# 10-30e Drive issues



## jpilk99

Hi all,

I have a solid condition 10-30e (runs great, throws snow great, etc.), but the drive is very frustrating. I'm curious if anyone else has had the following:

Put the machine in 'gear', 1st or 2nd forward and engage the drive lever. Nothing. Lift the rear of the machine off the ground and the wheels fly in the forward direction. Put it back down, nothing. Give it a shove with your mid section and it bucks and "catches" and starts moving.

Same in reverse.

I put in a new drive belt and not change.

If my friction wheel were worn out, why would it drive the wheels so well whilst held up off the ground? And why does it seem to 'buck' when on the ground in gear? Again, if the friction wheel were worn, I would think it would just ...slip. Not grab for a split second and then nothing.

I've inspected the friction wheel and the 'plate' is drives off of. Both seem in good condition. However, on the rubber friction wheel I can feel a couple of flat spots.

I wish I could see what's going on down there when trying to drive. I've pulled the plastic belt cover off and watched to confirm that when I engage the drive - the drive belt grabs and spins as it should; not slipping on the pulley.

I actually scratched up the surface of the drive 'plate', hoping this would give the friction wheel a better/rougher surface to grab onto. I cleaned the friction wheel surface all the way around with alcohol. 

Maybe the drive plate isn't coming up high enough to meet the friction wheel? Maybe I need a new wheel? And a drive 'plate'?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Online service manual would be fantastic - I've been surprised to find so little. I do have the owners manual, but, it's not much help.

Thank you,

Jay


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## Pathfinder13

Hi Jay, I'm thinking  you must have a tension issue with the friction wheel ( spring or adjustment) , or a worn friction wheel rubber. 

That's my guess, I'm leaning towards the spring either being hooked up wrong or worn but others may have more suggestions for things to check as I only see friction wheels when I work on a friends machine (every couple years) and my machine has a tranny.


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## jpilk99

Thanks Pathfinder.

Interesting/ironic; I used to have Powershifts with the tranny. I miss them. Although, with those, I used to have to work on the carb almost every time I went out.

These friction wheel setups are ...odd. I'm told they're somewhat the norm, but, for the life of me I can't understand them. When the machine gets a little stuck - or can't easily move forward, like when you run into a big/heavy pile of snow or you get caught on a chunk of ice..., then the friction wheel must just spin & wear down. Quickly. As well, it's not hermetically sealed in there and if a little bit of snow, or water, gets in there, or if there's a layer of moisture ....you ain't going anywhere. Strange.

But, be that as it is - the machine/it's engine (Tecumseh Snow King) runs phenomenally. Almost first pull everytime! So, I definitely want to figure out this "drive" thing. I am thinking it's not a tension issue with the drive wheel. I took off the plastic cover so I can see the belts. When I engage the drive, the drive belt spins as it should and it does not slip on the pulley. I could be wrong, but, I'm thinking that is working as it should. When I release the drive lever, the belt stops spinning, as it should. 

Since I can't see the friction wheel when engaged, I guess I should just replace it and see how things go. They look like they're around $60. Is the replacement as straightforward as it looks? Disconnect the left side of the axle that the friction wheel is on, undo the three bolts hold the wheel in place, remove the left half of the axle and then slid the old wheel out & put new one in?

Does the "plate" that the friction wheel touches when the drive is engaged, do those ever wear out? I can't think so - it's metal. Mine has a little surface rust in one spot, but, I actually think that would help give the friction wheel traction...

Thanks so much! I appreciate the help.

Jay


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## Kiss4aFrog

If you can feel flat spots on the friction wheel then it needs to be replaced.

But you also need to find out why you have flat spots. Tension between the two discs is the likely cause but so could trying to muscle it through something that puts so much stress on the machine that the wheels stop. If the wheels stop then you either have a slipping belt and or a slipping friction wheel. Either case is bad for the machine and will eat belts and or discs.

Not much can go wrong with the driving disc as long as you don't run it with a damaged friction disc. This is how I received my hand me down Troy 2410


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## NorthMaine

Does it have a clutch which allows the wheels to spin independently of each other? I am having similar problems where my "easy steer" clutch isn't engaging properly and the tires spin when off the ground, but with the weight of the machine they wont. Disc isn't slipping or anything, the clutch just isn't engaging. After a few minutes it comes out of it and is fine.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Husquvarna 1030e

That's possible as is something like a worn bushing causing excessive friction but since the OP is mentioning that there are flat spots on the friction disc it sounds like the problem might be in that area.


