# After 6 months, FINALLY got to test my 1973 Ariens. Some Qs for the pros.



## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Hi all, 

Last July I bought a non-running 910019 machine (1973, 6hp, 24" bucket) and got her to fire up after a carb and points replacement and some other minor things. I had to wait until the recent east coast blizzard to finally test this thing - what a way to "break" it in! 30+ inches for a first run. 

I have to say, I am thoroughly impressed with how tough these old machines are. I might be an Ariens guy for a long time now. I just bought a house in the same neighborhood I currently live in, so I actually had 2 properties to clear, both with long driveways. After a bit of a learning process on my part, I got both properties clear. 

Here are my impressions, along with some followup questions in boldface for the pros here:

- Everything I read about these machines liking lots of snow is true. My throw was best when it was being constantly fed. 

- I have the stock turf tires and the automotive style differential with the lockout switch. For heavy passes, I locked the differential and was able to get everything done. I can recognize where chains or snow hogs would have been helpful, but the locking differential gives it enormous traction as is. 

- At first, I was disappointed in the throw. I was barely clearing 2-3 feet, with the chute on the right yielding the best results. Then I saw how quickly things were getting clogged up, as my chute is rusty and inside bucket/augers/etc. are scratched. Things improved nicely with some silicone spray, but only for a half hour or so. Pam spray seemed to work the best. I also had a full throttle issue (see below) that I recognized toward the end and increased my throwing distance. Still, I topped out at about 5-6 feet. Perhaps an impeller kit is in order. 

*Is this normal? I was under the impression that fluffy snow at 25-30 degrees should yield a 10-15ft throw with the old sno throws. Any obvious things I should check?* Shear pins are brand new and belt tension was fine. 

- Toward the end of the day I noticed that the engine wouldn't stay on full throttle. I have the remote throttle on the left handlebar and every time I would push it up it would surge, then return to "almost full throttle". *Is there any fix for this? Governor adjustment?*. Even holding the throttle up I could barely clear 6 feet. 

- I snapped my brand new belt within 3 hours of use and had to go back to the ancient cracked loud belt that was there when I bought the machine. The new belt wasn't slipping even with the idler in its loosest position, although I did tighten it a little bit when I first saw I wasn't getting a long throw. I saw belt shavings around the cover. This was an ebay replacement and not an OEM Ariens Belt. I assume this is the reason for the problem? It was one of these: Rotary V Belt Fits Ariens Snow Blowers 72157 72131 72047 3 8"x36" 5019 RT | eBay

*For those with experience with this belt (Ariens p/n 72047 and 72072), what's the best replacement? Does Napa have one of their green belts in the proper size? I assume I want Kevlar?*

Also, the idler pulley seems to have been ground on the back end, but I couldn't figure out why. Thoughts? Here's a pic:


- Under load, the tecumseh sweated oil a little bit. *What's the most common area for this to originate from?* I have some nice flagstone and would hate oil to get on it when the snow melts. The gasket around the dipstick cover is partially broken. Is it possible for it to come from there?


Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise. I have a feeling that this thing will be a beast with a few tweaks here and there.


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Impeller kit will make it a new machine. I've found the best way to deal with the leaky, stinking engine that won't consistenly run right is to replace it with 100$ harbor freight 212cc. 
If it were me I'd do impeller kit now, then wait till spring for new engine. See what other bearings or bushing need replacing. These are incredible machines, I never owned a blower newer then the 80s but these do a great job with little modifications. I replaced my belt with one off amazon. Oregon was the brand. 
Carlisle x trac tires to replace the turf tires, the chains will scratch asphalt and paving stones.
It's helpful if u list ur local as well. Perhaps someone local would want your old engine, just to look at in disgust!


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

I've considered the predator swap, but I'm still on the fence about it. Objectively, it makes sense. Stylishly, it feels like putting vinyl siding over old-growth clapboard wood. 

My Tecumseh runs extremely well, actually. I would just like to track down where this oil spits out from under load. 

Maybe I'll go with the impeller kit ASAP. 

Are the oregon brand belts as resilient as the OEM Ariens ones? 

I think a tire change is in order in the future. I already upgraded my steel skids to poly ones in order to protect my flagstone. I definitely wouldn't want chains scratching it up. 

Eastern PA is my location. Not quite the snow belt, but we get dumped on every so often.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Which would be a better replacement belt? The Oregon clone of the OEM belt, or the ribbed belt made with Kevlar? Amazon sells the ribbed one:

Amazon.com: Ariens Snow Thrower Replacement Belt, Part # 72047, 07204700. Made With Kevlar.: Patio, Lawn & Garden


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

I have a Tecumseh 10HP on my old Bolen that had an oil leak for years. This fall I had to do some urgent repairs so while at it, I looked for the oil leak. Mine was the cover for the oil breather lacked a gasket! The cover (from memory) is about 2" by 6". I removed it because I first thought that the filter needed cleaning but it did not.

