# Craftsman Drift Breaker 536.882702 5289 Restoration 10 hp 32" 2nd Generation



## sock-feet

As promised here is the restoration of my Drift Breaker 536.882702. Unfortunately this one is a little on the rusty side.

I bought this guy from a small engine repair person just east of Pittsburgh Penn and had it shipped by Fastenal to Danbury, Ct. I have deconstructed it and have ordered all parts that I think I will need. The plan is to replace all known bad parts and try it out-then tear it all apart and paint it.

Parts ordered:
Flange bearing 3/4 inch for the axle UCF 204-12 Ebay
Flange bearing 1 inch for the auger SARFT205-16 1" Ebay
B&S Cable for the Chute 78059MA
1630RS Bearing for the auger drive shaft.
2 sprockets Martin brand 41BS14 1 Ebay for the 3rd stage drive chain. Mine are shot and I cut the welds and removed them from the auger and top drift breaker.
NOS Piston rings 34866A 
Head gasket
Engine side cover gasket

I have inspected the Transmission mounts and they look great and are tight.

I the auger tines are rusted to the front gear case shafts and I can't get them apart. I don't want to heat them because I don't want to burn the seals in the gear case. I have penetrating oil on them now. Any recommendations for getting them apart is welcome.

The Bearing for the Auger drive shaft had seized and screwed up the drive shaft which I will have to Mig weld and file down back to 3/4"


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## Sid

If those augers are like my Sears/Murray, the shafts on the gearbox, they are stubs about 4 or 5" long. You can tap them all around as much as you can with a small hammer enough to slightly expand them a bit to loosen them enough to start working them off, along with the penetrating oil or that other concoction, transmission fluid and I think acetone. That might help. 
Sid


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## classiccat

Welcome sockfeet!

Unfortunately I'm afraid you're going to need alot of heat on those auger rakes...and patience.

I've had luck going back-and-forth using heat/penetrant (I like acetone + ATF) and a homemade electrolysis tank.

You'll then need to decide if you're going to push (shot press) or pull (puller) on the auger shafts...maybe both.

It looks like someone has already taken a crack at trying to remove them:


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## cranman

Wow...that is an ambitious project!..If it were me....I'd paint while I was restoring and assemble it only once.......come on...have some self confidence!


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## classiccat

Sid said:


> If those augers are like my Sears/Murray, the shafts on the gearbox, they are stubs about 4 or 5" long. You can tap them all around as much as you can with a small hammer enough to slightly expand them a bit to loosen them enough to start working them off, along with the penetrating oil or that other concoction, transmission fluid and I think acetone. That might help.
> Sid


Good call Sid! That is indeed a stub-axle. I guess the good news is that there's less axle inside of the rake.


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## sock-feet

I get that theory of restoring but I want to feel it out and see if the engine is even worth bothering with. If the engine is even slightly suspect, I am going to put a new one on. The Sprockets are going to be the challenge as well as the auger tines.

I am on the hunt for another 10 Hp 32" drift breaker for a friend as well. Please let me know if you see any more of these out there. I don't have any problem shipping them distances. The new snow blowers are such garbage, I don't care if this takes me 100 hours and $1000 to restore.


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## sock-feet

classiccat said:


> Welcome sockfeet!
> 
> Unfortunately I'm afraid you're going to need alot of heat on those auger rakes...and patience.
> 
> I've had luck going back-and-forth using heat/penetrant (I like acetone + ATF) and a homemade electrolysis tank.
> 
> You'll then need to decide if you're going to push (shot press) or pull (puller) on the auger shafts...maybe both.
> 
> It looks like someone has already taken a crack at trying to remove them:


There was a bolt in where the shear pin would go and it broke when I tried to get it out. I have since drilled it out. I have used the map gas to heat up the auger and sprayed oil every where.


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## HCBPH

I've restored a 536.882700 blower that was in really sad condition when I got it in the past. It's a sound structure, very well built machine but totally abused when I got it. I documented what I did to disassemble it and rebuild it, it was one really sad case when I bought it. In fact I bought it for the electric starter and planned to part it out, but decided to rebuild it instead. There was virtually no area in this blower or engine that I didn't touch, everything was in really sad (rusty or broken) state when I got it but it turned out well in the end. Even the engine was salvageable when I got done, and it's unbelievable how bad it looked when I initially got it.

The last digit of the model number apparently depends on whether the unit came with an electric starter or not when purchased from what I can tell.

I do have a doc on the machine as I went through it if you're interested in a copy along with a doc on what I do to get auger rakes that are rusted onto the auger shaft off. I have them both in pdf and doc format (the machine rebuild along with one on getting rusted auger rakes off). If interested, send me a pm with your email address and I can send you a copy of each of them if interested. 

I have to admit getting the auger rakes off can be a problem. typically I use a combination of penetrant, heat and pressure to get them loose. I also made some special tools to help shock them and hopefully break the rust loose between the rakes and the shaft. One thing I do is once they're off, clean and paint the shaft then coat them with anti-seize to help reduce the chance of them rusting solid again (this model blower does have a full width auger shaft in it).


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## HCBPH

Found some pictures of a auger assembly where the rakes were rusted on solid. Like I said I typically use penetrant, heat & pressure to get them off. You have to be careful using the one tool I made to help shock them loose. Here's a brief set of pictures that show some of the various steps I use. Which are used depends on the conditions encountered so there's more than used in every situation.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> I've restored a 536.882700 blower that was in really sad condition when I got it in the past. It's a sound structure, very well built machine but totally abused when I got it. I documented what I did to disassemble it and rebuild it, it was one really sad case when I bought it. In fact I bought it for the electric starter and planned to part it out, but decided to rebuild it instead. There was virtually no area in this blower or engine that I didn't touch, everything was in really sad (rusty or broken) state when I got it but it turned out well in the end. Even the engine was salvageable when I got done, and it's unbelievable how bad it looked when I initially got it.
> 
> The last digit of the model number apparently depends on whether the unit came with an electric starter or not when purchased from what I can tell.
> 
> I do have a doc on the machine as I went through it if you're interested in a copy along with a doc on what I do to get auger rakes that are rusted onto the auger shaft off. I have them both in pdf and doc format (the machine rebuild along with one on getting rusted auger rakes off). If interested, send me a pm with your email address and I can send you a copy of each of them if interested.
> 
> I have to admit getting the auger rakes off can be a problem. typically I use a combination of penetrant, heat and pressure to get them loose. I also made some special tools to help shock them and hopefully break the rust loose between the rakes and the shaft. One thing I do is once they're off, clean and paint the shaft then coat them with anti-seize to help reduce the chance of them rusting solid again (this model blower does have a full width auger shaft in it).



I have been studying your posts of this unit and i was hoping you would ad your $.02. I wish I could have found one in better condition and not as rusty.
I am going to try your some of your methods for separating the Rakes.


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## sock-feet

sock-feet said:


> I have been studying your posts of this unit and i was hoping you would ad your $.02. I wish I could have found one in better condition and not as rusty.
> I am going to try your some of your methods for separating the Rakes.


I was wondering why the last number is a 2. This one has a 110 electric starter. Could the last digit be the year it was made. Maybe 1982? Does anyone know how they came up with the model numbers?


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## HCBPH

Take a good look at the before picture of the one I did, yours looks to be in a whole lot better condition than mine was. I had dents in the auger housing I took out, a considerable amount of surface rust, damaged sprockets, a motor whose carb and internals were rusted beyond belief. Thing was with some serious planning for it to come together. I even had to pull the commutator out of the engine so there was that retiming too. Needless to say it all came together, not quick but worked very well by the time I got done. Even split the auger/drive controls from a single to dual controls.

That's why I offered the doc, hopefully there's a lot of good stuff that might be helpful.


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> I was wondering why the last number is a 2. This one has a 110 electric starter. Could the last digit be the year it was made. Maybe 1982? Does anyone know how they came up with the model numbers?


Year mfg - nope. I happened to find a couple of manuals on the same base model machine, plus having bought a couple like that too. 2d digit was 2 if they had an electric starter on them. Easy to add an electric starter so it wasn't a big deal if you can find one at an affordable price.

Have not come up anything logical on if there's some hidden pattern to model numbers. Only thing is the first 3 digits (536) designates it was made by Murray, rest of it - who knows. There are large frame blowers with lower and with higher model numbers than the 4-5 hp small frame ones.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Take a good look at the before picture of the one I did, yours looks to be in a whole lot better condition than mine was. I had dents in the auger housing I took out, a considerable amount of surface rust, damaged sprockets, a motor whose carb and internals were rusted beyond belief. Thing was with some serious planning for it to come together. I even had to pull the commutator out of the engine so there was that retiming too. Needless to say it all came together, not quick but worked very well by the time I got done. Even split the auger/drive controls from a single to dual controls.
> 
> That's why I offered the doc, hopefully there's a lot of good stuff that might be helpful.


Is the doc on line or could you email it. I would love to see it all. I really don't think that I am going to get the auger apart without ruining seals. I wish the shaft was hollow all of the way. I wouldn't even mind talking on the phone. I might want to split the drive too. This certainly will take hours upon hours .


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> Is the doc on line or could you email it. I would love to see it all. I really don't think that I am going to get the auger apart without ruining seals. I wish the shaft was hollow all of the way. I wouldn't even mind talking on the phone. I might want to split the drive too. This certainly will take hours upon hours .


Don't worry about the seals, they are cheap available parts. You just press them in from the outside, the one on the impeller shaft has to be pressed in after the 2 halves are bolted back together. Biggest issue you will encounter in the auger case is aligning the wedge cutout on the bushings correctly in the case. You have a possible 4 bushings to deal with and 3 seals along with the gasket between the 2 halves of the case. It's not rocket science, just take it slow and easy and you'll get through it.

The auger doc is on a small frame blower while yours is a large frame, but I don't remember if that has a 1" or 3/4" shaft. Just make sure you get the right size bushings and seals for yours.

Paul


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## sock-feet

I ordered these weld on sprockets and that should work for the 3rd stage auger:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...V14B-40-Pitch-14-Tooth-Sprocket-1-1979-14.axd


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## sock-feet

sock-feet said:


> I ordered these weld on sprockets and that should work for the 3rd stage auger:
> 
> https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...V14B-40-Pitch-14-Tooth-Sprocket-1-1979-14.axd


I and switching to #40 chain and sprockets and I am using Stainless steel roller chain.


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## jsup

Great project. Can't wait to see the final result.


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## HCBPH

Craig


Sent you a copy of the manual in pdf format today.
Don't lose faith, that machine is a beast when it's done, there are few that can keep up with it and the Tecumseh transmission is just gravy on it.


Paul


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## toroused

You stated earlier about looking for a 10 HP Driftbreaker for a friend. While this is not a 10 HP, there is none-the-less an 8 HP Driftbreaker up in Worcester for $50 if you are interested - the neighborhood where it is located is fine. It's been sitting on Craigslist forever so you probably can get it for $30....

Link: https://worcester.craigslist.org/grd/d/sears-snowblower/6391664950.html

There's a also a 4-speed version of the machine that you are restoring in nearby Manchester, Conn. This one's pricey at $200 and is going nowhere fast. Perhaps you might be interested in this one for short money as a parts machine for your current restoration....

