# MTB 3/24 engine block question



## Lyndmc (May 1, 2021)

I recently acquired a second generation 3/21 that appears to be in great shape. I got it from a neighbor who said it didn’t run. Turns out the carb was bad... he’s not mechanical at all.

it starts and runs great, I bought and i stalled new paddles, a new carb, a new primer, new fuel lines, and a new scraper. I noticed something very odd on the motor and I think it’s always been this way. I’m sure the previous owner never touched it. It looks like a gap in the lower crankcase, but if it were a leak, I’d think it wouldn’t run like it does.

Can anyone comment on this? Is this a factory defect, normal, or an issue? the bolt heads don’t look like they’ve been wrenched on until I did today and they are tight.


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## evh (Jun 22, 2015)

I have taken apart many of those engines. In my experience, that is normal.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Hey, Your first post, Thank you for joining us, Please come back! This is a great site, lot of smart people on here, and some are smart a...., it is a good helpful site.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it, ignore it. As you said, it's not leaking. I've seen this before also on other engines, the gasket may have moved inward during installation, it may have been sticking out and broken off.

Check how to adjust your skid shoes using 3 paint sticks, and we all on here like to use adjustable carburetors.


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## Lyndmc (May 1, 2021)

I will surely check the post on adjusting the scraper, I need to do that today. The body was a bit bent in the middle like the previous owner had hit something and the steel was beginning to wear in the center. I’ve got it straightened out do the scraper sits flat again. I’ve got the new paddles mostly on but I’m going to go out today and get new hardware. I’m afraid the screw heads will go bad the next time I replace the paddles.

This machine is to replace a Toro S200 that I’ve been babysitting every year. It’s a poor design and is just plain worn out anyway. Strong motor by the rest of it like body parts and auger bearings are about done. I’m so tired of the carb draining itself on my garage floor every time I’m done with it. But hey, it’s been worth it’s free price 10 years ago. I shouldn’t have the leak problem with this one because of the type of carb, but I added a filter and petcock just in case.


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## Lyndmc (May 1, 2021)

Update.... so today I finished straightening the bottom of the body and I installed my new scraper. I tried the paint stirrer adjustment suggestion but it doesn’t work for me. With my scraper fully retracted, I still can’t fit a paint stick under it. I’m wondering if that only works for a larger model that may have the 2 sliders.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Move the snowblower to flat concrete such as your garage. You lift back on the machine raising the front, or raise the front with your hand, put 3 paint sticks spread apart under the scraper bar, 1 on each end, 1 in the middle. Loosen the nuts on both skid shoes, push the skid shoes with your hand to the pavement, holding it there, tighten the nuts, do the same on the other side. You have now adjusted the skid shoes to the scraper blade raising the scraper bar up.


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## Lyndmc (May 1, 2021)

I was on my flat concrete garage floor. I don’t seem to have skid shoes, it looks like it glides on the sheetnetal body. I looked at the parts breakout and I didn’t see them there either. My machine is an MTD 316-150-000, a 3/21.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I'm sorry, I didn't realize it was a 2 cycle. 2 cycles do not have skid shoes.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Single stage machine? You mention paddles so probably.


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