# Rookie Mistake



## Clearview60 (Jan 1, 2014)

As I've stated once before, I finally broke down this year and bought my first snowblower. Between the manual and the great advice here, I'm trying to do all the right things so that she works great and will last a long time. 

We've been hit hard here in Maine thus far; ice storms, frigid temps (-16.2 at 6:30 this morning), and over 2-1/2 feet of snow thus far. 

After each use I take great care in letting her cool down for a few minutes at a slower idle, all while gently brooming her clean of snow/water on the outside. When I shut her down, I usually try to broom out (hands never enter inside) any snow in and around the auger & housing. I also take a peek down the chute.

Rookie mistake alert!! Yesterday, when taking her out again to clear off an additional 6" that mother nature left us overnight, I started her up like I normally do & allowed her to warm up for a minute or two. BUT once I started going and went to engage the auger she died instanly. I review of the interior revealed that ice had formed around one of the impeller blades!! Can only assume the machine had melted remaining snow when she was still warm during the previous use and then froze up on me. I pulled off the spark plug wire, sprayed some de-icer on the ice, and was able to eventually clear her of ice with the scraper provided with the unit. Lucky for me, she started back up and worked fine. I hope there's no damage that was caused???????

Lessons-learned; I guess I run the auger a bit during the cool down stage to clear as much out as I can AND do a visual inspection before each use??

Thanks.


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## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

Icing the impeller is much easier to do withe newer units because the gap between the impeller and the housing is so small. What you did is very common. I have even done it once. The real lesson here is to always check for a frozen impeller even if you are sure you cleaned it well after the last use.


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## Colored Eggs (Dec 7, 2012)

Most likely the only damage that can be caused is the belt getting a flat spot or burnt completely up. Now. A complete rookie would have just keep trying and trying till the belt was completely broken or beyond repair so I believe you graduated


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

After im done using the snowblower, I shut it down completely, (turning off the engine)
*then* brush the snow off..getting into the bucket and impeller housing as best I can with the brush..
when it not running, you can really scrape a lot of snow loose..I also use a long stick, about 3/4" by 1.5" by 18"..(I think it might be a "1x2")
to get into the bucket and auger area..I *never* stick my hands in there, even when the engine is off..

then start it back up, engage the impellers and auger briefly, which spits all the loose stuff out, then put it back in the garage..

Scot


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## mkd (Dec 31, 2013)

what's the best way to check if the impeller is froze?


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Depending on the model, it should freewheel a bit when everything is disengaged..
some might be stiffer than others though, depending on how the belts work..
but on my '71 Ariens, the augers and impeller will spin by hand when the tractor and auger levers are in the "off" position..(with some mild force..they arent *really* loose, but I can move them.) I can take the "snow clean out stick" and give the impeller a shove, and it should move a bit..

test out your machine when you know its *not* frozen..then you will know how its supposed to act when its not frozen..then you can test to see if it is *is* frozen before you start it up..if it is frozen, it wont move at all...remember, use a stick! not your hands..

Scot


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

I do not idle the motor to 'cool it down', since these are air cooled engines.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

I usually clean it out a bit, then bang the bucket on the ground a couple times and engage the auger again to throw anything dislodged.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I have a big piece of cardboard that I put over the machine and leave a small heater in there for a couple hours. I usually keep it there 'till I see everything is clear and dry. I have to admit that I don't look in there real carefully before use. I just glancce a little to see if anything may have inadvertantly got placed in there. So far I've been very fortunate. No problems so far but I'll be checking from now on.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

WestminsterFJR said:


> I do not idle the motor to 'cool it down', since these are air cooled engines.


I dont either..no sense in that for a snowblower..
and for mowers, riding mowers and garden tractors, lowering the RPM to "cool down" is a BAD idea! because it actually creates the opposite of a cool down..it creates a heat-up! Air-cooled engines need to run at full RPM for proper cooling, and proper lubrication..running them at low RPM actually heats them up, reduces cooling, and reduces lubrication, to the point that could destroy the engine!

Our small gas engines are much happier at high/full rpm than they are at low rpm..

The only time low rpm is "good" is at initial startup..but then 5 to 10 seconds on "low" is enough..just enough to get the oil flowing..then crank them right up to full speed..

In the winter, on a snowblower, overheating isnt as big as a concern as it is for a summer lawnmower..but still, the same concepts apply.

I shut down my snowblower by moving the throttle from "full" down to "off"..which lowers the RPM until the engine is off..but its a 5 second slow down between full and off..No need to idle at "low" any more than that. and extended "low" idling (for several minutes or more) is generally a bad idea.

Scot


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## Snowmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Clearview60 said:


> As I've stated once before, I finally broke down this year and bought my first snowblower. Between the manual and the great advice here, I'm trying to do all the right things so that she works great and will last a long time.
> 
> We've been hit hard here in Maine thus far; ice storms, frigid temps (-16.2 at 6:30 this morning), and over 2-1/2 feet of snow thus far.
> 
> ...


 
With the machine you are using you would not damage it with a frozen impeller. The dual belt auger system cannot be overpowered by the engine. That said, if the impeller freezes you'll snub the engine rather than smoke a belt. Burning a belt is possible, perhaps likely with a single belt system.

Your model has a freeze resistant impeller (the back-plate has a small diameter with the drawn/cupped blades providing structural integrity). Impellers with back-plates that extend to the full impeller diameter are more prone to freezing. Unfortunately no impeller is freeze-proof. You should run the impeller for a minute or so after using the machine to clear out as much residual snow as possible before you put it away.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

I actually spray down the inside of my impeller & auger housing with a good water repellant after each use. I've used WD-40 and PB-50 with good results. Also keeps things from rusting over time.


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## Clearview60 (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks for all the feedback and great advice, I will certainly start applying it. Treated her to her first oil change yesterday using Ariens 5W30 oil. Been reading the threads discussing synthetic vs. conventional, not sure which way to go once I've used up my remaining conventional oil.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

I wouldn't waste the $$ on Ariens oil. It's just re-badged oil from whomever happened to give Ariens the lowest price so they could then mark it up to make their profit on it. At least that's how it works in the auto industry. 

FWIW, I use German spec Castrol Syntec 0w30.


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## GreenMtnMan (Jan 5, 2014)

One thing I do when I start to use it is I gently engage the auger slightly. That way you can detect if it is frozen. But I have never had one freeze up yet.


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

sscotsman said:


> I dont either..no sense in that for a snowblower..
> and for mowers, riding mowers and garden tractors, lowering the RPM to "cool down" is a BAD idea! because it actually creates the opposite of a cool down..it creates a heat-up! Air-cooled engines need to run at full RPM for proper cooling, and proper lubrication..running them at low RPM actually heats them up, reduces cooling, and reduces lubrication, to the point that could destroy the engine!
> 
> Our small gas engines are much happier at high/full rpm than they are at low rpm..
> ...


Good to know Scot, thanks. I was thinking just the opposite and have been idling my machine for 5 minutes or so before I shut her down.
I stand corrected. Thanks again.
Larry


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## Surge (Dec 31, 2013)

Clearview60 said:


> Thanks for all the feedback and great advice, I will certainly start applying it. Treated her to her first oil change yesterday using Ariens 5W30 oil. Been reading the threads discussing synthetic vs. conventional, not sure which way to go once I've used up my remaining conventional oil.


Check your owner's manual, or the manual for your engine. The recommended type of oil should be noted in one of those manuals. 
My engine specifically calls for 5W30 Full Synthetic Oil. Everyone has their favorite brand. Just make sure that whatever you choose meets the specifications for your engine and you should have no problems.


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