# Impeller bearing play, is this acceptable?



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I have a 2000 Ariens 1024 Pro, which I bought last spring. 

It needed some work, which was mainly engine-related. It's running well now. I recently checked the auger shaft bushings, and discovered that one was kind of gone (worn away to nothing). The shaft ends seem fine, so I replaced both auger bushings, it seems OK. But the machine has clearly had some use. 

Last night I was taking some measurements for a homemade impeller kit, and also checked the impeller for play in the bearing. I can move the impeller around a little, like left/right. Not lengthwise, towards the gearbox, just moving the shaft to the sides. It's a fairly small amount of play, but I don't know how much exactly (maybe something like 1/8" or less?). 

Is some play normal? Or if it moves at all, is the impeller bearing in desperate need of replacement? If the bearing needs to be replaced, what's involved in that? I don't want to have to get the impeller off the shaft, as that sounds like a potential nightmare. 

I haven't really done anything with the bucket half of the machine, since my initial troubles were all with the engine. The auger bushings were the first thing I've done to it. Thank you.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

I do not know that brand real good but the shaft should be in there tight. no play up, down or sideways. or as I like to say snug as a bug in a rug


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## Roar (Feb 27, 2014)

RedOctobyr,
When the prop shaft from PTO to snow blower on my New Holland broke, and I had to try to keep our 300 yard driveway open with the old Ariens 824, that very bearing totally disintegrated. Probably had been on its way for some time. 
I split the machine, removed the pulley and the hub that holds it, got the auger bushings out and lifted the whole auger and impeller assembly out. My biggest problem was to remove the woodruf key that had been in there for 20-some years. Struggled with that for a couple of days. Then the old inner bearing race came off and a new bearing (came in a JD bag marked Made in China! GRRRRR!!) slipped back on. Any radial play in a ball bearing is no good. It was a prelubricated sealed bearing, and with radial play, the seals are shot and moisture has entered the bearing and the balls are rusting.


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## CAPTAINCONSUMER (Feb 18, 2011)

*Not difficult!!*

If you are referring to the shaft bearing at the rear of the blower housing I replaced one with patience and penetrating oil. It was not difficult.

RWCP has all the parts exploded views on their site. You can get the # OFF the bearing and get it at NAPA.....OR. much cheaper on e-bay

It is a good bet that all parts like this are Chinese. Price range $7.50 ON eBay to $17.00 @ NAPA.

If I can do it.....anybody can.


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## Snowmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Check to see if the bearing is moving in the flanges, or if the bearing itself is starting to buy the farm. In any case, I would NOT buy a cheapo bearing from the net. 99% of common bearings use non-contact dust seals for electric motor applications. They keep out dust and dirt, not water. The ball bearings Ariens uses are engineered specifically for this application and are extremely water resistant.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Thank you all, I appreciate the help. Snowmann, thank you for the insight, I hadn't considered the difference in seal types. 

I will have to check the bearing more closely. As long as I can get it disassembled, and the shaft itself isn't worn, I'm fine with replacing it (it's things like stuck fasteners that can suddenly be a bear). 

I had tried to remove setscrews from the impeller-shaft hub (which holds the big pulley) on an ST824. The setscrews were very difficult to loosen, finally used my impact gun with success. Are those Loctited, do you need heat to soften something on them? 

I suppose if I was going to try and remove the hub, I might be most of the way to pulling the whole auger assembly out of the bucket. Which could make drilling the impeller for mounting an impeller kit much easier.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Snowmann said:


> Check to see if the bearing is moving in the flanges, or if the bearing itself is starting to buy the farm. In any case, I would NOT buy a cheapo bearing from the net. 99% of common bearings use non-contact dust seals for electric motor applications. They keep out dust and dirt, not water. The ball bearings Ariens uses are engineered specifically for this application and are extremely water resistant.


They usually have a type ofrubber seal that looks like an engine main seal. This type of bearing is used inside my watercrafts impeller pump. spendy little suckers too if you want to buy the oem ones.


