# Beginner trying to learn... Auger Belt?



## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

*Auger Belt for 2000 Yard machine*

1st post here, and new to machine just starting to tinker around. I'm very green to anything, but i'm hoping to learn from this site. Open to any advise.. 

I recently had my auger belt break, and went to replace and most places only had belts without teeth? Would this be ok to use? What are the advantage/disadvantage of the teeth?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Use only fractional HP belts. snowblowers don't use those tooth belts. if you have a friendly local hardware store in your hood. they will have the stuff you need.k:k:k:k:k: *ALOHA from the paradise city.:smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027:*


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

OK, i was wondering because the belt that was on it has teeth, and the MTD part site has teeth belt as the Original part. But no where in my town had the belt that was on it. They only had smooth belts


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Two belts threads that might be educational, with lots of good advice: 
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-pretty-much-same-anyone-heard-pix-belts.html
and
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...a-p-9540430-india-made-kelvar-auger-belt.html

I was reading that the teeth can help keep the belt cooler, and also allow it to wrap around small pulleys more easily. 

I'd stick to a good brand of belt. The OEM belt, while more expensive, will usually be a decent choice, if you can't decide on an alternative. 

I'd suggest keeping a spare on-hand.


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

Thank you i first put my belt on over the brake of the bottom pulley and didn't know why it was smoking, After reading a little i took the bottom plate off and found the brake and fixed the belt. I felt really dumb for doing such a thing but didn't know any better. This is the 1st time i have ever worked on something motor driven. I dont even know how to change oil in a car. So i'm trying to research alot and learn, so i have heard you dont learn if you dont try. Thanks for all the advise


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

In the parts guide it doesn't say the width of the belt and on some site they dont have any less the 1/2. It would seem like mine would be a 3/8th is that possible?


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

demonbarber10 said:


> In the parts guide it doesn't say the width of the belt and on some site they dont have any less the 1/2. It would seem like mine would be a 3/8th is that possible?


You could have 3/8 belts. Check your manual and find out the part numbers. You can then usually find sites that cross reference your part number to the dimensions of the belt. If you google the part number, you will get several hits from sites that sell belts. If you can't find one locally, just order it up and it will be there in a couple of days.

The belts with teeth or cogs are designed so that they can run on smaller diameter pulleys, the space between the teeth lets the belt turn tighter. If you have really small pulleys on your machine, you should try and find the cogged belts. 

You should also try and get Kevlar reinforced belts, particularly for the auger as they are much stronger, and stand up to shock loads which augers always seem to find.

Automotive belts are not usually strong enough for snowblower and other outdoor power equipment. Belts used on other applications like furnace motors or small pumps are also not suitable.


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> Use only fractional HP belts.


Do not use fractional HP belts, they wont last. Use a proper outdoor power equipment belt.



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> snowblowers don't use those tooth belts.


Some of them do. They aren't especially common, but some do use them, the older MTDs with dual small auger belts for example use a cogged belts.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If you have a Tractor Supply Company / Rural King or some other local farm store in your area they usually have cheap belts if you know your size. I don't think I have seen cogged belts there though. They are normally around $5 - $6 unless you are getting one of those larger riding mower belts.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

What brand of blower youse got????????????????


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## alleyyooper (Sep 12, 2015)

Any auto parts store or farm equipment parts dealer worth its salt will have a belt measuring stick and unless the belt is broken is several spots it can measure you belt close enough to get a new one. the stick also measures the width.










May or may not look like the one pictured.


 Al


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

94EG8 said:


> Do not use fractional HP belts, they wont last. Use a proper outdoor power equipment belt.
> 
> Some of them do. They aren't especially common, but some do use them, the older MTDs with dual small auger belts for example use a cogged belts.


Some have cogged belts some don't.

You want to make sure you're not using an "Automotive" belt. You need a lawn and garden or fractional HP belt.

I use Gates belts from Oreilly Auto Parts and have had no problems. I usually use Oreilly because I need the belt now and they have or can get it in a day normally. 
Originally fractional HP belts were made for engines less than 1 HP, thus the name fractional. No clue when that changed but even in the description of a Gates fractional belts is says engines up to 13HP.
So the term "fractional" isn't always what it used to mean.

As for kevlar, I'm not sure that means anything other than there is kevlar (aramid) fiber in the belt. It doesn't tell you how much, 2 strands or 10 ?? or if it's automotive, Lawn and garden, ...
So with kevlar you still want to know the application and how may strands/bands of kevlar a belt has if you're comparing them.

Snow blowers, page 305
http://www.gates.com/~/media/files/...ounds-maintenance-equipment-4312061.pdf?la=en


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

The belt angle is different between auto, and small engines. I think the small engine belt angle is 38 degrees, I don't know what the automobile belt angle is.
Sid


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

Some of them do. They aren't especially common, but some do use them, the older MTDs with dual small auger belts for example use a cogged belts.[/QUOTE]


Mine is a 2000 so i maybe thats why it has a cogged belt


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

Shryp said:


> If you have a Tractor Supply Company / Rural King or some other local farm store in your area they usually have cheap belts if you know your size. I don't think I have seen cogged belts there though. They are normally around $5 - $6 unless you are getting one of those larger riding mower belts.


