# Sticky  Upgrading your snowblower lights to LED lights (Please see 1st post edit/mouseover this link)



## superedge88

*[Edit: LED technology has improved exponentially since this thread was started. Be aware that earlier posts may be somewhat outdated, and that you will most likely find the most recent and pertinent information in later updates. Y.R.]*

In this thread, we'll talk about the do's and don'ts of LED headlight upgrades for your snowblower, and post videos and pictures of our successes.
There are many models of snowblowers that have a headlight circuit, In most cases, you can find a single wire that registers at anywhere from 12v to 20v AC (with no load) that is located somewhere on the engine, many times under the gas tank. Halogen lights are the typical light that comes with many of our snowblowers. Many of us want much more light than what the halogen bulb can give us, as well as better reliability than a halogen bulb. The search for something brighter and more reliable ends with the LED light. LED's (Light Emitting Diodes) are extremely efficient, very bright, and have thousands of hours of reliable use.
Since the lighting circuit is typically AC current at somewhere between 40-60hertz, if you just attach an LED light to the circuit you'll get pulsing light (think on and off 40-60 times a second) This is caused by the nature of an LED, because an LED is polarity sensitive, and has no warm-up or cool down time when compared to a halogen bulb filament, the LED will flicker noticeably. The flickering of an LED on AC current is mildly annoying to many people, but VERY annoying when you are attaching it to a moving object like a snowblower. An LED that is in motion when attached to AC current (for reasons I won't even begin to get into) flickers much more noticeably. To test this for yourself, take a strand of LED Christmas lights, plug them in, and then swing them in front of you at arm's length, you'll see a strobing or flickering effect.
You can see many LED headlight upgrade videos on youtube like this one, where you can definitely see the flickering or strobing of the LED's. You can see the effect the flicker has on the video camera, you get weird tracks that go from top to bottom of the video frame.
*1. EXAMPLE OF IMPROPER LED LIGHT INSTALL- NOTICE THE FLICKERING*




*2. EXAMPLE OF YET AGAIN AN IMPROPER LED LIGHT INSTALL- NOTICE THE FLICKERING*




 *This is what it looks like once you add a bridge rectifier, even though you’ll see a tiny bit of flicker in the video, in person there is none, you also can notice that there is no “tracking” effect like in the other videos.*





The problem of light flicker is solved by using a full wave bridge rectifier.

A bridge rectifier takes AC current and changes it into DC current using 4 diodes.

By connecting the positive and negative from your LED light(s) to the DC output of your bridge rectifier, and then connecting your single headlight circuit wire to one of the AC inputs of the bridge rectifier (it doesn't matter which AC input) and then attaching a wire from the metal of your snowblower to the other AC input you will have light! For safety purposes, it is recommended that you place a fuse on the headlight circuit wire before the bridge rectifier which should be about 5 amps rated fast blow, and then a fuse on the positive wiring between your bridge rectifier and your LED light that should be about ~1amp fast blow fuses. These fuse ratings are assuming you are using a headlight circuit that is rated for ~1amp at about 18volts, some headlight circuits are rated for 2, 3, or more amps, so using an amperage calculator like this one can help with both your LED light selection and your fuse selection. *Volts/Amps/Watts Converter*
Here's a pic of how I installed my bridge rectifier, I mounted it right next to my keyed switch that is on my handlebar console. I also used heat sink paste to couple the bridge rectifier’s metal casing to the console’s metal. I know this is way overkill, but my bridge rectifier came with the paste, and it was an easy application of some paste. The bridge rectifier I used is rated at 50amps 100volts *KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier | Alltronics*

*UPDATE: Using two 2200mfd 50v capacitors may be needed to clean up the voltage ripple that comes off of the DC output on your bridge rectifier. Some LED lights are sensitive to this ripple and may fail prematurely. Simply adding these capacitors in parallel on the DC output side of the bridge rectifier is a good precaution.* *Wire in the Capacitor(s) between the LED light(s) and the bridge rectifier. So the positive and negative of the bridge rectifier will go to the positive and negative of the capacitor. Then the positive and negative of the capacitor then get wired to the LED(s) positive and negative.*

When choosing your LED lighting you typically have spotlights or flood lights available. Spotlights have a more pinpoint dispersion with very little side spill of light. Flood lights illuminate a wider area, and with the short distances (from LED light to relevant distance in front of your snowblower) you’ll want as wide dispersion as possible, or else you’ll get a tiny area in front of you illuminated. I made sure to get floodlights that were rated for voltage below what my snowblower headlight circuit tests at and above, so being that my snowblower headlight circuit tests at 18volts I picked a set of LED floodlights that were rated for 9-32 volts. I wanted to make sure that I would never be putting the floodlights in danger with whatever voltage the headlight circuit was producing, even a small voltage peak is accounted for. The floodlights I chose are 9 watts each, which is as much as my headlight circuit is rated for.
For those that appreciate a short(ish) video with some basic points noted here is a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZwebMaiyBY


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## TimY

Edge,
WOW what a great thread!! This is exactly what I was looking for and couldn't find when I came to SBF. Would've saved a lot of aspirin. Not to mention dog and cat food 
One thing I would reiterate choose your fixtures with the widest possible voltage range I have seen some suggest using a landscape type light which if you were using a 12 vdc battery would be fine. but a stator by it's nature can be very variable.
There are many auto type flood work LED light in the $15 to $30 range that meet the criteria stated. Rectifiers average $3-$5 fuse holders and fuse $5 switches $2-$7 with some 14 gauge you probably have laying around anyway you have for the same amount you'd spend on a cheap anemic after market light a much improved highly improved safer light that's actually useful. Tim


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## superedge88

Here's a successful install by JRHAWK on his Ariens Pro 32, great job!


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## Shryp

I made this thread a sticky. I don't see a way to allow other users to edit though. I can put an email in to a site admin and see if he can change it.


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## superedge88




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## Garnetmica

Great work and excellent information Superedge! Nice contribution!


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## darcy32171

Thumbs up!!!!


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## darcy32171

So when out and about searching for everything...: Does it matter what Bridge Rectifier??? I hate looking like a dummy when asked at the store lol. Then they(store clerk) says "Whats it for" and I say "snowblower" then they say "Pfft, we don`t handle that stuff, go to a snowblower shop" lol. Are there any certain ones I need? Mine is a 18v system if that matters any.


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## superedge88

darcy32171 said:


> So when out and about searching for everything...: Does it matter what Bridge Rectifier??? I hate looking like a dummy when asked at the store lol. Then they(store clerk) says "Whats it for" and I say "snowblower" then they say "Pfft, we don`t handle that stuff, go to a snowblower shop" lol. Are there any certain ones I need? Mine is a 18v system if that matters any.


I used a 50 amp 1000 volt bridge rectifier, here is a link to it. 
KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier | Alltronics


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## Blue Hill

Great tutorial Superedge. Very well done.


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## dbert

darcy32171 said:


> So when out and about searching for everything...: Does it matter what Bridge Rectifier??? I hate looking like a dummy when asked at the store lol. Then they(store clerk) says "Whats it for" and I say "snowblower" then they say "Pfft, we don`t handle that stuff, go to a snowblower shop" lol. Are there any certain ones I need? Mine is a 18v system if that matters any.


SE88
Thanks for this thread
I don't have a blower with an AC system, so I am just asking a couple questions on behalf of those that may.

Would one of these from my neighborhood Radio Shack work? Assuming the purchaser has the soldering skills to connect the four wires!
bridge rectifier at radio shack

Also
How much heat do you figure they make while rectifying say just 3 amps? Do you think it would fry it without any heatsink attached?


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## superedge88

dbert said:


> SE88
> Thanks for this thread
> I don't have a blower with an AC system, so I am just asking a couple questions on behalf of those that may.
> 
> Would one of these from my neighborhood Radio Shack work? Assuming the purchaser has the soldering skills to connect the four wires!
> bridge rectifier at radio shack
> 
> Also
> How much heat do you figure they make while rectifying say just 3 amps? Do you think it would fry it without any heatsink attached?


That bridge rectifier should work great! I found that there wasn't much price difference at all to go with the higher rated one that I described in the first post. I think that there is no heat sinking required until you get near half the rating of the rectifier, but that is just from my personal experience and I have no idea what the manufacturer suggests.


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## JRHAWK9

I got everything mounted and wired up last night. Man, those little 10W CREE LED's are BRIGHT!! Makes my stock headlight seem like a dimly lit candle in comparison. 

I now have another reason why I kept the stock headlight provision. When I go to blow out our neighbors driveway I have to walk the blower an 1/8th mile down a narrow, rural, unlit road. When I do this at night I'm going to have to use the stock headlight, as my CREE's are just too bright for oncoming cars and may blind them. 

I will try to take some photos and post them here.

BTW, I have my AC input lead (to the rectifier) fused at only 2amps and it seems to be holding up just fine. The rectifier DC output voltage is right around 16.5V at WOT (~3,750rpms) 

Below are what parts I'm using:

- 1000 Volt Bridge Rectifier 50 Amp 50 A Metal Case 1000V 50A Diode Bridge | eBay

- 2pc 10W LED CREE Spot Head Light Off Road Beam for Car Jeep Veicle ATV UTV SUV | eBay

- 3 x Mini Fuse Holder with 16 Gauge Inline Wire Weather Proof Design | eBay

- Heavy Duty SPDT Toggle Switch 20 Amps 125VAC on Off On | eBay



I also picked up another pair of flood lights. I currently like the way my 30° spots work but may swap one to a flood to see which one I like better. 

- 2X10W CREE LED Flood Work Light LED Offroad Car Boat Vehicle Jeep Truck Bike ATV | eBay


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## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> I got everything mounted and wired up last night. Man, those little 10W CREE LED's are BRIGHT!! Makes my stock headlight seem like a dimly lit candle in comparison.
> 
> I now have another reason why I kept the stock headlight provision. When I go to blow out our neighbors driveway I have to walk the blower an 1/8th mile down a narrow, rural, unlit road. When I do this at night I'm going to have to use the stock headlight, as my CREE's are just too bright for oncoming cars and may blind them.
> 
> I will try to take some photos and post them here.
> 
> BTW, I have my AC input lead (to the rectifier) fused at only 2amps and it seems to be holding up just fine. The rectifier DC output voltage is right around 16.5V at WOT (~3,750rpms)
> 
> Below are what parts I'm using:
> 
> - 1000 Volt Bridge Rectifier 50 Amp 50 A Metal Case 1000V 50A Diode Bridge | eBay
> 
> - 2pc 10W LED CREE Spot Head Light Off Road Beam for Car Jeep Veicle ATV UTV SUV | eBay
> 
> - 3 x Mini Fuse Holder with 16 Gauge Inline Wire Weather Proof Design | eBay
> 
> - Heavy Duty SPDT Toggle Switch 20 Amps 125VAC on Off On | eBay
> 
> 
> 
> I also picked up another pair of flood lights. I currently like the way my 30° spots work but may swap one to a flood to see which one I like better.
> 
> - 2X10W CREE LED Flood Work Light LED Offroad Car Boat Vehicle Jeep Truck Bike ATV | eBay


Good to hear that your work is paying off! Let us know how things go!


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## darcy32171

Whats with the three fuses? Would you only need one in-between the yellow wire and rectifier? How did you wire up the three.
Let me get this straight cause I have noticed lots of chatter on the 10 watt LEDS: If I end up in the city and see a bunch of LED lights (flood or spot) as long as they are 10 watt, I`m good to go?


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## TimY

Darcy,
I think he just got them at a package deal maybe. se88 suggested a fuse before and after
the rectifier just to be safe when we were going on about this I ran a 3amp auto fuse after the rectifier on the + dc side just to test (no load) nothing blew up. But it probably wouldn't hurt to have two, fuses are cheap.


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## TimY

Dah read previous posts he's running his stock lights also a switching between the two so he put on three


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## JRHAWK9

I'm running one fuse (2 amp) on my AC line from the stator to the rectifier and I also have each LED fused. I have 2 amp fuses there too, solely because they didn't have 1 amp ones.

I have things wired up to add a second pair to be switched as "high beams".....lol I will have LED flood lights as my normal and then a pair of LED 30° spots as my "high beams". When I have all four LED's on I will not be using my hand warmers, which I hardly ever use anyway.

Below is a video I just took demonstrating the two LED 30° spots installed and comparing them to the stock headlight.






.


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## Blue Hill

Wow Hawk, the difference is amazing!


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## JRHAWK9

So, I have my two sets of LED's wired up so one set is on with one switch and the other set is turned on separately with another switch. That part works great. What I find strange is when I meter the voltage on the AC line coming out of the stator it seems to INCREASE voltage when I turn the LED's  on?! lol IE, it reads 15.5V or so with NO load. Turn on the stock light and it will drop to 14.xV....then turn on the handwarmers while leaving the stock light on and it will drop to 13.xV.

Now, if I turn on the first set of LED's it goes up to like 16.xV, add the second pair and it goes up to 17.xV. If I leave all four on and then turn on the handwarmers it will drop to 14-15V IIRC. I was measuring the voltage drop because I wanted to compare it to the stock stuff. I was surprised to see what I saw.

Can any of you electrical gurus explain what I seeing?


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## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> So, I have my two sets of LED's wired up so one set is on with one switch and the other set is turned on separately with another switch. That part works great. What I find strange is when I meter the voltage on the AC line coming out of the stator it seems to INCREASE voltage when I turn the LED's on?! lol IE, it reads 15.5V or so with NO load. Turn on the stock light and it will drop to 14.xV....then turn on the handwarmers while leaving the stock light on and it will drop to 13.xV.
> 
> Now, if I turn on the first set of LED's it goes up to like 16.xV, add the second pair and it goes up to 17.xV. If I leave all four on and then turn on the handwarmers it will drop to 14-15V IIRC. I was measuring the voltage drop because I wanted to compare it to the stock stuff. I was surprised to see what I saw.
> 
> Can any of you electrical gurus explain what I seeing?


That's an interesting question. Completely counter intuitive, I'm curious as well.


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## jobes

Any photos yet of this setup? I'd like to try it but I'm going to need something to follow.


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## darcy32171

I have a problem lol. Today I bought the LED light and the bridge rectifier. On the bridge rectifier on one side it has a (+) on the left and a (wavy line) on the right. The wavy line spade terminal is facing the same as all the others, but that (+) one is the only different one. How does this wire up?


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## superedge88

darcy32171 said:


> I have a problem lol. Today I bought the LED light and the bridge rectifier. On the bridge rectifier on one side it has a (+) on the left and a (wavy line) on the right. The wavy line spade terminal is facing the same as all the others, but that (+) one is the only different one. How does this wire up?


The terminal that is Kitty corner from the + terminal is the negative for DC output . The terminal Kitty corner from the wave is the other AC terminal. ~ means AC. Does that make sense? In the first post there's a diagram of how it's wired

Let me know if more clarification is needed.


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## superedge88

jobes said:


> Any photos yet of this setup? I'd like to try it but I'm going to need something to follow.


Please let me know what would be more helpful, and I can clarify it in the first post. Is there anything specific that doesn't make sense?


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## darcy32171

OK I get it, but to the right of the + sign is the AC symbol (Wavy line). Is this the AC+ or AC- ?


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## JRHAWK9

darcy32171 said:


> OK I get it, but to the right of the + sign is the AC symbol (Wavy line). Is this the AC+ or AC- ?


AC is just that, Alternating Current......there is no (+) or (-) relatively speaking because it alternates as a sine wive.

You can connect your AC line to any of those two, the other either goes to ground or connects to the other AC line.


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## darcy32171

JRHAWK9 said:


> AC is just that, Alternating Current......there is no (+) or (-) relatively speaking because it alternates as a sine wive.
> 
> You can connect your AC line to any of those two, the other either goes to ground or connects to the other AC line.


 What happens to the DC- terminal? This is where the black light wire goes, but where does it get its ground from?


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## JRHAWK9

darcy32171 said:


> What happens to the DC- terminal? This is where the black light wire goes, but where does it get its ground from?


Just look at superedge88's photo above. The DC (+) and DC (-) are kiddy corner from each other, as are the two AC leads.


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## darcy32171

0:30 - 1:04. That makes it a little simpler!


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## superedge88

darcy32171 said:


> What happens to the DC- terminal? This is where the black light wire goes, but where does it get its ground from?


There is no "ground " in DC current, just positive and negative.


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## jobes

The video helps on the rectifier side. Is this going into a weather proof box then? Man I wish this came as a kit I'd buy it.... anyone?


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## JRHAWK9

It is weather proof....the diodes are completely protected from the elements inside the aluminum housing.


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## darcy32171

Whoo hoo can`t wait till dark!!!! I took my cab off for tonight, I`m thinking with it on will distort the light and also blind me in the process!!


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## darcy32171

Up here in Canada (at least the city I was in: Regina,Sask) the rectifier was $7. The light on the other hand was the cheapest I found in that size and it was expensive by my books: $100. I just look at it this way: If I sell the blower, I`ll take all of it off and save it for my next one or maybe use the light on my 4x4


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## superedge88

darcy32171 said:


> Whoo hoo can`t wait till dark!!!! I took my cab off for tonight, I`m thinking with it on will distort the light and also blind me in the process!!


That's great to hear! We're gonna need some night pics!


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## superedge88

darcy32171 said:


> Up here in Canada (at least the city I was in: Regina,Sask) the rectifier was $7. The light on the other hand was the cheapest I found in that size and it was expensive by my books: $100. I just look at it this way: If I sell the blower, I`ll take all of it off and save it for my next one or maybe use the light on my 4x4


Wow, that is expensive for the light! What are the specs of the light?


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## darcy32171

superedge88 said:


> That's great to hear! We're gonna need some night pics!


 Can do!!! I`ll post them up later this evening!!!Thanks guys


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## JRHAWK9

darcy32171 said:


> The light on the other hand was the cheapest I found in that size and it was expensive by my books: $100.




Did you look online?? You can pick up some super intense CREE LED's for a LOT less than that.


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## darcy32171

superedge88 said:


> Wow, that is expensive for the light! What are the specs of the light?


 It is a Power Fist brand.
12v, 1W LED.
It is a 7 LED light.


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## darcy32171

The place I bought the rectifier said it could possibly order Cree lights, but I would need a product number. I can always run this one back, just bought it yesterday, but I`d need to know how long to get the other. Don`t like ordering online, stuff gets all bunged up at the border and 3 months later I get my stuff


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## JRHAWK9

hate to say it, but I'm going to take a guess here and say it won't put out the lumens you are hoping for.


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## superedge88

darcy32171 said:


> The place I bought the rectifier said it could possibly order Cree lights, but I would need a product number. I can always run this one back, just bought it yesterday, but I`d need to know how long to get the other. Don`t like ordering online, stuff gets all bunged up at the border and 3 months later I get my stuff


Does it look brighter than your original light? Do you know how many amps your headlight circuit can handle? What was the original light wattage?
* edit * I missed your post that said that the led light is 1 Watt, definitely won't be bright enough.


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## darcy32171

superedge88 said:


> Does it look brighter than your original light? Do you know how many amps your headlight circuit can handle? What was the original light wattage?
> * edit * I missed your post that said that the led light is 1 Watt, definitely won't be bright enough.


 Am I misundestanding? I thought it was 1 watt x 7 since there was 7 LED`s. I had thought since everyone had mentioned to go 10 watts total, I would be safe. 
My system runs 18v at full throttle not under a load. It had a stupid utility light with a 26 watt bulb (all I could find to replace the 38 watt bulb that was in it from previous owner). It was as bright as a candle lol. 
This LED is quite bright and hurts the eyes if you happen to look directly at it.


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## darcy32171

You guys are running 20 watts total with both lights wired in?


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## superedge88

darcy32171 said:


> You guys are running 20 watts total with both lights wired in?


Sounds like you could have gone with at least an 18 Watt led flood light or two 9 watt led flood lights and still be well within your headlight circuit amperage rating. See how your light does at night and then decide.


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## JRHAWK9

The LED's will be much whiter (which will appear to be brighter) but they may not put out the lumens.

yeah, I'm currently running 2 - 10W CREE LED's. I have everything setup though so I can add two more at a later date if I want.


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## darcy32171

ahhh ok. Well I will amuze myself tonight with this one, then package it up and take it back. At $100, I am not buying another lol. Can you guys post up the actual Cree product number please and did they come as a pair? I`ll do some phoning here.


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## chevyman_de

1 x 10W LED inexpensive flood wash light. Plenty of light for me.


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## darcy32171

No one has a Cree product number for these 10w Leds?


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## superedge88

Here you go
10W 910lm 6500K Cree XML-T6 White LED 60 Degree Flood Beam Work Light (10~30V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


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## JRHAWK9

darcy32171 said:


> No one has a Cree product number for these 10w Leds?


It's not as easy as that. The CREE LED is nothing but the little LED (Google photo search CREE LED once). Manufacturers then use that LED to put inside their light housings. All of them I've been able to find have been made in China and either shipped directly from China or from some place in CA. So finding one locally is going to be tough.


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## JRHAWK9

or here:

2X 10W CREE LED Flood Work Light LED Off Road Car Boat Vehicle Jeep Truck Bike | eBay

There are a buttload of these Chinese LED CREE lights all over the web, but he said he didn't want to do online ordering.


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## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> or here:
> 
> 2X 10W CREE LED Flood Work Light LED Off Road Car Boat Vehicle Jeep Truck Bike | eBay
> 
> There are a buttload of these Chinese LED CREE lights all over the web, but he said he didn't want to do online ordering.


Yeah, I thought that maybe he could pull the model number for that specific light off of the linked website and get it ordered that way.


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## darcy32171

superedge88 said:


> Here you go
> 10W 910lm 6500K Cree XML-T6 White LED 60 Degree Flood Beam Work Light (10~30V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


 Thanks! The place I got the rectifier from is a electrical gadget heaven. I let them know the specs and they are doing the search of all their suppliers. See, I got a real bad taste in my mouth multiple times ordering from down south. Stuff ends up either kicked the full distance on the ground or the turtle dies part way and they need to send a second turtle to retrieve the package or the stupid border decides to eat donuts instead of doing their job.


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## superedge88

darcy32171 said:


> Thanks! The place I got the rectifier from is a electrical gadget heaven. I let them know the specs and they are doing the search of all their suppliers. See, I got a real bad taste in my mouth multiple times ordering from down south. Stuff ends up either kicked the full distance on the ground or the turtle dies part way and they need to send a second turtle to retrieve the package or the stupid border decides to eat donuts instead of doing their job.


I hear you, I'd be frustrated too. Let us know if there is anything we can help with!


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## jobes

The less wiring the better for me anyway but can I just forget about the switch and wire direct from the rectifier? I don't care if the lights run all the time.


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## superedge88

jobes said:


> The less wiring the better for me anyway but can I just forget about the switch and wire direct from the rectifier? I don't care if the lights run all the time.


Yes you can forget the switch and have the headlights running all the time, this is how most snowblowers come from the factory and how I installed mine.


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## darcy32171

Here are some before/after pics. I am quite surprised actually! Will have to check tomorrow, seems the switch must be sorta faulty. It worked somewhat earlier and now it doesn`t shut the light off. Light still flickers with the blower governor (maybe a little farting), but on full throttle it is alot better.


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## Blue Hill

Where's you pick up the rectifier Darcy? B&E?


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## dbert

darcy32171 said:


> Here are some before/after pics. I am quite surprised actually! Will have to check tomorrow, seems the switch must be sorta faulty. It worked somewhat earlier and now it doesn`t shut the light off. Light still flickers with the blower governor (maybe a little farting), but on full throttle it is alot better.


Make sure you are not "grounding" your negative wire in the DC side of the full wave rectifier. Wire it directly to the LED. Grounding your DC wire will turn it into a half wave and give you flicker. Your AC alternator is already using the chassis and you cant share them and keep it full wave.


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## darcy32171

Blue Hill said:


> Where's you pick up the rectifier Darcy? B&E?


Oh my yes!!!! I phoned up to the guys at Auto Electric and one of them told me about B&E. I walked 2 feet into that business and stopped dead in my tracks and just looked around with a stupid grin and drool running down my chin. A guy came up to me and asked if he could help me...and all I said was: "I have never been here before, but I already love this place". He started to laugh! That place is heaven for a guy that loves to tinker especially when it comes to electrical gadgitry. They have everything.


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## darcy32171

dbert said:


> Make sure you are not "grounding" your negative wire in the DC side of the full wave rectifier. Wire it directly to the LED. Grounding your DC wire will turn it into a half wave and give you flicker. Your AC alternator is already using the chassis and you cant share them and keep it full wave.


 The DC+ is running to the switch...then to the light.
The DC- is wired straight to the black wire from the light.
The AC+ wire(one from the blower) is running to the connection kiddy corner to the (wavy symbol).
The AC- is grounded to the frame of the blower. 

As for the light not turning off with switch is beyond me. Part of me is thinking it is the switch, but it worked with the old light.
As for the flicker, that is caused by the fluctuating rpm`s. This old machine farts and spits when you lower or raise the throttle. Even at full throttle it fluctuates a little bit (more like a stumble). 
At 1/2 throttle the light is dim, but at full throttle it is very bright.


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## Blue Hill

darcy32171 said:


> Oh my yes!!!! I phoned up to the guys at Auto Electric and one of them told me about B&E. I walked 2 feet into that business and stopped dead in my tracks and just looked around with a stupid grin and drool running down my chin. A guy came up to me and asked if he could help me...and all I said was: "I have never been here before, but I already love this place". He started to laugh! That place is heaven for a guy that loves to tinker especially when it comes to electrical gadgitry. They have everything.


Yup, it's quite a place. I needed some tiny, tiny fuses for my digital multi meter a while back and they were the only place in town that could help me.

And for those you who are wondering, B&E doesn't mean that Darcy and I do our shopping at night, using a crow-bar!


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## Bossten1

Sweet just the subject I was searching for. Ok I'm a forum newbie but not new to snow. Been in and around Tahoe for the last 20 years. Very mechanically inclined and always willing to learn from others. Just scored a craftsman 8.5/26 track drive ( green one) electric start ect. by horse trading my way up from a free generator. We don't get a Ton of snow here in Gardnerville where I'm at ( 6" per storm would be a lot here) but I do have a extra large driveway 4 cars wide and 16x60 Rv parking plus another 16x16 area on the other side of the house. Plus I like to clean the sidewalk as a courtesy and just plain eliminate ice later. So in short I think this machine will do fine . Tested the other day starts and runs good drive and tractions well and throws snow decent . Definitely no honda. Anyhow I noticed the light is so weak and yellow then I saw this forum and thread.
Anyone know of a led or hid light that works well with these.
Thanks


----------



## superedge88

Bossten1 said:


> Sweet just the subject I was searching for. Ok I'm a forum newbie but not new to snow. Been in and around Tahoe for the last 20 years. Very mechanically inclined and always willing to learn from others. Just scored a craftsman 8.5/26 track drive ( green one) electric start ect. by horse trading my way up from a free generator. We don't get a Ton of snow here in Gardnerville where I'm at ( 6" per storm would be a lot here) but I do have a extra large driveway 4 cars wide and 16x60 Rv parking plus another 16x16 area on the other side of the house. Plus I like to clean the sidewalk as a courtesy and just plain eliminate ice later. So in short I think this machine will do fine . Tested the other day starts and runs good drive and tractions well and throws snow decent . Definitely no honda. Anyhow I noticed the light is so weak and yellow then I saw this forum and thread.
> Anyone know of a led or hid light that works well with these.
> Thanks


Tell us what the wattage is of the light that is on your blower. Welcome!


----------



## JRHAWK9

JRHAWK9 said:


> So, I have my two sets of LED's wired up so one set is on with one switch and the other set is turned on separately with another switch. That part works great. What I find strange is when I meter the voltage on the AC line coming out of the stator it seems to INCREASE voltage when I turn the LED's on?! lol IE, it reads 15.5V or so with NO load. Turn on the stock light and it will drop to 14.xV....then turn on the handwarmers while leaving the stock light on and it will drop to 13.xV.
> 
> Now, if I turn on the first set of LED's it goes up to like 16.xV, add the second pair and it goes up to 17.xV. If I leave all four on and then turn on the handwarmers it will drop to 14-15V IIRC. I was measuring the voltage drop because I wanted to compare it to the stock stuff. I was surprised to see what I saw.
> 
> Can any of you electrical gurus explain what I seeing?


Just thought I'd update this. I fixed this goofy anomaly by simply adding a 2200mfd, 50V smoothing capacitor on the DC side. It now meters out on both the AC and DC sides as one would expect it would. It also really helped clean up the DC voltage as well, at least according to the response time of my MM. 

I originally added it because I'm having issues trying to get 4 of these CREE LED's to work at once. The two I originally bought have been working GREAT, but all the ones I purchased after those two have lived very short lives. I even purchased two of the identical ones to my originals and those didn't last long either. I even tried running some with no other lights attached and they lasted a split second while my originals keep on working in the identical setup. I'm thinking some of them must be very susceptible to "dirty" voltage or they are just lacking consistent quality....or a combination of both. For example, I purchased an additional 4 of the identical LED's. All but ONE of them quit working within a few seconds. That fourth one still works, but I'm sending them all back as I don't trust them. So after buying and returning a total of 8 additional (where two of the eight did stay working but returned them anyway) I decided to try adding a smoothing capacitor to see if that helps. I haven't received those yet so I don't know if the cleaner voltage is what they need. 

I ran a 2200mfd one based upon what I've read. You can't do any harm by running too large of one, so I've read, so I decided to run the biggest 50V one Radio Shack had in stock. I did buy a 4700mfd 35V one which I also may try. I have it wired up so I can easily swap out capacitors.


----------



## lrmill01

*Toro 3521 older 1985*

This unit I replaced the engine with the harbor freight predator..wow what a pawer difference. OK now I want to add lights, where do I get power off the stator? ? thanks


----------



## Shryp

lrmill01 said:


> This unit I replaced the engine with the harbor freight predator..wow what a pawer difference. OK now I want to add lights, where do I get power off the stator? ? thanks


That engine doesn't come with a stator / alternator.


----------



## JRHAWK9

JRHAWK9 said:


> Just thought I'd update this. I fixed this goofy anomaly by simply adding a 2200mfd, 50V smoothing capacitor on the DC side. It now meters out on both the AC and DC sides as one would expect it would. It also really helped clean up the DC voltage as well, at least according to the response time of my MM.
> 
> I originally added it because I'm having issues trying to get 4 of these CREE LED's to work at once. The two I originally bought have been working GREAT, but all the ones I purchased after those two have lived very short lives. I even purchased two of the identical ones to my originals and those didn't last long either. I even tried running some with no other lights attached and they lasted a split second while my originals keep on working in the identical setup. I'm thinking some of them must be very susceptible to "dirty" voltage or they are just lacking consistent quality....or a combination of both. For example, I purchased an additional 4 of the identical LED's. All but ONE of them quit working within a few seconds. That fourth one still works, but I'm sending them all back as I don't trust them. So after buying and returning a total of 8 additional (where two of the eight did stay working but returned them anyway) I decided to try adding a smoothing capacitor to see if that helps. I haven't received those yet so I don't know if the cleaner voltage is what they need.
> 
> I ran a 2200mfd one based upon what I've read. You can't do any harm by running too large of one, so I've read, so I decided to run the biggest 50V one Radio Shack had in stock. I did buy a 4700mfd 35V one which I also may try. I have it wired up so I can easily swap out capacitors.


Have all four up and running, two floods and two spots. The trick for me was to use a smoothing capacitor. The style of CREE LED's I'm using seem to very susceptible to "dirty" voltage". Just have to wait until dark to get them aimed. I also have ALL FOUR fused on the AC side with a single 2A fuse. Started with a 4 amp and thought I'd try a 2A for the heck of it thinking it would immediately blow, but it didn't. So I'm leaving in there to see how it does.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> Have all four up and running, two floods and two spots. The trick for me was to use a smoothing capacitor. The style of CREE LED's I'm using seem to very susceptible to "dirty" voltage". Just have to wait until dark to get them aimed. I also have ALL FOUR fused on the AC side with a single 2A fuse. Started with a 4 amp and thought I'd try a 2A for the heck of it thinking it would immediately blow, but it didn't. So I'm leaving in there to see how it does.


Can you post a link to the lights you have? Let's get another video! 
I just sold the Toro that i had put the LED lights on. So I'll be upgrading the lighting on the Honda in a month or so when I have more time. My wife thinks I'm crazy, I'm sure the neighbors do to.


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> Can you post a link to the lights you have? Let's get another video!
> I just sold the Toro that i had put the LED lights on. So I'll be upgrading the lighting on the Honda in a month or so when I have more time. My wife thinks I'm crazy, I'm sure the neighbors do to.


yeah, I'm sure if my neighbors were close enough to see me they would think I'm more nutso than they already do....lol

Below are the lights I have:
-FLOOD-
-SPOT-

I plan on doing another video soon, we have to go out to eat tonight, so maybe tomorrow night. I'm actually curious myself, as I've never seen four of them lit up for any amount of time. 

I also just wired up another 2200mfd/50V capacitor in parallel to the first 2200mfd/50V one. So I basically have a 4400mfd/50V capacitor. I mainly did it this way so I have a backup capacitor in case one pukes out. I already know these lights do not like the dirty voltage so I didn't want to take a chance of one capacitor crapping out and rendering my LED's useless.


----------



## Blue Hill

Rock on Hawk! We know you're not nutso!  Keep on tinkering.


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## JRHAWK9

OK, here's a video I shot earlier -before- it was dark out. The mounts are made out of aluminum tubing and are mounted to the blower using -SORBOTHANE ISOLATION BUSHINGS- to help reduce the vibrations the LED's see. This is why the mounts look to be sagging a bit, as they are soft rubber mounted. 

I will get another video hopefully soon showing them at night.


----------



## Rtumark

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, here's a video I shot earlier -before- it was dark out. The mounts are made out of aluminum tubing and are mounted to the blower using -SORBOTHANE ISOLATION BUSHINGS- to help reduce the vibrations the LED's see. This is why the mounts look to be sagging a bit, as they are soft rubber mounted.
> 
> I will get another video hopefully soon showing them at night.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dNe9nJRjyE&feature=youtu.be


JR, did you put the capacitor inline with the dc+ wire going to the lights?


----------



## JRHAWK9

Rtumark said:


> JR, did you put the capacitor inline with the dc+ wire going to the lights?


nope, you put them between the (+) and (-) on the DC side. Capacitors have polarity, so make sure the arrows on the capacitor are pointing to the (-) side.

Check out the link below for a wire diagram:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/54250-post59.html


----------



## Rtumark

JRHAWK9 said:


> nope, you put them between the (+) and (-) on the DC side. Capacitors have polarity, so make sure the arrows on the capacitor are pointing to the (-) side.
> 
> Check out the link below for a wire diagram:
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/54250-post59.html


Perfect,that's what I was looking for. Thank you.


----------



## JRHAWK9

OK, I finally got around to making a video at night. This is comparing the stock headlight to the FOUR CREE LED's. Like I mentioned above, two of them are floods and two of them are spots. The floods are on the outside and are aimed more down in front while the spots are on the inside and are aimed a bit further out in front. I have the AC supply side to the bridge rectifier fused at -only- 2amps and have not blown a fuse yet. I do have the two lefts and two rights fused at 2amps a piece on the DC side as well just in case. I am using 2 - 2200mfd/50V capacitors to smooth out the DC voltage, as if I don't chances are at least one of the LED's will go out as they seem rather susceptible to dirty voltage.


----------



## Rtumark

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, I finally got around to making a video at night. This is comparing the stock headlight to the FOUR CREE LED's. Like I mentioned above, two of them are floods and two of them are spots. The floods are on the outside and are aimed more down in front while the spots are on the inside and are aimed a bit further out in front. I have the AC supply side to the bridge rectifier fused at -only- 2amps and have not blown a fuse yet. I do have the two lefts and two rights fused at 2amps a piece on the DC side as well just in case. I am using 2 - 2200mfd/50V capacitors to smooth out the DC voltage, as if I don't chances are at least one of the LED's will go out as they seem rather susceptible to dirty voltage.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD-riQPGi-s


Holy smokes. That's incredible. Looks amazing nice work. 

How did you wire up the second capacitor? Did you think I need the second one if I only go with the 2 lights instead of the 4? Although, I admit I'm envious of the 4.


----------



## JRHAWK9

I just wired them up in parallel (the two (-'s) and (+'s) together). 

No, I didn't even need the second one with four, but I wanted two so I had a backup just in case one of them went bad.


----------



## dbert

Wow. Just wow. 
Good job.
Thanks for sharing.
That is a long dark driveway you have too.


----------



## Blue Hill

Very very nice work Hawk!!!


----------



## JRHAWK9

thanks guys! Now time will tell to see how long these LED's last.


----------



## db9938

A suggestion though JR.....

You need to change your screen name to the "_Mad Illuminator_," and it should be stated in a thick Bavarian accent.....


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, I finally got around to making a video at night. This is comparing the stock headlight to the FOUR CREE LED's. Like I mentioned above, two of them are floods and two of them are spots. The floods are on the outside and are aimed more down in front while the spots are on the inside and are aimed a bit further out in front. I have the AC supply side to the bridge rectifier fused at -only- 2amps and have not blown a fuse yet. I do have the two lefts and two rights fused at 2amps a piece on the DC side as well just in case. I am using 2 - 2200mfd/50V capacitors to smooth out the DC voltage, as if I don't chances are at least one of the LED's will go out as they seem rather susceptible to dirty voltage.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD-riQPGi-s


That looks great! I bet it even looks brighter in person!


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> That looks great! I bet it even looks brighter in person!


Yeah, it's probably a bit brighter in person. It will also be brighter once we get fresh snow and have an all white background. Co-workers are teasing me that I will be the only guy they know of having to wear sunglasses at night while out snow-blowing.


----------



## UNDERTAKER

For the same amount of money and less time pick up two nite rider bike lights clamp them to the handles. They throw way more light


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## JRHAWK9

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> For the same amount of money and less time pick up two nite rider bike lights clamp them to the handles. They throw way more light


Capable of throwing more than 3,600 lumens for at least 4 hours on a single charge? I find that hard to believe, but maybe. Maybe the bike light method may work for some, but it wouldn't work for me for how long I am out at a time and how batteries get when subjected to cold weather for extended periods of time. I much prefer the hard wired method. 

I just looked into this, as it may have been an option for my Path-Pro.

Below is a link to all the specs of their different lights.
http://www.niterider.com/2014-product/pro-3600-race/

In order to get something capable of 3,600+ lumens, you only have a couple options:
- A single Pro 3600.....gives you 3,600 lumens but only lasts 1.5 hours at that setting. This costs $560 on Amazon.
- TWO Pro 1800 Race...gives you 3,600 lumens but only lasts 1.5 hours at those settings. These cost $272ea on Amazon. Looking at a total of $544

Looking into the rated output, max run time and cost of all the available models, I don't agree with what POWERSHIFT93 said above. Even their cheapest light is $45 and it only emits 220 lumens for 1.5 hours. I paid ~$20 per light and each light emits ~900 lumens.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> Capable of throwing more than 3,600 lumens for at least 4 hours on a single charge? I find that hard to believe, but maybe. Maybe the bike light method may work for some, but it wouldn't work for me for how long I am out at a time and how batteries get when subjected to cold weather for extended periods of time. I much prefer the hard wired method.
> 
> I just looked into this, as it may have been an option for my Path-Pro.
> 
> Below is a link to all the specs of their different lights.
> NiteRiderPro 3600 DIY | NiteRider
> 
> In order to get something capable of 3,600+ lumens, you only have a couple options:
> - A single Pro 3600.....gives you 3,600 lumens but only lasts 1.5 hours at that setting. This costs $560 on Amazon.
> - TWO Pro 1800 Race...gives you 3,600 lumens but only lasts 1.5 hours at those settings. These cost $272ea on Amazon. Looking at a total of $544
> 
> Looking into the rated output, max run time and cost of all the available models, I don't agree with what POWERSHIFT93 said above. Even their cheapest light is $45 and it only emits 220 lumens for 1.5 hours. I paid ~$20 per light and each light emits ~900 lumens.


I gotta agree with you, there is simply no comparison at all. If I have a stator available to run some LED's then I'm gonna use it so I don't have to blow snow with extra batteries in my pocket  At -26 degrees Farenheit I don't think my fingers will work well enough to mess around with battery replacement.
Now if I have a single stage without a stator I MIGHT be inclined to figure out a battery powered LED option, or I might just try to figure out a way to add a stator...
Oh, and a little teaser, all of the parts are ordered up for my Honda 928 to be throwing 3800 LUMENS!!


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> Oh, and a little teaser, all of the parts are ordered up for my Honda 928 to be throwing 3800 LUMENS!!


so, what lights did you decide on?


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> so, what lights did you decide on?


I decided on the same flood lights you went with
2X 10W Round Flood CREE LED Off Road Work Light Lamp 12V 24V Car Boat Bike 20W | eBay
They will go on either handle bar up high near the console.

Then I ordered up this guy to be mounted in the stock Honda spotlight location.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZGBLNW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It states that it is a spotlight (30 degree pattern) but if you read the reviews about it everyone states that it throws a ton of side light as well.

The bridge rectifiers came yesterday, so I may be able to start some of the install this weekend (one of the rare cases that I have a weekend off)

Here is a pic of what the honda looks like with stock headlight.


----------



## JRHAWK9

Holy crap! lol That big light consumes some current! What is your lighting circuit rated at? All four of my LED's are fused on the AC side with only a 2amp fuse.

I recently purchased an -AMP CLAMP-, so I plan on getting some actual current draw readings on my setup. I want to compare the stock light vs LED light draw, stock light + handwarmers vs LED's + handwarmers.


----------



## JRHAWK9

db9938 said:


> A suggestion though JR.....
> 
> You need to change your screen name to the "_Mad Illuminator_," and it should be stated in a thick Bavarian accent.....


I don't know how I missed this reply.......lol I was just re-reading the thread and happened to stumble across it.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> Holy crap! lol That big light consumes some current! What is your lighting circuit rated at? All four of my LED's are fused on the AC side with only a 2amp fuse.
> 
> I recently purchased an -AMP CLAMP-, so I plan on getting some actual current draw readings on my setup. I want to compare the stock light vs LED light draw, stock light + handwarmers vs LED's + handwarmers.


The stock headlight is a 50 watt halogen, so I believe that the headlight circuit is rated at about 3 amps.


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> I decided on the same flood lights you went with
> 2X 10W Round Flood CREE LED Off Road Work Light Lamp 12V 24V Car Boat Bike 20W | eBay


You know how I mentioned to you about the different quality of lights? Now, I could very well be wrong, but I'm going to take an educated guess based on all the ones I've purchased and say that the ones you bought, if they have red and black wires, will have a loose base when you go and screw in the base into the actual light. ALL the ones I bought with red and black wires were like this and some even had screw threads which were easily stripped. The aluminum housings on these also did not have as nice of a finish. What I ended up doing was looking for lights which had light brown and light blue wires, these are the better quality lights. They had nicer aluminum housings, tight bases and no easily stripped threads. You'll have to keep me updated as to which ones you receive.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> You know how I mentioned to you about the different quality of lights? Now, I could very well be wrong, but I'm going to take an educated guess based on all the ones I've purchased and say that the ones you bought, if they have red and black wires, will have a loose base when you go and screw in the base into the actual light. ALL the ones I bought with red and black wires were like this and some even had screw threads which were easily stripped. The aluminum housings on these also did not have as nice of a finish. What I ended up doing was looking for lights which had light brown and light blue wires, these are the better quality lights. They had nicer aluminum housings, tight bases and no easily stripped threads. You'll have to keep me updated as to which ones you receive.


I'll let you know what I think of the quality when I get them. If they aren't good enough then I can always replace them with something a little bit better.


----------



## JRHAWK9

Will be interesting to see what you get, as I've ordered from a handful of different vendors and it seems there are only two different lights. Both sets of mine look like -THIS- (only difference in the lens, one set has a flood lens and the other a clear spot lens). They have a nice smooth and somewhat shiny surface and they have the blue/brown wires. The others I received in which I had issues with had a duller surface with red/black wires. The actual housing shape and size look to be identical between the two though.


----------



## JRHAWK9

OK, I have an update.

I just received my -AMP CLAMP- so I decided to do some testing of current draw and voltages of my system with the added (4) LED's. I tested the AC lead coming out of the stator as that's what matters. I didn't do any testing on the DC side of things. I may do that at a later time though.

Anyway, here is what I found (rpm's at 3,720ish): 
All 4 LED's ON/handwarmers ON: 5.42A @ 12.5V = ~68 watts (too much for my liking)

So, I went back and wired up a separate switch which will allow me to turn the second set of LED's on/off independently from the first, but the first set has to be switched on if I want the second set turned on. I then went back and did a bunch more measurements. All measurements taken at 3,720ish rpms. 

Stock headlight ON / handwarmers OFF: 1.95A @ 14.8V = ~29W
Stock headlight OFF / handwarmers ON: 2.81A @ 14.4V = ~40W
Stock headlight ON / handwarmers ON: 4.45A @ 13.5V = ~60W

2 LED's ON / handwarmers OFF: 1.15A @ 15V = ~17W
4 LED's ON / handwarmers OFF: 2.53A @14.2V = ~36W
2 LED's ON / handwarmers ON: 3.95A @ 13.65V = ~54W
4 LED's ON / handwarmers ON: 5.35A @ 12.7V = ~68W

So, even though I hardly ever use my handwarmers, I will only be using 2 of my LED's when I do use them so I'm not overloading my stator.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, I have an update.
> 
> I just received my -AMP CLAMP- so I decided to do some testing of current draw and voltages of my system with the added (4) LED's. I tested the AC lead coming out of the stator as that's what matters. I didn't do any testing on the DC side of things. I may do that at a later time though.
> 
> Anyway, here is what I found (rpm's at 3,720ish):
> All 4 LED's ON/handwarmers ON: 5.42A @ 12.5V = ~68 watts (too much for my liking)
> 
> So, I went back and wired up a separate switch which will allow me to turn the second set of LED's on/off independently from the first, but the first set has to be switched on if I want the second set turned on. I then went back and did a bunch more measurements. All measurements taken at 3,720ish rpms.
> 
> Stock headlight ON / handwarmers OFF: 1.95A @ 14.8V = ~29W
> Stock headlight OFF / handwarmers ON: 2.81A @ 14.4V = ~40W
> Stock headlight ON / handwarmers ON: 4.45A @ 13.5V = ~60W
> 
> 2 LED's ON / handwarmers OFF: 1.15A @ 15V = ~17W
> 4 LED's ON / handwarmers OFF: 2.53A @14.2V = ~36W
> 2 LED's ON / handwarmers ON: 3.95A @ 13.65V = ~54W
> 4 LED's ON / handwarmers ON: 5.35A @ 12.7V = ~68W
> 
> So, even though I hardly ever use my handwarmers, I will only be using 2 of my LED's when I do use them so I'm not overloading my stator.


If you're familiar with relays you can wire up a relay to shut off a set of LED's when the handwarmers are on which would be more safe than just depending on remembering to shut off a set of LED's (I know that I am very forgetful)
If you're not familiary with relays I'd be happy to help you with wiring one up, pretty easy once you get the general idea of how to manipulate a relay to turn off something once another thing is on, and how to manipulate a relay to turn something on once something else is on.


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> If you're familiar with relays you can wire up a relay to shut off a set of LED's when the handwarmers are on which would be more safe than just depending on remembering to shut off a set of LED's (I know that I am very forgetful)
> If you're not familiary with relays I'd be happy to help you with wiring one up, pretty easy once you get the general idea of how to manipulate a relay to turn off something once another thing is on, and how to manipulate a relay to turn something on once something else is on.


That probably would be a good idea and have a friend that mentioned the same thing. I've used relays a bunch of times before but always to supply power to a higher power device so I didn't have to run all that power through a switch. I've never used them as I would in this situation.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> That probably would be a good idea and have a friend that mentioned the same thing. I've used relays a bunch of times before but always to supply power to a higher power device so I didn't have to run all that power through a switch. I've never used them as I would in this situation.


In this case all you need is a typical 30 amp relay and we'll get it taken care of from there. If you have specific questions let me know, otherwise I could do a tutorial on this thread regarding your specific installation type (which may be a common enough hurdle as others may want to do the same as what you're doing)
Before I put together my own tutorial I'll dig around on youtube in the next day or so and see if there's a good video that would basically explain how to do what you're needing.


----------



## dbert

Do you really need a relay for this?
Couldn't you just use a double throw switch to the hand warmers?
Switch position 1 hand warmers on, extra LEDs off.
Switch position 2 hand warmers off, power to extra LED switch?


----------



## JRHAWK9

dbert said:


> Do you really need a relay for this?
> Couldn't you just use a double throw switch to the hand warmers?
> Switch position 1 hand warmers on, extra LEDs off.
> Switch position 2 hand warmers off, power to extra LED switch?


no, because the handwarmers are ran off of AC and the LED's DC. I should probably get a wiring diagram on here so everybody can see how it's wired up.


----------



## JRHAWK9

OK, here's a real crude sketch I just did showing how I have things wired up.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, here's a real crude sketch I just did showing how I have things wired up.


Connect positive from rectifier to 86, split switched negative wire coming from switch (for leds that you want OFF when hand warmers are on) attach this wire to 85. Break the wire for one of the AC leads for the hand warmers and bridge that break by connecting 87 to one end and 87a to the other. Let me know if this makes sense, I'm typing this from my phone so no access to draw a diagram for now


----------



## JRHAWK9

cool, thanks! I'm not sure I will do this or not, as I really don't want to be hacking my factory harness up more. I already had to break the AC leads to do what I have already done. Plus I currently have all the wires routed nice & clean and not sure I want to mess with adding more. I think I will see how things go and if I find myself forgetting I can always add a relay in summer. I agree though, this would be the right way to do it.


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> I'll let you know what I think of the quality when I get them. If they aren't good enough then I can always replace them with something a little bit better.


When do you foresee you getting all your parts in? Getting antsy for the video.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> When do you foresee you getting all your parts in? Getting antsy for the video.


I'm getting impatient to get started. Things got a little derailed this past weekend, my wife's care died, so spent the weekend trouble shooting her car, then used car shopping... so made no progress on any of the upgrades on the snowblower.
I did get in the 27 watt LED Spotlight, the lighted switch, and the bridge rectifiers. Still waiting on the floodlights from China. I did test out the 27 watt spotlight and WOW it is bright! It does throw a tone of side light, so I'm glad I got the spotlight instead of the flood. 
I hope to maybe make some progress soon, though the days I do have off are packed with other obligations now, installing a remote start on a friend's car and plumbing up and aquarium is also on the list of To Do's, I wish I had more time.


----------



## mkd

jrhawk! lots of questions even though i have read all 11 pages to this thread. does my brand new ariens 921030 have ac? dc? or both? are the cree led lights you used durable and holding up from use? if they burn out are they then throwaways? the stock light in the dash is 20 watts but ac or dc? even though i viewed the wiring schematic i have difficulty relating to the wiring. i would probably leave the stock light in? and add 2 led lights to the blower. not sure if i would use a switch or not? anyway you can simplify the drawing and use words instead of symbols to make it more understandable for us dummies? this sounds like a summer project for next year!


----------



## jobes

mkd I'm in the same boat. Ive have all the parts needed but I'm just a little leery pulling the trigger. Ive printed all the drawings and I'm still trying to wrap my head around it and makes sense of everything with destroying my new blower too.

Heck I'll pay someone to do it correctly!


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## superedge88

I'm located in stillwater mn, so if you want help we can work out a day that you can bring the snowblower to me and I can guide the install. Private message me if you want that kind of help. Otherwise I can answer some questions later tonight once I'm on a computer instead of my phone.
mkd - I can simplify some things later tonight if jrhawk hasn't already by that time.


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## mkd

jobes! i don't know how many leads or what kind of voltage coming out of the engine? i'm guessing two leads to the stock light and 18 vac based on jrhawk's post about his platinum. i know if i want a switch i need to put it in line and to fuse it an inline fuse close to the source. the bridge rectifier stuff and the smoothing coil are all greek to me. wouldn't be so bad but i'm layed up with gout and the garage isn't heated. right now i can't even use my left wrist because of pain and swelling. vicadon has been my friend for almost a week. trip to the doctor this afternoon to go on preventative medications.


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## jobes

mkd Im not the guy to be asking yet. superedge88 or jrhawk are the guys for this.


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## mkd

jobes just kicking it around outloud. electrical is like theory to me! i never was good with theory. it be a good summer project for me


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## JRHAWK9

mkd said:


> jrhawk! lots of questions even though i have read all 11 pages to this thread. does my brand new ariens 921030 have ac? dc? or both? are the cree led lights you used durable and holding up from use? if they burn out are they then throwaways? the stock light in the dash is 20 watts but ac or dc? even though i viewed the wiring schematic i have difficulty relating to the wiring. i would probably leave the stock light in? and add 2 led lights to the blower. not sure if i would use a switch or not? anyway you can simplify the drawing and use words instead of symbols to make it more understandable for us dummies? this sounds like a summer project for next year!



Where in WI are you? Anywhere near Wisconsin Dells? 

Yours should have AC powering everything. Your light can run off of 12V AC or 12V DC, but it's getting AC from the stator. My CREE's are holding up good, but I haven't had them long enough to really answer that question. If they go bad, you throw them away. The CREE LED is part of a board which is attached to the aluminum housing. I wouldn't run the stock light AND two 10W LEDS at the same time. You will be overloading what the stator is capable of....especially when you turn on the heated grips (if you have them). I preferred to use a switch, but it's not necessary. If you don't mind the LED's to be on whenever the blower is running then you don't need a switch. As far as describing it with words, it's not that easy to do....lol A wiring diagram is really the only good way to convey what we are doing. Although, I will admit, my diagrams are VERY crude and confusing because I'm just drawing them by hand and have wires crossing all over. Maybe superedge88 can help you with that, as it seems he's more versed in that kind of stuff. In fact, if it wasn't for him being the forum guinea pig by being the first one to put LED's on his old Toro, I don't think I would currently have them on mine.


----------



## superedge88

mkd said:


> jrhawk! lots of questions even though i have read all 11 pages to this thread. does my brand new ariens 921030 have ac? dc? or both? are the cree led lights you used durable and holding up from use? if they burn out are they then throwaways? the stock light in the dash is 20 watts but ac or dc? even though i viewed the wiring schematic i have difficulty relating to the wiring. i would probably leave the stock light in? and add 2 led lights to the blower. not sure if i would use a switch or not? anyway you can simplify the drawing and use words instead of symbols to make it more understandable for us dummies? this sounds like a summer project for next year!


Jrhawk answered most of your questions regarding your ariens, so regarding your last query- what is it that you are not understanding or that you need simplifying speciifcally? Please don't read this as condescending, but the only way that I can help you in understanding a schematic is if you tell me exactly what you don't understand. So your specific question could be as simple as, what does the wavy line mean? What is different from AC vs DC? Much of this is talked about in the first post, but I can add more for those that don't quite understand certain aspects. We all think differently and have different backgrounds, so don't feel bad if you don't quite "get it" when tackling this specific DIY project, I will try to help in any way I can.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> You know how I mentioned to you about the different quality of lights? Now, I could very well be wrong, but I'm going to take an educated guess based on all the ones I've purchased and say that the ones you bought, if they have red and black wires, will have a loose base when you go and screw in the base into the actual light. ALL the ones I bought with red and black wires were like this and some even had screw threads which were easily stripped. The aluminum housings on these also did not have as nice of a finish. What I ended up doing was looking for lights which had light brown and light blue wires, these are the better quality lights. They had nicer aluminum housings, tight bases and no easily stripped threads. You'll have to keep me updated as to which ones you receive.


The Cree floodlights arrived from China, and they are the blue/brown wires! I hooked all the LED lights up for testing on an 18v drill battery, and WOW they are all bright individually! After testing all of the lights I am very glad that I ordered up a switch, since their could be situations where I need to turn off the light to avoid blinding someone.
I might be able to do some installing on Monday (my next day off) but there are other obligations that may get in the way. My wife supports my various hobbies, but is not so understanding when they get in the way of more pressing projects around the property.


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## superedge88

Well, it's supposed to be in the single digits on Monday (my day off) so I doubt I'll get much done on the install, so I thought I'd post some eye candy of the LED's hooked up to my 18v drill battery. Of course the digital camera compensates for the super bright light, so the wide throw pattern of the lights isn't accurately represented (in person the light pattern shown on the wall is much wider)


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## JRHAWK9

awesome! How do the plastic bases fit into the housing on the 10W ones? Are they tight or do they fit a bit loose?

<edit>
I just noticed you mentioned they are the blue/brown wires. GOOD! Those should have properly fitting bases and better finish.


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## superedge88

I'll have to check, I haven't opened up the packaging to mess around with the parts yet. I'll let you know


----------



## mkd

super! i have looked at your wiring in your first post. some questions! switch location? ac + wire after fuse and before wave rectifier? smoothing capacitor after dc fuse between + and - wires? don't know if i need it with 2 ea 10 watt led's? how did you connect the capacitor? in your schematic the two lights would be on the right side (dc output) wired in parallel ? i have found this info with schematics helps to clearify. http://www.foreverled.com/questions/how_does_full_wave_led_work.html


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## jaray

superedge88, been following this thread along. I've purchased a set of 1156 LED bulbs for my Briggs snowblower. I understand the need for the bridge rectifier to use the LED's but what confuses me is that I already have a voltage regulator which has taken the AC input from the engine and changed that to 12V DC for the lighting, heated grips etc.
I've measured 12V DC at my bulb sockets and elsewhere so I assumed the LED 1156 bulbs would just work. 
Installed them and they don't. What I did find is that if I reverse the polarity of the wiring to the bulb, they light but they also flicker. 
I can't for the life of me figure out why they act like this. As far as I understand 12V is 12V. 
Maybe the voltage is dirty and the LED's don't like it but that wouldn't explain the need for opposite polarity and the flickering. 
Where would I insert the bridge rectifier if I already have 12V coming from the voltage regulator? Am I missing something obvious here?

Thanks for any help you, JRHAWK9 or or anyone else might be able give.


----------



## superedge88

mkd said:


> super! i have looked at your wiring in your first post. some questions! switch location? ac + wire after fuse and before wave rectifier? smoothing capacitor after dc fuse between + and - wires? don't know if i need it with 2 ea 10 watt led's? how did you connect the capacitor? in your schematic the two lights would be on the right side (dc output) wired in parallel ? i have found this info with schematics helps to clearify. LED Technology


switch location should happen between the bridge rectifier and the LED's. Fuse location should go before the bridge recitifier (if you want to protect the bridge rectifier, which you may as well do) The smoothing capacitor goes after the bridge rectifier between the + and - wires. Each LED gets wired up in parallel.


----------



## superedge88

jaray said:


> superedge88, been following this thread along. I've purchased a set of 1156 LED bulbs for my Briggs snowblower. I understand the need for the bridge rectifier to use the LED's but what confuses me is that I already have a voltage regulator which has taken the AC input from the engine and changed that to 12V DC for the lighting, heated grips etc.
> I've measured 12V DC at my bulb sockets and elsewhere so I assumed the LED 1156 bulbs would just work.
> Installed them and they don't. What I did find is that if I reverse the polarity of the wiring to the bulb, they light but they also flicker.
> I can't for the life of me figure out why they act like this. As far as I understand 12V is 12V.
> Maybe the voltage is dirty and the LED's don't like it but that wouldn't explain the need for opposite polarity and the flickering.
> Where would I insert the bridge rectifier if I already have 12V coming from the voltage regulator? Am I missing something obvious here?
> 
> Thanks for any help you, JRHAWK9 or or anyone else might be able give.


Do you have an analog voltage meter handy? Many digital meters will not "range" fast enough to show DC voltage that is pulsing quickly. An analog meter would possibly show if the 12V DC is all over the place (going from say 8volts up to 12volts very quickly) If this is the case a smoothing capacitor should solve the issue.


----------



## jaray

I'll dig up an analog meter to check. 
But what is a smoothing capacitor? Any electronics guy I know doesn't claim to know what that is. A common capacitor by nature already performs this function. 

Any thoughts on why the need for positive to the barrel of the bulb and negative to the bottom to get it to light!


----------



## superedge88

jaray said:


> I'll dig up an analog meter to check.
> But what is a smoothing capacitor? Any electronics guy I know doesn't claim to know what that is. A common capacitor by nature already performs this function.


Here you go 
Let me google that for you
Please forgive me for having a little fun with you on that question  
Further more capacitors can be used for other functions. You don't need the capacitor for the application of a battery, or starting an engine. I was simply using semantics to tell you the single function of the capacitor in this situation, so that you didn't try to calculate the capacitor value for anything but smoothing capabilities.


jaray said:


> Any thoughts on why the need for positive to the barrel of the bulb and negative to the bottom to get it to light!


In the first post I talked about the fact that LED's are "Light Emitting Diodes" Diodes are polarity specific, so while the incandescent lights that you had in the bulb sockets were not polarity specific the new LED's you have are.


----------



## Jay

Great thread! The lumen difference between LEDs and halogen is night and day literally. I followed Superedge88's instructions and incorporated JRHawk9's capacitor and in-line fuse before and after the rectifier design. I ended up taking the advise here and went safe with 2-9W spot beam LED lights and I am happy with the amount of side light they spill off. The install took about 2-3 hours because I wanted to make the install look as clean as possible soldering all my connections and shrink tubing them as well. I would like to add possibly a third 9W flood light in the center of my console to bring my total up to 27W which is what my original halogen bulb was rated at. Anyone see an issue with that when I have my heated hand grips on, or when I use the electric chute swivel? My guess is as long as it worked with the halogen light is should be fine with the LEDs at the same wattage.


----------



## Mr Fixit

Please call it a Filter capacitor.


----------



## JRHAWK9

Jay said:


> Great thread! The lumen difference between LEDs and halogen is night and day literally. I followed Superedge88's instructions and incorporated JRHawk9's capacitor and in-line fuse before and after the rectifier design. I ended up taking the advise here and went safe with 2-9W spot beam LED lights and I am happy with the amount of side light they spill off. The install took about 2-3 hours because I wanted to make the install look as clean as possible soldering all my connections and shrink tubing them as well. I would like to add possibly a third 9W flood light in the center of my console to bring my total up to 27W which is what my original halogen bulb was rated at. Anyone see an issue with that when I have my heated hand grips on, or when I use the electric chute swivel? My guess is as long as it worked with the halogen light is should be fine with the LEDs at the same wattage.



Good deal! I hear ya on the clean install. I did the same with mine. All connections are soldered and shrink tubed. I also wrapped the smoothing capacitors in part of a Glad bag to keep moisture out and then wrapped it in duct tape. I used heat shrink tubing on the axial leads too to reduce the possibility of something shorting. 

I would think you'd be fine, BUT I would find an amp clamp and meter what your current halogen + hand warmers + electric chute pull and then compare it to what your current two LED's + hand warmers + chute pull. If your stock setup pulls more than your LED setup, then you can estimate what adding another one would do. I would want to keep your aftermarket current draw less than or equal to your stock current draw. I did that with my setup and that's how I confirmed running 4 - 10W LED's + my hand warmers drew more current than my halogen + hand warmers. I figured it would seeing my halogen was only a 20W bulb. 

I used an amp clamp in addition to a MM to meter the voltage at whatever I was measuring the current draw on, than I was able to figure out how much power the actual component(s) were consuming.


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## Brad94

Wow! You guys are a wealth of information and do fantastic work.

I just picked up a 9HP 24" Craftsman that has a stator wire but never originally had a light on it. I'd like to add lights to it based on the information in this thread. I take it my first step will be to measure the amperage at the stator wire to see what I have to work with. I'm quite handy and mechanically inclined but will be honest that I'm a complete newbie to playing with small engines, though I look forward to the challenge and learning. My first question is regarding the stator wire - does it have two wires inside for positive and negative or is it simply a positive and ground gets picked up from the frame? I'm also quite adamant about keeping things looking like the new lights could've easily been factory equipment so the mounting of the switch, bridge rectifier, wiring and lights will need to represent this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brad


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## superedge88

Brad94 said:


> Wow! You guys are a wealth of information and do fantastic work.
> 
> I just picked up a 9HP 24" Craftsman that has a stator wire but never originally had a light on it. I'd like to add lights to it based on the information in this thread. I take it my first step will be to measure the amperage at the stator wire to see what I have to work with. I'm quite handy and mechanically inclined but will be honest that I'm a complete newbie to playing with small engines, though I look forward to the challenge and learning. My first question is regarding the stator wire - does it have two wires inside for positive and negative or is it simply a positive and ground gets picked up from the frame? I'm also quite adamant about keeping things looking like the new lights could've easily been factory equipment so the mounting of the switch, bridge rectifier, wiring and lights will need to represent this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brad


Measuring the amperage is definitely a start, but you don't have the wire hooked up to the original light (since there isn't one on your blower) in order to do so. You may be able to look up the exact light kit for your snowblower and simply use that wattage as your bench mark (see the amperage calculator in the first post of this thread) I think that its a pretty good bet that you have at least a 1 amp stator, but better to be safe than sorry. If you indeed to have a 1 amp stator you can simply go with dual 9 watt LED floodlights, or one 18 watt floodlight (assuming your voltage is around 18v-24v) If you are going with a "factory" look then you may want to go with the single light, but be forewarned- You WILL get a shadow from your snow chute when you use a single light. I would recommend using a dual light setup, but that is just my opinion. 
As far as installing your bridge rectifier, capacitor and fuse(s) in an inconspicuous location, I would mount things under the main console. You probably just have a single wire headlight circuit, in which case you get one side of the AC circuit from that wire and the other from the frame of the snowblower. Take pictures/videos and ask questions if you need help!


