# Gear speed



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

I have a 2019 24” platinum sho. (Model # 921050) In the storm we had here in Wisconsin last weekend (12”), I wished I had a slightly slower 1st gear. 6 th gear is so fast I can’t really keep up with the machine. Is there any way to adjust the walking speed to slow it down a little? My machine handles the snow load very well, but it would be nice to have a slower 1st gear for EOD crud etc.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

this is how you do it except you want to spin the adjuster the opposite way that this guy spins it to shorten the rod.. it is most likely guys like this adjusting your machine so it drives too fast in 1st gear and way too fast in 6th.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Adjusting the speed is a trade off. If you slow down the forward speeds you will speed up the reverse speeds. Think of it like a teeter totter. As you adjust one side the other side moves too. It's directly linear.


.


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

I have the Deluxe 28 sho. To get the 1st gear as slow as possible, first disconnect the linkage adjuster down at the drive lever at bottom rear of snowblower.
Lift drive lever up until friction disc hits the reverse safety stop.
Continue holding lever against reverse stop while adjusting linkage to fit the lever, with selector in R2 position.
This gives you the fastest possible reverse gear, and the slowest possible 1st gear.
I adjusted mine this way, and 1st gear was still too fast for EOD pile.
Would have to continually feather drive engagement to keep it from bogging, and bucket climbing.
I did what someone else on these forums suggested, and dremeled an extra slot between 1st and R1 on the dash, for a "creeper gear".
This "creeper gear is so slow, the wheels just crawl along. I can now run the creeper gear into the EOD pile with no bogging, and no bucket climbing at all!
I do 11 driveways, all with EOD piles, and never have to wrestle with the machine anymore. Best mod I have ever done.


----------



## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I found that 1st gear was faster than I liked on my Ariens 28 SHO, especially for EOD piles and deep snow.
I made the adjustment on the threaded rod you indicate so the drive wheel was just maxing out on the hex shaft bump stop when in R2. I still found 1st gear was faster than I liked.
My solution was to clamp the lever in place between the 1st forward and 1st reverse notches and find the desired speed by adjusting the clamp left or right. Mark the position and cut a new slot in the control panel. see attached photo.

Not sure if the Platimum series has the same control panel, but worked great on mine, also helps with the machine climbing when going through the EOD.

Here is that old thread:








Slowing down a Platinum 24 SHO


There have been very few opportunities so far this season to put my new machine (921050) through its paces, but one thing I did notice when tackling the EOD was even 1st gear seemed a bit faster than I wanted especially compared with my old Honda HS828 where you could have it crawl as slow as...




www.snowblowerforum.com


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

I think I have you to thank for this Ziggy 65. I could not think of the thread I saw, but it was yours.
Absolutely the best thing I have ever done! I think a 10 year old could do the EOD piles with this creeper gear!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

But one thing to remember is that when you get that machine creeping it's because the friction wheel is nearly at the center of the disc that drives it. It would be like always turning your car as sharp as you can to make a corner. More wear on your car tires. I haven't a clue how much more wear it might cause and if your friction disc is cheap and easy to change it doesn't really matter. But if you have to pay $$$ like the Deere, Yamaha, ... disc or some others I'd rethink that option on a machine I intended to hang onto for some time. I can live with taking less than a full width of bucket when my 1st isn't slow enough. Just a thought.


.


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

I would love to pull the cotter pin from the hex shaft to remove the reverse safety stop, to make a 3rd reverse gear, but there is no room on the dash to create a 3rd reverse gear. R2 is too slow in my opinion,
if I have to keep reversing 30 or so feet, to blow snow into one spot.


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> But one thing to remember is that when you get that machine creeping it's because the friction wheel is nearly at the center of the disc that drives it. It would be like always turning your car as sharp as you can to make a corner. More wear on your car tires. I haven't a clue how much more wear it might cause and if your friction disc is cheap and easy to change it doesn't really matter. But if you have to pay $$$ like the Deere, Yamaha, ... disc or some others I'd rethink that option on a machine I intended to hang onto for some time. I can live with taking less than a full width of bucket when my 1st isn't slow enough. Just a thought.
> 
> 
> .


I have thought of that, but so far, so good. Cant imagine it is any harder on frictin disc, than continual engagement, and disengagement to keep from bogging and lifting.