I think I have seen gaskets for sale on EBay but I made my own with a tube of black silicon gasket stuff. Just opened the tube and ran a bead of caca around the cover's edge and resecured it. Note there two gaskets or at least should be. Mine did have a gasket between the screen and the vent plate but none between the engine and the cover.

OH--- the breather is behind the carburetor and you have to remove the metal cover that protects the carburetor to get access to it. There are only 3-4 bolts holding it on.


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

Stang said:


> Which would be a better replacement belt? The Oregon clone of the OEM belt, or the ribbed belt made with Kevlar? Amazon sells the ribbed one:
> 
> Amazon.com: Ariens Snow Thrower Replacement Belt, Part # 72047, 07204700. Made With Kevlar.: Patio, Lawn & Garden


Stang-- if you are chewing through belts AND not throwing snow very far, it might not be a belt problem and you should check to see if something is binding. Could be a bearing or maybe the impeller dragging on metal. Also somebody displayed a picture of a cracked weld on the augur housing and the crack was causing some type of binding. I think I may have seen the picture here in the forum or on Utube.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I use the green Gates Power Rated belts, 6836 I believe is the number, Ill have to go down to my rear garage to check.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I usually go with the gates too, get them at an Oreilly auto parts that's close.

Example: Gates PoweRated 6836 - FHP V-Belt | O'Reilly Auto Parts

It's a lawn and garden belt, not automotive.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Thanks for the great ideas. I will check the breather and see if oil is dripping from there. I also ordered a new dipstick gasket for a few bucks. Any other common spots I should be checking?

I hadn't considered the gates belt - thanks for the tip! I don't have an O'Reilley's anywhere near me, though. I just ordered the Oregon belt off Amazon. 

As far as I can tell, nothing appears to be binding. No cracked welds or metal-to-metal contact anywhere. 

What's the best way to check the bushings?


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## G_P (May 14, 2015)

The oil is likely coming from the breather on the side of the motor, or is leaking past a failed oil seal on the auger gearbox. The gearbox seals are cheap and simple to replace but the rear seal requires removal of the impeller from the shaft and that will almost certainly require a hydraulic press as it will be rusted on.

I have a similar unit and in this last storm it was throwing snow 20+ feet with ease. I had to angle the chute down in a few places to keep from throwing the snow onto my neighbors cars. I had media blasted the chute on mine and wire wheeled the inside of the bucket prior to repainting it so the smooth surface probably helped the throwing distance a lot.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

A New Impeller bearing will make a difference. I'd also go with a new engine for trouble free operation. Tall chute and impeller seal mods are great. Once You get the machine set up right, You'll love it.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I had trouble with a more recent Tecumseh OHV engine sweating oil, which would begin a few minutes after starting the engine. 

I checked a whole bunch of things, which were not the problem :redface: 

I checked the cylinder bore dimensions, replaced the head gasket, replaced the dipstick gasket, etc. It finally turned out to be something stupid with my crankcase breather valve. 

Make sure that your crankcase breather valve is working correctly. And is connected correctly. You can check the breather valve. If you remove it, you should be able to easily blow through it, blowing from the engine-side of the valve. And you should not be able to suck air through it, if sucking on the engine-side of the valve. My valve checked OK, and I even replaced it, no change. 

But there's a rubber tube coming off my breather valve cover. It finally turned out that the previous owner connected this tube to the carb, rather than leaving it hanging, just pointing toward the ground, the way it should be. So each time I reassembled things, I dutifully connected the rubber tube to this "port" on the carb. It seemed a bit weird, but I didn't question it enough. Finally I checked, and found that this "port" on the carb body wasn't drilled through. 

I had assumed this port let the engine suck any oil drips back into the intake, vs onto the ground. Instead, connecting the rubber tube to a plugged port meant that I was defeating the crankcase breather valve, since it could not blow air out of the rubber tube, since I'd essentially plugged the end of the tube. So the valve couldn't do its job of maintaining vacuum in the crankcase. Instead, the crankcase pressurized, and oil weeped out. 

I aimed the rubber valve cover tube towards the ground again, and the engine was fine :blush: 

So check the breather valve seals, maybe check the valve itself, and (assuming it's like my Tecumseh's) make sure that the valve cover's rubber tube is open, and that you can blow through it. 

The "smoking gun" was when I made a water manometer to measure crankcase vacuum, and it showed pressure instead. Finally, things came together for me. Something dumb and simple caused me a lot of grief. So don't just assume that the previous owner left everything hooked up properly, especially if it wasn't running when you bought it.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Stang said:


> I've considered the predator swap, but I'm still on the fence about it. Objectively, it makes sense. Stylishly, it feels like putting vinyl siding over old-growth clapboard wood.
> 
> My Tecumseh runs extremely well, actually. I would just like to track down where this oil spits out from under load.
> 
> ...


Look for a belt that states that is made with Kevlar. Pix belts come from India


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