# Removing oil drain plug from Squall 2100



## bdcs64

Hi

I am having a difficult time getting the oil drain plug on my Troy-Bilt Squall 2100 (model 31AS2T5F711) loose.

It is a square-ish bolt end. Seems to be in-between sizes and I am afraid to round it off.

Does any one have any idea what would be size//type of socket or wrench is best to use?

Thanks


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## UNDERTAKER

bdcs64 said:


> Hi
> 
> I am having a difficult time getting the oil drain plug on my Troy-Bilt Squall 2100 (model 31AS2T5F711) loose.
> 
> It is a square-ish bolt end. Seems to be in-between sizes and I am afraid to round it off.
> 
> Does any one have any idea what would be size//type of socket or wrench is best to use?
> 
> Thanks


 * Use a 12 point socket or wrench end on there. I am not sure what size yours is. more than likely it will be a 5/8. Anyhoo, ALOHA from the Paradise City.:smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027:*


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## UNDERTAKER

* After seeing that pic you just might have to go the vise grip route. then get a new plug.*


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## RedOctobyr

That's what I was thinking. Clamp some big Vise-grips on there as tightly as you can (near the base of the jaws, not the tips), and see if you can get it to move. 



Worst-case, you could grind 2 flats on it, to give you a place for an adjustable wrench. 



But I'd start with the simple stuff. I'll bet that really-tight Vise-grips will do it. Assuming there isn't thread-locker on it or anything.


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## crazzywolfie

since pretty much all new engines are metric i would say it is likely a 10mm. i would try putting a 6 point 10mm socket on. if that is too sloppy you could try hammering a 3/8" socket on it or keep going back an forth between metric and standard till you get on that you can hammer on tight. you are also best to give the ratchet a tap counter clock wise with a hammer to hopefully shock it free. i would use visegrip as a last resort.


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## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to SBF bdcs64

What you want is an eight point socket if you can find someone to borrow one from. Or buy one if you have to. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-H...s/Metric/8-point/N-5yc1vZc24uZ1z0sc32Z1z0sjxy or https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Drive-Piece-Square-Socket/dp/B01N9GNM0F/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1531282506&sr=8-5&keywords=8pt+socket+set
There are a number of suppliers.

That would be for use on the replacement. Yours looks to be beyond trying a socket. I think you're into vice-grip and a hammer territory.

.


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## gibbs296

Or something like this, but use a wrench on the tools hex portion...https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Max-Impact-Steel-Extractor-Set-5-Piece-DWABEXTRACT5/300703144


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## JLawrence08648

Pipe wrench! Works for round pipes! Serrated jaws, jaws form a "V", loose then clamps around it then tightening. Perfect, it will work.

I have the set that Gibbs296 posted, they work, had to use them a few times, once was on a car lug nut that was rounded.


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## Grunt

+1 ^ on the pipe wrench. Then go to your local hardware store and buy a 1/8" NPT pipe plug for a lot less than this.


https://www.partstree.com/parts/troy-bilt/parts/951-12514a/


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## JLawrence08648

Grunt said:


> +1 ^ on the pipe wrench. Then go to your local hardware store and buy a 1/8" NPT pipe plug.


1/8" NPT? Sure? The threads for a 1/8" are really fine that's why I think it might be 1/4" NPT.


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## RedOctobyr

I agree that 1/4" NPT seems more likely than 1/8". But regardless, this is the easy part. 

Once it's removed, bring it to the store with you, and use it to find the correct size threads. 

I have installed a short length of pipe to my engine's drain port. It's a pipe "nipple", it has the same male threads at both ends. Then I put a female cap on the end. The extra length means it doesn't drain onto the machine during an oil change, which helps with the mess. Just remove the female cap, while holding the main part stationary with pliers, if needed.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Or for seven bucks from a dealer you can get the right plug and an extension that might make it easier to drain in the future. https://www.troybilt.com/equipment/...urlRequestType=Base&langId=-1&catalogId=14102

Or just the OEM drain plug: MTD Oil Drain Plug #MTD-951-12514


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## Kiss4aFrog

I'd be a little concerned about screwing a NPT plug into a metric threaded hole unless you prepped it first by drilling and tapping. I copied the following. At the bottom is a link to some thread changers and that seems a great idea and cheap.


