# Repainting Older Snow Blowers



## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

i'm working on a 1963 Ariens 10ML60D, and some of it disassembled. The heavy steel of these older units are quite resistant to serious rusting. even the bare areas inside the bucket zone are solid were the metal is bare. however, i am at least considering making the exterior shine with new paint. are there any definitive threads of this on the site. not sure what are the best techniques and products. i'm sure everybody has there own ways, but i'm trying too filter out the best of each step. 

i will probably keep the interior of the bucket and drive train alone (really don't want to pull it all apart).


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

materials:

deglosser
metal sand paper
rust converter
brush on primer
top coat (brush or spray?)
painters tape


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Finish should be a spray. Chevy engine orange works quite well.
If you are just going to knock down some rust and wanted to go quick and dirty, brush on orange would be ok but from experience it really isn't the way to go. Even more so if you're taking the time to sand, use a converter and prime.

.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

when you consider the time involved , i would rather powder coat. I take my parts to be blasted and powder coated.
I still paint but it averages out to about $10 an hour. I make a lot more in shop doing services/repairs.

powder coat is like new and 10 times better than paint job.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

If you go the paint route, I second that Dupli-color DE 1620 is a close match.

Paint prep is the most time consuming part of the re paint and without good metal preparation you will not get a good quality or long lasting paint job.

Angle grinder with flap discs to knock down the rust to bare metal. Then fine finish sanding, good metal cleaner/degreaser, use a good metal oxide or self etching primer then several light coats of final paint colour.

It is a very time consuming and dirty job getting the metal ready for primer and paint, but necessary for a decent paint finish.

If you click on the 1968 Ariens in my signature there is a thread on restoring it.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Ziggy65 said:


> If you go the paint route, I second that Dupli-color DE 1620 is a close match.
> 
> Paint prep and is the most time consuming part of the re paint and without good metal preparation you will not get a good quality or long lasting paint job.
> 
> ...


its not a Gullwing!, just an old snowblower. the prep is very important, steps most want to skip and get right to the top coat. maybe some color matched oil primer, then top coat spray. i did pick up some farm equipmentment crane last time for the 2005 ariens. deglosser vs initial sanding?


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

farm equipment orange (why can't i edit my posts?)


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

here is powder coat


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## Crabba (Mar 17, 2021)

Ok so powder coat but what are we taking in money talk? Pretty sure I can clean up my rust ridden housing and auger for what's in my garage (free) and some cans of spray paint ($40ish). Don't get me wrong they look showroom but at what cost does that take? Just curious


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

orangputeh said:


> here is powder coat
> View attachment 177413


cost?


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

allis chalmers orange!


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## Elfiero (Apr 9, 2019)

rwh963 said:


> cost?


How much ya got?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

For painting I use Rustoleum 2X Paint and Primer. Excellent results. And then seal with Max22 2 stage. The total cost this way is almost the same as powder coating . My time is worth more than $5 an hour.

I did this Patriots Honda with paint. The augers were done with POR15. $180 a gallon.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Elfiero said:


> How much ya got?


its not about that, its about how much is it worth afterwards. maybe a $50 Ariens is worth $200 after a $500 powder coating vs worth $200 after a $50 rustoleum home effort.

i assume for powder coating you have to dismantle everything you want done, drop it at a shop, and then reassemble it. a home job you can just mask and spray what you want. 

its funny how people won't say how much things cost.


