# Ariens 1028 with wobbly Impeller



## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

Hello .


I am new to the form, so will provide as much info as I can. I have happily owned the 1028 for ~13 years. Works great on the heavy NL wet snow. I have done all my own maintenance over the years however it basically consisted on changing belts and other minor adjustments.


this issue is bigger and I'm not sure how to attack it yet.


This past storm, my 1028 ate a shrub and I have encountered some serious wobble/motion in the impeller since. I noticed when the auger was engaged, the blower worked fine, but once I released the auger handle, the impeller never stopped but instead continued to rotate and made loud grinding awful noises as it scraped along the inside on the blower/funnel.


Obviously something nasty was going on and the break for the auger was no longer functioning either.


I had a look at the belts and did notice that the belt finger guide on the left side of the blower had actually cracked off and fell to the bottom of the blower.




The auger break and belt pulley worked fine however the impeller and attached belt drive assembly were very loose and in fact it would wobble away from the auger belt brake and therefore wouldn't stop rotating.


the impeller blade edges are all shiny and worn down from impacting the inside of the blower funnel.


So, the impeller is extremely loose, causing damage to the impeller blades and the blower in general. Not sure if its related to the belt finger/guide breaking as well, or just a by product.


Any advice or where to start would be appreciated.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Most likely needs the Impeller Bearing Replaced. Grab the impeller shaft, and if you can wiggle it, it needs a bearing. Common for a 10+ year old Blower.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Agree with Jack... Not sure what year yours is, but guessing about 2004 from you description. 

parts list is here

apache.ariens.com/manuals/02497100D.pdf

Take a look at this video for a general idea how to do the job. Not exactly your machine, but the same general idea.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Im5pU1yMiYQ

While you are at it, I would check all the other bearings as well, since they are the same age and subject to the odd shrub and newspaper. Good news is Ariens parts are usually not difficult to get.


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## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

Great video -thanks. It sure sounds like the bearings. I will take the unit apart and have a look. Not sure why the belt/guide finger broke, but likely related to the same issue.


thanks again.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

bernieb said:


> Great video -thanks. It sure sounds like the bearings. I will take the unit apart and have a look. Not sure why the belt/guide finger broke, but likely related to the same issue.
> 
> 
> thanks again.


Not sure what you mean by belt guide/finger.. are you referring to the belt keeper, near the engine pulley which is supposed to keep the belt on the upper pulley and prevent it from being tossed off when the belt is slack, or is it part of the idler pulley/brake bracket you are referring to?

You might want to post some pictures to photobucket and put the links in your next message so other can see the parts you are talking about. You have to do the photobucket thing until you have some minimum number of posts here after which you can post photos directly into the forum asl long as you use the full message editor, which has an attachment icon. The lite editor doesn't (least I don't think it does, havent used it in a long time


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## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii551/bernieb7/Ariens_zpskybku2ij.jpg


Item 43 is what snapped off. It is the belt keeper.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

bernieb said:


> http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii551/bernieb7/Ariens_zpskybku2ij.jpg
> 
> 
> Item 43 is what snapped off. It is the belt keeper.


Hmm, is the mounting hole on the block damaged? Did you find the bolt that holds it? If so, is it bent?Any gashes or wear showing on the belt keeper? Where did the keeper break?

Those things are supposed to be about 1/16" from the belt in normal operation, (your measurement may vary) so there is no room for the belt to come off the engine pulley, but no serious rubbing of the belt against the keeper either.

Is it possible that you forgot to tighten it up last time you changed the belts? If so, vibration could have shaken it loose and it could have ended up in amongst the drive train. Guess its a question of what happened first.


