# 2017 Ariens 921 Deluxe 28 with an Aluminum gearbox?



## phy6 (Oct 4, 2021)

Hi, first post on this forum. I came across a Ariens 921 Deluxe 28 for sale, but it seems to have an aluminum gear box. It seems like most models before and after 2017 have the black painted cast iron gearboxes, so what could be going on here? I'm guessing it's a 2017 because that when the seller said she bought it. It's got the older grey engine cover on it too. It doesn't start because of carb issues, probably gummed up.

Is this a model to avoid? She's asking $400 and the paint inside looks unscratched. I'm going to go see it tomorrow morning.


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## phy6 (Oct 4, 2021)

Looking through google images, the light on the right side seems like the tell-tale. It seems to be a 921022 similar to this one from the 2011 era: Recommendations for an Ariens Rookie...


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Just replied to your question about the one I sold, check the serial number, if it's the same year/model as the one I sold I would tell you to move on. It has a "turn assist" that does not work well, just my opinion of course.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just my opinion, but that machine looks incredibly well taken care of, with little run time ... If everything is in working order, I would say well worth the 400.00.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

I have that gear box and there is nothing wrong with it. While the case was made out of aluminum, it is thick and the gears inside it were made out of steel. It won't rust and help cooling down better.

The only thing that I don't like about it is that it is more bulky.

They just went back and forth with cast iron gear cases and used that as a selling point.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

its not a 2017 or it would have auto turn and the better gearbox
thats older


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

not worth 400 if it doesnt star
you can do better that is under powered for the ploe pile for any real snow
28 sho used for 800 is the best blower on the market for the money
unless you live some place that gets very little snow
buy 1 time do it right


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

That machine is around 10 years old, but looks to be in great condition, probably seen little use over the years. 

Chances are a thorough carb clean or a new carb and fuel system flush will sort out the non running issue, but it is still a slight gamble.

You may be able to negotiate a better price as it is doesn't run and is approx. 10 years old.

What do similar 2015 or newer Ariens sell for in your area? The Auto Turn steering is worth some extra $ IMHO.


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## phy6 (Oct 4, 2021)

Northeast Dave said:


> Just replied to your question about the one I sold, check the serial number, if it's the same year/model as the one I sold I would tell you to move on. It has a "turn assist" that does not work well, just my opinion of course.


Thanks Northeast Dave. I just discovered that steering system late last night, saw a video on it. I guess that means it wants you to turn in the same direction every time you have to, since it only disengages one wheel?


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## phy6 (Oct 4, 2021)

Ziggy65 said:


> That machine is around 10 years old, but looks to be in great condition, probably seen little use over the years.
> 
> Chances are a thorough carb clean or a new carb and fuel system flush will sort out the non running issue, but it is still a slight gamble.
> 
> ...


Thanks, yeah I'm more put-off by the year story not lining up. I'll see it in person in a couple hours. 

Around me, the newer Ariens seem like more $, no one lists the year on these things.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Seems quite common for people to think/advertise that they bought the machine 4 or 5 years ago and in reality it was 8 or 10 years. Perhaps they bought it used in 2017?

If you are only looking to spend $300 -400.00, this machine could be a decent buy. Appears newer machines with auto turn that people are asking roughly double that price range judging buy the machines you posted.

The ST824 looks like it could be a great deal at $100.00 depending on condition and personal inspection. With any used machine a thorough in person inspection is needed before purchasing.

Good luck with your search


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if it just needs a new carb for $400 it is likely a pretty good deal. look at what similar machines go for new which is why you see so many people asking about $800. it is about 1/2 what they are new. $400 is half that so even if you have to spend a bit of money on it you should still be into it for less than the $800+ most are going for.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@phy,

The year is not an issue .... it is all about quality, condition, operation, etc ...

I have units 50 years old in mint condition, and have seen units 2 years old that have been totally trashed ...


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

The age of a machine does effect the value some. You can have a super clean or fully restored machine old machine but realisticly they are only worth what people are willing to pay for a old machine. I know I usually won't pay much for a older machine with a flat head engine but would consider paying a bit more for something slightly newer with a OHV engine. Newer stuff is also sometimes easier to get parts for compared to the old stuff


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Anything for sale is only worth what someone is going to pay ... A piece of property is in the eye of the beholder for worth.

I have paid for something old and been gifted something new ... its all just really relative to the individuals involved ...


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

and when it comes to snowblowers most of the time older blowers are worthless to most people. i have seen many sit for sale for $100-200 mainly for the fact they are old even if they are very clean looking machines. most people just want newer machines. also parts availability on some older machines is not very good and just getting worse as time goes on. heck some shops won't even touch a old machine because they know it sometimes cost more than they are worth to repair especially if parts availability is very limited for the machine


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

Oneacer said:


> @phy,
> 
> The year is not an issue .... it is all about quality, condition, operation, etc ...
> 
> I have units 50 years old in mint condition, and have seen units 2 years old that have been totally trashed ...


I second that.

It is a good snow blower for that kind of money. You don't always need more power from the deluxe sho. The only reason why she is selling it, because she doesn't know how to fix and maintenance it.

People list those snow blowers around $500 around here (off-season only, hard to find them around this time), including the newer ones with auto-turn. The auto-turn feature would add value to it, but if you care about reliability and trouble free, then solid axle would be better for you. It is just a trade-off, but not all people see it that way.