Link #2: https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/d/snowblower-sears-craftsman/6434012528.html


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## classiccat

toroused said:


> There's a also a 4-speed version of the machine that you are restoring in nearby Manchester, Conn. This one's pricey at $200 and is going nowhere fast. Perhaps you might be interested in this one for short money as a parts machine for your current restoration....
> 
> Link #2: https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/d/snowblower-sears-craftsman/6434012528.html


I could be wrong but that looks to be at most a 7hp... (not a medium-frame block).


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## sock-feet

The new bearings are installed on the Auger and the Auger driveshaft. The flange bearings for the axle that I bought from ebay are self aligning. I looked at the bearing and it wasn't true to the flange and messaged the place where I bought them-this is their reply: 

"Hello sock-feet!
This sounds like you are having an issue with our self alignment feature.
If the bearing is crooked for example when you lay it on a flat table, it is not flat. Please don't worry. This is our self-alignment feature. These bearing are meant to have some play in them. When you mount them, just use the shaft to rotate the bearing into proper position, or if it is not out of alignment by much, the bearing will correct their own alignment once they begin to rotate. Because if the bearings were not aligned properly and spinning at high RPMs then sure disaster would happen. So our self-alignment feature is a way to prevent this from happening.
Thanks!"

I certainly won't give them feedback on the bearings until I use them for sure. I will post if they are garbage when I get them bolted in. 

I also pressed out the bushings in the dual sprocket assy and drilled and tapped a Zerk fitting for future greasing. The small sprocket on the assy looked like it started to get chewed up by the chain because of the slop in the bushings. I think it should be fine once I get the new Bushings in.

Additional parts ordered:

Oilite Bronze bushings (2) 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD 1" long for dual sprocket assy
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162542600934

#40 SS roller chain 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291988750010

Carb rebuild Kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/331839218864

Weld on #40 14 teeth sprockets 
40V14B 40 Pitch 14 Tooth Sprocket | Weld-On Sprockets | Sprockets | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com

I went a little nuts and bought the SS auger driveshaft Bearing 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/360798383615


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## sock-feet

toroused said:


> You stated earlier about looking for a 10 HP Driftbreaker for a friend. While this is not a 10 HP, there is none-the-less an 8 HP Driftbreaker up in Worcester for $50 if you are interested - the neighborhood where it is located is fine. It's been sitting on Craigslist forever so you probably can get it for $30....
> 
> Link: https://worcester.craigslist.org/grd/d/sears-snowblower/6391664950.html
> 
> There's a also a 4-speed version of the machine that you are restoring in nearby Manchester, Conn. This one's pricey at $200 and is going nowhere fast. Perhaps you might be interested in this one for short money as a parts machine for your current restoration....
> 
> Link #2: https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/d/snowblower-sears-craftsman/6434012528.html


Thanks for the leads. I told a friend of mine about what I am doing and he is giving me a 10hp 32 track drive. I am not sure if any of the parts are interchangeable. We will see.


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## HCBPH

Craig


I don't think you're going to be using many parts if any from that track unit on yours. From what I can tell it looks to be a friction disc drive unit (instead of the transmission unit you have) and I believe that one has a short auger shaft with stubs in the ends of the auger rakes to it into the bushings on the end of the housing. Free is free. If the motor is good or the tracks are solid, that's worth something at a minimum. You may want to read the thread again on converting to flange bearings, the part on the auger. I had to spin the bearings in the mount around so the set screw was on the inside of the auger assembly to get a good bite on the auger shaft. I could not use the snap rings on the end of the shaft, the shaft end was hidden in the bearing. Without the bearing spin in the mount, the setscrew on the bearings was beyond the end of the auger shaft on mine. From those 2 earlier machines noted, parts from them would likely fit yours. In fact the 2 stage auger housing is similar (if not identical) to the one I swapped onto the Searsasaurus in place of the 32" 3 stage that came on it. Other than rebuilding/replacing the bushings with bearings, some straightening and getting the auger rakes off the shaft, I painted it and bolted it onto the tractor unit unmodified. You can usually find engineless parts machines like the 2d one for around free-$50 around here when available.


Paul


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Craig
> 
> 
> I don't think you're going to be using many parts if any from that track unit on yours. From what I can tell it looks to be a friction disc drive unit (instead of the transmission unit you have) and I believe that one has a short auger shaft with stubs in the ends of the auger rakes to it into the bushings on the end of the housing. Free is free. If the motor is good or the tracks are solid, that's worth something at a minimum. You may want to read the thread again on converting to flange bearings, the part on the auger. I had to spin the bearings in the mount around so the set screw was on the inside of the auger assembly to get a good bite on the auger shaft. I could not use the snap rings on the end of the shaft, the shaft end was hidden in the bearing. Without the bearing spin in the mount, the setscrew on the bearings was beyond the end of the auger shaft on mine. From those 2 earlier machines noted, parts from them would likely fit yours. In fact the 2 stage auger housing is similar (if not identical) to the one I swapped onto the Searsasaurus in place of the 32" 3 stage that came on it. Other than rebuilding/replacing the bushings with bearings, some straightening and getting the auger rakes off the shaft, I painted it and bolted it onto the tractor unit unmodified. You can usually find engineless parts machines like the 2d one for around free-$50 around here when available.
> 
> 
> Paul


I must pay more attn to details when reading and pay homage to the god of Drift Breakers. I went back to your sticky thread and now understand. I will be spinning the bearing around in the flange. Good call on that!!!!!


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## Dauntae

classiccat said:


> I could be wrong but that looks to be at most a 7hp... (not a medium-frame block).


7HP Has a flat carb box, the angled ones start on the 8hp and up. Here is a blower with a 7hp, OH It looked different in the pic but yes you are right that Is a 7hp, looked angled down on first glance.


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## classiccat

Dauntae said:


> 7HP Has a flat carb box, the angled ones start on the 8hp and up. Here is a blower with a 7hp, OH It looked different in the pic but yes you are right that Is a 7hp, looked angled down on first glance.


Yep, the elevated fuel-tank is another clue. *M*edium frame tec engines (i.e.H*M*80), the fuel tank is nearly flush with the top of the head.


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## sock-feet

Well waiting for parts is a bummer. I need the bushings for the Dual sprocket assy to put it back together.

I took some time to put the axle bearings in. I mocked it up so I could use washers for the spacing and sprocket alignment. I used 1/2 washers and drilled them to 3/4" with my drill pres. I also put a couple of washers on the counter shaft bolts to take out the play. 

Paul, 

I took a look at the flange bearings and found out they are not like a typical bearing. The outer race OD is like sphere and swivels in the flange so I can't spin the bearing around. 


After looking at the bearing and shaft, i think that the auger shaft is out far enough to be over the center of the bearing. I made some washers to space it out too. If I have to, I will shave off the bottom of the flange bearing to bring it in more. 

I'm never happy unless I have some sort of project in the garage.

I'm not sure how many pics I can post, but I will post as much as possible.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Craig
> 
> 
> I don't think you're going to be using many parts if any from that track unit on yours. From what I can tell it looks to be a friction disc drive unit (instead of the transmission unit you have) and I believe that one has a short auger shaft with stubs in the ends of the auger rakes to it into the bushings on the end of the housing. Free is free. If the motor is good or the tracks are solid, that's worth something at a minimum. You may want to read the thread again on converting to flange bearings, the part on the auger. I had to spin the bearings in the mount around so the set screw was on the inside of the auger assembly to get a good bite on the auger shaft. I could not use the snap rings on the end of the shaft, the shaft end was hidden in the bearing. Without the bearing spin in the mount, the setscrew on the bearings was beyond the end of the auger shaft on mine. From those 2 earlier machines noted, parts from them would likely fit yours. In fact the 2 stage auger housing is similar (if not identical) to the one I swapped onto the Searsasaurus in place of the 32" 3 stage that came on it. Other than rebuilding/replacing the bushings with bearings, some straightening and getting the auger rakes off the shaft, I painted it and bolted it onto the tractor unit unmodified. You can usually find engineless parts machines like the 2d one for around free-$50 around here when available.
> 
> 
> Paul


I might take a look at the track machine and see if it is salvageable. Maybe convert to tires and give it to my friend.


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## cranman

I just pulled the tracks off of a 1032 Track machine and put Noma wheels and tires on it...easy peasy...except the part of pulling the frozen tracks off......


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## toroused

Since you have the old school Tecumseh gear drive transmission already out there on the table, were you also planning on opening up the transmission case and cleaning out the factory supplied grease in the casing?


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## sock-feet

cranman said:


> I just pulled the tracks off of a 1032 Track machine and put Noma wheels and tires on it...easy peasy...except the part of pulling the frozen tracks off......


I'm not sure if it was a thread you started, but I read that someone removed the tracks. Hopefully I will get it today.


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## sock-feet

toroused said:


> Since you have the old school Tecumseh gear drive transmission already out there on the table, were you also planning on opening up the transmission case and cleaning out the factory supplied grease in the casing?


I'm not going to change the grease in the trans this round. I am going to fabricate and replace all necessary parts and put it back together. I will change the Grease when I tear it down to sandblast and paint it. I wish there was a place to buy the original stickers.


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## scrappy

sock-feet said:


> I'm not going to change the grease in the trans this round. I am going to fabricate and replace all necessary parts and put it back together. I will change the Grease when I tear it down to sandblast and paint it. I wish there was a place to buy the original stickers.


Pretty sure this place can make decals if you supply pictures.

Reproduction Lawn Mower Decals - Ariens - Page 1 - Vintage Reproductions


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## HCBPH

scrappy said:


> Pretty sure this place can make decals if you supply pictures.
> 
> Reproduction Lawn Mower Decals - Ariens - Page 1 - Vintage Reproductions



I've also seen where people have made water transfer decals for old woodworking equipment. Not sure how they'd hold up under snowblower conditions, but worth a look see if you really want oem style decals.


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## sock-feet

I found a crack in the front housing that I will need to weld up. 

I also have to weld the chute holes that are worn out as well as the sprockets on the auger. I am probably going to put a couple of Zerk grease fittings on the upper auger too.

I cleaned the carb with my Harbor freight Ultra sonic cleaner. I put the Carb and Parts in a glass jar with carb cleaner and heat the water up. This does an unbelievable job at cleaning. I bought this when I was flipping alot of old Japanese 2 stroke Street bikes. The carb kit is coming today and I am going to try using a flange bearing on the Auger drive shaft.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272284124583


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## HCBPH

That crack in the housing doesn't look too bad, I think even a poor welder like me could weld it up. As far as the chute goes, I've swapped chutes between various comparable 7-10 hp units of the same era, they're all interchangeable. About the only thing would be you'd lose the cable adjustment unless you moved that from the current one to a replacement.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> That crack in the housing doesn't look too bad, I think even a poor welder like me could weld it up. As far as the chute goes, I've swapped chutes between various comparable 7-10 hp units of the same era, they're all interchangeable. About the only thing would be you'd lose the cable adjustment unless you moved that from the current one to a replacement.


I am pretty good at Mig welding and have the whole set up. The crack will be easy to weld. I think I can tack weld the missing metal between the holes in the chute. I don't like welding in my garage because it is under the bedrooms of the house and it is too cold outside to weld all of the pieces. I think that slow the project a little as it is -10 wind chill today.

I don't think that the flange bearing that I bought for the Auger is going to work. There isn't enough room between the Pulley and the housing.


I can't believe how beefy this blower is compared to my crappy 2005 craftsman blower.


