# Used 12527HV...what parts to possibly replace before the snow flies



## Darkimag22 (4 mo ago)

Just purchased a used 12527HV. This is my first blower and I know very little about them. I am going to replace both the drive and impeller belts as they both look to be factory but is there anything else I should be looking at, checking, replacing (will be changing the oil as well as draining the fuel tank and replacing with some ethanol free 91 octane)? I did notice there is some front/back, side to side play in the auger assembly. Is this normal? I would rather wrench on it now before winter arrives. Thanks!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*I would yank those wheels and clean and grease those Axles up. There should be some side play in those augers. Check the gear box for the proper lube also. Let us know the score on it all. ALOHA!!!







*


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## Darkimag22 (4 mo ago)

I'll add that to my list. Have both belts on order and should arrive next week sometime. Is the gear box lube something I should replace (like I mentioned before I don't think much has been done to the blower)? Threw a new spark plug in since I am 99.99% positive it was the plug installed at the dealer/factory.


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## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

Rather than start spending money on parts you may not need to replace have someone who's familiar with snowblowers inspect it. A friend, a shop, etc.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

That thing looks hardly used .... I would just keep the new belts as spares, and hang on to that plug as well, as I am sure it is fine, and leave the gas, just add new treated gas to it. I would change the oil and put in a Full Synthetic 5W30 ... as mentioned, pull the wheel pins, slide off the wheels and put some NeverSeize on the axles.... Also, pull the auger shear pins, lube and spin the augers as well. Lube and grease any other moving parts as well. Also download the manual for future assistance.


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## Darkimag22 (4 mo ago)

Thanks for the input guys. I ended up changing both belts since the drive belt was slipping bad and the auger belt was cracked and worn. Pulled the fuel tank and carb because I could see debris in the tank. The fuel tank filter did its job luckily. Gave the carb a good cleaning and made sure the jets were not clogged. The fuel line and primer line were being help together with electricians tape so that was replaced as well. New spark plug, full syn 5w30, 91 octane fuel (ethanol free), lubed the drive chain/axle with low temp lithium grease...fingers crossed I'm ready for the white stuff.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

There is a rubber drive wheel in the bottom housing that drives against the lower drive pulley. I would consider tipping it up into the service position [watch for fuel running out if your tank is full] and removing the bottom housing cover and having a look inside. Clean the lower pulley surface with a brake or carb cleaner and clean and inspect the rubber drive wheel for wear. While you are in there check any gears, bushings or chains for lubrication but go easy. too much lube can cause problems.


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## Darkimag22 (4 mo ago)

deezlfan said:


> There is a rubber drive wheel in the bottom housing that drives against the lower drive pulley. I would consider tipping it up into the service position [watch for fuel running out if your tank is full] and removing the bottom housing cover and having a look inside. Clean the lower pulley surface with a brake or carb cleaner and clean and inspect the rubber drive wheel for wear. While you are in there check any gears, bushings or chains for lubrication but go easy. too much lube can cause problems.


Yah I did all that already. I like to know how things work...makes it easier to troubleshoot if I have any issues.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

I would replace those steel skid shoes for some nice composite ones. Glide better on driveway and no rust staining either.


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