# JD 826 Refresh



## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

I recently purchased a late model JD 826 (sn 575xxx). I did not start and hear it run since there was no fuel in it. I took the owner's word that "it ran fine" (heard that before). The blower looked in nice original condition and the price was right (so I thought). Now the "fun" begins. The fuel shutoff valve is missing (new one ordered). The carburetor was replaced but I plan to rebuild the original one and reinstall. There are a few other items that are either missing or need replaced.

First on the list is the module wiring. There is a red wire that is cut off (see picture). I looked at the TM1234 and it appears to be a ground wire. If so, why was it cut off? Can anyone confirm the wire connection? I checked JD Parts and a new module is $166 (ouch!).

More updates to follow.....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Someone here shared this service manual for those awhile back. Here is the link. I own 4 of those units, they are great machines when working properly. If you just want to fire it up, just leave the coil lead on the insulated block and remove the other leads for now, until you can trace down the problem. I would bet that there is a premature grounding incident causing no spark. That cut wire on the module can be spliced/soldered no problem. You'll want to open and inspect the differential and add a zerk fitting on it. Also, careful not to lose the keyway for the Octagon Clutch plate, as it is one of the tiniest I have seen .... The manual will walk you through just about everything.

You will find the service manual very valuable ... it also has the wiring diagram and some ways to troubleshoot it. . most times it is wrong wiring or a bad connection .... 









526-726-732-826-832-1032-TM1234-01740.pdf


Shared with Dropbox




www.dropbox.com





Here is my fully restored one, and the ones I am working on restoring ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Sorry about the rambling on, I realize now this is just a continuation of a previous thread.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

No problem and thanks for the information. This is my third 826 but the other two (2) are early models (not solid state ignition). So they do not have the same module. I am waiting on the fuel shutoff valve then I can re-plumb the fuel line to the carburetor. I will then try to start the engine with the replacement carb just to check it out.

Is the Woodruff key you mention PN 26H70? It is missing and I have a replacement (1/8"x1/2"). The clutch plate (M46991) is also missing (disk M45206/M151901 is there). i ordered a new plate ($50.69 - ouch!) and washer (M83361). Where is the location of the grease zerk you mention? Picture?

Thanks again!


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Now I don't own a John Deere so take it for what it is worth, but that wire just seems to be broken off of the ground tie point according to the wiring diagram in Oneacers Technical manual.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Toon said:


> Now I don't own a John Deere so take it for what it is worth, but that wire just seems to be broken off of the ground tie point according to the wiring diagram in Oneancers Technical manual.


I saw the same thing on the wiring diagram. But I did not look further. I will take a closer look and see if there is a broken terminal at the ground point.
Thank you!


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

I do not see a terminal with a broken red wire. Again, I will try starting it later this week/weekend and find out if it will run with the broken wire. In the mean time make a splice wire with a terminal to attach to the ground point. Guessing it ran for the PO with a broken wire. Looking at the wiring diagram, it is a safety for the auger and drive - to prevent starting with either/both engaged.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

From this previous thread, that red wire is supposed to go to ground:

















John Deere 826


Good day all, I was given a JD 826 snowblower and wondering if anyone can tell me what this circular item is attached to the outside of the motor. As you can see by the picture it appears to be an option for this blower and 1 wire is broken off and the red wire is attached. Any help would be...




www.snowblowerforum.com





Kudos to @Grunt for uploading the owner's manual and the tech manual.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Today I did another look at the wiring harness on the 826. There is one (1) black wire and one (1) green wire coming from the control panel. The diagram shows two (2) black wires. The black wire is connected to the yellow module wire. The green wire comes from the key switch and is connected to a engine ground. 

Something I also noticed is there are two (2) throttle levers, one on the control panel and one on the engine (see my original picture). This bids the questions, why two (2) throttle levers and did someone add the engine mounted lever/control assembly with red knob from another engine? Is the module also from another machine/engine? The OM does not show the engine mounted throttle lever. My newer Ariens has the throttle lever on the engine only. Definitely a can of worms.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

That unit came from the factory with the throttle up in the dash. Someone at some point switched out the throttle body to one with a handle at the engine cowl as well.

That module comes with the machine and is the safety control for the switch up under the dash, which controls the left and right upper hand levers, which is for the auger engage safety. (i.e. ... the auger is only engaged when one of these is depressed, and engine will cut out if not disengaged before releasing either handle.)


