# Toro 826 (38150 from 1979) Throttle Not Working



## Nick Mercier (Jan 21, 2018)

I have a monster Toro that is older than me. I just cleaned the carb and changed out the oil which really needed doing, but something is misaligned with the throttle control now and I can't for the life of me figure out what it SHOULD look like and what went wrong, if something popped off I didn't notice, or if there is a piece missing, or if I just have it stupid misaligned.

Does anyone have a working Toro of this model who could perhaps snap me a couple photos of what that area (throttle control behind/under the carb) is supposed to look like so I can maybe diagnose and repair?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Welcome to the forum! 

If you can post the exact model number of the engine, that might help people. And pictures of your current throttle & governor linkage setup would also be useful, to at least give people a starting point.


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## Nick Mercier (Jan 21, 2018)

*Model Number*

Model number is 38150
Serial number is 9009065

I'm not sure if this is model number for the machine itself or for the engine but it was the only model tag info I saw one it.

I will definitely try to get some good pics tomorrow. I've been trying to pour through YouTube videos about throttle regulators and haven't found anything at looks quite right.

I appreciate the help.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to SBF Nick. Below are links to different service manuals to help you.

Toro parts lookup-
https://www.toro.com/en/parts?SearchText=38150&SelectedFilterByOption=equipment
　
Flat head Briggs service manual-
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00/view
　
Toro two stage service manual- ( Thanks Shryp)
http://shryp.ashendust.com/Snowblowers/2stagdrv.pdf


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*If that cable broke!! that part is now NLA. you can peruse E-BAY for one.or you can run this set up. with a spring mounted in there.mg::emoticon-south-park*


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## treysoucie (Jan 15, 2018)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *If that cable broke!! that part is now NLA. you can peruse E-BAY for one.or you can run this set up. with a spring mounted in there.mg::emoticon-south-park*


Did you get rid of the safety levers on the handlebars? im thinking about doing that to mine. what a PITA those things are! ha


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

treysoucie said:


> Did you get rid of the safety levers on the handlebars? im thinking about doing that to mine. what a PITA those things are! ha


*That was the first thing I did ripping those puppy's off of there. parts for those are now NLA. *


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## treysoucie (Jan 15, 2018)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *That was the first thing I did ripping those puppy's off of there. parts for those are now NLA. *


how much easier is it to handle now? have you had any safety concerns after removing? did you remove the entire wiring harness around the handlebars that go to the switches? I want to remove them as well but i want to get rid of all the wiring associated with them.


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## AnOldGearhead (Nov 18, 2017)

Mine's a little different because my throttle control is on the dashboard, but there is not much to connecting the throttle cable. The piece of duct tape on the throttle cable was just a marker so that I could reconnect the cable at exactly the same location in the clamp during reassembly.


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## AnOldGearhead (Nov 18, 2017)

Nick Mercier said:


> Model number is 38150
> Serial number is 9009065
> 
> I'm not sure if this is model number for the machine itself or for the engine but it was the only model tag info I saw one it.


That's for the snowblower. There will probably be a decal on top of the engine, right where the spark plug wire pokes through, that reads:
MODEL TYPE CODE

The engine info will be stamped into the blower cover between that decal and where the spark plug wire emerges.

Edit: Look at the bottom right corner of the first image in one of my other posts:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...r-toro-826-ca-1979-rebuild-3.html#post1461025


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## Nick Mercier (Jan 21, 2018)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *If that cable broke!! that part is now NLA. you can peruse E-BAY for one.or you can run this set up. with a spring mounted in there.mg::emoticon-south-park*


So the cable is intact, the part that the cable moves is not hitting the throttle arm (pardon me using terms completely incorrectly) so the control doesn't move. I tried to get a good photo of the problem but my working hours do not line up with the New England winter sun hours so the quality is crap.


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## Nick Mercier (Jan 21, 2018)

AnOldGearhead said:


> Mine's a little different because my throttle control is on the dashboard, but there is not much to connecting the throttle cable. The piece of duct tape on the throttle cable was just a marker so that I could reconnect the cable at exactly the same location in the clamp during reassembly.


That's exactly what I'm looking at, but what I need to see is the backside of that panel and how the piece the throttle cable moves engages with the arm that the throttle regulator is attached to. 



