# Old craftsman - auger chain seems routed wrong



## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

*Old craftsman 3.5/20 Single Stage Build*

Can anyone help me out with this. I just bought an old Craftsman snow blower on craigslist. I went through everything and one of the issues I found is the chain is routed over top the idler sprocket and it's eating into the "hood?". I 'm guessing the chain was replaced and the original person who tried to fix it made it too long and routed it wrong. Seems like the chain should be routed under the idler sprocket and be much shorter.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> Can anyone help me out with this. I just bought an old Craftsman snow blower on craigslist. I went through everything and one of the issues I found is the chain is routed over top the idler sprocket and it's eating into the "hood?". I 'm guessing the chain was replaced and the original person who tried to fix it made it too long and routed it wrong. Seems like the chain should be routed under the idler sprocket and be much shorter.


I have that same blower! See "Lil Red" in my signature. 

you're correct, the chain should be routed below the tension sprocket.


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

classiccat said:


> I have that same blower! See "Lil Red" in my signature.
> 
> you're correct, the chain should be routed below the tension sprocket.


Thank you. I noticed that like yours, mine doesn't throw the snow very far either. I tried it for the first time today and it cleared about 2" from my driveway. Still need to dial in the carb. The thing took about 50+ pulls to get it started and the revs seem low to me. Also leaks gas out the carb so I need to put on a fuel shutoff.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> Thank you. I noticed that like yours, mine doesn't throw the snow very far either. I tried it for the first time today and it cleared about 2" from my driveway. Still need to dial in the carb. The thing took about 50+ pulls to get it started and the revs seem low to me. Also leaks gas out the carb so I need to put on a fuel shutoff.


You're welcome!

Mine threw pretty well for it's size/power/age with the old Auger. My new auger is only turning at 1/2-speed ...at the moment ...there's some "throwagra" in the mail 

I recommend getting a tachometer to dial-in that engine. Sirometer or a tiny-tach work great. 3500 RPMs is where I run mine; 3600 is the maximum.

If gas is leaking out of the carb, it's time for a rebuild. Rebuild kits are cheap and it's very easy to do. Your float could be flooded (filled with fuel)...and/or set at the incorrect height... and/or the needle isn't seating. 

Definitely add a fuel cut-off...along with an inline fuel filter...along with a new fuel line.

Difficulty starting could be a number of things. Rebuild the carb & put in a new J8C plug (assuming this is an H35) and we'll go from there!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Oh...and before you rebuild the carb...be sure to take pictures/notes of the linkage & spring settings.


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

classiccat said:


> Oh...and before you rebuild the carb...be sure to take pictures/notes of the linkage & spring settings.


There were two master links in the chain so I removed one and the length is good.

Couple more questions for you if I may...

Idler Sprocket- mine is very loose. It is not really putting any tension on the chain and I have it all the way down. There is a lot of side-to-side play too. Is there supposed to be a washer between the sprocket and hood? There is no bearing on mine, it just rides loosely on the shaft. I saw you replaced yours with a new unit. Did that happen to be the 13 tooth roller bearing sprocket from TSC for $25?

Chain - What size?

Oil - do I just fill it to the top of the fill plug?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> There were two master links in the chain so I removed one and the length is good.
> 
> Couple more questions for you if I may...
> 
> ...


My idler sprocket has a bushing on the inside. I’ll take it apart when I get home from work and snap some pics. I had to add 2 washers between the sprocket & hood to get the right spacing.

My idler sprocket is original. What I’m about to change out is the auger drive sprocket (going from 15 to 25 teeth) to account for the larger sprocket on the auger assembly (aka “throwagra”).

Does yours have a dipstick / filler tube? When I found mine on the curb, it was broken off. These engines run very poor if your crankcase isn’t sealed. The H35 takes about 21 oz of oil.


Here's a good shot of the fill level inside the crank case (Note: this is what a governor *should not* look like)


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

classiccat said:


> My idler sprocket has a bushing on the inside. I’ll take it apart when I get home from work and snap some pics. I had to add 2 washers between the sprocket & hood to get the right spacing.






Hope that helps!


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

Looks the same as mine, I just need to get the washers. Thank you.

