# Help - I can get a good big machine for free, but can't move it



## johnny-canuck (May 4, 2015)

I don't have a picture yet, but externally I see:


Craftsman (all Red/Black Craftsman colors)
30" width
Dual stage 
11.5 HP Briggs & Stratton "Intek" engine
If I recall correctly its speed control has 5 or 6 Forward speeds and 3 dots in Reverse (which I guess might imply 3 reverse speeds?)

It also has a Sears Canada sales/order label stuck on it that shows a date of 2004-10-28 and a Sears item # 52470

Searching for Sears 52470 I found a notice published by Sears Canada in June 2007 re a potential safety hazard with the B&S engine in the models it listed. (Over priming can cause excess fuel to overflow into the carb and ignite). But the important thing is in models listed it showed that the "Sears Item Number 52470" was "Snow Blower Model Number C944.52470".

Thanks to the link to the Vintage Models site I found in these forums (Craftsman OEM List | VintageMachinery.org) it tells me that 944 = Husqvarna (and I knew previously that the C indicated Sears Canada). The same notice indicates "Regular Price 1799.99" 

The above is the background to the machine I'm looking at ... now to my problem.

The woman I'll be taking it over from, hasn't used it in the last 4-5 years and I suspect it was hardly used much even before it stopped being used. There is no Owner's Manual and I've never dealt with a big hulking 2 stage monster like this beast is before so don't know how to do even very basic things with it.

Q: how would I go about tracking down an Owners Manual for it. 

Q: I need to back it out of the tiny shed that it's in, but can't. The 2 wheels don't turn like I expected them to ... in hindsight, I guess because they are driven wheels and the motor's not running. Do I need to have the engine running before I can back it out?

Q: I'm hoping it might have an electric start because there's no room in the little shed to pull the cord to start it, but I haven't spotted a place for a plug yet (the little shed is also dark). Since it's been sitting unused for a number of years I suspect I'll have trouble starting it. If I can't get the engine started I guess that means I need to put the wheels on a dolly to drag it out?

I'd appreciate any suggestions anyone has for my predicament. Thanks.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

As long as it is friction disc and not hydrostatic it should roll right out as long as the drive clutch isn't engaged. It could just have the reduction gears, axles and chains rusted.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

1. should be easy to find something close enough to an owners manual, they are pretty basic.
2. you should not have to start the engine to roll the machine, are you depressing the handle for the wheel engagement? if so, dont, it should roll freely without the handle depressed. if it wont, dont try it with the engine running until you investigate why.
3.it should have an estart plug in , you must just be missing it.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Are the tires flat?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Post on this site asking specifically for the manual for that model and do a web search with google, ask, bing ... anything that works. Might have a paper copy on ebay.

Without the "drive" lever on the handlebar being pulled down it should be disengaged and will roll no matter where the shift lever is. If it's not rolling than something might be rusted in place.

I've always muscled them around even one old 32" ariens that I couldn't get into neutral (geared trans). Had to pull it up a driveway but for twenty five bucks I wasn't going to lose it.
It likely won't start if it's been sitting but you can try. At least put in some fresh gas first. That size engine came with an electric starter but there is no telling if it's still there. Need a flashlight to find it on the side of the engine and follow the cord up to where the plug would be.

If it has chains it might just be the chains making it feel like it's locked up until you can get a good pull. In tight quarters with chains, the chains can act like a wheel chock and keep the wheel from spinning until you really pull it.

The warning about over priming goes for any gas engine equipment. The whole purpose of that primer bulb is to shoot excess gas into the carb so I wouldn't be concerned about the bulletin.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum :welcome:

Forgot to say that the first time. Please add your location to your profile.

It is a Canadian Model because it starts with a "C". That will make getting info a bit harder.


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## johnny-canuck (May 4, 2015)

Thanks for all the comments / suggestions. Now I at least have some idea of what I need to do when I go back and investigate the machine some more.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

even if it is the gears and chains are rusted in place and the tires are flat if you pull hard enough it will move. It may be a big machine but you should be able to move it. It does not have to have the engine running as stated above unless it has a hydrostatic drive and it more than likely doesn't.

