# Craftsman II Trac-Plus 4/20 -- fuel line help??



## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Hi guys... someone gift me this critter, which supposedly was running a couple years ago. I _think_ it's a model 536.885410, but can't find a model plate on it. I'll post pictures later but if I could find a repair manual that would help. Owner's manual gave me no joy, having no diagram of the fuel system. Or I missed it. (Craftsman 143.804062 Owner's Manual over on ManualsLib.) Any idea what year this might be?

I am not a mechanic, tho I can usually follow directions if you use very small words. 

Anyway everything appears in good shape (other than being dirty from sitting outside) -- turns over easy, and everything is tight but not seized. No leaks or obvious wear or heat marks anywhere. Rubber all feels good. Gas tank looks solid, carb looks clean far as I can see through the choke. Seems like not many hours on it. Missing bolt on one blade, but that's easy enough to replace.

However, it looks like someone cut the fuel line. There's a soft skinny rubber tube (maybe half the diameter of a thin pencil) dangling in the air with nothing obvious to attach it to and a factory-smooth end, I have no idea what that is, unless it's a vent. There's also a stiff thick-walled rubber tube about the size of your little fingertip coming from the direction of the gas tank, and it would logically attach to a ribbed metal tube sticking out of the top of the carb, but it's been hacked off with about two inches sticking out. Is that where it attaches, and is it supposed to have a filter in-line? 

Will be interesting to see if the tracks are better on my sloped driveway.... a blower with wheels was an Adventure best not repeated.

Thanks, all!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Without pictures, hard to tell.

I would assume the short rubber hose your talking about is either the crank case vent or the primer bulb hose?

The 1/4 inch ID hose would be the fuel line from the tank to the carb.

Sitting outside , not running for a couple years , I can guarantee the carb is messed up, along with bad gas, etc.

Probably have to evict the mice as well.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> the primer bulb hose?


Ah. Didn't think of that. When I press the primer bulb air comes out, and buried on the other side of the carb is a teeny tiny recessed port where it just fits.



Oneacer said:


> The 1/4 inch ID hose would be the fuel line from the tank to the carb.


So since the cut end isn't rotten, should be able to put an extension from there to the carb port, yes?

Around here we have real gas, and the gal said her ex who used it was a small engine mechanic (if perhaps a sloppy one) so hopefully would know not to put ethanol in it. Bone dry from end to end regardless, and no dead old gas smell or residue. (Tho I should change the oil. It feels good, but is pitch black.)

Hey, is there supposed to be a gasket (or goop) between the carb and the engine body? I don't see one, and it feels a little loose. Bolts won't go any tighter.

Anyway, I squirted a little gas in the carb and it started right up, ran very smooth and quiet for the ten seconds or so til it ran out of gas. So far so good! You brought me luck. Thanks!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would probably run a new line from the tank to the carb, but if you blew that line out, and need a longer hose, you could splice it by adding a small thin wall piece of pipe in the hose and 2 more clamps, or just put a shut off or a filter there if it will fit.

There is always a gasket from carb to block as far as I am aware.

All my 5 gallon gas cans get 2oz of Stabil and 2oz of SeaFoam.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Looks like replacing the line would be a fair bit of work, so I'll try the splice first. With the cover back on there really isn't room for anything else.

I wonder if the guy had the carb off to clean it and forgot to replace the gasket. It's all shiny inside and out.

Any thoughts on synthetic oil for these critters? my riding mower came with synth, but it's a lot newer.

There's all kinds of opinions on Stabil and whether you should run stuff dry for storage, but I've done it every which way and seen no difference (not even with the overworked worn out old mower, starts right up regardless). But I cycle through my gas pretty regularly, and the Cenex refinery is right here in town, maybe less time in storage overall is the real difference.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

All my equipment gets Full Synthetic 5W30.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> All my equipment gets Full Synthetic 5W30.


Good to know, thanks!


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Ya tear that old fuel line out and replace with fresh, then you have a known starting point. The materials are cheap enough there's no point cobbling. Easier too in the end.

Plus you can add a filter and proper shutoff valve, and decent hose clamps.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

I'll have to see how hard it is to get to -- it's clamped in pretty tight, can't just pull it through. If I can't get to it right off, for now I just want to get it to where I can run it a bit so I can see how it operates (having never owned one before) and make sure it all works before winter arrives. Would be right silly to wind up stuck in a snowdrift in the middle of the driveway trying to figure it out.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Reziac said:


> Would be right silly to wind up stuck in a snowdrift in the middle of the driveway trying to figure it out.


You'd be the first among us to not have accomplished that... however. The better you go through it before winter, the less chance of it happening. Even then, stuff happens... part of the Fun.

Last time for me, she started running rough, then quit... aye...?

Oyeah... they run on fuel... and not so much without it... 🤣


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

take the time take the pull start cover off and replace the fuel line now. You thank me this winter.


