# Track drive concerns on blacktop. Also slowing speeds. HSS928ATD



## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Hey everyone, so I'm having concerns with my purchase of a track driven snowblower. I bought a hss928atd last year and after today have used it for the 3rd time. I'm seeing significant user advantages with my MTD 826 wheeled unit compared to my hss928 track.

My driveway was although under 10 years old is not perfectly level or smooth. The blacktop has heaved in a bunch of spots creating high spots. These high spots do very little to disrupt my MTD wheeled blower. The Honda on the other hand loves to bite and pitch left and right forcing me to correct and adjust. 

I bought and installed the heavy duty side skids after its first use. Better... But frankly the machine is making me work to hard. So as i see it, the tracks have a lot of surface area compared to tire which allows it "float" on snow allowing for excellent traction for doing skim cuts with the bucket elevated and cleaning on inclines.

With the bucket on the ground (scraper blade spaced 1/4) and the skids... skidding.... the tracks float their way side to side. 

I tried keeping my thumb on the height adjustment lever to allow the bucket to adjust to the whoops in my driveway and their was no significant improvement.

I feel that poly skids might help my situation. Perhaps even uhmw added to my OE heavy duty skids.

Has anyone rectified this type of problem?

Unrelated thing, my machines top speed slowed quite a bit from when i started cleaning and was wrapping up. I might be one of the lucky guys that has an under filled transmission and aeration issues.

P.S. Threw the snow super far and never clogged. Even on the wet salty end of driveway stuff.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Ok, talking skid shoes... Poly shoes, does anyone use them on their track machine?

Heres what I found available. None of which Specify being UHMW


Robalon $32 + Shipping - Robalon A148BS Snowblower Skid Shoes
Has OEM fit and finish in mind
Not UHMW


Arnold universal $36 + shipping - Fits Most Two-Stage Snow Throwers. Reversible for Longer Life. - Universal Poly Slide Shoe Kit
The length disperses the weight well and Reversible
Not UHMW and lacks the fit and finish of a honda specific part


Fall Line $30 + Shipping - Honda Snow Blower Skid Shoe - Polyurethane Snow Blower Skid Shoes - Fallline
Looks pretty much the same as the Rabalon

On the flip side... I can make my own to my own optimized dimensions. It shouldn't be too hard to mill out slots. I've seen people in the toro and mtd forum make there own.

12" x 12" x 3/4" UHMW sheet $28 PRIME - enough material for 4 skid shoes.


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## SB83 (Dec 15, 2015)

I'm using the Robalon skids and they work great. They hold up well and have that same surface feel as UHMW poly. 

I have a similar driveway scenario and you need to get rid of the high friction contact points. This makes a dramatic difference in eliminating that grabbing effect that has you working so hard to correct for it. While you're at it, adding 1/8" UHMW sheet to the OEM rears works really well too if you mechanically attach them with countersunk bolts. Some people remove the rears, but leaving them on makes the machine more stable when you catch just one of the 4 contact points on a high surface. While you're at it, sandwiching a 1/8" UHMW strip under the scraper let's you get right down to pavement as it flexes on the uneven sections.

Do these things and your machine will be effortless to operate and it won't waiver directionally at all. Then just steer with the clutch levers. The other benefit with a low friction setup on inclines is that you can clutch on the downhill with light snow conditions and freewheel (freetrack?) along as fast as you can walk and it still tracks beautifully. 

As for the height adjustment, with the low friction skids and scraper blade I set mine to just barely touch a flat portion of the driveway and so I can just rock it slightly on the treads. That builds in some give in the uneven sections. I only raise mine at the EOD to avoid the big angle transitions at the roadway and avoid snowblowing loose rocks and such from the plow. 

Set up right, your new machine should super easy to use. Best of luck with it. 

Bob


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Thanks for the reply, I'm definitely going to switch out my skids and try the uhmw cutting edge addition.


