# 1987 Toro (38150) 826



## classiccat

SBFers...it happened again; I told myself, my family, my friends that the snowblower herd was done expanding.

However when a thread popped-up a few weeks back from a new member saying he was looking to unload a "bucket list" blower, the Old Iron noggin' gears started grinding again. (He now has a brand-spanking new Toro Powermax)

We exchanged a few PM's and quickly realized that we're actually old colleagues!

After some back-n-forth, we agreed on a price (_some new Chevy parts and a Chevy FSM_) and I hit the road this morning.

You don't want to read my yapping and I want to get out to the garage and get this bad boy throwin' white stuff again! :grin:

obligatory truck-bed shots:


















Unloading onto the OPE gurney:









She's in great shape!









Only crusty spots on the machine are the right side-plate: 








^^^ MAYBE I'll treat the rust (phosphric acid), prime and I have some toro Red that will match this pretty close...I like some patina. 

To get this old girl moving snow, it's a pretty short list:

clean out the fuel tank rust _(MMO & swishing-around some nuts-n-bolts)_
clean the original carb and bolt back on
install an impeller kit
order some x-tracs for these monster 8" rims
clean-lube-adjust the linkages
change the fluids (engine / gear case)
belt check

The left wheel clutch was seized...a little liquid wrench freed-that right up.

Thanks for stoppin' by!


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## Seaweed

Like your 4 wheel cart, too!


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## UNDERTAKER

*I see now you have 2 Different Tires on there. ANYHOO :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:*


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## UNDERTAKER

* "YO" BROTHER CC. Check your E-mail. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:*


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## paulm12

CC; what is "wheel clutch" on those units?

thanks


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## UNDERTAKER

paulm12 said:


> CC; what is "wheel clutch" on those units?
> 
> thanks


* They are These BAD BOYS. This is what I mean When I say GREASE THE BLOODY SNOT of Them. k:k:k:k:mg::emoticon-south-park*


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## UNDERTAKER

* Looks Like you still have it Green Grass out there in The Empire State. :icon_whistling::icon_whistling: Wish I was There Instead Cleaning up the 4 Inches of slop here. Now The Winds be a whipping from the Great White North bringing in that Bone Chilling cold Now. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:*


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## cranman

I see you got another Briggs for the stable....I've got that same blower...I think that Todd's "Senior" is one as well. I converted mine to pointless by swapping a 17 hp Intek coil from my vast pile of blown up lawntractors. I got sick of polishing points. We haven't had appreciable snow in Lakeville for four years....I'm dying to try out some of my "creations"!


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## UNDERTAKER

cranman said:


> I see you got another Briggs for the stable....I've got that same blower...I think that Todd's "Senior" is one as well. I converted mine to pointless by swapping a 17 hp Intek coil from my vast pile of blown up lawntractors. I got sick of polishing points. We haven't had appreciable snow in Lakeville for four years....I'm dying to try out some of my "creations"!


* YEP that is what "SR" Is. :wavetowel2:*


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## classiccat

Seaweed said:


> Like your 4 wheel cart, too!


Hey Seaweed; these carts (the gurney) are the nuts! Knees and back thank me; I got the idea from Bruce Pender on youtube. 



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *I see now you have 2 Different Tires on there. ANYHOO :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:*
> 
> * Looks Like you still have it Green Grass out there in The Empire State. :icon_whistling::icon_whistling: Wish I was There Instead Cleaning up the 4 Inches of slop here. Now The Winds be a whipping from the Great White North bringing in that Bone Chilling cold Now. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:*


Yeah it's strange that only one of the tires was replaced.

It was green; the snow started falling as soon as I got her in the garage.



cranman said:


> I see you got another Briggs for the stable....I've got that same blower...I think that Todd's "Senior" is one as well. I converted mine to pointless by swapping a 17 hp Intek coil from my vast pile of blown up lawntractors. I got sick of polishing points. We haven't had appreciable snow in Lakeville for four years....I'm dying to try out some of my "creations"!


Hey Cranman, i thought you had one. She's an '86 Briggs so electronic ignition with a STRONG spark...popping across a 1/4" tester gap! :thumbsup:


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## classiccat

paulm12 said:


> CC; what is "wheel clutch" on those units?
> 
> thanks


I think Brother PS93 got you covered on what they are.

Both engaged you have full traction and if you want to make turns easier in a specific direction, you pop the respective clutch (i.e. I predominantly make left turns so I'd pop the left clutch...simulated differential).


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## classiccat

When I drag an old machine home, i usually don't even try starting them...go right into diagnostics.

I pull the plug, squirt some oil in the cylinder, hook-up the spark tester and test the ignition (and safety/kill switches). 

This engine pops a strong blue spark across a large gap...thanks to the electronic ignition.

I then check compression...unfortunately this engine had almost none.

Inspecting around the head after getting the shrouds off, it was obvious why; roached head gasket, a few loose head bolts and 1 broken head bolt.










cooling fins right near the broken head bolt.


















Fortunate to still have a stud on there! I'll thread a nut on the clean threads, weld it and I should be able to walk that right out.

...additional fortune, this engine has a stator/flywheel combo!









Lastly, I don't see any leaks in the bottom of the tank...should be able to save this one. :thumbsup:


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## paulm12

classiccat: thanks for the answer. I also go through a similar process on new-to-me older engines. A few more questions for you

- how do the old Briggs engines compare to Tecumseh flat-heads of similar size? I have not yet worked on an older Briggs, and they seem to have some serious fans.
- what in-line spark tester do you use?

Looking forward to progress on the 826.


thanks


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## UNDERTAKER

paulm12 said:


> classiccat: thanks for the answer. I also go through a similar process on new-to-me older engines. A few more questions for you
> 
> - how do the old Briggs engines compare to Tecumseh flat-heads of similar size? I have not yet worked on an older Briggs, and they seem to have some serious fans.
> - what in-line spark tester do you use?
> 
> Looking forward to progress on the 826.
> 
> 
> thanks


* Those old BRIGGS are way better than those Gutless wonder of a so called engine.*


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## paulm12

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * Those old BRIGGS are way better than those Gutless wonder of a so called engine.*


why? what makes them better? design, parts, etc

tx


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## classiccat

paulm12 said:


> classiccat: thanks for the answer. I also go through a similar process on new-to-me older engines. A few more questions for you
> 
> - how do the old Briggs engines compare to Tecumseh flat-heads of similar size? I have not yet worked on an older Briggs, and they seem to have some serious fans.
> - what in-line spark tester do you use?
> 
> Looking forward to progress on the 826.
> 
> 
> thanks


The old Thexton is what I use for testing spark.

Briggs have the edge over tecumseh. _(You'll notice that Toro would put them on their higher-end / larger commercial machines.)_

In my experience, the Briggs flatheads run smoother than an electronic ignition Tecumseh. 

I still like the older points ignition Tecs; I can really get them to smooth out as well...I think in large part by taking the time to set the spark advance. 

If you take a briggs flathead apart, 2 things jump out; ball bearings for the main bearings and BEEFY valve springs and keepers (relative to those on a tec). Briggs are spec'd to run at slightly higher no-load RPM than a Tec. _ (I still don't exceed 3600 on them)_

Also, in my experience, the updraft carbs are super easy to start and tune (downside, they tend to leak more). Servicing/cleaning an updraft is easier too; fewer fiddly passages to monkey with and the emulsion tube / main jet screws out without splitting the carb.


