# Auger Lock



## mobiledynamics

*Auger Lock on ST300 - Yay or Nay*

ST324P

Auger won't lock when both handles are depressed.
I can't recall if it worked when I did the initial test when I assembled it..

Anyone one the answer to where to eyeball....I presume it's some interlocking rod between the 2 levers ?

Just walked back in. Brewing in some tea and dethawing for a bit.
Going to get some wrench time in a bit. Need to lower my skids as well and I'll have to check to see if the scraper bar is fixed or not. It's leaving too much snow on the flats.

The sales brochure and manual seems to suggest that there is a Auger Lock.
The hardware/parts list seems to suggest it's part of it.
The hardware on my unit seems to have everything on it (per the parts breakdown)
Just can't make heads or tails on what is amiss.


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## Hanky

With the engine off, press right lever down and while looking at it press drive and there is a rod with a latch or hook that holds Auger lever down. could be a pin was not installed correct at factory. Should be a simple fix as it is all under the dash right at waist level.


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## Hanky

Could be a simple adjustment issue my neighbour has his shed locked so I can not get a picture of how his is working. give me 15 minutes or so.


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## Hanky

Well from the way I see Husky has a better inter lock than my Toro. First picture is of left side the drive lever and cable hook up.

This is of the Auger lever depressed in lock position.

This is Auger lever not depressed.

Hope this helps you a bit. There is a bit of adjustment on left side on drive lever side.


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## mobiledynamics

Hank -


Super thanks for the super fast turnaround.
I've decided to play daddy time time with my 2 yr old. 
Do plan to give it another go tonight before just to catch as much as before the freeze-over.

Thx much


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## Hanky

Did you get it to work for you???


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## mobiledynamics

Nada.

I'm going to have to look at the parts breakdown to see IF it's included. Auger side hardware seems to suggest it. Either I'm missing it or the ST300 has omitted it ? 

I'll post pics later. Just came in from 3 hrs of blowing...grabbing some soup/ 'wich and back out to attack the EOD. Sun's out and that stuff is getting heavy.


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## mobiledynamics

1st Pic. Drive Side Lever
2nd Pic. Auger Lever
3rd Pic. Auger Lever held Down

As you can see, there is the interlock rod that runs betwenen the Drive Lever - Auger Lever. There also appears to be a ~catch~ bracket affixed onto the Auger Lever
I don't see any other hardware though the get's moved when I depress the Driver Lever that would latch onto the Auger catch bracket.

For all ya'll 300 series owners out there, if you have any insight, much appreciated.


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## Hanky

If I get a chance I will wipe on down to my dealer and see if he still a 300 left and see what it has for you.


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## Hanky

All of the 300 series machines have been sold, sorry can not help you.


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## Zavie

MD,
I looked at your IPL seems it's just like mine. On page 9 of the IPL there's a flat bar looking part they call an interlock spring. The part # is 532 41 62-88. That is the part that catches the interlock bracket. When the traction lever is pressed that spring raises up to meet and catch the interlock bracket. Do you have that part on your machine?


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## mobiledynamics

I'm a id1ot. The IPL I was looking at, had the interlocking rod, bracket, etc. I did not scroll down further. About 3 pages down, it had MORE parts for the interlock.

Mind taking a pic of how the interlocking spring *flat stock with the nut*, sits on the cam roller. I don't see how it sits/affixes, but I'm sure it will figure itself out once I have the part in hand.

Called Husky They are sending me missing parts.


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## Hanky

Great at least they are sending you parts, I think Husky has a great system there at least from what I have seen it should be more trouble free than my own machine.


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## mobiledynamics

Hanky -

Big Thanks ccasion14:ccasion14: for the Dealer Driveby .
Appreciate it regardless


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## Zavie

*Interlock picture*

Here you go. The left arrow points to the attaching screw. The right arrow points to where the front tip of the "interlock spring" is when installed.


