# My Torque Wrench Failed and I Cracked the Block with the Oil Fill Tube



## spacemanspiff (Dec 13, 2020)

I've got a Ariens Deluxe 28 / 921046, just under three years old, well maintained. Was changing the oil today to get ready for the season and my torque wrench failed and I ended over tightening the oil drain tube and cracked the block.

From reading some other posts I understand that this could be welded, if I could find someone to do it. Otherwise, am I looking at a new block or new engine? Anyone gone through this recently?

Thanks!


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

spacemanspiff said:


> I've got a Ariens Deluxe 28 / 921046, just under three years old, well maintained. Was changing the oil today to get ready for the season and my torque wrench failed and I ended over tightening the oil drain tube and cracked the block.
> 
> From reading some other posts I understand that this could be welded, if I could find someone to do it. Otherwise, am I looking at a new block or new engine? Anyone gone through this recently?
> 
> Thanks!


I TIG'd a block once but it was 15+ years ago. I'm not a pro, so I was shocked that it worked so well. These days there are speciality rods better suited for this problem than what I used with a TIG. A good welding shop can do it easily; the crankcase is easier than the head. If you plan on doing it yourself do some research on the filler material. Go slow, clean, clean, clean, and most importantly provide stress relief (lots of hammer taps). Sometimes drilling a stop hole makes sense, and I have seen guys do this, but not everyone does. I'm sure there are videos on this.

When done right, or in my case—with luck—it can last for the life of the machine. Mine was going strong when I sold it 10 years later.

Best of luck.


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

You could plug the hole if its an emergency.Best to bring it to a welding shop though


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

welcome to the SBF

sadly if you can get it alloy welded you buying a new block or engine.


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## spacemanspiff (Dec 13, 2020)

captchas said:


> welcome to the SBF
> 
> sadly if you can get it alloy welded you buying a new block or engine.


Any recommendations on what/where to get a new block or engine?

And thank you, long time listener, first time caller. 


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

spacemanspiff said:


> Any recommendations on what/where to get a new block or engine?
> 
> And thank you, long time listener, first time caller.
> 
> ...


seems repairable to me. any pics?


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## spacemanspiff (Dec 13, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> seems repairable to me. any pics?


Too dark now. 

But I saw this earlier trying to research it, and it’s almost exactly how mine looks. 










By the way, I have no welding skills. 


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Usually there are 2 drain areas. If that is the case, I would pull the engine off and have a welder just weld that area up solid ... Done

Never, ever, extreme torque down any thing into aluminum, common sense should rule here.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

spacemanspiff said:


> Too dark now.
> 
> But I saw this earlier trying to research it, and it’s almost exactly how mine looks.
> 
> ...


oops. take back what I said. not sure if repairable. never had exactly this problem. far above my pay grade.
sorry this happened.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

why is a torque wrench even being used?


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## spacemanspiff (Dec 13, 2020)

rwh963 said:


> why is a torque wrench even being used?


Manual says to torque to 36 nm for tube and 31 nm tube cap. 

So I was using the wrench to avoid over tightening ....the irony isn’t lost on me


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

rwh963 said:


> why is a torque wrench even being used?


Ya, hand tighten then give it a slight edge......he may be able to just get a big a$$ bubblegum weld to block that hole and use one of the other bottom of block ports to change oil in the future....that is an ugly break.


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

How big was the torque wrench, could have got it tight enough with a 2" long wrench???


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

spacemanspiff said:


> Any recommendations on what/where to get a new block or engine?
> 
> And thank you, long time listener, first time caller.
> 
> ...


your going to want to see a welder first , try to find a used motor second as a new motor for that model is OUCH! 
Part Number: 20003203
Engine, Ax254 Opp 120v/60w
Price: $549.95









Replacement Parts for Lawn Mowers and Snow Blowers - Ariens


Ariens genuine OEM parts provide peace of mind and the confidence of knowing these parts were specifically designed for an exact fit, optimal performance and safety.




www.ariens.com


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

captchas said:


> your going to want to see a welder first , try to find a used motor second as a new motor for that model is OUCH!
> Part Number: 20003203
> Engine, Ax254 Opp 120v/60w
> Price: $549.95
> ...





captchas said:


> your going to want to see a welder first , try to find a used motor second as a new motor for that model is OUCH!
> Part Number: 20003203
> Engine, Ax254 Opp 120v/60w
> Price: $549.95
> ...


