# 1971 5hp Ariens 922003



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Picked up a little 5hp Ariens dates to 70/71. Looks like it is almost all there although the carb linkage etc has been messed with. Upon checking it out, I pulled the plug, put a little mystery oil down there, a few pulls on a tired recoil, felt nice and free. Dropped a little gas in the plug hole and it sputtered. That was enough for me, bought it.

Pulled the carb when I got home, crusty. Blew out the airways, stuck it back on thinking it would at least sputter again. But No spark this time. 

Now it has a wire coming to the carb area, which I assume will ground out the ignition if you don't have a key perhaps (did this model 922003 have a key back then?) It connects to what use to be the throttle control that sticks out the side of the white box. So plugged in or not, no spark. I realize I'm going to have to some work to get it up to scratch, I just wanted to hear it run.

























-Forrest


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum :welcome:

Nice score !!


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Welcome to the forum :welcome:
> 
> Nice score !!


Thanks. Any idea about that white wire?
If I disconnect it should I have spark?

Thanks much,
-Forrest


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Yes, if you disconnect it you should have spark but have it handy to ground so you can kill the engine if it starts.


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Thanks Kiss4aFrog,
Now to try to one of the frozen head bolts out to remedy the recoil. Lots of weeds and stuff in there, I think some mice made a nest in there.

I got the bottom two screws out and pulled the bottom out a tad and a chunk of metal dropped out, I think it might be the piece that engages the flywheel. Nothing is ever easy. lol.


----------



## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Thats a nice compact unit.

Try soaking the bolt threads with PB blaster for a day or 2. Also smack the heads with a hammer.


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Thanks Scrappy,
I think it is a cool machine. I got the bolt out after heating pounding, cracking a socket (over dramatic) Pulled off the head, look fairly clean, cleaned up the head bolts. Pulled off the recoil cover. Cleaned out the mouse nest or whatever was in there, blew some composed air all over. 

That metal piece is indeed the part that sticks out to catch the flywheel, I put it back, didn't seem very well seated, but it worked. But no spark. (with wire on or off)

Now I see another wire grounded under the gas tank area that goes into the drive area which I haven't opened up yet, wondering if there is some safety feature that might have it grounded out.

Funny how when I went to check it out initially it had spark, so far I've only made it worse, lol.
-Forrest


----------



## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Forrest, I think that model has an interlock setup inside the top rear of the tractor body. You may need to check that out to have the correct handle positions to get spark to start. If the gear is out of neutral, the auger engage lever set to engage, the interlock won't let the machine get spark. Could also be hung up in the ground out mode some how, especially if your mice were around it:smiley-confused009:
Here's a link for the 22000 series parts.
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/PRM%2022000.pdf


----------



## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

With both wires disconnected, it should have spark. (me I would disable everything except for the kill switch) But I drive without a cell phone or GPS.

If you do have spark, your half way there to getting to the magneto, and do a little maintenance. 

Get this running and everything else checked out such as belts, and drive, and augers, gear lube for the auger case. You will have one fine compact unit.


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Thanks guys,
I should have (and will) find out how to operate the machine before I pull my hair out, I'm just get too excited about working on it.

I took off the bottom plate to see what's in there and jtclays you are right there is a switch in there, but I couldn't figure out what it was for.

I remounted the throttle control on the bars that was mounted half crooked thinking it might have something to do with the ground. Nothing, but then I pulled in the left side clutch lever and it sparked, fairly healthy spark. So I am going to read those manuals, thanks for the link. 

I do think I'm going to need a replacement carb, this one needs at the least a rebuild kit and a side jet (air?). You can buy a new for around $17 on eBay, anybody try one? I see some real cheapies being sold out of asia.

--------------------------------------------

This past winter here in Massachusetts we had the snowiest on record. I had a 5hp Craftsman that I got at a yard sale and it kicked butt, but a lot of broken parts, I was ordering stuff every week and fixing on 20 degree days. Everything on it is plastic and what may have been strong enough when it was built is now fragile.
I have always loved Ariens machines since I was a kid and my pal Jack and I used his families Ariens to make $ doing driveways.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I am more into honda and yamaha snowblowers, but I've had quite a few older ariens and still have 2 (both 24 inch, one with an 8HP Tecumseh upgrade on it and the other one with the original 5HP Tecumseh dual shaft).
I got to say, they were well built, a real solid product. :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009: :smiley-confused009:


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Another question. I don't see any information on the engine as far as model, serial etc. I know it's a 5hp Tecumseh. But so far only going on looks to try to determine a proper carb replacement. Searching around it seems it is possibly an H50.

Sound right?


----------



## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

That's a HS 50 Small block. The mini bike crowd loves them.

H5 is the big block. The big blocks are 4.0 to 7.0+

easy way to ID a big block is the mount is a steel plate bolted to the block.

Blower housing is larger along with different flywheels and governor is part of the side sump. Not much is interchangeable.


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Here is the manifold and carb.


----------



## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Thats a Hs 5, no doubt. The carb looks rough, but it's way worth the time time to clean it and set it up. Plus it's adjustable main jet. The choke lever could be hard to find on a replacement.


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Not finding any rebuild kits or replacements for Hs 5, just H50. Do you have a source?

Name on the the bowl is Lauson Power Products, number above that looks like 05. Number on top of carb 433 4K17.
Thanks.


