# Hs928 goes forward but not reverse



## CanadaHS928 (Dec 23, 2018)

Just bought a new to me Honda HS928 track drive. I noticed the hydrostatic oil was darker than on my old hs928. So I thought I'd change it. I must note that reverse worked fine before changing the oil. So now after reading into these forums it's looking like I have to take my transmission pump out to properly bleed the air. Can this be done without removing the engine? Having some black residue(maybe rubber) down in the bottom of my reservoir tank seems a bit concerning. Also I have since dumped my fresh oil and it was dark again after maybe 20 minutes of running. I am a bit intimidated by this job. Do any of you suggest doing other maintenance while I have the blower torn apart? I would appreciate any tricks or tips. Thanks a lot guys!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

CanadaHS928 said:


> Just bought a new to me Honda HS928 track drive. I noticed the hydrostatic oil was darker than on my old hs928. So I thought I'd change it. I must note that reverse worked fine before changing the oil. So now after reading into these forums it's looking like I have to take my transmission pump out to properly bleed the air. Can this be done without removing the engine? Having some black residue(maybe rubber) down in the bottom of my reservoir tank seems a bit concerning. Also I have since dumped my fresh oil and it was dark again after maybe 20 minutes of running. I am a bit intimidated by this job. Do any of you suggest doing other maintenance while I have the blower torn apart? I would appreciate any tricks or tips. Thanks a lot guys!


before going to this extreme, how did you refill your transmission with hydrostatic oil? I have done this several times by putting the machine on it's bucket and removing the drain plug. Then would disconnect reservoir( from handlebar) and move to upright position and tie it to handle bar so it stays upright and open the cap to allow air to escape.

then fill tranny with the oil from the plug ( not the reservoir. ) after it is filled to top replace plug and put the machine back to regular position and slowly add oil in the reservoir. you can watch the air bubbles. this takes a little time until the oil is up to the first mark of the reservoir.

i also will run the engine and put it in neutral and depress drive lever. this seems to help more air to be released.

i have only done this 3 times and each time it worked. if you have already done this and it still not works in reverse maybe some Honda expert will come along with advice.

how is the forward motion of the machine? is it sluggish or faster than usual ? I would check adjustment of F/R lever as well to rule that out.

it seems like you are close to a solution if you have forward but no reverse. hoping you don't have to remove pump. i think the whole machine has to be taken apart. removing engine is easy. but i hope you don't have to go thru all that trouble.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

CanadaHS928 said:


> Just bought a new to me Honda HS928 track drive. I noticed the hydrostatic oil was darker than on my old hs928. So I thought I'd change it. I must note that reverse worked fine before changing the oil. So now after reading into these forums it's looking like I have to take my transmission pump out to properly bleed the air. Can this be done without removing the engine? Having some black residue(maybe rubber) down in the bottom of my reservoir tank seems a bit concerning. Also I have since dumped my fresh oil and it was dark again after maybe 20 minutes of running. I am a bit intimidated by this job. Do any of you suggest doing other maintenance while I have the blower torn apart? I would appreciate any tricks or tips. Thanks a lot guys!


any updates pr are you a one and done?

only kidding. hope you get it figured out.


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## CanadaHS928 (Dec 23, 2018)

I haven't done anything yet, I have to wait until my local honda dealer opens up again after the holidays to buy my third $35 jug of oil to try the oil change the third time. This time using your tip and filling from the drain hole. I will keep you (and anyone else) who's interested up to date!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

CanadaHS928 said:


> I haven't done anything yet, I have to wait until my local honda dealer opens up again after the holidays to buy my third $35 jug of oil to try the oil change the third time. This time using your tip and filling from the drain hole. I will keep you (and anyone else) who's interested up to date!


well, pretty sure this way will work for you if you were trying to fill from the top before. it created an air bubble so I'm surprised it worked in forward at all. if you take your time i think this will work. please check back. if this works it will help other owners with the same problem.

you actually may not even have to change the oil all over again. I would just try putting the machine in the service position ( on bucket )( shut off gas ) and remove drain plug and top off doing what I described in the above post by opening up reservoir tied facing up and letting air escape from there. after the oil is at top of drain plug , install plug , put machine back to floor . and warm up engine, put in neutral and clamp drive handle down while slowly topping off oil from the reservoir . you'll know you are doing it right when you see air bubbles coming to top. they will come slower and slower and just wait until they stop. then snug cap slightly and give the transmission a test.

also , Honda says this original oil is supposed to be good for the life of the machine so I never have changed mine in any of our machines. yes , i have also seen the black but as long as it works , I dont want to mess with it. Maybe other more experienced Honda owners will disagree and put their two cents in.

good luck.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

CANADAHS928..... Instead of pulling the engine I remove things from the bottom. As this is a new to you blower, I would take the auger housing off the front by removing the 10 bolts (cap screws) 3 on each side and 2 on the bottom and 2 on the top, good time to check the quality of the belts when you are there.


