# Platinum 24 or Honda hss724 new



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I posted in Honda and forgot to post here for balance as there’s an obvious bias in each forum.

current machine is an mtd built unit, 8hp tecumseh, 26”. Nothing special.

the Ariens is more or less an exact replacement, but with a lot more “oomph”. Basic unit, big old engine, everything ya need, nothing you don’t. When I see a platinum I think classic muscle car. This will be a faster machine than my current. Easily repaired/maintained. Trusted company. Parts readily available. Reasonably priced.

enter the honda. On paper it looks weak, and not up,to snuff. But cause ya know science and engineering it performs,well. Ive seen the videos. it’s got some bells and whistles on the Ariens. Track, hydro, battery start. Can’t omit legendary engine reliability. I can personally attest as we own a Honda generator.

it’s priced more than Ariens but it’s not “out there”. Add the bells to the Ariens and price would be similar.

I think the Ariens will do. But in person what jumped out with the Honda was that everything was on the dash. Simple. Convenient. I know, reach down, prime, choke, start, de choke, go. No,big deal.

i,don’t have track nor hydro. Or electric start. I don’t need it, but would I enjoy it? Wonder why Ariens doesn’t have a 724 competing unit.

I don’t have a need for track but man the Honda,is like a tank through snow.

id like to hear an Ariens perspective.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> I posted in Honda and forgot to post here for balance as there’s an obvious bias in each forum.
> 
> current machine is an mtd built unit, 8hp tecumseh, 26”. Nothing special.
> 
> ...


Not sure what model machines your comparing. I am a Honda fan as well. I drive a Honda, I have a Honda on my boat, and I have two Honda generators. Great engines, clever engineering, and excellent reliability. However, I live in Wiscondin, and I have an 24” Ariens Platinum SHO, that I couldn’t be happier with.
Reliable, well built, and over the top power that can handle any snowfall. I’m going into my 4 th winter with this machine, and I’ve never needed any parts, but I hear there readily available. I did add Ariens drift cutters, and they were at my door in about 3 days from Ariens. Both brands are machines, and eventually they will need repairs/maintenance.
the Honda owners manuals are vague, and offer you the basics (at least for my generators & boat motors). The Ariens owners manuals are detailed & complete. Ariens has videos available for basic repairs (belt replacement, cable replacement etc.) that are very easy to follow. I’m not aware of any repair videos Honda provides. If you want to do something more extensive in the line of repairs say 15 years from now, you can download a much more technical service manual from the Ariens website. (I downloaded one, printed it, and keep it with my owners manual). I’m not aware of any “no charge” shop maintainable manuals available for Honda. I know if I wanted one for my my boat motor, or my generators, they were available in paper copy only, and they charged a premium price for them. Personally, I think they are both excellent machines, and you can’t go wrong with either one of them. The Honda is just more expensive up front, and parts/manuals are more expensive down the line. I’d love to let you try my Ariens as for a large powerful machine it’s super easy to turn/handle, and throws snow like crazy. Seeing as that’s impossible here’s a link to a video on my YouTube channel of it in action, and let us know which one you go with.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> I posted in Honda and forgot to post here for balance as there’s an obvious bias in each forum.
> 
> current machine is an mtd built unit, 8hp tecumseh, 26”. Nothing special.
> 
> ...


I read your thread in the Honda forum and all the help provided by the Honda experts there. I have no experience with Honda snowblowers so I cannot comment on them, except that they must be very good machines. Ariens is also a very good make of snowblower. 

What I remember is that your only real requirement is the bucket width at 24" due to storage issues. I don't know your budget limit or the size of your snow clearing area and if getting the job finished quicker is important to you. Maintenance and dealer availability is usually always an issue.

Your budget appears sufficient to get either of the selected machines, so the cheaper Ariens is not a deciding factor. In dealing with the size of your clearing area and the speed the Ariens has a significantly bigger engine so you can use a higher gear (walk faster) in the snow to get more snow throughput. Throwing distance is usually irrelevant and doesn't factor into throughput. The chassis and bucket is made of thick steel, just a bit lighter than the Pro model so it acts a strong platform to stabilize the machine going through heavy snow and particularly the EOD ice and frozen snow. It's just strong all together.

The layout of the controls of the Ariens is user friendly in operation and looks very nice in its latest configuration, looked at earlier this year. For starting the Ariens has an automatic de-compression so pull starting is easy as for most machines. Electric 120 volt starting is standard so no issue there. The standard fuel primer is very good, particularly for cold weather starting; when you get to -30 C and colder through -40 C the primer is golden, but must be close to the carb, hence the location of all starting features. The 12 volt starting needs extra maintenance for the onboard battery and replacement periodically; but if you need it (like me) then its great.

The Ariens uses the light duty disc transmission because that is all you need with the wheel drive system. The tires are winter specific and provide excellent traction on snow and glare ice. For the track drive a hydro drive system is required. The Ariens disc transmission is very good and very fast and has no downsides. I have not found the hydro transmission to be a particular user advantage; if you take away the hype. The Ariens Auto Turn is a spectacular feature in intuitive ease of use. It just moves the machine to where you want it to go with no effort. I do a lot of turning at the EOD and the garage end of the driveway (times 5) and Auto Turn is effortless and allows chute turning at same time. I found the stock steel skid shoes to be unsuitable for my 2015 Platinum 30 SHO which is very heavy on the bucket. The plastic Ariens skid shoes were a big improvement. But now the cast iron super heavy duty Ariens Pro skid shoes seem even better. Others have commented on the improvement also. None of the Ariens skid shoes mar a paver driveway

The engine is jetted correctly from the factory so after the engine starts (usually on first pull) the choke can be turned off immediately and engine just purrs at about 3,400 rpm until it warms up (about 30 seconds or so) and then goes to normal governed speed. I have tried changing the main jet, but no improvement. The engine is good on fuel but the small fuel tank is not a good feature; but I do 5 driveways of about 60 ft each.

The Ariens maintenance is pretty easy. Oil drains out the rear port without any fuss at all. Oil is added with the top mounted fill tube and dipstick. LCT doesn't have the 5 hour initial oil replacement, more like the first month and every 40 hours of use or minimum once per year thereafter. There are grease nipples in the auger shaft and for the transmission internal gear bearings. The double impeller belts are a matched pair and last a very long time and there is a simple belt tension adjustment. 

The Ariens Platinum 24 is a very powerful snowblower with all the right equipment to get the job done quickly and effortlessly at an affordable price.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> Not sure what model machines your comparing. I am a Honda fan as well. I drive a Honda, I have a Honda on my boat, and I have two Honda generators. Great engines, clever engineering, and excellent reliability. However, I live in Wiscondin, and I have an 24” Ariens Platinum SHO, that I couldn’t be happier with.
> Reliable, well built, and over the top power that can handle any snowfall. I’m going into my 4 th winter with this machine, and I’ve never needed any parts, but I hear there readily available. I did add Ariens drift cutters, and they were at my door in about 3 days from Ariens. Both brands are machines, and eventually they will need repairs/maintenance.
> the Honda owners manuals are vague, and offer you the basics (at least for my generators & boat motors). The Ariens owners manuals are detailed & complete. Ariens has videos available for basic repairs (belt replacement, cable replacement etc.) that are very easy to follow. I’m not aware of any repair videos Honda provides. If you want to do something more extensive in the line of repairs say 15 years from now, you can download a much more technical service manual from the Ariens website. (I downloaded one, printed it, and keep it with my owners manual). I’m not aware of any “no charge” shop maintainable manuals available for Honda. I know if I wanted one for my my boat motor, or my generators, they were available in paper copy only, and they charged a premium price for them. Personally, I think they are both excellent machines, and you can’t go wrong with either one of them. The Honda is just more expensive up front, and parts/manuals are more expensive down the line. I’d love to let you try my Ariens as for a large powerful machine it’s super easy to turn/handle, and throws snow like crazy. Seeing as that’s impossible here’s a link to a video on my YouTube channel of it in action, and let us know which one you go with.


I have viewed your videos before. Always enjoyed them.

your old toro looks like the same engine as mine? (Tecumseh hm80 8hp). How big of an improvement is the platinum?

truth be told my current blower works just fine. My wife says to keep using it until it’s done. I’d normally agree. But on my mind is since it’s a 1981 model each year has me thinking “is this the year”?

Covid has complicated it further, I.e in the past I can simply go and buy a new blower. My city is “wholesale city” where most are tight with their cash. I’d normally have no problem buying a platinum the next day. (People want the cheapest blower from HD).

supply chains, etc have changed things. I was unable to buy a blower last year. Has me wanting to be proactive. I can always have the old girl do backyard deck duty. She’d have to be tarped outside. Or I could build a small shed 

I do appreciate Ariens online support, I.e manuals and videos.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> I read your thread in the Honda forum and all the help provided by the Honda experts there. I have no experience with Honda snowblowers so I cannot comment on them, except that they must be very good machines. Ariens is also a very good make of snowblower.
> 
> What I remember is that your only real requirement is the bucket width at 24" due to storage issues. I don't know your budget limit or the size of your snow clearing area and if getting the job finished quicker is important to you. Maintenance and dealer availability is usually always an issue.
> 
> ...


unfortunately I’m limited to a 24” model. Otherwise my choice would be an Ariens pro 28, or 32. Such is life.

what is this decompression for,starting? First I’ve heard of it (Ariens). I know larger chainsaws have a button to decompress.

the Honda blowers have no prime (nor does our Honda generator). But we see -30, -40 most winters. Prime is good.

autoturn pushes me towards Ariens. I see the cable steering an added thing “to do” and also maintain down the line. Hydro I can do without. Never had it, and I can fix a disk drive all day, all night Fairly quickly. Auto turn just turn and go. And I’m betting it’s a big improvement over my fixed axle. 

i,can also stock extra belts (dual belt auger is a nice touch), etc cheaply.

I would try out the stock skids, and go,from there.

one negative of the Honda is the oil fill. Same,as our genny. It’s kind of a pain. Much prefer the dipstick fill. And oil change on an Ariens way easier than Honda unless you buy the drainzit thingie.

I don’t have a grease gun. Never needed one. Any recommendations ? Something from Ukrainian tire, or princess auto?


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> unfortunately I’m limited to a 24” model. Otherwise my choice would be an Ariens pro 28, or 32. Such is life.
> 
> what is this decompression for,starting? First I’ve heard of it (Ariens). I know larger chainsaws have a button to decompress.
> 
> ...


Yes the decompression is for easier pull starting. It is automatic. At low cranking speed a mechanism on the camshaft lifts the exhaust valve off its seat to lower compression in the cylinder head to make starting easier. When the engine starts the camshaft moves much more quickly and decompression stops for full power.
The primer has taken many forms over the years. Ariens uses a small bulb that pushes air into the carb float bowl to pressurize it and force fuel up through the emulsion tube and into the carb throat. The raw fuel provides extra gas to start anytime but particularly when ambient temp is very cold. Makes starting easier, just like squirting gas into intake to check for a fuel or spark issue.

Auto Turn has used the same differential since about 2015 on the Platinum line. The Pro uses a heavier aluminum diff. In about 2017 the Platinum and others changed to a shorter wheelbase (same as Pro models) to improve AutoTurn response. So a new Platinum is going to perform very well at turning and also in a straight line. A perfect system with no maintenance. A fixed axle is very hard and slow to turn and needs a large area. AutoTurn pivots on the spot effortlesslyso you don’t get tired.

I use engines for summer work that have the low fill port and I find it such a pain. Checking oil level every time you use the machine is not a nice feature. Ariens knows best with the high mounted dipstick.

I use a Canadian Tire pistol grip grease gun, works ok. The zerks on the auger shaft are pressed in so i use a fitting with a strong end that pushes the ball out of the way and fully grease the shaft. Others use a spring release type fitting that encompasses the nipple, but releases the nipple easily.

Good luck with your choice.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> Yes the decompression is for easier pull starting. It is automatic. At low cranking speed a mechanism on the camshaft lifts the exhaust valve off its seat to lower compression in the cylinder head to make starting easier. When the engine starts the camshaft moves much more quickly and decompression stops for full power.
> The primer has taken many forms over the years. Ariens uses a small bulb that pushes air into the carb float bowl to pressurize it and force fuel up through the emulsion tube and into the carb throat. The raw fuel provides extra gas to start anytime but particularly when ambient temp is very cold. Makes starting easier, just like squirting gas into intake to check for a fuel or spark issue.
> 
> Auto Turn has used the same differential since about 2015 on the Platinum line. The Pro uses a heavier aluminum diff. In about 2017 the Platinum and others changed to a shorter wheelbase (same as Pro models) to improve AutoTurn response. So a new Platinum is going to perform very well at turning and also in a straight line. A perfect system with no maintenance. A fixed axle is very hard and slow to turn and needs a large area. AutoTurn pivots on the spot effortlesslyso you don’t get tired.
> ...


yup auto turn will make snow removal a bit easier rather than muscling the machine.

so, I’m new to,grease guns. Was thinking the lock n lube quick release?? That what you call spring release?

if I recall you have a “pin” or pointy tip?









Bravex Grease Gun, Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun Set 14oz with 18 Inch Flex Hose,6000 PSI …, Grease Guns - Amazon Canada


Bravex Grease Gun, Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun Set 14oz with 18 Inch Flex Hose,6000 PSI … in Grease Guns.



www.amazon.ca





this grease gun has a pointy attachment. Is this what you mean? Just poke it into,the zerk instead of around it?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> so, I’m new to,grease guns. Was thinking the lock n lube quick release?


Yup, Quick Release rocks... These are what I use with 6 jaws:


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> what is this decompression for,starting?


