# Honda HS 1132 Used Value



## lclement

What would you guys value this Honda at? Looks to be in good condition... but I have not seen it in person since its a few hour drive. Always wanted a Honda... but at over $2000 or more for a new one i just could not bring my self to do it. They are asking $1200 for this one. I do not have the serial number and do not know what year it is... 

Is this a good buy or not? If not what would be a fair price?


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## Motor City

Twelve hundred seems pretty optimistic for this time of year. I'd say more like $800-$850, is what I would price it at. It looks a few years old.


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## lclement

Motor City said:


> Twelve hundred seems pretty optimistic for this time of year. I'd say more like $800-$850, is what I would price it at. It looks a few years old.


thanks for the feed back, he said its at least 3 years old but i think its more then that but maybe not much. 

before you email i was thinking of offering $900 and seeing where that got me but maybe 800 is a better starting point. 

Thanks again, 

Anyone else have any feed back?


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## Motor City

If you get the serial number, you can call honda and they will tell you the year of the machine.


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## GustoGuy

Also since it is a tracked machine it will be a bit more difficult to move around especially when the engine is off. I like wheels and tracks are only better than wheels if you have a steep driveway or excessivly deep snow that averages more than 2 feet or so deep to blow. Also tracks cost much more than wheels to replace when they wear out or dryrot and crack from non use. If you driveway is relatively flat and paved then a tracked snowblower will offer no benifits over the same wheeled model.


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## [email protected]

Honda snowblowers don't have model years. They do have "version number" called K-codes. A K-code can be produced for many years, with no changes. 

The HS1132 was built for many years with no changes. It was discontinued just a couple of years ago and replaced with the HS1332. 

Anyway, if you can get the serial number, I can look it up and tell you the ballpark age of the machine, the original selling dealer location, (possible) first date of retails sale.

Most important, there was a *Product Safety Recall* on a limited number of these models for a *leaking fuel joint* back issued by Honda in December 2010. Only a certain serial number range were affected. If this unit is in the affected range and has not already been repaired, Honda will repair it free of charge. 

The serial number will be in the form of *SZBF-1234567* and located on the rear frame between the tracks:


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## 43128

the 1332 is the same chassis with a different engine, right?


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## detdrbuzzard

[email protected] said:


> Honda snowblowers don't have model years. They do have "version number" called K-codes. A K-code can be produced for many years, with no changes.
> 
> The HS1132 was built for many years with no changes. It was discontinued just a couple of years ago and replaced with the HS1332.
> 
> Anyway, if you can get the serial number, I can look it up and tell you the ballpark age of the machine, the original selling dealer location, (possible) first date of retails sale.
> 
> Most important, there was a *Product Safety Recall* on a limited number of these models for a *leaking fuel joint* back issued by Honda in December 2010. Only a certain serial number range were affected. If this unit is in the affected range and has not already been repaired, Honda will repair it free of charge.
> 
> The serial number will be in the form of *SZBF-1234567* and located on the rear frame between the tracks:


is the " k " code on honda snowblowers used the same as the " k " code on their motorcycles


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## [email protected]

detdrbuzzard said:


> is the " k " code on honda snowblowers used the same as the " k " code on their motorcycles


Yes, in most cases.

With motorcycles, they also have model years, as that they are licensed, registered, taxed, etc. Power equipment products are usually not, so most snowblower manufacturers don't use model years. 

The Honda K-code is like a version number. When a new model is introduced, is usually is assigned a K0 code. As running changes and improvements are made, the K-code bumps up, K1, K2, K3, etc. 

Some Honda model stay at K0 for many years, while other models may change K-codes as often as twice a year.

Honda typically doesn't include the K-code in the model name in ad materials, websites, etc. to avoid confusion by customers, as it is unusual to have both a K0 and K1 version of a model in the distribution pipeline at the same time. Most dealers would be sure to sell off (usually discount) the K0 units before putting the K1 units out for sale.


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## [email protected]

43128 said:


> the 1332 is the same chassis with a different engine, right?


For the most part, yes. There were a few other minor changes...the HS1132 had a single lever for throttle/choke while the HS1332 has separate levers. I think the HS1332 has an improved shear pin alignment design, improved muffler shield, improved engine emissions, and a few other minor changes. The basic frame, transmission, auger and other key parts are the same. 

The engine for the HS1132 was made in Japan along with the rest of the snowblower, while the engine for the HS1332 is made in Thailand, then shipped to Japan, and then final assembly is completed there.


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## sr71

Assuming there is nothing wrong with it, it's a steal at $1200 ($4000 new before tax) …but of course if you can get it for less that is even better. I've got one… never had an issue - - still looks & runs like new after 12+ years.

btw…ad says 36" snowblower (it is an 11 HP x 32" cut = 1132)


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## db9938

Another thing to inspect and negotiate, is the condition of the drive train. You can look up on "boatparts.net" or "parts tree" what the costs may be for replacements. Hondas are reliable, but expensive to repair when needed. 

Also consider if this is a runner or not.


