# To Do / Wish List: 2013 HS1332TAS Mods and Upgrades



## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Looking around this place a lot over the past few weeks, and getting the fever to make some improvements to my three-year-old Honda.

It's currently bone-stock, except for drift cutters and a cab.

Here are my thoughts so far, *please add suggestions!*

Priority:
Clock
Tachometer
Hour Meter
Cut chute teeth (increase rotation)
Fix chute deflector leak
Housing extension
Replace stock light with LED
Additional LED work light(S)
Side/rear LED marker lights
Electric chute rotation
Electric chute deflector
Add battery and/or upsize coil
Add oversized skids to sides of housing

Optional:
Upgrade to HSS-style deflector (2-piece)
Hand Warmers
Thermometer

What am I forgetting?

Mike


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

- led light(s) on chute to see where you are putting snow ( actually just to illuminate the "plume" ! ), blue or red .
- not sure why, but a usb port for charging . 
- rear view mirrors if you blow snow roadside and across the road.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

mikeinri said:


> Looking around this place a lot over the past few weeks, and getting the fever to make some improvements to my three-year-old Honda.
> 
> It's currently bone-stock, except for drift cutters and a cab.
> 
> ...


This should fall on the optional category, but here is the list: 

*12V key on electric start
* Power steering
* Impeller kit
* Chute liner
* Auger housing liner
* Service side transmission and add grease fitting
* Grease fittings on augers and possibly impeller
* Gas shock assisted auger height adjustment conversion
* Tool box (for a few tools and extra shear pins)

:blowerhug:


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## SnowG (Dec 5, 2014)

I don't know why you'd motorize the deflector, the manual lever works fine. As for chute rotation, see this thread http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...0393-retrofit-powered-chute-older-models.html


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

I like the idea of the mirrors. You definitely can't hear cars coming, and during the day, you don't have the benefit of headlights coming from behind you.


These are interesting:

* 12V key on electric start: I already have a 120v electric starter, can't add a 12v, can I? If so, do you have a link for that?

* Power steering: OK, how? Link?

* Impeller kit: Thought about that, haven't really had problems, maybe I'll add that to the optional list.

* Chute liner: Why?

* Auger housing liner: Why/how?

* Service side transmission and add grease fitting: Not familiar with this, is there something I need to know about for this vintage and model?

* Grease fittings on augers and possibly impeller: Definitely, I missed that!

* Gas shock assisted auger height adjustment conversion: How? Link?

* Tool box (for a few tools and extra shear pins): I've been thinking about that too, not a bad idea.


As to why I'd motorize the deflector, why not? If I'm going to take the trouble to motorize the rotation, might as well go all in, right?


Keep the ideas coming!

Mike


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

mikeinri said:


> * 12V key on electric start: I already have a 120v electric starter, can't add a 12v, can I? If so, do you have a link for that?


Yes you can....  , you'll need to add a battery and perhaps upgrade your charging system besides wiring it. 
Electric Start Kit Starter Motor Flywheel Switch Honda GX240 8HP GX270 9HP New | eBay



mikeinri said:


> * Power steering: OK, how? Link?


Don't know how yet, but it will be a nice feature on a track unit.



mikeinri said:


> * Chute liner: Why?


Slightly better throwing distance, but more important: it will protect the chute and prevent it from clogging up. Canadian Yamahas have it.



mikeinri said:


> * Auger housing liner: Why/how?


It will protect the auger housing and prevent it from clogging up. Canadian Yamahas have it. Browse thru the forum, there are a few threads on it, but not a really succesful one yet but it will get you started (if you do it use a Self adhesive "plastic" liner that is 1/8-1/4" thick, that way you can fasten it to the impeller housing).



mikeinri said:


> * Service side transmission and add grease fitting: Not familiar with this, is there something I need to know about for this vintage and model?


 There is a pin there that breaks on ocassions. Browse thru this thread by JnC to see how to do it.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...servicing-right-hydrostatic-transmission.html



mikeinri said:


> * Gas shock assisted auger height adjustment conversion: How? Link?


