# Ariens blower will not start with pull start only electric start



## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Hello All 
Has anyone else ever had this issue? I primed the blower twice, choke on and in start position pulled the rope starter and nothing. I plugged in the electric start cranked it a few times and it fired up. Let it run for a few minutes and it ran fine. Plug was recently replaced oil changed and everything was gone over in the fall.

It's rather cold out just wondering if it needs more than two primes when it is around 10 degrees outside.

Ideas?


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> Hello All
> Has anyone else ever had this issue? I primed the blower twice, choke on and in start position pulled the rope starter and nothing. I plugged in the electric start cranked it a few times and it fired up. Let it run for a few minutes and it ran fine. Plug was recently replaced oil changed and everything was gone over in the fall.
> 
> It's rather cold out just wondering if it needs more than two primes when it is around 10 degrees outside.
> ...


Probably needs more priming and pulling.
It is after all winter, nothing likes to start in winter..

It is 0F in the nickel city today, a rather brisk day by my standards but nothing to freak out over.
I can pull start everything here if i need to.
With thick oil it may be hard to pull an engine explaining why the electric is working fine for you.
Maybe you just can't roll it over fast enough.

Try priming it more...
Gasoline also is harder to light off in the engine when its really cold
You might need more fuel to cold start.


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## Matty74 (Nov 21, 2013)

I'd do the electric start in cold weather and let it warm up. I find the the pull start works after it's been running awhile in extreme cold temps. It was -11 here last night in Minnesota


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

What weight oil? Regular/Dino or synthetic?


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

CO Snow said:


> What weight oil? Regular/Dino or synthetic?


5w-30 synthetic


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

sometimes you may not need full choke, try 3/4 or 1/2 choke to start it with pull start.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

GoBlowSnow said:


> sometimes you may not need full choke, try 3/4 or 1/2 choke to start it with pull start.


I went from an autolite to a champion plug I wonder if that makes a difference


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> I went from an autolite to a champion plug I wonder if that makes a difference


That can make a difference.
Is the plug gap set correctly?


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

3 pumps of the primer and full choke is what most MFG say on a cold start. Tthat is a starting point for most common conditions.. You may need 4 or 5 pumps and or less than full ckoke. You need to play with it to see. Not uncommon on a very cold day to need more priming and a few more pulling. On the other hand it may suggest your spark gap is less than optimum and your ignician module has declined a bit. When you have time you could check the clearnance of the magneto to flywheel magnets. Lot of variables , cant even list them all.......but dont worry if all you need to do is prime it more and give it two or three more pulls. You are fine.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> That can make a difference.
> Is the plug gap set correctly?


Gapped at .030


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Cstanis said:


> Gapped at .030


On a flat head Techumseh, that is the correct gap. What engine are you using?


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> On a flat head Techumseh, that is the correct gap. What engine are you using?


A Tecumseh snow king 6.5 horse power


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Well....
Plug is right and nothing you said sounds like problem.
I guess you just need to play with it in the cold temperatures you are experiencing and see what does or does not work for you.

There is always a learning curve.
I have a new to me a 208 clone with 15w40 oil in it running at low temperatures.
I don;t know this machine at all and need to putter with it.
Oil is thick and the engine does not turn over well.
My gasoline supply has a lot of summer fuel in it that does not vaporize well.
Its not easy to start so I need to tinker with it just like you.
And it needs a little time to warm up and take the choke off.
It seems to start best with slighty less than full choke and 3 or 4 primes.

I had one Tecumseh flat head I used to pre-warm with a propane torch.
I would warm up the head and warm up the carb and intake.








It would only need a short shot of warmth, not really even warm too the touch just not ice cold and that engine would easily pull start.
With out a little help it was a pain to fire up.
Just that little warmth is all it needed.

So to answer your question I think you just need to tinker a bit ( pick a day when its not going to be a problem if you flood it )


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

I am leaning towards this champion plug. I had an autolite I their before and it started good in cold weather. The manual calls for a champion r n4c and that is what I put in there


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

NOS said:


> I have a new to me a 208 clone with 15w40 oil in it running at low temperatures.
> I don;t know this machine at all and need to putter with it.
> Oil is thick and the engine does not turn over well.


Is it leaking oil so bad that you do not want to put a winter weight oil in it?


