# Fairly New Ariens Just Stops???



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Hi,

Here's a little history of my machine.

I have a 2011 Ariens 24" Deluxe with about 30 hours on it total. Last year I added hand warmers and a switch for the light so that I don't have to run the light in the day along with the hand warmers; it just seemed to make sense. It got it's first oil change after 5-8 hours of use in April of 2012. After every season, I drain the tank in addition to carburetor by removing the bowl and letting whatever gas is left over drain into a cup until it is dry. Finally, any gas that I use is treated with both Seafoam to clean the carb. and Stabil to keep the gas fresh. The spark plug has never been changed.

So, the other day I was using it in about 5" - 6" of light snow. It was working great, then it just stopped running. It didn't slow down or hesitate and it certainly was not under a heavy load. it just stopped. I immediately thought that because I haven't changed the oil in about 25+ hours that maybe that could be the cause. I let it sit for about 30 minutes, changed the oil, and added gas. It started right up and finished the job easily.

Today, I was out clearing another 5" of very light snow when it stopped again. No warning or hesitation, it just stopped. I added some gas and it started again without any issues a few minutes later after stopping. In both situations, the gas was low, but the tank was not dry.

Why is this happening? Could it be the plug? Could the carb. or something else, be preventing the engine from getting fuel? Or, did I really do something bad by not changing the oil after last season?


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## devans (Aug 4, 2014)

This is going to sound odd but it happened to my 2013 deluxe 30. It would do the same thing as yours, just suddenly die but mine wouldn't restart right away.
Leave it alone for a bit and it would start again only to die about 15 minutes later.
I figured it was a spark issue. Turns out one of the wires for the safety key had popped off causing it to die. I had to squeeze the female spade connector a little to get it to stay on. Been fine ever since.
Easy fix and worth looking at.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

It is always recommended to change the oil seasonally. Most change it at the end of a season so fresh oil is in contact with bearing surfaces over the summer. Some prefer to change it at the end of a season. So long as the level is OK then your 25 hours old oil should not have caused the problem.

Sounds like you just ran out of gas on each occasion. Looking into the gas tank and seeing a sheen of gas is no indication that you have enough gas to run the engine, especially if under some load. Try putting a clean measuring tape or screwdriver into the tank to gauge the level of fuel. How high do you fill the tank? And how long does that last since you may have a fuel leak.

Good luck.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

check your ignition for spark as soon as it dies. I dont think it would be a fuel issue because it would probably give some indication before it dies. example- my honda clone starts surging when its low on fuel


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

43128 said:


> check your ignition for spark as soon as it dies. I dont think it would be a fuel issue because it would probably give some indication before it dies. example- my honda clone starts surging when its low on fuel



I really don't know much about engines. How would I check for spark?


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Happened to me too, just once this winter. I had an awful time getting it going again, but when I finally did, it was fine up until a few days ago, when I couldn't get it to start at all.
As to checking for spark, the easiest way that I know is, if you have an extra spark plug, attach your plug wire to it and make sure that the bottom end of the plug is touching bare metal, somewhere on the engine. Now spin the engine over and watch the spark plug to see if you can see a spark. Not so easy to do if you don't have an electric starter, you might want a helper.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Some fuel tank caps can have the vents get plugged up. This will cause a vacuum and hold the gas in the tank instead of letting it get to the engine.

Some tanks have the fuel pickup about a half an inch up from the bottom of the tank. This will make it impossible to get all of the fuel out.

Some tanks have the fuel outlet on one side or the other. Depending on which direction the tank is leaning can mean all the gas is on the opposite side and the engine is sucking air through the carb.

Some engines have the fuel lines dipping a bit low and then coming back up. With these they always run like crap when the tank is low because there isn't enough weight to push it up the hill and into the carb.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

sounds to me that its just running out of gas..
my ariens will stall out when it looks like there is still 1/2" of gas in the tank.
I think its because there isnt enough "weight" of gas to push it through to the carb.

try with it the tank more than half full..

Scot


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies.

I did forget to mention that the fuel cap does have a rubber seal that is totally unattached. Could the problem be as simple as that seal not being as tight as it should be?


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## Stuofsci02 (Feb 16, 2015)

Smolenski7 said:


> Thanks for all the replies.
> 
> I did forget to mention that the fuel cap does have a rubber seal that is totally unattached. Could the problem be as simple as that seal not being as tight as it should be?


Nah... You should be able to run with no cap all together.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Stuofsci02 said:


> Nah... You should be able to run with no cap all together.


Unless said poor seal has allowed a lot of water to enter the tank.


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Shryp said:


> Some fuel tank caps can have the vents get plugged up. This will cause a vacuum and hold the gas in the tank instead of letting it get to the engine.



I talked with 2 different dealers and they both said the same thing. I'm going to start with replacing the gas cap.

It doesn't seem that anyone has it in stock, so I'm going to have to order one online or through the dealer. Apparently I have several choices, I would like to know if it really matters which one I buy.

1. A normal everyday plastic cap (fresh start): $6.47
2. A normal everyday plastic cap (text free): $9.31
3. Plastic with carbon in the cap (This is what I have currently): $24.59
4. A cap with a fuel gauge: $24.59

I would like to hear some opinions.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Smolenski7 said:


> I talked with 2 different dealers and they both said the same thing. I'm going to start with replacing the gas cap.
> 
> It doesn't seem that anyone has it in stock, so I'm going to have to order one online or through the dealer. Apparently I have several choices, I would like to know if it really matters which one I buy.
> 
> ...


 I would just ask Ariens for the proper replacement and go from there, in the meantime you could poke a needle size hole through the top of the cap so it lets air in. Or as mentioned earlier when the engine dies just untwist the cap and listen for a slight hiss when doing so, after a couple minutes if it is a cap vent problem the engine should start again. Keep us posted and Good Luck


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Along with what Shryp said, there is an easy test for a bad gas cap. The next time it shuts off, take the gas cap off, then screw it back on, and try starting the engine again. 

If it runs ok for a while again, then your gas cap is likely not venting properly, and needs to be replaced. In a pinch, you could just try leaving it loose.


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