I would first consider epoxy. Fast, cheap and most likely might work out well


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Agreed with Foggy. I've fixed Quite a few Blocks with JB Weld. I've also used a Product called Quicksteel. Make Sure You Give it Enough time to cure.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to SBF Spacemanspiff









Sorry to meet under these circumstances.
I'd be hard pressed to go with a new engine but I don't know your situation. If it can't be fixed it looks like a new block is about $210 and then you'd need a gasket set. Hopefully it's not as bad as the photo shopped image above or it's easier welded up than it looks.








PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


Parts lookup and repair parts diagrams for outdoor equipment like Toro mowers, Cub Cadet tractors, Husqvarna chainsaws, Echo trimmers, Briggs engines, etc.




www.partstree.com





You might want to use some pipe sealant on the joints and not worry so much on getting them overly tight. Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant


.


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

Yeah, that sucks. No way to weld that properly. The section would have to be cut out, then built up layer by layer, sanded down and maybe modified gasket. Rather than re-tap you've be better off using the other drain hole going forward. Sadly it would cost more in weldor labour than a new block methinks.


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## spacemanspiff (Dec 13, 2020)

Thanks for the responses everyone. It’s a great community!

I plan on getting on the phone with some local shops tomorrow to see what I can find out about cost/feasibility of welding, replacing the block, or engine swap. The later I can do myself the others probably not. I could try JB weld, but I don’t want to ruin the other components if I end up doing the block replacement. 

As someone pointed out, the AX254 from Ariens is $549 but I’m wondering if I can get it cheaper straight from LCT. But after spending an hour googling, it’s proven hard to find one, sigh. 


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

sadly i can't find a discounted motor for that ariens right now, what turns up is just what ariens wants 549.00

mark found a bare block for over 200 yet if your not a really good mechanically inclined person you would need to find some who can help you or pay a shop, labor around me runs over 100 a hour a block swap is around a 6 hour job?? book time . a shop would also want to use a new ring set and gaskets , which IMMO would bring that repair to near or over 1k 
good luck


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## Johnny G1 (Jan 28, 2020)

Any chance of putting one of those Predator motors on it, myself I would super clean the break and use liquid steel and let it set up for a full 24 hrs . Patched bigger break than with JB weld as there is no pressure there to worry about, could still screw in the plug covered with JB and then fix the bottom part also. Just my thought's, Good luck.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

It you can plug that hole.. use an evacuation pump to do future oil changes if the other drain plug is in a bad location for future oil changes....about 30 bucks
Did you use Teflon tape ?.
This reduces friction dramatically while tightening and can cause such fractures.
If you use Teflon tape on taper threads.. you have to go easy...it will just keep going and going 


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Drain the engine, remove it from the chassis and take it to be welded. The threads are metric straight thread and there is probably an O ring on the drain plug that needs a flat outer surface to seal properly.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Deezen,

 ... respectfully, engine is already drained ...


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

My initial thoughts on this are, why was OP using a torque wrench on this ? I can't imagine that it would require more than about 10 ft-lbs, and torque wrenchs are notoriously inaccurate on the lower end of their scale...but I guess this is monday morning quarterbacking.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@RIT333,

Yeah, that , for sure, was a serious and expensive lesson learned on the common sense aspect of working on equipment, especially aluminum.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

deezlfan said:


> Drain the engine, remove it from the chassis and take it to be welded. The threads are metric straight thread and there is probably an O ring on the drain plug that needs a flat outer surface to seal properly.


I think it uses the extension tube with pipe thread.. it expanded it out till it popped.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Oddly I posted my welding comment yesterday at about post five but it just popped up this morning further down the thread.



> respectfully, engine is already drained ...


Probably not well enough to satisfy someone that welds aluminum.



> I think it uses the extension tube with pipe thread.


Possibly but pipe thread doesn't usually require a torque value.

