# My snowblower won't start without starting fluid.



## bender1227 (Mar 10, 2018)

My Ariens snowblower with a Tecumseh engine won't start unless I put starting fluid in it. Once I get it running it runs well, why is this and can I fix it so it starts without adding starting fluid to the carburetor? 

The model number for the engine is HS40-55265b.

Thanks


----------



## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Primer Hose is Probably Cracked or rotted. This hose runs from the Primer Bulb to the Carb.


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Jackmels said:


> Primer Hose is Probably Cracked or rotted. This hose runs from the Primer Bulb to the Carb.


What he said

if you prime you should hear it via the carburetor throat and see a little gas in the throat.


----------



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

+1 on the primer hose..


----------



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

either primer or something wrong with choke.


----------



## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I think that tec is an older "push to prime" design, no primer bulb/line or fitting for one. If the spring loaded plunger is missing as they often are, or it doesn't seal well they can be a bugger to start. Are you following the start procedure of closing the plunger and drawing on the recoil rope with the key switch off? It draws a little fuel into the throat and getting the engine at TDC gives you a better chance to light off with the pull. If the heater box makes it too hard to do that, use something like PB blaster with the straw instead of ether, it is very flammable, but still has some oil in it.


----------



## Ro3bert (Mar 11, 2018)

I have a similar problem with my Husky lawn tractor but I know what the problem is but not how to rectify it.

When the fuel ran a little low I couldn't determine whether the gas can(s) had gas or kero and as expected I started fueling with the kero before I decided I'd put the wrong fuel in the tank. I stopped filling it hoping there was still enough gasoline in the tank so that mixing would reduce or eliminate the probable running problems.

The engine would start but not run for long. There was a huge amount of white smoke issuing from the muffler. That was when I knew for sure what I'd done but what to do to over come the effects.

Finally I removed the fuel line from the carburetor and used my compressor to pressurize the fuel tank. After purging the system I refilled with gasoline. It was still difficult to start but it did run. The problem now is that when it is cold out (not necessarily freezing) I have to use starting fluid to get it to run for any length of time. Once it is warmed up it runs great. Bet I never refill with kero again.

Robert


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

jtclays said:


> I think that tec is an older "push to prime" design, no primer bulb/line or fitting for one. If the spring loaded plunger is missing as they often are, or it doesn't seal well they can be a bugger to start. Are you following the start procedure of closing the plunger and drawing on the recoil rope with the key switch off? It draws a little fuel into the throat and getting the engine at TDC gives you a better chance to light off with the pull. If the heater box makes it too hard to do that, use something like PB blaster with the straw instead of ether, it is very flammable, but still has some oil in it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Here is that question you'll either say "of course" very sarcastically or " really?? ". Your engine should have that black knob and a sliding choke lever. When You try to start it when it is below 10 deg out do you slide the choke to full on and push that black knob in and hold it and pull the recoil starter over slowly once past the compression to suck in some fuel ?? I know the first one I bought with that knob I had no idea and just used the choke lever, hard starting cold. And like all instructions on starting an engine cold or hot having an older worn engine you might need to give it a little more but remember it's always easier to try a second time and prime a little more than to unflood an engine.

Starting instructions courtesy of Scot's Ariens site : http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/TIP-69.pdf
Scot's Ariens site : https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page5.html


----------



## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

I would suggest that you regap your spark plug to 25 thousandths and try it first before you do any amount of tear down.

We had a toro 48 inch walk behind recycler mower with a 14 horse kohler? with a vertical crankshaft engine that was extremely difficult to start and the only way I could get it to start was to use starting fluid or my space heater to warm it up before I checked the spark plug gap and reset it to 25 thousandths and it started up every time after that with no issues.

Check the spark plug gap and reset ot to 25 thousandths before you do anything else.


----------



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I've seen these primer knobs mentioned here but never owned a machine that had one. I don't understand how they work. It appears to just cover the intake of the carburetor when pressed, yet it has a choke also. Hopefully someone understands my confusion.










Photo on loan from Scot's website.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

dbert said:


> I've seen these primer knobs mentioned here but never owned a machine that had one. I don't understand how they work. It appears to just cover the intake of the carburetor when pressed, yet it has a choke also. Hopefully someone understands my confusion.


I'll try again. Starting instructions courtesy of Scot's Ariens site : http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/TIP-69.pdf

.


----------



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I'll try again. Starting instructions courtesy of Scot's Ariens site : http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/TIP-69.pdf
> 
> .


I'd read that, and I still don't understand HOW IT WORKS.
Does it not just cover the carb intake when pressed? It's not like the typical "primer" that physically places some fuel into the carb throat.


----------



## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

I have one of those primer thingies on my signature machine, and in 51 seasons I never had to use it, but I left it there just in case i would have to use it.
Sid


----------



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I've came up with my own theory. Say full choke is only actually only 90%. Blocking the entire inlet and pulling it through one intake stroke will create enough suction to pull fuel into the throat. Works in my mind so I will go with that.
edit:
Slightly off topic, but I've been working on a European tiller with an ACME engine. The choke shudder has a little poppet valve installed. Not sure why exactly, but I thought it was interesting.


----------



## DriverRider (Nov 20, 2016)

The hard starting could also be due to low compression. How much resistance do you feel when pulling the starter rope?


----------



## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

dbert said:


> I'd read that, and I still don't understand HOW IT WORKS.
> Does it not just cover the carb intake when pressed? It's not like the typical "primer" that physically places some fuel into the carb throat.


The primer bulb creates a pressure differential between the float bowl and carb throat by pressurizing the float bowl.

The metal primer flap (along with turning the engine over), creates a pressure differential between the float bowl and the carb throat by blocking the intake and allowing the engine to pull a small vacuum.

In both cases, the pressure differential causes fuel to flow into the carb throat, thus priming the engine.

Closing the choke is similar, but the chokes generally passmore air, requiring more vigorous turning over of the engine to achieve similar results. (Had a blowerback in the 70's with no primer, and had to do it that way . . .).


----------



## thool (Jul 25, 2016)

The bulb pushes air into the bowl and pushes fuel up the high speed jet. The plate uses cylinder vacuum to pull fuel up the high speed jet.


----------