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## classiccat

Last update for Day1 on the old girl.

Check out where Toro put the hex shaft...how sweet is that! 








^^ your typical belly pan mouse nest shot; the P.O. did say that he found a dead mouse in the flywheel shroud. 
^^^the friction disc isn't making great contact to the drive wheel so some linkage adjustments are in order.

General cleaning/degreasing with a WD40 wipedown / detail. 








^^ if you squint, you'll see that i was able to extract the broken head bolt (no welding required)
^^^ P.O. had saved the original carb (Thank you!!!) after slapping on a Chinese clone. I broke down the original carb and it looks awesome inside ...+ the throttle shaft is still tight; rebuild kit on-order.
^^^^ after an afternoon of swishing ATF around with a couple handfuls of 1/4-20 nuts/bolts, the tank has cleaned-up really well! You won't believe the crud that came out.


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## amuller

I have a 724 of that vintage. I like the way it blows snow but am not crazy about the controls. The wheel clutches are helpful but often a bit of a struggle to re-engage. Not sure if there's something wrong with the way I have them set up and lubed.


The Briggs on mine has no electric starter and no primer, but always starts with 1-3 pulls.



Have fun with it.


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## SemiChemE

Hey classiccat, good to see such progress already! Looking forward to seeing how that thing throws snow!


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## classiccat

amuller said:


> I have a 724 of that vintage. I like the way it blows snow but am not crazy about the controls. The wheel clutches are helpful but often a bit of a struggle to re-engage. Not sure if there's something wrong with the way I have them set up and lubed.
> 
> The Briggs on mine has no electric starter and no primer, but always starts with 1-3 pulls.
> 
> Have fun with it.


That's an odd combo...i wonder if it was repowered with a Briggs; TORO 724's always had tecs on them (PS93 will swing by and keep me honest).

Yeah, i believe if the expectation is that you can steer with them, you'll be disappointed. It still beats stopping the machine and pulling/reinstalling a pin to lock/unlock the wheels.



SemiChemE said:


> Hey classiccat, good to see such progress already! Looking forward to seeing how that thing throws snow!


Thanks! yeah, the guys on the forum will pull out the pitchforks if they catching me slackin' on the job :signlol:


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## classiccat

Marching-on,

*Valve Job.*
Valve clearances were on the money (0.005" and 0.010" on the intake & exhaust respectively). Someone had worked on these valves before; the stem bottoms had grind marks in them and the seat/faces were clean. I still did very light lapping and decarb.

these "c-clamp" style compressors rock...much better than the chop-stick style.









after Lapping: 









back together again: 









*Flywheel/stator cleaning/inspection*: 
If you work on Briggs snow engines, you'll need a special wrench to get the Clutch Starter off:









And if you're going to pull the flywheel, you'll need to buy an actual flywheel nut for using the B&S handy little puller:









some debris from the mouse nest: 









cleaned-up: 









Flywheel stator magnets are all there...and I thought it was neat that the key had the B&S logo; they really go all-in!









Clutch starter disassembled, cleaned and relubed (including the felt inside of the tube):









for assembly, the flywheel (clutch starter) gets torqued down to 65 ft lbs. 

I verified that the stator works, I was getting 2VAC just by spinning the flywheel with my drill (it's slow).


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## classiccat

*Fuel System: *
I've been soaking the original carb since yesterday (Gunk carb cleaner).

I pulled it out, sprayed it with aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air followed by a scalding bath with dawn dish soap in the ultrasonic cleaner (5min with the Ultrasonic turned on; the rest was heat-only).

I pull it out and do a quick rinse then do another soak in hot-water only and 1min of ultrasonic.









then immediately blast it with compressed air...and reassemble.








^^^ I need a new emulsion tube; the original was bent...probably by myself.

Lastly, the fuel tank is pretty snazzy inside. I've been swishing the insides with about 1# of 1/4-20 nuts & bolts with about 1qt of ATF...keep doing it until the ATF comes out clean.


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## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> That's an odd combo...i wonder if it was repowered with a Briggs; TORO 724's always had tecs on them (PS93 will swing by and keep me honest).
> 
> Yeah, i believe if the expectation is that you can steer with them, you'll be disappointed. It still beats stopping the machine and pulling/reinstalling a pin to lock/unlock the wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! yeah, the guys on the forum will pull out the pitchforks if they catching me slackin' on the job :signlol:


* He is talking about his 7-26. In the early years TORO Ran a 7HP BRIGGS on The 26 Inch cut. And the 8HP ENGINE was on the 32 inch cut. after 1975 or 1976 They changed over to the 8HP on the 26 cut. And the 32 inchers got the 11HP engine on them. I have never used those CLUTCHES to turn the machine myself. I just skid steer it or lift it up and turn in on the skids themselves. WEES a little bit Backwards country out here when doing that. not like youse High flooting city boys in New York. :icon_whistling::icon_whistling:k:k:k:k:*


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## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> *Fuel System: *
> I've been soaking the original carb since yesterday (Gunk carb cleaner).
> 
> I pulled it out, sprayed it with aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air followed by a scalding bath with dawn dish soap in the ultrasonic cleaner (5min with the Ultrasonic turned on; the rest was heat-only).
> 
> I pull it out and do a quick rinse then do another soak in hot-water only and 1min of ultrasonic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then immediately blast it with compressed air...and reassemble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ I need a new emulsion tube; the original was bent...probably by myself.
> 
> Lastly, the fuel tank is pretty snazzy inside. I've been swishing the insides with about 1# of 1/4-20 nuts & bolts with about 1qt of ATF...keep doing it until the ATF comes out clean.


* How come You Don't use that chem dip stuff that comes in A paint can?????????????*


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## UNDERTAKER

* As you can see in this Pic. I put a number 8 over the 7 spot. when the Engine that came off of "JR' Went on "SR". :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:*


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## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * As you can see in this Pic. I put a number 8 over the 7 spot. when the Engine that came off of "JR' Went on "SR". :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:*


All of this time that we've known each other, I didn't know SR was born long, long ago with a 7hp Briggs on there! 



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * How come You Don't use that chem dip stuff that comes in A paint can?????????????*


the carb soak I use is "Gunk" as mentioned earlier... I've had the same can for 10+ years.

Speaking of can, it's now unmarked (_near the kerosene heater_) as it ate through the seals of the original can!  :icon_wow2:


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## classiccat

*Honeymoon is over*

Well SBFers, we're on cruise control on the Briggs Flathead... so figured I'd get cracking on the auger while waiting on engine parts.

Remove the chute from the gear ring and size-up the impeller mod.

*Tiny Problem #1: *There's quite a bit of slop in the chute itself; the retainers are quite worn.








^^^ these things are $25 a piece from Toro! :signlol: Shade-tree route: i'll be adding material (thinking JBWELD) to close-up that gap.


*Tiny Problem #2*: and it stops hard when it its this little guide-break; i'll either file that down or drill a hole from the chute-side and spot-weld it.









Decent sized impeller gap so the impeller mod (baler belt) will do wonders.










*This is where the honeymoon ends;* *huge amount of PLY in the impeller bearing*. 

Well intentioned P.O.'s tried to compensate by building out the carrier so the bearing contacts that non-worn shaft.









It looks like this machine was run a LONG time with a bad bearing.