I then support the engine and frame and handle bars from a over head something. ( Heavy tree limb, overhead crane or 3 legged support with a light chainfall)


Loosen of the black side plates and drop the tracks, hydro unit and the right tranny. As mentioned above start fill from the little tank on top and slowly bleed out the dirty oil from the drain plug, just try to keep from let air into the system.


Once you have the oil level correct do the bleed steps mentioned in the very first bullet in the Honda forum.


Once you have the bleeding done your reverse problem should be solved.


At that point and because you have it ontop of your bench, I would check the status of your right transmission. Excellent service steps offered in the previous mentioned top post.


P.S. Where are you located?? I just outside of Kitchener and could loan you a new unopened litre of Honda Hydro fluid....


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

I changed the hydro oil on an HS once. Orangeputehs method worked for me too.

Though, I removed the drive belt ahead of time and while in service position hand turned the transmission pulley with the hydro release both engaged and disengaged a couple dozen times. I topped off the fluid a few times during this process. 

Got her back on her feet and fired her up no problems. 

The factory bleed method may be the most accurate way, but way to ridiculous.


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## CanadaHS928 (Dec 23, 2018)

Thank you all for your replies. This is where I am now. I have just finished refilling the oil from the drain plug until it came out.(machine on its bucket) I put the plug back in and filled up the reservoir until the top line(with the reservoir unbolted from the cars) now I have moved the trans pulley a bunch of times both engaged and not engaged. Filled it back up with engine oil and returned it to its operating position. Now with the tracks blocked up it will go into reverse, but it loads up the engine quite a bit and when I push into forward it makes a bit of a click and then will run full speed forward without loading the engine at all. Back to reverse and back loading up the engine. With it at idle and just engaged in reverse a few air bubbles came out but not many. It makes quite a whining sound from either the pump or the right hand trans. What do you guys suggest I do now? Again, it worked fine before. Thanks! Happy new years all.


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## CanadaHS928 (Dec 23, 2018)

I would also like to add that the further I push the stick to reverse the more it loads down the engine.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

I would suggest you have something jamming inside the right transmission. However to be sure, I would through a suggested bleeding procedure, But I expect something in the transmission.

Where are you located, if near by I could maybe drop by for a look see.....


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

CanadaHS928 said:


> I would also like to add that the further I push the stick to reverse the more it loads down the engine.


you added the new oil as suggested and still nothing in reverse? only forward? 

is forward super fast on all the way forward? just asking because maybe the the cable is out of adjustment. i hope it's not something hanging up internally.


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## CanadaHS928 (Dec 23, 2018)

I am located in Prince george BC Canada.. I suspect something jammed in the transmission too. Strange how it went from working fine, to no reverse what so ever.. didnt make any sound difference or anything, to now going into reverse and making the engine groan down. I feel like theres something going on in the right transmission too. Is there a thread in this forum that does a breakdown of the Transmission removal that you guys know about?


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Yes, an excellent one, the top posting under the Honda form.

As much as I love BC, a little far to go for a look.....


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## CanadaHS928 (Dec 23, 2018)

Thanks Contender, 

I cannot find the mentioned thread under the "honda blowers" forum page. I see one thread above mine that's to do with chute clogging.. am I missing something?


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

on your home page, select Honda SNOWBLOWERS , should be the top sticky....

Sticky: Servicing the right and hydrostatic transmission (Multi-page thread 1 2 3 ... Last Page) 

JnC


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

CanadaHS928 said:


> ... am I missing something?


Here's a direct link: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...servicing-right-hydrostatic-transmission.html


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

thanks Tabora!!!!!


