# Old Ariens st824 model: 924050



## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Hi everyone. 

I just bought an old ariens 924050 for 40$ yesterday. Beside a small carb cleanup, everything looks great(pretty good condition). The only thing is that it doesn't have any carb cover and i can't find the exact part number or any similar cover that could fit. Do you guys have any suggestions? maybe a makeshift cover? Would a 36547 cover work? Let me hear what you think :wink2:.

Julien


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Welcome to the forum!

You are in luck... That machine has a standard Tecumseh engine according to this link
https://www.partstree.com/parts/ari...24-snow-blower-8hp-tecumseh-sn-036501-050500/

So you will have LOTS of compatible carb boxes from any machine that uses that engine or even a 10HP Tecumseh (I think)
I'll get back shortly with some options for you

EDIT: can you do me a favor and find the model number and serial number for that engine.
It will be etched on the top of the pull-rope cover between the gas tank and the carb.
If you have an electric starter the etching will be tucked close to (or maybe even under) the electric starter button.
You can whip that button off with just 2 screws.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

The serial number has been painted over! I strongly believe though that it is a hmks80. Iv'e seen many optiong but most of them are close to 100$ US


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

OK

These are all different links to the 8HP engines https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/tecumseh/4-cycle-horizontal/hm-80

Narrowing it down to just a single one at random we get this https://www.partstree.com/parts/tec...-cycle-horizontal-engine/engine-parts-list-1/

Looks like its #335 on that parts list
That makes it part number 36547A or an older 36547

So if we google that or look on ebay we find this GENUINE Tecumseh 36547A Cover Carburetor Replaces 36547 | eBay

But you should be able to get a used one cheaper like these https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=36547a&_sop=15

Cheapest one seems to be this Tecumseh, MTD 8 HP HMSK80 Carburetor Cover 35057A, 36547A | eBay

EDIT: that one seems to have the wire missing for the plastic pull key if you care about that kill switch.
Another one may have the wire still connected.

So maybe this one instead http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-Carburetor-Cover-Snowblower-HMSK80-HMSK90-8-10HP-MTD-36547A-35057A/282671993070?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41451%26meid%3D887ab85306be46fb8ccbe4949e3ff072%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121816023690&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1


Just keep searching ebay for 36547A or 36547

But you could also look for any used machine on craigslist with an 8HP or 10HP engine and maybe get the whole machine for not much more so you'd have LOTS of parts
Especially if (say) the engine is broken or the augers are broken.... still good enough as a donor parts machine.
Try craigslist and see what you can see

I bought a carb cover box for $16 not long ago


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

JackMels probably has just the right one for you....

Sens him a PM


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

there's somebody selling an 8 hp tecumseh engine for parts in my area for 10$, i'll try to get in touch with him. I think the whole is the best idea. Especially since i am in canada, shipping is very expensive! Thanks for clearig everything up !


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> there's somebody selling an 8 hp tecumseh engine for parts in my area for 10$, i'll try to get in touch with him. I think the whole is the best idea. Especially since i am in canada, shipping is very expensive! Thanks for clearig everything up !


Perfect... $10 gets you the carb box and a spare carburetor and pull rope and ignition coil and flywheel and etc etc etc. Yay!
Well that was easy huh? ;-)

Or even better... buy the engine.. take off the carb box... then post it back on craigslist for $11 ;-)


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

yeah lol! at the end of this project i will have spent less then 100$ on a undestroyable snowblower.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> yeah lol! at the end of this project i will have spent less then 100$ on a undestroyable snowblower.


