# Info on a CCR2000



## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

I had a family friend pick this machine up today on the cape, i'll take delivery next week when i visit the family. Can someone confirm if this is the model with the 4.5hp suzuki 2 stroke motor? TIA


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## SnoThro (Feb 20, 2016)

It is, they never made them with anything else. Other than the cosmetic rust it also looks to be in really good shape if its original. Its at least 20 years old, from the chromed handle and the shade of red probably more like 25.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

pull cords been replaced and scraper looks worn, use these to negotiate. make sure to let it run for about 5 minutes and then turn it off and try to restart it. if it wont restart without letting it coll down, the coils bad and you shouldnt buy it unless its dirt cheap. it is a very common and expensive failure on these ccr3000 and ccr2000 blowers, but if if its in good shape you will own one of the best single stages toro ever made


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

43128 said:


> pull cords been replaced and scraper looks worn, use these to negotiate. make sure to let it run for about 5 minutes and then turn it off and try to restart it. if it wont restart without letting it coll down, the coils bad and you shouldnt buy it unless its dirt cheap. it is a very common and expensive failure on these ccr3000 and ccr2000 blowers, but if if its in good shape you will own one of the best single stages toro ever made


I bought it sight unseen for $50, it starts but bogs under heavy load according to previous owner. Good running machines like this are going for $200+ around here, I felt $50 was worth taking a risk.


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## wheelhorseboy (May 30, 2014)

Its was usually the ignition module, not the coil that went out on those.


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## wheelhorseboy (May 30, 2014)

If its bogging down, probably a carb issue, so sounds like you got a good deal.


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## IBME (Oct 28, 2015)

I have a CCR2000E. Only difference is the electric start. When mine bogs down I put some seafoam in it and it cures the problem.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Even at $50, watch out for $$$ replacement parts; I've owned two of them. Good machine when all is right.


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## Mooner (Sep 1, 2016)

Hi, all. I'm new here and this is my first post. I bought a used CCR2000 back in the nineties....it was a beast! It stayed at the house when I moved, so I had been searching for another and just located one a week ago. This one has electric start. I sanded most of the metal parts. Painted the chute and applied Herculiner to the side panels. Then I sprayed clearcoat on the plastics. I think it turned out pretty well. I'm ready now!


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Mooner, welcome aboard! Does the machine run?


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## Mooner (Sep 1, 2016)

Hi, Uber....thanks for the warm welcome. Yeah, the machine runs like a champ....just like my previous one.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

N i c e !!


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## stromr (Jul 20, 2016)

Mooner said:


> Hi, all. I'm new here and this is my first post. I bought a used CCR2000 back in the nineties....it was a beast! It stayed at the house when I moved, so I had been searching for another and just located one a week ago. This one has electric start. I sanded most of the metal parts. Painted the chute and applied Herculiner to the side panels. Then I sprayed clearcoat on the plastics. I think it turned out pretty well. I'm ready now!


First off Welcome Aboard! Secondly I've got a CCR1000 I use on my deck, something about Toro's single stage snowblowers, maybe the paddle design? They have been superior to everybody else.


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## Mooner (Sep 1, 2016)

Hey, Stromr....thanks for the welcome. Yeah, i made a nice score with this machine. It honestly looks new. It might be the last snowblower i ever buy. Lol. I have a Cub Cadet 149, and sold the snowthrower attachment for it. It worked great....just a pain to attach and remove.


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## Mooner (Sep 1, 2016)

stromr said:


> First off Welcome Aboard! Secondly I've got a CCR1000 I use on my deck, something about Toro's single stage snowblowers, maybe the paddle design? They have been superior to everybody else.


Oh....and my father in law had a CCR 1000 for years and it worked great!


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## Mooner (Sep 1, 2016)

Mooner said:


> Hi, all. I'm new here and this is my first post. I bought a used CCR2000 back in the nineties....it was a beast! It stayed at the house when I moved, so I had been searching for another and just located one a week ago. This one has electric start. I sanded most of the metal parts. Painted the chute and applied Herculiner to the side panels. Then I sprayed clearcoat on the plastics. I think it turned out pretty well. I'm ready now!


Here is a photo after the work was done...


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## unome (Aug 29, 2016)

That thing looks brand new.
Well done!
Herculiner is a good idea.
Welcome to the forums.


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## Mooner (Sep 1, 2016)

Thanks, Unome. I'm anxious to use it but not for winter to come. Lol


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Mooner, yours look very good, the time and effort spent on it shows. 

Mine is in very good condition as it is, I am pretty sure I'll get to restoring it eventually, for the time being I was finally able to bring it home a couple of weeks ago as it spent most of this year down on the Cape, sitting in my uncle's garage.


