# Impeller mod worth it?



## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

I know this topic has been discussed before, however do you guys think the impeller mod is worth it? I have a new blower that’s only been used one season. It preformed fantastic. I put WD40, when it was getting clogged and for the most part it was perfect. I’m just fearing drilling into a new unit. Here is a pic of my gap. What do you guys think?










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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

You have to look at the closet, it looks like your picture is showing nearing the widest spot.

I'm in the not sure yet camp. However, it doesn't hurt anything, a few bucks and the time.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

It's worthwhile...

... searching the subject for the many prior opinions and threads on the subject. Just sayin'...

Looking at the ends of the blades on your impellor, one might suggest that some gravel has passed through and between the wall of the impeller barrel. If that's the case, the impeller mod will save you from gravel wedged in there.

I did the impeller mod with maybe 10mm or 3/8" max gap between the paddle and the barrel. It did help some, especially in soggy snow and slush. But I still end up clearing any serious slush from the chute after a while, especially if I forget to wax the inside of the chute regularly. Once we get past that fist soggy snow of the season, the impeller mod adds 10-15 feet to the throwing distance. Decide if that extra distance offers any value to you. I clear our 80 foot diameter cul de sac, and that extra throwing distance can mean not having to re-throw snow from the middle of the circle. If you don't have the same situation, maybe you could place your driveway snow strategically on a neighbor's front porch. Decide if that's a goal.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Yes worth every penny in my opinion. The machine will practically pump water afterwards. The throwing distance is also usually noticeably better. Got 1 machine that gained 8ft of throwing distance and won't clog on slush.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

I read in another thread here that a gap of 3/16 or less between the auger and the housing at the narrowest point does not benefit from the rubber upgrade. I cannot tell from your pic what the gap is, but it looks fairly small. You might read a bunch of the other threads (do a search) and learn more about this.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

yes


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I have a brand new Cub Cadet which I did the mod on, picked it up super cheap, and the gap was like 1/2 inch ...... This will be first season using it ... No gap at all now, should be a water pump with the waxed chute and bucket as well.

All my other blowers have hardly any gaps, and just the slick wax coating is all I need.All

Keeping rust free, and waxed surface on an already minimal gap impeller usually requires no further action.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Shuga said:


> do you guys think the impeller mod is worth it?


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

If you spilled slop on your floor would you clean it with a rake or a squeegee? 
In all seriousness, that gap of yours seems like a good candidate for the mod. The mod made a noticeable, pleasant improvement on my simplicity.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Short answer. "Yes"


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

I have done mod on several of my machines, just did the mod to the new Yardman last night and without it the snow did blow a decent 25ft. but there was over a 1/2" gap between the impeller and the housing. Some machines like the Craftsman I did make a slapping noise due to the bolt on lower plastic chute housing that goes on the housing. There is a lip at the top that the rubber blade hits and makes noise like playing cards in the spokes on a bicycle when we were kids. The mod works also to keep the chute opening from clogging up too.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Shuga said:


> I know this topic has been discussed before, however do you guys think the impeller mod is worth it? I have a new blower that’s only been used one season. It preformed fantastic. I put WD40, when it was getting clogged and for the most part it was perfect. I’m just fearing drilling into a new unit. Here is a pic of my gap. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wet sloppy snow its a must..you will run into wet sloppy snow sooner or later..its the wet sloppy snow that is heavy and kills your back while shoveling by hand..such a large gap as yours ..it is definitely worth the effort to install the paddles..I have a similar machine and installed paddles from old tires and self tapping screw..I used small c clamps to hold the paddles in place while I drilled.
I removed the chute and the plastic side housing before starting the project giving me a nice huge hole to work in as well as trim the plastic where it extends down.
I can take on the wet stuff...granted my throwing distance may be only twelve fifteen feet in the slop..but its enough to prevent clogging...there is a reason higher quality machines keep that gap tighter.
The large gap we have does keep the impeller off the housing in the event the impeller bearing goes south...while machines with a tighter gap will have the impeller tearing up the housing in the event of a bearing failure. 