That'll be awesome! 
So now you owe us lots of pictures of your new pride and joy so we can wish we had your luck. 
Enjoy the DonyBoy videos.. he's really thorough and knows his stuff.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I have one, but not shipping to Canada, sorry. There are Different Air Boxes. Some have a Slot for a Throttle Cable, Some Do Not. As far as "Undestroyable", the Bronze Auger Gear is the Achilles Heel on that Model. Other than That, they are Very Good Snowblowers. Check to see if there is any play in the Impeller. That Bearing makes Quite a Difference in Performance. Best of Luck with it, and Keep us Posted.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Alright! thanks for the info!. I took the carburetor appart and i need to replace the Bowl o-ring, float and inlet needle valve . Would you suggest a rebuild kit or a completly new carb ( they sell some on amazon for 20$ with good reviews)? Right now my engine runs but i can't seem to ajust it to run richer and it dies after a minute or so ( i suspect it might be due to clogged jets). Here are some pictures,


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Get the New Carb. They Work Great.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

I hope the engine will run fine afterwise


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

I'm not seeing your pictures.

If you bought that spare engine we were talking about... you'll have two carbs to play with.
You might be able to get by without even buying a carb kit just by picking the best bits from each.
I've had a lot of success cleaning carbs and reusing the existing parts or borrowing a part from a spare.

If it runs for a minute or two then stops it may be because it uses up the fuel in the carb bowl but then there's no more fuel reaching the carb or it's not coming fast enough because the float and needle and seat are not working as they should... or the fuel filter is bunged up... or the fuel lines have a blockage... or the vents on the gas cap are blocked (just take it off or loosen it). 
Eliminate them one by one.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

I got in touch with the guy who sells those engines, i'll have two spare engines for 60$ . One needs a carburator cleanup which i'll be able to take care of and the other one has some striped sparkplug hole threads. I'll see what i can do with those two.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Ok great! i decided to swap the engines since the one i got works great ( 1 pull start, electric starter, new gas lines). But while swapping the engines, i ran into two problems. First, the old bolts which held the old engine are rotted away and two of them snapped, should i cut them, drill the holes and replace them with bolts from the hardware store? Then, i tried putting the old belts on the new engine but the one which drives the auger seems too tight and the augers are always engaged, is it because i need a longer belt? Thank you for your answers, the new engine seems to be the same as the old one ( tecumseh hm80 ).

EDIT: I just noticed that the old pulley is smaller, i will try to put it on the new engine


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> Ok great! i decided to swap the engines since the one i got works great ( 1 pull start, electric starter, new gas lines). But while swapping the engines, i ran into two problems. First, the old bolts which held the old engine are rotted away and two of them snapped, should i cut them, drill the holes and replace them with bolts from the hardware store? Then, i tried putting the old belts on the new engine but the one which drives the auger seems too tight and the augers are always engaged, is it because i need a longer belt? Thank you for your answers, the new engine seems to be the same as the old one ( tecumseh hm80 ).
> 
> EDIT: I just noticed that the old pulley is smaller, i will try to put it on the new engine


Wow I'm impressed.... you are supposed to be a newbie! Good for you!

Bolts: 
Do those bolts screw into the mounting plate or do they just go through a hole and have a nut on the other side:
If it's the former... you don't really want to just drill them out because that will destroy the thread on the mounting plate. Better to use a bolt-extractor.
On the other hand you could just drill them out but then you'd need to use a bolt and nut afterwards... that can be tricky if access to top and bottom is not easy.. you might not be able to get in there to hold the nut. Make sure before you drill.
If they do NOT screw into the mounting plate then.. sure.... drill them out and get a new pair of bolts with nuts and washers etc. But they should have just dropped out if that's the case.

Belt: 
It sounds like you've got a solution. I hope you have a pulley-puller to help get the pulleys off and that things are not too rusted.

Let us know how you get on.

EDIT: I wonder why that guy was selling that engine.... makes me think it may be underpowered or have an issue you are not seeing.
If you don't mind finding that out later.. go for it. But if the original engine was thought to be good... you could just get that running instead.

