# Next Restore .....



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, picked up my next project this morning, a nice older JD 826 .... I plan on getting it running and bringing it up to date with new XTrac and Poly Skids, and sprucing up the paint, as it actually is cosmetically in good shape .... maybe some re-paint ... needs one of the auger ribbons straightened and axle bushings right off the bat, plus some fuel system work.

This one will be put in my personal fleet.


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## Honda1132 (Sep 2, 2016)

Nice paint.

How did your aerator project turn out?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Great condition, looks like you could maintain most of the original paint with some touch ups here and there.

The older JD's are very well built machines. Garage is filling fast   .


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

should be fun.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Honda1132,

Turned out well, all finished ... from old rust bucket to show room condition ....


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I don't know if you've read my comments about this machine, my experiences are with a JD 1032.

Positives, this is a heavy machine, cast iron gearbox, the augers are thicker than anything I've ever seen, the impeller is also incredibly thick and difficult to drill through, exact placement of holes for the impeller rubber is imperative as not to get too close to the underside support veins. I like the auger engage handle, an interesting engagement of the auger belt, and the rubber drive disk is incredibly easy to replace, it's at the end of the hex drive shaft, not in the middle, and only a few bolts.

Negatives, the handle tubing at the bottom where they turn are weak and subject to cracking, the chute needs to be cut in the middle and lengthen, the chute turning handle is uncomfortably low, BUT the worst is it is very tiring to pull up the drive lever, squeezing, rather than holding down with your palm.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I just ordered new XTrac tires ....

@JL,

If I have to, ill put a spring loaded pin to keep that lever in position so I don't have to hold it, like on my Ariens Tiller and some of my Ariens Blowers.

I just have to locate one of the large Wing Nuts, ... the one that goes on the left side axle to easily put the differential in and out.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

This one just went up for sale not too far from me. 
A couple of years newer than yours and has the taller chute, but looks to be in similar condition. They are asking $450.00.



















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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I'm catching up on posts, was out of town for a while. I have never used one, but have worked on a few, and can attest to their weight and strength of parts. I agree with JLawrence's assessment of pros and cons. Many of the traction parts are available on EBay, but may be easiest to wait for a broken one to get the parts you need.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

gonna surprise everyone with this restore. not actual blower but I forgot to take a before pic and this is pretty close.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Quick update ... I cleaned out a mouse nest, and lubed all the chains, shafts, bushings, etc... smooth operation and differential gear case is working fine. Impeller turns auger, and auger gear case seems fine.

Regarding the engine, It is running very rough, and wants to spit some gas back out the carb, which appears to be brand new ... It sounds like it is firing out of time, and the plug was black soot ... I will be pulling the flywheel to check the keyway, as one of the front augers is bent from what appears to be a very large stone/object ... ? I will check the ignition while I am in there as well. I also have another carb if need be.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I was right, it was certainly out of timing ... the flywheel magnets had come loose, and sitting against the rim, surprised it even ran at all. I superglued them back in position. I am probably going to order electronic ignition while I am in there.

Ordered a new impeller bearing, and did some clean and paint. Took the tank off and the carb, was clean, but changing line while I am in there.

Also ordering a new impeller bearing, old one shot.

Taking bucet part to straighten one of the augers, and probably check out the gear case while I am there .... this way I know everything has been gone through.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I had the magnets come loose, even broke them, on a 12hp Wisconsin Robin pressure washer. I went to Home Depot and bought the strongest 2 part epoxy they had. They've never came loose.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I used super glue I had on hand. ... There on there like I welded them. They certainly could have designed it better for sure. I cleaned it up good and they mated great.

Makes me want to check my other 8HP Tecumseh, the twin to this one, on one of my Ariens. I'll probably put electronic ignition on that one as well while I am in there. we'll see .....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

So.... It appears that there is no electronic ignition for this 8HP setup, with the coil under the flywheel and the 2 small magnets inside the flywheel ...? I'll still look a little further ....

