# Drive issue with 1028



## jpilk99

Hi all. I believe my 1028 is about a 1996. The engine runs very well and the auger drives strong and hurls snow a good distance.

I'm having an issue with the forward & reverse drive however. When I shift into a gear and engage the drive, sometimes it goes right along - other times it does nothing at all. Often times, if I lean into it with my hip and help it ...it will go. Occasionally, after driving right along, it just stops driving. Reverse makes is shudder noticeably. As well, neither the 1st or 2nd "reverse" gears make the machine move quickly at all. (I used to have a similar aged 824 and when I popped that thing in 2nd reverse gear, it hauled butt!).

I see that the drive chain (my term, not sure that's what Toro calls it) has a lot of play in it. Both the primary drive sprocket and the one on the wheel axle look good; no noticeable wear.

If you have any guidance on my "drive" issue, I'd love to hear it. I'm about to start taking off the lower rear red cover of the whole drive assemble box (another term I made up) to see what's what.

Thank you!


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## detdrbuzzard

who makes this 1028


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## Shryp

detdrbuzzard said:


> who makes this 1028


Just a guess here. This is the Toro forum.


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## td5771

If it has one check the friction wheel. normal symptoms of it needing replacement. unless you have a transmission


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## jpilk99

Hah (stupid me). Yes, I assumed since I was in the "Toro forum" that that was implied . It is a Toro PowerShift 1028.

I assume I don't have a transmission (?) since there's no clutching? Just moving that shift lever from neutral over to the left for forward and/or reverse gears . I'll check the friction wheel.

Does anyone have a manual for this beast? The one on the main page of the Toro forum looks like it is quite general (Two stage snowblowers) and not about the PowerShift...

Thanks all!!!!

Jay


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## jpilk99

I'm pretty sure I don't have a friction wheel. Coming off the engine is a "primary drive" (my term) pulley that both the "drive belt" and "auger belt" are driven off of. It's weird, when I took that black plastic cover off to expose these belts/drive pulley that I notice the actual "drive" belt was constantly ..."ON". The "secondary" pulley that the belt drives is constantly spinning - even at idle without the drive actually being engaged. 

I will check the spring the returns the pulley wheel (that is to engage the drive belt) but it seems to work. It does return the pulley wheel, but, maybe not as far as it's supposed to.

Any thoughts/guidance are appreciated. Ultimately, I'm trying to figure out why the overall drive ability is only semi reliable. Sometimes is drives fine, and then it just stops driving. If a give it a shove with my hip, it starts driving again.

Maybe the drive belt is worn...?

Thanks,

Jay


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## jpilk99

No friction wheel. Trying a new belt - hope it works.


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## cdestuck

You would not see the friction disc by taking off the top plastic cover. Flip the machine up on the front of the housing and then remove the metal cover on the bottom. About a one ft sq piece of metal. I think I there you will find a fiction disc.


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## cdestuck

I stand corrected, you do have an actual geared trans. see the link below. So replace the belt and hopefully all will be well. If not, just buy a new trans, only 982 bucks


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## UNDERTAKER

All toro powershifts have a transmission in them. Because of the design a fiction disc would not work. Enter the model number on the toro site you can down load the service manual for free. Check the belt for wear the chain slap is 1/8 to 3/8.let me know if you need more help


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## jpilk99

Thanks!!!! Cdestuck, where is the "link below"? And what do you mean about buying a new trans, "only 982 bucks"?

POWERSHIFT93, I did download the service manual from Toro (pretty cool that they provide that at no cost - not many do). I ruined the old chain by taking a link out of it. Waiting for my new chain hopefully Friday.

One big question: Why does the "drive" pulley spin (from the belt off the engine crankshaft) when the "drive lever" is not squeeze on the left handle of the snowblower? I can't figure that one out. As I have the machine balance on it's snout, (on the auger blades), and the bottom/rear covers off, I can see the transmission and the drive sprocket is turning ...even when it's in Neutral. I just don't get that.

Thoughts?

Thank you very much!!!