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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

Another 'yes'. I want the least amount of gap possible between the impeller and the housing.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

all of my 2 stage machines have impellers with baler belt installed. 

Unclogging stick...what's that?


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## dagjohnsen56 (Dec 7, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> I have a brand new Cub Cadet which I did the mod on, picked it up super cheap, and the gap was like 1/2 inch ...... This will be first season using it ... No gap at all now, should be a water pump with the waxed chute and bucket as well.
> 
> All my other blowers have hardly any gaps, and just the slick wax coating is all I need.All
> 
> Keeping rust free, and waxed surface on an already minimal gap impeller usually requires no further action.


What kind of wax do you use and how do you apply it?

Dag


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

dagjohnsen56 said:


> What kind of wax do you use and how do you apply it?
> 
> Dag


i think he just uses any wax he has laying around.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yup ... I usually try and finish up what I have left from the cars, I also have a turtle wax in a spray bottle, also have Liquid Wrench M914, have even used some leftover furniture polish .... Also have some fluid film, but usually the other stuff. .... 

Key is to minimize rust in the off season, and properly prep and repaint...


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Yes. Absolutely.

Tabora posted a great link. Thats where i learned about it 6 years ago

And yes, tire sidewalls work fine, and mudflaps. Screwed in. Simple. Cheap. Incredible difference.


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## Boattail (Dec 12, 2021)

Shuga said:


> I know this topic has been discussed before, however do you guys think the impeller mod is worth it? I have a new blower that’s only been used one season. It preformed fantastic. I put WD40, when it was getting clogged and for the most part it was perfect. I’m just fearing drilling into a new unit. Here is a pic of my gap. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have brand new Honda 1332..new this year and I did the mod without even using it for first time yet. I did it to my old 2009 Craftsman and wow it made a difference. What are you worried about? It's not gonna hurt the integrity of the impeller.


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## tdipaul (Jul 11, 2015)

With a kit installed (and perhaps a slight increase of the engine rpm's) it's like a totally different machine
The manufacturers probably engineer a gap into it for a reason but I havent heard/seen of any issues after adding the kit.
Clearance for stones?
Not sure why you wouldn't want to eject them ASAP


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

Boattail said:


> I have brand new Honda 1332..new this year and I did the mod without even using it for first time yet. I did it to my old 2009 Craftsman and wow it made a difference. What are you worried about? It's not gonna hurt the integrity of the impeller.


That’s exactly what I’m worried about. Lol


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

It won’t hurt the integrity of the impeller? I mean I’m drilling into the medal 


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

Also which is the best kit to buy? 


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Shuga said:


> It won’t hurt the integrity of the impeller? I mean I’m drilling into the medal


That's like saying it impairs the integrity of the decking to put screws through it into the joists. Not a concern...


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Still amazes me that manufacturers don't address this issue of impeller tip ends, mods, clearances, etc..... Guess really it is probably all about cost and the bottom line ....


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

tabora said:


> That's like saying it impairs the integrity of the decking to put screws through it into the joists. Not a concern...


I guess it depends on who puts the screws in the deck 


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> Still amazes me that manufacturers don't address this issue of impeller tip ends, mods, clearances, etc..... Guess really it is probably all about cost and the bottom line ....


What other mods do people do?


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

So which kit on Amazon is the best?


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> Still amazes me that manufacturers don't address this issue of impeller tip ends, mods, clearances, etc..... Guess really it is probably all about cost and the bottom line ....


I am from Wisconsin and have a relative that retired from Ariens I will ask him if he has any thoughts.


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

So once again where are people buying the kits?


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

Ebay. Dozens to choose from. Variations on a theme. Pick one


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

Made my own out of baler belt and installed on a old 528 Canadiana for something to do and it made a new blower out it, throwing wet or dry snow twice the distance. Took a bit to wear in as there was a bit of smoke, Lol


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Shuga said:


> So once again where are people buying the kits?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I used an old car tire and self tapping screws.. cut the pieces to size ..I wanted a good mud flap...hard to find now days..the farm supply didn't have any belting so I just used an old tire.
Some people drill down through the chute..I took mine off as well as the plastic housing for it.. nice hole to work out of..used a c clamp to hold my cut piece where I wanted it then run the self tapping screws in.
I used a short block of wood to hold the impeller in place so I could push down on it .. after the first one the other two paddles went pretty quick 


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

Cstanis said:


> I am from Wisconsin and have a relative that retired from Ariens I will ask him if he has any thoughts.


