# Ariens 10000 series finds a new home



## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

After restoring my Dad's 5 HP 10000 series last spring (which he purchased new in 1968), I have been on the lookout for another Ariens (10000 series or 70's vintage twin stick 924 series) machine in decent condition for my next project.

In my neck of the woods, they are not near as plentiful as in the US of A and rarely, if ever at the curb with a free sign on them.

I found one yesterday that I could not resist in the small town I grew up in an hour away from here. The gentleman I bought it from had owned it for 25 years and had purchased it from an "older guy" who bought it new. For those 25 years, the machine was used about 6 times a year at his cottage. He has purchased a new 28" machine with all the current "safety" features, as he was concerned that others (son in laws etc) would be operating the machine in the future. The machine has been maintained and definitely stored indoors all it's life.

The Ariens is a 1974 model (last year for the 10000 series), 24" bucket with the original HM 80 Tecumseh 8 HP engine. Engine runs great, no surging or smoking, auger gear box seals and bushings were replaced in the last couple of years.

I haven't done anything with it yet, other than spraying all the hardware with Liquid Wrench.

I paid $225.00 for it, which I feel is a fair price for my area. He offered to delivered it, which saved me the hassle of borrowing a friends truck.

I'm thinking I will totally dismantle machine, replace any bad bushings or bearings, hardware, gas lines, perform valve job, clean carb etc. Remove rust inside chute and bucket, sand, prime and paint, but leave the original paint on the rest of machine. I think it will clean up pretty good with rubbing compound and wax.

What are your thoughts on this plan, or would you repaint entire machine?

Some photos from the ad on Kijjiji:


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

That definitely looks well worth some love!


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

ultimately i would like to have one or two minty '73-'74 10000 series blowers, with the upscale chromed handles! probably the best of the first and second series. 

how do repaints actually hold up? i see some refurbs that look factory fresh, but can't imagine the paint holds up like the factory, or that the rust removal is 100%.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

That's exactly what we used to have, just the 7HP . . . Went away to college, and my father somehow forgot to refill oil on a change and locked up the engine (or so it is claimed). Very mechanical man, but never bothered to look to see if it could be repaired/repowered . . . I _still_ miss that thing! Never found anything it could not handle! One of these days . . .


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

You got yourself a real beauty!!!


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## peterk (Apr 30, 2014)

All the 10,000 series are good and last forever. This year was the first time we got some snow so I tried out the 1973 I got a few years ago. First year the left lever was on top. If you are used to the older ones you will have some learning time. I used it the first 2 hours with hand cramping, Went back and got one of the old ones for the second 2 hours. Nice to have one though! Most of us never have enough!! Great looking machine!!


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Actually, the lever on top is the _newer_ years, and required you to hold it to get the machine to move. The older ones with the lever under were squeeze to stop, and presented a very real risk of the blower running away if you fell. Myself, with many years on a '74 (top lever), I never felt any effort squeezing or holding the lever, and the added safety of no potential runaways make the 73/74 the only 10000 series machines I would consider.

(You can verify the lever placement and function on Scott's Ariens page.)


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Parts have arrived for the new project:
head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, carb kit, axle bushings, impeller bearing, spare belt, muffler and hardware, gas line.












I spent a couple minutes with mild degreaser and rubbing compound to see how the paint responds to some love. 

I am only going to repaint the inside of the chute and auger housing and will leave the rest original (battle scars and all), should clean up pretty well.


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

The color is richer after rubbing compound.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Started to disassemble the machine today, removed the chute and engine.

The axle bushings definitely need replacing, no play or noise from impeller bearing, but will replace it anyway. Resprayed hardware with Liquid Wrench.

Tuesday is supposed to be warm (17 C), so going to apply degreaser and power wash the engine and machine to remove some of the grime built up over 47 years of use.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

What a great machine! Looking forward to see the refurb when completed.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Cleaned up the gas tank inside and out and the belly pan. 
The inside of the tank was clean as a whistle except for a few black particles of debris. The previous owner said he always drained the tank before he stored it for the summer.















































I don't plan on repainting the exterior of this machine, but I did a complete repaint on my other 10000 series last year.