----------



## Brad94

Thanks for the quick reply. I definitely want to go with the two light set up but want a clean look. As far as measuring the amperage can I not put a meter on the stator wire to get a reading? I just got the blower home tonight and haven't looked at the stator wire closely which is why I asked the question regarding whether there was on wire or two at that connector...


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## superedge88

Brad94 said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. I definitely want to go with the two light set up but want a clean look. As far as measuring the amperage can I not put a meter on the stator wire to get a reading? I just got the blower home tonight and haven't looked at the stator wire closely which is why I asked the question regarding whether there was on wire or two at that connector...


You can only measure amperage if there is something "pulling" amperage through the wire. Since you don't have an original light hooked up you are unable to go off of a measurement, so I would start looking for the exact light kit made for your snowblower to find out the wattage that it is, then extrapolate the amperage using the calculator.
I can't tell you for sure how many wires are at your stator, you'll have to take a look and count them  
I am unfamiliar with the craftsman snowblowers or I would be more helpful. Let use know what other questions you have!


----------



## ceng41

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, here's a real crude sketch I just did showing how I have things wired up.


Hi JRHawk9, I have the same problem, both lights lighted up for a while, and none are working now. How do you wire the capacitors? Looking at your diagram, is it just "spice" one end of the capacitor to the LED + side and "spice" the other end of the capacitor to the (-). you also mentioned 2 2000 mfd, do you twist them together, then spice them to the wire.


----------



## JRHAWK9

ceng41 said:


> Hi JRHawk9, I have the same problem, both lights lighted up for a while, and none are working now. How do you wire the capacitors? Looking at your diagram, is it just "spice" one end of the capacitor to the LED + side and "spice" the other end of the capacitor to the (-). you also mentioned 2 2000 mfd, do you twist them together, then spice them to the wire.


yep, you wire them in on the DC side. Capacitors have polarity, so you want to make sure you pay attention to that. Otherwise you wire up the (+) end of the capacitor to the (+) DC wire to the LED and the (-) end of the capacitor to the (-) DC wire to the LED. You are essentially bridging the (+) and (-) DC supplying the LED's with a capacitor wired in parallel. 

Yes, I twisted both of the tips together and crimped on a spade connector on both ends (makes replacing them easier if I ever have to). I heat shrink tubed the rest of the exposed leads to avoid them grounding out.


----------



## erock

*Upgrading to L.E.D. lights*

Couldn't you connect to "both" output posts of the lighting plug connection ?? It appears that one is "jumpered" across to the other at the plug connection. It looks like you could remove the factory jumper, and have *two* hot leads from which to power the bridge rectifier, as opposed to grounding one of them. Am I seeing this right ?? Or would this yield too high of an output voltage ??
 




superedge88 said:


> In this thread we'll talk about the do's and don'ts of LED headlight upgrades for your snowblower, and post videos and pictures of our successes.
> There are many models of snowblowers that have a headlight circuit, In most cases you can find a single wire that registers at anywhere from 12v to 20v AC (with no load) that is located somewhere on the engine, many times under the gas tank. Halogen lights are the typical light that comes with many of our snowblowers. Many of us want much more light than what the halogen bulb can give us, as well as better reliability than a halogen bulb. The search for something brighter and more reliable ends with the LED light. LED's (Light Emitting Diode) are extremely efficient, very bright, and have thousands of hours of reliable use.
> Since the lighting circuit is typically AC current at somewhere between 40-60hertz, if you just attach and LED light to the circuit you'll get pulsing light (think on and off 40-60 times a second) This is caused by the nature of an LED, because an LED is polarity sensitive, and has no warm up or cool down time when compared to a halogen bulb filament, the LED will flicker noticeably. The flickering of an LED on AC current is mildly annoying to many people, but VERY annoying when you are attaching it to a moving object like as snowblower. An LED that is in motion when attached to AC current (for reasons I won't even begin to get in to) flickers much more noticeably. To test this for yourself, take a strand of LED christmas lights, plug them in, and then swing them in front of you at arms length, you'll see a strobing or flickering affect.
> You can see many LED headlight upgrade videos on youtube like this one, that you can definitely see the flickering or strobing of the LED's. You can see the effect the flicker has on the video camera, you get weird tracks the go from top to bottom of the video frame.
> *1. EXAMPLE OF IMPROPER LED LIGHT INSTALL- NOTICE THE FLICKERING*
> Engine alternator powered LED headlight for snowblower - YouTube
> *2. EXAMPLE OF YET AGAIN AN IMPROPER LED LIGHT INSTALL- NOTICE THE FLICKERING*
> Yard Machines Snowblower 24" LED light bar - YouTube
> *This is what it looks like once you add a bridge rectifier, even though you’ll see a tiny bit of flicker in the video, in person there is none, you also can notice that there is no “tracking” effect like in the other videos.*
> 
> Very bright LED lights on snowblower - YouTube
> The problem of light flicker is solved by using a full wave bridge rectifier.
> 
> A bridge rectifier takes AC current and changes it into DC current using 4 diodes.
> 
> By connecting the positive and negative from your LED light(s) to the DC output of your bridge rectifier, and then connecting your single headlight circuit wire to your one of the AC inputs of the bridge rectifier (it doesn't matter which AC input) and then attaching a wire from the metal of your snowblower to the other AC input you will have light! For safety purposes it is recommended that you place a fuse on the headlight circuit wire before the bridge rectifier which should be about 5 amps rated fast blow, and then a fuse on the positive wiring between your bridge rectifier and your LED light that should be about ~1amp fast blow fuses. These fuse ratings are assuming you are using a headlight circuit that is rated for ~1amp at about 18volts, some headlight circuits are rated for 2, 3 or more amps, so using an amperage calculator like this one can help with both your LED light selection and your fuse selection. Volts/Amps/Watts Converter
> Here’sa pic of how I installed my bridge rectifier, I mounted it right next to my keyed switch that is on my handle bar console. I also used heat sink paste to couple the bridge rectifier’s metal casing to the console’s metal. I know this is way overkill, but my bridge rectifier came with the paste, and it was an easy application of some paste. The bridge rectifier I used is rated at 50amps 100volts KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier | Alltronics
> 
> When choosing your LED lighting you typically have spot lights or flood lights available. Spot lights have a more pin point dispersion with very little side spill of light. Flood lights illuminate a wider area, and with the short distances (from LED light to relevant distance in front of your snowblower) you’ll want as wide a dispersion as possible or else you’ll get a tiny area in front of you illuminated. I made sure to get floodlights that were rated for voltage below what my snowblower headlight circuit tests at and above, so being that my snowblower headlight circuit tests at 18volts I picked a set of LED floodlights that were rated for 9-32 volts. I wanted to make sure that I would never be putting the floodlights in danger with whatever voltage the headlight circuit was producing, even a small voltage peak is accounted for. The floodlights I chose are 9 watts each, which is as much as my headlight circuit is rated for.
> For those that appreciate a short(ish) video with some basic points noted here is a video. Please excuse the over use of the word “actually” and the lack of editing.
> LED lights for your snowblower that don't flicker! - YouTube


----------



## superedge88

erock said:


> Couldn't you connect to "both" output posts of the lighting plug connection ?? It appears that one is "jumpered" across to the other at the plug connection. It looks like you could remove the factory jumper, and have *two* hot leads from which to power the bridge rectifier, as opposed to grounding one of them. Am I seeing this right ?? Or would this yield too high of an output voltage ??


I don't know what you're referring to, is there a previous post I missed that you explained the various wires and what they tested out as on your specific machine? I'm happy to help.


----------



## erock

*Upgrading to LED lights*



superedge88 said:


> I don't know what you're referring to, is there a previous post I missed that you explained the various wires and what they tested out as on your specific machine? I'm happy to help.


In the electrical diagram posted in this thread, the positive & negative wires are on the supply side of the bridge rectifier. My output plug on the Tecumseh has TWO leads that I believe are both "hots" (maybe similar to 240v connections in residential use ?) The mating plug coming from the factory *light harness* has those two leads tied together for some reason, that I have yet to determine, and just the SINGLE lead going to the light. I'm thinking that I could separate the "tie" point, and have a higher output on the load side of the bridge rectifier. Your thoughts ?? Am I looking at this wrong, or making some wrong assumption with the "tied" output ?? Thanks.


----------



## superedge88

erock said:


> In the electrical diagram posted in this thread, the positive & negative wires are on the supply side of the bridge rectifier. My output plug on the Tecumseh has TWO leads that I believe are both "hots" (maybe similar to 240v connections in residential use ?) The mating plug coming from the factory *light harness* has those two leads tied together for some reason, that I have yet to determine, and just the SINGLE lead going to the light. I'm thinking that I could separate the "tie" point, and have a higher output on the load side of the bridge rectifier. Your thoughts ?? Am I looking at this wrong, or making some wrong assumption with the "tied" output ?? Thanks.


I gotta admit I haven't had experience with combining different circuits (hand warmer and headlight circuit) on a snowblower. What I would think is that they are essentially the same circuit only split and as long as you are within the amperage rating of the stator you should be fine, though I would be curious to see if the voltage changes when testing with a multimeter. Test it and get back to us!


----------



## chrisexv6

erock said:


> In the electrical diagram posted in this thread, the positive & negative wires are on the supply side of the bridge rectifier. My output plug on the Tecumseh has TWO leads that I believe are both "hots" (maybe similar to 240v connections in residential use ?) The mating plug coming from the factory *light harness* has those two leads tied together for some reason, that I have yet to determine, and just the SINGLE lead going to the light. I'm thinking that I could separate the "tie" point, and have a higher output on the load side of the bridge rectifier. Your thoughts ?? Am I looking at this wrong, or making some wrong assumption with the "tied" output ?? Thanks.


Careful, there might be a diode where those leads meet.

What Tecumseh engine? The L-head service manual is easily available if you Google it, and has a nice section about all of the different charging systems available. Using that you can identify which charging setup you have and if/where you can split it off for your headlight(s)


----------



## erock

Thanks. I don't see one that is readily apparent, but that doesn't mean I didn't overlook something. Both leads coming from the stator are testing as "hot" with a simple lightbulb tester. I'll have to do some more digging. I'll let ya know my findings as I sort this out. Have a great week !!


----------



## leona912

I just wondering if some regular LED can be used as a headlight? Like this one Amazon.com : Lighting EVER 12 Watt Dimmable PAR38 LED Bulb, UL Approved, Recessed Lighting, Track Lighting, Accent Lighting : Led Household Light Bulbs : Home Improvement
or this one
http://www.lightingever.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/LED-Halogen-Spotlight-2.jpg
Or if there is someway that can make some regular household LED bulbs used as headlights?


----------



## superedge88

leona912 said:


> I just wondering if some regular LED can be used as a headlight? Like this one Amazon.com : Lighting EVER 12 Watt Dimmable PAR38 LED Bulb, UL Approved, Recessed Lighting, Track Lighting, Accent Lighting : Led Household Light Bulbs : Home Improvement
> or this one
> http://www.lightingever.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/LED-Halogen-Spotlight-2.jpg
> Or if there is someway that can make some regular household LED bulbs used as headlights?


Lights made to run off of 120v AC would be more difficult to make work.


----------



## chrisexv6

How can I calculate the size of the smoothing capacitor required?

Im about to add LEDs to my 926LE, thats the only question I have left. It has an 18W AC output (I already have the bridge rectifier). Im going to add 1 or 2 10W LEDs.

Thanks.

-Chris


----------



## superedge88

chrisexv6 said:


> How can I calculate the size of the smoothing capacitor required?
> 
> Im about to add LEDs to my 926LE, thats the only question I have left. It has an 18W AC output (I already have the bridge rectifier). Im going to add 1 or 2 10W LEDs.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Chris


jrhawk has had good luck with using two 2200mfd 50v capacitors. As far as calculating your own capacitor value, there are a ton of links by doing a Google search, the math is beyond me though.


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> jrhawk has had good luck with using two 2200mfd 50v capacitors. As far as calculating your own capacitor value, there are a ton of links by doing a Google search, the math is beyond me though.


I agree....the math is crazy. Back in college we did the math but I don't remember any of it. Using too large of ones will not hurt anything.. The larger you use the more it smooths out the voltage.


----------



## enigma-2

Love those light brackets. Really a nice way to mount a pair of lights. 

If I may ask, did you buy the brackets or make them?


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge, have you had the chance to install your LED's on your Honda yet?


----------



## superedge88

enigma-2 said:


> Love those light brackets. Really a nice way to mount a pair of lights.
> 
> If I may ask, did you buy the brackets or make them?


Those brackets were from parts off of an old garage door opener. I am a bit of a pack rat, which drives me and my wife crazy, but can be nice when I can salvage parts off of equipment.

I had to rewire some circuits in my house this past weekend in preparation for removing a load bearing wall as part of our main living area remodel. It looks like I MAY get a chance to do some light installations soon on my Honda. Tough to find time lately with so many irons in the fire. I hope that this doesn't turn in to a spring project, but it may.  Sorry to those that have been waiting on pics/videos of the install.


----------



## paedbo

I noticed all the Led talk on conversions for snow blowers. Interestingly enough I have gone through a lot of this but not with snow blowers, but my camper instead. I wanted LED lights but had issues with when I was on power grid the inverter would pulse the leds. I finally found a cheap and simple solution. ( this solution also solved the lights not dimming when a high powered dc device like water pump kicked in)

Although the camper does not have ac like the stator puts out on the snowblowers. These boards I use already have built in rectifiers.

MR16 300mA 3W Power Connector (12V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

They are constant current driven boards. Which Led's technically are rated by current not voltage and its always better to use a current driver on them.

Of course that board is only rated to run a 3w bulb. But you can find them online in different configurations.


These here I have used. You can string in series 3 3w bulbs to make 9w.
http://dx.com/p/9w-3-led-power-drivers-for-mr16-lamp-light-12v-5-pack-66274

Ive never tried the following but from the picture I can see the bridge rectifier diodes below the cap. This one can run 5 to 12 - 1w led's

edit: ( actually this one probably wouldn't work well as most white led's run around 3v. so having 5 leds would put you at the 15v mark)

http://dx.com/p/mr16-low-voltage-5-12-x-1w-leds-driver-power-207555

With the big swing on the 12v ac they might need to be modified to add a larger smoothing capacitor but otherwise should work fine.


----------



## MnJim

superedge88 said:


> I used a 50 amp 1000 volt bridge rectifier, here is a link to it.
> KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier | Alltronics


 Can anyone provide a direct link to the 2200mfd 50v capacitor?
I tried a search at the above link for the capacitor and got nothing.

I will be needing both the bridge rectifier and capacitors so getting them both from the same location would be helpful for either shipping or going to Radio Shack and picking them up in person.


----------



## Mr Fixit

I had suggested a 100 Mfd Filter capacitor at 50 Volt.
You boys are now playing with a capacitor 220 times more powerful. Before you play with that. Put it in a vise. I suggest you charge it up with a battery charger then put a screw driver across it. That will demonstrate the "Can't hurt anything, or anyone" error here. That is nearing what they call a taser when it discharges suddenly like in your hand. That size capacitor is expensive and 200 times overkill. Also a 9 volt battery can put your heart into failure in some extreme cases my training said.
I'm legally forced to say something on safety issues.


----------



## MnJim

Mr Fixit said:


> I had suggested a 100 Mfd Filter capacitor at 50 Volt.
> You boys are now playing with a capacitor 220 times more powerful. Before you play with that. Put it in a vise. I suggest you charge it up with a battery charger then put a screw driver across it. That will demonstrate the "Can't hurt anything, or anyone" error here. That is nearing what they call a taser when it discharges suddenly like in your hand. That size capacitor is expensive and 200 times overkill. Also a 9 volt battery can put your heart into failure in some extreme cases my training said.
> I'm legally forced to say something on safety issues.


I only mentioned the 2200mfd as someone else used one. I am a electric idiot and was looking for someone that has done a LED upgrade to lead me to a vendor and say purchase this and this, ie LED upgrade for dummies

I remember as kids putting the 9volt batteries on our tongues because well just because we where kids


----------



## MnJim

Fixit after a lot of reading the only reference I could find on 100uF was in another thread(*Trying To Light Up My Ariens P24)*

*After reading multiple threads and following various links I am totally confused on what I read where*

*Got a headache uF Mfd nF*
*Will this capacitor work for what we are trying to do?*
http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/item/100A50/12/100-%B5F-50-V-AXIAL-ELECTROLYTIC


----------



## JRHAWK9

MnJim said:


> Can anyone provide a direct link to the 2200mfd 50v capacitor?
> I tried a search at the above link for the capacitor and got nothing.
> 
> I will be needing both the bridge rectifier and capacitors so getting them both from the same location would be helpful for either shipping or going to Radio Shack and picking them up in person.


I picked mine up at my local Radio Shack for $4.50ea. 

2200µf 50V 20% Axial-Lead Electrolytic Capacitor | RadioShack.com

In my car audio days I installed 1 and 2 farad caps.....now those are some decent sized ones. I guess they now make -40 FARAD CAPS- for car audio!!


----------



## paedbo

.

You can calculate the smoothing capacitor but you must know the frequency of the ac waveform.

C = I*t/ΔV ( capacitor = amperage x time of full rectified waveform / voltage drop)

does anyone know at what frequency the snow blower alternators are running?


----------



## Mr Fixit

I know where to buy high quality electronics parts in Canada. For you in the USA likely Radio Shack is your closest store. 
I've been watching this thread from day one and have allowed a bunch of you to struggle with this causing you to learn by searching for answers. I tried simplifying things, but too much information got involved. I only come in on this thread to keep you safe. 
I had originally added this PDF file to help those trying to do this. Briggs uses a simple diode you'll notice. A filter reduces the hum on the DC as displayed by the LED lamp. Beyond that, a switch, a choice of LED lamps. Remove the old current sucking original lamp. You can increase your Lumen easily 10 times using the original 6 amps the 1156 bulb draw. A good project.
Here's the Briggs info. to start.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu...ndstratton/pdfs/alternator_specifications.pdf


----------



## jude20

Great thread, thanks for all the tips posted. Really helps.


----------



## ceng41

Hi, ask for some assistance here.

The two LEDs that i purchased from ebay burnt out after two minutes. Based on this wonderful thread, so i figured it could be "dirty voltage", so i bought a 2200 mfd 35V capacitor. After the wiring is done, test it using a voltmeter, from the rectifier, two terminals (input from the engine side) show 18V, which is good. But the other two terminals goes to the LED light show 95v, i was surprise it is that high. Since my replacement LEDs have not arrived yet, want to ask experts on this thread of their opinions before plugging in the LEDs, do not want them to burn out again.


----------



## JRHAWK9

ceng41 said:


> Hi, ask for some assistance here.
> 
> The two LEDs that i purchased from ebay burnt out after two minutes. Based on this wonderful thread, so i figured it could be "dirty voltage", so i bought a 2200 mfd 35V capacitor. After the wiring is done, test it using a voltmeter, from the rectifier, two terminals (input from the engine side) show 18V, which is good. But the other two terminals goes to the LED light show 95v, i was surprise it is that high. Since my replacement LEDs have not arrived yet, want to ask experts on this thread of their opinions before plugging in the LEDs, do not want them to burn out again.



Same issue I had, but I went through a few pairs of LED's before I was smart enough to try a smoothing capacitor...lol

I'm guessing it's that high as you don't have any load on the DC side yet. As long as you wired everything up correctly, it should be fine. I'm far from an expert though. Maybe somebody else will chime in and correct me.


----------



## ceng41

Hi JRHAWK9, thanks for the quick response and guidance. I will let you know how it works out when the replacement light arrives.


----------



## MnJim

Ordered some parts from Radio Shack, Now if the weather just warms up a little. Now 2 10watt or 1 18watt hmmmm I have a 18watt rectangular so maybe I will try that in the stock location using a magnet mount to start.


----------



## liftoff1967

I'm getting close to install time. 

Switches - check
Inline fuses - check
12 ga wiring in red and black - check
Bridge Rectifier - check
10 watt LED Lights with blue and brown wires, same as Hawk and Super - kinda check. Got 1 of the 2. Other one is still in route.
Capacitors - Pulling in a favor from a buddy in the electronics world.
Mounting brackets for the lights - check
Weather warm enough to work outside - not yet!


----------



## superedge88

MnJim said:


> Ordered some parts from Radio Shack, Now if the weather just warms up a little. Now 2 10watt or 1 18watt hmmmm I have a 18watt rectangular so maybe I will try that in the stock location using a magnet mount to start.


I would recommend two lights, because with two lights you won't have snow chute shadow. Just a thought.


----------



## superedge88

liftoff1967 said:


> I'm getting close to install time.
> 
> Switches - check
> Inline fuses - check
> 12 ga wiring in red and black - check
> Bridge Rectifier - check
> 10 watt LED Lights with blue and brown wires, same as Hawk and Super - kinda check. Got 1 of the 2. Other one is still in route.
> Capacitors - Pulling in a favor from a buddy in the electronics world.
> Mounting brackets for the lights - check
> Weather warm enough to work outside - not yet!


Looks like you're pretty well set! I'm waiting for some time off and warm weather to do a bunch of work too!


----------



## reneluna55

I was wondering if anyone has installed a stator on a HF 212cc predator engine? I'm going to be replacing my motor with a HF one and was wondering if its possible.


----------



## MnJim

superedge88 said:


> I would recommend two lights, because with two lights you won't have snow chute shadow. Just a thought.


 Yes I have considered the chute shadow and also considered moving the light/s in front of the chute but that would mean mounting it down lower on the top of the bucket, Looks like Honda mounts theres along side the engine. Thought maybe using the magnet would allow me to try various locations before mounting permanent.


----------



## superedge88

reneluna55 said:


> I was wondering if anyone has installed a stator on a HF 212cc predator engine? I'm going to be replacing my motor with a HF one and was wondering if its possible.


I plan on having a video that may be helpful with this question at some point this summer.


----------



## reneluna55

superedge88 said:


> I plan on having a video that may be helpful with this question at some point this summer.


Thanks! That's the only thing holding me back from buying the motor at this point.


----------



## MnJim

JRHAWK9 said:


> yep, you wire them in on the DC side. Capacitors have polarity, so you want to make sure you pay attention to that. Otherwise you wire up the (+) end of the capacitor to the (+) DC wire to the LED and the (-) end of the capacitor to the (-) DC wire to the LED. You are essentially bridging the (+) and (-) DC supplying the LED's with a capacitor wired in parallel.
> 
> Yes, I twisted both of the tips together and crimped on a spade connector on both ends (makes replacing them easier if I ever have to). I heat shrink tubed the rest of the exposed leads to avoid them grounding out.


 Looking at my capacitor I don't see anything that indicates polarity or it does and I don't know what I am looking for?

Also can the capacitor be wired directly at the bridge rectifier or should it be closer to the light?


----------



## JRHAWK9

MnJim said:


> Looking at my capacitor I don't see anything that indicates polarity or it does and I don't know what I am looking for?
> 
> Also can the capacitor be wired directly at the bridge rectifier or should it be closer to the light?


You can connect it anywhere, just as long as it's between the (+) and (-) on the _*DC*_ side.

How to determine polarity of capacitor? - Yahoo Answers


----------



## MnJim

JR thanks I think I kinda figured the polarity of the capacitor one side has arrows and what appears to be a - sign nothing on the other side.


----------



## jude20

This is great, Thanks for sharing some knowledge. I am learning a lot from here.


----------



## liftoff1967

JR HAWK.

Hows the LED's holding up thus far? I'm assuming you have a couple hours use on them,,,,

On the LED lights, I also have the light blue and light brown wires. I'm sure it is a dumb question, but I gotta ask. Blue is Neg, and Brown is Pos?


----------



## JRHAWK9

liftoff1967 said:


> JR HAWK.
> 
> Hows the LED's holding up thus far? I'm assuming you have a couple hours use on them,,,,
> 
> On the LED lights, I also have the light blue and light brown wires. I'm sure it is a dumb question, but I gotta ask. Blue is Neg, and Brown is Pos?


They are holding up just fine thus far. Although I don't have a lot of time on them and it looks like I won't get another chance yet this winter. We've had a bunch of smaller snowfalls (<6") and I used my Path-Pro on the smaller stuff.

Blue = positive
Brown = negative

Seeing they are diodes, you can only wire them one way for them to work. If you wire them up backwards they won't work but you won't fry the LED's.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> They are holding up just fine thus far. Although I don't have a lot of time on them and it looks like I won't get another chance yet this winter. We've had a bunch of smaller snowfalls (<6") and I used my Path-Pro on the smaller stuff.
> 
> Blue = positive
> Brown = negative
> 
> Seeing they are diodes, you can only wire them one way for them to work. If you wire them up backwards they won't work but you won't fry the LED's.


Kind of a bummer that we won't be able to use our blowers much if at all for the rest of this winter. Just when I get a chance to work on my new install (tomorrow and Tuesday) the neighbors will laugh when they see me out at night with no snow to blow testing out the lighting.


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> Kind of a bummer that we won't be able to use our blowers much if at all for the rest of this winter. Just when I get a chance to work on my new install (tomorrow and Tuesday) the neighbors will laugh when they see me out at night with no snow to blow testing out the lighting.



lol...I know what you mean. When I was messing around with mine in the beginning of the winter there was no snow to blow either. Although, our neighbors are far enough away they probably weren't even phased.......unless they drove by and saw me.


----------



## superedge88

I got lights mounted but not wired up yet.


----------



## MnJim

superedge88 said:


> I got lights mounted but not wired up yet.


Did you make the mount for the large round led up by the fuel tank?
I am kinda thinking about mounting a single in a similar fashion and hope not to get as much chute shadow.


----------



## Vailen

superedge88 said:


> I got lights mounted but not wired up yet.


I like your new headlight. I am assuming it's a LED?


----------



## superedge88

MnJim said:


> Did you make the mount for the large round led up by the fuel tank?
> I am kinda thinking about mounting a single in a similar fashion and hope not to get as much chute shadow.


I can't take credit for the mount, that is a factory headlight mount from Honda. It is handy since there is very little shadow at all in that location. The smaller LEDs on either side of the handles will make for a shadow free experience.


----------



## superedge88

Vailen said:


> I like your new headlight. I am assuming it's a LED?


At this point I'd be locked out of the forum if it wasn't LED! Also there are 3 separate led lights in the pictures, my goal is somewhere beyond sunlight.


----------



## liftoff1967

We Have a Successful story.

Thank you to Superedge 88 and JRHawk9 for all the advise and tips.

I'm a happy, happy guy. To bad it is nearing the end of the season, but what the hay. I'm ready for next year.

If anyone is wondering about the mount location of the LED's, I pick this location for a few reasons. I did not want them on the sides of the handlebars being I store this blower in a narrow area and I can see them busting off. I could not get much more vertical than they are due to the direction shoot thinige hitting the light if I went taller. 

Again. THANK YOU!!


----------



## JRHAWK9

liftoff1967 said:


> We Have a Successful story.
> 
> Thank you to Superedge 88 and JRHawk9 for all the advise and tips.
> 
> I'm a happy, happy guy. To bad it is nearing the end of the season, but what the hay. I'm ready for next year.
> 
> If anyone is wondering about the mount location of the LED's, I pick this location for a few reasons. I did not want them on the sides of the handlebars being I store this blower in a narrow area and I can see them busting off. I could not get much more vertical than they are due to the direction shoot thinige hitting the light if I went taller.
> 
> Again. THANK YOU!!
> 
> 2014 Ariens Deluxe 30 LED Light upgrade - YouTube



What did you use for mounts? That turned out very nice!


----------



## liftoff1967

1/8" aluminum formed angles. I think I went 2" x 8" x 2" wide. Popped in a couple mounting holes to tie into the existing handle bar mounts, rounded off the sharp edges, angle cut the bottom to flow with the slope of the handle bars, and I was off and running. I wanted to get them powder coated, but for now I rattle canned them black. I can see that will not hold up to well however. Summer task that will be.

Again, Thanks Hawk. Could not have done it with out you and superedge88 and this forum.


----------



## JRHAWK9

liftoff1967 said:


> 1/8" aluminum formed angles. I think I went 2" x 8" x 2" wide. Popped in a couple mounting holes to tie into the existing handle bar mounts, rounded off the sharp edges, angle cut the bottom to flow with the slope of the handle bars, and I was off. I wanted to get them powder coated, but for now I rattle canned them black. I can see that will not hold up to well however. Summer task that will be.
> 
> Again, Thanks Hawk. Could not have done it with out you and superedge88 and this forum.


Can you post a couple photos? They look like they turned out awesome and pics may help others trying to do the same thing on a similar blower. I know my mounting system works for what I wanted to accomplish, but most people probably wouldn't like it as they do stick out some. Yours seems like it would work for most people.

NP, most of the credit should go to Super though, as it if wasn't for him I wouldn't have done it.


----------



## liftoff1967

Will post photo's later on. 

Wife in on the main computer now. This little chrome book does have its draw backs.


----------



## liftoff1967




----------



## liftoff1967

Still working on getting photos on this forum.

Hopefully this one will not take up 2 screen's


----------



## liftoff1967

Having a 3 car garage with 3 "full size" vehicles and 2 motorcycles, I have very little room to spare, thus the reason for not mounting the lights off the sides of the blower. Side mounting would have thrown better light, but I know I would have problems down the road.


----------



## liftoff1967

What the h3ll. Why not another photo.

As you can see the blower is "up against the wall"


----------



## JRHAWK9

very nice! I think those brackets turned out great!


----------



## liftoff1967

Was able to "test out" the lights this morning. We got 3-4" of snow overnight. I ran the blower with the LED lights and hand warmers on for a half hour total. Wow. What a difference the LED's make. I do have some shadows when I spin the shoot to the left, but still a big improvement over the stock light. I think I would get away from the shadows if I was willing to either bring the lights up (but due to the shoot crank design on the Deluxe series that won't happen) or hang the lights off the side of the handle bars, but that won't happen either. It was 27 deg. out, did not need the hand warmers but wanted to get in a real test. Before I shut it down after the half hour, I took my bare hand and felt my wiring harness to see if the capacitor was warm (read some where those little devils heat up) and I did not feel any warmth. Of course if I had a meter, I know where I would be at, but I don't so I'm kinda guessing.

All in all, I'm very, very happy with this modification. I have about $55.00 into this and a couple hours of my time (not including all the "oh crap, I gotta run to the hdwe store" time)


----------



## dbert

JRHAWK9 said:


> very nice! I think those brackets turned out great!


Just wanted to say "me too". 
I think they look great and I appreciate your desire to keep them tucked in and out of the way for practical reasons.


----------



## JRHAWK9

liftoff1967 said:


> Was able to "test out" the lights this morning. We got 3-4" of snow overnight. I ran the blower with the LED lights and hand warmers on for a half hour total. Wow. What a difference the LED's make. I do have some shadows when I spin the shoot to the left, but still a big improvement over the stock light. I think I would get away from the shadows if I was willing to either bring the lights up (but due to the shoot crank design on the Deluxe series that won't happen) or hang the lights off the side of the handle bars, but that won't happen either. It was 27 deg. out, did not need the hand warmers but wanted to get in a real test. Before I shut it down after the half hour, I took my bare hand and felt my wiring harness to see if the capacitor was warm (read some where those little devils heat up) and I did not feel any warmth. Of course if I had a meter, I know where I would be at, but I don't so I'm kinda guessing.
> 
> All in all, I'm very, very happy with this modification. I have about $55.00 into this and a couple hours of my time (not including all the "oh crap, I gotta run to the hdwe store" time)


Yeah, that's the reason why I mounted mine the way I did. I don't really have any constraints so I went with the "higher and wider is better" montra....lol I also made sure I put the floods out the furthest and highest and then used my spots in the lower and narrower mounts to help reduce any shadowing. The spots I'm using for distances past what the floods can reach so those I have more control over the light beam and I knew I wouldn't get any shadows with how I have them aimed. That's the reasoning behind how and where I mounted my lights. How you mounted yours will work better for the majority of people though. My uncle wants me to add a pair of LED's to his Pro 28. If I do I'm definitely using your mounting idea and location, as he has limited room to get by his car in the garage.


----------



## superedge88

liftoff1967 said:


> What the h3ll. Why not another photo.
> 
> As you can see the blower is "up against the wall"


Looks really good, doesn't look DIY at all. Outside of the box mounting brackets, good thinking. What a difference LEDs make! It's flat out astonishing what kind of light quality you are able to achieve with such a small amount of money and amperage.


----------



## liftoff1967

JRHAWK9 said:


> My uncle wants me to add a pair of LED's to his Pro 28. If I do I'm definitely using your mounting idea and location, as he has limited room to get by his car in the garage.


 The Pro model has the directional handle thing in the dash, correct? If so, you will be able to go taller than I did with my Deluxe.


----------



## enigma-2

paedbo said:


> .
> 
> You can calculate the smoothing capacitor but you must know the frequency of the ac waveform.
> 
> C = I*t/ΔV ( capacitor = amperage x time of full rectified waveform / voltage drop)
> 
> does anyone know at what frequency the snow blower alternators are running?


At full engine speed it would be 3600 Hz.


----------



## superedge88

enigma-2 said:


> At full engine speed it would be 3600 Hz.


If that was the case then there would't be perceivable flicker when using LEDs on raw AC from the stator since humans can't sense flicker at 3600 Hz. 
We're getting up to about 60 Hz max.


----------



## enigma-2

superedge88 said:


> If that was the case then there would't be perceivable flicker when using LEDs on raw AC from the stator since humans can't sense flicker at 3600 Hz.
> We're getting up to about 60 Hz max.


Sorry, meant 3600 rpm. 60 Hz is correct. (Good catch, Superedge.)


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> If that was the case then there would't be perceivable flicker when using LEDs on raw AC from the stator since humans can't sense flicker at 3600 Hz.
> We're getting up to about 60 Hz max.


I agree....we can't pickup anything much over 85-90hz, at least in terms of the old CRT computer monitors....lol Anything over 80hz had no perceivable flicker. Anything under 75hz would drive me crazy.


----------



## JRHAWK9

enigma-2 said:


> Sorry, meant 3600 rpm. 60 Hz is correct. (Good catch, Superedge.)


Mine's running at 3,720ish no-load rpm.


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> Mine's running at 3,720ish no-load rpm.


Yup, so you can well imagine that during heavy blowing that in most cases the AC voltage can go well below 60 hertz if the engine is not able to hit high rpm.


----------



## itsjaydouglas

Thanks for the tips guys; I have wanted to replace my crappy work light on my snowblower but I had no idea what to do with the single power line coming out... Now I just need to order a bridge rectifier (summer project)..


----------



## superedge88

itsjaydouglas said:


> Thanks for the tips guys; I have wanted to replace my crappy work light on my snowblower but I had no idea what to do with the single power line coming out... Now I just need to order a bridge rectifier (summer project)..


What light(s) are you planning on using? Let us know what questions you have, and remember pictures!


----------



## bubbenboy_90

Hi! I started a thread about my honda HS 760 from 2001. I have orderd two 10w led round flood that i am going to mount. link : 10W Round Flood CREE LED Off Road Work Light Lamp 9 24V Car Boat Bike Driving | eBay

Do you guys think that my snowblower is able to power the Uber led lights of doom?
And i have a question, i have read the hole thread and cant still get an answer. Is it AC or DC my Snowblower is putting out? Its ac right becouse otherwise i dont need an bride rectifier?

Sorry for bad english, im from sweden and english wasn't my best in school


----------



## Grunt

Most snow blower engines have only an "AC" wire to power the lights (incandescent) and or hand warmers, which will operate on AC or DC. Any engine that has a 12 volt DC electric starter would have a second wire (DC) from the alternator to charge the battery. 
Your English is outstanding, I don't know a word of Swedish.(sorry)


----------



## superedge88

bubbenboy_90 said:


> Hi! I started a thread about my honda HS 760 from 2001. I have orderd two 10w led round flood that i am going to mount. link : 10W Round Flood CREE LED Off Road Work Light Lamp 9 24V Car Boat Bike Driving | eBay
> 
> Do you guys think that my snowblower is able to power the Uber led lights of doom?
> And i have a question, i have read the hole thread and cant still get an answer. Is it AC or DC my Snowblower is putting out? Its ac right becouse otherwise i dont need an bride rectifier?
> 
> Sorry for bad english, im from sweden and english wasn't my best in school


Your English is pretty good! I answered you on your other thread, your headlight output is AC, which is why there is need for a bridge rectifier.

As stated early on in the first post of this thread...


superedge88 said:


> There are many models of snowblowers that have a headlight circuit, In most cases you can find a single wire that registers at anywhere from 12v to 20v AC...


I do believe that the stator should be able to power the two LED headlights that you have, but it is hard to know for sure without having the specifications for your snowblower.


----------



## bubbenboy_90

superedge88 said:


> Your English is pretty good! I answered you on your other thread, your headlight output is AC, which is why there is need for a bridge rectifier.
> 
> As stated early on in the first post of this thread...
> 
> 
> I do believe that the stator should be able to power the two LED headlights that you have, but it is hard to know for sure without having the specifications for your snowblower.



Well thank you for the nice words 

I have 2 cables coming out from my snowblower. One is white and the other one is brown. When i massure the cables when my engine is running on idle it shows 7volt and on full speed it shows 17,3 volts. 

Here's the thing if i messure the brown cabel and on the chassie i dont get any voltage, but it if messure the white cable and on the snowblower chassie i get 7volt on idle and 17,3 volt on full speed. Is my white cable my "phase" and the brown one my "ground"

And shouldn't i need to know how much ampere my engine is producing to calculate how much watt my roof is?

P = U x I (17volt x ? = Watt)

P=Watt
U=Voltage
I=Ampere



Thanks!
Tackar!


----------



## superedge88

bubbenboy_90 said:


> Well thank you for the nice words
> 
> I have 2 cables coming out from my snowblower. One is white and the other one is brown. When i massure the cables when my engine is running on idle it shows 7volt and on full speed it shows 17,3 volts.
> 
> Here's the thing if i messure the brown cabel and on the chassie i dont get any voltage, but it if messure the white cable and on the snowblower chassie i get 7volt on idle and 17,3 volt on full speed. Is my white cable my "phase" and the brown one my "ground"
> 
> And shouldn't i need to know how much ampere my engine is producing to calculate how much watt my roof is?
> 
> P = U x I (17volt x ? = Watt)
> 
> P=Watt
> U=Voltage
> I=Ampere
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Tackar!


If you do a continuity test with a multimeter you should be able to then tell if the brown wire is simply leading to metal frame. Simply place one test lead to brown wire and the other test lead to metal frame. I'm on my phone answering your question and will get to my computer late tonight to address the rest of your questions.


----------



## liftoff1967

bubbenboy. 

When it comes to this sortta stuff TRUST Super. He and JR HAWK got this whole thing going. They are very wise.

Like I said in your original post. I read, and re read EVERY post many times before I dove into this project and each time I picked up on a little more, and I'm a moron when it comes to this stuff, and I had GREAT success. Be sure to work in a capacitor. Just t a k e y o u r t i m e.

In fact I'm seriously thinking about getting my fathers old Ariens hooking up some LED's being I had so much fun doing this to mine.


----------



## dbert

bubbenboy_90 said:


> P = U x I (17volt x ? = Watt)
> 
> U=Voltage



Hi Bubbenboy. Got a kick out of your U=Voltage. English is just as silly. E = Voltage.
I've l warmed up to an electrical instructor named Dan Sullivan. I say warmed up to because he is a little odd.
We use his books sometimes in classes we teach.
Here is his YouTube thoughts on the letters we use to label electrical terms.





I'm not familiar with Honda alternators, but Tecumseh has 1 amp, 2.5 amp, 3 amp, 5 amp, 7 amp and 10 amp variants.


----------



## superedge88

bubbenboy_90 said:


> Well thank you for the nice words
> 
> I have 2 cables coming out from my snowblower. One is white and the other one is brown. When i massure the cables when my engine is running on idle it shows 7volt and on full speed it shows 17,3 volts.
> 
> Here's the thing if i messure the brown cabel and on the chassie i dont get any voltage, but it if messure the white cable and on the snowblower chassie i get 7volt on idle and 17,3 volt on full speed. Is my white cable my "phase" and the brown one my "ground"
> 
> And shouldn't i need to know how much ampere my engine is producing to calculate how much watt my roof is?
> 
> P = U x I (17volt x ? = Watt)
> 
> P=Watt
> U=Voltage
> I=Ampere
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Tackar!


Are you using an analog or digital meter? It is quite possible that if it is a digital meter that it may not be able to "range" fast enough to catch the true idle voltage/full throttle voltage. The voltage that is produced directly off of the stator can be kind of dirty, so it can have some extreme peaks and valleys.
If you're looking for a guarantee of the amperage that your headlight circuit can produce, you probably won't find one here. What I can tell you is that *I* would bet that it is at least able to produce 1 amp or slightly over, in which case your LED's are at the very top of what your headlight circuit is able to sustain.
In most cases folks are replacing a factory installed incandescent light, in which case you can place your meter in line (between the stator and the light) and measure amperage draw of the original light.
It doesn't sound like your snowblower had a light installed originally, but that it has the circuit. In your case I would call honda and see what they might be able to tell you (which they may tell you nothing) maybe check some repair/owner manuals for your unit and see what you can figure out. I'm here to help as much as I can, I'm not all knowing, I have been wrong before (or so I'm told by my wife) but if I can help you I will.


----------



## Motor City

What gauge wire are some of you using on this? I was looking at using 12ga, is that ok? Or should I use 10ga?


----------



## superedge88

Motor City said:


> What gauge wire are some of you using on this? I was looking at using 12ga, is that ok? Or should I use 10ga?


I believe that 16ga would be fine for this application, 10ga would be some serious over kill.


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> I believe that 16ga would be fine for this application, 10ga would be some serious over kill.


I agree. Overkill is right!


----------



## liftoff1967

I went with 16 ga. and have no issue's.


----------



## Normex

Hi gang,
Well you guys finally did it to me, got the Led lighting conversion bug. Of course a few question is in order to proceed.
Here's my engine numbers:

Engine: Model: LH358SA Spec: 159658A DOM: 08070CB1329
Engine Family: 8TPXS.3582BF DISP: 358
I have both AC and alternator wires. As of now AC is for the regular light and DC is being used for my 20 watt total hand warmers.
I assume very guardedly I could use the DC wires to power the led light 
(27 watt flood) and do away with the bridge rectifier install and put the heat warmers on the AC line. Furthermore do you think I still need the *2200mfd 50v capacitors on the Dc line for the Led lights?*
*Would the AC affect the heat warmers with the ripple effect of the current? I think not but not sure.*
*Sorry for the cascade of questions but remember you guys gave me the bug *
Take care All
Norm


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Hi gang,
> Well you guys finally did it to me, got the Led lighting conversion bug. Of course a few question is in order to proceed.
> Here's my engine numbers:
> 
> Engine: Model: LH358SA Spec: 159658A DOM: 08070CB1329
> Engine Family: 8TPXS.3582BF DISP: 358
> I have both AC and alternator wires. As of now AC is for the regular light and DC is being used for my 20 watt total hand warmers.
> I assume very guardedly I could use the DC wires to power the led light
> (27 watt flood) and do away with the bridge rectifier install and put the heat warmers on the AC line. Furthermore do you think I still need the *2200mfd 50v capacitors on the Dc line for the Led lights?*
> *Would the AC affect the heat warmers with the ripple effect of the current? I think not but not sure.*
> *Sorry for the cascade of questions but remember you guys gave me the bug *
> Take care All
> Norm


What is the wattage of the original halogen light?


----------



## Normex

Hi Superedge,
Thank you for the prompt response. I'm cannot check this as the 1130DLE blower is at another garage but are you asking because 20 watts with the handwarmers might be too much of a draw on the AC side ?

Thanks 

Norm


----------



## Normex

Got my 27 watts Led light. It cost $50.00+tax and emits 2160 lumens.
Now does the dc alternator have "dirty voltage" like AC with bridge rectifier, in other words will I require a capacitor even though it is DC output direct from alternator.

Many thanks


----------



## liftoff1967

I would think running a capacitor would be cheap insurance, but I would wait till one of the guru's log in.


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Hi Superedge,
> Thank you for the prompt response. I'm cannot check this as the 1130DLE blower is at another garage but are you asking because 20 watts with the handwarmers might be too much of a draw on the AC side ?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Norm


 Yes, that is what I'm worried about without any documentation of what the available amperage is.


----------



## Normex

Hi SuperEdge here's the photo of the bulb as nowhere it indicates the wattage. To jump a step, if it is a 18 watt bulb would it harm anything if connected to the 20 watt total handwarmers? One would think there should be a couple watts leeway with the AC stator, am I off track thinking as such? Wow sorry for the pic size. Maybe it's a 100 watt bulb!


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Hi SuperEdge here's the photo of the bulb as nowhere it indicates the wattage. To jump a step, if it is a 18 watt bulb would it harm anything if connected to the 20 watt total handwarmers? One would think there should be a couple watts leeway with the AC stator, am I off track thinking as such? Wow sorry for the pic size. Maybe it's a 100 watt bulb!


As far as what I would recommend, if it's unknown what amperage you are working with it's always best to test if possible. I would bet that if you take the bulb out of your existing headlight you would find a wattage indicated on the bulb.
I don't know much about the handwarmers, since I've never needed or had them, you'll have to do more research on why the existing handwarmers are on a DC circuit, is there any issue with switching them to an AC circuit? I wouldn't think that there would be an issue, but I could be wrong. 
I'd be worried about putting a 27 watt load (led headlight) on a circuit that previously only had a 20 watt load on it.
In a nutshell I would check the wattage of the existing headlight bulb, match the led headlight to that wattage and be done with it without messing with the hand warmers. That's just what I would do, you can take the risk of burning up your stator if you'd like, you might be just fine. 
Have you exhausted all options trying to find what amperage the existing circuits are rated at?


----------



## Normex

superedge88 said:


> As far as what I would recommend, if it's unknown what amperage you are working with it's always best to test if possible. I would bet that if you take the bulb out of your existing headlight you would find a wattage indicated on the bulb.
> I don't know much about the handwarmers, since I've never needed or had them, you'll have to do more research on why the existing handwarmers are on a DC circuit, is there any issue with switching them to an AC circuit? I wouldn't think that there would be an issue, but I could be wrong.
> I'd be worried about putting a 27 watt load (led headlight) on a circuit that previously only had a 20 watt load on it.
> In a nutshell I would check the wattage of the existing headlight bulb, match the led headlight to that wattage and be done with it without messing with the hand warmers. That's just what I would do, you can take the risk of burning up your stator if you'd like, you might be just fine.
> Have you exhausted all options trying to find what amperage the existing circuits are rated at?


Thanks Superedge for your time on this. Ok as for the handwarmers I did my own install with the cheap ones from China priced at $4.00 free delivery included and they work very well. So I used the DC circuit for it simply because I had both AC and DC and the light is on the AC circuit.
Now I think I'll throw a curve to everything and would like to proceed as follow: (opinions welcomed)
Put the handwarmers (20 watts total) on the AC circuit, next since this snowblower model was meant to have a starter with 12 volt battery hence the DC alternator circuit which I'm pretty sure is meant to only charge the battery resulting as a small wattage output, I would like to entertain to put a 12 volt battery to the DC circuit and light my 27 watt Led light with it and skipping the electronics needed except for fuses. Now my next question is how long the battery would hold with the Led light. I would prefer a range of 4 hours keeping in mind the battery will still get some recharge at the same time. Battery size would be similar to what would be used to start the snowblower.
I know this is off the norm of your installs but does it make sense?
Btw I received my Led light this aft. Specs: Prerating voltage DC 10-30V
Max power 27 watt, Ingress protection: IP67
Color temperature: 6000k-6500k, 2160 lumens.

Many thanks 

2008 Ariens ST1130DLE barely used so far.


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Thanks Superedge for your time on this. Ok as for the handwarmers I did my own install with the cheap ones from China priced at $4.00 free delivery included and they work very well. So I used the DC circuit for it simply because I had both AC and DC and the light is on the AC circuit.
> Now I think I'll throw a curve to everything and would like to proceed as follow: (opinions welcomed)
> Put the handwarmers (20 watts total) on the AC circuit, next since this snowblower model was meant to have a starter with 12 volt battery hence the DC alternator circuit which I'm pretty sure is meant to only charge the battery resulting as a small wattage output, I would like to entertain to put a 12 volt battery to the DC circuit and light my 27 watt Led light with it and skipping the electronics needed except for fuses. Now my next question is how long the battery would hold with the Led light. I would prefer a range of 4 hours keeping in mind the battery will still get some recharge at the same time. Battery size would be similar to what would be used to start the snowblower.
> I know this is off the norm of your installs but does it make sense?
> Btw I received my Led light this aft. Specs: Prerating voltage DC 10-30V
> Max power 27 watt, Ingress protection: IP67
> Color temperature: 6000k-6500k, 2160 lumens.
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> 2008 Ariens ST1130DLE barely used so far.


Your plan would work assuming that you'll put a trickle charger on the battery when not in use. I believe that you'd probably get quadruple the time frame you're hoping for. This new plan sounds pretty good, no capacitor needed.


----------



## Normex

I have 3 of those smart chargers laying about with quick connects also
I plan to put a toggle switch to enable off when using during the day.

Googling around does not give me what size battery they used on snowblowers so maybe an ATV battery would be sufficient?
How does one calculate the draw time on 27 watts use?

Many thanks


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> I have 3 of those smart chargers laying about with quick connects also
> I plan to put a toggle switch to enable off when using during the day.
> 
> Googling around does not give me what size battery they used on snowblowers so maybe an ATV battery would be sufficient?
> How does one calculate the draw time on 27 watts use?
> 
> Many thanks


Here you go
Let me google that for you


----------



## Normex

Thanks for the link Superedge, lots of calculations involved. I found a SLA battery with 8.2 A/H and by my calcs it should run for around 10 hrs?
The reason I mention this one is because Amazon have one for $53.00 free shipping and they claim is worth $100.00. The battery comes from UPGM.

Thanks


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Thanks for the link Superedge, lots of calculations involved. I found a SLA battery with 8.2 A/H and by my calcs it should run for around 10 hrs?
> The reason I mention this one is because Amazon have one for $53.00 free shipping and they claim is worth $100.00. The battery comes from UPGM.
> 
> Thanks


check out Fleet Farm they typically have awesome prices on batteries


----------



## Normex

Thks Superedge but I'm from Canada and we have to be careful when we buy these items with duties and everything.
I spoke with the UPG Batteries people (from Texas) and they based on the 27watt, 2.25 amps draw recommend their UB12180 which is 12 volts and 18AH because of the temperature it will be operating in, they tell me the battery should last 4.67hrs with the LED light. I have found one on Amazon.ca selling for $44.00 with free shipping. I am posting this for anyone who might go this route.

Many Thanks


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Thks Superedge but I'm from Canada and we have to be careful when we buy these items with duties and everything.
> I spoke with the UPG Batteries people (from Texas) and they based on the 27watt, 2.25 amps draw recommend their UB12180 which is 12 volts and 18AH because of the temperature it will be operating in, they tell me the battery should last 4.67hrs with the LED light. I have found one on Amazon.ca selling for $44.00 with free shipping. I am posting this for anyone who might go this route.
> 
> Many Thanks


Very good! We expect a full report with pictures! Best of luck in your install.


----------



## Normex

Well I finished the complete install of handwarmer to AC stator which works well on the running test I did with it and the Led and battery with toggle switch and fused at 2 amps. BUT the Led was happy and bright when engine off drawing straight from battery. I then started the engine with everything fine at idle and here's the BUT when I full throttle the engine (3500 RPM) the Led went dark. 50 bucks kaput. The engine alternator was connected to the battery. Those light are like dark magic they're meant to handle up to 50 volts so what gives. I tested full throttle voltage and it was 17v. Dirty Voltage via the alternator connected to battery? I know now capacitor must be required and feel free to I told you so. Why don't these light have them incorporated in their circuit. I will post photos of the set up. I'm not quite sure how to size the capacitor and how for the installation. 

Many Thanks


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Well I finished the complete install of handwarmer to AC stator which works well on the running test I did with it and the Led and battery with toggle switch and fused at 2 amps. BUT the Led was happy and bright when engine off drawing straight from battery. I then started the engine with everything fine at idle and here's the BUT when I full throttle the engine (3500 RPM) the Led went dark. 50 bucks kaput. The engine alternator was connected to the battery. Those light are like dark magic they're meant to handle up to 50 volts so what gives. I tested full throttle voltage and it was 17v. Dirty Voltage via the alternator connected to battery? I know now capacitor must be required and feel free to I told you so. Why don't these light have them incorporated in their circuit. I will post photos of the set up. I'm not quite sure how to size the capacitor and how for the installation.
> 
> Many Thanks


I actually thought you'd be fine with the battery without the capacitor. When you now state that you were getting 17 volts to the battery on high rpm I'm a little worried. 17 volts is on the very high side of charging a battery from my 12volt experience, typically 16 volts is the ceiling. I don't know exactly at what point the battery is going to melt down, but I believe you are near that point at 17volts. Being that your charging circuit is far above the battery voltage I believe that the battery was no longer smoothing ripples in the voltage. I would have thought that in a charging circuit there would be some sort of smoothing of the voltage before it got to the battery. I'm wondering if your snowblower is lacking DC voltage regulation that is on the other models that came with an on board battery stock? I'm not sure what is going on here, it looks like you are wading in to territory that I may not be able to help you with since I'm not able to trouble shoot things in person. I want to help, but without knowing what everything is/was testing out at, with a reliable multimeter it is very difficult to tell. In your particular case, I would be very wary about that DC charging circuit, as it may not be acting like it should. Do you have any service manuals for your snowblower to look over to see what is supposed to be involved with the charging circuit? None of the snowblowers I've owned had an on board battery, so my experience with the charging circuits on snowblowers is zero.


----------



## Normex

Thanks Superedge for your quick reply. For a Multimeter I use a Milwaukee with the amp clamp and separate probes. When I tested initially at full it showed 16.6 then went to to 17v. I will make further tests at full throttle. At idle it shows 13.8v. I shall speak also to the battery supplier and get their thoughts. My unit manual doesn't mention much on the alternator. Maybe Ariens shed some light? As of now I can't.


----------



## Normex

Hi again, here's a few photo of adding a 12v battery + on the other photo the 27 watt Led Light with toggle just above to allow turning the light off during daytime.
I wrapped the battery with bubble wrap to insulate from vibration.
It was a tight fit below the gas tank (battery size 6.5"H 7"L 3.5"W)
It is 18AH which would last almost 5 hrs on its own. I normally take 1.5hr maximum for 150ft X 2.5 cars wide driveway.


----------



## Normex

SuperEdge after checking with our guru small engine mechanic in my area, the wiring that is used for the light (stator) and the additional wiring for battery charging comes from the same source the stator. The battery charging circuit only involves a rectifier added to the stator circuit. Some people and as I thought there was a stator and a separate alternator.
The circuit from the stator explains the dirty voltage. The mechanic told a new rectifier regulator is around $55 bucks.
So as I read somewhere Einstein once said" It is very easy for idiots to make things more complex but much smarter the one who does the same simpler" so in this case I played both characters.
I came back and rewired eliminating the charging circuit to the battery which now the Led Light will be powered solely with the 12v battery. It is now wired with a quick connect for the trickle charger. Do you think if the negative from the stator originally meant for the AC light is now connected to the negative on battery or should simply connect to the frame? I know as of now everything works as it should.

Thank you


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> SuperEdge after checking with our guru small engine mechanic in my area, the wiring that is used for the light (stator) and the additional wiring for battery charging comes from the same source the stator. The battery charging circuit only involves a rectifier added to the stator circuit. Some people and as I thought there was a stator and a separate alternator.
> The circuit from the stator explains the dirty voltage. The mechanic told a new rectifier regulator is around $55 bucks.
> So as I read somewhere Einstein once said" It is very easy for idiots to make things more complex but much smarter the one who does the same simpler" so in this case I played both characters.
> I came back and rewired eliminating the charging circuit to the battery which now the Led Light will be powered solely with the 12v battery. It is now wired with a quick connect for the trickle charger. Do you think if the negative from the stator originally meant for the AC light is now connected to the negative on battery or should simply connect to the frame? I know as of now everything works as it should.
> 
> Thank you


I'm not understanding, you said that you disconnected the battery from being charged from the snowblower correct? So the battery should then have no connection to the snowblower, just the LED positive and negative. Am I missing something?


----------



## Normex

Yes that's correct the battery is now not connected to the engine. The DC current proved to be dirty DC.
After a snowblowing event at night I will connect the battery to a trickle charger via a quick connect wires I set up.

Many Thanks


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Yes that's correct the battery is now not connected to the engine. The DC current proved to be dirty DC.
> After a snowblowing event at night I will connect the battery to a trickle charger via a quick connect wires I set up.
> 
> Many Thanks


So then per your experience others should know to first test the DC output of a snowblower that is made to have an onboard battery before retrofitting a battery to it. I bet that the battery would have eventually prematurely failed, or maybe even melted down if you hadn't caught the 17v charging issue. We all learned from your situation, thanks for reporting back to us.


----------



## KpaxFAQ

You could probably throw a voltage regulator inline to keep it in the 13-14V range for battery charging but it would waste some of the precious limited current capacity...


----------



## Normex

I have it going with 12v battery straight connected and then just connect a battery tender.


----------



## KpaxFAQ

Normex said:


> I have it going with 12v battery straight connected and then just connect a battery tender.


That's not a bad solution, if you have the connector setup like you said it's easy to just plug in...I plug in my motorcycle like that all the time


----------



## superedge88

KpaxFAQ said:


> That's not a bad solution, if you have the connector setup like you said it's easy to just plug in...I plug in my motorcycle like that all the time


I agree, it's the best option for those that don't have a headlight circuit.


----------



## superedge88

Allright, so I finally finished up the LED install on the Honda. I figured I should stop procrastinating because once the baby is here (11 days past due right now) there isn't going to be much extra time on hand to get this project finished up! So here are some non snowy pics of the three LED install, video will be forthcoming once it snows a touch to get a real feel for the brightness of the LED's


----------



## db9938

Is that the factory bracket?

And I feel for you brother, cause when momma ain't happy, nobody is happy.


----------



## liftoff1967

Nice work super. On both the lights and the new baby on the way.


----------



## superedge88

db9938 said:


> Is that the factory bracket?
> 
> And I feel for you brother, cause when momma ain't happy, nobody is happy.


The larger light in front of the gas tank is mounted on the factory bracket. 

My wife is doing better than I would in her position. The waiting game is so difficult!


----------



## superedge88

liftoff1967 said:


> Nice work super. On both the lights and the new baby on the way.


Thank you! ☺


----------



## JRHAWK9

dayum, that large light looks like it is super bright!!


----------



## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> dayum, that large light looks like it is super bright!!


It definitely is bright! As soon as it snows a little I'll take pictures and video of it all lit up.
Good to see that you're back around the forum, I hope your summer went well JRHAWK.


----------



## bubbenboy_90

This is my honda snowblower. And thanks to your guide i was able to mount my 10w led flood with a bridge rectifier and 2 two 2200mfd 50v capacitors. No flicker!

Thanks guys!


----------



## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> It definitely is bright! As soon as it snows a little I'll take pictures and video of it all lit up.
> Good to see that you're back around the forum, I hope your summer went well JRHAWK.


thanks. I'm sure I'll be back around more when the slow starts flying again_. _I tend to make my seasonal rounds on some different forums.


----------



## q95

Does anyone want to guess/bet when Ariens will switch to LED? Seems like they're behind the technology curve!


----------



## liftoff1967

Nice job Buddenboy_90

Big change over stock, aye?


----------



## superedge88

q95 said:


> Does anyone want to guess/bet when Ariens will switch to LED? Seems like they're behind the technology curve!


I would almost not want them to change. Because I would worry that they would not be as bright as our LED upgrades. If they went to a stock LED then I would wonder if they would then put on a smaller stator which would then make it impossible to DIY a brighter option due to lack of available amperage.


----------



## superedge88

bubbenboy_90 said:


> [/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
> 
> This is my honda snowblower. And thanks to your guide i was able to mount my 10w led flood with a bridge rectifier and 2 two 2200mfd 50v capacitors. No flicker!
> 
> Thanks guys!


Only some of your pics attached, but from what I see it looks awesome! You and I had some of the same ideas for mounting the LED's.


----------



## liftoff1967

superedge88 said:


> I would almost not want them to change. Because I would worry that they would not be as bright as our LED upgrades. If they went to a stock LED then I would wonder if they would then put on a smaller stator which would then make it impossible to DIY a brighter option due to lack of available amperage.



As always Super, you make a good point. Doubt the stock LED's would be anything like we have done!

A coworker is having me "help" get his LED's up and running. This will make it 3 rigs I have done thus far, thanks to you and this thread people actually think I got a brain. 

Tricked em all again I did.


----------



## superedge88

liftoff1967 said:


> As always Super, you make a good point. Doubt the stock LED's would be anything like we have done!
> 
> A coworker is having me "help" get his LED's up and running. This will make it 3 rigs I have done thus far, thanks to you and this thread people actually think I got a brain.
> 
> Tricked em all again I did.


You are too kind. It looks like you are paying it forward and helping out your fellow man. If you think about it, we are all just products of the knowledge we have absorbed. So now you are the one that is teaching.


----------



## KpaxFAQ

superedge88 said:


> Allright, so I finally finished up the LED install on the Honda. I figured I should stop procrastinating because once the baby is here (11 days past due right now) there isn't going to be much extra time on hand to get this project finished up! So here are some non snowy pics of the three LED install, video will be forthcoming once it snows a touch to get a real feel for the brightness of the LED's



That looks fantastic! Needless to say...I think I know what I'm doing


----------



## bubbenboy_90

liftoff1967 said:


> Nice job Buddenboy_90
> 
> Big change over stock, aye?


Thanks! Yeah a big change. I like the wide angle with the flood beem. Cant wait to se it in action


----------



## bubbenboy_90

superedge88 said:


> Only some of your pics attached, but from what I see it looks awesome! You and I had some of the same ideas for mounting the LED's.


Thanks for the head up! Now i have changed the pictures.
Actually i copied your mounting of the led lamps. First i was thinking of a led bar, but two led mounted like yours give better light i think.

How did you hide your bridge rectifier and capacitors? I have mounted a ip 67 box and hide everything there. The only worries i have is that the capacitors can be to hot in the box...

Thanks everyone for inspiration


----------



## Akview

*2200 50v capacitors?*

Great thread. Thank you to the original poster and those who have shared advice.

Two questions that someone may be able to help answer:

#1.MrFix-it expressed concern over the high capacity of the 2200 mfd 50v capacitors being used here. After reading the entire thread a couple times, I haven't noticed anyone address the issue. worse case..how big/crazy/ hot of an explosion are we talking if things go bad? I have no experience or idea. would a much smaller capacitor suffice?

#2. I have recently acquired a honda HS 724TA. It has the one wire coming the stator and no light kit installed. I am not able to find spects on the stator capacity. Anyone have info on this model? I find lots of light kits but cannot find wattages for this model.

Thank you in advance


----------



## superedge88

Akview said:


> Great thread. Thank you to the original poster and those who have shared advice.
> 
> Two questions that someone may be able to help answer:
> 
> #1.MrFix-it expressed concern over the high capacity of the 2200 mfd 50v capacitors being used here. After reading the entire thread a couple times, I haven't noticed anyone address the issue. worse case..how big/crazy/ hot of an explosion are we talking if things go bad? I have no experience or idea. would a much smaller capacitor suffice?
> 
> #2. I have recently acquired a honda HS 724TA. It has the one wire coming the stator and no light kit installed. I am not able to find spects on the stator capacity. Anyone have info on this model? I find lots of light kits but cannot find wattages for this model.
> 
> Thank you in advance


I believe that you have a 3 amp stator, but I can't guarantee that. Maybe later I can try to do some google searching for you.


----------



## Akview

Superedge...Im chuckling a little because I see that you end up google-ing for a lot of people.

I appreciate the quick reply and the offer of assistance. For what its worth, I believe Im cyber capable but for the life of me Im not finding it...

Any thoughts on the 50v capacitor or is it a non-issue?

Thank you for taking the time to make this such a great thread!


----------



## KpaxFAQ

Coming from someone who has rebuild dozens of audio amplifiers for hobby and money....you have nothing to worry about the capacitors....all you're creating with the rectifier and cap or two is a crude basic DC power supply. 

Worst case scenario you hook the clearly labeled polarity of the caps backwards and they overheat and pop. The 50V rating of the capacitor is just the maximum working voltage it can operate under. You could use 450V rated caps and they'd work, they'd just be complete overkill. I'll probably do the power supply for my Honda from my junk box of parts. Mixed values, voltage ratings...etc. It doesn't matter because it's for a light...


----------



## Akview

Kpax 

That's great information from someone with experience.

I appreciate it!


----------



## Akview

*Honda 724 TA coil*

Ok I believe I have found what I need. I was so worried Superedge would find it before me that I kicked it into cybersearch-overdrive. 

Looks like all most models of the honda 724 have a 50watt coil. Just as SuperEdge said.

