# Toro1028 powershift



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Well ive been on the hunt for a blower for this season.. was wondering what your guys opinion is on the 1028 powershift.. i have a 30 ft driveway, 10ft wide and live near buffalo ny so we get alot of snow. Anyway im not a mechanic at all and dont have much of an idea on how carbs work.. he says its a 2003 and has a tecumseh motor on it and says its well maintained. Its a 30 min drive from me and he said he would take 350. What do you guys think?
Would love to post pics but cant figure it out


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to SBF Doylee4693

I have a 1332 I love but I don't see any link to the one you're asking about. :sad2:


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

I would love to post a pic on here but cant figure it out lol can you direct me? It does look clean. And to be honest id hat to post a link to it and be beat to the punch because of it, snowblowers around here sell for exactly what there worth or more, so when one pops up for a good deal its gone fast.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

These are the original poster's pictures.
The location is top secret ;-)

Hey welcome to the forum!!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I understand what you're saying about someone beating you to it.

I got mine for $310 a couple winters ago and it was a steal. If you're interested in it that price isn't bad. You can always look it over and see if there is anything to bring to their attention and see if they'll knock some off.
I don't think $350 is bad for one of those in good shape. Just depends on if they're willing to let you go and hang on to it. Will likely go easily for the $350 once the snow starts falling (IMHO). Just make sure it was stored inside in the off seasons.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

That's weird.. I just lost a post I made... it came and went.
Here it is again..

Manuals etc are probably here:https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=3140


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Ok thats great info.. anything you can tell me to look out for on close inspection? Please be very detailed as I have zero knowledge on snowblowers at the moment, but I am reallly curious


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> .... Anyway im not a mechanic at all and dont have much of an idea on how carbs work.. ...


He should show you it running.
Don't worry about being a mechanic.... there are LOTS of videos to walk you through the steps of doing your first carb clean (if it's necessary).
Lots of videos on just about everything you'll ever want to do to a snowblower. You'll pick it up so fast you'll get hooked. Even I can do it.
Make sure you see the engine running, and the augers turning properly (they are things that hit the snow at the front) and make sure the "gears" or "speeds" work going forwards and reverse.
Also look for any non-cosmetic rust around the front bucket area especially where the wide bucket meets the narrow neck. Ideally ask him to lift the machine onto its nose so you can see rust underneath where the bucket meets the neck. The reason I say that is that if the machine has been used over rocks or gravel that part of the neck can suffer structural damage. Regular surface rust is to be expected and OK.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Check this out too
The guy who does this video has the BEST videos around.... DonyBoy73

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...=wFOVWb_QP5k&usg=AOvVaw1rV48O-PMXROd0Q_SwJ2Jr


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Ok good, i appreciate it. Il make sure to test the gears and auger, and check underneath. Im glad theres vids for this stuff because i like to mess with my motorcycles, but only when I can watch a how to vid first haha. Youtube has been a major help in maintaining my motorcycle and truck.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I forgot to mention there is the impeller mod. It's putting rubber blades onto the impeller blades to help it work really well with wet snow. Once you get your hands on it we can talk about all the stuff. 

Youtube is you friend. Just let your fingers do the walking and learn what you can before you head out to check it out.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> Ok good, i appreciate it. Il make sure to test the gears and auger, and check underneath. Im glad theres vids for this stuff because i like to mess with my motorcycles, but only when I can watch a how to vid first haha. Youtube has been a major help in maintaining my motorcycle and truck.


Oh wow... if you can work on motorcycles and trucks then these things are a piece of cake.
Get something wrong on a vehicle and lives are at risk... get something wrong on a snowblower and you'll just need to grab a shovel until you can sort it out.
The only thing that may be new to you is dealing with parts that are severely rusted together.. but cross that bridge if you come to it.
That machine looks pretty clean but (for example) you won't know if the wheels pop off easily without rust until you have a need to find out.


