# My 1973 10,000 series project



## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Hello,

I have been using a 1978 Baycrest snowblower (aka Canadiana by Murray) for the past 7 years. During that time, I have often referred to this forum for various information and also to look at your modified 60 to 80 Arien snowblowers.

Lately I have started shopping for a 70 to 80 Ariens snowblower and found a model such as this one that pleases me because of: drive clutch lever on top of handle (not under), throw-out clutch handle for the auger, flexible chute control rod, etc.
Note: This photo was borrowed from Scott Lawrence’s very useful “Ariens” web site.










I have an appointment to visit the owner of this 7 hp Ariens snowblower tomorrow but one detail puzzles me. When I asked the owner if the lockable differential worked as it should, he replied that he has never used it. I therefore take it for granted that it probable doesn’t work.
After glancing at post #9 here:

Differential

I saw how these should work. Do these ever lock solid because of being welded together by rust?
Any insight would be very appreciated!

Thank you


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I'll bet you a nickel the diff works


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

quexpress said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have been using a 1978 Baycrest snowblower (aka Canadiana by Murray) for the past 7 years. During that time, I have often referred to this forum for various information and also to look at your modified 60 to 80 Arien snowblowers.
> 
> ...


If it has white handlebars, it doesn't have a differential.
It does if the handlebars are chrome.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Rooskie said:


> If it has white handlebars, it doesn't have a differential.
> It does if the handlebars are chrome.


It has white handlebars.
In this case, could the wheels be "pinned" locked or "pinned" unlocked?
Thank you


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Jackmels said:


> I'll bet you a nickel the diff works


Is that a US nickel or a Canadian nickel?


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

Rooskie said:


> If it has white handlebars, it doesn't have a differential.
> It does if the handlebars are chrome.


I’ve got a white handlebar 78
924026 and it has locking differential 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

groomerz said:


> I’ve got a white handlebar 78
> 924026 and it has locking differential
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Were they originally white? Maybe by '78 things had changed. 
I have a 1971. I have observed that if you see a Ariens on CL or Marketplace of my vintage with chrome handlebars, there's a differential and if the handlebars are factory white, there is nothing to lock/unlock down there.
After that, I dunno what you do with one that hasn't a differential.
I strongly suggest a search through the community archives where I would bet an answer will be found.
Enter 'ariens differential' and the answers you seek will gush forth!
Sorry for not suggesting this sooner.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

I recall on our 10000 (pretty much the exact machine that is in your photo . . .), as received, the paint on the diff lock kept it from engaging, so for years we thought it didn't work until I gave it a whack one day and it engaged . . . I don't recall anything there rusting, and it's bonehead simple, so if it does have one, should be pretty easy to get it working if stuck.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Today I have purchased a 910995 (in nice shape) to build up from and a 924028 (in pretty bad shape) for spare parts.
Both have white handlebars ... AND ... both have the locking differential.
I am therefore quite happy with the result of my shopping. 
Thanks everyone! Much appreciated!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Congratulations on finding one in good shape. 

How about some photos of the machines?

What are your plans for them?


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Congratulations on finding one in good shape.
> 
> How about some photos of the machines?
> 
> What are your plans for them?


Thanks!
I paid for them but will be picking them up only in a few weeks. I will certainly post photos at that time.

I intend on upgrading the 910995 with parts I already have (longer chute, Snow Hog tires, heavy weight bar for ontop of the chute, 420cc Honda clone from my current Baycrest snowblower, etc.).

The 924028 is quite rusty and has been neglected. I might change my mind but for the time being, it will be used as an extra parts unit. I'm hoping that the auger parts, and the tractor parts (lower body, axle, drive train, etc.) are interchangeable with the ones on my 910995.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Following are a few pics of my (new to me) 10,000 series Ariens.
Tractor: 910021 (Series 001559)
Sno Thro: 910995 (Series 085151)
Engine: 7HP Model H70-130158A (Note: This tractor should have a 8 HP motor. It's easy to see that someone swapped the engine.)














































Tractor: 924026 (Serial # 024388)
Sno Thro: 924028 (Serial #034231)
Engine: 8HP Model SA202-3645 (Serial #3440117967 ... with China written near it...)






































Note: After having realized that my 10,000 series has one belt only, I knew that my 420cc engine would not be a good choice for it. I will certainly use a much smaller engine.

Thanks everyone!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Very nice machines, 2 classics! 

The 10000 series is in fantastic condition, looks hardly used for it's age. Both should clean up nicely.

Please keep us updated on your projects and we love photos.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Very nice machines, 2 classics!
> 
> The 10000 series is in fantastic condition, looks hardly used for it's age. Both should clean up nicely.
> 
> Please keep us updated on your projects and we love photos.


