# How to remove and save stickers to re-use later....??



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I might be getting the front section of one of my Yamaha YS828s sandblasted and powder coated in the next few days.
Is there a way that I could remove and save the stickers to be reused after the powdercoating process.....? :icon_scratch:


----------



## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I've had better luck double taping them and showing whoever is blasting you want to save them than trying to heat and remove. Ariens model/serial stickers and a few warning type ones that are hard to find. That was repainted, not powder coat, so disregard. I have tried a heat gun and careful picking, then place them on wax paper, but about 50/50 shot.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thanks jt, 
I was just reading some info about using a heat gun and a sharp blade. 
I think I have not much to loose by trying it since they will get destroyed in the sandblasting pocess, or if they get taped before blasting, powder coating will not stick on the stickers, or if so the stickers will burn off in the heat process (about 400 degrees F is my understanding)and it would look horrible (they will probably refuse to do it with the stickers on).


----------



## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

hsblowersfan said:


> Thanks jt,
> I was just reading some info about using a heat gun and a sharp blade.
> I think I have not much to loose by trying it since they will get destroyed in the sandblasting pocess, or if they get taped before blasting, powder coating will not stick on the stickers, or if so the stickers will burn off in the heat process (about 400 degrees F is my understanding)and it would look horrible (they will probably refuse to do it with the stickers on).


I wonder if you could photograph them, the have them printed on sticky back film decals to reapply after the paint is done. Maybe one of those places that does business lettering for cars and trucks is worth a call.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thanks skutflut,
There is a company that makes them Reproduction Snowblower Decals - Yamaha - Vintage Reproductions (only offers one sticker for Yamaha blowers), I could possibly get them made (by them as well) but it may turn expensive as there are more than a few stickers.
We'll see how it goes.


----------



## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

hsblowersfan said:


> Thanks skutflut,
> There is a company that makes them Reproduction Snowblower Decals - Yamaha - Vintage Reproductions (only offers one sticker for Yamaha blowers), I could possibly get them made (by them as well) but it may turn expensive as there are more than a few stickers.
> We'll see how it goes.


Just took a look at that site, and they seem to have a nice product. 5 bucks a sticker is a bit steep, but you might find them cheaper elsewhere. They seem to have a few kits with all the stickers for Ariens for 50-60 bucks. They do have all the colours, and they say there is no setup charge, so when you think about it, 5 or 6 bucks for a 1 off is pretty reasonable. Somebody has to process each sticker, print it, cut it. 

I guess its a matter of how important it is to keep it original. I don't think you will ever get the old ones off in one piece, let alone put them back on after the paint job. Kind of like trying to reuse an old bandaid....


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

skutflut said:


> I guess its a matter of how important it is to keep it original. I don't think you will ever get the old ones off in one piece, let alone put them back on after the paint job. Kind of like trying to reuse an old bandaid....


If not succesful on removal I may price the replacements and if too expensive I may just leave it without any stickers (newer blowers have less stickers than older models anyways, JMHO)


----------



## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

hsblowersfan said:


> If not succesful on removal I may price the replacements and if too expensive I may just leave it without any stickers (newer blowers have less stickers than older models anyways, JMHO)


I suggest that you take high resolution photos of the originals before trying to remove them, so if you decide to take the plunge you will have the images available for the sticker guy to reproduce. 

I am looking at some of those woodpecker with a cigar stickers (Thrush Muffler) for the bucket sides of mine. :biggrin:


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Removed 3 stickers from the chute using a heat gun, they came out in one piece fairly easy, the only issue is that the glue stayed on the chute. So I will have to figure how to reglue them later (any ideas.....?).
I have only one more sticker to remove from the auger housing.


----------



## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

hsblowersfan said:


> Removed 3 stickers from the chute using a heat gun, they came out in one piece fairly easy, the only issue is that the glue stayed on the chute. So I will have to figure how to reglue them later (any ideas.....?).
> I have only one more sticker to remove from the auger housing.