 Honda HSS retofit...???



mikeinri said:


> As to why I'd motorize the deflector, why not? If I'm going to take the trouble to motorize the rotation, might as well go all in, right?


 I agree, then you can control both movements with a joystick switch.


_*Most of this upgrades will be optional*_, and you can do them in stages.

:blowerhug:


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

After doing some blowing over the past few storms, these ideas have popped into my head:

Extra weight up front, to keep it from climbing in deep, heavy stuff (sidewalks, EOD, etc.).

Here's one that isn't necessarily easy, but someone with an electronics background should be able to figure it out: Voice controls for the chute motors. While I only have the manual controls at the moment, adding motors would be really great if you could eliminate having to use switches (my hands are busy enough when turning the unit around, etc.).

Mike


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Hmm... Voice controls. shouldn't cost more than a couple of thousand, plus you need to find a place to install a computer, and power for it, the stator won't do. 

My son got a unit with motorized chute controls, and whoever designed it actually put them where you could reach them with your thumbs without having to release the grips. Hes only used it once so far this year, so how well these motors work over the long term, who knows.


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## SB83 (Dec 15, 2015)

skutflut said:


> My son got a unit with motorized chute controls, and whoever designed it actually put them where you could reach them with your thumbs without having to release the grips.


Can you tell me what kind of blower it is? I'm thinking of mounting parallel chute controls on my HSS and I'd like to see what kind of switches they used. My idea was to cut an inch off of the front of the grips and use a pair of momentary kill switches to control chute rotation. They make them for ATVs and they fit a standard 7/8" bar. I need something compact (1 1/4") to fit cleanly under the lever control.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

It a Briggs and Stratton machine, 29 inch. He bought it at lowes canada, The switches are both spring loaded rockers, about 2 inches long. Big enough that you can get then with a gloved thumb.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/snow-throwers/snow-throwers/169656301


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Video review of the fore mentioned machine, nifty controls I'd say


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

JnC, thanks for the video link!



skutflut said:


> Hmm... Voice controls. shouldn't cost more than a couple of thousand, plus you need to find a place to install a computer, and power for it, the stator won't do.
> 
> My son got a unit with motorized chute controls, and whoever designed it actually put them where you could reach them with your thumbs without having to release the grips. Hes only used it once so far this year, so how well these motors work over the long term, who knows.


Hey, I didn't say *I* could pioneer the voice controls, but I'm sure someone can. There's probably a way to utilize a smart phone to do this...

The switch location on the Briggs is genious. Until I saw the video close-up, I was wondering about converting over an ATV grip/controls, but adding a bracket near the stock handle is so much easier!!!

The Briggs looks to be using a marine-style switch, which is my preferred choice for outdoor equipment. They're expensive, but those cheap toggles suck. Hard to use small switches when wearing gloves, and they seem to wear out quickly.

Mike


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Does anyone have a recommended front weight kit for these?


Looking back at a prior post here:

"Extra weight up front, to keep it from climbing in deep, heavy stuff (sidewalks, EOD, etc.)."

I got clobbered yesterday. Over two feet of some of the heaviest, wettest snow I've ever seen. After a while, the blower refused to work through the snow, it just kept climbing over the top of it.

I did notice that the augers were fully blocked up with snow, so I don't think they were really moving much, except with the teeth. Clearing them was futile, the snow was so wet, they just kept getting blocked up. Any ideas to fix this problem?

Help!!!!!

Mike


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Never heard of anyone adding weight to the front of a track Honda. 

If the augers turned into a barrel of snow then that’s definitely why it was riding up over the snow. Even spraying the augers with a hydrophobic coating would only last so long. Rough snow conditions.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

mikeinri said:


> Looking around this place a lot over the past few weeks, and getting the fever to make some improvements to my three-year-old Honda.
> 
> It's currently bone-stock, except for drift cutters and a cab.
> 
> ...


dual coolers for both sides to hold the beer.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> dual coolers for both sides to hold the beer.


