# Oil change question



## allens209 (Jan 28, 2019)

I got a new HSS928ATD in Feb but we did not get that much snow since. It has 3 to 4 hours on it. I am wondering if I should change the oil or run it another season. I wonder if it came with break in oil.


----------



## adegrno (Jul 6, 2017)

Never hurts to change oil I guess. Especially on new machines. But that is just mho.

Sent fra min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

No longer is there something called break in oil. You want to run regular oil for a few hours so the engine wears in properly, metal filings will run off and collect, then change using synthetic oil. IMO, 5-10 hours of run time, if someone replies with 3-4 hours of run time then change it, that's their opinion and they may be right and I may be wrong.


----------



## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Check the manual to see what the specify for oil and how often its needs to be changed. See if your manual specifies if you can used synthetic later on when the engine is broken in.

If you decide to change the oil, its probably best to stick with conventional oil for at least the next oil change. 

During the first 5-20 hours of an engine' life, lots of parts have to get used to moving with other parts and its usually recommended to used conventional oil during that time.


----------



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

if I paid that much money for a new Honda you can bet the house I would follow the manufacturers' recommendations.

contact your dealer and ask.


----------



## Miles (Sep 16, 2016)

I changed my oil after the first season with about 5-10 hours on it. It's a small task to do or to have someone do it for you. I think it will contribute to the longevity of the engine.


----------



## allens209 (Jan 28, 2019)

I always change oil myself. I Usually use Mobil one but I’ll use Dino oil this time.


----------



## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

Honda runs the engine at the factory before packaging(states in manual)......... so they might break it in before you get it??? Since they do not mention a break in period I am assuming that....Please confirm that(break in)!!! I know there are Honda guys on here some who have worked for Honda(at least in the past) who can confirm or deny that hopefully. I can only confirm they run it at the factory before packaging it. Not the break in part.



Per your manual I believe it states check it every use up until first twenty hours and then change it... Also the engine manual(GX270) says the same(first twenty hours)! But I am with most prior to this post....(ha-ha rhymed)...it does not hurt it you have run it a few hours with Conventional oil in first 5 to 10 hours of use to change it again and then use conventional one more time to make sure rings are set proper. Then go Synthetic or what your manual states after the Twenty hours.



Per Manual (HSS928ATD): SAE 5W-30 (1.16qt.US) is recommended for general use.. Use 4stroke motor oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API service classification SJ or later(or equivalent). Always check the API service label on the oil container to be sure it includes the letters SJ or later(or equivalent).


----------



## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I kept the original oil in my HSS1332ATD until 12 hours. The engine is still breaking in until that point. I then changed it with Penzoil 5W30. At the end of this year, will likely switch to synthetic at about 25 hours.


----------



## allens209 (Jan 28, 2019)

tabora said:


> I kept the original oil in my HSS1332ATD until 12 hours. The engine is still breaking in until that point. I then changed it with Penzoil 5W30. At the end of this year, will likely switch to synthetic at about 25 hours.


Did you do that 12 hours in one season? I assume so. I was hoping for more snow but spring has really sprung quickly here.


----------



## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

allens209 said:


> Did you do that 12 hours in one season? I assume so. I was hoping for more snow but spring has really sprung quickly here.


Nope. Only used it twice the first season (purchased at end of February) - about 2.8 hours total. Kept that oil in until end of next season, 12 hours total.


----------



## allens209 (Jan 28, 2019)

I think I'll do the same. Thanks.


----------



## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

I called Honda and a customer service rep told me engineering recommends to change after the first 5 hours, then move on to every 20 (like the manual states). 

I decided to use Honda branded 5W30 until my warranty was up and then I switched to Mobil1. That was at 80 hours. I'm at 97 hours now after 3 winters. All good so far.


----------



## allens209 (Jan 28, 2019)

jrom said:


> I called Honda and a customer service rep told me engineering recommends to change after the first 5 hours, then move on to every 20 (like the manual states).


 My manual states first change at 20 hours or 1 month, then 100 hours or yearly. The note (4) states more often for rugged service.


I suspect whether I change it at 3 hours or wait until next season, probably 10-12 hours, it won't really make a difference.


----------



## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

JLawrence08648 said:


> No longer is there something called break in oil. You want to run regular oil for a few hours so the engine wears in properly, metal filings will run off and collect, then change using synthetic oil. IMO, 5-10 hours of run time, if someone replies with 3-4 hours of run time then change it, that's their opinion and they may be right and I may be wrong.


Good plan JLawrence. The Honda engines are run in at the factory and then the oil is drained. The dealership puts Honda power equipment oil in it when they are set up and sold. Conventional oil made for power equipment. I use the Amsoil brand synthetic oil in everything, much longer lasting and takes much more severe abuse. On the other hand, a lot of people change oil yearly because of acid buildup in it. Amsoil withstands acid buildup much better also.


----------



## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

SimplicitySolid22 said:


> Honda runs the engine at the factory before packaging(states in manual)......... so they might break it in before you get it??? Since they do not mention a break in period I am assuming that....Please confirm that(break in)!!! I know there are Honda guys on here some who have worked for Honda(at least in the past) who can confirm or deny that hopefully. I can only confirm they run it at the factory before packaging it. Not the break in part.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes they do run them in at the factory. The GX series engines are commercial grade engines built to last a long time. I know in the past Honda used to recommend oil changes at 50 engine hours without a filter and 100 hours with the filter, and some said 100 hours without the filter. 200 hours with a filter. 
The commercial people run their engines much longer than the regular homeowner.
You can actually start out with synthetic oil and do your regular changes, it wont hurt it, just cost a little more money because of the higher price of the oil, that's all.
Best bet, do as the owners manual states to be safe if you are not sure.