Thank you.

Looks like I'm my way to an LED lighted snowplowing season!


----------



## superedge88

Akview said:


> Superedge...Im chucking a little because I see that you end up google-ing for a lot of people.
> 
> I appreciate the quick reply and the offer of assistance. For what its worth, I believe Im cyber capable but for the life of me Im not finding it...
> 
> Any thoughts on the 50v capacitor or is it a non-issue?
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to make this such a great thread!


I found the replacement bulb part number here 
Honda Snow Blower Head Lights
Then I did a Google search for that part number and found it on Amazon listed as a 12v55w bulb. So it looks like it should be a 3 amp stator.


----------



## Akview

*Super*



superedge88 said:


> I found the replacement bulb part number here
> Honda Snow Blower Head Lights
> Then I did a Google search for that part number and found it on Amazon listed as a 12v55w bulb. So it looks like it should be a 3 amp stator.


And thats why you wear the big S!

Thanks!


----------



## theeplaymaker

I just got a Snapper H1528E and noticed in my garage that the stock LED's have this flicker going on to them. Now I was an electronics engineering major for 2 years and I am comfortable doing the original post mods but shouldn't this have been taken care of at the factory? Not sure I want to tear into the wiring of my brand new blower. Anyone have any thoughts?


----------



## superedge88

theeplaymaker said:


> I just got a Snapper H1528E and noticed in my garage that the stock LED's have this flicker going on to them. Now I was an electronics engineering major for 2 years and I am comfortable doing the original post mods but shouldn't this have been taken care of at the factory? Not sure I want to tear into the wiring of my brand new blower. Anyone have any thoughts?


Is the snowblower running smoothly? 
Assuming that is the case then the only way to do this is to break out your multimeter and figure out what's wrong. It's either AC voltage being fed directly to the led headlight (it's possible if snapper really went cheap on the lighting) or it's really dirty DC voltage that's feeding the LED headlight and you simply need a capacitor to smooth it out. Shouldn't be very difficult to troubleshoot. It is odd that you're having this issue with a new blower, should have been installed correctly from the start. Let us know what you find is the issue so that others that have your Snowblower can then know what it takes to fix this issue. Best of luck to you!


----------



## theeplaymaker

They responded to my email and said it's because it's fed from the AC off the motor...guess I'll have to do some wiring on my brand new blower to fix something they should have engineered from the factory. Going to bust out the meter and do some more digging once I get off this horrible night shift.


----------



## db9938

That seems like a real shame. It would appear that they have produced a real fine machine, something that genuinely stacks up to the rest of the market offerings, just to be capped off by one item that was essentially slapped together.


----------



## superedge88

Definitely a disappointment! Makes me wonder where they cut corners elsewhere.


----------



## theeplaymaker

I agree. I know it adds up over thousands of units but for the cost of a few bucks to fix the issue, it's quite annoying. I was checking out the wiring and it is at least in a good spot where I can cut the wire, solder in some new to make it longer and add the components to hopefully stop the strobe light affect.


----------



## db9938

Why not put the rectifier closer to the light, not cut the wires and build simple jumpers to the light.


----------



## theeplaymaker

Where the two wires come out of the harness for the lights under the dash they go right into the one light almost immediately. I was going to cut that off as my AC source for the rectifier and then run the DC leads back to that first light that then parallels over to the second. Where they come out of the harness they are not even long enough to get terminals crimped on so that is why I was going to extend them and then run it to wherever I mount the rectifier so I can tuck it up under the dash, out of harms way. Does that make sense? I haven't really looked at it to hard and I need to look at it again before I actually start to mess with it. I forget where exactly all the wires went when they came out of the harness under the dash.


----------



## superedge88

theeplaymaker said:


> Where the two wires come out of the harness for the lights under the dash they go right into the one light almost immediately. I was going to cut that off as my AC source for the rectifier and then run the DC leads back to that first light that then parallels over to the second. Where they come out of the harness they are not even long enough to get terminals crimped on so that is why I was going to extend them and then run it to wherever I mount the rectifier so I can tuck it up under the dash, out of harms way. Does that make sense? I haven't really looked at it to hard and I need to look at it again before I actually start to mess with it. I forget where exactly all the wires went when they came out of the harness under the dash.


This makes sense, pictures help if you want more precise guidance / opinions.


----------



## theeplaymaker

Here is what I was trying to explain. The red wire going to the lights is the AC power and the green wire goes to a ground on the motor if I traced it right. Plan was to cut into them and mount the rectifier in between the two lights. Also I am still not 100% sure how you splice the caps in. I was looking at this at work and pictures don't show up, are there any pictures in this thread of the wiring of the caps? I know what they look like and how they work just want to make sure I do the best job I can once the rectifier arrives.


----------



## superedge88

theeplaymaker said:


> Here is what I was trying to explain. The red wire going to the lights is the AC power and the green wire goes to a ground on the motor if I traced it right. Plan was to cut into them and mount the rectifier in between the two lights. Also I am still not 100% sure how you splice the caps in. I was looking at this at work and pictures don't show up, are there any pictures in this thread of the wiring of the caps? I know what they look like and how they work just want to make sure I do the best job I can once the rectifier arrives.


Splice the cap(s) in as if it was a battery, so connect from rectifier + and - then from the capacitor + and - to the leds.


----------



## J_ph

warm vs cool light?

Are warm LEDs of the same wattage less bright? Do you find that the higher kelvin (more blue) better or worse in snow. I just tried a direct replacement LED lamp which was close but not as bright. But even so I was biased to the warmer color of the incandescent.

what are your thoughts on the color of the lamps?

Also, the LED that I used to replace a 1141 bulb BA15s base, was listed as 4w ac/dc and used 126 SMD LEDs of a current style. They must be including some electronics to control the flicker because there was none visible. 

Are any of the Cree 10w spot/work lights like this photo built with components to reduce flicker?


----------



## Coby7

I personnally prefer the whiter light just as it turns to blue, so around 5300-5800°K. You are definitely into the bluish tint at 6000°K. On my cars I run 5300°K when I can find them. Most of these lights are designed for boats and motorcycles and input voltage ranges from 10-30V. Here are typical specs for one.


Operating Voltage: 10-30V DC
Waterproof rate: IP 67
Beam Pattern: Flood beam,Spot beam
Color Temperature: 6000K (pure white)
Material: Diecast aluminum housing
Lens material: PMMA lens
Mounting Bracket: Stainless Steel
Theoretical Lumens Output: 1400 LM
LED Power: 18W (6pcs*3w CREE high intensity LEDs )


----------



## J_ph

btw, your Yamaha is outstanding! 

It seems like most LEDs either go too warm or too cool, here's the fixture that I'd really like to mount on my snowthrower:


----------



## superedge88

J_ph said:


> warm vs cool light?
> 
> Are warm LEDs of the same wattage less bright? Do you find that the higher kelvin (more blue) better or worse in snow. I just tried a direct replacement LED lamp which was close but not as bright. But even so I was biased to the warmer color of the incandescent.
> 
> what are your thoughts on the color of the lamps?
> 
> Also, the LED that I used to replace a 1141 bulb BA15s base, was listed as 4w ac/dc and used 126 SMD LEDs of a current style. They must be including some electronics to control the flicker because there was none visible.
> 
> Are any of the Cree 10w spot/work lights like this photo built with components to reduce flicker?


The cree light you posted does not come with any rectification, very few floodlights that I have found do.
The Kelvin temperature is VERY relative. Home bulbs, compared to car bulbs compared to aquarium lighting etc. all can vary quite a bit as far as what they'll call 6000K, 10,000K etc. As a general rule, if the LED light is listed as White you should assume that there is a touch of blue to the light. The color rendering of a "white" LED light is typically not as good as a Warm LED light. Warm LED lights are pretty darn close to the yellow light of and incandescent and are better at color rendering to our eyes since our eyes have evolved to utilize this color temperature of light. Color rendering is not very important in a snowblower light, after all, everything is white as snow when you are blowing. I actually prefer the White LED lights for snowblowing because it is very bright, and very noticeable when folks are driving by the end of the driveway which can keep you a little bit safer.
It is not difficult to wire up a rectifier for your situation, if you need help just ask questions.


----------



## Coby7

The Kelvin scale is a set scale 4300°K is daylight and is predertimed by it's emmited wavelenght. Different people might perceive it as a different color depending on their eye's acuity, colorblind people need no explanation. So setting the temperature of an emitting Diode is not done by color but rather measured by a wavelenght measuring meter. Photographers used these. Color temperature meter.

The only reason I prefer 5300°K is because it makes whites more visible like lettering on signs, deer chest & tail and of course the side line on the road. Very important. None of these will be a factor in your yard of course and you don't want too bright either or you will wash out any edges giving contour to your work.


The color your eye is most sensitive to is yellow towards the green around 3200°K but not a lot of yellow with snow so I'm still going with white as a good source of light in the snow. I assume that's why Yamaha went with white LEDs.


----------



## J_ph

>I prefer 5300°K 

That's actually quite close to the 5500K that is used by the photo industry for standard daylight. It's a good number use for neutral white, but I find that the LEDs tend to go much bluer than than my preference. I'd be happy anything in that neighborhood.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> The Kelvin scale is a set scale 4300°K is daylight and is predertimed by it's emmited wavelenght. Different people might perceive it as a different color depending on their eye's acuity, colorblind people need no explanation. So setting the temperature of an emitting Diode is not done by color but rather measured by a wavelenght measuring meter. Photographers used these. Color temperature meter.
> 
> The only reason I prefer 5300°K is because it makes whites more visible like lettering on signs, deer chest & tail and of course the side line on the road. Very important. None of these will be a factor in your yard of course and you don't want too bright either or you will wash out any edges giving contour to your work.
> 
> 
> The color your eye is most sensitive to is yellow towards the green around 3200°K but not a lot of yellow with snow so I'm still going with white as a good source of light in the snow. I assume that's why Yamaha went with white LEDs.


This is all assuming that they are actually using a photometer to "rate" the bulbs. The scale itself is pretty straight forward, but within different industries the rating is VERY relative. A metal halide aquarium bulb that is 10,000k is very white with nary a hint of blue. An HID bulb for you car that is rated as 10,000k has a ton of blue. Kelvin ratings are sadly only as honest as the company that stamps it on the bulb.


----------



## Coby7

Unfortunately your right, some companies do intentionally misrepresent their product because consumers think that the higher °K number the brighter the light which is not the case. A 100W 4300°K has about 40% more visible light than the same wattage 6000°K. So in a perfect world with all honest people consumers would better understand and would be able to make better choices. I like 5300°K because to me and my eyes it seems to be right of the verge at turning blue. If they made 5000°K I would probably get those but the closest I found were these.


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## Coby7

I just ordered the light which I posted specs for previously. I will do some comparitive test when it is delivered. Since I have a light meter I'll also do a brightness test at 1 metre. The only thing that I hope is that the power cord is long enough that I don't have to splice it. Lenght is not specified.


----------



## J_ph

If you own photoshop and a camera that can shoot in RAW format you can approximate the color temp without a color meter.

I just purchased a 2 pack of those headband/headlight LEDs from Costco for $10 because I want to look even more ridiculous when I'm out in the middle of the night with my snowthrower 

I actually purchased them to help out with some minor plumbing projects, but they are surprisingly good. I may just give them a try in the outdoors!


----------



## SumDumJerk

I put 2 of these Cree's on my Craftsman.....the cord was 12-14 inches If I had to guess....2 of them run very bright on a 9hp Tecumseh


----------



## Coby7

Does your craftman have a battery for electric start?


----------



## J_ph

I found the following information about the current MTD 357cc, would this change any of the instructions that you have for installing an LED light system? Do the installed diodes eliminate the need for the additional bridge or do all stators include diodes to run DC halogen bulbs, but still need an additional rectifier to smooth it out further for LEDs? There are 2 leads from the stator, why do they test one wire for AC and the other for DC? Is half the system DC? thanks in advance...



> The charging system used on MTD engines consists of three
> components, the rotor, stator and the rectifier….
> 
> Rectifier: A set of four diodes that convert the AC
> current into DC current. The rectifier is built into the
> stator and it is not serviceable.
> 
> Set the multimeter to read AC voltage. Back probe the red wire of the charger harness. The multimeter should read 17 - 26Vdc
> 
> Back probe the red wire of the charger harness. Back probe the yellow wire in the charger harness with the red (+) lead of the multimeter. The multimeter should read a voltage of 13 - 18Vac


pg 78 - 

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD...-78-277cc-83-357cc-90-420cc-Repair-Manual.pdf


----------



## Coby7

The bridge rectifier he's talking about converts a sinusoidal wave to DC but without a large capacitor you will have AC riding on the DC above the battery Voltage. Let me see If I can find drawings, if not I'll draw it myself.


----------



## J_ph

thanks, this unit uses an AC starter motor so there's no battery, but there are 2 separate leads, one is intended for heated grips and the other is for the halogen light. Not sure if this makes any difference...

Also, I do see that a new Craftsmen ships with an LED lamp, and uses the same motor but I can't find any parts manuals to see what they used.

33" Gas Snow Blower: Clear Your Drive With Power from Sears


----------



## Coby7

Okay couldn't find clear enough drawings so did these on Paint.

What comes out of the stator is AC voltage. This means it has positive and negative voltage alternating and passing through zero volts at each half cycle or twice through one periode.



Once it passes through the 4 diodes (bridge) it get's fully rectified and you get this wave now DC with AC component but not going negative anymore.



Now when you add the battery in the circuit you will get a DC component (drawn here in green) but will still have some AC riding on top of the battery and this is what charges your battery.



If you have any questions just ask.


----------



## Coby7

J_ph said:


> thanks, this unit uses an AC starter motor so there's no battery, but there are 2 separate leads, one is intended for heated grips and the other is for the halogen light. Not sure if this makes any difference...
> 
> Also, I do see that a new Craftsmen ships with an LED lamp, and uses the same motor but I can't find any parts manuals to see what they used.


You are correct and LED light doesn't need a battery but it does need DC. Heating elements on the other hand can be heated by AC or DC same as an incandescent bulb. If you slow the engine enough you will see LED flicker because of the AC riding on the DC unless regulated by light circuitry.


----------



## J_ph

> Okay couldn't find clear enough drawings so did these on Paint.


amazing... I don't really understand it but being able to draw these is still amazing! Looks like I will need some time to dedicate to understanding this before venturing forward.


----------



## J_ph

Would the setup as-is from this stator/rectifier be OK to test an LED lamp without an additional smoothing cap and/or bridge, or would it likely damage an LED?

Here's the page that shows them testing the 2 wires, yellow is test as AC and the Red is test as DC.


----------



## Coby7

Depending on the input voltage of your LED light you should be good. The one I posted earlier had an input voltage of "Operating Voltage: 10-30V DC"


----------



## SumDumJerk

has electric start....no battery....This was the stripped down model Sears had...I had to replace the flywheel and add the stator. Parts bought on ebay.
I watched a lot of youtube videos on flywheel removal and replacement, that was a huge help.


----------



## superedge88

J_ph said:


> I found the following information about the current MTD 357cc, would this change any of the instructions that you have for installing an LED light system? Do the installed diodes eliminate the need for the additional bridge or do all stators include diodes to run DC halogen bulbs, but still need an additional rectifier to smooth it out further for LEDs? There are 2 leads from the stator, why do they test one wire for AC and the other for DC? Is half the system DC? thanks in advance...
> 
> 
> 
> pg 78 -
> 
> http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD...-78-277cc-83-357cc-90-420cc-Repair-Manual.pdf


Coby seems to have answered some of your questions already. 
There is no rectification for a halogen bulb needed because incandescent bulbs don't need rectification.
The craftsman that you linked to may or may not use a rectifier for the LED bulbs. It was found by a forum member that on a new snapper snowblower there was no rectification on the stock LED light and it flickered badly because of this.


----------



## Coby7

superedge88 said:


> t was found by a forum member that on a new snapper snowblower there was no rectification on the stock LED light and it flickered badly because of this.


LEDs won't light on the negative half duty cycle of the AC so it will flicker. Also you may damage the LED unless it has reverse voltage protection such as a diode or regulator.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> LEDs won't light on the negative half duty cycle of the AC so it will flicker. Also you may damage the LED unless it has reverse voltage protection such as a diode or regulator.


Who are you responding to?


----------



## Coby7

Sorry should have quoted, it was to your last sentence.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> Sorry should have quoted, it was to your last sentence.


That's what I though, I was confused because I've covered that earlier in this thread.


----------



## J_ph

Do all stators have a rectifier builtin? below is from the manual



> Rectifier: A set of four diodes that convert the AC
> current into DC current. The rectifier is built into the
> stator and it is not serviceable.


I'm still wondering why they are metering in volts for one of the leads from the stator and in DC for the other?

thanks again.


----------



## superedge88

J_ph said:


> Do all stators have a rectifier builtin? below is from the manual
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still wondering why they are metering in volts for one of the leads from the stator and in DC for the other?
> 
> thanks again.


One wire is measuring as AC the other is measuring as DC. The AC circuit is for your headlight, the DC circuit is typically for charging a battery. The DC circuit has rectification built in to the unit.


----------



## J_ph

You are correct they run the headlight with the AC side and since this snowthrower doesn't have a battery, they use the DC circuit for the heated grips. Do grips normally need a DC circuit?

I was going to try and change the on/off rocker to a 3 way and see if I can run an LED directly on this line without the additional bridge rectifier.... what do you think? The new switch would just toggle between the heated grips/off/LED light.


----------



## Coby7

Heated grips would not need DC and they may do this to reduce the amount of AC on the line. You already know Capacitors will filter A/C but what you may not know is that inductance will also filter A/C and at these currents maybe more efficiently. Heating coils have a certain resistance and for a reason, resistance causes heat, but it can't do this without inductance and inductance filters A/C. What I'm saying is they probably do this on purpose to remove flicker on the DC output. It's a theory nothing more on my side.

Here is what the output expected voltage would look like if they would use the heated handles to filter the voltage 



Better DC and less A/C riding on DC


----------



## Coby7

So I guess to answer your question the answer is no don't put in a switch, let the heated handgrips filter the voltage so you have less flicker at your LED lights. LEDs probably draw 1/10 of the current of what the heated handlebars do so don't worry about burning fuses or over draining the stator.


----------



## J_ph

Just when I think I may have a manageable task that I can handle, I seem to wade back into the deep end of the pool


----------



## Coby7

Listen before you venture into something you no nothing about and are afraid to go ahead PM me and I will gladly coach you through it. Don't worry I'm old but not dead yet.


----------



## J_ph

thanks! it's always good to learn new things. I'll spend a little time trying to digest this first, if I do get into a bind I'll let you know.

regards..


----------



## Coby7

If it helps this is what the wave would look like if you added a huge capacitor. Basically the same as turning on handlebar heaters but reversed.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> If it helps this is what the wave would look like if you added a huge capacitor. Basically the same as turning on handlebar heaters but reversed.


So maybe you can answer this Coby. With these units that have an AC and a DC circuit can you have different loads on either of the circuits as long as you are staying under the amperage of the stator? I have never had a unit that had both an AC and a DC circuit, so I don't know exactly the type of animal they and the flexibility or lack there of with wiring loads to it.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> So I guess to answer your question the answer is no don't put in a switch, let the heated handgrips filter the voltage so you have less flicker at your LED lights. LEDs probably draw 1/10 of the current of what the heated handlebars do so don't worry about burning fuses or over draining the stator.


The heated handlebar grips that I am familiar with run at about 3 amps. To light up things pretty well you're probably wanting at least about 18-21 watts of LED lighting, which puts the lighting at drawing about 1 amp. What is the stator rated at for amperage?


----------



## J_ph

I can't find any specs other than this reference to the model number info, I can take a look this weekend.


----------



## J_ph

Oops... now that I read over my own post. I'm guessing that it will only show a number 1 for recoil starter. Any other place to look for the stator amperage?


----------



## superedge88

J_ph said:


> Oops... now that I read over my own post. I'm guessing that it will only show a number 1 for recoil starter. Any other place to look for the stator amperage?


Most likely you would have to call the manufacturer to find out.


----------



## J_ph

the installation manual for the heated grips says:



> Compatible snow throwers will have engines with a dual 3A/5A or 20W/20W split
> alternator output lead coming from under the engine’s blower housing.


Even though the model number might not indicate it because it has a recoil starter this seems to match up to the dual circuit with one side rectified? Possibly the line with the diodes would be reduced to 3A?


----------



## J_ph

page 11 of this PDF shows a dual circuit with the 3A/5A setup (5A has a regulator) -

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us...ons/Engine/PDFs/alternator_specifications.pdf


----------



## Coby7

superedge88 said:


> So maybe you can answer this Coby7. With these units that have an AC and a DC circuit can you have different loads on either of the circuits as long as you are staying under the amperage of the stator? I have never had a unit that had both an AC and a DC circuit, so I don't know exactly the type of animal they and the flexibility or lack there of with wiring loads to it.


 They appear to be two different coils so I imagine yes is the answer. It's not one or the other.


----------



## Shredsled

Coby7 said:


> I just ordered the light which I posted specs for previously. I will do some comparitive test when it is delivered. Since I have a light meter I'll also do a brightness test at 1 metre. The only thing that I hope is that the power cord is long enough that I don't have to splice it. Lenght is not specified.




I have two of these same lights as side floods on my truck. Do yourself a favor and disassemble first and apply rtv sealant. They will fill up with water. Not on par with the Rigid Ind. products, but can't complain for a tenth of the price.
Also, the cords are about a foot long if I recall correctly. 
I'd rather find some with the 5w or 10w chips instead of the 3w like those above.
I am looking to mount something similar, but round (for OEM style aesthetics only) to my new to me HS1132TAS. I was going to try to fit a small 10w into the OEM halogen housing, but this may not work out for me.
Glad I found this thread, I was ready to just hook up two wires to two wires and give it a go. I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to electronicals...


----------



## superedge88

Shredsled said:


> I have two of these same lights as side floods on my truck. Do yourself a favor and disassemble first and apply rtv sealant. They will fill up with water. Not on par with the Rigid Ind. products, but can't complain for a tenth of the price.
> Also, the cords are about a foot long if I recall correctly.
> I'd rather find some with the 5w or 10w chips instead of the 3w like those above.
> I am looking to mount something similar, but round (for OEM style aesthetics only) to my new to me HS1132TAS. I was going to try to fit a small 10w into the OEM halogen housing, but this may not work out for me.
> Glad I found this thread, I was ready to just hook up two wires to two wires and give it a go. I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to electronicals...


Thanks for the feedback on those lights, they look very cool, and I had thought about trying them, now I won't if they need to be glued up in order to keep them water tight.
If you have any questions about the wiring of components please ask, I try to keep a close eye on this thread to answer questions quickly.
Again, thanks for the feedback on those lights! It's that kind of feedback that makes this thread so valuable.


----------



## Shredsled

Oh I WILL have questions, lol! Thanks for the generosity with the knowledge.

And I definitely didn't mean to completely turn anyone off to those lights, was just a heads up beforegetting wet. For only about $20/ light (paid $39.99 on amazon for a pair) it's hard to go wrong. Everyone should have rtv around, and took me about 20min to disassemble and seal while watching a football game! A lot of these cheap low QC products from overseas can easily be made decent if care is taken by the end user to make sure assembly was done properly before using.


----------



## Coby7

These are actually recommended for boats. I guess in China boats don't run in water.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> These are actually recommended for boats. I guess in China boats don't run in water.


I almost spit my water on the computer screen.


----------



## Shredsled

Haha, hey you can't blame China, it was probably an American company who sent production there, then they just started selling them out the side door without a brand name... I've never seen these marketed for boats though, typically the marine application ones are white for whatever reason...


----------



## Akview

Have some parts ready to wire-up but have a couple specific questions.

#1. 2X 10w Cree lights (.75 amps 9-24 volts)
#2. 1 amp fuse
#3. 2X axial capacitors mine are (2200 uf 35WVDC maximum)
#4. Recifier (25 amps 50 volts) radio shack part 276-1185
#5. Five amp fast blow fuse
#6. Stator and of course ground. 

Question#1: Does the 1 amp fuse go between the lights and the capacitors or or should it be Lights/capacitors them 1 amp fuse? 

Question #2. Locally I couldn't find the same rated capacitors and rectifiers that many are using here. Any problems with the ones I have acquired?

Thank you!


----------



## KpaxFAQ

Akview said:


> Have some parts ready to wire-up but have a couple specific questions.
> 
> #1. 2X 10w Cree lights (.75 amps 9-24 volts)
> #2. 1 amp fuse
> #3. 2X axial capacitors mine are (2200 uf 35WVDC maximum)
> #4. Recifier (25 amps 50 volts) radio shack part 276-1185
> #5. Five amp fast blow fuse
> #6. Stator and of course ground.
> 
> Question#1: Does the 1 amp fuse go between the lights and the capacitors or or should it be Lights/capacitors them 1 amp fuse?
> 
> Question #2. Locally I couldn't find the same rated capacitors and rectifiers that many are using here. Any problems with the ones I have acquired?
> 
> Thank you!


The caps are fine, the full wave bridge rectifier is good. As far as the fuse I've always put them in line of the positive side of the incoming power. So that would be before your power supply and lights. 

Microfahrad value of cap is very flexible, as long as they are 35V rated or higher you're good to go. The voltage rating is the highest voltage they are rated at for continuous operation. So a 50V, 100V and so on would work fine as well because you're well under the max rated voltage. You can run into problems in some application if they are for instance 700V rated caps with only 10V running on them but I doubt anyone will be putting something like that into this application

In an audio amplifier, I usually try to use a cap who's max rated voltage is 50% higher then the actual working voltage of the circuit. Some instances it ends up being closer to the max rating such as a high voltage power supply but that's usually my goal.


----------



## Coby7

Shredsled said:


> Haha, hey you can't blame China, it was probably an American company who sent production there, then they just started selling them out the side door without a brand name... I've never seen these marketed for boats though, typically the marine application ones are white for whatever reason...


Did you know that if you're a foreign country to China and decide you want to contract out to Chine for manufacturing of goods that you drop all hold on any Patent. China does not recognize any patent registration. I buy my stepper motors from the chinese company that lost the tender to GM. Yet they made the better motor. GM went for the cheaper tender and frankly they lost millions on that one, because they had to warranty the clusters until january first 2013. I know I'm of topic slightly but all this to say that maybe the same quality is not there but if I only need to squirt a bit of RTV in a $30 light as oppose to buying the same light from the US seller at $249 that's manufactured in the same plant with the same possible leakage, well I'll take my chances. First thing I'm going to do is submerge it in water, if it doesn't leak then I'll through it in a bag of rice over night and set it up the next day. If it leaks I'll take it apart a silicon the darn thing until it meets my specs.


----------



## Coby7

Akview said:


> #1. 2X 10w Cree lights (.75 amps 9-24 volts)
> #2. 1 amp fuse
> Question#1: Does the 1 amp fuse go between the lights and the capacitors or should it be Lights/capacitors then 1 amp fuse?


I would up the fuse to 2 amps because your lamps are rated at .75 amp each. LEDs don't have a current surge like incadescent bulbs so a 2 amp fuse should hold. Fuse has to be closest to source before bridge and capacitor because if either of these goes bad and shorts out you want the fuse to protect your power source.


----------



## Akview

Thank you KpaxFAQ and Coby7! 

Coby7,Im still wrapping my head around the fuse issue. My apologies and thank you for the guidance. please let me know if this plan isn't sufficient.

*In order*:

#1. two lights
#2. two (2) amp fuses. One on each light power wire.
#3. Two axial capacitors wired together.
#4. One bridge rectifier
#5. One 5 amp fuse
#6. Stator and ground.

Thanks again!


----------



## Akview

Mounting on Honda 728

In an effort to give back a bit. My light mounting may appeal to others with Honda snowblowers. In an effort to be efficient and reduce excess modifications I came up with this.

Steps:
1.Remove the 6M side screw and replace with a 2+ inch threaded version. 
2. Purchase 1inch rubber stopper from Lowes or Home Depo.
3.Drill 7/32 hole through stopper.
4.Mount light bracket,washer and stopper on 2+ inch threaded 6M bolt (SS of course).
5.Screw in these pieces where original short 6M screw came out.

Wiring of course is another story....


----------



## Coby7

You don't need 3 fuses, only need one 2 amp fuse to protect stator power.


----------



## Shredsled

Looks good Akview!
You get much vibration with the lights while moving?


----------



## Akview

Thanks Coby7! Yeah I believe my confusion has developed due to trying to pattern a system from the guys that are using 4 lights and or heated grips. Considering I will only have two lights and no grips, the one 2 amp fuse will surely be easier to wire.
Thank you again!!!

Shredsled, thanks. vibration is of course why I have used the rubber stoppers. Unfortunately I don't have the lights wired so I have not been able to test it.


----------



## db9938

AK, nice job. The only thing that I might suggest, would be washers in-between the nut to stopper interface. This would prevent the nuts from eating their way into the washer, and spread the load throughout the entire face of the stopper.


----------



## Akview

db9938, thanks. I agree, It does need a washer there! Good catch.


----------



## db9938

Hey, that's what we are here for!

Light on, and keep the knowledge flowing!


----------



## ronyschak

*spot or flood?*

I think I have decided on Tuff led lights.... my question is to get the 30degree spot or the 60degree flood lights. Will the 30 degree spot give me enough side light to light the area around the snow blower? 
Or should I do the flood version?

Round LED Work Light - 4 Inch 27 Watt - Spot : Tuff Led Lights

thanks


----------



## superedge88

ronyschak said:


> I think I have decided on Tuff led lights.... my question is to get the 30degree spot or the 60degree flood lights. Will the 30 degree spot give me enough side light to light the area around the snow blower?
> Or should I do the flood version?
> 
> Round LED Work Light - 4 Inch 27 Watt - Spot : Tuff Led Lights
> 
> thanks


Have you verified gower many amps your stator can put out? usually I recommend flood lights but with that style of light you should get plenty of side spill. those lights that you linked to are high wattage and you better make sure that your state or can handle that wattage.


----------



## Shredsled

ronyschak said:


> I think I have decided on Tuff led lights.... my question is to get the 30degree spot or the 60degree flood lights. Will the 30 degree spot give me enough side light to light the area around the snow blower?
> Or should I do the flood version?
> 
> Round LED Work Light - 4 Inch 27 Watt - Spot : Tuff Led Lights
> 
> thanks


Unless you're hitting about 30-40+mph, I don't think I'd ever recommend a spot or narrow beam for the application.





superedge88 said:


> Have you verified gower many amps your stator can put out? usually I recommend flood lights but with that style of light you should get plenty of side spill. those lights that you linked to are high wattage and you better make sure that your state or can handle that wattage.



Isn't that the identical light you just put on yours?


----------



## ronyschak

thanks superedge

I have an Ariens platinum deluxe 30" from 2011 and I have not verified what the output is.... I do have heated hand grips on this model


----------



## superedge88

Shredsled said:


> Unless you're hitting about 30-40+mph, I don't think I'd ever recommend a spot or narrow beam for the application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't that the identical light you just put on yours?


It is the same light, but Rony was referring to these lights in plural, so I assumed that he was thinking of using two of them which would be over 50 watts, and be over 3 amps which would be the highest rated stator that most manufacturers put on a snowblower.
The light that Rony linked spills a lot of side light for a spot light, so I would say it is fine. Typically I don't recommend spot lights on snowblowers, but this light is the exception.


----------



## Normex

Superedge, wouldn't it be easier to talk in Lumens capacity since it it a calculation of much light is outputted?
My 27 watt Led light outputs 2160 lumens and by gosh it really lights the front and sides, I would say easily for 80 ft plus in front.


----------



## Shredsled

superedge88 said:


> It is the same light, but Rony was referring to these lights in plural, so I assumed that he was thinking of using two of them which would be over 50 watts, and be over 3 amps which would be the highest rated stator that most manufacturers put on a snowblower.
> The light that Rony linked spills a lot of side light for a spot light, so I would say it is fine. Typically I don't recommend spot lights on snowblowers, but this light is the exception.


ahh yeah I hear ya. 
I haven't used that light so didn't know about its spread.




Normex said:


> Superedge, wouldn't it be easier to talk in Lumens capacity since it it a calculation of much light is outputted?
> My 27 watt Led light outputs 2160 lumens and by gosh it really lights the front and sides, I would say easily for 80 ft plus in front.



Lumen output is so easily skewed and exaggerated. And that really doesn't mean much relating to power consumption, which seems to be more important here. So many variables relating to the chip used, the reflector, and the lense, etc...
I have several flashlights that are rated at "1000 lumens", as well as a mountain biking headlamp at "1000 lumen", and the mtb light far far outshines the flashlights. I also have a 1500 lumen serfas mtb light, and it outshines my Rigid Industries 20" light bar in distance...


----------



## Normex

I guess it's true if most are unscrupulous manufacturers then it would be the same as the horsepower debacle.


----------



## Coby7

Lumens are measured at the focal point at 1 meter and the whole lumen output is so subjective. I've adopted one simple rule that seems to average different manufacturer interpretations of lumen. A 1 watt LED will put out ±10 Watt equivalent incandescent @ 1 meter so a 10 watt will put out ±100 watt equivalent. This as been my rule and not a written rule.


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Superedge, wouldn't it be easier to talk in Lumens capacity since it it a calculation of much light is outputted?
> My 27 watt Led light outputs 2160 lumens and by gosh it really lights the front and sides, I would say easily for 80 ft plus in front.


I was only speaking to power consumption in that post. Lumens would be more accurate than watts in reference to light output though.


----------



## J_ph

Lume Cube | Video Light & Flash for GoPro & iPhone

It's only a matter of time before you have an app for your snow thrower lighting


----------



## Akview

*Wiring Box Detail*

Again, thank you to all that have guided me along the way. Now that my lights have been mounted I have started into the wiring. 

I would appreciate if any with experience gave my layout a look over..

For mounting the capacitors: I don't know if it is needed but I glued the capacitors to a hard piece of rubber and then used electrical sealant over the length of the leads to reduce the possibility of a short. 

Thank you!


----------



## superedge88

Your wiring looks good.


----------



## Motor City

I'm curious, whay did you use 2 capacitor's? I thought everybody was using only 1.


----------



## Coby7

Gives him 4400ʯf of filtering instead of 2200ʯf.


----------



## superedge88

Motor City said:


> I'm curious, whay did you use 2 capacitor's? I thought everybody was using only 1.


The reason is to give him a back up capacitor.


----------



## paedbo

ive been using these,

http://www.wayjun.com/Datasheet/Led/LED-Driver-LD003-3X3W.pdf

They are very small. They have a built in rectifier and they are constant current. They sell them in different configurations. Usually I just go to ebay and buy a bunch of 3w Leds. 

The one displayed above you would use 3 pieces of 3 watt bulbs and wire them in series to the board. input voltage can be anywhere from 12 to 24v ac or dc so you can just wire it right up to the snow blower.


----------



## lebenfitti

What if I just bought the light off the Husqvarna ST3xx series and plugged it into the 24V AC lead on my Ariens?

Husqvarna P/N 581 68 42-01 

OEM Parts

Does it have the bridge rectifier and capacitors built in? If so, it's less than $30 and all I need is a bracket.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I don't think that headlight is anything but the LED and housing.


----------



## Coby7

lebenfitti said:


> What if I just bought the light off the Husqvarna ST3xx series and plugged it into the 24V AC lead on my Ariens?
> 
> Husqvarna P/N 581 68 42-01
> 
> OEM Parts
> 
> Does it have the bridge rectifier and capacitors built in? If so, it's less than $30 and all I need is a bracket.


We lack information, therefore can't help you...wish I could but a real bad guesser.


----------



## Shredsled

Anybody else happen to see on that abby forum (just found it on a Google search, haven't joined...) there is a user there who has claimed to hook up some trailer light called a Peterson Great White led work light to their Honda with nothing but direct replacement to stock wires...?


----------



## Akview

ShredSled, you speaking of this post? 

"O-K, the light kit that is sold as an 'Accessory' for the Honda Snowblowers comes with a standard 12 V sealed beam, like the old car headlights of yesteryear. But it IS Halogen as Honda says, a $10.00 dollar GE Par36 50 Watt bulb that puts out 300 Lumens. It is in fact manufactured for this and many other applications by a company named (PM) Peterson Manufacturing, (Vehicle Safety Light| LED Lights - Peterson Manufacturing Company) They list the light in its rubber weather and vibration resistant mount as a Model 507, and if you go to FoxTail Lights.com they sell it for about 30 bucks, without the special HONDA snowblower bracket you need to mount it to the Honda snowblower, for the kit that Honda sells that includes this expect to pay $ 60.00 buckaroos. Now IF, like me, You want to install a light more modern, capable and bright here's what you do. You again go to FoxTailLights.com, and buy the PM model 907 light with 10 LED Diodes to light your way and an estimated 100,000 hour durability and an output of 1000 Lumens . . . that light with the same rubber mount sells for $ 72.00 plus shipping and anything else they can add. 
The light kit, like the Commercial Skid Shoes is supplied with the electroplated zinc, Guaranteed to RUST in record time, bolts, nuts & washers. If you don't like rust on your new snowblower go to Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts, F911 Bolts and replace the HONDA QuickRust hardware with some Stainless Steel.

Incidentally the Peterson Manufacturing (PM) Technical rep said that the OEM accesory light they supply Honda, the 50watt 12V sealed bean requires 2.54 amps, the new LED unit needs just .51 amps to operate, so the extra power to run the switch is not going to be a problem. Just make sure the unit gets as good a ground contact as you can or it might not work. 

PM makes a stick-on reflective in either amber or red they call them "Spitfires", IMHO they are the brightest reflectors I've ever seen should anyone need such a thing."


----------



## Shredsled

Akview said:


> ShredSled, you speaking of this post?
> 
> "O-K, the light kit that is sold as an 'Accessory' for the Honda Snowblowers comes with a standard 12 V sealed beam, like the old car headlights of yesteryear. But it IS Halogen as Honda says, a $10.00 dollar GE Par36 50 Watt bulb that puts out 300 Lumens. It is in fact manufactured for this and many other applications by a company named (PM) Peterson Manufacturing, (Vehicle Safety Light| LED Lights - Peterson Manufacturing Company) They list the light in its rubber weather and vibration resistant mount as a Model 507, and if you go to FoxTail Lights.com they sell it for about 30 bucks, without the special HONDA snowblower bracket you need to mount it to the Honda snowblower, for the kit that Honda sells that includes this expect to pay $ 60.00 buckaroos. Now IF, like me, You want to install a light more modern, capable and bright here's what you do. You again go to FoxTailLights.com, and buy the PM model 907 light with 10 LED Diodes to light your way and an estimated 100,000 hour durability and an output of 1000 Lumens . . . that light with the same rubber mount sells for $ 72.00 plus shipping and anything else they can add.
> The light kit, like the Commercial Skid Shoes is supplied with the electroplated zinc, Guaranteed to RUST in record time, bolts, nuts & washers. If you don't like rust on your new snowblower go to Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts, F911 Bolts and replace the HONDA QuickRust hardware with some Stainless Steel.
> 
> Incidentally the Peterson Manufacturing (PM) Technical rep said that the OEM accesory light they supply Honda, the 50watt 12V sealed bean requires 2.54 amps, the new LED unit needs just .51 amps to operate, so the extra power to run the switch is not going to be a problem. Just make sure the unit gets as good a ground contact as you can or it might not work.
> 
> PM makes a stick-on reflective in either amber or red they call them "Spitfires", IMHO they are the brightest reflectors I've ever seen should anyone need such a thing."




Haha, yes that was it! I remember him rambling about rusty bolts...


----------



## superedge88

Drawing only. 51 amps makes it equivalent to basically one of the 9 watt Cree led floodlights that most people are using at least two of. So I wouldn't recommend using one of those, though if you aren't expecting much light you may be OK with it.


----------



## Akview

Hey Superedge88.. 

Got the lights my two Cree lights wired up yesterday...fired the machine up...and had lights...for about 20 seconds. Blew the 2 amp fuse. 

I was concerned that I somehow fried the lights but a check with a new fuse proved otherwise thankfully.

my plan is to try a 3amp fuse when I can get some. 

what do you think, does this indicate I have a problem?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Running LEDs you shouldn't have a 2 amp draw. Are the two lights the only thing you are running on that fuse ??

Can you post a link to the lights you are using ??


----------



## JRHAWK9

FWIW, I was also blowing fuses (and lights...lol) before I wired up my smoothing capacitors. Do you have capacitors inline?


----------



## Akview

These lights are the ones Im trying to run.. 

Yeah JRHAWK9 capacitors and rectifier....

I sure don't want to fry the lights...

2X 10W Round Flood CREE LED Off Road Work Light Lamp 12V 24V Car Boat Bike 20W | eBay

edit: upped the fuse to 3 amps and it has held for a number of test runs.


----------



## superedge88

Akview said:


> These lights are the ones Im trying to run..
> 
> Yeah JRHAWK9 capacitors and rectifier....
> 
> I sure don't want to fry the lights...
> 
> 2X 10W Round Flood CREE LED Off Road Work Light Lamp 12V 24V Car Boat Bike 20W | eBay


I'm not sure why you'd be blowing a 2 amp fuse, according to your diagram it all looks correct to me. Check for pinched wires or shorts.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Did it blow while you were idling or running at a good speed ?? The higher the speed the more voltage the system produces and the lower the amperage you have in the circuit.
At 14 volts you'd be running a little under 1.5 amps but at 10 volts (idle?) you would be hitting 2 amps and blowing the fuse.


----------



## superedge88

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Did it blow while you were idling or running at a good speed ?? The higher the speed the more voltage the system produces and the lower the amperage you have in the circuit.
> At 14 volts you'd be running a little under 1.5 amps but at 10 volts (idle?) you would be hitting 2 amps and blowing the fuse.


Good point!


----------



## Akview

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Did it blow while you were idling or running at a good speed ?? The higher the speed the more voltage the system produces and the lower the amperage you have in the circuit.
> At 14 volts you'd be running a little under 1.5 amps but at 10 volts (idle?) you would be hitting 2 amps and blowing the fuse.



Yeah it blew at idle. With the above logic, it seems I need to up my fuse size?


----------



## superedge88

Akview said:


> Kiss4aFrog said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did it blow while you were idling or running at a good speed ?? The higher the speed the more voltage the system produces and the lower the amperage you have in the circuit.
> At 14 volts you'd be running a little under 1.5 amps but at 10 volts (idle?) you would be hitting 2 amps and blowing the fuse.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it blew at idle. With the above logic, it seems I need to up my fuse size?
Click to expand...

What does your voltage test at when idling?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

It surprised me when I ran the numbers but I was thinking how the lights are always dim or just barely come on at idle. I didn't take a reading just tossed 10 volts into the calculator but I can see how it would pop it.

You could put a 2amp back in and try it at a higher speed and see but in the end I guess you'll need to go to 3 to keep it from blowing at idle as you'll likely sooner or later throttle it down with the headlight ON to do something.


----------



## Akview

superedge88 said:


> What does your voltage test at when idling?


Superedge88 I haven't done a voltage test.


----------



## Akview

Kiss4aFrog said:


> It surprised me when I ran the numbers but I was thinking how the lights are always dim or just barely come on at idle. I didn't take a reading just tossed 10 volts into the calculator but I can see how it would pop it.
> 
> You could put a 2amp back in and try it at a higher speed and see but in the end I guess you'll need to go to 3 to keep it from blowing at idle as you'll likely sooner or later throttle it down with the headlight ON to do something.


Thanks Kiss4aFrog, I will try both and report back.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Please do. It's something I'd likely be scratching my head about on my machine too if it blew 

And like you I'd run the test at low speed.


----------



## dbert

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Did it blow while you were idling or running at a good speed ?? The higher the speed the more voltage the system produces and the lower the amperage you have in the circuit.
> At 14 volts you'd be running a little under 1.5 amps but at 10 volts (idle?) you would be hitting 2 amps and blowing the fuse.


K4aF. I'm not getting your math.
The load (resistance) isn't changing.
Same two lamps.
Say for the sake of conversation they were 5 ohms total.What would the current be at 10 volts vs 14 volts?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Well I've tried to explain it a few times and just ended up deleting it all.

Normal circuit with a fixed resistor then if you increase voltage the current has to increase. That's just ohms law, no way around it.

But lights are different as the resistance changes the harder they are driven. The problem I have is I'm not sure exactly how it works with an LED. I know how LEDs work but I've never asked or read anything about this variable in relation to LEDs.

I just used a calculator to input different voltages for the pair of lights at 20 watts and then posted the resulting amperage calculations. The fact that the calculations came out to explain the OPs problem made me just accept without really thinking about it. I guess testing with another 2 amp fuse at a faster speed and then if it doesn't blow and dripping it back to idle takes it out would prove the calculations to be correct.
Volts/Amps/Watts Converter


----------



## Coby7

dbert said:


> K4aF. I'm not getting your math.
> The load (resistance) isn't changing.
> Same two lamps.
> Say for the sake of conversation they were 5 ohms total.What would the current be at 10 volts vs 14 volts?


Most LED light assemblies have regulating circuitry that's why they can post specification like 10-30 volt input. The LED circuitry always gives 20Watts to the LEDs wether your at 10 or 30 volts the power remains constant. So If power remains constant and voltage fluctuates from 10 to 30 volts, stands to reason that current will fluctuate too inversely proportionnal. 

10 volts @ 2 amps
20 volts @ 1 amp
30 volts @ .6666666666666 amp

Like Kissafrog said it's ohms law.

My power supply only goes as high as 19 volts but you'll get the picture.







The light intensity remains the same.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> Most LED light assemblies have regulating circuitry that's why they can post specification like 10-30 volt input. The LED circuitry always gives 20Watts to the LEDs wether your at 10 or 30 volts the power remains constant. So If power remains constant and voltage fluctuates from 10 to 30 volts, stands to reason that current will fluctuate too inversely proportionnal.
> 
> 10 volts @ 2 amps
> 20 volts @ 1 amp
> 30 volts @ .6666666666666 amp
> 
> Like Kissafrog said it's ohms law.
> 
> My power supply only goes as high as 19 volts but you'll get the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The light intensity remains the same.


A well illustrated point!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

And a really nice power supply for playing around 
What is it ??


----------



## superedge88

This is the kind of stuff that drives me crazy. I posted this video below of my honda hs928 on youtube and some "power engineer 3rd class" starts posting in the comments section that I am wrong and that all snowblowers produce DC current. Trying to educate some folks is impossible.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

But you don't understand, they do produce DC


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Opps, forgot to add: Once they add a rectifier. 
And maybe a smoothing capacitor.


----------



## Coby7

Kiss4aFrog said:


> And a really nice power supply for playing around
> What is it ??


It's a HY1803DL 0-18 Volts up to 3 amps, perfect to do all the repairs I do. They also make a 0-30 Volts 5 amp but was overkill for my needs.

You can get them on ebay

Mastech Variable DC Power Supply HY1803D 0 18 V 0 3A | eBay


----------



## Coby7

superedge88 said:


> This is the kind of stuff that drives me crazy. I posted this video below of my honda hs928 on youtube and some "power engineer 3rd class" starts posting in the comments section that I am wrong and that all snowblowers produce DC current. Trying to educate some folks is impossible.


Well you are both wrong and right. Newer 928s have a rectified output while older 928s had a non-rectified output. Now the complication begins, although a rectified voltage is considered DC it still has an A/C component riding on it and why you have to add a capacitor to filter this A/C component. You will never get rid of it totally but you can bring it to the point your eye doesn't see it. As you can tell from your video your camera could still see the flicker when you came up close. This is caused by a resonant frequency between your camera scan rate and the flicker cause by the A/C component left riding on the DC.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> Well you are both wrong and right. Newer 928s have a rectified output while older 928s had a non-rectified output. Now the complication begins, although a rectified voltage is considered DC it still has an A/C component riding on it and why you have to add a capacitor to filter this A/C component. You will never get rid of it totally but you can bring it to the point your eye doesn't see it. As you can tell from your video your camera could still see the flicker when you came up close. This is caused by a resonant frequency between your camera scan rate and the flicker cause by the A/C component left riding on the DC.


The new 928's have a rectified headlight circuit? Please post a link to this information because this is the first I have heard of this.
You say that both of us are wrong and right- how is he correct in saying that all snowblowers produce DC on the headlight circuit? I can accept being wrong on a few models here and there, but I'll stand by my statement that 99% of snowblowers current and past have AC on their headlight circuit. 
I understand what you are saying about rectified DC still has a small amount of AC, I'm curious as to why a capacitor does not filter it all out-do you know why Coby? I like learning and welcome any insight.


----------



## Coby7

superedge88 said:


> I understand what you are saying about rectified DC still has a small amount of AC, I'm curious as to why a capacitor does not filter it all out-do you know why Coby? I like learning and welcome any insight.


A/C ripple is dependant on 3 things, the value of the capacitor in uf ( the larger the better) the A/C frequency (this is preset by engine speed ) because this is a variable in the RC constant formula and load (the heavier the load on the supply the higher the A/C ripple ) So somewhere there's a happy medium.


----------



## Shredsled

Coby7 said:


> Newer 928s have a rectified output




Is there a factory component that can be retrofitted to older models to convert and add this in?


----------



## Akview

Picked-up a a 3 AMP fuse, tossed it in and lights stay on. 
Stays lit at idle and at full throttle. 

Place a 2 amp back in for a quick check...if I throttle up, it stays working. Idle down and it blows. 

Just as Kiss4aFrog had suspected.

Project box closed up and mounted. 

Thanks guys!!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Glad I could help Akview 

Shredsled, only thing I can think of that would be factory would be to wire in a voltage regulator off a riding mower.


----------



## Shredsled

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Glad I could help Akview
> 
> Shredsled, only thing I can think of that would be factory would be to wire in a voltage regulator off a riding mower.


I was just wondering if maybe there were something that could be sourced from the Canadian HS models with the onboard batteries. Maybe not so easy without doing the complete conversion which I don't want.


----------



## RoyP

superedge88 said:


> This is the kind of stuff that drives me crazy. I posted this video below of my honda hs928 on youtube and some "power engineer 3rd class" starts posting in the comments section that I am wrong and that all snowblowers produce DC current. Trying to educate some folks is impossible.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZwebMaiyBY


I like your 3rd class mention....little Navy there


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Hey ! Be nice to the Navy. And don't call them squids. After all they are kind of like a cab service for the Marines.


----------



## MnJim

Can the capacitors be connected directly to the rectifier?

I have had all my components since last winter just havnt gotten around to installing, Cant make up my mind on where to install the light I like the Honda location ahead of the motor but cannot come up with a method of installing on my 2013 Ariens.


----------



## superedge88

MnJim said:


> Can the capacitors be connected directly to the rectifier?


Sure you can as long as it's connected to the DC output.


----------



## Coby7




----------



## liftoff1967

MnJim said:


> Can the capacitors be connected directly to the rectifier?
> 
> I have had all my components since last winter just havnt gotten around to installing, Cant make up my mind on where to install the light I like the Honda location ahead of the motor but cannot come up with a method of installing on my 2013 Ariens.


Jim, I have (1) set of my brackets left. They are black powder coated and drilled out for mounting to the handle bar bolts. Let me know if you have an interest. If you need a hand, let me know and if my schedule permits, I will give ya a hand, as I have done (3) of these conversions so far. I'm in Blaine also.


----------



## AverageJoe

OK might not be in the correct thread here and have not used my machine since last year but i seem to recall that the light was basically useless on my 24" Ariens Platinum.

I am wondering if there is a way to shim the light fixture to direct the beam down toward the surface being cleared? As i recall as of now it simply directs the light into the air well above the surface?

Thanks.....


----------



## Coby7




----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Averagejoe, you can always fabricate a small shield or hood to put between the light and your eyes if your headlight is one of those that's embedded in the dash and seems to toss light up into your face.


----------



## superedge88

AverageJoe said:


> OK might not be in the correct thread here and have not used my machine since last year but i seem to recall that the light was basically useless on my 24" Ariens Platinum.
> 
> I am wondering if there is a way to shim the light fixture to direct the beam down toward the surface being cleared? As i recall as of now it simply directs the light into the air well above the surface?
> 
> Thanks.....


please kindly create a dedicated thread for your question since it has nothing to do with upgrading your headlights to LED's.


----------



## MnJim

liftoff1967 said:


> Jim, I have (1) set of my brackets left. They are black powder coated and drilled out for mounting to the handle bar bolts. Let me know if you have an interest. If you need a hand, let me know and if my schedule permits, I will give ya a hand, as I have done (3) of these conversions so far. I'm in Blaine also.


 Have you a pic and a price of said brkts?

I have the wiring figured out and installed minus the lights thanks for the most generous offer.


----------



## liftoff1967

MnJim said:


> Have you a pic and a price of said brkts?.


Look at the bottom of page 19 of this thread and top of page 20. There is also the link to the your tube video in the middle of page 19. Sorry, but my little chrome book cannot hook in links, otherwise I would do so. 
I have been getting $30 for the pair.


----------



## MnJim

liftoff1967 said:


> Look at the bottom of page 19 of this thread and top of page 20. There is also the link to the your tube video in the middle of page 19. Sorry, but my little chrome book cannot hook in links, otherwise I would do so.
> I have been getting $30 for the pair.


 Thanks I will keep your brkts in mind as they do look nice, However I was hoping to get a higher mount nearer the stock height to get away from shadowing and light bounceback.


----------



## JSmith856

*2014 Ariens Hydro Pro (926517) 12v Keyed Start & LED*

I have a 2013/2014 Ariens HydroPro 32" with 12v Key Start. (926517)
I can turn on the halogen with the key in the "on" position, then it stays on when the blower is running.

The onboard 20w 12v Halogen bulb - is terrible.

The Halogen just can't output any safe working light for me as my vision has decreased from Diabetic complications. 

I want to just pop that bulb out (photos attached) and put in a LED bulb, however I don't know the socket type to do so. If I can find a 20w or equivalent 12v LED bulb I should be good to go - right? Does anyone know the lamp socket or connector type? I have looked at one from my car which is a Sylvania Silverstar H11 SU/2 and I connected that into the wiring harness and that works, but the actual socket doesn't fit into the factory housing so I'm going to assume it's another "H" style lamp, but I can't figure it out.

I don't believe I need to do the bridge rectifier method since the lights are powered by the 12v battery. However, I may not be fully understanding of this.

Now that I have solved that LED upgrade del lima on the factory socket, can I add in another LED bar to the dashboard that will work off of the 12v as well? Would you suggest I put in a relay to power up the LED bars? I have seen a few that I like and that people have put onto ATV's that I'd like to put as well, but I don't know if I need to wire in an automotive "Bosch" style relay 12v 40a or something like that... - is this overkill? 

I just want flicker free bright LED white light instead of the dingy 20a halogen on the unit.


----------



## superedge88

JSmith856 said:


> I have a 2013/2014 Ariens HydroPro 32" with 12v Key Start. (926517)
> I can turn on the halogen with the key in the "on" position, then it stays on when the blower is running.
> 
> The onboard 20w 12v Halogen bulb - is terrible.
> 
> The Halogen just can't output any safe working light for me as my vision has decreased from Diabetic complications.
> 
> I want to just pop that bulb out (photos attached) and put in a LED bulb, however I don't know the socket type to do so. If I can find a 20w or equivalent 12v LED bulb I should be good to go - right? Does anyone know the lamp socket or connector type? I have looked at one from my car which is a Sylvania Silverstar H11 SU/2 and I connected that into the wiring harness and that works, but the actual socket doesn't fit into the factory housing so I'm going to assume it's another "H" style lamp, but I can't figure it out.
> 
> I don't believe I need to do the bridge rectifier method since the lights are powered by the 12v battery. However, I may not be fully understanding of this.
> 
> Now that I have solved that LED upgrade del lima on the factory socket, can I add in another LED bar to the dashboard that will work off of the 12v as well? Would you suggest I put in a relay to power up the LED bars? I have seen a few that I like and that people have put onto ATV's that I'd like to put as well, but I don't know if I need to wire in an automotive "Bosch" style relay 12v 40a or something like that... - is this overkill?
> 
> I just want flicker free bright LED white light instead of the dingy 20a halogen on the unit.


You are correct, no bridge rectifier needed since you have a battery (assuming that the headlight is wired to that battery and not an output that is AC, test with a meter to make sure)
As far as the LED bulb version of what is in the existing headlight, just take that bulb in to a local automotive shop and they should be able to tell you what bulb it is and then you can do a search for an LED option. Keep in mind that some of the LED conversions of halogen bulbs are ONLY for novelty use and not to be used for actually lighting a path, they can sometimes be VERY dim.
The LED bar option is a fine option, which may be needed in conjunction with the LED that you want to put in the old headlight. I wouldn't wire it up with a relay, though you can if you'd like, it comes down to personal preference. I would try to keep all of the LED lighting under 1 amp total unless you verify that the charging circuit for the battery is more than 1 amp.


----------



## JSmith856

Thanks this simplifies a few things. 
I did verify that the voltage coming from the keyed on was 12v give or take the hand warmers being on. I tried to source the bulb on part master but nothing seems to show up other then "bulb" fits your model... no details on anything else.. BUT my sleuthing skills have lead me to the Dorman catalog and see a 2 wire which appear to be an 881/889 bulb that seems to be the one that I pulled out. I want it bright, so I need to probably also install a LED bar in conjunction with the factory LED. How do I determine what the amperage draw is on the light bar I intend to buy? Most are from China, and I'll pay way more to buy a good old USA made product - if that's such an animal anymore -do you guys have any models that fit the dash nicely in mind?

I'm also a bit confused how to check the charging specifications on the blower. How is this accomplished.


----------



## superedge88

JSmith856 said:


> Thanks this simplifies a few things.
> I did verify that the voltage coming from the keyed on was 12v give or take the hand warmers being on. I tried to source the bulb on part master but nothing seems to show up other then "bulb" fits your model... no details on anything else.. BUT my sleuthing skills have lead me to the Dorman catalog and see a 2 wire which appear to be an 881/889 bulb that seems to be the one that I pulled out. I want it bright, so I need to probably also install a LED bar in conjunction with the factory LED. How do I determine what the amperage draw is on the light bar I intend to buy? Most are from China, and I'll pay way more to buy a good old USA made product - if that's such an animal anymore -do you guys have any models that fit the dash nicely in mind?
> 
> I'm also a bit confused how to check the charging specifications on the blower. How is this accomplished.


If you are sure that it is 12v DC then you are good. There is an amperage calculator on the first post of this thread 
A lot of light bars draw too much amperage, so try to verify the amperage of the charging circuit before you try to find the perfect light bar.


----------



## Normex

JSmith856 said:


> How do I determine what the amperage draw is on the light bar I intend to buy? Most are from China, and I'll pay way more to buy a good old USA made product - if that's such an animal anymore -do you guys have any models that fit the dash nicely in mind?


To determine amperage draw you divide wattage / voltage

Check the Cree line of Leds but not sure if made in China or nor.

Sorry Superedge beat me to it.


----------



## Motor City

The bulbs are usually automotive fog lamp bulbs. Is their anything printed on the bulb? An example is an 886, which is a 18 watt bulb, with the same connector that your bulb uses.


----------



## JSmith856

Motor City said:


> The bulbs are usually automotive fog lamp bulbs. Is their anything printed on the bulb? An example is an 886, which is a 18 watt bulb, with the same connector that your bulb uses.


Nope, nothing is printed on it other then "12v 20a" I'm assuming it's an H27 or 881 "fog light bulb" due to the cross reference of the catalog and online research. I did plug in a H11 SU/2 from Sylvania Silverstar Ultra light and yes it lights up, much brighter, but didn't fit the housing. I believe those are a Halogen bulb too. 
I'm checking out Plasmaglow.com for some cool lights as well. Some seem to made or assembled in the USA. Always a fan of that if I can.


----------



## superedge88

JSmith856 said:


> Nope, nothing is printed on it other then "12v 20a" I'm assuming it's an H27 or 881 "fog light bulb" due to the cross reference of the catalog and online research. I did plug in a H11 SU/2 from Sylvania Silverstar Ultra light and yes it lights up, much brighter, but didn't fit the housing. I believe those are a Halogen bulb too.
> I'm checking out Plasmaglow.com for some cool lights as well. Some seem to made or assembled in the USA. Always a fan of that if I can.


The bulb says 12v 20a?


----------



## JSmith856

superedge88 said:


> The bulb says 12v 20a?


Negative 12v 20w - 20watts not amps..whoosh that'd be a sun if it was 20a!


----------



## Coby7

Just added a second LED lamp to fill in the shadow left by chute.


----------



## J_ph

did you make the wrap-around drift cutter light support? or is that a yamaha thing?


----------



## Coby7

It's the Yamaha drift cutter. It was thrown in to seal the deal. It's an option on the 24", standard on the 28" and 32".

http://www.yamaha-motor.ca/pna/deta...Id=19&subGroupId=31&categoryId=32&itemId=2627


----------



## JSmith856

JRHAWK9 said:


> That probably would be a good idea and have a friend that mentioned the same thing. I've used relays a bunch of times before but always to supply power to a higher power device so I didn't have to run all that power through a switch. I've never used them as I would in this situation.


So lets say you have a 12v battery and you are wanting to power up a 72w/12v LED light bar - would you put in a relay to make this happen? How would you wire this up? I think I over - ordered the light bar for this unit and I'm afraid I won't have enough power to utilize it fully.


----------



## Coby7

72 Watts will draw 6 amps from your system. Most charging system are 3 amps, 5 if your unit has handle warmers. Did you want to snowblow the snow or melt as you approach it? No need for a relay most switches can handle 10 amperes plus.


----------



## Shredsled

JSmith856 said:


> Most are from China, and I'll pay way more to buy a good old USA made product - if that's such an animal anymore




If you want US made LED bar, check out Rigid Industries. Highest quality housing and optics you can get, but you'll pay the price for them. I have some on one of my trucks... many of these Chinese knock-off light bars are getting close though, but the optics and QC/tolerances are just typically lacking.


I see a lot of people going for a brighter is better set-up, and to me that doesn't always seem to work out for the better, especially where there is blowing snow and glare and you'll just kill your own night vision with the washout and reflection back at you. 
I have some yellow film I may try to cover my lense in, but I haven't even gotten around to converting mine to LED yet! I know the yellow/amber lights help a lot on my vehicles in the snow (and dust/fog), vs. putting on the hid high-beams and feeling like I'm at ludicrous speed on spaceballs, lol.


----------



## Normex

JSmith856 said:


> So lets say you have a 12v battery and you are wanting to power up a 72w/12v LED light bar - would you put in a relay to make this happen? How would you wire this up? I think I over - ordered the light bar for this unit and I'm afraid I won't have enough power to utilize it fully.


 
JSmith you don't need a 72 watts light as it is quite overkill as I have a 27 watt with 60 deg which illuminate 100 ft. ahead and it gives 2160 lumens and this is a gauge of how much light the Led gives in Lumens. I know some people say the manufacturer exaggerates with their Lumen setting but it's still a good rough measurement. At 27 watts I draw 2.25 amps and it is not taxing my stator over its capabilities.
When you say you have a 12 v battery, is it used to start your snowblower or is it as a stand alone like I have? For wiring with a stand alone battery is very simple pos and neg with a fuse and switch. You can ask further if you need help. Good Luck

This is my Led installed where my previous halogen light was


----------



## JSmith856

Ok, so I have some information on the 2014 Ariens #926517 HydroPro 32" 12v/Keystart (not 120vac) with a 420CC BRIGGS PF 2100 Manufacturer's Engine # 25M1370110F1 code.

1. The key will utilize the battery to power up the hand warmers and on board light via the key in the "on" position. When started, the stator will supply 60w of Edison which then gets covered to 5a of Tesla to the battery at 12.7 VDC -/+ to charge it up while the engine is running at 3,720 RIPems. - 

2. The draw on both the hand warmers and the 12v/20w bulb combined is about 4.45a at 13.4v, keeping it under the 5a charging limit. I guess this is why the non hand warmer models have a higher wattage bulb. 

3. The bulb is as expected PGJ13 (ANSI 880) Right Angle Prefocus, T3.25 Bulb with a packard connector 12124817 with terminals 12077411

I have ordered 2 Kawell 18w, 6x3w CREE diodes lights. 

I'll wire it up so that I can continue to utilize the factory "running lights" as well as add another switch to power up the LED's. As much as I'd love to get a brighter more powerful bulb, the thrower just can't sustain it. That is unless I figure out a way to increase the charging output of the alternator/stator....

Any ideas on how to do this?


----------



## Normex

JSmith856 said:


> I have ordered 2 Kawell 18w, 6x3w CREE diodes lights.
> 
> I'll wire it up so that I can continue to utilize the factory "running lights" as well as add another switch to power up the LED's. As much as I'd love to get a brighter more powerful bulb, the thrower just can't sustain it. That is unless I figure out a way to increase the charging output of the alternator/stator....
> 
> Any ideas on how to do this?


You are on the right path and as for increasing your stator output it is doable but much much more trouble than it is worth for this application.
Just my thought as you will see with your present set up it will light up very nicely.


