# HS621 failed me today :(



## evident (Jan 24, 2016)

Hello, i've been a lurker on this forum since I purchased my home back in July and was researching snowblowers to prep for this winter. well, i picked up a Honda HS621 second hand off craigslist in august that seemed to be in good condition, rubber parts were all new, new scraper. turned it on every month to make sure it starts, and sure enough starts right away.

well fast forward to the blizzard of 2016 and within the first 20 minutes of digging out my driveway the auger snaps in half. 










It looks like the metal was rusted through and the person selling it painted it black. the area where it broke was somewhat rusted.

What are my options? It seems like a replacement auger assembly is ~$300 online. In all of your opinions, is it worth repairing this snowblower or should i just accept this as a sunk cost and get another blower? I'm not an expert, but the engine seems to be running ok. I mean, it starts up ok and doesn't make any weird noises (it's loud but all snowblowers are) but although it did take a few rips and 10 min to turn back on after i was inspecting the broken auger.


Another question I have is how come this blower's auger doesn't have any shear pins? It seems like other hondas and blowers have shear pins and probably would have saved this auger, i really don't know.

your opinions are appreciated. I'm pretty upset right now as I planned to do other things besides shovel today, and my body is killing me.


UPDATE in POST #14


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: Welcome to the forum evident


Sorry to see parts laying about. Hopefully one of the SS guys will be along shortly to help you with some options.

Don't know if it will make you feel any better but your not the first: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/33402-toro-auger-hs621-521-a.html


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm guessing you might need a Genuine Honda 72400-747-A12 Snow Blower Auger. Runs around $280 but I didn't shop around.
Also not positive on that part number as I ran across a -A11 too.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Wow, that sucks.

Hard to tell what it is suppose to look like. Would you be able to get by bolting it back together sandwiched between a couple metal plates or does the shape of it not really allow that?


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## ZOMGVTEK (Sep 25, 2014)

That looks to be easy enough to weld up. I'm not sure how balanced or straight it's going to be, but it shouldn't be complicated to make it stronger than new, and probably balanced enough.

I would at least try that since the part is basically as much as the blower, but it depends on if you know anyone that could do it.

How much snow did you get?


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## evident (Jan 24, 2016)

ZOMGVTEK said:


> That looks to be easy enough to weld up. I'm not sure how balanced or straight it's going to be, but it shouldn't be complicated to make it stronger than new, and probably balanced enough.
> 
> I would at least try that since the part is basically as much as the blower, but it depends on if you know anyone that could do it.
> 
> How much snow did you get?


Thanks for all your quick replies. 

Don't have any friends that can weld unfortunately. But definitely seems like it could be an option.
If i picked up another auger, i can could keep the newly welded around as a backup 

at the time we had about 20 on the ground. Just got done walking the dog and there seems to be another foot on top of the stuff we shoveled.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Unfortunately a broken shaft in not uncommon un HS621. OE Replacement is expensive, but it is the only way to go unless you or someone is willing to repair it decently balanced. The best thing about this blowers is it's engine as it is a commercial GX engine.


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## jeffNB (Nov 5, 2015)

evident said:


> Don't have any friends that can weld unfortunately. But definitely seems like it could be an option.


Find a hole-in-the wall welding/machine shop. They can so a lot of welding for $300.


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Darn, sorry to see that happen. Like others have said, seek out a welder and get it welded back up if possible.

Single stage machines like that generally don't have sear pins. The belt drive I suppose would be the stop gap system for the times they get close to clogging or get jammed.


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## NJHonda (Feb 8, 2013)

shame. I've owned 3 621's and never broke a thing on any of em. Id say pop for a new auger and be done with it. If the rest of the machine is in excellent shape its well $ to sink into it


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## evident (Jan 24, 2016)

I was able to find someone to weld the part back together for me. Should have it back today or tomorrow. If this works out and the blower proves itself worthy I may just ride it out for the rest of the season. Thanks for all your replies and I'll post updates


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## Golfergordy (Oct 29, 2014)

For Honda HS621's manufactured after serial #SZAN-1022998, the auger design was changed because they were breaking on machines with earlier serial #s. I'm curious to know what serial # you have. I'm also curious to know how your weld-repaired auger holds up, and how much that welding job cost you. Please give a follow-up report after you put the repaired machine thru a thorough test. Thanks.


