# Another Newbie (with a Honda HS828)



## Bobbo (Mar 9, 2018)

Just found this forum (just like I found the Gilson tractor forum last year) while searching for help. Last year I was fortunate enough to come across a Honda HS828 in mint condition, including the Owner's Manual which looked like it never had a page turned. The snow blower has the optional work light attachment, which is the reason for my post. Does anyone have the instruction sheet for the light? The light stopped working and I don't see how to remove the lamp to replace it. Besides, I like having all the paperwork associated with my equipment.

Bobbo


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Bobbo said:


> Just found this forum (just like I found the Gilson tractor forum last year) while searching for help. Last year I was fortunate enough to come across a Honda HS828 in mint condition, including the Owner's Manual which looked like it never had a page turned. The snow blower has the optional work light attachment, which is the reason for my post. Does anyone have the instruction sheet for the light? The light stopped working and I don't see how to remove the lamp to replace it. Besides, I like having all the paperwork associated with my equipment.
> 
> Bobbo


The lamp can be pulled out from the rubber outer part and you can put in a new lamp in seconds as it just has 2 wires that attaches easily. I took the whole thing off and brought it until the house to heat it up so the rubber is more pliable and gently pried out the old lamp, 

before pushing the new lamp into the rubber sheaf makes sure it works. did you check the wiring on the light? is it properly grounded? does the ground connection need to be cleaned? are the connections corroded? if so replace the connectors and try light. usually you can shake lamp and if you hear rattling then you know the filament broke.

I'm changing all my lights to 27w LED round lamps since they are so much brighter. you can get a 2 pack on Amazon for $12.71 right now. the last regular lamp I got was 21 bucks.

good luck.

also if you plan to keep this blower i highly recommend buying the official Honda shop manual for 39 bucks on Amazon if you like to do your own repairs. It's worth it's weight in gold and has saved me a ton of money. this manual covers the HS624,724,828,928 , and 1132.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF Bobbo
.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Welcome aboard.

Agree with purchasing a Service Manual for it if you plan on keeping the blower for a long time and do your own maintenance.

Here are two links for it

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-HS1132-blower-Service-Repair/dp/B06WLKRLRP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520596255&sr=8-1&keywords=Honda+HS828+service+manual&dpID=51OzqIi3b%252BL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-HS62...735990&hash=item3ada375779:g:CbIAAOSwDkVaA7f7

On the light issue, I'd check power and ground inputs to the light (using a AC voltmeter) with the engine running. If good replace the bulb, if not you'll have to do a little more diagnosis to it....


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## Bobbo (Mar 9, 2018)

Thanks for the service manual link. I also agree with having them. I got them for every car I owned plus my motorcycle. Couldn't get one for my lawn tractor, but the exploded parts diagrams and lists are sufficient.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Sometimes eBay has the Service Manual with slight misprint on the cover page for $30 ($10 off), I bought one that way and it works well for me.


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## Bobbo (Mar 9, 2018)

orangputeh said:


> The lamp can be pulled out from the rubber outer part and you can put in a new lamp in seconds as it just has 2 wires that attaches easily. I took the whole thing off and brought it until the house to heat it up so the rubber is more pliable and gently pried out the old lamp,
> 
> before pushing the new lamp into the rubber sheaf makes sure it works. did you check the wiring on the light? is it properly grounded? does the ground connection need to be cleaned? are the connections corroded? if so replace the connectors and try light. usually you can shake lamp and if you hear rattling then you know the filament broke.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for the info. The rubber ring looked like metal to me, but after your post I took a closer look. I have rubber housings on my tractor lights and they really do look like rubber. I haven't gotten back to it yet, but I appreciate your suggestion about bringing it inside to warm it up. Thank again.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Go with a PAR36 LED replacement bulb. Direct plug and play and 10x brighter than stock halogen bulb:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...wap-honda-hs624-hs724-hs828-hs928-hs1132.html


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

orangputeh said:


> I'm changing all my lights to 27w LED round lamps since they are so much brighter. you can get a 2 pack on Amazon for $12.71 right now. the last regular lamp I got was 21 bucks.


Do you have a link for those ??

I have a couple machines with the PAR36 incandescent bulbs and ran across this that will work on AC so I could just swap them in. https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/bl..._fF-E-V06dqsS70tNt6mkzm-DR_BaIfUaAsoCEALw_wcB Compared to building the rectifier the $20 seems pretty reasonable. Just wish they were floods instead of spot.

.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2017)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Do you have a link for those ??
> 
> I have a couple machines with the PAR36 incandescent bulbs and ran across this that will work on AC so I could just swap them in. https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/bl..._fF-E-V06dqsS70tNt6mkzm-DR_BaIfUaAsoCEALw_wcB Compared to building the rectifier the $20 seems pretty reasonable. Just wish they were floods instead of spot.
> 
> .



I recently made the change from my stock light to the PAR36 model. HUGE difference in output!! Thanks to great advice from this forum. Here is the light I bought!! 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017IFJ93I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Do you have a link for those ??
> 
> I have a couple machines with the PAR36 incandescent bulbs and ran across this that will work on AC so I could just swap them in. https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/bl..._fF-E-V06dqsS70tNt6mkzm-DR_BaIfUaAsoCEALw_wcB Compared to building the rectifier the $20 seems pretty reasonable. Just wish they were floods instead of spot.
> 
> .


i book marked your link. thanks. like a dummy i did not do my homework and found out the hardway from donyboy73 that i have toget a rectifier and a couple other thingies to set these up on a blower. 

so what can i use these now for? the reason i got them is because my neighbor who uses those big Horner snow remover machines put these led's on all his machines and swears by them.

have you actually used these? and if so are they better than the original?


