# CCR 2000 (38180) Ignition Module wiring



## clattin (Jan 2, 2017)

Hey all.....I started having the common problem of my 1995 CCR 2000 not starting once it warmed up. I believe I need to put the Stens ignition module that a lot of guys have put on that solved this problem.

What I can't figure out is how to wire it in. The instructions aren't clear to me. I have a key switch that one pole is grounded to the engine block (to kill the engine) and the other wire coming from the switch goes to the coil. The only other wire coming out of the coil goes to the spark plug.

I ASSUMED I should wire the module into the wire going from the switch to the coil....but do I just splice it in or do I just cut the wire coming off the switch (which is what I have right now). But I'm thinking that if I just cut that wire and leave it hanging, the switch will no longer work.

I've attached some pics below to show where I currently am and a pic of what the coil looks like when new.....any help is greatly appreciated!

Chris


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

As simple as it seems, check the spark plug and gap. Make sure it's a Champion RN8YC, and gapped correctly. They are very particular about that. The gap is .032 I had one drive me crazy, it would run and not start again after it ran, that was part of the problem .


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Wow.. Been years since I did this repair. As far as I can remember I just screwed it down and connected the one wire. I may have run the screw through that wire connector too. I can't remember. 
How much are the modules going for nowadays? I remember buying the blower (like new condition paddles and.scraper bar hardly able to tell the machine had been used) for $40.00. The new module was around $16 if I remember correctly. Was for a Kawasaki bike.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Maybe this'll help?


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## SayItAintSnow (Dec 15, 2017)

clattin said:


> I ASSUMED I should wire the module into the wire going from the switch to the coil....but do I just splice it in or do I just cut the wire coming off the switch (which is what I have right now). But I'm thinking that if I just cut that wire and leave it hanging, the switch will no longer work.
> 
> Chris



Clattin,


No, you shouldn't end up with any wires just hanging disconnected. One wire for the module goes to ground, the other needs to be spliced into the wire that runs to the coil and the wire that goes to the switch. The other side of the switch is grounded. There is no ground wire for the coil primary because it is grounded by being bolted to the frame, and the only other connection out of the coil is for the high voltage going to the plug.


If you look at the diagram that Micah provided, you can see that it confirms the above described wiring....



Also, if I were you, I'd solder and cover that splice with heat shrink tubing. A wire nut, like in the picture is not meant to be used on a connection that could get damp or wet. If it does, you'll get gradual corrosion, increasing the resistance at the connection, and the voltage will diminish.


If you can't solder it then use crimp on connectors, and tape it up with electrical tape. (I'd even put a small wire tie around the tape to make sure the tape never comes undone.....but that's just me.....:wink2:


Let us know how this works out. I fished a little Toro Powerlite out of the trash, and I suspect the module is flaky, as sometimes it won't restart again when it's hot. After it cools down, it restarts on the first pull, every time. These Stens modules are less than 20 bucks aren't they?

.
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