# Model Number 536.918100 Fuel line replacement



## JBoutsideKC

Picked up a used Snowblower tonight that seems to be in great condition and runs very well. The only owner previously was meticulous enough about the snowblower that he installed a galvanized nipple in the drain plug for the oil so that it extends out a quarter inch past the rear tire. 

My issue: have googled and read many posts including here. I do have a gas leak from where the fuel line is clamped on to the nipple on the bottom of the plastic gas tank. The fuel line has a split. I tried cutting off just enough of the gas line and reclamping but I don't have enough gas line left. I am unsure where the gas line connects inside the Tecumseh 4hp motor either. ANY IDEAS? splice the line and add another piece or replace entire fuel line?

Thanks in advance, really enjoyed reading posts and supportive responses, appears to be a great forum.


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## Blue Hill

If it is in bad enough shape that it has one split, you should likely change out the whole line. Not expensive and will save you having trouble when you really need to blow snow.

Larry


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## Shryp

The proper fix would be to replace the whole fuel line. The proper way to replace the whole fuel line would be to remove the pull start cover and route the new line under there where the old line is.

See videos:
donyboy73 - YouTube

That being said, you could run a new line around the outside of the engine. It will require a bit more line and look stupid and will have the chance of getting snagged, but it should work as long as you keep it level going across.

The other option is splicing like you already mentioned. You could get a coupling or you could get a fuel filter or shut off valve and use that as a coupling. You are still going to need another piece of fuel line anyway to go between the tank and your coupling.

When you get the fuel line it would be best to just go to an auto parts store or order online if you are ordering enough stuff to offset the shipping cost. Don't get the special Tecumseh or sears fuel line, just get generic 1/4" inside diameter plain fuel line. It should cost you about $1 per foot. 4HP is kind of small, but I think it will still be 1/4", might want to take an old piece with you just to be sure.

If you decide to replace the whole thing be careful where it attaches to the carb. The carbs usually just have a plastic fitting that is pressed in that the fuel line attaches to. Best to remove the clamp and then put a slice in the hose to get it off so you don't break off the plastic nipple.


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## JBoutsideKC

*Thank you Blue Hill and Shryp*

I think I have enough time I should probably do it properly. It may be a bit of a task removing the pull rope housing, but again, doing it right the first time would be key. Finally got the pic's to post.


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## Shryp

Wow, that thing looks like it is in really nice shape.

It shouldn't be too hard to get that engine apart to replace the line.

Pull the choke knob off.
Remove the 2 screws on the outside of the carb and remove the carb heater box.
Remove the 2 screws holding the electric start plug.
Remove the top 2 screws on the recoil housing.
Remove the bottom 2 screws on the recoil housing.

In theory you should remove the flywheel too, but in practice there should be enough room to fish the new line through without that. Maybe even use something to connect the new and old lines together before you pull the old line out and use it to pull the new in at the same time.

Take note of the wires under the carb box as they are probably connected to the one recoil cover bolt.


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## Colored Eggs

I have a suggestion as well. I bought a pipe splice from lowes when I had to replace fuel line on a John Deere Garden Tractor. I was able to put the splice in the old hose and connect the new hose to the other side and was able to pull it most of the way through. It did eventually pop off the splice as there was nothing holding it together but the barbs. Here is an example of what I'm talking about.
Shop Watts 1/4-in Barb Fitting at Lowes.com


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## micah68kj

It's going to take about an hour of your time to do it the correct way. Follow SHRYP's directions. While you're in there you should also replace the primer line. Don't ask me how I know this..
Great looking machine you've got.


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## JBoutsideKC

Thanks for the input MICAH and the directions SHRYP. COLORED EGGS a friend of mine was telling me exactly the same thing last night with the barb. 

I was considering trying to fish the new fuel line by connecting it to the old so I didn't have to break open the "housing" but I am sure there are points in there where it's anchored or "squeeze spots" to hold it, so I am thinking I will try and utilize grasshopper patience and take things apart.