Anyone try maybe the Nova II module on this type of setup, thus using the coil but omitting the points and condenser on these 8HP Tecumseh with under the flywheel coil / points setup?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

After re-attaching the magnets, looks like I'll just clean up the coil legs and check the points , as it appears no electronic for this type of setup .........


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

yep, I could not find an electronic ignition for those older points setups. Change the points and condenser and it will be fine. Note that if you remove the ignition module (??) you will have to time it against piston position, not complicated but a bit tedious.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, I'm not going to be touching the coil or its three legs ... just going to clean up the ends .... I am going to check the gap, but might even just leave the points and condenser the same, unless they need replacing.

Yeah, don't feel like messing with TDC and all that good stuff unless I absolutely have to. ... 

update .... Got it cleaned , all back together ... starts right up, runs , but wants to hunt/surge often ..... very annoying ... i messed with the carb adjustments, not much help, new carb... ... I am leaning towards the points and condenser, or maybe a valve out of adjustment ... I can see why people just replace these engines with a predator, since you can not put electronic ignition in them.

Maybe I'll try new points and condenser, or maybe take that money and put it towards a Predator.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Surging is not usually associated with ignition problems. Have you checked governor adjustment and function or richened your mixtures?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update ... Ok, I was a bit tired yesterday, and walked away .... came back to it this morning. Let me just mention, this is the carb that was on the machine when I got it, but it appears brand new, and I did disassemble it anyways and gave it a quick check. So today I did dial in the carburetor .... also added a little extra SeaFoam in the gas to maybe assist in some additional valve cleaning, etc , just for good measure ... ..... anyways, as the enclosed video shows, I did get it dialed in and running, but at about 35-45 seconds, you will hear it cough, cut out, and then pick right back up again. So, another little tid bit, .... when I shut it off to park it, a little dribble if gas comes out of the carb body opening by the choke butterfly .... Soooo, I certainly now am leaning towards replacing the carb that is on it .... ?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Hard to tell if ignition or fuel related issue.

Any chance it could be a fuel delivery issue, did you clean out the tank and in tank filter sock and replace fuel line? Although this doesn't explain fuel leaking from the carb after shut down, possible float issue? Maybe give it a good thorough cleaning and ensure float is good and adjusted correctly?

Is the carb that is on it a Tecumseh or Walbro carb, or a Chinese knock off? If it is the correct Tecumseh carb and in good condition, I would rebuild it instead of replacing with a cheap Chinese knock off. If it is a Chinese carb, I would probably just order another one and replace it.

My HM80 came with a Walbro carb and carb kits are very expensive especially shipping to Canada. I could not find a Chinese carb that would work without modifying throttle and choke assemblies. Luckily the original carb was in good shape and I was able to find a Walbro bowl gasket (larger diameter than Tecumseh carb) and use the tiny rubber o ring from a Tecumseh kit.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

It almost seems as if there wasn't enough fuel then there was, problem with the float inlet valve sticking? Blockage somewhere, a touch of water, touch of dirt, does it need a new fuel line,
Your video shows once, does this happen every 30 seconds, was this a just once happening?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update ..... this happens sporadically, .... I am also leaning to a float type of issue ... lol, I just saw they have a sale on Amazon reduced to 10.59 for a new carb ... I had to order impeller and axle bushings, so I through in a replacement carb. I do have an original same type carb from another machine on the shelf that I could rebuild, but easier to throw on another carb. I will get it resolved one way or the other, as it runs beautiful when it is getting a good gas flow. ... yes, I took off the tank, cleaned it, and installed all new lines.

Anyways, I took the bucket apart, heated up and straighten the bent auger, separated one auger also that was rust welded. Took out the wrong auger bolts, one reg. bolt and one regular clevis pin, as I will put in the correct shear bolts. I am going to dismantle the gear case, as the seals are leaking, and I will check the internals while I am in there.