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## mobiledynamics

Thx Zavie. I have at least a reference point now....
I was eyeballing the cam roller from the get go, and it boiled down to me not scrolling down the pages on the IPL list.

I did not look at my unit right now, but here's hoping it's a simple *fitment*, and not a full teardown to get to where I need to properly affix it.

Time is something I just don't have these days, with my little ones in the mix.


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## tinkerguy

Hello there. I bought Husky ST324p last September had my first snowstorm to try it out last week. One minute into plowing and the Auger Lock snapped and will not lock anymore. It was very frustrating to work the hydro on the deep snow while keeping both hands on the grips. I've spent quite some time trying to see how the interlock mechanism works - but it is not apparent if anything is broken or missing. Looking at the parts manual there is something called a torsion spring that does not seem to be anywhere to be found. It seems like I found the right forum and guess I'm not alone with this problem. It looks a very bad design for it to have it fail almost immediately. Also it does not seem to be an easy fix - can somebody show what the spring looks like when mounted? I will contact Husqvarna support to if they can send me the required part(s).


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## mobiledynamics

Looks like you're missing the interlocking spring just like me.

Without the parts in hand and guesstimating *maybe Zavie can shed some light*, but is the interlocking spring held on strictly by tension under the cam roller ?

Tinkerguy - Just curious. DID YOU actually have the Auger Lock working at some point ?
If so, then we all collectively might need to figure out maybe a ~fix~ :icon_whistling: as possibly the OEM design is not the up to snuff


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## Zavie

mobiledynamics said:


> Looks like you're missing the interlocking spring just like me.
> 
> Without the parts in hand and guesstimating *maybe Zavie can shed some light*, but is the interlocking spring held on strictly by tension under the cam roller ?


Yes, that and the screw on the back end of the interlock spring. You can just make out the head of the screw in my picture. If I enlarge the IPL there may be a post or something else coming from the metal dash plate. The interlock spring seems to have 2 holes in it close together, but just 1 screw shown. So there may be something in that plate to lock it in also. I just had my shroud apart to put in different springs for the chute rotator control on the dash. Here is another picture, wish I'd taken more of the dash. The spring is way off to the left. FWIW the shroud removal is quick and easy so at least you've got that going for you.


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## Hanky

mobiledynamics said:


> I'm a id1ot. The IPL I was looking at, had the interlocking rod, bracket, etc. I did not scroll down further. About 3 pages down, it had MORE parts for the interlock.
> 
> Mind taking a pic of how the interlocking spring *flat stock with the nut*, sits on the cam roller. I don't see how it sits/affixes, but I'm sure it will figure itself out once I have the part in hand.
> 
> Called Husky They are sending me missing parts.


Have you received your parts yet and how is it working for you????


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## mobiledynamics

Not yet. They're not known for quick turnaround-processing. A wild guesstimate would be another week or 2 before something arrives.


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## mobiledynamics

Cabin Fever Here....or just waiting for parts....

In looking at this, the interlock spring will sit under the cam roller, with a hole in the interlock spring that gets affixed to the chassis....

I'm sure it will all come to mind when I had the tidbits in my hand..

How does The Interlock Stop : PN 532 42 18-14 end up in this equation for those that actually have a working setup


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## mobiledynamics

Got me some parts.

Interlock stop ---top part I need to eyeball to see where she goes


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## Forcefed4door

Imop it's a very weak link right there. If you unlock it when letting go of the augur handle it is pretty rough. That is gonna be a major wear item for sure. Can see it rounding off sooner than later. Let us know if it's a mofo to replace it


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## Hanky

How did you make out with the rebuild of the Auger lever?


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## mobiledynamics

Not quite there yet Hanky.

Need to pick a day with enough time to break her down, scratch my head to piece it together, and enough time to put it back together instead of leaving it with bolts and bits apart


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## briguy

Just curious. Why haven't you taken this to a dealer to make it his problem? Turn around would probably been faster.


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## mobiledynamics

It's easier timewise for me to deal than to do the whole lug there/lug back....

