# Pullcord flywheel not engaging. Is it fixable? Photos and vids inside



## snowballah (Sep 8, 2020)

Toro 824 Model 38080. Old late-1970s era.

The pull cord on this snow thrower never worked (I bought it used last year). Electric ignition works and starts up just fine. But the flywheel doesn't engage on the pull cord at all. Which sucks for me if I need to turn off the snowblower and I'm nowhere near an outlet.

Here's a video of the cord being pulled:

What are these two pieces? I found them sitting loose in the flywheel assembly when I un-screwed it. I think they're the starter recoil dogs? Are they damaged? How are they supposed to fit inside?
There is some damage to the plastic component inside the recoil assembly/hub. Sorry if that's not the technical term I just don't know what their proper name is. Is this damage of any concern?
What is this spinning, propeller-like part at the 0:15 mark of the video? And is it supposed to spin?
I've searched high and low and haven't been able to find any info on what the inside of this recoil assembly is supposed to look like when properly assembled. No helpful YT videos. I even consulted the Service Manual linked on this subforum but it not applicable to a snowblower of this era.

I found this Rewinder Starter Diagram on Jack's Small Engines but it doesn't show the underside of the recoil assembly- only the topside. So not very helpful.

Here's my first attempt at it re-assembly:










But I'm missing those small clamps (numbered "5" in the exploded diagram).


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

They should be just "E" clips ..... can get them anywhere ... I have a case of assorted from Harbor Freight ... but any hardware store or big box should have them. Some "C" clips probably would work as well ...

Just make sure you get the right size, where they click on and wont fall off.....

When properly assembled under spring tension ... you should pull the cord and those arms should fly outwards and grab the opposing flywheel.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

The C of E clips go over those posts. There are 2 tiny weak springs underneath that fit in to holes in the plastic pull cord housing and the dogs. The springs are critical, they pull the dogs back close to center after each pull of the cord.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i don't know if the other members looked at your links but i would say you likely need to epoxy those pins back into place. the c or e clips are easy to get


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## snowballah (Sep 8, 2020)

Thanks for the pointers everyone.



Oneacer said:


> When properly assembled under spring tension ... you should pull the cord and those arms should fly outwards and grab the opposing flywheel.


Is this the opposing flywheel that you're talking about? If so- that component just spins freely. I can flick it and it just spins like a loose, tiny helicopter propeller. Is it supposed to do that, or is it supposed to be tightened down and stay frozen in place?









Here is a video clip after my first attempt to reassemble. It isn't grabbing anything. I don't think I did it correctly. Does the video show what I'm doing wrong?



JLawrence08648 said:


> The C of E clips go over those posts. There are 2 tiny weak springs underneath that fit in to holes in the plastic pull cord housing and the dogs. The springs are critical, they pull the dogs back close to center after each pull of the cord.


I do have those springs- they look intact. But I don't think I'm placing them correctly. Here's a side view of my attempted placement of the springs. Also I'm not sure which holes in plastic pull cord housing you are referring to. There seems to be some damage. Is this bad news?



crazzywolfie said:


> i don't know if the other members looked at your links but i would say you likely need to epoxy those pins back into place. the c or e clips are easy to get


Will do that. But before I do that- the pins have a textured side, and a smooth side. Which side gets epoxied down into the assembly, and which end faces "up"?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

You are not pulling the cord fast enough to spin the dogs out.

The springs have to grip on something. When you push the dogs out with your finger, the springs should have tension on them though slight. After you stop pulling and especially when the engine starts, the springs bring the dogs back in.

The rough end of the pins get epoxied in, the grooves face up so the clips fit in the groove.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would probably just replace that broken, worn out rewind assembly if it was me. The whole thing is cracked in half with pieces missing.

Look for a donor or eBay, Marketplace, Craigslist, etc ....

BTW, ... I was referring to the flywheel that opposes that piece, .. i.e., the big round finned piece that that starter pull unit bolts onto.


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

Oneacer is right. If you can locate the entire assembly for a decent price, it would make sense to replace it. 

Do you have the model# of the motor? If you do, you can search on some of the parts websites to find the entire assembly. It will be an easier repair I would think. It may cost a little bit more, but consider if you would be keeping the machine for a long time, or if it is on its way out.


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## snowballah (Sep 8, 2020)

Unfortunately my area doesn't have many of these kicking around. And if they do the pull start never works. I'll likely just use it til it dies and replace the whole thing once a good deal pops up. Thanks everyone.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

I have heard those called an Eaton Style starter but do not know the origin of the term. The proper name for the broken part is rope sheave. That type of recoil was used on many Kohler 2 stroke snowmobiles during the 1970s. Whether or not the parts exchange, I do not know.

Rope Sheave


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

those plastic pieces that the pins sit in definitely look in really bad shape. i would maybe consider trying to replace it with the newer style pull start.


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## snowballah (Sep 8, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> those plastic pieces that the pins sit in definitely look in really bad shape. i would maybe consider trying to replace it with the newer style pull start.


I think that'd be the best approach. But is there any way of knowing which pull starts are compatible with my particular model? There are a few Toro 824s that are a bit of a drive out from where I'm at but quite frankly all of them look beat to hell.

Is there a way to start up a snowblower WITHOUT using a pull cord like in this YT video? Here's what my flywheel looks like on the inside. I'd be fine with a "hack" approach like this so long as I can start up my snowblower when I'm not near an outlet.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just because they look beat, the pull mechanism could be fine.

I never in my life seen a pull mechanism so destroyed like yours is.


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

Snowballah- what is the manufacturer of your engine? 

Once you know that, go online and look up where on the engine the model and serial number are stamped on the engine. 

When you find that, you can look up a parts breakdown for that model online at a site like Jacks Small Engines, and find a part number for the pull cord assembly.


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

If you engine is a Tecumseh, it should be stamped in the top of the motor, towards the pull start. 

Take a look here Parts – 824 Snowthrower | Toro


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## snowballah (Sep 8, 2020)

Update: I did manage to find an equivalent model through a local neighbourhood group. He even dropped it off to me. Can't believe my luck.

My recoil assembly was totally pooched, as confirmed by Oneacer. The only fix was a replacement recoil assembly. It starts up in one pull, now.










I'll be disassembling the one on the right and harvesting as many usable parts as I can. Any tips for making this disassembly as straight forward as possible? At the very least I'm planning on taking its engine, belt cover, auger, auger bearing.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Soak all the hardware with a good penetrant like Liquid Wrench and let it sit for a day or 2 before trying to remove anything.

Many useful parts to be had on the donor machine, great that you were able to find it so quickly and even have it delivered.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@snowballah,

Great find .... as Ziggy mentioned, soak all the nuts and bolts with penetrating oil, and let it sit.

Take apart and save as much as you can store, ... take it also as a learning experiance , so when you have to repair yours, you will have a good idea on how the machine works,


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Take pictures so you know how it goes together, lots of pictures!


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

Save as much as you can. Chances are there may be someone who could use the auger housing or some other part. It might not be worth it for you to save, but if you could pay it forward, why not?


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Not sure about the 824, but I have a virtually identical 724, which has a 7HP Tec on it. On our (new at the time) 10000 Ariens of the same vintage, the plastic starters were about tthe only thing that broke - even when mainly using the electric start. I would think you should be able to find one . . . I see a kit at Jack's for $14 that I think lists that blower as a fit . . .)


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Have Recoils, $25 Plus Ship. PM if interested


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Jack ... he already found a donor machine. It starts great for him now.


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