# Roper 11-32



## johnd393 (Sep 21, 2012)

I just bought a used Roper 11-32 snow blower from a craigslist seller for $75.
It's has a Briggs 11hp engine, electric start, and a 32" auger. Seller said it was bought at Sears. The tag says model S1749AR. A search for S1749AR finds absolutely nothing. Engine code says manufactured in 1979. I had to clean the carb to get it running. Now runs fine.
I can't find any much online for this model. I did find a manual for a 8-26 that looks like a similar design. Anybody familiar with Roper snowblowers?
John


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## johnd393 (Sep 21, 2012)

Here's a pix of the drive parts in case anyone might recognize it as similar to another make.


I couldn't figure out how to edit the first post to add the picture.
John


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Roper blower*

John

First off, welcome to the forum. 

On the question on your blower's history etc, I have what I believe is a Roper Designed, Murray built, Craftsman labeled blower. It's labeled as a model 536.90515 - 7 HP 24". 








It was in what I'd call poor shape when I got it. There were a number of missing parts when I got it and had to make. They were all relating to the tensioning of the friction wheel to the plate, the former owner had removed some of those pieces and misplaced them. I was able to get all the other normal wear parts were available through Sears with one exception. That one item was the friction disc - even that can be handled. Mine was a close match to a Toro 6", open the center hole a little on a metal lathe and redrill the mounting holes and you're back in business.

Hope that gives you something to think on, that's a good looking blower there.

Paul


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## johnd393 (Sep 21, 2012)

Nice job you did on that.
Right now everything is functioning . The belts and 2 idler pulleys appear well advanced into their service life. I may just take the belts off and match them up with some new ones. There is a switch missing that must have been a key switch. Closing the throttle grounds the same wire to shut it down, so I just removed the wire that was dangling for the missing switch. There's no switch for the light, if it's running, the lights on. The 8-24 manual, I found, has the same part number for both idler pulleys, but mine are different sizes. If I take the pulleys off to get the belts off I'll take a bunch of measurements so I can match them up with replacements. The friction disk part number in that manual does not crossref to anything available. I found one online that looks like it, but there's no way to tell if it will actually fit. They give an OD 6" and ID 3" that looks right and it appears to have the right bolt holes. The disk looks ok anyway. I have lubed everything except, I should check the gear oil in the auger differential.
I'm into this thing cus I just got it and had to work on it to get it running, but my other snowblower, an old MTD 5HP 24" 2 stage, has been working for 30 years and all I've done is cleaned the carb a few times. It has all the original parts, even the oil, and It keeps on working.


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## Mx-med (Feb 13, 2013)

I was given an 11-32 roper from a neibour. I had to replace the auger gear before it would throw anything heavier than powder but now it runs great. A little after firing with a bad muffler so it shoots flame about 3 feet once its good and hot. The muffler glows red hot and on rare occasions it back fires. It did that one day and blew the round cover off the back of the air intake. A little tuck tape fixed it as I never saw the disk again. Aside from those quirks it's a great machine. Up untill tonight when the drive stopped working. The belt is fine the idler is tensioning properly. The chains are intact but there is a break in the shaft between the drive chain to the wheels and the input chain from the engine. There appears to be some sort of throw out that connects them but that seems no to be lining up or moving any ideas.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Welcome to the forum.
On your red-hot muffler and backfiring, that typically is due to the engine running lean. Assuming you have a Tecumseh engine, there should be an adjustable jet on the bottom of the carb bowl that is your high speed jet. The starting point is around 1 full turn open. Once there, I run the engine wide open and adjust it to find where it starts losing rpms both opening the jet up and closing it. Wherever that is, I split the difference and that seems to be the sweet spot.
Don't know on the shaft issue, might be able to get another one or make one depending on the configuration of it. Pictures would help and I'd suggest you start your own thread on it to get the most help.


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

HCBPH, when you say one full turn open...by that you mean you tighten it up all the way....righty tighty and then back it of lefty loosey 1 full turn...correct!!!


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

johnd393,

Can you take a pic of the label/metal tag on the back of your blower and post it?? Many Dankas!!


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Simplicity Solid 22 said:


> HCBPH, when you say one full turn open...by that you mean you tighten it up all the way....righty tighty and then back it of lefty loosey 1 full turn...correct!!!


DON'T overtighten it! Just let it bottom out and then open it one full turn. After that follow instructions given by HCBPH.


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Gord Hobson said:


> Hello johnd393,
> My name is Gord and I have owned a Roper 11-32 for the last 30 years or so. The unit is still going strong. I have in my posession an Original owners-service manual.
> If you need original part numbers or whatever drop a line or email me at
> [email protected]
> ...


Welcome to the forum Gord. Your first post and you're helping folks already. . You'll do well here! That's what we're all about.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

HCBPH said:


> Welcome to the forum.
> On your red-hot muffler and backfiring, that typically is due to the engine running lean. Assuming you have a Tecumseh engine, there should be an adjustable jet on the bottom of the carb bowl that is your high speed jet. The starting point is around 1 full turn open. Once there, I run the engine wide open and adjust it to find where it starts losing rpms both opening the jet up and closing it. Wherever that is, I split the difference and that seems to be the sweet spot.
> Don't know on the shaft issue, might be able to get another one or make one depending on the configuration of it. Pictures would help and I'd suggest you start your own thread on it to get the most help.


Yes, Red hot muffler means too lean. *However an occasional backfire when decelerating the engine quickly could be from exhaust valve and combustion chamber carbon deposits when the muffler is not over heating.* What happens is sizable carbon deposit gets hot and retains heat in the combustion chamber and acts like another ignition source. When decelerating quickly the engine is still drawing in fuel vapor and the carbon can ignite it causing a popping backfire from the muffler. I pulled the head on my Briggs 8hp and cleaned the valves and piston with carb cleaner and a soft brass brush. I also used the shop vac to clean up any debris left by the cleaning and I also used Sea Foam Deep Creep to clean the varnish and sludge from the piston rings and groove and oil ring. While pulling the head check the condition of the cylinder bore. It should be nice and smooth with no deep scratches or gashes in it. In fact anything deeper than would catch your fingernail is too deep and could mean rebuild time. Sometime a fresh hone and new rings will fix this other times you will need to over bore it and new piston and rings too.
Adjust the carb richer by turning screw counter clockwise until engine stops backfiring keep going until it begins to load up and then go just a bit leaner leaner until it clears. *Best performance is where the engine fuel air mixture is just rich enough with out going too rich*. Remember too as temperatures drop outside the air gets denser and typically for every 40 to 50 degree drop in temp you should go up 1 jet size. So having it run great at 70 degrees may mean too lean at zero degrees Fahrenheit and colder. So on a non adjustable carburetor your blower will tend to run pig rich during a hot day in the summer months but just right when you need it when it is cold outside.
One thing I noticed about the L-head style engines is they tend to get carboned up more than the newer OHV engines since the valves are located in the block and off to the side of the combustion chamber rather then centered right over it as on an OHV. This makes slightly cooler than the valves on an OHV and more prone to carbon deposits and carbon if allowed to accumulate can cause some poor running characteristics


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## johnd393 (Sep 21, 2012)

I've not been here in a while and another snow season is approaching. I had not seen some of the replies till now. There was a request for a pix of the tag. Sorry it took so long.


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## johnd393 (Sep 21, 2012)

One thing I noticed with this snowblower is compared to my old MTD 24" it has more of a tendency to ride up on the snow, like it needs more weight in front.
No significant snow yet this season in Northwest Indiana.


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