Well the best explanation I got is that the gap is there to address rotational wobble in the impeller caused by the bearings wearing over time. Was he against a mod kit upgrade the answer is no. He did state that impeller revolutions and torque have a greater impact on moving snow. Newer more powerful machines should have less issues with clogging in his opinion. Again he worked for Ariens and this is what he believes. I hope this sheds some light.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

Gap is there for impellor bearing wear? 

Consider that the bearing on mine would have to completely disintegrate and wear through half of both the inner and outer races before there would be metal contact between the impellor and the barrel. I think the banging and rattling from the drive pulley side would catch my attention before that happened.

I suspect that it's there to account for manufacturing tolerances for the impellor and for the barrel itself. Folks assembling these in the factory can easily get the end of the shaft through the bearing and no risk of scratching any paint on the way in, at least with the 3/8"/10mm average gap I found on mine.

With my example set of just one for reference, I also see that the ID of the impellor barrel is larger than the flanged opening it slides over to connect at the auger housing. It's not a huge difference, basically the thickness of the metal used where the joint is double thick there. I looked hard at that lip and the wear that my first set of neoprene paddles made on the paint inside there, thinking that a 16ga stainless piece, rolled to fit inside, would easily be retained by that lip and by the four bolts that hold the base of the chute to the barrel. Voila! Replaceable never-rusts wear surface, less clearance to worry about filling with mod paddles, plus add a little weight to the front along the way.


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## Cstanis (Oct 19, 2021)

dr bob said:


> Gap is there for impellor bearing wear?
> 
> Consider that the bearing on mine would have to completely disintegrate and wear through half of both the inner and outer races before there would be metal contact between the impellor and the barrel. I think the banging and rattling from the drive pulley side would catch my attention before that happened.
> 
> ...


Just repeating what he told me. I may have missed something in the translation.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

All I know is my machines blow snow like an SOB after doing the auger mod and no clogging to boot.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Boattail said:


> I have brand new Honda 1332..new this year and I did the mod without even using it for first time yet. I did it to my old 2009 Craftsman and wow it made a difference. What are you worried about? It's not gonna hurt the integrity of the impeller.


it will probably void the warranty. dealers look for any excuse. doesnt matter if you know more than them.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Shuga said:


> Also which is the best kit to buy?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


IMO you may need someone to do it for you. I do them for 150 but I also service the augers.
I'll fly anywhere in the world in my private jet to work on Honda's. ( bought Apple stock in beginning like Forrest )


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> it will probably void the warranty.


But only on the impeller, and perhaps closely affiliated items like the bearing. The remainder of the machine's warranty would be unaffected (per Honda, at least in the US).


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Not sure if it's worth it.........took me 16 beers to complete one today and that is all I did all day......


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

orangputeh said:


> Not sure if it's worth it.........took me 16 beers to complete one today and that is all I did all day......


16 beers and $150 sounds like good day in the garage 


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Locally there's a guy advertising on Facebook impeller mods for $50, parts and labor. This is not worth my time.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Locally there's a guy advertising on Facebook impeller mods for $50, parts and labor. This is not worth my time.


I get 3-4 times that and it takes me about 1-2 hours tops. But I provide more than just installing an impeller kit. I also service the augers. That is clean out, clean auger gear box, apply anti sieze and weld up elongated shear pin holes and drill new holes. 
Getting so many requests that I am turning down work since i only work 2-3 hours a day .


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## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

Shuga said:


> I know this topic has been discussed before, however do you guys think the impeller mod is worth it? I have a new blower that’s only been used one season. It preformed fantastic. I put WD40, when it was getting clogged and for the most part it was perfect. I’m just fearing drilling into a new unit. Here is a pic of my gap. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How much are you going to gain? You said it performed fantastic. If it works that well why monkey with it.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

i did the impeller mod to my HRT Toro 521 cause it clogged on some very wet ice crusted snow years ago, it hasn't clogged up since the kit was installed. i have one on my powerthrow 824 also


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@orangputeh,

16 beers in a day would not allow me to work even 2 to 3 hours ......