I straightened the bucket as well, and I will be putting on a new cutting edge as well, and also tacking one of the bucket corners where it is showing a tear crack.

And of course, being into it this far, I guess a paint job is in order, ..... oh yeah, and I still have to order some poly skids. ..... I think this will be my last restoration this season, I need a break before winter ....


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Well done.
It must have been something large and solid to bend one of those augers. If the gear box took that hit without the correct shear pins and it is undamaged, that says a lot for the quality and toughness of the internals of that gear box. Maybe the object took out the shear pins at that time and they replaced with the bolt.

Will enjoy following along on the restoration, hoping for lot's of pics, I really like these older John Deere machines. 

And yes you have been busy with a wide variety of interesting projects this spring/summer, need to rest up for all the snow we are going to get this winter🥶😉


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

.... I actually think we are going to get a good amount this year, with all the crazy weather out west, etc ....

We will surely be ready, lol ......


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update ..... Got the augers and chute all cleaned and primed ... give them color later today .....

Going to take the gear box apart later as well ....

What a gorgeous day out today, great for painting.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Oneacer said:


> What a gorgeous day out today, great for painting.


Your JD avatar came and went quickly!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Agree that it sounded like either the float or needle valve. Ya, easier to just replace until you have some spare time to rebuild. It is fun rebuilding carbs on a very COLD day in the house
on the kitchen table where the ol ball and chain is complaining about the smell of carb cleaner etc. 

I tell her "where do you think I get the money to keep you in the luxury you are accustomed too???????"

I used to wait for 2 for 1 coupons for Taco bell or McDonalds but now splurge without them for In and Out Burger.

all from selling/repairing snowblowers.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@tabora,

Yeah, it was nice, but brought back my original ...  just playin around .... figured i would salute the JD since I picked up my first one.


Update: ... The scraper bar was not as bad as I thought ... I do have some scraper flat stock, but I like the thickness of the JD one, so I am going to place my stock under the JD scraper, thus giving me a perfect straight edge, as well as a very sturdy cutting edge ....  .... I am going to mirror image flip it when I install it as well, still keeping the wide side towards the ground.

Now I have to prep and paint the bucket ....

By the way, on these JD cast iron auger gear cases, I imagine that is just a push cap on the end for the bolt access, correct? I'm sure its not threaded.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Project is moving along swiftly, you are always resourceful with your home made belt covers, dual shaft repower and scraper bar repair.

The wear on the scraper and bucket sure looks odd, always amazes me how people abuse fine machinery.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, it is amazing how most people take a bad adjustment, and keep running it. In this case no only was the bucket bowed with a dent along the bottom, but the side skids were never adjusted, resulting in the bottom of the bucket wearing out in that funky position. I straightened the bucket, and will be adjusting new poly skids I have on order.

The only thing left really is to get in the gearcase, as I believe the end bolt of the shaft , behind the end cap on the gear case loosened up, allowing the impeller shaft to move back and forth slightly, which resulted in some scraping on the backside of the bucket, behind the impeller itself.

Yeah, this will be probably a keeper.

LOL, I do have to sell a few so I can have some room back in my shop.... I have to back out my tractor just to work on something .. Hhehheheh


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Yea it's a push cap, lots of luck getting a screwdriver underneath it to pry it off.

You are nuts doing a restoration like you do. Just beautiful but the time. I want to buy only from you.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I really enjoy doing it, although a challenge at times, that is what makes it so interesting.

I have a couple ideas to remove the cap, I'll let you know how it works out.

I should also get to painting the bucket today. Maybe even prep the engine for paint if I feel ambitious, as the bushings and new carb wont be here til mid week.

I think I will make a Harbor Freight run and pick up that punch set for gasket making, and swing by AutoZone for the gasket material set.

What a perfect day today, in the 50's now and no humidity, going to be in the 70's .. does not get any better.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Yea it's a push cap, lots of luck getting a screwdriver underneath it to pry it off.
> 
> You are nuts doing a restoration like you do. Just beautiful but the time. I want to buy only from you.