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## HCBPH

Don't bother trying to replace the auger bearing with a flange bearing. If it's bad, just replace the bearing in the housing. I covered that in the auger rakes rusted onto the shaft doc.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Don't bother trying to replace the auger bearing with a flange bearing. If it's bad, just replace the bearing in the housing. I covered that in the auger rakes rusted onto the shaft doc.


I have both and will be using the replacement bearing.


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## sock-feet

More progress.

Welding and upgrades. 

I added two more bolts on the back transmission mount to the body and bridged the transmission bolts with thick sheet metal. 

The restoration on the chute came out good and the stainless roller chain give the business end a little bit of bling.

Zerk fittings in the upper auger and a bolt to cap off the hole used for tightening the bolts.

The Input shaft of the Transmission had an external thrust washer and it was broken for some reason. I fabricated one out of a stainless washer.


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## sock-feet

I got alot done. 

Found a problem with the connecting bracket for the auger and drive actuator. It was broken and will need welding. Here are some pics of beast almost complete. 

I won't be able to paint until the spring because I cant paint in my garage. I will still putter around with it though. I am waiting on two last parts to finish it up. So far so good.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I added a grease zerk to mine on that gear cluster. Just liked the idea of being able to give it a shot of grease once in a while. Had a Jacobson with the same setup that ate the bushing and then the no longer available shaft. Ended up having to make one.


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## sock-feet

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I added a grease zerk to mine on that gear cluster. Just liked the idea of being able to give it a shot of grease once in a while. Had a Jacobson with the same setup that ate the bushing and then the no longer available shaft. Ended up having to make one.


That is exactly what I did to mine. Cool The new bushings made a huge difference there isn't any play.


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## sock-feet

I am trying to do some research on paint. I have read that the Valspar with the hardener works good. Any advise on primer and paint? 

I never seemed to have much luck with the Rustolium type rattle can paint. 

Has anyone used truck bed liner spray on the inside of the chute and the Auger area?


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> I am trying to do some research on paint. I have read that the Valspar with the hardener works good. Any advise on primer and paint?
> 
> I never seemed to have much luck with the Rustolium type rattle can paint.
> 
> Has anyone used truck bed liner spray on the inside of the chute and the Auger area?



I looked into bed liner at one time, didn't do it. I think it was like rhino liner or something similar, thing was it left a fairly rough surface from what I could tell. Now I have not done this either but plan to if I ever get around to redoing the Searsasaurus to use some epoxy paint. With good prep, I expect that would last a lifetime. Pretty much impervious to almost everything from what I've seen.
Big thing is watch the fumes, some can be deadly in confined areas.


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## cranman

I only use Rustoleum.....got to be in a heated area, clean


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## HCBPH

One more suggestion to anyone with a blower that has a Tecumseh transmission. The intermediate shaft that the transmission bolts onto is held in the frame with 2 shoulder bolts. If either comes loose the shaft will drop and that's how the typical damage with a jammed chain occurs. Once you assemble the unit and that shaft is in, I drill a small hole on either side in the chassis close to the flats on the shoulder bolts. Thread them and put small screws in them to prevent the shoulder bolts from rotating loose. I do that with each machine I rebuild, saves a lot of potential damage in the future.

Here's an old picture that shows the shoulder bolts on the ends of that shaft mentioned.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> One more suggestion to anyone with a blower that has a Tecumseh transmission. The intermediate shaft that the transmission bolts onto is held in the frame with 2 shoulder bolts. If either comes loose the shaft will drop and that's how the typical damage with a jammed chain occurs. Once you assemble the unit and that shaft is in, I drill a small hole on either side in the chassis close to the flats on the shoulder bolts. Thread them and put small screws in them to prevent the shoulder bolts from rotating loose. I do that with each machine I rebuild, saves a lot of potential damage in the future.
> 
> Here's an old picture that shows the shoulder bolts on the ends of that shaft mentioned.


Good idea. I made sure the factory star lock washers stayed in there and added a couple of washers on the outside to take out some of the play it had on the sprocket side. The shank on the bolt is deep enough to grab the hole. I am going to take your suggestion and drill and tap a screw but I think I will drill it on the bottom to make sure that the shaft cant ever drop. I also added another bolt and nut on the trans mount to chassis so it couldn't twist because it only uses one bolt.

I finished everything else and will post some more pics. I would love to start to paint it but that will have to wait until the spring.


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## sock-feet

cranman said:


> I only use Rustoleum.....got to be in a heated area, clean


Do you use clear coat over the color coat? Which rustoleum? I see there is 2X and Enamel and clear coat.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> I looked into bed liner at one time, didn't do it. I think it was like rhino liner or something similar, thing was it left a fairly rough surface from what I could tell. Now I have not done this either but plan to if I ever get around to redoing the Searsasaurus to use some epoxy paint. With good prep, I expect that would last a lifetime. Pretty much impervious to almost everything from what I've seen.
> Big thing is watch the fumes, some can be deadly in confined areas.


Where would I get the Epoxy paint? I have a local parts store that has a auto paint department-would they have that? How much do you think you would need to paint the entire chassis? What primer would you use if any? Can you get the epoxy in rattle cans or does it have to be sprayed? Can you get the epoxy in the same color as the original gray? Am I asking too many questions? I have a spray gun I bough a long time ago, but never used it. I think it is an air gun that sprays thicker paints.


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## cranman

I use the regular rustoleum cans.....I don't like the 2x cans as well. I've gotten great matches on color....Allis Chalmers orange for Ariens ...there is a special color for John Deere yellow and green, as well as Husqvarna orange. Mettalic matte nickel for Craftsman grey...Dark Hunter Green for Craftsman green....Sunset ( or is it Sunrise) red for MTD.....I strip with Citris strip from Walmart, clean with paint thinner, prime with rustoleum, and wait 24 hours to coat..or recoat. Inside the bucket I brush straight from the can....same with augers and wheels......


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## sock-feet

Let me know what you all think.

My plans are to use a Dewalt rough wire wheel on my variable speed angle grinder and wire wheel the Chassis in separate pieces.

Since the blower is pretty rusty, I am going to use a medium grit sandpaper grinding disk to grind the heavy rust areas as deep as possible.

Once I get all of the pieces down to bare metal I will use degreaser and acetone to clean.

I haven't chosen which brand primer yet but, I am sure I am going to use a Zinc Chromate primer. I will probably use either the Seymour Cold Galvanized Primer-Zinc Rich or the Moeller Zinc Chromate Primer

COLD GALV PRIMER - ZINC RICH - Seymour of Sycamore

https://www.amazon.com/MOELLER-MFG-COMPANY-INC-CHROMATE/dp/B000N8LR24/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515083226&sr=8-1&keywords=moeller+zinc+chromate+primer

The paint I am going to use is Seymour MRO Enamel Industrial for the body and Wheels in 620-1416 Ansi - 61 Gray

The Black Parts are going to be the Seymore MRO Enamel Industrial in 620 - 1415 Gloss Black

MRO® INDUSTRIAL ENAMEL - Seymour of Sycamore

I haven't figured out what I am going to do with the handle bars yet as they are nasty rusty Chrome. Maybe some kind of chrome paint or just same Gray or black color. I probably will Prime with Zinc primer and paint Black.


----------



## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> Where would I get the Epoxy paint? I have a local parts store that has a auto paint department-would they have that? How much do you think you would need to paint the entire chassis? What primer would you use if any? Can you get the epoxy in rattle cans or does it have to be sprayed? Can you get the epoxy in the same color as the original gray? Am I asking too many questions? I have a spray gun I bough a long time ago, but never used it. I think it is an air gun that sprays thicker paints.


 
Talk to your local painters, especially those that deal with performance cars. Most if not all epoxy paints are 2 part, meaning you have to mix them prior to painting and they have a short pot life, no rattle cans here. One I remember growing up was called Imron (or close to that) that I'd seen a race car painted in. Guy had lost one of his sponsors and had that info painted on the car over top of the Imron. I watched him take a rag and soak it in Nitromethane (read racing fuel) and wiped the old sponsor info right off the side of the car. It took all that info off (which wasn't in Imron) and didn't even take the shine off the underlying Imron paint. It's really tough stuff, but the fumes are toxic while applying it from what I remember. It's also a bear to clean up guns etc after applying it.


Now another possibility is some of the garage floor coating materials kits. I've not used one but a place I used to work sold the materials or could arrange to have it put down. It was 2 part and put down with a roller, granules were scattered later if you wanted a non-slick surface otherwise it was much like walking on ice. This was designed to put down on concrete so I don't know how it would work on metal, but I think I've seen kits in building supply places before.


Big thing I can't stress more is ventilation. That place I worked for that sold the concrete stuff had crews that would go out and apply it and they were trained to work with the stuff. One group almost died from it. Doing a church basement and even with a bunch of fans moving air in and out of it, got overcome by the fumes and were hospitalized because of it. I heard they darn near died from it, they were lucky someone came down to check when the fumes got so bad in the sanctuary area. After that every person applying the stuff had to use a suitable respirator any time they were even close to the stuff other than when it was in the sealed cans.


In that doc on the Driftbuster rebuild I did, there's info on what I tried on the rusty handlebars - what worked and didn't. On removing surface rust, there also info on abrasive blasting that worked pretty good. Ground up coal slag (Northern Tools) does a pretty good job getting all the surface rust and paint off the various parts. Just don't hit anything you don't want the finish damaged on (like chrome, etc.)


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Talk to your local painters, especially those that deal with performance cars. Most if not all epoxy paints are 2 part, meaning you have to mix them prior to painting and they have a short pot life, no rattle cans here. One I remember growing up was called Imron (or close to that) that I'd seen a race car painted in. Guy had lost one of his sponsors and had that info painted on the car over top of the Imron. I watched him take a rag and soak it in Nitromethane (read racing fuel) and wiped the old sponsor info right off the side of the car. It took all that info off (which wasn't in Imron) and didn't even take the shine off the underlying Imron paint. It's really tough stuff, but the fumes are toxic while applying it from what I remember. It's also a bear to clean up guns etc after applying it.
> 
> 
> Now another possibility is some of the garage floor coating materials kits. I've not used one but a place I used to work sold the materials or could arrange to have it put down. It was 2 part and put down with a roller, granules were scattered later if you wanted a non-slick surface otherwise it was much like walking on ice. This was designed to put down on concrete so I don't know how it would work on metal, but I think I've seen kits in building supply places before.
> 
> 
> Big thing I can't stress more is ventilation. That place I worked for that sold the concrete stuff had crews that would go out and apply it and they were trained to work with the stuff. One group almost died from it. Doing a church basement and even with a bunch of fans moving air in and out of it, got overcome by the fumes and were hospitalized because of it. I heard they darn near died from it, they were lucky someone came down to check when the fumes got so bad in the sanctuary area. After that every person applying the stuff had to use a suitable respirator any time they were even close to the stuff other than when it was in the sealed cans.
> 
> 
> In that doc on the Driftbuster rebuild I did, there's info on what I tried on the rusty handlebars - what worked and didn't. On removing surface rust, there also info on abrasive blasting that worked pretty good. Ground up coal slag (Northern Tools) does a pretty good job getting all the surface rust and paint off the various parts. Just don't hit anything you don't want the finish damaged on (like chrome, etc.)



Good stuff. What ever I decide, I will be painting out side and probably using a fresh air respirator that I will borrow from my brother.
It's too bad I can't use it today as we are getting hammered with snow today.


