# I'm In!!! Just picked up my first vintage!



## Zavie

Just picked this up today. It's a Toro 524. Has the electric start. Listened to you guys so I was able to start it from cold. Has a couple puffs of smoke from the engine but settles down and runs great. I'm so hooked! I'm sure I'll have lots of questions, I know the fuel line is not correct but that's where you Toro experts can help out.


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## micah68kj

You chose a good machine. I have a 521. I'm not quite sure what you mean about the fuel line. I can't even see it to make judgement.


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## 43128

a few puffs on start up is normal because it runs rich with the choke applied. i have the same machine except mines an 824, same frame but a bigger engine


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## Zavie

micah68kj said:


> You chose a good machine. I have a 521. I'm not quite sure what you mean about the fuel line. I can't even see it to ake judgement.


The fuel line comes out the bottom of the tank and bends towards the carb. He told me he had put a new line on. It puts quite a kink in the line. I'm sure I'm
missing a petcock or fuel line shut off or some other part so the line doesn't have a sharp 90 degree bend in it.


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## detdrbuzzard

nice find but don't get too hooked or your signature will look similar to mine


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## Kiss4aFrog

You can grab a 90 drg vacuum fitting at an auto parts store or a fuel line shut off valve. P/N Briggs and Stratton 698181
Glad to see you're infected like a lot of us 










*#47316* by *DORMAN*


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## greatwhitebuffalo

nice score. I think the reason they made the auger shaft so big with those round covers, is to limit how much snow can be ingested into the impeller, therefore limiting the possibility of it jamming up with snow. those are neat looking machines. good luck with it.


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## micah68kj

Zavie said:


> The fuel line comes out the bottom of the tank and bends towards the carb. He told me he had put a new line on. It puts quite a kink in the line. I'm sure I'm
> missing a petcock or fuel line shut off or some other part so the line doesn't have a sharp 90 degree bend in it.


I understand. Yep. He got rid of the fuel shutoff valve that _frog_ shows in his pics. You really ought to have one of them on there.


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## Kiss4aFrog

And maybe a filter too. I ordered 10 of each off ebay a few months back. When you buy a few at a time they get pretty cheap. If you can use a few that is.


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## Zavie

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll get a shut off and filter ASAP.


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## classiccat

Congrats on your "new" machine!!!


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## UNDERTAKER

MAZEL TOV there ZAVIE.


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## UNDERTAKER

is that your first snow blower.


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## Zavie

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> is that your first snow blower.


I have a single stage 15-16 year old craptsman. I also have a new 2 stage Husqvarna. I have been looking for an old tank like you guys talk about to let my 15 year old son use with me. This 524 may not be for this winter however. It does start good, (with even less puffs of smoke today) then runs and dies. It varies between 1-3 minutes depending on temp outside. My guess is a carbie issue. I drained the tank and emptied the fuel bowl. It's got great compression and overall is in very good condition. Looks like I'm pulling the carb when I get the chance. Might just need a rebuild.


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## 43128

if the rebuild doesnt work i recommend replacing the tecumseh with a predator engine


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## Zavie

43128 said:


> if the rebuild doesnt work i recommend replacing the tecumseh with a predator engine


I have been keeping that in the back of my mind. Carb is off I have to check model # and go from there. If predator engine is easy conversion then we
may have to go that route. If I can't make the rebuild stick then it's decision time. Take it into the small engine guy, he's going to charge me $40. However I do have an old Toro lawnmower he would want so we could barter. Or do I go with the Predator and set it and forget it?


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## UNDERTAKER

run the tecumsapart till it's dying day first.


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## detdrbuzzard

if all it needs is a carb you can find them new on ebay for less than $30, i paid $22 for the carb on my 521


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## jeepguy03

detdrbuzzard said:


> if all it needs is a carb you can find them new on ebay for less than $30, i paid $22 for the carb on my 521


x2.

I've had some Tecumsehs that I couldn't get to run right even after a few carb cleanings. Replaced them with new carbs off ebay for $24 and they ran like new. If the engine is in good shape otherwise its worth the $20-$30 for a carb.


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## Zavie

thanks guys, I've got the carb off and am going to get the engine #'s . I'll post pics and #'s hopefully today. Would love to keep same engine on it


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## Zavie

Carb Pics later #'s are HS50 67074 ser-42240. One thing I did not mention is that when it runs gas comes out the gas cap.


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## detdrbuzzard

i don't see a gas cap if thats what you are trying to show in pic #3
engine should be an h50


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## Kiss4aFrog

That's the gas cap upside down with a cork anti splash disc in there. See the threads on the inside ??