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## Snowmann (Dec 24, 2012)

RedOctobyr said:


> Thank you all, I appreciate the help. Snowmann, thank you for the insight, I hadn't considered the difference in seal types.
> 
> I will have to check the bearing more closely. As long as I can get it disassembled, and the shaft itself isn't worn, I'm fine with replacing it (it's things like stuck fasteners that can suddenly be a bear).
> 
> ...


Those old set screws have dry-lock patches. Tough to move them even when they aren't a few years old.


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## Mr Fixit (Nov 19, 2013)

If you release the tension between the shaft and the set screw, quite often you'll get quicker release of the set screw. Find the right rivet punch that is just tight inside the set screw but will not damage it. Drive the punch repeatedly till you're sure the hit was good enough to dimple the shaft inside under the set screw. Try loosening it and apply heat too if you're still not successful.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Thank you guys. I bought an OEM Ariens bearing, 05406300. It's a pack of 2, PM me if you were looking to buy one of these  

Splitting the bucket from the tractor on this machine is a bit of a pain, as it turns out. I had to completely remove the chute, including the bracket that mounts above the valve cover. The chute bracket mounts to the engine, but holds onto the chute, joining the two halves of the machine. 

I'm guessing maybe this was the first year of this design, as the manual doesn't show the chute bracket that mounts to the engine, and the bucket-removal instructions are wrong, as they don't consider this engine-mounted bracket. 

Kroil is soaking into the setscrews, and I hit their centers with a punch. I may try heating the area before trying to remove them, to soften any threadlocker. I just don't know if using a torch would burn off the penetrating oil, maybe making it useless (if there was no threadlocker, I might be shooting myself in the foot). 

Or I could just be bold and try the impact gun, and see what happens


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Took off the 3 bolts holding the auger pulley to the hub. 

But the pulley doesn't want to come off the hub, for some reason. Tried motivating it with a plastic-faced mallet, still not getting anywhere. Put a board between it and the bucket, and hit the end of the board, to try and pop the pulley off the hub, nothing. 

So I figured let's try the setscrews on the hub, maybe I can get lucky and remove the hub. It's an electric impact wrench (no torque adjustment), so I just tapped the trigger and gave the first a few hits. The allen bit kind of bound up in the setscrew head, I loosened it with a ratchet twisting in the other direction. Tried the same thing on the second screw, and the bit spun in the head. Tried the next-larger size English bit, that's too big, so I'm pretty sure I have the right size. 

Sigh. Sometimes nothing wants to work easily  

The pulley doesn't even want to come off the hub, and the hub setscrews appear to be on their way to stripping. For the pulley, I could try putting it back together and running the augers for a minute or so, maybe the belt tension on the spinning pulley would work it loose from the hub. 

Edit- Nope, running the augers with the pulley nuts loose did nothing, the pulley is still frozen to the hub somehow. Took it apart again, removed the nuts, heated the area around the hub with a propane torch for a bit and hit the pulley with the plastic-faced deadblow mallet, still nothing. I don't know what would make it stick to the hub like that.


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## CAPTAINCONSUMER (Feb 18, 2011)

*I've been out of town a few days......*

And missed most of this dicussion.

My bearing replacement went much easier than yours. I replaced it as part of a general overhaul of the blower assembly.



Snowmann said:


> , I would NOT buy a cheapo bearing from the net. 99% of common bearings use non-contact dust seals for electric motor applications. They keep out dust and dirt, not water. The ball bearings Ariens uses are engineered specifically for this application and are extremely water resistant.


The NAPA bearing I used had the same part # as the bearing I pulled out of the machine and cost 17 bucks. RCPW would have sold me a: 1. "dealers choice" bearing for 11 and change or, 2. "STENS" bearing for 16 bucks and change or 3. An "Ariens" OEM for 20 bucks and change. 

RCPW states the after-market parts they sell equal or exceed OEM specs. I believe them.