Edit: another thing to look for is blue smoke coming from the exhaust but you knew that from you motorcycle experience.
Piston rings etc etc. Similarly strange tapping or knocking noises from the engine.. valves and connecting rods...again.. you know that.

Edit: One other thing that is specific to these Powershifts that we didn't mention..
Ask him to show you the Powershift in action. It's where the machine can be "elongated" to change its center of gravity to allow it to really dig in when it needs to.
Picture paints a thousand words...


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Is that what that thing was doing, thats SOME kind of machine. Il keep an eye out for smoke but isnt a little normal? My john deere mowers been doing it since new and never got worse... with the choke on it lets of a tad at start.. i dont want to lead anyone on, most of the motorcycle work ive done has been electrical as my bikes are all brand new... aside from oil change, spark plugs,air cleaner, and brakes, im a bit out of my element. I have noticed just by looking at different threads that ariens and honda has the least problems of all.. but beggers cant be choosers. He did just message me back and confirms everything works and that its just to big for him. Im in a bind money wise so I really hope this machine can get thru this winter untill I can either get something newer of get a compact 4wd tractor with a plow.


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

And how the hey do i test the powershift while im at his home? Cant do it like the video haha. Also he said it was made in 2003, is there A tag to look for on it to confirm that?


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> And how the hey do i test the powershift while im at his home? Cant do it like the video haha. Also he said it was made in 2003, is there A tag to look for on it to confirm that?


Never played with one.. I was about to get one recently but it fell through. I suspect you can hold the machine up at the handle bars and push the activator and the wheels may roll in and out... but I honestly don't know... he'll know if it can or can't be demonstrated. I just wanted you to know what it is you are actually buying because it sounds like a rush job and you might not know what a Powershift really is. ;-)

The manufacture date is usually decipherable from the Serial numbers on the Blower itself and/or on the engine... but obviously not the sale date. 
Here's how.. http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/7262-post3.html

I usually don't care because for me... the older the better... I'm usually looking for something 30 or 40 or 50 years old.... but that's just my thing. 

Hey Toros are fine.. especially older ones...don't worry too much about the Honda/Yamaha/Ariens thing... not for a budget of a few hundred.
Unless you get a total lemon you'll soon be looking forward to the snow to go play. 

Smoke and noises? You'll know it when you see it. After the first couple of seconds once the choke is off etc it should be quite clear.
Let the engine run for ten minutes if you can or until you know it's warmed up. Not exactly fun to breathe the fumes.. but it should not be smokey.

EDIT: one last thing (for now at least) 1028 means 10HP 28 inch wide augers. That's a decent sized machine... too big for some.. just right for others... but not overly huge like(say) 32" and above.
My biggest is 10HP 32" I believe and my smallest two-stage is a Toro 5HP 21". I also have a bunch of single stages too. I have too many.


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

I mentioned the age because he said its an 03, he said he would have to go home and check and he told me an hour later... im guessing he didnt check the seriel number and he just looked at a tag on it that mentioned 2003.. if not I could always use it to get the price down even lower. Im just interested to know how he got the year, when everyone says theres no way to determine the exact year without looking the serial up.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> I mentioned the age because he said its an 03, he said he would have to go home and check and he told me an hour later... im guessing he didnt check the seriel number and he just looked at a tag on it that mentioned 2003.. if not I could always use it to get the price down even lower. Im just interested to know how he got the year, when everyone says theres no way to determine the exact year without looking the serial up.


Maybe there IS a date label. You'll see it if there is. Or maybe he has the manuals and wrote the date he bought it on the front page. Who knows? Some people even keep receipts that long.

The reason folks talk about serial numbers is just because that's usually the guaranteed way to figure it out. You can often tell to the actual day of the year too. .. usually encoded as a number from 1 to 365 (366?)
One date for the engine, another date for the blower itself.