----------



## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

I agree with you, and my manual states the same thing . I should have added that when the Honda rep told me that info, it was after I was seeking engine break-in advice for a GX200 attached to a new pressure washer that was not going to be used until spring and I wanted to ensure a very good start for its duty cycle. 

I also told him that I already used the "after the first 5 hour break-in" scenario with my GX390 (3 years old), my GX240 (28 yrs old) and my brothers GX340 (11 yrs old) and we've had very good luck so far.



allens209 said:


> My manual states first change at 20 hours or 1 month, then 100 hours or yearly. The note (4) states more often for rugged service.
> 
> 
> I suspect whether I change it at 3 hours or wait until next season, probably 10-12 hours, it won't really make a difference.


----------



## AclockworkBlue (Nov 26, 2018)

I just changed my oil in my HSS724ATD today. It only has a couple of hours on it, but I change my oil in all my machines every year. It can't hurt to have some fresh clean oil flowing through it. Just my two cents!


----------



## Fat City (Feb 11, 2017)

I'd change before summer storage . I like Castrol 10 - 30 for OHV and Straight Castrol 30 for Flat Head, splash lube engines . Caution ... Do not use multi weight in a splash lube engine, unless OK by dealer . Multi weight oil requires oil pressure to obtain artificial high viscosity [ 30 wt ] Stays 10 wt in a splash lube engine . Also, re-torque head bolts .


----------



## melson (Feb 9, 2015)

It takes longer than you'd think to put 20 hrs on a blower. For example, a 'hard' winter for me would see about 6 hours total. This year I put 3.1 hours, which includes blowing the walks and drives for two neighbors. OTOH, the cost of a qt of oil is pretty dang minor compared to your investment.
Look at it this way: If you change it now you're covered in every respect. If you change it for a quality synthetic you're really covered; the relatively hard life these types of power equipment endure in their lives, synthetic has way better specs.
And don't believe any comments you may have heard surrounding the myth about 'don't use synthetic until engine is broken in'.


----------



## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

AclockworkBlue said:


> I just changed my oil in my HSS724ATD today. It only has a couple of hours on it, but I change my oil in all my machines every year. It can't hurt to have some fresh clean oil flowing through it. Just my two cents!


Actually, "fresh clean oil" too soon can do a lifetime of damage. That dirty oil with metal particles in it helps everything fit together before glazing can set in; it's all part of the break-in process. Here's a great article on the subject: New Engine Break-in Procedure


----------



## IDEngineer (Oct 16, 2018)

No matter how few hours it's been run, nothing good comes from leaving old oil (and whatever particulates, condensation, etc. have collected in it!) sitting in the engine for 6-9 months. Oil is (relatively) cheap - spend a few dollars and treat the engine properly. It's the cheapest engine insurance you'll ever buy.


----------



## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

IDEngineer said:


> No matter how few hours it's been run, nothing good comes from leaving old oil (and whatever particulates, condensation, etc. have collected in it!) sitting in the engine for 6-9 months. Oil is (relatively) cheap - spend a few dollars and treat the engine properly. It's the cheapest engine insurance you'll ever buy.


Again, it's NOT about the cost; it's about letting the engine parts come together. If I were really concerned, I'd just run the engine at varying speeds to get the hours up to 10 in season one before changing the oil (snow or no snow), but 55 years of breaking in engines later it's never been an issue to leave the initial oil in until 10-12 hours of run time. It HAS been an issue the one time I decided to change it early and it required a tear-down and re-honing the cylinder walls to fix it. It looked like a fog machine before I remedied it. (Kawasaki generator engine.)


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

tabora said:


> Actually, "fresh clean oil" too soon can do a lifetime of damage. That dirty oil with metal particles in it helps everything fit together before glazing can set in; it's all part of the break-in process. Here's a great article on the subject: New Engine Break-in Procedure


That's interesting, I hadn't heard that. 

I didn't get to read the article thoroughly, but I at least didn't notice where they said to leave the particles in for a while, for a break-in benefit. Unless you mean at the end, when there was discussion of changing the oil after 4 brief break-in sessions totaling maybe an hour? 

An engine with a filter also has the benefit of at least managing the particulates. Unfiltered engines like on a lot of small OPE don't have that, there could be bigger random stuff floating in the oil. 

You have a lot more experience with these than I do, and 95% of my engines have been bought used anyhow. But I'm still more comfortable with the idea of changing it after the first few hours (still conventional).


----------



## AclockworkBlue (Nov 26, 2018)

tabora said:


> Actually, "fresh clean oil" too soon can do a lifetime of damage. That dirty oil with metal particles in it helps everything fit together before glazing can set in; it's all part of the break-in process. Here's a great article on the subject: New Engine Break-in Procedure



Interesting article. Machining and tolerances has improved since '91 when the article being referenced was written. 



I'm going my manufacturer's recommendation in my manual stating "change oil after first month or 20 hours" whichever first.


----------