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## gibbs296

I can't see paying 1200 for a used snowblower. I'm sure it's nice, but at that much money it better have a warranty for a couple of years and i want to wear the "new" feel and smell off of it. Good luck though!


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## db9938

It is a lot for a used machine, but then this machine, as most, run about four times their used, when new. 

From a utility stand point, less expensive options are out there, with the potential of being equally reliable. The real question here, does the price tag match the needs for such a machine for the user. Tracked machines are nice, but they have their limitations as well.


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## superedge88

for a used 1132 honda in good shape in the Twin Cities I would be shocked to find it for less than 1500. The used supply of these is very limited, and the demand is very high.


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## lclement

*Serial Number*

I finally got the serial number from the seller. he said its SZBF1020237. He sent a picture of the serial number but the flash didn't light all of it up. The number above is what he text'ed to me. Hope its accurate. 

Sorry i have been away for a few days. Thanks for the feed back!


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## lclement

I have heard so many good things about Honda blowers but the sticker price is very high... i thought i would try and pick a decent used one up on the used market... these things do not come up for sale to often and i stumbled across this one. I really like the Ariens brand and do own an Ariens 7524e (does a good job) currently but always wanted to try a Honda. In Iowa we only get 30 inches of snow a year but we get the wind! and it piles the snow up in to fairly large drifts so that's where this machine would come in handy. My father has a very long 400 ft driveway that go's 200 ft up hill. I think this machine would do pretty well taking that job. 

If i do not like or need this Honda down the road i think i can sell for close to what i am going to pay for it since these machines have a decent resale value and demand.


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## lclement

sr71 said:


> Assuming there is nothing wrong with it, it's a steal at $1200 ($4000 new before tax) …but of course if you can get it for less that is even better. I've got one… never had an issue - - still looks & runs like new after 12+ years.
> 
> btw…ad says 36" snowblower (it is an 11 HP x 32" cut = 1132)


you are correct, i caught that right off the bat. I informed the seller and he agreed.


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## lclement

Called Honda, they said it was made in 2005 (few years older then i thought), and also has a safety recall that has not been done regarding the fuel line that someone else mentioned earlier (thank you by the way) the tech said honda would cover to have that fixed. 

The only other question i have is i wonder if this was one of the models that was subject to carburetor icing? I have heard that some 1132 were sensitive to that issue.


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## 43128

if i remember correctly, all honda snow engines came with sheet metal shields around the carb, but only after a certain year. it wouldnt be hard to make one. you could probably sell it down the road for 1500 if you throw in extras like belts and skids, but you probably will not want to after you use it


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## lclement

seller sent me a couple more pics... they are text pics so i hope they are big enough. Waiting on a call back to make an offer, thinking of trying 800 at first and up from there. Since this machine is 9 years old and will be 10 years old im a bit more nervous than i originally was.


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## GustoGuy

lclement said:


> seller sent me a couple more pics... they are text pics so i hope they are big enough. Waiting on a call back to make an offer, thinking of trying 800 at first and up from there. Since this machine is 9 years old and will be 10 years old im a bit more nervous than i originally was.


I would only lowball him on costs to fix specific things that are wrong. Like ie track is damaged or this part needs to be replaced and this is what it costs. I myself would like to get a wheeled version of a Honda blower because tracks cost a ton compared to tires. *Are you looking to getting it for blowing your driveway or are you looking to flip it for a big payday?* If you don't make up your mind soon someone may beat you to the punch and buy it out from under you. I sold a near perfect condition 1986 Class C 26 foot Motorhome with only 37,000 actual miles and I had to listen to all the whiners try and low ball me down about this and that and I doubt if he would like to play that game too. *Honda's hold there value because they are reliable machines when maintaned well. *Although someone posted a Craigslist ad with a half worn down bucket of a Honda that was abused. Really sad when someone abuses and neglects an expensive quaility piece of machinery


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## lclement

GustoGuy said:


> I would only lowball him on costs to fix specific things that are wrong. Like ie track is damaged or this part needs to be replaced and this is what it costs. I myself would like to get a wheeled version of a Honda blower because tracks cost a ton compared to tires. *Are you looking to getting it for blowing your driveway or are you looking to flip it for a big payday?* If you don't make up your mind soon someone may beat you to the punch and buy it out from under you. I sold a near perfect condition 1986 Class C 26 foot Motorhome with only 37,000 actual miles and I had to listen to all the whiners try and low ball me down about this and that and I doubt if he would like to play that game too. *Honda's hold there value because they are reliable machines when maintaned well. *Although someone posted a Craigslist ad with a half worn down bucket of a Honda that was abused. Really sad when someone abuses and neglects an expensive quaility piece of machinery



Why do I want it? Good question, it’s a Honda first of all, I know they are desirable on the new and used market. I’m going to try and go look at it tomorrow. Would have already done so if it were not over 2 hours away. You’re probably right on not low balling over the phone. I should inspect it and then see if anything needs replaces such as skids, scraper bar, track condition, and look to see if there is any chassis wear from non-adjusted skids (that one I really hate to see since it can’t be fixed)


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## [email protected]

lclement said:


> Called Honda, they said it was made in 2005 (few years older then i thought), and also has a safety recall that has not been done regarding the fuel line that someone else mentioned earlier (thank you by the way) the tech said honda would cover to have that fixed.
> 
> The only other question i have is i wonder if this was one of the models that was subject to carburetor icing? I have heard that some 1132 were sensitive to that issue.