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## detdrbuzzard

Kiss4aFrog said:


> That's the gas cap upside down with a cork anti splash disc in there. See the threads on the inside ??


 it sure is, i missed that one
you can get a new cap if needed repair clinic.com and partstree.com has them. how is the fuel line, does it need changing


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## Kiss4aFrog

Or maybe a chunk of some open cell foam that wouldn't melt if exposed to gas between that disc and the cap itself.
Are you filling it all the way up ??


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## UNDERTAKER

I will leave those tecumsapart questions. to BROTHERS GRUNT AND FROG.


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## classiccat

Zavie said:


> thanks guys, I've got the carb off and am going to get the engine #'s . I'll post pics and #'s hopefully today. *Would love to keep same engine on it*


 ^^^ Good man!!!


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## Zavie

Here are some carb pictures. Do I do a rebuild? What parts usually come with the kit? What about the ebay carbs? If I went that route which one should I get?


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## Zavie

Removed float and needle valve. Shook carb body and I can hear emulsion tube rattling so that I assume is good. Valve seat toast. Carb is 433 4G30. Going to check locally for rebuild kit, who do you guys get this stuff from on the web?


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## classiccat

Zavie said:


> Removed float and needle valve. Shook carb body and I can hear emulsion tube rattling so that I assume is good. Valve seat toast. Carb is 433 4G30. Going to check locally for rebuild kit, who do you guys get this stuff from on the web?


Yes sir! they're all over the web. try partstree, amazon (search: tecumseh carb rebuild kit  ).

My last rebuild kit for a Tecumseh contained


welch plugs
inlet needle, spring and needle-seat
bowl o-ring gasket
air / mixture valve (also serves as the bowl nut)
bowl nut gasket
idle valve and o-ring
You'll also want to grab:


few intake-pipe to carb gaskets (2 or 3) while you're at it
intake-pipe to block gaskets
you may need a float if your kit does not contain one and yours has fluid sloshing around in it.


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## jtclays

Those carb numbers you gave are the scribed in body numbers. Tecumseh carb number should be 631704, full carb kit is tecumseh number 31840.
Lawn Mower Parts, Small Engine Parts & Much More! | PartsTree.com - Briggs, MTD, Toro, Cub Cadet, Husqvarna, Troy-bilt...

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=CA-631704&
dn=1117CA1117631704-CA

Check out this pictorial series.
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh Series 1 Carb 632107


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## Kiss4aFrog

Zavie said:


> Removed float and needle valve. Shook carb body and I can hear emulsion tube rattling so that I assume is good. Valve seat toast. Carb is 433 4G30. Going to check locally for rebuild kit, who do you guys get this stuff from on the web?


The emulsion tube is normally held in place with "O" rings so it shouldn't rattle.

Try Google: https://www.google.com/search?q=sum...en-US:official&channel=nts&q=snowblower+parts

OMB warehouse is another good one: Mini Bike & Go Kart Parts, Lawn Mower, Chain Saw and Outdoor Power Equipment | OMB Warehouse


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## Kiss4aFrog

If you like show and tell try youtube:


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## jtclays

That age carb will have a press fit brass emulsion tube, no o-rings and not removable (can be seen in the pictorial and described). If you hear a rattle, it may be the metering rod inside the closed side of the center stalk of the carb.. (In the pictorial where they show the bb-ball on the outside and then the cooresponding idle fuel pick up hole in the inside center stalk threads.) Not all had this. General rule is, if it has the metering rod, it's good to hear the rattle. (first pic has the area cut away for observation)


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## Zavie

Thanks guys! Yes, I read about the metering rod on another site so thanks for the nice explaining and pics about the rattle. Overall this carb is in excellent condition. I think my short running issue will be gone after the rebuild. I had a chance to chat with the Toro repair guy today at the hardwear store. He says to replace the gas cap also even though it is leaking I could still have a vacuum forming thus killing the engine. I'm sure I had the cap way too tight to try and prevent the fuel from leaking.


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## Zavie

Ordered a carb rebuild kit and new gas cap. If I decide to go with a new carb in the future would it be possible to go with a carb that has the primer bulb setup? Looks like I would just need a different heater box. Are the carbs for the 5hp Tec engines pretty much interchangeable?


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## UNDERTAKER

Zavie said:


> Ordered a carb rebuild kit and new gas cap. If I decide to go with a new carb in the future would it be possible to go with a carb that has the primer bulb setup? Looks like I would just need a different heater box. Are the carbs for the 5hp Tec engines pretty much interchangeable?


 why do you want a primer?????? that engine was never set to take one.


