# How to clean right after use?



## flash4o (Feb 3, 2017)

Been using my new Briggs 24"dual stage, and looks like another storm coming to NE tomorrow.

Right after I was finished, I brought into unheated garage, cleaned off snow.

Then after it was dry (or mostly) wiped down with a rag so there was no sitting water.

Then sprayed Liquid Wrench Heavy Duty Silicone Spray Lube (has SB pic on front) on all metal parts to help prevent rust and keep lubed.

Am I missing anything?

This is just the post storm routine - not end of season. That will be more involved.

Am I hitting all the right bases?


----------



## outrag1 (Feb 10, 2017)

someone mentioned in another thread about using a product called Fluid Film (from Lowes) as a coating and rust preventative...I'm going to look into this myself


----------



## flash4o (Feb 3, 2017)

outrag1 said:


> someone mentioned in another thread about using a product called Fluid Film (from Lowes) as a coating and rust preventative...I'm going to look into this myself


I grabbed a can of this, too. Just happened to use the other stuff first.


----------



## Fat City (Feb 11, 2017)

I use a Propane Construction Heater, and a Propane Catalytic Heater to defrost the machine . Wiping and lubing is good, but the real issue is removing what you can't see, like ice build up in Transmission Drive, Auger Housing, Recoil Starter and so on.
Over the years, I've seen many Electric Starters aquire Bent Armatures when the Operator tries to start an iced up machine .
During severe cold, I use the heaters to pre - heat the machine so the lubricants flow freely.


----------



## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I usually just put the snowblower back in the garage and go inside. The snow melts eventually, since the garage maintains about a 40 F temperature.

I am wondering if spraying the machine with WD would attract added dust/dirt over time.


----------



## DuffyJr (Oct 15, 2015)

I still think the best thing you can do is brush off what you can and park the bucket on a rubber truck mat so when it does melt it's not sitting in the water. I use a cheap truck mat because there stiffer unlike the nicer weather tech ones that stay pliable. This channels the water away from the bucket and the stiffness of the mat won't allow the ridges to buckle under the weight.


----------



## nastorino (Jan 28, 2016)

I use fluid film as a recommendation from my dealer. Wait until the whole unit is dry and then coat everything orange, and then any springs, the auger, axles...everything. Unfortunately it smells like crap but I'm told that the rust inhibitor capabilities are like no other.

As far as immediate cleaning and drying I don't do anything to my unit. It stays a little frosty until the garage warms up with ambient air. In the spring I'll give it a wash down.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fluid-Film-11-75-oz-Fluid-Film-Rust-Corrosion-Preventive-Penetrant-Lubricant/50335157


----------



## ih8thepackers (Jan 4, 2014)

I bought some fluid film and used it on my new machine,and it didn't stop the snow from sticking to the auger and inside the the chute,but I only used it once(because I dropped the can and broke the sprayer tip off) also I agree it does stink,not like wd-40,or any silicone spray.more like rotten grapes.or something like that.


----------



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I just found this discussion on what appears to be a home-brew with lanolin similar to Fluid Film.
Rust prevention with Lanolin


----------



## GregNL (Jan 9, 2017)

I use an old car brush and clean the snow off most everything. I generally follow that with a light coating of Teflon spray on the augers, the impeller, inside and outside the bucket and anywhere else snow may accumulate on metal as it makes cleanup super quick next time, you can brush most of it away with your hand. Teflon will prevent water creep in tight spaces so ice cannot form if stored in a cold area or during use.

Fluid film is great stuff but I'd use it more so for long term storage or to lube moving parts as it's very thick rather than an every time after use spray or to reduce snow resistance. Teflon will create a anti-rust moisture barrier, it's been working great on my Yamaha so far this season. Silicon would also work if using it every where on the machine, otherwise I'd use a light rust inhibiting spray for specific targeted areas only. I may pick up a bottle of Dry Coat and try it out: Dry Coat | Rust Prevention | Armor VCI


----------



## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Well after this past storm I really didn't have any snow in side of the bucket area to clean off because of wax being on these areas. But there was a little snow here and there. Two days after we had some 40 degree weather so I put her in to the sun and I let the sun do a little more melting. Then I made a few adjustments to her. Filled her with gas, gave the inside of the chute and the exit hole another coating of wax and she is ready for the next storm.

Quick maintenance before the next storm... :blowerhug:


----------



## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

flash4o said:


> I grabbed a can of this, too. Just happened to use the other stuff first.


I tried it inside the auger and impellor housings. I found that when it's extremely cold snow will sort of build up on the fluid film. Was forming a partial blockage frozen build up in the chute. In average temps it seemed OK. I decided to use the Teflon spray as I never know for sure what the next storm will be like. I do like fluid film for off season storage thou. A bit expensive but not too bad if you buy it by the gallon and apply with an undercoat gun.


----------



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

I clean off the whole machine with the plastic clean-out tool provided from the manufacturer, Ariens. Then I get what's left with my hand and park the whole unit in my unheated garage. Since the temp in the garage usually doesn't get below freezing, although it can on occasion, I place the front end on a 1/2" thick piece of wood. This ensures that the whole snowblower is not sitting in water and really seems to prevent rust on the bottom of the bucket. 

I did wax the machine a few weeks back, but it didn't seem to make all that much of a difference with respect to snow sticking to it. I think the chute was a bit cleaner than normal, but I don't think the waxing made a big difference inside the bucket. Maybe I need to do it more if other guys are seeing a difference???


----------



## GregNL (Jan 9, 2017)

LPS makes some very good products as well such as LPS-2 (lighter coating), LPS-3 (heavier wax build coat) great for long term storage or vehicle use for rust protection and LPS HardCoat which has high salt resistance abilities though it's marketed for aviation.

I was into my local Princess Auto today and noticed Lloyds AD2000 Corrosion Inhubitor & Lubricant, not sure if this is available in the US, and their AD3000 Protective Barrier Film & Lubricant which seems the same as Fluid Film at 1/2 the price.


----------



## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

*Which wax*

Perhaps this should be a new topic, but here goes.

I've noticed here and other topics frequent mention of waxing the auger/impeller housing to avoid snow sticking. I had some turtle wax handy but using that didn't seem to make a difference.

Doing research, I've come across numerous water repellent waxes and similar products but they're pretty expensive.

So, I'm wondering if anyone has a wax product that works and is easy to use in a confined area like the housing. BTW, I'm avoiding petroleum based products because I used SBR for my impeller paddles before I learned of its problems with petroleum lubricants.


----------