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## LouC (Dec 5, 2016)

It looks great! I have a 1998 3000 GTS, with the Suzuki 47P engine. I think in those age ranges, there were also Tecumseh engines available. I know when I bought mine there was a choice and the Suzuki was more expensive by maybe 100 bucks or so. It's been a good machine, I have replaced the carb due to wear in the throttle shaft that caused surging and sticking of the governor, but that's the only expensive repair its needed. Suzuki engine parts are a lot more than Briggs from my experience. Other than that, I replaced the belt once or twice and the paddles twice in about 18 years of use....


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Finally got my machine on the work bench. 

Cleaned the carb, even though it didnt need much cleaning. I got one of the jets out of the center hole but the other second one wouldnt come out and the two notches in it for the screw driver to sit in didnt seem like they'd be happy if I used too much force, so i left it alone and just hosed the whole thing with crab cleaner. 

The scrapper bar was bent and so was the bottom part of the housing, seems like the owner ran into something hard and just bent it out of shape. I took the bar off, heated it with a heat gun, bent it back into shape and then fixed the bend in the housing. 

Rubber peddles seem to have plenty of life on them, I do remember the owner telling me that they were only a year old. 


Now I realize why the seller sold it cheap, before putting everything back together I tested the ignition coil to see if there is any spark and as suspected, no spark. 

So now I wait for the replacement nova II to come in so I can put the machine back together and put it to use.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

I'm hoping that a low $$$ get's that machine back on the drive, burning gas/oil !


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

uberT said:


> I'm hoping that a low $$$ get's that machine back on the drive, burning gas/oil !




You and I both, the machine is in overall good condition, nothing missing and practically no rust beside the surface rust on the chrome handlebars. 

With the shop rates these days its no wonder people decide to throw away stuff more often than fixing it or having it fix, not to mention part prices. 

I remember picking up two JD commercial straight shaft string trimmers 10 years ago, one needed a new coil and the other needed a carb. The owner decided to sell them for $20 rather than having to shell out money and having them fixed. 

A few $$ laters I had two running trimmers that have been serving my yard needs ever since.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

I bought one off the side of the road, with electric start, a few years ago for $50. It looked really good, much nicer than the unit I had purchased new in 1992. I added about $200 to my initial purchase in repairs/parts, and it still wasn't right. I cut my losses at that point in time


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

Mooner said:


> Thanks, Unome. I'm anxious to use it but not for winter to come. Lol


hey mooner where in ohio are you frim? i got a ccr2000e a couple weeks ago it runs ok idle hunts a little bit. doesnt have the control plate and the pull rope is busted but all in all for $30 i got it for i cant complain.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

So, I got the nova II, installed it, still no spark . 

Changed the spark plug to a new NGK, tried it again and saw spark the first couple of times i spun the motor and then it went back to having no spark. 

Here is my question, should i put the whole thing back together and then try to see if it runs? Or should I keep diagnosing it? I certainly dont want to shell out another 100 or so for the ignition coil, is there a bench test I can do (using a multimeter etc) to see if I have a bad ignition?


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Ruh-roh...the black hole just opened a bit bigger ...


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

uberT said:


> Ruh-roh...the black hole just opened a bit bigger ...



I swear the minute I didnt notice a spark after installing the nova I thought about what you had said:banghead::banghead:

No worries, I am going to put the whole thing together and see if it works, if it doesnt I'll just part it and throw it on ebay. I know the carb alone will yield enough to cover what I have into the machine.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

LOL. I'm sorry, I really am. They were great machines and it made me somewhat sad to get rid of both of mine.


I don't know if you have a local OPE shop you could take it to for a diagnostic check?? Maybe allocate them $25 and then quit ??


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Put it back together, tried starting it and nothing . 

TOok everything off, adjusting the flywheel/magneto air gap to like 0.2mm saw a weak intermittent spark, nothing consistent. Conclusion? Bad coil IMO, replacement one is $212 lol, used one from ebay $110, no thank you. 

At this point the machine is trash, gonna throw a few parts on ebay and see I can recover my investment.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

I put mine on Craiglist. The same guy bought them both about a year apart. He was up in the direction of the north shore, probably not far from you.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

*Fixed*

Well, just when I had given up hope for this machine, here comes ebay to the rescue. Googled ignitions part number and a newly listed coil on ebay came up. $25 later I had a used coil in my hand, installed it with nova II, tested for spark NO SPARK. At this point I wanted to throw the machine through a wall.

A few deep breaths later I went ahead and installed the old ignition module and what do you know the SOB shows spark. 

I put the machine together, added fresh fuel, pulled the choke, primed and tried pull starting it. I tried a few times and noticed nothing, no blue smoke, no ignition :icon-deadhorse:

Another 20 pulls later I noticed the muffler spitting some blue smoke and another 10 pulls later the machined started up :eeek::eeek:

I didnt have any snow around to use the machine on as everything is frozen solid so more updates on the performance later. 


