# 2006 Toro Snowthrower 10 minute runtime



## rms59 (Dec 18, 2013)

First time poster here who's having a brain bending problem with my 2006 Toro Power-Max 828LXE (model 38630) Snowblower with a Tecumseh HMSK 80-110 engine. 

Here's my problem. It starts on the first pull, idles fine, goes to full throttle without balking and the governor tackles heavy snow without a problem.

However, after 15 minutes, it begins to surge or hunt, then acts like it's running out of fuel, then quits. I then press the primer, add choke and it starts right up again but only runs about 45 seconds before it quits again. 
Let the whole thing cool down stone cold and it's good to go for another 15 minutes like clockwork.

This is what I've done though not in any order...

1. Replaced the carb with a brand new one. Same problem exists.
2. Changed the plug. Gapped to spec. Same problem.
3. Made sure cap vent was working.
4. Made sure every hole in the carb was clean. 3 holes on the main jet and three on that screw on the side. Float has no leaks. (carb is new)
5. Removed and flushed the tank. 
6. Blew out the fuel line running from the tank, through the engine cowling, to the carb. 
7. Pressed in bowl drain to make sure fuel was flowing.

Even when it quits I can push the bowl drain and fuel comes out.

What am I missing? Coil? I thought coils would need to cool down for some time before it would work again.

Dick

Repeated the above steps more than once.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Could be your exhaust valve. Sometimes when they heat up they expand and no longer close properly. Time for a valve adjustment maybe.


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## rms59 (Dec 18, 2013)

Shryp said:


> Could be your exhaust valve. Sometimes when they heat up they expand and no longer close properly. Time for a valve adjustment maybe.


 How difficult is that to do. Any procedures?


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

You can google valve adjustment snow king engine on you tube on how to check them. If they are too long, you have to pull head, compress valve spring to remove valve and grind down valve stem


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## Mr Fixit (Nov 19, 2013)

*Spark possible issue*

That could even be a failing spark from a faulty electronic ignition. Bad condenser can act like that. It will act like a timer. That accurate.

If increasing choke has no effect as it's failing. I'd move away from a gas issue. 

Valve? How much longer then 15 minutes if it's not working at all at lower RPM? If it's still 15 minutes again I'd think electronic ignition. Compression test right after it's stalled hot would show a dramatic change from the cold engine Compression measurement. 
A few shots of oil in the cylinder after it quits hot would bring the compression reading back up. Then I'd open the engine to adjust it..


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## rms59 (Dec 18, 2013)

Ok, I checked compression as advised.

Stone cold = 75lbs
added some oil still reads 75lbs

Ran it for ten minutes until it stalled and checked again = 75lbs.

It bugs me because I can add choke as it's failing and it will run for a few minutes longer but then quits even if I move choke to full.

Even after it stalls I can push on the bowl drain and fuel comes out steady.

.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Clogged carb jets. You need to clean it.

My guess is something from the fuel tank or fuel line has got in the bowl.

If choking it makes it run a bit longer it is definitely some sort of fuel problem.


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## rms59 (Dec 18, 2013)

Shryp said:


> Clogged carb jets. You need to clean it.
> 
> My guess is something from the fuel tank or fuel line has got in the bowl.
> 
> If choking it makes it run a bit longer it is definitely some sort of fuel problem.


 That's what the repair shop is saying too. I gave up and brought it to them. What gets me is that both the old and the new carb (right out of the box) do exactly the same thing with a clean tank and line...and I mean pristine.

I'll let you know what they come up with.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

I'm thinking spark. If spark becomes weak, adding fuel makes it easier for it to spark. I'd check the plug, and re-gap it tight and see if that changes the schedule. Also, get a cheapo spark gap tool. The wire goes on top, the bottom clips to the block, and there's a thumbscrew you can turn to adjust the test gap and see how far the ignition will jump.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

rms59 said:


> This is what I've done though not in any order...
> 
> 1. Replaced the carb with a brand new one. Same problem exists.
> 2. Changed the plug. Gapped to spec. Same problem.
> ...


Please make sure you update us if you ever figure this out. Sounds like a genuine butt kicker.


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## rms59 (Dec 18, 2013)

nt40lanman said:


> I'm thinking spark. If spark becomes weak, adding fuel makes it easier for it to spark. I'd check the plug, and re-gap it tight and see if that changes the schedule. Also, get a cheapo spark gap tool. The wire goes on top, the bottom clips to the block, and there's a thumbscrew you can turn to adjust the test gap and see how far the ignition will jump.





dbert said:


> Please make sure you update us if you ever figure this out. Sounds like a genuine butt kicker.


 It will take a few days since he's busy but I'll get back with the answer.


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## rms59 (Dec 18, 2013)

Update.....

I wanted to wait until the next snowstorm before I updated this post and we had a 9 incher where I was able to actually use the now repaired snowthrower. It ran perfect. Not a stumble in 45 minutes.

When I brought the snowthrower to the repair shop (He services Toro...my brand) I started it up and showed him what it did. It started ok, ran fine for a few minutes, then began to starve and die right in front of him. He immediately pushed the bowl drain and fuel came out.... I told him I put a new carb on it and it did the exact same thing. I got it back 5 days later but he went on vacation so I couldn't talk to him but I got the $138 bill and a report.

According to the report... the fuel, the fuel line, valves, plug, and electronics all checked out. All he replaced was the main jet. Now.... remember, I bought a brand new carb and it did the same thing as the old carb and I inspected the three holes in the main jet on both carbs and they were clean.

I'm more bewildered now than I was before.....but it runs perfect. I thought of pulling the carb off and looking at that jet but I think I'll leave well enough alone.

Richard


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