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

First off the idler pulleys are what puts the power to the auger or wheels. When the handles are in the up position the belts will move freely around. The reverse drive is done via the bell crank on the top of the trans. In order n.1.2.3.4 if the trans has no chain on that spin the trans pulley and watch the spocket you can see the different ratios turning. I doubt the trans is shot. If you can upload pics or video so i can see better. I will not leave hanging in the wind.


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## UNDERTAKER

You have to spin the pulley and shift the gears by hand


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## jpilk99

Not sure how to upload a video... If I can get them uploaded, here’s what they show (if not, hopefully I can clearly ‘ask’ the question).

I just took two videos of the running snowblower:

1. Of the engine crankshaft (sorry if my terminology is not 100% from the factory) that drives the belts. In this brief video, my goal was to show how the wheel-drive belt, not the auger/impeller belt, is spinning the "pulley" or traction sheave down below ---- while the left handle drive engage lever is NOT being squeezed/pressed down onto the handle. I don't understand why that is. I do (I think) understand that when you squeeze that handle/lever, it engages the idler pulley which presses into the drive belt, tightens it up on the traction sheave and ...makes it drive (if it's in gear). Sorry to beat a dead horse here, but, I'm just trying to be absolutely clear.

2. Second video is while standing behind the running machine with that lower plate removed which exposes the transmission and drive chain area (chain is currently removed). It shows the drive sprocket, on the side of the transmission, spinning – or more like “turning”, without the left handle/lever being squeezed. As well, it’s not in gear. I don’t understand how that drive sprocket is …”driving” while it’s in neutral and doesn’t have that left handle/lever squeezed. Now, it certainly speeds up when the handle is squeezed and I put it into a gear/higher gear.

If anyone can help me understand how this stuff is taking place – I’d be grateful.

Thanks,

Jay


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## jpilk99

- is video 1 and




 - is video 2

I uploaded these to Youtube - hope they come through...


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## UNDERTAKER

Are those toro belts? Or are they from some else auto belts will not work they have to be fractional belts


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## UNDERTAKER

I would yank them belts. And get toro belts right now. that is not the right belt it is to small. when the lever is not engaged that bottom pulley should not turn one bit...


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## UNDERTAKER

Has that transmission been taken out or apart???


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## jpilk99

The "drive" belt is brand new, from Toro, the part number that their website calls for. (It's the same exact part number that was on their before - that I took off, and that belt looked fine; not overly worn or stretched etc.).

I'm not having any issues with the auger belt so I've not mucked with it.

I don't know if the transmission has been out or apart. I bought the machine this summer. I've not taken it out or done anything to it.

For what it's worth, Reverse is poor on this machine. On my other PowerShift 8/24, Reverse 1 would comfortably back up at a slow pace - and Reverse 2 would fly backwards. This one, R1 barely moves it backwards and R2 ain't much better...


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## jpilk99

Also, POWERSHIFT93, the cable for idler pulley for the 'drive' wheels is not too tight so as to be engaging the idler pulley when the handle is not squeezed... Just thought I'd throw that in there.

It's very confusing; to me. What else can you think of ?


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## UNDERTAKER

Me thinks that you will have adjust that cable under the dash you say the reverse sucks. Does it go to the power mode? from that 7 sec vid if it was in neteural why was the belt turning??


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## jpilk99

Not sure what you mean, "will have adjust the cable under the dash you say the reverse sucks". 

"Power mode"? You mean the "PowerShift" process to flip the drive/wheel axle forward or back? Yes, that works.


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## UNDERTAKER

with the motor going and in netural get me another vid at least 1 or 2 minutes. then drop it through the 1,2,3,4 gears without pressing the lever. then do it all over again this time with the lever down. forget about the cable under the dash for now. flip your I phone to the wide angle the other way I can not see that great.


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## UNDERTAKER

forget that stuff I noticed that trans pulley has a lot of drag on it. that should spin nice and easy. It looks like a bad input bearing. take the belt off and spin that pulley you will know if it has drag to it. and see how much play is in it


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## jpilk99

Thanks POWERSHIFT93. I will take the belt off and spin the ...lower pulley, the one the belt is turning/spinng. (Not the auger one). I'll also shoot those videos you mention, just in case. I'll probably wait til I get the new chain (I scuttled the last one), and then reconnect that shift arm so I can move through the gears etc.

Thanks again; very much!!!

