# Re-painting question



## sunflake

I know a lot of you guys have put a fresh coat of paint on your blowers. I'm going to put a new coat of Toro apple red on my '73 blower. What do you guys suggest for removing/sealing the rust besides sanding? That I'm going to do. I just don't want to do all the work and find the rust coming back through the new paint/clear coat. Where do you find new decals/stickers? How do I do this right with minimal power tools?


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## HCBPH

To take off old paint and rust I use both a angle grinder with a twisted wire cup brush on it along with an abrasive blaster after disassembling the parts. Once it's cleaned off, I then use Evaporust on it to neutralize any remaining rust. After that I prime using rust inhibiting primer - typically Rustoleum then a good paint.

So far they're holding up for me. Hope that helps.


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## woodtick007

If it were mine. I would sandblast is and then prime with and epoxy primer followed up by any kind of enamel paint. I sandblasted my my Yanmar 1610D and primed it with the PPG epoxy primer and the stuff is tough as nails. Well worth the $ if your gonna time and effort. It will never rust again....very very tuff stuff.


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## HCBPH

I don't know if it still applies or not, so whatever you do - be careful. In my youth I helped a guy paint a race car with 2 part epoxy paint. I wasn't around when he painted it, found out he'd collapsed and was taken to the hospital. The fumes were extremely toxic and required alot more than a simple filter system which we didn't have. Be very sure of what you're using along with any requirements to insure you stay safe.


I'm trying to remember the name of that paint, it was something like empron (best I can remember). Durable as heck, in fact you could wipe it down with nitromethane and take off all the advertising lettering and not even touch the base paint so it was extremely durable but potentially deadly if inhaled.


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## GustoGuy

I used an angle grinder and a medium grinding disc to remove the rust. I was lucky since my snow blower was relatively rust free. I then used Rustoleum rust preventing primer and finished it off with Duplicolor Ford high temp engine red enamel and clear coated it with 500 degree clear engine enamel topcoat and it shines as good as the day I bought it. I taped off all my decals with Frog tape painters tape and i waxed it up good with nu-finish after it all dried. Looks real good for a 16+ year old snowblower.


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## JerryJ

HCBPH said:


> I don't know if it still applies or not, so whatever you do - be careful. In my youth I helped a guy paint a race car with 2 part epoxy paint. I wasn't around when he painted it, found out he'd collapsed and was taken to the hospital. The fumes were extremely toxic and required alot more than a simple filter system which we didn't have. Be very sure of what you're using along with any requirements to insure you stay safe.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to remember the name of that paint, it was something like empron (best I can remember). Durable as heck, in fact you could wipe it down with nitromethane and take off all the advertising lettering and not even touch the base paint so it was extremely durable but potentially deadly if inhaled.


I repainted a an old 1948 engine and I found the fumes overwhelming.
I bought my self a gas mask the one designed for gasses and fumes NOT the one for dust.

Now I can paint inside my small shop and no bother with the fumes.
I was over come years ago with KleenFlo parts cleaner and also taken to the hospital. I actually felt better just as we arrived but it was a lesson not to be in close vicinity to these products

Yea, do it right or don't do it.

BTW when I restore my older engines I also use every technique that I can think of. hen if the surface has some roughness or pitting you can use sopt putty and sand it down. You'll have to do that several times and sand to the extent of a 800 grit paper, then prime and then sand again to a 1500 or 1600 grit paper. This all provides that super smooth surface you want....then go to town on the spray paint


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## Simplicity Solid 22

If you use the rustoleum rust preventer/sealer primer just be aware it is very very thin so practice on something first. Buy several cans it goes quick. Dont get to close and keep moving with the can.


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## JerryJ

Simplicity Solid 22 said:


> If you use the rustoleum rust preventer/sealer primer just be aware it is very very thin so practice on something first. Buy several cans it goes quick. Dont get to close and keep moving with the can.


I agree 100%. if you're just doing a simple job then don't sweat it. But if you want to do a job that you want to be proud of, grab some scrap pieces that you can practice on. Get some old no-good snowblower (or other parts) and work on them like they're worth the investment.
Keep practicing and don't be afraid to invest $20 $30 or $40 worth of supplies on scrap stuff and get the feel of success and failure. Only then you will develope your own method and technique.
I was never that good in the beginning and while I'm not great now I practiced on junk and I'm kind of proud of my painting.


The red engine is a 1926 Suffolk Iron Foundry engine
The green machine is a 1927 2-stroke Cushman that I restored last summer. I had to repaint parts of the green about 3 times before I got it right. I guess I was fussy. But, the better the body work, the better the final product. The best works starts at the beginning not the paint job itself. Slow down, take your time and if you see any flaws, then redo it until you're satisfied (That will be your call and your call only)

Presently I'm working on a 1948 REO 4-stroke. I have a few other oldies that I won't get near until the spring/summer
These are only for static display


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## Simplicity Solid 22

JerryJ,

What is that Green box next to the actual cushman engine???

So for the naivete!


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## JerryJ

Simplicity Solid 22 said:


> JerryJ,
> 
> What is that Green box next to the actual cushman engine???
> 
> So for the naivete!


That is a battery box because this unit works off of a 6VDC battery and coil.
The ignition contact points are external. I actually searched around for vintage looking wiring (that cloth wiring) so everything was period correct.
I had to include a couple of the before pics to better show the machine.
The one unique thing about this unit is it was before the WW2 and the amount of original brass that was used on the engine made this look like art work. Notice the flywheel works externally with no shroud over it, almost like a waterwheel.
Remember in world war two, all brass, copper and other special metals were being used for the war effort. Then post war, manufactures found it was cheaper not to use these special metals 
While the 27 Cushman was covered in brass, the 26 Suffulk didn't have as much. The 48 REO had very little brass


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## Simplicity Solid 22

JerryJ said:


> That is a battery box because this unit works off of a 6VDC battery and coil.
> The ignition contact points are external. I actually searched around for vintage looking wiring (that cloth wiring) so everything was period correct.
> I had to include a couple of the before pics to better show the machine.
> The one unique thing about this unit is it was before the WW2 and the amount of original brass that was used on the engine made this look like art work. Notice the flywheel works externally with no shroud over it, almost like a waterwheel.
> Remember in world war two, all brass, copper and other special metals were being used for the war effort. Then post war, manufactures found it was cheaper not to use these special metals
> While the 27 Cushman was covered in brass, the 26 Suffulk didn't have as much. The 48 REO had very little brass


very cool...great job!

When I first lloked at pic I thought the wire from the battery box was going into fuel tank so that threw me off. I like the paint scheme very period looks like the color of that time like the old pick up truck schemes of that time kinda.


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