# 926LE Production Years



## bagmite

I'm looking at a 926LE craigslist item and need help confirming what I think I already know, but here goes. The item looks totally pristine and the ask is $850. It looks like the 926LE was made in 2006 and 2007 at cost $1200 new though the seller claims it is 1.5 years old and cost $1500. If 2006/2007 then $850 is too high. Were these made more recently? And is the original price correct? Thanks for any help.

Also, thanks to all who post here - I've been lurking for quite a while and learned a great deal from all of your posts.


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## chrisexv6

bagmite said:


> I'm looking at a 926LE craigslist item and need help confirming what I think I already know, but here goes. The item looks totally pristine and the ask is $850. It looks like the 926LE was made in 2006 and 2007 at cost $1200 new though the seller claims it is 1.5 years old and cost $1500. If 2006/2007 then $850 is too high. Were these made more recently? And is the original price correct? Thanks for any help.
> 
> Also, thanks to all who post here - I've been lurking for quite a while and learned a great deal from all of your posts.


I can tell you that mine is from 2006. I really dont think they made it in the last 2 years....at some point I believe it went from 926 (9HP 26" cut) to 927 (9HP 27" cut) and then I think they dropped the 9-series altogether. You are correct on the price point back in 06....mine was on clearance (didnt you just love when HD stocked WAAAAAAY too many blowers?) for 50% off the retail price. So I paid 600.00 brand new (I was just joking with the wife I bet I could sell it for that much, even after using it for 8 years)

Not sure they would divulge it but the serial number might help too.....Im not sure of Snowmann frequents this forum but I thought at one time he could tell build date and model year by the model and serial number.


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## bagmite

How has your 926LE treated you since the one I'm looking at is about the same age?


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## sscotsman

There were three Ariens 926LE models, models 926001, 926007, or 926101.
Made in 2005 and 2006 only.
And there was a 926DLE from 2004.

So, 8 or 9 years old..I would walk away already, because the seller is either clueless, or lying..legitimate cluelessness can be ok, (if its just a dealer or reseller, not an owner/user) but if lying, walk away..(If he says he bought it new 1.5 years ago, that's a lie.)

Found a review here from 2008:
Ariens 926LE Deluxe Sno-Thros - 926001

guy says he paid $1,100 for it..
based on that, $850 seems high for a 8 or 9 year old machine, but not outrageously high..that could actually be a decent price, if it has been well cared and has little use..hard to say really. But it is an Ariens "Pro level" machine, which makes it a high-quality machine..Price comes down to age, original price, and current condition.

you now know two out of three..

Scot


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## chrisexv6

bagmite said:


> How has your 926LE treated you since the one I'm looking at is about the same age?


Honestly there hasnt been anything it doesnt go through. 2' diameter balls of end of driveway mess, 10" of wet heavy snow (literally just last weekend), etc.

I was just dealing with a knocking noise when I pulled the recoil but it turned out to be normal (cam "engaging" the valves) and really doesnt have anything to do with the "Ariens" part of the blower. The engine still runs great...a little hunt/surge at no-load-idle but thats normal for any EPA-controlled carb. Once under load (which snowblowers usually are!) it smooths out just fine.

The blower itself has required little to no maintenance....I just recently had to lube the pivot points of the drive engagement. Other than that its standard beginning of season stuff: lube the springs, grease the augers, air up the tires, etc.

Is it worth 850? Probably not, like you said. My guess is 400-500 would be a good price but I tend to shy away from buying used power equipment, so Im probably not the best judge of worth. If you ask me mine is priceless because I hate shovelling  I would buy another one in a minute, even at close to full price from a dealer. I dont think you can go wrong with any Ariens blower, personally.


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## bagmite

Thanks to all who posted - decision is made to look elsewhere. Really a shame because it looks like a good unit in good condition. Maybe I'll look at new models.


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## Runner50

sscotsman said:


> There were three Ariens 926LE models, models 926001, 926007, or 926101.
> Made in 2005 and 2006 only.
> And there was a 926DLE from 2004.
> 
> So, 8 or 9 years old..I would walk away already, because the seller is either clueless, or lying..legitimate cluelessness can be ok, (if its just a dealer or reseller, not an owner/user) but if lying, walk away..(If he says he bought it new 1.5 years ago, that's a lie.)
> 
> Found a review here from 2008:
> Ariens 926LE Deluxe Sno-Thros - 926001
> 
> guy says he paid $1,100 for it..
> based on that, $850 seems high for a 8 or 9 year old machine, but not outrageously high..that could actually be a decent price, if it has been well cared and has little use..hard to say really. But it is an Ariens "Pro level" machine, which makes it a high-quality machine..Price comes down to age, original price, and current condition.
> 
> you now know two out of three..
> 
> Scot


The 926LE Deluxe-926001 wasn't the "Pro level" Ariens. It was the step below with aluminum gear case, smaller tires & L head motor.


