# Basic oil question



## fredct (Jan 9, 2017)

I know, through having read the forums, that’s there’s no lack of opinion on which is the ideal motor oil. But here I’d like to keep that aside (as much as possible) and just make sure I’m not breaking a definite rule from my manual.

My manual calls for either (“5W-30” or “synthetic 0W-30” (image attached). For convenience I picked up some at my local superstore. I’ve also looked at what my local supermarket has, What I’ve noticed in both places is that the only 5W-30 in those places is full synthetic, high mileage stuff. Everything else is 10W-30 or other things I can’t use.

Since my manual only lists “synthetic” against 0W-30, it’s not intending to exclude synthetic from 5W-30 right? It’s just saying the only acceptable 0W-30 is synthetic?

Bonus questions: since my blower takes 20 oz of oil, and everyone sells it in 32 oz quarts, if I put dome in in the spring, can I save the rest for next sprsing? (Meaning it would be in use for 1.5 years after the bottle was opened?) or does it expire sooner than that?
If it’s okay, I presume I better use the same exact brand the next year too to make the rest of the fill up right?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Use any synthetic oil you want, it's so thin in the winter between all the different weights it doesn't matter. Synthetic is not susceptible to thickening in the cold weather that dino oil is.

It doesn't go bad, save it, put it in your car.

Mixing brands doesn't matter for anything.

Shake it before you pour.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

fredct said:


> Since my manual only lists “synthetic” against 0W-30, it’s not intending to exclude synthetic from 5W-30 right? It’s just saying the only acceptable 0W-30 is synthetic?


Personally, I'd expect that fully-synthetic 5W-30 is OK, but I'm curious what others think. Maybe there's a consideration that I'm not thinking of, which would somehow make it such that 0W-30 synthetic is OK, but that 5W-30 synthetic would be bad. If synthetic 0W-30 is available, that would seem like a good choice. 



> Bonus questions: since my blower takes 20 oz of oil, and everyone sells it in 32 oz quarts, if I put dome in in the spring, can I save the rest for next sprsing? (Meaning it would be in use for 1.5 years after the bottle was opened?) or does it expire sooner than that?
> If it’s okay, I presume I better use the same exact brand the next year too to make the rest of the fill up right?


You're fine keeping the rest of the bottle on the shelf until the next oil change. But yes, my preference would be to use two bottles of the same stuff, vs having different types of oil in the engine at the same time. I'd pick something suitable, and buy a few bottles of that. 

Bonus opinion, not requested (  ): The high mileage Mobil 1 has more ZDDP (an additive) than regular Mobil 1. From what I've read, this extra ZDDP can help lubricate the valvetrains in these small engines. So I'm typically using Mobil 1 High Mileage in my stuff.


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

Synthetic 5W30 is just fine, use it. There is absolutely no advantage of running 0W30 synthetic over 5W30 Synthetic.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

GoBlowSnow said:


> Synthetic 5W30 is just fine, use it. There is absolutely no advantage of running 0W30 synthetic over 5W30 Synthetic.


Won't 0W30 flow easier and lubricate quicker than 5W30 during cold weather? It may not be a big difference when they are both synthetic, but I would guess that it will provide some advantage.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

RIT333 said:


> Won't 0W30 flow easier and lubricate quicker than 5W30 during cold weather? It may not be a big difference when they are both synthetic, but I would guess that it will provide some advantage.


Minimally. The reason auto manufacturers are now specking 5-30 instead of in the old days of 10-40, is mileage. Thinner oil results in slightly better mileage. Also, the tolerances of newer engines are tighter, and thinner works better with tighter tolerance engines. In the "old days" we used to run 20-50. 

On these engines, it really doesn't matter that much. It's splashed lubricated, there's no oil pump.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Snowblower and lawnmower engines are a sump, they don't need a high tech oil that a car engine needs with it's holes and passageways. If it's oil, it's slippery, it will work.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Snowblower and lawnmower engines are a sump, they don't need a high tech oil that a car engine needs with it's holes and passageways. If it's oil, it's slippery, it will work.


Sump=Splash right? Just wondering if we're saying the same thing.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Nice fun fact jlawrence, ZDDP FTW.

