# Cracks in plastic housing



## blake616 (Nov 16, 2014)

While preparing my snowblower for winter yesterday, I noticed 3 cracks in the plastic housing below the actual chute. There are no holes in the housing, just cracks. The plastic seems to be intact at the cracks, but I can move the pieces with my hand. Undoubtedly this happened last winter when the temp was 0 and the plastic was brittle. Just wondering if someone has a suggestion on a type of epoxy/glue, etc that will withstand the low temps and moisture that accompany snow blowing. The snow blower is a Toro 826 LE. 

Many thanks....


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

You might be able to "weld" it, type in plastic welding, there are quite a few posts on it. That might hold it until you find a used chute.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

hello blake, welcome to *SBF!!* you'll have to find out what type of plastic is being used to properly repair it, that I don't know but you should be able to find the right epoxy at hope depot or some place similar. I would reinforce the cracked plastic with some sheet steel or aluminum


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

How old is the unit? Is it still under warranty?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I thought Toro had a lifetime warranty on some of that plastic.


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## blake616 (Nov 16, 2014)

William, My snowblower is an 826 LE and it is 8 years old. Not sure I understand your reply? Are the numbers after the model numbers some type of plastic code?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

blake616 said:


> While preparing my snowblower for winter yesterday, I noticed 3 cracks in the plastic housing below the actual chute. There are no holes in the housing, just cracks. The plastic seems to be intact at the cracks, but I can move the pieces with my hand. Undoubtedly this happened last winter when the temp was 0 and the plastic was brittle. Just wondering if someone has a suggestion on a type of epoxy/glue, etc that will withstand the low temps and moisture that accompany snow blowing. The snow blower is a Toro 826 LE.
> 
> Many thanks....


better get that fixed under warranty there.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

blake616 said:


> William, My snowblower is an 826 LE and it is 8 years old. Not sure I understand your reply? Are the numbers after the model numbers some type of plastic code?


no the letters after 826 have nothing to do with the type of plastic toro used. the type of plastic ( abs or pvc or some other type of plastic ) use is important because if you use and epoxy and plastic of the same type the bond will be stronger


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## blake616 (Nov 16, 2014)

Is there a lifetime warranty on this? If so, please advise who I contact to get this replaced.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

blake616 said:


> Is there a lifetime warranty on this? If so, please advise who I contact to get this replaced.


 call TORO HQ. about the plastic warranty.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

blake616 said:


> Is there a lifetime warranty on this? If so, please advise who I contact to get this replaced.


I think early Toro plastic had a 5 year warranty. However I'm not positive so contact Toro for assistance.

USA 1-888-384-9939
Canada 1-800-544-5364


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

I had the same happen on my toro. Tried jb weld and that didn't last. Too much snow banging on the area. Take a small drill and drill a small hole at each end of the crack. That will help it from spreading. Take a piece of paper and use it to make a template that covers your cracks. Then transfer that to a piece of sheet metal. After cutting the metal to size (dremel tool is great for this) bend it to fit over the area and pop rivit it in place. Stronger than new.


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## blake616 (Nov 16, 2014)

cdestuck said:


> I had the same happen on my toro. Tried jb weld and that didn't last. Too much snow banging on the area. Take a small drill and drill a small hole at each end of the crack. That will help it from spreading. Take a piece of paper and use it to make a template that covers your cracks. Then transfer that to a piece of sheet metal. After cutting the metal to size (dremel tool is great for this) bend it to fit over the area and pop rivit it in place. Stronger than new.


Thanks for the info. Did you put the sheet metal on top of the auger cover or inside? Just curious? I was thinking if I could put it in from the inside, it might last longer?


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

I did it on the outside. forget what gauge metal I used but it came out great and solid I think with the backing support the metal gave to it, it will do just as well from the outside.


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## blake616 (Nov 16, 2014)

Interesting conversation with Toro customer service today. Found out that the plastic warranty is only for 5 years... and I've had my snowblower for 8 years. The rep did tell me that the replacement part has a lifetime warranty and a different part number from the original. I inquired about the part number change and she indicated that the plastic was defective on the original part. I further pressed the rep and asked what was defective.. she said it cracks in cold weather!! No kidding!! I asked if there was any way to get the new part under warranty. She didn't budge. I will call back tomorrow and further press the issue.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Never hurts to try. Did they by chance give a price on the replacement part? Maybe tomorrow you will get lucky and get a different person to answer the phone that might be more prone to make an "exception".


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

Hey guys,

Since this seems to be the lower chute thread, any idea if Craftsman warrants its polymer parts beyond their standard 3 year warranty?

Mine is a 27" 2010 model and here is what my chute looks like after going through ice chunks mixed into the snowplow's bank:










Would hot glue hold up on this type of plastic? I have a feeling it would be too brittle but if anyone has an idea please share.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

TrueNorth said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Since this seems to be the lower chute thread, any idea if Craftsman warrants its polymer parts beyond their standard 3 year warranty?
> 
> ...


hot glue would not hold up to a good snow storm


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

I doubt very much they are warranty covered for cracks . Your photo did not show but one material that works very well is sheetmetal tape, it is very thin metal tape approx. 2" wide with sticking glue on one side.
Once installed when pressed with a hard small round shape end like a pen, one can see the small imprints from the chute's plastic and you should put 2 or 3 layers. Just ask a sheetmetal shop for the stuff it works very well and tough.


