# 9hp tecumseh question



## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

Hello All,
Earlier this year I picked up a simplicity snow away 9 from a friend for a good deal. He never snowblows his sidewalk because it is all heaved. It needs a carb cleaning because it will only run on full and half choke, but thats not my problem. 

The problem is that there is air blowing out from the "back" of the engine(towards the chute). I dont think its normal, so I figured I would ask you all. 

Also, where can i find auger case grease?

Colsanders


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

Is the air from the exhaust, or something else? If it's something else it might be a blown head gasket and would possibly make a whistling noise.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

For the chute use Fluid Film as spray on as it works very well and as for the blow at the I agree with Slowrider22 less the whistling.

Good Luck


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## bwright1818 (Dec 2, 2014)

Are you sure it's not just the cooling air coming off the block, being created by the flywheel fan? I mean, if a head gasket leaks so bad you can feel the air, it doesn't seem to me like the engine would start....?

As for the gear lube, I bought some off eBay. It was a tube with an MTD label. Holy moly, it was expensive though, at $20!! There must be a cheaper solution....


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

use 00 grease


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## bwright1818 (Dec 2, 2014)

43128 said:


> use 00 grease


 Where do you get it? Napa looks at me like I'm from Mars when I ask for it.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)




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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

bwright1818 said:


> Are you sure it's not just the cooling air coming off the block, being created by the flywheel fan? I mean, if a head gasket leaks so bad you can feel the air, it doesn't seem to me like the engine would start....?
> 
> As for the gear lube, I bought some off eBay. It was a tube with an MTD label. Holy moly, it was expensive though, at $20!! There must be a cheaper solution....


It does seeem like it could be from the flywheel fan. It seems to be coming from the top of the block from around the fins. I was wondering it was normal for the flywheel fan to push so much air.
Thanks!


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

the flywheel fan will push a good amount of air as it is needed to cool the engine.


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

I think the problem is not a problem at all than! Thanks guys!

Also, there is a light on it, and its not working. Are there common problems with the conncections? I really dont want to tear everything apart to fix it if I dont have too.


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## alleyyooper (Sep 12, 2015)

TSC carries the oo grease for a decent price. Probably other local farm supply stores too. For the chute I go to the dollar store and get veggie cooking spray.
:smiley-confused013: You don't need the one with butter, just plain old canola works fine and is still a buck a can.

Bulk Healthy Chef Canola Non-Stick Cooking Spray, 5-oz. Cans at DollarTree.com

I think it is fan air as that is the direction the shroud forces it, shaft end of engine.

 Al


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

Alright, I cleaned the carb, put it back together and am now having problems. When I finally got it to start(took a few minutes to get gas to it), it would run without the choke for about 3 minutes, then backfire out the carb. It seemed to surge a little bit. I am not 100% where the Governor hooks into the throttle plate.


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

anyone?


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

i can't help you with where the governor goes on this engine but if you go to youtube and look up donnyboy videos you will find a bunch on tech engines. as far as the engine stalling after 3 minutes you may have a collapsed or blocked fuel line from the tank. a clogged filter in the tank or some other obstruction in the fuel system. remove the fuel line from the carb and make sure you have good fuel flow. Also make sure the bowl and float on the carb were reinstalled correctly.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

stalling after a few minutes could also be caused by a loss of spark, which would mean a failed coil or bad condensor(depending on engine age)


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

While I agree wholeheartedly with the spark issues to be checked, the OP mentions his trouble started as soon as he finished cleaning the carb.
My first thought with the carb is sometimes one can easily reassemble the float bowl wrong, by that the shallower potion must be lined up perfectly with the pin side of the float. Many have done this part incorrectly on the forum so you many have to remove the carb bowl to verify this item.
Though also one easy check for a good spark is to remove your spark plug connect it and lean it against the plug hole and crank the engine which you should see a blue spark. Doing this in a darkened garage helps to see the spark.

Good Luck


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

I installed a new spark plug around the time I cleaned the carb(last week). The problem more or so is that it backfires out of the carb when it dies. I am going to pull the carb again and make sure everthing is correct.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

colsanders said:


> I installed a new spark plug around the time I cleaned the carb(last week). The problem more or so is that it backfires out of the carb when it dies. I am going to pull the carb again and make sure everthing is correct.


 When you cleaned the carb did you play with the jets setting?
Backfiring through the carb could be a couple things, one your crankcase key could be slightly sheared or you may need to adjust your valves which is verifiable by a compression test.


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

I positioned the jets according to the manual online. I will have to look into the valves as well as look at the flywheel key. Is that something I would need to pull the flywheel off to do?


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

yes you need to pull the flywheel to inspect the key.