If you are wondering how close Dupli-color DE1620 Chevy Orange is to the original Ariens paint colour, I placed the inside of the belly pan (not faded) next to the repainted auger housing I did last year. 
Pretty close match.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Cleaned up the gas tank inside and out and the belly pan.
> The inside of the tank was clean as a whistle except for a few black particles of debris. The previous owner said he always drained the tank before he stored it for the summer.
> 
> View attachment 177590
> ...


Looks Great! 
What do you use as primer for Dupli-color DE1620 Chevy Orange?
Thanks!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Thanks
I used a red oxide primer


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I am showing steps and photos that may seem obvious and perhaps not necessary to the guys that have done dozens of these rebuilds.
However, I am trying to document the process the best I can, for newbies like myself, who are not as experienced and may not have refurbished a snow blower before.

Any tips or recommendations are most welcome.

Split the machine and gave it a good power wash to get rid of some of the grease and grime.




































Dismantled the Tecumseh HM 80 in preparation for carb rebuild and valve job.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I had soaked all the hardware on the machine and engine several times with a good penetrant (like Liquid Wrench) over a couple of weeks. Have not had any issues removing any bolts so far.

I also take a lot of photos of the dismantling process, so I hopefully know how it all goes back together.

I tag and bag all hardware and try to store all small items in one organized area to prevent lost parts.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I think your doing very good ...

Since it is pretty well apart, I would inspect the axle bushings, as well as the auger shaft end bucket bushings .... now would be the time to replace them if they need it.

If your not going to do any sand and prime and paint, I would at least pick up a can of acrylic clear coat, spray any bare metal areas, as it will give some protection while keeping its patina.

I personally don't like the chains on the lawn tires, I take the wheels off, clean and paint the rims, and install the XTrac. But if you don't mind the chains, and they work for you, you can bag and tape the mounted tires, clean up the rims, and still prime and paint them with the tires on, just takes a bit of time. ... it will give them years of protection, and look much better.

Make sure you top off the auger gearbox ( I use 75W140 gear lube.)

Inspect the friction disc and clean the drive plate, lube the friction disc shaft, as well as all chains and gears.

Prior to re-assembly, check and inspect everything .....


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Thanks oneacer, your restorations are second to none.

I plan on completing the engine first and then will tackle the disassembly of the tractor and then the blower assembly.

The axle bushings need replacing. I have new axle bushings, auger bushings and impeller bearing ready to install. The friction disc is in good shape, but I do have a spare if needed. Full clean up of the tractor assembly, with new grease and will drain and replace the auger gear box gear oil.

I plan on only repainting the inside of the bucket and chute, (flap disc and grinder to remove rust, red oxide primer and paint). Will metal prep a couple areas and touch up the paint or maybe consider your recommendation of spraying with clear coat, hadn't thought of that option.

Going to run the turf tires and chains, but will probably have to repaint the rims.

Thanks for your input.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

The 10000 series are my preference, as I have 3 of them, along with my Yardman 7100 and a 10HP Craftsman. I sold all the other blowers I had last year.

This time of the year is a great time to tackle those refurbishing projects ... I am finishing a 10000 series project myself, as well as in the process of restoring my older Ryan Core Plug Aerator, which I picked up cheap, which runs great, but needs a cosmetic restore.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I had assumed the engine had a Tecumseh carb, but the factory carb on this engine is a Walbro LME 49. The inside of the carb was very clean, and components look to be in good condition. The O ring on the main jet needle and float bowl gasket were shot. I was able to use the O ring from the Tec. rebuild kit I had ordered and have a new Stens float bowl gasket on order (2 3/8" OD). 

Rebuild kits for these carbs are harder to find and expensive, especially if you live in Canada, about $32.00 CAD Plus $22.00 CAD for shipping. I am glad this carb was in good condition.









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Carb ready to install once the float bowl gasket arrives










Has anyone found a cheap Chinese direct replacement for these Walbro LME 49 carbs, that will match up to the original linkages and mounts?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The previous owner had installed a CJ8 plug instead of the recommended J8C or RJ19LM.











When I pulled the head, it was pretty carboned up. I don't know if the incorrect CJ8 plug could have contributed to some of the carbon and oily residue?
The engine did not smoke at all prior to tear down.




















