# New Craftsman won't run



## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

So my dad bought a new 24 in. Craftsman snow blower about 4 months ago. He put gas in the machine at that time. Probably just regular gas with no additives. He has started the machine monthly. That's the only use it's had due to lack of snow. The problem is that now it won't run. If I use starting fluid it will start as soon as I stop squirting it dies. I'd rather not take the carb off if I don't have too. Any ideas?


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## northframingham (Jan 6, 2018)

This "might" work. Try draining the gas in the tank... put it in your car... Buy some NEW highest octane they have at your local gas station.

Fill the tank about 1/2 way with the new high test gas. add a good amount of Sea Foam... try re-starting the blower with the starter fluid...

If you can get it started run it a good long time!

In the future always use premium High Octane has in small engines with a good stabilizer that helps combat the ethanol.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Sound advice, though there are conflicting opinions about whether high-octane might actually be a little bit worse for low-compression engines like these. 

But new gas, with stabilizer, at a minimum, is a good idea. Seafoam in the gas would also be good, if available. 

Just to ask the simple stuff, if the machine has a fuel shutoff, is that open? I just wouldn't have expected it to have the carb clog up completely in the span of a month. 

Will it continue to run if you start it with starting fluid, then turn the choke on? That should help try and draw in additional fuel. If it still won't run at all, then maybe it's getting almost nothing from the carb, vs not-quite-enough. 

You could remove just the carburetor bowl, as a middle-ground approach, not as involved as removing the entire carb. Gas should come out, draining the tank, when the bowl is removed, so have a container under it. You could then spray some carb cleaner into what's accessible. And if no gas continues flowing, when the bowl is removed, then gas is not getting to the carb for some reason. 

He should be using stabilizer in his gas, going forward, to help avoid these sorts of problems. And if there *is* a fuel shutoff, you can also close the fuel shutoff, and run the engine until it dies, to ensure that no gas just sits in the carb, degrading.


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Redoctobyr thanks for the suggestions. 
There is no fuel shutoff, when I use the starting fluid it will only run as long as I'm spraying. I tried choke on and choke off. No love. I'll try some seafoam and see what that does. And as far as the gas, ya I told him to use nonethanol for here on out.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

So it sounds like you're getting no/very-little fuel from the carb. Either the carb is very gummed up, or gas is not reaching it for some reason. 

The "non-invasive" test is to remove the fuel line from the carburetor, and see if gas comes out. Hopefully it does. This tests the fuel line & filter. 

The "somewhat-invasive" test is to remove the carb bowl, and see if gas keeps coming out. This also tests the needle valve. But it also gives an opportunity to spray components with carb cleaner. 

Non-ethanol gas is good, if available. But even then, using stabilizer is still a cheap & good idea, though it's less critical than if you were using ethanol gas.


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

It definitely seems like it's not getting gas. I just find it hard to believe it would gum up the carb in such a short amount of time. Gas still smells fresh. I'll go tinker with it tomorrow and see what happens


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## JamesReady (Mar 5, 2012)

Could be the carb is just dried out and the membranes are stuck.... My neighbour's lawn mower does this every spring.....
I've found that a good way to get her running is to put in some new gas (drain the old).... Then fill a small spray bottle like one used for a sinus spray......(squeeze bottle)

Shoot the gas into the carb while trying to start it.... once it starts, use the choke and continue spraying in gas until it finally starts to suck gas from the tank....

I've used this method for yrs.... Works most of the time..! Good luck.....

If it don't work....pull carb and clean..


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

just wondering if spraying starting fluid is a good idea. read somewhere that it burns so hot it could do some damage. other members......is that true?

i agree with taking bottom of bowl off or drain if so equipped to see if gas is filling bowl. if not , disconnect fuel line and see if that is clogged. you may be able to spray some carb cleaner up the fuel line with the straw. 

seems very unusual problem for a new machine. first thought was if the fuel was ON but you said there was no shut off valve.


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

So I removed the carb drain screw and gas did come out. I guess the carb it getting gas. Interesting thought about the starting fluid possibly being a bad idea. My original thought was to add some fresh gas with seafoam then spray the starter fluid until it decided to run on its own. Anymore thoughts on the starter fluid?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

If that screw is in the center of the carb bowl, that might also be the main jet. If you remove that, spray it with carb cleaner, and maybe run a small copper wire through all the holes, that might help it flow better. Using a single thin copper wire strand means it's less likely to damage the jet, or open the holes, vs using steel wire. But I've seen people talk about using the wire from a bread twist tie. Do it gently, regardless.


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## jrcjr (Sep 23, 2017)

Any chance the spark plug might be fouled, or defective so that there's enough spark to ignite the starting fluid, but not the fuel? Could also be a dead bug somewhere in the carburetor. I know spider nests (the small cocoons that hunting spiders make for shelter) often play havoc with propane grills.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

You may not be able to get gas without ethanol, so you may just have to learn to deal with it. I use the green STA-BIL to combat the alcohol and also the red to combat gum. I put 1 oz of each in a 1.5 gallon gas can along with 1 oz of seafoam every time I fill my can.