Consequently, all of that flopping around caused wear in the auger gearcase bushings/seals. 









A brand new impeller shaft (19-8540) is "only" $234.38 on parts tree.:signlol:

Needless to say, I'll be searching the used market for a new shaft.


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## classiccat

One thing about these old toros, they're made for quick disassembly / servicing.

with the pulley removed, remove the side panel bolts: 









Remove the 2 auger axle bolts and the auger/impeller assembly pulls right out.

















so I don't have to keep the handle bars propped up, i connected the auger housing with the chassis (along with 2gal of Kerosene for weight :smile_big









Impeller / Auger assembly on the gurney ready for surgery:


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## JayzAuto1

I'd be hard pressed to spend $250 on ANY kind of Shaft!!! And Not just because I'm cheap!!! But I have a couple of those, in good shape if you don't have a Plan B. 


GLuck, Jay


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## classiccat

JayzAuto1 said:


> I'd be hard pressed to spend $250 on ANY kind of Shaft!!! And Not just because I'm cheap!!! But I have a couple of those, in good shape if you don't have a Plan B.
> 
> 
> GLuck, Jay


I may have to take you up on that if I can't source one Jay! 

This shaft is hosed.

I was able to get it apart with a little heat and a few tons of leverage :devil:



















outer auger bushings took a beating as well.









EDIT: you CAN press these bushings out of the gearcase (I used a pilot bearing puller on 1 side)...definitely the hard way.









The easy way, press the bushing and seal out (same way the new ones go in).









the bearing and metal seal ring (I ripped the rubber off trying to use my seal puller):


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## SimplicitySolid22

Classic do those two controls on top (not front)of dash near handles do those control left and right wheel?????

Many controls on that model toro back then.


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## classiccat

SimplicitySolid22 said:


> Classic do those two controls on top (not front)of dash near handles do those control left and right wheel?????
> 
> Many controls on that model toro back then.


Correct; they're the wheel clutches; pulling up puts that side in free-wheel.


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## Ziggy65

Classiccat
That is a nice machine. Not that familiar with Toros, if you were looking for a vintage 60s,70s or 80s Toro to restore what one would you choose?


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## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> All of this time that we've known each other, I didn't know SR was born long, long ago with a 7hp Briggs on there!
> 
> 
> 
> the carb soak I use is "Gunk" as mentioned earlier... I've had the same can for 10+ years.
> 
> Speaking of can, it's now unmarked (_near the kerosene heater_) as it ate through the seals of the original can!  :icon_wow2:


* He was Born in The year 1974. I was 3 years old Back then.*


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## UNDERTAKER

Ziggy65 said:


> Classiccat
> That is a nice machine. Not that familiar with Toros, if you were looking for a vintage 60s,70s or 80s Toro to restore what one would you choose?


* TORO Never made Snowblowers in the 60's. Their 1st year out was 1971.*


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## classiccat

Ziggy65 said:


> Classiccat
> That is a nice machine. Not that familiar with Toros, if you were looking for a vintage 60s,70s or 80s Toro to restore what one would you choose?


Thanks Ziggy65! 

Restore to use or restore to look cool? 

Brutha PS93's Toro history page will lead you in the right direction.


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## Ziggy65

Thanks for the link to history page, will check it out.
Restore to use but not as my main blower, definitely to look cool


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## Ziggy65

POWERSHIFT93
Great job on the Toro history page, lots of info there. When it comes to Toros you the man!
Thanks


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## classiccat

PS93, you requested some close-ups of the wheel clutches; pretty sure this is an "aftermarket" DIY mod to get more throw (better engagement?)

Locked:









Free-wheel:









shot of the wheel pawls...are these excessively worn?


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## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> PS93, you requested some close-ups of the wheel clutches; pretty sure this is an "aftermarket" DIY mod to get more throw (better engagement?)
> 
> Locked:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Free-wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shot of the wheel pawls...are these excessively worn?


* A Little Bit.*


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## UNDERTAKER

* It Does not say on TORO.COM If you can still get those jaw hubs 4 your model. The 1's for mine are now NLA. Had BROTHER NCOVE Extradite the last 1 oot of Canada 4 me. :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:*


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## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> One thing about these old toros, they're made for quick disassembly / servicing.
> 
> with the pulley removed, remove the side panel bolts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the 2 auger axle bolts and the auger/impeller assembly pulls right out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I don't have to keep the handle bars propped up, i connected the auger housing with the chassis (along with 2gal of Kerosene for weight :smile_big
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Impeller / Auger assembly on the gurney ready for surgery:


* Putting those side panels with the spring loaded scraper bar back on is a REAL FUN JOB!!!!!!!!!!*


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## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * It Does not say on TORO.COM If you can still get those jaw hubs 4 your model. The 1's for mine are now NLA. Had BROTHER NCOVE Extradite the last 1 oot of Canada 4 me. :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:*


old iron ninja operation right there! :ninja



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * Putting those side panels with the spring loaded scraper bar back on is a REAL FUN JOB!!!!!!!!!!*


If i recall...easy as pie when you attach the springs before putting the entire assembly into the housing


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## classiccat

Slapped on a new snow hog to match the left side...really wanted x-tracs but paying $20 for 1 tire vs $60 for 2 makes more sense. 

Snow hogs grip great on my property anyway.

Easiest tire swap and bead setup yet...took more time to setup my tire change table.

Tires purchased online usually arrive deformed...so I blew up a tractor tube and stored near a heater inside.









8" seems like the perfect size for this HF changer. NAPA RU Glyde makes the rubber super slick:









The bead set right-up by just removing the schrader valve core and inflating with an air nozzle.


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## classiccat

Decarbed the head with throttle body cleaner and a nylon brush.









^^^ whoever "dressed" head last was waaaay too aggressive; I'm guessing 36g in a belt sander 

I went through several 60g sheets of emery cloth to get rid of these deep gouges...all the way up to 220g.









I actually had this muffler for Alice but didn't fit with her shroud...right at home on Noname!


















Spent the day buttoning things up including a few more seafoam rinses of the tank (to remove all of the ATF and debris).









All new fuel line, primer line and fuel filter.









After a final leakdown test (passed with flying colors!), I threw some fuel in the tank (No leaks!), changed the oil and she fired 1st pull!

A have some work on the speed control (_hopefully all external!_) but stoked about this machine! 

A few of my old iron brethren are hunting for an impeller shaft; if we can't find one, I have a plan B that just might work.


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## paulm12

Looking good CC. For reference, what do you consider to be good for leak-down tests on flat-head engines. I have tested a few, and just wondering what the ranges are.

tx


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## classiccat

paulm12 said:


> Looking good CC. For reference, what do you consider to be good for leak-down tests on flat-head engines. I have tested a few, and just wondering what the ranges are.
> 
> tx


thanks Paul!

She was reading in the 6-10% range but take that with a grain of salt since I was only at 50psi. With this engine, you can't button up the head without the shroud so I couldn't use the flywheel fins to lock the piston. The main thing for me is no noticeable air rushing into the crankcase...which i was sweating b/c i didn't rip it down far enough to measure ring gap. :smile_big:


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## 2.137269

nice work classiccat. nothing like a real old NON box store toro for how they are built . to me they were like a old B61 mack truck.


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## classiccat

87powershiftx2 said:


> nice work classiccat. nothing like a real old NON box store toro for how they are built . to me they were like a old B61 mack truck.


