# Sears 536.918401 26" 8hp Bent impeller assembly



## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

Hello my old 26" 8hp snowblower (late 80's or 90's), may be a Murray (some parts sears sell have murray part numbers) has a bent impeller assembly, p/n 47257 no longer available.
Wont throw snow more than 2 feet, was gonna install a rubber impeller kit when i noticed bent metal blades and metal arms that hold the blades bent.
My dilema is,,, do i remove the bent impeller and try to bend 2 of the 4 blades parts back into shape and hopefully no plastic bearings in the auger fall apart or any other no longer available parts break?

Or do i try to bend it back to shape while its still mounted to snowblower.

And I wondered if anyone know of a like part impeller that may fit my machine?

Any thoughts?
Thanks


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

Could you post the machine model and serial number, I tried googling that part number with no success.
As for bending, my experience has been once the metal has started bending, it will continue.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

1) It is not working in that condition.

2) Taking the impeller out and repairing it back to original condition is what I would do. (you might want to consider tacking an identical rib on the backside of each fin for strength) also (trying to bang it back into shape in its housing would be a damaging task to undertake in my opinion)

Be aware, this will require separating the unit, removing the augers, removing the pulley, etc. ....

One good thing as well, it will allow you to replace out worn bushings/bearings, get everything properly lubed, and give you the ability to clean and paint the surfaces.

I would not open the auger gear case, unless of course it is leaking and you want to change the seals or you know it is broke.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

3vanman said:


> Could you post the machine model and serial number, I tried googling that part number with no success.
> As for bending, my experience has been once the metal has started bending, it will continue.


Sears model number is
536.918401


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> Hello my old 26" 8hp snowblower (late 80's or 90's), may be a Murray (some parts sears sell have murray part numbers) has a bent impeller assembly, p/n 47257 no longer available.
> 
> And I wondered if anyone know of a like part impeller that may fit my machine?
> 
> ...


Just found some info on that machine, looks like it is actually an early 80's, maybe late 70's. 
The manual/file I found says August 1980.
After looking at the parts diagram, I will confess my snow blower knowledge does not go back that far, and although I do have many older machines in my parts collection, nothing of a similar design.


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

That is going to be a difficult task if you don't take the machine apart.Send us a picture of the damage fins.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

Ok I will take some pictures later today
Thanks


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## Mortten (Jan 31, 2020)

A 536 number is a Murry


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I have not had that model blower in my shop but I have had several close model numbers. If the vanes are bent then as has been mentioned, take the auger housing apart and bend the vanes back into shape. Depending on how badly they are bent, you may have to apply a little heat also. Don't heat the vanes so much you take the temper out of them. On one machine I even welded in some diagonal braces to help hold the vanes at the correct angle and reinforce the vane to some that didn't have them or had been severely bent previously. Here's a picture of one that the vanes were straightened out.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

Here are some photos


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)




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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Couple things ...

First, I have seen a lot worse impeller fins, and you probably can bend them back in place, althogh certainly a dismantle would give you complete freedom to put them properly back to factory.

Also note, if that was my machine, I would remove the lawn tires and put on a nice pair of XTrac, which require no chains.

I also would remove those round thin metal skids, and put on a nice pair of Arnold Poly Roller Skids, which means drilling another hole in the bucket.

It also looks like your cutting edge is wore down to the bucket, but cant quite tell.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Also, when was the last time you pulled that plug on your auger gear box ? it would take 80W-90 gear oil full to that front level plug.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Someone custom painted it? 
Clean up the shed all ready. 

The chain looks dry, have you looked inside yet?
Best to take it out to work on it.
Do the impeller mod when you have it off?


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

oneacer said:


> Also, when was the last time you pulled that plug on your auger gear box ? it would take 80W-90 gear oil full to that front level plug.


2 years ago swaped out gear oil, maybe 20 hours.

My big question is how bad of issue will i have pulling out the auger and finding/replacing bearings if they fall apart?
Auger is tight, no wiggling, I will find out tomorrow when i pull all apart.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

Big Ed said:


> Someone custom painted it?
> Clean up the shed all ready.
> 
> The chain looks dry, have you looked inside yet?
> ...


