# Friction wheel DIY for 1030E?



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

The last time I tried to replace this rubber treaded friction wheel, I could NOT get the axle out of the machine to do it. (Wishing it was like my Ariens where the axle does not go all the way through the machine, side to side).

Can anyone tell me the correct steps to take (obviously after removing belly pan and wheels ) or have a good video or DIY? I can't find one.

Thank you!!! Such a bummer that this workhouse of a snowblower is out of commission because I can't change the friction wheel.

Jay


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Should explain it in the manual? Do you have the manual?

Studying the location access on most machines will self explain the steps to access a friction ring change usually. Some are easy, and some require an in depth dismantle to get at it. All machines are not equal in this task.


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

I am sure you can find a youtube video on this.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneacer said:


> Should explain it in the manual? Do you have the manual?
> 
> Studying the location access on most machines will self explain the steps to access a friction ring change usually. Some are easy, and some require an in depth dismantle to get at it. All machines are not equal in this task.


Don't have a manual. Haven't been able to find one.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

RAOUL225 said:


> I am sure you can find a youtube video on this.


I've searched probably 25 times, can't find one on this type of machine. I mean, at the end of the day, it's obvious that the axle with the friction wheel on it, has to come free from one side or the other. Looking in from the bottom with the belly pan removed, there are the gears on the left side... Maybe I need to pull the whole gear assembly out too? Seems extreme to replace a disposable part. The other side, the right side, has the 3 small bolts where the axle goes through a bearing... But taking them out doesn't allow the axle to slide one way or the other.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

On some units, there is a small roll pin that has to be removed in order to slide out the shaft/axle.

Many times, you have to do this, as after you undo the bolts holding it to its holder, you need an exit point for the disc, in order to remove and install the new one.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneacer said:


> On some units, there is a small roll pin that has to be removed in order to slide out the shaft/axle.


There's definitely a small "pin", about an 1/8 wide - circular - that goes through the axle. But it's pretty far off to the left of the friction wheel and I'm aware of it should I get to the point where the axle itself is freed up to slide one way or the other so that I can get the friction wheel out. I just haven't gotten that far yet


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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)




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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)

As seen in the video, there is likely a bolt and washer on each end of the shaft, to keep the shaft centered in the housing. Those need to be removed. The roll pin needs to come out, to allow the gear to slide on the shaft.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

strtch5881 said:


>


I WISH it were this easy on mine. No bolts on the end to simply remove. C-clips through alloy bracket on one side (right) and bearing on other while also going through the gear component.


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## ColoradoBoo (Sep 3, 2021)

Did you get it replaced? My 2016 Husqvarna ST230P was having troubles moving in deep snow last winter so I have a new rubber ring to replace mine and I'm getting ready to tackle it before winter comes. (Both belts are new.)


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

ColoradoBoo - Welcome! Glad you posted. BUT this post is 8 months old and he has not been on for a long time. I did a Search and he's not even a member anymore.

Changing a friction disk is my least liked job. It's a bloody greasy mess. Too many parts. Too tedious to put back. Is it a DIY job? Yes for someone that can turn a wrench. Suggestion - Take pictures.

Moving can be a slipping drive belt. Or an adjustment. 

Stand the snowblower on end, remove the bottom pan, look at the drive disk, pieces missing, it will be worn, but if there is rubber there, it's driving.


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## ColoradoBoo (Sep 3, 2021)

Thanks, JLaw! I will open her up and see if I can just adjust the settings to get that wheel to push up against the metal thing tighter. 
Last winter, she was chewing through some pretty thick snow and it also had some ice chunks and I had a piece of metal from the auger break off. I'll have to look at them and see if I need to replace one of the sides. I priced it through Husqvarna and each side is $120....ouch. Hopefully I only need to replace one side, not both.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Augers can usually be repaired easily, and sometimes, even though rare, need some welding.

Friction drive rubber most certainly wears out, it is a built in wear item, ... like bearings, bushings, belts, shear pins, tires, etc ....

Maintaining a machine properly with lube and adjustments goes a long way in preserving these wear items.... as well as operating it in the manner it was intended.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Do not shift gears when the snowblower is moving, shift only when stopped. When stopped the rubber friction disk is off the spinning plate, when moving, the rubber disk is sliding along the spinning rubber friction disk wearing it out quicker.


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