# Self-tapping screws or bolts for impeller kit?



## BillyM (Jun 17, 2015)

I saw a youtube vid where the guy used self tapping screws to attach the rubber for his impeller kit. he said they hold and last longer than the rubber.
Are screws really up to the job for this? Seems like they would work themselves loose after a bit...


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I would use nuts and bolts. Also, not all impellers are the same thickness. Some you could probably tap the holes and bolt them in. Others are more like tin foil.


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## caddydaddy (Dec 10, 2014)

I'd also use nuts and bolts. Even on the thickest impeller, there's not that much metal to thread into.


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## tinter (Apr 20, 2014)

I would be using nylock nuts and thread locker, but then again I'm all about overkill. ☺


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Nuts and bolts with locktite


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

I use nylock nuts, after I drilled my ariens looking at it I thought I could prob tap the impeller and use loctite but being lazy, I use bolts, I'd worry the self tappers would workout and fly away


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Stainless steel bolts & nuts.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

agree with above- something else to keep in mind.. they may well last longer than rubber but if/when you need to change rubber, if the screws are rusted in they will snap off much easier than a bolt. I've had that happen on many things in the past then you'll be tearing impeller out to drill the screw out. Also if the screw did come loose.. That would be the one that takes the neighbors Mercedes window out. All my impellers installed always used the stainless bolts w/lock nuts


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

jtclays said:


> Old Toro's may be the same way, just don't like them at all, the black parts all rust. I think Toro does it on purpose.


Us Toro owners call that "patina" jt. Older people get gray hair, older Toro snow blowers get patina. :icon_whistling:


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

old toros have to be predrilled. i have three toros a 521 824 and 726 and they are all amazing blowers. the blacks still there on all of them but then again they are all garage kept. the red powdercoat they used is amazingly tough but i do think the black used on the control panel is **** poor, i have seen a lot of rusty ones


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Grunt, I love the "patina" call, very funny ( I have the gray hair too). Like 43128 says, I guess it's how you take care of them that matters.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Geno said:


> agree with above- something else to keep in mind.. they may well last longer than rubber but if/when you need to change rubber, if the screws are rusted in they will snap off much easier than a bolt. I've had that happen on many things in the past then you'll be tearing impeller out to drill the screw out. Also if the screw did come loose.. That would be the one that takes the neighbors Mercedes window out. All my impellers installed always used the stainless bolts w/lock nuts



Would consider useing button head stainless, with the head on the "throw" side. Like these. 
I've seen some installs with the rubber installed on the throw side, seems like it would impead the flow. Should be mounted on the back side.

stainless button head bolts | eBay


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## DaHen (Feb 15, 2015)

Installed the impeller kit in my John Deere at the end of last season. Looking forward to trying it out. 

Used bolts and nuts here as well.


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

Stainless nuts & bolts + washers with Red Loctite. Add a strip of worn out single stage rubber and you're set.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

jermar, I would have the rubber on the back side. You have it on the throw side. Seams to me the rubber is impeading the flow.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

scrappy said:


> Would consider useing button head stainless, with the head on the "throw" side. Like these.
> I've seen some installs with the rubber installed on the throw side, seems like it would impead the flow. Should be mounted on the back side.
> 
> stainless button head bolts | eBay


interesting thought, im in the early stages of the mod, using light truck tire side wall and 3/4 inch x 1/8 inch aluminum to sandwich the rubber to the impeller. i plan to do it on the leading side of the impeller ?


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

nwcove said:


> interesting thought, im in the early stages of the mod, using light truck tire side wall and 3/4 inch x 1/8 inch aluminum to sandwich the rubber to the impeller. i plan to do it on the leading side of the impeller ?


If there is enough space behind the leading edge, would be better.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

My 2 were put on the top. They do stick up a bit and look odd, but no issues with flow rate.


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

When I first did this I originally thought they should be on the back of the impeller blade, for the same reason scrappy says, but fr what ever reason I went with the front or leading or throwing side. I think I was worried the rubber would fold over and jam machine? it worked well but now I'm wondering why I did it that way, prob google image, that's how I do everything! I still have two opposing blades empty on my ariens maybe I'll put it on the leading edge and see what happens.
Crazy snowblower question. What side does everyone add there impeller kits to?
Rob


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The advantage of doing the top is then there is a solid backing under it.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

in my 'less than professional' opinion you do stand a slight more chace to wedge a small rock/gravel between the edge of the impeller and the housing if that edge is still exposed on topside. by putting rubber on top the edge of impeller is not there and less chance of wedging one in. I've had plenty of old ariens that had the rib lines dented in them from carrying a stone around.


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## BillyM (Jun 17, 2015)

Over or under?
Sounds like the old toilet paper roll question...


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

By putting the rubber on the throw side, the stress upon the rubber is across the impeller blade. On the back mounting, the stress is on the bolts. Far less area & might pull away with time. In this pic, the blade is moving up.


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## BillyM (Jun 17, 2015)

jermar said:


> By putting the rubber on the throw side, the stress upon the rubber is across the impeller blade. On the back mounting, the stress is on the bolts. Far less area & might pull away with time. In this pic, the blade is moving up.


Dude! What are you throwing? Asphalt? haha


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## conwaylake (Feb 6, 2014)

Jermar, 

What do you coat your impeller with? 
Any special treatment of the metal? 

Apologies for going off topic


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

jermar said:


> By putting the rubber on the throw side, the stress upon the rubber is across the impeller blade. On the back mounting, the stress is on the bolts. Far less area & might pull away with time. In this pic, the blade is moving up.


Agreed. On both of my snowblowers I did it this way with the rubber on top or the throw side. I used stainless steel nylock nuts and bolts with stainless steel fender washers on both of them. For the rubber I used baler belt bought at fleet farm.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I installed my belting on the throw side. Just a small piece of metal and bolts/poly lock nuts. I very fortunate that stones are not a concern. Everything I have to clean snow from is paved. Our street has a huge tree lawn running up the middle and the plow truck plow into the tree lawn so there are no EOD problems, or stones/debris hauled in from anywhere. I'm very happy with our setup.


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

Conway- My impeller is painted with POR 15. I use cheap silicone tire shine & spray before each use.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I'm still waiting to try out my version. They are full size (covers full impeller blade). They should be slippery with no ridge sticking up to hang up snow. They are not flexible however. Slightly slotted holes for best fit.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/general-snowblower-discussion/6370-hdpe-impeller-seals.html


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