# 2nd stage of Storm 2410 won't budge.



## Photobug

I had just got my Troy Bilt Storm 2410 running by cleaning out the carburetor. I made about 3 passes on the driveway when it stopped suddenly. It might have something to do with the rebar I hit. It started right up but when i squeeze the handle to make the auger spin the engine shuts down. I can hear the front where the auger is strain trying to spin the two stages then just shuts down. I have tested the front auger and it spins freely. The second stage, won't even budge. I can see no physical damage to the second stage blades or anywhere where it is stuck or grinding. 

I assume the damage is somewhere deeper inside. What should I do to start this repair? 
Pull off the front augers or open up another area to inspect belts and or transmission?


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## 1132le

I would take off the bet cover and watch what happens when you engage it


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## tpenfield

Agree . . . take the belt cover off and see what you got. Post a few pictures if you can. Also on the auger see if there are some shear pins broken. there should be 4 shear pins . . . one on each auger section. The auger and impeller should rotate together, with the impeller rotating much faster than the auger. If one or more shear pins are broken (i.e. missing) the blade sections would spin without the auger shaft spinning.



Check these things out and let us know what you find. . .

1) How things look under the belt cover
2) A deeper dive into what spins and what does not


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## Photobug

All my shear pins are intact. The Auger spins freely. The impeller does not budge. My local Ace hardware has a 30" version of this snow blower on the floor, I can inspect. On in the auger spins easily but the impeller takes a bit of effort to spin, but it does spin. On mine the auger feels unmoveable. 

Space in my garage which is a woodshop is tight to move this snowblower around. I will do some re-arranging today if I am going to need to get around the blower and start removing panels. 

Can I get a lead as to where the belt cover is on this blower?


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## tpenfield

Belt cover . . . Click thumbnail photo to enlarge . . .


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## gibbs296

Broke something in the gearcase? I would have hoped the shear pins would have gone first, but maybe not.


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## tpenfield

gibbs296 said:


> Broke something in the gearcase? I would have hoped the shear pins would have gone first, but maybe not.



I was also thinking the shear pins should have broken, because that is what they are for . . . 



Anyway, as you look the machine over, tell us what shafts turn and what does not ( 1, 2 or 3), based on the attached picture . . .


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## tabora

It almost looks like there's an empty shear pin hole right in front of the impeller?


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## Photobug

gibbs296 said:


> Broke something in the gearcase? I would have hoped the shear pins would have gone first, but maybe not.


That is what I am feeling also.

I flipped the snowblower up and took off the belly pan to see what is going on there. It all looks good the belts are loose until I pull the mechanism to tighten them. The gear to move the augers/impellers does not budge when I try to move by hand, but the belt seems intact.

When I go around to the business end I can not crank the impeller but I can rotate the auger. It rotates freely as a group. But at one point it go "Kachunk" as I rotate it. Obviously a broken gear somewhere in the gear case. I think the rebar was long ways and went straight into the center and skipped the augers and right into the impeller, that is why the shear pins did not save the day and the gear case took the hit.

Can I get to the gearcase by unbolting it or do I need to remove the whole impeller/auger front end to get at it?


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## gibbs296

Find donnyboy73 vids on youtube.


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## JayzAuto1

Those gear boxes are extremely weak.... not enough white lube in there. The shear pins are much stronger than the gear case. I've rebuilt 6 of those already this year. I buy those brass gears 5 at a time. The machine must be split, pull the auger assembly out, ans strip it down to the 2 cross shafts. sealant only is used, no gasket. Not a hard job, just time consuming.

GLuck, Jay


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## Photobug

JayzAuto1 said:


> Those gear boxes are extremely weak.... not enough white lube in there. The shear pins are much stronger than the gear case. I've rebuilt 6 of those already this year. I buy those brass gears 5 at a time. The machine must be split, pull the auger assembly out, ans strip it down to the 2 cross shafts. sealant only is used, no gasket. Not a hard job, just time consuming.
> 
> GLuck, Jay


I had trouble getting one of the shear pins out. It look like it took a hit but did not give.

I have the whole thing stripped down now but not sure how to split the gear case. Should I slice out the sealant with a utility blade then pry with a screwdriver?

Do I need sealant to put it back together? What kind of sealant, RTV? What kind of lubricant does the gearbox need?


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## kenora




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## Sid

Those shear pins might not be shear pins, sometimes in a pinch, people will put in bolts just to finish the job. Also the auger might be a little or a lot rusted to the shaft. Just saying.
Sid


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## JayzAuto1

I just slice the sealant with a razor knife, then pry with a screwdriver. Clean gear box thoroughly and the old sealant with non-chlorinated brake clean. I use marine grease to fill the box again, while it's apart (fill 1/2 the clam shell). Then I use the Permatex Gray Sealant to button it up.

