# School me on repainting my snowblower



## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Hi all, 

I recently purchased a late 70’s Ariens snowblower that I’ve decided will be my long term machine, so stripping it down and repainting it is now part of my plans. I’ve been trying to do as much research as I can around here (thanks HCBPH for your great posts), as I’m a newbie to painting (but I am very handy and pick up things quickly). 

Here are my tentative plans based on what I read, and my budget and tools. Feel free to fill in any blanks and correct anything you think I should know about:


- For decal removal, I can’t seem to get any of them off without destroying them, so I’ll be using reproductions. I bought one of the rubber eraser attachments for my drill and will use them to take them off (unless abrasive blasting works better). 

- For stripping, I plan to buy the 40lb harbor freight abrasive blaster. My compressor is a 22gal 1.5hp Sanborn unit, so I am prepared to have to take my time. I will use coal slag abrasive (the black diamond “medium blasting abrasives” bag at tractor supply co.). I will try to build an open bucket* with the opening angled toward you out of PVC and line it in tarp, just big enough to fit the bucket (biggest piece I will be blasting). I will blast outside and surround the area with a bigger tarp, using thick gloves, a 3m P100 respirator, and proper headgear. 

- After stripping, I’ll wipe the pieces down with some Evaporust. 

- I’m leaning away from using spray cans and more toward learning how to spray with a gun. I plan to build a portable spray booth for my 2-car garage out of PVC, clear plastic, 2 furnace filters, and a box fan. It’ll be about 8 feet wide and 4 feet deep and tall enough to stand in. 

- I have access to my grandfather’s old spray painting gear. I recall it being high quality commercial equipment (Binks). I don’t know how old it is, but it certainly pre-dates the HVLP equipment. Would it be better to use the old Binks equipment, or grab a cheap, but HVLP, harbor freight gun. Also, with the bucket being the largest piece, is using only a detail gun sufficient? Basically, I have no idea what size guns and nozzles I should be using. 

- I understand I want a high quality rust suppressing primer. What’s the favorite of the snowblower restorers around here? I also understand chevy orange is a close match to ariens orange. Short of paying super high $$$ on POR-15, what’s the darling brand to use? How many coats?

- What kind of clear coat/how many coats?

- I also plan to repaint the white parts, as well as appropriate parts of the original tecumseh engine. What shade of white is a good match? Are there any different paint type considerations than I would have with the bucket parts?

- I bought a new replacement Ariens cast iron gear case for longevity, since there was some pitting on my worm shaft and I would have to put some money into it anyway. This is a great unit, but it comes painted black. I’d love to paint it the same Ariens orange while I’m at it so it looks original. Does this need to be stripped, or can I sand it a little and give it a few coats of orange over the black? Should this be sprayed, or brushed?

- Most of the bolts, nuts, pulleys, flanges, etc. are being restored with evaporust, but a few parts will need paint. What’s a good “metal colored” silver that people use for restorations? For example, the thick metal linkages on this machine will likely look better with some paint rather than stripping it down to bare metal. 


That’s all I can think of as I form my plans. I appreciate any advice to help me move forward with this. 


Thanks!




* This assumes I cannot find anything “slicker” to make a blast cabinet out of. I love the idea outlined in this thread: 

Affordable Home Made Media Blast Cabinet - Modular Fords

but I cannot seem to find where to buy a bin like that.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I found a bunch of tips in the stickies of this page at the sister site "My Tractor Forum".
Mechanical, Paint & Restorations - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Best way to remove stickers in one piece is by heating the area up a little with a heat gun, then use a razor blade on one corner and lift it slowly (I have not tried re gluing them yet, so I do not know if I will be able to reuse them, but they came off in one piece and they are placed in between two pieces of wax paper on a folder for storage). :blush:


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## ctdave (Sep 11, 2015)

what I did
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/69345-rebuild-comming-along-pics.html

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/76177-pics-restore-rebuild-done.html

the por was expensive, and I found it hard to paint with a sprayer and thinned to its max. i don't think I would do it again. with that being said, the por paint is much harder and durable than regular spray paint. the chevy orange is an almost perfect match to the original. the white used is a match . I forgot the color used, its a spray can I got at ace hardware, but it is in one of my posts.
the white is dover white


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Glad something I've posted has helped someone.

As far as paint goes, I like either Rusoleum or Farm Equipment paint in the proper color (Like A.C. Orange or Farmall Red, etc). Most equipment is designed to sit outside so they need a good grade of paint on them.

