# Want to add lights, need some tips.



## Cujoe_da_man (Dec 23, 2017)

Ok, so this isn't a specific Arien's deal, but it's my new engine on an old machine, so I figured this would be the place to start.


Over the summer, I've been working on getting my machine running again and I stumbled upon an alternator plug tucked neatly along the side of the new engine and realized I could add lights!


My new engine is a Briggs 1500 Sno engine, P/N 15C107-0040-F8. If I understand the parts list correctly, it only comes with one alternator option and that P/N is 797090, 60w. It also shows some wire assemblies, but I'm unsure if those are what I need or if there's something else the parts list doesn't show. I'd rather not cut the plug off and keep the wiring clean. Any ideas? 



A pic of the plug:


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

I've not found the matching connector end but no worries, you just cut connector off and add fuse holder there and continue on to the lights. Easy peasy !!!


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

Cujoe_da_man said:


> I'd rather not cut the plug off and keep the wiring clean. Any ideas?


Firstly you will need to figure if it's AC or DC but I assume it is AC since it has two wires. If you want to add an LED light you will need a full wave rectifier. These are the type commonly used, kind of overkill but they are cheap, easy to mount, straight forward and accept regular crimp style lugs on the tabs.



















Then you will need to measure the output voltage preferably with a small load. Then purchase an appropriate LED lamp probably 9-36 volts, these will have internal regulators that will eliminate any flicker. As for the connector you can probably find a match for it.

https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-393456-Alternator-Connector/dp/B002WNYHHK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Briggs+alternator+connector&qid=1572691460&sr=8-1

Or change it for a weather proof one.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

They used to use those plugs on RC cars a LONG time ago and may be ok but failed a LOT on RC cars LOL But I purchase better and just cut those off and replace with a quality one that can keep the elements off the contacts AND use a little diametric grease to stop them from corroding.


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## Cujoe_da_man (Dec 23, 2017)

I'm curious, I keep seeing vids on Youtube where they add all sorts of capacitors and other things along with the rectifier, but they never actually say what it's all for, any ideas? I thought the rectifier did all the work.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

It all depends on the quality of LED lamp you put in. There is a thread on here but it's too long to read through. Basically the rectifier changes AC to DC;










But it isn't clean as you can see there is still an AC component to the waveform.










If you don't have an LED lamp that has an on board regulator you will need a capacitor to clean it up a bit to remove light flicker.










The bigger the capacitor the cleaner the voltage gets.


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## Cujoe_da_man (Dec 23, 2017)

Well, I ordered a rectifier and a cheap light to start out with just so I can experiment with, I can always upgrade to something better later if this all works out. Truth be told, I don't do a lot of work at night anyway, but it would be nice to have the option when I need it.


One vid I just found said that he uses capacitors because there's no battery, would a battery be beneficial or just stick with the capacitor? I only ask because I literally have a very small motorcycle battery laying around from another project that I'm not using.


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## Coby7 (Nov 6, 2014)

You won't need a battery. And remember lights are not only to see but also to be seen.


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

This might be the other end you need:

Wire Assembly
Part Number:
791956


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## Cujoe_da_man (Dec 23, 2017)

Coby7 said:


> You won't need a battery. And remember lights are not only to see but also to be seen.



I was just curious, this is all new to me, not like working on cars where everything is straight DC to wire everything up. I'm better with cars than small engines


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

Your engine is an 1150 series not 1500 series. 11.50 lb-ft of torque max and used to be an 8 hp designated engine. I only know because I bought the exact same 15c107-0040 f8 engine to replace an underpowered 6.5 hp 200gx honda on my little 22 or 24" tru test blower. Underpowered because at 7,200 feet of elevation I'm losing roughly 21% power.. The 6.5 became 5.1 and that is about the engine size that originally came on the thing back in 1980. Snow got thrown about 12 feet on a good day.


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## Cujoe_da_man (Dec 23, 2017)

Yeah, I was kinda tired when I wrote that, not sure where I got 1500 from


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## Cujoe_da_man (Dec 23, 2017)

Ho'kay, so I FINALLY got all my parts in to start working on my lights and now I need to second guess myself because, well... me.


I need to verify that I'm doing this correctly. I have two wires coming out of the engine (you can see the plug end on my original post), so I'm assuming that one wire is power and the other wire is ground. I've seen a lot that are just one wire and you need to ground it yourself.


I have both wires coming in to my box with the red wire plugged to one AC tab of the rectifier and the black wire plugged into the opposite tab (Note: this new plug has two black wires, but the wires on the engine are red and black. This plug has information on one wire, you can see the AWG written on one side, I made that "positive" to help keep things straight.)


Then, I have my red DC wire plugged into the + tab on the rectifier and the black DC wire plugged into the opposite. All wires are running diagonal to each other.


Also, I do not yet have my capacitor or my fuse worked in yet, I'm just making sure the main wiring is correct and if I need to ignore the engine wiring and do my own grounding.



Here's my progress thus far (the box is upside down for the pic so I could show correct orientation of the wires and the rectifier):


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Wires look right to me, I skipped putting the caps in as the light had very minimal flicker but that seems to be how well the Stator is producing power, Some flicker some don’t but since you already have them you may as well install them, I DO like the box you have the wiring in, Keeps it clean.


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## Cujoe_da_man (Dec 23, 2017)

Dauntae said:


> Wires look right to me, I skipped putting the caps in as the light had very minimal flicker but that seems to be how well the Stator is producing power, Some flicker some don’t but since you already have them you may as well install them, I DO like the box you have the wiring in, Keeps it clean.



Well, the light I'm using is a cheap one from eBay just so I can experiment with this, I'd only be out $7 instead of $25-50, so I figured the capacitor would help no matter what the light is


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Yes I used a $8 a set light and one is going on year 3 without issue, The other is on a friends blower that has slightly more flickering but not bad, nice to have the lights for sure.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

5022663 is the briggs number for the connector only...... Available as a 10 pack for $10. Or a briggs shop should have it in their terminal kit. I believe its actually a Packard style or maybe Amp connector. Pretty commonly used. But it makes for a nice clean install. 

GLuck, J


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