----------



## JSmith856

liftoff1967 said:


> We Have a Successful story.
> 
> Thank you to Superedge 88 and JRHawk9 for all the advise and tips.
> 
> I'm a happy, happy guy. To bad it is nearing the end of the season, but what the hay. I'm ready for next year.
> 
> If anyone is wondering about the mount location of the LED's, I pick this location for a few reasons. I did not want them on the sides of the handlebars being I store this blower in a narrow area and I can see them busting off. I could not get much more vertical than they are due to the direction shoot thinige hitting the light if I went taller.
> 
> Again. THANK YOU!!
> 
> 2014 Ariens Deluxe 30 LED Light upgrade - YouTube


Did you fab the light mounts or purchase them? They're nice I dig the bolt on look vs/ drilling into the console/dash panel (which is 80$ USD bucks + hours if you mess up)


----------



## liftoff1967

JSmith856 said:


> Did you fab the light mounts or purchase them? They're nice I dig the bolt on look vs/ drilling into the console/dash panel (which is 80$ USD bucks + hours if you mess up)


I fabricated them myself (I'm a salesman at a architectural sheet metal shop, even have a customer in Hackensack) They are 1/8" formed aluminum powder coated black for durability. When I got my pattern figured out, I had a couple extra sets fabricated and finished. I have (1) set left for sale if your interested.

PM me to work out the details


----------



## bubbenboy_90

I had an honda Hs 760 and i sold it and this is my new baby. I have mounted 2 10w Led for the sides and a led bar 36w for the front


----------



## Shredsled

Wow, very nice machine!


----------



## Normex

bubbenboy_90 said:


> I had an honda Hs 760 and i sold it and this is my new baby. I have mounted 2 10w Led for the sides and a led bar 36w for the front


 Do you have heated grips as well? Just checking in case you might be overtaxing your stator but Superedge is the expert on this matter.


----------



## bubbenboy_90

Shredsled said:


> Wow, very nice machine!


Thanks


----------



## bubbenboy_90

Normex said:


> Do you have heated grips as well? Just checking in case you might be overtaxing your stator but Superedge is the expert on this matter.


I mount it on the battery with a 2-p on/off/on switch (either 2 10watt on and the 36 watt off, or all of the lamps on, or all the lamps off). I know the generator dont charge total 56 watt so i have to charge the battery sometimes 

And no, no heated grips


----------



## Normex

Then you're a good candidate for a battery maintainer. They come with a wire set up that you install on each battery poles and with the maintainer always plugged, you just plug the maintainer to the wire plug set up and your battery will be always fresh after use with those lights. Good Luck


----------



## Kenny kustom

Use a blue filter for snow


----------



## bubbenboy_90

Normex said:


> Then you're a good candidate for a battery maintainer. They come with a wire set up that you install on each battery poles and with the maintainer always plugged, you just plug the maintainer to the wire plug set up and your battery will be always fresh after use with those lights. Good Luck


I also have that installed on the snowblower. a wery easy solution to charge the battery 
Thanks!


----------



## superedge88

bubbenboy_90 said:


> I mount it on the battery with a 2-p on/off/on switch (either 2 10watt on and the 36 watt off, or all of the lamps on, or all the lamps off). I know the generator dont charge total 56 watt so i have to charge the battery sometimes
> 
> And no, no heated grips


Do you know what your stator is capable of? You may be barely safe, or you may eventually burn up your stator with all the lights on if you have a 3 amp stator. I would be concerned with all lights on, but that's just me.


----------



## bubbenboy_90

Kenny kustom said:


> Use a blue filter for snow


I orderd with the white light (around 5500 kelvin) and that is the closest to the kelvin that the sun produces . Is it better to go with blue?


----------



## bubbenboy_90

superedge88 said:


> Do you know what your stator is capable of? You may be barely safe, or you may eventually burn up your stator with all the lights on if you have a 3 amp stator. I would be concerned with all lights on, but that's just me.


But i mounted the led lights directly on the battery (12,5 AH) i dont use the stator? or am i wrong?
My battery have 12,5 AH and with that I should be able to run just the lights in just over 3 hours without the engine running.


----------



## superedge88

bubbenboy_90 said:


> But if i mount the led lights on the battery (12,5 AH) i dont use the stator? or am i wrong?


If your on board battery is charged off the stator then you are using your stator. If you disconnect type battery from the stator then you can use any wattage lighting.


----------



## Normex

You are right and if you want to know how your battery will hold with a 4.6 amp draw you have with those lights 12.5 / 4.6 = 2.7 hours of use and that's not counting what your stator will charge your battery during that time.


----------



## bubbenboy_90

superedge88 said:


> If your on board battery is charged off the stator then you are using your stator. If you disconnect type battery from the stator then you can use any wattage lighting.


All right. But as I've thought now is that I have fully charged battery. It will take about 3 hours until it is emptied. and then I have not counted on what the stator charging so maybe 4-5 hours driving before my battery is drained. the stator is not affected by the lights until my battery is fully drained. at this point the lights begin to take power from the stator and can be damaged by the lights take too much power. stator charging what it can charge, even if the battery takes more energy than the stator produces. or am I going wrong?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

superedge88 said:


> If your on board battery is charged off the stator then you are using your stator. If you disconnect type battery from the stator then you can use any wattage lighting.


WHAT 

The battery is just storage. In normal operation you should be running off the stator and just have the battery as a backup. For better lighting on a snow blower you'll likely be using all the stator can produce and then some from the battery too so it would need to be put on an external charger when you're done or run for a considerable time with the lights off to recharge itself.

Think of the battery as a big bucket with a small hose (the stator) leading into it. You can put as big a hose out as you want but if the out hose is bigger than the in hose sooner or later the bucket is going to go empty (battery dead).

There would be NO reason to disconnect the stator from the battery as even if it's not charging as much or more then you are using it's contribution will at least make the battery last longer and the lights be a bit brighter as the battery is running down. At least that's how it works in my world 

If you did commercial you could also tap into your trailer wiring to top off the battery as you drive but you would want to put in a limiter as the wiring won't stand to be used as jumper cables. That's the cheap easy way to do it but the better way would be to run a separate heavy positive lead back to where you need it to charge the blowers battery faster off the vehicles system.


----------



## Normex

bubbenboy_90 said:


> the stator is not affected by the lights until my battery is fully drained. at this point the lights begin to take power from the stator and can be damaged by the lights take too much power. stator charging what it can charge, even if the battery takes more energy than the stator produces. or am I going wrong?


 This is my take and Superedge can comment further to keep us in the right lane, first you may want to go by the battery capacity instead of the stator as your battery will take the brunt because it would not be wise to drain it completely as you can damage the battery before you harm the stator.
Do you have to snow blow more than 3 hrs? If so I would put your toggle switch to either your one Led or your two smaller Led. with the two smaller Leds your battery in theory could last more than 7 hours.


----------



## Normex

Kiss4aFrog said:


> WHAT
> There would be NO reason to disconnect the stator from the battery as even if it's not charging as much or more then you are using it's contribution will at least make the battery last longer and the lights be a bit brighter as the battery is running down. At least that's how it works in my world
> QUOTE]
> 
> K4F Superedge only stated the possibilities if one wanted to add more wattage than the stator could supply as it would be safer to lets say add a 100 watt Led to connect directly to the battery than risk damaging the stator if connected.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

My assumption which may be in error is were are talking about a 12-14V DC regulated supply being fed to the battery.

If you wanted to run a 100 watt light system it would make more sense to still have the stator connected to the battery and giving it's 18 to 55 watts to help keep the battery propped up for that much longer.

If you taking about a battery I'm *assuming *the person has or is installing a voltage regulator and that is the stators protection from damage.
If there isn't a regulator I surely wouldn't connect the battery to the stator.


----------



## Coby7

You can't damage the stator by drawing too much current. True that it will be running at maximum current all the time but it can't give anymore than its design and caracteristics.


----------



## Normex

Coby7 said:


> You can't damage the stator by drawing too much current. True that it will be running at maximum current all the time but it can't give anymore than its design and caracteristics.


 I don't know but a stator would be similar in design to a car alternator? 
And if one draws too much the alternator would go bad at least in my experience they would go hot and burn eventually.
It wouldn't make any sense trying to draw more than its quoted amps as the lights would run yellow and any other like an electric motor might get damaged from too low current.
I stand to be corrected.


----------



## Coby7

In the case of your car it would be the regulator that would burn, windings would be intact. Same with small engines the stator will put out it's max and that's it.


----------



## Kenny kustom

Here's a list on filter covers.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> In the case of your car it would be the regulator that would burn, windings would be intact. Same with small engines the stator will put out it's max and that's it.


So what burns up stators then? I was under the impression that it could burn up if you are somehow exceeding the rating. My cousins have burned up stators on their dirt bikes and on their snowmobiles.
If you'll simply have diminished lighting ouput if you exceed the amperage capabilities of the stator then it makes the amperage rating on the stator much less of hard and fast rule for matching the lighting amp draw.


----------



## JSmith856

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, I have an update.
> 
> I just received my -AMP CLAMP- so I decided to do some testing of current draw and voltages of my system with the added (4) LED's. I tested the AC lead coming out of the stator as that's what matters. I didn't do any testing on the DC side of things. I may do that at a later time though.
> 
> Anyway, here is what I found (rpm's at 3,720ish):
> All 4 LED's ON/handwarmers ON: 5.42A @ 12.5V = ~68 watts (too much for my liking)
> 
> So, I went back and wired up a separate switch which will allow me to turn the second set of LED's on/off independently from the first, but the first set has to be switched on if I want the second set turned on. I then went back and did a bunch more measurements. All measurements taken at 3,720ish rpms.
> 
> Stock headlight ON / handwarmers OFF: 1.95A @ 14.8V = ~29W
> Stock headlight OFF / handwarmers ON: 2.81A @ 14.4V = ~40W
> Stock headlight ON / handwarmers ON: 4.45A @ 13.5V = ~60W
> 
> 2 LED's ON / handwarmers OFF: 1.15A @ 15V = ~17W
> 4 LED's ON / handwarmers OFF: 2.53A @14.2V = ~36W
> 2 LED's ON / handwarmers ON: 3.95A @ 13.65V = ~54W
> 4 LED's ON / handwarmers ON: 5.35A @ 12.7V = ~68W
> 
> So, even though I hardly ever use my handwarmers, I will only be using 2 of my LED's when I do use them so I'm not overloading my stator.



I'm still trying to grasp this... 
I have a "regulated output" 12vdc battery on board. (2014 HydroPro 32") keyed 12vdc starting) If I draw too much amperage then the regulated 5a output - what happens? i'm assuming the battery dies quicker and the unit can't recharge it with those devices on... kill the devices and let it run for a bit or hook it up to a battery tender??

So, if I'm drawing 8a with all on, led, halogen (which I'll swap out) warmers what happens? is this bad? Hawk is all 4 and warmers on at 5.35a which is higher then the 60w that's regulated... so what does that actually DO to the system? damage it?


----------



## Normex

I googled what cause alternators to burn and it is simply to have a too high constant demand will make the alternator or stator to overheat and burn.

Here are 2 responses as there are many and one even mentioned in another thread that a dead and or constant low battery can cause the alternator to burn.

"*
**Re: keep burning out alternator** 
* « *Reply #2** on:* 18 January 2013, 04:31:12 pm » 
An alternator is an on demand component. It's only working when it is needed. If the electrical demand is more than the alternator can put out it will never have a "break" and overheat and burn out. They need to have a duty cycle. If your alternator is overworked going to a higher amperage unit will fix your problem. The basic difference in amperage ratings of alternators are the amount of copper windings in the stator.

Another response to burning alternator
Exposure to the rough underhood environment combined with time will find something to corrode and cause a failure eventually, too. A high quality alternator can reduce, but not eliminate, that factor. 

Naturally stressing the alternator with unusually high demand for current causes more electricity to be generated, which heats the components.

When it runs too hot, its pretty much chance which one goes first - the insulation between the wires in the winding, or the rectifier diodes. "

I go by what is said with 30 years mechanics.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

The mistake you are making is the difference between a unit that's capable of putting out 60-90-120 amps and something that on a good day does 5amps for a rider and more likely 3 to less than one for a walk behind. They just don't generate enough power to produce much heat.

A stator doesn't heat up the same way a cars alternator does because it's never driven that hard. 

Their rating is a hard and fast guide because if you exceed it you will not get a bright light. If your system is designed for 25 watt load you'd be better off going with an 18 watt bulb that you can drive 100% at the correct voltage than putting in a 35 or 55 watt bulb and not being able to get close to 12 volts in the system.


----------



## Normex

Ok makes sense but just for talking purposes what if I draw 100watts out of a 3 amp stator would that be taxing it? I guess that is the paradigm that all who come to this thread are facing when drawing 56 watts for their lights and a further 20 for handwarmers, would the light be just dimmer and less heat or damaging the stator long term?


----------



## Normex

I got more info from small engines sites and they all agree if you pull more from your stator than designed it may fry or burn:

*Snowblower Electrical Question*

I don't think it would matter much so far as a regular filament bulb goes as to if you were using AC or DC, so long as it was the same voltage pretty much.

The thing which really matters is how much electricity the bulb uses (watts) and how much "spare" electricity is generated by the unit to power an accessory like a light.

And manufacturers of these things don't tell you this information. They just give you a part number.

If it were mine, I would just try the light and see if it worked or not. If it bogged down the machine so it was not running as it should, I would try a lower wattage bulb (less power required to run it).

And I would be taking a risk that I would burn out the wiring or burn out the alternator on the snow blower, but in my case, I could easily replace those parts as I know how to work on these.

So we don't know what the wattage should be. You would be taking a risk that you might damage the electrical system on the snow blower by not using a factory light.

If you can somehow find out what the wattage is of the factory light, then get the same wattage or lower wattage bulb, then that would solve the problem.

Originally Posted by *aj-allen* 
_If you exceed the out put of any generator system you will eventually fry the generator. 50 watts means 50 watts not 55. How long it would last is any ones guess there may be enough extra but why risk it.

AJ_
Not sure I understand...fry what and how? Magnets spinning by a coil of wire...?

Not sure if this has a separate lighting coil or not, or if it is regulated. My understanding is the gen/alternator, is capable of a certain output regardless the load. This is pre determined by the speed of the engine and the size and wraps of the wire in the coil as well as the magnets.
IIRC Watts = volts x amps
Most systems I have seen are 3-5 amp for small engines. 
I would have guessed that using a 55W light would only limit the light from making its full potential output and not otherwise stress the alternator, and using a lower wattage light may result in burning out lights prematurely...



From a small engine tech at Just Answer:
*Expert: **Chris* replied 2 years ago.

The only other number is XXXXX generic model number 945 SWE
Chris : 
Are you asking the voltage of the lighting circuit or the amount of amps it can handle?
Customer: 
both actually
Chris : 
Ok thats what i figured, the voltage is 12 volts dc. The amperage will be a little tougher to find. Does your blower have heated grips?
Customer: 
yes it does
Chris : 
Ok ill be righ back with you
Chris : 
Sorry for the delay. The system does not have much extra amperage to spare. If you added a 20 watt light bulb you would be pushing it to the limit and risk burning out the stator. A costly repair. 20 watts will not do much for you.


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> I got more info from small engines sites and they all agree if you pull more from your stator than designed it may fry or burn:
> 
> *Snowblower Electrical Question*
> 
> I don't think it would matter much so far as a regular filament bulb goes as to if you were using AC or DC, so long as it was the same voltage pretty much.
> 
> The thing which really matters is how much electricity the bulb uses (watts) and how much "spare" electricity is generated by the unit to power an accessory like a light.
> 
> And manufacturers of these things don't tell you this information. They just give you a part number.
> 
> If it were mine, I would just try the light and see if it worked or not. If it bogged down the machine so it was not running as it should, I would try a lower wattage bulb (less power required to run it).
> 
> And I would be taking a risk that I would burn out the wiring or burn out the alternator on the snow blower, but in my case, I could easily replace those parts as I know how to work on these.
> 
> So we don't know what the wattage should be. You would be taking a risk that you might damage the electrical system on the snow blower by not using a factory light.
> 
> If you can somehow find out what the wattage is of the factory light, then get the same wattage or lower wattage bulb, then that would solve the problem.
> 
> Originally Posted by *aj-allen*
> _If you exceed the out put of any generator system you will eventually fry the generator. 50 watts means 50 watts not 55. How long it would last is any ones guess there may be enough extra but why risk it.
> 
> AJ_
> Not sure I understand...fry what and how? Magnets spinning by a coil of wire...?
> 
> Not sure if this has a separate lighting coil or not, or if it is regulated. My understanding is the gen/alternator, is capable of a certain output regardless the load. This is pre determined by the speed of the engine and the size and wraps of the wire in the coil as well as the magnets.
> IIRC Watts = volts x amps
> Most systems I have seen are 3-5 amp for small engines.
> I would have guessed that using a 55W light would only limit the light from making its full potential output and not otherwise stress the alternator, and using a lower wattage light may result in burning out lights prematurely...
> 
> 
> 
> From a small engine tech at Just Answer:
> *Expert: **Chris* replied 2 years ago.
> 
> The only other number is XXXXX generic model number 945 SWE
> Chris :
> Are you asking the voltage of the lighting circuit or the amount of amps it can handle?
> Customer:
> both actually
> Chris :
> Ok thats what i figured, the voltage is 12 volts dc. The amperage will be a little tougher to find. Does your blower have heated grips?
> Customer:
> yes it does
> Chris :
> Ok ill be righ back with you
> Chris :
> Sorry for the delay. The system does not have much extra amperage to spare. If you added a 20 watt light bulb you would be pushing it to the limit and risk burning out the stator. A costly repair. 20 watts will not do much for you.


I really appreciate your leg work on this, I have been under the impression for a long time that a stator can get burned out. I am open to the possibility that I am wrong, but I do want to understand the ins and outs of this as you are seeking. I am eagerly awaiting more thoughts on this, I will change my thinking in the face of enough evidence. Thank you Normex!!


----------



## bubbenboy_90

Normex said:


> I got more info from small engines sites and they all agree if you pull more from your stator than designed it may fry or burn:
> 
> *Snowblower Electrical Question*
> 
> I don't think it would matter much so far as a regular filament bulb goes as to if you were using AC or DC, so long as it was the same voltage pretty much.
> 
> The thing which really matters is how much electricity the bulb uses (watts) and how much "spare" electricity is generated by the unit to power an accessory like a light.
> 
> And manufacturers of these things don't tell you this information. They just give you a part number.
> 
> If it were mine, I would just try the light and see if it worked or not. If it bogged down the machine so it was not running as it should, I would try a lower wattage bulb (less power required to run it).
> 
> And I would be taking a risk that I would burn out the wiring or burn out the alternator on the snow blower, but in my case, I could easily replace those parts as I know how to work on these.
> 
> So we don't know what the wattage should be. You would be taking a risk that you might damage the electrical system on the snow blower by not using a factory light.
> 
> If you can somehow find out what the wattage is of the factory light, then get the same wattage or lower wattage bulb, then that would solve the problem.
> 
> Originally Posted by *aj-allen*
> _If you exceed the out put of any generator system you will eventually fry the generator. 50 watts means 50 watts not 55. How long it would last is any ones guess there may be enough extra but why risk it.
> 
> AJ_
> Not sure I understand...fry what and how? Magnets spinning by a coil of wire...?
> 
> Not sure if this has a separate lighting coil or not, or if it is regulated. My understanding is the gen/alternator, is capable of a certain output regardless the load. This is pre determined by the speed of the engine and the size and wraps of the wire in the coil as well as the magnets.
> IIRC Watts = volts x amps
> Most systems I have seen are 3-5 amp for small engines.
> I would have guessed that using a 55W light would only limit the light from making its full potential output and not otherwise stress the alternator, and using a lower wattage light may result in burning out lights prematurely...
> 
> 
> 
> From a small engine tech at Just Answer:
> *Expert: **Chris* replied 2 years ago.
> 
> The only other number is XXXXX generic model number 945 SWE
> Chris :
> Are you asking the voltage of the lighting circuit or the amount of amps it can handle?
> Customer:
> both actually
> Chris :
> Ok thats what i figured, the voltage is 12 volts dc. The amperage will be a little tougher to find. Does your blower have heated grips?
> Customer:
> yes it does
> Chris :
> Ok ill be righ back with you
> Chris :
> Sorry for the delay. The system does not have much extra amperage to spare. If you added a 20 watt light bulb you would be pushing it to the limit and risk burning out the stator. A costly repair. 20 watts will not do much for you.


thanks for the Information 
but this is only if you dont have the lamps plugged into the battery and take the dc directly from the engine by a bridgereflectier?

its funny, some people say that the stator dont burn, and some say it is going to burn. Whats the true?


----------



## Coby7

A 36 watt stator can only put out 36 watts by design. If it's a 12 volt system,when it reaches 3 amps (3X12=36)and try to draw more current the voltage will drop. In other words if you try to draw 4 amps the voltage will be 9 volts. (4X9=36)


----------



## Normex

Coby7 said:


> A 36 watt stator can only put out 36 watts by design. If it's a 12 volt system,when it reaches 3 amps (3X12=36)and try to draw more current the voltage will drop. In other words if you try to draw 4 amps the voltage will be 9 volts. (4X9=36)


 
* 
How a Stator can die
* 
As load is applied, the voltage drops. This is important - the more things there are drawing on the available power, the lower the voltage drops. You can see this by putting a voltmeter on a battery, then watching the available volts drop when a heavy load (such as a starter) is applied.

If the battery is severely depleted (i.e. after starting the engine), it can draw tens of amps recharging itself - that's a significant load. If the snow blower engine is idling, the stator won't be producing enough power to make 14 volts DC, as RPM increases, the stator produces more power, voltage rises above 14 (actually 13.8) volts DC, and the battery instead of supplying power, starts taking power and storing it. 

However, consider this: you start blowing snow, with the engine RPM increased, the battery is now charged and isn't drawing much anymore, the only other loads are lights, engine operation and so on. The stator is making more power than the snow blower requires. If left unchecked, the DC voltage would rise to 40 volts or more - and this would blow lights, cook batteries, and more. This is where the regulator steps in.

The regulator recognizes that the voltage is rising higher than it should, which means there is not enough load to keep it in check. So it has a special component (usually a zener diode) that starts conducting at a set voltage, working as a valve, draining some of the power away, which drops the voltage. However, the power can't just "go away" - it has to go somewhere. So the regulator sends (shunts) it to ground, through a resistor. The resistor heats up, transforming the electrical energy into heat energy, which is dissipated into the air and into the blower's frame. This type of regulator is known as a "shunt regulator."

And guess what? That resistor, in dumping energy into heat, presents a load to the stator.

So the stator is under load at all times - even if you disconnected every electrical device, and if the battery was fully charged - the stator is still under load, because the shunt regulator is shunting current to ground through the shunt load (resistor).

In practice, at normal operating RPM, the shunt regulator is shunting current to ground at all times, because the battery is charged and is not requiring any current, and the stator is producing far more power than the snow blower requires in order to operate. If you add more lights, adding to the load of the electrical system, you are in reality taking load OFF of the shunt circuit - the stator is still producing the exact same power, and is under the exact same amount of load.

Is it possible to overload your stator? Certainly - if you put six 55-watt lights on your snow blower, you will not only drain down your battery, but you'll present a very low impedance circuit to the stator and rectifier, which causes the current to rise and causing heat - and as mentioned previously, heat is the #1 killer of stators. However, you will know you're doing this because your battery will be draining.

If you have a battery with a bad cell (or that is sulfated or otherwise bad) that is constantly drawing a large amount of current, this will present a constant large load to your stator, causing it to overheat and shortening its life.


----------



## Coby7

Might have been true 20-25 years ago, but shunt regulators are not used anymore. Solidstate regulators are now the norm. If there is no load there is no current draw.


----------



## Normex

Coby7 said:


> Might have been true 20-25 years ago, but shunt regulators are not used anymore. Solidstate regulators are now the norm. If there is no load there is no current draw.


 From what I read the stator produce current at all times based on rpm so the current has to go somewhere whether via a shunt regulator or solid state regulator, when you put your digital volt meter you see the voltage dependant on rpm hence the stator is producing some current at all times when engine is running.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Coby7 said:


> Might have been true 20-25 years ago, but shunt regulators are not used anymore. Solidstate regulators are now the norm. If there is no load there is no current draw.


Yup, +1 That's true unless you have a battery. The battery will always be a "load" but if charged a very, very, very small one.

I think the big problem we might be having in trying to agree is we are talking about too many variables. Cars, riding mowers, snow blowers with 12V regulated DC systems and a battery for starting, snow blowers that came with LEDs and have unregulated DC and snow blowers that have unregulated AC output.
Might be easier to just nail down what the guy wants to do and what system the machine he wants to do it to has and just stick to that and we could all be happy


----------



## Coby7

The stator can produce voltage without producing current. Basic ohms law. E=IR. If you have no load you have no current.


----------



## Normex

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Yup, +1 That's true unless you have a battery. The battery will always be a "load" but if charged a very, very, very small one.


Very true I guess the discrepancy started when we were told a stator cannot be over loaded but in fact if a battery has a bad cell it will make the stator work overtime until its demise after all stators do burn once in a while and they do when tasked too heavily.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Normex said:


> From what I read the stator produce current at all times based on rpm so the current has to go somewhere whether via a shunt regulator or solid state regulator, when you put your digital volt meter you see the voltage dependant on rpm hence the stator is producing some current at all times when engine is running.


There is a potential (voltage) that is produced all the time when running but if there is no load (I'm taking that as the switch is off) there is no current flowing, you have infinite resistance. In other words an open. So E = I X R or zero voltage, because there is zero current times zero resistance. You are only able to measure a voltage because the meter itself supplies a circuit for the current to flow with the resistance of the meters circuit testing voltage. 

But other than just making this really hard to follow for the average guy how does this apply to the guy wanting to put a big light and battery on his blower


----------



## Coby7

If the power of the light exceed the power of the stator he will be dependant on the battery for the difference and will need to recharge his battery after he's done.


----------



## Normex

Kiss4aFrog said:


> But other than just making this really hard to follow for the average guy how does this apply to the guy wanting to put a big light and battery on his blower


 Exactly and what if one put a 200 watt load via lights or butt warmers.

In my case I have a 12v 18 AH separate as an entity to run my lights and it goes very well with a battery maintainer.


----------



## bubbenboy_90

And in my case, I have a total of 56 watts when all the lights are turned on. I can switch between a total of 20 watts and a total of 56 watt. I have linked them trough the battery. I was told that even though I have these connected in the battery (which I have) then the stator will be burned up .

Will my stator be burned ? Obviously if my battery is empty and I do not charge it, Because then it will only operate through the stator which it will not have the power to


My snowblower is a 2014 Honda Hs 970EWS . I'M From Sweden, so sorry for bad english


----------



## Coby7

I don't believe it will burn but you will be working it ti it's limit all the time. If you can turn off some lights if you don't need them it will help otherwise you will probably need to recharge your batterry after you're done.


----------



## Normex

Coby7 said:


> "I don't believe it will burn" but you will be working it ti it's limit all the time. If you can turn off some lights if you don't need them it will help otherwise you will probably need to recharge your batterry after you're done.





Coby7 said:


> You can't damage the stator by drawing too much current. True that it will be running at maximum current all the time but it can't give anymore than its design and caracteristics.


 Ok let's not skip over the surface on this, it is either it will burn the stator or not, " I don't believe" is vague now but you should ask any people that had a bad battery or a sulfated one and their stator gave up trying too hard all the time. This is only for a sulfated battery and not counting accessories
the operator may have. There are parts store selling stators everyday not just to add but to replace a burned one. There I said my piece.


----------



## Coby7

Depends on the stator and the quality of manufacturing. The sweden guy has a Hs970EWS, Honda is well known for their quality worksmanship. It's not an MTD.


----------



## Normex

Coby7 said:


> Depends on the stator and the quality of manufacturing. The sweden guy has a Hs970EWS, Honda is well known for their quality worksmanship. It's not an MTD.


 Coby you are skating all over with this stator deal, at first you said one cannot overtax a stator then I don't believe and now it depends.
This is what needs to be said; All snow blower Brands from top to low ends don't accessorize their units beyond the output capacity of their stators. Even if Honda has good quality stators they still build them with output room to spare because heat is the enemy of stators and its copper windings same for gen sets and so on.
We should strive in helping the people on this thread to have the best they can have within reason or expectation of the components at stake.
Good Evening


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Coby you are skating all over with this stator deal, at first you said one cannot overtax a stator then I don't believe and now it depends.
> This is what needs to be said; All snow blower Brands from top to low ends don't accessorize their units beyond the output capacity of their stators. Even if Honda has good quality stators they still build them with output room to spare because heat is the enemy of stators and its copper windings same for gen sets and so on.
> We should strive in helping the people on this thread to have the best they can have within reason or expectation of the components at stake.
> Good Evening


Between you and Kiss4afrog I think that there is sufficient evidence to say at the very least that we shouldn't treat the stator as if it is bullet proof.
I would like to float the following out there as well, since bubbenboy is using a unit that has an on board battery.
If you have lighting that is within the output of the stator you have no problem. If you have lighting that is beyond the output of the stator an intersting thing takes place. The battery then has to jump in to the equation by releasing stored power. The problem with this scenario is that while before you exceeded the stator ouput the battery basically showed as no load to the stator, but then when you exceed the stator output suddenly the battery becomes another load on the stator.
So in the case of an onboard battery snowblower, if you exceed the stator output you are suddenly asking the stator to not only try (and fail) to satisfy the lighting power demands, but you are also asking the stator to now charge the battery with extra amperage that it doesn't have. So in short, on paper, things can go to **** in a handbasket REALLY quickly once stator output is exceeded, ESPECIALLY in the case of a snowblower with an onboard battery.
I am sure that there is an allowable amount beyond the "rated" output of the stator that you can pull, but that would be specific to the exact stator, but I will not play fast and loose with someone's snowblower electrical circuits and make recommendations without knowing POSITIVELY what will happen. I will always err on the side of caution.


----------



## JSmith856

Am I under the wrong assumption that on a blower with a 12v battery, that the 5a stator is just used to change the battery at 5a, the stator is an AC generator that then needs to output the voltage to DC. to charge up the battery.

Aren't all the accessories powered off of the battery? I mean the ignition will just allow current to pass to the starter which then can draw a lot of amperage to start the unit. So, that's not taxing the stator is it? isn't the starter taxing the battery (the storage device of power) When I turn on my ignition on the blower, it powers up the halogen lights (factory way) I don't have to have the thrower started to use the lights because the power source is not the stator, but the battery.

Any accessory that is turned on, via that machine will come off the battery to utilize the 12vdc. So if you are pulling more then the 5a, the battery will be the "holder of power" and release it to whichever device needs it more.. If the battery is releasing more amperage then it's being fed = dead battery.. I don't believe that if you put a load over the stator output will burn up the stator, but just deplete the battery sooner because the stator can't output enough to the "power container" in order for the power container to supply the demand from the lights..

It's basically a car system Automotive Charging Systems -  A Short Course on How They Work | CarParts.com


----------



## superedge88

JSmith856 said:


> Any accessory that is turned on, via that machine will come off the battery to utilize the 12vdc. So if you are pulling more then the 5a, the battery will be the "holder of power" and release it to whichever device needs it more.. If the battery is releasing more amperage then it's being fed = dead battery.. I don't believe that if you put a load over the stator output will burn up the stator, but just deplete the battery sooner because the stator can't output enough to the "power container" in order for the power container to supply the demand from the lights.


The battery is mainly there to accomodate electrical when the engine is either at low idle or off. Once the engine is at high RPM the battery should not be needed (in a car or snowblower) and simply be getting topped off by the stator output. If you go above and beyond what the stator can deliver then you are dipping in to the battery. We aren't talking about momentary low RPM moments ( like there would be plenty of in a car) we are talking about in some cases hours of snowblowing with the stator being constantly incapable of keeping the battery charged. A charging stator is not meant to revive a battery out of a deep discharge state, so if you are constantly drawing more power than the stator can deliver then you are taxing the stator beyond what it was meant to and also possibly killing your battery. The battery can be maintained correctly and hopefully saved with a battery trickle charger, the stator is the unknown that may or may not survive.


----------



## JSmith856

Thanks guys, I appreciate the very thoughtful information.
Here is an excellent resource.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/~/...gsAndStratton/PDFs/alternator_replacement.pdf


----------



## JnC

Quick question about wiring the capacitors, shown here is how I intend on wiring them, any issues with this set up?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

That looks really clean. Nice job.


----------



## JnC

^^ Thanks, here is the completed box looks like, the fuse and on/off switch would be on the outside of the box. I went back and changed things up a bit on the capacitors as I didnt like the idea of having a naked connection. 

DO the connections look ok? Hate to have this thing blow up on me,


----------



## Coby7

Nice clean job.


----------



## CO Snow

The only thing I do would be to put a dab of silicone caulk at the base of each wire where it exits the box for a little more water resistance.


----------



## JnC

CO Snow said:


> The only thing I do would be to put a dab of silicone caulk at the base of each wire where it exits the box for a little more water resistance.



Great minds think alike , ends were zip tied on the inside and also silicone was applied, here are some pictures of the box as well, just in case if anyone else is interested. It was $8 shipped through ebay, link is below, has nice tapped fittings inside the box to mount hardware, I was able to use couple of them to mount the rectifier. Also, comes with a nice foam gasket that seals the box real good against the elements. 

Bopla 02 081606 0 P316 Enclosure Indoor Outdoor Project Box Bopla 160x75x57 Mm | eBay















































By the way, credit to AKview for the idea.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I think that is about as professional and bullet proof as it's going to get 

The only small correction I'd make would be to use a knot in the wires to keep them from being pulled out instead of the tie wraps. But that fab jobs with the shrink tube is top notch.


----------



## JnC

Thanks, bud. I thought about putting a knot on each wire but decided against it as the plastic coating on the wires becomes brittle over time and it may crack at the knots. That's why I used small zip ties just to make sure if there was ever a tug on the wire it won't pull it out all the way.


----------



## JnC

So I installed a switch that lights up when the lights are on, three prongs on the back and here is what is suggested for wiring












12V DC power source.
Middle terminal – to accessory/apparatus.
Outer terminal – to ground.
here is the schematic that I drew up.












By the way I am using two 20 watt CREE LED lights, hence the 6~7 AMP fuse.

My question is, would the AC current blow the tiny bulb in the switch? as the manufacturer recommends/suggests using DC power to light up the bulb within the switch, any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Coby7

Depends what the peak voltage is. Why not switch the DC instead?


----------



## JnC

Coby7 said:


> Depends what the peak voltage is. Why not switch the DC instead?



Thanks for the input, went back and did just that to avoid any issues with the switch down the road. Basically the switch will get constant +VE direct from the rectifier's DC +ve out. The +ve out from switch will go to the capacitors/lights. The ground is tapped into the DC -ve from the rectifier/capacitor/lights.


----------



## Coby7

You could have just sent the black and red wires just to the switch then from there to the light.


----------



## Akview

Looks Great JnC!


----------



## Toolman_Johnny

*Thanks*

My first post here, and just wanted to say thanks to all. I installed a pair of 10W Cree flood lights on my John Deere 1032. I used a small project box from Radio Shack to house my capacitors, rectifier, as well as serve as a spot to mount my push button on/off switch. I mounted the box directly under my ignition key. The lights work great, wow are they bright. As a side note, my Tecumseh 10hp Snowking (HMSK100) puts out 21.5 VAC at full throttle, and as such, I thought I would need a voltage regulator. But it turns out that these CREE lights can handle 24 volts, so I should be fine without a regulator. Anyway, thanks again. Couple of pics attached. 

Regards, TJ


----------



## liftoff1967

Welcome aboard Johnny. Don't be a stranger now that you have that little task completed.

You will really enjoy this modification (at least I do). So simple, yet so effective. 

Congrats on a job well done!


----------



## MnJim

Toolman_Johnny said:


> My first post here, and just wanted to say thanks to all. I installed a pair of 10W Cree flood lights on my John Deere 1032. I used a small project box from Radio Shack to house my capacitors, rectifier, as well as serve as a spot to mount my push button on/off switch. I mounted the box directly under my ignition key. The lights work great, wow are they bright. As a side note, my Tecumseh 10hp Snowking (HMSK100) puts out 21.5 VAC at full throttle, and as such, I thought I would need a voltage regulator. But it turns out that these CREE lights can handle 24 volts, so I should be fine without a regulator. Anyway, thanks again. Couple of pics attached.
> 
> Regards, TJ


 Install looks nice, The lights themselves look rather dim almost like there not even on


----------



## superedge88

Toolman_Johnny said:


> My first post here, and just wanted to say thanks to all. I installed a pair of 10W Cree flood lights on my John Deere 1032. I used a small project box from Radio Shack to house my capacitors, rectifier, as well as serve as a spot to mount my push button on/off switch. I mounted the box directly under my ignition key. The lights work great, wow are they bright. As a side note, my Tecumseh 10hp Snowking (HMSK100) puts out 21.5 VAC at full throttle, and as such, I thought I would need a voltage regulator. But it turns out that these CREE lights can handle 24 volts, so I should be fine without a regulator. Anyway, thanks again. Couple of pics attached.
> 
> Regards, TJ


Hey now, it's not official until you get us a picture of the lights working at night!! I'm glad you found this thread helpful! Enjoy!


----------



## Holeshot weapon

I had my eye on these... 2pcs 18W Cree LED Work Light Offroad Flood Beam LED Light BAR | eBay

I just re-engined my old 70's Ariens 10/32" with this: 15 HP 420cc OHV Winter Gas Engine | Princess Auto

The label on the lighting wire coming off the engine says DC: 36W/12V. If I added these two 18W LED's that would put me right at 36W.

What do you think, can my snowblower engine handle these?


----------



## superedge88

Holeshot weapon said:


> I had my eye on these... 2pcs 18W Cree LED Work Light Offroad Flood Beam LED Light BAR | eBay
> 
> I just re-engined my old 70's Ariens 10/32" with this: 15 HP 420cc OHV Winter Gas Engine | Princess Auto
> 
> The label on the lighting wire coming off the engine says DC: 36W/12V. If I added these two 18W LED's that would put me right at 36W.
> 
> What do you think, can my snowblower engine handle these?


Should work great! You may still want to put a capacitor in line so that you get some clean DC, evidentally some led lights are sensitive to dirty DC.


----------



## JnC

Ok, so here is the situation with my set up. Installed everything yesterday and all went well, I am loving the output along with the fact that how cleanly everything got tucked under the control cover. 

As my earlier posts suggest, I have installed a illuminated switch between the rectifier and the capacitors to be able to turn the lights on and off. Rather than being a two plug switch where all its doing is breaking/connecting the circuit this switch is a three plug switch i.e two plugs for the positive In and out and one for the ground. 

The situation that I am having is that the switch lights up when the lights are turned on, when I turn them off it stays lit for 5 seconds or so and gradually goes off, this from the juice in the caps as the switch bleeds them out. I can solve this issue by installing a diode between the switch and the caps but my question is wouldnt it be better to have the switch actually bleed the caps?

Adding a diode would make sure that the light in the switch turns off the second I turn off the LEDs but at the same time it would leave the caps juiced. Where as leaving the circuit as it is would mean that the system gets bled of any current left in the caps but might affect the longevity of the led light illuminating the switch. 

Thoughts?


----------



## Coby7

If you can live with the fact that it takes 5 seconds for the switch LED to dim out I would leave it like that. This can also be a meter of how good your capacitor is. Later on in 10 years if the LED turns "OFF" in 1 second you'll know it's time to replace the capacitor. This will in no way reduce the life of the switch LED.


----------



## JnC

Coby7 said:


> If you can live with the fact that it takes 5 seconds for the switch LED to dim out I would leave it like that. This can also be a meter of how good your capacitor is. Later on in 10 years if the LED turns "OFF" in 1 second you'll know it's time to replace the capacitor. This will in no way reduce the life of the switch LED.



Thank you, yet again; just the assurance I needed, I'll post some pictures soon of the finished project.


----------



## badger08

Everyone, want to jump into the pool of adding lights to the snowblower. I just got done reading the entire 50 pages of this thread, and in my head it all makes sense. Doesn't mean I won't have questions later though, and after Toolman_Johnny doing the LED light mod to his 1032 JD I'd like to add them to a 826 JD. 

My initial question is - I don't have the factory optioned light so can't test to see how much it's drawing to decide on LED's, but thinking I'd be fine with 2 9w or 10watt lights. But my question is will the 826 work to power them? As looking on Jdparts.com the factory option of a light adds an alternator. But searching Jdparts I do see they show a Stator on the 826, but typical JD, something they are really good at parts descriptions, sometimes not and of course they don't state the amps of the stator. So I would almost guess a 3 amp on a 8 HP Tecumseh? If yes, I will start ordering and sourcing parts. If not well then I guess that's that!

I will attach two pictures showing the wiring.


----------



## superedge88

Test the wire and make sure it puts out ac at about 12v-20v. I would just assume that you have a 1 amp stator unless you can find documentation that says otherwise.


----------



## mfrs2000

My toro 1028 LXE came equipped with a 18W bulb. I am assuming that the stator is 1amp and that I should not try to run 2 10W lights. Should I stick with 1 18W light? As for inline fuses 1 amp or 2 amp?


----------



## badger08

superedge88 said:


> Test the wire and make sure it puts out ac at about 12v-20v. I would just assume that you have a 1 amp stator unless you can find documentation that says otherwise.


I will test it out  and report back!


----------



## superedge88

mfrs2000 said:


> My toro 1028 LXE came equipped with a 18W bulb. I am assuming that the stator is 1amp and that I should not try to run 2 10W lights. Should I stick with 1 18W light? As for inline fuses 1 amp or 2 amp?


I would assume that two 10 watt lights should still be within safe range. 2 amp fuse should work great.


----------



## mfrs2000

I just tested the voltage, 15.1 Vac @ 3325 rpms (full throttle). and 7.6 Vac @ 1975rpms(idle). I am good to order 2 10 W lights?


----------



## superedge88

mfrs2000 said:


> I just test the voltage, 15.1 A @ 3425 rpms. and 7.6 A @ 1975. I am good to order 2 10 W lights?


Do you mean watts?


----------



## Normex

mfrs2000 said:


> I just test the voltage, 15.1 A @ 3425 rpms. and 7.6 A @ 1975. I am good to order 2 10 W lights?


 The voltage is normally measured at full throttle for the stator's output, so you can ignore the idle output measurement.
The tricky part is to know your stator's amperage output but we know your 18 watt lamp draws 1.5 amps so it should be safe to assume your stator's output to be 3 amps which leaves you with plenty room for your 2 10 watts. Superedge should chime in to hopefully confirm this.


----------



## mfrs2000

Sorry, volts...

From researching part #'S I would say that I have a 1 Amp 18 W output.

Below is a quote from another site. 


I've got a 24" Yard Machines snow blower (31AS6LCE700) with what I believe to be the largest engine (at least that I've ever seen) on a blower that width. It's a Tecumseh 10.0 HP that is 358cc (LH358SA-159517Z). The engine is an older style "flat head" which is no longer made by the now defunct Tecumseh. The engine is great, but it lacks an alternator to run a light for the snow blower. So I've researched various other MTD model snow blowers as well as similar LH358SA aka HMSK80 engines. There are several alternators to choose from:
-1 Amp (18 Watt), P/N 611111, Readily available and probably most common. It has only two coils and takes up 120 degees if the flywheel (a third of the pie!)
-3 Amp (~36 Watt @12V), P/N 611095 or P/N 611113 or P/N 611116
-3 Amp D.C., 5 Amp A.C. ( ), P/N 611104. This is for a system that uses an A.C. light, but has a battery that needs to be charged.
-7 Amp (~84 Watt @ 12V), P/N 611097 or P/N 611290



However, you need more than just an alternator to make power. The flywheel must be replaced with a flywheel which has magnets on inside ring. Flywheels:
-Flywheel matched to 1 Amp, P/N 611093?
-Flywheel matched to 3Amp, P/N 611083, or P/N611093
-Flywheel matched to 3Amp D.C./5Amp A.C., P/N 611309.
-Flywheel matched to 7Amp, P/N 611094 (5 magnets)


----------



## Normex

Normally the simple formula for determining amperes is watts divided by voltage, so I would double check his parts determination. You could always remove your flywheel and see how many copper coils you have and if more than three it would be a good sign or contact Toro with your model and serial#. If there is another way I would be most interested. 
As Superedge suggested it most likely can handle your 20 watts draw as the stator would not have been built for the exact wattage draw but slightly bigger and 2 watts is next to nothing. JMO.


----------



## superedge88

mfrs2000, I am still leaning towards 1 amp, since it seems very uncommon for snowblowers to have a light factory installed that doesn't take full advantage of the stator that runs the lighting circuit. You'll get a ton of light with two 10 watt cree led floodlights. I tend to recommend the cool white vs the warm white because the cool white seems brighter in most direct comparisons. The lighting on my personal blower is more of my ego on display than actual light output that is needed.


----------



## Toolman_Johnny

MnJim said:


> Install looks nice, The lights themselves look rather dim almost like there not even on


You're right, they look dim in my photo because they're not on. I didn't get a picture of them on. Figured there were so many other pics with the lights on, that we didn't need another. I can assure you, they work great. Will snap a pic if/when we ever get any snow here.


----------



## Toolman_Johnny

badger08 said:


> My initial question is - I don't have the factory optioned light so can't test to see how much it's drawing to decide on LED's, but thinking I'd be fine with 2 9w or 10watt lights. But my question is will the 826 work to power them? As looking on Jdparts.com the factory option of a light adds an alternator. But searching Jdparts I do see they show a Stator on the 826, but typical JD, something they are really good at parts descriptions, sometimes not and of course they don't state the amps of the stator. So I would almost guess a 3 amp on a 8 HP Tecumseh? If yes, I will start ordering and sourcing parts. If not well then I guess that's that!
> I will attach two pictures showing the wiring.


Sorry to be the bearer of bad news here, but I don't believe your engine has a stator. I know that the stock engine that came on my JD 1032 did NOT have a stator. When my orig motor blew (connecting rod broke and punched through the side of my block), the replacement engine that I installed (a Tecumseh 10hp Snowking, model HMSK100) did have a stator, which is what allowed me to add the lights.


----------



## badger08

Toolman_Johnny said:


> Sorry to be the bearer of bad news here, but I don't believe your engine has a stator. I know that the stock engine that came on my JD 1032 did NOT have a stator. When my orig motor blew (connecting rod broke and punched through the side of my block), the replacement engine that I installed (a Tecumseh 10hp Snowking, model HMSK100) did have a stator, which is what allowed me to add the lights.


Toolman_Johnny - thanks for the reply back - you've had me curious! I did some work to the blower tonight so next project was testing wiring. That's what had me thinking it wasn't possible as the JD light kit shows it adding an alternator, but then seen your lights and thought maybe there was a chance. What year is yours? Mine is an 1983 with a HMSK80 motor.


----------



## BCCJWC

Hi, I haven't really said hello on the forum yet so I'll start there. I joined up recently when I came across this site while researching my first snowblower purchase. Would like to say thanks to all the great people that contribute to this forum and make it such a great place with lots of info. Thanks!

I ended up with a new 2014 Ariens 24" Platinum SHO, I've got about 5hrs on it so far and it's been great. However most of the time I use it is in the dark and I like everything to be well lit so I was all over this thread when I seen it, read it all the way through a couple times. I wouldn't have thought that the stator output is AC and wouldn't have known how to convert it to DC so this thread has been very useful. 

I wanted to still have a functioning factory light just because I weird like that but didn't have the juice to run two 10w LED's, the handwarmers and the stock light so I decided I wanted a 3 position switch with a off position(no lights at all), one way for the factory light and one way for the aftermarket LEDs.

My solution was a DPDT switch, I ran the two factory AC wires into the switch on separate poles and when the switch is in the down position the AC is directed to the factory light and when the switch is in the up position the AC is directed to the bridge rectifier, then a fuse and onto two 2200uf 50V capacitors and then onto the lights. Middle position on the switch is off. 

I tried to make the switch look as factory as I could, used a washer and stuff so it matched the hand warmer switch.


Some pics of under the panel



Wanted to put the fuse where it was easy to access.


And the lights



Operators view (no more blinding upward light)


And the whole machine



And they even work! (the light is much more white than it looks in the pic)


Again thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread with info so I could learn how to upgrade from the factory light. And before someone asks no I didn't spend $200 on a set of Rigid Industries LED's they were given to me and I didn't have anywhere else to use them so figured why not.


----------



## MnJim

JayCarver

That looks like a nice clean install.


----------



## BCCJWC

Thanks, that's what I was going for. 



MnJim said:


> JayCarver
> 
> That looks like a nice clean install.


----------



## superedge88

Jay Carver-Very nice install! I'm glad that you are enjoying that awesome illumination!


----------



## Grunt

Hello and welcome to the forum Jay. Your installation looks like it came from the factory, very nice professional looking add on.


----------



## ClaudeK

Mr Fixit said:


> I had suggested a 100 Mfd Filter capacitor at 50 Volt.
> You boys are now playing with a capacitor 220 times more powerful. Before you play with that. Put it in a vise. I suggest you charge it up with a battery charger then put a screw driver across it. That will demonstrate the "Can't hurt anything, or anyone" error here. That is nearing what they call a taser when it discharges suddenly like in your hand. That size capacitor is expensive and 200 times overkill. Also a 9 volt battery can put your heart into failure in some extreme cases my training said.
> I'm legally forced to say something on safety issues.


Truth to that. Capacitors can keep the charge for a long period of time. 
As far as my knowledge you can avoid this by installing a bleeder resistor which will drain the stored charge from Capacitor when AC input is switched off.
What kind (value) of resistor? I don't know somebody would have to chime in.


----------



## superedge88

ClaudeK said:


> Truth to that. Capacitors can keep the charge for a long period of time.
> As far as my knowledge you can avoid this by installing a bleeder resistor which will drain the stored charge from Capacitor when AC input is switched off.
> What kind (value) of resistor? I don't know somebody would have to chime in.


This is only true if you turn the circuit off. If you simply just wire the lighting up to be always on (when motor is running) then the capacitor will drain once the engine is off.
I installed 1 and 2 Farad capacitors in my 12 volt install days, never ran into any issues.


----------



## ClaudeK

Ah,ok then. 
I checked the parts for hs1332tas as far as the bulb size and it says 12v/15watt only. Dunno how far I can go with LED output.
I'm still trying to justify going with LED swap with direct hook up (rectifier and capacitor) vs portable option run on rechargeable batteries. like one of those miner headlights or bicycle lights.
New 2000 Lumen CREE XM L T6 LED Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Bike Light Head Lamp | eBay
5000 Lumens 2X CREE XM L U2 LED Cycling Bike Bicycle Light Headlamp Headlight | eBay
HL7 - LED Headlamps
HL8 - LED Headlamps


----------



## superedge88

ClaudeK said:


> Ah,ok then.
> I checked the parts for hs1332tas as far as the bulb size and it says 12v/15watt only. Dunno how far I can go with LED output.
> I'm still trying to justify going with LED swap with direct hook up (rectifier and capacitor) vs portable option run on rechargeable batteries. like one of those miner headlights or bicycle lights.
> New 2000 Lumen CREE XM L T6 LED Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Bike Light Head Lamp | eBay
> 5000 Lumens 2X CREE XM L U2 LED Cycling Bike Bicycle Light Headlamp Headlight | eBay
> HL7 - LED Headlamps
> HL8 - LED Headlamps


That doesn't sound right at all, my HS928 took a 50 or 55 watt bulb (can't remember which off hand)


----------



## superedge88

superedge88 said:


> That doesn't sound right at all, my HS928 took a 50 or 55 watt bulb (can't remember which off hand)


Well I stand corrected, for some reason the HS1332 is the ONLY honda snowblower that comes with a 15w bulb!
So in your case I would go with something like this LED floodlight. It will be quite the upgrade from what you have.


----------



## ClaudeK

Agree, the bulb wattage on 1332 is way to small. So any LED equivalent to 15W will make a difference as far as lumen output. I like the idea of two smaller lights at the bars compare to one due to shadow from the chute. 
Looks like I will have to experiment a bit with location and then decide which way to go.
Btw, just checked ignition coils in different Honda models. To my surprise 724TA has different coil # then 928 but both 12/50 . 1132 and 1332 are identical as far as coil # and spec 12/15 which is 1/3 of smaller models


----------



## superedge88

ClaudeK said:


> Agree, the bulb wattage on 1332 is way to small. So any LED equivalent to 15W will make a difference as far as lumen output. I like the idea of two smaller lights at the bars compare to one due to shadow from the chute.
> Looks like I will have to experiment a bit with location and then decide which way to go.
> Btw, just checked ignition coils in different Honda models. To my surprise 724TA has different coil # then 928 but both 12/50 . 1132 and 1332 are identical as far as coil # and spec 12/15 which is 1/3 of smaller models


You may then want to look at something like this
Pair CREE 3inch 8W LED Flood Work Lamp Offroad 4WD Truck Tail DRL Lights 12 24V | eBay
You should be fine at 16 watts instead of 15, one watt shouldn't make any difference. Let us know what you decide on for lighting.


----------



## Toolman_Johnny

Had my first chance early this morning (in total darkness) to use my blower with the new lights. All I gotta say is wow. Fantastic. The two 10W CREE flood lights light up my whole driveway. Really glad I did it. I finally got a chance to take a couple of pictures of the lights while on.


----------



## Toolman_Johnny

badger08 said:


> Toolman_Johnny - What year is yours? Mine is an 1983 with a HMSK80 motor.


Mine's was purchased new (by my grandfather) back in 1980. I installed the replacement engine (an HMSK100) in 2008. When I bought that replacement engine, I had no idea it came with a stator/alternator, but boy am I glad it did.


----------



## Toolman_Johnny

JayCarver said:


> I tried to make the switch look as factory as I could, used a washer and stuff so it matched the hand warmer switch.
> 
> Again thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread with info so I could learn how to upgrade from the factory light. And before someone asks no I didn't spend $200 on a set of Rigid Industries LED's they were given to me and I didn't have anywhere else to use them so figured why not.


Wow, super clean install JayCarver. Well done. Those lights you were gifted look fantastic. I like your cabinets too. Where did you get them?


----------



## ontariosnow

Well i followed the guide, only used 1 capacitor with the bridge rectifier. Was super easy. The cree led's arrived from china tonight and on they went right away . wirings been done for 2 weeks waiting for lights haha. They look wicked ! Thanks again from everyones questions and answers on this forum!


----------



## superedge88

ontariosnow said:


> Well i followed the guide, only used 1 capacitor with the bridge rectifier. Was super easy. The cree led's arrived from china tonight and on they went right away . wirings been done for 2 weeks waiting for lights haha. They look wicked ! Thanks again from everyones questions and answers on this forum!


That looks AWESOME! That is one huge blower! I am so glad that you are pleased with the result.


----------



## ronyschak

*Aliens 921018*

I am asking anybody here if the own an ariens 921018 if they know what the stator output is?
I want to run 2 sets of lights 10 watt Cree LEDs 
Thanks


----------



## Toolman_Johnny

ronyschak said:


> I am asking anybody here if the own an ariens 921018 if they know what the stator output is?


Pretty sure those B&S engines came with 3amp, 5amp and 9amp alternators, so would need exact engine model number to be sure.


----------



## ronyschak

Ariens chat supports says the output of 60 watts AC
60 x 12 = 5 amps


----------



## superedge88

ronyschak said:


> Ariens chat supports says the output of 60 watts AC
> 60 x 12 = 5 amps


That is awesome! You can do a lot with 5 amps!


----------



## ronyschak

*My 4 light install*

2 sets of 2" 10watt www.tuffledlights.com on my 30" ariens platinum deluxe. 2 lights are spot and 2 lights are flood
2 separate switches


----------



## superedge88

ronyschak said:


> 2 sets of 2" 10watt www.tuffledlights.com on my 30" ariens platinum deluxe. 2 lights are spot and 2 lights are flood
> 2 separate switches


Very nice. I bet that the light spread you're getting is perfect. Tell us what you think.


----------



## liftoff1967

I really gotta do a big *SHOUT OUT* to Supperedge88 for helping *ALL* of us thru this. It's gotta be pretty wild for you to think to yourself, "all cause of me". This is truly "your baby"!!

All ya all have to agree with me on this, right?

Next time I'm in Stillwater (this summer on my bike) I gotta buy you a beverage at PD Pappy's. PM me a number I can call ya at.


----------



## ronyschak

Super edge is the demon in all of our heads!
I personally want to thank Superedge and Jhawk for all of the help I was given to complete this project
And the light spread is beautiful ..... Almost no shadow from the chute and its is BRITE


----------



## superedge88

Thanks liftoff and Rony. It's nice to know that contributions are appreciated.


----------



## Ladderco6

I just bought a new HS 928 with wheels and electric start a few months ago and decided to add LED's. However, upon further research using the serial number it says my blower shipped with only 12 volt 15 watt system for the headlight. What this limit me to in LED wattage I can safely power?
Thanks in advance for the help! This forum and its members is awesome!


----------



## Coby7

If you have no lights at all yet, you can safely install two 8 watters or one 15 Watt. If you already have a halogen light you can't add anymore.


----------



## Ladderco6

Thanks Coby. As of now I just have the halogen that came with it. So you you I'd be better off with one spotlight or would two 10 watt Led on the side work? Or even be better off the the center one!


----------



## Normex

Ladderco6 said:


> Thanks Coby. As of now I just have the halogen that came with it. So you you I'd be better off with one spotlight or would two 10 watt Led on the side work? Or even be better off the the center one!


 2 X 10 watts might be too much for your stator but if you want LED you could leave your halogen there and add one 8 watts Led on each side and wire it according to this good thread. Good Luck


----------



## Ladderco6

So if I leave the halogen on it I should be able to run 2-8 watt lights on the sides. If I remove the halogen could I run 2-10 watt LEDs on the sides?

Thanks agin for everyone's assistance! I just want to make sure that I do my best not to harm my stator if possible....


----------



## Coby7

Not both, your present halogen is probably sucking all the juice from that stator as it is. You could change the halogen bulb for and LED of same power, this would give a lot more light but still might have shadows, this is why I suggested Two 8 Watts on either side but you'd have to kill your present halogen.


----------



## Normex

Ladderco6 said:


> So if I leave the halogen on it I should be able to run 2-8 watt lights on the sides. If I remove the halogen could I run 2-10 watt LEDs on the sides?
> 
> Thanks agin for everyone's assistance! I just want to make sure that I do my best not to harm my stator if possible....


 Sorry I explained myself wrongly I just meant you could leave your halogen there but unplugged and add the two small LED on each side.


----------



## superedge88

You could just use something like this




Or these would work as well
Pair CREE 3inch 8W LED Flood Work Lamp Offroad 4WD Truck Tail DRL Lights 12 24V | eBay


----------



## Ladderco6

Superedge, you have the same machine as me (HS928) what would you do if you where in my shoes, the one main light, or the two side lights instead?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

The nice thing about having two lights is you don't have shadows. Gives you a bit more depth perception but it's a bit more of a hassle to mount and wire.
IMHO, I think it's work the trouble.


----------



## superedge88

Ladderco6 said:


> Superedge, you have the same machine as me (HS928) what would you do if you where in my shoes, the one main light, or the two side lights instead?


Given the fact that you have a factory light and mount I would use the factory mount and put the single 15w LED light on it. Honda uses a great location for a single light, and you really do get minimal shadow from the chute. Let us know if you have any questions, please post pictures after your install.


----------



## Ladderco6

I sure will! Thanks for everyone's input!


----------



## david less

Hi everyone, I'm new here, what a great post. 

I purchased a Honda HS1332TAS also, and live in Buffalo (south of it). I was in the middle of the snow storm that reeked havoc on us. I got over 7 feet of snow, and must say, had a ball with my new toy. I almost bought the 928 but a little birdie told me to buck up and get the bigger one, glad I did.

Any way I love to tinker with my toys and make them better and was excited about swapping out my wimpy halogen for a 2000-4000 lumen LCD, lone and behold after reading up to page 52 the wattage out put is only 15, very disappointing to say the least.

I would love to know how you guys found this info about wattage? I'm coming up blank. Wouldn't it be best to just check the power using a trusty meter at full power? I still find it hard to believe Honda would use such a low powered light.

Thanks for any input

David


----------



## JnC

^^ [email protected] mentioned in another thread that you can install coils from the old series engines onto the newer ones to get the 50Watts, at least for the GX240/270 motors, not sure if it applies to the 13hp motor.


----------



## superedge88

david less said:


> Hi everyone, I'm new here, what a great post.
> 
> I purchased a Honda HS1332TAS also, and live in Buffalo (south of it). I was in the middle of the snow storm that reeked havoc on us. I got over 7 feet of snow, and must say, had a ball with my new toy. I almost bought the 928 but a little birdie told me to buck up and get the bigger one, glad I did.
> 
> Any way I love to tinker with my toys and make them better and was excited about swapping out my wimpy halogen for a 2000-4000 lumen LCD, lone and behold after reading up to page 52 the wattage out put is only 15, very disappointing to say the least.
> 
> I would love to know how you guys found this info about wattage? I'm coming up blank. Wouldn't it be best to just check the power using a trusty meter at full power? I still find it hard to believe Honda would use such a low powered light.
> 
> Thanks for any input
> You
> David


You can look at the wattage rating on the bulb, or look up the replacement bulb on a parts lookup. The information is out there.


----------



## ClaudeK

Charging coil swap, from 1A/15W, to 3A/50W
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-928tas-has-less-charging-power-new-post.html


----------



## david less

Thanks guys,

Why do you think Honda went with such a small coil on this engine?
David


----------



## david less

ClaudeK said:


> Charging coil swap, from 1A/15W, to 3A/50W
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-928tas-has-less-charging-power-new-post.html


Thanks very much

David


----------



## coiltothesoil

I, too, have a new Honda HS1332TA blower. I am using the directions at the start of this forum to interface a bridge rectifier for the purpose of upgrading to LED work lighting. Unlike my Craftsman blower, which only had one wire to the light, the Honda has two. One is red and the other is black, but I am not convinced that the black one is ground. Anyone have anything to offer?

I don't know if I am supposed to (a) put each wire on the A/C terminals of the bridge rectifier, (b) crimp both wires together and go onto just one of the A/C terminals, or (c) pick one of them and go to one of the A/C terminals and then on the opposite A/C terminal, connect a ground wire to the chassis?


----------



## superedge88

coiltothesoil said:


> I, too, have a new Honda HS1332TA blower. I am using the directions at the start of this forum to interface a bridge rectifier for the purpose of upgrading to LED work lighting. Unlike my Craftsman blower, which only had one wire to the light, the Honda has two. One is red and the other is black, but I am not convinced that the black one is ground. Anyone have anything to offer?
> 
> I don't know if I am supposed to (a) put each wire on the A/C terminals of the bridge rectifier, (b) crimp both wires together and go onto just one of the A/C terminals, or (c) pick one of them and go to one of the A/C terminals and then on the opposite A/C terminal, connect a ground wire to the chassis?


Test the wires with a meter together and then separately using the metal frame as the negative, tell us what your testing reveals and we can then help you. If you don't have a meter an inexpensive one can be found for 10-20 bucks and is a very valuable tool.


----------



## superedge88

david less said:


> Thanks guys,
> 
> Why do you think Honda went with such a small coil on this engine?
> David


I have no idea why they would go with such a small coil, makes no sense to me. My 928 has a 3 amp coil and I still wish it was a 5 amp.


----------



## coiltothesoil

superedge88 said:


> Test the wires with a meter together and then separately using the metal frame as the negative, tell us what your testing reveals and we can then help you. If you don't have a meter an inexpensive one can be found for 10-20 bucks and is a very valuable tool.


Further down, the wires change color...

So, testing them together, 16.53 VAC; to ground and just green, 3.11 VAC; and to ground and just white, 7.50VAC.


----------



## superedge88

coiltothesoil said:


> Further down, the wires change color...
> 
> So, testing them together, 16.53 VAC; to ground and just green, 3.11 VAC; and to ground and just white, 7.50VAC.


It does seem to be that the wires are meant to be used together, which is what I would assume from your testing. To be double sure you could give honda a call, or you could just try using the wires as the circuit. Put one wire on one of the AC inputs on your rectifier, the other wire on the other AC input on your rectifier.


----------



## coiltothesoil

The bridge rectifier that I purchased from Radio Shack is a 25 Amp, 50 Volt unit. (25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers : Rectifiers | RadioShack.com)

So, assuming the power wires get connected to each A/C input blade on the bridge rectifier, where does ground come in? There won't be ground at the D/C negative spade will there?


----------



## superedge88

coiltothesoil said:


> The bridge rectifier that I purchased from Radio Shack is a 25 Amp, 50 Volt unit. (25A, 50V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers : Rectifiers | RadioShack.com)
> 
> So, assuming the power wires get connected to each A/C input blade on the bridge rectifier, where does ground come in? There won't be ground at the D/C negative spade will there?


Yes there is still a negative for the DC. There are two male spade connectors for DC on your rectifier correct? One is positive and one is negative.


----------



## coiltothesoil

Yes, there are two male spade connectors for DC. However, the first article in this forum talks about connecting the wire from the stator to one of the AC inputs on the rectifier and then connecting a ground wire from the chassis to the other AC input. Thus, my confusion. In another forum, someone discussed connecting a ground wire from the chassis to the DC negative side of the bridge rectifier so the rectifier could be grounded.

My questions: Is the bridge rectifier that I have purchased sufficient for this project? What should I expect to get for DC voltage with my multi-meter, because I was only ready around 3 volts when each of the wires coming off the stator were connected to the two AC input spades on the bridge rectifier? Does the bridge rectifier need to be grounded in some capacity to make a complete circuit?


