# HS928 Difficult to steer?



## boobird (Jun 24, 2018)

Is the HS928 difficult to steer (2015 model)?

I will have it stored in a small shed and need to move it in and out while unpowered.

Are there any issues with the 928 motor being only 8HP (270CC)?

I'm looking at one for $900.


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

Like all wheeled snow mules you have to push down on the handle bars and then push or pull and turn to get them where you want them to be. You will have to decide if you can handle it by moving it around in neutral.

If you have the room just back the snow blower into the storage place. 
With it being cold that is going to be another issue and you need to be sure both the starter rope and the recoil spring are good order on it to reduce the chance of the rope breaking on you.

The other thing is remembering to pull the starter rope until the piston is near the top of the cylinder to help it start more easily and for you to reduce the chance of a shoulder muscle strain injury. 

You have to prevent it from freezing up by making sure all the snow it out of the snow blower impeller housing by running it empty to create enough heat to melt the snow in the impeller housing. Its either doing that or spending a lot of time laying on a good water proof tarp while cleaning out the impeller housing by hand with the spark plug cable detached from the spark plug while you are cleaning it. 

Its a must that you treat your fuel with a preservative like seafoam or stabil. I use sea foam and I have used it for a very long time for my 2 cycle snow mules and the JD junk. you can treat it in the can or in the tank. I add a splash of sea foam to the gas tank every time I use them if the mixed gas is untreated or if I remember to do it treat the fuel in the can with 2 ounces for every 2 gallons of 2 cycle fuel mix. 
If you can buy ethanol free high octane fuel all the better and be sure to treat the ethanol free gas with a preservative.

You should also drain the fuel from the fuel bowl on the carburator by shutting off the fuel line(if possible) and closing the choke to burn up the remaining fuel in the carburator. it will take a few times but by doing that you will have no issues with fuel ever and the snow blower will start right up with a little choke.

You also need to make sure the tires are filled with air up to the recommended air pressure to maintain traction while working.
If your saddled with a lot of ice or a huge End Of Driveway Monster its a good Idea to buy some snow chains for it as well.

Another big help is fluid film as it helps reduce plugging and you can also coat everything that contacts snow several times to aid in keeping the snow blowers chute from plugging and the salt laden snow from sticking to the snow blowers cross augers and the cross auger housing.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

you do know that there is a lever below between the rear axle that says released to the left and engaged to the right? If you are just moving it around put it in released position to disengage the transmission. the 928's with wheels are much easier to steer than the ones with tracks.

the serrations or teeth on the augers look all ground down in these pictures. not good.this happens when the skid shoes and scraper blade are not properly adjusted. the bottom of bucket is probably pretty damaged as well. will still blow snow but not well. will just push a lot of snow to the sides.

8 hp honda with a 28 inch bucket should be powerful enough for the majority of situations. where are you at? how much area do you need it for? just residential use or commercial?

new augers are very pricey. the rest of machine does not look too bad.is this the one for 900? is it yours or the one you are looking at?


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## boobird (Jun 24, 2018)

orangputeh said:


> you do know that there is a lever below between the rear axle that says released to the left and engaged to the right? If you are just moving it around put it in released position to disengage the transmission. the 928's with wheels are much easier to steer than the ones with tracks.
> 
> the serrations or teeth on the augers look all ground down in these pictures. not good.this happens when the skid shoes and scraper blade are not properly adjusted. the bottom of bucket is probably pretty damaged as well. will still blow snow but not well. will just push a lot of snow to the sides.
> 
> ...


Thanks for noticing the auger tips. This is posted for sale on CL and I'll be passing on it!

What do you think of these options? 
Good condition Ariens 11528LE
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/142551-ariens-11528le-ar-924125-a.html

Beat up Toro 1128 OXE
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/toro-snowblowers/142549-toro-1128-oxe-non-hd-version.html


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

boobird said:


> Thanks for noticing the auger tips. This is posted for sale on CL and I'll be passing on it!
> 
> What do you think of these options?
> Good condition Ariens 11528LE
> ...


if you could find an old 828 or 928 honda real cheap that had excellent augers I would switch them out but not sure what else is wrong with that machine. if the bottom of bucket is damaged it would be worth only a could hundred for parts ( for me ) unless you could cut out damage and weld in a plate which is a lot of work . If this machine has augers this bad who knows what els is wrong with it. the seller did a good job cleaning it up nice.

don't know anything about ariens and toros since i live in big snow country and Honda's rule here.

plenty of other here at the SBF can help you with these machines. Also on you-tube check out donyboy73 and watch his videos on "what to look for in a used snowblower" he is one of the best small engine guys around.

good luck . you are smart to look now and get a good deal before the snow flies.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

leonz said:


> You have to prevent it from freezing up by making sure all the snow it out of the snow blower impeller housing by running it empty to create enough heat to melt the snow in the impeller housing. Its either doing that or spending a lot of time laying on a good water proof tarp while cleaning out the impeller housing by hand with the spark plug cable detached from the spark plug while you are cleaning it.