Thanks for the input @Ziggy65 
Much appreciated!
*The 10000 series is in fantastic condition, looks hardly used for it's age.*
That's what I thought also ... however closer examination made me realize that it has been used *A LOT*! This snowblower was repainted, etc. ... but the mechanical maintenance, etc. was IMHO botched. I've started taking it apart and will be coming back with pics for feedback, suggestions, etc.

In the mean time, I need help in figuring out the age of my 10000 series. The tractor and Sno Thro IDs point to 1973. However the plastic emblem on the auger leads me to think 1974 ... and maybe also the auger control rod which comprises 2 pieces instead of 1.

Thank you!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

That is a bummer. Yes I can see now that the outer auger bushing assemblies are painted, they should be bare metal.

The #'s indicate a 1973 model, perhaps the plant ran out of Ariens stickers and put on the new 1974 emblem? Without the original engine it will be hard to know for sure.

It really doesn't matter if it is 73 or 74 as the parts are the same for both and the machines are basically identical.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

quexpress said:


> Following are a few pics of my (new to me) 10,000 series Ariens.
> Tractor: 910021 (Series 001559)
> Sno Thro: 910995 (Series 085151)
> Engine: 7HP Model H70-130158A (Note: This tractor should have a 8 HP motor. It's easy to see that someone swapped the engine.)
> ...


Unless the model # is specific to an 8HP, I don't see anything "obvious" other than a changed fuel tank. I used to have that blower with a 7HP on it - it came either way from the factory.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

tadawson said:


> Unless the model # is specific to an 8HP, I don't see anything "obvious" other than a changed fuel tank. I used to have that blower with a 7HP on it - it came either way from the factory.



The model # 910021 indicates it was an 8 HP originally, page 2 of attached manual.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Closer Examination of my 1973 10,000 Series:*
The paint looks great but close examination revealed more than a few examples of *“red neck engineering”*.
On the right side axle was a pair of hose clips holding a piece of bolt. It seems like they wanted to prevent the axle from moving towards the tractor. However this resulted in a destroyed axle bushing along with its carrier.










The left end of the axle shows a hole … without its correcponding zerk…



The top portion of the tractor shows grinder marks and extra holes for the swapped 7 HP engine.



When moving the snowblower forward or backwards, a loud snapping noise could be heard in the drive/auger pulley area. I quickly realized that the 3 bolts attaching the drive pulley to the drive jaw coupling were loose. These bolts were immediately tightened.

Close examination of both jaw couplings revealed that they are in terrible shape. I therefore proceeded to separate the Sno Thro from the tractor.

The auger gear case seems to be greased because it does not appear to be dry. However no oil dripped out of it when left upside down. When rebuilding the Sno Thro, I will therefore fill the gear case with oil.



I then removed the wheels and axle from the tractor to permit the removal of the drive plate assembly.

On the drive plate assembly, the bearing holder part is damaged and was held in place by the addition of 2 small metal straps. Fortunately the broken aluminum part was still there.



After having dismantled the drive plate assembly, I thought that the aluminum bearing holder could be welded.



This is the result. IMHO the welding shop did a pretty good job.



This bearing holder could now be used… BUT to my dismay, the jaw couplings are in terrible shape. More than 50% of the jaws are gone!







I therefore need to replace these. After more than a week of searching for good jaw couplings, I realized that these 2 parts would cost approximately twice more than the price for a whole used snowblower.

I lucked out, found one in my area with good jaw couplings, and brought it home.

Tractor: 910002, Serial 015779

Sno Thro: 910995, Serial 050612

Engine: Model H60-753436, Serial 1301R









For the time being, it will be an “organ donor” for the rebuilding of my 1973 910021.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@quexpress, 

Your doing it right, great job, and that is a great weld on the aluminum. 

Your going to enjoy the final product, as you will have a great, reliable solid machine.

Here are a couple pics from a few of my restorations.....


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Very happy you found another 10000 series in good condition (1972 ?) for parts, although it may be the better machine to build from?

It's a shame someone ran machine into the ground, replacing the axle bushings would have prevented a lot of grief.

Great detailed photos, you are doing it right, not cutting corners.

I look forward to following your resto mod project, it should be a beast when you are done.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

oneacer said:


> @quexpress,
> 
> Your doing it right, great job, and that is a great weld on the aluminum.
> 
> ...


@oneacer Your restorations are top drawer. They certainly very inspiring. Thanks for the encouragement!


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

@Ziggy65



Ziggy65 said:


> Very happy you found another 10000 series in good condition (1972 ?) for parts, although it may be the better machine to build from?


I was under the impression that it is a 1971, but whatever. It _*could *_be rebuilt but I prefer the 1973 (being able to control the drive clutch directly from the right side handle bar, clutch lever *over *left handle instead of under, etc.).



