# white Snow Boss SB-855W / mtd 600 series 2 shaft engine?



## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

I'm curious i've had a few snowblowers. I get the oddball old ones that still have 2 shaft engines. But when I got this 2002 white. I was certain would be a standard motor. When I took off the belt cover I was kind of blown away to see a 2 shaft engine on a 2002 model. so I'm curious how long were 2 shaft engines being used? 

I didn't realize Tecumseh was still doing dual shaft this late in the game? I kind of want to repower it and just sell the dual shaft since its so nice and i have so many 8hp Tecumseh single shafts ready to run on the shelf. 

never seen one on this 'new' of a model. Are there ones being sold that still run dual shaft? or when was the final mfg date for ones usage?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

You can still repower using a single shaft but you have to flip the guts underneath to the other side.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

JLawrence08648 said:


> You can still repower using a single shaft but you have to flip the guts underneath to the other side.


thats what i was thinking of doing. Just couldnt believe that late had a dual shaft in 2002. Threw me off


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

you might be able to convert it to single shaft engine but i think you would have to replace the friction disk. i think you would need a a friction disk like 656-04025A. it looks like it has a larger pulley which would help convert the high engine speed into a lower drive speed. i know i tried driving a machine like that with a regular engine and it was too fast no matter where you were in the gear range. at least the mtd's stayed pretty much the same for long while so it should be easy to find parts used to do the conversion. heck if you lived closer i am pretty sure i got all the parts needed to do it sitting on my parts machine.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> you might be able to convert it to a single-shaft engine but I think you would have to replace the friction disk. I think you would need a friction disk-like 656-04025A. it looks like it has a larger pulley which would help convert the high engine speed into a lower drive speed. I know I tried driving a machine like that with a regular engine and it was too fast no matter where you were in the gear range. at least the MTD's stayed pretty much the same for long while so it should be easy to find parts used to do the conversion. heck if you lived closer I am pretty sure I got all the parts needed to do it sitting on my parts machine.


Definitely. I actually really like the machine. It runs great. I think I will definitely plan on doing this. Tonight I took the auger all apart. Got it all wire sanded down to get all the flaking stuff off good. Started to rustoleum it. not the best ever. I wish id have naval jelly'd it. But im happy with it. I did notice when I took it off the auger bearing didnt feel smooth. So ordered a new one. Going to take apart the gear case and take a look. Figure I have it apart why not see how everything looks before i put it in use. It has the switch for the electric chute control. But does not have it. 

So if I just flipped the drive system to do the swap. My biggest issue would be the pulley size and it running too fast? even in 1st? Would i have to change the whole friction disc assembly? 

Like I said I have about 8 tecumseh single shafts all rebuilt ready to go. Would love to have it setup i can use that. I even have 2 10hp.

It has the dual trigger for independent wheels. Not sure what its called. never had one with that. Blows me away.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ya even if you flipped the drive system the machine would likely move to fast. the cam spins at half the speed that the crank moves. crank moves at 3600rpm and the cam spins at 1800rpm which is a pretty big difference. worst case scenario you could likely swap out the cam/side cover on one of those 8 or 10 hp engines just so you can keep the cam pulley. it would likely be simpler and cheaper to do that mess with the drive system.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> ya even if you flipped the drive system the machine would likely move to fast. the cam spins at half the speed that the crank moves. crank moves at 3600rpm and the cam spins at 1800rpm which is a pretty big difference. worst case scenario you could likely swap out the cam/side cover on one of those 8 or 10 hp engines just so you can keep the cam pulley. it would likely be simpler and cheaper to do that mess with the drive system.


would you perhaps have a link? i honestly like to get away from dual shaft. But i understand what you mean about the half speed. engine runs great. Ill check the valves and compression if its good ill just send it and not worry about it honestly. its a backup blower at this point.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

ill focus on repowering the ariens that is dual shaft that i dont have a dual shaft for  is an old snow throw. best to invest my time in ones that arent working


