# Husqvarna ST227P Impeller Pulley Removal?



## NHsnow

I have asked a couple questions in other threads, but at the suggestion of another user, I'm starting a new one with my specific question. The impeller in my Husqvarna ST227P (bought new last year) bent and now it rubs on a bolt and makes a terrible noise when engaged. I can see where it bent, but I just can't get to it. My thought is if I can remove the shaft and then the impeller I should be able to bend it back, or replace it. The thing is I can't figure out how to remove it. I found the parts diagram but I can't figure out how to remove the auger pulley. It has a nut on and it's called a "pulley screw on" so I figured I could unscrew it from the shaft but it won't budge. I didn't force it (yet) because I wasn't sure if I was missing something. The only YouTube video I can find only shows how to replace a belt. Very helpful, in general, but not with my specific issue. I also tried to remove the augers and remove the impeller that way by sliding it off the front after removing the shear pins, but there's some sort of pin on the shaft so I can't remove it.
It's very frustrating because I'm almost to where I need to be, but not quite. And I feel like I'm missing something very simple. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


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## RIT333

Many find that dripping or spraying PB Blaster will help to loosen up rust - assuming that you have taken off all of the necessary set screws, etc. that hold the pulley on the shaft. You may even try tapping the shaft/pulley with a hammer to vibrate it, and get the PB Blaster to penetrate better. Or, you can use a set of pickle forks as a wedge to help loosen the pulley - providing there is enough room. It may take a few days for the PB Blaster to do its thing, but it should be very helpful.


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## Jackmels

A Torch will Make this Easier, and Ball Joint Fork as RT suggested, along with a large hammer will pop it off in no time.


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## NHsnow

Success!!! The PB Blaster did the trick. Sprayed it on, let it sit, then the auger pulley unscrewed with a little elbow grease. Got the impeller out, hammered out the bent piece, got it all back together and I'm all ready for the next big snow! Thanks for the help!


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## RIT333

Fan-tastic, or is it impeller-tastic.

PB Blaster IS great stuff.


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## PheonixCT

I have a similar issue. My impeller fins are bent and I'm getting stuck removing the pulley screw from the impeller shaft. How were you able to prevent the shaft rotation?


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## mugzy

We just purchased a Husqvarna ST 224 on Dec 3rd so this blower is brand new. Anyway, the plow truck did their usual road side clean up during this last storm and what i did not know was that a few larger size rocks were hidden in the pile at the end of my driveway and of course I hit them with the snowblower. I started noticing this rattling noise, and upon closer inspection one of the impeller blades bend back and pushed the piece so when it runs it's rubbing on the bolts. I read this thread and it sounds just like my issue, and I followed the advice on here, but I have tried alot of the PB Blaster and used my socket pushing down on the nut thats fused to the pulley wheel (part states its a screw on pulley wheel) but it won't budge... any ideas on what I am doing wrong? I'd think with it being a new blower that parts would be easier to remove, not harder... Very frustrated any help would be greatly appreciated  Thanks and hope you have a wonderful Christmas


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## Snowman1969

*Need to Replace Impeller*



PheonixCT said:


> I have a similar issue. My impeller fins are bent and I'm getting stuck removing the pulley screw from the impeller shaft. How were you able to prevent the shaft rotation?



So I have the same issue, bent fins on the Impeller, I have everything apart, the Impeller is on the shaft, I have removed the Shear Bolts, and I am trying to remove the Impeller, but it gets stopped, do I need to remove the pin in front of the impeller, and remove the shaft from the gearbox? or am I just not being forceful enough trying to remove it from then Pulley side of the shaft.


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## Obdare11

Snowman1969 said:


> PheonixCT said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a similar issue. My impeller fins are bent and I'm getting stuck removing the pulley screw from the impeller shaft. How were you able to prevent the shaft rotation?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I have the same issue, bent fins on the Impeller, I have everything apart, the Impeller is on the shaft, I have removed the Shear Bolts, and I am trying to remove the Impeller, but it gets stopped, do I need to remove the pin in front of the impeller, and remove the shaft from the gearbox? or am I just not being forceful enough trying to remove it from then Pulley side of the shaft.
Click to expand...

I am having the same problem getting the pulley off. Any suggestions?


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## RIT333

I'm not sure why people are having such a hard time removing parts from a practically brand new machine. I can get them off my 10 year old machines with a bit of effort. Next - why are people removing the impeller just to straighten out the fins. Can you do it while it is still on the shaft - granted, it needs to be removed from the bucket first.


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## Dauntae

They can't get the pulley off so can't remove from the bucket, Hoping my brother doesn't have any issues with his 224, Might have to pull his abart just to never seize the crap out of it before it's a issue.


