# How Best to Work This Metal On Damaged Auger Housing?



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I bought this hs1132 from an older gentleman that admitted to me that he did not realize how much damage he was doing until he took it in for a service.

The rest of the machine is in excellent shape. The techs at the Honda dealer told him he would need to buy a whole new housing for $1000 so he sold it.

They said it would be impossible to repair but I am of the mind that nothing is impossible.

I originally thought about cutting out sections and welding new pieces in but I was told by several mechanics that the metal can be "worked" back into place so a new guard can be installed.

I was told to use a ball-peen hammer and do spot welds as I go along. Does this sound about right to you experienced metal workers?

How do I bend back over the parts near where the studs go for the guard without breaking them off? I don't want to use a chisel cause I think it would break off metal.

also, after I get everything in place with spot welds, then do I run beads thru the whole cracked sections? 

any advice would be appreciated. added some pics so you can see how damaged this puppy is.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Holy cow, what's left of the augers!? You can weld that back together with new metal. It will be very time consuming but possible. The problem is the gentle curve that the bucket makes. You will need to try to make that curve as well. 

Just shooting from the hip here.... Its hard to see the full scope of the damage from pictures.

I would probably buy a new shave plate and bolt it into place using the bolt holes on the side of the bucket which I assume are still intact. Then like an I-beam tack weld a straight STRONG piece of rectangular bar onto the shave plate so it keeps its form. Then gather my new sheet metal and bolt it to the shave plate and work it up into place and mate it with what's left of the bucket. 

All said and done you'll likely need a strong straight piece to reinforce the sheet metal just above the shave plate to keep it true after you remove the temporary re-enforcement on the shave plate. Welding does funny things with the shape of thin metal, a lot of bowing bulging and shrinking.

Any thoughts on using the gx340 to supe up your other machine? You have a hs928 right?


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

A couple gallons of Rustoleum and you should be good to go. Ouch ! 

People should be arrested for performing that kind of cruelty to a snowblower - especially a Honda.

I would look hard for one with a bad engine or tranny and use its bucket. You have a lot of work ahead of you.

Keep us posted on progress. Maybe you can but a trashed 32" off brand, and try to weld in pieces of its bucket. Or, maybe you can get a fender or door from an auto junk yard which may be close to the right curvature.


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

How the **** does one do that kind of damage?


-efisher-


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Wow. That is quite a mess. 

For trying to match the curve of the bucket, perhaps you could cut a bunch of long, narrow strips of sheet steel. And use a bunch of those to approximate the curve of the bucket (each strip would be at an angle relative to the one next to it). It wouldn't be a smooth radius, think of it more like a octagon than a circle. The narrower the strips, the closer you can come to a radius. The strips would have their length going left-right in your pics, and the narrow directions would be along the curve of the bucket. 

Some people have made devices to help them bend sheet-metal at home, if you wanted to use larger, continuous pieces, perhaps with multiple bends, to again approximate a radius. See post #4 of this thread: 
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/re-powering/109498-sears-10-32-repower.html

I'm curious if there's a technique to straightening bent sheetmetal without breaking it. drmerdp's advice sounds good to me. 

Any metal will be inclined to bend and warp when you weld it. So the more welds, the more likely they are to distort. Starting with tack welds that are spread along the length seems like a good idea, to help keep the two items aligned, before you start the "real" welding. 

Welding thin metal can be tricky. You can melt through, creating a hole in the metal, rather than building up the weld you wanted. One way to help give yourself some leeway is to use a backer. An extra piece of metal you put behind the two items you're welding, it provides a "backstop", at least providing physical support if you overheat things, so the metal doesn't just melt through and make a hole. Note, however, that this must be a different material, which will not weld to the other items. If you're welding steel, you can use a copper backer, aluminum, etc. This is an example, at Harbor Freight, but you can use a suitable piece of scrap that you have around: 
Welding Spoon

Also, you don't want to leave the tips of cracks. That sharp point at the tip of the crack will make it want to continue growing in the future. You can drill a small hole at the tip of a crack to help stop it, for instance (this reduces the stress concentration). I would at least put a small weld at the end of a crack, if you didn't want to drill it. 

Good luck! 



RIT333 said:


> People should be arrested for performing that kind of cruelty to a snowblower - especially a Honda.


