# GX240 from HS828WA worth repairing?



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Hi everyone,
I have a GX240 engine that is on a HS828WA blower(purchased in that condition), I have not inspected it closely, but it seems to have a thrown rod by looking at the missing oil fill plug hole and the fact that the crank spins arround with no resistance when pull started. I was told by previous owner that while using the blower the oil fill plug broke-off or came-off, he did not realized about it and continued using it until the engine stopped from oil starvation. 
I was able to get a used replacement engine for $210, but I am wondering if it would be worth repairing it, or at least taking it apart to evaluate the damage. 
Note: I am an automotive technician but I have very little or no experience repairing or rebuilding small engines.
What is your advice?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Sounds like a good learning opportunity. Like anything automotive you need to find out what's broken before you can determine if it's worth repairing or even able to be repaired.

Take it apart and find out.


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Yep, turn a few bolts and see what it looks like inside.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

You could put a 301cc Predator in there and it would most likely fit like a glove. Plus the 301cc would be a bit if a bump I'm performance too. Usually when an engine through a rod they are scrap metal. What happened? Honda engines seldom throw rods.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

301 Predator would be nice 

I'd still tear the GX down for the experience and if it's fixable they are a great engine. You don't really need to replace the GX for a couple months so you have plenty of time to "tinker".


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i would go for the 420cc if repowering, that would also fit fine


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

GustoGuy,
The prior owner of the blower run the engine out of oil, that might be the reason.
Thank you every one for the sugestions. 
As of now I am not thinking of repowering options since I already have a GX240 spare good engine as well as a GX340 spare good engine (this engine is likely to go on my "HS1128TAS" project with a 14" impeller). I am just thinking about either bringing the damaged GX240 back to life, or just saving any good parts out of it.
Looks like I'll be turning some wrenches this weekend to see what I encounter and go from there. I'll report what I find.
Thank you all.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

hone it and put in some oversize rings and a new piston and conrod











use the oem honda rings, she probably will run again


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Blown GX240 on my bench now, I will report what i found.


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## ZOMGVTEK (Sep 25, 2014)

Is it really possible to not notice that much oil spewing out and motor right through it?

I'd definitely tear it down and take a peek. It's not terribly complicated stuff.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I got the engine apart and what I found is a broken rod and a damaged crankshaft.

Broken rod.








Broken rod.








Damaged crank.








Damaged crank.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Has anybody used 



 , $74 or $134 for an OE from Boats.com.
For the connecting rod shoud I use the priorly sugested kit, or get an OE rod?
I'll probably hold off on the repair untill fall, but I would like to hear any
sugestions on the repair aproach and any tips on engine reassembly.
Thank you.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)




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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

Crank looks fine, just lots of aluminum transfer from the rod. They always look like that when they throw a rod, I have yet to see one that actually got damaged though. That will clean up with emery cloth.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

94EG8,
What grit emery cloth would you suggest using for that pupose?, I will try to clean it up and inspect it.


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

320 or finer to finish if I remember correctly. I'll go out to the garage after and check.


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## Apple Guy (Sep 7, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> 320 or finer to finish if I remember correctly. I'll go out to the garage after and check.


 I would hit it with 400 to 600 grit wet sanding only.


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

Apple Guy said:


> I would hit it with 400 to 600 grit wet sanding only.


If never wetsanded one. I did finish them with a flexible diamond most of the time though. Wetsanding will give you a finer finish, but I never found it necessary.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I will try to clean it this weekend, I will post pictures of the results, thanks to all of you.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Another way I have heard of cleaning those is muriatic acid. It will melt the aluminum right off and leave you with the steel. You just have to wash it off in a sensible amount of time before it starts to eat the steel. I have never tried it myself, but there are plenty of stories online of it working great.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Shryp,
Thank you for the suggestion. I was researching on line as well, and found that using muriatic acid does work, but you have to be careful.
Another sugestion that I found is to use lye which I think I am going to try. You can also use oven cleaner like "easy off" the main ingedient of this cleaner is lye.
I will try using lye and will report the results.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

All the remains of the aluminum were removed using a strong lye solution, it took a couple of days to 'dissolve' the aluminum (I had to rinse and brush off the loose particles before placing it back on the lye solution) but it worked. I just have to polish it now.

Before









After (before polishing)


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