# Ariens 1336 DLE Pro, 926501 repower ? Now with pics !!!



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I have the above snowblower, since new. Engine blew up. Thinking of re powering it with the brand new HF 459cc engine. 

Has anyone else done a HF re power on one of these ? If so, a link to the thread would be greatly appreciated. 

I am extremely technologically challenged. Not even sure how to do links or post pics. Thanks so much.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

thats a nice engine


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## Homesteader (Jan 12, 2019)

New mounting bolts/holes are easy enough to fabricate. The hardest part might be getting the pully off of the engine shaft if it has seized on there. Other than that if the shaft height is different you might have to buy a couple belts until you find a size that works well ...and then buy a lot more belts to have in reserve. 25ft lbs of torque is no joke. You'll definitely need to add significate weight to the front of your machine to counter balance the increased weight of the new engine - maybe 30+ lbs. Have fun! let us know how it goes.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

It's really not overkill for my situation. Driveway is directly against the house on my side, neighbors house is only about 6' away on the other side & has a leaky basement. So they don't want me putting snow there. So even when we get only 6" of snow, I end up with 4' of constantly reblown concrete snow at end of driveway ---- in addition to what the snow plow leaves. I need all the power, blowing distance and tons per hour I can get in a walk behind.


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## Homesteader (Jan 12, 2019)

2AriensGuy said:


> It's really not overkill for my situation. Driveway is directly against the house on my side, neighbors house is only about 6' away on the other side & has a leaky basement. So they don't want me putting snow there. So even when we get only 6" of snow, I end up with 4' of constantly reblown concrete snow at end of driveway ---- in addition to what the snow plow leaves. I need all the power, blowing distance and tons per hour I can get in a walk behind.


I never said it was overkill. I think its a great idea for the size of your machine. Either that or the 420 depending on availability. I was just letting you know what was involved with the repowers I've done to my machines. I didn't post a thread so I just let you know what I did. Especially the belts that I've shredded more after repowering. I lived in Boston for a long time and across the street, over the fence and into and small yard was the only place to put the snow. So I completely understand the need for throwing distance and power. I recently built my dad who still lives in Boston an Ariens ST1024 924117 repowered with a Tecumseh OHSK130, the exact engine I believe blew up on you, thats a 13HP to 24" bucket. A 16HP to a 36" bucket isn't overkill.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Homesteader makes some excellent points..........That Preditor is a new engine so not much experience out there with it. However, The Preditor line has a good reputation for what ever that is worth. The preditor is not a snow ready engine. Have you looked at other snow ready engines? Like on this website and others like it?









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I am not trying to talk you out of the Preditor. But it is not a snow engine and it will require at least a jet change and I would recommend shrouding for the linkages. Not everyone does that but I have found it very beneficial. It is just extra work on top of everything else. You are looking at $450 for the Preditor. You may find a snow engine with a bit more HP than 13, that will be easier to install. Even if it is more money it may be cheaper in the end. You need to consider what else may have to change like the belts and pulleys. If you get an engine with the same out put shaft size that can be a huge savings. In cost and labor. I am tying to get you to think about the whole scheme of things so you can make a better decision for you. Have you installed an impellar kit? That helps with distance and snow moving efficiency.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

If I had a 36" I'd be looking at the Predator Vtwin my self.
Yes, it's expensive, but that blower isn't exactly small.

I'm running a 420 on a 24" and I feel it's perfect for me. Certainly not overpowered.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I don't have exact measurements for shaft height and shaft length but it is a 1" diameter shaft & so is the predator. I looked at a few snow engines online. Anywhere from $1300 to $1999 !!!! Too much money for me. I absolutely love and appreciate all the input. I'll be 60 next year & am not an engineer. Just a retired guy looking to save some money, have some fun and recycle an awesome blower. I have no welder either. 

I'm waiting till summer to do this project. My fingers work better then. Lol . I am glad that the Pro versions have 2 auger drive belts. Even more important when upgraded hp is involved. That new 459cc Predator is 15.8 hp.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

If you don't want to go too far and spend too much time, I'd take the Predator over the Tecumseh even if both were new.

Also, the spec on the Predator engines is a bit strange. They say it's gross which is why it's always higher than Honda's equivalent as Honda is using Net.
But, on a snowblower we don't use an air filter and the carb is jetted richer, so...........

I'm betting there's a good chance that Predator 459 setup on a snowblower properly would actually be a healthy 16HP.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Probably, plus there are already some parts from an aftermarket company that will fit it, and I am sure that there are more hot rod parts coming for it. Just check out Red Beards Garage on U tube. 

The Predator engines are like Frank's Hot Sauce ---- people use that s#*! on everything !!! Lol Go carts, bikes, trikes, agricultural applications, etc..


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, I stopped by my local HF today and took some measurements. It seems that all the shafts are the same. 1" in diameter and a useable shaft length of 2 & 13/16". Only thing I couldn't get was the center height of the shaft from the deck. All the engines were mounted on these very unstable bases, which were mounted to the shelves. So if there is a difference in shaft height, I suppose it could be made up with a plate under the engine or larger or smaller pulley sheaves.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

2AriensGuy said:


> So, I stopped by my local HF today and took some measurements. It seems that all the shafts are the same. 1" in diameter and a useable shaft length of 2 & 13/16". Only thing I couldn't get was the center height of the shaft from the deck. All the engines were mounted on these very unstable bases, which were mounted to the shelves. So if there is a difference in shaft height, I suppose it could be made up with a plate under the engine or larger or smaller pulley sheaves.


why do that just get the right length belt and use any pulley you want


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

The height of most of them is in the pdf book online. I didn't see it for the new one but it's out there for the various 420s.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

1132le said:


> why do that just get the right length belt and use any pulley you want


I was pondering the idea of more distance. If  the new engine shaft is slightly lower, I was thinking of a 1/2" bigger pully, for more impeller speed, which I think would turn the impeller faster ? I guess that's also provided the engine has enough hp & torque ? I am certainly no expert. This will be my first repower.

Your probably right though, I should stick to stock first & see how it works.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I was able to drive for an hour 1 way & pick up the 459cc motor for the repower. Caught it on sale and got the 2 year replacement warranty too. The fun begins when the weather warms up a bit.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

2AriensGuy said:


> I was able to drive for an hour 1 way & pick up the 459cc motor for the repower. Caught it on sale and got the 2 year replacement warranty too. The fun begins when the weather warms up a bit.


nice whats its going on?
ive thought about putting that on my st824 i put a 10 hp flatty on it it has a kit


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

It's going on my 1336 dle pro. Supposed to be 15.8 hp & 25 lb ft of torque. If that's true, it should be about 20% more power than the 13 hp Tecumseh.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

2AriensGuy said:


> It's going on my 1336 dle pro. Supposed to be 15.8 hp & 25 lb ft of torque. If that's true, it should be about 20% more power than the 13 hp Tecumseh.


no no way more
the ohsk130 great motor had it on my 1332 its 17 lb feet and a real 10.5 hp
you are 50% more torque


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

The 13hp ohv Tecumseh, while a great engine, put out noticeably less power than the Briggs and LCT 420cc motors. That new predator should be killer! 👍


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I'm hoping so. Plus if I still need more power, there are hop up performance parts in the works already, from what I hear.

The V-twin is about 30 lbs heavier than the 459. The 459 is just about equal to stock weight and size.

The 459cc also has a forged crank.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Just came across this vid on YouTube.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Looks a bit unbalanced. Hard to handle. 36 might be too much for me. I better stick to a 24. With the predator of course


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

not very impressive for that machine motor never labored he needs a kit and a 25 lb weight kit
at 3825 his impeller rpm is around 1090
he needs a bigger pulley for that motor
my 32 threw 50 feet plus he was 45 feet maybe
great install great machine he needs a 3.25 pulley


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

Tony-chicago said:


> Looks a bit unbalanced. Hard to handle. 36 might be too much for me. I better stick to a 24. With the predator of course


My 24 with the 6.5 Predator is a really impressive machine this year. Best $200 bucks I've spent in a long time for a great result.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Regardless, for me, it's a done deal. I already have the 459cc engine & a 2 yr replacement warranty. The extra weight doesn't bother me. I can offset it with weight. I bought it for the torque. I deal with wet heavy deep snow. Maybe I could benefit from a 3.5" dual pully ? Anyone have a link to one ?