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## goddahooch

Amazing that there is a forum out there that features the exact obscure problem that i have in detail. removing the impeller! And since the posts were helpful in leading to my solution. I decided to give back and post my solution as to how to get the shaft to sit still, while your trying to get the pulley unscrewed! 
After you have separated the front half of the blower from the back half (the motor part of it)and exposed the flywheel... lay the flywheel part flat and put the PB Blaster to it and let it soak in overnight. you have also already removed the shoot from the housing. now you can insert a large pipe wrench down thru the shoot and get the teeth around the shaft right about where that little pin is thru the shaft. the shaft will want to rotate counterclockwise so set the wrench so the teeth will grab when the shaft tries to spin. now heat up the nut on the flywheel with a torch for extra help. get a good sturdy crescent on the flywheel nut and turn it counterclockwise. check that the pipe wrench is locking on the shaft and the shoot will hold that pipe wrench in place for you so you can really pull on the crescent. a few tugs and mine broke free with out busting my knuckles on anything! Amazing. new impeller on order and ill have it back together soon. I tried to hammer my bent impeller flat, and ended up hurting myself so i just ordered a new part. 
I took pictures to try to help show how I set the pipe wrench but i cant figure out how to upload pictures here. feel free to email me and ill sent pics to you. [email protected]

Many Thanks to all who have posted!


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## dr bob

goddahooch said:


> A....
> 
> I took pictures to try to help show how I set the pipe wrench but i cant figure out how to upload pictures here. feel free to email me and ill sent pics to you
> 
> .....


To add pics to your post, click the "advanced" tab under the "quick reply" window. You can do this after you've typed your reply, and your added text will migrate with you to the "advanced" page. On that page, there's section down the page with a "manage attachments" button. That takes you to the page for moving your pictures into the post. Instructions there will let you grab your picture files from your computer, and upload them to your post. Preview your post to confirm it's what you want to share. Then "post replay" will put it up for others here.


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## Robbie James Campbell

I got it!!!!!! I've also been struggling. Set front half of blower face down love a metal base ball bat down throw shoot and use a 7/8 4 point tire iron!


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## dbert

I find it interesting that in the last 13 months 6 people in this thread have bent the impellers on their Husqvarna's.


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## 1132le

iam not after looking at one person


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## old ope mechanic

dbert said:


> I find it interesting that in the last 13 months 6 people in this thread have bent the impellers on their Husqvarna's.


make that 8,i have 2 husky's in for repair that have bent up impellers and augers , both have worn out the plastic skids in very low single digit hours that allowed the housing to drag pull off the sheaves, wind them up around both auger and impeller that seem to lock in place to what people are talking about here. what a mess

asking the local ope selling dealer, OH we see it all the time,


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## Zavie

old ope mechanic said:


> make that 8,i have 2 husky's in for repair that have bent up impellers and augers , both have worn out the plastic skids in very low single digit hours that allowed the housing to drag pull off the sheaves, wind them up around both auger and impeller that seem to lock in place to what people are talking about here. what a mess
> 
> asking the local ope selling dealer, OH we see it all the time,


Worn out plastic skids on a husky? After 3 seasons my OEM skids still look brand new! Of course it could be the fact that they never got used. Just for fun I made my own skids, and they are still in excellent condition.


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## old ope mechanic

yes worn out plastic skids , made my own that look more like 1/4 inch thick snow skis that should need the problem, 
dealer wise this one nicknamed rip off don, sells then finds anything he can to not repair under warranty.


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## GeekOnTheHill

dbert said:


> I find it interesting that in the last 13 months 6 people in this thread have bent the impellers on their Husqvarna's.


It happens all the time up here. Sometimes a piece of gravel gets wedged in there, and sometimes a rock just pops up out of the ground when it freezes, and you don't see it because it's buried under the snow.

Usually it can be bent back into shape with a hammer and/or a Vise-Grip. But the repeated quick-fixes do tend to cause balance problems over times; so every third season, on average, I replace it and keep the old one as a spare that can be used in a pinch. That's actually what I'm doing now, along with replacing the belts, the chute base, the spark plug, and doing other routine maintenance.










I'm taking a break because the new impeller and belts haven't arrived. They should be in today, says USPS tracking. We shall see.

Getting the pulley off is no big deal. Spray the penetrating oil of your choice on the threads, go have a cup of coffee, and then jam something down the chute to block the impeller from moving while you unscrew the pulley.

The other problem people run into is that the shaft forms a little ridge that prevents the impeller from coming off. I just grind the ridge off with a stone in an electric drill or a Dremel. I suppose a file or emery cloth would work, too.

