# Blower goes in reverse but not forward



## KRuzer

I have a Model # 536886350. Basic problem is there is no forward in any gear unless I lift it off the ground. Reverse is fine and has plenty of force. It was being used recently going through snow banks with out any problem. I was doing a walk and was moving fine. I put it in reverse, backed out and put it in forward. From there it wouldn't move. I googled the problem and got many friction disc problems. The wheel rubber is in good shape. No flat spots, missing chunks. The wheel goes firmly against the friction disk when the lever is used in any gear. I cleaned the disk just to make sure any oil might have got on it. What I didn't understand is why I have reverse and no forward. What also found is the chain that goes over the sprocket that is attached to the hex shaft looked worn. I put the machine on a couple of blocks so I could see the underneath. I grabbed the friction disk and turned it as it would going forward. The chain can skip the teeth with a good amount of force. With all this said, is the sprocket just worn out or is there something else. Like I said I don't understand how the forward just quit all of a sudden. Is this a possible solution?


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## Motor City

Try adjusting the drive cable. for the friction wheel. You may not have enough engagement. Check the owners manual for any other friction wheel adjustments. Also, inspect the friction wheel for contamination, such as oil.


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## KRuzer

Motor City said:


> Try adjusting the drive cable. for the friction wheel. You may not have enough engagement. Check the owners manual for any other friction wheel adjustments. Also, inspect the friction wheel for contamination, such as oil.


I have the cable as tight as possible. The wheel and disk were cleaned. What I'm trying to find out and looked through countless forums is why I have reverse and no forward unless the machine is off the ground. If the friction disk was no good or dirty with no grab, wouldn't I lose reverse too? Reverse can push me back on snow pack ground and I weigh 225. That's how it moves in reverse, just slides over right? And the wheel does move from one side to the other. 

I have the manual and nothing there other then the friction disk.


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## Motor City

The friction whee does just slide from one side to the other. You may have reverese, because of the way the wheel has worn. Could the cable be stretched nad your still not getting good engagement? I'd have to say it though, sounds like you need a new friction wheel.


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## KRuzer

Motor City said:


> The friction whee does just slide from one side to the other. You may have reverese, because of the way the wheel has worn. Could the cable be stretched nad your still not getting good engagement? I'd have to say it though, sounds like you need a new friction wheel.


 Well I ended up jacking up the machine and setting the tires on blocks and the chute against the wall. Cranked it up and C-clamp the lever down. ( this is how much I hate shoveling) I laid down behind it to see what's going underneath. Sort of like an insects view. What I saw was the chain that goes on the disc jack shaft just staying still but the little sprocket spinning away. I haven't taken it apart yet but I can see wear the teeth are worn to a point that look like knives. With weight on the drive it would skip. With no weight the chain had just enough grab to spin the tires. When I was cleaning the friction wheel and plate, I could grab friction wheel and make the chain skip the sprocket by hand. I wanted to verify it running before condemning it. I still don't know how the reverse works. The machine wasn't in the best spots to find out.

Is this a rare problem because I have not found another like it online.


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## KRuzer

Got my part in today and plan on installing it this weekend. I've read that this is not a quick and easy job. If anyone reading this and has done one on a model or similar model like mine installed one before? Just looking for a few things to make it go easier.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I went to sears (partsdirect.com) to take a look but the diagram is less than helpful. My suggestion is to take a lot of photos so you know where that part in your hand is supposed to go once you're going back together with it. 

Maybe someone with the model will be more helpful, sorry.


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## KRuzer

I started to tear into this tonight. From what I could find on this job which was very little is the bolt the holds the right side of the jackshaft and goes into the bearing is ridiculous to get to. This is the back one. I found this out. I've got the axle out, hex shaft out and the friction plate up. I can't get a wrench on it. Even if the head of the bolt was lined up I can't spin it. I added a picture of it. If you look at the right gear, you can see the bearing. I've got the front bolt off.