And a gimble mount marine grade cup holder.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

vmax29 said:


> And a gimble mount marine grade cup holder.


ebay or amz?

seriously, the only upgrades i do for my honda is this penguin.

getting mine just to operate as it should is a constant struggle. once i climb that hurdle i was thinking about a housing extender , heated gloves , and a brighter lamp. I do wear ear protection but that's not part of the blower.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

vmax29 said:


> And a gimble mount marine grade cup holder.


Ha! Sean that's a great one! 

And for those that have the shakiest of rides, I recommend a Kenyon gyro. We've used them for years on photo boats and helicopters for recreational marine photo shoots (Four Winns and Crownline Boats)...they ought to work on our blowers in the most hazardous of conditions.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Well, I'm really looking for a weight kit option, they have them for other manufacturers' machines.


But, another important upgrade would be for the "clearing" tool. Why is the Honda tool blunt on both ends? My Dad has a Cub Cadet, and its onboard tool has a shovel tip on one end. The Honda tool is useless for clearing the chute or augers, I always have to go get a snow brush, and use the ice scraper side, to clear the clogs (blunt ends don't do anything to break up clogged chutes or augers)...


Mike


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

An impeller kit is the most useful tool for clogs. Prevent them and never have to clear one.

Bucket weights are primarily used for wheel machines. Honda track models lock keeping the bucket from pivoting up. 

But there’s no harm in adding weights if you’d like. Though it won’t make the snow stick less to the auger. Rough snow conditions.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Adding a weight kit to the auger housing would also throw the balance of the blower and you’ll always have to be pushing down on the handles to keep the bucket up (unless you counter weight the tractor as well).

I agree with an impeller kit installation to help prevent clogs.


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

Don't know why you'd add weight to the front. Can't you stance it such that the tracks are on their "heels" and the bucket is tipped down for conditions that are prone to cause ride up? It's usually only the EOD that will ever cause ride up, and what I do then is my driveway is on a slight decline so I will just drive down the driveway at the eod instead of up. Working with gravity really helps keep it planted. That's just for doing the eod, for the rest there is never any issues with coming back up.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

mikeinri said:


> Well, I'm really looking for a weight kit option, they have them for other manufacturers' machines.
> 
> 
> But, another important upgrade would be for the "clearing" tool. Why is the Honda tool blunt on both ends? My Dad has a Cub Cadet, and its onboard tool has a shovel tip on one end. The Honda tool is useless for clearing the chute or augers, I always have to go get a snow brush, and use the ice scraper side, to clear the clogs (blunt ends don't do anything to break up clogged chutes or augers)...
> ...


Amazon has that tool for $16.99. It would be a good upgrade. I think it is standard for Arien blowers.


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

Admittedly I have seen my HSS724ATCD tracked model pivot upwards and had to backtrack to blow the guilty snow. But what I have noticed is that this only occurs on uneven pavement/sidewalks I am going too fast on. This causes the scrapper bar to bounce up and down, missing the snow. After backing up and SLOWING down on the next approach, I've had no problems. In other words, I just modified my technique slightly.

The idea of a weight kit seems counterintuitive as I would think the momentum in the scenario I describe would work against you.

Having said this I also have to say I am so distracted by the cup holder option I am tempted to like everything in the post for this reason only.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Trust me, I fought with it for over an hour and tried every technique mentioned here. Bucket up, down and centered. Slow, fast and in between. I tried coming at it from multiple angles. 

I tried to go forward with it clearing just the top half, in hopes of just having to back up and do the bottom half, but after a while, it rode up and over without taking off the top half.

I think the problem (as mentioned above) was the depth of the snow, and its density and water content. Once the augers plugged up, nothing was moving.

An impeller kit wouldn't have solved this (it only plugged once), I really think that the machine wasn't able to get the snow to the impeller.

I'd really like to experiment with weights, especially something along the lines of suitcase weights which can be added and removed quickly, but something that attaches securely enough not to fall into the augers.

Maybe I need to invent something...

Mike


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Do you have side skids? If so they may be contributing to the issue....

You can add weight to the auger housing but I think you'll need to counter weight the tractor as well if you do that.


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

mikeinri said:


> Trust me, I fought with it for over an hour and tried every technique mentioned here. Bucket up, down and centered. Slow, fast and in between. I tried coming at it from multiple angles.
> 
> I tried to go forward with it clearing just the top half, in hopes of just having to back up and do the bottom half, but after a while, it rode up and over without taking off the top half.