The recall was for a possible leaking fuel tube joint at the bottom of the tank. Easy fix, and any Honda SB dealer will do at no charge.

Honda offers an anti-icing kit for this model. If you don't have any icing problems, I would not bother to install it.


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## Kielbasa

From that slightly blurring photo of the machine, it looks like good condition and not excellent condition to me. The biggest concern of mine would be how it has been maintained mechanically. I vote for the $800 if not less or walk.


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## 43128

id say pay 1000 if its in good shape


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## lclement

I went and looked at it yesterday. Operationally everything worked, started up well, it tracked straight. In order to turn it you do have to put some muscle into it but that was in the grass. I'm sure its easier on snow and ice...

I looked under the auger hosing to see if the scarper bar and skids had worn down and allowed the hosing to grind on to the rocks and cement. To my amazement that area looked good! not many scratches and the scarper bar looked to have some life left in it. 

What i was not expecting was how heavy this thing was! Wow its really is a tank and it feels more solid then any snow blower i have ever used. 

I did not buy it as i wanted to sleep on it. It does have some cosmetic issues like a bit of rust in a couple areas where i don't like to see rust but i don't think structure is compromised in any way. The tracks looked like they were is good shape ($200 to replace them). The rust i imagine is from the salt getting on it from the EOD and it not being sprayed and scrubbed off afterwards.

I am thinking of buying it because i don't think ill find another Honda that size for that much money. Its more snow blower then i will ever need in iowa that's for sure.


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## lclement

SOLD! I just got it bought for $900, i hope this turns out to be a good investment. I plan to sell a Poulon Pro 8HP 27 inch this winter to help cover this Honda HS 1132. If i can get 300 out of the Poulon i will be happy. I think ill keep the Ariens 7524e as a back up... i really like that one. Its light weight and in very good condition. I only have $275 invested in the Ariens anyway. Summer is a great time to pick up quality snowblowers while not having to fork over large amounts of money.

So what do you all think? Was $900 a good buy for this machine?


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## superedge88

lclement said:


> SOLD! I just got it bought for $900, i hope this turns out to be a good Investment. I plan to sell a Poulon Pro 8HP 27 inch this winter to help cover this Honda HS 1132. If i can get 300 out of the Poulon i will be happy. I think ill keep the Ariens 7524e as a back up... i really like that one. Its light weight and in very good condition. I only have $275 invested in the Ariens anyway. Summer is a great time to pick up quality snowblowers while not having to fork over large amounts of money.
> 
> So what do you all think? Was $900 a good buy for this machine?


Yes, you got a great deal. You're very lucky that no one around you is buying and flipping Hondas or you would have never had a chance to wait on such a deal. Up here in the Twin Cities that would have been snatched up and then sold in November for 1800 bucks.


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## lclement

superedge88 said:


> Yes, you got a great deal. You're very lucky that no one around you is buying and flipping Hondas or you would have never had a chance to wait on such a deal. Up here in the Twin Cities that would have been snatched up and then sold in November for 1800 bucks.


That's good to know. I only know of one other Honda for sale in Iowa at this time, a 2 stage in Des Moines but he wants 1850 for an hs 928. That one may be in better cosmetic shape but it was made in 2000, the one I got was made in 2005. I think the 928 just sat in a garage most it's life and never used. If I could get the one I have now for 900 iI figured who's cares about a little cosmetics. Going to take it to the Honda dealer for a service and inspection then I'll probably do all other maintenance myself unless something breaks. 

I'm very excited to own a Honda blower, no one around here has one that I know of.


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## gibbs296

Good for you, thanks for sharing the story of the purchase. I hope you end up keeping it. Those that buy to resell and make money are not really my favorite people.


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## GustoGuy

lclement said:


> SOLD! I just got it bought for $900, i hope this turns out to be a good investment. I plan to sell a Poulon Pro 8HP 27 inch this winter to help cover this Honda HS 1132. If i can get 300 out of the Poulon i will be happy. I think ill keep the Ariens 7524e as a back up... i really like that one. Its light weight and in very good condition. I only have $275 invested in the Ariens anyway. Summer is a great time to pick up quality snowblowers while not having to fork over large amounts of money.
> 
> So what do you all think? Was $900 a good buy for this machine?


Great deal. I live in Central Minnesosta about 75 miles northwest of the Twin Cities and a machine like that in great condition is worth $1500+ easily in November and at least $1000+ in the middle of the summer. It is a beast of a machine (overkill) for only 30 inches of snow per season? Our winter average where I live averages 65+ inches of snow per season and last winter we recieved just over 84 inches of snow. Great season for snowmobiling however Duluth Minnesota set an all time record at 143 inches of snow. They would like a beast of a machine like you got up there for blowing that much snow.