Something you can thank the Honda engineers for in its current form... Originally a Tecumseh engineer developed it. Used by pretty much everyone now. One of the later Honda update patents is attached, as well as the 1964 Tecumseh patent.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> yup auto turn will make snow removal a bit easier rather than muscling the machine.
> 
> so, I’m new to,grease guns. Was thinking the lock n lube quick release?? That what you call spring release?
> 
> ...


The lock n lube type of grease nipple fitting is what I call the spring release. It must work well because so many members seem to use them. Here is a pic of the fitting I use to grease directly through the nipple:









such as the constant velocity U joint used on 4x4 front driveshaft. This is heavy enough to push the nipple ball bearing inward and flow grease where it is wanted. You can buy a shorter version in Canadian Tire. I keep that fitting on a dedicated grease gun because it is very useful. The grease gun you pictured is similar to the few I have. I don't think the sharp pointy fitting in that picture is what I have seen since the sharp end is too pointed and may damage the ball bearing, but I don't know for sure. You will want in addition to a grease gun or two some small tubs of specialized grease. Waterproof (usually marine grade) wheel bearing grease is good for the wheel axles where the wheels slide onto the axles to prevent rust buildup to seize the wheel to axle.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> I have viewed your videos before. Always enjoyed them.
> 
> your old toro looks like the same engine as mine? (Tecumseh hm80 8hp). How big of an improvement is the platinum?
> 
> ...


I love my two old 8 Hp Techumse engines. I wish they were still in business. I digress, your question was about power on my 2019 SHO. It’s night and day. My two old gals always slip a little when you engage the auger with the single belt. The twin belts on the Ariens deliver instantaneous power. It’s doesn’t sound like much, but it’s a definite upgrade when you feel it. I’ve been told the engine on the 24” SHO I have is the equivalent to about a 12 Hp. It’s a lot more power than the old 8 horse. I have pushed my new blower in extreme conditions, and never been able to bog the engine to the point of being anywhere near killing it in 1st gear. As you know, in wet heavy EOD snow, you can bog the Techumse to the point of having to slow down slower than 1st gear, or it will shut off. The Ariens with its larger engine is definitely the V8 of the snowblower engines. However, it does use more gas than the old 8hp. The biggest difference is from the auto-turn. No having to wrestle the machine when turning like with the fixed axel. No triggers to screw around with in subzero temps, just easily turn the machine, point it where you want to go, and it locks both wheels and delivers instantaneously. It’s really an impressive feature !


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> I love my two old 8 Hp Techumse engines. I wish they were still in business. I digress, your question was about power on my 2019 SHO. It’s night and day. My two old gals always slip a little when you engage the auger with the single belt. The twin belts on the Ariens deliver instantaneous power. It’s doesn’t sound like much, but it’s a definite upgrade when you feel it. I’ve been told the engine on the 24” SHO I have is the equivalent to about a 12 Hp. It’s a lot more power than the old 8 horse. I have pushed my new blower in extreme conditions, and never been able to bog the engine to the point of being anywhere near killing it in 1st gear. As you know, in wet heavy EOD snow, you can bog the Techumse to the point of having to slow down slower than 1st gear, or it will shut off. The Ariens with its larger engine is definitely the V8 of the snowblower engines. However, it does use more gas than the old 8hp. The biggest difference is from the auto-turn. No having to wrestle the machine when turning like with the fixed axel. No triggers to screw around with in subzero temps, just easily turn the machine, point it where you want to go, and it locks both wheels and delivers instantaneously. It’s really an impressive feature !


ive never used cable steering. It doesn’t look like so,e thing I’d like.

I watched a YouTube,video and buddy complained about auto turn. His machine may have been the older one with the issues.

do,you have to lift the bucket slightly when turning? Or just turn? 
how does autoturn work for a curved part where my driveway sweeps into the sidewalk to my stairs?


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> ive never used cable steering. It doesn’t look like so,e thing I’d like.
> 
> I watched a YouTube,video and buddy complained about auto turn. His machine may have been the older one with the issues.
> 
> ...


When I make the turn at the top and bottom of the driveway, I sometimes make a slight chute adjustment to put the snow where I want it, and avoid hitting the mailbox, or depending on wind, throw some snow into the open garage, door, or onto my front sidewalk. When your fiddling with a trigger, it slows you down as you can only do so much with your hands and still hang onto the machine. I help my neighbor out and blow his snow as he only has one leg. He has a curved sidewalk going up to his front porch, and it’s no more difficult than it was when I used the olds 8hp Simplicity here (before buying the Ariens). I have poly skids on both machines as I take my machines on a wooden deck in the back yard and don’t want to scratch it up. You have to spend about as much effort with either machine following the curve especially the first few snows (until you develop an edge to follow).you don’t have to lift the bucket at all with the autoturn. The machine easily pivots. It’s actually easier not lifting the bucket. With s 180 degree turn it’s easily a one hand operation (if your not blowing snow on the turn for some reason). The machine is around 360 lbs, and my wife can handle it pretty easily. (she struggles turning the fixed axle machines and avoids them as a result. Moving the Ariens around in tge garage is super easy compared to the fixed axel machine. I think you’d like the autoturn.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> The lock n lube type of grease nipple fitting is what I call the spring release. It must work well because so many members seem to use them. Here is a pic of the fitting I use to grease directly through the nipple:
> 
> View attachment 198867
> 
> ...


so something more like this:









LockNLube Narrow Needle Dispenser, Grease Guns - Amazon Canada


LockNLube Narrow Needle Dispenser in Grease Guns.



www.amazon.ca





this would be good for all zeris? If I buy the platinum it will literally be the only thing I need the gun for. This needle dispenser is cheaper than the quick lock too.

perhaps princess auto will have as well. Only problem is princess auto is like Costco. Go in for a grease gun, come out spending 500 bucks, lol


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> so something more like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, that is the same as mine. It is displayed with a zerk fitting so it can be used on a temporary basis. So I would use it to grease the two auger shaft zerks and use the regular gun fitting for the zerk on right side of machine (near axle) to grease the idler shaft internal parts for gear and chain sprocket lubrication. That zerk is threaded so an easy push on and pull off with the standard grease fitting on the gun.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> Yes, that is the same as mine. It is displayed with a zerk fitting so it can be used on a temporary basis. So I would use it to grease the two auger shaft zerks and use the regular gun fitting for the zerk on right side of machine (near axle) to grease the idler shaft internal parts for gear and chain sprocket lubrication. That zerk is threaded so an easy push on and pull off with the standard grease fitting on the gun.


sounds like a good plan.

so I read one of your responses for a “break in” oil change. You figured about a month.

what if I buy a new machine and never use it? What if I use it once? Twice?

5 hours, or once month,whatever comes first? Never owned a brand new machine before


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> 5 hours, or once month,whatever comes first? Never owned a brand new machine before


Kinda depends on which machine you get... Honda recommends a 20 hour break-in period, although many of us have done it sooner at 10 hours or so. You don't want to do it too soon because you want the mating of the rings to the cylinder walls to complete. We like to switch over to full synthetic 5W-30 after at least 10 hours are on the clock. And then oil changes once a year at the end of the season after that.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> Kinda depends on which machine you get... Honda recommends a 20 hour break-in period, although many of us have done it sooner at 10 hours or so. You don't want to do it too soon because you want the mating of the rings to the cylinder walls to complete. We like to switch over to full synthetic 5W-30 after at least 10 hours are on the clock. And then oil changes once a year at the end of the season after that.
> View attachment 198906


i,get the hours thing. But small engines are different. My car is changed every 5k or,6 months. Cars,get driven lots.

but,what if I,use,my blower once this year? 1 hour. Do I wait until next year? What about all the,”stuff”? In the oil.

low usage,stuff,is,confusing.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> But small engines are different.
> but,what if I,use,my blower once this year? 1 hour.
> What about all the,”stuff”? In the oil.


I think I covered that... But if you seriously were to use your new machine for only one hour before mid-winter, I would find a bunch of neighbors and offer to blow their snow for them! I don't think that's likely based on the long term weather forecasts, but who knows? I always change out the oil at the end of the season on my machines, but this year I'm making an exception for my HR214 mower, since I only put a half-hour on the clock this past weekend since its last oil change and the oil looks like it just came out of the bottle. Of course, that machine is now 40 years old, too.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> sounds like a good plan.
> 
> so I read one of your responses for a “break in” oil change. You figured about a month.
> 
> ...


Everyone has a different opinion on the timing of the first oil change. A month is the LCT recomendation for its engines. Other opinions are for 5 hours. For my Platinum in 2015 I followed LCT recommendation of a month, for my Pro my dealer said 5 hours so i changed the oil at 7 hours. LCT still say within a month. The important thing is to change the oil to eliminate any debris.

The modern engines have so much better production tolerances and finishing techniques so the surfaces do not have the roughness of bygone eras.

Current engines do not need a break-in period to smooth the surfaces, So you just use the machine as recommended by the manufacturer, which is full throttle when blowing snow. I drop the throttle to idle and let it run for a short time then switch it off.

You can use elapsed hours of operation as a guide to engine hours and running without snow is a way of accumulating operating hours. You can change the oil after a few hours to flush any debris out. Then change the oil after 40 hours (LCT directions) or end of season whichever comes first. Don’t let used engine oil sit in your machine all summer because the products of combustion contain acids and water from condensation that will not be kind to your engine’s internal parts.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> I think I covered that... But if you seriously were to use your new machine for only one hour before mid-winter, I would find a bunch of neighbors and offer to blow their snow for them! I don't think that's likely based on the long term weather forecasts, but who knows? I always change out the oil at the end of the season on my machines, but this year I'm making an exception for my HR214 mower, since I only put a half-hour on the clock this past weekend since its last oil change and the oil looks like it just came out of the bottle. Of course, that machine is now 40 years old, too.


it was covered, kinda, yes and no. That’s why I’m,asking, lol.

I think the confusion is oil changing in general, and switching to,synthetic. I thought Dino/synthetic was a thing of the past.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> Everyone has a different opinion on the timing of the first oil change. A month is the LCT recomendation for its engines. Other opinions are for 5 hours. For my Platinum in 2015 I followed LCT recommendation of a month, for my Pro my dealer said 5 hours so i changed the oil at 7 hours. LCT still say within a month. The important thing is to change the oil to eliminate any debris.
> 
> The modern engines have so much better production tolerances and finishing techniques so the surfaces do not have the roughness of bygone eras.
> 
> ...


i read the lct manual as 1st oil,change after 1 month, then every 6 months, or 40 hours. That would be spring time for storage, then again in the fall, but if it sits with clean oil until fall I don’t see why you’d change it. I think they mean if it’s used all year. Once it’s used, then the 6 month clock starts.

I re read an earlier post. You use grease for the wheel axles. Manual says oil. Some people use anti sieze. Doesn’t really matter does it?


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> i read the lct manual as 1st oil,change after 1 month, then every 6 months, or 40 hours. That would be spring time for storage, then again in the fall, but if it sits with clean oil until fall I don’t see why you’d change it. I think they mean if it’s used all year. Once it’s used, then the 6 month clock starts.
> 
> I re read an earlier post. You use grease for the wheel axles. Manual says oil. Some people use anti sieze. Doesn’t really matter does it?


If you change the oil in the spring then you don’t change it in the fall.
I use marine grease for the axles where the wheel hub attaches. Oil is never a good lubricant for the axle and wheel because the snow turns to water and flushes it out. Anti seize is good for nuts and bolts but is flushed out by the water getting into the hub area. I grease the axle at the wheel hub every year. The grease is still there but brown and congealed. There is a keyway in the axle and hub that may fall out and be lost. So you raise the wheel off the ground so it can move then turn the wheel so the keyway is up. Then pull the retaining tab end outward and slide it out of the groove. There will be a circlip on right axle that stays in place and you pull the wheel off. The key should stay in the keyway so remove that and clean everything up. Now with the right wheel removed is the right time to grrase the zerk by the axle on right of chassis. Grease the hub and axle and re-install. The left side the procedure is the same but no circlip because that is the long axle. If you get an Ariens significantly before snow flies you can grease the axles before use. No factory lube is present.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> If you change the oil in the spring then you don’t change it in the fall.
> I use marine grease for the axles where the wheel hub attaches. Oil is never a good lubricant for the axle and wheel because the snow turns to water and flushes it out. Anti seize is good for nuts and bolts but is flushed out by the water getting into the hub area. I grease the axle at the wheel hub every year. The grease is still there but brown and congealed. There is a keyway in the axle and hub that may fall out and be lost. So you raise the wheel off the ground so it can move then turn the wheel so the keyway is up. Then pull the retaining tab end outward and slide it out of the groove. There will be a circlip on right axle that stays in place and you pull the wheel off. The key should stay in the keyway so remove that and clean everything up. Now with the right wheel removed is the right time to grrase the zerk by the axle on right of chassis. Grease the hub and axle and re-install. The left side the procedure is the same but no circlip because that is the long axle. If you get an Ariens significantly before snow flies you can grease the axles before use. No factory lube is present.


wonder,why Ariens,says to use oil for the wheel hubs?

does the Ariens come with any factory lube? I.e augers, drive chain, gears, etc?

I currently use oil for the chain, white lithium for the rod that the disk drive slides along, and this grease for the gear sprockets:






General PDP Template







www.canadiantire.ca


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> wonder,why Ariens,says to use oil for the wheel hubs?
> 
> does the Ariens come with any factory lube? I.e augers, drive chain, gears, etc?
> 
> ...


In the Ariens lube page it points to a grease gun for the axle ends. Oil can for chains etc.

I think the Can Tire grease should be fine for the gears. Same grease for the hex shaft on which the friction wheel runs but a very light coat so grease does not get on drive plate. Move shifter from full forward to full reverse to ensure full coverage.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> In the Ariens lube page it points to a grease gun for the axle ends. Oil can for chains etc.
> 
> I think the Can Tire grease should be fine for the gears. Same grease for the hex shaft on which the friction wheel runs but a very light coat so grease does not get on drive plate. Move shifter from full forward to full reverse to ensure full coverage.


