# Hard to Start



## dhoward750 (Oct 28, 2019)

I have a six year old Platinum 24 blower. I had it tuned in Sept. It has become very hard to start now that winter is here. I was better off without the tuneup. I don't know what is causing it but I am thinking of keeping some starter fluid on standby just in case. So far I eventually get it to start but am worried that when we get a big storm it will not start. It cranks but does not turnover. After trying, off and on, for 10-15 minutes it finely catches and then runs fine. My question is: Where do I spray the starter fluid? Do I have to take anything apart to get to where I should spray. I know this is not a fix but I just want to get thru the winter first. If anyone can post a picture of where to spray it would be very helpful.


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## kimber (Dec 19, 2019)

Call the place that tuned it and tell them, you paid for their services and sounds like you didn't get what you paid for, I'd be pissed!
Are you running fresh fuel, 87 octane, stabilizer? 
Have you checked your plug, is primer bulb working, is there a fuel filter on it, did they kink fuel line changing it?
Look for the simple things first, it starts so must be something simple.


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## kimber (Dec 19, 2019)

Call the place that tuned it and tell them, you paid for their services and sounds like you didn't get what you paid for, I'd be pissed!
Are you running fresh fuel, 87 octane, stabilizer? 
Have you checked your plug, is primer bulb working, is there a fuel filter on it, did they kink fuel line changing it?
Look for the simple things first, it starts so its probably something simple. 
If its starting right up with starter fluid, it's possibly a clogged jet.


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## dhoward750 (Oct 28, 2019)

Yes. Your suggestions were already checked. I would like to try some starter fluid but as I mentioned I do not know where to squirt it or even if I have to remove something to gain access to the area that the starter fluid has to be applied. I am looking for someone who has a Platinum 24 and can maybe put up a picture for a non handy person that shows where and how to use the fluid.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Nope. Something definitely isn't right with your machine. Do so Youtube searches. Doneyboy73 has some great vids on repairs.


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## LostinMaine (Dec 10, 2017)

To start it via this method, the best way would probably be to take the shroud off that gains you access to the spark plug. Pop the cable off the back of the spark plug, unscrew the plug, spray some into the hole, put it all back together, and start it. Not exactly a quick way to do it, but works in a bind.


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## AriensProMike (Dec 2, 2014)

How old is the gas in it? If you are not sure. I would drain it and start with new gas let it run for a while. Then check it again the next day with a cold start.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i agree with @kimber if you had a shop do the tuneup. and @AriensProMike idea

it is probably a simple fix if it eventually starts. may be flooding due to choke or float not working right toshut off gas to carb.

on a honda you remove the top cover to carb to spray starting fluid for intake but it's not a good habit to do this all the time. could harm things.

better off fixing it .


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## johnwick (Dec 16, 2019)

Again, how old is the gas and was it stabilized? 

Before being upset with the place that tuned it up, remember 4 full months have passed. E10 unstabilized gas could be the culprit for hard starting. I suggest draining the fuel in the tank and carb and then start with fresh. The starter fluid is fine but this could be something easily remedied and something you don’t have to jigger with or worry about the rest of the winter.


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

it almost sounds like you have a broken primer line, check the bulb end the line itself and the carb end for dry rot


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## dhoward750 (Oct 28, 2019)

The gas was drained during the servicing and some tru fuel was put in. I was told add gas just before having to use it which I did. I did not even buy the gas until a few days before needing it and I put fuel stabilizer in it. I thought starter fluid would be a quick spray somewhere but apparently not without taking something apart. I will keep researching and trying different things. Anyway thanks for the advice.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

dhoward750 said:


> The gas was drained during the servicing and some tru fuel was put in. I was told add gas just before having to use it which I did. I did not even buy the gas until a few days before needing it and I put fuel stabilizer in it. I thought starter fluid would be a quick spray somewhere but apparently not without taking something apart. I will keep researching and trying different things. Anyway thanks for the advice.


Attached is a pic of my Platinum showing the valve cover and to the right the red primer bulb. Just above the primer bulb you should see two bolt heads which attach the heater cover to the carb inlet and the manifold. You need to target the area with the two bolts from above since the lower area is blocked off. I think you have two areas to spray into, the area to the right of primer and spray upward; the other is near the exhaust into the top of cover horizontally toward the carb. You would be trying to flood the area with spray. 

Before spraying you must open the carb bore by opening the throttle and the choke. Open throttle control to full throttle so the governor will open throttle plate fully and keep it open. The choke needs to be in the "NO choke" position. Spray generously, and with ignition on pull starter rope vigorously. 

Good luck.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I have heard many times of people taking a perfectly good running machine, and they think they have to "service" it somewhere, only to have it came back in worse condition.

Using Starting Fluid (ether) should be a last resort. not good to run any engine on that stuff. You should not have to take anything apart, just spray it wherever the air intake comes into the carb.