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## planit10580 (Jul 21, 2015)

Hi, I am not a great believer in welding. . . . I had my auger shaft on my 28 inch, 2 stage Lambert some 10 years ago, broken at the shear pin hole, welded and it promptly broke again as soon as I tried to used it. It was explained to me that welding tends to cook the metal to which it is applied making it brittle, so it just may break next to the first spot.
Then I had a shaft cut by a machine shop and it cost something less that $ 100.00.
It was a 3/4 inch steel rod with grooves at each end to accept the spring clips that retain the shaft to the bearings, a hole to accept the shear pin, and a keyway to mate it to the driving chain sprocket. 
I am not familiar with the details of your machine, but from the picture I suspect a shaft could be made by a machinist for way less than $300.00.
Depending on your own capacity and tool availability/willingness to experiment etc. I bet you could come up with your own "Rube Goldberg" by getting a shaft of suitable size at you local Home Depot or Hardware store for about $ 15.00 . . . . .
However, please "DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME" unless you are sure you are up to it !!!!!
Hope it helps. . . .


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## evident (Jan 24, 2016)

I cant believe what just happened. So on my local town's facebook "garage sale" group I posted asking for a welder ASAP. within 5 minutes someone replied to me, and within the hour, he came to my house, picked up the busted auger, went to his shop, cleaned it, welded it, and put a coat of rustoleum on it and brought it back to me for $50. I gave him an extra $10 for his awesomeness. 

in the mean time our nice neighbor had lent us their shiny brand new craftsman dual stage blower with 6 speeds that took care of most my driveway. I was able to put everything back together and do the walkway to my front steps, and part of my deck. I would say i put it through some more tougher and deeper snow than it did yesterday. My wife had to walk in front of me and break up some of the snow just because it was so deep, but it did a pretty respectable job.































Golfergordy said:


> For Honda HS621's manufactured after serial #SZAN-1022998, the auger design was changed because they were breaking on machines with earlier serial #s. I'm curious to know what serial # you have. I'm also curious to know how your weld-repaired auger holds up, and how much that welding job cost you. Please give a follow-up report after you put the repaired machine thru a thorough test. Thanks.


My serial# is SZAN-1013710 so yeah looks like it definitely was one of the older designed augers. Can you elaborate on how the newer design is different?




planit10580 said:


> Hi, I am not a great believer in welding. . . . I had my auger shaft on my 28 inch, 2 stage Lambert some 10 years ago, broken at the shear pin hole, welded and it promptly broke again as soon as I tried to used it. It was explained to me that welding tends to cook the metal to which it is applied making it brittle, so it just may break next to the first spot.
> Then I had a shaft cut by a machine shop and it cost something less that $ 100.00.
> It was a 3/4 inch steel rod with grooves at each end to accept the spring clips that retain the shaft to the bearings, a hole to accept the shear pin, and a keyway to mate it to the driving chain sprocket.
> I am not familiar with the details of your machine, but from the picture I suspect a shaft could be made by a machinist for way less than $300.00.
> ...


this seems way beyond my abilities and ability of anyone i know, LOL. I don't think I would be doing it any time soon. If you did this, how would you fabiricate the teeth at the end of the rod? Just reuse the one from the original? 

I think i'll keep a lookout for a deal on the replacement auger assy and pounce if it's cheap for a backup.


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## Golfergordy (Oct 29, 2014)

Evident,
here's a pic of my auger (HS621 ser. # 1109988), which was manufactured after the redesigned auger was 1st factory installed on these machines. In viewing your pics and mine, it looks like the weak point on the old auger shaft design was right where your auger shaft broke, because it appears that my auger was beefed up with a collar (probably welded onto the auger shaft in the factory) right at that same point.

If I were you, I would contact the guy who sold you the HS621 last summer and tell him what happened, and since the auger was recently painted before he sold it to you (probably by him to cover up the shoddy repair of the auger), that you suspect him of knowingly selling you a damaged machine and keeping quiet about it. If he's an honest guy, he may be willing to return some of the cash you paid him. If you don't get any consideration from the guy, at least he'll know that he got caught doing a dirty deed. CL buyers have to be very careful.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

mines say 1014056. i guess i have the older design, buts it hasnt failed me yet


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## nafterclifen (Oct 14, 2015)

Golfergordy said:


> If he's an honest guy, he may be willing to return some of the cash you paid him.


Sorry, but an honest guy doesn't sell a broken/repaired part without any mention of it.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You guys forgot the most important part. He needs to keep that welders number for both future work for himself and referrals for friends.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

His welding looks a bit on the amateurish side, but if it holds up what the hey.


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## ZOMGVTEK (Sep 25, 2014)

Well now I'm interested to see how it holds up. It looks to me like insufficient penetration, and I would have put a collar or at least a plate across it to take the load off the failure point. It could be totally fine, but with a bunch of steel there you could be quite confident its going to outlast the unit.


