# scraper bar



## jengele (Nov 1, 2011)

Craftsman 8/26 driftbreaker 536.909800

I want to replace the scraper bar, the existing one is not protecting the edge of the housing and it is getting torn up. It seems to be riveted on. Craftsman doesn't list it as a replaceable item. Can i get an aftermarket one, grind off the old one and rivet a new one on? thoughts, suggestions?


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

Your original scraper blade number is 48464 but no longer made.
Since it did list as a part you must be able to replace it.

Here is a 26" scraper blade for a craftsman: Scraper Blade 790-00121-0637 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

Might help. HCBPH or anyone else that owns a craftsman might have more words of wisdom for you. Good luck!


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

I have just used a piece of flat steel and drilled my own holes. If you want to get fancy use a bench grinder to give the squared edge a point but after a few passed on the asphalt or concrete it will make an edge anyway.

1 1/2 wide by 26 (or the width of your bucket) by 3/16 or 1/8 thick

some of the old craftsmans were rivited. drill them out and use 1/4 inch bolts. I use carriage bolts


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## jengele (Nov 1, 2011)

That sounds good. Hardware store steel. My parts manual lists the Auger cover and scraper assembly together as part number 48458, no mention of a separate item for just the scraper. Simplicity solid 22, where did you find that part number?

In addition, I've noticed that a lot of scrapers are mounted on the inside of the housing. Mine is on the underside. I suppose if its on the underside it protects it better from grinding against the asphalt. I just lowered my gage wheels to lift up the front end a bit anyway. I have an area where there is alot of heaving and the asphalt is very irregular.


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

I found that on sears parts direct via the 536.909800 model number you listed and then it was number 33 on the parts list. I tried to see if there was a scraper bar equivalent with that number but no such luck. Maybe someone on here with Craftsman know how might now of viable replacement or TD had a great idea as well with getting some steel and making your own. 

Repair clinic had sears craftsman parts and that scraper I listed to you was a craftsman 26" so threw it out there to you.


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## jengele (Nov 1, 2011)

I ground the rivets off the old bar. It was worn but there was plenty of steel left and it is very thick and reinforced. My new 1/8" piece of steel looks completely flimsy compared to the old one. In addition, the intake chute has separated from the sidewall and the old scraper bar attachs only to the chute. I'm worried the new bar will be worse than the old one.

(note: I did this about two months ago)


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## jengele (Nov 1, 2011)

My solution is to use both bars. I drilled a row of holes in the old bar behind the old ones so that the bar will sit forward when attached. I drill holes in the new bar and made it long enough that it can bolt to the sidewalls which the old one could not do.


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## jengele (Nov 1, 2011)

I dropped the gage wheels so it rides on the wheels instead of the scraper bar. I used stainless bolts, washers and lock nuts. After this I primed and sprayed it.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

Nice work!! How close are the bolts to the ground?


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## jengele (Nov 1, 2011)

I was worried that the bolts would be too close to the ground too but the scraper bar has about a half inch clearance at the tip and it sits at an angle of roughly 30 degrees so the bolts are up and away from the ground.

I've got an asphalt drive but there is a section where there is severe heaving. My machine really takes a beating.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

td5771 said:


> I have just used a piece of flat steel and drilled my own holes. If you want to get fancy use a bench grinder to give the squared edge a point but after a few passed on the asphalt or concrete it will make an edge anyway.
> 
> 1 1/2 wide by 26 (or the width of your bucket) by 3/16 or 1/8 thick
> 
> some of the old craftsmans were rivited. drill them out and use 1/4 inch bolts. I use carriage bolts


After looking closer, I could see the scraper bar on my 29" craftsman slid up almost level with the bucket (the bolts got loose and slid up). I tuned it around the opposite way and can use the good side, but it has a square edge. I guess I just mount it that way since I bet when it was new, both sides were a square edge?


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

Ok, I flipped around the scraper bar, and it's like brand new on the other side. I then also turned the side skids upside down, see pics. I'm guessing this is how they looked when they were new and rounded?


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

Just a bump, maybe this can help others!


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I weld on a new piece.

The cutting edge, scraper bar, most go on top, inside the housing, the carriage bolts go through with the nuts on the bottom. This way the nuts take the West and the heads don't interfere with the snow.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

JLawrence08648 said:


> I weld on a new piece.
> 
> The cutting edge, scraper bar, most go on top, inside the housing, the carriage bolts go through with the nuts on the bottom. This way the nuts take the West and the heads don't interfere with the snow.


wait, are you saying mine is mounted wrong?










I have mine mounted just like this guy does:


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

jengele said:


> I ground the rivets off the old bar. It was worn but there was plenty of steel left and it is very thick and reinforced. My new 1/8" piece of steel looks completely flimsy compared to the old one. In addition, the intake chute has separated from the sidewall and the old scraper bar attachs only to the chute. I'm worried the new bar will be worse than the old one.
> 
> (note: I did this about two months ago)


Use 1/4 inch or 3/16 inch steel. Be solid and should wear well. If you have a welder you can add an angle to the end to fasten to the side wall.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

No, you are right. I was wrong. The scraper bar goes underneath, the head of the bolts are on top entering the top fastening with the nuts on the bottom against the scraper bar


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I am working on that same model I believe, 9/29, Your side skids are ground off, used to have a flat piece on the bottom and those are expensive for what ever reason, The bolts are the same as a Toro 521 so I ordered some Toro skids (after market anyway for the toro) and they bolted right up. Same bolt distance. Also the skids are the new ones and fit well.

The scraper bar I ordered, Yes both sides are squared off.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29-SHAVE-P...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

is this the same blower? New scraper blade on this one too, It was $30 I think.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

Dauntae said:


> I am working on that same model I believe, 9/29, Your side skids are ground off, used to have a flat piece on the bottom and those are expensive for what ever reason, The bolts are the same as a Toro 521 so I ordered some Toro skids (after market anyway for the toro) and they bolted right up. Same bolt distance.
> 
> is this the same blower? New scraper blade on this one too, It was $30 I think.


Yep! That's same as mine! I don't have that black bar on the top on mine. That's to remove snow?

Also, happen to have toro part # for the side skids?


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Yes but unfortunately they ARE red LOL But I have a few cans of black epoxy paint I use on augers so I just made them black to match.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3521-421-5...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
There are metal chutes that are drop in replacements on these craftsman too, They come off a smaller blower but work well and last much better than the pastic ones that like to break on these. This is a different craftsman I put one on. This had the same plastic chute but was badly damaged.

OH and yes that is the brush for clearing the chute, Most have a shovel but these came with a brush, I seem to get lucky with the brushes being still there LOL Both of these had them.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

JLawrence08648 said:


> No, you are right. I was wrong. The scraper bar goes underneath, the head of the bolts are on top entering the top fastening with the nuts on the bottom against the scraper bar












Am i? lol. My neighbor looks at mine, he has a simplicity, and he says my scraper bar is mounted wrong and should be mounted on TOP... HMM


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

How you can tell. They all use carriage bolts, round heads with a square underneath the head. Whichever piece, scraper bar or housing, has the squares, that's the top, that's where the bolts enter from.


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## Money_man (Feb 16, 2015)

My JD had the scraper bar (clearing blade) mounted on the inside of the housing.


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

Same here.


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

14-20" coming today. My scraper bar is worn out in the middle again it seems. 536887992 - but will see how it does.


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