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

unless you plan on upgrading to a OHV engine i really don't see much point trying to get away from a dual shaft engine. 

if you don't have a dual shaft engine for the ariens and it has a tecumseh could always find a same HP engine and swap the side cover and cam over to the good engine to convert it to a dual shaft engine. most times this is easier than messing with trying to make a single shaft engine work in place of a dual shaft engine.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

Yeah i have like 8- 8hp snow king tecumsehs but all single.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

i started off after i stripped it down to rattle can paint it. Quickly realized only way to go is foam roller to get that enamel to sit real flat and pretty. Hopefully by tomorrow will be done. Am also picking up another white 13.5/33" tomorrow of around same era. Liked this white so much when i saw the other had to have it.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

lol. if it has the same type of bucket with 3 stud/nuts on each side holding the bucket to the tractor it will likely have the same dual shaft engine.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

before and after. Dont mind the stuff the wind is blowing all over. we are picking everything up for winter and tearing down greenhouses and fencing and such. So is a little bit of chaos. but cant paint when snow hits and i can pick stuff up. Not done in the slightest. rolled on some coats before sun set. Will finish it up tomorrow after i pick up the generac and the other white.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

will look nice all finished. I plan to print out some new decals to replace the ones i stripped off. There was nothing but rust under em.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

looks good. make sure to drill the impeller for the impeller mod before putting it back together. i don't know about that machine but most mtd machines like that usually have about 1/2" gap between the impeller and housing. you will notice a huge difference in performance.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> looks good. make sure to drill the impeller for the impeller mod before putting it back together. i don't know about that machine but most mtd machines like that usually have about 1/2" gap between the impeller and housing. you will notice a huge difference in performance.
> View attachment 169953
> View attachment 169954


I want to do this. Was hoping to take it to a neighbors who has a drill press and use baler belting from TSC https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/wcco-belting-baler-belting-2-ply-4-in-x-60-in

I wasnt sure if the impeller would work with self tapping screws. I tried it before i painted it and it just kind of spun on the metal and after several slips i gave up. I never have luck using hand drills on metals like that. So was hoping to go with a drill press. It definitely has a big gap.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

you end up burning through a lot of self tapping screws if you just use them to drill through the impeller. i have done it with success. just took patience. i found drilling a pilot hole helped a lot when using just self tapping screws. in the pictures i posted i was doing a machine for my aunt so i drilled holes for 1/4" bolts because i did not want it having any issues. i just use a regular cordless drill to do all my drilling.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> you end up burning through a lot of self tapping screws if you just use them to drill through the impeller. i have done it with success. just took patience. i found drilling a pilot hole helped a lot when using just self tapping screws. in the pictures i posted i was doing a machine for my aunt so i drilled holes for 1/4" bolts because i did not want it having any issues. i just use a regular cordless drill to do all my drilling.


i will maybe try it tomorrow with my cordless and get a new set of metal bits when i pick up the new blower.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

didnt get back to the white today. But i did go get this beauty. Made in Canada!! Love the stickers they used.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

I have a few of these. could i use this for my repower over the 8.5? have a 1350, 1450 and 1550 as well. Its about only ones i see that are close. 









25D137-0002


Item Specifications16.5 ft-lbs Gross Troque1650 Series Snow420 CCOverhead Valve: YesMounting: HorizontalStarter Type: Electric Starter (110V plug-in)Alternator: 9 AmpOil Capacity: 37 ozFuel Tank: 1.725 GallonsShaft Size: 3/4"Dx2-5/16"LMuffler: IncludedLength: 14.5"Height: 18.3"Width...




www.smallenginewarehouse.com


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

I had an MTD 8/26 with a Tecumseh HMSK80 (8 Hp) dual shaft (the second one is called the PTO shaft) and was very pleased with it. As you correctly pointed out, re-powering is an issue, but there are come threads on this site sowing how it can be done. The transmission does require some work, but it isn't impossible. You just need to do some searching on the site to find the threads. 