You bet! I would love to know what MSRP was of this machine back in the 80's! Build like a mack and purrs like a corolla; very well behaved engines.

A little update... the governor is squared away (re-synced the throttle butterfly / gov arm and found a spot where the arm was binding).

I installed clear primer hose (b/c that's what I had stocked) and I'm glad I did. The check valve had some crud in it and wasn't closing...i saw air bubbles going in both directions; the primer on these engines taps into the main fuel line and pumps a shot of fuel directly into the intake.

that's the hose nipple on the intake elbow:


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## 2.137269

built like macks they were, real steel,real motors, real everything . 20-30 years old or plus and still strong, 
very nice work classic


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## classiccat

Well folks, I think I may have found a way to milk out another decade or 2 from this impeller shaft! (as long as this bearing does its job).

Since this collared bearing has 2 set screws (120 degrees apart), I decided to add 3 keys by 1st grounding a flat for the key to sit on: 









Tack weld it in place (don't want to get the shaft too hot and have it warp on me):









then grind the keys close to the being level with the non-damaged portion of the shaft: 









Backfill the gaps with this stuff









I setup a manual lathe using jackstands, the bushings from the auger gearbox & the pulley for cranking.









then CAREFULLY file/sand (rinse and repeat about a 100 times)!








^^^ far from finished here but you get the picture now.



















Now i need to order some bushings/seals to rebuild the gearbox.


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## Grunt

Nice work CC, I'm sure I will use the homemade lathe trick sometime.


:rock:


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## classiccat

Grunt said:


> Nice work CC, I'm sure I will use the homemade lathe trick sometime.
> 
> 
> :rock:


Thanks Grunt!

I had an hour to kill waiting for that epoxy to setup...I left plenty of room for you to improve on the design!


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## classiccat

Quick update.

Popped the covers off of the "sealed" impeller bearing, removed the sorry-excuse for grease that was in there and packed it with marine wheel bearing grease.

Before: 









After: (sorry i didn't save the pic with the seal off)









There was are gouges where the auger gearcase rubbed against the impeller shaft from so much "flop" from the bad bearing.
Filled/smoothed with JBWELD.

















I'll do the same for the auger shaft...i'm putting to the 2 spots where the seals should contact the shaft.









New seals/bushings pressed into the auger gearcase housing:


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## JayzAuto1

C/C, That's a pretty slick way to save that shaft!!! Nice save!!!! I especially like the 'Manual Lathe' trick also....

I have a Snapper 826, same vintage as your Toro, also with the Briggs. It was a customer 'Donation'.... My favorite kind.
Although mine Does Not have the primer set-up. It Does have electric start, tho. Start very easily, considering all I did was Toss a Clone Carb on it...and it ran great. I've yet to test compression or spark intensity....it ran That Good. Put an impeller kit on it and It's easily one of the Better Performers. 

A few weeks ago, I picked up an 11HP Briggs, from a Toro 1132. I'm using it on one of my Wheel Horse, Work Horse Tractors, and it Does Have the Primer System....But it looked as if it was a home made system, kind of hacked in. But seeing your pix, I may put that on the Snapper. Looks like the same Carb and intake from a quick glance...

Question for ya.....What are you using for the head gasket?? Is it a stock Briggs Part?? Covered with Copper Spray Sealer?? I've seen that done a few times....

Or is it an actual Copper Head Gasket?? I've seen Copper Sheets at the Farm Store, sold as "Make your Own Head Gasket" stock....... Great Idea, but obviously, would not have a Fire Ring in it. It's sold in 2 different thicknesses.


Keep Up the Great Work!!! It will Look great next to your Wheel Horse!!!! Same Vintage...


GLuck, Jay


----------



## classiccat

JayzAuto1 said:


> I have a Snapper 826, same vintage as your Toro, also with the Briggs. It was a customer 'Donation'.... My favorite kind.
> Although mine Does Not have the primer set-up. It Does have electric start, tho. Start very easily, considering all I did was Toss a Clone Carb on it...and it ran great. I've yet to test compression or spark intensity....it ran That Good. Put an impeller kit on it and It's easily one of the Better Performers.
> 
> A few weeks ago, I picked up an 11HP Briggs, from a Toro 1132. I'm using it on one of my Wheel Horse, Work Horse Tractors, and it Does Have the Primer System....But it looked as if it was a home made system, kind of hacked in. But seeing your pix, I may put that on the Snapper. Looks like the same Carb and intake from a quick glance...


That Briggs powered Snapper is Mike C.'s favorite blower!

The primer is a gimmick; more hassle than its worth; i wish that i didn't waste the fuel line connecting it and just plugged up the nipple on the intake elbow.

Like you said, these engines already start so easy!




JayzAuto1 said:


> Question for ya.....What are you using for the head gasket?? Is it a stock Briggs Part?? Covered with Copper Spray Sealer?? I've seen that done a few times....
> 
> Or is it an actual Copper Head Gasket?? I've seen Copper Sheets at the Farm Store, sold as "Make your Own Head Gasket" stock....... Great Idea, but obviously, would not have a Fire Ring in it. It's sold in 2 different thicknesses.
> 
> 
> Keep Up the Great Work!!! It will Look great next to your Wheel Horse!!!! Same Vintage...
> 
> 
> GLuck, Jay


Man I'm kind of ticked at the head gasket that I bought. Its actually a Stens; the picture showed a true metal with a fire ring...and this is that single-use paper crap; 1st time you pull the head it splits apart...junk. The last Stens head gasket I bought was for my K181 and it was metal with a fire ring...i'll have to track down that seller and see if he sells them for Briggs. 

Yeah I coat them in Permatex Cu spray; I honestly don't know if it makes a difference. None of my engines have leaky heads so I can say that it doesn't hurt :grin:


----------



## classiccat

To commemorate the 2 week anniversary of dragging this beast home, I'll throw-up another update your way.

repairing those worn seal sections on the auger shaft:

wipe down with acetone then denatured alcohol, roughen up the metal then tape-off









Apply JBWELD and get it as thin as possible by mashing it into the grooves. I then scored it and pulled off the tape: 









This stuff is hard as a rock in 60min even in a cold garage. So right around the 1 hr mark, I removed the excess with a flapdisc...









then scrape down to metal with a razor.









ready for assembly...


----------



## classiccat

Auger assembly: 
Worm gear setup (I'm not showing the thrust washers here):









I pressed the main gear back onto the auger shaft (it has 2 keys)...and also packed the housing halves with Lubriplate Mag-1 grease.









1st insert the auger shaft through the left side casing...gear orientations are super critical here! The bushings get a fine coat of Loctite 242 (i assume so they don't spin in the housing):








^^^ the gasket goes in dry...except for the ends near the impeller shaft opening; toro recommends putting some grease down to hold it in place.

Then carefully slide the other half of the gear case housing on, put some antisieze on the bolts and torque to 120 inch lbs in a crossing pattern (sorry, no pics)


----------



## classiccat

Then the auger drums go on with the grade-5 bolts ("no bloody shear bolts" PS93!) 

Once the auger drums are on, now you in stall the scraper bar and side panels (with new bushings already installed and oiled)...and this is the optimum time to install the scraper bar spring as shown: 









the side panels are held to the auger axle with a bolt/washer at each end. The impeller is loosely attached here since I don't know where it will be placed just yet.









