# Type of Motor Oil



## Builder

Hi
Just wondering what type of oil should I use for my Ariens Deluxe 24 snowblower. The manual says 5W-30 but does not specify if Synthetic oil is preferred or not. I have some new Gastrol non synthetic 5W-30 oil for my car left over in a 4 liter jug , would this oil be ok to use? I see that MTD has an oil out now that comes in a plastic bag and states that it is for 4 stroke air cooled engines such as snow blowers and such, has anyone used this before or should I just stay with conventional or synthetic car motor oil?
Thanks


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## Kiss4aFrog

Everyone has different ideas. Most of us recommend using Synthetic. I run Mobil 0-40 Synthetic in everything except my tillers since they only work in warm weather and usually have a pretty heavy load.
My Walmart stocks it and has the best price.


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## Dragonsm

You would be fine to run the non-synthetic oil. My wife's car uses 4 quarts of oil (5w30) and normally the quart left over gets dumped into an empty single quart either for future use in one of my four stroke engines (power washer, Honda lawnmower or snowblower) Normally use either Mobil 1, or havoline/valvoline in a semi-synthetic. Never have had an engine issue related to oil....I change annually....and any 5w30 oil is better than no oil. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 43128

if it is a brand new snowblower or a brand new engine, run regular oil in it for the first 3-5 break in hours, and then change it out to whatever type of oil you like(i personally like to use penzoil platinum synthetic 5w-30 or 5w-20 or mobil 1, but its your choice). if the engine has been run on regular oil its entire life however, then keep using regular oil


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## ChrisJ

I'm running Mobil 1 extended performance 5w30 in everything because it's what I use in both of our cars.

As has been said, you'll get tons of opinions on this, even many carrying on very old rumors about synthetic causing leaks etc. It's not true and synthetics these days can be mixed with conventional oils. You can even mix 5w30 and 10w30. 0w30 is fine as well and I would feel is preferred in a snowblower, especially if it's stored where it's cold or chilly.

There's no reason at all not to use synthetic in something, no matter what it used and for how long. My Ariens is a late 90s model and was run enough that it ended up with exhaust valve clearance issues that needed to be addressed. I still switched it over to Mobil 1 and the Tecumseh has no complaints about it.

I personally feel synthetic oils handle moisture better, which our engines have a big problem with due to short run times, being air cooled and where they're stored etc. However overall, all these simple, low power engines want is fairly clean oil and enough of it. Practically any detergent oil out there will keep them happy if you change it from time to time and don't run them low.


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## DuffyJr

The only thing I would add to this is if it's still under warranty use 5w30 like the manual states. I would hate to give them an accuse to void the warranty. I have always used dino in my old MTD but I decided I was going to use a synthetic blend in my new one.

As mentioned the more important thing is to keep it full and change it annually.


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## Oneacer

I use 5-30 full synthetic in all my small engines, mowers and blowers. Here is a passage taken from B&S site:

"We all grew up on conventional oil which at its heart is crude oil which has been refined and then blended with additives. Most synthetic oils also start as crude but go through more complex processing down to the molecular level, resulting in a lubricant which offers a variety of benefits including:


Better wear control
Better viscosity
Better low temperature fluidity
Better deposit control
 End result? By using a synthetic oil you are putting a better lubricant in your engine which helps reduce the risk of equipment failure and can extend its service life. The only downside is that extra protection comes at a higher price. Depending on the brand, synthetic oil can run almost double the price of conventional oils."


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## orangputeh

My local honda dealer uses Honda 10w-30 because the temps do not go below zero very often.

Many years ago a mechanic friend told me the best thing you can do for a motor is to change the oil and filters regularly. Good advice as we have 3 cars still going strong after 330,000 , 297,000 , and 281,000 miles on them. all subarus.


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## uberT

Builder said:


> The manual says 5W-30 but does not specify if Synthetic oil is preferred or not.



Builder, how old is your Ariens?


(My Ariens Owner's Manuals all show synthetic or dino 5W30 are fine.)


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## Builder

Hi uberT

It is my second season with the blower which I bought new late last fall. I did the 5 hour break in oil change and used conventional oil, but was wondering if I should switch over to synthetic oil.


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## uberT

So, your Owner's Manual says the same as mine do: It's OK to use syn oil if you wish to.


As the others mention above, I did the first brief change intervals on a quality dino oil and have transitioned to a Mobil 1 5W30 product.


If you're going to be changing oil all the time, probably a reasonable decision to stick with dino since it's so cheap. I tend to keep the oil in my machines a bit longer since the oil still appears completely clean at the end of a season.


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## LouC

For a 4 stroke snow blower or a generator that you might need to use in winter, I'd use syn 5w/30 just for the ease of starting alone. I use it in all my 4 stroke power equipment. It does pull start more easily, as syn oil does not thicken as much as conventional at low temps. I tried testing syn and conventional 5w30 oils in the freezer at 0 degrees F and there is a huge difference in the ability of it to flow, and lubricate.


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## Kielbasa

This post was very interesting.

