# Can I Repair a Bad Governor Ariens Sno-Thro Model 910955 Tecumseh



## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

Hello,

I have an Ariens Sno-Thro Model 910955 probably from the 1970's with a bad internal governor. The repair shop did not want to repair it. I have some time now to try it if it makes sense. I have moderate skills and some good hand tools. If I fail, I can get a new one. I got kind of attached to the old one.

So, is there a good video that shows how to do it? I understand that some bolts are hard to remove especially in such an old unit. Where are these? If I can get these out maybe the rest is possible. 

I would appreciate any advice that you have.

Thanks


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

This should be a pretty simple operation, but you do need to open the engine case. The gov "gear" as it is typically called is a resin (nylon?) gear with the governor flyweights attached to it that sits adjacent to the cam, and which is replaced as a single part. I don't personnally have any vids, but any overhaul/teardown video should show what you need.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Not a video, but this seems decent: Tecumseh Governor Failure


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

The first thing I would do is open it up to see what I was working with. Then decide.

Best of luck. 👍


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

tadawson said:


> This should be a pretty simple operation, but you do need to open the engine case. The gov "gear" as it is typically called is a resin (nylon?) gear with the governor flyweights attached to it that sits adjacent to the cam, and which is replaced as a single part. I don't personnally have any vids, but any overhaul/teardown video should show what you need.


I looked for a overhaul/teardown video but I did not find one that opened the area where the governor is. Can you find one for me?


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

As Posted Above, You have to split the case to get at it. The Governor is bolted to the inside of the case. I may have one laying around somewhere if you get that far.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Kneed2No said:


> I looked for a overhaul/teardown video but I did not find one that opened the area where the governor is. Can you find one for me?


Read the doc I linked - it has photos.

Or this vid at 58 minutes . . .


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## distrbd (Dec 8, 2021)

Kneed2No said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have an Ariens Sno-Thro Model 910955 probably from the 1970's with a *bad internal governor. The repair shop did not want to repair it. * I have some time now to try it if it makes sense. I have moderate skills and some good hand tools. If I fail, I can get a new one. I got kind of attached to the old one.
> 
> ...


I don't have a solution for you but what I don't get is how difficult it would be for a repair shop to open up an engine and repair a bad governor, after all this should be their bread and butter unless it is too time consuming and too involved for a repair shop to refuse the fix.
I went through the same experience with my Ariens (2013 model) that had a bad governor, the repair shop owner also did not want to go near it, I have never done this type of repair myself but you'd think it's an easy task for a "pro" shop but I guess I was wrong.


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

tadawson said:


> Read the doc I linked - it has photos.
> 
> Or this vid at 58 minutes . . .


Hi, Is there a link to the 58 minute video? I do not want to take apart anything that I do not have to.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Kneed2No said:


> Hi, Is there a link to the 58 minute video? I do not want to take apart anything that I do not have to.


Recheck my prior post . . . the link had not made it, and has been corrected.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

distrbd said:


> I don't have a solution for you but what I don't get is how difficult it would be for a repair shop to open up an engine and repair a bad governor, after all this should be their bread and butter unless it is too time consuming and too involved for a repair shop to refuse the fix.
> I went through the same experience with my Ariens (2013 model) that had a bad governor, the repair shop owner also did not want to go near it, I have never done this type of repair myself but you'd think it's an easy task for a "pro" shop but I guess I was wrong.


No, I think they are just lazy, and use it as an excuse to try to ram something new down your throat that you may not need . . . gov replacement is generally pretty trivial . . .


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

A shop by me said that because Tecumseh is out of business and parts are so hard to find, that it's just too much of a crap shoot. 

They got $300 deep into a repair, found out that a part they needed was no longer available & they ended up eating the repair. Customer just left it and bought a new, more powerful engine for $369 + tax. So when shops say it's just not worth it, I can understand what they mean. 

I am in that exact situation right now. 13 hp Tecumseh started over revving badly. I think I turned it off in time. But I looked into a Briggs replacement engine......$1300 - $2000 & no one had one in stock. I bought a 15.8 hp engine brand new for $429.99 + tax & a 2 year complete replacement warranty for $100. So I completely understand the it's just not worth our time attitude.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

I see lots of Tec gov spools out there in about the $10 price range . . . not buying the "not worth it BS" (still).

But, definitely check for the parts before starting the job . . . Even if something else is wrong, you are out less than $20, and can likely sell the part to someone else . . .