EDIT: If those pulleys are not all the same size then at least one of them is the wrong pulley. That will change the "gearing ratio" and therefore speed things up or slow them down depending on which one you are talking about. Better to find out which is the correct pulley and stay with that one and get a different belt if need be. If I'm reading what you are saying correctly your original engine has the right pulley and the right belt.... I'd still suggest getting that one running if that's true... switching a fuel line is no big deal for a guy like you. ;-)

EDIT: Too late and easy for me to say after the fact but.... it's always worth squirting PB Blaster before removing rusty-looking bolts to avoid that snapping problem.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

I think he was selling the engine because he installed a 10hp engine on his snowblower and for the bolts, the original ones are just tack welded on the snowblower frame. I saw someone online who just struck them with a punch and took new 5/16 inch bolts and nuts


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

By the way I'm still not seeing any images so I'm shooting blind here.
Can you try adding them as attachments or a google photos album or something?
If that becomes too painful PM me and I'll send my email and you can just email them to me and I'll get them on there for you... but I hate to have to do that.
Lots of people struggle with photos and it just gets in the way. :-(


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

You should be able to see the pictures now. Is it possible that the auger is meant to be always running? There a sticker recommending to always clear it before starting the engine

This is on the new engine








This is on the old engine, notice how, thos two pulleys are together compared to the other engine which has separate pulleys.









Here is a link to a video
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cJdyIr6Vm4r1z02H3

Edit: i wonder how the auger belt is supposed to sit, is it meant to be free on the shaft or does it needs to spin

EDIT: I wonder how longer i would need my belt to be


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Your first 3 images are working
The latest are not
I see from the HTML that you are using googleusercontent (whatever that is) are you sure you made those things "public" and that you are using a "shared link" and not a "private link" that only you can see (insert your preferred jargon for those terms) ? Just guessing.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

I think it takes a bit for the links to update to shared files


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> I think it takes a bit for the links to update to shared files


ok they are visible now...reading and thinking... hey.. it came with a matching toolbox!


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

stuart80112 said:


> ok they are visible now...reading and thinking... hey.. it came with a matching toolbox!


Hilarious... Colorado is 420 friendly but I'm not stoned! I think you posted the SAME photo twice. ;-)


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

it's fixed!


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> You should be able to see the pictures now. Is it possible that the auger is meant to be always running? There a sticker recommending to always clear it before starting the engine
> This is on the new engine
> <snip>
> This is on the old engine, notice how, thos two pulleys are together compared to the other engine which has separate pulleys.
> ...


No the augers should not be permanently engaged.. just think how potentially dangerous that might be.
Some really really old machines were a a bit that way and if the operator had a stroke the machine would march down the street eating everything in sight.. but not this one. ;-)
So have you checked some DonyBoy videos explaining how auger belts work and the purpose of the idler pulleys etc.? You'll enjoy them.
Basically the belt is either too short or the idler pulley needs to be adjusted to back off away from the belt when the lever is released.
For any generic machine that means one of two things depending on design
a) The cable needs to be adjusted to slacken off the pulley
b) the pulley may be bolted to a slotted hole and you can loosen it and slide back and forwards on that slot.

At one point, you had a machine with a pulley and a belt and they were OK
Do you have the same pulley-belt combo on the new engine?
If not.. that could be causing the issue especially if this pulley is larger diameter than the one from the matching belt-pulley-combo
I hope that sentence made sense. Put another way.. this pulley is probably the BIG one but you need the LITTLE one.

I am not suggesting that you get a different belt... I'm suggesting that you use the pulley from the "belt-pulley-combo" 

I am going to give you a link to a belt size calculator just for grins.. you seem like the person who would be interested..but I'm not saying you should get a new belt.
There are others.. just google for "V belt length calculator"
V-Belt Length Calculator


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Thank you very much for your help, i really don't want to buy another belt, i think i already spent enough money on that machine. I'll check everything out tomorrow, i need some rest now 😴


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> it's fixed!


we were typing at the same time. do you mean the photo is fixed (yes it is) or do you mean the blower is fixed (in which case you are a rock star!)


