# John Deere 1032 HM100 from 1984- manual, questions



## toomanyhandles (Dec 29, 2019)

Hi, I bought a new-to-me JD 1032 from 1984 as a backup snow moving solution.

I called my local JD dealer, per the serial it is from 1984. It's a 10HP Tecumseh. HM100 159094J ser 4257D is stamped in the metal of the upper, yellow engine housing, not on a sticker.

It fires right up. No smoke, sounds great, augers turn without a ton of noise- the most noise comes from the chute rattling around. The previous owner reported buying it a year ago as a backup, then didn't use it and it sat for a year (if it sat where it was when I looked at it, it was outside, a bit sheltered but still in weather, and could have got some salt on it via crews keeping the main parking lot clear).

As it sat for a long time, I expect with fuel in it- they replaced the carb with an aftermarket prior to selling it, and also replaced at least one fuel line. The oil in it was quite low and a bit tar-like, I took care of that. Spark Plug looks good but I will replace. It's getting a bit of seafoam in the fuel for a little while yet.

The cutting bar has a bit of rust but isn't super worn. The primary augers all look good and straight. The secondary impeller has at least one good bend in at least one blade. The skid shoes don't have much wear on them at all, although the bolts holding them are pretty rusted, so far I have been able to wrench on anything I have tried and things come loose like they should. Given the lack of wear on the cutting bar and skids, I assume it wasn't run much, but who knows.

Questions I have at this time:

-Are there parts and operators manuals available from forums or do I have to tithe to JD? I am pretty sure this is not a 1032D but confirmation would be good. There isn't a giant 1032D sticker on the front anyway.

-It looks like someone defeated a safety feature, although without having the manuals it is hard to tell. The grip-able "lever" on the top of the handlebars- is those supposed to cut the engine if released, while the augers are engaged? From the instructions on the handlebars, it implies something like that. I may only have tested letting go of the top levers when in neutral with the impellers running, come to think of it- not when in drive. I have a photo- looks like someone cut at least one wire in the wire harness on the left side, leading to the handlebars...

-I read that the auger drive gearing on this is steel, not aluminum, and if it hits a rock or whatever- the auger will usually bend before the transmission gears fail or strip, like the aluminum ones do fail today. Can someone help confirm that the shear pins on it right now are indeed shear pins, and not just bolts? 

I have a gravel drive so making sure shear pins fail early and as needed is important to me. These are the only things right now that are super stuck- I can't get them to move yet so that I can pull them out / replace them if needed. They look like they are the "original yellow" though.

-Is there another place to look for a more specific engine code, so I can see what Tecumseh still makes for parts for it at this time?

Hmm- I just notices that I can't post attachments yet, so no photos of the shear pins, etc, at this time, but I have all that.

Is there anything I should pay special attention to for lubrication and such? I haven't had this thing long and looked for zerks but didn't see many. I thought I would find something for the augers.

If I can find the right owners and parts manuals that will help a lot.

Thanks for thoughts!


----------



## toomanyhandles (Dec 29, 2019)

Hey now attachments work!


----------



## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

I picked up a 1997 1032D and fixed it up and brought it to our rental house up in ND last year so my memory isn't as up to date. Mine had a differential under the skid plate for the tires and I modified it so I could grease it. Yours might have the old style diff under there, definitely check it out and grease it or take it apart to grease it if you can. Mine had the diff lock on the left wheel end and also a grease fitting on that axle tube so check that out and grease it. 



I found a fully adjustable carb on ebay for something around $14 but if yours is good then leave it unless you want to tune it. 



Mine also needed a new friction disc under there so while you're under there with the skid plate off and lubing all the shafts and chain and such you can check the disc! Also look at the part/hub thing that the friction disc shaft slides in and out on as mine had one ear broken off. I was able to find a used steel (oem was aluminum otherwise I'd have welded it back together) ariens one.




Granted mine is a bit newer so might be manufactured a bit different so what I had issues with might not apply to yours.


----------



## toomanyhandles (Dec 29, 2019)

Thanks! I also meant to say I haven't tried cranking on the differential octopus-thing, but it has one on the left wheel as well.

I will need to know a bit more about part #'s etc for this to look at belts and such. I would like to have them on-hand as the time when I will have enough snow to load-test this thing will be when I really need it to be working.

I will add- I have never run a snowblower before, for whatever reason I have used various sized things with blades instead. But I really like the older engines- they just sound right to me. This seems to be a great one to tune up and put back into use.


----------



## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

Yea my diff is all inside one big gear. It was pretty interesting to take it apart and add the grease fitting and see how it all works. I think I seen photos of your diff style and a tear down of it, if it doesn't have a grease fitting then it might get some grease from the left side axle tube when you grease that.


As far as belts, I went to a John Deere dealership and had them look up the belts and bought the best ones they could order and put them on the machine as it's 1000 miles away at our rental house and I didn't want issues.


Head over to Amazon or Smile.Amazon.com and pick up a tach 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYXX3C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and make sure the engine is running at it's max. Iirc if it's the Tecumseh then you don't want to rev over the 3600 rpm max or bad things happen.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

There are many of us I here that have a Real John Deere made 1032, later years they were made by Murray then Ariens. Yours is a very strong heavy well built machine but with design flaws, the handles are weak for the weight of the machine and should be supported, the chute is too short and needs to be lengthen 8"-15", the levers pull up and grip from the bottom, this is uncomfortable an tiresome, they should be re-made and fitted from the top.

Do a search on here for the JD 8 & 10, you'll find a lot of information.


----------



## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

Had one of those at work in an 824 or 826. Great machine. We cleared 3 offices with it walks and a bit of parking lot as needed.


Was sorry when we wore it out.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Here is a site you can use for tracking down part numbers. I have two JD riders and two JD 1032s so I always shop around for price as anything JD seems to be more expensive that the same part in a Murray or Ariens bag. :grin:

.
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt


----------



## penna stogey (Nov 25, 2019)

Welcome to the SBF from Gettysburg


----------