The only serious problem I ever had with my ST-224 was when I stripped the spark plug hole replacing the plug. I'd left it in there too long and it seized. It was an easy fix with a Helicoil once I managed to find one out here in the Middle of Nowhere. But it did involve some cussing.

Richard


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## Justin Jay

How do I get the auger shaft out after removing pulley. Trying to replace bent impeller. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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## RIT333

Justin Jay said:


> How do I get the auger shaft out after removing pulley. Trying to replace bent impeller. Any help would be greatly appreciated



There are a lot of ways, and sometimes you have to use a combination of all of them - unless you get lucky.


An acetylene torch with a rosebud tip to break the rust, then a big hammer/sledge.


Dripping PB Blaster through the shaft for maybe a week, and then the same hammer/sledge.


An 8-ton or so, bearing press.


You may want to look for some YouTube videos with different methods.


It is not gonna be fun, nor easy. Take your time, and say some prayers.


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## Justin Jay

All bolts I believe have been taken out and seems to be loose. Just will not allow shaft to move forward past the back of the bucket. No idea why it is not sliding out. The only thing I see left is the
Little pin that was in front of she shear bolts of the impeller


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## RIT333

Looks like the bearing had some rust. Maybe it is rusted to the bucket. Try some PB Blaster around that, and then give it some "gentle taps" trying not to bugger up any threads or mushroom the end.


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## SnowBum

Does anyone know how to replace the impeller after removing the augers from the bucket? I was able to get the shaft out of the bucket, but now the impeller will not slide back off the shaft since there is a small lip behind it. Has anyone taken an impeller off completely? 

Sadly this is another another case of a bent impeller on the ST224. It's frustrating that the sheer pins didn't let go before the impeller and belt


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## RIT333

SnowBum said:


> Does anyone know how to replace the impeller after removing the augers from the bucket? I was able to get the shaft out of the bucket, but now the impeller will not slide back off the shaft since there is a small lip behind it. Has anyone taken an impeller off completely?
> 
> Sadly this is another another case of a bent impeller on the ST224. It's frustrating that the sheer pins didn't let go before the impeller and belt



Sounds like it may be rusted to the shaft - which may be why the sheer pin is not doing its job. I would hit it with a wire brush, and some sandpaper, and maybe even a file if that doesn't work. Then, some PB Blaster, and a BFH to persuade it to move.


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## GeekOnTheHill

SnowBum said:


> Does anyone know how to replace the impeller after removing the augers from the bucket? I was able to get the shaft out of the bucket, but now the impeller will not slide back off the shaft since there is a small lip behind it. Has anyone taken an impeller off completely?
> 
> Sadly this is another another case of a bent impeller on the ST224. It's frustrating that the sheer pins didn't let go before the impeller and belt


I've taken them off several times due to rock-related injuries to the impeller.

As far as I know, the little ridge develops over time and is not a design feature. I just persuade the impeller past the ridge with a mallet, and then sand, file, or grind the ridge off before installing the new impeller. 

I've also persuaded impellers off shafts by holding the impeller horizontally with the rear side facing down, and gently tapping the rear end of the shaft against the cement floor of my basement; then removing the ridge before installing the new impeller.

It's never taken a whole lot of effort to remove the impeller. Possibly the problem is more rust-related than ridge-related in your case? Penetrating oil may be your friend.

You make a good point about the shear bolts not shearing. I wonder if maybe using only one on the impeller might be a workaround.

Richard


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## sameproblem

NHsnow said:


> I have asked a couple questions in other threads, but at the suggestion of another user, I'm starting a new one with my specific question. The impeller in my Husqvarna ST227P (bought new last year) bent and now it rubs on a bolt and makes a terrible noise when engaged. I can see where it bent, but I just can't get to it. My thought is if I can remove the shaft and then the impeller I should be able to bend it back, or replace it. The thing is I can't figure out how to remove it. I found the parts diagram but I can't figure out how to remove the auger pulley. It has a nut on and it's called a "pulley screw on" so I figured I could unscrew it from the shaft but it won't budge. I didn't force it (yet) because I wasn't sure if I was missing something. The only YouTube video I can find only shows how to replace a belt. Very helpful, in general, but not with my specific issue. I also tried to remove the augers and remove the impeller that way by sliding it off the front after removing the shear pins, but there's some sort of pin on the shaft so I can't remove it.
> It's very frustrating because I'm almost to where I need to be, but not quite. And I feel like I'm missing something very simple. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


the nut is actually welded to the pulley, and they use a red loctite on it. so when you try to remove the pulley it is almost impossible to remove by hand,i took mine to a john dealer had them remove with an impact gun! Then i i heated the loctite inside of the nut, when still warm i used a steel bore brush and got all the loctite residue out of the nut before i put it back on. Do this so you do not ruin the threads when putting it back on!