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## snow blows (Jan 9, 2016)

Hey Orangeputah are you the one in Truckee on Craigslist selling custom painted Hondas? I am a little south of you in Mi-Wuk.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

well if your plan on keeping it what does value matter? you should also take into consideration if you screw up any of the prep work you may have to spend that $50 all over again plus your labor and hope you did it right. i know it annoys me when i put the effort in to prep/paint something and have something go wrong and have to prep/paint it again or just say screw it and leave it as is.

i would say power coating and paint are the same as far as dismantling unless you want people to be able to tell you painted it. i know i occasionally see people selling machines that you can tell they painted while it was assembled. also if you leave it assembled to paint it also means you likely 1/2 ***ed the prep work and paint will likely start peeling when using it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

snow blows said:


> Hey Orangeputah are you the one in Truckee on Craigslist selling custom painted Hondas? I am a little south of you in Mi-Wuk.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

rwh963 said:


> its not about that, its about how much is it worth afterwards. maybe a $50 Ariens is worth $200 after a $500 powder coating vs worth $200 after a $50 rustoleum home effort.
> 
> i assume for powder coating you have to dismantle everything you want done, drop it at a shop, and then reassemble it. a home job you can just mask and spray what you want.
> 
> its funny how people won't say how much things cost.


cost is relative to you location. do your own homework and contact the powder coating shops in your area. your costs are probably much different from mine. every area of the country costs are different.

it's not like McDonalds.

geesus.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

rwh963 said:


> its not about that, its about how much is it worth afterwards. maybe a $50 Ariens is worth $200 after a $500 powder coating vs worth $200 after a $50 rustoleum home effort.
> 
> i assume for powder coating you have to dismantle everything you want done, drop it at a shop, and then reassemble it. a home job you can just mask and spray what you want.
> 
> its funny how people won't say how much things cost.


You are bang on about the value of old Ariens machines, most people will not pay up for them. You will probably never get your money back from a proper repaint or powder coating, especially if you factor in the amount of hours involved. Most people looking for a used machine are only concerned about how old it is and don't understand how well engineered and built these old work horses are. These are not good candidates to refurbish and flip for profit.

I really like and respect the quality of these old Ariens machines. They are well engineered and easy to work on and working on them for me is a hobby. I know I will never recoup my investment should I choose to sell them. However, after refurbishing the machine both mechanically and cosmetically, you will have one of the best built and reliable snow blowers made.

With regards to partially dismantling your 50 plus year old machine before painting, the answer is you should, unless you are just using it as a static display.
Most likely the auger and axle bushings and impeller bearing will need to be replaced. The internals of the tractor will either be rusty or built up with old grease and belt debris, needing a good cleaning and greasing. The carb, gas tank and fuel lines also may need attention.

If you don't want to put the time and money into proper metal prep and paint work or powder coating, you may want to just leave the original paint. With a good degreasing, rubbing compound and wax it may turn out not too bad?

I agree with crazywolfie, a half arsed paint job will not last and might not give you the results you expected.

Just my 2 cents, it is your machine to do with as you like. It is not a Gullwing, only a snow blower as you mentioned, and everyone has different opinions and standards.

Look forward to following your project, no matter what route you decide to take, good luck.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Did you try clicking on those three dots in the upper right corner of your post ? Should be a selection for "Edit" there.
> 
> 
> .


no, i'm used to there bring an edit option spelled out on the bottom. thx for the tip.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

orangputeh said:


> cost is relative to you location. do your own homework and contact the powder coating shops in your area. your costs are probably much different from mine. every area of the country costs are different.
> 
> it's not like McDonalds.
> 
> geesus.


I think people on here just want to get a ballpark figure on what powder coating would cost. I agree that they should call local powder coating shops for a more accurate estimate.

There is cheap spray paint out there and there is more costly spray paint (2K stuff). What color(s) you want may determine your decision, also. 

Some people just don't care what their machines look like, so they use Rustoleum and call it a day.

I take the extra step like you and use a two part clear.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> I think people on here just want to get a ballpark figure on what powder coating would cost. I agree that they should call local powder coating shops for a more accurate estimate.
> 
> There is cheap spray paint out there and there is more costly spray paint (2K stuff). What color(s) you want may determine your decision, also.
> 
> ...


i agree with thought on cost discussion. prices differ shop to shop, state to state. if i spent $1000 getting my blower powdered, i would just say so. that would give others something to compare to vs. DIY costs. maybe powder is $200, that would be good to know. i personally would not powder. i don't own $3000 blowers, i don't display my tools, i like to spend money on keeping things running well over looking good (though i do keep up appearances!).