Any help with this would be great.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Maybe if you post a photo with the drive axle and friction disc shaft out the description of what you're trying to do would make more sense ??

Have you figured out how reverse works yet ? If not this might help
.


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## Eyeboltman

Good luck . Looks like my sears 9 hp machine I think My is 15 Years old 
! 

Any more photo what size and year . Good luck .


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## KRuzer

I've added the picture of it torn down. The bolt you see is the one that I can't figure how to get out. One poster here had said he held the bolt and spun the bearing which is threaded. I can't spin it much because the shaft behind it sticks out. It's the welded end of it. I did get a 1/2 open end on the bolt but can only spin it maybe a 1/4". I can't flip it or the does the boxed side fit. The poster said he had grounded the top of the wrench. I'm going to get a ratcheting open end. Of course if I do get it out with it, getting it back in might be a problem. The shaft looks more then a pain in the ass then the bolt to get out. I really don't want to remove the whole disk assembly. There has to be a way I'm missing. Take a look at the little sprocket. The chain was just gliding over it. I believe when in reverse, the teeth was catching just enough to move it. I'm (in the event I don't scrape this thing out of frustration) going to replace the chain. Yes that's mouse hair.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Wow, the teeth on that cluster are just gone. Looks like it was never lubed in there  I don't know how to get to that screw but when it's light out tomorrow I'll flip my Murray up and pull the pan as it looks similar to that one. 

Have you tried to remove the flat plate yet ??


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## Eyeboltman

Good luck , Look in my snow blower book But no luck .


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## KRuzer

Well I finally got that little ******* of a bolt out. I tried different variations of bent wrenches that were abused by a grinder. Tried removing the shaft that pushes the friction plate. I couldn't get to the cotter pin on the right side. Thought about breaking all the weld tacks and removing the whole cover then welding it back on. Finally I got a wrench on the bolt. I pushed the bearing forward. Took of the wrench and turned it back and just repeated it. Then took a pair of needle nose and did it till the bolt let go. 

When I pulled it all out and looked at it I notice one chain is slightly longer. I counted the links which was twenty but one chain has a master link. I'm guessing the reason? I ordered a new chain for the worn sprocket and master link. 

Putting the bolt back in looks to be just a big of joke too.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Good reason to grease chains yearly


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## KRuzer

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Good reason to grease chains yearly


Which it was. Spray lube before they are put away.


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## cpchriste

I bought a similar machine with the same drive problem and the same sprocket wear. Finally got the shaft replaced and resolved to just never touch another green craftsman. No real resolution on how the sprocket could have gotten that way except guessing no sprocket hardening or inadequate provision in the design for chain stretch.


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## KRuzer

cpchriste said:


> I bought a similar machine with the same drive problem and the same sprocket wear. Finally got the shaft replaced and resolved to just never touch another green craftsman. No real resolution on how the sprocket could have gotten that way except guessing no sprocket hardening or inadequate provision in the design for chain stretch.


The other sprockets are fine with normal wear. Actually little wear. I knew it had some slack when I would do the post winter storage routine but there is no adjustment. I have a new chain coming in soon. I'm curious to match it up with the old one. 

As far as the green craftsman, the only complaint I have with it is the handle bars and how they are bent. Not really comfortable especially when I have two rip rotor cuffs. It's been a pretty reliable tank in the snow regardless of depth. The 10 hp and 29" really never let me down in the 18 yrs I've owned it since new. Just a little sprocket.


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## KRuzer

Finally got this thing back to together. Had to experiment different ways to get the back bolt back on. Putting the other chain that goes on the hex shaft needed some trial and error too but not close to the bolt. Cleaned the friction disk with brake cleaner to get the dirt and grease off plus a few other maintenance things. I started it up and drove it into a large snow, ice crusted bank. It dug right in with no slipping. I've got a garage full of bikes. From MX'ers to drag and hill climbers. This thing has been the biggest pain in the ass compared to any of them.


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