I contemplated doing it myself, and also started looking into finding an HMSK100 (10 Hp) engine to upgrade the power on my machine. However, before finding the elusive donor engine or long block, something newer came along and.......

Bottom line, there are options and alternatives out there.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i really don't get why you would want to throw $350 at an old snowblower plus whatever parts or work you would need to do to make a single shaft engine work.it just doesn't make financial sense to do it. $350 is a pretty good dent towards buying a nicer snowblower. if you had to sell it i think you would likely take a loss if you spent $350 on just the motor alone. if your do want a newer motor may be worth trying to find one used. i bought a whole tractor originally for the chute but got a good motor with it and only paid $80


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

crazzywolfie, I understand your point, but there are some people who like a challenge. People who wrench on or restore old cars, tractors, boats etc. certainly don't do a cost-benefit analysis, becuase if they did, they wouldn't like the results. Just sayin'.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

i literally have dozens of engines and parts because people just throw em away. Guys like you help me make a living. You keep putting them out for free with a dirty carb or a burned out worm gear and i get free engines and parts for days. The goal is to re-use some of these parts to create less waste. Recycling is also re-using. humans wasted how much energy to already make these things. So why let them sit and rust. Why not find ways to turn junk into reusable stuff.

The way i look at repowering one that is capable of repowering, is that engine helps me power one that cant be repowered by a modern single shaft. I have a few ariens better than anything built today that take some serious fabrication to flip the internals. But they take 0 fabrication and a little time with a pulley chart to put a dual shaft on. So when i see a dual shaft engine thats how my mind works. Because the guy i sell it to wont care about it being a dual shaft. Til he doesnt maintain it and finds out hes SOL. Honestly, i would argue some single shaft repowers are easy and less time consuming on paper then trying to convert the shafts and side plates. 


I have stacks of engines, Not stacks of blowers. So every one i can convert to single shaft engine i will do. Round here its a real selling point. Honestly i look at it like this. I can get maybe $100 for a 8hp tecumseh. people will give me $400 for a dual shaft engine that runs. Its not really about the money for me as it is keeping people up and running. 

An example i have 1 guy i could repower his entire machine in 30 minutes with a single shaft. He wanted to pay me top dollar for my only 10hp dual shaft. He said online they are double and i just want the engine its supposed to have. Im not going to try to change an 80 year old man. But lots of "new machines" thats what we go through. We eat those machines alive. So when i find units that are the right setup proven those are the ones ill go at. 


I actually found all of the parts to make it work with single shaft. At the end of the day the conversion i spent more on a new set of belts than i will have on converting it. But the reality is i can sell it with confidence. Now they call me up say "hey bud that new blower you sold me the engine just locked up" oh no problem come on back and let me throw one off the shelf for ya. I cant do that with a dual shaft. Because every time i get a dual shaft its on a machine or sold. I have a list right now of about 8 people that will take that dual shaft. 

im that guy that will drive 10 hours across WI, IL and MI to pick up other peoples junk to give it new life. 


it probably wont be repowered because someone already stopped by and made me an offer on it when they saw me painting all of the parts.

One thing that sucks is i ran out of the quart and i had a random can of "safety red" high gloss performance enamel. kind of ruined the paint job in spots because they put so much solvent in it, Made the stuff i painted crack. At least it was only on the blades and the side bars. But it was perfect til i tried to cut a corner. I really only wanted the engine because i have a beautiful old ariens that i really want to bring back to life. this engine is actually setup as is to repower it. Thats ok. 