"Grasshopper , It's not the time........it's the journey. "

Kung Fu ( Master Po)


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update .... boy, I forgot how much time it takes for a bucket prep and paint. I put some weld on the bottom corners as well, where it started to show hair line cracks. I did manage to get it in primer today .... maybe give it color later if I have time.

My new axle bushings were delivered today, along with a new impeller bushing as well. I still have to check in the gear case for any issues, as I believe the bolt behind the end cap may have loosed, because there is back and forth play on the impeller shaft, and I pulled the side plate, and gears are fine. Yeah this is definitely going to be a keeper for my personal line-up.

I will be selling my Toro 724, as well as my 8HP Ariens 10000 series and my 10HP Yard Machines. Gata get some room back.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update ....

Whewww .... Got color on the bucket ... now that's enough for one day .. time for shower, dinner on the back porch and the Red Sox play the Rays at 600 .... a very good day ...  oh yeah, and walk the dog .....


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

That is a lot to accomplish in a day, you earned a relaxing evening. Bucket looks great.

Miserable weather here today, steady rain and cold (15C/59F), the pup didn't even get her daily walk.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Looks great! How do you manage to spray paint outside (wind, etc.)?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Ideally, you don't want to really do it on a windy day .... although it can be done on a slight breeze, just takes a little practice, just have to be careful, and work with the breeze .... Today was actually a perfect day, in the 70's with no humidity.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

You're more patient than I am. I've tried years ago but got irked by the winds, etc. and started doing it inside the garage .. but that brings up other problems if everything's not protected from paint dust etc.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, if your going to paint inside, your going to need a paint booth, with ventilation and a good filter.

Much easier doing it outside, usually in the morning, as less breezy.

You will get pretty good at it the more you do it. 

Small stuff is real easy, as once sprayed, you can hang it inside to cure. Buckets are a little harder, but on a good day, is it pretty dry to the touch in a few hours, enough to carefully move it inside to cure.

You also want to do it in the middle of the yard, away from the house, shop, garage or any other structure, so there is no overspray.

I usually set up small stuff hanging from pipes across ladders, or use my old B&D Workmate folding work table.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Are you spraying from a can or using a gun? If so, what type, old siphon feed hp, lvlp, hvlp


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just using rattle cans, works just fine ... 

I have a compressor and was thinking of using a spray setup, but for what I do, and all the supplys and equipment, clean-up, etc., involved, well, I just find the rattle cans of today are much simpler and quicker.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Oneacer said:


> Ideally, you don't want to really do it on a windy day .... although it can be done on a slight breeze, just takes a little practice, just have to be careful, and work with the breeze .... Today was actually a perfect day, in the 70's with no humidity.


try not to paint in very hot weather and direct sunlight. It will in many cases make the paint not flow properly and cause orange peal. The finish may appear dull. best to paint in the shade if possible.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Oneacer said:


> Just using rattle cans, works just fine ...
> 
> I have a compressor and was thinking of using a spray setup, but for what I do, and all the supplys and equipment, clean-up, etc., involved, well, I just find the rattle cans of today are much simpler and quicker.


you can get a cheap harbor freight HVLP gun for 10 dollars on sale and they work fine. I use rust o leam oil based paint from Home Depot that cost less than 10 dollars per quart and thin it with either acetone or paint thinner. 
you can paint a lot of stuff with a quart of paint.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

You must be talking about the 17.00 gun ... imagine it sometimes goes on sale. If I did ever go that route, I would probably want the better gun?

