# MTD Snow Power Plus model 315E660G522



## ~smokey~ (Feb 14, 2020)

*I was just given this snowblower by my good neighbor who is moving away, he bought a new carb for it which has been packed away so I may have to wait for him to mail it to me, a few parts are missing such as the lever for the chute control but he might have more parts kicking around, it has electric start, he turned the engine over with the pull cord but when I brought it home I could only turn it over a 1/4 of a turn when it stopped dead, when I get that sorted out I can check compression and go from there, it looks in decent shape but until I know what the engine is doing I won't know what the plan will be, don't mind putting some money into it if it's worth it, we shall see, if anyone has links or sources for parts diagrams and manuals etc I would appreciate it.*


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Thanjs for the picture. Take the spark plug out, squirt some oil in the hole, then try to pull the cord. The oil would be good for it. If it doesn't pull, try the electric start, go from there, maybe the starting cord or flywheel mechanism is locked.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

If it has been sitting a long time without the carb on it, the end of the intake is an inviting space for mice. You may want to look in the spark plug hole for signs of debris although a thorough inspection may not be possible without removing the head.


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## ~smokey~ (Feb 14, 2020)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Thanjs for the picture. Take the spark plug out, squirt some oil in the hole, then try to pull the cord. The oil would be good for it. If it doesn't pull, try the electric start, go from there, maybe the starting cord or flywheel mechanism is locked.


Not sure what the problem was but it's turning over now, I squirted some oil in the cylinder and got awesome results !


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## ~smokey~ (Feb 14, 2020)

deezlfan said:


> If it has been sitting a long time without the carb on it, the end of the intake is an inviting space for mice. You may want to look in the spark plug hole for signs of debris although a thorough inspection may not be possible without removing the head.


Things look good in the cylinder, he had the intake taped over so shouldn't be an issue.


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## ~smokey~ (Feb 14, 2020)

*As mentioned above I put some oil in the cylinder and got 64lbs compression with the pull starter and a whopping 160lbs with the magic button, pretty impressed, my neighbor Tom who gave it to me has a brand new carb in a box somewhere and with that I'm thinking this thing is a keeper !*


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

you may want to try cleaning that oil out of the cylinder and then re-doing the test. you are suppose to do the initial compression test with a dry cylinder/rings. you only add oil if you suspect the rings are shot from a low reading on the dry compression test. the oil usually seals up the area between the piston and cylinder leading to a higher reading.


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## ~smokey~ (Feb 14, 2020)

*This old MTD has seen it's fair share of abuse from previous owners, one endplate was bent in a good 2 inches and the tip of the auger was bent right back and loudly scraping when moved by hand, I notice these MTDs are not nearly as hefty as my old TORO 824, the sheetmetal is maybe half the thickness you can feel a difference in weight just moving the thing around*


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

your toro was most likely an older model. that may be an older machine but it is still a cheap one. i think they may have used the same shape bucket with only a few changes between then and what is now being sold. even look at the auger gear box. probably haven't changed its design in about 30 years by the looks of it. if you want the good quality machine you would have to look for the older ones with the steal chutes instead of the ones with plastic. 


https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/yardworks-243cc-2-stage-snowblower-26-in-0603753p.html


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

> *This old MTD has seen it's fair share of abuse from previous owners, one endplate was bent in a good 2 inches and the tip of the auger was bent right back and loudly scraping when moved by hand*


You are correct, and there is a way to solve this. Rather than use the OEM specified shoes, use aftermarket ones. I had a similar MTD and this made a huge difference. I believe the part number is 784-5038B and there are others like it out there. This stiffens the auger housing immensely that they also stick out proud such that if you run into something, it hit them first. However, you will need a plate to adapt the wide slot to the bolt hole. I made mine out of a worn out OEM skid shoe. I've uploaded some images so you can see what I mean. Hope this helps.


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