# Tube came off red primer button. Won’t start



## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t start my blower, then figured out why. See pic.

What easiest way to get this back on? Never had to take this area apart. I was pressing this and here the hole time it was doing NOTHING. Need to re- connect









(owners manual)


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

There should be a nipple just above the bowl somewhere .......


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Pry the choke knob off with a screwdriver, remove the cover nuts/screws, you'll see a metal nipple that the hose goes on.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

Thanks guys. Is there a way to get it back on without having to remove the cover? Just wondering. It’s away now but will mess with it later. 

( if this happens to anyone else, the way I got it started was hooking up the power cord and using the electric start which starts spins up much quicker when you can’t prime)


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Yes, stand the snowblower on the front and use needle nose pliers. It very easily slips on. Check that there are no remnants left on there.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

Thanks. That’s did it. The prime tube actually tore off at the end of the carburetor, it was still in good shape was able to slide it back on.

This thing has been pretty damn solid. Got it used in 2007, production date says 2002. One other thing I’ve started to notice is when in the forward gears over 6” of snow I have to physically push it as the self propelled wheels don’t seem as strong. I can put it in 5-7 forward gear and it moves fast but I still will have to assist it when over 5-6 inches of snow.




























also, the tube on the middle right is for overflow of gas? thanks


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Download the owner's manual from searspartsdirect.com and it will show you how to adjust the friction wheel to factory specs on page 25.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

That tube in the right of your photo would be the crankcase filter breather tube most likely.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

The drive issue could be a couple things, the drive belt idler pulley adjustment or even a new drive belt ...... or a friction disc adjustment of even a new friction disc if worn down or damaged/all cracked up.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

db130 said:


> Download the owner's manual from searspartsdirect.com and it will show you how to adjust the friction wheel to factory specs on page 25.


Very cool, thanks. Very imformative page too.



oneacer said:


> The drive issue could be a couple things, the drive belt idler pulley adjustment or even a new drive belt ...... or a friction disc adjustment of even a new friction disc if worn down or damaged/all cracked up.


Appreciated. May have to pull that cover off and snap some pics if I can't tell what's wrong.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I have a 10HP Yard Machine version of that style machine that I refurbished, worked it today for first time, runs great.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

oneacer said:


> The drive issue could be a couple things, the drive belt idler pulley adjustment or even a new drive belt ...... or a friction disc adjustment of even a new friction disc if worn down or damaged/all cracked up.


@oneacer - found the issue. Just went to check the friction wheel!!! 










Damn mice built a nest and it was slipping due to all the insulation! Bastards! That cover was on tight and can’t figure out how they even got inside unless it was through this opening!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

LOL ... I see that all the time. Mice will get in anywhere, even the slightest crack.

Most people keep there blowers outside under a tarp, or in a shed , which is not sealed properly for vermin.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Yup that will do it.

Looks like that machine needs some lubrication - friction disk shaft, chain, gears, axle shafts (if you can get the rims off) etc.
Probably wouldn't hurt to clean the drive plate with a clean rag and some gas or carb or brake cleaner.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

Ziggy65 said:


> Yup that will do it.
> 
> Looks like that machine needs some lubrication - friction disk shaft, chain, gears, axle shafts (if you can get the rims off) etc.
> Probably wouldn't hurt to clean the drive plate with a clean rag and some gas or carb or brake cleaner.


 @oneacer 

Had it back together before you replied but did wipe the drive plate with carb cleaner and cleaned friction disk. Checked the measurement in the manual and it was spot on. And the friction rubber is a 16th of a inch thick still aprox. Used it yesterday again and wheels stopped propelling in all forward gears in heavier snow. I had to really muscle it pushing it to try to clear snow then the shear pin broke for the wheels.

Any other ideas why it can’t carry its own weight anymore in thicker snow? Thanks again. (Yes will oil chain then, etc)


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