# New guy Ariens st824 question???



## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

This is my first awesome snow blower. This machine is a beast. I bought it this summer for $200, garage kept, well maintained, taken care off, very little rust, good gear box, runs great. 27 years old. But still amazing.

I've tuned it up, replaced fuel lines and one belt which might have lasted another 10 years but replaced it anyway since it had bad cracks!. 

I used it for the first time tonight. 4 inches of snow.

Ran perfect, just perfect.

Two questions
#1 The muffler box on this thing gets red hot during use. I can see it red hot glowing. Is this normal?

#2 When I shut off the snow blower the engine will have 3 or 4 backfires coming out of the muffler. Is this a concern and how do I fix that or is that not an issue?

#3 How long will this thing last. It's in great shape and I am happy with it. 

It really is a beast and I can't wait for 12 to 15 inches of snow. 

Thanks

Rob


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Welcome
#1- you are running too lean, back the mix screw out 1/4 turn to start, but this is just a temp fix, until you get a tach of some sort to determine the actual RPM. 

#2- is another symptom of #1, and that the valves are getting hot and not completely sealing off. This could also mean the the governor screw is not set correctly, and why a tach would help. 

If you get the carb set, plan on including it into your will.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

Can I buy a tach for a snow blower?

I will do those things and try to get it done. So not enough gas causes the redhot issue?


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

What RPM should I be at?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

2monsters said:


> Can I buy a tach for a snow blower?
> 
> I will do those things and try to get it done. So not enough gas causes the redhot issue?


You can buy a lazer tach at Amazon or if you have an Iphone you can download a free app called strobe tachometer, it is not enough gas in proportion with the air namely a lean setting just follow what db9938 says to enrich your mixture a bit and report back to him. Good Luck


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

2monsters said:


> What RPM should I be at?


Max of 3600rpm. You never want to run a Tecumseh Snowking at greater than stock 3600rpm. The 8 to 11hp engines are notorious for blowing connecting rods.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

db9938 said:


> Welcome
> #1- you are running too lean, back the mix screw out 1/4 turn to start, but this is just a temp fix, until you get a tach of some sort to determine the actual RPM.
> 
> #2- is another symptom of #1, and that the valves are getting hot and not completely sealing off. This could also mean the the governor screw is not set correctly, and why a tach would help.
> ...


 Why into his will there BROTHER DB.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

ALOHA from the frozen TUNDRA..


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

I think I might have one in the garage for reading tach. LEt me check. This is my project this morning.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

So I have a laser photo tachometer. I bought this when I was tuning up the old vw bug which we got rid off during the divorce. The divorce was the smartest thing I have ever done. 

SO let me figure out how to use this thing.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The rpm won't have much affect on the muffler glowing and backfiring though you do want to get it around 3600 so you don't blow the engine.

For running lean you might need to clean the carb or just adjust it.

Those flathead Tecumseh's are known to need the valves adjusted and possibly lapped. If the valve is hanging open just a bit you will end up with flames from the combustion shooting past and out the muffler. You will also end up with some unburnt gas getting out too. Those will cause you backfiring.

There was just a recent discussion on the valves:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/snowblower-repairs-maintenance-forum/34122-leaking-valves.html


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

Ok the first thing I am going to do is check the rpms.

Can you show me a picture of the screw I need to back out a bit which will add more fuel?


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

So what do I adjust to fix this issue?

Tell me the first thing to do! Step 1


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)




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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

After watching this video I see that my snow blower is way too high on rpm's and I need to adjust everything, wow.

Ok so I am going to get outside and get working. I will report back soon. 

Thanks

Rob


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

So we went out in the crazy cold. 
Everything is tweeked and running much better. It does not run at such a high rpm anymore. It idles at low correctly and isn't nearly as loud.

It doesn't give the backfire like it did. I still get one backfire at the end but I don't get 4 to 10.

We will test it tonight to see how red hot that exhaust gets.


I do have more issue that I figured out.

I need the bracket that is rectangled in shape and it holds the two bolts on the exhaust from rattling off. Any thoughts?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

2monsters said:


> .
> 
> I need the bracket that is rectangled in shape and it holds the two bolts on the exhaust from rattling off. Any thoughts?


