# Craftsman Model 536-82231 Transmission Problem



## bikefan (Mar 20, 2016)

I have a Craftsman 26 Inch snowblower which will not move forward up a hill and won't move backwards at all. I replaced the friction disk, which did not fix the problem. I removed the linkage to the clutch lever which raises and lowers the friction disk assembly (Shown as "E" in the attached picture), thinking it might restrain the friction disk which has no effect. Finally, I removed the restraint which prevents the disk from going all the way down to the metal speed disk (shown as 13 in the picture) which also did nothing. The friction disk "skates" over the speed disk.

I can send photos if that would be helpful.

Thanks in advance for any assistance. This snowblower has given me 20 years of great service and is built like a tank. The engine runs great. I'd like to keep it if possible.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

With the snow blower off put it in gear and engage the drive lever. Try to roll the machine backwards. Drag the tires if they don't roll. If the tires don't spin you most likely have a drive belt slipping problem. If the tires spin and you changed the friction disc then there probably is a bushing or bearing somewhere that is worn out. 

Pictures always help


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Agree.... look at the bushings/bearings on the sides and push/pull the auger assy and watch carefully for excess movement.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

That one looks like a close relative to a 536.90515 I bought the other year to rebuild and resell. Turned out some parts were missing so I had to make some mods to make it work.

This one you push the shifter forward to engage the drive. Things I did or had to do. The bushings between the pulley and drive wheel the friction plate presses against were shot so it wobbled when engaging the drive so they were replaced. I added a spring and turnbuckle between the shifter lever and the frame to replace one of the missing parts. Additionally I got 2 collars with set screws and put them on the shifter shaft on either side of the shifter handle to prevent that from moving. 

Between those mods, the drive was made functional again.

Hope that helps.


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## bikefan (Mar 20, 2016)

Thanks all for the great suggestions. I will have some time over the next few days to try them out and will report back. Thanks again.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Is the driven disk clean, no oil, or grease? Some times that is a problem. Basicly that machine has a suicide clutch, which means that you have to squeeze the clutch to stop the machine. Maybe the clutch spring is weak or missing, causing your problem. I have almost the identical machine.
Sid


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## bikefan (Mar 20, 2016)

I did some poking, shoving, and prodding based on the suggestions made here. I did not see or feel any excessive bearing play. I paid particular attention to the metal disk that the friction disk contacts to see if there was any play there. No Go. The metal disk is clean.

The belt from the engine also drives the rotor and the auger and those both work well - threw snow in winter as well as it ever has, so I don't think it is a belt problem. Besides, I can spin the friction disk with my hand when it is in first gear. I also observed it with the engine on, and watched the disk skate on the metal disk - it kind of rocks the machine, but does not propel it forward.

One idea I had if all else fails was to remove the metal disk the friction disk rests on (part number 14 in the diagram at the top of the thread) and put 4 washers on the bolts to raise this disk a bit so it contacts the friction disk better. Any thoughts on this?


I'm attaching a picture of the transmission, and also one of the snowblower itself. As I said before, it works great except for not propelling itself.

Thanks!


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

First make sure that the two springs shown in your first post are in place on your machine, and as suggested check all the shaft ends for loose, and or bad bearings. That is probably a Murray machine, and parts are available on a few sites.
Sid


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Having reread your first post, try this, with the engine off, and viewing the drive and disk. squeeze the clutch handle and move the speed handle back and forth, to see if the disc carrier will go from reverse to 4 th gear. Then try with the clutch handle NOT squeezed. It should not move easily, or at all. Also observe to see that all the linkages, and connections are good.
Sid


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## bikefan (Mar 20, 2016)

*Additional Observations and Revised Diagram*

Hello Sid,
Thanks for your suggestions. I did as you requested, and found that I could shift the disk drive transport from 5th gear to reverse whether I closed the clutch lever or not. It was easier with the clutch lever depressed, of course. 

In addition, I noticed that when the blower was in 5th gear (all the way to the right), there was a 1/8th inch gap between the friction disk and the metal plate (I have attached a photo that shows this- I stuck a folded piece of cardboard in the gap to make it more visible). There is no gap in reverse (when the transport is all the way to the left) or in 1st gear (left but two) but the gap gets bigger as one shifts into the higher gears(moving right). In reverse and first there is not enough contact to propel the machine.

I also noticed that the axle that the friction disk rotates around appears to be higher on the right side of the axle than on the left – it is not horizontal. I expect that is a problem. I’ve attached a photo which shows that(titled cockeyed axle). That might explain the gap phenomenon. I wonder how one can adjust that?

Finally, the diagram I had posted at the top of the thread was the one I received from the person I bought it from 20 years ago. I did some more looking, and found a diagram that is for my exact model number on the Sears site, which I am attaching. It is different - one obvious difference is that this diagram shows one spring on the transport mechanism, not two. 

Thanks for your help!

Phil


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Check the bearings on both ends of the hexagonal shaft, looks like the bearing on the 5 th speed end of that shaft may be shot, or loose. Check Donnyboy73 on tube, lots of help.
Sid


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Yep - Id blow it appart and just plan on new bushings/bearings at least. A new friction disc wouldn't hurt either.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Look at both ends of the hexagon shaft, it looks like the end by the 5 th speed bearing may be shot. Is an easy fix, and the bearings [buy them both] are cheap. Look uo Donnyboy73 on utube there are a few videos that will be very helpful.
Sid


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Sorry I made a duplicate post.
Sid


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Sorry I made a duplicate post.
Sid


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

bikefan said:


> Hello Sid,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Is it just me, or did those photos not show up due to errors of some kind?


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## bikefan (Mar 20, 2016)

*It's Fixed!*

Good News! It is fixed! 

I started the disassembly of the clutch. gear shift, and transport linkages and loosened the bolts that fastened the rails upon which the friction disk mechanism travels. I then noticed that the gap between the friction disk and the metal plate was gone! Somehow, some of the linkages were out of alignment. In addition, the previous owner had added a couple of washers to the transport linkage that were binding its motion. I removed those, greased it up, and took it out for a spin. It works better than ever! Gear 4 previously was useless - now it works fine.

Thanks to you all for the help!


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