# Snowblower restoration, had to weld the frame together



## linuxguy (Sep 14, 2013)

Hey All,

I have been lurking these forums for a bit. I purchased a snowblower on kijiji for 40$, I have what I'm guessing is a snowblower from 1987, model No: 318 587 502 with a tecumseh engine (Starts on first pull!). 
It was impossible to find original parts for this snowblower.
I saw the engine run, but boy was it shaking a lot when i first got it.

Anyway, this thing was way over-greased, oil and grease everywhere inside the transmission, on the friction plate and on all the belts. I cleaned it all out, and clean/grinded out the rust on the pulleys. 

I noticed multiple cracks on the frame: On both sides near where the engine mounts as well as on the frame that links the engine/transmission with the auger, bolts were missing as well. I had to bend the brackets that hold the transmission and the auger together back into shape and since i deemed the metal to be weakened, I bolted it then welded it all that up together. Started her up couple of days ago and the frame felt as well as the transmission felt a lot more stable than ever.

I feel that the tensioner spring for the transmission's drive belt could be tighter, does anybody have experience taking a loop out of a spring, or should I try to source out new spring instead through various department stores?

Has anybody gone as far as welding the frame of their snowblower back together? I was pushed to take a bit of an extreme route.

I am also scared that the auger's gearbox might be slightly weakened, I am thinking on building/welding a metal shield/case for it and would appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Welcome linuxguy!!

It sounds to me like what you have is metal fatigue, caused by vibration/flexing over a long period. Not to be negative and maybe someone has a method that works but I have tried to repair metal fatigue quite a few times over close to 40 years and have never really been successful over the long term. The metal structure has become crystallized for want of a better term and I know of no actual cure. You can chase the cracks and weld them all up and you will find that after you put the piece back into service, new cracks will appear alongside your repair. Depending on how serious you want to get with a $40 investment, I suppose you might be able to cut out the entire cracked section and weld in a new piece. On the other hand, it sounds like you got a good engine and a whole lot of other parts that you could use to restore another low priced unit that happens to be in need of an engine.

My two cents, for what it's worth.

Larry


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

An alternative to a tighter spring might be a shorter belt.

An alternative to welding your current frame might be welding / bolting a metal plate under the engine. (A plate under the engine raises the engine and makes the run between pulleys slightly longer as well so that could fix your spring.)


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## linuxguy (Sep 14, 2013)

Hey Blue Hill, that might be a good idea, cut away the bad parts and put in new metal pieces....not sure where to source out nice thick metal sheet that i can cut through as well.....I might do something like Shryp mentioned, bolting on new, slightly thinner metal pieces and then welding them in as well....What do you think? I have limited welding experience...so your input is appreciated (only started welding this year...and my welds are not very clean yet).

How about building a shield for the auger gearbox, has anybody ever done anything like that to extend longetivity and prevent damage?


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

I think Blue hill was saying get a new body all together and take the parts off the one you have now.

check this video: From 1:58 to 2:39 is key part.




 

But maybe you will luck out...Best of luck!


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

I really would recommend that you go with plan B linux, but if you want to try the repair, you can likely find a piece of steel at a scrap yard, you'll pay by the pound.
Your challenge will be to keep everything square, because it's going to want to pull when you weld it. You'll need to tack everything real well and check for square before you actually do the complete weld. Alternate from side to side as you weld too. An inch or two on one side, then do the same on the other side. If your new piece is thicker than the original, try to keep most of your heat on it and sneak over to the original to avoid burning through. I guess you're not out much if it doesn't work out. You've still got a good engine and can still look for a frame to put it on.


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