# Worth repairing old MTD/Mastercraft?



## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Hi everyone,

Last winter a family friend gave me an old Mastercraft (Canadian Tire store brand here in Canada) 8/26 snowblower that was made by MTD, probably in the late 70s early 80s. The model number on the tag is 319-825-515. I put a new aftermarket carb, a new plug and a new fuel filter on last winter and the engine ran really well after that. I used the machine a few times last winter and it seemed to be working pretty good.

We had an early snow here in Southern Ontario last week, and that prompted me to have a closer look at the machine. When I was checking the belts I noticed the rear auger bearing was shot. I thought that would be a cheap and easy fix, but once I had the auger out of the machine I figured it would be a good idea to check the gear box. It was a lot of work to get everything apart, but once I did I realized the worm gear was worn pretty bad, the thrust washer was missing completely, and the impeller shaft was worn badly at both ends. The grease inside the gearbox was a grey sludge that looked like nickel anti-seize, presumably from all the ground up metal mixed in with the grease

I found most of the parts I need online, and for about $300CAD I can rebuild the gearbox including a new impeller shaft, plus replace the rear auger bearing, and the friction wheel.

I've only got about $50 into the machine so far, but I'm a bit hesitant to spend another $300+ on a 30-year-old machine. However, there isn't much available around here on the used market for that price and the new machines I've looked seem poorly made compared to this old tank.

Any suggestions? Is it worth fixing up this old machine?

Here's a few pics. Thanks.


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## Ian Ariens 924 (Dec 22, 2015)

I’m in SW Ontario also.
You could fix it for the fun of it, but you can buy a better one for your investment.
Check kijiji for lots of $350 snowblowers, ready to go.

If you do fix it ,it could become a fun hobby.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I will say one thing, you have the knowledge ,and the where with all, to be at the point you are at now. The one thing you would be assured in, is if you did the repairs, you know where you are at and what you have, with many new parts. It sure beats the price of a new machine.

BTW, I bought a gear to replace in my Craftsman, albeit brass, pretty cheap from a place in Texas. Not sure if they would have your gear, or ship to Canada, but worth a look maybe:

Flip Manufacturing, Greenville, Texas

If that engine is good, and you can get the parts at the best price, might be a good machine indeed, a call which after your knowledge of it, would be your call.

I use the XTrac tires on my machines as well, with a couple with the SnowHogs.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if the gear is steel you could probably just run that machine into the ground. i would be a bit hesitant to put money into a older machine like that. it is also missing the skids so bucket and augers may be wore down a bit. i do like how much thicker the buckets are on the old machines and how much less they flex but definitely need to take care of them. what part of southern ontario are you from? i feel like i might have an auger assembly off a machine like that but you would likely need to pickup if it is the right one since i think the auger may be rusted to the shafts. i have no clue what shape the insides are in. here are some pics of the machine it came out of.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Ian Ariens 924 said:


> I’m in SW Ontario also.
> You could fix it for the fun of it, but you can buy a better one for your investment.
> Check kijiji for lots of $350 snowblowers, ready to go.
> 
> If you do fix it ,it could become a fun hobby.


I'm in Sarnia. Not much around here right now. Almost everything on kijiji under $350 are small electric blowers. An older 26" Craftsman popped up today and I've message seller for more info because I think it may have some of the same parts as mine. I was out this afternoon and stopped at Lowes and TSC to look at some new machines. Seeing what they're selling now for a $1000+ pretty much convinced me to fix this one up.



oneacer said:


> I will say one thing, you have the knowledge ,and the where with all, to be at the point you are at now. The one thing you would be assured in, is if you did the repairs, you know where you are at and what you have, with many new parts. It sure beats the price of a new machine.
> 
> BTW, I bought a gear to replace in my Craftsman, albeit brass, pretty cheap from a place in Texas. Not sure if they would have your gear, or ship to Canada, but worth a look maybe:
> 
> ...