> It's a shame someone ran machine into the ground, replacing the axle bushings would have prevented a lot of grief.


We're on the same page! 



> Great detailed photos, you are doing it right, not cutting corners.
> 
> I look forward to following your resto mod project, it should be a beast when you are done.


Thanks for the support! Much appreciated!


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

For the restauration/rebuild of my 910021, I have decided to illustrate certain steps in case these could be useful to other newbies such as me.

At a local bearing vendor, I purchased the following bearings and bushings.










As shown above:

The Ariens thrust bearing 54074 for the friction disc is a Timken T126.

The 2 drive plate ball bearings and the impeller bearing are Ariens 54063 (Height: 1/2", ID 3/4", OD 1-3/4"). Sealed 1635 2RS bearings are of that size.

On each end of the friction disc shaft are Ariens bearings 54080 (Height: 7/16", ID: 1/2", OD: 1-3/8"). Sealed 1621 2RS bearings are of that size.

The two 55030 Ariens axle flange bushings on my 910021 have a height of 7/16", an ID of 1/2"and an OD of 1-3/8"

The shown four Ariens auger bushings 55035 have a 1-inch inner diameter, a 1-1/4"OD and a width of 5/8". Two will go on the end of the auger shaft, and if needed, two will go in the middle onto the drive gear box.

*Removal and re-installation of the drive train:*











Remove the mechanical hair pin from the top shaft and pull this shaft to the left in order to free the top portion of the friction disc sliding fork.
Remove the cotter pin from the top finger of the shift mechanism transfer lever.
Remove the shown 3 side bolts and then remove the shift mechanism from the tractor.
If the whole drive train assembly is to be removed, pull out the large hair cotter pin from the bottom shaft of the disc bracket assembly.
Remove the master link from the chain and then pull it out from the assembly.
Remove the 2 small hair cotter pins from each side of the assembly in order to release the 2 small brackets (arms) that prevent the disc bracket assembly from swinging towards you.
The whole disc bracket assembly can now swing out as shown below.










Hold the hex shaft with a Westcott wrench and unscrew the nuts at each end of the shaft.

The small sprocket on the left can be removed as shown below. However a small woodruff key also needs to be removed from the shaft in order to permit the bearing on the left side to be removed.










Unfasten the 4 nuts on the left bearing carrier. This will permit you to pull the shaft to the left permitting the removal of the friction disc assembly.

Note: I also removed the right side bearing carrier because I wanted to replace the bearings on both ends of the hex shaft.

The thrust bearing inside the sliding fork is attached to the friction disc by a large circlip. Removal of this circlip was done with a circlip plier.










After separating both parts, it was possible to slide the Timken T126 thrust bearing out of the fork and replace it with a freshly greased new one.



















As shown above, the new T126 bearing was packed with Bel Ray waterproof grease and inserted into the arm. After placing the sliding fork over the friction disc attachment as shown above, it was time to replace the circlip. See the inserted circlip below.










The whole friction disc assembly (except for the 2 end nuts) is shown below along with the two new 1621 2RS bearings.










Re-assembly was done and the hex shaft received a small amount of lithium grease.










Note: The inside portion of bottom pipe was cleaned from rust and lubricated with copper anti-seize. It, and the shaft that enters it, was quite rusty and a bit tough to separate.

In previous steps, after having removed the above disc bracket assembly, on the largest chain sprocket on the left side, it was evident that the gear teeth on the pinion and its bushing were damaged.

Removal of the 2 small exterior bolts holding the support bracket to the left side of the tractor and also the longer bolt holding the bushing and sprocket in place permitted the removal of that pinion/sprocket assembly.










Damaged pinion teeth and bushing from 910021.










The following from the 910002, along with its chain, are in better shape and will therefore be transplanted into the 910021.



















Note: The above chain and its master clip have been soaked in kerosene for 24 hours.

Re-installation of all parts into the tractor has been done in reverse order of the removal explained above.










Note: The chain has been generously lubricated with Dupont Teflon Chain-Saver Dry, Self Cleaning Lubricant.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

You do very nice work, thanks for sharing and all the photos.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Excellent.
The step by step instructions and detailed photos will be of great use to many Ariens 10000 series owners , as well as the bearing and bushing info.

You do top notch work, thanks for taking the time to document and photograph your project.

What condition were the original bearings in?


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Someone, somewhere, someday is going to very grateful for your efforts.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Excellent.
> The step by step instructions and detailed photos will be of great use to many Ariens 10000 series owners , as well as the bearing and bushing info.
> 
> You do top notch work, thanks for taking the time to document and photograph your project.


Thanks for the kudos @Ziggy65 I was inspired by you and many others on this forum.



> What condition were the original bearings in?


I looked at them but didn't examine them very closely because I figured that after 48 years, it was time to change them.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

The drive plate assembly from the 910002 must be dismantled to be able to retrieve the desired jaw claw coupling.