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## peterk (Apr 30, 2014)

Search this sub-forum. Someone just did one this year. Pete


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

Hi,

I began the replacement or repair project with the first step. I drained the oil. It was a milky gray color. I had changed the oil before the winter. I had put gasoline into the tank but did not shut off the valve. I found the gas tank empty. So, my guess is that the gasoline leaked into the oil. Before I get much further into it, do I have another problem to look at aside from me trying to remember to shut off the gas when I am not using it?

The video was good and sort of funny. 

Thanks.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

If this is a flatheat, that should be impossible - the carbs on these engines sit lower than the intake port, and any fuel leaking past the needle would just run out the intake. Milky is also typically moisture, not oil . . .


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

tadawson said:


> If this is a flatheat, that should be impossible - the carbs on these engines sit lower than the intake port, and any fuel leaking past the needle would just run out the intake. Milky is also typically moisture, not oil . . .


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

Update: I took the engine off and opened the governor section of the engine. The Governor works fine. I am going back to that repair shop on Monday.


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

I went down to the repair shop. He saw that the governor was doing what it was supposed to do. He reiterated that the engine was racing. I did not get much of an answer as to what I should try next. 

I am buying a new gasket from him to close up the engine. Do I need any gasket adhesive between the gasket and the assembly?

I am thinking of looking at the carburetor and possibly replacing it. There must be a logical answer.

Thanks all.


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## 2AriensGuy (11 mo ago)

I suggest looking at donyboy73 videos on YouTube and see if there is something deep inside carburetor that you missed or were unaware of. Keep us posted please.


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Kneed2No said:


> Do I need any gasket adhesive between the gasket and the assembly?
> I am thinking of looking at the carburetor and possibly replacing it. There must be a logical answer.


No adhesive is needed for the gasket.
A dirty carb is the number one reason for surging.
A misadjusted governor linkage is number two.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

find a new shop the guy is a dope
better yet watch a few vids carbs are easy to change yourself
govenors are easy to adjust watch a video
would not want that guy putting the cover back on


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Basically, the throttle lever puts tension on the gov link that tries to pull the throttle open. The gov pulls against it to try to pull it closed. The balance between the two is the governed speed. Sooo, if the gov is working, then there is either too much tension (wrong spring, or hooked in the wrong place, or ???), the linkage is wrong (pushing the throttle open too far), or perhaps it is not adjusted correctly. (I don't recall if you did a gov setup or not, and too lazy at the moment to reread the thread . . . )


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tadawson said:


> I see lots of Tec gov spools out there in about the $10 price range . . . not buying the "not worth it BS" (still).
> 
> But, definitely check for the parts before starting the job . . . Even if something else is wrong, you are out less than $20, and can likely sell the part to someone else . . .



You don't see how it's not worth it for a shop to repair an old flathead?
How long do you figure it would take?


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

ChrisJ said:


> You don't see how it's not worth it for a shop to repair an old flathead?
> How long do you figure it would take?


For a bad gov on an otherwise good engine? maybe an hour - possibly less (depending on if on a machine or not), unless the tech is a moron . . . Ultimately, unmound/remount/pulleys are a wash, si ce that gets done whether repair or replace. 

Age is irrelevant - condition is what matters! An L head with low hours and light wear can be expected to have the same (and likely better) life than a typical Chinese turd . . . a Honda GX should outlive it, but then again, the cost difference becomes huge then . . . Myself, if something is serviceable, I almost _always_ repair instead of replace . . . 

Open case
remove old gear and any loose fragments.
clean case
place new gear
close case

Nothing needs to come off other than the cover.


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

Another update:

I closed the engine, mounted the engine on the snow thrower, and put the essential parts back on. I put a wire through the orifices in the two adjustment holes and reset them. Added oil and gasoline.

It would not start unless I put some gasolier in the spark plug hole. Then at best it ran doe maybe 15 seconds then raced than died. 

I am thinking either rebuild the carb or replace, I am leaning towards replacing.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Rebuild the carb while waiting for the new one


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tadawson said:


> For a bad gov on an otherwise good engine? maybe an hour - possibly less (depending on if on a machine or not), unless the tech is a moron . . . Ultimately, unmound/remount/pulleys are a wash, si ce that gets done whether repair or replace.
> 
> Age is irrelevant - condition is what matters! An L head with low hours and light wear can be expected to have the same (and likely better) life than a typical Chinese turd . . . a Honda GX should outlive it, but then again, the cost difference becomes huge then . . . Myself, if something is serviceable, I almost _always_ repair instead of replace . . .
> 
> ...


Age is very relevant.
You called someone that's trying to run a business lazy because he didn't want to waste his time on an old Tecumseh.