Donyboy uses white lithium for the hex. That’s what I use and no issues. Can’t remember where I saw to use anti sieze for the hubs but I have a tub of grease.

those little wheel “keys” don’t look very stout. My blower has the hitch pin through the axle. Solid.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> Donyboy uses white lithium for the hex. That’s what I use and no issues. Can’t remember where I saw to use anti sieze for the hubs but I have a tub of grease.
> 
> those little wheel “keys” don’t look very stout. My blower has the hitch pin through the axle. Solid.


I’ve used super lube synthetic grease on the axels and keyway slots /axel keys, and the chain (sparingly on the chain) with good results. Donny Boy recommends a high quality anti seize for the axel shaft & parts. Brands like Never-Seez are impervious to fresh and salt water (used in marine applications). Read the label of what your buying to be sure. Anti seize also has tiny solid particles such as glass beads suspended in it which adds to ease of disassembly down the road. If you religiously clean the axel off in spring, your probably going to find using any high quality lubricant will do the job. If you don’t take care of this on a regular basis you’ll be doing a lot of pounding, & cursing some day when you need to remove that rim. Here’s Donny himself talking about this .








This Simple Tip Will Save You Hundreds In Snowblower Repair Costs! #shorts


This Simple Tip Will Save You Hundreds In Snowblower Repair Costs! #shortsYour mechanic will thank you if you do this simple trick and you will save yourself...




youtube.com


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> Donyboy uses white lithium for the hex. That’s what I use and no issues. Can’t remember where I saw to use anti sieze for the hubs but I have a tub of grease.
> 
> those little wheel “keys” don’t look very stout. My blower has the hitch pin through the axle. Solid.


I tried anti seize on a road car of mine at the suspension hub where the wheel is fitted. Correct size wheel hub and rim hub. By spring it washed out and made the wheel difficult to remove. Before that test and afterward I used silicone die-electric grease which is "waterproof" on fall and spring wheel/tire changes. Wheels always just slide off easily with that grease. Synthetic brake grease works well too. Everyone has different experiences that guide their actions. We have high salt usage so my car and snowblower get to go through lots of standing water. Your conditions may be different so you can try what suits you best.

The wheel key is very strong for the job it has to do. It keeps its shape and does not damage the keyway. The amount of torque going through that connection is not very significant so is engineered accordingly as is a snug fit with no looseness. I have used machines using a pin type fitting and they are problematic because its not a tight fit and the wheel hole elongates with use. I cannot stand sloppy wheel fit it is very annoying. Ariens engineering is trustworthy.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> I tried anti seize on a road car of mine at the suspension hub where the wheel is fitted. Correct size wheel hub and rim hub. By spring it washed out and made the wheel difficult to remove. Before that test and afterward I used silicone die-electric grease which is "waterproof" on fall and spring wheel/tire changes. Wheels always just slide off easily with that grease. Synthetic brake grease works well too. Everyone has different experiences that guide their actions. We have high salt usage so my car and snowblower get to go through lots of standing water. Your conditions may be different so you can try what suits you best.
> 
> The wheel key is very strong for the job it has to do. It keeps its shape and does not damage the keyway. The amount of torque going through that connection is not very significant so is engineered accordingly as is a snug fit with no looseness. I have used machines using a pin type fitting and they are problematic because its not a tight fit and the wheel hole elongates with use. I cannot stand sloppy wheel fit it is very annoying. Ariens engineering is trustworthy.


what brand anti seize did you use? I’m using permeatex. I apply a bit when I swap winter/summer tires. Never had a problem. I also use it behind the rotors.

copy that on sloppy wheel fit. Actually my blower is from 1981. There’s a lot of slop everywhere. The pins work, but it’s either both wheels (hard to steer) or I can make one wheel “float” like an open diff kinda easier steering but you loose traction


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> what brand anti seize did you use? I’m using permeatex. I apply a bit when I swap winter/summer tires. Never had a problem. I also use it behind the rotors.
> 
> copy that on sloppy wheel fit. Actually my blower is from 1981. There’s a lot of slop everywhere. The pins work, but it’s either both wheels (hard to steer) or I can make one wheel “float” like an open diff kinda easier steering but you loose traction


I use Permatex silver colour. Also i use direct fit alloy wheels for summer and winter so the problem of corrosion is increased.

You will see a huge improvement in your new snowblower. Good luck.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Town said:


> I use Permatex silver colour. Also i use direct fit alloy wheels for summer and winter so the problem of corrosion is increased.
> 
> You will see a huge improvement in your new snowblower. Good luck.


Did you mean the problem of corrosion is decreases?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I,think he meant with a,hub centric rim you have less space, so corrosion is increased. At least that how I read it.

town roughly where in Canada are you? I’m in the peg and we use salt. I’ve never had a problem using anti seize.

I did have another looksie in the Ariens manual. They do,in fact say to grease the axles. Oil is for the axle closer to,the chassis.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> those little wheel “keys” don’t look very stout. My blower has the hitch pin through the axle. Solid.


Commonly referred to as key stock. Very tough with a high shear strength. It's the same material that's used to drive the pulley from the engine crankshaft.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> Did you mean the problem of corrosion is decreases?


Corrosion is decreased/eliminated with the die-electric grease. This is particularly important with alloy wheels against steel hubs.

What i was talking about increasing is the salty water in the winter causing more corrosion with unprotected alloy wheels against steel hubs. In this situation where i live in Ottawa you have to raise the wheel off the ground and hit the tire near the ground several times with a sledge hammer to free the wheel from the hub. After doing that on all 4 wheels you figure things out quickly as to what works and what doesn’t. Steel wheels are not so much of a problem.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> I,think he meant with a,hub centric rim you have less space, so corrosion is increased. At least that how I read it.
> 
> town roughly where in Canada are you? I’m in the peg and we use salt. I’ve never had a problem using anti seize.
> 
> I did have another looksie in the Ariens manual. They do,in fact say to grease the axles. Oil is for the axle closer to,the chassis.


I live in Ottawa.

There are two places for oil in the lubrication chart, the chain lubrication and the bushings that support the axle.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> I live in Ottawa.
> 
> There are two places for oil in the lubrication chart, the chain lubrication and the bushings that support the axle.


your pro28 rapid track…. is the chute electric, or manual? The specs say quick turn, but the website pics it looks like electric (missing the rod). I really wish Ariens made this model in a 24”. Hands down, it would be my pick. Big motor, non EFI, manual chute, and a track system IMO better than Honda and Yamaha (the fact you can do wheel mode).

I don’t need hydro,but I see the value. It’s the electric chute that turns me off of Honda and Yamaha.

I’m surprised Ariens hasn’t produced a 24” pro rapid track hydro (with manual chute please) to compete with Honda


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> your pro28 rapid track…. is the chute electric, or manual? The specs say quick turn, but the website pics it looks like electric (missing the rod). I really wish Ariens made this model in a 24”. Hands down, it would be my pick. Big motor, non EFI, manual chute, and a track system IMO better than Honda and Yamaha (the fact you can do wheel mode).
> 
> I don’t need hydro,but I see the value. It’s the electric chute that turns me off of Honda and Yamaha.
> 
> I’m surprised Ariens hasn’t produced a 24” pro rapid track hydro (with manual chute please) to compete with Honda


My Pro 28 RapidTrak has the electric chute and deflector. I like it very much, the movement is very quick and the thumb operated control is perfectly placed and makes the package quicker and better than the manual control which is also perfect. The motors are all protected out of the way of snow. I have only used the system for one season but it is easy to get used to after training your thumb to move the control in the correct direction. 

My neighbour has a John Deer 10/30 which is quite old (way before 2015) and it has the electric chute but manual deflector. The chute works perfectly and never a problem so these systems can be made reliable. I have used that machine over the years in maintenance and quite a bit last year, and I like it. Not nearly as fast as the Ariens system but very reliable and easy to use. 

The Pro models are very special so it is too bad they don't make a 24" version. But the Platinum is also very good.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> My Pro 28 RapidTrak has the electric chute and deflector. I like it very much, the movement is very quick and the thumb operated control is perfectly placed and makes the package quicker and better than the manual control which is also perfect. The motors are all protected out of the way of snow. I have only used the system for one season but it is easy to get used to after training your thumb to move the control in the correct direction.
> 
> My neighbour has a John Deer 10/30 which is quite old (way before 2015) and it has the electric chute but manual deflector. The chute works perfectly and never a problem so these systems can be made reliable. I have used that machine over the years in maintenance and quite a bit last year, and I like it. Not nearly as fast as the Ariens system but very reliable and easy to use.
> 
> The Pro models are very special so it is too bad they don't make a 24" version. But the Platinum is also very good.


interesting. I found a 926078 (last years model?) online at a dealer and the picture shows manual chute. I wonder if they added electric?

would you be able to tell me how much clearance there is from the ground to the bottom of the bucket when it’s lifted?

i posted this in the Honda forum as well, but I had a thought. My space limitation is because of a concrete pony wall in my garage. 9” tall, then the stud wall is on top. My thinking is if I place some 2 x lumber on the floor, and drive a tracked unit (Ariens or Honda) up on the boards, AND tilt the bucket I can have the bucket clear the pony wall and I can enjoy a bigger machine!


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> interesting. I found a 926078 (last years model?) online at a dealer and the picture shows manual chute. I wonder if they added electric?
> 
> would you be able to tell me how much clearance there is from the ground to the bottom of the bucket when it’s lifted?
> 
> i posted this in the Honda forum as well, but I had a thought. My space limitation is because of a concrete pony wall in my garage. 9” tall, then the stud wall is on top. My thinking is if I place some 2 x lumber on the floor, and drive a tracked unit (Ariens or Honda) up on the boards, AND tilt the bucket I can have the bucket clear the pony wall and I can enjoy a bigger machine!


Sure. The distance is 5 and a half inches. I put my machine into wheel mode and lifted the bucket until the track was flat on the ground and then supported the bucket and measured from ground to bottom of shave plate. So this simulates the machine in reverse and wheel mode with handles pressed down. There will be some variation in skid shoe height since i have shave plate touching the ground so skid shoes are at same height.

I think the electric chute and deflector are 2022 features. But not certain.

Good luck with your garage feature change @Nan_wpg


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

@Nan_wpg if you come up with a design then i may be able to simulate it and see if my machine can use it.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> @Nan_wpg if you come up with a design then i may be able to simulate it and see if my machine can use it.


ill share what I come up with but fair warning… it will likely be a plain old plywood platform with 4-6” casters. All I need is something 5 inches off the ground. Add the 5.5” of space,and I’ll be over the concrete stub wall.

how,wide are the tracks? (Outside to outside) I.e how wide does my platform have to be?

I think if I get locking castors I can drive the blower onto the platform and wheel into its hiding spot. Actually would make it easier to move in front of my construction heater. 

your pro 28 rapid hydro is basically the Ariens answer to the Honda hss928 but with a bigger motor and Imo a better (versatile) track system

what,was,the main reason for you Ariens over Honda? They are close in price.

and why a pro, and platinum? Just because, or work? Which do you prefer? (I think I know the answer!)


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> ill share what I come up with but fair warning… it will likely be a plain old plywood platform with 4-6” casters. All I need is something 5 inches off the ground. Add the 5.5” of space,and I’ll be over the concrete stub wall.
> 
> how,wide are the tracks? (Outside to outside) I.e how wide does my platform have to be?
> 
> ...


The overall width of tracks is 27 inches. Each track is 5.5 inches wide. So the bucket extends beyond the tracks and the bucket width is extended by the stock drift cutters.

I never looked at Honda. They are feature rich but not designed or executed for me. Must be an excellent machine though.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> ill share what I come up with but fair warning… it will likely be a plain old plywood platform with 4-6” casters. All I need is something 5 inches off the ground. Add the 5.5” of space,and I’ll be over the concrete stub wall.
> 
> how,wide are the tracks? (Outside to outside) I.e how wide does my platform have to be?
> 
> ...


I guess you added the last paragraph since i responded last. In 2015 i looked at Platinum and Pro. The Pro had too light a bucket so chose the Platinum. Wanted tracks but too slow. Last year i decided i wanted a new Pro with RapidTrak and 12 volt electric start. Closest i could get to the Mountaineer was the 926084. The Platinum is going to my son as soon as he clears out his shed to accommodate it. I have gone over the Platinum to ensure it is in perfect shape. I have tried a few machines and Ariens suits me best.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> I guess you added the last paragraph since i responded last. In 2015 i looked at Platinum and Pro. The Pro had too light a bucket so chose the Platinum. Wanted tracks but too slow. Last year i decided i wanted a new Pro with RapidTrak and 12 volt electric start. Closest i could get to the Mountaineer was the 926084. The Platinum is going to my son as soon as he clears out his shed to accommodate it. I have gone over the Platinum to ensure it is in perfect shape. I have tried a few machines and Ariens suits me best.


Interesting that the pro would have a lighter bucket back then.
the 926084 looks like a killer machine.

did you consider the platinum 28 rapid track sho? Slightly smaller engine, and disk drive. A grand less too.

28” opens up a lot more choice. Too much choice. I’ll be dead when I decide, lol. Uhg first world problems!


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> Interesting that the pro would have a lighter bucket back then.
> the 926084 looks like a killer machine.
> 
> did you consider the platinum 28 rapid track sho? Slightly smaller engine, and disk drive. A grand less too.
> ...


The Pro since 2015 (maybe before) and to current model has had a very light bucket. Not in thickness of metal but in how easily it lifts in some snow conditions. One of the reasons i did not buy it in 2015. The RapidTrak solved that in locked track mode and a 12 v battery solved the lightness in wheel mode. The Pro models have major improvements in chassis, bucket and auger system. I was not looking at a tracked Platinum since the Pro has all the features that i want. In addition my dealer put the electric starter on. I would have got the 32” Mountaineer if available.

