# After-market LEDs on hss928aatd.



## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

I finally picked up the lighting I want to add to my new Honda machine. With my old machine there was no battery, so I added a rectifier and capacitors and fuses to convert the 12vac off the engine to 12vdc. But since the new machine has a 12v battery, I'm now thinking I can just tap directly off the battery terminals and add the new lighting. The components I bought include a wiring kit with relay, switch and fuse. Am I missing something important why I should not wire direct off the battery? I plan on mounting two leds on each front corner of the control panel. Pictures below show the components I've chosen and the battery. I intend to leave the integral led on the machine from the factory.









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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

You don't really need the relay. The purpose of the relay is to make the power wire that's going to the lights as short as possible so they are as bright as possible and secondly to allow the switching circuit to not carry so much current. Like using the fog light switch inside the car to trip the relay to then power up the lights rather than run the power from the battery into the car, to the switch and then back out to the front of the vehicle to the lights. In your case it's only a 4-5' run of wire so using a fuse and the switch is more than good.

Or ... if you wanted you could use the relay. Splice into the positive side of the stock LEDs circuit and use that as the "ON" to the relay and just wire and fuse the two lights to the battery and relay. That way when the stock headlight comes on it trips the relay and turns the two added LEDs on.
In the diagram the ON/OFF switch is where you'd be doing that splice to operate the two additional lights. I don't know how the stock light comes on but as long as that splice is near the stock LED the additional two will only power up when the stock light comes on.

You'd also want to use the fuse that came in the kit rather than the one in the drawing as I'm pretty sure as that amperage it was for incandescent or halogen. :wink2:

.


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## Marcel Suzuki (Sep 19, 2018)

Single flood HSS724 here


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Edited that schematic to better show what I was talking about.


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

Go right off the 12v battery. Add a fuse and a switch. The fuse in case down the road the wires short some how, you won't kill the battery


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> You don't really need the relay. The purpose of the relay is to make the power wire that's going to the lights as short as possible so they are as bright as possible and secondly to allow the switching circuit to not carry so much current. Like using the fog light switch inside the car to trip the relay to then power up the lights rather than run the power from the battery into the car, to the switch and then back out to the front of the vehicle to the lights. In your case it's only a 4-5' run of wire so using a fuse and the switch is more than good.
> 
> Or ... if you wanted you could use the relay. Splice into the positive side of the stock LEDs circuit and use that as the "ON" to the relay and just wire and fuse the two lights to the battery and relay. That way when the stock headlight comes on it trips the relay and turns the two added LEDs on.
> In the diagram the ON/OFF switch is where you'd be doing that splice to operate the two additional lights. I don't know how the stock light comes on but as long as that splice is near the stock LED the additional two will only power up when the stock light comes on.
> ...


Thanks for the guidance kiss4afrog. Looking forward to getting this all hooked up before the snow starts flying. Hopefully I still have a few more weeks. 

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

Thanks for all the advice everyone. Finally got around to installing the aftermarket LED's on my HSS928AATD. Decided to keep it simple and just tap directly off the 12v battery. Added waterproof switch to control panel and included one 3A fuse going to each light under the control pannel. I also used a waterproof connector under the control panel where the feed from the battery connects. Serves two purposes, 1) when I put the machine away after winter I can disconnect so there's zero chance someone flips the switch off-season and kills the battery, 2) if I ever need to remove the control panel I can just unplug the power feed for the lights. Same as unplugging the factory connector to the joystick. The lights I chose are posted earlier in this thread. The two 3A fuses are the in-line waterproof type you can find at any auto parts store.









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## northeast (Dec 29, 2017)

Looks good


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

You can pick up +12VDC from the blue wire coming off the ignition coil and use it for the input voltage to the switch. Then the light relay won't energize unless the ignition switch is turned on, and you don't have to worry about it draining the battery. This is the same input that is used to energize the hour meter on the HSS1332ATD.

