# Friction plate Always spinning.



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Hi all. I have an awesome (albeit older) Husqy 10-30E snowblower and after finally getting a 'new' friction wheel (a Yamaha part!!!) I thought I was all set to welcome Winter and snowblow with ease. However, as soon as I move the shifter from neutral and drop it into whichever gear I choose - it engages the wheels. When I squeeze the "drive" lever with my left hand, it's further engaged (drives stronger), which ...obviously makes sense. 

I removed the belly pan and sure enough, as soon as I start the machine - with the gear/drive selector in the Neutral slot, that friction plate spins. Fast. Removing the plastic belt cover, and sure enough, the drive belt is engaged and spinning with the turn of the engine.

The idler pulley is as far out of the way as it can be, touching the metal frame of the machine. Could I have the wrong belt in there that is just a little too tight? I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. Obviously that moves the friction plate (or "disc") up and down. But the fact that it is spinning as soon as the mower starts is not right, I assume. (Because you'd wear a flat spot on your friction wheel by just putting it into, say, 2nd gear or reverse --- without actuating the drive level with your left hand --- and the friction wheel is now being driven by the friction plate/disc ...

Am I missing something? Any suggestions? Again, thinking that I must have the wrong Drive belt in there....??

Thank you in advance.

Jay


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## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


----------



## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I'll second BullFrog's suggestion, but with maybe a slightly -longer- belt so it releases when the drive handle is relaxed. The diameters of the two friction wheels may be slightly different, and as he mentions there's the belt width to consider too. Regardless, the belt you need will be loose enough with drive handle released to not drive belt to the friction wheel. 

In a perfect-drive world, the belt will be wide enough to let the belt sit at or just shy of the OD of the V-groove in the pulleys. The belt drives from the sides of the V near the top. The actual drive-release and engage happens at the engine pulley end just because of the smaller diameter and smaller friction area, so the width is probably best determined there if the groove widths are different.

I'll also warn that while it's tempting to play with length on FHP (fractional horsepower) belts at the hardware store, you are really looking for a stronger Kevlar/Aramid or better belt to handle the snow throwing loads.

Advice retracted...  

I was foolishly thinking of the auger drive mechanism. As others state, the friction wheel always turns with the engine, and engage/disengage is handled by the drive wheel contact with the friction wheel face. Lengthen the pull linkage or cable to allow the tire on that drive wheel to to move away from the friction face completely. 

sorry...


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## LenD (Nov 17, 2020)

And don't use an automotive drive belt; use one that is rated for snowblower, power equipment, etc (ie power-rated belt). Car belts won't take the abuse.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I don't know about Husky snowblowers, but every 2 stage I have worked on the traction pulley is always spinning with the engine. The traction pulley idler is set to remove any slop in the belt, but not too tight as to tension the belt. The handle lever then drops the friction disc onto the moving friction plate (often the pulley), thus engaging the wheels. There is an adjustment for the handle lever linkage such that the friction disc is just above the always spinning plate, and comes into contact when the lever is actuated.

thanks


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many styles have the drive plate swing, i.e pull into, the fixed friction drive wheel, which is already in its selected gear.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

BullFrog said:


> From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


Thank you. How would I loosen the belt? And I would think - to loosen the "belt" - that I wouldn't want to try a slightly shorter belt, but, a slightly longer one, right?

One other challenge here is that, every website I look to for parts diagrams on this machine (model number 954201031d ) say that there are no longer parts diagrams available. So i can't confidently confirm the correct part number for the correct belt. Any chance that someone out there knows what the part number is for the correct drive belt?

Thanks all!!!

Jay


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

I found the following belt and ordered it - hopefully it fits/works: *Husqvarna 531002591*


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I'm still at a loss why you are looking at the belt. As I mentioned, on all machines I have worked on, if the traction is always engaged, it is a linkage problem, not a drive belt problem. You stated "
I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. " I think this is where the problem lies.

thanks.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral? 

The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear". 

With that friction plate spinning so fast ---- WITHOUT THE LEFT HAND DRIVE LEVER SQUEEZED --- the moment the shift selector is taken out of Neutral and moved to a 'gear', say 2nd gear, and I allow the selector to pop into that gear slot, the friction plate RAISES UP and engages the friction wheel and shes off to the races. I don't even have to squeeze the lefthand lever.

And if I were to adjust the the linkage, all that would do is move the friction plate away from the wheel (or adjusted in the other direction, closer to it ...and it's already TOO close). How can it be that the wheel is supposed to come into contact with the friction disc/plate WHILE IT'S SPINNING and the drive lever not squeezed??? It would wear a flat spot on the friction wheel's rubber.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

JJG723 said:


> The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.

I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.

(sorry, just very confused)


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lol .... I got confused just reading and trying to decipher your interpretation of what is going on .... I

In my travels, I have come across many different friction wheel drive setups ....... Although they may be different in there operations, they are all pretty straight forward ..... Most can be easily adjusted, and some a little harder .... They all work in rhythm with springs, bushings, bearings, cable, rods, shafts, etc., Etc. ....... As well as the rubber wearing out or getting chewed up .... Levers bend, springs break or stretch , and on and on .....

