# Adding Hour / Tach Meter



## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Found these RunLeader hour/Tach meters made for small engine's, like lawnmowers, snow blowers, etc.... This particular one offers a few extras such as IP67 submersible water rating, clock/time, hour, tachometer, job time, RPM alarm, and 2 programmable maintenance alarms. It's $23.00 and only requires a single wire wrapped around the spark plug. Comes with your choice of 3 different color buttons (black, blue, or red). This would fit on my Ariens Pro RapidTrak 926078 control panel without covering or blocking anything. Can be mounted several different ways, including with 2 screws from underneath, zip tied, velcro, etc....
I've looked at a bunch of different hour meters, both by this company and others, but was wondering if anyone has used these or any other brands and what your thoughts were. I like to be able to keep track of hours and tachometer is a bonus. All recommendations, experiences, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Here's the link: 

http://www.run-leader.com/index.php?product/info/11/196/202/271


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

$23 is not a bad price for them. You can even replace the battery on it when it goes bad. There are a lot of other companies that make the tach/hourmeters but you cant replace the battery on them easily, and some are more expensive. I like the menu on this one that you can set for different things.
They are worth it for adjusting the governor and especially maintenance for the machine with the hour meter to keep it logged.


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## melson (Feb 9, 2015)

This one does seem to be more sophisticated than most of these in this price range. Good catch.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Yea. This company has a lot of various types of gages, including hour meters. The difference in price vs the $20.00 model, from what I can tell, is the IP 65 vs IP 67 rating. For $2.00 more, this model seems a better deal. I just ordered it. I'll post some pics.


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## Lunta (Dec 14, 2017)

I have this one, although mine came from China https://www.thesawlab.com/best-chainsaw-tachometer/

It’s ok but not great.

It’s slow as **** in cold weather and I can never remember which button to press to get it to illuminate. I usually get it wrong and end up cycling through the display options to get it back to hours. Because it’s so slow, you need to press the button and wait for something to happen. If you get impatient and press again, you find that it skips past the display you wanted, and you start the frustrating process again.

For me, it was a nice idea up until the point of installation and use.

Instead I went back to the old method: Every time I come in from blowing, I inform the approx run time to my wife, and she writes it on the wall calendar. It takes 3 minutes at the end of the season to add it all up and make a total for the winter. Checking through the calendar also brings back memories of particular snow storms, various snowblower related happenings and funny events. It’s a chance to laugh and enjoy the relief that another winter is done, and spring is on the way. Some things are better done in the old fashioned way.


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

I have a plain hour meter on my dirt bike which only reads the engine run time. I bought the hour meter from some Chinese Ebay site for a few-four dollars. Just like you describe- wrap the wire around the spark plug wire. 

Odd thing about the Chinese hour meter, is that it runs about 10 or 15% faster (more time logged) than the Yamaha's ECU clock. Not a big deal because all I want to know is an "about" hour number. 

For your hour meter, I like the idea of the built in tach. Might have to get one of those. I could use it to verify operating rpm of snowblower, boat motor, etc.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

I bought a Hardline tach hour meter that wraps around the plug wire..I don't keep it on a machine but use it to check rpm of various machines... Weather proof with a ten year battery...Max rpm memory etc Online from Walmart.. think I paid close to 40 bucks for it

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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

I have one similar, been on there for last 4 years. It automatically switches to RPM while running and to hours when stopped for about a minute then shuts off.










https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Digital-Eng...tor-d1-/352688449193?var=&hash=item521ddea6a9


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Lunta said:


> I have this one, although mine came from China https://www.thesawlab.com/best-chainsaw-tachometer/
> 
> It’s ok but not great.
> 
> ...



That's funny. I could see the same thing happening to me if this meter is too complicated. I like that it shows the time and hours ran when turned off, not running. Than when you fire up your machine it displays "RPM's" in the large , main display. I'll post pictures and let everyone know if it's any good. For $23.00, if it is confusing or annoying, I'll put it in my tool box and use it for strictly for verifying "RPM's" on various equipment.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Coby7 said:


> I have one similar, been on there for last 4 years. It automatically switches to RPM while running and to hours when stopped for about a minute then shuts off.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks great !!! I really wanted both an "hour meter" and a way to measure "RPM's". Being a snowblower, every winter is different and my usage will vary significantly from year to year. I want a way to keep track of my usage for oil changes, maintenance, etc... I'm hoping this meter is easy to use and not confusing and / or annoying (LOL). Amazon says "Friday delivery" so I hope to install it this weekend. I'll post some pictures and reviews afterwards.


