# HS1132 Runs 10 sec then quits, ignition coil replacement



## beyond repair (Jan 27, 2015)

*HS1132 Runs 10 sec then quits, ignition coil replacement *SOLVED**

Hi All.
How do I get at the ignition coil? Remove larger housing closer to engine while leaving recoil starter attached? Any hard to figure out areas? Business card coil gap? Any ideas what causes 10 seconds of normal sounding runtime, then puttering out? 

Year 2002 machine always started on 1-2 pulls in my slightly warm unheated garage under. Suddenly it took many pulls, wrong choke and speed setting for starting, and it would run rough for 5 seconds. 

I replaced the carb. Now it runs nice for 10 seconds and dies. It will not restart unless I wait a while. It seems to run smooth and respond to controls. I thought fuel line bad because leaked for a while years ago but then leak disappeared so changed that. I cut off the filter end of the tank filter, as blowing or sucking on it seemed to take a lot of pressure at first, but then it would relax and seem to flow smoothly. Fuel did drain from carb at the rate I remember from new. Carb drains faster than I would think it burns fuel. Super regret that idea, now have to worry about clogging carb, but carb only cost 1.25 plowman visit, but will replace soon. I didn't have a new one to try before this storm.

Is it possible the ignition coil would work briefly then need resting period to recover? Since runs smooth for 10 seconds, I did not pull plug. Worried about messing it up worse. Machine has 60 storms on it, 30-60 minutes each, very few 60's. I'm thinking of replacing the ignition coil next. How do I get to it? Can I just pull off the deeper larger housing (perhaps fan shroud) without removing recoil housing? Gap measurement? Any issue reconnecting plug cap or other wires? Seems like one wire goes to other side of machine. Do I have to remove carb again to route wires? 

Lots of snow in Billerica today. Thanks for any help. I cannot find a total machine diagram online, only detail views. Malcolm

It was the sparkplug, many thanks to bombidude. I don't regret replacing the carb, definitely runs smoother and sound very uniform. Moral - Try easy things first. I didn't think a plug would fail in this manner.


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## bombidude (Jan 8, 2015)

I would replace the spark plug.. I seen this before.. Fan shroud needs to come off.. I would check spark with a spark tester before pulling apart. You need to confirm the problem first.. .010 is the air gap for the coil.. The coil would be the last thing I replace. Probably bad spark plug. Losing spark when it warms up.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Sounds to me like your having a fuel problem. Did you buy the machine new, I'm thinking NOT, since you mention a fuel filter. They did not come with a inline fuel filter. Either the previous owner or you installed this filter. Unscrew the sediment bowl on the carburetor.....see how much rust pieces are in this bowl. There should be non, since you have the inline filter. 
If the sediment bowl is clean. I would take the fuel tank off of the engine. drain it, clean it, you can use high pressure water. Just make sure the tank is dry when you reinstall it. Install with a new hose and filter.


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## beyond repair (Jan 27, 2015)

I did buy it new, in fall 2001, says meets 2002 emission standard on label near tracks.

I meant the in-tank filter that screws into the tank. I cut the end off in hopes of increasing fuel flow. I totally regret that, especially since it led nowhere. I will install a new "fuel tank joint" as soon as it arrives. I replaced the carb and the fuel line so far, hopefully tomorrow try the plug. Hope the carb won't end up clogged.

I am using 2 day old gas from a high volume Mobil station. Any reason not to use premium? Honda manual says minimum of 89 octane and max 10% ethanol. My logic is premium will have less carb clogging tendencies, plus I know from experience it stores for longer. I have noticed this Honda engine dislikes older regular 89 fuel that my Kawasaki FB460V runs fine on.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

Also try venting ( unscrew a bit ) the gas cap if it's a Tecumseh, the caps go bad. Replace the cap if it fixes it.

Scratch that I just figured out your machine is a Honda... not familiar with all the model names. Disregard ;-)


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

A bad ignition coil/magneto will only usually crap out when the engine gets hot. Ten seconds of run time is not enough to get the engine good and hot. I say fuel issue as well or maybe there's a problem with the ignition switch.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Morning from just down the street from you in Bedford, MA .

I am sure you have already checked the oil level but I think you may have a bad "low oil sensor". What range does the serial number fall in? need it to confirm if your motor has the low oil sensor.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Good one JnC. A lot of folks bypass that on the Predators too, so I think you're on to something.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

beyond repair said:


> I did buy it new, in fall 2001, says meets 2002 emission standard on label near tracks.
> 
> I meant the in-tank filter that screws into the tank. I cut the end off in hopes of increasing fuel flow. I totally regret that, especially since it led nowhere. I will install a new "fuel tank joint" as soon as it arrives. I replaced the carb and the fuel line so far, hopefully tomorrow try the plug. Hope the carb won't end up clogged.
> 
> I am using 2 day old gas from a high volume Mobil station. Any reason not to use premium? Honda manual says minimum of 89 octane and max 10% ethanol. My logic is premium will have less carb clogging tendencies, plus I know from experience it stores for longer. I have noticed this Honda engine dislikes older regular 89 fuel that my Kawasaki FB460V runs fine on.


You say the fuel tank joint is a fuel filter..according to the parts diagram it's just that a tank joint....no mention of filtering
I purchased mine used.....Have never taken the joint off the bottom of the tank, but my carburetor sediment tank bowl had a lot of rust sediment in it. That's why I put the inline filter in it. The 1332 has a filter for the sediment bowl, but the 1132 does not.


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