AnOldGearhead said:


> That's for the snowblower. There will probably be a decal on top of the engine, right where the spark plug wire pokes through, that reads:
> MODEL TYPE CODE
> 
> The engine info will be stamped into the blower cover between that decal and where the spark plug wire emerges.
> ...


Awesome, I can get this information tomorrow and post.

Thank you to everyone for the help!


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## AnOldGearhead (Nov 18, 2017)

Nick Mercier said:


> That's exactly what I'm looking at, but what I need to see is the backside of that panel and how the piece the throttle cable moves engages with the arm that the throttle regulator is attached to.


Ok, I'll post back some time tomorrow with a photo. 





Nick Mercier said:


> Thank you to everyone for the help!


From me, you're welcome!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

treysoucie said:


> how much easier is it to handle now? have you had any safety concerns after removing? did you remove the entire wiring harness around the handlebars that go to the switches? I want to remove them as well but i want to get rid of all the wiring associated with them.


 *Way better don't have to worry aboot nothing . I am the ONLY 1 who runs "SR" so I know all of his little quirks and Fits. yeah I gutted everything oot of there even before the rebuild that engine is a 1992 or 1993 model year. just with a better carb and new rings,honed and all gone thru. PM me if you have any more questions or concerns.*


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## AnOldGearhead (Nov 18, 2017)

Nick Mercier said:


> That's exactly what I'm looking at, but what I need to see is the backside of that panel and how the piece the throttle cable moves engages with the arm that the throttle regulator is attached to.


Here's the pic. The rod from the governor goes through the hole in the arm furthest to the rear of the snowblower, about 1/4" (just by eyeballing it) from the rear end of the arm. In your second photo, is the end of that rod broken or worn off? The other thing going through that arm in my picture is the spring. In your photo it is in the shadow so I can't definitely tell if it is connected or not, but to me the spring looks extended a bit, and so I suspect the spring is connected. The hole for the spring in that arm is maybe 5/16" or 3/8" (by eyeballing again) in front of the hole for the rod from the governor.


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## Nick Mercier (Jan 21, 2018)

AnOldGearhead said:


> Here's the pic. The rod from the governor goes through the hole in the arm furthest to the rear of the snowblower, about 1/4" (just by eyeballing it) from the rear end of the arm. In your second photo, is the end of that rod broken or worn off? The other thing going through that arm in my picture is the spring. In your photo it is in the shadow so I can't definitely tell if it is connected or not, but to me the spring looks extended a bit, and so I suspect the spring is connected. The hole for the spring in that arm is maybe 5/16" or 3/8" (by eyeballing again) in front of the hole for the rod from the governor.


Mine looks like that, with the spring connected and the arm looks very similar. But when I move the throttle forward and back it toggles a metal piece on the back that I'm guessing is supposed to interacted with the arm some how? Or does that metal piece JUST pull on the spring? I'll have to pull it apart this weekend if we have good sun and try to get a better idea of what's going wrong, it's a pain to get a photo of what I'm trying to describe with all the other parts sort of crowding in the way.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Nick Mercier said:


> Mine looks like that, with the spring connected and the arm looks very similar. But when I move the throttle forward and back it toggles a metal piece on the back that I'm guessing is supposed to interacted with the arm some how? Or does that metal piece JUST pull on the spring? I'll have to pull it apart this weekend if we have good sun and try to get a better idea of what's going wrong, it's a pain to get a photo of what I'm trying to describe with all the other parts sort of crowding in the way.


 The gov arm is hooked up to that rod. the cable goes from the kill switch to the high end stop on the gov plate. If I remember right the cable goes in the middle hole of the pivoting arm in there.


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## AnOldGearhead (Nov 18, 2017)

The round vertical metal rod should be connected to the arm that the spring is connected to. Zoom into the last picture I posted - there is a circle drawn around the vertical rod and spring where they connect to the arm. The spring is just visible at the bottom inside the circle.



Nick Mercier said:


> Or does that metal piece JUST pull on the spring?


No. The vertical rod should go through the hole at the rear of the arm as I described. You can see it in the picture I posted yesterday. As POWERSHIFT93 described, the vertical rod (and therefore the arm) is controlled by the governor, and the spring constantly pulls the arm down.


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## AnOldGearhead (Nov 18, 2017)

Also, the throttle cable connects underneath the carb. You can see this too in my last pic below and to the right of the circle and below the brass knurled grip on the emulsion tube needle (the grip also has a screwdriver blade slot in it).


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