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## kenmand

these older models sound difficult. I just took a look at a new husqvarna and it has the pulley held on with a bolt, 10000 times easier to take off and service everything.


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## strtch5881

I have also repaired a few Husqvarna and Poulan late models. I think they have found the limit to how light they can build them. They get twisted up pretty easy. Also, the key for the pulley is press formed in a collar that is then welded to the pulley. The key shears off pretty easy. The last time I checked, the pulley is nla. A buddy took the sheared pulley home and broached in a new keyway, so normal key stock could be used.


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## unholy79

Joined the bent impeller party on my 227P, a rock got in there good, nothing sheared, but it bent one of the tines enough that it became a rapid fire bolt remover. Parts are on order from a place down in Miami (where it never snows, go figure). I'd already ordered a few parts but didn't realize how bad the impeller was bent until I dug into it today so I had to go back for more. At least the replacement parts are inexpensive.


Main problem I have is that I clear part of my (dirt) road with it and never adjusted the feet, so occasionally it'll pull in a rock and the rest is history. Once I get it back together I'll be adjusting those things and hopefully will avoid a repeat!


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## steatopygia

sameproblem said:


> the nut is actually welded to the pulley, and they use a red loctite on it. so when you try to remove the pulley it is almost impossible to remove by hand,i took mine to a john dealer had them remove with an impact gun! Then i i heated the loctite inside of the nut, when still warm i used a steel bore brush and got all the loctite residue out of the nut before i put it back on. Do this so you do not ruin the threads when putting it back on!


I also have a bent impeller. I have been working on getting the pulley off for hours now. The pipe wrench on the shaft keeps that from spinning but I'm afraid to use any more force than I have been. I have tried heating the pulley nut with a torch but it looks like soft alu and I haven't gone red hot. Am I just being too gentle? I'm getting pissed. (angry not drunk)


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## unholy79

Just swapped the impeller out today, hardest part was getting that pulley off. In my case, I jammed a small 1x4 into the impeller through the chute opening, wedging it nicely, and then used a 1/2" drive 15/16's socket on a breaker bar to fight it off. It took a LOT more force than I expected, but then after removing I saw all the red threadlocker they used. Eventually it turned easier and came off.


As for getting the shaft out of the machine, I removed the bearing retainers on either side of the auger housing, unbolted the auger from the bearing so that the augers were floating in the housing. I placed it open-side down, put that 1x4 on the rear of the shaft and gave it a good whack with a hand sledge. Popped right out.


Someone else here posted about a small ridge that keeps the impeller from being able to slide right off, they were right. I used a small file to even it out and slip it off.


I also put the entire machine in my living room because my garage isn't heated. Helped greatly.


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## WVguy

unholy79 said:


> I also put the entire machine in my living room because my garage isn't heated. Helped greatly.


Lemme take a wild guess here. There are no females living there, right?:grin:


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## unholy79

Nope, last one had an issue with me rebuilding a 550cc motorcycle engine in the kitchen. :grin:


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## RedOctobyr

Sigh. And out of that picture, what caught my eye was the Nintendo zapper light gun, presumably nicely paired up with a CRT TV, so it can actually work  Cool! 

I wish modern consoles could still work with a light gun, that's a game genre that's sort of disappeared. Maybe the VR systems will make that kinda happen somehow.


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## unholy79

RedOctobyr said:


> Sigh. And out of that picture, what caught my eye was the Nintendo zapper light gun, presumably nicely paired up with a CRT TV, so it can actually work  Cool!
> 
> I wish modern consoles could still work with a light gun, that's a game genre that's sort of disappeared. Maybe the VR systems will make that kinda happen somehow.



Yup, and I always keep a spare CRT on hand in case that one dies. SNES to the left and my Genesis is behind it. Even if I could play Duck Hunt in VR, it wouldn't be the same.


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## WVguy

unholy79 said:


> Nope, last one had an issue with me rebuilding a 550cc motorcycle engine in the kitchen. :grin:


Yeah, females are like that. For a while there I did have a Yamaha XS650 stored over the winter in my living room. But I was single then, now my wife complains about R/C model airplanes in the dining room.


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## Duker

How about why is the impeller bending? My ST224 second time bending the impeller, when it happens the engine is stalled out. Where is the protection from the shear pins. If there is enough force to stall the engine and bend the impeller fins I think the pins should shear. Cost me $300 last year at the shop. Called Husqvarna maybe a warranty issue.


