# Craftsman Trac Drive 5/24: Auger always stays engaged



## Foreverfalcon40

This is my first Trac-Drive Snowblower...I have always wanted one just because the Gear-head inside me had to have one.

I finally came across one USED, but needed some love.

I got her to a good point BUT the only issue where I am stumped is that the Auger is engaged regardless if I holding the lever or not.

Model #: 536885472
I did not come with the owner's manual and I couldn't obtain one from Sears.com. I spoke with a Sear's Rep via their online chat and said that 
Model# 536.885471 is the exact blower. (I listed that incase anyone wants to look at parts diagrams)

I bought the blower knowing this issue and I quickly identified that the incorrect (shorter) belt was installed.

I installed the correct auger drive belt(Kevlar): 37x120ma (Alt Part# 581264ma).

Pulley as well as Cable are adjusted as well.

Just for sake I disconnected the cable (thinking it could be to tight and problem still persist).

Please help as I rather not chew up the bearing and cause extra stress on the Auger Gear.

Thanks,

FF40


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## skutflut

Foreverfalcon40 said:


> I installed the correct auger drive belt(Kevlar): 37x120ma (Alt Part# 581264ma).
> 
> Pulley as well as Cable are adjusted as well.
> 
> Just for sake I disconnected the cable (thinking it could be to tight and problem still persist).
> FF40



Did you look at the idler wheel that presses against the belt when the /Auger clutch lever is depressed? That wheel engages the back of the belt and presses it inward to tighten the belt against the engine pulley. When the lever is released, the idler should back away from the belt allowing it to go slack, so the engine pulley can spin inside the belt, and the belt does not move. Check that linkage. There should be a spring that actually pulls the idler arm away from the belt when the clutch is released. Make sure that idler arm/wheel assembly is moving freely and that the spring is there.

You also need to check that the brake, which is on the bottom end of the idler arm, is not running on the inside of the belt, the V part, but is running against the back of the belt, the flat part. Easy to get it wrong when installing a new belt, and if its wrong, it will cause drag, and smoke the belt. When the idler is released, the arm moves away from the belt at the wheel end, and closer to the belt at the brake end, and the brake is NOT between the belt and the pulley.

If you cannot get slack in the belt and everything is running free, and the brake is in the correct place, you may STILL have to short a belt.

Just getting my coffee so that's all I have for now. Take a look and see if everything is working free and easy, by which time I'm sure somebody else will arrive with more trouble shooting advise.


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## Foreverfalcon40

Thank you for your response,

The pulley is set to a position where it does engage the belt when lever is not engaged.
There is def enough slack in the belt due to the fact I was able to slide it over pulley to install it ( I also had to hold back the tensioner). The belt has it's back (smooth end) facing the pulley.

Enjoy your coffee


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## skutflut

When you run the engine, with the belt cover off, is the auger belt spinning even with the clutch released, and the idler wheel not engaging the belt? Watch your fingers.


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## Shryp

If the engine pulley is rusty it could be rough enough to grab the belt regardless. If that is the case you can knock most of it down with a wire brush and the belt will take care of the rest.


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## skutflut

Did you locate your problem?


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## Foreverfalcon40

Sorry for the extreme delay in response...

I apologize but life got in the way...

I decided to dive into it today.

I did clean the pulley with a wire wheel and brush.

The problem still exists.


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## Foreverfalcon40

skutflut said:


> When you run the engine, with the belt cover off, is the auger belt spinning even with the clutch released, and the idler wheel not engaging the belt? Watch your fingers.


Belt still spins. I will take a video and upload it by the end of the day or tomorrow.

Thanks again for all your help. Enjoy the Beautiful Memorial Day


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## Foreverfalcon40

I will take a video today and post it.

Out of curiosity what would be the next size belt up? I know my local repair shop won't let me switch em out of I install one. Maybe there is some sort of conversion for auto part belt where they are more lax in their return policy.


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## HCBPH

Foreverfalcon40 said:


> I will take a video today and post it.
> 
> Out of curiosity what would be the next size belt up? I know my local repair shop won't let me switch em out of I install one. Maybe there is some sort of conversion for auto part belt where they are more lax in their return policy.


There are a number of reasons that an auger still turns regardless of the control.
Check the linkage, typically there is a 'brake' pad that presses against the pulley when not engaged to keep it from turning. 
Rust on the pulleys was mentioned. 
Misadjusted idler is possible as is having the belt misrouted.
Wrong belt length or width is also possible.

If you have a farm supply near you, check them out as they likely will have differing length and width belts. They' typically also stronger for things like blowers than car belts would and last longer IMO.


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## Foreverfalcon40

HCBPH said:


> Foreverfalcon40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will take a video today and post it.
> 
> Out of curiosity what would be the next size belt up? I know my local repair shop won't let me switch em out of I install one. Maybe there is some sort of conversion for auto part belt where they are more lax in their return policy.
> 
> 
> 
> There are a number of reasons that an auger still turns regardless of the control.
> Check the linkage, typically there is a 'brake' pad that presses against the pulley when not engaged to keep it from turning.
> Rust on the pulleys was mentioned.
> Misadjusted idler is possible as is having the belt misrouted.
> Wrong belt length or width is also possible.
> 
> If you have a farm supply near you, check them out as they likely will have differing length and width belts. They' typically also stronger for things like blowers than car belts would and last longer IMO.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your response, according to the Sears Parts diagram this is the correct belt. Belt is installed correctly and idler is adj. all the way back. Hopefully today after work I have some time to shoot and post a video.

I honestly thought about and brake on the bottom auger pulley, but overlooked it due to the fact I own older machines and never seen them wear out. I will order a new one and slap it on.

Just an FYI, gave it a good detail and I believer that the auger gear case gasket let go at one time and covered the inside of the chute and mouth. Could that be an issue? Something is not right inside? I have opened a gear case in a newest craftsman bc the auger shaft broke...


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## Foreverfalcon40

I GOT IT LOL!

So the lever that holds down the brake for pulley just needed to be pushed back (towards the engine) into place. How got pushed forward (toward the chute) is beyond me. Here is a photo of what I am talking about...hope it helps. I got lucky...A member here suggested I check the brake pad. I started the blower and pushed down on the pad. The pulley stopped...so did the auger. I almost called it quits (going to order a new brake pad). I thought there is no way it could be worn so much. I pushed the pad back towards the engine (the lever on the lad moved too). It stopped and bam! 

Thank you so much. I gave her a quick detail and will store it for winter!

First pic where the Green handle screwdriver is what I was talking about. I am tossing around the idea is sticking some washers inbetween the lever and chute so it doesn't move again!


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## evh

I have many parts available for your snowblower. Let me know if you need anything.


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