# Craftsman 536.882700 4166 10HP 32 Driftbreaker



## unknown1

I just picked up an old Craftsman Driftbreaker 10HP 32"
I bought it just because I thought I might use the engine and the electric starter.
This one is a single shaft... I need a twin shaft right now.. but will be able to use it one day.

Craftsman 536.882700 Code 4166
Tecumseh Engine HM100-159095J should be Craftsman 143 746072 SER ?130D

Craftsman to Tecumseh Info Here: http://www.mytractorforum.com/44-small-engines-repair/159343-what-hp-tecumseh.html
Snowblower Parts Here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/536882700/0247/1507200.html
Craftsman Engine Parts Here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...=modelSearch&q=143746072&searchTerm=143746072
Jacks Engine Parts Here: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...umseh/4-cycle-horizontal/hm-100/hm100-159095j
HM100 Manual Here: http://www.2cpdonline.com/scan_pdf/HM100.PDF

Here are a couple of photos. More will be added to this album tomorrow.
*Photos*: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3E72ORdvok3uNKxR2

I found a nice rebuild thread from HCBPH and borrowed a couple of photos from there.
Rebuild Thread: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/res...nowblower-purchase-and-proceedi-t4346714.html

It's late and I'm tired so I haven't begun to look at the machine yet. 

Main problem so far:

The previous owner snapped the two top front-facing bolt holes on the transmission soon after he got it. (see photo album).
He then change out the transmission and immediately snapped the same two bolt holes on his second transmission after just 2 or 3 uses.

So I have a couple of questions

1) What are the other four bolt holes used for on the same face as the two broken holes? (see annotated photo). 
Do I have a mounting plate missing in this machine? 
I can't see any extra plates in HCBPH's pictures. I also cannot see anything on the Sear's diagrams.

2) If those holes are not actually used for anything... 
Do you have any thoughts why he went through two aluminum transmissions in rapid succession? 
What should I be looking to fix to prevent the same thing happening a third time? 
I did a speed read of a couple of threads and saw mention of a couple of bolts that can work loose. 

3) This machine looks good enough to repair if I can find a way to "fix" those broken bolt holes. 
One possibility is to square off the broken mounts and try to put a spacer on them to build them back up to the correct length... maybe add lots of JB Weld to hold the spacer?
Alternatively, I would need to find a welder who knows how to work with aluminum. I have both transmissions (with broken holes) to play with.
I'm even thinking about possibly having an extra mounting plate added so that I can use those 4 extra holes and get more strength for the transmission. 
Does this sound reasonable and/or necessary?

Aluminum Brazing versus Welding: http://www.millerwelds.com/resource...-discussions/8551-aluminum-brazing-vs-welding

Thanks


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## Jackmels

I'd Pull the motor and Find an Ariens or Toro to Drop it on. Parts Might be a Hassle.


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## jtclays

I do


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## Kiss4aFrog

My guess would be the other holes are for different applications. Maybe a small rider ??
I think you should try to save it. Weak point is the shaft bushings that are plastic and almost impossible to find. Replacing mine with bearings like HCBPH did. My trans was also busted but luckily the parts were still in there and at some point I'll have them welded back onto the transmission. I haven't worked on it for some time but I wanted to add something to try and use a couple of the lower mounts to help brace the transmission to the body so it would be less likely to break again.
I also drilled the gear cluster to accept a grease zerk so it could be greased easily. I had a Jacobsen that the previous owner let that gear eat the shaft away.


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## unknown1

Kiss4aFrog said:


> My guess would be the other holes are for different applications. Maybe a small rider ??
> I think you should try to save it. Weak point is the shaft bushings that are plastic and almost impossible to find. Replacing mine with bearings like HCBPH did. My trans was also busted but luckily the parts were still in there and at some point I'll have them welded back onto the transmission. I haven't worked on it for some time but I wanted to add something to try and use a couple of the lower mounts to help brace the transmission to the body so it would be less likely to break again.
> I also drilled the gear cluster to accept a grease zerk so it could be greased easily. I had a Jacobsen that the previous owner let that gear eat the shaft away.