Cleaned the head and valves up. Lapped and lashed the valves

Initial #'s: Exhaust - .010" Intake - .009"

After lapping: Exhaust - .006" Intake - .008"

Final lash: Exhaust - .010" Intake - .009"


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Primed and painted engine tins, gas tank mounts and hardware, using Trem clad Recreational White, which seems to be a close match to the original paint colour.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Cleaned up and painted the rims


















Cleaned up the handle bars with some degreaser, fine steel wool and glass cleaner and then some chrome polish


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I love my 10000 series ... one of them has the Ratchet Wheel kit that was available as an option back then ... love that feature, spins on a dime


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I removed the axles yesterday to replace the axle bushings. As Jack Mels advised it was easy to remove, just remove the the large pin on the differential control and the small roll pin on the other end of the axle.


















Having the grease fitting on the axle shaft helped to keep everything lubed over the 47 years of use.

















Degreased and cleaned up parts and shafts


























The bronze bushings were paper thin and tore apart when removing. Replaced just in time.




















Painted outer axle shafts and differential control knob


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> I removed the axles yesterday to replace the axle bushings. As Jack Mels advised it was easy to remove, just remove the the large pin on the differential control and the small roll pin on the other end of the axle.
> 
> View attachment 178200
> View attachment 178201
> ...


Very well done!
The bushing carriers on mine are damaged ... and will be replaced by the ones on my 924028.
I noticed that the bushings are not placed dead center in the middle of the carriers. I was surprised and must remember in what position the triangular shaped carriers must be reinstalled ... or is this just my imagination?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Good eye, I never noticed that, but it sure looks to be the case.

I will make sure I re install in same position as they were in originally.

Edit: These photos were taken with the tractor body in the service position.

For reference when standing behind handle bars:

Left side










Right side


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

looks good. pretty cool how they have the differential setup in that. the differential is definitely a nice option to have. i have considered shopping for a newer ariens deluxe for that option or find a older mtd and swap in the differential setup i already have sitting around.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Good eye, I never noticed that, but it sure looks to be the case.
> 
> I will make sure I re install in same position as they were in originally.
> 
> ...


Your pics confuse me ... but sometimes it doesn't take much to do so LOL!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

These photos are with the tractor body horizonal, as it would be sitting on it's tires.
I have placed the carriers with the serial #'s positioned in the same position as they came off the unit. 
Not sure it matters, but I will be re installing them in the same orientation as they were originally.

Sorry for the confusion 

Left side











Right Side


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> These photos are with the tractor body horizonal, as it would be sitting on it's tires.
> I have placed the carriers with the serial #'s positioned in the same position as they came off the unit.
> Not sure it matters, but I will be re installing them in the same orientation as they were originally.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update @Ziggy65!
It is apparent that the slimmest side of the triangular bushing carrier point towards the rear of the tractor.
BTW side pics of my 910002 show the carriers in the same position as yours.
Tomorrow I will be "borrowing" the axle bushing carriers from my 924028 ... and will look closely at their positions.
I'll get back with feedback.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

quexpress said:


> Thanks for the update @Ziggy65!
> It is apparent that the slimmest side of the triangular bushing carrier point towards the rear of the tractor.
> BTW side pics of my 910002 show the carriers in the same position as yours.
> Tomorrow I will be "borrowing" the axle bushing carriers from my 924028 ... and will look closely at their positions.
> I'll get back with feedback.


Good to know, I suspect the correct orientation does matter then.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

it would big time. if you move where the axle sits you also change how the long of a chain you need. i almost wonder if the measurement between each side is slightly different so they can also be used to take slop out of the chain if needed. it would definitely explain why they didn't just put the bushing right in the middle.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Degreased and cleaned up the tractor body and mechanicals. Used rubbing compound to refresh the paint a little. 

















As I am not planning on painting the exterior of the machine, (only the inside of the bucket and chute, augers and impeller) I purchased a gallon of Allis Chalmers farm implement paint (on sale for half price, basically the price of a quart). I will also use it on my other blowers, to touch up future gravel rash in the chute and impeller housing. I plan on applying it with a brush and will also touch up any small areas that need attention.
I wanted to compare A-C colour match to the Dupli color Chevy engine orange I have used before and also to see how well the brushed on paint job wears compared to a sprayed paint job in the impeller housing and inside of the chute..










