# honda hss1332atd Oil



## RichRios (Feb 10, 2021)

What’s the best oil for honda hss1332atd? Thanks


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

RichRios said:


> What’s the best oil for honda hss1332atd? Thanks


Refer to your owners manual. Either 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on average outside temps in your area.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

OMG, we don't have oil threads here like on the motorcycle forums? Honestly now, we cannot do better than what the owner's manual (the manufacturer) recommends? What ever happened to, 'if it ain't broke, fix it'?


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

I'd go with any 5w-30 power equipment specific oil. One with an additive package best suited for splash lubricated air cooled engines. Yamalube, Honda PE, or Amsoil to name a few.

But frankly any 5w-30 is sufficient. As long as sufficient is good enough for you.


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## RichRios (Feb 10, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> I'd go with any 5w-30 power equipment specific oil. One with an additive package best suited for splash lubricated air cooled engines. Yamalube, Honda PE, or Amsoil to name a few.
> 
> But frankly any 5w-30 is sufficient. As long as sufficient is good enough for you.


I’m thinking about going with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

RichRios said:


> I’m thinking about going with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30


after machine is broke in


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

WrenchIt said:


> OMG, we don't have oil threads here like on the motorcycle forums? Honestly now, we cannot do better than what the owner's manual (the manufacturer) recommends? What ever happened to, 'if it ain't broke, fix it'?


oil opinions are like you know what......everyone has one.

that is why I always say read your owners manual. those engineers who designed these engines aint no dummies.

JMFO


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

You can break it in with expensive synthetic oil, it wont hurt a thing except your wallet when you change it after only 5 or 20 hours for the first break in change, so why waste the extra money on the good stuff when you will get a short life out of it before it is changed the first time.
Then afterwards run the expensive stuff and save your money on the first break in oil with it's short life.
You want to make sure you use a good quality 'Small Engine Oil' - 'Air Cooled Engine' not Automotive oil designed for car engines, there is a difference. Car oils are not designed for the abuse a small engine will put it through.


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## Arcticnorth (Nov 27, 2020)

RichRios said:


> What’s the best oil for honda hss1332atd? Thanks


In the user manual Honda recommends 5w-30 oil with *API classification SJ or newer. *So that is what I always use, Mobil or Castrol with those specs.


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

Certainly full synthetic oils have better flow properties than conventional oils due to having no wax in their makeup, so will get to the parts more quickly than a conventional oil that may start to gel closer to 0F. Synthetics tend to flow well closer to -40F. Over time (decades?) very cold starts with conventional oils will take their toll on an engine more than synthetics due to initial wear of the engine as a gelled (conventional) oil takes time to become fluid. Likewise, synthetics may enable a quicker start in very cold temperatures for a similar reason.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

ST1100A said:


> You can break it in with expensive synthetic oil, it wont hurt a thing except your wallet when you change it after only 5 or 20 hours for the first break in change, so why waste the extra money on the good stuff when you will get a short life out of it before it is changed the first time.


I have heard that some of the 'energy saving oils' with additives might not allow the rings to seat. Best to follow the mfr's instructions in the Owners Manual.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

For break in, better safe then sorry. Conventional is ideal or blend at most. The concern is overly slick oil will cause the cylinders cross hatching to wear before the rings can adequately file themselves true to the bore of the cylinder. No babying these things, During break in work the machine hard.


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## RichRios (Feb 10, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> For break in, better safe then sorry. Conventional is ideal or blend at most. The concern is overly slick oil will cause the cylinders cross hatching to wear before the rings can adequately file themselves true to the bore of the cylinder. No babying these things, During break in work the machine hard.


So after break end I’m good to change oil to pennzoil ultra platinum


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

RichRios said:


> So after break end I’m good to change oil to pennzoil ultra platinum


Yes, if that particular Pennzoil meets Honda's requirements (I've not checked, but checking for the appropriate approvals is your responsibility anyway). In recent years the need for breaking in a new engine has changed (compared to say, 40 yrs ago) due to better manufacturing practices and closer machining tolerances. Again, read the manual.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Arcticnorth said:


> In the user manual Honda recommends 5w-30 oil with *API classification SJ or newer. *So that is what I always use, Mobil or Castrol with those specs.


" and there's your sign"


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

RichRios said:


> So after break end I’m good to change oil to pennzoil ultra platinum


Yes


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## feh (Dec 16, 2016)

After ten hour break in with my HSS, I went mobil 1 5w-30 and runs like a champ.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> Refer to your owners manual. Either 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on average outside temps in your area.


