# Craftsman 536.881800 stuck in gear



## rtraveler (Oct 9, 2015)

So my snowblower is stuck in gear. I removed the bottom panel and it looks like the hex shaft is rusted so it won't allow the friction wheel to move back and forth. I tried hitting it with a hammer and chisel at an angle but it won't budge. Any other ideas?

I was thinking of laying the snowblower on its side and spraying some WD40 on the shaft and letting it sit overnight and try hammering it again the next day. Thanks in advance.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Here are a couple videos on what to do to prevent the issue. To get it loose you might have to take the assembly out. Usually the hex doesn't have a real tight fit so hopefully it comes loose fairly easy. If you choose to tip the whole machine on its side you probably want to drain any gas and oil in it or at least make sure nothing leaks.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

rtraveler said:


> So my snowblower is stuck in gear. I removed the bottom panel and it looks like the hex shaft is rusted so it won't allow the friction wheel to move back and forth. I tried hitting it with a hammer and chisel at an angle but it won't budge. Any other ideas?
> 
> I was thinking of laying the snowblower on its side and spraying some WD40 on the shaft and letting it sit overnight and try hammering it again the next day. Thanks in advance.


You may have a big problem there... but here's what I'd do:
First if possible unbolt the friction wheel and set it off to the side or remove it completely so it doesn't get anything on it.

Then sand the hex shaft on either side of the friction wheel hub. That way if you get the hub loose and move it, you won't just be moving it to another rusted area.

Next spray the area where the hub is stuck to the shaft with P-B blaster. WD-40 is better than nothing, but P-B blaster is 10 times better than WD-40.

Then wait. Overnight at least, 24 hours is better. Then see if you can get the hub loose. If at all possible when hammering or prying on it, apply the force as close as possible to the center, and rotate it so you're not always hitting or pressing in the same place each time.


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## rtraveler (Oct 9, 2015)

ELaw said:


> You may have a big problem there... but here's what I'd do:
> First if possible unbolt the friction wheel and set it off to the side or remove it completely so it doesn't get anything on it.
> 
> Then sand the hex shaft on either side of the friction wheel hub. That way if you get the hub loose and move it, you won't just be moving it to another rusted area.
> ...



I used a crimped wire wheel brush to remove the rust on both sides of the hex shaft. I also applied PB Blaster yesterday and tried to hammer it two hours later but it still wouldn't move. I'm going to try to hammer it again this week. Thanks for your help.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

would recommend P.B. Blaster, make sure the friction wheel s clean after you free it


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

50/50 Acetone/ATF is the best penatrant I've ever used. Even better than my 2nd favorite = Kroil. FWIW


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## rtraveler (Oct 9, 2015)

mobiledynamics said:


> 50/50 Acetone/ATF is the best penatrant I've ever used. Even better than my 2nd favorite = Kroil. FWIW


Thanks, I actually saw a guy use that on a youtube video.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Can you take the shaft out with the friction wheel seized in plane and work on it on a bench ?? Might be less stress if you can support the wheel when hitting the shaft. Might also try to use heat.
Hammering on it in place might distort the housing or damage a mount/bushing ??


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