# Compression on the old 6/7 hp 10,000 series



## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

So I have two old blowers that run pretty well. However they have almost no compression. one is 60 lbs the other like 75#'s. My dealer told me that they were designed for leaded gas and since there is no lead now to add a little 2 stroke oil to lubricate the top end. Ive been running them on 100/1 synthetic 93 octane. Will a valve job increase me compression and running reliablility? How hard is it? I have never oped up one of the but I do rebuild chainsaws from the cases up. Any thoughts of wisdom. They do die in the heavy snow and I want to power through that crap. The one with the lower compression actually runs better than the higher one but I have to keep playing with the carb on the bigger one to keep it running sometimes. They also both burn a dipstick oil on every tank from full to add. Thanks for the help!!!!


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

Have you tried checking the valve clearance? That's a very easy first step.

There's a manual here that shows you how to do it: http://www.asos1.com/tecumseh4hp/Tecumseh.pdf


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*Thanks!!*

Awesome!!! I cant wait to dig into it!


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

put a predator 212cc on them and be done with them. those engines are not worth fixing beyond carburetor issues, you will spend a lot of time repairing internal issues


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*??*

So if I'm reading this right the valve clearance should be .oo4 to .008 at TDC?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

If that's an H60, specs are 0.008" to 0.012".

lap the valves and throw-on a new head gasket and it will run like new. It's definitely worth the minimal effort/expense that it requires. I've done 4 (soon to be 5) L-heads this winter.

While you're ordering you may also need breather gaskets & the intake-pipe gasket as well.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

What is "lapping the valves"? Also I dont see anyway to adjust "valve lash", easy to do on a car, but I dont see anyway to adjust. Thanks!!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Redliner67 said:


> What is "lapping the valves"? Also I dont see anyway to adjust "valve lash", easy to do on a car, but I dont see anyway to adjust. Thanks!!


Ah, there are a few youtube videos on it...very simple. 

Grab a lapping tool...basically a dowel-rod with 2 different sized suction cups on each-end...you want the small one. And grab some lapping compound. Remove the valve, smear some lapping compound on the valve-seat area of the valve...being careful not to get any on the valve stem (or anywhere near the cylinder/piston!) then spin the valve with the lapping tool like you're trying to start a fire. It's important to clean-off all of the lapping compound when you've finished...I try to get as much of it up with dry rags as possible, then use a solvent on a rag to remove the remaining.

If you don't have enough valve clearance, you may need to remove some material from the bottom of the valve stem before lapping. I always adjust clearance 1st (I use emery paper and cutting oil) and shoot for +0.001" above the middle of the spec range (so for 0.008-0.012, I shoot for 0.011...then lap to 0.010").


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Redliner67 said:


> So I have two old blowers that run pretty well. However they have almost no compression. one is 60 lbs the other like 75#'s. .....
> The one with the lower compression actually runs better than the higher one but I have to keep playing with the carb on the bigger one to keep it running sometimes. They also both burn a dipstick oil on every tank from full to add. Thanks for the help!!!!


Based upon the very high oil consumption your engines are worn out. The worn piston rings are likely the cause of low compression and poor engine performance. You can check this by putting a little engine oil into the spark plug hole to temporarily seal the piston and checking the compression.

Also check for oil at the crankcase breather pipe. A worn engine will allow engine combustion pressure to leak past the worn cylinder bore, piston and rings to pressurize the crankcase. This blow-by will force oil out the breather and lead to high oil consumption.

You will probably need to rebuild the engines or re-power with new engines.

Good luck.