Working with this old toro with suzuki motor reminds me of Yamaha snowblowers. Very good machines but parts, due to supply and age of machine, are expensive as h3ll.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

JnC said:


> Well, just when I had given up hope for this machine, here comes ebay to the rescue. Googled ignitions part number and a newly listed coil on ebay came up. $25 later I had a used coil in my hand, installed it with nova II, tested for spark NO SPARK. At this point I wanted to throw the machine through a wall.
> 
> A few deep breaths later I went ahead and installed the old ignition module and what do you know the SOB shows spark.
> 
> ...


Toro Suzuki 47P engine ignition module fix

has anyone on here tried this to see if this is a real fix? i know someone has an old toro sitting around with no spark lol


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## SnoThro (Feb 20, 2016)

The old modules are potted, I wouldn't waste my time. I fixed a couple of these last year using Rotary module 23150 as a replacement (look on Amazon). The only "hard" part is a little cutting and crimping to cleanly mate it to the OE wiring. You can even bolt it in the same spot using one of the original screws. Doing this is probably also quicker than taking a heat gun and trying to dig out the sealant from the old module.


No idea how many seasons they'll last but ~$10 vs whatever crazy price Toro has them, figured i'd see what happens. Easy enough to swap out later at any rate.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

SnoThro said:


> The old modules are potted, I wouldn't waste my time. I fixed a couple of these last year using Rotary module 23150 as a replacement (look on Amazon). The only "hard" part is a little cutting and crimping to cleanly mate it to the OE wiring. You can even bolt it in the same spot using one of the original screws. Doing this is probably also quicker than taking a heat gun and trying to dig out the sealant from the old module.
> 
> 
> No idea how many seasons they'll last but ~$10 vs whatever crazy price Toro has them, figured i'd see what happens. Easy enough to swap out later at any rate.


nice if i ever come across one wo spark i will keep this and you in mind if i have any questions.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Machine is gone, didnt feel like fiddling with it any more and couldnt really see it getting any use now that I use a Honda 621. It was still giving me slight issue starting as it would take at least 10~15 for it to start, I suspect its the 0.2mm ignition/flywheel air gap; I couldnt find any info on the actual recommended air gap online so just set it to 0.2mm. I am sure if aired to the proper gap it'll be fine. 

I remember both of my other 2 stroke blowers with 5hp tecumseh motors would start right up, even after being in storage for more than half a year. 

Threw it up on Craigslist and it was sold within a couple of hours for asking price.


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## crammit442 (Feb 6, 2016)

This problem/solution may not apply to this particular machine, but on most two stroke s the coil itself is rarely bad. The vibration from hours of use will frequently cause the fairly stiff stranded plug wire to have internal breaks that make the coil appear bad. A really simple and cheap fix is to cut the plug wire flush at the coil. Get a small piece of SS or Al tubing and cut teeth in one end so it looks like a hole saw. By hand, cut in to coil about 1/4" or a bit more and the pick out the old plug wire until you have a flat bottomed hole. You'll find a small spike or sheet metal thread sticking up from the bottom. Go to any motorcycle shop and buy a couple of feet of non resistor stranded plug wire and a new plug boot (resistor or not). Simply make sure you're square to the spike in the hole and insert or screw on the new wire. Fill around with liquid super glue and you've got a new coil (if that was your problem). I hope that makes sense. It sounds WAY more complicated than it is. I've saved bunches of coils and money this way. Hope that helps someone. 
Charles


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## vern7000 (Jan 1, 2017)

I had one just like it, never even started it last yr. This yr., started 2nd pull. Payed $150 2 yrs ago, sold it for $100 this yr. nice machines.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

going to pick up another 2000 tomorrow it will be the 3rd one ive had in my possession in the last month. its the cleanest one i have ever seen it might be the keeper not a flipper lol


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

Just got this bad boy off the CL can't believe how clean it is. Not bad for $50




























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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Subie, that looks essentially identical to the unit (#38185) I bought off the side of the road for $50....it appeared to be super-clean and _was_ in much nicer shape than my #38180. The story goes downhill from there


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

uberT said:


> Subie, that looks essentially identical to the unit (#38185) I bought off the side of the road for $50....it appeared to be super-clean and _was_ in much nicer shape than my #38180. The story goes downhill from there


sorry you have had bad luck with them. i have not and i am not scared of the spark issues after doing some research im confident i could fix with a generic module.

what other expensive problems did you have to fix?


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

the problems I encountered were leaking carb and ignition related stuff. The 38185 would run for about 12 - 15 minutes and then die. It would not run again 'til completely cooled down. 


I suspect your diagnostic skills are far better than my own when it comes to this stuff. I should have quite long before I actually did.


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