Was gonna do impeller mod to get it throwing snow again..
Clean the shed? Its not Saturday or Spring yet.. 😂


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

That impeller sure looks beat up. In fact the one I posted the picture of, IIRC came from a similar machine. Get the torch, anvil, a big hammer and some wrenches out and I'm betting you can get those vanes returned to original shape. If that's a 14" impeller, virtually any impeller from a comparable era housing will fit also. I've straightened quite a few impellers on those style machines, though I admit I haven't seen one quite that bad. The tractor and auger units are similar to the Searsasaurus starting point. You will need to split off the auger assembly and do some disassembly work to get the impeller off to straighten it out.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

HCBPH said:


> That impeller sure looks beat up. In fact the one I posted the picture of, IIRC came from a similar machine. Get the torch, anvil, a big hammer and some wrenches out and I'm betting you can get those vanes returned to original shape. If that's a 14" impeller, virtually any impeller from a comparable era housing will fit also. I've straightened quite a few impellers on those style machines, though I admit I haven't seen one quite that bad. The tractor and auger units are similar to the Searsasaurus starting point. You will need to split off the auger assembly and do some disassembly work to get the impeller off to straighten it out.


I measured the space the impeller goes in and its 14". There is a 14" sticker on outside top of the snowblower near the chute.
If i cant unbend impeller, How would one find some older 14" impellers that you spoke of in your post?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Ariens Sno-thro Impeller - 14 Inch 4 Blade - Ariens


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Ariens 14" Snowblower Impeller 00485551 SnowBlowersAtJacks


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

oneacer said:


> Ariens 14" Snowblower Impeller 00485551 SnowBlowersAtJacks


Would i have to drill new mounting holes on the drive shaft, or do they line up?

Does it matter which one 4 blade vs 3 blade, or does one work better than the other with my setup?

I am hopeful that I repair mine but glad to have a backup plan!!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I am sure yours can be brought back to new like condition ... Take the time to clean it up and paint it if you can .....


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

you could probably hammer them back as a temporary fix but if you are planning on keeping the machine you should probably cut them off and get them replaced with some thicker made ones or to weld some thicker plates to the impeller to stiffen it up so it will never bend like that again. it definitely seems like they impeller blades on that are made of of material that is just too thin for what it is doing.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> I measured the space the impeller goes in and its 14". There is a 14" sticker on outside top of the snowblower near the chute.
> If i cant unbend impeller, How would one find some older 14" impellers that you spoke of in your post?


Pretty sure I have one from an older Craftsman in the parts pile, might even be the one in the picture. The back looks a little different that yours but bet it wouldn't make a difference with proper planning and maybe some mods. Here's the 3 options I see, but realize all 3 will require you disassembling the auger housing and pulling the impeller shaft out.
1 heat and bend yours back into shape. I use a vice, a mapp torch along with a big hammer, big crescent wrench and channel lock pliers. You want to finesse the vanes back into shape a little at a time. Don't rush it or you'll bend the back plate up big time and could even break the vanes off. I usually clamp an edge of the vane I'm working on in the vice, then use heat and other tools to work it back into shape.
2 find a comparable Craftsman parts snow blower. Use your handle assembly and the 14 on the auger housing as a guide when looking at one as the tractor units and most of the auger parts interchange between certain machines of that era. Any one of the ones with the gear transmission (Tecumseh Peerless unit) with a 7 hp or larger engine should fit just fine, in fact I've swapped a lot of parts between them including the Searsasaurus. One advantage here is with a parts machine, you'll have additional parts if you need them in the future. Most of the parts machines I bought cost me $25 or less in the past. You might have to swap out the impeller shaft also if the impeller profile differs from yours.
3 If you pay postage, you can have the spare parts impeller I think I have (pretty sure I have one in the parts pile) for the cost of postage. Like I said, look at the profile of the back plate on your impeller vs. the one I posted. I know for a fact all the ones I've had have a flat back plate on the impeller. It could move the impeller forward in the housing if you just replace yours with another. You might be able to redrill the impeller shaft to move the hub back, but you'll want a drill press and a few other things to do that correctly.

If it was mine, I think I'd do it in the order listed.

