# Anyone with Briggs 342cc and heated handgrips and light?



## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

Looking for the engine model number and type. I have a Toro 1128 that came with factory light and I added heated grips. I had to change the alternator but the light still dims a little. So not sure my dealer sold me the correct alt. If you have this combination in a Ariens (Heated grips and light with Briggs 342cc) could I get the engine model from you and type? it should be stamped on the side of the valve cover. Thanks.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

On my old 342cc Briggs I had on my "Husky" I remember the light dimming when I turned the handwarmers on.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Jeff, I've got an Ariens 921036 which is B&S 342cc + heated grips. No dimming noted with the use of heated grips.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Diagram: 474G 

Part number: 797090 Alternator

Used on Type No(s).
0110, 0113, 0114,
0117, 0121, 0134,
0135, 0137, 1470,
1475, 1476, 1478,
1481, 1483, 1600,
*2121*, 2470, 2476,
2481, 2483, 3475​


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## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

Thank you sir! My dealer sold me 696742 which is a dual circuit (did not need AC). It is only rated for 2-4 amps DC. I am thinking my light should not dim if I had the correct alt. I had an Ariens Deluxe 28 that I added the Ariens heated grip kit and the light did not diim while running the heated grips. You are running the same alt that my Ariens 250cc had. I will research and see if this will work with my flywheel. Do you know what flywheel you have? Thanks.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

No, I don't know anything about the flywheel. I do have the parts manual if you want me to send a copy to you. I tried to upload it but it exceeds the size limitation.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

hfjeff said:


> Thank you sir! My dealer sold me 696742 which is a dual circuit (did not need AC). It is only rated for 2-4 amps DC. I am thinking my light should not dim if I had the correct alt. I had an Ariens Deluxe 28 that I added the Ariens heated grip kit and the light did not diim while running the heated grips. You are running the same alt that my Ariens 250cc had. I will research and see if this will work with my flywheel. Do you know what flywheel you have? Thanks.



If that light is halogen you could run it off the AC output, and leave the 
DC for the grips. Or stick a full wave bridge rectifier and a couple of capacitors on the AC output and turn it into DC if you have LED lighting


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## putty (Mar 13, 2015)

I have a Briggs and Stratton 21M314-0121-E1 with a 797090 5 amp Alternator that I pulled out for a 10 amp one, I got a 794812 Flywheel


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## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

I found a brand new 797090 on Ebay for $15 plus free shipping so I snagged it. I will give it a try. Interesting info about using the AC if it is a halogen bulb. I am not sure if it is or not but worth checking. Here is what was in it and what I replaced it with:

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I cut the DC lead off the original and spliced it on the new alternator so I could keep the same harness connector. I taped off the AC lead. On the old one, black was DC. On the new one Red is DC and Black is AC. They both have the same diode part number built into the lead as shown in the pics.


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## putty (Mar 13, 2015)

I wonder if you could cut off the diodes and feed both lines to a ac/dc rectifier(like from the LED thread). Seems like the one your not going to use would have more amps. More amps you could add some Led lighting.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)




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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

putty said:


> I wonder if you could cut off the diodes and feed both lines to a ac/dc rectifier(like from the LED thread). Seems like the one your not going to use would have more amps. More amps you could add some Led lighting.



Might also be interesting to try running the heated grips on the AC supply. They are purely resistive, should work and have capacity left over.


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## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

skutflut said:


> Might also be interesting to try running the heated grips on the AC supply. They are purely resistive, should work and have capacity left over.


I was wondering this myself. They are just a wire coil so I would think it would work. Only issue is I would have to run a 3rd wire up to the console and cut the connectors to splice in. I did order the other alt and it has been shipped so I am anxious to see if this fixes it. I will be sure to post an update.


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## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

putty said:


> I have a Briggs and Stratton 21M314-0121-E1 with a 797090 5 amp Alternator that I pulled out for a 10 amp one, I got a 794812 Flywheel


The flywheel on my Toro is the same so hopefully the 5 amp alt (797090) will fix my issue. That is the alt I also had in my Ariens Deluxe 28 and had no issues with a dimming bulb.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Gee this is a great thread, because I repowered my machine with a Briggs And Stratton 21m214 - 0137E1 070807YD 342cc 15.5gt. I always wondered if I could add lights and hand warmers with out any problems if I wanted to.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Kielbasa said:


> Gee this is a great thread, because I repowered my machine with a Briggs And Stratton 21m214 - 0137E1 070807YD 342cc 15.5gt. I always wondered if I could add lights and hand warmers with out any problems if I wanted to.


