# smokey HS1132



## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

Hi, my HS1132 starts well cold or hot and operates well and strong but when the engine is hot after I pushed it hard it smokes much for a few seconds. If I continue to blow heavy snow again when I back-up it smokes blue again  

Is it because the engine is near the end of life?? I've put 5w30 engine oil like recommended by Honda.


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## BlowerMods1 (Jan 11, 2020)

How are you operating the choke ?


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

BlowerMods1 said:


> How are you operating the choke ?



Normally, I pull the knob completely to start then I close it slowly and completely when warm. I've put a brand new carburetor before the season because it was'nt running well and I always had not to push the choke knob completly to keep it to work well.


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## BlowerMods1 (Jan 11, 2020)

I would suggest a carb rebuild but you replaced it. What does your oil look like ? Viscosity ?


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

BlowerMods1 said:


> I would suggest a carb rebuild but you replaced it. What does your oil look like ? Viscosity ?



It's brand new 5W30. I used it twice only since the oil change. I bought this blower at the end of last winter and I would say it did'nt do that before the carburetor change. I've put a brand new genuine Honda but I did'nt adjust anything on it since it started and run well. Anyway I could'nt adjust much with the stopper on the mixture screw. I could remove the stopper and try but I did'nt dare.


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## BlowerMods1 (Jan 11, 2020)

If the oil is abnormally dirty when you know it should be clean pull the head and take a look. May need a ring job. If you're pretty sure the motors is on its way out and it's not worth the effort I would consider a re-power. May want to post this in the repair and maintenance section of this site while you're at it. Maybe someone has another idea or two.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

BlowerMods1 said:


> If the oil is abnormally dirty when you know it should be clean pull the head and take a look. May need a ring job. If you're pretty sure the motors is on its way out and it's not worth the effort I would consider a re-power. May want to post this in the repair and maintenance section of this site while you're at it. Maybe someone has another idea or two.



Ok thank'S


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## BlowerMods1 (Jan 11, 2020)

Just wondering, why did you replace the carb ? May be something simple like an adjustment since problem started after carb was replaced. May need some tweaking. Worth looking into. A simple twist of a screw can make all the difference.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

BlowerMods1 said:


> Just wondering, why did you replace the carb the first time ? Maybe something simple like an adjustment.


I tried to make adjustments without success and I wanted to be sure not to have any problem during the winter.


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## BlowerMods1 (Jan 11, 2020)

Yep I would post this on the repair forum, good luck. Hope you find it.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

*Smokey Honda HS1132*

Hi, my Honda HS1132 starts well cold or hot and operates well and strong but when the engine is hot after I pushed it hard it smokes much for a few seconds. If I continue to blow heavy snow again when I back-up it smokes blue again :frown: 

Is it because the engine is near the end of life?? I've put 5w30 engine oil like recommended by Honda.


I bought it used at the end of last winter and changed the carb for a brand new genuine Honda carburetor because it was'nt possible to push the choke OFF completly after warmed up. If I was pushing the choke completly the engine would die when working hard. I tried to adjust the old carb without success and I changed it to be sure not to have any problems with it during the winter. I'm pretty sure it was'nt doing the smoking problem with the old carb. I did'nt try any adjustment yet on the new carb. 

