# Very Old Ariens Snowblower - 10ML60D



## Gator (Feb 11, 2013)

I'm trying to fix a very old Ariens Snowblower, model 10ML60D. This model utilizes wheel hubs with an internal drive gear. You can see a schematic for the particulars here.

I actually need the friction spring for both wheels, but the parts are no longer available.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to engage the drive wheels again? At this point it's random whether the wheels engage or not.

I'm thinking of pinning the hubs to the axles. Any other ideas?

Thanks.


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## minitrk (Dec 26, 2012)

looks like it would be #13 OR #5?? if so that spring is still available according to that site.


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

Gator said:


> I'm trying to fix a very old Ariens Snowblower, model 10ML60D. This model utilizes wheel hubs with an internal drive gear. You can see a schematic for the particulars here.
> 
> I actually need the friction spring for both wheels, but the parts are no longer available.
> 
> ...


====================================================

From the diagram, it appears that the sprocket on part 39 is driven by a chain. The little gear on part 39, than drives part 43, which is keyed to the center of the axle. The wheel hubs (part 73), are tied to the axle by parts 118. Are the part 118 keys missing??? Not sure what you mean by friction springs. Part #13, looks like the tension spring, for the belt tension pulley bracket.

John


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

Waterlooboy2hp said:


> ====================================================
> 
> From the diagram, it appears that the sprocket on part 39 is driven by a chain. The little gear on part 39, than drives part 43, which is keyed to the center of the axle. The wheel hubs (part 73), are tied to the axle by parts 118. Are the part 118 keys missing??? Not sure what you mean by friction springs. Part #13, looks like the tension spring, for the belt tension pulley bracket.
> 
> John


===============================

Just looked over the diagram again. Looks like 2 drive systems. Yours does not used part #73. I missed the referance to part #5. It seems, that if you pinned your hubs to the axle, that it would work like the drive sustem, that uses part #73, which keys the wheels directly to the axle. -- John


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

*Ariens 10ML60D Wheel Issue*

I need some help and advise on my new to me Ariens 10ML60D blower. This unit has a bad Ratchet Wheel set-up on the right hand side. I'm not worried about that, BUT, the wheel just sits on the shaft, and easily slides off. There is a small indent around the whole shaft that (I wonder) if some type of clip would fit to hold the wheel onto the shaft. 

Another option is to tap weld the wheel onto the shaft....since I don't know how to do that, that option is difficult. 

Lastly, another possible option is to drill a hole through the wheel and shaft for a Quick Release Pin. My question for the forum....can I actually drill a hole through the shaft and wheel? I don't have a drill press..... 



Gator said:


> I'm trying to fix a very old Ariens Snowblower, model 10ML60D. This model utilizes wheel hubs with an internal drive gear. You can see a schematic for the particulars here.
> 
> I actually need the friction spring for both wheels, but the parts are no longer available.
> 
> ...


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Yes you can drill a hole through a shaft but I'd try to find a friend with a drill press as it's very difficult to drill a round bar through the center and keep it centered and straight by hand. I'm one for two as I needed to make a new drive axle for one of mine.

The wheel would present the same challenge. It's hard to get started and you need to make sure the holes are aligned with the shaft. Easier said than done especially when the hubs of the wheel are sometimes under the rim and you can't come straight down.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

yes you can grind and pin the hubs to the axles, that's how the old Gilsons were. Yes, you can drill it yourself, with a hand drill, but very carefully, and I'd slightly grind a flat on the side of the axle first, and centerpunch it, and use a sharpened or new drill bit, then drill it.  I've done a few things like that before and if you are careful you can do it

a drill press or course is the best route


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

If you have a centerdrill (a very short drill, meant for starting holes), I'd start with that. If you have a Dremel, you might even be able to grind a small detent (beyond simply making a small flat, which would be the next approach), to help keep the drill centered when you start. 

You're talking about the wheel. But is there also a hub with a sleeve? My Ariens (different vintage) have an axle with a big flange (hub) that the wheel bolts into, and that also has a tubular axle that slips over an inner shaft. My units have a differential, hence the two items, one inside the other. 

If you have a tubular axle that slips over an internal shaft, and those are the items you're trying to pin/lock together, you might consider drilling them both at the same time (though the outer piece, straight into the inner one). That way you know the holes will line up.


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

You could use a snap ring, or maybe an axle cap. One requires the groove around the axle to lock into, the other doesn't. MH


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Thanks for all the wise and experienced comments! Fortunately the previous owner placed bolts through the wheel hub, and those two bolts catch on the finger, the wheel catches and is held solid, giving me drive on both sides. Essentially, the wheel is locked like it is pinned. So, as long as the wheel slides all the way on, and the bolts engage the finger, all I've got to do is punch a hole through the shaft close to the hub sleeve and slide a Quick Release Pin or Clevis Pin through the hole. That will make it work. 

RedOctobyr -- sounds like we have the same set-up. Thank you for putting into words my actual wheel unit. And you're right up the road. 

So, off to the garage to begin the process!


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Hmmm. When I think about this, simplicity is the easier way, so here's my question to our group. I do have a groove around the axle that implies a snap ring may have been part of the original design. I understand that pinning the wheel will work to hold the wheel on....based upon the torque and movement of the machine, do you think a snap ring would be adequate to hold the wheel on?


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## rhenning (Sep 19, 2013)

Snap rings hold the front and sometimes the rear wheels of some of my garden tractors without a problem. Roger


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Thanks rhenning. Certainly worth the effort and minimal cost to try the snap ring concept. A whole lot easier than drilling a hole through the axle shaft!

I'll let everyone know how that works. 



rhenning said:


> Snap rings hold the front and sometimes the rear wheels of some of my garden tractors without a problem. Roger


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Any chance it's the same part they are discussing in this thread ?
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/snowblower-repairs-maintenance-forum/6778-pawl-spring.html


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Spent time today at Boston Lawnmower just down the road. They even called Ariens Customer Support and looked at schematics...could not find the part I needed, yet had most of the parts I needed, including a belt, spark plug and boot for the plug. Now all I've got to do is break it in half tomorrow and replace the belt, and then give it a trial on some of the snow in my yard! 

As long as I can get both wheels driving, I'm happy, as my plan has always been to offer it to one of my office colleagues for whatever I've got in it, which is significantly less than $100.


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