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

Normex said:


> I doubt very much they are warranty covered for cracks . Your photo did not show but one material that works very well is sheetmetal tape, it is very thin metal tape approx. 2" wide with sticking glue on one side.
> Once installed when pressed with a hard small round shape end like a pen, one can see the small imprints from the chute's plastic and you should put 2 or 3 layers. Just ask a sheetmetal shop for the stuff it works very well and tough.


Now that sounds like an excellent idea, thanks


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

TrueNorth said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Since this seems to be the lower chute thread, any idea if Craftsman warrants its polymer parts beyond their standard 3 year warranty?
> 
> ...


My guess is you are going to have to buy a new one. You could try something like plastic welding it and then pop rivets or screws for adding some sheet metal to it. Look up some plastic weld videos on youtube. Basically you take a soldering iron and melt the cracks back together.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

if all else fails get a new chute.


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

Shryp said:


> My guess is you are going to have to buy a new one. You could try something like plastic welding it and then pop rivets or screws for adding some sheet metal to it. Look up some plastic weld videos on youtube. Basically you take a soldering iron and melt the cracks back together.


That would make an interesting project along with Normex's suggestion to backup the weld it just might hold!


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

I did the weld! It took me about 30 minutes with a pointed tip soldering iron and I swear, it feels really tight. I'm squeezing the chute from all sides and its holding up.










If anyone is thinking of doing this, I highly suggest a pointed tip. I'd let it sink into the polymer about 3/4 of the way in, straight above the crack, and as I'd pull back up the melted plastic would pool right back into the hole. It was a sinch, a 5 year old could of done it 

I will probably order a new lower chute anyways, but Sears said it would take 5-7 business days and there's lots of snow to clear up here


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Keep us updated, i hope it holds. Did you melt any wire into it for reinforcement? It looks like it turned out pretty good.


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

Was thinking of doing the wire thing, but after doing the first weld and seeing how thick the plastic is, I just went ahead without it.

We get extreme winters up here so I'll definitely be back to comment on how far it gets me.

Thanks again, Shryp


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

At the risk of repeating I would stress to add the sheetmetal tape since the original plastic cracked and will crack again if not helped with either the tape or sheetmetal with pop rivets and washers on both sides.


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

Normex said:


> At the risk of repeating I would stress to add the sheetmetal tape since the original plastic cracked and will crack again if not helped with either the tape or sheetmetal with pop rivets and washers on both sides.


Yup, I'm hunting down the sheet metal tape tomorrow. I was also thinking of putting rubber washers to act as dampeners where the lower shoot connects to the auger housing. Think that might help with ice chucks or is it just overkill?


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> if all else fails get a new chute.


The lower chute in the picture looks similar to the one on my Husqvarna.
Truenorth, do you know if your Craftsman was made be Husqvarna? If it
was then the part is not very expensive. If it is a Husqvarna part, shop
around online because prices vary quite a bit for the same part number.


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

Zavie said:


> The lower chute in the picture looks similar to the one on my Husqvarna.
> Truenorth, do you know if your Craftsman was made be Husqvarna? If it
> was then the part is not very expensive. If it is a Husqvarna part, shop
> around online because prices vary quite a bit for the same part number.


That's a good question and I did search for that information till my eyeballs turned blue. According to this website, it can be Husqvarna, B&S or MTD. The Craftsman model number on it is 944.520661 and has a B&S 305cc motor. I wish I knew who built it for faster, cheaper parts


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

Just learned that Craftsman model numbers preceding the dot indicate the OEM. This website has a list of Sears OEMs and 944 is --> Husqvarna


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

TrueNorth said:


> Just learned that Craftsman model numbers preceding the dot indicate the OEM. This website has a list of Sears OEMs and 944 is --> Husqvarna


If it is Husqvarna then the part number for the chute base is: 532442438
This is common to most every Husqvarna machine for the last umpteen years.
I figured since it was one of the few plastic parts on my machine I would order one as a spare when I ordered a new belt for my single stage. I think it cost me like $13.00.


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

Thanks Zavie, that's the correct part alright!


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## ron3520 (Nov 22, 2014)

Have you heard of the crazy glue & baking soda method? Make sure the pieces are clean. put the piece together. Put some crazy glue on the crack. Immediately sprinkle some baking soda on the wet crazy glue. Blow off the excess. Turn it over and do the same to the other side. Go back to the first side and put another coat over the first coat. Do the same on the back side. You won't believe how fast and good the repair came out. Let me know if anyone tries this out for any repairs.


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## TrueNorth (Nov 19, 2014)

ron3520 said:


> Have you heard of the crazy glue & baking soda method? Make sure the pieces are clean. put the piece together. Put some crazy glue on the crack. Immediately sprinkle some baking soda on the wet crazy glue. Blow off the excess. Turn it over and do the same to the other side. Go back to the first side and put another coat over the first coat. Do the same on the back side. You won't believe how fast and good the repair came out. Let me know if anyone tries this out for any repairs.


I've never heard of this method, but my understanding of the plastic weld method is that you're disappearing the crack itself using the very material the component is made of. I can't see how any glue method can beat that. I have plowed through quite a bit of snow since doing this and it's holding strong


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