----------



## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> But one thing to remember is that when you get that machine creeping it's because the friction wheel is nearly at the center of the disc that drives it. It would be like always turning your car as sharp as you can to make a corner. More wear on your car tires. I haven't a clue how much more wear it might cause and if your friction disc is cheap and easy to change it doesn't really matter. But if you have to pay $$$ like the Deere, Yamaha, ... disc or some others I'd rethink that option on a machine I intended to hang onto for some time. I can live with taking less than a full width of bucket when my 1st isn't slow enough. Just a thought.
> 
> 
> .


So far (all most 2 seasons) it doesn't seem to have increased disc wear. It is about the same speed as the slowest reverse gear, and wheel makes contact about same distance from center of friction plate as R1, but on the opposite side, if you get what I mean.

I really only use this added gear when the factory F1 is too fast for the machine to keep up or if machine starts to ride up, such as large dense EOD. It eliminates having to be on and off the drive lever when tackling really deep and dense snow (EOD and compacted roof snow).

I have used an Ariens 10000 series since I was a boy (it had been my main machine up until I bought the SHO). The extra gear I added is about the same speed as my 10000 series machine's 1st gear. 

Many find the factory 1st gear slow enough, so no need for this mod.


----------



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Thanks for the replies, these are some great suggestions. I think I’ll try adjusting the rod first. If that doesn’t slow her down enough, I’ll wait until after 3 years to add a notch if I have to. I’m afraid if I do it before then, as I could have warranty issues if I need a repair. I wonder why the factory doesn’t add another notch? Seems like it adds to the performance and functionality of the machine with very little expense. Seems like a win win?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

Smokie1 said:


> Thanks for the replies, these are some great suggestions. I think I’ll try adjusting the rod first. If that doesn’t slow her down enough, I’ll wait until after 3 years to add a notch if I have to. I’m afraid if I do it before then, as I could have warranty issues if I need a repair. I wonder why the factory doesn’t add another notch? Seems like it adds to the performance and functionality of the machine with very little expense. Seems like a win win?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Smokie, you can still make 1st gear as slow as you want, without notching the dash. 
Just position the lever into 1st gear, and adjust the linkage to make it as slow as you want it. However you will probably lose R2, because of the stop on the friction disc shaft. That is what happened to me with mine.
My old MTD doesnt have that safety stop, so I was able to make it a creeper gear in 1st gear, and still have R2.


----------



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Thanks Bricklayer! Good point...It’s supposed to be colder than a well diggers you know what this weekend here. I’ll move my truck out of the garage and give it a try. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SNOWJOE (Nov 18, 2018)

More snow Sunday, like the idea of a notch between 1st and R-1, but if you notice it, you can just try to position the lever in between the 2 speeds and the spring tension will hold it where you want it without a notch..Will see what happens after she snows and how slow it will creep....


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

SNOWJOE said:


> More snow Sunday, like the idea of a notch between 1st and R-1, but if you notice it, you can just try to position the lever in between the 2 speeds and the spring tension will hold it where you want it without a notch..Will see what happens after she snows and how slow it will creep....


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

You definitely need to notch the dash. You can hold the lever between 1st and R1, but as soon as you engage the drive lever, there is quite a bit of side pressure on the shift lever. 
You can clamp it temporarily, to see where you need to notch it.


----------



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Question bricklayer as it sounds you are framiliar with the procedure. If I put the machine in R2, and rotate the shaft counterclockwise until it stops. Will that give me the slowest 1st gear without loosing R2?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

Smokie1 said:


> Question bricklayer as it sounds you are framiliar with the procedure. If I put the machine in R2, and rotate the shaft counterclockwise until it stops. Will that give me the slowest 1st gear without loosing R2?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes. Put shift lever in R2 slot on dash. Reach down at linkage adjustment and remove cotter pin. While holding the lever that goes into the belly of machine against the reverse stop, screw linkage nut to line up with the hole in the lever.
This will give you the Fastest R2, and slowest F1 possible without notching dash.


----------



## Bricklayer (Dec 29, 2020)

This is a video that shows exactly what I am talking about.


----------



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Thanks... if it ever warms up enough for me to work with my hands I’ll give it a shot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Video is great...love YouTube...Thanks again Bricklayer!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

