# is wd40 do any good to your blower



## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

Just bought a 1332 and would like to keep the rust away the longer possible... is it overkill to spray wd40 on the inside of auger and outside as a preventive move against rust ... 
What about inside of the shute ... will this make the snow to stick into the shuts or will this prevent it to stick ?
Thanks


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

I've used WD40 on the inside of the auger housing, augers and inside of the chute of my '91 HS828 for a few years and it just doesn't last long at all, more to keep the fast forming surface rust that seems to form just on the worn off paint areas of the impeller housing and the scraper bar. My augers, housing and chute never would rust. I brush off the snow and chip ice off after every use and kept the blower in an unheated garage.

Personally, I wouldn't coat the outside, just because of the dirt and junk it would attract, but some gets on part of the exterior anyway. At this point, I've wiped off any overspray.

This year I've stared using Fluid Film on my HSS1332. Sprayed all in the inside of the auger housing and chute interior. I like it so far. I'll see how long it lasts.


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## SnowG (Dec 5, 2014)

For painted services, the paint is your protection. Touch it up when needed. 

WD40 is a water displacing lubricant. It doesn't last long. Boeshield is the best anti-corrosion coating for bare metal that I'm aware of. I have used it and tested it in saltwater Marine applications and it works well. Boeshield was developed by Boeing Corporation for anticorrosion in aircraft. 

The best anti-stick coating I've found for the inside of the bucket and discharge chute is McLube Sailkote. It's a dry lubricant that doesn't provide anticorrosion. It'll also make skis and sleds faster. 

CorrosionX is the best anticorrosion coating for electrical contacts and bare wire. It will also help improve and clean bad contacts.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Is it "overkill", not really. Is it a waste of time, IMHO YES !!

Read up on what WD40 is and what it does.

WD stands for water dispersant.
It's not really a lubricant and it doesn't last when used as a lubricant. Ask anyone who's used it on a door hinge. It isn't long and it's squeaking again.

It's great for drying out the inside of a distributor cap or for spraying on ignition wires or for cleaning tools and removing the gum reside from labels but it's (IMO) the last choice I'd make for a lubricant or protectant film. It's good to spray on your machine to clean and wipe down but there are far better ways to protect it. Are you talking about when you store it or during the season ??

Fluid film is a great Protectant and helps to prevent snow from sticking when in use.
For the chute taking the time to line it with plastic or painting before each season would be the best ideas.

Shop Fluid Film 11.75-oz Fluid Film Rust & Corrosion Preventive Penetrant & Lubricant at Lowes.com

I personally haven't used Fluid Film but plan to try it this year. I've read really good stuff on it. I use wax and keep the paint touched up and don't have problems with snow sticking and the "Impeller Mod" takes care of the slush.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Looks like I'll be adding some new sprays to the anti-corrosion department of my garage. Thanks.


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## SnowG (Dec 5, 2014)

I'd add that CorrosionX is also good on bare metal but Boeshield is a better "conformal coating" and will last longer as a coating. Both can be used on electrical circuits as a corrosion preventer but CorrosionX is also a contact cleaner and is more liquidy, so will penetrate better. Boeshield is more waxy and ideal on control cables. 

Also, the best thing you can do is rinse off any salt on a regular basis. Salt from road and ice melting compound is the biggest enemy. Freshwater not a problem.

One strategy I use to reduce salt on my machine is to attack the EOD first, then do the remainder of the driveway which is fresh snow that hasn't had salt applied. This cleans out most of the plow slush and public road salt by the time I put away the machine


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

I'll echo what the others have said: WD-40 is no good for rustproofing.

WD-40 is basically kerosene... not exactly the same but close. It's a hydrocarbon solvent / lubricant / water displacer that evaporates quickly. Not in minutes, but hours/days.

If you spray it on a part that has oil or grease or something like fluid film on it, it could actually make the part rust faster by removing the coating!


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## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

film fluid seems to be the way to go then, thanks


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## obthedog (Oct 16, 2015)

*Good advice thanks for the link*



Kiss4aFrog said:


> Is it "overkill", not really. Is it a waste of time, IMHO YES !!
> 
> Read up on what WD40 is and what it does.
> 
> ...


Thanks this is useful - seems like everyone should have a can of this around - I plan on using it in the chute of my new HSS


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## yarcraftman (Jan 30, 2014)

What do you guys think about using an automotive car wax instead of a spray?

I waxed my 724 with Meguiars NXT on all painted surfaces including the auger, bucket, and impeller. It was time consuming and I got a few knicks on my hand off the auger but it seemed ok after season one?

Just curious what you guys think of car wax versus a spray?


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## SnowG (Dec 5, 2014)

yarcraftman said:


> What do you guys think about using an automotive car wax instead of a spray?
> 
> I waxed my 724 with Meguiars NXT on all painted surfaces including the auger, bucket, and impeller. It was time consuming and I got a few knicks on my hand off the auger but it seemed ok after season one?
> 
> Just curious what you guys think of car wax versus a spray?


Car wax is great on painted surfaces. However it's not worth the nicks on your hand imho. I don't worry about it, just touch up the paint when needed and it won't rust. If you do get any rust just spray with Rust Converter as primer then a color finish coat. My last blower was never coated or waxed -- 20 years old when I sold it and rust wasn't an issue. It'll probably go another 20 with the next owners.


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