----------



## david less

The blk wire has to be ground, since the light housing is all plastic I don't think it would be grounded through the mounting screws.

On a second note, Honda builds some well engineered power equipment but I gotta say the engineers and designers on this motor have their heads up their $ss. Reason being, who would not expect any customer not to want grip warmers as an option. My hands freeze operating that thing, now I'm looking to spend 60-100 bucks on a warm pair of ski gloves, not good

David


----------



## superedge88

coiltothesoil said:


> Yes, there are two male spade connectors for DC. However, the first article in this forum talks about connecting the wire from the stator to one of the AC inputs on the rectifier and then connecting a ground wire from the chassis to the other AC input. Thus, my confusion. In another forum, someone discussed connecting a ground wire from the chassis to the DC negative side of the bridge rectifier so the rectifier could be grounded.
> 
> My questions: Is the bridge rectifier that I have purchased sufficient for this project? What should I expect to get for DC voltage with my multi-meter, because I was only ready around 3 volts when each of the wires coming off the stator were connected to the two AC input spades on the bridge rectifier? Does the bridge rectifier need to be grounded in some capacity to make a complete circuit?


Most snowblowers use the frame of the blower as the other side of the AC circuit, so that is why in the first post of this thread you attach the other spade of the rectifier AC input to the metal of the snowblower. It appears that in your case that Honda is supplying the complete AC circuit with the two wires you have discovered and tested at 16.53 Volts AC. So it seems that in your case you have no need to "ground" anything to the frame of your snowblower for your LED light install.
You should be getting a lot more than 3 volts on the DC output of your rectifier, and your rectifier is sufficient for this job, please show us a picture explaining how you have wired your rectifier. Does the wiring of your rectifier match the diagram in the first post of this thread?


----------



## superedge88

david less said:


> The blk wire has to be ground, since the light housing is all plastic I don't think it would be grounded through the mounting screws.
> 
> On a second note, Honda builds some well engineered power equipment but I gotta say the engineers and designers on this motor have their heads up their $ss. Reason being, who would not expect any customer not to want grip warmers as an option. My hands freeze operating that thing, now I'm looking to spend 60-100 bucks on a warm pair of ski gloves, not good
> 
> David


I feel your pain man, I don't know why Honda did this for the model blower you bought.
Check out these gloves.
Field N' Forest Waterproof Musher Gloves - Tan/Black - Mills Fleet Farm
I'm picking up a pair of them. If they're good enough for a musher they're good enough for me blowing some snow!


----------



## david less

superedge88 said:


> I feel your pain man, I don't know why Honda did this for the model blower you bought.
> Check out these gloves.
> Field N' Forest Waterproof Musher Gloves - Tan/Black - Mills Fleet Farm
> I'm picking up a pair of them. If they're good enough for a musher they're good enough for me blowing some snow!


 Thanks for the glove info, very reasonable, if that was labled a ski glove, they would be charging 100 bucks based on my glove research, lol

David


----------



## superedge88

david less said:


> Thanks for the glove info, very reasonable, if that was labled a ski glove, they would be charging 100 bucks based on my glove research, lol
> 
> David


I'll post a video review once I get them. I bet they'd be even more than 100 dollars if they were labeled ski gloves!


----------



## Coby7

Wow this has gone OFF topic!!!


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> Wow this has gone OFF topic!!!


I apologize to the the original poster, I hope he understands


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

This would have been an excellent thread to have closed and then pinned as a sticky for reference. There is a lot of good stuff in here but realistically no one is going to be going through 50+ pages to find it.


----------



## DavidR

Kiss4aFrog said:


> This would have been an excellent thread to have closed and then pinned as a sticky for reference. There is a lot of good stuff in here but realistically no one is going to be going through 50+ pages to find it.


That's not true, I did! 

I'm expecting my parts to arrive tomorrow, and hope to get this done next weekend! Thanks everyone!


----------



## david less

OK, back on the topic.

Based on only being able to use a single 15W LED light and using my stock engine mount for the light would it be better to use a 30 or 60 degree beam? The specs say it give off 1050 lumens.

Also, I'm going to use 2 capacitors rated at 1000 uf @ 35 V rather than the big ones (2200uf 50V) everyone is using. Will they be ok based on my low 15W system?

Thanks for any opinions

David


----------



## superedge88

Kiss4aFrog said:


> This would have been an excellent thread to have closed and then pinned as a sticky for reference. There is a lot of good stuff in here but realistically no one is going to be going through 50+ pages to find it.


I don't think that going of topic for a moment makes this a useless thread. 
The thread can at any time be split by moderators by request from the first post, and then make this thread something like the "led upgrades questions thread".
Of course that would require me to add a ton of info and diagrams to the first post, which I may eventually do.


----------



## superedge88

david less said:


> OK, back on the topic.
> 
> Based on only being able to use a single 15W LED light and using my stock engine mount for the light would it be better to use a 30 or 60 degree beam? The specs say it give off 1050 lumens.
> 
> Also, I'm going to use 2 capacitors rated at 1000 uf @ 35 V rather than the big ones (2200uf 50V) everyone is using. Will they be ok based on my low 15W system?
> 
> Thanks for any opinions
> 
> David


With the factory mounting being so forward on your Honda you'll definitely want the widest beam possible. You should be just fine using those two capacitors.


----------



## david less

superedge88 said:


> With the factory mounting being so forward on your Honda you'll definitely want the widest beam possible. You should be just fine using those two capacitors.


 Thanks Superedge88

David


----------



## Coby7

Or this should be cleaned up and made into a "How To"


----------



## Coby7

Just realised this site doesn't have a "HOW TO" section.

In the "Your Cobalt" forum we have a great DIY section.

http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/install-guides-diy/


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I noticed that too, no stickys.

I wasn't talking about someone moving off topic I'm talking about fifty pages of information on not only how to on the LED but specific problems on specific machines, different discussions on which LEDs, different testing, different stator upgrades, ....

That's what I'm talking about. Having a how to on the LED's and how to convert the AC to DC and parts is great. That should be it's own how to but once you have ten, twenty, thirty guys asking different questions that do have value but are buried in the thread the info's value is wasted compared to if they had started an individual thread on that topic. Like asking about upping a Honda's stator in this thread rather than asking it under the Honda sub forum where there are likely a lot of folks who might be interested if it works. I'm just suggesting how to make the information more available and searchable, not saying anything about going off topic.


----------



## superedge88

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I noticed that too, no stickys.
> 
> I wasn't talking about someone moving off topic I'm talking about fifty pages of information on not only how to on the LED but specific problems on specific machines, different discussions on which LEDs, different testing, different stator upgrades, ....
> 
> That's what I'm talking about. Having a how to on the LED's and how to convert the AC to DC and parts is great. That should be it's own how to but once you have ten, twenty, thirty guys asking different questions that do have value but are buried in the thread the info's value is wasted compared to if they had started an individual thread on that topic. Like asking about upping a Honda's stator in this thread rather than asking it under the Honda sub forum where there are likely a lot of folks who might be interested if it works. I'm just suggesting how to make the information more available and searchable, not saying anything about going off topic.


I understand you better now, no worries. I thought from the image you attached that you were stating that the whole thread was wrecked from being off topic.
I'm happy to compile much of the information into the first post, it will just take me a while to edit things and put it all together into a comprehensive package. I have been brainstorming a simple "how to wire led upgrades " video. But I need to find time to put it together.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

DavidR said:


> That's not true, I did!



And like DavidR, we are all still here asking and answering questions and working stuff out. The value in this thread is still strong.


----------



## Motor City

Tractor Supply is clearancing these lights. Only $5 off at the store near me, at $34.99. But maybe other stores have them lower. Their 15 watts.


----------



## DavidR

I installed my lights yesterday. If not for the run to the hardware store in the middle of the install, it would have taken me about 45 minutes thanks to all the helpful info in this thread. I'm anxious to try them out!

Thanks everyone!


----------



## liftoff1967

DavidR said:


> If not for the run to the hardware store in the middle of the install, it would have taken me about 45 minutes


Isn't that the most frustrating thing!!


----------



## Coby7

DavidR said:


> I installed my lights yesterday. If not for the run to the hardware store in the middle of the install, it would have taken me about 45 minutes thanks to all the helpful info in this thread. I'm anxious to try them out!
> 
> Thanks everyone!


Picture?


----------



## ClaudeK




----------



## DavidR

liftoff1967 said:


> Isn't that the most frustrating thing!!


You're not kidding! I thought I planned this out pretty well ahead of time...but I guess that's why it only required one trip to the hardware store. 



Coby7 said:


> Picture?


Okay, I was planning to post up a photo of these in the dark, but I haven't had a chance to get one yet. So here's a photo showing how I mounted everything:









The project box on the side of the frame houses the bridge rectifier, capacitors, fuses, and switch. The blower already had a mounting bracket on one side for a light, so I picked up an identical bracket for the other side from my local dealer.

While I'm at it, here are links to the bridge rectifier and lights that I used:

Amazon.com: TMH 10w Cree LED Work Light Square Shape 60 Degree Flood Beam Lamp Pack of 2: Automotive

50A 1000V Metal Case Bridge Rectifier with Heatsink KBPC5010 - Gas Welding Accessories - Amazon.com


----------



## ClaudeK

Looks neat. I like the heat sink on that bridge rectifier.


----------



## DavidR

ClaudeK said:


> Looks neat. I like the heat sink on that bridge rectifier.


That's why I chose that one. Another nice thing is that the bottom of the heat sink has a threaded hole, which made it easy to mount to the project box. It does not come with a bolt, so you have to pick that up separately. (I believe it was a M4.)


----------



## Coby7

50 Amp bridge is a bit overkill but better safe than sorry I suppose. A 5 amp would have sufficed.


----------



## ArcherMike

I just got my first brand new snowblower. I actually got it at the end of the season last year but only used it a handful of times. I got an Ariens Compact 24. 

The light is the only thing I dislike about it so far and I plan to install lights similar to what is here. My main problem is I cannot find the amp or wattage rating for this snowblower's light circuit. Ariens dose not give any info other than the replacement bulb part number. I tried to find the wattage of the bulb itself but no one who sells them gives any such information. I would guess other make machines are similar??

How did you folks find the maximum amount of draw you can put on your circuit? I would appreciate any advice.


----------



## ClaudeK

Check wattage (power consumption) of the light (bulb) you have right now. You can try to search for the bulb type and then see what wattage they have. That would be your best bet.


----------



## Normex

ArcherMike said:


> I just got my first brand new snowblower. I actually got it at the end of the season last year but only used it a handful of times. I got an Ariens Compact 24.
> How did you folks find the maximum amount of draw you can put on your circuit? I would appreciate any advice.


You can get the info you need from Ariens, ask them about your stator output and if you don't I wouldn't go beyond 15watts or 2 x 8 watt LED.
Good Luck


----------



## superedge88

ArcherMike said:


> I just got my first brand new snowblower. I actually got it at the end of the season last year but only used it a handful of times. I got an Ariens Compact 24.
> 
> The light is the only thing I dislike about it so far and I plan to install lights similar to what is here. My main problem is I cannot find the amp or wattage rating for this snowblower's light circuit. Ariens dose not give any info other than the replacement bulb part number. I tried to find the wattage of the bulb itself but no one who sells them gives any such information. I would guess other make machines are similar??
> 
> How did you folks find the maximum amount of draw you can put on your circuit? I would appreciate any advice.


It almost will always say the wattage on the bulb, so take your bulb out and check there first. Otherwise you can do an amperage test with a multimeter between your stator and your existing bulb. Let us know if you need help walking through an amperage test.


----------



## ArcherMike

*Thanks*

I didn't think it would be marked because it isn't an industry standard bulb. After work I got a flashlight and there it was, 12V 20W.

This is also good because I was looking at dual 10W lamps. I'll post some pics when I finish. It may be a week or two. I am waiting to install the cab I ordered first so I can decide the best place for mounting.


----------



## superedge88

ArcherMike said:


> I didn't think it would be marked because it isn't an industry standard bulb. After work I got a flashlight and there it was, 12V 20W.
> 
> This is also good because I was looking at dual 10W lamps. I'll post some pics when I finish. It may be a week or two. I am waiting to install the cab I ordered first so I can decide the best place for mounting.


Glad you got it figured out! Looking forward to seeing pictures of your install.


----------



## Holeshot weapon

Quick question... Looks like my snowblower engine puts out AC and DC power. Should I use DC or AC output for my led lights? I bought a bridge rectifier and two capacitors that I am going to install regardless. Is there any harm in using the so called "Dirty DC" as the input to the rectifier or should I use the AC power?


----------



## superedge88

Holeshot weapon said:


> Quick question... Looks like my snowblower engine puts out AC and DC power. Should I use DC or AC output for my led lights? I bought a bridge rectifier and two capacitors that I am going to install regardless. Is there any harm in using the so called "Dirty DC" as the input to the rectifier or should I use the AC power?


Assuming that the DC circuit on your snowblower has the amperage to run your LEDs then I would just ditch bridge rectifier you bought and wire in the caps which will clean up the "dirty DC".


----------



## Holeshot weapon

The DC side is rated @ 36watts and the AC side is rated @ 60watts. I am running two 18 watt LED lights. That would put me right at the max capacity of the DC output of 36 watts. Maybe I am better to keep the rectifier and use the AC side since it is good for 60 watts?


----------



## superedge88

Holeshot weapon said:


> The DC side is rated @ 36watts and the AC side is rated @ 60watts. I am running two 18 watt LED lights. That would put me right at the max capacity of the DC output of 36 watts. Maybe I am better to keep the rectifier and use the AC side since it is good for 60 watts?


That is totally up to you. Since you now mentioned that you have such a high wattage AC circuit I would use the rectifier and be maxing out that AC circuit wattage with some crazy bright LEDs. But I'm a little nuts.  You'll have plenty of light either way.


----------



## ArcherMike

Hi again. I read through most of this thread. Very cool how these people shared their ideas and what was learned. I would like to ask for some advice and ask some questions.

Superedge suggests a 4 amp fuse on the AC side of the circuit and 1 amp fuses on the DC side. Why the difference? The 4 amp fuse I understand based on 1.5X, or so, of your circuit. Superedge, how did you size the 1 amp fuse? I would not have expected that much voltage drop across the rectifier. I estimate my circuit at 1.7 amp draw (based on 20W/12V) so I would have size mine for 2-3 amp fuses.

For the lights, I have narrowed my search down to two finalists. Has anyone used either of these? I am leaning towards the one from Amazon because it is brighter and I am putting together an order anyway, but the one from ebay appears to have better mounting hardware.






2pcs Car Motorcycle 10W LED Eagle Eye Backup Light DRL Running Lamp Cool White | eBay

Today or tomorrow, I will visit the Shack to start amassing the parts I need for this project. 

The thing that set me into motion on this is the light on my new Ariens snowblower really blows (no pun intended). I found a second reason to hate it yesterday when I tried to remove the bulb. The bulb, unlike most standard bulbs, has the connector coming off at 90 degrees to the bulb. The instructions show the connector pointing down with the instructions saying, “turn CCW to remove”. On mine, the connector is to the side, so the chassis is in the way, and the bulb cannot be removed without removing the entire light assembly. Who designs this stuff?

Thanks for reading.
Regards, Mike


----------



## superedge88

ArcherMike said:


> Hi again. I read through most of this thread. Very cool how these people shared their ideas and what was learned. I would like to ask for some advice and ask some questions.
> 
> Superedge suggests a 4 amp fuse on the AC side of the circuit and 1 amp fuses on the DC side. Why the difference? The 4 amp fuse I understand based on 1.5X, or so, of your circuit. Superedge, how did you size the 1 amp fuse? I would not have expected that much voltage drop across the rectifier. I estimate my circuit at 1.7 amp draw (based on 20W/12V) so I would have size mine for 2-3 amp fuses.
> 
> For the lights, I have narrowed my search down to two finalists. Has anyone used either of these? I am leaning towards the one from Amazon because it is brighter and I am putting together an order anyway, but the one from ebay appears to have better mounting hardware.
> 
> XCSOURCE 9W 9-30V 60 Degree 1800 Lumen LED Floodlight Lamp Work Light for Working / Driving / Fog, Off Road Flood light-Jeep Cabin, Boat, SUV, Truck, Car, ATVs Fishing Driving Light Waterproof Round Car Lamp IP67 LD326A - - Amazon.com
> 
> 2pcs Car Motorcycle 10W LED Eagle Eye Backup Light DRL Running Lamp Cool White | eBay
> 
> Today or tomorrow, I will visit the Shack to start amassing the parts I need for this project.
> 
> The thing that set me into motion on this is the light on my new Ariens snowblower really blows (no pun intended). I found a second reason to hate it yesterday when I tried to remove the bulb. The bulb, unlike most standard bulbs, has the connector coming off at 90 degrees to the bulb. The instructions show the connector pointing down with the instructions saying, “turn CCW to remove”. On mine, the connector is to the side, so the chassis is in the way, and the bulb cannot be removed without removing the entire light assembly. Who designs this stuff?
> 
> Thanks for reading.
> Regards, Mike


I like to put very small fuses near the most fragile electronics- the LED's, so I was throwing out a recommendation of very small amperage, though depending on the over all voltage drop if the end user likes to back off of the throttle a lot (I never do) when the blower is just sitting and running- there may be need for raising the amperage of the fuse a touch or else it may blow when no danger is apparent.
Most of the LED's that we are all using are rated for a wide range of voltages, so they have an internal "driver" circuit that will pull whatever amperage needed to give full lighting power at whatever voltage it is seeing (within its rated range)
No one on the forum has posted that they used the lights that you linked to, so let us know if you like them. Most have used something like these and have worked ok when using a capacitor to smooth out the dirty DC coming off of the rectifier.
2"10W CREE Offroad Flood LED Work Light Bar Motorcycle Driving Fog Lamp 12V Boat | eBay


----------



## AndyB

*Vibration damage of LEDs?*

I noticed several guys here have used rubber to dampen vibration to protect the light. Is this really necessary? I would expect LED light to tolerate much more vibration than a halogen bulb and the halogen bulb is hard mounted. 

Is this necessary? Or just glorious overkill? 

I know some people have had LED lights fail, but looking at the thread most of them appear to have skipped the filtering cap. 

When I do my upgrade it would be much easier if I could skip the rubber bushings.

(And many thanks to all of you. This thread has already saved me a BUNCH of time and potential mistakes.)


----------



## superedge88

AndyB said:


> I noticed several guys here have used rubber to dampen vibration to protect the light. Is this really necessary? I would expect LED light to tolerate much more vibration than a halogen bulb and the halogen bulb is hard mounted.
> 
> Is this necessary? Or just glorious overkill?
> 
> I know some people have had LED lights fail, but looking at the thread most of them appear to have skipped the filtering cap.
> 
> When I do my upgrade it would be much easier if I could skip the rubber bushings.
> 
> (And many thanks to all of you. This thread has already saved me a BUNCH of time and potential mistakes.)


I agree with you, the rubber isn't a bad addition, but probably overkill


----------



## AndyB

*How do I determine the amperage of my stator*

I need to pick a set of 2 LED lights for my blower. It seems like my choices are around 10 Watts (per unit) or around 18 watts per unit. I want to install 2 lights. 

Obviously I would prefer the 18 watt units for brightness, but can my stator take it? 

My plan it to wire a SPDT toggle switch to that I am running the stock halogen lamp or the LEDs, but never both at the same time. 

The unit is a Husqvarna 1830HV (no heated grips). 

So how do I determine how much power I can safely draw?


----------



## superedge88

AndyB said:


> I need to pick a set of 2 LED lights for my blower. It seems like my choices are around 10 Watts (per unit) or around 18 watts per unit. I want to install 2 lights.
> 
> Obviously I would prefer the 18 watt units for brightness, but can my stator take it?
> 
> My plan it to wire a SPDT toggle switch to that I am running the stock halogen lamp or the LEDs, but never both at the same time.
> 
> The unit is a Husqvarna 1830HV (no heated grips).
> 
> So how do I determine how much power I can safely draw?


In many cases the stator is sized to only handle the stock headlight wattage, so checking the stock halogen bulb will tell you the wattage. In the case that the stator may be able to produce more watts /amps than the stock headlight - you'll have to call husqvarna to see if they'll tell you your stator amperage rating.


----------



## Jason B

Mine has this, so that means I can add a light. Deciding if I want just a normal halogen, which should just plug in with no mods needs, or go led with the addtional parts...










Anyone in PA that did this want to help?


----------



## superedge88

Jason B said:


> Mine has this, so that means I can add a light. Deciding if I want just a normal halogen, which should just plug in with no mods needs, or go led with the addtional parts...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone in PA that did this want to help?


I responded in the other craftsman thread. 
LEDs are worth the work in my opinion. Halogen is antiquated and can /will fail when you need it most. Let us know what questions you have.


----------



## Jason B

Ok, thanks. With led you need the rectifier, etc. I'm not the best with wires  The other option could be adding a battery powered led, which last a long time and could be removed?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

_"Halogen is antiquated and can /will fail when you need it most."

_My older machines all have incandescent and I haven't had any problems with bulbs. You just need to keep a spare handy as it will burn out sooner or later. I've had LEDs burn out on my cars so it's not like they live forever either.

The nice thing is you can just mount an incandescent and run a wire to the engine and it will work with whatever the engines able to produce (AC or DC) so you don't need a run to Radio Shack for parts and dig out your soldering gun. That said I have modified two to use LEDs.

I just don't think it's time to toss incadescents under the bus, yet.
For 10-14 bucks and four feet of wire a cheap Tractor Supply, Walmart, Northern tool, Harbor Freight, Auto Parts Store ,,, 18 watt sealed beam gets you some safety out there in the dark, cheap and easy.
.


----------



## superedge88

Kiss4aFrog said:


> _"Halogen is antiquated and can /will fail when you need it most."
> 
> _My older machines all have incandescent and I haven't had any problems with bulbs. You just need to keep a spare handy as it will burn out sooner or later. I've had LEDs burn out on my cars so it's not like they live forever either.
> 
> The nice thing is you can just mount an incandescent and run a wire to the engine and it will work with whatever the engines able to produce (AC or DC) so you don't need a run to Radio Shack for parts and dig out your soldering gun. That said I have modified two to use LEDs.
> 
> I just don't think it's time to toss incadescents under the bus, yet.
> For 10-14 bucks and four feet of wire a cheap Tractor Supply, Walmart, Northern tool, Harbor Freight, Auto Parts Store ,,, 18 watt sealed beam gets you some safety out there in the dark, cheap and easy.
> .


I'm not trying to start a debate really, but I guess that is because I feel there is no debate. 
LED's are rated for thousands more hours than incandescent bulbs. Typically the reason that LED's fail early is because of component failure other than the bulb. LED driver technology, as well as proper heat sinking has gotten better, making premature LED failure much less likely.
I guess that I feel like picking halogen over LED is like picking a horse drawn carriage over a car and having to replace a horse from time to time. Sure there are other complications with picking a car over a horse drawn carriage, but the benefits far outweight the disadvantages. But that is just how I feel on the subject.


----------



## superedge88

Jason B said:


> Ok, thanks. With led you need the rectifier, etc. I'm not the best with wires  The other option could be adding a battery powered led, which last a long time and could be removed?


With help from this thread and asking questions here, you don't have to be good at wiring to install an LED utility light. But if you don't have time, tools, or feel confident in wiring, by all means get a halogen and keep it simple.


----------



## NY Toro

In looking for my lighting options, I happened on this thread, great thread....


I have a Toro 1128OXE. 

Went to my local shop, and they wanted 23bux for the stock bulb in a Toro box.
So online we went.
Found the exact replacement bulbs on RockAuto for $3.80 each.

Was hoping someone came out with an LED that went into the housing.
So kept looking on line.
And found this thread.

I found some LED driving lights on amazon, that fit right into the stock housing, but even though they said they were good for 32Vdc in *some* of the advertising, the one I tested blew out when installed into the Toro.
So I guess only designed for the typical 12vdc car system.

I also ordered two of these as a backup..
Lemonbest® 10w 12v Silver LED Underwater Flood Light, IP68 Waterproof Landscape Fountain Lamp, Warm White - Pond Lights - Amazon.com

They have reverse polarity protection, which should indicate their front end has a fullwave bridge rectifier in it's front end.

With the stock 16w halogen light bulb, I tested my Toro's AC light generator, and at Full RPM I get 13.8vac rms, and at idle 9vac rms.

I checked the LED lights I provided a link to, using dc supply on the bench.
Yes, polarity is no concern.
And each drew .250amps at 14vdc.

As couple of posters had mentioned in the thread, these LED assemblies have a "driver" and the driver is "constant power" , not resistive as a normal incandescent bulb is primarily.
So as input voltage decreases, input current increases, till the input is out of the operational range of the circuit. Than things start running out of soap and input current decreases till the driver circuit shuts off.


At 11vdc in, the pair drew 1.3amps , below 11vdc the driver started shutting down, and current decreased quickly.
Above 11vdc, the input current of course decreased.

Testing just one on my Toro at full RPM, the voltage from the generator is 19vac rms with the load of just one.
Tried Two of them, generator output is at 16vac rms, so even with two, not loading the generator as much as the stock 16watt bulb.
I did not notice any flicker.
So no bridge and no cap to add (at least for my Toro)
I tested one at low RPM, but don't remember what the vac rms was.. and forgot to test the two at low rpm.
but at this point, not worried , moving ahead with installing them.

So I can use two of them, keeping the idle up so as not to stress the windings of the generator, or I'll find a water proof switch and just turn on the light when I need them.

I'll remove the stock light housing and install one of them on the stock bracket.

I just ordered a set of stock Toro light bracket parts.
I'll put another one on the other side in the same location as the stock light.

With two, one on each side of the blower , they really paint the area with light. The stock housing had a defused lens, which did well as a flood light, but it was barely usable light, better than nothing.
The two of these are a HUGE improvement.

The other nice thing about the light I linked to above, is the color range, down in the 3500 range.. not a bright blue white or warm white light, which gets tough on the snow.
Down on the 3500 range, its' getting closer to the color of incandescent lighting, to me helping to reduce the glare off the snow.


So for me the pluses are..
going to LED,
- I can add another light and cover more areas, with the 1 halogen my generator was at max load.
- LED should last longer, although, depends on the design as others have mentioned, another factor is if the LED is driven too hard, they dim over time more quickly.
- seems with this model LED light, for me, no bridge needed, no flicker seen.
- with the way I'm doing it, I can go back to the original single halogen light if these LED lights crap out on me.


----------



## kdsek

I am trying to figure out how many amps my stator is rated for. I have a 2014 Ariens PRO 28. with the Briggs 420cc Polar Force pro engine on it (2100 series) I did an online chat with ariens and when asked the stator output they told me the "alternator" puts out 110v with 60w AC. Can that info. be calculated into amps. I am trying to figure out if I can install a 27 watt LED lamp. Without the stock headlight being used. But I would like to be able to use the hand warmers with the LED on. Thanks


----------



## Normex

kdsek said:


> I am trying to figure out how many amps my stator is rated for. I have a 2014 Ariens PRO 28. with the Briggs 420cc Polar Force pro engine on it (2100 series) I did an online chat with ariens and when asked the stator output they told me the "alternator" puts out 110v with 60w AC. Can that info. be calculated into amps. I am trying to figure out if I can install a 27 watt LED lamp. Without the stock headlight being used. But I would like to be able to use the hand warmers with the LED on. Thanks


Superedge I'm sorry to take a jump with this one but here goes:

I think they really meant 12v with 60watts as it is normally.
At 60 watts output the halogen bulb is usually 18 watts and the hand warmers at 25 to 30 watts total so if you install a 27 watt LED light you will have ample room with your stator, this is what I have on mine also but connected directly to a 12v battery and I didn't have to install anything else but if you read this thread carefully yu will be able to have a nice set up. Superedge feel free to comment if I missed something. Good Luck


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

What he said.


----------



## superedge88

Normex said:


> Superedge I'm sorry to take a jump with this one but here goes:
> 
> I think they really meant 12v with 60watts as it is normally.
> At 60 watts output the halogen bulb is usually 18 watts and the hand warmers at 25 to 30 watts total so if you install a 27 watt LED light you will have ample room with your stator, this is what I have on mine also but connected directly to a 12v battery and I didn't have to install anything else but if you read this thread carefully yu will be able to have a nice set up. Superedge feel free to comment if I missed something. Good Luck


By all means, it is just fine to answer questions on this thread, you have a good grasp of this topic. And I agree with your assesment.


----------



## kdsek

Normex said:


> Superedge I'm sorry to take a jump with this one but here goes:
> 
> I think they really meant 12v with 60watts as it is normally.
> At 60 watts output the halogen bulb is usually 18 watts and the hand warmers at 25 to 30 watts total so if you install a 27 watt LED light you will have ample room with your stator, this is what I have on mine also but connected directly to a 12v battery and I didn't have to install anything else but if you read this thread carefully yu will be able to have a nice set up. Superedge feel free to comment if I missed something. Good Luck



So in theory I could actually install two 15w LED lights?


----------



## Normex

kdsek said:


> So in theory I could actually install two 15w LED lights?


I would say yes but as you mentioned before, the existing halogen has to be out or unconnected. Good Luck


----------



## Zim

Hello all! I'm new to the forum and happened to see some posts regarding led lights. I purchased an ariens compact track 24 for this season and like many was disappointed in the factory headlight performance. I live in the country with no street lights so it's pitch dark at night. I installed two 7,000 lumen Cree led battery powered bicycle headlights on my blower. They are sealed and 100% water proof. I even mounted them to the sods of the dash with no holes drilled or wire splicing. These things turn night into day and lasts for hours. I love them! Just another idea. This will leave your electrical system intact for those hand warmers.


----------



## loops52

New to forum have a Craftsman 9hp snowblower Model 536.887992 Tecumseh engine model 143.049001 engine family 3tpxs3182bf have one wire by gas tank hooked up rectifier have 14 -16 volts dc out when i put in capacitors voltage measured 35 to 37 dc out at full throttle both measurements does anyone no why im at a lost plus a set of lights hooked everything to diagram


----------



## Normex

Superedge should come along to help you as he started this gigantic thread.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Zim said:


> I installed two 7,000 lumen Cree led battery powered bicycle headlights on my blower. They are sealed and 100% water proof. I even mounted them to the sods of the dash with no holes drilled or wire splicing. These things turn night into day and lasts for hours. I love them! Just another idea. This will leave your electrical system intact for those hand warmers.


Welcome to the forum 

What make and model light did you use  Since they worked out well for you it would be nice to "see" them and or post a link to where you bought yours.
Would be a nice addition to a blower without a charging system or maybe even a little more light for a limited 1 amp system.


----------



## superedge88

loops52 said:


> New to forum have a Craftsman 9hp snowblower Model 536.887992 Tecumseh engine model 143.049001 engine family 3tpxs3182bf have one wire by gas tank hooked up rectifier have 14 -16 volts dc out when i put in capacitors voltage measured 35 to 37 dc out at full throttle both measurements does anyone no why im at a lost plus a set of lights hooked everything to diagram


What you're saying is confusing. A capacitor can not increase voltage in this type of application. I believe that if you place a load on the circuit that the voltage willl drop, but it is confusing that voltage increased when you installed the capacitor in the circuit, or at leaset it seemed like it did increase. I'm wondering what the voltage range is for the LED light(s) that you are installing? The last part of your post is confusing _ "...plus a set of lights hooked everything to diagram." Did you already install the lights ?- Please clarify.


----------



## loops52

Sorry about the confuse i hooked up one of the Cree lights and it blew right away. Took out the capacitors from the circuit and it worked fine. Then i put back the capacitors back in the circuit and that one blew also very confusing to me as you stated it shouldn't increase voltage. I used a meter and it showed voltage increase with the capacitors. Very odd ,the lights are 2x 10 watt cree leds all components used as described in this thread.


----------



## kdsek

Can someone please check my wiring to see if I have this right? Please note the terminal locations on the rectifier. Does that look correct? Fyi I am installing one 27 watt led light. I have a 60 watt output stator. I will not be using the stock headlight. I will use the hand warmers with the light on. Also the only capacitors my local radio shack had in stock were 220uf 35v. Please let me know if you see a problem with this setup. Thanks for your help.









I can't figure out why my image is sideways. Sorry


----------



## Zim

The LEDs were purchased on Amazon. I used the included mounting hardware to install on my blower. They are adjustable in the up and down direction. The location I chose is perfect and lights are not obstructed by the chute. I get no vibration what so ever in the light. A few well placed zip ties is all you need. I mounted the battery in the included holder and attached it just below the control panel on the uprights for the hand bars. I hope the images are ok.


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Good thread this, helpful for everyone... Got me thinking that the Hella halogen I replaced the stock light on the Yanmarrrrr with could be improved even further.

Had thought to go LED, doing so at the Hill for indoor lighting, but I wanted something fast and simple to kick off the season with, blowing in the dark is weaksauce.

Supplies inbound, thanks for all the good links to what has been working.

Expect updates.


----------



## superedge88

kdsek said:


> Can someone please check my wiring to see if I have this right? Please note the terminal locations on the rectifier. Does that look correct? Fyi I am installing one 27 watt led light. I have a 60 watt output stator. I will not be using the stock headlight. I will use the hand warmers with the light on. Also the only capacitors my local radio shack had in stock were 220uf 35v. Please let me know if you see a problem with this setup. Thanks for your help.
> 
> View attachment 39401
> 
> 
> I can't figure out why my image is sideways. Sorry


Looks great, let us know how it turns out!


----------



## superedge88

loops52 said:


> Sorry about the confuse i hooked up one of the Cree lights and it blew right away. Took out the capacitors from the circuit and it worked fine. Then i put back the capacitors back in the circuit and that one blew also very confusing to me as you stated it shouldn't increase voltage. I used a meter and it showed voltage increase with the capacitors. Very odd ,the lights are 2x 10 watt cree leds all components used as described in this thread.


maybe you could provide a picture of the wiring install? With the information you provided I can't figure out how this could be happening.


----------



## superedge88

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Good thread this, helpful for everyone... Got me thinking that the Hella halogen I replaced the stock light on the Yanmarrrrr with could be improved even further.
> 
> Had thought to go LED, doing so at the Hill for indoor lighting, but I wanted something fast and simple to kick off the season with, blowing in the dark is weaksauce.
> 
> Supplies inbound, thanks for all the good links to what has been working.
> 
> Expect updates.


Welcome. I think that you'll be very happy with led lighting. What led's did you order? I agree, blowing in the dark is weak sauce!


----------



## kdsek

superedge88 said:


> Looks great, let us know how it turns out!


Thanks for your reply Superedge! 
So the 220uf 35v capacitors should work fine? 
(I do not know a lot when it comes to electronic details  )


----------



## superedge88

kdsek said:


> Thanks for your reply Superedge!
> So the 220uf 35v capacitors should work fine?
> (I do not know a lot when it comes to electronic details  )


I believe that should be enough capacitance to protect your LED's and smooth out the dirty DC voltage.


----------



## Coby7

loops52 said:


> Sorry about the confuse i hooked up one of the Cree lights and it blew right away. Took out the capacitors from the circuit and it worked fine. Then i put back the capacitors back in the circuit and that one blew also very confusing to me as you stated it shouldn't increase voltage. I used a meter and it showed voltage increase with the capacitors. Very odd ,the lights are 2x 10 watt cree leds all components used as described in this thread.


What blew, the fuse? or the CREE lamp? Adding capacitors will remove the AC component out of your DC and you should see a slight increase in the voltage reading. Depending on the type of meter you are using analog or digital.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I don't think a capacitor will not do anything to remove AC from DC. That would be a rectifier.

A capacitor's function is to store electricity. It will smooth out some of the voltage spikes by storing electrical energy and fill in lows by supplying some of that stored energy.


----------



## superedge88

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I don't think a capacitor will not do anything to remove AC from DC. That would be a rectifier.
> 
> A capacitor's function is to store electricity. It will smooth out some of the voltage spikes by storing electrical energy and fill in lows by supplying some of that stored energy.


A capacitor will not change AC to DC, but it does clean up dirty DC which is dirty because it still has some of the AC component that the rectifier is unable to remove.
So what you are saying is correct in the basic idea, but in this application the capacitor is being used as a filter for the small remaining frequencies of AC which is evidentally harmful to some LED driver circuits.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> What blew, the fuse? or the CREE lamp? Adding capacitors will remove the AC component out of your DC and you should see a slight increase in the voltage reading. Depending on the type of meter you are using analog or digital.


I read his statement as blowing the LED, but maybe he did mean the fuse?


----------



## Coby7

Most of the new LED lamps including CREE have a built in Rectifier with a DC to DC converter regulator. What the DC to DC voltage converter does is no matter the input voltage within a range (Say 8 to 35 volts) it will always output 12 volts to the LEDs. But this means drawing a lot more current at 8 Volts than at 35 Volts. So a 20 Watt LEDlamp at 12 Volts would draw 1.66 amps but at idle with only 8 Volts at the output it would be drawing 2.5 amps. About .6 amps if the voltage goes as high as he says at full throttle. This is not taking into concideration the efficiency factor of the DC to DC convertor of course.


----------



## kdsek

Mr Fixit said:


> I had suggested a 100 Mfd Filter capacitor at 50 Volt.
> You boys are now playing with a capacitor 220 times more powerful. Before you play with that. Put it in a vise. I suggest you charge it up with a battery charger then put a screw driver across it. That will demonstrate the "Can't hurt anything, or anyone" error here. That is nearing what they call a taser when it discharges suddenly like in your hand. That size capacitor is expensive and 200 times overkill. Also a 9 volt battery can put your heart into failure in some extreme cases my training said.
> I'm legally forced to say something on safety issues.


So the 220uf 35v capacitors should work fine? 
(I do not know a lot when it comes to electronic details )



superedge88 said:


> I believe that should be enough capacitance to protect your LED's and smooth out the dirty DC voltage.


*Can someone give me a little lesson on Capacitors? what does the "uf " value determine in relation to the "v" value? 
Also what would be the minimum capacitor size that could be used for these applications?
Thanks*


----------



## Normex

Coby interesting but people should still go adding the rectifier and capacitor as my 27 watt Led burned right away on the DC output on my Tecumseh engine. I am putting this post here so that people not buy and connect directly.
Mine cost $50.00 + tax


----------



## Coby7

It all depends on the current being drawn and how much ac component you want to remove and at what frequency. If your engine is revving at 3600 that means you need to filter 60Hz AC from your DC but this is only needed if you have distinguishable flickering. I suggest 1000μF at 50Volts if you really read 37 Volts at the output at full throttle for a 20 Watt LED lamp.


----------



## Coby7

Normex said:


> Coby interesting but people should still go adding the rectifier and capacitor as my 27 watt Led burned right away on the DC output on my Tecumseh engine. I am putting this post here so that people not buy and connect directly.
> Mine cost $50.00 + tax


People must research what they buy. If yours burnt that means it didn't have a rectifier regulator circuit. Mine did so I never worried when I installed it.


----------



## Normex

Coby7 said:


> People must research what they buy. If yours burnt that means it didn't have a rectifier regulator circuit. Mine did so I never worried when I installed it.


I agree but for first time buyers one doesn't even know if they come with rectifiers or not or look for this as a matter of fact.


----------



## Coby7

That's why we have this thread going, to educate people on what they need and why. Knowing the stator output of your machine is premordial to selecting the proper LED lamp.


----------



## loops52

Im sorry about the confusion the Cree lamp blew i followed the wiring diagram in this thread. I have hooked up circuits before this is very odd the capacitor is on the dc output after the rectifier + to + - to - ( parallel) as shown . i tested voltage with 2 meter each showing 35 to 37 volts dc. without the capacitor across in parallel to the + and - polarity it shows 15 to 17 volts dc. i have switched out 2 rectifiers and 3 different caps all the same value same results with the 2 meters. When i hook up the Cree lamp without caps in place it worked fine so im assuming it blew with the caps as it exceeded its operational voltage range which they claim is 10 -30 vdc for this lamp.


----------



## Coby7

In that case you might need to wire those in series. They will go dim maybe at idle but at least you won't be exceeding the input voltage. You don't need light at idle anyways.


----------



## loops52

Bare with me just to be clear what will i have to wire in series capacitors or lights ?


----------



## Normex

Coby7 said:


> That's why we have this thread going, to educate people on what they need and why. Knowing the stator output of your machine is premordial to selecting the proper LED lamp.


Now you lose me completely while you're correct for this thread as a very useful tool but I did know my stator's output thank you and why does it have anything to do with burning the LED with proper output from the stator. The reason it burned was with dirty DC.


----------



## Coby7

Didn't mean to upset anybody here. Unfiltered DC means you have AC riding on DC and eventhough your meter might be reading 28 volts DC you could have peaks of 40 and valleys of 5 volts. When I said stator output I meant actual wave and not DC meter reading.


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

superedge88 said:


> Welcome. I think that you'll be very happy with led lighting. What led's did you order? I agree, blowing in the dark is weak sauce!


Thanks... everyone has been super nice, great forum. 

Ordered two sets, will decide if/where/how to mix and match after I get to play with 'em...

First is the 2x10w Cree-based rounds like those pictured toward the beginning of the thread:










And a pair of 2X4" 18w, also Cree-based:










Thinking now is: one or both of the 36w on the machine itself and one/both 10w on the chute, to light up the target area/roostertail. If that only needs one then maybe I'll point the other 10w to the rear, mounted down low, to see and be seen.

The original light had the switch on it, the current Hella does not so when I installed it I also added a toggle switch, where the hole for the choke knob was for the gas-powered version of my machine. Two switches won't fit there and the steel is like armor, don't really want to drill any extra holes... do want two switches though. Found these which should work real slick instead, I think:










We shall see...


----------



## kdsek

Coby7 said:


> It all depends on the current being drawn and how much ac component you want to remove and at what frequency. If your engine is revving at 3600 that means you need to filter 60Hz AC from your DC but this is only needed if you have distinguishable flickering. I suggest 1000μF at 50Volts if you really read 37 Volts at the output at full throttle for a 20 Watt LED lamp.


*Is this in response to my question below?*



kdsek said:


> So the 220uf 35v capacitors should work fine?
> (I do not know a lot when it comes to electronic details )
> 
> 
> 
> *Can someone give me a little lesson on Capacitors? what does the "uf " value determine in relation to the "v" value?
> Also what would be the minimum capacitor size that could be used for these applications?
> Thanks*


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Light reading

Depends on how 'dirty' your output is. Start small and increase as necessary.


----------



## Coby7

Keep in mind that filtering or adding capacitors in this case will not lower peak voltage from the A/C that much unless stator is already at its limit. In other words if your peak voltage is 40 volts and your LED lamp specifies 10-35 you can add all the capacitors you want your LEDs will still be in danger of damage.

Rectified voltage...A bit of theory here with a peak to peak rectified unfiltered voltage of 40V stator output.



The average DC measured on a meter will be the square root of .5 times the peak so 28V if peak is forty. A/C measured will be in the 15 volt range true RMS.



When you add a capacitor you remove some AC component and add DC, the amount depends on the size of the capacitor.



A larger capacitor will give a cleaner and higher level of DC.


----------



## kdsek

So why wouldn't the stock halogen bulb blow? It was rated at 12v 20watts.


----------



## Coby7

Because the filament doesn't have the time to get hot enough that the voltage drops so that the average voltage on the bulb might be 12-14 volts well within norms for a halogen. Had you wired both LED lamps before trying, the load of 20W LED would probably brought the voltage low enough for them to be in spec with the lamps. Did you try them one at a time or both?


----------



## kdsek

Coby7 said:


> Because the filament doesn't have the time to get hot enough that the voltage drops so that the average voltage on the bulb might be 12-14 volts well within norms for a halogen. Had you wired both LED lamps before trying, the load of 20W LED would probably brought the voltage low enough for them to be in spec with the lamps. Did you try them one at a time or both?



*Coby7*- I think you getting me confused with the other guy. As I am not using two LED lamps. I am using one 27 watt LED flood. I have a new Ariens Pro Blower that has a 420cc engine. I contacted both Briggs and Ariens and they both said that I have a stator that puts out 60watts. I believe that equates to 5amps. I am no longer going to use the stock headlight. I was told that the hand warmers should only be drawing about 25watts. I should have 30 to 35 watts to play with. I was told that the hand warmers should only be drawing about 25watts. 

I was simply asking asking for a little education on capacitors.
*"Can someone give me a little lesson on Capacitors? what does the "uf " value determine in relation to the "v" value? 
Also what would be the minimum capacitor size that could be used for these applications?"*
Thanks


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

"V" should be the maximum voltage the capacitor is rated to handle and the "uF" would be it's capacity.
They already posted links but you can also Google it or go to Wiki.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> Because the filament doesn't have the time to get hot enough that the voltage drops so that the average voltage on the bulb might be 12-14 volts well within norms for a halogen. Had you wired both LED lamps before trying, the load of 20W LED would probably brought the voltage low enough for them to be in spec with the lamps. Did you try them one at a time or both?


So what can explain the doubling of voltage that he tested once he wired up the capacitors? Do we just chalk it up to a bad multimeter?


----------



## Coby7

He probably did this test with no load. Adding a capacitor will almost bring DC to peak voltage. I'm guessing he didn't have both connected at the same time and didn't have enough load on the stator, when he added the capacitor the DC voltage went above the LED lamp rating.

I'm speculating here because I wasn't there.


----------



## kjack48230

I'm going to be installing a pair of LED's on my early 90's Honda HS 624. Anyone know off hand what the amps and watts this stator is capable of putting out?


----------



## Coby7

kjack48230 said:


> I'm going to be installing a pair of LED's on my early 90's Honda HS 624. Anyone know off hand what the amps and watts this stator is capable of putting out?


I will need the serial number to help you out on that one. Or you can look it up yourself here.

http://www.hondalawnparts.com/

For instance the HS624 
HS624K1 TA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2000001 TO SZAJ-2021945 has a 4 amp output if wired
HS624K1 TA/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2021946 TO SZAJ-2099999 has a 4 amp output if wired
HS624K1 TA/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2100001 has a 4 amp output if wired
HS624K1 TC/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2000001 TO SZAJ-2099999 has no lamp output
HS624K1 TC/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2100001 has no lamp output
HS624K1 WA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2000001 TO SZAJ-2021945 has a 4 amp output if wired
HS624K1 WA/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2021946 TO SZAJ-2099999 has a 4 amp output if wired
HS624K1 WA/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2100001 has a 4 amp output if wired

So pretty safe to say that if your Honda HS624 has the lamp accessory wire it is good for 4 amps or 50Watts.


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> I will need the serial number to help you out on that one. Or you can look it up yourself here.
> 
> OEM Parts
> 
> For instance the
> HS624K1 TA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2000001 TO SZAJ-2021945 has a 4 amp output if wired
> HS624K1 TA/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2021946 TO SZAJ-2099999 has a 4 amp output if wired
> HS624K1 TA/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2100001 has a 4 amp output if wired
> HS624K1 TC/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2000001 TO SZAJ-2099999 has no lamp output
> HS624K1 TC/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2100001 has no lamp output
> HS624K1 WA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2000001 TO SZAJ-2021945 has a 4 amp output if wired
> HS624K1 WA/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2021946 TO SZAJ-2099999 has a 4 amp output if wired
> HS624K1 WA/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAJ-2100001 has a 4 amp output if wired
> 
> So pretty safe to say that if your HONda HS624 has the lamp accessory wire it is good for 4 amps or 50Watts.


Hey Coby, where are you looking up this information? Thanks!


----------



## Coby7

http://www.hondalawnparts.com/


----------



## Coby7

ALL HS828 have a 12Volt 50Watt stator output if equiped with lamp option.

HS828 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-1000001 TO SZAK-1999999	
HS828K1 TA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2000001 TO SZAK-2042180	
HS828K1 TA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2042181 TO SZAK-2099999	
HS828K1 TA/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2100001 TO SZAK-2119999	
HS828K1 TA/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2120001	
HS828K1 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2000001 TO SZAK-2042094	
HS828K1 TAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2042095 TO SZAK-2099999	
HS828K1 TAS/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2100001 TO SZAK-2119999	
HS828K1 TAS/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2120001	
HS828K1 WA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2000001 TO SZAK-2042180	
HS828K1 WA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2042181 TO SZAK-2099999	
HS828K1 WA/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2100001 TO SZAK-2119999	
HS828K1 WA/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2120001	
HS828K1 WAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2000001 TO SZAK-2042094	
HS828K1 WAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2042095 TO SZAK-2099999	
HS828K1 WAS/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2100001

I assume HS928 owners will want this info also....
These all have a 12Volt 50Watt 4 amp stator output with lamp option.
S928 TA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1100001 TO SZAS-1129999	
HS928 TA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1130001	
HS928 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1100001 TO SZAS-1129999	
HS928 TAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1130001	
HS928 WA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1100001 TO SZAS-1129999	
HS928 WA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1130001	
HS928 WAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1100001 TO SZAS-1129999	
HS928 WAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1130001

These only have a 12Volt 15Watt stator output.

HS928K1 TA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SAVJ-5000001	
HS928K1 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SAVJ-5000001	
HS928K1 WA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SAVJ-5000001	
HS928K1 WAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SAVJ-5000001


----------



## superedge88

Coby7 said:


> ALL HS828 have a 12Volt 50Watt stator output if equiped with lamp option.
> 
> HS828 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-1000001 TO SZAK-1999999
> HS828K1 TA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2000001 TO SZAK-2042180
> HS828K1 TA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2042181 TO SZAK-2099999
> HS828K1 TA/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2100001 TO SZAK-2119999
> HS828K1 TA/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2120001
> HS828K1 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2000001 TO SZAK-2042094
> HS828K1 TAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2042095 TO SZAK-2099999
> HS828K1 TAS/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2100001 TO SZAK-2119999
> HS828K1 TAS/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2120001
> HS828K1 WA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2000001 TO SZAK-2042180
> HS828K1 WA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2042181 TO SZAK-2099999
> HS828K1 WA/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2100001 TO SZAK-2119999
> HS828K1 WA/C SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2120001
> HS828K1 WAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2000001 TO SZAK-2042094
> HS828K1 WAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2042095 TO SZAK-2099999
> HS828K1 WAS/B SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAK-2100001
> 
> I assume HS928 owners will want this info also....
> These all have a 12Volt 50Watt 4 amp stator output with lamp option.
> S928 TA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1100001 TO SZAS-1129999
> HS928 TA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1130001
> HS928 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1100001 TO SZAS-1129999
> HS928 TAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1130001
> HS928 WA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1100001 TO SZAS-1129999
> HS928 WA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1130001
> HS928 WAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1100001 TO SZAS-1129999
> HS928 WAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZAS-1130001
> 
> These only have a 12Volt 15Watt stator output.
> 
> HS928K1 TA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SAVJ-5000001
> HS928K1 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SAVJ-5000001
> HS928K1 WA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SAVJ-5000001
> HS928K1 WAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SAVJ-5000001


Thanks Coby, great info.


----------



## AHODA

Hey guys,
Just trying to find the output on my Honda HS1132TAS. 

From what I have come up with:
Coil Assy lamp 12v/15w 

Is this correct, only 15w output on this big beast?

Thanks.


----------



## superedge88

AHODA said:


> Hey guys,
> Just trying to find the output on my Honda HS1132TAS.
> 
> From what I have come up with:
> Coil Assy lamp 12v/15w
> 
> Is this correct, only 15w output on this big beast?
> 
> Thanks.


With the newer honda snowblowers this seems to be the trend. What year did you purchase your honda?
Assuming that you have 15 watt stator output, here is an option for you to use as a bright LED light, and it's inexpensive.


----------



## Coby7

All the HS1132's have the smaller lamp coil of 12 Volts 15Watts because they were designed for LED lighting.

HS1132 TA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZBF-1000001 TO SZBF-1009999	
HS1132 TA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZBF-1010001	
HS1132 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZBF-1000001 TO SZBF-1009999	
HS1132 TAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZBF-1010001


----------



## bkwudz

Just finished adding 2 LEDs to my 28PRO, this post was a lifesaver, thanks. I wired in a switch to run all lights off, LEDs on and stock on. The cab supports are the perfect spot to mount the lights.

























There was already a hole in the dash under the decal


----------



## Coby7

Nice work, could not have done better myself. You may want to silicone the wire holes, you'd be surprised where snow can be blown in. The snow per say is not the problem but if it melts than re-freezes if can cause havock in connectors and may even crack your nice plastic case.


----------



## liftoff1967

bkwudz said:


> Just finished adding 2 LEDs to my 28PRO, this post was a lifesaver, thanks. I wired in a switch to run all lights off, LEDs on and stock on. The cab supports are the perfect spot to mount the lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was already a hole in the dash under the decal


Nice. Very nice job! you will enjoy the difference this makes.


----------



## bkwudz

Thanks, I plan to seal the wire holes after I'm sure it's good to go. All connections are soldered and heat shrinked.

First test tonight...wholly crap. Now that is some light.

A little video


----------



## AHODA

superedge88 said:


> With the newer honda snowblowers this seems to be the trend. What year did you purchase your honda?
> Assuming that you have 15 watt stator output, here is an option for you to use as a bright LED light, and it's inexpensive.
> Square 15W 5 LED Flood Beam Work Light Fog Driving Light Offroad SUV ATV DC 12V | eBay


It's a 2006 model. I just picked it up this year though.


----------



## AHODA

Coby7 said:


> All the HS1132's have the smaller lamp coil of 12 Volts 15Watts because they were designed for LED lighting.
> 
> HS1132 TA SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZBF-1000001 TO SZBF-1009999
> HS1132 TA/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZBF-1010001
> HS1132 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZBF-1000001 TO SZBF-1009999
> HS1132 TAS/A SNOW BLOWER, JPN, VIN# SZBF-1010001


Bummer, there goes all my big plans for adding multiple LED lamps.
Oh well, 15w should still be much better than what is there now.


----------



## superedge88

AHODA said:


> Bummer, there goes all my big plans for adding multiple LED lamps.
> Oh well, 15w should still be much better than what is there now.


Agreed, it'll be a night and day difference!


----------



## ntomsw

Wow, what a great thread. I never even thought of doing something like this to my new snow blower.

I have a brand new Ariens Deluxe 30 (921032). 

What are my options with that blower? I'd like something as bright as I can go. My driveway is a couple hundred feet long, and the factory headlight is useless. I'd even like some sort of strobe light or something for safety when I get near the main road, and when I am doing my mailbox area. 

Any recommendations? I am totally new to doing this. I can wire them up and stuff, just no idea on where to start.


----------



## Normex

Welcome to the forum, in your case I would read the start of the thread then the last post going back a week or so as I think I saw exactly your model number but to be sure better ask the author of this thread Superedge. Good Luck


----------



## liftoff1967

ntomsw said:


> Wow, what a great thread. I never even thought of doing something like this to my new snow blower.
> 
> I have a brand new Ariens Deluxe 30 (921032).
> 
> What are my options with that blower? I'd like something as bright as I can go. My driveway is a couple hundred feet long, and the factory headlight is useless. I'd even like some sort of strobe light or something for safety when I get near the main road, and when I am doing my mailbox area.
> 
> Any recommendations? I am totally new to doing this. I can wire them up and stuff, just no idea on where to start.


I have the exact same blower as you. If I was you, I would go thru the first 10 pages or so of this thread c a r e f u l l y. It will cover everything you need to know.

Here are my results. 





If you have any model specific questions, PM me thru the forum, and I will do my best to answer them. I don't want to run the risk of derailing this thread into an Ariens thing.


----------



## Normex

ntomsw said:


> I have a brand new Ariens Deluxe 30 (921032).
> Any recommendations? I am totally new to doing this. I can wire them up and stuff, just no idea on where to start.


Here is a thread that will interest you much as there are lots of info regarding your snow blower. again Good Luck (Sorry Lift Off but it fell on my lap.)

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...riens-deluxe-30-stator-output-led-lights.html


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Arrrrr.


















Some of the best factory packaging I have ever seen, mad tite yo.

Lights are much more substantial and hefty than I had thought they would be, very nice. 

Testing to commence henceforth//


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Preliminary results in, first unit out of the box examined, one of the round 10w.

Just the facts ma'am.

Initial impression of robust construction slightly let down by somewhat careless finishing. For example: whatever it's coated in, they did it after the fine threads for the holes were tapped. Noticed right away, trying to thread the bracket to lamp module together, tight as. Ran the allen screw in by itself with some spray lube as you would a tap: two turns in, one turn out/lather rinse repeat. OK, threads clean, goes in fine... this however led me to suspect the integrity of the other three fasteners, namely those holding the 'face' of the lamp onto the body. Not extremely surprised to find one of the three stripped and spinning freely in its bore. Removed the allen screw (and a pile o' aluminum dust), and stuck it back in there with some Loctite 242. Good enough.

Here we add a pic instead of typing a thousand words:










Clear that the width of this bracket is just over 1mm more than the fixture it is meant to embrace... suspect that this is why many internet reviewers stripped the threads/have trouble getting it to stay tight. Bracket is fairly robust and the bolt is not up to compressing against it to maintain tightness in the supplied configuration. Adding a washer between the mounting fixture and bracket removed the slop and allowed for sufficient tightening without distorting the bracket. An even better solution may be to use toothed washers internally on both sides. Don't have some that size kicking around right now it seems, to be explored later.










With the washer in there/fair and square mounting the factory supplied bolt is just a hair too short, will also be rectified. Should have a lock washer under the bolt head too so.

Will check out one of the 18w next...


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Screws all seem solid this time, let's move on to checking some dimensions.

We first look at the width of the lamp mounting fixture, on the light itself.

Callin' it 30.35mm.










Now let's look at the supplied bracket, at the base.










31.57 if I ever saw one.










She spreads 33.40 at the top.

No wonder folks can't get it on...

There will be vices, and washers.


----------



## trx450r1

If I have a Honda hs 724 with a 12v 50watt stator and wired it with the rectifier and ran x2 2200 50v capacitators can I use these by themselves
Amazon.com: SHANREN 2Pcs 4" 18W CREE LED Work Light bar Flood beam 60 degree waterproof for Off-road Truck Car ATV SUV Jeep Boat 4WD ATV Auxiliary Driving Lamp(Park of 2): Automotive

Could I run the above lights with this one?

Amazon.com: Signstek 18W CREE LED Flood Light Headlight Work Light Lamp off Road High Power ATV Jeep 4x4 Tractor off Road Light Fog Driving Bar Rree Truck SUV Car IP67 Waterproof Dustproof Shockproof *Black*: Automotive

Can I run these if they go over a couple of watts?

Amazon.com: Tuff LED Lights 2 X 4" Inch Square 27watt LED Work Lamp Light 1550 Lumen, Off Road, Atv, Utv, Polaris Ranger: Automotive

Or do I have to run the 9w Cree lights that a lot of the guys that are running in this thread?

Thanks


----------



## classiccat

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Screws all seem solid this time, let's move on to checking some dimensions.
> 
> We first look at the width of the lamp mounting fixture, on the light itself.
> 
> Callin' it 30.35mm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's look at the supplied bracket, at the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 31.57 if I ever saw one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She spreads 33.40 at the top.
> 
> No wonder folks can't get it on...
> 
> There will be vices, and washers.


 I have that same lamp ordered!

I have washers...and I have a vice...so I should be g2g-yo!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

trx450r1 said:


> If I have a Honda hs 724 with a 12v 50watt stator and wired it with the rectifier and ran x2 2200 50v capacitators can I use these


The snow blower is capable of running 50 watts of whatever combination you want to do. Even if you do the rectifier and caps you can still use an incandescent or combination of LED and incandescent should you choose.

blower 50 Watts = 5ea of the 9 watt bulbs (45 total) or two of the 18 watt bulbs (38 total) and a single 9 watt (47 total) or one 27 watt and two 9 watt (45 total).

If the blower is capable of producing 50 watts you want to make sure you don't hang more than 50 watts of lighting on it. That 27 watt to the front and the two 9s more to the sides might be a real nice way to go.


----------



## superedge88

Kiss4aFrog said:


> The snow blower is capable of running 50 watts of whatever combination you want to do. Even if you do the rectifier and caps you can still use an incandescent or combination of LED and incandescent should you choose.
> 
> blower 50 Watts = 5ea of the 9 watt bulbs (45 total) or two of the 18 watt bulbs (38 total) and a single 9 watt (47 total) or one 27 watt and two 9 watt (45 total).
> 
> If the blower is capable of producing 50 watts you want to make sure you don't hang more than 50 watts of lighting on it. That 27 watt to the front and the two 9s more to the sides might be a real nice way to go.


Exactly, watts are watts as long as the manufacturer is talking about the power consumption. I have seen some websites that state the watts as the brightness of a light, which is ridiculous.


----------



## Coby7

Kiss4aFrog said:


> blower 50 Watts = 5ea of the 9 watt bulbs (45 total) or two of the 18 watt bulbs (38 total) and a single 9 watt (47 total) or one 27 watt and two 9 watt (45 total).


Should read "blower 50 Watts = 5ea of the 9 watt bulbs (45 total) or two of the 18 watt bulbs (36 total) and a single 9 watt (45 total) or one 27 watt and two 9 watt (45 total).

Or did you just do that to see if I was paying attention


----------



## ClaudeK

50Watts @ 12volt, that means over 4Amp stator, cool.
And 1332 OE is 1Amp, lol. 
I should try 10Amp charging coil for GX390


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Coby7 said:


> Should read "blower 50 Watts = 5ea of the 9 watt bulbs (45 total) or two of the 18 watt bulbs (36 total) and a single 9 watt (45 total) or one 27 watt and two 9 watt (45 total).
> 
> Or did you just do that to see if I was paying attention



Just poor math skills. It's why my projects keep blowing up.


----------



## Prof100

Impressive LED lighting solutions. My old Bolens will have to continue to be lit up by the 100 lumen LED headlamp I wear on my head. I find the LED headlamp is quite effective in the absence of these LED lights shown in this thread that rival landing lights on aircraft.


----------



## superedge88

Prof100 said:


> Impressive LED lighting solutions. My old Bolens will have to continue to be lit up by the 100 lumen LED headlamp I wear on my head. I find the LED headlamp is quite effective in the absence of these LED lights shown in this thread that rival landing lights on aircraft.


Not a bad option if you don't have a lighting circuit.


----------



## Prof100

superedge88 said:


> Not a bad option if you don't have a lighting circuit.


 Yes, they are an effective option with no lighting circuit. Lowe's has a pair of 100 lumen headlamps in a package for $10. You can buy higher powered for a few dollars more on line, but on a dark night this works great. I just wish I had one facing to the back so I don't get run over when speeding drivers on the road I live on cannot see me with my back to them. There is a market for something that snow blower operators and runners could use. 

The country road I live on is quite dark with no street lights but it is a magnet for joggers who seem to like to wear black Ninja outfits. Joggers should consider using a LED light so they can be seen. I have noticed the black Ninja outfits are worn by men. Women wear bright and reflective clothes which is another reason why women live longer.


----------



## Coby7

Prof100 said:


> Impressive LED lighting solutions. My old Bolens will have to continue to be lit up by the 100 lumen LED headlamp I wear on my head. I find the LED headlamp is quite effective in the absence of these LED lights shown in this thread that rival landing lights on aircraft.


Mine has a red flashing lamp in the back that can be switched on or off and has 4 settings for the 3 CREEs in the front. Great when you're at the EODs with a scrapper or a shovel.

All off in position 0



It has a very bright spot light in the middle and a red light in back in position 1



Two smaller wider dimmer flood lights and the red one on in the back in position 2



All lamps on in position 3



All flashing lamps in position 4

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vwkwraw8pbyrpoq/2015-02-13 18.40.43.mp4?dl=0


----------



## Prof100

Coby7 said:


> Mine has a red flashing lamp in the back that can be switched on or off and has 4 settings for the 3 CREEs in the front. Great when you're at the EODs with a scrapper or a shovel.


 That's great. All lighted snow blowers should have the same.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I prefer the Radioshack Fireman's Helmet. It has a bright red beacon to warn traffic of your location and also protects you from falling snow (batteries not included). Have to pick up a few extra now that Radio Shack filed for bankruptcy !!


----------



## Coby7

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I prefer the Radioshack Fireman's Helmet. It has a bright red beacon to warn traffic of your location and also protects you from falling snow (batteries not included). Have to pick up a few extra now that Radio Shack filed for bankruptcy !!


You're obiously better at humour than math


----------



## ntomsw

liftoff1967 said:


> I have the exact same blower as you. If I was you, I would go thru the first 10 pages or so of this thread c a r e f u l l y. It will cover everything you need to know.
> 
> Here are my results.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78zIXIadcPU
> 
> If you have any model specific questions, PM me thru the forum, and I will do my best to answer them. I don't want to run the risk of derailing this thread into an Ariens thing.




Mine has a different motor, and different levers and stuff. Mine has the new Ariens AX motor, and levers are in a different spot and stuff. Not sure if anything else is different. 

What did you pay total for the lights, where did you get them, etc? Not sure if your video said it or not, maybe I missed it. Thanks!


----------



## liftoff1967

ntomsw said:


> Mine has a different motor, and different levers and stuff. Mine has the new Ariens AX motor, and levers are in a different spot and stuff. Not sure if anything else is different.
> 
> What did you pay total for the lights, where did you get them, etc? Not sure if your video said it or not, maybe I missed it. Thanks!


