# HS928 auger shaft decoupled from engine



## tahoesnow (Jan 26, 2018)

Hello,

I've been searching the net on how to fix this problem and came upon this forum. Hello to the group.

I've got a Honda HS928, recent vintage. Last used it 2 weeks ago, no problem. Popped a shear pin as usual on a hidden pine cone. It was kind of a bigger "hit" than a typical shear pin pop. I went to use it tonight and the shaft going from the main housing of the engine to the augers and impeller (the mechanism the shoots it out the chute) isn't turning. I can hear it turning inside the main housing when the clutch is engaged, but that doesn't translate to the "auger drive shaft" (not sure of the proper term). I'm hoping there's a shear pin inside the housing. Haven't taken it apart yet as I've got to work early tomorrow, but want to be prepared with knowledge when I get in there. Can someone please define the anatomy I'm looking at so I can properly google terms? Also, should I be expecting a broken belt, or a broken pin?

Thanks for your help,
Adam


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## Jarsh (Jan 4, 2018)

Hi! I don't own a 928 myself but dug this up via a Google search. Hopefully it may be of some help to you:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...forum/1424-auger-not-driving-honda-hs928.html

Good luck with getting it up and running. Awesome machines. I know several in my community who have then and they never miss a beat.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

If I understand correctly, your impeller is turning but not the augers. There are 2 shear bolt thru the impellor auger shaft. 
One of these will be broken usually the back one.
If one of these is not broken its possibly a broken shaft


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Prime said:


> If I understand correctly, your impeller is turning but not the augers. There are 2 shear bolt thru the impellor auger shaft.
> One of these will be broken usually the back one.


This man knows what he's talking about . 

Bolt > 90102-732-010 HONDA BOLT, LOCK (Honda Code 1533355)

Locking nut > 90114-SA0-000 HONDA NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM) (Honda Code 1410182)

or a set of five of these from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-SHEAR-PI...071165?hash=item1ebe521c7d:g:jH0AAOSwImRYXDwZ

Bolt looks like this and only goes in from one side due to the collar at the base.


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## tahoesnow (Jan 26, 2018)

no, both the impeller and the augers are turning. the shear pins are fine.

The shaft that holds the impellers and the augers turns as one unit, as it should. The problem is out of sight behind the housing where it is disconnected somehow from the motor.

Thanks for the suggestions. Other than this, I've been very happy with the blower.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

I think you are confusing the auger shear bolts item number 13 in the illustration below with the main impeller shear bolt item number 5. 

Your issue, at least from the sound of it seems to be the shear bolt #5. 

The main pulley, that sits behind the impeller housing and is out of sight, is connected to the impeller using the shear bolt #5. If it breaks your augers and impellers wouldnt have any power coming to them through the pulley. If the impeller spins when you hand spin the augers that means your connecting bolt #15 and shear bolts #13 are fine BUT when you turn the engine on and engage the augers and nothing happens then its most likely the impeller shear bolt #5.

The impeller is connected to the auger/auger gear case with the regular bolt, item # 15 shown below. 

The impeller shear bolt sits at the base of the impeller.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

if you have inspected the impeller shear pin on the inside to be fine and the outward bolt to be fine, take the belt cover off between the shute and the motor and see if the belt came off or broke.

inspect the boss cam lock pins also. i caught a tarp once and every pin in the auger housing broke.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

JnC has explained it well. You hit something and then a failure. Auger and impeller turn together by hand but not powered by the engine. Bolt #5 is the most likely cause. Broken belt is highly unlikely. Tension spring failure is possible, causing the belt to not have enough tension. But you would notice this in the auger lever. Broken impeller shaft is possible but again unlikely unless the shafts were rusted to the impeller, in that case something would have to break. Whatever the weakest point is. Augers and impeller need to be removed regularly, clean and grease the shafts so shear bolts can perform as designed. Hopefully it is bolt #5


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

JnC said:


> I think you are confusing the auger shear bolts item number 13 in the illustration below with the main impeller shear bolt item number 5.
> 
> Your issue, at least from the sound of it seems to be the shear bolt #5.
> 
> ...


My Cdn HSS928 2015 model is a similar setup with the impeller shear bolts. However it has 2 #15 bolts instead of a #5 Seems to make no difference thou the #15 breaks the same as the shear bolt. My HS928 has a #15 & #5 The #5 seems to break very easy. I have to replace the #5 fairly regularly. The # 5 can be a real pita to get out of the shaft if its not a clean break. Its a hard place to work a hammer and punch. Sometimes the best way is to dissemble to get it so it can be punched out.


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## tahoesnow (Jan 26, 2018)

y'all are awesome. It was bolt #5. 

Thank you!


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## ZOMGVTEK (Sep 25, 2014)

Yeah, Hondas have effectively 3 shear pins. If you suck up big ice chunks, you're more likely to snap an impeller pin. The auger ones appear to be a bit tougher and take something like a door mat or shoe. Not a bad idea to have a handful of both on hand.

Heres an odd one, this appears to be fatigue. I checked, I couldn't find anything but snow.


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