An hour in most places is $100-120. Are you going to pay him $100 plus parts MINIMUM etc to fix that? Maybe it's cheaper in other areas but that's what it runs where I am.

And then there's the fun of when things go wrong which is highly likely on something that age. It's not a profitable job that doesn't make the guy lazy.


*I'd bet a Chinese clone with ball bearings and cast iron sleeve to outlive the Tecumseh by a long shot. *I Feel you're really really far off on that comment.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

There may be another simple fix for what is going on.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

ChrisJ said:


> Age is very relevant.
> You called someone that's trying to run a business lazy because he didn't want to waste his time on an old Tecumseh.
> 
> An hour in most places is $100-120. Are you going to pay him $100 plus parts MINIMUM etc to fix that? Maybe it's cheaper in other areas but that's what it runs where I am.
> ...


When you have a Chinese turd that is over 50 years with no issues, get back to me. That's where my Tecs are now, and I would certainly spend $100 in labo and about $20 in parts to service a gov before I would even begin to consider the aforementioned turd.

(For that matter, I was fed the same BS on the Honda GX on my mower . . . about $75 in parts and a few hours of my time for a repair/rebuild and I was $100's ahead of a replacement . . .

Oh, and what, in the fantasy world you live is, wears with age whe not being run? Condition is _EVERYTHING_!


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tadawson said:


> *When you have a Chinese turd that is over 50 years with no issues, get back to me*. That's where my Tecs are now, and I would certainly spend $100 in labo and about $20 in parts to service a gov before I would even begin to consider the aforementioned turd.
> 
> (For that matter, I was fed the same BS on the Honda GX on my mower . . . about $75 in parts and a few hours of my time for a repair/rebuild and I was $100's ahead of a replacement . . .
> 
> *Oh, and what, in the fantasy world you live is, wears with age whe not being run?* Condition is _EVERYTHING_!


Amazing.

In the same post you essentially say age matters and then you then say age doesn't matter.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

ChrisJ said:


> Amazing.
> 
> In the same post you essentially say age matters and then you then say age doesn't matter.


Allow me to suggest reading lessons . . . I have _never_ intended to inply or suggest that age matters with regard to determining suitability of an engine for repair/rebuild, only condition . . .

The simple point that you seem to repeatedly miss is that the Chinese IP theft engines have not existed in the marketplace .ong enough to have a good feel for failure rate "in the big picture". . . and to spell it out clearly, this also related to condition, which relates to use, which have a very small relationship to age (since there is no predictability of hours run per year.) So, you check _condition_ - the _ONLY_ indicator of actual wear . . .

But then again, nitpicking and introducing irrelevancies has become a typical debate tactic these days for folks that don't have a supportable argument . . . I get it, you were traumatized by a Tec as a child or something, and have an irrational hatred of them . . .


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

tadawson said:


> Allow me to suggest reading lessons . . . I have _never_ intended to inply or suggest that age matters with regard to determining suitability of an engine for repair/rebuild, only condition . . .
> 
> The simple point that you seem to repeatedly miss is that the Chinese IP theft engines have not existed in the marketplace .ong enough to have a good feel for failure rate "in the big picture". . . and to spell it out clearly, this also related to condition, which relates to use, which have a very small relationship to age (since there is no predictability of hours run per year.) So, you check _condition_ - the _ONLY_ indicator of actual wear . . .
> 
> But then again, nitpicking and introducing irrelevancies has become a typical debate topic these days for folks that don't have a supportable argument . . . I get it, you were traumatized by a Tec as a child or something, and have an irrational hatred of them . . .


I don't even know what to say at this point.
You attack my ability to read and attack me multiple times and then comment about people nitpicking an introducing irrelevancies.

Please, enjoy the rest of your day.


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

Now back to my Ariens, if that is okay.

I took pictures of my linkages to make sure that they were positioned correctly and not causing my problems and to document where they are before I order a new carburetor. Does anyone see a problem with the way they are positioned?

Also, I was looking on Amazon for the carburetor and found when I asked if it would work for me I was told that that one was only for use with a primer. My Sno-Thro does not have one. Can anyone recommend a carburetor that would work for me?

Thank you.

Peace.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

It appears your linkages are hooked up properly, I attached some photos of my H50 below.

Can you make sure your governor linkage rod is not hitting the arm on the carb mounting bracket? If it is, that will cause issues.










The spring is on the outer hole on my machine.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

ChrisJ said:


> I don't even know what to say at this point.
> You attack my ability to read and attack me multiple times and then comment about people nitpicking an introducing irrelevancies.
> 
> Please, enjoy the rest of your day.