If the machine is free and not rusted out it is well worth getting. Once you get it come back here and we will help you get it running.

these things are pretty hard to kill unless the engine has thrown a rod or the gearbox is toast.


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## AL- (Oct 27, 2014)

Hi! and nice that you have found a treasure. 
You say the wheels don't turn as you expected them to. Do they turn at all ? What happens if you tip the front of the machine up by pushing down on the handles at the back. I would think that if they are seized they would roll backwards by however much you can rotate them.


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## johnny-canuck (May 4, 2015)

*finally got back to look at this machine again*



CarlB said:


> even if it is the gears and chains are rusted in place and the tires are flat if you pull hard enough it will move. It may be a big machine but you should be able to move it. It does not have to have the engine running as stated above unless it has a hydrostatic drive and it more than likely doesn't.
> 
> If the machine is free and not rusted out it is well worth getting. Once you get it come back here and we will help you get it running.
> 
> these things are pretty hard to kill unless the engine has thrown a rod or the gearbox is toast.


Thanks ... I appreciate all the helpful posts but I'll single out CarlB's as the one I'll continue with.

I've attached a picture of the back of the machine and it's controls. I've made some progress in terms of trying to figure out how to simply back it out of the shed. (And I also now can see where to put a plug to use it's electric start, but I haven't tried to actually start it yet. That will be the next challenge).


With reference to the new picture I've attached, if I simply squeeze the small red lever hand control on the left side in the picture, it frees the left side wheel and it now will turn, but only in a circle that pivots on the right side wheel that continues to be "locked".

The right side wheel has a pin through it that I tried removing ... thinking that it might allow it to move ... but it doesn't. It's still "frozen" / "locked up". 

This afternoon when I was there, I shot it up with some penetrating oil, rust blaster kind of stuff and next time I get back there I'll see if anything has changed. (The right side wheel "hub cap" (all I can really see on the right hand whee and it's shaft) looks pretty rusty, so I'm hoping that the wheel shaft is rusted / seized up and that's what's preventing the right wheel from rolling freely ... not some other control I haven't found).


I continue to appreciate any other comments suggestions from folks that know how to deal with these beasts.


PS: Good news as well, is that the Sears Safety Hazard notice from 2007 that I tripped across, says Sears will come out and do the safety repair on site / where the machine is ... and as a bonus replace the spark plug and change the oil. (I haven't pursued this yet, but I plan to. If I manage to get Sears to come out and do the safety hazard repair, I suspect the tech that comes as a freebee will also know why the right wheel is locked up and possibly help me free it up if I haven't already figured that out. He might also manage to get the machine started for me. Another challenge that I'm going to have.


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## johnny-canuck (May 4, 2015)

I'm not sure if my new picture got posted. I'll try again, just in case I screwed up with the previous one I tried to attach.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I found some info on the Sears Canada search. From your picture it looks like it has a free wheeling rod at the lower left of the tractor assembly indicating it may well be a hydro. There are no notches in the shift lever for forward and reverse normally seen on friction wheel drive machines either. I'd try pulling that little lever straight out towards you and see if the wheels free right up. (Rod shows up better in your picture above)








Found this site with Canadian Sears products. Read how he breaks the codes down to using the "944" and then the first digit after, (yours a "5").
Click the "sears skydrive link" near the top, pick the 9445xxxx and scroll down

My links below you need to right click on them, select copy link location, open a new tab and paste into your browser. I can't get them to hyper link direct. Got them to somehow, don't ask how.
Sears Canadian Download
Found this 52470 "2" Manual
https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx...3784f3ae6ff28d!941&wacqt=sharedby&app=WordPdf


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## AL- (Oct 27, 2014)

johnny-canuck said:


> Thanks ... I appreciate all the helpful posts but I'll single out CarlB's as the one I'll continue with.
> 
> I've attached a picture of the back of the machine and it's controls. I've made some progress in terms of trying to figure out how to simply back it out of the shed. (And I also now can see where to put a plug to use it's electric start, but I haven't tried to actually start it yet. That will be the next challenge).
> 
> ...


