# Looking to learn some welding skills



## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

Hello Members,
I'm curious and would like to learn some welding skills. I was wondering for those who have experience here what would be a good place to start. I have limited skills in this area (soldering) if you can call it that. I've seen flux-cored, MIG, DC-TIG,DC-Stick and I'm sure there are many more. Any way looking for somewhere to start. 
Thanks!


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Will you be welding indoors , outdoors, or have the option of either?


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

nwcove said:


> Will you be welding indoors , outdoors, or have the option of either?


Both, if inside it would be the unattached garage mancave or just outside in front of it. 
Thanks for your interest.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

aldfam4 said:


> Both, if inside it would be the unattached garage mancave or just outside in front of it.
> Thanks for your interest.


do you know what you will be welding how thick of metal. in my experience MIG is the easiest to learn and will have the best welds compared to Flux. 

Drawbacks are the welders are more expensive and you will need gas an added cost. also if you dont have 220v in the garage that takes away from some of the nice mid grade mig welders you can get.

if its just going to be a limited use hobby and you only have standard electric i might stick with a 110 flux welder.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Last year I bought a flux core welder that uses a flux core wire. It can do MIG as well with solid wire and a gas bottle. My son has a stick welder that needs a 120 volt 20 amp circuit even though 15 amp specified, so that is out. I am only a learner so the more exotic welders are out of my league. 

MIG is probably best for indoor use since flux core gives off gasses. MIG needs a windless environment that cannot disperse the shielding gas. Flux core can be used anywhere outside or in garage, but suffers from spatter where little balls of metal are deposited on the surfaces close to the welding. Not hard to cleanup but a definite nusance that MIG resolves. But I have not used MIG yet.

Adjusting the weld for different metal thickness takes a lot of practice and is not as easy as the welder videos would suggest, at least for me. I have an auto darkening helmet that was almost as expensive as the welder but I cannot imagine welding without it. I don't have a welding cart but that will have to change since the welder is very heavy and there are extras to be transported too. I bought a traditional welding hammer but that is more for the hard slag of a stick welder. The flux core slag is thin and easily removed with a wire brush, so a set of wire brushes of different sizes to get into places is good.

I welded the broken augers on my son's Crafstman blower last fall and it has held up well. Fixed a few jobs around the house/garage that took a long time but results are not bad. Seems versatile for metal of 5/16" thickness or less.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

I agree with Snowbelt Mig is the easiest to learn and perfect for light metals such as snowblowers and lawn mowers. Myself I bought a flux cored wire fed and I am self taught. My welds arent the fanciest but I can get a good solid weld. Usually have to grind it to get a smooth looking job. I found that the flux core with .35 wire allowed me to weld thicker metals with multiple passes. I have used mig, flux-core, and stick. My preference is the flux core. Flux core makes more splatter from the flux but eliminates the cost of the mig gas contract. I dont do alot of welding so a tank of gas lasts years but the contract was about $60. due annually. Mig does do a smoother job on thinner metals.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I grew up on a farm and did a lot of welding. Between farm shop at High School and what I learned on the farm, I was very good with a Lincoln Tombstone 220v stick welder. If you have 220v and want stick, that's my recommendation.

Once I got my own place, I only have 110v and picked up a 110v stick welder - big mistake. Next to impossible to strike a successful arc.
I then tried flux core mig. Picked up a HF unit - worked about a year then had a lot of issues with it. When it worked it worked OK, but more times than not I had feed issues with it.
I then went with a Hobart 110v mig (140 amp IIRC) that can take a bottle too. It's the one I'm still using. I'm not the greatest of welders as I do it so little and the 50 yrs since leaving the farm I've forgotten a lot. Once I touch up my skills, I get decent welds that hold.
If you want a brand, I'd suggest checking out Hobart, Lincoln or Miller, they all put out good welders. None may be industrial welders but most of us don't need that.
I also have a self darkening helmet, it's the best thing since sliced bread. I also have a dust and particulate mask I wear under the helmet. If you weld in an area that isn't that well ventilated and use flux core, the fumes can get to you.

One more thing. Never use chlorine based brake cleaner on metal then weld on it. Add the cleaner and heat and you create phosgene gas (think WW1 battlefields) and can be very nasty or even deadly.

If you have local adult ed classes, many have courses in welding. It's worth the time and money IMO.

