# Engine oil drain bolt size?



## Arpinski

Hello everyone,

I purchased a YT624 last week, and I'm thinking about installing a Drainzit engine oil drain hose on it. However I'm having difficulty finding information on the size of the bolt and threads?

Has anyone installed a Drainzit on their Yamaha? Any idea on the size of the engine oil drain bolt?

Thanks for any info.

PS. Im really looking forward to trying my new machine out, my previous machine was a Honda HS622, so the 624 is quite the upgrade!


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## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to SBF Arpinski

You could always try calling a Yamaha dealer or emailing Drainzit.


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## Arpinski

Hey Kiss4aFrog,

Thanks for the advice.... I've already tried a Yamaha dealer and Drainzit.... neither were very helpful finding the bolt size.

I was able to get the part number for the bolt from the dealer, (95022-10016, bolt, flange), however I haven't tried searching it yet.

Cheers


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## Arpinski

Well, just in case anyone else is interested, it appears that the oil drain bolt is 10mm x 1.5 thread.


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## BCCJWC

Arpinski said:


> Well, just in case anyone else is interested, it appears that the oil drain bolt is 10mm x 1.5 thread.


Thank You, please confirm when you get it rigged up.


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## 10953

Arpinski said:


> Well, just in case anyone else is interested, it appears that the oil drain bolt is 10mm x 1.5 thread.


10MM? better have it good and hot before you try to drain it.

real world today,most shops don't pull the drain plugs.some motors don't have one any more .like the kawasaki on my walk behind they use a suction pump drop the hose down the fill tube or hole of a warm engine suction out the oil like http://www.liquivac.com/ 
or have to tilt the engine over into a drain


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## Arpinski

Personaly, if I found out a shop was sucking out the oil instead of draining it properly (assuming there is a drain bolt/hole on the engine), I think I would avoid them. How the heck can they 'suck out' all of the foreign material that settles to the bottom of the crank case? Doesn't seem likely. 

Having said that, my weed wacker uses the oil fill hole as both fill and drain.... wouldn't want to do that with a 250lb tracked snow blower though! Imagine having to tip it over every time?!? Anyway not an issue on the YT624, as it does have a drain bolt/hole.

It's a good idea to warm up the engine before draining the oil, guess a Drainzit should help with making things that much easier. I have one on order, and will confirm it's fitment when I get a chance to install it.

Thanks for the comments.


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## 10953

Arpinski said:


> Personaly, if I found out a shop was sucking out the oil instead of draining it properly (assuming there is a drain bolt/hole on the engine), I think I would avoid them. How the heck can they 'suck out' all of the foreign material that settles to the bottom of the crank case? Doesn't seem likely.
> 
> Having said that, my weed wacker uses the oil fill hole as both fill and drain.... wouldn't want to do that with a 250lb tracked snow blower though! Imagine having to tip it over every time?!? Anyway not an issue on the YT624, as it does have a drain bolt/hole.
> 
> It's a good idea to warm up the engine before draining the oil, guess a Drainzit should help with making things that much easier. I have one on order, and will confirm it's fitment when I get a chance to install it.
> 
> Thanks for the comments.


i can understand your feeling of tilting over a snow blower, impossible, that's why they have drain plugs, tool less fittings or extended drains.

my tilt it over is a kawasaki on on cub cadet, there the shop manual even states tilt over to drain,or suction out, just like many lower priced store lawn mowers. this is more a epa thing to help waste oil go where it cleanly belongs and recycled!! the days of drain plugs are going BY-BY!! get used to it. 

as to the suction way, if you look at where a drain plug sits on a lot of machines,it is above the oil pans lowest spot. again i take my lt1050's cubs 25 hp twin kohler into account, there is always about a half quart left when i refill it, after using the tool less drain, the drain is above the lowest part of the pan, still makes one jack one side of the machine up to use it , yet if i suction it out when the engine has been prerun to heat the oil to about 100 degs, the suction tube is all the way down into the pan bottom and i refill with the 2 qt spec. 

oil change wise take a IO or full inboard in a boat, How do the marine techs change the oil?? SUCTION!! it's the only way save some brands that have a hose in the pan that pulls out of the hulls drain when the boat is out of the water, again there is oil left over in the pan, suction again the tube reaches all the way down into the pan, what ever is down there comes out, not left behind some baffle in a cast pan like on many small engines today,

when the cat service center comes in to service the twin cat c15 acrerts in my 48 foot ocean ss boat. they suction out the 36 qts in each motor ,same with the marina that services my 23 searay's 454 IO, while in the water, suction! 

