# Restoring Vintage Craftsman Snowblower



## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

I know little to nothing about snowblowers and their operation. I recently came across a very old Craftsman 3 stage "26" The motor was not seized so I decided to try and get it operational. Cleaned out the gas tank, replaced spark plug, fuel line and tried to clean up the carb (just ordered a new carb). It will now start and at this point I need some outside help. I'm pretty sure the engine is a Tecumseh H60 but there are no markings other than the picture of the plate that I attached with a model number. 
Questions:
1. Can anyone tell me what year this snowblower was made?
2. Can I find a users manual for machine? (I have spent numerous hours searching the internet using the model number attached below in the picture.)

Problems at this point:
1. The engine will run when choked. As soon as I start to open the choke it will stall out. I'm hoping the new Carb will fix this but I won't know for a week or so when I get it.
2. The machine was missing the throttle cable going up to the handles. I am unable to get a part number as I can find nothing about this machine online
2a. I believe the linkage on the carb is hooked up wrong. Can someone send me a diagram of how the linkage should be hooked up on top of the carberator?
3. When the machine is on the augers start to turn. I don't think this is correct but am not sure what controls this. Where I would have thought there would be belts between the engine and the auger unit is instead chains and sprockets. I'm assuming my issue is in there but need pointed in the right direction.

Everything else seems to be in working order on this snow beast. Not sure if you can see it from the picture but there are 3 controls on the handle. A lever on the right grip which seems to be the clutch to change gears on the friction drive and then the gear selector and another smaller control which I'm assuming is the throttle control which is missing the cable. I'm having fun with this project and am reaching out for some help. With any luck I'll have a monster snow blower for next to nothing spent. Thank you for any help you can provide


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Typical Cable setup of that era.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

acfair said:


> I know little to nothing about snowblowers and their operation. I recently came across a very old Craftsman 3 stage "26" The motor was not seized so I decided to try and get it operational. Cleaned out the gas tank, replaced spark plug, fuel line and tried to clean up the carb (just ordered a new carb). It will now start and at this point I need some outside help. I'm pretty sure the engine is a Tecumseh H60 but there are no markings other than the picture of the plate that I attached with a model number.
> View attachment 170980
> View attachment 170981
> View attachment 170982
> ...


I can't find a manual using the numbers either.
What is it 9 horse? 26"?
What does it say on the bucket label? 9/26?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

should be fun to watch you restore this. did you google model #?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Welcome to SBF. The Sears engine number translates to Tecumseh H60-75264G, if you need to order engine parts. The serial number 7181, using the 7, it is probably a 1977 or 1987?? The machine was made by Murray and I couldn't find a manual either.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

> The serial number 7181, using the 7, it is probably a 1977 or 1987?


I'm thinking 1977 as the engine appears to be using points+condenser.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

db130 said:


> I'm thinking 1977 as the engine appears to be using points+condenser.


I think you're a decade or two too late. The Searsasaurus was from the mid 70's and this one predates that from a decade or more. Think more in the early to mid 60's, my best guess. It could be earlier, I had a 60's unit and that was red and black,


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

HCBPH said:


> I think you're a decade or two too late. The Searsasaurus was from the mid 70's and this one predates that from a decade or more. Think more in the early to mid 60's, my best guess. It could be earlier, I had a 60's unit and that was red and black,


Yeah I think you're right! Even in '71 Sears was putting an H70 on their 26" 3-stage...keeping pace with AMF.


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

Check this "older" string Craftsman Drift King 536-82560


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Big Ed said:


> I can't find a manual using the numbers either.
> What is it 9 horse? 26"?
> What does it say on the bucket label? 9/26?


The bucket says Craftsman 3 Stage Twenty Six
The further I get into the research I believe it is a 7 hp Tecumseh engine


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> should be fun to watch you restore this. did you google model #?