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## sock-feet

I had some time to put on the Rubber mods for the Impeller. I used the sidewall of an old tire and used self drilling Screws and Stainless washers. I only put them two of the impeller paddles. Should I do all 4 or just two??? What are your thoughts? 

My Stainless chain master links are lost somewhere in the USPS abyss. What a pain in the ass.


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## cranman

2 is good 4 is better....


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## sock-feet

Ok. I finally got a chance to get the old gal up and running. After putting new oil and gas in, I gave it one pull and it started like a champ. I proceeded to take her for a spin around the driveway and she ran great for about 4 minutes. It idled and ran under power perfectly and all of a sudden it seemed that it was running out of gas. I tried to pump the ball to give it more fuel and choke it and nothing worked. I put a new plug in it and it had the same problem. I checked the compression and it was 172 cold and 160 hot. I pretty much figured it was going to be a bad coil and I ordered a NOS Tec coil off ebay and I am going to install it because the original one is kind of crusty. Anyway, I decided to take the recoil cover off and do an inspection. Well I found the problem. The green wire that goes to the harness supplying the light had rubbed against the block for over 30 years and intermittently grounded out on the block and caused the skipping and random shutting off episodes. I have found this happens quite a bit on these small engines. My red briggs did this same thing but it completely shut down making it pretty easy to diagnose. I had to reroute the wire completely. Anyone else have this problem?

Coil part number 35135 or 35135a or 33-343

https://www.ebay.com/itm/oem-tecums...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


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## cranman

Here are some pics of the 10 32 track machine I converted to wheels from a newer Noma. I touched up the paint with Metallic Matte Nickel from Rustoleum


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## HCBPH

Good find on the wire issue, wish I was so lucky. Unfortunately the Searsasaurus took a dump today, big time I suspect. We got 12" yesterday and last night. I blew the worst of it last night and had more blowing to do today. Got the blower out and had it idling at about 1/3 throttle and heard a bang, immediately died with a little smoke near the crank. No resistance at all on the rope. Oil level was good so it didn't run dry.

Obviously I'm suspecting the connecting rod let go. I did a quick once over and didn't see visual damage behind the starter, but I had not removed the starter yet. If it is the rod and there's no other damage, that should be a quick fix I suspect. If not I've have a LCT 10 hp engine in the box in the basement for a while. I had planned to put that one on another 7 hp chassis I picked up with a bad engine but if needed I'll set up the Searsasaurus to take it and worry about another 10 HP Tecumseh later on.

I still have a backup blower, one I rebuilt the other year but didn't sell so I decided to keep it. Lucky I did as that packed snow was heavy. It's not the Searsasaurus, but definitely better than a shovel.


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## Kiss4aFrog

HCBPH, since you were running it at 1/3 throttle maybe it wasn't spinning fast enough to punch the block. Hope for the best that's it's only the rod.


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## HCBPH

Kiss4aFrog said:


> HCBPH, since you were running it at 1/3 throttle maybe it wasn't spinning fast enough to punch the block. Hope for the best that's it's only the rod.



That's what I'm hoping. If it's just a rod that should be under $25 and hopefully didn't screw up the crank or cylinder. Won't know till I have a chance to tear it down and find out the bad news.


Paul


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## sock-feet

Sorry to hear that about the engine. What a bummer. 

I repaired the wire and put it back together. I tried it again and it is doing the same thing. I am going to put the new coil on and try it again. The coil looks to be original and crusty. Seems to go bad when it gets hot-lost spark after 10 minutes of running.

Hopefully that will be the permanent cure.


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> I repaired the wire and put it back together. I tried it again and it is doing the same thing. I am going to put the new coil on and try it again. The coil looks to be original and crusty. Seems to go bad when it gets hot-lost spark after 10 minutes of running.


I'm going to throw a thought out there first. Take off the carb cover, loosen the gas cap and put some gas in a squeeze bottle. Start it up and watch it. If it doesn't die then you have a plugged vent in the gas cap. If it starts to die, spray a little gas in the carb and see if it picks up, if it does it's a fuel delivery issue. If it does die, have another sparkplug at the ready, swap the plug wire quick and ground the plug to the head. Use your electric starter and spin the engine and see if you have spark. If you have spark then it's questionable, if not then it's likely the coil IMO.


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## HCBPH

HCBPH said:


> That's what I'm hoping. If it's just a rod that should be under $25 and hopefully didn't screw up the crank or cylinder. Won't know till I have a chance to tear it down and find out the bad news.
> Paul


Not trying to steal the thread, but a quick update: no joy in Mudville. It holed the block so going to see how a LCT engine fits (same frame as the one being discussed).


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## sock-feet

All good. Hope it all works out in the end.

I am just about done with the TEC hm100. I have put too many hours into this to get it running correctly. I am going to check valve clearances and if they check out i am done with it. I have gone through everything 5 times and even replaced all fuel lines. I can't get it to run well after it gets hot. My wife works at Harbor freight and the 13 hp is on sale for 299 and she gets 20% off of that. So, for $240.00 I am re powering it with the 420cc beast. I am concerned about the fitment with the auger shaft on the left and the shaft placement compared to the Tec. I also read that there is an adjustable main jet that needs to be installed. Any input is welcome on this re power. I dont see alot of 13 hp swaps.


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## HCBPH

I had a LCT 291cc Snowforce engine on the shelf I had planned for another blower but I'm measuring against the Searsasaurus (same chassis). The mounting for sure is going to be an issue. I'm in the middle of some preliminary work, so it's not exact, but looks like the reinforcing plate can be reused with drilling one side only, the 4 holes through the mounts will all have to be redrilled. Have not measures things like shaft to surface distance yet. There will be a number of mods that likely will need to be made before I'm done, unless I just happen to find another 10 before doing that.

I'll make a record in case anyone else wants to do it in the future.

Paul


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## sock-feet

Cool. I bought the Preditor Harbor Freight 13 hp. It is currently mounted and everything is hooked up. I will Post the pictures and all of the modifications that had to be done. The original 37" belts aren't going to work because the shaft is 1.25" higher than the Tec 10hp. I cut the belt and measured the length needed and it will more than likely get 2 39" 1/2 belts.


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## HCBPH

Just for curiosity, does the HF 13HP have the same bolt pattern as the TEC? I found a possible TEC 10 on CL I made an offer on. Much easier if they accept the offer or not. 

I have to admit I had not looked a lot at the LCT till now as it's always been a 'one of these days' projects.
The base mount bolt pattern is wider than TEC. There's at least the need for 4 new mount holes in the tractor unit. The distance from the spindle to the base is higher, meaning like you found the need for new belts. I have not gotten that far but I suspect the belt guard isn't going to fit, requiring the need to find a suitable replacement or make one from scratch.

I for one would be interested in the changes required to put that 13 on one of these chassis.


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## sock-feet

The belt cover works fine and the bolt holes all need to be drilled. I went out today to get the belts and I got them on. The belts to me seem to be plenty big with enough slack. The problem I am having is the friction on the engine pulley. I took sandpaper and polished up the belt surface of the engine pulley. Both belts are spinning the auger and drive pulley. Is there something I am missing? I put on 39 inch Gates Green belts which are 2 inches longer than stock. You can get the drive pulley to stop spinning, but you have to pull really hard on the bars while it is going. Stumped!!!!!! I will get pics loaded soon. I am impressed with the preditor. Super quite and seems to have some grunt.


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## sock-feet

Ok,

Here are the pics of the Preditor on and working. Please look and let me know your thoughts. I think I am going to order 40" belts and try it again.


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## sock-feet

More pics


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## dbert

I was just having this conversation in another thread. 
You need the belt guide studs to pinch the belt beside the pulley.








I replaced the belts on my Driftbreaker and was just baffled as to why they were grabbing with all that slack. I was just testing things and hadn't put the belt guides back in place yet.


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## dbert

Other thread I was talking about these in tonight.
Click Here


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## sock-feet

dbert said:


> Other thread I was talking about these in tonight.
> Click Here


I Figured that was the issue. I am going to have to fabricate something different because of the new engine. I am still going to get at least 1 40" belt for the drive pulley. That one seems to be short. Shouldn't the belt guards be just below the center line of the drive pulley?


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## sock-feet

Ok. I rigged the Belt guides on the engine pulley and it worked great for the auger belt put still has drag on the drive belt. I will be getting the 40" belt for that today. I will take some pics later when I get it all back together and I might post a video on youtube as well. This is going to a beast with 13hp. Starts 1/2 pull and is super quiet.


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## dbert

I found these photos from a few years ago. I think I was trying to help someone with a similar issue and was attempting to show how much slack I had on mine with the auger lever off. This Drift Breaker is a little older than yours and didn't use cables to operate the belt tension, but I believe most of it is similar. I can pull the belt cover off today and take other photos if you need more info or dimensions. 
















edit: Failed to mention the real intent of these photos was to show you where my belt guides live in relation to the pulley.


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## HCBPH

How did you resolve the issue with the driver/auger control in front of the engine or does not the HF engine block that area? Slipped the LCT onto the Searsasaurus today and it totally blocked the controls. I had planned to split the controls on the blower which would solve that but misplaced the cable and control handle for now.
Going back to a TEC 10 for now to avoid that issue.


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## sock-feet

The crankshaft of the HF engine is long and you can set the engine back enough so the split controls still work. The engine has to be set back as far as the pulley can be flush with the end of the crankshaft. I gives enough room for everything. It took me hours to figure that out. I should be an engineer. The 40" belt worked perfect for the drive belt and the 39 is good for the auger belt. It is pretty much mocked up and ready for deconstruction and powder coat.

The last pic might show the room in front of the right dipstick. The engine is set back enough that it can disengage the auger. I will take a better pic tomorrow to show the clearance.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> How did you resolve the issue with the driver/auger control in front of the engine or does not the HF engine block that area? Slipped the LCT onto the Searsasaurus today and it totally blocked the controls. I had planned to split the controls on the blower which would solve that but misplaced the cable and control handle for now.
> Going back to a TEC 10 for now to avoid that issue.


look close at the welds. I rewelded the bracket for the cable and added a piece of angle iron drilled and welded to the engine to brace it good.


----------



## sock-feet

sock-feet said:


> The crankshaft of the HF engine is long and you can set the engine back enough so the split controls still work. The engine has to be set back as far as the pulley can be flush with the end of the crankshaft. I gives enough room for everything. It took me hours to figure that out. I should be an engineer. The 40" belt worked perfect for the drive belt and the 39 is good for the auger belt. It is pretty much mocked up and ready for deconstruction and powder coat.
> 
> The last pic might show the room in front of the right dipstick. The engine is set back enough that it can disengage the auger. I will take a better pic tomorrow to show the clearance.


the first pics are the engine running and the belts not moving.


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> look close at the welds. I rewelded the bracket for the cable and added a piece of angle iron drilled and welded to the engine to brace it good.


This is what I'm talking about. The shaft needs to slide back and forth to engage the auger, while the drive is always engaged. The LCT engine blocks part of where the control runs to that from the handlebars. I plan to split those controls eventually but for now that will be later. Makes it hard to consider using that engine. Sounds like the HF engine does not have material in that area - is that correct? If so it makes the HF a better choice of engine for this style frame unless you split the controls.


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> This is what I'm talking about. The shaft needs to slide back and forth to engage the auger, while the drive is always engaged. The LCT engine blocks part of where the control runs to that from the handlebars. I plan to split those controls eventually but for now that will be later. Makes it hard to consider using that engine. Sounds like the HF engine does not have material in that area - is that correct? If so it makes the HF a better choice of engine for this style frame unless you split the controls.