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## Tachead (Feb 19, 2015)

I would not try to adjust the valve clearance and definitely do not try to lap the valves if you are not an experienced mechanic with the knowledge and experience working on 4-stroke motors. I cant tell you how many times I have seen engines ruined or had to fix backyard cowboys eff ups during my many years as a professional mechanic. Let someone fix it who knows what they are doing and is confident at it or just order a new engine.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

Tachead, what do I have to lose? Answer = nothing


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

New motor is not an option. I'd rather kiss my sister. I can fix anything. I was going Harley transmissions when I was 17 I think I can handle a B & S just never did one is all. I built 6 Stihl saws this winter from the cases up and dozens of sled motors. I am unemployed, I have the time, I'll spend 50$ on parts and fix it with all your good folks help! Thanks!!!!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Tachead said:


> I would not try to adjust the valve clearance and definitely do not try to lap the valves if you are not an experienced mechanic with the knowledge and experience working on 4-stroke motors. I cant tell you how many times I have seen engines ruined or had to fix backyard cowboys eff ups during my many years as a professional mechanic. Let someone fix it who knows what they are doing and is confident at it or just order a new engine.


If the engine is at the point of replacing, he has absolutely nothing to lose by trying and learning a few things along the way. There are plenty of youtube videos and enough experience on this forum to help with all aspects of an engine rebuild. At some point it may be cost prohibitive to buy and replace every part, but I would encourage him to try and repair the OLD engine for the experience and confidence gained. We all have to or had to start somewhere. 

We were typing at the same time. I see that you are more than qualified to do the repairs and look forward to your progress. This is a Briggs motor? If you post the model and spec number, I may have a service manual link to help you.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Town picked up on the point of oil consumption. 

A leakdown test would be a good thing to do before breaking it down. 

Other things that can lead to oil loss through the breather are are overrevving (chk your rpms) & any breaks in crankcase sealing (like a cracked filler tube.)


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Town picked up on the point of oil consumption.
> 
> A leakdown test would be a good thing to do before breaking it down.
> 
> Other things that can lead to oil loss through the breather are are overrevving (chk your rpms) & any breaks in crankcase sealing (like a cracked filler tube.)


A leakdown test is the best way to determine cylinder sealing. The compression release will lower the psi numbers so not a true indication.

There seems to be two camps here, fix the original engine, or replace with china made product. 

I'm all for repair rather than replace.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

Redliner67 said:


> So I have two old blowers that run pretty well. However they have almost no compression. one is 60 lbs the other like 75#'s. My dealer told me that they were designed for leaded gas and since there is no lead now to add a little 2 stroke oil to lubricate the top end. Ive been running them on 100/1 synthetic 93 octane. Will a valve job increase me compression and running reliablility? How hard is it? I have never oped up one of the but I do rebuild chainsaws from the cases up. Any thoughts of wisdom. They do die in the heavy snow and I want to power through that crap. The one with the lower compression actually runs better than the higher one but I have to keep playing with the carb on the bigger one to keep it running sometimes. They also both burn a dipstick oil on every tank from full to add. Thanks for the help!!!!



sounds like the rings more than a valve job. but a valve job would help too.

just pull the piston/rod, hone the bore, put new rings on, then run it in, the compression should go up

these don't have a lot of compression to begin with, they are low compression engines, made to start with a pull rope, because of that they can't put the same compression in as a 2-stroke. it would rip the rope from your hand and break the rope. a 2-stroke basically leaks a lot of compression by design, and doesn't become efficient until very high rpm. so it can get away with a higher static compression and still be able to pull start it.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I agree with classiccat and scrappy. A leak down test would be the best diagnostic tool in your situation. As greatwhitebuffalo stated, these engines are not high compression and 60 to 80 psi compression is not a bad reading. The oil consumption is a concern and could be caused by worn rings, blocked drain hole behind the breather cover, worn valve guides or the oil level to high.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

I stated Briggs and I should have stated Tecumpsah. my bad. Also I'm running standard 30 wt in the cold and I guess I should be running 5/30 wt. These machines are both throwing snow 40' so were really not in bad shape to begin with, really,.. Just asking about valves, lets keep it simple. I'm not putting a china throw on these things, I like old stuff. I drive a rust free mint 86 Chevy K20 4X that will blow away most new trucks out there. I love the 7/24 cause it fits through both my doors and I can wheel it into my 80 degree shop and make it right. Thanks for all the help!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> I stated Briggs and I should have stated Tecumpsah.