Yes. I tried googling every number I can find on it. I found a picture of a similar looking 2 stage Craftsman in a 1964 Sears Catalog. Lol


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

HCBPH said:


> I think you're a decade or two too late. The Searsasaurus was from the mid 70's and this one predates that from a decade or more. Think more in the early to mid 60's, my best guess. It could be earlier, I had a 60's unit and that was red and black,


I found a picture of a similar 2 stage snowblower in the 1964 Sears Catalog. The mid to late 70s version the controls look a little different. I'm beginning to think it is a mid 60s model like you are suggesting


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

I will post more once I get the new carb put on. It should be arriving Monday. I am pretty sure that should take care of any issues with the engine running. My next big thing will be to figure out why the auger is always turning. It turns once the machine is started and the RPMs get going. I would think that it should only turn when it's in drive and moving but I could be wrong. Possible clutch linkage issue. I did not notice any idler pulleys. The auger is run by chains and not belts. Thank you for all the responses


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would assume your disc drive system needs adjustment, as the augers should not spin when you start it up, unless the drive lever is out of adjustment or something is broke, bent or missing. You would have to pull some covers and do so inspection detective work to see what is going on.

If I had that unit, after I got it running properly, I would break it down, give it a nice paint job, and get some current XTrac tires on it ... That machine looks like a beast, and should give you years of operational enjoyment.

FWIW ... my Yardman 7101 from that era is a 26 inch and has a 7HP Tecumseh on it. Great engine.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

acfair said:


> The bucket says Craftsman 3 Stage Twenty Six
> The further I get into the research I believe it is a 7 hp Tecumseh engine


Welcome to SBF acfair









The research will tell you what it came off the showroom floor with but since you have engine model and serial numbers that's what you need to use for parts. Anything that old may well have had a transplant. 


.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

acfair said:


> I will post more once I get the new carb put on. It should be arriving Monday.


I think you intended to post this in your thread - - > Restoring Vintage Craftsman Snowblower 
This threaad is three years old.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

this is the front of engine and what drives the Auger. Surprised to find chains.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

acfair said:


> I know little to nothing about snowblowers and their operation. I recently came across a very old Craftsman 3 stage "26" The motor was not seized so I decided to try and get it operational. Cleaned out the gas tank, replaced spark plug, fuel line and tried to clean up the carb (just ordered a new carb). It will now start and at this point I need some outside help. I'm pretty sure the engine is a Tecumseh H60 but there are no markings other than the picture of the plate that I attached with a model number.
> Questions:
> 1. Can anyone tell me what year this snowblower was made?
> 2. Can I find a users manual for machine? (I have spent numerous hours searching the internet using the model number attached below in the picture.)
> ...





acfair said:


> I know little to nothing about snowblowers and their operation. I recently came across a very old Craftsman 3 stage "26" The motor was not seized so I decided to try and get it operational. Cleaned out the gas tank, replaced spark plug, fuel line and tried to clean up the carb (just ordered a new carb). It will now start and at this point I need some outside help. I'm pretty sure the engine is a Tecumseh H60 but there are no markings other than the picture of the plate that I attached with a model number.
> Questions:
> 1. Can anyone tell me what year this snowblower was made?
> 2. Can I find a users manual for machine? (I have spent numerous hours searching the internet using the model number attached below in the picture.)
> ...


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Here are the pictures I posted earlier. They were deleted because I posted them wrong. I hope this is correct.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I think you intended to post this in your thread - - > Restoring Vintage Craftsman Snowblower
> This threaad is three years old.


You are correct. Thank you


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

• 14 h ago

I will post more once I get the new carb put on. It should be arriving Monday. I am pretty sure that should take care of any issues with the engine running. My next big thing will be to figure out why the auger is always turning. It turns once the machine is started and the RPMs get going. I would think that it should only turn when it's in drive and moving but I could be wrong. Possible clutch linkage issue. I did not notice any idler pulleys. The auger is run by chains and not belts. Thank you for all the responses


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

acfair said:


> • 14 h ago
> 
> I will post more once I get the new carb put on. It should be arriving Monday. I am pretty sure that should take care of any issues with the engine running. My next big thing will be to figure out why the auger is always turning. It turns once the machine is started and the RPMs get going. I would think that it should only turn when it's in drive and moving but I could be wrong. Possible clutch linkage issue. I did not notice any idler pulleys. The auger is run by chains and not belts. Thank you for all the responses


That might be normal? My old 63 Snowbird runs the auger by chain but only turns when in gear.
My 5/22 Craftsman is the same. I never fooled with a 3 stage, I doubt if that is normal. Sounds more like something out of adjustment.
Do you have a manual yet?
That would help a lot. Help us look at the setup too.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

What you have there is a centrifugal clutch. Like on a go cart or minibike. It was used on the earlier models. As the engine comes up off idle it works like brake shoes and a brake drum. The shoes spin out and grab the drum that's attached to the gear and the auger and impeller start spinning. Not that good for safety but gets the job done.




