# Mastercraft 10-33 Rescue Project



## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

History: 

My previous tenants at the farm left this blower behind. I told the next tenants they could use it. They couldn't get it to run and decided they needed the garage space for more"important" items. So the blower sat outside under a pine tree for 3years. Now that those tenants have also left, I decided not to give the blower to the new tenants. I brought the blower back to my place and will attemptto bring it back to winter ready condition.

Progress:

The tenants had told me that it would run but then stall. I figured the first step will have to be a carb cleaning. I could see that the throttle flap was seized and would not move freely. I took the carb apart and cleaned it. I decided to use the air compressor to blow outsome debris; in doing so the inlet needle seat flew out of the carb and is since missing. I also found out that the carb bowl had a small hole in it.Between getting a new needle and seat kit and the bowl it was cheaper to just buy a Chinese carb of EBay. Once I installed the carb it started easily on the first pull. 

To Do List:

Glowing Muffler - Once I had it up and running with the new carb after a few minutes I noticed something glowing inside the muffler. From what I've read it this can be due to the carb running lean or the exhaust valve needs adjusting. The muffler is also quite rotten with rust especially on the back side. I also broke one of the bolts when I removed the exhaust.

Chute direction control: It seems that this has popped out of where it's supposed to be.

Chute height adjustment - The hardware to keep the chute height in place is missing. 

Heater Box Missing

Belt cover broken

Kill Switch Inoperable- This may just be because of the rust and the connections are not making proper contact.

Holes in impeller housing - Not sure if body filler will hold or if welding is the best option.

Skid Shoes Rusted out - The housing is barleyholding on as well. Most likely will have to weld on a plate to reinforce.


I've also looked everywhere for the model and serial numbers on this machine. Its either been painted over or it was on the back plate which is missing. If anybody knows an apporximate match please let me know. It will help with finding parts.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yaT8rbV5kV6fSAp43


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## buzzybee (Nov 1, 2017)

Sweet! Very do-able repair project.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

You should post some photos of it and the problem areas. Might be repairable, might be more trouble than it's worth.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

I put a link at the bottom with pictures. Maybe its not working. I've attached them here as well.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

i would say thats more of a parts machine then anything. i would say save the engine sell the housing. looks like more trouble then its worth unfortunately


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'll take the easy one first. The chute rotation has a hex that allows you to adjust the fit between the curled wire and the teeth on the chute. As you move that hex forward or backward it will tighten or loosen the contact between the two. I'm guessing there is a C clip or E clip or something similar that holds it in place that's missing.

For the chute adjustment you just need a carriage bolt from the inside pointing out and either a nut or if you can get a large wing nut 2-3" so it's easily adjustable but can lock. Or something with a knob.
https://www.google.com/search?q=3/8.....69i57j0l5.3912j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I would make sure the welds and or bolts holding the body to the auger housing are good. If they start to go or flex all you'll be doing is eating belts rapidly until you can lock those two together without any flex. On both sides !!

But that impeller housing looks bad. It appears to be rusting out where the chute is welded to the housing. The holes aren't good but it looks to be rusting out. Might want to take a screwdriver and see if you can poke through it. Better to find out now than after you've invested a lot of time and the chute folds over when using it :sad2:

Can you do the welding on it or would you need to pay someone ??


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

43128 said:


> i would say thats more of a parts machine then anything. i would say save the engine sell the housing. looks like more trouble then its worth unfortunately


Corr


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

gearbox should be usable in another machine and tires look alright, but honestly im probably being to kind about the machine


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Can you do the welding on it or would you need to pay someone ??


 

I have access to a sheet metal fabrication shop. They'd do any welding and sheet metal work at no charge. So the rusted out parts won't be much of an issue. Worst case scenario if I wanted to put in the time, I could get the complete housing fabricated from scratch. 

For the chute crank assembly the hex bushing itself is broken. Part # 741-0403. I don't know what exactly keeps it in place but as you said there's probably a clip missing. 

Part Numbers: 


741-0403 -Chute Crank Bushing
35056 - Muffler
35438 - Choke Knob
35057A USE 36547 - Heater Box - will probably make custom.
Thinking of getting something like this to go with the carriage bolt.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

For the glowing muffler - what would you check first? 