Thanks for the info. It would be nice to save it if possible.

I'll take a look at the shaft bearings to see if that was putting things out of alignment or rattling around. 
Unfortunately this machine does not have the belly plate on it so the chunks of aluminum are long gone.
It's hard to imagine that the internals of both transmissions are messed up... it's possible... but the bearings and alignment sound more likely.

I've no idea if it's easy or even possible to rebuild those mounts back up to the correct height.. It's beyond my capability but I'll take one round to the local welders and see what they think.
If I manage to get a transmission repaired or find a third transmission, I think that adding an extra plate to make use of those 4 extra holes would help give more strength.

I don't have much to lose at this point... I was only going for the engine and the starter motor in the first place.


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## jtclays

Goo


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## unknown1

Well... there's virtually zero rust on this machine. It's hardly been used. 
Maybe because they could never get the transmissions to survive ;-)

Added lots more photos to the album:https://photos.app.goo.gl/3E72ORdvok3uNKxR2


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## Kiss4aFrog

It could be the bearing letting the gears get jammed with the chain that fractures the trans mounts. Both the drive axle and auger axle ride on plastic bushings so IMHO both should be replaced if you're going to rebuild one of these.


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## unknown1

Kiss4aFrog said:


> It could be the bearing letting the gears get jammed with the chain that fractures the trans mounts. Both the drive axle and auger axle ride on plastic bushings so IMHO both should be replaced if you're going to rebuild one of these.


Interesting to hear you say that..
One of the chains is currently either snapped or off its sprocket and wedged between the sprocket and the metal body. 
Dismantling later today.

Yes replacing the plastic bearings are probably a must do for the long term. 

EDIT: Potential good news on the chunks of aluminum... the pieces are still in there for the current transmission so that might help re-weld.
From what I've read, aluminum welding or brazing is a fine art. A balance between too much heat and too little due to conduction away from the join.


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## unknown1

I think I know why the 2 transmissions were broken... at least the second of the two.

There is a missing spacer on the drive shaft between the drive sprocket and the left wheel bearing.
This allows about 1/2 inch of lateral movement of the shaft which takes the sprocket and the chain along for the ride.
The chain then slams into a protruding bolt from the handlebars.
This jams the chain which breaks the aluminum transmission bolt mounting holes 
The chain also unhooks from the sprockets and chews the plastic wheel bearing as it becomes trapped.

If that spacer was missing earlier, it would explain why the first transmission broke too.

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rLn7GitJENDAgsVc2

I am hoping the insides of the transmissions are OK. I can spin the pulley and see the transmission output sprocket spin... no grinding...so at least one gear is working.
First I need to see if I can get someone to weld the broken aluminum transmission bolt holes and re-tap them to make it possible to remount the transmission.
No point switching bearings until I know the transmission can be saved.
If I then replace the bearings and get the necessary spacers to avoid any lateral motion the problem should not reoccur.

A few shim washers to make the chains align nicely and to tighten up the chains will help (see HCBPH thread for that).
While I am at it, I may as well add something like the plastic conduits that HCBPH added between the wheels and the bearings to add further resistance to lateral movement. 

Fingers crossed on the welding.. at a price that makes sense.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Finally found a photo of what the replacement bearings would look like and also a repair plate for the transmission.
I pm's HCBPH to see if there is something he can do to re-link his photos. He had some great show and tell !!


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## unknown1

Here is a thread that describes how to repair a broken transmission when the two holes fail.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/906585-post15.html

Posts 15 and 24 on that thread introduce the plate I was thinking about to make use of the extra 4 mounting holes.

I've already sent my two transmissions to the welder so I guess it's too late for me to go that route.
The re-welds should be better than new because the new aluminum will be non-porous and he's also an FAA certified aircraft welder.
It is costing more than I hoped but at least I'll end up with two strong working transmissions.


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## HCBPH

The plate works well to fix broken motor mounts. There's 6 mounts on the tranny, top 2 are used for large frame blowers, other ones on the back are used for small frame. I don't know what's used on garden tractors etc.