__





centrifugal clutch at DuckDuckGo


DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.




duckduckgo.com





Later models will have belts up front and a pulley to take the slack out of the belt and thereby engage the impeller/auger.

Your photos were OK it's just that they were posted in triplicate. Before hitting "Post" or "Post Reply" it's best to hit "Preview" and see what you have. I know I sometimes get confused when posting photos or attachments on if it needs to be a thumbnail, full size or just attached. Play with it before you post and you can see what the differences are.
I suggested to a mod to pull the second and third set of duplicates just to make it easier to read the post had no clue they'd pull them all ... sorry.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

You can go back and edit the first post to insert the pictures back, if you want.
Don't forget to click save.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Very interesting well built machine and seldom seen. 
I will be very interested in following your restoration of this cool machine.
Lot's of photos are also appreciated.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Never saw the centrifugal clutch on a blower ... I had one on my go cart years ago..... interesting.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

oneacer said:


> Never saw the centrifugal clutch on a blower ... I had one on my go cart years ago..... interesting.


I actually have at least in a picture. It was from back in the 50's and would automatically engage the auger when the engine speed got over a certain rpm range. That one's even scarier than the red and black one I had.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Big Ed said:


> That might be normal? My old 63 Snowbird runs the auger by chain but only turns when in gear.
> My 5/22 Craftsman is the same. I never fooled with a 3 stage, I doubt if that is normal. Sounds more like something out of adjustment.
> Do you have a manual yet?
> That would help a lot. Help us look at the setup too.


I can't find a manual anywhere online. I've googled the snow blower every way I can think of for the past week and nothing.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

The way I'm beginning to understand the operation of this unit, at least the auger side of things, is that the auger is going to turn once the engine reaches a certain rpm. The auger will then stop turning once it gets below that rpm. That is what the centrifugal clutch is doing. Please tell me if this sounds correct. Sounds super dangerous but somehow people managed to survive the 60's even with this snowblower around.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> What you have there is a centrifugal clutch. Like on a go cart or minibike. It was used on the earlier models. As the engine comes up off idle it works like brake shoes and a brake drum. The shoes spin out and grab the drum that's attached to the gear and the auger and impeller start spinning. Not that good for safety but gets the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No worries. I was actually trying for an hour or two to edit the post because I noticed the pictures were on there multiple times, making it difficult to follow. Well this clears up one major concern of mine / non concern. The machine operates as it should. RPM's up, Auger engages

Any idea if this machine is a '57 or a '67? The Tecumseh serial number on the engine narrows it down to a year ending in 7. I know there is a possibility this is not the original engine but it's the best I have to go off from.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> What you have there is a centrifugal clutch. Like on a go cart or minibike. It was used on the earlier models. As the engine comes up off idle it works like brake shoes and a brake drum. The shoes spin out and grab the drum that's attached to the gear and the auger and impeller start spinning. Not that good for safety but gets the job done.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


when one was deleted they all disappeared, somehow they were all linked as one inside the post


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm pretty sure you can edit out photos but then again I haven't done it as a Mod with the new format. I do know it's difficult figuring out where my cursor is at when trying to edit my own photos so ... maybe selective editing isn't possible any longer.

I'm positive the machine isn't a 50's they were pretty bare bones. I would peg it at the '67 level due to the cent clutch, lack of safety features and general construction. It's a stout machine. I have a slightly newer version 1032 with geared transmission. Have you looked at the transmission yet to see if it's a friction disc or actual geared transmission. HCBPH would likely know off hand but I'm not the expert. Have to say I do love mine.
Mine came with a seized third stage drive chain. Bought a couple feet of chain and a new master link.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I would agree, definitely not from the 50's, if engine is original (which it appears to be) then 1967 sounds right.
So probably a 1968 model machine with the engine manufactured in July 1967.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I'm pretty sure you can edit out photos but then again I haven't done it as a Mod with the new format. I do know it's difficult figuring out where my cursor is at when trying to edit my own photos so ... maybe selective editing isn't possible any longer.
> 
> I'm positive the machine isn't a 50's they were pretty bare bones. I would peg it at the '67 level due to the cent clutch, lack of safety features and general construction. It's a stout machine. I have a slightly newer version 1032 with geared transmission. Have you looked at the transmission yet to see if it's a friction disc or actual geared transmission. HCBPH would likely know off hand but I'm not the expert. Have to say I do love mine.
> Mine came with a seized third stage drive chain. Bought a couple feet of chain and a new master link.
> ...


