# 2 part axle seized together, causing steering to not function



## Canadian Guy (Jan 7, 2022)

Hey all,

I've figured out why my steering triggers aren't working. It's because the 2 half axles are seized/rusted inside the tube that connects them. I've tried everything to free it up, Vice grips with cheater bars, heat, etc... with no luck. 

Has anyone experienced this problem before? Any tips or tricks? 

These axles need to rotate freely in the tube for the steering to work properly, and for the workings to be removed for further servicing i.e.: grease 

I see no other option but to cut one or both of the axles for removal. (just on either side of the tube)...then get new axles and connecting tube fabricated. The cost of new parts is just ridiculous where I am. Close to $400 cad. for those 3 parts! 

Or I could live without steering assist lol


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would be using a good penetrating oil repeatedly .... after a few days of applying it, I would carefully attempt a gradual dismantle ... if still does not move, use some Mapp gas on outer casing and penetrating oil.


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## Canadian Guy (Jan 7, 2022)

Oneacer said:


> I would be using a good penetrating oil repeatedly .... after a few days of applying it, I would carefully attempt a gradual dismantle ... if still does not move, use some Mapp gas on outer casing and penetrating oil.


Good idea Oneacer, I was only using propane gas. I did remove the bolt in the tube/casing and sprayed penetrating oil in there, but only left it for about 24 hrs. Maybe I should give it more time. Thanks bud


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Also, if you have an air hammer, you could try placing a piece of flat stock against the outer casing, and then slightly hammer that piece of stock, thus giving it a "shock effect", assisting it possibly in breaking free. The steel stock will prevent from deforming the outer casing with a direct hammer blow. As always, be careful as not to create any damage.


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## KJSeller (Nov 3, 2021)

I would remove the gas and oil and tip the blower onto each side on the wheels to allow the penetrating fluid to run down In that shaft on each side. I would first use a wire brush to clean the rust etc. Spray it liberally and leave it soak for 1-2 days on each side. Keep going back ever few hours and spray it and let it creep in. As Oneacer says also hit that with a hammer or impact to shock the metal without damaging it. You could also use some map gas to heat it up and then spray some more penetrating fluid in there. It will probably come apart. Just takes time and patience.


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Have you tried taking it apart to verify if BOTH half axles are frozen in the tube or if only 1 is frozen?


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## KJSeller (Nov 3, 2021)

CO Snow said:


> Have you tried taking it apart to verify if BOTH half axles are frozen in the tube or if only 1 is frozen?


I think it's seized on him and he's having issues taking it apart.


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## vangasman (Oct 21, 2021)

Donnyboy73 has a you tube on this, lots of heat. He doesn't do a complete diassambly and it looks like those gears may be siezed on yours as well. Lots of anti sieze if you get it apart.


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

I have a similar issue with the inner/outer driveline shaft on my John Deere TRS27......I plan on soaking the shaft in a tub of Evapo-rust for a few days or weeks this summer.


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## jbtvt (Dec 29, 2016)

For those wheels to function independently wouldn't the solid axle be split in the middle? If so I wouldn't cut the axles regardless, worst case you could cut the sheath right in the middle and put each half on an anvil or something and beat it until all the rust breaks loose and crumbles out. Should come apart easily at that point. Then all you need is a hollow tube to join them. But before that, pick up a dual tank torch set, fuel with oxygen. Acetylene if you want to splurge or at least oxy/mapp, get much, much more heat that way than plain fuel alone burning in atmospheric oxygen. Liquid wrench is the best penetrant according to Project Farm's testing, and since I saw his vid and made the switch I'd have to agree with that.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I bought Liquid Wrench when I ran out of Trizol ..... Works fine for me, and it is sold locally.

I also use their Silicone Spray 914, and their Chain and Cable lube ....


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## vangasman (Oct 21, 2021)

Got to thinking, maybe a couple of well placed grease fittings in that center tube.


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## jbtvt (Dec 29, 2016)

Oneacer said:


> I bought Liquid Wrench when I ran out of Trizol ..... Works fine for me, and it is sold locally.
> 
> I also use their Silicone Spray 914, and their Chain and Cable lube ....


Same, good products. Have you tried buying any penetrant lately? I'm in NH and can't find it anywhere, was just trying to reorder the other day and everywhere says out of stock - Walmart, tsc, lowes. Amazon has it...for $15/can 😲


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## RickCoMatic (Dec 29, 2020)

I'm guessing, ... the best course of action would be to find a YouTube "Welding and Angle-grinding Artist!"
Carefully.
Surgically.
Have one remove the shaft ... complete with bushes and hub.
Get that puppy off the chassis where you can apply heat and pressures unknown to mere mortals.
Once everything's copasetic ... 
Have the sheet metal reinstalled and body worked like it never happened.
Once restored ... you'll be blowing snow with precision steering for years to come.
Don't skimp on the restoration budget.
If its really seized-up bad, ...
You could toss that sucker in a swimming pool filled with PB Blaster for a weekend and it won't budge.


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