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## jpilk99

Hi NorthMaine,

No clutch for variable wheel drive - just a securing pin in the axle at the wheel if you want "posi" or single wheel drive. On or off .

Jay


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## jpilk99

Kiss4aFrog,

That's a horrible picture! Ouch. 

When you say, "Tension between the two discs is the likely cause", do you mean - when the wheels stop, ergo the friction wheel stops - yet the drive plate keeps spinning, so the drive plate essentially sands down/wears down the spot on the friction wheel? Disconnect the left side of the axle that the friction wheel is on, undo the three bolts hold the wheel in place, remove the left half of the axle and then slid the old wheel out & put new one in?

Thanks again.

Makes sense to me. I just don't know how people snowblow and not have the machine stop occasionally due to the same factors I'm experiencing; a big snow drift/pile or a chunk of ice on the ground that brings the machine to a halt. Now, if I were a smarter monnnnn, I'd immediately disengage the drive lever, pull back, and try a different tact. But, I'm a moron, a 6'4" 230lb moron, who figures I can muscle the machine up & around whatever impediment arises. We've had so much snow here in Bolton Mass that it's been a workout and a half to get the driveway cleared. (I think I'm making excuses). I'll get a new friction wheel and try to take it easier on my snowblowing.

Is the process to change the friction wheel as I estimated:


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## NorthMaine

Changing the wheel shouldn't be a problem. Sounds like you have a good grasp on it. As you start to take it apart, you will figure it out.


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## Kiss4aFrog

jpilk99 said:


> Kiss4aFrog,
> 
> That's a horrible picture! Ouch. :


It was free (thanks a lot ). Worst part is it could have been fixed under warranty but they drove it like that for two years.


Yup, when the engines running and you have the drive handle down either the belt or the friction disc is slipping if the wheels aren't turning. That's why I think your problem is tension on the disc since you have some flat spots but I'd go through all the adjustments and just give it a through inspection and lube what you can since you'll be in there.

My machines will stop if run into something big/sold enough if I'm going too fast but the wheels continue to spin and it keeps trying to eat through. If yours is physically stopping and the wheels are too then something is wrong in your drive system. You also need to let off the drive lever if that happens right away to keep from getting those flat spots. Just like the old days without anti lock braking. Once good panic stop at freeway speeds and you have four thumping tires where the road ate the rubber off that one spot.
Unless something breaks in your drive it's the belt and or the friction disc that's going to slip and burn if the engines running and you have that handle down and the wheels stop spinning 

Average guy, average tools the friction disc isn't that hard to do. Remember how it's in there as it's possible to put them in backwards if you aren't paying attention or you're in a hurry !! I hate when that happens. You'll know right away as now you have two forward gears and six reverse.
Pictures on the camera phone are priceless when you're holding something and wondering where it came from and how it goes back. 

There are a bunch of youtube videos on how to on friction wheels and Donneyboy has some of the best on anything snowblower. https://www.youtube.com/user/DonneyBoy


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## UNDERTAKER

jpilk99 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a solid condition 10-30e (runs great, throws snow great, etc.), but the drive is very frustrating. I'm curious if anyone else has had the following:
> 
> Put the machine in 'gear', 1st or 2nd forward and engage the drive lever. Nothing. Lift the rear of the machine off the ground and the wheels fly in the forward direction. Put it back down, nothing. Give it a shove with your mid section and it bucks and "catches" and starts moving.
> 
> Same in reverse.
> 
> I put in a new drive belt and not change.
> 
> If my friction wheel were worn out, why would it drive the wheels so well whilst held up off the ground? And why does it seem to 'buck' when on the ground in gear? Again, if the friction wheel were worn, I would think it would just ...slip. Not grab for a split second and then nothing.
> 
> I've inspected the friction wheel and the 'plate' is drives off of. Both seem in good condition. However, on the rubber friction wheel I can feel a couple of flat spots.
> 
> I wish I could see what's going on down there when trying to drive. I've pulled the plastic belt cover off and watched to confirm that when I engage the drive - the drive belt grabs and spins as it should; not slipping on the pulley.
> 
> I actually scratched up the surface of the drive 'plate', hoping this would give the friction wheel a better/rougher surface to grab onto. I cleaned the friction wheel surface all the way around with alcohol.
> 
> Maybe the drive plate isn't coming up high enough to meet the friction wheel? Maybe I need a new wheel? And a drive 'plate'?
> 
> Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Online service manual would be fantastic - I've been surprised to find so little. I do have the owners manual, but, it's not much help.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Jay


 it seems like you have drive problems with every blower you get.


