# Toro 826 Help : Model Identification and Questions



## 762mm

Hello everyone,

New member here, with a new (to me) Toro 826 in my garage that I picked up locally for $160. The machine belonged to a friend of a friend who is a professional mechanic and was said to be very well maintained. He got it used a couple of years ago and fixed some issues (new belts, tune up, etc). The only things the machine is missing is the belt and the rear covers, for some reason. I looked for those online, but no dice.

Although I haven't tried it yet (no snow in the past week), I am told that the only issue with it is the drive system, as the forward gear doesn't always engage properly. The seller (mechanic) told me that the gear needs to be "pushed in a few times to work properly", but apparently he did not have time to mess around with it, but says it's only a minor issue. In his opinion, it needs either an adjustment or a new friction wheel.

The problem: I have no clue what model this is in order to look for proper parts, as the tag seems to have either been painted over or removed. The only thing I can get off the engine cover is the engine number: *190402 0755 09 74051310* (some numbers are faded, so I'm not 100% sure it's completely accurate).

If anyone knows anything about this machine, please chime in. I looked all over Google and YouTube to find out how to adjust the friction wheel, but it seems it's some top secret stuff! Some people say there is an adjustment nut, but I can't see where... I do a lot of maintenance and work on cars and trucks, but this seemingly simple thing has me baffled.

Thanks in advance for your help!


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## detdrbuzzard

hello 762, welcome to *SBF!!* that's a toro 826, model number 38150


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## 762mm

detdrbuzzard said:


> hello 762, welcome to *SBF!!* that's a toro 826, model number *38150*


Awesome, thanks a million! That definitely narrows the search for parts and manuals! 

Would you happen to know how to adjust the drive system on these? I've read somewhere that the rubberized friction wheel has to be smack down in the middle of the rotating metal disc when in neutral... mine seems to be positioned a bit to the left in neutral (see picture). Thanks!


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## JerryD

I recently picked up a 38150 with drive issues. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet.


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## detdrbuzzard

762mm said:


> Awesome, thanks a million! That definitely narrows the search for parts and manuals!
> 
> Would you happen to know how to adjust the drive system on these? I've read somewhere that the rubberized friction wheel has to be smack down in the middle of the rotating metal disc when in neutral... mine seems to be leaning a bit to the left. Thanks!


can't help with the friction wheel adjustment but someone here will be along soon that can talk you through it. you can download an owners manual from toro's website, its free. the only thing I had to do to my 826 was install new skids, I added an electric starter also


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## 762mm

detdrbuzzard said:


> can't help with the friction wheel adjustment but someone here will be along soon that can talk you through it. you can download an owners manual from toro's website, its free. the only thing I had to do to my 826 was install new skids, I added an electric starter also


Thanks! Mine came with an electric starter already installed and (what looks like) an aftermarket plastic gas tank and new straps. A good thing, because I read that the straps are now discontinued...

By the way, is it a problem if I run the machine with no front and rear covers? I guess not, as the previous owner did it and it seems not to have caused any issues as per what I was told. If I can't locate the proper covers, maybe I'll just McGuyver something out of sheet metal.

We'll see...


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## detdrbuzzard

if the belts get wet they might slip. check ebay parts do come up


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## detdrbuzzard

you could see if the parts from an older 724, 824 and 832 will work for you


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## 762mm

detdrbuzzard said:


> if the belts get wet they might slip. check ebay parts do come up


Will do, thanks! I live north of the border though (Canada), so a lot of the stuff that pops up on eBay is not always shipped up here. It depends on the seller.

That being said, I probably wouldn't use the Toro while it snows anyway... only when the snow stops and it's time for clean up. City plows have a tendency to dump a bunch of snow in the driveway when they pass, so it's kind of pointless blowing it while it's still coming down... because you know you'll have to bring out the snowblower again later.


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## joee5

762mm said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> New member here, with a new (to me) Toro 826 in my garage that I picked up locally for $160.


Welcome from the Garden State. Just picked one 826 myself this past Saturday for a cool 100 bucks. And she's fully functional as well.


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## 762mm

joee5 said:


> Welcome from the Garden State. Just picked one 826 myself this past Saturday for a cool 100 bucks. And she's fully functional as well.