My 2 cents.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

no matter which machine you get, remember, surface prep is key. and its very important to use the right extension cord ! 

and to help with any annoying spatter......https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Anti-Spatter-Non-Stick-Spray-KH505/100341087


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## 2badknees (Jan 28, 2017)

All that has been said above is solid advice. Hobart, Lincoln & Miller are the way to go. I know 3 friends that bought HF wire feeds and none worked after the first 6 months. You're gonna love welding.


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

Snowbelt_subie said:


> do you know what you will be welding how thick of metal. in my experience MIG is the easiest to learn and will have the best welds compared to Flux.
> 
> Drawbacks are the welders are more expensive and you will need gas an added cost. also if you dont have 220v in the garage that takes away from some of the nice mid grade mig welders you can get.
> 
> if its just going to be a limited use hobby and you only have standard electric i might stick with a 110 flux welder.


Snowbelt_subie, thanks for your help. Good information. I don't have 220 voltage in the garage..., yet. I can get it in there but will have to wait until the summer for now. Flux - might be a consideration as of now, though


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

Town said:


> Last year I bought a flux core welder that uses a flux core wire. It can do MIG as well with solid wire and a gas bottle. My son has a stick welder that needs a 120 volt 20 amp circuit even though 15 amp specified, so that is out. I am only a learner so the more exotic welders are out of my league.
> 
> MIG is probably best for indoor use since flux core gives off gasses. MIG needs a windless environment that cannot disperse the shielding gas. Flux core can be used anywhere outside or in garage, but suffers from spatter where little balls of metal are deposited on the surfaces close to the welding. Not hard to cleanup but a definite nusance that MIG resolves. But I have not used MIG yet.
> 
> ...


Thanks Town, My interest right now stems from a few broken parts on an electric drain cleaner as well as any OPE that might need some fixing. Appreciate your feedback!


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

Prime said:


> I agree with Snowbelt Mig is the easiest to learn and perfect for light metals such as snowblowers and lawn mowers. Myself I bought a flux cored wire fed and I am self taught. My welds arent the fanciest but I can get a good solid weld. Usually have to grind it to get a smooth looking job. I found that the flux core with .35 wire allowed me to weld thicker metals with multiple passes. I have used mig, flux-core, and stick. My preference is the flux core. Flux core makes more splatter from the flux but eliminates the cost of the mig gas contract. I dont do alot of welding so a tank of gas lasts years but the contract was about $60. due annually. Mig does do a smoother job on thinner metals.


Thanks Prime, I leaning towards Flux, any Brands worth looking into?


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

HCBPH said:


> I grew up on a farm and did a lot of welding. Between farm shop at High School and what I learned on the farm, I was very good with a Lincoln Tombstone 220v stick welder. If you have 220v and want stick, that's my recommendation.
> 
> Once I got my own place, I only have 110v and picked up a 110v stick welder - big mistake. Next to impossible to strike a successful arc.
> I then tried flux core mig. Picked up a HF unit - worked about a year then had a lot of issues with it. When it worked it worked OK, but more times than not I had feed issues with it.
> ...


HCBPH - Great information, making a sticky of this info on my laptop. Thank you.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I bought a Lincoln 140A 110V flux/MIG welder at Home Depot several years ago. So far it's been great for my limited needs. As others said, Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart all have very good reputations. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-140-Amp-Weld-Pak-140-HD-MIG-Wire-Feed-Welder-with-Magnum-100L-Gun-Sample-spools-of-MIG-Wire-and-Flux-Wire-115V-K2514-1/100670934

I started with flux. It's messy and smoky, though it lets you weld thicker metal than MIG, and is also more tolerant of imperfect surfaces. Flux wire is also more expensive than MIG wire. 

I got a full 20lb CO2 bottle on Craigslist for about $25, and got an adapter (maybe $10) to use the welder's CO2/Argon regulator with the CO2 bottle (threads were different for different bottles, as I recall). This let me switch to MIG. 

Straight CO2 burns a little hotter than the typical CO2/Argon mix (can't think of the name of that mix), and the welds don't look quite as nice. But it still looks much nicer than with flux, and makes much less smoke. And with a used tank, the gas upgrade was really cheap for me. CO2 also lasts for a lot longer than most gases (it's liquified, so there's a lot more of it in the bottle). 