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Can't really speak to other brands, however I have the Vstar Par 36 LED bulb and can confirm that it does not require a bridge rectifier with Honda snow blowers outputting 12-24v AC voltage at the stator wire. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Vstar-PAR36-Halogen-Landscape-Waterproof/dp/B017IFJ93I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520863058&sr=8-1&keywords=vstar+par36+led+bulb+5000


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2017)

Freezn said:


> Can't really speak to other brands, however I have the Vstar Par 36 LED bulb and can confirm that it does not require a bridge rectifier with Honda snow blowers outputting 12-24v AC voltage at the stator wire. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Vstar-PAR36-...058&sr=8-1&keywords=vstar+par36+led+bulb+5000



Freezn, I'm pretty sure it was you who recommended the above LED replacement to me a few months back. It was a very simple swap. Unhook the red and black wire connectors off the old bulb, reconnect on the new bulb and done. 10x the brightness!!!


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> Freezn, I'm pretty sure it was you who recommended the above LED replacement to me a few months back. It was a very simple swap. Unhook the red and black wire connectors off the old bulb, reconnect on the new bulb and done. 10x the brightness!!!


No worries. You did all the work. Glad it worked out. Did you end up adding a toggle on/off switch for the light?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

[email protected] said:


> Freezn, I'm pretty sure it was you who recommended the above LED replacement to me a few months back. It was a very simple swap. Unhook the red and black wire connectors off the old bulb, reconnect on the new bulb and done. 10x the brightness!!!


i was told you had to put a rectifier on and something else or you would burn out the LED prematurely. not sure but am going to find out before i swap mine out.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2017)

Freezn said:


> No worries. You did all the work. Glad it worked out. Did you end up adding a toggle on/off switch for the light?


No toggle switch!! Too lazy!! :grin: I've been spending the majority of my free time getting ready for "car" season!! AKA: Spring!!


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> i was told you had to put a rectifier on and something else or you would burn out the LED prematurely. not sure but am going to find out before i swap mine out.



Time will tell.. I have about 2 hours on the new light, so far so good..


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> i was told you had to put a rectifier on and something else or you would burn out the LED prematurely. not sure but am going to find out before i swap mine out.


You only need a bridge rectifier if you're trying to add a 12v DC powered LED light to a 12v AC power source. The V-Star PAR36 bulb from Amazon is rated for 9W (equivalent to 50W halogen) *10-30V AC/DC, * Been running this bulb for 2 years with no issues because it's rated for 10-30v AC or DC. That's the key... AC rating. Most automotive or utility LED lights are rated for 12v DC so they cannot be used on a Honda electrical system that is supplying 12v - 24v (depending on engine speed) AC voltage without the addition of a bridge rectifier. If you're happy with the stock PAR36 Halogen bulb set-up (rubber shell and stock mounting bracket), but want to upgrade to LED lighting, then the V-Star LED bulb is the way to go. If you don't like the stock PAR36 bulb set-up and want to change to different LED lights all together, then yes, you'll absolutely need a bridge rectifier / converter for 12v DC powered lights.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Freezn said:


> You only need a bridge rectifier if you're trying to add a 12v DC powered LED light to a 12v AC power source. The V-Star PAR36 bulb from Amazon is rated for 9W (equivalent to 50W halogen) *10-30V AC/DC, * Been running this bulb for 2 years with no issues because it's rated for 10-30v AC or DC. That's the key... AC rating. Most automotive or utility LED lights are rated for 12v DC so they cannot be used on a Honda electrical system that is supplying 12v - 24v (depending on engine speed) AC voltage without the addition of a bridge rectifier. If you're happy with the stock PAR36 Halogen bulb set-up (rubber shell and stock mounting bracket), but want to upgrade to LED lighting, then the V-Star LED bulb is the way to go. If you don't like the stock PAR36 bulb set-up and want to change to different LED lights all together, then yes, you'll absolutely need a bridge rectifier / converter for 12v DC powered lights.


ok.thanks. these led's are 27w so i'll have to look at the paperwork to find the specs. i watched a donyboy73 video on this. i have a spare par36 bulb i can use. just wanted more brightness. did not know they had a led equivelent.

the 27w probably need the rectifier so i'll use them for something else. my buddy has a couple big Horner snow removal machines that he uses them for.

someone posted a link here earlier for a regular bulb set up and they are only about 9 bucks for the whole thing. i wonder if they are ok. ?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Since the V-Star PAR36 bulb is rated for 10-30V AC/DC, you should not require a regulator/rectifier unless your RPMs are set significantly higher than the spec maximum. A/C stators produce voltage in direct proportion (linear increase) to the driven speed. The HSS service manual warns about exceeding max spec RPM when adjusting the governor (disconnect LED headlight before adjusting it), or LED failure is likely. The attached diagram is direct measurement from my HSS1332, but the HS828 stator output is probably similar.


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