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## johnwick (Dec 16, 2019)

I picked this one up on Amazon for $11. Oddly, it’s reading 0.1 in the package. Must have been “tested”. Surely not a quality issue. Haha. I have one on my generator and it’s been flawless. 

I’m concerned the battery is not easily replaceable however.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

johnwick said:


> I picked this one up on Amazon for $11. Oddly, it’s reading 0.1 in the package. Must have been “tested”. Surely not a quality issue. Haha. I have one on my generator and it’s been flawless.
> 
> I’m concerned the battery is not easily replaceable however.


I looked at that one but that was my question: how to replace the battery. Unlike most of the others where the battery is easily replaced from the back by unscrewing the plastic cap, this product doesn't have a plastic cap. It almost looks like it's a disposable unit. I don't see anywhere to replace the battery. I'm wondering if it comes out from the front somehow instead. Let me know what you come up with. I'm curious.


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## CTHuskyinMA (Jan 14, 2019)

A few months ago we lost power in a storm and I finally fired up for the first time the Generac generator I bought a few years ago. The machine had zero hours on it and the hour meter is completely dead. I pulled it from the dash and found there is no way to replace the battery (it is completely potted.) $40 Generac OEM meter with no other brand name or numbers on it. It’s past original warranty, so Generac doesn’t care.


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## johnwick (Dec 16, 2019)

@BNSFguy I’m now questioning using it on the blower. Having it go dead on my seldom used generator won’t be a deal breaker but I’d like the peace of mind of having a replaceable battery for the blower. 










You can see it’s sealed up solid, which would make it perfectly waterproof for this application as advertised. But clearly not user serviceable. 

No mention explicitly of battery life in the Amazon posting. I assume battery life is represented in the “20,000” standby hours which is only about 2.25 years. Surely not right? Yikes.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Yea, that's what I was afraid of with that hour meter (totally sealed unit). I know on the one I posted above with the replaceable batteries that you will NOT lose your data (run hours, maintenance alerts, RPM set point alarms, etc...) when your swapping batteries. It must save the information on a chip. When the engine is turned off, it displays the time/clock in the large lower box, total hours on top left box, and service countdown hours on top right box. When you fire up your machine it swaps the time/clock box to display RPM's instead. Overall, assuming it works as advertised, it offers a lot of features for just over $20.00, including IP67 submersible rating. Takes 1- CR 2450 watch battery. Check out all the pictures and product information on the manufacturer's web page below.


RL-HM058B(Black) - Runleader


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

I've had some of the other models that a lot of people used, not the one that BNSF showed, and the battery lasted from 3-5 years. Once it goes dead, everything is lost, hours and any service reminders.
You had to almost break them apart because of the epoxy on them to get to the battery.
Most times, just throw them out and get a new one. Keep a written log of your maintenance work and hours besides relying on the meter.
I like the one shown and some of the others available from the company shown in the post, and the price looks good and battery is replaceable without loosing its memory.


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## Nanook12 (Nov 26, 2019)

Shovel said:


> I bought a Hardline tach hour meter that wraps around the plug wire..I don't keep it on a machine but use it to check rpm of various machines... Weather proof with a ten year battery...Max rpm memory etc Online from Walmart.. think I paid close to 40 bucks for it
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


I just bought one of the Hardline units, has both the tach and hourmeter. I can’t find the battery life listed on the packaging. 

https://www.amazon.com/Hardline-Products-HR-8061-2-Tachometer-2-Cylinder/dp/B000FOOAXY 

These are 28 bucks and take your chances on how long the battery last. (Says up to ten years on the Amazon site).


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Nanook12 said:


> I just bought one of the Hardline units, has both the tach and hourmeter. I can’t find the battery life listed on the packaging.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Hardline-Products-HR-8061-2-Tachometer-2-Cylinder/dp/B000FOOAXY
> 
> These are 28 bucks and take your chances on how long the battery last. (Says up to ten years on the Amazon site).