Thanks oneacer. I like fixing up old machines, usually it's old woodworking tools, and I agree that when I do it myself I at least know where I'm at and what I have. I feel like if I bought another used machine for $300-$400 there's a pretty good chance it would need some of the same repairs. The best price I can find up here on the large worm gear is about $66 at this site: https://www.rpmpieces.com/en/differential-/163-worm-gear-mtd-717-1425.html 



crazzywolfie said:


> if the gear is steel you could probably just run that machine into the ground. i would be a bit hesitant to put money into a older machine like that. it is also missing the skids so bucket and augers may be wore down a bit. i do like how much thicker the buckets are on the old machines and how much less they flex but definitely need to take care of them. what part of southern ontario are you from? i feel like i might have an auger assembly off a machine like that but you would likely need to pickup if it is the right one since i think the auger may be rusted to the shafts. i have no clue what shape the insides are in. here are some pics of the machine it came out of.


The large worm gear is very light and non-magnetic, so I think it's aluminum. It's probably got some life left in it (see pic below), but it seems silly not to replace it if I've gone this far. I had the skid shoes off to weld them when I took the picture above. The shoes and the shave plate were worn, but the augers look good. Thanks for the offer of the auger. How far are you from Sarnia? That Snow Flite looks almost identical to my Mastercraft.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@street,

Found it for 51.00 at Amazon …. still looking for you:

https://www.amazon.com/Snowblower-Worm-Gear-Replaces-917-1425/dp/B001LUDW3K


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Thanks for looking, but $51US is about $68CAD and they don't deliver here. Best price on amazon.ca is $69.99CAD.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

hard to say how long it will last if it is aluminum. i just know they are usually brass and you could tell yours was not brass. i am over in Orangeville about 3 hours from you. seems like it might be a bit of a drive for a auger assembly unless you know someone that travels this way sometimes. the machine definitely looks almost identical to yours. i should have kept it and fixed it. for the little i played with it i liked it. i still have the axle assembly out of it that i was going to use to make a gas powered wheel barrow since it has the differential in it so it is easy to turn when you want but also goes straight real easily.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Yeah, Orangeville would be too far to drive for something like this, but thanks anyway.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@street,

I just did a Craftsman Auger Gearbox, and lucked out, as the gear was brass, and I found one for 20.00 with shipping and tax, 28.00. It appears that gear is made in brass as well, as you will see by looking around.


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

I'm in Western Canada, used machines run about $400 in my market, and who knows what your buying (could have the same wear).
Unfortunately, our (Canadian) cost for used parts is much higher than those in the USA, as we need to buy in our $, pay shipping and of course duty. 
Looking at the newer machines, I see equipment that will not last near as long as what the old machines did, the new ones are made so much "lighter". 
So far this year, I have replaced 6 Craftsman/Husquvarna impellors on newer machines, as they seem to bend very easily, some of the Briggs start and run with no throttle, so left outside, -20, plugged in and started, running at 3000 plus rpm and splash oil system...need I say more.
Parts may seem expensive, but that machine will most likely last another 20 years if you look after it, with far less repairs than a new one..invest the money, you have it apart..fix it right..and then enjoy having the oldest snow blower on the block..
Just my opinion.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

It's either steel, bronze which can look like steel if it's a dark bronze or brass which it's most likely not. No such animal in aluminum and never will be. If it were aluminum as you suggest it would last maybe an hour. The way the gearbox worm drive gear is set up is, one is steel and the other is a softer metal like brass and bronze which have a lubricity component so it would help with the inherent friction.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

3vanman said:


> Parts may seem expensive, but that machine will most likely last another 20 years if you look after it, with far less repairs than a new one..invest the money, you have it apart..fix it right..and then enjoy having the oldest snow blower on the block..
> Just my opinion.


I agree. I looked at a couple used machines this weekend for $300-$400 and you could tell they were already starting to have similar problems. This machine lasted 40 years with poor maintenance, so it will probably outlive me if it's well maintained from now on. 



all3939 said:


> It's either steel, bronze which can look like steel if it's a dark bronze or brass which it's most likely not. No such animal in aluminum and never will be. If it were aluminum as you suggest it would last maybe an hour. The way the gearbox worm drive gear is set up is, one is steel and the other is a softer metal like brass and bronze which have a lubricity component so it would help with the inherent friction.