As far as primer goes, look for something that does "Rust Encapsulation". Eastwood has some good stuff here.

When I was looking for my abrasive blasting setup, happens that Eastwood had theirs on sale with free shipping, too good a deal to pass up.
The cinder abrasive can be rerun through the unit at least 3 or 4 times. You do want to have a good screen to run it though first to remove any old paint, rust etc that came off. You will want to work with the tip size and flow rate to get it going correctly. IIRC I used one of the 2 largest tips that came with the unit and used the flow valve to regulate the abrasive flow rate. If you didn't, it would easily plug up.

I made up a plastic pipe 'blasting cabinet' to help confine the abrasive as I cleaned up the parts, it definitely is worth the effort. I also strung out a bigger tarp around it, again it definitely helps confine the abrasive.

Couple of things I found: definitely get yourself a good respirator that handles solid particles. Dump the face shield that comes with the blaster and get yourself a full face shield, you'll enjoy it alot better. Another is if your going to HF, check their elbow length welding gloves. They work well and off you alot of protection.

By the way, overall Binks is good gear. If it works properly, you should be happy with the results.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

ctdave said:


> what I did
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/69345-rebuild-comming-along-pics.html
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/76177-pics-restore-rebuild-done.html
> ...


* That POR-15 stuff is suppose to be brushed or rollered on the subject at hand.k:k:k:k:k:*


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

dbert said:


> I found a bunch of tips in the stickies of this page at the sister site "My Tractor Forum".
> Mechanical, Paint & Restorations - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information


Thanks for the tip. I started reading those stickies, though admittedly they're tough to follow. 



hsblowersfan said:


> Best way to remove stickers in one piece is by heating the area up a little with a heat gun, then use a razor blade on one corner and lift it slowly (I have not tried re gluing them yet, so I do not know if I will be able to reuse them, but they came off in one piece and they are placed in between two pieces of wax paper on a folder for storage). :blush:


I started to do that with one of the decals and the corner ripped off. Any recommended temperature to use? My gun will do 200-1000 degrees. 



ctdave said:


> what I did
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/69345-rebuild-comming-along-pics.html
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/76177-pics-restore-rebuild-done.html
> ...


Really cool pics and a great restoration. If you had to do it again, what paint would you use? 



HCBPH said:


> Glad something I've posted has helped someone.
> 
> As far as paint goes, I like either Rusoleum or Farm Equipment paint in the proper color (Like A.C. Orange or Farmall Red, etc). Most equipment is designed to sit outside so they need a good grade of paint on them.
> 
> ...



Am I right in assuming that the only other "Chevy orange" is a rustoleum spray can? I haven't found anything else in chevy orange that you would use with a spray gun. 

I'll look into rust encapsulating primers. Anything comparable to the Eastwood stuff that's available locally (blue and orange, tractor supply, etc.)?

Thanks for the blasting tips. I actually love the picture of your PVC/tarp cabinet that I found on these forums. If I were to build a similar one, what size would be appropriate to accommodate the 24" bucket? How much extra buffer room would I need in the "cabinet"?

I have a 3m cartridge respirator with P100 filters. Is that not appropriate for abrasive blasting and/or paint? I'll see if I can get a full face mask and welding gloves from my grandpa's garage. Thanks for the confidence in the old binks guns. I'll have to see what model it is and if everything still works.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Stang said:


> I started to do that with one of the decals and the corner ripped off. Any recommended temperature to use? My gun will do 200-1000 degrees.


 I did not check the temperature when I did it but it has to be pretty warm, but not enough to melt the decal (I removed between 15 and 20 decals successfully :blush.
When you lift the corner it should peel off without too much resistance. If too much resistance is felt it is not warm enough, but now you don't want to heat the already peeled decal as it will likely shrink (or burn), start to heat it at another corner where it is still attached to the surface.
Ideally you want to heat the whole decal area before removing it, so that you can do it in one shot. :blush:

The decal has to be sound to come of in one piece. :blush:


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## ctdave (Sep 11, 2015)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * That POR-15 stuff is suppose to be brushed or rollered on the subject at hand.k:k:k:k:k:*


according to their own info, the por-15 chevy orange engine enamel can be sprayed on, but thinned to no more than 20%.... I think I may have got an out of date can from the paint store. even thinned at the 20% it was drying to fast, making it hard to even brush. it only has a 2 year shelf life. I tossed the can before I thought to check it. it is a very tough paint though., even hard to scratch it.