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## Snoopy#1 (Mar 21, 2021)

Good read thanks


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## Crabba (Mar 17, 2021)

Here's the start of my touch up paint job. First pic is untouched. Bottom is cleaned, sanded, cleaned again and 2 coats of a rust neutralizer. Plan to follow with 2 coats of primer than top coat till good. Guessing 2-3 light coats. The worst part about all of it is dry time. Waiting is a pain in the...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Crabba said:


> View attachment 177659
> View attachment 177660
> 
> 
> Here's the start of my touch up paint job. First pic is untouched. Bottom is cleaned, sanded, cleaned again and 2 coats of a rust neutralizer. Plan to follow with 2 coats of primer than top coat till good. Guessing 2-3 light coats. The worst part about all of it is dry time. Waiting is a pain in the...


Looks like good work and that bucket should looks heavy duty. This was after about 4 hours so i know what you are up against.


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## Crabba (Mar 17, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> Looks like good work and that bucket should looks heavy duty. This was after about 4 hours so i know what you are up against.
> View attachment 177661


I could have used a better stand like yours! Lol. You definitely went more to bare metal than me. The neutralizer I used said on can directions to have some rust for it to do it's thing.??? So I got it to the looks good to me stage. Yours is looking mint too. So I'd assume you could just go with a bare primer then paint?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Crabba said:


> I could have used a better stand like yours! Lol. You definitely went more to bare metal than me. The neutralizer I used said on can directions to have some rust for it to do it's thing.??? So I got it to the looks good to me stage. Yours is looking mint too. So I'd assume you could just go with a bare primer then paint?


I use flap sanding disks on a grinder.and use Rustoleum 2X paint and primer gray. it goes out nice and thick with one coat but i usually put 2 coats. I do a lot of this so have like 6 grinders all with various grits flap disks. 

I usually powder coat the nice buckets but when I have to do a lot of welding and reshaping and have deep scratches I will just do it this way. It actually cost less to powder coat than doing all this prep work and paint if you factor in labor costs.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just my 2 cents ....

I usually do a complete dismantle, clean parts well, sanding rust spots, and wipe down with a rubbing alcohol to remove any contaminants..... next I give it a spray gray primer coat, and after dry, a spray glossy finish. Wear a mask, as inhaling spray paint is very dangerous. 

When doing an Ariens , I use the Allis Chalmers Orange by Rust-Oleum , which I get at Graingers.









Rust Preventative Spray Paint: Allis Chalmers Orange, 15 oz Net Wt, Gloss


Spray Paint, Allis Chalmers Orange, 15 oz.




www.grainger.com





Here are just a couple of my Ariens Restores before and after .... (This blower was a different orange, before I moved over to the more appropriate Allis Chalmers, which is a better original match, as seen in my Ariens Tiller, which I picked up for 25.00....  )

As you can see, a dismantle will give you the best results, but you can also carefully prep and tape off areas for paint, and will come out fine if done properly ......


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

@oneacer nice work. I'm the same way. I keep forgetting to take before pics.

This one is paint. ( from a 30 year old Honda HS80 )


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@orang,

Nice job .... Go Pats ... Red Sox starts tomorrow....


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

oneacer said:


> @orang,
> 
> Nice job .... Go Pats ... Red Sox starts tomorrow....


Do you use some kind of clear coat and if so what? I have used Max22 2 stage clear twice but the jury is out on longevity , peeling , discoloration etc.

always looking for better ways to seal a paint job at a reasonable cost.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I don't clear coat my small equipment, after the primer and the gloss finish , that is usually a great finish,.... but when I had my 1999 Durango wheel well flares off, I repainted them with a can of Dupli-Color matching paint, and did spray them with a 100% acrylic clear coat after, name brand is Crystal Coat.