I got my belt at rural king, They didn't have the Cogged belt that is what got my mind thinking and join this site to get more info. I believe i'm going on MTD site and ordering some things from there, thinking a set of belts will be a good idea since nowhere has them in stock locally


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

2000' MTD Yard Machine with Tecumseh 5 hp motor


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

As long as you are going to the mfgrs site, check what else you might need for a full rehab in spring. Look at friction wheel rubber, hex shaft bushings, drive axle bushings, auger bushings, impeller rear bearing etc. and other rotating/wearing parts. Those are the kind of wear items that a 2000 machine might need by now. Hopefully, everything you need will still be available, but you might be getting to the age where things start coming up NLA. 

As long as you have to take it apart once, you might as well be proactive and do it all in one shot, so you don't run into problems next year.

I find that with those "permanently" lubricated for the life of the bearings and bushings the manual brags about, that means that they are permanently lubricated, until the lubrication runs out and the bushings go bad which is the end of the life of the bushing. 

Call me a rebel, but I lubricate my "permanently lubricated bushings" every year.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

MY Neighbor had 1 of those. I had to get belts for it at me friendly local hood hardware store. they were MTD branded belts and they were NOT cogged. but they did come in a 2 pack. because some years ran a 2 belt system.k:k:k:k:k:


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

yea i have seen that the belts come in a two pack i wondered why? that must be the reason some models have a two belt system


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

Wow!!! Like my original post states i'm very novice when it comes to working on things so. I'm not to sure i would know if they were bad or not haha. Thanks for the advise


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

how do i find what year it is. i see they made them 2000-2002 with my model number?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

demonbarber10 said:


> how do i find what year it is. i see they made them 2000-2002 with my model number?


post a pic of the stickers on the rear end of the tractor. I will decifer it for you.mg::emoticon-south-park


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

demonbarber10 said:


> how do i find what year it is. i see they made them 2000-2002 with my model number?


As far as knowing whats worn, it's not too difficult to figure out. When you are done with the snow this year make sure you empty the fuel tank and run the engine until it runs out of gas in the carb. That way, you can tilt it up on the auger bucket and remove the belly plate so you can get at all the moving parts and see what's what.

You will want to take the wheels off, and clean the axles of old grease and rust. While they are off, move the axles up and down and sideways and see if there is a lot of play or slop where they go through the bushings to the inside of the transmission area.

You will also find a hexagonal shaped shaft in there with the friction wheel on it. That shaft has bushings on the ends that support it in the side plates. Give them a shake and see if they have slop and side to side movement.

Clean the hex shaft surfaces off with gas or some grease cutter, or if it's got a lot of rust on it, a wire brush or wheel mounted in a drill to get it down to nice clean metal. Then apply a light coating of grease, and cover the surfaces of the shaft. Don't use too much grease as you don't want blobs of flying around and landing on the aluminum drive disk that engages with the rubber friction wheel. The idea here is to keep the shaft from rusting up so the friction wheel can slide easily when you are working the machine.

The friction wheel slides sideways on the hex shaft to different locations giving you your forward and reverse speeds. When you have got the shaft all cleaned up, the friction wheel assembly should slide nice and easy along the hex shaft as you shift the gears on the control panel. 

If the bushings on the shaft are good, you will want to get some oil into them to try and keep them that way. I oil these in several applications as mine are bronze and they take some time to for the oil to get in there. After you're done oiling clean up any drips and excess. Same goes for chains, a bit of oil, and clean up any excess with a clean rag after its soaked in. 

There may be chains and sprockets, or big gears, or a combination of both. Chains need oil or chain lube, gears need grease. In all cases DONT over do the lubricants. You don't want stuff flying around onto the friction disk or wheel. 

The shaft where the wheels go will have bushings/bearings where the shaft goes thru the side plates. Check those for slop. If they are sloppy replace them, if they are good lubricate them. When everything is cleaned, replaced, lubed and pretty, clean off the friction disk with gas or grease cutter so its squeaky clean, clean off the rubber wheel, and clean off the axles where the wheels go, and put a light coat of grease on the shafts so the wheels don't rust onto them, the reinstall the wheels, give them a free spin on the axles, then bolt them up, or install the click pins or whatever method is used to keep them on.

Take a look at the nameplate, where model and serial number are located. There's probably a date code on that plate someplace. You can also find the motor model and serial on the engine somewhere which may have a date code. Between the date codes, somebody should be able to decipher the code and figure out the year.

When you actually get into doing the work, start a new thread if you get into problems, or need more detailed pointers on any particular aspect. What I have written above is only the transmission/drive system. Theres other stuff to do as well.


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## demonbarber10 (Feb 20, 2016)

WOW This post is exactly what i needed. I didn't know i needed to do/check all of these. I'm kinda pumped to start this process and see how my machine is holding up. 

Also i have alot of paint peal/some rust. I was wondering the best method of going about redoing/replacing the metal? maybe scrap down and get some rustolem spray paint or maybe a powder coating?


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