I know aluminum make no sense, but it seems way too light for steel and it's non-magnetic. I've also never seen brass or bronze this colour, so you got me. Here's a couple more pics.


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

I wonder if it could be zinc as that's not usually magnetic. Doubt it would be stainless steel though.


A test for aluminum is take it to grinder and see if it sparks.


A reviewer on that Amazon link that was posted earlier stated this




rick9584

[ame="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RD03Z7LWTEJU0/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B001LUDW3K"]_5.0 out of 5 stars_[/ame] Nice heavy duty brass gear 
April 19, 2017Verified Purchase
Nice heavy duty brass gear, much better than the aluminum gear that was in the gearbox from the factory




So who knows if it was aluminum or something else soft.. Though the picture on amazon shows a non-brass looking gear.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

It still looks like bronze though dark in color which I see alot color wise. It's not aluminum because if you look at the broken edges you can see it's a sintered metal which bronze is. I've never seen /heard of sintered aluminum and don't think it exists. There are a few sintered steels like cast iron commonly used in gears or I think something called nickel steel also a sintered metal but aluminum in a worm configuration, nada.


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## Nick Karahalios (Nov 21, 2019)

If you like how the machine performs and the motor runs strong, pull the trigger on the repair. Sadly you wont ever see that money back but thats just how it goes. Couple years ago i dumped about 2000$ into a full resto on a 1970's John Deere 300 lawn tractor. I'd do it again today if i had too.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

My opinion: fix it up. You will likely end up with a much better and more reliable machine than 80% of new snowblowers, and for less money.

For $500, you can buy a brand-new snowblower that is junk.. it will likely be much worse than your old machine, even when factoring in brand-new vs. 30 years old.

To get a good quality brand-new machine that will likely be in the same league as your old machine, when it comes to initial build quality, you are looking at $800 minimum to start..

1. You cant buy a *brand new* 2-stage snowblower for $350 that will be the equal to your old one once its fixed up..they don't exist.
2. You can buy a new $500 machine that will likely be terrible..worse than the old one.
3. Or you can go new for $800 plus..
4. Or spend $350 to fix up the machine you have.
5. Or go used on a different machine in the $350 neighborhood..

IMO, the math is clear..
You cant do option 1.
Dont do option 2.
Option 3 is fine.
Option 4 is fine..
Option 5 is fine.

If the machine seems robust, I see no reason to not fix it up..
It's easy to do worse for the same money.. 
Its easy to do "the same" for the same money..(buying another used machine)
You can't really do better for the same money.

Scot


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Thanks for all the feedback. I ordered my parts this morning and got most of them from rpmpieces.com in Quebec. I had never heard of them before, but they had some of the best prices in Canada that I could find. They also processed the order quickly and shipped it this afternoon. The only thing they didn't have was the impeller shaft. I ordered that from mtdparts.ca, but they haven't shipped yet. I'll post some updates once everything arrives and I start putting it back together.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

I received the parts today and the new worm gear is definitely brass or bronze. It's more than twice the weight of the old one, which still looks like aluminum to me. Maybe I'll hit it with the grinder once the new one is installed and working. Here's a couple pics.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

There's a few good YouTube videos on the rebuilding a snowblower gearbox. Donnyboy is one and can't remember the other one which has 3 parts and very thorough . Check them out well before you screw something up.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

all3939 said:


> There's a few good YouTube videos on the rebuilding a snowblower gearbox. Donnyboy is one and can't remember the other one which has 3 parts and very thorough . Check them out well before you screw something up.