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## lclement

In 2009 we got over 60 inches, that is the rare exception though... We do get 2 ft deep drifts since Iowa is so flat with constant wind. Is it overkill for me, heck yes but the price is right and it should serve for many years. I have one property with 400 ft of drive with half that up hill so this will work well. I didn't want to own a plow and truck, I also didn't want to buy another lawn tractor with a pto blower so that left this as the logic cheapest choice.


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## [email protected]

lclement said:


> Going to take it to the Honda dealer for a service and inspection then I'll probably do all other maintenance myself unless something breaks.


Be sure the Honda dealer double-checks the frame serial number and possibly perform the recall work on the fuel joint tube (no charge for this job if necessary). 

At the time you have it in, also ask them to update the registration information as well, so in the unlikely event there's ever another recall, Honda will be able to contact you directly.


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## db9938

Best of luck with your new machine. Now that you have it, and it is reasonably comfortable to be outside, pull your auger/impeller assembly out and clean and lube the shafts. This will ensure that your shear bolts will operate as they should. This should entail 8, 10mm bolts, a hard tug, and then three shear bolts. 

And a question to Robert, is re-registration only possible with a dealer?


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## lclement

Thanks for the input on the shift lube work, I did plan to do that. A rusted frozen auger is a time bomb for a gearing. Other news, just sold the poulan pro for $225


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## db9938

That lowers the blow.


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## 43128

if you want to splurge a little and not have to do it as often(you really should remove the rake bolts every 3 years at least, spin the rakes on the shaft, and grease them), you should get your self a can of copaslip by molyslip. it has copper in it and is an antiseize. when i used it on mowers before, when it comes time to remove the blade the adapters they often just fall off


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## lclement

43128 said:


> if you want to splurge a little and not have to do it as often(you really should remove the rake bolts every 3 years at least, spin the rakes on the shaft, and grease them), you should get your self a can of copaslip by molyslip. it has copper in it and is an antiseize. when i used it on mowers before, when it comes time to remove the blade the adapters they often just fall off


That's good to know. I used the amsoil multi purpose grease on my ariens auger. That grease seems to last a bit longer but I don't think it would make it 3 years like the stuff you are mentioning.


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## detdrbuzzard

congrats lclement


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## lclement

Just picked it up today. I have aluminum folding ramps for my half ton Silverado and it effortlessly clumped up without an issue. Good to know so I know I can be mobile with it when the snow Flys. Now to get it cleaned up and try to get as much rust removed as possible. I'll upload some more pics later. 

Thanks everyone for your input. It feels like I got a good buy and no longer dread the snow storms.


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## lclement

Here are some pics. i had to be quick. Has a small amount of rust and i need to figure out a way to remove, sand, and touch up so it doesn't get worse.

I hate rust and corrosion


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## sr71

you stole that machine…..a good example of how well Honda's age….congrat's


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## db9938

Those pictures certainly do it justice. The augers should clean up nicely. 

Other suggestions:
a. clean out the sediment cup in the carb and see how much junk is there. 
b. while the auger is out and apart, you may consider degreasing, de-rusting, then giving it a very light coat of paint to further prevent corrosion. But I would make absolutely sure that the paint had cured prior to re-greaing and reassembly. 


I wonder if that is a Canadian model. 

Robert, does the US model have the central auger transmission support?


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## [email protected]

db9938 said:


> I wonder if that is a Canadian model.
> 
> Robert, does the US model have the central auger transmission support?


Photos are of a USA model. Canada market models with track-drive have a pneumatic strut to adjust the auger housing height, while USA models have a 3-position foot-operated pedal. _Some_ electric-start Canada-market models have on-board 12V batteries, others are like USA models and have a 120V AC starter (use an extension cord). 

USA models do indeed have the support (a.k.a. "Auger Housing Bracket"):


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## db9938

Thanks for the info. I have just noticed that most Canadian models have that one particular part. I know that most Canadian Honda models can have other goodies that we don't.


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## lclement

That gas strut assistance would be nice as would the 12 volt start but I'm sure I won't miss those two things to much.


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## db9938

Well if you knew someone in Canada, that could order and ship you the parts....


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## tinter

I have the Canadian model hs928 tcd it has the bracket shown. The hs828 I just rebuilt for my neighbor does not. The top of the auger housing actually has the boss ground off so you can't even add one without changing the transmission case. The impeller bearing was beat completely out of his, but the machine is over 20 years old and that was the first real service it had.


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## tinter

So of course after I press enter on my last post, I went back and looked closer at your pictures and see you have the bracket. Good deal on you machine. I bought my 2005 in April of this year. Paid $1600 and zero regrets or second thoughts.


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## lclement

tinter said:


> So of course after I press enter on my last post, I went back and looked closer at your pictures and see you have the bracket. Good deal on you machine. I bought my 2005 in April of this year. Paid $1600 and zero regrets or second thoughts.


I wonder what year they added that center support bracket, im sure it helps stabilize. Yeah the more searching i have done the more good i feel on price paid. I think I found an excellent buy and really looking forward to the next blizzard (cant believe i just said that lol) 

I took it to a reputable honda dealer for a service and inspection and they said everything looked really good. They did quite a bit for $80. New spark plug, oil, lubrication, cable adjustments, belt inspection, pulley inspection, new stabilized gas, and carburetor inspection, plus they even cleaned and waxed it for me! I try to do my own maintenance on equipment but that service will be hard to beat.


