# HELP! Cannot get snowblower to start!



## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hi Community Members, hope you are all staying safe and healthy!

Just signed up to this forum, so apologies for missing any etiquette.

I am helping my neibour get their Tecumseh 5.5HP Craftsman snowblower going. This was donated to her a few years back, stopped working, had it serviced by someone in 2018 for which it worked a few times thereafter. Since then it sat for over a year (2019) in her garage and now we want to get it going again. She told me the reason why it sat and stopped using it was because it had difficulty throwing heavy/slushy snow and would clog the chute. This led me to believe the auger belt needed replacement. We replaced the belt, but but when we tried to start it up - it would not turnover - got nothing. Here is the diagnosing steps to date we have done so far:

Took the carburetor off and followed these youtube videos for cleaning it (used carb cleaner spray liberally - did not soak):




 (donboy73 - 4 part video)




 (Taryl Fixes All)
Note: the second video link shows more in-depth cleaning, taking out small components of the carb which I did not have the tools to perform so it was not done, but the carb looked pretty clean off the start which makes me believe it was part of the 2018 servicing done

Poured gas in the tank to initially start it up, so when we removed the carb we confirmed gas was coming through the fuel line
Checked primer line and confirmed air was being drawn from pressing primer button to draw gas in
Inspected spark plug - looked still pretty new and was probably replaced as part of 2018 servicing.
Tested spark plug by unseating it (from engine block), but kept it connected and confirmed spark was being created with pull cord
Hole where spark plug is seated had air passing through and could see it spinning inside

We noticed the gasket seal around the carb bowl had small bubbles appearing when priming, so thought that was our issue as that should not happen so we replaced the seal but still no luck
Hence now I am out of ideas what could be the issue with this blower and am hoping the community here can help suggest what I can try next to get this going. I keep remembering her say it turned on for her no problem the last time she tried (over a year ago). Any help/suggestions is really really appreciated. Dropped a couple pictures to help with the above.

Thanks so much and best regards!
-M


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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)

Does the spark plug appear to be dry after trying to start it? Sometimes when they sit a long time without starting, the cylinder is dry and does not create enough vacuum on the intake stroke to draw fuel in. If this is the case, you could try putting 1/2 a teaspoon of oil in the spark plug hole. When you try to start it, the rings should seal.


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Thank you for the quick reply strtch5881!
Yes, I forgot to mention the spark plug is dry when we were investigating - thank you. I read it should be slightly wet if fuel was entering the chamber correctly. 

I also forgot to write that we planned on changing the oil and wanted to run it for a few minutes to warm it up before draining it. But since it did not start - we have not changed the oil yet. 

I'd like to confirm a few things:
1) although it's old oil still sitting inside the engine - it should still start correct?
2) should I go ahead and still change the oil before trying again?
3) 1/2 teaspoon of oil or gas in spark plug hole? Wouldn't gas help as it's trying to draw in fuel to create combustion?

Please know I'm no expert on engines, I enjoy the hobby and am trying to learn as much as possible  appreciate your help!

Thanks so much!
-M


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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)

It would start no matter the age of oil. I prefer to use oil in the cylinder, which will seal the rings, create vacuum and compression. Gas will sometimes work too.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Spray very small amount of starting fluid into spark plug hole. Replace plug. Also spray a couple of quick shots into carb try to start. Report results


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

have you checked for spark?

that is the first thing i would do, you can crank an engine all day long, without spark, its not going to run,

after you confirm spark, i would go on amazon and buy a new carb for 20 bucks


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@MNC,

Indeed, as you mentioned you are getting spark, just get a new aftermarket carburetor ... only 12-18.00 ... and you'll be in business. 

There so cheap theses days , hardly worth the time to rip apart a carburetor anymore, unless its the 100-120.00 ones.

NOTE: always make sure you put the governor linkage and springs, as well as any other linkages and springs, back in the same holes. Marking or taking pictures helps immensely.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

he did mention that there is spark but i wonder how strong a spark plus the the plug is dry. so i would do what has already been mentioned. a little gas or starter spray in plug hole and carb. if it almost starts then that points to a fuel delivery problem to pickup tube.

thats a different set of issues that can be addressed later.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

All he has to do is pull the line feed to the carb for flow ...  .. no rocket science there.

I don't even bother with a carb anymore, since there so cheap to just replace ... I do keep the old ones on the shelf in case I need a part down the road though ... lol, ill throw them out when I get tired of looking at them ....