I would take off the gas tank and clean it out well. I would then attach the gas line to the tank and pour some fresh gas in the tank and make sure that the gas is coming out of the gas line clean. It's a good to learn how to clean your carburetor. With gas the way it is, you will have to do it sooner or later. The only downside of removing the carb to clean it is that you may need a new gasket unless you are very careful. You can make your own with a roll of gasket paper and a sharp knife, but that's one more thing on the list.

There are many good vids on cleaning your carb, just look for one with your engine. You just need a small wire, an old toothbrush, a can of carb cleaner, and a bit of patience.

I would guess if the problem was electrical (anti-theft switch, spark-plug, etc) that it wouldn't run with the starter fluid.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm headed over to the folks shortly to see if I can get this thing running. I'm gonna confirm that I have spark, clean the jet, and add some seafoam In some fresh nonethanol gas. (Readily available in my area). Any advice on taking that plastic shroud off. It seems everything is connected to the piece covering the carb. The choke, throttle, key, and primer. Also do you guys think it necessary to add fuel stabilizer to non ethanol Gas? I've never used the stuff in my blower, chainsaw etc... and haven't had an issue


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Sure, just rub it in, that you can get ethanol-free gas  

All gas goes bad, but ethanol-free stays good a lot longer. Most will probably say there's no need for stabilizer with ethanol-free, and they're probably right. But for the minor cost involved, I'd probably use it, if I had it already. It won't hurt anything, even if it's just extra insurance against problems.


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## jonnied12 (Jan 14, 2017)

You need to treat the non ethanol gas the same as the ethanol gas.
I always use Sta-Bil Marine 360 and double dose it.


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

It must still be under warranty. Don’t mess with it. Talk to where it was purchased (considering the Craftsman brand, it may not be Sears) and press them. Get verbal.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Is that sort of thing covered by warranty? I hadn't even considered that. But if you let the carb gunk up with old gas, for instance, I wouldn't have expected that to be covered under warranty.


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Co snow. I'd imagine it's still under warranty as it's only 4 mos old. However I'm not sure where it was purchased nor do I want to deal with the logistics of getting it to a shop (the folks are out of town). Anyways I think I'm gonna push this project off till tomorrow since football is on and it's beer 30. I'm still interested in advice on getting that shroud off if anyone wants to chime in


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Redoctobyr, my guess is that a fuel issue would not be covered. In my opinion though the thing is brand new with gas that is really not that old. It should run. My ariens doesn't have this issue


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I don't know anything about the specific engine or shrouds, sorry. If you post some engine details, and/or pics, maybe someone will chime in with info about what needs to be removed.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

does the engine have e-start ? if so use it....choke on.....throttle wide open.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

tttggfhnhjmjlok


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Nwcove, yes it does have estart. If I hit the button with choke on throttle on and a steady stream of starting fluid. As soon as I lay off the fluid, it dies


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Jtclays ya similar to that except the throttle or choke is on top. Don't recall. And ya your right about the 74 screws lol. I undid all screws but the thing didn't seem to want to come off. I haven't forced the issue yet


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

It really does sound like it's plunged somewhere. That plug could be gas sludge, but there are also a number of things that it could be. It is really easy to end up with debris of some kind that gets in the tank when you are filling it. There are a ridiculous number of fasteners to remove to get to the carb, but again with a Craftsman, you may as well get used to it. You can check if there is a plug in the tank or fuel line by removing the line from the carb and dropping it into a clear glass jar. The gas should flow freely and there should be no visible sediment in it. If gas is coming from the tank, there is likely a plug in the carb. Something as small as a large grain of sand can shut the whole thing down, so you just have to do through the carb carefully and make sure that everything is open. Again, watch a few vids, they will cover the process well.

On mine, I have to remove the chock knob to get the cover off. Do you have to do that as well? Also be careful of any wires that run into that plastic cover like the anti-theft or power switch. You don't want to pull something off by accident and be further up the river.

It may be under warranty and that is something to look at if you cant get things going quickly. If it was bought from Sears, it will likely be months before they can schedule a repair (one of the many reasons why they are going out of business).

*LMHmedchem*


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Lmh, I think your probably right. Does that choke knob just pop off?


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Sprocket024 said:


> Lmh, I think your probably right. Does that choke knob just pop off?


Yes - it just slides onto a shaft.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

Late to the party...

-- In winter or C.O. pump premium is generally ethanol-free.

-- Starting fluid is tough on the engine. OK for testing to see if it's a fuel problem, but don't use it for trying to actually run the engine. It's mostly ether which is a fairly slow burn and low boiling point. It was OK to use way back when, in engines cold with summer fuel in them. As soon as there's the slightest amount of heat to get carbureted fuel to flash and burn, no more starting fluid. It's too easy to stuff a lot into an engine as liquid and, then have a boom that's bigger than the piston can manage.