I've attached a couple of photo's for help, I do have a pdf of doing the repairs but it's a little too large to upload.


The way the mounts break typically is either the double sprocket is badly worn or the shoulder bolts work loose. What happens then is the chain tries to walk off the sprocket, jams up and breaks the weakest link which is the mount. The plate I made replaces the broken mounts and positions the transmission in the same spot as long as the spacers are reduced by the thickness of the plate.


Hope that helps.
PS if you want a copy of the pdf, shoot me a pm with your email address and I'll send you a copy. May take a little time but you'll get it eventually.


Paul


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## unknown1

Bringing all my reference material under one place.

*Repair:*
Here are a couple of PDF files from HCBPH (Paul) showing..
1) How to repair a broken transmission using a metal plate and the 4 extra mount holes
2) Replacing plastic bushings with Flange Bearings
They are now on my google drive so no PM or emails necessary
Google Drive here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0J8tVzfnr5VdG1NSjc1V2pDUm8

*Rebuild:*
HCBPH (Paul) Rebuild Thread: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/rest...-t4346714.html

*References:*
Craftsman to Tecumseh Info Here (see post #3): http://www.mytractorforum.com/44-sma...-tecumseh.html
Snowblower Parts Here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mode...7/1507200.html
Craftsman Engine Parts Here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mode...Term=143746072
Jacks Engine Parts Here: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/ja.../hm100-159095j
HM100 Manual Here: http://www.2cpdonline.com/scan_pdf/HM100.PDF

*Photos of my machine:
*Snowblower:* https://photos.app.goo.gl/3E72ORdvok3uNKxR2
*
Many thanks to HCBPH (Paul) for his excellent documentation


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## HCBPH

Appreciate the compliments. One thing I've found is it appears a majority of the broken transmission mounts happen because the shoulder bolts on that intermediate shaft that the transmission mounts to come loose and cause the shaft to drop enough to cause the chain to try and jump the sprocket. Once I figured out what was going on I used Loctite on the threads of the shoulder bolts during reassembly. As a safety measure, I drill and tap a small hole on one of the flats of the shoulder bolt head through the outside of the tractor unit and insert a small screw. The screw prevents the shoulder bolt from loosening and backing out due to vibration. The intermediate shaft can't rotate due to the transmission being mounted on it, the shoulder bolts can't come loose because of the Loctite and extra screw so little chance of ever having it get damaged in the future, especially if you shim the sprocket too.


That's what I've been doing and so far it's worked well for me.


Paul


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## unknown1

Got my two transmissions back from the welder. Should be able to get the Drift Breaker working tomorrow.

Weld Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LlynqFE1qS5bxOgp2


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## HCBPH

Stuart




You know those holes will need to be tapped, from the pictures it doesn't look like that's been done yet. If it was me, I'd get 2 taps. A regular one and a bottoming one. Start with the first and finish with the 2d. Be sure to use a lot of grease etc and take it a little at a time and back up regularly so you don't gall the threads. What I can see looks good.


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## Shryp

Are we worried about the welding baking the grease or the axle seals?

Do these transmissions use a grease or a gear oil?

Should you maybe open them up and examine the inside before reassembly?


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## unknown1

HCBPH said:


> Stuart
> You know those holes will need to be tapped, from the pictures it doesn't look like that's been done yet. If it was me, I'd get 2 taps. A regular one and a bottoming one. Start with the first and finish with the 2d. Be sure to use a lot of grease etc and take it a little at a time and back up regularly so you don't gall the threads. What I can see looks good.


He already tapped them.. I don't know if he bothered to do the bottoming tap to square it off or not.. the holes are a little deeper than I need so the bottom is not too critical.


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## unknown1

The transmission has the following model information etched on a plate...