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hello,
Thank you so much to everyone who has contributed information thus far. Super helpful and really appreciate it!

I read above comments of either small amount of oil or fuel being added into the spark plug hole. 

Maybe I'll do both if there is no harm? Either way will report back later this evening after I get a chance to try this. 

Thank you again everyone!

Best regards,
-M


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

oneacer said:


> All he has to do is pull the line feed to the carb for flow ...  .. no rocket science there.
> 
> I don't even bother with a carb anymore, since there so cheap to just replace ... I do keep the old ones on the shelf in case I need a part down the road though ... lol, ill throw them out when I get tired of looking at them ....


you throw them out??????
make a piece of art with them and a welder. i only have one Costco bin full of carbs. afraid to throw them out. a thousand years from now they will be worth something. maybe buy 3 minutes of college for some family generations from now.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

MNC said:


> Hello,
> Thank you so much to everyone who has contributed information thus far. Super helpful and really appreciate it!
> 
> I read above comments of either small amount of oil or fuel being added into the spark plug hole.
> ...


You should understand what these suggestions mean. A little bit of oil first into the plug hole. Then pull the starter rope a bunch of times. This gives the oil a chance to coat the rings .

The reason for the gas or starter fluid is to see if it will almost start, It it almost starts you may have a blockage of fuel to your carb.

You can figure this out easy enough. If your carb bowl has a drain plug you can open it to see if there is fuel in carb. Or take the bowl off and see if gas flows into carb. Also you can check float function by pushing it up almost level and the fuel flow should stop. If not you have a flooding issue.

The reason fuel flow was suspect is because you reported that the plug was dry when you removed it. We all can only go on what you report,

If everything so far looks okay I would wonder if the main jet was clogged and not allowing fuel up the pick up tube.

When there is a no start problem you always go simple to more difficult. You need spark , fuel ,compression for starters, These are usually the issues. A clue with yours is that it was running okay last year? before it was stored?

If so this usually points to bad gas, or perhaps a clog somewhere. 

Then you move up the line from there.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Well written. Great advice.


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hi Folks!

Okay so there is progress! Here is what we tried and observed:

Added 1/2 teaspoon of oil in spark plug hole as per @strtch5881 suggested
Tried starting it a bunch of times with pull cord, no result

Added small amount of gas into spark plug hole (as suggested by a couple folks here)
Did this easily by pressing drain plug on carb bowl and captured it in a small water bottle (this confirms gas gets to the carb bowl right?)
After adding gas in spark plug hole, noticed pretty immediately gas dripping from the carb bowl but was not sure if it was from drain plug or another area of the carb
Pulled starter cord a few times on full choke, nothing happened
Tried same step repeatedly decreasing a step on the amount of choke in-between until choke was off and then ENGINE STARTED!, but quickly sputtered and died out
I did notice gas was spitting out of the carb area while I was pulling the card to start the blower
Was able to reproduce starting the engine momentarily by adding more gas in the spark plug hole
I tried once to hit primer button a bunch of times as soon as engine came alive to keep it going, but still died out

I hope this gives more clues on where the problem may be, and look forward to your feedback on suggestions on what we can try next!

Thanks so much again, really enjoying this forum already - much appreciate everyone's input and feedback!


Best Regards,
-M


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Gor sure you have spark. Unsure about compression and/or fuel. My guess would be no fuel, and either rebuild the carb, or replace it.


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## Jesse11B (Jan 27, 2020)

This has been a great diagnostic thread. Sure looks like you did your homework. Sure sounds like it’s a clogged carb.

Im not sure about the circuits/fuel pathways in this specific carb. But from I’ve learned the idle circuit supplies the majority of fuel supply when the engine isn’t under load. Maybe the idle circuit is occluded. Some carbs have an idle jet found beneath an idle adjustment screw, or Welch plug. Best of luck with the machine!

Mustie1 on YouTube is another great one to watch. He brings many machines back from the dead.


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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)

New carb.
I rebuild the originals because I have not had much luck with the aftermarket ones. I have a large ultrasonic cleaner which helps.


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

MNC said:


> I hope this gives more clues on where the problem may be, and look forward to your feedback on suggestions on what we can try next!


go read my first post again,

your solution is there


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

read all the posts again. if you want more advice you're gonna have to Paypal me $100


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the conclusion of this thread. 

Can anyone advise how to identify part # for new carb or provide link on Amazon? Would really appreciate it!

