# Toro Powermax Rusted shaft, impeller - add zerk fitting ?



## BrooklynDaddy (Apr 28, 2016)

Picked up a used 3 year old (2013) Toro Powermax 826 - model 37772. Has Rust problems (see pics). Want to finish four (4) steps before this fall.

1). Remove rust
2). Paint
3). Thinking of adding zerk fitting to auger and impeller.
4). Grease shaft (white Lithium grease) - anything better ?

a). any suggestion on how to remove rust from shaft ? 
- thinking of using Naval jelly or vinegar.







b). Paint - to match Toro Red - thinking of using rustoleum paint Sunrise Red - Glossy Black for auger and impeller. Any other suggestion ?







c). Has anybody added a zerk fitting to their auger and impeller ? Which (what) zerk size would I use ? Tools needed ? any link to website or Youtube video showing this ? I have zero experience and no taps at the moment.
d). Is white Lithium grease the best for this ? Want to avoid this lube job annually.

Thanks for reading this - any suggestion would be helpful.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Sounds good!
I have no personal experience with freeing up rusted auger shafts, so I will leave that for people with more experience, but I do have one suggestion:



> 4). Grease shaft (white Lithium grease) - anything better ?


If you are going to add a zerk fitting (which I agree you should) then standard "grease gun grease" is fine..Hit it with grease from the grease gun once a year, squeeze the gun until grease squirts out the ends, remove the shear pins, spin the augers to distribute the grease, re-install the pins.

Scot


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

besides that auger shaft rust, all the other rust is normal. before reassembling the auger assembly, sand off the rust on the auger shafts and apply a generous coating of permatex antiseize on the auger shafts and bolts. it wouldnt hurt to add grease zerks and spin the augers on the shafts once a season either


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Use black grease that they use on heavy equipment. or you can use that FOO-FOO grease that BROTHER FROG always plugs here. it is that mobile synthetic stuff. he has pics of that stuff up the wazoo.k:k:k:k:k:


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

43128 said:


> besides that auger shaft rust, all the other rust is normal. before reassembling the auger assembly, sand off the rust on the auger shafts and apply a generous coating of permatex antiseize on the auger shafts and bolts. it wouldnt hurt to add grease zerks and spin the augers on the shafts once a season either


I would get some POR 15 and use that to paint the auger with. sand down all the scaly rust and apply it make sure to wear nitrile or vinyl gloves because if you get it on your skin it will be on there for several days until it wears off. Best rust stopper I ever used. I use it on all my restorations. It is not UV stable so if it is out in the direct sunlight allow second coat with a high gloss topcoat paint


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## BrooklynDaddy (Apr 28, 2016)

*Por 15 ?*



GustoGuy said:


> I would get some POR 15 and use that to paint the auger with.


 The POR15 website also recommend 'Metal Prep' before applying the Rust Prevention. Is this what you do (use) ?

btw: where to buy ? Not carried in any of the local stores by me here in NYC.

Did find a starter kit for less than $30

POR 15 SUPER STARTER KIT BLACK Rust Preventive POR15 45009


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Here's a good place to get most rust preventative products: Eastwood - Auto Body Repair Tools | MIG Welder | TIG Welder | Plasma Cutter | Auto Body Supplies & Accessories


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

NAPA sells self tapping zerks 1/4"-28 is pretty standard. Buy the shorty ones as I don't think your Toro auger is as thick as the old school Toro's or Ariens Pick a drill bit a little smaller than the threads and use any kind of oil to lube them when you throttle them in (go back and forth when seating them). You don't have to drill all the way through the auger, just clear a hole through. The zerks only have a little hole compared to the shaft of the threads. They can't extend beyond the inner diameter of the auger tube anyway to be useful.:wavetowel2:


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## BrooklynDaddy (Apr 28, 2016)

Hello all: An update - temperature is down to a manageable 50 - 60 degrees these days. Finally got a chance to finish up my project with the rusting and painting needed.

Step 1: Bought a 1.25 plastic pipes with plastic from Lowes - sawed it down to 8" - used it to hold the vinegar - and let both end of the auger and impeller sit in it for days to remove the rust. Used about 1/2 gallon vinegar for 1.5 weeks to remove rust. Needed to soak with a baking power solution to stop the acid.

Step 2: Sanded away as much internal paint as possible. Location and metal curves made it difficult to strip away move of the paint.

Step 3: Use metallic clear primer to paint the internal rusted area of the snowblower.


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## BrooklynDaddy (Apr 28, 2016)

*Painted - and reassembled*

Step 4: Applied another 3 coats of paint after the primer. 
Step 5: greased the shafts
Step 6: reassembled the augers and impeller
Step 7: attached the piece back to the snowblower
Step 8: Reattached the bottom plates

Think I'm OK for the next 2 or 3 years.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I looked into adding grease zerks to a blower for the auger rakes the other year. Only way I could see it work was first adding some bungs to the impeller shaft then drill for the zerks. There was not enough space between the rakes and the actual auger shaft to fit it together. Other idea was to get a split collar, fit it with a zerk, then remove and clamp it over the hole where a shear bolt goes. It could pump some grease in that way. Once greased, remove the collar and put the shear bolt back in.


That's all the ideas I had.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Kinda like the split collar idea...... I have something like that for force feeding throttle cables and stuff with too. Works pretty well......


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