_*Edit 10/29/2018: Now believe the info in red above to be incorrect... *__*Honda says that the blue wire only has 5VDC @ 3600RPM, so use the red wire coming off the Chuter rectifier instead for triggering an LED relay.*_


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## Cgreencorn1 (Sep 5, 2018)

Quick question in reguards to the extra lights, will the snowblower charge the battery enough to continue to run lights? 
For example

1 hour a blow time with 2 extra led lights 36 watts each and OEM light. Will it require a charge through out the winter season, or will the "alternator" maintain it?, or even a 3 hour blow time.


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> You can pick up +12VDC from the blue wire coming off the ignition coil and use it for the input voltage to the switch. Then the light relay won't energize unless the ignition switch is turned on, and you don't have to worry about it draining the battery. This is the same input that is used to energize the hour meter on the HSS1332ATD.


I did not realize there was 12vdc from the ignition coil. I only paid attention to the 12vac going to the factory led assembly. If I move my connection from the +12vdc connection on the battery to the 12vdc tap on the ignition coil, can I leave the ground connection on the - side of the battery as-is?

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

cwolcott said:


> I did not realize there was 12vdc from the ignition coil. I only paid attention to the 12vac going to the factory led assembly. If I move my connection from the +12vdc connection on the battery to the 12vdc tap on the ignition coil, can I leave the ground connection on the - side of the battery as-is?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


Also, I am not using a relay.

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

Cgreencorn1 said:


> Quick question in reguards to the extra lights, will the snowblower charge the battery enough to continue to run lights?
> For example
> 
> 1 hour a blow time with 2 extra led lights 36 watts each and OEM light. Will it require a charge through out the winter season, or will the "alternator" maintain it?, or even a 3 hour blow time.


Good question. The leds I installed each draw 1.5 amps. So 3 amps total draw when on. I don't know what the charge current is when the engine is running. Does anyone know? What would that charge current need to be to both power these to leds direct from the battery and recharge the battery?

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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

cwolcott said:


> I don't know what the charge current is when the engine is running. Does anyone know?


 According to Honda (posted by [email protected] quite some time ago) the Charge Coil generates 12V / 0.8A @ 3,000 rpm, but doesn't say what it is @ 3600ish RPM. I have a full battery charge/discharge monitor that I'm installing when my blower comes back from having Service Bulletins 30 & 31 installed, so I'll hopefully know more then...


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

There's a quick way to know if it's putting out enough current. Start the engine, run it up to full RPM and let it run for a minute. Put a volt meter on the battery and see what DC voltage you're showing. If the voltage is pretty steady , go ahead and turn the lights on and see if the voltage drops. If it does, you're pulling more power than the engine is putting out. If it stays steady, the engine is putting out enough power to run the lights.


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> You can pick up +12VDC from the blue wire coming off the ignition coil and use it for the input voltage to the switch. Then the light relay won't energize unless the ignition switch is turned on, and you don't have to worry about it draining the battery. This is the same input that is used to energize the hour meter on the HSS1332ATD.


Tabora, so I make sure I have the right one, it's the blue wire at the ignition coil labeled "LED" in the wiring diagram, right. Schematically it looks like it's a pinout on the ignition coil that goes to nothing on my machine.

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## Cgreencorn1 (Sep 5, 2018)

cwolcott said:


> tabora said:
> 
> 
> > You can pick up +12VDC from the blue wire coming off the ignition coil and use it for the input voltage to the switch. Then the light relay won't energize unless the ignition switch is turned on, and you don't have to worry about it draining the battery. This is the same input that is used to energize the hour meter on the HSS1332ATD.
> ...


I used the red wire to trigger my relay from the chuter motor rectifier. Its a power source only while running.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

cwolcott said:


> Tabora, so I make sure I have the right one, it's the blue wire at the ignition coil labeled "LED" in the wiring diagram, right. Schematically it looks like it's a pinout on the ignition coil that goes to nothing on my machine.


 It is apparently only used on the HSS1332ATD for the built-in hour meter.

_*Edit 10/29/2018: Honda says that the blue wire only has 5VDC @ 3600RPM, so use the red wire coming off the Chuter rectifier instead for triggering an LED relay.*_


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

Cgreencorn1 said:


> I used the red wire to trigger my relay from the chuter motor rectifier. Its a power source only while running.


