# need a bit of help



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i replaced the motor on my Ariens with a cheap motor and it seemed to run and start great in the summer but now that winter is here and i decided to start it it seems to take more to start than i think it should. i was now wondering if there is any upgrades that i should have done to it to make it run better. i think i read running a larger jet might help but don't want to be wasting money if it won't help.
this is the engine i got
6.5 HP 196cc OHV Gas Engine | Princess Auto


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

I do not think the filter on the air cleaner helps. but then I have been wrong a million times before.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

my snowblowers never had a intake air filter....!!

If your has a filter.....take it off


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

you might need to mod the air filter housing so some warm air gets to the carb like some of the guys using predator motors did


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

It doesn't have a primer does it? That'd be a help. And as everybody has pointed out, the air cleaner could be a problem.maybe not with starting but when you begin blowing snow the carb may freeze. It needs a heater box around it.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

if all the above suggestions dont work, them bore the main jet a bit with a torch tip cleaner. my honda clones starts first pull in 20 degree weather with full throttle and full choke, they are hard to start when in idle just like the real hondas


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

crazzywolfie said:


> i replaced the motor on my Ariens with a cheap motor and it seemed to run and start great in the summer but now that winter is here and i decided to start it it seems to take more to start than i think it should. i was now wondering if there is any upgrades that i should have done to it to make it run better. i think i read running a larger jet might help but don't want to be wasting money if it won't help.
> this is the engine i got
> 6.5 HP 196cc OHV Gas Engine | Princess Auto


 
you might consider a rebuild on the old one, then swap them


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## Trac209 (Nov 18, 2014)

I'm my experience the Honda clone engines seem to run better with a slight bit of choke applied. I know it's not a perfect solution but it's a common compliant. Also they don't really like very cold starting period. I use one at the moment on my gilson and -20 things are a bit stiffer and it's not a one pull start engine.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I say go with the larger jet idea. You can order them online or carefully enlarge yours. I used torch tip files on one, but the smallest file barely fit. Gustoguy used floss and some kind of polishing compound on his. If I have to do another one I have some micro drill bits I picked up at Harbor Freight. Just make sure you do it by hand and not using a drill. It only takes a little bit.

Could also be a little bit of dirt or bad gas from what was in there in the summer so maybe it will clear up.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

thanks. as far as i know the air cleaner should be their. i haven't even looked. the gas should still be good. it is ethanol free and new as of late September. i guess i will order a couple jets to try out and see what happens from there. 

the engine does also not have a primer. i considered possibly installing one


greatwhitebuffalo said:


> you might consider a rebuild on the old one, then swap them


no even an option. the old one had broken head bolts, cam shaft, crank gear and who knows what else. not worth fixing. sold it for $40


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Snow blower engines don't come with air filters. They can freeze up and restrict airflow. Winter time isn't dusty so they don't put them on. So far my replacement engines still have the filters. Some people remove theirs, but I figure I will leave mine on the engine until I have issues.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ya i know snow blowers don't normally have filters. i just figure the engine should not have been as hard to get running as it was. the engine was pretty much covered so the filter should have been clean and not frozen yet.


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## EddyCurr (Nov 18, 2013)

Wolfie.



According to the manual, the p/n #8088379 6.5 HP engine IS
equipped with an air filter. This suggests it is NOT primarily
intended for winter operation.
You might test Princess Auto's 'No Sale Complete Until You Are
Satisfied' warranty by asking to exchange this model for one of
their 7 HP "Winter" engines with E-start, primer, a-cleaner delete
& ect. If you have already begun to tinker, all bets might be off.
What weight of engine oil is in the crankcase?
If your first fill was 30W in Sept, then drain and replace.
Choose 5W-30 and consider paying a bit more for synthetic.
There is also a 0W-30 synthetic by Mobil for extreme low temps.
Remove and inspect the spark plug. If wet with fuel, use a
electrical contact cleaner spray to clean/dry. Or replace plug
with properly gapped substitute.
It does not appear that an optional e-start is offered for this
engine by Princess. You could ask them on line or at a store.
If you decide to proceed with jetting or other carb changes,
approach Princess. Some of their manuals advise that they stand
ready to assist owners with such matters

My vote is to find your receipt and go back to the store to ask
about swapping first ...

.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i got new jets on the way i am going to try that first. i currently got some shell 5w30 in it.

as much as the winter engine would be nice i don't think it is worth the extra $150 more


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## EddyCurr (Nov 18, 2013)

The price for the 6.5 HP 196cc summer engine on the link you provided
is 189.99. The price of the 7 HP 212cc Winter Gas Engine was $249.99,
ending today. So, a $60 premium for the electric start, primer, heat
shroud, a-filter delete and cold weather tuning.

Perhaps you purchased your engine at a previously lower price or on
sale.

Your 5W-30 (mineral?) is what is recommended for these temperatures.
While synthetic in the same wgt or the 0W-30 version can be expected
to offer less resistance at low ambients, you could do as well or better
by sticking with what you have and keeping the machine inside at
something above 0ºC/32ºF when not in use.

If by 'jets', you mean main jets, be aware that m-jets influence the
upper mid-range through wide-open fuel delivery characteristics.
Along with this there are idle and low speed circuits to consider.
If you can locate a detailed service manual for the carb on your
engine or at least one for a carb similar in design to yours, then
prospects for success in this venture will improve.