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Have you been into the slip clutch differential system yet ..... Usually, they are frozen up and rusted, due to lack of grease ... that's why you should put in a grease zerk while in there. I am sure the axle bushings need replacing as well ..... 

I am on my 5th one, so ask away if you need any assistance .... 

You already own one, so I am sure you know how great that zero turn system is ... probably the best I have ever seen, except maybe for the ratchet system zero turn on the Ariens from years ago.....


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> Have you been into the slip clutch differential system yet ..... Usually, they are frozen up and rusted, due to lack of grease ... that's why you should put in a grease zerk while in there. I am sure the axle bushings need replacing as well .....


I have not looked at the drive system. FWIW I pushed it around the garage and seems to turn without any resistance. Do you have a picture of the zerk you installed and the location? Did you drill/tap a hole? Thanks!



Oneacer said:


> That unit came from the factory with the throttle up in the dash. Someone at some point switched out the throttle body to one with a handle at the engine cowl as well.
> 
> That module comes with the machine and is the safety control for the switch up under the dash, which controls the left and right upper hand levers, which is for the auger engage safety. (i.e. ... the auger is only engaged when one of these is depressed, and engine will cut out if not disengaged before releasing either handle.)


As I mentioned my other 826s are early models so not direct comparisons. After I noticed the second throttle lever, I suspected someone changed it. The original AM38449 is NLA. It subs to the newer Tecumseh engine mounted lever. Now the search begins for an original throttle assembly. Grrrr! I will try to lube/adjust the control and see if it functions properly from the dash.

Perhaps it is time to abandon this "new" unit and work on my older model(s). This "new" unit is starting to be a money pit.

Thanks again for your assistance!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yes, drilled and tapped a hole for the zerk in the aluminum differential case when it is apart .... I Put one right below one of the gear locations ... I'll post a photo tomorrow ...... 

A working, greased proper differential , the machine should spin wheels around 360 degrees in place ..... The large cross wing adjustment nut is what draws against the clutch disc nut, which will give you direct drive ..... I rarely tighten it all the way for direct .... I leave it snug for slip drive, zero turn as needed.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Stopping by the dealer today (Friday) to pickup the ordered parts (fuel shutoff, etc.). I plan to work on it Saturday and get it running.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I but 90-degree fuel shut-offs by the bag from Amazon. Also, here is a photo of the zerk fitting I did on the recent JD 826 differential that I am working on, along with a photo of the JD 826 I am getting ready to sell.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

This one I am getting ready to sell in the fore front was in worse shape than the one behind it that I just started working on.


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> I but 90-degree fuel shut-offs by the bag from Amazon. Also, here is a photo of the zerk fitting I did on the recent JD 826 differential that I am working on, along with a photo of the JD 826 I am getting ready to sell.
> 
> View attachment 198704
> 
> ...


What is the bracket for in the center of the wheel rim? Did this machine have hub caps?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

That is the slip clutch differential adjuster .... brilliant setup for zero turn on these units ..... unfortunately, they never installed a zerk fitting for greasing the differential, and many people let these machines just sit, thus requires some effort to bring them back in working order, but once restored, they will give you another 50 years of service.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

It runs! Today I installed the fuel shutoff valve with some new hose and spring clamps. Installed new spark plug, added some fresh fuel, primed it a couple times, and pulled the starter cord. Engine started after a couple pulls (this was with the replacement carb). Replaced missing parts for the locking differential. Adjusted the travel selector and clutch rods. I did not disassemble the differential but it did 360s with no problem. Installed new "poly" chute hinge. Lubed the auger shaft and chute rotation mechanism. Adjusted the scraper bar (looks like the original bar and shoes with little wear). I ordered new Robalon poly skid shoes from the auction site. Plan to install them so I do not scuff my new concrete driveway. Need to change the engine oil and it is ready for the white stuff!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Nice .... You lucked out on the differential, as all five of the ones I restored were dried, rusted and seized, including the internal left side axle... they cleaned up nice and with the zerk fitting now, will never have that issue again.

Those are 2-inch on center skids ... where did you order Poly skids that size from? I wound up making my Poly skids to those dimensions.

Make sure you use a Full Synthetic 5W30 oil.