The drive plate assembly was tightly clamped into the rubber protectors of my vice. A 2-foot pipe wrench then made it possible to unscrew the jaw coupling from the assembly.

Note: *These are left hand threads!* We therefore need to turn clockwise to unscrew the coupling. The pic shows the wrench in a vertical position but it had started out in a horizontal position. I simply pushed down on it. On the previous original one from the 910021, I had to lightly tap on the end of the wrench handle with a large hammer. It came off without too much difficulty.





After having freed the jaw coupling from the assembly, I now needed to separate the bearing holder from the drive plate. I held the bearing holder in my hand and gave a few hard taps on the end of the shaft with the shown dead blow hammer.



The parts separated as planned (without hurting the threads on the shaft.



The shaft now needs to be separated from the drive plate in order to permit changing the bearing near the plate.

The drive plate was clamped tightly into the vice as shown below.



The 2-foot pipe wrench was used to remove the shaft (in the same fashion as had been done for the jaw coupling above).



Note: In the above, I didn’t worry about damaging the shaft with the pipe wrench because that portion of the shaft does not touch anything.

The bearing at the bottom of the carrier as show below is left to be removed.



The carrier was clamped into the vice and a large ratchet socket and extension was inserted facing the bearing to be removed.



A few taps on the socket extension with a ball peen hammer and the bearing fell out from the bottom of the holder.

As shown below, the drive plate jaw claw coupling from the 910002 can now be used in combination with new bearings and the other shown items from the 910021.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Valuable information and great job detailing the step by step instructions of the process.

That is one serious vice!

I look forward to following your rebuild of this fine old machine.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*One Step Forward, Two Steps Back*

In a previous post, I had mentioned that the bearing holder part for the drive plate assembly and pulley had been damaged. Further inspection of the tractor revealed cracks in the front which were certainly caused by the loose/broken bearing holder. These cracks need to welded.

This is the front view of the crack (behind the pulley).










All of inside mechanism therefore needs to be removed again.










The drive mechanism was removed as explained previously.

To free the rear clutch lever mechanism, the spring was disconnected and then the top fork shaft was pulled out towards the left.










To release the shaft from inside the front clutch lever pipe, the outside cap on the left side of the tractor was removed before tapping on the inside shaft with a long punch to move it out towards the right hand side.










Note: That inside shaft quickly jammed because of rust, etc. It took lots of PB Blaster, etc. to gradually be able to extract the shaft from the front clutch lever pipe.

Note: These end caps are a bear to remove. Mine are now mangled and will need to be replaced.










The crack was high-lighted inside the tractor for the welder.










The top of the tractor had also been “mangled” by the previous owner (grinder marks, extra stud hole, etc.).

I asked the welder to plug the extra hole and weld another spot shut.










Since I intend on using a 208cc OHV engine, the left tractor support arm for the chute rod was notched and then bent in order to clear the future OHV engine valve cover, side, etc.










The bottom front right hand side corner of the tractor also needed a weld. This is where the tractor is connected to the Sno Thro.










All welds have been completed on the tractor.

Inside view:










Outside view: Front crack plus the chute rod bracket.










Bottom front right hand corner :










The tractor is now ready for paint preparation.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Nice weld repairs and modification to the chute rod bracket.

Appreciate the detailed photos, they are worth a thousand words


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Thread title updated at OP's request.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Thread title updated at OP's request.


Thanks a lot! Much appreciated!


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Handlebars*

The beige paint over the chrome was quite damaged.










I used paint stripper to remove the paint and see the condition of the chrome.



















This was an easy decision to make. The rust was cleaned up with a heavy duty twist knot wire wheel on my grinder. This removed the rust but revealed pin holes and other flaws.

The bars were sanded with 80, 120, 220 and then 320 grit paper. Paint thinner was used to clean the dust, etc. The bars were now clean but there were pin holes, scratches and other flaws to deal with.











I applied glazing spot putty to the pin holes, etc. and then let it dry for a few hours.

The putty was sanded with 120, 220 and then 320.

The bars were cleaned again with paint thinner.

Note: The products that were used (along with the glazing putty) were:










Duplicolor Self Etching Primer
Krylon 469039 White Primer
Krylon 42706 Gloss Dover White
Krylon 42705 Gloss Clear

2 light coats of self-etching primer were applied (20 minutes drying between each coat).










2 coats of white primer were applied (left it flash 10 to 15 minutes between each coat).

More glazing spot putty was applied to remaining pin holes, scratches and other flaws… and then let it dry for 24 hours.










Lightly sand the bars before applying white primer to the above glazed spots.

After 2 more light coats of white, 2 light coats of clear were applied (15 to 20 minutes between each coat).