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> @orangputeh,
> 
> 16 beers in a day would not allow me to work even 2 to 3 hours ......


one mans work is another mans play? lol


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> @orangputeh,
> 
> 16 beers in a day would not allow me to work even 2 to 3 hours ......


How about 12 beers? could we get an hour for that? LOL.


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## JFM88 (Dec 20, 2020)

Shovel said:


> I used an old car tire and self tapping screws.. cut the pieces to size ..I wanted a good mud flap...hard to find now days..the farm supply didn't have any belting so I just used an old tire.
> Some people drill down through the chute..I took mine off as well as the plastic housing for it.. nice hole to work out of..used a c clamp to hold my cut piece where I wanted it then run the self tapping screws in.
> I used a short block of wood to hold the impeller in place so I could push down on it .. after the first one the other two paddles went pretty quick
> 
> ...


Tried the kit route years ago and it worked, but was difficult to install. So your post shows the way. It's exactly how I've done it on mine and friends' machines with great results. Except my local tractor supply had some belting available, so I used that for the last four. It's much easier to use self tapping screws than to try to precisely drill holes for nuts & bolts for someone's kit. After it's screwed down, trim the belting to a slight contact fit with a razor knife and you'll be astounded at how well your machine performs.


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## jmmctighe (Nov 30, 2014)

Shuga said:


> I know this topic has been discussed before, however do you guys think the impeller mod is worth it? I have a new blower that’s only been used one season. It preformed fantastic. I put WD40, when it was getting clogged and for the most part it was perfect. I’m just fearing drilling into a new unit. Here is a pic of my gap. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, did it to my Troy Bilt 30". If you get heavy wet snow or a lot of slush at the end of your driveway from the plows and salters it is well worth it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

how many impeller kits can you make from 5 feet of conveyor belting from Tractor supply for $17? That is what I paid for that belt. 
probably 50 pieces at 3 pieces for each impeller. plus 6 screws? 

17 sets? $1 a set for the flaps?

screws? a couple bucks?

$3 for each impeller kit? being sold for $40-50-60 from sellers? 

at first I didnt like installing kits but now kinda like it. Have a great drill and drill bit and a method down to do it fast. did another today for a 828. Cant wait for next storm to wow the neighbors.
They all want one after I was hitting my front of house 50-60 feet away with my old 80.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> how many impeller kits can you make from 5 feet of conveyor belting from Tractor supply for $17?
> 17 sets? $1 a set for the flaps?


how wide is it? even assuming it is only 1ft wide that 5ft of conveyer belt would make about 90pc's @ 2"x4" or impeller mod for about 30 machines @ $0.57/set of 3 rubber pieces. the bolts vary in cost depending on what type you use but $3/impeller kit would be about right. the 1 thing i do like about the kits is the slotted holes to make minor adjustments easier but i don't like them enough to pay the $40+ for them. i just keep making my own. i mainly stick to mtd machines which are usually pretty easy to do the impeller mod on.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

crazzywolfie said:


> how wide is it?


4"x60"


https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/wcco-belting-baler-belting-2-ply-4-in-x-60-in


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

crazzywolfie said:


> don't like them enough to pay the $40+ for them


Me either, altho I can understand having to do so if they just dont have any other resource.
This pic (taken about a month ago) showing what once was a large piece of belting is near its end, still managed a few more sets. I was lucky enough to receive another piece 10 or 12" x 7 ft just last week in exchange for a generator carb cleaning.











JFM88 said:


> It's much easier to use self tapping screws than to try to precisely drill holes


I've not used self tapper's as yet, but they seem to work from what I see here on the forum.
I've been sticking with 1/4-20 nuts, bolts and washers, I have a few different sized jigs that I'll clamp in place to aid with drilling placement. No guess work involved, easy peasy.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

On the couple I did, I used a RR track pad, from when I worked there ... this is the pad the track sits on between the concrete ties. Very durable, and cuts with a saw or wheel.... and some stainless hardware ....  ... I even trimmed out for the chute bolts .....