That Drainzit looks like a great idea. But it seems a little expensive at $20.

The drain plug thread on the Predator is a M10-1.25 straight machine thread.

I copied the following. I'd be a little concerned just screwing a NPT plug into a metric thread and being able to have it seal properly and also to be able to remove it in the future.

_Carl has a good idea on re-tapping it for a 1/4 NPT as he did on his Greyhound.

But ...You need to make sure there is enough wall thickness to open it up!

The tap drill for a 1/4 NPT is 7/16 and the OD of the thread is .540.

As an alternative you could use an adaptor that goes from the Male M10-1.25 to 1/8 NPT (or similar) as the one shown in the link. From there you can put an elbow and appropriate length nipple on it. Or use a hose barb and put on a rubber hose like the DrainZit concept. Such adaptors are often found at a good auto parts store or a plumbing supply.

Just some ideas that are a bit more economical and allow you to optimize it for your application.

http://www.brakeconnect.com/product-...hread-changers_


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## UNDERTAKER

* Slap a Drainzit on it and call it a day well Done!!!!!!!!!!!!*


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## Grunt

The Partstree description describes it as 1/8" NPT nipple. :icon-shrug:


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## DriverRider

bdcs64 said:


> Hi
> 
> I am having a difficult time getting the oil drain plug on my Troy-Bilt Squall 2100 (model 31AS2T5F711) loose.
> It is a square-ish bolt end. Seems to be in-between sizes and I am afraid to round it off.
> Does any one have any idea what would be size//type of socket or wrench is best to use?
> Thanks



That is bunged up and looks like it was a male square pipe plug fitting which would have taken an 8 point socket.


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## UNDERTAKER

*I Wonder if they will let us know what became of that issue. or did they get it oot of there and forgot to check back in. :smiley-confused013::facepalm_zpsdj194qh*


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## gibbs296

Or make sure it is out of fuel, find a couple of strong buddies, remove the oil fill plug, and tip her upside down so the oil runs out of the fill plug hole. Please, don't judge me.


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## RedOctobyr

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I'd be a little concerned about screwing a NPT plug into a metric threaded hole unless you prepped it first by drilling and tapping. I copied the following. At the bottom is a link to some thread changers and that seems a great idea and cheap.
> _
> http://www.brakeconnect.com/product-...hread-changers_



That link isn't working for me. 



I would not use an NPT plug in a metric hole, nor would I re-cut the threads to NPT. One risks leaks, the other risks engine damage, including from getting metal chips into the crankcase. 



My vote is to find a plug with the correct threads, or simpler yet (if they can't be matched), just buy the original drain plug. Otherwise a simple problem could become more expensive. 





gibbs296 said:


> Or make sure it is out of fuel, find a couple of strong buddies, remove the oil fill plug, and tip her upside down so the oil runs out of the fill plug hole. Please, don't judge me.



Oh, I'm judging you, alright  I'm assuming you'll make your buddies hold the machine upside-down while the oil gradually drains. But hey, it's still a lot cheaper than flying it to Australia, so it can just stand on its head! 



I was kind of flabbergasted the first time I came across an engine without a drain plug. I think it was a push mower, you had to tip it over to drain it. A friend's pressure washer is the same way. It strikes me as awkward and clumsy. But I do understand that at least it means they don't need to find a way to accommodate access to a drain plug, in the design of the machine that the engine is attached to.


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## Nhpyro

I agree ...Beyond the 8 point socket for those square heads..Vice grips are the way to go with this situation...Unfortunately the head is stripped..

Here are a couple more of extractors I also found in that tool box that might help on one of those days when there is no room for the vice grips.....

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT...yHandTools-_-1000224011:IRWIN&CAWELAID=&kpid=

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CI3W5LfqqdwCFcdmwQod4IsF9A


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