The bars were set aside to cure for a minimum of 2 weeks.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*1971 Sno-Thro*

I decided to use the 1971 Sno Thro attachment because it is in better shape than the 1973 one.










However I wish to replace the 1971 impeller with the 1973 one. To remove the rakes, gearbox and impeller from the 1973 Sno Thro:

The pulley was removed from the back of the bucket.
The left and right outside bushing carriers were removed.
The whole impeller/auger assembly was pulled out of the Sno-Thro.











The rakes were then removed from the axle.
To release the impeller from the shaft, 2 roll pins needed to be tapped out.










Once the roll pins were removed, the impeller, etc. were placed in the vice.










After soaking it with PB Blaster for 24 hours, I tried tapping on the impeller central part to release it from the shaft … but no dice. It did not budge!

I decided to use my old hydraulic press to release the impeller from the helicon pinion shaft.

However the 24-inch rake shaft prevented me from dropping the gearbox through the small open space that is between the 2 horizontal beams of the press apron.










The rake shaft must therefore be separated from the gearbox. To do so:

The side cover was removed from the gearbox.
The roll pin holding the rake shaft to the gearbox gear was tapped out through front gearbox hole.










I cleaned the burrs, etc. off the shaft and then slid it out of the gearbox.
The gear was removed from inside the gearbox. It just flips out from behind the gear on the impeller shaft.
 I could now slide the gearbox down through the middle empty space of the press apron. This made it possible to press the helicon pinion shaft out of the impeller.

Note: Care had to be taken to support the middle portion of the impeller while pressing down on the shaft. Otherwise the impeller paddles could certainly be bent out of shape.

I clamped 2 small pieces of steel together on each side of the helicon pinion shaft in order to put pressure only on the middle “round pipe” portion of the impeller.










Thus the impeller and the gearbox were easily separated from each other.










Note: The 1971 impeller was also separated from its gearbox assembly in the same way as had been done above for the 1973 impeller.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Great details and photos to illustrate the process.

Question though, why do you prefer to use the 1973 impeller over the 1971 version?

I have found the impeller to housing gap smaller with the older style impeller compared to the newer style. Both designs are very heavy duty and well built.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Great details and photos to illustrate the process.


Thank you!



> Question though, why do you prefer to use the 1973 impeller over the 1971 version?


To my newbie eyes, it "seems" to be an improved reinforced version.



> I have found the impeller to housing gap smaller with the older style impeller compared to the newer style. Both designs are very heavy duty and well built.


I will need to compare the impeller to housing gap sizes. Thanks for the heads up!


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*1973 Tractor Paint, etc.*
Paint, etc. used:










Krylon 469040 Red Oxide Primer
Dupli-Color Chevrolet Orange DE1620
Dupli-Color Clear CDE1636

Every rusted area was cleaned up with a flap wheel sanding disc on my grinder. Grinder gouged areas on the top, etc. were filled with glazing spot putty and left to dry for a few hours.

The putty was then sanded with 320 grit sandpaper before preparing the whole tractor with 400 grit.

Note: Paint thinner was used to clean the dust, etc.

*Painting the inside portion of the tractor:*




























*Painting the outside portion of the tractor:*



















A few light coats of red oxide primer with 7 minutes between each coat:










Followed by 3 light coats of orange and then 1 light coat of clear (10 minutes between each coat):



















This Dupli-Color Engine Clear tends to drip after only 1 light coat over a few coats of engine paint. Since I prefer to apply a minimum of 3 clear coats to protect any spray can paint that I do, I will let this paint cure for a few weeks or more. I will then lightly wet sand it with 1500 grid sandpaper and try to apply 2 or 3 more coats of clear.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Great attention to detail.

Has to be one of the most thorough and detailed restorations I have seen. It's going to be a real show stopper when you are finished.

I have never applied clear coat, but I imagine it results in a beautiful finish. The key to getting good results with painting is following the manufacturers directions and applying light coats and having patience. Good call on letting the paint cure for a few weeks.

Can't wait to see the finished machine.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Great attention to detail.
> 
> Has to be one of the most thorough and detailed restorations I have seen. It's going to be a real show stopper when you are finished.
> 
> ...


Applying clear "usually" results in a brighter finish. The main goal is to protect the paint. If your unit is scratched, you only need to repair the clear coat.
Note: This engine clear has to be the most finicky clear coat that I have ever dealt with. If you sneeze ... it will drip LOL!


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Painting the 1971 Rakes*

The rakes have undergone the same process with the same materials as shown previously for the tractor.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Painting the 1971 Sno-Thro Blower Housing*

The welds on each bottom front corner of the bucket were broken and damaged.

The scraper bar and both skids were therefore removed in order to prepare the bucket for the welding shop.





































The bucket was delivered to and later picked up at the welding shop. This was the result.

