# HS 80 blower (impeller)



## Kevin Barry (Aug 30, 2020)

The weld on my impeller broke, how do you remove it?
replacements are no longer available, but i've been told
by the dealer, that a top quality shop can weld and balance
it. I have been unable to find any info on removal,


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Kevin Barry said:


> The weld on my impeller broke, how do you remove it?
> replacements are no longer available, but i've been told
> by the dealer, that a top quality shop can weld and balance
> it. I have been unable to find any info on removal,


You want to remove impeller? on an 80 you have to remove bucket first. not too difficult.

have to remove the chute adjuster from bucket end first. loosen 12mm nut and pull away. 
remove belt cover
remove 10 bolts that hold bucket into engine bed
pull bucket off
remove bolt from auger pulley wheel on backside of bucket
remove 4 bolts on each side of bucket that holds auger assembly
pull out whole assembly
remove impeller shear pin
then you can remove impeller from shaft

sounds more complicated than it is.


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## Kevin Barry (Aug 30, 2020)

Thank you, I'll give it a try. I kinda thought that's what I had to do.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Kevin Barry said:


> Thank you, I'll give it a try. I kinda thought that's what I had to do.


there is a pretty good youtube video on removing the bucket from a honda hs55 that is the same procedures.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

Kevin Barry said:


> Thank you, I'll give it a try. I kinda thought that's what I had to do.


A welding bead is not going to make it out of balance like crazy, especially if it is closed to the center. It is 13.5" diameter vs. 21.5" diameter on lawnmowers. Also, they rotate at different rpm. And, to be honest, I don't think they balanced it at the factory. Not for snowblowers.

I welded the tips of my impeller blades without balanced it and it is working just fine. Only time will tell.

I would help you weld it, but I don't want to give my address to strangers on the Internet, so you should take it to a shop. You want to do it that route, because honda parts are very expensive.


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## Kevin Barry (Aug 30, 2020)

is the bolt on the auger pulley regular thread? I'm having a lot of resistance, and I don't want to strip anything?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Kevin Barry said:


> is the bolt on the auger pulley regular thread? I'm having a lot of resistance, and I don't want to strip anything?


yes. is it the original bolt? sounds damaged if you are getting resistance. i use a thread chaser tool for damaged spark plug threads. not sure if they make that size chaser. think it is M8 x 1.25 pitch. maybe @tabora knows.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> think it is M8 x 1.25 pitch. maybe @tabora knows.


Yeah, it's part 95701-08022-00 BOLT, FLANGE (M8X22)


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## malisha1 (Nov 16, 2018)

Im working on hs70 with a welded impeller pulley.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

malisha1 said:


> Im working on hs70 with a welded impeller pulley.


Yeah, you've got a bigger problem... Looks like you cut off the shaft behind the pulley, so the shaft is going to be too short. I think you're going to need to weld more shaft on there and drill/tap it, or replace the shaft.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

seems like he is gonna have to re-tap and maybe use a longer bolt. i have a couple old 80's that the previous owner also welded the pulley. why do they do this? 

that shaft is hard metal. may need a machine shop to re-tap. not sure. on a HS70 that shaft is part of the auger gearbox assembly.


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## Kevin Barry (Aug 30, 2020)

I'm at wits end, I can not find a way to keep the impeller shaft from spinning
as I try to loosen the nut. 
Any suggestions, it's not like winter here in Maine is 
around the corner, I'd like to check over everything while it's apart.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Kevin Barry said:


> I'm at wits end, I can not find a way to keep the impeller shaft from spinning
> as I try to loosen the nut.
> Any suggestions, it's not like winter here in Maine is
> around the corner, I'd like to check over everything while it's apart.


Stick a piece of wood down through the chute so it jams the impeller while you loosen the bolt (after a liberal application of PB Blaster or equivalent). 
If the broken impeller weld doesn't allow for this, use a large pair of vise grips on the impeller shaft so that the handles lock up against the auger spiral.
Where are you located? I'm in Cape Elizabeth or Waterford or Vinalhaven, depending on the day...