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

Also, the carb has a brass emulsion tube, is there any way to replace the orings on that? I hope to get a chance to work on it saturday, and figure some stuff out!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

There are no o-rings on the brass emulsion tube in your carb. Below is a link to the carb you have.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

colsanders said:


> Also, the carb has a brass emulsion tube, is there any way to replace the orings on that? I hope to get a chance to work on it saturday, and figure some stuff out!


Here is a good link on tec carbs and you will see close to bottom of the page the section on emulsion tube. 
http://www.tecumsehcarburetorguide.com/how-to-guide/
Good Luck

I stand corrected Grunt as my experience in the small carbs is limited.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

colsanders said:


> I positioned the jets according to the manual online.


 The settings in the manual are just starting points to get the engine to at least try and run. Once you get the engine running and warmed up, you should adjust each jet for optimal performance and realize that they may need further fine tuning when the temperatures are really cold.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Normex said:


> Here is a good link on tec carbs and you will see close to bottom of the page the section on emulsion tube.
> Tecumseh Carburetor Diagram,Tecumseh Carb Diagram | Tecumseh Carburetor Guide
> Good Luck


 Thank you for the excellent Tecumseh carb tutorial Norm, I didn't have this one in my library. I haven't touched a brass emulsion tube carb in a long time and kind of remember that there is some kind of rod in the tube that should make a rattling sound if the carb is shaken.???


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

colsanders said:


> It does seeem like it could be from the flywheel fan. It seems to be coming from the top of the block from around the fins. I was wondering it was normal for the flywheel fan to push so much air.
> Thanks!


See if you can find pictures of that engine from different angles. Might be a part of the shroud is missing from the engine, and the air stream is escaping before it has done its cooling job. 

I have been wondering if it's possible to redesign shrouds to blow warm air at the guy behind the controls. :icon_whistling:


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

???


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Part – 1





Part – 2


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

Alright guys, after getting busy with work and other things, I finally got back to looking at the blower. I borrowed a compression tester, and it read 30 lbs. So I am assuming that either the headgasket is blown, or the valves are out of adjustment. I pulled the exhaust, as well as the intake/carb off to reveal the box where the valves are. I opened that up, It seems as though the valves can't be reached? There was a "basket" with some mesh, and behind that, looked like a pull tab off a sardine can. There was a think sheet of something, I carefully pulled it back, but I could only see the valve spring.

Any ideas before I tear the head off?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

That sardine can is the breather assembly  make sure that when u reassemble, the little drain hole is facing down.

The springs hold the valve stems in place. What you're checking for is the clearance between the lifter and the bottom of the valve stem using a feeler gauge.


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

How does that sardine can come out? It seems like the "can" part of it it is casted into the block.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

remove the two bolts and pry it out with a flathead screwdriver


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

Now I have some more serious problems. I did a compression test on the motor, and found it had 30 lbs of pressure. I took the head off today, cleaned off the block, the head, and started putting it back together. I bought a Harbor Freight torque wrench to torque the studs down. First 2 went alright, and snapped the next 3. 

So, I am wondering what my options are. Do i drill the bolts out and get new ones? Give up on it and find a different motor? Any opinins?


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

i would try my best to get the broken bolts out....unless you need a working blower in a hurry. if its not a dual shaft engine, a repower may be in order, and fix the tech when you have time. jmo


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

Should I have bought new head bolts for it, instead of trying to resue the old one?


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

typically no....but need to ask, did you mistake ft/lbs for inch/lbs ?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

nwcove...you read my mind. Most head bolts snap when they're being removed...not inserted.

When you get things sorted, you should retorque the head bolts after a few heating/cooling cycles.


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

nwcove said:


> typically no....but need to ask, did you mistake ft/lbs for inch/lbs ?


I unfortunately did. I had a ft/lb number in my head, looked the spec up after i broke the 3 bolts, and realized i had torqued them twice the amount! Luckily I have a dead motor I can steal the bolts from tommorow.


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

Alright, I replaced the headgasket, adjusted the exhaust valve(it had no clearance). Went to fire it up, and it only ran on full choke. It also surged at idle. I took the carb off, cleaned it out and am going to put it back on this afternoon. Hopefully I can get it to run, otherwise im not sure what i'm going to do.


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

Went to put the carb back on, and ended up with the same condition. Would only run on full choke, and it would surge and backfire some. Any ideas? The valves are within tolerance, the headgasket is new, and torqued correctly, and the carb is recently cleaned(last night). Any ideas?


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

sounds like its running lean, clean the carb again, and be thorough. jmo


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## colsanders (Nov 30, 2012)

I purchased a non adjustale carb, and it arrived yesterday. It now runs without the choke, but still seems to hunt a little bit. I know its not perfect, but I am very happy its running.


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