# Won't start - can't believe it!!



## dekade (Nov 24, 2015)

My neighbor's 70 year old husband died two weeks ago after a struggle with cancer. So, all we neighbors are pitching in to help her. She has a "1 year old" single stage blower model number 246.116830. He ran it one time last winter; the day he bought it. It has not been started since. I have tried 
everything under the sun to start it. Nothing. The spark plug is as clean as a new one. There is gas getting to the carb; found that out after 30 minutes of frustration and over primed it. The key is in all the way. Can anybody shed any light on the issue. I still can't believe I can't get it started. I've repaired my lawn mowers, my own blowers, pressure washers, all of our cars and trucks, all of my shop tools, and built 4 desktop computers for over 30 years - - but, yet, I can't figure out how to start this one little snowblower!!! Any ideas???


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

drain the gas, clean the main jet, and add fresh gas with stabilizer. i cant find your model number online


----------



## AandPDan (Nov 18, 2014)

Do you have a good spark?


----------



## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Sorry to hear of your neighbor's passing. Our thoughts go out to his widow, and thanks to you and the neighbors who are pitching in to help.

Like has been mentioned, make sure you have good spark. Perhaps get a new spark plug. Clean the carb completely. If it sat with gas in it, it could very likely be clogged.


----------



## dekade (Nov 24, 2015)

43128 said:


> ... i cant find your model number online


I got the model number in a text from her. She may have copied it wrong. I'll go over and check it myself. Anyway here it is again - 247.116830. OOOOPS! My mistake - I typed in 246 on my original post; instead of 247. Sorry forum. Serial number JWA1407222A0549. 

I'll be back to the forum in about 30 minutes with more comments and questions.


----------



## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

There is a bulletin on those engine carbs, as they used 2 different suppliers. There's quite a bit of chat about them being problematic, especially with fuel left in them.
Pull the supply fuel line and drain the tank and verify it's fuel and not 70-30 mixed with water.
I'd check your oil level and make sure it's not heavy with fuel or water from over priming or leaking float needle.
Verify you see spark with the plug out and grounded to the block. Place a rag over the plug hole in case the cylinder is full of gas, pull the cord several times to displace any fuel.
If you have good spark, shoot some PB blaster or good flammable penetrating oil into the cylinder and replace plug. Hopefully it will fire and cause enough vacuum to get past some minor clogs. They use a idle jet on top of the body with a plug covering it, may need cleaning. The main jet is removable inside the center stalk. Deeper up inside is a plastic emulsion tube with 2 o-rings. They have very tiny holes in the sides that clog easily. Hate to say it, but my local guy doesn't even try to clean these Powermore carbs, they just replace them. 
Side note, can't find that model # either, but found 247.11683

Too slow to type, you found the model #
CRAFTSMAN 247.11683 OPERATOR'S MANUAL Pdf Download.


----------



## dekade (Nov 24, 2015)

43128 said:


> drain the gas, clean the main jet, and add fresh gas with stabilizer ...


I was actually trying to avoid this because of the assumption resulting from the newness of the blower. But, I may have to give in and do an R & R.


----------



## dekade (Nov 24, 2015)

bwdbrn1 said:


> Sorry to hear ... make sure you have good spark. Perhaps get a new spark plug. Clean the carb completely. If it sat with gas in it, it could very likely be clogged.


Thanks for the sympathy vote. A very sad situation. Paid off their house 16 months ago. Both then retired. 6 months later he had a choking spell. Esophageal cancer. Of course the 40 years of cig's didn't help any. Three months of radiation treatment, pneumonia, and infections of all sorts, and he was gone. Now, there she sits - trying to stomp out the bitterness.

I have practiced for years on using stabilizer and SeaFoam. I don't want to argue with anyone but I have had quite a few issues where standard untreated gas has sat in various carb's for a few years and the engine would still start up.

Yep, you guessed it. I'm trying to avoid the rebuild of the carb.:wavetowel2: Only one year old.

Also, I have not yet checked the spark.


----------



## dekade (Nov 24, 2015)

jtclays said:


> ... especially with fuel left in them.
> Pull the supply fuel line and drain the tank and verify it's fuel and not 70-30 mixed with water.
> I'd check your oil level and make sure it's not heavy with fuel or water from over priming or leaking float needle.
> Verify you see spark with the plug out and grounded to the block. Place a rag over the plug hole in case the cylinder is full of gas, pull the cord several times to displace any fuel.
> ...


Bunches of good advice here. Thank you very much. Well, give me about a half a day to get back over there and bring the machine back across the street to my house so I am closer to all my tools.

I'll keep checking back to the forum to see if there are any new comments until I can post a new results comment of my own back to the forum.

You guys are being very nice to help. Thanks a bunch!

Dekade


----------



## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

As others have mentioned switching spark plug may be a good idea regardless of what you see initially when checking for spark. The Powermore comes with a Torch brand plug, typically F6RTC. Lots of complaints about them. Cross ref to NGK BPR6ES, or even Champion RN9YC I think. You said it was clean looking, but wonder if the old timer put some premix 50:1 in there? Should still work, just smoke, but you never know.