Sometimes one has to look at what a machine condition is and how or how not it is performing by doing a hands on inspection and some detective work.

Maybe its a long day and I'm ready for bed ..... Lol


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

jaytpilk said:


> Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.
> 
> I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.
> 
> (sorry, just very confused)


The premise is the lever swings the plate, not tightens belt. linkage.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable. 
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

jaytpilk said:


> Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral?
> 
> The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear".
> 
> ...



maybe this shows the mechanism we have been trying to explain


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

I think this is the exact assembly


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> I think this is the exact assembly


Yes, this is my machine and the video was a question on how to get the friction wheel off it's axle. I finally figured that out


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable.
> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
> 
> View attachment 181567


Thank you. This helps a lot, and may be showing/telling me what my issue is. (I'm about to upload a video I just took which shows what's going on ...but at the end of the day, that red circle/section above === What actuates that to pivot up and/or down? The drive lever? My drive lever has no impact on that thing - and frankly nothing does. So I believe that's my issue: To figure out why my friction plate/disc does not pivot/swing up or down. The only thing that "slides" it up and down is the shift selector.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

First of all: THANK YOU to everyone who is chiming in and helping me!!!! As I eluded above to Oneboltshort, I believe my issue is that the arm that should be swinging/pivoting my friction plate/disc up and down, ain't doin nuthing. Here's the video I just took:


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Hi all. I have an awesome (albeit older) Husqy 10-30E snowblower and after finally getting a 'new' friction wheel (a Yamaha part!!!) I thought I was all set to welcome Winter and snowblow with ease. However, as soon as I move the shifter from neutral and drop it into whichever gear I choose - it engages the wheels. When I squeeze the "drive" lever with my left hand, it's further engaged (drives stronger), which ...obviously makes sense. 

I removed the belly pan and sure enough, as soon as I start the machine - with the gear/drive selector in the Neutral slot, that friction plate spins. Fast. Removing the plastic belt cover, and sure enough, the drive belt is engaged and spinning with the turn of the engine.

The idler pulley is as far out of the way as it can be, touching the metal frame of the machine. Could I have the wrong belt in there that is just a little too tight? I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. Obviously that moves the friction plate (or "disc") up and down. But the fact that it is spinning as soon as the mower starts is not right, I assume. (Because you'd wear a flat spot on your friction wheel by just putting it into, say, 2nd gear or reverse --- without actuating the drive level with your left hand --- and the friction wheel is now being driven by the friction plate/disc ...

Am I missing something? Any suggestions? Again, thinking that I must have the wrong Drive belt in there....??

Thank you in advance.

Jay


----------



## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


----------



## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I'll second BullFrog's suggestion, but with maybe a slightly -longer- belt so it releases when the drive handle is relaxed. The diameters of the two friction wheels may be slightly different, and as he mentions there's the belt width to consider too. Regardless, the belt you need will be loose enough with drive handle released to not drive belt to the friction wheel. 

In a perfect-drive world, the belt will be wide enough to let the belt sit at or just shy of the OD of the V-groove in the pulleys. The belt drives from the sides of the V near the top. The actual drive-release and engage happens at the engine pulley end just because of the smaller diameter and smaller friction area, so the width is probably best determined there if the groove widths are different.

I'll also warn that while it's tempting to play with length on FHP (fractional horsepower) belts at the hardware store, you are really looking for a stronger Kevlar/Aramid or better belt to handle the snow throwing loads.

Advice retracted...  

I was foolishly thinking of the auger drive mechanism. As others state, the friction wheel always turns with the engine, and engage/disengage is handled by the drive wheel contact with the friction wheel face. Lengthen the pull linkage or cable to allow the tire on that drive wheel to to move away from the friction face completely. 

sorry...


----------



## LenD (Nov 17, 2020)

And don't use an automotive drive belt; use one that is rated for snowblower, power equipment, etc (ie power-rated belt). Car belts won't take the abuse.


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I don't know about Husky snowblowers, but every 2 stage I have worked on the traction pulley is always spinning with the engine. The traction pulley idler is set to remove any slop in the belt, but not too tight as to tension the belt. The handle lever then drops the friction disc onto the moving friction plate (often the pulley), thus engaging the wheels. There is an adjustment for the handle lever linkage such that the friction disc is just above the always spinning plate, and comes into contact when the lever is actuated.

thanks


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many styles have the drive plate swing, i.e pull into, the fixed friction drive wheel, which is already in its selected gear.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

BullFrog said:


> From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


Thank you. How would I loosen the belt? And I would think - to loosen the "belt" - that I wouldn't want to try a slightly shorter belt, but, a slightly longer one, right?

One other challenge here is that, every website I look to for parts diagrams on this machine (model number 954201031d ) say that there are no longer parts diagrams available. So i can't confidently confirm the correct part number for the correct belt. Any chance that someone out there knows what the part number is for the correct drive belt?

Thanks all!!!

Jay


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

I found the following belt and ordered it - hopefully it fits/works: *Husqvarna 531002591*


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I'm still at a loss why you are looking at the belt. As I mentioned, on all machines I have worked on, if the traction is always engaged, it is a linkage problem, not a drive belt problem. You stated "
I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. " I think this is where the problem lies.

thanks.