This is most likely a rare occurrence depending on the type of snow, the temperature fluctuations and how long it's been sitting. Some weights strapped on temporarily under those circumstances should help, but I wouldn't leave them on all the time.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Like I said, I'm definitely leaning towards something removable (aka suitcase weights), especially as I experiment.

No side skids up to now, but might want them if I add weight.

It's definitely not OK to just leave it up to the mercy of the snow gods to never bury me with deep wet snow again. I need the machine to me able to handle it.

I'm not worried about the balance, I can always push down on the bars. I do have a cab on the machine, and have read some threads about other machines where people have said that weight up front is needed if you have a cab.

I've owned this machine for just over five years, and it's handled everything that we get up here until this storm. It's stored in an unheated shed, so the augers shouldn't have been warmed up.

Mike


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

I'm assuming all is OK with the scraper bar? Please share your findings if you go down this path Mike.


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

mikeinri said:


> I've owned this machine for just over five years, and it's handled everything that we get up here until this storm.
> 
> Mike


Exactly! So it's rare as I said. Why worry about it? 

In storms where the temp is barely at the freezing point(or fluctuating above and below), you want to get out there as soon as possible to prevent this type of occurrence. The longer it sits, the more the base layer will harden. Then it doesn't matter how much weight you strap on!

I live in an area where most of our heavy snowfall is immediately followed by rain, never mind the weights. It's all up to your timing(when you clear it) in these situations. Get out there asap!


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

mikeinri said:


> Looking around this place a lot over the past few weeks, and getting the fever to make some improvements to my three-year-old Honda.
> 
> It's currently bone-stock, except for drift cutters and a cab.
> 
> ...


Mike, an Impeller Kit! Because even if your snow blower is good.., it can be better!!!!!!:wink2:


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Marlow said:


> Exactly! So it's rare as I said. Why worry about it?
> 
> In storms where the temp is barely at the freezing point(or fluctuating above and below), you want to get out there as soon as possible to prevent this type of occurrence. The longer it sits, the more the base layer will harden. Then it doesn't matter how much weight you strap on!
> 
> I live in an area where most of our heavy snowfall is immediately followed by rain, never mind the weights. It's all up to your timing(when you clear it) in these situations. Get out there asap!



Come on, we all know that this isn't always possible.

I'm not badmouthing the machine (quite the contrary, it's hands-down the best blower I've ever owned or used, in countless ways), just looking for an improvement here.

Mike


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## Freddy Ford (Jan 30, 2018)

Weight added to a tracked snowblower? WEIRD. Try an Ariens wheeled machine if you want to experience bucket floating even with added weight, no machine is as horrible. Something is wrong if you're adding weight to a tracked unit where the bucket is locked in place unlike a wheeled machine. Coming from 2 Ariens that suffered non-stop bucket floating, the Honda is an absolute dream in all conditions. After a couple hours with the machine I have no fatigue at all, where the Ariens would wipe me out fighting the bucket.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Here’s a thought. So the actual issue was the barrel of snow that formed on the auger. How about UHMW tape. It’s available in 3 mil 5mil 7 mil... wrap the augers center tube and see if that alleviates the “barrel” next time you get super sticky snow. 

Just crazy enough to work.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

I haven't updated this thread in a while... My machine is still stock, still runs great and throws snow well.

I've used the blower twice this winter. Both times, I have noticed a terrible, intermittent metallic screeching noise from the unit. I know it's not the engine (only happens when it's moving). I haven't been able to pinpoint the source, or if it's coming from the drive mechanism or the augers.

Are there any known problems with such a noise as the symptom?

Mike


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Another year, and the machine is still stock! Hard to believe this is the start of Season 10 for this blower. Still starts on 1.5 pulls and runs flawlessly...

We got our first "plowable" storm yesterday, 9-10 inches. It was very light and fluffy, but compacted a little when the sun got to it for a few hours before I was done working and able to go out and clean up.