.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ya i got the engine when it was on sale for $100. i figure the snowblower was worth putting that much into it but not worth too much more than that. 

it is just conventional 5w30 motor oil. i know people recommend running synthetic and 0w30 would probably be the best for a winter engine but i figure i might wait until till next year to switch to synthetic. 

the high range is where the engine will spend most of its time so as long as it will runs better and possibly start better then that is what i am going for.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

You don't want an air cleaner. Set it up with a heater box around it; the carb.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i figure i would leave the air filter in unless i run into issues with it. i usually cover the motor when it is not in use so it should be fine.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

ask the company you purchased it from.....maybe they have some ideas for winter use.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

that is funny. i doubt they would know much. they would probably just suggest i spend more money and buy a winter engine.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ok we finally got enough snow to use it today. i had it running yesterday just to make sure all was good. go to start it up today and it starts on the 2nd pull. seemed to be running pretty good for the most part except i think the stock main jet is too small. i was able to do most of my snow blowing with the choke partially on but but sometime the idle would start going up and down and i would have to turn the choke fully on for a couple seconds to keep it running then i could put it back to where it was and it would run fine again. i am guessing this is from the main jet not being large enough because there was a couple time where it stalled all together and i thought i was out of fuel but it still nearly had a full tank. throw the choke on and it fires back up and good to go. new jets are on there way but wont be here till possibly tomorrow and maybe Monday. there was a back order on the one jet


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

Another thing to check is the governor rod and spring that run under the gas tank to the carb. If the spring get iced up the governor can't function properly and it will idle up & down as you noted. I had problems with this last season and after trying a few different things, I found that spraying it with fluid film helps the snow and water from sticking to the spring long enough to freeze.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

*"need a bit of help"
*All you need to do is take your engine and do the things to it that a winter engine comes with. Or you can wait until you're using it and it dies or has no power and then do them.
Two big things, pull the air cleaner off. Then build a box to help the carb pull in warm air off the engine or muffler and also inclose/protect the throttle and governor linkage from snow.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

the air filter is not the issue. i was already checking that. it is actually protected from the weather pretty good. the linkage has been clear. i have been checking that also. it still want to idle up and down when the choke is fully off.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

It's called hunting or surging and it's from not being properly set up for denser cold air. When you get the new jet in there you should be all set then.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

hopefully the jets get here sooner rather an later but i can't control the weather or postage. they just cleared customs this morning. with the way the weather has been today they probably wont be here till Monday or the beginning of next week some time. 

i did spend at about 6 hours moving snow today and other than the surging it was actually throwing the snow pretty good. cleaned off my driveway plus 4.5 other driveways and some sidewalks. the only thing that i have been thinking is i need a wider blower for next year. 20" is not big enough for all the snow i move.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well the jets show up today and i decided to swap in the 0.036" jet and it seems to be running a bit better. the popping out the exhaust does not seem as often as it was with the stock main jet. i guess we get to see how well it does with snow next time we get some snow.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

crazzywolfie said:


> the air filter is not the issue. i was already checking that. it is actually protected from the weather pretty good.


First I would remove the air filter (not the box) as it may be the cause of your problems, when you operate in freezing weather= no problem with the air filter however if you operate around 32 or 33 degF then the humidity is high and ends up in your filter fibers, then if you operate in freezing temp again (below 32 degF) there would be a slight choking as if you encounter freeze defreeze cycles the filter will eventually clog up with frost and choke too much.

Next, I think a .036 jet is too rich as HJames quoted before in another thread with 212 predator engines.

"
I wouldn't go bigger than .32. With that said the stock is .28 and if you're up for opening the stock jet I think .30 is perfect "

My opinion; remove filter then install a .30 jet and work your way up until surging disappear keeping in mind the temperature you make the trials with so preferably cold. Good Luck

Ok I reread thread and I see it's a powerfist engine so jet size may not be the same than a Predator.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i am not too worried about the filter since i am certain that is not the issue. 

i got the jet in there in i didn't order any jets smaller than .034" so i am am going to try it out and see. i also read in another thread that you should not run a jet larger than .037" so i am pretty sure i should be safe. i really need some more snow to test things out.

the larger jet did seem to get rid of most the popping out the exhaust which was more noticeable at night when you could see it popping out the exhaust.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

crazzywolfie said:


> i really need some more snow to test things out.the larger jet did seem to get rid of most the popping out the exhaust which was more noticeable at night when you could see it popping out the exhaust.


I agree that more usage will tell the story on correct jet size. Popping from the exhaust could be caused by the carb, incorrect timing or valve clearances not correct. I would not THINK it is mechanically out of tune on a new engine, but something to remember if it continues.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i am starting to think there might be an issue with the engine. with the larger jet the engine stalled a couple times in a lot less time than the stock jet while under load. i tried going with the 0.034 jet and it would still just stall randomly even when it was just sitting there idling


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well finally got enough snow to really test it out and so far so good. i think it might have stalled on me once but seemed to run pretty good and strong today with the choke all the way off. it seemed to be throwing snow at least 25+ feet. i am wondering if it just needed more time to break in since the engine was still fairly fresh. i originally did the normal break in run and oil change but maybe it wasn't long enough.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

crazzywolfie said:


> i am wondering if it just needed more time to break in since the engine was still fairly fresh. i originally did the normal break in run and oil change but maybe it wasn't long enough.


 Normally you have to break in your new engine for 5 hrs under load use.
Good Luck


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i couldn't put to much load on it when i broke it in since there was no snow on the ground. it just got the auger engagement and odd drive around. if i was to guess i think i got at least 15-20 hours on the engine so maybe that is all it took. if it wasn't so cold and snowy out i would consider changing the oil again but doubt that will happen until summer time.


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