----------



## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral? 

The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear". 

With that friction plate spinning so fast ---- WITHOUT THE LEFT HAND DRIVE LEVER SQUEEZED --- the moment the shift selector is taken out of Neutral and moved to a 'gear', say 2nd gear, and I allow the selector to pop into that gear slot, the friction plate RAISES UP and engages the friction wheel and shes off to the races. I don't even have to squeeze the lefthand lever.

And if I were to adjust the the linkage, all that would do is move the friction plate away from the wheel (or adjusted in the other direction, closer to it ...and it's already TOO close). How can it be that the wheel is supposed to come into contact with the friction disc/plate WHILE IT'S SPINNING and the drive lever not squeezed??? It would wear a flat spot on the friction wheel's rubber.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

JJG723 said:


> The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.

I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.

(sorry, just very confused)


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lol .... I got confused just reading and trying to decipher your interpretation of what is going on .... I

In my travels, I have come across many different friction wheel drive setups ....... Although they may be different in there operations, they are all pretty straight forward ..... Most can be easily adjusted, and some a little harder .... They all work in rhythm with springs, bushings, bearings, cable, rods, shafts, etc., Etc. ....... As well as the rubber wearing out or getting chewed up .... Levers bend, springs break or stretch , and on and on .....

Sometimes one has to look at what a machine condition is and how or how not it is performing by doing a hands on inspection and some detective work.

Maybe its a long day and I'm ready for bed ..... Lol


----------



## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

jaytpilk said:


> Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.
> 
> I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.
> 
> (sorry, just very confused)


The premise is the lever swings the plate, not tightens belt. linkage.


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable. 
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

jaytpilk said:


> Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral?
> 
> The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear".
> 
> ...



maybe this shows the mechanism we have been trying to explain


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

I think this is the exact assembly


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> I think this is the exact assembly


Yes, this is my machine and the video was a question on how to get the friction wheel off it's axle. I finally figured that out


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable.
> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
> 
> View attachment 181567


Thank you. This helps a lot, and may be showing/telling me what my issue is. (I'm about to upload a video I just took which shows what's going on ...but at the end of the day, that red circle/section above === What actuates that to pivot up and/or down? The drive lever? My drive lever has no impact on that thing - and frankly nothing does. So I believe that's my issue: To figure out why my friction plate/disc does not pivot/swing up or down. The only thing that "slides" it up and down is the shift selector.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

First of all: THANK YOU to everyone who is chiming in and helping me!!!! As I eluded above to Oneboltshort, I believe my issue is that the arm that should be swinging/pivoting my friction plate/disc up and down, ain't doin nuthing. Here's the video I just took:


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Hi all. I have an awesome (albeit older) Husqy 10-30E snowblower and after finally getting a 'new' friction wheel (a Yamaha part!!!) I thought I was all set to welcome Winter and snowblow with ease. However, as soon as I move the shifter from neutral and drop it into whichever gear I choose - it engages the wheels. When I squeeze the "drive" lever with my left hand, it's further engaged (drives stronger), which ...obviously makes sense. 

I removed the belly pan and sure enough, as soon as I start the machine - with the gear/drive selector in the Neutral slot, that friction plate spins. Fast. Removing the plastic belt cover, and sure enough, the drive belt is engaged and spinning with the turn of the engine.

The idler pulley is as far out of the way as it can be, touching the metal frame of the machine. Could I have the wrong belt in there that is just a little too tight? I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. Obviously that moves the friction plate (or "disc") up and down. But the fact that it is spinning as soon as the mower starts is not right, I assume. (Because you'd wear a flat spot on your friction wheel by just putting it into, say, 2nd gear or reverse --- without actuating the drive level with your left hand --- and the friction wheel is now being driven by the friction plate/disc ...

Am I missing something? Any suggestions? Again, thinking that I must have the wrong Drive belt in there....??

Thank you in advance.

Jay


----------



## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


----------



## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I'll second BullFrog's suggestion, but with maybe a slightly -longer- belt so it releases when the drive handle is relaxed. The diameters of the two friction wheels may be slightly different, and as he mentions there's the belt width to consider too. Regardless, the belt you need will be loose enough with drive handle released to not drive belt to the friction wheel. 

In a perfect-drive world, the belt will be wide enough to let the belt sit at or just shy of the OD of the V-groove in the pulleys. The belt drives from the sides of the V near the top. The actual drive-release and engage happens at the engine pulley end just because of the smaller diameter and smaller friction area, so the width is probably best determined there if the groove widths are different.

I'll also warn that while it's tempting to play with length on FHP (fractional horsepower) belts at the hardware store, you are really looking for a stronger Kevlar/Aramid or better belt to handle the snow throwing loads.

Advice retracted...  

I was foolishly thinking of the auger drive mechanism. As others state, the friction wheel always turns with the engine, and engage/disengage is handled by the drive wheel contact with the friction wheel face. Lengthen the pull linkage or cable to allow the tire on that drive wheel to to move away from the friction face completely. 

sorry...


