# Semi New Ariens 921037 leaking oil from engine



## jsolo

Hello,

The blower is about 8 months old, less than 5 hours run time. Prepping it for winter noticed oil seeping from the right (muffler side) of the engine. Appears to be coming from the lower right (as facing the unit) crank case cover bolt. It's seeping over to the left side and then down into area where the axle is. The inside of the service cover was covered in oil. It only leaks when the unit has been operated.

This bolt does not appear to be very easily accessible without pulling the engine off the main chassis. That black guard is in the way. It is still in warranty, but is a hassle to get it to the shop. Any thoughts or suggestions?


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## nwcove

since its still under warrantee, i would deal with the hassle of taking it back. any work you do in that area may leave tell tale signs and possibly void the warrantee . jmo


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## jsolo

Agreed. For those familiar with these, are they able to pull that cover without removing the engine from the chassis?


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## Zavie

I remember someone on the forum last winter bought a new Ariens that leaked oil from day one. I think he returned it and got a Craftsman.


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## PixMan

Despite the sharp photos I'm not completely clear on which of those bolts is leaking. It all looks pretty clean to me. 

Which motor does your machine have, the 306cc or the (somewhat rare) 414cc?


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## ChrisJ

Zavie said:


> I remember someone on the forum last winter bought a new Ariens that leaked oil from day one. I think he returned it and got a Craftsman.


Seems like a strange move.
Trade a known good brand to a questionable one, both of which likely have Chinese engines. Yes, sorry, I consider Craftsman to be questionable these days, including their tools which is a shame. I used to think they were great.

Would've made more sense to have the new Ariens repaired under warranty, that's why it has one to begin with. Always found people that hop from one brand to another due to minor issues to be amusing.


*To the OP, get it serviced under warranty. It's a pain, but it's a good machine. These things can happen to anyone.*


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## jsolo

Best view is 2nd and 3rd pics, right where the crank case cover meets the block. If you zoom in (these are super high res pics), you can see the wet gasket and possible a thin line of oil.

Already made arrangements. It will be the shop's headache to do whatever needs to be done to fix it.

Sadly, this thing hasn't even had it's first oil change yet 

PS. This has the 291 cc LCT engine.


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## ChrisJ

jsolo said:


> Best view is 2nd and 3rd pics, right where the crank case cover meets the block. If you zoom in (these are super high res pics), you can see the wet gasket and possible a thin line of oil.
> 
> Already made arrangements. It will be the shop's headache to do whatever needs to be done to fix it.
> 
> Sadly, this thing hasn't even had it's first oil change yet
> 
> PS. This has the 291 cc LCT engine.



I believe most machines are more likely to fail early on than later on from silly issues like this. It's better for you as well because now someone else has to fix it for you.

Try to not let it leave a bad taste in your mouth. Chances are you won't have any other issues with it.


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## Unwind346

I found a similar issue with my 306cc ltc. I noticed a small amount of oil on the floor of my shed and it looked like there was oil leaking from a plastic cap that covers an inspection port? Not sure what it is. Here is a picture the cap is at the front of the engine to the left of the service sticker on the belt cover. I had my dealer take it back to see what is wrong. Waiting to hear back on what was wrong.


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## mobiledynamics

That is the ~old skool~ fill hole.....
They have capped that and the yellow - oil fill hole/dipstick is the reference point.

I've yet to explore but do plan....to see if the threads are the same as a *Honda*. I intend to replace it if it does, as I have Magnetic ~dipsticks~ in my stash


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## Zavie

ChrisJ said:


> Seems like a strange move.
> Trade a known good brand to a questionable one, both of which likely have Chinese engines. Yes, sorry, I consider Craftsman to be questionable these days, including their tools which is a shame. I used to think they were great.
> 
> Would've made more sense to have the new Ariens repaired under warranty, that's why it has one to begin with. Always found people that hop from one brand to another due to minor issues to be amusing.
> 
> 
> *To the OP, get it serviced under warranty. It's a pain, but it's a good machine. These things can happen to anyone.*


I think he was very disappointed and even though he said it was the LCT engines fault ultimately he questioned Ariens QC because he did buy near the top of the line Ariens machine. I'm thinking that he had a Craftsman that did serve him well for many years before. I was hoping that he would have done as you suggested and go the warranty route so that we could have learned a little more about the leak to share info with the forum. He choose not to mess with it and as I remember carted it back to Home Depot for a return. Wish I could locate the thread!


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## dbert

Are you certain it's not from the "old" fill hole cap just above it? The gasket is a little wet above the area I think you are focusing on. 