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## Nanook12 (Nov 26, 2019)

The point being...when was the unit manufactured? If it sat on a shelf somewhere for three years, you have a seven year battery...Good to know about the wire gauge/length...

There is an installation PDF on their site that says 12yr battery life... 

http://hardline-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Install-spec-sheet.jpg


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Nanook12 said:


> The point being...when was the unit manufactured? If it sat on a shelf somewhere for three years, you have a seven year battery...Good to know about the wire gauge/length...
> 
> There is an installation PDF on their site that says 12yr battery life...
> 
> http://hardline-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Install-spec-sheet.jpg


I know heat kills lithium batteries..that will shorten the life.
I may not get 10 years out of it..but if I get a few I will be happy
My atomik microtemp is on its original battery..bought it in about 2005..so batteries can be made to last..let's hope these are good ones.



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## Seaweed (Jan 18, 2016)

If you have one with a replaceable battery does it lose it's memory when you change it?


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Seaweed said:


> If you have one with a replaceable battery does it lose it's memory when you change it?


I can't speak for all brands with batteries, but that Runleader I ordered on Amazon does not lose the information when changing batteries. I believe the information is stored on a chip or something. I like being able to change batteries, and with an IP67 rating, it's submersible up to 3 feet for like 1 hour, so I'm not worried about water getting inside from blowing snow. But check the ratings for the model your buying. Runleader makes a very similar model that's $2.00 less expensive and is only rated IP65 (still a decent rating, but higher IP rating is better).


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## johnwick (Dec 16, 2019)

BNSFguy said:


> I can't speak for all brands with batteries, but that Runleader I ordered on Amazon does not lose the information when changing batteries. I believe the information is stored on a chip or something. I like being able to change batteries, and with an IP67 rating, it's submersible up to 3 feet for like 1 hour, so I'm not worried about water getting inside from blowing snow. But check the ratings for the model your buying. Runleader makes a very similar model that's $2.00 less expensive and is only rated IP65 (still a decent rating, but higher IP rating is better).




I installed one of these Runleaders yesterday on my new Deluxe 28 SHO. Build quality of the device is nice and the battery is substantial. I installed to the frame using the included Velcro and the velcro has a handy hole in it to allow for easily battery replacement. 

I put about 10 minutes on it this morning. Hour meter was operating perfectly. The tach was jumping around 400-500 RPMs despite no discernible change in the engine. There might be some interference in the wire but really all I’m concerned about is the hour meter. 

Overall, I would recommend this version to anyone interested in adding an hour meter.


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## Bakeram1 (Nov 3, 2019)

johnwick said:


> I installed one of these Runleaders yesterday on my new Deluxe 28 SHO. Build quality of the device is nice and the battery is substantial. I installed to the frame using the included Velcro and the velcro has a handy hole in it to allow for easily battery replacement.
> 
> I put about 10 minutes on it this morning. Hour meter was operating perfectly. The tach was jumping around 400-500 RPMs despite no discernible change in the engine. There might be some interference in the wire but really all I’m concerned about is the hour meter.
> 
> Overall, I would recommend this version to anyone interested in adding an hour meter.




The instructions on the unit I installed on my Deluxe 28 has you adjust the number of wraps of the sense wire around the spark plug lead if the tach isn’t reading correctly. I did 5 wraps and it seems to work perfectly. 


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

SWEEEEEET. Mine should've been delivered yesterday, Friday, but I suppose with holiday shipping, it got delayed. Now says Monday.
I'm looking forward to messing with it. I think I can just fit it on my control panel. Looks to be just enough room. I'm hoping the wire is long enough to reach that far. If you have time, can you post a quick picture of where you mounted yours on the frame ??? That might be what I have to do if it doesn't work out mounting on the control panel.Thanks !!!


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Digital-Eng...tor-d1-/352688449193?var=&hash=item521ddea6a9


Click option #2 and you get that orange one for $5.42 free shipping from china.


I just picked up another runleader one


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYXX3C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


$11 from amazon and quick delivery. I did about 5 wraps too and mine is pretty darn steady to within 10 rpm or so.


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## Bakeram1 (Nov 3, 2019)

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## Bakeram1 (Nov 3, 2019)

I don’t think the sense wire is long enough to mount the hour meter on the control panel, but maybe it can be extended. 