 Here is a link to the Tecumseh flat head manual, if you don't have it.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

Hey thanks for that. Im going through the videos now, seems straight forward enough. Winds up I just got a call I have to do a 377 ski safari motor tomorrow so that will slow me down a bit but no snow in the 10 day forecast and I still have one runner even if I dissemble the other. Thanks for all the help everyone its really appreciated!!


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

for shets and giggles i just pulled the plug on the 7 hp motor and poured some mm oil in there. I pulled it over several times. I carefully put a screwdriver in at an angle to see if I could feel the valves as I pulled it over. The intake valve rose about 1/4" while the exhaust only rose about an 1/8". I think the exhaust valve is either carboned up, worn spring or somehow gummed up. Looks like a five miniute job to dig into that,...


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*Everybody likes pics right?*

Ok, got my valves lapped. All that mm oil sitting in there overnight everything came apart pretty slick. One unsettling thin is the high amount of detonation in the piston head and the head by the exhaust. The bore is perfectly smooth. Anyway heres some pics, get the flamethrower out, I'm all ears.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

that engine looks like its overheated before, almost like the aluminums been melted


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Wow, thank you for posting the pics. I'd never seen what pre-detonation does to an engine


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

No way is that detonation for a single cylinder engine. It would have overheated the piston and scored the cyl wall and then stalled before that amount of damage.


More likely it ingested some dirt or sand.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

the kid i bought it from had it held together by nails and every different wrong type of screw holding the shroud together. You thin he might have dropped a screw in there and just ran it until finally the "bad noise" magicly went away. If I counted the divots i bet it wouldnt have been more than 30 secs of banging before it went away? Just a thought,..


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*parts ordered*

ordered all new gaskets and new carb, a little over 50$. should have it back together before next weekend! I think she'll run like a deer for another 40 years


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Good progress Red!!!!

Smooth bore is really encouraging (actually a little surprising seeing the condition of that piston). Did you get a chance to do a leakdown test?


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## suspicionofignorance2 (Jan 26, 2014)

New gaskets and carb ---won't stop the oil burning...nor will the valve lapping...Must be a blue smoke machine when working...A quick filing down the overall length of the exhaust valve stem [to achieve clearance] may be all that's needed to restore sufficient compression for more power...Live with the oil burning problem...and avoid spending any more $$ on it...IMO


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## Redliner (Feb 26, 2014)

*Thanks!*

Leakdown test?? No clue,...

Nope no blue smole, no smoke at all, a puff on startup. So would i file the bottom of the valvestem before reassembly?? I have to go check gap now


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*Whoops*

Used my old login, suprised it worked,.. lol


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*just checked*

Exhaust is 10, intake is 12, I want to go the other way right? More grinding???


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

Has anybody increased the main jet size or moved the govenor rod hole or increased the pulley on the shaft for more speed?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> Has anybody increased the main jet size or moved the governor rod hole or increased the pulley on the shaft for more speed?


Playing with the governor is the ONE thing you do not want to do. These older engines will run forever if the rpm's are maintained at 3600 or less. If you have a tach, throw it on and adjust the speed as necessary.

Except for some of the newer Honda clone engines, the jets on the older motors were optimized for performance and reliability.

Some people here have increased the size of the engine pulleys to gain more auger and impeller speed at the expense of losing some torque when going through deep snow. Adding an impeller kit is a sure way to increase throwing distance in powder and slushy snow.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> Exhaust is 10, intake is 12, I want to go the other way right? More grinding???