Inside welding:










… and outside welding:










The 1971 Sno Thro blower housing was now ready for paint preparation.

*The tools used were:*

- a grinder with abrasive flap disc,










- a mini abrasive flap wheel on a drill,










… 320 and 400 grit sandpaper.

*Note:* For more stubborn rust, a HD wire wheel on a grinder was used.










The same steps and material previously used to paint the tractor were used for the blower housing.

*Preparation:*























































*… after 2 coats of primer:*










*Followed by 3 coats of orange and 3 coats of clear:*



















*Note*: For the outside portion of the bucket, I needed to stop after 1 coat of clear because it started dripping (most probably due to the temperature/humidity ratio).

The housing was set aside for a few days before doing the inside portion.

For the inside, I was able to apply 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of orange and 3 coats of clear without any dripping problems.

The housing was set aside to let the paint cure for at least a few weeks before wet sanding the outside portion with 1500 grid sandpaper and then applying 2 additional coats of clear … or more.

*Note*: A 12 lb steel bar weight that I had been installed on my previous Baycrest snowblower was modified to fit onto front of this blower housing. The bar weight will also be painted with Chevrolet Orange DE1620.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Very thorough and detailed prep and paint, resulted in a show quality paint job. Very nice.

I am really enjoying following your project.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Ziggy65 said:


> Very thorough and detailed prep and paint, resulted in a show quality paint job. Very nice.
> 
> I am really enjoying following your project.


Thank you! I tend to hesitate when posting many pics fearing to flood the forum with too much information.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Keep the photos coming, we love following the process and look forward to seeing the finished project.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

We all love photos, .... the more , the better .....


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

OK thanks guys. I'll stop hesitating when uploading pics, etc.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Painting the 1973 Impeller

Note:* The impeller has undergone the same process with the same materials as shown previously for the tractor.

This impeller had been painted with 2 different colors plus it had lots of rust.










I therefore decided to send it off to be sandblasted.

Sandblasting did not manage to remove all of the paint. There were several remaining spots of paint. Since I intended on using self-etching primer, I decided to use paint stripper to clean up the remaining paint spots.



















*Note:* The rough edges on the impeller tips have been cleaned up with a grinder. 2 holes have been drilled in each paddle in order to permit doing the rubber flap modification.

All cleaned up ready to be painted:










After 2 coats of self-etching primer:










30 minutes later, application of 2 coats of red oxide primer:










10 minutes later, application of 3 coats of Chevrolet Orange DE1620…

… and 10 minutes later, application of 2 coats of clear. I stopped here because the clear started dripping.










The impeller has been set aside to cure for at least 2 weeks. Later on there is a good possibility that it will be wet sanded with 1500 grid sandpaper in order to permit applying 2 or more additional coats of clear.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

LOL .... you just added 5 lbs to that impeller in paint ....


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Oneacer said:


> LOL .... you just added 5 lbs to that impeller in paint ....


About 2.25 kg I guess.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Refreshing the gearbox: Part 1 of 3*

As I turned the gearbox helicon pinion shaft by hand I realized that the roller bearings dragged more than I like. I then decided to replace all of the bearings, bushings and seals.

I used a pin punch to start unscrewing the rear gearbox adjustment plug, and then continued with a motorcycle rear shock spring adjustment tool.

For the gearbox assembly, the helicon pinion shaft is stuck inside the rear portion of the gearbox because it’s held in there by the outside bearing race. To free the shaft, with one hand I lifted the gearbox assembly by the helicon pinion shaft and then used the other hand to tap on the gearbox rear end with a hammer until it broke loose.










A roll pin now had to be removed with a pin punch in order to free the spacer that sits between the two tapered roller bearings.










A puller was then used to free the top bearing.










The first bearing and the spacer were removed but the second one was much more challenging.
Notice the knurled sections on the shaft as shown in the next pic.










That’s where each bearing sits … and the second bearing removal can prove to be difficult. Mine didn’t want to collaborate.

The hydraulic press came to the rescue. The shaft was pushed out of the bearing through an 18-inch length of ¾-inch water pipe.










This is the helicon pinion shaft along with two new “Timken Set 2” (LM11949/LM11910) roller bearing sets, a roll pin and the spacer.










The ¾inch water pipe was used to press the first tapered roller bearing onto the shaft.










After having attached the spacer to the shaft with the required roll pin, the second tapered roller bearing was also pressed onto the shaft with the ¾inch water pipe.










Note: For tapered roller bearings, each bearing race is matched to its corresponding bearing. Therefore each bearing box was identified before setting the races inside their respective boxes for later installation.










The outside bearing race had come out while pulling out the helicon pinion shaft and the tapered roller bearing assembly.










However the race towards the middle of the gearbox sits on a clip.