My new 1332 manual says strictly 5W-30 Across any temp range......btw orangputeh, you seem knowledgeable so a question: I want to fit a better oil change drain to avoid a mess. I think the 1332 has a 10mm thread but can you recommend something to fit after my first change? Drainzit or other?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Breckcapt said:


> My new 1332 manual says strictly 5W-30 Across any temp range......btw orangputeh, you seem knowledgeable so a question: I want to fit a better oil change drain to avoid a mess. I think the 1332 has a 10mm thread but can you recommend something to fit after my first change? Drainzit or other?


i use the drainzit. no complaints. the oil question is a no win question. everyone has an opinion. my Honda owners manual has a chart for oil weights . according to chart I should use 10w-30 in the Sierra Nevada . I use Costco Synthetic 5w-30. Ask 100 people about what brand oil and what weight and you will get 100 answers.

wanna have some real fun about oil questions? join the bobtheoilguy website. people argue all day long there. 

That is why I said refer to your owners manual. Honda engineers aint no dummies.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> I think the 1332 has a 10mm thread but can you recommend something to fit after my first change? Drainzit or other?


You remove the extension when you install the Drainzit, so it's an M12. The correct Drainzit is the HON1012.








12 mm Oil Drain Hose/Extractor HON1012 - The Home Depot


Drainzit oil hoses make changing oil easier and cleaner. Drainzit is easy to install, simple to use and requires no engine modification. For use on nearly all equipment powered by small engines: pressure



www.homedepot.com


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> You remove the extension when you install the Drainzit, so it's an M12. The correct Drainzit is the HON1012.
> http://[URL]https://www.homedepot.c...012/206184636?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US[/URL]
> View attachment 176096


yeah, that looks great. Done deal. Indeed, Home Depot has it while Amazon only has the 1010. Good save. Thanks


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

+1 Drainzit.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> yeah, that looks great. Done deal. Indeed, Home Depot has it while Amazon only has the 1010. Good save. Thanks


Hate to belabor the point, but if I tilted the blower prior to the first change and removed the drain plug could I install the drainzit right then and there? Or would there be too much head pressure and it oil would come spilling out?


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

If you tilt it far enough yeah, you can install it without draining the oil.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> if I tilted the blower prior to the first change and removed the drain plug could I install the drainzit right then and there?


That's what I did. IIRC, I used a 4x4 and a 2x4 stacked under the drain side track. Removed the extension with the drain plug still in the end and popped on the Drainzit. Easy. Made the first oil change VERY easy.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> You remove the extension when you install the Drainzit, so it's an M12. The correct Drainzit is the HON1012.
> http://[URL]https://www.homedepot.c...012/206184636?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US[/URL]
> View attachment 176096


Got it. From my pic below, to yours.....


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> That's what I did. IIRC, I used a 4x4 and a 2x4 stacked under the drain side track. Removed the extension with the drain plug still in the end and popped on the Drainzit. Easy. Made the first oil change VERY easy.


Quick question on the drainzit install: I remove the extension; I assume there is no washer or o-ring that I need to replace as well? The extension is simply threaded in? Thanks.....


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> The extension is simply threaded in?


Yup, it has its own seal...

First, remove the oil drain plug from your engine and attach the Drainzit hose. Make sure the connection is secure and the custom-designed fitted seal will do the rest.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> Yup, it has its own seal...
> 
> First, remove the oil drain plug from your engine and attach the Drainzit hose. Make sure the connection is secure and the custom-designed fitted seal will do the rest.


Hate to belabor this, but the fitted seal at the base of the extension is a permanent seal, and not one I need to replace when I crack that seal initially, right? Sorry but I’m being extremely OCD about making sure things are right the first time as far as maintaining and laying up my 1332 the right way the first year out. Don’t worry, while I have 5-6 weeks of more snow, I’ll probably be silent until next season and I’ll try not to abuse the forum with incessant posting. My plan is to tilt the machine To a 45 degree angle and install the HON 1012 Dranzit before that first oil change. ✌🏼

btw, should I get a torque wrench to be exacting? 😖

Delta


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> Sorry but I’m being extremely OCD


Time to let it go. I posted the verbatim instructions line... Remove everything Honda and install everything Drainzit.


Breckcapt said:


> btw, should I get a torque wrench to be exacting? 😖


Really let it go... Use vise grips! 😈


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> Time to let it go. I posted the verbatim instructions line... Remove everything Honda and install everything Drainzit.
> 
> Really let it go... Use vise grips! 😈


i hear ya! ✌🏼Perhaps not vice grips. 😁


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

I found out a long time ago that synthetics let an engine crank a whole lot easier. 

Mobile makes a 10w synthetic that is oriented towards air and liquid cooled motorcycle engines - MX4T. I don't know if it makes a lot of difference, but that is what I switched the cycles and yard equipment to 15 years ago. Its not exclusive as it takes in liquid

I agree on the break in on regular oil, again I am not sure it makes a difference, but its not going to hurt anything and may seat in a bit better. 

The Pennzoil will be fine, the Mobile 4T difference does not seem to be major but a bit of chemistry shift. I run that in the Ural boxer engine now (the two wheel cycles are gone). 

