# rust converter in impeller housing



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Going through a Ariens 1027 top to bottom and finally have everything out of the bucket, However the worst area is the impeller housing and I think I was going to try rust converter seeing how it actually gives it some extra rust prevention over just paint, Only concern is converter doesn't exactly give it a super smooth finish, I do plan to sand it a little smoother before paint but will still have a rougher finish in there, Do you think it will have a issue with snow wanting to stick to it, Or should I go through the work of trying to sand blast it with a small harbor freight sand blaster I have and see it I can clean it up and get it smoother. My thoughts were seeing where it gets the most abuse the paint will just end up getting scratched off and re rusting faster but the converter gives it a much harder surface to stop the scratches from hitting metal and re rusting. What are your thoughts?


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## Snow Gone (Jan 29, 2016)

I think I would sand the rough areas, paint with a rusty metal primer and then a finish coat. Rustoleum has a rusty metal primer that has worked well for me. If you are working in a cold area check the recommended temperature for application. If it is too cold the paint may not cure properly. Even if you are within the recommended temperature range, I would let the final coat of paint dry for 2 weeks before using the blower to let it harden up completely.


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## 524SWE (Jan 20, 2017)

if I had a sandblaster I'd use that next summer, for now I'd just spray it with oil and use it.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

I agree with your assessment that rougher areas are more likely to accumulate some snow and given the rust build-up in the impeller area that's probably what's been happening. I'd focus primarily on cleaning up the rusted areas then paint with something like POR-15. You'll be able to paint over it which will help smooth things out a bit.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Try the epoxy route. I used a ppg epoxy a while back on a Bolens snowblower. Sold it to a coworker and he is amazed at how it is holding up. It goes on thick and left a nice self leveling surface. Tough as heck too. Salt and chemical resistant as well. Don't use the cheap stuff. I used the two part mix and he claims the auger still looks just as good after two seasons usage on a partialy gravel drive.


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## toroused (Mar 1, 2015)

POR-15 is great stuff but the only issue is that I believe that you can't go over it with another paint. I may be wrong.

Another option would be to sand the rust off with a polycarbide Harbor Freight sanding wheel on HF $14 angle grinder - which will blast 
any rusted or weak paint areas off in a second - then go through a series of applying a rust converter like an Ospho, letting it dry, then 
re-sanding off any remaining rust. 

The below photo is from an initial polycarbide disc sanding on an old Gilson bucket. After using the disc, the metal on the was as shiny as 
could be and appeared to have removed all rust. However, after an application of Ospho, all the unknown rust in the pits suddenly was shown. I let this application 
of Ospho dry overnight - which condensed the amount of rust - then re-sanded it off in the morning. I did this series 1-2 more times, until all the 
rust in the pits was gone. 

I'm sure a bead blaster is better, but this was an extremely cheap and easy process. 

These HF polycarbide angle grinder discs are amazing. I took a whole bucket down - inside and out - 
in a litte more than an hour....

Link: Nylon Abrasive Wheel - 4-1/2" Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel


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## FearlessFront (Aug 18, 2016)

Dauntae said:


> Going through a Ariens 1027 top to bottom and finally have everything out of the bucket, However the worst area is the impeller housing and I think I was going to try rust converter seeing how it actually gives it some extra rust prevention over just paint, Only concern is converter doesn't exactly give it a super smooth finish, I do plan to sand it a little smoother before paint but will still have a rougher finish in there, Do you think it will have a issue with snow wanting to stick to it, Or should I go through the work of trying to sand blast it with a small harbor freight sand blaster I have and see it I can clean it up and get it smoother. My thoughts were seeing where it gets the most abuse the paint will just end up getting scratched off and re rusting faster but the converter gives it a much harder surface to stop the scratches from hitting metal and re rusting. What are your thoughts?