Terrific machines ... enjoy.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Robalon A118BS 2"OC here:








2pk Robalon A118BS Composite Skid Shoes Replaces John Deere M46992 | eBay


Unlike many OEM skid shoes, Robalons are reversible which make them more cost effective than a tradition skid shoe. Replaces John Deere M46992.



www.ebay.com





Plan to use Partial Synthetic 5W-30 oil since it sits in my heated garage.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Here are the ones I make for my own JD 826's but will copy that link and pass it on for others that may be looking .... 32.00 w/free shipping acceptable for a pair of poly skids with the 2-inch c/l unless of course you make your own.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

I forgot to mention, the engine will start with the auger engaged. I need to make a red ground wire and connect to the safety switch module. I will be only person using the blower but I am anal about "things" not connected/working properly.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah .... that module wants to "see" a proper ground wire from the auger system in order to start the machine. .... the red wire will go to the live plastic block .... thus, the other wire will go up to the left top plastic safety handle, the right safety handle and the engage/dis-engage auger switch. It will see the ground when starting the unit, as in dis-engage, that lever is grounded. Then, in order to engage auger while machine is running, you have to hold at least one safety lever, L or R or both, so it sees a ground. That way in case you fall, and let go of the machine, it breaks the ground bond closed circuit, and the machine will shut down by grounding the live feed coming from the ignition module.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Robalon skids arrived on Monday. Need to get them installed along with the NOS electric starter kit. Plan to use new SS hardware with the skids.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Electric starter kit installed and works.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

I have not had time to install the Robalon skids and change the oil. Too many other "irons in the fire". But plan to do these in the coming weeks. I will post some pics of the skids.

Question - does anyone have the correct "throttle control assembly" for an 826/1032? Or does anyone know the correct/original Tecumseh part number for the assembly (JD pn AM38449)? Is the corresponding Tecumseh pn 38449? I see some on the auction site but are the replacement with external throttle lever located at the carburetor (refer to an earlier pic with red knob). The original 826/1032 shutoff was only on the control console. I tried lubing the throttle cable but it will not go to "shutoff" at the console. I need to turn the key off or move the red knob lever to shut off the engine. Thanks for any assistance.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

There are a few assemblies to control the throttle on the Tecumseh, some are at the cowl, others at the handles with enclosed cable, and some allow for both.

To adjust the throttle position cable, many are done just by loosening and repositioning the outer cable sleeve and retightening.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> There are a few assemblies to control the throttle on the Tecumseh, some are at the cowl, others at the handles with enclosed cable, and some allow for both.
> 
> To adjust the throttle position cable, many are done just by loosening and repositioning the outer cable sleeve and retightening.


Thanks for the reply.
I tried adjusting the cable but it still will not allow the lever at the lower control to go to shutoff. As of now the only way to shutoff the engine is to turn the key off. Otherwise I need to manually move the lower lever to shutoff. Lubing the cable did help but it did not resolve the issue.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

So just use the key, or just run a bent paperclip or any other tab which is grounded to the insulated live ground block to the stop position of the throttle lever where it would ground and stop the engine. Pretty easy resolve actually, without having to replace anything. This is similar to what the original would be like ....


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Had a chance today to work on my 826. Installed the Robalon poly skids with new SS hardware. The poly skids are thicker so needed to use longer carriage bolts (1"). The "original" skids were in excellent condition. Based on the overall condition of the blower, I think the skids and scraper bar are original. I also replaced the scraper bolts with SS hardware. Below are before and after pics.


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Another nice day so I worked on the blower. I located a new control assembly (TE-34664/JD AM38449) and a used ignition interlock module (M89446/AM129822). Installed the items and great success. I can now control the engine shutoff from the console throttle lever. The module did not make a difference but discovered a missing ground wire. So I fabricated and installed a wire assembly. Safety system works properly except the RH safety handlebar lever. I need to investigate further. Likely that is why the safety system was disabled by the PO. Close to being done but no cigar!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Remove the tiny c-clip for that safety lever, being very careful not to lose that or the spring under the handle .... you will have to clean the contacts, and possibly change out the rivet that the spring tab compresses against, if you are not getting a good ground. A good way to test it is ti fire it up, engage the auger and hold the wire against that rivet ... if it does not work, i.e., it stalls out, then ground that wire somewhere else ..... as I mentioned, its a great design when working properly.


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