Pretty good deal for a quality item, congrats! I figured I wouldn't even bother with the less reputable brands like MTD or what not. The only ones I was going to buy was either a Toro or Ariens (I love true and blue American steel, baby!) 

I saw some Toros for sale locally for less than I paid, but the provenance was uncertain... whereas I know the one I got came from a guy who took care of it. He told me he paid $200 for it a few years back (got it used from a classified ad) and done some work on it since, so definitely worth it.

As long as it runs right and blows snow, I'm a happy camper.


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## micah68kj

Welcome to the forum.


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## 762mm

micah68kj said:


> Welcome to the forum.


Thanks, glad to be here.


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## classiccat

Welcome to club *Toro!*

Nice machine you found there!


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## threeputtpar

That's a good condition 826, and a really good price. I had a 1979 version and the gas tank straps broke on mine too. Had to keep using 6" hose clamps to keep the tank on the machine.

The best thing about these throwers are the drummed auger and the 14" impeller. They will move prodigious amounts of snow compared to the newer 10 and 12" auger and impeller models.

Hopefully jeepman will be along to help you out. He's currently rebuilding an 826 for the upcoming winter, and he will likely know how to get yours set up and working correctly.


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## UNDERTAKER

that is a 1975-1977. model number 31763


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> that is a 1975-1977. model number *31763*


Ahh... thanks! How could you tell, if you don't mind me asking? I analyzed quite a few pictures on this site and Google images to narrow down the year and model, but couldn't tell. They all looked quite similar.

Was it perhaps the engine number that holds the key to the year and model?

-------------

*EDIT: *I Googled the model you suggested and got a link to an auction for the following:

*TORO 726 GAS SNOW BLOWER MODEL# 31763-3025 24" PATH BRIGGS & STRATTON MOTOR ELECTRIC START SNOW HOOD*

http://www.lotnut.com/app/item.html?guid=bdf10a7d-0d6f-4b93-9753-517672b0094c


Mine is an 826, not a 726... could it still be the same model number, despite the engine having a 1 hp difference? The controls also look kind of different from mine. Thanks!
​


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## UNDERTAKER

762mm said:


> Ahh... thanks! How could you tell, if you don't mind me asking? I analyzed quite a few pictures on this site and Google images to narrow down the year and model, but couldn't tell. They all looked quite similar.
> 
> Was it perhaps the engine number that holds the key to the year and model?


the rear end. as sir mix a lot says. I like big butts and I can not lie. I have a 1974 that was a 7-26 until I stuck a 8HP on it.


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> the rear end. as sir mix a lot says. I like big butts and I can not lie. I have a 1974 that was a 7-26 until I stuck a 8HP on it.


I see... I like nicely rounded rear ends too, but didn't take notice of the snowblower's. I guess all I care about is the way she'll blow... 

Would you happen to have any info on how to adjust the friction wheel on it? In fact, does it look like it needs an adjustment? (it's a bit off center to the left when in neutral). 

Thanks!


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## UNDERTAKER

there is a nut on the arm that moves the wheel you will have to play around with that 1.


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## UNDERTAKER

does it hit all the shift points right?????????


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> there is a nut on the arm that moves the wheel you will have to play around with that 1.


Ok, I'll check it out... thanks! So the friction wheel is definitely supposed to be smack down in the middle of the large rotating disk, right?

(that's what I've read elsewhere in regards to other snowblower brands)


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> does it hit all the shift points right?????????


No, it currently doesn't. It shifts from neutral to 1 and 2, then 3 is a bit hard to engage... and I hear a loud spring "pop" sound whenever I shift from 3rd back to 2nd or 1st or neutral.

I haven't had the machine running yet though (was away from home and had no fuel on hand when I bought it), so I don't know how well the traction mechanism actually works. All I could do is a visual inspection of the parts, plus rely on what the previous owner told me.

I'll start it up in the coming days though... and see how bad it is.


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## UNDERTAKER

that might be the spring on the back of the dashboard. spray it with lube it might be binding up. try that first and let me know.


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> that might be the spring on the back of the dashboard. spray it with lube it might be binding up. try that first and let me know.


Awesome, thanks for the tip. I'll check it out as soon as I get home. Will report back tomorrow!


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## UNDERTAKER

in the coming days if you can take a vid of the friction disk setup for me to see what is going on in that place.


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> in the coming days if you can take a vid of the friction disk setup for me to see what is going on in that place.