It's not a dealer I would even be familiar with/have had experience with.

I'd rather deal with it at home and be more ~careful~ around the machine, etc..
As an example, a new tool was sent back to Milwaukee.....it's a $1500 tool Brand New.
It either had a bad switch or board. Anyhow, sent it to Milwaukee for repair.
Repair was done....but there were some scratches on it. Granted, tools are meant to get scratches, but I should be the 1st one putting scratches on my $1500 tool.....


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## Forcefed4door

Call husky have them send you parts breakdown/diagram


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## mobiledynamics

Husky doesn't work like that forcefed....

I'll extrapolate some more since maybe one day Hank might sell his red and switch to his new ~daily driver~.

IME, reaching anyone at Husky with real ~technical~ knowledge/talk is pretty lame.
Unless Ariens or Honda, in which to some level of degree, when you speak to someone in tech, you are speaking with someone sitting in a company owned building, etc. I know, as when I had a tech talk with someone over at Ariens, the rep did not have an answer - but put me on hold and walked over the machine as well as pulled a more knowledgable Ariens gurus aside who happened to be walking by his station.

I've never had to call Honda. 
[email protected] has been a INVALUABLE resource for some oddball Honda questions I have thrown at him and he has always come through !

Husky uses a outsourced call centerfor simple tech support question. Pretty much anyone who is on this board will probably know more already than calling Husky tech support, as these tech support reps basically pull the spec sheet out and find the answer for you. Anyone on this board to some degree is a enthusiast/hobbyist already..

When you deal with parts, they basically pull up a IPL and figure it out.
I have spoken to Husky 3 times and it turns out, their *toll free #* will route you to at least 2 different *call centers*, at least for North America. These call centers are actually parts companies on a ~national level~ that sell parts/distribute to wholesales/retail, etc I suppose. I Won't name names, but one Husky parts rep was adamant and stated (I work for Husqvara. Husqvarna makes Poulon Pro and Ariens as well). No trolling or flame needed..... The IPL are publicly published online and while it may show roughly the parts breakdown per area of the machine, it's not exactly spelled out how it all fits.


Getting parts is pretty straighforward from Husky. Call them up, give them serial #, etc, etc. 

I've yet to do the repair but here's genuinely hoping it is the correct part for my machine.

For example, the IPL lists 2 different part #'s than what I received. I called Husky up and asked did they send me the wrong parts inadvertently. I was advised the PN they sent me was correct and it superseded the part #'s in the IPL. It's possible I presume.

However, this is the stickler that has me not 100% confident on this matter.

When I received my unit, one of the handlebar bolts/nut was missing. Must have rattled loose as it was MIA....and the bottom of the skid is open.

Called Husky up, they sent replacements. The washer they sent was too small though even though the PN on the bag was correct. Called Husky again, they sent me another washer. That arrived and it was still too small. I ended up just picking up a set of SS washers and replaced all 4 bolts with the same washer.


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## Hanky

I guess you could be our go to GUY for Husky help. Don't worry I have had my share of issues with the Toro Gods. In the big picture build quality is not where it should be for the price one pays now a days. I could rant on about Highway trucks. 

mobiledynamics for Teck help for sure.


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## briguy

mobiledynamics said:


> It's easier timewise for me to deal than to do the whole lug there/lug back....
> 
> It's not a dealer I would even be familiar with/have had experience with.
> 
> I'd rather deal with it at home and be more ~careful~ around the machine, etc..
> As an example, a new tool was sent back to Milwaukee.....it's a $1500 tool Brand New.
> It either had a bad switch or board. Anyhow, sent it to Milwaukee for repair.
> Repair was done....but there were some scratches on it. Granted, tools are meant to get scratches, but I should be the 1st one putting scratches on my $1500 tool.....


Understood, but you have been dealing with this on and off for over a month already.


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## mobiledynamics

briguy said:


> Understood, but you have been dealing with this on and off for over a month already.