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Ok, im gonna pushing this thing thru about 30 feet of grass before i get to concrete, am I gonna have any problems with that? Blade digging in ground ect.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> Ok, im gonna pushing this thing thru about 30 feet of grass before i get to concrete, am I gonna have any problems with that? Blade digging in ground ect.


Shouldn't have a problem. Start the engine and push down on the handlebars as you roll forward to keep the auger bucket and skids a few inches off the ground. That's always a good idea when transporting even on snow. You only want it on the ground when you are actually clearing snow or if it's standing still.... that way you avoid bumps and lumps and non-level concrete slabs or scratching the concrete on your driveway when there's no snow at all. You'll want it in the short mode (not Powershift-extended) I suspect.

EDIT: take a paper towel and make sure the engine oil is OK before anyone starts it.... you never know how careful he's been... pity to throw a connecting rod in the first 5 minutes!
Don't worry if it's black.. you are going to change it anyway.. just make sure it's not low on oil.


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Yeah thats a good idea, ok im feeling much more confident in the purchase. Cant wait to get it home to change oil and clean air filter.. im done paying the plowman.. this should pay for itself in no time. Feelin a little more independent.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> Yeah thats a good idea, ok im feeling much more confident in the purchase. Cant wait to get it home to change oil and clean air filter.. im done paying the plowman.. this should pay for itself in no time. Feelin a little more independent.


That's awesome... I hope you get another 20 years out of it. Main thing will be to watch 5 or 10 videos from DonyBoy and you'll be rocking and rolling in no time. 
Pretty much every question you'll have is on a DonyBoy video or some other video somewhere. Feel free to get back though if you want or need a second opinion on anything.

Here's your first google assignment for tonight... see if you can figure out whether snowblowers have air filters or not and why that is?
Then your second assignment... what type of engine oil do they use and why? 
You'll get hooked on the videos.. guaranteed!

All the best and good luck for now


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> And how the hey do i test the powershift while im at his home? Cant do it like the video haha. Also he said it was made in 2003, is there A tag to look for on it to confirm that?


I just looked at your photos again... one of them shows the machine in extended mode and the other in short mode so I guess he WILL be able to demo it switching from one to the other. Sweet!


----------



## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

man garb that beast before it gets away,
the powershift is toro's version of a ford Ferguson tractor IMM. i had 2 just sold a 97 824 last month for 300. the 1028 at that price is a don't try to play cheap just buy it.

problem wise the only issues i ever had was the oilite bearings and bushing on the auger, impeller and legs all a easy fix. the legs the bushings tend to lock up on the axle, take the leg off reinstall the bushing by using 2 small screws, drill and tap though it to the center for a 1/4x 28 threaded grease fitting, same with the other 3 clam shell bearings,they get held in place by a short screw in stud, in the clam shell case, again drill and tap, the zerk fitting will work like the stock stud, after that i never had another issue with them, a few shots of grease each year , 

to test the powershift is easy , just get on a driveway or walk, so the tires garb solid , push the lever forward the legs move back again they move forward if it has the optional differential kit installed, make sure the diff is locked before trying to powershift it, both tires need to bite for it to work properly. 
toro also has a great web site, going by the model number you find out what year it is, plus down load all the manuals service parts are a most.


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Well boys things fell thru and here I am with an ariens 926le in my garage that I got for 300.... i have to say im a little bummed, didnt notice it upon inspection but after getting it home the gear box on the auger is seeping oil... bummer man


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> Well boys things fell thru and here I am with an ariens 926le in my garage that I got for 300.... i have to say im a little bummed, didnt notice it upon inspection but after getting it home the gear box on the auger is seeping oil... bummer man


That's a pity on the Toro.
Is it leaking big time or is it just some slow leakage that's built up over time? Post pictures now then try cleaning it off with gasoline and get the gearbox looking totally clean...then watch it for a few days with a piece of clean cardboard underneath to catch any drips to see if it's really leaking and how much and where it's leaking from. Get back once you're certain how bad the problem is. No point talking about cracked casings or changing gaskets and seals until you are sure what the diagnosis is. Good luck.