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## chrisexv6

Runner50 said:


> The 926LE Deluxe-926001 wasn't the "Pro level" Ariens. It was the step below with aluminum gear case, smaller tires & L head motor.


I think he was referring to the 926*D*LE

The OP was asking about the 926LE (no D).

Its funny you mention the aluminum gearcase....i remember posts from Snowmann about it, talking about the extensive testing they did with it. Including sending bricks (!!!) through it, running with no gear oil, etc.

Did the gearcases start failing somewhere along the way? Mine is still chugging away without issue. I think it seeps a little, but nothing major (I check the level every season and maybe its a tiny bit low but nothing at all to complain about)


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## RIT333

I have a 926001, and I will say that it is a beast. It will go through anything, and throws the slush a pretty good distance also. I highly recommend that model, but I also agree that the asking price is a bit steep. I would throw in a $500 offer and see if they bite, and go from there. 

Not sure what it went for new, because I bought it off EBay from a seller that was 125 miles away, but it was brand new - literally. I only paid $475, plus about $25 in gas/tolls, so I have $500 into it.

The guy have a couple of them - claimed that that were in payment for some work he had done for someone, but I suspect they may have "fallen off the back of a truck". I wish I bought all of them, but I didn't have the room.


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## Runner50

chrisexv6 said:


> I think he was referring to the 926*D*LE
> 
> The OP was asking about the 926LE (no D).
> 
> Its funny you mention the aluminum gearcase....i remember posts from Snowmann about it, talking about the extensive testing they did with it. Including sending bricks (!!!) through it, running with no gear oil, etc.
> 
> Did the gearcases start failing somewhere along the way? Mine is still chugging away without issue. I think it seeps a little, but nothing major (I check the level every season and maybe its a tiny bit low but nothing at all to complain about)



No, he was referring to the 926LE, which the OP asked about & was reviewed in the link provided by sscotsman. That's the way I read it.
Maybe sscotsman can clear that up if he wishes to.
Don't know if the aluminum gear cases were failing along the way, but there must be a good reason why Ariens went back to the cast iron ones at some point.


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## HillnGullyRider

Runner50 said:


> Don't know if the aluminum gear cases were failing along the way, but there must be a good reason why Ariens went back to the cast iron ones at some point.


My guess is the supplier price came down enough that it didn't make sense to keep using aluminum, less separate part numbers and cheap insurance ...the only problem is , now there is not that much that differentiates the pro from the models just below.

I have a 11528LE (926000 series) basically the same as the 926LE from the 2005-06 era, except a few more cc and 2" more bucket. I paid $500 two seasons ago, but it was well used. I also have a 926pro (926DLE) parts chassis from the same era with the trigger differential...If you can find an early 926000 series, they are still worth buying IMO, even if they have the aluminum gear and you have to go to the 600-700 dollar range.


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## chrisexv6

HillnGullyRider said:


> My guess is the supplier price came down enough that it didn't make sense to keep using aluminum, less separate part numbers and cheap insurance ...the only problem is , now there is not that much that differentiates the pro from the models just below.
> 
> I have a 11528LE (926000 series) basically the same as the 926LE from the 2005-06 era, except a few more cc and 2" more bucket. I paid $500 two seasons ago, but it was well used. I also have a 926pro (926DLE) parts chassis from the same era with the trigger differential...If you can find an early 926000 series, they are still worth buying IMO, even if they have the aluminum gear and you have to go to the 600-700 dollar range.


When I got my 926LE for $600, HD had the 11528LE on clearance right next it to for $900. My debate was: was it worth it to bump up the HP, size (i.e. less maneuverability), etc along with paying 50% more. Obviously I chose the less cost, smaller alternative.

The ONLY part of that I regret is that the 11528 had the trigger locking diff. Leaving my 2 wheels pinned to the drive axle makes the 926 a bear to turn unless there is some snow left over (and forget about trying to turn it around in my garage). The heated handle bars, 28" cut and more power werent that important, but that locking diff would sure come in handy now.

