# What is the year built for my dad's Simplicity?



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

My dad can't seem to remember the year he bought his Simplicity 860e. The mfg. number is: 1694433. The serial number is: 01241 (I think).

It's a nice machine, it certainly handles a normal snow fall without any difficulties. However, even with the DIY impeller kit I put on last winter, it still seems to clog in with heave/wet stuff.


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## Colored Eggs (Dec 7, 2012)

If you have a picture sometimes that can help in identification Also check the engine model number as well.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That should be an 8 hp unit so it has the power to handle the 24" cut. How does the auger belt look, is it sitting down in the pulley from wear causing slower speed?? Have you checked the impeller housing and chute to make sure it's smooth, no rust, rough surfaces, needs paint ?? Have you checked to see that it's set to the correct full speed RPM ?? Without the kit that thing should throw like a champ and with the kit . . . Any chance you're trying to move that stuff in high gear ??


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> That should be an 8 hp unit so it has the power to handle the 24" cut. How does the auger belt look, is it sitting down in the pulley from wear causing slower speed?? Have you checked the impeller housing and chute to make sure it's smooth, no rust, rough surfaces, needs paint ?? Have you checked to see that it's set to the correct full speed RPM ?? Without the kit that thing should throw like a champ and with the kit . . . Any chance you're trying to move that stuff in high gear ??



The belt has never been changed, although when I looked at it last year it didn't seem to have too much wear on it. I have thought about changing it since the machine has got to be about 13 years old. (I really don't lknow the age, which is why I originally asked.)

There is definitely rust inside the impeller housing, I'd guess about 15% - 20% of the surface has some rust. It doesn't seem like enough to make a difference.

I wouldn't know how to check or even adjust the RPM?


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## katsboytoy (Feb 3, 2014)

There is a "you tube" video for modifying the 2nd stage to never clog. He added pieces of rubber to the blades to minimize the gap between the blades and the housing. I have the video in my favorites but can't figure how to get it on this site.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Here is the video. He said he tried that already though.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Well , , , if it's clogging then it's time to do some things. If the belt is 13 years it's well worn and due for retirement. Just for reliability I'd change out the belt. Always easier to change it when you don't have to rather then waiting till it breaks and you are one pass down at the end of the drive.

If there's any rust there can be a source for added friction and it's always a good idea to knock it down and spray anything you can in there to protect it. You can always get picky about how well you prep it and what color you paint it in summer.

If you know a guy who works on cars it's likely he has a timing light with an induction pickup. You clamp the induction unit onto the spark plug wire and read the RPM with the motor at full throttle. You should have 3,600 RPM, some motors 3,800. Might want to look it up for youself.

One last thing would be to look at the impeller to see if one or all of the vanes might be bent.


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Does it matter where I buy the belt or will anything due that's not necessarily OEM?

I'll paint in the spring/summer. For now, he can spray some Pam in the chute and call it good enough.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

It doesn't matter where you buy it, just make sure to get the correct size and a Kevlar / Aramid cord. Regular automotive belts are meant to be constantly under tension and not torqued on and off all the time. Size is a width and a length. Some auto parts stores stock high torque belts as should any lawn more or tractor place.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

In some circles they are called "Power Rated Belts". Like Shryp said they are designed to slip and do so well. Automotive belts just burn up in short order.

I'm coming up with a 1/2 wide by 36" belt from your blowers model number.

OEM part number 1717393SM 4L, "V"belt about $17.

True blue belt P/N 248036

Stens 248-036

Gates power rated from Orielly auto parts P/N 6836

Autozone might have one too just not sure the brand they carry.

But you should check my work


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks Kiss4AFrog, I appreciate the leg work.

I already called my local Simplicity dealer just to make sure he had a belt in stock; he does. There's storm coming tonight, so it's too late to change it now, but there is another even bigger storm heading this way Sunday night. This looks to be one of my Saturday chores now.

Any idea on what year this machine was built?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I don't think you can date it from the machines model number but the engines numbers should give up a date of manufacturer and it's usually within two of that.
I don't know how to track that down but if you post the engine numbers someone else might be able to.


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