# 5/23 Track Drive Rebuild Thread



## PZL523

New guy here... great form! I want to share my experience as well as utilize the knowledge and help that I know is out there. More over, contribute back to the Craftsman forum community. 

Ive had this old Craftsman at the house for a loooog time, im only 28... but I just cant part with it! Shes been a tank and still keeps on working so I owe her a bit of TLC, at the least.

Ive done a few things over the past few winters but I feel like I need to go to the next level in order to continue the same reliability as ive come to expect. I love projects such as this one but as ive learned may times over, my homework needs to be done first before diving in.

A little back ground on my unit:
Model #536.884810; Code 8302
Craftsman II 8 Speed 5/23 Trackdrive
4 Cycle Engine

Maintenance performed:
Oil Changes, almost every season
Spark Plugs
New drive belts
Auger Gear Gasket
New Shute
Carb rebuild kit
Rebuilt trackdrive, grease everything! 2x
Friction Plate
Fuel Fitting
Fuel Line
Primer fuel line
Height Skids

So I solved the locked up trackdrive, the poorly running engine, and the busted shute. She runs fine other than all the noise in front of the engine, I think... Feels like I need some bearings or need to clean/rebuild a thing or two. Could easily be smoother down in there somewhere. Now im a big "while we're in there, change that part too" guy, on a budget of course, and see the value in "doing it right". What can I say, I like projects! 

Goals:

Find out, specifically, what kind of engine I have? 5hp?
What does the Code mean after the Model#?
Clean and paint the rusted ol bucket. Stock colors: Black and Grey 
Replace a few parts here and there
Grease this and that
All new decals. (my old man is a signs/graphics guy)
Basically try and fix it up to "cats ass" status. 

Im hoping for some guidance before I start ripping things apart. I didn't find a ton of info on my craftsman here on the form. Hankfard recently did a 5/23 restoration but didn't do a build thread  but either way I plan on reaching out to him. Any feed back or in sight is greatly appreciated!


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## detdrbuzzard

hello pzl. welcome to *SBF!!* your craftsman looks to have held up well over the years


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## db9938

Welcome, and most Craftsman run with Tecumseh engines. And whatever you do in your restoration, make darn sure to take plenty of pics.


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## guilateen02

Just picked up my first trac drive. It's an 8\25 and it's going to be an adventure. Mine was pretty neglected. Missing a pulley cover and heater box cover, trac really stiff,and a couple bolts snapped off on the 8hp tec dual shaft block. Ill be following the thread and the race is on.


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## Grunt

Hello and welcome to the forum PZL523. The 536. number indicates your machine was manufactured by Murray who is now owned by Briggs & Stratton. Right above the sticker on the recoil that says this engine has provisions for electric start, you will see numbers stamped into the shroud. These numbers will help identify your engine specifically. I know it is a Tecumseh 5 hp, but the other numbers will tell us what parts your engine uses.
Here is a link to the engine service manual.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## PZL523

Thanks for the warm welcome guys!

Good call on checking the shroud for my engine model number Grunt, thanks. Its not easy to read but I think I can figure it out. I didn't get much done at work today, studying the link to the engine manual . I also found a bunch of good videos on youtube about these engines too. 

I got some progress today. Took off the belt cover, chute and the belly cover. **** mice like making a home in my 523 . Seem to find their way in every year. Anyways, I gave everything a good inspection. Belts I put on last year are already missing chunks and rust is slowly taking over. I wonder if the belts are wearing out quicker due to stressed out springs and rough pullies. Whats the best place to source belts? I have a SEARS and Tractor Supply along my travels.

Is it really as easy to pull the engine as it seems? Just 4 bolts, 2 belts and she out? 

Here are some pics of tonights work. Its going to be a slow process but ill try and keep moving.


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## PZL523

Snowblower motor

I found this on craigslist. Seems like a perfect match with electric start. My engine runs fine but this one is so much cleaner. I like the idea of having a parts engine...

Should I jump on it?


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## Grunt

Yes, pulling the engine is as simple as you thought. The $80 engine APPEARS to be in good shape cosmetically, the unknown fact is if it was maintained to keep it mechanically sound. Another more important consideration is, your engine has a drive pulley on the cam shaft also, does the NEW engine have ONE or TWO pulleys. Single shaft engines are common, two shafts are harder to find. The second smaller drive pulley is for traction drive and rotates in the opposite direction of the main shaft.


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## PZL523

Grunt said:


> Yes, pulling the engine is as simple as you thought. The $80 engine APPEARS to be in good shape cosmetically, the unknown fact is if it was maintained to keep it mechanically sound. Another more important consideration is, your engine has a drive pulley on the cam shaft also, does the NEW engine have ONE or TWO pulleys. Single shaft engines are common, two shafts are harder to find. The second smaller drive pulley is for traction drive and rotates in the opposite direction of the main shaft.