When I had the old H-70 on our 1971 Ariens it was the hardest engine to pull start. Having the pull the rope up off the engine and me being on the short side, it was just a royal pain to say the least. My dad always used what ever conventional oil it called for. 

But now when I repowered with the Briggs And Stratton, I always thought that having the bigger mitten handle and having the rope pull off to the side like a lumber jacks sawing motion, I thought that was one of the reasons why she is so... easy to pull start with one pull. 

I never thought that maybe the synthetic oil could possibly have something to do with it.

I thought with maybe using synthetic oil, it might help the engine work with less strain especially with storms that have the heavier type snow.

Maybe just foolish thinking...



LouC said:


> For a 4 stroke snow blower or a generator that you might need to use in winter, I'd use syn 5w/30 just for the ease of starting alone. I use it in all my 4 stroke power equipment. It does pull start more easily, as syn oil does not thicken as much as conventional at low temps. I tried testing syn and conventional 5w30 oils in the freezer at 0 degrees F and there is a huge difference in the ability of it to flow, and lubricate.


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## sscotsman

I have settled on two different types of oil:

For my mowers and garden tractors: Straight 30 weight Dino oil. Because that is what the engine manufacturers have recommended since forever, and all my engines are 30 to 50 years old, and they only run in spring, summer and fall. No winter running.

For the snowblowers: Synthetic 5W30, because its better in the cold. starts easier, flows better in the cold.

From all the reading I have done over the years, Synthetic is better for the cold weather engines, and it makes little difference for the warm-weather engines.

Scot


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## deezlfan

I can not store my blower close to an AC receptacle and pull starting the 10hp Tecumseh was near impossible for me. Running an extention cord over the snow was a royal pain. Swapped to 5w30 Mobil 1 and I haven't used the electric starter since.


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## Tony P.

Beyond the minor issue of cost, I can't think of a reason not to use synthetic in a 2-year old snow blower. It's best to go all-in, though, and not use a blend.


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## Kielbasa

For me personally, for what these machines do, the price tag on a quart of oil is senseless.


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## NeoGP

my .02

I agree 100% with everyone stating there is no reason not to use synthetic. these engines hold what 1 quart possibly 1.5 quarts?? for $10-$13/qt I can afford to use synthetic.

What I haven't seen is anyone asking about motorcycle oil.. IMO this is a better choice than automobile oil, because they remove the friction modifiers from it. Now I know some you probably believe this to be snake oil, but hear me out.

Firstly motorycle/atv engines have alot of aluminum, magnesium and some high performance stuff has impregnated ceramic impregnated and titanium. That being said In a motorcycle/atv the "oil" is doing double duty. It lubricates all the engine pieces, rods, crank, valve train, camshafts but it also needs to lubricate the transmission gears and the wet clutch. The forces, heat and general abuse that motorcycle oil gets is not the same as an automobile engine, where it just to lubricate some moving parts and flow around. The motorcycle oil gets crushed between steel and fiber plates in the clutch which is 100's of pound of force. Then it flies over into the transmission and is ground in between the teeth of the gearset.. Then gets pumped back through the system and runs over the valve train. Nowlook that may not mean anything, But motorcycles that are used in places that use snowblowers are run for a few months and put away. Just like our snow blowers, ridden hard and put away wet.

I dunno maybe I'm talking thru my butt since I didn't have my 2nd coffee yet.. I also haven't researched small engine oil, and might be the same as motorcycle oil.


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## Ballroomblitz

I have an older snow blower and changed over to 0W30 synthetic a few years ago, it makes sense to have oil circulating quicker for lubrication and to prevent engine wear at startup. My original manual states to use regular dino oil (SAE 5W30) from -20F to 40F whereas on synthetic (SAE 0W30) I am good at -30F to 40F (maybe more, charts stops at -30F) due to it's viscosity at the lower temps. We only change oil once a season so might as well go full synthetic. I have encountered no excessive oil consumption at all in an older machine with a Tecumseh engine, I just run for the winter and change at the start to the next season.


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## EdwardC

NeoGP said:


> my .02
> 
> I agree 100% with everyone stating there is no reason not to use synthetic. these engines hold what 1 quart possibly 1.5 quarts?? for $10-$13/qt I can afford to use synthetic.
> 
> What I haven't seen is anyone asking about motorcycle oil.. IMO this is a better choice than automobile oil, because they remove the friction modifiers from it. Now I know some you probably believe this to be snake oil, but hear me out.
> 
> Firstly motorycle/atv engines have alot of aluminum, magnesium and some high performance stuff has impregnated ceramic impregnated and titanium. That being said In a motorcycle/atv the "oil" is doing double duty. It lubricates all the engine pieces, rods, crank, valve train, camshafts but it also needs to lubricate the transmission gears and the wet clutch. The forces, heat and general abuse that motorcycle oil gets is not the same as an automobile engine, where it just to lubricate some moving parts and flow around. The motorcycle oil gets crushed between steel and fiber plates in the clutch which is 100's of pound of force. Then it flies over into the transmission and is ground in between the teeth of the gearset.. Then gets pumped back through the system and runs over the valve train. Nowlook that may not mean anything, But motorcycles that are used in places that use snowblowers are run for a few months and put away. Just like our snow blowers, ridden hard and put away wet.
> 
> I dunno maybe I'm talking thru my butt since I didn't have my 2nd coffee yet.. I also haven't researched small engine oil, and might be the same as motorcycle oil.



