# Heated hand grips and LED light



## Gotime (Jan 16, 2014)

Ok guys, I’ve been wanting to add some heated grips to my HS 928 machine which has the 12V/50W coil system for the work light. I plan to switch to a PAR 36 LED which uses 9 watts and then install some heated grips, maybe the simplicity or Ariens ones as I like the look of them more than the Amazon ones. I know some folks run a rectifier and/or battery setup. I’d like to just run off the engine if it’s possible. It seems possible on paper with a 9 watt light and a 30-40 watt set of heated grips. Can anyone confirm? Does it work ok? What grips are you using?


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## Homesteader (Jan 12, 2019)

It will work fine. 

Remember to incorporate a bridge rectifier and capacitors in-line with the LED bulb.
Details:
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/#/topics/6602?page=128

If you don’t get enough lumens as expected from the LED you can wire the hand warmers in series to reduce the watts(and warmth) to increase the watts of the LED bulb or upgrade to a dedicated LED light bar. 

I’m using Ariens 721014 hand warmer kits on a ‘89 ST824 924050 repowered with a Tecumseh HMSK100 (10hp) and on a ‘93 ST1032 924084 repowered with a Tecumseh OHSK120 (12hp) both with 1.5A/18w AC.

If you wire the heaters in series, each will get 6V, not 12V. This will reduce their output to 1/2 of the original. So 12V, 35W heaters would put out 9W each, totaling 18w, if you wire them in series cutting their voltage in half you will stay at or below 18w.

To do this, you'd run one output from the alternator to wire A of one heater. You'd connect wire B of that heater to wire A of the second heater. Then wire B of the second heater would go to the alternator.

I have a 2A fuse wired in line before the toggle switch on the panel.


They don’t get as warm as my neighbor’s new machine but my hands don’t get cold using mine. 

Make sure the outer diameter of the handle bar matches the inner diameter of the heated grips for whichever kit you purchase.

Good luck!


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## Gotime (Jan 16, 2014)

I didn't think I needed to install a rectifier for the led bulb per this thread as long as I use the right bulb.
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...wap-honda-hs624-hs724-hs828-hs928-hs1132.html


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

Some of the newer Ariens heaters are wired in series from the factory. The ones on my Pro 28 are, for example. And even wired in series they're still around 40 watts and quite toasty.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

I used the Oxford Heated Grips on an HSS1332 wired to the battery. They work great.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

vmax29 said:


> I used the Oxford Heated Grips on an HSS1332 wired to the battery. They work great.


Do you remember which exact model of Oxford grips you used? OF692Z maybe? 25mm / 1" bar size, right?


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## ticolaq (Nov 16, 2017)

I installed the heater handle this way, because we rarely use the right handle!

12V ATV Bike Motorcycle Heating Grip Handlebar Hand Heater w/ Switch Accessories

I install both on the same side !

And I Installed volt meter to !


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Homesteader said:


> If you wire the heaters in series, each will get 6V, not 12V. This will reduce their output to 1/2 of the original. So 12V, 35W heaters would put out 9W each, totaling 18w, if you wire them in series cutting their voltage in half you will stay at or below 18w.


For a simple resistive load like a heater, if you go to 1/2 the voltage, you actually get 1/4 the power, not 1/2 the power. 

A 4 Ohm resistor, getting 12V, flows 3A, and puts out 36W. But change to 6V, and the current drops to 1.5A, and power output drops to 9W. 

Power = Volts * Amps 
or P=V*I
But when you reduce the volts, the amps are *also* reduced proportionally. So the power changes by the square of the voltage change. 

So you can wire heaters in series to reduce their power draw, just be aware that it will be a BIG drop in heat output. Your 12V 35W heaters, wired in series (6V each), are putting out 9W total, not 18W total. 

https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

tabora said:


> Do you remember which exact model of Oxford grips you used? OF692Z maybe? 25mm / 1" bar size, right?


It was the cruiser grips for 1” bars. Just checked, they are EL801Z

The Adventure Heated Grips EL690Z did NOT fit. 

I had to shim one of the grips (throttle side) to fit but the kit came with a plastic shim. If they make a kit for atv with 2 1” grips for a thumb throttle type setup it would be perfect. I don’t know if they make one. Hope that helps.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

vmax29 said:


> It was the cruiser grips for 1” bars. Just checked, they are EL801Z.