Are you using the original guide wheels on the bottom front of the blower or did you replace them with anything?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> Looks the same as mine, I just need to get the washers. Thank you.
> 
> Are you using the original guide wheels on the bottom front of the blower or did you replace them with anything?


The one on the right-side is completely original. The left-side I had to fab the hardware out of 3/8" Stainless nylock nut / bolt combo with a stainless steel tubing spacer for the gauge wheel to ride-on; It's not pretty but it works!


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

I ordered a new carb for $17 shipped on Amazon. Hoping it will fix the hard starting. I think the bowl gasket and needle/seat was bad. A rebuild kit wasn't much cheaper than a whole new carb.


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

I ordered some MTD steel skids to replace the stupid "wheels" on the front. One of the wheels came off while I was snow-blowing tonight (probably needed a nylock nut because the regular nut vibrated off). One wheel is all seized up and the other one is a makeshift wheel.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I've been on the fence about keeping the gage wheels since you don't have as much flexibility for height and they tend to sink-in further on ground that isn't completely frozen...On the otherhand, if you can get them to roll correctly, they seem to last a long time! I can grab some pics of my fugly wheels if you're interested .

If the MTD skids don't work out for ya (_our machines have a smaller skid hole spacing than standard skids_), guys have been fabricating skids out of tough plastic materials...even plastic cutting boards.


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

Installed the new carb. Started on the second pull...from then on, it was hard to start again. Go figure. Seems to run well once it gets going. There is no primer on the new carb. What's up with that?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> Installed the new carb. Started on the second pull...from then on, it was hard to start again. Go figure. Seems to run well once it gets going. There is no primer on the new carb. What's up with that?


 Bummer oldcman! 

bunch of questions: 


 Was the engine warm when you tried to restart? If so, did you try to restart when the engine was cool again? 

 Did you check for spark when it wouldn't start? 

 Are you using fresh fuel?

 Install a new plug? 

 Install new fuel line? 

 Install a fuel filter? 
 Trying to start without a primer also puts you at a disadvantage. You may need a squirt of fuel in the carb throat; I’ve never had a Tecumseh carb without a primer so can’t really help you there (_i.e. how much fuel to squirt in_). Assuming that your old carb has a good bowl seal, you could use it to gauge how much fuel is produced with 3-5 primer pushes.

Good luck!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum 

The bolts the gauge wheels run on can be had at Fastenal part # 1126346
I needed to replace the ones on my craftsman. Need to make sure you have ones with 1/2" hole.

You were lucky and bumped into someone with the same machine. Might be a good idea to add some info to your signature or post a model/serial number when you post a question so someone else might be able to help you out.


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

classiccat said:


> Bummer oldcman!
> 
> bunch of questions:
> 
> ...





Kiss4aFrog said:


> Welcome to the forum
> 
> The bolts the gauge wheels run on can be had at Fastenal part # 1126346
> I needed to replace the ones on my craftsman. Need to make sure you have ones with 1/2" hole.
> ...


 Thank you. I am installing new style skids instead of the wheels. There must be a reason why all new snow blowers have skids and not wheels, right?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

oldcman said:


> Thank you. I am installing new style skids instead of the wheels. There must be a reason why all new snow blowers have skids and not wheels, right?


Yep. the skids are stamped steel and cheaper to make.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I asked about the fuel line/filter because it's possible that some old crud got in and blocked-up your new carb.

Definitely install a new fuel line/filter when you’re changing out the fuel line; ¼” ID is correct.

Also, throw in a new spark plug; my old H35 loves the champion J8C or equivalent. If I am going to clean a plug, I only use seafoam & a torch; I avoid using abrasives/wire for fear that something will remain & drop into my cylinder.

Being that it was running, I doubt that it’s an ignition problem but it wouldn’t hurt to have an adjustable gap spark tester in case the problem is intermittent. 1.) Turn-off the fuel & drain the carb (still keep the plug in to prevent a fuel cloud from forming from any residual fuel). 2.) set the tester to "SE" for small engine. 3.) connect the plug wire to the tester 4.) clamp the tester to the engine block. 5.) Pull the recoil watching for a strong blue spark.

I kind of like the old-school gage wheels (aka pizza cutters).


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

I put on the new fuel line today. The engine seemed to start easier and run much better at idle.