 Hey glad you have it running like a Rolls.

I went to check on the muffler plate on mine (Tecumseh 11hp) and I saw one small bracket holding the muffler to a one hole fastened on the head and a small rectangle piece with two holes for the two bolts, it is on a slant and the edges are bent against to hex bolt heads. If this is the one you can just cut a piece of sheetmetal and make two holes matching the bolts then just bend the edges against the flat part of the hex bolt so it won't loosen anymore. Hope this helps, I can take a photo if you need one, heck I'll post one in a few minutes.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Ok here goes and man is it ever cold in the garage, I took the pic with an Ipod with not the best resolution but you'll get the jist.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

Hmmm. so take a piece of sheet metal? How thick? Doesn't look thick, looks small, how did you cut it?


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

How much would a nicely pressed one cost new?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

It's a Tecumseh part and you could probably look it up but I would just go to a Sheet Metal shop and have them do it for you provided you give them the measurements, should be less than 10 bucks but they might just be not interested. 24 gauge sheet metal would work fine.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

The problem is i dont know how to cut it.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

2monsters said:


> The problem is i dont know how to cut it.


 Tinsnips is a good start: https://www.google.ca/search?q=tins...&ei=M6qtVNimAcX_yQS0sYCICg&sqi=2&ved=0CDQQsAQ


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Though before you cut the piece, measure the bolt holes center to center then with a center punch then drill as size needed and after holes are done cut with tinsnips to size. You just need a 6" X 4" sheet metal piece and that is for you to handle it for the exercise. Good Luck


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

Ok well I can do that. Otherwise its all running well.

So I have a small screw that is stripped and it goes into the engine block. How do I fix that.

Rethread it?

I will post a pic of my blower.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

Pic of my Ariens snow blower


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

2monsters said:


> Ok well I can do that. Otherwise its all running well.
> So I have a small screw that is stripped and it goes into the engine block. How do I fix that.
> Rethread it?
> I will post a pic of my blower.


 You have a nice clean unit, as for the screws you'll have to be more specific as are they screws or bolts, again pics does save many words.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

Hey Powershift93... I think he means it will last a lifetime and he can pass it on after ;-) Have a good evening , Bro' p.s. Send some snow my way, my Powershift 824 is bored !


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

So we went out into the cold after a nap and started the snow blower up.

The muffler still gets red hot but not nearly as bad. It also still backfires when I shut it off. I had about 4 backfires. 

It works just fine but will this hurt anything?

At attached are pics.

Can I live with this or will it explode during use?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)




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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> Why into his will there BROTHER DB.


Well, even if it is a Tec, if it's tuned and treated properly, it should last a good while.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

Ok I watched the video.

Mine is not nearly as bad as that. Mine just gets hot now.

He said in the video I need to take off the head and do something with the valves, seems like a lot of work.

Can I go many years with this issue. I'm only using the snow blow 3 or 4 times a year.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

2Monsters, sorry that I went to bed after your further questions yesterday. The strap to the exhaust bolts, is actually your exhaust bolts retaining strap. You will notice that the corners are bent up to prevent them from rotating out. 

The valve leakage, you might be able to limp it through the season, but it would be advisable to get it fixed when the weather is more forgiving, and when you might not need it within a week. Don't worry, we are here year round and will be more than willing to walk you through it. Albeit, there are some pretty good videos out there if you need to see it, as well.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

I just watched the video on the valve stem clearance. This would be a great summer project for a day.

I don't think I will have trouble this winter. I think I can make it until summer.

Now I just need to know how to remove the valve because it was not shown in the video? 

