# Wheels rusted to axle



## [email protected] (Oct 13, 2017)

Don't know how others deal with this but I welded collars to the wheel axle, then used Pittman arm puller and impact wrench, it didn't come quietly.
Harbor Freight 3 jaw on the floor, couldn't take the impact wrench, threads stripped
,may it rest in peices.


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## drumsonly2002 (Dec 23, 2016)

That is brilliant! Going to use that technique to remove the wheels from a 1969 MTD that need replacement. Great post and pictures, thanks!


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## [email protected] (Oct 13, 2017)

Get the steel collars from tractor supply, i bought 1/8 th inch too small and used a mill to open the bore, its much easier to buy the slightly over size collars and just stick weld to the wheel. Couple of tack welds is enough. Cut the welds later.
Grind the collars where needed so the puller slips on. Or buy a bigger puller.
There are better pullers at $25.


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## [email protected] (Oct 13, 2017)

This one.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Tool-Tie-rod...75.c100623.m-1&_mwBanner=1#vi__app-cvip-panel


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## drumsonly2002 (Dec 23, 2016)

Good advice Thanks! I got the good wheel pullers since I do bearing work on pumps. Over sized it will be. I was going to try to torch and cut the wheels off to replace them. You saved me a ton of time and trouble.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Every first time tune-up I do on a snowblower I pull the wheels, wire brush the axles, then sand, then grease. I've encountered too many stuck or rusted on wheels because what do you do with a rusted on wheel in a snowstorm when you have a flat?

I pull the wheel, sometimes I need to add heat from my oxy-acet welding torch head, not cutting torch. Many times a propane or mapp doesn't have the heat.

I have a Snap-On bar puller. It came with 3 claws of different lengths that are removable using a pull pin. I remove the claws and I'm left with a straight substantial well built bar with the center screw. I use this for different applications by making accessory adapters or bars. I've made one for pulling cast iron flywheels off Kohler engines, another for very large gears or pulleys, car rear end axles, and another for pulling snowblower, tractor, and lawn equipment wheels. For the latter I deflate the tire then assemble the adapters, generally I use angle iron bolted together behind the rim, attached to the Snap-On puller, then I either center the puller screw over the axle if imbedded below the wheel, or put a socket over the axle if it's sticking out using the removable cone center that came with the puller. I then crank down on the hex screw head using either my impact gun or ratchet wrench socket.


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## [email protected] (Oct 13, 2017)

That's what I was trying to do with new to me old simplicity 860, couldn't even get the wheels off. Tried a pickle fork behind the wheel and broke the friction wheel pivot that rides on the axle, $150 cast alum. I had to get the wheels off at that point to either fix or replace damage.
I managed to tig the cast alum part once the wheels were off, gonna slop anti seize on everything. I would give my left nut for an oxy torch set up.!

Broken pivot and welded result.


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## DriverRider (Nov 20, 2016)

As you found out it is very important to remove wheels and grease hubs and axle once per year. I had one where no amount of heating and beating could get that wheel off. Wheels are expensive axles around $30 so on that one I took the sawzall and cut it in two removing half an axle with the seized wheel then put it in the press after heating again.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

It's also important to dress the axle holes with a half round file. The rocking pins can raise steel and exceed the factory countersinks. When that happens the axle is jammed into the hub. 

Good move with the collar. The rest of the wheel has very little strength.


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## [email protected] (Oct 13, 2017)

Half round file. Yeh I was wondering how to clear the rust out from the wheel.
Cutting the axle was my next move if all else failed.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I usually pull the engine & auger and work with the wheel upright. Heat & penetrating oil (or acetone & ATF) to work into the gap between the hub and the axel.


Something I've done to a auger pulley before that might work here, if it doesn't have to be pretty. I have drilled a couple of holes through the pulley and used a bearing splitter setup like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html
You can put tension on the hub and then hit it will heat and/or penetrating oil to break it loose many times.
I did have one really bad one that everything failed. I took a cutoff wheel and removed the wheel from the hub, than carefully split the hub off the axel till I could separate it with a cold chisel and hammer. In that case, they were hard rubber tires I planned to replace anyway.


Big thing when done is after they're off, clean the shaft up well. I then like to paint them and use antiseize prior to putting wheels back on.


Good luck, they're a bear when they don't want to cooperate and come off.


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## [email protected] (Oct 13, 2017)

6 inches of heavy wet snow overnite, it was all heavy slush ,
the blower dealt with it this morning easily.
Very happy with my $100 simplicity.


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