-- There are plenty of yeaue-tooob videos on disassembling and cleaning small engine carburetors. My habit is to do it all in a plastic dishpan so parts can't get too far away. On some interesting pieces I set up a video camera to help me remember how stuff was before the tools attacked. For things that have springs and other self-deploying scatter mechanisms, I do that part of the work in a large plastic bag, to contain the pieces. Keeps the little ball and spring that I usually lose behind the shovel from getting behind the shovel, if you know what I mean.


PM me if you get too deep into it. Have metric crescent wrenches and a good sized precision hammer, and feel sometimes qualified to do carburetor surgery in trade for a sandwich and beverage at the Sun River Brewery by you. I really just need an easy excuse to get down to the brewery...


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

dr bob said:


> -- In winter or C.O. pump premium is generally ethanol-free.
> 
> I wouldn’t bet on it (at least not in the US) - read the content label on the pump, most are 10% ethanol. I’m not sure what “C.O.” Is.
> .


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Dr Bob. Lol ya good advice. You ever make it down my way I'll buy you a beer at the brewery. Co snow, here in oregon non ethanol is readily available all year around


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## snoman110 (Mar 4, 2015)

Morning Sprocket024
If your engine is like the one that was pictured a few posts back, check the fuel tank shut off valve. If it's the same as I've experienced before, it threads into the tank and has a very fine screen for filtering. I have had one that was just plugged and wouldn't let fuel flow.
Regards
Snoman110


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

OP reports that there was fuel in the float bowl when he pulled the drain plug, so he should be getting at least a little bit of run time even if the fuel flow from the tank is severely restricted. I'll speculate that the little "stick" of assembled jets and emulsion tube has a bit of crud blocking fuel flow.

Access to that little stack of jets varies by carburetor manufacturer. In some, there's access through the drain plug hole but don't depend on that. With the carburetor removed, the bowl cover comes off, and you can get a small screwdriver onto what looks like a hollow brass screw up into the carburetor body. Carefully remove that, and you'll be able to use a little compressed air or spray carb cleaner to back-wash the crud out. The openings are precision orifices so use extra car if you decide to probe around in there with drill bits or even hard steel wire. A welder's gas torch tip cleaner tool is a handy thing for the duty, being careful not to ream the holes in the brass pieces.

If there is no fuel shut-off on the engine, I recommend adding one. I bought a bag of ten on Amazon for something like $8, and you can get singles for about $6. You are welcome to one of the seven I haven't used yet. The valve sits in the hose between the tank and the carburetor. 1/4-turn on the handle opens or closes the valve so you can keep the carburetor bowl dry between uses.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

CO Snow said:


> dr bob said:
> 
> 
> > -- In winter or C.O. pump premium is generally ethanol-free.
> ...


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

Sprocket --

Are you running yet? Morning weather shows it snowing at Lava Butte between us, and that usually means you are getting some too. So far it's been just rain here @~3900', but due to change over to snow sometime this evening. Might see an inch or two accumulating, then a change back to rain during the daytimes for the next few days.

Not enough expected here to warrant breaking out the machine yet. Shovels and scoops are waxed and ready. 

Let me know if you need hands-on help on the no-start.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Good advice. Especially for first-timers. This would be a good sticky.



dr bob said:


> ...There are plenty of yeaue-tooob videos on disassembling and cleaning small engine carburetors. My habit is to do it all in a plastic dishpan so parts can't get too far away. On some interesting pieces I set up a video camera to help me remember how stuff was before the tools attacked. For things that have springs and other self-deploying scatter mechanisms, I do that part of the work in a large plastic bag, to contain the pieces. Keeps the little ball and spring that I usually lose behind the shovel from getting behind the shovel, if you know what I mean.


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## Sprocket024 (Dec 23, 2017)

Thanks for the the advice guys. You all so smart. Lol. I had a super busy week at work so haven't dove into the problem yet. Tomorrow is the day. Dr Bob. Woohoo I gotta use my blower today


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

Sprocket024 said:


> Thanks for the the advice guys. You all so smart. Lol. I had a super busy week at work so haven't dove into the problem yet. Tomorrow is the day. Dr Bob. Woohoo I gotta use my blower today


We ended up with a few inches of heavy snow. Since it was going to warm up and melt by afternoon anyway, I cleared the driveway with a shovel. I did take the opportunity to offer some familiarization time to a new next-door neighbor. I invited him over, and pointed to the little start-procedure pictures as we went through the drill. Engine started for him on the first pull, impressing him a bit. he drove it around the little culdesac area in front for a while, getting at least a little bit of time working the levers and pitching the mush around a little. Better to play in the safe environment there than mowing shrubs with it in deeper snow.

Everything was melted by evening, all the evidence of snowblower mayhem mysteriously melted away.


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