Vibrations are great to brake internal rust, Maybe hammer without damaging anything would help.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If it has that rod to free wheel it has a hydrostatic drive like a lawn tractor.


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## johnny-canuck (May 4, 2015)

jtclays said:


> I found some info on the Sears Canada search. From your picture it looks like it has a free wheeling rod at the lower left of the tractor assembly indicating it may well be a hydro. There are no notches in the shift lever for forward and reverse normally seen on friction wheel drive machines either. I'd try pulling that little lever straight out towards you and see if the wheels free right up. (Rod shows up better in your picture above)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks! JT ... I think I might be cooking with gas now thanks to your help in tracking down the manual and suggesting where I need to look.

The manual describes "freewheeling" mode and the control lever that's likely in the area you pointed to in my picture.

I'll give it a try when I get back to the machine again. It looks and sounds very promising.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

What did they do build the shed around the blower? :icon_smile_big:
That blower just about fits in there.

Just get another hand to help you drag it out in the open?
Two bodies should be able to lift and drag it out?
Or lift it up and get a dolly under it?

Tear the shed down!? 

Looks to be in good shape?


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

johnny-canuck said:


> With reference to the new picture I've attached, if I simply squeeze the small red lever hand control on the left side in the picture, it frees the left side wheel and it now will turn, but only in a circle that pivots on the right side wheel that continues to be "locked".


Squeeze the red levers on both sides and both wheels will freewheel easily unless one of the cables is broken (this happens frequently enough) but if all else fails just drag it out. I've moved more than my fair share of them that way.


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## johnny-canuck (May 4, 2015)

*my saga continues*



94EG8 said:


> Squeeze the red levers on both sides and both wheels will freewheel easily unless one of the cables is broken (this happens frequently enough) but if all else fails just drag it out. I've moved more than my fair share of them that way.


I got back to the machine this afternoon and did as suggested. The red lever on the left side works normally and does allow the left wheel to turn freely on the axle. Still no luck with the right wheel though, however I finally did simply manhandle the machine and got it out in the open now where I can see it and work on it.

I took off the 2 wheels, the black plastic wheel housing cover on both sides and can now see what the small red levers on each side >> are << doing on the left side and >> are not << doing on the right side.

I'm attaching 3 pictures that might help show what I'm trying to say. Pic 1 and Pic2 show the left side wheel when the small red lever is not squeezed and when it's fully squeezed ... when it's fully squeezed the pictures hopefully show that a locking mechanism in the wheel housing has disengaged from a gear on the wheel's axle.

Pic3 shows the same view, but on the right wheel side of the machine, which isn't turning. Squeezing the red lever on the right side only causes a tiny bit of movement in the linkage that I'm guessing is meant to disengage the gear from the axle, in a way that's similar to what I can see happening on the left side.

I tried poking, prodding and turning various parts of the linkage to try to get the locking mechanism to disengage from the gear on the axle but can't.

Any other thoughts would be much appreciated.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I know it says husqvarna, but should be same.


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## johnny-canuck (May 4, 2015)

jtclays said:


> I know it says husqvarna, but should be same.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9WrMEh8zyo


Thanks JT ... I happened to notice this video myself the other day and had actually brought the dry lube spray with me, but didn't actually try it because after I got the wheel cover off to look at the axle & the "dogs" that hold it, I couldn't see > any < movement of the "dogs" themselves ... just a tiny bit of movement in the linkage that's meant to move the "dogs".

But I'm going back again tomorrow, so will give it a try. In the video the machine the guy is working on appears to be working fine already, and I think he's just showing preventative maintenance that you can do to prevent them from "sticking". In my case they appear to be more than just "stuck" ... because it seems more like they're actually seized.