*700 016 Peerless 6239 7172
Patent 3,812,735

*I believe this makes it a 700 series and specifically * 700-016*
Manufactured in year 6 on day 239 with serial 7172

*Lubrication (from page 7 of manual below):*
12 oz./355 ml Bentonite Grease
Part Number 788067B
Grease Here: Peerless Bentonite Grease LP #788067B

The repair video called "Peerless/Tecumseh manual Trans Axles Rant" says that this grease starts out "liquid" but turns to a solid "peanut butter" over time.
He claims that once it solidifies, it accumulates on the case and does not lubricate the gears properly.
The video talks about salvaging the grease and mixing it with kerosene or diesel to turn it back to a liquid. 
I don't like the sound of that and would prefer to just buy bentonite grease.. it is water-repelling and supposed to be good for high temperatures.
Repair videos here: https://www.google.com/search?q=tec...jr3WAhUn7IMKHSNJCMsQ_AUIDSgE&biw=1920&bih=926

The claim to be water-resistant is a bit strange because many houses in South Denver are built on bentonite clay and they suffer from cracks in the foundation and wobbly basement slabs due to the clay expanding and shrinking dramatically when exposed to ground-water followed by drought. ??? It's also used in cat litter to absorb fluids. Maybe they mean it will absorb the water and keep it away from the metal gears. ???

*Tecumseh PeerlessTransmission Technician Handbook:
* Lube on page 7 rest of 700 series on Pages 13 to 16
Here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0J8tVzfnr5VN2lZQlV3TlY2bXM

Transmission Photos showing Model Number Plate Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LlynqFE1qS5bxOgp2

* 700-016 *(aka TEC794279A) shows up at the bottom of this table as NLA
Tecumseh Products | Peerless Transmission | Peerless Transaxle


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## unknown1

Shryp said:


> Are we worried about the welding baking the grease or the axle seals?
> Do these transmissions use a grease or a gear oil?
> Should you maybe open them up and examine the inside before reassembly?


They use bentonite grease.
Grease Here: Peerless Bentonite Grease LP #788067B
I have already mounted one transmission onto the machine and I wanted to check it out in the morning.
I guess I should open up the other transmission first and take a peek at the grease to see how it looks.
This stuff turns into fairly solid peanut butter over time so it will be interesting to see what effect the welding had.

EDIT: Bentonite grease can be used on furnace doors so it presumably can take very high temperatures ???


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## 10953

interesting fact about the grease, my old toro powershift also uses a peerless trans also yet used 14.5 oz) of Lubriplate mag 1 grease,"aka the normal white stuff we get at the auto parts store "


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## unknown1

87 powershift said:


> interesting fact about the grease, my old toro powershift also uses a peerless trans also yet used 14.5 oz) of Lubriplate mag 1 grease,"aka the normal white stuff we get at the auto parts store "


That's interesting to hear because the Technicians manual talks about using primarily Bentonite grease in all of their transmissions. ??? (See page 7).
Page 7 snippet: _NOTICE Grease: Bentonite Grease Part Number 788067B

_ Technicians Handbook Here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0J8tVzfnr5VN2lZQlV3TlY2bXM

They do however use lubriplate grease on the brakes if fitted (see page 16 paragraph E11) and use E.P. Grease on the needle bearings (page 14 paragraph E2) but otherwise they say 12oz Bentonite Grease (page 15 paragraph E8). 

Technicians Handbook snippets:
Page 14 paragraph E2 (Needle bearings)
_NOTE: All Needle bearings are lubricated with E.P. Grease. DO NOT USE BENTONITE on needle bearings. For maximum gear train life use only Bentonite grease on all shafts and gears, Tecumseh part number 788067B.

_Page 15 paragraph E8 (Gears)_
8. Install shifter assembly (shaft, pins and fan) 12 oz. Bentonite grease around gearing, and reinstall cover on case. Torque cap screws 90-110 in. lbs.
_
Page 16 paragraph E11 (Brakes)_
11. Apply a light film of lubriplate to the inside of lever portion which contacts pins, also to outside of lever which contacts flat washer and between shaft O.D. and bore of brake disc. Brake pads and brake disc must be free of grease and oil._

*Do not mix greases:*
I also read (eg below) that you can't mix bentonite and non-bentonite grease... you have to totally degrease everything if you want to switch. I am not keen to totally dismantle the gears from the transmissions unless I am forced into it and would prefer to just squirt more bentonite in there. Murphy's law says I'd mess up the rebuild....part of me doesn't even want to open them up to take a look. I just have a poor-quality torque wrench from Harbor Freight that won't click so I would just be trying to guess the correct re-tighten torque. (90-110 inch pounds).
Apparently, Bentonite grease can be used on furnace doors so it presumably can take very high temperatures ???