@ChrisJ: You clearly either missed or ignored my point, and started on things that have no relevance to this thread, so what do you expect me to think? And nobody was attacked - evidence based observations are _facts_, not attacks (well, perhaps to those other than snowflakes, but I digress). My mistake appears to be having attempted an intelligent debate with an unequipped person, so buh-bye! (And sorry for sidetracking this thread to all others!)


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

To the OP, I think I asked this earlier, but the response may have been lost . . . Have you checked the gov linkage setup IE the positiom of the gov arm on the shaft coming out of the block? That can also easy result in an overrev situation. I also forget (sorry!), but does the throttle control have any effect on speed at all? IE, can you reduce it to idle, but it overrevs when you bring the contol up, or?? Also, if you push the throttle plate/linkage closed by hand, can you reduce speed? If so, I doubt a carb replacement will do much, but if you cannot, then it may well help.

Also, note the metal rod with the "U" shaped bend in Ziggy's second photo. This is the speed adjustment point on these engines. After setting the gov link, you bend this open or closed to set the top governed speed.

I can't see anything that stands out as wrong on your linkages from your photos, but they are showing up verry blurry here, so it is really hard to be certain. Any chance you can attach some higher res images?


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Everyone... yo. 

Knock it off please.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Everyone... yo.
> 
> Knock it off please.


I blocked the guy - I'm done!


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

tadawson said:


> I blocked the guy - I'm done!


I certainly hope so... we're on very thin ice here and I don't like thin ice. 

*Just a note:*

SBF Fightnight is every third Saturday beginning at 7pm, out behind the SBF bar. Cover charge is $20 and includes one Bourbon, one Scotch and one beer. Consumption is required to participate in Fightnight.

Fighting within SBF itself may/will lead to suspension of bar privileges.

Now, let us speak no more of this (_not_ a suggestion).

Thank you, the Management.

Sorry OP... back to you(r) Governor. 🍻


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

tadawson said:


> To the OP, I think I asked this earlier, but the response may have been lost . . . Have you checked the gov linkage setup IE the positiom of the gov arm on the shaft coming out of the block? That can also easy result in an overrev situation. I also forget (sorry!), but does the throttle control have any effect on speed at all? IE, can you reduce it to idle, but it overrevs when you bring the contol up, or?? Also, if you push the throttle plate/linkage closed by hand, can you reduce speed? If so, I doubt a carb replacement will do much, but if you cannot, then it may well help.
> 
> Also, note the metal rod with the "U" shaped bend in Ziggy's second photo. This is the speed adjustment point on these engines. After setting the gov link, you bend this open or closed to set the top governed speed.
> 
> I can't see anything that stands out as wrong on your linkages from your photos, but they are showing up verry blurry here, so it is really hard to be certain. Any chance you can attach some higher res images?


Hi Tadawson. I find if I double click on the images April 28, the resulting images are extremely clear. So, I doubt that I can do any better. Can you reference for me on my photos where the "throttle plate/linkage" is so that I can try your suggestion?

Thanks.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

The throttle plate is the one closest to the engine in the carb (the choke is the outer), and the linkage that should be connected to it is the one going to the gov arm. Moving that by hand will give you direct control over the throttle, and will tell you if the carb is working correctly or not - you should be able to pusb it all the way to idle . . .


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

tadawson said:


> The throttle plate is the one closest to the engine in the carb (the choke is the outer), and the linkage that should be connected to it is the one going to the gov arm. Moving that by hand will give you direct control over the throttle, and will tell you if the carb is working correctly or not - you should be able to pusb it all the way to idle . . .


Hi,

These are two videos that best explain my problems with my snow blower. I hope this makes things clear. Any suggestions would be welcomed before I throw in the towel to this snow blower that has been in my family for two generations.










20220511171357.MTS


Shared with Dropbox




www.dropbox.com












20220511170705.MTS


Shared with Dropbox




www.dropbox.com





Thanks.


