# Sno-Tek 24E Oil Drain Plug Stuck



## Upstater88 (Dec 26, 2016)

Hi All,

First time poster here - I bought a new Sno-Tek 24E 208CC at the end of last season. The snow came a little earlier than expected this year before I got a chance to change the oil for the first time. Well tonight I went out to change it and couldn't get the drain plug to budge. I even had the body supported and still wouldn't move. Unfortunately with all the force I put on the plug (and I am guessing chintzy plug) it is beginning to strip. I was wondering if anyone experienced these being incredibly torqued from the factory or if anyone has any tips to loosen this?

Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Upstater88 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> First time poster here - I bought a new Sno-Tek 24E 208CC at the end of last season. The snow came a little earlier than expected this year before I got a chance to change the oil for the first time. Well tonight I went out to change it and couldn't get the drain plug to budge. I even had the body supported and still wouldn't move. Unfortunately with all the force I put on the plug (and I am guessing chintzy plug) it is beginning to strip. I was wondering if anyone experienced these being incredibly torqued from the factory or if anyone has any tips to loosen this?
> 
> Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!


you are going to have to heat it up with a propane torch. they used Loctite on the threads.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

found this on the web:
_*This Hex tube has a bolt screwed into it. Hold the Hex tube with a 14mm wrench (or adjustable wrench), then take a 10mm wrench (or socket and ratcheting wrench) and loosen that bolt from the Hex tube. (This is standard right hand threads.) Once loose, then you should be able to remove the bolt by hand.*_
That 10mm bolt which is the actual drain plug is as you say starting to round out. You need to hold back with the 14mm on the hex tube and only turn the 10 mm. Now the 10 mm should be a quality 6 point socket and I recommend you tap it all the way on as far as it can go so you get a good fit since you probably have changed the geometry of the bolt hex shape. It would be wise to get a new bolt and not replace it with the damaged one.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

It never hurts to put a little PB blaster on and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Since your machine is rather new, the problem is likely more mechanical than rust, but again, it doesn't hurt.

If you find you have rounded off the bolt too much to use the appropriate socket, you will probably need to go to a bolt extractor socket. These run about $25 from Harbor freight for a set of 9. Just make sure that the size you need is in the set you get. This is an item I would prefer to buy one at a time on a per need basis but the single sockets can cost $15-$30 each. I guess they figure you will pay just about anything to get that bolt out.

...not a bad thing to have in your box anyway.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Upstater88 (Dec 26, 2016)

Thanks guys, I will deff give these a try tonight


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## borealjeff (Nov 3, 2018)

yep, Just tried this. I had to heat with a torch. Bolt not quiet rounded off yet.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

borealjeff said:


> yep, Just tried this. I had to heat with a torch. Bolt not quiet rounded off yet.



I think it is time to switch to vice grips.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I have a Sno Tek. Just cha ged oil in it last week or so. Yep. That bugger was tight. I used a wrench to hold the extension and a socket on the plug. It came ojt but it wasn't at all happy about it. They are i stalled with Loctite® .


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