# Some general questions on the HSS1332



## ssls6 (Sep 25, 2019)

Hi,

New to the forum and snowblowers but not new to small/large/heavy equipment. I’ve been lurking here for about a year learning what I can. I’ve recently built a Colorado home (Summit County) and my plow guy suggested I get a snowblower if I want to fully clean my drive and control the build up from the plow. I have noticed many people in my neighborhood do their own snow removal.

So, I’ve owned a GX390 pressure washer with cat pump for 18+ years and like small honda commercial engines in general. Buying a HSS1332 was logical for me although I almost bought an Ariens (I’ve also got an Ariens push string trimmer that is also 20 years old).

I’ve noticed a few things about the HSS1332 and wanted to ask here....

1) The auger isn’t perfectly square to the frame/engine. I noticed this raising/lowering the auger. I learned here about the 10 bolts that hold the two together but it is a box in box so I really don’t see how you can align these. I did try but it made no difference. I resorted to loosening the skids and scraper bar, lowering the auger until it was on the ground but both tracks carrying their share of weight, and then pushing the scraper bar flush to the concrete. With the scraper tightened back up, I put a 1/4” spacer under the scraper and set the skids. The thing pushes straight now and the skids both hit at the same time and the scraper is parallel to the ground. Can I improve this method?

2) I was shocked there is no pre-filter under the air box. No foam, no nothing. I learned here and from the Honda parts diagram that is normal. Just seems wrong to me but I’ve never owned snow equipment. Do any of you use pre-filters?

3) The supplied Honda oil in the crate was 5w-30 conventional SN. SN is limited to 800ppm of ZDDP for emission systems. I’ve read here that people consider that break-in oil to be changed after 10 hours. I decided to go a different route like I did on my old GX390 (use a conventional 10w-30 SJ and change it after 5-6 heat cycles....about 1.5 hours). I’m now running Honda’s SN and will change it again after 10 hours. Anyone else do their own thing?

4) When I spin the auger, I notice the extreme ends of the auger housing flex in and out maybe 0.040 inches. Should I loosen and retighten the bearing cups? I don’t think this will hurt anything but just something I noticed.

Glad to be a part of the community and I’ve learned a lot already here.

Regards,
Richard


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## jwasilko (Jan 5, 2018)

ssls6 said:


> 2) I was shocked there is no pre-filter under the air box. No foam, no nothing. I learned here and from the Honda parts diagram that is normal. Just seems wrong to me but I’ve never owned snow equipment. Do any of you use pre-filters?


Snow equipment generally doesn't use an air filter.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

The Auger to Frame "Square" where the auger housing meets the "Tractor Chassis" is out when manufactured. I used to see that problem a lot back in the 90's. It had to do with the manufacturing "Jig" that was used when the housings were manufactured. We brought it to Honda's attention and they checked into it and found out what was causing it. 
We told Honda about it and they supposedly corrected that problem, but it can happen again. No matter what you do to fix it, it will always be out a little bit. Manufacturing tolerances allow for that to a certain point.
It will tilt the auger a bit causing it to be tilted a bit. Usually minor adjustments can correct it, but if it is too far out then an auger housing replacement would be necessary. That happened back in the 90's and Honda did replace the housings under warranty if they were that far out. I replaced a few of them back then and they were an expensive part.
Most of your snow equipment does not use an air filter element due to it becoming "Iced" up and choking out the engine. The air filter cover usually has "Swirls" built into them to centrifugally remove dust particles, just like in heavy equipment filter housings.
I use and recommend Ams-Oil small engine oil. It will flow at minus 46 degrees Fahrenheit. It is rated SAE 10W30/30. An excellent synthetic oil. Maybe a little bit expensive per quart but it is worth it.
When you spin the auger you may notice a little bit of "Flex in it due to the augers causing that, look at the shape of them, and they will tend to flex or distort at different temperatures. It is more of a "Spring Action" doing that, and it is not much to worry about, it is designed to handle that with manufacturing tolerances. .040 is nothing to worry about.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I'm curious if you have decided to change the jet in the carburetor to get more power ? have you used it yet? Most everyone I have spoken to likes the 1332. It's a good choice.


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## ssls6 (Sep 25, 2019)

orangputeh said:


> I'm curious if you have decided to change the jet in the carburetor to get more power ? have you used it yet? Most everyone I have spoken to likes the 1332. It's a good choice.


I'll put it into service at 9500 ft. I'll check the jetting then if required.


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## feh (Dec 16, 2016)

I believe the no filter on snowblowers is because of two reasons: you won’t operate in a dusty/dry environment and the risk of the filter media freezing up and blocking airflow.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

ssls6 said:


> I'll put it into service at 9500 ft. I'll check the jetting then if required.


Most of the guys on here talk about putting a larger main jet in the carb.
If you are at 9500ft elevation you would want a smaller jet than original. You want the "High Altitude" jet kit which would be a smaller main jet because of the less oxygen/air density at 9500ft compared to sea level to 3000 ft.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

ST1100A said:


> Most of the guys on here talk about putting a larger main jet in the carb.
> If you are at 9500ft elevation you would want a smaller jet than original. You want the "High Altitude" jet kit which would be a smaller main jet because of the less oxygen/air density at 9500ft compared to sea level to 3000 ft.


Correct. The #102 he has in it (see his other thread) is the original sea level jet that I, for example, increased to #110, so should be close to correct to compensate for EPA lean metering at 9500ft.


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