# por-15 rust encapsulator



## ih8thepackers (Jan 4, 2014)

My Ariens 8526 has some rust inside the bucket around the impeller, I would like to address it this spring.and I don't want to tear it all apart to get the rust.I thought about using some sort of rust remover,and encapsutator.then get some Ariens orange paint,or some sort of orange that matches.I thought if I get some por-15 I can use a brush to reach the rust..I was wondering if anybody has used por-15 or a similar product before.if so how did it work?


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## whimsey (Oct 16, 2014)

Make sure you remove all loose/flake pieces of rust, but don't go to bare metal totally, it needs to bond to light rust. You can brush it on. Be careful because it stains really nasty. If you get it on your flesh it's going to be there for a while. 

Whimsey


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## caddydaddy (Dec 10, 2014)

I've used POR-15 on cars, and it's great stuff. There's a bunch of similar brands out there as well.


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## sr71 (Mar 25, 2013)

Great stuff - works as advertised ….I will repeat…do not get this stuff on your skin.


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## topher5150 (Nov 5, 2014)

get elbow length gloves, and cut three holes in a garbage bag (like a shirt) to cover your torso, and do the same with your legs, then cover the rest of your exposed skin in saranh wrap.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

you are going to have to use their primer to tie that rattle bomb spray paint to it.


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

I agree with all the above advice. POR-15 dries like rock. I did my impeller two years ago and it still looks great. One should use two coats. I only cleaned with degreaser. My impeller was quite rusty on my 94 Craftsman.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

POR-15 is great stuff. I used it on the sub frame connectors on my Mustang 14 years ago and they still look mint. As others have pointed out, wear gloves and don't get that stuff on your skin.


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## threeputtpar (Jan 16, 2014)

I used that stuff on a discharge chute upgrade I made on my smaller blower. Two coats of the stuff and it looks really good. It's very thin and runny, so painting it on a vertical surface may be tricky as it will run.

I second the wearing of gloves and clothes you'll be throwing away afterwards. Nothing but an angle grinder will remove this stuff once it sets.


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## Quickrick (May 2, 2011)

I have used Duro's brand and others with great success. It is some sort of acid, so as the others mentioned, you will want to avoid getting it on you (goggles on if under it).

It is actually rust convertor, so it converts the rust to something else. To remove all of the rust would give it nothing in which to bond to so, you need a rusty surface...go figure! 

You can either paint over it or not, but painting it makes it durable. I used it recently on that rusty steel drive shaft on my pick-up. They never paint those and they look really bad really fast. Two coats is what is recommended and seems to work best. It reminds me of painting with whole milk because that's the consistency. 

QR


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## PAFirefighter11 (Oct 13, 2014)

We sell it at my work:
Search Results - Quadratec

Works great! I used it on all rusted spots on my Noma. Like others have said, this hardens tough! I may actually coat my cutting board skids with it as well.


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## Quickrick (May 2, 2011)

*rust convertor*

Pa.,

Great idea that never occurred to me.

QR


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## driz (Dec 19, 2013)

POR is good stuff but pricy. Also don't get carried away with it and put it up top and do the whole exterior as it will fade badly in sunlight. If you do you will have to scuff it and topcoat with a paint that has some UV protection in it. There's nothing uglier than faded orange. It's like titty pink mixed with vomit yellow...................
Also if there is flake or anything that can be scraped off get it off of there or it will surely fall off later. on.


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