# 526 SWE Cub Cadet discharge chute control



## jdtbone (Nov 8, 2013)

Been looking at the Cub Cadet 526 SWE.

Can't get over my dislike of their chute control. This same chute control is used on a number of Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, and MTD products.

It is the large joystick that fore and aft movement lowers and raises the chute, and after pressing the red button, left and right movement swings the chute in that respective direction.

It doesn't seem to work very well even in the showroom. In addition, the chute elevation is only held in place by friction with no positive mechanical stops. I've read complaints about it working its way higher when discharging snow.

Anyone have first hand experience with this system, good or bad?

Thanks.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

It's made by mtd thats all i can say.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

69ariens said:


> It's made by mtd thats all i can say.


 enough said


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## KMac (Dec 17, 2013)

I use this system, and honestly i really like it. he cub cadet i have allows for a single lever to maintain auger and wheel drive so that you can adjust the chute as you walk. the up / down positioning will slip, but only if you do not have the bolt tightened to the correct tension (it has a large composit wing nut on it). once you get it at the right tension, it will stay where you put it.


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## jdtbone (Nov 8, 2013)

Thanks for the information KMac.

I've experimented a little bit with the system at various dealers and retailers and tried tightening up the wing nut. 

The chute still seems to move a little too easily when I'm fiddling with it even though at the handle end it is difficult to move as I have the wing nut so tight.

This is not a substitute for real world experience such as yours but it just makes me leery of that feature.

If I may ask how long have you had this snowblower and how much have you used it?

Thanks again for the feedback.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

From the few joystick controls I have tried including a Toro. I found it makes a big difference on how easy it is based on whether or not the engine was running.

Although I found the engine running on manual crank chutes makes it easier as well.


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

I had what seems to be the same chute control on a former Craftsman I owned for a very short period of time. I think I had it for maybe 2 or 3 winters, that's it. I sold it in October of 2011.

I can't say I got rid of it for the chute control, however, it was annoying. The up and down control worked just fine, however, moving the chute left to right was not good. It would never stay in place. As I would move forward, blowing the snow at a 90' angle to my left or right, the chute would slowly creep back to center.


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## KMac (Dec 17, 2013)

I would first say that you are best setting up the chute at home, from the box. It is not hard and I have never seen a show room assembly work properly, for any of the stick controlled models. If it is not done correctly, you won't get full rotation when using. 

The only thing I've noticed is that the stick is hard to move if you are trying to rotate the chute while the impeller is blasting snow through it. That's understandable though. Trick is to rotate chute without snow blasting through, and, to ensure that after the trigger is released, the stick has seated itself in the console firmly ... There must be some sort of gearing teeth that the trigger grabs and releases from. Mine has crept, but only a few degrees until the stick is seated, never back to center.

So, it takes some paying attention to, but it is VASTLY superior to the hand crank style chute controls. Plus, blowing is not a race so no big deal in my book if I just need to slow down, stop auger, reseat stick to move chute. Whole process takes a couple seconds after familiarized with controls.

I have the 3 stage 26 inch. This machine throws like a champ, and the engine doesn't break a sweat, starts first pull all 3 use occasions this season. Last storm was 6 inches of medium to wet snow... 30 foot toss at full speed easily.


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## lbt12 (Nov 18, 2014)

My chute freely moves left to right and back. It will not stay in left or center position. What mechanisnism controls this?


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

jdtbone said:


> Been looking at the Cub Cadet 526 SWE.
> 
> Can't get over my dislike of their chute control. This same chute control is used on a number of Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, and MTD products.
> 
> ...


I've had the same experience in the showrooms as you. I'd shop around a bit more and see what you come up with.


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## tdipaul (Jul 11, 2015)

.

This chute control is one of the worst designs in all of snowblowing, if not in all of the OPE world. Sketchy on the showroom floor and cant imagine it gets better with use. Hard to believe its still around. 

.


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

FWIW, I considered a new Cub at one point, and as a previous poster mentioned, it is best to setup and/or adjust the chute control at home. I did just that to a neighbor's a few years back and it is not bad. Being made by MTD isn't necessarily a disqualifier, but the only thing that changed my mind about getting one is that there is no fuel shut-off valve and no provision or real estate for installing one. To me, this is unacceptable and a justifiable reason why MTD gets criticized on this forum.


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## Greg13 (Nov 25, 2018)

Bought one at an auction a few months ago to use with my power shift since it's lighter and easier to maneuver. The thing that is odd to me is that the wheel/auger controls are backwards from most other blowers. But since I bought 4 blowers and 3 mowers for $160 I will deal with it.


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## 88-tek (Nov 5, 2017)

lbt12 said:


> My chute freely moves left to right and back. It will not stay in left or center position. What mechanisnism controls this?


Look on or underneath the Control chute gear located on the back of the chute. There should be some sort of adjustment spring with a bolt or something similiar. 

Check your owner's manual also, there should be a section for adjustment. :smile2:


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## Rangerhgm (Oct 13, 2014)

I've got a 2015 Cub Cadet 2X 524 SWE and I like the way the chute works.....no problems so far


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

On my crank model there is a spring washer and nut you tighten up for friction adjustment to keep the chute in place.. It's the Craftsman version.. just follow the rod to the very end of the chute... 9/16 socket. 

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

You don't want it any tighter than it needs to be.. just enough to hold it it place.
You will feel resistance at the control when it starts compressing the spring behind the nut.









Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

I see yours doesn't have that nut visable.. maybe it's under the cover?









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## Beagles20 (Feb 3, 2021)

Shovel said:


> I see yours doesn't have that nut visable.. maybe it's under the cover?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hello, I have been having the same problem with my chute moving while in use. I also do not have an exposed nut as shown in the picture above. Have you figured out how to fix it? Very frustrating!


