# Engine Breakin Oil Period



## FullThrottle (Apr 7, 2017)

Hi Guys
I have 7 hours on my Honda Blower,in my user manual it tells me to run it for 20 hrs.before changing it.With the way things are going I won't be putting 20 hours on it this winter.
Since it will be laying around for the summer,should I replace it with new oil,or leave it in.I just like to leave used oil in my engines that's going to be not used for a long period.I am not sure if this question have been asked before.If not maybe Robert @ Honda can give me some advice what to do,there must be other members who didn't put 20 hours on their machine other than me and would like to know if they changed it out with a new oil change.


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## Freddy Ford (Jan 30, 2018)

Change it now. 20 hours on a splash lubed engine for break-in is on the high side. There is no oil filter to remove any larger particles that develop with the break-in process. 5-8 hours is frequently recommended by other manufacturers. Maybe Honda says 20 hours because their engines are built with tighter control/tolerances so any break-in material is minimal. Just play it safe since the amount of oil is so little to begin with.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

The factory fill oil is Honda’s power equipment 5w30. It’s not a special break in oil, it’s small engine oil, designed for splash lubed air cooled engines. 

At 7 hours The vast majority of the break in has already occurred. You can honestly use any oil you’d like but, honda’s Own power equipment 5w30 would be the best option. It’s a little pricy but the piece of mind might be worth the couple extra bucks. 

I don’t know about you guys but I personally spoil my snowblowers and work my lawn mowers like dogs. lol

I use synthetic blend oil and a splash of zddp in my small engines. My Honda snowblowers get Honda PE 5w30.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

The Ariens snow engine manual recommends the initial oil change after a month of use and every 6 months thereafter. For extreme operating conditions (more than 40 operating hours per year) the oil change interval is every 40 hours. The recommended oil is automotive detergent oil of 5W-30. Synthetic is an acceptable alternative. 

I use Mobil 1 0W-30 synthetic and change it at the end of each season (I don't know how many hours of use that is). The contaminants in the oil include water condensation and acids which will deteriorate bearings and other fine surfaces.


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## AriensHydroPro28* (Sep 25, 2017)

Change your oil the first 30 minutes of run time, of light, easy use. I purchased a new left over 28 Hydro Pro with a carburetor, last Fall. I have an extensive engine background and I broke my in what I felt was correct with the knowledge I acquired in the past, everyone is different, just the way I did it.*

I first, ran it 3-5 minutes for warm up in not the lowest but a few hundred RPM's over idle. Then I turned the throttle up to 3/4 and walked it around for 10 minutes. Then I turned it to full throttle and walked it around for another 10 minutes. I idled it down for less than 3-5 minutes. After 30 minutes, I consider the engine broken it to be used at full throttle for snow removal.*

I then got my oil drain pan and laid a paper towel flat over the hole, it stuck pretty good. I drained the oil with under 30 minutes of run time and it looked real clean. I left the oil pan over night to allow the oil to fully run through the paper towel as it was built up and drained very slowly.*

The next morning, all the oil was in the pan and the paper towel was left. It looked relatively clean. Then I went out in the sunlight, you wouldn't believe how many small shinny partials were attached to the paper towel. My wife was outside with me and I showed her. She took a picture and I tried to find it but I can't. I'll put it here in a couple of days.

I did another oil change after we had a small snow storm, about 45 minute run time and no partials were visible in the paper towel, I thought I would see some, so 30 minute run time on my engine was critical for engine durability, due to if I kept the metal partials in there at the manufactures recommendations, I would of had a mildly worn engine from the beginning. This is why we never listen to manufacturers recommendations. My machine is one it's 3rd oil changer with a handful of hours on it. Now I will change the oil every 10 hours. No oil filter and in my option, 10 hours is my limit.*

It's a no brainier with me. I run Mobil 1 synthetic and throw it away like water. Oil is so cheap, if you want a long life engine. I can't believe anyone would want to save a few dollars on their brand new $1,000 - $3,000+ machines. Especially ones without an oil filter.*

So, when we build engines, we run them very short periods of time and change filter/s and oil, we do that twice before the engine goes out for use. Then we know it has "no fine partials" in the oil, doing mild damage to an engine right off the bat. Some people might say that's crazy. Well it might be. That is how we do it, like I said, oil is cheap, engines are not. We also use these on out HD diesel generator engines. It does many things: filters to 1 micron, replenishes and maintains the TBN content of the oil and also removes moisture from the oil. Oil changes are done at 4 times manufacturers recommendations with oil sampling and oil level replenishing system incorporated. 

https://www.puradyn.com/filter-elements/


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## FullThrottle (Apr 7, 2017)

Thanks Guys appreciate you advice,I use 5W-30 synthetic in my vehicles,one of you mention it was a good alternative.I thought,since I have of this kicking around I could use it.But after reading your recommendations,which would be the better.I don't mine paying that little extra ,to get the best quality protection product.




