# 1 yr old Snowblower (Huskee) won't start



## motion (Dec 21, 2020)

Greetings, and thanks for having me as a member. The short story: my 1 year old Huskee (Tractor Supply/MTD) Snowblower won't start up. Model 31AM6BHE731. I ran it a few times last season, and it ran mostly fine, except for one occasion it coughed a good amount of smoke on start-up. I goofed and stored it in garage with old gas. 

*Things I have tried:*

1. Pull and electric start. Electric start will kick in, but there is no life from the engine either from the pull or electric start.
2. Drained old gas from tank and carb. New fresh gas with Star Tron
3. Gumshot Carb Cleaner up into Carb Jet
4. Gumshot Starter Fluid up in carb (via drain hole)
4. Filled tank and primed carb with Mechanic in a Bottle, let sit overnight
5. I am using the key, there is no fuel shut off, tried full choke and partial choke

*Things I have not tried/observations:*

1. Check the spark plug. Why? It is stuck and I cannot turn. It's located down in the engine cavity, and I've tried turning with a plug removal wrench. Won't budge. I could try PB Blast and I hate giving up, but I also don't want to force and snap the plug.
2. I bought blower assembled with oil already filled. I noticed the oil tank is high (a good inch or so above the H mark). Coupled with the smoke I saw last year, I'm wondering if too much oil fouled the spark plug?
3. Take apart & clean the carb. I may have someone do this, but a new OEM MTD carb costs about $70... wondering if I am better off just buying one and having them install?

Would be curious to hear your thoughts? Is it worth having a go with the PB Blast and seeing if I can turn plug without over doing it? Anything else I am missing before calling in a mechanic?


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

You can probably get a Chinese carb for about $20. If you don't feel skilled enough to rebuild the carb, I would spend the $20. And next year, drain the gas or add stabil.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Welcome.
Drain the oil and change if you didn't do so already.
Smell it. do you smell gas in it?
Did you get the plug to move yet?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if the oil smells gassy there is a good possibility the plug might be bad. you definitely at least need to get the plug out to check it. can you get the spark plug socket on the plug without the ratchet. i think you need a knuckle with those engine. it can be tricky but not too bad.


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## motion (Dec 21, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> if the oil smells gassy there is a good possibility the plug might be bad. you definitely at least need to get the plug out to check it. can you get the spark plug socket on the plug without the ratchet. i think you need a knuckle with those engine. it can be tricky but not too bad.


Hi, I am using a Powercare Extended Spark Plug Wrench from HD. Gives me the reach I need. Haven't gotten plug to move yet -- I can buy some PB Blaster and give it a go if you think the PB Blaster worth trying. Again, I don't want to over exert and snap it. I drained some of the oil: it's dark and has a slightly off-smell. I'll drain it now and change.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

welcome to the SBF
frozen in place spark plug can be a issue, what size breaker bar are you using? 3/8 or a 1/2 inch .


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

If gas is in the oil, you surely want to pull and clean, or replace the carburetor. Running a machine with gas in the oil will surely damage the engine.

You also may want to consider adding an in-line shutoff.


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

Get an electric impact wrench to remove your spark plug...it won't be stucked there for too long.


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

Dumb question, do you have a fuel shutoff and is it in the off or on position? I only ask as I have been there with a generator and after I tore the carb apart, I finally noticed.

On the impact wrench to the spark plug, others may disagree with me, but I don't think that would be a smart move.


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## motion (Dec 21, 2020)

kd8tzc said:


> Dumb question, do you have a fuel shutoff and is it in the off or on position? I only ask as I have been there with a generator and after I tore the carb apart, I finally noticed.
> 
> On the impact wrench to the spark plug, others may disagree with me, but I don't think that would be a smart move.


no fuel shut off, but thanks for asking. Spark plug is a F6RTC. Here’s what I’m using on the plug because it’s recessed in the machine.


