# Tecumseh Engine Electric Starter - stripped threads in mounting bolt holes



## CO Snow

I have about a 10 yr old Craftsman with a 9 HP Tecumseh. The electric starter is held in place with 4 bolts. The bottom 2 bolts (1/2" long) are the ones that really hold it in place. The threads are stripped in one of the holes that the bolts go into so the starter keeps falling off. These holes are on the *outside of the engine wall and are 5/8" deep*. I can't retap the hole for a larger size bolt because there is not enough clearance to turn a larger size bolt head without it binding against the starter. So I am considering using a Time Sert (www.timesert.com) thread replacement.

The inserts length options are either 0.38" or 0.5". But the hole needs to be 0.25" deeper than the insert. I don't know if I can drill the hole in the engine to make it an additional 1/8" deeper (total 3/4" deep) in order to use the 1/2" insert. I don't want to risk damaging the engine by drilling deeper. But would I get enough hold using a 0.38" treaded insert with a 1/2" coarse thread bolt? There is SO much vibration on this engine that everything loosens.

Any ideas?


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## Waterlooboy2hp

Why not go ahead and re-tap for 5/16"threads and get yourself a 5/16-18 allen cap screw. The round head will have plenty of clearance. Also, you might try adding a lock washer. --- John


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## CO Snow

John,

That sounds like a GREAT idea. I had only tried a hex head bolt. And I will use a lock washer. Previously I had used blue Lock Tite but that didn't hold and the bolt came out. But that may have been because I didn't have solid threads to start with. THANK YOU. This also avoids the $$$ with the cost of a Time Sert kit.


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## CO Snow

The previous bolt was a 1/4"-20. Would I get better holding power with 5/16"-18 or 5/16"-24?


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## micah68kj

Personally I'd go with the 5/16" -18 but that's just me. I would definitely use a lock washer. Don't over torque or you'll be right back to square one.


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## darcy32171

Couldn`t you also use a studs and just green loctite them in forever...then use lockwashers and nuts.


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## micah68kj

darcy32171 said:


> Couldn`t you also use a studs and just green loctite them in forever...then use lockwashers and nuts.


Sure. Till you have to take the starter off to clean and re-lube it because it stopped engaging. Maybe a drop of blue loctite.


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## darcy32171

Maybe I spoke too soon before checking mine. Are the holes not visible? Or does it bolt through the case and into the starter housing?


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## td5771

If you re-tap it and have a hardware store wear people a knowledgeable, ask them for a 5/16 -18 "bottoming" tap. 

start with a regular tap that is pointy. it will stop at the bottom of the hole and you wint have good threads all the way down. then go back in with the "bottoming" tap which does not have the point a regular tap has. It starts cutting full threads from the end. It will cut full threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.


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## CO Snow

The bottom of the starter has metal tabs with holes in them. The bolt goes through the tab and into the threaded hole in the engine. The bolts are visible. The starter is positioned under the gas tank.


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## nt40lanman

I would check for inserts or helicoils that are low profile and try to maintain the 1/4 bolt because the original Philips heads are already tight in there.

Not that I like the idea too much but... you could drill all the way into the case to make depth for an insert and put sealer on the bolts. Yea, I know it sounds wrong but I could make it reliable.


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## Blue Hill

If you go with the Allen head cap screws (that would be my choice) you might need special lock washers. High collar lock washers are made for the Allen caps. They have a smaller o.d.


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## HCBPH

*Starter bolt holes*

Yes I've repaired some starter mounting holes that were damaged or stripped with a helicoil repair kit. Simple, easy to do and durable. Can't ask for more than that.


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