# 421 Frame Crack...is this a big deal?



## LakeWobegonMN (Oct 24, 2020)

Just noticed this today.

Big deal? Should I get it welded? I never noticed it before but maybe I wasn't looking close. I did recently make the auger belt much tighter but I can't imagine that puts so much torque on the frame that it began to crack.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

Well, look at it this way. Mechanical things do not heal themselves, and when you let things go they do NOT get better. How for this crack? I don't know what stress there is on the frame, but assuming there is none, it will start to rust. If there is stress then it will continue to spread (and rust). I would weld it, but you can drill a hole at the end of the crack and that will prevent it from spreading. Your choice.


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## Hec In Omaha (Jan 10, 2021)

LakeWobegonMN said:


> View attachment 174944
> 
> 
> Just noticed this today.
> ...


Over tightening the auger belt could of caused this. I just adjusted the levers on my 421 today and at one point, during the adjusting, I had the auger lever too tight. I couldn’t even squeeze it enough to make contact with the handle bar. While squeezing the auger lever I noticed the chassis twisting right where yours cracked. I backed off the tension till I achieved the recommended 6-1/2” clearance from the tip of the lever to the middle of the handle bar. All is good now. 
Go out and squeeze your auger lever and see if you chassis twists as a result of it. I would definitely weld it up!

Hec


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

If you can not weld it then.......As suggested drill a hole at the end of the crack. It will reduce the stress and prevent it from propagating. Get a right angle support bracket from any hardware strore and put it over the cracked area to supported better. Four 1/4" bolts (or M6) and you will be fine.


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## LakeWobegonMN (Oct 24, 2020)

Hec In Omaha said:


> Over tightening the auger belt could of caused this. I just adjusted the levers on my 421 today and at one point, during the adjusting, I had the auger lever too tight. I couldn’t even squeeze it enough to make contact with the handle bar. While squeezing the auger lever I noticed the chassis twisting right where yours cracked. I backed off the tension till I achieved the recommended 6-1/2” clearance from the tip of the lever to the middle of the handle bar. All is good now.
> Go out and squeeze your auger lever and see if you chassis twists as a result of it. I would definitely weld it up!
> 
> Hec


I definitely see that area flexing a bit when I squeeze the auger handle.

The handle sits about 8 inches from the center of the grip. But there is play before it actually starts pulling the rod. If I engage to where it actually starts pulling the rod, it's about 6 and 1/2 inches from the center of the handle. It's not crazy hard to squeeze. Maybe just years of fatigue.

I'm going to see if someone can weld it.

If not, the angle iron approach should work.

Thanks everyone.

Also - does anyone's 421 like to vibrate bolts and screws off it? I lost 2 screws that hold the carb heater box on, and the nut that holds the bolt for the drive lever handle. I need to replace those...and some threadlock!


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

The screws that attach the carb box to the carb bracket (horizontal face) fall off pretty easy, I make sure to use lock washers, the kind that dig into the paint on the bracket.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Star locks are more effective than split lock washers. But you need to replace the star style more often as with multiple cycles of on/off they loose their bite. A flat washer then a lock over it can help too. It reduces deflection. Make sure your replacement screws are catching as much thread in the hole as you can. 2 diameters is the rule of thumb but I like to go more if I can in high vibration situations.


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## Hec In Omaha (Jan 10, 2021)

LakeWobegonMN said:


> I definitely see that area flexing a bit when I squeeze the auger handle.
> 
> The handle sits about 8 inches from the center of the grip. But there is play before it actually starts pulling the rod. If I engage to where it actually starts pulling the rod, it's about 6 and 1/2 inches from the center of the handle. It's not crazy hard to squeeze. Maybe just years of fatigue.


I have my levers adjusted with measurements taken in the hanging position. The operators manual does not specify that the measurements are to be taken while squeezing the lever to take up slack. Traction lever is set at 7-1/2” and auger lever is set to 6-1/2”. Measurements are from the tip of the lever to center of the end of the handlebar. I have new belts and everything engages fine with those settings. 

Hec


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## LakeWobegonMN (Oct 24, 2020)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Star locks are more effective than split lock washers. But you need to replace the star style more often as with multiple cycles of on/off they loose their bite. A flat washer then a lock over it can help too. It reduces deflection. Make sure your replacement screws are catching as much thread in the hole as you can. 2 diameters is the rule of thumb but I like to go more if I can in high vibration situations.


Thanks! I ended up getting 3/4" screws..way longer than needed. But, should give me plenty of notice if they start backing out before I lose one...if the rattling cover doesn't give it away. I had split washes on hand...used those...and some blue threadlocker. Hopefully the heat generated there doesn't negate the threadlocker useless. If these back out I'll upgrade the washers to what you suggested.


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## LakeWobegonMN (Oct 24, 2020)

Hec In Omaha said:


> I have my levers adjusted with measurements taken in the hanging position. The operators manual does not specify that the measurements are to be taken while squeezing the lever to take up slack. Traction lever is set at 7-1/2” and auger lever is set to 6-1/2”. Measurements are from the tip of the lever to center of the end of the handlebar. I have new belts and everything engages fine with those settings.
> 
> Hec


Thanks, I'm going to readjust it to what you and the manual suggest.

Local shop I know said $50 or so to weld the frame. I'll take them up on that...I like learning new things but don't have the time to learn to weld right now.

Hopefully she's good to go after that! Storm coming tomorrow...maybe should drill the end of the crack as I can't get to the shop until next week for the weld.


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## LakeWobegonMN (Oct 24, 2020)

I gotta say, very impressed with this machine.

Performed like a champ today. Was going to drill.a hole beyond the crack, but didn't wanna mess it up. She's getting welded this weekend and I'll.let them do it. I marked the crack and it didn't spread under use today. I loosened the belt and she wouldn't throw snow. The 6 1/2" setting maybe is for a fresh belt?

Anyway, she threw further than the new 8 hp Crapsman nextdoor. The Crapsman audibly labored often. The little 4 hp Tecumseh on mine just purred the same regardless of load. Not bad at all. Certainly meets my needs.


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## Hec In Omaha (Jan 10, 2021)

I had a similar experience with my 421 today. My neighbor across the street has a 26” 9 hp craftsman and it couldn’t throw the snow as good as my little Toro 421. I was launching snow over 40 feet today! This chassis is excellent! Glad your getting that crack welded up! She’ll be good for another 40 years!

Hec


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## LakeWobegonMN (Oct 24, 2020)

Hec In Omaha said:


> I had a similar experience with my 421 today. My neighbor across the street has a 26” 9 hp craftsman and it couldn’t throw the snow as good as my little Toro 421. I was launching snow over 40 feet today! This chassis is excellent! Glad your getting that crack welded up! She’ll be good for another 40 years!
> 
> Hec


Wow! 

Did you have a connection with the powder coating of your machine? Curious what that would cost. If this machine continues to perform well, maybe I'll do something similar!


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## Hec In Omaha (Jan 10, 2021)

LakeWobegonMN said:


> Wow!
> 
> Did you have a connection with the powder coating of your machine? Curious what that would cost. If this machine continues to perform well, maybe I'll do something similar!


Yes I had a connection for powder coating. I only had the augers powder coated gloss black $20. I’d say anyone off the street would probably pay $40 for it. The rest was all rattle can!









Hec


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