It feels like a month....well at least that's how I felt when blowing snow and having to stop to change chute direction/angle and having to release the auger, but more or less, it took parts about 2 1/2 weeks to fulfill them. 

Per the last post, I'm just hoping it's the correct part once I unbutton the top bezel to deal with it. While the IPL is a rough guide, the depicted pic of the interlock stop looks completely different than the part I have in my hand...

I'll most likely deal with it in the upcoming week or weeks, as I give it a post winter wash, wax, fuel drain, etc and kill all birds in one stone. Then move it to a lonely corner and throw a cover ontop to hibernate for 10 months

-----

Your POV may be different if you have a trusted dealer/OPE shop you may have worked with....

I don't. Hence I rather wrench at home


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## Zavie

MD,
Did Husky give you a part # for the "top" part in your picture? The bottom part looks fine. I'm thinking that's all you need to install and you will be good to go. If you look at the picture the bracket I have the green arrow on has an arm that contacts the spring when installed.


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## mobiledynamics

Hi Zavie -

That itty bitty sheet metal *interlock spring* is all that's needed under the cam roller to engage it ? 

The PN I have Husky for the 2nd part per the IPL is named Interlock Stop: PN 532 42 18-14. Husky sent me PN 532-42-12-52 advising that is the same PN, but it has superceded the original PN listed above.


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## Hanky

Just wondering if today is a Husky project day or a Honey do day. Any updates on the Auger lock issues.


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## mobiledynamics

Not yet Hank. With a newborn in the mix and another 2 1/2'er, free moments are a scarcity at best. And every free time I get, I'm building and making memories ;-0

Will get around to it. Probably waiting for not a overcast day, so I can roll them out (both Husk and Honda), wash them down, fog them up, lay them in the sun to dry and all that good stuff is probably when the teardown will happen. It's already got a oil change already....at 3.2 hrs on the meter. Probably no more snow for the rest of this season...


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## Zavie

mobiledynamics said:


> Hi Zavie -
> 
> That itty bitty sheet metal *interlock spring* is all that's needed under the cam roller to engage it ?
> 
> The PN I have Husky for the 2nd part per the IPL is named Interlock Stop: PN 532 42 18-14. Husky sent me PN 532-42-12-52 advising that is the same PN, but it has superceded the original PN listed above.


Hmmm, MD, I measured my interlock spring as close as I could and it's about 5 inches in length from the tip that is just under the cam roller to where it screws to the dash plate. Is that the length of your's in the picture? It looks like the bottom part but since you have nothing to reference the size it's hard for me to tell overall length of that part.


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## mobiledynamics

Close enough. It measures 4 3/4" on the measuring tape


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## mobiledynamics

Operation Auger Lock Repair calendared in rain or shine this Saturday.

Trying to put the winter snow chores behind me as spring to list is surely right around the corner.


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## mobiledynamics

Springtime Last Frost Freeze Bump.
Pics to be posted...

Finally got around to this.
Interlock spring was there.
The ~catch bracket~ where it engages against the interlock spring has sheared off. I touch it and it literally broke off. Not a good design, as the interlock spring literally is holding all the force against the ~tip~ of that metal bracket. Sure wish they incorporated a rod in this design


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## Hanky

The good thing is you should not get frost bite this time of the year.


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## Forcefed4door

Must have been a real sob repairing it right? That was one of the first things I noticed when I tested mine out. It's the weakest link on the machine without a doubt.


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## mobiledynamics

I have not ordered the part today but it looks like I'll need to remove a couple of things to get access - not the ideal thing I would prefer, but it is what it is.

I'm thinking I might just order it in late summer, hoping there are more complaints on this part and either a recall was/is issued, and or they use a better spec on it.

Literally that lock bracket has provisionings for a ~rod~ as a catch, but I think maybe it's more a Universal Part with Husky and they use it on a different machines.

In the ST application, the interlock spring literally is supposed to catch/engage on the tip of it, which amounts to 1/16" of a triangle edge of steel. Lotsa force for that area to be localized.