What - No Fluid Film recommendation? Did you sell your Stock ? LOL


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

I added the information on Fluid Film and edited my posting.
:grin::behindsofa::icon-stooges:


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

leonz said:


> I added the information on Fluid Film and edited my posting.
> :grin::behindsofa::icon-stooges:



Another royalty check will be arriving shortly ! LOL


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

Sorry to resurrect and old thread but I just got an older HS928 with wheels and was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to turn the bloody thing, or is it broken?

When not running and the transmission lever is disengaged it still is quite hard to move forward and backward. There seems to be no differential so the wheels are locked together and will not turn.

When it is running and driving the wheels are still locked together with no differential action and it is super hard to turn for this old fart. 

Any advice would be appreciated.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

lomax said:


> Sorry to resurrect and old thread but I just got an older HS928 with wheels and was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to turn the bloody thing, or is it broken?
> 
> When not running and the transmission lever is disengaged it still is quite hard to move forward and backward. There seems to be no differential so the wheels are locked together and will not turn.
> 
> ...


make sure it is disengaging. move that lever and see if shaft is moving in and out of the hydro tranny. there is a pin that locks the lever into shaft. that may be missing.

really need more info.

there may be an issue with the final drive gearbox.


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

Thanks, I will take a look. Moving the lever does disengage the drive but it seems like it is still moving all the belts and pulleys, there is a lot of drag on it when moving it. I would no think that you would need to stop, turn off engine, move lever to disengage, turn, move lever back to drive, start, keep going. I can't imagine anything designed that way.

I guess I can assume there is no differential on this model machine and the wheels are locked together all the time no matter what.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

belts should not be turning. did you take belt cover off and see this?

I have this 928 I built from the ground up. In the disengaged position the machine moves freely. When you move the machine or run it in engaged position , does it click, or make any strange sounds? does it drag? it should be VERY smooth. 

Like i said in previous post if not smooth may be issue with right side tranny gearbox which BTW is very easy to work on. 

Too bad you couldnt post a video so it would be easier for us to see what you are speaking of.


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

Thank you. I will take the cover off and see what the belts and pulleys are doing. i will try and get a video this weekend. When running the engine and having the trans in the engaged position there are no abnormal noises and the hydrostatic drive seems to work very smoothly. When the engine is off and the trans is disengaged the machine will mover forward and backwards but has very high friction. It takes a lot of pressure to move it forward or backward. It also makes a humming noise (technical term LOL like belts dragging or something causing lots of friction. 

I will try and get video.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

lomax said:


> Thank you. I will take the cover off and see what the belts and pulleys are doing. i will try and get a video this weekend. When running the engine and having the trans in the engaged position there are no abnormal noises and the hydrostatic drive seems to work very smoothly. When the engine is off and the trans is disengaged the machine will mover forward and backwards but has very high friction. It takes a lot of pressure to move it forward or backward. It also makes a humming noise (technical term LOL like belts dragging or something causing lots of friction.
> 
> I will try and get video.


In the released position the drive shafts still engage the gears in the right side gearbox and you will hear them but the machine will still move forward and back ( with engine off ). So, yes there should be a little drag but not a lot.

In the engaged position with engine off the tranny should be locked up and the machine should not move. ( maybe with a lot of effort but I dont like to force may machines )

A lot of exertion like you mention in the disengaged position does not sound right. It may be partially engaged while in the disengaged position.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

lomax said:


> When not running and the transmission lever is disengaged


Just want to be sure you're actually disengaging the *Transmission Release Lever* and not just the drive lever on the handlebars... See the page attached.


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

Here are a couple of videos I just took. I have not had time to take the belt cover off and inspect. It is probably normal but I bought this to not work so hard, RE, shovel, and it appears this is going to be just as hard to muscle around while plowing. Of course if it ever snows again maybe it will just slide around with no issues on the snow. ???

OK lets try Google Drive. Yes I did read the manual and the trans is fur sur disengaged









IMG_0149.MP4







drive.google.com













IMG_0150.MP4







drive.google.com


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

lomax said:


> Here are a couple of videos I just took.


Sadly, no one can see those without a SmugMug account... Did you check the document I sent you earlier?


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

Try that  Yes I did read the Manual. Please excuse my poor one handed videography attempt.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

lomax said:


> Try that  Yes I did read the Manual. Please excuse my poor one handed videography attempt.


looks normal to me. maybe you need a new HSS Honda with power assist turning.


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

Yea, I got $2700 for something I am going to use twice a year, Yea That's the ticket.  I have never had one of these before and just wanted to make sure it seemed fairly normal.

Thank you all for the education.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

lomax said:


> Yea, I got $2700 for something I am going to use twice a year, Yea That's the ticket.  I have never had one of these before and just wanted to make sure it seemed fairly normal.
> 
> Thank you all for the education.


You came here asking for help. And we tried. Sorry if you didnt test out this machine before you bought it.

Thanks. FWMFT.