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

2AriensGuy said:


> Regardless, for me, it's a done deal. I already have the 459cc engine & a 2 yr replacement warranty. The extra weight doesn't bother me. I can offset it with weight. I bought it for the torque. I deal with wet heavy deep snow. Maybe I could benefit from a 3.5" dual pully ? Anyone have a link to one ?











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I think I even have one.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

That's awesome, thanks for the link & the help !👍


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

If the HF 459cc engine has a taller output shaft, I think the plastic belt cover that's on my brand new 28" Pro just might work. It definitely looks a good bit taller. That would be great if it fits. I can just order a new one instead of cutting up & modifying the old one.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Temps warmed up to almost 60° today & it made me ambitious enough for a few hours work in the garage. Removed battery and put it on the maintainer. Drained fuel tank. Removed old engine & pulley sheaves from old shaft. Took off the bottom pan & cleaned it up good, same with the engine mounting surface. Looks like there's a rivet on each side of 2 engine mounting bolt brackets that I will have to drill out, to remove them. Then I can set new engine on & figure out the placement and mark & drill the new mounting bolt holes.

Took the new engine out of the box today, came with a spark plug wrench and a few extra & I'm assuming different size jets. Getting there a little at a time. One thing of note: Tecumseh shaft is 4.5 or 4.75" to center (I can't remember which) & the 459cc shaft is 5.25" to center. The 459cc shaft is 1" dia, same as the Tecumseh & the same length BUT, the 459cc is a LOT bigger in dia (probably 1.5- 2"), close to the engine (about a an inch out of engine it necks down to the 1"dia) so this will cause the engine to have to be mounted in a more reward position. Also, the 459cc is flat out quite a bit bigger size wise.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, I got back at it today. Took lots of pictures with my phone but I have no idea how to post them. If I can send pics when I text someone, which is easy, why isn't it easy to post pics from my phone on here. Almost 60 now and technology challenged I guess.

Anyways, I drilled out the 2 aluminum rivets holding the engine mounting bolts to the frame and removed them. Something that has always bothered me is that the auto differential or what ever they call it. It has not worked right since the day they delivered it new. A few years ago I removed the entire axle assembly because everything was rusted up pretty badly. Cleaned it up, wire wheeled everything and coated it with my signature mix of silver anti seize and 140 weight gear oil. So everything came apart super easy. But this time I took the auto differential out too & cleaned it up real good. Note: before I removed the tires, when I spun one tire, the other turned too, in the same direction, both forward and backwards. When I held one stationary, it was all I could do to turn the other at all. Like a locker......but not quite.

So today, I took it apart. It was stamped Hilliard and made in Elmira Ny, which is 2 hrs away from me. Not even sure if they are still in business. It had old hard grease of some sort in it and looked like if I took it completely apart, that there would be no way I would ever get it back together again. So I filled up each side with 140w gear oil and put it back together.

Blower has no engine on it right now, so I pushed it out of the garage, went up & down the driveway a few times and started making left & right turns & doing 360's in each direction. It kept getting easier and easier. I am pretty sure that it probably calls for 00 grease, but I have none right now. So I will try to locate some and redo it again at a later date. But I am super happy with the results of what I did today. It turns 1000% easier than it did. When it was brand new & I took it back to dealer for this, they said everything is normal and working as it should, even though I had to literally lift the handlebars & forcibly turn it. Lol took me long enough to get to it. I also replaced one of the blue axle bushings that was worn through.

But it's all back together now .


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, I may have figured out how to post a picture ? This is a pic of the stock Tecumseh shaft.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

This is a pic of the 459cc shaft. Here you can see where it necks down to stock size length and diameter.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I can definitely see that I am going to have to add weight up front. The new engine is bigger and heavier and has to be mounted a few inches rewards to make up the difference between engines. I'll get there slowly but surely.

Note: Stock Tecumseh engine weighs 60 lbs.
Stock Predator 459cc weighs 80 lbs.
Stock Predator 670cc V-twin weighs 110 lbs.

So, a +50 lb difference from stock for the V-twin, then add the same weight to offset & your looking at adding 100 lbs over stock. That can't be good for it.

I'm looking at +40-50 lbs with the 459 & offset weight. That's about as much as I want to add.

So, basically it always comes down to this: the weakest link. When ever you modify anything, the process of strengthening the weakest link begins. So my personal thoughts are: do just enough to achieve your goal while keeping it as reliable as possible. 3 extra hp, 5 ft lbs more torque checks those boxes for me. I don't have a welder, so that played a part as well. Heavy modifications almost always require a welder.

Lol, there are snowblowers on YouTube with small block and big block V-8 engines, but they are mostly a show piece and not very practical for every day use (I am sure there are exceptions though). If I got that much snow on the regular, a 4x4 tractor with a blower would be more practical. My Uncle has a 85 hp Case/IH with a rear 8' blower that blows snow an easy 100'. He doesn't need it often but it's worth its weight in gold when he does.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, I went to every store near me today, looking for rivnuts, aka: rivet nuts, blind insert fasteners, expansion nuts, blind rivet nuts. I struck out everywhere. Like finding Hens teeth I guess. Nobody has even heard of them, not even NAPA. Trying to spend my money locally is more difficult everyday.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

2AriensGuy said:


> So, I went to every store near me today, looking for rivnuts, aka: rivet nuts, blind insert fasteners, expansion nuts, blind rivet nuts. I struck out everywhere. Like finding Hens teeth I guess. Nobody has even heard of them, not even NAPA. Trying to spend my money locally is more difficult everyday.


i used those on the auger brake pad
true value


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

McMaster Carr.

That is all.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

McMaster Carr's website said they were out of the size I needed. Thanks though. I ended up ordering them online, from Summit Racing. 

We have a FastenAll store but it is on call only, open only 2 hours per day & is wholesale, so I looked them up online......LMFAO, I don't need $14,000 worth of rivnuts !!!


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

As far as weight, I'll be honest but when I was working on my machine weight never really concerned me as far as it damaging or being a concern for anything.
I wanted more weight on the tires, and I didn't want to reduce the weight I had on the bucket, that much I knew. I already had 20 pounds added to the bucket and the heavier engine reduced it some, but the battery made up for it.

On my machine the wheels are on a 7/8" axle and have ball bearings. I'd have no issue putting the vtwin on that setup. I think my machine weighed in just under 320 pounds and that really doesn't matter much especially since it really isn't bouncing etc. I know, you already picked the engine so it's moot but I wanted to mention it just in general.

On the other hand........

I was and still am concerned about the 3/4" impeller shaft and it's bearing on my machine. I think bigger machines use a 7/8 shaft.
I did replace the bearing, but I feel those 2 items take most of the abuse at least in my situation. I still don't care for the fact the gear box is basically the thrust bearing and also kind of the counter-balance to the pulley as it just has that one bearing rather than two spaced out. But it is what it is and seems to work.

My other concern is the idler for the impeller belt. I modified the arm, but I think it's still not strong enough for what I did in the end. I may end up changing it again and making it beefier, but it's getting the job done for now.

My impeller / auger brake still isn't functional. When I swapped in the 8 3/4" diameter pulley the brake doesn't touch the pulley / belt anymore and it was kinda low on the list of priorities. I was also concerned that if something wasn't quite right the brake would cause more issues so I just ignored it. I may fix it one day, but I'm not really concerned.

If I was doing it from scratch, I'd use a 1" impeller shaft and beefier bearing(s) with a single BX belt. I'd also want clearance for a decently sized idler pulley, something in the 3 to 3.5" range.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Great info, thanks. I will have to measure things on mine. Not 100% sure but I think my split axle is 1" dia on the long side and there is a removable shaft over the necked down portion of axle on the auto turn side. I have not split the housing yet nor taken the auger assembly out. I am having a difficult time finding parts, specifically bearings for it. Lots of places say "in stock" but when you add to cart & go to checkout, it says "possible delivery dates of June or July !!! Very frustrating.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, here is some pics of what comes with the 459cc engine.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)




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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)




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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)




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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)




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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Hope those pics can help others who might be on the fence about a repower with this engine.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Here are some more pics. Of the difference between the old engine shaft height and the new engine shaft height.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Also picked up a single 2150 lumen led work light on sale for the new 28" Pro, some "00" cold weather grease & some miscellaneous grade 8 hardware to mount new engine. I already have some HD steel to reinforce engine mounts from the bottom side. MUCH MORE HD than the ones I removed.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I can see that it is going to be difficult to get the engine mounting holes in the exact right spot, because of interference from supports welded into the underside. To do so means that the engine shaft has to be slightly off center one way or the other. I made a photo copy on our printer of the mounting pattern in owners manual, that way, if I mess it up I can just make another.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

How much height can you get away with? You already have a half inch to account for. Can you raise it more and put a plate on rop of the chassis and under the engine? Someone here knows.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I don't recall having that issue but maybe mine is different?

