# Ariens...SO disappointed...11/24: It's alive!



## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

I've had a snowblower for 12 years. I bought it 2nd hand. It was kind of small, but it did the job. My problem w/it was that it didn't have a reverse (20" model) and my hip has gone bad (got a brand spankin' new one this August...) 
For Christmas last year my wife bought me an Ariens 920025. I was SO excited!
Put in the gas (hi-test w/ stabilizer), and fired it up. 
It wasn't doing a great job, but it's an Ariens! I locked up both wheels b/c it was getting caught up in some drifts (I'm in Canada). Still, that little 20" MTD grabbed and flung the snow better w/ an engine half the size. 
My neighbor came over (this is the FIRST time I used it) and told me that only one side of the auger was turning.
???
Looked at it, and saw that there was no shear bolt. Luckily Ariens sent spares.
BUT
No shear bolt was installed at the factory. 
I threw in one of the spares, and voila, we're blowin' snow....
NOTE: I sent Ariens and email about this and got NO response. Oh boy; not good. 
THIS YEAR...
(Please note I stored it the same way I had stored the previous one: just parked it)
Now it's not starting. At all. Crank- nada; electric start, nope.
When I went to check the spark plug, and saw oil dripping out the exhaust port. 
OH MAN...
Does anyone here? ANYONE have any idea? I think I got a lemon, and it's 53 weeks old. I'm shafted, aren't I?


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

> (Please note I stored it the same way I had stored the previous one: just parked it)


So.... Did this machine sit for months unused, maybe from April 2022 to November 2022? Did you leave gasoline in it? It sounds like you have gummed up gasoline in your carburetor.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

db130 said:


> So.... Did this machine sit for months unused, maybe from April 2022 to November 2022? Did you leave gasoline in it? It sounds like you have gummed up gasoline in your carburetor.


Thank you SO much for responding so quickly. 
Yeah, I did. I never had any problems w/ the other machine (much smaller engine- 5 hp v 9) and I thought it would be no problem. Used hi-test gas w/ fuel stablilzer. 
Am I wrong to have expected and Ariens product to perform as well as the Chinese one? 
Anyway...so I should clean the carb out? I'm not afraid to tackle the job; I think there's enought YouTube vids etc to guide me thru. 
Looking @ your time here, you got any tips?
Again, thanks.
Jim


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

It depends. Ours has a 3 yr warranty. If you have that, take it back, they should fix it.

If you are mechanically inclined, and don't mind doing some work, look at it as an opportunity to make it better. I put a HF 459cc max performance on our 2007. The YouTube video by Red Beards Garage is the reason I bought it. He took a brand new 459 & completely tore it apart. It seems VERY HD. It is a friggin BEAST now. I just used it to blow 8-10" of wet, heavy Buffalo lake effect snow and it worked WAY BETTER than the stock one did when it was brand new ! I used to have to go about a foot in the deep heavy stuff, then wait for it to clear itself, then go forward again. Not anymore. This thing just eats it up & it will now blow it across the street with ease, from halfway down my driveway ! It was a total success and I am loving it again. So glad I didn't get rid of it. 

But last year I also bought a brand new 28" Pro. It is now our backup snowblower. When we get hammered with snow it is totally reassuring that we have a brand new back up. It does not have the power or distance that the old repowered one has now, not even close. But it is brand new and is a excellent, reliable back up.

Hope you get this sorted out, it's go time for snowblowers now. I did the swap over the summer at my leisure. So much less stressful when you don't have to fix it immediately & you are not freezing trying to do it. Keep us posted please.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Most of the OHV engines on snowblowers use a Honda-style carburetor with a 10mm bolt holding the carb bowl. Yes, there must be hundreds of carb clean videos on youtube.

I don't know if yours has a fuel shutoff valve or not, but if it does, close the fuel valve before attempting to disassemble the carburetor. If not, have a suitable container to catch the dripping fuel when you undo that 10mm bolt.

Do this in a well-ventilated area or outside.






If you happen to have a can of carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner, that would be ideal. A small metal wire (from a twist-tie or a metal brush) would also be useful to have to clean the main jet and/or the emulsion tube.


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## KJSeller (Nov 3, 2021)

Does the carb have a drain in it and do you have a fuel shutoff? Turn off the fuel and drain the carb if possible.

You can try spraying some carb cleaner into the carb throttle plate when it's open using the choke. I did this trick to get my Toro started a few weeks back. I used stabilizer as well but left the fuel in. 
Check out these videos.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

2AriensGuy said:


> It depends. Ours has a 3 yr warranty. If you have that, take it back, they should fix it.
> 
> If you are mechanically inclined, and don't mind doing some work, look at it as an opportunity to make it better. I put a HF 459cc max performance on our 2007. The YouTube video by Red Beards Garage is the reason I bought it. He took a brand new 459 & completely tore it apart. It seems VERY HD. It is a friggin BEAST now. I just used it to blow 8-10" of wet, heavy Buffalo lake effect snow and it worked WAY BETTER than the stock one did when it was brand new ! I used to have to go about a foot in the deep heavy stuff, then wait for it to clear itself, then go forward again. Not anymore. This thing just eats it up & it will now blow it across the street with ease, from halfway down my driveway ! It was a total success and I am loving it again. So glad I didn't get rid of it.
> Keep us posted please.


Yeah, I'm catty corner from you on the Great Lakes: Kingston, ON. And yeah, I kind of feel like a tool for not stowing it properly or running it during the summer. In my defense, I never did that w/ my prior blower (MTD 380 20", built in '04) and ass-u-me-d that it would be no problem. Why? B/c it's a X*&%! Ariens! LOL We only got hit w/ 5" or so of snow, so I guess I'm lucky.

I consider myself handy, but I think I hit a wall regarding the upgrade you described. Why? 
Glad you asked! LOL
B/c I don't have any idea what an HF 459cc max performance is. I ((Think)) you're describing an engine, but...if you are, then you'd be telling me how much stronger the Force is w/ you, Obi-wan. No. Freaking. Way. Would I take on a job like that. 

Anywhoo... the other poster (I'll be thanking him later) posted a vid on carb cleaning that I was already watching when I jumped back to see what other wisdom I could gain from the crowd here. 

I was SOOO FREAKING PUMPED last year when I saw the delivery guy lower an Ariens off their truck. Now? 
After that episode w/ the shear bolt not being installed at the factory, and now this...sigh
(It's not so much that someone made a boo-boo at the factory; hey, stuff happens, man. It's how I got NO response from them when I emailed them. I've gotten better replies for mess ups from much smaller companies. Then this? Crap)

I will post when I finish up. 
Fingers crossed.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

KJSeller said:


> Does the carb have a drain in it and do you have a fuel shutoff? Turn off the fuel and drain the carb if possible.
> 
> You can try spraying some carb cleaner into the carb throttle plate when it's open using the choke. I did this trick to get my Toro started a few weeks back. I used stabilizer as well but left the fuel in.
> Check out these videos.


Ohkaaaayyy... I'm going to give the spray stuff a shot before taking on the carb job. Fingers crossed.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

@Jim_M58, some thoughts... Checking the shear bolts is a "before every use" thing and also could have broken early in your first use. Putting the machine away for the year in the new era of sketchy fuel is also covered in the manual. I don't think you should be blaming the machine. Please start by taking a few minutes to re-read your manuals and I think you'll have a happier experience with your Ariens going forward.