I've watched them all several times, but I'll probably screw something up anyway :wink2:

I put the new friction wheel on tonight and replaced a small bearing in the drive mechanism. Then I noticed there was a lot of play in the sprocket that attaches to the drive axle. When I used the blower a couple weeks ago the wheels stopped turning and I discovered the bolt that holds the sprocket to the axle was sheared off. I replaced the bolt and everything seemed fine, but when I checked the bolt for tightness tonight it broke with a very light turn of the wrench. It looks like the hole in the axle is elongated and every time the drive is engaged the sprocket jerks forward and applies a lot of shear force to the bolt. Now I have to figure out how to fix this. :sad2: 

Would it be a bad idea to weld the sprocket to the axle? It's late and I'm only half serious, but it would be a quick fix.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

what about drilling the hole out 1 size larger to try make the hole a standard size again and then just used a bolt the same size.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

crazzywolfie said:


> what about drilling the hole out 1 size larger to try make the hole a standard size again and then just used a bolt the same size.


I was thinking about that, but the shaft is only 3/4" and the original hole was 5/16". I'd be worried that going up to a 3/8" hole would weaken the shaft and it might break. I tried an 8mm bolt too, but it's still a bit loose.

I got the shaft out of the machine today and my first attempt is to fill the hole with JB Weld and redrill it to 5/16". I'm not sure if the JB will hold up.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

I'm not sure what this shaft looks like or what it does. A picture is worth a million words. I have various ideas but need to see what and how this is used.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Put in grade 8 bolt …. 

But begore putting the nut on, see if you can wedge something, i.e. paperclip, etc, to snug any elongated hole.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Thanks for the suggestions. Sorry I didn't see the most recent posts a bit sooner. So I filled the old hole in the shaft with JB Weld and while I was watching it dry I was thinking "this isn't going to last very long". Then I had a brain wave, which can be a dangerous thing sometimes. 

Here's a pic of the drive shaft. You can see there's a gear on the right side. The hole in the gear collar and the shaft are both worn and oblong. On the other side is a 1" sleeve tack welded in place. Otherwise, the axle is symmetrical. The sleeve and the outside of the gear collar fit into the axle bushings on the body of the snowblower. So I thought, why don't I just grind the welds off the sleeve and move it to the right. Then I can move the gear to the other side and drill a new hole through the gear collar and the shaft. If it's not already obvious, I tend to over think things. :wink2:










Well, it was a bit of work to get the sleeve off the left side, and a bit more work to set the shaft and gear up in the drill press, but I think it has all worked out (fingers crossed). Here's a few more pics of the process and everything back in place. I used a grade 5 bolt because I had one on hand. I also read another thread where someone else was having similar problems with this bolt breaking and someone said a grade 8 bolt might be more brittle and prone to shearing. Another thing I read was not to over-tighten this bolt, which might add more stress to it and make it more likely to shear. I have no idea if either of these things is true, but I just snugged up the lock nut on the grade five. Oh, I also used a bolt that had a long shoulder that extended entirely through the gear collar and shaft. 

Now hopefully I can get back to the auger.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I always like seeing good old Yankee Ingenuity ….


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

oneacer said:


> I always like seeing good old Yankee Ingenuity ….


Or Canuck Ingenuity... since I'm Canadian, eh. :wink2:


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Did a dry run on the gear box assembly tonight, but I'll probably watch those youtube videos again before I go for it.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

I put the machine back together and did a quick test drive today. It seemed to be working all right! There's no snow here for a proper test, but I'm relieved that everything sounds and looks good.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Looks like you have everything in good shape … 

Working on these machines gives you a real understanding of how they operate …


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

oneacer said:


> Looks like you have everything in good shape … /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Working on these machines gives you a real understanding of how they operate …


That's for sure. A few weeks ago I really didn't know much about the machine, but now I feel like I know it inside and out. This gives me a much better understanding of snowblowers in general, so if I do decide to upgrade I'll be a much more knowledgeable shopper as well.

Thanks again for all the feedback. Cheers.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

looks good. really not much to re-assembling things. usually taking them apart is the hardest part. hopefully that machine lasts another 20+ years


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

***... Used my snowblower tonight for about the third time since I rebuilt it and the brand new friction wheel fell apart! Did I get a lemon or is there something I'm doing wrong that would cause this to happen? I'm trying to be gentle when I engage the drive lever.