Yes. If you look closely the HF engine sits far enough back so there is room in front of the oil fill hole. It barely has enough clearance, but it works. The belts are all sorted out now. I am just trying to break the engine in now. It needs to run for 3 hours at varying rpm's without load. They say that you can run it normally after this time and then change the oil. I am going to change the oil after the first 3 hours.


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## sock-feet

cranman said:


> Here are some pics of the 10 32 track machine I converted to wheels from a newer Noma. I touched up the paint with Metallic Matte Nickel from Rustoleum


I think I might go your route. That paint looks pretty close to the original color and won't break the bank. I priced it getting the parts sandblasted and powder coated and is isn't cheap. Guy charges $70.00 per hour to sandblast and powder coat on top of that.


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> This is what I'm talking about. The shaft needs to slide back and forth to engage the auger, while the drive is always engaged. The LCT engine blocks part of where the control runs to that from the handlebars. I plan to split those controls eventually but for now that will be later. Makes it hard to consider using that engine. Sounds like the HF engine does not have material in that area - is that correct? If so it makes the HF a better choice of engine for this style frame unless you split the controls.


Find someone that works at HF. The sale price on the 13hp is $299 plus an employee discount makes the price go down to $240.00. IMO it is worth installing and fabricating a new engine instead of spending hours getting a tired old TEC running. I am going to fabricate a Battery bracket on the back of the tractor part and make it DC electric start. The good thing is the HF unit is DC electric start with a key like a car. You don't see too many snowblowers with this.


----------



## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> I think I might go your route. That paint looks pretty close to the original color and won't break the bank. I priced it getting the parts sandblasted and powder coated and is isn't cheap. Guy charges $70.00 per hour to sandblast and powder coat on top of that.


If you have a compressor with enough oomph to it, here's a abrasive blaster I have: https://www.eastwood.com/ew-100lb-pressure-abrasive-blaster.html

I use ground up cinder from Northern Tools, I've got a 60 gal 5 HP compressor to drive it. That's what I've used on my stuff and it's worked out well. If you have enough projects, it won't take long to pay for it vs. paying someone else to do it.


----------



## sock-feet

Cool. I'm going to look at that blaster and media. I have a 220 compressor that might work.

I added the Battery Bracket, installed the battery and cables, and took off the original light. The battery works great and the engine starts with a tap of the key.

There are two pics showing the auger split shaft clearance between the engine engaged and disengaged. The cable is connected to one of the engine bolts.

I want to find a LED 12 volt light pod to mount on the top of the front drift breaker housing like the old red drift breaker headlight Pod. Let me know if you have any suggestions.


----------



## HCBPH

Good to hear you have it pretty much done. Here's a couple of pictures of what I used to confined the material while blasting and it worked. Do used a face shield, good dust mask and I used some long welding gloves to protect myself. 

I found myself a 10-32 Brute blower and I took the motor, controls and wheels off. Turns out the motor is a short shaft so I'm going to make an extension for it, swap the carb, make up some new gas lines and try it out. For the price I think I did OK, it even has a 120 starter on it.

I'm at a bit of a quandary though. I now have all the parts (I think) to split the auger\drive controls. If I do that I can use that LCT on the Searsasaurus at the same time. I will still fix the crank extender on the motor as I have another blower frame waiting for an engine also, so both will be used but which will go on which is yet to be determined.


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Good to hear you have it pretty much done. Here's a couple of pictures of what I used to confined the material while blasting and it worked. Do used a face shield, good dust mask and I used some long welding gloves to protect myself.
> 
> I found myself a 10-32 Brute blower and I took the motor, controls and wheels off. Turns out the motor is a short shaft so I'm going to make an extension for it, swap the carb, make up some new gas lines and try it out. For the price I think I did OK, it even has a 120 starter on it.
> 
> I'm at a bit of a quandary though. I now have all the parts (I think) to split the auger\drive controls. If I do that I can use that LCT on the Searsasaurus at the same time. I will still fix the crank extender on the motor as I have another blower frame waiting for an engine also, so both will be used but which will go on which is yet to be determined.


Were you able reuse the sand blast media with that? I would use the LCT engine if possible. 
I am getting that 10 32 track drive craftsman soon and will need to source some wheels and tires for it. There isn't any kind of snowblower junkyard around me. I'm not sure how the engine is on that one. Hopefully I can make one complete HM100 out of the two engines. I might put a wanted ad out for some on CL and see what happens.

I like the split controls and will have to look at your pics of what I need to make that happen. I wish I knew someone local that has old small power equipment parts for sale. I tried it out on the last small snow we had and it kinda sucks because you cant clear the shoot out unless you put in neutral every time you stop to turn.


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## HCBPH

As far as abrasive reuse goes, screen it well before reuse and you can reuse the coal slag 3-5 times typically. It's like sandpaper, as long as the abrasive has sharp edges, it will work
Here's an example of a screen: https://www.eastwood.com/blast-medi...MIhs2hsP-C2QIVh1mGCh3_kgeoEAQYASABEgJv5vD_BwE
Basically you want to get out any paint and rust fragments out of the material before reuse. 

Being I both got the handles off the part machine along with finding the ones I bought last year but misplaced, I'm thinking about making this a longer term project and doing the split controls right away. The best way is to find another drive cable like you currently have but I can't find anyone selling them. The alternative is buy another chute control cable but you will have to do some jury-rigging to attach it to the handle and though available it's not cheap.

I am reconsidering doing the LCT engine now if I make this a long term project and split the controls. The front of this engine looks similar to the Subaru engine, there's an oil fill on both sides of the engine and the one sits right in line with the auger/drive control.

Pretty sure I covered splitting the controls. About the only welding I did was in the sleeve on the new control and theoretically even that doesn't take much, might even be able to solder it or something similar.


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## cranman

I used Noma wheels and tires from a 10 27 and just added a few 3/4 wahers on the tractor side to take up some play, on my 10-32 track conversion.....


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## sock-feet

cranman said:


> I used Noma wheels and tires from a 10 27 and just added a few 3/4 wahers on the tractor side to take up some play, on my 10-32 track conversion.....


Yes I need to find some. I think you can make any wheel tire combo work if it a 3/4" ID hub. I'm going to put a want ad out on CL.


----------



## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> Yes I need to find some. I think you can make any wheel tire combo work if it a 3/4" ID hub. I'm going to put a want ad out on CL.


Careful here, they don't all interchange. 3/4" shaft will be mandatory, but the distance from the pin/bolt hole to the inside of the axel shaft or tire will dictate if it will work on your machine or not. I had to cut that one hub on the document I had on the craftsman 10-32 to make it work correctly. Got another pair I want to replace some hard wheels with that will need to be cut down in size.

I'm not going to swear to it, but IIRC Craftsman, Noma, Simplicity and I think Toro will be close if not right on. Same thing with what won't work IIRC are Ariens, John Deere, that Brute machine I just bought. Those are about the only ones I've seen wheels/rims on so there are likely more I just don't know about them.

Measure carefully before putting out your $$.


----------



## sock-feet

cranman said:


> Here are some pics of the 10 32 track machine I converted to wheels from a newer Noma. I touched up the paint with Metallic Matte Nickel from Rustoleum


How many cans of the Metallic Matte Nickel from Rustoleum paint did you use. Did you put on two or three coats? Did you use the Rustoleum Primer as well. If so, how many cans did you go through?


----------



## cranman

The paint was just faded, so I didn't strip and prime......one good coat on the bucket was about 1/4 can...perfect match. I've had very good luck with Rustoleum.......I prime with Rusty Metal primer if I strip the paint or bare spots....the two coats. I can do a whole blower two coats with one can.


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Careful here, they don't all interchange. 3/4" shaft will be mandatory, but the distance from the pin/bolt hole to the inside of the axel shaft or tire will dictate if it will work on your machine or not. I had to cut that one hub on the document I had on the craftsman 10-32 to make it work correctly. Got another pair I want to replace some hard wheels with that will need to be cut down in size.
> 
> I'm not going to swear to it, but IIRC Craftsman, Noma, Simplicity and I think Toro will be close if not right on. Same thing with what won't work IIRC are Ariens, John Deere, that Brute machine I just bought. Those are about the only ones I've seen wheels/rims on so there are likely more I just don't know about them.
> 
> Measure carefully before putting out your $$.


Good to know. I will take a bunch of measurements to make sure they fit. 

I hate to say this, but I hope we get 2 feet of snow soon. All of my friends are saying that I am doing all of this work and it isn't going to snow and I say "I'm ok with that." It snowed this morning, but it was only a dusting.


----------



## HCBPH

Well we've gotten a couple of inches of snow here lately, you're welcome to it. It's been too cold here lately to even work on the Searsasaurus outside. I have pretty much finished up that TEC 10 HP I picked up but can't even spend enough time outside to put it on and test it.


----------



## sock-feet

Has any one used these for heated grips or the cheap LED Lights? Now I have a battery, I think that I can add these accessories for little money. 

Also Jayzauto1 is going to sell me a parts grey Drift Breaker for little money. I think I will use the best part out the both of them.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6INCH-3...ash=item4414921c27:g:AWsAAOSwhiZaVgas&vxp=mtr


https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Motorc...m=192044223809&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226


----------



## sock-feet

All.

This is the one I should have bought:

https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/tls/d/sears-craftsman-4-stage-snow/6466387571.html

$275 is cheap if you are around that area. Looks mint and you also can have it shipped through Fastenal cheap.

I am going to stick to what I have and am getting.


----------



## sock-feet

Oh Yea!!!!!! Jayzauto1 is hooking me up with this gem!!! Thanks

I am going to use the best parts from both and make Super Blower. I ordered the heated grip pads and the LED lights.


----------



## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> Oh Yea!!!!!! Jayzauto1 is hooking me up with this gem!!! Thanks
> 
> I am going to use the best parts from both and make Super Blower. I ordered the heated grip pads and the LED lights.


If that happens to have the plastic bushings on the auger and axels, check out the thread I made on converting to roller bearings. It's an upgrade that is well worth the effort. That 2d unit doesn't look too bad so you might end up doing like I did, buy a parts machine and rebuild it instead and sell it later on if desired.


----------



## sock-feet

I completely deconstructed the DB from Jayzauto1-thanks Jay.

I got ambitious last night and got the augers free from the parts blower. I discussed it with my brother and we both concurred that the fastest way to get them apart is to cut a slit lengthwise and spread apart the auger from the shaft. I didn't cut the slit all the way and I hammered small chisels in the slot to spread it. I then took oil and sprayed it in the slit. I used a prop puller i have and used it to press out the shaft on both augers. I am glad that I am not doing this for a profit sale. I would loose a ton of money with all the time I have into this project. 

I will do the same on the blower that I have and use the best of both blowers. I am not sure if I am going to fix up the parts blower or just bag and tag it for spare parts for the future. I am sure it is worth far more as parts than as a whole anyway.

The last pic is the orientation of the belt guides on the auger housing. The long one on the complete Drift breaker was broken and I didn't know the position of them. so for reference this is the way they go.

Here are some pics of the augers:


----------



## CalgaryPT

sock-feet said:


> I completely deconstructed the DB from Jayzauto1-thanks Jay.
> 
> I got ambitious last night and got the augers free from the parts blower.
> 
> The last pic is the orientation of the belt guides on the auger housing. The long one on the complete Drift breaker was broken and I didn't know the position of them. so for reference this is the way they go.
> 
> Here are some pics of the augers:


Love those DB's...lots of memories seeing those parts on your floor


----------



## sock-feet

Ok.

