# New member - just picked up a 10000 series on Tuesday



## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

Hi everybody,

Name is Ryan and I am the proud new owner of a 1970 7hp 24 inch Ariens 10000 series. Spent the past few days familiarizing myself with these machines and figuring out what year this one is. Haven't been able to get the tractor model number yet because it's either covered in some black gunk or the paint is worn off (kind of visible in the engine tag picture). Haven't spent any time trying to clean it yet.

Picked it up from an older gentleman on Tuesday who said it was used very little. Runs good except it stalls if I turn the choke off completely, so probably needs a little adjustment. I about ran the sucker into some stuff in the guys garage when I test ran it and let go of the handle! Didn't realize it was squeeze the clutch to stop :surprise:.

I live in Orange County, NY and now that I brought this thing home it's probably not going to snow this year. But I sure hope we get dumped on soon so I can try it out.

Looking forward to learning how to properly maintain this beast and thankful for all the information I have been finding on here.

I also have an older Ariens ST 2+2 that I have never had any luck getting running but now that I know about this place I may give it another go. My driveway is pretty small so really only wanted this machine for dealing with the plow line.


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## knu2xs (Jan 6, 2015)

Hello Ryan & a big *WELCOME ABOARD* from Michigan!


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

Thank you sir!


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Glad to see you with such a robust classic blower, Ryan. That machine will last you a lifetime..just don't slip and fall with in in gear! Any engine problems down the road, the Harbor Freight Predator is an easy and efficient swap...will keep that girl blowing another fifty years.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Stalling? Carb may need cleaning, bad gas.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Wow! Great find, she's a beauty.
You dont often find them in that great condition..
Welcome to the forum!

Scot


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Stalling? Carb may need cleaning, bad gas.


Has fresh gas in it but i'm guessing the carb could benefit from running some seafoam through it. Going to give that a shot first and see if I can get it to run with the choke completely off.


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

sscotsman said:


> Wow! Great find, she's a beauty.
> You dont often find them in that great condition..
> Welcome to the forum!
> 
> Scot


Thank you for the welcome. I enjoyed reading your info page yesterday. Thanks for putting that together sscotsman.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Mr_Ramsey said:


> Thank you for the welcome. I enjoyed reading your info page yesterday. Thanks for putting that together sscotsman.


Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it..
Btw, im pretty sure you actually have a 1969 Ariens, not a 1970. 
I'll write up some reasearch about why, tomorrow..

Scot


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Yes, squeeze the clutch handle to stop.

Then shift into neutral - sometimes you may have to pull a bit harder on the clutch lever to get it to catch, it can hang up slightly going from any forward gear to neutral, or from reverse to neutral. It's a bit of a feel type thing with the clutch handle. You'll know it's functioning properly and you've "caught neutral" when you can roll the snowblower around with ease. 

These series have a neutral catch, which simply put holds the friction disc away from the drive plate always which means the snowblower will not move in F or R if the engine's running and engine clutch is up (on). If working properly, the attachment rakes will still turn (assuming the sno-thro clutch handle is "in" and engine clutch is up) but the machine will not run away from you once the clutch lever is released.

You'll know it didn't "catch" when even though the shifter will show that you're "in neutral", the friction disc will still be touching the drive plate and the machine may move on you slightly. If the engine is off, the snowblower simply will not move with the clutch lever released.

I run mine as such. 

Shifter in neutral, sno-thro clutch handle "out" (pointing to 3 o'clock), engine clutch up (off). Start the engine. If I have a distance to move the blower under power to the snow I want to throw, engine clutch down (on), then back to handlebars to pull clutch handle, shift into desired gear, then release clutch handle and you're moving but with no attachment rake revolutions.

Once you get where you want to begin, pull clutch handle to stop, shift back into neutral. Then go to the engine clutch and pull down (off), then grab the sno-thro clutch lever and turn clockwise to 6 o'clock or "in", then engine clutch back up (on). Back at the handlebars, pull clutch lever, shift, release to both move and plow snow. Then reverse these once done.


You get used to it, and after a session or two it becomes second nature. Your 3rd image attached shows the sno-thro clutch directions perfectly, the engine clutch is just to the left of this and goes either down (not engaged) or up (engaged). The clutch handle is the lever on your left handlebar.