Thanks and best regards,
-M


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## Jesse11B (Jan 27, 2020)

Tecumseh Carburetors and Parts - 4-Cycle - Carburetors


Tecumseh Carburetors and Parts - 4-Cycle - Carburetors. We have the Tecumseh Carburetors and Parts - 4-Cycle - Carburetors You need with fast shipping and low prices.



www.jackssmallengines.com





Here’s a source for OEM carbs. You just need to find the model number on your tecumseh. Amazon would be cheaper.


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Thank you!

I will take it off tomorrow but I only see the part # in the picture listed (5285), but it doesn't look right. I'm assuming I'll see it on another side of the carb once I remove it ..?

Regards,
-M


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I'm betting it would be this one:








NEW Carburetor fit for Tecumseh 5HP MTD 632107A 632107 640084A Snow Blower HS50 | eBay


Replaces Part #: 640084 / 640084A / 640084B / 632107 / 632107A. Fits: For Tecumseh HSK40 / HSK50 / HSSK40 / HSSK50 / HSSK55 / HS50 / LH195SA / LH195SP Engine. 1 x Carburetor. We are committed to resolve all issues in a friendly and satisfactory manner.



www.ebay.com


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Welcome to SBF MNC. Code number 5285 is a Tecumseh carb part # 640084B, from this link- Tecumseh Carburetor Manufacturing Numbers (outdoorpowerinfo.com) and ebay has them pretty cheap Carburetor Carb Fit Tecumseh 5HP MTD 640084B 640084A HS50 HSSK50 Snowblower | eBay 

The carb on the machine LOOKS pretty new and would probably work again with a GOOD cleaning.
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh Series 1 Emission Carb 640084B (outdoorpowerinfo.com)


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

MNC said:


> Thanks everyone. I appreciate the conclusion of this thread.
> 
> Can anyone advise how to identify part # for new carb or provide link on Amazon? Would really appreciate it!
> 
> ...


what is the engine model number?

there should be a sticker on the engine, take a picture of it


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

all that was answered in the post's above you, about 11 hours before


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

captchas said:


> all that was answered in the post's above you, about 11 hours before


yes, i didnt see the second page of posts, until after i posted


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Thank you everyone! Super appreciate your help and the quick responses on the carb replacement I require: Code number 5285 is a Tecumseh carb part # 640084B 

Will order this today, and will post a final update - hopefully! 

Stay safe everyone!


Best Regards,
-M


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hi everyone,

Once again - can't thank this community forum enough for all your help! The replacement carb did the job! Changed the oil and blower turns on very easily and runs well!

We did notice one last thing that needs to get fixed, which is where this all started - the auger belt.

When we turn on the blower and it's sitting idling, the auger is actually engaged and blades rotating on it's own without engaging the auger handle!










I noticed that after we replaced the auger belt the tension for the auger handle is super tight! Comparing it to the drive handle which has some slack (see following two pictures):

















I am wondering how to adjust the tension for this? I presume it's something to do with this rod that connects to the auger handle, but was hoping someone can help provide any tip/guidance. Wondering if I need to take it apart to make any adjustments?









Thank you once again - and look forward to solving this last concern and considering this maintenance complete!

Best Regards Always,
-M


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

if the auger is spinning all the time, that normally means your auger cable is too tight, adjust so its more slack


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Could you post a picture of the belt routing. Sounds like the belt may be installed on the wrong side of an idler pulley.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Grunt said:


> Could you post a picture of the belt routing. Sounds like the belt may be installed on the wrong side of an idler pulley.


or wrong size


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hi folks,

Okay here is the auger belt I bought:









I felt this is how I saw the belt was routed and copied it as so:









The old bet had no # on it so I had to go by size, and felt these two were pretty close (may have chose slightly smaller with understanding the current is worn and weak):









I did notice even with it separated the auger handle is the same tightness. I engaged the auger handle many times to observe and felt the bottom sprint is quite tight:









Thanks folks - look forward to your feedback.

Best Regards,
-M


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hi Folks,

As an update I adjusted the idler pulley all the way outwards to provide less tension. Initially, that did stop the auger from automatically turning, and worked when I engaged the handle. However, this behaviour is not consistent and did find at times that even after we disengaged the auger handle, the auger still kept spinning.

This tells me there is still too much tension, and wondering where else I can loosen tension for the auger? - perhaps the cable underneath that connects to the auger handle? (picture above)

If the pulley is the only option then I am thinking I may have bought one belt size too small.

Any feedback is appreciated. I can take another pic of the routing now that I've put it all back together if we believe that helps tell the story.


