# '87 924026 restore



## janzend (Nov 17, 2014)

Good evening everyone, I just got the above listed machine from a neighbor who has had it sitting outside for a few months and finally told him that if he let me take it I'd keep his sidewalk clear for the forseeable future, but i have a few questions on getting this thing going while im pressed for time in northeast Wisconsin.

I'm pretty familliar with bikes and have another project with a briggs that I'm in the midst of so im pretty comforable going though different maintenace tasks on the machine, but finding information for snowblowers is new to me.

I plan to change the plugs and oil this week before I start it, but I cant find how much oil the motor takes in the owners or service manual, should i track down the tecumseh manual for the attached motor for that info? It also looks like im missing the entire air filter assembley - when I go for the choke i see the valve opening and I'm fairly confident that there should be an airbox in that general area.


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## cancon (Oct 16, 2014)

This has come up a few days ago - there is no air filter on a snowblower engine because the moisture would freeze in the filter and there is way less airborne dust to be worried about. However, the carb should be covered by a metal lid known as a 'heater box' - you'll see if you start browsing pictures. That said, check out Scot's site; The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.

You can find the manual there. According to the info there I see your model number corresponds to production years 76'-78'.

If your machine has an oil fill plug near the block just add oil (5w-30) until it reaches the threads of the plug.


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## janzend (Nov 17, 2014)

Cool thanks, I thought it was a later production model since the manuals i got from the manufacturers side had a copyright in 1987. I'll check with the neighbor to see if he has the heater box floating around or if ill have to find a replacement. 

Thanks for the tips!


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## janzend (Nov 17, 2014)

I got to spend some time working on the machine over the weekend, changed the oil, installed a new spark plug and fuel line, took the carb off to check that out (found it clean but the bowl was full of ice) but it still just doesn't want to start :O I have gotten it to sputter for a few seconds if I keep pressing the primer but it won't run on its own. Any tips on where I should make adjustments? Especially the governor control, I'm not sure how to set that when I reinstall the linkage. Thanks a lot


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

janzend said:


> (found it clean but the bowl was full of ice)


If there was water in the carb bowl, there is probably water in other places in the fuel line too..I would do a complete drain of the fuel system, take everything apart and let it dry out for a few days..(can you get the machine above freezing? in a garage perhaps?) While you are at it, it would probably be a good idea to replace the fuel line tubing..

Scot


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## janzend (Nov 17, 2014)

Yep it was above freezing here over the weekend, so I did get it thawed out and ran new fuel line because of the ice. I just don't know if the throttle or governor control might be off that it's not able to run on its own. I hard a hard time reading the service manual but it looks like the carb adjustments are mostly fixed on this machine


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I agree with Scot on the fuel line. Stuff I work on now that I have no real idea of the history (sellers and even neighbors always claim they "took real good care of her") drain the fuel and clean/flush the tank. Do that with removing the fuel line at the carb, do the flush and clear of the tank on the old line. Then put a new line from the tank to the carb. That way you are not flowing bits and pieces into the newly cleaned carb. Your situation sounds like the carb is plugged. There are several little nooks and cranny and teeny tiny holes in that series of carbs. They can all get plugged back up if you have a crappy fuel line. Simple spraying with cleaner won't cut it. Check out these links. Note the tiny hole in the bowl nut near the threads, also the 3 tiny tiny ones inside the venturi near the throttle plate.
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehcarburetormanual.pdf


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Fixed jets? Is it the original engine? Pics would help speed this along, but that model year should have a fully adjustable carb if original.


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## peterk (Apr 30, 2014)

Make sure all the holes are clean in the main jet. Remove it from the bottom of the fuel bowl (7/16" wrench) take the adjustment screw from the bottom (has a spring, washer and seal). Clean all the holes in the side. I use an assortment of wires and go through with larger wires until they won't go in. At least 2 holes, one is very tiny. Try that.


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## janzend (Nov 17, 2014)

So that seems to be helping some, the adjustment screw was fully seated in. loosening it seems to get it a little better but it still sputters a few times and quits. Is there a good starting spot with that that that i should tighten or loosen that from? Also i looked at the electric starter - the upper left mount is broken off, and the lower right has the remains or a headless bolt.. it makes a horrible screeching sound when i try to use it, is there an alignement process for that that i can make sure its seated as well as possible?

Edit: the engine is original HM80-155020B

Found air and fuel screw stock settings 2 turns out on the air, and one one the fuel. started sputtering for a bit but just as i was making progess the started cord snapped!


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Electric starter will have the upper mounts as open tabs that slide onto the shoulder of the bolts (so you don't actually have to remove those top bolts. The lower ones will have a complete closed tab that those lower bolts actually have to be removed completely to remove the starter. Luckily, you have the opposite corners missing so you should be able to get it algned with going corner to corner. Might try a washer on the good upper one to get a good snug. Unfortunately, the screeching may be the gear shaft and not alignment. You would need to remove the starer to do a really good job of cleaning and lube. If you check out this vid it will walk you through it.
You don't need the tool, you can get by with pliers and screwdrivers.




Here's the repair of the starter rope.




Here's the start of the series on the carb rebuild and adjustments.


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## janzend (Nov 17, 2014)

Wow, thanks - I'm pretty sure that the starter motor just isnt aligned right, I just cant quite tell where its way when i mount it with the shroud in the way. once i get the rest of the machine running ill work on the starter again. i took the recoil started apart to get the cord end out before i remembered they can be a huge pain in the ass to reassemble..

of course i dropped parts when i took it apart so im at this point and cant figure out how to get it all back together without the bolt beng to toght for the test to turn.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You don't pull that apart to replace the rope. You just remove it from the machine and either wind it up before sliding the new rope in or burn a small slot in one side and you can wind the spring up with the rope. Check out some of the donyboy73 videos.

As for the electric starter, you probably have to take the gas tank off to get to the bolts. I would remove all 4 bolts and replace the top 2 with normal bolts and put a washer over the broken tab.

Also, if you found ice in the carb bowl check the float real well. Sometimes the ice can crush the float.


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## janzend (Nov 17, 2014)

Im going to ignore the electric starter for now, otherwise i just hammer on it in hopes that something will change. Getting the air and fuel mixture adjusted has the machine running now, bnut poorly and not for long. I took a video on my phone in case you guys can tell me what the engine is doing here, and what some of the causes may be. Thanks a lot (the rain is turning to snow right now)


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