You gotta have fun with what you do and make it interesting or it eats you alive i say. Much respect! -YWCR


Snowblowers and snowmobiles.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

all jokes aside. i farm all summer and winter only thing seems people are buying is snowblowers and snowmobiles. So i try to spend my time "grabbing" junk i can either get running or restore. I do grab ones like that all the time. But they generally need nothing but a new home and the basic TLC. oddball wormgear, belts and such. up until now i touched up painted them but trying to refinish as many as i can before the cold to make em look as nice as they actually are. just a way for a farmer to stay warm in the winter


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if i am throwing something out it has more than a carb issue or minor issue.usually they will have multiple large issue and even then i will keep parts off them. the dual shaft engines are not that valuable around here. i see people trying to get $100 for dual shaft engines and they usually sit and even then they are easily found if you know machines. i like fixing machine but i still usually do it on a budget. for $400 you could buy a nice used snowblower so spending $350 on a new engine seems like a bit much. that whole used tractor i bought for $80. if i had to buy all the parts it came with it would have cost me a lot more. the only issue with the tractor when i got it is 1 broken trigger for trigger steering and dirty fuel system. i mainly wanted it for the taller chute but the rest like heated handle bars, slightly bigger engine and trigger steering is a bit of a bonus. there was no issue with the briggs & stratton i just wanted to make my machine better. 

if you need dual shaft engines this is available. this is equivalent to about a 8hp engine. 








Briggs & Stratton Engine 11.5tp Snow Professional Series 3/4" Shaft w/ Auxiliary PTO #15C194-3018


Briggs & Stratton Engine 11.5tp Snow Professional Series 3/4" Shaft w/ Auxiliary PTO #15C194-3018



www.brandnewengines.com


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)




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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> if i am throwing something out it has more than a carb issue or minor issue.usually they will have multiple large issue and even then i will keep parts off them. the dual shaft engines are not that valuable around here. i see people trying to get $100 for dual shaft engines and they usually sit and even then they are easily found if you know machines. i like fixing machine but i still usually do it on a budget. for $400 you could buy a nice used snowblower so spending $350 on a new engine seems like a bit much. that whole used tractor i bought for $80. if i had to buy all the parts it came with it would have cost me a lot more. the only issue with the tractor when i got it is 1 broken trigger for trigger steering and dirty fuel system. i mainly wanted it for the taller chute but the rest like heated handle bars, slightly bigger engine and trigger steering is a bit of a bonus. there was no issue with the briggs & stratton i just wanted to make my machine better.
> 
> if you need dual shaft engines this is available. this is equivalent to about a 8hp engine.
> 
> ...


I was mostly being sarcastic. But i have found my share of engines that needed nothing more than some sea foam and throwing the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner. Im often surprised by people that throw some things away. often i dont find value in getting them running so often i will part things out, save pulleys etc. some of the ST and such i just repower and send on their way. Typically depends on the models liek ariens i always find with blown engines, mtd and the likes i seem to find where they need something internally. They give up on their first rusted nut kind of deals.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

Honestly after dealing with Cub Cadet in the past, dealing with MTD, Now dealing with generac/dr power on a new snowblower. I dont think i will ever buy a new piece of equipment again. I will let some other group of suckers be a corporations quality control and just keep working on the junk that stands the test of time. I can buy used stuff off facebook to be treated like trash. So honestly i dont think i will ever give a dealer another dollar of mine on anything new ever again. spark plugs and belts. Thats all im buying from dealers now. 


i spent more time and lost more money dealing with this new snowblower. Than it would have cost me to repower this one and fix a junker. I did the time sheet and can 100% quantify buying a new snow blower was the worst option in comparison to the $500 used white. or even the $150 used white in this thread i just refinished.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

some people would rather just buy new than fix old because they figure fixing old is sometimes more expensive which can occasionally be the case especially if you can't do the work yourself. $350 engine plus labor installing it would likely be $500+ job and $500 is a pretty big dent towards a new machine or the cost of a nice used machine. i have even been given some machines that need nothing other than a new home. some people just don't want to deal with the headache of selling the machine. 

