# Chute direction crank is too loose on Craftsman 9HP



## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

Hello, I thought I would ask what can be done for the crank handle being rather loose for the chute direction selection. It is a 17 year old Craftsman 9HP 29" with a Tecumseh engine. The thrower is model: 536.887990, engine 143.039003 (probably not necessary).

It rotates easily so much so, If my selection for direction, leaves the handle in the up position, the vibration of the thrower running makes it fall changing direction. When I first bought it it was snug and I mistakenly lubricated the universal joint, the gear mount bracket, and the eye bolt grommet. 

Is there anything I can do to get some friction back so it stays in the direction I have set it?

Below is the parts image, key 861 is the grommet and the 852-* parts are the universal joint, gear, and bracket:











Thank you for taking the time to read my question.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Go to the hardware store and get a new rubber grommet that fits the eye bolt and is snug on the shaft. I replaced the one on my HS80 every 10 years or so (3 times).


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

It is normal to lube the universal knuckle joints, as they are metal on metal spinning all the time.

I am sure when it was new, everything tight, the grommet within the eyebolt was enough to keep things taut.

If you have issues with things so lose nothing stays, I would get a short black rubber tie down, hook on end way from the chute rod, around the chute rod, and back to the same or near the hook point … i.e., just enough so you can spin the chute, but yet enough to hold it there where you want it. You can also get fancy and grove 2 pieces of plastic, like a cutting board, and sandwich the rod in between, screw it down, thus creating a taut, yet movable rod. Many creative ways to do it, but the tie down is probably easiest and quickest.

Or as tabora states, try a new grommet.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

an easy fix would be to just rotate the eye loop on the handle so it pinches it so to speak and t won't spin so easily.


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

Thank you for the suggestions.
@tabora

Is it an easy job to replace the grommet, I presume I have to remove the hair pin (852-9) on the u-joint and pull the handle out to get the grommet off and reverse to install the new one?


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Believe I would first check the tightness of the four bolts holding the chute collar. (606 on the parts diagram). Anything that makes this connection tighter will tighten the overall assembly. (Personally I would want the crank handle to be free .... loose).
The groment in the eye bolt is probably the device that provides to friction for th he handle. It may be worn and beed replacing. Part #861 on the diagram. Craftsman part number 148.


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

@enigma-2

Thanks for the suggestion. I will check the collar bolts tautness. The loose crank handle allows the handle to spin on it's own causing the chute direction to alter. This has been problematic, thus my query here on the forum. I thought loose would be good when I first lubed the parts, but have found in time it is a hassle. I would walk behind the thrower and hold my left knee against the handle to hold it in the preferred position. It looked like I was doing some strange dance walking behind the thrower. LOL


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Sgthawker said:


> tabora: Is it an easy job to replace the grommet, I presume I have to remove the hair pin (852-9) on the u-joint and pull the handle out to get the grommet off and reverse to install the new one?


Yes, I believe that would be the path of least resistance on your model. On the Honda, I pulled off the handle, unbolted the bracket and slid the bracket off that way, but the hairpin removal should be much less work.


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

Sgthawker said:


> Hello, I thought I would ask what can be done for the crank handle being rather loose for the chute direction selection. It is a 17 year old Craftsman 9HP 29" with a Tecumseh engine. The thrower is model: 536.887990, engine 143.039003 (probably not necessary).
> 
> It rotates easily so much so, If my selection for direction, leaves the handle in the up position, the vibration of the thrower running makes it fall changing direction. When I first bought it it was snug and I mistakenly lubricated the universal joint, the gear mount bracket, and the eye bolt grommet.
> 
> ...


" Sgthawker" your Craftsman snowblower was very likely built by Murray. I have a 2004 Murray which I'm currently restoring (see my thread in the "Murray section) and I have the exact same chute as you (same diagram with the same part numbers and also the same problem, mechanism being too loose). When I took mine apart last summer to restore it I noticed that there is a spring (see pictures below) on mine which is *not shown anywhere on the diagram*! Was it added by a previous owner?… I dunno... but I think that finding a longer spring to make everything tighter or add some kind of spacer (sleeve) at one end of the spring to compress it a little more should add more tension on it and hopefully solve the problem once and for all. :thumbsup: 
I'm not quite done with the reassembly yet but I'll keep you posted when everything's put back together with some results.
Hope this helps!

Claude.


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

toofastforyou said:


> " Sgthawker" When I took mine apart last summer to restore it I noticed that there is a spring (see pictures below) on mine which is *not shown anywhere on the diagram*! Was it added by a previous owner?… I dunno... but I think that finding a longer spring to make everything tighter or add some kind of spacer (sleeve) at one end of the spring to compress it a little more should add more tension on it and hopefully solve the problem once and for all.Claude.


 @toofastforyou,

Interesting find. I can say for sure that my thrower never had the spring you mention. I am the original purchaser and never saw one in the location you indicate. 

