# Model 247.887801



## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

I just bought this at an estate sale and it looks to be brand new. First, can I tell the manufacture date from the serial number? Sears site says I have to go to a store and their chat is always offline. Second, it only ran on full choke and smoked and ran rough but I took a chance as I figured it was from lack of use. I changed gas and cleaned the carb bowl which was pretty gunky and a rusty, probably from lack of use. It runs great now but still needs to be at about 1/2 choke. I need advice. 1: just leave it and run it at 1/2 choke or 2: buy a carb. New OEM's are about $50-$60 and aftermarkets are about $20. I suspect some of the gunk got thru the carb and a new aftermarket carb seems easier than cleaning and a kit. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you, Mark
It's a 21 inch 179cc 4 cycle OHV
ser # 1I011B60479 The 0 after the I may be the letter o?
Model # 247.887801


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

go aftermarket


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Welcome to SBF Hawg. According to the partstree website, your Craftsman is a 2011 model. Below are links to an ebay replacement carb and the MTD engine service manual.


ebay replacement carb-


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-for-MTD-Cub-Cadet-Troy-Bilt-951-12704B-951-14028A-Stens-520-860-265-J/223605420629?hash=item340febf255:g:feEAAOSwM81dQDAm

MTD engine manual-
 


http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_04015_01_Small_bore_horizontal.pdf


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

If you want the knowledge/experience, rebuilding or simply cleaning the old carb is not that hard and takes little time. There are a dozen or more videos on youtube of how to do it, in a "quick & dirty" cleaning you don't even have to take it off the engine, takes five minutes, and might be all it needs. Best of all, it's free!

Otherwise, just get the cheap one off eBay and you're done.


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## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

I’ve done many, $15- $20 for an aftermarket is easier. If it doesn’t come off it’s just a spray job and that’s not going to get gunk out of the inside.


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## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

Thank you Grunt.


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

Hawg said:


> I just bought this at an estate sale and it looks to be brand new. First, can I tell the manufacture date from the serial number? Sears site says I have to go to a store and their chat is always offline. Second, it only ran on full choke and smoked and ran rough but I took a chance as I figured it was from lack of use. I changed gas and cleaned the carb bowl which was pretty gunky and a rusty, probably from lack of use. It runs great now but still needs to be at about 1/2 choke. I need advice. 1: just leave it and run it at 1/2 choke or 2: buy a carb. New OEM's are about $50-$60 and aftermarkets are about $20. I suspect some of the gunk got thru the carb and a new aftermarket carb seems easier than cleaning and a kit. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you, Mark
> It's a 21 inch 179cc 4 cycle OHV
> ser # 1I011B60479 The 0 after the I may be the letter o?
> Model # 247.887801


Welcome to forum, Hawg. Add some Seafoam to your full tank and run it for 15 - 20 minutes. It may help, good stuff!


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## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

I tried that yesterday with Star Tron. I think $20 is pretty cheap to be done once and for all. I was surprised that Parts Tree had this as a 2011 manufacture date. Thing looks brand new. That’s probably why the carb bowl was this dirty, it sat too long without use. I should try combustion cleaner but these carbs are so cheap you just don’t know if you dissolve something.


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## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

Now I,m stumped! New carb, new plug, new gas, new gas line, new gas filter and it still only runs on almost full choke just like before. All my effort got zero results. Any ideas?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Running with the choke closed most of the way indicates a VERY LEAN mixture to the engine.

Do you have a good flow of fuel through the shut off valve on the tank?


Are you sure the intake manifold isn't cracked or the intake or carb gaskets aren't leaking air?
Spraying carb cleaner around the mating surfaces with the motor running and hearing a change in engine tempo will show where an air leak is.


How is the engine compression?


Remember also, although rare, a new carb doesn't necessarily mean a GOOD carb.


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## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

Spraying the engine is a job for today if this monsoon were getting ends. Flow is great.