Thanks very much for that info! I just purchased a set new on eBay for only $35 including shipping. He had them listed as the OF692Z sport grips, but they were in fact the EL801Z Cruiser grips 25mm / 1" bar size. Hurray - can't wait for toasty fingers in this weather we've been having!


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

That’s a great buy on those. Nice!


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## Homesteader (Jan 12, 2019)

Thanks for the info! 

If the hand warmers are originally designed to be wired in series (pulling 35w) and is powered by a dedicated 18w/1.5A alternator(no light), then will the handwarmers burn out the alternator prematurely?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

What is the resistance across 1 heater? Or across both in series? Either answer will give enough info, as long as we know what the measurement is. The resistance would allow calculating whether they're 35W wired in series, or 35W wired in parallel. 

At any rate, if they're supposed to draw 35W when wired in series on a 12V source, then they're trying to draw 35W now, assuming they're still wired in series. So they'd be overloading an 18W alternator. As to whether that will burn it out, I don't know, but it probably can't be helping it. 

If they're 35W in series, then they'd try to draw much more when wired in parallel. 

The scenario that wouldn't overload the alternator would be if they're supposed to be 35W when wired in parallel, but they're actually wired in series.


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## allens209 (Jan 28, 2019)

A 12 volt 35 watt heater should be about 4.5 ohms. That would be about 2.8 amps. A 19 watt heater would max out your 1.5 amp alternator.


I use heated gloves. They are great for snow blowing, shoveling, tractor plowing, and riding my motorcycle in cooler weather too.


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## Homesteader (Jan 12, 2019)

RedOctobyr said:


> What is the resistance across 1 heater? Or across both in series? Either answer will give enough info, as long as we know what the measurement is. The resistance would allow calculating whether they're 35W wired in series, or 35W wired in parallel.
> 
> At any rate, if they're supposed to draw 35W when wired in series on a 12V source, then they're trying to draw 35W now, assuming they're still wired in series. So they'd be overloading an 18W alternator. As to whether that will burn it out, I don't know, but it probably can't be helping it.
> 
> ...





allens209 said:


> A 12 volt 35 watt heater should be about 4.5 ohms. That would be about 2.8 amps. A 19 watt heater would max out your 1.5 amp alternator.
> 
> 
> I use heated gloves. They are great for snow blowing, shoveling, tractor plowing, and riding my motorcycle in cooler weather too.


Did my homework. 

The resistance: 
one heater - 2.7 ohms @12v - 56w
In series - 5.1ohms @12v - 28w
In parallel - 1.5ohms @12v - 96w

They are wired in series from factory. 

I’m thinking of using a power converter/voltage regulator to push out 9v and keep it in spec with the 18w/1.5A altinator.

In series 5.1ohms @9v is 16w

DROK 12V to 9V 2A 18W DC-DC Buck Power Converter Voltage Regulator Transformer Voltage Step Down Power Supply Module Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C66JTPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JqIvCbQPXS3JY


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The 12V-9V adapter sounds perfect. Thanks for taking & sharing the measurements. That lets us avoid a lot of flawed assumptions, and can hopefully help someone else. 

You can also get adjustable-output-voltage converters, if you wanted the ability to dial in the voltage. Not saying you need that (9V sounds like it should work well for yours), just mentioning it if it helped someone else, perhaps with heaters of a different resistance. 

One example, which actually comes in a little enclosure, which seems somewhat uncommon:


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## allens209 (Jan 28, 2019)

That converter sounds perfect. The switching supplies are very efficient you won't lose much wattage to heat.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Completed the first steps of installing the Oxford Heated Grips EL801Z on my Honda HSS1332ATD. Got the old grips off with only minor bloodshed (and without destroying them). Installed the new grips inversely (left grip on right bar, etc.) so that the wires come down on the inside as @vmax29 did. I couldn't get the drive/auger lever interlock to work, so I made the adjustments to the grips with my die grinder to have them clear the levers, and then was able to adjust the auger lever so that the interlock worked. Now just need to swap my 18AH battery back onto the blower and hook up the electronics. Looking forward to toasty fingers!


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

Share some pics when your all done. So far mine have been working great! I shut off the battery saver and just switch them on and off as I need them. When I park it I just hook up the Battery Tender and it’s all set for the next storm.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Homesteader said:


> Did my homework.
> 
> The resistance:
> one heater - 2.7 ohms @12v - 56w
> ...