You can download digital copies here: Operator's Manuals - Ariens


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Spend some time reading threads in this forum and you will likely see that some of your issues may be self-inflicted. Gotta say that it sounds like you might have broken the shear pin in the snow drift before your neighbor pointed out that one side wasn't rotating. I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to respond to a shear pin issue when it was doing what was supposed to do. The schmoo running out the exhaust is also not the manufactures fault. Trying to start a blower on dead fuel will result in that 95% of the time. Hang in there and we will attempt to help you clear these things up.


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Check your oil level. It sounds like maybe the fuel tank emptied into the crankcase through the carb. You don't want to get it started with a crankcase full of gasoline.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

What happened to you, no matter who is at fault, also can and does happen with other brands. 😎


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

Jim_M58 said:


> Thank you SO much for responding so quickly.
> Yeah, I did. I never had any problems w/ the other machine (much smaller engine- 5 hp v 9) and I thought it would be no problem. Used hi-test gas w/ fuel stablilzer.
> Am I wrong to have expected and Ariens product to perform as well as the Chinese one?
> Anyway...so I should clean the carb out? I'm not afraid to tackle the job; I think there's enought YouTube vids etc to guide me thru.
> ...


Watch this guy on Youtube......he goes into detail when cleaning and rebuilding carbs, gummed up fuel systems are the death of so many snow blowers, lawnmowers and the like. I personally only use fresh marine grade ethanol free gas, I use it before it gets old, and I always completely drain my gas tanks and carbs when I store them so that the fuel delivery system does not get all gummed up, also..... I have stopped using gas stabilizer, many may crucify me here for saying that but where I live I have easy access to Marine grade ethanol free gas.


https://www.youtube.com/@jcondon1


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## kozal01 (10 mo ago)

Have you checked the oil level?


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## KJSeller (Nov 3, 2021)

Just remember snow blowers requirement maintenance. Most of them are basic in design and you just need to do a few simple things to keep them going for a long time. Learn how to baby your machines and you'll be a happy camper. If you think you just need to gas and go and be problem free, then tell us what you're smoking 🤣🤣🤣 (just kidding). 

Shear pins are designed to prevent costly damage to your gear box. Get some extras and learn how to replace them before winter.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

As others have mentioned, read and follow the owners manual to prevent future issues.
Make sure you check the oil level, could have fuel in it.
Did you buy the machine from a dealer or big box store? Did you contact them regarding the "missing" shear bolt?
I think it probably could have sheared during your first use, but either way you are only out a couple bucks.
I think your new machine is the entry level Ariens Classic with the 208cc engine (approx. 6.5HP)? 
It is definitely a step up from your older machine both feature and quality wise. It will process more snow and toss it further, but don't expect that it will "blow the doors off" the old machine performance wise. You went from a 5 hp 20" machine to a 6.5HP 24" machine, pretty close to the same HP to bucket width ratio. 
Hope you get it sorted out and running well, we just got 12" of wet heavy snow and expect another 12" tomorrow through Sunday.


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## BazookaJoe (Oct 6, 2019)

The goo in the exhaust muffler is the unburned liquid (can't call it "fuel" after it was in the carb all summer) which has now been drawn thru the carb and then cycled thru the engine. 

Your problem with the starting is NOT an Ariens issue. Any other brand engine in similar circumstances would result in the exact same manner. 

A few four questions-
Does your Ariens' engine have fuel shut off valve? 
If so, was this turned to the "off" position over the summer?
Did your previous snowblower's engine have a fuel shut off valve?
If so, did you turn it off every year?

Reason that I ask all this, is because if the fuel was left on or, if there is no fuel shut off, here's what happens: Throughout the summer, the gasoline in the carb float bowl is evaporating off the light hydrocarbons. The carb then allows more fuel to enter the carb, and then the process continues. Eventually, you have a carb full of heavy hydrocarbons which will only burn in a camp fire. Winter gas has a lower vapor pressure and is much more likely to evaporate off than summer gas. 

Empty the carb bowl, drain all of the gas from the tank that you can, add fresh gas, and then fire it up. You may need to replace the spark plug. 

Hope all of this helps.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

"but it's an Ariens! I locked up both wheels b/c it was getting caught up in some drifts (I'm in Canada)" 

You probably lost shear bolt at this moment but who knows. Could have happened anywhere along the supply chain


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

I did not see it mentioned but did you smell the oil you found leaking into exhaust port? If it smells like gas than you got a carb clog and it backed up into your crankcase. Drain it or damage it ;-)


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

I got a free Compact 24 from some gals a couple of years abo and they said they hated the Ariens 24 and since I only had one in the past (ST-824) I took it when they tossed it on the curb because it looked like new. After I spent some time on it, the 24 ran so poorly and did not blow snow well like the OP said his does. Well it turned out no matter how I cleaned the carb this engine just wouldn't work so I bought a new carb off Amazon and we were off to the races. That blower really impressed me after getting it running right, so much so my Son now has it but has not used it in 2 years. Two weeks ago I fired it up on 2 year old gas, after 4 pulls it fired right off, why? because I only use non-oxy fuel in my engines. Clean the carb out and get some good gas in the new machine, it will blow snow.


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

I'm inclined to believe, like the others, that your problems may be self-inflicted. Please note I said "MAY". The carburetor jets on newer small engines are smaller than the old ones because the new ones have to run a much leaner mixture. You can thank the good folks at the EPA for that. A downside of course is that the jets clog more easily than the jets of old so this issue is not Ariens' fault, it is pretty much universal among all small engines now. (BTW, although I don't yet have a new hip I'm soon to be eligible to get one at age 72.)

Although you may get away with using fuel stabilizer over the summer, what I have been doing after a similar experience 30+ years ago after they started putting alcohol in fuel is during the off season I drain ALL fuel from the system, be it snow blower, lawn mower, leaf blower, whatever. I drain the tank, fuel lines, and carburetor bowl. Everything. And I haven't had a moment's fuel-related problem since I started that practice. I figure that's good because that's the way new equipment is shipped and it may sit on the shelf for years, then start right up when someone buys it and adds fuel.

Others swear by running all their engines every few months or using stabilizer. Hey, whatever works, works for them, so it's good. Draining the fuel works for me so that's what I stick with.

Regarding the presence or absence of the shear pin, we'll probably never know unless you find it in the spring when the snow melts. But I'd bet on it being there and it broke and no one noticed until your neighbor saw only one auger spinning. The same thing happened to me once too, only I did notice it wasn't throwing snow as well as usual. My current snow blower is an Ariens Deluxe 24 that is four years old and hasn't given me a moment's trouble.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

I deeply appreciate all of you taking the time to respond w/your thoughts and advice. I'll be replying to you individually later when this is cleared up. I'm worried that I either have a wayyy bigger problem than I thought, or worse that I'm wayyy dumberer than I thought.

1. The carburetor is pristine. I'm not talking in good shape, I'm talking it looks like it just came out of a box. (Pics of dismantled component attached. I examined it w/ a magnifying glass under a light and there's no debris nor residue to be seen on any of the ports (both the long brass doo-hickey and the red thingamajig) . The bowl and float look new as well.



















2. The exhaust port residue smells of oil, not unburned fuel.
Prior to starting it up, I did check the oil, and it showed about 1/2 up the dipstick.

Here's what I'm gonna do as I await your advice:
1. Put the carb back on (oh boy, this'll be fun)
2. Drain out the oil and the fuel tank. (I saw on a vid to check the oil drained to see if it separates into 2 layers. If there's something on top, that's gas, if the thin layer's on the bottom, that's water if I recall that vid correctly.