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Bakeram1 said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the picture. I wasn't sure where you were talking about as far as where you mounted it. That's a great spot. I'll put mine there too, especially if the wire is too short to reach to the control stand. I don't think extending it would be ideal. I assume the further you go, the weaker the electrical impulse, and the less accurate the RPM measurements would be. Could be wrong though. I'm primarily using it for "run hours", although the RPM measurement is great to have too. Not so worried about the additional maintenance alarms, etc....


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## Bakeram1 (Nov 3, 2019)

I just used the Velcro that came with the unit. I did wrap the sense wire 5 times around the plug wire and zip tied both ends. There was about 6” of extra wire that I trimmed off the end after testing.
The only concern I have is that there does not seem to be an o-ring around the battery door so water intrusion might be a problem. That is one reason I mounted it vertically. I’ll have to be careful to either move it or use a big funnel when I change the engine oil, otherwise oil might drip on it.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Using the velcro means you can simply slide it out of your way for the occasional oil changes. I'll check mine when it arrives. It says it's "IP67" which is rated as "submersible up to 1 meter for 30 minutes". So I'll let you know if the battery has an o-ring or some sort of seal. Runleader has a lot of these meters in different styles and IP ratings.


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

I just drilled holes and screwed it to my metal control panel. I ran my impulse wire along my throttle cable and zip tied every so often so it won't rub anything. Ended up with three loops of extra wire on mine and I wrapped the spark plug lead about five times and zip tied it in place and wrapped with electrical tape (buy some good scotch tape for $3 a roll as it's not going to degrade as quickly as the cheap stuff).


Mine also had a small o-ring around the battery door, pretty easy to miss as it's very thin.


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## johnwick (Dec 16, 2019)

BNSFguy said:


> SWEEEEEET. Mine should've been delivered yesterday, Friday, but I suppose with holiday shipping, it got delayed. Now says Monday.
> 
> I'm looking forward to messing with it. I think I can just fit it on my control panel. Looks to be just enough room. I'm hoping the wire is long enough to reach that far. If you have time, can you post a quick picture of where you mounted yours on the frame ??? That might be what I have to do if it doesn't work out mounting on the control panel.Thanks !!!




Here’s where I put mine.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

johnwick said:


> BNSFguy said:
> 
> 
> > SWEEEEEET. Mine should've been delivered yesterday, Friday, but I suppose with holiday shipping, it got delayed. Now says Monday.
> ...


Hey that looks great. Looks pretty easy to do too. Good pics. Thank you for sharing. My meter should be here tomorrow, Monday. But not sure I'll have time to install with Xmas week and inlaws in town.


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## Nanook12 (Nov 26, 2019)

Installed the Hardline tach/hour meter today. Then re-jetted the HSS928A and gained about (guessing) 200 RPMs. Installed a silicone heat pad under the engine. With the new jet, my RPMs are at 3580 - 3600 at full throttle, 2220 - 2230 at low stop setting.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Ok. So going to hook up my new Runleader Hour meter. I'm not exactly sure where I'm supposed to attach the wire. Instructions (attached below) state: "4 stroke installation, wrap pick-up wire around head of coil". Yet it than states: "wrap the signal wire around the spark plug, wrap it 4 to 5 turns, and fasten it with a zip tie cable to ensure it's sufficiently fixed and will not loosen."
On my Ariens, the spark plug wire has this heavy steel covered spark plug cap, or lead. I assume it's to protect it from the nearby heat from the muffler. Anyway, it will be difficult to wrap the actual spark plug in this narrow space, yet I'm not sure I can wrap it around the top of the spark plug wire just above this steel shield and have the meter work properly. Any help as to the exact location to wrap this wire would be greatly appreciated. This looks to be a bigger PITA than I anticipated. Thanks for all suggestions.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Wrap it before the metal boot...the area just before it turns into a boot

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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Shovel said:


> Wrap it before the metal boot...the area just before it turns into a boot
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


Great. Thanks. One last "stupid" question. Please bear with my ignorance: do you "strip" the wire (say bottom 2 inches or so) and wrap just the copper strands around the spark plug wire or do you try and wind the plastic coated wire as tight as you can around it 5 times like in my picture below ??? If so, how do you actually get it to stay tightly wound around the spark plug wire without it falling off (zip tie, electrical tape??) 
I feel like an idiot even asking, but I'm a completely ignorant on how this exactly works. Hopefully a few guys get a good chuckle and a few others, like myself, it helps out. Thanks for your patience.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