AriensHydroPro28* said:


> Change your oil the first 30 minutes of run time, of light, easy use. I purchased a new left over 28 Hydro Pro with a carburetor, last Fall. I have an extensive engine background and I broke my in what I felt was correct with the knowledge I acquired in the past, everyone is different, just the way I did it.*
> 
> I first, ran it 3-5 minutes for warm up in not the lowest but a few hundred RPM's over idle. Then I turned the throttle up to 3/4 and walked it around for 10 minutes. Then I turned it to full throttle and walked it around for another 10 minutes. I idled it down for less than 3-5 minutes. After 30 minutes, I consider the engine broken it to be used at full throttle for snow removal.*
> 
> ...


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## AriensHydroPro28* (Sep 25, 2017)

We like Amsoil in the diesels and Mobil One in the gas engines. But they are all pretty good today. Here is an interesting article you might like:

What is the best synthetic motor oil?


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## jtw1979 (Mar 14, 2017)

My Cub Cadet with a 420CC Chonda says 5 hours change the oil the first time.


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## FullThrottle (Apr 7, 2017)

Thanks 
That is a very interesting article,regarding the Brand names.
I like you choice,now the problem is whether it's available in my area. 
Cheers


AriensHydroPro28* said:


> We like Amsoil in the diesels and Mobil One in the gas engines. But they are all pretty good today. Here is an interesting article you might like:
> 
> What is the best synthetic motor oil?


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Lots of truth in what AriensHydroPro28* says... I also check early and often during the break-in on any engine, to look for what's not supposed to be in there. The manufacturer's specified break-in procedure can be 5 hours or 20, or whatever, but those are just numbers on a piece of paper and won't get particulate contamination out of the engine. Put another way, if you pull the dipstick @1 hour and see metal contaminants do you thread the stick back in and run the engine for another 4 hours (or 19) before changing the oil? ...Of course not, at least not me. Get it outta there, lather/rinse/repeat until you're pulling consistently clean samples, *then* go to a regular hour/season based change schedule. This has rewarded me well over the years, so I stick with it.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

I’m changing mine today at 19 hours. I went with Tabora’s suggestion on pg 31 of the Re-jetting thread and the link shared. Makes sense. I’ll see what kind of particles are in there today and post back.

New Engine Break-in Procedure


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

If I had a "new" engine WITHOUT an Oil Filter, I would consider using a Magnetic Oil Plug for the 1st year, and gather up many of the ferrous metal fragments that get suspended in the oil:









I know it's an aluminum block; but so is my Volvo Car engine, and it's amazing to me how much magnetic crud is gathered up by a magnetic oil plug in between oil changes on an old engine . . . . I can imagine how much might be floating around on an engine that was just put in service.

The standard Pipe Thread of 3/8"-18 is used for Drain Plugs on most small American made engines, and they're typically available on eBay. I don't know the convention for Japanese and Chinese engines.

And you don't have to leave the Magnetic Plug in an engine for its entire life . . . . I move them around from engine to engine based upon where they might do the most good.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

That’s a good option to consider, but, I wonder if, in that link I posted, for the break in period of the engine, those metal particles may be what seals up the rings to the walls? That’s a far shot.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I don't think the particles will help seal things, personally. I think they're bad, vs good. 

If it's a steel drain plug, I stick a small rare-earth (neodymium) magnet to outside of the drain plug. Instant magnetized plug, with no risk of an internally-mounted magnet coming loose inside the crankcase.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Got the oil changed. No metal particles detected between the fingers. Visually, it was definitely on the darkest side of gold for sure. Here's a couple of pics.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Vermont007 said:


> If I had a "new" engine WITHOUT an Oil Filter, I would consider using a Magnetic Oil Plug for the 1st year, and gather up many of the ferrous metal fragments that get suspended in the oil:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wonder if you could magnetize your stock oil plug like what i use to do my screwdrivers with?


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

orangputeh said:


> I wonder if you could magnetize your stock oil plug like what i use to do my screwdrivers with?


If it's steel or black iron, why not ?


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

I had drained my oil into an ice cream bucket being sure that I would be careful not to trip up on it. Wouldn’t you know. 1.1 litres of oil with 19 hrs on it into my shop carpet. Between the rags and puppy absorbent pads, I got it all up but there will be a stain for sure, and a stench.


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## FullThrottle (Apr 7, 2017)

Hi Guys
I found out today that my Honda HSS928A doesn't come with a break-n in oil according to my Honda dealer ,where I purchased it.I was speaking to a mechanic who have worked there for over 35 years.He told me that when the Blowers are manufactured their is a Break -in oil used and the blower is tested at that time with the break-in oil.Once the test is completed,the oil is drained from the engine for shipment.
When the blower is bought/purchased it is delivered to the serviced dept.where it will go through a PDI.during the PDI at that time the oil specified in our User manual is used and all along I assumed it had a break-in oil in it,and had to be used several hours for this oil to seat the rings.I wonder how many others think/assumed that their Engine has break-in oil in their Engine ,but little do they know it's only the oil referenced in the user manual.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Well, any dino-based oil will work fine as a 'break-in' oil. Just stick to that for the first change or two before you think about using a fancy slick synthetic.

