# 1974 Ariens 922006 HS40 won't run



## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

*1974 Ariens 922006 HS40 carb adjustment & leak?*

Hey guys, I just got this for $25, it's in good shape and I can start it but it won't run. If I pull the plug and poor a little fuel in and replace the plug it will fire. I also removed the carb/heat cover and shot some starter fluid into the carb and it fired. 

I drained the fuel (he said it was about 3-4 years old) and added fresh. I am learning these small engines but it seems like it isn't getting fuel. Any suggestions? Could it be something gummed up in the carb?


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

clean the carb ( get a kit) and fuel tank, i would also suggest replacing the fuel lines with corn juice resistant stuff if it hasnt been done.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:sigh: Good idea on replacing the fuel line. You can also pull it off at the carb and see if gas comes out. Might be the line is plugged.
It shouldn't have one but you might also check under the tank to see if there is a fuel shut off.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello Spencer. As already advised, your carb will need a good cleaning and it would be wise to purchase Tecumseh part number 631021b, which has a new bowl gasket, needle valve and valve seat. Below are some links that will help the process along with you taking plenty of pictures of the linkage and other disassembled pieces. "We all" think we can remember how it "should" go back together.:redface:

Tecumseh engine service manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf

Carb cleaning instructions-
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_632107.asp


One more thing. That black knob with the word push on it is the primer and has long since been replaced by primer bulbs. I normally leave the ignition off, close the choke, push and hold in the black knob while pulling the recoil once or twice to prime the engine. Release the black knob, turn the ignition on, throttle to fast and pull the recoil to start and slowly move the choke to fully open.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

These didn't appear in my last post, sorry.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

What everyone else said. 
Most likely gunky mystery goo has built up from today's old ethanol gasoline. Learning how to clean out carburetors in outdoor power equipment is a useful skill these days, and I'll encourage you to do so, but if you're near Salt Lake and want help, I'd be glad to. I'd even clean it for you.


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

Thank you all so much, I appreciate the warm welcome and advice. This would be my first taking apart and rebuilding of a carb. I see new carbs on the Internet for $15 - are those any good or should I just get a kit and rebuild?

If I do a rebuild what would be all the parts that i would need and where do you suggest to buy them from? 

I'm up in Ogden but make it to SLC about every month or two - if I really have a hard time getting it going, we may have to meet up 

Another thought I just had - I found the manual online and there appears to be an unlockable diff. Is that true for this model and if so how do I unlock it?


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

just get an aftermarket kit once you clean the carb you will have as much into a kit and labor as a new carb would cost you


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

The majority of the time I can disassemble, clean and reassemble a Tecumseh carburetor with no replacement parts. (no kit required) Sometimes I have to go the the parts store for a bowl gasket or an o-ring. I use a small Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner and a set of torch tip cleaners. Like this
If you can get an aftermarket carb at that price for your engine that's not a bad plan either. Can you locate the numbers off the engine itself? Something like this







Just to make sure you get the correct parts.


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

Here's a pic of the engine tag - should posted it earlier on the original post.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

HS40-55440C shows a Tecumseh 631535 Carburetor
Grunt..or anyone
Help me understand the plunger choke that covers the normal choke shutter? Why are their two choke's? You can see them both in the carb photo (attachment 4) in original post.
I've not worked on one of this vintage.


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

dbert said:


> HS40-55440C shows a Tecumseh 631535 Carburetor


So if I get a kit, would I do well to get a bowl or any other parts while I am at it? Or would it be better to take it off and post some pics for further advice?
Tecumseh Small Engine Model CA-631535 (CA631535) Carburetor Parts from RepairClinic.com


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

dbert - The plunger choke needs to be pressed covering up the intake of the carb so a vacuum is created when you simultaneously push in that plunger and turn the engine over (ignition off) and allow the vacuum to pull raw gas up into the carb similar to the way the primer bulb pushes gas into the carbs throat.

Then turn on the ignition and start.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Manfjourde - When cleaning or rebuilding a carb the old bowl is normally just cleaned and re-used.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> dbert - The plunger choke needs to be pressed covering up the intake of the carb so a vacuum is created when you simultaneously push in that plunger and turn the engine over (ignition off) and allow the vacuum to pull raw gas up into the carb similar to the way the primer bulb pushes gas into the carbs throat.
> 
> Then turn on the ignition and start.