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## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

The bolt was still firmly attached. the keeper broke right at the connection with the nut. there is some scarring on the outside of the drive belt for sure. Also the belt is drum tight, i.e., it will be difficult to replace, although I haven't given it a good look over yet. Still trying to get the bearings out. They are shot for sure, but I need to get a gear puller to get them out.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

bernieb said:


> The bolt was still firmly attached. the keeper broke right at the connection with the nut. there is some scarring on the outside of the drive belt for sure. Also the belt is drum tight, i.e., it will be difficult to replace, although I haven't given it a good look over yet. Still trying to get the bearings out. They are shot for sure, but I need to get a gear puller to get them out.


The front belt is the auger belt and it shouldn't be too tight. I should be riding loose on the front pulley and only tighten up when you engage the auger lever. Once you get that bearing off (maybe try heating it up some) and you get a new one in there, things should line up properly again and the correct belt should go on pretty easily. If not, then something is holding up the parade and needs to be found and fixed. 

Be careful that the brake pad on end of the idler pulley bracket is not sitting between the belt and the pulley, it should be contacting the back of the belt when its all back together. If that brake is between the belt and the pulley, that could cause the belt to be tight, and will tear up the belt as well. Maybe post some more pictures of where you are as well as to make sure you have pics of how it is so when you put it back together you have references.


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## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

Just to clarify, it was the traction drive belt that was tight, not the auger belt. I have changes it now, so should be fine. Wow, removing the hub was not what I expected. After letting it stew in penetrating oil for a couple days, I tried a 3 fingered gear puller to remove the hub. Results attached. looks like $50 for a new hub and try to get someone with a torch to cut off the old.... and then onto the bearings....
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii551/bernieb7/IMG_20170201_065153_zpsg9yldy6o.jpg


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

bernieb said:


> Just to clarify, it was the traction drive belt that was tight, not the auger belt. I have changes it now, so should be fine. Wow, removing the hub was not what I expected. After letting it stew in penetrating oil for a couple days, I tried a 3 fingered gear puller to remove the hub. Results attached. looks like $50 for a new hub and try to get someone with a torch to cut off the old.... and then onto the bearings....
> http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii551/bernieb7/IMG_20170201_065153_zpsg9yldy6o.jpg



Did you loosen the two set screws in the hub?


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I had a similar issue, except the pulley had no hub on a 2009 ish Ariens, Pully was cut off with a angle grinder with the cutoff wheel, just be carful to not hit the shaft, once close put a chisle in the cut and try and split it off. Once that was off I smoother the shaft with a brass wire wheel on the angle grinder and the bearing itself came off pretty easy, Check out eBay and jacks small engines for the parts, Ariens at least you can get the whole pulley and adapter for around $40-$45 so just the adapter should be much less.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Have Good Used Hubs Available, $40 shipped. Retails for $60+ PM if interested. I use a ball joint fork and hammer on the tough ones.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

Three-Jaw Puller Set 3 Pc

i drill a tiny hole a few millimeters deep in the center of the shaft and use the smallest of the 3 jaw pullers to pull the hub off using my milwaukee 1/4 impact driver. usually they dont put up a big fight


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## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

Yes - I did remove the set screws. I used a 3/4 inch ratchet on the 3 jaw puller. Probably should have went with the impact gun to try and shake it loose. I picked up a new Hub for 50 + tax cnd at a local supplier. Didn't want to wait to order one in. (Didn't come with set screws or attachment screws! - but can reuse the others) . Later today I will visit a buddy with an acetylene torch and will be in business. Thanks for all the feedback - great forum.


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## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

Update: The Hub was heated, but still wouldn't come off. We had to use an angle grinder in the end. New bearings and hub went in fine and seemed to work well. Couple things during the test drive afterwards.

1) I noticed the auger would continue to rotate freely after I released the handle. The auger belt was moving around and still with enough play to rub up against the new belt guide finger. So - thats why that finger broke after a while i guess. Now, I know the auger should stop on its own when the handle is released. The brake on the pulley (although worn alot) does push against the pulley assembly as it should , but just doesn't stop the pulley/belt/auger from rotating. I moved back the adjustable pulley on the belt, to create more slack in the auger belt... still doesn't help.. Do I need to beef up the brake pad on that auger brake? Any other ideas? 