Warning about mixing greases Here: http://www.gdnash.com/mixinggreases/
Warning about mixing non-bentonite grease here:http://www.lsc-online.com/bentone-grease/
Grease compatibility study Here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=11&ved=0ahUKEwih1vGpmb7WAhXm7IMKHfyqAP4QFghgMAo&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amrri.com%2FPDF%2FRP2016_Wurzbach_GreaseCompatibility_Rev3.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEOwlQih6p7UswNKo8lzoGYtPsNdg


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## unknown1

So I thought I'd better check to see if the grease can withstand the heat of the aluminum weld. 

It can!

Internal Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wp67Jm1mwvRfpNoG2

It is thick and pasty and clings to a spreader even when you turn the spreader upside down.. but that's what others have said in their videos.
I didn't find a dried out crusty brick of kitty litter and didn't find that the oils had separated out from the clay.
I guess the heat of the welding did not conduct deep into the grease.
I gooped some up from the case and plopped it onto the gears to get it back where it matters.
I am assuming that the other transmission (already mounted) would look the same inside.

While researching, I did notice that some bentonite greases have an operating temperature up to 200C (392F) and a drop point (melting point) of 300C (572F) 
The melting point of aluminum is 659C (1218F) so it was a good suggestion to check to make sure. 

Different make of Bentonite grease operating temperatures here: Bentonite-MoS2 NLGI-2


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## unknown1

Everything is pretty much working now on the Drift Breaker.

It took a couple of attempts to line up the teeth on the shift-lever bevel gear so that its positions match the internal gears of the transmission.
Just the basics remain... clean out the carburetor and check the idle circuit (it surges a little), change the oil.
Need to get a replacement ball knob for the auger engage lever (not critical... top plastic half-ball is missing).
Find a belly plate... how do people lose those??

Another one saved! (and I now have a spare transmission too).


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## 10953

OOHHH yes!! i agree on not mixing greases, it's never been a good idea, it can be deadly like mixing ammonia and Clorox 

yet it is crazy how the same trans used in different machines can use a different grease for different operating conditions 
when i opened my old spare the grease was white not black , one would think since tech's peerless unit made them that on the line they would used the same item, 
heres a copy paste of the shop manual section 6 found here,
https://www.torodealer.com/en-us/Pa...kmrTa99ETtUZ3ntRpMgJmh6rhrY+&defaultTab=parts


Transmission Reassembly
NOTE: Use only [email protected] Mag 1 Grease Toro part
number 505-101) in the transmission. Its excellent
performance at low temperatures greatly enhances the
service life of the transmission. See Figure 81
also 

Apply (14.5 oz) of Lubriplate(R) Mag 1 grease (Toro
part number 505-101) to gears in transmission. Fill
under gears first, then top. Also grease shift forks.
Install upper gear case half
lubriplate shows it as a multy purpose semifluid grease https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Multi-Purpose-Greases/MAG-00-and-MAG-1.html


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## unknown1

87 powershift said:


> ...yet it is crazy how the same trans used in different machines can use a different grease for different operating conditions
> when i opened my old spare the grease was white not black , one would think since tech's peerless unit made them that on the line they would used the same item, ....