And now with Auto Turn available Im even more jealous of the new models


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## HillnGullyRider

Chris, you got a steal on a 926000 series for $600 new, you're already dollars ahead. The beauty of any 926000 is you can upgrade that to auto-turn 2014 specs for around $200 (even cheaper($120) if you have an ATC Hilliard 926000) but you'll still have the smaller non-Pro wheels (which is perfectly OK). 



chrisexv6 said:


> When I got my 926LE for $600, HD had the 11528LE on clearance right next it to for $900. My debate was: was it worth it to bump up the HP, size (i.e. less maneuverability), etc along with paying 50% more. Obviously I chose the less cost, smaller alternative.
> 
> The ONLY part of that I regret is that the 11528 had the trigger locking diff. Leaving my 2 wheels pinned to the drive axle makes the 926 a bear to turn unless there is some snow left over (and forget about trying to turn it around in my garage). The heated handle bars, 28" cut and more power werent that important, but that locking diff would sure come in handy now.
> 
> And now with Auto Turn available Im even more jealous of the new models


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## chrisexv6

HillnGullyRider said:


> Chris, you got a steal on a 926000 series for $600 new, you're already dollars ahead. The beauty of any 926000 is you can upgrade that to auto-turn 2014 specs for around $200 (even cheaper($120) if you have an ATC Hilliard 926000) but you'll still have the smaller non-Pro wheels (which is perfectly OK).


How can the auto turn upgrade be done? Color me very interested since thats the only thing I really want from the new ones!

EDIT: Saw a post from Snowmann that says Id need the updated wheels (mine doesnt have the trigger lock axle, so the wheels are using pins instead of metal clips). Not sure if that makes a difference. I looked at adding the trigger lock setup a while ago, and needed those wheels for that too but I could never figure out exactly why (although Im guessing whatever axle I buy wont have provisions for a linch pin). I wonder if its just a matter of having the axle drilled for a linch pin (not that I could do that myself)

Thanks.

-Chris


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## HillnGullyRider

MY LE has the clip wheels (the tires/wheels are smaller than the pro wheels), but it's an 11528LE and does have the trigger ratchet...I'd have to look at the parts list to see what you'd need. New wheels and tires might be a deal killer.

Edit: i see the pin wheels, Straight axles are pinned...It's a shame because my LE uses 15 clip wheels. I checked to see if you could just order the wheels (then you could reuse your tires and tubes) but they are NLA. You can only buy the whole wheel tire tube assembly, and those are about $100 a pop ( it doubles the cost of the conversion), and you may as well get the 16's at that point


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## chrisexv6

HillnGullyRider said:


> MY LE has the clip wheels (the tires/wheels are smaller than the pro wheels), but it's an 11528LE and does have the trigger ratchet...I'd have to look at the parts list to see what you'd need. New wheels and tires might be a deal killer.


Yeah, it needs the new wheels and tires. If I get the correct axles for the diff, they dont have holes for wheel pins...they have a keyway and a groove for the metal clip to hold the wheel on.

Is it completely a deal breaker? Not totally, since even with wheels and tires the price is about 400 to convert, but its close. On the flipside, I cant get a new blower with a diff for 400.

Considering Ariens most likely does not make their own wheels, Im thinking there is an off-brand alternative out there, but the heck if I can find one. 

Do you have dimensions on the wheels? Partstree shows they came as 
16 x 4.80 - 8 
or 
16 x 6.50 - 8

Should be able to find plenty of generic ones in that size, but the other issue is how long the backspacing is (in comparison to the width of the blower), the diameter of the axle opening, and that they have to be keyed.

If I ordered direct from partstree, each wheel/tire is about 75 bux, so it adds 150 to the parts list. Again, not horrible, but not sure its worth the time/money/effort on an 8 yr old blower.

I might need new axle mounts as well, since the 926LE has the triangular shape thing vs the round bearing holder of the newer units.


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## Runner50

chrisexv6 said:


> How can the auto turn upgrade be done? Color me very interested since thats the only thing I really want from the new ones!
> 
> EDIT: Saw a post from Snowmann that says Id need the updated wheels (mine doesnt have the trigger lock axle, so the wheels are using pins instead of metal clips). Not sure if that makes a difference. I looked at adding the trigger lock setup a while ago, and needed those wheels for that too but I could never figure out exactly why (although Im guessing whatever axle I buy wont have provisions for a linch pin). I wonder if its just a matter of having the axle drilled for a linch pin (not that I could do that myself)
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Chris



This guy recently did the conversion. His was a Pro model, so I don't know if everything would apply to your model. Here's his thread.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...rting-atc-pro-32-into-auto-turn-pro-32-a.html


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## HillnGullyRider

If the new axles are only case hardened which suspect they might be, then you just have penetrate the outer millimeter or two. They make special bits to do this...but you'd have to have a buddy with a very good precision drill setup, and you'd have to drop some coin for the bits...Still may be cheaper than $200. There are also several other methods, most would be cost prohibitive, but if you find a shop that does induction annealing, that would be another way (you can use regular bits once it's annealed), they just spot anneal the tip of the axle, then induction harden it once you've machined your hole.