The dealer should fix this regardless, but say it wasn't under warranty, or I just really wanted to know......I'd clean it up with a little alcohol or something and run it for say 30 second intervals and then get in there with a flashlight to try to verify point of origin.


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## ChrisJ

Zavie said:


> I think he was very disappointed and even though he said it was the LCT engines fault ultimately he questioned Ariens QC because he did buy near the top of the line Ariens machine. I'm thinking that he had a Craftsman that did serve him well for many years before. I was hoping that he would have done as you suggested and go the warranty route so that we could have learned a little more about the leak to share info with the forum. He choose not to mess with it and as I remember carted it back to *Home Depot* for a return. Wish I could locate the thread!



Well,
First mistake was he bought it from Home Depot.
Second mistake was, at least now, None of the Ariens top of the line machines use LCT, only the cheaper series do.

Although I don't know that the Briggs Honda Clone is any better. To be honest I'd take either over my Tecumseh right now. My valve clearances were too tight so I have high hopes for this winter! That said, it still runs like a Tecumseh. You know, no matter how you tune the carb it's never quite right.


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## Normex

ChrisJ said:


> Well,
> First mistake was he bought it from Home Depot.
> Second mistake was, at least now, None of the Ariens top of the line machines use LCT, only the cheaper series do.
> QUOTE]
> 
> This OP's issue has nothing to do with either what you imply as mistakes on his part, Home Depot being the least choice to buy from does not run the engine enough for the small oil leak to show since none was reported to drop on the floor and secondly LCT are good quality engines but admittedly had a few with this problem. Let not bash prospective new owners to choose their units based on engine brands. There are thousands sold with LCT engines without a hint of a problem.


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## ChrisJ

Normex said:


> ChrisJ said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well,
> First mistake was he bought it from Home Depot.
> Second mistake was, at least now, None of the Ariens top of the line machines use LCT, only the cheaper series do.
> QUOTE]
> 
> This OP's issue has nothing to do with either what you imply as mistakes on his part, Home Depot being the least choice to buy from does not run the engine enough for the small oil leak to show since none was reported to drop on the floor and secondly LCT are good quality engines but admittedly had a few with this problem. Let not bash prospective new owners to choose their units based on engine brands. There are thousands sold with LCT engines without a hint of a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My comments had nothing to do with the OP.
> *Furthermore*, I was not bashing anything. I was all for the OP keeping the machine as I had said multiple times it's a good machine.
Click to expand...


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## jsolo

dbert said:


> Are you certain it's not from the "old" fill hole cap just above it? The gasket is a little wet above the area I think you are focusing on.
> 
> The dealer should fix this regardless, but say it wasn't under warranty, or I just really wanted to know......I'd clean it up with a little alcohol or something and run it for say 30 second intervals and then get in there with a flashlight to try to verify point of origin.


I'm pretty sure that plug is tight/not leaking, but I'll check it over tomorrow. There's a few others here in town that may do warranty work. If not, it'll go back to the place I bought it from (further away).

Friday, I called a few local places, one told me they do warranty work for ariens. Scheduled a pick up for next week. In the mean time was able to get a friend to help bring the unit to them. Before writing it up I show the owner (of the shop) the paperwork. He tells me they're not an ariens authorized dealer and can't do warranty work

As I'm waiting for my friend to come back so we can take the unit back home, i'm asked what the problem is and what type of engine. *NOW* the guy claims they can do warranty work on LCT engines but not the ariens unit itself. I'm really confused now. To get at the engine they need to pull it off the ariens chassis. Who's going to pay for this labor??

Anyways, they had my name/number, who ever it was I talked to could have called back to tell me they don't work on these. The owner claims I was called and informed. My call logs and voice mail doesn't reflect further contact other than the initial call I made. Communications in this shop is abysmal apparently.


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## Rob711

What's the deal with that bolt hanging out in the almost center of the first pic, I don't know about new ariens but that does not look right


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## BullFrog

^ I noticed that as well. What's keeping it there?


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## jsolo

That's one of the bolts that holds the plastic belt cover on. It can be pulled out entirely, but appears to be designed to stay partially in place when the cover is removed ( so you don't lose it?)

I did check that second oil filler plug (black, partially visible in the first pic way at the top center). It was tight. Also with the machine running, no oil is blowing by there.


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## jsolo

A brief update. 

It was indeed leaking from the area I referenced above. The shop tightened the crankcase cover bolts, no more leak.

There is another twist to this, will update in a few days.....