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Is it leaking oil so bad that you do not want to put a winter weight oil in it?


No that is what it calls for


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Some thoughts.
I don't know what engine you have.
could it be this?









The first one is a true tecumseh from before the bankruptcy.
Not an LCT engine


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Is it leaking oil so bad that you do not want to put a winter weight oil in it?


No....
I just didn't have anything thinner at the time of testing
All my engines use a rotella T summer 15w/40 and winter can be using a shell gas engine oil 5w30 or 10w/30 rotella depending on what happened to be cheapest.



Cstanis said:


> No that is what it calls for


Some clones do call for 15w/40 even though its the same engine as every other clone.
I think when the Chinese first started to make them they treated them like other utility engines they were building and recommended the thicker oils they were more comfortable with in the diesels.

Functionally a thicker diesel oil is just fine as long as it is not used outside the operating range intended by the manufacturer.

Here is a thread on the subject from Bob the oil guy.





Lifan 168F-2(Honda GX200 clone) oil recommendation confusion


Hi, I have some questions about the oil recommendations of a Lifan 168F-2 engine, which I believe to be a Honda GX200 clone. I bought this engine from a German importer(Wiltec) which also provides the manual for the engine. The manual doesn't have an oil viscosity chart and simply says to use...



bobistheoilguy.com


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

15W40 is a diesel engine oil .....


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> 15W40 is a diesel engine oil .....


Yes it is.
Diesel oils are good.
T is for turbo rated ( high temp like an air cooled engine)
The detergent packages and additives in diesel oils help control dirt and soot and protect bearing and cams under high pressure.
Since our little engines lack oil filters, pressure lubrication and are subject to high temperatures it is my opinion its better to use a diesel rated oil and change it often than use a more expensive oil and leaving it in there until its truly dirty.

Your mileage may vary.

In a race application you want to use the thinnest oil you can and have as little as possible in the engine.
This is to reduce drag and foaming.
I used to use Mobil one 20w/0 in some race engines bot because it was the best but it was cheap and was changed after every night. ( best value )


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Cstanis said:


> I am leaning towards this champion plug. I had an autolite I their before and it started good in cold weather. The manual calls for a champion r n4c and that is what I put in there


Ok, then you must have an OHV engine not a Flat head engine.


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

pictures would help to identify the engine.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Ok, then you must have an OHV engine not a Flat head engine.


Yes it is an OHV engine


NOS said:


> pictures would help to identify the engine.


It is a Tecumseh OH195SA


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

I guess that answers a lot of questions then.
You have the right plug for it and all your bases covered.
Tecumseh part number 34645 is Champion RN4C
Do you still have the Autolite?
Maybe thats a better plug for this engine give it a real good clean and try it out or buy a new one.
This is my opinion but Champion plugs are not what they used to be.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> I guess that answers a lot of questions then.
> You have the right plug for it and all your bases covered.
> Tecumseh part number 34645 is Champion RN4C
> Do you still have the Autolite?
> ...


I kept the old plug. I am going to clean it up and put it back in. If it works I am going to go buy a new one 

Have you ever used NGK? It seems a lot of people like them.


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> I kept the old plug. I am going to clean it up and put it back in. If it works I am going to go buy a new one
> 
> Have you ever used NGK? It seems a lot of people like them.


I use them a lot.
I have a preference for them in my Yamaha or Honda engines.
recently I started to put them in others but I make no claims that they are the best.
Some engines seem to start and run better with a premium plug from one brand compared to another.

Do you have any paint remover?????
The old stuff with Methyl Chloride in it? ( the bad stuff )
It usually does a good job of loosening up carbon try some of that to clean your plug
This works great.








But I suspect you cannot buy it in the USA.
This probably sucks...


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> I use them a lot.
> I have a preference for them in my Yamaha or Honda engines.
> recently I started to put them in others but I make no claims that they are the best.
> Some engines seem to start and run better with a premium plug from one brand compared to another.
> ...


I usually use brake cleaner and a wire brush. If it don't clean up I will just get a new one. 

I have had this machine a long time and it always fired with the rope starter only thing different is the champion plug. I am going to check the primer bulb too maybe the hose cracked or came loose.


