# New zerks nut won't take grease?!



## wantboost (Aug 5, 2014)

Trying to grease auger shaft . I put new seek fittings but it still won't take grease . Any ideas?


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Is this the auger that won't turn at all or the one that feels very tight or both?

Two thoughts come to mind..
1) screwed them in too deep so they are pushed up against the shaft.. maybe back them out half a turn.
2) There's just so much rust build up that the grease has nowhere to go


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

I'm losing track of posts I have read versus ones I know you've seen.

Did you see this post http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1289290-post4.html

I think #4 might be a way to get PB Blaster into the shafts with or without the torch.. not sure if you have a high temperature torch.

Then add in a bit of #3 if you have a jack hammer


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## Paulie139 (Sep 25, 2017)

Same thing just happened to me on my John Deere lawn mower two weeks ago. I heated the zerk up and the axle either side of it with a cheap/simple Bernzomatic torch and that took care of it. I didn't have to heat it up a lot, just enough to soften/liquefy the grease inside the zerk itself (which is minute) to get it to flow.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

The zerk might be bad or plugged also. Simplest test is unscrew the zerk, plug it into a grease gun and give it a pump. If grease comes out the threaded end then it's good. Next would be pull the shear bolts and see if the auger rakes spin on the shaft or not. If it doesn't spin then it's likely rusted on.


I have a pdf on how I remove rusted on rakes using torches and culminating with a hydraulic press. It may not be the fastest way around but I have done it to several augers and gotten everything to come loose. I anyone wants it, pm me an email address and I'll send it along.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

HCBPH said:


> The zerk might be bad or plugged also. Simplest test is unscrew the zerk, plug it into a grease gun and give it a pump. If grease comes out the threaded end then it's good. Next would be pull the shear bolts and see if the auger rakes spin on the shaft or not. If it doesn't spin then it's likely rusted on...


Yes I've already been helping him on one of his other threads... the augers ARE rusted on. One is rusted solid 100% and the other is very tight so it's rusted 90%. Hate it when that happens.

Hey wantboost... if you post your questions onto a single thread instead of one thread per question it will help folks like HCBPH (Paul) see the full context of what's going on and what's already been tried... just a thought.  That's also why I'm forgetting which posts and references I've already shown you and which I haven't. I have to go hunting the other threads to try to remember.  That way you'll get your silver bullet solution faster.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

A new idea just popped up on the auger rake thread... are you subscribed to that thread? 

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...nce-forum/118762-stuck-rake-fun-new-post.html

I'm a bit worried to suggest you try it because you could trash your auger gear-box if you get it wrong... it's a bit risky.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

stuart80112 said:


> A new idea just popped up on the auger rake thread... are you subscribed to that thread?
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...nce-forum/118762-stuck-rake-fun-new-post.html
> 
> I'm a bit worried to suggest you try it because you could trash your auger gear-box if you get it wrong... it's a bit risky.


yes it is risky stu. 

i let mine soak with my dads old mix for 24 hours and was lucky in many ways, A- the 2x4 didn't break acting like a large arrow. B- the auger didn't do like wise sending shrapnel though my shop area killing me or maiming some one else, 

when i did engage the auger i went as slow as the machine would let me, i also had loosened the belt so it could slip more,and was lucky it did break loose fast, where it could have stayed locked on solid , 51 year old blower could have been more problems


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

If you got the auger rakes loose and off, here's what I've been recommending for some time. Take the rakes off the shaft, clean the shaft up as much as possible using wire brushes, emery paper, abrasive blasting etc. If you can work some brushes etc through the inside of the rakes, do it. Use some form of rust encapsulation material on the shaft and pour it through the rakes too. Once that's done and dry, coat with something like Rustoleum paint. Before reassembly coat the shaft well with grease or my preference anti-seize. Lubricate on a regular basis after pulling the shear bolts and spin the rakes on the shaft.


Works surprisingly well. at least it does for me.


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

87 powershift said:


> yes it is risky stu....