Now time to see if my impeller shaft hack fits! 1st the impeller bearing assembly is connected to the main housing. Then feed the impeller shaft through the bearing.









Get it to the point where I can bolt on the side panels...but don't secure the set screws just yet.









At this point, check for end play and I secured once it was centered in the play:








^^^ the bearing set screws get secured to those keys we welded in place last weekend.


----------



## classiccat

Once the impeller bearing set screws were secured, I then slide he impeller into place.

now we can work on the "impeller mod":

I drilled/tapped 1/4-20 holes in the impeller fins before assembly









Clamped in place and test for fitment all the way around the impeller housing: 








^^^ I marked the backside of the rubber using an angled pick heated up with a torch

This whale mouth is ready to install:









Thanks for stoppin' by!


----------



## classiccat

I can only imagine the low-opinion that SemiChemE had when he owned this machine...it was a real onion.

He only owned it for a short while and I don't believe it even ran...he was doing a relocating-friend a giant favor buying it from him. (_You all saw the condition of the entire auger assembly._)

Time to get the auger reconnected with its better half (btw, 3 2x4's is perfect prop height for mating the 2 pieces):








^^ dip the handlebars so the belly-pan goes behind the impeller pulley, drop the slots onto the lower studs, put the belt on the pulley and tilt-up inserting the 3/8 bolts in the upper holes (alot easier inserting inside-out).

Anyways, I get the machine back together and engage the auger to check belt tension...and it goes tight and then slackens. 

Between the jacked impeller shaft and this, there was no way that this thing could've thrown a single snowflake.

if you look at this picture, the auger handle is going too-far allowing the linkage rod to extend too far...and it comes to rest on the control panel which can't be right:








^^ if you look closely there's a notch built into that cam...which would make a nice stopper ...if only it was hooked up right!

Now to be fair, the owners manual for this machine appears to show it hooked up backwards:

















To fix, I had to put the limit switch bracket UNDER the swivel bracket so that the cam would fit.








^^^ which consequently is going to throw-off the friction wheel tension and location on the drive plate.

The shoulder bolts go through the cam 1st and the nuts/washers go on the bracket-side:









successful engagement! the cam stop is hitting the bracket and the auger belt is staying nice a tight:









Home stretch folks!

fix the chute retainers
weld the chute sprocket-ring (it has a giant stress crack) 
Address what I think is an occasional miss (either from the primer dumping extra fuel into the intake or the dreaded interlock module.)


----------



## Ziggy65

Classiccat,
Your skills and attention to detail are impressive. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain your work, especially the detailed photos. This thread will be the go to for anyone dismantling/repairing a Toro blower unit, also useful for other makes as well.
Thanks again


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> I can only imagine the low-opinion that SemiChemE had when he owned this machine...it was a real onion.
> 
> He only owned it for a short while and I don't believe it even ran...he was doing a relocating-friend a giant favor buying it from him. (_You all saw the condition of the entire auger assembly._)
> 
> Time to get the auger reconnected with its better half (btw, 3 2x4's is perfect prop height for mating the 2 pieces):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^ dip the handlebars so the belly-pan goes behind the impeller pulley, drop the slots onto the lower studs, put the belt on the pulley and tilt-up inserting the 3/8 bolts in the upper holes (alot easier inserting inside-out).
> 
> Anyways, I get the machine back together and engage the auger to check belt tension...and it goes tight and then slackens.
> 
> Between the jacked impeller shaft and this, there was no way that this thing could've thrown a single snowflake.
> 
> if you look at this picture, the auger handle is going too-far allowing the linkage rod to extend too far...and it comes to rest on the control panel which can't be right:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^ if you look closely there's a notch built into that cam...which would make a nice stopper ...if only it was hooked up right!
> 
> Now to be fair, the owners manual for this machine appears to show it hooked up backwards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To fix, I had to put the limit switch bracket UNDER the swivel bracket so that the cam would fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ which consequently is going to throw-off the friction wheel tension and location on the drive plate.
> 
> The shoulder bolts go through the cam 1st and the nuts/washers go on the bracket-side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> successful engagement! the cam stop is hitting the bracket and the auger belt is staying nice a tight:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Home stretch folks!
> 
> fix the chute retainers
> weld the chute sprocket-ring (it has a giant stress crack)
> Address what I think is an occasional miss (either from the primer dumping extra fuel into the intake or the dreaded interlock module.)


*That Switch is supposed to hit the top of the shifter bar. from the looks of it. it needs to go futher over. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:*


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> Auger assembly:
> Worm gear setup (I'm not showing the thrust washers here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I pressed the main gear back onto the auger shaft (it has 2 keys)...and also packed the housing halves with Lubriplate Mag-1 grease.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1st insert the auger shaft through the left side casing...gear orientations are super critical here! The bushings get a fine coat of Loctite 242 (i assume so they don't spin in the housing):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ the gasket goes in dry...except for the ends near the impeller shaft opening; toro recommends putting some grease down to hold it in place.
> 
> Then carefully slide the other half of the gear case housing on, put some antisieze on the bolts and torque to 120 inch lbs in a crossing pattern (sorry, no pics)


* TORO Specs 80/90 Weight gear oil in there. Just so you know. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:*


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *That Switch is supposed to hit the top of the shifter bar. from the looks of it. it needs to go futher over. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:*


Toro Columbo! 

The setup on my machine is actually 100% correct; these interlock module circuits are setup to hit the limit for auger-off and gears-Neutral. This is the same identical circuit on my '89 824 with the exception of 1 handlebar switch.

Notice the forward / large notch in that cam in the picture...that's for the limit switch when disengaged.










^^ for the machine to stay running, there needs to be continuity between the 2 connectors going into the module.




POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * TORO Specs 80/90 Weight gear oil in there. Just so you know. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:*


Interesting you recommend that. Man...I wish it was gear oil; this Mag-1 is &*%# expensive!

This auger gearcase had old Mag-1 when I cracked it open (still cream colored under the layer of black). Mag-1 is also spec'd in the owners manual for this machine.

I wonder if the old school cast iron gearcases use the 90w? :icon-shrug:


----------



## classiccat

Ziggy65 said:


> Classiccat,
> Your skills and attention to detail are impressive. Really appreciate you taking the time to explain your work, especially the detailed photos. This thread will be the go to for anyone dismantling/repairing a Toro blower unit, also useful for other makes as well.
> Thanks again


I appreciate you saying that Ziggy! I document it for us to point to something when someone comes along with similar problems. These old machines and engines are thrown to the curb when often the ailments can be inexpensively remedied with average mechanical abilities/tools.

so which *Toro *is on YOUR bucket list? :grin:


----------



## classiccat

Quick update.

The engine ran like a top tonight...no more occasional miss and I was finally able to get the carb dialed-in after pulling my hair out for an hour.


Cleaned the safety circuit electrical connections with CRC contact cleaner (someone used liquid electrical tape in the connectors! )
 permatex dielectric grease on all of the connections
 Added shunts for the handlebar switches; they're both busted.
 Main issue was the tank wasn't venting...holes in the cap were rusted shut :facepalm_zpsdj194qh (notice the coked-up muffler from trying to tune the carb)
 Primer delete

Before Primer delete:









After Primer delete: 









Lastly, I did a "stress test" on the impeller bearing yesterday and those set screws eventually slipped

A simple 2-part remedy; drill dimples into the metal keys for the set screws to sink into and use loctite on the set screws.