----------



## LenD (Nov 17, 2020)

And don't use an automotive drive belt; use one that is rated for snowblower, power equipment, etc (ie power-rated belt). Car belts won't take the abuse.


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I don't know about Husky snowblowers, but every 2 stage I have worked on the traction pulley is always spinning with the engine. The traction pulley idler is set to remove any slop in the belt, but not too tight as to tension the belt. The handle lever then drops the friction disc onto the moving friction plate (often the pulley), thus engaging the wheels. There is an adjustment for the handle lever linkage such that the friction disc is just above the always spinning plate, and comes into contact when the lever is actuated.

thanks


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many styles have the drive plate swing, i.e pull into, the fixed friction drive wheel, which is already in its selected gear.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

BullFrog said:


> From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


Thank you. How would I loosen the belt? And I would think - to loosen the "belt" - that I wouldn't want to try a slightly shorter belt, but, a slightly longer one, right?

One other challenge here is that, every website I look to for parts diagrams on this machine (model number 954201031d ) say that there are no longer parts diagrams available. So i can't confidently confirm the correct part number for the correct belt. Any chance that someone out there knows what the part number is for the correct drive belt?

Thanks all!!!

Jay


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

I found the following belt and ordered it - hopefully it fits/works: *Husqvarna 531002591*


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I'm still at a loss why you are looking at the belt. As I mentioned, on all machines I have worked on, if the traction is always engaged, it is a linkage problem, not a drive belt problem. You stated "
I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. " I think this is where the problem lies.

thanks.


----------



## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral? 

The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear". 

With that friction plate spinning so fast ---- WITHOUT THE LEFT HAND DRIVE LEVER SQUEEZED --- the moment the shift selector is taken out of Neutral and moved to a 'gear', say 2nd gear, and I allow the selector to pop into that gear slot, the friction plate RAISES UP and engages the friction wheel and shes off to the races. I don't even have to squeeze the lefthand lever.

And if I were to adjust the the linkage, all that would do is move the friction plate away from the wheel (or adjusted in the other direction, closer to it ...and it's already TOO close). How can it be that the wheel is supposed to come into contact with the friction disc/plate WHILE IT'S SPINNING and the drive lever not squeezed??? It would wear a flat spot on the friction wheel's rubber.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

JJG723 said:


> The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.

I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.

(sorry, just very confused)


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lol .... I got confused just reading and trying to decipher your interpretation of what is going on .... I

In my travels, I have come across many different friction wheel drive setups ....... Although they may be different in there operations, they are all pretty straight forward ..... Most can be easily adjusted, and some a little harder .... They all work in rhythm with springs, bushings, bearings, cable, rods, shafts, etc., Etc. ....... As well as the rubber wearing out or getting chewed up .... Levers bend, springs break or stretch , and on and on .....

Sometimes one has to look at what a machine condition is and how or how not it is performing by doing a hands on inspection and some detective work.

Maybe its a long day and I'm ready for bed ..... Lol


----------



## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

jaytpilk said:


> Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.
> 
> I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.
> 
> (sorry, just very confused)


The premise is the lever swings the plate, not tightens belt. linkage.


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable. 
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

jaytpilk said:


> Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral?
> 
> The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear".
> 
> ...



maybe this shows the mechanism we have been trying to explain


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

I think this is the exact assembly


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> I think this is the exact assembly


Yes, this is my machine and the video was a question on how to get the friction wheel off it's axle. I finally figured that out


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable.
> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
> 
> View attachment 181567


Thank you. This helps a lot, and may be showing/telling me what my issue is. (I'm about to upload a video I just took which shows what's going on ...but at the end of the day, that red circle/section above === What actuates that to pivot up and/or down? The drive lever? My drive lever has no impact on that thing - and frankly nothing does. So I believe that's my issue: To figure out why my friction plate/disc does not pivot/swing up or down. The only thing that "slides" it up and down is the shift selector.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

First of all: THANK YOU to everyone who is chiming in and helping me!!!! As I eluded above to Oneboltshort, I believe my issue is that the arm that should be swinging/pivoting my friction plate/disc up and down, ain't doin nuthing. Here's the video I just took:


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Hi all. I have an awesome (albeit older) Husqy 10-30E snowblower and after finally getting a 'new' friction wheel (a Yamaha part!!!) I thought I was all set to welcome Winter and snowblow with ease. However, as soon as I move the shifter from neutral and drop it into whichever gear I choose - it engages the wheels. When I squeeze the "drive" lever with my left hand, it's further engaged (drives stronger), which ...obviously makes sense. 

I removed the belly pan and sure enough, as soon as I start the machine - with the gear/drive selector in the Neutral slot, that friction plate spins. Fast. Removing the plastic belt cover, and sure enough, the drive belt is engaged and spinning with the turn of the engine.

The idler pulley is as far out of the way as it can be, touching the metal frame of the machine. Could I have the wrong belt in there that is just a little too tight? I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. Obviously that moves the friction plate (or "disc") up and down. But the fact that it is spinning as soon as the mower starts is not right, I assume. (Because you'd wear a flat spot on your friction wheel by just putting it into, say, 2nd gear or reverse --- without actuating the drive level with your left hand --- and the friction wheel is now being driven by the friction plate/disc ...