I would not get a disc drive track machine, not strong enough. I think tracks need hydro transmission. I like bells and whistles on my machine and the Pro has all the important ones.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Town said:


> I would not get a disc drive track machine, not strong enough. I think tracks need hydro transmission.


I love my HydroGear on the Honda, but I got by with a friction disc drive on my Honda HS80K1TAS for 30 years, and I gave my son a Troy-Bilt Tracker 2690 XP that likewise does very well with a friction disc driving trigger-steered tracks.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I think both disk and hydro are fine, and “good enough”. I’ve never had hydro, never “needed” it but I see it’s benefits. Adjusting speed on the fly (when approaching drifted in snow) and forward/reverse while hand still on drive lever.

it wouldn’t be a deal breaker either way.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

tabora said:


> I love my HydroGear on the Honda, but I got by with a friction disc drive on my Honda HS80K1TAS for 30 years, and I gave my son a Troy-Bilt Tracker 2690 XP that likewise does very well with a friction disc driving trigger-steered tracks.


If "getting by" is the standard for comparison then anything is acceptable. But I don't want to spend all day clearing snow; the current 2 hours to do 5 driveways for neighbours is enough when I have other responsibilities. Paying the money to get the right equipment is an investment for me.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> I think both disk and hydro are fine, and “good enough”. I’ve never had hydro, never “needed” it but I see it’s benefits. Adjusting speed on the fly (when approaching drifted in snow) and forward/reverse while hand still on drive lever.
> 
> it wouldn’t be a deal breaker either way.


On that basis you can save a great deal of money by getting an Ariens De Luxe 24 with wheels. It is a very good machine that I have used for 3 weeks last year. Lots of power from the engine good throwing distance and throughput. Easy to use manual controls. Easy servicing and great economy in fuel usage. 

Going up to a Platinum or Pro would be overkill.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I


Town said:


> On that basis you can save a great deal of money by getting an Ariens De Luxe 24 with wheels. It is a very good machine that I have used for 3 weeks last year. Lots of power from the engine good throwing distance and throughput. Easy to use manual controls. Easy servicing and great economy in fuel usage.
> 
> Going up to a Platinum or Pro would be overkill.


i would buy nothing lesser than a deluxe. That’s where Ariens gives you a 14” impeller, dual drive belts. I just figured for a wee bit more you get a platinum. Bigger engine.

I thought you felt,hydro,was hype, and disk was fine? You said no user advantage?

l absolutely could make do with a deluxe. Platinum and pro overkill? Yup 

but I’m also thinking 10-15 years down the road what would I need? What would I wish I had bought? When I’m in my 70’s will I like a track drive? More power? Cable steering? Electric start?

im at point in my life where time is valuable and I can afford “nice” things. I can now buy quality that I should have bought in my youth (but couldn’t afford) and I’d likely still have those items (buy once cry once)


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> I
> 
> 
> i would buy nothing lesser than a deluxe. That’s where Ariens gives you a 14” impeller, dual drive belts. I just figured for a wee bit more you get a platinum. Bigger engine.
> ...


My response was aimed at all you needed was "good enough" machine. This did not seem to encompass expanded possible future needs.

Obviously I did not explain my thoughts on hydro trans very well. I was addressing any advantage in the hydro shifter capabilities. That I did not find shifting on the fly to be a useful feature for me. I only change the position because I chose the wrong speed in the infinite range in the first place. With the disc trans I know which gear to use for the right speed for the snow conditions. In a year of use I have not found a way of selecting the right speed for the snow conditions directly, so I am adjusting the lever to get it right. That is where the hype starts for me. Before selecting reverse I always stop the machine then select reverse. So there is no advantage for me in not having to release the drive clutch to go into reverse. 

Ariens use a secondary gear system for the hydro so the system has great flexibility in tuning the torque transfer to the tracks, and a large track drive wheel allows high speed operation. Tracks add drag to the transmission and hydro trans is well matched to these needs. So the hydro can drive the blower through snow faster than a disc system, which translates to more throughput of snow. So the length of time I am snowblowing is reduced. I am prepared to pay for this higher standard. We get quite frequent snow falls so I like having more capability.

In 2015 the track drive with hydro was acceptable but slow, too slow for me, but with the disc drive the gearing had to be lowered resulting in even slower speeds. Way too slow for my needs. The later introduction of RapidTrak was a game changer. The Pro models paired the RapidTrak with hydro only so with the fantastic spec of Pro models my direction was clear. The best of the best, and no compromise except in price.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> My response was aimed at all you needed was "good enough" machine. This did not seem to encompass expanded possible future needs.
> 
> Obviously I did not explain my thoughts on hydro trans very well. I was addressing any advantage in the hydro shifter capabilities. That I did not find shifting on the fly to be a useful feature for me. I only change the position because I chose the wrong speed in the infinite range in the first place. With the disc trans I know which gear to use for the right speed for the snow conditions. In a year of use I have not found a way of selecting the right speed for the snow conditions directly, so I am adjusting the lever to get it right. That is where the hype starts for me. Before selecting reverse I always stop the machine then select reverse. So there is no advantage for me in not having to release the drive clutch to go into reverse.
> 
> ...


it’s difficult communicating in forums. Things are misread and not taken as intended.

im not looking for a good enough machine. I have one. I want better. All I meant was that up until now , disk was “good enough”.

i Well prepared to spend money on something that will save me time. I’m buying a timemaster mower. Complete overkill for my house. But I hate cutting grass. I’ll pay 2k if that means 20 minutes instead of 45 minutes. Money well spent.

I think Ariens rapidtrack is awesome. Paired with hydro even better. Autoturn I think is better than cable steer (honda).

if only Ariens made a pro 24” model, with rapid track and hydro and add electric start with manual chute we’d have a winner.

was playing around in the garage and if I move the garbage/recycling bins I could actually fit the 28,pro in the garage.

only problem is walking the trash to the front of the garage, and the ensuing “why did you have to buy that stupid snowblower?” All year.

Further to a dolly for the snowblower…. What about something like this:
drive blower onto it, and raise it up to clear my pony wall


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## pink toe beater (5 mo ago)

i am 30 minutes away from winnipeg, i run a small time snow removal in Selkirk MB, its fun keeps me busy. your in winnipeg, my family lives at Douglas Point in the city, so we pick up the same amount of snow.

my question is, how many of you members have seen a Honda 24, and a Ariens 24, throw snow together, side by side???


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

pink toe beater said:


> i am 30 minutes away from winnipeg, i run a small time snow removal in Selkirk MB, its fun keeps me busy. your in winnipeg, my family lives at Douglas Point in the city, so we pick up the same amount of snow.
> 
> my question is, how many of you members have seen a Honda 24, and a Ariens 24, throw snow together, side by side???


i honestly haven’t seen a Honda blower used in Winnipeg. Not once. Tons of Ariens, and toro and simplicity. 
are there Hondas used in Selkirk? West side sells them.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> Not sure what model machines your comparing. I am a Honda fan as well. I drive a Honda, I have a Honda on my boat, and I have two Honda generators. Great engines, clever engineering, and excellent reliability. However, I live in Wiscondin, and I have an 24” Ariens Platinum SHO, that I couldn’t be happier with.
> Reliable, well built, and over the top power that can handle any snowfall. I’m going into my 4 th winter with this machine, and I’ve never needed any parts, but I hear there readily available. I did add Ariens drift cutters, and they were at my door in about 3 days from Ariens. Both brands are machines, and eventually they will need repairs/maintenance.
> the Honda owners manuals are vague, and offer you the basics (at least for my generators & boat motors). The Ariens owners manuals are detailed & complete. Ariens has videos available for basic repairs (belt replacement, cable replacement etc.) that are very easy to follow. I’m not aware of any repair videos Honda provides. If you want to do something more extensive in the line of repairs say 15 years from now, you can download a much more technical service manual from the Ariens website. (I downloaded one, printed it, and keep it with my owners manual). I’m not aware of any “no charge” shop maintainable manuals available for Honda. I know if I wanted one for my my boat motor, or my generators, they were available in paper copy only, and they charged a premium price for them. Personally, I think they are both excellent machines, and you can’t go wrong with either one of them. The Honda is just more expensive up front, and parts/manuals are more expensive down the line. I’d love to let you try my Ariens as for a large powerful machine it’s super easy to turn/handle, and throws snow like crazy. Seeing as that’s impossible here’s a link to a video on my YouTube channel of it in action, and let us know which one you go with.


I rewatched this video. I noticed when you did the area for the garbage cans you “muscled” the machine forward and also noticed tire spin.

this describes me right now. Did you consider tracks? Looking to make things faster and easier. The platinum engine makes it faster. Tracks can be slower, but the Hondas with tracks look like tanks plowing through snow. People even film the Honda plowing on,it’s own.

my only Ariens track option is the compact 24. But I’d give up some power.


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## pink toe beater (5 mo ago)

Nan_wpg said:


> i honestly haven’t seen a Honda blower used in Winnipeg. Not once. Tons of Ariens, and toro and simplicity.
> are there Hondas used in Selkirk? West side sells them.


Selkirk Honda, West side is the best side, they have great Honda items i bought from there, Sales are great, the whole building is fantastic group of people.

i see a few Honda blowers, not many. if you are interested to see Honda snowblowers, i would invite you this coming blizzard that is coming our way, i would love to show you a Honda blower side by side with Ariens snowblowers. there is a difference as i am talking about quality machines as in whole.

we picked up some Onan engines 16HP or 640cc, with a blower, we will be using them this winter, i ahve to see what they are about, never own a Onan before.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

pink toe beater said:


> Selkirk Honda, West side is the best side, they have great Honda items i bought from there, Sales are great, the whole building is fantastic group of people.
> 
> i see a few Honda blowers, not many. if you are interested to see Honda snowblowers, i would invite you this coming blizzard that is coming our way, i would love to show you a Honda blower side by side with Ariens snowblowers. there is a difference as i am talking about quality machines as in whole.
> 
> we picked up some Onan engines 16HP or 640cc, with a blower, we will be using them this winter, i ahve to see what they are about, never own a Onan before.


You own both,Ariens and Honda?

I think they are both great. They both have things I like and dislike. Wish you could custom order stuff.


----------



## pink toe beater (5 mo ago)

Nan_wpg said:


> You own both,Ariens and Honda?
> 
> I think they are both great. They both have things I like and dislike. Wish you could custom order stuff.


no Ariens at the moment, but i want one in the near future, my friends have Ariens, lots here in Selkirk.

i have Honda's, Onan's powering my small time biz, always have a ad on my local kijiji, sold my old gear, and switched to Honda and Onan is what im rocking this winter so far.


----------



## pink toe beater (5 mo ago)

if i ever pick up Ariens, i like them from the 60's and 70's, im always searching i have a romance with vintage and antique machines.


----------



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> I rewatched this video. I noticed when you did the area for the garbage cans you “muscled” the machine forward and also noticed tire spin.
> 
> this describes me right now. Did you consider tracks? Looking to make things faster and easier. The platinum engine makes it faster. Tracks can be slower, but the Hondas with tracks look like tanks plowing through snow. People even film the Honda plowing on,it’s own.
> 
> my only Ariens track option is the compact 24. But I’d give up some power.


I did have to give it a little push a couple of times to get my machine to start to move forward. The snow was at least 8” over the top of the bucket in places, and part of that pile was from two storms ago, so it was compacted and frozen. Compounding the difficulty, there was the fact that there is no concrete, just grass there, and a layer of ice had formed from prior melting. I went on my keister there the next time I moved my carts down for pick up LOL. I honestly don’t think make, transmissions, or tracks would have made one bit of difference. (they all would have had trouble getting g started with close to zero friction available for traction.)That snow on that ice was slicker than snot on a door knob! If you noticed, I lost my footing & slightly slipped a few times backing the machine up. If I didn’t have the machine to steady me I would have been down. That was the reason I changed the direction of my approach to clean the last bit of snow up. That allowed me to start on the concrete ( keep my feet on the concrete longer) driveway and build up a little momentum before I hit the ice.


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> I did have to give it a little push a couple of times to get my machine to start to move forward. The snow was at least 8” over the top of the bucket in places, and part of that pile was from two storms ago, so it was compacted and frozen. Compounding the difficulty, there was the fact that there is no concrete, just grass there, and a layer of ice had formed from prior melting. I went on my keister there the next time I moved my carts down for pick up LOL. I honestly don’t think make, transmissions, or tracks would have made one bit of difference. (they all would have had trouble getting g started with close to zero friction available for traction.)That snow on that ice was slicker than snot on a door knob! If you noticed, I lost my footing & slightly slipped a few times backing the machine up. If I didn’t have the machine to steady me I would have been down. That was the reason I changed the direction of my approach to clean the last bit of snow up. That allowed me to start on the concrete ( keep my feet on the concrete longer) driveway and build up a little momentum before I hit the ice.


that explains a lot! I still think that rapidtrack is the best of both worlds. Been watching Paul’s videos.

I just watched your review of the platinum. Well done. Ariens should send you something. If I decide to get the platinum, know that your videos were instrumental. I’ll let Ariens know they should send you a kraken!


----------



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> that explains a lot! I still think that rapidtrack is the best of both worlds. Been watching Paul’s videos.
> 
> I just watched your review of the platinum. Well done. Ariens should send you something. If I decide to get the platinum, know that your videos were instrumental. I’ll let Ariens know they should send you a kraken!


I like rapidTrack, and I had a chance ro try one at a dealership (no snow on the ground). It was impressive engineering that I believe is the most versatile track system for a snowblower. It gives you the best of both worlds with the ability to put considerable pressure down on the scraper bar, but still allows excellent maneuverability, and you can still quick wheel when it comes time to move down the block to help a neighbor. It’s really slick. If I had a bigger hill on my driveway I would have purchased one. You can still add rapidTrack to these machines if you want to later which is really nice.