I've been hearing promising stuff about the Chinese inverter welders. Some are pretty affordable, and some can run on different voltages, and can do different processes. Sometimes even flux/MIG/stick/TIG, I think. The voltage flexibility sounds nice, since I only have 110V available. But if I suddenly added 220V, I could weld thicker stuff. Everlast is one brand that I've heard good things about. Harbor Freight's Vulcan units could also be worth a look. 

Flux/MIG is not too difficult to learn, I learned by doing, by reading, and watching videos. I'm sure an actual class would be money well-spent, though. People say you'll also get a lot more practice/$, since their consumables costs are lower than for you as just a regular person. I have the ~$45 Harbor Freight auto-darkening helmet, I like it.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

For those who don't know the differences between MIG and Arc welding also called stick welding,

All welding you are joining 2 pieces of metal by melting the metal and filling in using a stick (rod) of steel or a steel wire.

Arc uses a stick or a rod of steel covered with flux to allow things to stick. The thicker the metal, the thicker (diameter) the rod is. The thicker the metal the more heat you need (higher amperage) because you need penetration, you need the metal deep inside to melt. You use the stick to fill in the gap between the 2 pieces of metal. There are two thick wires coming from the Arc box. One wire is the ground which has a clamp on the end you attach to the metal you are working on. The other wire holds the welding stick. When you touch the stick to the metal you create a short circuit melting the stick however you want to quickly pull it away to start an arc which will melt the stick. The speed you manually move the stick also controls the heat.

MIG welding uses a spool of wire inside the MIG box that comes out inside a cable using a button on the handle. The speed the wire comes out is controlled by an adjustable knob. This wire cannot be thick as it won't be able to be rolled around a spool. For thicker metal you use thicker wire and you adjust the speed of the wire to a slower speed, again you are filling a gap.

MIG welders also can come with an optional gas bottle. When welding, the gas surrounds the weld and prevents oxygen from getting into the weld weakening the weld, plus you get a smoother weld. The gas can be CO2, helium, or argon, the latter being used when welding stainless steel or aluminum. If you do not have this option then you need to use flux covered wire however it will splatter using this wire. The splatter can be reduced using a specific aerosol spray.

Another difference between MIG and stick welding aka Arc, MIG does thin sheet metal such as chutes, stick welding does thick welding such as skid shoes and scraped bars. If you use stick welding on thin metal, it will warp the metal, you need something of substance to use stick for welding. However welding skid shoes and scraper bars are fine using MIG. There is this crossover of thicknesses between the two.

Gas, oxy acetylene, is used for heating, bending, and cutting. If you want more info on the latter, do a search under my name.

A self darkening helmet is the way to go. I'm sorry I didn't buy one years ago. I bought one from Amazon.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

aldfam4, I've been welding over 30 years and have taught many people that wanted to learn. I've owned and welded with many different types of machines, my experience is you get what you pay for. 

My advice would be a Hobart 140 welder, usually can be bought for under $500. Several of my " Students " purchased this model and are happy. It does come with the gas regulator setup for gas shielding if you rent / buy a tank. I have gone through at least 5 - 10# spools of harbor freight .030 flux core wire with no ill effects or bad welds, great wire to use.

This nice little 120volt welder will probably be the only one you're ever going to need, easy to move around, and welds great from my generator when I'm away from electricity. As far as flux core welding splatter on your finished metal you have several options to protect it, I use scrap metal to catch splatter when I can, use anti-splatter welding spray protectant .... ( Be careful to not get any in your welding path as it will cause porosity and bad welds if it gets into your weld puddle), or just weld and wire brush afterwards. Hope my suggestions help with your decision.


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## bumper (Feb 12, 2019)

Didn't see any posts on TIG welders. I have a Miller MIG wire feed, Good for speed and convenience. For most small stuff I use a Miller TIG. Goes to 200 amps and has a liquid cooled torch which is nice for small size and convenience. The TIG allows precision on small stuff that would be difficult to near impossible with other welding methods. 

A small "bump" is added to the back of a stainless steel trigger to act as an over travel stop. Then ground off to fit.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Century is another decent brand but less expensive.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

What about DC vs AC arc welding? (220v). The little I know, or have read, it seems like DC works better or easier on dirtier, thicker or even painted steel. Is that true?


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Century is another decent brand but less expensive.


