# Bought a Toro 210R with missing choke lever



## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Hi All, 

New to the forum and just bought my first snowblower (used). I paid $75 for a Power Clear 210R that is missing a choke lever. The seller told me the machine ran great before the lever broke off and that replacing it was not a big deal. Before buying, I saw the plastic lever part online for 2 or 3 bucks so figured all OK but now that I have the machine I'm wondering if that small plastic part is all I'm going to need. 

I've taken off the plastic cover that the choke lever usually sticks out of and here are a few pictures: 





















The part I bought is this: 










I haven't gotten the lever yet but I'm thinking that perhaps the hole on the lever simply connects to the gold hole to the left of the center. But as I don't really know how a choke works, I don't see how that's going to actually do anything. Does the screw perhaps control the choke internally or am I completely off? 

If anyone has any input I'd appreciate. 

Thanks!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm pretty sure you need the shaft the choke plate and the lever attach to. It looks like the part of the shaft that sticks up and the lever attaches to sheared off.

With this information off the ID label I might be able to be more specific.
.


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## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Thanks for your reply. I'm now hoping this is fixable and I didn't throw away money for nothing..

Here is the label. Thanks again!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I think you might need this:
Amazon.com : Briggs & Stratton 801418 Choke Shaft Kit : Lawn And Garden Tool Replacement Parts : Patio, Lawn & Garden

There is a screw and washer in the diagrams too. I am not 100% certain as the diagram shows 2 choke shafts based on serial number. I hope this is the correct one because the other is no longer available.

I found the numbers by putting your Toro number here:
Lawn Mower Parts, Small Engine Parts & Much More! | PartsTree.com - Briggs, MTD, Toro, Cub Cadet, Husqvarna, Troy-bilt...

That shows the engine number:
Lawn Mower Parts, Small Engine Parts & Much More! | PartsTree.com - Briggs, MTD, Toro, Cub Cadet, Husqvarna, Troy-bilt...

And then I just googled the choke shaft numbers.

You might be able to rig something up to turn the choke lever, Either drill a small whole into it or glue something to it. Maybe even do both and drill a small pin into the middle of the 2 pieces before gluing it. At the very least get the machine running before spending money on it. You can manually operate the choke by hand or a small screwdriver for now. Or will the choke not "snap" into place as it is?


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## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Thanks. I will purchase the shaft kit and see if I can find a matching screw. Regarding the diagram, the angle unfortunately doesn't show how the shaft kit or choke lever attach to the engine. Any ideas on where I might be able to get some directions or diagrams?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

To me it looks similar to the Honda choke setup. Pull the plate out with some needle nose pliers, pull the rest of the shaft out the top, slide the new shaft in, slide the new plate in, then the lever should fit on top of the new shaft and pivot on that brass post.

This might be of some help for diagrams on how it should look:
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_lawn-boy_plastic_carb.asp


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

+1 Just a matter of taking your time.


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## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Shryp said:


> To me it looks similar to the Honda choke setup. Pull the plate out with some needle nose pliers, pull the rest of the shaft out the top, slide the new shaft in, slide the new plate in, then the lever should fit on top of the new shaft and pivot on that brass post.
> 
> This might be of some help for diagrams on how it should look:
> Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton/Toro/Lawn-Boy 2-Cycle Plastic Carburetor


I appreciate the responses. I'm studying the photos in this link and I just can't see how they relate to the pictures I posted. Where is the plate? 

I feel like a bit of an idiot here but when it's suggested I manually operate the choke with a screwdriver, I realize I don't know where the choke is! In my photos, is it the black plastic area in back by the spring? 

And no, the machine will not start at moment. Seller told me it's related to the choke. 

Thanks for your patience in answering these questions. If worse comes to worse, I'll take parts I ordered to a repair shop. That said, I would definitely prefer to learn this and fix it myself.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The meat of the choke is the plate itself. That is what cuts off air and causes the engine to pull in more fuel.

Using a screwdriver on the shaft might work but I don't know if you have the access. You could also use it on the plate itself to flip it open after it starts.

Before you start ordering parts I'd try to close that plate (it's closed in the photo) and try to get it running. It should start and then kill in a little bit as it's too rich if you aren't able to get that plate open a position or two.


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## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Ok, strike what I wrote above. I just went out to garage to have another look and I now see the broken plastic shaft (which I can pull out) and the plates. I'm still unsure how to operate the choke manually but parts should be here by Wed and I'll give it all a go and come back here if I can't figure it out. Again, thanks.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

There is going to be a problem with that though. The choke plate won't stay open or closed as there isn't the physical contact with this post that keeps the choke in position buy pushing into detentes in the plastic lever.