Thankfully I kept the old wheel and was able to get it back on tonight.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

streetcore said:


> ***... Used my snowblower tonight for about the third time since I rebuilt it and the brand new friction wheel fell apart! Did I get a lemon or is there something I'm doing wrong that would cause this to happen? I'm trying to be gentle when I engage the drive lever.
> 
> Thankfully I kept the old wheel and was able to get it back on tonight.


You just had some terrible luck right there.
Perhaps not a genuine part?
Don't blame yourself for how fast you squeezed down on the handle.. although faster is better ...less slippage.
Also when installing be sure the two pieces that clamp to the ring are not damaged..if it is part of the ring may not be actually clamped while the rest is..it can pull on the rubber in the unclamped area while the area clamped is holding it essentially pulling it in two...clamp tight and even and make there are no dents etc in the clamping area




Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


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## toromike (Aug 20, 2018)

How are you shifting gears, are you shifting without stopping the machine? That's a frequent cause of early failure of the friction wheel. The proper way is to bring the machine to a stop before shifting.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Thanks for the quick replies. I always disengage the drive lever and bring the machine to a full stop before changing gears. 

Not sure I understand the description of the two pieces and the clamping of the friction wheel. The wheel is one piece and there are three bolts that hold it in place on the drive mechanism. I've attached a couple pics.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

streetcore said:


> Thanks for the quick replies. I always disengage the drive lever and bring the machine to a full stop before changing gears.
> 
> Not sure I understand the description of the two pieces and the clamping of the friction wheel. The wheel is one piece and there are three bolts that hold it in place on the drive mechanism. I've attached a couple pics.


Disregard then as it is not the clamped style.
You merely got ahold of a defective part.
It appears to be held in place by adhesive from what I am seeing...when part of the adhesive failed it let it pull on the rubber ring and pulled it in two.



Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

i'm seeing burnt rubber on that surface ,


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

You got a bad disc … A proper friction disc has the rubber bonded to the metal with a procedure that literally makes it one component.

There are some manufacturers that use an inferior method, such as your case, where it comes apart in such a manner.

A properly adjusted friction disc should rest with a very slight gap between the friction disc and the drive plate. The engagement position should be a firm, secure connection.

I am sure you are aware of all this …


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Time for my annual update to this thread and I'm really starting to regret fixing this thing. Used it today for the first time this winter and the axle broke. The break occurred at the hole left by my previous repair (see earlier posts) when I flipped the axle. So I really wasn't too surprised. I probably should have welded that hole shut in the first place.

I'm being fairly careful when engaging the drive and trying not to slam down on the drive lever, so I don't know why the drive components keep breaking. 😟


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Running turf tires with chains certainly contributed to the break, with all the bouncing and banging.

I would bring it to a good welder and have it done proper .... never break again. Of course, XTrac tires would also be a nice upgrade.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ouch. that sucks. do you know what size the shaft is? might just be better off replacing it at this point. too bad you didn't live closer. if it had a 3/4" shaft i likely have a few sitting around. i am just not sure if anything i have would be as long as you need for that machine.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

oneacer said:


> Running turf tires with chains certainly contributed to the break, with all the bouncing and banging.
> 
> I would bring it to a good welder and have it done proper .... never break again. Of course, XTrac tires would also be a nice upgrade.


Didn't consider the chains would contribute to the problems, but it does make sense. If I can get the axle fixed or replaced I'll take them off and consider upgrading the tires. 



crazzywolfie said:


> ouch. that sucks. do you know what size the shaft is? might just be better off replacing it at this point. too bad you didn't live closer. if it had a 3/4" shaft i likely have a few sitting around. i am just not sure if anything i have would be as long as you need for that machine.