your 4 stroke weedwacker. yes i know they have that red screw in plug that serves both drain and fill, since the machine is so small the only way possible . what else can be done,pickup the tool tilt on end drain out the 6 or 8 ounces ,refill 

again i was a auto ase gold master tech, what we did 30.40 and 50 years ago ,is no longer is correct,


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## 10953

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/campaigns/just-check-and-add.html
new brigs motors no more oil changes any more just check and add


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## Dauntae

87 powershift said:


> https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/campaigns/just-check-and-add.html
> new brigs motors no more oil changes any more just check and add


Such a disposable society these businesses are creating, No matter what they do or design into any engine, the oil additives WILL eventually break down and the oil will not do the job as intended. Yes the designs do help the oil to last much longer but to NEVER change it. Well like the snow blowers that are 30+ yrs old and still running strong. These new engines won't ever get to be that old and usable on the machines we can buy today in 30 yrs from now.


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## 10953

Dauntae said:


> Such a disposable society these businesses are creating, No matter what they do or design into any engine, the oil additives WILL eventually break down and the oil will not do the job as intended. Yes the designs do help the oil to last much longer but to NEVER change it. Well like the snow blowers that are 30+ yrs old and still running strong. These new engines won't ever get to be that old and usable on the machines we can buy today in 30 yrs from now.


OHHH how correct on breakdown, thing today is almost every engine company wants full syntech oil used which last way longer,has almost no breakdown, heat fails to make it turn to caked coal like sludge.


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## pasrap

Hi. Just made my own vaccum oïl suction system. An old masson jar, some fittings. I also use my shopvac for vaccum pump. I did try to make an oïl change using the plug, and i made such a mess that i have to tink to another way of doing it.


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## 10953

pasrap said:


> Hi. Just made my own vaccum oïl suction system. An old masson jar, some fittings. I also use my shopvac for vaccum pump. I did try to make an oïl change using the plug, and i made such a mess that i have to tink to another way of doing it.


i made a vac pump out of a old refrig pump. don't let it fall over so the lube oil stays in it. make up adapters to use the larger suction side pipe to whatever source you need vac to, i use it all the time to help change engine oil on SE"s even to pull vac on a auto a/c system


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## Lunta

Arpinski said:


> guess a Drainzit should help with making things that much easier. I have one on order, and will confirm it's fitment when I get a chance to install it.


I’m planning a drainzit for my YT660/624.
How was your installation go? All okay?


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## Lunta

Arpinski said:


> Well, just in case anyone else is interested, it appears that the oil drain bolt is 10mm x 1.5 thread.


Half an hour on the internet and I found your (poorly answered by the seller) question on Amazon about the thread pitch.

More worryingly, I found multiple sources of aftermarket bolts to match Yamaha’s 95022-10016, and they all quoted the pitch as 1.25 not 1.5.

All I know for sure from the part number is that the sump bolt is M10 (95022-10016) and 16mm long (95022-10016). 

So it would be great to hear your experiences with the Drainzit.


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## CO Snow

Since this thread is 3 years old and Arpinski hasn’t posted anything for 2 years, I wouldn’t look for a response.


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## Lunta

@CO Snow Yup, I agree that a response from Arpinski is unlikely, but other people will hopefully ready this thread over the coming years, and I have no particular urgency to install the Drainzit.


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## Lunta

Drainzit recommended model HON1010. 
I will install it during the spring oil change.


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## BCCJWC

I pulled the drain plug today.
The threads are M10 x 1.25.
F124N is the valve with these threads. There is not enough room for the valve to clear the frame however for installation so I backed off the motor mount bolts (2 on each side) and then could easily lift/tilt the motor so I should be able to install the valve like this. I think that once it’s installed it should not have any clearance items.
I ordered the valve and Amazon delivery date said Nov 4-17th.
I will update once I get it.


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## BCCJWC

UPDATE:

Valve came in and it worked!

Fumoto F124N M10-1.25

I'm not sure if it was nessarary but I already had the 4 engine mount bolts(12mm) backed off so this allowed me to tilt the motor up a bit and had lots of room to screw the valve in. Then used a 14mm deep socket to tighten the valve. Took less than a minute. Will be really nice to have this on future oil changes.










This picture shows the motor tilted up:









And installed:


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## Lunta

Lunta said:


> Drainzit recommended model HON1010.
> I will install it during the spring oil change.


And pictures as a follow up.


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## Lunta

Am considering removing the drainzit at the next oil change.
The problem is that the drainzit hose can rub on the left wall of snow when clearing paths. This limits the directions I can work in, meaning I try to run with existing snow banks on the right side of the machine, which adds a bit more thinking to blowing routes.

Something to think about for anyone considering a drainzit on a YT660.


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