# Chute Lining - Funtionality Advice



## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

So I'm starting to plan to line the chute with uhmw material.....

For praticality purposes, is the primary portion of the chute good enough. Or do the chute deflector as well.

For those that lined your chute, did you just apply it , irrelvant of following what curve, indents, etc profile of the chute.

And or, assuming you're thinking, well - the manufacturer must have some computer aided design for this curve, this indent, etc to maximize snow moving through it, etc - and one should use heat, etc, any neccessary means than when lining the chute, the entire profile (shape) of the it is replicated on whatever material you use to line it .


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I 'want" to believe there is science involved in the chute design, but perhaps they are just looking for something that guides some frozen precipitation and looks cool.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

In my limited playing around with heating and forming plastic, it's much easier to stretch it over and around curves then it is to shrink it inside of curves and remove the puckering from the attempt at shrinking. I'm not sure I'm making any sense.
I'm anxious to see how yours turn out.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Have no experience with lining a chute, but imho once the liner gets scratched up wont it be nothing more than a paint protector?


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

nwcove said:


> Have no experience with lining a chute, but imho once the liner gets scratched up wont it be nothing more than a paint protector?


you may be right.I'd like to hear from one of those guys that lined theirs with a crazy carpet sled a few years ago.
Example. Sorry link is from brand x forum A quick search didn't find anyone from here that included photos.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

The surface tension should be considerably less with the liner though....
Which isn't that the whole purpose - so less snow sticking on the chute.

Note, my chute is the Husq. 300 series, so it also has the addeded rubber chute extension on the front of the deflector.

For arguments sake. is the ~velocity~ of lining mainly for the vertical portion of the chute.

No extra added benefits or not to line the deflector ?


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Are you thinking 1/8" thickness?


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

I don't know about the plastic liners.. but my stainless one is showing no wear yet (2 years). As far as helping performance I'm sure some, but ever so little is my guess. By time it gets up at that angle and the speed involved their isn't much drag affect. Definatly is paint protrector in the area though. The deflector could play a factor if it is set in a substantial angle from the rest of the chute but most are close to same angle in most cases. that can change according to situation of course. If the deflector is set at a very noticeable degree from the chute then your most likely putting snow in a particular area and distance isn't the issue then. My opinions on this if it even makes any sense.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

Whaddy say. Glue it or don't install it.

Ideal material thickness would have been 1/16"
This is 1/8"
Was not able to match the OE contour of the chute.
OE contour more of of a taper triangle with the widest part widening towards the deflector.

Maybe there is some ~science~ to the OE shape.
Due to the thick UHMW material, it's pretty much a straight round profile.

Yay or nay. I'm on the fence.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

I like what you've done so far. However the way I would be thinking of installing it is to drill out the rivets at the top of the chute and where the rubber side piece is and reattach with the liner held on that way. You could also attach via the unused hole on the side below where the deflector cable attaches and also the point where the deflector cable attaches. Using those attachment points would you still need glue, or would the mechanical attachment points suffice?


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

If you look at the Yamaha liner it is held mainly by brackets that are inside the chute and the liner slides into those. What about brackets on both sides riveted on and the liner slides into those?


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

I was just composing another reply.

Paging Geno - I can't find your past thread with the pics/details on the SS liner. I recall reading it at least 2-3X of yesteryears. Did you seal yours.

Zavie - I purposely stayed under the hole on the top deflector. I can see how water can wick down and into that hole . I don't want to make any extra holes. Those would be weak points on corrosion....afterall, the steel chute is nice and powdercoated already

You probably have the same chute as me.
I considered going a smigen lower but there is a weep hole . I presume to let condensate out...so it does not freeze. 

Without having snow, I have no idea how the rubber on the bottom works. Hence, stayed clear of that area altogether, as I did not want to mess with a unkown

I'm thinking about how I would seal the edges. I would affix the liner via plastic epoxy weld.
Sealing the edges IMO would be important. I don't want moisture hanging out between the sandwich

Maybe there should be a round 2 edit on this liner.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

I hear ya about the holes. That's why I have not put any liner in mine. I used about 5 coats of Turtle ICE brand wax. My chute came through last winter unscathed.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

FWIW - there is a 2nd option...PPF. This I know I can do 100% coverage everywhere I want. But it's not as ~slick~ as UHMW.

I had to give the UHMW a try just to see how it would look. I'm 50/50 on it. IMO the material is too thick and looks more like a add-on. I'm more a ~stealth~ OE type of guy....