It still has the same two issues I noticed over the past year or more. Unknown/occasional screeching, and the snow buildup on the main auger blades and shaft.

As I was running the blower and doing mental math on how many years I've been using this (purchased new during the early hours of a blizzard in February 2013), I remembered my Dad's reaction when I told him about buying it (and how much it cost at the time). His reaction: "That thing better last at least 10 years to pay for itself!!!"

(Keep in mind, his income level was different than mine, and he'd suffered through owning a few cheaper machines over the years, all bought new but dramatically undersized for the snow we get around here. Of course, the last time I ran his blower, I noticed that one of the shear pins was gone, and the engine was in dire need of carb cleaning, so some of that was self-inflicted.)

Anyway, we're there (at year 10)! So now, looking back through this thread for things I wish this blower had compared to the new ones, I'm thinking about just upgrading to a new HSS.

Not immediately, or course. Maybe next year, LOL...

Mike


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Good to see you Mike, and all the best for this New Year. 🍻


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Thanks! Good to be back (I think, but my back isn't loving it this morning, LOL)...

Happy New Year to you as well!

Mike


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Hey guys,

I still have this old beast, still all stock. Thinking about upgrading to a new HSS unit.

No snow (yet) this year.

If I do keep this, I'd add a Drainzit to the list. But, I don't know which one to buy. The Drainzit site lists two for this model:

*Honda GX 390* - Model You Should Use: 1012 (1/4" Hose) 1412 (3/8" hose)

Which is the right one (and why)?

EDIT: Are bucket extenders available anywhere for this model?

Thanks.

Mike


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Ahh, even though I upgraded to the HSS last year I still miss my HS . Here it is with all the mods I did to it once I bought it. If you are tall then you will love the taller handlebars as even the revised handle bars on the HS seem lower than the ones on the HSS. Creature comforts are nice, I'd say if you want to upgrade then now is the time, I am not sure where you are located but here in the MA/NH area your machine if in good condition can sell anywhere form 2500~3000. I have seen a few of the new ones listed for sale on CL and FB ranging from 2800~4000. If you time it right you can upgrade without having to shell out any extra cash.

Drainzit.
Bucket extension
Painted sprockets 
HD honda skids.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JnC said:


> Ahh, even though I upgraded to the HSS last year I still miss my HS . Here it is with all the mods I did to it once I bought it. If you are tall then you will love the taller handlebars as even the revised handle bars on the HS seem lower than the ones on the HSS. Creature comforts are nice, I'd say if you want to upgrade then now is the time, I am not sure where you are located but here in the MA/NH area your machine if in good condition can sell anywhere form 2500~3000. I have seen a few of the new ones listed for sale on CL and FB ranging from 2800~4000. If you time it right you can upgrade without having to shell out any extra cash.
> 
> Drainzit.
> Bucket extension
> ...



Hey JnC

Hope you are well. Thanks for joining my group and your helping hand . Yes, I have heard from several people who regret selling their old HS models and buying new machines. The majority are snow removal guys with businesses so these machines see a lot of action. Their main complaint is that the new machines are in the shop more than they are working and the old HS machines are sturdier. I have sold several 1132's to these guys . ( I never come across a HS1332 ). 

I do the zerk upgrade on every machine now as well as LED light, rubber grommet for chuter, impeller kit,side skids , and several others. It's routine now on every machine that passes thru my hands.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Thanks guys. I bought my HS1332TAS in February 2013 (the morning of the start of a blizzard). It's been through a LOT of snow, and some gravel, but all just at my house. No hour meter, so I couldn't guess how many actual hours, but I am frequently running it for 2-4 hours when the snow is deep enough (suburb of Worcester, MA, we get snow measured in feet on occasion).

Anyway, it's stored indoors and not abused. I've only had to use the electric starter once in all those years (I probably flooded the engine, and got tired of pulling). Always runs perfectly. 

Here's some pics of the unit.

Mike























I hate when this happens...










Mike


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

The HS is more dependable, no doubt.