I'll use some PB Blaster ( / penetrating oil kind of stuff) first and let it sit for a day to see if maybe that frees them up enough to followup by shooting the movement with the dry lube spay.

Based on the way I can't get them to budge even a tiny bit right now, I'm skeptical, but I'll give it a shot (nothing to lose).

PS: I understand that my Craftsman machine was actually built for Craftsman by Husqvarna so the video is appropriate. My model is different of course, but I guess I have an issue with what the video refers to as its "power steering" feature.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

You may try to use a little "gentle persuasion" with a wood block buffer. 

And seeing a picture of it, wow what a score! That machine is looks to be just a few years old.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

You could just lift the machine [wheels] off the ground, two people are better and drag it out. Looking at that machine, the adrenaline alone should should do it. Great find.
Sid


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## johnny-canuck (May 4, 2015)

Sid said:


> You could just lift the machine [wheels] off the ground, two people are better and drag it out. Looking at that machine, the adrenaline alone should should do it. Great find.
> Sid




Thanks for all the help and encouragement I've been getting.

I think I now finally see the problem I have with the right wheel, and why it doesn't just spin freely when I use the little red right hand lever (it's "power steering" control) which I think according to it's owner's manual should release the "locking mechanism" that prevents the right wheel from spinning freely (either with engine off or when being driven). (The red lever and the identical wheel mechanism on the left side works normally and allows the left wheel to spin freely, when the lever is squeezed).

I'm attaching a picture of the problem as I see it. (It's a "Craftsman" machine but was built for them by Husqvarna). Husqvarna tech would probably know exactly what to do ... I'm obviously not a Husqvarna tech. I just happened to stumble across one of their machines).

I'm attaching pic4 that shows the problem I'm trying to figure out how to fix. (The picture is poor, but hopefully might show someone what I'm trying to describe and give me a suggestion on how to correct it). At this point the only solution I can see is to disassemble the right wheel mechanism and then reassemble it so it works properly. It's something I likely should leave to a profession shop but I'll be cautious. (I'm very experienced at trying to repair things that probably were repairable, but didn't warrant the cost of a professional repair, until I tried and ended up with an unrepaired pile of junk :redface 

It's hard to describe, but I'm attaching a) the picture (poor) that shows the problem and b) an exploded view from the owners manual of the wheel mechanism.

The problem I see is that the "dogs" that normally should be sitting and spinning freely in the spaces between wheel "gear", are actually sitting >>on top<< of the teeth of the wheel gear ... and so are squeezing the gear (that should be turning) into a permanently stuck position.

PS: Penetrating oil etc. hasn't made a difference. A bit of gentle persuasion with a wood block and hammer hasn't budged anything either.


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## GtWtNorth (Feb 5, 2014)

Great find for a free machine! My two cents, for what their worth, you are on the right track with the parts you highlighted, especially#24 the slide, clutch. I marked up one of your photos to clarify what I'm trying to explain.









You can verify how things work by comparing the working side to the stuck side, when you pull on the release trigger. 
So, when you pull on the trigger, that pulls the actuating cable, which thru a couple of levers, pushes the clutch arm outward (away from the body), which in turn slides the clutch ring outward (the clutch slide is trapped & controlled by the 4 retainer pins in the clutch arm) & disengages that wheel. When you release the trigger, the return spring pulls the arm back in & re-engages the wheel. Assuming all is properly aligned & well lubed.
So, make sure the cable and all the actuating levers are working properly. If so, then you have a problem with the clutch assembly. It's frozen up from rust or perhaps jammed from abuse.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

jmo, but if it runs i would run it around the yard, fwd and rev ,with the other wheel disengaged and see if that loosens things up.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I'd say heat would be the next step, but I don't know if there is anything plastic involved. I suppose you could try a drift punch with a direct persuasion technique, but I'm not exactly sure of the metal involved, and would fear deforming one of the dog's and permanently wedging it in.


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