# Noma (Murray) 627104X8....Auger cable bracket cracked



## Zack1978 (Nov 6, 2014)

Hi everyone,
I am in the process of repairing/restoring a snowblower for my mom to use at her home. As the title indicates, the machine is a Noma (Murray) 627104X8. The machine seems to run fine, the only big issue is that the bracket that holds tension on the auger cable has cracked off the body of the blower. The bracket that I am referencing is directly in front of the belts, under the plastic cover. The aforementioned bracket has a notch in it, that allows the auger cable to be attached to it. 
In looking at the cracked piece (which is still attached to the auger cable), it looks like it simply formed an L when it was intact. Given the location of the bracket, and the proximity to the belts it seems like it would be very difficult to weld in there. Is there a way to remove the front section of the blower? It looks like the front section is simply bolted on, but how would I go about removing the shaft that drives the augers? That shaft seems like it would not allow me to remove the front.
Would it be best to attempt to weld the broken piece back on? I have a MIG welder. Would it be better to fab a new L bracket, and bolt it on? 
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated, as I really want to make snow removal a breeze for my mom. 

Thank you,
Zack

PS: I am sure I will have more questions along the way dealing with this machine.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The front half should just be held on by 4 or 6 bolts. Have to remove the crank from it too. For the augers those usually come out by removing the large pulley in the back and then there is usually 2 bolts on each side holding the shaft to the side. Once those are removed the whole assembly will slide out the front. You probably only need to remove the pulley, but if you go that far it might be a good idea to open the front gearbox and replace the grease.


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## Zack1978 (Nov 6, 2014)

Well I found a video on Youtube that shows that only the auger belt needs to be removed to separate the front section. Once it is separated, would it be best to weld the metal tab back on, or attempt to fab a new L bracket?


Also does anyone have a picture of the metal tab intact, to insure that I set it up properly? I have no reference point.


Thank you,
Zack


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Try 2:36 here.


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## Zack1978 (Nov 6, 2014)

Ok I need a little more help please....
I spoke with a retired small engine repair guy today who is very well versed with Noma snowblowers. He noted that the tabs usually break because the cable gets seized and people press too hard on the handle. 
He also said that some of Noma's had the L bracket bolted on as opposed to welded. He thinks the bolted on L bracket is still available, but he has no part number. Does anyone have any ideas as to,part numbers for the L bracket?


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## Pythons37 (Nov 9, 2012)

MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY Diagram & Parts List for Model dp826e585317 Noma-Parts Snow-Removal-Equipment-Parts | SearsPartsDirect

I think this is what you are looking for. Probably you will have to fabricate something to square away that bracket. I have an identical NOMA machine. This is a brute to operate. It also will need an impeller kit to make it work well in wet, sloppy snow. It will move snow. But, it's heavy and tough to turn. Traction is good, but I don't have any hills to deal with. Good luck, but think about a much smaller and lighter machine for Mom.


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## Zack1978 (Nov 6, 2014)

Pythons37 said:


> MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY Diagram & Parts List for Model dp826e585317 Noma-Parts Snow-Removal-Equipment-Parts | SearsPartsDirect
> 
> I think this is what you are looking for. Probably you will have to fabricate something to square away that bracket. I have an identical NOMA machine. This is a brute to operate. It also will need an impeller kit to make it work well in wet, sloppy snow. It will move snow. But, it's heavy and tough to turn. Traction is good, but I don't have any hills to deal with. Good luck, but think about a much smaller and lighter machine for Mom.


What is the impeller kit?


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## zumpa21 (Feb 8, 2018)

Old thread but I just replaced the bracket on my Murray Ultra 5/22. The bracket was part number 340579.

Thanks for the info on the cable. That may be what caused my bracket to brake in the first place.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Do a search for impeller modification, and you should see something .
Sid.


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## murray1575 (Jul 23, 2019)

You are lucky if your auger pulley comes off as easily as this one. I am working on a similar machine and mine is stuck on the shaft. I have been soaking it in PB Blaster every day for almost a week and if I can't remove it by tomorrow I will buy a puller and drill two holes in the pulley and also heat it up with MAPP gas before using the puller on it...buyer beware if you buy a used Murray machine and have to remove the auger system to work on it. Toro has a better idea using setscrews to hold the pulley on the shaft instead of that big nut on the end. I guess those can get stuck too and they aren't easy to reach.


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## Agjura (Dec 24, 2020)

Zack1978 said:


> Hi everyone,
> I am in the process of repairing/restoring a snowblower for my mom to use at her home. As the title indicates, the machine is a Noma (Murray) 627104X8. The machine seems to run fine, the only big issue is that the bracket that holds tension on the auger cable has cracked off the body of the blower. The bracket that I am referencing is directly in front of the belts, under the plastic cover. The aforementioned bracket has a notch in it, that allows the auger cable to be attached to it.
> In looking at the cracked piece (which is still attached to the auger cable), it looks like it simply formed an L when it was intact. Given the location of the bracket, and the proximity to the belts it seems like it would be very difficult to weld in there. Is there a way to remove the front section of the blower? It looks like the front section is simply bolted on, but how would I go about removing the shaft that drives the augers? That shaft seems like it would not allow me to remove the front.
> Would it be best to attempt to weld the broken piece back on? I have a MIG welder. Would it be better to fab a new L bracket, and bolt it on?
> ...


Zack, I am trying to replace the auger belt on the same machine and every belt I have gotten so far is too loose to engage correctly. Does anyone have any part numbers that could help? This is the part# that I have used 5854416 no luck.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Agjura said:


> Zack, I am trying to replace the auger belt on the same machine and every belt I have gotten so far is too loose to engage correctly. Does anyone have any part numbers that could help? This is the part# that I have used 5854416 no luck.


585416 is standard, I have the same machine but 9hp.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

Agjura said:


> Zack, I am trying to replace the auger belt on the same machine and every belt I have gotten so far is too loose to engage correctly. Does anyone have any part numbers that could help? This is the part# that I have used 5854416 no luck.


welcome to the SBF 
ZACK most likely won't answer you he was last seen Jan 6, 2018 almost 3 years ago,
loose belt are you sure something else isn't wrong that's not bringing the tensioner down enough to engage the auger,


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## Agjura (Dec 24, 2020)

captchas said:


> welcome to the SBF
> ZACK most likely won't answer you he was last seen Jan 6, 2018 almost 3 years ago,
> loose belt are you sure something else isn't wrong that's not bringing the tensioner down enough to engage the auger,
> 
> ...


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