Agreed. Doing that to any machine would be a shame. And to a Honda, ouch. I'd love to have a Honda, so to see someone misuse one that badly is sad.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I see it, not difficult.

You cut out a perfectly rectangular section all the way to the sides. It has to be square. Best is a plasma cutter. Otherwise a jig saw. You use that as a visual guide to bend the new metal. You take the new metal cut width and length to the old metal, put the new metal in a roller bender, go back and forth, and shortly you have the new metal bent, rolled, identical to the old. Now you weld it in.

You have to call around or visit who has a roller bender.

Try VoTech schools, auto body shops, blacksmith shop, best bet is going to be sheet metal fabrication places, machine shops, and a custom auto or motorcycle shop. The latter rolls fenders and makes gas tanks. Custom auto rolls fenders and body panels.


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## 524SWE (Jan 20, 2017)

cutting out and replacing the worst sections and hammer and dollying the others, remember when you hammer and dolly metal it stretches some and also "work" hardens becoming thinner and somewhat brittle. you're never going to get it looking "factory but probably serviceable is possible. quickest way is to plasma cut out all the damage and roll up some curved pieces to replace whole sections at once, time consuming but less than a $1000. or...if you've got a lawn and garden salvage yard near you like I do you might find a used bucket for few $$$.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I'm just thinking out loud, but might a long handle shovel (a dirt-type shovel) be about the right curvature, and also pretty strong steel. A couple of shovels might be enough.

I have an awesome push shovel that is probably 50 years old - it was my Dad's - and it is wide enough and certain;y heavy enough. Since you are in no hurry, just walk through stores, and pretty soon, everything will look like a Honda snowblower bucket ! Just keep your eyes open, and think outside the box.


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## RAYAR (Mar 7, 2015)

WoW! A person that has the skills and experience of working with and welding sheet metal would have that fixed up quite easily.  They use such light weight metal now-a-days for things that should be built a little more rugged. Myself, I would replace that section of the housing with a much heavier piece of sheet metal, then drill the required holes for the scraper bar, which I would also make out of something heavier than originally on there. Of course, I have the tools and materials at my disposal.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Maybe find a similar model at a dealer or in a repair shop and bring a piece of cardboard and a marker. Mark the contour of the bucket onto the cardboard, then trace the contour onto a piece of 1/4 inch plywood to make a template to give you a pattern to work the new metal curve to the template. This assumes that the contour is the same all the way across of course.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

orangputeh,

There is a forum member that has an extra HS1332 or HS1132 auger housing in your area (don't know how close). Maybe you can get him to sell it to you....


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

This is the member...
Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums - View Profile: E350


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

Can be done, take your time. Not my best work, did it quick for a flip. 
Now you can practice on your welding skills rather than just swapping it out.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

thanks everyone. I know I have my work cut out for me.

i messaged that member about the 1132 box. hopefully I can salvage this one somehow. It's a real shame on what happened to it.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

If you need augers, get them for HSS1332, they are the same as HS1132/1332 replacements but for some odd reason less expensive..... (you may need to upgrade the gearbox shaft kit, as all the Honda HS/HSS augers had been upgraded to 18mm instead of 20mm of the older ones).


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> If you need augers, get them for HSS1332, they are the same as HS1132/1332 replacements but for some odd reason less expensive..... (you may need to upgrade the gearbox shaft kit, as all the Honda HS/HSS augers had been upgraded to 18mm instead of 20mm of the older ones).



the augers are fine.( by the looks , haven't tested ) the guard took the abuse instead of augers.

i did watch the augers work before buying. did not see/hear anything wrong.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> the augers are fine.( by the looks , haven't tested ) the guard took the abuse instead of augers.
> 
> i did watch the augers work before buying. did not see/hear anything wrong.


With the damage that I see on the auger housing, I'd expect to have at least partially ground down auger serrations, but maybe it is not the case........


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> With the damage that I see on the auger housing, I'd expect to have at least partially ground down auger serrations, but maybe it is not the case........


a couple teeth are bent but overall i was surprised how well they look. the guard was probably adjusted too low. it is toast. got a new one from boats.


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

e.fisher26 said:


> How the **** does one do that kind of damage?