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## PhilThefarmer (Dec 21, 2020)

distrbd said:


> I don't have a solution for you but what I don't get is how difficult it would be for a repair shop to open up an engine and repair a bad governor, after all this should be their bread and butter unless it is too time consuming and too involved for a repair shop to refuse the fix.
> I went through the same experience with my Ariens (2013 model) that had a bad governor, the repair shop owner also did not want to go near it, I have never done this type of repair myself but you'd think it's an easy task for a "pro" shop but I guess I was wrong.


it could also be because, since the engine is old, there are risk of breaking stuff, and shop don't wanna deal with broken bolt, since they will have to charge more to the customer


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## PhilThefarmer (Dec 21, 2020)

Kneed2No said:


> Hi,
> 
> These are two videos that best explain my problems with my snow blower. I hope this makes things clear. Any suggestions would be welcomed before I throw in the towel to this snow blower that has been in my family for two generations.
> 
> ...


just wondering shouldn't there be a second linkage that goes from the governor to the place where the spring is attached too? maybe not in the same hole, but on my hs 80, there are 2 linkage,


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

To the OP . . . it's not definitive, but the gov linkage looks outnof adjustment. Every Tec I have had from that vintage has had the little tab that the linkage attaches to that is held onto the gov arm coming off almost straight, and your's isn't . . . Also, the adjustment loop in on the link atop the carb looks opened more that typical as well . . . gotta wonder if someone was trying to "hot rod" it before you got it . . .

I've mentioned the gov adjustment procedure a couple of times, but don't recall you ever confirming that you have checked it. (I also never see it move, but then again, in the vid, the engine never seems to come up to speed either . . .)

To Phil, the spring from the arm to the carb is the connection you are looking for. Oh these with the throttle on the handlebars, the spring is not on the throttle control proper, but moves to here, and I am pretty certain that this is correct. The throttle moves the arm atop the carb, and the "bendy loop" adjusts how much tension it puts on the gov link to set speed, via the spring. The hard link from the gov to the throttle plate controls the carb . . .

I wish I could get hands-on with this thing . . .

It also seems to be stumbling pretty bad, and never really clears and comes to a stable speed in your vid. Also no memtion of where the throttle control is set when thks was taken, or any attempt to move it.


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

tadawson, What state are you in? 
"I wish I could get hands-on with this thing . . ."


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

Kneed2No said:


> tadawson, What state are you in?
> "I wish I could get hands-on with this thing . . ."


I am in MA.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Texas at the moment, Michigan other times . . .


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

Update: I got a new carburetor. The choke lever is different. See the photos. My best bet would be cutting off the lever on the new one and attaching the old lever to the base. Any ideas as how to do this? P1170028 is the old one, P1170029 is the new one, and P1170030 is the cover.


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

distrbd said:


> I don't have a solution for you but what I don't get is how difficult it would be for a repair shop to open up an engine and repair a bad governor, after all this should be their bread and butter unless it is too time consuming and too involved for a repair shop to refuse the fix.
> I went through the same experience with my Ariens (2013 model) that had a bad governor, the repair shop owner also did not want to go near it, I have never done this type of repair myself but you'd think it's an easy task for a "pro" shop but I guess I was wrong.


I don't understand a shop not wanting to do the work! These engines are easy straight forward in design. If I was close I would be glad to do it.


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

TX610 said:


> I don't understand a shop not wanting to do the work! These engines are easy straight forward in design. If I was close I would be glad to do it.


I appreciate that.


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## distrbd (Dec 8, 2021)

Kneed2No said:


> I appreciate that.


And so did I.


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

To use clichés, I threw in the towel and bit the bullet. I gave up on repairing the snow blower. I am trying to save parts that I might use for my Toro and a generator that both use Tecumseh engine and I ordered a new Ariens Deluxe 24".

I am trying to take the belt off to perhaps use on my Toro or on my new Ariens Deluxe 24" and am having difficulty with it. I could not find anything on Youtube for something this old (maybe 1974). Any clues or links for this? It may not be worthwhile. The old one is 7HP. I hope that I won't be disappointed with the new one.

Thanks


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Kneed2No said:


> To use clichés, I threw in the towel and bit the bullet. I gave up on repairing the snow blower. I am trying to save parts that I might use for my Toro and a generator that both use Tecumseh engine and I ordered a new Ariens Deluxe 24".
> 
> I am trying to take the belt off to perhaps use on my Toro or on my new Ariens Deluxe 24" and am having difficulty with it. I could not find anything on Youtube for something this old (maybe 1974). Any clues or links for this? It may not be worthwhile. The old one is 7HP. I hope that I won't be disappointed with the new one.
> 
> Thanks


Why weren't you able to fix it?
I was lead to believe it would be easy?


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## Kneed2No (May 21, 2013)

ChrisJ said:


> Why weren't you able to fix it?
> I was lead to believe it would be easy?


Not for lack of trying. I think it stalled out because it used up all of the gasoline in the carb bowl while it was surging. It is not a rescue operation now. It is more of a salvage operation. I bought a replacement.


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