^^^ this really should be a keyed bearing collar! I recommend this mod even on a "good" impeller shaft.

We're gettin' there folks!


----------



## Ziggy65

so which *Toro *is on YOUR bucket list? :grin:[/QUOTE]

Actually I am thinking of adding another blower to the stable. What TOROs would you recommend from the 70's or 80's?


----------



## classiccat

Ziggy65 said:


> Actually I am thinking of adding another blower to the stable. What TOROs would you recommend from the 70's or 80's?


They're all cool and built like tanks but I've been after an 826 (or an 1132) for awhile; Briggs engines as well as the general serviceability and versatility. I like how you can adjust the speed range right at the control panel and the wheel clutches make turning a snap.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

*They changed that switch in the later years. the 1 on the Donor Machine has a larger gear shifter bracket. The arm of the shifter hits the switch lever. never touching the auger cam. I just ripped them off of there anyway.*


----------



## UNDERTAKER

Ziggy65 said:


> so which *Toro *is on YOUR bucket list? :grin:


Actually I am thinking of adding another blower to the stable. What TOROs would you recommend from the 70's or 80's?[/QUOTE] * The 70's model years had the non EPA Carb on them. k:k:k:k:k:k:*


----------



## classiccat

My chute flopped around like a bobble-head...









...unbecoming for such a stout machine.

1st of the fixes, addressing the broken guide ring weld: 









rather than repairing the internal spot weld, I decided to butt-weld from the outside. 

1st ground a notch: 









Then some grinder & file work: 









next...


----------



## classiccat

Worn retainers:









I made a bead of JBWELD stick and laid it in the upper lip of the retainer, draped some parchment paper over the guide and pressed it.









then trimmed with razor.









Once it cured, i scraped the JBWELD with a razor until it moves freely around the guide.

One thing I'd do differently since it doesn't adhere that well to this plastic even after cleaning with acetone. if i were to do it again, I'd roughen with heavy grit sand paper and drill a 2 or 3 holes in the retainer for the JBWELD to recess into. 

It's staying put for now...we'll see how it holds up for the long haul.


----------



## classiccat

Lastly the sprocket ring was busted probably leading to the most "bobble".









welded-up

I ground the undersides almost flat...leaving a little meat back there should be OK:









I kept the bead on the top-side for strength:








^^^ survived multiple strikes on the table.

SE primer + rustoleum tractor implement black paint and let it cure in the laundry room:









All back together again.










and a healthy coat of fluid film








^^^ smello-vision: my garage smells like blood-cheese catfish bait. :icon-sick:


----------



## paulm12

nice work on the chute wobble parts. I've had mixed results trying to build up material with JB weld, you're probably right on the adhesion part, a few holes could help lock it in place better. Or better yet, you could 3D print a new part.

thanks for the updates.


----------



## classiccat

Unplanned test run this morning before work; a moderately heavy snow/sleet mix (2-3")!




























Zero issues with the machine. I have to work on the throttle response a bit; low speed jet is a little too rich causing it to stumble for a second when it hits load (Briggs didn't make that jet easy to get to during operation.)


----------



## classiccat

*Tip for leaky Briggs shutoff valves*

A tip for old school Briggs owners with a leaky metal tank shut-off valve.

There's an o-ring on the valve stem that's likely compromised.

If you've rebuilt a few tecumseh carbs, the o-ring for the low-speed needle fits like a glove. :thumbsup:


----------



## classiccat

We had 2 light snowfalls this week...enough to "load test" the machine. The auger / impeller and chute fixes are holding up great!

I made videos but won't upload to YT for 2 reasons: 

The embarrassment of using a monster 2 stage machine to clear 3" of snow
The slight surge from leaning out the low-speed circuit necessary for correcting the stumbling when hitting load.

The carb is original but the jets, gaskets and seats are all scavenged just for testing. The only new part was the long emulsion tube...purely out of necessity. 

So I treated her to some new OEM carb bling last night.

old vs new high-speed jet (that i actually filed down and sanded just to get running) :laugh:









old vs new low-speed :laugh:









new Viton-tipped needle, gasket & reset the carb height (_these get set parallel to the body_):










I also ordered some tiny teflon washers (Briggs 4184) for the emulsion tube seat...this is to prevent them from leaking into the lower intake and onto your garage/shed floor. For some reason, you can't buy these separate but with a set of 10 roll-pins.


----------



## cranman

Thanks for the updates CC...great idea about the JB weld shim! Does Alice get jealous when you take out the redhead?


----------



## classiccat

cranman said:


> Thanks for the updates CC...great idea about the JB weld shim! Does Alice get jealous when you take out the redhead?


Thanks Cranman!

Alice is independent and self-confident with her new fancy shoes!

Besides, she's going to be very-happy with all of the new moves I'm learning with the redhead. :devil:


----------



## classiccat

*Toro Wheel Clutches*

If there's a topic in this thread that will have the interest of 526/726/826/832/1132 owners it's these wheel clutches.

Specifically, a TSB for getting a solid mesh between the clutch dogs and wheel hub.

Some time during this machine's storied history, a previous owner had an affinity for washer & cotter pin hacks!

You may have noticed earlier that there was a rusty piece of 1/8" stock being used to get more throw on the linkage.








^^^ It worked for the most part however that's a shoulder bolt that centers the traction assembly in the chassis holes. I don't recommend this fix.


it probably would've worked better if they didn't use a cotter pin to hold the pivot bracket to the engagement rod :laugh:








^^^ i replaced that with a 3/16" clevis pin from TSC.

They also jammed a washer in the bottom part of the bearing carrier.








^^^ They were on the right track however I don't recommend doing this either since it makes the bearing carrier loose!

I made some shims out of that 1/8" stock, cleaned and coated with Amsoil MPHD.









Bolted on top of the bearing carrier:









*I can't take credit for this idea...it's been floating around SBF for quite some time.*

cleaned out the clutch dog assembly (very similar to what's in an outboard lower unit).









Slopped up with waterproof wheel bearing grease & assembled: 









Solid engage/disengage on both sides:









Eventually I need to repair these keyways as well as the clutch/hub rounding.


----------



## squid3083

This is a lot of skilled work. My hat to you !!! Working on getting a powershift 1028 soon. 
Will loook up to 2 for advice.

Keep up the good work.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

classiccat said:


> If there's a topic in this thread that will have the interest of 526/726/826/832/1132 owners it's these wheel clutches.
> 
> Specifically, a TSB for getting a solid mesh between the clutch dogs and wheel hub.
> 
> Some time during this machine's storied history, a previous owner had an affinity for washer & cotter pin hacks!
> 
> You may have noticed earlier that there was a rusty piece of 1/8" stock being used to get more throw on the linkage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ It worked for the most part however that's a shoulder bolt that centers the traction assembly in the chassis holes. I don't recommend this fix.
> 
> 
> it probably would've worked better if they didn't use a cotter pin to hold the pivot bracket to the engagement rod :laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ i replaced that with a 3/16" clevis pin from TSC.
> 
> They also jammed a washer in the bottom part of the bearing carrier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ They were on the right track however I don't recommend doing this either since it makes the bearing carrier loose!
> 
> I made some shims out of that 1/8" stock, cleaned and coated with Amsoil MPHD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bolted on top of the bearing carrier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I can't take credit for this idea...it's been floating around SBF for quite some time.*
> 
> cleaned out the clutch dog assembly (very similar to what's in an outboard lower unit).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slopped up with waterproof wheel bearing grease & assembled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solid engage/disengage on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually I need to repair these keyways as well as the clutch/hub rounding.