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## carguy20 (Feb 8, 2021)

Agreed with above. A new fuel line is a must at this point. The time you take now to tear it down and getting it running right will pay dividends in the winter when the machine will start and run without issue. 

If it were me, I would take off the fuel tank, clean it out good. Then put the new fuel line, fuel filter, clamps, and maybe even shutoff valve. You will also probably have to clean out the carb as well. With a completely refreshed fuel system and stabilized gas, you will have years and years of trouble free use.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

I think someone already did a partial cleanup. The gas tank is totally clean inside (not even the smell left behind), and the carb is shiny like it's had a recent cleaning... would explain the apparently-absent gasket. 

Fuel line is down under a bunch of stuff, not sure how far I'd have to dismantle to get to it... tho after further review, feels like I can carefully wiggle it out on the tank side, and way less risk of something going *SPRONG* that I don't know how to fix. On closer inspection, looks like the tank end is getting tired and might consider a sudden divorce, so yeah, gonna have to replace it entirely.

But not today... today I'm recovering from picking chokecherries, and one of my arms is still stuck in the fully-upright position.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Synthetic oil not because it's better, because it flows easier in cold weather.

Replace the fuel line, use wide squeeze clamps not hose gear clamps, put a right angle shut off valve in. Do not buy the fuel line at an auto parts store, it's 1/4" x 1/2"; buy it at a mower shop, it's 1/4" x 7/16". You need that smaller O.D.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

So I was wondering why the shut-off valve, since out of all the random equipment I've accumulated (nine lawn mowers of various descriptions) only one has a fuel valve. Went looking and found this:



> The valve should be used when the mower isn’t in use. Ideally after you’ve mowed the lawn, the gas should be shut off until the next use.
> 
> This takes the load off the carburetor float needle, prevents fuel evaporation and gas leaks. It’s also good practice to shut the gas off before transporting the mower in a car or trailer.
> 
> The constant bumping around would otherwise cause gas to flood the engine, this usually results in a no start.


I did wonder how much risk there is of busting the port on the gas tank. It's got a little flat clamp there that I haven't seen before. Would definitely need the smaller fuel line, half a hair bigger wouldn't fit in the spot. Ace repairs mowers, so I'm sure they must have it.

Good advice on the synth oil, thanks.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Reziac said:


> I think someone already did a partial cleanup. The gas tank is totally clean inside (not even the smell left behind), and the carb is shiny like it's had a recent cleaning... would explain the apparently-absent gasket.
> 
> Fuel line is down under a bunch of stuff, not sure how far I'd have to dismantle to get to it... tho after further review, feels like I can carefully wiggle it out on the tank side, and way less risk of something going *SPRONG* that I don't know how to fix. On closer inspection, looks like the tank end is getting tired and might consider a sudden divorce, so yeah, gonna have to replace it entirely.
> 
> But not today... today I'm recovering from picking chokecherries, and one of my arms is still stuck in the fully-upright position.


you probably wont be successful trying to wiggle it through. In any case do you self a favor and replace it now.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

At some point, having equipment, you are going to have to wrench on them to keep them maintained and repaired.

You will need some basic tools and be methodical, and take pictures prior to dismantling if you don't trust your brain. Also bag and tag any nuts , bolts, etc, so you know where they go on re-assembly. Its pretty simple really, just start off slow and you will get the hang of it. Good time to start self learning is now ...


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> At some point, having equipment, you are going to have to wrench on them to keep them maintained and repaired.


Alas, this is often true. Durn things just don't know how to fix themselves, and refuse to learn, so we get stuck doing it.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

CarlB said:


> you probably wont be successful trying to wiggle it through. In any case do you self a favor and replace it now.


Run a wire through the old line, hold the wire in place and pull the line, and then use the wire as a guide to put the new one in. The lines never kink under the shrouds, so the path is usually clear (unless someone "helped" it in the past) and this will get you a new line in exactly the same place as the old one in minutes! Good, and you are no worse off had you not tried this .


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

That's a good trick, thanks. And it looks like the path is entirely straight where it disappears underneath stuff, so shouldn't be too difficult.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

This was discussed a few months ago. Someone posted the wire trick but also screw or put a piece of threaded rod, stud bolt, bolt with head cut off in to the old and new fuel line hose then pull. I think this was the best idea posted l


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Yeah, especially when there are bits sticking out for it to get caught on... with the wire in place you should be able to wiggle on past. I've got some high-tension wire that's really stiff, good for the purpose. Great tip!


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

I was the one who suggested the wire, and typically just use a coat hangar with the end folded over and crunched closed into a small ball so it isn't sharp. The key is to not damage the new line, or put stiff spots in that can't make turns, as might be the case with a bolt or some such.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just take the cover off ....


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Multiply the job by 25x (or more)? Why in the world do that? My way is about 30 seconds, and you can't strip any srews. Not a fan of doing things the hard way at all!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Strip screws? lol, I never seen such a long thread on changing a fuel line .....


