# Power steering not working - clutch / dog rusted and stuck



## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Have Poulan Pro 927 and the right power steering does not work. After opening up the cover, I see some rust on the dog / clutch - see pic - which may be the cause for the clutch / dog not disengaging / releasing. I also opened the left side and it is working / moving just fine. Tried to use a mallet to free up the dog / clutch but didn't work. Sprayed PB Blaster and will leave it overnight (and may try a heatgun tomorrow as well). Any experienced folks with some insights on how I can "free" this dog / clutch? All other things are intact / seem to be working. Based on my research on the web / youtube, the power steering mechanism seems to be the same / similar across different brands (this, Toro, Arien, etc.). Any insights would be greatly appreciated.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Hoster said:


> Have Poulan Pro 927 and the right power steering does not work. After opening up the cover, I see some rust on the dog / clutch - see pic - which may be the cause for the clutch / dog not disengaging / releasing. I also opened the left side and it is working / moving just fine. Tried to use a mallet to free up the dog / clutch but didn't work. Sprayed PB Blaster and will leave it overnight (and may try a heatgun tomorrow as well). Any experienced folks with some insights on how I can "free" this dog / clutch? All other things are intact / seem to be working. Based on my research on the web / youtube, the power steering mechanism seems to be the same / similar across different brands (this, Toro, Arien, etc.). Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 170694


EDIT< ( took the word bump out, now I just asked a question.) 

Welcome,
Did it work?
Someone here must know?
I never worked on one.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

ed
do you remember what day it is in the USA today, every body is feeding thier faces maybe latter tonight or tomorrow someone who has will answer the post no need to bump it again


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

No..no luck as I sprayed PB Blaster multiple times over a 48 hr period but no luck. Plus applying a heat gun did not help much either. And I did test while the blower is moving (engaged in Drive) and the auger is turning....

I guess I will just turn left all the time


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## Mr. JT Monk (Oct 27, 2020)

Hoster said:


> No..no luck as I sprayed PB Blaster multiple times over a 48 hr period but no luck. Plus applying a heat gun did not help much either. And I did test while the blower is moving (engaged in Drive) and the auger is turning....
> 
> I guess I will just turn left all the time


Did you try pulling the affected wheel off and check it for rust at the wheel bushing?
I think it needs to be clean, free of corrosion and lubed. 
I had this happen on my Cub Cadet some years ago. It was not badly corroded yet, so I was able to free it. But I disassembled all parts on that side and cleaned and lubed. 
Never had an issue again. 

Maybe this video will help?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Hoster said:


> No..no luck as I sprayed PB Blaster multiple times over a 48 hr period but no luck. Plus applying a heat gun did not help much either. And I did test while the blower is moving (engaged in Drive) and the auger is turning....
> 
> I guess I will just turn left all the time


In your picture I see the black piece over it has adjustments.
Does the piece work right? 
Is that what brakes the one side so the machine turns?
I don't know, I never worked on them. 
It looks like if that piece is not working right, that would do what it is doing?

I figured that someone else with knowledge on these would have chimed in, but I guess I was wrong.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Sounds like a plan. This spring or summer disassemble and repair.


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Mr. JT Monk said:


> Did you try pulling the affected wheel off and check it for rust at the wheel bushing?
> I think it needs to be clean, free of corrosion and lubed.
> I had this happen on my Cub Cadet some years ago. It was not badly corroded yet, so I was able to free it. But I disassembled all parts on that side and cleaned and lubed.
> Never had an issue again.
> ...


Thanks and will certainly try to disassemble further after this season before I put it away. The video does help and will take a look. Thanks!!


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Big Ed said:


> In your picture I see the black piece over it has adjustments.
> Does the piece work right?
> Is that what brakes the one side so the machine turns?
> I don't know, I never worked on them.
> ...


Thanks for your comment...the "black piece" actually pushes the dog towards the body of the blower (when the trigger pulls the clutch cable), making the dog / clutch to be "released" which causes wheel spin to stop (hence the right turn). This dog does not move / budge at all - the left one is fine. Will need to disassemble further.....the saga continues


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

and my clutch / dog mechanism is exactly the same as this one...


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

according to the diagrams it looks like you can try tapping on that ring to break it free


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Thanks and will also try again. I did tap with my rubber mallet on the black piece while applying heat. Per ur recommendation, will try to tap again with a stick or a screwdriver in between....will ensure i dont damage the dog...thanks for ur advice!!


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> according to the diagrams it looks like you can try tapping on that ring to break it free
> View attachment 171247


By the way, are you referring to a parts diagram or is there a "separate" service-related diagram? If service-related, can you send or post? Thanks!


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

parts diagram. that looks to be the part that moves to unlock the wheel when you pull the trigger. you may need more than a rubber mallet to shock it free. almost need metal to metal even if you are not hitting it hard. sometimes just some lite taps on a punch with break the rust free and allow it to start moving again. there is a spring behind it so it will likely jump back into place after you tap it if it doesn't stick in the freewheel position.


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> parts diagram. that looks to be the part that moves to unlock the wheel when you pull the trigger. you may need more than a rubber mallet to shock it free. almost need metal to metal even if you are not hitting it hard. sometimes just some lite taps on a punch with break the rust free and allow it to start moving again. there is a spring behind it so it will likely jump back into place after you tap it if it doesn't stick in the freewheel position.


Sounds good....and thanks!! Did try to spray PB blaster inside and "backside" of the dog before but will do so before i start banging on it..