I finally got the track machine from my friend and gave it a 10 minute carb clean oil level check and is started second pull. I adjusted the high speed jet and runs perfect. I let it warm up and I took a compression test-I didn't put a load on it. The compression test came up with 75. I tested the engine on the original unit and it is at 175. Why would one be 100 psi difference?????? Cold the Intake valve has 9thousands gap and the exhaust has 12 thousands on my original machine-both are the hm100 tec. *** Both Tested WOT.

Original engine runs like crap warm. Compression seems too high. 

Thoughts???


----------



## ELaw

There could be a bunch of carbon on the top of the piston and bottom of the head, which would raise compression a bit. But it's also possible one engine has a compression release and the other does not... or it has one that's not working correctly.

Oh one more thing: make sure the throttle and choke plates are fully open when testing compression. Anything that limits airflow through the carb can make the number lower.


----------



## HCBPH

Couple of added thoughts here. One is the gauge itself and how it's being used. It's possible someone replaced the piston in the engine and it's either domed or the centerline of the wrist pin isn't the same as the original piston, or the same thing with the connecting rod.
Another is the engine has been apart and they didn't get the gears between the crank and cam aligned correctly.
On the low compression, there's the chance the rings have moved and have the gaps aligned or the rings are just plain worn.


These may not be likely but are still possible. It may take some disassembly to confirm what's going on.


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Couple of added thoughts here. One is the gauge itself and how it's being used. It's possible someone replaced the piston in the engine and it's either domed or the centerline of the wrist pin isn't the same as the original piston, or the same thing with the connecting rod.
> Another is the engine has been apart and they didn't get the gears between the crank and cam aligned correctly.
> On the low compression, there's the chance the rings have moved and have the gaps aligned or the rings are just plain worn.
> 
> 
> These may not be likely but are still possible. It may take some disassembly to confirm what's going on.


So I repeated the compression test. Known good gauge-cranking over with the electric start-Wide Open Throttle-cold-both test in the 170's. This seems high. I didn't test by pulling it over with the pull cord. Would the decompression assy mess with the readings? 

I ordered a new carb off ebay and I am going to try the original engine again. The throttle on the carb seems to have excessive play. Exhaust valves and intake valves seem to be in range for clearance.


----------



## HCBPH

Found this online relating to a TEC 10 hp:
New Tecumseh engines should have a compression reading of at least 80 psi. If your reading is at least 60 psi (or the specification found in your engine manual), then compression is acceptable. 


Sorry, can't find anything even close to a 170 psi CR.


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Found this online relating to a TEC 10 hp:
> New Tecumseh engines should have a compression reading of at least 80 psi. If your reading is at least 60 psi (or the specification found in your engine manual), then compression is acceptable.
> 
> 
> Sorry, can't find anything even close to a 170 psi CR.


Maybe I should take the reading by pulling the pull start and see what it reads.


----------



## sock-feet

I went for it-all in.

I decided to blow apart one of the Tec's apart. I had the piston rings and gaskets, so I am doing a refresh of the Drift Breaker. 

I will Hone it today and probably check the valve clearances once I get it back together. I ordered an extra set of Rings and gaskets for the track blower as well. 

Visibly the rings looked warn compared to new rings. I checked the end gap in the rings and they are all good-engine was never apart.


----------



## sock-feet

So I got all of my parts and reassembled the engine Tec 10hp original engine. It went together smooth and I adjusted the carb. I will probably mount it on a piece of wood and break it in and then fog it and shelve it.

I got my Chinese motorcycle grip warmers and LED Headlights. The heated grips are kinda cool. They give you heat shrink to secure them on the existing hand grips. The LED lights a nice and Bright too. I have it almost wired and ready.


----------



## sock-feet

The Chinese hand warmers are awesome for $6.50!!!!!! They warm up within 3 minutes and are switched. The only way they would be better is if they were temp adjustable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Motorc...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I installed the lights and they are awesome too. I have a temp switch next to the hand warmer switch. I cut the hole for the switch just to the right and on the steel plate behind the shifter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322834087364

I ran the 10 Hp i rebuilt again and it runs good, but the carb is still finicky. I am going to put the brand new carb on it and try it again. 

I am very happy how this is coming out.


----------



## sock-feet

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This blower is now the best blower I have ever used!!!!! This was worth every hour and penny rebuilding. I definitely think that the TEC 10hp is way under powered for this blower. The HF 420 13 hp blew through thigh packed snow without even a hint of bogging down. It blew the snow hard compared to the 10 hp track drive I renovated. The 10 hp Tec was ok but bogged in heavy snow. 

The HF engine runs great and I don't need to adjust anything or take out the air filter. 

The heated hand grips are also a great addition as they worked great. 

If I were to keep the 10 32 track machine, I would replace the engine with the HF 420 engine for sure.

Here are some videos of the Drift Breaker killing it.


----------



## sock-feet

Ok.

I have replaced the Carb on the 10 HP Tec on the original engine that I re-ringed with a $12.00 China one. I adjusted it as best it would run on idle and fast speed. It ran better but it still didn't seem right. It still slightly surged. 

I went back to this video of an engine rebuild and the guy showed how he adjusted the Governor. I tried it-it made a big difference and it runs smooth and consistent. 

The whole video this guy did is great, but starting at the 4:10 minute time is when he explains the adjustment of the Governor.


----------



## sock-feet

If you plan on restoring one of these Drift breakers-check out these links. This is replacement bolts in Stainless steel for the entire auger housing sheet metal. I have a bunch of SS nuts and washers already, so I didn't order any. For around $20 I think it will look great compared to cleaning and trying to paint the original bolts.

1/4" Carriage Bolts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-20-X-5...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

1/4" bolts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-20-x-1...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

5/16" bolts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


----------



## sock-feet

I mounted the water resistant switch for the lights. It came out pretty good.


----------



## sock-feet

I went through the Forum and decided to do away with the chains and get the Kenda Xtrac tires. They look bad ass!!!!!! and gnarly 



https://www.ebay.com/itm/332197028514


----------



## sock-feet

More progress on the build. My brother gave me a piece of steel for the cutting edge. I drilled and tapped it so it uses the original rivet holes. I am also going to weld on angle iron to strengthen the bottom edge inside corners.

I also figured out what paint and primer I am going to use. One coat of etching primer, one coat of regular primer, and a custom matched paint that my local car paint supplier made up for me. It was a little pricey, but it should look good and shiny.

I think I am going to abandon the steel wheels on the sides of the auger housing. I think the cutting edge and the rear facing skids with new metal welded to make them thicker will be good enough as I will only use it on my asphalt driveway. 

If you are planning on doing this type of build with the Harbor Freight 13HP Predator engine, make sure you get the Hemi engine #60349 not the non Hemi #60340. The 60349 has almost 2 Ft Lbs of torque more.


----------



## HCBPH

Keep it up!


On skids, take a look in the Armourskips thread, there's a picture of what I did on the Searsasaurus and they work pretty good. Handle uneven concrete well. They can swivel on incline or decline and the stops I put on them prevent the auger housing from dropping too far.


----------



## sock-feet

What did you do to keep the bolt from sliding up in the slot of the skid? How do you adjust it as the skid wears out?


----------



## sock-feet

sock-feet said:


> What did you do to keep the bolt from sliding up in the slot of the skid? How do you adjust it as the skid wears out?


Oh. I just answered my own question by looking at it closely. The outside piece of metal dictates the height. The height can also be adjusted by changing to a different hole in the side panel and they tilt with the Terrain.


----------



## sock-feet

Ok.

I just ordered an all metal window regulator on ebay. I think I am going to go for it and upgrade it to a power chute. It is from a 1997 Cadillac Deville. Got it for $10.00 delivered. I am on the hunt for a Momentary reverse polarity switch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252238355908


----------



## sock-feet

Ok.

I just ordered an all metal window regulator on ebay. I think I am going to go for it and upgrade it to a power chute since I already have a 12 volt battery. It is from a 1997 Cadillac Deville. Got it for $10.00 delivered. I am on the hunt for a Momentary reverse polarity switch now. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252238355908


----------



## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> What did you do to keep the bolt from sliding up in the slot of the skid? How do you adjust it as the skid wears out?


Take a close look, there's a piece of metal between the skid and the nut that acts as a depth stop. What I did was support the auger housing off the concrete, laid the skid up and measured from the centerline of the bolt hole to the top surface of the runner. I took a piece of 1/8" IIRC flat steel and drilled a hole in it to match those dimensions (I made 2 but will just reference 1). Next I readjusted the height of the auger housing as if I wanted it higher and measured it the same way. Now taking the same piece of metal, measured from the centerline of the hole the opposite way, marked and cut it off. Add a little paint and they're done. Now you have 2 depth stops, all you have to do is flip them end-for-end.

Bolt through the auger housing hole, slip the center slot of the skid on the bolt, slip the depth stop on with the same leg down on both sides and add a self locking nut and you're done. I put the nuts snug but not super tight, that way they can rock a little when going over uneven concrete (follow the contour rather than ride off one end of a skid). If it was too loose, if you raised the blower, the skids could drop the max of the slot on the bolt but no further. When you lowered the blower to the concrete the skid would raise on the slot till it encounters the added stop and no further, back in the working position. Being this auger housing has multiple holes for the original depth controls and they're at an angle, you can fine tune your depth between the depth stop and moving the bolt between the various holes.

I've been running it this way for a few years now and only once did I have a problem. Backing up from the street to the sidewalk, left the auger low and caught one on the curb and it was turned so it was pointing vertical vs horizontal. Got on the sidewalk, going forward as I lowered it and the skid returned to the original position.

That's it. It works for me. No extra holes to drill. Handles rough concrete well. Couldn't ask for more than that.

PS just saw your response was while I was typing this. Figured to leave it in case it helps someone else that hasn't figured it out.


----------



## sock-feet

Great ideas Paul!!!

I had to take my back yard engineering to the extreme. I got my $10.00 delivered 1997 passenger side Cadillac window motor and made my own mount and coupling. 

The gear on the window motor had teeth and I didn't want to weld anything to the gear as I didn't want to melt anything in the motor. So my Backyard engineering knowledge took over. I kept staring at the gear and finally went to my extra sockets draw and found that a 3/8" drive 7/8" 12 point shallow socket fit perfectly on the gear. I came up with using the socket and putting a 3/8" carriage bolt through it from the inside. The square on the carriage bolt locked in the center of the socket. I used a 3/8" nut and tightened it to the socket. I used two fender washers, then the sprocket/Gear and then a lock nut. I drilled a hole in the carriage bolt for the roll pin for the Sprocket/Gear. I left some room for the Fender washers to spin independently of the Coupling. I used the holes in the window motor to hole the mount bracket and the carrier. 

I used the original stay to weld the bracket to. I might add another bracket to make it stiffer. The pause in the video is me changing the polarity on the test battery I was using. Turn the volume down if you don't like "The Knack - My Sharona"

Here is a link to the Youtube video and some pics.