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## SnowMN

Same problem.This is good. But for my ST230P, I just stuck a wonder bar between the impeller blade and the chute housing. The nut and the pulley wheel are fused. They don't separate like the parts diagram implies. However, I'm unable to get the impeller off of the shaft - The gear box, even after disassembling it, prevents on the one end. And, a flared edge/lip on the end where it goes into the bearing prevents sliding off of that end. Seems like the gearing needs to slide off the shaft (as that end appears tapered)? Has anyone been into this situation? Seems like a terrible design.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNUer4SaGDdJMctO5gg12e_hrPe0z0aoZiAWm9g
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNU5EvRWwxSU6Ifnw2KtsdjFfXJsf3I
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMLMgN1TLatDasGP7ZLRG9M7-AmSFZp4QLJu-7qMKbY2gRY


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## Kiss4aFrog

steatopygia said:


> I also have a bent impeller.





SnowMN said:


> Same problem.This is good.





unholy79 said:


> Joined the bent impeller party on my 227P, a rock got in there good.


:welcome: to SBF steatopygia, SnowMN & unholy79


Way .... off topic but I just have to 



unholy79 said:


> Nope, last one had an issue with me rebuilding a 550cc motorcycle engine in the kitchen. :grin:


I guess I'm lucky. I got away with rebuilding my '42 Harley in the living room back in the late 70's. That lady put up with a lot God bless her heart.

.


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## jtc57

Tell us how your getting it off so easily. My fins are not bent the impeller is bent.


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## 3vanman

OK members of the "bent impeller club"..you are not alone, the newer Husqvarna and Craftsman (same part) impellers a not designed like the old ones, second, the newest version is a lot more expensive and third, yes, the pulley can be an issue to remove. 
I fought with one for 3 hours, went for a beer to think about it and the next morning, plenty of heat on the screw nut, PB Blaster soaking in for an hour or so, reheat the nut, apply elbow grease or such on the breaker bar and yes, this does spin off, yes it is RH Thread..but rumor has it they used loctite at the factory, thus it was on tight..
btw, 7 craftsman or husqvarna impellors so far this year, one gear box and a couple more to diagnosis.
Gotta admit it creates work for repair people, and parts sales...but sure removes the fun of snow blowing..


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## Zippy

I just encountered the same issue with bent fins, have yet to try the remedy. It's a 3yr old machine with limited days on it. The bigger question in my mind is why are the shear bolts not shearing?


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## dr bob

In a past life designing packaging machines, shear pins were routinely "upgraded" to regular bolts because they "failed all the time". Fig Newton's Third Law of Mechanical Reciprocity suggests that the expensive component will fail, protecting the shear pin. He was a smart cookie... It may be that we need to help relieve an off-the-shelf shear bolt some if we really want the right level of protection from that cookie monster. Could be as easy as using a hacksaw to remove some metal at the shear points on the bolts. How much? I'd be willing to take away half as a first best-guess guess.

I haven't bent an impeller yet, but I have cooked the auger drive belt when the impeller was frozen in the barrel. Took only seconds. Might be worth some shear-bolt surgery to reduce the fun that caused.


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## Jac

RIT333 said:


> I'm not sure why people are having such a hard time removing parts from a practically brand new machine. I can get them off my 10 year old machines with a bit of effort. Next - why are people removing the impeller just to straighten out the fins. Can you do it while it is still on the shaft - granted, it needs to be removed from the bucket first.


Because there is no shaft bolt. This pulley is threaded on directly. I have been using a impact driver and still no success.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF Jac











3vanman said:


> OK members of the "bent impeller club"..you are not alone, the newer Husqvarna and Craftsman (same part) impellers a not designed like the old ones, second, the newest version is a lot more expensive and third, yes, the pulley can be an issue to remove.
> I fought with one for 3 hours, went for a beer to think about it and the next morning, plenty of heat on the screw nut, PB Blaster soaking in for an hour or so, reheat the nut, apply elbow grease or such on the breaker bar and yes, this does spin off, yes it is RH Thread..but rumor has it they used loctite at the factory, thus it was on tight..
> btw, 7 craftsman or husqvarna impellors so far this year, one gear box and a couple more to diagnosis.
> Gotta admit it creates work for repair people, and parts sales...but sure removes the fun of snow blowing..


Have you been using heat ? Propane is OK, swapping out for a MAPP gas cylinder is much better and access to Oxy/Ace would be best. Good penetrating fluid like PB Blaster is very useful.

.