You got lucky... but you knew what you were doing and knew the risks and took the extra precautions like loosening the belt and coming at it really gently by feathering the auger control... nice result! I'll keep it in mind for one of my braver moods. ;-)


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Here is another one of HCBPH (Paul) excellent documents. (mentioned here in post #5 and #9)
This time describing "Removing Rusted Auger Rakes" and includes an auger gearbox rebuild too.
It's much more than what wantboost is currently trying and hopefully he won't need to go this far... but it really is an excellent reference (as always).
Thanks Paul

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0J8tVzfnr5VdFhmbzhIamhWd28/view?usp=sharing


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

87 powershift said:


> yes it is risky stu.
> 
> i let mine soak with my dads old mix for 24 hours and was lucky in many ways, A- the 2x4 didn't break acting like a large arrow. B- the auger didn't do like wise sending shrapnel though my shop area killing me or maiming some one else,
> 
> when i did engage the auger i went as slow as the machine would let me, i also had loosened the belt so it could slip more,and was lucky it did break loose fast, where it could have stayed locked on solid , 51 year old blower could have been more problems


i'm kinda new at this and wouldn't have thought of loosening the belt or your other precautions and probably would have trashed the gearbox.

anyway, all this info is good. just wondering , before putting the zerks on , wouldn't you take the augers apart and clean up and grease everything first?


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## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

orangputeh said:


> i'm kinda new at this and wouldn't have thought of loosening the belt or your other precautions and probably would have trashed the gearbox.
> anyway, all this info is good. just wondering , before putting the zerks on , wouldn't you take the augers apart and clean up and grease everything first?


I've been following and helping on all his threads so I'll summarize for you.
He already had zerks on the augers. He was trying to add grease to loosen them up. Presumably he couldn't get the grease to flow so he put new zerks on instead hoping it would help the flow.
The basic problem is the rust and he's trying to avoid dismantling all the augers by trying some simple tricks first. He may be forced into it later.
One auger is 100% frozen with rust... the other is 90% frozen and really stiff to move with the shear bolts out.
That's why we are hopping backwards and forwards between this thread, his other threads and the "Auger Fun " thread. It's all the same issue.

By the way, just to add insult to injury... It's a Canadian Craftsman so the manuals, parts lists and diagrams aren't available... it took a bunch of hassle just trying to figure out the right belts to use.
The repair store gave him the wrong belt at one stage so that didn't help. I guess they didn't measure it properly.

So far we've been doing the basics like changing out a bad belt, lubing everything that moves and now we are stuck with the rusted augers.
This one's been neglected I'm afraid and had a tough life.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

stuart80112 said:


> I've been following and helping on all his threads so I'll summarize for you.
> He already had zerks on the augers. He was trying to add grease to loosen them up. Presumably he couldn't get the grease to flow so he put new zerks on instead hoping it would help the flow.
> The basic problem is the rust and he's trying to avoid dismantling all the augers by trying some simple tricks first. He may be forced into it later.
> One auger is 100% frozen with rust... the other is 90% frozen and really stiff to move with the shear bolts out.
> ...


thanks for the info. well with your help and other members' advice this blower will have a second chance at life. It's a real shame when one is sent to the junkyard.

I have a couple 30 year plus Honda's that I hope will last forever with proper maintenance.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

i think stu. has pretty much said it all. when all fails, it becomes time to take it all apart, so the augers can be worked on better and easier, first step is having a fire extinguisher or a hose right at hand, then it's red and green wrench or map torch time, lube, soak, heat,try, lube, soak,heat, try to spin, repeat , personally i've had them work loose the first time,other times 3 and 4. just take your time. be as careful as possible. 3rd deg burns and a burn unit are not fun," been there 3 graft operations, 7 weeks in the hospital" 
at some point the combo will allow the rust to break loose. just be careful to not overheat to glowing hot. that can cause even more problems from heat fatigue. you need just enough heat to expand the tubing, 
when free carefully clean the shaft or shafts, find a round steel wire bush with a long shaft on a drill to clean the auger bore, apply lots of never seize on reassembly


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