----------



## cancon (Oct 16, 2014)

My HS50 has its model/serial located right above the 5HP sticker. I can't make it out on your first post's pictures, but it looks like there is sticker on the top of the engine (dealer or repair shop?), possibly covering up this information. 

Try the 31840 Tecumseh repair kit, got mine on Ebay for under $10. I didn't need half the components though - just the rubber parts: valve seat, bowl gasket, needle o-rings and bowl fiber washer. If you've never done it before there are some great videos on youtube, donyboy73 has some of the best and got me through my one and only carb rebuild with much success.


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Thanks cancon. Looks like just a note about the interlock system, and above that someones repair shop. I'd be surprised if a repair shop blocked out that info.

I spotted a kit with the 31840 number, the rubber is all I really need I think too. Have you ever removed and cleaned out the areas where the "welch" plugs are?

-Forrest


----------



## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Removing the welch plug depends on how crapped out the carb is.

The really important thing about these carbs is there is a rod that controls the fuel between the main and idle jets. In this diagram, hard to see but there is a tiny rod, under the idle mixture screw. This needs to be free and not gummed up. also important when you install the idle mixture screw the rod is at the bottom of it's bore, so hold upright and level whiile installing.

Do a shake and rattle test to make sure the rod is free from gunk. no rattle it won't run right. I don't think the rod can be be removed without damage to the housing. It may take several soakings and shakes, air blowing to get it free.

not rocket science.


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

That would be the emulsion tube Scrappy?
-


----------



## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

ugmold said:


> That would be the emulsion tube Scrappy?
> -


No thats part of the main jet. No idea what the rod is called. Just know that it has to rattle when shaking.


----------



## cancon (Oct 16, 2014)

Absolutely right. I ended up doing my rebuild without that tidbit of knowledge and when it was ready for re-installation I was puzzled by the rattle inside. Got lucky! I would avoid the welsh plugs unless it was absolutely necessary. 

Take it apart, remove both adjustment screws w/ springs & o-rings, bowl nut & bowl, remove the float pin, float, needle valve and rubber needle valve seat. Soak everything in gasoline or mineral spirits (carefully!) and use lots of compressed air. Make sure the passages on the main emulsion tube are clear, as well as the passages on the bowl nut (these are very small and easy to miss). If at this point you have a rattle inside, just re-install with all new rubber components and bowl nut fiber washer. If you remove the throttle and choke plates (if applicable) make sure they go back in with loctite. Again, those donyboy73 videos are really good. When the rebuild is done, jets should be closed (barely snug) and then opened 1 turn for the idle jet, 1 & 1/2 turns for the main jet. 

Also, I would definitely investigate under the service shop sticker...


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Thanks canon, gave it a good clean today, can here the rattle. I found a hole in the bowl, tried to solder it up with rosin core solder, no go, the center hole area around where the jet screws in is pretty beat as well., jagged I have another bowl that looks the same so I will go with that.


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

This is funny, so often I'm looking for something and can't find it when it is right in front of me. Yesterday cancon told me where to look for the model number of the engine, I looked at the stickers and didn't notice the engraved numbers right above the stickers HS50-67008 and serial number 47910.

Thanks cancon.


----------



## cancon (Oct 16, 2014)

Right on, I have the same 67008 engine. Owned for 1 year, did the carb pre season, ran great. I've re-powered to an OHV tecumseh in the meantime, so the HS50 will be on the shelf as a reserve. I may take a stab at rebuilding the entire engine one day, get that ol' connecting rod switched out like everyone suggests. Not that I know what I'm doing. 

Let us know how the engine sounds when you get it back together!


----------



## ugmold (May 11, 2015)

Got the rebuild kit today. Put the carb back together, mounted. First thing bowl leaked. I am assuming this is because I was not using the original bowl as it had a hole and the round hole was jagged. The bowl I used has a different shape where it meets the rubber ring gasket, it needs a gasket that is tapered on one edge. So I shut off the gas and thru a rag under the carb. Couple of good pulls and it is running, the linkage needs some finesse, not sure I have it right, even at lowest setting at the handlebars it is racing. 

I held back the governor with my fingers and tuned the 2 jets and it smoothed out pretty good, no smoke.

Is there a good image or info on the carb linkage? I took the old bowl and JB Weld'd it, sixtyfiveford on youtube said he did this and it has lasted years, I'll probably order a new eventually.


----------



## 1972Ariens92203 (Dec 11, 2017)

cancon said:


> Right on, I have the same 67008 engine. Owned for 1 year, did the carb pre season, ran great. I've re-powered to an OHV tecumseh in the meantime, so the HS50 will be on the shelf as a reserve. I may take a stab at rebuilding the entire engine one day, get that ol' connecting rod switched out like everyone suggests. Not that I know what I'm doing.
> 
> Let us know how the engine sounds when you get it back together!


What OHV did you put in? This is like what I'm doing except for the HS40.


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

1972Ariens92203 said:


> What OHV did you put in? This is like what I'm doing except for the HS40.


You replied to a thread that has been dormant for two and half a years..
and "Cancon" hasnt posted in a year..you arent likely to get an answer..sorry.

Scot


----------



## 1972Ariens92203 (Dec 11, 2017)

I've seen people subscribed to threads and post back years later. I'm almost there. I'll have mine up and running soon once I get the pullies figured out.


----------

