# Losing power



## DennisCA (Feb 5, 2019)

Last night we had a snow storm so I brought out the Toro 828 and after a while (half hour I guess) it lost power, fiddling with the carburetor valve helped a little but nah I had to give up and stop for the night. There was a lot of wind and a lot of loose fine powdery snow, I dunno if snow is clogging something up perhaps. I filled it up with enough fuel beforehand.

It's been very fiddly, I have adjusted the governor so it won't run away like it used to, but it's still really near to doing so when having the throttle on max, but likewise if I pull back on the throttle it's like it doesn't have enough power when I engage the drive and auger so I am fiddling with the throttle a lot.

I'm not entirely sure what I should be looking at. Not a motor guy.

-I am thinking I'll look around the air intake and see if anything is clogging the intake.
-Perhaps check the spark plug
-Try the high grade alkylate gasoline (runs better, dissolves old varnish in carbs), been running local 95E gasoline otherwise which is regular gasoline with 10% ethanol.


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Try loosening the fuel cap and let it run. Vented fuel caps can become defective and result in a vacuum. If it runs ok, replace the cap.


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## DennisCA (Feb 5, 2019)

Tried opening the fuel cap (did it to see if it was running empty) but didn't notice any difference aside from a lot of gas jumping out from the vibrations of the motor.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Sounds like the idle mixture screw on the side needs adjusting. But now that you messed with the governor, you may have to readjust that as well. Google will give you the sequence.

Note also, all my 5 gallon gas cans get 2 oz. of Stabil, as well as 2 oz. of SeaFoam immediately into them when I fill them. This way, all my small equipment gets properly treated gas, including my 2 strokes. Bad (old, not treated gas will give you issues)


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## DennisCA (Feb 5, 2019)

I tried to adjust the idle mixture screw before I did the governor, that was last year. It behaved for a while after that. Today I replaced the gear oil in the auger gearbox and the motor oil, put carb cleaner in the carb and also in the cylinder and let it sit. Filled up new gas and it ran a lot better today, still feels weaker than it used to when it was new. It used to chew through snow like this without problems:










Running the carburetor valve on the middle setting, so not lean and not rich. It's a new carb, though chinese. I got the old original carb and been thinking of getting a carb rebuild kit for it.

Also I am noticing the right wheel isn't really doing anything to the drive anymore, shear pin I wonder? Haven't opened it yet.


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## AndyForWI (Jan 22, 2021)

I couple things that can cause loss of power from my personal experience.

1: Carb adjustment. Two months ago worked on a 36 year old 5hp Briggs and Stratton on a Craftsman snowblower. It had no power. It would only run on 1/2 choke and it could not handle snow. I cleaned the carb, re-adjusted the the main and idle jets and now it runs great. 

Start with cleaning / adjusting the carb.

2: Bad gas. Had a Cub Cadet lawn tractor that I could not keep running unless I spayed in starter fluid. Pulled the carb multiple times.... checked a zillion other things. Turned out I had some water in the fuel. Hooked up a different fuel source and it ran like it should.

3: Low compression. Compression testers are not too expensive and a great tool to check the state of your engine. When doing a compression test, do it with the engine warm, and the throttle full open. I believe you should have compression between 80-120 psi. 

4: Plugged carb. Once had an 150hp outboard that had a small piece of fuel line in th carb.

Good luck.
-andy


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

AndyForWI said:


> I couple things that can cause loss of power from my personal experience.
> 
> 1: Carb adjustment. Two months ago worked on a 36 year old 5hp Briggs and Stratton on a Craftsman snowblower. It had no power. It would only run on 1/2 choke and it could not handle snow. I cleaned the carb, re-adjusted the the main and idle jets and now it runs great.
> 
> ...


All great advice except one caveat. Most all small engines have what is called compression release so that they can start easier. This releases some pressure durring the compression stroke. Once it is running the compression release does not operate. Therefore a compression tester will give an artificially LOW reading. A leak down test is more informative but requires more expensive equipment. You can find Youtube videos on leak down testing. I would bet the problem lies in the carberator and possibly the gas quallity and governor adjustments may need to be revisited.

I'm not sure what the OP means by right wheel? Perhaps he means auger rake? If so, yes check the shear bolts. Or Drive wheel? Check the key or pin that locks it to the axle.


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## AndyForWI (Jan 22, 2021)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> All great advice except one caveat. Most all small engines have what is called compression release so that they can start easier. This releases some pressure durring the compression stroke. Once it is running the compression release does not operate. Therefore a compression tester will give an artificially LOW reading. A leak down test is more informative but requires more expensive equipment. You can find Youtube videos on leak down testing. I would bet the problem lies in the carberator and possibly the gas quallity and governor adjustments may need to be revisited.


Thanks for the note about *compression release*. I had never heard of that before. That would explain when I did a compression check on my 12hp Tecumseh with Overhead valves. I was only getting about 35psi when I used the pull starter, but 95psi when I used the electric start.

I also agree that the carburetor is the most likely prospect for the lack of power.
-andy


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

My understanding is that the use of pull-cord start activates the compression release. Electric start does not (AFAIK) . . . as I get 'full' compression when testing with electric start (120 - 160 psi on various blower engines.

Here is a video that I made of the valve action, showing the compression release (looks like a partial valve stroke).


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

With higher RPM's the centrtifical force from he higher speeds moves the compression release mechanism out out the picture and it does nothing. The electric start in your case spins the engine fast enough for this to happen.
Let us know how you make out after addressing the carb.


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## DennisCA (Feb 5, 2019)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> I'm not sure what the OP means by right wheel? Perhaps he means auger rake? If so, yes check the shear bolts. Or Drive wheel? Check the key or pin that locks it to the axle.


The drive wheel, I noticed the machine pulling to the right all the time when using it and when it got stuck I noticed the right hand wheel not moving but the left one was. From what I can see everything on the inside was normal and the pin that locks it to the axle was on correctly.

I'll have a look at the carb today. Also getting a new spark plug.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

DennisCA said:


> The drive wheel, I noticed the machine pulling to the right all the time when using it and when it got stuck I noticed the right hand wheel not moving but the left one was. From what I can see everything on the inside was normal and the pin that locks it to the axle was on correctly.
> 
> I'll have a look at the carb today. Also getting a new spark plug.


Does it have power steering or a differential? Check the air presssure in the tires and make sure they are the same.


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## DennisCA (Feb 5, 2019)

Replaced the spark plug (Champion RJ19LM was in stock at the local parts dealer) and fiddled with the carburetor and today it worked pretty well, new gasoline as well. Feels like I got it in the bag for now


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## DennisCA (Feb 5, 2019)

Oh yes one of the tires had low pressure, that fixed the issue with the drive. Chewed through this as a test and no problems


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