# Storing your snowblower - top off the fuel & stabilize or drain the fuel?



## Vailen (Feb 16, 2014)

I have read that many people on this forum leave a full tank of gas in their snowblower with stabilizer when storing for the summer. I have recently read that some people completely drain their fuel tank before storage. Now I am confused. What's best for our snowblowers when storing for many months?


----------



## crb796 (Feb 20, 2014)

Being an avid boater this one of the greatest debated questions. Here in Pennsylvania a marine engine is much like a snowblower engine. It is in storage more than in use. There are two theories to this. One is to store with a full tank to prevent condensation in the the empty tank. And the other is to store empty to prevent a full tank of fuel absorbing condensation. I don't feel there is a correct answer to this question. If you were to ask 10 mechanics how to store your equipment I would bet your answer would be 50/50. It's all opinion. I have stored my boat both ways with no problems, but the fuel is always treated before I leave the dock. I'm sure you will get many opinions but that is mine.


----------



## SnowGuy69 (Feb 12, 2014)

I add stablizer to all gas that goes in a gas can. When I drain it at end of season, I think it help prevent varnish. With the high alcohol these days the gas just needs a drop of stabil and does seem to help. Having said that, I drain all my lawn mowers and snow blowers and run then dry before storage. When I add gas at the start of the season, they always start. You can spray the inside of the tank with Stabil spray to prevent rust.


----------



## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

DRAIN it.


----------



## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

I feel treating the fuel, topping it off and storing it but when brought out the next season, I drain the fuel and drop in some fresh is the best I can do. Not so bad with a plastic tank, but I would never store a metal tank dry. Of course there aren't many metal tanks being put on any more


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

cdestuck said:


> I feel treating the fuel, topping it off and storing it but when brought out the next season, I drain the fuel and drop in some fresh is the best I can do. Not so bad with a plastic tank, but I would never store a metal tank dry. Of course there aren't many metal tanks being put on any more


 All of my honda and Honda clones have metal tanks. I have always stored them dry and have never had any problems. I drain all of the fuel from the entire fuel system then I fog the inside of the dry fuel tank with WD40. Tanks look like new inside even after more than 10 years storage using this method.


----------



## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

It really doesn't matter if it if full or empty for this application as long as you stabilize the fuel that is in there before storage. 

Preventing condensation is a big deal with boats that hold $100 or more worth of fuel that is a nightmare to pump out and replace. For a snowblower, not such a big deal. Water sits at the bottom of the tank and would only take a second to drain just the water through the fuel line.

In my mind the real problem with draining is that the wet spots left behind when the carb is drained are much more likely to go to varnish as its all surface area exposed to air. Also there is the possibility of the needle and seat getting stuck from a little varnish or drying out and not sealing properly.

With leaving the tank I don't see nearly as many problems. If your anal, decide on totally full or totally empty. If you are like me and think you understand the issues at hand just stabilize the gas you use and let fate decide how much gas sits in the tank for the summer.


----------



## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

I have been running my boat's engine [350 chevy] dry for 27 seasons,[22years on the first carb] and have had no trouble. More or less the same for the snowblower, lawn mowers etc.
Sid


----------



## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

I'd fill it up with premium and stabil it. that's been working for the past 10 years on my Gilson 16HP Briggs tractor, and 1982 Ford F150 400M/4speed/4x4, and both are stored outside year round and not covered.


----------



## Kestral (Dec 22, 2013)

For years I left a full tank with Sta-bull and never had a problem. Then one year I ran my snowblower dry and I had issues when I put fuel in and ran it the next season it ran real poor that season?? Anyway I went back to just leaving fuel in the tank.


----------



## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

My experience was just the opposite. Stabilized E-10 was not kind to me when fall came. I now drain and run them until they die. Come fall, fill and go. Also off season storage is in a storage container with limited ventilation. I prefer not having a lot of gasoline trying to evaporate in there. 

On top of that a machine being used now any not even see service for a year or 2 so draining makes even more sense for me.


----------



## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

Like I said, once you understand the issues at hand you are free to make your own decision on what to do. I guarantee you that there is no right or wrong answer for this one.

I suppose for long term storage you have to remove all of the fuel from the carb and the lines. For off season however you can pretty much do whatever you want as long as you don't do nothing at all. I would even argue that you could do nothing as long as you start the motor and let it run every month during the off season.


----------



## Fred9 (Dec 21, 2013)

I agree with scipper77 in that I run my blower (and 5 k generator) for about 20 once every 45-60 days.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm lazy, I use a little Marine Stabil and carb cleaner in each batch I make up including 2 stroke. And when I say little, I measure it and add what's recommended for the gallons I'm making. Like laundry detergeant, too much can be worse than too little.
I try to always use ethanol free gas and lately have been lucky to find mid grade pure gas available at the local fleet farm.
I try to run them dry before putting them away but I have too many things with a gas tank and that's why I add the stabil each time I get gas. Maybe it's belt and suspenders but it's easier than pulling apart carbs for finding out too late when you need to use something it's running poorly.
The Marine Stabil is designed to work with ethanol blended fuels so I grab it rather than the regular red Stabil.
Works for me and that's what counts. 
.


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I add stabilizer to the gas can every time I buy gas. I also happen to use the Marine Sta-Bil, but that's also in part because it appears to be cheaper  Last time I checked, the bottles were similarly priced, but the Marine version treated about twice as many gallons, per ounce of Sta-Bil. 

I leave stabilized gas in the tanks for off-season. I don't actually top them off, I usually just leave what's there. I don't have any metal-tank equipment. 

I typically run the carb dry on machines with fuel shutoffs installed.


----------



## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

I just put one ounce of sea foam into my tank and did the driveway. As far as I am concerned my fuel system is now summerized. I still have to do my craftsman. I don't use fuel stabilizer until the end of the season. I have never had a carb go bad on any equipment in my care yet. I have had ethanol destroy seals, and taken in motors that needed carb cleaning.


----------



## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

I have a hard time buying into the Stabil. I definitely prefer to at least drain the carb. I don't mind gas going a little funky over the summer but don't want the varnish in the carb.


----------



## M1A2 Hahn (Feb 27, 2014)

My testimonial: I used a Honda mower for 19 seasons. Every fall, I drained the tank and then ran the carb. dry. Every spring, I put gas in the tank and it started. My mower loved me and I loved it. Now I pay someone, and my mower is retired, but our love remains.


----------



## pcfithian (Mar 3, 2014)

At the end of its season, each piece of my power equipment is run dry. 

I have never had a fuel related issue. My Lawn Boy was purchased new over 30 years ago and is still running strong.


----------



## ih8thepackers (Jan 4, 2014)

I'm gonna try something the local Ariens dealer told me to do,that is to run the tank empty,then put some of the pre-mixed 2 stroke fuel in the tank just enough to run the machine for a good 5 minutes,till it quits...and then your done.I use the premixed 2 stroke fuel in my leaf blower.it comes in either 40.1,or 50.1.in a metal can...I go through a couple a cans during the fall,blowing leaves.its easier then having a separate gas can for your 2 strokes, and having to mix it..


----------



## pcfithian (Mar 3, 2014)

Except for my snowblower, all of my other gasoline powered equipment is 2-stroke. I use Stihl High Performance oil in 50/1 mix. 

I have always used this mix in my snowblower as well with no issues whatsoever.


----------



## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

While I agree with Scipper, I once had my 13HP Tecumseh snowblower parked for two seasons with tank full but no Stabil. When I took it out it started on first pull. I was very surprised of that. The reason for this time delay was health related.

Take care all

Norm


----------