I'm still not getting it. How is holding the plunger in, different from just moving the choke lever to closed. The only thing I can see would be there are still some small holes in the choke butterfly. So say full choke = 90%, but plunger press = 100% choke.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Regardless of the plunger choke operation, does anyone see a reason why this HS40 carburetor would not work? 
Amazon.com : Amdirect New Carburetor with Gasket For Tecumseh 631918 HS40 Engines : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Just replace the entire carburetor for $19 shipped and call it a day.
I cant tell if the lever for the normal choke is similar enough.


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

dbert said:


> Regardless of the plunger choke operation, does anyone see a reason why this HS40 carburetor would not work?
> Amazon.com : Amdirect New Carburetor with Gasket For Tecumseh 631918 HS40 Engines : Patio, Lawn & Garden
> Just replace the entire carburetor for $19 shipped and call it a day.
> I cant tell if the lever for the normal choke is similar enough.


That's my thought. Just slightly more than a kit and if it would work I can just install it and call it a day. Maybe rebuild the original later. Insight on this is appreciated.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I really do think the $19 one in my link above will work. I just looked at some pictures of your carb heater box on Scotts website. I was looking at the slot the choke lever travels thru. That's my only real concern. If it doesn't travel exactly, i've noticed some pics of this carb with a twist in the upright of the lever. In other words a bit of tweaking with a couple needle nose on that choke lever is all I can see being necessary. The plunger choke and bracket will need to be swapped over to the new carb.


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

dbert said:


> I really do think the $19 one in my link above will work. I just looked at some pictures of your carb heater box on Scotts website. I was looking at the slot the choke lever travels thru. That's my only real concern. If it doesn't travel exactly, i've noticed some pics of this carb with a twist in the upright of the lever. In other words a bit of tweaking with a couple needle nose on that choke lever is all I can see being necessary. The plunger choke and bracket will need to be swapped over to the new carb.


Well I ended up getting a kit from a local shop. I soaked the carb in lacquer thinner and scrubbed it with a tooth brush and brass bristle brush. I will try to update with pics later. 

It runs! It took two pulls and it fired up and ran nice. When I go lower than about 3/4 throttle it sputters and dies - what do I need to adjust to fix that?

Also, it is leaking at the bowl. I dried it off with a towel and tried to see where it came from but hard to tell. It almost looks like it's coming from the air intak(?) area like the bowl is flooded and dripping out. Any thoughts on what to check?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Did you check and adjust the float level before you put the bowl on ??

Did you blow out the carb after cleaning and use a small wire or torch tip cleaner to open up/chase the passages in the jet ??


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Did you check and adjust the float level before you put the bowl on ??
> 
> Did you blow out the carb after cleaning and use a small wire or torch tip cleaner to open up/chase the passages in the jet ??


I did the float using 11/64 drill bit for the float - is that right? 

I did blow it out. I got a new kit so a new jet - should I have cleaned it out?

I didn't change the Welch plugs - should I do that?


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

Good news! I was able to work on it last night and I am pretty sure I have it worked out. I pulled the carb and reset the float - it was a little higher than the 11/64" drill bit so I closed that gab. I blew out the jet holes and put it back. I got it to run and well enough to adjust the carb and it idle so smooth now. Also with the gas leaking out, it is weird, it would do it about 5 minutes after I shut it off but after adjusting the float and letting it sit overnight it had not filled the pan I put under it. I also drained the oil, flushed with diesel, and filled it with some 5w-20 too.

Even after running it requires a choke to start it - is that normal or anything to try to fix?

How high of RPMs should the engine be set at and how can I test that? I took a picture of how the linkage on the governor and throttle were set prior to taking it apart and by eyeing it I have it about there but the slightest adjustment affects it quite a bit.


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

How can I know engine RPMs and be sure it's set right?

Also what gear lube should be used for the auger gear case? I've seen differing opinions and I put in it and want to be sure.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Myself and several others own one of these cheapo electronic tachs.
Example
Edit: forgot to mention it just needs a twist around the plug wire to read the RPM. 

Any SAE 80W-90 should be fine in your auger gearbox. I think. The new stuff is a thin grease (vs this thicker oil), but gear lube is easy to find. Any autoparts, or even Walmart will have it. You wont need a whole lot, probably only need a tube this size in fact.
Example 2


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

Excellent, thank you.

Well we got 7" last night and I used this machine this morning, it did okay but when it was under load without the choke it bogged and died. I had to have the choke partially applied to work it without dying. What would I need to adjust to run it with no choke?


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Manfjourde said:


> Excellent, thank you.
> 
> Well we got 7" last night and I used this machine this morning, it did okay but when it was under load without the choke it bogged and died. I had to have the choke partially applied to work it without dying. What would I need to adjust to run it with no choke?