I touched up the paint where the engine mounts and handle bars wore the paint to bare metal. Very close match to the original paint colour, but I would give a slight nod to the Dupli-color 1620 Chevy engine orange as a little better match to the original Ariens colour.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

crazzywolfie said:


> it would big time. if you move where the axle sits you also change how the long of a chain you need. i almost wonder if the measurement between each side is slightly different so they can also be used to take slop out of the chain if needed. it would definitely explain why they didn't just put the bushing right in the middle.


@crazzywolfie
IMHO if we move where the axle sits, it not only affect the chain slop. It also moves the differential gear teeth away or closer to the sprocket gears.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

On this series of machine, the chain and sprockets are not affected by the axle placement. 
The issue would be with the meshing of the gears as seen in the photo on the left and possibly the axle shaft rubbing where it passes through the bracket.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> On this series of machine, the chain and sprockets are not affected by the axle placement.
> The issue would be with the meshing of the gears as seen in the photo on the left and possibly the axle shaft rubbing where it passes through the bracket.
> 
> View attachment 178255


I stand corrected about the chain slop. Good call!


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

ok i thought your differential may have been chain driven like the 1 i have. with gears like that you definitely want them to mesh correctly so they don't wear funny


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Good to know, I suspect the correct orientation does matter then.


@Ziggy65

On my 924, the slimmest part points upwards. That is different than what is on my 10,000 series.

On both of my 10,000 series, the slimmest part of the axle bushing carriers faced towards the rear of the tractor. I believe that the carriers on both of your 10,000 series are oriented in the same way.

I will therefore make sure to position them in the same fashion (slim portion towards the rear) when re-assembling my 910021.

Thank you


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

quexpress said:


> @Ziggy65
> 
> On my 924, the slimmest part points upwards. That is different than what is on my 10,000 series.
> 
> ...


Hi quexpress

I removed the auger assembly from the bucket the other day and noticed there were 2 flat washers on the shaft by each outer bushing carriers. The parts diagram for 1973 and 1974 machines only show 1 washer installed on each side (2 in total). 

I know that the 1972 and older 10000 series have 1 washer there and one between the gear box and and the rake (auger) on both sides (4 washers total).

The previous owner installed new auger bushings and gear box seals in the past and I want to make sure he installed the washers correctly, or if they should be installed like the earlier machines.

I think you have a 1973 10000 series, would you be able to check if you have 2 washers on each of the outer ends of the shaft and/or if you have a flat washer on each side of the gear box on the auger shaft?

Your help would be much appreciated.

Thanks


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Hi quexpress
> 
> I removed the auger assembly from the bucket the other day and noticed there were 2 flat washers on the shaft by each outer bushing carriers. The parts diagram for 1973 and 1974 machines only show 1 washer installed on each side (2 in total).
> 
> ...


@Ziggy65
I'm a complete newbie with these snowblowers. I'm sure that more experienced guys would know the answer.
I'm still debating whether mine is a 1973 or 1974. It's probably a 1973 ½ LOL.
I seem to remember that there was a total of 2 flat washers: one at each end of the auger shaft (none close to the gearbox).
It's quite a coincidence that you ask me this because, after cleaning both auger rakes this afternoon, I realized that the holes for the shear bolts are elongated. I therefore decided to dismantle the ones on the 924 "organ donor". These are a bit better. I believe that the 924 also has only one washer at each end. I'll check tomorrow to confirm.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I reinstalled the axles and differential, the bushing carriers were reinstalled in the same orientation as they were originally. 
The interior components were cleaned and lubed, rims and tires installed as well as the handle bars

These 10000 series machines always impress me with how well they are engineered and the quality of their parts, simple to repair and work on.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

@Ziggy65 
I checked in the garage and there were definitely only 2 washers ... one at each end of the 1973 auger shaft.
Note: Both of my 10,000 series have 910995 Sno-Thro attachments. The 1971 has 4 washers on the shaft (1 at each end and 1 on each side of the gear case). The 1973 has only 1 washer at each end of the shaft.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

quexpress said:


> @Ziggy65
> I checked in the garage and there were definitely only 2 washers ... one at each end of the 1973 auger shaft.
> Note: Both of my 10,000 series have 910995 Sno-Thro attachments. The 1971 has 4 washers on the shaft (1 at each end and 1 on each side of the gear case). The 1973 has only 1 washer at each end of the shaft.