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## jpilk99

Powershift. You BASTID .

Yes, I certainly do. I buy used ones and am obviously not as talented in assessing them "pre-purchase" as I thought I was.

Good to hear from you - I hope all's well.

Kiss4aFrog, does those Youtube vids show how to adjust the tension? I think I'll be okay once I get a new friction wheel, but, I don't think I've ever adjusted the tension.

Thanks again all!!!!! 

PS. When I go plunk down th $61 for a new Friction Wheel, you can bet there won't be another snowflake to fly!


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## UNDERTAKER

jpilk99 said:


> Powershift. You BASTID .
> 
> Yes, I certainly do. I buy used ones and am obviously not as talented in assessing them "pre-purchase" as I thought I was.
> 
> Good to hear from you - I hope all's well.
> 
> Kiss4aFrog, does those Youtube vids show how to adjust the tension? I think I'll be okay once I get a new friction wheel, but, I don't think I've ever adjusted the tension.
> 
> Thanks again all!!!!!
> 
> PS. When I go plunk down th $61 for a new Friction Wheel, you can bet there won't be another snowflake to fly!


 STILL LIVING the DREAM here in SNOW LAND.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I don't think it's on the video as the exact adjustment will vary from make to make and model to model. Usually where the cable pulls a spring they will give you a specific distance it should stretch (my Troy) or it might just say to have an air gap between the friction wheel and drive plate and not be specific (my Estate). It would be in the operators and service manuals.
Try to find and follow the instructions for your Husky.


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## jpilk99

Thanks guys! 

Mahalo PowerMan.


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## Pathfinder13

jpilk99 said:


> Kiss4aFrog,
> 
> That's a horrible picture! Ouch.
> 
> When you say, "Tension between the two discs is the likely cause", do you mean - when the wheels stop, ergo the friction wheel stops - yet the drive plate keeps spinning, so the drive plate essentially sands down/wears down the spot on the friction wheel? Disconnect the left side of the axle that the friction wheel is on, undo the three bolts hold the wheel in place, remove the left half of the axle and then slid the old wheel out & put new one in?
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Makes sense to me. I just don't know how people snowblow and not have the machine stop occasionally due to the same factors I'm experiencing; a big snow drift/pile or a chunk of ice on the ground that brings the machine to a halt. Now, if I were a smarter monnnnn, I'd immediately disengage the drive lever, pull back, and try a different tact. But, I'm a moron, a 6'4" 230lb moron, who figures I can muscle the machine up & around whatever impediment arises. We've had so much snow here in Bolton Mass that it's been a workout and a half to get the driveway cleared. (I think I'm making excuses). I'll get a new friction wheel and try to take it easier on my snowblowing.
> 
> Is the process to change the friction wheel as I estimated:


I did a friction wheel/rubber replacement and the part was 22 bucks at a local Simplicity/Toro dealer so I don't think you are in for too much of an expense and it was also not a hard job at all. It did help to have a vice, took the whole shaft out, and used carboard in the vice jaws over the hex shaft to protect it, and unbolted the disc, bolted on the new one, and reinstalled. Was pretty painless. It was my buddy's 2000 Simplicity 860. 

Donyboy73 has a YouTube video on those I'm pretty sure.


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## jpilk99

Thanks all,

I'm just bumming that I can't see how to get the shaft out that the friction wheel sits on. I unbolted the wheel from the anchor on the shaft. Removed a "c" clip at one end of the shaft, but, it doesn't want to come out.

Do I need to unbolt the bearings/whatever is at both ends? I wish I had a service manual. Any ideas?

Thank you,

Jay


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## Kiss4aFrog

Can you post a picture or two of yours ??