If you haven't already, go to this link, find your owner's manual. It's pretty much the bible on the 10,000 series. Near the bottom are the service and owner's manuals links. 

https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page5.html

Of course you can always go here also and plug in the required information.

Ariens Order Owners Manuals


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Here's a good pic of my 910965 as she sits with all the levers and clutches in a full neutral position. I can move the blower around easily like this, and this is how they are situated when I start the machine.


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## russkat (Feb 25, 2015)

Nice machine Ryan !!!
I picked up a 1974 yesterday, let us know how it works for you when you get a chance to use it.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF Mr_Ramsey

Nice looking Ariens :thumbsup:

.


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

Mr_Ramsey said:


> Has fresh gas in it but i'm guessing the carb could benefit from running some seafoam through it. Going to give that a shot first and see if I can get it to run with the choke completely off.


It worked! :grin: Put a couple of ounces of seafoam in and ran it for about 30 minutes this morning. Had to leave the choke on halfway or it would stall. Ended up pulling off the heater box and making sure all the linkage was moving around ok. The combination of those things seems to have it running with the choke off now.

I did notice that full throttle on the control is not full throttle on the carb. Is that normal or could I maybe need a new spring or something else? Also my throttle control doesn't want to stay in the full throttle position. Should the control be more "clicky"? I'm thinking the nub on the control is worn down and doesn't stay at full. It kind of slides back down.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Mr_Ramsey said:


> It worked! :grin: Also my throttle control doesn't want to stay in the full throttle position. Should the control be more "clicky"? I'm thinking the nub on the control is worn down and doesn't stay at full. It kind of slides back down.


My 910962 does this. Pull full throttle, it tends to slide back down a little bit, to say 80% full throttle, after roughly 30 seconds.

I'm thinking it's a return spring tension issue of some sort, but I rarely run the machine at full throttle anyway so I haven't dug into it yet.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Full throttle on the carb, as in wide open? It shouldn't be . . . . thinkmof the throttle plate as power, not RPM, and it will make more sense. At low or no load, it does not take much throttle to get to the correct speed (about 3600 RPM), but under load, it needs a lot more . . . . So, unless something is grossly out of adjustment, incorrectly installed, or stuck, this sounds normal to me. Does it bog down under load? If not, then I vote don't mess with it . . .


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

tadawson said:


> Full throttle on the carb, as in wide open? It shouldn't be . . . . thinkmof the throttle plate as power, not RPM, and it will make more sense. At low or no load, it does not take much throttle to get to the correct speed (about 3600 RPM), but under load, it needs a lot more . . . . So, unless something is grossly out of adjustment, incorrectly installed, or stuck, this sounds normal to me. Does it nog down under load? If not, then I vote don't mess with it . . .


Yep.

These got a lot left in the tank RPM speaking. They are set up to run 3600 for a reason - so they won't detonate.

I got an HSSK engine on my parts machine 922002 that appears a PO removed the high speed RPM linkage adjustment screw assembly off to get more RPM's. I'd pull on the throttle to full and it went to an RPM that surprised me it didn't explode immediately.

The engine to me sounds like it's about to give way (when I shut it down, there's a slight squeal that I'd describe as bearing squeal), and is leaking oil out through down to the bottom cover like something already has grenaded in some fashion.

If you put a tach on it and it tops out around 3600 as it should, leave it alone.


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

tadawson said:


> Full throttle on the carb, as in wide open? It shouldn't be . . . . thinkmof the throttle plate as power, not RPM, and it will make more sense. At low or no load, it does not take much throttle to get to the correct speed (about 3600 RPM), but under load, it needs a lot more . . . . So, unless something is grossly out of adjustment, incorrectly installed, or stuck, this sounds normal to me. Does it nog down under load? If not, then I vote don't mess with it . . .


Haven't had a chance to use it yet. Will have to see how it does if we get some snow. Now that I bought this beast it probably won't happen. Off to go find something to cover it with before it rains later.

Need to do some cleaning in my shed to try and make room but in the meantime it's going to be outside.


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

tlshawks said:


> My 910962 does this. Pull full throttle, it tends to slide back down a little bit, to say 80% full throttle, after roughly 30 seconds.
> 
> I'm thinking it's a return spring tension issue of some sort, but I rarely run the machine at full throttle anyway so I haven't dug into it yet.