Any help appreciated


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

A worn valve guide will do that, plus 5w-30 oil being very thin and light will leak past the guides very quickly and cause the smoking.
If your spark plug stays clean, but it smokes like that, it would be a worn exhaust valve guide.
You could do a "Leak-down test" to check for cylinder and valve seat wear, but it wont tell you if a valve guide is worn, that would require disassembling the head to measure the valves and guides. 
And running the improper oil or very lightweight oil can lead to accelerated wear on critical parts. Sometimes very light weight oil does not provide enough of a "Barrier" between the moving parts, so do not use cheap car oil, use special oil designed for small engines.
Not all of your synthetic automotive oils will protect a small engine properly. They might work good in a car engine, but not in a small power equipment engine where the operating conditions are much more severe than in a liquid cooled automobile engine. So be careful when you buy that Mobil 1 synthetic oil for a car engine, its not designed for a small engine. I have rebuilt quite a few engines that wore out prematurely from customers using the Mobil 1 car oil.
And its not just Mobil 1, other sythetic car engine oils have had similar problems. They weren't designed for air cooled engine use with drastic temperature changes and severe loads on internal parts that a small engine is subjected to that automotive engines aren't.
If you cant find a small engine certified oil, use a motorcycle grade oil to be safe, that is designed to handle much more temperature extremes and pressure extremes because it also lubricates the gears in the transmissions and clutch plates where "Shearing Action" is severe on oil, much more than what automotive oil designed for car use is designed to handle.
HS1132, depending on where you are located, you might want to try switching to 10w30 oil to see if it helps with the smoking, if it does, then you know the 5w30 oil is too thin for your use and temps.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

Thank you for your advice. As a matter of fact I did put 5w30 mineral automotive oil. I will drop it and put Honda snow blower just to be sure and I'll check the condition of the sparkplug too.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

HS1132928 said:


> Thank you for your advice. As a matter of fact I did put 5w30 mineral automotive oil. I will drop it and put Honda snow blower just to be sure and I'll check the condition of the sparkplug too.


You are welcome HS1132928.
10w30 oil will work ok down around 0 degrees F.
I use Amsoil synthetic 10w30 small engine oil that flows at minus 46 degrees F and never have any smoking at all and never have cold weather flow problems with it, and no excessive oil consumption.
It is specially designed for small engine use. You can use it winter and summer temps, I use it year round.
Another thing you can try is when we get the warm weather again in the summertime, switch the oil to straight 30 weight and run it to see if you have any smoking problems. If the smoking stops, then you know the oil was too thin, but don't forget to switch it back to a lighter oil for the cold weather again.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> You are welcome HS1132928.
> 10w30 oil will work ok down around 0 degrees F.
> I use Amsoil synthetic 10w30 small engine oil that flows at minus 46 degrees F and never have any smoking at all and never have cold weather flow problems with it, and no excessive oil consumption.
> It is specially designed for small engine use. You can use it winter and summer temps, I use it year round.
> Another thing you can try is when we get the warm weather again in the summertime, switch the oil to straight 30 weight and run it to see if you have any smoking problems. If the smoking stops, then you know the oil was too thin, but don't forget to switch it back to a lighter oil for the cold weather again.


Thank'S again. Just to be sure you understood me well. If I use it lightly it does'nt smoke. It smokes only after a hard pass if I may say it like that. It smokes much for around 5 seconds then it comes back normal.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

HS1132928 said:


> Thank'S again. Just to be sure you understood me well. If I use it lightly it does'nt smoke. It smokes only after a hard pass if I may say it like that. It smokes much for around 5 seconds then it comes back normal.


Thin oil will do that, and if a valve guide is starting to wear that will also do that, also make sure your oil level is not over full.
The thin oil also vaporizes too easy and it will get sucked through the breather and drawn into the engine causing it to smoke.
By vaporizing, it boils, and also becomes a "Mist" when it hits the spinning crank and other moving parts. The "Mist" is what gets through the breather and is burned in the combustion chamber.
Good oil designed for small engines tends to resist the "Misting, Boiling, Vaporizing" effects better than oil designed for an automobile.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> Thin oil will do that, and if a valve guide is starting to wear that will also do that, also make sure your oil level is not over full.
> The thin oil also vaporizes too easy and it will get sucked through the breather and drawn into the engine causing it to smoke.
> By vaporizing, it boils, and also becomes a "Mist" when it hits the spinning crank and other moving parts. The "Mist" is what gets through the breather and is burned in the combustion chamber.
> Good oil designed for small engines tends to resist the "Misting, Boiling, Vaporizing" effects better than oil designed for an automobile.