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> I like rapidTrack, and I had a chance ro try one at a dealership (no snow on the ground). It was impressive engineering that I believe is the most versatile track system for a snowblower. It gives you the best of both worlds with the ability to put considerable pressure down on the scraper bar, but still allows excellent maneuverability, and you can still quick wheel when it comes time to move down the block to help a neighbor. It’s really slick. If I had a bigger hill on my driveway I would have purchased one. You can still add rapidTrack to these machines if you want to later which is really nice.


You can add rapid track to any Ariens machine? This is interesting. Where did you see that? I think Ariens is on to something.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> You can add rapid track to any Ariens machine? This is interesting. Where did you see that? I think Ariens is on to something.


When I was shopping, my dealer said there was a conversion kit if I discovered I did need it , it could be converted. Ariens is a different kind of company, IMHO. Most modern corporations tell you you need to buy the new model to get the new features. Ariens came out with LED lighting on their new machines, previously owners wanted to add it to their recently purchased machines, boom, Ariens has a plug and play conversion kit. When I heard about the conversion kit for rapid track, as a shopping consumer, I was thinking I can’t make a mistake here.


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> When I was shopping, my dealer said there was a conversion kit if I discovered I did need it , it could be converted. Ariens is a different kind of company, IMHO. Most modern corporations tell you you need to buy the new model to get the new features. Ariens came out with LED lighting on their new machines, previously owners wanted to add it to their recently purchased machines, boom, Ariens has a plug and play conversion kit. When I heard about the conversion kit for rapid track, as a shopping consumer, I was thinking I can’t make a mistake here.


When I read this I like Ariens more and more!


----------



## pink toe beater (5 mo ago)

Smokie1 said:


> When I was shopping, my dealer said there was a conversion kit if I discovered I did need it , it could be converted. Ariens is a different kind of company, IMHO. Most modern corporations tell you you need to buy the new model to get the new features. Ariens came out with LED lighting on their new machines, previously owners wanted to add it to their recently purchased machines, boom, Ariens has a plug and play conversion kit. When I heard about the conversion kit for rapid track, as a shopping consumer, I was thinking I can’t make a mistake here.


this is a good idea, no doubt, my blowers all have bright lights as well.

when im working out clearing snow, gets dark early here, but head lamp has worked really nice for me. not all the time you are 100% behind your machine with the lights, but when you decide to bail for a moment, head lamp has your back.

from construction to snow removal, my Klein headlamps are great, Home depot got em, Sparkies uses them alot.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> You can add rapid track to any Ariens machine?


Nope.


Smokie1 said:


> When I heard about the conversion kit for rapid track


That's a track drive kit, but not a RapidTrak kit.

Even the Ariens website geeks are confused...









It really looks like this...


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

tabora said:


> Nope.
> 
> That's a track drive kit, but not a RapidTrak kit.
> 
> ...


I stand corrected. I Googled Ariens track conversion kit, and that’s what showed up. Tabora, you are 100% correct. Conversion kit for Delux & Platinum as in your pics. I’m guessing you could sell the tires/rims if you decide to convert to help with the cost.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> I stand corrected. I Googled Ariens track conversion kit, and that’s what showed up. Tabora, you are 100% correct. Conversion kit for Delux & Platinum as in your pics. I’m guessing you could sell the tires/rims if you decide to convert to help with the cost.


so, watching more of your videos…..

I can’t tell (because of your jacket) if you normally stand real close to the blower, or do you find yourself pushing the dash with your hips for a bit more traction?

the reason for a new blower is 1. Faster (bigger engine, more power, get done quicker) 2. Easier, especially as I age (auto turn, vs current fixed axle

have you ever regretted no tracks? I’ve never used hydro or tracks, and the platinum is perfect, I like the “support” Ariens offers I.e downloadable manuals, service videos.

I have no issue paying for hydro or tracks but my 24” storage limits me to the Honda 724. I still can’t wrap my head around a smaller engine not being a downgrade to my current 1981 tecumseh powered mtd, DESPITE watching several videos of the little tank doing some amazing things.

I COULD buy the honda 928, or Ariens 28 pro model but that would require a work around via driving onto a ramp and then rolling into storage in the garage.

totally doable but as stated my reason to upgrade includes “easier” so the loading ramp just adds another step to the process.

Wish we could decide on a “trim” level of blower, size of blower, and then add options like track drive, or hydro.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> I have no issue paying for hydro or tracks but my 24” storage limits me to the Honda 724.





Nan_wpg said:


> I COULD buy the honda 928, or Ariens 28 pro model but that would require a work around via driving onto a ramp and then rolling into storage in the garage.


Sounds easy-peasy to me...


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> so, watching more of your videos…..
> 
> I can’t tell (because of your jacket) if you normally stand real close to the blower, or do you find yourself pushing the dash with your hips for a bit more traction?
> 
> ...


I do tend to stand close to the handlebars as when I have tried EFI machines I’m constantly hitting that little round knob with my jacket and changing engine speed. I don’t regret not getting a tracked machine here. At just shy of 300 lbs, and the type of tires the Ariens has, the traction is great 99.9% of the time. Now if I were buying a new machine for my cabin, I would get tracks. Long sloping unpaved driveway. I’m not usually there when it snows, so sometimes I’m cleaning up 3-5 storms with melt ice underneath. But for here with a paved driveway with a gentle slope, I just don’t need it. Have you gone to a dealer and rolled the 24” SHO around? I was shocked the first time I did. All those years with fixed axel machines had me thinking I was going to have to 
wrestle a 300 lb bear. The salesman had a grin on his face when I tipped it back, lowered the bucked, and made a few turns with it. I told him I couldn’t believe how easy it was to move for a big engined machine. “It’s easy to handle, and there’s no storm around here this won’t handle.” He replied.


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> Sounds easy-peasy to me...


yes, and maybe no?? with a larger track machine my intent would be to buy this:






General PDP Template







www.canadiantire.ca





and drive my wheeled/or tracked blower onto it and park the blower.

its 9” high At ground zero. This gives me the clearance (if I tilt the Honda bucket slightly) without even raising the lift. If I go Ariens wheeled blower I’d simply utilize the lift function.

so my question for you is would the Honda be able to drive right up onto a 9” platform, or would it need ramps (oil change ramps)? I’ve seen the Hondas climb stairs so I think I could just “wheelie” it onto the lift.

I think a wheeled unit would need ramps. either use my existing car ramps or I could piano hinge some type of ramp.
unless you can think of something? (You seem like a crafty/handy guy)


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> so my question for you is would the Honda be able to drive right up onto a 9” platform


Yup. Although I'd put a hinged ramp on the lift platform that would flop down out of the way when lifted and extend when the lift platform was lowered, like this:


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> Yup. Although I'd put a hinged ramp on the lift platform that would flop down out of the way when lifted and extend when the lift platform was lowered, like this:


thats pretty much what I had in mind, except my ramp would lift up so it takes up less footprint in my small garage.
the lift platform is only 18” x 28” long. Rapidtrack tracks I think are 27” apart. Would Honda be about the same?

id have to put some plywood on top of the lift.

bonus = lift could be used as a workbench


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> thats pretty much what I had in mind, except my ramp would lift up so it takes up less footprint in my small garage.
> the lift platform is only 18” x 28” long. Rapidtrack tracks I think are 27” apart. Would Honda be about the same?
> 
> id have to put some plywood on top of the lift.
> ...


The RapidTrak tracks have an overall width of 27" and not 27" apart. Each track is 5.5" wide. So the RapidTrak would fit on the 28" wide platform that you are considering.

I have not checked the RapidTrak length from tracks to bucket skid shoes to ensure the platform is long enough for a stable ride. Will do shortly.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

@Nan_wpg the RapidTrak measures 32" from center of rear bogie wheel to the front skid shoe resting on the ground. So it should be a stable fit on the 28" long platform. The last 4" of track length would be not supported by the platform. The tracks are approximately 17" long touching the ground, so 13" of track length supported by the platform as well as the full length of the cast iron skid shoe.


----------



## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Town said:


> @Nan_wpg the RapidTrak measures 32" from center of rear bogie wheel to the front skid shoe resting on the ground. So it should be a stable fit on the 28" long platform. The last 4" of track length would be not supported by the platform. The tracks are approximately 17" long touching the ground, so 13" of track length supported by the platform as well as the full length of the cast iron skid shoe.


I think i showed that the platform is too small to fit the RapidTak in the width. Sorry it would need to be 28” wide.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> The RapidTrak tracks have an overall width of 27" and not 27" apart. Each track is 5.5" wide. So the RapidTrak would fit on the 28" wide platform that you are considering.
> 
> I have not checked the RapidTrak length from tracks to bucket skid shoes to ensure the platform is long enough for a stable ride. Will do shortly.





Town said:


> I think i showed that the platform is too small to fit the RapidTak in the width. Sorry it would need to be 28” wide.


yes, I meant 27” wide.. total,width, not apart.
the “lift” is 18” wide by 28” long so yes it’s too narrow. I’d put a piece of plywood. But since the track width is 27” I would have to offset the plywood. 27” is teetering on too wide for the space. So if I offset by an inch or too I would be fine.

Tabora said the Honda should be able to “climb” onto the 9” platform. But he recommends a ramp. What say you on this issue with Ariens?

another question for you… what about sliding the 18” platform under the belly pan and lifting? Is there 9” of space underneath? I don’t think it would fit width wise…. Track width of 27, minus the 5.5 tracks gives me 16” of space. Not enough. I’m also,thinking the rapid track bar would interfere. 

I wonder if a wheeled Ariens pro machine can accommodate the lift under the belly pan?

I could also move and buy a house with a real garage, lol


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> I could also move and buy a house with a real garage, lol


Then you can buy the Honda and the Ariens... Problem solved 👍😉🤣


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

JJG723 said:


> Then you can buy the Honda and the Ariens... Problem solved 👍😉🤣


ill sleep tonight dreaming of a kraken, AND an 1132!

local Ariens dealer I don’t need a pro model. He also said if I go Honda just get the 724, and that engines are matched to the bucket and that the “Honda guys know what they’re doing”.

he said the platinum 24 and hss724 will do the job, and it’s a matter if I feel track and hydro is useful.

there’s one quality I like in dealers, companies, trades people…… and that’s not bashing the competition.
he also said he sees very little Hondas for repair (likely they’d go to a Honda dealer) but said the top players all make good machines and that a large part of his repairs are carb cleaning. He has an inventory of oem carbs and simply swaps them out, cleans and then inventories again for the next time.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> Rapidtrack tracks I think are 27” apart. Would Honda be about the same?


My Honda HSS1332AATD is only 23.75" across the tracks from outside to outside. That may contribute to how well it turns...


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> My Honda HSS1332AATD is 23.75" across the tracks from outside to outside. That may contribute to how well it turns...


for sure that’s why. It’s like a shorter wheel base… kinda but sideways. Do you think the 928, and 724 have the same track width? Same chassis, and just plunk bigger engines, and buckets?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I just noticed your bucket extention. Did you buy it, or fabricate it?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> Do you think the 928, and 724 have the same track width?


I would guess that that's the case.


Nan_wpg said:


> I just noticed your bucket extention. Did you buy it, or fabricate it?


It's a Gripo. You can buy them from ESF dealers in Canada... You need to check your local store(s) from the dealers list.








SNOWBLOWER EXTENSION HONDA #HSS724 | ESF Equipments


SNOWBLOWER EXTENSION HONDA #HSS724




www.esfdirect.com












SNOWBLOWER EXTENSION HONDA #HSS928 | ESF Equipments


SNOWBLOWER EXTENSION HONDA #HSS928




www.esfdirect.com












SNOWBLOWER EXTENSION HONDA #HSS1332 | ESF Equipments


SNOWBLOWER EXTENSION HONDA #HSS1332




www.esfdirect.com


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> I would guess that that's the case.
> 
> It's a Gripo. You can buy them from ESF dealers in Canada... You need to check your local store(s) from the dealers list.
> 
> ...


looks like,a great product but from a company that has one of the worst web sites I’ve seen since the internet became widespread….

can I ask how you navigated to those links? Nothing is working for me. I’m on an iPad. Maybe they have some weird web coding happening?


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> looks like,a great product but from a company that has one of the worst web sites I’ve seen since the internet became widespread….
> 
> can I ask how you navigated to those links? Nothing is working for me. I’m on an iPad. Maybe they have some weird web coding happening?


Makes sense to increase bucket front surface if you get slot of deep powder snow. Knocks down the drifts at the same time, but sure throws a big shadow. Might have to add (or switch to) another light on the handlebars? I couldn’t navigate to see any prices. What did those add on’s set you back?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> I’m on an iPad.


Well, there it is... I own 4 iPads, but I try not to use them for serious web browsing. 

Hope you're not using Safari? Firefox is your friend...

Just tried that site with my iPad Mini running iPadOS 15.7 - Awful experience...


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> Well, there it is... I own 4 iPads, but I try not to use them for serious web browsing.
> 
> Hope you're not using Safari? Firefox is your friend...


don’t usually have a problem. What’s wrong with safari? I have google. Can try opera as well


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

safari, opera, chrome, and Firefox don’t work. Gonna say it’s on their end


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> safari, opera, chrome, and Firefox don’t work.


They work on PCs... Be sure your browser on an iPad is requesting the Mobile site, not the Desktop site. I just tweaked it on my iPad (Firefox) and it works OK.