I already have the feeler gauge


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

They do make a valve spring compressor, I use a couple open ended wrenches, but I've done a couple. If you look at how things are held together, you'll see that it's not as complex as you think. If you rotate the flywheel around, you will notice that spring gets compressed. When this happens, simply insert two wrenches that fit, under the spring, rotate the flywheel back around, so that the spring is being supported on the wrenches. The move the spring towards the slot, and lift it free from the lock. Do not remove the valve yet, use the stem to cage the spring, as you remove the wrenches and trap the spring. To re-insert the spring onto the valve, carefully use one wrench, slide the valve down to cage it, then pry the spring up to insert the second wrench to obtain the height needed. You may need to get it positioned just so, and you may need to pry and push to get the lock onto the valve.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

2monsters said:


> I just watched the video on the valve stem clearance. This would be a great summer project for a day.
> 
> I don't think I will have trouble this winter. I think I can make it until summer.
> 
> ...


You will need a small tool that you can sometimes borrow from a shop called a valve spring compressor. This will allow you to compress the spring so you can remove the valve retainer clip. Here is a Video showing you how to do it. Some time you can just pull the head off the egine and remove the carbon from the exhaust valve with a bronze brush and some carburetor cleaner. If you have a lot of deposits on the valve and the inside valve stem this can sometime stop the exhaust leak by cleaning it up. If not it will not run any worse to clean the carbon up. Torque your head gasket down in 3 sucessive times until torqued properly. 

tecumseh valve retainer removal - YouTube


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

I recall a member here had a neat trick to compress the springs and attached them with zip locks and when the springs are in place in the stems you simply cut the zip locks. The post of this member wasn't too long ago and he is a regular here but I just can't recall his name. I will investigate and try to find him.

It was posted by Grunt and it is very simple and genial:

" I have compressed the valve springs in a vise and used two small nylon ty-raps 180 degrees apart to hold the spring compressed. After inserting on the valve stem, cut the ty-raps and pull them out with pliers. As Stated, use eye protection, just in case."


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

Can I just buy new valves? Drop the new valves into place and bam all done?

What causes the valve not to close? 

I have been watching all kinds of you tube videos and I understand now what all of you are talking about. I don't mind getting new valve stems if they are cheap.

The gap for the valve on the left is .08 and the right one is .12 is that correct. I won't do this until summer but planning ahead. 

So the heat from the explosion is supposed to stay inside the engine and then the valve opens after it has been used up for exit, correct?


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Well, you can but it will not completely solve the problem. The valve seats are the other half, and the lapping compound contains an abrasive that gently abrades the seats to the profile of the two, to match and seal. 

This is not to say that you may not need a new valve, but even if you do, you would still need to lap it into place.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

Can I use a regular drill to do the lapping? Where do I buy lapping compound? IS it expensive?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

New valves will need ground anyway.

Lapping compound and the suction cup can be bought at any auto parts store.

See the videos above.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

OK cool. I can totally do this. 

What happens if the valve stem is too long?


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Nah, this is best done with basic hand tools. 

I looked on napa's site, probably one of the pricer sites. 

NAPA AUTO PARTS

NAPA AUTO PARTS

If you shop around, you can probably find cheaper. And considering that you may do this one more time in your life, I'm not sure you want to spend more than this.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

What do I hook that lapping tool into? Just my drill?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

2monsters said:


> What do I hook that lapping tool into? Just my drill?


 By hand, you just spin it with your hands like starting a fire a la caveman.


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## 2monsters (Jan 7, 2015)

I can totally do this. 

Are new valves expensive?

Cool, too bad it's so cold out or I would do it this weekend.

I love this website.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

2monsters said:


> I can totally do this.
> Are new valves expensive?
> Cool, too bad it's so cold out or I would do it this weekend.
> I love this website.


 Maybe you should check your valve clearance first (.008"-.012").


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Normex said:


> Maybe you should check your valve clearance first (.008"-.012").



+1. 

Get a new head gasket & pull the head.

Clean the yucky carbon with seafoam and a nylon brush.

lap the valves while waiting for the brown truck.


check the valve clearances...you may need to grind away some of the valve stem to get the proper clearance:


coat the head gasket with Permatex copper.


fasten the head and torque the head per service manual (200 inch-lbs in 50"inch-lb increments)

then listen to that Tecumseh on the sweet machine purrrrr!


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

2monsters said:


> I can totally do this.
> 
> Are new valves expensive?
> 
> ...


Bring the block inside. And yes you can do all of this. We will walk you through it all.


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