# New guy with a couple of HS624s



## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Hi, everyone; I just joined the forum to get some help as I go along fixing myself a HS624. Picked up a set of HS624s actually, both are missing a couple of key parts. 

Blower #1
- HS624 track version
- Missing auger assembly. 
- Everything else present and in working order. 

Blower #2
- HS624 wheel version.
- Missing engine
- Missing one of the side panels from the transmission housing. 


My intent is to disassemble both blowers and then piece together one blower using back side (engine/transmission) from the track version and auger housing/assembly from the wheel version. 
My few questions and comments
- Does the whole project sound feasible? 
- I am not missing any major components; at least that’s what I presume from visual inspection.
- One thing that I did notice is that the auger and the assembly tunnel on the wheeled HS624 is taller than the one on the HS624 with tracks. Ground clearance is the same along with the section that bolts to the back (black) portion.
- Would all the pulleys and belts be direct fit?
- Would buying the service manual be a good idea?
- I am pretty handy around small engines but I’d still like to get as much info before I start on engine cleanup and any sort of turning that I might need.
- Some of the parts need to be painted; can anyone guide me as to where I can pick up direct match paint for these blowers? I’d prefer something that is OE spec so I don’t run durability issues. 
As I mentioned earlier, any help/comments would be greatly appreciated, I’ll be posting more pictures as I go along. 


Here are a few pictures.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Feasibility- good question, you could cross check the part numbers on numerous sites. Like boats.net or parts tree.
Missing parts- thats the million dollar question, that will only be known as you progress into your project(s).
Tunnel difference- could be version difference, that could be verified by the "K" number. First gen is K0, then K1 and so on.
Pulley- a quick check of parts numbers of the pulley and belts ought to verify this.

Insofar as paint, i'm in the same boat on this. When it gets warmer, I need to clean up mine too.


Now, some suggestions:

The auger assembly pulls out after you take the six side bolts. Wouldn't it be easier to take the auger out of the wheeled, and install it into the tracked, and be done with one? I'd think that it would be at least worth a shot. 

And, considering that you have the running gear on the second(wheeled), you could install a harbor freight clone. Then remove the auger housing, and install a smaller dozer blade of sorts. You may be able to sell the housing to pay for the HF clone. Albeit, you will need a pulley to run the pump.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

^^ Thanks for the input, bud. 

I'll start disassembling the units once the weather gets a bit nicer. In the meantime I'll check the serial numbers to cross check the parts and make a list of what I have and what I am missing. 

The two key components that I am missing, in order to make sure I end up with two blowers, is an engine and one auger unit. The repower using HF engine sounds like a good idea and it'd only cost around $120 as I have a HF local. The issue is locating an auger unit as piecing it together with new parts would cost as much as $500. 

I may just end up selling the leftover parts on ebay etc. 

I have rebuilt a John Deere Z445 a couple of years ago and in the off season I usually refurbish the deck i.e. grease the spindles, clean the underside and also paint it. I have some good luck rustoleum so I might end up using that, the only issue is finding a perfect paint match. 

The propeller wheel from the wheeled auger unit is bigger in diameter than the auger unit tunnel hence I'd have to install the whole auger unit onto the track model rather than just the spinning apparatus.


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## TomB985 (Dec 21, 2013)

JnC said:


> The two key components that I am missing, in order to make sure I end up with two blowers, is an engine and one auger unit. The repower using HF engine sounds like a good idea and it'd only cost around $120 as I have a HF local. The issue is locating an auger unit as piecing it together with new parts would cost as much as $500.


It would probably be significantly more than that. I priced replacement augers at $240 each, the gearbox housing at $160, and another half dozen expensive bits that go with it. NOT a cheap thing to put together. 

But the harbor freight engine swap is as easy as could be. I have an HS624 that I bought with a blown up engine. Check out my thread on it, I have lots of pictures. 



JnC said:


> I may just end up selling the leftover parts on ebay etc.


That may be more feasible than putting together an auger assembly from scratch. Take a gander at Craigslist and eBay, perhaps you can pick up an auger assembly for a reasonable price.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

^^ Tom, I followed your build thread and I must say the new set up looks awesome, I may go that route eventually if I can find some parts on CL or local yard sales. I did find some parts from a newer 724, engine, auger unit (not the housing) and engine mounting plate etc. The guy is asking too much money for me to cough out just for some spares and the motor. Although, the idea of pairing a 7 hp motor to the track 624 doesn't sound all that bad.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Also, I found this video while searching for matching paint for the blower. 
Even if its close I dont mind scuffing all the parts down, applying some POR-15 to spots with rust and then painting the whole thing.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Bringing an old thread back to life, quick question on changing the fluid for the hydrostatic transmission. Honda suggests using only honda fluid, my question is would it be ok to use JD hy-gard instead? I ask this as I have a gallon of this stuff sitting with me, leftover from when I changed the fluid in my Z445. 