Thanks!
-M


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

MNC said:


> Hi Folks,
> 
> As an update I adjusted the idler pulley all the way outwards to provide less tension. Initially, that did stop the auger from automatically turning, and worked when I engaged the handle. However, this behaviour is not consistent and did find at times that even after we disengaged the auger handle, the auger still kept spinning.
> 
> ...


there are two possibilities to your problem,

1 - your auger cable is adjusted too tight

2 - your auger belt is too short

do you have the model number of the snowblower?....with that info you could look up what length the belt should be

if you still have the old belt, cut the belt....lay it flat on a bench and measure its length from end to end


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

jerryvvv said:


> do you have the model number of the snowblower?....with that info you could look up what length the belt should be


Yeah, I can't believe we're 36 posts into this thread and STILL don't have the model number from the OP. Other forums like SmokStak REQUIRE the model & serial numbers in new threads. @*MNC *it's right here...


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

With the machine assembled and the belt at rest, is there enough slack where you can almost fit your finger between the pulley and the belt? If you have slack, my next guess would be the auger brake which I "assume" is the dowel pin in this photo. Maybe it is supposed to have a piece of rubber tube around it to rub on the auger pulley and stop rotation?


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hi folks,

Sorry I never posted model # - here it is:









@Grunt - there is no slack to put my finger under the belt when it's fully assembled. Makes me believe it's too short perhaps. The dowel pin you reference, I remember the belt being on the inside of the dowel. That dowel looks to be part of one large metal piece connected to the auger idle pulley above (check previous pics please). When I press the auger handle it moves the auger pulley inwards (dowel pin swings outwards) to create tension and engage the auger. Will check to see what I can find online for the belt length. Any feedback is appreciated.

Hope this helps. Best Regards,

-M


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

This link shows your auger belt as part number 37X120 and is a 1/2" x 35.6 inch length . I would try a 4L360 belt which is a 1/2" wide by 36" long.

C950-52205-0.pdf - Google Drive 

Is it possible to adjust the cable length under the black rubber spring protector?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Grunt said:


> This link shows your auger belt as part number 37X120 and is a 1/2" x 35.6 inch length . I would try a 4L360 belt which is a 1/2" wide by 36" long.
> 
> C950-52205-0.pdf - Google Drive
> 
> ...


@Grunt you're a real trooper on this one.........better man than me.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

orangputeh said:


> @Grunt you're a real trooper on this one.........better man than me.


Thanks Bud. Seems like most of the planet hates us and I figure we have to keep our Northern neighbors happy.
My grandson (5) adores John Cena and lives his life by his slogan - "Never Give Up".


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

here is the belt you need....









37X120MA Belt for Compatible with Stens 266-031 Craftsman Murray MT37x120MA, 1/2" x 35-3/5",Craftsman 24" and 26" Snowblowers Murray 24" and 26" Snowblowers, 2000-2004 Replacement Auger V Belt : Amazon.ca: Patio, Lawn & Garden


Find products from Swess at low prices. Shop online for barbecues, mowers, garden tools, generators, snow blowers and more at Amazon.ca



www.amazon.ca





it is 35 3/5 inches...that extra 3/5 can make a huge difference,

using a belt that is TOO LONG will just give you more problems,

use the OEM recommended belt length


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Thank you so much everyone - thank you @jerryvvv for the link to the right part # - I've ordered this and will post the next update after I install and see what adjustments are required.

Cheers - stay safe everyone!

P.S. love our neibours to the south ;-)


Best Regards,
-M


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hi folks,

Update: Belt worked perfectly! Auger no longer rotates on it's own - only when auger handle is engaged. Will monitor for any adjustments needed for carb or idler pulley next snowfall.

I could not loosen the tension in the handle however. There's a earlier photo that shows the cable connected to a black housing. I loosened it as much as I could - not sure if I'm missing something... not too concerned

Much thanks to all contributors of this thread!


Best Regards,
-MNC


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## MNC (Nov 23, 2020)

Hi again folks,

Happy new year to you all! Hope it was safe and enjoyable.

We finally got some worthwhile snow to try out this snowblower on and unfortunately looks like for heavier snow the engine ends up cutting out . The chute also gets clogged on slushier snow, but that's understandable, and manageable.

I am wondering if I need to tighten the governor screw located on the throttle handle in order to generate a higher RPM from the engine. I know it can be dangerous if tightened too much, so was thinking to tighten 1/4 turn at a time and observe. I wanted to reach out to the community here for feedback before I made any adjustments.

Thank you and best regards,
-M


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