Yep.. very strange.. but not really.... There's many ways to skin a cat or lube a cat. ;-)
I guess the important thing is to just keep using whatever it was they put in there at the factory.. that way we can avoid needing to totally de-grease everything and start over again to avoid grease incompatibilities.
I wonder if I could make my own special recipe using soiled kitty litter (bentonite clay) and old used engine oil? D'ya think I could sell that for $30 a tube? ;-)


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## 10953

OHHH YES!! if that could be done we all could be sitting around at cabo drinking some cold ones in the winter rather then dealing with snow and plow banks. 


a heads up if you haven't found yet, TRACTOR supply if you have one nearby has a lot of these odd bearing/bushings and spacers of many types, (like that spacer you found missing on that axle shaft) and we all find a need of at times, plus sell nuts,washers and bolts of grade 3 to 8 in BULK meaning by the pound,just keep the grades separated, shinny is grade 3, green is grade 5 yellow is grade 8 , a bag of 5 or a bag of 8, lengths.nuts or washers don't matter only color and weight, special items like the bearings are each or in bags having 4 or 5 of each such as fender washers


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## HCBPH

Shryp said:


> Are we worried about the welding baking the grease or the axle seals?
> 
> Do these transmissions use a grease or a gear oil?
> 
> Should you maybe open them up and examine the inside before reassembly?


 
This is one of those "if it's not broken don't fix it" situations to me. I've seen the guts of one of these transmissions opened up, looks like an easy one to have something get out of place very easily. The time I looked you couldn't get internal parts and seals when I looked. In fact Tecumseh lists it as a sealed unit and not to open. As a side note, the 3, 4, & 5 speed units used in the blowers I've worked on all interchange physically, you can swap them out without modifying the mounts. There will be the difference in the number of gears and some of the ones from smaller HP units have a maybe a 5/8" pulley shaft vs 3/4" on the bigger ones. If you have the right size pulley, so far I have not found a down side to swapping them other than the number of forward speeds available. I keep an eye out for parts units, if they are the right models and the right price (usually free to $25) I've picked then up just for the parts.


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## classiccat

stuart80112 said:


> Well... there's virtually zero rust on this machine. It's hardly been used.
> Maybe because they could never get the transmissions to survive ;-)
> 
> Added lots more photos to the album:https://photos.app.goo.gl/3E72ORdvok3uNKxR2


Darn-right! that's one clean machine! :surprise:


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## HCBPH

I swear these large frame Murrays with the Tecumseh transmission (like this one, the 7-10 HP units) are built like a tank and could probably chew up an illegally parked Toyota without even loosing speed in most cases. I've chewed through 3' of frozen snowplow droppings along the sidewalk out front and some 3' boulders the end loader left in the alley in front of the garage with the Searsasaurus. Didn't even drag the engine down tearing that stuff up. Biggest problem I had was traction and I have chains on it so I don't think there's much more that can be done in that area. Big thing I will note is I changed out the plastic bushings on the auger and axel for flanged roller bearings, they make a heck of a difference there. I don't know how well it would survive with the plastic bushings so if you have those do it at your own risk as they won't likely survive such abuse.


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## unknown1

HCBPH said:


> This is one of those "if it's not broken don't fix it" situations to me. I've seen the guts of one of these transmissions opened up, looks like an easy one to have something get out of place very easily....


Yes indeed.. I opened one up to see if the weld heat had damaged the grease... but it looked OK to me. I just closed it up again (after moving some grease around) and left well alone. I didn't even open the other transmission which is now on the machine.



HCBPH said:


> .... Big thing I will note is I changed out the plastic bushings on the auger and axel for flanged roller bearings, they make a heck of a difference there. I don't know how well it would survive with the plastic bushings so if you have those do it at your own risk as they won't likely survive such abuse.


I found a pair of bearings that I think were auger bearings from another machine. Same drill hole pattern. They were the type that look like two metal plates with a drilled metal ping-pong ball between them. I'm using them as drive shaft bearings.... I think they can take the weight of the machine because they are made of metal. I left the plastic auger bearings alone for now... they look solid and wobble-free. I'll worry about proper roller bearings later if the need arises.

Apart from re-welding the two transmissions, the main "repair" I carried out was to add the necessary missing spacer on the left side of the drive shaft (near the chain sprocket) and then added even more shim washers on the other end of the drive shaft so that there is now almost zero lateral movement of the drive shaft. Assuming I've got the chains properly aligned, they will stay that way... forever. Previously I could slide that shaft left and right by 1/2" or more! That was probably the initial cause of the problem allowing the drive chain to snarl up and fall off.... twice.. destroying the mounts on two transmissions.