*BROTHER C.C Check out where those Bearing were made. k:k:k:k:k:k:*


----------



## classiccat

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *BROTHER C.C Check out where those Bearing were made. k:k:k:k:k:k:*


Manitou Mfg Co. Direct from the "Frozen Tundra".

It looks like they're still in business! 

That's a $37 part on partstree  I wonder if Manitou still supplies them.


----------



## classiccat

classiccat said:


> I also ordered some tiny teflon washers (Briggs 4184) for the emulsion tube seat...this is to prevent them from leaking into the lower intake and onto your garage/shed floor. For some reason, you can't buy these separate but with a set of 10 roll-pins.



In an effort to stop this engine from markin' her spot (with fuel!) I installed a teflon washer at the base of the emulsion tube (there is a Briggs TSB for this fix.)

When you get the pack of roll pins & washers, you'll swear that they only shipped roll-pins! The washers will probably be stuck to the side of the bag.









It fits really tight to the emulsion tube...in fact, I ruined the 1st one trying to get it on. Carefully use tweezers to get it on and walk it down the emulsion tube.









I ran it this afternoon and parked it...so far so good.

The top-half of the carb body is warped pretty bad (right above the low-speed jet)...I think this is also fairly common; you can't dress it flat like you can the bottom half so I doubled-up the gasket and stopped that drip as well.

Have a nice weekend folks and stay warm!


----------



## leonz

Sadly for me I can no longer use an arc welder; gas weld yes, but no arc welding anymore due to the toy in my chest.

Hopefully when/if I get the new snow mule I will be able to remove all the parts- wheels, auger shafts, augers, auger bearings and impeller without too much trouble to slop on the never sieze, load the tires and install the snow chains and clean the hex shaft and readjust the location of the traction tire to slow down the first speed. 

Yes wifey; I would not be here according to my cardiac witch doctor- she hates it when I call him that 😂.


----------



## 140278

leonz said:


> Sadly for me I can no longer use an arc welder; gas weld yes, but no arc welding anymore due to the toy in my chest.
> 
> Hopefully when/if I get the new snow mule I will be able to remove all the parts- wheels, auger shafts, augers, auger bearings and impeller without too much trouble to slop on the never sieze, load the tires and install the snow chains and clean the hex shaft and readjust the location of the traction tire to slow down the first speed.
> 
> Yes wifey; I would not be here according to my cardiac witch doctor- she hates it when I call him that 😂.


your not alone,


----------



## classiccat

Knockin' the dust off of this old thread with a little *Briggs Flo-jet* How-to.

I fired up the machine earlier in the week and she's markin' her spot again.

This time from the doubled-up gaskets to address the warped carb. I also found a pinhole leak at the edge of the atmospheric circuit "BB".

I'm guessing someone in the past used this lip to try and pry the carb apart with the emulsion tube still in there (_you may recall that the original tube had a little dog-leg in it_)

Using the feeler gauges, 0.018" shim easily fit in there.

gap with gasket removed:









atmospheric circuit plug pinhole:









You can't dress the offending part like you would a cylinder head (_sheet of emery cloth over a flat surface_)...float hinges, venturi, etc are in the way.

I tried to be cute and use lapping compound but you can only rotate the halves a few degrees. After only making incremental gains on the offending gap, I decided to address the warp directly.

*WARNING: do not continue if you're squeamish. *

So I busted out the LFH (BFH's little brother), Some scrap oak and 3 #10 washers.









The washers provide a gap for the warp portion to deflect to. Feeler gauges monitor progress.

with washers in place, hold the oak where the arrow is shown and strike the wood cautiously but firmly with the LFH.









after a few light strikes, I was able to close the gap and it now seals up with 1 gasket as designed  .









I also lowered the float a smidge below parallel with the body.

So to summarize if you have a leaky *Flo-jet*:

teflon washer on the emulsion tube
lower the float a smidge from parallel (the massive bowl holds like a pint of fuel, you'll be fine )
fixed the warp top-half.
fixed a pinhole gap between the atmospheric plug & carb body (with some nail polish).
No more leaks and ...now it probably won't snow either .


----------



## classiccat

The machine performed nearly flawless in Gail's dumping; 30-35" depending on where I measured.






Reverse-slipping is the only hangup...either that sloppy axle keyway or the wheel clutch wear is worse in that direction (I can flip the wheels to see if it shows up in forward).

Oh...and I need a set of drift-cutters!


----------



## Ziggy65

What an excellent excellent video. 

That Toro is unstoppable, you do great work. I think the market value of vintage Toro's just doubled or tripled in price.

I think Alice and Old Orange deserve a walk around the yard, if you think they are up for it? 😨


----------



## classiccat

Ziggy65 said:


> What an excellent excellent video.
> 
> That Toro is unstoppable, you do great work. I think the market value of vintage Toro's just doubled or tripled in price.
> 
> I think Alice and Old Orange deserve a walk around the yard, if you think they are up for it? 😨


Thank you Ziggy; the machine's performance definitely exceeded my expectations! 

It's a very heavy machine but surprisingly nimble; well balanced and a pleasure to use. 

The Allis Chalmers would be a kid in the candy store with XTracs & drift-cutters!

I think the '71 Ariens 524 would do OK with small bites and alot of clutch goosing .


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## Grunt

classiccat said:


> The machine performed near flawlessly in Gail's dumping; 30-35" depending on where I measured.


Great job keeping the old iron alive. Purrrs like a mad CAT and as always, "Outstanding Video".


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## classiccat

Grunt said:


> Great job keeping the old iron alive. Purrrs like a mad CAT and as always, "Outstanding Video".


Thank you Brother Grunt! It does have a feline growl when that throttle plate opens up!

I'm also keeping old cotton alive... That's my grandfather's beanie from the 70's


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## Ziggy65

Beanie? 
Come on, that's a toque 

This is a beanie:


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## classiccat

Ziggy65 said:


> Beanie?
> Come on, that's a toque


In my nearly 5 decades on this great earth...i never once heard it called that  !


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## Ziggy65

I know, in Canada it's a toque, never heard it called a beanie until I came to this sight.
As your head ware has the ball on top, I think it is definitely a toque


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## PhilThefarmer

it allow you to enable each wheel independantly from each other, this allow the operato to turn on a dime, in the 1980's, it was an amazing feature


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## PhilThefarmer

amuller said:


> I have a 724 of that vintage. I like the way it blows snow but am not crazy about the controls. The wheel clutches are helpful but often a bit of a struggle to re-engage. Not sure if there's something wrong with the way I have them set up and lubed.
> 
> 
> The Briggs on mine has no electric starter and no primer, but always starts with 1-3 pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun with it.


If you look closely on the wheel, you'll see that it is very simple, it just need to be well align with the wheel to engage correcly, if it doesn't want to engage, just turn the machine about a 1/8 of a tun and retry to engage it


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## classiccat

Maybe I'm late to the party on this one but shout out to @Kiss4aFrog for recommending these 3A AC/DC converters! 










For you 826/1132 Toro guys, they're a perfect fit right under the control panel (_clears the wheel clutch rod_); no drilling was required as I used the existing mounting holes for the console.