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

I don't know if this method would work with the spark plug, but Donnybiy73 on YT had a great video on how to remove stuck muffler bolts. I have to thank @rod330 as he was the one who pointed me to the video last week.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

wow. this problem with a fairly new machine?is there any warranty? I would contact dealer first.

otherwise , may be redundant here. i did not read all the posts. 

remove old gas from tank. 

high oil may point to gas in oil from stuck float . do you have an on/off gas valve.
what does the plug look like? probably wet.
I know it is stuck but a word of caution. TAKE YOUR TIME with this. Penetrating oil and then try. In very few cases I have used an extension with breaker bar but very GENTLY try to break loose.

That plug may tell a problem. I would change it. Hand tighten first.Hope the threads are not damaged. 

Then check for spark, new oil , check clean carb float etc. A little gas or ether in spark plug hole and see if it almost starts.

I prefer OEM carbs over chinese which are hit or miss. your carb may be okay. just needs a cleaning since fairly new.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

motion said:


> no fuel shut off, but thanks for asking. Spark plug is a F6RTC. Here’s what I’m using on the plug because it’s recessed in the machine.


i don't think that will work. i believe you need a proper spark plug socket and ratchet to remove the plug.


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> i don't think that will work. i believe you need a proper spark plug socket and ratchet to remove the plug.


I've used those before with some of my equipment because they did come with it too. Assuming the plug was not wrenched in there by a gorilla, it should remove it. You might not have the same mechanical advantage as with a ratchet, but it should work.


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## motion (Dec 21, 2020)

Thanks, you all have been great with suggestions. I guess at this point my question would be: any harm in trying the PB blast/penetrating oil, even if no luck? If I can’t get the plug out, I have a mechanic who can come tomorrow night... I just don’t want to compound the problem for him with spraying penetrating oil on the plug, having the oil sit on the plug a day if he in fact needs to take over.


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

motion said:


> 3. Gumshot Carb Cleaner up into Carb Jet
> 4. Gumshot Starter Fluid up in carb (via drain hole)


I think you've taken the right steps removing the stale gas, replacing it with fresh gas and changing the oil. As a next step, I'd suggest spraying some Starter Fluid directly into the throat of the carb (rather than the float bowl drain hole). You'll probably need to remove the housing surrounding the carb to do that. Using the handle of a screwdriver, give the carb bowl a couple of good taps to potentially free up a stuck needle. Then, with the key in the on position, it should briefly start (unless there's indeed a spark problem). If it fails to continue running, repeat using the Starting Fluid one or two more times. If it does start and then dies, you'll need to clean the carb more thoroughly. If it won't start at all, then focus on removing the plug and checking for proper spark.

I've used a similar Briggs and Stratton plug wrench to remove nearly every small engine spark plug. It's possible the factory overtorqued it during assembly which will require using a conventional spark plug socket and wrench.

Let us know if you're unsure where the carb throat is located or how to remove the heater box surrounding the carb.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

kd8tzc said:


> I've used those before with some of my equipment because they did come with it too. Assuming the plug was not wrenched in there by a gorilla, it should remove it. You might not have the same mechanical advantage as with a ratchet, but it should work.


there are a lot of machines where that tool may work fine but on most new snowblowers with all the shielding tools like that don't work. most new machines i find i usually have to put the socket on first and then decide if i need a knuckle. extension or fancy ratchet to hook to the socket and break the plug free. the other option would be to remove all the shielding to make getting at the plug easier but that is usually a lot more time consuming


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I spray the plug base with PB Blaster and let it sit for a while, then use my long 25" breaker bar with a ratchet head, a 1/2" extender and a 6-point spark plug socket. As I start to apply pressure, I can usually feel the plug (or lug nut, etc.) gradually begin to come free.