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## tinter

Sounds like a great deal for $80.00 , I bought mine in April of this year and just missed the season. So the wife has been suffering listening to me for to long. I'm sure the novelty will wear off after the first storm, but until then.......


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## lclement

tinter said:


> Sounds like a great deal for $80.00 , I bought mine in April of this year and just missed the season. So the wife has been suffering listening to me for to long. I'm sure the novelty will wear off after the first storm, but until then.......


Yeah im in the same boat LOL, i dont think i have ever wanted to see snow so bad before! We normally dont have any snow stick to the ground until Mid Dec and sometimes its Jan before we have any. Once in a while we will get a freak storm in Late Nov to early Dec but it seems like that doesn't happen as much.


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## lclement

I would like to take the auger off and grease the insides of the shafts to prevent rust and seizure but im not sure what is involved to get those off. I know how to use tools as I lived and grew up on a farm but im no mechanic lol. I don’t want to get in over my head. How hard is it to take the augers off to grease? I wish they had a grease zert… Then getting them back on will be the fun part…
Is there any videos or instruction that anyone could point me to perform this correctly?


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## lclement

I found this video, seems like this is more simple than i thought as long as my augers are not stuck on!


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## db9938

If they are, I suggest the electrolysis method of removal. 

A five gallon, utility bucket and a couple 2x2 sections, should suffice, along with the other ingredients to the process.


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## lclement

I have never tried that method, how does it work? Thanks for the info!


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## db9938

Here are some videos of the process, I use a cheap battery charger, one that I had on the shelf in the garage, and I started with rebar, but now I have moved onto the junk legs of one of those umbrella chairs.


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## lclement

thanks I may try that if needed. i don't want to use a torch since that will fry the seals and ill have to tear the gear case apart to replace seals.


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## 94EG8

43128 said:


> if i remember correctly, all honda snow engines came with sheet metal shields around the carb, but only after a certain year. it wouldnt be hard to make one. you could probably sell it down the road for 1500 if you throw in extras like belts and skids, but you probably will not want to after you use it


There's a lot more to it than just the shield. You could make something if you really wanted to, but it's actually 2 or 3 shields from what I remember plus a rubber flap. The kit also isn't worth all that much, a little under $70.00 or so from what I remember. Part number for an HS1132 is 06196-ZE3-305

Where I live those machines just wont run right without the anti-icing kit, but in other places I guess they run fine, it all depends on the temperature and humidity.

$900 is a great buy IMO. I'm not used to seeing a used one for less than $1500.


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## lclement

94EG8 said:


> There's a lot more to it than just the shield. You could make something if you really wanted to, but it's actually 2 or 3 shields from what I remember plus a rubber flap. The kit also isn't worth all that much, a little under $70.00 or so from what I remember. Part number for an HS1132 is 06196-ZE3-305
> 
> Where I live those machines just wont run right without the anti-icing kit, but in other places I guess they run fine, it all depends on the temperature and humidity.
> 
> $900 is a great buy IMO. I'm not used to seeing a used one for less than $1500.


Yeah the more I around I don't see many used Hondas for sale. Feel good about they buy.


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## db9938

lclement said:


> thanks I may try that if needed. i don't want to use a torch since that will fry the seals and ill have to tear the gear case apart to replace seals.


If you have any question, PM me. I am just about wrapped up with my augers and impeller. Moving on to the bucket, but I can't use this process, as I do not have a container that larger. I could buy one, but I guess the cheapskate in me, will not allow it.


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## lclement

db9938 said:


> If you have any question, PM me. I am just about wrapped up with my augers and impeller. Moving on to the bucket, but I can't use this process, as I do not have a container that larger. I could buy one, but I guess the cheapskate in me, will not allow it.


I will. I do have a container that large so if I need to try it I think I can make it work. Interesting method!


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## db9938

It does take more time, but less physical effort, and less dust. What I have found, is that every other day, or so, if you "recharge" the rebar/waste rods, you do yield a faster and better result. This requires some sort of abrasive, such as a wire brush or wheel, to bring them back to bare metal. 

I let mine dry out, descale with a hand wire brush, then finish on the bench wire wheel. The nice part of the umbrella lawn chair, is that there are already holes pre-drilled. So, I was able to take a five inch bolt from my spare bolt drawer, to link them. If you PM me a cell, I can take as many pics of what I have done, and share whatever I have learned along the way.


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## lclement

Happy to report that the augers turned freely when shear bolts were removed. Looks like and easy application of grease will have it ready for winter. 

While the front gear assembly is out I think I may add some oem Honda paint to fight rust and corrosion down the road.


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## lclement

Well I got the front auger assembly and gear box out no problem. I was surprised how easy it was, all of the bolts were easy to reach with standard tools and nothing was rusted to bad. Attached are some pics before I painted the inside, once the paint is done ill add some more pics, one more coat should do it. The inside of the auger hosing looks much better.