I suppose if I was always painting buckets all the time, and other oversize items, I might purchase the spray gun, and go through the steps of mixing my own and the cleanup of tools, etc. .... usually I am just touching up, and rattle cans work well. It is rare that I restore totally complete units, as those usually are for my own line-up, which btw has reached its capacity ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@JLawrence,

Actually, I was expecting a tough time, but it actually popped off easy with carefully using a chisel and a ball peen hammer.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

My cutting edge I made to go under the JD original thick one is going to work great ..... There is surely no flex in that bottom edge now, straight as an arrow, now that I straightened the bucket, and tacked the lower corners, along with the thick scraper bar setup I put on there now. ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update ... I knew that the way the impeller was moving slightly forward and backward, as you can see where it was rubbing the inside of the bucket slightly, that something was amiss in the gearbox. I figured it had to be the shouldered flange bushing in the front of the gear case allowing for this movement. Once I opened it up, it was certainly what I figured. Wore the flange right off .... I ordered a new bushing as well as all new seals. I'll also make a new side plate gasket. Both the gears still look brand new ... a testament to the way these things were built back in the day.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Bucket looks great. These older JD's were sure well built, back when things were built to last and also be repaired.

Definitely a keeper!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Oneacer said:


> Yeah, if your going to paint inside, your going to need a paint booth, with ventilation and a good filter.
> 
> Much easier doing it outside, usually in the morning, as less breezy.
> 
> ...


I like doing buckets when the pollen dust is flying all around.

it gives it a green flake to it.........


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

" I like doing buckets when the pollen dust is flying all around.
it gives it a green flake to it......... "

Yeah, do it in the spring when the oak gives off that nice pollen ... kind like iridescent ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Heated up and straightened couple miner dents in the impeller fins, sanded and primed it. Then rain moved in .... color tomorrow if I have time.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

The project looks great, you make restoration look easy. I’m enjoying following along on this one.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Restoration is really not that hard, but you do have to have a knack with mechanical abilities, the right tools, and certainly the time and room to do it right. You pretty much know where to get parts at a good price pretty quick, even many obsolete parts can be had with generic, local or even fabricated.

It gives one a sense of accomplishment when you can take a non working rusted unit, or anything for that matter, and give it new life.

If anyone likes restoring things, as I do, there is a show called " The Repair Shop" filmed in the UK. They are in to the 8th season, and I watched them all over the years.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Oneacer said:


> Restoration is really not that hard, but you do have to have a knack with mechanical abilities, the right tools, and certainly the time and room to do it right. You pretty much know where to get parts at a good price pretty quick, even many obsolete parts can be had with generic, local or even fabricated.
> 
> It gives one a sense of accomplishment when you can take a non working rusted unit, or anything for that matter, and give it new life.
> 
> If anyone likes restoring things, as I do, there is a show called " *The Repair Shop*" filmed in the UK. They are in to the 8th season, and I watched them all over the years.


Excellent tip! The Repair Shop is on BBC!
Thanks!


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Your impeller looks thinner than mine on my JD 1032.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@JL,

I don't know about yours, but this is the heaviest gauge impeller I have ever seen .... I had to heat it up good to hammer those small dents out.

This whole JD unit is heavier gauge then my older Ariens 10000 series.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I'll compare mine but hard to take a comparison picture when mine is all together.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Got the impeller in paint, now to clean and paint the gearbox ... but now its time to go golfing ....


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

where is todays update? I wanna sleep tonight.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

... after putting color on the impeller, it is Monday, and I usually go golfing on Mondays .... 

Will pick back up on it tomorrow ... my bushings and the new carb came in today as well ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update ...

I had some errands and other stuff to do today, but I did get to clean, prime and paint the auger gear box ....

Quick couple tips ... I always save plastic containers, and one many uses is to easily cover things, like an opening in a gear case you don't want painted, as well as keeping pipe insulation on hand, as it allows to protect holes from paint, yet allowing you to suspend it for paint ...


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update ....

Got a few more things painted, new XTrac tires should be here tomorrow, dismantled the drive, and getting ready to open and grease the transmission/differential, of course after freeing up the rust welded internal axle on the left clutch side ... I know the gears in the tranny will be rusted good, and I already sprayed some penetrating oil in the case ... will be opening it after my lunch ... have all new bushings as well, as the axle bushings were shot.

