# New guy, old machine.



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Hello, new here. Picking up an old Toro 1132 on Sat. Paid for it today, but didn't have my trailer. Paid $50, not running been sitting for ? Engine not locked up, so that's a plus. Looks like it's all there, though I didn't know off the bat what to look for. Hoping to save the motor, but I can swap it out easy enough if need be. Drive system looks odd compared to what I had on my Cub Cadet. Two knobs, one on the right one on the left are for turning? I dunno? 3 forward 1 reverse. I forgot my phone but I can steal a pic from the ad. It needs help.


----------



## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

Welcome to the forums! That's a big beast you have there! I don't know much about that one, but hopefully someone here can send you in the right direction. Solid looking machine!


----------



## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* Fix it up and it will serve you well. CALL ME out here if you need anything. k:k:k:k:k:*


----------



## SAVAGE420 (Apr 21, 2015)

Awesome!! I have the same beast.
They run forever and then some. Mine is a 1980.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I would have paid $50 for it but not much more, well worth $50, but only because of its age and the work it will need. Many on here are still using that machine because of the quality and just keep it running. Check for rust in the metal gas tank and keep it filled to prevent rusting.


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

For $75 I'd have been all over that blower. Heck. I'd have gone $100.
That's a ratblower.:wink2:


----------



## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

I have an 826 of the same vintage. Got it fixed up and running this summer, waiting for snow to try it out.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF Rob


.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Thanks for the reminder on the gas tank.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Thanks to all for the comments thus far.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Got it home. Raining and crappy. Step one is drain oil and replace, get a new plug, gas line, gas filter, remove the tank and look for NOS or generic replacement. Then try to get it running.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Glad to hear you got her home. Now the fun begins !!

.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Oil looks very clean. Gas tank is empty and very rusty inside. Ran the #s and it appears to be a 1979 with a Briggs.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Cool factoid: Amazon sells brand new steel gas tanks. Yippie!


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Ordered carb kit today. I'll invest $7 for that to see if it will run. If not, Harbor Freight will be the next step unless I can find something else reasonable. Don't wan't to toss a whole bunch of cash at it if I don't need to.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Update: New plug, ran propane into carb while cranking. No dice. Tried choke in all positions, either not enough propane getting in or no spark. Got cold and bored. Spark check tomorrow.


----------



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Welcome Rob
Might be a good time to check for spark. 
Before you head off to Harbor Freight see if that Briggs is a single or a dual shaft. Could be a game changer.
I've never tried propane before, but I've used starting fluid on more than one project like yours just to see if it will try to run.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

dbert said:


> Welcome Rob
> Might be a good time to check for spark.
> Before you head off to Harbor Freight see if that Briggs is a single or a dual shaft. Could be a game changer.
> I've never tried propane before, but I've used starting fluid on more than one project like yours just to see if it will try to run.


I'm checking spark tomorrow. Used to use propane on old motorcycles, figured i'd try it.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Checked spark in a dark garage. No spark.


----------



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Rob...that old Briggs has points....PITA to get to and shine. Take a coil from any modern Briggs single cylinder....I have a lot of blown 18 hp lawn tractor engine which is what I use.....bolt it on after cutting the wire from the old coil and removing..,.and you got spark! I've changed all my old Briggs motors over....a good move.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

cranman said:


> Rob...that old Briggs has points....PITA to get to and shine. Take a coil from any modern Briggs single cylinder....I have a lot of blown 18 hp lawn tractor engine which is what I use.....bolt it on after cutting the wire from the old coil and removing..,.and you got spark! I've changed all my old Briggs motors over....a good move.


Sounds like a plan! Thanks!


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Electronic ignition inbound.


----------



## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Just my opinion,but if that were my machine,I'd spend a little money on that Briggs engine if it has good compression and is in decent overall shape.Those old flathead Briggs were torque monsters,especially compared to the Tecumsehs.I wouldn't Harbor Freight it unless I had to.


You can get after-market carbs(and other parts) pretty cheap for them now.


The best blower I ever used was a first gen.Snapper 826 with a L-head,8hp Briggs.My Allis and both my Ariens 824s with 8hp Tecumsehs are gutless pigs by comparison.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Working on it. Not giving up yet.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Holy crap. Just went out and hit the start button and the pressure coming out of the spark plug hole blew back my hair. Puppy got some healthy compression. Wish I could find my tester, but I'd say right now it's good.


----------



## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Briggs never went out of their way to publish figures for compression testing.They stated that if you removed the pull starter,grabbed the flywheel,gave it a quick spin BACKWARDS and it "bounced smartly" in the other direction-it was good.You also have to keep in mind these engines have a built-in decompressor for easy starting.The numbers from a compression tester will seem low because of this.


A healthy Tecumseh will show about 70 pounds+ or so minimum.Of course,at running RPMs,the decompressor disengages and compression rises accordingly.


Would you happen to have the model number off the tag on the chassis?I have a service manual for the older Toros but only refers to each model by that 5-digit number.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Mike C. said:


> Briggs never went out of their way to publish figures for compression testing.They stated that if you removed the pull starter,grabbed the flywheel,gave it a quick spin BACKWARDS and it "bounced smartly" in the other direction-it was good.You also have to keep in mind these engines have a built-in decompressor for easy starting.The numbers from a compression tester will seem low because of this.
> 
> 
> A healthy Tecumseh will show about 70 pounds+ or so minimum.Of course,at running RPMs,the decompressor disengages and compression rises accordingly.
> ...


Oh boy! That would be awesome! I think it is 38090. Thank you Mike!:smile2:


----------



## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Here is a link to the Toro website for manuals. I use it often as I have golf courses as customers and they all use Toro in their fleets. They share their manuals freely (unlike J/D) and are very thorough. Just have serial & model numbers handy.


https://www.toro.com/en/parts?SearchText=38510&SelectedFilterByOption=equipment

GLuck, Jay


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

Ok, so what if I had a pulley made with an extra groove and ran a gm type alternator for lights and a battery?


----------



## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Rob Okray said:


> Ok, so what if I had a pulley made with an extra groove and ran a gm type alternator for lights and a battery?



OMG - that sounds like a ton of work, with limited chance of success. Get battery powered lights, and be done with it.


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

it would probably be way easier to just stick a smaller 12v motor in there with a small belt and power lights or stuff off it. i doubt it would be hard for a small 12v motor to put out 100w to power a light or whatever you want. may just need a diode or something if you end up hooking it up to a battery to keep power from flowing back to the motor. now i wouldn't even consider an alternator. if your going to do it at least do it right and use a generator. then it can double as an electric start


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

New Ignition came in. Effing crap ass Amazon screwed me with a knock off version. No kill switch included.


----------



## Rob Okray (Nov 30, 2018)

crazzywolfie said:


> it would probably be way easier to just stick a smaller 12v motor in there with a small belt and power lights or stuff off it. i doubt it would be hard for a small 12v motor to put out 100w to power a light or whatever you want. may just need a diode or something if you end up hooking it up to a battery to keep power from flowing back to the motor. now i wouldn't even consider an alternator. if your going to do it at least do it right and use a generator. then it can double as an electric start


Already has electric start. Via extension cord and push button.


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well you mentioned powering lights and charging a battery with a alternator mounted on the snowblower. if your going to go that far minus well have a 12v electric start as an option. i know there has been a few times where i wouldn't mind having 12v electric start since plugs are not always easily available. older lawn tractors use to use generators for starting and charging.


----------