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## Snowmann (Dec 24, 2012)

CAPTAINCONSUMER said:


> And missed most of this dicussion.
> 
> My bearing replacement went much easier than yours. I replaced it as part of a general overhaul of the blower assembly.
> 
> ...


I'm sure the bearings are top quality, just not water resistant. 

Current Pro impeller bearings part number 05400713 are 8186-2RSTFP-NSD-TN-CX

Current Deluxe impeller bearings part number 05409300 are 8186-2RSTLYD-NSD24-TN-CX

These top two are full custom bearings, not available in aftermarket.

Current Sno-Tek and Compact impeller bearings part number 05406300 are 1635-2RLYD-C3

This 3rd one has special grease, fill %, and seals. Races, cages, etc. are industry standard in a C3 clearance. Again, a special bearing and not available as aftermarket.

You have a 924,XXX machine. Does it have the cast iron or aluminum gearcase? If aluminum, then you should have used OEM part number 05406300 above. The parts you took out of the machine are not necessarily the best available today. OEM service parts have largely been upgraded as technology advances.


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

RedOctobyr, are the setscrews completely removed from the hub, and not just loosen? You mentioned they appear stripped, so I wasn't sure if you have them fully removed. Reason why I'm asking is because when I removed my hub, I actually found that the set screws were doubled up! Meaning, there was a second set of set screws underneath the first one that was still holding the hub in place.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Snowmann, I ordered the 05406300 bearing, as that's what's in the Parts manual for my machine. It's a year-2000 Pro, with cast-iron gearbox. I assume the Parts list is correct. I guess I'll find out if/when I get the old bearing out  

I expect I know the reason (cost), but I can't help but put in my $0.02. A little anti-seize applied during assembly of these machines could make working on them later much easier. If I were to buy a new one at some point, I might actually consider tearing it down somewhat, to anti-seize the fasteners that will likely have to come off at some point for maintenance. 

I realize that adding anti-seize offers nothing but cost to the manufacturer during assembly, of course. But these are machines meant to run in wet environments, and it would sure save some grief later. Even just when the serrated bolts pressed through sheet-metal simply spin in their holes as you try to remove them (having flat-head screwdriver heads on them doesn't help either  ). This is honestly meant as *constructive* criticism, to be clear. And I really appreciate your participation and feedback here. It's great to have someone from the manufacturer offering insight, and I really like the 3 Ariens I've owned. 

WestminsterFJR, that's good to know, thank you. I haven't quite gotten to that point, unfortunately, as the first ones haven't budged yet. I checked last night with some metric drivers, and a 4mm head seemed to fit decently in one of the setscrews. I will check more closely, but for the next attempt, I'll use whichever driver fits more tightly. And I'll heat the hub first. I did check the parts list, they are English setscrews, but if metric happens to be a better fit, so be it. 

I put a bunch more Kroil on everything, with the bucket on its nose, maybe it will help it seep in and loosen things. The machine may have to go back together as-is, we may be getting snow tomorrow night.


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## WireGuy1950 (Jan 31, 2013)

Just another suggestion on loosening stuck fasteners. After you heat them up really well squirt them with some cold water from a spray bottle or something.

This has worked really well for me, from removing brake line fittings to front wheel bearing in the truck.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

When checking a new sealed ball bearing, hold the outer race and turn the inner race. The inner race should feel very smooth, no lumpy, or gritty feel, just very smooth. When you find a bad one, you will know. If the bearing is pressed on slightly crooked,[yes it can happen], the bearing can feel the same way, especially if your using a hammer and a piece of pipe or a socket, and always only drive the race that's going to be the tight one.
Sid


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

To remove the pulley you're going to need an assistant, a good heavy prybar, a drift punch and a large hammer. Have your assistant pry between the auger housing and the pulley and hit the shaft with the hammer and punch. This may require heat from a torch as well. If you have a really good air hammer this works better than a hammer and punch.

If that doesn't work you can sometimes drill a couple of holes in the pulley and use a puller and a couple of bolts, sometimes you can't get nuts on the other side, sometimes the puller will just bend the pulley but it still wont come off.