Right, ill keep an eye out for the double pulley setup. Im new with these engines so I have a lot to learn. The CL guy has yet to get back to me so no up dates yet on the find.

So the engine came off last night. Easy as pie. Nice having it out of the way to pick at the rest of the unit.


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## PZL523

I rolled up the sleeves last night and got some more work done. I have my 523 separated into 4 main pieces. Engine, back hf, front hf and the auger assembly.

Getting the auger housing off the auger was a bit of a pain. I used some penetrating oil to loosen things up and im sure it helped but the square key holding the pulley was on there good. After an hr of beating and cussing it came out. Needed to use a pickle fork and a gear puller for the bearing and housing to come off. Hope I didn't bent the auger pulley any more than it already was but we'll have to find out later. Sears wants $60.00 for the pulley. Also the pulley bearing and retainer $65.00 needs to be replaced, another expensive item... Anyone know of a different source or should I stay with Sears on this one?

I plan on having the auger housing abrasive blasted and primed next week or so. What color name or number is this grey? Anyone know or use something close?


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## PZL523

Made some progress with the blower. Ive taken it apart for painting as im waiting for parts to arrive. Just going to be coating the auger, impeller, housing, handles and stuff. 

One thing I noticed that could be odd is the auger shaft gear, the one that spins off of the worm gear. Seems to have shifted over, exposing the woodruff key a bit. See picture. Also I can see how the two gears are wearing on each other and its not centered. So I banged the shaft with the gear on a piece of wood on the ground and after three or four times it settled back a bit. Hope it stays put...

Parts should be in by Friday and she can start going back together. So far no snow for me up in New England so not missing out.

Im also going to look into the impellor mod. Guys at work should have a scrap mud flap or something laying around in the shop.


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## HCBPH

*Auger gearcase*

I have not had that machine but similar ones though older. I suspect on your auger gear moving issue that the bushings on the auger shaft may be worn or shot.
I suspect this is the part you need if I'm right, but check to be sure:

I suspect in actuallity your machine is a MTD. I don't remember all the history between who bought what and when so I can't be absolutely sure but the auger case looks very MTD to me vs Murray.


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## PZL523

HCBPH said:


> I have not had that machine but similar ones though older. I suspect on your auger gear moving issue that the bushings on the auger shaft may be worn or shot.
> I suspect this is the part you need if I'm right, but check to be sure:
> 
> I suspect in actuallity your machine is a MTD. I don't remember all the history between who bought what and when so I can't be absolutely sure but the auger case looks very MTD to me vs Murray.


Craftsman subs all Murray parts on their website so must be Murray. 
  *SEAL, OIL CR 530552*

$5.35 
$10.70 
  *Murray 53743MA Sleeve Bearing 1x1.25x1 Replaces 724424, 313870*

$5.97 
$11.94 
  *WASHER, FLAT 1.00*

$7.40 
$14.80

This is what im thinking of ordering. Someone must have opened the gear case in the past because its missing a flat washer on the right side of the pic. Most likely the reason for it shifting out of place im assuming.


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## HCBPH

*Washer*

Is it a washer or a flange bushing? The ones I've torn down have had a bronze flange bushing on either side of the case along with on the impeller shaft (2 different sizes there). Anything is possible so good luck on getting your parts.


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## PZL523

HCBPH said:


> Is it a washer or a flange bushing? The ones I've torn down have had a bronze flange bushing on either side of the case along with on the impeller shaft (2 different sizes there). Anything is possible so good luck on getting your parts.


Its a washer that im missing. The parts diagram shows it on both sides of the gear. I also ordered the 2 bronze bushings and oil seals for good measure. Hope its the right bushing... ill find out next week when it comes in.


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## PZL523

I got some more work done over the weekend. The auger housing is back from being abrasive blasted and epoxy primed. I did the other pieces in house with a wire wheel and some sand paper. Came out ok. I decided to save the majority of the stickers and just taped over them. Over all they weren't all that bad. A few will need to be made up. So its slowly coming back together. I need one more box of parts to come in and I can wrap up the impeller and auger.

Check it out!


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## HCBPH

*Misc*

That auger case if different from the ones I've had so it's very likely the gearcase may be different also. That explains alot.


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## guilateen02

PZL523 that thing is coming out.sweet. My 8\25 has been putting up a fight. Every bolt was a pain to remove and the engine needed lots of loving. I haven't enen touched the auger and bucket yet. Ive also been delaying in the process due to the holidays fiasco. Engine is up and running beautifully nut just sitting on my work bench which has mutated to my gift wrap station


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## guilateen02

Hopefully soon Ill ne back in action.


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## PZL523

thanks guilateel02! Sorry to hear about the struggle with the bolts. I have a 96 Toyota rust bucket ive been wrenching and I totally know how you feel. Make sure you let all your nuts and bolts soak with penetrating oil for a day or two before taking stuff apart. Makes a huge difference! 