Those figures are already at the extreme high end. Grinding the valve stems will INCREASE the clearance even more. Try lapping the valves to REDUCE the clearances.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner said:


> Leakdown test?? No clue,...
> 
> Nope no blue smole, no smoke at all, a puff on startup. So would i file the bottom of the valvestem before reassembly?? I have to go check gap now


There is plenty of information concerning leak down tests and they sell kits specifically designed to perform the test. I personally took an old spark plug, chipped out the porcelain and welded a male air tool fitting to it. I bring the piston to top dead center and apply around 50 psi of air with the flywheel clamped so it doesn't move and listen where the air is coming from. Air through the carb, leaky intake valve. Air through the muffler, leaky exhaust valve. Air through the oil fill tube, leaky piston rings.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*Thank you grunt*

I was basicly trying to get to that 3600 mark. I do have an tach. As well, I do not want to reduce torque!!!! I do pressure and vaccum tests on saws but we only do 8 lbs of each or it would pop the seals for sure. I just want this thing to really scream when Im done. If i blow it up its no big deal theres a pile of them at the scrapyard. I also have a poc knock off Honda if I get in a jam I just want to learn about these Tecumsah motors and have the best, oldest blower on the block. I read about impellor kits long before I had a snowblower and that was the first thing I installed on both of them!!  Thanks for your help, keep it coming!! I'll do return as best I can but im a 2 stroke guy!! RL


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## marspatt (Dec 4, 2014)

Grunt said:


> If the engine is at the point of replacing, he has absolutely nothing to lose by trying and learning a few things along the way. There are plenty of youtube videos and enough experience on this forum to help with all aspects of an engine rebuild. At some point it may be cost prohibitive to buy and replace every part, but I would encourage him to try and repair the OLD engine for the experience and confidence gained. We all have to or had to start somewhere.
> 
> We were typing at the same time. I see that you are more than qualified to do the repairs and look forward to your progress. This is a Briggs motor? If you post the model and spec number, I may have a service manual link to help you.


Hey Grunt,

I'm about to dig into a B & S Model 130252 Type 0872-01 that won't start and seems to have low compression. Plug is sparking and I smell gas, so am expecting to find valve and/or ring issues. A service manual link would be real helpful and appreciated.

Thanks.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

marspatt said:


> Hey Grunt,
> 
> I'm about to dig into a B & S Model 130252 Type 0872-01 that won't start and seems to have low compression. Plug is sparking and I smell gas, so am expecting to find valve and/or ring issues. A service manual link would be real helpful and appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.


Here you go marspatt. Good luck with the repairs.

Link


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*so Ive lapped and lapped*

and I just cant get any further than 10 and 12. The ground area now cover about 1/2 of the 45 degree valve angle. I really dont want the whole area to sit flat right? it does need some sort of ridge to make positive seal right. Also these measurements are without springs installed and i would think a running machine would allow the stem to heat up, stretch and that would close the distance, correct? Anyway, waiting on parts,.. any thoughts,.. will perform leakdown test when done. If rings are leaking you would hear the air coming through the crankcase oil fill?? thanks RL


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

Also forgot to mention a "perfectly running" snowking engine popped up on cl for 100$. New shortblock in 2005, any thought?? Please dont say "predator" that gives me hives.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> and I just cant get any further than 10 and 12. The ground area now cover about 1/2 of the 45 degree valve angle. I really dont want the whole area to sit flat right? it does need some sort of ridge to make positive seal right. Also these measurements are without springs installed and i would think a running machine would allow the stem to heat up, stretch and that would close the distance, correct? Anyway, waiting on parts,.. any thoughts,.. will perform leakdown test when done. If rings are leaking you would hear the air coming through the crankcase oil fill?? thanks RL


I would guess the only negative of to much valve clearance would be, tappet noise and the automatic camshaft compression release not functioning as it should. The minimal loss of valve lift shouldn't hurt performance much.

You are correct, air from the oil fill tube would indicate blow by the rings and a little air passing is normal. Real leak down testers will tell you the percentage of leakage and the actual allowable amount.

This is just MY opinion and I do accept criticism well.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> Also forgot to mention a "perfectly running" snowking engine popped up on cl for 100$. New shortblock in 2005, any thought?? Please dont say "predator" that gives me hives.