I understand now. Thanks!

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

rslifkin said:


> There's a quick way to know if it's putting out enough current. Start the engine, run it up to full RPM and let it run for a minute. Put a volt meter on the battery and see what DC voltage you're showing. If the voltage is pretty steady , go ahead and turn the lights on and see if the voltage drops. If it does, you're pulling more power than the engine is putting out. If it stays steady, the engine is putting out enough power to run the lights.


Thanks for the suggestion. I will try this tomorrow after work and see what I find.

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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

tabora said:


> I am using it to fire the relay on my big LED light, and without a relay on my small back-facing LED. I couldn't find a spec for the current available there, so I've asked Honda PE Customer Service...


 Apparently I was misinformed regarding the blue wire... Honda responded, "Voltage on the blue wire is 3.5 volts at idle to 5.0 volts at 3600 rpm's 1.5mA at idle to 2.5mA at 1400 rpm's and back to 1.5mA at 3600 rpm's". This doesn't sound entirely accurate, but I won't be able to check it for a couple of weeks until I get my blower back. 

So, the source that Cgreencorn1 mentioned in Post 17 appears to be the correct way to go:


Cgreencorn1 said:


> I used the red wire to trigger my relay from the chuter motor rectifier. Its a power source only while running.


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

rslifkin said:


> There's a quick way to know if it's putting out enough current. Start the engine, run it up to full RPM and let it run for a minute. Put a volt meter on the battery and see what DC voltage you're showing. If the voltage is pretty steady , go ahead and turn the lights on and see if the voltage drops. If it does, you're pulling more power than the engine is putting out. If it stays steady, the engine is putting out enough power to run the lights.


rslifkin, I just tried this tonight.

Full throttle, lights off: 14.3vdc
Full throttle, lights on: slow decay to 12.34 vdc and stays there
Low throttle, lights on: drops to 12.31 vdc and stays there

I guess this means it cannot power the lights and charge battery?

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> It is apparently only used on the HSS1332ATD for the built-in hour meter.
> 
> _*Edit 10/29/2018: Honda says that the blue wire only has 5VDC @ 3600RPM, so use the red wire coming off the Chuter rectifier instead for triggering an LED relay.*_


Thanks tabora. It appears the leds I am using are drawing too much current directly from the battery to power them and charge the battery. Per rslifkin suggestion, I tested battery voltage at full throttle with lights on and off. Voltage drops from 14.4 to 12.3. If this means it's not charging battery at that voltage, I need to find another 12v source. So now I'm thinking I need to build a bridge rectifier and run it off one of the stator like on my old machine. I have all the required parts and built them several times before. Any idea where I can pick up a 12vac signal to run through the rectifier?

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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

cwolcott said:


> rslifkin, I just tried this tonight.
> 
> Full throttle, lights off: 14.3vdc
> Full throttle, lights on: slow decay to 12.34 vdc and stays there
> ...


 Actually, that doesn't sound TOO bad... My BMW (the only other widget I have with a full voltage monitoring system) goes from a charge voltage of 14.0 with no lights on to 12.5 with ALL the lights on, then reads 12.6 or so after the lights and charging system are shut down.

When you shut off the lights after 1/2 hour running at 3600ish RPM and then shut down the blower, what does the battery read? Better yet, can your multimeter handle the current draw to/from the battery when running? If so, you can monitor the current the battery is getting or giving to support the lights.


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

12.3 volts with the lights on means you're definitely draining the battery. Anything less than about 12.6 - 12.8 volts indicates battery drain. So you'll want to look at powering the lights off the AC side of the system, most likely.


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> Actually, that doesn't sound TOO bad... My BMW (the only other widget I have with a full voltage monitoring system) goes from a charge voltage of 14.0 with no lights on to 12.5 with ALL the lights on, then reads 12.6 or so after the lights and charging system are shut down.
> 
> When you shut off the lights after 1/2 hour running at 3600ish RPM and then shut down the blower, what does the battery read? Better yet, can your multimeter handle the current draw to/from the battery when running? If so, you can monitor the current the battery is getting or giving to support the lights.