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

OK just be careful with brake clean.
When it burns it creates a lot of toxic fumes ( so does the MC in the other product )

On two stroke engines with fiber reeds, engines with cork floats,some plastic parts, rubber fuel lines and O rings, the brake clean will damage and desolve things.

And its bad for you worse than anything I can think of.
I don't use the stuff...
I use Xylene to clean or MC but I am dam careful with the MC.

I even have been known to spray MC into a spark plug hole and let sit for a few minutes before starting to remove carbon.
And it I use it directly to remove carbon from disassembled engines, but the stuff is so aggressive and potentially harmful its an outdoor thing only and I have seen it eat aluminum if left too long.

This is the best stuff I as far as safety and effectiveness goes.
Its also 108 octane and fuel system safe ( its in gasoline ).








This is slow evaporating and will soften paints and vanish, gum in fuel systems and will do what you are using the Chlorinated solvents for but is much less toxic ( but more flammable ).

Still you should wear chemical gloves and work outside in fresh air with any of these things.
Never in the house and if you have a respirator....


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> OK just be careful with brake clean.
> When it burns it creates a lot of toxic fumes ( so does the MC in the other product )
> 
> On two stroke engines with fiber reeds, engines with cork floats,some plastic parts, rubber fuel lines and O rings, the brake clean will damage and desolve things.
> ...


I wonder if a little sea foam would work?


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> I wonder if a little sea foam would work?


Sea foam is mix of Iso Alcohol, some naptha, and mild detergents and cleaners.
Its a product designed more for dirty fuel systems in outboards in the days before ethanol gas.

OMC used to paint the inside of engines with a product called Glyptal...
Anything too aggressive would lift the paint and it would destroy the engine.
Seafoam was formulated with this in mind.

It will not help with corroded parts, but it can desolve gum and clean water out of a marine fuel system.
It has some pretty good solvent properties because of the ISO but its not really going to do much about hard carbon


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> Sea foam is mix of Iso Alcohol, some naptha, and mild detergents and cleaners.
> Its a product designed more for dirty fuel systems in outboards in the days before ethanol gas.
> 
> OMC used to paint the inside of engines with a product called Glyptal...
> ...


I am just going to buy a new plug. I checked the primer bulb and everything looks good there. I watched a YouTube where the guy heated the plug with map gas until cherry red and the carbon just fell off. Not sure but I don't think that is a good way to clean a plug


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

YouTube has anyone and their brother or sister putting everything on there from eyebrow plucking to engine building .... take it with a grain of salt for what it is ....

Remember, it takes all kinds to make a world ...  ... or as they say, "there is one born every minute" ...


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> YouTube has anyone and their brother or sister putting everything on there from eyebrow plucking to engine building .... take it with a grain of salt for what it is ....
> 
> Remember, it takes all kinds to make a world ...  ... or as they say, "there is one born every minute" ...


Agree


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> Agree


What brand of plug do you use?


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> I am just going to buy a new plug. I checked the primer bulb and everything looks good there. I watched a YouTube where the guy heated the plug with map gas until cherry red and the carbon just fell off. Not sure but I don't think that is a good way to clean a plug


Well I would not do it.
Warm it up enough to burn off oil is fine.
Red hot risks damaging the insulator from thermal shock and expansion.

Some people used to sand blast them.





Lead in gasoline used to foul plugs more than anything else.
This was a solution, but part of the problem is you might introduce some sand into your engine if they were not cleaned Very well after ( this was an absolute no no in aircraft )

I have a Kohler K331 with a Phelon ignition that uses fully shielded military style plugs.
Plugs are 50 bucks each so I confess to bead blasting one and carefully cleaning.

Any day of the week a new plug is better than a used one.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Cstanis said:


> a good way to clean a plug


I cleaned my first spark plug on a bench grinder's wire wheel in 1963 and have been doing it that way ever since... A light touch is the key.


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Smoke shops used to sell these tiny long bristle brushes for cleaning a Zippo
I have not seen one in ages but they were great for cleaning plugs.
The trouble with metal wire wheels is they invariably leave something on the ceramic.
There is no glaze on a spark plug centre electrode insulator and if you so something to it, contaminate it or wear it you can change the way the plug behaves.
It might not make a significant difference, and then again it might.
So a gentle touch is whats needed.
I would prefer to do this cleaning and scaling by hand with some chemical assistance.

