# Need help with my 73



## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

First sorry so long... I have a 73 32" cut that all of a sudden doesn't want to move any more. It was working just fine, then all of a sudden it wouldn't move, no noises nothing. Took bottom plate off all looks good in there, if I lift the wheels off the ground they turn, but I can grab a wheel with my hand and it stops. It looks to be a broken shear pin on the L axle behind the wheel and on the outside of the body. There is a hole in the axle but I cant seem to find a corresponding hole in the center shaft ( if that makes sense). When it is off the ground and I stop the wheels by hand the friction disk keeps spinning but axle does not. What could this be, and if a shear pin where is it? Thanks Larry


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

depending on the model. the friction wheel and shaft it is on is connected to the axle by a chain and 2 sprockets. or 2 gears that mesh with no chain.

If the friction wheel and the shaft it is on is spinning check the 2 gears or the 2 sprockets. each one will be kept in place on the shafts (one on the friction wheel shaft and one on the axle) by a keyway and set screw or a bolt.

you said when you hold the tire the friction keeps going but the axle stops. Do the tires spin on the axle with out the axle spinning?


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

I have the chain and 2 gears, when I grab the tire EVERYTHING - friction disk, chain and both gears still spins but not the wheels/axle. It looks like there is a bearing in the gear the axle goes through??? I will get pics if needed


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

pic would be great. model number. example...924xxx 922xxx 910xxx

the connection between the gear and axle is gone. either a keyway has sheared ir something else depending on the model.


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

OK got pics... no idea on model # that part of sticker is gone. So 1st pic may help ID it, In 2nd pic you can see hole in axle I was referring to, and 3rd pic you can see what I was referring to about bearings in the gear?? but why would it be splined? Anyway does better than all the new ones in the neighbor hood (besides the Hondas) when it moves...


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

Looks like your model uses 2 levers, one to engae the auger and the other to engage the drive. In the first picture I can see the auger lever but I can't tell if the drive lever is hidden by the motor or missing all together


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

yes 2 levers one auger one drive


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

Can you feel spring tension when you engage the drive lever. On mine if the drive lever is not engaged and I lift the blower by the bars the wheels will spin but not with any power, could be that you don't have enough tension on the belt


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

yes everything is the same, I was using it when it happened. There was no noises like something broke or anything. It just stopped moving.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

In your last pic. The big gear on the axle. There is a keyway between the axle and the gear. If that gear spins independently of the axle that is the problem. The key has broken/sheared. It would not have made much/any noise.

I believe on the side of the gear there are screws/bolts. The gear is sandwiched between. The two plates. Remove the plates and you will be able to see the center of the gear and the key.

Ensure that the gear is spinning free on the axle.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Is it me or does the friction wheel rubber look worn out ??? Odd wear pattern on the face and might be close to the metal shoulders.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

from the looks of the your pic, the friction wheel looks worn


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

heres a quick video to see whats going on 20131218_150222_0010_0010_zpsd2ee0b63.mp4 Video by ol_skool_16v | Photobucket


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

Unless someone is seeing something I am not. The key between the gear and the axle is sheared off. You have to take it apart.


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

yes the friction wheel is not in the best shape however I don't feel that is the problem as I was just using it going through some good size banks and didn't skip a beat. I was just tidying up and it stopped moving. I think td5771 is right, as my dads craftsman did the same thing, I just cant find the pin/key on my Ariens. Off to look again be back in a few...


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

Check page 14 of this manual

http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/PRM 22000.pdf


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

It seems to me that everything wants to turn but the wheel itself. I'm thinking it's the roll pins. You can see the hole in the still photo.
JMHO


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

THAT my friend is what I was looking for! Thank you, it looks like it would be #73 only thing is, is my gear is sandwiched between those plates as you said but it is riveted together. Looks like tomorrow will be a fun day!! Glad its not cold here in NH...