I have used a handful of the OE Cubcadet and the above shown Ariens hand warmers on the Hondas I have rebuilt, the best ones are the Ariens ones, the rubber coating is not too thick on them and they tend to warm right up. 



Here is the set installed on a recent HS1332 rebuild, the OE 15W coil was replaced with a OE HS928 3A/50W coil. The coil powers the 27W LED and the hand warmers. They are very toasty if they are running alone, not unbearable though, but if the LED is on then they are nice and warm. The owner has mentioned that he doesnt even need gloves if he uses the warmers.


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## Jarrad Morgan (Nov 17, 2018)

I know this is old but I’ve been searching the web trying to get my answer and I can’t seem to figure out what a stock (2019 Im guessing. Just bought it) pushes out for amps. I’ve seen 1 amp for older models but unsure about new ones (hss models)

As well I want to switch out to a 3 amp coil to help with the hand warmers I’ve put on (Oxford 4 amp) but Im unsure what to actually look for. I’ve been looking up gx390 coils and found some but when I look up hss1332atd coils they look different. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Jarrad Morgan said:


> hss1332atd coils


Electric start HSS models a have large multi-winding coil, which has three outputs, all AC volts:

(1) The Motor Coil, used to run the chute motors, generates 9V / 11A @ 3,350 rpm.
(2) The Charge Coil, used to charge the battery, generates 12V / 0.8A @ 3,000 rpm.
(3) The Lamp Coil, used to fire the LED worklamp, generates 11.5V / 0.36A @ 1950 rpm (and then goes up from there...don't have an exact spec for rated engine speed).

The chute motors and battery charging are converted to DC volts. The work lamp is supplied AC volts and the charging circuit and the chute motors each have a separate regulator/rectifier.

Those of us who have added Oxford grips are running them directly off the battery and have battery maintainers for when the blower is not in use.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

I also notice that I can preheat the Oxford hand warmers on high while plugged in on a 750ma Battery Tender Jr. without breaking a sweat. They are super warm and the tender is still showing a green light so it is in maintenance charge mode. Then the machine starts right up when ready. This is stored in the garage not outside in sub zero. Then you might want an engine block heater pad too.

All this and 60° here in January. Send me some snow. What a boring winter.


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## Jarrad Morgan (Nov 17, 2018)

So wait....can the coil be replaced like in the hs version? I don’t understand. I just ordered this on Amazon and from what I’ve read this is supposed to be the correct Replacement. Honda 31510-ZE2-P31 Coil Lamp (12V/50W)
If this isn’t the right one could you point me in the right direction? I understand that using the battery tender solves the problem kind of but I’d rather just know everything’s been charged correctly and not have to use it

I’m pretty good at working on vehicles but I don’t know whole lot about electrical


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Jarrad Morgan said:


> So wait....can the coil be replaced like in the hs version? I don’t understand. I just ordered this on Amazon and from what I’ve read this is supposed to be the correct Replacement. Honda 31510-ZE2-P31 Coil Lamp (12V/50W)


 Yes, the HS models had a fairly simple 3 or 15 or 25W coil (HS#4). You could double up 25W coils as well to get up to 50W (HS#3), which is what you ordered. The coils in the HSS ATDs (HSS#6) are completely different and are three-coils-in-one as previously posted (see Post 22). You need to keep the original HSS coil to run the chute/light/battery charger, unless you plan to completely rewire the whole electrical system.

HS Coils:










HSS Coil:


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## Jarrad Morgan (Nov 17, 2018)

Alright....bummer. Thank you guys for the correct information. You saved me a lot of trial and error and not to mention $$$. So I guess battery tender it is.

