# New Owner HS928 maintenance questions



## hank (Nov 25, 2013)

(This is the tracked model.) Bought new. Local area dealer does good business and has solid reputation. But, when the tech guy set it up he put in 10W30 oil. I mentioned to him that every blower I've owned before called for 5W30 and showed him Honda's (same) rec. He said they only stocked 10W30 which went into all the equipment they serviced and felt it was OK - No problem - since I can run it a few times as is and than change over to 5W30 when I dump the break in oil after maybe 10-15 hours. Now, the manual shows a need to replace the "sealing washer" when you change oil. Dealer's 25 miles away - assuming he stocks these. Just wondered if it's really necessary to use brand new washer every time? On the hydro tranny, the guy insists the fluid needs a complete change out once a year. But, I see nothing in the manual to that effect. Anybody here that changes that annually? Also wondering if I was supposed to get a tool kit with this thing - as the manual shows one? I did fork over $20 out of pocket for a few sheer pins and bolts - as I know they can break. Got a really good deal and love the machine - so don't want to slam the dealer. Just want to do what's best for this machine. Thanks for any insights.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I agree that anything I have ever seen was 5w30 at most. That being said, 10w30 is probably fine unless you live somewhere really cold.

Honda says the hydro fluid is good for the life of the unit unless it gets contaminated.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/4322-hs828-hydro-fluid-change.html

Sealing washer is one of those things that can most likely be reused (an most people do), but is recommended to be changed (and some people do) every time you remove the drain plug. Just look up any thread on changing the engine oil in a car and there will be lots of arguments going both ways about replacing the crush washers.


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## hank (Nov 25, 2013)

Thanks Shryp. I feel a little better that if the washers aren't available next time I'm near the dealer, I can probably get by without. Thanks for the link to [email protected] which I've saved. A tremendous amount of info in that thread. The more I learn about this unit, the more inclined I am to perform most of the maintenance myself. (PS - Dealer assured me there are no zerk fittings to hit - just linkages and stuff like that to lube.)


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The one thing to watch out is going to be making sure the augers don't get fused to the auger shaft with rust. That will bypass your shear pins and be very bad for your gear box if that happens. New machines should be fine, but in a few years it could be a problem. I think the only way to get grease in a Honda is to remove the augers. Luckily Honda made the input shaft of the gearbox splined so it comes apart pretty easy. Other makes require remove of the impeller and the pulley behind the impeller as well. On the other hand, some other manufactures put grease fittings on the augers so they don't need to be removed. I have heard people say antiseize works better than grease and lasts a lot longer.

Here is an example of what can happen.
http://www.opeonthenet.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8906


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## seaox (Nov 1, 2013)

Sharp & Hank: I have a Honda/Auger/Auger Shaft related issue. I have a Honda HS80 I am told it is probably 20 years old. One to the augers seems to be rusted to the stainless steel auger shaft. I removed the sheer pins with penetrating oil, heat, more oil, punch & hammer. First auger slid off shaft after a few hours effort. Shaft dry & light surface rust, very mild minimal pitting. Second auger wont budge. Now after 5 days of penetrant with 10 minutes tapping with hammer during penetrant application to induce it to move along shaft & repeated heatings with a propane turbotorch. I was considering really heating the auger up & trying to rotate/twist the augar with a pipe wrench but I don't want to damage the gear box. I bought the shop manual but the illustration does not clearly show whether the auger shaft is one piece. If it is one piece I could put a pipe wrench on the shaft to hold in place while twisting the auger in the other direction. Or should I be opening up the auger gear box and pulling the whole shaft out & then inserting into a pipe to hammer auger off? Any other ideas. Thank you. Al


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

seaox said:


> Sharp & Hank: I have a Honda/Auger/Auger Shaft related issue. I have a Honda HS80 I am told it is probably 20 years old. One to the augers seems to be rusted to the stainless steel auger shaft. I removed the sheer pins with penetrating oil, heat, more oil, punch & hammer. First auger slid off shaft after a few hours effort. Shaft dry & light surface rust, very mild minimal pitting. Second auger wont budge. Now after 5 days of penetrant with 10 minutes tapping with hammer during penetrant application to induce it to move along shaft & repeated heatings with a propane turbotorch. I was considering really heating the auger up & trying to rotate/twist the augar with a pipe wrench but I don't want to damage the gear box. I bought the shop manual but the illustration does not clearly show whether the auger shaft is one piece. If it is one piece I could put a pipe wrench on the shaft to hold in place while twisting the auger in the other direction. Or should I be opening up the auger gear box and pulling the whole shaft out & then inserting into a pipe to hammer auger off? Any other ideas. Thank you. Al


Every snowblower I have ever seen has a single shaft running through both augers. See this thread for some other ideas.
- View topic - breaking rusted rakes loose..


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

seaox,

Been there. Done that with my HS80!