I use synthetic blend 5w-30 with an added dash of zddp. It’s particularly good for any application with a non roller cam, and bumps lubricity across the board.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

RedOctobyr said:


> Personally, I'd expect that fully-synthetic 5W-30 is OK, but I'm curious what others think. Maybe there's a consideration that I'm not thinking of, which would somehow make it such that 0W-30 synthetic is OK, but that 5W-30 synthetic would be bad. If synthetic 0W-30 is available, that would seem like a good choice.
> 
> You're fine keeping the rest of the bottle on the shelf until the next oil change. But yes, my preference would be to use two bottles of the same stuff, vs having different types of oil in the engine at the same time. I'd pick something suitable, and buy a few bottles of that.
> 
> Bonus opinion, not requested (  ): The high mileage Mobil 1 has more ZDDP (an additive) than regular Mobil 1. From what I've read, this extra ZDDP can help lubricate the valvetrains in these small engines. So I'm typically using Mobil 1 High Mileage in my stuff.


ZDDP is a zinc additive needed for flat tappet camshafts like old cars and small engines use. it also helps lube the top end rings and valves better, quaker state also has a high mileage semi blend oil with zddp in it .forget the name right now but it's in a red bottle


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

jsup said:


> Sump=Splash right? Just wondering if we're saying the same thing.


your right,the con rod and mains are splash oiled by picking up oil in the sump while spinning.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

87 powershift said:


> your right,the con rod and mains are splash oiled by picking up oil in the sump while spinning.


There's usually a little dongle either affixed to, or swinging from the connecting rod that pulls the oil up, and it's basically a mist. Do I have that right?


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

When it comes to basic lubricating effectiveness in snow blowers, conventional oil is similar to synthetic. Beyond that, all the advantages go to synthetic oil. For me, there are two advantages to synthetic oil that stand out:

Because synthetic oil is produced in a chemical process impurities and contaminants can be avoided so synthetic oil is less likely to produce sludge and varnish.
Since synthetic oil lubricates at a broad range of temperatures and conditions I'm able buy in 5 quart containers and use the same oil during the winter in my snow blower and during the summer in my mower. With conventional oil, I'd use 5W-30 in winter and 10W-30 in summer.


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## LouC (Dec 5, 2016)

If you have a machine you need to use in winter and it does not have electric start or the electric start has failed and you have to use the pull starter, the syn 5w/30 will for sure be easier on your shoulder than using conventional oil. In fact I'd be tempted to use 0/30 syn on my generator since if we get an ice storm I REALLY want that to be able to start if the power goes out (no electric start). I use syn 5/30 in all my 4 stroke machines.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*I run only 10w30 syn or dino oil up here in the frozen tundra and NEVER EVER had any problems with it.*


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Right from the B&S website. As you can see, they even tell you that 5w-30 Synthetic is the best for the widest temperature range, easiest starting and lowest oil consumption. I would imagine they did some testing ....

Oil Recommendations | Briggs & Stratton


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

10953 said:


> ZDDP is a zinc additive needed for flat tappet camshafts like old cars and small engines use. it also helps lube the top end rings and valves better, quaker state also has a high mileage semi blend oil with zddp in it .forget the name right now but it's in a red bottle



Reviving an old thread somewhat- Question- I have been adding a bit of ZDDP in the Tecumseh flat head engines for years now since it was reccomended by a trusted auto repair tech as well as small engine repair friend. But- would the newer engines need this since they are a bit different of a design?


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

The added Zinc does help. Most small engines do require the extra Zinc and it is in oils made specifically for Small Engine Use.
Most Zinc is not in modern newer oils used for automobiles anymore due to 'EPA' reasons. They determined it as a pollutant, like everything else. There may be very little amounts of Zinc in the newer automotive oils, but not enough for small engines to operate safely on. Their needs are a lot different than a cars oils are.
Your 'Pressure Fed' engines can go without as much of it because the oil pump forces its lubricant through the system a lot more than a 'Splash Type' engine would to provide the oil 'Barrier' between the metal parts.
The Zinc helps with the 'Barrier' protection in 'Non Pressurized' lubrication systems. It gives or adds a 'Coating' barrier to metal parts to keep them separated from each other better than just plain oil does.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Just to chime in once more on this hydra of a subject, but yeah for our little flat tappet engines zinc is a lifesaver.

Diesel oil has lots of zinc. Highly recommended.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

For those not using diesel oil, any suggestions for zinc additives? I typically use Mobil 1 in my small engines, which will not be high on zinc.


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