# Craftsman 5/23 drive and engine issues



## archangel (Aug 31, 2011)

Craftsman 5/23 with treads, not wheels, and it was made in 1987.

*The history and the drive issue.*

Well, I tore it apart for inspection just after I purchased it last summer
I replace the friction wheel, it's shaft and it's end bushing that failed (because the last place that worked on it put it in backwards loosing any side play control) with a bearing.

I adjusted the belts.
Swapped out the fuel line and added a shut off valve.
Replaced a slightly worn plastic bushing for an identical bronze one.
MIG welded the shoe faces.
Inspected everything (belts, return springs, pins and what not) and it all looks good.

I tested it for a long while to make sure everything worked.
It ran perfectly in every way, shifting, starting, stopping.

Now, the first snow of the season hits and after a few minutes of running time, when I let loose of the tread power handle, it keeps going!

Also, after a minute or two of operation, it is reluctant to shift either way, (faster, slower, reverse, forward) that is until I finally get the handle to move to another speed, then it moves fine in every way, until a couple minutes go by during use, the it does not want to shift again.

It acts like something is binding.

And yes, I reinstalled the bottom plate after working on it.

Could snow still be getting in there and gumming things up?
*
IT SUCKS THAT MY SNOW BLOWER ONLY WORKS RIGHT IN THE SUMMER!!!*

*The engine issue.*

1: It wont last forever so at some time it will need to be replaced.
2: 5-hp on this one just lacks throwing force 90% of the time unless the snow is light and fluffy or I only take a pass that is less than half of the machines designed cutting width. 

A Craftsman 5/10 that only looks like a Craftsman 5/23?

I looked for a replacement engine, (5HP and 10 HP are about the same size) but this engine has 2 pulleys, and they rotate in opposite directions at different speeds.
One drives the treads, the other the auger.
I have looked on line and can't find any engine of any HP rating with 2 pulleys, much less 2 counter rotating pulleys!

Any ideas on either issue?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

For the drive:
When you greased everything you might have used normal grease. When it gets cold it tends to stiffen up and make things much harder to move. There is some other types of cold weather grease that stay thin down to -40 or something. If you can get some snowmobile grease that should probably work.

The other possibility is you have a weak return spring. You could try replacing the springs or possibly just cleaning the old grease off and replacing it. When I got my Ariens it was the same way. You could push the lever down, but the old grease was so thick and dirty it wouldn't come back up on its own. I used PB Blaster to clean the moving parts and put some oil on them.

For the engine:
Briggs does make a couple select 2 shaft engines for rototillers. You are correct when you say they are much harder to find. I do see the older 5HP - 10HP Tecumsehs on ebay occasionally. But don't get too excited, wait until you see the price on those things.

Maybe get it running better then sell it or trade it for something that only uses a single shaft engine.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Blower issues*

Archangel

Shyrp has you on the right direction, but it would be helpful to have the model along with any pictures.

On the drive issue, it sounds like the friction disc is not releasing from the friction wheel once engaged. Here's a picture of one (not yours) just for an example









In this one the friction disc assembly moves in and out while in some of the others, the friction wheel assembly moves and the disc doesn't. Either way, if they're in contact then as Shryp indicated, the machine will keep moving along with it will be hard to shift. Additionally the friction disc must move side to side to shift gears. If they're in contact, it will be harder. I think as was indicated, they're still in contact, which would explain both your drive issues.

The 5 HP Tecumseh is a very solid, dependable engine. Before I replaced it, I'd insure it really needed replacing and wasn't related to some issue - like needing a carb adjustment, etc. Twin shaft engines aren't that easy to find, but they can be found for a price, both new and used. Just watch the main shaft length, diameter and height from the chassis.
It would definitely be easier to find a single shaft engine than a double shaft. Some replacement engines for generators etc have a tapered shaft vs. straight, so they either need the crank changed or different pulleys acquired.

Along with that, I'm not a big fan of tracks vs wheels. I've seen a couple of them rust up over the years, mainly due to not having grease zerks and water getting into them and ultimately rusting them up solid.

Selling this one once running and getting a single shaft model may be the easiest solution for you.

Good luck


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## archangel (Aug 31, 2011)

I only lubed what was already greased when I got it.

I was unsure if what was, and was not supposed to be lubed.

I was concerned about the grease locking things up so I assumed they were run dry.

I'll head over and get some cold temp grease from the local place that sells snowmobiles and lube the friction wheel shaft.

I'll also look at the shifter shaft pivot points.

Thanks guys!


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## archangel (Aug 31, 2011)

*Update.*

Well, I got some synthetic grease and greased the shaft to aid in shifting speeds.

But as far as the drive wheel with the rubber like surface goes.

The wheel is leaving rubber residue on the mirror smooth drive plate face where it contacts it, and when the drive plate with the "scuffed on" rubber touches the rubber faced wheel, it is sticking like Velcro!

I assume that after running it a short while (25 to 30 feet), enough residue rubs off to make it stick.
The the next time the wheel is in that place it sticks after a few seconds of running.

In other pictures of these plates, I do not see the witness marks that the other wheels are leaving residue on the plates of other units.

I did get my drive wheel from Sears so I assume the material is correct.

I installed it as I got it and assumed it was not supposed to be either cleaned or coated with anything.

Any Ideas?


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

sounds like a bad wheel. shouldnt have anything left behind.

or

make sure friction wheel has enough pressure against the plate. may be tight enough to drive the blower but loose enough to "Burn" rubber off. when material builds up it gets sticky.


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## archangel (Aug 31, 2011)

The friction plate makes contact with the friction wheel with 1/2 pull of the handle so there should be plenty of pressure.

Also I don't try to shift until the drive treads stop turning so I know the plate and wheel have to be free, or not touching.

I do remember the old rubber drive wheel had a slight silvery look to it, almost like it had dusting of graphite on it.

This one looks like plain rubber.

Motorcycle tires use Cosmoline to prevent oxidation while it waits for purchase and it make the tires VERY SLICK!
I just have to wonder if there is something on the friction wheel as well.

I replaced the drive wheel because there was a huge crack, and it would momentarily pause while moving unless it was going top speed.

I'm going to clean the wheel and disc with alcohol and lightly dust the wheel with graphite. With the amount of force on the drive wheel, I doubt the wheel will lose traction.


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## archangel (Aug 31, 2011)

And the driveway was snowblown without a hitch!

The Graphite caused the wheel to completely slip for about 20 seconds, then it grabbed for a split second, a then it grabbed more and after a minute or two, it was working fine!

I still have to check the plate for rubber residue, but I think the application of a little graphite to the rubber wheel was the trick.


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## archangel (Aug 31, 2011)

td5771 said:


> sounds like a bad wheel. shouldnt have anything left behind.
> 
> or
> 
> make sure friction wheel has enough pressure against the plate. may be tight enough to drive the blower but loose enough to "Burn" rubber off. when material builds up it gets sticky.


The rubber wheel and drive plate only drives the wheel/tread.
The blower runs off a second pulley that runs off the engine and turns the other way.


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