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

Are you sure the idler pulley is not touching that belt. Because that belt is the only thing that turns that pulley. That belt should not be turning. Without that pulley touching it. was it in neutral on that 2nd vid at the start. that might be from the vibration. worst case diagnoses. you might become a proud parent to a bouncing baby trans rebuild,


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## UNDERTAKER

i was right the first time. Your transmission is way out of adjustment. When you put the new chain. Loosen up the 4 bolts that keep the tranny in the housing. The manual will tell how to do it. And adjust the shift rod. That will take of the other issues you had. Let me know how it all goes. U will not have to rebuild the tranny. The vibration from the motor causes it to turn in neutral without the chain on. With the chain on the weight cancels out the vibration from the motor above. Mahalo


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## jpilk99

Hah . Wouldn't I love a little "Mahalo" right about now, 7 degree out, but, probably a heat wave compared to you.

I'll have my new chain tomorrow and will install. Do you mean the 4 bolts on the outside of the machine that are used to adjust chain tension? I did see 4 bolts immediately "on top" of the tranny down inside the underneath of the machine where the tranny sits. I can go back and read the manual on that.

Not sure on "adjusting the shift rod". It's a pretty lose connection, meaning there's play in it, obviously not when it's finally connected to the shifter lever on the tranny itself.

But again, it's weird how that idler pulley is not touching the drive belt and that lower pulley is turning like a champ. I'll take another look at it, and video, once I get the chain on and try to adjust that tranny.

Thanks so much POWERSHIFT93


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## UNDERTAKER

those 4 bolts on the housing. The two in the back slide up and down.but all 4 have to be loose. You have to stand it on the bucket to do it. I know my typing sucks. My brain moves faster than my fingers. Undo the bottom bolt on the rod going into the trans. Loosen up the jam nuts. Take it in tight enough so you can put it back together. The chain slap should be 1/8 to 3/8. It tells in the man to. It got down to -25 degrees monday morning. Still waiting on the heating company to get my hot dawg garage heater in.. Let me know how it goes. Mahalo


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## Kestral

This is real good info I am going to check my chain slap this weekend when the temp warms up.


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## jpilk99

POWERMAN,

I finally took better videos (I hope). Check these out:





 




 
The main thing I'm trying to show is that drive belt and the lower pulley that moves along without the handle/lever being held down. I even pull the idler pulley out of the way, as far back as I can, and it barely DOESN'T make the belt engage. I've loosened the cable that controls the idler pulley as much as possible.

Strange strange strange. Even in Neutral, if I lift up the rear of the machine, the wheels start going. Shifting from neutral to 1, 2, 3, 4 --- without the handle depressed --- the wheels spin faster.

It all seems to come down to WHY that drive belt engages/turns the drive pulley without the idler pulley being engaged.

Tis a mystery. Thanks again for any help you can provide.

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

DID YOU ADJUST THE TRANS LIKE I TOLD YOU TO. I ALSO NOTICED IN THAT LAST VID. WHEN YOU PULLED THE IDLER OUT. IT DID WHAT IT WAS SUPPOSE TO. TAKE THE WHOLE IDLER ARM PULLY ASSM OUT IT IS HELD IN BY TWO SIDE BOLTS. IAM WONDERING IF THAT HUB COMING OF THE CRANKSHAFT I THE RIGHT ONE. IT LOOKS DIFFERENT THEN MINE TAKE A VID OF THAT IDLER ARM ASSM. SO I CAN CHECK IT OUT YOUR TRANS DOES WHAT IT IS SUPPOSE TO. IF YOU ADJUSTED THE TRANS. THEN IT HAS TO BE SOMETHING WITH THE OTHER TO THINGS. DON'T WORRY I WILL FIGURE IT OUT. BUT I NEED VIDS TO SEE.BECAUSE YOU ARE A LONG WAY FROM MINNESOTA..


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## UNDERTAKER

You have no idea how many hours are on it? Check the play in those pulleys see if there is slop in them. And see if that pulley assm is tight to the housing before you take it out. And after you take it out there should be two springs on the bottom pulley assm that hold tension. I am online right now. when the belt turns that trans pulley the trans is going to do what it is suppose to do. when you have it on the ground and in neutral. does it want to walk on it own. the last post I left the caps on by accident sorry. never mind about the pulley of the crank.