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## UNDERTAKER

jpilk99 said:


> Thanks all,
> 
> I'm just bumming that I can't see how to get the shaft out that the friction wheel sits on. I unbolted the wheel from the anchor on the shaft. Removed a "c" clip at one end of the shaft, but, it doesn't want to come out.
> 
> Do I need to unbolt the bearings/whatever is at both ends? I wish I had a service manual. Any ideas?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Jay


 YEAH WE want PICS.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Usually they are pretty simply but I did run across a post from a guy with a Simplicity who needed to pull the whole assembly out to be able to remove the friction disc because of how the shaft was mounted.


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## jpilk99

Okay, trying drop box for pics:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/aei3tja52le1hm7/IMG_7248.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ivhgbxmi4hz960/IMG_7246.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wfknjg52805u8td/IMG_7247.JPG?dl=0


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## jpilk99

How do you get to upload an actual image file like you guys?

I was at the tractor place today buying the new friction wheel and got one of the mechanics to chat. He said to undo the bolts on the outside of the housing; at the ends of the axle and that should allow me to pull it out enough to take off the old wheel (which is already unbolted in these pics/ don't think it's just askew like that). I already removed a C-clip from the right end of the axle. -


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## UNDERTAKER

With the paper clip thing. you take it from the pics on your computer. I think you will have to undo that alum gear case. bet you wish you kept that POWERSHIFT now and just put a engine on it HUH??????????


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## jpilk99

Don't you start with me ShiftyPower93! Don you start!!! 

Here's a vid too: 



 
And I used my iphone, it takes decent pics.

Yeah, I must need to take off a lot more to get that friction wheel hex-shaft out, or moved enough to swap friction wheels. It always boggles me though, unless I'm missing something, that SO MUCH WORK has to be done to swap a part that likely will need frequent replacement. To that point, the owners guide for this machine says, to swap drive belts, you basically have to undo the entire front half of the machine (where the snow gets chewed up by the augers and spit out). You kidding me?? Just to swap a belt - which is likely to be done every few seasons?? Luckily I did it without taking the front half of the machine off.

I hear ya, though, PowerSHIFT on that aluminum gear case. "Undo", try remove. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. I just want a machine that works, and yes I do miss the PowerShift I had. 

Thank you!

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

YOU are going to have to polish up those shafts in order to walk off that alum thingy. there might be seals in there. I am guessing on that 1.


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## UNDERTAKER

looks like you are about to become a proud parent of a removal of that whole drive system.


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## jpilk99

Thanks Mahalo man.

Does that make sense though, (NO disrespect), to have to take out the whole drive system to replace a ..."wearable" part like the friction wheel. Seems pretty foolish - but then again, how smart am I!

I saw a Youtube video of the same procedure with an Ariens and the bearing holder at the ends of the shaft were separate/individual vs. how Husqy did it where it's one long/tall alloy part that secures the ends of three shafts; the friction wheel, the wheel axle, and another that supports the drive. That's why I would, to do it properly, need to take out the whole flipping drive system.

But, being the moron I am, I'm going to take a dremel and cut that long/tall alloy part in two; separating the bottom part that holds the wheel axle & other thing from the hex-shaft that the friction wheel is on. Once I do that, I'll be able to slide the hex-shaft out enough to easily swap the friction wheel. Then, I'll drill two holes in the upper and lower half of that long/tall alloy bracket and secure both to the frame ...and hope like **** it works. I think it will.

Stay tuned. And thanks. Snow coming tonight.

Jay


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## UNDERTAKER

I was doing some DEEP thinking earlier today. and came up with this. I saw a bunch of rust on that one side. and it looks like it has made it all the way up into those bearing races. which in turn would wallow out that area. throwing every thing out of whack. and weakening the whole structure of the drive system. I am just throwing that out for the masses here.


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## jpilk99

Thanks Power.

I agree, it looks crappy from the pics, but, the bearings are seated firmly (despite the look of rust).

I cannot get my head around this - how to switch out a *&%^##% friction wheel that must need to be replaced a few times during a snowblowers life. How the *&^$% did Husqy build this without a straightforward process to replace? (And of course I'm probably missing something simple & obvious. But, I've rebuilt entire cars - I don't think I'm missing anything. 

I've unbolted the 'aluminum' chain case/gear cover on the left side --- no way that's coming out. The wheel shaft has iron retainers, not "c" clips, so that shaft ain't coming out. Can't see a way to take apart the aluminum case cover to allow either the wheel shaft or hex-shaft with the friction wheel on it out..........