BNSFguy said:


> Great. Thanks. One last "stupid" question. Please bear with my ignorance: do you "strip" the wire (say bottom 2 inches or so) and wrap just the copper strands around the spark plug wire or do you try and wind the plastic coated wire as tight as you can around it 5 times like in my picture below ??? If so, how do you actually get it to stay tightly wound around the spark plug wire without it falling off (zip tie, electrical tape??)
> I feel like an idiot even asking, but I'm a completely ignorant on how this exactly works. Hopefully a few guys get a good chuckle and a few others, like myself, it helps out. Thanks for your patience.


You don't strip it.
You have it wrapped right ..I use a clothes pin to clamp it on to make sure it will pick up alright...then do it permanent.



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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Shovel said:


> BNSFguy said:
> 
> 
> > Great. Thanks. One last "stupid" question. Please bear with my ignorance: do you "strip" the wire (say bottom 2 inches or so) and wrap just the copper strands around the spark plug wire or do you try and wind the plastic coated wire as tight as you can around it 5 times like in my picture below ??? If so, how do you actually get it to stay tightly wound around the spark plug wire without it falling off (zip tie, electrical tape??)
> ...


OK. Great. I just tested it. It was reading 3750 RPM @ idle and maxed out at 6000 RPM's as soon as I throttled up. I believe I have all the settings correct, set at "4 stroke / 1 cylinder" and I set the RPM range of which there are 4, to the lowest setting "0 - 6000 RPM". 
So by reading the instructions, it sounds like I need a loop or two less, perhaps 3 or 4 loops instead of the 5 I set initially per the instructions. I used electrical tape to wrap the wire tightly around the spark plug wire.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

BNSFguy said:


> OK. Great. I just tested it. It was reading 3750 RPM @ idle and maxed out at 6000 RPM's as soon as I throttled up. I believe I have all the settings correct, set at "4 stroke / 1 cylinder" and I set the RPM range of which there are 4, to the lowest setting "0 - 6000 RPM".
> So by reading the instructions, it sounds like I need a loop or two less, perhaps 3 or 4 loops instead of the 5 I set initially per the instructions. I used electrical tape to wrap the wire tightly around the spark plug wire.


Often an engine with a charging system will read double..so you will have to use another setting to trick it as you are reading double.. you probably have four choices 




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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Ok. FINALLY got it all installed and working correctly. Just a heads-up in case anyone else buys this Runleader Hour/Tach gauge: 

you need to set the the "spark plug firing revolution" to setting "1P1R" which is set for "4 stroke 2 cylinder / 2 stroke 1 cylinder". This happens to be the default setting. But I initially set it to "1P2R" 4 stroke 1 cylinder" and the RPM's are wayyyyy off. I tried changing the wrapping of the lead wire around the spark plug in every different configuration from 1 wrap to 5 wraps. It never corrected it. The RPM's at idle read 4250 and immediately maxed out at 6000 RPM's the second you touch the throttle. I just happened to see a tiny little note at the bottom that stated: "some 4 stroke engines must be set to 1P1R setting of 2 stroke 1 cylinder." Immediately upon changing that setting in the meter, with 3 wraps, my RPM's looked perfect, maxed out at 3650 RPM's.
Lastly, there's enough wire to mount the meter on the front panel and snake it thru the left side handlebar, out the bottom, and up underneath to the spark plug. I used the screws that come with the meter and mounted it solidly to the front panal. You can use the velcro they include if you prefer, but I figured it might become harder to actually change the battery with the velcro possibly tearing up the sticker on the front panel. So I drilled 3 holes, 2 mounting holes and 1 hole for the wire to go thru. Throw two "wing nuts" under the panel and whenever you need to change a battery, it's a 5 minute job. It works really well.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

To wrap go back under your wire on first loop..don't pull tight.. do three or four round.. to the same on last round..stick excess back through first wrap .. pull tight.. alot of people use twist ties when done

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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Shovel said:


> BNSFguy said:
> 
> 
> > OK. Great. I just tested it. It was reading 3750 RPM @ idle and maxed out at 6000 RPM's as soon as I throttled up. I believe I have all the settings correct, set at "4 stroke / 1 cylinder" and I set the RPM range of which there are 4, to the lowest setting "0 - 6000 RPM".
> ...