One auger off, one that would not come off no matter what (spent two weeks on that thing throwing everything but the kitchen sink at it...PB Blaster, propane, MAP, 3ft breaker bar on a monkey wrench...). 

Ended up taking the shaft and stuck auger to my step fathers who has an oxy acetylene torch. Heated up the stuck auger and shaft to near red hot, put a nut on the very end of the shaft to pound on...took us 5 minutes to free the thing up... YUP...5 FRICKIN MINUTES...AHHHHH!!!!!

Stop the insanity.... Save yourself hours of headache...dismantle the gearbox and take the shaft and stuck auger to someone who has the right tool and you will be done in no time...beg, borrow, or steal if you have to...


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

seaox,

One thing to keep in mind, you may want to consider replacing your shaft oil seals after this whole process (and maybe the bearings if there is any play). They can get damaged in this whole process...


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## Piedmont (Nov 13, 2013)

Congrats on the purchase of an HS928. Here are my thoughts.

For the oil, I don't know if you're an expert or not. Keeping the 10w30 is okay for the break in. When doing the new oil after the break in (be sure to replace it when break-in is over it typically has metal debris in it you don't want it in for long) try to look for ones with the API symbol, your manual says use SJ or SL (or newer). With oil the letter AFTER the S increases for newer, and newer is better (better characteristics). SL is newer than SJ and better. SM is newer (and better) than SL. Today SN is the specification of the newest oil and so much better than SJ or SL, and much better than SM try not to consider using anything else especially since your machine is so new and may still have break-in debris. That is, get yourself some 5W30 oil that's SN certified (it may say GF-5 as well). 

As others have pointed out, I know of at least two HS928's locally that had the auger rust onto the shaft so the shear pins didn't work and they blew something. In one case it was the gear case, the other the auger shaft bent. Every year be sure to undo the shear pins and possibly the shear pin holder and lube the auger(s) and make sure they spin freely. 

Touch-up paint is part 08707-R8 Honda. Be sure you try it first, maybe the color has changed!

I don't see anywhere in the manual one should change the hydrostatic fluid. I wouldn't do it, and I think back to when I flushed the transmission fluid in my Dodge Durango it never worked right again. 

I don't know if the tracked model has the lever on the bottom for releasing the transmission. Read the manual, it says you should never change that lever with the engine on nor have it in released status while the engine is running. 

It comes with the tool kit. You should require it, makes it real easy to get the spark plug out AND it includes shear bolts. Don't use the wrenches in that kit they're not designed well and too soft. I've only used the wrenches about 12 times and had them slip on 2 bolts slipping their heads. Use a ratchet. 

By the way if you're curious... 
*HS* stands for Honda Snowblower. 
*928* means 9HP 28" wide. 1132 stands for 11HP 32" wide
*T* stands for Tracked
*W* stands for Wheeled
*C* stands for Canadian (Has a cold weather kit installed the American model did not. Today they both have it, older American models can be retrofitted with the kit for about $85).
*A* stands for American
*S* stands for Starter
*D* is Deluxe (only available in Canada, it is the highest end model. Battery turnkey, full electric chute control, hydraulic up/down, separate track controls for steering, and the feature I believe that makes it illegal in America is cruise control (I don't know what it's called actually) you set the forward speed, engage the auger, and sit down and watch it go down your driveway by itself... course you better go run after it when it gets to the end!) So if someone says they have a HS928 WAS they have a Honda SnowBlower, 9HP, 28" wide, Wheeled, American version, with a Starter (electric).

One benefit of the tracked version, when changing the oil you don't have to remove the track. That's right, to change the oil with the wheeled version you actually have to remove the wheel (unless you want a mess or use that siphon tool to suck the oil out of the fill cap instead). 

Good luck, you're going to love it!


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## hank (Nov 25, 2013)

Appreciate all the great info. I'm gathering auger needs only that ONE sheer bolt pulled to be released and pulled off. Will definitely add that to my off-season maintenance. Called dealer and he has the tool kit. Also, I'll be getting the 10-30 out mid winter. Will likely go synthetic 5-30 than. They don't have any hydro fluid in the shop (amazing), but will order some - just to have on hand. I can do basic maintenance - but garage isn't heated, so I wouldn't attempt anything much more complicated than an oil change during cold season. No electric start - but the HS928 cranks easily, even with the heavier oil. By chance, winter hit our part of Michigan a full month early this year & have already run the blower twice - pretty amazing to be able to use so soon after purchase. 

It's a fine machine. At mid-height adjustment I can clear our gravel drive (even with the warm ground underneath) and pick up essentially no stones. I've owned 4 previous new blowers, some tracked, most wheeled, over the past 35 years. Every one of them developed problems with the friction drive. Have read some lively online discussions about that - so don't want to add to the heat. For some they appear to work well. I'm thinking the combination of heavy use coupled with cold storage in the unheated garage probably contributed. Thanks again for all the advice.


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