If all else fails you'll have to cut the pulley off with an angle grinder and replace it, I've seen that happen before.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

WOW. That is a bit intimidating, for what I thought would be the easy part (remove nuts, take off pulley)  

Doesn't exactly make removing the hub itself sound promising. 

Any theory on what it is I'm fighting, with the pulley itself? Is the inside diameter tight against the outside diameter of the protrusion from the hub? Or are the flat faces of the two rusted ("glued") together? 

On the plus side, I have the ability to cut off both the pulley and hub, if it came to that. Though after looking at their prices, I sure hope it doesn't. 

Ignorance is bliss; simply not checking the impeller bearing would have been a lot cheaper & simpler  

Oh, and I do like the heat-then-spray-with-cold-water trick; I have tried that once before, on more-exposed bolts. It worked on one, at least  

I had to put the machine back together for a coming storm. Given that nothing is coming off easily, this may have to wait until spring arrives (I don't want to break something 2 days before a random storm). 

Despite the daunting news, I really appreciate the feedback. Thank you guys.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I didn't go back and re read everything, but a lot of times larger pulleys have 2 set screws. Did you make sure to get both of them or at least check for a second one?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

WireGuy1950 said:


> Just another suggestion on loosening stuck fasteners. After you heat them up really well squirt them with some cold water from a spray bottle or something.
> 
> This has worked really well for me, from removing brake line fittings to front wheel bearing in the truck.


I normally use a penetrant like PB Blaster and after taking the torch away give it a couple seconds to start to cool a little before repeatedly spraying it with the penetrant. As it cools it sucks the penetrant in to the void. It's not as much of a thermal shock as cold water but I think the penetrant does more good and also acts as a lubricant when you're trying to back something out or pull something off.

I suppose you could always stick it in the fridge half an hour before you're going to use it  And yes it's kind of a joke but then again it would give it more thermal shock and promote the sucking in of the penetrant !!


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Shryp, I haven't gotten to try to remove the hub from the shaft yet. 

I merely removed the 3 nuts from the studs (coming from the hub through the pulley), and tried to remove just the pulley from the hub. I don't see any other fasteners that look like they would hold the pulley in place. So I think the pulley *should* be free, it just hasn't budged yet. 

I did make one attempt at removing the setscrews from the hub, but the driver started to spin in one of them. I'd like to heat the hub before trying again, but the pulley is kind of in the way. 

I'm guessing the hub won't simply slide off the shaft even if I had the setscrews out, so I expect the pulley will have to come off regardless, to give better access to the hub.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

An update. I was able to get the pulley off the hub. 

I loosened the nuts holding it on, and used vibration to help. I took a small 12V motor, and attached an offset weight to the shaft, to imbalance it. Clamped the motor to the pulley, and ran it at around 6V. Total runtime was around 5 hours, changing the voltage a few times, trying to get more vibration in the pulley. 

The last time I checked on it, I suddenly found the pulley would wiggle on the hub. Worked it back and forth, and got it off. Nice! At least I don't have to destroy the pulley. 

I've never tried vibration to loosen stuff before, but I recently read a mention of it somewhere, and figured I'd give it a try. I'm glad I did! 

Today I heated the hub, and sprayed penetrating oil on the setscrews. One came out smoothly. The other (with the partially-stripped head) wouldn't budge. Hammered a different bit into it, that spun as well. 

Finally tried to drill it out. I've gone to the tap-drill size for the 5/16-24 threads, with no real success yet. I used left-hand drills up to 1/4", nothing spun out of the hole. I think I was fairly well centered, but didn't go in straight. I'm wondering about putting a small ball-type cutter on my Dremel and trying to gouge some of it out, to try and start peeling the threads out of the hole. 

*If* I can get the hub off, I can Helicoil that hole, or make a new one. So worst-case I can open the hole up further. I think I've gone about to the shaft, depth-wise, but it's tough to be certain. 