*DIY Gearbox Inside Race Puller*

To pull the race from inside the gearbox, I used the following:

- ½-inch threaded rod (7 inches long)

- 3 washers of different sizes

- 1-1/8 half inch socket










Note: It is important that the socket slides past the ring clip without touching it. It must push on the race only.

Puller set up inside the gearbox and ready to be used.










Inside roller bearing race extracted from the gearbox.










Note: Before installing the new inside race, the paint inside the gearbox was cleaned up as much as possible.

A 32 mm socket was used to lightly tap the new race into the bottom of the gearbox. It is important to tap only on the outside edges of the race. Otherwise the inside edge of the bearing race will be damaged.










The newly installed race is now sitting against the circlip at the bottom of the gearbox:










This generic 5/16 x 2 roll pin was reduced with a cut-off disc to be 5/16 x 1 3/8.










Since the helicon pinion shaft is not yet installed into the rear of the gearbox, I decided to avoid attaching the helicon gear to the front gear shaft by installing the roll pin through the gearbox front hole. I find that procedure quite challenging to say the least (line up the parts, hold the roll pin and then tap on it with a punch through the front gearbox hole, etc.). I would certainly have used many choice words with that method.

Instead I decided to attach the helicon gear to the front gear shaft *BEFORE* inserting both of these into the gearbox through the open side cover. The impeller’s helicon pinion shaft can still be easily inserted into the rear portion of the gearbox. IMHO this is much easier to do than going through the gearbox front hole, etc.

This is a short bolt that was used to line up the center hole on the front gear shaft with the hole in the pinion gear. It made it easier to insert the roll pin.










The front gear shaft and helicon gear were now attached together and ready to be inserted into the gearbox through its open side cover.










BTW the hole for that roll pin is at the exact centre of the front gear shaft. There is therefore no need to worry about the orientation of the gear on the shaft. The holes for shear bolts on the front gear shaft are also at the same place on each side of the rake axle.

Continued ...


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Refreshing the gearbox: Part 2 of 3*

The side seals were easily pried out from the gearbox with this tack remover/lifter tool.










On the vice the bushings were pressed in from the outside with a 20mm socket and dropped free inside the gearbox.










A new bushing was pressed into the gearbox side cover. Note: The Ariens part number for these bushings is 55035.










The other bushing was pulled into its place on the other side of the gearbox.

Note: When possible, I prefer to press or pull bushings, bearings, etc. instead of tapping on them with a hammer, etc.










The side oil seals were lightly tapped into place with a socket. Note: The Ariens part number for these side seals is 56061.










Once installed, the seals and bushings were oiled (preparing for the future front gear shaft installation).










The gearbox rear seal needed to be separated from the adjustment plug.

Outside view:










Inside view:










The seal was pushed out from this side with a 1-inch socket.










Note: The shown notch on the thread was there when I purchased the snowblower. Since it does not come in contact with the gearbox inside threads, I did not touch it. Otherwise I would have filed the notch off.

Once the bushing has been removed, the lip inside the adjustment plug makes it apparent why it had to be pushed out from the other side.










The installed bushing: (The Ariens part number for this oil seal is 56062.)

Outside view:










Inside view:










Note: Nicks and burs had previously been cleaned up with a file, etc. on both the helicon pinion shaft and the front gear shaft.

The front gear shaft was generously oiled before being pushed into the gearbox through the open side cover.

Before screwing in the adjustment plug, the roller bearing race for the rear of the gearbox was gently tapped into place with a short piece of exhaust pipe (approximately 32 mm OD).

Synthetic 75W-90 gear oil was added to the gearbox:










Grease has been applied to both sides of the original gasket before closing the gearbox. I prefer this method than using RTV, etc. which is a major PIA when comes time to remove gaskets in the future.










These new seals are tight! A motorcycle steering stem driver tool was used to lightly tap the side cover into its place.










Once the gearbox side cover was buttoned up, the *front gear shaft was jammed!* After loosening up the side cover bolts, the front gear shaft was released and turned freely. That 50 year old original gasket had certainly shrunk too much. It was now paper thin.

Since I have some 1/16th inch cork gasket material in my garage, I decided to use some to make my own gearbox cover gasket.










The newly made cork gasket was greased on both sides and used to replace that OEM thin gasket.










Continued ...


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Excellent documentation with the step by step instructions and photos. A great help to anyone tackling this repair in the future.

This vintage of cast iron gear box were pretty well bullet proof, as long as the gear oil is maintained and the correct shear pins are used in the auger shaft.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Refreshing the gearbox: Part 3 of 3*

The exterior of the gearbox had been previously cleaned up, sanded, etc. It was now degreased again in preparation for painting.