We made these up and I sprayed them with galv paint so they're not pretty but they're functional.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Mine has angle stock, about 3/4", welded upside down, on each underside as close to the sides as you can get. I'll just have to be careful not to drill into it.

I just bought the NAPA green kevlar belts for it too, thanks to rob b 1 on YouTube for the part #'s and the length, for this particular engine. The 2 auger drive belts are 4L380W (38") & the traction drive belt is the 3L370W (37"). They are kevlar reinforced.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

If you look closely in this pic, you can see them. 

Upon further examination it appears that it may be flat stock, at a 45° angle to the sides.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Ah that doesn't have the angled edges like the 924 series.

On mine the screw holes needed to be partially into the angled part which is why I had to make the brackets. Otherwise I would've had nuts only touching part of the frame cockeyed.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I don't have a fully equipped shop, so I am gonna use some 1/8" or 3/16"x 2" wide for engine support from underneath. Just drill holes through it and use grade 8 hardware. Not the perfect solution but much stronger than stock to be sure.

Yes, that's what I'm concerned about. I don't have metal hole saws either. I think if I can drill 1 hole from the bottom up, then I can overlay the template on top, line it up on the 1 hole and accurately drill the other 3. At least that's my current plan of attack. Subject to change of course.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I used stainless steel 304 5/16 bolts we had on hand which are weaker than even grade 5. There's honestly no need for grade 8 for such a small load. It's only holding a small aluminum engine on.

Steel would've been better for several reasons but I didn't have any long enough and didn't want to wait.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Make sure the template matches...


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Oh I will. Lol, gotta double check all that stuff. I remember putting something together not too long ago from China that had directions saying in all caps "YOU PUT NUT HERE YES" , LOL , wasn't sure if that was a demand or a question. Lol

I am from the same school as most, I try to use stuff I have on hand if possible. Only reason I got grade 8 is because the mounts and threads were gold colored, like grade 8, lol.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, today's update:

Some smart person on here mentioned to CHECK THE ENGINE MOUNTING BOLT HOLE PATTERN THAT IS IN THE OWNER'S MANUAL, AGAINST THE ACTUAL BOLT PATTERN ON THE ENGINE !!!! Turns out, it is NOT the same. Then I noticed in tiny letters, at least for an old guy, it says "pattern is not to size ! WITF is the purpose of even putting a template in the owner's manual if it's not to size ? They should have just put the measurements and been done with it. Ok, enough rant.

The holes ended up being right on the very edge of the angle on the sides & also, the back 2 (closest to the operator) went right through the little line of extra support (looks like a weld seam but it's not). Nothing I could do, but the pully location is spot on. Makes me wish I had a welder to weld a piece on to match the angle on the underside edges, to the piece I am gonna use.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Here is some pics of today. I used the widest piece of metal for the reinforcement on the bottom, even though holes were very close to the edges. It is what it is.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Engine is not on yet & has yet to be started, but the belts line up perfectly. I also took both engine pulleys and removed all of the razor sharp edges on them, not sure what the maker was thinking on that. They were seriously sharp. I will also use anti seize on most everything that could be an issue to remove years down the road.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I would like to remove auger and gearbox assembly, to take apart & inspect & clean and hopefully just regrease & reinstall. Little bit at a time.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Who was that smart?


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Got the engine mounting holes drilled out today and mounted the engine. Had to use longer bolts because of the 3/16" reinforcement pieces on the underside and the thicker engine mounting plate. No easy task by yourself. Wife helped me with the most difficult one. So one of the major things has been done.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I would like to modify the oil drain too. You can just see it to the left of the yellow fill plug/dipstick. I would like to make it come out a few inches to a 90° elbow then another straight piece to the rear, with a cap. That would make it so much easier to drain the oil and not have the mess of it leaking down the side.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I also picked up a pack of 10 red/white 12" reflective strips from Harbor Freight and put them on the new 28" Pro, so hopefully it will be seen better from sides and the rear.

Gonna do the same to the 1336 Pro when I get it done.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Also today, I looked closely at the plastic belt cover on my new 28" Pro. It looked like it would bolt right onto the 1336 Pro. So I removed it and put it on the 1336 Pro. What do you know, it is an exact fit, direct bolt on, even the holes line up.

So anyone doing this swap can just order the plastic belt cover for a 2021 28" Pro (926090 001004), and it just bolts right on with room to spare, if you want that new tidy look. Or you can modify the old one. I don't have a plastic welder so I am just going to order a new one.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Looks like the back is wide open.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Yeah a little extension to cover that would be nice. I thought the same. But this really simplifies the task.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

It is not much tighter on the blower it was designed for. IMHO it looks like a generic type style, to fit a multitude of blowers and only need 1 part #. But I don't know for sure. Maybe I will have to see if I can close the back in some, we'll see.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Today I fabbed up a new belt guide. That was no easy task with the tools at hand that I have. It's not perfect but it will work, maybe needs a little tweaking with the proper amount of washers to get it placed perfectly. I'm happy with the outcome. Also need some shorter bolts, I'll get some soon. Also good news, I ordered the new belt/pully cover today and it was $9.92 !!! Can't beat that. I had them check the price twice. It's pictured with the old one. The old one just wouldn't work but the bolt holes are the same thread.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

2AriensGuy said:


> Today I fabbed up a new belt guide. That was no easy task with the tools at hand that I have. It's not perfect but it will work, maybe needs a little tweaking with the proper amount of washers to get it placed perfectly. I'm happy with the outcome. Also need some shorter bolts, I'll get some soon. Also good news, I ordered the new belt/pully cover today and it was $9.92 !!! Can't beat that. I had them check the price twice. It's pictured with the old one. The old one just wouldn't work but the bolt holes are the same thread.
> View attachment 194087
> View attachment 194087
> View attachment 194086


The pics show a much different belt guard to my Platinum and Pro models. The side pieces are too far away from the belts, the taut belt side should be no more than about 1/8" from belts near top. The idler side is just a little more than 1/8" from top of belt. The forward part of guide should be much higher and slightly over (and in front of) the pulley with an arced shape. When the clutch is released the belts contact the guard and are forced upward to provide clearance for pulley(s) to move freely without contacting belts.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

@2AriensGuy Here are pics of the belt guard on my Platinum and Pro machines:
Platinum Pics:
























Pro:
















Hope this helps with your design. Have you thought about a new guard from Ariens.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> Looks like the back is wide open.


No not wide open, just a large slot to allow the back of the cover to fit over the belt guard and crank shaft pulleys. No need to change anything on that cover.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I made the belt guard to closely resemble the old one and the one on my 2021 28" Pro. They are certainly different than yours. I guess I will just have to wait and see if they work of not. The easiest option is to cut off the end and make it 2 individual adjustable pieces. The bolt holes are farther apart on the new engine. Enough of a difference that bending a stock one to fit seems out of the question.


----------



## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

2AriensGuy said:


> I made the belt guard to closely resemble the old one and the one on my 2021 28" Pro. They are certainly different than yours. I guess I will just have to wait and see if they work of not. The easiest option is to cut off the end and make it 2 individual adjustable pieces. The bolt holes are farther apart on the new engine. Enough of a difference that bending a stock one to fit seems out of the question.


The adjustment on the 926501 requires a gap of no more than an 1/8" or the taut side (opposite the idler side). Your 2021 Pro should be the same as my 2022 Pro, at least the adjustment should be the same, and the same as your 926501.

You can bend the sides inward to meet the same spec. Without correct adjustment the belt will slap when clutch released and drive may not release.


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I say run it and see how it behaves.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Factory engine, factory position of belt guide.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Factory engine, upside down position of factory belt guide.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Lower, non factory position of factory belt guide.


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

This is what I came up with to get my belt to disengage.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

That looks really good and sturdy. Water jet for any of it ?


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

2AriensGuy said:


> That looks really good and sturdy. Water jet for any of it ?


Plasma and then welded the stainless pins in.

But the point was it's far from factory but it works. The heavier BX belt kept wanting to bulge out that side when disengaged.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Good to know. I don't have access to plasma, water jet, or a welder.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Today's update. 
I ended up buying a steel tube and making spacers for the stock belt guide and just bent it to fit properly. I'm calling it good until it proves otherwise. 