I think that the real secret is that motorcycle oil isn't always that different than regular automotive oil. My Japanese motorcycles require a JASO-MA (or the newer MA2) specification for their wet clutches. I used oil made for diesel engines in my motorcycles (Shell Rotella T6 5W40 or T4 15W40). I wouldn't hesitate to use those in my snowblower or lawn mower. Also, most snowblowers don't have a wet clutch, so I would personally want my oil to be as slick as possible to lubricate as well as possible.


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## The Q

NeoGP said:


> my .02
> 
> I agree 100% with everyone stating there is no reason not to use synthetic. these engines hold what 1 quart possibly 1.5 quarts?? for $10-$13/qt I can afford to use synthetic.
> 
> What I haven't seen is anyone asking about motorcycle oil.. IMO this is a better choice than automobile oil, because they remove the friction modifiers from it. Now I know some you probably believe this to be snake oil, but hear me out.
> 
> Firstly motorycle/atv engines have alot of aluminum, magnesium and some high performance stuff has impregnated ceramic impregnated and titanium. That being said In a motorcycle/atv the "oil" is doing double duty. It lubricates all the engine pieces, rods, crank, valve train, camshafts but it also needs to lubricate the transmission gears and the wet clutch. The forces, heat and general abuse that motorcycle oil gets is not the same as an automobile engine, where it just to lubricate some moving parts and flow around. The motorcycle oil gets crushed between steel and fiber plates in the clutch which is 100's of pound of force. Then it flies over into the transmission and is ground in between the teeth of the gearset.. Then gets pumped back through the system and runs over the valve train. Nowlook that may not mean anything, But motorcycles that are used in places that use snowblowers are run for a few months and put away. Just like our snow blowers, ridden hard and put away wet.
> 
> I dunno maybe I'm talking thru my butt since I didn't have my 2nd coffee yet.. I also haven't researched small engine oil, and might be the same as motorcycle oil.


Depends on what kind of motorcycle you ride.


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## NeoGP

The Q said:


> Depends on what kind of motorcycle you ride.


What if I used to ride and no longer own a motorcycle???


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## Dauntae

Motorcycle oil IS Motorcycle oil because the lack of friction modifiers, If you put oil with it then your clutch will no longer work and may need to be replaced, Other than that there is nothing special about it, Just can't have friction modifiers in a clutch so it's marked as Motorcycle oil.


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## The Q

NeoGP said:


> What if I used to ride and no longer own a motorcycle???


Then I feel sad for you! Lol
What I was getting at was not all motorcycles use *motorcycle oil.* Harley`s twin cams and M8 motors can use 3 separate oils. Regular motor oil for the motor, a different oil for the primary ( clutch) , and a third for the transmission. Most foreign bike`s motors share the same oil with their clutches and transmissions.
So for a snowblower I use regular slippery synthetic motor oil. Mobil 1 5w-30


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## microcomic

5W-30 oil is okay for Aries snow blower,


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## russkat

For clarification purposes (synthetic vs dino)...
These excerpts are taken from https://localtvwtkr.files.wordpress.com/2017/06/aaa-research-report-synthetic-vs-conventional_final.pdf

_On March 1, 1999, the National Advertising Division (NAD) ruled on case #3526 involving Castrol
Synthetic Engine Oil. The ruling found that “severe cracking and reforming processes” to hydroisomerize
a mineral base stock is indeed a synthesis and therefore the refined product can be advertised as a
synthetic oil. * Because of this ruling, many “synthetic” oils now on the market are composed of highly
processed crude oil.*. 

Groups I-III are derived from petroleum crude oil. Quality conventional engine oils are typically made
from Group II base stocks. They are often manufactured by hydrocracking, a process that saturates the
hydrocarbons within the base stock. Due to the saturation of hydrocarbons comprising the base stock,
Group II oils have good anti-oxidation properties.
Group III base stocks typically undergo a severe hydrocracking process designed to produce a purer base
oil. *A significant number of engine oils marketed as “full synthetic” fall into this category.* 

Group IV base stocks are true “synthetic” base stocks in the technical sense of the word; they are
polyalphaolefins (PAOs) synthesized by oligomerization of α-decene or a mixture of α-olefins containing
between 6-12 carbon atoms. The resulting oligomers are then hydrogenated and distilled to yield the
base stock. Group IV base stocks are lab created, not based upon crude oil._

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Then you have the additives package that is added (detergents, anti wear, anti foaming, anti sludge, etc).
Ideally, those additives should combine with the base stock, but in most cases the additives are mixed
with a crude based carrier and then combined with the base stock.
So even if an oil is a true synthetic based upon group IV base stocks, the carrier used for the additives
package may be crude oil based, so still not 100% synthetic.

