# Power chute switch update?



## GMJim

Hello all first post. I guess there's a forum for everything! I have a 1330SE blower and the L+R switch for the chute is acting up. I can take it apart and bend the contacts back into shape but in time I'll have to do it again and again until it breaks. I understand there is an update switch P/N B11687904 to replace the 1737378YP. Other than the obvious assumption that this is a better switch can anybody give me any information to convince me I need to spend $58 bucks on it?
Thanks
Jim


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## Cardo111

:welcome: aboard GMJim!

Yes even snowblowers enjoy their own forum.

Someone familiar with John Deere blowers should be weighing in soon. Good luck with your chute issue.


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## JayzAuto1

GEvening men, Although I'm not a J/D guy, those switches are simoly double pole/double throw automotive style switches. I use Cole-Hersee switches as replacements. They are not fancy, or expensive, until it gets the green and yellow label. Snapper uses something similar, as well as Simplicity I believe. The draw back with the C/H switches, that I use anyway, is they don't have the fancy label on them. They are a frequent source of troubles, as well as the connectors, as evidenced by the updated harness with it? I'll get hold of the number that I deal with and post it. But again, a wiring update is apparently needeed and is noty contained in the box, as they are not J/D specific. 

GLuck, Jay


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## JayzAuto1

Sorry Guys, Unfortunately, i have all my switches in a big box......None of my DP/DT switches are in their original packaging. I did a quick online search, and found a better C/H switch, Marine style, priced reasonably priced thru an eBay seller. It appears from the pic, that the terminals on the back are laid out different than your original switches and what I have in stock. But looking at that J/D Bulletin, looks suspiciously similar......I'll look into the C/H matching connector, so it could be a matched set. These are Marine duty switches and will be well suited for these conditions. Here is the what I just found on a quick search:

Cole Hersee-Cole Hersee - Rocker Switch, DPDT Mom On-Off-Mom On - M-58031-09-BX-M-58031-09-BX

M-58031-09 - M-58031 Marine Series - Rocker Switches from Switches - Littelfuse

I'll report back with the matching connector. But the part number is the important starting point.

GLuck, Jay


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## GMJim

I don't really want to use aftermarket switches on this machine. It's four years old but is in like new condition and if the aftermarket switch doesn't fit in the bracket properly I would need to modify it to fit. Maybe later when it has a little rust and a few dents I might go that route but not yet. I'll check these out and see if one fits. I was just wondering if the updated switch was worth doing?

Thanks for the links!


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## dbert

It looks to me as if the harness is simply an adapter due to a change in the spade orientation scheme between the old and the new switch. I think Jay is correct and the fancy silk-screened drawing on the switch is where most of the money is going. Locating the switch without instructions printed and the JD markup would be 1/3 the price if you found the original part number.
I understand your desire to keep it looking like new. There must have been enough issues with the first switch that they switched vendors and had to make an adapter.


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## dbert

Forgot to attach the photo all of us have been referring to.


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## skutflut

GMJim said:


> I don't really want to use aftermarket switches on this machine. It's four years old but is in like new condition and if the aftermarket switch doesn't fit in the bracket properly I would need to modify it to fit. Maybe later when it has a little rust and a few dents I might go that route but not yet. I was just wondering if the updated switch was worth doing?


If you want your chute to work when needed, then its worth doing. Not much good if you can't put snow where you want it. Don't use the same switch you have now, as you already know it has a limited life span, unless you just got a bad one. If JD has upgraded to a different switch, and you want to spend to money, might as well. It a matter of pay JD or save a few bucks.

Aftermarket switch measurements are usually given, so just measure yours and compare. Should be able to find one that fits perfect. maybe the graphic wont be there, but as long as you get the switch in the mount oriented correctly, left will be left and right will be right.


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## GMJim

dbert said:


> It looks to me as if the harness is simply an adapter due to a change in the spade orientation scheme between the old and the new switch. I think Jay is correct and the fancy silk-screened drawing on the switch is where most of the money is going. Locating the switch without instructions printed and the JD markup would be 1/3 the price if you found the original part number.
> I understand your desire to keep it looking like new. There must have been enough issues with the first switch that they switched vendors and had to make an adapter.


I'm going to check out the Cole Hersee switch Jay found and then check the machine to see if it will fit in the bracket properly. If it fits I'll rewire it if I have to as well. I don't really care about the printing especially at the price difference.
Thanks.