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## Zavie

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> why do you want a primer?????? that engine was never set to take one.


Don't want one if I don't need one. I want to look at all options and get some opinions on my thinking out loud thoughts. Hoping to find a high quality replacement carb if one is needed.


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## UNDERTAKER

Zavie said:


> Don't want one if I don't need one. I want to look at all options and get some opinions on my thinking out loud thoughts. Hoping to find a high quality replacement carb if one is needed.


you do not need it on that 1.


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## Zavie

Update as of 3:00pm today. Remember it would die after about a minute. It was also very hard to start.
Put on carb rebuild kit, new gov spring, new gas cap. Started right up! , Now it will run, but there is gas coming out the overflow hole in the side of the carb. I think it's running great for the fact I've done no adjusting to idle or main jet or the fact that I need to replace the spark plug. So, did I goof up the float needle seat install? Tips, help? I can see the light at the end of the tunnel here guys. It was fun running around the yard and the auger and drive work great but, HELP!! 
Don't want gas gushing!!


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## classiccat

Zavie said:


> Update as of 3:00pm today. Remember it would die after about a minute. It was also very hard to start.
> Put on carb rebuild kit, new gov spring, new gas cap. Started right up! , Now it will run, but there is gas coming out the overflow hole in the side of the carb. I think it's running great for the fact I've done no adjusting to idle or main jet or the fact that I need to replace the spark plug. So, did I goof up the float needle seat install? Tips, help? I can see the light at the end of the tunnel here guys. It was fun running around the yard and the auger and drive work great but, HELP!!
> Don't want gas gushing!!


 To be honest, I've never seen a carb with a fuel overflow...not saying that yours doesn't have one...just never heard of such a thing 

are you sure the needle is seating? 

I always test my carbs by flipping the carb, connecting a section of unused fuel line to the fuel intake and blowing in it. if you're able to blow into it with ease, either the float height is off, the seat isn't set properly or the needle is shot...or some/all of the above.


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## Zavie

Thanks for the reply Classiccat. I did some searching on the web last nite and found out that my early pre-primer bulb carb has a vent hole. I'm thinking that I did not set the float height correctly. I have no fuel leak problem when the machine is not running so I'm ruling out needle and seat so I'll go with your float height suggestion. Between my old guy stubbornness to wear bifocals and numb fingers after hand surgery I probably grabbed, and dropped, several different size drill bits to measure the height.


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## Zavie

Lower right corner arrow is pointing to vent in carb. This is where gas was coming from.


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## classiccat

Zavie said:


> Lower right corner arrow is pointing to vent in carb. This is where gas was coming from.


 I believe that's the carb's atmospheric vent...entrance...not an exit


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## classiccat

float condition (_make sure it's not full of fuel_) and float height (_parallel...or slightly above parallel with the carb body when upside down_) would be the 1st 2 things that I'd check. There's even a preference for the direction the tip of the needle spring points.

also check to see if the welch plug is still there on the underside of the carb (_with the float bowl removed_)...if I'm not mistaken, this is to keep gas from splashing out of the vent hole.


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## Zavie

Got carb off and checked needle and seat with air pressure, A-OK. However when I measured float height I'm off. Here is the gap with the 13/64" drill bit, per donyboy Tecumseh rebuild video. Guess I've got some float adjusting to do.


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## Zavie

Well I decided to go the other way. I thought if I went 13/64" it would be letting in more fuel so I went 15/64" and WOW it runs great + no more fuel leaking!
Had to hide it away to keep my son and everyone else surprised so I couldn't
super fine tune it but I'm stoked! Here are some beauty pics. Thanks again, would not have even tried this without all the great help.


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## classiccat

That's Awesome Zavie! Glad you stayed with it!! Bring-on the white-stuff!!!


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## UNDERTAKER

Zavie said:


> Well I decided to go the other way. I thought if I went 13/64" it would be letting in more fuel so I went 15/64" and WOW it runs great + no more fuel leaking!
> Had to hide it away to keep my son and everyone else surprised so I couldn't
> super fine tune it but I'm stoked! Here are some beauty pics. Thanks again, would not have even tried this without all the great help.


 I would get some new skids for it. those look like they have seen better days.


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## Zavie

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> I would get some new skids for it. those look like they have seen better days.


Found a nice gently used set and ordered them today.


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## Zavie

Got my gently used skids. Very happy, lots of meat left on 'em. Just need the white stuff to try this new vintage out.


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## db9938

You can always have your local fab shop build a beed bed on them to extend the life of them. And if you have a vocational school near by, with a welding program, it could be a project.


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