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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

that plug number is for that notoriously bad torch brand plug they work or they don't and fail at the worst time. replace it with a NGK of the proper number 
that tool won't get you anywhere, real world real tools, i use a socket for a ohc 4 valve motor thats about 6 inches long and goes right on most of the time, other times a good flex head spark plug socket with a 6 inch extension with a long ratchet 
please keep us up to date on how you make out


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## motion (Dec 21, 2020)

rod330 said:


> I think you've taken the right steps removing the stale gas, replacing it with fresh gas and changing the oil. As a next step, I'd suggest spraying some Starter Fluid directly into the throat of the carb (rather than the float bowl drain hole). You'll probably need to remove the housing surrounding the carb to do that. Using the handle of a screwdriver, give the carb bowl a couple of good taps to potentially free up a stuck needle. Then, with the key in the on position, it should briefly start (unless there's indeed a spark problem). If it fails to continue running, repeat using the Starting Fluid one or two more times. If it does start and then dies, you'll need to clean the carb more thoroughly. If it won't start at all, then focus on removing the plug and checking for proper spark.
> 
> I've used a similar Briggs and Stratton plug wrench to remove nearly every small engine spark plug. It's possible the factory overtorqued it during assembly which will require using a conventional spark plug socket and wrench.
> 
> Let us know if you're unsure where the carb throat is located or how to remove the heater box surrounding the carb.


Thanks for the encouragement, and per your suggestion, I'll try some Starter Fluid into the throat of the carb rather than the float bowl drain hole. Is the throat the same as the jet hole, located directly above the screw that holds the bowl in place? When I was at HD, they referred to that hole as the jet and instructed me to spray some Gumshot carb cleaner up that jet. In an effort to keep all the parts in place, I have not yet removed the bowl entirely, I simply removed the center screw and held the bowl in place when I shot in the carb cleaner.

If it comes to taking apart the carb/cleaning/rebuilding, what benefit is there to paying someone $70 to do that (Home Depot quote), verses buying a new OEM carb for $70 and having them install that?


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## motion (Dec 21, 2020)

captchas said:


> that plug number is for that notoriously bad torch brand plug they work or they don't and fail at the worst time. replace it with a NGK of the proper number
> that tool won't get you anywhere, real world real tools, i use a socket for a ohc 4 valve motor thats about 6 inches long and goes right on most of the time, other times a good flex head spark plug socket with a 6 inch extension with a long ratchet
> please keep us up to date on how you make out


Yes, I've read some stories of others having issue with that Torch F6RTC plug. NGK BPR6ES might be the equivalent. I need to double check unless someone knows off hand.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

motion said:


> Thanks, you all have been great with suggestions. I guess at this point my question would be: any harm in trying the PB blast/penetrating oil, even if no luck? If I can’t get the plug out, I have a mechanic who can come tomorrow night... I just don’t want to compound the problem for him with spraying penetrating oil on the plug, having the oil sit on the plug a day if he in fact needs to take over.


Spray what you have and let it sit. 
I got into the habit of using my air compressor to blow out around the spark plug on ANY machine I am working on.
A lot of times there is some built up grunge sitting around the plug.
A can of air works too.


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

Torch plug on winter 208cc motor from Princess Auto, 2 hr run time and dead and nothing but a hassle from Princess so buy my stuff else where from now on.


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

motion said:


> I'll try some Starter Fluid into the throat of the carb rather than the float bowl drain hole. Is the throat the same as the jet hole, located directly above the screw that holds the bowl in place?


No, the throat (at least as I define it) is the large opening where air is introduced to the carb (see photo). This is the same area where the choke "butterfly" or plate opens and closes. With full choke, the butterfly minimizes air intake to provide a richer fuel mixture by nearly closing the plate. As the engine starts and warms up, you'll gradually turn the choke to the normal "run position" so the butterfly plate is open and no longer restricts air intake.
Unlike lawn mowers, snowblowers do not have an air cleaner so the throat is easier to access once the heater box surrounding the carb is out of the way. Some carbs may have a wire screen covering the intake but there's no need to remove it now.
The air intake throat is shown below; spray Starter Fluid in this area.