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

<solemn voiceover>

_And thus will the annals of history record the opening salvos of the Great Fuel Line Wars..._

So I sallied forth armed with screwdriver and wrench... counted 8 bolts and various other stuff that would need dysmangling, deemed myself outgunned, and retreated from the field... it ain't just a cover. It's a cover to which are directly attached the gas tank mount, the recoil mechanism (integrated), and some wires and smaller bits. And even then you're not down to the level of the fuel line, which feeds through next to the bottom of the block. Well, in defense of whatever lunatic designed it, that IS the most direct route.

However, all is not lost! Upon polishing the area around the topmost bolts, I discovered the model and serial stamp:

143-804062 SER 9290 B


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

taking the cover is really no big deal.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Oneacer said:


> Strip screws? lol, I never seen such a long thread on changing a fuel line .....


The ones holding the sheetmetal covers on, which tend to strip if you even look at them funny on older engines . . .


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

CarlB said:


> taking the cover is really no big deal.


Yeah, just no good reason to need to, that's all . . .


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

Where are the pictures? 

Maybe we can help you better with them. I've replaced many fuel lines on Tecumseh engines and never had to remove the cover. Remove fuel tank and carb and that's it. Can be done even with carb still in place, but might take more time if you don't get lucky first pull.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Haven't had a chance to process pics yet, but on the third try found fuel line that works (1/4" yeah, but it has to be stretchy 1/4" or it doesn't fit... O'Reilly's Auto Parts to the rescue)... and after some poking around and comparing OD with the old line, which was already in there too tight, determined that even a full teardown wouldn't make new line fit in the same spot (well, maybe if you smashed the line flat). So wound up routing it around the recoil, where it's at the same height and out of the way, and fits very securely behind the little flange the pull handle seats into. (As a bonus, won't have a notch rubbed into it by a flange midway through the hole, like the old line did.)

So... engine's all fixed up, time to look underneath. Chain drive looks good. Further along, I see one belt, slightly loose. I see another larger belt wheel with no belt. I presume it's supposed to have a belt. I don't see an obvious place for the other end. Mighta just jumped entirely out of my depth here.


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## Johner (Dec 30, 2020)

Reziac said:


> Hi guys... someone gift me this critter, which supposedly was running a couple years ago. I _think_ it's a model 536.885410, but can't find a model plate on it. I'll post pictures later but if I could find a repair manual that would help. Owner's manual gave me no joy, having no diagram of the fuel system. Or I missed it. (Craftsman 143.804062 Owner's Manual over on ManualsLib.) Any idea what year this might be?
> 
> I am not a mechanic, tho I can usually follow directions if you use very small words.
> 
> ...


read some not all reply's, If your fuel line runs under the shroud It is not easy to pull threw , a push pull to get it to move BUT connect the new line to the old and see if you can push pull out, if you don't connect the lines and try to put a new one in it could get out of the track it rides in and get cut by the fly wheel. good luck.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Run a wire through the old fuel line, pull it leaving the wire, and use it as a guide to get the new one in under the shroud. Makes the process trivial . . . .

Also, if the first line you mentioned comes off a cover on the side of the block, then it's the crankcase vent, and on older engines, does not connect to anything.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Haven't had time to work on the beast since whenever last...


tadawson said:


> Also, if the first line you mentioned comes off a cover on the side of the block, then it's the crankcase vent, and on older engines, does not connect to anything.


Ah, that must be the short hollow rubber bit that I can rotate but didn't seem to go anywhere. Thanks, solved the mystery. (I am not an engine maven.) The skinny line is evidently attached to the primer bulb.


Johner said:


> If your fuel line runs under the shroud It is not easy to pull threw


Did get the old line out, but the space was smaller than the new line that fits the port. So it's now routed around the outside. And gas goes from tank to carb, so that much works!

However that's when I discovered that the carb bowl drain leaks (gas runs out about as fast as it runs in), which probably explains why the carb was not attached when I got it. The spring works fine, so must be missing a gasket on the inside. Haven't had it back apart yet.

Did get all the squirrel crud cleaned off and emptied out of the impeller (I swear someone must have used it to rake leaves... I actually use a lawnmower for that); turns fairly easy but with no wobble, so hopefully that end is good.


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## nbwinter (Jan 18, 2021)

When I did my mid - late 80's Craftsman I removed the guard over the carb, the electric starter, the pull cord mechanism (be careful not to damage your primer bulb tee) and it was mostly a straight shot through a little channel in there. I found it hard to find a line with a matching outside diameter but I found something close and with a little lube she slid right through. Also a good time to replace your primer line and or bulb. I might even have some pictures of the job.


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## Reziac (Aug 4, 2021)

Unfortunately not the case here... the only gas line I could find that fit the port was too big for the space (it's about 30% thicker than the old line, which barely fit). But around the outside is at the same height and as a bonus, isn't rubbing against a flange in the middle like the old one was.


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