*So what does all this mean ?*

In my opinion, very little when it comes to a snowblower, but good to know anyhow.
In a lab setting, most synthetic (group III or IV based) oils outperformed dino oils in every test, but
in the real world it's probably not so cut and dry.
Out of all the oils marketed/labeled as "full synthetic", there are only a handful that use group IV base stocks (no crude), but they may still use a crude based carrier for the additives package.
Some say there are only 2 true synthetic oils available in the U.S. and others say it's slightly more,
maybe as high as 5 or 6. 

For myself, I'll use either Motorcraft 5w30 (since I have a bunch in the garage) or PennGrade 1 (used to be Brad Penn). Both are synthetic blends.


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## 88-tek

Gentlemen, please calm yourselves. I know opinions are like buttholes, most everyone has one, so with that being said, here is my humble opinion. 

When you have a new engine, change the oil as per the instructions in your owner's manual. After the break-in time period, if you want to use synthetic oil, go for it. 

I personally would use synthetic if your blower sits outside 24/7. Otherwise, if it sits in a somewhat warmer location, a garage for example, regular dino oil would be OK.


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## Ariens hydro pro

1) Snowblowers don't use an oil filter. So the oil should be changed at least at the end of season or more often if it's run a lot. 2 years ago I changed the oil during mid season because I was getting water (white cream) on the dip stick.

2) I use 5W-30 regular oil. In 40 years, I have never ran into an engine related problem due to oil. Not in any lawn mower, tiller etc.

However, when I run out of regular oil I will switch over to synthetic. Why? It feels better to use the better oil. Is it needed? Not really. Remember you got to drain it out in 3-4 months anyway....


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## rfw1953

orangputeh said:


> My local honda dealer uses Honda 10w-30 because the temps do not go below zero very often.
> 
> Many years ago a mechanic friend told me the best thing you can do for a motor is to change the oil and filters regularly. Good advice as we have 3 cars still going strong after 330,000 , 297,000 , and 281,000 miles on them. all subarus.



Even though the Honda manual says to use 5W30, My dealer recommended 10W30 Honda oil for the same reason. We rarely go below zero as well. On another note, we purchased a new Subaru Outback last year...Really like this car, especially in the snow.


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## flash_os

Ariens hydro pro said:


> 1) Snowblowers don't use an oil filter. So the oil should be changed at least at the end of season or more often if it's run a lot. 2 years ago I changed the oil during mid season because I was getting water (white cream) on the dip stick.


Bob,
I'm also getting white cream on the dip stick...
But I think it's not a water but foaming effect.
And it's happened only in this season when I switched from Mobile dino to Mobil1 full synthetic 5w-30 oil.


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## jsup

The oil demonstrated to keep your engine cleanest is the new Penzoil Synthetic made from natural gas, not oil. Proven less carbon buildup and sludge. 

Most manufacturers are recommending synthetic today. I run synthetic in everything, I run the Penzoil in my important stuff. Keep it light, no heavier than 0-30. 0-20 if you can get it.

The big thing with Mobil 1 is that it doesn't flash as fast as other oil, so when it gets into the combustion chamber, and it typically does, it doesn't have the effect of lowering octane. 

Here's the Penziol.


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## Ariens hydro pro

Builder said:


> It is my second season with the blower which I bought new late last fall. I did the 5 hour break in oil change and used conventional oil, but was wondering if I should switch over to synthetic oil.


I've been servicing my cars and small engines for nearly 40 years. I never blew up an engine because of using regular oil.
5W30 is a fine choice for a snowblower.

If you want to be extra safe and make yourself feel good use the synthetic. Remember at the end of the season to drain it out and add fresh. This is the trick for keeping your motors running until the bodies fall off, change it after the season is over. That means 1 hour of use or 75....


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## Ariens hydro pro

flash_os said:


> Bob,
> I'm also getting white cream on the dip stick...
> But I think it's not a water but foaming effect.
> And it's happened only in this season when I switched from Mobile dino to Mobil1 full synthetic 5w-30 oil.


No question, It's condensation that collecting inside the engine, because of the super cold weather. The engine is cold then it warms up do to running the engine.

So it's water (steam) that's starting to form inside the engine.

I'd recommend to change the oil or let the engine run longer to completely burn off the moisture.


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## flash_os

So how the heck condensation get over there?!

So you suggest to run the engine with dipstick open/unscrew condition?


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## Toro-8-2-4

flash_os said:


> So how the heck condensation get over there?!
> 
> So you suggest to run the engine with dipstick open/unscrew condition?


It gets there from the Humidity in the air. I would just change the oil, wipe the dip stick clean and not worry too much about it.


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## Ariens hydro pro

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> It gets there from the Humidity in the air. I would just change the oil, wipe the dip stick clean and not worry too much about it.


This in a nut shell.

The same thing happens when you take some meat out of the freezer and let it sit on top of the counter. The wrapper gets all wet. There's your moisture in the air.


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## Money_man

I run full synthetic 5w30 in the blower and mower. No issues whatsoever.


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## JimmyD

jsup said:


> Most manufacturers are recommending synthetic today. I run synthetic in everything, I run the Penzoil in my important stuff. Keep it light, no heavier than 0-30. 0-20 if you can get it.