----------



## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

Can't say anything bad about Airens or Honda's both are very good machines.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Nan_wpg said:


> ill sleep tonight dreaming of a kraken, AND an 1132!
> 
> local Ariens dealer I don’t need a pro model. He also said if I go Honda just get the 724, and that engines are matched to the bucket and that the “Honda guys know what they’re doing”.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a very good dealer, knowledgeable and fair.
He knows your area and what machines will suit your needs best, I would listen to him.


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Ziggy65 said:


> Sounds like a very good dealer, knowledgeable and fair.
> He knows your area and what machines will suit your needs best, I would listen to him.


seriously leaning towards Ariens. Honda and Ariens are great but I just feel like this dealer “has my back”. I suppose there is a value to personal relationships.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Ziggy65 said:


> Sounds like a very good dealer, knowledgeable and fair.
> He knows your area and what machines will suit your needs best, I would listen to him.


Very personal decision as you’ll be living with this machine for a long time. You have to be the one happy with the machine when you roll up the garage door and eye up that EOD present the plow driver has left you. Fortunately, I don’t think there’s a bad option here.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> yes, I meant 27” wide.. total,width, not apart.
> the “lift” is 18” wide by 28” long so yes it’s too narrow. I’d put a piece of plywood. But since the track width is 27” I would have to offset the plywood. 27” is teetering on too wide for the space. So if I offset by an inch or too I would be fine.
> 
> Tabora said the Honda should be able to “climb” onto the 9” platform. But he recommends a ramp. What say you on this issue with Ariens?
> ...


The RapidTrak tracks are mounted on a subframe that rotates around the drive axle on ball bearings. The subframe has two shafts that set the width of the subframe sides apart. In the center of the rear shaft there is a heavy steel track adjustment bar that extends an inch or so below the bar. Not a suitable place to support the heavy RapidTrak. If the platform is just wide enough to fit under these shafts then the machine has no drive which makes for some awkward manoeuvres to mount the platform. You need the tracks on the platform. The outer edges of the Pro 28 RapidTrak cast iron skid shoes are 30" wide. So the platform needs to be about 30" wide and offset to move over the top of concrete wall. The height of the platform would be more than 9" high for the underside of the platform to overlap and clear the wall. Remember that the machine is sitting way higher than a comfortable reach so you are going to need to move it with the lower part of machine which will tend to move the machine on the platform. The 4 wheels will need to be on easy rolling casters. 

For the RapidTrak the Platform dimensions would likely be 32" long and 30" wide with wheels that are about 24" in overall width and offset to the edge of the 30" wide platform to allow a 6" overlap over the wall. I think the platform would need a ramp and be loaded and unloaded outside your garage and wheeled in/out of your garage after your car is moved out for adequate clearance. Some form of forward and rear stops (or tie-downs) would be necessary for safety even though the hydro prevents movement.

A wheeled Pro 28 would likely need a shorter platform but the width would likely be the same to accommodate the bucket. It would need tie downs for stability since the wheels would allow easy movement.

As per @tabora comment about the Honda climbing onto the platform from ground level, I have seen videos of Honda machines climbing straight up and down a flight of stairs so that is theoretically possible. The difference in this case is that you are not following up the platform holding the handlebars. It is going to be a minimum of 10" climb so the platform would need to be held by a wall or similar. Then to get down there would need to be a stop for the platform that did not prevent the machine continuing off the platform i.e. not a wall. I don't know if the RapidTrak will climb stairs or get up on the 10" platform. I would go with a ramp so that I can maintain proper control of the handlebars and drive clutch. I think @tabora is thinking along the same lines.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> Very personal decision as you’ll be living with this machine for a long time. You have to be the one happy with the machine when you roll up the garage door and eye up that EOD present the plow driver has left you. Fortunately, I don’t think there’s a bad option here.


agreed, but that’s the problem, there’s TOO MANY great choices. It’s frustrating, and yet I’m fortunate to have such 1st world problems.

im potentially spending up to 5k and this will likely be my last snowblower purchase. And I have mass amounts of information, and an army of smart people (you guys) to help out. Just wanna get it right.


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> The RapidTrak tracks are mounted on a subframe that rotates around the drive axle on ball bearings. The subframe has two shafts that set the width of the subframe sides apart. In the center of the rear shaft there is a heavy steel track adjustment bar that extends an inch or so below the bar. Not a suitable place to support the heavy RapidTrak. If the platform is just wide enough to fit under these shafts then the machine has no drive which makes for some awkward manoeuvres to mount the platform. You need the tracks on the platform. The outer edges of the Pro 28 RapidTrak cast iron skid shoes are 30" wide. So the platform needs to be about 30" wide and offset to move over the top of concrete wall. The height of the platform would be more than 9" high for the underside of the platform to overlap and clear the wall. Remember that the machine is sitting way higher than a comfortable reach so you are going to need to move it with the lower part of machine which will tend to move the machine on the platform. The 4 wheels will need to be on easy rolling casters.
> 
> For the RapidTrak the Platform dimensions would likely be 32" long and 30" wide with wheels that are about 24" in overall width and offset to the edge of the 30" wide platform to allow a 6" overlap over the wall. I think the platform would need a ramp and be loaded and unloaded outside your garage and wheeled in/out of your garage after your car is moved out for adequate clearance. Some form of forward and rear stops (or tie-downs) would be necessary for safety even though the hydro prevents movement.
> 
> ...


i would just build the appropriate platform for the lift, and I’m now thinking of locking casters. Lock the lift, place my oil change ramps at the platform. That gives me 6 inches of lift, and only 3” to “climb”. Should be no issue.

local dealer said I’m nuts, lol. His advice is just stick with the 24” Ariens or Honda if I really wanted tracks and hydro (Ariens has no hydro/track 24” model) I don’t need a pro Ariens.

when I first walked into the store and based on my,driveway he actually said all I need is the 24 deluxe and platinum was overkill. But I don’t replace stuff with the same. I usually want something “a bit better”.

then I hit the web, which brought me here. And here I am engineering moveable platforms lol


----------



## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> And here I am engineering moveable platforms


Maybe the solution is to look outside the box, or garage in this case? A small storage structure? There are lots of options.
I use one of these for my generator...








The Stow-Away® Horizontal Shed


#html-body [data-pb-style=CVSX39U]{justify-content:flex-start;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-attachment:scroll}At 70 cu. ft., this Horizontal Shed by Suncast® is the perfect solution for hiding your...




www.suncast.com


----------



## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

tabora said:


> Maybe the solution is to look outside the box, or garage in this case? A small storage structure? There are lots of options.
> I use one of these for my generator...
> 
> 
> ...


I agree with Ziggy, (depending on how safe your neighborhood is a plastic shed will do) and if you’re going with the wider track machine build a shed. I can’t tell you how many times over the years I am just heading into the house after finishing blowing snow, and here comes the plow for one more pass. Or, you cleaned everything up at night, and now morning brings a clean driveway, but a fresh foot and a half of slush piled at the EOD. I know I wouldn’t want to put a machine on and off a cart in these situations. I also know it’s going to be tough keeping that cart from moving when you take that machine on and off. The machine is going to have snow on it( no matter how well u brush it off), and the garage floor is going to have a combination of slush ( from car wheels), snow, and or sand. You don’t want 3- $5 grand Worth of machine rolling over off the side, propelling that cart into one of your vehicles, or worse injuring you or a family member. Is your wife going to be able to use the cart if you’re laid up, or out of town for some reason? Don’t overthink the “which machine thing.” Pick the one your gut tells you to and you’ll be fine.


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> Maybe the solution is to look outside the box, or garage in this case? A small storage structure? There are lots of options.
> I use one of these for my generator...
> 
> 
> ...


i did give consideration to a shed. It would need to be in the back yard behind the fence. Our city is a cesspool of bad people.
if,I,could move our garbage/recycling bins outside I could make an hss928, or Ariens 28 work. No workarounds. We used


Smokie1 said:


> I agree with Ziggy, (depending on how safe your neighborhood is a plastic shed will do) and if you’re going with the wider track machine build a shed. I can’t tell you how many times over the years I am just heading into the house after finishing blowing snow, and here comes the plow for one more pass. Or, you cleaned everything up at night, and now morning brings a clean driveway, but a fresh foot and a half of slush piled at the EOD. I know I wouldn’t want to put a machine on and off a cart in these situations. I also know it’s going to be tough keeping that cart from moving when you take that machine on and off. The machine is going to have snow on it( no matter how well u brush it off), and the garage floor is going to have a combination of slush ( from car wheels), snow, and or sand. You don’t want 3- $5 grand Worth of machine rolling over off the side, propelling that cart into one of your vehicles, or worse injuring you or a family member. Is your wife going to be able to use the cart if you’re laid up, or out of town for some reason? Don’t overthink the “which machine thing.” Pick the one your gut tells you to and you’ll be fine.



the more I think. about the platform the more I think pain in the ass. Wife never uses the blower. She prefers to shovel. Sometimes we compromise and she pushes the snow to one side of the drive and I blow it far on to the lawn to avoid a snowbank.

Ariens dealer says if I’ve been making due with the 8hp tecumseh MTD a smaller platinum 24” will run circles around it.


----------



## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> I agree with Ziggy, (depending on how safe your neighborhood is a plastic shed will do) and if you’re going with the wider track machine build a shed. I can’t tell you how many times over the years I am just heading into the house after finishing blowing snow, and here comes the plow for one more pass. Or, you cleaned everything up at night, and now morning brings a clean driveway, but a fresh foot and a half of slush piled at the EOD. I know I wouldn’t want to put a machine on and off a cart in these situations. I also know it’s going to be tough keeping that cart from moving when you take that machine on and off. The machine is going to have snow on it( no matter how well u brush it off), and the garage floor is going to have a combination of slush ( from car wheels), snow, and or sand. You don’t want 3- $5 grand Worth of machine rolling over off the side, propelling that cart into one of your vehicles, or worse injuring you or a family member. Is your wife going to be able to use the cart if you’re laid up, or out of town for some reason? Don’t overthink the “which machine thing.” Pick the one your gut tells you to and you’ll be fine.


forgot to ask you as you have personal experience….

I noticed most Ariens shoot snow back out of the bucket as you are blowing snow. (Top right side when facing bucket/top right when operating)

I understand this is a feature to offload excess snow. how does it work?is it annoying? is it needed? Can you work around it?


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> forgot to ask you as you have personal experience….
> 
> I noticed most Ariens shoot snow back out of the bucket as you are blowing snow. (Top right side when facing bucket/top right when operating)
> 
> I understand this is a feature to offload excess snow. how does it work?is it annoying? is it needed? Can you work around it?


Every snow blower I’ve ever owned pisses a little snow out one side or the other when you are going too fast for conditions, or your taking too large a bite for the amount of power/torque your engine has as opposed to the depth/ moisture content of the snow. The auger/impeller combination on the Ariens machines, the last 8 years or so, adds air to the snow which supposedly adds throwing distance, and reduces clogging. I’m not sure about other brands. The only time I even notice it is when I’m in a hurry because I need to get to a doctors appointment, or the wife needs to get out to get to work and I’m trying to clear the deepest snow as fast as I can to avoid having it getting packed down. I honestly don’t even notice it otherwise. I think having snow cone out of the sides of the bucket is something more operator induced than machine created for all brands of two or three stage snow throwers.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> forgot to ask you as you have personal experience….
> 
> I noticed most Ariens shoot snow back out of the bucket as you are blowing snow. (Top right side when facing bucket/top right when operating)
> 
> I understand this is a feature to offload excess snow. how does it work?is it annoying? is it needed? Can you work around it?


My experience with the snow stream on the left side of auger (when blowing snow) is that it happens in lighter snow types, in heavier snow the effect is less noticeable. It is also less noticeable in deeper snow. It is more noticeable with higher impeller speeds, especially extra high impeller speeds. With me it happens regardless of forward speed.

I think it is a function of the impeller rotation and the lack of any restriction in the impeller housing facing the augers. The impeller is moving snow clockwise (from operators position) so at the bottom of the impeller housing the snow is moving towards the left side of bucket (operators position) and upward. The small flow is moved forward by the left side of the bucket and the left auger. One of the members here (I think Scot the former moderator?) solved the issue with a plate hanging from the top inside of bucket that forced the small snow stream downward.

Others have different opinions of the cause, and solution.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

It’s official. Ariens platinum 24 921063 ordered! Now the agonizing wait like a kid staying up to listen for Santa.

nothing wrong with the Honda. well built machine, but I didn’t feel I needed hydro, or track. Plus the electric chute would worry me “is today the day”

ariens, old school, carb, manual chute. Nothing really to break, and if it does, nothing I can’t fix myself.

side note, we talked about (dealer) trufuel and aspen. He said not to use trufuel 50:1. They’ve,had lots of failed stilhl chainsaws. I’ve been using trufuel for years. No problem.

my brother in law did in fact blow a,saw but he used,trufuel 4 cycle instead of mix. Dealer also said not to tell stihl if you use,trufuel for warranty issues?/ 

thoughts/? First I’ve heard of this.


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> It’s official. Ariens platinum 24 921063 ordered! Now the agonizing wait like a kid staying up to listen for Santa.
> 
> nothing wrong with the Honda. well built machine, but I didn’t feel I needed hydro, or track. Plus the electric chute would worry me “is today the day”
> 
> ...