I'll try to do that. For now, I only have the pic of the friction disk in neutral (3rd post in this thread). Thanks!


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## jeepguy03

Yes, with the gear shift in neutral, the friction wheel should be right in the middle of the metal wheel, so when the metal wheel is spinning there isn't any contact. It looks like your friction wheel has to be moved to the right a little bit. I haven't adjusted mine in a long time, so I will have to pop off my bottom cover and have a look.

Nice machine! Mine goes through anything.


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## 762mm

jeepguy03 said:


> Yes, with the gear shift in neutral, the friction wheel should be right in the middle of the metal wheel, so when the metal wheel is spinning there isn't any contact. *It looks like your friction wheel has to be moved to the right a little bit.* I haven't adjusted mine in a long time, so I will have to pop off my bottom cover and have a look.
> 
> Nice machine! Mine goes through anything.


Thanks for confirming, much appreciated! 

With the holidays and my work schedule (I work for a 24/7 service), there was not much time for me to mess around with it or take a video. However, I did figure out the popping spring problem when shifting gears: turns out POWERSHIFT93 was right and all it needed is a little lube. The hexagonal metal rod on which the friction wheel rides left and right must've had some old dry lube on it, because the gears started moving easily and without the spring popping noise as soon as I sprayed it with some new liquid lube. The friction wheel is still off center in neutral though, so that problem remains.

Also, I noticed that nothing seems to happen when I pull the lever from neutral to reverse. The friction wheel doesn't move and stays in the same place, like nothing's connected. I figure that perhaps the friction wheel being unadjusted/off center has a lot to do with that, so I'll concentrate my efforts on making a proper adjustment first. I downloaded the manual for a similar model (1980's 826) and it says that I can adjust the friction wheel position (speed) by physically moving the location of the gear shifter (lever) on the control panel, in between the handlebars. Apparently, it can be accomplished by playing with the two bolts/nuts that hold it down to the control panel. Weird... I'll try that, but I don't really see how that could possibly help. Does a 1/8 of an inch difference on the lever at the control panel translate into a couple of inches of difference on the friction wheel?
*
P.S.* I'm away from home most of the time these days, so it was very hard for me to work on the snowblower or to diagnose it further. Luckily, we didn't get any snow in the past weeks and there's none in the forecast... let's hope it stays that way for a little longer!


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## UNDERTAKER

DID you check to see if something is binding up down there. if I remember right mine is off to one side. there are some adjustment nuts down in there you might have to get down and dirty with it.


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> DID you check to see if something is binding up down there. if I remember right mine is off to one side. there are some adjustment nuts down in there you might have to get down and dirty with it.


Didn't check yet as I was away from home most of the time lately, but will get on that shortly. I hear there's a snow storm heading this way, so the Toro will definitely see its' first challenge.

Based on a visual inspection, I'll probably have to put her in 2nd or even 3rd gear to get any traction, with the friction wheel being so off center in neutral. Reverse *might* work, I don't know... but I'll find out this weekend!

All in all, I hope she's up to the task! She certainly looks impressive all dressed up in cherry red and fueled up on the best high-octane sauce, but how good can she blow that dense white stuff? 

Aye, this is the question!


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## UNDERTAKER

the first gear on them things. are super slow you can walk right over it if you are not carefull.


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## UNDERTAKER

let's put it this way. it will dig you out fast.


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## 762mm

*Drive problem*

Allright... I dug up my driveway for the first time with my newly acquired vintage 826... well, sort of. 

It turns out my 826 starts and runs like a champ, engine-wise. That right there is a major plus, as engine issues would definitely be a huge concern. The auger seems to work allright as well. However, when I tried to put it into drive or reverse, it's a no go. I had the rear cover off and I could see the friction wheel and the chains it powers spinning (when a gear was engaged), but the Toro would not go. The entire machine was shaking side to side like if it wanted to go when a gear was engaged, but somehow the chains that were spinning along with the friction wheel could not transfer power to actually move the wheels on the ground. It felt like there was some sort of a clutch or something (at the wheels) that was not engaged... or broken.

Note: I cleaned the friction wheel and the metal disc it touches with a clean rag soaked in gasoline prior to the snowblowing session, so I know it had a good grip and wasn't slipping.


