# Troy-Bilt model 42010: home made heated handles



## JimsTroyBilt

I wanted to share my innovative option for heating the grips on my snowblower. I own a circa 1995 Troy-Bilt model 42010. The handles haven't worked in about 10 years. Many of you may already know that the OEM ceramic elements are not available anymore. I found something that works great and with the existing wiring. Here's some pictures and I'll be happy to pass my install process to anyone interested. The cost ?? only $22.00 for two. Check it out.....:grin:


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## Sid

Like to see it.
Sid


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## RIT333

Way too hot. You'll be able to make some coffee while you're snow blowing.


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## JimsTroyBilt

You gotta admit, it's pretty ingenious......I do agree it's hot, but it radiates inside the handles. Just the element gets too hot to touch. You don't feel the full impact of the heat on the metal. When I initially installed them, it was about 50 deg, and I had no issues holding the bare metal handles at all. Plus when it's snowing and cold, and thru the rubber grips the temp will equal out. Also they only get that hot when it's at full throttle. The true test will be this winter......first winter with this set-up. I'll keep you all posted. :hope:


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## RIT333

So the coffee will be luke-warm ! LOL


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## 98234

Impressive...most impressive.


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## jonnied12

What are they?


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## JimsTroyBilt

01624.0-03 - Stego - Enclosure Heaters | Galco Industrial Electronics
Heres he site I purchased it from. If the link doesn't open up, just copy and paste it in your browser. They are called Enclosure Heaters. The specs work perfectly with the voltage from my machine. I used the original wires that went to the OEM warmers. I don't know exactly what they are made for, but it works for my application. Now us old model Troy-Bilt owners can have our hands warmed while we work.

:nerd:


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## db130

Jim, do they come with the mounting clips? Your Troy-bilt is a descendant of the Bolens 824A/824B (which several of us here own). Also, how did you manage to remove the handlebar grips without destroying them?


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## JimsTroyBilt

db130 said:


> Jim, do they come with the mounting clips? Your Troy-bilt is a descendant of the Bolens 824A/824B (which several of us here own). Also, how did you manage to remove the handlebar grips without destroying them?


I used a heat gun to soften the rubber grips. An ordinary hand held hair dryer will work as well (they don't get as hot as a heat gun). Be careful not to burn them. Just enough heat around the entire grips makes the rubber elastic to the point that you can force a screw driver between the grip and metal bar. Force the screw driver all around the inside of the grip as you heat it to stretch the rubber all over. Again careful not to tear the rubber. As the rubber stretches enough you need to grab the end of the grip while trying to twist and pull. I've had mine off several times over the years with no issue. Patience is your best friend....and yes they come with 'C' clips shown on my original post. I riveted the clips directly to the bottom side of the handle bar.
Good Luck


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## KOBO

FWIW, I believe these ceramic resistors are similar to the ones used in the old Bolens hand warmers; the numbers match those on mine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-2...269079?hash=item569386bf97:g:IycAAOSwy5BZmntc

K


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## JLawrence08648

I recommend using a Phillips head screw driver when doing this or something else with a round end as not to puncture the grips.



JimsTroyBilt said:


> I used a heat gun to soften the rubber grips. An ordinary hand held hair dryer will work as well (they don't get as hot as a heat gun). Be careful not to burn them. Just enough heat around the entire grips makes the rubber elastic to the point that you can force a screw driver between the grip and metal bar. Force the screw driver all around the inside of the grip as you heat it to stretch the rubber all over. Again careful not to tear the rubber. As the rubber stretches enough you need to grab the end of the grip while trying to twist and pull. I've had mine off several times over the years with no issue. Patience is your best friend....and yes they come with 'C' clips shown on my original post. I riveted the clips directly to the bottom side of the handle bar.
> Good Luck


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## Kiss4aFrog

KOBO said:


> FWIW, I believe these ceramic resistors are similar to the ones used in the old Bolens hand warmers; the numbers match those on mine.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-2...269079?hash=item569386bf97:g:IycAAOSwy5BZmntc K


I can't say it's right or wrong but at 20 watts per resistor I would think most stock systems wouldn't be able to run those.

.


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## db130

I can't speak for the charging system of the Troybilt 42010 but the Bolens' stator+flywheel combo was pretty beefy, like 7 amps, in order to power both a headlight and heated grips at the same time.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I did more research and on the engines that have a headlight and hand warmer circuit they appear to put out 40 watts on the warmers and 20 for the headlight.

.


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## coastie56

Way to go Jim very cool,er...hot! Funny thing after my stent this winter I have better blood flow so I forgot to turn on my heaters twice, finally after the third storm I remembered to turn them on on my new 2840 but forgot to take off my cloves to check the durn thing. Guess I need more flow to my noggin! At any rate there' s a 50/50 chance they will work next year...


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## KOBO

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I can't say it's right or wrong but at 20 watts per resistor I would think most stock systems wouldn't be able to run those..




Greetings, Kiss4aFrog. As db130 noted, the Bolens were able to handle the load. Mine had the hand warmers, using ceramic resistors such as I linked to above grounded to the handle bars and a incandescent light, which I later changed to two, and it worked very well. 

Attached images are of the model number on the engines shroud, perhaps someone more knowledgeable than I can decipher it and determine what it had for a stator, as well as what my machine, a 1986 824, looked like back in its day with the two lights. 

K


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## Terry Qlymchuk

Thanks for this Post! Great ideas and inspiration after realizing the OEM heater part hasn't been available for years.
I had the similar problem with one of my handlebar heaters crapping-out on me late last winter.
I just replaced it with a ceramic 25W resistor and it's working pretty good.
My left handle bar heater is still the original and it's noticeably warmer after running for about 10+min in -5C temp.
But the 25W resistor will at least keep the handle warmer than NO heater.
If I find it's not giving off enough heat when it gets below -15/-20C in my area (which is half my winter!), I may choose to replace it with a larger power rated resistor.
I took the original one in to an electronic shop in my town and the 25W was the closest that he could match for me, and not knowing what the original spec was, I figured I'd give it a try for under $15. There was no markings at all on the original.


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