3M makes a stray on adhesive that might work. You would spray it on the sticker backs, then apply to the paint. I think th stuff is #70 as opposed to #90 which Is much more aggressive. I would suggest a test before committing.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thanks skutflut.
I'll research that.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

After you get them on you could try some kind of clear coat or varnish over them. Not sure how much that would stand out on the powder coating or if it will even stick well.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Shryp said:


> After you get them on you could try some kind of clear coat or varnish over them. Not sure how much that would stand out on the powder coating or if it will even stick well.


Thanks Shryp, I was actually thinking about researching a heavy duty double sided clear tape.
I have time as the powder coating place said 7-10 days turn around.


----------



## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

This is the best way I've seen yet:


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Thanks 94EG8, do you know if someone sells the tool?


----------



## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

hsblowersfan said:


> Thanks 94EG8, do you know if someone sells the tool?


You'd have to make your own.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> You'd have to make your own.


Thanks 94EG8,
That's what the video implied, I was hoping it was available somewhere.


----------



## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

Personally, I would go with the Repro Sticker Route if it was a option. HSBlowersfan, I've think I've seen you post what the cost of a HS versus HSS series parts are. Have you looked into what a OE decal might cost.

I've restored two 621. My OCD did everything, down to OE decals. If memory recalls, it was NOT alot of money....even a couple big decals, I was actually sticker shocked that it was actually cheaper than what I was prepared to pay when I bought them. 

Decal reproduction information


----------



## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

HS -

Just curious. Is this a powdercoater you have worked with ? Aka, do you have experience with his workmanship.

2 things to note. Have him plug the thread holes and also make sure he ~sprays lightly~ where bearings/bearing cups will fit

You don't want to create ~cracks~ in your new PC job if you need to thread into powdercoated metal.....

The same goes for areas where you actually need to ~fit~ something and the OD/IF of the area is now too tight due to film thickness.

Most of the better powdercoaters know this. Some, well, they just sandblast and powdercoat away. The last thing you want it too thick of a film, you end up pressing too tight on the coating since it won't fit, and creating cracks/scratches into the film just to get it to properly fit....


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

mobiledynamics said:


> Personally, I would go with the Repro Sticker Route if it was a option. HSBlowersfan, I've think I've seen you post what the cost of a HS versus HSS series parts are. Have you looked into what a OE decal might cost.
> 
> I've restored two 621. My OCD did everything, down to OE decals. If memory recalls, it was NOT alot of money....even a couple big decals, I was actually sticker shocked that it was actually cheaper than what I was prepared to pay when I bought them.
> 
> Decal reproduction information


Thanks MD,
I was able to remove the old stickers in one piece. I may reglue them back with double sided clear tape. (I may price the stickers fabrication anyways)


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

mobiledynamics said:


> HS -
> Just curious. Is this a powdercoater you have worked with ? Aka, do you have experience with his workmanship.
> 2 things to note. Have him plug the thread holes and also make sure he ~sprays lightly~ where bearings/bearing cups will fit
> You don't want to create ~cracks~ in your new PC job if you need to thread into powdercoated metal.....
> ...


Thanks for the advice MD,
This is my first time using powder coating services.
I will talk to him about plugging the threaded holes.
The bearing holders are separate caps that bolt on to the auger housing (they are not getting the treatment).
The only area thay may have an tight fit issue could be the chuter base to the chuter (although it seemed to have plenty of clearance).
This is my first time going that route and if anything should've not been done that way or if something goes wrong, I'll find out and correct it as needed on my next project (hopefuly there will be a next one going this route ).


----------



## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

HS -

I would give him some of the advice above if you are calling him about plugging/covering the threaded portion so that don't get powder in the bearing cup area.

I presume the bearing does sit on a bearing cup, the entire assembly does somewhat sit into a small pocket-recess, if they have incorporated that onto the bucket. Just advise him to not go too thick on the film if this area....

