# Craftsman 536.886331



## Michael Palagonia (Mar 16, 2017)

Hello. New to the Forum. I have a 20+ year old craftsman model 536.886331. I can't seem to find an engine manual, seems like it may be a 143.941001. I'm not sure exactly what is wrong, but I don't seem to have any spark AND the electric start is no longer engaging. I'm quite ignorant when it comes to terminology, but it may be that the teeth on the starter are broken off? not sure. It just "spins" sounds like "vreeeeem". like it is not engaging on the fly wheel. I've never been able to start it manually with the pull start, ever. Any advice as to where to start would be appreciated. thank you!


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Michael, The 143 number should translate into a Tecumseh HMSK100 159244T .
Parts diagram Tecumseh HMSK100-159244T - Tecumseh 4-Cycle Horizontal Engine Diagrams and Parts List | PartsTree.com
Engine service manual http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf
That's a lot of issues for one paragraph, by never able to start by pulling it assuming you mean the pull still turns the engine over?? Starter gear may just be hung up on the bendix and not extending. Also assuming you are checking for spark with the plug out against the head and pulling the rope to cycle the engine?? If this is about right, try a new plug first to see if you have spark. Can't really try to fix anything until we have a spark or at least know the recoil rope can cycle the engine.


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## Michael Palagonia (Mar 16, 2017)

Thank you for the fast reply and the links, awesome!

The pull start does cycle the engine, so that it still coupled and seems to be working as intended. I've never been able to start it using that, have always had to use the electric start, unless the engine was already warm and I had shut it down to refuel for example. 

I forgot that I already figured out what was going on with the spark The kill key fell out. I just put it back in. so spark should not be an issue any more. Prior to noticing they key was missing ,last night, I kept trying to start it and eventually the starter was no longer engaging. 

This morning I found the key, put it back in, I continued to try and start it with the pull, even though I knew it would never start that way. Was desperate to try and get the driveway done this morning. It did just stop abruptly, and that must be when the key fell out. My dog found the key in the snow, and dropped it on the garage floor. quite a miracle actually that I found it.

I think with all that trying to start without the key, I broke the starter.....


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Sounds to me the starter drive is not engaging. You have a starter motor with a gear at the end that shoots out when electric is applied and retracts when no electric is applied. This gear could be stripped, or it could not be being thrown out due to being dirty or broken.

Remove the starter, look at it, clean it, plug the box into an electrical cord, press the button and see what is going on. Then two choices. Get another or bring it to a starter shop to be repaired.

For the pull cord, are you saying you can't start the engine that way because the engine won't start? Probably a carb problem then, unless the problem is the pull cord mechanism?

The 10hp is a big engine, I have 2, both start on the first pull in 15 degree weather after priming and choking. I did have a problem with both where they would only start using the electric starter. Cleaned the carb and both start with the cord now.


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## Michael Palagonia (Mar 16, 2017)

Yes, the engine just doesn't turn over with the pull start. I'll clean the carb and see what happens. I can live without the electric start if it starts with pulling. thank you!


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

Just to add on to Clay's information about the engine, your *"536"* Model Prefix indicates Blower was manufactured by one of the AMF off-shoots like Western Tool, Murray, Noma, or Dynamark who made equipment under the Craftsman label for Sears, and current ownership rights reside with Briggs and Stratton.


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## Michael Palagonia (Mar 16, 2017)

I haven't been able to find the starter motor for sale. Seems to not be listed with the other various parts. Again, I can live without it, if I had to, was just curious how much it cost. I'm going to try and clean the carb, and will pull the starter out to see if it is obviously broken, teeth missing, dirty, etc. Then go from there. Would be curious to see how much a new one cost though.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

New one is about $125-$150, clone is $60-$75. Do a search on here, someone has used ones, look under the for sale parts, it might be Jack Mel's. You have a common starter.


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

If you take the starter off, try starting using the pull cord. I use to have a Craftsman/Tecumseh and could never start it with the pull cord (started fine with starter). I had starter problems and took the starter off. Then it would start fine with the pull cord.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

CO Snow said:


> If you take the starter off, try starting using the pull cord. I use to have a Craftsman/Tecumseh and could never start it with the pull cord (started fine with starter). I had starter problems and took the starter off. Then it would start fine with the pull cord.


That means the drive was not retracting, it could mean the drive or the black box on top left the drive energized.


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## JamesReady (Mar 5, 2012)

You wouldn't be using SAE 30 oil in it, eh..?? I mistakenly did that 1 winter and had to use the "lectric"... once I figured it out and put 5w-30 in it, started first pull for ever after...