Filled the gas tank 1/2 full, put 1.16 qts of oil in it. Fired it up. Letting it run 2 hrs. Drain the oil. Refill, let run 4 hrs. Drain & refill and every 20 hrs from then on, or once per year at the most. Seems to feel noticeably more powerful than old engine. 

I recycled the old engine. I donated it to a guy who works on snowblowers. My Tecumseh didn't actually blow up. It started revving up very high. I shut it off before it actually self destructed. I didn't want to put any money into it. He was happy to have it. He wanted to give me something for it & I said no. I was glad to help him out & see the engine to keep on living. He said he could fix it. And I am happy to have more power in ours.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Also removed the inspection cover for the auger gearbox. The insides looked like brand new. In 2017 I did that and while it looked good it also looked like it needed some more lubricant. At that time there was no 00 grease in stock by me, so I added about 10 pumps of grease and some 140w gear oil. This time I added some 00 grease & buttoned it back up. Gonna try to order a impeller bearing. Sounds a little noisy.


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

One of the last things I did on mine was pull the spark arrestor. I don't know if it made any difference but it seemed like it could be a pain down the road and I didn't like how it looked and I don't expect much dry grass, leaves etc while I'm blowing snow.

I removed the air filter and changed the jet to a 0.043 but I haven't made up my mind if im happy with it.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Good to know, thanks. 

Did you change the jet BECAUSE you removed the spark arrestor and air filter ? Or just trying to get every bit of power out of it ?


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

2AriensGuy said:


> Good to know, thanks.
> 
> Did you change the jet BECAUSE you removed the spark arrestor and air filter ? Or just trying to get every bit of power out of it ?



I changed it because even running the engine when it was 70 degrees with the air filter installed it seemed a hair lean, not bad but borderline.

Without the filter it was very lean and cold air was just going to make it worse. The spark arrestor didn't have any effect on it I don't think.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Good to know, thanks. 

Today, I ordered a 12 mm x1.5 male to 1/4" female npt adapter bushing for the oil drain plug and went to the hardware store and got a 2" piece, a 90° elbow, a 6" piece and an end cap, all in 1/4" npt. It's going to allow me to get the oil drain just over the side and angled to the rear, and just clear the rear, for easy no mess oil changes.


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

2AriensGuy said:


> Good to know, thanks.
> 
> Today, I ordered a 12 mm x1.5 male to 1/4" female npt adapter bushing for the oil drain plug and went to the hardware store and got a 2" piece, a 90° elbow, a 6" piece and an end cap, all in 1/4" npt. It's going to allow me to get the oil drain just over the side and angled to the rear, and just clear the rear, for easy no mess oil changes.


Can you share some pictures of that?

I couldn't figure out a way I felt was strong enough on my machine to run any turns etc with pipe fittings


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

The adapter goes into oil drain hole and this will go into it. I am going to angle is on a downward slant. If I feel strength is an issue, I will just add a support hanger from an insulated cable clamp, like this.



















Still waiting on adapter. I'm just hoping that it will screw in without having to loosen up engine hold down bolts.It will be a tight fit.


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## saddenaal564 (8 mo ago)

I'm running a 420 on a 24" and I feel it's perfect for me. Certainly not overpowered.

mobdro apk


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

saddenaal564 said:


> I'm running a 420 on a 24" and I feel it's perfect for me. Certainly not overpowered.



That's my opinion as well.
Honestly, I feel a 24" with an 8HP is similar to a 1980s lower end car with a 3 speed automatic. You know, the kind with 80-100HP in a 3500lb car that when you floor it and it downshifts you still don't really go anywhere? It's a "you get what you get and have to make it work" machine. Yeah, it works, but, bleh. 
Where's with the 420, it feels like the engine is actually sized appropriately and doesn't max out constantly. The power is there when you want it, and often it runs nice and easy.

For light fluffy snow 8HP on a 24" is enough. Otherwise, I think it needs a little more...................beef........


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Glad it's working out well for you. 

I went with the 459 cc for a little more grunt. I got the 2 yr total replacement warranty for $100, just for peace of mind. After all, it's made in China. I was told if it fails, just remove the gas & oil & bring it in & we will give you a brand new engine. I really wanted to buy American but a comparable engine was $1300 - $1999 & laughter ensued when they told me "good luck trying to find one in stock." In these tough times, money matters. Especially to retired fixed income people like us.


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

2AriensGuy said:


> Glad it's working out well for you.
> 
> I went with the 459 cc for a little more grunt. I got the 2 yr total replacement warranty for $100, just for peace of mind. After all, it's made in China. I was told if it fails, just remove the gas & oil & bring it in & we will give you a brand new engine. I really wanted to buy American but a comparable engine was $1300 - $1999 & laughter ensued when they told me "good luck trying to find one in stock." In these tough times, money matters. Especially to retired fixed income people like us.



I'm not retired or fixed income, and it still matters, a lot.
I'd love to know the differences between a Predator 420 and a B&S 420 and if it justifies the price difference.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Me too. I mean we all realize that anything can break or wear out and many of us don't mind paying more (within reason) if we are getting more. I pure and simply took a shot in the dark with the engine I bought. I hope it works out. Only time will tell. I wish that there was a comparably spec'd & priced American made small engine. But we are forced to work with the choices we have. My blower is 15 yrs old and I am finding some parts difficult to find. Can't imagine in another 10 yrs, blowers will start at $5k for an entry level machine & probably be $10k for a large machine. Lol..... If we are not forced into battery powered blowers only. Lol


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Oil drain plug adapter arrived today. I bought 2, incase I ever want to put a 459 on the 28" Pro. Lol











I jumped right into it. It was easy peasy. It seems plenty sturdy and strong. I don't think any support is necessary. Refilled with oil and will let it idle for 4 hrs tomorrow. Engine seems to run very cool compared to the 13 hp Tecumseh. It idled for 2 hrs the other day in 80°F and I could touch part of it with my hand without instant sizzle.

















For added insurance against leaking, I cut up some thick rubber and pushed it into the end cap.


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

How much oil do you think the thickness of the adapter will keep from draining?

I'm asking because it's what bothers me about the options I've come up with for mine and I assume I'm just being too picky.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Lol, if you're asking me, then yes, you are being too picky. Nothing that putting the far wheel up on a piece of wood won't fix. Lol

I always tip mine anyway. But now because the mess of an oil change is behind, it should encourage people to drain on time or even more frequently.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So here are some pics of the oil screen/filter after the first 2 hr run at the 1st oil change. Lots of nasty stuff in there. I will clean and reinstall and check it again tomorrow after 4 hr run.
























There are 4 sides of the 3 windows.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Cleaned the screen & filled it up with 1.16 qts + a little extra to allow for the new extended oil drain tube. Running for 2 hrs tonight and another 2 hrs tomorrow, then drain again using new drain tube.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Are you varying rpm and load during this?


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

No load. Belts aren't on yet. Book says low rpms only, no load, do not rev motor. So basically about idle.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

factory light blows
i did something close but closer to the bucket looks factory it was around 18 bucks for everything it lights it up like daylight








led light install 28 inch ariens 44cc deluxe


The light is a 7 inch combo flood/spot 9 to 60v dc ip67 3200 lumen 40 watt 8 - 5 watt led 2 center and 1 on each end are spots 2 floods each side of the center 2 spots My research shows that using a switch the light can back feed so am not using a switch I want the light on when iam...




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

2AriensGuy said:


> No load. Belts aren't on yet. Book says low rpms only, no load, do not rev motor. So basically about idle.


I don't think I've ever heard of letting an engine idle for hours to break it in regardless of what the predator book says. I'd Google it and see what typical procedures are because you know how opinions (including mine) are. 

My procedure was to run it near idle and lower rpms until it loosened up and started running cooler but I didn't let it sit at one speed. After that I ran it faster and even 3800 rpm for short bursts and I kept varying the speed. After a tank of gas I drained the conventional SAE30 and switched to Mobil 1 5w30.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Yup, that's pretty much what I am doing too. A few high revs here & there.

Your light looks great. I didn't realize it when I bought the one for the 28" Pro but it is not a flood pattern, it is a spot. Was thinking about returning it until I turned it on in the backyard at night, OMG, plenty bright enough close up and it lights up to the end of the street. So no need to return it. Can't tell people how important bright lights are at night and in the daytime.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Let it run for 6 hours today and drained it. A few pieces of metal but nothing like yesterday.