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## PixMan

jsolo said:


> A brief update.
> 
> It was indeed leaking from the area I referenced above. The shop tightened the crankcase cover bolts, no more leak.
> 
> There is another twist to this, will update in a few days.....


Why the suspense? 

Trade up to a Hydro Pro?


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## GoBlowSnow

After a few years of using a Deluxe-30 there was some oil that started to seep down from an area like that on the machine I used. I too tightened down the bolts and that fixed the problem. Probably not a bad idea to check out the torque on those bolts every year or two.


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## jsolo

So much for no leak. They delivered the unit back, ran it for a few minutes and a thin line of oil started forming again at the base. Not as much as before, but still leaking from someplace. It's headed back to the shop again.

The suspense part was related to them attempting to charge me for a warranty repair.


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## PixMan

Very sorry to hear that! Did the shop guy(s) that delivered it hang around long enough after dropping it off to see the problem rear its ugly head and immediately haul it back?

I'd insist upon a replacement machine, or at least a spanking new engine in that one. The current engine must have a void in the casting at the gasket area. You might want to get Ariens in the loop on this, as they're the ones honoring the warranty on both machine and motor.


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## jsolo

Absolutely. I wasn't signing off on anything until I confirmed it was no longer leaking.

Ariens is already in the loop regarding whether this was to be a warranty repair or not. Requesting a new unit and/or engine may be premature at this point. My understanding is the shop just tightened the crankcase bolts, not replaced the gasket. I suppose if it's still leaking with a new gasket then I can push for a replacement engine or unit.

I'll want to hear what the shop has to say first before I contact ariens for any escalation.

I will say this, it takes a keen eye to spot this leak. With the unit outside in sunlight, it was hard to see until I shined a light on it. There was an obvious oil line between the engine base and chassis (more so near the exhaust side oil plug.)


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## jsolo

Got the unit back this morning (just in time for the blizzard tomorrow).

They say the oil I saw before was residual from not cleaning the area off well enough ¿?¿?. After thoroughly cleaning the area they ran it for a length of time at the shop with no leaks found.

I ran it for about 10 minutes here - this would be plenty of time to make it noticeable before. So far no leaks. Forecast calls for 2-8" here in the next day so it'll get some use for sure. Hopefully this is the last of this issue.


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## GoBlowSnow

Here's to hoping things work out well for you. keep us posted.


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## Michael Smith

I'm reviving this thread as I too am seeing a thin line of oil at the base of the engine on the chassi. Brand new ariens 28 pro efi. What bolts did they tighten?


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## Ravippe

I think i may have had the same issue. I purchased an Ariens EFI 24 Sho, notice when i cleaned the belly pan there was oil. About two sheets of paper towel, not much after sitting for 6 months. Oil levels were fine...Looked around, saw the classic oil sheen around where the engine meets the base...that black part in the pictures from this user above.

Im 95% sure its not the crank case but the small black oil dipstick that is on the right side. Part # 20001293

Put your finger on the base of the cap, keep repeating every few minutes... Saw oil on finger, cleaned try again, little less bit still...repeated.like 20 times..looks like a thin line of oil on my finger. It visually does not look like its leaking you will see no streaks on the machine under it.

So what i did is unscrewed it off...dont worry the oil Will NOT spill out. Mine had oil in it.

You will see inside, clean the rim with a cloth, then clean the screw in plastic mini dipstick. 
It does have some type of odd o ring seal...but it doesnt look like it would be great for oil. So what i did is wrapped PTFE pipe thread...i like blue monster at home depot...oatly will do also...PTFE is rated for 500F so you will be fine.. i also use a similar type of rtv silicon for my pellet stove in a paste format...but for oil cap connections i prefer tape, cleaner no mess. I also use the same pipe thread tape for oil cap for draining. Thats the one under the handle bars for yearly oil changes.

Appy the PTFE pipe tale...Then just screw it back by hand, and i used a napkin on the knob to prevent scratchs and a vice grip and did about a 20 degree snug turn after i tightened by hand. Your fingers wont have the strength to turn it enough. Snug like... dont turn it too much. Mine felt snug and i never felt like it was going to break. 

Just to be extra paranoid i checked it a few more times also on the bottom and no more oil.

I also ordered a replacement cap..just in case for a spare.

Remember usually leaks occur higher then you expect... The ariens mini oil stick cap tends to leak inward, so it runs down the metal engine chasis, disapears on the bottom and is not very visible. Rememeber its a slow slow leak. And probably will be more present after your engine is on because of pressure.if you notice more oil on the right side of your machine its going to be that stupid plastic dipstick.