It almost appears that someone forgot that they had removed the Scraper Blade, and then used it for a season without the beneficial protection it provides for the bucket.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

It looks horrific but shouldn't be that difficult if the rest of the machine is worth it. I would get the proper gauge sheet metal (or a touch thicker) rolled to the same contour and weld it up to the INSIDE of the housing, overlapping the good metal, and cut away all that ragged stuff. Any metal shop should be able to do that. Or wait for a similar unit with a blown gearbox or engine to come your way and make one good blower from the two.

I know you just got a welder but you'll need a cut off tool and maybe a die grinder and wheels as well.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I would probably take a similar but slightly different tact than has been mentioned. First I'd use a torch and some hammer and dollies to straighten out everything I could to as close to original profile as possible. Being I don't have a metal roller, I'd look for a junk auger housing at least as wide as needed and hopefully at least as thick of metal. I would look into whether cutting out old metal and welding in new vs shaping it properly and plug welding it to the outside of the housing made the most sense and go from there. 


Kind of depends on whether looks are important or not. Then there's the question of how bad the auger rakes and gear box are in.


Just some thoughts.


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## Fat City (Feb 11, 2017)

*Repair bucket with 1 / 16 [ or similar ] sheet metal*

What I would do is, take measurements of length, and width [ wide enough to cover damage ] and use a piece of sheet metal, applied from outside, to cover damage. Begin by removing paint try stripper first, many Japanese paints laugh at stripper, in that case, metal must be ground bare . 36 Grit sanding disk, tool marks don't matter, bare metal does . Drill and bolt sheet metal into place, than use a torch to soften sheet metal, use two hammers, or a hammer and dolly to pound sheet metal to snugly fit over damage.
MIG Weld patch to bucket, start at better end, work towards more severe damage . It will never be perfect, but should be usable, after all, it's a repair, not a restoration.


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## Fat City (Feb 11, 2017)

The only problem I see is, when you weld, the shaft may wind up getting spot welded to the rotor, making it impossible to get rotor off later. If this is a concern, remove rotor from shaft, and insert Copper, or Brass pipe into rotor. This way, any drips of metal won't stick to shaft. Remove paint prior to repair . If your welder has a TIG machine, and he takes time to let small welds cool, damage will be minimal . If all he has is ARC or MIG, the inserted pipe would be needed.


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## Fat City (Feb 11, 2017)

Somehow I got the posting confused with the MTD with damaged rotor . See " Can this be welded ? ' which is where second posting belongs . Either way, remove paint, work small area, let cool, go to next area.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Fat City said:


> What I would do is, take measurements of length, and width [ wide enough to cover damage ] and use a piece of sheet metal, applied from outside, to cover damage. Begin by removing paint try stripper first, many Japanese paints laugh at stripper, in that case, metal must be ground bare . 36 Grit sanding disk, tool marks don't matter, bare metal does . Drill and bolt sheet metal into place, than use a torch to soften sheet metal, use two hammers, or a hammer and dolly to pound sheet metal to snugly fit over damage.
> MIG Weld patch to bucket, start at better end, work towards more severe damage . It will never be perfect, but should be usable, after all, it's a repair, not a restoration.


Thanks. the whole idea is to make it functional again. would like to do as professional repair as possible. the rest of the machine is a 9.5 out of ten. so well worth the effort.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> Thanks. the whole idea is to make it functional again. would like to do as professional repair as possible. the rest of the machine is a 9.5 out of ten. so well worth the effort.


If you are looking for beauty, then you are best to keep looking for a SB with a bad tranny and or engine and rob the bucket from it.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Looking at the pics more closely it doesn't seem that as much metal is missing as I thought. I would get some 1/8 inch flat stock, maybe an inch or 1.5 inch wide, and drill holes in it for the scraper bar. I would weld that onto the bottom of the bucket then start hammering everything back up to meet it and tack weld away. The big tear on the left (right side when flipped back over) will requite lot's of little spot welds to not burn through. It's actually more salvageable than it looks at first.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

dhazelton said:


> Looking at the pics more closely it doesn't seem that as much metal is missing as I thought. I would get some 1/8 inch flat stock, maybe an inch or 1.5 inch wide, and drill holes in it for the scraper bar. I would weld that onto the bottom of the bucket then start hammering everything back up to meet it and tack weld away. The big tear on the left (right side when flipped back over) will requite lot's of little spot welds to not burn through. It's actually more salvageable than it looks at first.


once i work the metal i'll take and post more pics . your idea was what I was leaning towards doing. as long as it has strength/integrity.

that one side looks pretty good for wear and tear on an older machine. 

i also thought about putting side skid shoes on it instead of the stock shoes back on in the back but all 3 honda techs said I would probably be better off just putting the stock shoes back on. there are cracks back there too that need to be welded up but very little metal work needed.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

I put Ariens branded poly shows on my HS724. Much better than the rear shoes. Cheaper as well.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

recent progress after a couple hours of banging and twisting.

compare to first photos. seems like I am making some progress.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> recent progress after a couple hours of banging and twisting.
> 
> compare to first photos. seems like I am making some progress.


Coming along great !!!

I have never worked on Honda machines like that, it appears that the bucket is an assembly of sections. Maybe the reason the Honda tech suggested you do not put on side shoes is that the bucket may not be able to handle the weight from that cantilever point on the outside of the bucket which will cause it to tweak, just a thought. 

After looking at your pictures, I see The Oblong slots on the back of the bucket which I am guessing was there to adjust the original scraper plate.
You can fabricate a heavy-duty new scraper plate to fit in there, or a heavy duty adapter which stays on the machine and then install a factory scraper plate. Lots of options here to progress your project forward. 

Keep up the good work !!!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Shaw351 said:


> Coming along great !!!
> 
> I have never worked on Honda machines like that, it appears that the bucket is an assembly of sections. Maybe the reason the Honda tech suggested you do not put on side shoes is that the bucket may not be able to handle the weight from that cantilever point on the outside of the bucket which will cause it to tweak, just a thought.
> 
> ...


what do you mean by a heavy duty adaptor? i already bought a replacement scraper plate. because of all the grooves i don't know how i would weld a piece of metal plate to extend the end that some members suggested.

yes, it is coming along. almost looking like a regular housing.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> what do you mean by a heavy duty adaptor? i already bought a replacement scraper plate. because of all the grooves i don't know how i would weld a piece of metal plate to extend the end that some members suggested.
> 
> yes, it is coming along. almost looking like a regular housing.


This is how worn out one of my HS928TA was (the first pic shows a new scraper bar and good used augers installed, the old augers are shot, I still have them as I may one day attempt to "rebuild them"), and how I was able to repair the worn sides and scraper bar area. It was really time consuming, but came out pretty good (wish I had pictures of it when it was painted after the repairs)


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Looks like it's coming along well. Keep us in the loop on how it progresses.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> This is how worn out one of my HS928TA was (the first pic shows a new scraper bar and good used augers installed, the old augers are shot, I still have them as I may one day attempt to "rebuild them"), and how I was able to repair the worn sides and scraper bar area. It was really time consuming, but came out pretty good (wish I had pictures of it when it was painted after the repairs)


it looks like you cut out all the metal about an inch or so up from that center part and then welded in a plate? is that 20 gauge?

that came out real well.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

hsblowersfan, you did an excellent repair to that bucket. Clearly took a lot of time. 

orangputeh, You still have your work cut out for you, but thats some nice progress. I originally though it was missing far more material. I guess it wasn't missing, just bent wildly out of shape.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> what do you mean by a heavy duty adaptor? i already bought a replacement scraper plate. because of all the grooves i don't know how i would weld a piece of metal plate to extend the end that some members suggested.
> 
> yes, it is coming along. almost looking like a regular housing.


What i was talking about was exactly like what hsblowersfan did to his bucket, I always tend to go thicker on my metals and repairs. If this machine was to be a keeper I'd use thicker materials and blend in to thinner bucket, then slot to put factory scraper back on. When making slots like that i drill a hole at each end of slot, then take pneumatic cutter / grinder to remove center portion. Then you have a perfect slot, usually just a quick finishing with a file.


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## 524SWE (Jan 20, 2017)

:icon-clapping-smile:icon-clapping-smile:icon-clapping-smile

By Jove, I think he's got it! Nice job!