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## jpilk99

Thanks so much. It's POURING BUCKETS and 57 degrees in lovely Bolton, MA right now ...so I ain't going outside for nuttin!!! .

I did adjust the tranny as noted. But, doesn't that really only take slop out of the chain? Does it actually do anything related to ...drive operation?

No idea on hours. It's a '97 and it sure don't look new.

I'm followin' ya, that either that bigass pulley down below, that the belt drives to then drive the tranny, may be sloppy/loose. I assume there's a bearing/bushing in there? 

The idler arm pulley, (I already had it out), had maybe a 1/2" play away from the wall. The springs are there. Can't comment on size, but, will look at the parts manual again and see if I can notice anything.

Stay tuned. Thanks again!!!

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

THERE HAS TO BE 1/8 TO 3/8 SLOP IN THE CHAIN. SO IT DOES PLAY A FACTOR IN IT. IF IT IS 57 AND RAINING YOU ARE IN PARADISE WE MIGHT HIT 30 HERE TODAY.BUT NO SNOW IN THE FORCAST. IF IT IS THAT WARM. THEN TAKE THE TRANS OUT. IT COULD BE A BEARING THAT IS BAD. BUT LIKE I SAID I WILL NEED VIDS. I LEFT THE CAP LIGHT ON AGAIN SORRY I WILL KEEP MY FRAGILE LITTLE MIND ON IT. KEEP ME IN THE KNOW.. THERE IS THE IMPUT BEARING FOR THAT PULLEY ON THE TRANS. AND IN OUTPUT BEARING ON IT TO. DID YOU DOWNLOAD THE PARTS SECTION TOO IT HAS AN EXPLODED VIEW OF THE TRANS AND EVERY THING ELSE ON ABOUT THAT MOCHINE. MAHALO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## jpilk99

MAHALO-Man in Minny!

More vids:

Idler pulley. It looks identical to the auger idler pulley, same size. It returns to flush up against the wall - away from the belt - when no tension from cable/lever: 



 
Closer inspection of idler pulleys and drive pulley - NO slop in that, it's snug: 



 
Detailed look at the chasiss wall that the idler pulley assembly bolts to, nice and straight (wondered if it was bent IN and allowed idler to be closer to belts): 



 
Going back over one of your posts, you wondered if the HUB coming off the crankshaft is correct? I don't know. I'll look for part numbers or something and will take a close up picture of it...

Thanks againnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn.

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

NO THAT IS THE RIGHT HUB OFF THE CRANK. THE IDLER SETUP LOOKS FINE. WHEN U PLAYED WITH THAT PULLEY FOR THE TRANS. WAS THERE DRAG OR END PLAY OR ANY STRANGE MOVEMENT IN IT???? BECAUSE NOW WE WILL HAVE TO START LOOKING INTO THE TRANS. THE EASY STUFF HAS BEEN CHECKED OUT I HOPE THERE IS NOT SNOW COMING YOUR WAY. YOU ARE GOING TO BE THE PROUD PARENT OF ONE BOUNCING BABY TRANNY REMOVAL LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FINE PLAYING WITH THE TRANNY I KIND OF LIKE THESE FACE THINGS. MAHALO!!!


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## jpilk99

Power.

I would say "no, there was no drag or end play". The pulley felt snug/tight on the shaft and - I ain't no expert - I would say it was ...performing normally. I actually just went back out, balance the machine up on its snout/augers, and spun the drive pulley. While it neutral is spun freely. When I shifted into gears, it turned the drive sprocket out of the trans, and the wheels "drove". Normal operation when I shifted to higher gears. Things felt smooth.

My big question is: The big issue I thought I was chasing was - why, when the machine is running - does the drive belt get engaged and spin the drive pulley? This, to me, is independent of anything that the transmission might be doing. Right?

And, the whole reason I got this Thread going was: Why, when in normal operation trying to blow-snow, with machine running, in gear, moving along and things going fine, the machine would just stop "driving". If I shoved it with my waist, it seemed to 'wake up' and then start driving again. Reverse acted very abnormally; very jumpy trying to back up and it didn't seem to matter whether I was in Reverse1 or Reverse2.