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## SB83 (Dec 15, 2015)

If you haven't worked with UHMW before, I'll share a few things that I learned the hard way. You can use a handsaw or a table saw for rough cuts, but it's best to do your trimming with a hand plane. For countersunk holes, if you try to use a drill bit or wood countersink, it tears up the material too much. Instead, use a countersink bit designed for metal. When installing countersink bolts, don't tighten them too much as it spreads the material. Instead, use a nylon locknut and just snug them up.

For drilling holes, you can use a standard drill bit but be sure to deep punch it first. If you have to cut a lot of holes like I did with my scraper blade (I made a few spares), a leather punch bit is much more accurate and faster.

I had posted these previously, but I'll repost here so you don't have to search. For the rear skids you can shape the material by heating it and once set, drill holes and use countersink bolts and the nylon locknuts on the bottoms. For the scraper blade, cut it to exactly 2.5 inches wide and sandwich it under the metal blade, setting it all the way up and back.

These mods along with the Rabalon or similar low friction side skids will transform your machine and it's well worth the effort. Let me know how it works out!


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## Ian S (Nov 13, 2015)

drmerdp said:


> Ok, talking skid shoes... Poly shoes, does anyone use them on their track machine?
> 
> Heres what I found available. None of which Specify being UHMW


Are these the right skids for the HSS track-drive? The HSS wheel-drive has the skids mounted on the side of the auger housing, but the track-drive has them on the rear.

If I had side-mounted skids, I'd look into wheeled skids. But with the rear-mounted skids, wheels aren't an option and I'm experiencing the same difficulty as you describe - the skids keep binding on the black-top surface wherever it's uneven. This is causing either a lot more work than necessary, or a layer of snow because I have to keep the housing raised so the skids don't contact with the surface.


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## jbdesigns (Oct 21, 2016)

IMO, if using side skids, I'm not believing there would be much difference between the steel skids I have vs poly skids. Realize the skid is ridding on snow or ice between the skid and driveway surface. It is lubricated with ice and water. There shouldn't be a ton of wear. I use the steel because I know they will hold up over time. Plastic I think will wear a bit faster and require frequent adjustments. Plus it's harder to keep them as secure since the bolts are compressing plastic which gives some and will creep over time, maybe loosening up. My thoughts based on my experience with polymers. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SB83 (Dec 15, 2015)

All Honda track machines come standard with rear skids. The holes are there for the fronts as an accessory and most people run one or the other. My experience is that correctly adjusted, having both on works better if you have 4 low friction contact points. Wheels have their disadvantages in snow and gravel but poly works well on all surfaces. 

Poly skids won't loosen up if you use large washers.


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## 1K1MOA (Dec 20, 2016)

Thanks for the post! I am picking up my new 1332ATD this week, great to know this issue and the fix before I have ever even used it.  Greatly appreciated!


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Thanks for the advice SB83! Thats alot of useful detail. 

The only tool I dont have is a hollow steel punch. Do you recall what size punch you used? I think most scraper blades use 5/16 hardware, but the honda likely uses 8mm.

5/16 = 8mm pretty much


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## SB83 (Dec 15, 2015)

drmerdp said:


> Do you recall what size punch you used? I think most scraper blades use 5/16 hardware, but the honda likely uses 8mm.


These are 12mm and I used a 3/8 punch bit. A couple of additional tips on fabricating the scrapers; carbide tipped saw blades work best. They essentially chip away verses cut the material, so feed it with a sacrificial board on top. 

Make at least a couple so you have a hole template for the next time. You'll probably get 10 or 20 hours out of one before it starts getting banged up a bit depending on your driveway, but I can swap one out for a fresh one in about 4 minutes. Get a 12mm ratchet wrench while you're at it as it makes any scraper or skid adjustments in tight spaces really easy. 

To remove the scraper, position the augers by turning the impeller for the most clearance, then tip it out and off. Also, a dab of paint on the scraper attachment bolts makes it easy to get your holes positioned exactly right without measuring. With the blade installed (up and back), set the auger height so that the poly blade just touches a smooth even surface, then adjust all 4 skids to just touch the ground. In use, I set the auger height up just a bit more so that almost all of the machines weight is on the tracks.


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## GMK (Dec 19, 2016)

I'm surprised that a company doesn't sell these. Thanks for the explanation.


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