i would probably never buy new either. they just depreciate in value way too much unless you get a brand name like honda and actually take car of it. i don't think i have ever spent over $100 on a snowblower. heck i usually like to stick to $50 or less unless it looks like a nice enough machine to justify spending $100.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> some people would rather just buy new than fix old because they figure fixing old is sometimes more expensive which can occasionally be the case especially if you can't do the work yourself. $350 engine plus labor installing it would likely be $500+ job and $500 is a pretty big dent towards a new machine or the cost of a nice used machine. i have even been given some machines that need nothing other than a new home. some people just don't want to deal with the headache of selling the machine.
> 
> I would probably never buy new either. they just depreciate in value way too much unless you get a brand name like honda and actually take car of it. i don't think i have ever spent over $100 on a snowblower. heck i usually like to stick to $50 or less unless it looks like a nice enough machine to justify spending $100.


i spent $1100 and change on this machine
I spent $20 roughly to pick it up. 
I spent 4 hours of my time

Now the machine was missing parts
Those parts I bought off the shelf at the same place for about $20 
gas was another $20 
another 8 hours of my time
I now had to spend 14-18 hours on the phone over a $18 headlight. because they wouldn't even acknowledge the product existed. 
which they wanted me to drive 4 hours away to a service center to get the $18 headlight installed. I dont even care about the hand warmers cause i have 4 sets of them brand new. So i was going to take the 1 defective one off put a new one on. But still all that work im having to do after buying new. 
Factor in my hourly rate for my business or my shop time. I just lost almost 3x the value of this piece equipment because i bought new. 

it took half a dozen emails to 2 companies executives for me to even be acknowledged by the company as more than a joke. 

You start putting it all on paper. when you have everything on hand to do a job. Vs going out and buying the unknown. I could have built and restored 4-5 blowers in the time i wasted on this one new blower. On paper if you factor in nothing else it seems like $300 engine and a $50 blower and $100 in parts and $100 in labor is terrible. But at the end of the day. Will beat whatever i can throw $550 at brand new. depriciation aside

literally, that amount of time i wasted on this new one was the time i needed to finish the diesels headgasket on the farm. So me buying new took away the 2 days i had set aside for that in my schedule. Money can be made time can never be given back. 


Now that cub cadet we bought 7 months in a repair center. My cub cadet tiller the part is still not being manufactured for almost 18 months. This january I will get it. By the time I get the part, the warranty will have been over for 12 months. I actually bought a brand new cub cadet took the part right out of the transmission in the parking lot and returned it right on the spot. Because that was the only way to get the part we needed. some how they have the parts to sell new, but not to warranty. So my experience with new equipment is 100% never again. I wouldnt buy new if you gave me the money. Id says "Let's go spend this money on something we can trust". 

Now there are hometown dealers I can goto but im paying $300-800 more than a big box store. You know at least then everything is working, they may help you out. 


I get what you are saying. But my experience with new equipment is, im their quality control. Im left holding a giant overpriced paper weight when its all said and done. At least with used equipment whatever you do. Generally, the lemons are all phased out after 10-20 years. 


But to all of those points, I haven't spent $300 on an engine. Every engine I have most I have in them is $30. 

But this white I have $150 in it (really I got a rider, push mower, and this for $300) so let's just say $150, I have about $20 in the paint. about 4 hours in labor if you count the fact I put the blades on backward and had to take it all apart and redo it and I was done when I noticed it. maybe $15 in belts, friction wheel rubber replacement. 

Now if I did the conversion I have the flywheel to convert it from a free parts one. I have a $300 engine I got for $30. But if I put a 12hp or 13hp. whatever for that cheap value. get the Ariens running that I have for free. Between em both im doubling my money or better. 