Am I missing something? Any suggestions? Again, thinking that I must have the wrong Drive belt in there....??

Thank you in advance.

Jay


----------



## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


----------



## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I'll second BullFrog's suggestion, but with maybe a slightly -longer- belt so it releases when the drive handle is relaxed. The diameters of the two friction wheels may be slightly different, and as he mentions there's the belt width to consider too. Regardless, the belt you need will be loose enough with drive handle released to not drive belt to the friction wheel. 

In a perfect-drive world, the belt will be wide enough to let the belt sit at or just shy of the OD of the V-groove in the pulleys. The belt drives from the sides of the V near the top. The actual drive-release and engage happens at the engine pulley end just because of the smaller diameter and smaller friction area, so the width is probably best determined there if the groove widths are different.

I'll also warn that while it's tempting to play with length on FHP (fractional horsepower) belts at the hardware store, you are really looking for a stronger Kevlar/Aramid or better belt to handle the snow throwing loads.

Advice retracted...  

I was foolishly thinking of the auger drive mechanism. As others state, the friction wheel always turns with the engine, and engage/disengage is handled by the drive wheel contact with the friction wheel face. Lengthen the pull linkage or cable to allow the tire on that drive wheel to to move away from the friction face completely. 

sorry...


----------



## LenD (Nov 17, 2020)

And don't use an automotive drive belt; use one that is rated for snowblower, power equipment, etc (ie power-rated belt). Car belts won't take the abuse.


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I don't know about Husky snowblowers, but every 2 stage I have worked on the traction pulley is always spinning with the engine. The traction pulley idler is set to remove any slop in the belt, but not too tight as to tension the belt. The handle lever then drops the friction disc onto the moving friction plate (often the pulley), thus engaging the wheels. There is an adjustment for the handle lever linkage such that the friction disc is just above the always spinning plate, and comes into contact when the lever is actuated.

thanks


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many styles have the drive plate swing, i.e pull into, the fixed friction drive wheel, which is already in its selected gear.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

BullFrog said:


> From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


Thank you. How would I loosen the belt? And I would think - to loosen the "belt" - that I wouldn't want to try a slightly shorter belt, but, a slightly longer one, right?

One other challenge here is that, every website I look to for parts diagrams on this machine (model number 954201031d ) say that there are no longer parts diagrams available. So i can't confidently confirm the correct part number for the correct belt. Any chance that someone out there knows what the part number is for the correct drive belt?

Thanks all!!!

Jay


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

I found the following belt and ordered it - hopefully it fits/works: *Husqvarna 531002591*


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I'm still at a loss why you are looking at the belt. As I mentioned, on all machines I have worked on, if the traction is always engaged, it is a linkage problem, not a drive belt problem. You stated "
I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. " I think this is where the problem lies.

thanks.


----------



## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral? 

The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear". 

With that friction plate spinning so fast ---- WITHOUT THE LEFT HAND DRIVE LEVER SQUEEZED --- the moment the shift selector is taken out of Neutral and moved to a 'gear', say 2nd gear, and I allow the selector to pop into that gear slot, the friction plate RAISES UP and engages the friction wheel and shes off to the races. I don't even have to squeeze the lefthand lever.

And if I were to adjust the the linkage, all that would do is move the friction plate away from the wheel (or adjusted in the other direction, closer to it ...and it's already TOO close). How can it be that the wheel is supposed to come into contact with the friction disc/plate WHILE IT'S SPINNING and the drive lever not squeezed??? It would wear a flat spot on the friction wheel's rubber.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

JJG723 said:


> The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.

I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.

(sorry, just very confused)


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lol .... I got confused just reading and trying to decipher your interpretation of what is going on .... I

In my travels, I have come across many different friction wheel drive setups ....... Although they may be different in there operations, they are all pretty straight forward ..... Most can be easily adjusted, and some a little harder .... They all work in rhythm with springs, bushings, bearings, cable, rods, shafts, etc., Etc. ....... As well as the rubber wearing out or getting chewed up .... Levers bend, springs break or stretch , and on and on .....

Sometimes one has to look at what a machine condition is and how or how not it is performing by doing a hands on inspection and some detective work.

Maybe its a long day and I'm ready for bed ..... Lol


----------



## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

jaytpilk said:


> Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.
> 
> I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.
> 
> (sorry, just very confused)


The premise is the lever swings the plate, not tightens belt. linkage.


