# Problems with Troy Bilt Snow Blower - Considering Replacement - Help !



## Wildcat_1 (Nov 20, 2014)

All

New to the board but am hoping to get some guidance. I purchased a Troy Bilt 3090XP about 4 years ago. Had some issues with belt etc but overall not been too bad. That was until this season, go to start it up and fires up cold but after about a minute starts to run erratic then sputter and finally the engine dies. After this it will allow you to start it again but lasts less and less time on each subsequent start.

I replaced fuel, after flushing out old, replaced spark plug, cleaned out bowl (which was spotless already) and have run out of simple, cost effective ideas to get this thing running. I had a shop look at it, noted the engine as the probable problem and therefore looking at big money to replace.

Due to this I am considering getting into an Ariens 30" Platinum or one of the Husqvarna units. Of course my existing blower picks the worst time of year (both weather and lack of deals on new blowers) to have these issues.

Therefore I wanted to ask here if a) there is anything further anyone can recommend that I try on the Troy Bilt and b) if my thoughts on moving to an Ariens or Husqvarna would be a good one and step up in terms of engine at least ?

Thanks so much all

WC


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Just what did the shop say was the problem with the engine? That's pretty vague.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The Tecumseh engines can have similar issues when the valve stems heat up and expand and stop closing all the way. Yours sounds new enough to have one of the Honda clone type engines though. Have you tried running it with the gas cap off or loose? If the vent is plugged it can cause a vacuum which prevents fuel from going to the carb. The fuel lines can rot and expand on the inside and plug up as well. The clone engines also have a small second bowl before the main bowl that they call a sediment cup. Did you try cleaning that out as well?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Could be valves but it does sound like fuel. If you don't want to take the carb apart maybe just a replacement carb will get it running.
Like Micah asked, why do they think you need an engine ??


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

If you mechanical enough and you can replace the carburator....do it. #1 Never, ever put a engine away for a season with out "stable" in the fuel.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

I have to agree also, sounds like a fuel issue. Those carb's clog up real easy on those MTD clones. If it is the motor and terminal, I would do a re-power with a Predator.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Maybe this will help. You can see the augers spin on the shaft when the shear bolts are removed. If they don't spin like that they are rusted together and you end up breaking gears instead of bolts when you hit something.


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

You said the bowl was clean, did you check the high speed and idle jet? If not I would start there.


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## pckeen (Nov 13, 2014)

The most likely culprit is still problems with the carb. I suggest you do a youtube search for Tecumseh carb rebuild. A rebuild kit won't be all that expensive (cheaper than a new carb, and much much cheaper than a new snowblower).

Make sure you winterize the blower next year before putting it away.


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## Wildcat_1 (Nov 20, 2014)

All

Thanks for the replies. I will be completely up front and state I am by no means mechanically minded so pulling the motor or carb for a rebuild or re-install would not be something I think I could do.

I did check the bowl and it was spotless but did clean it out anyway just as matter of habit. I don't have any parts diagrams etc to know where to check high speed and idle jets but am willing to certainly take a look if anyone can point me in the right direction.

I am in complete agreement with the general consensus here that it appears fuel related. To me it sounds almost as though after that minute of running its like its being starved of gas and stopping. 

I will definitely try the gas cap tip tomorrow as well. 

With regards to these clogged carbs that were mentioned, can I assume stabil will help against that in future ? I was sure I put stabil in this past year but could be wrong.

Is there any type of additive/carb cleaner that I can put in the tank to help blow through whatever may be going on while it is running for that first minute ?

The engine shop stated that they have seen issues with these engines and combustion issues especially in the case of a fuel issue. Said that their recommendation would be the new motor but of course if I am looking at that kind of money would rather put it in a new machine at this point. They did not think carb would help this issue.

Will definitely be winterizing 150% next time around. Not happy that this unit is only 4 years old (barely) and has these issues.

Thanks all for your suggestions and help here, will report back on the gas cap piece and any other reco's

WC


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Wildcat_1 said:


> Thanks for the replies. I will be completely up front and state I am by no means mechanically minded so pulling the motor or carb for a rebuild or re-install would not be something I think I could do.