*EDIT:
Warning: For anyone stumbling onto this thread in the future..
Post #24 and beyond is talking about an Ariens not a Toro - We will be ending this thread at #41 to avoid that confusion*


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Well it was running rough when got it home, cleaned the carb for the first time and for my first time, the bowl screw really needs a new gasket baad.. got everything back together and now it wont start at all.. had a feeling that was gonna happen... wierd thing is when i press the primer it doesnt feel like its doing anything at all, plut the little clip that goes under the bowl, i may have installed that wrong as the info vid i was watching just so happened to do that part off camera haha


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Heres the video I watched... btw the carb looked very clean... when i got it home I pressed the primer a few times and gas came out of the carb area... holy smokes!


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

I'm not seeing the video.. did you remember to cut-n-paste the link? ;-)

Gas coming out of the choke when you prime is not too unusual. If it's coming from the top of the bowl the o-ring/gasket may be mis-positioned and trapped. Need to know exactly where it's coming from and how much.

Not sure which clip you are referring to until I see that video or you post a picture.

Did you remember to connect the little black primer hose onto the carb? Has it dropped off again? Is it damaged or twisted and trapped therefore closing it off? Is it a nice snug fit onto the carb?

If the gasket on the screw-in plug is not leaking.. it's good enough for the time being while you get things going.

No need to worry too much... we'll get you sorted.


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Sorry i forgot to post the link.. at first it was comming out of the bowl because i didnt realize you had to line the bowl up a certain way when putting it back on, as this video describes. Anyway after redoing it it still wont start... also priming the thing was only pushing air thru the carb and not gas.. thanks man, im definatly a novice... i look things up and people are using terms and stuff that im not familiar with, its a little concerning lol..im just proud that i was able to pull the carb off and work on it in the first place.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

While I am watching the video and thinking.... does the gas tank have a shut-off valve... did you remember to turn it back on ;-) I've done that WAY too many times


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

I'm still not getting which clip you are talking about. Can you take a picture and attach it?
Or spot the part number on this diagram?


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Well heres the wierd thing... I tested it at his house and all was grand, got home and realized the line was in the off position.. turned it back on... no change...the pins im talking about is 30 in that diagram. Any idea why no fluids moving thrue the line when i prime it.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

By the way.... read my sig... there's no such thing as a dumb question.
If there are some terms you don't understand... tell me what they are and I'll explain them as best as I can.

The first time you do ANYTHING it's all new and scary and you imagine the worst case scenario... after you've cleaned 3 or 4 carbs you'll be doing it in your sleep. Even I can do it.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> Well heres the wierd thing... I tested it at his house and all was grand, got home and realized the line was in the off position.. turned it back on... no change...the pins im talking about is 30 in that diagram. Any idea why no fluids moving thrue the line when i prime it.


So it's all about a process of elimination.
Here's what I'd do..

1) remove the fuel line from the carb and get ready to stick your thumb over the fuel line or put a clamp on it real quick..... does fuel come out? If so ... you know it's reaching the carb so put it back on.

2) If it's not reaching the carb... the problem must be upstream towards the gas tank which could be...
a) No gas or not enough gas in the tank.
b) fuel shut-off valve is turned to the "stop" position
c) If there is a little fuel filter on the gas line it may be blocked with junk
d) if someone took that filter off recently... they may have put it on back to front... some filters will only allow a flow in one direction not the other.
e) a blockage in the fuel line
f) There is often a little mesh filter inside the tank where the gas leaves the tank... that can be blocked with gunk
g) The gas cap may have blocked the air vents so it's not letting air in... to test that... just remove the cap and see if it fixes the fuel flow.