Update - just had a 4th idea (though I've never done this one), call this one 1A. Cut the rivets off the vanes, now you have full access to the vanes, loose from the backing plate. Use the tools listed in #2 to straighten them out. Once straight, either check with possibly machine shops to re-rivet them back onto the backing plate or maybe try reatttaching them using bolts and self locking nuts.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

HCBPH said:


> Pretty sure I have one from an older Craftsman in the parts pile, might even be the one in the picture. The back looks a little different that yours but bet it wouldn't make a difference with proper planning and maybe some mods. Here's the 3 options I see, but realize all 3 will require you disassembling the auger housing and pulling the impeller shaft out.
> 1 heat and bend yours back into shape. I use a vice, a mapp torch along with a big hammer, big crescent wrench and channel lock pliers. You want to finesse the vanes back into shape a little at a time. Don't rush it or you'll bend the back plate up big time and could even break the vanes off. I usually clamp an edge of the vane I'm working on in the vice, then use heat and other tools to work it back into shape.
> 2 find a comparable Craftsman parts snow blower. Use your handle assembly and the 14 on the auger housing as a guide when looking at one as the tractor units and most of the auger parts interchange between certain machines of that era. Any one of the ones with the gear transmission (Tecumseh Peerless unit) with a 7 hp or larger engine should fit just fine, in fact I've swapped a lot of parts between them including the Searsasaurus. One advantage here is with a parts machine, you'll have additional parts if you need them in the future. Most of the parts machines I bought cost me $25 or less in the past. You might have to swap out the impeller shaft also if the impeller profile differs from yours.
> 3 If you pay postage, you can have the spare parts impeller I think I have (pretty sure I have one in the parts pile) for the cost of postage. Like I said, look at the profile of the back plate on your impeller vs. the one I posted. I know for a fact all the ones I've had have a flat back plate on the impeller. It could move the impeller forward in the housing if you just replace yours with another. You might be able to redrill the impeller shaft to move the hub back, but you'll want a drill press and a few other things to do that correctly.
> ...


I removed it took 2 hours
I bent back the arms
the plate is warped, haven't heated it yet or welded supports on it yet the metal is not bendable by hand but easily bends with a wrench. 
not sure if i have the ability to staighten it totally
i took some pictures
I'm wondering about replacing it (your parts pile?) i took measurements for the picture
or 
may have to weld supports and then add the rubber parts but its warped, but machine is 40 years old and it was warped before.
other than a "bearing" on the left side holding the shaft being scratched on one end, and the transmission shifting hard (havent checked any fluid in the transmission yet, sometime hard to find reverse)
the machine runs, well i do have the snow throwing issue i am tackling


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

That's looking a whole lot better! I think some of your distortion of the back plate may be due to some one the vanes still needing a little finessing as it looks like they aren't all on the same plane. If you had an anvil, I'd suggest that. If not (which I don't), I got myself a piece of angle iron (3" or better per side and 12" long or better) and clamp it down to an old saw horse I have. I work the vanes and braces on that like an anvil so I can straighten them out as needed, the hammer I use is a heavy maul I picked up some years back. You could also use a piece of I-beam if you can find a piece heavy enough, I have a scrap metal dealer in the area and can buy cutoffs. Big thing is you need to get it up high enough so the impeller clears the ground as you bang on it. Get as much of warpage as you can out of the back plate once the vanes are done, but then again I've had a couple of blowers where the impeller back plate had a little warpage in it and as long as it didn't induce any vibration, I didn't worry about it.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

HCBPH said:


> That's looking a whole lot better! I think some of your distortion of the back plate may be due to some one the vanes still needing a little finessing as it looks like they aren't all on the same plane. If you had an anvil, I'd suggest that. If not (which I don't), I got myself a piece of angle iron (3" or better per side and 12" long or better) and clamp it down to an old saw horse I have. I work the vanes and braces on that like an anvil so I can straighten them out as needed, the hammer I use is a heavy maul I picked up some years back. You could also use a piece of I-beam if you can find a piece heavy enough, I have a scrap metal dealer in the area and can buy cutoffs. Big thing is you need to get it up high enough so the impeller clears the ground as you bang on it. Get as much of warpage as you can out of the back plate once the vanes are done, but then again I've had a couple of blowers where the impeller back plate had a little warpage in it and as long as it didn't induce any vibration, I didn't worry about it.


Goin Christmas shopping for myself tomorrow.... Anvil shopping!!!!
Got my mapp gas and 1lb, 2lb, 5lb, 10lb, 18lb hammers ready!!


