# Stainless Steel?



## TheLama (Nov 7, 2017)

I have had an Ariens Deluxe 30 for 4 years. I store it inside in the winter and under a deck on gravel with a cover in the warm months. It seems to have been rusting almost since I bought it. Friends and family tell me that's just the condition of snowblowers.
Why doesn't some company make a stainless steel body snowblower? I'm certain it would cost hundreds more, but there must be a market for a snowblower that doesn't rust (at least as quickly). Is it a cost issue? Strength?

Thanks for any insights.


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## Paulie139 (Sep 25, 2017)

My guess is that it would not just boost the cost of the final product up hundreds of dollars more - it would be thousands of dollars more. Stainless steel costs about 4-5 times what carbon steel does.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

with toro using specail low temp plastic , it becoming more common on the shoots of others i wonder how much longer it would be,before the whole auger housing is made from it? just like paul i doubt we will ever see a full SS machine, 
a example is looking at how much a SS auto exhaust pipe costs now. not the polished ss,just normal exhaust ss. hundreds


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## jay smith (Oct 20, 2016)

would sure look cool just don't think many would sell. you may want to try some fluid film over the metal parts to stop the rust.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

not stainless....but pimped out ! lol:grin:


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## Paulie139 (Sep 25, 2017)

nwcove said:


> not stainless....but pimped out ! lol:grin:


I knew, just KNEW, someone on here would have a pic somewhere....


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

......there is another pic (maybe same machine) on this forum of a chromed blower, posted a few years back. i couldnt find it


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## TheLama (Nov 7, 2017)

I just checked the website for "Capital Scrap Metal". It quoted scrap stainless at $0.40 per pound. I can't see where my snowblower's body (ex-engine) could weigh more than 150 pounds. Even if carbon steel prices are nominal, they'd save much of that money not having to paint it.

I also think I got a lemon in terms of rust. The paint bubbled up in many places with no wear; all over the outside of the housing. The few areas I sanded, primed and sprayed 3 years ago have fared better than the original paint...

NWCove: You the man!


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## DriverRider (Nov 20, 2016)

A much simpler and cheaper alternative is to do a quality paint job from the start. I have machines that are fifty years old with original paint and they still look pretty decent.


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## russkat (Feb 25, 2015)

BCS blowers have a stainless chute...










The manufacturers don't want a machine to last. I'm sure they want you to buy a new one in 10 years and not 50.
Can the big tire makers develop tires that last 400k miles? Probably, but why would they?


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## Paulie139 (Sep 25, 2017)

russkat said:


> The manufacturers don't want a machine to last. I'm sure they want you to buy a new one in 10 years and not 50.
> Can the big tire makers develop tires that last 400k miles? Probably, but why would they?


I forgot about that aspect - bad for business in the "short run".

Excellent point!


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

MTD once made a mower with a SS deck. They sold them at Costco, but I don't remember the price.
Like this one


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## NewLaw83 (Oct 18, 2017)

I am getting a new Ariens Pro 28 tomorrow morning. I plan on spraying the whole housing (inside and out) and chute with fluid film once or twice a season to avoid rust. Sorry to hear you are dealing with that Lama...


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Want stainless???????????????????? https://bcsamerica.com/product/snow-thrower *


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

DriverRider said:


> A much simpler and cheaper alternative is to do a quality paint job from the start. I have machines that are fifty years old with original paint and they still look pretty decent.


maybe we wouldn't have to deal with rust so much ,if better NON CHINA recycled steel was used , less impurities better grade steel would mean less rust. now it's a single stage powder coat paint over NON primed, non rust treated poor quality metal,

IMMO guys 
how about simply galvanizing the metal before powder coating , if car and boat makers can do it, why can't the makers of lawn and garden equipment ,


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I still think that manufacturers do for the most part what the market wants. The average buyer (which does not include most of this forum's members) prefers inexpensive over long-lasting. That is why there are so many "MTD-like" brands in the big box stores. The average buyer just wants simple and cheap, and doesn't expect it to last 20 years. Just look at how many people don't properly maintain their equipment, and don't care. If there was a large market for 20 year or 30 year machines, more of those would be built. Stainless steel, better metal-prep, better paint, better bearings, etc just does not make economic sense in today's market, and probably never will.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

paulm12 said:


> I still think that manufacturers do for the most part what the market wants. The average buyer (which does not include most of this forum's members) prefers inexpensive over long-lasting. That is why there are so many "MTD-like" brands in the big box stores. The average buyer just wants simple and cheap, and doesn't expect it to last 20 years. Just look at how many people don't properly maintain their equipment, and don't care. If there was a large market for 20 year or 30 year machines, more of those would be built. Stainless steel, better metal-prep, better paint, better bearings, etc just does not make economic sense in today's market, and probably never will.