But I also live in an oasis. You have to drive an hour or two for anything. There aren't people selling used stuff unless it's 4x what it's worth and the road into the ground and salted to death. So when you can turn equipment into good equipment it's an oddity for this area. the U.P. is full of junk rarely a gem. So my motto is all I have to do is provide better junk than everyone else and so far it isn't hard. another thing i will point out is abut 80% of snowblowers wont last a season. So buying an oddball unit this or that. Would be the real waste of time. because most units are made for sidewalks and cities and 6-12" of snow. So its more finding the ones that can actually handle 200 yards of gravel driveway with 2-4ft of snow. if not you just find yourself tearing the machine to pieces. last year i had to blow for people a few dozen times with blowers because their blowers could not handle real depth. 

its my experience 3 used snowblowers a year is still cheaper than 1 plow truck for most people in my area.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

I should note lots of times i get the engines off blowers because people need replacement augers that are rusted out from all of their salt. They throw down salt then blow and wonder why its all rusted out. So i tend to have a small market for that currently. So lots of times i take the engines right off gut the insides ebay it. Keep the engines. A few of the engines i've gotten on trade for equipment. So none of them are retail to me. Most i tend to have in equipment tends to be in machines. That white for $500 is probably the most i've dropped on one, but that thing was mint condish

I have about 45 engines. By april i will have less than 20. Last year i moved about 50 8hp tecumseh. this year went away from 8's and went bigger since i felt i lost more money on the people who wanted 10s and higher so made a few trades this year on better stuff. that and the fact i dont think most of them will fail so doubt i will get them as a return on a 8hp


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

btw thats me saying i agree with you 100% i forgot to put that in there. I agree fully that my money was wasted and that most projects will be futile


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

Great discussion and comments all around. Agreed, I'll never buy new as everything seems all to be about a price point. Forgot to mention that I sold my 25 year old old MTD 8/26 w/ the dual shaft engine for $200 given that it was in decent shape and had the upgrades. That was about 40% of the purchase price of my latest used blower.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

funny enough i just bought a dual shaft machine yesterday for $25 and the guy was telling me it cost him $1000's when he bought it many years ago. i don't know if it runs or not but it was definitely worth more than $25 in parts.it is not quite as fancy as your whites machine but looks very identical other than no trigger steering or heated handle bars.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> funny enough i just bought a dual shaft machine yesterday for $25 and the guy was telling me it cost him $1000's when he bought it many years ago. i don't know if it runs or not but it was definitely worth more than $25 in parts.it is not quite as fancy as your whites machine but looks very identical other than no trigger steering or heated handle bars.


this is the first time I've ever seen the dual trigger of whites. I know the mtd triggers existed. I've seen models I could never make a deal on. I've always come across the base model white/MTD units that are just what you describe for the most part. I will say if you plan to do work on it, I would definitely make sure to do the impeller mod.

the white 855 I think retailed for like $1600-$1800 and 1350 was like $2600-$2900 I saw on archived listings. But I think was also a higher quality back then was definitely a more diverse lineup where they all tried to compete with the likes of honda, while not really competing. Was more the market space for brand-loyal people I imagine. Look at how much they were getting for riders back then. Price of entry level cars these days. 

Ive seen lots of these models like my white 1350 but again none have the triggers. So IDK where they were popular region wise. Could be just such good models for the people who care for them they stay running. 


I always felt there is something to be said for the fact you see the same models over and over and over again for sale. Not so much the ariens cause I find most people get rid of them for "newer, better" vs junk. but I see some of those mtd, yardman, crafstmas, toro models every single time, with same failures. Doesnt matter when you look online what time of year. will see those same streams. I think what I've learned is starting to look for the models i never see. Those tend to be the best ones in my experience. Like how every time I see an "arctic storm" model etc. Those tend to have the triggers. ive tried to scoop em up a few times but people still want used retail. only seen a handful i'd buy but even then never get them in time. I tend to figure out the ones I want to be based more on the ones I never get these days. like every time I look at a crafstman i think. 'Every time I've worked on a crafstman the bolts are rusted out and half of em snap off'. Literally every craftsman i've worked on same thing with the bolts.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ya i don't think options like trigger steering was that common on older machines since it was likely a more expensive machine and most times even the machine without that option was not cheap when new. it is part of the reason i am build my own machine. make it how i like with the options i want. i wasn't expecting to do it quite so quickly but lucked out. 

