# Any realistic parts value in this blower?



## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

dragged this home today because i need the nice wheels for another blower. it's only a 5.5 hp. does start right up, tractor and auger engage. wondering if its worth setting aside any parts for sale before returning it to the scrap pile?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I would check your local craigslist and see listings for this machine. I guess this may be the wrong time of year for any interest unless there are any rebuilding maniacs in your area. 

With all your posts , are you in the repair/ rebuild business? This machine would either be free in my area or maybe $100-200 if working. I turn these down all the time .......even if free.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if the electric start works you could sell it. if the engine runs good you might be able to get some money out of it or just sell it together with the electric start. might want to check to see if it is a dual shaft setup or not. i would guess it might be $50-100 in parts. that looks like one of the machines at the begging of when they started making junky machines. you can always try posting the machine for parts and see if there is anyone looking for any cheap parts before you scrap it but considering winter is pretty much over i doubt there will be much demand for parts.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

orangputeh said:


> I would check your local craigslist and see listings for this machine. I guess this may be the wrong time of year for any interest unless there are any rebuilding maniacs in your area.
> 
> With all your posts , are you in the repair/ rebuild business? This machine would either be free in my area or maybe $100-200 if working. I turn these down all the time .......even if free.


NOT in the repair/rebuilding business! and don't want a yard for of snowblowers! however, churning free parts can build up a kitty for a better thing.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

crazzywolfie said:


> if the electric start works you could sell it. if the engine runs good you might be able to get some money out of it or just sell it together with the electric start. might want to check to see if it is a dual shaft setup or not. i would guess it might be $50-100 in parts. that looks like one of the machines at the begging of when they started making junky machines. you can always try posting the machine for parts and see if there is anyone looking for any cheap parts before you scrap it but considering winter is pretty much over i doubt there will be much demand for parts.


as mentioned, i grabbed it first to get the wheels, which i believe will fit my 824 (haven't tested them yet). what is the fast selling parts? i'm thinking fuel tank, auger mechanism, handles, knobs, recoil, bottom pan, etc.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

The engine, the chute, the rims and tires, the augers and front gearbox, the skids and scraper if their not toast. The cables, the handle grips. The belt guard with its little storage compartment, the used belts if their in descent shape. Maybe the friction disk if thats not worn out.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Craigslist and or Facebook Marketplace. The engine should be easy, not sure on the rest of it.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Craigslist and or Facebook Marketplace. The engine should be easy, not sure on the rest of it.
> 
> 
> .


how much to ask for the engine? it turns over first pull of the recoil. however, for some reason, the electric start kind of seizes. engine sounds pretty good to the untrained ear. 

both rear wheels very stuck on. was able to free one, cleaned axle housing, and slid on the 824. soaking the other. prepared for a long fight. original craftsman snow tires. held air.

it had a couple of local service tags on it. called the shop, they said they last saw it 6 years ago, and the owner decided to scrap it (presume they bought another). don't know anything after that.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

finished breaking it down (maybe, if someone buys the engine, they might leave behind the frame, pulleys, etc.).

both wheels were "rusted" on. i got one off, but what really occurred is there must be a plastic sleeve in the wheel hub. that bonded to the the rusty shaft. the first one separated. the second would not. i cut the shaft to remove the wheel from the axle. tried to pound the shaft out the reverse way, no luck. might have to give up on that.

the augers spin, but there is a frozen shear pin. might have to drill it out.

getting rid of the bucket shell. the gear box seems good. impeller seems good. 

gonna have to liquidate these reasonably quickly, don't want a bunch of blower parts lying around.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

rwh963 said:


> gonna have to liquidate these reasonably quickly, don't want a bunch of blower parts lying around.


it really doesn't sound like parting out machines is for you if you don't want a bunch of parts lying around. selling used parts can be a very slow especially now that winter is over. i know i have seen some people trying to sell the same parts all winter and since their adds never seem to change i doubt they have been selling much. also you are best to sell stuff like the engine complete. start stripping it to the point you can't fire it up it will make it a lot harder to sell. there is no really quick or easy money in parting out snowblowers.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

crazzywolfie said:


> it really doesn't sound like parting out machines is for you if you don't want a bunch of parts lying around. selling used parts can be a very slow especially now that winter is over. i know i have seen some people trying to sell the same parts all winter and since their adds never seem to change i doubt they have been selling much. also you are best to sell stuff like the engine complete. start stripping it to the point you can't fire it up it will make it a lot harder to sell. there is no really quick or easy money in parting out snowblowers.


i have parted stuff before, and know that some stuff remains for sale for a long time. some may never sell. i'm not getting in the snowblower used parts business! you have to have a junkyard mentality to make that work. i'm just trying this opportunistically. plus, pulling apart a blower educates me as to how they are constructed.

i would rather sell engines complete, even though some pieces like fuel tanks sell pretty well. rather focus on the hot sellers (augers, gas tanks, impellers, shafts). it can always go back to the scrap pile!