From my experience, the belly of the impeller specifically between the impeller and the belly is the most prone place for snow to stick and ice to form and freeze and it is the place where their is always constant motion and wear on the paint from snow and ice including the inside of the chute. Look on any snowblower that has worked hard for a few years and you will see the paint in the belly and inside the chute is typically gone, worn down to bare metal and if it's left that way rust forms, which is exactly what occurred with your machine. Even if you wax inside of their or spray it down with silicone at some point it wears off and snow will begin to stick in their, ice will form and freeze, especially if the temperatures are very cold or if they drop while you are in the middle of throwing snow. I have had flash freezing inside mine which caused the impeller to freeze and burn out a belt because I was out throwing snow, it got dark and the temps dropped fast and hard. Ice formed and it froze. The impeller could not move and my belt got all torn up. Now I carry a torch to melt that as soon as it begins.
If you plan on adding an impeller mod (rubber on the ends of the auger) it will be fine a little rough, in fact I encourage it because the rubber will constantly sweep that area clear, stopping any snow and ice from sticking in their and freezing.
That's your best bet and what I recommend you do.
If your not planning on adding the impeller mod, at least not right away, then you want everything as smooth and even and slick as possible from the bucket, the augers, the impeller, the impeller belly, both sides heading up to the chute and the inside of the chute and deflector. All of that needs to stay as smooth as possible for snow and ice to flow right off of it. Any type of rust, paint loss, rough surface or abrasion will slow down snow and ice from getting out of their and will make snow and ice prone to sticking and staying there and you will be constantly stopping to clear it. Nip it in the bud now and make sure everything is as smooth as possible or if you plan to leave it a little rough add the impeller mod. Note that the impeller mods constant sweeping of that area will wear paint down so your going to want as many coats as possible and a thick clear coat on top of that, for the paint to last as long as possible. The impeller belly and the chute always lose their coats of paint the fastest from constant motion of snow and ice. Good news is paint or no paint the rubber from the impeller mod will continue to sweep the area clear at all times so nothing can sit in their.
Make it as smooth as possible or add the rubber impeller mod to the auger blades. If its a 4 blade for example, 2 of 4 is usually ample, even resistance, if its a 3 blade all 3 blades for even flow and resistance. :smiley16:


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

As for using it, that is no issue, I still have a Snapper 6/22, This one is a project to get in good shape for next winter, Paid too much now that I see the issues but I'm this far into it so may as well finish and have something decent when I am done. Rustoleum has a rusty metal primer is actually a rust converter, And since I have the impeller out it is definitely getting the impeller mod as I did on my snapper. I'm thinking I may use the converter and smooth it up as much as possible and give the paint a good while to cure up before it's even put together. Going to start working on it this afternoon, Have to run to home depot for a few supplies and I'll get a pic if the bucket before and after, The paint I ended up getting is almost a perfect match and already started working on the chute, New paint is a little shineyer but a little wet sanding and polish will fix that right up after the fact so hopefully it comes out half decent. Thanks for all the replies and may end up taling down the rust but until I start I still am not sure what to do yet.


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## JerryD (Jan 19, 2014)

toroused said:


> POR-15 is great stuff but the only issue is that I believe that you can't go over it with another paint. I may be wrong.
> 
> Another option would be to sand the rust off with a polycarbide Harbor Freight sanding wheel on HF $14 angle grinder - which will blast
> any rusted or weak paint areas off in a second - then go through a series of applying a rust converter like an Ospho, letting it dry, then
> ...





I've been using POR-15 for a long time and I have painted just about everything over the top of it with no issues. Don't be afraid to paint the POR-15 on and just leave it, the stuff is just about bulletproof. I painted the underside of the mower deck on my JD Tractor 3 summers ago and the POR-15 is still there, It was bare metal when I painted it.


Jerry....


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## GregNL (Jan 9, 2017)

guilateen02 said:


> Try the epoxy route. I used a ppg epoxy a while back on a Bolens snowblower. Sold it to a coworker and he is amazed at how it is holding up. It goes on thick and left a nice self leveling surface. Tough as heck too. Salt and chemical resistant as well. Don't use the cheap stuff. I used the two part mix and he claims the auger still looks just as good after two seasons usage on a partialy gravel drive.


PPG Epoxy as in what exact product?

My brother often used epoxy resin over rust converter on heavily pitted metal where it was practically impossible to get to the core without damaging the panel or replacing steel. It always held up and worked great. I'm not sure if that's an option in the impeller housing but it would certainly give a smooth, sandable and durable surface that can also be painted.


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