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## CanadaHS928 (Dec 23, 2018)

Hey guys so before I tore into the right side transmission I thought long and hard about what could be causing my problem. What I have come up with is the steel ball that goes on the end of the "check valve bolt" that goes into the distributor plate. I had taken this out as a friend of mine also had when he did his oil change. I thought I had lost this ball so I got another and put it in. Now I checked to see if that second ball was still in there and it also is gone. I read in the manual "face the neutral valve pin up to prevent to steel ball from falling into the fluid passage" I fear this is what has happened. I think I beat the air lock with my last oil fill but now have a ball (or two) in my fluid passage and that is what is causing the engine to be worked down when engaged into reverse. So now I am back to removing the hydro pump and now unfortunately I think I have to open the pump up to search for the missing balls. What do you guys think of this.. thanks so much for your replies.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

At all costs, I would avoid opening it......... I wild thought, but if you remove the pump from the engine frame, mount it on a wooden frame of 2x4s so the plug you removed is at the bottom and the small plastic tank for adding oil at the top and start add light oil at the top and see if these balls flow out ...could be messy but a think a tare down should be the last straw.... but maybe i'm all wet...


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## bodoharimau (Nov 21, 2016)

CanadaHS928 said:


> Hey guys so before I tore into the right side transmission I thought long and hard about what could be causing my problem. What I have come up with is the steel ball that goes on the end of the "check valve bolt" that goes into the distributor plate. I had taken this out as a friend of mine also had when he did his oil change. I thought I had lost this ball so I got another and put it in. Now I checked to see if that second ball was still in there and it also is gone. I read in the manual "face the neutral valve pin up to prevent to steel ball from falling into the fluid passage" I fear this is what has happened. I think I beat the air lock with my last oil fill but now have a ball (or two) in my fluid passage and that is what is causing the engine to be worked down when engaged into reverse. So now I am back to removing the hydro pump and now unfortunately I think I have to open the pump up to search for the missing balls. What do you guys think of this.. thanks so much for your replies.


wow this is new to me . 

If i were you I would get an experienced set of eyes on this thing before a total teardown.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

contender said:


> At all costs, I would avoid opening it......... I wild thought, but if you remove the pump from the engine frame, mount it on a wooden frame of 2x4s so the plug you removed is at the bottom and the small plastic tank for adding oil at the top and start add light oil at the top and see if these balls flow out ...could be messy but a think a tare down should be the last straw.... but maybe i'm all wet...


I strongly agree! ( about avoiding to open up )

i think it would be best to have someone else look at this in person .


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## CanadaHS928 (Dec 23, 2018)

Do you guys suggest I take it to the honda dealer and have them look at it? I feel like the half hearted mechanics there would be not much better suited for the job than myself.. I priced out a new pump and its $1000 cad. Worst case If i cannot get the pump back together i buy a new one.. it's better than having this boat anchor as it sits now.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

CanadaHS928 said:


> Do you guys suggest I take it to the honda dealer and have them look at it? I feel like the half hearted mechanics there would be not much better suited for the job than myself.. I priced out a new pump and its $1000 cad. Worst case If i cannot get the pump back together i buy a new one.. it's better than having this boat anchor as it sits now.


i'm not an expert on these and could not understand your post about the ball sliding in or something like that. at least the dealer could look at it and give you an estimate. they do that free here. you can just say you will think about. I don't think you are under no obligation to let them repair it . 

you can come back here and tell us what they said.

I have brought machines to my dealer and had the mechanic tell me what it needs when I am stuck on a repair. he knows I will try fixing it myself. I'll then bring the whole crew pizzas or sandwiches in appreciation because they have helped me.

maybe if you find the pump is shot then you can buy a cheap donor machine offseason with a know good pump. A bad pump is so rare. That is why I and others suggested not opening it up and maybe get someone professional look at it in person.

anyway, that is what I would do.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

CanadaHS928, I sent you a PM......Contender


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## Lottstodo (Feb 16, 2018)

A Mighty vac brake bleed kit works fantastic for hydro air removal. I have used it on blowers, tractors , mowers. 
In the case of the missing steel ball it could maybe be used to dislodge and remove the lost balls pulling vacuum in the opposite direction of the spring pressure, thats if you can get a good seal where the seat is. The hydro fluid behind the steel balls will help dislodge and remove them under vacuum pressure as the fluid is drawn back toward the original spot where the ball is supposed to be.

May be worth a try before total teardown.


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