Thanks for taking the time to check your machines, much appreciated. My Sno-Thro attachment is a 910017.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Thanks for taking the time to check your machines, much appreciated. My Sno-Thro attachment is a 910017.


You are most welcome. BTW I'm learning a lot from your posts and from others on this forum.

Note: In the 10,000 series manual, for Sno-Thro 910995, I noticed on page 7 that Ariens lists only 2 washers (64046) for the 1973 model ... but for the 1971 model on page 12, they list 4 washers (64046).
I can only guess that they decided in 1973 that the 2 middle washers were not needed.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Auger/impeller assembly have been removed from the blower housing. 


































The auger bushings were in great shape, previous owner had said they had been replaced in the past.



















Changed the oil in the auger gear box, looks like it had not been changed recently. No signs of metal particles in the oil though.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Very nice! Looks like the previous owner took care of it.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The bowl gasket for the Walbro LME carb finally arrived from California, so I reassembled the carb and engine.

I only repainted the gas tank mounting brackets and the tins on top of the engine. 

The engine and remaining parts are original paint. Degreaser , rubbing compound and small touch ups here and there and a finish coat of wax.

I think it came out pretty well.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Mounted the engine onto the tractor today, a bit of finagling involved to get the engine on the studs because of the long oil drain tube and the rear mounted support for the chute mechanism.
I also installed the tach/hour meter. I had done the 4 turns around the spark plug wire and then run the tach lead out by the gas line before assembling the engine yesterday, as there is no access to the spark plug wire (other than on top of the engine) once the recoil assembly is installed. I then mounted the tach on the aluminum Ariens name plate on the handle bars, like I have on my other 10000 series machine. Then tie wrapped the excess wire and located it just under the recoil housing.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Metal prepped and applied primer to the inside of the chute and auger housing. Note the scorched paint on the side of the chute from a previous brazed repair to the ring gear of the chute. Will have to address this as I intend to maintain as much of the original exterior paint as I can.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Removed the impeller bearing, I think it was the original, looks to be in decent shape, but will replace with the new bearing I ordered.



















Degreased, metal prepped and primed the auger rakes, gear box and impeller, scraper bar and skids.




































Drilled 2 of the impeller blades for impeller kit, and put together the kit for installation after painting. 
I debated whether to install an impeller kit, not sure if it will make much of an improvement. The impeller gap is about 1/4" on this machine, it has a different impeller design than my 1969 Ariens, which has about 1/8" gap and no impeller kit.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Great job .... I am addicted to restoring old equipment .... Lol, my work garage is full again.

( Those WorkMate foldable tables are the best ... I have one of the older original ones)


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Thanks Oneacer
Workmate table does come in handy and I like that when folded it takes up very little room. I've had this one over 30 years.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

Well done Ziggy, looking great Same here on the workmate.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Removed the impeller bearing, I think it was the original, looks to be in decent shape, but will replace with the new bearing I ordered.
> 
> View attachment 178450
> View attachment 178451
> ...


Very nice! 

Where did you get the steel flat strap for your impeller kit?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I found two small L shaped brackets in my hardware/fastener/junk drawer, that I flattened and cut to size.

I think they came from my father's fastener stash that I inherited when he passed, as they were in a box full of small hinges that I remember he had in the garage.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> I found two small L shaped brackets in my hardware/fastener/junk drawer, that I flattened and cut to size.
> 
> I think they came from my father's fastener stash that I inherited when he passed, as they were in a box full of small hinges that I remember he had in the garage.


Cool! 
I'm heading for the hardware store! Thanks!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lol .... you get to be our age, with years of saving everything, you have your own hardware store .... 😄

I remove all nots, bolts and screws etc. before I discard anything ...... actually, I suppose I could stop now ..... 😃😄😁


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Painted the inside if the auger housing and chute, as well as the rakes, impeller, gear case, scraper bar and skids.