Friction Disk drive.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I'm pretty sure you can edit out photos but then again I haven't done it as a Mod with the new format. I do know it's difficult figuring out where my cursor is at when trying to edit my own photos so ... maybe selective editing isn't possible any longer.
> 
> I'm positive the machine isn't a 50's they were pretty bare bones. I would peg it at the '67 level due to the cent clutch, lack of safety features and general construction. It's a stout machine. I have a slightly newer version 1032 with geared transmission. Have you looked at the transmission yet to see if it's a friction disc or actual geared transmission. HCBPH would likely know off hand but I'm not the expert. Have to say I do love mine.
> Mine came with a seized third stage drive chain. Bought a couple feet of chain and a new master link.
> ...


Mine does not say "driftbreaker" on the decal. It says Craftsman 3 stage 26. It does have the 3rd stage upper auger thing. Does that make it a driftbreaker? Can I formally call it a 1967-1968 Craftsman Driftbreaker?


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

That centrifugal clutch will have some type of bearing on the that spins when clutch is not engaged at idle. It might be a Neadle bearing that might require some grease or a oul lite brass bushing that might need oil. That is what I rememember from minibike days


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I would think it's a roller bearing but it could be a needle bearing. I doubt it's just a bushing as it would wear out too soon from when it's idling. But it's been over 45 yrs since I've messed with one so .... what good am I ??

All the three stage Craftsman machines I've see have been referred to as DriftBreaker. I'd call it a DriftBreaker as that's how we know them on the forum but it might be that Sears/Craftsman didn't start using that name for a year or two after yours. I'm just guessing there but HCBPH might know.




acfair said:


> The way I'm beginning to understand the operation of this unit, at least the auger side of things, is that the auger is going to turn once the engine reaches a certain rpm. The auger will then stop turning once it gets below that rpm. That is what the centrifugal clutch is doing. Please tell me if this sounds correct. Sounds super dangerous but somehow people managed to survive the 60's even with this snowblower around.


That's exactly how it works and that's exactly why it's non OSHA approved







If you need to stop the auger or impeller you have to throttle down and the assembly has to spin down on it's own. No friction brake, no nothing. Something gets caught, shirt sleeve, jacket, dog's tail ... machine is going to try and suck it in and throw it out. It's not something you want pets or children anywhere near and might even rethink at what age you'd let one of your kids operate it. Heaven forbid you ever come across that extension cord you forgot was across the driveway to the battery charger on you car. DON"T ASK








Haven't done it on my rider but I've done it twice on my walkbehinds. Too many cars, too many battery tenders too old and feeble to remember.

.


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

Looks like a good storage place for the cord, neatly wound up anyway's??


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Thought of one more thing to maybe help date the blower, assuming the engine is original. Is it a Lauson or a Tecumseh? If it's Lauson then it is very likely from the 50's, if Tecumseh then more likely late 50's on.
Be sure to look for the actual tag, not the shape. Lauson was bought out apparently in 1956 so use that a pivot point.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Update:
New carb came in the mail today. It is a cheap aftermarket carb that was $17 on amazon. Short story is that I hooked it up and it works! The thing runs like a beast. Long story is that the choke lever on the carb goes the opposite direction as the OEM carb therefore without modifications it doesn't fit. It hits the bracket that fits over the carb and it doesn't stick out the housing. Anyways, I bent the choke lever over so it was operational and didn't hit any of the bracket or linkage and it it works great. With all this said I don't like it. I am going to get a rebuild kit for the stock carb, clean that up and put it back on. The new one works I just don't like how it looks. I am going to post a couple of questions in another post with pictures of things that came up today. But as of this moment I have an operational snow blower. Just need some minor adjustments...