I'm looking at an old Montgomery Wards (re-badged Century?) now on marketplace. The guy wants $100. Looks like AC only and an older plug style:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/627005321069902/


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

jrom said:


> What about DC vs AC arc welding? (220v). The little I know, or have read, it seems like DC works better or easier on dirtier, thicker or even painted steel. Is that true?


I have a Lincoln 225 amp AC/DC welder bought in 1980. Though I've used DC, I've noticed no difference in the welds between AC & DC. There are different welding rods for DC & AC. I use to do a lot of welding, trucks, snow plows, trailers, equipment.



jrom said:


> I'm looking at an old Montgomery Wards (re-badged Century?) now on marketplace. The guy wants $100. Looks like AC only and an older plug style:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/627005321069902/


Century is known for making welders for others, Craftsman which Lincoln made also, but the MW unit is old and overpriced, $50 tops, even $25, it's a unit that should be given away.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Thank you on both of those.

This spring, I've got a truck and trailer project as well as a lawn tractor project to do.



JLawrence08648 said:


> I have a Lincoln 225 amp AC/DC welder bought in 1980. Though I've used DC, I've noticed no difference in the welds between AC & DC. There are different welding rods for DC & AC. I use to do a lot of welding, trucks, snow plows, trailers, equipment.
> 
> Century is known for making welders for others, Craftsman which Lincoln made also, but the MW unit is old and overpriced, $50 tops, even $25, it's a unit that should be given away.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

jrom said:


> Thank you on both of those.
> 
> This spring, I've got a truck and trailer project as well as a lawn tractor project to do.


Truck and trailer you will be better off with Arc, aka a buzz box, rather than MIG. The rods are thicker and you'll use less of them than MIG. For thick metal you need thick wire and the MIG doesn't have that because that thick a wire can't be rolled on a spool.

You should get a variety of rods, diameter and type. The type will be dependent whether AC or DC as they are not satisfactory interchangeable.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

On the truck and trailer comment, I'd also have to recommend a 220v stick welder. I did a lot of heavy farm repairs using that Lincoln Tombstone welder and it handled it fine. I don't think I could have done the same thickness of welding with a mig.

I have in the past used a 220v DC stick welder. From what I was instructed and what I experienced you want to use a DC welder on things like overhead welding. Splatter will be attacked to the welding target instead of falling onto you or you head. Why not use DC all the time you might ask, well ask someone that's inadvertently touched metal that's being welded with a dc welder. Ever see someone that's been electrically grabbed by something being welded with a DC welder? Imagine grabbing hold of a sparkplug wire with an engine running and not being able to let go till the current is stopped. That's the best description I've ever heard. I touched something being welded that way once, that was a thrill I never want to do again and I was helping - not even doing the welding.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Thank you both JLawrence08648 and HCBPH.

Looks like I won't go the DC route – unless a great deal on a 220v AC/DC stick rig shows up and I'll center on looking for a 220 AC Lincoln Tombstone, or Hobart or Miller rig.

I appreciate your input.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

*Warning when welding on wet ground*

I've gotten a buzz a time or twenty LOL

Because of that I do my best not to weld on wet ground but when your snowplow frame cracks and your garage is the shop storage, you work outside on the ground.

If I remember correctly, all the buzzes I've gotten are the result of either welding with bare hands, always wear leather gloves, or the covering coming off the lever on the positive holder (rod) that clamps and releases the rod. I procrastinated for years putting a piece of plastic tubing over it to cover.

Just recently I cut and re-did the ground wire as it had worn from the grounding clamp and was being held on by only 3% of the copper strands.I

Make sure you have copper wire rather than aluminum wire.

Almost 40 yrs ago I extended the original 12' cables by buying 100' or more of insulated stranded copper wire, buying the connecting ends, and putting it together.


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## Fat City (Feb 11, 2017)

Hot Set Up for beginner Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 4 1/2 " angle grinder Auto Darkening Helmet


220 VT DC Inversion Welder . 220 gives a clean arc, 110 VAC units tend to sputter . I'd recommend stick over MIG, unless you can afford a * Name Brand * MIG or TIG . Low priced MIGs tend to have wire feed problems



220 Cable can be bought by the foot, and fitted with plugs Practice on scraps, it takes many tries to ' get it '


Consider upgrading Ground Clamp to an all brass one . Grind where ground goes Crappy Ground = Crappy weld


After a bunch of practice, you will be amazed how easy it is .