John Deere Hy-Gard Transmission and Hydraulic Oil - Gallons=TY6354 - 2.5-Gallons=TY22062


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

I am finally done with the upgrade/restoration. My original intent was to do the work this past summer but due to another restoration project, restored a 2000 Honda S2000, I couldn’t get to the blowers in time. I started work on the blowers on 11/5/2014, due to delays in parts being shipped plus the engine swap, I got done a couple of days ago. Following is the list of what was done. 

*Engine*
After I got done servicing and sprucing the GX160 i.e. rebuilt the carb, change the valve cover gasket, changed the oil, changed the plug did the valve adjustment, I came across the GX270 (honda 9 hp motor) that was calling my name. So picked that up to be used for the new project.


GX270 was given the full overhaul to say the least. I wanted to do the job once and do it right, motor was strong to begin with, pulled a 95 psi when I did the compression test and that number is suppose to be in the 80~120 mark.
I am no mechanic but love getting my hands dirty so this was a learning experience which I thoroughly enjoyed.
- Changed the crankcase cover gasket.
- Changed the drive shaft seal.
- Honed/deglazed cylinder walls. 
- Changed the piston rings.
- There are no seals around the valve guides, I noticed a bit play in the guide and a bit of carbon build up around the guide, decided to change them both. So, the valve guides, valve springs, valves and valve retainers were changed. 
- Noticed some bad casting marks in the exhaust and intake port. Ported and polished both ports. 
- Seated the head with the old valves before installing the new ones. 
- Rebuilt the carb.
- Changed the spark plug and valve cover gasket. 
- Changed the head gasket as I noticed some blow by around the exhaust side. 
- Exhaust gaskets were replaced, exhaust and exhaust shields were painted with high heat paint.
- OEM exhaust deflector was installed.
- EZ drain installed on the right side of the engine.
- Drained and changed the oil twice after running the new engine for an hour each time.
- Finally changed the engine oil with Royal Purple.

*Transmission
*- The hydrostatic transmission was removed from the chassis, all the seals were replaced.
- Even though the Hydrostatic fluid is good for the life of the blower I didnt like how dark it had gotten from the usage. Completely drained it and replaced it with fresh Honda HST fluid.
- Transmission was properly bled per service manual instruction.
- Right transfer case had lost most of its grease over the years, dirt had gotten in as well, I thoroughly washed the parts, checked the bearings, replaced the seal, the grease and installed a fresh gasket as well. 
- New auger and drive belts.

*Body
*- Auger housing was stripped and painted, inside and out. 
- Chute was stripped and painted. 
- Chassis parts were stripped and painted. 
- All the cables were lubricated using cable lube and cable lubing tool.
- The chute control arm was altered a bit to fit around the bigger engine. 
- Even though the engine bed is the same for both the HS624 and HS928 the mounting studs are in different location, wider for the GX270 motor. Honda punches 8 holes in the bed and utilizes the pertinent 4 for the motor to be used. I had to cut the old studs and use the other set of 4 holes to mount/weld new studs in order to mount the GX270 onto the chassis.
- Smaller HS624 belt cover was replaced with bigger cover from HS928 model.
- Augers were sand blasted and painted.
- New shear bolts.
- Main bearing around the auger pulley was also replaced.
- Gripo auger housing was installed, made for the HS624 model.
- The tank that came with the GX270 model had a dent on the top which prohibited the cap from making a perfect seal with the tank lip, old tank was discarded and replaced with the re-manufactured GX390 tank. 
- Shift and chute lever were disassembled completely, greased and reassembled. 
- Factory scraper bar and rear mounted skids were removed, sand blasted, painted, reinstalled and then adjusted to suggested heights. 
- Armor skids were installed. The auger housing being used is older style and does not have factory holes for side mounting skids. I drilled two holes for the armor skids, installed a custom made spacer between the auger housing and the new skids. Also, drilled holes in the skids to make room for the scrapper bar bolts.
- Rubber blades were also installed on the main impeller.


*Lights
*- The GX270 came with the factory headlight and headlight bracket. I replaced it with two 20W cree LEDs mounted to either side of the control cover. 
- Installed a hobby box with all the wiring, bridge rectifier and capacitors installed in it on the underside of the control cover.
- Installed an illuminated switch for the LEDs. 

I think thats about it, big thanks to all the SBF members for all their help and expertise. 


As mentioned before, I thoroughly enjoyed this project and cant wait to tackle my next projects i.e restoring a Yamaha YS-624T and YS-828T down the road some time.


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Wow, give yourself a big pat on the back, that looks great! Thanks for the update and picture. Of course, we'd like to see more photos of your work.