It amazes me JD never put a grease fitting oin the transmission case, but I think I will put one there, as this is going into my fleet, and will keep this JD 826 forever, since I am doing a complete restore. ....


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Always impressed with your attention to detail.

Progressing nicely, tractor internals appear to be very well built. A little surprised at the amount of corrosion inside the housing.

Can you post some some photos of the differential once you have it apart. 

I am not that familiar with these JD's, but the more I see how robust they are, the more I want one


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

As your other projects: VERY nice!

My Baycrest has the same type of differential as yours. These work very well.
Mine was rusted solid but managed to clean, free everything up, add zerks and reassemble.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I am taking a break, was getting parts ready for paint ... that corrosion on the inside your seeing is from a huge mouse hotel ...... mice pee is like acid, will rust metal in no time.

Yes, I am now going to dismantle the differential, and expect to see bone dry as well ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update ... Differential was surely bone dry, here it is with my penetrating oil sprayed in it ... Also got to paint a few more pieces, ( @quexpress ...note that on the outer left hub, you want to leave the center circle with no paint, as that is where the clutch plate (fiber clutch washer) sits ....)

It took a very long time cleaning the gears, as I had to take a dental pick and clean each spline one by one .... whoooh ... came out perfect though ....


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

quexpress said:


> As your other projects: VERY nice!
> 
> My Baycrest has the same type of differential as yours. These work very well.
> Mine was rusted solid but managed to clean, free everything up, add zerks and reassemble.


It's nice when machines are engineered right.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just re-assembled all the cleaned up gears in a bed of grease, and installed a zerk fitting, which JD should have done in the manufacture of it. 

It will be so nice now to be able to use the slip differential, instead of direct drive all the time ... 

Now game time ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

well, since I had the engine off, might as well strip it down, prep, prime and paint it ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update .... My XTrac came in, ... whew , they are some big tires those 8 inch rims. 
Dis-mounted the lawn tires, now to clean and paint the rims before I mount the new XTrac ...

Also got color on the engine and covers,


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I like that littl red wagon. have a similar one that I wanna restore.......someday. been saying that for a coupla years


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, I love my !little red wagon .... I made a tow bar for it, used to hook it to my tractor and ride the grandkids around the block .... Also recently, the sides are pinned and drop down ... I hauled a couple trees out to the curb, where people picked up the wood, I also strapped the but ends of the branches and dragged them to the curb, where I loaded them on my trailer for the landfill.

When I was doing the branches, I bolted a 2x4 across the width to hold the butt ends, which I strapped down.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, rain on and off today, so painting put aside ...

Got to assemble the gear case and auger assembly , as all my seals, bushing and gasket came in. That tightened it right up, and not leaking any oil ...  ... I even put in the 5W20 motor oil it called for, using full synthetic .... super quit and very smooth operation. I'll put it in the bucket later ..... it was a little tricky getting the small key in the worm gear, which the gear goes in the gear case first, but not too bad.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update .... I put the bucket all back together with new impeller bushings, and the auger bushings were new already .... with the rebuilt gear case, this thing is smooth as butter, and not one bit loose .... I even drilled and tapped for zerk fittings on each auger, which should have been done in the original design ..... I have to tell you, this 26 inch JD bucket is the heaviest bucket I have ever worked on ... this machine will be with me til I die, then go to my kids .... lol, along with all my other ones ...


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Lookin' good!!


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Oneacer said:


> Update .... I put the bucket all back together with new impeller bushings, and the auger bushings were new already .... with the rebuilt gear case, this thing is smooth as butter, and not one bit loose .... I even drilled and tapped for zerk fittings on each auger, which should have been done in the original design ..... I have to tell you, this 26 inch JD bucket is the heaviest bucket I have ever worked on ... this machine will be with me til I die, then go to my kids .... lol, along with all my other ones ...
> That look exactly like my 1983 large frame cub cadet.
> View attachment 180043
> View attachment 180045


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Surprised such a well built machine did not come with grease zerks on the augers.

