# Adding electric start to '68 10M6D



## craigvalk (Dec 27, 2016)

Hi to the forum!
My 1968 10M6D has a Tecumseh H60-75003 engine. 
Due to a back injury, I'd like to convert this to electric starting. Pull starting that thing at 10F might have consequences....
the engine seems to have all the mounting and provisions for adding this... it has the ring gear on the flywheel, etc.


There's a guy on eBay selling electric start kits, and his ad notes a long list of H60-75xxx variants, but mine isn't one of them. I messaged him to ask about it and he said that based on his data, the H60-75003 used a 12V electric start, and he wasn't sure his 120V set up would work. 


I looked pretty closely and I think it will fit, but I'm calling on the wisdom of the forum for any advice / comments / "been there done that" response. 


Have a great day and thanks in advance for your responses!


Craig


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'd wait for someone else to confirm this but the only difference I'm aware of between a 12v and 120v starter is the way it's wound internally. The bendix that actually engages the flywheel should be the same for both so the 120v starter should fit and operate just fine.

.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I have not put any starters on 6 HP units, but I have on 4-5 HP TEC's and 7-10 HP TEC's. The smaller ones have a starter gear that pulls towards the flywheel and has a 3 bolt mount. The others have a 4 bolt mount and the starter gear pushes out to engage the starter ring. There are some minor differences in the length of the wire between the starter and the button depending on the model. Additionally there's a minor difference in the mounting tabs and bolts between the newer and later 7=10 hp. There is one more difference in th 7=10 hp starters, there are 2 different pinion gears, but they do interchange.


All I can tell you. Good luck.


PS I can appreciate your dilemma, injured in the past and I need electric starters myself.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I asked a similar question a month or two ago, you can do a search under my name and "starter". The responses I got is there are several different starters for the older and then for the later Tecumsehs. One of the most notable differences is the number of mounting bolts. Recently someone ordered a starter that fit and worked but did not engage the flywheel.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Photo of an Early Style 4 bolt 6hp Starter. The Newer Style with push button will fit as well. 4-5 hp starters have 3 bolts. 6-7 have 4 bolts. 8-10 have 4 bolts, but are a different Size than the 6-7, The newer 8-10 starters have "Fingers" on the top mounting brackets, and holes on the lower brackets.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I looked up the 12 volt and tried to cross it over without luck. I did finally end up coming across a Tecumseh 33328 and that should work for you as it says it fits a H60 right on the box.

There are a couple ebay ads I checked and in their descriptions it reads: Tecumseh Starter Kit # 33328D for H50, H60, H70, TVM 125-140 Engines. New in Factory Box. This is an Original Factory Tecumseh from the Good Ole Days when Good stuff was still being produced by the USA ! If you want a quality starter that will last for many , many seasons..... This is it....

Link to one of the ebay ads https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Tecumseh-Snow-King-H50-H60-H70-Engine-Starter-Kit-33328D-/302648304579
.


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## craigvalk (Dec 27, 2016)

Thank you all for the input. On a couple of the points raised... my engine most certainly has the 4 bolt mount, and there is a small sheet metal tab on the starter housing that's held on with one screw, remove that and there's the access hole with the ring gear right there.... and I did take note when searching of the various other mounts for Tecumseh that definitely are not a fit, i.e. 3 bolts. 
The ebay ad I was watching was this one ( cheaper!) 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-H...T5OVT51-Rm9tCBgSA:sc:USPSPriority!01821!US!-1

I did think about "where you mount the switch / button" and the length of the wire and such. I'm not sure about that but I think I can wing it with Velcro / zipties somewhere that works, worst case. 

Going to go for it because I have to, and probably can return it if it doesn't work out. I'll report back, and again I appreciate the tips. I'm certainly not the only guy running one of these indestructible tanks! The bride keeps telling me to buy a new one.. not a chance.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

craigvalk said:


> I did think about "where you mount the switch / button" and the length of the wire and such. I'm not sure about that but I think I can wing it with Velcro / zipties somewhere that works, worst case.


The Tecumsehs I've seen all have 2 screw holes at the top of the flywheel housing to accept long thin screws that go through the starter button box.


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## Spanker (Mar 17, 2018)

Maybe you should go with 12v starting.
What are your options if it dies when away from ac power?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I like the 12 volt option. I have a Snapper with a battery and I'm doing an Ariens this summer.

On that starter button you just need to find a place on top and drill two holes to start the bolts that should come with the kit. I don't think velcro or tie wraps are going to work very well. Tie wraps especially since they get more brittle as it gets colder.

That one I posted definitely wasn't best price just wanted to show that the box did list your engine.
.


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## craigvalk (Dec 27, 2016)

Spanker said:


> Maybe you should go with 12v starting.
> What are your options if it dies when away from ac power?


Good question... I have not come across any 12V setups for it, and didn't know if these machines ever had it. It was only because the eBay guy mentioned it that it crossed my mind!
However, if it did exist, I'd probably pass, as it gets expensive, need a battery and so forth. Come to think of it not sure where I'd even put the battery.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I wouldn't want 12v either for the same Reasons.


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## Vermont007 (Mar 29, 2015)

I've found that Blowers are very easy to Start once they're already warmed up . . . . and I've taught myself how to not run out of fuel when I'm 300' or 400' away from the garage and a power cord.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I've seen factory setups with the battery at the rear of the machine and to the side of the engine. My Snapper came with one mounted to the side on the bucket.

Here is the parts list: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/s...ries-parts-c-207777_207843_211077.html?page=4

I like the idea because I have riders and I can just pull the battery from one of the riders and put it in the blower. I'm hoping to do that with an early 70's Ariens this summer. The Ariens will be from scratch since they didn't come that way but an ignition switch or button, a relay, some wire and a battery tray and I'd be good to go. Just need to get a 12 volt starter. The rest of the stuff I already have.
When I bought my Snapper the battery box was a broken down wood thing likely because the PO had the tray rust out on them and did a DIY Red Green job of it :grin:


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## craigvalk (Dec 27, 2016)

Good morning.. an update on this.. I ordered and received the electric start kit. It took about 15 minutes to install, and fit perfectly. The machine starts easily! Could not be more pleased. thanks for the responses on my questions....




Craig


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Thanks for coming back and letting us know. Did you end up going with the 33328A off ebay or ??

.


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## craigvalk (Dec 27, 2016)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Thanks for coming back and letting us know. Did you end up going with the 33328A off ebay or ??
> 
> .




The one I got was the 33328D, although I am not sure the difference. But all is good.


Thx
Craig


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## Macplee (Feb 17, 2018)

Criagvalk, interestingly I also just installed a 120v starter on my 1968 10m6 this morning. It worked perfectly and took all but 5-10 minutes. I got it off Amazon


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