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## joee5 (Nov 30, 2014)

End result looks great


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Very nice. I do like the Honda blowers. Relatively compact design even with the tracked versions yet they toss the snow 40 to 50 feet and the engines are nice and quiet and fuel efficient.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

A few more pictures and video


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## Apple Guy (Sep 7, 2014)

High five on that project. Well done!!!!!


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Thanks, guys; no way in **** I could have completed the project without you folks here on SBF.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Great job, looks like a monster. Can I ask how much a complete set of stickers/decals set you back? And were you tempted to make up an 'HS924?'


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

dhazelton said:


> Great job, looks like a monster. Can I ask how much a complete set of stickers/decals set you back? And were you tempted to make up an 'HS924?'


When I painted everything I had masked all the decals, hence there was no need to purchase new decals for the auger and the chute. 

The decals on the tank are new and I think they were any where $2~$5. 

The decal on the auger extension was $2.50 shipped through ebay, quality is phenomenal. 

8 5" Honda Car Motorcycle Vinyl Decal Sticker Red 01 | eBay

I did think of changing the HS624 to HS924 but the side decals are $14 a piece, not worth the $28 in my opinion.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Used the machine first time today, this thing is loud . The exhaust deflector and the ported exhaust port may have something to do with it.

I usually never use my snowblower this early, especially on a Sunday but the the slushy stuff in front of the driveway made it impossible for me to pull my car out and I was in no mood to break my back shoveling it. Fired up the machine and put it through its paces to say that I am impressed would be an understatement. 

The wet slushy stuff that gave my old craftsman nightmares got flinged about 60 feet to the side of the property. The rubber blades that I installed on the impeller made sure that the machine didnt clog.


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## Apple Guy (Sep 7, 2014)

JnC said:


> Used the machine first time today, this thing is loud . The exhaust deflector and the ported exhaust port may have something to do with it.
> 
> I usually never use my snowblower this early, especially on a Sunday but the the slushy stuff in front of the driveway made it impossible for me to pull my car out and I was in no mood to break my back shoveling it. Fired up the machine and put it through its paces to say that I am impressed would be an understatement.
> 
> The wet slushy stuff that gave my old craftsman nightmares got flinged about 60 feet to the side of the property. The rubber blades that I installed on the impeller made sure that the machine didnt clog.


I highly doubt porting an exhaust port would have any affect of making the motor any louder. Now if you altered the cam profile or retarded the cam timing maybe. 

Also, how much casting crap was in the exhaust port? Any pictures?? Are we talking bad designed port with the exhaust hitting a squared off ledge where the valve guide material is like some Briggs have. Did you take out a lot of aluminum? Did you change OEM port design in anyway? My 928 is a dog compared my Yamaha 828. Maybe I have a ton of casting crap in my ports.

I once had a KDX 250 motorcycle that when I did a light port cleaning, woke the bike up to be a completely different personality with a increased power band and HP. We are talking 15% more power. Granted this was a 2 stroke, but if you have casting slag in the wrong place it can be very detrimental to performance.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Porting on the exhaust side was enough to clean the passage rather than taking off tons of material. I didnt take before/after pictures of the ports, I did however enlarge the intake port and spent a lot of time polishing it. Since this is my first time with an HS928 may be thats why the machine seems louder as I have no idea how loud stock HS928 sounds. 

The casting marks on the intake side were very bad and were present on about 60% of the surface area, I'd highly advise on at least taking the carb off and inspecting the port.

My yamahas are not running at the moment so I cant make a comparison between the honda and the yamahas. One interesting bit that I did find was that the Honda 6 HP motor is 160cc where as the 6hp yamaha is 202cc, the 8hp honda is 240 cc and the 8hp yamaha is 291 cc. That means that the 8hp yamaha is 21cc bigger than even the 9hp GX270 honda. No wonder a lot people say that the YS-828 performs just as good as HS1132.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Can I ask how you installed the rubber paddles on the second stage? I watched youtube vids and they all show someone simply zipping self tapping sheet metal screws in really quickly. I went to do that and the steel on the impeller must be 1/8 inch! I'd need a new carbide bit to just start a hole.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

dhazelton said:


> Can I ask how you installed the rubber paddles on the second stage? I watched youtube vids and they all show someone simply zipping self tapping sheet metal screws in really quickly. I went to do that and the steel on the impeller must be 1/8 inch! I'd need a new carbide bit to just start a hole.



Self tapping screws just wouldnt work with the honda impeller. As you said its a good 3~4 mm thick. 

I had the impeller out, drilled a couple of holes, tapped them, used steel bolts to put everything together with some anti-seize lathered on the bolts. Thats the only way I could see this being done but the result is great. All I removed this morning was slush and the blower didnt even show a single sign of getting clogged.


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