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## 3vanman

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Welcome to SBF Jac
> View attachment 170598
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you been using heat ? Propane is OK, swapping out for a MAPP gas cylinder is much better and access to Oxy/Ace would be best. Good penetrating fluid like PB Blaster is very useful.
> 
> 
> .
> View attachment 170599
> View attachment 170600


So true, MAP is a great "Heat" source, far better than propane, and much cheaper than oxi/ace. 
BB Blaster is also a good product as well, however I will confess to using much more since I have discovered it. A Seafoam product, and has been great for some of those "hard to remove, rusted on parts". 




__





deep creep spray - Google Search






www.google.com


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## TryingMyself

goddahooch said:


> Amazing that there is a forum out there that features the exact obscure problem that i have in detail. removing the impeller! And since the posts were helpful in leading to my solution. I decided to give back and post my solution as to how to get the shaft to sit still, while your trying to get the pulley unscrewed!
> After you have separated the front half of the blower from the back half (the motor part of it)and exposed the flywheel... lay the flywheel part flat and put the PB Blaster to it and let it soak in overnight. you have also already removed the shoot from the housing. now you can insert a large pipe wrench down thru the shoot and get the teeth around the shaft right about where that little pin is thru the shaft. the shaft will want to rotate counterclockwise so set the wrench so the teeth will grab when the shaft tries to spin. now heat up the nut on the flywheel with a torch for extra help. get a good sturdy crescent on the flywheel nut and turn it counterclockwise. check that the pipe wrench is locking on the shaft and the shoot will hold that pipe wrench in place for you so you can really pull on the crescent. a few tugs and mine broke free with out busting my knuckles on anything! Amazing. new impeller on order and ill have it back together soon. I tried to hammer my bent impeller flat, and ended up hurting myself so i just ordered a new part.
> I took pictures to try to help show how I set the pipe wrench but i cant figure out how to upload pictures here. feel free to email me and ill sent pics to you. [email protected]
> 
> Many Thanks to all who have posted!


I have done everything that you mentioned and the pictures were very helpful. However, you mention turning the flywheel nut and to turn it counterclockwise. Mine has the words printed on the flywheel, “RH THREADS FRONT”. Doesn’t that mean I need to turn the bolt clockwise?


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF TryingMyself










Post #12 has pictures and says he turned it counterclockwise to remove.


.


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## cgarchris

NHsnow said:


> I have asked a couple questions in other threads, but at the suggestion of another user, I'm starting a new one with my specific question. The impeller in my Husqvarna ST227P (bought new last year) bent and now it rubs on a bolt and makes a terrible noise when engaged. I can see where it bent, but I just can't get to it. My thought is if I can remove the shaft and then the impeller I should be able to bend it back, or replace it. The thing is I can't figure out how to remove it. I found the parts diagram but I can't figure out how to remove the auger pulley. It has a nut on and it's called a "pulley screw on" so I figured I could unscrew it from the shaft but it won't budge. I didn't force it (yet) because I wasn't sure if I was missing something. The only YouTube video I can find only shows how to replace a belt. Very helpful, in general, but not with my specific issue. I also tried to remove the augers and remove the impeller that way by sliding it off the front after removing the shear pins, but there's some sort of pin on the shaft so I can't remove it.
> It's very frustrating because I'm almost to where I need to be, but not quite. And I feel like I'm missing something very simple. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


I know it’s been 3 years but I have the same exact bent impeller problem that you described in this forum. Did you ever figure out how to straighten or replace the impeller?


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF cgarchris









Normally to straighten it you have to remove it and pound it back into shape or use some big wrenches to get the leverage to bend them back into shape.
Can you post some photos of the damage?


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## Seeknay539

GeekOnTheHill said:


> It happens all the time up here. Sometimes a piece of gravel gets wedged in there, and sometimes a rock just pops up out of the ground when it freezes, and you don't see it because it's buried under the snow.
> 
> Usually it can be bent back into shape with a hammer and/or a Vise-Grip. But the repeated quick-fixes do tend to cause balance problems over times; so every third season, on average, I replace it and keep the old one as a spare that can be used in a pinch. That's actually what I'm doing now, along with replacing the belts, the chute base, the spark plug, and doing other routine maintenance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm taking a break because the new impeller and belts haven't arrived. They should be in today, says USPS tracking. We shall see.
> 
> Getting the pulley off is no big deal. Spray the penetrating oil of your choice on the threads, go have a cup of coffee, and then jam something down the chute to block the impeller from moving while you unscrew the pulley.
> 
> The other problem people run into is that the shaft forms a little ridge that prevents the impeller from coming off. I just grind the ridge off with a stone in an electric drill or a Dremel. I suppose a file or emery cloth would work, too.
> 
> The only serious problem I ever had with my ST-224 was when I stripped the spark plug hole replacing the plug. I'd left it in there too long and it seized. It was an easy fix with a Helicoil once I managed to find one out here in the Middle of Nowhere. But it did involve some cussing.
> 
> Richard


How did you remove the auger shaft without taking off the auger housing?