Thank's I just drained the auto oil and filled with Honda 5w30 but the clerk told me it would take less than 1 liter but it takes around 1.2 liter I think.. . So I will buy another bottle and fill it well and try at the next snow storm


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

I tried it this morning and it does'nt smoke as much as before I put the right oil type. Way better actually.
Thanks to all


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

Ok I tried it more today and it does'nt smoke like before. After I used it normally, if I lower the engine at the lowest speed it smokes pretty much  

Does it worth it to make a compression test ? How much pression should I read ? I have an electric starter so it should'nt hard to make.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

HS1132928 said:


> Ok I tried it more today and it does'nt smoke like before. After I used it normally, if I lower the engine at the lowest speed it smokes pretty much
> 
> Does it worth it to make a compression test ? How much pression should I read ? I have an electric starter so it should'nt hard to make.


just guessing but probably needs a valve job and new rings. rebuild kits are fairly cheap. or just run as is and keep eye on oil level.

I'm rebuilding 2 engines right now for the fun of it. and to gain experience. one is a gx240 and the other is a gx340.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

orangputeh said:


> just guessing but probably needs a valve job and new rings. rebuild kits are fairly cheap. or just run as is and keep eye on oil level.
> 
> I'm rebuilding 2 engines right now for the fun of it. and to gain experience. one is a gx240 and the other is a gx340.



About the kit you use to rebuild, do you buy them from Honda or Ebay or Amazone? Do you have the cylinder rebore?
Thank's


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

HS1132928 said:


> I tried to make adjustments without success and I wanted to be sure not to have any problem during the winter.


 Sorry for your problems but its the wrong way to go about trouble shooting. 



Valve lash should be checked as one of the basics

It would help to know how old the machine is. 

For general you are better off with Synthetic but I don't believe that is the problem. I had a Toro that lasted 25 years without it. It may be worn out but I don't buy the idea about the oil causing it. Some are better oriented and I would go with those. 

Keep in mind snow blower have forced air cooling and cycles do not. Slightly different beast than none. 

Mobile makes an air cooled cycle engine oil called 4T - its what I use as I have it around for cycles as well (down to the Ural now) 



If you are worn how far you go depends on the condition of the cylinder. If it has a ridge in it then its a new cylinder (I doubt Honda makes a lager piston and boring out is costly) 



If no ridge then it depends on the cylinder wall condition and if you can still see the honing marks. 

Self honing is a crap shoot, that is why engine rebuild cost a lot, shops have the equipment guaranteed to meet the specif roughness of the cylinder all needed.


Depends on how much time you want to fuss with and test or it bothers you. 



If its a well worn machine then sometimes its better new or a new engine if the chassis is in good shape. You have to establish what your tolerance is, how mechanical you are.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

HS1132928 said:


> About the kit you use to rebuild, do you buy them from Honda or Ebay or Amazone? Do you have the cylinder rebore?
> Thank's


i get the rebuild kits from Everest Parts LLC on amazon. haven't finished it yet so don't know how good they are. they are aftermarket. I do it just for the challenge. Usually i get donor machines cheap during the off season . Have gotten 1132's for next to nothing. have 5-6 engines in the shed for swaps and builds.

like someone else mentioned you could get a Honda clone engine at a fair price to swap out if your engine goes out. I'd put a 13hp engine on a 1132 instead of a 11. gx390.


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

RC20 said:


> Sorry for your problems but its the wrong way to go about trouble shooting.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


if you buy from honda honda does ell oversize rings. check for wear on the piston skirt and fully disassemble BEFORE ordering parts. if your going to be in for a rebuild your going to want new valve stem seals new crank seals and all new gaskets at a minimum. i suspect your crosshatching is gone if thats the case you can probably just use something like this- https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-Engine-Cylinder-Hone-63641.html and install new rings


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

RC20 said:


> Sorry for your problems but its the wrong way to go about trouble shooting.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thank you very much for your help and time. I will try to finish the season like this and by checking oil often and I will decide what I am going to do with the engine.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

arienskids said:


> if you buy from honda honda does ell oversize rings. check for wear on the piston skirt and fully disassemble BEFORE ordering parts. if your going to be in for a rebuild your going to want new valve stem seals new crank seals and all new gaskets at a minimum. i suspect your crosshatching is gone if thats the case you can probably just use something like this- https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-Engine-Cylinder-Hone-63641.html and install new rings