Right now I'm thinking that there's one of two possible things going on:
1. I'm a $%*& moron and there's something I missed in the start up process. Now this model does NOT have an on/off button, nor does it have a throttle control. Yes, the plastic key is fully inserted when I start it up. I'd be thrilled to find out that I'm the moron (I'll even surrender on the shear bolt issue!) if there's a step I missed, but my reading over and over THE OWNER'S MANUAL I can't see anything. (BTW my wife laughs at me when we get a new whatever, b/c before I do a damn thing I always review the manual. She sez I'm her 'manual man' ...lol)

2. If not that, uh-oh... I'm worried that there's a problem w/ the cylinder rings b/c of the oil in the exhaust. If that's the case... uh-oh.

I'll be on this until it's fixed. We got 5" last night (thank god it melted) but we're scheduled for a dump of up to 10" overnight and thru Sunday.
Again, thanks for your advice.


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

Please do follow up with what you find out, we all learn from those experiences. Even if I get some egg on my face...


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

WVguy said:


> Regarding the presence or absence of the shear pin, we'll probably never know unless you find it in the spring when the snow melts. But I'd bet on it being there and it broke and no one noticed until your neighbor saw only one auger spinning. The same thing happened to me once too, only I did notice it wasn't throwing snow as well as usual. My current snow blower is an Ariens Deluxe 24 that is four years old and hasn't given me a moment's trouble.


I don't think I emphasized that the poor blowing was right out of the crate, no lie. But really BFD; it came shipped w/ 2 spares, and I got it going in less than 1/2 an hour.

Egg on face? You kidding me? I'm the one looking at a 10" dump! LOL I'm perfectly willing to cop to screwing up (part of my charm) when I do, and I'm wayyy more concerned over the fact that I DON'T KNOW what the hell the problem is now.


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## michaelnel (Feb 12, 2019)

My Honda used to go through shear bolts like popcorn. 

Most of the time when they would break both parts would fall out leaving the hole empty. So discovering an auger not turning and no shear bolt around (it's probably back where you broke it) does not mean the factory failed to install it to begin with.


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## KJSeller (Nov 3, 2021)

I'm wondering if you should buy a replacement carb off Amazon? One of the adjustable types. Maybe that original carb has some defect with machining or one of the small jets is way to small. With all of the issues these days that wouldn't be a surprise. 

That may fix your issues. I bought carbs off Amazon.ca for $25 CDN. 

Something like this one on the link. The adjustable part is the main jet on the bottom. https://a.co/d/3XowvEv


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## 4getgto (Jul 20, 2020)

Jim_M58 said:


> I don't think I emphasized that the poor blowing was right out of the crate, no lie. But really BFD; it came shipped w/ 2 spares, and I got it going in less than 1/2 an hour.
> 
> Egg on face? You kidding me? I'm the one looking at a 10" dump! LOL I'm perfectly willing to cop to screwing up (part of my charm) when I do, and I'm wayyy more concerned over the fact that I DON'T KNOW what the hell the problem is now.


Not sure but I think you mentioned the oil was only half way up the dip stick. Could be something as simple as low oil. Won't start if there's not enough oil in it. Assuming it has a low oil sensor? Had it happen to me once .


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

That would be news to me, don't think it has an ecu for that. Oil level is fine. So you don't even here starter when you try the plug in way? You can hear it turnover when you press button? That's a whole other issue, did we miss that?


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

holy crap I can't spell


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

Jim_M58 said:


> I deeply appreciate all of you taking the time to respond w/your thoughts and advice. I'll be replying to you individually later when this is cleared up. I'm worried that I either have a wayyy bigger problem than I thought, or worse that I'm wayyy dumberer than I thought.
> 
> 1. The carburetor is pristine. I'm not talking in good shape, I'm talking it looks like it just came out of a box. (Pics of dismantled component attached. I examined it w/ a magnifying glass under a light and there's no debris nor residue to be seen on any of the ports (both the long brass doo-hickey and the red thingamajig) . The bowl and float look new as well.
> View attachment 202972
> ...


That's how my Compact 24 original carb was also everything was super clean, but no matter what it ran poorly until I replaced it with a new one, now it runs perfectly. Not sure what was plugged in it.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Auger1 said:


> That's how my Compact 24 original carb was also everything was super clean, but no matter what it ran poorly until I replaced it with a new one, now it runs perfectly. Not sure what was plugged in it.


Weird. Possibly manufacturing,defect? Someone pushed the wrong button, something internally slightly out of spec?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Op not sure where you are in kanuckastan, but in Manitoba high test isn’t,ethanol free anymore. Lct manual says longer than 30 day storage requires complete drain, and refill of ethanol free.

as for the shear pin, it’s super easy to not know you blew a pin. For what it’s worth my routine after clearing snow, and getting ready for the “next dump”:

thaw with construction heater. Then top up fuel, check auger for shear pin, turn off fuel, set choke, and high idle. (I’m dumb so less I have to do when starting the better). All I have to do is turn on, prime and start.

I also check the oil at this time. Should actually do this before starting but I figure if it’s checked and there’s no leaks should be good.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Okey dokey... Here's where I stand in Kingston, ON...
After I disassembled the carb I knocked off for the day. Today I did my driveway and sidewalk by hand. NBD: took about 40 mins. It's a pretty wide driveway, can easily hold 4 cars and I have a small-ish detached house built in the 50's. I USED to do about 3-4 neighbors b/c I really enjoy blowing snow. Childish? Yup.
Anyway... before I start to reinstall (after cleaning w/ carb cleaner and compressed air) the carb, I said to myself:
"Self? (that's what I say when I talk to myself...) "Mebbe it ain't gettin' enough gas? You smelled OIL but almost no gas from that **** in the exhaust pipe..."

So I skedaddled over to the blower and holding a glass jar turned the fuel control knob to 'On'.
It's coming out as a trickle. It's a 1/4-3/8 ID line (I think 1/4) but man, it's coming out thin. Now I don't know the internal configuration of the feul valve- is it a full gate or is it constricted within (anybody here know?)
Here's a pic of it coming out. I can do a vid w/ my handy dandy phone if necess, but I think you get the idea









I mean that's not much flow at all in my mind. Or is it? 
My question...should I pursue this further? Or is that the correct volume for the machine? My take is that's way too little flow, but I'm no mechanic (however my background is plumbing).
I'm going to skedaddle for carb cleaner and warm up my compressor. If anyone has any thoughts I'd appreciate them.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Gas cap may be blocking the flow. Otherwise it may be time for a flush


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

That gas draining from the fuel tube looks totally normal to me. Here is a video that also shows it:






Yes, it looks like maybe he didnt turn the fuel valve on "all the way", but I don't think that's a factor. That's just how fuel always looks when draining from those narrow tubes. The first time I tried it myself on my snowblower, I specifically thought "wow, that seems like a very tiny flow".. but that is actually normal! I think it's fine in your case.

Scot


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

sscotsman said:


> That gas draining from the fuel tube looks totally normal to me. Here is a video that also shows it:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's good enough for me. BACK TO CARB CITY! I just might replace the damn thing if this doesn't work.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Tony-chicago said:


> Gas cap may be blocking the flow. Otherwise it may be time for a flush


That's exactly what I was thinking. You might be onto something, but I'm going to go w/ the video in the answer below your post for now.


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## LenD (Nov 17, 2020)

Jim_M58 said:


> Yeah, I'm catty corner from you on the Great Lakes: Kingston, ON.