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable. 
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

jaytpilk said:


> Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral?
> 
> The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear".
> 
> ...



maybe this shows the mechanism we have been trying to explain


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

I think this is the exact assembly


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> I think this is the exact assembly


Yes, this is my machine and the video was a question on how to get the friction wheel off it's axle. I finally figured that out


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable.
> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
> 
> View attachment 181567


Thank you. This helps a lot, and may be showing/telling me what my issue is. (I'm about to upload a video I just took which shows what's going on ...but at the end of the day, that red circle/section above === What actuates that to pivot up and/or down? The drive lever? My drive lever has no impact on that thing - and frankly nothing does. So I believe that's my issue: To figure out why my friction plate/disc does not pivot/swing up or down. The only thing that "slides" it up and down is the shift selector.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

First of all: THANK YOU to everyone who is chiming in and helping me!!!! As I eluded above to Oneboltshort, I believe my issue is that the arm that should be swinging/pivoting my friction plate/disc up and down, ain't doin nuthing. Here's the video I just took:


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Hi all. I have an awesome (albeit older) Husqy 10-30E snowblower and after finally getting a 'new' friction wheel (a Yamaha part!!!) I thought I was all set to welcome Winter and snowblow with ease. However, as soon as I move the shifter from neutral and drop it into whichever gear I choose - it engages the wheels. When I squeeze the "drive" lever with my left hand, it's further engaged (drives stronger), which ...obviously makes sense. 

I removed the belly pan and sure enough, as soon as I start the machine - with the gear/drive selector in the Neutral slot, that friction plate spins. Fast. Removing the plastic belt cover, and sure enough, the drive belt is engaged and spinning with the turn of the engine.

The idler pulley is as far out of the way as it can be, touching the metal frame of the machine. Could I have the wrong belt in there that is just a little too tight? I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. Obviously that moves the friction plate (or "disc") up and down. But the fact that it is spinning as soon as the mower starts is not right, I assume. (Because you'd wear a flat spot on your friction wheel by just putting it into, say, 2nd gear or reverse --- without actuating the drive level with your left hand --- and the friction wheel is now being driven by the friction plate/disc ...

Am I missing something? Any suggestions? Again, thinking that I must have the wrong Drive belt in there....??

Thank you in advance.

Jay


----------



## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


----------



## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I'll second BullFrog's suggestion, but with maybe a slightly -longer- belt so it releases when the drive handle is relaxed. The diameters of the two friction wheels may be slightly different, and as he mentions there's the belt width to consider too. Regardless, the belt you need will be loose enough with drive handle released to not drive belt to the friction wheel. 

In a perfect-drive world, the belt will be wide enough to let the belt sit at or just shy of the OD of the V-groove in the pulleys. The belt drives from the sides of the V near the top. The actual drive-release and engage happens at the engine pulley end just because of the smaller diameter and smaller friction area, so the width is probably best determined there if the groove widths are different.

I'll also warn that while it's tempting to play with length on FHP (fractional horsepower) belts at the hardware store, you are really looking for a stronger Kevlar/Aramid or better belt to handle the snow throwing loads.

Advice retracted...  

I was foolishly thinking of the auger drive mechanism. As others state, the friction wheel always turns with the engine, and engage/disengage is handled by the drive wheel contact with the friction wheel face. Lengthen the pull linkage or cable to allow the tire on that drive wheel to to move away from the friction face completely. 

sorry...


----------



## LenD (Nov 17, 2020)

And don't use an automotive drive belt; use one that is rated for snowblower, power equipment, etc (ie power-rated belt). Car belts won't take the abuse.


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I don't know about Husky snowblowers, but every 2 stage I have worked on the traction pulley is always spinning with the engine. The traction pulley idler is set to remove any slop in the belt, but not too tight as to tension the belt. The handle lever then drops the friction disc onto the moving friction plate (often the pulley), thus engaging the wheels. There is an adjustment for the handle lever linkage such that the friction disc is just above the always spinning plate, and comes into contact when the lever is actuated.

thanks


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many styles have the drive plate swing, i.e pull into, the fixed friction drive wheel, which is already in its selected gear.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

BullFrog said:


> From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


Thank you. How would I loosen the belt? And I would think - to loosen the "belt" - that I wouldn't want to try a slightly shorter belt, but, a slightly longer one, right?

One other challenge here is that, every website I look to for parts diagrams on this machine (model number 954201031d ) say that there are no longer parts diagrams available. So i can't confidently confirm the correct part number for the correct belt. Any chance that someone out there knows what the part number is for the correct drive belt?

Thanks all!!!

Jay


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

I found the following belt and ordered it - hopefully it fits/works: *Husqvarna 531002591*


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I'm still at a loss why you are looking at the belt. As I mentioned, on all machines I have worked on, if the traction is always engaged, it is a linkage problem, not a drive belt problem. You stated "
I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. " I think this is where the problem lies.

thanks.


----------



## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral? 

The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear". 

With that friction plate spinning so fast ---- WITHOUT THE LEFT HAND DRIVE LEVER SQUEEZED --- the moment the shift selector is taken out of Neutral and moved to a 'gear', say 2nd gear, and I allow the selector to pop into that gear slot, the friction plate RAISES UP and engages the friction wheel and shes off to the races. I don't even have to squeeze the lefthand lever.

And if I were to adjust the the linkage, all that would do is move the friction plate away from the wheel (or adjusted in the other direction, closer to it ...and it's already TOO close). How can it be that the wheel is supposed to come into contact with the friction disc/plate WHILE IT'S SPINNING and the drive lever not squeezed??? It would wear a flat spot on the friction wheel's rubber.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

JJG723 said:


> The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.