Thanks for the info though, I will consider what may be done to replicate the idea.


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

Sgthawker said:


> toofastforyou,
> 
> Interesting find. I can say for sure that my thrower never had the spring you mention. I am the original purchaser and never saw one in the location you indicate.
> 
> Thanks for the info though, I will consider what may be done to replicate the idea.


Sgthawker, when I bought my machine (used) last year, there was no way for me to know that the spring was not factory installed and that it could have been added by a previous owner. But now when looking at the assembly manual, it's clear that the spring isn't original and also confirmed by you for not having one on your machine. I think that "original" or not, it still is a good idea that I'll try to improve with either a longer spring or keep the same spring and add a "sleeve" to compress it even more adding some tension.
Thanks,

Claude.:wink:


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

@toofastforyou

Let me know if the modifications are successful.

Good Luck! :smile2:


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@toofast,

It appears in your first photo, that the cog gear was rubbing on the chute, i.e. all marked and rusted there, and the spring was added for tension to keep it from rubbing there. Also looks like it never got lubed. If it was me, I would put a neoprene/plastic washer where the cog gear now rubs on the bracket frame and lube, as well as where the spring rubs on the metal framing. You might want to pull that bent nail and put a cotter pin back in the universal joint as well for easy access,  , ... just sayin.

Another easy way to add some tension on that where it does not slop around on you, I would try a piece of rubber or soft plastic in a wedge shape, drop it between the bracket and the chute shaft, and screw it there. Then it would keep enough tension where you could spin the chute, but yet not flop around on you. Also by being slightly wedged shape, you could adjust it. Many ways to keep tension on a rod from spinning.


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

oneacer said:


> @toofast,
> 
> " I would put a neoprene/plastic washer where the cog gear now rubs on the bracket frame and lube, as well as where the spring rubs on the metal framing. You might want to pull that bent nail and put a cotter pin back in the universal joint as well for easy access "


"oneacer" you have a good idea about the nylon washer so I put one between the gear and the bracket (seen in the picture below) it and it now works much smoother and "grinds" less against the bracket. :smile:… but there is no "bent nail" anywhere. It's a pin with a hole into which a cotter pin goes in… (see #'s 852-11 and 852-5 on the diagram in the initial post)…and the gear is held on the rod with a clip (# 852-7).
Thanks for your help! :wink:
and
"Sgthawker", in the picture you can see I added a small sleeve on the shaft to compress the spring a little more but it turns out that it's the spring itself that's not stiff enough. A new, stiffer and longer spring should solve that and also eliminate the need for that small sleeve. I'll keep everyone posted…

Claude. :smiley-greet025:


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I like the grommet and spring ideas but thought I'd throw this one out there. Take a bungee cord and wrap it once or twice around the shaft to keep some tension on it. Some machines it will work great on and others it seems it's a pain because it will try to wind up on the shaft.

.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Kiss,


I suggested that in the 3rd post as a quick fix........


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

@Kiss4aFrog @oneacer

I did see that suggestion above, but I am not so sure about where to hook both ends and if it would hold up in cold temps?

I will say I found the grommet and have it on order as a first attempt at resolution.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

At least you have a few options, and can probably fashion/concoct a few more … god luck.


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

I'm back with a better mod this time… I replaced the weak spring shown in my previous post with a longer and much stiffer one, eliminating the need for the small bushing I added previously, but still keeping the nylon washer just behind the gear for a smooth operation (thanks to "oneacer") :wink:. Now there's a lot more tension and the mechanism is much stiffer than before so I'm pretty confident that it'll solve the problem of the chute being too loose. :goodjob:

Claude.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Looks good to me …. a little chain and cable lube on the gear to the chute when you install it, as well as a drop at the universal, etc … and your good to go. No way is that chute going to flop on its own now …. 

BTW, I see now its a clip in this photo at the shaft cog gear end, …


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I had this issue with one. I used a Large hose clamp went around bracket and against the Control Rod. Tighten and Done.


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

@Jackmels

I am not sure I understand your fix. Do you mean around the bracket center, between the two bent ends that the rod travels through? This puts the clamp right up against the short rod/yoke giving it friction?


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Clamp is on the rod, and around Bracket. Tighten and go. Sorry, don't have a pic. Sold the Machine.


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

toofastforyou said:


> I'm back with a better mod this time… I replaced the weak spring shown in my previous post with a longer and much stiffer one, eliminating the need for the small bushing I added previously, but still keeping the nylon washer just behind the gear for a smooth operation (thanks to "oneacer") :wink:. Now there's a lot more tension and the mechanism is much stiffer than before so I'm pretty confident that it'll solve the problem of the chute being too loose. :goodjob:
> 
> Claude.