Not all plugs are the same.
Some go straight to the vice for some alterations before they are gaped and installed.
Once and a while you get one that just works better than others even in the same type and brand but a different engine.


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## nitehawk55 (Sep 9, 2021)

Carbon build up on the insulator is what causes most plug failures, the carbon acts as a conductor and shorts out the plug causing a mis-fire or no start.
Those old blaster plug cleaners were the best for cleaning properly.


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

nitehawk55 said:


> Carbon build up on the insulator is what causes most plug failures, the carbon acts as a conductor and shorts out the plug .
> Does old blaster plug cleaners were the best for cleaning properly.


Not so much on a modern properly tuned engine.
Its a balancing act you want the plug hot enough to burn the insulator clean but not so hot it causes pre-ignition.
Light tan would be normal in an OHV engine thats not to lean or too hot.

I am going to use this plug as an example because its real obvious whats going on.
Its very hot first off, look at the shell and you can see there is no oil on the threads for 7 turns.
Very hot I would prefer to see about 4 or 5 before enough heat is soaked away into the head.
Look at the colour change on the ground strap it starts around the lower 2/3 of the strap.
This is an indication of timing and I could back off the ignition a touch.
Next we look at the centre electrode and insulator.
Its white cooked clean and the centre looks as it if it was red hot.

In operation this engine was running on when the ignition was off and showing signs of pre-ignition.

Symptoms of too much compression and not enough done I could back the timing off a bit and move to a cooler plug.
When I pick this project up again I will remember this









Same engine one range cooler and this is a premium plug with a iridium electrode.
Its been cleaned but you can sill see a light tan on the center.
I am going to go one step cooler too









Sometimes you just have to play around to find what works best, especially with a modified engine.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> Not so much on a modern properly tuned engine.
> Its a balancing act you want the plug hot enough to burn the insulator clean but not so hot it causes pre-ignition.
> Light tan would be normal in an OHV engine thats not to lean or too hot.
> 
> ...


The auto lite plug I pulled out the other day was pretty black. The champion plug seems to start slower. Auto center was out of the autolite plug I needed


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

So many variables you need to get an engine hot and under load then shut it down to get a proper plug reading.
Just let it idle a few minutes will change the look of the plug.
Especially if your jetting is off or the engine was not fully up to temperature.
Or you could have a bad plug, they always look bad too...

Your ran well you said so plug is probably ok just not up to temperature to burn clean.

Onan OTC engines were always brutal when it comes to spark reading.
You needed to get them hot and under full load.
You had to tune and time them with a load bank
Back them off they would darken and sometimes carbon foul.
They would bark and miss at light loads on propane unless you closed up the gap to .020 or less in some cases.
Just a quirk of the design.....
Same engine different head and different plugs would react completely different ( compare a BF to a BG engine )

Guys would curse them complain they were a lot of trouble and needed frequent de-carboning.
trouble was light loads and overly rich mixtures, worn points and late timing....
They demanned to be tuned

Kohler flat


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> So many variables you need to get an engine hot and under load then shut it down to get a proper plug reading.
> Just let it idle a few minutes will change the look of the plug.
> Especially if your jetting is off or the engine was not fully up to temperature.
> Or you could have a bad plug, they always look bad too...
> ...


The motor runs well once it is started and warms up a little bit. Still not sure why the change from autolite to champion seems to make it start harder. The champion is the recommended OEM plug. Full choke two primes mid throttle one pull and it would start. It doesn't make sense to me


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## jherbicide (Oct 14, 2021)

NOS said:


> So many variables you need to get an engine hot and under load then shut it down to get a proper plug reading.
> Just let it idle a few minutes will change the look of …,


Heck on a 2 stroke a second of idle or anything other than WOT under load will taint a plug read. Best practice is to WOT under full load then turn engine off under those conditions. 2 or 4 stroke.

Pretty hard to do on a snowblower though. 😁


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

jherbicide said:


> Heck on a 2 stroke a second of idle or anything other than WOT under load will taint a plug read. Best practice is to WOT under full load then turn engine off under those conditions. 2 or 4 stroke.
> 
> Pretty hard to do on a snowblower though. 😁


Get it warm load it down turn it off
Not that hard, you want to see the plugs under load.