*Blue Hill* - that's what I thought too, only there is no "inner" hole to match


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

since it is already spinning on the axle it should be relatively easy to slide the gear off since the key is broken.


drill out the rivets and use screws or;

After you get it apart and slide the gear off. cut a small access area on each or one plate so you can put the key on the axle and slide the gear over it. since the plates kept the gear from going side to side and coming off just use a 3/4 I.D. collar with a set screw on the side you cut away the plate to secure the gear.

Does that make sense? It does in my head anyway.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

minitrk said:


> yes the friction wheel is not in the best shape however I don't feel that is the problem as I was just using it going through some good size banks and didn't skip a beat.


Sorry, didn't intend anyone to think it was the cause of the problem just slapped me in the face how worn it looked.


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

OK finally had time to tear it apart... took the gear out drilled the rivets and took the big gear apart, 8 little gears, Its a differential. No key or pins the axle and gear are splined. There is no broken teeth on any gears or splines. Now Im really stumped.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Any chance you have pictures ??


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

I can in the AM what do you need them of? Its all still apart


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

Hmm quick question, is part # 59 supposed to be solid or should the hub spin on the shaft?


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

On witch side? on right side should not spin, on left side it should spin if diff is un locked. I still think your trouble is with the friction wheel. If the wheel gets wet or oil on it, it will slip and as worn as that wheel locks in your pic it will slip more or less in different temps or wetnes in the air.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

after going threw this thread again it and looking at the pics again i can't see that you have the locking diff but you diagram that you are showing has the the locking diff. and it does look like your roll pin or bolt is brockin off that left wheel. Does your other wheel stop spining when you put you foot on it?


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

left spins locked or unlocked on the machine, when PN 59 is out of the machine and nothing at all attached to it the hub will spin on the shaft. IE: hold JUST splined shaft #59 in hand, hub will rotate. If it was the friction wheel why does everything still spin except the axle?? the diff, gears and chain all still spin. It is identical to a broken shear pin on the axle but there isnt one, its a solid splined axle. For those that were interested in the inside of the diff. heres a pic of that...


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

So no one can tell me if PN 59 from the above diagram is supposed to be a solid one pc unit or 2pc press fit so the hub itself spins on the shaft that goes into the diff. It does not look like it is or ever was welded that is why I ask.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Part number 59 (lt axle hub) should spin free on the axle unless you have the differential lock in the "on" position. And it is one solid piece. Also the hole in the lt axle hub is from a grease fitting that apparent fell out at some point. It's not for a sheer pin. You are supposed to grease it there so the hub does not rust to the axle and seize up. Hate to say this, but maybe you should have tried the friction wheel first, it's the easiest and cheapest repair to try.


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

Thank you, that confirms my thought that it is supposed to be a solid piece, time to weld it. The weld broke so clean that it doesnt look like it was ever welded. I didnt think the hole in the axle/hub was for a pin as I couldnt find the corresponding hole, also it would defeat the purpose of the diff. by making it a solid axle. Ill be sure to put a grease fitting in. Didnt try the friction wheel first as everything underneath except the axle turned, and this was only 2 roll pins and 3 lug bolts to take the axle out.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

At least you found the prob, broken hub and not the friction disk. Let us know how it works out...


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

Thank you, I will. Ive been racking my brain for days trying to figure this out. Would have been easy if it was an obvious broken weld, not smooth like it was never there.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

That hub should look like this. (Except for the 3 bolts vs 4)
























Reread you post and finally get what you were asking. Yes they are correct in saying that hub should be one solid piece.


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

Yes thats it, thanks guys. I guess thats the one pic I should have taken that I didnt. Thanks again guys, will update once I get it welded. Have a Merry Christmas everyone.


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

Got it welded yesterday, works as it should now. Thanks guys sorry it took 4 pages to figure it out, but at least the problem is solved.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

At least it's done! Glad ur up and running again. Keep that 73 chugging.


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