I tried to push in/out the two wheel clutch levers at the control panel (the ones that are supposed to help you turn), but it didn't do anything. I could see some sort of a small mechanism moving up and down at the wheel axle when I was pulling / pushing on them, but there still wasn't any power to the wheels. The Toro was 100% dead in the water.

So, after much frustration trying to get it to move on its' own, I ended up blowing snow off my driveway and side entrance path by manually pushing this thing through 6-10" of snow covered in ice. It weights a freakin ton and I slipped/fell with it a few times, injuring my leg...  Not an experience I care to repeat, so I need to fix this issue pronto. Because of its' weight and the amount of force it takes to push it through the snow, my 826 is pretty much useless in its' current (drive-less) state.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.


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## Grunt

Hello 762mm, are you sure the hitch pins on each wheel are going through the wheel hub and the axle? If the pins are in free wheel setting, you will get no movement of the machine. Also, look at each wheel hub and make sure the jaws on the driven part of the axle are engaged into the notches on each wheel hub. Here is a copy of the Toro two stage manual, courtesy of Shryp, in case you need it. I hope this helps.

http://shryp.ashendust.com/Snowblowers/2stagdrv.pdf


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## 762mm

Thank you for the quick reply. I am not sure, but I don't think my model has hitch pins in the axle... it's the "upgraded" model with the two push-in / pull-out levers that are supposed to assist you when making turns. They either engage or disengage individual wheels when pushed in or pulled out, which (I was told) replaces the manual pins. The only pins I can see at the outside hub are permanent cotter pins, which seem to go through the wheel and axle.

I took a closer look at the above mentioned turn assist wheel clutch mechanism and I believe I have found the cuplrit: the teeth on the clutches do not seem to go in far enough to actually make contact with the teeth on the wheel side. Whether the lever is pulled up or pushed down (for either wheel), the metal notches on the clutch mechanism never actually engage on either side. There's about a 1/8" gap at the closest setting.

So... I think once I adjust that, it should fix the issue and the wheels should start turning. I see an Allen-type bolt on top of the wheel clutch enclosure on each side and I figure that's probably what's used for adjustment (to adjust the clutch left or right on the axle). I will take a look at the manual you provided in the link (thanks!) and see if it covers it. I've taken some pictures of the mechanism in question (see attachment), although it's extremely difficult to get the camera in there.

To be continued...




*Edit:* I've read the relevant parts of the 2-stage snowblower manual, but it doesn't seem to cover the turn assist clutch mechanism on my Toro, nor does it indicate how to adjust my particular friction wheel set up. The friction wheel seems to work ok as is, but it could use a small adjustment for the 1st gear to engage.


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## UNDERTAKER

the hitch pins BROTHER GRUNT was referring to are on the wheel rims. why don't you post a vid of what is going on. so I can have a look see.


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> the hitch pins BROTHER GRUNT was referring to are on the wheel rims. why don't you post a vid of what is going on. so I can have a look see.


I didn't take a video because I couldn't, as it was getting too dark and cold to be messing around with that... pictures of the clutch system is all I could do at the time, once I got the machine back in the garage and diagnosed it the best I could. Anyway, the problem is simple to describe: the friction wheel turns ok, the chains turn ok, but there's no transfer of momentum to the wheels/tires.

From what I could observe, the clutch gears in each wheel do not engage when the left or right wheel clutch lever is engaged (down position) and quite evidently they need some sort of an adjustment. The only pin I see on the outside rim is a permanent cotter pin on each wheel. They're not the manual-type pins you see on other snow blowers and appear to be in good shape, so I assume I don't need to mess with those, although I will take a closer look at those as well. Currently, the wheels always spin freely in any gear (R, N, 1, 2, 3).

I'm away from home again, but I'll report back and take detailed pics when I get back. If conditions allow, I may take a video too. Thanks!


*P.S.* Mr. Powershift93, I've noticed you call quite a few members here "Brother". Mind me asking who gets that privilege and why?


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## UNDERTAKER

you will have to get those washers/ spacers from a TORO dealer. if those clutches are not working right. then it is time to get down and dirty with them.


