# Snowblower backfire on Choke outlet



## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

Hello All, I have been searching and doing little adjustments on this issues
I have a Toro ccr 6053 (38575) I got this unit fairly cheap. Old owner said they havent used it in over a year.
Perfect carb repair I thought

I have changed the spark plug, cleaned the carb x 4, put new gas in
The unit tries to start. I can see backfire on the outlet of the choke area. It never really started. While I crank it without fully pulling I can see fuel leaking out of the choke outlet as well.
Do I need a completely new carb? or am I looking at something deeper (valve, timing issues?)

Thanks


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)




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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

hows the oil in it look? looks like a lot of gas coming out of the carb. i would maybe pull the valve cover and check the valves to make sure the valves are moving as they should and maybe check the valve lash while in there.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

It sure looks like it's firing with the intake open. 

I'd do as stated and pop the valve cover to see what's going on. From the IPL pricing, I would guess the cam is plastic.
https://www.partstree.com/models/oh195sa-72567g-tecumseh-engine/engine-parts-list-ohsk5xa-0/


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Check for a critter nest in the exhaust

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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Welcome to SBF Raymond. Here is a link to the Tecumseh OHV service manual. I also would check the valve clearances and look for proper operation. Could be a bent push rod, bad cam shaft or hopefully, valves out of adjustment, which is .004 thousandths each valve. I think your OH195 motor is the same as an OHH-OHSK55-70 in the manual.


http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehoverheadvalvemanual.pdf


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

thanks for the prompt reply guys. So getting a new carb wouldn't solve this? (looking for an easy way out). I spray started inside the engine and it still would start. Ill open it and see. how diff is this process? valve replacement and etc


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Raymund Aguilar said:


> thanks for the prompt reply guys. So getting a new carb wouldn't solve this? (looking for an easy way out). I spray started inside the engine and it still would start. Ill open it and see. how diff is this process? valve replacement and etc


Before you go any further check for a critter nest in the exhaust..I pulled on a rope for three hours one time. ...the engine was doing the same thing as in your video.
The intake valve not fully closing can also cause the issue you are experiencing.
Not sure about your particular engine... But I have see spark plugs that were to long installed and a valve hit it upon opening.
A sheared flywheel key can throw your ignition timing way off(if its electronic)
If it has points it usually won't have a spark though.
A soft pull on the rope with the ignition off should tell you if the intake valve is not closing properly..very low compression and you can hear it coming back out of carb.
Also if the machine did not have an air filter ..a critter could have built on the intake side and a piece of debris can be on the valve not letting it close fully.




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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

Thanks. I pulled it and the spring was loose. the washer that is holding the valve connected was off and sheared. I am hoping everything else is good if I replace that.


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

some pics


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

hopefully you just need a new valve keeper. you might be able remove the rocker arm, pull valve up and put some rope in the cylinder and rotate the piston up to hold the valve up while you install the new keeper. the proper way to do the job would likely be to pull the head and make sure to give everything a good once over but sometimes the gamble pays off.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Raymund Aguilar said:


> some pics


Ouch...it's a wonder the engine even hit at all.
Now you have the possibility of the valve and piston have been colliding with each other.
Put the piston at TDC.
Find a hose to screw into the spark plug hole.
Wrap a piece of wire in keeper land on the valve.
Hold valve up tight and blow in hose with your mouth to see if it's passing air.
It's not a definitive test but will find all but minor damage.



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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

i have to take a break and continue tom. I put the retainer back in a diff direction and it starts. but I forgot to put the head cover so oil went everywhere. but man it starts!


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

lol that is definitely good news but you still may want to buy a new retainer. sounds like you may have got lucky with a cheap fix.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Raymund Aguilar said:


> i have to take a break and continue tom. I put the retainer back in a diff direction and it starts. but I forgot to put the head cover so oil went everywhere. but man it starts!


That's what I call a good day..No damage.



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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

Any chance anyone has an idea what are the valve clearance numbers for this snowblower? Or should i just leave it


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Grunt said:


> valves out of adjustment, which is* .004 thousandths* each valve. I think your OH195 motor is the same as an OHH-OHSK55-70 in the manual.
> http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehoverheadvalvemanual.pdf


looks to be .004. i would double check it to be safe. you are usually suppose to check it eventually anyways.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

The last time I had a keeper go like that, I replaced it and then the valve stem itself broke about 2 operating hours later. The real problem was the valve sticking closed, which caused the damage. I would recommend replacing the valve, keeper and guide as a set.


