# Craftsman Blower parts 842.240744



## latuk (Feb 29, 2012)

I have a Craftsman Snowblower Model 842.240744. Sears is not able to provide Skid shoes or Scrapper bar for this model. I am thinking about making my own scapper bar unless I can buy one. Same thing for the skid shoe. Does anyone know where I can find these parts? Thanks.


----------



## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

snowblowerskids.com should be able to help with the skids and if you read arien69 thread "got a new project" hcbph talks about making a scraper bar and welcome to SBF


----------



## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Welcome to the forum. By all means, take a look at snowblowerskids.com. They're no doubt better than the originals. So far as the bar, you will probably find an answer to that problem here somewhere.


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Parts*

Welcome to the forum.

On the skids, I bought a set from snowblowerskids.com for one machine and I have to speak very highly for their quality of construction. With the little snow we've had, have not had a chance to work them but based purely on thickness of material and construction, you'll wear out before they will. 

I have made a few scraper bars that Sears does not carry any more. I buy shorts from a Metal supplier, most are 3/32" thick though small machines might be 1/8" while very heavy ones may be 1/4" (plus alot depends on what's available at the time), width depends on the machine it's going on. I've been making them the original depth + stick out about 1/4" from the front of the auger housing. The ones I've replaced are L shaped, the original had a bend at the back so it sticks down a total of 1/2". To make that, I just get some of the right size round stock and weld it onto the back of the replacement scraper bar. Pretty sure that's shaped that way so the bar won't bend the front edge of the auger housing up if it's rested on the scraperbar when blowing or in storage. When I put them together, I put about a 2"-3" weld on both sides between the flat steel and the round stock, skip a couple of inches and do another till it's welded the length of the bar. I've had a couple of them warp a little from the welding, just straighten them up once done.
I like to cut to length and drill the matching holes prior to welding, makes it easier. In removing the old bar, I like to take a grinder and grind off the heads of the rivets from the bottom side of the scraper bar. I find that easier than trying to drill straight through the center of the old rivets and once the heads are off, a quick hit with a punch usually pops the rivets out of the old bar. Once the bar is off, a tap on the rivet with a hammer and they are out also.

Once I've replaced the scraper bar, I like to set the skids so it's about 1/8" off the surface. Typically I use a couple of paint stiring sticks under the scraper bar while adjusting the skids.

Hope that helps.


----------



## latuk (Feb 29, 2012)

Thanks for your input on this. I did purchase new skid shoes from snowblowerskids.com. They look like they will work much better than the originals.


As for the scrapper bar I think my is just a flat bar but I an not sure what is looked like before I started using it. I plan on purchasing a 1 inch by 48 inch bar that is 3/32" thick from Home Depot cutting it down to the 42 inch size. Then drill holes as needed and attaching with carriage bolts. Do you know where I can find extra hard carriage bolts? It just seems that the carriage bolt heads would wear off before the scapper bar does. AM I missing something in the design of the scrapper bar? Thanks again.


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Scraperbars*

Latuk

A flat bar scraper would work but only if it never comes in contact with the ground. Here's the reason why I say that:
First off, the section of the auger housing where it mounts is not parallel to the ground. If you put pressure on one edge of it, it's going to try and push it. That effectively would bend the bottom of the housing.

The old ones I've taken off all have had a lip on the back edge.








Think of it as 2 points of contact and when that happens, it still keeps the angle of the scraperbar correct to the ground.

When I make a new bar, it's all arbitrary, I vary widths and thicknesses of materials based on what's available. It's not cast in stone but I keep somewhat close to what was on there. I like 3/16" thick stock, but it can vary as I've used up to 1/4" on some big ones before.
Here's some bar stock being prepped for making a new scraperbar








I also typically use some 3/8" round stock for the back edge. Just weld it on every few inches on one side then on the other offsetting the welds on the back side.









I do prefer to measure and drill the holes prior to welding on the round stock, just is easier doing it that way. Then a little paint and it should go right together.









Once it's on, I adjust the skids to give about 1/8" gap to the ground. A couple of paint sticks work perfectly setting them. I've tried several skids and our sponsor's (snowblowerskids.com) skids are some of the best I've bought.
As far as bolts to use on a scraperbar, to my thinking, I want as soft as possible. If the bolts contact before the scraperbar, I want them to wear down to allow the scraper to be close to the ground. In fact, one I did a little grinding to take the edges off before using it.


----------



## latuk (Feb 29, 2012)

Hi HCBPH, Thanks for taking the time to add pictures along with your comments. I guess I do not know what my scrapper bar looked like new. Right now it looks like a flat bar but I guess it could have had a lip on it in the beginning. I have a concrete driveway and I lower the snowblower all the way down so it is resting on the driveway. Should I be running my blower with a small gap between driveway and blower? So skids and scrapper bar only touch if I go over a bump? Is that correct?


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Scraperbar gap*



latuk said:


> I have a concrete driveway and I lower the snowblower all the way down so it is resting on the driveway. Should I be running my blower with a small gap between driveway and blower? So skids and scrapper bar only touch if I go over a bump? Is that correct?


Well my place is almost 100 years old, and the concrete is probably quarter to half that age in some spots. I have numerous cracks and spots that aren't perfectly even. I can tell you it's a real thrill to take a handlebar in the gut when you're going along at a decent clip and catch a lip that sticks up with the scraperbar where the skids straddle the edge of that thing. It's a joy you'll remember for years 

I raise mine to reduce the instances of catching one of those raised spots. If your drive and sidewalk are perfectly flat then close the gap but mine isn't and I've taken a handlebar more than once.

My thoughts.


----------