Bingo !!!! I just figured that out. You are 100% correct. This particular meter offers you 8 different settings, from 2 stroke / 1 cylinder up to 4 stroke / 16 cylinders (now that would throw some snow (lol)). You don't use the 4 stroke / 1 cylinder setting as I found out. Gotta use the 2 stroke / 1 cylinder setting on these motors. Thank you everyone for the help. I greatly appreciate all the comments. I hope I can reciprocate somehow in the future.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Do first wrap with that loop.. last wrap same.. shove excess back through first loop pull tight.. some people use ties after that.
Clothes pin is what I use as I don't keep em on permanent.. I just use as an RPM checker.. couple fast loops clothes pin it and fire it up









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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Closer up









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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

BNSFguy said:


> Bingo !!!! I just figured that out. You are 100% correct. This particular meter offers you 8 different settings, from 2 stroke / 1 cylinder up to 4 stroke / 16 cylinders (now that would throw some snow (lol)). You don't use the 4 stroke / 1 cylinder setting as I found out. Gotta use the 2 stroke / 1 cylinder setting on these motors. Thank you everyone for the help. I greatly appreciate all the comments. I hope I can reciprocate somehow in the future.


Awesome... Can check idle rpm on the family car if need be as well lol



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## Nanook12 (Nov 26, 2019)

Put the Hardline on mine


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Nanook12 said:


> Put the Hardline on mine


Looks great. That Honda had a lot of room to mount it. Great job.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Shovel said:


> Closer up
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Shovel, a big "thank you" for all the help and pictures. Really appreciate it. I wrapped it around 3 times and used electrical tape to secure it. Probably not the greatest with the hot and cold temps, but if it comes loose, I'm going to do it the way you posted. Thanks again.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

Been following this thread since it started and will be placing my order for the Runleader via Amazon today. Thanks for the images and insight/guidance. Will post images for anyone looking for an install on a Deluxe 28. Question for BNSF Guy - am I correct in seeing that the clock reads 24 hr time? That is preferable to me.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Clutch Cargo said:


> Been following this thread since it started and will be placing my order for the Runleader via Amazon today. Thanks for the images and insight/guidance. Will post images for anyone looking for an install on a Deluxe 28. Question for BNSF Guy - am I correct in seeing that the clock reads 24 hr time? That is preferable to me.


That is correct on the clock: reads military or 24 hour time. It does not have a setting to change it, so 24 hour time is what you get, which in your case is good. Me too. I'm former military and work the railroad. I've lived my life on a "24 hour clock". My wife still doesn't get it (lol).


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

BNSFguy said:


> That is correct on the clock: reads military or 24 hour time. It does not have a setting to change it, so 24 hour time is what you get, which in your case is good. Me too. I'm former military and work the railroad. I've lived my life on a "24 hour clock". My wife still doesn't get it (lol).


 Thanks for the info. I checked the "dashboard" on my machine, and it doesn't have any extra real estate for your type of easy install. I have an idea though and will share with the group when mine is completed. 



Same here (military) and I also worked overseas. As I told my kids, if you go to an airport, train station, marine terminal, bus/subway station etc. anywhere other than the USA, the time will be in the 24 hour format. Taught them from day 1 and shocked one of my friends one time when I asked my two daughters to show him their iPhones - time was in 24 hour format.


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Please post your hour meter install. It's great for others interested to get ideas and see what works on specific machines. If you buy a Runleader, go thru the various models in their product line. They offer quite a few models, separated by just a few dollars, offering various options. I choose the specific model HM058B because of the "IP67 submersible" rating and replaceable battery. I'm pleased with the features, quality, and installation hardware (velcro and studs, nuts, washers).


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

I ordered and installed the Runleader HM058B last spring and just recently started the engine to see that it works well. My thanks to all contributors to this thread that made the install so easy by helping explain the problems and solutions. 

It is mounted on the left of the dash control panel with the supplied velcro. There is lots of sensor wire to do the installation and the spare wire is under the dash on mine. Attached is a pic of the dash with Tach installed.


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