Unfortunately, I don't know if the setscrew is still grabbing the shaft. Which is also probably firmly rusted to the hub. I've removed the auger bolts and bearing flanges, the bucket is facing down, with the augers hanging. I tried a few hits using a punch on the end of the shaft, it didn't budge.


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## Snowmann (Dec 24, 2012)

RedOctobyr said:


> I realize that adding anti-seize offers nothing but cost to the manufacturer during assembly, of course. But these are machines meant to run in wet environments


Red, FYI, the impeller, wheels, and lower impeller pulley hub have been anti-seized during the factory assembly process for almost 10 years now. The pulley hubs are vacuum oil impregnated on everything except Pros. Pro hubs get Resin Impregnation with a Yellow Zinc Dichromate. All of this is intended to improve serviceability.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Snowmann, thank you, I appreciate the info, and your taking the time to reply. 

My Ariens machines are all older than that, so I guess they pre-dated this change. But I'm glad to know that it was implemented later, that's good.


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## CAPTAINCONSUMER (Feb 18, 2011)

*Your adventure sounds like.......*

"simple maintenance projects" I started that turned into ordeals. I'm not laughing. Now I know others share some of my experiences.

I didn't have any issues replacing that bearing but changing out the friction wheel on my '70ish blower was a nightmare.

Back to the after market parts discussion. My truck manufacturer would like me to "GET THAT GREAT G.M. FEELING WITH GENUINE G.M. PARTS!". Ford hints of dire consequences if I don't use "Motorcraft" oil in the wife's car. 

I am sure the Ariens bearing is high quality. Boss Bearings who market parts for ATV's, dirt bikes, etc... will sell you the aftermarket part for $9.95 (for 2). This is a common part for OPE available for any price you want to pay. None of the aftermarket replacements specified "for dry applications only". Mowers, tillers, ATVs, and dirt bikes get wet, too.

The bearing I replaced in a '78 vintage machine was fine. I figured if I had the unit torn down I may as well replace some parts. I am sure the bearing I got at NAPA (same part # stamped on side) will outlast me.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Yeah, this isn't going as smoothly as it could  But one step at a time. 

At this point I'm really wishing I'd tried my first idea for the stripped setscrew, which was to thread a nut over the exposed outside threads, and weld it on. Then try loosening the nut. 

But I was afraid that if that didn't work, I'd have lost the means to "easily" center the drill on a nice flat surface (inside the setscrew). So if the nut-welding trick didn't work, drilling it properly was going to become a lot harder. Of course, drilling isn't going so smoothly either. 

I drilled it a little deeper and bigger last night, pretty sure the drill tip is into the shaft now. But I don't think I've gotten through the whole tip of the setscrew. In part because I didn't go in quite straight with the drill, so I'm off-center from the screw tip. I think I need to go bigger diameter, and deeper, to get all of it. Or I've considered a small grinding tip on my Dremel, and trying to grind the tip of the setscrew out. 

I borrowed a 6" 3-jaw gear puller, for the hub, but the fingers are too big to fit behind the back of the hub (not the ears). I either need to buy a smaller 3-jaw puller, or I may make a plate to bolt tight to the 3 screws through the hub, flat against the face of the hub. Then use a harmonic puller threaded into the plate itself. I don't want to put a load on those ears, but the plate would help keep them just in tension, rather than doing something like a gear puller hooked onto the tips of the ears, trying to bend (snap) them off. 

But not knowing for sure if the setscrew is fully gone is making this harder. With a new hub (02438900) being ~$45, I don't want to just cut it off, if I can help it.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I drilled the hub some more. I went up to 21/64, the tap-drill size for a 5/16-24 Helicoil (to put the original threads back). I finally actually saw some threads disintegrate, as the drill got large enough to finish clearing out that side of the hole. Apparently my hole ended up a bit off-center. But I'm fairly confident I have the diameter of the setscrew drilled out, as well as getting the hole deep enough, and being fully into the shaft. 

I got a small 3-jaw gear puller (loaner tool from an auto parts store) hooked behind the hub, by the impeller bearing. I cranked it as tight as I dared last night. I may leave it attached and try also heating the hub, to see if I can help it loosen & start to move. I can also use a punch to hit the end of the shaft, adding to the force from the gear puller. 