A little off topic: add Kingston, ONT to your profile. That way, you won't have to tell everyone over and over again where you are 

*Top right, click on avatar then Account Settings,
Then in Location field, your city.*


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## LenD (Nov 17, 2020)

Another mentioned about premium not being ethanol free.

AFAIK, the only ethanol-free premium is shell and canadian tire (and maybe Chevron but they are on the west coast). ALL others (including Esso) have it in their premium.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Sometimes the gas cap vent fails. That slows, and can stop the flow of gas. But you would have known that cause it would run for a while first.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

LenD said:


> A little off topic: add Kingston, ONT to your profile. That way, you won't have to tell everyone over and over again where you are
> 
> *Top right, click on avatar then Account Settings,
> Then in Location field, your city.*


Forgive me, but I don't talk to Blue Jays fans. They're but one step above Leafs fans, but w/ a lower tolerance of pain.
BWHAHAHAHAHA!
Thanks for the tip


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Jim_M58 said:


> 1. The carburetor is pristine. I'm not talking in good shape, I'm talking it looks like it just came out of a box. (Pics of dismantled component attached. I examined it w/ a magnifying glass under a light and there's no debris nor residue to be seen on any of the ports (both the long brass doo-hickey and the red thingamajig) . The bowl and float look new as well.
> View attachment 202972
> 
> 
> View attachment 202973


The jet passage most likely to clog is in the bottom of " the red thingamajig". It's pretty small.

Did you verify the float valve is passing fuel and isn't stuck?


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

cpchriste said:


> The jet passage most likely to clog is in the bottom of " the red thingamajig". It's pretty small.
> 
> Did you verify the float valve is passing fuel and isn't stuck?


I THINK so... I mean I dismantled the carb and the float does operate freely and has no holes in the float. It looks like its working fine. 
I'll ensure that the red thingamajig's hole is open. 
Hang on...








Do you mean the hole indicated above? Or is there another?


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Jim_M58 said:


> I THINK so... I mean I dismantled the carb and the float does operate freely and has no holes in the float. It looks like its working fine.
> I'll ensure that the red thingamajig's hole is open.
> Hang on...
> View attachment 203032
> ...


Another hole
In the bottom (as the pic is oriented) through a bit of brass embedded in the red plastic


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

The anticipation is killing me


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

cpchriste said:


> Another hole
> In the bottom (as the pic is oriented) through a bit of brass embedded in the red plastic


Super small hole, it would need a rather small mini drill bit.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*You know the strangest thing happened to me a few back with 'SR' I was blowing my neighbors drive way and was wondering how come he was not pitching real good. Turns out somehow he lost a grade 5 stainless steel bolt with a Nylock nut on it. And to this day I will never fathom how that could happen. Maybe it was a ghost, mice I don't know or ever will know.😱😱😱😱😱*


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

UNDERTAKER said:


> Turns out somehow he lost a grade 5 stainless steel bolt with a unlock nut on it.


It became a shear bolt...


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

tabora said:


> It became a shear bolt...


*Yeah Maybe All I Know IT Was Gone With The Schwinn.*


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## michaelnel (Feb 12, 2019)

db130 said:


> Super small hole, it would need a rather small mini drill bit.
> 
> Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk


Might be able to blow it out with compressed air.


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

The Oracle Reads Often that no shear bolts would have precluded your lifelong mystery but yet this grasshopper just procured an orange wilder beast so I digress. Holy crap Patriots win!


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

UNDERTAKER said:


> *You know the strangest thing happened to me a few back with 'SR' I was blowing my neighbors drive way and was wondering how come he was not pitching real good. Turns out somehow he lost a grade 5 stainless steel bolt with a Nylock nut on it. And to this day I will never fathom how that could happen. Maybe it was a ghost, mice I don't know or ever will know.😱😱😱😱😱*


What's 'SR' mean? I got the rest of the tale, but the SR's been eating at me. (That's right; I have no life, huh?  )


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Jim_M58 said:


> What's 'SR' mean? I got the rest of the tale, but the SR's been eating at me. (That's right; I have no life, huh?  )


Senior, vs Junior I think... Todd has two of different ages, AKA The BROTHERS OF DESTRUCTION.








EOD picture challenge. Anyone crush mine? Wet compact...


Just one of these moments with my incredible Simplicity Signature P1728EX. Went straight thru in second gear! This is when you know you got something special.




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Okay... here's the latest (it's about 6:45 EST here).
Last night I had cleaned the carb and poked thin wire through all the holes in the brass parts and also at the bottom of the red thingamajig.
I drained all the gas, and all the oil and replaced it with fresh. My understanding is that Canadian Tire Premium gas contains no ethanol. I've been using it for years on my power equipment (chain saw, weed eater, lawn mower and...sigh...my OLD snowblower that's doing fine at my daughter's home this winter...)

So w/ the carb cleaned up and all sparkly and fresh liquids, I started it up...
Oh boy...

Yes, it started right up. But...ah say BUT it ran like a fighter jet. It was night time, and there was even blue flame leaping out the exhaust. Despite being (in my own mind) better looking than Tom Cruise, I didn't think having an F-18 as a snowblower was a hot idea.

Sigh.
And rats.
It was getting a bit late (about 10'ish) and I shut it down.

I spent this AM watching vids and reading up.
- one video (Donyboy on YouTube) has a vid w/ this problem (on an Ariens, btw) and it turned out to be a busted 'governor gear' within the engine itself. He tore the engine down to find the problem. And that unit was just a year old if I recall correctly.
The vid: Snowblower revs out of control
Now I don't think (OK, I hope) that's what I'm dealing with. The initial problem centered on ignition due to bad gas and poor storage for this machine. I tried cleaning the carb, but I figure in the process I did something screwy hooking it back up.

Today I took the cowlings off and checked the carb and everything w/ the two linkages looks okay, but seriously-- I'm a rookie at this. I put it all back and it's doing it still. There's a black plastic screw at the top of the carb by that red plastic insert. I tried backing that screw in and out while the engine was running, but it didn't seem to have any effect.









_*Should it have had an effect? *_
So, my plan is to replace the carb (someone on this thread posted that it solved the problems for him). *My working theory is that I could have messed up the ports inside the carb cleaning them with that wire? Or I assembled the red insert (it's red on my carb, black in the above photo) that's BELOW that screw incorrectly? *
Am I on the right track?
I'm going to post this and see if I can find anything online regarding how the carb can govern the revving of the engine.
Fingers crossed and waiting you guyzez's replies.

Thanks for all your replies and the jokes too!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Jim_M58 said:


> What's 'SR' mean? I got the rest of the tale, but the SR's been eating at me. (That's right; I have no life, huh?  )


*'SR" Is A 1974 Old School TORO. 'JR' IS A 1993 POWERSHIFT. Otherwise Known As THE BROTHERS OF DESTRUCTION.














*


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

UNDERTAKER said:


> *'SR" Is A 1974 Old School TORO. 'JR' IS A 1993 POWERSHIFT. Otherwise Known As THE BROTHERS OF DESTRUCTION.*


That is a beast! Lookin' good at 48 years old bubba!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*If you do have a wonky Gov then you are going to have to open it up and replace it.*


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

tabora said:


> Senior, vs Junior I think... Todd has two of different ages, AKA The BROTHERS OF DESTRUCTION.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


When I read your reply I thought you meant HIS KIDS! LOLOL! Then I was trying to figure out what the hell does baseball have to do with blowing freaking snow??? (I read it as he was talking about his kid's pitching...)
Oh god...
I've been at this WAYYY too long!