Thanks Mahalo.

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

When the belt is not engaged. In theory that pulley should not spin for saftey issues in neutral it really does not matter. Say if you left the machine running and steped away from it. And a kid came along and moved the lever in gear with out the handle down nothing would move. They would have to press the lever down to make it go. As for the drive issue. There could be some thing worn or out of sync in the trans. I did ask if when it is on the ground and it gear with out the handle down does the machine move on it's own????? When you have to bump it to wake it up.thats why i asked if the shift lever was adjusted right. There are detents in the trans to keep it in the chosen gear. And you have it on the bucket the trans is at zero gravity. But when on the ground. Threre is now pressure from gravity on those detents and the shifter fork in side. The reverse is done via the bellcrank on the top of the trans.using another fork to move those gears. I don't quite get term jumpy when in reverse. Is the machine making a noise??? Or is it bouncing up and down?? All the simple stuff has been ruled out. There is a bolt that holds that shifter plate to the trans. Look up in there and see if that loose or cracked. have you gone through under the dash. to see if something is binding up???? the reverse is not meant to stay in it's slot. that is a safety feature. under the dash there are two cables. the one closest to metal down plate check to see if that is loose it tells in the toro book how to adjust those I can not remember off the top of my head how that goes. I will stay tuned.........mahalo


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## UNDERTAKER

THAT SURE IS A NICE BOAT YOU GOT THERE. WHEN WE FIGURE THIS OUT.BETTER GET RID OF THAT RUST ON THE HOUSING AND LAY DOWN SOME NEW PAINT.


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## jpilk99

I have a few additional videos, along with related question/confirmation:

1. Showing again the drive belt and drive pulley spinning away while in Neutral and the drive lever NOT depressed. The pulley spun less when I yanked on the idler pulley and brought it a 1/2" away from the belt. Also, it doesn't creep when I put it in gear, but, when I lift the rear off the ground, those wheels start spinning a good clip. Not sure if it's that zero gravity thing you mentioned. 



 
2. Just showing the transmission and I move through gears, feels like those detents are ...crisp. Takes a good push/pull to move it from one gear to the next. Not too much force, but, enough to make me confident it's staying right in the gear it's supposed to be in: 



 
Thanks again,

Jay


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## jpilk99

Hah. "Nice boat". Yeah, I know I need to address the rust and paint her up. It's weird how my engine seems to run great and it's the "drive" or tranny. In years past, when I had the 8/24 PowerShift, it was the opposite.

Thanks again!!


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## UNDERTAKER

put new idler pulleys and bolts on it. then adjust everything and we will see what happens next. the two idler pulleys are around 40 dollars. and bolts a couple of bucks. mahalo


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## UNDERTAKER

Get new bottom springs to. Did you replace the cables????


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## jpilk99

Ah-hah. I thought I was "good" with the pulleys/springs/cables. What's making you think it's them? I thought we were mooooooooooooooving to the tranny .

I'll start digging up part numbers and getting an order ready.


