# 524 upgrade to 826



## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

I have a 1974 524 that was re-powered with a B&S engine by the previous owner. I am looking to upgrade to a more power model that can throw heavy, 10+" deep snow across a double-wide driveway. I found a similarly old 826 with the original tecumseh engine. 

Do you think this 826 is enough of an upgrade? Will it throw heavy, 10+" deep snow across a double-wide driveway?


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I spent some time working on a machine similar to the one you linked to on KSL. It had an updraft carburetor and was a bit finicky. I also had some significant time invested in the ignition interlock, especially with the switches in the handle bar levers. When it did run well it did move some serious snow. I have an older 724 that now has a Predator engine. It will throw the snow the distance you are looking for. Consider putting one of those on your current 524. Modern OHV Honda clone for the win.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> I have a 1974 524 that was re-powered with a B&S engine by the previous owner. I am looking to upgrade to a more power model that can throw heavy, 10+" deep snow across a double-wide driveway. I found a similarly old 826 with the original tecumseh engine.
> 
> Do you think this 826 is enough of an upgrade? Will it throw heavy, 10+" deep snow across a double-wide driveway?


* That 8HP BRIGGS Motor will have more than enough RASINS in it to get the job DONE!!!!!!!!!! It will dig you oot and dig you oot fast!!!!!!!!!!!! k:k:k:k:k:k:*


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

My 524 was not well cared for by the previous owner(s). I have done what I can to repair it without putting in too much $, but the final straw is the worn auger worm gear that to longer turns the augers. It's not worth it to replace the gear with all of the other issues the machine has.

In what way is the carburetor finicky? Anything particular I should check on the 826?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> My 524 was not well cared for by the previous owner(s). I have done what I can to repair it without putting in too much $, but the final straw is the worn auger worm gear that to longer turns the augers. It's not worth it to replace the gear with all of the other issues the machine has.
> 
> In what way is the carburetor finicky? Anything particular I should check on the 826?


* I have never had any problems with those BRIGGS Carbs. The only thing they don't like is water in the fuel. and that happens when the snow is dripping off of me while filling the tank in my Heated Garage. mg::emoticon-south-park*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> I have a 1974 524 that was re-powered with a B&S engine by the previous owner. I am looking to upgrade to a more power model that can throw heavy, 10+" deep snow across a double-wide driveway. I found a similarly old 826 with the original tecumseh engine.
> 
> Do you think this 826 is enough of an upgrade? Will it throw heavy, 10+" deep snow across a double-wide driveway?


 * If that was repowered with a BRIGGS Motor than it would either be a 7HP OR 8HP Engine. The 5-24's came stock from the little TORO Factory with those Gutless wonders of an engine only. and youse all know what I am referring to in that Dept. :icon_whistling:k:k:k:k:k:*


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> In what way is the carburetor finicky? Anything particular I should check on the 826?


It was a couple years ago now and probably something I was doing wrong due to my unfamiliarity with the older updraft style carb. The machine belonged to a friend of a friend. I remember discovering it being very sensitive to the amount of fuel in the tank. With the tank topped off it ran fine but before it even reached a half tank it was stumbling and not making power. I also remember it taking some time to make the correlation between the tank level and the way it ran. I'm sure it was probably just something I overlooked when I cleaned the carb but the owner got rid of it before I got a second shot at it.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

I was able to pick up the 826 for $100. It runs, but the carb needs a little work. Overall it's in good condition for the age. I've got a few months to rebuild the carb, lube, and tune it up.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> ]I found a similarly old 826 with the original Tecumseh engine.


I hope it works well for you. I love these old beast Toro's. Just to clarify, however, this is a Briggs on your new machine isn't it?


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Yes, it is a Briggs. I incorrectly assumed that it was a Tecumseh.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

This is all that is left of the Model/Serial Plate. Any ideas what the model # may be?


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I would want at least an 8 hp Tec....or Briggs....or 6.5 Honda or clone... to do the job of clearing snow...Briggs have more OOOMPH then Tecs....and sorry Todd...Honda clones kick ass in the torque and RPM war for really getting the job done. That said..in NE.. I haven't found any blower that wouldn't dig me out with a 8 hp Tec....a 7 hp Briggs or a 6.5 hp Clone....and even the 5 to 7 hp Tec's will do a lot of work. I'm a fan of breakerless ignition, so I shitcan all Tec's with points, convert my Briggs to breakerless, and repower all others with Predators.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Possibly a 31763?
You are only missing the first number of the serial, but that is the only one that really matters.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

One thing that would def get you a longer range of throwing is a taller chute, On the Craftsman blowers they have a smaller model with a steel chute and many others with a shorter plastic chute and I just put the metal taller one on and they throw so much better. Hopefully someone who has modded a toro with a taller chute will chime in.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

dbert said:


> Possibly a 31763?
> You are only missing the first number of the serial, but that is the only one that really matters.


That's what I am guessing, it looks closest to mine. None of the 826 snowthrowers on the Toro website are an exact match...


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Carb rebuild kit or new off-brand carb?


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## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

creeve4 said:


> Carb rebuild kit or new off-brand carb?


I can't comment on that exact carb, but the 2 cheap made in china $13 carbs I've used have been great!


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

gibbs296 said:


> I can't comment on that exact carb, but the 2 cheap made in china $13 carbs I've used have been great!


Do you remember the brands you've used?


