# Stuck Bearing



## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Hi. I'm working on an Ariens snowblower 920402-167123

It came to me from a neighbor with drive issues and I quickly diagnosed as a bad friction disc. One side of it is missing all of the rubber. There was a mouse nest in there and since the machine is not that old and the rest of the wheel is in good condition, I'm assuming they ate it.

The problem I'm having is with the bearings on the ends of the hex shaft. I believe the one on the pinion side needs to be removed in order to slide the hex shaft out and remove the friction disc.

But that thing is rusted onto the end of the shaft pretty good. I can't work it loose but twisting back and forth because the bearing just spins, like it's supposed to. I tried banging the shaft a bit with a hammer and block of wood to coax it out but it just won't budge. I don't think I can heat it as there is a rubber seal.

here's a link to the diagram 
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/ariens/sno-thros-and-brushes/920-series-sno-thro/920402-123000-174999-sno-tek-24-e/friction-drive

Any help is appreciated. I don't have a problem with replacing the bearing if necessary but was trying to avoid it. Either way, it has to come off right?

Thanks very much


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

On my machine the bearing is in a flange so lubricate the outside of flange where it fits into the frame and use a big hammer (and a brass drift) to shock the other end of the hex shaft. Mine came loose easily.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

So I tried that but it didn't budge. However, I may not be hitting it hard enough. I'm kind of scared to hit it too hard. How hard can I hit it? As hard as I can?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Are you using something good like PB Blaster for a penetrating oil ??


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

The very same. I hit it with PB yesterday and let it sit over night. I sprayed it again today. I had originally removed both bearing flanges but reinstalled the right one as to keep the bearing centered for even distribution of force. I'm hitting the shaft on the right side with the left bearing flange off to allow it to move in that direction once broken loose. Am I on track?


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

lefty said:


> The very same. I hit it with PB yesterday and let it sit over night. I sprayed it again today. I had originally removed both bearing flanges but reinstalled the right one as to keep the bearing centered for even distribution of force. I'm hitting the shaft on the right side with the left bearing flange off to allow it to move in that direction once broken loose. Am I on track?


If both bearing flanges are removed then you have failed to remove something else and probably doing damage the more you hit the hex shaft. Did you remove the wire in the hex shaft to limit high gear and reverse gear?


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Do you mean the clips on either side of the shaft that limit the disc from sliding too far? They look like modified cotter pins that pass through a small hole in the hex shaft. I did remove those. As far as I can see, the only thing preventing the shaft from sliding in either direction right now are the bearings on either end. With the flanges off, I can wobble the shaft, pulling the pinion gear away from the larger gear. So there is movement in the shaft back and forth but not left and right. But it has not budged at all from left to right. 

Before tackling the job, I watched a video showing how to perform the task with the very same design. When the person removed the bearing flanges, the bearings slipped right off and stayed in the flanges. Once removed, the shaft just freely flopped around and pulled out the left side. And then the pinion gear slid right off the shoulder of the shaft on the right side, which is splined.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Deleted, I was typing when you did post six. Went and saw the viedeo, my idea is junk.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

It would fit over that but the problem is that the bearing will not pass into the housing body of the machine. The hole that the shaft passes through on the housing is smaller than the bearing, for obvious reasons. And it's the right side that has to come off because the gear is on the inside right, which would prevent the shaft from sliding to the right.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

When you get a chance it would be helpful if you went into your "User CP" and added a location.

Do you have room to get a small bearing puller on it ?? Oreilly and Autozone have loaner tools if you don't have one.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

I'm in MA. I do have bearing pullers but the back side of the bearing sits flush against the housing so I can't get a bite on it with a puller.

Pic below


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That's just ugly. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh Other than jamming a couple of screwdrivers behind the bearing against the body to take up the slack and rapping on the shaft at some point you might have to cook the bearing.
Hopefully someone comes along with a better idea but at some point that $15 bearing just isn't worth all the effort.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Right. I saw a price of just under $13 with $7 shipping. Made me want to grab my dremel and cut it right off. But I want to make sure I've exhausted my options.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Other than jamming a couple of screwdrivers behind the bearing against the body to take up the slack and rapping on the shaft at some point you might have to cook the bearing.


Actually, you just made a good point. There's no slack behind it but I bet that thin sheet metal is giving and screwing up my force differential.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

Socket right sized to hit inner bearing race but not the shaft, then punch the shaft itself to start working it back and forth? Brush any rust out too as you go.


