# 24" Auger head unit swap between mid-90s machines?



## RedRiverRambler (12 mo ago)

I have a pair of MTD blowers from the mid-90s, one a 5/24 and the other an 8/24. I also have a bit newer (2000-2010 era?) 5/24 that I bought used, but it's not running right now.

Both of the mid-90s blowers have been workhorses and still run pretty good. Yes, I gambled recently with the 8/24 and used standard bolts instead of shear bolts in the auger.....and suspect now, after wedging a dog bone in the auger, that I may have damaged something in the auger gear box. Bone is removed, but the whole assembly seems locked up. There could be many solutions, but the one I was entertaining with it being mid-winter is to detach the auger unit from the powertrain of the 8/24 and swap it with that from the 5/24. The question being, is the MTD 24" auger unit from the mid-90s universal within the MTD brand? Would the bolt spacings and pulley distances allow for this swap to occur successfully? Thanks in advance for your help.....


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Welcome aboard, glad to have you at SBF.

I haven't a clue as to your question but someone no doubt will, please standby.


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

I’d start with getting the model numbers off both units 





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Do they both have the 6-bolt bucket (3 per side)? If so, they should interchange. You can even swap over the dual auger belt pulley setup from your 824 bucket if needed.

I removed a bucket from an MTD 524 and installed it on an 8526 back end about a year ago:

New project: a basket case Yard Machines Gold 8.5...


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Do they have the same bolt up pattern, and do they look like they will match up?

If they do, then you have nothing to lose than about 30 minutes and undoing a few bolts to find out.

Using anything but a shear pin/bolt is certainly asking for issues, as you have found out. You always want spare shear pins/bolts on hand, as well as a spare belt(s).


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## RedRiverRambler (12 mo ago)

Thanks for all responses. Yes, I found and cross-checked the model numbers of the 8/24 and the 5/24 that I wish to use for the swaps. Both date back to the mid-90s, both have the same 3-bolt pattern, and now that I have a bit more time will take a few more measurements before splitting them apart. This past fall I had considered it wiser to return to using shear bolts in the auger pin holes. That bag of shear bolts still hangs on the wall in the garage as I neglected to follow-through with the "best laid plans" 🤨..... much to my regret now. I will update hopefully with photos and results. Thanks!


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## RedRiverRambler (12 mo ago)

Well, this project has taken a new turn. Quick backstory: The 5 hp blower that I wanted to use as the donor of the auger unit was purchased used and after a little maintenence, still never ran well. Later in 2021 I purchased a new, non-adjustable carb kit from Amazon.com and installed it in late Fall, but it still ran poorly at best so I shelved it until I could look at it further. Before making the decision noted above to unbolt the auger unit from this 5 hp unit, I opted to look into the carb/engine performance one more time. With some tweaking of the governor adjustment set screw, I was able to get it to run quite well....with one exception: It seems underpowered, tackling only 3-4 inch deep light snow on the lowest transmission gear, but not much above that. I have my reasons to suspect one of the cylinder valves not sealing properly, but if there is something else that others may suggest (timing?...some other adjustment?), I'd like to tray that before removing the cylinder head, which I likely would not do until spring or summer. (Clearly, this last option would allow me to use the auger unit now and re-attach it later if I fix the engine problem.) Is there some other 'last ditch' fix for valve seating that I could try that would not involve cylinder head removal? Thanks for all suggestions!
Edited to add photo of the carb and governor linkage.


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## Fordiesel69 (12 mo ago)

No tricks, the valve lash clearance is too little. You need to be between .004 - .006, and frankly I grind the stem of intake valve on the .006 side of the spec, and I invent my own clearance on the exhaust as .010 so it has room to settle in some. Especially the 5HP engine has this problem. The other sizes do too but the 5HP is very common,.


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## RedRiverRambler (12 mo ago)

Much thanks for this additional information, Fordiesel69. This will help me decide the relative priorities of trying to fix the current newer blower as is, or us it for parts or just swap the engine on it. Thanks!


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