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

UNDERTAKER said:


> *If you do have a wonky Gov then you are going to have to open it up and replace it.*


Yeah I think you're right if that IS the case...Yeah... great. 52 weeks old. No lie. It was delivered a year ago this past Thursday. 
I'm praying that it's the carb. Can ya blame me?


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

Omg what a hassle for you. My apologies the snowblower gods are not smiling down upon you. Internet search says adjust choke while running to richen mixture to see if you are running too lean. Or you can try this 









Backfire and flames from exhaust


I have an Ariens ST8 24. I just replaced the carburetor with a new non adjustable one that I purchased on ebay. It fired up and ran good. Then when after a bit I would try to move the throttle lever and nothing would happen to the snowblower. I just replaced the throttle lever assembly. ( i...




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Zilla said:


> Omg what a hassle for you. My apologies the snowblower gods are not smiling down upon you. Internet search says adjust choke while running to richen mixture to see if you are running too lean. Or you can try this
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This model doesnt have a throttle. 
Adjusting the choke...when it's running, I tried that, but it started backfiring & blowing black smoke (which I think is poorly ignited gas) 
I thought that the black screw in the pic adjusted the air/fuel mix, but it didn't seem to work. 
I'll be learning more about how these carbs work & how they're SUPPOSED to operated tomorrow.
DAY FREAKING FOUR...😨😭😨


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

That black screw does nothing more than hold the pilot jet in on any carb I have seen.

If you had the carb off it's likey a linkage problem.

As lean as the EPA forces these engines to run, I seriously doubt that any significant overspeed could be due to mixture, or even the carb for that matter.

If you move the throttle plate/linkage with your hand, will it slow down?, If so, the problem isn't the carb . . .


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

Blue flame is oxygen rich, and is a result of the fuel/air mixture not completing combustion until it passes through the exhaust. I think anyway lol. A spark plug issue could cause this. Are you at the point you voided the warranty and that's why you keep trying? Its fun for us to help but not sure how much you should endure...


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Jim_M58 said:


> This model doesnt have a throttle.
> Adjusting the choke...when it's running, I tried that, but it started backfiring & blowing black smoke (which I think is poorly ignited gas)
> I thought that the black screw in the pic adjusted the air/fuel mix, but it didn't seem to work.
> I'll be learning more about how these carbs work & how they're SUPPOSED to operated tomorrow.
> DAY FREAKING FOUR...😨😭😨


*Black Smoke Means It Is Running A Rich Mixture.*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*HAS IT GOT Fresh Oil In It Now???? The BLOODY SHEER PIN Issue Some One Might Just Have Put It On Finger Tight. If You Had Oil Coming Out The Exhaust Either The Carb Filled The Crank Case. or bad rings beside the other thing I Talked About Here..*


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

'Last night I had cleaned the carb and poked thin wife through all the holes...'
Another braggart! Gosh, there's a lot of that.
And this other fellow on this site who wants to date his snowblower!
Snowblowers, guys, someblowers!
Repairs, not relationships!


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Oh, so close but:

Snowblowers, guys, someblowers!
Repairs, not relationships!

Uh... 



Someblowers


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

I'll pump my blower full of fluids when I want Dr Phil


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Let's stay on track here y'all.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Watch the subconscious


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Took the day off (no snow for a week predicted). I'm going to fuss w/ the linkages on Tuesday. 
AAAaand probably be ordering a new carb on Wed...
I'm sure I'm missing _one tiny liddle thing_ in this repair at this stage.


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## Falstaff (Feb 17, 2021)

Wrong thread, disregard.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tadawson said:


> That black screw does nothing more than hold the pilot jet in on any carb I have seen.
> 
> If you had the carb off it's likey a linkage problem.
> 
> ...


The black plastic screw adjusts the idle speed.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

ChrisJ said:


> The black plastic screw adjusts the idle speed.


Are you sure about this??? B/c it's the 'idle' speed that's totally bonkers.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

UNDERTAKER said:


> *HAS IT GOT Fresh Oil In It Now???? The BLOODY SHEER PIN Issue Some One Might Just Have Put It On Finger Tight. If You Had Oil Coming Out The Exhaust Either The Carb Filled The Crank Case. or bad rings beside the other thing I Talked About Here..*


Yeah, I replaced the oil and checked the level carefully.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Idle mixture. Idle speed. Etc....


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

OK, I didn't touch that beast at all today. I had to catch up on other stuff, and it's still no snow for the week. I'll be checking in tomorrow. 
Now Falstaff said he admired my tenacity. I'm a thick-headed Irishman. Translate into 'too stupid to quit'! LOL 
More to come!


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

When you started to take the carb apart, did you screw the jet screws all the way in (until seated) counting the turns? After cleaning, did you screw said jets in to softly seated and then back them out to the original position? If not, you might have changed the settings. My Honda manual says to screw the pilot jet (idle jet) out 1.5 turns from seated, and then while the warmed engine is running, turn the black plastic jet screw in or out to the smoothest running position. Then stop and set high speed rpms w/ a tach.

If the machine is still under warranty, my vote would be to take advantage of that, get the machine running properly, and then maintain it regularly.


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## burt8810 (Nov 28, 2019)

It seems you may have a carb linkage problem. In operation there is usually a spring trying to open the carb valve and a link from the governor trying to close the valve. Under normal conditions , with full throttle, the 2 forces are equal and the engine runs at the "governed speed" usually about 3000-3600rpm. The faster the engine speed the greater the force trying to close the carb valve.
My first assumption would not be an internal governor problem. Since you have removed and re-installed the carb I would suspect a linkage and/or spring problem.
Did you take any pictures of the linkage before you started to remove the carb? If not I would start looking for pictures and/or illustrations of the carb linkage.
If this is indeed the problem it will surely be much simpler to fix than taking the engine apart.
Just my $0.02


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## firedudetl1 (Jan 26, 2016)

I've been absent from the site for quite a while and got back on it with this thread. At risk of insulting pretty much everyone on here, I'm with Wrenchit and wondering why this machine hasn't gone back to whoever sold it, warranty in hand and asking when the new machine will be delivered to replace this problem machine.
I understand offering advice on the various issues with this particular machine and all have merit, but.... man... I'd be at the door of the company that sold it to me
Sorry in advance if I offend/insult anyone 

to Jim M58, Good luck with the Ariens, I hope you resolve whatever the problem(s) is (are) 
I have a 68 Ariens as well as 2 from the 70s and 80s, I run the newer (lol) ones on 8-10 snowblowing sidewalk jobs each storm and rarely have any problems,


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

firedudetl1 said:


> I've been absent from the site for quite a while...


Good to see you again, hope all's well. 🍻


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## RusselBlueyes (2 mo ago)

Jim_M58 said:


> I've had a snowblower for 12 years. I bought it 2nd hand. It was kind of small, but it did the job. My problem w/it was that it didn't have a reverse (20" model) and my hip has gone bad (got a brand spankin' new one this August...)
> For Christmas last year my wife bought me an Ariens 920025. I was SO excited!
> Put in the gas (hi-test w/ stabilizer), and fired it up.
> It wasn't doing a great job, but it's an Ariens! I locked up both wheels b/c it was getting caught up in some drifts (I'm in Canada). Still, that little 20" MTD grabbed and flung the snow better w/ an engine half the size.
> ...