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## UNDERTAKER

I REMEMBER SEEING IN THE EARLY VIDS THAT WHEN YOU PULLED IT BACK. IT QUIT SPINNING. I AM TRYING TO SAVE THE WORST CASE FOR LAST NOW. IT IS CHEAPER TO REPLACE THE EASY STUFF FIRST. PLUS I DID NOT KNOW HOW MUCH MONEY TO PUT IN IT. THEY ARE GREAT MACHINES. BUT TO KEEP THEM GREAT THEY NEED TO BE MANTAINED TO THE TEE. SO YEAH GET PULLEYS. SPRINGS AND CABLES.I HAD TO SPEND 700 BUCKS IN PARTS ALONE TO GET MINE BACK TO BRAND NEW CONDITION. MY PUTZ BROTHER AND MY DAD NEVER DID ANYTHING TO IT. THAT I BENT THE IMPELLER ON A ROCK. AND TOOK IT OF BALANCE. AND YOU CAN NOT BEND THEM BACK. THE IMPELLER ALONE WAS 150 DOLLARS. I KNOW A LOT OF PEOPLE THAT JUST WANT A QUICK FIX TO THINGS. I DON'T DO THAT. I LIKE TO KNOW EVERY THING ABOUT THE MACHINE. IF POSSIBLE. I NEVER DID GET THIS TYPING DOWN, I ALWAYS HAVE SOMEONE DO IT FOR ME. THAT IS WHY I WANT TO HAVE SOMEONE WORK THE CAMERA. SO U CAN SHOW THAT BACKING UP JERKING THING YOU TALKED ABOUT. BUT FOR NOW I WANT TO FINISH THIS ISSUE. PLUS WE FINALLY GOT SNOW HERE I CAN CHECK SOME THING WITH MINE. IN THAT VID MAKE SURE IT IS AT LEAST A MINUTE LONG. 20-30 SECONDS WITH MY INTERNET SERVICE DOES NOT WORK TO GOOD. BUT I ALSO NEED YOU TO MAKE SURE EVERY THING IS ADJUSTED RIGHT. THEY CAN BE TEMPERMENTAL AFTER 20 YEARS OF WORK OR JUST ABUSED FROM LACK OF MAINTANCE. WHEN YOU GOT IT DID THEY TELL YOU ANYTHING ABOUT IT. OR WERE THEY JUST HAPPY TO GET RID OF IT. IF IT IS SOME THING TO WITH THE TRANS. THAT WILL BE A WHOLE OTHER THREAD. THIS TECHNOLOGY IS GREAT. BUT DEALING WITH IN THE PHYSICAL SENSE WOULD BE A WHOLE LOT FASTER AND EASYER. BUT WE WILL MAKE DO WITH THIS IT MIGHT TAKE LONGER THAN I THOUGHT. BUT WE WILL GITTER DONE!!!!!!!!!! KEEP ME IN THE LOOP. MAHALO!!!!!


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## Kestral

Just wondering how much does a new trans cost for a Toro Powershift?


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## UNDERTAKER

I would guess around 500-600. but don't quote me on it. never look into one


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## jpilk99

POWER. Sounds good. I will get the idler pulleys, new springs, cables (both auger and drive)? Does that sound right?

Just curious: Why idler pulleys - what tends to wear out? Obviously for the cost, new ones aren't a big investment. I think I may be a little OCD in terms of, "hey, if it works, or you can make it work - as its intentioned - then no need to go buy new"... Or somethin' like that. But, I'll price out the parts and give it a shot. I'm currently in a tropical downpour that stretches from Maine down to Florida - me sittin' right here in Massatuckey!


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## jpilk99

Oh, you asked a couple other questions: I bought the machine this Fall for about $250. I think I got it so low mainly because the engine barely maintained an idle. So, after a good cleaning and reassembly of the carb, she runs strong/even (no surging). However, with this newly discovered "drive" issue - that I didn't know about til I used it in my first snow a month ago sheds even more light on the low price. (I think it's low compared to other 10/28s I saw going for closer to $600).

The person I got it from said they'd just bought it from someone else so they couldn't comment on its history.

I just priced out the parts: $40/ea for cables, $19/ea for pulleys and $5/ea springs. I'd love all new stuff, but, if the cables do the job they're supposed to, (they're not rubbing inside their housings and they actuate the pulley), why replace ... for about $90. If the pulleys spin free and easy, and they're not wobbling from blownout bearings or whatever allows them to spin, I'm still perplexed on why replace them. Springs I can absolutely see as the "drive" idler pulley didn't seem to go 100% back into place. POWERSHIFT, I ain't arguing with you or questioning your personal approach. I frankly would love to buy all new gear. I just don't have, easily, the $100 sitting around for parts that seem to be working. I could be all wet on this - and if you don't want to keep helping, I'll understand.

I will have my son help take more video once the rain stops. It seem to be running a bit better already, just from the ...cleaning/adjusting/etc. that I've done. I actually have to adjust the shifting rod as the little bolt that holds the "elbow" of the linkage down at the tranny arm that does the shifting seems too loose and gives the whole shifting arm, to me, too much play.

We'll see where things are after that. Thank you so much!!!

