# 536 need manual and engine id



## mcflyfyter (Oct 23, 2016)

Hello. I found and old craftsman 536.882602 blower that I am going to get back into shape. The major issues are bent impeller blades and it runs a little rough.
I was also curious if anyone could decode the date and hp rating of the motor. 
143 756162 ser5316D
I think this could be a good machine if I can quiet some of the rattles. The chute rattles enough that I would guess osha would require double ear protection to operate it. I will upload some pics so I can post them, since I we all love pics. Thanks


----------



## mcflyfyter (Oct 23, 2016)

I guess I can't post pics yet, sorry.


----------



## mcflyfyter (Oct 23, 2016)

Heck, I could really just use some info on belt tensioner adjustment....


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

IIRC that's a Murray designed and built blower sold through Sears. It's actually a pretty solid unit. I assume it's black and gray, making it mid to late 70's most likely.


One thing to watch is the shoulder bolts on the gearcase, keep them tight or pay the price. There's a number of simple mods and changes that can be done to them. Overall a very rugged unit.


On the impeller, pull off the auger housing and pull it out (the ends unbolt) and you can straighten the impeller vanes fairly easily using a torch, vice and pair of large channellocs. There are other ways, but I like using the torch, helps prevent cracks when straightening impeller vanes. 


Another good one if you have the plastic bushings on the auger and axel, check out the thread I made on converting it to roller bearings.


Hope that helps.


----------



## mike2me (Oct 26, 2016)

If it helps my motor is stamped a smiliar code over the motor 143-766162. The motor tag on mine reads sbh-351a (tecumseh motor) the tag is on the crankcase housing next to the bottom of the dipstick. (red and white driftbreaker not sure of my model number)


----------



## mcflyfyter (Oct 23, 2016)

HCBPH said:


> IIRC that's a Murray designed and built blower sold through Sears. It's actually a pretty solid unit. I assume it's black and gray, making it mid to late 70's most likely.
> 
> 
> One thing to watch is the shoulder bolts on the gearcase, keep them tight or pay the price. There's a number of simple mods and changes that can be done to them. Overall a very rugged unit.
> ...


Do you have any secrets for removing the auger pully? It looks like there is a bearing there and I'd rather not melt it by heating the pully. Also, do you have a source for gearbox seals?


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

mcflyfyter said:


> Do you have any secrets for removing the auger pully? It looks like there is a bearing there and I'd rather not melt it by heating the pully. Also, do you have a source for gearbox seals?


 
Most times if you just pull the set screws, soak the heck out of the area between the shaft and pulley and with a bit of careful tapping with a short drift they'll come off. In a 'really stuck' case, do the same then get a bearing puller setup. You will need to drill 2 holes through the hub of the pulley to take the extensions (could be 3/4" or more depending on the puller - I have a HF unit). Clamp the puller portion between the pulley and the bearing, screw in the extensions and add the top portion to it. I like to use an impact wrench on it, the hammering helps break the pulley loose though you may want to give the screw a rap with a hammer early on to help break it loose.


PS having the 2 holes won't make a big difference. The pulley is a low speed unit so it won't go out of balance (at least never had that issue so far on the ones I've had to do it on).


----------



## mcflyfyter (Oct 23, 2016)

Unfortunately, I think I will have to reassemble this thing and sell it. I had no idea that I would have to machine the gearboxes to replace the seals, and I am thinking that it really isn't worth the time. I will have to do some more research and find a better unit that is worth the effort. Thanks for the help.


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

mcflyfyter said:


> Unfortunately, I think I will have to reassemble this thing and sell it. I had no idea that I would have to machine the gearboxes to replace the seals, and I am thinking that it really isn't worth the time. I will have to do some more research and find a better unit that is worth the effort. Thanks for the help.



I've gone through quite a few of these units and never had to tear a gearbox down. They are sealed units and typically non-serviceable.


----------