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> Thank you very much for your help, i really don't want to buy another belt, i think i already spent enough money on that machine. I'll check everything out tomorrow, i need some rest now 😴


I agree re-read #26... don't buy another belt
Enjoy the rest of the evening 
BTW it snowed last night here in Denver


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

I just looked at the videos you recommended to me and i just checked how tight the belt was, when my lever isn't pressed down, i can make it slip by hand, it is very close to being the right size, if i can extract those pulleys i'll switch them. But i'm pretty sure that under a load , the auger would stop turning


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> I just looked at the videos you recommended to me and i just checked how tight the belt was, when my lever isn't pressed down, i can make it slip by hand, it is very close to being the right size, if i can extract those pulleys i'll switch them. But i'm pretty sure that under a load , the auger would stop turning


Ideally you want to figure out from the parts diagrams and specs which looks like the right pulley and which isn't.
I'm getting lost with all the different engines and pulleys you are using.
If one is a combined pulley and the others are separate pulleys the parts diagram should easily tell you which is the official pulley.. use that one.
My assumption is that the designers used those pulley diameters for a reason so stick with their design.

You should have no problem if you have a pulley-puller... without it you may struggle.
https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-pc-69105.html

Do you know how to look up parts diagrams? If not... look at this post I made yesterday..

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1293113-post4.html


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

I changed the pulleys but the auger still runs continually, the belt is far from being too tight.at least we completed the engine switch and it works.

EDIT: here are some pictures














































Edit: IF you don't see them, go directly on the album https://photos.app.goo.gl/4xYSSCbhxUynF8dy2


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> I changed the pulleys but the auger still runs continually, the belt is far from being too tight.at least we completed the engine switch and it works.


Photos are fine.. I usually just point to the album or make a sub-album and point to that... didn't know you could embed google photos this way so I learned something too.. thanks!
Seems like a lot of effort to grab all those links so I probably won't bother to inline mine.. but good to know you can do that.

Well.. back to the auger... as you know... the belt needs to be tight when you pull the handle and then that idler pulley needs to back totally away when you let go of the lever.
There should be a spring that makes the pulley want to back off when you release the handle. Is that all working? Is the handle quite difficult to squeeze? It should be because that spring wants to fight your squeeze. 
As you've probably noticed, your idler pulley is on a slot and it's already as far back as it can go so you can't adjust that.
Does your cable from the handle to that idler pulley have an adjuster on it? If so.. see if you can reduce the tension on that cable.
Those springs should also activate a brake on the auger. Does that move up and squeeze against the big auger pulley like a brake pad when you release the handle? It should.
You also need to make sure that you've threaded the belt inside that brake.

In summary.. check the spring and check the cable and check the brake .... then let me know.

EDIT: You didn't explicitly state if you now have the official pulley on the shaft.... do you?

EDIT: I'm not sure how you can do this unless there's two people or a tripod... but if those suggestions don't work I'd like to see a video of the idler pulley as you squeeze and release the handle if that's possible. Maybe with and without the engine running.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

So, 

First, i had to put back the pulley that was already on that new engine since the other one wasn't properly aligned and was not fitting under the belt cover.

Secondly, i checked that brake and it does not contact the auger wheel when i release the handle, i think this is my problem because when the engine is running and i pull back on the tensioner pulley, the strap still spins even tough it's very slack. So i will need to figure out why the brake does not make contact. 

Thirdly, when i press the handle it's fine, the belt is not too tight, the handle isn't hard to press.

Thanks, Julien

Note: if it's unclear, it's probably because english is my second language. Just tell me i'll reformulate

EDIT: here is a video of the finished product (i gotta tell you, i like the orange engine, it fits the snowblower )


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> So,
> 
> First, i had to put back the pulley that was already on that new engine since the other one wasn't properly aligned and was not fitting under the belt cover.
> 
> ...


Your English is better than many on the forum! I always find that. If you learn a language as a second language you learn good grammar instead of slang and local expressions. 
It's amazing how many people say "could of" when they mean "could have" for example.