----------



## HCBPH

You've got more time and energy than I do. If I can't turn an chute crank, I'll hire someone to blow the snow :devil:


----------



## sock-feet

*Drift Breaker in MI*

$200 is a steal. 

https://thumb.craigslist.org/for/d/sears-craftsman-snoblower/6487025110.html


----------



## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> $200 is a steal.
> https://thumb.craigslist.org/for/d/sears-craftsman-snoblower/6487025110.html



If the auger rakes aren't rusted on solid, maybe depending on how much you want it. Down sides are plastic bushings and no electric starter. I'd be more inclined about $125-$150 figuring you're going to spend another $100-$150 on it at a minimum. This is assuming the engine along with the drive sprockets & control cable check out OK IMO, unless you have a parts stash.


----------



## sock-feet

*Electric Chute Rotator*

I finally got the DPDT Reversable polarity switch from China. I bought 3 in case one goes bad. I finished wiring it up and tested it. I am happy how this turned out for sure. The tricky part is wiring the switch correctly-you have to cross the corner terminals to make it work. There is a wiring diagram in the pictures. I can't wait for the weather to change to get this disassembled and painted. 

Here is the link for the YouTube of the operation of the Rotator:







https://www.ebay.com/itm/6Pin-Toggl...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


----------



## HCBPH

Maybe a stupid question: do you have a limiter of some type so when you hit end in one direction it breaks power to the motor or do you just let it hang? Not a big deal but if it shorted or got stuck you could burn up your motor if I'm seeing it right.
Something like on a power window where when you hit the end of travel it stops the motor.


Just a thought. I like it, more than I want to put into a blower but that's a personal thing.


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Maybe a stupid question: do you have a limiter of some type so when you hit end in one direction it breaks power to the motor or do you just let it hang? Not a big deal but if it shorted or got stuck you could burn up your motor if I'm seeing it right.
> Something like on a power window where when you hit the end of travel it stops the motor.
> 
> 
> Just a thought. I like it, more than I want to put into a blower but that's a personal thing.


Yea-there isn't a limit switch. It has enough wiggle room to let the sprocket jump a tooth without burning the motor up. The good thing is you can find those window motors on ebay for like $10.00 delivered if it were ever to burn up. I am the only one that will use the blower and will make sure I don't swivel it farther than the limits.

Any ideas for a limit switch or trip in current based on raised amps are welcome. I can always convert it back to the original hand crank if it all goes bad. I have two spares in inventory. 

The weather looks like it is warming up for the weekend, so I might be able to get started on the prepping and painting.


----------



## HCBPH

For a limit switch setup, maybe look at a car door and how they have it. If you can lay your hands on a factory service manual it should have a schematic also.


----------



## sock-feet

I went for it.

I full on broke it down for paint and build. I have it in my own organized chaos for rebuild.


----------



## HCBPH

If those marks in the auger housing were the results of something denting the housing, I had some on one and I took them out with a hammer and dolly similar to doing automotive bodywork. Now would be the time to do it, before getting out the paint.

Just a thought.


----------



## sock-feet

Back on the Restoration. Who is out there????? I started to clean and paint the parts for the Breaker. I will show more as it progresses. Super blower!!!


----------



## CalgaryPT

Used to have a Driftbreaker in the when I was a kid and did removal for the local hockey rink. Bought it used, without a muffler. I was a God when I fired that beast up!

Keep it up!


----------



## sock-feet

*Going Back together!!!!*

Oh Yea!!!!

Here is some snow blower porn. Seems to be going pretty smooth.


----------



## sock-feet

*All back together!!!!!!*

More Drift Breaker Porn. It all works great. I put the impeller Mod on all four paddles. 

This was a ton of work and I think it will be worth it. I will take some video and and some pics this week and I hope this post helps anyone that wants to build one of these drift breakers.


----------



## CalgaryPT

So is that fresh metal you rebuilt it with, or sandbasted original???

Gotta love that 3rd stage bar -- it's so menacing.


----------



## sock-feet

I used an angle grinder to get the paint off then sand blasted the rust spots on original steel panels. I then used a raw metal etching primer and good quality paint from my local paint store. The black is a rattle can that is called MRO Black. I would paint a car with this rattle can as it is shiny and seems indestructo.


----------



## sock-feet

The third stage is sick and is now a bigger chain and sprocket with stainless steel chain. Oh Yea. I will get some video running and when it snows, I will show the outcome. It is definitely a beast!


----------



## CalgaryPT

Mine in the 1970's was the smaller model, I think the 8/26. Sure wish I still had it. What a labour of love to restore.

And what about the engine? Is that new? Did you strip and repaint it?

Darn that looks great! I'm not a huge Craftsman fan by any means, but in those days they made them solid. 

Please keep us posted. You've earned some bragging rights. Soooo sweet.


----------



## sock-feet

CalgaryPT said:


> Mine in the 1970's was the smaller model, I think the 8/26. Sure wish I still had it. What a labour of love to restore.
> 
> And what about the engine? Is that new? Did you strip and repaint it?
> 
> Darn that looks great! I'm not a huge Craftsman fan by any means, but in those days they made them solid.
> 
> Please keep us posted. You've earned some bragging rights. Soooo sweet.


Go through the whole post when you get a chance-I had fun doing it. I re-powered it with the Harbor freight 420cc Hemi engine and stripped the body of the blower down to metal and painted it. I chose this model because it is 32" wide and has a real 5 speed transmission with gears-no friction disk. It is made of heavy gauge steel and rips through the snow.


----------



## HCBPH

Looks pretty darn good to me! Now maybe a little pinstriping or maybe some 'Moon' decals or something for a little more character. You realize that thing should be capable of chewing up any illegally parked Toyota or Honda that gets in your way :devil:


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Looks pretty darn good to me! Now maybe a little pinstriping or maybe some 'Moon' decals or something for a little more character. You realize that thing should be capable of chewing up any illegally parked Toyota or Honda that gets in your way :devil:


I was going to ask my friend or a local sign company to make some Drift Breaker decals like the factory ones.


----------



## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> Looks pretty darn good to me! Now maybe a little pinstriping or maybe some 'Moon' decals or something for a little more character. You realize that thing should be capable of chewing up any illegally parked Toyota or Honda that gets in your way :devil:


How about this Decal on the front?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-...ash=item2f215d17c0:g:obMAAOSwHPNbEcan&vxp=mtr


----------



## sock-feet

*Final Pics and video*

Awesome restoration that will be way better than any other blower there is.


----------



## sock-feet

*Here is some video*

All Systems are a go!


----------



## CalgaryPT

Bloody awesome! I love it. Great job you did. Congrats.


----------



## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> How about this Decal on the front?
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-...ash=item2f215d17c0:g:obMAAOSwHPNbEcan&vxp=mtr


Now that's a decal!


----------



## CalgaryPT

HCBPH said:


> Now that's a decal!


I wish I'd had one like that when I was younger. The word Craftsman on the decal is OK too.


----------



## Grunt

Awesome job sock-feet. The only thing that would make it better would be a taller chute.


----------



## tdipaul

.
Nice job!

If the decal is placed here she is in your field of vison while operating the machine 



.


----------



## sock-feet

tdipaul said:


> .
> Nice job!
> 
> If the decal is placed here she is in your field of vison while operating the machine
> 
> 
> 
> .


I am glad that every one likes her. I am going to get her and put her in that spot. Hang in there and I will get some pics-it will be better than than the warning decals for sure.


----------



## CalgaryPT

Grunt said:


> The only thing that would make it better would be a taller chute.


I do love the tall chute on my Honda HSS724 ACTD. But there is something raw and nasty about that small chute that just appeals to me. It's like it's saying, "I can perform just as well as those fancy downtown chutes with all their money and fancy attachments. But I know how to please you too."

Ummmm.....sorry. Perhaps I've said too much.


----------



## CalgaryPT

Grunt said:


> The only thing that would make it better would be a taller chute.


I do love the tall chute on my Honda HSS724 ACTD. But there is something raw and nasty about that small chute that just appeals to me. It's like it's saying, "I can perform just as well as those fancy downtown chutes with all their money and fancy attachments. But I know how to please you too."

Ummmm.....sorry. Perhaps I've said too much.


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## Grunt

sock-feet said:


> I am glad that every one likes her. I am going to get her and put her in that spot. Hang in there and I will get some pics-it will be better than than the warning decals for sure.


Since you are going to add the decal, maybe the chute will make itself longer. :devil:


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## tdipaul

.

She will be just fine with this short but girthy chute. 

Its what the ladies prefer  

.


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## sock-feet

I'm Glad everyone like my new Craftsman Decal. The Girthy chute will stay. Maybe I will use the spare chute I have to play with to make longer.


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## sock-feet

*Tall Chute*

I had some time to fart around with the chute and get the decals on her. I grafted the 7" chute extension out of the steel from the spare blower I got. I cut it and made a brake out of 2x4's to bend it. Now I have both options of a high and low chute. I didn't want to make it too high as I wanted to use the cable. 

Like the Decal? Merica!:grin:


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## HCBPH

tdipaul said:


> .
> Nice job!
> 
> If the decal is placed here she is in your field of vison while operating the machine
> 
> 
> 
> .


You will find that snow will drop and pack in that area in use. Make sure she won't come off if it gets wet.


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## Grunt

HCBPH said:


> You will find that snow will drop and pack in that area in use. Make sure she won't come off if it gets wet.


 
Looks like she is dressed to get wet, but the cold may cause some blistering.


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## sock-feet

I think the decal trumps the longer chute upgrade. LOL :smile2:


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## sock-feet

I have to come up with some kind of skid shoes as this beast jumps all over the place when the blade scrapes the asphalt. I changed the design of the scraper and will have to come up with a new mount deal. What does everyone think of the bearing design???


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> I have to come up with some kind of skid shoes as this beast jumps all over the place when the blade scrapes the asphalt. I changed the design of the scraper and will have to come up with a new mount deal. What does everyone think of the bearing design??? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKSLekZDrlQ


The video won't play for me, but I could see the initial image. My thoughts on that bearing skid replacement - not much. If you have a ridge in the sidewalk ahead of the blower you're going to slam into it with the scraper bar before the rollers even get close. You also run the risk of the bearing freezing up on it plus I doubt they'll work well on semi-packed snow.
Personally I used long skids on the Searsasaurus (there's a thread on them posted the other year) and as they extend beyond the scraper bar the blower will wide over the spots where the sidewalk isn't perfectly flat.

My 2 cents.


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## HCBPH

Found pictures of the setup I'm using on the Searsasaurus. It pivots and the pivot is inline with the scraper bar.


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## Kiss4aFrog

So how is it working for you ?? Do you notice much of a difference with the chute extension ??

.


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## Owenwalk

Just found this thread, right as I was finishing up the instal of a 420 on a Drift Breaker. It was interesting to see how there were similarities and differences. The biggest one is that I raised the engine 1/2" to clear the oil caps as they interfered with the auger control on the right and the chute control on the left. Raising it up made it all fit beautifully. The only problem I now have is modding the cover to fit over the pulley. 

Now here's the question. You added a battery to run lights, grips, power chute and starter. Did you install a generator to keep the battery charged? If not, how do you keep it charged? BTW, what do you do in the off season with the battery? I an thinking of seeing if the old Tecumseh generator will fit on the HF engine. Did you look into that?


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## HCBPH

On the TEC 10, there's a different stator along with additional magnets on the flywheel. Don't know if that will fit on a HF engine or not.