Used Honda OEM red (not easy to find) and for the black parts used a black gloss enamel.

After painted ill be greasing everything well before i put it back together. #paceofmind


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## lclement

Pics were to big and did make it, had to re-size so here they are.


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## RoyP

I purchased a used HS1132 a few weeks ago. It has a separate choke and engine speed lever...not just one. Maybe they changed mid year somewhere. I know that the one I have was purchased new in 2003. Don't know when it was discontinued. You can not commit on buying this unit until you see it, start it yourself....see how warn and beat up the auger assembly is. If you like what you see.....anything between $800.00 and $1,000 should make you happy.


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## db9938

May need some preventive lubrication, and some spring attention. But congrats on getting it apart.


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## lclement

Here are the after pics, I cleaned the surface and applied several coast of Honda OEM red, used 1.5 cans to cover exposed metal. 

Painted the inside of the snow discharge and then cleaned and painted the augers, impeller, and scraper bar. 

After the paint was all dry amsol multipurpose grease was applied to all fitted parts to prevent seizing and corrosion. 

While the gear case was off I checked the oil levels and they appeared to be good and the gears turned freely in my hand with minimal friction. Mechanically it’s pretty sound and now I have peace of mind knowing the metal has some protection to prevent rust and corrosion. 

This was the first time I have every worked on a Honda but taking the front end off was pretty easy and so was reassembly. 

It nice to have the knowledge on how this is assembled. 

Turned into a fun project.

By the way, this is a 2005 and has a separate choke and throttle control. Amazing what a little paint, lubrication, and elbow grease will do!


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## Shredsled

Looks nice!

I just picked up a used HS1132TAS myself, and I'll just say, you got a steal compared to what I paid! Got mine for $1500 and I was completely comfortable paying that much. I was lucky enough to be first caller on the machine on craigslist as the lady said she had several others all lined up behind me to come get it!
Mine was relatively unused and purchased it from a widow who had no use for it. Upon initial inspection I was startled to find NO air-cleaner! Almost tried to use that as a bargaining chip on sale price, haha! But come to find out, there are no air filters in these.

Where did you find your "Honda OEM" red paint?

Also, just wondering, are you planning on installing the "anti-icing" kit? I'm on the fence about spending another $70 on one, but then again I don't want to be out clearing my pond of snow this winter when it the carb freezes up and won't restart.

I am going to need to get my serial number and give Honda America a call and try to register. Have you done this process? Or did you do it at the dealer?


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## lclement

Shredsled said:


> Looks nice!
> 
> I just picked up a used HS1132TAS myself, and I'll just say, you got a steal compared to what I paid! Got mine for $1500 and I was completely comfortable paying that much. I was lucky enough to be first caller on the machine on craigslist as the lady said she had several others all lined up behind me to come get it!
> Mine was relatively unused and purchased it from a widow who had no use for it. Upon initial inspection I was startled to find NO air-cleaner! Almost tried to use that as a bargaining chip on sale price, haha! But come to find out, there are no air filters in these.
> 
> Where did you find your "Honda OEM" red paint?
> 
> Also, just wondering, are you planning on installing the "anti-icing" kit? I'm on the fence about spending another $70 on one, but then again I don't want to be out clearing my pond of snow this winter when it the carb freezes up and won't restart.
> 
> I am going to need to get my serial number and give Honda America a call and try to register. Have you done this process? Or did you do it at the dealer?


 Congrats on the find! They don’t seem to last long especially this time of year. Yes they don’t come with an air cleaner I made the same mistake LOL

I found online here (only google search that turned out to be worth it) Honda 08707-R8 BRIGHT RED SPRAY PAINT SHORT DISC $25.18 The Honda dealer had a tough time finding the right kind but they did succeed eventually. 

You need bright red 08707R8 confirm with American Honda just to be sure. 

It dries fast but it will take several coats to cover exposed metal. 
I asked about the icing kit and the Honda rep said to run it and if you have issues let us know. So I guess we will see. I guess it depends on your climate… 

As for registration the dealer was supposed to update that for me. 

Sounds like you got a decent buy while remembering that these can be hard to even find used. I did find a HS 928 for $1300 and if I didn't have this one I might be all over that one!


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## lclement

We got 3-4 inches before thanksgiving so i got the honda out for a test run... i will say running a tracked machine is much different the running a wheeled one. tracked machines are much slower backing up but i got used to it.

the only issue i had was while moving it seemed like it wanted to hang up on the pavement so im not sure if my scraper bar is to low or if the rear skids are catching and jerking the machine around. 

I did put on some Armour Skids on the sides of the auger hosing so maybe that will smooth out the operation some. 

Does anyone know if you can use both the rear and side skid shoes at the same time? Or should it be on or the other?


