# YS240 Ricky auger won't disengage



## big_swede (Dec 15, 2014)

Hi guys,

I'm doing a checkup of my father's YS240 "Ricky" and noticed that the auger won't disengage. Motor running = auger spinning, regardless if auger handle is depressed or not.

I know that he replaced the auger control cable recently, but after having tried every possible setting of the adjuster I can't believe that the cable is the issue.

Any ideas?

/big_swede


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

Hello big_swede,


The end linkage of the cable may be to tight and binding it in the operating position. I would back off the adjuster and remove the cable and then check the actual throw of the snubber pulley to see if it is binding.

The routing of the cable may be wrong and creating too much tension as well.

One other possibility is the belt snubber pulley is struck closed and pushing against the belt.

If you have some cable lube it would be a good idea to spray or pour some cable lube in the cable sheath.

If you have some PB blaster or its equivalent it will not hurt to lube everything that has linkages too.

You may as well check the V belt and if its checked and dried out tiny bits of rubber will come off in your hand.

It will be time to change the V belt if the rubber is cracked and coming off in your hand.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Is it possible that when your father installed the cable, he placed the pulley on the wrong side of the belt?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Try disconnecting the cable completely and see if it disengages the drive, if so it is adjustment related


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## big_swede (Dec 15, 2014)

Thanks for your input guys, but the YS240 Ricky doesn't have belts and pulleys like an "ordinary" blower. I think that when the auger is disengaged (handle released) a "brake" (friction discs?) is preventing the auger to rotate. There's a substantial spring that keeps the "brake" applied.

When you depress the auger handle the cable releases the brake and the auger starts to rotate. I tried both slacking and tightening the cable without any effect.

I was thinking that maybe the discs (?) have gotten stuck together and won't release. Maybe when load/torque is applied to the auger (actual snow to throw) they will seprate?

/big_swede


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

If you have time send an email to Kelly motor sports in Hamilton Ontario, Canada and you can ask them about the ricky and they(actually speedy) will help you.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Those are tricky machines to work on. Highly technical, and over engineered! First, make sure that the cable is moving the braking arm. Then make sure that the brake shoe is free. Which will require you to remove the bucket for inspection. It’s not a terribly difficult job to do. After that, make sure that the drum is free. Hope that helps, I own one too.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Correction the brake shoe, should brake the drum. So, removing the bucket, will allow you to ensure that the cable, arm, and shoe are moving. And it will allow to ensure it’s adjusted and has brake pad left.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)




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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

This is a Ricky torn down. (Just the gear box!)


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## Brent (Jul 31, 2019)

I have a Ricky I picked up for free in April. The auger engage cable is broken and I have a new one ready to install. I’m hoping that’s why it was retired. I also bought several gaskets, washers, operating manual, skids, and scraper. Expensive and some parts still backordered. I still need to buy a battery. I really wish I had a service manual. I’ve been looking for a while now with no luck.
I got it to fire on starting fluid, so I think it will run. I really hope the gearboxes and transmission are good.


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## big_swede (Dec 15, 2014)

db9938 said:


> Those are tricky machines to work on. Highly technical, and over engineered! First, make sure that the cable is moving the braking arm. Then make sure that the brake shoe is free. Which will require you to remove the bucket for inspection. It’s not a terribly difficult job to do. After that, make sure that the drum is free. Hope that helps, I own one too.


Thanks db9938. About removing the "bucket", I see the bolts are available through holes in the "fan". Is it only to loosen these and it will all come off? The driveshaft?

/big_swede


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

Hello big_swede,
If you do not have small hands and 3/8 drive metric sockets-You have to remove the cross augers gearbox and the impeller fan. The impeller(fan) will have one or two bolts and nuts holding it in place to the drive shaft. Please be careful when removing them as you can fill the swear jar very fast.

If you can provide some photos that would be helpful to the folks that do not own a yamaha.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

@Big Swede, yes.


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## big_swede (Dec 15, 2014)

I removed the bucket and the brake lining was too worn and hard to be able to brake the drum (= disengage the auger). A new brake arm complete with riveted new lining is SEK 1400 (about $ 140), but I found a firm that will glue a new lining for a lot less. Will get back once I have it reinstalled.









/big_swede


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## jrajhoff (Nov 24, 2019)

db9938, did you get Ricky back together and running? Looking for an update please.


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## big_swede (Dec 15, 2014)

Sorry, forgot.

Yes, I found a firm that glued on a new brake lining for SEK 450 (USD 53). And after re-installation it all worked like a charm!

The Ricky is now sold, got incredible SEK 6000 (USD 708) for a +25 year old blower. Yamaha's value lasts!

Only have my YS624 now to rely on.

/big_swede


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

Be sure use lot of fluid film everywhere on it that contacts snow to help preserve it and double your casting distance.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

big_swede said:


> I removed the bucket and the brake lining was too worn and hard to be able to brake the drum (= disengage the auger). A new brake arm complete with riveted new lining is SEK 1400 (about $ 140), but I found a firm that will glue a new lining for a lot less. Will get back once I have it reinstalled.
> View attachment 168326
> 
> 
> /big_swede


If the glue doesn't hold, EBay sells a strip of that braking material for approx. $10 US.
I have to re-do one on a Toro Lawnmower. I am going to try pop rivets to hold it on.


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## big_swede (Dec 15, 2014)

In my case the lining was glued by a guy that glues brake linings professionally. He had a special "half-moon" with the correct radius in order to apply hard pressure while baking the whole thing in an owen.

big_swede


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