I hooked up my tach and after playing with the mixture screws, I was getting
Idle: 750-800 rpm
Max: 2250-2300 rpm

It sure sounds a lot faster than the low-mid 2000's but I believe my setting on the tach is correct because the idle speed is about right.

I thought I read that these engines run about 3500 rpm?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Great News!!!!!

I dont know if ive ever gotten a tecumseh to idle that low; mine normally idle in the 1800-2200 range...your tach might be a factor of 2 off although I could be wrong. If thats the case your machine is over revving. Adjust rpms by adjusting the governor spring tension screw rig hr above the throttle lever.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

...and you are correct...target max rpm is around 3500.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

oldcman said:


> I put on the new fuel line today. The engine seemed to start easier and run much better at idle.
> 
> I hooked up my tach and after playing with the mixture screws, I was getting
> Idle: 750-800 rpm
> ...


 Yep 3600 rpm's You need to verify the governor linkage is set. Also WOT on the carb. If all good then adjust the pull spring/linkage.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Great News!!!!!
> 
> I dont know if ive ever gotten a tecumseh to idle that low; mine normally idle in the 1800-2200 range...your tach might be a factor of 2 off although I could be wrong. If thats the case your machine is over revving. Adjust rpms by adjusting the governor spring tension screw rig hr above the throttle lever.


 The TECs that had a "bump" on the exhaust cam for compression release would never idle low or smooth. There were some that had a release that was a fly weight on the cam. For my mini bikes I would grind off the lump. Would idle like a car and way better power.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

If it's a digital tach you can play with the buttons and get it to read proper RPM so you really know where you're at.


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

Pathfinder13 said:


> If it's a digital tach you can play with the buttons and get it to read proper RPM so you really know where you're at.


So I could double the reading or halve it.

Doubling would make it idling about 1500rpm and maxing out at 4,500rpm. Is there any way to know for sure what the firing sequence is?

Sounds much slower than 1500 rpm at idle but maybe not.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

Supposed to be about 1900 idle approx andthen 3600 max. , read the directions on the tach paperwork, if you don't have it play with it until you end up in that ballpark with the tach.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Its firing on every revolution of the flywheel/crankshaft; there is a wasted spark (exhaust stroke) with this ignition.


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

I adjusted the governor linkage. The screw was tight so that wasn't the problem. I will fire up the blower tomorrow and see what the tach says.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I wouldnt mess with that governor too much until you are comfortable with what your tach is telling you. There are a few vid links in my thread...it was running around 3300; ive since adjusted to 3500.

Since you did drop a new carb on, the governor arm probably needs to be recalibrated. Let us know if you need assistance with that procedure.

Unfortunately this is an area that if you mess up, the connecting rod will poke through the block to tell you so


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

I set my tach for 1 spark per revolution. After adjusting the governor linkage, the governor is holding the engine steady at exactly 3,000rpm. Of course I could increase it but maybe this smaller hp engine is supposed to be maxed out at 3000 instead of 3500? I have searched for rpm setting for this specific model but have been unable to come up with anything. The manual says to see microfiche #30 but a search for that turns up nothing.

What is a good idle setting? I guess it doesn't really matter but I can turn the screw down pretty much as low as I want and it seems good. I set it at 1500.

Good thing I didn't blow the engine because I was running it above 4,000 for quite a few times of snow blowing.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> I set my tach for 1 spark per revolution. After adjusting the governor linkage, the governor is holding the engine steady at exactly 3,000rpm. Of course I could increase it but maybe this smaller hp engine is supposed to be maxed out at 3,500. I have searched for rpm setting for this specific model but have been unable to come up with anything. The manual says to see microfiche #30 but a search for that turns up nothing.
> 
> What is a good idle setting? I guess it doesn't really matter but I can turn the screw down pretty much as low as I want and it seems good.


It's really coming together oldcman!

This machine idles around 2000...it bounces around quite a bit for reasons that scrappy describes. if you set it too low, it will stall.

max RPM is 3600 but I like to set around 3500 to account for any fluctuations.

for the high RPM, you adjust this with spring tension. There's a small screw on the throttle lever that fine-tunes the tension. If that screw is in all the way and you're only at 3-grand, then you'll need to go up 1 hole on the governor arm and back-off the fine-tune screw to ~ 1/2way and try again. 