Thank's a lot for the advices


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

orangputeh said:


> i get the rebuild kits from Everest Parts LLC on amazon. haven't finished it yet so don't know how good they are. they are aftermarket. I do it just for the challenge. Usually i get donor machines cheap during the off season . Have gotten 1132's for next to nothing. have 5-6 engines in the shed for swaps and builds.
> 
> like someone else mentioned you could get a Honda clone engine at a fair price to swap out if your engine goes out. I'd put a 13hp engine on a 1132 instead of a 11. gx390.



Hey orangputeh, I used my HS1132 a bit lately and it burns oil more and more. I call it my 2 cycle snowblower  I checked for parts at Everest Parts and they sell a complete long block assy. Do you know if all snowblower engines like GX340 have keyed 1 inch crankshaft? Could I put a GX390 instead and if yes will I have to modify something or thickle the carb?
Thank's


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

General use Honda engines use fractional crankshafts, 3/4”, 1”. Honda’s snowblower engines are metric. If you replace your snow duty engine with a standard motor you will need a new crank pulley that fits properly.

If the rest of the machine is in good shape, maybe consider a direct from Honda replacement. You can order one from any Honda dealer. It’s not much more then a general use gx340. And to be honest, go straight for a HS1332 gx390. The piece of mind and time saved is well worth it in my opinion.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

drmerdp said:


> General use Honda engines use fractional crankshafts, 3/4”, 1”. Honda’s snowblower engines are metric. If you replace your snow duty engine with a standard motor you will need a new crank pulley that fits properly.
> 
> If the rest of the machine is in good shape, maybe consider a direct from Honda replacement. You can order one from any Honda dealer. It’s not much more then a general use gx340. And to be honest, go straight for a HS1332 gx390. The piece of mind and time saved is well worth it in my opinion.



Thank's, I would consider the rest of the machine as 6/10. The drum has already been rebuilt and I've put a new carb and a few bearings. I checked prices a bit and a Honda engine would cost around 3 times the price I will pay for an aftermarket long block replacement.


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

was it smoking before the oil change?? if not have you overfilled it? smokes after hard push suggests to me it's over filled try running it with the oil level mid add/full mark, if it stops you have a idea of where to look next .


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

87powershiftx2 said:


> was it smoking before the oil change?? if not have you overfilled it? smokes after hard push suggests to me it's over filled try running it with the oil level mid add/full mark, if it stops you have a idea of where to look next .



I like your theory. It smoked before and after the oil change. The oil capacity of a HS1132 is 1.1 liter and it's exactly what I put. I checked the engine oil with the engine leveled and I fill until it drips from the dipstick hole like it says in the manual. At this point If I use it 4 to 5 times without adding oil, I think the engine will seize lol. It has probably been used on tilted roofs or slope with an obvious lack of maintenance by the previous owner. When I come back inside my clothes smell oil consumption like ****


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

ok understand better, old school cheap test

check the compression record the reading, recheck after you put about 1 ounce of oil into the plug hole. very slowly pull it over by hand than spin it fast with the tester in, if it comes up you have worn rings if not it's a valve issue, it's a way that i was taught from another old timer when i was 16 it has saved me when i didn't have a leak down tester 

don't be afraid of doing a ring job it's not hard .


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

87powershiftx2 said:


> ok understand better, old school cheap test
> 
> check the compression record the reading, recheck after you put about 1 ounce of oil into the plug hole. very slowly pull it over by hand than spin it fast with the tester in, if it comes up you have worn rings if not it's a valve issue, it's a way that i was taught from another old timer when i was 16 it has saved me when i didn't have a leak down tester
> 
> don't be afraid of doing a ring job it's not hard .



thank you for your help. The fact the cylinder is very inclined, will the oil go equally enough around the piston to be pretty sure it's not a ring issue? The gravity law will spread the oil mostly at the lowest part of the cylinder no?