Definitely a keeper, looks great. How big is the impeller gap on the machine?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

It is naturally pretty close ... I am not planning on any impeller mod at this point.

I am going to order a new mitten style pull start handle ... even though it has electric start, I hardly ever use it, I always pull start and I use mittens ...  ... I am also considering ordering one of those LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler Locks, but 29.99 is a hefty price, but I am sick of my cheap end on my grease gun, tough to put on and pull off the zerk fittings.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I bought one of these earlier this year. although expensive, I wish I had got one years ago.

It was about $45.00 here in Canada, but worth it IMHO


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, I just placed my order for that exact one ... 29.99 here in the states ... I expect to be very pleased with it as well ...


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, got to the wheels today ... even got the main body cleaned and primed, then started sprinkling, had to put a cover over the body ... maybe before the sun goes down, ill get color on it ... or tomorrow ...


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, I was able to get color on the body today ......


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## farmer52 (Dec 27, 2020)

Ziggy65 said:


> I bought one of these earlier this year. although expensive, I wish I had got one years ago.
> 
> It was about $45.00 here in Canada, but worth it IMHO
> 
> ...


Not to hijack this discussion....I have LnL and my only complaint is it can't be used in confined locations or "off angle" fittings.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

I love topics like this. You are the best oneacer and you keep me on my toes to do better and better.

here is my next restore.......


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> Well, got to the wheels today ... even got the main body cleaned and primed, then started sprinkling, had to put a cover over the body ... maybe before the sun goes down, ill get color on it ... or tomorrow ...
> 
> View attachment 180079
> View attachment 180080
> ...


You have some serious skills, so good that you make it all look so easy. I admit pictures only tell part of the story, if there was video of me "doing" the work it would be un-postable as it would be NSFW with all the swearing and drinking involved.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just put the new XTrac on my newly painted rims .... awesome ... some serious large tires these 8 inch rims....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well it won't be long now, and this JD should be all back together .... bucket all restored, the body is all back together, cleaned and serviced the differential, with adding zerk fittings and axle bushings .... just have to put the engine back together after paint and put it back on ... polish the handle bars or take and repaint them....... I still have to fabricate a new brake bracket .... this thing is going to be a beast for sure, and will look awesome as well ....


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

damn you have made me want to do the tractor motor and gas tank and surrounds 
great job


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I just fabricated an impeller pulley brake arm, now I need to attach the actual brake to the side of it, where it falls in the V groove of the pulley when the drive is disengaged. Then I will prime and paint it.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Oneacer said:


> I just fabricated an impeller pulley brake arm


Was the original MIA, or just worn out?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Original was MIA .... i just made the actual brake pad attachment, but have to shorten it ... That will be tomorrow, its 98 degrees and feels like 105 ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Final fabricated pulley brake came out great .... now to put the painted engine back together and back on.....


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

gonna be priceless when done. at least should go into the snowblower museum ......


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thank's, ... this one is staying in my personal fleet for sure.... 

lol ... those tires could almost go on a Mini Cooper .... lol


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

One of the features I like on this one is the slip differential, which was not working when I got it. It works flawlessly now, and I will probably pretty much leave it in differential mode.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Closing in towards the finish line ....painted my fabricated brake arm bar and engine back on body, just have to put on the new carb, gas tank and exhaust .... and clean up the control rods and handlebars..... 

Still waiting also on the new mitten style pull handle.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

The paint on the engine looks great! 
Did you use heat resistant paint?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks ... no, the only area I used heat paint is on the exhaust (flat black).

The engine was primed and then painted with JD Yellow by Rustoleum.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

That's good to hear. I'm surprised because I thought that the engine crankcase, etc. would have needed heat resistant paint. This opens up many more paint possibilities.
Thanks!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I imagine you could use a heat resistant paint, but I never have, never had an issue.