some older machines are definitely better built than the new ones. i use to have one i probably should have kept in 1 piece lol. it has a differential so it steered very nice. i still have the tractor body/wheels/differential assembly but non of the tractor internals. was thinking about using it for a gas powered wheelbarrow or something like that.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> ya i don't think options like trigger steering was that common on older machines since it was likely a more expensive machine and most times even the machine without that option was not cheap when new. it is part of the reason i am build my own machine. make it how i like with the options i want. i wasn't expecting to do it quite so quickly but lucked out.
> 
> some older machines are definitely better built than the new ones. i use to have one i probably should have kept in 1 piece lol. it has a differential so it steered very nicely. I still have the tractor body/wheels/differential assembly but non of the tractor internals. was thinking about using it for a gas-powered wheelbarrow or something like that.


in my other post for my "what's the most HD transmission" i was talking about that. have a neighbor who has a snowblower trans and he made a wood dump cart of sorts. can haul a 1/4 or better face cord of wood at a time. he even upgraded it to garden tractor chevron tires. what kind of inspired the drag blade/box blade project. I use my snowblowers as graders in the summer. so why not use the grader to grade on a snowblower.

I also think I'm going to build a custom snowblower. I searched the internet and no one has done what i want to do that i can see documented. So may be a fun project to create some content.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well i don't think a snowblowers friction drive would be very good for HD use. they are for lite use only. if i build one i will most likely use centrifugal clutch and chain drive or build a small electric hybrid machine.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> well i don't think a snowblowers friction drive would be very good for HD use. they are for lite use only. if i build one i will most likely use centrifugal clutch and chain drive or build a small electric hybrid machine.


we will see, I agree. but sometimes you just go with what you have. I thought about using a hydrostatic one. but then the same thing possibly.

I look at it like this, Some of those friction drive systems push blowers that 300-400lbs+snow, etc, etc. I'm not really expecting to exceed that weight. I know lots of that is in the trans, engine, etc. I don't think it would work to cut ground or anything. But move it around. I think it could do that. Might go through some friction discs. But that's not the end of the world to add one of those on to seasonal maintenance if it works. When you factor in the use of a larger piece of equipment with more expensive components. The wear and tear end up being cheaper given the lower value of components to replace. That's why i love snowblowers. Sure I could beat my diesel to death. Or I can run snowblowers to their maximum! Still ends up being cheaper on paper. That's why they make great fun projects.

ideally, id want a garden tractor to walk behind the setup. but since I don't have any of those laying around


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

I suppose that adds the question is it better placed on the front to drag in reverse, or on the back to go forward. so you can lean into it like a plow disc. extend the controls and bars back maybe?

I have seen one's converted to plows, clean entire driveways with less than 6" of powder. Can't be worse than plow conversion in my mind. edit: in the city, paved. Not my driveway


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well snowblowers are not really meant to push snow. they are meant to throw it as you go so anything more than that would put extra stress on things like the friction drive which would likely may it wear out quicker.

this is the friction plate on a dual shaft engine. if you wanted to swap to single shaft engine the easiest way to do it would likely be to install the frictions plate and belt from a single shaft machine. the plate would likely be cheapest to find on a used junk machine. pretty sure it should just bolt on.








this is a single shaft drive plate. notice how the pulley on it is larger than the dual shaft pulley. otherwise both look identical inside.


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## yooperWildCat (Oct 28, 2020)

Yeah, I have a friction disc pulley that is the larger one listed previously in this thread. i may attempt it with. yes, it does appear to be bolt in swap over with the whole plate. Have not considered the needs for the auger with single or dual. But i will keep you posted. Im on my way to pick up some more equipment today. So when I get back to the bench & this one cycles back ill get to it. I actually may end up leaving it with the dual output as i found a 9&10hp off a mtd. That may just be a matter of swapping pulleys. im going to go look at a mtd 11.5 today but i dont think im going to make a deal on it.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i believe dual auger belt single shaft setups are available. i have worked on more of them than dual shaft engines


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