Welcome to the club I know you’ll enjoy your new Ariens. Never used Trufuel. I bring no ethanol premium back from Northern Wi. Add a teaspoon of SeaFoam, and a teaspoon of Stabil and have never had a fuel related problem.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> Welcome to the club I know you’ll enjoy your new Ariens. Never used Trufuel. I bring no ethanol premium back from Northern Wi. Add a teaspoon of SeaFoam, and a teaspoon of Stabil and have never had a fuel related problem.


i can’t get 0 ethanol near buy, and for the amount I use, trufuel isn’t too bad. I’m worried about tru fuel 50:1. I didn’t believe the dealer so I reached out to a friend who works for stihl and he confirmed notto use. Doesn’t explain why I haven’t blown up.

carb, carb kit, friction disk, and set of belts on order too. Dealer said I’m nuts and I won’t need a belt for a long time (especially the auger belt as there’s 2)


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> i can’t get 0 ethanol near buy, and for the amount I use, trufuel isn’t too bad. I’m worried about tru fuel 50:1. I didn’t believe the dealer so I reached out to a friend who works for stihl and he confirmed notto use. Doesn’t explain why I haven’t blown up.
> 
> carb, carb kit, friction disk, and set of belts on order too. Dealer said I’m nuts and I won’t need a belt for a long time (especially the auger belt as there’s 2)


I have not heard of problems with Trufuel used in a four stroke engine. Since it is colder in Winnipeg than in Ottawa i would not use 10% ethanol because it creates saturated alcohol bubbles that will not burn. Stabilizers don’t work for me or anyone in Ottawa that i know of. 
Congratulations on the Platinum decision. That is a very nice machine. I would buy a spare set of belts, but not the carb or carb kit. Using good fuel the carb will not get coroded.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I had bad luck with pump fuel. Even supposed ethanol free (when shell sold it).
Thus trufuel. I guess I could always drain after 1 month and replenish. I eat had ed the Tara dactyl videos on fuel treatment. None of them worked. Even seafoam. Only thing that worked was vp fuel. Same thing as trufuel


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## Smokie1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Nan_wpg said:


> I had bad luck with pump fuel. Even supposed ethanol free (when shell sold it).
> Thus trufuel. I guess I could always drain after 1 month and replenish. I eat had ed the Tara dactyl videos on fuel treatment. None of them worked. Even seafoam. Only thing that worked was vp fuel. Same thing as trufuel


That’s too bad about not being able to get 0 ethanol fuel by you. I burn 0 ethanol in my fishing boat with a 90 Honda. I can get it here, and the lodge i fish at in Canada has 0 ethanol just South of Ear Falls on Lac Seul. Runs great in my motor and always has since 2001. Put stabil in boat in the winter, and SeaFoam couple times a year when I’m fishing. Multiple carbs on the 90, and never had an issue. Put new fuel lines in 4 years ago as they were getting a little “stiff” for my liking. Maybe there’s a marina near you that you could get it from? I’ve also been told some small airports have it as well? Theres a few places outside of the designated air pollution zone that you can get it from here in Wi. It’s marketed as “Recreational fuel”, not for motorized vehicles that operate on the roads the tag on the pump reads. Maybe you have something similar ? Where are you located? maybe someone in the forum can point you In the right direction to a supply?


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> It’s official. Ariens platinum 24 921063 ordered! Now the agonizing wait like a kid staying up to listen for Santa.
> 
> nothing wrong with the Honda. well built machine, but I didn’t feel I needed hydro, or track. Plus the electric chute would worry me “is today the day”
> 
> ...


Congrats on the new machine, you should love it. 

I've used TrueFuel on my two-stroke engines for years without an issue at all. They are Echo machines FWIW.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> That’s too bad about not being able to get 0 ethanol fuel by you. I burn 0 ethanol in my fishing boat with a 90 Honda. I can get it here, and the lodge i fish at in Canada has 0 ethanol just South of Ear Falls on Lac Seul. Runs great in my motor and always has since 2001. Put stabil in boat in the winter, and SeaFoam couple times a year when I’m fishing. Multiple carbs on the 90, and never had an issue. Put new fuel lines in 4 years ago as they were getting a little “stiff” for my liking. Maybe there’s a marina near you that you could get it from? I’ve also been told some small airports have it as well? Theres a few places outside of the designated air pollution zone that you can get it from here in Wi. It’s marketed as “Recreational fuel”, not for motorized vehicles that operate on the roads the tag on the pump reads. Maybe you have something similar ? Where are you located? maybe someone in the forum can point you In the right direction to a supply?


the marinas are an hour away. Airport fuel an hour (assuming they will even sell). Trufuel at Home Depot, 5 minutes. 3 if I hit the intersection on a green light.

and like I said I went through 2-1/2 cans last year. Not a lot. The canned fuel is also,stabilized so I like it.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

JJG723 said:


> Congrats on the new machine, you should love it.
> 
> I've used TrueFuel on my two-stroke engines for years without an issue at all. They are Echo machines FWIW.


ya, I don’t know what to say. Dealer and stihl rep say it will blow up the chainsaw. Brother in law and myself have been using it for years with no issue.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

For what it's worth, but the points made and tests done seem totally valid to me.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tadawson said:


> For what it's worth, but the points made and tests done seem totally valid to me.


watched that. I have an rpm on order and I will test for myself. she seems legit.

I’ve never had a problem with trufuel or aspen. 
talked to some,cabin neighbors. Also trufuel /aspen users. No issues.
reached out to a firefighter friend. They use aspe/trufuel for their chainsaws, and k12 saws. No issues. 
he, then reached out to the wild land fire guys, they use regular fuel during season and trufuel/aspen for storage.

maybe dealer and stihl are trying to avoid warranty? Selling their own brand fuel?


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Honestly, I could care less . . . I don't use absurdely priced botique packaged pump gas myself . . . Had run normal 87 with E for years with zero issues, and went to E0 pump gas more on principle than need 2 years ago. Haven't needed to clean a carb in decades . . . . (Last one I did was on my old Toro that sat for close to 25 years . . . . fueled. Needed almost nothing . . .


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## Sam Am I (Oct 28, 2021)

Ditto.......In fact, I wasn't even aware of this stuff? Perhaps I live under a rock, but I know I struggled with 5 or so different carb'd motors over a few years phlegming up with corn goo if they sat more then seems 3 months, I just labeled a plastic 5 gal. gas can "non-eth", found a station in town with it, fill it up maybe twice a year and use it in all my yard machines........done deal, haven't had to open any carbs since. Perhaps if our stations didn't carry non-eth, I'd had to have the stuff, lucky I guess.

Even with non-eth, I still run some machines out of gas that sit for a year or more, mower, blower, chain saw, tiller, paranoid I guess.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

What did the equipment allegedly fail from with the Trufuel?

Carb issues?
Lack of lubrication?


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tadawson said:


> Honestly, I could care less . . . I don't use absurdely priced botique packaged pump gas myself . . . Had run normal 87 with E for years with zero issues, and went to E0 pump gas more on principle than need 2 years ago. Haven't needed to clean a carb in decades . . . . (Last one I did was on my old Toro that sat for close to 25 years . . . . fueled. Needed almost nothing . . .


I had problems with non ethanol pump fuel with stabilizer. Guy at work also had problems and we concluded we buy gas at the same place so maybe bad fuel? No idea.

can’t get o ethanol now in my province. I could remove the ethanol but trufuel is convenient. If I understand correctly it’s not repackaged pump gas. There’s a bit more to it.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> What did the equipment allegedly fail from with the Trufuel?
> 
> Carb issues?
> Lack of lubrication?


supposedly chainsaws fail and more specifically stihl. “They blow up with trufuel” is what I’m told. My experience is different.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Nan_wpg said:


> supposedly chainsaws fail and more specifically stihl. “They blow up with trufuel” is what I’m told. My experience is different.


Yeah but that doesn't explain why they "blow up"
I doubt they literally explode.

Unless someone supplies a little better details like they damage bearings and or the cylinder, or clog the carburetor I'd ignore the info for now. 

I'm still not paying $32 USD for a gallon of fuel, but that's besides the point.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> Yeah but that doesn't explain why they "blow up"
> I doubt they literally explode.
> 
> Unless someone supplies a little better details like they damage bearings and or the cylinder, or clog the carburetor I'd ignore the info for now.
> ...


that’s all I know. Yes I discounted the comments. I go by my actual experience. No “blown up” chain saw.

I’ll gladly pay 32 a gallon. E0 is at least an hour of travel (assuming I can get it), pump gas will have to be stabilized (stabilizer will be thrown out as it’s good for 2 years), and even then it will have to be rotated, (stabilized fuel will go bad), and even then I will have problems (based on my experience).
or I can use canned fuel and leave it for 2-1/2 years and my stuff just starts.

factoring in my time, peace of mind, and less effort, I can’t afford NOT to pay 32 a gallon.

each to their own.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Nan_wpg said:


> I had problems with non ethanol pump fuel with stabilizer. Guy at work also had problems and we concluded we buy gas at the same place so maybe bad fuel? No idea.
> 
> can’t get o ethanol now in my province. I could remove the ethanol but trufuel is convenient. If I understand correctly it’s not repackaged pump gas. There’s a bit more to it.


Trust me, they didn't refine it. It pretty much has to be generic feedstock with an additive package and dose of BS . . .


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tadawson said:


> Trust me, they didn't refine it. It pretty much has to be generic feedstock with an additive package and dose of BS . . .


I dunno? Their,website has a list of things it has (and doesn’t have) that pump gas doesn’t (and has).
no benzene, aromatics, etc. 

no,idea. All I know is I had problems with stabilized pump gas. No problems with truefuel, including a chainsaw (that was supposed to blow up because of trufuel) that started after 2 years of sitting.

good enough for me


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I don't know what's in Trufuel but it smelled very different than gasoline to me


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Me either. I’m guessing there’s only a few places that refine crude, or whatever they do. Trufuel buys the raw stuff, and then adds what they add?

all I know is that if I left stabilized pump fuel in something for 2-1/2 years it likely wouldn’t start.
I normally don’t let things sit for 2-1/2 years. 6 months tops. So I’m good to go and I don’t have to think about anything.

initially I used pump gas during the season, then drain and run a bit of trufuel. Then I figured out how much fuel I was actually using. Mower uses 1 can of trufuel per year. Blower used 3 and last year was an exceptionally snowfall year.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

What do you store fuel in? I had some stuff with Stabil in it that went 3 years in the gas can due to covid, and it ran no differently than fresh from the pump. The key is _sealed_ storage!


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tadawson said:


> What do you store fuel in? I had some stuff with Stabil in it that went 3 years in the gas can due to covid, and it ran no differently than fresh from the pump. The key is _sealed_ storage!



















these are what I use. The plastic one for sure is “sealed”. The metal one will “blow off” if there’s pressure so I don’t know if it’s considered a sealed can.

both were filled with premium 0 ethanol fuel and stabilized,with,seafoam. after 30,days fuel was dumped into my truck and new fuel was purchased. Carbs gummed up. So:

1. Pump gas is bad
2. Seafoam is not a good stabilizer
3. The place I bought gas from sells bad gas
4. Gas can (plastic) wasn’t tightened. Metal one has a spring to,close lid.
5. Even in a sealed can gas goes bad

snowblower was always turned off by shutting fuel valve mower has no shut off so I’d drain the tank and run mower dry.

I really have no idea. I get it. Even unstabilized gas should last in a sealed can. The fumes can’t go anywhere.
I did all the right things, or what I was told was right. Gummed carbs.

since using trufuel or aspen I’ve had no issues. I Store the engineered fuel in their original containers. I’d like to put the stuff in my jerry cans but I’m worried the jerry cans are at fault (especially the metal one that can “vent” if needed.

the moving snow guy recommends seafoam and the no spill cans.

at the cabin the outboards get premium ethanol fuel stabilized with stabil marine and stored in the no spill. No issues despite being in a harsher environment.

im open to try new things, or if you can point out what I did wrong I’m all ears but I’m ok with buying the canned stuff.

many people here are getting good results with different approaches but I’m wondering if a periodic running of things is the key. Mower will go a maximum of 6 months in storage.
blower is at least 6 months but could be longer if no snow.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

The metal safety can is most certainly sealed and doesn't blow off until there's a good amount of positive pressure in it. It keeps moisture out.

Personally I consider the plastic can to be junk


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

I figured it was considered sealed. What don’t you like about the no spill cans?


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

I use the No-Spill . . . 3 years, just Stabil, zero issues (could not even run anything for 2 years) . . . . Never run anything dry except for end of season. You may be getting sold crap . . . Oh, never touched Seafoam either.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tadawson said:


> I use the No-Spill . . . 3 years, just Stabil, zero issues (could not even run anything for 2 years) . . . . Never run anything dry except for end of season. You may be getting sold crap . . . Oh, never touched Seafoam either.


a co worker also had gummed carbs when I did. We discovered we gassed up at the same place. So very possible we were sold crap. Also,discovered “premium” at this place was 5% ethanol.

do you run 0 ethanol? and your stabil is the red, original? Nothing else?


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Nan_wpg said:


> a co worker also had gummed carbs when I did. We discovered we gassed up at the same place. So very possible we were sold crap. Also,discovered “premium” at this place was 5% ethanol.
> 
> do you run 0 ethanol? and your stabil is the red, original? Nothing else?


I ran 87 octane with ethanol for years with red Stabil and never had issues in my mowers. Took the blowers to zero E more on principle than need, but those do sit longer, and also with red Stabil. Worst case, if I have a machine like my tiller that has not run in 5 or 6 years, I close and reopen the needles and almost always get a start. (There is likely a bit of residue in the needles, and this opens them, and the first hour or so of running clears the rest.) Most carb cleanings I have had to do have been due to dying fuel line, or dead rubber parts . . . the only one I cleaned that was fuel related was an old Toro with a 7HP Tec flathead that sat about 20 years with fuel in it, and that was an easy clean . . . .