This is something you can try without taking the carburetor off. And if you get it running again, if it is available in your area, use ethanol free fuel. Even high-test fuel has ethanol added unless it states it is ethanol free. Here is instructions from Sea Foam on how to clean a dirty or plugged carburetor. HOW2_GummedUp-Carb.pdf (seafoamworks.com)


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## Plan - B (May 3, 2021)

When, I bought my Ariens 12 years ago, for the first 2 years, in would not start. I, called Ariens. I, said, what kind of junk engines are you putting on these snow blowers. I, explained the problem to him. This is what he told me. At the end of the season. Run it untill it stops. Put enough True Fuel in the tank to start it. Run it untill it stops. Do this about 3 times. After it stops for the 3rd time, drain the carb. Squirt some WD40 in the carb. Let it drain out, then put the screw back in the carb. store it. I, have been doing that for 10 years. My blower always starts in the fall with about 3 or 4 pulls.


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## firedudetl1 (Jan 26, 2016)

Happy Thanksgiving to all - I had a few minutes between prepping food and getting cleaned up. the warranty question was bothering me so I did a search and found this information 
hopefully it's useful to Jim M58 in terms of taking advantage of it to get his "new" machine repaired /replaced

(sorry about all the extra lines)
https://www.snowblowersdirect.com/manuals/ariens-f09320fc43efec800086e1b52305d185.pdf - complete information on site


partial information:
Ariens Company (Ariens) warrants to the original purchaser that Ariens brand products purchased on or after 3/16/2018 will be free from defects in material and workmanship for the time period noted in the chart below. Equipment put to personal use around a single household or residence is considered “Residential Use.” Equipment put to any business use (agricultural, commercial, or industrial) or used at multiple locations is considered “Commercial Use.” If any product is rented or leased, then the duration of these warranties shall be 90 days after the date of purchase.
An authorized Ariens dealer will repair any defect in material or workmanship, and repair or replace any defective part, subject to the conditions, limitations and exclusions set forth herein. Such repair or replacement will be free of charge (labor and parts) to the original purchaser; except as noted below. Pick-up and delivery are at the owner’s expense.
The warranty code is found on the model and serial number identification label on the unit.

Warranty CodeProduct GroupWarranty Period


SAProfessional Sno-Thro3 Years Residential Use. 1 Year Commercial Use.SBCompact, Deluxe and Platinum Sno-Thro and Path-Pro3 Years Residential Use. 90 Days Commercial Use.SCSno-Tek2 Years Residential Use. 90 Days Commercial Use.SDDeluxe and Platinum EFI Sno-Thro3 Years Residential Use. 90 Days Commercial Use.SE920-Series Classic Sno-Thro3 Years Residential Use. 90 Days Commercial Use.

Customer Responsibilities
Register the product immediately at the time of sale. If the dealer does not register the product, the customer must register the unit on-line at www.ariens.com.
To obtain warranty service, the original purchaser must:

Ensure that the maintenance and adjustments explained in the Operator’s Manual are routinely
completed.
Promptly notify Ariens Company or an authorized Ariens service representative of the need for warranty
service.
Transport the product to and from the place of warranty service at owner’s expense.
Have the warranty service performed by an authorized Ariens service representative.
To find an authorized dealer use the dealer locator on our websites, or contact us by mail or phone.

Engine ManufacturerDetailAriens AXAriens- and Yamaha-branded engines are warranted by the manufacturer and the warranty is administrated by Ariens Company. Refer to the engine manual for warranty statements.YamahaBriggs & Stratton, Kawasaki, Kohler, SubaruCovered by the engine manufacturer’s warranty.
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s warranty statements.

Globally except Australia or New Zealand:Australia or New Zealand:Ariens Company 655 W. Ryan Street Brillion, WI 54110 Phone: (920) 756 - 4688 www.ariens.com


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## Environmental.cad (2 mo ago)

cpchriste said:


> Check your oil level. It sounds like maybe the fuel tank emptied into the crankcase through the carb. You don't want to get it started with a crankcase full of gasoline.


 I agree. If the float stuck and gas drained into the crank case and overfilled it this could happen. Shear pins are a minor issue. Thats why there’s spares with most new blowers. At the end of the season turn off your fuel and run the carb dry. If you have excess fuel in the engine block, drain it all out, add the recommended amount of 5w-30 synthetic oil, add new treated fuel (with stabil), prime the carb and try starting it. Good luck.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Late to the party, but my comments . . . 

Most of the engines on these are made in China . . . So, they all are 'Chinese' engines.

In order to be successful with OPE (Outdoor Power Equipment) you really need to have a decent understanding of small engine maintenance and troubleshooting. Lots of folks don't have that knowledge or skill, and it becomes a challenge.

Fuel system issues seem to be the most common problems after an off-season layup.

Machines of 'today' tend to suffer from 'cost savings' by their manufacturer. Any brand of machine can have these types of issues.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

*EEET'S AAAALIIIIIVE!!*









*Whhoooo hooo!*
And, and... AND my thin wife plastered a wet sloppy on me! (see earlier posts...for the pun about typos! LOL)
I'm totally stoked right now; it's running like a dream.
*LET IT SNOW BAYYYBEEE!*
I'll be putting up a pretty comprehensive report (don't worry, no more selfies, lol) on what I did rong and what I did right.
I'll be going through EVERY comment here thanking each of you. The caption on the pic is the truth.
You guys and gals got me through this, I'm not exaggerating.
I'm having fam over on Sun for boid, but for now, HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
Jim

🍺🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

db130 said:


> So.... Did this machine sit for months unused, maybe from April 2022 to November 2022? Did you leave gasoline in it? It sounds like you have gummed up gasoline in your carburetor.


She's runnin' now! Thanks for your advice. I'm going to be posting a more comprehensive take on what happened. One point to make: I drained the carb into a glass jar, the tank into a separate container and put fresh gas (Premium Octane from Canadian Tire which has the rep up here to have 0 ethanol in it). AAand I poured some of the fresh gas into a glass jar and there was no difference in color, viscosity (OK, I just swirled it like I was checking the 'legs' of a glass of wine). No debris in the first 2 jars either. 

BUT...
there is NO air filter on this carb. It could have easily been tiny pieces of grit, or dust (those ports in the brass doo-hickey are really teensy weensy). I'm just noting this here for when I write this up.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

db130 said:


> Most of the OHV engines on snowblowers use a Honda-style carburetor with a 10mm bolt holding the carb bowl. Yes, there must be hundreds of carb clean videos on youtube.
> 
> I don't know if yours has a fuel shutoff valve or not, but if it does, close the fuel valve before attempting to disassemble the carburetor. If not, have a suitable container to catch the dripping fuel when you undo that 10mm bolt.
> 
> ...


It's runnin now! But thank you for the vid and advice. 
Is the 'emulsion tube' the red doo-hicky or the brass insert that's adjustable? (I'd love to learn new werds! lol) 
That's a good vid; I watched both of his a few times for guidance on disass & reass. In it though, I don't think he checked to port on what I call the red doo-hicky and I <<THINK>> that was where the problem was. 

I also used spray carb cleaner on it. 
Again, thanks!


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

KJSeller said:


> Does the carb have a drain in it and do you have a fuel shutoff? Turn off the fuel and drain the carb if possible.
> 
> You can try spraying some carb cleaner into the carb throttle plate when it's open using the choke. I did this trick to get my Toro started a few weeks back. I used stabilizer as well but left the fuel in.
> Check out these videos.


Yeah, I gave the ez fix first but w/ no success. It's running now, but I wasn't able to isolate what the actual problem was. I THINK it must have been a piece of grit in one of the ports- I'm suspecting the red doo-hicky b/c that one has only 1 port at the base of it. Sure I could be wrong, but that spot looks to me like it could be a choke point. 

