# Oil change question and general engine question



## Globe199 (Dec 10, 2012)

I need to change the oil in both my snowblower and lawnmower. It occurred to me that I could use some sort of cheap hand pump instead of tipping the beasts over and draining the oil. That could be messy and potentially unsafe.

I'd rather not spend $50+ on something designed to do this. I think I could rig up something with a cheap plastic tube. Has anyone out there done this or could you recommend something?

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Also, a general snowblower engine question. I bought a new MTD (maybe 22-inch?) from Costco last winter and only used it twice because of the lack of snow. We got a foot yesterday and it worked fine for clearing that.

But the engine on this thing is baffling to me. I am a total novice with small engines. But I've owned a Craftsman lawnmower for four summers and never had one lick of trouble starting it. I even started it last February to test the gas I bought when I could not start the brand new snowblower. The lawnmower took several hard pulls, but it eventually fired up.

On the other hand, this snowblower's engine is just the most fickle thing I've ever seen. Why does it have a choke and a primer but the lawnmower does not? Is it because it's intended to operate when the weather is cold? Why does it seem like it's so much more complicated than my lawnmower's engine?

And yesterday I ran out of gas while plowing my driveway. Wow, was that a mistake. I do this all the time with my lawnmower. Refill it, pull the rope, and it's roaring. But the snowblower just got pissed. I refilled it and it took about 20-30 seconds with the electric start to get it going! This is after running for a good 15 minutes! Why??

Any insight would be appreciated!


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

hello globe, welcome to SBF. the choke aids cold engine starting. when you ran out of gas did you use the choke? if you did you shouldn't have


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## Globe199 (Dec 10, 2012)

detdrbuzzard said:


> hello globe, welcome to SBF. the choke aids cold engine starting. when you ran out of gas did you use the choke? if you did you shouldn't have


That's what I thought. After refilling, I left the choke in the run position. I did not push the primer. In other words, I simply filled it and tried starting it, leaving all settings alone. I figured a warm engine should just start with no trouble even after running out of gas.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Not to sound mean or anything, but I think you just need to familiarize yourself with the controls on the engine, what they do and the appropriate times to use them.

Most engines have drain bolts in the bottom for getting the oil out. Snowblowers usually have an extension pipe that comes out the back of the blower, but some have it on the side. Normally you can unscrew the cap and tip the machine back a bit to drain the oil. Lawnmowers usually have a drain bolt under the deck where the blade is. Your manuals should tell you how to change your oil. Make sure to pay attention to how to properly check the oil level because too much oil can be as bad as too little oil.

You have different controls on the different engines simply because they are different manufacturers.

It would be best to get the manuals that came with your equipment and follow those directions, but I will try and help.

Throttle: Most engines don't have an adjustable throttle these days. If yours does use about 1/2 - 3/4 throttle to start the engine and let it warm up a bit. Use full throttle whenever using the machine. Let the engine run at the lowest throttle setting when you are finished to let it cool down.

Choke: Turn this to [ON/Choke/Start] when starting an engine that hasn't been ran in the last 5 minutes or longer. Some engines are set so lean these days they the choke needs to be set anytime you start it. Immediately after the engine starts move the choke to about half way and then gradually move it all the way to [OFF/Run] after 1 - 3 minutes.

Primer: Push this button about 3 times before starting the engine. It ads some extra fuel to the engine to make it easier to start. I am betting you didn't do this after it ran out of gas and that is what was giving you trouble.


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## Globe199 (Dec 10, 2012)

The manual says to set it at full throttle when starting, so that's what I did. I only ever adjust the throttle down when shutting it off. Otherwise I'm always at full throttle.

Primer: I did prime it a few times, but only after it didn't start immediately. Still, even after priming it three times, it STILL took many seconds on the electric start to get it going.

So maybe I do need to turn the choke on and prime it after refilling. Or next time not run out of gas


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

A lot of engines require choking to start even if you turn it off for 5 seconds to get something out of your way. It is just a byproduct of the EPA and their mandate to make the engines use less fuel.

Just choke it, start it then unchoke it.


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## Globe199 (Dec 10, 2012)

Shryp said:


> A lot of engines require choking to start even if you turn it off for 5 seconds to get something out of your way. It is just a byproduct of the EPA and their mandate to make the engines use less fuel.


Which is ironic, because doesn't choking it send unburned fuel out the exhaust? It sure as heck smells like it.

But back to my other question, and I suppose it's small engine theory -- why doesn't a plain old walkbehind mower have these controls?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Globe199 said:


> But back to my other question, and I suppose it's small engine theory -- why doesn't a plain old walkbehind mower have these controls?


Some engines are just different. Most Biggs and Tecumseh engines have an automatic choke so it is there, but there is no control for it. Meanwhile most Honda engines and their copies have no primer. I have no idea on that other than maybe because the carb is closer to the engine?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I forgot part of your oil change questions though. Any tube that can syphon can be used to suck the oil out. If you are careful you could use a regular hose, but I always ended up with a bad taste in my mouth with that method 

Also, it is best to run the engine for at least 5 minutes before draining the oil since hot oil will carry the dirt better and make sure the engine is clean inside. The downside to that is you can burn yourself pretty bad so be careful.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Refueling*



Globe199 said:


> Primer: I did prime it a few times, but only after it didn't start immediately. Still, even after priming it three times, it STILL took many seconds on the electric start to get it going.
> 
> So maybe I do need to turn the choke on and prime it after refilling. Or next time not run out of gas


Here's something not mentioned: you ran the tank dry. Not knowing your particular blower or engine, here's some general info for an engine with a carburetor with a fuel bowl. Even when the tank is dry there's a little gas left in the carb, that's what the engine was running on till it ran out so you have both a dry tank and a dry carburetor. You fill the tank, it first must refill the carburetor bowl then get to the engine. 
Typically if I run out of gas, I add gas to the tank then let it sit for about 30 seconds or so to get the carburetor bowl refilled. If you hit the primer you can hear the difference is it's just pushing air vs gas if you listen carefully. Usually it's only a couple of hits on the primer to get some gas to the engine then you can restart the engine. If there isn't gas getting to the engine, it's going to take more turns of the engine before the engine will restart because it's got to suck it from the carburetor. Typically I don't need to use the choke unless it's been stopped for more than 5-10 minutes.

If you happen to have a diaphram carb etc, then it would be different than the above.


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## Globe199 (Dec 10, 2012)

Thanks for all the information, guys.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

i used lucas 5w-30 when i did the oil change on the craftsman and the toro 826


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