I'm about to cut that allow bracket on the outside right, take off/away, the bearing on the right side of the hex-shaft, slide that shaft over enough to take the friction wheel out and put new one on. Then try to drill holes in the bracket to strengthen it's reattachment.

?????????????????????????????????????????? Very frustrating.


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## UNDERTAKER

Get me a pic of those retainers on the shaft. you can E-MAIL them to me if you want.


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## jpilk99

I just sent about 7 pics to the undertakers undertaker address


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## UNDERTAKER

GOT them. that cover is not coming loose?????????????


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## UNDERTAKER

on the right side that plate is what holds everything together. can you get that off.


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## Kiss4aFrog

If I missed it I apologize but can you post the full model number off the ID plate 

I could use a copy of those photos too.

From what I can see you took out a bolted in retainer from the left outside of the friction disc shaft. There would need to be another retainer, clip, keeper ... to keep the shaft from moving left.
Did you find a second retainer ??


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## Kiss4aFrog

Found a diagram finally.

http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1996_USen/HUSI1996_USen_I9600033_.pdf

Looks like that shaft should slide. Have you been applying some penetrating oil and trying to move it right ??


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## jpilk99

Thanks KissaFrog.

That manual looks close to mine, but, I believe mine's a '99 and the wheel shaft appears a little different. Here's apicture of the model info plate:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0w1binqsexp0ic3/IMG_7134.JPG?dl=0


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## jpilk99

And to answer your question: "From what I can see you took out a bolted in retainer from the left outside of the friction disc shaft. There would need to be another retainer, clip, keeper ... to keep the shaft from moving left.
Did you find a second retainer ?? "

I'm not sure what you mean. After hoisting the machine forward to rest on the auger housing, I sat down behind it. After opening the belly to look at the friction wheel, drive plate, etc., on the left is the gear/drive setup. I took off the c-clip on the hexshaft holding the friction wheel. Also took out the screws and one bolt holding the gear setup. On the right side, I took out all the screws holding the outer bracket in place and removed a c-clop on that (right) side of the hexshaft.

I cant take that bracket (right side) off. It could be because the bearings are ceased in place. But, it seems like the wheel shaft has a fixed lip (no c-clip) on it and that's keeping the bracket in place.

Even if I get that right side bracket off, the hex shaft doesn't seem to want to slide out of the gear/gearhousing to allow me to easily take out the old friction wheel and put in the new.

I'm totally befuddled here.


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## jpilk99

Oh, and Mr Frog, I posted 3 pictures (links to dropbox) earlier in this thread. Let me know if you don't see them. THANK YOU.


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## UNDERTAKER

after they are soaked in the earl. you got a bronze drift punch laying around????? do some tapping on that upper bearing shaft. and see if it moves.


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## cpchriste

Ignoring the disassy subtopic; do you know whether the shift mechanism is properly adjusted to engage in the indexing plate 531 00 26-04? Intermittent engagement would result in the symptoms you describe. The design is a clone of the Yamaha, you can find more info about it in that board.


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## jpilk99

5 days, penetrating oil, torch ....can't get the brackets off to simply change the friction wheel. Man, this is humbling.


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## UNDERTAKER

jpilk99 said:


> 5 days, penetrating oil, torch ....can't get the brackets off to simply change the friction wheel. Man, this is humbling.


 MAN you can not win, for losing there BUDDY!!!!!!!!!


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## jpilk99

Wow. Finally fixed it - replaced the friction wheel. What a BEAR of a job. Pulling bearings out of the ends of the axle that the friction wheel is bolted to is the key; but, that was the bulk of the trouble. Maybe I didn't have the right knowledge, maybe I didn't have the right tools, maybe other things, but, .......what a horrible design, for a part that is going to wear out, to make it that difficult to replace is mind numbing.

Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions. Mahalo!


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## UNDERTAKER

jpilk99 said:


> Wow. Finally fixed it - replaced the friction wheel. What a BEAR of a job. Pulling bearings out of the ends of the axle that the friction wheel is bolted to is the key; but, that was the bulk of the trouble. Maybe I didn't have the right knowledge, maybe I didn't have the right tools, maybe other things, but, .......what a horrible design, for a part that is going to wear out, to make it that difficult to replace is mind numbing.
> 
> Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions. Mahalo!


 AND WE will see you in the fall. THERE BUDDY!!!!!


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