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

So i cut the rivits off the vanes, gonna use some scrap metal and make some new ones and support weld and bolt them on the plate. Gonna copy the original design, and add more support.
The plate is warped so i have to straighten that 1st.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

The newer impeller designs do not use single plane metal like yours, since it is easily bent. The newer impeller design parts are formed into angled and multi angled shapes that look much stronger. Attached is a pic of my 6 bladed 14" impeller as an example of more current engineering. The metal is 1/8" thick so easily bent and welded.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

Town said:


> The newer impeller designs do not use single plane metal like yours, since it is easily bent. The newer impeller design parts are formed into angled and multi angled shapes that look much stronger. Attached is a pic of my 6 bladed 14" impeller as an example of more current engineering. The metal is 1/8" thick so easily bent and welded.
> View attachment 172349


Hi
Would it be possible to measure the actual 14 inches and see if its exactly 14? My old one is 13.5"
Would it be possible to mease the axle hole diameter too?
Thanks


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

[email protected] said:


> Hi
> Would it be possible to measure the actual 14 inches and see if its exactly 14? My old one is 13.5"
> Would it be possible to mease the axle hole diameter too?
> Thanks


The impeller shaft is .874 measured with digital calipers so 7/8". The impeller is a nominal 14" but includes the clearance for the impeller housing which is actually 14" in diameter. The stock gap is about 3/16" so impeller diameter is about 13 and 7/8".

Your 13.5" impeller probably fits into your 14" impeller housing with a 1/4" clearance. Your impeller width is about 5 and 3/8" but there is very little angle at the tip. The newer blades have a significant bend at the tip and are not as wide, mine is about 4 and 1/4" wide. I think the bent tip helps keep the snow on the blade to a certain extent.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

My mistake, impeller should be about 13 and 5/8".


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

Town said:


> My mistake, impeller should be about 13 and 5/8".


is there a Part number for that 6 blade impeller?
a 4 blade and 3 blade were mentioned above with p/n
just checking my options here if i fail on the repair


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

[email protected] said:


> is there a Part number for that 6 blade impeller?
> a 4 blade and 3 blade were mentioned above with p/n
> just checking my options here if i fail on the repair


The 6 blade is from an older Ariens 926501 part number 00258451
The 4 blade is from an older Ariens 926014 thru 926500 part number 00258251
The 3 blade is from any current Ariens such as 926069 Rapidtrack or 921040, etc and part number 00485551

Good luck with your repair.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

The 3 and 6 blade are interchangeable, but I am not familiar with the 4 blade. The 6 blade is just over 9 lbs and relatively expensive but has huge blades compared to current 3 blade and performs better. A number of machines use a 4 blade impeller.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

oneacer said:


> Also, when was the last time you pulled that plug on your auger gear box ? it would take 80W-90 gear oil full to that front level plug.


My manual say SAE 30 WT oil or equivalent for the auger gear box.
Shud I change to thr 80W-90 gear oil?


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> My manual say SAE 30 WT oil or equivalent for the auger gear box.
> Shud I change to thr 80W-90 gear oil?


When in doubt, I go with what the owners manual has in it. Auger gear boxes are low speed, but gear oil might be too thick in some cases. Be aware, not all differential gear oil is the same. I don't remember the name, but some gear oil will attack bronze gears. I had the same issue with a wood planer gearbox needing oil that was filled with bronze gears. I spent a lot of time researching it and found that Valvoline had something that would work and not attack the bronze parts in the gearbox.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> I removed it took 2 hours
> I bent back the arms
> the plate is warped, haven't heated it yet or welded supports on it yet the metal is not bendable by hand but easily bends with a wrench.
> not sure if i have the ability to staighten it totally
> ...


That would look nice with some fresh paint.
Too bad you did this when it was cold, you had it all apart, a great time to do some painting. 
Paint it this summer?
I think I saw sets of decals for that, not sure.
Where are you located? State?

Edit, I know old thread, but the OP was just on.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2018)

Gonna do a engine tear down, so,, will probally repaint also 
In Salem Massachusetts


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

[email protected] said:


> Gonna do a engine tear down, so,, will probally repaint also
> In Salem Massachusetts


Just wanted to drop in and say that I am wicked jealous of your machine. If one of those popped up [especially with the auger mounted light kit] I would call in sick from work to go get it immediately.


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