Thanks taboro. I'll try that tomorrow night or wednesday. One thing seems for sure, I better not try to also power my heated hand grips, yet to be installed, off the battery too. For those I will build the bridge rectifier and need to find an ac source on the machine I can use as input.

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

rslifkin said:


> 12.3 volts with the lights on means you're definitely draining the battery. Anything less than about 12.6 - 12.8 volts indicates battery drain. So you'll want to look at powering the lights off the AC side of the system, most likely.


Thanks rslifkin. Hopefully I can find a 12vac source somewhere on my hss928 like I used on my hs724 to drive an ac to dc rectifier. My old hs724 had a wire tap just for this from the stator. Don't see similar on the hss928. At least not exposed and ready for use.

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

Cgreencorn1 said:


> I used the red wire to trigger my relay from the chuter motor rectifier. Its a power source only while running.


Do you know if that is 12vdc? If yes and I use it ti drive the leds through my light switch, I wonder if the chute motor rectifier can handle the current draw of the chute motor and the 3A from my two leds?

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## Cgreencorn1 (Sep 5, 2018)

cwolcott said:


> Cgreencorn1 said:
> 
> 
> > I used the red wire to trigger my relay from the chuter motor rectifier. Its a power source only while running.
> ...


I would personally use a relay to run the new led lights, grab the power for the lights off the battery fused of course which is run through the relay. Chute motor control is just the trigger to power the lights, and use your switch to break the ground for daytime use. I didnt use a switch to shut lights off durring daytime blowing. Cant say for sure if chute motor can handle or like the 3a draw from the led lights. My setup was for 6a draw. 

Yes its 12 volts.


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

The whole point of his question was that running the lights off the battery will drain the battery, as the blower isn't putting enough power into the battery to keep up. 

Personally, I'd be looking to see if there's a stator available for that engine with sufficient output and just a single AC out. Then run it through a rectifier / regulator setup to the battery and power everything from the battery (with a master kill switch to cut power when not using the blower).


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

cwolcott said:


> Hopefully I can find a 12vac source somewhere on my hss928


I don't think you'll find much available... Maybe from the chuter coil? Per Honda:Electric start HSS models a have large multi-winding coil, which has three outputs, all AC volts:
(1) The Motor Coil, used to run the chute motors, generates 9V / 11A @ 3,350 rpm.
(2) The Charge Coil, used to charge the battery, generates 12V / 0.8A @ 3,000 rpm.
(3) The Lamp Coil, used to fire the LED worklamp, generates 11.5V / 0.36A @ 1950 rpm (and then goes up from there...). ***
​The chute motors and battery charging are converted to DC volts. The work lamp is supplied AC volts and the charging circuit and the chute motors each have a separate regulator/rectifier. 
​*** I have measured the Lamp Coil output voltage with the LED disconnected. See graph below.

You could always bump up to the larger 18Ah HSS1332ATD battery and use an external charger to refill any loss. BTW, what grips did you get? Great video on installing Oxford Hot Grips here:


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

When I installed LEDS on my HSS I used the chuter motor rectifier DC output to trigger a relay connected to battery power with a toggle switch. But I only found a 24vdc source. I added a 1 amp 12v regulator to the circuit. 

B+ volts do drop with the lights on but its far from sucking the battery dry. Either way, I don't use them if theres daylight, and at night ill turn the lights off and leave the machine running for a minute before shutting down. 

2 years without an issue.


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> I don't think you'll find much available... Maybe from the chuter coil? Per Honda:Electric start HSS models a have large multi-winding coil, which has three outputs, all AC volts:
> (1) The Motor Coil, used to run the chute motors, generates 9V / 11A @ 3,350 rpm.
> (2) The Charge Coil, used to charge the battery, generates 12V / 0.8A @ 3,000 rpm.
> (3) The Lamp Coil, used to fire the LED worklamp, generates 11.5V / 0.36A @ 1950 rpm (and then goes up from there...). ***
> ...