Most OEMs spec 5W30, 5 being the cold weight and 30 being the hot weight. 0W30 would be fine for exceptionally cold temperatures (think 10F and below) but 0W20 is just too thin for an air cooled engine (which are particularly hard on oil) designed for 5W30. Yes, it's thinner and will flow faster when cold, but that will translate to lower oil pressure in oil passages as well as less film strength when placed under pressure by engine components when hot. 

Just like I'd never run 5W30 in my car (spec'd for 0W20), I wouldn't run 0w20 in my power equipment spec'd for 5W30 or 10W30.


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## mobiledynamics

Aside from it was stored at sub below freezing temps, I'd go on dino oil and just change it often.....


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## jsup

JimmyD said:


> Most OEMs spec 5W30, 5 being the cold weight and 30 being the hot weight. 0W30 would be fine for exceptionally cold temperatures (think 10F and below) but 0W20 is just too thin for an air cooled engine (which are particularly hard on oil) designed for 5W30. Yes, it's thinner and will flow faster when cold, but that will translate to lower oil pressure in oil passages as well as less film strength when placed under pressure by engine components when hot.
> 
> Just like I'd never run 5W30 in my car (spec'd for 0W20), I wouldn't run 0w20 in my power equipment spec'd for 5W30 or 10W30.


A lot of these motor oil weights are given by car manufacturers for fuel efficiency purposes, thinner oil posts better mileage. It also corresponds to the oil pressure gauge, or light depending on what you have. A thinner oil shows lower pressure, and it's noticeable. 

I typically ran what was called "4 stroke small engine oil" and straight weight 30 for a long time. Even specific air cooled motorcycle oil. I'm going to go lighter now. The weights aren't really that critical. The difference between 10-30 and 5-30 or 0-20 in this particular application is negligible, if you're using synthetic. 

Here's the page from my manual.


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## JimmyD

I agree with everything except using any variant of a 20 weight oil. You'll never see an Xw20 spec'd for an air cooled motor because they're exceptionally hard on oil. In an air cooled motor, the oil is doing double duty as both lubrication and direct cooling of components as they lack a water jacket to dissipate heat. Honda, specs a 20 hour/yearly replacement for their HS/HSS line for that reason, and I imagine most others do too.

I know oil is SUPER subjective on the internet, but I think running thinner oil than spec'd is bad news. Even if you are changing it often. I know it's hyperbole, but try running 5w30 in an old Harley shovelhead and you'll have a really bad time.

Ninja edit: very interesting to see the remark about running 10w30 at temps above 27C on a snowblower engine!


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## pitbull plowing

I buy most of my my machines used and the first thing i do is change out the oil even if it looks clean, the first season I buy the auto parts store brand synthetic 5w30 for the snowblowers and if they don't use it like gas, the following season i use amsoil or royal purple. my lawnmower has only seen amsoil small engine formula since it was new and only change the oil once a season or sometimes every 2 seasons, the snowblowers get an oil change every season since they are run in mainly wet conditions and moisture can get in the oil very easy.


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## Blackink

I use Royal Purple Synthetic oil on my small engines: lawn mowers & snowblowers. I contacted the support department of Royal Purple when I was first interested in using their product in my Ariens 921018 Deluxe 30 Platinum Series and what would be the best way to go about it on a new snowblower. Here was their response:

_Good morning Steve,_

_Thank you for contacting us!_

_If your brand new Ariens snowblower comes with oil already in the engine, or has engine oil included in the packaging, we recommend using that factory fill engine oil as your break in oil. Run that until the first factory scheduled oil change and only then upgrade to a Royal Purple synthetic oil. If your Ariens unit does not come with an oil, use any high quality API licensed conventional 5W-30 oil for your initial startup and first oil usage. _
_New engine break in is all about controlled wear, as the new piston rings wear in and match up better with the new cylinder walls. A proper break in can potentially provide better piston ring to cylinder wall seal and compression. All Royal Purple synthetic oils tend to prevent wear a little too well and as a result are not appropriate for engine break in purposes. _

_After your brand new Ariens snowblower engine break in is complete, *Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 (part #31530, quart bottle)(part #36530, 6 pack case) * is an excellent choice, *if Ariens factory warranty compliance is not a serious concern.* _
_HPS: HPS ? High Performance Street Synthetic Oil | Royal Purple _

_*If Ariens factory warranty compliance is a serious concern*, we recommend using our API licensed version of our oil during the warranty period and wait to upgrade to the HPS version after Ariens warranty is off the table. _
_*Royal Purple SAE 5W-30 (part #01530, quart bottle)(part #51530, 5 quart bottle);*_
_This our SAE 5W-30 API-SN and an ILSAC GF-5 licensed oil, and should absolutely be Ariens warranty compliant._
_SAE/API: Synthetic Oil | High Performance Motor Oil | Royal Purple_

_Fuel System: *Royal Purple Max Clean (part #11722, 20oz bottle)*;(cleaner and fuel stabilizer)_
_Max Clean: Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner | Fuel Injector Cleaner_

_Thank you for choosing Royal Purple!_

_Best Regards,_

_*James Morrissey*_
_ Sr. Automotive Technical Support
_______________________________________

_If I didn't know better, I'd swear the Ariens is running smoother with the Royal Purple than it did with the factory oil._
_I also use the same oil on my Toro single stage 518 ZE Model #38473_.
_Great stuff.....
Steve in Central Vermont_
_


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## Rodrick

There are four Type of Motor Oil, and they are:
1. Full synthetic oil. This one is good for vehicles that demand peak level performance and high levels of lubrication.
2. Synthetic blend oil. This oil is a mixture of synthetic and conventional base oils, and some additives. 
3. Conventional oil. This is the most commonly used type of oil.
4. High mileage oil. This type of oil can help reduce oil consumption.