$400 is not a bad price, but you can go lower.

$300 is low ball to me, but it depends on where you live and things like that. If it only worth $300, then I would rather keep it. It's not much different from the newer models.

You just have to make sure that is is only a dirty carb.


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## phy6 (Oct 4, 2021)

Thanks everyone, I bought it for $380. Sellers son was able to demonstrate it wanted to run with a little starter fluid I brought with me. It wanted to run on the first pull. Only thing that had ever broken mechanically was one of the shear pins, which had been replaced. The son confirmed they probably owned it before 2017, it was ordered from a local small engine dealer that sells Kubotas.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Looks awesome.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

looks good. it is definitely older since it doesn't have auto steer. that has the axle lock system which is what the trigger on the left handle is. google is showing it as a possible 2013 model. still a pretty decent deal if all it needs is carb work.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

You got yourself a nice unit there .... Enjoy


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Well bought, it will clean up like new. 

As mentioned try cleaning the carb and fuel tank and lines, add fresh fuel, check plug (clean or replace, and gap it) and I bet it will fire right up.

Give it a bath, oil change and lube, check tire pressure etc. as per owners manual and you will be ready for winter.

Many threads on the forum and You Tube videos detailing the above maintenance.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

And dont forget to give it a nice coat of a good wax everywhere ,,, it will look good and protect it well.


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## phy6 (Oct 4, 2021)

Tried cleaning the carb today with little luck. There was definitely some gumming up of components like the throttle plate and main jet screw that holds the bowl on. Drained all the old gas that looked like apple juice. Put in some newer clear gas.

Would start fine with starter fluid, but didn't seem to be getting fuel through the carb.

Specs:

1 Champion Spark Plug RC12YC

250CC engine, family ABSXS.2502SC 279384

Engine Model 
15C1 34 0143 E8
15C134-0143-E8

Serial Number
10 1021 88 24458

Assumed Date code 10102188
594014 Carburetor Used Before Code Date 11080800

594015 Used After Code Date 11080700


Ordered 594014 on 10/8/21 for $22usd from Amazon to have as a backup, who knows when chinese product costs are going to go way up.

I'll try to clean the carb again tomorrow, I hear putting piano wire/twisty tie wire through the holes in the "main jet" screw can solve the kind of problems I'm seeing.


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## phy6 (Oct 4, 2021)

the 795840 number stamped on the carb doesn't get me many leads. I used the engine model number instead to look up carb part numbers on jackssmallengines.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just put on the adjustable new one ...... Usually there set up fine out of the box, but may require tweaking.

I hope you cleaned out the tank, lines and any shutoff, and the cap is vented properly . Many times the line needs replacing. I'm sure you took photos for reassembly.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

on this thing the bolt that hold the float bowl on is not the main jet. the main jet is above that. you may want to make sure the main jet and emulsion tube about it are clear. i like to use telephone wire for this job but you could also use twist ties if you strip or burn the plastic off them.


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## phy6 (Oct 4, 2021)

crazzywolfie said:


> on this thing the bolt that hold the float bowl on is not the main jet. the main jet is above that. you may want to make sure the main jet and emulsion tube about it are clear. i like to use telephone wire for this job but you could also use twist ties if you strip or burn the plastic off them.


Yeah, I didn't want to call it the main jet, but that's what they were calling it on the Briggs and Stratton sites, like part number 118E here. I thought it was just for draining the bowl, and the jet would be up inside the hole.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

it looks like you did very well.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

On that series of engines the bowl nut is also the main jet. Spray and clear the center hole with your wire. You should be able to spray carb cleaner with straw nozzle down the center hole and have it flow freely out the 2 side holes.On the choke side face of the carb you should see 2 air bleeds, spray those and chase them with wire. The emulsion tube should screw out of the center stalk also, clear all the holes in that. That style is very basic and easy to clean,you should be able to get it running. Be glad you don't have the Nikki style found on the bigger series Briggs.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

@phy6 please see attached 3 PDF pages which could prove to be helpful.


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## quexpress (Dec 25, 2013)

I'm not sure if this link contains anything related to your carburetor.

_Briggs and Stratton Carburetor Cleaning and Repair - Detailed photos and descriptions_


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

Theirs two things I like about those slightly older modern Ariens, 1, it has a Briggs engine instead an LCT, all the new ones have LCT's now except the Pro models, 2 instead of autoturn, it has the trigger release turn, if that works well, I would rather have a mechanism that locks the machine straight and turns when you pull the trigger. A lot of people complain the autoturn units don't hold a straight line well. So if that setup works good, I would rather have that. I know one person mentioned he didn't like the way it worked. I never operated either of those units, so I cant say from experience, but I would rather control it than it be automatic. Lastly since it had a Briggs engine, you can very easily identify what year that machine is. Look on the valve cover of the engine, that's usually where it is, or the metal tin on the back, look for the model, type, code, look specifically at the code, the code is the date of manufacture. Here is an example of a Briggs Code, 1002119. First two digits are the year, second two digits are the month, last, next two set of digits are the day of month. The last number or numbers after that are the plant and assembly line, so in that instance it will be D.O.M. February 11th, 2010. So you will know the machine is from 2010. Unless the date is very early or the date is very late in the year, than its possible the machine could be an 09 or 11 for example, but usually the engine year will also be the year of the machine. Look at your engines code and you will find out what year it is. Cheers, enjoy your new machine.


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