Well not with that attitude 
I understand where you're coming from in stating this, but it really isn't as intimidating as one might think. There are tons of videos about carburetor rebuilds, cleaning, and replacements, and probably just as many write-ups about engine swaps. On this forum, we have your back if you should decide to tackle such a project.

As far as the clogged carb, yes Stabil will work wonders in the future, but make sure it's the one meant for ethanol treatment.

You can add some Seafoam to the fuel to get it to help, but the chances of it remedying the situation is minimal because it works by being flushed through the fuel system over time. Only running for a minuter two isn't exactly an ideal run time, but the additive surely won't hurt.

And don't beat yourself up about your machine having these issues at 4 years. It can happen to anyone. The gas blends that we have nowadays can degrade in as little as 1 month and will then start to wreak havoc on the fuel system. I can certainly tell you it has happened to me many of times


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I would like to add that if this is indeed a fuel / carb issue and the shop told you that you need to replace the whole engine then you need to never go back to that shop again.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

Use Startron and or PriG for a fuel stabilizer. Stabil isn't very effective. Best thing to do is drain all the gas out and run the carb dry. I wouldn't be to intimidated on replacing a carb. If you take your time and take pictures, their not that hard to do.


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

I just did a quick search and it appears that your carb has the jet that screws into the main cylinder of the carb(same cylinder that the bowl nut screws into). If you feel up to it, with a small flathead screw driver carefully unscrew the jet from that main cylinder. You will also want to remove the emulsion tube that is located above the main jet, paying close attention to it's orientation as it comes out. The emulsion tube will sometimes fall out when the main jet is removed, but most times it requires you to tap the cylinder gently with a screw driver, if it's really gummed up, which is probably the case, you can shoot some carb cleaner or compressed air up the cylinder to lossen things up. Then it's a thorough cleaning of all the small holes in both. I would say since you have already taken the bowl off, this procedure probably isn't outside your capability.


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## Koenig041 (Dec 18, 2013)

Before you spend the money on a new motor spend about 40 to 60 bucks on a new carb. This is if you do not want to rebuild the old one. Like someone said the jet has really small holes that can easily get clogged. Changing the carb is real easy. Only 2 bolts connecting it to the engine. Take a pic with your phone before you start. Half hour job. Some sections are a little tight but not a big job at all. Ebay has tons of them. I replaced one on a tecumseh 5 hp that had not been started in 8 years. Started first pull. 

I would not go back to that shop again. They sound like they are looking to make a buck. Could I be wrong? Yes. But from what you have described, try this quick change first before spending the big money. Let us know how you make out.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Looking to make a buck or are just lazy and want to replace an engine rather than diagnose and repair the actual problem. It's fast and easy and you know with a new engine the customer is taken (care of)


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## Wildcat_1 (Nov 20, 2014)

All

Well what was interesting is the shop did not charge me anything to look at it which made me believe they just did not want to get involved with possible motor swap etc.

Anyway, update from me, thanks to the powers of forums like this and youtube/google I did pull this thing apart and do a carb replacement (couldn't bring myself to attempt the rebuild, sorry). Everything that came out (the old) looked spotless and certainly nothing visually wrong (of course I wouldn't see issues with the micro jets like you all said). 

Even with new carb, same issue. At complete cold will run for about 2-3 minutes (completely cold) then nearing then end of that time the engine tone will change, become erratic then splutter, splutter more and finally completely die. Subsequent starts from that point will yield less and less run time until it won't start. Pointing to something (in my opinion) relating also to heat ?

So at this point and with the threat of more snow looming  I picked up an Ariens 30" Platinum. I figured that worst case if I can fix anything else in the next 30, I can return this Ariens. However if I can't fix it and it truly is something motor related then I have a machine that works and gets me through the snow. Then just Craigslist the Troy Bilt as it is an otherwise perfect machine, hope to get something back from it.