I followed Hawk's lead on the first pages of this thread and got everything off ebay. The guy he went with was not selling them when I got mine. Ended up going with a guy called "jeff the bartender" or something like that. I made sure I got the lights with the blue and brown wires. I think I spent a total of $50.00 for the lights, inline fuses, and bridge.

I just looked, and the guy I got both of my sets from is still selling them


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Addendum to earlier post re. stripped hole in one of those 10w; decided not to be happy with the Loctite. Allen screw is an M3, found some slightly longer @10mm. Probing the depths with a toothpick said it would be mighty close so I trimmed the screw a little, couple of mm, beveling the end just slightly and cleaning it up real good. Went in tight, easy does it, but it did catch some thread and snug down well. Never know it happened:










Just in case anyone else runs into a similar problem//


----------



## ntomsw

liftoff1967 said:


> I followed Hawk's lead on the first pages of this thread and got everything off ebay. The guy he went with was not selling them when I got mine. Ended up going with a guy called "jeff the bartender" or something like that. I made sure I got the lights with the blue and brown wires. I think I spent a total of $50.00 for the lights, inline fuses, and bridge.
> 
> I just looked, and the guy I got both of my sets from is still selling them
> 2 x 10W LED CREE Spot Head Light Off Road Beam for Car Jeep Vehicle ATV UTV SUV | eBay



Oh nice, thank you. Cancel what I said before in another thread. I know now we do have same blower, just SLIGHTLY different motor. My handles are in a different spot though. Weird why they change that stuff up.

Where did you get your tail lights from?


----------



## liftoff1967

ntomsw said:


> Where did you get your tail lights from?


Ebay as well, some trailer place, they are clear lens with red LED's. Very low volt, as I feel I'm getting close to max capacity when I have my heated grips on. 

Course this season I have only used my big blower twice. Rest has been done with the little path pro. That little rig sure does a nice job of getting right down to the black top.


----------



## classiccat

I recently got a bug up my butt to outfit my '89 Toro 824 with an LED floodlight. It has an HM80 powerplant without a stator or alternator. A few ebay purchases later...

611111 Stator:


HMSK80 - 155545U Flywheel (_right_):


Putting-out 23VAC RMS @ 3600 RPM (60hz).


I made a little handlebar bracket-slash-housing:




Added the AC to DC conversion circuitry:




And she's cranking out 50VDC  (_EDIT: No load voltage; I was expecting about 33VDC based on previously measured stator output...but need to apply a load before getting too excited_)


I bet that 50V cap enjoyed that ride. 

If I don't have a flywheel / stator mismatch (*EDIT: Confirmed that 611111 is the correct stator for this flywheel*), 

I'll load test it (to put out ~ 12-15W) to see what it drops too.


----------



## classiccat

^^^ held a lawn tractor bulb to the DC output & voltage settles in a more comfortable range (ran out of hands to take a picture ).

I am a little concerned about the 50V cap when I have the flood lamp is turned-off. I'll probably put-in some form of voltage regulator for when the switch isn't on; I should have a handfuls of zeners stashed away from my past life as an industrial electrician.


----------



## Coby7

What voltage is your lights?


----------



## classiccat

Coby7 said:


> What voltage is your lights?


9-32VDC

one of these bad boys (still waiting on the brown truck):









I recall seeing a bag full of 5V zeners in one of my boxes...thinking 6 should do it


----------



## Coby7

How many lights are you adding? It might be enough to bring voltage down to acceptable levels. I added one similar of those on mine and I leave it on all the time, makes me easier seen by cars and especially plows when snow is blowing across the road when tackling EOD.


----------



## classiccat

Coby7 said:


> How many lights are you adding? It might be enough to bring voltage down to acceptable levels. I added on of those on mine and I leave it on all the time, makes me easier seen by cars and especially plows when snow is blowing across the road.


 It's only an 18w stator so 1 flood is all that she can handle. Once you throw a load on it, output voltage is good. 

A regulator circuit unfortunately doesn't come for free...so if I want to keep this flood & baby my smoothing cap, I'd need a DPDT toggle -or- I can just get a smoothing cap rated for higher voltage for no load -or- I can just always run the LED flood


----------



## Coby7

I would, it's like a daytime running light. Be safe be seen.


----------



## superedge88

Whenever I blow snow I have my lights on. Why not?


----------



## classiccat

superedge88 said:


> Whenever I blow snow I have my lights on. Why not?


Thanks for the suggestions guys!! I'll likely run it constantly like you suggest. (_this thread rocks BTW_!)

Regarding the switch, that's just how I'm......_wired_ 

Simple solution ..._for my own sanity in addition to the fact that I already have the hole in my box & the components available...._ is a Double-throw switch & a 20 Ohm power/load resistor (20W). That should hold the output at 19VDC and just below 1A in the event that the LED-lamp is off (_or the lamp craps-out and I want to use the blower without cooking my smoothing cap_).

EDIT: ^^^ plus that load resistor will give me a place to warm my hands


----------



## Coby7

Yup, that should work, maybe, hopefully this will not produce a voltage spike on your electrolytic capacitor when you break before make and vice versa on your LED lamp when you break away from the resistor load and switch to light. Hole plug might be your best bet and forget the switch.


----------



## classiccat

Coby7 said:


> Yup, that should work, maybe, hopefully this will not produce a voltage spike on your electrolytic capacitor when you break before make and vice versa on your LED lamp when you break away from the resistor load and switch to light. Hole plug might be your best bet and forget the switch.


 That's the beauty of using a 2200uF cap (_relatively long transient phase_). The switch is double-throw.


----------



## Coby7

Capacitor yes, but can your LED light take a 50 surge when you switch from the resistive load to the LED unless you do it at idle maybe. Double throw don't matter when you disconnect from the load your voltage will go up to 50VDC again unless you are idling.


----------



## classiccat

Ahh...I think I see the confusion. Im only switching the lamp (not the entire dc circuit.) That big Cap will always be there to smooth switching noise. I'll draw out the circuit when Im on a pc again if that helps. I'll also hook up a peak voltage adapter to see what kind of switching noise we are actually getting....I use it for measuring trigger pulses (tiny duty cycles) when working outboard ignitions.


----------



## Coby7

I understand, no need for diagram. What I'm saying is when you toggle your switch and disconnect the resistor and connect the LEDlamp for a split second there will be no load on the stator and voltage will jump to maximum DC before contacts touch on the other side unless you have a make before break switch.


----------



## classiccat

Coby7 said:


> I understand, no need for diagram. What I'm saying is when you toggle your switch and disconnect the resistor and connect the LEDlamp for a split second there will be no load on the stator and voltage will jump to maximum DC before contacts touch on the other side unless you have a make before break switch.


You're spot-on there about the brief no-load condition attributed to the double-throw. Back of the envelope says we'll be around 40V in a millisecond or 2 (1 time constant)! That of course assumes a constant voltage source which isn't entirely accurate here; there's also an inductive transient response from the stator. This project is becoming more interesting than I thought!


----------



## NY Toro

So easy quick install.

I purchased a 2nd Toro bracket, U bolt, and hardware from Jacks, for about 10bux.

Removed the old light.
Installed new bracket on the other side.
Installed new lights.

I had purchased a mate for the existing plug for the existing Toro light.

Wired up the lights to a switch that's meant for the ATVs and adding lights.

At full throttle, about 17.5vac @ .650Amps, so even with the two of these LED lights, much lighter load than the stock halogen (was at 13.5vac) which has less light output.

Mid throttle I hit 1amp, and than the drivers start shutting down, and the current decreases. So no real need for the switch, but most of my snow removal is in the day light, so it will save life on the LEDs.
Depending on the design, how over driven they are or not, they can dim as the hours accumulate.

These lights from Amazon, with the reverse polarity protection have the Full wave bridge built into them, so just wire up and go... no need to mount and wire a bridge rectifier.

I originally tested with just one, and it was @ 19VAC, before wiring it all up, there was no flicker. Being at 17.5VAC, I expect all to be the same and the brightness not much difference.
With the original 1 light setup, I had terrible shadows on the left side of the machine from the chute and motor, expect all of that to be gone now.

EDIT, adding night time pix...


































NY Toro said:


> In looking for my lighting options, I happened on this thread, great thread....
> 
> 
> I have a Toro 1128OXE.
> 
> Went to my local shop, and they wanted 23bux for the stock bulb in a Toro box.
> So online we went.
> Found the exact replacement bulbs on RockAuto for $3.80 each.
> 
> Was hoping someone came out with an LED that went into the housing.
> So kept looking on line.
> And found this thread.
> 
> I found some LED driving lights on amazon, that fit right into the stock housing, but even though they said they were good for 32Vdc in *some* of the advertising, the one I tested blew out when installed into the Toro.
> So I guess only designed for the typical 12vdc car system.
> 
> I also ordered two of these as a backup..
> Lemonbest® 10w 12v Silver LED Underwater Flood Light, IP68 Waterproof Landscape Fountain Lamp, Warm White - Pond Lights - Amazon.com
> 
> They have reverse polarity protection, which should indicate their front end has a fullwave bridge rectifier in it's front end.
> 
> With the stock 16w halogen light bulb, I tested my Toro's AC light generator, and at Full RPM I get 13.8vac rms, and at idle 9vac rms.
> 
> I checked the LED lights I provided a link to, using dc supply on the bench.
> Yes, polarity is no concern.
> And each drew .250amps at 14vdc.
> 
> As couple of posters had mentioned in the thread, these LED assemblies have a "driver" and the driver is "constant power" , not resistive as a normal incandescent bulb is primarily.
> So as input voltage decreases, input current increases, till the input is out of the operational range of the circuit. Than things start running out of soap and input current decreases till the driver circuit shuts off.
> 
> 
> At 11vdc in, the pair drew 1.3amps , below 11vdc the driver started shutting down, and current decreased quickly.
> Above 11vdc, the input current of course decreased.
> 
> Testing just one on my Toro at full RPM, the voltage from the generator is 19vac rms with the load of just one.
> Tried Two of them, generator output is at 16vac rms, so even with two, not loading the generator as much as the stock 16watt bulb.
> I did not notice any flicker.
> So no bridge and no cap to add (at least for my Toro)
> I tested one at low RPM, but don't remember what the vac rms was.. and forgot to test the two at low rpm.
> but at this point, not worried , moving ahead with installing them.
> 
> So I can use two of them, keeping the idle up so as not to stress the windings of the generator, or I'll find a water proof switch and just turn on the light when I need them.
> 
> I'll remove the stock light housing and install one of them on the stock bracket.
> 
> I just ordered a set of stock Toro light bracket parts.
> I'll put another one on the other side in the same location as the stock light.
> 
> With two, one on each side of the blower , they really paint the area with light. The stock housing had a defused lens, which did well as a flood light, but it was barely usable light, better than nothing.
> The two of these are a HUGE improvement.
> 
> The other nice thing about the light I linked to above, is the color range, down in the 3500 range.. not a bright blue white or warm white light, which gets tough on the snow.
> Down on the 3500 range, its' getting closer to the color of incandescent lighting, to me helping to reduce the glare off the snow.
> 
> 
> So for me the pluses are..
> going to LED,
> - I can add another light and cover more areas, with the 1 halogen my generator was at max load.
> - LED should last longer, although, depends on the design as others have mentioned, another factor is if the LED is driven too hard, they dim over time more quickly.
> - seems with this model LED light, for me, no bridge needed, no flicker seen.
> - with the way I'm doing it, I can go back to the original single halogen light if these LED lights crap out on me.


6735676669838560


----------



## classiccat

classiccat said:


> I recently got a bug up my butt to outfit my '89 Toro 824 with an LED floodlight. It has an HM80 powerplant without a stator or alternator. A few ebay purchases later...
> 
> 611111 Stator:
> 
> 
> HMSK80 - 155545U Flywheel (_right_):
> 
> 
> Putting-out 23VAC RMS @ 3600 RPM (60hz).
> ...
> 
> Added the AC to DC conversion circuitry:
> 
> 
> 
> And she's cranking out 50VDC  (_EDIT: No load voltage; I was expecting about 33VDC based on previously measured stator output...but need to apply a load before getting too excited_)
> 
> 
> I bet that 50V cap enjoyed that ride.
> 
> If I don't have a flywheel / stator mismatch (*EDIT: Confirmed that 611111 is the correct stator for this flywheel*),
> 
> I'll load test it (to put out ~ 12-15W) to see what it drops too.


Update on the retrofitted HM80 using the 611111 stator. The 18W (6x3w) LED Cree Floodlamp arrived today. I finished the installation this evening & observed strong performance at both idle & full throttle:


2100RPM: 11.0VDC
3500RPM: 23.0VDC

I was pleasantly surprised by the results (_that driveway floodlight is off...that's a reflection_):


I'm waiting on a 30V-50W zener & a 20W load resistor to complete the switching circuit.

I probably would've left well-enough alone if I hadn't stumbled on this great thread!! Thanks Again!


----------



## stihl066

*LEDs on Husqvarna*

I'm going to wire in these two LEDs this weekend:


----------



## Normex

Stih066, is that the location where they will go as if you encounter drifts or snow above the bucket might be a problem. The lights seem to be 18 watts if calculated at 3 watts/led which in total gives you 36 watts to make sure the stator is not overtaxed. Just a suggestion.


----------



## CaptGump

*Gump's light upgrade*

Hello Gentlemen.
I started reading this thread a few weeks ago and thought I'd upgrade the light on my Ariens Compact 24. It had a single 20w halogen mounted on the front handle bars.
I added 2 Cree 18w LED lights mounted on aluminum L brackets. I also added a water proof push switch to the control panel. Fortunately there was a pre drilled hole in the panel that the switch fit perfectly.

Here's a pic:


----------



## stihl066

Normex said:


> Stih066, is that the location where they will go as if you encounter drifts or snow above the bucket might be a problem. The lights seem to be 18 watts if calculated at 3 watts/led which in total gives you 36 watts to make sure the stator is not overtaxed. Just a suggestion.


Hi Normex, there were two pre-stamped square holes in the auger bucket at that location, so I thought I'd try the lights there for starters. I may move them up higher towards the control handles if they end up getting buried in drifts.

I recall reading in the manual that the stator can produce 3 amps and it's putting out 18 volts, so I'm assuming 54 watts would be the max. I'm hoping I'm safe at drawing 36 watts from the stator.


----------



## Normex

stihl066 said:


> I recall reading in the manual that the stator can produce 3 amps and it's putting out 18 volts, so I'm assuming 54 watts would be the max. I'm hoping I'm safe at drawing 36 watts from the stator.


 Stilh, at 3 amps you are just at its limit by the 1amp =12watts rule used here.
Good Luck


----------



## bosco659

I recently installed an LED light on my Toro 826OE. I was ready to install a bridge rectifier but I decided to try it out 1st. To my surprise it has no flickering whatsoever (or maybe it does and I just can't notice it). Am I ok to keep running it like this or will I damage something if I dont put the rectifier in?


----------



## NY Toro

bosco659 said:


> I recently installed an LED light on my Toro 826OE. I was ready to install a bridge rectifier but I decided to try it out 1st. To my surprise it has no flickering whatsoever (or maybe it does and I just can't notice it). Am I ok to keep running it like this or will I damage something if I dont put the rectifier in?


Me too, I did it on my Toro 1128OXE.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/520977-post720.html

The LED light I purchased has "reverse polarity protection" (more so it's not polarity sensitive) , which means it has a full wave bridge in it already.
I used two of them...
works great, no flicker at all.

you don't need the bridge.

Measure the AC voltage at the lamp.
What is the rating of the light assembly?





47155156250318


----------



## Jason B

NY Toro said:


> So easy quick install.
> 
> I purchased a 2nd Toro bracket, U bolt, and hardware from Jacks, for about 10bux.
> 
> Removed the old light.
> Installed new bracket on the other side.
> Installed new lights.
> 
> I had purchased a mate for the existing plug for the existing Toro light.
> 
> Wired up the lights to a switch that's meant for the ATVs and adding lights.
> 
> At full throttle, about 17.5vac @ .650Amps, so even with the two of these LED lights, much lighter load than the stock halogen (was at 13.5vac) which has less light output.
> 
> Mid throttle I hit 1amp, and than the drivers start shutting down, and the current decreases. So no real need for the switch, but most of my snow removal is in the day light, so it will save life on the LEDs.
> Depending on the design, how over driven they are or not, they can dim as the hours accumulate.
> 
> These lights from Amazon, with the reverse polarity protection have the Full wave bridge built into them, so just wire up and go... no need to mount and wire a bridge rectifier.
> 
> I originally tested with just one, and it was @ 19VAC, before wiring it all up, there was no flicker. Being at 17.5VAC, I expect all to be the same and the brightness not much difference.
> With the original 1 light setup, I had terrible shadows on the left side of the machine from the chute and motor, expect all of that to be gone now.
> 
> EDIT, adding night time pix...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6735676669838560


Wait, you are telling me you ordered these lights:

Lemonbest® 10w 12v Silver LED Underwater Flood Light, IP68 Waterproof Landscape Fountain Lamp, Warm White - Pond Lights - Amazon.com

And you don't have to get that bridge rectifier and wire all that extra stuff?


----------



## NY Toro

Yup !




jason b said:


> wait, you are telling me you ordered these lights:
> 
> lemonbest® 10w 12v silver led underwater flood light, ip68 waterproof landscape fountain lamp, warm white - pond lights - amazon.com
> 
> and you don't have to get that bridge rectifier and wire all that extra stuff?


346


----------



## NY Toro

this weekend, just took advantage of the light in the switch.

The switch is a lighted switch, a 3rd connector for ground for the light, but it's rated for 12vdc , so measured it's current at 13.5vdc, tested it at 18vac with a resistor I calculated ,,, 3.3K , made up the ground lead with the 3.3k resistor, and now the switch is lighted...


364


----------



## superedge88

bosco659 said:


> I recently installed an LED light on my Toro 826OE. I was ready to install a bridge rectifier but I decided to try it out 1st. To my surprise it has no flickering whatsoever (or maybe it does and I just can't notice it). Am I ok to keep running it like this or will I damage something if I dont put the rectifier in?


Unless you have a built in bridge rectifier (few LED lights do) then you may greatly reduce the life of the LED driver circuit by running it on AC. Some LED driver circuits can withstand AC, but to be safe I would install a bridge rectifier and a capacitor. Some have rolled the dice and have had no issue, while others have gambled and burned up some LED lights. Your choice.


----------



## NY Toro

Jason B said:


> Wait, you are telling me you ordered these lights:
> 
> Lemonbest® 10w 12v Silver LED Underwater Flood Light, IP68 Waterproof Landscape Fountain Lamp, Warm White - Pond Lights - Amazon.com
> 
> And you don't have to get that bridge rectifier and wire all that extra stuff?


one of the original listings for it, listed 10-32v in .
I can't find that original listing.
all the listings I see now on amazon just say "12v" , no range.

In looking for the original listing, found another listing does rate it for AC or DC input, as I suspected.

The original listing that listed 10-32v also had a bullet point of "reverse polarity protection". 
And it is, I tested one on a dc source on the bench, polarity doesn't matter. The way it's done is with a full wave bridge for the input.

I tried to find an OEM spec sheet, but nothing.

I've run one light up to 20vdc in on the bench, monitoring the input current and brightness, and all seemed normal. In my original post, I had tested the low end, and it confirmed the original listing. 
It's not hard to for a driver design to handle a 2:1 input range using PWM.

So yea, between knowing it has a full wave bridge rectifier for it's front end, and the originally seen rating for 10-32 in, went with these and so far soo good. with the two of them, I'm seeing 17.5Vac.
Just put another 2hrs on them with the recent snow fall we had Saturday night.






691


----------



## ctjk

hi everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a little problem that i don't know what i did wrong. i just bought a 27W Round LED Work Light Lamp Off Road High Power ATV Jeep 4x4 Tractor 30 Degree Spot Light. I also bought a bridge rectifier followed by your link. I connected exactly what you instructed. The light came on for about 5 seconds and turned right off. I checked the Light and found out that the light is blown. i don't know what i did wrong. please help. I have a HS828TAS. thank you in advance.


----------



## superedge88

ctjk said:


> hi everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a little problem that i don't know what i did wrong. i just bought a 27W Round LED Work Light Lamp Off Road High Power ATV Jeep 4x4 Tractor 30 Degree Spot Light. I also bought a bridge rectifier followed by your link. I connected exactly what you instructed. The light came on for about 5 seconds and turned right off. I checked the Light and found out that the light is blown. i don't know what i did wrong. please help. I have a HS828TAS. thank you in advance.


Did you hook up a capacitor? Some Led lights are very touchy if the DC voltage from the rectifier isn't smoothed with a capacitor.


----------



## JRHAWK9

ctjk said:


> hi everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a little problem that i don't know what i did wrong. i just bought a 27W Round LED Work Light Lamp Off Road High Power ATV Jeep 4x4 Tractor 30 Degree Spot Light. I also bought a bridge rectifier followed by your link. I connected exactly what you instructed. The light came on for about 5 seconds and turned right off. I checked the Light and found out that the light is blown. i don't know what i did wrong. please help. I have a HS828TAS. thank you in advance.


Sounds like you didn't wire in a smoothing capacitor. Don't fret, as I went through 2 or 3 lights in that same manner till I figured it out. Each one lasted a very short time and then bam....done.

edit....dang, Super beat me to it!


----------



## ctjk

superedge88 said:


> Did you hook up a capacitor? Some Led lights are very touchy if the DC voltage from the rectifier isn't smoothed with a capacitor.


i didn't hook up to any capacitor. i thought it wasn't that necessary. So capacitor is a must? anything else do i need beside that? Thanks....


----------



## superedge88

ctjk said:


> superedge88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you hook up a capacitor? Some Led lights are very touchy if the DC voltage from the rectifier isn't smoothed with a capacitor.
> 
> 
> 
> i didn't hook up to any capacitor. i thought it wasn't that necessary. So capacitor is a must? anything else do i need beside that? Thanks....
Click to expand...

Only some LED lights are touchy enough to blow when receiving "dirty" DC. I had a Toro that I put led's on that didn't have a smoothing capacitor and it worked fine for months till I sold the blower.
Should just need the capacitor for that specific model of led light and it should work fine.


----------



## ctjk

superedge88 said:


> Only some LED lights are touchy enough to blow when receiving "dirty" DC. I had a Toro that I put led's on that didn't have a smoothing capacitor and it worked fine for months till I sold the blower.
> Should just need the capacitor for that specific model of led light and it should work fine.


Thank you so much for your help. I will try that next time. Have to order another Led lights and a couple of 2200mfd 50v capacitors. gonna take a few days to arrive. thanks again. one more question would you recommend Led spot light or Flood?


----------



## superedge88

ctjk said:


> superedge88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Only some LED lights are touchy enough to blow when receiving "dirty" DC. I had a Toro that I put led's on that didn't have a smoothing capacitor and it worked fine for months till I sold the blower.
> Should just need the capacitor for that specific model of led light and it should work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for your help. I will try that next time. Have to order another Led lights and a couple of 2200mfd 50v capacitors. gonna take a few days to arrive. thanks again. one more question would you recommend Led spot light or Flood?
Click to expand...

I typically recommend the wider dispersion pattern, so floodlight is the blanket recommendation for snowblowers. And you are very welcome, ask any other questions you have that come up.


----------



## ziggyjoe

Hi guys. Im a newbie to this site but I have to thank Super and Jr for all the great info and I'm about to jump in and give it a try, BUT I do have one question. The bulb in my Husqvarna 10530SBE is a 35watt bulb. Does that mean that I can use led lights that add up or come close to 35watts. Like the two 10w lights that you guys are using which only adds up to 20w? I'm still a little confused on the caps and fuse locations but I think by going through this thread a couple more times, I will figure it out. I am mechanically inclined but not an electrician so diagrams that electrician would understand kind of have me baffled but I will figure it out.
Once again thanks you guys for such a great thread.

Thanks


----------



## Coby7

Yes, you could put up to three 10 Watt LED lights.


----------



## ziggyjoe

Thanks Coby7


----------



## NY Toro

The issue with using a load that is too light, is that the output is un-regulated, and will be higher than with the stock , heavier load bulb.
The designers seems to match the load to the output fairly well, so with it's proper load it's at the desired Voltage.

So best to match the load.

For those that have lost an LED light, might want to double check the voltage at the light when it's lit.
Not all lights have a wide input operational range.

53845404


----------



## Prof100

*21" Bolens 2 stage has no power for lights*

I really like all the LED upgrades on the snowblowers in this thread but not all snow blowers have on board power sources. I have found that with my old 21" 2 Stage Bolens I simply use a LED head strap to light up the night. My latest CRED LED lights are supposedly 5000 lumens. I have no way of testing it but the higher output lights available on Amazon.com come with 2 LED bulbs adjustable to low, medium and high; aluminum case for heat dissipation; a headstrap; charger and a 6800 mah LiIon pack and even AAA powered red LED that stands alone and be clipped to the head strap. Price was $35 shipped free. Lighting is more than sufficient for night time snow blowing. Run time is well over 3 hours on one charge and medium light level. Pictures of it in action do not do it justice in terms of how well it lights up the night. 

. 









Below is a nighttime picture shot looking down my 200 foot driveway. It doesn't do justice to how well the LEDs on the headstrap work. 










This photo shows how tight a beam the light shines, but the less bright area is much better than any LED headstrap light I have used before.










This photo shows how well the CREE lights light up the dark north side of my residence. The outbuilding is at least 150 feet away.











Overall, I am very pleased. The LEDS with 3 levels of intensity and strobe setting which could cause seizures is pretty impressive. I will probably use it on the low or medium setting. 

As a final picture below is the AAA battery powered clip on red LEDs that can be user selected into everything from a steady red light to strobes to flashing.


----------



## ziggyjoe

*Husqvarna 10530SBE Power*

Prof100 Not bad light at all. I do have a set coming from Ebay That have the 3 leds at 6000LM. So now I know after seeing your pics that they should be great. Thanks for the pics.


----------



## Prof100

ziggyjoe said:


> Prof100 Not bad light at all. I do have a set coming from Ebay That have the 3 leds at 6000LM. So now I know after seeing your pics that they should be great. Thanks for the pics.


 You are welcome. I find the highest power is really just entertainment. It is not needed. The amazing part is the technology progression never stops. These are rivaling projector bulbs on cars. The higher power lights put out a lot of heat. The aluminum housing / heat sink gets hot.


----------



## superedge88

NY Toro said:


> The issue with using a load that is too light, is that the output is un-regulated, and will be higher than with the stock , heavier load bulb.
> The designers seems to match the load to the output fairly well, so with it's proper load it's at the desired Voltage.
> 
> So best to match the load.
> 
> For those that have lost an LED light, might want to double check the voltage at the light when it's lit.
> Not all lights have a wide input operational range.
> 
> 53845404


YES!! Always test the voltage with a multimeter to make sure that everything is within safe voltage ranges!


----------



## ziggyjoe

Super, I'm not the brightest when it comes to electrical items. So I'm really not sure how to test the blower with a multimeter. Really strange though, I wired my whole garage and when inspected he thought I had it done professionally because of the neatness and how it was all done correctly. But I had my father show me a couple of things and took it from there. As long as I'm shown what to do, I will and can do it. 
Anyway, the bulb on my blower is blown but I believe I tested correctly and looks like I got around 16.5? volts. I set the meter to 20 ACV and that's what I came up with. I put my leads at the base of the bulb and that's what I got. I also removed the bulb and stuck the leads in the socket itself and still came up with the same thing. 
First, did I test correctly and second the bulb was a 35w. Was that the correct bulb and could I still run 2 10w. LEDs off of it.
Sorry about all the questions. Thanks again


----------



## ziggyjoe

I'm a youtuber and when I'm not sure of something that's where I go. That's where I saw your video and then wanted to put the led lights on my blower.


----------



## ziggyjoe

I'd like to thank everyone who had some input on this thread. &#55357;&#56832;


----------



## ziggyjoe

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, here's a real crude sketch I just did showing how I have things wired up.


Thanks jr. Believe it or not THIS sketch I do understand. Where did you put the fuses?


----------



## ziggyjoe

superedge88 said:


> YES!! Always test the voltage with a multimeter to make sure that everything is within safe voltage ranges!


The engine I have is a Tecumseh # LH358SA - 159628A. I believe the it has an 18w charging system on it. No battery. If that's correct why was there a 35w bulb from factory. In the unit


----------



## Normex

ziggyjoe said:


> The engine I have is a Tecumseh # LH358SA - 159628A. I believe the it has an 18w charging system on it. No battery. If that's correct why was there a 35w bulb from factory. In the unit


 
On my Ariens 1130DLE, I also have the same Tec,
Engine: Model: LH358SA Spec: 159658A
Though mine has a DC line and separate AC output as follow: 18 watts is AC being the yellow lead then 35 watts DC for the other wire.
Keep in mind Tecumseh had many different stators with different configurations so try to play it safe and Good Luck


----------



## ziggyjoe

Normex said:


> On my Ariens 1130DLE, I also have the same Tec,
> Engine: Model: LH358SA Spec: 159658A
> Though mine has a DC line and separate AC output as follow: 18 watts is AC being the yellow lead then 35 watts DC for the other wire.
> Keep in mind Tecumseh had many different stators with different configurations so try to play it safe and Good Luck


Thanks Normex, my engine only has one yellow wire coming out of it then white ground wire from frame to my factory light. So I believe it's just an 18w . My question then is why is there a 35 watt factory light on it?


----------



## Normex

ziggyjoe said:


> Thanks Normex, my engine only has one yellow wire coming out of it then white ground wire from frame to my factory light. So I believe it's just an 18w . My question then is why is there a 35 watt factory light on it?


I just think you should make doubly sure as normally the wire(s) can be buried under and near the electric starter. By your bulb wattage it normally indicates a stator capable of providing enough for the said light, if the light emitted from the 35 watts bulb seems normal then there is a good chance the stator is meant for slightly more which would be a 3.0 amp output.
I know I can only speculate at this point but if you can get all the numbers such as DOM and any other so it might bring you closer to find out the output. Good Luck


----------



## ziggyjoe

*My confusing machine*



Normex said:


> I just think you should make doubly sure as normally the wire(s) can be buried under and near the electric starter. By your bulb wattage it normally indicates a stator capable of providing enough for the said light, if the light emitted from the 35 watts bulb seems normal then there is a good chance the stator is meant for slightly more which would be a 3.0 amp output.
> I know I can only speculate at this point but if you can get all the numbers such as DOM and any other so it might bring you closer to find out the output. Good Luck


Hi Normex. Thanks for the advise. I did go check the engine and yes, all I can see without pulling things apart is the one yellow wire hooked to a plug which then turns black and then goes to the light. I have replaced the 120v starter and I know there isn't any other wires there. the 35w bulb is what's got me confused. I did find the DOM which is 05344CB0154 which I'm going to go online tomorrow to see if I can find anything. I'm also going to pull a few thing off the engine just to see if I can find anymore wires. I'm dying to jump in and put some light on my machine. I have everything else but the lights. I just want to make sure that I get the correct lights.

Thanks for all the help.. 


*My Machine
Husqvarna 10530SBE
Spec # 159628A
DOM # 05344CB0154*


----------



## ctjk

Headlight Circuit read at 19.8V 
1 LED Light rated 10-30V DC 27W
2 LED lights rated 12-24V DC 10W
so total of 3 Lights


----------



## ctjk




----------



## ziggyjoe

ctjk said:


> Headlight Circuit read at 19.8V
> 1 LED Light rated 10-30V DC 27W
> 2 LED lights rated 12-24V DC 10W
> so total of 3 Lights


Hey CTJK , Was this meant for me? If so, how did you find it?


----------



## ctjk

ziggyjoe said:


> Hey CTJK , Was this meant for me? If so, how did you find it?


Sorry, this is for myself, i got stuck with my wiring, so i posted here to ask superedge. Sorry.


----------



## superedge88

ctjk said:


> Headlight Circuit read at 19.8V
> 1 LED Light rated 10-30V DC 27W
> 2 LED lights rated 12-24V DC 10W
> so total of 3 Lights


When you tested the voltage of the headlight circuit was the original bulb still installed/lit up? Or is the 19.8v AC tested without a load on the circuit?
Your diagram looks to be correct. Something is going on here that can't be described or is installed incorrectly, backwords without you realizing it. Please don't read this as condescending, I am honestly trying to help, but someting isn't right and it's escaping us right now.
I'm grasping at straws at this point, wish I was there personally to help you out.


----------



## ctjk

superedge88 said:


> When you tested the voltage of the headlight circuit was the original bulb still installed/lit up? Or is the 19.8v AC tested without a load on the circuit?
> Your diagram looks to be correct. Something is going on here that can't be described or is installed incorrectly, backwords without you realizing it. Please don't read this as condescending, I am honestly trying to help, but someting isn't right and it's escaping us right now.
> I'm grasping at straws at this point, wish I was there personally to help you out.


19.8V AC tested without a load. i took the original bulb out already.


----------



## ctjk

superedge you think i should replace the capacitor with a 12v Regulator? this way the Rectifier won't produce more than 12v through the LED lights.


----------



## ziggyjoe

Hello everyone,
I have a question for you? all I can see without pulling things apart is one yellow wire coming from the engine hooked to a plug going to my light. I have replaced the 120v ac starter and I know there isn't any other wires there. The bulb is blown but I did check for voltage at the light plug and I come up with 16.5V. The 35w bulb that was factory installed is what's got me confused. I did find the DOM which is 05344CB0154. I'm dying to jump in and put some light on my machine. I have everything else but the lights. I just want to make sure that I get the correct lights. 
Husqvarna 10530SBE / Spec # 159628A. 
My question is if anyone can tell from the info I have to what size wattage I can use for lights and if so where did you find it. Thanks


----------



## ctjk

superedge88 said:


> When you tested the voltage of the headlight circuit was the original bulb still installed/lit up? Or is the 19.8v AC tested without a load on the circuit?
> Your diagram looks to be correct. Something is going on here that can't be described or is installed incorrectly, backwords without you realizing it. Please don't read this as condescending, I am honestly trying to help, but someting isn't right and it's escaping us right now.
> I'm grasping at straws at this point, wish I was there personally to help you out.


I just found something really weird. This time i didn't attach the LED light to the Capacitors, i used the meter instead and it read at 57V DC. No wonder why all my lights blew up instantly. Is this happen to anyone in here? i really don't understand how i am getting that high. Voltage from the headlight circuit is only 19.8V AC after connecting through the Rectifier and Capacitors it came out 57V DC.... what should i do at this point? should i buy LED lights that compatible with 9v-75V DC or should i put the 24V DC Regulator with 2amp? thanks


----------



## classiccat

ctjk said:


> superedge88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> When you tested the voltage of the headlight circuit was the original bulb still installed/lit up? Or is the 19.8v AC tested without a load on the circuit?
> Your diagram looks to be correct. Something is going on here that can't be described or is installed incorrectly, backwords without you realizing it. Please don't read this as condescending, I am honestly trying to help, but someting isn't right and it's escaping us right now.
> I'm grasping at straws at this point, wish I was there personally to help you out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just found something really weird. This time i didn't attach the LED light to the Capacitors, i used the meter instead and it read at 57V DC. No wonder why all my lights blew up instantly. Is this happen to anyone in here? i really don't understand how i am getting that high. Voltage from the headlight circuit is only 19.8V AC after connecting through the Rectifier and Capacitors it came out 57V DC.... what should i do at this point? should i buy LED lights that compatible with 9v-75V DC or should i put the 24V DC Regulator with 2amp? thanks
Click to expand...

That is a common no-load condition. If your smoothing caps are only rated for 50v, I would avoid connecting the rectifier/smoothing circuit without a load.


----------



## ctjk

classiccat said:


> That is a common no-load condition. If your smoothing caps are only rated for 50v, I would avoid connecting the rectifier/smoothing circuit without a load.


I am not sure what you meant, could you please be more specific. Thanks..


----------



## Coby7

Your drawing is good, but with that circuit your DC level with no load will equal peak rectified voltage. Your 19.8Volts AC is and average voltage so you might have a peak of 57 but your A/C meter is still going to give you the average root mean square. What you need to do is make sure your stator and circuit has a load right from the start and till the end. Do not add a switch to turn off the lights. Snowblower is "on" lights are "on"


----------



## ctjk

that make sense. I last time i blew my Lights because I wired the load while the engine was running. This time let me hook from A to Z before starting the engine. Thanks


----------



## Coby7

Put both or all three right from the beginning. Then measure voltage, if it is around 12 volts leave it, if voltage only reaches lets say 9 volts at full throttle remove the third one and measure again. Ideal voltage should be between 12 and 15 volts.


----------



## ctjk

I just ordered 2 more Lights, should get here by Thursday. right now i have a creed LED rated 10W 12v-24v DC. Can i wire one for now and add 2 more later. i live in Mass and we are getting another 5 inches of snow this Thursday so having some lights will help a lot. Thanks


----------



## superedge88

ctjk said:


> I just ordered 2 more Lights, should get here by Thursday. right now i have a creed LED rated 10W 12v-24v DC. Can i wire one for now and add 2 more later. i live in Mass and we are getting another 5 inches of snow this Thursday so having some lights will help a lot. Thanks


It may not be enough load to bring down the voltage, if it were me I would wait for the other two lights to arrive.


----------



## howie2092

I'm about ready to tackle this project for my Ariens 932105.

SuperbrightLEDs.com has some interesting work lights.

They have some OVAL ones that might be an almost-drop-in replacement for the existing Ariens headlight housing. Definitely worth a look.


----------



## superedge88

howie2092 said:


> I'm about ready to tackle this project for my Ariens 932105.
> 
> SuperbrightLEDs.com has some interesting work lights.
> 
> They have some OVAL ones that might be an almost-drop-in replacement for the existing Ariens headlight housing. Definitely worth a look.


Looks promising


----------



## ziggyjoe

Hello everyone,
Sorry to bother anyone but I have a question for you? all I can see without pulling things apart is one yellow wire coming from the engine hooked to a plug going to my light. I have replaced the 120v ac starter and I know there isn't any other wires there. The bulb is blown but I did check for voltage at the light plug and I come up with 16.5V. The 35w bulb that was factory installed is what's got me confused. I did find the DOM which is 05344CB0154. I'm dying to jump in and put some light on my machine. I have everything else but the lights. I just want to make sure that I get the correct lights. 
Husqvarna 10530SBE / Spec # 159628A. 
My question is if anyone can tell from the info I have to what size wattage I can use for lights and if so where did you find it. Thanks


----------



## Coby7

The yellow wire would be the live wire and the chassis is ground. Was it 16.5 volts DC or A/C? If you had a 35 Watt bulb this means you could easily put in two 18 Watt LED lamps or one 36 Watt . If you measured A/C volts make sure you get LED bulbs that can handle this voltage or you will need a bridge rectifier to convert the A/C to DC.


----------



## ziggyjoe

Coby7 said:


> The yellow wire would be the live wire and the chassis is ground. Was it 16.5 volts DC or A/C? If you had a 35 Watt bulb this means you could easily put in two 18 Watt LED lamps or one 36 Watt . If you measured A/C volts make sure you get LED bulbs that can handle this voltage or you will need a bridge rectifier to convert the A/C to DC.


Thanks for the Quick reply Colby. When I tested, it was without a bulb because it was blown, I was testing AC volts. So then I guess I should be able to use the size bulbs that you mentioned and yes I am going to use a bridge rectifier. I purchased 4 on ebay with heat sink compound for 9.99 I just need to purchase the capacitors. Should I use Fuses? I was thinking of using a switch but I don't know if I am or not. Once again Thank You for the info.


----------



## classiccat

Switching when using a stator (_unregulated_) is tricky there Ziggy. When there's no load (_impedence_), voltage climbs rapidly and will likely exceed the maximum voltage of your LED floods & possibly your ACtoDC conversion circuitry. 

Inline fuses are a good idea.


----------



## Normex

ziggyjoe said:


> Thanks for the Quick reply Colby. When I tested, it was without a bulb because it was blown, I was testing AC volts. So then I guess I should be able to use the size bulbs that you mentioned and yes I am going to use a bridge rectifier. I purchased 4 on ebay with heat sink compound for 9.99 I just need to purchase the capacitors. Should I use Fuses? I was thinking of using a switch but I don't know if I am or not. Once again Thank You for the info.


A 27 watt Led light available online would probably be a good choice allowing some free play for your stator and have more than enough lighting for one light. Good Luck


----------



## ctjk

finally i did it. I really appreciate everyone for your help. Let me go clean up the mess. Talk to you guys later.


----------



## classiccat

Congrats!! I think you burned out a few cones in my eyeballs with that pic! Lit up like Yankee Stadium! !


----------



## stihl066

*10530SBE LED mod*



ziggyjoe said:


> Hello everyone,
> Sorry to bother anyone but I have a question for you? all I can see without pulling things apart is one yellow wire coming from the engine hooked to a plug going to my light. I have replaced the 120v ac starter and I know there isn't any other wires there. The bulb is blown but I did check for voltage at the light plug and I come up with 16.5V. The 35w bulb that was factory installed is what's got me confused. I did find the DOM which is 05344CB0154. I'm dying to jump in and put some light on my machine. I have everything else but the lights. I just want to make sure that I get the correct lights.
> Husqvarna 10530SBE / Spec # 159628A.
> My question is if anyone can tell from the info I have to what size wattage I can use for lights and if so where did you find it. Thanks


Hi Ziggy, just did the LED mod on my 10530SBE. I used two 18 watt LED arrays. Also, built a bridge rectifier with two 2200 ufd capacitors. I have a 4 amp quick-blow fuse on the DC side. So far, two storms later and all is well. Nothing has burned out yet! (except my retinas...)


----------



## ziggyjoe

stihl066 said:


> Hi Ziggy, just did the LED mod on my 10530SBE. I used two 18 watt LED arrays. Also, built a bridge rectifier with two 2200 ufd capacitors. I have a 4 amp quick-blow fuse on the DC side. So far, two storms later and all is well. Nothing has burned out yet! (except my retinas...)


Really good to hear. I ordered 2 16w lights at 1720lm ea and can't wait to put on the blower. Storm coming Sat & Sun. Thanks for telling me where you put the fuses. Thanks for the info...


----------



## ziggyjoe

ziggyjoe said:


> Really good to hear. I ordered 2 16w lights at 1720lm ea and can't wait to put on the blower. Storm coming Sat & Sun. Thanks for telling me where you put the fuses. Thanks for the info...


Let you know how things come out....


----------



## ziggyjoe

JnC said:


> Great minds think alike , ends were zip tied on the inside and also silicone was applied, here are some pictures of the box as well, just in case if anyone else is interested. It was $8 shipped through ebay, link is below, has nice tapped fittings inside the box to mount hardware, I was able to use couple of them to mount the rectifier. Also, comes with a nice foam gasket that seals the box real good against the elements.
> 
> Bopla 02 081606 0 P316 Enclosure Indoor Outdoor Project Box Bopla 160x75x57 Mm | eBay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, credit to AKview for the idea.


Hello JnC. Great looking job. May I ask if those are plugs for your lights and if so, where did you get them?


----------



## ziggyjoe

ziggyjoe said:


> Hello JnC. Great looking job. May I ask if those are plugs for your lights and if so, where did you get them?


Also what did you use for the plug for your a/c?


----------



## Coby7

Look like the same I used. 
5 Kits Sealed Weather Proof Cable Connectors Plugs 2 PIN 2 WAY FOR CAR | eBay


----------



## ziggyjoe

Coby7 said:


> Look like the same I used.
> 5 Kits Sealed Weather Proof Cable Connectors Plugs 2 PIN 2 WAY FOR CAR | eBay


Thanks Coby7, those are exactly what I was just looking at. What size wire did you use for your hook-up?


----------



## Coby7

ziggyjoe said:


> Thanks Coby7, those are exactly what I was just looking at. What size wire did you use for your hook-up?


18 because it's what I had but you could go with 20.


----------



## ziggyjoe

Coby7 said:


> 18 because it's what I had but you could go with 20.


Thanks. Thats perfect. I have a bunch of red + black 18 left over from putting an in-dash dvd player, navi in our car.


----------



## Vengenz

Am I understanding correctly I can toss one or two of these on my 28 deluxe (with stock headlight) and need no bridge rectifier?

Edit: for some reason the links are not working but on Amazon "Lemonbest® 10w 12v Silver LED Underwater Flood Light, IP68 Waterproof Landscape Fountain Lamp, Warm White"


----------



## Jermik

*I'm new and searched the for my answer but still need help....*

I have a cub cadet 2x 26" snowblower. It has the cc 277 engine. Its stock light is the 1141 12v. 

My goal is 1 or 2 of these LEDs. 
I found a bridge rectifier already. 


Will j be able to do this?

TMS® 2 x 18W 1260LM CREE Spot Led Work Light Bar For Off-road SUV Boat 4x4 Jeep Lamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EA0ZB7I/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Pa0bwbA4B5MQW


Do I need to use a switch? Is this just a preference in case I decide to not have a light on while using he blower?

Thanks everyone!!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Jermik, welcome to the forum :white^_^arial^_^0^_

What you need to tell us is the numbers off the engine (model, serial, family). They will usually tell what if any charging system the motor has. Since you already have a headlight it has one.


----------



## Jermik

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Jermik, welcome to the forum :white^_^arial^_^0^_
> 
> What you need to tell us is the numbers off the engine (model, serial, family). They will usually tell what if any charging system the motor has. Since you already have a headlight it has one.


2011 cub cadet 526 swe. Model number off the tag: 31bh54ts710 serial number 1f081b10025

Thanks for helping.


----------



## whealerdude

Good Job! I have a question for you. I bought all I need for an install and I even bought a step down voltage regulator do you think I need it? Here is my problem. At full throttle I am getting 18 Volts with no load. My LED's are 12 Volts so I figured I would install a regulator to drop the voltage from 18 to 12. Is that a idea any good? 

Thanks!


----------



## Husqvarna_10530SBE

What's up. 

I am at the final stages of restoring my Husqvarna 10530SBE after 9 good years. She just wouldn't throw snow anymore last winter so I removed the gear housing and found that the worm gear lost three consecutive teeth and the worm gear is not available. Since I had the thing half apart I decided to strip her down and do a complete rebuild. The inside of the auger and impeller housings were pretty rusted. The engine needed a new carburetor, new belts, replaced many nuts and bolts, etc.

So I want to switch over to LED for the headlight. I saw that the new Husqvarna snow throwers use LED headlights and it looks like the same housing. I just don't have the time and or drive to build something my self. 

I just don't know if all the necessary electronics are located in the headlight housing or if the wire harness is required also. Here is a link... Genuine OEM Husqvarna Parts - Husqvarna Part Store

I'll probably order #581684201 and go from there. I assume I will just reuse the existing wiring (one ground, one power).

Any thoughts?

Thanks


----------



## Motor City

whealerdude said:


> Good Job! I have a question for you. I bought all I need for an install and I even bought a step down voltage regulator do you think I need it? Here is my problem. At full throttle I am getting 18 Volts with no load. My LED's are 12 Volts so I figured I would install a regulator to drop the voltage from 18 to 12. Is that a idea any good?
> 
> Thanks!


If you go thru this thread some others had the same situation. When they added the lights, which is a load, the voltage went down.


----------



## Normex

whealerdude said:


> Good Job! I have a question for you. I bought all I need for an install and I even bought a step down voltage regulator do you think I need it? Here is my problem. At full throttle I am getting 18 Volts with no load. My LED's are 12 Volts so I figured I would install a regulator to drop the voltage from 18 to 12. Is that a idea any good


 You did not mention your engine make. Most Leds can handle up to 50 volts but mine was reading same as you full throttle 18 v. 
but it was dirty voltage so burned my Led instantly.
Just go back one page on this thread and see what others install with success.
Good Luck


----------



## FHDconstruction

*Led light problem Help!!!*



superedge88 said:


> Only some LED lights are touchy enough to blow when receiving "dirty" DC. I had a Toro that I put led's on that didn't have a smoothing capacitor and it worked fine for months till I sold the blower.
> Should just need the capacitor for that specific model of led light and it should work fine.


Just a question on the capacitor. I purchased the leds on ebay. not sure how to match up a capacitor to the led light? 

Thanks


----------



## Richard43

*Glad to see this thread reactivated after a year*

Waiting on delivery of a new Ariens 28 Professional Hydro Series snowblower. It has a 60W (5A) AC output and I plan to disable the heated hand warmers and replace the 20 W Halogen with a 40W 4,000 Lumen LED. I've read all 80 pages of this thread and found the information very helpful. I'd welcome any new information on LED conversions that anyone would care to share since this thread has been disabled for the past year.


----------



## VikSingh

I just had a new Troy-Bilt Storm Tracker 2690 delivered and looking at the light I thought hmm this doesn't look adequate so I called up troy bilt to try to get specs on the voltage/wattage of the bulb and they have no idea. I was told if its not in the manual they don't know and I couldn't find it in the manual. I did however find a replacement part number for the bulb (925-1629). This part number shows me its a 12V bulb but nothing more than that. If someone could tell me how many watts I can safely draw I would be very grateful.

Edit: Also this model has heated grips, which I have not used yet as I have not fired up the motor to use them but ideally I'd like to keep them in working order and not use the wattage to power extra lighting. Which is something I have read other people do on the forum.

Edit #2: I was able to find out that the bulb is 12.8 volts and 1.44 amps, so the calculation makes the led replacement around 18.432 Watts. Now my next question is can I use two 10 watt lights, or will the extra 1.5 watt be too much? Also was unable to determine if this unit needs a bridge rectifier, please advise.

Edit #3: I found a set of 10 Watt 12 Volt lights on eBay, I cannot post the link on here because my post count is too low but, its item # 171891911364. Which will lead you to a listing for 2 pieces of 10 Watts each LED's that put out about 1000 Lumens in a flood beam at 6000K (Color) and are IP67 rated for dust and waterproofing. Any feedback on that?


----------



## mikerezz61

Great video, Thank you. But I'm looking for more of a tutorial on how to hook it all up. I have an Ariens 24 deluxe. I am pretty sure on connecting the 2 wires coming out of the snowblower to the bridge rectifier. I am questioning how to hook up the positive and negative wires from both headlights to the bridge rectifier?


----------



## PAfromQC

Guess i should have come here first for my projet, so here is my Honda HS724TCD led lights conversion thread if you're curious to see:


http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/96257-honda-hs724tcd-led-lights-question.html



Great thread by the way, lots of information and interesting projects, thumbs up!


----------



## MnP40c

*Ariens 28 Deluxe - Headlight Conversion*

Hi, this is my first post so please bare with me. I apologize if my question has been answered in a previous response to this post. 

I have an Ariens 28" Deluxe blower that has a stock 20watt 12v bulb installed. I tested this circuit, and it appears that is does have a 12v output. I would really like to add some nice flood lights (either a light bar, or the Cree flood lights). I checked out this forum, as well as some others, and have already purchased a bridge rectifier (KBPC5010) as well as two capacitors (2200mfd 50v).

My question is, how do I know how many watts my snowblower will support? I understand that I currently use a 20W halogen bulb (stock), but can my snowblower support a higher wattage LED light? It may sound crazy, or maybe it is just plain impossible, but I would really like to put one of those 22" curved light bars on the front of my blower. The majority of those light bars are 120watts or more....so I am assuming this can't be done. Or can it? If it can, it would be bad ass!

Ultimately, I wondering what is the highest wattage LED light bar, or pair of lights I can buy for this blower? If I bought two 28watt bulbs, would that be too much for the blower to handle? Any input, or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Winter is coming, and I want to be prepared. I am a decent DIYer, but don't know a whole lot when it comes to electrical. My ears are open, please help!!!

Thanks again!

Once completed, I will gladly add pictures, and/or tutorial to my success story. Assuming I succeed, haha.

Steve


----------



## Foreverfalcon40

I am going through this process with no luck!

I ordered 2 LED pods. I got one to work but now none do not!

I am getting 8v out of the rectifier! ?


----------



## ACAD_Cowboy

So after acquiring a 24" MTD blower and finding this thread, I did this...



















I was contemplating putting the bar up on the console but chute shadow threatened drive me crazy.

According to the model number break down this unit has a 5A/3A split alternator and has a pigtail listed for heated grips and a head lamp. I metered out the leads and got some interesting results:

Yellow 
21.5V AC
3.5A AC

75.25W AC

Red
16.5V AC
3.75A AC
AND (!?)
25V DC
3.6A DC

61.875W AC
90W DC

So I suppose this means the red lead has a half wave rectifier somewhere in there.

But anyway, I picked up two full wave rectifiers, one for each AC source and some capacitors and a switched, relayed & fused wiring harness. The bar is a 20" and is listed as 126w with a combo beam pattern. Honestly its not as wide as I'd like but for 30 bucks it sure lights up the center. I got the bar off amazon from an outfit called Nilight and if their math is decent this puppy is good for 8820lm. For a modest investment in parts I can always just chest hair the snow out of the way with my brodozer snow machine.


----------



## mannyj

*Would these work as well???*

Hi Guys,

Just got to say this is an awesome little project!

Manny


----------



## mannyj

Hi Guys,

I love this thread. I have a Husqvarna 10530SBE and I and I am seriously considering upgrading the standard halogen lamp to an LED. 

I found this lamp which appears to be pretty close to a direct replacement for the halogen unit:
repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a23b311i1558/Husqvarna-Snowblower-Headlight-Parts

But I was wondering if I could just use something like this as the AC to DC converter?
superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/battery-and-cps-compact-power-supplies/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module/1725/4134/

The reason I ask is that I have read all of the posts here and by the time I put all of the parts together myself and solder everything all up (waterproof box, rectifier, CAPS, diode, wire) I would be into it for nearly the same amount of money as just buying this already made.

What do you think?


----------



## ACAD_Cowboy

That is a tidy unit but its limited to 36w, 12v x 3A. If you are under that it looks like a slick solution.


----------



## JerryR

MnP40c said:


> Hi, this is my first post so please bare with me. I apologize if my question has been answered in a previous response to this post.
> 
> I have an Ariens 28" Deluxe blower that has a stock 20watt 12v bulb installed. I tested this circuit, and it appears that is does have a 12v output. I would really like to add some nice flood lights (either a light bar, or the Cree flood lights). I checked out this forum, as well as some others, and have already purchased a bridge rectifier (KBPC5010) as well as two capacitors (2200mfd 50v).
> 
> My question is, how do I know how many watts my snowblower will support? I understand that I currently use a 20W halogen bulb (stock), but can my snowblower support a higher wattage LED light? It may sound crazy, or maybe it is just plain impossible, but I would really like to put one of those 22" curved light bars on the front of my blower. The majority of those light bars are 120watts or more....so I am assuming this can't be done. Or can it? If it can, it would be bad ass!
> 
> Ultimately, I wondering what is the highest wattage LED light bar, or pair of lights I can buy for this blower? If I bought two 28watt bulbs, would that be too much for the blower to handle? Any input, or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Winter is coming, and I want to be prepared. I am a decent DIYer, but don't know a whole lot when it comes to electrical. My ears are open, please help!!!
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Once completed, I will gladly add pictures, and/or tutorial to my success story. Assuming I succeed, haha.
> 
> Steve



I have the deluxe 24" (which I believe is the same size engine as yours) according to Ariens that engine can support a 60W total load.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## 80sDweeb

I just want to point out something that's been mentioned before in this thread. Just because an eBay seller says lights are "27W" or "18W", doesn't mean that's what they actually draw. These are almost always clone lights, and the wattage they quote is for the actual "Cree" brand LED elements, whereas the clone LED elements are in all likelihood going to draw less than that. How much less? I can't tell you that, but just be aware that there's a fudge factor here, so if you think you're pushing the wattage, you're probably not.

I haven't installed my LEDs yet, but I've got most of the parts I need. Really appreciate this thread for the idea and the help!

Scott in Penfield NY


----------



## Husqvarna_10530SBE

ziggyjoe said:


> Hello everyone,
> Sorry to bother anyone but I have a question for you? all I can see without pulling things apart is one yellow wire coming from the engine hooked to a plug going to my light. I have replaced the 120v ac starter and I know there isn't any other wires there. The bulb is blown but I did check for voltage at the light plug and I come up with 16.5V. The 35w bulb that was factory installed is what's got me confused. I did find the DOM which is 05344CB0154. I'm dying to jump in and put some light on my machine. I have everything else but the lights. I just want to make sure that I get the correct lights.
> Husqvarna 10530SBE / Spec # 159628A.
> My question is if anyone can tell from the info I have to what size wattage I can use for lights and if so where did you find it. Thanks


I also have a Husqvarna 10530SBE and I just replaced the original engine (LH358SA-159628A) with a new Tecumseh HMSK100-159307U. I was curious as to what that yellow wire connects to (inside the engine)? I almost thought the new engine didn't come with that wire to allow powering accessories, but the wire was just hiding (thankfully). I dreaded the thought of taking the new engine apart just to add a single wire to power the light.


----------



## Andybmac

Not sure if it's been answered or not, can my newer model Ariens deluxe 28 support a 27 watt led light wired direct from the stock wiring? Without a bridge rectifier or any other mod??
Thanks for the advice
Andy


----------



## hfjeff

*Another successful LED install*

Finished up the LED upgrade on my Toro 1128 a few weeks ago and finally got to put it to the test tonight. Works great and much better than the factory headlight. Wasn't sure if the dual 10w's would be enough or if I should have went with the 18w, but for now I am happy. Easy enough and cheap enough to change out if I need more LUMENS :yahoo:

[URL="[/URL]

[URL="[/URL]


----------



## MnP40c

*Ariens Deluxe 28 Snowblower - 18W Cree LED Headlight Conversion*

Here is a quick tutorial I put on youtube that explains how I added 18W Cree LED Headlights to my Ariens 28 Deluxe snowblower. Check out the video if you'd like. Hopefully it will help some of you out there.





This video explains how I added LED lights to my Ariens 28 Deluxe Snowblower. I was not able to add the pictures I wanted at the end of this video, but if you read the rest of this summary, it may help you out. I added some pictures to this forum post. You can see at the end of the forum some pictures of the snowblower being used at night. 

Please note that the bridge rectifier I used has the model number KBPC5010, which can be found on EBAY. I also purchased two capacitors on EBAY rated 2200mfd 50V. The headlights are Cree 18watt LEDs (18W each) also purchased on EBAY. I purchased the wire connectors, heat shrink, wire, wire loom, and switch from O'Reilly Auto Parts. To complete this install, take the yellow wire that comes from the engine (stock halogen bulb) and connect it to a 5AMP inline fuse, then connect the fuse to the AC+ connector on the bridge rectifier. 

The AC- on the bridge rectifier needs to be grounded to the snowblower (this can be grounded to any part of the frame or control housing). * NOTE:For some reason grounding this connection worked fine for me. You may want/need to connect the other AC output from your stator to the AC- on the bridge rectifier instead of grounding the connection (the black wire). With my setup, I did not connect the black wire from the stator (engine) to anything, and only used the yellow wire which connected to the AC+ on the rectifier. My lights work just fine in this scenario. However I am NOT an electical engineer, so this is based only on experience.*

*NEXT,* run wires between the DC+/- OUT and the switch for your headlights. Place the two capacitors listed above between the DC OUT from your bridge rectifier, and the switch for your headlights. From the switch, run a positive and negative wire to your LED Headlights. One wire will connect to the Accessory connector on the switch, and the other to the ground connector. Soldering the connections is highly recommended, and using heat shrink will also help in securing your connections. In this case, I mounted my LED lights above the auger on my snowblower. This worked for my Ariens 28 Deluxe! If you have a different snowblower, you may require a slightly different setup. However, the process for installing aftermarket LED headlights will be very similar to this tutorial.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

Looks great! I was considering doing the same thing and mounting them on the front like you did. Yours is the first i have seen that way.
Thanks for the video


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

MnP40c, looks awesome!!!! I'm upgrading my stator to a 10 amp instead of 5 amp on my Premium series Ariens. I got two of these monsters in addition to the converted OEM headlight to LED, and hand warmers!

MWL-30:Â*Square 1,200 Lumen 6 LED Work Light


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

Hi guys,
I'm looking for some advice. I have a nice 6 led rectangular light. I'm trying to decide where the best place to mount one light is. Console in the middle? One side or the other of the handlebars? The auger housing?
Thoughts..................

Thanks in advance


----------



## nwcove

if behind the chute.....keep it on the right side. if ahead of the chute .....well it wont matter.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

HI all,

I am planning my LED hookup to my new Ariens Deluxe 30 and I'm wondering where the 2 capacitors go. I can see one from DC + to DC - but where does the other one go? The thread is so long, its hard to find the answer in it.

Also does anyone have a schematic drawn up of this task. I speak schematic better than words.

Thanks in advance

After posting i found a schematic and it seems that the 2 caps suggested here should both go from DC+ t0 DC-...........correct?
The schematic shows one but I'm assuming 2 are suggested here to add more capacitance.....correct?


----------



## hfjeff

Toooldforshoveling said:


> HI all,
> 
> I am planning my LED hookup to my new Ariens Deluxe 30 and I'm wondering where the 2 capacitors go. I can see one from DC + to DC - but where does the other one go? The thread is so long, its hard to find the answer in it.
> 
> Also does anyone have a schematic drawn up of this task. I speak schematic better than words.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> After posting i found a schematic and it seems that the 2 caps suggested here should both go from DC+ t0 DC-...........correct?
> The schematic shows one but I'm assuming 2 are suggested here to add more capacitance.....correct?


Yes, they both go in the same spot next to each other in parallel. So the schematic shows 1 but use 2. The leads on the capacitor are marked + and -. Make sure you get the polarity correct.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

Thanks hfjeff........
So last night I got under my blower and drew a wiring diagram of what exists there now. This includes the halogen light, the hand grip heaters and the hand grip switch.
I then added my circuit which includes the rectifier, caps, on/off switch, led light and fuse.
I would really appreciate if someone here could just take a look at the attached and check that my wiring plan looks good.

Thank you in advance, Jim


----------



## JerryR

Toooldforshoveling said:


> Thanks hfjeff........
> So last night I got under my blower and drew a wiring diagram of what exists there now. This includes the halogen light, the hand grip heaters and the hand grip switch.
> I then added my circuit which includes the rectifier, caps, on/off switch, led light and fuse.
> I would really appreciate if someone here could just take a look at the attached and check that my wiring plan looks good.
> 
> Thank you in advance, Jim


Why did you Chassis ground one side of the AC input to the bridge rect. ? (I have the 24' deluxe(921045) and it too comes out with 2 wires to power the light and grip warmers, but neither Red nor Black wires are at chassis ground.-Is yours actually grounded?
Did you power up the system the way it's drawn? did it work?
HTH
JerryR


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

JerryR said:


> Why did you Chassis ground one side of the AC input to the bridge rect. ? (I have the 24' deluxe(921045) and it too comes out with 2 wires to power the light and grip warmers, but neither Red nor Black wires are at chassis ground.-Is yours actually grounded?
> Did you power up the system the way it's drawn? did it work?
> HTH
> JerryR


Hi Jerry,
Thankfully you picked up on my one concern. When skimming thru this thread, I kept seeing that you had to chassis ground the other AC input. I assumed it is because the black AC input wire is chassis grounded but maybe its not. I did plan on ohm-ing that wire out tonight and if it is not chassis gnd then I will just run the black wire to it.
I haven't done anything yet, I'm still planning it out. I'm curious why the thread mentions chassis gnd for the other AC wire though.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

This is from the very first thread by superedge88:
"By connecting the positive and negative from your LED light(s) to the DC output of your bridge rectifier, and then connecting your single headlight circuit wire to your one of the AC inputs of the bridge rectifier (it doesn't matter which AC input) and then attaching a wire from the metal of your snowblower to the other AC input you will have light!"

This is from page 82 by MnP40c:
"To complete this install, take the yellow wire that comes from the engine (stock halogen bulb) and connect it to a 5AMP inline fuse, then connect the fuse to the AC+ connector on the bridge rectifier. The AC- on the bridge rectifier needs to be grounded to the snowblower (this can be grounded to any part of the frame or control housing)."

Why chassis ground guys? Why not bring it back to the other AC input wire? Is it chassis gnd on some machines and not others?

Thanks


----------



## JerryR

Toooldforshoveling said:


> This is from the very first thread by superedge88:
> "By connecting the positive and negative from your LED light(s) to the DC output of your bridge rectifier, and then connecting your single headlight circuit wire to your one of the AC inputs of the bridge rectifier (it doesn't matter which AC input) and then attaching a wire from the metal of your snowblower to the other AC input you will have light!"
> 
> This is from page 82 by MnP40c:
> "To complete this install, take the yellow wire that comes from the engine (stock halogen bulb) and connect it to a 5AMP inline fuse, then connect the fuse to the AC+ connector on the bridge rectifier. The AC- on the bridge rectifier needs to be grounded to the snowblower (this can be grounded to any part of the frame or control housing)."
> 
> Why chassis ground guys? Why not bring it back to the other AC input wire? Is it chassis gnd on some machines and not others?
> Thanks


I think they are talking about older machines that had only one wire(yellow or red) come out, and used chassis ground to complete the circuit.
If I were to add lights I would tap into the 2 wires coming from the engine. 
If you were to ground the bridge the way you drew it, I don't think it will work.
btw I assume it's a typo-one of the diodes on the left side of the bridge is drawn backwards.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

JerryR said:


> I think they are talking about older machines that had only one wire(yellow or red) come out, and used chassis ground to complete the circuit.
> If I were to add lights I would tap into the 2 wires coming from the engine.
> If you were to ground the bridge the way you drew it, I don't think it will work.
> btw I assume it's a typo-one of the diodes on the left side of the bridge is drawn backwards.
> HTH
> JerryR


 I believe you are correct on all accounts Jerry. I just verified that the AC wire is not grounded to chassis and that it is putting out 15V.
I think I'm ready to start installing. Thanks for all your help and flipping that one diode makes the bridge make sense now lol
Thanks again


----------



## Motor City

Also, shouldn't he have the fuse on the (Hot) yellow wire? I put mine on that wire, before my switch.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

Motor City said:


> Also, shouldn't he have the fuse on the (Hot) yellow wire? I put mine on that wire, before my switch.