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## ctdave (Sep 11, 2015)

Stang said:


> Thanks for the tip. I started reading those stickies, though admittedly they're tough to follow.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


the rustoleum c.o. engine enamel comes in quarts to use in a spray gun. (if that's what you mean) I will probably use that when I do my other machine. not sure if I will try the por engine enamel again.(although it is a very tough paint).. I would without a doubt use an etch on the bare metal again before several coats of prime. then several coats of c.o. rustoleum engine enamel. then several coats of a enamel clear coat protectant.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

hsblowersfan said:


> I did not check the temperature when I did it but it has to be pretty warm, but not enough to melt the decal (I removed between 15 and 20 decals successfully :blush.
> When you lift the corner it should peel off without too much resistance. If too much resistance is felt it is not warm enough, but now you don't want to heat the already peeled decal as it will likely shrink (or burn), start to heat it at another corner where it is still attached to the surface.
> Ideally you want to heat the whole decal area before removing it, so that you can do it in one shot. :blush:
> 
> The decal has to be sound to come of in one piece. :blush:


Today I successfully removed the serial# sticker from my blower housing by upping the heat, then pushing through with a plastic razor. Worked very well - I will be able to save this one. 




ctdave said:


> the rustoleum c.o. engine enamel comes in quarts to use in a spray gun. (if that's what you mean) I will probably use that when I do my other machine. not sure if I will try the por engine enamel again.(although it is a very tough paint).. I would without a doubt use an etch on the bare metal again before several coats of prime. then several coats of c.o. rustoleum engine enamel. then several coats of a enamel clear coat protectant.



Interesting. Do you know who sells the 1qt rustoleum engine enamel in chevy orange? I haven't been able to find it anywhere. Even online.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4431...3390324&sr=8-1&keywords=valspar+tractor+paint

https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625...3390324&sr=8-2&keywords=valspar+tractor+paint

https://www.amazon.com/3M-07193-Pai...&qid=1473390402&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+respirator

Simply love, love, love, love the paint WITH the hardener and thinned. In fact I will be painting my Corvette with it prior to selling. Use at least a true respirator. I am saving up for the supplied air pump. Already bought the mask.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

POR-15 is designed to paint over rusty steel. I have used it on non rusted areas and it eventually peels off. Great adhesion on the rusty areas.


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## ctdave (Sep 11, 2015)

Stang said:


> Today I successfully removed the serial# sticker from my blower housing by upping the heat, then pushing through with a plastic razor. Worked very well - I will be able to save this one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I stand corrected. I found it last summer in a quart. cant find anything but the spray can now. last summer I had a hard time getting a spray can because everyone was out. there are other brands of chevy orange engine enamel in quarts. this is one.
ENGINE ENAMEL-hirschauto.com


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Just a FYI - just got an email that Eastwood is having a 40% off on it's abrasive blasting equipment: Blaster Showcase - Hot Deals

Doesn't say how long it runs though. I have the 100 lb unit and it works well for me.

Just passing info along.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

E350 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4431...3390324&sr=8-1&keywords=valspar+tractor+paint
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625...3390324&sr=8-2&keywords=valspar+tractor+paint
> 
> ...


I hadn't considered the Valspar paint. Looks like the closest I can do here is AC orange. I haven't seen AC orange next to Chevy orange next to Ariens orange to know which is a better match. 



ctdave said:


> I stand corrected. I found it last summer in a quart. cant find anything but the spray can now. last summer I had a hard time getting a spray can because everyone was out. there are other brands of chevy orange engine enamel in quarts. this is one.
> ENGINE ENAMEL-hirschauto.com


Hmm interesting. $40 per quart, though. Ouch. 



HCBPH said:


> Just a FYI - just got an email that Eastwood is having a 40% off on it's abrasive blasting equipment: Blaster Showcase - Hot Deals
> 
> Doesn't say how long it runs though. I have the 100 lb unit and it works well for me.
> 
> Just passing info along.


Hmm most of the units are coming up at about 15% off. Is it a targeted offer?


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

Curing time before it sees use and fuel spills if a big advantage. Get it done ASAP.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Stang said:


> Hmm most of the units are coming up at about 15% off. Is it a targeted offer?


 Don't know, it was in an email I got from Eastwood. I think it's over now but unsure.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Don't forget the hardener...makes it bombproof!


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Anyone have a sense of which more closely matches ariens orange? AC orange or Chevy orange? It looks like the Valspar is my only reasonably-priced choice, but it's AC orange.