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

that's why you turn the motor over slow a few turns than test. the turns help move the oil around the piston and rings 
if you can borrow/rent a leak down tester from auto stores like advanced or autozone and have access to a air compressor that's way better


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

87powershiftx2 said:


> that's why you turn the motor over slow a few turns than test. the turns help move the oil around the piston and rings
> if you can borrow/rent a leak down tester from auto stores like advanced or autozone and have access to a air compressor that's way better


Thank's I can borrow a leak down tester. I will check that pretty soon.
Do you know approximatly how many psi I should read for a good condition engine GX340?
I already asked but got no answer.


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

ask orange he's more up on honda,s


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

87powershiftx2 said:


> ask orange he's more up on honda,s



Ok thank you. I will write the results later on.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

HS1132928 said:


> Thank's I can borrow a leak down tester. I will check that pretty soon.
> Do you know approximatly how many psi I should read for a good condition engine GX340?
> I already asked but got no answer.


spec on engine is 85-121 @600 rpm ( with decompressor engaged )

source; Honda shop manual, section 2-8


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

If you can't get a leak down tester and have to do a compression test, first loosen the exhaust valve clearance so the decompression doesn't activate, you would loosen the exhaust valve clearance about ."020" from what it is supposed to be set at, so give it about ."030"-."040" clearance, then you will get the corrected pressure without having to spin the engine over at 600 RPM's.
The rings usually lasted pretty long in the Honda GX engine and from the way you are describing the problem, it almost sounds like worn valve guides and valve stems.
It would be best to do a "Leak Down" test to know better by hearing the air hiss out the oil fill or crankcase breather tube to the air box elbow if it is rings.
If it was run with cheap 5w-30 oil in it, all kinds of wear will occur. Those engines worked better with 10w-30 in the wintertime.
The best oil I have had experience with is the Amsoil 10w-30 small engine oil. That oil will work winter temps down to -minus 46 F and can even be used in summertime temps because Honda warned about using multi-viscosity oil in the older engines, they recommended straight 30 weight in them.People used 10w 30 and had oil consumption problems and exhaust smoking problems with the 10w30 oil, but no problems with the straight 30 weight in the warmer weather.
But if worse case scenario and you have to do a "Rebuild" on the engine, only use original genuine Honda parts, not cheap aftermarket parts. You would be better to rebuild the Honda GX engine than to replace it with a cheap clone engine that will not last like the original Honda engine would, and especially if it is maintained properly.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> If you can't get a leak down tester and have to do a compression test, first loosen the exhaust valve clearance so the decompression doesn't activate, you would loosen the exhaust valve clearance about ."020" from what it is supposed to be set at, so give it about ."030"-."040" clearance, then you will get the corrected pressure without having to spin the engine over at 600 RPM's.
> The rings usually lasted pretty long in the Honda GX engine and from the way you are describing the problem, it almost sounds like worn valve guides and valve stems.
> It would be best to do a "Leak Down" test to know better by hearing the air hiss out the oil fill or crankcase breather tube to the air box elbow if it is rings.
> If it was run with cheap 5w-30 oil in it, all kinds of wear will occur. Those engines worked better with 10w-30 in the wintertime.
> ...



Thank you very much


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

Here is the result of my tests. The dial on my leak tester was'nt reliable but I could easily hear a leak coming from the dipstick. Bubbles were forming around the dipstick. Then I made a compression test giving 90 psi. I put oil on the piston and I gained 20 psi right away. So the problem really comes from the cylinder.
I know that it's not hard to do a ring job but I am afraid that the cylinder will be worn and I don't want to rebore it and put a bigger piston etc.etc. etc. to finish having the same problem or others during the next winter when it's not time for a snowblower to break. I know genuine Honda parts are better but they are pretty expensive and I afraid to spend a lot and miss my repair


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

best thing to do is pull off the cylinder head and see what the bore looks like. post pictures here and we can help advise you. if you just do a basic rebuild with rings new piston valve seals new crank seal and gaskets it should be under 100 with genuine parts


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

arienskids said:


> best thing to do is pull off the cylinder head and see what the bore looks like. post pictures here and we can help advise you. if you just do a basic rebuild with rings new piston valve seals new crank seal and gaskets it should be under 100 with genuine parts



Thank's a lot. I will let the winter go away and I will open it.
To be continued. 