Thanks for the offer. I wish I was closer too  The shaft is 3/4". I'm not an expert welder, but I have a mig and oxy-acetylene, so I think I can probably fix the broken one. I'm going to try and find a piece of pipe with 3/4" ID that can be welded in place over the broken section to act as splint.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

streetcore said:


> Time for my annual update to this thread and I'm really starting to regret fixing this thing. Used it today for the first time this winter and the axle broke. The break occurred at the hole left by my previous repair (see earlier posts) when I flipped the axle. So I really wasn't too surprised. I probably should have welded that hole shut in the first place.
> 
> I'm being fairly careful when engaging the drive and trying not to slam down on the drive lever, so I don't know why the drive components keep breaking. 😟
> 
> ...


Yeah, 50% of the metal was gone at the point where the hole is.
Hopefully you've been able to secure more reliable equipment in these intervening years?
Thanks for the update, kudos and good luck!!


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

bevel the area's around the break good before mig welding them back together so you get good penetration. then if you want to grind the welds down and sleeve over that it would definitely not hurt


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

crazzywolfie said:


> bevel the area's around the break good before mig welding them back together so you get good penetration. then if you want to grind the welds down and sleeve over that it would definitely not hurt


That would have to be some mighty fine welding. No replacement shaft available online or locally?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Rooskie said:


> That would have to be some mighty fine welding. No replacement shaft available online or locally? finding the actual shaft needed for that would likely cost more than the machine is worth.


well welding is cheap if you got a welder. he could buy a keyed shaft for $45 but he would have to drill it as needed.


https://www.princessauto.com/en/keyed-shafting/product/PA1000001329


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

crazzywolfie said:


> well welding is cheap if you got a welder. he could buy a keyed shaft for $45 but he would have to drill it as needed.
> 
> 
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/keyed-shafting/product/PA1000001329


Drilling the five holes may not be too bad, but cutting the grooves for the snap rings that hold the wheels on would be more challenging. I have a mini-lathe, but it can't handle stock that large.

New axles are discontinued at all the parts dealers I've looked at. So I'll try welding the old one. Not much to lose.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

you only need the snap rings if you run around with a wheel disengaged and even then as long as you put the pin in the outside hole it is not an issue. also you would likely only need 4 holes. you only need the disconnect on 1 side if you even use it.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

crazzywolfie said:


> you only need the snap rings if you run around with a wheel disengaged and even then as long as you put the pin in the outside hole it is not an issue. also you would likely only need 4 holes. you only need the disconnect on 1 side if you even use it.


Good point. I'll definitely keep all that in mind if I try and fab up a new one.

Thanks.


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Well, I dug through my scrap pile and found a piece of 3/4" round bar that I bought at the Restore for a dollar a couple years ago. It had a bend in it, so I had to heat it up and straighten it out. Fortunately, I've been learning some basic blacksmithing skills lately and it worked out all right. Once I got it straightened I drilled the holes and welded the collar from the old axke back on the left side. I also had to replace the bronze bushings in the wheel hubs. Luckily, they were available at Princess Auto.

I'll try running it without the chains if we get more snow. Hopefully, it won't slip too much. Here's a few pics. Thanks again for all the advice.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

looks good. hopefully that will last the rest of the machines life


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## streetcore (Jan 10, 2019)

Thanks. I'm running out of parts to replace on this thing, so I hope it lasts for awhile too.


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## robszwedo519 (Dec 1, 2021)

streetcore said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Last winter a family friend gave me an old Mastercraft (Canadian Tire store brand here in Canada) 8/26 snowblower that was made by MTD, probably in the late 70s early 80s. The model number on the tag is 319-825-515. I put a new aftermarket carb, a new plug and a new fuel filter on last winter and the engine ran really well after that. I used the machine a few times last winter and it seemed to be working pretty good.
> 
> ...


Don't know what to say but if you are scrapping it I would be interested in the auger support bearings I live in London area


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## thool (Jul 25, 2016)

FWIW, that chassis looks almost exactly like my Yard Man from 1977, with the oversized second stage. It's a very solid machine and they are worth a lot to people who appreciate their quality. You could make a few wear-related fixes as you mention and get another 40 years out of it.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Guys... OP hasn't been around for ten months... jus' sayin'. 🍻


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