# Cannot remove auger shaft from 42010



## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

New member, first post, hope you can help me.
I have an old vintage Troy-Bilt 42010 with a Tec HM80-15307L engine. I have maintained it well and it has returned the favor for years.
Today I hit a rock and the shear pin did not break. The left hand auger broke at the auger shaft attachment point. I cannot find a source for a replacement, even on E-Bay. So I made arrangements with a local shop to do a weld repair.
In order to do so properly, I wanted to remove the auger "blade" from the shaft. I took off the auger housing, the drive pulley, the drive shaft bushing and the triangular bearings on either end of the auger shaft. But this model has a hex-head bolt holding the shaft in place with washers on the outside of the triangular bearings. I cannot for the life of me get these bolts off! I have the correct size socket, have used penetrating oil, and even tried forcing them in opposite directions, thinking perhaps they were reverse threads. Even a fair amount of banging on the socket wrench has failed me. I have not put a torch to it because it does not appear to be a rust or corrosion issue - the bolt heads look pristine. 
What am I doing wrong? How do I get these out to remove the auger mechanism?
Many thanks for any advice!
Jim


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## 3repete (Nov 12, 2017)

At least you didn't snap off the bolts. No matter how beautiful the bolt heads look I'd say you need heat and impact. Maybe you can take the whole assembly to your welder if he has better tools.

I think I am going to go pull my shear pins today and be sure my augers can turn!


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## penna stogey (Nov 25, 2019)

Welcome to the SBF Jim....Relax, beers in the fridge....Cigars in the Humi....Enjoy!


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

Jim, Don't know where in MI you are but I've bought a few odd parts from this place, they list one
https://floydsoutdoorpower.net/shop...116001/?product-page=2&_sft_product_cat=auger
I personally think that's too much, but I've bought entire machines for less. Those are big bolts (3/4" I think) and can take a wallop. Cheater pipe over your ratchet or local garage/tire shop can run those out with a lug gun easy. Are the augers free on the shaft without the shear pins?


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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)

Should be able to weld up the auger without removing it from the machine. I suggest this because after you get the auger loose, you need to separate the shaft from the impeller to get the auger and transmission out. That won't come easy. Getting it out would be more of an off season job. I say just weld it and use it.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

3repete said:


> No matter how beautiful the bolt heads look I'd say you need heat and impact. Maybe you can take the whole assembly to your welder if he has better tools.


Ditto. Multiple applications of heat and penetrating oil is the way to go. Just be patient and keep the routine going 2-3 times a day if possible: Heat, non-flamable penatrating oil, and steady back-and-forth pressure turning the bolts. Try to use map gas instead of propane if possible. You can also try heating up the bolts red hot, then quickly hitting them with cold water. Sometimes the expansion of the bolts with heat followed by the sudden contraction from cold water will break the rust just enough to free up the bolts. If they still don't break free, your welder can probably free them up with an acetylene torch in a matter of minutes. Once out, don't forget to coat the bolts with a nice coating of anti-seize. Good Luck!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Jim,

I take them out very easily with a 1/2 inch air gun. Of course you need the compressor and tools for that.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF Jim.

:iagree: I think you need to have someone with an impact gun try it. It's the best of both worlds as it's hammering at the same time it's turning. Adding heat and some penetrating oil doesn't hurt.

If you don't have the compressor and gun the next best would be if you had a hand impact driver. Some auto parts stores have them as loaner tools. They are usually used to loosed screws but IIRC it's a 3/8" drive so a socket for your bolts will work too.
Make sure you have it set in the right (L or R) direction when using.


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## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

Update: Penetrating oil overnight, then propane torch heat in AM along with a 30" cheater pipe on the socket wrench and Presto - both came loose and I was easily able to remove the stuck bolts. Then had to work some to get the impeller bearing off the shaft, but was finally able to break her all down. Got the auger to the welder, changed out a worn belt while I had everything torn down, then re-lubed everything and reassembled before supper. Initial garage test looks good but snow tomorrow so I'll know for sure then.

Thanks for all the A+ advice! I really appreciate it.


Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

Great post and outcome. Just an aside, make sure you're using the right belt for the application otherwise it'll never live and you'll be back changing it all over again. Fractional horsepower belts from the auto parts stores aren't what you want. You need OEM or equivalent like STENS or the like.


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