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## evident (Jan 24, 2016)

ZOMGVTEK said:


> Well now I'm interested to see how it holds up. It looks to me like insufficient penetration, and I would have put a collar or at least a plate across it to take the load off the failure point. It could be totally fine, but with a bunch of steel there you could be quite confident its going to outlast the unit.


Well, i'll have all off season to get this thing beefed up  What do you think i should do to enhance it ? get some steel plates and have him weld it on top of the auger? My dad mentioned he may have the equipment at work to do it for me.


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## Lonstar (Jan 6, 2013)

I bought a new 621 about 25 years ago (can't remember exactly, that's my best guess). Two or three years later I hit something and broke the auger. I bit the bullet and bought a new one for it. It's been fine since.

About 5 or 6 years ago my sister needed a snow blower, so I went on Craigslist and found a 621. If I remember correctly I paid $150 for it (not that it matters, but it didn't have electric start). He said he just used it to to clean the snow off his driveway. The driveway was clear, just a few small patches of packed down snow here and there. I looked it over and ran it around, even ran it over his grass a bit to see it throw snow. Seemed fine, so I bought it and dropped it off at sisters house on my way home.

The next winter I was at her house after it just snowed. I noticed there was a very light covering of snow on the driveway, so I asking my nephew (her son) why it wasn't clear and he said the Honda blower always left a little behind. I figured the scraper was bad.

I took the blower to my house and replaced the scraper. I tested it on snow covered pavement and noticed it had more vibration that my 621, and it didn't clean off all the snow, it still left a little behind (I didn't notice the vibration when I bought it, but I'm sure it was doing it then). I took a closer look at the auger.....it had been welded. Whoever did it did a very good job, and they painted over it very well, you could hardly see the repair. The guy didn't tell me it had been welded, and it was finished/painted so well you wouldn't notice unless you were looking very closely.

I don't think you can weld an auger and get it perfectly straight, which it needs to be to work correctly. The handlebars will vibrate when the auger is engaged, right up through the bars and into your hands. The straighter it is when you weld it, the better, but I doubt you'll ever get it "as good as new".

She still uses it to this day, the little bit of snow left behind usually melts when the sun hits it, but sometimes that little bit of snow turns to ice when the temps stay below freezing. 

Just my two cents. You got it welded for a good price, your call on how well it does and whether it's worth keeping/using.


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## Golfergordy (Oct 29, 2014)

evident,
Dad doing it at work sounds like the way to go (free). Whoever actually does the add'l welding should have a good idea what to do - make sure that both ends of the shaft are strengthened in the same place. But 1st, keep your fingers crossed that your HS621 holds up the remainder of this snow season w/o any more problems.


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## evident (Jan 24, 2016)

Lonstar said:


> I bought a new 621 about 25 years ago (can't remember exactly, that's my best guess). Two or three years later I hit something and broke the auger. I bit the bullet and bought a new one for it. It's been fine since.
> 
> About 5 or 6 years ago my sister needed a snow blower, so I went on Craigslist and found a 621. If I remember correctly I paid $150 for it (not that it matters, but it didn't have electric start). He said he just used it to to clean the snow off his driveway. The driveway was clear, just a few small patches of packed down snow here and there. I looked it over and ran it around, even ran it over his grass a bit to see it throw snow. Seemed fine, so I bought it and dropped it off at sisters house on my way home.
> 
> ...


i noticed that it does leave a little bit of snow behind , not much but just a little. My scraper bar seems to be in good shape. 

another question, I've read that the force of the auger is supposed to self-propel the machine forward. is this true? It doesn't in my case.

I have to break the packed snow in front of me w/ a shovel and I have to push my way through, like a push mower that isn't self propelled. if the snow isnt packed, i have to walk it like a push mower too.
is this not normal?


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## Golfergordy (Oct 29, 2014)

I'm now wondering if any of the newer design augers have broken. These would be on HS621's of serial # SZAN-1022998 and higher. I'd be interested in hearing about anyone's HS621 in this serial # series that has suffered a broken auger, so please make a post here if your machine has had that problem.


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## Golfergordy (Oct 29, 2014)

evident,
When operating the HS621, it needs to be lifted slightly at the handle bar so that when the clutch is engaged, the auger/paddle rubber slightly touches the ground as it spins around, thereby giving the machine a small amount of forward force to slightly propel it forward. If the distance from the outer edge of the paddle rubber to the outer edge of the steel paddle is 15mm or less (according to the owners' manual) the rubber should be replaced. If the rubber on your machine falls into this needs-to-be-replaced category, the force that provides forward propulsion will probably be very weak (or non existent), and the snow throwing distance will also suffer.