EDIT: Update your profile so we can see you are from Quebec.. that way we can guess your snow conditions etc. (sorry I missed the acute accent there.. I can't figure out the key-bindings) ;-)

That brake is probably the answer. Does it have its spring connected? Is the spring strong enough? Is it anchored in the right place to give enough tension? Can anything be adjusted in that area? Is there a tiny "Brake pad" that has worn so low that it cannot reach the pulley?

So long as the belt becomes very loose and the augers are just crawling at a tiny random speed it's probably the auger brake.
It's not there just to stop the auger.. it's there to prevent this kind of auger-creep due to random friction effects of the floppy loose belt.

Make sense?

EDIT: I should have said "providing that" not "so long as" ;-)


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

One thing that bugs me is the fact that if the pulley on the engine spins freely, won't it cause friction and burn through the belt?


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I have to say I am pretty sure it is the brake that need a little work or adjustment, I have a snapper snow blower that the brake wore down and needs replacement and it does the same thing, I keep it for a backup snow blower so I'm not too worried if it's free spinning but will fix that at some time.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> One thing that bugs me is the fact that if the pulley on the engine spins freely, won't it cause friction and burn through the belt?


I understand what you are saying but that's just the way they are.
If the belt goes totally loose and floppy it will do minimal wear.
In any case... if you are using a snowblower with the engine running then you are probably using the augers most of the time anyway.
If you were to leave the motor running 24 hours per day 7 days per week.. you'd need a more sophisticated design.... but this is "good enough" for snowblowers.
Keep things as simple as they can be to get the job done. KISS (Keep it simple...stupid!) ;-)

Make sense?


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I not seeing any belt guides. Typically 1/4ish inch round steel rods bolted to the block. They will pinch and lift the belt off the pulley when disengaged.
Edit: added quick example photo.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

dbert said:


> I not seeing any belt guides. Typically 1/4ish inch round steel rods bolted to the block. They will pinch and lift the belt off the pulley when disengaged.
> Edit: added quick example photo.


Good catch!! I just thought Julien was still in the process of switching engines and pulleys and hadn't finished putting everything back.

The other thing they'll do Julien (which is probably most important) is to stop the belts falling off the pulley when the handles are released and the belt goes loose.
That would be annoying wouldn't it?

As a tip for the future.. you usually don't need to remove them if ever you need to change a belt, just loosen them and swing them out of the way.
It certainly doesn't hurt to remove them if it gives you more room... just need to remember to put them back.

They need to be close to the belts (to keep them in a well-behaved position) but not actually touching like in the picture from dbert. It's not an exact science.

Keep watching those DonyBoy videos!! (and the small number of French ones too) I wonder if he's from Quebec? He may be a neighbor. That would be awesome if he was.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

First, yes i removed them to have more room but also because the belts were rubbing against them. I need to figure out how to put them back.( pretty difficult)

Secondly, Donyboy is probably from Ontario or somewhere like that , he has a pretty strong engliysh accent.🇨🇦


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> First, yes i removed them to have more room but also because the belts were rubbing against them. I need to figure out how to put them back.( pretty difficult)


Difficult? They should just screw in. 
If you mean you can't remember where they go relative to the belts (especially that back drive belt) here's a photo of a twin-shaft engine to remind you. 
Different machine but may be similar positions.
I forgot too! It was my first-ever machine.
These days I always take loads of photos before dismantling anything.. just in case I forget.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1264802-post35.html


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Yes it was tricky since the screw into a nut on the other side which youy need to hold but guess what? that was my problem, those two bolts apply pressure on the belt so that it doesn't have a friction point on the pulley. ( so the belt makes a circle around the pulley). So now, the auger doesn't spin, the only thing is that it takes time to stop without the brake but i won't bother fixing it. Now i need to fit the belt cover which is now to small for those bolts ( i can't use shorter ones). To do that i think i will drill a hole where those bolts are so that they can stick out of the belt cover.