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## sock-feet

The battery has lasted the entire winter without a charge. The HF engine is supposed to charge the battery and I haven't really checked. The battery has run everything all winter without any charging. The battery I am using is out of a Honda Jet ski I have and it will be used for both uses as they are on different seasons. If you run a motorcycle battery it would last all winter easily. If you are worried, run a battery tender to it all winter. All electric has run flawless all winter. I am very happy with the results and it has way more power than needed as I haven't found a pile that it can't rip through.


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## sock-feet

Kiss4aFrog said:


> So how is it working for you ?? Do you notice much of a difference with the chute extension ??
> 
> .


I don't really see much of a difference, but it certainly looks badass. I can't believe how good this blower works and the HF engine is a great engine out of the box. I will recommend that you raise the high speed rpm on the linkage a bit higher than stock. It makes a big difference in power and throwing distance.


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## sock-feet

Owenwalk said:


> Just found this thread, right as I was finishing up the instal of a 420 on a Drift Breaker. It was interesting to see how there were similarities and differences. The biggest one is that I raised the engine 1/2" to clear the oil caps as they interfered with the auger control on the right and the chute control on the left. Raising it up made it all fit beautifully. The only problem I now have is modding the cover to fit over the pulley.
> 
> Now here's the question. You added a battery to run lights, grips, power chute and starter. Did you install a generator to keep the battery charged? If not, how do you keep it charged? BTW, what do you do in the off season with the battery? I an thinking of seeing if the old Tecumseh generator will fit on the HF engine. Did you look into that?


Read newer posts. The Tech Generator is AC and wouldn't work to charge battery. The 420 is supposed to charge the battery if hooked up correctly from what I understand. I use a battery out of a honda jetski and use it for the ski in the summer and the blower in the winter. I have used the blower all winter without charging it at all. All of the added electrics work great. Turn the high speed throttle screw in to raise high speed RPM's. It makes a big difference.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Owenwalk said:


> Now here's the question. You added a battery to run lights, grips, power chute and starter. Did you install a generator to keep the battery charged? If not, how do you keep it charged? BTW, what do you do in the off season with the battery? I an thinking of seeing if the old Tecumseh generator will fit on the HF engine. Did you look into that?


:welcome: to SBF Owenwalk

The HF engines are clones of Honda engines so I'm almost positive nothing from a Tecumseh is going to fit. Maybe the gas tank with a little modification :devil:
There are kits out there to add a charging coil to some of the HF engines but I thought the the big 420 had a charging circuit and came with 12 Volt electric start off the shelf?
https://www.harborfreight.com/13-hp-420cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epacarb-69736.html

Charging coils: https://www.bonanza.com/listings/Ig...jyoD421Waaiuia_dG0un-jnfrsd8LjfRoCwmQQAvD_BwE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Charging-C...69676-69728-69729-212CC-R210III-/253293335872


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## sock-feet

Kiss4aFrog said:


> :welcome: to SBF Owenwalk
> 
> The HF engines are clones of Honda engines so I'm almost positive nothing from a Tecumseh is going to fit. Maybe the gas tank with a little modification :devil:
> There are kits out there to add a charging coil to some of the HF engines but I thought the the big 420 had a charging circuit and came with 12 Volt electric start off the shelf?
> https://www.harborfreight.com/13-hp-420cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epacarb-69736.html
> 
> Charging coils: https://www.bonanza.com/listings/Ig...jyoD421Waaiuia_dG0un-jnfrsd8LjfRoCwmQQAvD_BwE
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Charging-C...69676-69728-69729-212CC-R210III-/253293335872


Yea the 420 is supposed to charge battery out of box


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## wildernessjeep

HCBPH said:


> I've restored a 536.882700 blower that was in really sad condition when I got it in the past. It's a sound structure, very well built machine but totally abused when I got it. I documented what I did to disassemble it and rebuild it, it was one really sad case when I bought it. In fact I bought it for the electric starter and planned to part it out, but decided to rebuild it instead. There was virtually no area in this blower or engine that I didn't touch, everything was in really sad (rusty or broken) state when I got it but it turned out well in the end. Even the engine was salvageable when I got done, and it's unbelievable how bad it looked when I initially got it.
> 
> The last digit of the model number apparently depends on whether the unit came with an electric starter or not when purchased from what I can tell.
> 
> I do have a doc on the machine as I went through it if you're interested in a copy along with a doc on what I do to get auger rakes that are rusted onto the auger shaft off. I have them both in pdf and doc format (the machine rebuild along with one on getting rusted auger rakes off). If interested, send me a pm with your email address and I can send you a copy of each of them if interested.
> 
> I have to admit getting the auger rakes off can be a problem. typically I use a combination of penetrant, heat and pressure to get them loose. I also made some special tools to help shock them and hopefully break the rust loose between the rakes and the shaft. One thing I do is once they're off, clean and paint the shaft then coat them with anti-seize to help reduce the chance of them rusting solid again (this model blower does have a full width auger shaft in it).



Where did you get the replacement stickers after you painted it?

R


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## HCBPH

I didn't, I taped over the existing stickers when working on it and repainting. Sorry, never found a replacement sticker source.


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## sock-feet

Almost time to pull her out and get her ready to eat some snow.


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> Almost time to pull her out and get her ready to eat some snow.


I did this morning. Got 6"-10" of snow overnight and it was wet and heavy.


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## SimplicitySolid22

That is so weird I was going to ask you HCBPH if you still had you Craftsman Today? Don't you have a red II as well???


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> I did this morning. Got 6"-10" of snow overnight and it was wet and heavy.


How did she fling the snow? Looks like we might get some Sunday here in CT. Got it all lubed and ready for the fun. I need to put the some skids on this year for sure. It catches everything in driveway and jumps all over the place. I will address this and post. It has been a while.


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## HCBPH

SimplicitySolid22 said:


> That is so weird I was going to ask you HCBPH if you still had you Craftsman Today? Don't you have a red II as well???


I still have the Searsasaurus. It's got the engine off the Brute (I think) for now. I had picked up another engine but turned out there's something wrong in the magneto, no spark. Got a pile of parts for it but just need to take it back into the shop and figure out what's wrong. The core of it is a Tecumseh gear drive Craftsman (Murray) and still tough and mean when it comes to snow.



sock-feet said:


> How did she fling the snow? Looks like we might get some Sunday here in CT. Got it all lubed and ready for the fun. I need to put the some skids on this year for sure. It catches everything in driveway and jumps all over the place. I will address this and post. It has been a while.


It did pretty good overall. Especially since the auger housing is unmodified and it threw the wet/heavy crap. I've always planned to add an impeller kit to it, but never got around to it. Oh well, maybe now if I'm retired I will have time to do more.


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## SimplicitySolid22

That's it the Searsasaurus....HAHA....Glad you still have the bad boy.


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## sock-feet

I am real bummed that we didn't get crap for snow here in Western CT. I was looking forward in posting some videos of the DB eating it up.


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## sock-feet

I just saw a DB on FB marketplace. It is the smaller one but the Model number shows it has a the real transmission in it. 536-918401 

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3gsp5qk35i-000247/craftsman-536918401-snowblower-parts #45 shows a transmission. I might buy this one and rebuild a smaller one for my wife to use and get rid of my newer crappy craftsman blower.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/826884394393776/


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## sock-feet

I'm buying another gray 10/32 drift breaker today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wish it was the older red one. I will post another discussion as soon as I get get it.


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## Kiss4aFrog

You can always paint it next summer when you have some down time.

.


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## HCBPH

sock-feet said:


> I'm buying another gray 10/32 drift breaker today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wish it was the older red one. I will post another discussion as soon as I get get it.


If it's the one with the Tecumseh transmission, it's the same as the Searsasaurus (the red and white ones) started out. They changed the part number and color, pretty much everything else was identical.
The downside of the models was the later ones had plastic bushings and single control handle on all of them. Both are fixable, there's are threads I made on how to convert to roller bearings and how to split the controls. IMO it's the best the model could ever have been once these mods were done, which I've done to the Searsasaurus.


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## sock-feet

HCBPH said:


> If it's the one with the Tecumseh transmission, it's the same as the Searsasaurus (the red and white ones) started out. They changed the part number and color, pretty much everything else was identical.
> The downside of the models was the later ones had plastic bushings and single control handle on all of them. Both are fixable, there's are threads I made on how to convert to roller bearings and how to split the controls. IMO it's the best the model could ever have been once these mods were done, which I've done to the Searsasaurus.


Yes. I did all that to mime in this discussion. The new one will get the same upgrades


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## HCBPH

Remember, if you need parts pretty much on anything from 7 hp on up, as long as it has the Tecumseh transmission, the parts will interchange. That's how I downsized the auger housing on mine so it fit through the garage side door.
Now all you need is an illegally parked Toyota to test it out against ;-)


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## Dusty

That's awesome, I cant wait to see a video of it throwing snow.


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## waubel109

sock-feet said:


> As promised here is the restoration of my Drift Breaker 536.882702. Unfortunately this one is a little on the rusty side.
> 
> I bought this guy from a small engine repair person just east of Pittsburgh Penn and had it shipped by Fastenal to Danbury, Ct. I have deconstructed it and have ordered all parts that I think I will need. The plan is to replace all known bad parts and try it out-then tear it all apart and paint it.
> 
> Parts ordered:
> Flange bearing 3/4 inch for the axle UCF 204-12 Ebay
> Flange bearing 1 inch for the auger SARFT205-16 1" Ebay
> B&S Cable for the Chute 78059MA
> 1630RS Bearing for the auger drive shaft.
> 2 sprockets Martin brand 41BS14 1 Ebay for the 3rd stage drive chain. Mine are shot and I cut the welds and removed them from the auger and top drift breaker.
> NOS Piston rings 34866A
> Head gasket
> Engine side cover gasket
> 
> I have inspected the Transmission mounts and they look great and are tight.
> 
> I the auger tines are rusted to the front gear case shafts and I can't get them apart. I don't want to heat them because I don't want to burn the seals in the gear case. I have penetrating oil on them now. Any recommendations for getting them apart is welcome.
> 
> The Bearing for the Auger drive shaft had seized and screwed up the drive shaft which I will have to Mig weld and file down back to 3/4"


Hi Sock Feet! Congrats on your restoration! I also have one of these units and have been using it regularly. Unfortunately, I just broke the auger gears. I can't find replacement parts. Anu ideas are greatly appreciated! 
Thanks, Waubel109


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## HCBPH

waubel109 said:


> Hi Sock Feet! Congrats on your restoration! I also have one of these units and have been using it regularly. Unfortunately, I just broke the auger gears. I can't find replacement parts. Anu ideas are greatly appreciated!
> Thanks, Waubel109


Waubel109
The part is 47801 originally, most currently have MA either before or after the number but it looks like most sites list it as discontinued. You can watch Ebay for one but expect to spend around $100 or more for one, there is one on Ebay right now NOS. If you don't mind used, watch for a parts machine. I found the red and white along with the black and gray units had the same auger gearbox in them. Pretty much any unit with the 7 HP or bigger motor and a 26" or wider auger housing with the Tecumseh Pearless transmission (the gear one) likely have the same gearbox. Just look at the box shape and count the bolts to determine if you have a match or not. Disassemble the box, replace the three bushings (good practice IMO) and swap out the auger shaft, replace the seal and fill it with lube. I've swapped a couple of them over the years, and they've worked just fine.
Good luck.

PS if you find a parts machine, save all the parts you can. Even the transmissions will swap (though some have a different pulley shaft size) between all the various tractor units for the most part.


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