I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.

(sorry, just very confused)


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lol .... I got confused just reading and trying to decipher your interpretation of what is going on .... I

In my travels, I have come across many different friction wheel drive setups ....... Although they may be different in there operations, they are all pretty straight forward ..... Most can be easily adjusted, and some a little harder .... They all work in rhythm with springs, bushings, bearings, cable, rods, shafts, etc., Etc. ....... As well as the rubber wearing out or getting chewed up .... Levers bend, springs break or stretch , and on and on .....

Sometimes one has to look at what a machine condition is and how or how not it is performing by doing a hands on inspection and some detective work.

Maybe its a long day and I'm ready for bed ..... Lol


----------



## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

jaytpilk said:


> Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.
> 
> I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.
> 
> (sorry, just very confused)


The premise is the lever swings the plate, not tightens belt. linkage.


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable. 
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

jaytpilk said:


> Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral?
> 
> The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear".
> 
> ...



maybe this shows the mechanism we have been trying to explain


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

I think this is the exact assembly


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> I think this is the exact assembly


Yes, this is my machine and the video was a question on how to get the friction wheel off it's axle. I finally figured that out


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable.
> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
> 
> View attachment 181567


Thank you. This helps a lot, and may be showing/telling me what my issue is. (I'm about to upload a video I just took which shows what's going on ...but at the end of the day, that red circle/section above === What actuates that to pivot up and/or down? The drive lever? My drive lever has no impact on that thing - and frankly nothing does. So I believe that's my issue: To figure out why my friction plate/disc does not pivot/swing up or down. The only thing that "slides" it up and down is the shift selector.


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

First of all: THANK YOU to everyone who is chiming in and helping me!!!! As I eluded above to Oneboltshort, I believe my issue is that the arm that should be swinging/pivoting my friction plate/disc up and down, ain't doin nuthing. Here's the video I just took:


----------



## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Hi all. I have an awesome (albeit older) Husqy 10-30E snowblower and after finally getting a 'new' friction wheel (a Yamaha part!!!) I thought I was all set to welcome Winter and snowblow with ease. However, as soon as I move the shifter from neutral and drop it into whichever gear I choose - it engages the wheels. When I squeeze the "drive" lever with my left hand, it's further engaged (drives stronger), which ...obviously makes sense. 

I removed the belly pan and sure enough, as soon as I start the machine - with the gear/drive selector in the Neutral slot, that friction plate spins. Fast. Removing the plastic belt cover, and sure enough, the drive belt is engaged and spinning with the turn of the engine.

The idler pulley is as far out of the way as it can be, touching the metal frame of the machine. Could I have the wrong belt in there that is just a little too tight? I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. Obviously that moves the friction plate (or "disc") up and down. But the fact that it is spinning as soon as the mower starts is not right, I assume. (Because you'd wear a flat spot on your friction wheel by just putting it into, say, 2nd gear or reverse --- without actuating the drive level with your left hand --- and the friction wheel is now being driven by the friction plate/disc ...

Am I missing something? Any suggestions? Again, thinking that I must have the wrong Drive belt in there....??

Thank you in advance.

Jay


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## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I'll second BullFrog's suggestion, but with maybe a slightly -longer- belt so it releases when the drive handle is relaxed. The diameters of the two friction wheels may be slightly different, and as he mentions there's the belt width to consider too. Regardless, the belt you need will be loose enough with drive handle released to not drive belt to the friction wheel. 

In a perfect-drive world, the belt will be wide enough to let the belt sit at or just shy of the OD of the V-groove in the pulleys. The belt drives from the sides of the V near the top. The actual drive-release and engage happens at the engine pulley end just because of the smaller diameter and smaller friction area, so the width is probably best determined there if the groove widths are different.

I'll also warn that while it's tempting to play with length on FHP (fractional horsepower) belts at the hardware store, you are really looking for a stronger Kevlar/Aramid or better belt to handle the snow throwing loads.

Advice retracted...  

I was foolishly thinking of the auger drive mechanism. As others state, the friction wheel always turns with the engine, and engage/disengage is handled by the drive wheel contact with the friction wheel face. Lengthen the pull linkage or cable to allow the tire on that drive wheel to to move away from the friction face completely. 

sorry...


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## LenD (Nov 17, 2020)

And don't use an automotive drive belt; use one that is rated for snowblower, power equipment, etc (ie power-rated belt). Car belts won't take the abuse.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I don't know about Husky snowblowers, but every 2 stage I have worked on the traction pulley is always spinning with the engine. The traction pulley idler is set to remove any slop in the belt, but not too tight as to tension the belt. The handle lever then drops the friction disc onto the moving friction plate (often the pulley), thus engaging the wheels. There is an adjustment for the handle lever linkage such that the friction disc is just above the always spinning plate, and comes into contact when the lever is actuated.

thanks


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many styles have the drive plate swing, i.e pull into, the fixed friction drive wheel, which is already in its selected gear.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

BullFrog said:


> From your description the belt would be the first thing I would suspect. If you can, loosen it and see if it helps, if not then try a slightly shorter belt. But also make sure the belt is the correct width. Being too wide the belt will ride up higher in the pulley effectively shortening it.