I'm more interested in the failure of the torque wrench at such a low spec. I'd speculate that the most 3/8 and 1/2" drive wrenches aren't even advertised as functioning in that range. And if the original poster has a 1/4 drive inch/pound wrench he has likely worked enough projects to suspect something is wrong.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

We aren't working with an actual photo from the OP so it's all speculation at this point.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

please 

let's let this one sleep till the op comes back with how he made what's going to be a very costly embarrassing fix on a near 3 year old machine 
he already made a post saying something along the line of making some investigating phone calls today about a fix and it's cost . PLEASE give him some time


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## spacemanspiff (Dec 13, 2020)

captchas said:


> sadly i can't find a discounted motor for that ariens right now, what turns up is just what ariens wants 549.00
> 
> mark found a bare block for over 200 yet if your not a really good mechanically inclined person you would need to find some who can help you or pay a shop, labor around me runs over 100 a hour a block swap is around a 6 hour job?? book time . a shop would also want to use a new ring set and gaskets , which IMMO would bring that repair to near or over 1k
> good luck


Thanks for checking! I'm coming up with nothing too. Though there are some ebay listings for some LCT engines that might work.

I'm somewhat handy, but I've never done engine internals. It's looking like weld/epoxy or new engine. Of those options I'm capable of doing the epoxiy-ing and engine swapping.



Shovel said:


> It you can plug that hole.. use an evacuation pump to do future oil changes if the other drain plug is in a bad location for future oil changes....about 30 bucks
> Did you use Teflon tape ?.
> This reduces friction dramatically while tightening and can cause such fractures.
> If you use Teflon tape on taper threads.. you have to go easy...it will just keep going and going
> ...


I used teflon on the cap, not sure if there was any on tube. But it seems like a reasonable assumption.



deezlfan said:


> Oddly I posted my welding comment yesterday at about post five but it just popped up this morning further down the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I began with putting the tube cap back on at 31 nm per spec with a counterhold on the tube. That worked just fine. So when I went to do the tube and it seemed liked there was too much wrenching going on, I set the torque wrench back to 31 nm and tested it on the tube cap and it worked just fine. Then I set it back to 36 nm for the tube itself but based on anothers suggestion, I'm guessing the combo of some teflon tape and a tapered thread lead to the crack.

Finally, here is an actual picture of the carnage


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

i would lay odds a good welding shop can tig that baby back for you after you flush it out good so there is no oil residue left


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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)

Way too much overthinking here. Take the sump off the engine. Try not to tear the gasket as it is the correct thickness for crank endplay. Clean the oil off the part, rough the area to be epoxied with sandpaper inside and outside. Thread a plug in the hole, clean the area 1 more time with lacquer thinner. JBweld inside and outside. You need only use a thin layer and make sure you go beyond the crack. Let it cure 24 hours. Clean the gasket and mating surfaces with lacquer thinner. Use a thin layer of sealer on both sides of the gasket. Put it back together and set up the drain hole on the other side.
Now, throw the torque wrench in the corner. It gets used for head bolts and connecting rod bolts. Everything else is hand tight + a little bit with blue loctite on the threads. Tighten the sump bolts with a torque wrench and the bolts might break or you could tear the threads out of the aluminum block. 
I deal with this stuff every day and have learned years ago by having to repair my mistakes. You can learn from my mistakes or yours.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

spacemanspiff said:


> Thanks for checking! I'm coming up with nothing too. Though there are some ebay listings for some LCT engines that might work.
> 
> I'm somewhat handy, but I've never done engine internals. It's looking like weld/epoxy or new engine. Of those options I'm capable of doing the epoxiy-ing and engine swapping.
> 
> ...


Teflon tape on the cap won't cause that... Only on the pipe itself.
Still don't beat your self too much while 36 NM is kinda high it should have lived through it.. you just had some terrible luck is all.
I once cracked a head on a Ford tightening a valve cover.. it was getting late.. anyway the cavity for the bolt had partially filled with oil .. the bolt was backed out quite not actually started. it as if someone never finished putting it in and forgot about it.. you know like when you are trying to line it up and the gasket slips.. so you come back to do it last.. it was just there but not turned in.. I bought the truck used. It developed a small oil leak.. I found the loose bolt and wiggled it around to enlarge the gasket hole.. got the bolt going.. was going down fair enough.. then the big pop come.. the hole was loaded with oil. I was compressing oil.. the hydraulic pressure busted the head...since it used a small bolt the surface area was much smaller on the end of the bolt..which gave it great force while acting as a piston..it used a 10 mm socket so the bolt shank was pretty small.
Anyway..with that small of a bolt and fine thread..the force was huge..I suspect the bolt had old silicone in the threads which blocked the oil from coming back up the hole and around the bolt...it was just terrible luck.