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

Alright guys, Starting from scratch again
The snowblower was running. Usually dies when choke turns off (thinking a leak gasket or carburetor issue) or Maybe the keeper came off again BUT now it wont even start. Only maybe 1-2 seconds and dies off.

1. I cleaned the carburetor and even replaced it. still no luck
2. I checked the valve keeper and springs again and they are intact
3. I opened and checked the valve and piston and all looks good.
4. My spark plug comes up black and wet AFTER A FEW TRIES. (I tested my sparkplug and I see a nice spark from outside)
5. the gas I put was from when I made this post, do i need fresh gas that often?

I don't know what to do next. I love troubleshooting and learning but it is coming to some point where its just irritating. Did i get a bad carburetor replacement? Should I try a new sparkplug?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

do you still have the old sparkplug? pull the plug and pull the engine over or use the electric start if it has one to clear the cylinder. if the plug has been flooded enough it could have gone bad. they will spark outside the engine but will not fire when in the engine. you can sometimes close up the gap a bit to make them fire and run temporarily but doesn't always work.


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

I cleaned inside when I opened it. I doubt its flooded. i am thinking maybe a flywheel key problem?. The chute did freeze a couple of times when I used it last


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if the spark plug comes out wet after a few pull the system is most likely flooded with fuel and will just foul the plug pretty quick if it is any good at all. that is why i usually crank the engine over with the plug out to try clearing the cylinder but if the plug is bad it will likely just flood the cylinder again. if you still have the old plug it might be worth trying to toss in to see if you can get it to fire.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

That's a common problem with those Tecumseh and LCT motors, the valve train coming apart.


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

ST1100A said:


> That's a common problem with those Tecumseh and LCT motors, the valve train coming apart.


there was a thread just a week back about a similar issue, the OP in the end found the valve keeper had come off on the intake valve


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

87powershiftx2 said:


> there was a thread just a week back about a similar issue, the OP in the end found the valve keeper had come off on the intake valve


this is still the thread.


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

I dont have time at the moment but I am really thinking the flywheel key was sheered.
I because of that, the timing was off and caused the intake valve keeper to break. after fixing the keeper it works for a couple of days but only with choke (could be another isolated fuel issue). 
this time the blower doesn't even turn on and when I pull the cord is hard and at times pulls back.

1. I hope its the flywheel key so i can fix it instead of doing more investigation
2. the full choke issue i hope is resolved with the new carburetor
3. the sparkplug iv cleaned and cranked it without the sparkplug to clean it and also cleaned it when i opened it up. so im thinking this isnt the issue unless ofcourse the flywheel key is intact then I will have to circle back to this


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

for got about how long this one was running.

you found a keeper off, so my bet is the intake valve is bent not seating fully on the seat so every time the piston comes up it's blowing compression back though the carb,


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I agree with @87powershiftx2. As I stated back in Post 18, I would recommend replacing the valve, keeper and guide as a set, and check the valve seats carefully, as well. Once one of those pieces exhibits an issue, all are suspect.


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

tabora said:


> I agree with @87powershiftx2. As I stated back in Post 18, I would recommend replacing the valve, keeper and guide as a set, and check the valve seats carefully, as well. Once one of those pieces exhibits an issue, all are suspect.


Hi Tabora, Thanks for the continued input. 
So if i pull the flywheel and i see that i need a new flywheel key. would you still recommend a new valve kit to replace?i checked the valve and etc. they all look pretty good.
If the flywheel key is not the problem then id replace the valves and etc. but at the moment i dont think its the valves thats causing the problem.


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

ok opened everything up.
Flywheel key is in perfect condition. 
I opened up the head again. noticed intake valve not fully closing. I took everything out and cleaned it and also wire brushed the rest.
It starts again. its late now didnt really have time to let it idle to see if the choke problem went away but from about 5 mins of running I can close the choke 75%. If i fully close it it bogs down and turns off


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Possible the valve is not sealing properly all the way therefore needing the richer mixture to keep it running.
Check for a bent valve or damaged seat and valve face plus a valve sticking in the guide which would require a new valve and guide if they are available. The seats can be reconditioned with the proper tools if they are not too bad and hopefully the seat didn't come loose in the head.
A lot of newer engines those parts are not available, especially the guide. You could ream the guide, but most times you replace the head assembly.


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## 2.137269 (Nov 15, 2019)

more like a bent valve now, chances are to the op that the valve guide will be ok, and he can hand lap a new pair of valve's down ,


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## Raymund Aguilar (Jan 27, 2020)

put new gas . works like a new machine chokes off and runs smooth.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Raymund Aguilar said:


> put new gas . works like a new machine chokes off and runs smooth.


Out of curiosity..did it have e10 in it?



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