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

motion said:


> If it comes to taking apart the carb/cleaning/rebuilding, what benefit is there to paying someone $70 to do that (Home Depot quote), verses buying a new OEM carb for $70 and having them install that?


If you've got a little time, a few basic tools and a little mechanical aptitude you could clean the carb yourself. There are several great YouTube videos and a lot of knowledgeable, helpful folks on this forum who can assist. I wouldn't entrust anyone at Home Depot to clean or replace a carb but I presume they're outsourcing that work to a local small engine shop.


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## motion (Dec 21, 2020)

rod330 said:


> If you've got a little time, a few basic tools and a little mechanical aptitude you could clean the carb yourself. There are several great YouTube videos and a lot of knowledgeable, helpful folks on this forum who can assist. I wouldn't entrust anyone at Home Depot to clean or replace a carb but I presume they're outsourcing that work to a local small engine shop.


I hear ya... I've repaired a washing machine and water heater before with YouTube videos, and I love having a go at attempting a fix, which is why I at least wanted to try some of the more in-reach fixes like starter fluid, carb cleaner, etc. before handing it over to a mechanic. I have an independent mechanic who will come to the house tomorrow night to have a look and/or bring to his shop. I'll want to know what he will charge to clean the carb vs the cost of a new one, if he thinks carb is the issue. As much as I'd like to DIY, I think a mechanic/shop might now be the way to go given holidays coming up/lack of time, the lack of more appropriate wrenches & sockets I would need to buy for the plug, more snow inevitable which means a ticking clock before I'm paying the plow guy again. Lesson learned on my part though to get the old gas out at end of season and test the blower well before the first storm of the season  Really appreciate all the ideas that have been shared, and I'll report back once the blower is fixed so others can hopefully benefit from the solution.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

clean the carb would likely be the cheaper than replacing it especially if the machine is only 1 year old. i usually do carb cleanings on site. if a machine was running last year but not now normally things are not too bad.

if you like trying to fix stuff you should at least try to pickup some proper tools. this is the tool set i have. i am actually on my 2nd set of these. the only change they made was to the case. the old cases sucked which is why my first set pretty much lives in my basement. they go on sale regularly for $40-50 or sometimes for $60 with 18 wrenches. i do most of my small engine automotive work with this set.


https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-socket-set-128-pc-0589220p.html#srp


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

on these snonblowers usually the emulsion tube is plugged as well, remove the flathead jet and tap lightly on the carb stem that the bowl nut bolts into with a brass hammer until the emulsion tube falls out, then probe through all the holes with a bread tie or a cut off end of a lawnmower bail cable. those mtd engines always fell lik4 the hulk tightened them, a long extension with a ratchet should break it free, dont be afraid to use a bit of force it will come out


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

It might not be a bad idea, before spring, or when spring gets here to install a full shutoff valve too. Donyboy73 has a nice video on how to do this on a tractor, but it would be basically the same for the snowblower.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Welcome. . .

Get yourself a real socket wrench set, if you don't already have one. There is no way you are going to be able to loosen a spark plug with that little Powercare tool. FWIW - in addition to a good socket wrench with the proper extensions, I also use a 2 foot section of pipe over the wrench handle to provide enough torque and safely remove spark plugs. 
(make sure you go counter clock-wise to loosen, else you will have a mell of a hess on your hands)

You have described the most common problem with snow blowers . . . no start, not getting fuel. If you can remove the carburetor and take it apart for some cleaning that may be a good approach. You can always buy a new one, but it would be a shame to forfeit a relatively new carburetor.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

If you need a two foot long lever to remove a spark plugs, you are putting them in there with way to much torque.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

RIT333 said:


> If you need a two foot long lever to remove a spark plugs, you are putting them in there with way to much torque.