Good luck


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

THe Starter may just need a new Pinion Gear, or something minor like that.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

You said the starter quit while you were constantly trying to start the engine. It might have overheated.. Have you tried it today after a nights cool down?


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## Michael Palagonia (Mar 16, 2017)

Update: Thank you all for the feedback and suggestions. I replaced the spark plug, drained the fuel, cleaned the carb, put in fresh fuel, primed, and pull started this beast on the 3rd pull! I was skeptical at first that it would start this way, as it has NEVER worked before (since I've owned it). It ran better than it has in 3 years. 

I'm not even going to worry about the elect starter for now, in the spring I'll look at that again.

It is running a little rougher than I'd like, but still 10x better than on Tuesday. Any pointers on adjusting it to run a little smoother?


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## Michael Palagonia (Mar 16, 2017)

skutflut said:


> You said the starter quit while you were constantly trying to start the engine. It might have overheated.. Have you tried it today after a nights cool down?


I've had that problem before, where it overheated and wouldn't work. that was about 10 years ago. This time it was just "free spinning" like it wasn't engaging the fly wheel (?). Pull starting worked after the new plug, new oil, fresh fuel, and I cleaned out carb.


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## Michael Palagonia (Mar 16, 2017)

JamesReady said:


> You wouldn't be using SAE 30 oil in it, eh..?? I mistakenly did that 1 winter and had to use the "lectric"... once I figured it out and put 5w-30 in it, started first pull for ever after...
> 
> Good luck


you know that is what I put in it... SAE 30. it did seem a little "stiff" when I pull started it, but it did start up. I'll drain the "new" oil and put in 5w-30.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Michael Palagonia said:


> I've had that problem before, where it overheated and wouldn't work. that was about 10 years ago. This time it was just "free spinning" like it wasn't engaging the fly wheel (?). Pull starting worked after the new plug, new oil, fresh fuel, and I cleaned out carb.


You have to go easy on those electric starters. No more than 5 seconds cranking, then give it a rest for about 30 seconds. If it doesn't start on the second 5 second crank, then look into why not, like the key is missing, fuel valve is shut off, choke is off, no gas in it, not primed according to instructions, or over primed and flooded. 

As far as an engine manual, you might try finding the engine part number on the engine itself, and look for a manual for that. It's probably a Tecumseh engine and there are manuals for those all over the place. 

Donyboy73 has videos on youtube on how to fix a cranky (pun intended) starter. Could be the bendix spring, or teeth sheared off the gear. The teeth sheared usually makes a nasty grinding sound several times before they all break off, which should be cause for investigation before they actually all become metal dust. The free spinning, no grinding sound is more like the bendix isn't moving the gear into the flywheel teeth in the first place, unless of course, the grinding has been going on for a long time and now, there are no teeth left to engage the flywheel ring gear.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Michael Palagonia said:


> Update: Thank you all for the feedback and suggestions. I replaced the spark plug, drained the fuel, cleaned the carb, put in fresh fuel, primed, and pull started this beast on the 3rd pull! I was skeptical at first that it would start this way, as it has NEVER worked before (since I've owned it). It ran better than it has in 3 years.
> 
> I'm not even going to worry about the elect starter for now, in the spring I'll look at that again.
> 
> It is running a little rougher than I'd like, but still 10x better than on Tuesday. Any pointers on adjusting it to run a little smoother?


Sounds like you did some much needed maintenance, and got results. If this machine is 20 years old, it's possible it needs a check on valve clearance as well, which could affect how well it runs. If your carburetor has adjustable jets, some minor tweaking might smooth things out as well. Don't go too nuts and be sure to count turns before you start so you can put it back like it was in case things don't go as planned.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Running a little rough, carb. Do a better job cleaning it by letting it sit in Napa carb cleaner, other wise buy yourself a $15 carb from eBay or Amazon.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

+1 on the Carb Adjustment. The Adjustment is on the Bottom of the Carb's Bowl if You Didn't Know. Turn it while engine is running full throttle. GL.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Running rough? Of course carb adjustment first. I recommended cleaning again and if that didn't work a replacement of the carb assuming after someone rebuilds or takes a carb for cleaning they would adjust it, and correctly. Many times I'm tweaking my carburetor as I'm using it as it warms.

Most likely if he has an adjustable carburetor, there are 2 screws, low and high speeds. Low speed is the side screw and the high speed is the bottom screw through the fuel bowl.


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