One thing that I noticed today is that the engine fan seems to put out a lot more air than the Tecumseh.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Most of the parts I ordered came in. Still missing the belt drive plastic cover I ordered for it. But I got the impeller shaft bearing. So I can get to splitting the housing to replace that, when I get the chance.


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, I split the snowblower today and removed the entire front housing assembly. It is amazing how with just a little grease, how long things can last. The original nylon split bushings on each end of the auger assembly are like brand new. No need to even replace them. The impeller shaft bushing was making noise. Upon removal, I felt no play & everything turned fine but you could feel grit inside it when held in your hand and turned. 

I tried very carefully to pry out one side. It worked but after I cleaned and regreased it, I carefully tried to put that side back in & it turned into a s!#+ show. Bearing was too tight, so I am just putting the new one back in. 

Old original bearing from 2007 is also from China. It says China, Peer, 8186 RSTLD, same as the new one. Everything came apart easily. Storing it inside must have made a difference. People across the street have a 2011 Ariens and the insides are rusted badly. 

Cooking chicken breasts for dinner, so I gotta get cleaned up and get to making dinner. That's all for now.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Replaced the impeller shaft bushing today and put the paddle mod on the impeller. Used all stainless hardware. Next up is the replacement belts. Not sure if the information I got is correct for my particular blower. I was told 37" for traction drive belt and 38" for the auger/impeller belts. I put the 37" traction drive belt on and it seemed way too big. Done for the day.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Your machine has a bushing for the impeller shaft?


Mine has two big bushings on the ends of the augers but the impeller shaft has a loose fitting ball bearing.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Nope, it was a bearing, sorry for the mis- speak. Mine also has bushings on each side of auger shaft, with a nylon split bushings in each side as well.

I went and picked up the belt cover I ordered today. I used 5 stainless steel bolts in each impeller paddle, to hold the mud flap piece to the impeller paddles. Overkill probably. I'll get some pics in a day or so.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, apparently there is something confusing that went on with the belts needed for new engine and higher output shaft.

I was told to use NAPA kevlar belts in 3/8" x 37" for traction drive belt and 2, 1/2" x 38" belts for auger drive. That is not correct for my machine. Factory sizes are 3/8" x 35" for traction drive and 1/2" x 38" for the auger belts. 

The new proper sizes for my machine are 3/8" x 36" for traction drive and 1/2" x 39" x2 for the auger drive. So just 1" over the factory sizes. I have a bunch of new belts for it but pretty sure they will fit the new 28" Pro, so they won't go to waste.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I don't know who recommended the belts or sizes but I would've said to use AX belts for the auger shaft.

Length isn't as easy though to be honest. It depends on too many things and using software I got close but still even up getting a 1" longer belt than calculated


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

2AriensGuy said:


> So, apparently there is something confusing that went on with the belts needed for new engine and higher output shaft.
> 
> I was told to use NAPA kevlar belts in 3/8" x 37" for traction drive belt and 2, 1/2" x 38" belts for auger drive. That is not correct for my machine. Factory sizes are 3/8" x 35" for traction drive and 1/2" x 38" for the auger belts.
> 
> The new proper sizes for my machine are 3/8" x 36" for traction drive and 1/2" x 39" x2 for the auger drive. So just 1" over the factory sizes. I have a bunch of new belts for it but pretty sure they will fit the new 28" Pro, so they won't go to waste.


I am doing a similar swap like yours right now....
I have a 40" on the auger....but its a touch loose. I have some 39" coming. If you look at the ariens parts schematices....you will see they had a belt on there that supposedly measures 39 5/8. 
you can adjust that out. They want stupid $ for those oem belts. 

as for the drive...36 might work...or a 37. They did change the pulley on the drive for the 420cc original vs 342cc...

I am assuming that new HF engine has same crank height as all the other clones. It might have a wider bolt down-mount pattern like my 440cc clone on my pressure washer I made. As for the filings, yeah...they aint Honda level...but they are pretty damn robust. No need to break it in so much....just run it. 


Now..I am curious about what You did with that dif. I have seen a few guys disasemble them in the past..I need to review that. My Pro28 also has that auto turn diff, which is on my deluxe 28 SHO and I LIKE IT...with plastic skid shoes. Im wondering if it could use some fresh grease....but mine was not really used..






- YouTube


Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.




youtube.com


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I just took it apart carefully, not messing up the gasket or anything inside. I just used gear oil. Filled it and closed it back up. It has not leaked out yet. There was old grease inside, it wasn't hard but it wasn't the way it is supposed to be either. I figured that the gear oil will make the grease soften up. Lots of tiny pieces inside. I didn't want to take it completely apart, looked like a rubik's cube to me, & I could never figure them out either so..... the more I turn it, the easier it turns now, definitely wayyy better than before.

My 2007 1336 has 2 sides that you could open on the differential. My new 28" Pro only has 1 side that you can open. Does the same thing, just more compact.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

2AriensGuy said:


> So, I got back at it today. Took lots of pictures with my phone but I have no idea how to post them. If I can send pics when I text someone, which is easy, why isn't it easy to post pics from my phone on here. Almost 60 now and technology challenged I guess.
> 
> Anyways, I drilled out the 2 aluminum rivets holding the engine mounting bolts to the frame and removed them. Something that has always bothered me is that the auto differential or what ever they call it. It has not worked right since the day they delivered it new. A few years ago I removed the entire axle assembly because everything was rusted up pretty badly. Cleaned it up, wire wheeled everything and coated it with my signature mix of silver anti seize and 140 weight gear oil. So everything came apart super easy. But this time I took the auto differential out too & cleaned it up real good. Note: before I removed the tires, when I spun one tire, the other turned too, in the same direction, both forward and backwards. When I held one stationary, it was all I could do to turn the other at all. Like a locker......but not quite.
> 
> ...




appreciate the pics of the dif.
yes, this is different than the newer style. was there a center spring in this or no? 
I seem to remember 1 guy that had a spring...and it broke. I dont see that in yours.

I am going to remove mine, its the same unit..and make sure its greased. 

your machine have alot of hours on it?


----------



## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

harry398 said:


> appreciate the pics of the dif.
> yes, this is different than the newer style. was there a center spring in this or no?
> I seem to remember 1 guy that had a spring...and it broke. I dont see that in yours.
> 
> ...


I took mine apart. dry as a Bone. dried up Lithium? white grease?
no spring
I loaded it with red and tacky. some of those rollers look to have lightly flat spotted the inner bearing....lightly.

the newer design is superior. Ill post pics on my repower thread later.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

A lot of hours is an understatement. It's a 2007 & I live in the rust belt so....yes lots of hours and thousands of tons of snow has been moved with the old 1336. The town trucks have wing blades & ALWAYS come the same direction down our street, so we get all the snow on our side. It is common to have snow up to my shoulders at the end of driveway after the plow goes by. And common to have 6-8' snow banks on our side but none at all on opposite side of street. It is what it is, and that's why I bought the big 1336 to begin with. It has paid for itself multiple times over in my opinion. So did the John Deere 1032 we had previously. Bought our house and the John Deere in 1992. I just wore out the JD to the point that it was no longer dependable.

I got back at it again today and pretty much finished it up. So, again with the belts, traction drive belt is 36" and perfect. Auger drive belts: I tried 40" but they were too long & would not engage properly. Went to 39" & they work great but also the auger and impeller spin but not as fast as when actually engaged. Maybe it could be adjusted but I'm good with the way it is. No small kids around anymore.

I got the wiring & battery hooked back up today too. I bypassed the key & hooked battery directly to starter. Engine has its own start button. It starts easy enough by pull starting it but having electric start option is good. Hooked up the lights directly to battery too. Everything seems to work fine. I always keep it on a charger/maintainer anyways. The belt cover seems to fit perfect too. I couldn't detect any rubbing inside it. The only spare parts I have left over is from the old engine mounting hardware and the old belt guide hardware, so I guess that's good. Lol

Ready for the 2022/23 winter season now.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Can you loosen the tensioner wheel


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I'm not sure. Done working on it for today. I'm sure there is some adjustment somewhere in it.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

2AriensGuy said:


> A lot of hours is an understatement. It's a 2007 & I live in the rust belt so....yes lots of hours and thousands of tons of snow has been moved with the old 1336. The town trucks have wing blades & ALWAYS come the same direction down our street, so we get all the snow on our side. It is common to have snow up to my shoulders at the end of driveway after the plow goes by. And common to have 6-8' snow banks on our side but none at all on opposite side of street. It is what it is, and that's why I bought the big 1336 to begin with. It has paid for itself multiple times over in my opinion. So did the John Deere 1032 we had previously. Bought our house and the John Deere in 1992. I just wore out the JD to the point that it was no longer dependable.
> 
> I got back at it again today and pretty much finished it up. So, again with the belts, traction drive belt is 36" and perfect. Auger drive belts: I tried 40" but they were too long & would not engage properly. Went to 39" & they work great but also the auger and impeller spin but not as fast as when actually engaged. Maybe it could be adjusted but I'm good with the way it is. No small kids around anymore.
> 
> ...