When the new HSS first came out I told myself I'll never get one due to the Hydro-gear HST in it but that fear/reservation has been eliminated, especially after the TSB on adding HST fluid reservoir.
I have a few HS HSTs with me and earlier this year I bought an HSS928ATD as a project machine, it'll get the complete overhaul and while in there I'll see if the HS HST can be engineered/retrofitted in there, I know I might loose the trigger control for ease in turning but a small price to pay for the upgrade. With the HS HST in there I feel like the HSS series is the perfect machine.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Hey, we are somewhat neighbors then, I have businesses in Bedford and Acton but I live up in Nashua, NH. 

Mike, since your machine is broken in well already I would recommend throwing in a #110 jet in the carb and you NEED side skid shoes, like yesterday on that machine to save those augers from wear, along with any wear to the side of the bucket.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Is this worth $3k as-is (or with some paint)?

Mike


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

What (specifically if possible) is the reason the HSS models are less reliable?

Mike


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Your machine, if tuned up a bit can get you at least $2500~$3k, especially with the cab and the fact that you are the original owner. A lick of paint wont hurt either on those augers. Your auger serrations are bent and a bit worn due to lack of side mounted skid shoes, they'd need to be straightened, new skid shoes would help on the sides.

The electric joy stick is an issue but can be rectified if you open the joystick and clean the internals and throw on some dielectric grease.
The hydro reliability was questioned a lot in the beginning and those questions got louder when some folks had their machine slowing down to a crawl after 15 minutes of usage. That issue was rectified with Honda issuing a TSB to get some units installed with HST fluid reservoir.
Quality of fit and finish has been questioned a bit due to the buckets being slightly off.
Lowered performance complaints got solved with owners re-jetting the carbs to OE #110 jet.

I wouldnt call the HSS unreliable, its just less reliable than the HS because at its core the HS is very rudimentary. The GX motors are bulletproof and so are the HST transmissions. When you add the creature comforts to the HSS series like the remote chute control etc you add chances of stuff breaking down.

I know a contractor out in western mass that has 4 HSS1332 used to clean the side walks in town. Each machine has close to 500 hours on it, couple of them have had their buckets and augers replaced already due to wear (operator error as he has young employees operating them not caring for augers hitting the pavement etc). His only complaint was the joystick breaking down every few years. His remedy is to have a spare for each machine just in case.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

EXCELLENT information, thank you!

Mike


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

The tricky part would be finding an HSS1332. I wouldn't want to sell this until I have a new one lined up!

Even if I could find a dealer to take it in trade, I'd probably take a bath on that deal, right?

Mike


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

You would have WAY better luck selling it yourself and to make matters interesting right now is the best time to sell your machine. All I am seeing is people asking 3500 plus for a barely used HSS1332ATD, you are saving a few hundred off of retail but still not something I'd go through all the hassle for, in my opinion spend the time this year to spruce up your machine and do the upgrades to get it ready for next seasons sale.

During this season keep your eye out for a good deal, most great deals are usually off season but some times a great deal also comes through in the middle of the season, if you are upgrading then make sure to upgrade to the ATD, the added features a well worth the extra couple of $100s.

In the meantime I'd suggest adding the side skid shoes to your machine and the bucket extension if you want. There is a guy on facebook who has a couple for sale $150 a piece.

In the off season I'd disassemble the front augers, fix the bent serrations, paint them etc. While at it I'd check the belts and change the impeller bearing.






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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Thanks, @JnC! 

When you say "fix the bent serrations" on the augers, is there a good guide or procedure?

Do I need to use heat? Avoid heat?

How much do they need to be bent?

I don't have a good one sitting here as a guide to follow.

I'd hate to think about the replacement cost for those.

Mike


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## Howie A B (12 mo ago)

mikeinri said:


> Looking around this place a lot over the past few weeks, and getting the fever to make some improvements to my three-year-old Honda.
> 
> It's currently bone-stock, except for drift cutters and a cab.
> 
> ...


This applies to the newer ones with electric chute controls already in place
Add a few more HP (at least to the 928)
Make the handle bars and controls a few inches higher or at least make it so you can adjust it higher for us tall guys
Make joy stick work like many car windows, click it to the left and release, so you don't have to keep your hand on it to reach max rotation


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