2) Just a minor thing, but I find it hard to adjust the speed. !st gear is either quicker than it should be, or if I decrease the setting the reverse 1st gear is slow. Hard to get a happy medium there. This is just a minor annoyance. May priority is Item 1 for obvious reasons.

thx again for any suggestions.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

I would check the auger clutch cable to make sure its got some slack in it. If its too tight, it has the auger idler bracket partially engaged, which might move the idler onto the belt and it also removes pressure from the brake pad. 

Also, was the bracket return spring in good shape and the correct spring? If the cable adjustment is good and the spring is good, then maybe the brake pad is worn too far. Should be pressure on that brake pad from the spring to keep that auger still when the clutch is not engaged. Idler pulley should not be contacting the belt or just barely when clutch is released. Is it possible you have the wrong belt on there, (too short)?


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

The belt keepers help lift the belt off the pulley when the tension is relaxed. They tend to squeeze/pinch the belt shape and lift it off the upper pulley. Without them, the widening of the relaxed belt shape allows the upper pulley to grab the belt as gravity allows the belt to settle into the top of the pulley. I've no idea if that explanation makes any sense, but replace your missing/broken belt keepers. They do more than just keep the belt from falling off.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

Bernie, looking back at your initial opening of this thread (#1) there is a mention of self maintenance and belt changes. There's no mention of what belt you currently have. I can't say it more about the oem belts as replacements as then you have the exact belt length needed. A different oem so called belt may be off in the circumference part and that causes many of the issues you're experiencing.


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## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

The belt part numbers come from the snowblower manual, so I assume they are correct. Although the original drive belt # was discontinued some years ago and replaced by another #.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

bernieb said:


> 2) Just a minor thing, but I find it hard to adjust the speed. !st gear is either quicker than it should be, or if I decrease the setting the reverse 1st gear is slow. Hard to get a happy medium there. This is just a minor annoyance. May priority is Item 1 for obvious reasons.
> 
> thx again for any suggestions.


If you adjust the speed lever to reduce the forward speed in 1st gear, the reverse speeds should increase.

The speed selector moves the friction rubber wheel position with respect to the friction aluminum drive disk. The closer the friction wheel is to the centre, the slower that speed will be.

Try setting up the speed selector in the highest forward speed position and see where the rubber wheel hits the aluminum drive disk. Should be near the outside edge.

Then pull the speed selector back to first gear and see where the rubber wheel is. Should be on the same side as in top speed, but close to the centre of the aluminum drive disk. You can fiddle with it by adjusting the speed selector, but don't let 1st gear put the rubber drive wheel too close to centre of the aluminum disk.

Then try it in reverse low speed and make sure its on the opposite side of the aluminum drive disk, (past the centre point of the aluminum disk) and NOT dead centre of the disk which will be no speed at all, just grinding off the rubber.


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## bernieb (Jan 30, 2017)

AS an update. I now know my snowblower a lot better...thanks to all for the help.

I put on a new auger brake pad and adjusted the idler pulley. now auger stops as it should when handle is released. The old brake pad was worn to the steel in the middle where it normally would apply resistance to the pulley. I tweaked the speed selector as per the comments and it now runs as expected. Very cool. Thanks Skutflut and others again.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

bernieb said:


> AS an update. I now know my snowblower a lot better...thanks to all for the help.
> 
> I put on a new auger brake pad and adjusted the idler pulley. now auger stops as it should when handle is released. The old brake pad was worn to the steel in the middle where it normally would apply resistance to the pulley. I tweaked the speed selector as per the comments and it now runs as expected. Very cool. Thanks Skutflut and others again.[/QUOTE
> 
> Glad to hear that it's working properly now. Now that you know the machine so much better, perhaps you should invite it out to dinner... :wink:


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