Thank's again to all. I will finish the winter like this and post back when there will be no more chance of a snow storm


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> If you can't get a leak down tester and have to do a compression test, first loosen the exhaust valve clearance so the decompression doesn't activate, you would loosen the exhaust valve clearance about ."020" from what it is supposed to be set at, so give it about ."030"-."040" clearance, then you will get the corrected pressure without having to spin the engine over at 600 RPM's.
> The rings usually lasted pretty long in the Honda GX engine and from the way you are describing the problem, it almost sounds like worn valve guides and valve stems.
> It would be best to do a "Leak Down" test to know better by hearing the air hiss out the oil fill or crankcase breather tube to the air box elbow if it is rings.
> If it was run with cheap 5w-30 oil in it, all kinds of wear will occur. Those engines worked better with 10w-30 in the wintertime.
> ...


I forgot to mention you that I used Honda 5w30 specified for little air cooled engine at $10 a liter.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Sounds like your next step is going to remove the cylinder head and inspect the cylinder wall for scoring and damage, then get an inside cylinder micrometer to measure the cylinder wall to see if an "Over-Bore" is required.
If it is within tolerances you would be able to hone it and install new rings and maybe stock size piston as long as there is no major damage. The GX engine has a steel cylinder liner in it, they made .010" and .020" oversize rings and pistons.
The Honda GX series engines are very easy and simple to work on, and while you have it apart, check your valve stems and guides for excessive wear and play. You might have to take it to a good engine machine shop if you don't have the tools measuring devices and experience to do the required work, but the Honda GX engine is worth repairing, they are expensive engines that hold their value.
Some of your cylinder damage can occur because the engine does not use an air filter element, and if the engine was run in a dirty dusty environment that doesn't help. another cause can be if the previous owner used the wrong oil, or a poor type of oil that was designed for automotive use and not for air cooled engines, or it was run low in oil but many cases that would also cause connecting rod bearing problems.
I have worked with those engines for 30 plus years and they didn't like running the low viscosity "5w30" oil even though the Honda manual stated to use it. They worked better with the "10W30" in the very cold weather with less wear and no cold start problems unless you were up at the Arctic Circle with the very low temps there, then the 5W30 worked better.
Some of the problems can first start when the engine is brand new and it is run with no oil at the first "Start up" which happens when an inexperienced person sets them up and doesn't check the oil level until it's too late. When that happens most of the time the engine will have a connecting rod bearing failure very early in its life, even after the oil is filled to proper level. The damage will start to happen in the first minute the engine is run without oil, it wears the bearing a little bit, then continues its sloppy play until it fails within a short time, but the cylinder wear is minimal in that case.
That problem is the most common on units sold from Big Box Stores and the buyer thinks there is enough oil in the engine when they check it before they start it, and there is not enough, they are reading the level on the dip stick that was just "left over" oil that slashed around in the engine from being transported to their home. The engine was run at the factory and the oil was drained before the unit was packaged for shipping. We see that happen all the time.
Somebody buys a new machine from Home-Depot, takes it home and sets it up thinking there is enough oil in it, runs it for a few minutes or longer, shuts it off, checks the oil and adds some, then continues running it and a month later the engine blows up when the connecting rod breaks.
It is good you are using the genuine Honda oil. I don't know where you are located at to be able to say what weight oil I would recommend you use. But if the machine was bought "Used", you never know what the previous owner used in it and how well they maintained it. So I wish you the best of luck with it and getting it repaired properly.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

One thing I forgot to mention, I saw on some engines the head gasket blow right at the cylinder to push-rod area, and the leakage will give you the air in the crankcase sound when you give it a leak-down test.
That is an odd occurrence but it can happen, then all you have to do is replace the head gasket as long as there is no damage where it leaked at like a burn in the head or block deck.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> One thing I forgot to mention, I saw on some engines the head gasket blow right at the cylinder to push-rod area, and the leakage will give you the air in the crankcase sound when you give it a leak-down test.
> That is an odd occurrence but it can happen, then all you have to do is replace the head gasket as long as there is no damage where it leaked at like a burn in the head or block deck.