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

When do you expect the new machine


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tadawson said:


> I ran 87 octane with ethanol for years with red Stabil and never had issues in my mowers. Took the blowers to zero E more on principle than need, but those do sit longer, and also with red Stabil. Worst case, if I have a machine like my tiller that has not run in 5 or 6 years, I close and reopen the needles and almost always get a start. (There is likely a bit of residue in the needles, and this opens them, and the first hour or somof running clears the rest.) Most carb cleanings I have had to do have been due to dying fuel line, or dead rubber parts . . . the only one I cleaned that was fuel related was an old Toro with a 7HP Tec flathead that sat about 20 years with fuel in it, and that was an easy clean . . . .


actually now that I think back, I did have the original fuel lines on my blower. Based on advice here, I,did swap out the fuel and primer lines. This coincides with my switch to trufuel.

the 2 year old gas in the sealed can for 2 years… 0 ethanol?
in defense of trufuel it was 2-1/2 years in the chainsaw, not in a can. I know nothing about chainsaws but I’d think they are open to atmosphere.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Tony-chicago said:


> When do you expect the new machine


it depends….. 2 scenarios

1. 7-10 days. it has something to do with a distributor and shipping logistics, and if my order was entered “on time”.
2. 1st week of November 

if I missed the window for #1 I can still get the blower in 7-10,days but I’d pay additional shipping charges. 
#2 I get shipment “on the next one” and no shipping Charges. 

something to do with bulk shipping or something. Honestly I wasn’t paying attention because all I could think was 
“mmmmmmmm Ariens platinum 24” lol.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Sounds great. Hoping to get a full report when that foars to life. Hope you get at least onengood snow to use it.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Tony-chicago said:


> Sounds great. Hoping to get a full report when that foars to life. Hope you get at least onengood snow to use it.


believe me, you’ll all hear about it! Lol

and yes, my luck no snow. I,think back in 05 i bought my first 4x4, got winter tires for it, emergency kit/winter kit for the truck and we didn’t have snow by almost Christmas.


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## Tseg (Jan 29, 2021)

Nan_wpg said:


> believe me, you’ll all hear about it! Lol
> 
> and yes, my luck no snow. I,think back in 05 i bought my first 4x4, got winter tires for it, emergency kit/winter kit for the truck and we didn’t have snow by almost Christmas.


The year before I got my Honda our snow was 200% of average, in the 2 years since, <50% of average. So, yeah, I suspect you will see limited snow this year.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I had two year old E10 without any added B.S. in my steel safety can for 2 years and it was still good. I used the entire can and refilled.

I've still yet to see any actual proof that any additives actually help.

All the "I've always done it this way and never had any problems" isn't proof of it working. Some guy leaves a vented can out in his wet damp shed or even worse, outside, and then it goes bad and that's an excuse that we need additives.

Proper storage matters.
Snake oil doesn't.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> I had two year old E10 without any added B.S. in my steel safety can for 2 years and it was still good. I used the entire can and refilled.
> 
> I've still yet to see any actual proof that any additives actually help.
> 
> ...


if you watch TarHal’s (can’t spell correctly cause auto correct) he tests 12 engines with various additives. None of them works. The only thing that worked was non ethanol fuel.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Nan_wpg said:


> if you watch TarHal’s (can’t spell correctly cause auto correct) he tests 12 engines with various additives. None of them works. The only thing that worked was non ethanol fuel.


Well, at least under his test conditions . . . . some clearly worked better than others . . . .


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tadawson said:


> Well, at least under his test conditions . . . . some clearly worked better than others . . . .


meh…. To me they either work, or they don’t. The better ones delayed the inevitable.

it would have been nice to,see,each additive in a sealed gas can, and then put into a motor Rather,than leaving the fuel in the tanks. I don’t think tanks are sealed. Gas cap is vented, but,is it always vented, or is,it a one way,valve ?

I’ve never been able to figure out how my gas caps vent.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Nan_wpg said:


> meh…. To me they either work, or they don’t. The better ones delayed the inevitable.
> 
> it would have been nice to,see,each additive in a sealed gas can, and then put into a motor Rather,than leaving the fuel in the tanks. I don’t think tanks are sealed. Gas cap is vented, but,is it always vented, or is,it a one way,valve ?
> 
> I’ve never been able to figure out how my gas caps vent.


How do you define "works"? 6 months, 9, a year, 18 months, 3 years, a decade?

There is no absolute here . . . to me, any gain past untreated _identical_ fuel "works" (and I recall that most products did that . . .). The question is ifmit is long enough for a persons use case. (For me at 2+ years max and typically a year, it clearly was/is.)

Not sure if all, but many tanks are designed to allow air in, but not out, although (unsure) there may e anmoverpressure relief co,ponent in the cap as well.

Current fuel cans are clearly sealed, though . . . . I have found mine sometimes pooched way in if temp/barometer have shifted a lot (specifically, my NoSpill like yours . . . ).


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tadawson said:


> How do you define "works"? 6 months, 9, a year, 18 months, 3 years, a decade?
> 
> There is no absolute here . . . to me, any gain past untreated _identical_ fuel "works" (and I recall that most products did that . . .). The question is ifmit is long enough for a persons use case. (For me at 2+ years max and typically a year, it clearly was/is.)
> 
> ...


i define “works” as one off season and one season. So I guess one year. I suppose I can try again and see what happens.

as for gas caps Ive seen some with a tiny hole at the top (constant vent?) and both my blower and mower there is no visible vent anywhere. I have no idea if they are permantly vented, or just vent as needed (valve?)

I posted asking how gas caps work. No one seemed to know. I don’t think anyone does. Like the Cara milk bar?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Nan_wpg said:


> I posted asking how gas caps work. No one seemed to know. I don’t think anyone does.


Sure we do.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> Sure we do.


no one had an answer when I posted.


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## havohep268 (3 mo ago)

Was also waiting to lean from the answers 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

havohep268 said:


> Was also waiting to lean from the answers


Virtually all non-pressurized fuel tank caps MUST allow air to pass into them in order to offset the consumption of fuel. There are MANY different styles and designs. This is one common one...


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Nan_wpg said:


> i define “works” as one off season and one season. So I guess one year. I suppose I can try again and see what happens.
> 
> as for gas caps Ive seen some with a tiny hole at the top (constant vent?) and both my blower and mower there is no visible vent anywhere. I have no idea if they are permantly vented, or just vent as needed (valve?)
> 
> I posted asking how gas caps work. No one seemed to know. I don’t think anyone does. Like the Cara milk bar?


Well, the caramel is deposited on the back side of a tray of chocolate that is warmed to near melting. As the tray moves down the production line the caramel melts its way into the center of the chocolate segments and is prevented from melting all the way through by cooling the bottom of the tray just slightly. There you have it. It's a secret so don't tell anyone.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

tabora said:


> Virtually all non-pressurized fuel tank caps MUST allow air to pass into them in order to offset the consumption of fuel. There are MANY different styles and designs. This is one common one...


interesting video. My cap has a foam dome, then an upside down disk. I replaced it so I’m going to tear apart the old one to see how it works.

but these fuel tanks would be considered sealed, no? In the video the “duckbill” was set to 7 psi or something as a blow off. Valve let’s air in so gravity can do it’s thing, but yet not allow fumes out. (This helps us by sealing the fuel tank and preserving fuel.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Toon said:


> Well, the caramel is deposited on the back side of a tray of chocolate that is warmed to near melting. As the tray moves down the production line the caramel melts its way into the center of the chocolate segments and is prevented from melting all the way through by cooling the bottom of the tray just slightly. There you have it. It's a secret so don't tell anyone.


i suppose you’re going to tell me santa, and the Easter bunny aren’t real either? Lol.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> I have not heard of problems with Trufuel used in a four stroke engine. Since it is colder in Winnipeg than in Ottawa i would not use 10% ethanol because it creates saturated alcohol bubbles that will not burn. Stabilizers don’t work for me or anyone in Ottawa that i know of.
> Congratulations on the Platinum decision. That is a very nice machine. I would buy a spare set of belts, but not the carb or carb kit. Using good fuel the carb will not get coroded.


got a question for you, hopefully convey it properly…

do you grease/oil inside the right side short axle? Manual says grease/oil the bushings that the left/right axles slide through, and also says to grease/anti seize the axles so the wheels don’t weld together.

it says nothing about the inside of the short right axle. There are bronze (brass?) bushings on each end, and the right short axle spins on the long left axle. If it were to size auto turn would be disabled.

dude on you tube pulls the short axle and greases but manual doesn’t mention. Is it needed? Bronze and steel don’t corrode maybe? I’ve read these bushings self lubricate.

it’s possible your auto turn assembly is different than the current one. Your left axle is held in place by a roll pin, and the right side is held with the e clip?

current,setup has the left axle go through box, connects to differential, and through differential. Right side goes into box, and into differential, but the whole thing is held together by the e clip. There is no roll pin.


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## Brojira (4 mo ago)

Nan_wpg said:


> it depends….. 2 scenarios
> 
> 1. 7-10 days. it has something to do with a distributor and shipping logistics, and if my order was entered “on time”.
> 2. 1st week of November
> ...


Did you go though Accurate on Pembina? Great shop.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Sure did. Really good group of people.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> got a question for you, hopefully convey it properly…
> 
> do you grease/oil inside the right side short axle? Manual says grease/oil the bushings that the left/right axles slide through, and also says to grease/anti seize the axles so the wheels don’t weld together.
> 
> ...


Your question on greasing/oiling the inside of the wheel axle bushings and the axle to wheel hub:
Yes and yes for the Platinum, and no and yes for the Pro RapidTrak. The Platinum has bushings to support the axle and are tight fitting so I angled the machine to put a few drops of oil down the axle close to the bushing. The wheel hub and axle end need to be greased every year because snow (turning to water) and water at kerb washes the grease out. For the Pro RapidTrak the axle is supported by sealed ball bearing bearings and do not need additional greasing. The RapidTrak subframe is supported on the axle by sealed ball bearing bearings so no lubrication either. The drive wheels of the RapidTrak are large plastic with a steel center, so the wheel hub and axle need lubrication just like the wheel models. 

Your question about lubricating the short right axle:
For my Platinum I did lubricate the right side of the long left axle that the right axle rides on and also grease the right axle splines that engage the right side of differential. There is only a slow movement between left and right axle when you make a turn so "spinning" may conjure the wrong idea. I have not lubricated the right axle on my Pro RapidTrak but probably will next spring. Lubrication is infrequent because no water gets to those inside parts.

Your question on different differentials 2015 to now:
The differential is different on the Pro compared to other Ariens models, it is the heavy duty aluminum body version. The Platinum uses the resin body version. The design is the same for my 2015 Platinum to current models (I think) but the difference is better grease or/and more grease on later models. I have a rebuilt 2015 differential with lots of grease and a current model differential and they both operate exactly the same. No clicks in either.

Axle held by E clip only and no roll pin:
My 2015 Platinum has a roll pin to locate the left axle, the e clip secures the right axle. The Pro models do not seem to have the roll pin but use ball bearing bearings, and the e clip for right axle. I am not familiar with axle retention on latest Platinum. But the left axle needs to be retained by some feature I would think.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Town said:


> Your question on greasing/oiling the inside of the wheel axle bushings and the axle to wheel hub:
> Yes and yes for the Platinum, and no and yes for the Pro RapidTrak. The Platinum has bushings to support the axle and are tight fitting so I angled the machine to put a few drops of oil down the axle close to the bushing. The wheel hub and axle end need to be greased every year because snow (turning to water) and water at kerb washes the grease out. For the Pro RapidTrak the axle is supported by sealed ball bearing bearings and do not need additional greasing. The RapidTrak subframe is supported on the axle by sealed ball bearing bearings so no lubrication either. The drive wheels of the RapidTrak are large plastic with a steel center, so the wheel hub and axle need lubrication just like the wheel models.
> 
> Your question about lubricating the short right axle:
> ...


unless I read the service manual incorrectly (for current platinum) it looks like the left side axle slides through the box, and the thinner end of the left side axle goes through the diff, and then the right side slides over top of that.

it looks like the eclip is the only thing holding the entire axle assembly together.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Nan_wpg said:


> unless I read the service manual incorrectly (for current platinum) it looks like the left side axle slides through the box, and the thinner end of the left side axle goes through the diff, and then the right side slides over top of that.
> 
> it looks like the eclip is the only thing holding the entire axle assembly together.


Yes the E clip holds the left and right sides of axle together, but it does not keep the axle in the chassis. 

On my 2015 Platinum there is a roll pin in the left side axle that prevents the axle sliding out of chassis on the left side and the snap clip on the left wheel axle end prevents the axle from sliding out the right side. 

Your new Platinum 921063 and my Pro RapidTrak do not have the roll pin. This newer design retains the axle (left and right) in the chassis using the left and right snap clips that prevent the wheel hub from sliding off the axle. The wheel hubs are prevented from moving inwards by the bolted on bushings for Platinum (and bearings for the Pro models). So axle cannot move in the chassis.


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## Nan_wpg (Jan 15, 2015)

Smokie1 said:


> That’s too bad about not being able to get 0 ethanol fuel by you. I burn 0 ethanol in my fishing boat with a 90 Honda. I can get it here, and the lodge i fish at in Canada has 0 ethanol just South of Ear Falls on Lac Seul. Runs great in my motor and always has since 2001. Put stabil in boat in the winter, and SeaFoam couple times a year when I’m fishing. Multiple carbs on the 90, and never had an issue. Put new fuel lines in 4 years ago as they were getting a little “stiff” for my liking. Maybe there’s a marina near you that you could get it from? I’ve also been told some small airports have it as well? Theres a few places outside of the designated air pollution zone that you can get it from here in Wi. It’s marketed as “Recreational fuel”, not for motorized vehicles that operate on the roads the tag on the pump reads. Maybe you have something similar ? Where are you located? maybe someone in the forum can point you In the right direction to a supply?


meh, I’ll just bite the bullet and use trufuel,for now. As an experiment mother in law will store the old blower at her place. I’m going to,try oneacer’s method of,seafoam/stabil,in,it and use a,sealed can to see if it bums again.

can I ask was your machine properly lubed when you,picked,it up?

do,you remove/grease the short,right side,axle?


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