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## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

632552 by Hooai and 6400848 by Hooai. Both were $12.99 on Amazon.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> That's what I am guessing, it looks closest to mine. None of the 826 snowthrowers on the Toro website are an exact match...


* All the parts are same from 1976-1987 on those 8-26's. It looks like yours is a 1982 model year. if you are going to rebuild the carb than use ONLY The BRIGGS CARB KIT. Part # 295938. as for the longer chute some 1 talked aboot here. they made a extension but I have never seen 1 around. but as long as you have the right belts on it. you really need not concern yourself on that 1. It will chuck it 30-35FT. MAZEL TOV on that 1 there. :wavetowel2:*


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

creeve4 said:


> That's what I am guessing, it looks closest to mine. None of the 826 snowthrowers on the Toro website are an exact match...


wrong, it is 38150


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

detdrbuzzard said:


> wrong, it is 38150


Thank you!


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

The 826 that I bought has an electric starter, but it is not working. How should I go about troubleshooting it?


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

I am trying to determine if the carb is 490140 or 391889. Most of the 38150's used a 391889 carb, but not all (according to the Toro parts catalog). Any pointers?

Where can I find the engine model # on my machine (I could use it to cross-reference the carb)?


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

creeve4 said:


> The 826 that I bought has an electric starter, but it is not working. How should I go about troubleshooting it?



First and easiest is to make sure that your wall outlet works, then the extension cord to the starter, then the push-button/relay *the rectangular box, and finally you will have to open up the starter to look for a defect inside - I believe it has carbon-brushes that could be worn, or the copper contacts on the armature might just need to be cleaned.


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

I noticed this label on the top of the engine, which refers to an "air cleaner". I'm assuming that this is just a generic label, but want to confirm that there is not an air cleaner on these snowblower engines and mine is missing. I'm not seeing anything in the engine parts diagrams.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

No,there is no air cleaner used on that engine.The vertical,square tube is all that is needed on the end of the carb and of course,the big shroud covers the whole area thus making a pre-heater for the carb air.


Those old Briggs blower engines were great.Had a 1970's Snapper with an 8 horse on it,best snowblower I ever used,hands down.Extremely rare units in my neck of the woods or I'd have another one.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> The 826 that I bought has an electric starter, but it is not working. How should I go about troubleshooting it?


* Those starter's are NOW NLA. if you have a repair shop that fixes them that would be the way to go. the stator inside is more than likely cracked.*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> I am trying to determine if the carb is 490140 or 391889. Most of the 38150's used a 391889 carb, but not all (according to the Toro parts catalog). Any pointers?
> 
> Where can I find the engine model # on my machine (I could use it to cross-reference the carb)?


 * 391889 is the 1.*


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Thanks for information guys!

The auger gearbox is mostly full (it is a little below the plug) of thick gray grease, is there any reason to clean it out and change the grease or to add more?

Does anyone know of a good source for replacement tires, I have one that has a slow leak.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> Thanks for information guys!
> 
> The auger gearbox is mostly full (it is a little below the plug) of thick gray grease, is there any reason to clean it out and change the grease or to add more?
> 
> Does anyone know of a good source for replacement tires, I have one that has a slow leak.


* I got some I am looking to part with!!!!!!!!!!!!*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* Tires and rims!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PM ME if you want them!!!!!!!!!!*


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

The B&S Manual for my engine (19402-0989) specifies a standard (B&S P/N 492167) or resistor (B&S P/N 802952) spark plug. The Toro website says P/N 293918. the 38150 Toro manual says Champion RCJ8 or Autolite AR7N. Each of the sources differ... which do I chose?

Edit: looks like all but the resistor style are equivalent. Man, spark plug numbering is a huge mess!!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> The B&S Manual for my engine (19402-0989) specifies a standard (B&S P/N 492167) or resistor (B&S P/N 802952) spark plug. The Toro website says P/N 293918. the 38150 Toro manual says Champion RCJ8 or Autolite AR7N. Each of the sources differ... which do I chose?


* NGK B2LM is what I use.*


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Drive V-belt (Toro P/N 17-6540); based on research I've done this is a 44" belt, correct? I don't need to pay an extra $10 for a Toro branded belt.

Edit: found this website, very helpful:
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/belts/toro_belts.asp


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> Drive V-belt (Toro P/N 17-6540); based on research I've done this is a 44" belt, correct? I don't need to pay an extra $10 for a Toro branded belt.
> 
> Edit: found this website, very helpful:
> TORO Belt size, length, width for TORO belts by part number.


* I have Never paid more than 20-25 4 a belt. and they are all TORO'S Own.*


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

Occasionally, the recoil starter will become really easy to pull, like it is unattached from the engine. If I wait a minute and try again it works. Isn't it purely a mechanical connection?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

creeve4 said:


> Occasionally, the recoil starter will become really easy to pull, like it is unattached from the engine. If I wait a minute and try again it works. Isn't it purely a mechanical connection?


* Did you check to see if all the bolts holding the shroud are in tight. or maybe just maybe 1 of the rivets that hold the recoil to said shroud is trying to get free as a bird??????? k:k:k:k:k:k:*


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## creeve4 (Dec 16, 2015)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * Did you check to see if all the bolts holding the shroud are in tight. or maybe just maybe 1 of the rivets that hold the recoil to said shroud is trying to get free as a bird??????? k:k:k:k:k:k:*


Thanks for the tips, I'll take it apart and check this weekend.


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