# Chute won't rotate



## jtstott

Hey guys,
Getting excited to give my 32" Pro its first use.
One problem the chute seems jammed and will not rotate (stuck to the left).
It would rotate when it was delivered, but was a little sticky.
I would rather try to fix this myself rather than beg the dealer to send someone to my house.
Any suggestions on how to fix this??

Thanks!
Jason


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## ken53

Hi Jason
Most of the Dealers in my area don't spend much time fine tuning that chute Lever.

When you move the hand lever, "three" separate actions take place almost at the same time.
First the cable gets pulled releasing the chute to move, and next the rotating takes place. Then last the cable gets relaxed and it relocks the chute, so it stays in place.

Under the plastic cover next to the chute is the cable length adjustment. You need to lengthen the cable "jacket" so the actual cable pulls sooner and farther. This will pull the little fingers that lock the chute rotation so you can commence turning the chute. 

With that plastic cover off just play with it for a while. 

Also take a real good look at the underside of the hand lever, and note how the lever in the dash actually pulls that cable, when you first start the movement of the lever. The lever has a very unique double action design. Try to analyze how it works by viewing it from under the dash. 

After 2-3 minutes it will all make sense to you and you will know how to adjust the length of the cable to your liking.

I put a little oil on "all" the related parts in the handle and at the chute. This helped it work very nice and smooth.

Ken


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## JRHAWK9

ken53 said:


> Hi Jason
> Most of the Dealers in my area don't spend much time fine tuning that chute Lever.
> 
> When you move the hand lever, "three" separate actions take place almost at the same time.
> First the cable gets pulled releasing the chute to move, and next the rotating takes place. Then last the cable gets relaxed and it relocks the chute, so it stays in place.
> 
> Under the plastic cover next to the chute is the cable length adjustment. You need to lengthen the cable "jacket" so the actual cable pulls sooner and farther. This will pull the little fingers that lock the chute rotation so you can commence turning the chute.
> 
> With that plastic cover off just play with it for a while.
> 
> Also take a real good look at the underside of the hand lever, and note how the lever in the dash actually pulls that cable, when you first start the movement of the lever. The lever has a very unique double action design. Try to analyze how it works by viewing it from under the dash.
> 
> After 2-3 minutes it will all make sense to you and you will know how to adjust the length of the cable to your liking.
> 
> I put a little oil on "all" the related parts in the handle and at the chute. This helped it work very nice and smooth.
> 
> Ken


I agree. I bought mine in a crate as I didn't want anybody touching it but me. I got to set it up myself correctly right from the start. I suggest the OP go over his machine with a fine tooth comb and check/adjust everything correctly, as I doubt it was set up that way by the dealership.

I use a product called Beaver Research Slick. It's a teflon-enriched lube that will withstand temperatures down to -30°F. I've tried oil, white-lithium grease, WD-40, etc and nothing works as good in the cold or for as long as Slick does. The cold doesn't affect it. WD-40 works good as a cleaner and water repellant, but that's about it.


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## jtstott

Well that was easy. Thanks Ken!!


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## ken53

Thanks 

I'll check into the Beaver Research Slick. It sounds like the stuff to use.

The two weird pivot points at the base of our hand lever. The ones that actually cause the pulling action on the cable before the lever starts to rotate the chute. These pivot points, I found benefit from lubricant.

Since I oiled these my chute unlocks and locks much quicker and consistent.

Ken


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