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## penna stogey

Love me some oil thread!!!!!
Amsoil for M/C
Mobil 1 for Ariens and John Deere!


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## TheHolyCannoli

0W-30 full synthetic (usually either Pennzoil Platinum Ultra or Mobil 1) in Connecticut


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## Kielbasa

JSUP, my manual says the same thing. We usually clear snow between the 14 or so degree temperature mark up to 45 degree mark if we are lucky. So I took the synthetic option. I figured that I would be covered in all temperatures. I was not sure what was used in the 2015 Pro 28 for the last 3-4 years, so I just decided on the synthetic. I know the Briggs And Stratton 420CC will really not be working all that hard most of the time, but I fiured anything to help it run as easy as possible could only help. I picked the Castrol Edge Extended Performance Advanced Formula with the Titanium technology with being stronger under pressure. :icon-shrug: Plus it does say I am good for 20,000 miles.  



jsup said:


> A lot of these motor oil weights are given by car manufacturers for fuel efficiency purposes, thinner oil posts better mileage. It also corresponds to the oil pressure gauge, or light depending on what you have. A thinner oil shows lower pressure, and it's noticeable.
> 
> I typically ran what was called "4 stroke small engine oil" and straight weight 30 for a long time. Even specific air cooled motorcycle oil. I'm going to go lighter now. The weights aren't really that critical. The difference between 10-30 and 5-30 or 0-20 in this particular application is negligible, if you're using synthetic.
> 
> Here's the page from my manual.
> View attachment 124562


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## TooTall999

The engines in snowblowers all rely on a splash type lubrication, there is no oil pump, filter or pressurized lubrication. Synthetic oil is proven to not thicken as much at low temperatures, therefore it's going to "splash" better than a cold, thick dino oil.


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## Oneacer

5W30 *Full Synthetic* in all my equipment …. Done.


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## GeorgePowell

I have done my first oil change on my Ariens 30 deluxe efi and have put in the 5-30 synthetic. I also used 1-2 ounces of oil additive that claims it sticks to metal parts to help with dry start. I use the Lucas oil additive, looks and flows like honey ha.


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## Tony P.

GeorgePowell said:


> I have done my first oil change on my Ariens 30 deluxe efi and have put in the 5-30 synthetic. I also used 1-2 ounces of oil additive that claims it sticks to metal parts to help with dry start. I use the Lucas oil additive, looks and flows like honey ha.


My thought is that a quality full synthetic will provide excellent lubrication and protection. What benefit do you see from OTC oil additives in an almost new snow blower?


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## Oneacer

I am thinking that he is thinking of the old school of thought, when people used additives in dino oil.


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## notabiker

Meh, I'll toss in an ounce of redline engine break in stuff that adds zinc if I'm lazy, I'm running dino oil in my blower though because the engine is breaking in still. I'll switch to synthetic when I get around to using up the dino oil I already have for it.


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## GustoGuy

notabiker said:


> Meh, I'll toss in an ounce of redline engine break in stuff that adds zinc if I'm lazy, I'm running dino oil in my blower though because the engine is breaking in still. I'll switch to synthetic when I get around to using up the dino oil I already have for it.


No real need to run dino oil to break in an engine today. I use full synthetic Amsoil 10w/30 or 5w/30 in all my small engines from the day I buy them and change it after a relatively short period of time to flush any casting flash and wear metals from the breaking in. I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GT with over 436,000 miles on it with the original engine and original transmission which uses Amsoil ATF. I bought the car back in 2007 when it had 91,000 miles and I switched it over to Amsoil right away and it keeps going like the energizer bunny. Here is a picture with 430,578 miles on it. It is my son's daily driver and a picture of the car. I also rustproof my cars with Amsoil Metal protectant inside of the rocker panels and an exhaust guy said it has very little rust for a 2003 which is driven in the land of the Salt and ice and snow since I live in Minnesota.


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## 2.137269

one thing i see in this thread is that most people today do not know,

almost all of today's motors care factory filled with a syntech blend or that included bottle for break in, in fact a lot come with a full syntech right from day one. by doing a premature oil change during the break in time. we are all guilty (self included) of not giving a engine enough time for those suspended wear particles of helping seat all the moving parts ,before blasting that motor with the super cleaning additives of these new syntech oils that wash away whats needed,


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## Tony P.

All of us here have our own approach to machine care - including motor oil. Some (like me) choose full synthetic, others go part way with blends, and many go with conventional. Oil additives are somewhat popular. Some change annually, others focus on usage or perhaps have their own, unique approach.