That sounds similar to what I get.
I only have 20' of sidewalk and a tiny 1 car wide driveway but we're on a state highway and they plow it and salt the hell out of it. Normal storms they do 3 trucks wide and right to the curb or very close. During bad storms like a good Nor'easter they do 5 trucks wide and it hurts.

I end up with this 3+' deep packed refrozen salted nightmare.

It's usually rock hard until you get right by the road then it's slush.


----------



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I needed to edit that.
3+ foot deep. Not 5. Not yet anyway.

I was tired when I typed that but after all is said and done I do end up with 5+ foot thick piles on either side of the drive way.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Lol, looking forward to this winter but NOT 3-5' at a time. Lol


----------



## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So, I am going to wrap up this thread for now or until any future issues. I did it to hopefully help others with big HD aging machines like mine. 

Used the HF 459cc engine. Even though it is a "small engine", it is considered a big block and it has a hemi-spherical combustion head. It is a pressurised oil system but it also has the splasher arm inside, so you get the best of both lubrication systems. It also has a oil screen/filter that is removable and cleanable. It has 12v start and it's own built in 12v engine start button. So you can bypass all the factory wiring if you want. I just folded it up & zip tied it to the handlebars. I also joined the HF Inside Track Club for $44 for 2 years so I could save $50 on engine. $430+ tax. I also got a 2 year replacement warranty for $100. The bonuses so far are: I saved $40 on the new Doyle 6" vise (that I absolutely love) & $30 on the 24" fan on wheels for the garage. It works great but was rattling when turned on. I tightened everything up & no more rattling. 

The belts that worked for me were all 1" larger in diameter than the stock ones. And they are Kevlar reinforced. So 3/8"x 36" for the traction drive belt and 1/2"x 39" for the 2 auger drive belts. The output shaft of new engine is taller, which is why longer belts are necessary. 3 belts at NAPA were $70 !!!

I ended up reusing the stock metal rod belt guide but modifications were necessary. I bought a 3' length of metal tube, just big enough for the longer bolts to fit through. I also used washers to help keep everything in line when tightening things up. The stock metal rod belt guide needed to be bent open wider, but only a tiny bit, to fit the spacing in the new engine block. 

The plastic belt housing cover is from a 2021 Ariens 28" Pro. It fits perfectly. No mods needed. It was $10 from my Ariens dealer. 

The factory 12v wire/cable broke an end off when I removed the Tecumseh engine, so I crimped a new end on heat shrinked it & reused the cable for new engine connection to same battery. The 12v starter on new engine seems VERY aggressive. They reccomend 300cca or more. Mine is a 350cca & is 3 yrs old & works like a champ. So factory battery lasted from 2007 to 2019 ! Not too shabby. Anyways, I always keep a trickle charger/maintainer on it, so I think that is key to the long life of batteries. 

I also did the impeller mod. I used a semi truck mud flap and 5 as bolts and hardware on each impeller blade. I also replaced the original impeller shaft bearing. 

I'm sure I am forgetting things but that's the jist of it. I hope this helps others. Here is some more pics.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I may have to put the impeller mod on the back side of impeller if it doesn't throw well. Also, for those who are detail oriented, yes, the bolt on each impeller blade is backwards on purpose, so it doesn't rub on back of housing.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

2AriensGuy said:


> A lot of hours is an understatement. It's a 2007 & I live in the rust belt so....yes lots of hours and thousands of tons of snow has been moved with the old 1336. The town trucks have wing blades & ALWAYS come the same direction down our street, so we get all the snow on our side. It is common to have snow up to my shoulders at the end of driveway after the plow goes by. And common to have 6-8' snow banks on our side but none at all on opposite side of street. It is what it is, and that's why I bought the big 1336 to begin with. It has paid for itself multiple times over in my opinion. So did the John Deere 1032 we had previously. Bought our house and the John Deere in 1992. I just wore out the JD to the point that it was no longer dependable.
> 
> I got back at it again today and pretty much finished it up. So, again with the belts, traction drive belt is 36" and perfect. Auger drive belts: I tried 40" but they were too long & would not engage properly. Went to 39" & they work great but also the auger and impeller spin but not as fast as when actually engaged. Maybe it could be adjusted but I'm good with the way it is. No small kids around anymore.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to seeing this in action! 🍻


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Me too.If it works as good or better than it did when new, I would be very happy. Especially now that new ones are $4700. 

I read on a different forum where someone actually got into a bidding war over a new Kraken and said they ended up paying $8000 for the thing because of the shortages !!! Must be nice to have that kind of disposable income. Lol


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

2AriensGuy said:


> So, I am going to wrap up this thread for now or until any future issues. I did it to hopefully help others with big HD aging machines like mine.
> 
> Used the HF 459cc engine. Even though it is a "small engine", it is considered a big block and it has a hemi-spherical combustion head. It is a pressurised oil system but it also has the splasher arm inside, so you get the best of both lubrication systems. It also has a oil screen/filter that is removable and cleanable. It has 12v start and it's own built in 12v engine start button. So you can bypass all the factory wiring if you want. I just folded it up & zip tied it to the handlebars. I also joined the HF Inside Track Club for $44 for 2 years so I could save $50 on engine. $430+ tax. I also got a 2 year replacement warranty for $100. The bonuses so far are: I saved $40 on the new Doyle 6" vise (that I absolutely love) & $30 on the 24" fan on wheels for the garage. It works great but was rattling when turned on. I tightened everything up & no more rattling.
> 
> ...


That Baby is going to throw some snow, I like it.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

I want info on furst bug snow. Should be awesome


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

less expensive auger belts. I use these. they are good. Accessory Drive Belt Dayco L439 | eBay


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

harry398 said:


> less expensive auger belts. I use these. they are good. Accessory Drive Belt Dayco L439 | eBay


You don't want a wrapped belt driving the impeller / auger. They're intentionally designed to slip.

You'll notice all of the original Ariens belts are raw edge except the wheel drive belt where it really doesn't matter.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

I thought those were raw edge.
Maybe not.....
I have used them for years, I find they have performed best for me. Other belts havent.
Ill look into that more.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

harry398 said:


> FYI
> Good Morning Harry
> 
> 
> ...



Hi Harry,

Yes,
I also had Gates tell me to use a wrapped belt. Every belt manufacturer is going to say this. Wrapping makes the belt last longer, and makes it clutch nicer.
But the problem is it makes the belt slippery and it doesn't grab anywhere near as good as a raw edge belt especially on small diameter pulleys. This is why Ariens used raw edge belts. It's technically wrong, but it works.

If you look at what you need to use on a snow blower as per the manufacturer it's crazy. They expect a single wrapped 4L belt to handle a fraction of a horsepower and with fairly large diameter pulleys. I think on a typical 8HP snowblower, the belt manufacturers would want you to use something like six 4L belts to drive the impeller / auger. Six belts........

For my own machine I ended up using a single BX belt, which is basically a cogged raw edge 5L belt. I also used smaller pulleys than recommended because I had no choice. Even with the big BX belt they still wanted me to use 2 or 3 of them for 13hp.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

ChrisJ said:


> Hi Harry,
> 
> Yes,
> I also had Gates tell me to use a wrapped belt. Every belt manufacturer is going to say this. Wrapping makes the belt last longer, and makes it clutch nicer.
> ...


I pointed this out to the guy, and he is researching.
Im not an expert on this....but all I know is I have had great experience with these belts in particular. 
I have, in the past, had trouble with other belts on other machines.

I did see you have a cogged belt. plus and minus on that....but certainly no slippage. neg side, there is no give if something gets into the auger....so it will continue to rip through the obstacle..I would think. 

Another benefit, which can be critically important in the applications that require it, is belt slip. While a v-belt slipping within a sheave can seem counter-intuitive, it can prevent significant damage. *When a torque spike occurs, or a sudden change in the drive speed causes the belt drive to respond in kind, a wrapped belt will slip more easily than a raw-edge.* Most of the time, the belt will snap before transmitting power back into the gearbox or motor, so the belt’s ability to slip is a safety factor. Raw-Edge vs. Wrapped V-Belts - Baart Industrial Group


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

harry398 said:


> I pointed this out to the guy, and he is researching.
> Im not an expert on this....but all I know is I have had great experience with these belts in particular.
> I have, in the past, had trouble with other belts on other machines.
> 
> ...