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## Normex

The Armour Skids is a definite plus. To adjust them put your bucket adjustment to middle and if on asphalt put a paint stick (approx. 1/8")under your scraper and lower your skids to the ground and tighten.
You may want to try to adjust your rear skids at the same time but I would think the side skids are enough and you can raise the rear ones completely and tighten so you have these as spare. If your laneway is gravel then adjust with scraper bars at least 1 1/4" above. Good Luck


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## lclement

thanks for the tips, the driveway is asphalt/cement 400 feet long


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## RoyP

lclement said:


> We got 3-4 inches before thanksgiving so i got the honda out for a test run... i will say running a tracked machine is much different the running a wheeled one. tracked machines are much slower backing up but i got used to it.
> 
> the only issue i had was while moving it seemed like it wanted to hang up on the pavement so im not sure if my scraper bar is to low or if the rear skids are catching and jerking the machine around.
> 
> I did put on some Armour Skids on the sides of the auger hosing so maybe that will smooth out the operation some.
> 
> Does anyone know if you can use both the rear and side skid shoes at the same time? Or should it be on or the other?


What works the best for me is the high position, then lower the scraper blade to about 1/4" off of the concrete or blacktop, whatever you have. The tracks should be level, both front & rear making solid contact with the concrete or blacktop. Then lower the shoes, just in front of the tracks so that they contact the surface when the scraper blade is about 1/8" off of the surface. When blowing snow, you can lift just a little on the handles to clean the surface better. Plus this way you won't have it digging in while your trying to clear the driveway. Much easier on your body this way.


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## RoyP

lclement said:


> Here are the after pics, I cleaned the surface and applied several coast of Honda OEM red, used 1.5 cans to cover exposed metal.
> 
> Painted the inside of the snow discharge and then cleaned and painted the augers, impeller, and scraper bar.
> 
> After the paint was all dry amsol multipurpose grease was applied to all fitted parts to prevent seizing and corrosion.
> 
> While the gear case was off I checked the oil levels and they appeared to be good and the gears turned freely in my hand with minimal friction. Mechanically it’s pretty sound and now I have peace of mind knowing the metal has some protection to prevent rust and corrosion.
> 
> This was the first time I have every worked on a Honda but taking the front end off was pretty easy and so was reassembly.
> 
> It nice to have the knowledge on how this is assembled.
> 
> Turned into a fun project.
> 
> By the way, this is a 2005 and has a separate choke and throttle control. Amazing what a little paint, lubrication, and elbow grease will do!



Your paint job looks great....my remarks are pertaining to your main auger, the blades or teeth seem to be bent somewhat...have your figured out how this happened. ??


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## lclement

RoyP said:


> What works the best for me is the high position, then lower the scraper blade to about 1/4" off of the concrete or blacktop, whatever you have. The tracks should be level, both front & rear making solid contact with the concrete or blacktop. Then lower the shoes, just in front of the tracks so that they contact the surface when the scraper blade is about 1/8" off of the surface. When blowing snow, you can lift just a little on the handles to clean the surface better. Plus this way you won't have it digging in while your trying to clear the driveway. Much easier on your body this way.


okay ill give a try, i think im just a bit lower then 1/8 so maybe that adjustment will help


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## lclement

RoyP said:


> Your paint job looks great....my remarks are pertaining to your main auger, the blades or teeth seem to be bent somewhat...have your figured out how this happened. ??


thanks for paint complement! as to the auger the tips are serrated and claw inward to the main impeller which is a factory design. Is that was you were referring to? 

When i run the auger it doesn't seem to wobble to much...


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## RoyP

lclement said:


> thanks for paint complement! as to the auger the tips are serrated and claw inward to the main impeller which is a factory design. Is that was you were referring to?
> 
> When i run the auger it doesn't seem to wobble to much...


I didn't thing the serrated teeth were engineered to claw inward....on the new machine that I view here, I though most were straight. 

Being bent or as you say claw inward seems to be a sign that they are hitting something


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## lclement

RoyP said:


> I didn't thing the serrated teeth were engineered to claw inward....on the new machine that I view here, I though most were straight.
> 
> Being bent or as you say claw inward seems to be a sign that they are hitting something



When I looked at all the serrations today they were all at the same inward angle so if they all hit something what are the chances they all bent at the same angle? 

If they did hit something it must have been cement or asphalt to make them all go the same way. 

I doesn’t seem to affect the snow intake, when I had the entire front end apart the impeller looked normal so as long as the augers are pulling snow to the center I think I’m fine. 

The previous owner probably had the auger to low and as a result it probably rotated on a hard surface. I am pretty methodical when I run it so I don’t think it was me but then again maybe it was lol. 

New augers are not cheap! So I think I’ll have to live with it for now.


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## Normex

lclement said:


> When I looked at all the serrations today they were all at the same inward angle so if they all hit something what are the chances they all bent at the same angle?
> 
> If they did hit something it must have been cement or asphalt to make them all go the same way.
> 
> I doesn’t seem to affect the snow intake, when I had the entire front end apart the impeller looked normal so as long as the augers are pulling snow to the center I think I’m fine.
> 
> The previous owner probably had the auger to low and as a result it probably rotated on a hard surface. I am pretty methodical when I run it so I don’t think it was me but then again maybe it was lol.
> 
> New augers are not cheap! So I think I’ll have to live with it for now.