My view, while it's interesting to pontificate on the one best approach (the holy grail that only we know), the fact is that a reasonable level of motor oil care will allow our snow blowers a long life. After all, most non-commercial snow blowers travel only 1/4 mile or so and operate under 24 hours a year. It's hard to imagine any API current standard motor oil option that will damage a machine over many years, assuming some level of care is taken.

Having said that, my approach is best.


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## GeorgePowell

I hope it helps with a dry start ( hopeful thinking) . sometimes the snowblower will sit for quite some time. I put a little in all my small motors (1 ounce or 2 ...no problems yet).


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## notabiker

Forgot to mention I do the Mototuneusa.com style break-in on all my engine things.


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## 2.137269

notabiker said:


> Forgot to mention I do the Mototuneusa.com style break-in on all my engine things.


a cold coors light here


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## daman

Tony P. said:


> GeorgePowell said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have done my first oil change on my Ariens 30 deluxe efi and have put in the 5-30 synthetic. I also used 1-2 ounces of oil additive that claims it sticks to metal parts to help with dry start. I use the Lucas oil additive, looks and flows like honey ha.
> 
> 
> 
> My thought is that a quality full synthetic will
> provide excellent lubrication and protection. What benefit do you see from OTC oil additives in an almost new snow blower?
Click to expand...

There is no benefit especially with Lucas oil additive which basically is just viscosity index improvers(oil thickener) is the last thing you want in cold weather operations, A quality name synthetic like Mobil 1, Amsoil, royal purple, Redline, etc in the proper viscosity is all you need.


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## barney

GustoGuy said:


> No real need to run dino oil to break in an engine today. I use full synthetic Amsoil 10w/30 or 5w/30 in all my small engines from the day I buy them and change it after a relatively short period of time to flush any casting flash and wear metals from the breaking in. I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GT with over 436,000 miles on it with the original engine and original transmission which uses Amsoil ATF. I bought the car back in 2007 when it had 91,000 miles and I switched it over to Amsoil right away and it keeps going like the energizer bunny. Here is a picture with 430,578 miles on it. It is my son's daily driver and a picture of the car. I also rustproof my cars with Amsoil Metal protectant inside of the rocker panels and an exhaust guy said it has very little rust for a 2003 which is driven in the land of the Salt and ice and snow since I live in Minnesota.


That is impressive..the car looks great.


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## GustoGuy

barney said:


> That is impressive..the car looks great.



I also do a transmission drain and fill about every 30,000 miles with Amsoil ATF in addition to regular oil changes at about 10,000 miles. I use Amsoil EA oil filter too which traps over 99.5% of wear particles. Amsoil oil filters are very good and I have used Mobil 1 oil filters too when an EA filter does not exist. I plan on keeping the car until it gets to 1/2 a million miles and right now it is about 64,000 miles away.


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## smiles233

its amazing how many miles and non rust for an area with lots of salt....here in upstate ny we use a lot of salt as well.


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## 2.137269

lets try to keep this thread about type of motor oil!! 
for me i'm using walley world super tech full syntech, it's bottled by the warren oil company who bottle for many oem's. 5 qt container today was $14.88 a pretty good deal, esp. for a full syntech


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## WABOOM

My garage is heated to 42°F so I am using 10W30 Supertech Synthetic in my carbed Ariens Deluxe 30


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## tabora

God I wish we were back in the "Good Olde Days" sometimes, especially when I get an OIL headache... If only there could be just ONE! Just went and looked at the oil shelf:


 1922 Model T Ford = 30W non-detergent Dino
 2004 BMW 325xit = Mobil1 0W40
 2013 Subaru Crosstrek = Shell Gas Truck 0W20
 2004 Hyundai XG350 = Shell Gas Truck 10W30
 Mower/Zero Turn/Chipper = Shell Gas Truck 10W30
Snowblowers/Generators = Shell Gas Truck 5W30
 Honda Motorcycles = Honda HP4/HP4S 10W40
 And a whole bunch of synthetic 2-stroke oils for outboards, chainsaws, trimmers, RC vehicles, etc.


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## Tony P.

WABOOM said:


> My garage is heated to 42°F so I am using 10W30 Supertech Synthetic in my carbed Ariens Deluxe 30


Waboom, using any full synthetic will give you the performance you desire irrespective of storage. The full synthetic SAE grade temperature ranges are 0W-30: -31F to 95F, 5W-30: -22F to 95F, 10W-30: -13F to 95F. I like full synthetic 5W-30 because it makes it easier to pull-start.


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## WABOOM

Tony P. said:


> Waboom, using any full synthetic will give you the performance you desire irrespective of storage. The full synthetic SAE grade temperature ranges are 0W-30: -31F to 95F, 5W-30: -22F to 95F, 10W-30: -13F to 95F. I like full synthetic 5W-30 because it makes it easier to pull-start.


Right on. An easy pull start isn't a big priority since it's in 40° garage. Its simpler for me to buy jugs of 10w30 and use the same oil for my John Deere E140.