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## Zavie

MD, perhaps you could come up with a simple mod that would beef up that mechanism? Can't wait till you tear it down and post pics. Until then I'm going to be running the boring lawn mower, ugh.


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## mobiledynamics

I should have taken a close up but here goes.
If you look closely, you can see the crack. Literally, the entire force of the the Auger Lock is held it place by opposing metal. One of the Interlock Spring Zavie has posted. The latter is when the cam roller lets the spring *come up*, the metal goes against the edge of the Interlock *bracket*. Too much IMO for such a small isolated area

Sorry for the huge pic


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## mobiledynamics

Just for the Husq. wiki. 

I mentioned in another post that the parts/warranty/support is all done via outsourced call centers. Anyhow, I called 2X and both reps *female* were not helpful. You need to bring your machine into a dealer for warranty support, I just can't ship parts, etc.....


I dug around and found the contact for the call center rep and # of the Husq. parts dealer that took my other order previously. Lo and behold, he's located in Canada or the main headquarters. Anyhow, he put me on hold for 10 minutes, and came back to the line and told me he's shipping it and I should see it in 5-10 days. I ran the part # that I was planning to give to him, but he was ahead of me and confirmed that was the part he was shipping....

With that said, you will get ~real~ Ariens and Honda owned employees for the few times I've called. Not-so-much with Husq.....

Here's hoping the replacement bracket is stronger steel.


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## SAVAGE420

So how did this end up? 
I'll have a look at my 330 and see if its the same.


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## jayarr

Just another guy who had to have a dealer fix the same problem. Never worked from day one. Only used about eight times last season and other than the auger lock, was perfect.


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## mobiledynamics

Savage and others -

The repair took no more than 30 minutes.....
I did not go the dealer route - kinda like my cars. Don't want to bring it in if it can be avoided....

Anyhow, upon repair, the part under the cam roller that keeps the auger lock in place was not engaging, so I ended up removing that as well, put a bit of a bend in the metal....and all is well. Alot of tension though on that itty bitty tip ont he pic I posted and the metal. I can easily see how - depending on how one released the levers, etc - unsprung force can just break off the tip.

In my winter prep, I just put a small clamp on the handle (should I need it).
The most irritating part of last winters use was the ability to just *drive*, as I needed to keep one hand on the auger. Between the repair (which I don't think will last but we'll see), the clamp will just be it's permanent fix moving forward


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## jayarr

So my auger lock was fixed by the dealer, never worked last year.
I really liked the feature, but after about six hours use it broke again.
Too bad, otherwise a great machine. I just am resigned to stopping the machine if I have to adjust the chute.
Otherwise, for the first time two of the shear bolts did their job when I hit a big chunk of ice. Not the auger bolts, the imperller ones. The spec for them is 3/8 inch shorter that the standard 2" bolts sold by Lowes.
Sadly the dealer gets over 4 bucks each for the short model.
I think the long ones may work okay the next time they break.
Really bummed by the corporate greed that is okay with substandard specs for the auger lock.


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## beemer23

Hanky said:


> Well from the way I see Husky has a better inter lock than my Toro. First picture is of left side the drive lever and cable hook up.
> 
> This is of the Auger lever depressed in lock position.
> 
> This is Auger lever not depressed.
> 
> Hope this helps you a bit. There is a bit of adjustment on left side on drive lever side.


How do you get access to all this. I have a 2008 Toro 824 power max and I don't see any bolts holding the "dash" on. I know I need cataracts removed so my vision isn't all that good, but I should be able to see a few bolts.
Thanks to anyone who can help.


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## mobiledynamics

jay -

the OE just needs to get beefed it. I forgot all the details, but look at the engagement and the clearances.
The more metal needs to be tacked on (if I remember the final fix). Alot of tension/force on where I presume it failed again - which is the itty bitty tip that has about 1/8" of metal holding all that tension when engaged.


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