The excessive crankcase pressure when the head gasket leaks at that location can also cause increased oil consumption as well.So if it is leaking there then that will more than likely be the cause of the oil consumption.




Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

HS1132928 said:


> Here is the result of my tests. The dial on my leak tester was'nt reliable but I could easily hear a leak coming from the dipstick. Bubbles were forming around the dipstick. Then I made a compression test giving 90 psi. I put oil on the piston and I gained 20 psi right away. So the problem really comes from the cylinder.
> I know that it's not hard to do a ring job but I am afraid that the cylinder will be worn and I don't want to rebore it and put a bigger piston etc.etc. etc. to finish having the same problem or others during the next winter when it's not time for a snowblower to break. I know genuine Honda parts are better but they are pretty expensive and I afraid to spend a lot and miss my repair


The air should have escaped from your breather tube..did it get twisted or pinched when you changed the carb?
Air being forced around your dipstick indicates a pinched breather tube or such major blowby that it can't keep up with it..and as stated by prior poster the head gasket leaking back into the crankcase.
You may even have carbon blocking the breather tube inside the engine.
You should be able to blow air though the tube easily.
With a hard pull...then backing off you may be pressurizing your crankcase..then with no load that pressure forces oil up past the rings and through the valve guides which will go away after the excessive pressure goes away then a few seconds to burn it off.
Check the breather tube.




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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Shovel said:


> The excessive crankcase pressure when the head gasket leaks at that location can also cause increased oil consumption as well.So if it is leaking there then that will more than likely be the cause of the oil consumption.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good call Shovel, I forgot to mention that, thank you for stating that.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> Good call Shovel, I forgot to mention that, thank you for stating that.


We can't remember everything at any given moment...it's easy to forget behind the keyboard..but if the engine is in front of us we do everything at once so its much easier



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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Shovel said:


> The air should have escaped from your breather tube..did it get twisted or pinched when you changed the carb?
> Air being forced around your dipstick indicates a pinched breather tube or such major blowby that it can't keep up with it..and as stated by prior poster the head gasket leaking back into the crankcase.
> You may even have carbon blocking the breather tube inside the engine.
> You should be able to blow air though the tube easily.
> ...


ya, i always check the simplest things first and work my way up. can't tell you how many times people have contacted me with a no start problem and I ask " is key on? , gas in tank? gas valve on?


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

Shovel said:


> The air should have escaped from your breather tube..did it get twisted or pinched when you changed the carb?
> Air being forced around your dipstick indicates a pinched breather tube or such major blowby that it can't keep up with it..and as stated by prior poster the head gasket leaking back into the crankcase.
> You may even have carbon blocking the breather tube inside the engine.
> You should be able to blow air though the tube easily.
> ...


When I changed the carb, the breather tube was disconnected from the old carburetor. I've put it back on my new carb and had to cut it a bit cause it was corking. I will double check that tonight. It could be clogged also. After I applied air for the leak test pretty much pressure had built in the crankcase cause I've been splashed when I removed the dipstick. 

If I a m right, If I remove a dipstick and blow in the breather tube (engine side) air should go easily right?


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

HS1132928 said:


> When I changed the carb, the breather tube was disconnected from the old carburetor. I've put it back on my new carb and had to cut it a bit cause it was corking. I will double check that tonight. It could be clogged also. After I applied air for the leak test pretty much pressure had built in the crankcase cause I've been splashed when I removed the dipstick.
> 
> If I a m right, If I remove a dipstick and blow in the breather tube (engine side) air should go easily right?


