# Predator Repower on old 10m5



## Capt. Chad (Dec 18, 2017)

Hey guys new member here. I’ve read through a bunch of posts and after much back and forth I decided to go with a new Predator vs. overhaul of my HSK70 (I will save that as a future project). I am 3rd generation over of my 1968 10m5 so this year I am giving it some love for its 50th birthday. I got to the point tonight to set the new engine on the frame and the studs are half inch too short? What’s the best way to get those old studs out? Are they just press fit or are they tack welded in place? Thanks!


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

I just did a slightly newer Ariens and they were tack welded.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

just knock them out with a mini sledge and replace them with new 5/16 bolts. i tack weld the new ones in from the top so they dont fall through the chassis


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## Capt. Chad (Dec 18, 2017)

Good deal! Thanks guys!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I just cut them off and popped them out ... I might have drilled out a tough one if I remember on my 10M5 conversion to a Predator.

When you put in the new bolts, cut some small circles out of a milk jug or such, with a slightly smaller hole than the new bolt. Slid the bolt up through the frame and slide the plastic home made thin washer over it. It will hold the bolts in place when setting the engine down on the frame, in case you cant tack them there with a welder.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...al-Tooth-Lock-Washers-12-Pack-20411/202704592


you can also use these but if you choose to use these you have to use low grade bolts. i use grade 5 bolts which have a tiny shoulder built in


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## Capt. Chad (Dec 18, 2017)

I’m not too keen about the chute control relocation to get around the OHV, but I think I can tweak that with more time and parts in the future.


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## Capt. Chad (Dec 18, 2017)

43128 said:


> just knock them out with a mini sledge and replace them with new 5/16 bolts. i tack weld the new ones in from the top so they dont fall through the chassis




Note to self... don’t tap out studs when alarm is set! Glass break sensor senses said “tapping”. That will have to wait till tomorrow.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I've done quite a few by cutting the studs out with a cutoff tool and 4 inch grinder, then centerpunching the studs and drilling and tapping to 5/16. The first one I did has lasted 15 years with no problems.


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## Capt. Chad (Dec 18, 2017)

Thanks for the tips guys! I might go with the plastic bottle trick for the time being. I am working on this project in my basement and my welding stuff is in my parents garage. Hopefully I can get the old ones out without too much trouble. This simple engine swap is less simple than I hoped. When I put the HSK70 on it a few years ago from another donor machine, it was only a 20 minute project...


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

It doesn't take too much longer, just dealing with the bolts is a bit of a hassle. I hammered mine out and installed longer bolts with washers from the bottom. 

Hardest part is getting them to stay in place while you line everything up but the milk jug trick sounds like just the ticket.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Not a real good shot of it, but all i did was re-drill a hole for one of the chute rod bracket bolts, allowing it to tilt slightly, and then put it through a 1/2 inch copper pipe piece and clamped that lower on the handle. Works just fine.

BTW, make sure you use nylon lock nuts as well, and check them after a few hours of running for snugness.


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## Capt. Chad (Dec 18, 2017)

Thanks! I am going to have to do something like that temporarily, but on my machine I have straight chute control rod with worm gear on the end (no U-joints). Over the spring/summer I will make a custom control rod with u-joints to adapt to my machine.

For the record, my engine mount studs were welded in place. I cut them off and drilled them out and went with the gallon jug trick to retain the bolts and it worked like a charm. I will tack them in place when the snowblower is in the same garage as my MIG welder.


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## Capt. Chad (Dec 18, 2017)

I am going to start the engine tonight. I saw a post somewhere about someone doing the 5 hour break in with conventional oil and then switching over to synthetic. Other than cost implications, is there any reason I shouldn't run synthetic for the break in? I have a brand new quart of straight SAE30 oil, but it looks like this engine calls for 5w-30 and all I have on the shelf is Mobil1.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

i wouldnt consider using synthetic for break in.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Use conventional oil for break in. Rings won't seat correctly with Syn.


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## Capt. Chad (Dec 18, 2017)

Started on second pull! Well 5th or 6th but I forgot to switch it to “on”!


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