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## 2.137269

tabora said:


> God I wish we were back in the "Good Olde Days" sometimes, especially when I get an OIL headache... If only there could be just ONE! Just went and looked at the oil shelf:
> 
> 
> 1922 Model T Ford = 30W non-detergent Dino
> 2004 BMW 325xit = Mobil1 0W40
> 2013 Subaru Crosstrek = Shell Gas Truck 0W20
> 2004 Hyundai XG350 = Shell Gas Truck 10W30
> Mower/Zero Turn/Chipper = Shell Gas Truck 10W30
> Snowblowers/Generators = Shell Gas Truck 5W30
> Honda Motorcycles = Honda HP4/HP4S 10W40
> And a whole bunch of synthetic 2-stroke oils for outboards, chainsaws, trimmers, RC vehicles, etc.


mercruiser 25w40 
harley d is 20w50 for the newer models yet my pan head needs 60w
Cats in the big boat need 15w40 
the plane needs 15w50 

we can all go crazy just keeping what we need in stock


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## stealthninja

I have had good luck with Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic. Not sure what was in the Yamaha YS828W that I just picked up but I know what's going in it now. I always have plenty on hand as a few of my vehicles use it as well. I wait for it to go on sale at Costco when it's $10 off a case of 6 qts = $26.99.


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## GeorgePowell

Yes probably -snake oil- ha , but l do not put in much. Did finally get to use my new deluxe 30 efi and put her to the test (40 cm plus of hard packed snow), Will give some detailed pros and cons later. In all , l am satisfied.


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## stealthninja

I will admit that I have used Marvel Mystery Oil in some of my older 2 stroke weed wackers and backpack blowers as a fuel additive. Just a cap full or so. True story... I bought a brand new Echo BP500T Backpack blower off a guy who had run regular gas in it and seized it. Got it for $50. Drove 7 hours total to get it! I was going to use it for parts. Over last winter I kept adding MMO in the cylinder through the spark plug hole every week. I would try and pull on the recoil each time. Lo and behold after a month the piston started to move. Eventually it was totally free. Last spring I mixed a heavier oil to gas mixture than what it usually runs, 25:1, I believe. Cleaned the plug and fired it up. I smoked out the surrounding neighbors for a while but the thing ran and idled great. I slowly leaned out the gas / oil mix and it stopped smoking and runs great! My wife uses that one as it is lighter than my vintage Solo BP blower that was converted from an orchard sprayer to a leaf blower. I have even added a little MMO to the gas in my Kubota lawn tractor. If nothing else the stuff has a great history behind it. Burt Pierce and the Marvel Carburetor!


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## WABOOM

MMO is a honestly great product. I've used it several time on new and old cars to free things up, and make noises go away.


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## Craiger

Dragonsm said:


> You would be fine to run the non-synthetic oil. My wife's car uses 4 quarts of oil (5w30) and normally the quart left over gets dumped into an empty single quart either for future use in one of my four stroke engines (power washer, Honda lawnmower or snowblower) Normally use either Mobil 1, or havoline/valvoline in a semi-synthetic. Never have had an engine issue related to oil....I change annually....and any 5w30 oil is better than no oil.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Everyone is entitled to their opinion (and a wide variety of opinions is guaranteed when talking about motor oil LOL). Here's my opinion about using "synthetic blend otherwise known as semi-synthetic". If you want the definite superior lubrication advantages of full synthetic, why would you dilute it down with less effective shorter lived dino oil? To me it makes about as much sense as mixing a top shelf Scotch like Glenlivet 18 year old (over $100) with Cutty Sark blended at about $16/bottle. 

I run Mobil 1 5W-20 in my 1972 Ariens 7HP 24" which I bought new. Compression is still great, runs like a champ, doesn't burn much oil, change every three years. Here in Rochester NY where avg. snowfall is 100" a snowblower gets a workout.


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## GeorgePowell

daman said:


> There is no benefit especially with Lucas oil additive which basically is just viscosity index improvers(oil thickener) is the last thing you want in cold weather operations, A quality name synthetic like Mobil 1, Amsoil, royal purple, Redline, etc in the proper viscosity is all you need.


excellant..i suspected the same but was not sure ..thanks buddy


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## micah68kj

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Everyone has different ideas. Most of us recommend using Synthetic. I run Mobil 0-40 Synthetic in everything except my tillers since they only work in warm weather and usually have a pretty heavy load.
> My Walmart stocks it and has the best price.


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## jrcjr

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> It gets there from the Humidity in the air.


No, it gets there because the products of complete combustion are Carbon Dioxide and Water (And Carbon Dioxide, Water, and miscellaneous hydrocarbons for incomplete combustion.)
2 C8H18 + 50 O2 --> 16 CO2 + 18 H2O (By Formula)
2 Octane and 50 Oxygen (Yields) 16 Carbon Dioxide and 18 Water (By Name)


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## fsdfed33

We all grew up on conventional oil which at its coronary heart is crude oil which has been delicate after which blended with additives, visit here. Most artificial oils additionally start as crude but undergo extra complex processing down to the molecular level, ensuing in a lubricant


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