I think what happened with you was while you were tightening that pipe you didn't have the pipe 'backed up' with your other hand enough..the combination of the long pipe.. aluminum block.. long handle of the torque wrench.. and little too much torque got you..it was just terrible luck.
That aluminum was already stressed once as well during the original installation.


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

Usually, you need 2 wrenches to unscrew the oil plug on most snowblowers.One to hold the drain tube,the other to remove the plug.This will prevent the oil tube from coming out of the block.


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

spacemanspiff said:


> I've got a Ariens Deluxe 28 / 921046, just under three years old, well maintained. Was changing the oil today to get ready for the season and my torque wrench failed and I ended over tightening the oil drain tube
> Thanks!


I am sorry this happened to you, but I also think many can look at your experience and learn from it.
I realize this is/will be an expensive lesson, but just wondering, how hard were you pushing on that torque wrench? 39 nm is roughly 28 foot pounds. 
Also, what type of a torque wrench were you using? 
Small engines and such powered equipment require a much different torque wrench from the one most have in their tool box. Also, when using a torque wrench, remember it is only "accurate" for a period of time, is will eventually loose it's accuracy if not "wound back" to it's minimum scale and also the calibration is not checked regularly.


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## Pete826 (Dec 1, 2020)

Sorry this happened also but don’t worry sun is still going to come up tomorrow. I highly agree with Strtch. Never use a torque wrench on any oil plug on car, motorcycle ,tractor. You are asking for trouble. I would use a heli-coil and some JB metal weld. Best of luck.


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## ou2mame (Dec 23, 2019)

If it were me I would replace with a 414cc LCT engine. It'll run you about 275 shipped.


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

When those oil pipes...(nipples) are threaded there is a taper on the threads......the tighter you crank on them they will bust open a soft metal housing......gently bently.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I am curious as how the OP made out, hopefully he will post back with his resolve.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

I have a link for discounted engines and the LCT 254cc is about $129 but it seems Ariens has them made with a 1” crank and normally LCT has it at 3/4 but if your going to get the block you may as well get all the spare parts and maybe swap the crank. I’ll see if I can find the link on my phone and post


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would not bother with switching out a crank, I would change the pulley first if that was an issue.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Oneacer I agree, He should upgrade to the 291cc as I found them super cheap, about $140 shipped.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-5HP-LCT-...epid=0&hash=item4226446db2:g:pbAAAOSwJ7Bf0UUC


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

That's a real good price ... a no brainer actually.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Thought about grabbing one but already have a 414cc to mount lol and the 254cc on my 24 deluxe is plenty for a 24”


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

swa


oneacer said:


> I would not bother with switching out a crank, I would change the pulley first if that was an issue.


isn't there some sleeves to make a 3/4 a 1?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Probably, ..... really just a 1/8 circular shim with a cutout allowing for the keyway. Probably need a slightly larger key.

There is usually always a way to get something to work.


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

oneacer said:


> I am curious as how the OP made out, hopefully he will post back with his resolve.


I hope he's able to seal this up one way or another. With crankshaft ventilation there should not be much pressure in the sump, just extremes of heat/cold all the time.....certainly be worth trying to JB weld or epoxy it even if it is butt ugly after.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

oneacer said:


> Probably, ..... really just a 1/8 circular shim with a cutout allowing for the keyway. Probably need a slightly larger key.
> 
> There is usually always a way to get something to work.


i was trying to remember from the repower threads where they used a sleeve, sure enough there is a kit 3/4 shaft to 1 inch pulleys with a specail key 








3/4" to 1" Pulley Crank Shaft Sleeve Adapter Predator Bushing Sheave & Key USA | eBay