If you go out too far with the fine adjustment screw, and it's overrevving, then you go down a hole (less spring tension). I think I eventually set at 4-holes down but I'd have to check when I get home.

I grabbed this picture before I buttoned-up my H35. you can see how all of the internal & external components work together:


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

I saw that pic in your other thread, thank you. I moved the spring up one hole and tightened the screw a bit. Sitting right at 3540rpm now! I picked up some new stainless steel screws for the belt cover that I was missing. Now the only thing left is to put the skids on.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Bam! It sounds like you've got that bad boy dialed-in!!!!! Great Job!

Mine was found curbside with the cover missing...I have to fab something to keep my little piggies safe


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

It would be neat to have a clear cover to monitor what is going on with the belts and chains while operating the blower.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> It would be neat to have a clear cover to monitor what is going on with the belts and chains while operating the blower.


I have sheet metal out the wazooo however was thinking of making a hinged access panel...now a hinged lexan panel would be kinda cool


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

I just saw another snow blower on craigslist - looks familiar...


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> I just saw another snow blower on craigslist - looks familiar...


 Yeah, I'd say that looks familiar! 

How much are/were they asking?


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

classiccat said:


> Yeah, I'd say that looks familiar!
> 
> How much are/were they asking?


$75 including a pusher snow shovel contraption. Doesn't say if it runs or not.

I notice yours and this one have an oil filler tube that extends to the top but mine does not. Is there a dipstick there also? I filled mine to the top of the hole and oil was coming out of the breather but that could have been partially because the rpms were set way to high.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> $75 including a pusher snow shovel contraption. Doesn't say if it runs or not.
> 
> I notice yours and this one have an oil filler tube that extends to the top but mine does not. Is there a dipstick there also? I filled mine to the top of the hole and oil was coming out of the breather but that could have been partially because the rpms were set way to high.


That's not a terrible price with the snow pusher...if it's the thing that I'm thinking of; my buddy from Wisconsin prides himself in only using one and never owned a blower. I want to buy a house next to his and see if I can pile my snow on THE OTHER SIDE of his driveway (_using my Toro of course_) 

When I found the machine, only 1/2 of a filler tube was on the engine...plugged with a wire nut . I have the operators manual for this machine and it says 21oz of oil (and in agreement with this link)...which correlates pretty well with the fill line here: 









If your fill hole is at the top of the sump cover and your engine is identical to mine, then it sounds like you're overfilling by 2x. are you able to read your engine model & serial number?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

You may have the lower-fill sump cover. H35 specs.


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

My new skid shoes were sitting in the garage waiting for me to get time to drill holes and install them. This morning, I discovered that they BOLT ON to the existing holes, no drilling required - awesome!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

It's nice to catch a break every once and awhile isnt it???


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

We got 14" yesterday. It did a great job on my small driveway but the engine started running very badly about half way through. I found out later that all the linkages had completely iced up - probably because the snow was taller than the top of the chute.

The auger belt seemed to be slipping so adjusted the idler pulley tighter. I would like to get a replacement cable because I think I stretched out the spring but it is no longer available. Funny the drive cable is still available though. Bummer. Suppose I could get a different cable that is too long and adjust the length by making a circle/coil and using a cable clamp.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Yeow! That's a ton of snow for that little chugger!!!! True test!

My cables are adjustable. On mine, there's a jam nut that you loosen & you can turn the a threaded portion for tension adjustment. Do you also have a threaded section above the spring?


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## oldcman (Jan 5, 2015)

classiccat said:


> Yeow! That's a ton of snow for that little chugger!!!! True test!
> 
> My cables are adjustable. On mine, there's a jam nut that you loosen & you can turn the a threaded portion for tension adjustment. Do you also have a threaded section above the spring?


I do not have a jam nut. I saw cables like that on ebay but they were 10" longer than I need. I think mine is about 31" long. Are both of your cables adjustable? Both of mine are fixed.

I went out to test it out after adjusting the idler and the auger works great now!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

oldcman said:


> I do not have a jam nut. I saw cables like that on ebay but they were 10" longer than I need. I think mine is about 31" long. Are both of your cables adjustable? Both of mine are fixed.
> 
> I went out to test it out after adjusting the idler and the auger works great now!



Mine were replaced, I replaced the auger and the traction had a price tag on it when I found it.

David and Goliath :


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