3 thin brushed on coats spaced 2 hours apart and within 8 hours as per the instructions on the paint can. Definitely easier and less time consuming to use spray paint, but I want to compare the wear of this paint against the spray job I did last year on my other 10000 series. I can use it to touch up small areas on the outside of the machine as well.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Your doing a great job .... 👌


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Your coming up to the best part of mine soon, the final assembly.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Painted the inside if the auger housing and chute, as well as the rakes, impeller, gear case, scraper bar and skids.
> 
> 3 thin brushed on coats spaced 2 hours apart and within 8 hours as per the instructions on the paint can. Definitely easier and less time consuming to use spray paint, but I want to compare the wear of this paint against the spray job I did last year on my other 10000 series. I can use it to touch up small areas on the outside of the machine as well.
> 
> ...


  Very nice paint result ... very shiny.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> Your coming up to the best part of mine soon, the final assembly.





quexpress said:


> Very nice paint result ... very shiny.


Thanks, yes this farm implement paint is very glossy, the photos were taken 24 hours after painting and the paint was totally dry to the touch.

Final assembly is the best part of these projects, when you finally see all your efforts in the finished product. What I need to do know is show some patience, and let this farm implement paint set up and cure for at least a week or two.

I still have some exterior paint touch up to do on the bucket and address the burnt paint area on the chute. 
As well as yard work, grass cutting, interior/exterior detail, including waxing of both vehicles, cleaning house and garage windows and glass panels on three decks etc. etc. etc.. 
So I should have no trouble keeping busy while waiting for paint to cure.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

LOL, I have so much to do, I don't even bother making a list ... Its all in my head and I choose what I would like to on any given day.

If I forget something, then it must not have been that important anyway.

Ahhh, the joys of retirement ...


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Did some paint touch ups to the chute and auger housing.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Paint has cured for about 2 weeks, so did final treatment of the chute and bucket with rubbing compound and then a coat of wax. Installed the scraper bar and skid shoes.

80% original paint


















The bucket was painted on lower edge of scraper bar area and lower area around skids, the majority of the exterior bucket paint is original.




































Installed the impeller kit, but did not tighten the hardware, will adjust and tighten once I get the auger/impeller installed in the housing. I elongated the holes of the rubber pieces, so I have some adjustment.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Ziggy, .... you do some real nice work ..... You have a nice garage work area as well .....


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Eye candy! Very nice!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I installed the auger/impeller assembly (including new impeller bearing) in the blower housing. Oiled the auger bushings and pumped low temp snowmobile grease into the zerks on the auger shafts until grease was coming out of both ends (actually took quite a bit of grease) and rotated the rakes on the shafts. Installed new correct shear bolts. The grooved impeller stub, cam locks, auger engagement assembly and the chute ring were also greased.

















One of the captive nuts for bolting the tractor to the blower housing had a previously broken retaining clip, so I taped it in place as the previous owner had done. Tape did the job as everything tightened up as it should.










I replaced the small flat metal pieces I had made up for the impeller kit with large flat washers. 
I had drilled the holes in the recessed area of the impeller blades as it gave better access to tighten the bolts. I didn't like how the rubber would raise up when the bolts were tightened and made it more difficult to adjust the flaps for a perfect fit. I found the washers worked much better. I think I have them adjusted just shy of touching the impeller housing, but have sprayed housing with Fluid Film for break in just in case.


















Bolted the blower housing to the tractor and installed the chute control rods and chute.


































Next - fill with go - go juice and hope for no gas leaks, start it up and get the carb dialed in. 
Run her around the driveway in all gears and wear in the impeller kit, hopefully everything will function as it should.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Gassed her up and no leaks.

Started up right away with the electric starter and the recommended Walbro LME carb settings (1 1/4 turn out on both main and idle mixture screws). Took some time playing with the mixture screws to get it dialed in, but it is now running very well. The previous owner had said the machine would slowly loose RPM, had to adjust the throttle control a little to prevent the linkage from moving off of full throttle.

I ran the auger for several minutes to wear in the impeller kit (with Fluid Film), happy to report no paint loss in the impeller housing. Ran it around the driveway through all the gears and it worked flawlessly. 

I don't think any neighbours reported me to the funny farm for blowing imaginary snow on a warm (20 C) May afternoon, I think the wife was tempted.

I really enjoyed the time spent in the garage working on this project, but with the nice weather and the end to the lockdown fast approaching, it is a good time to finish it.

I am pleased with the final results and happy that there were no unexpected surprises. I figured it was a well looked after machine that just needed a little love to get it looking and running better.