The Ural has to say outside, we had a night of 5 deg and it started fine when it was around 10 deg the next day (so I don't know how cold soaked the engine was still). I don't normally do that, I start in warmer spells usually but I wanted to see how it did. 

I run the Honda Lawnmower on the MX4T as well.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

_Really let it go... Use vise grips! _

Day in day out Vice Grips are much better than Torque wreenches , same those for head bolts! (well a the right size metric wrench is preferred)


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> That's what I did. IIRC, I used a 4x4 and a 2x4 stacked under the drain side track. Removed the extension with the drain plug still in the end and popped on the Drainzit. Easy. Made the first oil change VERY easy.


So you’re saying tilt it about 6”? Or is that 8”? I’m assuming this old guy can do this himself.....that oil change coming up in 4-5vweeks.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> So you’re saying tilt it about 6”? Or is that 8”?


Ummm... 3.5" + 1.5" = 5"


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> Ummm... 3.5" + 1.5" = 5"


ok, I’m confused......but yes, I did have to look it up, you are correct, sir, and I am humbled. Mea culpa


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> Ummm... 3.5" + 1.5" = 5"


OK, tabora, I’ve got a good handle on this now thanks to ya, eyeballed what I need to block the drain side track to about 5-6”, got my Honda oil, and will be ready to rock. I realize I was being a little ’ol grandma about this whole thing, more than likely trying your patience, but I’m just trying not to make a mess of this first oil change. I’m on my own up here, trying to make this first season a productive learning experience so I can go into next year confident and relaxed about the whole thing. Hey, I’m just an old retired merchant seaman when you get down to it so what do you expect? Next week up here we’re supposedly gonna get the 1-3” forecast every day which means either nothing or a lot. I’m about a month out from laying up the machine I imagine. Thanks again for your advice and patience. ✌🏼


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

_Mondai nai_!


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

Kansha shimasu...


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> That's what I did. IIRC, I used a 4x4 and a 2x4 stacked under the drain side track. Removed the extension with the drain plug still in the end and popped on the Drainzit. Easy. Made the first oil change VERY easy.


Well, I always figured I‘d get some use out of those old decking scraps. I did have to settle out on six inches vice the five you so smartly pointed out would be ideal for blocking under the drain side. A few weeks to go for the drainzit install so now all I’ll lose sleep over is if the center of gravity will still be on my favor. Oh! The horror! Hey, and in my first season I only created two good size divots In the lawn I cleared for the Goldens. here’s my deluxe jury rig:


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

Well, thanks Tabora....followed your directions to the “T”’ and installed the drainzit before first - end of season as well - oil change. I thought I’d have an issue tilting it up on to the wood blocks but easier than I anticipated. Not a drop of oil anywhere but in the container. I’ve got it up and in its summer storage location; I’ll drain off the fuel and set up the trickle charger. Appreciate your help.....


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

So...while a bunch of us were looking at the first of the aspen leaves starting to emerge, I was bragging to several of my neighbors that I installed the drainzit on my new 1332, did my first oil change as per the manual, Blah, blah, blah and of the four I spoke to that had snowblowers two of them looked at each other and then told me they hadn’t changed their oil in the past five years. Say whaaaa?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

LOl .... that is very common for people to never change the oil in a small machine ... heck, they probably don't change there cars oil either.

People want to just put gas and go ... most don't even use additives.... That's why I swap out so many carburetors, and always changing out black slime. Sad really ... 

Thank goodness I have a gas station in town that takes all the old oil and gas ....


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## Lunta (Dec 14, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> Well, thanks Tabora....followed your directions to the “T”’ and installed the drainzit before first - end of season as well - oil change. I thought I’d have an issue tilting it up on to the wood blocks but easier than I anticipated. Not a drop of oil anywhere but in the container. I’ve got it up and in its summer storage location; I’ll drain off the fuel and set up the trickle charger. Appreciate your help.....
> View attachment 178484


Looks smart.
I installed one on the YT660. But I’m a bit concerned about the strength of the keeper in the longer term. If it fails on mine, the drainzit will dangle on the track. Of course I can add a tie-wrap or something, but maybe those keeper are really tough?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Lunta said:


> But I’m a bit concerned about the strength of the keeper in the longer term. If it fails on mine, the drainzit will dangle on the track. Of course I can add a tie-wrap or something, but maybe those keeper are really tough?


They are tough... If mine ever does fail, I'll just use a power cord Velcro wrap from a laptop power cord. I've got 100s of those...


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## Caper63 (Jun 15, 2021)

Who knew. Apparently I need a Drainzit. Another item I want (NEED).


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Changing the oil in your small engines is probably the best thing you can do. Every time they ask owners of cars that went a million miles they asked them what their secret was. This was at the top of the list.
At UPS we have had thousands of trucks that went over a million miles. The mechanics told me they are religious on changing oil and filters and of course timely maintenance.


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