According to extensive research over the last 3 minutes, your engine should have alternator PN 698230 which has a white connector with one red wire and one black wire. Output 2-4 amps DC, 5 amps AC, 14VAC unregulated.

You should be able to run both a light and grips, if the grips don't mind AC power and don't draw over 5 amps, which would probably result is too hot anyway. Lights, you have 24 watts to play with (assuming the 2 amp rating is based on small magnets which your flywheel has, according to even MORE extensive research (actually just a different page on the same parts site). 

If you get really ambitious, They have a 40 or 60 amp belt driven alternator you could probably put on there with some engineering tweaks, and then add a stereo system, power locks and power windows.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

:facepalm_zpsdj194qh Yeah. I like it... than I could blast the polkas while I'm clearing. :wavetowel2:

Thanks for the information. 



skutflut said:


> According to extensive research over the last 3 minutes, your engine should have alternator PN 698230 which has a white connector with one red wire and one black wire. Output 2-4 amps DC, 5 amps AC, 14VAC unregulated.
> 
> You should be able to run both a light and grips, if the grips don't mind AC power and don't draw over 5 amps, which would probably result is too hot anyway. Lights, you have 24 watts to play with (assuming the 2 amp rating is based on small magnets which your flywheel has, according to even MORE extensive research (actually just a different page on the same parts site).
> 
> If you get really ambitious, They have a 40 or 60 amp belt driven alternator you could probably put on there with some engineering tweaks, and then add a stereo system, power locks and power windows.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Kielbasa said:


> :facepalm_zpsdj194qh Yeah. I like it... than I could blast the polkas while I'm clearing. :wavetowel2:
> 
> Thanks for the information.


Make sure you roll up the power windows when you blast the music...:icon-hgtg:


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## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

I have success!! I received the new alt/stator p/n: 797090 and installed it. However it came with Ariens style plug. I could have just cut it off and spliced but instead went back to Ebay and bought a new Ariens headlamp harness for $10. I cut my console harness plug and spliced on the Ariens style inside the wire loom so I could have standard factory connectors on both. 

I made a test run and the headlamp dims ever-so-slightly that if I wasn't actually looking for it I would not have noticed. The grips got warm but definitely not not. However I did not run it long enough to give a fair assessment. I may try it with the headlamp unplugged as others have suggested to see if they get warmer. If not then we are good to go and that is it. If they do get warmer then I need to go back and try a different config. No snow in the near future so it may be a while before I get a full test.

A couple of questions with my current setup:
1. My Toro setup had the neg/gnd lead of the handlebar harness attached to a engine mounting bolt and the positive lead coming directly off the alt/stator. This new DC only alt/stator has a neg and positive lead so I no longer have my handlebar harness going to the engine mounting bolt. Both pos and neg leads of the handlebar harness are going to the pos/neg alt/stator leads directly. Do I need to ground anything?
2. I no longer have a diode in line with my positive lead. The Toro alt had a diode on the pos lead. However this Ariens alt does not. Should I have a diode somewhere in the system? Everything seems to be working fine and this alt is DC only. However my original 2amp DC only alt had a diode on the pos lead.


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## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

Issue not resolved. I test ran my setup again and the grips did not get very warm. I measured the output of the stator and I am only getting 10.4vac full throttle. I am not using a diode with my latest config but with this low of ac voltage I do not believe it is worth testing further with this stator.

I m going back to the dual circuit stator that my dealer recommended: 696742. I spliced it back together and heat shrinked the splices. 
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It is rated at 2-4a DC, 5a AC. I am planning on using the DC for the headlight if I stay with the factory 18w bulb, and use the AC for the heated grips if they will run effectively on AC.

However if I go the route of LED, I will use the AC and run it to the full wave rectifier that I already purchased, and then to the new LEDs which I have not yet purchased. Then I will run the heated grips off the DC.

Not sure which route I am going to go but I am going back to the dual circuit stator. I will post an update.


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## hfjeff (Jan 24, 2016)

*Final update. Complete!*

I have achieved monumental success! Thank you to DennisP and Skutflut and others who made recommendations. I went back to the original dual circuit replacement alt/stator that my dealer sold me for this project. I wired up the light to the DC output and the grips to the AC output. The light is now even brighter and does not even flicker a bit when the grips are turned on. The grips get warm quickly and I will not need them on all the time. What a night and day difference. With the single output stator I could hardly feel any heat from the grips. The same when I was using this dual circuit stator, but only using the DC output and had the AC taped off. I updated my materials list to reflect the successful stator part number in my writeup in the Toro Forum. Thanks again and I can now put this one to rest....until I move to LED lights this summer.


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