Only 2 hours on this new machine just from running it around and readjusting the engine speed. Not one flake of snow run though it yet and no “real” snow in sight jeez


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## kirky2126 (Feb 27, 2016)

When I added my lights led flood lights and (red led marker lights in the handles ) heated grips and hour meter I made up a relay harness to run everything it only works when machine in running I got voltage to turn on relay from rectifier ... working great for 3 years so far


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## Joe V (Dec 20, 2020)

RedOctobyr said:


> The 12V-9V adapter sounds perfect. Thanks for taking & sharing the measurements. That lets us avoid a lot of flawed assumptions, and can hopefully help someone else.
> 
> You can also get adjustable-output-voltage converters, if you wanted the ability to dial in the voltage. Not saying you need that (9V sounds like it should work well for yours), just mentioning it if it helped someone else, perhaps with heaters of a different resistance.
> 
> One example, which actually comes in a little enclosure, which seems somewhat uncommon:


This converter is DC to DC...I believe you would need to rectify it first with a 12VAC to 12VDC rectifier...then use the 12VDC to 9VDC converter.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

The newer HS models all come with the smaller 15W/1A coil, if I am rebuilding a machine that would get the handwarmer and an LED then I upgrade the smaller coil to the larger 50W/3A OE coils and they run the handwarmers and the LED light without an issue. I usually only put an 18W LED light if the handwarmers are also installed. I havent tried to use the newer coils from the HSS machines as the needs are adequately met by the 50W/3A coils.


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## AclockworkBlue (Nov 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> Yes, the HS models had a fairly simple 3 or 15 or 25W coil (HS#4). You could double up 25W coils as well to get up to 50W (HS#3), which is what you ordered. The coils in the HSS ATDs (HSS#6) are completely different and are three-coils-in-one as previously posted (see Post 22). You need to keep the original HSS coil to run the chute/light/battery charger, unless you plan to completely rewire the whole electrical system.


Can the HSS724atd run the Oxford heated grips?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

AclockworkBlue said:


> Can the HSS724atd run the Oxford heated grips?


The HSS1332AATD has a 1/2U 18Ah battery, while the HSS724AATD only comes with a 12Ah battery. The Oxford grips draw a bit less than 4A on maximum, so yes, but for 1/3 less time? Of course, the charge coil helps to offset this.


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## AclockworkBlue (Nov 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> The HSS1332AATD has a 1/2U 18Ah battery, while the HSS724AATD only comes with a 12Ah battery. The Oxford grips draw a bit less than 4A on maximum, so yes, but for 1/3 less time? Of course, the charge coil helps to offset this.
> [/QUOTE
> 
> Thanks taboos, you’re always so helpful. So could I buy a 1/2U 18Ah for my HSS724ATD to get that 1/3 time, or it doesn’t work like that?
> ...


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

AclockworkBlue said:


> So could I buy a 1/2U 18Ah for my HSS724ATD to get that 1/3 time, or it doesn’t work like that?
> So will the Oxford drain my battery?


Assuming that you have the tall battery cover, yes you can upgrade to a 1/2U battery. You'll need the different battery tray and hold down strap, too. You may also need the longer battery ground cable?

I have an Optimate4 battery maintainer that plugs into a pigtail off the battery that I reconnect every time I back the blower into the garage.











00231500-V45-811BATTERY (HR19-12) (FOR CALIFORNIA) (MSDS)10000019999999


00331504-V45-A10ZACOVER, BATTERY _NH1_ (BLACK)10000019999999


00531533-V45-A51BOLT-WASHER (6X12)10000019999999


00631559-V45-A50RUBBER, BATTERY10000019999999


00832600-V45-A50CABLE ASSY., GROUND10000019999999


00950327-V45-A50BAND, BATTERY10000019999999


01054243-V45-A10GROMMET, COVER10000019999999


01163103-V21-000BELT, ENGINE COVER10000019999999


01283601-MB0-000GROMMET A, SIDE COVER10000019999999


01390013-883-000BOLT, FLANGE (6X12) (CT200)10000019999999


01490651-KV6-003BAND, WIRE (165MM) (BLACK)10000019999999


01591541-S0A-003CLIP, HARNESS BAND (145MM) (BLACK)10000019999999


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

@vmax29 @tabora I was looking into the oxford grips you guys installed. It doesnt look like the oxford EL801Z is a good part number. Do we have 7/8 or 1" handle bars?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

drmerdp said:


> I was looking into the oxford grips


1" (25.4mm - same as cruiser bars). Mine are EL801Z. That's the V2 model with the improved controller. The older model is EL800Z. I paid $20.50 plus shipping on eBay.








Oxford Heaterz Premium Cruiser Heated Grips - RevZilla


Oxford Premium Heaterz Grips offer five different heat settings to get you through a chilly evening or a cold winter.




www.revzilla.com


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