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## malisha1 (Nov 16, 2018)

Finished my hs70


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## Kevin Barry (Aug 30, 2020)

Tabora, I tried the vise grips, (mine may be to small), I'll try to borrow a larger pair
tomorrow from a mechanic friend. I'm in Saco by the way.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Kevin Barry said:


> Tabora, I tried the vise grips, (mine may be to small), I'll try to borrow a larger pair
> tomorrow from a mechanic friend. I'm in Saco by the way.


You may want to hit the shaft with a torch as well to expand it a bit and break it free of the bolt. If you haven't freed it by next week and want some help, let me know... I'm away over the weekend at the island.

I have an HS80K1TAS chassis that I'm parting out this fall, so there's always a fall-back position, too.


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## Kevin Barry (Aug 30, 2020)

tabora said:


> You may want to hit the shaft with a torch as well to expand it a bit and break it free of the bolt. If you haven't freed it by next week and want some help, let me know... I'm away over the weekend at the island.
> 
> I have an HS80K1TAS chassis that I'm parting out this fall, so there's always a fall-back position, too.


thanks, I'll keep that in mind


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## Kevin Barry (Aug 30, 2020)

eureka I've done it! My mechanic lent me an impact wrench, hooked it to my compressor, and
pfft pfft and off. Just dropped the impeller off at the fabricator's, any suggestions for things to do
while I've got things apart, besides new belts?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

replace impeller bearing , I don't know about anyone else but I use lock-tite on the studs for the impeller bearing holder. have had them work there way off from vibration . inspect and repack side bearings. clean shafts . make sure impeller fans are true or straight. I usually find at least one that is bent.

with bucket off check tensioner arm , idler wheels , auger brake, springs, lube cables by pulling boots off at top and spraying cable lube in and work the cables.

check auger gearbox oil. should be right up to plug hole level.

use anti-seize grease on all the bucket bolts.


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## Kevin Barry (Aug 30, 2020)

where's the best place to shop for new belts?
same for impeller bearing?
And a big shoutout to all of you, "You folks are fantastic"..


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Kevin Barry said:


> where's the best place to shop for new belts?
> same for impeller bearing?
> And a big shoutout to all of you, "You folks are fantastic"..


get the part number from Honda website and then google for suppliers. I used to use boats.net but their prices are almost as much a Honda so looking for a new supplier. Not sure why prices everywhere have gone sky high.

Coronavirus? Tariffs ?


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> get the part number from Honda website and then google for suppliers. I used to use boats.net but their prices are almost as much a Honda so looking for a new supplier. Not sure why prices everywhere have gone sky high.
> 
> Coronavirus? Tariffs ?


Let us know if you find a new supplier. I understand prices for HSS models are reasonable, but older HS parts are getting too rich for my blood.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

might be worth running any part numbers you need through repair clinic. prices are hit and miss but i have found living in Canada shipping costs can sometimes almost be a complete rip off for some of the smallest parts and they have been cheapest. $13 shipping and they have broke my order up into 4 shipments since they are shipping parts as they get them. i can't believe they were willing to do that for a whole $13. the parts i have received so far seem like good quality parts.


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

Thanks for the tip. It seems like part prices are all over the map from different suppliers. 

Recently had to replace a Toro height adjuster. Found the best price including shipping was from my local OPE supplier ship it to me. I would pay more to walk up to the counter and buy it. Funny.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ya parts costs are all over the place. i usually always try shopping around to see where i can get the best deal if i can wait. it is part of why i will try to build an order and save on shipping and fees.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

aa335 said:


> Let us know if you find a new supplier. I understand prices for HSS models are reasonable, but older HS parts are getting too rich for my blood.


Has anyone here used bike bandit? their prices are pre-covid like boats used to be. I placed 2 orders with them and they said they are a minimum of 3 weeks out becuase their US warehouse was shut down due to CV-19.

I'm willing to wait . The right side drive axle with gears is $103 compared to $149 from boats. The scraper bar for the 828-928 is $42 compared to $54. shipping is free after $99.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

aa335 said:


> Let us know if you find a new supplier. I understand prices for HSS models are reasonable, but older HS parts are getting too rich for my blood.


yes most parts are not interchangeable. but yes, shears, some hardware, labels, grip handles and some other parts are very reasonable. grip handles for HS is about 10 bucks and only like 2 for HSS and they fit.


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