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

sledman8002002 said:


> Me either, altho I can understand having to do so if they just dont have any other resource.
> This pic (taken about a month ago) showing what once was a large piece of belting is near its end, still managed a few more sets. I was lucky enough to receive another piece 10 or 12" x 7 ft just last week in exchange for a generator carb cleaning.


seems like some heavy duty stuff if you need a grinder to cut it. i use mudflap and just usually cut it with an a sharp knife. i usually cut things into long 2" strips since 2" wide is usually good enough for most machines. the length is the only difference depending on the impeller and you can cut the mudflap to length with scissors


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

This is what a Honda HSS kit looks like... All stainless steel.


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

crazzywolfie said:


> seems like some heavy duty stuff if you need a grinder to cut it


Heavy enough I suppose, just a hair shy of 1/4" thick and corded in the center. I can zip thru it lickity split using the mini grinder with a cut-off wheel. 
I want the tightest clearance I can get so I install with the rubber just kissing the housing in tightest area, they soon 'form fit' themselves in short order.


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

Does anyone weigh the rubber PCs or is that overthinking


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

groomerz said:


> Does anyone weigh the rubber PCs or is that overthinking


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

OK, I give up, what is a rubber PC?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

groomerz said:


> Does anyone weigh the rubber PCs or is that overthinking


that is over thinking it. with how slow the impeller rotated 1 piece being slightly different weight than another would not make much difference. this is generally why if a tire is out of balance you don't usually notice it at slower speeds but notice it more at higher speeds.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

For those who are on the fence about doing this mod, check this out. I have 28" Yardman blowers, one without the auger mod one with, I had some wet snow and powered the without mod blower put it up on high speed and plowed through the wet snow. Within about 30 ft. the chute opening clogged solid. I then took out the other machine and did the same thing, no clogging, no bogging and the chute area saw fully open and threw the snow 30ft in the air. For me the 2nd machine hit it out of the park. Now I have to go and do the other one now before I sell it. Do the mod, you won't regret it.


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## distrbd (Dec 8, 2021)

Auger1 said:


> For those who are on the fence about doing this mod, check this out. I have 28" Yardman blowers, one without the auger mod one with, *I had some wet snow* and powered the without mod blower put it up on high speed and *plowed through the wet snow*. Within about 30 ft. the chute opening clogged solid. I then took out the other machine and did the same thing, no clogging, no bogging and the chute area saw fully open and threw the snow 30ft in the air. For me the 2nd machine hit it out of the park. Now I have to go and do the other one now before I sell it. Do the mod, you won't regret it.


That's the bottom line, wet snow and how often we get it in a single winter, where I live (Ontario, live near a lake) we hardly get wet snow, the last time I remember receiving one was two winters ago and that was just once in many years, but I must admit it was a pain in the arse to plow or shovel it , I never forget , if I had an old snow blower with no warranty left , I would consider the impeller mod, it seems to me there's no down side to this upgrade, it does not effect the life of the blower like the bearings, the engine ETC (I'm just assuming this based on what I've read here and there). so why not do it unless the blower it new and still under warranty.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

tabora said:


> 4"x60"
> 
> 
> https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/wcco-belting-baler-belting-2-ply-4-in-x-60-in


Thanks Andy ( if that is ok? ) I just ordered 2 more rolls.

without impeller kits I would be SOL here in the Sierra.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I think the question about weighing and balancing the flaps is way overthinking it. Consider how well the snow stay so evenly distributed on the three impellor blades anyway in operation.

Maybe the original gap is there to allow slush to pass from a heavily-loaded paddle to one carrying less...  Naw, probably better to just let that heavy bite just sneak out the chute in anger.


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

Think of the impeller as a centrifugal pump. The tighter the clearance, the more efficient it is. I did the gap seal modification years ago on my 2002 MTD. It blew powder snow great, however it couldn't handle the wet heavy snow without clogging. After doing the modification, it was a completely different machine. Attached photos showing the amount of gap between the impeller, and the housing, that the seals cover. This modification is well worth the effort doing.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

man...I see alot of you guys using large hardware and steel bracing. 