Thank you. How would I loosen the belt? And I would think - to loosen the "belt" - that I wouldn't want to try a slightly shorter belt, but, a slightly longer one, right?

One other challenge here is that, every website I look to for parts diagrams on this machine (model number 954201031d ) say that there are no longer parts diagrams available. So i can't confidently confirm the correct part number for the correct belt. Any chance that someone out there knows what the part number is for the correct drive belt?

Thanks all!!!

Jay


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

I found the following belt and ordered it - hopefully it fits/works: *Husqvarna 531002591*


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

I'm still at a loss why you are looking at the belt. As I mentioned, on all machines I have worked on, if the traction is always engaged, it is a linkage problem, not a drive belt problem. You stated "
I'm assuming the shifter selector, and the adjustable rod that is connected to it - with the hinge at the top and actuating the sort of 'plunger' down at the bottom, isn't where the issue is. " I think this is where the problem lies.

thanks.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral? 

The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear". 

With that friction plate spinning so fast ---- WITHOUT THE LEFT HAND DRIVE LEVER SQUEEZED --- the moment the shift selector is taken out of Neutral and moved to a 'gear', say 2nd gear, and I allow the selector to pop into that gear slot, the friction plate RAISES UP and engages the friction wheel and shes off to the races. I don't even have to squeeze the lefthand lever.

And if I were to adjust the the linkage, all that would do is move the friction plate away from the wheel (or adjusted in the other direction, closer to it ...and it's already TOO close). How can it be that the wheel is supposed to come into contact with the friction disc/plate WHILE IT'S SPINNING and the drive lever not squeezed??? It would wear a flat spot on the friction wheel's rubber.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

JJG723 said:


> The fiction wheel needs to be adjusted. It was most likely adjusted "in" to compensate for wear. Now the new part has more meat on it so the clutch is too tight.


Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.

I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.

(sorry, just very confused)


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lol .... I got confused just reading and trying to decipher your interpretation of what is going on .... I

In my travels, I have come across many different friction wheel drive setups ....... Although they may be different in there operations, they are all pretty straight forward ..... Most can be easily adjusted, and some a little harder .... They all work in rhythm with springs, bushings, bearings, cable, rods, shafts, etc., Etc. ....... As well as the rubber wearing out or getting chewed up .... Levers bend, springs break or stretch , and on and on .....

Sometimes one has to look at what a machine condition is and how or how not it is performing by doing a hands on inspection and some detective work.

Maybe its a long day and I'm ready for bed ..... Lol


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

jaytpilk said:


> Sorry if I'm missing something here, but, even if I adjust the friction plate/disc (because obviously the friction wheel with the rubber perimeter can't be adjusted up or down, it's on a fixed axle), and I adjust it so that the friction plate if further away from the friction wheel ...I'm not understanding how this actually works - how does the machine move? The lever to engage the drive belt does ONLY that, it does not raise or lower the friction plate. And if the plate is spinning just because the machine is running, the moment I move the shift selector from Neutral to a forward or reverse position, and LET GO of the selector, the friction plate/disc raises up and contacts the friction wheel ...AND THE MACHINE STARTS MOVING. IF I HOLD IN PLACE, IT WILL WEAR A FLAT SPOT ON THE FRICTION WHEEL.
> 
> I don't understand how this is not an issue with the drive belt being too tight, such that the friction plate is ALWAYS spinning.
> 
> (sorry, just very confused)


The premise is the lever swings the plate, not tightens belt. linkage.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable. 
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

jaytpilk said:


> Thank you Paulm12 and JJG723, but, please help me understand: If it's not the belt, then how does it make sense that the friction plate is spinning so fast even when the shift selector is sitting in Neutral?
> 
> The moment I place the machine into a "gear", the shift selector into slots 1-4 or Reverse 1 or Reverse 2, that the snowblower takes off - moving in that direction. That CAN'T be how Husqvarna designed this snow blower, to take off running when the operator simply drops it into a "gear".
> 
> ...



maybe this shows the mechanism we have been trying to explain


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

I think this is the exact assembly


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> I think this is the exact assembly


Yes, this is my machine and the video was a question on how to get the friction wheel off it's axle. I finally figured that out


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> The green assembly is stuck toward the rubber wheel, red is what pivots it, red is connected to the traction engage handlebar cable.
> PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
> 
> View attachment 181567


Thank you. This helps a lot, and may be showing/telling me what my issue is. (I'm about to upload a video I just took which shows what's going on ...but at the end of the day, that red circle/section above === What actuates that to pivot up and/or down? The drive lever? My drive lever has no impact on that thing - and frankly nothing does. So I believe that's my issue: To figure out why my friction plate/disc does not pivot/swing up or down. The only thing that "slides" it up and down is the shift selector.


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## jaytpilk (Nov 26, 2018)

First of all: THANK YOU to everyone who is chiming in and helping me!!!! As I eluded above to Oneboltshort, I believe my issue is that the arm that should be swinging/pivoting my friction plate/disc up and down, ain't doin nuthing. Here's the video I just took:


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