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## JayzAuto1

J/D doesn't make snowblowers......They are made by another company to their spex and painted J/D Green. The said manufacture's don't make switches, they have said switches painted/silk screened to their spex. I understand your devotion to the brand, and sympathize with you. As has been pointed out, the J/D switches are available through many outlets. I merely suggested a company that more than likely makes that J/D switch, at a cheaper cost, which is what I thought the original question was. It is a standard sized Automotive/Truck dimensioned switch. Very Very Common. If the visuals are that important, then I would switch the lever with the pictures on it. Should be fairly easy, as you have stated you have already had them apart. 
As for my customers, they prefer the savings and willfully do without the OEM button (although i can swap it). I also would not use the adapter harness.....just more unprotected connections to go awry. I would cut off the OEM plug, solder on the correct terminals to the blunt cut ends, secure them to the switch, and pot them in a waterproof coating. It will look factory, and outlast the machine. I warranty my electrical work for the life of the machine.
Originality costs money, I guess the question becomes, "How Original do you want it?"......Purely speculation on my part, But I'm guessing NOT $58 worth

GLuck, Jay


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## GMJim

JayzAuto1 said:


> J/D doesn't make snowblowers......They are made by another company to their spex and painted J/D Green. The said manufacture's don't make switches, they have said switches painted/silk screened to their spex. I understand your devotion to the brand, and sympathize with you. As has been pointed out, the J/D switches are available through many outlets. I merely suggested a company that more than likely makes that J/D switch, at a cheaper cost, which is what I thought the original question was. It is a standard sized Automotive/Truck dimensioned switch. Very Very Common. If the visuals are that important, then I would switch the lever with the pictures on it. Should be fairly easy, as you have stated you have already had them apart.
> As for my customers, they prefer the savings and willfully do without the OEM button (although i can swap it). I also would not use the adapter harness.....just more unprotected connections to go awry. I would cut off the OEM plug, solder on the correct terminals to the blunt cut ends, secure them to the switch, and pot them in a waterproof coating. It will look factory, and outlast the machine. I warranty my electrical work for the life of the machine.
> Originality costs money, I guess the question becomes, "How Original do you want it?"......Purely speculation on my part, But I'm guessing NOT $58 worth
> 
> GLuck, Jay


Jay
Thanks for the info it's greatly appreciated and I'm looking into the Cole Hersee switch you linked here. I'm an auto mechanic by trade and can appreciate using other than factory parts because of cost and quality and after all this isn't a classic car. I just don't want to cut or modify the machine to accomplish the repair but if I can find something that will pop into the bracket without a major modification I'll do it without hesitation. If this was an old machine I was resurrecting I wouldn't have an issue fixing it any way that worked.
Thanks
Jim


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## JayzAuto1

Hey Jim, I completely understand, believe me, as I'm a recovering ASE Master L1 car/truck guy myself. I strongly believe in OEM and keeping it original. But I'm willing to bet, that if you inspect the original switch, you will see the Original Manufacture's symbol on it somewhere, such as C-H, for Cole-Hersee, as they are a major supplier. J/D has their machines made for them. I JUST met a very proud owner of a very new J/D unit. Imagine his surprise when I parked it next to a Snapper......Other than color, and chute control. it was IDENTICAL. And the Snapper has C-H switches in it. I can understand reading this fix on the 'net....Probly BS, I don't have pix of my repairs, but will on the next. The switch drops rite in. no hacking. I use terminals from my assortment, soldered to the wires to fit the new switches smaller terminals and pot them. Looks OEM and will perform better as there are less exposed connections. And I provide Lifetime warranty on my electrical repairs.....How's that for confidence??