Keep in mind, I'm using a cogged belt with smooth pulleys, it's not a timing belt.
I had considered a chain drive with a clutch.

If something on mine grenades I'll have to fix it. But I needed to transfer 13HP somehow and I didn't have enough room for two 4L's


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

from dayco. Using the Wrapped belt will give you better performance during in icy and wet conditions give you a better grip when the metal is cold. Just a all in all better performance and longevity 

well..if I have trouble with these belts, ill try a raw edge...


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

harry398 said:


> from dayco. Using the Wrapped belt will give you better performance during in icy and wet conditions give you a better grip when the metal is cold. Just a all in all better performance and longevity
> 
> well..if I have trouble with these belts, ill try a raw edge...


That's fair.

What machine do you have Harry?


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

I have a Pro 28 i recently picked up.
put a honda gx390 on it...used those belts on that one. dual belts like the thread shows.

still have my deluxe 28 SHO. that has original belts..machine was barely used.

I put that style belt on a ariens 11528 last year...worked ok...i need to look if see anything..that has only 1 belt for the auger.

Other years I had a craftsman that ate belts like mad.....then a MTD 10/29...that never ate any belts.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

harry398 said:


> I have a Pro 28 i recently picked up.
> put a honda gx390 on it...used those belts on that one. dual belts like the thread shows.
> 
> still have my deluxe 28 SHO. that has original belts..machine was barely used.
> ...


Please keep in mind, wrapped belts clutch smoothly and quietly.
Meaning, if it's slipping under load you won't know, it'll be nice and quiet.

Raw edge belts will tend to make noise when slipping, such as the chirp when you engage the auger. They don't like to slip.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

that might be true....but if you notice its not blowing so strong, a little tighter on belt most likely solves that.

the most important thing is not having a belt failure.

I got your point, and its Valuable. 
thank you


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

1.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

2. I notice on my mower....or mowers with a clutch brake....they squeal when engaged. They wear fast. When I put that ag belt--aramid...it doesnt squeal..and grips hard. right? wrong? all I know is the timemasters go through belts fast....original is a raw edge.


so....there is alot of mysteries on raw edge vs wrapped....is it a cost issue? forgiving issue? 

people talk that the cost of wrapped is higher, i find the opposite is true.....


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I don't think there's much of a mystery but it's not exactly simple.

There's how much the belt can handle without breaking.

There's how much you can get into it from the pulleys, smaller diameter pulleys cover less surface area of the belt. This is the biggest issue on a snow blower, you typically have a 8.5" or 9" pulley which takes a huge amount of room and then to get enough gearing you end up with a tiny 2.75" pulley on most stock machines. That 2.75" is a huge handicap.

My guess on price is a good wrapped belt should cost more but the cheaper wrapped fractional 3L and 4L belts are so common they end up cheaper than the more custom raw versions.

An AX will handle a whole lot more power than a 4L but that small 2.75" pulley is still the limiting factor imo.

I spent a few months on and off looking into it when doing my setup and I talked to Gates a few times. But I'm by no means an expert. Not even close.

I have no doubt my Predator 420 would've either burned up or broke a 4L belt but the BX handles it just fine.... So far


The reason I keep saying do not used wrapped belts is the manufacturers say they slip easier and Ariens said do not use them. Unfortunately that's all I've got to go by.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I have always bought spare belts for every blower I have ever owned. Which is only 3 in 30 years. (Still have 2 of the 3) I have never broken a belt nor has any failed otherwise. But all the belts I have as spares are the kevlar ones. I just assumed stronger is better. Always good to learn something new. I will keep an eye on the kevlar belts I put on. I'd say 10-15+ years on factory belts is pretty darn good with the amount of snow that they chewed through.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Took the blowers out of the shed and put them in the garage in preparation for winter today. 

Both have different starting procedures so it took me a minute and my reading glasses to finally get them started, with the pull start. I did not even try using the electric start. Once started, they restart easily. Looking forward to the snow to put the 15.8 hp Hemi to the test. I think it is going to be a beast, especially with the impeller mod !


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Thanks to "Town" on this forum, I knocked out another snowblower project. I hooked up my 2150 lumen Tractor Supply Traveler led light. I unhooked the stock pathetic light, cut the plug off & hard wired it, using the waterproof epoxy butt connectors & a piece of fuel line for protection from rub through. Works great on high rpm, not so much at idle. I am very happy with the output on high. Very happy with the way it came out. Thanks again to Town. I am not a wiring expert but I think that most black wires with white stripes are positive. This is the opposite, so I think that sticker that said "rev -" might mean that the + & - wires are reversed.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

This project was on our new 2021 28" pro. Our old repowered 1336 has 2 of those lights and a 350 cca 12v battery. I tried to get pics of it on but for some reason they just won't turn out right.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I am sick as a dog right now, so no pics, but this new engine is an absolute BEAST !!! We got 8-10" of wet, heavy Buffalo lake effect snow. About 2' at end of driveway. I am just super impressed with the 459cc engine. It was blowing that wet heavy snow across the street......not from the end of driveway, struggling like before,.......but from halfway down the driveway with authority !! I am so happy we didn't just get rid of it. This thing just eats snow & between the 13 to 15.8 hp upgrade and the impeller mod, it throws the snow like it is just having fun. Neighbor asked if it was a new blower. Couldn't be more happy. It was worth it, all day long. 

So if you have a big frame blower and want it to work the way it should, get a 459cc HF engine (I also got the 2 yr no questions asked warranty for $100) & do the impeller mod. It will now throw wet, heavy snow into my side yard from the street and easily over our garage when I have to make a path to the shed.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

2AriensGuy said:


> I am not a wiring expert but I think that most black wires with white stripes are positive. This is the opposite, so I think that sticker that said "rev -" might mean that the + & - wires are reversed.


The "Rev:-" just means that there's no revision to the part number. In the D/C world, black is going to be negative when paired with a colored wire.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tabora said:


> The "Rev:-" just means that there's no revision to the part number. In the D/C world, black is going to be negative when paired with a colored wire.


Usually but not necessarily especially in electronics.

But you're right that's a revision comment.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

ChrisJ said:


> Usually but not necessarily especially in electronics.


Not in electronics. In D/C lead pairs, though...









Connector ID: 2.1mm
Connector OD: 5.5mm
Open ended
Pre-Stripped
Red=Positive, Black=negative
22 AWG

And in PC power supplies, etc.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Have to be careful on the PC power supply @tabora 

Yes black is ground but there's also negative supplies there as well so in that case you could view black as + when used with one of those.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

ChrisJ said:


> Have to be careful on the PC power supply @tabora
> 
> Yes black is ground but there's also negative supplies there as well so in that case you could view black as + when used with one of those.


It's still a reference point. Ground is ground the world around...
_G*round* or *earth* is a reference point in an electrical circuit from which voltages are measured, a common return path for electric current, or a direct physical connection to the Earth. _​


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tabora said:


> It's still a reference point. Ground is ground the world around...
> _G*round* or *earth* is a reference point in an electrical circuit from which voltages are measured, a common return path for electric current, or a direct physical connection to the Earth. _​


This is an example of the PC's bipolar supply using two 12V car batteries.
For what it's worth (probably nothing here..) no modern PC uses the -5V or -12V rails anymore but it's still included in modern power supplies.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

ChrisJ said:


> This is an example of the PC's bipolar supply using two 12V car batteries.
> For what it's worth (probably nothing here..) no modern PC uses the -5V or -12V rails anymore but it's still included in modern power supplies.
> 
> View attachment 203165


OK... Kind of getting far from the "colors of the pigtail" question. 
Humorous thought... Old British positive ground car on the left and modern US car on the right; matches the side of the road they drive on?

However, that would be more useful as a 24V battery system.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tabora said:


> OK... Kind of getting far from the "colors of the pigtail" question.
> Humorous thought... Old British positive ground car on the left and modern US car on the right; matches the side of the road they drive on?
> 
> However, that would be more useful as a 24V battery system.
> View attachment 203174


I believe the reason for bipolar power supplies is they cancel noise out in circuits by nature.
A lot of cars had positive ground years ago. I believe Ford did into the 1950s.

