# Ariens ST824 drive problem



## Craig (Mar 3, 2015)

Hello,

I'm new to the forum so thanks for the advice in advance. I have an Ariens ST824 that won't move. I have replaced the friction disc, then found a broken spring that attaches to the idler pulley putting tension on it against the drive belt. I took the old spring and was able to bend a new hook on the end and reattached it. I figured this was it for sure. It still doesn't move. When you put it in gear (forward or back) it makes a quick little jerk but that's it. You can see the friction disc engage the disc in the front and that spins too but it won't drive the wheels. Any ideas? 

Thanks! 
Craig


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Craig said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm new to the forum so thanks for the advice in advance. I have an Ariens ST824 that won't move. I have replaced the friction disc, then found a broken spring that attaches to the idler pulley putting tension on it against the drive belt. I took the old spring and was able to bend a new hook on the end and reattached it. I figured this was it for sure. It still doesn't move. When you put it in gear (forward or back) it makes a quick little jerk but that's it. You can see the friction disc engage the disc in the front and that spins too but it won't drive the wheels. Any ideas?


Welcome to the forum,
First thing that comes to mind is, does your friction disk travel the hex shaft good with a light grease on the shaft? The way it works is the drive plate turns the friction disk then to the drive wheels via a chain sprocket so next is the chain still good? Try turning the wheels when in maintenance position and you should see your drive plate turning. Come back with your findings.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

ALOHA from the paradise city. here in the sub zero frozen TUNDRA.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Craig 

Have you tried tipping it up on the auger in the service position with the bottom pan off and tried spinning the wheels to see what moves and what doesn't ??
Sounds like something broke between the friction wheel and the tires. Maybe a bolt holding a gear to a shaft ??


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## Craig (Mar 3, 2015)

I have the unit tipped up , and the friction disc glides smoothly along the hexshaft when I switch the speeds. Everything seems to be rotating ok. It seems that when I depress the handle to operate the wheels the drive plate doesnt quite go as tightly against the friction disc as it should.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

There is a nut on the bracket that the rod connects to on the lower left back of the tractor. Tip it on the bucket or put something under the bottom to get the wheels off the ground. Shift it to neutral and then tighten that nut while turning the wheels by hand. When the wheels bind up on you loosen the nut 3 complete turns.


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## conwaylake (Feb 6, 2014)

*Drive Spindle or do I mean the spindle drive....*

Can you provide model # (eg 924050, BUT not all ST824 are 924050 ) AND serial number. 

I suspect the Drive Spindle. I just had the same problem in my ST824, and replacing the rubber wheel and adjusting the control-rod did not help. 
Drive spindle sits behind the tractor (engine) pulley. on the same axis as the aliumimum friction plate. NOT the rubber wheel, and not the ' other spindle' that moves the rubber wheel on the hex shaft, controlled by the speed selector. Please refer elsewhere to discussions related to the rubber wheel/friction plate/speed selector. There are lots of such references, but not too many regarding what I call 'Tractor Drive Spindle' that I describe here: 

If you post the model number/ serial number, then I can more accurately point you to what I'm talking about. BUT the naming used on some Parts Lists is confusing, and the exploded diagrams have also changed , so the orientation for the amateur (like me) can be tough.

Remove the belt cover, depress the Traction Drive (left) handle. and look down from above. Cycle the handle and look for the large tractor pulley to move about 3/16 of an inch to the rear, so as to make the Aluminum drive plate contact the rubber wheel. If there is little to no movement you will have to continue with 'separating' the tractor(engine) from the blower(auger/bucket) attachment, and remove the tractor pulley (use the small hole in the pulley for leverage; the shaft nut requires a 1" wrench !). Then you have direct access to the Clutch Fork, Drive Spindle, Drive Spindle Housing, and the two springs that return/retract the movement of the Traction Drive Handle Control Rod. Removing the engine idler pulley (and belt finger) will help with removal and installation of the engine/tractor drive belt. The pulley shaft is keyed, so its lots of fun to recenter it back on the freely spinning spindle shaft...  

The Clutch Fork moves the 'Roller' on the Drive Spindle. The Clutch Fork mounting/pivots could be bound up, or the Drive Spindle is not sliding in its housing. For reference the housing is bolted to the inner plate of the Engine Frame (3 bolts). Some other brands use a 'swing plate', but not on the Ariens 924050. 

I sprayed the drive spindle and Clutch Fork pivots/sliders with PB Blaster, then the next day I made sure all had good travel. Cleaned what I could, rotated the Spindle in the housing ('Roller' removed), then applied 3in1 to the drive spindle and sprayed lithium grease to the clutch pivots. Grabs like crazy now! Could have spent more time cleaning/smoothing up the clutch fork, and I'm not certain which part was binding: spindle or clutch fork assy, but I was just too glad that was finally moving... I will follow-up with some images.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Spray PB Blaster into the bearing carrier behind the drive plate. Move the Drive plate manually with a large Screwdriver or Pry Bar towards the friction wheel. Then Pry drive plate away from the friction wheel. Rinse and Repeat until it frees up. I've done this countless times. GL


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## conwaylake (Feb 6, 2014)

Definitely you should try Jackmels technique first. 
My method might be way too unnecessary. 

Ya know, I separated my machine before I bothered to take a good look 'through the bottom' when it was in service position. Find a way to work the spindle housing back and forth within the spindle housing mount, and it should work itself out for you. Try not to apply any sharp 'scratching force' to the friction disc surface.


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## dilly (2 mo ago)

Normex said:


> Welcome to the forum,
> First thing that comes to mind is, does your friction disk travel the hex shaft good with a light grease on the shaft? The way it works is the drive plate turns the friction disk then to the drive wheels via a chain sprocket so next is the chain still good? Try turning the wheels when in maintenance position and you should see your drive plate turning. Come back with your findings.


my drive plate is not turning but my attachment is still spinning? i also today started to hear a noise in the shifting lever when trying to switch positions. And the drive clutch when disengaged does not fully disengage. i took the skid plate off the bottom and the spring does not pull the opposite end but a couple 16ths of an inch. any ideas?


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## dilly (2 mo ago)

please help?


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Dilly,
Welcome to SBF!

Start a new thread woukd be best.

But,
Post picture of the underbelly area.
This should be easy to fix.


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## dilly (2 mo ago)

Tony-chicago said:


> Dilly,
> Welcome to SBF!
> 
> Start a new thread woukd be best.
> ...

















































i took a few from different angles camera is **** though so i’m not sure how much help it’ll be


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dilly said:


> i took a few from different angles


Hard to tell, but looks like you're missing a belt there? What's it look like at the top pulleys?


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## dilly (2 mo ago)

Tony-chicago said:


> Dilly,
> Welcome to SBF!
> 
> Start a new thread woukd be best.
> ...



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i took a few from different angles camera is **** though so i’m not sure how much help it’ll be
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tabora said:


> Hard to tell, but looks like you're missing a belt there? What's it look like at the top pulleys?
> View attachment 203111


the belt is there but with no tension and i’m not sure yet what the top pulleys look like i haven’t been able to get a look at the top. tomorrow i will be taking the attachment off to look at the front side. that spring is connected to the drive lever and when i push the lever down it should drive but the spring does not pull the drive pully like it should because the one end of the spring doesn’t even move it just twists as i push the lever. i’m assuming the spring should be replaced due to the fact it should have more tension to properly pull the drive pully into the drive position. i don’t know i am no expert i have come seeking guidance lol


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dilly said:


> the belt is there but with no tension and i’m not sure yet what the top pulleys look like i haven’t been able to get a look at the top.


When you take the belt cover off, it should look kind of like this:


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