These machines are more than capable of being maintained by the owner. Heck, I think most, if not all of my early blowers from the 70's still have the original plugs in them. There is no air filter usually on a winter snow blower. The owner can certainly perform the greasing a instructed by the manual, using common sense. Simply put, keep it maintained, cleaned and waxed for protection, checking all bolts and making any cable/rod adjustments, only if necessary.


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

Starter fluid! Heck, I have successfully used that stuff for years, just be careful to avoid an enclosed area, best it used while the machine is outdoors. I have a can of it on my garage shelf to use when needed.

Starter fluid has helped me start my chainsaws, lawnmowers, high pressure water sprayer even one of my older outboard engines. Just simply spray the stuff into the carburetor's air intake.

Never needed the stuff on my snowblowers with electric start. Just cranked them until they ran.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I keep a couple of machines that I use for the driveway in a shed with no electricity, and I keep a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner on the shelf next to them. In the chonda powered one, I just unscrew the aircleaner housing and give a squirt.....on the Tec powered one, I drilled a hole in the air shroud to allow the straw from the carb cleaner to shoot directly into the carb. Gas looses it volatility as the Benzene evaporates making small engines hard to start with stale fuel.....once started they can continue to run, so a little boost after setting saves a lot of work.


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## Newf1986 (Jan 2, 2020)

What do you mean by it "cranks but does not turn over" ? Are you using the electric starter and it is spinning but not turning the engine over ?


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## 88-tek (Nov 5, 2017)

Any small engine can become grumpy to start if it sits for several months, even with treated gas. When that happens, I use a very small amount of this handy can of juice to make it easier to get going. Sure beats yanking the **** on the starter rope a few billion times. :wink:


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## hammer6315 (Dec 15, 2019)

I've found on my Ariens, even with the choke fully 'on', if the primer button has not been pushed you can crank it til the cows come home and it will not start. I heard tell that some 'chokes' do not fully close even in the max position. (I like the way they have pictures on all of the controls.....must be for the illiterate)


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## duane4238 (Dec 6, 2015)

All good suggestions from well intended members, but back to your original question I'd say TAKE IT BACK! You paid for a service and the machine isn't working properly. It's probably something very minor, but you shouldn't have to deal with it. Take it back and get it fixed. Then follow all the great suggestions offered to you on this forum. Good luck and happy snowblowing.
Duane


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## ghostdog1108 (Nov 16, 2014)

Air cleaner has to come off. A quick squirt into the carb should do the trick!


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

cranman said:


> i keep a couple of machines that i use for the driveway in a shed with no electricity, and i keep a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner on the shelf next to them. In the chonda powered one, i just unscrew the aircleaner housing and give a squirt.....on the tec powered one, i drilled a hole in the air shroud to allow the straw from the carb cleaner to shoot directly into the carb. Gas looses it volatility as the benzene evaporates making small engines hard to start with stale fuel.....once started they can continue to run, so a little boost after setting saves a lot of work.




i like that straw idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Try this. Press the primer bulb firmly, quickly, and leave your thumb on the depressed bulb for two additional seconds. Then do it again. Three times. 

If it's cold (below freezing), five times. 

Its important to press the bulb all the way down and then hold it for a couple of seconds.


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## hammer6315 (Dec 15, 2019)

ghostdog1108 said:


> Air cleaner has to come off. A quick squirt into the carb should do the trick!


On my older, tired, Ariens, (1960's vintage), I drilled a hole (as was suggested) to facilitate insertion of the plastic straw into the throat of the carb. This did the trick. On these new models, it night be more difficult to access the carb.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Newf1986 said:


> What do you mean by it "cranks but does not turn over" ? Are you using the electric starter and it is spinning but not turning the engine over ?


ha, was wondering same thing


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

That is a common problem with the little primer line from the bulb to carburetor going bad or breaking. 
Also it may have never been connected in the first place or fell off.
That little rubber hose doesn't carry fuel, it only carries air. When you pump the bulb, it pumps air into the fuel bowl to pressurize the bowl, and the air pressure forces the fuel up through the main jet and into the venturi of the carburetor as raw gas to give it the "Rich" condition to help start the cold engine.
If there is any leak around the fuel bowl, like a bad bowl gasket or a tiny pin hole in the bowl above the fuel level, it will not allow the bowl to become pressurized to force the fuel up into the carb venturi, and if the fuel level is set too low by the float being out of adjustment or swollen needle seat, that can also cause the problem.
If it was just tuned up and the needle and seat replaced, they may not have replaced it properly.
Just a few simple minor things to check.


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## dhoward750 (Oct 28, 2019)

As a followup for this thread I had to replace the electric starter. The noise that I was hearing was just the spinning and it was not engaging the motor. All is well now.


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