I recall before I got the new carb and I was testing the blower with the original carb and the blower was shooting gas out of the exhaust before I could get it started. Once it started with the leaking carb it sounded horrible and may have even been backfiring. 


Does this mean it needs a valve adjustment? Or is out of timing?


With the new carb it runs and idles fine but the exhaust started to get red on the inside.



Running Lean – China carb doesn’t have an adjustment screw one th bowl but I could use the one off the old carb possibly.
Exhaust Valve Adjustment
Incorrect timing
Clogged Muffler
Which of these would you check first and how? Are 2 and 3 the same thing?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

exhaust valve lash if it's still glowing after the carb is set properly. do you have good compression?


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Tried doing the valve job couple weeks ago. Used lots of penetrating fluid over a couple of days but still managed to snap one of the head bolts. Tried to drill it and use an easy out but has little success. I then decided to drill right through but accidently went a bit sideways and drilled through the block. 


At this point I'll have to find the time to take the engine off and take it the sheet metal shop. See if they can help me out. 


If I do get the head off I'll probably had to fill the hole I've made with a weld or something. Hopefully I didn't go through the intake. I was probably better off just running it with the glowing muffler.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

I was passing by the blower in the garage and decided to give it another look. I was able to get the head off and will have to find the time to finish doing the valve adjustment in the coming weeks. 

Should I just do the adjustment and see if runs correct first or does it make sense to do valve lapping at the same time as well.

Also do I need to replace the head gasket since its been removed? I kind of pushed it in on one side. I don't think those gasket maker tubes would be sufficient in this case would it?

I'll try to get some pictures when I'm working on it next time. Especially the spot where I drilled through the block.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Since you have it apart lapping would make sense. Then the valve adjustment and a new gasket. Try to get a head gasket with a fire ring. It's a better quality one than the gasket that's just punched out.

On a small gas engine it isn't that critical but it's just a better part and helps prevent premature gasket failure. It's likely only a buck or three more than one without the ring.
On something with higher compression (cylinder pressures) or something that's highly modified with high RPMs, exotic fuels, turbo, supercharger, ... it starts to become critical.

Second photo has the fire ring around the circumference of the cylinder/combustion chamber.

.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

I checked the valve clearance it was .011 on the intake and .010 on the exhaust. I think the correct values are .008 on the intake and .012 on the exhaust. I could't figure out how to get the valve out. I think I bought the wrong removal tool for this engine or I just don't know how to use it. 

Originally the whole reason I started pulling this apart was because the muffler was starting to glow red. I should have just tried adjusting the new china carb first to see if it made a difference before I started pulling the head apart.

For the one head bolt I tried drilling out I did end up drilling into the intake chamber. I added some jb weld to the hole and tried to seal it up. 

I also broke off a file in the drilled hole and got it stuck in there. Once the JB Weld cures I can try drilling again and adding a new thread. 

How bad would it be if I tried to run it with the one bolt missing?

So far I've just broken the blower more than when I started.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

I got the blower back together and running this weekend. I adjusted the carb and think I have it set properly now. I don't see anything inside the muffler starting to glow. 

I do think it still backfires a bit when adjusting the throttle too quickly. It also kept dying when I'd increase the throttle. I think this gets better once the engine is more warmed up. I also noticed that if I increase the throttle quickly instead of gradually it does not die.

I get a big puff of smoke when I increase the throttle, If I increase it slowly it'll just die after the puff of smoke if I increase it quickly it'll give the puff of smoke and then it levels out and revs good after that. 

I was just test running it with the one head-bolt missing and reusing the old head gasket to see if it's even worth ordering a new one. 

I changed the oil on it as well and filled in the holes on the blower housing with some JB Weld. 

I have to go back and check the throttle mechanism as it's not working correctly. I may have lost/broken a spring or just need to tighten the screw on it. 

I also need to look into the kill switch as its not working either. The wires are not all connected and the connection points are quite rusty so I'll have to clean that up.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

I went back and realized I have the throttle linkage and mechanism in the wrong position. When I was replacing the fuel line I ended up running the fuel line on top the throttle linkage instead of under. Its fixed now and the throttle works correctly.

When I was testing the throttle last night I could again see orange/red ignition through the exhaust. The muffler itself is quite rotten so I'll replace it first and I'll probably need to adjust the carb again since the throttle situation was not correct.

For the muffler has anyone tried using a pancake style muffler with some threaded pipe instead of the tecumseh muffler?

