# HS621, Broken Auger?



## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

Hi all,

I picked up a Honda HS621 recently and the seller was quick to point out the cracks in the auger as the reason he had posted it for sale. The machine had sat idle for a couple year but started after 4 or 5 pulls with old gas in the tank. It looks to be in good shape, all around pretty clean and I'm happy that it's of similar size to my Toro CCR3000E. The paddles are all well-worn and I'm looking for replacements.

I've looked up the serial number of my new-to-me machine and I believe it's a revision C (SZAN-1112XXX) snowblower with the updated auger assembly.

Basically, it looks like there are a couple bushings that are part of the auger but not welded to the main axle. The axle seems fine, solid with no cracks.

Got a couple questions:
1. Should I stick to OEM paddles? I'm looking at roughly $200 in parts from the Honda dealership vs. the appealing $80 (presumably aftermarket) kit on offer on eBay.
2. What should I do about the pieces that broke off? I'm fine with taking it all to a welder to get looked at, but if JB Weld or some other epoxy will do the job as well, I'd like to explore that. The other welds in the assembly seem fine.

What do the pros here make of this?


Thanks!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF thefragger

I'm not the SS guy but someone should be along shortly.

.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Get the auger welded and reinforced (that is the weak link on the HS521/621) otherwise HS621 is known as the best single stage snowblower Honda ever made ‘little tanks’
For the paddles if it’s your keeper go OEM, if not aftermarket. To my knowledge OEM lasts about twice as long compared to aftermarket.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Stay with Honda OEM paddles. As YSHSfan points out, they are made from a heavier gauge rubber and will last twice as long as the aftermarket paddles.


JB Weld won't hold up to the constant abuse the auger box receives. Have it professionally welded for $40 - $50 bucks and you'll be good to go for many years to come.


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

YSHSfan said:


> Get the auger welded and reinforced (that is the weak link on the HS521/621) otherwise HS621 is known as the best single stage snowblower Honda ever made ‘little tanks’
> For the paddles if it’s your keeper go OEM, if not aftermarket. To my knowledge OEM lasts about twice as long compared to aftermarket.


OK, and just so I'm clear, I'm asking for the cracks to be re-welded? It doesn't appear that these broken pieces were welded elsewhere. Reinforcement means welding these to the drive shaft as well?

This will be my keeper, plan is to sell the Toro once the Honda is refubed. The argument as I see it is that the OEM paddles + scraper bar cost 2-1/2 times the aftermarket set. It's a tough pill to swallow, but I've also learned the lesson 'buy once cry once.'

Thanks for the support and warm welcomes


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## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

If this is to be used as a spare or back-up, have it welded. If it's your go-to machine for a long time, use new parts.


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

gibbs296 said:


> If this is to be used as a spare or back-up, have it welded. If it's your go-to machine for a long time, use new parts.


Maybe I should explain my situation: married, 1 kid on the way, 2 car driveway with a 20 ft path up to the house and maybe 70 ft of sidewalk.

I don't _need_ a massive 2 stage, and I've gotten along well enough beating on the little Toro CCR3000E for more than a few years.

My wife tried using the machine for the first time and she didn't like the smell of the 2 stroke, so I tried to find the best 4 stroke I could with out budget.

Why would welding the old auger be insufficient for me? I'm looking at $400~$500 for a new auger assembly if that's the case.

I recognize that this was an expensive machine when it was new, just honestly asking for your point of view. I appreciate and value you and other members' experience on these issues, as I have very little!


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

thefragger said:


> OK, and just so I'm clear, I'm asking for the cracks to be re-welded? It doesn't appear that these broken pieces were welded elsewhere. Reinforcement means welding these to the drive shaft as well?


Yes, get the cracks properly welded but also the collar ends welded to the shaft.


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## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

My thoughts are I'm not a big fan of trying to repair a weak\poorly designed piece of metal that will impact ice chunks and god knows what else. I'm an old guy, if I get hurt because it comes apart, that's my choice. The OP is a younger guy with family. Spinning metal can do a lot of damage if it comes apart. Will it repair ok? Probably, but why take the risk. The big Toro singles don't have this design flaw and work very well. I would hunt for one of those. Good luck on your project!


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

The main shaft, that takes most of the impact, is still fine. The collars were added to later model HS621 machines to help support the auger/shaft. The collars should line up perfect with the cracks, just weld them back on either yourself or pay someone $20 to do it for your. 

Nothing wrong with this machine, heck you can use it as it is and not have any issue unless you hit something really hard. 


I love my 2 stroke single stage machines as they are light and powerful but the HS621 is very potent and dependable. The wife would love it too as that thing usually starts first pull and cleans the snow right down to the pavement.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

fragger, I'm near by in Maryhill....check out "boats.not" prices much better than in Canada, but shipping can be nasty.... send me a pm if you want, but no experience with a 621


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JnC said:


> The main shaft, that takes most of the impact, is still fine. The collars were added to later model HS621 machines to help support the auger/shaft. The collars should line up perfect with the cracks, just weld them back on either yourself or pay someone $20 to do it for your.
> 
> Nothing wrong with this machine, heck you can use it as it is and not have any issue unless you hit something really hard.
> 
> ...


a 621 in my neck of the woods is like finding Big Foot , The Loch Ness Monster , and the tooth fairy. I'd love to have one.