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## Lonstar (Jan 6, 2013)

Yes, the blower should pull the blower forward as the auger spins. Lay on the ground and look at the rubber paddles on the auger, see if it's touching ground. Spin the auger as you look at it, the paddles should make contact with the ground the entire length of the auger, at no point should a paddle not make contact with the ground the entire time you spin it (just lightly brush the ground with every turn). This is what pulls it forward. 

The rear scraper should be even with the paddles. The auger housing (the metal 'hood' or sides) should NOT touch the ground (never ever), just the rubber on the auger. The rear plastic scraper wears quicker that the rubber paddles, that's why it's adjustable. When you see snow brushing on your feet as you blow snow (or it leaves snow behind as you go), it's time to adjust your rear plastic scraper down.

When the day comes that the metal side housing is close to touching the ground because the paddles are worn down that far, it's time for new paddles (NOT fun to break in...cut or wear in is more like it....do that in the summer with many long walks). 

I've replaced the rubber paddles my auger once in 25 years (more times with friends blowers I've worked on for them). I've replaced the rear plastic scraper 3 or 4 times.


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## Center Mass (Mar 11, 2015)

Can anyone tell me what year this HS621 was made or if the auger is subject to the issues in this thread ?

SZAN-1024940


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

Center Mass said:


> Can anyone tell me what year this HS621 was made or if the auger is subject to the issues in this thread ?
> 
> SZAN-1024940


That s/n was wholesaled by Honda to a dealer back in 1996, so the machine is at least that old, but probably no older than a 1993-94 vintage. 

FYI, that s/n was manufactured with the updated auger assembly, which had welded collars on the auger shaft.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> FYI, that s/n was manufactured with the updated auger assembly, which had welded collars on the auger shaft.


So, the updated auger design has the welded collars on it (is that the only difference?).


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## Center Mass (Mar 11, 2015)

Great info Robert, Thanks.


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## NJHonda (Feb 8, 2013)

my serial number 1027708 621 has the updated auger.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

I agree about welding it - somebody could do that for $50 easy I would think? Those things are really that much!? OUCH! I guess that shouldn't surprise me when I see how much paddle kits are too for other breeds even..... which is why I started cutting my own.
That engine is hands down my all time favorite though..... you can't go wrong keeping that thing running. Hopefully you got reasonable enough you don't feel to bad about it.


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## evident (Jan 24, 2016)

Not sure if I should create a new post or just continue my saga here...

I saw someone in my area sell two for $250 on craigslist. My thought was to purchase and keep one for spare parts, but I'm thinking i should just flip them. One has a modified auger from a craftsman machine welded onto the drive shaft (original auger probably snapped like mine did), another has the original auger with a straight shaft but bent paddle areas. Both engines are strong, start up right away and are otherwise good machines if not slightly rusted. I ordered some replacement paddles and scraper bars for one of the units. I'm hoping to flip both of them at this point for around $250 / $300 a piece, but probably won't be able to until the fall. in the meantime what else should I do to refurb these units? I'll try to post pictures when I can.

When I went to check out the units I was hoping that one would have the new redesigned auger, but they didnt. I got sucked in to taking them off the guy's hand because he lowered the price from $300 to $250 for both, including a brand new set of paddles and belt. I also already picked up a set of paddles and a scraper bar for the unit with the modded auger, which came with neither.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

That right there is how we end up with sheds full of blowers! lol I am drowning in them this year. I always go through the carbs and clean them and see if they look like they need a kit. Put a fresh plug in it and make sure the hoses aren't rotten. Grease and oil everything that needs it and if nothing is sloppy (needing bearings/bushings) I would call it a good day and wait for fall and start advertising. Sometimes I take them to swap meets if I have other stuff to mix in with it - that makes it worth my time then. You can also use them for trade for other things. I have made out pretty well doing that on occasion.


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## evident (Jan 24, 2016)

Just got the two augers back from a professional welding shop. For $120, I had them beef up the area on the shaft that cracked / is known to crack, and straighten out the auger from the newly purchased craigslist find. I asked them to put a collar around the weak area and strengthen up the weld where the previous person during the snowstorm repaired.











the one from craigslist









Original one with original repair during blizzard









Original one after getting back from the shop









afterwards i sprayed both with a coat of rustoleum rust reformer and high performance enamel. i really, really hope it doesn't break on me again!

My wife thinks i'm crazy (i kind of agree) for spending all this time on an equipment that i literally used once last year... but i dont ever want to feel the way i felt after that snowstorm ever again!


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Looks strong enough now.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Yeah - I bet it could chuck a school bus through it now! Should make a fine machine to have handy.... hope you need is this winter now! ;>P


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