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

What about 3M Paint Defender Film. Here is a thread I started last December:http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/general-snowblower-discussion/30937-snowblower-paint-protection-ultimate.html


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

*I'm down but not gone..*

mobiledynamics- I don't know where it is on specifics but pic is on 'post pic's of your snowblowers' Mich68kj posted a couple on thumbnails on page 6 for me. one shows the liner. I recall I glued my on with some quality construction adheasive that was good for cold temps. I also covered the entire surface right out to the edges to eliminate air space behind it. I remember it was a bugger but use a putty knife and use ample amount- then wipe off around edges with mineral spirits. My chute was sanded some before this- I outlined the area with the liner and sanded just to marks and only to take shine away before adhering.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

Spray on is nowhere in MIL thickness durable as film itself
IMO Suntek is the best. 
Xpel Ultimate has great marketing....

I can go on and and but Suntek is my preferred film.

Don't let ANYONE sell you on the merits. I have it installed on almost every car below the rocker line if the body style allows. Some doors you just can't .

For OPE, I think it will work fine on any brand...

PPF is porus. Forget the marketing....I know it's pro's/cons. 
Here's a pic of what PPF looks like when removed. My PPF guy refuses to install it on White Cars for this very reason...


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

UHMW project is dead. I'm going the PPF route.

I didn't really have my thinking cap on, until I templated the chute, cut it out on the UHMW, heat soaked the product, formed it, and then really put alot of thought into a sound way of attaching it.

It boiled down to the simple fact that there was too much risk on water sitting between the UHMW and the chute, which would could present possible rust issues without me knowing. From all the readings I read, nothing really will stick to UHMW and even if I got a VHB tape to bond to the chute, it would not mean the edge would be 100% sealed in which I would walk away from the install knowing that no snow/condensate would be behind the material.

I suppose that is why even Yamaha, has side slots that hold their liner in place, but also makes it ~removable~ for easy maintenance/inspection.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

We are in agreement. However I'm still thinking about using only the existing holes, including if you count the riveted holes to fab up some slots, (brackets) that would allow the UHWM to be removed. I'm not there yet but who knows, the story continues....


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

The current holes won't really work as a out of the box solution bearing the shape of the UHMW. The chute is not one round curve. It's semi tapered here and there and would next to impossible to slide it out horizontally.

IF I decided to make a vertical bracket, I would probably redo the liner and make it much smaller in coverage (to alleviate the tapered profile) and have more of a footprint of the back of the chute. Still would entail some shape change of the OE profile of the chute, as I would need to make it come a bit off from the back of it (I'm @work and just going off memory off the OE shape of the chute profile).

But then that involves me drilling the chute, and then touching up the raw steel, etc, etc. Possibly doable but probably with ALOT more time vested into that I'm looking to dedicate now. I did mention I'm a stealth type of guy. Prefer it to not look aftermarket... Fab brackets would need to get to the pcoater and before then, I would probably want him to spray out some samples so I could see the color... It's getting colder and I'm still not finished working off my spring-to-do honeylist ;-)

And as luck has it *I must have tore up the garage a bit* and spent like 1 1/2 hrs looking everywhere for my PPF installation tools and cannot fogg1n find it !


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

I bought some slippery plastic for my lawnmower and maybe the snowblower. It turns out that the plastic was too hard and the self stick on was not that sticky.. so I gave up. The hybrid Arians chute on my Sears/Murray will be fine. I spray silicone on it at least once a year, and I am good.
Sid


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

I used 1/32” uhmw. It came with an adhesive backing...peel and stick.

It was a pain to install, and required a good heat gun to soften the material. The catch is, too much heat also deteriorated the adhesive. 

All in all, it worked out well and I’m happy with the results. It has held up with little to no wear after two years of use. ...Lots of pebbles in my EOD, plus I do a large swath of curb for my mailbox and garbage/recycling cans. 

Based on video footage, The area I lined is the major working surface of the chute. I also sealed the edges of the liner with clear RTV. 

I did not line the deflector but have thought about it. I still have material left over. The deflectors are flat and easy to line.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

drmerdp


Awesome Vette. Plus knock-offs. What year, engine, and miles ? Love either Red or the Marina Blue from '76 or so.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

It’s been a while, don’t remember the year but it has a 327. The car is prestine. 

It’s quite interesting using a lead mallet to remove and install wheels on a car.


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