I really wish the setscrew had come out cleanly, then I wouldn't be wondering whether I *really* have it all out. I can't be fully certain that it's just rust holding it in-place, and not also a last bit of setscrew.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Based on my own experience dealing with a similar situation, I would try the heat and cold water at this point and without the jaw puller as you need to wiggle it and look for the smallest freeplay. It may have to be repeated for the heat and cold until it's on your lap.
I'm sorry to step in this thread as you already may have known all what I 
said here.

Good Luck

Norm


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Trust me, I welcome any and all advice  I wouldn't have created this thread if I had all the answers. 

Oh, and SUCCESS!! I left the gear puller tight, and heated the hub with a propane torch. Then sprayed the shaft with Kroil (to help cool the shaft, and let the oil sneak in). Started tightening the gear puller further, and all of a sudden it started getting easier to turn. 

It was tight pretty much the whole way off, but it came off in one piece. Awesome! It turns out my drilled hole for the setscrew was just big enough. 

In keeping with the theme of nothing-wants-to-go-easily, the woodruff key appears stuck in the shaft for now. It is a semi-circle type key. Tried a punch & mallet at one end of the key, driving it along the length of the shaft, but I'm just mushrooming the end of the key so far. 

I guess I could carefully use a cutoff wheel in my Dremel and try and slot the center of the key, to let it collapse and release a bit.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I tried Vise-grips on it, nothing. Also grabbing it with diagonal-cutters, to try and pry it out against the shaft, still nothing. Also heating the area, then cooling the key with the liquid spray from a canned-air container, still didn't work. 

So I tried another tip I read, I welded some scrap steel to the woodruff key, being careful to avoid welding to the shaft. I tried pushing/pulling on the end of that piece, to try and pry the key out. I didn't get anywhere, so I welded another piece to the first, for more leverage. 

That was finally enough to get it wiggling. Worked it back and forth, and managed to get it out of the shaft. It was *tight*. I will have to clean up all these surfaces to make sure they go back together a little more easily than they came apart. And everything will be liberally coated with anti-seize.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Or just know you're going to destroy it and take a nice thick chisel and start to hammer the carp out of it with the slight upward tilt you can get on the key.

That welding trick is way cool for those of us with a welder. Would never have thought of that.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I was kind of afraid of just cutting through it, and leaving myself nothing to grab, if I tried that. I'd already been mushrooming it with the punch (trying to angle it away from the keyway), which I feared was already making it tighter in the slot. 

I managed to get the bearing off (removed the flanges and used the gear puller) and the augers out. The bearing actually doesn't have much play, though it does feel gritty. Some of the play may be coming from the bearing's fit in the flanges, I don't know yet. If so, maybe I can shim between the flanges and the bearing somehow. 

The shaft is worn a bit at the bearing, it's about 0.746-0.748" elsewhere, and 0.732" at the bearing. I can either leave it, or weld some small dots on the bearing area, then grind them down so they don't stick out beyond the normal diameter of the shaft. If this was an easily-removed shaft I'd just weld it then turn it down to size, but that's not happening here. Welding and grinding a bunch of dots sounds like a pain, I'm not sure if that's worth it  

Please forgive my numerous posts about this. I've appreciated all the great advice, and at this point I'm also hoping this thread might benefit someone in the future who is going through the same thing.


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## CAPTAINCONSUMER (Feb 18, 2011)

KEEP AT IT........IT'S LIKE AN OLD MOVIE SERIAL. IF IT WASN'T FOR BAD LUCK YOU WOULD HAVE NONE AT ALL.

we should all have such patience.