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## Houptee (Feb 9, 2021)

You have to use small thin screwdriver and remove the wire clip from the outer dog. Then the outer dog will come off the shaft if you can get it to break loose with lots of wd-40. After the outer dog is off there is a snap ring that holds the inner dog on but inner dog has spring pressure pushing outward on it. The spring is what makes the dogs mesh when you release the handles. The entire black mechanism can be removed if you lift out the pivot pin and set it off to the side leave cable attached. The inner dog has splines on the shaft that is probably where it is rusted. So if you get outer dog off then saturate with oil behind the retaining clip it should break free. Once you get it all apart wire brush the splines and lube everything really good with motor oil or marine anti corrosion trailer bearing grease.
Mine has problem where the dogs clik and separate on right side under any load. I think the big spring is worn out so it can't maintain enough pressure on the dogs.


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Thanks for the input and will certainly try when the weather gets warmer  Just to be sure, you are referring to the part #22 or 33 below, correct?


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## Houptee (Feb 9, 2021)

Part 21 the toothed dog is held on by wire ring 33 in a groove on the teeth. You gently pry it out with a thin screwdriver or pick and slide wire ring out towards you. Then the outer gear 21 will side off the shaft exposing a snap ring the kind with two holes that you need a snap ring plier to expand it to get it off. But there is pressure on the gear 23 from spring 25 so you need to pull the trigger to take the pressure off the snap ring. Then once snap ring is off 23, 24, spring 25 and splined hub 26 should all pull off shaft. Splined hub 26 has a square key 27 under it to hold it on shaft so dont lose it if it falls out. Once its all apart clean the splines on inside of dog 24 and outside of hub 26 those splines are what slide to release and engage the clutch teeth. Those splines are probably rusted so its not sliding in and out easy. Look at the video you posted of the guy lubricating with the graphite spray and see how inner dog 24 gets pushed back by the black bracket pins when he pulls trigger. All the moving action takes place between 24 pushing in on spring 25 sliding on the splines on hub 26.


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Wow....impressed with your detailed description and really appreciate it!!! Thanks!!


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

That is a very common problem with the 'Steering' clutches malfunctioning. They have to be kept clean and greased/lubricated constantly or things will 'Seize' up and not be allowed to move properly.
They have to be serviced at every time the machine is used a lot of times.


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## Houptee (Feb 9, 2021)

My Husky 10530SBE went underwater in Hurricane Sandy in my garage. The water was 32" deep level with top of my workbench. The Tecumseh actually started up after I drained and changed the oil and gas but it only ran for 20 mins then threw the rod out side of the block. I put a Harbor Freight $99 212cc motor on it and lubricated every bearing and pivot point with 10w-40 oil and also used can of chain lube spray with a straw and injected into all the bearings etc. It still works fine but the right side clutch keeps clicking and the teeth open then snap back together when I hit deep snow. I had the clutch apart 3 times checked everything and it looks fine but still pops and clicks. Really annoying. The cables are free and not the issue because when you let go of the triggers the cable has slack and clutches engage from the spring tension. So only thing I can think is the spring #25 is not strong enough anymore to keep the dogs squeezed together under a load.
But then I was looking at this Husky parts website and some of the clutch dog parts say (!) this part replaces part # (old #) for items 21 outer dog, 24 inner dog, and 26 splined hub.
The spring is still same part number.
Wondering if this means they updated the design of the parts or just a part number change?
www.ahupd.com


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Yeah..i am learning this the hard way  I thought I maintain my equipment well but failed on this one.....


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Thanks again for your feedback....as I was trying to fix and work on the snowblower before I put it away, the power steering "auto-magically" worked!!! I did nothing and the dog "just released" - the only thing I can think of is the warmer weather / temperature (e.g., 30's vs. 50's) but I would imagine warmer weather will cause metal to expand not shrink (if at all but at the temperature of 50's??). Weird but not complaining....just tried to clean the rust off with PB Blaster, applied some lithium grease (didn't have any graphite lubricant)..and fingers crossed


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## Houptee (Feb 9, 2021)

I replaced my Springs on my Husqvarna due to one side was clicking and not staying in drive. I guess I have to wait until next winter to see if the springs fixed the issue. Everything looked good nothing is stripped or worn out so it must be the spring tension became weak and not holding the clutch teeth meshed together hard enough and they would push apart under load and click back together in deep snow. I used Marine anti corrosion grease on the splines and some 10w-30 oil.
You might want to disassemble yours and clean and lube the shaft and splines or the mechanism will not slide properly.
To get the snap ring off 90 deg snap ring pliers is best as you pull the trigger to take spring pressure off the snap ring, then same for reassembly you need to push in and pull trigger then snap it back in the groove.


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## Hoster (Nov 25, 2020)

Thanks and good pics...will definitely help me as I want to get rid of remaining rust..had a snap ring pliers but can't find it . Thanks again!!


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## Duffer (15 d ago)

Houptee said:


> I replaced my Springs on my Husqvarna due to one side was clicking and not staying in drive. I guess I have to wait until next winter to see if the springs fixed the issue. Everything looked good nothing is stripped or worn out so it must be the spring tension became weak and not holding the clutch teeth meshed together hard enough and they would push apart under load and click back together in deep snow. I used Marine anti corrosion grease on the splines and some 10w-30 oil.
> You might want to disassemble yours and clean and lube the shaft and splines or the mechanism will not slide properly.
> To get the snap ring off 90 deg snap ring pliers is best as you pull the trigger to take spring pressure off the snap ring, then same for reassembly you need to push in and pull trigger then snap it back in the groove.
> 
> ...


I am up in Ottawa and was looking at the great pictures that you posted.
I am getting the clicking sound from the right side after I use the power steer.. I can see that it is still engaged once I release the cable so I'm going to try to replace that spring on the inner side and was wondering if that fixture issue thanks again.


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