:10::10::10:


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Shaw351 said:


> What i was talking about was exactly like what hsblowersfan did to his bucket, I always tend to go thicker on my metals and repairs. If this machine was to be a keeper I'd use thicker materials and blend in to thinner bucket, then slot to put factory scraper back on. When making slots like that i drill a hole at each end of slot, then take pneumatic cutter / grinder to remove center portion. Then you have a perfect slot, usually just a quick finishing with a file.


here is more progress.

so are you suggesting I put a heavier adaptor plate on the end? or how much do you think i should cut out from the bottom?

you can see the middle blower supports are right at the end.

would I have to add to the sides also? that is why I was thinking about side shoes on. This is a HS1132.

thanks everyone for the support on my first housing repair job.

this will most likely be a keep as my machine is a hs624.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

If it is a keeper, I'd consider cutting a section off (just like the one I did) and installing 1/8" thick plate instead.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> If it is a keeper, I'd consider cutting a section off (just like the one I did) and installing 1/8" thick plate instead.


Thanks. I have a neighbor who welds for a living and he offered to teach me and help with the housing if I do a full service on his Hs622.

win-win


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

I would cut up a cardboard template to make sure you get the fit exactly right, it would be easiest to make one like in my attached picture. I would notch around the center support from the impeller housing, my cut line would be above the slot area but just flush with the base of the shoe bracket. You would also have to make up templates to restore the sides of the bucket so that way you end up with an even Edge all the way around on the bottom where the bucket rests on the ground. In hsblowersfan pixx he has an excellent example of what to do to restore the sides of the bucket, even the little offset Bend to match the bucket, that was a really nice touch. 3/16 or 1/8 flat stock / plate steel would be my choice of material to rebuild this bucket as its a keeper.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

YSHSfan said:


> This is how worn out one of my HS928TA was (the first pic shows a new scraper bar and good used augers installed, the old augers are shot, I still have them as I may one day attempt to "rebuild them"), and how I was able to repair the worn sides and scraper bar area. It was really time consuming, but came out pretty good (wish I had pictures of it when it was painted after the repairs)



this is how i am going to do mine......THANKS.

my welder neighbor came over and looked at the progress and made some suggestions and when it is all ready , we are going to weld the adaptor plate in.

i'll post pics as we go along.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

orangputeh said:


> this is how i am going to do mine......THANKS.
> 
> my welder neighbor came over and looked at the progress and made some suggestions and when it is all ready , we are going to weld the adaptor plate in.
> 
> i'll post pics as we go along.



Orangputeh did this project ever get finished or put on the back burner for later when you have more free time ?? 

Would like to see pixx of it when completed, nice to see a repair / restoration from start to finish. Also with this boards combined knowledge of members we all get different ways of solving the same problem. You'll get more experience and confidence with every project you complete. 

My wife commented I must be crazy to be working on snowblowers in june.... I guess it's a disease of sorts, she'll never understand how us Tinkerers think. It seems perfectly natural to me.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I did put it on the back burner for awhile with doing yard work and all that stuff. I also work on my blowers in the summer. Actually it makes sense to do services ans stuff now instead of an unheated garage in the winter.

I'll post pictures of progress. My neighbor kind of can't help me so i am doing everything the best I can. Bought a used electric Lincoln welder that I need to practice with before working on this bucket.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> I did put it on the back burner for awhile...I'll post pictures of progress. My neighbor kind of can't help me so i am doing everything the best I can. Bought a used electric Lincoln welder that I need to practice with before working on this bucket.


I think it's great you have the opportunity to learn to weld from someone skilled. I wish I had the same. I don't have the budget for a welder and bringing in 220V power to my garage, but one day I may be able to do it.

Keep us posted and good luck. You'll do well, I know it. Thanks for keeping this thread alive.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

jrom said:


> I think it's great you have the opportunity to learn to weld from someone skilled. I wish I had the same. I don't have the budget for a welder and bringing in 220V power to my garage, but one day I may be able to do it.
> 
> Keep us posted and good luck. You'll do well, I know it. Thanks for keeping this thread alive.