Yea, when looking underneath the throttle control it looks like it should click into place but i'm sure 48-49 years has taken its toll on the metal nub and it's not staying put.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Just to let you know - if you don't have a small engine tach, there's a few Youtube videos out there with an H70 equipped snowblower. 

These engines have a certain "sound at the correct fast throttle RPM's". If yours sounds like those, you're probably good to go where it is. That's how I knew my HSSK was over-revving big time. 

And if you resolve the throttle slipping back a bit on it's own, post it here so I can fix mine!


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## Bluejoe (Nov 29, 2016)

Thatsa nice


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Mr_Ramsey said:


> It worked! :grin: Put a couple of ounces of seafoam in and ran it for about 30 minutes this morning. Had to leave the choke on halfway or it would stall. Ended up pulling off the heater box and making sure all the linkage was moving around ok. The combination of those things seems to have it running with the choke off now.
> 
> I did notice that full throttle on the control is not full throttle on the carb. Is that normal or could I maybe need a new spring or something else? Also my throttle control doesn't want to stay in the full throttle position. Should the control be more "clicky"? I'm thinking the nub on the control is worn down and doesn't stay at full. It kind of slides back down.


Throttle Cable Needs to be Replaced. The "Nubs" that Hold Throttle position are worn out.


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## 132619 (Nov 20, 2018)

welcome ryan
best of luck with the machine ,

as the crow flies we are about 3 miles apart via our roads about 10 to the hospital area, should you need help fire off a Pm, i'm old and anal but sure willing to help others in need 
with a 12 incher down already around us i'm thinking repeat of the winters of 87/88 and 95/96 and 03/04 dec 2008 ice storm plus helloween 2011 ,think you know of those


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

Jackmels said:


> Throttle Cable Needs to be Replaced. The "Nubs" that Hold Throttle position are worn out.


That's what I figured. Looks like OEM throttle controls are available through Ariens at about $50.


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

33 woodie said:


> welcome ryan
> best of luck with the machine ,
> 
> as the crow flies we are about 3 miles apart via our roads about 10 to the hospital area, should you need help fire off a Pm, i'm old and anal but sure willing to help others in need
> with a 12 incher down already around us i'm thinking repeat of the winters of 87/88 and 95/96 and 03/04 dec 2008 ice storm plus helloween 2011 ,think you know of those


Hello neighbor! What town are you in? I'm closer to Sugarloaf than the Village of Warwick.

I was here for helloween in 2011. That was a surprise. This last storm we only got about 8 where I am. It was while I was shoveling that I figured I better start seeing what was available on Craigslist.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Mr_Ramsey said:


> That's what I figured. Looks like OEM throttle controls are available through Ariens at about $50.


I might be able to save you a few bucks. PM if interested


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Jackmels said:


> Throttle Cable Needs to be Replaced. The "Nubs" that Hold Throttle position are worn out.


Jack, you were correct with this for my 910962. 

At first it looked like the lever itself was bent slightly away from the slots, but after bending it back into proper alignment, it still wouldn't hold. The cogs on the lever I believe are worn down just enough (like they're simply rounded off on the edges) to where the return tension pulls the throttle back.

So, I removed the assembly from my parts 922002 and swapped that in, along with slightly longer mounting screws because the '002's lever pivots on a nut and bolt to the throttle frame, where with the '962 it is pressed into the frame.

Holds full throttle now though, so good to go. Thanks!


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## Mr_Ramsey (Nov 29, 2018)

tlshawks said:


> Jack, you were correct with this for my 910962.
> 
> At first it looked like the lever itself was bent slightly away from the slots, but after bending it back into proper alignment, it still wouldn't hold. The cogs on the lever I believe are worn down just enough (like they're simply rounded off on the edges) to where the return tension pulls the throttle back.
> 
> ...


I played around with the throttle cable on mine this weekend and replaced it with one I got from Jack. The actual problem ended up being where the cable shroud mounts near the carb. I put my original back on because the faceplate is in better shape than the new/used one. I ended up just adjusting the mounting a bit and my original cable stays at full throttle now. Of course It doesn't go all the way to off position now. Tried more adjustments but couldn't get it to work perfectly on both ends. I'd rather have it locked into full throttle position than off position anyway. One thing I did notice though is that even when it was slipping out of full throttle a little, the actual throttle lever on the carb was in full position so it didn't seem to be affecting anything anyways. Now I have a backup throttle cable in case something happens to my original.


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