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

use heat if you can


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Good news

I saw that the shaft was only $20. So I shed my fear, closed my eyes (which I know wasn't very bright), and gave it 2 good wacks with the drift and a small sledge...bingo.

The problem was simply and inadequately sized set of walnuts.

Thanks to everyone for helping to guide me down the path.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:icon-dancingparty: Life is good !!


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

never give up, never surrender


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> :icon-dancingparty: Life is good !!


Indeed.

This a wild one. I obviously tipped this machine up in order to get the belly pan off and work on the drive system. During my escapade, I found a 3/4 inch hex bolt on my garage floor. I was puzzled but since I kept good track of the parts, I figured it was just one of those pieces of hardware you find on your garage floor once in a while.

After finishing the friction disc job I decided to check the belts and noticed the auger pulley sliding freely up and down the impeller shaft. Guess what's missing from the end of the impeller shaft?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

lefty said:


> After finishing the friction disc job I decided to check the belts and noticed the auger pulley sliding freely up and down the impeller shaft. Guess what's missing from the end of the impeller shaft?


You'er going to need a good stiff drink after this is all done. Hope your neighbor appreciates all the work you put into it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

doesn't these problems always happen when you are trying to help someone else?

"no good deed goes unpunished "


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

It had to happen in MY garage. It's all mangled too so I have to find a new one. Must of been knocking around in there for a while.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

lefty said:


> It had to happen in MY garage. It's all mangled too so I have to find a new one. Must of been knocking around in there for a while.


The bolt and heavy locking washer are described in my parts manual as: bolt = BLT-HEX .31-24x.75 GR5 YWZC washer = WSHR-LX .31x.097 HVY YWZC

So I would interpret that as a 5/16" grade 5 hex head bolt of 3/4" length with 24 threads per inch and the heavy lock washer having an inside diameter of 5/16".

Hope that helps.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Town said:


> The bolt and heavy locking washer are described in my parts manual as: bolt = BLT-HEX .31-24x.75 GR5 YWZC washer = WSHR-LX .31x.097 HVY YWZC
> 
> So I would interpret that as a 5/16" grade 5 hex head bolt of 3/4" length with 24 threads per inch and the heavy lock washer having an inside diameter of 5/16".
> 
> Hope that helps.


It helps greatly. Thank you. Would you recommend running a tap through the impeller shaft threads before installing the new bolt? Also, do you know off hand the torque value?

Thanks


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

My owner manual does not give torque values but the general recommendations for a grade 5 bolt with clean threads on both surfaces is 13 or 14 lbs/ft. The variation is for course or fine thread.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i know i am a bit late to the party but i find when working on some stuff like that having a air hammer helps a lot. there has been some things i have beat on and never been able to get moving but barely touch it with an air hammer and they start moving super easily.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

I thought about that but only have a tapered punch bit, or at least that was the only one I could find at the time. I was afraid of screwing up the shaft. But thank you.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Sorry if this is a silly question but I'm also changing the oil on this one. I couldn't find an engine manual on this but I saw some stuff on the web about 16 oz for this machine. I drained 18 out of it and put 18 back in. When checking the dip stick, should it be fully screwed in or just put in and rested on top of the threads? Fully turned in is just about at the top of the mark and resting is at the bottom. I'd like to at least be in the middle.
Thanks


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

lefty said:


> Sorry if this is a silly question but I'm also changing the oil on this one. I couldn't find an engine manual on this but I saw some stuff on the web about 16 oz for this machine. I drained 18 out of it and put 18 back in. When checking the dip stick, should it be fully screwed in or just put in and rested on top of the threads? Fully turned in is just about at the top of the mark and resting is at the bottom. I'd like to at least be in the middle.
> Thanks


There aren't any silly questions. My LCT and 11 hp Tecumseh and the B&S 420 cc engines with extended fill tubes and threaded dip sticks require the dip stick be cleaned and tightened down to get the correct oil level. I would expect all similarly equipped engines to require the dip stick be fully bottomed to get the correct oil level.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

There isn't a standard answer I'm aware of. When in doubt I don't screw it down. If I'm in error at least I'm in error of having a bit too much. I have too many machines and except for the rider I use all the time I just can't keep them all straight without looking them up. I keep thinking I should mark the engines so I'd know.

.


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Appreciated. Thanks.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Fro


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## lefty (Feb 1, 2014)

Excellent. Thank you.


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