# What size screws got to the heat guard?



## mkuszek (Feb 18, 2016)

I have an Ariens 11.5 28 about 10 years old with the Snow King engine.
The guard that wraps around the engine has vibrated the 2 screws out and I need to replace then. It is the guard that is behind the orange key and wraps to the front also. Is it a machine or self tapping screw (both)?
What size is it?
Thanks in advance


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

mkuszek said:


> I have an Ariens 11.5 28 about 10 years old with the Snow King engine.
> The guard that wraps around the engine has vibrated the 2 screws out and I need to replace then. It is the guard that is behind the orange key and wraps to the front also. Is it a machine or self tapping screw (both)?
> What size is it?
> Thanks in advance


Take out one of the others that's still there, and see if they fit, or if the holes where they go have corroded and won't hold them. If they fit, just take one of the existing ones to the hardware store and get a couple more. They look like self tapping sheet metal. If the holes are too loose, get the next size larger diameter shank so they will cut new threads and stay tight. Make sure the new ones are not too long and hit something behind the shroud that they should not hit.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

I believe it's a #10 sheet metal screw. Try using a star washer under it to make it less vibration prone to rattling out.


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## mkuszek (Feb 18, 2016)

Skutflut - There are no screws to take out to compare and duplicate. They are all missing.
bad69cat - Are you SURE it is a #10 sheet metal screw and how long?
I don't want to put a self tapper or sheet metal screw in there if was a machine screw.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to the forum mkuszek

The one that goes into the recoil would need to be a sheet metal screw as there isn't anything behind the cover to screw something into. Needs to be short so it's not hitting the flywheel.

The other one that goes in near the dipstick tube should be a machine screw but I don't know the size.

Post the engine numbers and maybe we can look it up on an exploded parts diagram ??


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Not 100% sure it could be a #12? I think the diagram will only give you a part number though..? I have use self tapers for those before though. I think that may actually hold up better in the long run honestly. (fine threaded ones)


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

mkuszek said:


> Skutflut - There are no screws to take out to compare and duplicate. They are all missing.



There is a hex head screw in the muffler shield just above, and another to the right side, holding the other end of the bracket. Those should be a gauge as to what you need to replace the missing ones with. Is there a slot with a speednut under that shroud for the screw to go through, or a hole.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I think the correct size is #6 x 1/2".


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

I put Loctite on all the hardware on my blower to keep it from loosening.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I would be 100% sure that the heads of those screws did not corrode off, before anything else.


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## KennyW in CT (Feb 24, 2015)

The one in front is usually a #10-24 thread, in the back by the flywheel the are normally 1/4-20.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

What ever size screw goes in fairly tightly not too long, and with a lock washer. I had the same problem, and I also put in a couple of screws where it meets the top part of the engine shroud, and it never came loose again.
Sid


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