Rememeber my logic is, everything big is factory spec, a machine probably did it, but the human parts...mini dip stick, hand tight items those are the ones you should check first. 

I also want to mention that anyone with an ariens should check that little black cap on the bottom... Im sure you will see a little oil on your finger. 2 dollar fix, so easy.

I won't cause damage to not fix it, but you may notice a little oil in the belly pan each year and it will also prevent oil from getting on the slip plate...thats the round disc that the rubber wheel rubs against to move the wheels...you want that dry.

Problem solved for me!


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## Ravippe

Ravippe said:


> I think i may have had the same issue. I purchased an Ariens EFI 24 Sho, notice when i cleaned the belly pan there was oil. About two sheets of paper towel, not much after sitting for 6 months. Oil levels were fine...Looked around, saw the classic oil sheen around where the engine meets the base...that black part in the pictures from this user above.
> 
> Im 95% sure its not the crank case but the small black oil dipstick that is on the right side. Part # 20001293
> 
> Put your finger on the base of the cap, keep repeating every few minutes... Saw oil on finger, cleaned try again, little less bit still...repeated.like 20 times..looks like a thin line of oil on my finger. It visually does not look like its leaking you will see no streaks on the machine under it.
> 
> So what i did is unscrewed it off...dont worry the oil Will NOT spill out. Mine had oil in it.
> 
> You will see inside, clean the rim with a cloth, then clean the screw in plastic mini dipstick.
> It does have some type of odd o ring seal...but it doesnt look like it would be great for oil. So what i did is wrapped PTFE pipe thread...i like blue monster at home depot...oatly will do also...PTFE is rated for 500F so you will be fine.. i also use a similar type of rtv silicon for my pellet stove in a paste format...but for oil cap connections i prefer tape, cleaner no mess. I also use the same pipe thread tape for oil cap for draining. Thats the one under the handle bars for yearly oil changes.
> 
> Appy the PTFE pipe tale...Then just screw it back by hand, and i used a napkin on the knob to prevent scratchs and a vice grip and did about a 20 degree snug turn after i tightened by hand. Your fingers wont have the strength to turn it enough. Snug like... dont turn it too much. Mine felt snug and i never felt like it was going to break.
> 
> Just to be extra paranoid i checked it a few more times also on the bottom and no more oil.
> 
> I also ordered a replacement cap..just in case for a spare.
> 
> Remember usually leaks occur higher then you expect... The ariens mini oil stick cap tends to leak inward, so it runs down the metal engine chasis, disapears on the bottom and is not very visible. Rememeber its a slow slow leak. And probably will be more present after your engine is on because of pressure.if you notice more oil on the right side of your machine its going to be that stupid plastic dipstick.
> 
> Rememeber my logic is, everything big is factory spec, a machine probably did it, but the human parts...mini dip stick, hand tight items those are the ones you should check first.
> 
> I also want to mention that anyone with an ariens should check that little black cap on the bottom... Im sure you will see a little oil on your finger. 2 dollar fix, so easy.
> 
> I won't cause damage to not fix it, but you may notice a little oil in the belly pan each year and it will also prevent oil from getting on the slip plate...thats the round disc that the rubber wheel rubs against to move the wheels...you want that dry.
> 
> Problem solved for me!


I aslo checked the left side, same plastic.cap....but its "non removable" but you can actually order them on ariens..they look like they.are non removable because they have two tear drops on the front, like a special wrench was needed..but you can remove it,.or tighten it..its looks almost the same just smaller. My advice take it out put PTFE tape and vice grip wrench snug. Use a cloth cause you have to go from the.edges. turned out nice..and if you screw it up? Np 6 bucks on ariens. Its not a huge deal...or you can hope the dealer finds the leak lol. Mine felt not that tight, like it was loosely wrenched on.using your pinky lol.

See what i think happens is because they have plastic threads... And because they touch oil. The o ring can get shakey cause its screwed in by hand connected to a 369cc engine. Over time little oil seeps out, the knob gets a little looser...and then you see oil.


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## kdmurphy51

jsolo said:


> Agreed. For those familiar with these, are they able to pull that cover without removing the engine from the chassis?


You can pry that black cover back enough to get a wrench on that bolt. Mine was pretty tight, but seemed to be leaking along the bottom where the front cover is bolted to the block. 
Wondering if I can just remove the pulleys and related parts and get the cover off to rep ace the gasket?
Be nice if I did not have to remove the engine to replace the gasket!


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