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## Fat City (Feb 11, 2017)

Old School AC / DC Welders are pricey . Today's DC Inversion Welders are around $ 100 new . Note ... These Welders are DC only, which is OK for what we do . Duty Cycle is short , that's OK too . If your building trailers, spanning big gaps, burning up unwanted metal with overkill amperage, Hard Facing worn metal blades, than you want a *real * AC / DC Welder . If you want to fix an occasional deck, the DC only is your best bet . Too me, Hard Facing is the only real use for AC . DC is more precice, doesn't wash in as nice as AC .


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## jameson4170 (Feb 18, 2021)

Another distinction among MIG and stick welding otherwise known as Arc, MIG does thin sheet metal, for example, chutes, stick welding does thick welding, for example, slip shoes and scratched bars. On the off chance that you use stick welding on flimsy metal, it will twist the metal, you need something of substance to utilize stick for welding.


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## Newbie 5 (Dec 19, 2020)

jameson4170 said:


> Another distinction among MIG and stick welding otherwise known as Arc, MIG does thin sheet metal, for example, chutes, stick welding does thick welding, for example, slip shoes and scratched bars. On the off chance that you use stick welding on flimsy metal, it will twist the metal, you need something of substance to utilize stick for welding.





aldfam4 said:


> Hello Members,
> I'm curious and would like to learn some welding skills. I was wondering for those who have experience here what would be a good place to start. I have limited skills in this area (soldering) if you can call it that. I've seen flux-cored, MIG, DC-TIG,DC-Stick and I'm sure there are many more. Any way looking for somewhere to start.
> Thanks!


I hope I'm posting in the proper spot. Just as I follow this great site, I also follow a welding forum. This guy Jody has very good information and videos. (Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info) Also I myself use a Miller cell phone app (to help this old brain) it helps you with electrode size and amp selection. Good luck!


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

i would go for a dual voltage welder since you may want to go to 220 later (recomended) I would suggest a MIG as opposed to just flux core. Remember a MIG can also do flux core.

TIG is nice but in another league.

Stick is good for heavier material.
That being said Miller and Lincoln while not cheap will give you the best performance and longivity


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

I have the Miller DVI unit. It is dual voltage 110 or 220, you just switch plug ends. I also have the Aluminum gun attachment which is nice. I keep one bottle of Argon for that aluminum/stainless work and a bottle of triple mix for steel. 
No matter what you decide on prepping the metal is most important not only for looks, but also for strength. Clean,bare, oil, chemical, lint free, will give the best weld. 
Lastly, do not have anything flammable around your welding area, including rags, as a tiny piece of hot spatter can cause a nice fire, ask me how I know!🤪😊.

about 23 years ago I welded my buddy a set of fishing rod holders, an hour later my smoke alarm went off-in the garage, come to find out I had a few rags I use when I work on vehicles they were about 8 feet away from my welding table and in a covered plastic box, well a tiny red hot piece of spatter found its way to the box melted through the lid and smoldered the rags, by the grace of God, I was still home and caught it before it was a blaze as I would of lost the whole house my garage is attached to the house. I ve since bought myself several welding blankets to cover things up that could burn.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I have a couple of trailer projects coming up that include some thicker components and thinner sheet metal. After looking around quite a bit, I ended up with this 3-way dual voltage inverter:








MIG-250 3 In 1 Portable Inverter Welder

Multifunction 3-in-1 MIG/TIG/MMA professional combo welder, capable of welding alloy, mild steel, weld steel, stainless steel, copper and cast Iron. It can work well with solid wire and flux cord wire, it also has the TIG Torch and STICK function, can weld steel and stainless steel perfectly.

MIG/TIG/MMA
Flux Cored Wire
Dual Voltage: 110V/220V

Specifications

Model: MIG-250
Welder Type: MIG / MMA / TIG
Voltage: 110V / 220V
Rated Input Power: 5.6KVA
Current Range: 50-250A

Package Content

1 x MIG-250 3 In 1 Inverter Welding Machine
1 x 3M Gas Shielded Welding Torch
1 x 5M Argon Arc Welding Torch
1 x Cables With Electrode Holder
1 x 2M Cables With Earth Clamp
1 x 2M Argon Tube
1 x Welding Slag Hammer
1 x 1KG Carbon Steel Gas Shielded Welding Wire (φ1.0).
1 x Welder Mask And Brush
1 x Product Manual


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