FUNNY side story:I have been acquiring some things since we have 100+ year old pin oaks and the GF's parents live 6 blocks away and time for them to stop doing their steep drive and yard, so I have been having some fun. I sold a Billy Goat Lawn Vac yesterday after finding my new Honda mower does about the same work of leaves and nuts. 

Here is the funny, you should have seen the guys face who bought the Billy Goat when he saw my snowblower. He saw the 10 inch impeller and the shape of it and had to have it. He was $100 over what I paid for it right off the bat. As tempting as it was I held strong and did not sell.


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## HCBPH

*Blower*

Follow the instructions and replace both the gas and primer lines. Now would be a good time to add a shutoff valve at the tank also.

That's a good little blower and in great shape from what I can see, I've bought and rebuild several of those and their 5 hp brothers. That gear transmission is about as solid as they come IMO. Make sure the auger rakes aren't rusted onto the auger shaft and you'll be set for many a year of blowing.


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## JBoutsideKC

HCBPH said:


> Follow the instructions and replace both the gas and primer lines. Now would be a good time to add a shutoff valve at the tank also.
> 
> That's a good little blower and in great shape from what I can see, I've bought and rebuild several of those and their 5 hp brothers. That gear transmission is about as solid as they come IMO. Make sure the auger rakes aren't rusted onto the auger shaft and you'll be set for many a year of blowing.


Thank you. I did try and add a shut off valve at the tank, but probably need to investigate others as the one I found at my local Advanced Auto Parts is long enough that it is difficult to fit in the tolerance/space between the bottom of the tank and the starter without crimping the line behind or in front of the shut off. Tried shortening either line, but I believe the 1/4" inside diameter line I bought is thicker than the line that was on it orginally.


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## Shryp

You probably need a 90 degree shutoff. Some have the in/out on opposite sides and some have then making a 90 degree turn.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/smallengine/smengfuel/smengfuelvalves.html


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## JBoutsideKC

Shryp said:


> You probably need a 90 degree shutoff. Some have the in/out on opposite sides and some have then making a 90 degree turn.
> Fuel Valves | Small Engine Parts | MFG Supply


Totally agree and thank you Shryp, I just hadn't been able to find one locally. I live in a southern suburb of KC on the kansas side, and honestly we stink any more with small engine repair and parts. One of the biggest and oldest just shut down. But I am sure that is the case in many parts of the US


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## JBoutsideKC

*Thanks to everybody and Shryp's "in theory"*



Shryp said:


> Wow, that thing looks like it is in really nice shape.
> 
> It shouldn't be too hard to get that engine apart to replace the line.
> 
> Pull the choke knob off.
> Remove the 2 screws on the outside of the carb and remove the carb heater box.
> Remove the 2 screws holding the electric start plug.
> Remove the top 2 screws on the recoil housing.
> Remove the bottom 2 screws on the recoil housing.
> 
> In theory you should remove the flywheel too, but in practice there should be enough room to fish the new line through without that. Maybe even use something to connect the new and old lines together before you pull the old line out and use it to pull the new in at the same time.
> 
> Take note of the wires under the carb box as they are probably connected to the one recoil cover bolt.


Had some time over lunch today and fixed my fuel line. I have a 90 degree shut off valve en route. Shryp was correct with his "in theory" part above as duct tape was my friend today. See attached pics.(pics in reverse order, my bad)


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## Shryp

Looks good. I take it everything worked out and it is now running fine with no leaks?


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## JBoutsideKC

Shryp said:


> Looks good. I take it everything worked out and it is now running fine with no leaks?


Doesn't leak a drop Shryp, and purring like a kitten. Still some to do in greasing areas like the area where the outlet nozzle rotates and the crank handle that rotates the nozzle, but other than that, I am ready for snow. Also 1 project down so I can do some hunting this weekend.


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## Shryp

Be careful greasing the chute. One time I thought it would be a great idea to grease mine and I greased it up so well that the snow would spin the chute around on its own.


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