BROVO!!! SO TRUE ARE YOUR WORDS, 
we live in a throw away world now,unlike the days of before leasing everything,


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

*They don't paint OPE anymore, it is powder coat...*

They don't paint OPE anymore due to clean air regulations, it is powder coat. While a proper coat job will last years, the finish on all this stuff is just thick enough to keep the machine shiny on the showroom floor. Once it is exposed to weather, it fails and traps in moisture and will deteriorate much faster than paint ever would have. The finish on a new Ariens won't last 50 years like some in my collection.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *Want stainless???????????????????? https://bcsamerica.com/product/snow-thrower *



Looks to me like the only stainless part in it is the chute from what I read. Who knows, maybe someone will really get creative and make a carbon fiber one some day (that I would like to see first hand). Think about it, they make airplane parts out of it and they're supposed to be lighter and stronger than steel or alloys. I think the price though would scare everyone off it.


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## tdipaul (Jul 11, 2015)

.

I'd bet that storing the machine _under a deck on gravel with a cover in the warm months_ is the problem. 

Moisture in the soil rises up through the gravel and gets trapped under the tarp, 

Resulting in a humid and hot greenhouse type environment surrounding the machine for MONTHS. 

Good conditions for rust. 

The machine would be better off with no tarp on it



.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

tdipaul said:


> .
> 
> I'd bet that storing the machine _under a deck on gravel with a cover in the warm months_ is the problem.
> 
> ...



^^^ This ^^^

Get it completely dry at the end of the season. Spray everything with some decent marine preservative. Seal it in a serious plastic bag with a few big dessicant bags inside. You won't have any rust. You only have to do it once a year.

Or store it inside all year, out of the rain and the condensing ground moisture.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

tdipaul said:


> .
> 
> I'd bet that storing the machine _under a deck on gravel with a cover in the warm months_ is the problem.
> 
> ...


I would agree that this is the root of most evil.

Invariably when I acquire a Gilson with a tender or even perforated bucket it's clear that it was left in the mulch pile, manure pile or otherwise left to fester in muck.

Meanwhile I have working machines in my collection that have been with me for over 20 years for which time stands still. The are stored indoors and get to dry between storms. I do get some EOD salt content but I clear that early in the project so the machine gets scoured clean by working in pristine snow back in the property. No POR-15, cold finish galvanize, Fluid Film, bathing or other pampering. The wear surfaces have acquired a patina and pretty much stay as they are. Many of these machines were from a horrific era of recycled automobile steel.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

deezlfan said:


> They don't paint OPE anymore due to clean air regulations, it is powder coat. While a proper coat job will last years, the finish on all this stuff is just thick enough to keep the machine shiny on the showroom floor. Once it is exposed to weather, it fails and traps in moisture and will deteriorate much faster than paint ever would have. The finish on a new Ariens won't last 50 years like some in my collection.


that's what i said above, it's all a light coat powder coat over pee poor quality imported steel,


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

dr bob said:


> ^^^ This ^^^
> 
> Get it completely dry at the end of the season. Spray everything with some decent marine preservative. Seal it in a serious plastic bag with a few big dessicant bags inside. You won't have any rust. You only have to do it once a year.
> 
> Or store it inside all year, out of the rain and the condensing ground moisture.


you mean like shrink wrapping a boat? just did my 23 foot searay during tuesday snow flurries . no desiccant bags but 2 boxes of dryer cloths that at least help keep the old lady smelling nice also while wrapped up airtight for the winter


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## frozenwrench (Oct 18, 2017)

As someone who used to work in heavy equipment manufacturing as an engineer I can tell you stainlees steel has few isues in a smowblower intake.

The grade used needs to be formable in stamping operations and weldable. Welding is more difficult and ventillation for stanless welding could be enormously expensive.

The increase in cost would never pay off for the manufacturer or the buyer. A rusty snowblower still blows snow...


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

HCBPH said:


> Looks to me like the only stainless part in it is the chute from what I read. Who knows, maybe someone will really get creative and make a carbon fiber one some day (that I would like to see first hand). Think about it, they make airplane parts out of it and they're supposed to be lighter and stronger than steel or alloys. I think the price though would scare everyone off it.


 Yeah I saw that after the fact, MY BAD!!!!!!