----------



## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

Could it be that the fuel has turned bad? Is there any levers that need to be dis-engaged in order for the engine to start? I'm just guessing as I have never owned a machine like that .


----------



## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Page 18 of the manual jtclays found has a list of trouble shooting tips that may help you out.


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

jtclays said:


> As others have mentioned switching spark plug may be a good idea regardless of what you see initially when checking for spark. The Powermore comes with a Torch brand plug, typically F6RTC. Lots of complaints about them. Cross ref to NGK BPR6ES, or even Champion RN9YC I think. You said it was clean looking, but wonder if the old timer put some premix 50:1 in there? Should still work, just smoke, but you never know.


+1 on the plug change. I've had ope that had wonderful spark bjt would't run or would run poorly. Install new plug and problem solved. 
(Hi J.T.)


----------



## dekade (Nov 24, 2015)

Just wanted to let the forum know that I am starting in on the diagnosis. We have had four weeks of very warm weather. I procrastinated the issue the whole time. I am going now to buy a new spark plug first thing. I agree that would be a good way to start diagnosing. If you all don't mind I'm going to keep in touch with you throughout the day or few days as things progress good or bad.


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

an ngk bpr6es is what i would use, any auto parts store should have it , if they ask for the ngk part number it is 7131. i would also get some starting fluid and spray just a bit down the cylinder while your changing out the plug


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Keep us posrd. I hope you get it running.


----------



## dekade (Nov 24, 2015)

Hi forum,

Got 'er goin'!!!. Long story short - new plug ... no go; took out the carb; pulled off the float bowl ... looked like a friggin' war zone; went and bought some Gumout Carb Cleaner; disassembled the carb completely and cleaned it all; put everything back together; new gas, then added SeaFoam and Sta-Bil to the gas. Started on first pull. Only problem is, even though I measured with a measuring cup, I think I overdid it on the additives. Had to keep the choke lever almost fully choked for first five minutes. As time went on I could move the choke closer to run but after letting it run for an hour never could get it to smooth out in the "run" position. However, runs *great* with choke lever about an 1/8 inch from full choke position. I'll let the gas run out and then be more careful on the additives next time. If still rough on the 'run' setting - will then go with a new carb for $59.00. Thanks everyone for all the help. The neighbor lady is very thankful to all involved. Let me know if you think I am on the right track about the additives causing a rough "run" position.

Kind Regards,

Dekade


----------



## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

sounds like your carb is still dirty, or you have questionable fuel in it. more than likely the carb needs more attention.


----------



## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

dekade said:


> Hi forum,
> 
> Got 'er goin'!!!. Long story short - new plug ... no go; took out the carb; pulled off the float bowl ... looked like a friggin' war zone; went and bought some Gumout Carb Cleaner; disassembled the carb completely and cleaned it all; put everything back together; new gas, then added SeaFoam and Sta-Bil to the gas. Started on first pull. Only problem is, even though I measured with a measuring cup, I think I overdid it on the additives. Had to keep the choke lever almost fully choked for first five minutes. As time went on I could move the choke closer to run but after letting it run for an hour never could get it to smooth out in the "run" position. However, runs *great* with choke lever about an 1/8 inch from full choke position. I'll let the gas run out and then be more careful on the additives next time. If still rough on the 'run' setting - will then go with a new carb for $59.00. Thanks everyone for all the help. The neighbor lady is very thankful to all involved. Let me know if you think I am on the right track about the additives causing a rough "run" position.
> 
> ...


Are there any mixture adjustments on the carb? sounds like it's too lean, and you need the choke to richen it up to a point where it will run. If there are no adjustable jets, you might still have a blocked passage that's holding up the parade. They all have to be cleaned out with a small piece of wire that fits the holes.


----------



## dekade (Nov 24, 2015)

I hear ya. I sure don't want to do this again. May just talk her into a new carb at $59.00. Gas - I strongly feel was clean


----------



## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

dekade said:


> I hear ya. I sure don't want to do this again. May just talk her into a new carb at $59.00. Gas - I strongly feel was clean


Wouldn't ya like to take another crack at this one? The fact that there was lots of crap and corruption in there when you first opened it up is a sign you may have missed something. Think of all the great experience and satisfaction you will get if you find the cause and cure it! 

Just a thought, when you put the carb back on, did you check the gasket surface was clean, on both the head and the carb face, and that the gasket was in good condition? An air leak there could cause trouble. Both bolts tightened evenly? What about the bowl gasket, float, needle valve etc.? The main jet has several holes that all need to be open and clean. Were all those free moving, needle valve tip in good shape? As others have mentioned, is the gas tank clean on the inside? Any junk in there, including water will take a nice clean carb and make it dirty again.

I don't know if you have the manual, but here's a link and around page 28 they show the carb exploded view, and a parts list after that. All those little parts that are removable, should be removed and checked.

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/477247/Craftsman-247-11683.html#manual


----------

