# Cold starting



## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

For some bizarre reason I was reading the sales literature on some of the Briggs and Stratton Snow Blower Engines, noticed it stated "The Briggs & Stratton engines offer a primer bulb for quick starts and a large muffler for quiet running performance. Starts even down to -29°C."
Wondering if anyone else has noticed this?
In the past year I have seen 5 blown up engines, and as many store their snow blowers in unheated workshops and such, I am wondering if this is contributing to the problem. My thinking, extreme cold, thick oil not circulating quickly enough, and?
btw, all of the engines I checked had the correct level of oil.
Or am I just "over thinking"?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

That is the reason that it is imperative to have the 5W30 *Full Synthetic* in all equipment.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

The flow properties of synthetic oil in the cold is why many on here use and recommend synthetic.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

I agree fully with synthetic.

Beyond that, I've come to believe it's important to let my snow blower engine warm up before I push it. I like to wait a few minutes and make sure the oil's nice and warm before increasing the throttle or engaging the augers.


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## LouC (Dec 5, 2016)

Agreed I have been using full syn 5w/30 in all my 4 stroke power equipment. But my favorite for quick cold starts is a 2 stroke with electric start like my Toro/Zuki 5hp. No oil in the crankcase, no resistance to cranking, starts instantly with the electric start no matter how cold it is.


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## NY Yankee Pride (Nov 18, 2018)

Do you guys use the Briggs And Stratton synthetic oil on you machines or do you just use any oil brand like Valvoline, Quaker State, Mobil, etc?


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

Tony P. said:


> I agree fully with synthetic.
> 
> *Beyond that, I've come to believe it's important to let my snow blower engine warm up before I push it. * I like to wait a few minutes and make sure the oil's nice and warm before increasing the throttle or engaging the augers.


Bolding is mine. I do that with every engine, and got in the habit of it way back when, when I owned an airplane. Learning that an engine overhaul would cost well into five figures (in today's dollars) was a strong incentive to learn as much as I could about the care and feeding of engines. I do this with lawn mowers, chainsaws, cars, anything with an engine.

1. Let it warm up, and cool down, gently and not under any significant load.

2. No sudden throttle changes in either direction. (Well, if you have to it's better than crashing, but don't make a habit of it.) Those engines that don't have throttles on them really grate on me for this reason. The best you can do with those is just let it run with no load for a few minutes.

3. Keep the oil clean. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. Do the math, it's grade school arithmetic.

4. If it has them, same with any and all filters.

5. Keep it clean. Dirt and grime can and will hide a multitude of impending problems that will manifest themselves at the most inopportune time.


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## broo (Dec 23, 2017)

I never really had a problem starting my machine, even in very cold conditions. Synthetic oil may help. My engine is a Tecumseh and it gets leftover new Mobil1 High Mileage 5W30 from my car's oil jug.

I wonder if the new trend of starting at full throttle (some machines don't even offer a throttle lever anymore) will prematurely wear out some small engines, especially in the cold.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

I worked on Diesel Generators and fire pumps for 35 years. 
Gens run 1800 (60 hz for a 4 pole generator which is the most common in other than home/contractors site types)
The fire pumps were set at 2100 as the droop type governor took them down to 2000 or so at their maxim flow rating.
They were heated, oil pad heaters on those that saw cold floor temps. Standard diesel engine oil. Never had any issues with them. Pretty amazing. 

That said, I let my snowblower warm up a few minutes, I use synthetic lube both for ease of turn and its flow at low temps so it splash lubricates as are all my vehicles. 

The Yamaha needs choke but half choke is also 1500 or better throttle. If its real cold I go back and forth between full choke and half choke until its stable and I can drop the choke out. 



I don't know why B&S needs a primer. Those have been around for a long time though. The Yamaha does not have one. 


21+ years and its still going just fine. 

I don't deliberately abuse any equipment but its amazing what it will take.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i don't see why starting a machine full throttle would hurt it. the choke usually keeps it from revving very high. the engine will even start pretty good with or without primer if you start it full throttle full choke. warm it up with choke on and should be good. i have also been meaning to toss some motorkote in my blower in the blower just to be safe but haven't done a oil change on it yet.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

NY Yankee Pride said:


> Do you guys use the Briggs And Stratton synthetic oil on you machines or do you just use any oil brand like Valvoline, Quaker State, Mobil, etc?


My preference is Quaker State Ultimate Durability. But you'll find all full synthetics are about the same so stick with the name brands and get the best deal. Right now that's probably Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic at Tractor Supply for $18. Shell has a $10 rebate on Rotella so that comes to only $10 or $2 a quart.

Stick with full synthetic only, not blends.