You and Roy are both right the serrated have an inward angle to them but they are straight to the tip. So in essence I made a mistake explaining myself to you Roy as I saw the photo many teeth were rounded at the end by hitting so I don't know if you have straightened them completely from the base of the tooth then I'm sorry I wasn't clear enough but they should be easy to get the proper angle.

This is what I alluded from your photo:



and this is a new Honda auger, they are straight with an angle


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## Normex

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RoyP*  
_What works the best for me is the high position, then lower the scraper blade to about 1/4" off of the concrete or blacktop, whatever you have. The tracks should be level, both front & rear making solid contact with the concrete or blacktop. Then lower the shoes, just in front of the tracks so that they contact the surface when the scraper blade is about 1/8" off of the surface. When blowing snow, you can lift just a little on the handles to clean the surface better. Plus this way you won't have it digging in while your trying to clear the driveway. Much easier on your body this way._

Iclement Quote:
okay ill give a try, i think im just a bit lower then 1/8 so maybe that adjustment will help [Quote End]


Iclement you should be careful as I think Roy's Honda is out of adjusment
for the auger set up. Yours can be adjusted properly but you just need to adjust your skids when at medium setting you have 1/8" below your scraper bar then lower your skid to the surface and tighten.
For some reason Roy's Honda cannot be set at medium without the bucket hitting the asphalt and there should an adjustment to be done for that.

Good Luck Guys


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## lclement

Normex said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RoyP*
> _What works the best for me is the high position, then lower the scraper blade to about 1/4" off of the concrete or blacktop, whatever you have. The tracks should be level, both front & rear making solid contact with the concrete or blacktop. Then lower the shoes, just in front of the tracks so that they contact the surface when the scraper blade is about 1/8" off of the surface. When blowing snow, you can lift just a little on the handles to clean the surface better. Plus this way you won't have it digging in while your trying to clear the driveway. Much easier on your body this way._
> 
> Iclement Quote:
> okay ill give a try, i think im just a bit lower then 1/8 so maybe that adjustment will help [Quote End]
> 
> 
> Iclement you should be careful as I think Roy's Honda is out of adjusment
> for the auger set up. Yours can be adjusted properly but you just need to adjust your skids when at medium setting you have 1/8" below your scraper bar then lower your skid to the surface and tighten.
> For some reason Roy's Honda cannot be set at medium without the bucket hitting the asphalt and there should an adjustment to be done for that.
> 
> Good Luck Guys


Yes when I put the armor skids on I made sure that I have 1/8 to 1/4 from the scraper bar and the concreate at med setting. I had it set that way with the rear skids also but I think the blower can still rock forward which could cause the auger to rotate on the ground which we don’t want. 

Mine do seem to be rounded but I am pretty sure it was that way when I bought it so I can’t be made at myself. 

Will be in the 40’s this week and maybe even 50’s so no chance for any snow to try the new skids out.


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## Shredsled

The teeth should be angled perfectly perpendicular to the auger shaft, not straight with the auger blade itself. If they appear "curled", then they have probably hit the ground/hard object, but like you said, there is no way ALL of them would have done this in uniform.


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## lclement

man, not cold enough for snow, its raining now. I can only imagine the amount of snow we would be getting if the temps were lower.


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## lclement

we just 13 inches of snow last weekend, i cant remember the last time we got that much from one storm! I really got to see what my 1132 could do! Check out the link below for a quick video... i recorded it with my right hand and ran the 1132 with my left while going through 20+ inch snow drifts. Sorry for the camera shaking, trying to run snow deflector and steer while recording with phone. I ran this blower all day for 8 hours!


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## lclement

Here Is another short video from a different angle, shows it and I chopping up a decent sized drift in front of an entrance. 







I will say my Ariens 7524 is good for my driveway and can blow the snow a fair distance and it did well with the 10.5 inches in the two car driveway but, it in no way compares to the Honda in deep snow (20+ inches). The Honda just pushed through the drifts and under them if it had to.


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## Chadly1980

Thanks for posting those videos. I love my 1132 as well! I hope to own this thing for decades to come (already 5-6 years under my ownership after buying it used on CL). I paid $1500 for it then in May that year. Like many others, I wish it had one wheel (track) steering.


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## RoyP

GustoGuy said:


> Also since it is a tracked machine it will be a bit more difficult to move around especially when the engine is off. I like wheels and tracks are only better than wheels if you have a steep driveway or excessivly deep snow that averages more than 2 feet or so deep to blow. Also tracks cost much more than wheels to replace when they wear out or dryrot and crack from non use. If you driveway is relatively flat and paved then a tracked snowblower will offer no benifits over the same wheeled model.


I ran a wheeled blower for years, now I'm running this HS1132

My area is very flat, as far as traction, I don't see a large difference......the tracks will spin just like the wheeled machine did.


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## 94EG8

I don't think you can truly appreciate what makes a Honda so much better until you use one in snow level with the top of the bucket. Even seeing a video is nothing like actually seeing it live.


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## lclement

Yes using one in that deep of snow is a very neat eexperiene im lucky we got that big storm, iI can't remember the last time central Iowa got a foot or more all at once. It's been a good many years.


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