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

I told you I will not leave you hanging in the wind. cables wear they get stretched out. the bushing in those pulleys wear out from twisting and turning every thing has a life span just like us. my favorite quote is from the rocking of the cradle, to the rolling of the hearse. the springs the metal degrades over time. I figured out that twerking, jerking issues with the reverse. that cable that goes in to the trans needs to be adjusted it is the one next to the metal under the dash. the manual tells how it should be. I had the same thing with mine. after I put the new cable in. as for the kick start you have to do. check the axle with the wheels off. on its bucket. make sure the gas is out of the tank. you do not want a haz mat problem. see how much play and end play is in the axle give me a full minute or two vid of the undercarriage. mahalo!!!!!!!!!!!!! TODD


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## UNDERTAKER

JUST GET THE DRIVE CABLE. THAT THE MAIN CONCERN THE AUGER WORKS LEAVE THAT FOR ANOTHER DAY AND TIME. ALL OF THE SNOW HERE IS THAT TREE HUGGING ASPEN SNOW POWDER. THAT IS 7LBS PER CUBIC FOOT. I NEED THE 15LB PER CUBIC FT STUFF TO GIVE THE MASTERPIECE A REAL WORKOUT. KEEP ME IN THE LOOP. MAHALO!!!!!!!!


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## jpilk99

Hah. Great stuff. I agree and thanks. Will be back on the video scene soon. IN THE MUD!


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## UNDERTAKER

Also get chain lube it comes in a spray can. U don't need to get the designer stuff. The cheap stuff works just as good. And a tub of black grease. I trust you have 320-400 grit sand paper laying around???????????? That chain will need to be lubed from time to time. Other parts will need to be greased to. Mahalo


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## jpilk99

Yeahhhhhh, I got that stuff. what am I using the sandpaper on? the chain?

Just need some SNOW now


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## UNDERTAKER

Do not use sand paper on the chain.the sand paper is used to clean metal shafts. And other things that might need attention. Soak that chain with lube.


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## UNDERTAKER

YEAHHHHHHHHHH I GUESS I WILL HAVE TO LOOK INTO THAT DRAGON WARE STUFF...


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## jpilk99

PowerMan. So, after all my "tuning up", new belt, etc. I took that achine out and ...it's basically still doing what it did before. Transmission/drive just stops. If I shove it with my hip, it gets back going. If I lift the rear off the ground, get the wheels in the air, they spin, I put it back down, it drives.

I think the tranny is mucked. Shifting from one gear to the next it seems jump when put in gear. sometimes it starts creeping forward a little...

Doesn't all this point to a falty transmission?

Oh, I have 2+ feet of snow... When it's running, it throws the snow like a sonofagun. Just hard to keep it driving along.

Thoughts?

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

SUIT up my friend it is time to become the proud parent of one bouncing baby trans removal. I saw a used one on ebay the other day. if you want ship that one to me. I will do the post mortem on it. then overhaul it. if u want to go that route. otherwise a brand new trans is 1000.00 let me know what u want to do. MAHALO 4 getting back to me. I was wondering how it was going out there in mud tucky...


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## jpilk99

Thanks Golden Gopher. I think I'll limp through the rest of the winter and then try to rebuilt that tranny in the summah. Another storm coming Tuesday. Atleast my snowmobile likes it.

You take care!!!!


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## UNDERTAKER

you take care there my friend. I am so over this winter. waiting to get my farm going again. let me know if u need anything. MAHALO!!!!!!!


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## jpilk99

PowerGopher. Would you believe it: Engine blew during last storm. Snow was flyin' 30', I was makin' due with the cranky tranny, when all of a sudden, it started making a strange noise, like the belts were rubbing on something (****, I dunno). Couldn't figure it out, it was racing too. I tried engaging auger and drive to put a load on the engine and bring idle down. Can't remember if I actually tried the idle lever (don't ask me why). So, I figured something was stuck, so I picked up the rear of the machine a few inches and dropped it down. *(+^^$%[email protected]^&*&()*( and saw a shoot of black stuff, don't know if it was soot, or belt fragment... All done.

Now when I pull to start it it just spins free and easy. Haven't dug in to find out exactly what went wrong: Block, connecting rod, rings... I'll use the tractor for the rest of the winter and then go looking for a new, or close to new, machine in the summer. No more late 90's projects. I came off a PowerShift 8/24 that was finicky. Thinking of a 1032 Deere of similar size Husqvarna.