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## driz (Dec 19, 2013)

Next time you have frozen pin try this if you have an air chisel / compressor. I did this on a guys backhoe on a 2" pin 16" long and it worked. Where he got the idea I don't know. Take a Chinese chisel and cut the cutter off leaving it blunt, grind the edge smooth or whatever to get a flat end. Sit down get your ear muffs on and put the penetrating oil on and start chiseling against the end of the pin. Keep the oil trickling so it is in the crack and pound away with the air chisel. It will take while but you will sooner or later see the crack start to widen a bit as the oil works in. 
If that doesn't do it you may have to heat it (we did but the huge casting just absorbed the heat of the big torch. The second round of pounding showed the crack a little bigger and it came right out a few minutes later. I don't know if the air chisel is better than beating with a BFH but it's a lot easier and you don't miss and bust your knuckles. 
Also remember well. If you use heat give it 10 or 15 minutes and some more oil to give it the best chance to release. Also if you use propane try to use one of those swirl torches. They aren't as good as an oxy rig but are a lot hotter than a regular propane torch head.


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## driz (Dec 19, 2013)

Ok here is is. Who knows what you will be getting here, maybe pixs of my cat. Windows 8 and I don't have the happiest relationship just yet. 




Anyways, if it's a snowblower and not a cat's tush this is the pulley. It literally tips forward 5 degrees at the top. At the same time I can feel it rotating somewhere towards the last half like a pivot. So If you are telling me that this little fellow is supposed to not budge then I guess it's time for more surgery. No big deal as we are about done here with snow so I'll leave it apart till I get the parts. 

Derr. This was supposed to go on another post with MY headache, sorry......


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I think that mine rocks also, and I think (hope) that it is supposed to do that. When the belt tension is applied, then it "rocks/pivots" into the friction wheel to apply drive pressure.

Let me know if you think something is worn on your, and what it is. Thanks !


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

RedOctobyr said:


> I have a 2000 Ariens 1024 Pro, which I bought last spring.
> 
> It needed some work, which was mainly engine-related. It's running well now. I recently checked the auger shaft bushings, and discovered that one was kind of gone (worn away to nothing). The shaft ends seem fine, so I replaced both auger bushings, it seems OK. But the machine has clearly had some use.
> 
> ...


 if you are able to do it, change the impeller bearing. it will run with that play, but if one auger bushing was gone, and the impeller bearing has noticeable measureable play, it would be a good idea to change it.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I wanted to close the loop on this. I finally got it done. 

I welded up and ground down the hole I drilled into the shaft, when trying to remove the stripped set screw. I had Helicoiled the pulley hub for a larger 3/8 setscrew, at the drilled-out hole. 

I also welded some little dots onto the worn area of the impeller shaft, then ground them down to size. The bearing just slides on snugly now. Not as good as welding it all and turning it back down to size, but turning it would have been a giant PITA. 

I installed a homemade impeller kit. I used baler belt from Tractor Supply Company (note that they no longer sell it by the foot, you have to buy a small roll; send me a message if you want to buy any, I have more than I needed). I used stainless 1/4-20 bolts with stainless nylock nuts. 

The best place I could drill the mounting holes was in a recessed surface of the impeller. But I wanted the belt to sit flat on the impeller surface, and not try and pull down into the recess. So I ground down some stainless washers, and put them under the belt, in this recessed area, to make up the difference in height. 

I slotted the mounting "holes" in the belt pieces, so I could adjust their fit against the housing. This was helpful, as it turned out. It still has a bit of drag against the housing, but I think the first session of actual use will probably wear it in nicely. And if the gap opens up, I can slide the belt pieces further out, to close the gap. 

I replaced the impeller bearing with an OEM bearing. The new bearing could move around a bit left-right even when the bearing flanges were bolted up tight, they weren't snug around the bearing. I replaced the outward-facing flange, to no effect. So I folded over some aluminum shim stock onto the outer bearing flange, then bolted it back together (the picture still shows the original flange). Now the bearing sits tightly. Not an ideal fix, but maybe it will work. The play in the impeller itself is no longer noticeable. 

I also drained the cast iron gearbox oil (which was still full) and replaced it with Ariens L3 synthetic lube. I think (hope!) it's ready for next season. 

Thank you all for the good advice and suggestions, I appreciate all the help.


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