Again, thanks. 
🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

tabora said:


> @Jim_M58, some thoughts... Checking the shear bolts is a "before every use" thing and also could have broken early in your first use. Putting the machine away for the year in the new era of sketchy fuel is also covered in the manual. I don't think you should be blaming the machine. Please start by taking a few minutes to re-read your manuals and I think you'll have a happier experience with your Ariens going forward.
> 
> You can download digital copies here: Operator's Manuals - Ariens


Thanks man. 
I want to emphasize that the crappy throwing was right out of the box. I'm not kidding nor exaggerating. I recall it specifically b/c when I started I felt let down that it wasn't doing as good a job as my small one. And the drifts I talked about were drifts of fresh snow; no ice at all. 

What the hell...that problem did get fixed right off the bat, right? It's only my opinion that the bolt was missed; I have zero evidence to the contrary. I do, however have a much, much stronger opinion about Ariens in this regard insofar as not even acknowledging my email. That casts a light on the overall company's attitude towards new customers. And I'll be getting into that later on when I write up this experience. 

Let me put it this way: as far as I'm concerned I'm STUCK with this snowblower. I'll make do with it; but I'll never do business w/ the company again.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

deezlfan said:


> Spend some time reading threads in this forum and you will likely see that some of your issues may be self-inflicted. Gotta say that it sounds like you might have broken the shear pin in the snow drift before your neighbor pointed out that one side wasn't rotating. I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to respond to a shear pin issue when it was doing what was supposed to do. The schmoo running out the exhaust is also not the manufactures fault. Trying to start a blower on dead fuel will result in that 95% of the time. Hang in there and we will attempt to help you clear these things up.


Yeah, I know, I know...rookie w/ a new toy not looking after it; I getcha'. 
My question though is why am I able to just park the old one season in and out without any problem like this? Also, I have other small engine equipment that have never had this issue: chain saw/ weed eater / lawn mower... Yeah, the first 2 are 2 cycle engines, but still... 

So for now, I'm willing to accept a certain amount of responsibility, but on the other hand, I can't get away from how this problem has not been encountered with the other 2 4 stroke engine items I've owned. I can't shake that, man. 
(I posted a couple of times about the shear pin issue. In the course of things, I do want to say that it's possible it broke. And if that's the case, it IS kind of a smart play on Airens' part. Put in a more 'delicate' or whatever shear pin to avoid a much bigger problem should the impeller capture a huge chunk of ice. To be completely honest, I can fully appreciate that decision process. And furthermore, they DID ship the unit with TWO replacements, right? Right. I'm just trying to be fair.)


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

deleted


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Pauleastend63 said:


> Watch this guy on Youtube......he goes into detail when cleaning and rebuilding carbs, gummed up fuel systems are the death of so many snow blowers, lawnmowers and the like. I personally only use fresh marine grade ethanol free gas, I use it before it gets old, and I always completely drain my gas tanks and carbs when I store them so that the fuel delivery system does not get all gummed up, also..... I have stopped using gas stabilizer, many may crucify me here for saying that but where I live I have easy access to Marine grade ethanol free gas.
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/@jcondon1


That guy's something else, huh? WOW. I didn't find one pertinent to my problem, but wow does he know his stuff. Thanks. 
NORTH BAY??? Now that's snow country!


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

kozal01 said:


> Have you checked the oil level?


Yeah, it was good before I started it (well...TRIED TO! LOL) and I changed it during this whole magilla. 
🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

KJSeller said:


> Just remember snow blowers requirement maintenance. Most of them are basic in design and you just need to do a few simple things to keep them going for a long time. Learn how to baby your machines and you'll be a happy camper. If you think you just need to gas and go and be problem free, then tell us what you're smoking 🤣🤣🤣 (just kidding).
> 
> Shear pins are designed to prevent costly damage to your gear box. Get some extras and learn how to replace them before winter.


Yeah, I hear ya. 
Shear pins? I LEARNED HOW TO REPLACE EM THE FIRST DAY I USED THIS! LOL
Thanks.
🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Ziggy65 said:


> Did you buy the machine from a dealer or big box store?
> Did you contact them regarding the "missing" shear bolt?
> - Got it from Rona, and no I didn't contact them.
> I think it probably could have sheared during your first use, but either way you are only out a couple bucks.
> ...


🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

BazookaJoe said:


> The goo in the exhaust muffler is the unburned liquid (can't call it "fuel" after it was in the carb all summer) which has now been drawn thru the carb and then cycled thru the engine.
> 
> Your problem with the starting is NOT an Ariens issue. Any other brand engine in similar circumstances would result in the exact same manner.
> 
> ...


Thanks man. 🍺🍺🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Auger1 said:


> I got a free Compact 24 from some gals a couple of years abo and they said they hated the Ariens 24 and since I only had one in the past (ST-824) I took it when they tossed it on the curb because it looked like new. After I spent some time on it, the 24 ran so poorly and did not blow snow well like the OP said his does. Well it turned out no matter how I cleaned the carb this engine just wouldn't work so I bought a new carb off Amazon
> _*- after reading this I went on Amazon. I'll be honest, it was bit overwhelming. Sure, I found pretty much identical carbs, but my logic was that I was replacing one crummy carb w/ the same crummy carb. I'll probably be asking 'what's a better carb that fits this model' in the future and suck some more wisdom from you guys.
> 
> It's running pretty good now, and was doing a great job last winter.
> ...


*Thanks man. 
🍺 *


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Jim_M58 said:


> Are you sure about this??? B/c it's the 'idle' speed that's totally bonkers.


thats it idle speed
idle jet is under it


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

WVguy said:


> I'm inclined to believe, like the others, that your problems may be self-inflicted. Please note I said "MAY".
> *My ego thanks you! *
> 
> 
> ...


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## KJSeller (Nov 3, 2021)

You would think that Ariens would provide better service, but some people don't step up. It's become too common and we vote with our dollars and buy elsewhere. 

Toyota has dud vehicles too and when it happens they act like it never does. All companies can create lemons.... It's how they handle the lemonade is what sets them apart.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Jim_M58 said:


> *Thanks man.
> 🍺 *


What happened to you has happened to others here at least 17,345 times.

youse people are what is making me a snowblower grease monkey millionaire......


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

KJSeller said:


> I'm wondering if you should buy a replacement carb off Amazon? One of the adjustable types. Maybe that original carb has some defect with machining or one of the small jets is way to small. With all of the issues these days that wouldn't be a surprise.
> 
> That may fix your issues. I bought carbs off Amazon.ca for $25 CDN.
> 
> Something like this one on the link. The adjustable part is the main jet on the bottom. https://a.co/d/3XowvEv











That's EXACTLY what I'm thinking of getting! *Thank youuuu!
The adj screw at the bottom is what I did to fix the over-revving I discussed. BUT w/ the manf. installed carb, in order to make the adjustment I had to remove the carb completely to do it. 

Y'see, this is part of my gripe w/ Airens... THIS is the kind of carb they could have installed in the factory. Adjusting the flow rate/ fuel mix would be a snap w/ this item. 
I'll just buy the frikkin' thing and make sure that it'll go on. (With this saga, I've gotten really, REALLY good at taking the carb off and on. LOL
Thanks so much. 
🍺 🍺 🍺 *


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Zilla said:


> holy crap I can't spell


YOU can't spell? Did ya see the comments about my thin wife? BWHAHAHAHA!!!
As far as an oil sensor on THIS machine? HA! As if...
🍺


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Jim_M58 said:


> Is the 'emulsion tube' the red doo-hicky or the brass insert that's adjustable? (I'd love to learn new werds! lol)













#1 = pilot screw
#2 = pilot jet
#4 = main jet
#5 = main nozzle aka emulsion tube

There was an adjustable screw on the bottom of your carburetor?? Please post a picture. What you've posted is a adjustable Tecumseh carburetor that hasn't been in use in _quite_ some time.