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

87 powershift said:


> you mean like shrink wrapping a boat? just did my 23 foot searay during tuesday snow flurries . no desiccant bags but 2 boxes of dryer cloths that at least help keep the old lady smelling nice also while wrapped up airtight for the winter


The stretch-wrap on the boat is a pretty good idea. Buttoning the boat up for winter, at least the SoCal "winter", usually involved adding a little heater to keep the air above the dew point inside. Otherwise ventilation was generally better than being completely closed in unless there was a LOT of dessicant involved. Sailing season usually ended around Thanksgiving but started again by mid-April, so hibernation wasn't that big a deal really.

For stored equipment, there are industrial-strength plastic bags that fill the need nicely. I've pickled race engines and other mechanical stuff for decades that way. Dessicant bags and spray preservatives, like CRC 6-56 (I bought it by the gallon...) seem to do fine for shorter-term (less than a year) storage needs. Extended storage (years) takes a little more care.


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## TheLama (Nov 7, 2017)

TDIPaul, I wondered about that form fitting cover exacerbating the problem as well. I do think I got some kind of a lemon. It was rusting by the end of the first season. The areas that I primed with a rust inhibiting paint, then sprayed, have fared well over 3 years. I'm doing the same priming/painting over the expanded areas of paint bubbling now.

I'm wondering if covering just the handles and engine will help? What exactly is the product people are recommending to spray on it in the off season?

Thanks again to all. This is very helpful.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

dr bob said:


> The stretch-wrap on the boat is a pretty good idea. Buttoning the boat up for winter, at least the SoCal "winter", usually involved adding a little heater to keep the air above the dew point inside. Otherwise ventilation was generally better than being completely closed in unless there was a LOT of dessicant involved. Sailing season usually ended around Thanksgiving but started again by mid-April, so hibernation wasn't that big a deal really.
> 
> For stored equipment, there are industrial-strength plastic bags that fill the need nicely. I've pickled race engines and other mechanical stuff for decades that way. Dessicant bags and spray preservatives, like CRC 6-56 (I bought it by the gallon...) seem to do fine for shorter-term (less than a year) storage needs. Extended storage (years) takes a little more care.


when a boat is shrink warped there are special vents . a small cut is made high up and this stick on 1 way vent goes on with a shrink tape over the edges that is like gorilla tape. also shrink isn't 100% air tight due to the hull shape so there is ventilation all the time.

same could be done to a machine, warp it up tight off the ground


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Rust doesn't bother me . . . My Toro 521 has 25 year old rust. . . it's fine.

As for boat shrinkwrap . . . a lot of times it is not ventilated and mold-a-plenty grows during the off season. I cover my boat with a tarp which allows some ventilation, and mold still grows. so, I'm thinking anything with a cover on it (Snowblower, boat, etc) traps moisture and breeds rust and/or mold.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

My thinking is that a snowblower is small enough to bag tight, no ventilation. Wax/seal the paint. Use your favorite preservative spray on exposed metal parts and pices like engine and drive parts. Seal the big bag with a few large dessicant bags inside to soak up any remaining moisture. Then put it wherever you want. So long as the integrity of the outer bag is maintained, you can park the thing under the carport at the beach house and not worry.

------

The challenge with shrink-wrapped-tight boats is that there's still moisture/humidity inside, and no good way to dehumidify as the temperature drops. As soon as a surface inside drops below the dew point, the moisture in the air will start to condense out. Mold and corrosion result. Add a heater to keep the temps inside above the dew point, or grab the moisture in the air using dessicant. Bigger boat cabins can take a lot of dessicant, making this an impractical option.

We are straying way far from the OP's idea of using stainless for the wet parts of a snowblower. My opinion: It would be a total disaster for me. I'd have to keep it polished to a mirror shine at all times. Every waterspot or handprint or scratch on it would bother me. The tiniest bit of road salt would discolor and eventually stain or pit the metal unless it was religiously cleaned immediately following every use.

Other considerations: Stainless is soft. Really soft, as there's no good way to have carbon it i to keep it stiff. Bigger pieces and panels would need to have ribs formed in and rolled/folded edges. And it's heavy by the time you make it thick enough to stand the normal and regular beatings. It would be pretty when new.

Were I designing this stuff from scratch... I'd look hard at an epoxy powder-coated steel bucket with a plastic wear liner. Or just a steel or aluminum support structure to hold the auger bearings, front wheels/skids, and some support for the chute. Everything else up front can be blowmolded PE. The actual augers and impeller need to be something strong enough, maybe aluminum. I'd be looking for some unobtanium for the scraper, something soft enough to conform to the pavement surface without damage yet strong enough to pick up all the packed snow and ice that accumulates under driven-on snow.

Mine would also be self-driving, let itself out of the garage when needed, put itself away, plug itself in to recharge once back inside. iSnowblower....


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