By the way, i still had to change the old gas inside that engine. Good thing i did!










And here is a video of the belt spinning

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QgSU2a7BuZiGybEs2


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> ....By the way, i still had to change the old gas inside that engine. Good thing i did!...


Sounds like you are on the home stretch and it's downhill from here.
I don't see a problem with that gas.... it's a nice color.... matches the orange machine and the orange toolbox. Probably smells nice too! ;-)
Awesome result... that's not your typical newbie thread... enjoy the machine... it looks strong and sturdy. 
Lots of spare parts and engines to play with too.
All the best


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Yes thank you it's done! I'll definitely stay on the forum! Next summer i will probably give it a paint job!


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Julien Morrissette said:


> Yes thank you it's done! I'll definitely stay on the forum! Next summer i will probably give it a paint job!


Yes please stay around.. I'm hoping you'll chime in and help others too.

There's still something not quite right with the embedded inline google images at my end... sometimes I see them.. sometimes I don't... even if I hit refresh.
You may do better to stay with a link to an album instead.. it seems more reliable and works for me 100% of the time. It's an extra click for the user but it works.
FYI a single image can live in multiple albums on google photos. 
I put all my images in one giant album for the machine and then create question-specific albums reusing the pictures when I want to focus attention on just one or two pictures.
$0.02


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

I recently noticed that the skid plates were very worn out, instead of buying new ones i welded some steel flat bar under them, then gave it some nice new paint. Notice my great welding skills, LOL. ( it is actually quite good for a small mastercraft welder)


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Update: Today was our first snowfall this year. The snowblower worked great until it was under a load ( bogging down) so i pulled the carb bowl down and sprayed the inside with carb cleaner. Worked great afterward, i also greased the governor cable and connections.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Gotta just love when your project finally gets used and works well, Just got a similar one myself, a ST8524. Took it home in boxes LOL But complete. Ordered the needed parts and figured I would paint since it was already apart.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Yes ! i am probably going to paint mine too next summer, change a bearing and maybe the friction wheel since it's slipping a bit even though i cleaned it with rubbing alcool


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

This one looked like the gearbox leaked all the oil out and stripped the gear, Lots of little brass chips but no oil or grease residue at all??? It was apart but why would there be no oil residue but brass chips in there LOL AND Ariens dealer doesn't sell the gear just a new style gearbox for $200 + so I got it for $50 and the engine runs great. OH and I have a new gear, I just didn't go through Ariens LOL.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

yeah those parts are expensive, in Canda it's about double the price...

Right now i'm puzzeled by something though, my first 2 gears work but when i shift it in third fourth and fifth gear, the transmission slips. Does anybody know what's causing this? I adjusted the lever by thightening a bolt but it doesn't help. It's just harder to shift ( like the friction disk is always in contact with the wheel) . I also cleaned the assembly using isopropyl alcool


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

The disc rides up and down as you tighten the lever....and gets gummed up and doesn't move. Loosen the adjustment you made in the cable so the disc is not in contact with the rubber wheel.......with the transmission pan off and the machine in the service position, put a crowbar under the aluminum wheel and work it carefully up and down...use PB Blaster or some other rust buster until. it moves freely. Then give a squirt of lithium grease and adjust the lever to give it the right tightness.


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Oh well oh well... i'm stupid

Remember i had belt problems when switching the engine? Guess what? the pulley on this engine is smaller so the belt is slipping. I will need to switch those pulleys again!


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

That would explain it!.......at least its an easy fix!


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

yes! it now works flawlessly !


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## Julien Morrissette (Oct 7, 2017)

Now i need some more help! It works fine and i even added rubber to the impellers. Now i am planning to change some bearings that seem to be a bit worn out. Though i look a t the parts list and i can't find it.

https://www.partstree.com/parts/ari...8hp-tecumseh-sn-036501-050500/drive-assembly/

What i am looking for is this bearing, on the part list it's where there is a hole without any parts linked to it.


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