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## 140278

welcome to the SBF
you have to take the housing off, sorry there is no way around it. as you can not get the pulley off with out doing so


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF Seeknay









Yup, you have to split the machine, take off the pulley behind the impeller then the bearings for each end of the augers to pull the assembly out. 

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## Billy Baroo

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Welcome to SBF Seeknay
> View attachment 175219
> 
> 
> Yup, you have to split the machine, take off the pulley behind the impeller then the bearings for each end of the augers to pull the assembly out.
> 
> .


Can you tell me how to take the bearings out to release the auger? I have gotten everything else done, which is amazing because I am not handy. But now I am stuck with that last issue before I can get to the impeller

Thank you


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF Billy









If you're talking about the bearings on the side of the augers it should be just the two bolts.






Husqvarna ST 227P - 96193009702 (2015-05) Parts Diagram for AUGER HOUSING IMPELLER


Husqvarna ST 227P - 96193009702 (2015-05) AUGER HOUSING IMPELLER Exploded View parts lookup by model. Complete exploded views of all the major manufacturers. It is EASY and FREE



www.jackssmallengines.com





If that's not it you might try starting a thread of your own and give the model number (eleven digits) and maybe a photo or two of the problem you're having.
This thread is about removing the pulley.


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## mikenola

All, I have a similar problem with a Husky ST224.

Used the machine a couple of days ago, and suddenly it stopped throwing snow. Turns out the auger belt came off (don't know how, didn't hit anything that I could tell). Re-set belt by following instructions on a YouTube video, put it all back together except for the belt housing and checked. Belt remained on for 20-30 seconds (and auger and impeller worked during that time) before it came off again.

I noticed that the auger pulley appeared to be wobbling as though it was warped. Is this likely to be the case, and if so, will replacing the pulley fix the issue, or is there more likely to be more to the problem (e.g., a bearing).

Have the replacement part in hand as well as a new belt.

Any advise would be appreciated.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

The key question is whether the pulley is warped or the impeller shaft. Is the pulley attached to the end of the impeller shaft by a bolt/washer or does the pulley screw onto the end of the shaft?


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## mikenola

Haven't taken it completely apart, but the impeller is threaded, so I assume it threads right onto the shaft.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF mikenola









Post #49 shows that it's screwed onto the shaft.


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## mikenola

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Welcome to SBF mikenola
> View attachment 176045
> 
> 
> Post #49 shows that it's screwed onto the shaft.
> 
> 
> .


Thanks - wondering if anyone else has had my particular issue and whether it's like to be the pulley...


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Welcome to SBF mikenola
> View attachment 176045
> 
> 
> Post #49 shows that it's screwed onto the shaft.
> 
> 
> .


That sucks. I wasn't sure because it looked like the end of the impeller shaft has a threaded hole. 
A block of wood slid into the chute hole to prevent the impeller from spinning should be sufficient to prevent the pulley from rotating. Unscrewing the pulley is another thing. You may need a tool that has a long handle with two protrusions that will slide into the two holes in the pulley, to be able to unscrew it.

Something like this...


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## CantonDan

mikenola said:


> All, I have a similar problem with a Husky ST224.
> 
> Used the machine a couple of days ago, and suddenly it stopped throwing snow. Turns out the auger belt came off (don't know how, didn't hit anything that I could tell). Re-set belt by following instructions on a YouTube video, put it all back together except for the belt housing and checked. Belt remained on for 20-30 seconds (and auger and impeller worked during that time) before it came off again.
> 
> I noticed that the auger pulley appeared to be wobbling as though it was warped. Is this likely to be the case, and if so, will replacing the pulley fix the issue, or is there more likely to be more to the problem (e.g., a bearing).
> 
> Have the replacement part in hand as well as a new belt.
> 
> Any advise would be appreciated.


Last year I had a similar issue on my Ariens 11528 however it turned out to be the bearing that goes around the auger shaft. I think the bearing is more likely to go than the shaft or pulley bending. It was easier than I thought it was going to be to replace. Good luck. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Cjh1222

TryingMyself said:


> I have done everything that you mentioned and the pictures were very helpful. However, you mention turning the flywheel nut and to turn it counterclockwise. Mine has the words printed on the flywheel, “RH THREADS FRONT”. Doesn’t that mean I need to turn the bolt clockwise?
> View attachment 171874


Did you figure this out? Is it clockwise to loosen?