I usually always paint the exhaust with a heat high temp paint.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Looking very nice. 🍻


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, got the new carb on, the exhaust on ...all the control rods pulled off, sanded primed and painted chrome .... Also made new poly side skids ... came out good, I used 1/2 inch stock as well as added another 1/2 inch on the lower contact area, giving it a inch wide surface area at the ground. Beveled the front and back. Super glued it, and will also use flush machine bolts as well..... that will never separate .... 

I will also be using serrated washers between the poly skids and the bucket, to keep them from any shifting aftyer I adjust and tighten them.

LOL .... maybe even paint them JD yellow ....


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Well, after dinner, I was able to add machine flush bolts to the skids I made. Probably did not need to, as the super glue welded them together solid, but insurance ...  Used my hand countersink so the countersink screws fit flush.

Got them primed, and going to paint them JD Yellow tomorrow .... worked out real good ....


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

I never imagined paint would stick to that stuff... learned something new today, thanks. 🍻


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, the paint of today is for just about any material, including plastics, etc....... lol, including your skin if your not careful .... 

And always wear a respirator, or at least a face mask when spraying.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I was forced into making these skids, as JD in there infinite wisdom, put those skids at 2 inch center spacing for the carriage bolt holes .... I could have drilled another hole in the bucket and squared the hole, but I chose not to go that route, instead making my own skids for these odd spacing ones. Worked out well though.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Oneacer said:


> Yeah, the paint of today is for just about any material, including plastics, etc....... lol, including your skin if your not careful ....
> 
> And always wear a respirator, or at least a face mask when spraying.


why wear a mask??? how am I supposed to get high?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Update .... all done ... could not be more pleased .... 

I painted the skids JD Green, had no yellow ... runs great and looks great as well .... Bring on the snow .... I have many new toys to play with in my fleet ....


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Looks better than new, very nice job. 🍻


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

too nice to even use.....


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> Update .... all done ... could not be more pleased ....
> 
> I painted the skids JD Green, had no yellow ... runs great and looks great as well .... Bring on the snow .... I have many new toys to play with in my fleet ....
> 
> ...


Very nice work, happy for you that it’s complete but a little sad that it’s over, I’ve been enjoying watching this one unfold. Please give us an update this winter on how it works, maybe a couple action shots?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Excellent thread following the restoration of a beast of a machine.
Machine looks fantastic, you do great work. Will be interested to hear your thoughts on the machine after a winter of use, since you have such a variety of machines in your stable.
I really enjoy these posts detailing restorations, especially when they include lots of photos. Well done sir!


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

I just read through this thread. Outstanding. I hope to one day be able to restore machines to the quality that you do. 

The thing is, I would never be able to sell them after putting that much hard work into them.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@carguy20,

Thank you ... 

Yeah, usually when I do a complete ground up restore, I keep those in my personal line-up.

Even when I do a refurbish for resale, I still go through everything, as I won't sell a machine that I would not use myself, and up to my standards.

The key to doing a ground up restore is first, having a backup machine if you are coming close to winter months, as you don't want to rush things, and you will want a machine to use while your in the process of a restore.

Next is to restore a unit which is built solid, one that will last you another 30 or more years.

And of course to have the tools, the time, the room, and it helps to have some mechanical knowledge, as well as patience....


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> @carguy20,
> 
> Thank you ...
> 
> ...


Considering that as of right now, I have a total of 7 machines, my backups have backups lol. I have a couple of them "done", that are going to be given to friends / neighbors. The fuel systems are gone through and replaced, carbs are cleaned, new belts put on, and rust is treated. They are not perfect like yours, but they will run and move snow. I will probably only have 3, maybe 4 machines after I am done.

Finding a solid unit in central NJ is a little tough. Most people want to sell what they have, and frankly I won't pay the prices for what they are selling (rusted badly / non-running machines for $50-$100). I have the tools, but the room and time are usually what I run short on.


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