# Headlight/Handwarmers Issue...



## news82 (Nov 8, 2015)

Hi,

I have an Ariens ST1028SLE (Model 924109) with a Tecumseh 10hp Engine (Model HMSK100). I just purchased a heated hand grip kit from Ariens (part # 72100800) and have installed it successfully. The issue I'm having is that when I have the handwarmers on, the Ariens stock headlight (part # 02478100) dims way down. I'm imagining because between the handwarmers and the incandescent light bulb that it's too much for the alternator. My solution was to replace the incandescent bulb with an LED bulb which requires far less wattage to run. So far, the two 1141 bulb LED replacements that I've tried have blown out a minute after running whether the handwarmers are running or not. Does anyone have a solution for this issue?

The other question I have is whether the handwarmers are AC or DC? I'm guessing DC, but I haven't found anything from Ariens leaning one way or the other. I just want to be 100% positive that the light and handwarmers can function on the same power.

Also, if the alternator can't support both the headlight and the handwarmers at the same time, does anyone have a solution for supporting both?

Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts!!!

-Scott


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The LEDs require far less *amperage* to run. Amps are what you are lacking from the electrical system.

The hand warmers don't care if it's AC or DC and it's possible you have AC and DC since it didn't come with LEDs and AC is what the system produces. They have to add ( more $$$) to convert AC to DC so as it's cheaper, it's likely AC. The other thing is without a regulator like needed on a riding mower with a battery to maintain 12-14 volts you engine is likely running up around 18-24 volts ??

Depending on the LEDs, they may not handle that much voltage or the AC might be knocking them out.

EXACTLY ... what 1141 replacements are you using ??

What is the full model number of the engine. That should tell us what amperage it's capable of producing.

Do the hand warmers get hot ??


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Sorry, Welcome to the forum :white^_^arial^_^0^_

This might help : http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...rading-your-snowblower-lights-led-lights.html


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## news82 (Nov 8, 2015)

*RE:*

Thanks "Kiss4aFrog"!

Here are the bulbs I've tried...

Gold Stars 11568302
Sylvania 1156

If everything is DC, my guess is that everything should be fine. My only qualm is if I need a resistor or not and what type...

Thanks very much for all your input so far!!!

-Scott


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

News 82. Read thru the first couple pages of the LED Light link Kiss provided you. The rest is just model specific questions.

In a nutshell, you need a resistor to clean up the dirty voltage, which is why your blowing your LED lights right away.

I had hand warmers installed on my fathers 1982 ST1136. Like you the headlight would dim down when the hand warmers were flipped on. I installed LED's with a bridge rectifier and capacitors and made a world of difference. He is going on his second season with no issues. 

Good luck. If you try to tackle this job yourself,take your time and read that LED thread a couple times, I did and it really helped me.


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## cvisinho (Nov 9, 2015)

I just wired one of these guys up to my older 924
lights up like a champ. 
Just cut and added some waterproof connectors to the factory harness.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DR67P9I?keywords=nilight&qid=1447091327&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8


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## news82 (Nov 8, 2015)

Hi everyone,

Thanks very much for all the information so far. I'm going to look up the exact engine model and get back to you Kiss4aFrog. I think it's going to come down to an amperage issue here as the hand grips do get hot. My guess is that it's too much amperage for the bulb to handle if the hand grips aren't turned on. Has anyone had any luck throwing a resistor inline with the headlamp? Please let me know. Thanks very much everyone!

-Scott


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## news82 (Nov 8, 2015)

Hi everyone...my exact engine model is HMSK100 159433W (H)...the engine family is XTPXS.3582BF. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

From what I tracked down it's supposed to support 18 watts. That's the same as my 70's 1032 driftbreaker. It's capable of powering up a single 18W flood light. It's producing AC and that might be why the LEDs are popping.
I'm surprised it's able to heat the hand warmers.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> From what I tracked down it's supposed to support 18 watts. That's the same as my 70's 1032 driftbreaker. It's capable of powering up a single 18W flood light. It's producing AC and that might be why the LEDs are popping.
> I'm surprised it's able to heat the hand warmers.


 Normally some handwarmers pull 20 watts so in essence while taxing slightly the coil, it has not much left for a light bulb.
For my setup I use the AC for my hand warmers and have added a 12 volt battery to power my 27 watts Led Light. I have a battery maintainer with quick connects to recharge the battery though I have over 5 to 6 hrs of use on one charge. Just a thought and I can post pics if he wants to.


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## St1032 (Sep 25, 2015)

I am very interested in this thread as I have just ordered a cree 18w led that I plan to install with bridge rectifier. My plan was to also install Ariens heated grips. This project is on a 1996 Ariens ST1032 10 hp Tecumseh (924084) that has factory light installed. (Ditching the old light in favor of the single 18w cree)


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## St1032 (Sep 25, 2015)

update.. The 18w cree led works perfectly with $5 full wave bridge rectifier from radio shack. I will get the heated hand grips installed next week and report back. I would think our stators are the same.


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## news82 (Nov 8, 2015)

All:

The full wave bridge rectifier solved my issue with the led bulbs blowing. I now have the headlight and hand warmers operating as intended. Thanks very much to everyone for all your input and assistance!!!

-Scott


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## Bolens93 (Nov 24, 2015)

Another headlight/handwarmers/power issue...I don't think I'm getting the full potential of lumens available due to a possible lack of available DC output. I have not metered my output nor checked the flywheel/stator but my stock wiring is set up for electric start, warmers, and light. Being that stators ranging 18W - 84W are available I'm thinking I may have towards the higher end since my stock inline fuse is 7.5amps.

I have no need for electric start but because the length of my drive is no quick job, I would like, in addition to grips and lights, want to power my beverage warmer. 

My question is, IF I am at the low end, can I add an Adjustable Step Up Converter which would allow me to adjust, keeping appropriate range of Volts and Amps so as not to fry anything, yet take advantage of the increased watt output generated?

I have zero electrical intellect and my research and reading in an attempt to educate my self has given me a migraine.
.......my guess is, I am not even on the right path in my thinking and it can only be achieved by upgrading flywheel/stator. 

*My wiring* - Bolens 1026 Owner's/operator's Manual (Page 25 of 26)
.....I additionally installed fuses and on/off switches for both the lights and warmers.

*My lights* - 2X 6inch 18W LED Work Light Bar Flood Beam Offroad Driving Fog 4WD Lamp Ute SUV | eBay 

*Could I install one, and if so, a recommendation, and how?*


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## rzawalic (Oct 1, 2021)

news82 said:


> All:
> 
> The full wave bridge rectifier solved my issue with the led bulbs blowing. I now have the headlight and hand warmers operating as intended. Thanks very much to everyone for all your input and assistance!!!
> 
> -Scott


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## rzawalic (Oct 1, 2021)

Scott I have a 1996 Ariens snowblower 1236. I love the snow blower I love useing it every winter and I'm not getting rid of it but I do want to put hand warmers on it and I like the idea that you used the (full wave Bridge rectifier) I will pick one up but what hand warmers number for the kit should I get ?? I need to know what kind of hand warmer kit they should pick up.?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Cotton gloves inside my insulated, waterproof mittens are my handwarmers ... never get cold, always toasty ..... 

BTW, also a good head covering and good footwear are key.

I use an insulated helmet liner, and the yellow heavy duty rubber high construction over boots over my work shoes .. rubber is a waterproof, great insulator ... note also, using a plastic bag over your work shoe first allows the boot to slide in and out of the over boots.


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