So far no snow in the NE forecast so were in good shape  keep wrenching!


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## PZL523

HCBPH said:


> That auger case if different from the ones I've had so it's very likely the gearcase may be different also. That explains alot.


For as long as ive had it, like 8 years, the gear case has always leaked oil, a drop or two over night. Even after a new paper gasket. Hope I get it right this time with another paper gasket and seals.


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## jermar

I would like to offer an additional suggestion. I have the 4/20 Trac. The plastic shrouding has many gaps. When the wind blows, the snow on the plastic melts and drips onto the friction plate. Big time slippage. I took some sliced foam and used it to fill the gaps. Then I used Permatex Ultra Black silicone to seal it in place.


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## PZL523

jermar said:


> I would like to offer an additional suggestion. I have the 4/20 Trac. The plastic shrouding has many gaps. When the wind blows, the snow on the plastic melts and drips onto the friction plate. Big time slippage. I took some sliced foam and used it to fill the gaps. Then I used Permatex Ultra Black silicone to seal it in place.


Yah I can see how water would effect the friction wheel if wet or greasy and cause problems. Behind/under the 5/23's plastic belt shroud doesnt leave the friction wheel exposed. Its like under the engine closed off on all sides so I feel ok with it being sealed from elements as it is. But I do have mice finding their way in around the friction wheel so somewhere I do have an opening...


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## classiccat

top notch work on this machine!!!



guilateen02 said:


> Hopefully soon Ill ne back in action.












guilateen...Kudos for not getting greasy fingerprints all over that giftwrap


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## PZL523

So I fiiiiiiiiiinaly got in my package with the last of the parts I needed to wrap things up but some how a washer magically turned into a cheep clutch arm so now im waiting another week for another package for a dumb washer







. If I find a quick hardware store sub ill just drop that in but I doubt it.


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## Eyeboltman

Looking Great . Nice work .


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## RoyP

I really liked the paint job on your blower housing....what did that cost you.


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## PZL523

RoyP said:


> I really liked the paint job on your blower housing....what did that cost you.


Thanks! Me too, I work closely with some guys who do abrasive blasting and painting on the side and this was a favor but $50 sounds about right.


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## PZL523

Happy New Year Gang! 

So Equipatron.com sent me the wrong part AGAIN!!!







I caved in and just got a few machine bushing from the local hardware store that were a close match







. So now I was finally able to close up the auger gear housing and put things back together. The auger housing now has new: Flange Bering, Roller Bearing, Ring Quad, Flat Washers, Sleeve Bearings, Oil Seals, Bearing and Retainer Assembly, Belt Pulley, and a Gearbox Gasket, oh and new synthetic gear oil.

I also finished up the impellor mod, you know, the bolted on rubber wipers, im curious to see how well it works. Hope I don't run into "out of balance" issues. Only one way to find out!









A few decals have been made up. "Craftzman 5/23" and " 10'' impeller". The impeller sticker is too big so its being redone.







Should see it in the next post or two.

Should be able to finish it up this week with a little luck!


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## PZL523

I had sometime last night to mate up the front end to see how things are working. There were a few set backs, like I put on the pulley back wards and lost a hour and seems like the new belt I have is too tight. But other than that shes a runner! Much more smooth and quieter than before.

A question for the experts if I may... need some help here

When I disengage the auger clutch the pulley releases tension off of the auger drive belt and a brake pad stops the belt pulley from turning the auger. So basically when you let go, everything up front should stop. In my case it just keeps spinning. The belt starts smoking and looks to be a problem. It is a new belt from Sears and I expect a little break-in but like this?

So I flipped over the brake pad to get a newer wearing surface but still the same thing, it keeps spinning and smoking the belt...


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## PZL523

So turns out that the reason that the auger drive belt was smoking is that the adjustable pulley was maxed out to the tightest position. I didn't notice that at first. I backed it off and were good to go now. 
Good call on that one guys, thanks for the help!









So the rebuild is complete for now. Had a few inches of light snow on Friday and fired her up for a few runs up and down the driveway . She throws snow much farther and moves smoother so were in a good place!









Looking forward to some deeper and heavier snow!


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## creeve4

PZL523, How does your blower do with wet and compacted snow? I'm considering a similar model and am curious how it will perform in these conditions.


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## PZL523

creeve4 said:


> PZL523, How does your blower do with wet and compacted snow? I'm considering a similar model and am curious how it will perform in these conditions.


Well the 523 definitely needs to slow down to a slower gear to let it chew the heavy snow. Im pretty sure that goes for all snowblowers though. With the winter we had up here in NE last year it never failed me and cleared the driveway every time. If your concerned about the heavy stuff id suggest stick to a 2 stage design over the single stage blowers. Just my 2 cents...


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