So far: I completely disassembled the carb and cleaned with top engine cleaner (the good stuff), then with carb cleaner and put it back together. The results were exactly the same. Then I bought a new carb and put it on to exactly the same results. Cleaning and 2 carbs doing exact same thing seems to eliminate the carb and send me back to checking for sucking air somewhere. I hate the idea of spraying ether/starting fluid around hot engines but I'll try it. It's a monsoon here today so I really haven't gone past loosening the gas cap, which didn't help. I suspect someone has been into this before me as the gas line was the good automotive kind instead of the cheap plastic ones that I'm sure must come with them. That line between the intake and the carb doesn't need to be clamp tight does it? I'm on my way to get a shutoff as I'm tired of draining the tank each time. I'll get extra gas line long enough to be able to hold up the cover with the tank to see if the low spot in the line are causing any problems, slight chance but I'll check. Primer line need clamps? Some of the gaskets on the original carb, stiffer and thicker with almost a slight bit of rubber around the openings which I don't think was sealer, seemed better quality than the new ones so I was a little confused if both were needed but ether should show a leak of any kind. after that I'm going to go throw it through the window of the guy that sold it to me. He told me it was 2, maybe 3 years old and he knew the guy that he got it from(He buys out estates and then resells) and partstree.com shows it as a 2011.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I would use carb spray or WD-40 to test for intake leaks.
The primer line does not need a clamp.
I doubt the low spot in the fuel line is causing your issue.
A fuel shut off is a GOOD idea on any gas engine machines.
If there is gasket sealer on the gaskets, make sure none of it is blocking any small holes which are air bleed or pulse holes needed for correct fuel metering.


The age discrepancy wouldn't bother me as long as the machine was maintained and probably had minimal use.


Good luck.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Have you checked inside the tank for any obstructions of any kind?


Have you pulled the line itself to make sure it is free flowing? btw, good idea as mentioned, to put in an in-line shut off on any gas engine when you drain the tank.



I like the ether test as well.


BTW, for future info., I always put Stable and Seafoam into all my 5 gallon cans when I fill them .... I do however cut the Seafoam to 1/2 the recommended, 1/2 oz. per gallon, instead of the recommended 1 oz. per gallon, as I also add the Stable.


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## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

Grunt, I agree on the age and maintenance but he told me he used it once last spring and didn't need the choke on. I seriously can't believe that by the amount of gunk in the bowl. Gaskets came with the carb and are new with nothing on them. The breather hose from the intake to the carb is somewhat loose, that doesn't need to be clamped, right? I also think he knows it's been worked on before. I understand buyer beware but lying puts a little more suspicion to it. I have to admit it runs great at 3/4 choke.


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## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

I was told by a friend he puts a little motor oil on gaskets to help seal them. Is that right? Seems to the oil, being heat resistant would just stay slippery and not seal. Your thoughts?


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

Hawg said:


> I was told by a friend he puts a little motor oil on gaskets to help seal them. Is that right? Seems to the oil, being heat resistant would just stay slippery and not seal. Your thoughts?


Do't put oil on the gaskets. They are made to use dry. It gets soggy with oil, it may tear or blow out. Where on earth did he hear this?


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

What about the tar type tube, Form-a-gasket ? I have had good luck with that spread on a gasket.


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## Hawg (Dec 2, 2015)

I bought a sheet of fiber gasket material. Now I need to find my exacto knife. I want this to be over. The original gaskets were much thicker than the cheap paper ones that came with the carb. Form a Gasket is what started this post. Most agree to leave them dry.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

RIT333 said:


> What about the tar type tube, Form-a-gasket ? I have had good luck with that spread on a gasket.


All you will do is make a mess to clean up next time the carb needs to come off. No need to use anything, install dry.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

Hawg said:


> I bought a sheet of fiber gasket material. Now I need to find my exacto knife. I want this to be over. The original gaskets were much thicker than the cheap paper ones that came with the carb. Form a Gasket is what started this post. Most agree to leave them dry.


I hand cut gaskets all the time. Get a gasket punch set at Harbor Freight And an exacto, as you stated.


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