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## FLSTN (Sep 19, 2014)

Have auger collar welded where it broke and to shaft. Sand and paint auger.
Here are the links for parts. 621 is a great machine. Don't over think it.
Buy/change the belt too, as they wear/stretch also. The bearings may still be good, wait on buying them until it's back together to see. Always buy Honda parts - you get what you pay for.

Good luck.


https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda/snow-blower/hs621-a-b-vin-szan-1038239-to-szan-1099999/auger

https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...in-szan-1038239-to-szan-1099999/auger-housing

https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...vin-szan-1038239-to-szan-1099999/drive-pulley


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

That boats.net site looks pretty good, thanks guys! These are all OEM parts? Much cheaper than KW Honda out here. Curious if I'll get burned with duty fees...

Alright, I'll get the crack welded up, have the collar welded to the shaft, and I'll see about sealing it all up--epoxy primer with an enamel top coat?

I can already see that one of the bearing shields is spinning on the shaft (I think?). Might have to see what's in there and pick up a few spares.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

fragger, you wont find much/any difference here in retail on Honda parts!!! at least that is my experience....


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

contender said:


> fragger, you wont find much/any difference here in retail on Honda parts!!! at least that is my experience....


Yup! Got quotes from four different places this side of the border and they all lined up with one another, where the dealer was actually a bit cheaper than Hinda-authorized shops.

Ended up placing my boats.net order, should be shipped out tomorrow.

Now to look for a welder!


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

I've been getting over a cold and tonight I felt well enough to extract the auger from the machine.

The belt is looking pretty loose, going to order a new one of these. I could just barely make it out, this one is a Mitsubishi and there was a lot of rubber dust on the inside cover. I think every wear part on blower this is original.

The scraper bar still seems to have a bunch of material left... if it was adjusted properly. The bolts are all sharpened to a point.

Metal along the bottom is looking a little beat up and thinned out. I can try to bash this back into shape and hit it with some Rustoleum. *What do you think?*

Both auger bearings are shot. Looks like they're both 6203LU bearings made in Japan by NTN, rated for -40 ~ +120 °C operation.

Got the auger out and the seemingly original paddles (thicker rubber on one side than the other, each piece branded L or R, etc.) without a single broken bolt. Parts shops were trying to up-sell me a full kit of 22 nuts and bolts at $5 per.

All said and done it looks like mostly surface rust on the auger assembly, aside from the broken collars.

Found a welding shop that said all the work I need done should fall under the $60 minimum charge. I'll swing by and see what else I can get covered that $60 fee, maybe try to hit some of the seams or something.

Got it tied down in my trunk ready to go, all before the dinner bell.


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

Got the auger back all welded up; I don't know much about welding, but the beads look better than the factory welds!

Next step is to either paint it myself (zinc phosphate primer + epoxy paint?), or find a shop to do it for me (ask what coating they think would work).

Waiting on paddles and the scraper bar to arrive in the mail.

Hunting for a local source to buy the bearings from.

Left, 'top' and 'bottom':


















Right, 'top' and 'bottom':


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

Took a steel brush, de-greased, and cleaned the auger, and taped off the bearing surfaces. Painted the auger, and put some heat to set the paint. Did this a couple times. After talking to a bunch of coating and paint places around town, I ended up just using Tremclad rust paint + primer. I figure I can touch it up at the end of the season.

Picked up new bearings this morning.

I didn't realize the bearing place sold belts and quickly added one to my order at the cash counter. It's the wrong belt, roughly an inch or two too long. *Do not buy an A38 belt, it's not the same as an LA-38!*

Sat down in front of the tube and put the new rubber on tonight.

It's supposed to be above zero on Wednesday/Thursday/Friday, so that's when I'll get to touching up the paint on the bucket and swapping out the scraper bar, then hopefully getting everything bolted back together.


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## gibbs296 (Jun 22, 2014)

Looks like nice welding and a nice job by you at getting the rest of it ready to go. I'm thinking it will perform well for a long time! Keep us posted!


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

gibbs296 said:


> Looks like nice welding and a nice job by you at getting the rest of it ready to go. I'm thinking it will perform well for a long time! Keep us posted!


Thank you, I think the welds look pretty good as well, hopefully they hold! Hopefully it lasts me more than a few years 


I got out tonight and cleaned up the rest, then went about straightening the bucket with the help of a 2x4, and painting it all up.

The scraper bar was so worn down that the the bucket started dragging and rolling over on the bottom. I straightened the rolls up with a set of slip-joint pliers and a ******* file to take the edges off.

I put it back in the garage and at this point I'm waiting for paint to dry... I'll probably pull it back out and put a heating lamp on it tomorrow.


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## thefragger (Nov 23, 2018)

Well, not much snow this year! The snow blower easily takes care of the dust that we have been getting, but I want a nice big fall to play in!!


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