There is a spring loaded adjustment screw at the bottom center of the carb float bowl. It increases or decreases the fuel flow through the main jet. Probably turn it counter clockwise to richen.

The governor should open the throttle as the engine comes under extra load to keep engine speed steady. You will notice the engine sound change when this happens.

Good luck.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

How hard the engine (it's tiny by today's standards) is working can cause issues. As in bearings and bushings along the whole operation line. If the idler pulleys roll like velcro in a demonstration, and the bushings in the auger shaft ends are like the tip of your kids Elmers glue bottle, you'll inherit drag/friction that won't help the HS40. Just a thought. Needing choke signifies lack of fuel (not air), whether jet related or fuel supply, or crappy gaskets (allowing extra air).


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

Town said:


> There is a spring loaded adjustment screw at the bottom center of the carb float bowl. It increases or decreases the fuel flow through the main jet. Probably turn it counter clockwise to richen.


What he said!

Turn the screw on the bottom of the bowl about 1/8 turn counterclockwise and see if it helps. If it does but not enough, you can repeat that a few times. If the problem requires more than about 1/2 turn of the screw to correct, you may have an air leak somewhere.


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## pdesjr (Feb 7, 2015)

Run engine up to full throttle. Turn screw in bottom of bowl clockwise until the engine starts to stumble or loose speed. Turn back counterclockwise until it smooths out then an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn.Should be good to go


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

Thank you all so much! I got home from work to another 4" and turned the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn and it didn't need the choke or near as much to start it. I was able to go right through the 4" no problem throwing it 15' instead of about 8'. I did pray some fluid film in the chute which helped too. I even used it to tackle the end of the driveway, it could throw the chunks but the hard rubber tires are almost useless but this machine has still earned my respect. It is so much better than shoveling and will be a great backup to the toro power clear.


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## Lock45 (Feb 17, 2013)

Get a set of chains for your tires.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

Nice job getting it running and working for you. Having an old blower means you have to know a little about them to keep them running. You wouldn't have learned anything from swapping a new carb on.


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

A quick question on the governor. I took a picture of where the linkage was set prior to take it apart. I tried to get it back to host looked and when it is full throttle it "sounds" good for an engine this big. I got a cheap tach to check it. At the current full throttle it shows 6000 rpm which seems way off. When I lower the throttle to the 3400-3600 range on the tach it is more like it's putting along and won't throw snow worth a darn. The full throttle I have it at seems right but I don't wanna blow this little guy. Any thoughts? Would a local shop be able to check it or something more I can do to get a better idea?

Link to tach 
http://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Tachometer-Stroke-Outboard-Mercury/dp/B00ACDP6YU


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## Nconroy1 (Nov 18, 2015)

Do you have the tach at the correct setting?
6000 rpm will do damage very quickly.

Also consider an impeller mod to help throw further. Check ebay for kits or just do it yourself.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I think you are using the wrong cylinder selection. Even though your motor is a four cycle, you use the two cycle single cylinder setting on your tach. Small engines without a distributor have a wasted spark ignition system which has a spark every engine revolution and actually only uses one. Your engine is probably turning at 3000 rpm and not 6000.:smiley-confused013:


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

Grunt said:


> I think you are using the wrong cylinder selection. Even though your motor is a four cycle, you use the two cycle single cylinder setting on your tach. Small engines without a distributor have a wasted spark ignition system which has a spark every engine revolution and actually only uses one. Your engine is probably turning at 3000 rpm and not 6000.:smiley-confused013:


This was my first thought so thank you! I was thinking it was doubling the actual rpm for some reason. Thank you for explaining why. I will check it again using the 2 cycle and report. Thanks so much. Also does the max matter on 3400-3600 or should I just shoot for that range?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

The recommended max rpm's should be as close to 3600 as possible. A setting of 3400-3500 is good, anything over 3600 is pushing the limit and possibly testing the engines integrity.


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## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

Is this a dual shaft motor (crank and cam) or just a single shaft from the crank?


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Bob Jones said:


> Is this a dual shaft motor (crank and cam) or just a single shaft from the crank?


Bob this thread is six years old.


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## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Bob this thread is six years old.


LOL. I guess it is.


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## Bob Jones (Sep 15, 2020)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Bob this thread is six years old.


It was a long shot. I had been searching for hours for an answer. I figured these guys might know if they were still on the forum.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Hey... ya never know. I've responded to a few golden oldies too without realizing it.

Steady on. 🍻


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