Most snow blowers don't have filters to remove contaminants so continue to follow the manufacturers oil change interval, probably annually.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

For the amount a snow blower takes, I can't begin to fathom cost being a factor. The truck gets Mobile 1 because I can always find it. Passat gets the VW specified synthetic as it has a high pressure cam on the unit injector and needs a EP type syn. Others may work but at the cost of the oil I am going with their spec. That is rare in a car, normally any mfg syn is good. 

As noted, I just use the Mobile 4T I have for the Ural and had for previous air cooled cycles. I change the cycles on miles and the blower every 5 years.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

RC20, we've discussed this before and know we have different perspectives on power equipment oil change frequency; 5 years for you and annually for me. 

And that's OK.

Cost is as good a basis for purchase as any. I believe QS Ultimate Durability to be the best but recognize that all the major options are similar with only cost being the differentiator. You probably prefer Mobil 1 because you believe it to be superior or assume the premium you pay is worth it. Something else we can disagree on.

And that's OK, too.


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## amuller (Jan 3, 2016)

I use a 0W20 or 30. No problems starting with a pull or two, in any temps we have in Minnesota. Cars are using oils as thin as 0W16 these days. I do suppose "synthetic" is a somewhat broad category and they aren't all the same. Do people think electric starting is important? To me it seems easier to tug on the starter rope than plug/unplug in the starter. But my right shoulder is starting to act up so I may change my mind.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

amuller said:


> Do people think electric starting is important? To me it seems easier to tug on the starter rope than plug/unplug in the starter. But my right shoulder is starting to act up so I may change my mind.


My snow blower has electric start but I never used it. I do think it's good to have, though, in case the pull cord breaks and there's a foot of snow on the ground. And I agree that using electric start is at least as much effort as pulling a cord once or twice.


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## hammer6315 (Dec 15, 2019)

Tony P. said:


> I agree fully with synthetic.
> 
> Beyond that, I've come to believe it's important to let my snow blower engine warm up before I push it. I like to wait a few minutes and make sure the oil's nice and warm before increasing the throttle or engaging the augers.


 One of my concerns with my 2 year old snow blower is that there is no throttle! When it starts, it immediately revs up to full operational speed. I don't like that at all. I shall continue to use 5w-30 full synthetic oil.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

hammer6315 said:


> One of my concerns with my 2 year old snow blower is that there is no throttle! When it starts, it immediately revs up to full operational speed. I don't like that at all. I shall continue to use 5w-30 full synthetic oil.


Hammer, of course I agree on synthetic. I'd still wait a few minutes before putting the machine in gear and engaging the auger / impeller.


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

Have 20 lts. of 5w30 left over from my vw days and its suppose to be the best oil out there @ $13 a litre so that is what all my small engines will get, put it in the 928 I just bought as there was no oil in the crate from Honda??? as there is suppose to be 2 bottles come with blower, and I live 75 miles from the dealer, will change @ 20 hrs. as to manual. Pull cord to start and let it idle for 5 minutes before moving so should be good.


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## DuffyJr (Oct 15, 2015)

hammer6315 said:


> One of my concerns with my 2 year old snow blower is that there is no throttle! When it starts, it immediately revs up to full operational speed. I don't like that at all. I shall continue to use 5w-30 full synthetic oil.


I truly don't believe that hurts the engine since they are splash lubricated, more RPM = more splash. Years ago an old guy that had a lawn mower shop told me to not let them idle for more than a few seconds because they are not getting enough lubrication.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

DuffyJr said:


> I truly don't believe that hurts the engine since they are splash lubricated, more RPM = more splash. Years ago an old guy that had a lawn mower shop told me to not let them idle for more than a few seconds because they are not getting enough lubrication.


Absolutely correct about 4-cycle engines using splash lubrication. Splashing is done by a dipper or paddle that moves at the same rate as the engine. The problem is that splash lubrication is imprecise so the idea is to wait to open the throttle until you're satisfied the engine is fully lubricated.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Tony P. said:


> Absolutely correct about 4-cycle engines using splash lubrication. Splashing is done by a dipper or paddle that moves at the same rate as the engine. The problem is that splash lubrication is imprecise so the idea is to wait to open the throttle until you're satisfied the engine is fully lubricated.


then leave the choke closed until your satisfied that the engine is lubricated and ready to go full throttle.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

crazzywolfie said:


> then leave the choke closed until your satisfied that the engine is lubricated and ready to go full throttle.


Yes, I agree with you - in theory. Assuming we're talking a cold situation, the mechanically correct way to go is to have a rich mixture while keeping the engine from revving too hard. The preferable way to do that is to keep the choke closed. I find, though, that small engines are finicky and it's easier to use the throttle. Just my preference.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Using an overly rich mixture to keep RPM down is washing oil off the cylinder walls as well as building up carbon and soot ... Throttle is a much better way to go.
Lack of throttle is why I passed on the Ariens classic while shopping

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Yeah, I am a fan of letting them warming up slow, and cooling down slow. Also I like the throttle. Also of course synthetic oil, been using it for 29 years.
Sid


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