Yes you should be to able to freely blow through it.
It sounds plugs if you got sprayed if the dipstick tube was pressurized 'after' the leak down test....if you were still applying pressure and the oil sprayed you through the dipstick tube...it would indicate a clogged tube or a tremendous amount of blowby.
If the tube checks out good..then you have a tremendous amount of blowby past the rings..or the head gasket is leaking back into the crankcase as mentioned earlier...As the tube should be able to keep up easily with a leak down test.
If it was unhooked it may have a mud dawber nest in it...around here they will build in a carb.. an exhaust..just about anywhere.
It may have been unhooked by the previous owner to aid a runnability problem as the excessive blow by gasses can pollute the air/fuel charge enough cause poor running (if it's bad enough).





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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Some breathers will have a "One Way" check valve that will only allow air to come out of the engine and not back into the engine to help keep a vacuum in the crankcase. They want to keep air out of the case, so you don't get a pressure build up in it that can cause oil leaks through the oil seals and piston rings.
The breather mechanism acts like a PCV valve on an automobile, it allows air to go out, but not back in to the engine.
That way if you try to blow air into the breather tube while it is connected to the breather, air shouldn't get past it and into the engine, but it should allow air to come out of it.
The breather elements do go bad, the valves go bad and on some there is an element to catch excess oil that becomes plugged up and wont let air out.
You would have to remove the tube to check to make sure the tube is not clogged, but if the tube is installed on the breather mechanism, it should not let air through it and enter the engine on most engines.
They are set up to help remove "Blow By" gasses from the crankcase and to help keep pressure down to help prevent oil leaks.


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## HS1132928 (Mar 29, 2019)

Good news guy, we received one foot of very wet and heavy snow and I had to check the breather hose absolutely in case it could be THE problem. 

I removed the valve cover and it was fine including the check valve. It looked like brand new and clean under there. Then I checked where the breather hose was connected and it was impossible for air to go there. In great need of my HS1132 I've just put the hose beside the carb and used my snowblower absolutely without any smoking  

So because of the high pressure getting in the crankcase, very much oil was going up in the cylinder and burning. I'll just have to change my spark plug cause it was black and wet of course. 

Thank you very much to all. I owe you one  

Cheers


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

HS1132928 said:


> Good news guy, we received one foot of very wet and heavy snow and I had to check the breather hose absolutely in case it could be THE problem.
> 
> I removed the valve cover and it was fine including the check valve. It looked like brand new and clean under there. Then I checked where the breather hose was connected and it was impossible for air to go there. In great need of my HS1132 I've just put the hose beside the carb and used my snowblower absolutely without any smoking
> 
> ...


That's super great news!!! This has been a winner topic. should have a winner icon for this.:smile2:

BTW you can probably get by with cleaning your plug but what the heck. a couple bucks for a new plug and peace of mind.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

HS1132928 said:


> Good news guy, we received one foot of very wet and heavy snow and I had to check the breather hose absolutely in case it could be THE problem.
> 
> I removed the valve cover and it was fine including the check valve. It looked like brand new and clean under there. Then I checked where the breather hose was connected and it was impossible for air to go there. In great need of my HS1132 I've just put the hose beside the carb and used my snowblower absolutely without any smoking
> 
> ...


Awesome 👍



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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

That is good to hear you got it taken care of. Sometimes it is a minor problem that can be enough to drive you nuts, or something really stupid, it happens to everyone.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

HS1132928 said:


> Good news guy, we received one foot of very wet and heavy snow and I had to check the breather hose absolutely in case it could be THE problem.
> 
> I removed the valve cover and it was fine including the check valve. It looked like brand new and clean under there. Then I checked where the breather hose was connected and it was impossible for air to go there. In great need of my HS1132 I've just put the hose beside the carb and used my snowblower absolutely without any smoking
> 
> ...


The breather hose should connect to the air intake duct from the carburetor to the air filter area on the Honda engine, the other end goes into the valve cover.
I wonder if it was installed to the wrong location, like someone mis-routed it or installed it on a "Boss" located on the carburetor or something else.
If you remove the 2 nuts and a bolt under the air filter cover, you can remove the elbow duct from the carburetor and you will see the hose connected to it.


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