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> Full choke two primes mid throttle one pull and it would start. It doesn't make sense to me


Once you have another plug you can see if maybe the Champion is the problem.
Its not just me, lots of people find that Champion plugs are in consistent.
The premium ones they sell are better, but the cheaper ones in the blister packs from Mexico disappoint.

What else could it be?
Did you buy gas from a different place?
Maybe you got a load of fuel that has more ethanol than normal or maybe the moister content of the fuel is higher than normal.
Maybe there is summer fuel in the system thats less easily vaporized than your normal area winter blend.
There have been all kinds of fuel issues this last year and maybe you blower is more sensitive to fuel


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

jherbicide said:


> Heck on a 2 stroke a second of idle or anything other than WOT under load will taint a plug read. Best practice is to WOT under full load then turn engine off under those conditions. 2 or 4 stroke.
> 
> Pretty hard to do on a snowblower though. 😁


Don't want to sound stupid but what does WOT stand for?


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> Once you have another plug you can see if maybe the Champion is the problem.
> Its not just me, lots of people find that Champion plugs are in consistent.
> The premium ones they sell are better, but the cheaper ones in the blister packs from Mexico disappoint.
> 
> ...


I am going to call a few more places today to see if they have a new autolite plug. The gas well actually no I didn't get it from the same place but it was fresh. I don't clean my gas cans out like others do here maybe I should start doing that.


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## jherbicide (Oct 14, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> Don't want to sound stupid but what does WOT stand for?


Wide open throttle. This stuff is more for tuning “high performance” engines like motorcycles and racing stuff; especially 2 strokes where lean mixtures at WOT will hole a piston or cause destructive detonation in no time. It’s all Overkill for a snowblower though, 2 or 4 stroke.


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

jherbicide said:


> Wide open throttle. This stuff is more for tuning “high performance” engines like motorcycles and racing stuff; especially 2 strokes where lean mixtures at WOT will hole a piston or cause destructive detonation in no time. It’s all Overkill for a snowblower though, 2 or 4 stroke.


Most people will not notice an engine thats slightly out of tune or be concerned about it.
Some people can tell when things are off and will be bothered by it.


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## jherbicide (Oct 14, 2021)

NOS said:


> Most people will not notice an engine thats slightly out of tune or be concerned about it.
> Some people can tell when things are off and will be bothered by it.


Personally for a snowblower I wouldn’t care that much, slightly rich or lean isn’t going to grenade the motor, nor gain noticeable performance.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

jherbicide said:


> Wide open throttle. This stuff is more for tuning “high performance” engines like motorcycles and racing stuff; especially 2 strokes where lean mixtures at WOT will hole a piston or cause destructive detonation in no time. It’s all Overkill for a snowblower though, 2 or 4 stroke.


Thanks, I am starting to catch on. Never worked much on small motors


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

jherbicide said:


> Personally for a snowblower I wouldn’t care that much, slightly rich or lean isn’t going to grenade the motor, nor gain noticeable performance.


No it will not.
It may be many things like a bad new plug or fuel related
But it will effect operation that he has noticed and came here to understand why and how to diagnose and fix it.


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## WIHD (Dec 15, 2019)

Cstanis said:


> I went from an autolite to a champion plug I wonder if that makes a difference


IMO, for any small engine, NGK all day every day.

Also non-eth fuel treated w/ Stabil (put it in the can when you fill up at the gas station. Stabil or 'other')

First year I had my 921051 (414) it would start kinda hard/finicky. Though after the first year, putting in the NGK, I find I have to push the primer bulb 5-8 times and THEN pull the starter cord to fire & it often fires right up. Also, maybe try starting it at least 1x a week even if you don't need it just to keep it fluid.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> No it will not.
> It may be many things like a bad new plug or fuel related
> But it will effect operation that he has noticed and came here to understand why and how to diagnose and fix it.


I appreciate your help. I am kind of a perfectionist and want things right. Found an auto supply store that has a new autolite plug going to go and pick it up.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> I appreciate your help. I am kind of a perfectionist and want things right. Found an auto supply store that has a new autolite plug going to go and pick it up.


I checked the gap and installed the new autolite. I primed it 4 times and it started on the second pull. It ran smooth after I let it warm up a bit. I noticed a little bit of gas under the carb maybe I over primed it. The carb was dry after it ran and I shut it off.