Finishing off messing with the carburetor today after soaking in an ultrasonic tank last night to try to solve the surging problem. Then will change the oil and I'm done (except for a missing belly plate). I've never pulled a welch plug from a carburetor but I may need to this time if the ultrasonic tank didn't clear all the holes. It needed partial choke and was surging on full throttle and would stall on half throttle.. classic lean mixture starvation (even with adjustable jets)... will also check carefully for air leaks. I didn't push out the emulsion tube... I don't know if I have the correct spare o-rings... cross that bridge if it still surges.

Now... where was that illegally parked Toyota I saw yesterday.... ;-)


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## HCBPH

stuart80112 said:


> I found a pair of bearings that I think were auger bearings from another machine. Same drill hole pattern. They were the type that look like two metal plates with a drilled metal ping-pong ball between them. I'm using them as drive shaft bearings.... I think they can take the weight of the machine because they are made of metal. I left the plastic auger bearings alone for now... they look solid and wobble-free. I'll worry about proper roller bearings later if the need arises.


 
2 plates with a bronze oval shaped bushing between - you found gold there. That's what was used on them prior to Murray switching over to the plastic bushings (I even tried to make a pair once - didn't work out too well). The bushings are still available but not the plates any more, which is why I converted mine to bearings. You won't have an issue with them, they're just as solid as bearings, maybe even a little more so as they won't have any 'shock' issues if you slam into something heavy and hard. You'll break a shear bolt or damage an auger before you'll damage those. :devil:


If you ever part out a machine that has them, save them along with the transmission above everything else.


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## unknown1

HCBPH said:


> 2 plates with a bronze oval shaped bushing between - you found gold there. That's what was used on them prior to Murray switching over to the plastic bushings (I even tried to make a pair once - didn't work out too well). The bushings are still available but not the plates any more, which is why I converted mine to bearings. You won't have an issue with them, they're just as solid as bearings, maybe even a little more so as they won't have any 'shock' issues if you slam into something heavy and hard. You'll break a shear bolt or damage an auger before you'll damage those.
> If you ever part out a machine that has them, save them along with the transmission above everything else.


Ha... nice to know I got lucky! I also have another pair but this time they have a plastic oval shaped bushing (aka ping pong ball).

The reason I have all these stray parts is because this machine came with a spare auger bucket with augers and gearbox (all complete and rust-free) attached to a partial transmission unit (wheels, transmission, pulleys, belts, handlebars, idler pulleys).
A few of the parts are missing from the "donor" transmission unit.. in particular, some bits of the double idler pulley control have been pulled presumably to fix up the main machine.


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## unknown1

A few parting shots of my Craftsman Drift Breaker now it's ready to go.
No lipstick or mascara.... just saved.

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7HIQRgc5mlV3OfS63


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## sidegrinder

Looks like I'm a little late to the party, nice job getting her going again! I have a pretty good assortment of parts for these machines including transmissions--Just in case anyone needs something in the future.


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## HCBPH

stuart80112 said:


> A few parting shots of my Craftsman Drift Breaker now it's ready to go.
> No lipstick or mascara.... just saved.
> 
> Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7HIQRgc5mlV3OfS63



That is a sweet looking machine there. Same as that 10 HP one I did the tread on but a whole lot better starting point. One other thing for peoples benefit - control cable. They are unobtainable today from what I've found (the one with the eyelet on 1 end and a S hook on the other). That's the one that controls the drive/auger control and if you split the controls like I did on that gray 10 HP unit I rebuilt, you'll want one and another handle to take care of that. I've found them NOS before but it's rare. Now there is an option, check out the chute control cable. Same basic cable with a loop on both ends and available today (expensive but available). Make yourself a small clevises to attach the cable to the control handle and you've back in business. In fact I have all the parts in the basement to split the drive and auger on the Searsasaurus like I did on the gray one. It's a nice upgrade if you like to control both the auger and drive separately.


Paul


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## sock-feet

Hopefully mine will look that good when I am done. I put the HF 13 hp on it if you haven't seen it.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...5289-restoration-10-hp-32-2nd-generation.html


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