# Broken Intake Manifold Screw



## King285 (Dec 14, 2015)

Yup. I did it. Removing a carb and manifold to perform a cleaning on a restoration unit, I managed to snap the screw. Luckily I still have a quarter inch of it protruding from the block but it's not budging, not even with vice-grips. I'll be applying PB Blaster over the next few days with hope that it will free up. I'd rather not go through the drill/tap approach especially since I don't have tapping tools.

Any other recommendations?


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

(remove the fuel tank) gently heat around the stud, then cool the stud with an ice cube...then try vice grips, be quick tho.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

2 ways I go about those. just like above only use candle wax and see if it will suck some in. If not, put a nut on what you can and weld it onto the stud - lay into it good and get it cherry red. Once it cools it will back out


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## AL- (Oct 27, 2014)

Another option that helps is banging a few times on the end of bolt to break the rust. You could try this first along with the PB Blaster and vice grips then go with the more intense remedies mentioned if needed.


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

block is cast iron right?? heat.. heat and more heat... all around the broken stud .. then with vice grips.. see if itl budge.. think of spindly thin exhaust bolts on car exhaust.. this is how its done.. or at least this is how i do this task at work  y oud be suprised how thin a springbolt gets and still turns after 10-12 years... ut the nut has to be glowing red .. othrwise it breaks and is a whole othr ballgame


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Like everyone is saying, heat. Also smack it with a hammer to try and break it free. I'd suggest a couple cycles of get it nice and hot and do the wax or PB Blaster on it hot so the wax or PB cools it and gets sucked in. Do it a few times before you start trying to work it as the PB (I prefer it) might get in far enough to help break down the bond from the bolt to the block.

Welding on a nut is a great idea as the heat helps and be ready with an impact set on a soft setting so it raps the bolt fast but not hard.
I specifically paid a lot of money for a 1/4 inch impact gun for doing bleeder valves. Guys in the shop would laugh at me pulling it out of my box but not after seeing it spin a stuck bleeder free. It doesn't have the strength to shear the bleeder but hammers it loose from the multiple strikes. Was a lifesaver on spark plugs stuck in aluminum heads too when the installer didn't bother to anti-seize on installation.


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## King285 (Dec 14, 2015)

nwcove said:


> (remove the fuel tank) gently heat around the stud, then cool the stud with an ice cube...then try vice grips, be quick tho.


Will map pro gas get it hot enough.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

King285 said:


> Will map pro gas get it hot enough.



it should but listen to the other advice given tap with a hammer pb blaster and lots of heat.

if you have a welder and can weld a nut on that would be the best imo


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

MAPP (methylacetylene-propadiene propane) is hotter than just regular propane and can be used in place of it on a regular torch.


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## Landngroove (Oct 12, 2015)

Be careful with heating with a torch. Your block may be aluminum, and will melt before you heat the steel bolt/stud.


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## King285 (Dec 14, 2015)

After several hours of heating with MAP, PB Blaster, hammer, etc., I was getting nowhere. Even managed to snap off the remainder of the exposed stud which I pretty much assumed was going to be an eventuality anyway. So time for the drill/tap method. Never attempted this before but watched Eric the Car Guy perform it on youtube. Seemed doable. I picked up a tap and dye set at the local Canadian Tire. Went through the drilling process of incremental increasing sizes, found the right sized tap bit, carefully worked it in, backed it out and finally a perfectly threaded hole. Just need to pick up a new bolt, and we're back on track with the project. 

It's only been about a year that I've taken on these snowblower restorations (1 completed, 2 on the go), with no mechanical repair training. Just a lot of youtube. Thank you Donyboy73. Every time I'm successful at performing one of these unfamiliar repairs it's quite gratifying. Current projects are a pair of 1973 Ariens 8/24 and 8/32. I'm sure I'll posting more questions and requests for advice in the weeks ahead. Thank you all for your help so far. 

Don't know what it is about snowblowers... but I'm hooked.


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## ztnoo (Nov 26, 2015)

I would advise when you put all that back together to use some anti-seize compound on the threads.......might save a lot of headaches in the future if you have to do the same repair again.
Just a suggestion....


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## King285 (Dec 14, 2015)

ztnoo said:


> I would advise when you put all that back together to use some anti-seize compound on the threads.......might save a lot of headaches in the future if you have to do the same repair again.
> Just a suggestion....


Most definitely. I typically wire brush/wheel dirty, rusty bolts/nuts and apply oil or anti-seize depending on the location.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Glad you got it sorted out.


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

sorry it didnt work out smoother tan it did but fantastic to hear you were able to get this sorted out.. good job on the drilling and tapping btw..it can be a little tedious to get a precise hole tapped squarely  

so a pat on the back to you good sir.. for rising to the challenge


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## Bob Cat (Jul 15, 2014)

Glad you got it out. I was going to suggest a product by Loctite called Freeze and Release.Along with heat on the right parts it works great on these small size parts . Like liquid nitrogen it freezes to something like minus 40. I was also surprized someone didn't mention to use an Easy-out. Many different ways but you can't argue with success. Good stuff!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I incrementally increase left-handed bit sizes to extract broken bolts...sometimes you get lucky, it walks-out while drilling Key is to put the center punch dead-center of the bolt, drill super slow (in reverse) & use tons of cutting oil.

this is a broken bolt coming out of an evinrude lower unit


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Meh - no hill for a climber! Sometimes the hard way is the best way...... I have had to retap plenty of them over the years. Youtube is a great resource.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Congratulations King -- it's always nice when you are able to work your way through an unexpected problem. That's why we're all here!



King285 said:


> After several hours of heating with MAP, PB Blaster, hammer, etc., I was getting nowhere. Even managed to snap off the remainder of the exposed stud which I pretty much assumed was going to be an eventuality anyway. So time for the drill/tap method. Never attempted this before but watched Eric the Car Guy perform it on youtube. Seemed doable. I picked up a tap and dye set at the local Canadian Tire. Went through the drilling process of incremental increasing sizes, found the right sized tap bit, carefully worked it in, backed it out and finally a perfectly threaded hole. Just need to pick up a new bolt, and we're back on track with the project.
> 
> It's only been about a year that I've taken on these snowblower restorations (1 completed, 2 on the go), with no mechanical repair training. Just a lot of youtube. Thank you Donyboy73. Every time I'm successful at performing one of these unfamiliar repairs it's quite gratifying. Current projects are a pair of 1973 Ariens 8/24 and 8/32. I'm sure I'll posting more questions and requests for advice in the weeks ahead. Thank you all for your help so far.
> 
> Don't know what it is about snowblowers... but I'm hooked.


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