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## chrisexv6

Thats getting a little too extreme for my blood  Ill just deal with no-diff for now. If it really becomes a pain in the butt, back, neck, etc, Ill just have to make a case to the wife for upgrading to something newer (the snowblower, not the wife)


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## rjchristensen

I just purchased last sat. this 926LE, in excellent, almost new condition, with hardly any use for $500. The gentalman I purchased it from on Craigslist was the original owner, and he delivered it to my home and had all manuals and extra sheer pins and showed me how to operate it in 12" of fresh powder.

I used that weekend for our first Central Oregon high desert snow storm of 12" and I was so pleased of how fast it cleared 600' of our graveled driveway.
This is my first ever snow blower and can't understand why I did not get one earlier in life.
Any questions PM me
Rick
Prineville Oregon


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## HillnGullyRider

rjchristensen said:


> I just purchased last sat. this 926LE, in excellent, almost new condition, with hardly any use for $500. The gentalman I purchased it from on Craigslist was the original owner, and he delivered it to my home and had all manuals and extra sheer pins and showed me how to operate it in 12" of fresh powder.
> 
> I used that weekend for our first Central Oregon high desert snow storm of 12" and I was so pleased of how fast it cleared 600' of our graveled driveway.
> This is my first ever snow blower and can't understand why I did not get one earlier in life.
> Any questions PM me
> Rick
> Prineville Oregon


What is your model number? I'll check to see if you can do the easy auto-turn upgrade...


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## 23tsunami

I'm new to this site,so please excuse me for posting this negative review.I wouldn't normally do this on a first post,but I'm extremely frustrated with this blower.
I bought the 926le in 2008 from Home Depot,and it has the aluminum gear case.I paid $950.00 for it back then.

I hate this machine,I'd like to take the idiot engineer who designed the incredibly complicated chute control,and shoot him.
It's the last Ariens I will ever buy.It blows snow very well,and the engine(Tecumseh)Is bullet proof,but having to constantly fix the chute control,is enough to make me get rid of it.I'd take my old 20 year old Ariens back any day over this piece of junk.


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## HillnGullyRider

Does yours have the joystick or the crank control?
What is your exact model number? If it starts with 926 then the chute control is the same bevel gear as all pro models of that era. I've never heard anyone complain about the joystick before. They work great and the hex rod retracts easily if you need to remove the chute or front attachment for service. If you use the interlock the machine can be operated with only one hand on the clutch and one on the joystick, gear, or deflector controls. Why is yours constantly not working? Is it missing parts?



23tsunami said:


> I'm new to this site,so please excuse me for posting this negative review.I wouldn't normally do this on a first post,but I'm extremely frustrated with this blower.
> I bought the 926le in 2008 from Home Depot,and it has the aluminum gear case.I paid $950.00 for it back then.
> 
> I hate this machine,I'd like to take the idiot engineer who designed the incredibly complicated chute control,and shoot him.
> It's the last Ariens I will ever buy.It blows snow very well,and the engine(Tecumseh)Is bullet proof,but having to constantly fix the chute control,is enough to make me get rid of it.I'd take my old 20 year old Ariens back any day over this piece of junk.


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## 23tsunami

HillnGullyRider said:


> Does yours have the joystick or the crank control?
> What is your exact model number? If it starts with 926 then the chute control is the same bevel gear as all pro models of that era. I've never heard anyone complain about the joystick before. They work great and the hex rod retracts easily if you need to remove the chute or front attachment for service. If you use the interlock the machine can be operated with only one hand on the clutch and one on the joystick, gear, or deflector controls. Why is yours constantly not working? Is it missing parts?



It's the ST926LE, and it has the joystick.When it works,it is great,but it has frequently been problematic.I'm not one to abuse equipment,and I do take good care of my stuff. Maybe I just got a bad one,I've replaced some of the parts of the control several times already,and now it finally seems to be ok.
The way I look at it,is that if I'm spending a thousand bucks on something that doesn't get used constantly,I shouldn't have to spend my time fixing something that wasn't engineered properly.
My next blower will be either a Simplicity or Honda.I'd spend double to get something that works well all the time.

Quality should be equal to the Shindaiwa backpack blower that I have that never misses a beat and works exactly as it should.