Check to make sure gas is reaching the carb then come back with results and we'll go to the next step of elimination


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Ok i just went out to start it and the girl was out of gas from it all leakimg out of carb, the guy must of had like 50c worth of gas in it... fine with me, as I can add my non ethnol gas. Anyway she started up but still when i pressed the primer i saw gas comming out of carb.. it was hard to determine where it was commin from, was just leaking down the bowl.. bowl gasket maybe? Anyway as you would imagine she ran but was running rough, no smoke except for a little at startup.even a little fire comming out of the muffler with a pop...


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> Ok i just went out to start it and the girl was out of gas from it all leakimg out of carb, the guy must of had like 50c worth of gas in it... fine with me, as I can add my non ethnol gas. Anyway she started up but still when i pressed the primer i saw gas comming out of carb.. it was hard to determine where it was commin from, was just leaking down the bowl.. bowl gasket maybe? Anyway as you would imagine she ran but was running rough, no smoke except for a little at startup.even a little fire comming out of the muffler with a pop...


No gas? that was 2a ;-) We all do it... no worries.

Gas leak:
The gas leaking from carb could easily be the bowl gasket as you say. It may just be time for a gasket or the gasket may be slightly out of position or twisted
It could also be because you have corrosion or gunk around the rim of the bowl where it needs to seal against that gasket.. clean it with a SOFT brass wire brush or even your thumb nail if it's dirty or has crusty varnish or corrosion on it.
It could also be because you didn't tighten the bolt firmly enough but BE CAREFUL if you crank on it you'll easily snap that if it's an adjustable jet/bolt.. needs to be just a bit tighter than finger tight and watch the top of the bowl snug up against the gasket.
It could also be a tiny pinhole somewhere on the bowl 
Could also be coming out of the choke then dribbling down... that is fairly normal for it to spit a little when you prime it.

Back fire out of the exhaust:
That's more worrying if it's persistent.... does it stop soon after you start the engine or is it constantly (or frequently) spitting flames out of the exhaust muffler?
I won't say any more on that until you answer that... don't want to freak you out ;-)


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

stuart80112 said:


> No gas? that was 2a ;-) We all do it... no worries.
> 
> Gas leak:
> The gas leaking from carb could easily be the bowl gasket as you say. It may just be time for a gasket or the gasket may be slightly out of position or twisted
> ...


Im still concerned about that number 30 pin i mentioned also. I cranked it down pretty good the bowl, the bowl nut had a gasket but it fell apart as i pulled it off, was gonna ask about where I can find part numbers. I would like to just buy a new bowl and gasket and gasket for the bowl nut, do you think the gas is commin from the bowl nut also?.. also should I be buying a new pin and seat as the guy did in that video i posted? It spit a flame once about 10 seconds after starting while she was mid choke, i get it alot on my cruiser and figured it was unburnt fuel


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> Im still concerned about that number 30 pin i mentioned also. I cranked it down pretty good the bowl, the bowl nut had a gasket but it fell apart as i pulled it off, was gonna ask about where I can find part numbers. I would like to just buy a new bowl and gasket and gasket for the bowl nut, do you think the gas is commin from the bowl nut also?.. also should I be buying a new pin and seat as the guy did in that video i posted? It spit a flame once about 10 seconds after starting while she was mid choke, i get it alot on my cruiser and figured it was unburnt fuel


So the way the float carb works is pretty simple..
If the carb bowl is full of gas, the float rises (if it's not damaged and full of liquid) and pushes the needle valve up into the rubber seat to stop the gas flow... that's all the stuff labeled as 30
When the gas gets low in the bowl, the float drops and pulls the needle away from the seat to let more gas in
rinse and repeat

So the only role that clip plays is to pull down on the needle when the float is dropping. When the float is rising, it's the metal strip (called a "tang") on the float that pushes up on the needle.
There's no particular important way to get that clip in position... just so long as the long straight piece is hooked to the "tang" and the coiled bit is fastened to the ridge on the needle
If the needle is going up and down when the float goes up and down you're fine.
The manuals tell you which direction that clip should face but it really doesn't matter so long as the needle is going up and down at the right time to start or stop the gas flow.
Make sense?
Also you may or may not have the assist spring (#26) no big deal from my experience.