It's really far off topic, I'm sorry about that.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Well, I am here to tell everyone that the Harbor Freight 459cc Max Performance engine is friggin AWESOME. We got absolutely hammered with snow. Very similar to the blizzard of 77' Buffalo Ny. The drifts were so hard packed, you can walk on them without sinking in. Went outside at 8am & just got back inside. Snowblower could not even bite into the drifts. All had to be knocked down with a shovel first. Drifts up to the roof of the Subaru Forester & halfway up my garage door. Snowblower did AWESOME. Only went through 1.5 tanks of gas. Did our house (which is a lot) and 4 of my neighbors, but just did the ends of theirs. End of the driveway was up to my armpits. 

So anybody on the fence about this engine, it works fantastic and throws the snow farther than the 1336 did even when brand new. By a good margin. Very happy with the outcome of the engine repower.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)




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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)




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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)




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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I know that it don't look like much but the wind was 50+ mph. Without a doubt this blower moved well over a literal ton of snow. From 8am to 2pm of nonstop snowblowing.

Also of note: all these pics were taken around 5pm tonight, on the second round, after we cleaned it up earlier this morning. Plow went by again and this was just the cleanup of that.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

great job on that blower
I love that bucket style wish i still had it


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Thanks, I came really close to getting rid of it when the Tecumseh engine crapped out. I didn't think I could do it.

Which is why I bought a new 2021 28" Pro. I used it 1x and then the weather broke for spring. So I took my time over the course of the summer and fall, so I wasn't freezing my butt off.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

2AriensGuy said:


> Thanks, I came really close to getting rid of it when the Tecumseh engine crapped out. I didn't think I could do it.
> 
> Which is why I bought a new 2021 28" Pro. I used it 1x and then the weather broke for spring. So I took my time over the course of the summer and fall, so I wasn't freezing my butt off.


Awesome job. Taking your time to do it right is paying off now! 👍


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Thanks. I think I may have to put the next size larger jet in the carburetor though. It always started fine but in this extreme cold it takes a while to start. It starts immediately but then dies. After about 20x then it starts. Like it's starving for fuel. But I sure did use every bit of the hp & torque. We got hammered last night too. Had about 2 feet at end of driveway this morning. Was nice & did 4 neighbors driveway ends too.


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## guzzijohn (Mar 31, 2014)

The pilot jets are very small for epa regs. Bumping those would help. My '91 and '05 mtds are both tecumsehs and even started in warm shop the '05 takes more choke fiddling to get warm. That one's pilot is microscopic. Fixed jets are ok butt!??


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I think I may have figured it out. I won't know for sure until tomorrow, after engine is completely cold, but I disconnected the low oil shutdown (the wire from the sensor to the magic black box and the wire from the magic black box to the engine. It started up instantly. But I also ran the snowblower for 30 minutes doing clean up snow at 10 am. It is almost 1 pm now . Took 20 - 30 tries before it started when cold this morning.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

2AriensGuy said:


> I think I may have figured it out. I won't know for sure until tomorrow, after engine is completely cold, but I disconnected the low oil shutdown (the wire from the sensor to the magic black box and the wire from the magic black box to the engine. It started up instantly. But I also ran the snowblower for 30 minutes doing clean up snow at 10 am. It is almost 1 pm now . Took 20 - 30 tries before it started when cold this morning.


not likely the jets


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Yup, your right. Upon re reading the manual, it has 2 jets. 1 for 0-3000 ft (which is what was in it from the factory) & 1 for 3000-8000 ft above sea. We are at 755 ft. So the other jet is a no go. I'm convinced that it is a malfunctioning or over sensitive (take your pick) low oil shutdown system.

It has always started first pull or instantly with the electric starter, until it got really cold. I will update everyone tomorrow. Fingers crossed....


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

2AriensGuy said:


> Yup, your right. Upon re reading the manual, it has 2 jets. 1 for 0-3000 ft (which is what was in it from the factory) & 1 for 3000-8000 ft above sea. We are at 755 ft. So the other jet is a no go. I'm convinced that it is a malfunctioning or over sensitive (take your pick) low oil shutdown system.
> 
> It has always started first pull or instantly with the electric starter, until it got really cold. I will update everyone tomorrow. Fingers crossed....


Check your gas cap and tank vent, just went through this with my 212cc HF I just bought and it was doing the die and start crap. I drilled out the vent thingy on top of the tank and opened up the low speed pilot jet today, guess what? didn't die once today. Just a suggestion.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Thanks for the info on the fuel cap.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

2AriensGuy said:


> Thanks for the info on the fuel cap.


You're welcome


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

SUCCESS, SUCCESS, SUCCESS !!!

The low oil shutdown system was the problem. So, if you are mechanically inclined enough to put this engine on your snowblower, then I am assuming that you have enough sense to check the oil level & do it on the regular. Then & only then, do I strongly recommend disconnecting it. 

If you are not one who checks the oil on the regular, then don't disconnect the system & be prepared for a huge amount of time and effort to get it started in the extreme cold.

I disconnected the wire from the crankcase sensor to the "magic little black box". Then I disconnected the wire from the magic little black box to the engine electronics. Wahla, no more issues. It doesn't even have to crank, it starts up instantly now in the extreme cold weather.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Pics to come showing what I did, but there are plenty of YouTube videos showing it on other HF engines. It's very similar.

Also, very much looking forward to the RBG video on hot rodding the 459cc. He says he thinks he can get 40 reliable hp from this engine.

I'm hoping that he builds 1 up into a torque monster with reliability in mind for us snowblower folks !


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Hey @ariensguy......congrads. I think a vid would be a big Hit! 
as for the low oil sensor......its Not Uncommon of a problem....even on 1 Honda GX390 I had....(actually still have that engine).

Im looking forward to running my 2010 ariens PRO 28.....with that Honda gx390..........I want to run that thing so bad....lol.......

I guess Your belts held up.....thats great too!

Hows IS the Differential performing for you? easy to manuever?


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Yup, had the same problem with my 1994 Generac Generator.

It handles as well as can be expected for a 400 lb (yes, it really is 400 lbs) snowblower. It certainly turns better than it did before I took the differential apart and lubricated it that's for sure. Belts are holding up fine. And it has not plugged up once since the impeller mod. Not even with the slushy snow now that it is melting but all the neighbors blowers plugged up.

As far as video, I don't know how to upload a video. I am technology challenged. Sorry, maybe someday someone will show me.

Going out today to move the giant snow piles from the blizzard because if it doesn't all melt, it will be a giant block of ice, then I am going to change the oil & look at the screen filter for any metal debris. This will be the 4th oil change but the first one since working the snot out of it. Lol pics of that to come.

I also have a new 2021 28" Pro. Used it 1x so far. It is my backup, so we don't miss a beat if old one breaks down. Seems to work great but is not even in the same league as the old one with new engine.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

So this is out front, gravel is a parking spot in summer but I had to clear it for the Holiday parking when relatives plus both kids came home, so we needed 3 extra spots but still can't be there overnight in the winter, for plowing reasons.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

This is the front yard parking spot for the Holidays.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

This is the driveway. Yup, it's destroyed but we have been retired for 6 years and are not eligible for SS yet. So we have a lot of area to snowblow.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Other side of the end of driveway that I removed the pile from. Trying to make sure that we have room for snow if it freezes up before this all melts.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I need to say this also because I think it is worth mentioning: even after working the snot out of it & re blowing that super heavy concrete snow, you can put your hand anywhere on the engine and leave it there (except the exhaust & cylinder head) without getting burned. Seriously, this engine runs cooler than ANY small engine I have ever owned. I mention this for longevity and anyone who has a summer time use for this engine. 

Now, on to the oil change. 










Oil filter screen is the black one, dipstick is the yellow one.










This is the 25 lb pull magnet that I keep on the end of the extended oil drain I made.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

Yes, there was some sparklies in the oil but nothing that I am even remotely concerned about. The filter screen had nothing in it or on it. There was no metal visible on cap where the magnet was either. What you do see is bubbles, that is not metal.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I did however, find something that concerned me. I missed it the first 3 oil changes during the break in oil changes. The surface of the oil dipstick mateing surface was not smooth and had some sharp metal casting crap that could have easily damaged the O ring over time. I filed it down and sanded it smooth and VERY carefully inspected the O ring for any sign of damage. I found none.

While I was relocating the snow pile today, some guy stopped and asked how in the world was I snowblowing that wet heavy slushy snow without clogging up. Lol
I told him to go to YouTube and look up impeller mod. I told him that and hp baby ! Lol


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