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

When I got the machine there was a black fuel line with a fuel filter that went to the rear of the machine by the pull start (pictured below). I attempted to recreate that set up but I think I made it to long and the fuel wasn't getting to the carb (fuel filter created a valley). I was going to make the set up shorter but noticed a perfect sized hole in the housing for a fuel line. One right next to the fuel tank and the other right next to the carburetor. I decided to run a straight line through those holes (Also, pictured below). The problem being there isn't room for a fuel filter. Does anyone see an issue with this set up? Does anyone know what the original set up was? Carb gets gas now.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Once I got the machine up and running I noticed that there was a broken spring hanging off the bottom in the friction disc drive area. I have attached a picture below with an arrow pointing to the spring that was broken. It's not a great picture, I will take another if necessary. What purpose does this spring serve? Does anyone know a part number? The best I can tell is that it works in unison with the spring on the left side of the picture and when you depress the lever on the handle it pulls the rubber wheel from the drive disc and the springs help to return. It appears to drive in all the gears and work as it should. Perhaps it brings more tension, holding the rubber wheel on the friction disc creating more torque?????? Just a guess. Please help


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

I have attached a picture of the current throttle linkage configuration. I purchased the spring new because the old one was rusty and didn't "spring." Does anyone know if this appears to be the correct configuration for the 2 linkage pieces? It seems to operate as it should. I've so many different diagrams and pictures of machines that are similar to mine, just nothing that is the same as mine. The bracket that attaches over the carburetor has what seems to be 100 different configurations. If this is the correct set up for these 2 linkage pieces am I correct in assuming that the throttle cable from the handle bars would attach to the loop on the linkage where the crimp piece is (bottom of picture where I have the spring attached to)?


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Once I got the machine up and running I noticed that there was a broken spring hanging off the bottom in the friction disc drive area. I have attached a picture below with an arrow pointing to the spring that was broken. It's not a great picture, I will take another if necessary. What purpose does this spring serve? Does anyone know a part number? The best I can tell is that it works in unison with the spring on the left side of the picture and when you depress the lever on the handle it pulls the rubber wheel from the drive disc and the springs help to return. It appears to drive in all the gears and work as it should. Perhaps it brings more tension, holding the rubber wheel on the friction disc creating more torque?????? Just a guess.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

acfair said:


> When I got the machine there was a black fuel line with a fuel filter that went to the rear of the machine by the pull start (pictured below). I attempted to recreate that set up but I think I made it to long and the fuel wasn't getting to the carb (fuel filter created a valley). I was going to make the set up shorter but noticed a perfect sized hole in the housing for a fuel line. One right next to the fuel tank and the other right next to the carburetor. I decided to run a straight line through those holes (Also, pictured below). The problem being there isn't room for a fuel filter. Does anyone see an issue with this set up? Does anyone know what the original set up was? Carb gets gas now.


You now have the gas line run as it was from the factory. 
IMHO There should be no need for you to add a filter. Most machines do not come with an inline filter as there is usually a mesh style filter in the filler neck in the gas tank and/or a sock type filter on the gas tank outlet fitting.
Make sure you give your gas tank a thorough cleaning to remove rust and debris from the bottom. It is also a good idea to clean out your gas can periodically to remove any dirt or debris.

Gas line routing on the 5 hp Tecumseh on my 1969 Ariens


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

I duno... looking at the pictures of the old machine, it looks like a 1970 or 1971 unit. Look at the following page from the 1971 Sears Fall & Winter catalog.






1971 Sears Fall Winter Catalog, Page 1013 - Catalogs & Wishbooks


1971 Sears Fall Winter Catalog, Page 1013



christmas.musetechnical.com


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

acfair said:


> Update:
> New carb came in the mail today. It is a cheap aftermarket carb that was $17 on amazon. Short story is that I hooked it up and it works! The thing runs like a beast. Long story is that the choke lever on the carb goes the opposite direction as the OEM carb therefore without modifications it doesn't fit. It hits the bracket that fits over the carb and it doesn't stick out the housing. Anyways, I bent the choke lever over so it was operational and didn't hit any of the bracket or linkage and it it works great. With all this said I don't like it. I am going to get a rebuild kit for the stock carb, clean that up and put it back on. The new one works I just don't like how it looks. I am going to post a couple of questions in another post with pictures of things that came up today. But as of this moment I have an operational snow blower. Just need some minor adjustments...


I had same choke issue on a replacement China carb. I was able to unbolt the choke butterfly to remove choke shaft and swap shafts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SnowPlow1 (Oct 26, 2013)

If I'm correct? going by the stamped date code off your engine tag in photo 7181. The craftsman Model 143. Crosses over to the actual Tecumseh model is (H60-75264G) 

Now using the 4 digit serial number 7181.
7) Seventh year, 181) 181st day = Friday June 30,1967 is when the engine was built. 