I just use 2 self tapping screws. thats all 65 Ford uses on you tube. thats where I got the idea 6 years ago. much simpler and easier , but to each his own.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

harry398 said:


> man...I see alot of you guys using large hardware and steel bracing.


depends on the machine. i will sometimes use bolts if access to the impeller is good. i don't usually use steel plates butt i do usually like to use washers to help spread the pressure over the rubber. if the impeller is hard to get at i usually use self tapping screws and washers since i can just use my drill and a long 1/4" extension down the chute to drill through the impeller


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

Update I bought the kit and am trying to install, but I’m confused. Which way do I mount it. And second my shoot doesn’t appear to come off so how can I drill into it? 


















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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

What kind of snowblower do you have? Maybe of photo that shows the full machine would be helpful. I can't imagine any snowblower that you cannot remove the chute. It you really can't, then you will have to remove the auger and impeller to drill into the impeller fins. It will be a real PITA.


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

This is what I have https://images.thdstatic.com/produc...t-two-stage-snow-blowers-db7126pa-64_1000.jpg


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

groomerz said:


> Does anyone weigh the rubber PCs or is that overthinking
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Paralysis of analysis ! I make them the same size and go with it. They mount like picture # 1. Trim to fit.


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

Can I just JBweld this thing on?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Shuga said:


> And second my shoot doesn’t appear to come off so how can I drill into it?


That chute will come off with a couple of minutes work... Look at the exploded parts diagrams in your manual for disassembly clues.



https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjD_82znKj1AhXEjokEHTU_CnoQFnoECAgQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.m-and-d.com%2Fpdfs%2FPowerSmart%2FDB7126PA%2520Snow%2520Thrower.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3b8BU2O9Mwv88IfRvbeVMq


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

tabora said:


> That chute will come off with a couple of minutes work... Look at the exploded parts diagrams in your manual for disassembly clues.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjD_82znKj1AhXEjokEHTU_CnoQFnoECAgQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.m-and-d.com%2Fpdfs%2FPowerSmart%2FDB7126PA%2520Snow%2520Thrower.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3b8BU2O9Mwv88IfRvbeVMq


I don't see where it says it can be removed


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Shuga said:


> I don't see where it says it can be removed


Page 13 has the chute assembly instructions. It did not come from the factory with the chute installed. 
_*Step 2 – Chute assembly*_​*1. Install the discharge chute onto the chute flange on the auger housing. The chute only rests on the flange.*​*2. Slide the chute rod through the mounting hole on the left upper handle.*​_*3. Attach the chute rotation bar to the mount bracket onto the chute housing using two screws, washers and locknuts. Tighten fasteners securely.*_​Disconnect the upper Chute Direction Support Column bolts and all will become clear. Look at pages 30/31.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

Shuga said:


> Can I just JBweld this thing on?


Nope, gotta drill holes. I just use long drill bits from HF.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I did the mod using self-tapping "TEK" screws with washers. TEK screws have a hex head on them vs. a Phillips screwdriver head, and that makes them a candidate for a magnetic nut driver on your favorite power tool. Use the Phillips screws if you want, and a a wrap of electrical tape to hold the screw on the end of the power driver while you apply pressure. (see note at the bottom of this post...)

The top of the chute comes off the stationary section at the bottom as described. The bottom stationary section is typically bolted to the impeller barrel with four carriage or "elevator" bolts passing from inside the barrel, and nuts on the outside. Reach through the augers into that barrel to hold the bolts if you have to, but I can easily reach through the hole in the chute base to reach them from the outside. On mine, there's a separate deflector on one side of that opening on the inside, so be sure to catch that piece as you remove the upper bolts.