But he is right about getting a spark plug socket instead of using what he is showing.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

RIT333 said:


> If you need a two foot long lever to remove a spark plugs, you are putting them in there with way to much torque.


I usually only use a breaker bar to remove lug nuts and other things that are torqued at 80lb-ft or more. However, if I encounter a stubborn item such as the spark plug under discussion, I find that the reduced effort of using the big breaker bar allows me to feel the bolt as it's coming loose (or not) so that I don't just snap it off.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

RIT333 said:


> If you need a two foot long lever to remove a spark plugs, you are putting them in there with way to much torque.


Not that you would need it, but it makes loosening the spark plug so much easier and tends to avoid any mishaps that could break the plug.

I install plugs with a regular short handle socket wrench so as not to over torque.


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## motion (Dec 21, 2020)

Hey guys, wanted to update you. The mechanic that was suppose to come by last night had to postpone, so thought I would give it one more go because I hate giving up. I decided to leave spark plug in place for now. I took the bowl off the carb completely this time, and shot carb cleaner up the jet, around the float, and up into the needle area. Bowl itself didn't look dirty. I know this isn't a true carb cleaning, but wanted to give it a shot. Anyway, let it sit overnight, put some gas back in, used electric start -- and it started! Runs fairly smooth on choke/half choke .... but with mid choke or choke off its uneven, and surging. Im thinking of putting the gas back in that had the Mechanic in a Bottle in it, let it run a half hour, as I've read reports sometimes you need to let it do that. Likely would benefit from a full clean and maybe I can take on that job that on now that I have bought some time, but aside from doing that just yet does letting it run awhile with choke off and Mechanic in a Bottle sound worth a shot?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

sounds like you just need to take the float bowl off 1 more time and clean the main jet properly. i usually use a piece of copper telephone wire but if the jet is smaller could always use a twist tie that has had the plastic stripped off. mechanics in a bottle don't really work.


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## Frostikins (Dec 17, 2020)

Watch some yt videos on carb cleaning. The carb is definitely gummed up with old gas.


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## Joe Kuhn (Dec 9, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> sounds like you just need to take the float bowl off 1 more time and clean the main jet properly. i usually use a piece of copper telephone wire but if the jet is smaller could always use a twist tie that has had the plastic stripped off. mechanics in a bottle don't really work.


I take just the bowl off the carb and go up into the main jet area with torch tip cleaners.










Here's a view with the carb removed although you can do this without taking it off the engine.










Use the same cleaner on the nut that holds the bowl on.










Problem is the passage way is an upside down 'T'. You can clean through it from side to side, but cleaning the hole that goes up into the carb is tougher. A good soaking may giterdun.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Joe Kuhn said:


> I take just the bowl off the carb and go up into the main jet area with torch tip cleaners.


i got a whole box of copper telephone wire and twist ties are usually pretty common in almost any house. any new electronics usually come with a handful of twist ties that would work.


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

https://honda-solaray.bg/userfiles/editor/file/Carburettor%20check%20sheet%20GX-series.pdf



your going to want to follow this guide to clean the carburetor, focus on #4 and #5 in the main diagram for now, you will need to unscrew the main jet and tap lightly so the emulsion tube falls out, 99% of the time the main jet is clear but one of the tiny pinholes on the emulsion tube is dirty. if the surging still persists, chances are that #2 the pilot jet is clogged. spraying carb cleaner up through the jet is enough to get it barely running but the only real fix is to remove the emulsion tube


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## captainrob1 (Dec 16, 2018)

For any of our readers that encounter damaged spark plug threads try a nifty tool called a BackTap....available in different sizes you put grease on the end insert in down to the end of the threads and then expand the tool and it cuts new threads as you “back it out” with a socket and the grease captures the filings as you go... worked great


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

motion said:


> Hey guys, wanted to update you. The mechanic that was suppose to come by last night had to postpone, so thought I would give it one more go because I hate giving up. I decided to leave spark plug in place for now. I took the bowl off the carb completely this time, and shot carb cleaner up the jet, around the float, and up into the needle area. Bowl itself didn't look dirty. I know this isn't a true carb cleaning, but wanted to give it a shot. Anyway, let it sit overnight, put some gas back in, used electric start -- and it started! Runs fairly smooth on choke/half choke .... but with mid choke or choke off its uneven, and surging. Im thinking of putting the gas back in that had the Mechanic in a Bottle in it, let it run a half hour, as I've read reports sometimes you need to let it do that. Likely would benefit from a full clean and maybe I can take on that job that on now that I have bought some time, but aside from doing that just yet does letting it run awhile with choke off and Mechanic in a Bottle sound worth a shot?


Glad to hear you got it running. Try some fuel system cleaner (Sea Foam, Injector cleaner, whatever) in the gas for a tank or 2 and see if the surging goes away. Pray for a mechanics socket wrench set as a holiday gift, so you don't have to use the little spark plug tool, which might be fine for installing a plug, but not for removing.

As you may know, surging is caused by a lean fuel mixture, which would indicate that the carb still has a partial blockage. If it does not go away, then you probably need to take the carb off the engine and disassemble it for a more thorough cleaning.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

i would still swap the OEM spark plug for a real ngk if for anything pure safety .


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

captchas said:


> i would still swap the OEM spark plug for a real ngk if for anything pure safety .


Yes, definitely do this, these use a bpr6es spark plug. Just had a new ariens in the other day with a torch that would only backfire and wouldn’t start, ended up being that torch plug. Brand new out of the box!


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## Frostikins (Dec 17, 2020)

captainrob1 said:


> For any of our readers that encounter damaged spark plug threads try a nifty tool called a BackTap....available in different sizes you put grease on the end insert in down to the end of the threads and then expand the tool and it cuts new threads as you “back it out” with a socket and the grease captures the filings as you go... worked great


That is a very cool idea, but there are lots of complaints on Amazon about the expanding parts breaking off in the cylinder.


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## gr0uch0 (Sep 2, 2015)

Agreed with still replacing the plug. To ensure it doesn't happen again (you're going to need to pull it when the season is over to fog the engine), put some anti-seize compound on the plug threads. Never will you have problems again pulling the plug.


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## Joe Kuhn (Dec 9, 2020)

arienskids said:


> https://honda-solaray.bg/userfiles/editor/file/Carburettor%20check%20sheet%20GX-series.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> your going to want to follow this guide to clean the carburetor, focus on #4 and #5 in the main diagram for now, you will need to unscrew the main jet and tap lightly so the emulsion tube falls out, 99% of the time the main jet is clear but one of the tiny pinholes on the emulsion tube is dirty. if the surging still persists, chances are that #2 the pilot jet is clogged. spraying carb cleaner up through the jet is enough to get it barely running but the only real fix is to remove the emulsion tube


That Honda carb guide is awesome as are your instructions.

I used a wire to clean carbs until I couldn't get one clean enough to stop surging. My son put the part I was cleaning under a microscope and we saw dirt all around the edge. Then he cleaned it with a torch tip cleaner and all that fuzzy dirt was gone. The surging stopped and I've used torch tip cleaners ever since.


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

motion said:


> aside from doing that just yet does letting it run awhile with choke off and Mechanic in a Bottle sound worth a shot?


Getting it started is great progress. Now you know the root cause is stale fuel that gummed up the carb and not a spark issue. As others stated, chances are a more thorough carb cleaning will be required. And, eventually replacing the spark plug would be prudent. Having said that, there's no downside to letting it run for a period of time with Mechanic in a Bottle.
In the meantime, some of my favorite YouTube snowblower channels are Donyboy73, Steve's Small Engine Saloon, Taryl Fixes All (without the opening comedy skits), Doublewide6 Repairs, Eliminator Performance, Alex S, Sixtyfiveford and Bruce's Shop.


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