Thanks for following along, I welcome any questions or suggestions.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Very nice job. 🍻


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I made a video of the machine running, sorry for the quality, no Oscar for me! 

Full Throttle









Idle

















Wish I had some snow to give her a work out, but here is my 1969 10000 series last winter


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Very nice!!! You've set the bar quite high for newbies such as I.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Thanks, I am looking forward to following your project, with your attention to detail so far, you will have a fantastic outcome.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Nice outcome, looks great. 

They only other thing I would have done is put on some nice XTrac, and moved over to the Poly Roller Skids, or at least the Poly Slide skids. I have not used steel skids on any unit that comes my way in many years.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Ziggy, I lurked on this one, love to follow the rebuild threads. Great work on this one, you have skills that I could only hope to match. I'm sure it will work very well for you in the years to come.
What's next?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Thanks Dave, don't kid yourself, your detailed work on the Honda restoration is impressive, you will have a fantastic machine when done.

No plans for/if there will be another project, but I am always checking the ads for what's for sale in the area.

It would be an older machine (60's -80's), and probably orange, red or green in colour.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Parts have arrived for the new project:
> head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, carb kit, axle bushings, impeller bearing, spare belt, *muffler *and hardware, gas line.
> 
> View attachment 177432


@Ziggy65
What motivated you to purchase a new muffler? Is it because of the age of the muffler or because it was damaged? 
IMHO these Tecumseh flatheads can be quite noisy when compared to an OVH engine.
A curious guy would like to know.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The original muffler was starting to rust out internally, I could have used it, but figured I would order a new one since I was ordering other parts at the time.
When I restored my father's 10000 series, I replaced the muffler as well. After 50 years, figured it was time.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

We got about 7" of snow on the weekend so I brought out the 1974 Ariens. I really like using this machine, runs very well, the 8HP is strong and the differential is so much nicer than the straight axle on my 5/24. 
Did the 250' foot U shaped driveway, patch of front lawn around my bird feeder, 3' high piles of snow I pulled off the porch roof, a 10' wide path around the house and the dog run. 
My wife was good enough to snap a few pics of the machine in action, thought I would add them to this thread to show the machine at work.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I love my 2 10000 series ... I took one out last storm, the 10ML60D, with the ratchet differential, XTrac and a Predator 212 ... A treat to run, best auto zero turn system I ever ran, blows great.


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

I appreciate that you're putting it to work instead of relegating it to a quiet retirement as a display model. If it's no longer blowing snow then it's not a snowblower. 



Ziggy65 said:


> We got about 7" of snow on the weekend so I brought out the 1974 Ariens. I really like using this machine, runs very well, the 8HP is strong and the differential is so much nicer than the straight axle on my 5/24.
> Did the 250' foot U shaped driveway, patch of front lawn around my bird feeder, 3' high piles of snow I pulled off the porch roof, a 10' wide path around the house and the dog run.
> My wife was good enough to snap a few pics of the machine in action, thought I would add them to this thread to show the machine at work.
> 
> View attachment 188354


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

Ziggy65 said:


> We got about 7" of snow on the weekend so I brought out the 1974 Ariens


Fun to paint the the trees aint it, good stuff


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Oneacer said:


> I love my 2 10000 series ... I took one out last storm, the 10ML60D, with the ratchet differential, XTrac and a Predator 212 ... A treat to run, best auto zero turn system I ever ran, blows great.


Do you think that such a ratchet differential system could be retrofitted to another 10000 series unit?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Thing is, is that they are extremely rare nowadays.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Oneacer said:


> Thing is, is that they are extremely rare nowadays.


I would imagine but wonder if it would be quite straight forward to swap onto another later 10000 series.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would imagine if you came across one, just to use that entire unit.

If you had an axle drive setup, and not the drive unit, I would imagine there would be a way to adapt it in some fashion.


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## Benzeno (12 mo ago)

Ziggy65 said:


> I had soaked all the hardware on the machine and engine several times with a good penetrant (like Liquid Wrench) over a couple of weeks. Have not had any issues removing any bolts so far.
> 
> I also take a lot of photos of the dismantling process, so I hopefully know how it all goes back together.
> 
> ...


















I am going to replace the auger bearing on my '74, and want to know if the two spring pins need to be removed to get the claw thing off. Can't find a video anywhere showing how to do it! Great thread BTW


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