The 18w Cree lamp is just mounted on some angle I had laying around...i riveted the bracket to the angle but you can bolt it on:









^^^ I have the entire traction assembly ripped out at the moment; addressing the machine "chain skipping" in reverse. Missing thrust washers &/or worn wheel axle may be the culprit.



















I bought 2 converters...so now I suppose I should buy lamp for Alice (she already has a flywheel/stator already) !


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## maicoman2

With all due respect great work but life is way too short.Those machines are a mess the 70 Sno-Hound 20 is the grandfather and the most simple and effiicient design.All the work you did Id much rather get a new Honda.Ill keep my 6 Snow Hounds just in case.


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## classiccat

maicoman2 said:


> With all due respect great work but life is way too short.Those machines are a mess the 70 Sno-Hound 20 is the grandfather and the most simple and effiicient design.All the work you did Id much rather get a new Honda.Ill keep my 6 Snow Hounds just in case.


I love when someone begins a comment "with all due respect" then proceeds to say something disrespectful.

If a guy wanted to brag about having a fleet of little single stage machines, maybe a fella should start his own thread. Hopefully the thread contains a video of a snowhound smashing a 3' snowfall and 4' EOD...on a sloped driveway.


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## maicoman2

classiccat said:


> I love when someone begins a comment "with all due respect" then proceeds to say something disrespectful.
> 
> If a guy wanted to brag about having a fleet of little single stage machines, maybe a fella should start his own thread. Hopefully the thread contains a video of a snowhound smashing a 3' snowfall and 4' EOD...on a sloped driveway.


Sorry did not mean to be disrespectful.You sir have excellent skills and I understand the allure of keeping an old machine as good or in your case better than new.Now my 20 can handle 16 inches but thats the limit.It has accomplished this fact for over 50 years.I bought new in 69.I was just saying Ive done less work in over 50 years than you did in one .The Snow Hound is the King.


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## paulm12

classiccat: I re-watched the video (had seen it earlier). Thanks much for providing all that info, I may never have this version Toro, but I picked up a few more tips. And excellent work. 

tx


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## asavage

ClassicCat: what brand/model is your small equipment lift, and do you like it? I've been thinking about buying one for around a year, but have been fence-riding, and it seems there's a variety of quality on these units.


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## classiccat

asavage said:


> ClassicCat: what brand/model is your small equipment lift, and do you like it? I've been thinking about buying one for around a year, but have been fence-riding, and it seems there's a variety of quality on these units.


I use it all of the time! 

Your back will thank you...but your wallet will be a little mad! It was cheaper when I bought it a few years back...and had coupons.
1000lb Hydraulic Cart


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## asavage

I was afraid you might say that. I've looked at that HF unit several times, but reading the reviews always backed me away from purchasing. The price is right, but no parts are available and dozens of people complain about internal leakage, and rebuild seals unobtainable. 

I buy from HF, but only purely mechanical things (wire brushes, platform dollies, one-off large wrenches, etc.). Fifteen years ago I worked for a shop that loved HF, and every month boss would bring back more of their stuff. I had a large bin of dead HF tools with burned-up electrics and leaking hydraulics. So HF hydraulics is a non-starter for me.

Grizzly used to sell a hydraulic lift cart, but they don't seem to carry one anymore. There's a large Grizzly store about two hours north of me, that's a bit far to just go browsing, and there's no longer anything in their online catalog like your rig.


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## classiccat

asavage said:


> I was afraid you might say that. I've looked at that HF unit several times, but reading the reviews always backed me away from purchasing. The price is right, but no parts are available and dozens of people complain about internal leakage, and rebuild seals unobtainable.
> 
> I buy from HF, but only purely mechanical things (wire brushes, platform dollies, one-off large wrenches, etc.). Fifteen years ago I worked for a shop that loved HF, and every month boss would bring back more of their stuff. I had a large bin of dead HF tools with burned-up electrics and leaking hydraulics. So HF hydraulics is a non-starter for me.
> 
> Grizzly used to sell a hydraulic lift cart, but they don't seem to carry one anymore. There's a large Grizzly store about two hours north of me, that's a bit far to just go browsing, and there's no longer anything in their online catalog like your rig.


ah yea, i don't dispute the integrity of that hydraulic cylinder; it's junk. I've had to bled (refill) multiple times. Eventually I'll probably swap it out with something industrial grade. The table itself is stout...including the casters.


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## asavage

I'll put up with a lot of nonsense, but I draw the line at fighting my own tools. Thanks for the confirmation on the hydraulic cylinder. It sure sounds nice to have the workpiece up at at no-bending-over height.

---

I picked up a 1985 826 38150 from a feller offa CraigsList last weekend, $100 "it's supposed to run, gas tank off & very rusty", around a 3-hour round-trip drive but great weather that day so I didn't mind. Now, it's in pieces all over my garden shed (my garage is too full for a project of this size), and I'm really appreciating your many high-quality pictures in this thread. Mine hasn't had as many fingers in it as yours had, but there are still discrepancies I've discovered by comparing yours and mine; the parts diagrams are not very helpful in some cases, though better than nothing.

I vinegar'd the fuel tank, which led to ordering a replacement, as it'd been cracked/soldered/patched long ago and really is not worth my time to apply muriatic acid, tank sealant, etc. just to retain the original patina and Idaho dealer sticker: I'm not restoring this one, I want to use it, not showcase it. New tank'll be here next week.

The impeller shaft is likely to look like yours; yesterday, all afternoon working on removing the impeller sheave, with enough heat and LOTS of beating on the ball-joint pickle fork, it's halfway off -- ran out of light out in the garden shed. There's clearly wear of the shaft at the bearing collar, though not as bad as yours. Today, I'll get to really inspect it.

And like that. Thanks again for your pics.


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## classiccat

I got a “new” toy (mainly for recording fishing/boating) but thought I’d play with it while slinging the white stuff yesterday!

I put up an “unlisted” video of an 826 ride-along (_It’s unlisted b/c it’s not an impressive snow accumulation and I didn’t feel like doing any editing_.)






We got about 6”…pretty dense as temps shot up to 40 degrees. 

I preemptively leaned out the mixture on the old briggs updraft…and you can see at the end when the temps started cooling again I had to richen the mixture up 1/8 turn.

I cleared the back of my property 1st with the old 910 Ariens and I could hear it get rich by the end of job (pop...pup-pop...pup-pop-pop 😆 ).


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## asavage

Since I've never used my 38150 (1985) and it's still in several heaps around the kitchen, garage, and garden shed, I appreciate this vid.

What's the model of your new toy (cam)? The 1080 quality seems quite good.


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## paulm12

nice. I can't remember does that one have the impeller mod?


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## asavage

paulm12 said:


> I can't remember does that one have the impeller mod?






(Clicking on the picture above is _supposed_ to take you to the post where he installs the impeller mod, but my browser puts me at the post above that one (you have to scroll down). Can't trust technology!)


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## classiccat

asavage said:


> Since I've never used my 38150 (1985) and it's still in several heaps around the kitchen, garage, and garden shed, I appreciate this vid.
> 
> What's the model of your new toy (cam)? The 1080 quality seems quite good.


Thanks! Recorded with a GoPro Hero 7 Black…picked it up used of course.



paulm12 said:


> nice. I can't remember does that one have the impeller mod?


Thanks! Yeah this machine has baler belt on all 4 impeller fins.


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