Sound like a good price. 
What horse power? Electric start? Alternator?


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*It's a 7 hp run on only synthetic since 05.*

It does not burn a drop of oil. Im guessing all my Tecumsah motors do not have a lighting coil or (alternator??) can they be added? Different flywheel and coil? Thanks.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

its not worth it, the only reason to use a tecumseh is if your blower has two outputs. clones are much better options


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> It does not burn a drop of oil. Im guessing all my Tecumsah motors do not have a lighting coil or (alternator??) can they be added? Different flywheel and coil? Thanks.


"Most" Tecumseh motors can be modified to have an alternator. The problem is finding the CORRECT flywheel and alternator coil at a worthwhile price. To me, an electric start conversion has more value and useful purpose than adding a lighting provision which can be had just by wearing a head type LED or bicycle light to the dash. JMHO.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*yes I hear you on the headlamp*

I was just curious. 43128 I'm not interested in clones, REALLY!!!! I do have electric start but I dont like it and would rather just have pull. A good running motor will fire just fine at 10 below with 2 or 3 pulls. I always take my machines inside, let all the ice and snow melt off for a day, grease, maintain and oil as nessesacary and the put back back in the cold garage for the next storm. Dont want to bring a warm machine into the cold and have an ice buildup on everything. I also converted one of my chutes to the star drive, so much quicker than the worm drive chute. I also broke two of those and welded them. the ring is very thin where it meets the chute and breaks easily.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> in clones, REALLY!!!! I do have electric start but I dont like it and would rather just have pull. A good running motor will fire just fine at 10 below with 2 or 3 pulls. easily.


Once you reach senior citizen status and are dressed up like Ralphies little brother in Christmas Story, you will learn to appreciate the electric starter in below zero weather.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*lol*

LMAO!!!!! I'll send you one if you send me the cover plate for it!!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> LMAO!!!!! I'll send you one if you send me the cover plate for it!!


Thanks for the offer Redliner. Because I am the person I described, I have a spare starter for each of my machines.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*of course!*

We sound a lot alike


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*well,...*

were at .008 exhaust and .009 intake clearance. I lowered the piston halfway and filled it 1/4 with mm oil. its been holding at 1/4" for 3 hrs we'll see where it is in the morning. New carb is here but gaskets are not. Picking up 7 hp Snowking tomorrow,


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*soooo*

The Marvel Mystery oil drained down to about 3/16". This tells me the rings cant be that bad, at all. Keep in mind this thing ran and started easily in sub cold, by hand. I think there may be a different oil leak or just an re break in after sitting for a while. I ran maybe 3 tanks through it since buying it for 125$. When I put the tach on it if I dont get to 3600 rpm which way do I go with the govenor holes to increase. Also should I thread in a straight pipe muffler, will that give me any more power/speed? Thanks, B


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> The Marvel Mystery oil drained down to about 3/16". This tells me the rings cant be that bad, at all. Keep in mind this thing ran and started easily in sub cold, by hand. I think there may be a different oil leak or just an re break in after sitting for a while. I ran maybe 3 tanks through it since buying it for 125$. When I put the tach on it if I dont get to 3600 rpm which way do I go with the govenor holes to increase. Also should I thread in a straight pipe muffler, will that give me any more power/speed? Thanks, B


I would personally leave the governor settings alone. Pages 31 and 32 in the service manual show the adjustments for setting both high and low speed limits. Except for annoying the neighbors (which isn't necessarily bad), eliminating the muffler will not add any more pep to the motor. These are plain general service motors not easily or cheaply modified for high performance. Get the engine running as good as possible and add an impeller kit if you need to throw the snow further.


