# First oil change?



## kellidotca (Dec 29, 2013)

So I ran across info on a different site that says you should do the first oil change on a new snowblower after 2 hours of operation.

Is that necessary? Urban legend?

I was hoping this would be a spring project since I don't have a garage to do this in.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If you're going to take care of it and expect it to last a good long time than giving it some TLC is necessary. Changing the oil on a new engine is a good idea to get anything out that may not have been properly cleaned out during assembly and to get out any metal associated with engine "break in".

Yes it's recommended, yes it's a good idea and I think it's worth it. I would pick up a quart of 5-30 full synthetic (guessing yours takes less but?) as synthetic to me seems to make an engine pull easier in below zero weather. Lots of argument on that and on what some say is wasting your money on synthetic but you spent big $$$ for a new blower why not blow an extra three or four bucks and get a great oil 
I'm out in the country in Wisconsin, it's cold and if my blower doesn't start, I don't go anywhere. It's why I always have two, just in case one doesn't start or something breaks. It's also why I treat it well and replace something before it breaks and preferably when it's warm


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## kellidotca (Dec 29, 2013)

I just watched a youtube video on how to do it.. looks pretty easy.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

You will different opinions all over in regards to the topic. The general idea is to break in your engine then change the oil. Personally, I use conventional oil to break in my engines the run synthetic from there on after


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## RattlerGUNZ (Nov 3, 2013)

5 - 10 hours then first oil change, my manual said after 5 hours of use then change oil, I used Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

5 hours after the start of your party. Is how it is done. Then u can use syntheic oil. But that still has to be changed at reg times. conventional before synthetic. so everything seats right.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

kellidotca said:


> I just watched a youtube video on how to do it.. looks pretty easy.


Depending on where it drains you might need to make a ramp to get it to clear the edge of the transmission housing or a wheel. I've used aluminum cans or tin cans and if you know it's under a quart of oil you can even save an empty plastic oil bottle and cut the top off it. You can use it as your small engine oil drain pan and it has a handy spout for emptying 
You can also go to a hardware store and pick up some pipe to route your drain away from obstacles if you choose. It's a nice cure to what can be a messy situation.
Like in the picture but if my machine that isn't the way I'd route it or leave it hanging. I'd use a 90 off the engine and let it go straight back and overhang an inch or two.









Otherwise, nothing to it. Warm the engine up, pull the drain plug, let it drain, replace plug and fill the engine to it's full mark with clean oil, done


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

When the motors are new I'd like to run them with as much load as possible in order to increase cylinder pressure which will in turn help properly seat the rings. 

I then dump the oil after no more than 5 hours of run time.


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