My Tecumseh factory IPL's (illstraited parts lists), The large book binder shows your model listed in this "IPL" was issued Feb 1967- revised July 1972. for your model listed. So this help backs some of my claim in a way for a year.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

groomerz said:


> I had same choke issue on a replacement China carb. I was able to unbolt the choke butterfly to remove choke shaft and swap shafts.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My china carb did not have the option to remove the choke lever, at least not that I could tell. It came in a white unmarked box with no paperwork and not a make or model number anywhere on the carb. I purchased the $4.00 Tecumseh carb repair kit and spent about 20 minutes cleaning up the old carb and now it works good as new. I have a cheap replacement carb to add to my junk drawer with a bent choke lever now, oh and the air filter and unbranded spark plug that amazon sent with it. lol


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

SnowPlow1 said:


> If I'm correct? going by the stamped date code off your engine tag in photo 7181. The craftsman Model 143. Crosses over to the actual Tecumseh model is (H60-75264G)
> 
> Now using the 4 digit serial number 7181.
> 7) Seventh year, 181) 181st day = Friday June 30,1967 is when the engine was built.
> ...


Some earlier posts suggested that the snowblower could be anywhere from mid 60's to mid 70's. This is great information on the engine that you have provided. I'm assuming this engine could have been slapped on any snowblower craftsman produced probably for the next few years. Another poster showed that in 1971 Craftsman started putting 7hp Tecumseh engines on their 26" machines so the snowblower could be anywhere from 1967-1970 I'm thinking.


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

Ziggy65 said:


> You now have the gas line run as it was from the factory.
> IMHO There should be no need for you to add a filter. Most machines do not come with an inline filter as there is usually a mesh style filter in the filler neck in the gas tank and/or a sock type filter on the gas tank outlet fitting.
> Make sure you give your gas tank a thorough cleaning to remove rust and debris from the bottom. It is also a good idea to clean out your gas can periodically to remove any dirt or debris.
> 
> ...


This engine looks beautiful. Did you take it entirely apart, sandblast and paint or were you able to keep it together and do this project?


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## acfair (Dec 3, 2020)

I'm sure this post will set off some sparks. ethanol (I believe the gas at the gas station has 10-15% ethanol) or non ethanol gas? I've heard strong opinions both ways. It's difficult to find gas with no ethanol these days and I'm sure when this engine was built in 1967 there was no ethanol in the gasoline. Thoughts? Will it harm the engine to run ethanol?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

It won't harm the engine @acfair but you should be diligent about maintaining fresh, stabilized fuel in the machine (_the carb bowl & tank are both vented to atmosphere_). I'm lucky enough to have E0 a few miles from my house...but back when I didn't, I would only buy E10 in small amounts, immediately add stabilizer and try to use it up every 60-90 days.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Reg fuel is fine..... I put Stabil and half the rate of SeaFoam in all my 5 gallon gas cans when I fill them. All my equipment, new and old, summer and winter, have full tanks of fuel, never have I ever had a fuel issue, and I never drain or run out gas. I do periodically start all my equipment, even out of season units, as I am a believer of never letting any equipment just sitting there not being used. (I believe the max ethanol is 10% by law)

BTW, I would surmise that engine is circa 1970 ........


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## kd8tzc (Dec 6, 2020)

@classiccat, I had to chuckle when looking at your signature... I thought I was the only person who named his machines. . I've been trying to think of a good one for my new Ariens.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

kd8tzc said:


> @classiccat, I had to chuckle when looking at your signature... I thought I was the only person who named his machines. . I've been trying to think of a good one for my new Ariens.


Technically i haven't named my (noname) Toro 826 ...however considering the trouble that she's been giving me, it wouldn't a name I that can share on this forum!


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## wildave (1 mo ago)

Big Ed said:


> I can't find a manual using the numbers either.
> What is it 9 horse? 26"?
> What does it say on the bucket label? 9/26?


It's a 6 horse, I have one


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

(I know this is a 2 year old thread that just got revived, but still..ill continue the debate)  The Tecumseh H60 6hp engine was used in 1967 and 1977, and appears to be virtually unchanged over that decade. but based on some other details posted in this thread, mainly the fact that it's a "larger" 26-inch machine with a 6hp, which would have been far less likely by '77, I would agree it's 90% likely that it's 1967. 1967 fits everything the best.

Scot


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