Once that bottom stationary section is removed, you can rotate the impeller so a paddle is accessible through the hole in the barrel. Position the new flap over the paddle, and use a standard Vise-Grip plier to clamp the flap to the paddle. The Vise-Grip will hold the flap in place, plus prevent the impeller from turning if you let it rest against the lower edge of the hole in the barrel. At this point, you can drive your favorite flavor of self-tapping screw through the flap into the paddle. If you want to drill and use bolts instead, it's easy access using a standard-length drill bit since the impeller paddle is sitting right there up in the barrel opening. Rinse, repeat, rinse, repeat, and you'll have all three paddles done on a few minutes.

Rotate the impeller a few times, and do any flap trimming necessary to maintain a small clearance all the way around the barrel. Don't assume the impeller is concentric in the barrel. While a zero/zero fit is the theoretical ideal, you really need to trim so that the flaps are just clear of the barrel all the way around. Drag from contact will place extra load on the engine and drive, plus it will quickly wear all the paint out of the barrel. 

Be sure to place that deflector plate back in the barrel if you took one out. Bolts get placed back in by reaching through the opening in the lower chute as you assemble, holding them up so the square section of the bolt indexes in the square hole in the barrel. Snug the bolts but don't tighten them to the point where you might risk cracking the bottom of the chute or distorting the barrel. About 15 lbs/ft net on your torque wrench is about right, if you are addicted to such things as I am.

Add some waterproof grease to the top of that lower chute section before you drop the upper section in place. It will help make chute rotation a lot easier in use.

Then reinstall that upper chute section, carefully managing the chute steering cables or linkages as you do so. Test the chute for proper rotation, and you should be good to go.

----

I used the described TEK screws, 1" long, for my installation, but swapped them for shorter (1/2") sheet metal screws after I saw how the extended screws would very easily tear gloves or finger-flesh when I work on the machine again. The TEK screws did a fabulous job drilling through the paddles, essentially giving me a new drill bit end with each installed screw, but leaving those drill-bit screw ends in there just didn't look like something I'd want to even causally risk later, perhaps while doing something as simple as replacing shear bolts. It was another strip-down and clamp effort, but potentially saved me some later grief. 

HTH!


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## Houptee (Feb 9, 2021)

Can you just use a lid from a 5 gallon bucket cut into the rectangle sized flaps or would it shatter from the cold? Or scraps of 1/2" thick Azek pvc trim board? Or scraps from those garage door trim gaskets that have pvc trim with a rubber flap bonded to it.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Not really, ... what you mention will shatter or is way to flimsy.


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## Houptee (Feb 9, 2021)

Also possibly scraps from certainteed cedar impressions vinyl siding which is thicker you could use the bottom edge that has the folded hook use that as the extended piece that almost touches the drum.


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## Shuga (Dec 18, 2021)

Update, 

Yesterday in NY we got a lot of snow, like a lot. Snow drifts that where taller then the blower, around 4foot. It worked amazing. Will it last? Probably not. Was it worth it? YES. Would I do it again? Hell Yeah! It shoots over my street onto my neighbors lawn, it’s insane. It went though the mounds of snow the plows created no issue. Honestly insane 

If you’re on the fence about this and come across this thread, do it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I bet impeller kits are saving the day out in the Northeast this weekend.

I used 1" self tapping screws also and then used a cutting wheel to cut off excess. Two years now and still holding fine. Did not use a backing plate. just washers.

DIY materials over kits that are RIDICULOUSLY priced like fast food.

No, JB weld will not work..............

On a Honda I remover the whole auger/impeller assembly. Only takes a couple minutes on hydrostatic models. I tried the way you tubers did it thru the chute. somewhat of a PIA. With the augers out you can also clean up the shafst and gearbox , anti grease up everything, weld up elongated shear pin holes and redrill, inspect repack or replace side auger bearings and generally have a good time before popping a brewski.

to each his own. do it right or do it twice grasshoppers.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> I bet impeller kits are saving the day out in the Northeast this weekend.


At least in southern Maine, the snow was packed but dry with sub-freezing temps. No impeller kit required. 60+ feet stream.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

tabora said:


> At least in southern Maine, the snow was packed but dry with sub-freezing temps. No impeller kit required. 60+ feet stream.


Same here all dry fluffy snow, you have to wait for the slush to see how it will work. 
I don't get a 60' stream but I don't need it to throw that far either.


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