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## 140278

welcome to the SBF cjh1222


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## heking

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Welcome to SBF Billy
> View attachment 175708
> 
> 
> If you're talking about the bearings on the side of the augers it should be just the two bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Husqvarna ST 227P - 96193009702 (2015-05) Parts Diagram for AUGER HOUSING IMPELLER
> 
> 
> Husqvarna ST 227P - 96193009702 (2015-05) AUGER HOUSING IMPELLER Exploded View parts lookup by model. Complete exploded views of all the major manufacturers. It is EASY and FREE
> 
> 
> 
> www.jackssmallengines.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that's not it you might try starting a thread of your own and give the model number (eleven digits) and maybe a photo or two of the problem you're having.
> This thread is about removing the pulley.
> 
> 
> .


No, there are two screws holding the bearings that come off the sides, AND THEN YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE FIRST SHEARBOLT ON THE SHAFT INSIDE, then the bearings will pull out along with the shaft that goes inside of the blower shaft.


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## heking

CantonDan said:


> Last year I had a similar issue on my Ariens 11528 however it turned out to be the bearing that goes around the auger shaft. I think the bearing is more likely to go than the shaft or pulley bending. It was easier than I thought it was going to be to replace. Good luck.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Had same symptoms, it's the bearing, once it eats itself up the shaft gets loose enough for the belt to come off. Good luck fun is just beginning. Whole front end may need to be replaced if the bearing has done enough damage .


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## dr bob

After reading all the contributions so far, I was able to get the whole thing apart. I was interested in replacing that center bearing as a PM task, before it failed and damaged the shaft. It seems some of the challenges for impellor shaft removal are the result of shaft damage when the bearing fails. Advice: change the bearing before it fails. The bearing itself is a very common 6203-2RS bearing, and the one that came in the machine was of less than stellar original quality. That said, after several hundred hours of use the one I removed was still in serviceable condition. It's grumpy but still turns easily. I replaced it anyway once I'd gone through the trouble of taking things apart. I also needed to paint the inside of the auger barrel, after getting a little careless with sizing "impellor mod" flaps to the paddles and scraping all the original paint out.

As others have shared, the pulley attaches to the right-hand-threaded end of the shaft with a captive/included nut and a few drops of red thread locker. You may have some corrosion 'helping' the thread locker, Penetrating oil and related products (Kroil (my favorite...), PB Blaster (commonly available locally), or a DIY mix of half ATF and half acetone) will help some with the corrosion but will do nothing for the thread locker. For that you'll need some heat. Coincidentally, the same propane-torch heat on the nut will help break the corrosion, but perversely the heat works best without the penetrating oil products. Grab your propane torch and heat up the nut to at least a couple hundred degrees (spit-hot). Then loosen the nut with a proper tool. I initially tried my Makita battery impact, but the available 125 lbs/ft. wasn't enough to budge it. My vintage 1/2" air impact didn't have any problem getting it to spin loose though. Impact or not, use a 6-point socket on the nut to avoid damaging the hex nut.

Prior to attacking the pulley, I removed the chute as part of splitting the machine, and used a pair of common vise-grips locking pliers around one the impellor blades to keep the impellor from turning. I also completely disconnected the sections of the machine, which included disconnecting the drive cable from the idler for the belt. I had the whole front bucket face-down for easy access.

For reassembly, clean the threads on the shaft and in the nut with a wire brush. Add two drops of red thread locker on the shaft threads closest to the bearing. Add a small amount of anti-seize to the first few OUTER threads in the nut, the ones towards the hex. Then assemble. The thread locker will keep the nut and pulley from vibrating loose accidentally, while the anti-seize at the other end of the nut will keep contaminants out and avoid future corrosion issues. Use a little good grease if you don't have anti-seize. Tighten the nut securely on assembly. There's no torque specified in the manuals, but 33 lbs/ft. is a standard torque for this size threads in car applications so might be a good guide.

Some other hints:
The roll pin in the impellor shaft forward of the impellor is there to keep the impellor out of the augers when the impellor shear bolts shear. It serves no other purpose, and there's no reason to remove it.

The shear bolts used on the auger are stronger than the auger and the belt, and seem to serve no purpose as far as protecting the drive parts or the impellor. A rock wedged in the impellor bends it before the shear bolts give way. Ice formed in the impellor barrel burned the belt off before those shear bolts gave way. I can see a case for weakening the shear bolts prior to installation, possibly finding a weaker set or maybe installing just one to actually prevent drive and impellor damage.

HTH.

I have more description of the whole episode in the "ST227P Running Blog" thread in this same forum.


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