If that bolt washer or gasket split in two then the fuel leak is CERTAINLY coming from there.
You will need a new washer/gasket for certain... in the meantime as a very temporary measure you can make one with a bit of card like a business card or a bit thicker or better still any thin squishy stuff you can put your hands on. Something like a bit of leather or plastic something-or-other or thin cork or (ideally) a bit of gas-resistant gasket material if you have any. Whatever you do ... DO NOT CRANK THAT NUT to try to stop the leak..... you need a real gasket/washer or a fake one for the short term while you fiddle with the carb.

I have not heard any evidence that suggests you need anything else at this point. Obviously it can't hurt to get a full carb rebuild kit but it's not necessary from what I'm hearing so far. Some folks following along would say "If you are going to do this.. do it properly!" but I'm trying to get you rolling with the least possible cost and delays waiting for parts. There's a school of thought that might even say.."for the price of a carb rebuild kit you could just buy a complete Chinese replacement carburetor" .... all three of us are right ;-)

Glad to hear that the back fire was not persistent.... so now I can freak you out.... that would have meant that the exhaust valve was not seating properly and would have meant opening up the engine and cleaning off the carbon and re-seating the valves and etc etc etc. Not something you'd want to be doing on day one unless you had no alternative.


----------



## Doylee4693 (Oct 6, 2017)

Well i guess my first step is getting the parts ordered, im wondering if theres a cheap website for this stuff... or should I only order dealer parts.. are there aftermarket parts for blowers including gaskets?


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Doylee4693 said:


> Well i guess my first step is getting the parts ordered, im wondering if theres a cheap website for this stuff... or should I only order dealer parts.. are there aftermarket parts for blowers including gaskets?


Yes there are "kits" to repair an existing carburetor... in fact it is part #60 on that diagram. Some kits have lots of parts, some kits have fewer parts.... the kit you order will depend on the parts you need.
However... I have not seen evidence that you need any parts at all except for that washer #44 and you can't usually buy just that washer... you end up buying a kit that has that washer and other stuff I don't think you need yet... but it's up to you. That's why I make my own with a bit of gasket material that you can pick up from any auto parts store. It's really your choice.

Yes there are MANY sources for these parts and the prices vary a lot. I usually check eBay and Amazon and a few other places like Sears etc. I usually end up going with the cheapest one on eBay.

I can find some links for buying options including the cheap replacement carburetors I mentioned if you wish.. but I really don't see that you need them yet. It's your call.

To help me make certain I'm giving the correct links I need the engine model number and serial number from the top of your engine. If it's a Tecumseh engine those numbers will be etched on the top of the pull-rope cover between the gas cap and the carburetor. If you have an electric starter button those numbers will be snug up to that button or possibly even underneath it... just 2 screws to remove it.

Ha ha... I can't believe how many times I've typed that model number stuff in the past week. I think we need a FAQ somewhere that summarizes these things so we can just point people to the FAQ.... maybe I should see if there is one already.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

I've just realized we are talking about an Ariens on a thread labelled Toro 1028 - that's bad form and can confuse people who search later.
May I suggest you start a new thread with the right title on the Ariens forum or the repair forum and continue over there?
Let's end this thread here... sound like a plan? I'll see you on your new thread.


----------



## unknown1 (Dec 13, 2015)

stuart80112 said:


> I've just realized we are talking about an Ariens on a thread labelled Toro 1028 - that's bad form and can confuse people who search later.
> May I suggest you start a new thread with the right title on the Ariens forum or the repair forum and continue over there?
> Let's end this thread here... sound like a plan? I'll see you on your new thread.


Thanks for the new thread. 
The ariens story continues over here: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/119097-ariens-926le.html


----------

