# rust `bucket` :D



## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

ok so... down by the scrapper bar, both corners of my bucket are showing sings of rust (cracking of paint, cracking of the actual metal so on..) im convinced this needs attention sooner rather than later but not sure how to go abouts doing this myself (no access to a welder is a great inhibitor..).. any suggestions? 

also, the bracket holding the bushing for the chute control has started to crack at the weld on the bottom of it`s `L` section..a simple re-welding here or would adding a brace be wise too?

im torn by the resto-mod route (comeon! 33in bucket... repower with 16hp copycat engine.. pulleys.. impeller mod.. chute swap..u know  ) but well aware not fixing these issues means a very limited lifespan after dropping a couple bills


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Columbia is MTD (some Canadian version)?
We could probably offer more and better advice with photos. We like pictures.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

What is it you are working on ?? And yes, photos of the problem areas would really help in figuring out what repairs might be needed.


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

dbert said:


> Columbia is MTD (some Canadian version)?
> We could probably offer more and better advice with photos. We like pictures.


 I was told by the previous owner this was before MTD took over columbia.. however... the similarities in build and parts is uncannilly close  lol but the first winter i had this thong proved how good it could get... over 1200 ft drive.. yes 1200 feet in lenght.. hilltop so drifts 4 days after a sbnow are habbit.. one opens 20-25 feet width to have passage 2 days after the inital storm  room to park 6 cars by the duplex (old farmhouse converted top-bottom dwellings) so evem being a`common`machine... i like it.. and think since its a large frame, thick steel robust construction animal (not a true beast yet) it just might be worth it 

edit..

pics yeah.. will see if i can get problem areas to show up


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

What is it you are working on ?? Saying it's a "Columbia" is similar to saying Ford. What Columbia ?? What model number, engine and bucket width ??

At 1200 feet wouldn't you be better served with a rider ?? That's a long driveway for a walk behind.


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> What is it you are working on ?? Saying it's a "Columbia" is similar to saying Ford. What Columbia ?? What model number, engine and bucket width ??
> 
> At 1200 feet wouldn't you be better served with a rider ?? That's a long driveway for a walk behind.


i dont live there anymore which means i save 1 to 9 hours per snow lol, 

present drive is under an hour and a half at the worst this year (12-13in fall).. maybe 250 foot.. but couldnt swing the price at the time.. had 400$ budgetted for snow removal being a student and new father.. we had to stick to it  400$ didnt even cover half of contracting it out 1000-1200$.. but i digress lol

ill get a model number when i get pics.. but its a 33in cut with a 10 hp tec engine.. on its 2nd engine as this one has non-adjustable carb..


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

ok so i got pics sooner than i thaught!

model no 314 761 597 serial 669808
i didnt pick the engine specs off cuz we all know what a 10hp tec engine is i figure...

hmmm how to post pics.. they gotta be hosted elswheres right??

edit..

best I can do right now is tell you to go check my album.. tried caotionning the 6 pics of problem areas.. sorry for the poor shoot quality and caked on snow-ice


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If you hit the "Reply" or "Go Advanced" under the box for typing a reply is the place to attach pictures. You hit "Manage Attachments" and then when the next box appears you "browse" to the place on your computer you have the photos and select each photo you want to attach.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The "bottom right bucket damage" picture gave the clearest view of the damage, at least for me. 

Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums - Marty013's Album: 1984 Columbia - Picture

Short-term, I would drill a small hole at the end of any cracks. The sharp point at the end of a crack creates a stress concentration, and the crack will want to continue. 

Drilling a hole at the tip of the crack provides a radius, greatly spreading out the stress, and likely stopping the crack from growing. 

Welding along the crack could be a nice solution. Barring that, you might be able to try something like putting a piece of metal across it, and bolting it to both sides of the crack. But with this being in the bucket, you'd have to watch for clearance between any fasteners and the rotating augers, of course. 

I bought a MIG welder a few years ago. I don't have to use it all that often, but I have used it for a few snowblower repairs, including a cracked weld on a bucket. That would have been difficult to repair by other means. I also welded some plates onto the bottom of skid shoes that were close to wearing through, kind of gave them new soles  Harbor Freight sells inexpensive MIG welders for ~$100, so basic welders can be reasonably priced. 

You might be able to take the machine (perhaps just the bucket) to a shop that could weld up the cracks quickly for you? As for the bracket, you could add a brace if you wanted, would probably just be a question of cost by whoever would do it. Unless you could make & bolt something on yourself?


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

Red
octobyr.. what you welded up on a becket... how did the damage compare to this? and how is it holding up??.. im always worried itl crack again once welded up :S


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Mine was just a broken weld, not the sheetmetal itself. Where the side of the bucket meets the curved sheetmetal, at the bottom, by the scraper bar. 

It's been fine, but the machine has only had a small amount of use so far, unfortunately. If it cracks again (I'm guessing/hoping it won't), I will weld it up again, this time a little more "enthusiastically". Someone who does this professionally would doubtless do a better job than I did. 

I'm certainly no expert with it, but it's a very helpful tool to have available. It can make some repairs, or building simple things, much easier, and more robust.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I've always hosted my own photos, but going to see if you can insert photos from a SBF album into a post. It looks like it should work.








bottom left bucket damage, you can faintly see the crack thru icy snow

Edit. Yup, you can.
Edit 2, you can also simply link to your album
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/members/marty013-albums-1984-columbia.html


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Some might not agree with me but I have used some of the 2 part liquid metal (epoxy?)on things like that and had good success.

The cracks don't look that big from what I see.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That would be an easy weld job and it would stop it from spreading.
.
.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

Marty013 said:


> ok so... down by the scrapper bar, both corners of my bucket are showing sings of rust (cracking of paint, cracking of the actual metal so on..) im convinced this needs attention sooner rather than later but not sure how to go abouts doing this myself (no access to a welder is a great inhibitor..).. any suggestions?
> 
> also, the bracket holding the bushing for the chute control has started to crack at the weld on the bottom of it`s `L` section..a simple re-welding here or would adding a brace be wise too?
> 
> im torn by the resto-mod route (comeon! 33in bucket... repower with 16hp copycat engine.. pulleys.. impeller mod.. chute swap..u know  ) but well aware not fixing these issues means a very limited lifespan after dropping a couple bills


 
take 2 pieces of thin gauge steel angle iron, you can even bend it yourself from a piece of sheetmetal cut from an old appliance like a frig, stove, hot water heater, etc. cut a small rectangular shape, then bend it 90 degrees to form an "L" shape. Drill 2 holes on each side of the "L", and fasten that to the corners with pop rivets or nuts/bolts/washers. I'd use the latter method because it will hold better. You also have to drill the chute to match the brace you are making. Use tapered head flat screws on the inboard side, to countersink the fasterners a bit, if the heads of regular hex bolts stick up too far and hit the augers as they spin. If a hex hed bolt will clear the augers, use them.

after doing this bracket brace repair, adjust the shoes on the chute where it rides on the ground, to raise it up just a bit, so the bottom of the scraper bar/chute doesn't drag and scrap against the ground and clears the type of surface you are using the machine on. This adjustment will stop it from being heavily stressed from hitting something and trying to pull the bolts out of the chute corners.

you can also look in the phone book for mobile welding services, or go to your local car repair garage where they most likely have a stick or MIG welder- and have them weld repair it.

last resort, keep your eyes peeled for a spare parts machine with a good chute, and swap the chute onto your running machine.


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