# Help Me Get a 1974 Toro Running



## Ocean_Playground (Nov 24, 2017)

I tried to film my latest attempt. Sorry for the shaky video.

https://youtu.be/KGzCxQfwghg

Briggs & Stratton model 31263. Spark plug appears to be ok. Looking for any suggestions if you can diagnose anything from this video. Appreciate the help.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

The only thing that video tells me is you have some compression. You need compression, fuel, and ignition delivered at the proper time. I'm going to guess either fuel or ignition, not timing. With that old Briggs, I would pop the recoil cover, and bolt on a modern Briggs coil....most any single cylinder will work, I use vertical shaft coils from blown up lawn tractors, ...and you can be sure of strong reliable spark. The points on those old Brigg's are a PIA. Before you get to involved , use some carb cleaner or starting fluid in the carb. If it fires your problem is fuel, if not you need spark . Even if you have spark, once you get it straightened out , I'd get rid of the points. Something else is the safety interlock on those old Toros. If those aren't working you get no spark. disconnect the kill wire from the coil and try before anything else.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Nice video but not complete because

How clean and free of rust is your fuel tank? Carburetor? Are you absolutely sure?

If not, disconnect the fuel line, drain the fuel bowl

Remove the spark plug

Pull the cord a few times to clear out any bad gas from the cylinder

With the spark plug removed, Ground the spark plug, pull the cord, check for spark, if not, clean the points or install a Mega Fire replacement ignition module, you can also remove the flywheel housing and clean the magnets, check for gap, check the flywheel key

Install the spark plug

Spray starting fluid in the carb, now try to start it

If it starts, put the gas line back with fresh fuel.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Good advice so far. Before messing with coils, I'd start with the suggestion of squirting some gas or starting fluid into the carb. If it will run for a few seconds on that, then you at least have a serviceable spark. 

What are the two controls you were messing with on the carb in the video? The lever might be the choke. But that just needs to be in the proper position for starting (choke on, with the plate closing off the carb's intake). Flipping the choke back/forth with the engine just sitting won't do anything.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

In the brief shot of the control panel, the throttle was set to the rear. On my 70's 724, forward is for high throttle, and the ignition cuts when to the rear - not sure about this one. And And as others have notes, dinking the choke back and forth won't accomplish anything - it needs to be closed for start . . .


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## Ocean_Playground (Nov 24, 2017)

Thanks for the input. The carb is new and there is no rust in the tank. I will try with some starter fluid and follow the suggestions here on the spark plug. 

In the video I was just trying to to demonstrate the position of the choke. And it was in neutral the whole time.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* For The Love of ZEUS!!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT USE THAT BLOODY FREAKING STARTER FLUID!!!!!! You could blow a hole right through that piston!!!!!!!!!! :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* THE Problem is in those safety interlock's. you are not getting any spark.*


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Ocean_Playground said:


> Thanks for the input. The carb is new and there is no rust in the tank. I will try with some starter fluid and follow the suggestions here on the spark plug.
> 
> In the video I was just trying to to demonstrate the position of the choke. And it was in neutral the whole time.


OK, carb is likely questionanble (but new) third world which has never run, and the tank is clean. You said nothing about the age and condition of the fuel line, and there is always a chance the carb is bad. Ignition also, since Toro typically has an ignition kill on the carb, and if your new one didn't do that right, it may well have the ignition shut down for you . . .


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * For The Love of ZEUS!!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT USE THAT BLOODY FREAKING STARTER FLUID!!!!!! You could blow a hole right through that piston!!!!!!!!!! :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:*


I don't know if maybe carb cleaner is gentler when it ignites? 