It just won't the symbols on it. Although i bet you could swap the covers. I'll take pix of further repairs for future reference. GLuck, Jay


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## GMJim

JayzAuto1 said:


> Hey Jim, I completely understand, believe me, as I'm a recovering ASE Master L1 car/truck guy myself. I strongly believe in OEM and keeping it original. But I'm willing to bet, that if you inspect the original switch, you will see the Original Manufacture's symbol on it somewhere, such as C-H, for Cole-Hersee, as they are a major supplier. J/D has their machines made for them. I JUST met a very proud owner of a very new J/D unit. Imagine his surprise when I parked it next to a Snapper......Other than color, and chute control. it was IDENTICAL. And the Snapper has C-H switches in it. I can understand reading this fix on the 'net....Probly BS, I don't have pix of my repairs, but will on the next. The switch drops rite in. no hacking. I use terminals from my assortment, soldered to the wires to fit the new switches smaller terminals and pot them. Looks OEM and will perform better as there are less exposed connections. And I provide Lifetime warranty on my electrical repairs.....How's that for confidence??
> 
> It just won't the symbols on it. Although i bet you could swap the covers. I'll take pix of further repairs for future reference. GLuck, Jay



I found the switch! I think? CW

Item # GRB234A2NABA1, GRB Series Sealed Rocker Switches for Harsh Environments On CW Industries

http://switches-connectors-custom.cwind.com/Asset/GRB234A2NABA1_1.pdf


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## skutflut

Looks like that might be the one. Just make sure that it is a *momentary *switch, *that returns to the OFF centre position automatically*. 

The one in the photo appears to be a maintained switch, that stays in the position you last put it in, not returning to off by itself. Notice that it is depressed to one side and staying there.

It's probably an option as to momentary or maintained, just make sure you get the right one.

Did you measure the panel cutout hole to confirm your size vs the engineering drawing?


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## skutflut

Looks like that might be the one. Just make sure that it is a *momentary *switch, *that returns to the OFF centre position automatically*. 

The one in the photo appears to be a maintained switch, that stays in the position you last put it in, not returning to off by itself. Notice that it is depressed to one side and staying there.

Its probably an option as to momentary or maintained, just make sure you get the right one.


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## JayzAuto1

I just went thru the spec sheet...It is maintained, NOT momentary. Which means it will not snap back to center off position. It appears to have the same terminals as the original wiring harness on the machine, so snap fit. But the connections AT the switch are a source of problems also. You can use di-electric grease to try to protect the exposed terminals. It says Heavy Duty switch, which can handle high amperage, but does not state that it's Marine Duty, which would give you an extra layer of protection. But not being a momentary contact switch will lead to more problems....More expensive problems, such as burned out motors if left on too long. But they appear to have an extensive catalog, so they probably have the correct one you need. GLuck, Jay


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## GMJim

JayzAuto1 said:


> I just went thru the spec sheet...It is maintained, NOT momentary. Which means it will not snap back to center off position. It appears to have the same terminals as the original wiring harness on the machine, so snap fit. But the connections AT the switch are a source of problems also. You can use di-electric grease to try to protect the exposed terminals. It says Heavy Duty switch, which can handle high amperage, but does not state that it's Marine Duty, which would give you an extra layer of protection. But not being a momentary contact switch will lead to more problems....More expensive problems, such as burned out motors if left on too long. But they appear to have an extensive catalog, so they probably have the correct one you need. GLuck, Jay


Yeah thanks! I don't think it's momentary either. Guess I'll keep looking. The terminal connections look to be the same though.
Jim


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## JayzAuto1

Hey Jim, yes, that is a standard pin configuration for DP/DT switches. They are of a standard auto and truck configuration. There are literally thousands of those types of switches with various functions that fit that standard size and pin configuration. I just quickly looked at that catalog and it is extensive, so I'm sure they have that style, as it's not really fancy. I suggested Cole-Hersee, as they were headquartered in S Boston, not far from me. They are a major supplier and of great quality and are used by OEM Manufactures. They probly have a cross-reference guide too. Keep looking. GLuck, Jay


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## GMJim

Well I fixed the switch for now and the weather seems to be looking better so I may not need the blower until next year I hope. Anyway it gives me some time to source out the switch. Thanks everybody for all the help!
Jim


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## JeffN.

I have a 2014 Simplicity single-stage model 1222ee and the switch for the directional chute failed after few years of use. At that time I took it apart and cleaned the contacts which remedied the situation for a couple more years. At that time I looked for a replacement switch that would last longer and hopefully be less expensive. I eventually purchased a replacement switch from Gama Electronics, part# 232K-BB, $10.95 plus shipping. The switch is rated for 30amps @ 12 volts and is even made in the USA! So far it has held up well. If you go this route you'll need to eliminate the single connector and apply your own connections. Here's the webpage www.gamainc.com/product/232k-bb/


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