Never really gave clear coat a thought for the small equipment, as I periodically try to wax it ..... But hey, I may consider it in the future, as I still have a can on the shelf....😊


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

oneacer said:


> I don't clear coat my small equipment, after the primer and the gloss finish , that is usually a great finish,.... but when I had my 1999 Durango wheel well flares off, I repainted them with a can of Dupli-Color matching paint, and did spray them with a 100% acrylic clear coat after, name brand is Crystal Coat.
> 
> Never really gave clear coat a thought for the small equipment, as I periodically try to wax it ..... But hey, I may consider it in the future, as I still have a can on the shelf....😊


Thanks for the advise. Will try some acrylic. Have used POR15 on the augers. Silver POR15 on that blue Honda above. Very pricey stuff.
Always trying new ideas to get the most perfect finish. The most challenging thing is painting the white Honda wheels and tryingto seal in the color since earlier projects had the paint wearing off from the crawler tracks.

last set I sealed with some ultraviolet resistant polyurethane. came out great but time will tell.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

On those track units, I like the way you have the wheel spindles in black ... I imagine the material itself is black, thus diminishing the ability to notice any wear marks.

You are surely the Honda master ... 

BTW, that Crystal Coat was what I now believe might have been applied on other parts of the front end of my Durango wear POR 15 was applied, now that you mention the POR 15. ... Tough getting old ...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

oneacer said:


> On those track units, I like the way you have the wheel spindles in black ... I imagine the material itself is black, thus diminishing the ability to notice any wear marks.
> 
> You are surely the Honda master ...
> 
> BTW, that Crystal Coat was what I now believe might have been applied on other parts of the front end of my Durango wear POR 15 was applied, now that you mention the POR 15. ... Tough getting old ...


I apply POR15 on the augers ( just special cases ) because it hardens rock hard and is slippery shiny. I sell most of my projects and hardly ever hear from the new owners so I guess they are happy. You only hear from the people who have an issue.

I'm even reaching out to a couple buyers to redo their wheels for free since I found a better method where the original paint was wearing off from rubbing on the tracks.


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## Crabba (Mar 17, 2021)

Getting there! Cold garage not helping dry time. That's been the biggest pain really. 24hrs between coats at a minimum. Trying not to have to fuel the garage up again till fall doesn't help


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Very nice job ... your doing it proper .. 

*Note:* on re-assembly, make sure that pulley/brake bracket is attached so there is movement, but no side angle slop ... and lube it, as it is a crucial pivot point, .... as you want proper pivotal movement, but no side slop when engaged, as it will amplify up at the pulley end and skew the pulley at the belt alignment.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

looks great @Crabba


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Crabba said:


> View attachment 177758
> View attachment 177759
> 
> 
> Getting there! Cold garage not helping dry time. That's been the biggest pain really. 24hrs between coats at a minimum. Trying not to have to fuel the garage up again till fall doesn't help


Looks great, your efforts have paid off.

Paint prep and painting requires an abundance of patience, especially in cooler weather.


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## Crabba (Mar 17, 2021)

oneacer said:


> Very nice job ... your doing it proper ..
> 
> *Note:* on re-assembly, make sure that pulley/brake bracket is attached so there is movement, but no side angle slop ... and lube it, as it is a crucial pivot point, .... as you want proper pivotal movement, but no side slop when engaged, as it will amplify up at the pulley end and skew the pulley at the belt alignment.


Thanks. Since we're talking brake. I ordered a new pad and rivets. Will I be able to do those rivets with a decent hand pop rivet gun? They look different to me then what I've worked with


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## Crabba (Mar 17, 2021)

Crabba said:


> Thanks. Since we're talking brake. I ordered a new pad and rivets. Will I be able to do those rivets with a decent hand pop rivet gun? They look different to me then what I've worked with


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