# (First Post) HS724 Impeller Removal Help



## andrewspearns (Nov 11, 2013)

Hi - This is my first post on this site, I've just recently found it and it seems to be a great resource.

I am in the process of refurbishing a used HS724 (unsure of the letters that go after it, but it has electric started and electric chute controls) that I picked up at the end of last winter.

I have the auger/impeller housing and tracks disassembled, there are some bearings and belts that need to be replaced. I have replacement belts on hand, and have some 6203 and 6004 sealed bearings ordered to go on the end of the auger shafts, and the front drive wheels for the track. I also have to replace the impeller shaft bearing, it is attached to the back of the impeller/auger housing with a flange that is secured by three 10mm bolts.

My problem is that I am not sure how to remove the impeller from the auger housing. It seems that the impeller pulley is attached to the shaft, I thought that I could just remove the pulley and go from there. 

I am ordering a shop manual from eBay, however I am hoping someone on here can provide some guidance in the meantime.

Thanks in advance.
Andrew


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Welcome to SBF Andrew. My best advice would be to wander over to YouTube and search Donyboy73's channel. If it's legal to do with a snowblower, he will have made a video about it. 
Seriously, he works on yard equipment for a living and he explains everything step by step.
Good luck.
Larry


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Andrew, Pulleys are usually set to the impeller shaft with Allen type screws and a key to the shaft.
You can remove all the obvious bolts and still have set screws in the coupling. It can be difficult to remove even with the set screws pulled all the way out. Corrosion and tight tolerance may require some PB Blaster and elbow grease (to include a hammer).
Look around for something directly connecting to the impeller shaft behind the pulley and between the pulley and back of auger housing. They rarely just slide off the shaft, even new.
Pictures of what you have to deal with would help the smarter than me guys here get you going.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

I have an HS 80 which is an older Honda model. That said, if I'm interpreting your issue correctly, you have to remove the entire auger assembly (which will be attached to the impeller via the impeller shaft and gearbox) to actually remove the impeller from the shaft or housing. If you have separated the tractor from the auger housing, the last major thing you have to do to remove the augers is remove the 10mm bolts on the left and right of the housing that are holding the augers/shaft in place.

If it's only the pulley that's stuck on the back of the shaft, you may have to use some persuasion in the form of a gear puller or heavy center punch and hammer. Soak good with PB blaster first... 

If you get it stripped to this point, remove the augers from the left and right gearbox shafts and coat with anti-seize. Hopefully they aren't frozen on...

Good luck. Keep us posted with pics of your renovation...


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## andrewspearns (Nov 11, 2013)

Thanks for the replies - I will take some photos of the issue, and check out Donyboy73's channel.

Will also post some photos of the project as I go.


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

andrewspearns said:


> I am ordering a shop manual from eBay, however I am hoping someone on here can provide some guidance in the meantime.


That's going to be your best bet; it's an extensive procedure to remove the blower (impeller) since you need to pull the auger housing off first. The shop manual will guide you through the process with nicely detailed illustrations and complete steps.


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## andrewspearns (Nov 11, 2013)

Thanks [email protected], I am going to order the manual however your diagram helps me tremendously. 

If I read this diagram correctly, the blower/impeller fits over the pulley shaft. I will have to apply some heat to break this free. Mine is most certainly seized, which would make the blower shear bolt ineffective.

I will block up the blower from rotating, heat the connection, and try to turn the pulley behind the auger housing to break things free. 

Thanks
Andrew


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

andrewspearns said:


> Mine is most certainly seized, which would make the blower shear bolt ineffective.


Spot-on. When you get it back together, slather some suitable grease along the shaft as a preventive; good idea to do this on the auger shafts as well. 

I've seen a number of guys drill & tap in some Zerk grease fittings to make this chore easy to do each year without disassembly.


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## andrewspearns (Nov 11, 2013)

[email protected] said:


> I've seen a number of guys drill & tap in some Zerk grease fittings to make this chore easy to do each year without disassembly.


Brilliant - I was thinking of using some anti-seize, but this is an even better idea.


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## gb387 (Oct 27, 2013)

Andrew--- I just bought a HS828 used, similar in construction to yours. I did all the same about a month ago to mine. I didn't put any grease zerks in but rather used alot of anti-seize. I found it rather quick to remove the auger and plan to do this every spring once the snow stops just to make sure everything is in working order.

I did have to heat up the augers to remove them from the gear box but I did NOW have to heat up the impeller, this was spinning free for me. The youtube videos helped me tremendously I am sure you will find them very helpful as well!! I replaced all the shear pins with the PROPER shear pins, 3 new bearings. I opted to paint the inside of the auger housing, impeller and augers to hopefully help the snow slide out easier. All was surprisingly easy and if you have all the parts on hand it can be done fairly quickly.


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## andrewspearns (Nov 11, 2013)

Thanks for the replies - I went out tonight, heated the impeller shaft with some MAP gas for about 5 minutes until it was nice and hot, put a piece of 2x4 down through the chute, and then grabbed the impeller pulley (with a pair of gloves on) and applied as much force as I could. It did some free, and I was able to remove the impeller, then remove the 3-10mm bolts, and then the bearing and pulley came off. 

The impeller bearing at the back of the auger housing is toasted, I will post a video to show how badly it was worn. Previous owner did not take care of it, I think he used it for some commercial purposes and then sold it off. I got it pretty cheap, knowing full well that I would have to put some work into it.

My augers came off easily when I took things apart. The impeller was the seized part on mine. When I reconstruct I am going to either use anti-seize or put in a grease zerk, probably the anti-seize for now to simplicity and will make it an annual maintenance item.

I have my HS828 apart in many pieces right now. I will post some photos and videos of the before and after over the next couple of weeks as I get a chance to replace worn bearings and repaint some of the pieces. I have the main portion of the machine sitting on some lumber with no track assembly or auger assembly/housing attached. Looking forward to getting it back together with new bearings, fresh paint, and some new belts.

The work light is broken on mine right now - I am debating replacing it with an LED work light for added brightness.


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## andrewspearns (Nov 11, 2013)

gb387 said:


> I found it rather quick to remove the auger and plan to do this every spring once the snow stops just to make sure everything is in working order.


I found the assembly of the auger to be very intuitive, front removal is a great idea. My previous machine was a Craftsman 30"/11.5HP and I had to replace the impeller on that one as well (hit something in a snowbank, ice maybe) as it was buckled. For that it was much more difficult to work with.


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## gb387 (Oct 27, 2013)

As for replacing the light my honda puts out AC voltage you might want to check yours. Don't think a standard 12V dc light will work.


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## andrewspearns (Nov 11, 2013)

gb387 said:


> As for replacing the light my honda puts out AC voltage you might want to check yours. Don't think a standard 12V dc light will work.


Thanks - mine has a black and red wire, with a white plug at the end. I will see what that means, I'm not savvy on electrical.

The previous owner broke the light off and threw it away. There is a cracked bolt in the bracket that I have to remove before adding the light.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I got everything off to replace the impeller bearing. i removed the 3 10mm bolts and removed from bucket. now i have the auger pulley and the bearing on the shaft but it does not want to come off. the 3 point flange where the bolts go into moves around fine. 

is there anyway to remove this bearing without a puller and not damaging the shaft?


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