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## UNDERTAKER

762mm said:


> I didn't take a video because I couldn't, as it was getting too dark and cold to be messing around with that... pictures of the clutch system is all I could do at the time, once I got the machine back in the garage and diagnosed it the best I could. Anyway, the problem is simple to describe: the friction wheel turns ok, the chains turn ok, but there's no transfer of momentum to the wheels/tires.
> 
> From what I could observe, the clutch gears in each wheel do not engage when the left or right wheel clutch lever is engaged (down position) and quite evidently they need some sort of an adjustment. The only pin I see on the outside rim is a permanent cotter pin on each wheel. They're not the manual-type pins you see on other snow blowers and appear to be in good shape, so I assume I don't need to mess with those, although I will take a closer look at those as well. Currently, the wheels always spin freely in any gear (R, N, 1, 2, 3).
> 
> I'm away from home again, but I'll report back and take detailed pics when I get back. If conditions allow, I may take a video too. Thanks!
> 
> 
> *P.S.* Mr. Powershift93, I've noticed you call quite a few members here "Brother". Mind me asking who gets that privilege and why?


 I WILL pm you on that one.


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## UNDERTAKER

the part number for those thrust washers are 3-8664. you should already have one on each wheel. I had to double them up on mine.


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## 762mm

After watching the following video, I'm going to see if my axle shaft also has two pin positions. My wheels seem to be pinned (with the cotter pin) to the outside hole, which would account for the extra space that prevents the clutches from locking.

I hope that's what it is. It would be a super simple fix...


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> the part number for those thrust washers are 3-8664. you should already have one on each wheel. I had to double them up on mine.



Thanks! That would make sense... in either case, those wheels are coming off to try to diagnose and fix it.


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## UNDERTAKER

make sure to pickle those clutches in black grease to.


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> make sure to pickle those clutches in black grease to.


Sure thing. I grease and/or anti-seize the **** out of everything mechanical I work on. It keeps it alive much longer and makes it easier to take apart the next time you need to. 

Saved me countless headaches in the past when working on brakes, wheel hubs, etc... on my trucks. So yes, it will definitely get a good dose of grease once I take it apart!


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## UNDERTAKER

I just keep a tub of black grease around for that. no need to get to fancy for that.


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## 762mm

With any luck, switching the position of the axle holes (on the outside rim) is all it is, as in the video in post #24... shift the cotter pin onto the inner hole and it should close the distance between the clutches, thus making them engage.

That being said, who in their right mind would pin the wheels on the wrong axle holes to begin with? And why?

(I'm perhaps jumping the gun with this assumption though, as perhaps there is no "inner" hole on the axle! I'll find out soon enough... fingers crossed!!!!)


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## UNDERTAKER

on those TORO shafts there is only one. not like what is in that vid.


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> on those TORO shafts there is only one. not like what is in that vid.


Oh d*mn... there goes my hopes of having it fixed quick, easy and cheap! 

So putting in extra washers is the only way to get the clutches to engage? There's no adjustment otherwise?

(that allen-type screw on the clutch housing looks awfully intriguing...)


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## UNDERTAKER

Those washers are one thing. but you will have to give a good looksee at the clutch setup. some might be binding up or missing in there.


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> Those washers are one thing. but you will have to give a good looksee at the clutch setup. some might be binding up or missing in there.


Will do as soon as possible. The thing that bothers me is that they're both experiencing exactly the same problem (left and right wheel): about 1/8" to 1/4" of extra distance on each side that prevent the clutch gears from engaging.

It feels like something very trivial and hopefully it is just that. The wheels will be coming off in the next few days for a closer inspection. I just hope there's no broken parts in there! There's not that many places I can think of (locally) where I could get parts, especially for a 30+ year old machine.


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## UNDERTAKER

I can still get my paws on most of those parts. here in the sub-zero frozen tundra.


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## Grunt

Here are links to a few other Toro drive problem threads to help figure out the operation. I hope these help. 

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...model-38150-traction-reassembly-problems.html

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/toro-snowblowers/21002-toro-find-but.html

I couldn't find the picture of it, but I remember someone with the same problem added a 1/8" thick piece of flat bar under the bottom part of the pivot bracket that has the rounded corner on it. This allowed the driven jaw to be pushed further out to engage the wheel notches.


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## threeputtpar

Just spitballing here, but what's the condition of those springs on the clutches? If they're toast, they won't be pulling the wheel side clutch onto the inner one.