Those are the grips I purchased to install after watching that video a few months ago.

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

drmerdp said:


> When I installed LEDS on my HSS I used the chuter motor rectifier DC output to trigger a relay connected to battery power with a toggle switch. But I only found a 24vdc source. I added a 1 amp 12v regulator to the circuit.
> 
> B+ volts do drop with the lights on but its far from sucking the battery dry. Either way, I don't use them if theres daylight, and at night ill turn the lights off and leave the machine running for a minute before shutting down.
> 
> 2 years without an issue.


How many amps do your leds draw. Is the chuter motor rectifier the 24vdc source you mention?

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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> I don't think you'll find much available... Maybe from the chuter coil? Per Honda:Electric start HSS models a have large multi-winding coil, which has three outputs, all AC volts:
> (1) The Motor Coil, used to run the chute motors, generates 9V / 11A @ 3,350 rpm.
> (2) The Charge Coil, used to charge the battery, generates 12V / 0.8A @ 3,000 rpm.
> (3) The Lamp Coil, used to fire the LED worklamp, generates 11.5V / 0.36A @ 1950 rpm (and then goes up from there...). ***
> ...


So at full throttle (3600 rpm) the work light coil outputs around 28 vac? Do you know if the current capacity increases as well? Sorry, went to school for electronics technology, but that was over 30 years ago and pretty rusty on the fundamentals.

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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

cwolcott said:


> So at full throttle (3600 rpm) the work light coil outputs around 28 vac? Do you know if the current capacity increases as well? Sorry, went to school for electronics technology, but that was over 30 years ago and pretty rusty on the fundamentals.


No idea about the available current on that circuit, other than the spec Honda quoted. Can't do any testing, since my blower is still at the dealer. Use your multimeter in-line on one leg at the LED connector (see below) to get the current with the lamp running to see if it fluctuates.


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> No idea about the available current on that circuit, other than the spec Honda quoted. Can't do any testing, since my blower is still at the dealer. Use your multimeter in-line on one leg at the LED connector (see below) to get the current with the lamp running to see if it fluctuates.


Thanks tabora. I'll try this in the morning.

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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

cwolcott said:


> How many amps do your leds draw. Is the chuter motor rectifier the 24vdc source you mention?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


I used it simply as a trigger for the relay. I wanted to make sure the lights didn’t get left on and kill the battery by accident.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

cwolcott said:


> The leds I installed each draw 1.5 amps. So 3 amps total draw when on.


I think that if you measure the actual current draw on those lights, you'll find that the actual draw is less than 3 amps. I just measured the draw on my big light bar (see below) and it's "only" 7ish amps.


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> I think that if you measure the actual current draw on those lights, you'll find that the actual draw is less than 3 amps. I just measured the draw on my big light bar (see below) and it's "only" 7ish amps.


Wow, yeah, I was going by specs from Blazer that said they draw 3A each. Now knowing what your bar is drawing 3 A can't be right.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

cwolcott said:


> Thanks tabora. I'll try this in the morning.


Have you ever been able to measure the current at the LED connector and the total draw of your new LED bars?


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> Have you ever been able to measure the current at the LED connector and the total draw of your new LED bars?


Just finally got it done yesterday. Had to buy a new meter. The two leds combined draw 2.6A. Pretty close to the 1.5A ea spec's by the manufacturer.

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## Cgreencorn1 (Sep 5, 2018)

cwolcott said:


> tabora said:
> 
> 
> > Have you ever been able to measure the current at the LED connector and the total draw of your new LED bars?
> ...


Went out to check amp draw of my 2 led lights 36 watt each. Both are drawing 4.8 amps in total. 
I also put a switch in to turn off for daytime use. Figured it would be easier to do it now then in the middle of winter.


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## mmosberg (Feb 9, 2016)

drmerdp said:


> When I installed LEDS on my HSS I used the chuter motor rectifier DC output to trigger a relay connected to battery power with a toggle switch. But I only found a 24vdc source. I added a 1 amp 12v regulator to the circuit.
> 
> B+ volts do drop with the lights on but its far from sucking the battery dry. Either way, I don't use them if theres daylight, and at night ill turn the lights off and leave the machine running for a minute before shutting down.
> 
> 2 years without an issue.