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*yes sir*

I did install my own impellor kit right off the bat. Do you think the mm oil test was a good way to see if the rings were leaking? I will do a leakdown test once i put her back together. I'm also going to be running the 5-30 oil but I think that just gets thinner faster for the cold weather right? I had a straight pipe on my cement mixer B+S motor with a rusted out round muffler, that was annoyingly loud!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Redliner67 said:


> I did install my own impellor kit right off the bat. Do you think the mm oil test was a good way to see if the rings were leaking? I will do a leakdown test once i put her back together. I'm also going to be running the 5-30 oil but I think that just gets thinner faster for the cold weather right? I had a straight pipe on my cement mixer B+S motor with a rusted out round muffler, that was annoyingly loud!


I believe putting a little gas in the cylinder would be a little better than the thicker MM oil. The preferred test as you stated, will be a leak down test. I USED to put a little oil in the cylinder when using a compression tester just to see how much higher the PSI's go for a rough estimate on ring\cylinder wear. I THINK the PSI's would normally go up by about 10 pounds for an engine in good shape???


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*Ok*

Good stuff! Thanks 😃 Waiting for pahts. 😃


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*soooo*

I picked up my Snowking 7 hp last night for 100$. The guy I got it from was some type of engineer, very smart. He rebuilt the motor only a couple months ago and had 350$ into the short block!! He highly recommended 5w-40 synthetic (diesel compatible) motor oil because of the aluminum bore in the 7 hp. Sound like i got a great motor!!! I think he said Rotella T oil? Any thoughts on this? He said it has all the extra metals in the oil you need for complete lubrication, expensive stuff though. He said the reg 30 wt I been using is like trying to destroy my motor,.. Yikes!!

Got all my gaskets and new carb, just need to put her back together! Cant wait to do comp test!


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*She's back together*

But, it was very hard to start (I had to use electric  ). When I got it going it ran like a raped ape, way higher than it should, erratic middle and no idle. Finally i got it to idle somewhat, but in the mid band its was "hunting" and wide open was screaming. I think I have the gov where it was before, 99% sure but,.. Very high compression, happy with that!! I think with all the new parts i just need to go through the manual and make sure the air screw is right, gov setting, idle screw, main jet, ect. I printed out the whole manual so I can have it in my hands working on the machine. So I'm close, but no cigar (as they say),....


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Redliner67 said:


> But, it was very hard to start (I had to use electric  ). When I got it going it ran like a raped ape, way higher than it should, erratic middle and no idle. Finally i got it to idle somewhat, but in the mid band its was "hunting" and wide open was screaming. I think I have the gov where it was before, 99% sure but,.. Very high compression, happy with that!! I think with all the new parts i just need to go through the manual and make sure the air screw is right, gov setting, idle screw, main jet, ect. I printed out the whole manual so I can have it in my hands working on the machine. So I'm close, but no cigar (as they say),....


The governors on these things are calibrated to the WOT position of the throttle butterfly & a retracted governor spool...that's the only setting for the governor arm. They're designed to maintain constant RPM; spring tension controls the RPM that it's working to maintain. In otherwords, the governor arm should not be used to adjust RPMs.

If you follow the L-head service manual (page 27):


> GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT
> With the engine stopped, loosen the screw holding the
> governor clamp on the governor lever. Rotate the clamp
> in a direction that will force the throttle shaft open and
> ...


If you follow this procedure and it's still loosin' its marbles, it could be the linkage, spring setting or the governor spool is stuck in the out-position. A stuck governor spool nearly grendaded my '72 H35 (_since it couldn't retract when I was setting the governor arm position_):


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## Redliner (Feb 26, 2014)

*thanks!*

Thanks very much for that!! I have not dug into the "cause" yet but thats a great place to start. I just put her back together tha way it came apart, (I think). I should have took some pics!! 

Great post


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## Redliner67 (Mar 2, 2015)

*Done!*

Used the book and Classycats suggestions. Got the gov right. got the idle and high speed very close, waiting on my tach. She runs awesome!! Oh and the compression went from and good working machine at 50#'s the 125!!!!!#'s Super psyched! Thanks everyone! Looking forward to some more white stuff!!!


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