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

They make a good plug.
I used to use the AR3910X with methanol.
I liked that plug but it fouls easy on gasoline.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> They make a good plug.
> I used to use the AR3910X with methanol.
> I liked that plug but it fouls easy on gasoline.


I will try it again tomorrow and see what happens. I really do appreciate your help


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> I will try it again tomorrow and see what happens. I really do appreciate your help


 No problem.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Cstanis said:


> Don't want to sound stupid but what does WOT stand for?


Wide Open Throttle


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

NOS said:


> No problem.


I tried it today 4 primes, two pulls and it fired up. Used to be one pull but I am ok with that. Temp is 6 degrees here today maybe that has a bearing on it.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Not atypical . . . fuel vaporizes a lot more slowly in the cold. First pull primes more via choke, second starts it . . .


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## Zedo (Sep 3, 2018)

Cstanis said:


> Hello All
> Has anyone else ever had this issue? I primed the blower twice, choke on and in start position pulled the rope starter and nothing. I plugged in the electric start cranked it a few times and it fired up. Let it run for a few minutes and it ran fine. Plug was recently replaced oil changed and everything was gone over in the fall.
> 
> It's rather cold out just wondering if it needs more than two primes when it is around 10 degrees outside.
> ...


Since you changed out the sparkplug cross check it with the old one, it might be too hot are too cold for your type of engine. Spark plugs with high heat dispersal are referred to as cold and start better in colder temps. Just another thing to look at.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Zedo said:


> Since you changed out the sparkplug cross check it with the old one, it might be too hot are too cold for your type of engine. Spark plugs with high heat dispersal are referred to as cold and start better in colder temps. Just another thing to look at.


I put in the OEM recommended plug a champion RN4c the plug I removed was an autolite 403. I bought a new autolite and removed the champion it seems to run better on the autolite.


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## Johner (Dec 30, 2020)

NOS said:


> Probably needs more priming and pulling.
> It is after all winter, nothing likes to start in winter..
> 
> It is 0F in the nickel city today, a rather brisk day by my standards but nothing to freak out over.
> ...


Have had this happen to another brand, first change the spark plug and try, if that fails use a little quick start.


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## SnowGuy69 (Feb 12, 2014)

Cstanis said:


> I am leaning towards this champion plug. I had an autolite I their before and it started good in cold weather. The manual calls for a champion r n4c and that is what I put in there


I had a car I tracked (Lime Road, Pocono, Bridgehampton). My experience was Champion’s never lasted the day. The best, IMHO….NGK. If you replace the Champion, give NGK a try. BTW: they have good technical support. You may want to consider calling them to get the correct heat range. YMMV


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## Craigory (Nov 11, 2021)

tadawson said:


> Not atypical . . . fuel vaporizes a lot more slowly in the cold. First pull primes more via choke, second starts it . . .





Cstanis said:


> Hello All
> Has anyone else ever had this issue? I primed the blower twice, choke on and in start position pulled the rope starter and nothing. I plugged in the electric start cranked it a few times and it fired up. Let it run for a few minutes and it ran fine. Plug was recently replaced oil changed and everything was gone over in the fall.
> 
> It's rather cold out just wondering if it needs more than two primes when it is around 10 degrees outside.
> ...


ether. If there’s a spark, it will fire.


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## Richie (Feb 24, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> Hello All
> Has anyone else ever had this issue? I primed the blower twice, choke on and in start position pulled the rope starter and nothing. I plugged in the electric start cranked it a few times and it fired up. Let it run for a few minutes and it ran fine. Plug was recently replaced oil changed and everything was gone over in the fall.
> 
> It's rather cold out just wondering if it needs more than two primes when it is around 10 degrees outside.
> ...


All the time and every year that I start mine. 
Pull start is great in the Fall and then a genuine pain in Winter weather. In my experience here in Maine is that snowfall is followed by a cold front for a couple days, so unless the temps rise to the thirties at the next snowfall, this "can't pull start" pattern is repeated. I've since wised up and electric start it every time in the wintertime. Saves me a lot of frustration. Doesn't seem to adversely affect the motor besides the initial short blast of white smoke... which would happen anyway on pull start. btw, I leave mine outside.


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