# Motor Mount Bolts



## Digger 66 (Apr 16, 2015)

Any of you re-power gurus know how the mounting bolts are fastened to the chassis .
The model I'm repowering is a late '60's 6 HP Sno-Thro ( the one that accepts all the front attachments ) .


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

They are pressed on. A few hits with a hammer and they come right out


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

fwiw.....i cut the studs off about 1/4 " above the chassis and welded extensions on. it seemed like the easiest option for me as there isnt much room to get anything like hands or tools up past the transmission parts.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I have cut the studs off, and then drilled through and tapped the hole to accept 5/16 bolts. This is especially helpful on the 73-4 10000 series forward bolts.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

They are spot welded. I believe they have 3 spot welds each. I have knocked them out with a sledge hammer.


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## Digger 66 (Apr 16, 2015)

Thanks for the replies fellas .
I was whacking them pretty good with the four-pounder & they weren't budging .


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

I don't understand why but I've had the best luck cutting them with angle grinder so there's about 1/4" then used a framing hammer to whack them out, maybe it's the heat?


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## Digger 66 (Apr 16, 2015)

I think I'm going to grind them off flush , center-punch , drill & tap as stated above .

Thanks again to all that replied .

-Gene


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

If you do the drill and tap method, I suggest adding nuts on the rearward bolts inside the chassis; they are easy to put on, and use Red Threadlocker on all the newly tapped threads as well. GL!


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## Digger 66 (Apr 16, 2015)

Jackmels said:


> If you do the drill and tap method, I suggest adding nuts on the rearward bolts inside the chassis; they are easy to put on, and use Red Threadlocker on all the newly tapped threads as well. GL!


I would add stainless aircraft type lock-nuts on all four .


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

If you can find room get nuts on the front ones, My hat's off to you. The reason that I drill and tap is lack of room inside the chassis, more so with the 73-4 models. I have also knocked out the studs and replaced with bolts from the inside, but on the forward bolts had to grind one side off the hex head to get the bolt through. There is a wall that interferes with a bolts placement. Not my First Rodeo.


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## Digger 66 (Apr 16, 2015)

Jackmels said:


> If you can find room get nuts on the front ones, My hat's off to you. The reason that I drill and tap is lack of room inside the chassis, more so with the 73-4 models. I have also knocked out the studs and replaced with bolts from the inside, but on the forward bolts had to grind one side off the hex head to get the bolt through. There is a wall that interferes with a bolts placement. Not my First Rodeo.


I'll get 'em in there . No "wall" that I can see .


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

The wall I am refering to is the front of the chassis. Keep in mind, I am doing this with ALL the internals intact. Piece of cake if you've got it torn apart. Can't tell what year your project is. The 73-4s are a bit different than the 65-72. Have fun with your project.


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## Digger 66 (Apr 16, 2015)

Jackmels said:


> Can't tell what year your project is.


I believe it's a '68


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## Digger 66 (Apr 16, 2015)




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