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

one wheel has to go to the scrap pile because the plastic hub bushing is totally seized. not worth the effort. one of the shear pins was totally seized as well. had top drill it out (ended a little off course, someone can use that hole as a shear hole). i hate rusted together stuff! its a reminder to all to pull apart and lubricate certain items on your blowers.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I would try to harvest both of the X trac tires, and possibly use them on Your old 10000 series Ariens or Snowbird.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i could be wrong but i believe if the rims has the plastic sleeve take a heat gun or torch to the rim to melt the plastic and separate the rim from the axle. may want to remove the valve core just to be safe while doing this. worst case scenario you can do like Ziggy said and take the tire off the rim so you can at least use it on another machine. 

did you try to drill the shear pins out while on the machines? personally i usually taking the auger assembly out before trying to drill out old shear pins but if your trying to make money parting out the machine you loose it on the labor taking things apart.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

crazzywolfie said:


> i could be wrong but i believe if the rims has the plastic sleeve take a heat gun or torch to the rim to melt the plastic and separate the rim from the axle. may want to remove the valve core just to be safe while doing this. worst case scenario you can do like Ziggy said and take the tire off the rim so you can at least use it on another machine.
> 
> did you try to drill the shear pins out while on the machines? personally i usually taking the auger assembly out before trying to drill out old shear pins but if your trying to make money parting out the machine you loose it on the labor taking things apart.





crazzywolfie said:


> i could be wrong but i believe if the rims has the plastic sleeve take a heat gun or torch to the rim to melt the plastic and separate the rim from the axle. may want to remove the valve core just to be safe while doing this. worst case scenario you can do like Ziggy said and take the tire off the rim so you can at least use it on another machine.
> 
> did you try to drill the shear pins out while on the machines? personally i usually taking the auger assembly out before trying to drill out old shear pins but if your trying to make money parting out the machine you loose it on the labor taking things apart.


thx for the suggestion. yes, the plastic sleeve is acting like the old chinese finger tricks thing. too much friction. i will remove the stem insert and use a heat gun to try too soften the sleeve. 

yes, the auger/impeller was out. one shear was totally frozen in. i tried to drill, but was a little off, so ended up drilling an alternative bolt hole! got the auger off, and remove the broken stud. 

i don't mind spending some time educating myself on issues. todays lesson is remember to dismantle and lube things like shear pins and wheels. just because they are there, doesn't mean they are removeable.

i'll probably post the whole machine as a parts ad on here, though ebay is doable best for reaching the most eyes over time.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Ziggy65 said:


> I would try to harvest both of the X trac tires, and possibly use them on Your old 10000 series Ariens or Snowbird.


gonna try! they aren't specifically xtracs.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i usually try to get the augers off first before drilling the shear pin completely out. sometimes you have have to drill the thee shear pin flush with the top of the shaft to get the augers off and get better access to drill them out straight. also starting small and working your way up size wise sometimes works to break them free. i have sometimes drilled out part of the shear pin and just hammered out the rest but it depends on the shear pin and how bad it looks.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

success! thx to crazzy, the heat gun idea worked, probably took about 15 minutes of work in total. 🤜


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

it is just plastic after all. worst case senario is you just melt the plastic till it is completely gone and the axle just falls out. i do kind of like that system even tho i hate how loose the drive system usually feels on machines like that.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

crazzywolfie said:


> it is just plastic after all. worst case senario is you just melt the plastic till it is completely gone and the axle just falls out. i do kind of like that system even tho i hate how loose the drive system usually feels on machines like that.


you mean pinned vs. bolted rim?


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

here is some of the "gold" i've panned out of the craftsman:


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

rwh963 said:


> you mean pinned vs. bolted rim?


ya the rims that use pins and usually have the plastic insert. i like that you can melt the plastic to make rim removal easy if it isn't maintained but the slop in the pins/holes usually annoys me even tho i am not a huge fan of the axles with the 2 flat spot on them. the one with 2 flat spot generally rust to the axles when they are not maintained. i know i have a rim with 2 flat spots that i am going to have to cut off a machine this summer since i it is just too stuck even for a puller and i already got a new rim for it.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

thank god we saved the wheel. on ereplacementparts, that is a $130 item!


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

parts are always stupid expensive new. the funny part is those rims are still very common or easy to find rims compatible with the axle. rims off older mtd will work buy you also need the plastic spacer that goes between the rim and body and you would likely have to shorten the spacer to make it work. i know i was going to swap a set of those craftsman rims onto mtd but would have had to cut the spacers or drill new holes in the axle for the wheels so the rims would sit in a slightly different location.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

crazzywolfie said:


> parts are always stupid expensive new. the funny part is those rims are still very common or easy to find rims compatible with the axle. rims off older mtd will work buy you also need the plastic spacer that goes between the rim and body and you would likely have to shorten the spacer to make it work. i know i was going to swap a set of those craftsman rims onto mtd but would have had to cut the spacers or drill new holes in the axle for the wheels so the rims would sit in a slightly different location.


so far they seem to work with my dump find ariens 824. at least i can roll the tractor portion around now!


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## Darkwoods (Dec 25, 2020)

Yep. I bought a used chute control crank assembly for a Craftsman this winter on ebay. Also bought a lower chute and adapters. It was hard to find a used replacement chute control, and I had it shipped from the States to Canada. Some of these parts work across different models.


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