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

Thank you so very much for the help. You were very helpful So sorry if you misunderstood me. I don't have the money for a high dollar machine so got this older lower level model and am just asking if mine is normal. Not sure why you took this personaly but it was not meant that way.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Lomax, you got a lot of help from a respected member, and an expert on Honda snowblowers. If you want to continue getting help, you should not be burning bridges.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

That machine has the 'Live Axle' meaning it has no differential, both wheels drive at the same time for increased traction so it is normally harder to turn/steer, which many others are the same way.
They do have increased resistance when trying to 'Free-wheel' it around or to push around when the engine is not driving it, that is completely normal on that model.
The noise you hear is the gears in the transmission and also the Hydrostatic noise which is completely normal.
The newer 'HSS' or 'Steerable' model moves easier when trying to push it by squeezing the steering triggers to release the wheel axles from the transmission.
The model you have has the stronger more robust Honda built transmission in it.


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

Thanks sT1100A, That explains exactly what I was asking. Great forum all


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## lomax (Mar 22, 2021)

RIT333 said:


> Lomax, you got a lot of help from a respected member, and an expert on Honda snowblowers. If you want to continue getting help, you should not be burning bridges.


And it was greatly appreciated. Not sure why everyone here is so testy. ?? Must be from being cooped up.  )this is the smiley imoje saying it was meant in a light hearted tone)


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

lomax said:


> Thank you so very much for the help. You were very helpful So sorry if you misunderstood me. I don't have the money for a high dollar machine so got this older lower level model and am just asking if mine is normal. Not sure why you took this personaly but it was not meant that way.


Basically you do have a 'High Dollar' machine, that is very far from being a 'Low Level' machine. Also it is not an 'Older' machine, it is a 'Honda'.
Older Honda's don't show their age and wear out as fast as many other manufacturers machines do. There are many old Honda machines still running today, still like they are new or newer than what people could imagine. Honda's were built to 'Last the Test of Time'.
There are many people on here and out there in the world that have Honda machines that are 25-30-40 years old and still work extremely well for their age.
The 'Older' machine you have is built better than the 'New' ones are, with less problems and 'Bugs' that the new ones are having with all their fancy 'Bells and Whistles' on them.
Honda snowblowers were built for 'Commercial Duty', which is much more than 'Homeowner Duty' that everyone else's are built for.
I deal with many people who traded their 'Older' Honda in for the 'New' model with all the Fancy 'Bells and Whistles' and they are sorry for doing so, they wished they kept their 'Old' Honda because it didn't give them any problems at all, they never had to take it back to the dealership to have recalls and 'Product Updates' done to it, like they had to have done with their 'New' Honda snowblower.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

ST1100A said:


> Basically you do have a 'High Dollar' machine, that is very far from being a 'Low Level' machine. Also it is not an 'Older' machine, it is a 'Honda'.
> Older Honda's don't show their age and wear out as fast as many other manufacturers machines do. There are many old Honda machines still running today, still like they are new or newer than what people could imagine. Honda's were built to 'Last the Test of Time'.
> There are many people on here and out there in the world that have Honda machines that are 25-30-40 years old and still work extremely well for their age.
> The 'Older' machine you have is built better than the 'New' ones are, with less problems and 'Bugs' that the new ones are having with all their fancy 'Bells and Whistles' on them.
> ...


You ( ST1100A ) and I seem to be the only ones with this contrarian view. I service/repair Hondas on the side and I hear this all the time. New Honda owner buyers remorse wishing they had kept their old Honda's.

Sure there are MANY new owners that are happy. They are the ones that usually only use their machines a handfull of times. The people to talk to are the professionals who use 5-10-15 machines in commercial snow removal operations where machines can be used 5-10 or more hours a DAY for snow storms.

These are the people that are unhappy with the new machines. The machines are in the shop almost as much as working. We have already listed the problems here many times. I won't work on them. Business owners have come over to my garage asking me to work on their fleets ( one had 11 machines and one had 7 ) and I turned them down. 

I did repair/service two older Honda HS1132's for one company . The head mechanic came over this past summer and told me out of their fleet the 2 machines I worked on were the only 2 that did not break down last winter.

They are going back to buying older 928's and 1132's .Some people here think we are exaggerating about the shortfalls of the new machines. The proof is in the pudding when you talk to professionals who rely on Honda snowblowers to make their living. 

Unless the owners of these businesses are mechanics and can do all the work and upgrades , they will be losing money with their machines at the shops. Even the dealers in my area who I am friends with will tell you the new machines are not built to last as the older ones. 

I do like the height control on the new machines but we figured a way to retrofit the older HS models with this. This pic is of an older HS928 retrofitted with the new bucket height control.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

orangputeh said:


> You ( ST1100A ) and I seem to be the only ones with this contrarian view. I service/repair Hondas on the side and I hear this all the time. New Honda owner buyers remorse wishing they had kept their old Honda's.
> 
> Sure there are MANY new owners that are happy. They are the ones that usually only use their machines a handfull of times. The people to talk to are the professionals who use 5-10-15 machines in commercial snow removal operations where machines can be used 5-10 or more hours a DAY for snow storms.
> 
> ...


100% agree with everything you said Orangputeh.
I forgot to mention how well old Honda's hold their 'Value' when trading them in or just plain selling them.
Look at what used ones sell for from people who know the value of them.
Some people are very lucky to find them at a low price that don't need much in repair work, or any repair work at all, as you deal with quite frequently.
Nice job on the bucket height control.


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