The below would cost me $6 and the tecumseh muffler is like $40. I'm just curious about this, I know it's probably worth getting the correct one for couple extra dollars.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

I was able to fix the valve clearance issue this weekend. I finally got the exhaust valve out and got it set to 0.012. No more flames and sparks coming out of the exhaust. 

Next I need to cut out the rotten skid shoes and fix the sheet metal underneath.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

I tried to remove the 1 nut holding the skid shoe in but it ended up snapping. This is what was unveiled underneath. 

I will probably cut out the rotted part and get a new piece welded in.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Got these new skids made at the sheet metal shop this weekend. Also got a plate welded in for the rusted out housing.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Today's pics are not loading for me.


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

Did you ever mention what model Tecumseh that was????


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

db130 said:


> Today's pics are not loading for me.


updated the links, let me know if it works now


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

SkyLight62 said:


> updated the links, let me know if it works now



The pics now work and they look great!


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

SimplicitySolid22 said:


> Did you ever mention what model Tecumseh that was????


I wasn't able to find the model number stamped anywhere on the machine. I'm thinking it was painted over. From the size of the machine though at 33 inches I'm sure its a 10 HP SnowKing Engine HMSK100.

I might have to have another look and maybe sand down the cover to reveal it. Similar to how this guy did. 

Note this isn't mine just an example on how to reveal the number.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Just a quick couple coats of paint for the new parts. The new plate they welded in is a bit bigger than it needs to be, not a OEM look but it will work.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I would make sure the welds and or bolts holding the body to the auger housing are good. If they start to go or flex all you'll be doing is eating belts rapidly until you can lock those two together without any flex. On both sides !!


I never noticed any flexing before but when I brought the machine back form the sheet metal shop I noticed the bolts were loose and there's a flex when I go to push down on the handles to raise the front of the machine. 

I'm guessing something came loose during transport on the trailer to the sheet metal shop. I confess I didn't strap it down well enough and it was sliding around a bit. 

Hopefully nothing broke and those bolts just need tightening. With all the rust though usually when I got to tighten or loosen anything on this machine the bolt ends up snapping.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Took a closer look for the model number and found it. It's a HM100. 

The skid shoes look good on the machine. I also tightened up the housing so there is no more flex now.

I started it up just to test out the skids and noticed that the blower was again shooting flames out of the exhaust. It may be that it was just more noticeable in the dark compared to when I did the valve setting couple of weeks ago in daylight. I'll pick up some lapping compound before I take it apart this time. Lap and then set the valve clearance.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Finally got some snow this weekend to be able to use the blower. It was working well for a couple of passes but then the impeller belt slipped off. It was -30C with windchill so I didn't bother looking into it any further. I just used my other machine to finish the driveway. 

Other than that though the engine seemed to be running good. I didn't run it long enough to see if the muffler will start to glow again or not.

I don't have the machines model number. Does anyone know how I can narrow it down to get the correct belt for it? The Engine Model is HM100-159106L I believe.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

When the temps a little more favorable you should recheck the pulley alignment top to bottom and if the bolts holding the bucket to the trans loosened up again. If so might be time for some thread locker.


.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Had a look at the belt and it was actually inverted on the top pulley and slipped off from the bottom. I put it back on for now. 

Again when I started the blower in the evening when it was dark I could see the flames shooting out of the muffler. I think it burnt my jacket. I guess I need to ground down the exhaust valve some more.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

I bought a belt (1/2" x 38.7") back in February going off similar model numbers but when I went to put it on yesterday it was not even close to being the right size. 

I took off the original and took it with me this time and got the belt exchanged for something that is a closer match (1/2 X 45").

Still not 100% match but I'm going to try to get it on tonight and see what happens. I'm hoping the original one was stretched a bit and that's why it seems longer.


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## SkyLight62 (Oct 6, 2017)

Got the new belt on and it's the correct size. One of the belt keepers was bent way out of shape and was rubbing on the pulley. Got that straightened out as well. 

Blower runs good now, just a bit loud because of the rotted out muffler. I suspect it's still running too hot but did not see any flames this time in the daylight.

I took some measurements to make a CAD drawing of the missing bottom plate so that I can get it laser cut. 

I'm guessing its supposed to look something like this. 










This is what I've got so far











Need to add some slots and 2 bends.


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