GLuck. Jay


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## Photobug

My shear pins were authentic. This snowblower was practically brand new. One of the shear pins was seriously bent and I needed to hammer it out.

My gear was badly broken. I have a new one coming overnight. Hopefully I will be snowblowing tomorrow afternoon.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I'd pick up some "00" grease for it. Especially if it's your own machine.

NLGI “00” Grease / Sept 2018


Oregon 4049H 32oz $18.30	Amazon

Prime line SME 706612	32oz $13.49	NAPA

“ PRI 7-06612	32oz O’Reilly


Stens 770-123 32oz $17.72	Amazon

Super S SUS 111 32oz $4.99	Tractor Supply

John Deere	AN102562 14oz tube $5.72	Amazon
NLGI Grade 0


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## Photobug

*Update*

The part did not arrive till Friday. I got in and installed the new gear. The little key piece that fits in the shaft was banged out of place. I had to hammer it back into shape then grind the damaged area to get the key to fit. I installed it and ran the blower for a while that night trying to get the driveway back under control. I did some more blowing today and noticed the blower was leaving piles of snow on either side of itself. I used the bungy on my glove to keep the auger spinning and went to the front to see the augers going the wrong way.

It took me less than half and hour to remove and rebuild the whole thing and it was running great till it hit a rock. I removed the rock bent the auger back into place and it is all good again and running a whole lot better. 


I am wondering what I can do to improve this snowblowers capacity?

Chains
Impeller modification?

What else?


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## nwcove

well...my advice to you would be to sell that machine, and get something much different. those are extremely flimsy in all aspects.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Before it snows pickup the area you're going to be operating in. That and have your skids adjusted so it's not so low that if you're on gravel and scooping up rocks.

Why was the auger spinning backwards ?? Or was it the augers were on backwards ?? There is a left and right :wink2:

I have a 2410 and it's held up just fine over the years doing a 300' gravel driveway. It's no tank like an Ariens or Toro but as long as I'm not sucking up something I shouldn't and running it hard into EOD piles it takes care of my driveway just fine. Only broke one shear pin and that was from pure stupidity of working on something else and leaving a wrench on top of it and not seeing it before it managed to fall in front of and then into the auger. New pin, straighten the auger a bit and good to go.

.


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## Photobug

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Before it snows pickup the area you're going to be operating in. That and have your skids adjusted so it's not so low that if you're on gravel and scooping up rocks.
> 
> Why was the auger spinning backwards ?? Or was it the augers were on backwards ?? There is a left and right :wink2:



Its too late to pick up my yard before it snows. My yard was a construction site this summer and the yard is a work in progress. I had straightened up a bit before leaving town for thanksgiving. It was not expected to snow that week and I came home to a driveway filled with snow and debris. I have tried to clean up the yard and what I can't remove the snow blower has conveniently found for me. My driveway is shared by 4 others and we have someone plow it but the area in front of my garage is not plowed. For years we just shoveled by hand. The TB 2410 will be fine for what it needs to do.

The Augers were installed on the wrong sides. Because I used it in the dark the first night and it was my first time really using the snowblower I did not realize the snowblower was not supposed to leave rows on either side. After i flipped the augers around, the 2410 was working really well even being able to plow through untouched snow into the back yard. The chains still might be nice. 

What is EOD?


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## Motor City

Photobug said:


> That is what I am feeling also.
> 
> I flipped the snowblower up and took off the belly pan to see what is going on there. It all looks good the belts are loose until I pull the mechanism to tighten them. The gear to move the augers/impellers does not budge when I try to move by hand, but the belt seems intact.
> 
> When I go around to the business end I can not crank the impeller but I can rotate the auger. It rotates freely as a group. But at one point it go "Kachunk" as I rotate it. Obviously a broken gear somewhere in the gear case. I think the rebar was long ways and went straight into the center and skipped the augers and right into the impeller, that is why the shear pins did not save the day and the gear case took the hit.
> 
> Can I get to the gearcase by unbolting it or do I need to remove the whole impeller/auger front end to get at it?


Your going to have to split the machine in half and remove the gear case assembly. Probably took out the bronze gear. But may need the worm shaft for the impeller, also.


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## RIT333

Photobug said:


> What is EOD?



EOD is the End Of Driveway mound of snow that the municipal plow operator leaves for you after each storm, or more likely after your are done with your driveway, and just before you leave your driveway to head for work.


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