Maybe I'm just in a sour mood,so please except my apologies for bi--tching on my very first post on such a good forum.I'm glad I found this site,lots of good info and help here. Thanks to all.


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## HillnGullyRider

23tsunami said:


> It's the ST926LE, and it has the joystick.When it works,it is great,but it has frequently been problematic.I'm not one to abuse equipment,and I do take good care of my stuff. Maybe I just got a bad one,I've replaced some of the parts of the control several times already,and now it finally seems to be ok.
> The way I look at it,is that if I'm spending a thousand bucks on something that doesn't get used constantly,I shouldn't have to spend my time fixing something that wasn't engineered properly.
> My next blower will be either a Simplicity or Honda.I'd spend double to get something that works well all the time.
> 
> Quality should be equal to the Shindaiwa backpack blower that I have that never misses a beat and works exactly as it should.
> 
> Maybe I'm just in a sour mood,so please except my apologies for bi--tching on my very first post on such a good forum.I'm glad I found this site,lots of good info and help here. Thanks to all.


Sounds like you do have a 926 series, I have the DLE version, it's practically the same except it has a cast iron gear case, and it has a differential instead of a spur gear...I'm wondering if your chute problem didn't have to do with alignment issues?

Now I also do have a spur gear LE version, It's an 11528LE...The main difference is this has a THF chute, while the 926 has a slightly shorter chute. The black support rod is different between the two units and the bolt weldment is different on the blower housings, so the chutes are not interchangeable, they must stay with the housings that they came with.

My main gripe is not the joystick (which btw is nicer to use when you have a differential), but the vibration and the design of the (oval light) control panel.

Make sure you have all the parts for that chute control and that they are all installed correctly, make sure the bevel gears are cleaned and lubed.

You also might want to buy the $140 Auto turn retrofit kit. Ariens would sell a 926 series auto turn for at least $1400 and probably closer to $1800 (considering they sell the 28" 926's for $2100) in today's market if they made such a thing in 26" width. It would help resale value if you do intend to unload it.

I like the 26" better than the 28", It fits between the cars better when storing or maneuvering.

please see this thread:
http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/63089-0-1.html


Please see this Chute upgrade kit, It has a heavy duty lock arm, a cable with adjustments on both ends, and a redesigned gear


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## HillnGullyRider

23tsunami I just wanted to give you some food for thought before you go and sell because you feel a feature has failed you. Since you already own the building blocks of a current Pro model, you may want spend a few more bucks to upgrade the problems that have already been worked through, concerning the early models. Just off the top of my head there are improvement kits available: Drive belt improvement kit (around $35), Impeller double belt kit (around $60), Chute upgrade kit (around $45), Auto-Turn steering kit(around $150), and If your aluminum gearbox ever fails there is a reasonably priced top loading cast iron gearbox kit that comes with auger and impeller shafts installed. With all those kits applied, about the only thing left that would be different from late model Pro machines would be the rectangle headlight control panel and the tire size. 

Seeing as you only paid a thousand at HD, It might be worth it to drop $300 in upgrades as opposed to buying a new machine. At minimum you you would have a modern HEAVY duty machine you make end up really liking, and on the plus side you'd easily make up the $300 if you do sell and you can point out the upgrades so a potential customer can compare apples to apples.


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## Toro-8-2-4

HillnGullyRider said:


> 23tsunami I just wanted to give you some food for thought before you go and sell because you feel a feature has failed you. Since you already own the building blocks of a current Pro model, you may want spend a few more bucks to upgrade the problems that have already been worked through, concerning the early models. Just off the top of my head there are improvement kits available: Drive belt improvement kit (around $35), Impeller double belt kit (around $60), Chute upgrade kit (around $45), Auto-Turn steering kit(around $150), and If your aluminum gearbox ever fails there is a reasonably priced top loading cast iron gearbox kit that comes with auger and impeller shafts installed. With all those kits applied, about the only thing left that would be different from late model Pro machines would be the rectangle headlight control panel and the tire size.
> 
> .



Can anyone one tell me about the $35 drive belt improvement kit mentioned above? Also the $45 Chute upgrade. I have the double auger pulley kit. Thanks.


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## RIT333

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Can anyone one tell me about the $35 drive belt improvement kit mentioned above? Also the $45 Chute upgrade. I have the double auger pulley kit. Thanks.



I believe that the drive belt improvement kit was simply a piece of sheet metal that was belt into an L-shape to divert the melting snow off of the drive belt to stop it from slipping. I may have an extra that I would sell you, however you may be able to make one out of black rubber flashing tape. I will also look for the instructions for the kit. PM me if interested, but I won't be back home until next Tuesday.


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