Thoughts? Good luck - hope all's well,

Jay


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## Kestral

I'm guessing if it's a Tecumseh it prob through a rod? Did the 1028 come with a Tecumseh or a Briggs & Straton like on my 1995 Toro Powershift 1132?


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## jpilk99

I'm pretty sure it's the SnowKing


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## UNDERTAKER

jpilk99 said:


> PowerGopher. Would you believe it: Engine blew during last storm. Snow was flyin' 30', I was makin' due with the cranky tranny, when all of a sudden, it started making a strange noise, like the belts were rubbing on something (****, I dunno). Couldn't figure it out, it was racing too. I tried engaging auger and drive to put a load on the engine and bring idle down. Can't remember if I actually tried the idle lever (don't ask me why). So, I figured something was stuck, so I picked up the rear of the machine a few inches and dropped it down. *(+^^$%[email protected]^&*&()*( and saw a shoot of black stuff, don't know if it was soot, or belt fragment... All done.
> 
> Now when I pull to start it it just spins free and easy. Haven't dug in to find out exactly what went wrong: Block, connecting rod, rings... I'll use the tractor for the rest of the winter and then go looking for a new, or close to new, machine in the summer. No more late 90's projects. I came off a PowerShift 8/24 that was finicky. Thinking of a 1032 Deere of similar size Husqvarna.
> 
> Thoughts? Good luck - hope all's well,
> 
> Jay


the govener most likely let go. I never was a fan of those tecumsapart engines. you can still fine a new old stock briggs engine. the change over is a piece of cake. for the love of those powershifts do not get rid of it!!!!! the trans can be redone. just remember you got it used. the rest of the machine is still viable. yeah here we go from 45+ to the sub zero frozen tunda in a matter of minutes. we got 10 inchs the other day half of it was water/ice what a mess. let me know how I can be of futher service!! I got a few places for engines...MAHALO!!!!


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## Kestral

I'm with POWERSHIFT93 I say re-power that unit and put a Briggs on it this time I can't believe how many Tecumseh Snow King's I have read about in past year that have taken a dump! Frankly I'm not impressed by the Snow King I would take a B&S any day.


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## jpilk99

Hi folks,

Well, I tore apart the machine today and the block is trashed; cracked. The lower end of the connecting rod came lose of the crank and made a big ol' mess inside there.

I hate to say but I believe this machine is beyond what I feel is reasonable to revive. PowerMan, as you said from the pictures, there's some rust coming through that will need to be addressed. That will take a bit of efforts. I believe the trans is not healthy... and obviously I need a motor. For all of that expense and time, only to have a refurbished '97 machine... I am thinking of waiting til' summer and dropping $500-$800 on a virtually new Deere or Husqvarna. I'm likely going to sell off the parts from this machine to fund that effort.

Any "last rights" you'd like to expound? (I think you already have). Who knows, if I could get another motor that I KNEW was healthy, and short money on a trans... Maybe. One never knows.

Thanks again for ALL the help.

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

I am throwing this as a idea for the amount of money you would spend on those machines. you could still fix that one up. it is your choice I know. did u get that pm I sent???? the paint job is just sand paper, primer and toro red paint. anyways let me know put it in the corner for now. ride the rest of this BLOODY STINKING WINTER OUT!!!! go back at it in the spring.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Ok , , , it's warming up so are you thinking of re-power project or sending it on it's way with craigslist as a fixer upper or parts ??

Update 15 May: It was parted out .


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## [email protected]

I have a 94 1028 toro power shift that all of a sudden while using no forward gears but has both reverse gears, after sitting ina heated garage the forward gears come back. If you go from reverse 
to forward gear there is a grinding noise and then clunks into gear. Transmission problems? Confusing cause works fine for maybe 20 minutes then problem reoccurs. Any suggestions


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## SnoThro

The component that usually fails is the shift collar. It fails from either improperly adjusted cables or, more commonly, the spring on top of the transmission that holds it in place rusts away from age and lets it grind down. Its the piece that engages bosses on the forward or reverse gears. Only costs about $20 but expect to need another component or two and some grease (Mag-1) and an afternoon.


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