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Zilla said:


> Blue flame is oxygen rich, and is a result of the fuel/air mixture not completing combustion until it passes through the exhaust. I think anyway lol. A spark plug issue could cause this. Are you at the point you voided the warranty and that's why you keep trying? Its fun for us to help but not sure how much you should endure...


Yeah, it turned out I needed to back off the needle valve. It was this post along w/ a later one that got me to back off on an internal screw (1 1/2 turns from seated) 
Thanks man.
BTW... is THAT your snowblower in your avatar??? Whoaaaa!
🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

ChrisJ said:


> The black plastic screw adjusts the idle speed.


And does a crappy job on mine. Just sayin. 
Thanks for hanging here, man. Your comment helped point me in the right direction.
🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

burt8810 said:


> It seems you may have a carb linkage problem. In operation there is usually a spring trying to open the carb valve and a link from the governor trying to close the valve. Under normal conditions , with full throttle, the 2 forces are equal and the engine runs at the "governed speed" usually about 3000-3600rpm. The faster the engine speed the greater the force trying to close the carb valve.
> My first assumption would not be an internal governor problem. Since you have removed and re-installed the carb I would suspect a linkage and/or spring problem.
> Did you take any pictures of the linkage before you started to remove the carb? If not I would start looking for pictures and/or illustrations of the carb linkage.
> If this is indeed the problem it will surely be much simpler to fix than taking the engine apart.
> Just my $0.02


The linkages were all good; I checked and have pretty pics of them before and after, they match up. Turned out to be post 78 that fixed the over revving.
Thanks for your experienced advice, I really appreciate the instructions and info on how the governor operates. Engineering of this type really fascinates me; I'm not kidding. 
🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

firedudetl1 said:


> I'm with Wrenchit and wondering why this machine hasn't gone back to whoever sold it, warranty in hand and asking when the new machine will be delivered to replace this problem machine.
> I understand offering advice on the various issues with this particular machine and all have merit, but.... man... I'd be at the door of the company that sold it to me
> Sorry in advance if I offend/insult anyone
> 
> ...


I'll be honest here: if I had a pickup truck and an extra set of hands, I'd probably have raised hell at the big box store. But that sucker's gotta weigh 150-200 lbs, and it's too big to fit into my rogue. When it was delivered they used a freakin' fork lift.

But also...as much as I detest Ariens now (and I really, really do), this bastard's MINE. I'll put up w/it. I'll be replacing the carb this summer if I get thru the winter w/out any more problems. 
Thanks for your well wishes, bud; I really appreciated them when I first read your post. 
🍺


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Jim_M58 said:


> View attachment 203457
> 
> That's EXACTLY what I'm thinking of getting! *Thank youuuu!
> The adj screw at the bottom is what I did to fix the over-revving I discussed. BUT w/ the manf. installed carb, in order to make the adjustment I had to remove the carb completely to do it.
> ...


They didn't because they are illegal . . . In the US, the EPA will not allow adjusbl*e carbs, and Canada tends to folow thier lead. (Don't confuse the availability of offshore parts with legality!)*


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

RusselBlueyes said:


> This is something you can try without taking the carburetor off. And if you get it running again, if it is available in your area, use ethanol free fuel. Even high-test fuel has ethanol added unless it states it is ethanol free. Here is instructions from Sea Foam on how to clean a dirty or plugged carburetor. HOW2_GummedUp-Carb.pdf (seafoamworks.com)


The carb was pristine when I took it apart (there's pics on the thread). I THINK/Suspect/hypothesize...? that it was a piece of grit in the red doo-hickey in this cheapskate component. Ariens ought to be ashamed of themselves for putting it on. 
Thanks for chiming in though. I appreciate you taking the time. 
🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

Plan - B said:


> When, I bought my Ariens 12 years ago, for the first 2 years, in would not start. I, called Ariens. I, said, what kind of junk engines are you putting on these snow blowers. I, explained the problem to him. This is what he told me. At the end of the season. Run it untill it stops. Put enough True Fuel in the tank to start it. Run it untill it stops. Do this about 3 times. After it stops for the 3rd time, drain the carb. Squirt some WD40 in the carb. Let it drain out, then put the screw back in the carb. store it. I, have been doing that for 10 years. My blower always starts in the fall with about 3 or 4 pulls.


So this is what they told you on the phone? Did that solve the non-starting issue you called them over? 
IDK what kind of carb is on yours, but I'm going to be swapping out my carb for the one described in an earlier post (I put a pic up on it from Amazon Canada). 

Frankly, what I'm thinking is that the rigamarole that Ariens has you doing is making up for the CHEAP AF carb they installed at the factory, but that's only my opinion. You're doing a LOT of labor, and they made the profit. I'm serious. 
But hey... you didn't have the day I had that started this thread did ya? HUH? lol 

Thanks man. 
🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

firedudetl1 said:


> Happy Thanksgiving to all - I had a few minutes between prepping food and getting cleaned up. the warranty question was bothering me so I did a search and found this information
> hopefully it's useful to Jim M58 in terms of taking advantage of it to get his "new" machine repaired /replaced
> 
> (sorry about all the extra lines)
> ...


Thanks for this- yeah, that stuff's in my manual. 
You gotta love their 'Transport the item to the retailer..." 
Meh. 
But yeah, this is a chintzy carb...from a chintzy company. (see above) 
And as for youuuu... again thanks!
🍺🍺🍺


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

db130 said:


> View attachment 203460
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your pic is pretty much what came factory installed. The pic I posted it the one I'd like to replace it with. Not sayin I AM...cuz according to another poster, THAT WOULD BE ILLEGAL, and God forbid...


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

🤦


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## Zilla (2 mo ago)

Jim_M58 said:


> Yeah, it turned out I needed to back off the needle valve. It was this post along w/ a later one that got me to back off on an internal screw (1 1/2 turns from seated)
> Thanks man.
> BTW... is THAT your snowblower in your avatar??? Whoaaaa!
> 🍺


No but a fun time it would be. I was doing some research and found that machine throwing snow measured by yards not feet. I was so impressed with the process it must have taken
from spitball to production. 
I'm glad you got it running, it was a great written exam for everyone here lol. To be honest, I'm not even sure we know exactly all the things that went wrong or right to get to this point lol. For you to take the time to respond to each however demonstrates a great sense of kindness and the type of fella that's ok with me, Godspeed my friend


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## Jim_M58 (2 mo ago)

orangputeh said:


> What happened to you has happened to others here at least 17,345 times.
> 
> youse people are what is making me a snowblower grease monkey millionaire......


In a previous life I was a licensed Plumbing & Heating contractor in the NYC area. I used to tell people:
*'You're **** is my bread and butter'*
Har-dee-har har.


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## Beanhead (Oct 17, 2021)

I have a friend that started televeiwing sewer lines, then went to work in the sewer district. I called him a turd herder 😂


Jim_M58 said:


> In a previous life I was a licensed Plumbing & Heating contractor in the NYC area. I used to tell people:
> *'You're **** is my bread and butter'*
> Har-dee-har har.


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