# HS828 - Drive sprocket removal help - stuck 'keeper' pin



## gb387 (Oct 27, 2013)

I purchased a used tracked HS828 last year. I have completely gone through the auger, removed lubricated/anti-seized/new bearings/installed the proper shear pins I also removed and anti-seized one side of the track sprockets but the other side has a stuck pin. 

The pin that holds the drive sprocket on is stuck in the shaft I have WD40'd it many times and tried to drive it out with no luck. Obviously I can't heat the shaft up with a torch because of the plastic sprocket. Any thoughts on removing this stubborn pin? 

Some will ask why remove if there is nothing wrong, well.... Only reason I want it off is to clean up the shafts anti-seize whats needed and put it back together. I hate nothing more than broken equipment you have to fight tear down and fix during its needed season this is why I have went through the entire machine prior to the snow season, now if I do have a problem it should be easy to fix or at least tear into.


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## Dodge (Sep 13, 2014)

Perhaps you will have it out by now but no one posted an answer for you so here goes. Most pins wear loose by the constant action of forward and reversing so I can only suggest a method as I have not had a stuck one. However I have had lots of stubborn spring pins and the trick is to properly support the work piece.

Remove the track after backing off the tension. Using a die grinder or other suitable grinder grind off the head of the pin at the plastic hub but do not get it so hot that it melts the plastic. Buy or locate a 6 inch long x 1/4 black iron pipe nipple and cut off the threads at one end to a suitable length to slip over the opposite side of the pin and support the wheel hub and axle to a concrete floor. Place a 1/4 flat washer between the nipple and the hub. Now using a long pin punch you should be able to start drifting the frozen pin. 

I use 1/4 cap screws (bolts) to replace the 6 mm drive pins, it takes out a bit of the play. Select a screw length such that the unthreaded shank portion passes all the way through the hub. Then cut off some of the threaded part leaving just enough for a nylock nut and two or three flat washers such that the nut can be tightened slightly to the hub with at least one washer at either side.

Usually a 1/4 inch bolt will pass through the axle and plastic hub due to wear issues but if not use a 1/4 drill bit to adjust or if preferred stick with the original Honda pin.

You can view a picture of 1/4 inch cap screw used as a drive pin in my last picture in my post on replacing idler wheels and bushings on an HS80 here:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-idler-wheel-bushing-bearing-replacement.html


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