Hello drmerdp.

Just bought a HSS 970A ETD (the European version of the HSS 928) and I want to install as strong work light as possible on the machine. I live quite far to the north and the days are pretty short here in the snow season. Quite disappointing to see that the battery charging capacity of the machine is only 0.8 amps @3000 rpm. I have set my eyes on a couple of wide beam LED lamps rated to 24 W each, which equals about 4 amps in total. How many amps are your LEDS drawing?

By the way does anyone know if the charging capacity is increasing proportionally with increased rpms up to max @3600 rpm?


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## mmosberg (Feb 9, 2016)

cwolcott said:


> Just finally got it done yesterday. Had to buy a new meter. The two leds combined draw 2.6A. Pretty close to the 1.5A ea spec's by the manufacturer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


How did you end up wiring your lamps? Any issues with battery drainage?


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

mmosberg said:


> Hello drmerdp.
> 
> Just bought a HSS 970A ETD (the European version of the HSS 928) and I want to install as strong work light as possible on the machine. I live quite far to the north and the days are pretty short here in the snow season. Quite disappointing to see that the battery charging capacity of the machine is only 0.8 amps @3000 rpm. I have set my eyes on a couple of wide beam LED lamps rated to 24 W each, which equals about 4 amps in total. How many amps are your LEDS drawing?
> 
> By the way does anyone know if the charging capacity is increasing proportionally with increased rpms up to max @3600 rpm?


Hey, I added two 18W lamps, connected to the battery. And never had an issue with an over draw on the battery. All in all, 2 24W lamps shouldn't be a problem.

Higher engine rpms have a linear effect on alternator output. So if you are spinning 3500rpms, 3600rpms will provide additional current. The battery is fed through a regulator/rectifier which converts AC to DC and prevents overcharging.

Ive been thinking about going to a combo spot/flood light at higher wattage then my 18s.


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## cwolcott (Feb 26, 2018)

mmosberg said:


> How did you end up wiring your lamps? Any issues with battery drainage?


I ended up connecting direct to battery with just a single on/off switch in place. Winter in SE WI has been a non-event so far this year. So no real world testing yet. I bought a battery tender and will keep the machine on that. I'll post an update as soon as I can really test it. Someone said only six more Mondays to spring. That's not good.  

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## mmosberg (Feb 9, 2016)

Fixed two 15W LED floodlights on my new HSS 970A. Ended up connecting them to the battery, with a 5A fuse and a lighted switch on the console. Measured the current they draw to 2.2 ampere. Also noticed that with the engine running at high idle there is no voltage drop on the battery when they are switched on, 14.4 Volt. I think there is no reason to fear battery drainage with this set up.

Also installed a digital tachometer. High idle was 3500 rpm and idle was 2200 rpm. I adjusted high to 3650 rpm and low to 2000 rpm. Waiting for the snow now......


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## blue dragon (Mar 11, 2019)

mmosberg said:


> Fixed two 15W LED floodlights on my new HSS 970A. Ended up connecting them to the battery, with a 5A fuse and a lighted switch on the console. Measured the current they draw to 2.2 ampere. Also noticed that with the engine running at high idle there is no voltage drop on the battery when they are switched on, 14.4 Volt. I think there is no reason to fear battery drainage with this set up.
> 
> Also installed a digital tachometer. High idle was 3500 rpm and idle was 2200 rpm. I adjusted high to 3650 rpm and low to 2000 rpm. Waiting for the snow now......


Interesting that you have an hour meter on what is essentially a HSS928.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

blue dragon said:


> Interesting that you have an hour meter on what is essentially a HSS928.


Yes, in both Canada and other markets the 28" (70cm) D model blower seems to get the same bells and whistles as the 32" does in the US.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Great thread, guys! Lots of helpful info here.

Happy New Year!

Mike


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