So thats the latest. If anyone has any other ideas please do let me know, I really do appreciate the feedback and guidance. Unfortunately even with my new found slice of confidence in pulling this apart I can't stretch to replacing/rebuilding an engine 

Thanks


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

RoyP said:


> If you mechanical enough and you can replace the carburator....do it. #1 Never, ever put a engine away for a season with out "stable" in the fuel.


 or run the tank dry works for me.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If you didn't replace the fuel line I'd spend the $2 to make sure it's good and I'd also clean out the tank just in case something is on the bottom and finding it's way to and plugging up or restricting the path to the carb. It it has a fuel shut off then pull it and look into it or try to blow through it to make sure it's open too and not just "ON".

+1 with Powershift. Run it till it dies and put it away.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

at this point return the carb and the ariens and put a predator on it


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## Wildcat_1 (Nov 20, 2014)

Unfortunately no fuel shut off on this (I know crazy right). I will also replace the line though and try and clean the tank as best I can. One thing I don't like about these Troy bilts is the amount of plastic in the way of you doing anything !


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Or keep the Ariens as the OP is just starting to develop tinkering skills and it should be reliable and not let him down for some time or almost never if he maintains it.

Take your time and tinker with your Troy and once it's running, Craigslist it.

Did you ask about a trade in when you bought the Ariens ??


I know about plastic !! It's a real pain pulling the carb on my Troy. Have to pull the cover, the muffler guard, part of the muffler and even something over on the starter side. I couldn't believe all the bolts I had to pull to get to the carb. The old techs, three screwes and the choke knob and you're there. Fuel line, throttle linkage and two bolts and it's sitting in your hand


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## Wildcat_1 (Nov 20, 2014)

Thats whats crazy and there are places on this Troy Bilt that you can get all but one nut out of something then it will have you dismantle 3 other pieces just to get to the last nut !!! Infuriating to say the least.

I didn't ask about a trade because I picked up the Ariens at a Home Depot and didn't think they would offer anything like that. 

My thoughts were that with this being $1199 machine (the Troy Bilt) still on Lowes that if I get it working could make some good money but worst case, could Craigslist it to someone that does want to tinker for $400-$500 (fair ?). Again the machine is in great working order apart from this (I know its a big thing but my point being the rest of the unit is fantastic).

Thanks



Kiss4aFrog said:


> Or keep the Ariens as the OP is just starting to develop tinkering skills and it should be reliable and not let him down for some time or almost never if he maintains it.
> 
> Take your time and tinker with your Troy and once it's running, Craigslist it.
> 
> ...


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## Wildcat_1 (Nov 20, 2014)

Just a quick update. I called another local shop and they said to check the coil by getting the blower going then when it dies pull the plug, crank and test for spark. Stating that no spark could point to coil. Well of course do that and the plug is still producing a spark so I guess based on the info they stated this is NOT a coil issue either


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

what about the valve lash. use the honda gx160 specs to adjust them


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## Koenig041 (Dec 18, 2013)

Good for you changing the carb yourself. You did pick out a nice machine to replace your Troy. Does this sound like a possible valve issue to anyone? After a couple of seasons use they could need adjustment. But I'm only guessing. Video of the event would be helpful.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If it isn't fuel or spark then it is compression so yes, I say check the valves.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

Maybe should he try pressing the primer once or twice before the engine starves and if it gets back online then it would surely point to between the carb and the gas cap unless the new carb got soiled by debris again?


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

Excuse me everyone: Living in Troy, NY only 2 blocks where the name Troy Built was founded. It's just me. But the name was sold several years ago to MTD, it is no longer actually built in Troy, NY. 

Just wanted everyone to know.

Even when you visit the Troy Built web page http://www.troybilt.com/webapp/wcs/...Id=14102&pageName=siteFooter/about/about.html it leads you to think that they are still mfg in Troy, NY.....NOT for many years.


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## Jeff R. (Feb 14, 2014)

Wildcat, I am coming into this a little late. Did you try running the blower without the gas cap? My Dad's troy bilt blower acted the same way as you described and after I pulled the carb twice and did not see anything wrong, we then looked at the gas cap and found that the black plastic insert that acts as a vent was missing. Started it without the cap and it ran just fine.


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