You don't necessarily need 220v for a welder. I have a 110v Hobart, it may not weld as thick of material as a 220 but it will weld anything encountered in a blower frame.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

Ive recommended the 110volt hobart handler 140 for years to people, it is a flux core mig welder. Cost around $480 on sale at tractor supply, you can find it online a little cheaper, but it is heavy and it would probably be damaged in shipping. I have tried the Harbor Freight version and it works...... okay, but I still prefer the Hobart model as mine has been flawless for years. This Hobart 140 also comes with a regulator set up so that if you wanted to buy a tank of shielding gas you could use solid wire instead of flux core and have less splatter to clean up from your welding. 

I have taught many people to weld over the years and there are many things you need to learn but that comes with experience, the very first thing I teach them is to focus on the liquid puddle as they are welding and learn to manipulate that, then later as you get more experience worry about the appearance of your weld. If you can look at the liquid puddle and see what is happening and understand it then you will have no problem becoming a very good welder.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

recent progress. still a ways to go

what do you think? any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. this is my first attempt on fixing a torn up bucket,

pic no. 2 and 3 are before welding and grinding.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i think i am going to have to cut back like YSFS Fan did, looking back at his project. Not sure if I could put the scraper bar on.

i did get some real good side skid shoes to help the back skids.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

By looking at some of the pictures it looks like a 32" housing is a 28" housing with 2" sections added to each side before the auger housing sides are welded. Therefore the "center part of the housing and the scraper bar holes" should be the same. I guess you can measure the distance between the scraper blade mounting studs and I can compare that to the 28" housing to make 100% sure.
If this is the case and considering that I have a 28" auger housing that it partially disassembled, I may be able to fabricate a 1/8" thick plate with the 28" template (with the corresponding holes for the scraper bar) and leave about 2-1/2" extra on each side. Then I can mail it to you (you pay the price of the plate and shipping). Let me know if you think that it may work for you.
The other choice is that I can make a template from the housing using a rigid plastic piece, then roll it and ship it to you (you just pay shipping). Let me know if this works for you.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

how about a template like shaw351 made in post 42?

i can do something like that. but i do see how you must have done it with cutting above the center part so it was a uniform piece all along.

yes it is 32 inch. I'll work on it some more and then check back.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

As I get some free time, I'll make some templates for the auger housing bottom and sides.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

sorry it has taken so long to report back. been so busy with other projects. the auger housing is not coming out too good.

i did straighten out everything pretty good and welded all the cracks. I put on a new scraper plate and I believe it will work but i can't sell it this way so I'm just gonna use it for myself.

I may post a pic later. the problem was not so much welding on a metal plate on the end of the housing like YHS did so well. It is the sides that I have to also do since the previous owner ground down so much.

i don't think i'll put everything back together as is because i don't like doing something halfway. I need more practice welding and metal fabricating and then try again at a later time.

thank you.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

well , I forgot to take pictures of the finished project. this is what it looks like back on the blower. 

it's functional.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

That does not look too bad to me! Needs some Shoes, but other than that, I think you've done a nice job on that bucket!


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

The auger housing sides on mine were also quite ground down, I repaired the sides as well. I have a few housings that will need repairs. I should as soon as tomorrow be receiving my new MIG/TIG/STICK welder. As time allows I'll start repairing the housings and do a new thread on it.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

The one thing I'll likely be trying eventually is retrofitting an HSS housing onto an HS tractor. Modifications will for sure be needed, but the HSS housings are taller and about 1/2 the cost of an HS.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

gsnod said:


> That does not look too bad to me! Needs some Shoes, but other than that, I think you've done a nice job on that bucket!


the shoes are on the back of the housing. i was thinking about putting side shoes on.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> the shoes are on the back of the housing. i was thinking about putting side shoes on.


Side skid shoes are definitely worth installing (specially to protect the auger serration).
If I was to install rear and side shoes, I think I'd adjust the side shoes 1/8-1/4" higher than the rears, so that the side shoes would be there primarily to protect the auger housing sides and auger serrations in the event on having uneven surfaces, when the unit is in "scrape mode" or if the rear shoes wear out and it is overlooked.
HS series replacement augers and auger housings are VERY expensive, therefore I strongly suggest the use of side skids to protect them.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Reversible Honda Genuine skids @ 8.80 each + shipping

Honda Power Equipment 76728-V45-A20 - SKID, AUGER : CyclePartsNation Honda Parts Nation


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