suspect you might have to adjust the valves on it. Those engines seem to be problematic.


You may also need a valve replacement or at least valve lapping may be needed. I replaced my Tecumseh 5hp from 1996 because it would often seem to go out of tune when running and would bog out and occasionally stall under load when blowing. The mechanic I spoke to said that the valves are most likely full carbon deposits and possibly pitted. 
In addition I would check the spark when it is running poorly or stalling to see if the ignition is working properly. In rare instances the coil can go bad and it will only act up when the engine has reached full operating temperature.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

The exhaust valves on these engines seem to be problematic in that they start to wear at the seat causing the valve to seat deeper in the block. What this does is reduce the valve lash between the lifter and the valve stem. Remove the breather and check the valve clearance with the engine at TDC. I think .008 to .012 is the correct clearance for this engine but check the specs. If the lash is less than the spec you will need to remove the valve and grind the stem down a bit and then reinstall and re-check. you do not have to put the spring back in to check the lash. 

I have had to do this to at least 2 of these engines. When you have the valves out it won't hurt to lap them as well.


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## Old murray (Oct 22, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. I will keep moving forward based on your suggestions. I should have also noted that 3-4 times while running and testing I had oil shoot out the front 2" breather hose. How would that tie in to the problem?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Old murray said:


> Thanks for the replies. I will keep moving forward based on your suggestions. I should have also noted that 3-4 times while running and testing I had oil shoot out the front 2" breather hose. How would that tie in to the problem?


Was the engine tipped during any of your cleanings? Also too much oil could cause it.


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## Old murray (Oct 22, 2013)

No tipping. Oil was and currently is still within the hash marks.


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## Old murray (Oct 22, 2013)

Removed gas cap, still dies. I need to try an inline spark tester, then I'm on to the valves.


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