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Beagles20 said:


> Hello, I have been having the same problem with my chute moving while in use. I also do not have an exposed nut as shown in the picture above. Have you figured out how to fix it? Very frustrating!


No..My machine has the nut.
Is yours jumping teeth?

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## Beagles20 (Feb 3, 2021)

Shovel said:


> No..My machine has the nut.
> Is yours jumping teeth?
> 
> Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


Honestly, I don’t know. When I pull the trigger on the joystick it doesn’t feel like it does anything. The trigger feels very stiff and it difficult to squeeze. It never feels like it locks in. I never pull the trigger to swing the chute either way. Is there something under the joystick that is suppose to lock into position? I see teeth through a narrow gap but I don’t see anything that looks like it would lock it into position. I do have something that looks like a nut (not like yours though) under the cover where yours is located, but the nut looking thing is recessed inside of metal on three sides so it can’t be turned. I read the directions and it mentions the nut.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Beagles20 said:


> Honestly, I don’t know. When I pull the trigger on the joystick it doesn’t feel like it does anything. The trigger feels very stiff and it difficult to squeeze. It never feels like it locks in. I never pull the trigger to swing the chute either way. Is there something under the joystick that is suppose to lock into position? I see teeth through a narrow gap but I don’t see anything that looks like it would lock it into position. I do have something that looks like a nut (not like yours though) under the cover where yours is located, but the nut looking thing is recessed inside of metal on three sides so it can’t be turned. I read the directions and it mentions the nut.


Is it moving the shaft that goes to the chute.
In other words...does the chute work..but just won't stay in position. 
I don't have access to that machine..but there should be a locking mechanism at the joy stick..it appears as if you trigger release is either stuck..broken or similar. 


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## Beagles20 (Feb 3, 2021)

Shovel said:


> Is it moving the shaft that goes to the chute.
> In other words...does the chute work..but just won't stay in position.
> I don't have access to that machine..but there should be a locking mechanism at the joy stick..it appears as if you trigger release is either stuck..broken or similar.
> 
> ...


First off, thank you for responding. Much appreciated! Yes, the chute turns when using the joystick and the long rod spins between the control panel and the chute control box. Like I said, the trigger is very difficult to push in. I can see below gears below the joystick moving when I move the joystick, but I can not tell if there is a locking mechanism or not because of the white grease they have put in there. I don't completlely understand how it all works to figure out the issue (locking mechanism in the control panel below the joystick, something in the chute control box, etc.).


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Beagles20 said:


> First off, thank you for responding. Much appreciated! Yes, the chute turns when using the joystick and the long rod spins between the control panel and the chute control box. Like I said, the trigger is very difficult to push in. I can see below gears below the joystick moving when I move the joystick, but I can not tell if there is a locking mechanism or not because of the white grease they have put in there. I don't completlely understand how it all works to figure out the issue (locking mechanism in the control panel below the joystick, something in the chute control box, etc.).


More than likely there is a piece that goes up against the gear which has teeth like a gear..it will engage the gear to lock it.
Follow the cable from the trigger..it also may be a rod...There will be a pawl that engages a gear to prevent it from moving 

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## Beagles20 (Feb 3, 2021)

Shovel said:


> More than likely there is a piece that goes up against the gear which has teeth like a gear..it will engage the gear to lock it.
> Follow the cable from the trigger..it also may be a rod...There will be a pawl that engages a gear to prevent it from moving
> 
> Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


I assume you are meaning between the joystick and underneath of the control panel when you say gears and not out by the chute control box.


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## Beagles20 (Feb 3, 2021)

Shovel said:


> More than likely there is a piece that goes up against the gear which has teeth like a gear..it will engage the gear to lock it.
> Follow the cable from the trigger..it also may be a rod...There will be a pawl that engages a gear to prevent it from moving
> 
> Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


Hello,

I played around with it again today and finally figured out what was going on. I removed the joystick (plastic cover and button) and pulled it off the metal bar that controls the chute. Once I had it off, I tried turning the chute and it wouldn’t turn, which I thought was strange. I ran down the wire that controls the chute from side to side and realized the cable that enters the chute control head was pulled out about an inch or so. This cable has a connector piece that spreads at the end to keep it connected to the chute control head when inserted into the chute control head. I used a flathead screwdriver to compress the connector and slid it back into the chute control head. Now the chute actually locks into position and I have to push the red button in order to move the chute left or right. I believe what was going on inside the joystick is there wasn’t enough pressure from the cable that the locking mechanism was never engaged and it was as if I always had the trigger squeezed on the joystick. Now the locking mechanism only engages when I squeeze the trigger. I’m not sure if I pulled it out during assembly or if it came like that, but at least it’s fixed now.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Beagles20 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I played around with it again today and finally figured out what was going on. I removed the joystick (plastic cover and button) and pulled it off the metal bar that controls the chute. Once I had it off, I tried turning the chute and it wouldn’t turn, which I thought was strange. I ran down the wire that controls the chute from side to side and realized the cable that enters the chute control head was pulled out about an inch or so. This cable has a connector piece that spreads at the end to keep it connected to the chute control head when inserted into the chute control head. I used a flathead screwdriver to compress the connector and slid it back into the chute control head. Now the chute actually locks into position and I have to push the red button in order to move the chute left or right. I believe what was going on inside the joystick is there wasn’t enough pressure from the cable that the locking mechanism was never engaged and it was as if I always had the trigger squeezed on the joystick. Now the locking mechanism only engages when I squeeze the trigger. I’m not sure if I pulled it out during assembly or if it came like that, but at least it’s fixed now.


Awesome..no parts needed

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