After 2 coats of Dupli-Color Self-Etching Primer:










After 2 coats of Krylon 469040 Red Oxide Primer:










After 3 coats of Dupli-Color Chevrolet Orange DE1620:










The gearbox has been set aside to let the paint cure for a few weeks or more.

Note: My intention was not to reinvent the wheel. I tried to illustrate the steps that I have taken to refresh my Ariens auger gearbox in case this could help other newbies such as myself.

For more gearbox information, refer to the following two excellent posts which helped me very much.

*1970s Style Cast Iron Gear Case Dissassembly*

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/threads/1970s-style-cast-iron-gear-case-dissassembly.11850/#post-1156258

*1961 10ML55 Impeller seal replacement*

1961 10ML55 Impeller seal replacement


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*Rebuilding the Drive Plate Assembly*

The driven clutch sheave pulley was quite rusted. I decided to send it out to be sandblasted.










On its return, it was prepared for paint.










A few coats of self-etching primer:










… followed by a few coats of Tremclad Aluminum Rust paint:










After a few weeks of curing, this pulley was ready to be reunited with the drive plate assembly.

I started by fastening the pulley to the jaw coupling. Note: A small amount of blue Loctite was applied to each coupling bolt hole.




























The next step involves attaching the spindle to the drive plate while inserting a 1635-2RS bearing between these 2 parts.










The spindle threaded on by hand:










The spindle lightly tightened with a pipe wrench. Easy does it! That pipe wrench has a lot of leverage (turning force)!

Note: These are left hand threads (lefty to tighten).










A 32 mm socket was used to press the rear 1635-2RS bearing into the bearing housing.



















To combine the above bearing housing with the previously shown drive plate assembly, the hydraulic press was used along with a 32 mm socket.



















The pulley/jaw coupling now needed to be screwed on to the above assembly.










These were lightly tightened with the pipe wrench (left hand thread).

The whole assembly has been set aside ready to be inserted into the tractor.


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

All I can say is WOW. What a great example of work and attention to detail!


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

*DIY Gear Case Adjustment Plug Tool*

After having tried different tools (motorcycle shock spring adjustment tool, screwdriver and/or chisel to tap on the adjustment plug slots), I decided to fabricate an adjustment tool.

The items used were:

Large flat washer (1/8” thick, 2¼” OD, 15/16” ID)
Large nut (7/8” thick, 1 7/16” OD, 13/16” ID)
Shaft key for double pulley (2 15/16” long, 7/32” square)










The shaft key fits just right into the 2 slots of the adjustment plug.










The key will therefore be tack welded onto the bottom of the flat washer as follows:










Note: The dotted lines show that the middle portion of the key and the portions that extend pass the washer OD will be trimmed off (after having been tack welded onto the washer).

The large nut will then be tack welded onto the top of the washer/shaft key assembly as follows:










This old adjustable wrench laying in the bottom of one of my tool boxes will certainly do the job!










Different views of the completed tool:



















In the above pic, arrows point at the welded areas that needed to be cleaned up in order to clear the 2 slots on the adjustment plug.

The nut was tack welded onto the opposite side of the washer/key assembly:










Verifying how the tool fits over the adjustment nut:










Setting up to start adjusting the plug:

Note: The pic makes the tool seems to be lop sided on top of the plug but it isn’t. Once started, it sits flat onto the adjustment plug.










Making the final adjustments:










I’m quite happy with the result. This little tool makes it quite easy to screw and unscrew the rear adjustment plug on these gear cases.

Note: I used an extra gear case that I have to illustrate the steps used to fabricate the tool. I will eventually use this tool to complete the adjustments on the newly painted gear case that was set aside to let the paint cure.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

You do beautiful work. It’s going to be a showroom machine when you’re done.


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Is it done? I've never see such meticulous work before.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

Rooskie said:


> Is it done? I've never see such meticulous work before.


Not yet. Life got in the way  ... but I'm expecting (and very anxious) to get back to it within the next few months.
Thanks for asking.


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## HWMF (2 mo ago)

quexpress said:


> For the restauration/rebuild of my 910021, I have decided to illustrate certain steps in case these could be useful to other newbies such as me. At a local bearing vendor, I purchased the following bearings and bushings.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 that bearing information is gold my friend!


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## HWMF (2 mo ago)

quexpress said:


> The drive plate assembly from the 910002 must be dismantled to be able to retrieve the desired jaw claw coupling.
> 
> The drive plate assembly was tightly clamped into the rubber protectors of my vice. A 2-foot pipe wrench then made it possible to unscrew the jaw coupling from the assembly.
> 
> ...


your information AND documentation of everything is priceless! 
THANK YOU!


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

HWMF said:


> your information AND documentation of everything is priceless!
> THANK YOU!


You are most welcome! I'm happy to hear that this could help another newbie such as I.
Note: I must soon get my ducks lined up and reassemble this snowblower.


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