Hi Motor City,
I did change that as well. I guess you can put it on either side but ground returns can be funny if there was a short so the hot is recommended.
Thanks


----------



## MnP40c

JerryR said:


> I think they are talking about older machines that had only one wire(yellow or red) come out, and used chassis ground to complete the circuit.
> If I were to add lights I would tap into the 2 wires coming from the engine.
> If you were to ground the bridge the way you drew it, I don't think it will work.
> btw I assume it's a typo-one of the diodes on the left side of the bridge is drawn backwards.
> HTH
> JerryR



Now I am wondering if I wired my lights wrong (even though they seem to be working fine). I chassis grounded the AC- from the rectifier only because I thought that was what Superedge 88 had recommended. Out of the two wires coming from the stator (the yellow and black wires), I used only the yellow one (which ran to the AC+ on the rectifier). I left the black wire not connected to anything. Although I guess I could have (or should have) run that black wire to the AC- on the rectifier? Do you think I should fix this, or leave it as is?


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

MnP40c said:


> Now I am wondering if I wired my lights wrong (even though they seem to be working fine). I chassis grounded the AC- from the rectifier only because I thought that was what Superedge 88 had recommended. Out of the two wires coming from the stator (the yellow and black wires), I used only the yellow one (which ran to the AC+ on the rectifier). I left the black wire not connected to anything. Although I guess I could have (or should have) run that black wire to the AC- on the rectifier? Do you think I should fix this, or leave it as is?


I would measure the voltage out of the diode bridge. Maybe you are using it like a half bridge but still somehow you have to complete the circuit. Could it be happening within the light? If so, the lights ground would have to be tied to chassis.
Keep us posted please, I'd like to understand how this could have worked for you.
Thanks


----------



## JerryR

I can't explain why it works and I'm surprised that it even work, unless on your machine the black wire is grounded to the chassis at some point.
I would check to see if the black wire is grounded, and if it's not grounded, I would tap the 2 wires coming out of the engine.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## MnP40c

Toooldforshoveling said:


> I would measure the voltage out of the diode bridge. Maybe you are using it like a half bridge but still somehow you have to complete the circuit. Could it be happening within the light? If so, the lights ground would have to be tied to chassis.
> Keep us posted please, I'd like to understand how this could have worked for you.
> Thanks


It is strange, I may just go ahead and connect the black wire to the AC- on the rectifier, and remove the chassis ground I had in place to see what happens. I have not been out to check the snowblower today, but I remember checking the voltage of the wires between the headlight switch I installed and the LED lights. The voltage ranged from about 9V at low throttle, to 16V at high throttle. The lights do flicker a little bit at low throttle (which I figured is due to the low voltage). When at full throttle, there is no flickering whatsoever. Before I put the rectifier in, I believe the AC voltage had about the same range 9V to 16V.

The rectifier is secure to the chassis of the snowblower using a nut and bolt, that is if the rectifier has its own ground? The only other thing grounded to the chassis came from the AC- on the rectifer.



JerryR said:


> I can't explain why it works and I'm surprised that it even work, unless on your machine the black wire is grounded to the chassis at some point.
> I would check to see if the black wire is grounded, and if it's not grounded, I would tap the 2 wires coming out of the engine.
> HTH
> JerryR


It does not appear that the black wire is grounded (it just ran from the engine direct to the stock bulb, and is currently hanging loose). I think I will try removing the ground I made between AC- and the chassis, and connect the black wire to the AC- on the rectifier like it was supposed to be. We'll see what happens.

Sorry guys, I'm not the best at electrical, still learning here I'd like to make sure my setup is correct, and understand what I did, or didn't do correctly.


----------



## MnP40c

MnP40c said:


> It is strange, I may just go ahead and connect the black wire to the AC- on the rectifier, and remove the chassis ground I had in place to see what happens. I have not been out to check the snowblower today, but I remember checking the voltage of the wires between the headlight switch I installed and the LED lights. The voltage ranged from about 9V at low throttle, to 16V at high throttle. The lights do flicker a little bit at low throttle (which I figured is due to the low voltage). When at full throttle, there is no flickering whatsoever. Before I put the rectifier in, I believe the AC voltage had about the same range 9V to 16V.
> 
> The rectifier is secure to the chassis of the snowblower using a nut and bolt, that is if the rectifier has its own ground? The only other thing grounded to the chassis came from the AC- on the rectifer.
> 
> 
> 
> It does not appear that the black wire is grounded (it just ran from the engine direct to the stock bulb, and is currently hanging loose). I think I will try removing the ground I made between AC- and the chassis, and connect the black wire to the AC- on the rectifier like it was supposed to be. We'll see what happens.
> 
> Sorry guys, I'm not the best at electrical, still learning here I'd like to make sure my setup is correct, and understand what I did, or didn't do correctly.


Hey Guys, just a quick update. So I tried connecting the black wire running from engine to the AC- on the bridge rectifier, and the LED lights run just the same as they did when the AC- on the bridge rectifier was grounded. So despite the fact that the black wire from the engine isn't being used, it seem that grounding the AC- from the bridge rectifier to the chassis has the same outcome. Again, I am not sure if the way I have things setup is "technically" right, but it seems to be working for me. Any more thoughts or suggestions is much appreciated


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

MnP40c said:


> Hey Guys, just a quick update. So I tried connecting the black wire running from engine to the AC- on the bridge rectifier, and the LED lights run just the same as they did when the AC- on the bridge rectifier was grounded. So despite the fact that the black wire from the engine isn't being used, it seem that grounding the AC- from the bridge rectifier to the chassis has the same outcome. Again, I am not sure if the way I have things setup is "technically" right, but it seems to be working for me. Any more thoughts or suggestions is much appreciated


Yeah there is something strange about this. I work in the electronics field in engineering and I ran it by my boss and he feels that unless that black wire from the stator is chassis grounded, it should not work by grounding the rectifier AC- to chassis.
Personally I think there is a phenomenon or missing piece of information that would explain why it can work both ways. The stator information is an unknown other than the output and I find it somehow relevant that in older machines only one wire came out. Maybe the connection to chassis is thru the stator somehow when its running and cannot be ohmed out. I don't know but my curiousity is peaked right now lol.


----------



## JerryR

Stab in the dark-maybe it gets grounded while the engine is running???(centrifugal switch?)
Or it's going to remain a mystery.
JerryR


----------



## JnC

So my YS624W does have a lighting coil and I need to figure out if it can handle a 27W LED spot light. I have done some research online and have been getting different answers, some say since the factory bulb is 18W the max output from the coil is 18W and there have been some places where people suggest its 21~23 watts. 

How do I check it with a multimeter as to what the coil is producing at max RPM.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

JnC said:


> So my YS624W does have a lighting coil and I need to figure out if it can handle a 27W LED spot light. I have done some research online and have been getting different answers, some say since the factory bulb is 18W the max output from the coil is 18W and there have been some places where people suggest its 21~23 watts.
> 
> How do I check it with a multimeter as to what the coil is producing at max RPM.


I believe that if you can measure the voltage at full RPM with the 18W factory load in place and then do the same with the 27W load in place, that if the voltage didn't drop off then that shows that you have not reached max full load current of the coil.


----------



## vapeden

I'm about to purchase a new Ariens Compact 24" blower and I was wondering if you can find an led bulb that will fit in the OEM housing? I read somewhere that they found an led with the same connector harness but the bulb itself didn't fit in the housing tabs. If I can find a bulb that works I can do the wiring to keep it from flickering. Thanks.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

vapeden said:


> I'm about to purchase a new Ariens Compact 24" blower and I was wondering if you can find an led bulb that will fit in the OEM housing? I read somewhere that they found an led with the same connector harness but the bulb itself didn't fit in the housing tabs. If I can find a bulb that works I can do the wiring to keep it from flickering. Thanks.


LED's require current regulation or they will just burn out within seconds. LED lightheads that you buy have it built in. Some bulbs have a resistor in line for this purpose but not all so I would make sure of that.


----------



## vapeden

Toooldforshoveling said:


> LED's require current regulation or they will just burn out within seconds. LED lightheads that you buy have it built in. Some bulbs have a resistor in line for this purpose but not all so I would make sure of that.



Yes I know the ones for my car have the regulator built into the harness. I just don't know what a comparable bulb would be. Like H11, H7, etc..


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

With a little help from the techs at work, I came up with this setup for my electronics for my new LED light. They potted it for me and I made it all plug and play. I ended up removing the factory bulb/connector and cutting off the bulb so that I can use the connector. I'm psyched to get this in tonight!


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

I thought I'd post my finished schematic and assembly diagram for those who might be attempting a a new Ariens Deluxe 30 like me.
Regards


----------



## 98234

Followed in your snow tracks MnP40c
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and all that...
Conversion on my Troy-Bilt was easier overall I think, already had holes for switch etc, took about 2 hours...
And my counterweight I had put mounting holes in already...so it went quick.
Happy with the result.
Thank you


----------



## MnP40c

Paul.E.Wogg said:


> Followed in your snow tracks MnP40c
> Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and all that...
> Conversion on my Troy-Bilt was easier overall I think, already had holes for switch etc, took about 2 hours...
> And my counterweight I had put mounting holes in already...so it went quick.
> Happy with the result.
> Thank you


Looks good Paul! Glad it worked out for you


----------



## 98234

*One mod I may make...*



MnP40c said:


> Looks good Paul! Glad it worked out for you


Drifts here can be high, so I may get some 1 inch steel round bar and tap each end for 1/4" thread...and elevate 12 inches, we shall see how it goes at this level first though.

Your post really helped. I was in a hurry...so I paid dearly for the bridge and caps...if not in a rush....probably 40$ overall..with lots left over to help my friends to Convert!
Thanks again!
Paul


----------



## MnP40c

Toooldforshoveling said:


> With a little help from the techs at work, I came up with this setup for my electronics for my new LED light. They potted it for me and I made it all plug and play. I ended up removing the factory bulb/connector and cutting off the bulb so that I can use the connector. I'm psyched to get this in tonight!


Super cool, you may end up having the most profesional looking upgrade out there. The fuse and capacitor housing looks great! I hope you create a video once you are done and share it with us. I also updated my original post with some more pics to go along with my video in case anyone is interested.


----------



## aldfam4

*upgrading from halogen bult to LED bulb(s)*

Hello Snowblower forum,


1st time here with a question concerning my 9 H.P. Craftsman Snow Thrower 28"
I have a 12 volt halogen bulb on it part #725-04213 which has been replaced with part #925-0963.
I would like to replace it with a LED light or lights, especially like some of the Cree LED lights used by some forum members here. I do not know my limitations as to what type Cree light or lights I could use on my Craftsman 28" model #247.88999. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Live in the Buffalo, New York area where we get some hefty lake effect snow.
Thanks,
aldfam4


----------



## rodoloman

Here is my setup. Totally independent of the blower wiring its self. I use the same lights on my off road Jeep. Most offroad LEDs go up to 20 volts. This allowed me to use a Makita and 18 volt battery and base with a marine switch. 

I guess I'll show it when I'm allowed to under your post laws.


----------



## bruker

Lots of info in the 850 post in this thread and I'll admit I didn't read everyone of them. Is there a good schematic or wiring diagram for a one wire system that includes the rectifier and capacitor(s)?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

This would be the diagram.


----------



## Newt

I find the Led lights are very hard on the eyes. It just seems way to bright.


----------



## JD in NJ

*Easy mode with a new Ariens*

I did it the easy way for my new Ariens Deluxe 30. After looking a the stock light and perusing various headlight options I realized that it was really just a fog light halogen. So I bought a package of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJ9MZH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used only one of them, replacing the stock headlight bulb. It was basically a perfect fit. The only issue I had was that while I was able to remove the old headlight with the wire attached by twisting it clockwise, the new one had to be installed without the wire as it was seriously in the way... The mounting tabs were reversed and it was tightened by twisting clockwise, after which I could hook up the electrics again. If it had been above freezing this would have been quite easy, as it was my fingers went numb in the process.

I've run it for about five minutes while I spread some salt and no, it didn't burn out during that time. If I run into trouble I'll think about what to do but for now I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

Yes but that looks like an led that is meant to run off of DC no?


----------



## JD in NJ

Toooldforshoveling said:


> Yes but that looks like an led that is meant to run off of DC no?


I was pretty sure I read that this blower puts DC to the light circuit, but the wiring diagram I just checked does tell a different story. In any case the proof is in the pudding: It works without any apparent issues. If that doesn't last over time I'll look into adding some protection circuitry and consider it a lesson learned.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

It has a stator on the motor that puts out AC to the light and the hand grips. I believe the difference you would see would be a flickering but I'm not sure


----------



## JD in NJ

I saw no evidence of flickering, but I can check it at idle RPM next time I pull the machine out. The bulb might have a rectifier built into it, too, I know that at least some of them do these days. I'll grab some video of it next time around.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

JD in NJ said:


> I saw no evidence of flickering, but I can check it at idle RPM next time I pull the machine out. The bulb might have a rectifier built into it, too, I know that at least some of them do these days. I'll grab some video of it next time around.


I've seen them with resistors built in to limit DC current but not regulators. I'm curious to learn what you find out. Thanks


----------



## JD in NJ

Toooldforshoveling said:


> I've seen them with resistors built in to limit DC current but not regulators. I'm curious to learn what you find out. Thanks


We had a snowfall today that put down a few inches, and it didn't stop until after dark. What better opportunity to test out the new light?

It. is. flawless. My blower has a dial for idle/run speed, and so I was able to check over a decent RPM range. I could not see any real difference between how this LED operates and how a standard bulb does, even the way it dims and goes out as engine speed decreases after shutting off. I cleared my driveway (not too terribly large), my walkway, about 300' of sidewalk and three EOD piles, and I even cleaned up what the plows did along the front of my house. Then for good measure I made yet another set of passes over my own sidewalk (I'm on the corner so it's a fair amount) and driveway dropping ice melt. I wasn't feeling completely exhausted yet so I also cleared a nice path on my lawn and created a turnaround zone to park the blower.

There were no issues with the light at all. No burnout, no flickering, no weird behavior, just bright white light that helped me to find my way around. I am thoroughly pleased with the performance of this product.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

JD in NJ said:


> We had a snowfall today that put down a few inches, and it didn't stop until after dark. What better opportunity to test out the new light?
> 
> It. is. flawless. My blower has a dial for idle/run speed, and so I was able to check over a decent RPM range. I could not see any real difference between how this LED operates and how a standard bulb does, even the way it dims and goes out as engine speed decreases after shutting off. I cleared my driveway (not too terribly large), my walkway, about 300' of sidewalk and three EOD piles, and I even cleaned up what the plows did along the front of my house. Then for good measure I made yet another set of passes over my own sidewalk (I'm on the corner so it's a fair amount) and driveway dropping ice melt. I wasn't feeling completely exhausted yet so I also cleared a nice path on my lawn and created a turnaround zone to park the blower.
> 
> There were no issues with the light at all. No burnout, no flickering, no weird behavior, just bright white light that helped me to find my way around. I am thoroughly pleased with the performance of this product.


That's great news! We had the same storm and it was my first nighttime cleanup with my new light. Other than the shadow the snowblower cast, it was great and I can't imagine not having one.
I talked to a couple of electrical engineers at work and not knowing what frequency the motor stator puts out, they feel that the led's are acting like a rectifier and the resulting frequency is such that the human eye cannot see the difference. All in all they said it should be fine, just as you noticed. Great find!


----------



## IHATESNOW

Newb here with a newb question - I am also doing a light addition to my blower and using LED lights. 


My question is regarding the capacitors - how do I wire them? The capacitors have two bare wires. Would you solder them to wiring?


thanks


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to SBF Ihatesnow

The capacitors are to smooth out the flow of electricity and prevent the LED from flickering. The leads should have a marking. You want to connect them to the positive wire and ground after the rectifier.

See - - > https://www.google.com/search?q=12+...AUIBygC#tbm=isch&q=positive+side+of+capacitor


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

IHATESNOW said:


> Newb here with a newb question - I am also doing a light addition to my blower and using LED lights.
> 
> 
> My question is regarding the capacitors - how do I wire them? The capacitors have two bare wires. Would you solder them to wiring?
> 
> 
> thanks


The guys at work here soldered the 2 positives of the caps together and also the 2 negatives together. Then they soldered wires to the leads, added shrink tubing over the connection and crimped a spade clip to the wire ends. Those clips fit over the diode bridge spades. I hope that helps


----------



## swcheese

Thanks for all the info everyone! My new 2016 Ariens Deluxe 30 EFI is now sporting a pair of Cree 18w LED's mounted to the outside of the handlebars and the only flicker I get is when the machine is idled down and the generator isn't putting out enough electricity.


----------



## akman1

I have a standard 2006 Sears Craftsman 26" blower with electric start. It has no lights but includes the wire lead for a light and hand warmers. A mechanic told me the output is DC and that most LEDs will already have rectifier circuits built in.


To confirm this I bought 2 Blazer LED BAJA TOUGH LEDs from Auto Zone and installed them on the front of my blower. I wired them directly to the "Headlight" lead following the included instructions and they work just fine as-is with no additional wiring, rectifiers or capacitors. The lights came with all needed wiring and lighted switch. All I added was a red 3/8" wire loom and zip ties to hold it in place.


The lights are only 283 lumens, bare minimum for me. For a few extra $$ a better choice would be a flood style light bar with 750+ lumens.


----------



## JD in NJ

akman1 said:


> I have a standard 2006 Sears Craftsman 26" blower with electric start. It has no lights but includes the wire lead for a light and hand warmers. A mechanic told me the output is DC and that most LEDs will already have rectifier circuits built in.
> 
> 
> To confirm this I bought 2 Blazer LED BAJA TOUGH LEDs from Auto Zone and installed them on the front of my blower. I wired them directly to the "Headlight" lead following the included instructions and they work just fine as-is with no additional wiring, rectifiers or capacitors. The lights came with all needed wiring and lighted switch. All I added was a red 3/8" wire loom and zip ties to hold it in place.
> 
> 
> The lights are only 283 lumens, bare minimum for me. For a few extra $$ a better choice would be a flood style light bar with 750+ lumens.


That is basically the same experience I wrote about for my Ariens Deluxe 30. It was a quick job to simply replace the stock headlight with an LED fog light bulb and be done with it. LED lights have come a long way since this thread was started.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

akman1 said:


> I have a standard 2006 Sears Craftsman 26" blower with electric start. It has no lights but includes the wire lead for a light and hand warmers. A mechanic told me the output is DC and that most LEDs will already have rectifier circuits built in.
> 
> 
> To confirm this I bought 2 Blazer LED BAJA TOUGH LEDs from Auto Zone and installed them on the front of my blower. I wired them directly to the "Headlight" lead following the included instructions and they work just fine as-is with no additional wiring, rectifiers or capacitors. The lights came with all needed wiring and lighted switch. All I added was a red 3/8" wire loom and zip ties to hold it in place.
> 
> 
> The lights are only 283 lumens, bare minimum for me. For a few extra $$ a better choice would be a flood style light bar with 750+ lumens.


I actually work in design engineering at a company that creates led products exclusively. We design them to be either AC or DC. We can design them to rectify 120vAC to 12VDC but that is not common and I don't think is what we are noticing here because led products don't typically come with a rectifier circuit. What we are noticing, I believe, is that the LEDs themselves, which are really diodes, are semi rectifying the 12VAC signal applied to them. Any flicker or the likes is just not noticed by the human eye.
It doesn't seem to matter in the case of snowblower wiring where 12VAC is the source coming from the motor simply because of the frequency it is coming at and the inability for the human eye to detect at those frequencies but I'm pretty sure that what we are witnessing here is not that the led's you bought have rectifier circuits built in.
On a side note, what most led's products and some led light bulbs do come with is a resistor built in to limit current as they are current driven and current must be limited or they would burn out in the blink of an eye.


----------



## akman1

Update...


@Tooold, You may be right as I was only repeating what the mechanic told me. I've been told several different things - and then the lights quit working the first time they were used. Now I get to figure out why and if they can be saved.


----------



## nastorino

JD in NJ said:


> That is basically the same experience I wrote about for my Ariens Deluxe 30. It was a quick job to simply replace the stock headlight with an LED fog light bulb and be done with it. LED lights have come a long way since this thread was started.


JD how is that LED bulb that you shoved in the housing holding up?



swcheese said:


> Thanks for all the info everyone! My new 2016 Ariens Deluxe 30 EFI is now sporting a pair of Cree 18w LED's mounted to the outside of the handlebars and the only flicker I get is when the machine is idled down and the generator isn't putting out enough electricity.


swcheese, any pictures of your setup or the wiring you did to get it to work? I've got a 24" EFI myself so I'm looking to you for this one 



Toooldforshoveling said:


> The guys at work here soldered the 2 positives of the caps together and also the 2 negatives together. Then they soldered wires to the leads, added shrink tubing over the connection and crimped a spade clip to the wire ends. Those clips fit over the diode bridge spades. I hope that helps


Tooold any pics of that harness they made you?


----------



## JD in NJ

nastorino said:


> JD how is that LED bulb that you shoved in the housing holding up?


So far so good, but I have still only had to use the machine during one storm in this disappointing winter. Basically I have nothing to report at all. I was walking around outside in a tee-shirt for part of the day today, and we are expecting several inches of rain tomorrow.


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

nastorino said:


> JD how is that LED bulb that you shoved in the housing holding up?
> 
> 
> 
> swcheese, any pictures of your setup or the wiring you did to get it to work? I've got a 24" EFI myself so I'm looking to you for this one
> 
> 
> 
> Tooold any pics of that harness they made you?


 Sorry but I had to do the harnessing on my own. It was all over the place so there just was no real clean way to do it IMO. It's all hidden though


----------



## Toooldforshoveling

akman1 said:


> Update...
> 
> 
> @Tooold, You may be right as I was only repeating what the mechanic told me. I've been told several different things - and then the lights quit working the first time they were used. Now I get to figure out why and if they can be saved.


You might want to check the incoming voltage. I find the input AC to be more than 12V. It's more like 16V and some 12V leds cannot handle that much overvoltage for a long period of time. Good luck!


----------



## tarring

JD hows that light performing any new snow to keep the testing going?


----------



## Nubian

Hello all upgraded my D/A 8-28 to 9-28 (ohv). It has a 18 watt alternator. What is the brightest led if can safely handle?


----------



## tarring

I've been reading on light mods for my Ariens the only thing thats stopping me rite now is one question? I read in another forum that the newer LCT engine have a Voltage limiter ( black power wire ) and it cuts the power to the key ( very low limit ) if so is there a way around it if not ( eg ginev on forum was a 27 watt LED and wouldn't start ) i was going 2 10w and LED replacement of original.( Will still try ) But i dont remember reading any thing about this in this thread.( and yes it was a long but educating read )


----------



## JerryR

tarring said:


> I've been reading on light mods for my Ariens the only thing thats stopping me rite now is one question? I read in another forum that the newer LCT engine have a Voltage limiter ( black power wire ) and it cuts the power to the key ( very low limit ) if so is there a way around it if not ( eg ginev on forum was a 27 watt LED and wouldn't start ) i was going 2 10w and LED replacement of original.( Will still try ) But i dont remember reading any thing about this in this thread.( and yes it was a long but educating read )


Voltage limiter wire is Very intriguing-might answer some questions I had.
Do you remember what forum you read that in?
Thanks
JerryR


----------



## tarring

No sorry was doing a google search for 921030, but if it don't start and the light flashes when you pull the cord that would be the symptom.


----------



## Normex

I might be way off but any chance the SB is EFI which would explain the low voltage ?

Good Luck

Norm


----------



## RIT333

Normex said:


> I might be way off but any chance the SB is EFI which would explain the low voltage ?
> 
> Good Luck
> 
> Norm


I wouldn't think there would be any correlation.


----------



## JerryR

JerryR said:


> Voltage limiter wire is Very intriguing-might answer some questions I had.
> Do you remember what forum you read that in?
> Thanks
> JerryR


Tarring.
Got your PM -thank you.
I read that post/thread and I think the guy was talking about a remote shut off rather than a voltage limiter.
If you have one of the recent Ariens SB than you probably have an AX engine made by LCT.
I have the 24" Dlx with the AX254cc engine that have a black and yellow wires used for illumination and the optional grip warmers for a total of 60W.
I measured at idle, about 10-11v AC, and at full RPM about 15-16v AC.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## JerryR

JerryR said:


> Voltage limiter wire is Very intriguing-might answer some questions I had.
> Do you remember what forum you read that in?
> Thanks
> JerryR


Tarring.
Got your PM- Thank you.
I read the post/thread, and I think the guy was talking about a remote shut off, rather than a voltage limiter.
If you have a recent Ariens SB you may have an AX engine made by LCT (I don't know when Ariens started using LCT engines)
I have the 2016/17 24" Dlx with the 254cc (AX254)engine - it has a yellow and black wires used for illumination and the optional grip warmers and is specd for 60 Watt.
I measured 10-11v AC at idle and 15-16v AC at full RPM
HTH
JerryR


----------



## akman1

akman1 said:


> Update...
> @Tooold, You may be right as I was only repeating what the mechanic told me. I've been told several different things - and then the lights quit working the first time they were used. Now I get to figure out why and if they can be saved.


Update 2

Took the lights apart to find the PT4115 14360Y chip had blown off the PCB on one and melted on the other. "The PT4115 is a continuous conduction mode inductive step-down converter, designed for driving single or multiple series connected LED efficiently from a voltage source higher than the total LED chain voltage." Each light has 2 LEDs.

I wrote to the distributer who said "AC should not hurt the lights although they may not light up. These lights can work from 9-24VDC."

Anyway, it seems the current going into the lights was too much for this chip to handle so I wonder if running them in series would help reduce current draw.


----------



## KLH1966SS

I have coming a Ariens Deluxe 28 SHO with the 306cc engine. Dose any one know the AC ratting or out put is??
In advance Thank you for any help.


This is The best web site for people with Snow blowers/ Throwers.


Lee


----------



## JerryR

KLH1966SS said:


> I have coming a Ariens Deluxe 28 SHO with the 306cc engine. Dose any one know the AC ratting or out put is??
> In advance Thank you for any help.
> 
> 
> This is The best web site for people with Snow blowers/ Throwers.
> 
> 
> Lee


The 24"deluxe with the AX254 engine is rated 60W ac, so my guess is, yours is at least that much.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## KLH1966SS

JerryR said:


> The 24"deluxe with the AX254 engine is rated 60W ac, so my guess is, yours is at least that much.
> HTH
> JerryR



Thank you. Shipment was delayed due to weather. Now going to be here the 14th. 


Lee


----------



## Akimbot

I want to update the lighting on my new Ariens 24" compact (24LE) and really like the Nilight 1260lm Fog Lights. My only concern is their 18W (ea) power draw. The stock circuit runs the Halogen light which uses approximately 20 Watts. I can't seem to find out what my stater is capable of. I have spent considerable time trying to determine the amount of current that I can safely draw. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## JerryR

Akimbot said:


> I want to update my lighting for my new Ariens 24" compact (24LE) and really like the Nilight 1260lm Fog Lights. The only concern is the 18W (ea) power draw. My stock halogen circuit draws approximately 20 Watts. I can't seem to find out what my stater is rated for. I have spent considerable time trying to determine the amount of current that I can safely draw. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


One thing you can do is, get an AC ammeter hook it up in series with the HALOGEN lamp and note the current reading. substitute your LED lamp and make sure your led does not draw more than the Halogen did. 
One thing I found checking an LED aux lamp(not the one you have-but similar)is that with reduced voltage below a certain level (like when the eng. is idling) the current draw by the LED lamp increases dramatically, so check that too. 
The compact 24" (920021) stator output is rated 60 Watt AC. 
HTH
JerryR


----------



## KLH1966SS

MnP40c said:


> Here is a quick tutorial I put on youtube that explains how I added 18W Cree LED Headlights to my Ariens 28 Deluxe snowblower. Check out the video if you'd like. Hopefully it will help some of you out there.
> 
> https://youtu.be/agJFeNCQbA4
> This video explains how I added LED lights to my Ariens 28 Deluxe Snowblower. I was not able to add the pictures I wanted at the end of this video, but if you read the rest of this summary, it may help you out. I added some pictures to this forum post. You can see at the end of the forum some pictures of the snowblower being used at night.
> 
> Please note that the bridge rectifier I used has the model number KBPC5010, which can be found on EBAY. I also purchased two capacitors on EBAY rated 2200mfd 50V. The headlights are Cree 18watt LEDs (18W each) also purchased on EBAY. I purchased the wire connectors, heat shrink, wire, wire loom, and switch from O'Reilly Auto Parts. To complete this install, take the yellow wire that comes from the engine (stock halogen bulb) and connect it to a 5AMP inline fuse, then connect the fuse to the AC+ connector on the bridge rectifier.
> 
> The AC- on the bridge rectifier needs to be grounded to the snowblower (this can be grounded to any part of the frame or control housing). * NOTE:For some reason grounding this connection worked fine for me. You may want/need to connect the other AC output from your stator to the AC- on the bridge rectifier instead of grounding the connection (the black wire). With my setup, I did not connect the black wire from the stator (engine) to anything, and only used the yellow wire which connected to the AC+ on the rectifier. My lights work just fine in this scenario. However I am NOT an electical engineer, so this is based only on experience.*
> 
> *NEXT,* run wires between the DC+/- OUT and the switch for your headlights. Place the two capacitors listed above between the DC OUT from your bridge rectifier, and the switch for your headlights. From the switch, run a positive and negative wire to your LED Headlights. One wire will connect to the Accessory connector on the switch, and the other to the ground connector. Soldering the connections is highly recommended, and using heat shrink will also help in securing your connections. In this case, I mounted my LED lights above the auger on my snowblower. This worked for my Ariens 28 Deluxe! If you have a different snowblower, you may require a slightly different setup. However, the process for installing aftermarket LED headlights will be very similar to this tutorial.



First off THANK you for your Video and Posting on this forum. I just got in the Ariens Delux 28 SHO. I love it. But now the snow is melting and with 40 degree rain its going fast. Anyway I wanted to ask you on the placement of the 2 5amp fuses. Correct me if I am wrong. Fuse 1 is between the engine and the bridge rectifier and fuse 2 is between the lights and light switch or is it between the switch and capacitors?? Please let me know.


Lee


----------



## ST1300

Have been reading about the lighting upgrades to the Hondas and since I aquired a 2007 fairly recently had thought about doing some of this.. In searching for information I found that --Superbright LEDs -- sells a direct LED replacement for the PAR36 sealed beam in the rubber housing, and thought I would pass along the information. 
It is listed as PAR36NW9w-160 comes in white and colors 670 lumens (65-70w equivelent incandesant) uses 7.3 to 9 watts and is listed as 12Volt AC and DC so no diode bridge and capacitors setup is necessary. It fits right into the rubber truck type housing so Hondas with the newer 15W lights could use it with no modifications to their electrical system, they would just have to get the rubber housing, which is available just about anywhere on line or auto parts store. This would "probably" work in many other machines also with AC output in the range of 12 volts.


----------



## Freezn

So would this Par 36 12v AC/DC bulb work with a Honda HS928 putting out 12 volts AC without the need of a bridge rectifier? 






If so, how do I calculate the amp draw to make sure I'm under the 4amp stator rating?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

That par36 bulb says in it's description AC/DC so it should work fine without any AC to DC conversion. BUT . . . is states it's 12 volt and I'm not sure if it's going to handle the higher voltages that a snowblower without a voltage regulator produce. On a lawn tractor you have a regulated supply but on almost all snowblowers it's unregulated. The exception is if it has an on board battery and 12 volt starter.
Most of the lights that are used in this thread have a range going up to 20 to 36volts.

I was surprised to see the Superbrightleds bulb was cheaper than getting it at Amazon (not counting shipping).


----------



## Freezn

It looks like the operating voltage range is 10v to 30v AC/DC, so that should cover the voltage spike when the machine is under load. Sound about right?


----------



## ST1300

It is my understanding from reading the Honda thread that newer machines (somewhere in the 2009 to 2014 models) with the 15 watt incandesent bulb this is the watt limited load of the machines. The superbright LED says it draws a load of 7.2 to 9 watts. My "best guess" would be that is because it can run on DC and draw7.2, a little less than it would on AC at 9watts- because it is still converting to DC internallyl for the LED light. But it should safely run on any machine with these 15 watt incandesants. You would still probably have to buy the Peterson Mfg. rubber housing if you don't have that, because they are a direct pop-in replacement. 
Don't get confused with the LUMENS output which is equivilent to a 65-70watt incandesent. & I don't know any specs. on the newer machines factory LED installed lights.
The older machines with the dual coils have an output of 48-50 watts and use the PAR35 watt incandesent which draws 2.5-2.7 Amps. So be going to this superbright LED it is possible to use the remaining amps of power to add heated handgrips of 30-35 watts. I know someone who is doing this on an older 624 and I have a lamp ordered to install on my 2007 928 with heated handgrips.


----------



## Ariensnowblower

Very nice. Job well done. Please post pictures of where's everything is connect. And what's the amp or watts for the blue thing look like the fuse that the red and black wire connect to it. Thank you.


----------



## Bolack

This is my first post on this forum, and this thread is very interesting.
I'm from Canada (french) and i use google translate many time :wink2:

This summer was a nice time to upgrade my 2005 snowblower. Have a MTD Yardmachine (Tecumseh 8 HP)

I buy a flywheel and a stator for this model because there were none. I buy user. The stator is 18 watt and on user manual the halogen light is 27 watt.
I read this thread couple of time.
I make a little sketch and want to know if is ok...and need info for fuse.


----------



## Bolack

Where u put our switch on off light (del) after capacitor?


----------



## akman1

General questions:
1. Some are saying snowblowers output AC current, but doesn't AC require 2 leads - current and common? My blower has 1 lead for lights and 1 lead for handwarmers, using the frame for ground. Or is that wrong?
2. Some are building their own AC/DC converters. Would buying one like the one below work the same?










https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Waterproof-Converter-Adapter-Security/dp/B018LF3XQI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505023790&sr=8-3&keywords=24v+ac+to+12v+dc+converter 

Thanks


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

That converter should work.
Almost all small engines just have the one lead and use the frame as the other conductor to power things UNLESS they have a battery to charge. In your case it has two and still uses the frame as the common conductor. The headlight lead might have a diode in it to use with an LED headlight. It's the cheapest way of making it work. You could also look for a LED headlight that will work on AC. They have their own converter built into the circuitry and they aren't that expensive.


----------



## akman1

Thanks. Will try the converter as it's cheaper than building one. I've looked but haven't had much success in locating a 12v AC light for it.


----------



## akman1

So here's what I used. Main parts ordered from Amazon. All parts totaled $45-$50:


Scosche 0400ATCFH16-5 ATC Fuse Holder 16 gauge 5 pack * $2.14* 

Miady 6 inch LED Light Bar 18W Flood Beam Off Road light for SUV, ATV, Jeep, 4x4, Pickup Truck, Boat (Pack of 2) * $15.99* (there's a similar one for half the price)

DIGITEN Waterproof 24V AC DC to 12VDC 3A Power Converter Adapter for CCTV Camera Security * $10.99* 


Other items bought locally or already had 


18 & 22 AWG wire
Solderless terminals
2 - 5 amp fuses
Lighted switch
1/2” Red wire loom – 10’
Zip ties
Zip tie anchors
Electrical tape
Converter is screwed to bottom of light housing with 2 fuse holders ziptied to it. No flickering occurred so capacitors weren't needed. One fuse was wired between AC out (engine) and the converter, The other one between DC out (converter) and the switch.










BEFORE:









AFTER:


----------



## Scrounger

Any suggestions on being able to see the photos? None of the photobucket images show up and none of videos will play either. 

Matthew


----------



## akman1

Mine show the X icon until I reload/refresh the page for some reason. If doing that doesn't help I may try another hosting approach.


----------



## NVA4370

For Firefox there is an add-on that seems to fix the problem. You can find more information about it here: 
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/user/foldor/?src=api

It also mentions a similar add-on for Chrome. 

I'm using the Firefox one and it seems to work as advertised.

Bob


----------



## Sled

since most of the pictures are gone from the thread i thought i'd go ahead and ask...how do you wire the switch? i just don't want to "try it out" and blow it.

currently i have the power coming off of the stator to the switch and the lights running to the dc outputs on the rectifier (pos on the diagonal blade). i'm unsure if i should run the switch ground to the rectifier ac or to the block or both. and then the acc power ? i'm not electrically inclined in the least. 

this is on my honda hs928


----------



## Dauntae

I actually JUST did one on the girlfriends this past weekend with a switch, I put the switch on the pos lead with fuse off the rectifier going to the light and it seems to work well, But it's only been tested and not put in use as of yet. Still need to get out of this 70 deg weather LOL


----------



## classiccat

folks adding on/off switches to these circuits better being using a voltage regulator (added or built-in).

When there's no-load on the stator, the voltage can get quite high.


----------



## Dauntae

Ah had no idea on that, where would you add that and any recommendations on one


----------



## classiccat

Dauntae said:


> Ah had no idea on that, where would you add that and any recommendations on one


Don't beat yourself up about it! It's not intuitive. Disconnect it and measure the DC output. My Tecumseh HM80 exceeding 50VDC (_reported in this thread_).

My recommendation is to ditch the switch...use it to power your pretend 50cal machine gun or something. :smile_big:


----------



## Dauntae

Yea but it’s my girls SB, She would want a REAL 50 cal lol, guess I’ll just take the switch out


----------



## 10953

classiccat said:


> folks adding on/off switches to these circuits better being using a voltage regulator (added or built-in).
> 
> When there's no-load on the stator, the AC voltage can get quite high.


 I would also like to know more, 


the new toro has a switch of the grips leaves the light on 100% of the time, I've added a switch to turn it off after seeing the price of the bulb and not planning on using the machine at night plus a inline fuse to protect both should one short out 


also i looked at the instructions from mtd for their grip heater kit, nothing is written about adding any regulator for either of 3 options to install it.


----------



## rhg1911

I am looking to add the lights to an Ariens Hydro Pro 36"... but there is not much room on the panel to add a switch. With the EFI engine, there are a few extra goodies on the panel. I already bought the components needed, and the switch is very similar to the factory hand warmer switch. The only thing I can think of is to expand the switch opening and add a double switch mount. Has anyone made this mod to the new EFI Ariens blowers yet? Is there a better place to mount the switch? I've also considered removing the factory light and mounting the switch on a cover over what used to be the light opening...


----------



## 98234

Switch location is non critical. Can be anywhere out of the way of snow/water. Only suggestion I have is to not mount it on the panel facing you..ie...where the decal says auto turn....as you will end up bumping it....or your jacket will catch it. IMO.

I would like to add a lesson learned....I put my lights on the upper part of the snow intake...to stay out of the chute shadow issue....that was a mistake...snow gets way too high here where I live......and the got covered too often. I ended up mounting to handle bars about console height. Even though they are behind the chute....they are far enough offset the chute shadow is not an issue...and stay snow free.


----------



## AndyB123

I have an Ariens 24 Platinum SHO with stock heated handle grips. I have two cheap Chinese 18 watt led lights that I plan on hooking up. I have the rectifier, capacitors, and wiring info all set I believe. I had planned on using a dpdt toggle on-off-on switch so could make it so that either the lights were on OR the heated handle grips were on. Never both at the same time. I'm under the impression that the stator on this puts out 60watts at 12v. I'm just wondering now if I could change my plans and change it to use both of the lights and heated handle grips at the same time? Would this be in the power range of the stator on this blower? Thanks for any info!


----------



## r00t

AndyB123 said:


> I have an Ariens 24 Platinum SHO with stock heated handle grips. I have two cheap Chinese 18 watt led lights that I plan on hooking up. I have the rectifier, capacitors, and wiring info all set I believe. I had planned on using a dpdt toggle on-off-on switch so could make it so that either the lights were on OR the heated handle grips were on. Never both at the same time. I'm under the impression that the stator on this puts out 60watts at 12v. I'm just wondering now if I could change my plans and change it to use both of the lights and heated handle grips at the same time? Would this be in the power range of the stator on this blower? Thanks for any info!


Have the 24PlatSHO also. Haven't done the light upgrade yet myself. However, according to what I've researched, the hand warmers consume approx. 30 watts of the 60w the stator creates. Therefore, there should be a +30 watt balance for lights. With your 18w x2 = 36watts depending on the vague +/- of things, as the stator relies on engine RPM to create the electricity, you could run short at lower RPMs. I have read of people using capacitors to smooth-out the power delivery in addition to the bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC. That would likely help. But again, haven't done mine yet, so just theory at the moment.


----------



## AndyB123

r00t said:


> Have the 24PlatSHO also. Haven't done the light upgrade yet myself. However, according to what I've researched, the hand warmers consume approx. 30 watts of the 60w the stator creates. Therefore, there should be a +30 watt balance for lights. With your 18w x2 = 36watts depending on the vague +/- of things, as the stator relies on engine RPM to create the electricity, you could run short at lower RPMs. I have read of people using capacitors to smooth-out the power delivery in addition to the bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC. That would likely help. But again, haven't done mine yet, so just theory at the moment.


Thanks for the reply! I'm just waiting on my rectifier and capacitors to get here. Then I'll find out what the current draw is on the leds. Hopefully they'll be less than what's stated. But worst case scenario is that I'll just have to use either the lights or the heated handle grips. The heated handle grips are new to me, as is the snowblower itself, so I don't know yet just how much I'd miss them if I have to turn them off.

Andy


----------



## rhg1911

AndyB123 said:


> Thanks for the reply! I'm just waiting on my rectifier and capacitors to get here. Then I'll find out what the current draw is on the leds. Hopefully they'll be less than what's stated. But worst case scenario is that I'll just have to use either the lights or the heated handle grips. The heated handle grips are new to me, as is the snowblower itself, so I don't know yet just how much I'd miss them if I have to turn them off.
> 
> Andy


According to the spare parts on Ariens web site, the halogen light is a 20watt light. Depending what is added, as long as it is less than the 20 watts... you should have no problem. I can't see the output capacity of the stator... (Ariens P/N 20000678)

Someone with more experience / knowledge will hopefully fill in the blanks and correct me if my thinking if off.


----------



## bel4_20

Hello everyone. amongst the 92 pages of this post is there a wiring diagram? I have a 17-18 year old MTD with a 10HP Tecumseh that I'd love to add a set of LED lights to as the old tractor light i mounted to it years ago is no where bright enough. I would love to work from a wiring diagram for this project. Is there one?


Thanks


----------



## Taurus04

Paul.E.Wogg said:


> I would like to add a lesson learned....I put my lights on the upper part of the snow intake...to stay out of the chute shadow issue....that was a mistake...snow gets way too high here where I live......and the got covered too often. I ended up mounting to handle bars about console height. Even though they are behind the chute....they are far enough offset the chute shadow is not an issue...and stay snow free.



Can you give me a line on where to get brackets for handlebar mount that are big enough to fit the handlebar? I have to do the same to my Craftsman 10/32. It is the large frame model with flipper grips for auger and drive.


----------



## nastorino

r00t said:


> Have the 24PlatSHO also. Haven't done the light upgrade yet myself. However, according to what I've researched, the hand warmers consume approx. 30 watts of the 60w the stator creates. Therefore, there should be a +30 watt balance for lights. With your 18w x2 = 36watts depending on the vague +/- of things, as the stator relies on engine RPM to create the electricity, you could run short at lower RPMs. I have read of people using capacitors to smooth-out the power delivery in addition to the bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC. That would likely help. But again, haven't done mine yet, so just theory at the moment.


Subscribed as I also have a 24 PlatSHO EFI


----------



## JerryR

AndyB123 said:


> Thanks for the reply! I'm just waiting on my rectifier and capacitors to get here. Then I'll find out what the current draw is on the leds. Hopefully they'll be less than what's stated. But worst case scenario is that I'll just have to use either the lights or the heated handle grips. The heated handle grips are new to me, as is the snowblower itself, so I don't know yet just how much I'd miss them if I have to turn them off.
> 
> Andy


I don't know how much headroom there is in that 60W spec when both the heated grips AND the 20W lamp are used, so I assumed (worst case)that there is 0W headroom.
Most of these types of LED lamps have a pretty wide range of DC voltage they operate at, so the fact that your LEDs are rated 18W - at what voltage? you might be surprised that the load they impose on the stator(depending on the voltage output of your bridge and size caps you use) is less than what you think(I used LEDs advertised at 10W @ 12 to 24V DC (the LEDs measured on the bench Approx 500mA @ 12V =6W(DC), far cry from 10W. I did not try 24V)
I think that the way to determine whether your stator will support 2 18W LEDs instead of 1 20W halogen lamp, is to compare the voltage and current of the LEDs Vs. the halogen in actual use.
I have the 24" dlx with the same stator spec of 60W, 20W halogen, and the optional heated grips.
(I used Volts Amperes (V x A) units instead of watts - I don't know how to calculate AC Watts-I know it's not the same as calculating DC Watts)
I used an AC Voltmeter(RMS) and an AC Ammeter to monitor the output of the stator, Here is what I measured (all readings are at hi spd):
20W Halogen lamp ONLY: 15V @ 1.8A =27VA - this 27VA figure became my reference, since all I wanted to know what will happen when I sub the LEDs for the halogen.
2 10W LEDs ONLY: 15.2V @.96A =14.6VA (well below the 27VA for the halogen)
I also compared the 20W halogen AND the heated grips on together, to the 2 10W LEDs AND the heated grips:
20W halogen lamp AND the heated grips: 14V @4.2A = 58.8VA 
2 10W LEDs AND heated grips: 14.3V @ 3.7A =52.9VA 
HTH
JerryR


----------



## 98234

Taurus04 said:


> Can you give me a line on where to get brackets for handlebar mount that are big enough to fit the handlebar? I have to do the same to my Craftsman 10/32. It is the large frame model with flipper grips for auger and drive.


I bought some motorcycle mirror mounts off eBay ....from China, for about 3$ .... I had to drill and tap holes....but they worked ok. Just check tube diameter and buy to suit.


----------



## AndyB123

JerryR said:


> I don't know how much headroom there is in that 60W spec when both the heated grips AND the 20W lamp are used, so I assumed (worst case)that there is 0W headroom.
> Most of these types of LED lamps have a pretty wide range of DC voltage they operate at, so the fact that your LEDs are rated 18W - at what voltage? you might be surprised that the load they impose on the stator(depending on the voltage output of your bridge and size caps you use) is less than what you think(I used LEDs advertised at 10W @ 12 to 24V DC (the LEDs measured on the bench Approx 500mA @ 12V =6W(DC), far cry from 10W. I did not try 24V)
> I think that the way to determine whether your stator will support 2 18W LEDs instead of 1 20W halogen lamp, is to compare the voltage and current of the LEDs Vs. the halogen in actual use.
> I have the 24" dlx with the same stator spec of 60W, 20W halogen, and the optional heated grips.
> (I used Volts Amperes (V x A) units instead of watts - I don't know how to calculate AC Watts-I know it's not the same as calculating DC Watts)
> I used an AC Voltmeter(RMS) and an AC Ammeter to monitor the output of the stator, Here is what I measured (all readings are at hi spd):
> 20W Halogen lamp ONLY: 15V @ 1.8A =27VA - this 27VA figure became my reference, since all I wanted to know what will happen when I sub the LEDs for the halogen.
> 2 10W LEDs ONLY: 15.2V @.96A =14.6VA (well below the 27VA for the halogen)
> I also compared the 20W halogen AND the heated grips on together, to the 2 10W LEDs AND the heated grips:
> 20W halogen lamp AND the heated grips: 14V @4.2A = 58.8VA
> 2 10W LEDs AND heated grips: 14.3V @ 3.7A =52.9VA
> HTH
> JerryR


Thank you JerryR! That is incredibly helpful!


----------



## Karson

I inherited a 2007 Craftsman 28" with easy steer from my dad. I'm trying to find out what alternator output I have, but have some concerns. It has a B&S 1150 Snow Series on it, and looking at the parts fiche, has a 3A current, but I don't know at what voltage. I think I can just micrometer it on the AC setting and use Ohms law to determine total watts I have available?

I have a bridge rectifier ordered, (2) 2200 microfarad caps ready to go, and two 18W led lights. I would also like to put the MTD grip warmers on. If I disconnect the halogen bulb, will I have enough juice for all of this?


----------



## NeoGP

Ok, So I read about halfway through the 90+ pages of this thread.. Has anyone considered using the onboard stator to charge a battery then run the lights/heated grips off the battery. You still need to regulate the voltage to the battery so its doesn't pop, but I'm thinking that you will have more consistent light through the RPM range, and when you park the machine just plug in a battery tender/float charger to keep the battery peaked. If you want to get really crazy you can use a small power supply fed from the battery to regulate voltage to your LED's.

just my .02


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

Hey all, been a long time lurker. Lots of info to digest. Im suprised I dont see more pictures on this thread!! Lets see some!

Specifically, has anyone done something with the snow cab mounting lights above that? The guy below really went to town on his setup, and thats exactly what I plan on doing! Picking up some 1" square tubing this week!


----------



## ajpleblanc

NeoGP said:


> Ok, So I read about halfway through the 90+ pages of this thread.. Has anyone considered using the onboard stator to charge a battery then run the lights/heated grips off the battery. You still need to regulate the voltage to the battery so its doesn't pop, but I'm thinking that you will have more consistent light through the RPM range, and when you park the machine just plug in a battery tender/float charger to keep the battery peaked. If you want to get really crazy you can use a small power supply fed from the battery to regulate voltage to your LED's.
> 
> just my .02


Having a battery isn't a bad idea at all. 

I think what's lost when reading through the majority of this thread is that while everyone has the same (or fairly similar) desired outcome, the starting point for everyone ranges very significantly. You've got folks with newer blowers, trying to replace lights using existing wiring and switches, all the way down to people like me, who have a 40 year old blower that's never had lights. I feel like that's why it's difficult to have a single "wiring diagram" that will fit everyone's needs. 

In terms of the battery, the major drawbacks I see are: 


Needing to fab up a battery mounting location, snowblowers don't always have a ton of extra space
You said yourself, you still need to regulate the voltage coming out of the battery


----------



## ajpleblanc

Karson said:


> I inherited a 2007 Craftsman 28" with easy steer from my dad. I'm trying to find out what alternator output I have, but have some concerns. It has a B&S 1150 Snow Series on it, and looking at the parts fiche, has a 3A current, but I don't know at what voltage. I think I can just micrometer it on the AC setting and use Ohms law to determine total watts I have available?
> 
> I have a bridge rectifier ordered, (2) 2200 microfarad caps ready to go, and two 18W led lights. I would also like to put the MTD grip warmers on. If I disconnect the halogen bulb, will I have enough juice for all of this?


I just put almost the exact same engine on my 1979 Ariens (mine is a 15C107) It came with an AC Only 60W/3A stator.


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

ajpleblanc said:


> Having a battery isn't a bad idea at all......
> 
> In terms of the battery, the major drawbacks I see are:
> 
> 
> Needing to fab up a battery mounting location, snowblowers don't always have a ton of extra space
> You said yourself, you still need to regulate the voltage coming out of the battery


I've thought of this too. I can help on the regulator. https://www.amazon.com/Stens-435-081-Voltage-Regulator-Kohler/dp/B000G65X4Q

I have an Ariens 921018. I bought all the parts to upgrade the 5 amp stator to a 10 amp stator, large BR, smoothing caps etc last year but never did the work till this year. Other than the video I just posted noone else on here I've seen make brackets for above the snow cab. Figure two 18 watt floods on the cab top, and two spots above the blower housing. The taillights and amber strobes seem like overkill, but it looks so fricking cool I want it regardless, and 10 amps is plenty for all the LEDs and hand warmers.









This is a common voltage regulator I see, its on my Kohler CV15S which runs my John Deere GT225 with 42' snowblower. I modded it with LED lights and electric actuators for the chute rotation and head angle. It has a 15 amp stator, and a Group 51 battery (you would think oversized but engine is high static compression with a release mechanism) The two outer of the 3 pins are for the VAC in from the stator, the body is the negative ground, and the middle pin is the positive. Just need a way to cool it off, but if you can find space for a battery this will keep it charged without overcharging.


----------



## NeoGP

ajpleblanc said:


> Having a battery isn't a bad idea at all.
> 
> I think what's lost when reading through the majority of this thread is that while everyone has the same (or fairly similar) desired outcome, the starting point for everyone ranges very significantly. You've got folks with newer blowers, trying to replace lights using existing wiring and switches, all the way down to people like me, who have a 40 year old blower that's never had lights. I feel like that's why it's difficult to have a single "wiring diagram" that will fit everyone's needs.
> 
> In terms of the battery, the major drawbacks I see are:
> 
> 
> Needing to fab up a battery mounting location, snowblowers don't always have a ton of extra space
> You said yourself, you still need to regulate the voltage coming out of the battery



All valid points, adding an alternator to an engine without is definitely no easy task. In those cases just run the lights off the battery for the few hours you use it. Hook it up to a charger when your done.. Alot of trailers have small battery boxes for electric brakes. For around $20 you can get a 12VDC 5AH battery and a battery box. All you need is some led lights and your good to go. No charging, no regulation, no fancy wiring. Just straight up VDC to lights and a switch.

For a location, I would hang it right off the back of the machine, a few bolts thru the rear transom or utilize the exisitng bolts that hold to cover on. Its a sealed battery so snow/ice/water, no worries, also the battery box has a cover so ++

Links
$5.00 Battery Box
$20 Battery


----------



## Runningfree91

mu toro 524 didnt have any alternator . So i decide to buy a rechargable 20W LED spot from amazon.

4H light with one charge


----------



## NeoGP

Runningfree91 said:


> mu toro 524 didnt have any alternator . So i decide to buy a rechargable 20W LED spot from amazon.
> 
> 4H light with one charge
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/KAWELL-Floodl...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5J2AY40P4DT958HVGHFC


You Sir are AWESOME!!!


----------



## Cadillacswagin

12" Lightbar Toro Power Max


----------



## jonnied12

Question relating to the capacitors for this project.


I read the entire thread several times and I see some people say they installed 2200 mF caps and others installed 2200 µF caps.
Another person stated that all that is required is 100 mF.
Someone even said 220 µF would be ok.


I understand the use of the caps is to smooth out the AC voltage on the DC side of the rectifier.
So let me ask this...
Has anyone checked the results with a scope to determine what is an acceptable range of smoothing with the installed caps to really protect the LED lights?
Or is the consensus, "if it doesn't flicker" everything is OK?
What is the requirement of the LED's we are using for clean power?
If I had a scope, and knowledge to use it, I would be more than willing to provide the answers to the above questions.:dizzy:
Equivalent Farads
Picofarad pF 10-12 0.000000000001 F 
Nanofarad nF 10-9 0.000000001 F 
Microfarad µF 10-6 0.000001 F 
Milifarad mF 10-3 0.001 F 
Kilofarad kF 103 1000 F 
I have been following this thread for a year. Just curious about the capacitors.


----------



## FractalJedi

@MnP40c great job on this video, I have an 28" Cub Cadet that I'm doing to do the same thing with and position them in the same place forward of the auger. Question, did you do anything as far as protecting the wiring besides the coil harness? Did you silicone treat the screws that held the lights, the switch, rectifier or capacitors? I'd like to try to waterproof what I can as I think that is what caused my halogen light assembly to go bad. 

Thanks, Rich


----------



## ggreenfield

Hello. Newbie here! I see I am late to the "LED lights on a snowblower" party! LOL I came upon this thread while looking for answers as to why my LED setup didn't work, hopefully you all can shed some "light" on the subject for me. I installed one 18w LED flood light with a bridge rectifier as I seen on a different forum a little while back. The light worked fin UNTIL I throttled the engine to full speed, then the light immediately went out. Thinking it may have been a bad light, i repeated the process. The exact same thing happened. The rectifier I used is rated @ 400v 25a. I honestly didn't pay attention to the ratings, I just ordered the first rectifier that came up in my search. I see the recommended one in this forum is ratted @ 1000v 50a. After reading through this thread I am wondering if I used the wrong rectifier and that may have caused this.

Here are the items I used:
Lights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EJWB62U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rectifier
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KRDPI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have exchanged the lights but am hesitant to install again until I know why this is happening.

Thanks everyone for the help.


----------



## jsup

Let me ask a stupid question based solely on ignorance. I've deposited a new Simplicity Signature series with the B/S 14.5 professional engine. 

I'd like to put a 12 light bar on the front of the chute. 

How many volts does the alternator in the engine put out? I was assuming it was a 12v system. Can't I just pick up the 12V source for the factory light and tap into that? It's a Halogen light, which I will change to LED when I get the unit. This way current draw doesn't become a problem. 

What do these alternators put out? Is the voltage that inconsistent that a regulator/rectifier is required? I would think that a rectifier/regulator is part of the system already since a light is provided from the factory.


----------



## drmerdp

You need to measure the voltage with a multimeter to be certain. Even if it’s 12v, it’s going to be 12v AC. That’s why a bridge rectifier is nessesary, to produce 12v DC to prevent flickering.


----------



## jsup

drmerdp said:


> You need to measure the voltage with a multimeter to be certain. Even if it’s 12v, it’s going to be 12v AC. That’s why a bridge rectifier is nessesary, to produce 12v DC to prevent flickering.


I just slapped myself on the forehead and said "OF COURSE". Slipped my mind alternators native output is AC. Used to dealing with automotive that have built in rectifiers.


----------



## 98234

I did the upgrade prior to last winter.
The directions here were excellent, and I appreciated the detail.....easy to do.
My lessons learned..after a year of snow...last year...where I live....
I would NOT recommend the led lights be placed in intake bucket....if you get heavy snow. The get blocked...covered...and bent. Using 2 LEDs as I did, I relocated and placed high off handlebars. A little shute shadow is far better than stopping and taking the snow off or bending back in position.
I did this using motorcycle mirror mounts I got off eBay...and redrilled/tapped holes to suit the lights.
Also it’s shorter to wire and less visible...less prone to issues with wiring...
Place your switch where you will not bump , catch on jacket etc. you only turn it on when required....does not need to be at hands reach.
If you clear snow in the dark....this is recommended upgrade for safety...visibility in dark areas.
My nickel.98 opinion.


----------



## jsup

Where can I get a schematic for the Simplicity Signature 24 inch blower? I'd like to see what I can hook up and where to tap it.

Thanks for the advice on the bucket lights. I'll keep that in mind.


----------



## drmerdp

Hey, I need a little help with an led install on a Honda hs624. It has a 12v 50watt lighting coil. The problem is it Does not have a two wire output. There is a single power wire output. 

How should I go about wiring in a bridge rectifier? I have built a nice full wave bridge rectifier setup but i didn’t realize the Honda has a single power wire. Do I simply connect one of the bridge rectifier AC leads to engine ground?


----------



## Dauntae

drmerdp said:


> Hey, I need a little help with an led install on a Honda hs624. It has a 12v 50watt lighting coil. The problem is it Does not have a two wire output. There is a single power wire output.
> 
> How should I go about wiring in a bridge rectifier? I have built a nice full wave bridge rectifier setup but i didn’t realize the Honda has a single power wire. Do I simply connect one of the bridge rectifier AC leads to engine ground?


Yes, I just added a light to a blower with no light and had the same question, One to ground and other to power wire.


----------



## drmerdp

Great thanks.


----------



## ggreenfield

Anyone know if using a different rectifier would cause the light to burn out almost immediately? Without checking I used a KBPC2504 (25amp 400v) instead of the KBPC5010 (50amp 1000v) and the light worked until went full throttle and then the light immediately burnt out. I ordered another light but don't want install until I can figure out why it fried. 

Thanks!


----------



## JerryR

ggreenfield said:


> Anyone know if using a different rectifier would cause the light to burn out almost immediately? Without checking I used a KBPC2504 (25amp 400v) instead of the KBPC5010 (50amp 1000v) and the light worked until went full throttle and then the light immediately burnt out. I ordered another light but don't want install until I can figure out why it fried.
> 
> Thanks!


I don't think the rectifier is your problem.
It's more likely that you are exceeding the lamp voltage ratings.
Do you have a capacitor on the rectifier output? did you measure the UN-LOADED(before you connect the lamps) voltage being fed to your lamps(both AC and DC)?.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## jonnied12

jonnied12 said:


> Question relating to the capacitors for this project.
> 
> 
> I read the entire thread several times and I see some people say they installed 2200 mF caps and others installed 2200 µF caps.
> Another person stated that all that is required is 100 mF.
> Someone even said 220 µF would be ok.
> 
> 
> I understand the use of the caps is to smooth out the AC voltage on the DC side of the rectifier.
> So let me ask this...
> Has anyone checked the results with a scope to determine what is an acceptable range of smoothing with the installed caps to really protect the LED lights?
> Or is the consensus, "if it doesn't flicker" everything is OK?
> What is the requirement of the LED's we are using for clean power?
> If I had a scope, and knowledge to use it, I would be more than willing to provide the answers to the above questions.:dizzy:
> Equivalent Farads
> Picofarad pF 10-12 0.000000000001 F
> Nanofarad nF 10-9 0.000000001 F
> Microfarad µF 10-6 0.000001 F
> Milifarad mF 10-3 0.001 F
> Kilofarad kF 103 1000 F
> I have been following this thread for a year. Just curious about the capacitors.


Couldn't stand it. I bought a USB O-scope and probes, and a 120V to 12V low voltage 60 watt lighting transformer. 
Rectifier installed in circuit.
Used the stock 1141 12V 18 Watt bulb that came with my blower.
Here are the results - 0 caps, 2 ea. 470uF, and 1 ea. 2200uF cap.


----------



## ggreenfield

JerryR said:


> I don't think the rectifier is your problem.
> It's more likely that you are exceeding the lamp voltage ratings.
> Do you have a capacitor on the rectifier output? did you measure the UN-LOADED(before you connect the lamps) voltage being fed to your lamps(both AC and DC)?.
> HTH
> JerryR


The lamps are ratted for 10-30vDC. 
No capacitor. The original video/thread I seen on doing this install didn't mention the use of them. 
I measured around 9.5vDC at idle and a peak of 16.2vDC at full throttle at the output of the rectifier and 9.2vAC at idle and 17.2vAC at full throttle at the inlet of the rectifier. These readings were without the lights attached.


----------



## drmerdp

Got my setup up and running. This was a rejuvenation project on my friends HS624.

I decided to use a plastic enclosure and mount it where the electric start would be if equipped. I went with an 8 amp 400v full bridge rectifier because it was a third the price of the 25 or 50amp rectifiers most people use. Its also rated for 4 times the amount of amps i'll be using. Will it stand up to 1.8 amps over the long haul, time will tell. Its compact size is very helpful for fitting the capacitors in the small box. I originally had a singe 1000 µF capacitor then decided to double it for the extra smoothening which help eliminate the ever so slight flicker at idle. 

Super Bright

12v 50w lighting coil according to parts list
27watt led 6.5" fixture
operating rage 10v-32v

8amp 400v Full bridge rectifier.
2(x) 1000µF 30v capacitors


Multimeter readings

AC Readings No load
Idle volts 10vac
Full volts 19.8vac

DC readings no load
Idle volts 9.8vdc
Full volts 40vdc - Checked with 3 different multimeters. Decided to put a resistive load on the circuit to see how much the voltage would drop. 
- Tested with a 3156 bulb which just so happens to be 27 watts. Voltage dropped to 15... Perfect.

DC readings Loaded 27watts.
Idle volts 9.2vdc
Full volts 15.2 vdc


----------



## jonnied12

drmerdp, thanks for the voltage readings.
Nice clean job there.


----------



## ggreenfield

drmerdp, where did you get that plastic box? I like that idea!


----------



## drmerdp

It’s an electrical project box. I have a store nearby called Wayne electronics that has walls full of diodes, resistors, capacitors, wires, connectors...

It’s a wealth of anything electrical.

I drilled a hole in the side and added a rubber grommet then just ran wires into it. Kept the hole at the bottom to keep water out.


----------



## E350

jonnied12 said:


> Couldn't stand it. I bought a USB O-scope and probes


What is the link to that usb oscilloscope?


----------



## jonnied12

E350 said:


> What is the link to that usb oscilloscope?


 


BitScope Micro Model 5 | A tiny USB Mixed Signal Oscilloscope
BitScope MP01 | Dual Channel Mixed Signal BNC Probe Adapter
http://my.bitscope.com/store/?p=view&i=item+3


Newark is the US distributor Only took two days to get it.
You will need at least the 10:1 probe listed below.
The BS05P comes with the MP01 hammer head probe adapter.
Download BitScopeDSO and BitScopeMeter software from the BitScope site it is free. My screenshots are from BitScopeDSO.