There's a video up somewhere here of the manufacturing of Honda blowers, shows the engine run-in testing... maybe I can find it.


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## FullThrottle (Apr 7, 2017)

I was really surprised when he told me the break-in was only used to test it after it came of the assembly line,and just the regular oil that is specified in our user manual was installed during PDI. prior to me purchasing it.I told him my engine only had 6 hours on it and won't get 20 hours on it this season.He said no big deal change it out before you store over the summer months and that the rings had pretty much seated by now with the 6 hours on it.
I find it odd that the manual tells you to leave the oil in it for 20 hours so the rings can seat and this guy who who tells me he have been working on Honda Engines for 35 years to tell ,not to worry about it and change the oil ,after the winter season ends. 



Yanmar Ronin said:


> Well, any dino-based oil will work fine as a 'break-in' oil. Just stick to that for the first change or two before you think about using a fancy slick synthetic.
> 
> There's a video up somewhere here of the manufacturing of Honda blowers, shows the engine run-in testing... maybe I can find it.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

csonni said:


> I’m changing mine today at 19 hours. I went with Tabora’s suggestion on pg 31 of the Re-jetting thread and the link shared. Makes sense. I’ll see what kind of particles are in there today and post back.
> 
> New Engine Break-in Procedure


You did it right, csonni... That's the best thing for longevity in an engine. I'm always surprised when people try to second guess the engineers that designed and built these things. I've been building/rebuilding marine, motorcycle, power equipment & racing engines for over 50 years, and if you break them in right, and don't over-rev them, they last practically forever.

"Keep thine ears on the engine and thine eyes on the tach and dipstick, lest thy whirlybits seek communion with the sun."


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

FullThrottle said:


> I find it odd that the manual tells you to leave the oil in it *for 20 hours so the rings can seat *and this guy who who tells me he have been working on Honda Engines for 35 years to tell ,not to worry about it and change the oil ,after the winter season ends.


I don't have one, but I pulled up an HSS928 manual and took a look through. I saw that they suggest changing the oil after 20 hours (or "first month"). But does it say that this is to let the rings seat? 

It could just be that they're trying to strike a "reasonable" balance, calling out 20 hours because the oil wouldn't yet be too dirty, but not so soon that they would irritate owners. Engine enthusiasts may not balk at changing it after a few hours, but then you have the large % of the population who maybe changed their mower's oil 5 years ago  

If they're supplying normal oil in the included bottle of oil, then there's nothing special about it, and no reason to leave that particular oil in there for a certain amount of time, IMO. As long as you were replacing it with regular (dino) oil, I think you could probably change it after an hour or two, if you'd prefer. Though it might be good to (edit, sorry, this post originally was incomplete: ) wait until 10-20 hours before going synthetic, if possible, to help make sure the rings are seated fully.


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## FullThrottle (Apr 7, 2017)

Thanks Guys, a decision as been made,Oil will be changed at the end of the winter season,before it goes in to storage.



RedOctobyr said:


> I don't have one, but I pulled up an HSS928 manual and took a look through. I saw that they suggest changing the oil after 20 hours (or "first month"). But does it say that this is to let the rings seat?
> 
> It could just be that they're trying to strike a "reasonable" balance, calling out 20 hours because the oil wouldn't yet be too dirty, but not so soon that they would irritate owners. Engine enthusiasts may not balk at changing it after a few hours, but then you have the large % of the population who maybe changed their mower's oil 5 years ago
> 
> If they're supplying normal oil in the included bottle of oil, then there's nothing special about it, and no reason to leave that particular oil in there for a certain amount of time, IMO. As long as you were replacing it with regular (dino) oil, I think you could probably change it after an hour or two, if you'd prefer. Though it might be good to


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## toms (Nov 17, 2017)

Try putting some oil in a small glass jar then hold it up to the sun. It took 3 oil changes in my Simplicity with the Briggs Pro Snow Engine for the oil to lose its metallic look in the sun. I have been using the Briggs 5w30 Full Synthetic oil I found at Tractor Supply.


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## stromr (Jul 20, 2016)

toms said:


> Try putting some oil in a small glass jar then hold it up to the sun. It took 3 oil changes in my Simplicity with the Briggs Pro Snow Engine for the oil to lose its metallic look in the sun. I have been using the Briggs 5w30 Full Synthetic oil I found at Tractor Supply.


I do this regularly, let it sit for awhile and look at all the sediment in the bottom. Also you can send a sample off for testing to:

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/oil-analysis-services/

Oil Analysis: A Blood Test for Your Engine


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