# Friction wheel hub and shaft



## 137197 (Nov 12, 2019)

I’m usually fairly decent at tracking down old parts and what not. My grandfather’s John Deere TRS26 built in 1994 (I assume from the tecumseh number and machine serial number) has got me stumped. The friction wheel hub and shaft are stripped out. The machine has R, 1, 2 just barely and all other speeds are non existent. Any help locating the shaft, friction wheel and hub would be appreciated. Also is this a Murray or Ariens built blower?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Murray. Ariens made would have a D after.


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## 137197 (Nov 12, 2019)

That’s what I thought. Can anyone help me figure out how to search for a Murray part? Maybe a generic model number of the same vintage from a different manufacturer?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

That chain and hex shaft looks like it never saw any lube either.

You mean your grandfather God not have the manual for the parts breakdown?

You can not enter the info online to get a schematic?

I would think JD site would surely help you, but I don't own a Deere.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Well I own a Deere, lawn tractor that is. Here is a link to the parts diagram:https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/65988/referrer/navigation/pgId/17590817

Looks like the Friction wheel and some other parts have pricing and others have "see dealer". Did you "see dealer?". What did the dealer say? With the wheel available and the bearing and carrier available can the other stripped out parts be welded or somehow repaired? Metal can usually be fixed somehow.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Drive Disc Ariens Noma John Deere Laser Rotary Oregon 76-070-0 AM12355, M110594 $18.99 on EBay thats the friction disc
A lot of times when it say "See Dealer" that means they have to check to see if any warehouse might have it in stock as "New Old Stock".
It usually means new part is no longer readily available.
If you have a "5 Star" dealership near you, check them, they are usually good at getting old parts no longer in production and inventory.


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## 137197 (Nov 12, 2019)

I have tried a local equipment dealer that sells new JD products, but they said the shaft is obsolete. I’ve also tried the nearest JD dealer, but every time I call I get the same answer from the front desk “All of our parts people are with customers. Call back”. Suppose I can try a different dealer a few counties away.

No, I do not think he has ever lubricated those parts. He bought it used and it didn’t come with a manual. Worst case scenario, we replace the machine. I can’t imagine a TRS26 is worth much especially a broken one like this.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

You also may want to bring that to a local machine shop, as they can work wonders.

Another avenue you might consider is a local Technical School, if you have any in your area. They teach kids, and usually like a challenge to be presented to them. Usually that avenue is free, and they have all the equipment on hand to make just about anything.


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## 137197 (Nov 12, 2019)

I asked some farmers I know which dealer they use. Long story short, I can get the friction wheel and hub. The shaft is not available. The lady on the phone said she checked various warehouses. I’ve also tried to locate a used shaft, but no luck. Asked my grandpa about having the shaft repaired. He’s not too keen on the idea.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Type in Murray friction disk.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Truck Guy, Where are you located?? There is probably only 1 or 2 shafts that could fit that drivetrain and I may have it. They were Murray setups and sold under Murray, NOMA and DynaMark labels. Its kind of a tricky setup to R&R that unit, with the 2 parallel chains. One critical area to check is the chain alignments....... The chains should be fairly tight (not much slack) and parallel. If not, the chains crash each other, wheels lock up, chews up drive discs. That is all caused by a couple of broken welds DEEP inside that chassis. IF those check out OK, its worth putting a used shaft. If not, it's a major overhaul, labor of love, as it's a long tough troubling job. If you can get measurements, I can see what I have.

GLuck, Jay


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

A good machine shop could make the shaft for you, or like Oneacer suggested, take it to a local "Tech" school and they could make it, usually at a reduced cost.
Thank Oneacer for that, because that is a very good idea and it gives students a project to work on.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

What do you mean by stripped out? Is there a problem with the hex shaft or the hub of the friction wheel.? Or both? The pics don't really show us what is wrong.


As far as getting part numbers try calling Briggs and Stratton. If it is a Murray they may have something. I got an older manual with an exploded parts diagram included on an old Murray from them a few years ago. It was scanned in as a pdf and they emailed it to me. It took a few days but they did it. it is worth a shot.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

The hex on the shaft doesn't strip out too easily, maybe the threads on the ends of the shaft. About the only thing I could see is the shaft becoming pitted so bad that it would hang up the hub from sliding, and the hex on the hub becoming pitted, a hub seizing on the shaft or a bearing going bad in a hub and that could cause the little "tabs" to get damaged where it mounts to the shift fork.
Or possibly the little splines where the sprocket mounts to the hex shaft, then the sprocket would be damaged also.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

From the picture is shows the friction disk wheel is chewed up and it appears to be off center from the hex shaft. This may be an optical error. IDK. I can't imagine how a hex shaft would be damaged. The friction disk would slip before it could damage any part of it. It does appear rusty and the disk may not be sliding on it. You may be able to clean it up with some wd40 and a scotch bright pad. The Friction disk hub may be damaged beyond repair.



I would take it apart and to better understand what is damaged and to what extent. You can clean things up and determine what can be cleaned up to work and what needs to be replaced. You can also get good dimensions and source new parts better. I know it is hard sourcing Murray parts.
Good Luck!


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## 137197 (Nov 12, 2019)

Thanks for all of your replies, my grandfather decided he wants to get a newer machine. That JD is very heavy and difficult for him to maneuver. I will buy it from him and either try to repair that shaft myself or have a nice running tec engine on the shelf for later.


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

When you say it has R 1 and 2 and that is about it...are you saying you can only shift into those gears and it will not shift into the other gears or when you go into those other gears nothing happens????

If you can not shift into those other gears your Hex shaft is too rusted and needs to be lubed/Greased.


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## 137197 (Nov 12, 2019)

Okay, so literally the hex shaft is smooth. The hub that the friction wheel bolts to and slides back and forth to give you different speeds is hogged out. Back to my original question that no one answered. I have a JD blower. Murray built. DOES ANYONE HAVE A GENERIC MURRAY MODEL THAT USES THE SAME PARTS?


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

see post 11...... asked dimensions.... TWO DAYS AGO


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## 137197 (Nov 12, 2019)

Must have overlooked your post asking about the two different sizes, sorry. I made a trek to a large equipment dealer. We pulled the bottom pans in their junkyard for hours. Found a match and got the JD operational today. Again thank you to all of you and for your advice. I was getting frustrated and let it get the better of me. The picture is the model of spirit blower that delivered the goods. Had to buy the whole machine. $75. Got a good running 5 horse tec on the shelf now. The chassis is shot and it’s on the curb for the scrap guy.


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## bbwb (Oct 25, 2018)

I had that blower...I might have the parts and service manual in my stack of stuff. I will take a look tomorrow and will let you know.
Robert


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