I recently ordered a $1 plastic squeeze bottle that has a tube going to the bottom. We use ones like it at work. It should let me put some gas in the bottle, and give it a squeeze to squirt some gas into the carb. I'll probably use mixed 2-stroke gas, which can safely be used for a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke. It won't be more violent than normal gas, and it'll also bring a little lubrication along with it. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/250ml-500ml-Tattoo-Squeeze-Bottle-Diffuser-Green-Soap-Wash-Lab-Supply-Plastic/223294105784?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=522077659013&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

you're missing 3 head bolts! I assume you removed the "hot box" and forgot to put them back in.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

Use WD-40 for starter fluid. It provides lubrication to the cylinder and works like a starting fluid. Much easier on the engine. A tip that an ope mechanic gave me.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Have you owned this machine for awhile or did you just acquire it? A small amount of gasoline about 2ml squirted into the sparkplug hole and if you got spark it will pop. Chinese carburetors tend to work well. I have one on an old Arctic Cat Mini bike that ran like crap and I cleaned the old carburetor and still ran like crap. I put a Chinese carburetor from Amazon on it and it runs great now. Remember spark, fuel and compression are all it takes for an engine to run. Since it is a very old engine you could have some mechanical problems such as worn rings and cylinder bore and spark problems. Briggs sells a replacement electronic ignition system that retrofits old breaker point engines if it is only spark related.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

^^^ all good suggestions but don't do anything else until the head bolts are put back in; when your head bolts are off, you're not pulling enough air/fuel through the carb.

I'd actually back them all out and torque them evenly back to spec (165 inch lbs).


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

classiccat said:


> ^^^ all good suggestions but don't do anything else until the head bolts are put back in; when your head bolts are off, you're not pulling enough air/fuel through the carb.
> 
> I'd actually back them all out and torque them evenly back to spec (165 inch lbs).


Pull the head and look at the bore. If the bore is smooth and free from and gouges you can the use some seafoam to see if you can free up any possible stuck rings to help up the compression plus get a brass brush and some carburetor cleaner and clean up the piston and valves. Pour an ounce or 2 of seafoam into the cylinder and it will free up any stuck rings. Make sure to change the oil after assembling the engine with a hew head gasket which is only about $10. 

After reassembly make sure you have spark. Sometimes you need to re-gap the points or get an electronic Briggs ignition module from Ebay or another seller. Once in a while you may need to pop the flywheel to see if the flywheel key is still in place. I would not spend too much time or worse yet money since a 7hp Tecumseh engine if it is a single shaft engine can easily be replaced with Harbor Freight Predator 212cc which will preform every bit as well or better plus be easier on the fuel too.


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## AnOldGearhead (Nov 18, 2017)

New chinese carb - I would have expected to see some gas dripping out the bottom of the intake chimney. Do you have both mixture screws backed out a full turn to one and a half turns? Don't tighten them very hard (especially the angled one at the bottom front) when tightening - only go just lightly finger tight - before backing them out to check.


If you have gas, next pull the plug and check for spark.


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## Ocean_Playground (Nov 24, 2017)

UPDATE:

So I got it running after putting in those header bolts 😣 and installing a new sparkplug. And it runs!!! I had it running for a few minutes then went to engage the auger and it stopped. Any reason it would do that? I suspect the auger drive assembly needs to be cleaned up. Open to suggestions before I tackle that.

I'll try to post another video. Appreciate the responses!


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

I'm going to assume you have a new adjustable carb, and have dialed in both the high rpm and idle jets to where without any load the engine runs smoothly at both idle and then revs up to recommended rpm's and runs smoothly there.

If so - with the engine off, belt cover removed, spark plug disco'd and clutch disengaged, do the auger rakes/impeller/auger pulley spin freely?


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Probably the safety interlock cut out the ignition...


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## AnOldGearhead (Nov 18, 2017)

To elaborate on what cranman wrote, when the auger is engaged, or the shifter isn't in neutral, you have to be squeezing either one of the deadman levers under the handgrips or else the engine will die (the ignition gets shorted by design).


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## Ocean_Playground (Nov 24, 2017)

Thanks guys. With engine off and everything, the auger and impeller do spin. Not necessary freely but they spin. I think it needs a cleanup. Didn't know about the deadman levers. Will test that out next.


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