Might not be able to hold it closed to get it started 
Update:
Like the throttle if the spring broke, The choke will just flop around and you can't "set" it in any position with a screwdriver or anything else and hope it stays, it won't. Sorry for the confusion, just didn't notice that at first.


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## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> There is going to be a problem with that though. The choke plate won't stay open or closed as there isn't the physical contact with this post that keeps the choke in position buy pushing into detentes in the plastic lever.
> 
> Might not be able to hold it closed to get it started
> Update:
> Like the throttle if the spring broke, The choke will just flop around and you can't "set" it in any position with a screwdriver or anything else and hope it stays, it won't. Sorry for the confusion, just didn't notice that at first.


Sorry, I'm a bit confused by what you wrote. I understand that if the plates won't stay in a particular position, the choke will not be working and it may not start. I assume the lever holds the plates open or closed. I'm not what you mean by the gold post though (that you arrowed in the photo). Is that what the lever connects to? So are you saying that this is not going to work without the new parts? Or are you saying I have a bigger problem even with the parts I ordered? 

Thanks


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The plastic lever physically engages that gold post and that's what holds the choke in any position. Without the plastic lever there to be held in place by the post the choke plate will just flop around.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

garimh said:


> Ok the choke plate that Shryp refers to opening with a screwdriver is the circular yellow part in your pic. Right now the choke is full closed or on and if you press on the left half side you will see it will open and you can see further inside the carb, that is open choke or off.
> Now the tricky part for you is to start your engine and it can be started with what you have provided you check a few things first.
> 
> First remove your spark plug and still attached to your spark plug wire have the metal of you spark plug touch around the spark plug hole and put you switch on to start and crank it over looking at the base of your plug and see if there is a small blue spark, it might be hard to see if the ambient light is strong so you should try to have it darker to see the spark. if there is spark then check if the plug is sooted black if so you can try and clean with a wire brush or better buy a new one. Put the spark plug back in by hand initially to make sure it's not cross thread and tighten it tight but not overly tight. Then try to start it with throttle full and choke closed like your picture, if it starts then as Shryp mentioned take a small screwdriver to open the choke letting the engine warm up. If it runs good at different throttle settings from idle to full throttle then you can go ahead and purchase the parts to have it fully functional. Btw sorry if I have inserted too much details as some you might already know. Good Luck
> ...


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## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Thanks to everyone for your help. Parts arrived, choke is now repaired and machine seems to be running OK. 

We had some really wet snow in NJ today (it's almost like heavy slush) and have to say that my Toro doesn't throw this wet stuff very far at all. I'd say less than 5 feet. Is that simply because the snow is so wet or is there something else I should look at repairing? 

Thanks


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I don't believe it till I see it.  Toss up some photos of your handiwork


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

garimh said:


> Thanks to everyone for your help. Parts arrived, choke is now repaired and machine seems to be running OK.
> 
> We had some really wet snow in NJ today (it's almost like heavy slush) and have to say that my Toro doesn't throw this wet stuff very far at all. I'd say less than 5 feet. Is that simply because the snow is so wet or is there something else I should look at repairing?
> 
> Thanks


Consider yourself lucky if it is throwing heavy slush five feet. Heavy wet snow usually looks like cookie dough being squeezed out of the chute. Your auger belt might possibly be slipping, but I doubt it.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

It could be a number of things. It could just be normal and everything is working it's best but checking the condition and tension of the belt as Grunt suggested would be a good idea. Also seeing the condition of the auger/impellers surface and the clearance to the housing. Since a single tends to pull itself by beating the ground they will slowly wear down over time. Also a chance the carb needs to be cleaned and or adjusted to get it's full power.

But again, it might just be as good as it gets with slush. Hard to tell without seeing it in action.


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## garimh (Nov 21, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I don't believe it till I see it.  Toss up some photos of your handiwork


Here is finished photo:











Turns out I didn't need the plate as the old one was fine. To get it out, I removed the screws on side and removed that front piece and then pulled plate out of the slit in middle of shaft. It's clipped in there pretty good and although I wasn't worried about breaking the already broken shaft, it was tricky getting the new one in because of those clips (it doesn't slide in and out easily). I was glad I took before pictures as well as the spring on the back left of earlier photo popped off during the process and without the picture, I wouldn't have known where to re-attach it. I'm still missing the screw to hold the lever in but doesn't seem like I really need it. 

All in all, a challenge as I didn't even know what a choke was before I started this so a good feeling to get it all back together and have it start up! 

Snow now melted so will have to wait to see if the snow throwing distance is really a problem. Thanks again for all the help.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Happy to jump in and very glad you have a working, powered snow removal tool.


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