On the 826 that I had, I think I had the opposite problem. It was always hard to get the clutches to engage when pushing down the rod, because it seemed that they never wanted to mesh properly. It would take brute force to get the clutch to "flip" over and engage the inner one, but it was very easy to disengage them almost like they were preloaded to pop out easy.

Edit: Now that I see a better picture, the springs actually are there to help disengage the clutch. So ignore my spitball suggestion.


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## 762mm

Thanks for your input guys. I'll be home later tonight and will try to get a better look and will try to snap some pictures while I'm at it. I'll report back as soon as feasible. 

My 826 seems to be in very decent shape for its' age (looks like it was shot with plenty of rustproofing oil over the years), so I'm hoping nothing's actually "toast". The rust seems to be minimal on most parts and it's what's actually gonna toast most metal in the long run.

Fingers crossed....





*Edit:* The following thread also seems relevant to my situation and indicates that it may be an extra washer issue after all, as POWERSHIFT93 suggested earlier:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/toro-snowblowers/8290-old-school-726-toro-model-see-pic.html

Once I'm done with everything, I'm gonna do a detailed write up on fixing this in a new thread, as it seems to be a reoccurring issue with these models. Next on the list will be figuring out the friction wheel adjustment! (still off center on mine, although no longer the primary concern when wheels refuse to turn, lol)


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## 762mm

*Update*

Well... I feel like somewhat of an idiot. I don't know how I missed it the first time when I looked at the clutches, but it turns out that worn & bent cotter pins at the hub and the lack of an external washer on one of the hubs were the culprits of my "extra clutch space".

The wheels would essentially slide off the hub at least 1/4" further than they were originally designed to and thus created the extra space in between the clutch teeth, preventing them from engaging.

Today I ordered a few stainless steel washers (with a 3/4" inside diameter, like the shaft) and bought some trailer pin clips to replace the cotter pins and secure the wheels properly with zero play this time. I took some pictures of the problem and will post them along with my fix when I get the parts and install everything. 

All in all, it turns out that my issue was just bad/worn/bent cotter pins (both sides) and the lack of a hub washer on one side. Thanks everyone for your help, I'm much obliged!


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## UNDERTAKER

MAZEL TOV there BROTHER 762!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## 762mm

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> MAZEL TOV there BROTHER 762!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


And Mazel Tov to you as well, brother Powershift93! 


*Picture 1:* Cotter pins bending and making the wheel slide off the hub, thus rendering clutches useless. I missed this very obvious flaw in my initial diagnosis a few days earlier... 

*Picture 2: *My first solution was to put a piece of thick aluminum wire I had on hand in the shaft hole and bending it into an "S" for retention, where the cotter pins used to be. It worked, but the aluminum wire was too soft and too prone to failure for my liking. The last thing I need is for this to give and have the wheel coming off in the middle of blowing snow...

*Picture 3: *Here is the final solution I came up with. In essence, replacing cotter pins with trailer pin clips. It required drilling out the shaft hole a tad bigger, but it was very easy to do. The steel Toro used for the shaft is very soft and the drill bit went through it like butter. After greasing everything up nice, it's all set and works like new!


I am still waiting on some stainless steel washers (3/4" ID) to come through the mail so I can replace the worn out washer on one side and add a washer to the other, but I had the blower out today and it has proper traction in ALL GEARS. I guess I don't need a friction wheel adjustment after all, which is a bonus!


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## 76toro832

detdrbuzzard said:


> can't help with the friction wheel adjustment but someone here will be along soon that can talk you through it. you can download an owners manual from toro's website, its free. the only thing I had to do to my 826 was install new skids, I added an electric starter also


detdrbuzzard, I know this is 5 years later and I don't know if you even still have that snowblower but I have a Toro 832 and I want to add an electric starter. What part did you use? I can't get a clear answer online... discontinued parts that have been replaced by other parts which are also discontinued... I'm going around in circles - you know the story. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!


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## toromike

Assuming you have an 8HP flat head Tecumseh, I have put a 33329 starter on those engines. Your engine must have a toothed flywheel. There should also be a cutout in the engine shroud backplate for the starter. Make sure to get a starter that includes the starter and switch mounting hardware. Available for about $60. Here's one source (I have no experience with this seller) but there are many others: https://www.amazon.com/STARTER-TECUMSEH-ENGINE-33329D-33329E/dp/B01A9HZRVU


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