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## ctdave (Sep 11, 2015)

Stang said:


> Anyone have a sense of which more closely matches ariens orange? AC orange or Chevy orange? It looks like the Valspar is my only reasonably-priced choice, but it's AC orange.


cant say about the ac orange, but the c o was an almost perfect match to the original on my 10000 series ariens. with dover white being a match for the "white" of the rims


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

_*Stang*_,

Look into our member GAR projects and posts, you'll find a some answers and information, plus his restorations are AMAZING to say the least.....!


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

Thanks HS for the suggestion - I'll look into his projects. 

I've been busy lately but finally got back into my garage today to free up my rust-welded differential lockout pin. I also took the opportunity to compare the paint on my 79 Ariens to my 73 and I was surprised to see two very different shades of orange. 

Now I'm wondering if this is why the AC orange vs Chevy orange debate exists. I bet one type matches with later machines, I just wonder which one it is.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

I observed the same thing on Gilsons over the years, the colors varied. Best bets are internal surfaces that have not see the sun and elements or if something like a hand grip will slide off. Remove any surface oxidation with polishing compound and guess from there. I too have seen it vary between numerous engine oranges.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

I think I'm gonna try the Valspar AC orange. I've read some great things about it, and E350's raves are convincing. I'll be spraying with an old Binks Model 7, so I imagine I'll need to thin it out nicely. Any suggestions for ratios?

I have to select a primer and noticed Valspar also has one in their tractor & implement line. Would this be appropriate in grey?

https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-018-4620Q-Tractor-Implement-Primer/dp/B00A92B6QQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Is grey a good color for primer? Keep in mind that I'll also be painting the white areas of the blower, as well as the original Tecumseh engine the same white. 


Here's my tentative shopping list so far (Thanks E350 for getting me started):

1 quart Valspar Tractor & Implement AC orange 

8 oz Valspar Hardener

Respirator

1 quart of primer, type depending on advice given here. 

1 quart of dover white paint


Any suggestions on what type of dover white to go with? The handlebars and name plate area don't take any abuse, but the engine will be getting the same paint and will see high heat and oil/fuel spills. 

Also, what should I use to cover the linkages? Any type of grey paint appropriate for this? Some of these pieces (like the chute crank) were plated from the factory and are now badly peeled. How about the black of the shift knobs? 

I'm almost ready to really dive into this.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

I should also add: Do people usually clear coat a job like this? If so, is there any clear coat compatible with the Valspar tractor and implement paint?

Also a followup to my inquiry about the Valspar primer: what's the difference between the grey and the red oxide? 

There is so much information to digest. Any help getting my shopping list together is appreciated. I'd like to spray by mid october to give the blower some curing time.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Stang said:


> I should also add: Do people usually clear coat a job like this? If so, is there any clear coat compatible with the Valspar tractor and implement paint?
> 
> Also a followup to my inquiry about the Valspar primer: what's the difference between the grey and the red oxide?
> 
> There is so much information to digest. Any help getting my shopping list together is appreciated. I'd like to spray by mid october to give the blower some curing time.



I don't try to clearcoat, it just gets chewed up. Though try it if you like, maybe you'll have better results.


As far as the color of primer, I think a lot depends on the final color going over it. For example, there is black primer. Try painting something white and it will take a lot more coats to get it covered vs something like gray. I think in the past red oxide contained lead or something that was supposed to help contain rust but pretty sure that's long gone.


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

It sounds like grey primer would be fine for both orange and white paint. 

Can anyone recommend a brand of dover white to use?


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## Stang (Mar 28, 2015)

If I may also add:

I ordered the valspar primer and AC orange paint. It'll take some time to get here, but I may have some time soon to blast the parts. Is there anything I can do to cheaply prevent the newly bare metal parts from rusting before I'm ready to paint?


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

You can always prime it ahead of time.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Red oxide is for rusty metal. I like it a lot. I think it may be a little thicker than the gray primer and it may bond better (skick-ier IMO). I am still gathering together my spray equipment, so I have only brushed and rolled it on so far (painted an entire jet ski trailer). I really like it with the hardener. It is amazing to me. If you thin it too much, it is almost transparent, but dries hard as a rock. Very interesting. The ratios are on the can both for rolling/rushing and for spraying. For rolling/brushing the thinner is mineral spirits, for spraying it is something different. I don't have the can handy, it may be acetone. Let us know how it sprays, your particular best ratios, and the tip and pressure you use. And post lots of pictures!


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