Nice repair toofastforyou!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Sgthawker said:


> @Kiss4aFrog @oneacer
> 
> I did see that suggestion above, but I am not so sure about where to hook both ends and if it would hold up in cold temps?
> 
> I will say I found the grommet and have it on order as a first attempt at resolution.


Sorry I repeated Oneacer's suggestion. Wasn't reading close enough.
There isn't a "place" to attach it. You just have to look at your machine and figure out what might work best. Then to determine how long it should be. BUT, it works on some and on others it tried to wind up on the shaft. I was using bungee cords that were cloth covered. Temp didn't seem to make a difference. Oneacer referred to the black rubber cords and it's just a matter of what works best for you or what you have laying around.









.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

If you have no place to hook (strange as it may be), you can always hook it to itself …. 

These bungies/tie downs are like duct tape and zip ties … every shop/garage should have them in stock always … 

Also, little tip … before you discard anything, pull off every nut, bolt, clip, etc. … put them in a drawer for the next time … save a trip to the hardware store.

Actually, just put a couple zip ties together to create slight friction tension …  … like was stated, a million ways to go at it, from very simple to very hard … the older you get, the more creative you get …


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

@Kiss4aFrog @oneacer

Ah, I see. So I give it a military SWAG(Scientific Wild Ass Guess) to make it work. Thanks again!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

😊 Have not heard that used in awhile .... My brother is retired from service, he uses that term ... Exactly, try whatever works for you ....😊


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## Allan (Nov 9, 2018)

I used a rubber bushing I had lying around..
I split the bushing length wise, then slipped it over the shaft and into the eyebolt. The bushing has a lip on it so it does not slide out of the eyebolt. I put a small tie wrap around the bushing to hold it together.


Works great - chute stays put when adjusted!


Allan


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Those zip ties are one of the greatest invention.


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## Allan (Nov 9, 2018)

Well maybe it had a zip tie - definitely not there now!


Allan


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

oneacer said:


> Those zip ties are one of the greatest invention.


 @oneacer

Oh Boy, you are not kidding, they are handy for so many things! My brother in law works for the local power company, they were donating large 3/4" by 14" zip ties to local police for use in lieu of handcuffs for multiple arrest situations.


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

oneacer said:


> Those zip ties are one of the greatest invention.


Yeah… I use them to tie up my girlfriend when she won't listen to me! :icon_smile_big::icon-hgtg:

Claude.


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

toofastforyou said:


> Yeah… I use them to tie up my girlfriend when she won't listen to me! :icon_smile_big::icon-hgtg:
> 
> Claude.


Yeah, Sure...when she won't listen...LOL :smile_big:


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

Well after some other maintenance issues, I finally got the grommet installed for the crank handle, but it did not fully resolve this issue. It still rotates via vibration, although it is at a reduced rate. So I will attempt one of the other suggestions to see how it goes.


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## toofastforyou (Jan 29, 2019)

Sgthawker said:


> Well after some other maintenance issues, I finally got the grommet installed for the crank handle, but it did not fully resolve this issue. It still rotates via vibration, although it is at a reduced rate. So I will attempt one of the other suggestions to see how it goes.


Keep the grommet and add "my" spring modification (shown in earlier posts)… :thumbsup::smiley-whacky017:

Claude.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Sgthawker said:


> @*Kiss4aFrog* @*oneacer*
> 
> Ah, I see. So I give it a military SWAG(Scientific Wild Ass Guess) to make it work. Thanks again!


 
There is also that other famous phrase- 

KISS................Keep It Simple Stupid ( No offense intended)


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Sgt,

Real easy, take a zip tie, wrap it around the eye bolt, and then the opposite side and shaft, i.e., other side if the eye bolt, and close it tight. See if that doesn't snug up the turn ability to a firmer grab. Do that also down by the chute itself, i.e. wrap through the bracket and around the crank shaft and snug it up, thus giving a firm grip there also while spinning the hand crank. try more or less for a firm feel, and of course snipping off the excess of the zip ties for a clean look.


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## notabiker (Dec 14, 2018)

Would a large hose that fits snugly over the universal joint area add enough friction to keep the handle from rotating?


You can always rotate the eyelet the shaft goes through (which you put the rubber bushing) so instead of the shaft seeing a perfect circle, it would be an elipse shape as rotating would bring the top and bottom closer together compared to the plane the shaft sees.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

As mentioned, there are a 100 ways to put tension an a shaft … from real easy to real hard …


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

oneacer said:


> As mentioned, there are a 100 ways to put tension an a shaft … from real easy to real hard …


I see what you did there!

:grin:


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## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

I hope it is not frowned upon to revive an old post, but I disassembled the discharge chute and chute rod and cleaned them up and tightened the inner and outer retainer ring, along with cleaning the lube off the curved spring washer and the grommet to chute rod, and found the friction to be greatly improved. There is a 5" to 8" storm headed here in a couple of days, so I will see how it holds up. 

Thanks to all who responded for some great info.


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