·Step Key Length is about 2”. · Alters pulleys for a different speed or belt. · Made By CNC Machine,Which Provide P erfect match. · Adapts larger wheel bores to smaller axels. Sleeve length is about 3”.



www.ebay.com


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Issue is the pulley on the Ariens, The double pulley has the key machines into it so you need to find a replacement pulley as the key won’t fit into the 3/4 shaft key way


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## spacemanspiff (Dec 13, 2020)

Update: After calling around, and not having any luck finding a welder, I pulled the trigger on a replacement engine from LCT via my local small-engine repair shop. Getting it straight from LCT shaved off some of the cost (those Arien's stickers cost a lot I guess). Those it's not as cheap as some of the ones noted above. Where were those posts before I ordered a new on on Monday morning?!?!

Once I've got the new engine installed and everything working fine, I plan on cleaning up the old engine and either trying again to find a welder to fix it and then sell it, or just part it out as is. 

As for all the tsk-tsks, people, don't worry, I learned my lesson. Despite what the manual says, I will hand tighten only from now on. Or better yet, I will install an ez-drain valve or something similar so that I never have to worry about it again.

Thanks for all the posts everybody! I appreciate all the help. It's a great community!


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Great !


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

these work very well harbor tools and others have them plus they work great to remove oil from anything with no touch


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## Fix mw (Sep 18, 2020)

spacemanspiff said:


> I've got a Ariens Deluxe 28 / 921046, just under three years old, well maintained. Was changing the oil today to get ready for the season and my torque wrench failed and I ended over tightening the oil drain tube and cracked the block.
> 
> From reading some other posts I understand that this could be welded, if I could find someone to do it. Otherwise, am I looking at a new block or new engine? Anyone gone through this recently?
> 
> Thanks!


 If you can carefully cut out the damaged section and fit in a fresh piece of aluminum it will be easy to weld. Do this work yourself and then have it welded by a competent welder. I believe this may be the most inexpensive alternative. Also will be very durable repair.


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## IDEngineer (Oct 16, 2018)

Back on the original topic of torque wrenches... I had one of the clicker style fail on me too, causing me to strip out a bolt in the lower unit of a very expensive boat engine. A royal PITA getting the shank out.

Since then I have acquired a nice set of old-school beam torque wrenches, large (ft-lbs) and small (in-lbs). Nothing to fail, no moving parts, no calibration required, and I can watch the scale in real time and make my own decisions rather than "hoping the wrench is working properly today". Yes, I can estimate torque reasonably well by hand but if you're using a torque wrench in the first place, it means you're doing something more important than "reasonably well".


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## justadbeer (Oct 17, 2019)

spacemanspiff said:


> Too dark now.
> 
> But I saw this earlier trying to research it, and it’s almost exactly how mine looks.
> 
> ...


From the looks of it, if it wee me, I'd get a small block/piece of alum and weld it right over the whole mess. maybe something 3/8 - 1/2" thick and just drill and tap it for a smaller drain pipe, maybe 1/8" (if you don't already have a secondary plug.) You really have nothing to loose at this point. *Edit: I have also has a LOT of luck with JB weld. Really not a lot of pressure in the crankcase. I have JB welded hydraulic pistons (large 6" dia pistons) that have had deep gouges in them and after filing and sanding, they were no worse for the wear than before the accident that ruined them. Just make sure you clean the area super good with something like brake cleaner beforehand.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

SEE POST 51 problem fixed! he purchased a NEW MOTOR has it on and running for less than the cost of repairing the old motor ,and will either use the old for parts or strip and part out forsale


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i know it won't help you now but you might be able to repair it yourself if your somewhat handy. i would maybe recommend pulling the cover off the side cover off if you do attempt it yourself so you can make sure nothing nothing enters the crank case


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## RudyM (Dec 13, 2020)

These harbor freight motors are so well liked but don’t overlook the idea to just plug it up. Pipe the other side I probably has a nut to swap. 

If you use JB make sure it’s oil safe. Many Gasket makers and some loctites are not oil safe. Unsure about JB.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

IDEngineer said:


> Since then I have acquired a nice set of old-school beam torque wrenches..........".


Picked up a Craftsman 3/8" drive beam torque wrench at a yard sale about 20 years ago for a buck! That is what I use.


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