Another tidbit. Too thick is never a good thing imo. Hard to explain into words, but after doing PC for awhile, you can tell if the coat is ~perfect~ or if it's too thick. Too thick actually more easier to chip, FWIW.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

mobiledynamics said:


> HS -
> I would give him some of the advice above if you are calling him about plugging/covering the threaded portion so that don't get powder in the bearing cup area.
> I presume the bearing does sit on a bearing cup, the entire assembly does somewhat sit into a small pocket-recess, if they have incorporated that onto the bucket. Just advise him to not go too thick on the film if this area....
> Another tidbit. Too thick is never a good thing imo. Hard to explain into words, but after doing PC for awhile, you can tell if the coat is ~perfect~ or if it's too thick. Too thick actually more easier to chip, FWIW.


Thanks MD,
The auger housing areas where the augers and impeller bearing sit is flat (the recessed area is on the bearing holders that are not getting PC).
I will contact them tomorrow about plugging the threaded holes and see what he tells me about the thickness of the coat.


----------



## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

hsblowersfan said:


> Thanks MD,
> I was able to remove the old stickers in one piece. I may reglue them back with double sided clear tape. (I may price the stickers fabrication anyways)


I wouldn't use carpet style double stick tape as it's too thick and your stickers will have a raised edge. I've used 3M Super77 spray adhesive on a lot of graphic applications, but on some automotive and motorcycle use, it doesn't seem to hold up as well as I would like, especially when gas and solvents are used around it.

I'm really interested in reproducing decals and emblems and bonding them correctly. It's been hard finding production sources for custom work that have reasonable cost small run/quantity prices. I can usually handle the graphic side, its the production side that's hard to find good info on.

The vintage reproductions site is a good one, and even though they offer free layout services, I bet the price per decal/sticker is super high for low quantities.

...Always looking though. Some 3M bonding info I came across: 

"Oily or powder coated metals...not so tough anymore

In addition to bonding LSE plastics, 3M™ Laminating Adhesive 300LSE Products bonds plastic nameplates, metal rating plates, ...graphic overlays and appliqués, film labels, and more to lightly oiled metal without surface preparation.

Bonding to powder-coated metal

Powder coating is applied electrostatically to metal and heat-cured to form a protective and decorative layer that's tougher than conventional liquid paint. Metals such as aluminum or stainless steel are high surface energy (Figure 2 above), but once the metal is powder coated, you will be bonding to a low surface energy "skin". You have three 3M choices in pressure sensitive adhesives depending on how much holding power you want. For bonding lighter weight materials to powder coated metal, you've already read above about 3M™ Laminating Adhesive 300LSE and 3M™ Quick Bonding Adhesive 360 Products."

3M Industrial Solutions Technical & News ArticlesÂ*Easier Bonding for the Tough Combinations


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

+1 on the 3M decal spray adhesive. When I worked at a few dealerships in a past life we used it on a regular basis to reapply various decals and logos.
I've used this guy before and his decals are fantastic but he does require high resolution pics and dimensions to reproduce decals.Someone in an earlier post suggested doing this; taking good pics.

Ralph can do it. 
http://www.rggraphix.com/


----------



## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Thanks for the source Joe...from another Joe.


----------



## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

hsblowersfan said:


> Thanks 94EG8, do you know if someone sells the tool?


I've used bone folders for years now and I came across a bookbinder who sells teflon versions here: Teflon Tools – Dennis Ruud

The Splitting Knife [$27.50] and Microspatula [$22.00] look most interesting to me. A lot of dough, but if you do enough re-badging, could be worth the investment.

For decal/sticker re-work, my guess is you would probably have to hone or sand at least one edge on each of these teflon tools to a thinner line as most paper, even synthetic is thicker than a lot of sticker films.

I have a traditional bone folder [probably from a cow bone] that I could try on a decal (Rats, I just peeled off the last of my warning stickers on my 828...wish I would have read this post first), but I should have something else around to try it on.

My experience has been I can get 'em off pretty decent, but they tend to curl right up, or at least the edges curl. Makes it mighty hard to lay it flat for re-gluing.


----------



## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> This is the best way I've seen yet:


Thanks too 94EG8


----------