BS05P - BITSCOPE - USB Oscilloscope, BitScope Micro, 2+6 Channel, 20 MHz, 40 MSPS | Newark element14
Invoice:
Line No: 1 Stock No: Manufacturer Part No: UOM: Quantity: Price: Extended Price: 

51Y5800 
*BS05P *
Kit 1 
1 
$138.63 
$138.63
Customer Part Number: 
Description: OSCILLOSCOPE, 8-CH, 20MHZ, 40MSPS; Product Range:BitScope Micro; Scope Channels:2+6 Channel; Bandwidth:20MHz; Sampling Rate:40MSPS; Display Memory Depth:-; Calculated Rise Time:-; Warranty:-; Plug Type:USB
Line No: 2 Stock No: Manufacturer Part No: UOM: Quantity: Price: Extended Price: 

50Y2688 
*PRB-01* 
Each 1 
1 
$33.00 
$33.00
Customer Part Number: 
Description: PROBE, PASSIVE, 1/10:1, 100MHZ, 600VDC; Oscilloscope Probe Functionassive; Bandwidth:100MHz; Input Voltage Max:600VDC; Test Probe Attenuation:1:1, 10:1; For Use With:BitScope BNC Terminated Oscilloscopes; Product Range:-
Line No: 3 Stock No: Manufacturer Part No: UOM: Quantity: Price: Extended Price: 

50Y2689 
*PRB-02* 
Each 1 
1 
$38.28 
$38.28
Customer Part Number: 
Description: PROBE, PASSIVE, 100:1, 300MHZ, 1.5KV; Oscilloscope Probe Functionassive; Bandwidth:300MHz; Input Voltage Max:1.5kV; Test Probe Attenuation:100:1; For Use With:BitScope BNC Terminated Oscilloscopes; Product Range:-
Your Merchandise Total $209.91 
Your Freight Total $5.15
Your Tax Total $12.91
Your Invoice Total $227.97
Sale in USD


----------



## ggreenfield

Rectifier and two 2200uf caps wired in. Stole the box idea from drmerdp. Just waiting on the new light to come in. Hopefully it all works this time!


----------



## FullThrottle

Hi Folks
My 2018 Honda 928ATCD has the LED light,I like to add another Led light,as the one on it is fairly low and dosen't give of that much light.My question,is could I connect another light in parallel with the exciting one,if so what watt wattage would I need without taking power away from charging the battery or overloading the circuit.


----------



## Bill601

Hi everyone. I've been reading through this thread and have gotten to about page 8 of 58. I can't wait anymore, I have to ask - has anyone just connected two LED's, one forward, one backward, across the AC coming off the snowblower? Seems like one would get the positive peaks, the other would get the negative peaks. You might not need a rectifier.

I experimented with just one, and it flickered like crazy at idle, but heck, I can see the halogen flicker at idle. Crank the thing up to full throttle, which is where you're going to run it anyway, and you can hardly notice it. And if you had two LED's flickering alternately, you really wouldn't notice.

Also, does anyone know what kind of power these snowthrower engines put out? I've got a 2011 Ariens Pro 28 with the 420 cc Briggs. I have several LED floodlights. I got a great deal on Amazon a while ago - eight lights, 18W 6-LED's, 9-32VDC. The halogen light is 20W. Seems like two LED's connected as I've describe wouldn't draw more than 20W, but I'll have to try it out with an ammeter in-line and see what I get. I might be able to borrow a scope and see if the resulting waveform is what I'm expecting.

I know some people have said some of their LED's didn't survive very long. I'm wondering if they just had their maximum voltage exceeded?

I tried to upload a video (short, under 1M) but it I couldn't attach it. It just kind of bounced out of the Drag Files Here box.

Bill


----------



## jonnied12

The LED you hook up backwards will just not work. LEDs are polarity sensitive. 
They are just basically a Diode that allows voltage to flow in only one direction, like a check valve in a hydraulic circuit.


----------



## drmerdp

missileman said:


> Hi Folks
> My 2018 Honda 928ATCD has the LED light,I like to add another Led light,as the one on it is fairly low and dosen't give of that much light.My question,is could I connect another light in parallel with the exciting one,if so what watt wattage would I need without taking power away from charging the battery or overloading the circuit.


I could not find an exact rating for the lighting coil on the HSS. For my HSS Decided to air on the side of caution and assume that the coil is maxed out by the existing lamp and that the on board battery is the best option for a power source. 

After a bunch of uses last season the charging coil has no problem keeping the battery fully charged with my 40watts of additional lighting.


----------



## FullThrottle

So you think it would be safe to install an addition LED light in parallel with the exciting led light,by the looks of the wire going the LED Light,it wouldn't be much bigger than a 20-22 gauge wire or even smaller.Hopefully it would handle an additional light/current. 



drmerdp said:


> I could not find an exact rating for the lighting coil on the HSS. For my HSS Decided to air on the side of caution and assume that the coil is maxed out by the existing lamp and that the on board battery is the best option for a power source.
> 
> After a bunch of uses last season the charging coil has no problem keeping the battery fully charged with my 40watts of additional lighting.


----------



## drmerdp

missileman said:


> So you think it would be safe to install an addition LED light in parallel with the exciting led light,by the looks of the wire going the LED Light,it wouldn't be much bigger than a 20-22 gauge wire or even smaller.Hopefully it would handle an additional light/current.


I don’t know how much more capacity there is to work with on that coil. It seems oddly small but the whole assembly has 3 separate coils that power the chute motors, charge the battery, and power the light. 

[email protected] helped me with the specs last year. The lighting portion is rated for 0.36 amps 11.5 volts @ 1950RPM. This is helpful but it doesn’t paint the full picture. I forgot the voltage at full RPMS. Got to check again.

Would really need to add a load and make sure the voltage stays within the lamps spec.

Ill get around to measuring the factory light wattage and full rpm voltage. I have to do some adjustments to my lights, the GX390 is quite a bit bigger then the GX270.


----------



## drmerdp

ggreenfield said:


> Rectifier and two 2200uf caps wired in. Stole the box idea from drmerdp. Just waiting on the new light to come in. Hopefully it all works this time!


How’d it work out?


----------



## FullThrottle

Thank you for all your Expertise/knowledge,appreciate it very much.



drmerdp said:


> I don’t know how much more capacity there is to work with on that coil. It seems oddly small but the whole assembly has 3 separate coils that power the chute motors, charge the battery, and power the light.
> 
> [email protected] helped me with the specs last year. The lighting portion is rated for 0.36 amps 11.5 volts @ 1950RPM. This is helpful but it doesn’t paint the full picture. I forgot the voltage at full RPMS. Got to check again.
> 
> Would really need to add a load and make sure the voltage stays within the lamps spec.
> 
> Ill get around to measuring the factory light wattage and full rpm voltage. I have to do some adjustments to my lights, the GX390 is quite a bit bigger then the GX270.


----------



## Bill601

Probably depends on the engine RPM's. I REALLY need to borrow that Fluke ScopeMeter from work.


----------



## ggreenfield

drmerdp said:


> How’d it work out?


Don't know yet. New light should be here tomorrow. Hope to install this weekend. The box is a little on the small side but my local electronics store was limited on options. The last light I installed burnt out immediately when I went full throttle with the engine so I'm hoping the addition of the capacitors help.


----------



## jonnied12

ggreenfield said:


> Don't know yet. New light should be here tomorrow. Hope to install this weekend. The box is a little on the small side but my local electronics store was limited on options. The last light I installed burnt out immediately when I went full throttle with the engine so I'm hoping the addition of the capacitors help.


 The capacitors make all the difference. See the examples in my post # 946 on page 95 of this thread. With no capacitors the rectified voltage is swinging from 0 Volts to 12.6 volts every cycle (first photo). With one 2200uF capacitor, the voltage drop is only around 2.6 Volts.
I will be doing more testing and documentation at full speed, mid-speed, and idle when I get more parts in early next week.


----------



## E350

*jonnied12*: Very very cool! I am trying to become more of an electrical/electronics guy, so learning how to see what is going on through the use of test equipment is helpful to understanding. Bookmarked for future possible purchase. Thanks buddy!


----------



## jonnied12

E350 said:


> *jonnied12*: Very very cool! I am trying to become more of an electrical/electronics guy, so learning how to see what is going on through the use of test equipment is helpful to understanding. Bookmarked for future possible purchase. Thanks buddy!


E350, thanks. I had to do a lot of research to learn the basics of using an oscilloscope. Still learning. 
I'm just trying to present a visual representation of what we are all trying to accomplish here. 
I will provide more detailed information next week.


----------



## jonnied12

Ok, long post here, I wanted to record "voltage" and "watt" readings today using my Fluke meter and my Watt's UP meter to see what my Snowblower's stator is putting out.
I also quickly hooked up the O-Scope to the AC side to see what it reads as far as voltages at different speeds. 
I am not going to post those results yet as they were just quick samples. I am not sure about the accuracy of those readings as far as voltage goes because the readings did not follow what my Fluke reported at full, mid, and idle speed. Is the scope more accurate? I don't know yet. I will test soon to find out what the actual truth is.
I will tell you this though. The stator AC frequency is 175.4 Hz at full throttle. Assuming the engine is running at 3600 RPM, it works out to 20.52 RPM per HZ. Is this related to how many "poles" and "magnets" in the stator and flywheel? I don't know.
Anyway, here is what I measured today before I got too COLD.


*AC (RMS)Voltage Readings using a Fluke Multimeter.*
AC Voltage @ Idle - no load- 10.4V
AC Voltage @ Mid Throttle - no load- 12.1V
AC Voltage @ Full Throttle - no load- 14.7V
AC Voltage @ Idle with stock 18 Watt 1141 Bulb- 9.6V
AC Voltage @ Mid Throttle with stock 18 Watt 1141 Bulb- 11.7V
AC Voltage @ Full Throttle with stock 18 Watt 1141 Bulb- 14V
*Rectified DC Voltage Readings using a "Watt's UP" meter from my electric RC flying days.*
DC Voltage @ Idle - no load- 8.9V
DC Voltage @ Mid Throttle - no load- 10.75V
DC Voltage @ Full Throttle - no load- 13.1V
*DC Voltage with 2200uF Capacitor and 18 Watt LED using the "Watt's UP" meter*
DC Voltage @ Idle - 2200uF Capacitor and 18 Watt LED- 9.57V
DC Voltage @ Mid Throttle - 2200uF Capacitor and 18 Watt LED- 11.85V
DC Voltage @ Full Throttle - 2200uF Capacitor and 18 Watt LED- 15.45V
*DC Watts with 2200uF Capacitor and 18 Watt LED using the "Watt's UP" meter*
DC Watts @ Idle - 2200uF Capacitor and 18 Watt LED- 5.7 Watts (.59 Amps)
DC Watts @ Mid Throttle - 2200uF Capacitor and 18 Watt LED- 11.4 Watts (1.04 Amps)
DC Watts @ Full Throttle - 2200uF Capacitor and 18 Watt LED- 15.2 Watts (1.016 Amps)


----------



## snow-shovel

Your calculation for AC frequency is inverted. You divided 3600 RPM / 175.4 HZ to come up with 20.52 for which the proper dimensional analysis is RPM/HZ. Therefore, for each AC frequency, there are 20.52 revolutions. Seems the frequency should vary with engine speed.


----------



## jonnied12

snow-shovel said:


> Your calculation for AC frequency is inverted. You divided 3600 RPM / 175.4 HZ to come up with 20.52 for which the proper dimensional analysis is RPM/HZ. Therefore, for each AC frequency, there are 20.52 revolutions. Seems the frequency should vary with engine speed.


 
snow-shovel, thanks for clearing my clouded mind. I must have been breathing too much exhaust.
:icon-sick:
Yes the frequency does change with engine speed. It was reading 120.6 Hz at Idle.
Note, I updated my post above with the correct info.


----------



## crack-kitty

*Troy-Bilt Storm Tracker 2690 XP - Cree LED Lights*

Hey there... I posed on 2 previous threads that I was planning to do this LED upgrade.
After a few false starts, I finished it this weekend.

Thank you to everyone for posting your thoughts and for MnP40c (and others) for detailed descriptions.
I used the same 18W Cree lights from Amazon that others have used http://a.co/ddMuz2I 
This switch: http://a.co/272sWH7
These capacitors (2x): http://a.co/8Ho4UFI
This rectifier: http://a.co/78hWEoq
These fuses: http://a.co/7Sifncg
If you're like me... this was my first project of this kind... I had nothing... no wire, no connectors, no crimpers, no experience. Anyway, I bought wire, electrical tape, connectors, etc... probably paid more than I should have for those. Anyway...

Here are my results:

Mount:









Wiring-side









Lights









Lighting up my garage... all lights off.









A little video of it running.


----------



## jonnied12

crack-kitty, nice job! nothing wrong there. Nice job.
Don't breathe too many of those exhaust fumes in the garage. Trust me!


----------



## crack-kitty

jonnied12 said:


> crack-kitty, nice job! nothing wrong there. Nice job.
> Don't breathe too many of those exhaust fumes in the garage. Trust me!


Haha thanks!! Yeah, door closed just for the filming so it would be dark, then machine off, door open! 
I took it for a spin around the driveway later, now all I need is snow!!


----------



## drmerdp

Well done, looks good. I just finished another LED install on an MTD. Probably has the same power coils as your Troybilt. I have a bunch of number to post too.


----------



## jonnied12

drmerdp said:


> Well done, looks good. I just finished another LED install on an MTD. Probably has the same power coils as your Troybilt. I have a bunch of number to post too.


 I will be looking forward to your numbers. I may get out with the o-scope and a bag of capacitors today. It's supposed to be 65 degrees here today.:smile2:


----------



## ggreenfield

Finally had time to finish my install. The capacitors definitely made a difference.


----------



## drmerdp

*09 MTD Gold 28" 357cc*

Hey guys, got another LED install. 

This is my first snowblower I ever bought, a christmas gift for my dad in 09. I wasn't much of a snow blower connoisseur. 
But I knew i wanted a large machine with a big motor and this thing fit the bill. Ive used it more then he has over the years. Its been a good machine.

2009 28" MTD Gold w/ 357cc Powermore
Factory Headlight and Heated Handgrips.
Based on numbers the lighting coil is rated 30watts or greater. 

Fluke 365 Meter










Bridge Rectifier Assembly
8amp 50v full bridge rectifier
(1) 2200μF 25v capacitor

I kept it simple and small. I was shooting for a compact and clean setup.






























1683 Bulb 28watt(1.02amp) @ 28V

Stock Light
Loaded --- Volts --- Amps _____ Unloaded --- Volts --- Amps
Idle --- 12.5vac --- 0.7amps _____ Idle --- 12.7vac --- n/a
Full --- 19.0vac --- 0.8amps _____ Full --- 20.0vac --- n/a


18w LED 10-32volts 

-------- Volts --- Amps
Idle --- 13.9vdc --- 0.9amps
Full --- 22.3vdc --- 0.7amps


27w LED 10-32v

--------- Volts --- Amps
Idle --- 11.0vdc --- 1.8amps
Full --- 19.2vdc --- 1.5amps

I went with the 18w fixture, and omitted the factory light. Just don't need more then this one light, my parents driveway has decent lighting. Position was a tough call. I thought about the top of the auger housing but The EOD snow berm can get much taller then the bucket if its a big storm. Decided on the Factoryish spot.










I really liked the red down facing marker lights I put on my honda so I added one to the MTD. You can also see how well the rectifier box box is mounted. wedged in perfectly with just a single screw to secure in place.



















I got a couple other modifications to do to before I'm done with it.


----------



## jonnied12

My final O-scope reading are attached.
No Capacitor - Voltage swing 0 to 16 volts.
1 ea. 1000uF Capacitor - Voltage swing 7 to 15.7 volts.
1 ea. 2200uF Capacitors - Voltage swing 10 to 15.7 volts.
2 ea. 2200uF Capacitors - Voltage swing 14 to 15.7 volts.
Using 1 ea. 2200uF Cap. Flicker was noticeable at full speed. Very noticeable at idle.
Using 2 ea. 2200uF Caps. in parallel. There was no flicker at full speed. Very little flicker at idle.


I think you would be safe and not fry your LED light using 1 ea. 2200uF capacitor. I would not use anything less.
It appears that the two 2200uf Capacitors in parallel is the best option.


----------



## drmerdp

jonnied12 said:


> My final O-scope reading are attached.
> No Capacitor - Voltage swing 0 to 16 volts.
> 1 ea. 1000uF Capacitor - Voltage swing 7 to 15.7 volts.
> 1 ea. 2200uF Capacitors - Voltage swing 10 to 15.7 volts.
> 2 ea. 2200uF Capacitors - Voltage swing 14 to 15.7 volts.
> Using 1 ea. 2200uF Cap. Flicker was noticeable at full speed. Very noticeable at idle.
> Using 2 ea. 2200uF Caps. in parallel. There was no flicker at full speed. Very little flicker at idle.
> 
> 
> I think you would be safe and not fry your LED light using 1 ea. 2200uF capacitor. I would not use anything less.
> It appears that the two 2200uf Capacitors in parallel is the best option.


Nice, what wattage fixture did you test this with? 

I agree that (1) 2200uf capacitor is about all you need for 18-27watts lamps, I like (2) 2200uf capacitors with anymore of a wattage load.


----------



## jonnied12

drmerdp said:


> Nice, what wattage fixture did you test this with?
> 
> I agree that (1) 2200uf capacitor is about all you need for 18-27watts lamps, I like (2) 2200uf capacitors with anymore of a wattage load.


 I used my 18 watt LED because the original bulb was a 1141 18 watt incandescent bulb.


I also used the 2 2200uF caps.


----------



## drmerdp

Thanks for those scope readings!

On my next install I’ll see if I can squeeze 2 2200uf capacitors in that little box. Even though most LED fixtures are rated for 10-32v and the drop it landing at 10v it’s always better to air on the side of caution.


----------



## jonnied12

drmerdp said:


> Thanks for those scope readings!
> 
> On my next install I’ll see if I can squeeze 2 2200uf capacitors in that little box. Even though most LED fixtures are rated for 10-32v and the drop it landing at 10v it’s always better to air on the side of caution.


True, my LED fixture was an AutoZone rated 12 - 24V.
Now all I need to do is find a project box to tidy every thing up like you guys.:wink2:


----------



## alylea

Great thread on the topic.

Here is my take on converting to LED: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/cub-cadet-snowblowers/124129-led-project-30-3x-hd.html

Link to pre-assembled Bridge rectifier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SGMW4K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## drmerdp

My only qualm with that pre assembled bridge rectifier is does it have a capacitor build into it. I didn’t see anything about it I’m the description.

Jonied has shown the voltage drop between sine peaks can get lower then minimum voltage specs for the led. This could prematurely burn out the light.

Consensus seems like 1 2200uf capacitor good, 2 2200uf capacitors best.


----------



## celltech

I did the bridge rectifier with 2 cap's, switched on AC input and fused on the DC output. Works great!


----------



## alylea

Not sure on the caps but I asked the ? and I'll post the response.


----------



## Jason B

Is anyone here near Harrisburg, PA that might want to help me out with this mod?


----------



## alylea

*Bridge Rectifier with or without Capacitors? LED Damage?*



drmerdp said:


> My only qualm with that pre assembled bridge rectifier is does it have a capacitor build into it. I didn’t see anything about it I’m the description.
> 
> Jonied has shown the voltage drop between sine peaks can get lower then minimum voltage specs for the led. This could prematurely burn out the light.
> 
> Consensus seems like 1 2200uf capacitor good, 2 2200uf capacitors best.


So I reached out ot the guy who builds the Amazon device. Here is what he said.
-------------------------------------------------------------

Message from 3rd party seller:
Hi Xxxx,

The short answer is that this won't cause any appreciable degradation in reliability. 
Quick background so you don't think I am pulling this out of my butt.  My training is in 
integrated circuit design. Did that for 7 years down in Silicon Valley. Then moved on 
to designing telecommunication systems before jumping off and doing my own thing. So I 
am very familiar with this topic.

There is a minimum voltage required to turn on a LED, the foward bias voltage. The LED 
is ON when it has this voltage or higher. And it's off when doesn't have this voltage. 
There's also the concept of "reverse bias". LED is in "reverse bias" 
if it experiences negative voltage across the leads. Reverse biasing a LED, will cause 
damage. This is why you don't want to run an AC voltage on it. While the LED will turn 
on (during the positive cycle of the AC sinewave), its reliability suffers due to what is 
called junction breakdown. If it were made better (like a normal diode meant to experience 
this type of reverse biasing, such as those in a rectifier bridge), then the reliability 
won't suffer. But LED are not made to tolerate reverse bias. My experience is that 
these LED strips you find on Amazon die after about 300hr of operating on AC voltage (I 
only tried one such experiment so your mileage might vary a little).

Anyway. Back to the question at hand. A rectifier produces only positive voltages for 
the LED....that's the whole point. So no issue here with reverse biasing and such. 
Without the voltage smoothing capacitor, the LED will be OFF very briefly, at 60Hz, as 
the sinewave dips below the forward bias voltage. Search for "EDH Lighting" on 
youtube and you'll see my video about that. Your question really boils down to 
"Does rapidly turning on/off a LED damage it". The answer is no. Think about 
your computer. It's operating a GHz. The circuits inside the computer are turning on 
and off at GHz. No damage. It's just the nature of semiconductors...they are meant to 
operate like that. I've had these LED lights in my yard for over 2 years running off my 
device. No issues. 

That said, all LEDs do have a rated lifetime. I believe LED die generally due to a 
process called electromigration. This is where the metal inside the LED gets worn thin 
and eventually break just due to use (ie, having current running through those metal). 
Turning the circuit on/off quickly doesn't speed up this failure process. 

Hope that all makes sense.


----------



## drmerdp

lol that’s one heck of an answer. I trust that guy knows his stuff. But I think I’ll use a capacitor none the less.


----------



## alylea

Hey, America is the land of freedom, choice, and lots of opinions, and it seems that there are various opinions on this subject. I'll let you know if my light fails, but it worked fine last night for about 30 minutes. I will scream from the rooftops and warn everybody if it does and the failure is attributable to the lack of caps. In the meantime, add the caps. Insurance like that is cost effective and not difficult to deploy. Can't wait to see pictures.


----------



## jonnied12

alylea said:


> So I reached out ot the guy who builds the Amazon device. Here is what he said.
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message from 3rd party seller:
> Hi Xxxx,
> 
> The short answer is that this won't cause any appreciable degradation in reliability.
> Quick background so you don't think I am pulling this out of my butt.  My training is in
> integrated circuit design. Did that for 7 years down in Silicon Valley. Then moved on
> to designing telecommunication systems before jumping off and doing my own thing. So I
> am very familiar with this topic.
> 
> There is a minimum voltage required to turn on a LED, the foward bias voltage. The LED
> is ON when it has this voltage or higher. And it's off when doesn't have this voltage.
> There's also the concept of "reverse bias". LED is in "reverse bias"
> if it experiences negative voltage across the leads. Reverse biasing a LED, will cause
> damage. This is why you don't want to run an AC voltage on it. While the LED will turn
> on (during the positive cycle of the AC sinewave), its reliability suffers due to what is
> called junction breakdown. If it were made better (like a normal diode meant to experience
> this type of reverse biasing, such as those in a rectifier bridge), then the reliability
> won't suffer. But LED are not made to tolerate reverse bias. My experience is that
> these LED strips you find on Amazon die after about 300hr of operating on AC voltage (I
> only tried one such experiment so your mileage might vary a little).
> 
> Anyway. Back to the question at hand. A rectifier produces only positive voltages for
> the LED....that's the whole point. So no issue here with reverse biasing and such.
> Without the voltage smoothing capacitor, the LED will be OFF very briefly, at 60Hz, as
> the sinewave dips below the forward bias voltage. Search for "EDH Lighting" on
> youtube and you'll see my video about that. Your question really boils down to
> "Does rapidly turning on/off a LED damage it". The answer is no. Think about
> your computer. It's operating a GHz. The circuits inside the computer are turning on
> and off at GHz. No damage. It's just the nature of semiconductors...they are meant to
> operate like that. I've had these LED lights in my yard for over 2 years running off my
> device. No issues.
> 
> That said, all LEDs do have a rated lifetime. I believe LED die generally due to a
> process called electromigration. This is where the metal inside the LED gets worn thin
> and eventually break just due to use (ie, having current running through those metal).
> Turning the circuit on/off quickly doesn't speed up this failure process.
> 
> Hope that all makes sense.


Interesting information. I still believe in using smoothing caps though to cut down on the "flickering" effect.
Thanks for the post.


----------



## alylea

*Happy to Help*



Jason B said:


> Is anyone here near Harrisburg, PA that might want to help me out with this mod?



Hi Jason,

Happy to help you remotely. Skype and PM are goo things. Do you have ny sort of multi-meter?

Lyle


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

Ariens model 921018.

Bypassed the 20 watt halogen for now. 18 watt LED spot lights on the bucket. Raised up 4 inches with stainless bolts that hold the bucket weight in place. 4700uf 25 volt capacitor and bridge rectifier with fender washers as heat sinks in place. All works well, no flicker! Only small catch is angle of the bucket and limited adjustment of LED adjustment forces the beam to be slighly higher than level. No worries, you see farther away!

My next upgrade mod is to put a bigger stator in. I have two more 18 watt flood lights. I want to mount them on the cab somewhere if possible, or make a bracket.

Removing the flywheel nut is a sonuva bitch when you dont have an impact gun. Some propane torch heat, penetrating fluid, 5 pound sledge, and patience will prevail.

The original stator #797090 is a half moon shape, 5A max or 60 watts. I had the 20 watt halogen and the 40 watt heated hand grips. I scored an upgraded stator part#695466 for $12 bucks new off ebay...SCORE! Trouble now is the 2 extra studs are not tapped with threads. I need to find out what size the bolts are, and tap the studs appropriately.

To be continued. Will have info on bolt size and final setup soon.









Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## jonnied12

Cool, let us know how it works out.


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

Update.

The stator bolts are M4 x 20mm long with a 0.7 pitch. Threads are tapped and good to go!

Normally red/black indicate VDC, and two black wires are usually VAC. There are no diodes on the stator assembly so polarity in this case is irrelevant. After researching, it turns out that the black wire of the OEM stator is grounded to the frame thus why you have red and black even though it's AC. 

It's also a good thing that I check the stator because it seems that after 8 years it was ready to fail. Thankfully I can repair it.










Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## ParkPrince

*Use Solar LED Lights*

That is true. To expand the life of the LED lights, you need to care for them while using them. And what's more important is that your lights should be of high quality. Waterproof is a must for the lights as them are exposed to the snow and water. And as for work within yard, garden, waterproof *solar LED lights* are ideal. You don't need to install lights onto the snowblower or worry that they get damaged. Instead, you can install the *LED solar lights* high somewhere overhead and they can illuminate a wide range of area. The greatest advantage is they convert sunlight into current power, which cut down your budget on electricity bill.


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

Upgraded stator installed. No problems so far. Low idle is 15VAC volts, and high idle didn't measure yet. LEDs work now at low idle with no flicker when it didn't before. Had to give it some gas before the voltage was high enough to turn it on. One thing to note, wow those heated hand grips get hot FAST. Will have to check the voltage, make sure its not too high where it could burn it out. My other stator was visibly failing at the solder point, so maybe it wasn't passing enough power to fully heat the grips quick. It would also seem that the new stator which is isolated from the frame powers up fine. All my accessories like the grips and lights are all isolated from the frame electrically speaking. I suppose the 707090 had the setup on other machines where the light only had one wire going to it and its mounting bolt was the negative ground. 

Last thing is to mount the flood lights. Pics to follow!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## Pmason718

Hey not only am I new to the forum I'm new to snow lol. I have an Ariens Deluxe 24 that I just purchased and would like to do this mod. Where are you guys getting the little box from that you have the rectifier and Capacitor in? Also can you send me a link to the correct items to purchase for my particular snow blower.


----------



## Jason B

alylea said:


> Hi Jason,
> 
> Happy to help you remotely. Skype and PM are goo things. Do you have ny sort of multi-meter?
> 
> Lyle


Thanks @alylea - I do have skype.

A few years go I looked into adding a halogen light kit then gave up. I dug up my post and I do have this wire off the alternator, which I'm told id required.










From what I remember, I have about a 1amp stator, so two 10 watt LEDs or one 18 watt. I got some stuff at radio shack to do this, but that was years ago and I forget. I guess I'm just looking to do the easiest thing to get some lights at night. Now, there are some battery powered leds out there with incredible battery life too, but... but... I welcome any replies


----------



## marruda

*Where do I add a capacitor in LED light circuit?*

Hi, 

I have a Troy Bilt 5024 snow blower that did not come with a light. I would like to add a pair of 18W led lights using the red DC wire coming out of my stator. I wired up the lights and shortly after cranking the throttle up they are no longer working. I am guessing this is because the dirty output voltage exceeded 12V. I bought a new set of lights as well as a voltage regulator to keep a constant 12v. I also purchased two 1000uF 25V capacitors to add to the setup, but I'm not sure where they should be placed?

Below are the parts I am using:

LED Lights - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G620ZVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring Harness/Switch/Relay/Fuse - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZPX32N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Voltage Regulator - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C0KL1OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMWRUKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Below is a diagram of my setup without the capacitors:









Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike


----------



## JerryR

marruda said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have a Troy Bilt 5024 snow blower that did not come with a light. I would like to add a pair of 18W led lights using the red DC wire coming out of my stator. I wired up the lights and shortly after cranking the throttle up they are no longer working. I am guessing this is because the dirty output voltage exceeded 12V. I bought a new set of lights as well as a voltage regulator to keep a constant 12v. I also purchased two 1000uF 25V capacitors to add to the setup, but I'm not sure where they should be placed?
> 
> Below are the parts I am using:
> 
> LED Lights - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G620ZVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Wiring Harness/Switch/Relay/Fuse - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZPX32N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Voltage Regulator - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C0KL1OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Capacitors - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMWRUKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Below is a diagram of my setup without the capacitors:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike


To answer your question-the capacitors will go on the output of the regulator. you MUST observe the correct polarity. 
Capacitor plus(+) to the yellow wire, capacitor minus(-) to the black wire.
What is the purpose of the connection between the negative(black wires) input and output of the regulator, is that what you were instructed to do?(that connection is usually internal, Unless the regulator is used to isolate the input/output).
The diagram is a little confusing, Can you post the hookup instructions for the switch and the relay?
HTH
JerryR


----------



## marruda

Thanks @JerryR. 

I am not sure to be honest.. Do I need both the regulator and capacitor? I am just trying to wire some LED lights to my blower without blowing them up  

Here is the original wiring diagram:









-Mike


----------



## JerryR

marruda said:


> Thanks @JerryR.
> 
> I am not sure to be honest.. Do I need both the regulator and capacitor? I am just trying to wire some LED lights to my blower without blowing them up
> 
> Here is the original wiring diagram:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Mike


Hi Mike.
Whether you need a regulator AND capacitors depends on how good the regulator is, but I don't think adding the caps will do any harm.
As far as the diagram, I'm trying to figure out how it's wired but it is very confusing to me, since I can't tell which wire goes to what terminal to perform what function on the relay.
Did you get ANY instructions with that kit as to what wire does what? Can you read any terminal numbers on the relay?
The + and - wires to the relay, are they going to the relay coil if so that will keep the relay on all the time even when you are not using the lights?
what terminal on the relay is the switch wired to?
The switch seems to be a Single Pole Double Throw switch (SPDT) that, in your use would require only 2 wires rather than the 3 shown( it is shown as a polarity selector where the center pin will have either + or - depending on your selection- that is NOT what you need).
HTH
JerryR


----------



## marruda

Hi @JerryR - 

Forgive my ignorance. Unfortunately, the harness did not come with any additional information. 

Following the diagram, I plan on wiring the following:
1. The black wire coming off the relay to a ground screw on the snowblower.
2. The red wire coming off the fuse (under the relay in the diagram) to the yellow wire coming off the regulator.
3. The red wire coming off the switch to the yellow wire coming off the regulator.
4. The black wire coming off the switch to a ground screw on the snowblower.

I just want to double check that this sounds good before I go ahead and proceed.










Thanks,
Mike


----------



## marruda

I just added the regulator in and I think I fried it... I am no longer getting any output on my multimeter. When I remove the regulator, I get the 12-16 V DC OUT. I'm not sure what else to do here... I just wanted to add some LED lights to my snow blower, but this has turned out to be a lot more complicated that I expected.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,
Mike


----------



## JerryR

marruda said:


> I just added the regulator in and I think I fried it... I am no longer getting any output on my multimeter. When I remove the regulator, I get the 12-16 V DC OUT. I'm not sure what else to do here... I just wanted to add some LED lights to my snow blower, but this has turned out to be a lot more complicated that I expected.
> 
> Any suggestions are welcome.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike


Mike.
Sorry to hear about the regulator, and it should not be that complicated.
Few possibilities come to mind.
1. The DC output may have AC and/or spikes riding on it. If you have an AC range on your multimeter you might check for AC but you won't be able to measure spikes with a meter - I seem to remember that in your first post you said that you hooked up the LEDs and that they blew, spikes could do that.
BTW I went to this site: https://nilight.com/products/niligh...-for-suv-boat-4-jeep-lamp?variant=25001464713.
I believe these are your LEDs and they are rated at least to 24V so if you are reading 12-16V DC The LEDs should be able to handle it.

2. You exceeded the current rating and the regulator and the Over Current Protection shut it down, after the unit cooled down try it again without a load.

As to your proposed wiring shown in the post prior to this one (the 2 red hand-drawn wires) I don't know what to tell you, I have no idea how that relay is prewired- are you sure that you cannot read any pin numbers on the relay?, is the relay by any chance plugged into the wiring harness?(the Mfr. lit. shows it plugged in).

Do you have a 12v battery - substitute it for the stator output, but be careful. Hook the battery negative and than momentarily touch the positive 
HTH
JerryR


----------



## marruda

*LED lights successfully installed on Troy Bilt 5024 Snowblower!*

I finally got it working! I ditched the harness and red wire coming off the stator that is supposed to be DC and instead went with the yellow AC wire and a bridge rectifier that everyone else on this forum appears to have used.

My final parts list was:

(1) 5 amp inline fuse - 16 gauge
(1) full wave bridge rectifier
(2) 2200 uF 50 V capacitors
(1) SPST toggle switch
(2) 18W Cree LED lights
16 gauge primary wire (red and black)
Electrical connectors and heat shrink tubing

Below is my final wiring diagram I followed. I might add another fuse between the bridge rectifier and LED's in the future.










And the finished product...
























Special thanks to @JerryR and @MnP40C for their help and guidance!

-Mike


----------



## jonnied12

I'm glad to see you finally saw the light. There may be AC riding on the DC side of the alternator. I know they do not use a full wave rectifier for the DC on these. only a half-wave if anything. I may hook up the O-Scope to find out
I would be concerned about overloading the AC side with two 18 watt lights though.


----------



## FractalJedi

Okay my main question with the attached picture is if I did the capacitors correctly? Could this be simplified? Basically it's trying to mimic the same layout as SuperEdge88/MnP40c including a rocker switch to turn lights on manually. Any ideas welcome. If it can be simplified, could you (using a different color for wiring diagram) show me how I might do it different? The 528swe is a Cub Cadet 2 stage 28" similar to the Ariens but from 2011. 

Thank you, Happy Holidays.


----------



## JerryR

FractalJedi said:


> Okay my main question with the attached picture is if I did the capacitors correctly? Could this be simplified? Basically it's trying to mimic the same layout as SuperEdge88/MnP40c including a rocker switch to turn lights on manually. Any ideas welcome. If it can be simplified, could you (using a different color for wiring diagram) show me how I might do it different? The 528swe is a Cub Cadet 2 stage 28" similar to the Ariens but from 2011.
> 
> Thank you, Happy Holidays.


My preference would be to put the capacitors at the output of the rectifier and before the switch, rather than at the lights.
Why 4 capacitors? I think 2 would be enough.
Does your switch supposed to light up when you turn the lights on?. 
HTH
JerryR


----------



## FractalJedi

Hi JerryR,
Thank you so much, I completely understand what you're suggesting here. I had four capactors mainly because it was two per LED. Your way will still work since it's before the split. Yes, there is a small blue LED light on the rocker switch. I'm assuming that grounding still occurs at the AC- and not the (-) at the switch? 

Happy Holidays.


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

Bassguitarist1985 said:


> Upgraded stator installed. No problems so far. Low idle is 15VAC volts, and high idle didn't measure yet. LEDs work now at low idle with no flicker when it didn't before. Had to give it some gas before the voltage was high enough to turn it on. One thing to note, wow those heated hand grips get hot FAST. Will have to check the voltage, make sure its not too high where it could burn it out. My other stator was visibly failing at the solder point, so maybe it wasn't passing enough power to fully heat the grips quick. It would also seem that the new stator which is isolated from the frame powers up fine. All my accessories like the grips and lights are all isolated from the frame electrically speaking. I suppose the 707090 had the setup on other machines where the light only had one wire going to it and its mounting bolt was the negative ground.
> 
> Last thing is to mount the flood lights. Pics to follow!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Two floods on top, two spots on the auger housing. Some serious zombie lighting! I still have to paint the wood black so it blends in. Attached to the frame of the cab using 1/2" hose clamps. Its light in weight, simple, and effective.

*** Low idle at the BR was 15VDC, but at full speed, voltage is 36VDC! I have the 695466 stator. This explains why the heated hand grips got nuclear hot! The LEDs seem fine, but it is beyond the 30VDC they were rated for. Long term 36VDC may burn them out. Need to put a regulator on it. Also did not need to change the molex connector from a male to female connector, thankfully I have the original connector ill resolder it back together.

This stator was meant to have a voltage regulator rectifier paired with it, namly part# 691185. It takes the ~40VAC from the stator and keeps a steady 14.4 volts DC. I've ordered it and will update everyone once it is retrofitted. 










Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## JerryR

FractalJedi said:


> Hi JerryR,
> Thank you so much, I completely understand what you're suggesting here. I had four capactors mainly because it was two per LED. Your way will still work since it's before the split. Yes, there is a small blue LED light on the rocker switch. I'm assuming that grounding still occurs at the AC- and not the (-) at the switch?
> 
> Happy Holidays.


Do you have ONLY one wire (the one you show going to the fuse) coming out of the stator?, If so than you have the rectifier wired correctly.
I don't know the specs for the switch (did you get any info or wiring instructions for it?) but my **guess** is that the negative (-) terminal on the switch is the negative connection for the built-in blue LED, and should be connected to the negative DC output of the rectifier.
I don't know is if there is also a built-in resistor for the LED inside the switch, the size of that resistor is important and is determined by the voltage applied to the positive terminal of the switch and the Max current rating of the built-in LED - so you also need to know what is the voltage going to your switch when the machine operates.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## Money_man

There's a ton of information here. My biggest question is where is the best location for the light(s)? I was thinking of getting a 6" long 18w led light and mounting it directly to the auger housing like the cub cadet. Is there any reason that two lights by controls would be a better option? Trying to plan this out before I order anything.


----------



## alylea

Money_man said:


> There's a ton of information here. My biggest question is where is the best location for the light(s)? I was thinking of getting a 6" long 18w led light and mounting it directly to the auger housing like the cub cadet. Is there any reason that two lights by controls would be a better option? Trying to plan this out before I order anything.


Speaking of Cub Cadet's... Mine is a 3x 30 HD. I have a 8" 36 watt LED mounted on the top of the chute. I chose this configuration to keep the beam low. There will be times when when you use the machine and it's snowing heavily. Having lights up high has the potential of increased glare and reflection, resulting in decreased visibility. I didn't bother with a switch due to the extremely long life of LED's. I also replaced the stock bulb with an LED, doubled the lumen output. I could have gone with a higher wattage but was concerned about heat output and possible damage to the reflector and lens. I also chose not to add a switch anywhere because adding a switch also creates an additional point of failure. 

What brand/model blower do you have?


----------



## Money_man

I have a John deere 1130se


----------



## alylea

Money_man said:


> I have a John deere 1130se


Nice machine. I think the JD is DC output, correct? If so, changing/adding lighting is a snap. CC has AC output that requires conversion to DC.


----------



## Money_man

alylea said:


> Money_man said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a John deere 1130se
> 
> 
> 
> Nice machine. I think the JD is DC output, correct? If so, changing/adding lighting is a snap. CC has AC output that requires conversion to DC.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure yet. Havent checked and the john Deere section doesnt seem that busy. Also online technical info about these don't seem that plentiful.


----------



## Money_man

So found my unit's engine model number. Still having a hard time figuring out what amperage it gives and if it's a.c. or dc. 

21m214-0117e1

EDIT - so checked, straight power from the stator is 31.7VAC however at my headlight it's 14.4VDC. It's a 20w bulb as well.


----------



## snow-shovel

Does your John Deere have electric start with a battery? If not, there is likely no reason for it to be DC.


----------



## Money_man

snow-shovel said:


> Does your John Deere have electric start with a battery? If not, there is likely no reason for it to be DC.


 nope no electric start. Seems they possibly put a diode in from factory. It's definitely DC at the headlight.


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

Bassguitarist1985 said:


> Two floods on top, two spots on the auger housing. Some serious zombie lighting! I still have to paint the wood black so it blends in. Attached to the frame of the cab using 1/2" hose clamps. Its light in weight, simple, and effective.
> 
> *** Low idle at the BR was 15VDC, but at full speed, voltage is 36VDC! I have the 695466 stator. This explains why the heated hand grips got nuclear hot! The LEDs seem fine, but it is beyond the 30VDC they were rated for. Long term 36VDC may burn them out. Need to put a regulator on it. Also did not need to change the molex connector from a male to female connector, thankfully I have the original connector ill resolder it back together.
> 
> This stator was meant to have a voltage regulator rectifier paired with it, namly part# 691185. It takes the ~40VAC from the stator and keeps a steady 14.4 volts DC. I've ordered it and will update everyone once it is retrofitted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


All,

Connecticut is experiencing its first blizzard of the year! Thankfully the equipment is ready! Generator too, dealing with 50mph gusts that could knock out power.

Wanted to follow up and confirm that the regulator part #691185 fixed my overvoltage issue. I have the video nearly edited down to detail my build.

The only issue with the regulator is that you DO need a battery to turn it on initially. It needs a voltage source to regulate from. I did leave the 50v 4700uF cap in parallel with the LED even though the regulator outputs DC. After initially using battery power, the regulator will power all the lights and heated grips on its own using the capacitor as a voltage source in place of the battery.

All final details can be found here in more succinct detail. http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...921018-2011-revision-stator-upgrade-leds.html

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## Jason B

Has anyone just done battery powered leds? I know they've come a long way. Just for those that don't want to get into all the hardwiring, is anything actually decent?


----------



## Money_man

So just found out my alternator seems to be a 9A alternator. This makes sense since I have the electric chute and heated grips. Now I need to figure out how much the grips draw and how much the chute draws and I can figure out how big of an LED light i can use. Hoping to use the light i have that was given to me.


----------



## Money_man

Mounted my light, removed the original housing and mount and this popped right in. Looks great, need it to get dark so I can see how bright it is.


----------



## Money_man

Little day time of light on. Not sure how many watts but it looks to be bright. It's-25°c with the windchill so probably not trying it tonight.


----------



## JamesHenry

Hi all, new here. I read through some of this thread, I don't know which end is up. Very very confusing. I'm wondering what parts I'd need for my Ariens 921044 Deluxe 28 SHO 28 to just put a couple LED's on it. Have dremel and all sorts of tools. I just don't know what is needed. My unit does have the halogen light (useless - not sure why they even include one) and has electric start, but no hand warmers.


----------



## Money_man

JamesHenry said:


> Hi all, new here. I read through some of this thread, I don't know which end is up. Very very confusing. I'm wondering what parts I'd need for my Ariens 921044 Deluxe 28 SHO 28 to just put a couple LED's on it. Have dremel and all sorts of tools. I just don't know what is needed. My unit does have the halogen light (useless - not sure why they even include one) and has electric start, but no hand warmers.


I'd just go see what you have at the headlight, AC or DC. Most said I should have AC there but I actually have DC. That will let you know if you need a full wave rectifier and possibly a capacitor or if you just need to wire in an LED light like I did.


----------



## JamesHenry

Can anyone else confirm about the AC or DC at the light? I can't find my multimeter. 
Here's my list. Any suggestions before I buy?

I watched this video and the guy is using the rectifier. Video is from 11/17 and he's got the same machine.


----------



## Money_man

JamesHenry said:


> Can anyone else confirm about the AC or DC at the light? I can't find my **** multimeter.
> Here's my list. Any suggestions before I buy?


Looks like a good list. Just need to find out about that a.c. or dc. Also how many watts is your current bulb.


----------



## JamesHenry




----------



## JamesHenry

So the bulb says 20W but the lights I'm ordering are 18W each x 2 = 36W. 
I'm wondering if there's going to be enough output to power these 2 lights. I know the 20W on the bulb isn't an accurate representation of the output from the snowblower. Without my multimeter I'm SOL. 

Anybody else?


----------



## jonnied12

Money_man said:


> Little day time of light on. Not sure how many watts but it looks to be bright. It's-25°c with the windchill so probably not trying it tonight.


 9x3=27 watts. Most LED's are 3 watts per LED.


----------



## Coby7

JamesHenry said:


> So the bulb says 20W but the lights I'm ordering are 18W each x 2 = 36W.
> I'm wondering if there's going to be enough output to power these 2 lights. I know the 20W on the bulb isn't an accurate representation of the output from the snowblower. Without my multimeter I'm SOL.
> 
> Anybody else?


Wire one up and fire it up full throttle and measure the voltage, if you're strongly above 12 volts the try the other one if you're still above 12 volts your good to go.


----------



## Money_man

Coby7 said:


> JamesHenry said:
> 
> 
> 
> So the bulb says 20W but the lights I'm ordering are 18W each x 2 = 36W.
> I'm wondering if there's going to be enough output to power these 2 lights. I know the 20W on the bulb isn't an accurate representation of the output from the snowblower. Without my multimeter I'm SOL.
> 
> Anybody else?
> 
> 
> 
> Wire one up and fire it up full throttle and measure the voltage, if you're strongly above 12 volts the try the other one if you're still above 12 volts your good to go.
Click to expand...

Take coby's advice as the word of God. He knows his stuff. This is exactly how I judged if my light is ok.


----------



## JerryR

JamesHenry said:


> Hi all, new here. I read through some of this thread, I don't know which end is up. Very very confusing. I'm wondering what parts I'd need for my Ariens 921044 Deluxe 28 SHO 28 to just put a couple LED's on it. Have dremel and all sorts of tools. I just don't know what is needed. My unit does have the halogen light (useless - not sure why they even include one) and has electric start, but no hand warmers.


Here are my 2 cents on the subject.
Your ariens 921044 is equipped (Like many other Ariens) with a 60 Watt Stator (the output is AC), this is enough to power your 20W built-in halogen AND the heated grips that Ariens offers on some models (they also offer it as a DIY option).
Since you have no hand warmers you have AT LEAST 40W to work with, that you could use for LEDs.
If you unplug your halogen lamp you will have the full 60W available.
I don't know how much headroom there is IF you decide to add the optional hand warmers.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## JamesHenry

Is there any issue with just hooking up the lights and just seeing if they work. I don't even know how to use my multimeter besides testing out batteries. I would need to know how to do this.


----------



## JerryR

JamesHenry said:


> Is there any issue with just hooking up the lights and just seeing if they work. I don't even know how to use my multimeter besides testing out batteries. I would need to know how to do this.


Using your multimeter to measure voltages is not much different then checking batteries, what kind of multimeter do you have?
Your ariens outputs AC voltage. LEDs require DC.
While an **regular** stand alone LED **might**?? work on AC when the AC is at it's positive period , you also stand a chance blowing the LED during the AC negative period.
The LEDs that most people use are not JUST LEDs they have a driver/power supply included, I don't know how they tolerate AC.
I've read some posts where the people did connect the LEDs to the AC out of the stator, but got a lot of flicker.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## JamesHenry

Yeah I meant when I had it hooked up to the bridge Rectifier. I have a full parts list a few posts above.


----------



## JerryR

JamesHenry said:


> Yeah I meant when I had it hooked up to the bridge Rectifier. I have a full parts list a few posts above.



You should be aware that the output voltage of your bridge rectifier is a pulsating DC (not pure DC) I don't see any capacitors(used to smooth/filter the AC component) in the part list you posted, so I'm guessing you are not using any.
Doing this, some people reported blowing their LEDs (I don't know if that was the real reason), and some reported no damage, this could also result in flicker.
Why not use your multimeter to measure the voltage(both DC and AC) at the output of the bridge rectifier BEFORE you hook up the lights?.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## JamesHenry

Hi Jerry, the main issue is this. I don't have a proper procedure for all of this. If I did, I would have no problem doing it. I can install capacitors, but I have no idea what I need and where they need to go. If I decide to go and do this (which is unlikely at this point) I will use the multimeter as you suggested.


----------



## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> Take coby's advice as the word of God. He knows his stuff. This is exactly how I judged if my light is ok.


Did you end up going with a 36W LED? I am thinking of changing my halogen out for a 36W. Good to hear it's DC at the light, I had my suspicions that it was, but never actually measured it. I suspect because of the electric chute motor, they rectify it to DC.


----------



## jonnied12

NorthMaine said:


> Did you end up going with a 36W LED? I am thinking of changing my halogen out for a 36W. Good to hear it's DC at the light, I had my suspicions that it was, but never actually measured it. I suspect because of the electric chute motor, they rectify it to DC.


 The DC is most likely half wave DC.


----------



## Money_man

NorthMaine said:


> Money_man said:
> 
> 
> 
> Take coby's advice as the word of God. He knows his stuff. This is exactly how I judged if my light is ok.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you end up going with a 36W LED? I am thinking of changing my halogen out for a 36W. Good to hear it's DC at the light, I had my suspicions that it was, but never actually measured it. I suspect because of the electric chute motor, they rectify it to DC.
Click to expand...

To be honest I don't know because there's no markings on the light at all. Haven't even tried it in the dark yet. 

As for full wave or half wave, I'm not 100% I do know it doesn't flicker at all, looks like it came that way from the factory.


----------



## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> To be honest I don't know because there's no markings on the light at all. Haven't even tried it in the dark yet.
> 
> As for full wave or half wave, I'm not 100% I do know it doesn't flicker at all, looks like it came that way from the factory.


I just ordered a 36w 6.5" LED light bar to swap out the halogen light. We'll see how it goes. If it doesn't work, I'll just return it and stick with the halogen.


----------



## rm9x

*Ariens 926LE bulb replacement*

Hi - I have a Ariens 926LE with the built in head light assembly in the front panel. The bulb assembly is a halogen bulb permanently mounted on 90 degree angle base. The only markings on the bulb assembly are 12V 20W. Is there a LED replacement for this bulb assembly with higher lumens? I'm not interested in adding additional lights to the snowblower at this time; just convert the stock headlight. There are no hand warmers installed. Thanks.


----------



## MTD Pro

*No rectifier, no capacitor, no problem!*

Hello All. I’ve been lurking for about 2 weeks and have read this entire thread, some of it multiple times. I’ve gone from intrigued to confused and back again about 57 times. Then I decided to give it a whirl and hook up a large LED where the old halogen was and two 6” spot light bars on the front. I have a MTD Pro 28”, from about 2012. Since I didn’t have any of the things I needed on hand, I went ahead and ordered the LEDs (several types), bunch of wire, loom, all sorts of connectors, a switch, in-line fuse kit, cable clips, rectifier, capacitor and more. Then, since the first light I bought was 48W, 2900 lumen monster, I decided to order another set of smaller 18W because I was afraid I’d blow up the machine. 

So I read and I read and I read…I drew my own schematics to try and get a handle on what I was about to do and decided to first – after 2 weeks of this craziness – to mount the 6” bars on the front. I ran into an immediate problem. The space to affix the tiny bolt to the tiny screw was so incredibly small, that I would have to use a surgical device to mount it! I was so frustrated because after all this time of worrying about the amperage capacity, wattage capacity, where to ground it, where to add fuses, how to property connect the rectifier and capacitor, blah blah blah…I was stymied by the very first step I took, which should be the easiest step by far! 

So I said, screw this. Since I had seen one or two questions here asking whether people had electric start (which I have), although there was dissension about how much that small battery would help, I already had mounted the 48W on the same mount that the old halogen was on and said, “I’m just hooking this **** thing up straight and see what happens”. No additional fuse, no rectifier, no capacitor, nothing! Simply connected the two wires from the stator to the light and held my breath. 

It worked like a charm! No flickering, no problem. This video is taken while running only at half idle and still no flicker at all. 6KLED 448 Heavy Duty Floodlight from Amazon. 

So while I considered hooking up the smaller ones to the front…I’m done! Lol Sending back all of the other stuff I ordered.:smile_big:

https://vimeo.com/250635330


----------



## jonnied12

rm9x said:


> Hi - I have a Ariens 926LE with the built in head light assembly in the front panel. The bulb assembly is a halogen bulb permanently mounted on 90 degree angle base. The only markings on the bulb assembly are 12V 20W. Is there a LED replacement for this bulb assembly with higher lumens? I'm not interested in adding additional lights to the snowblower at this time; just convert the stock headlight. There are no hand warmers installed. Thanks.


 Auto parts stores carry LED replacement bulbs for changing over from halogen or incandescent type bulbs.
Take your socket and bulb and see if they have a retrofit.


----------



## AndyB123

JamesHenry said:


> Hi Jerry, the main issue is this. I don't have a proper procedure for all of this. If I did, I would have no problem doing it. I can install capacitors, but I have no idea what I need and where they need to go. If I decide to go and do this (which is unlikely at this point) I will use the multimeter as you suggested.


JamesHenry, It's not difficult at all. I just did my Ariens Platinum 24 recently. Here are a couple of YouTube links showing how. The only thing missing is capacitors. What you do is connect them across the DC negative and DC positive coming out of the full wave bridge rectifier, note the polarity. If you use more than one capacitor connect them in parralel. 














I used 2 12watt LEDs floodlights I got off eBay. Easily enough light. Similar to this: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAR-LED-Wo...ash=item3d54533138:g:~n8AAOSwi8xaRGjq&vxp=mtr

I used these to mount to the snowblower, no drilling required.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753YM3VX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Coby7

If the light says the input voltage is 9 volts to 32 volts you don't need a capacitor because the LED light has a DC to DC converter to keep voltage steady at the LEDs ( No flicker ).


----------



## NorthMaine

Installed the light today. All is great, no modifications required for a JD 1130SE. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Money_man

NorthMaine said:


> Installed the light today. All is great, no modifications required for a JD 1130SE.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nice man!!! Any pictures? Did you use the factory location?


----------



## drmerdp

How do you like the light output of those 12 watt pod lights? I’ve been looking for something 
Smaller then the usually 18watt pods.


----------



## drmerdp

Coby7 said:


> If the light says the input voltage is 9 volts to 32 volts you don't need a capacitor because the LED light has a DC to DC converter to keep voltage steady at the LEDs ( No flicker ).


The listing does not list ac or dc use, just voltage range. The 9-32v doesn’t change how LEDs flicker on ac voltage.


----------



## Money_man

drmerdp said:


> Coby7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If the light says the input voltage is 9 volts to 32 volts you don't need a capacitor because the LED light has a DC to DC converter to keep voltage steady at the LEDs ( No flicker ).
> 
> 
> 
> The listing does not list ac or dc use, just voltage range. The 9-32v doesn’t change how LEDs flicker on ac voltage.
Click to expand...

He was assuming you have already gotten dc to your light I'm pretty sure.


----------



## drmerdp

Yup, DC converter is mentioned. My Bad.

A bridge rectifier does most the work, but its best to use atleast a 1 2200uf capacitor for smoothening. A bridge recifier along eliminates 80 percent of the flicker.

I now use 2 2200uf capacitors on all LED installs I do.


----------



## Coby7

drmerdp said:


> The listing does not list ac or dc use, just voltage range. The 9-32v doesn’t change how LEDs flicker on ac voltage.


Well when an LED light has a DC-DC converter it don't care if the DC is half wave or full wave it puts out regulated 12volt DC to the LEDs. Provided the magneto generator can produce enough current of course.


----------



## AndyB123

drmerdp said:


> How do you like the light output of those 12 watt pod lights? I’ve been looking for something
> Smaller then the usually 18watt pods.


I have a roughly 20’ by 50' driveway and the pair of 12watt floodlights light it up nice and bright.


----------



## Mike247365

Nice post Superedge. 
I have a Troy-bilt 2625. 
I disconnected the existing halogen light at the socket to have two female spade connectors. Fired it up. Checked the voltage. it was reading 11.7VAC. If I converted it to DC I could use automotive bar lights within (amperage draw) reason. 
I bought a 1X 120W 24" single row led light at eBay from autosaver88. $25.99. This arrived in three days. It was super rugged. Aluminum cast frame. It adds about 3 lbs of weight down on the intake...which will help keeping the bottom blade down on the pavement.

I ordered the electronics parts at Jameco.com and arrived in three days with normal postage.
50V Bridge rectifier. Full Wave
2 - 2200 mfd 35v
I bought a rocker switch and a fuse holder but thought. My halogen does not have a switch nor fuse. I can add these easily later. They arrived within 24 hours of one another.

Meanwhile...while the temperature went up to 60 degrees conveniently on installation day. (all the snow...gone)

As it turns out the connectors to the halogen light socket fit the flat blade pins on the rectifier. Except the red colored smaller connector. I had to file one side of the rectifier connector blade pin so the other wire could press onto the rectifier pin.

I mounted the 24" bar light on top of the 26" snow intake. One hole drilled for each mounting bracket. 

Soldered in 4.5' of two conductor wire to the light. 
At the rectifier. I twisted the negatives of the capacitors to the negative wire running to the light. Soldered the three together.
I twisted the positive leads of the caps to the positive light lead and soldered those together. the positives and negatives are now roughly the distance between the rectifier posts. I just took a blade socket (female) crimp fitting from O'Reilly Automotive and crimped it on each of the 3 soldered wires. I pressed the positive on the positive lead on the rectifier. Negative to negative.

I used a 1-1/2" 1/4x20 bolt through the middle hole in the rectifier and some fender washers (as an added heat sink) to mount the whole package under the black plastic housing next to the existing decommissioned halogen light. I had to drill a 1/4" hole in the plastic.

I encased the wire in 5' of 5/8" plastic conduit (from O'Reilly) from the light bar to the engine and up the handle to under the control panel taking care not to interfere with the control cable for the transmission. I used tywrap hold down squares to hold the conduit/wire harness to the blower housing. Tywraps up the handle.

Fired it up. Works awesome. Only a little flickering as the motor reaches zero rpm.

I had to loosen the adjustment bolt and tilt it down because this thing lights up the whole driveway and yard. 8 LEDs on each end are flood reflected the middle 8 LEDs are spot lights.

As I was testing and taking pics the temp dipped below freezing. In 12 hours it dipped to 8 degrees and 3" of lake effect snow...not enough to blow.

With the old halogen light i always worried that i could not be seen by drivers as I clear near the entrance of my drive on a rural road. I also use tinted ski goggles for night skiing and had a little trouble seeing with the existing halogen. Not a chance now.


----------



## Coby7

What kind of voltage did you end up with at the light. 120 Watts is a large load for a magneto unless it was designed for warmers.


----------



## drmerdp

Careful with your voltage, especial at idle. If the volts drop below the operating spec of the light, it will likely burn out the lamp.


----------



## Mike247365

Coby7 said:


> What kind of voltage did you end up with at the light. 120 Watts is a large load for a magneto unless it was designed for warmers.


11.7 VAC into the rectifier.
10.35-10.4 VDC out at the light under load.
The light is rated for 10-30 VDC.


----------



## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> Nice man!!! Any pictures? Did you use the factory location?













I wish I could have mounted it with the cord down but the bracket on the light didn’t allow for it...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Coby7

Mike247365 said:


> I bought a 1X 120W 24" single row led light at eBay from autosaver88. $25.99.


Do you have the ebay listing?


----------



## Coby7

Mike247365 said:


> 11.7 VAC into the rectifier.
> 10.35-10.4 VDC out at the light under load.
> The light is rated for 10-30 VDC.


120 Watts divided by 10.4 volts equals 11.54 amps, that's a lot of current to suck from the magneto coil generator, I wouldn't be worried about the light but I'd worry about the magneto coil wiring if it wasn't designed for pushing out that much current. Rule of thumb is if the voltage falls below 12 volts DC at full throttle your pushing the circuit pass it's design.


----------



## drmerdp

Frankly, I’m surprised it’s holding that many Volts at that amount of load. 

That’s pushing it. 

I would go to a lower wattage light.


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

Mike247365 said:


> Nice post Superedge.
> I have a Troy-bilt 2625.
> I disconnected the existing halogen light at the socket to have two female spade connectors. Fired it up. Checked the voltage. it was reading 11.7VAC. If I converted it to DC I could use automotive bar lights within (amperage draw) reason.
> I bought a 1X 120W 24" single row led light at eBay from autosaver88. $25.99. This arrived in three days. It was super rugged. Aluminum cast frame. It adds about 3 lbs of weight down on the intake...which will help keeping the bottom blade down on the pavement.
> 
> I ordered the electronics parts at Jameco.com and arrived in three days with normal postage.
> 50V Bridge rectifier. Full Wave
> 2 - 2200 mfd 35v
> I bought a rocker switch and a fuse holder but thought. My halogen does not have a switch nor fuse. I can add these easily later. They arrived within 24 hours of one another.
> 
> Meanwhile...while the temperature went up to 60 degrees conveniently on installation day. (all the snow...gone)
> 
> As it turns out the connectors to the halogen light socket fit the flat blade pins on the rectifier. Except the red colored smaller connector. I had to file one side of the rectifier connector blade pin so the other wire could press onto the rectifier pin.
> 
> I mounted the 24" bar light on top of the 26" snow intake. One hole drilled for each mounting bracket.
> 
> Soldered in 4.5' of two conductor wire to the light.
> At the rectifier. I twisted the negatives of the capacitors to the negative wire running to the light. Soldered the three together.
> I twisted the positive leads of the caps to the positive light lead and soldered those together. the positives and negatives are now roughly the distance between the rectifier posts. I just took a blade socket (female) crimp fitting from O'Reilly Automotive and crimped it on each of the 3 soldered wires. I pressed the positive on the positive lead on the rectifier. Negative to negative.
> 
> I used a 1-1/2" 1/4x20 bolt through the middle hole in the rectifier and some fender washers (as an added heat sink) to mount the whole package under the black plastic housing next to the existing decommissioned halogen light. I had to drill a 1/4" hole in the plastic.
> 
> I encased the wire in 5' of 5/8" plastic conduit (from O'Reilly) from the light bar to the engine and up the handle to under the control panel taking care not to interfere with the control cable for the transmission. I used tywrap hold down squares to hold the conduit/wire harness to the blower housing. Tywraps up the handle.
> 
> Fired it up. Works awesome. Only a little flickering as the motor reaches zero rpm.
> 
> I had to loosen the adjustment bolt and tilt it down because this thing lights up the whole driveway and yard. 8 LEDs on each end are flood reflected the middle 8 LEDs are spot lights.
> 
> As I was testing and taking pics the temp dipped below freezing. In 12 hours it dipped to 8 degrees and 3" of lake effect snow...not enough to blow.
> 
> With the old halogen light i always worried that i could not be seen by drivers as I clear near the entrance of my drive on a rural road. I also use tinted ski goggles for night skiing and had a little trouble seeing with the existing halogen. Not a chance now.


Either there is a 5 amp half moon or a 10A full round stator with an external voltage regulator. If a snowblower had the 16 amp stator I'd be shocked. My John deere GT225 has a 16A.

Bottom line. Too big a load, go to a lower wattage light

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## Mike247365

The model I have has the heated handgrip option that I didn't get. 

One hand is on the right handle/drive lever. The blower is engaged via the left lever and locked via the drive lever interlock. My left hand is on the pistol grip to angle the chute as I turn. What good is the left handgrip heater? If it's -10F and I'm snow blowing and theres no wind. No heater required. If its -10F and there's 20mph winds. I won't be snow blowing until the lake effect fluffy stuff stops drifting.

Thinking about the electrics. 
Logically thinking.... it is drawing as much as those 24, 5W (maximum i presume) LEDs put out. 
Most electrics that specify a voltage range. If it's not enough it won't work. If its too much it will blow. If you reverse bias an LED like any diode. it will fail. So a rectifier is a good and logical idea that Tesla would most likely approve of. 

Honestly, Just because it has the capacity of 120W that it is actually putting out 120W and drawing 11.54 amps? 

So...Off to the barn with my clamp on ammeter. I put the clamp on meter on the one lead going to the rectifier. 

It's putting out/drawing 4.1Amps.

On the other post about being careful that the LEDs would blow at idle ... I went to idle many times. The LEDs dim to 40-50% (and have a slight flicker) (i don't have a lumens meter). They dim and bright with RPM. 

Now if I make that graphine super capacitor (youTube link) it might just remain lit for several minutes after shutdown to get out of my barn with a little light and further dampen the AC ripple on the DC. 

The eBay number is on my email receipt is 301673889220 but when I put that number in it gives me a 36W 2 led high, 6 led long rectangular lamp. . 1x 120W 24" Single Row LED Light Bar 4WD SUV.... $25.99 free shipping! sold by autosaver88 (150847)

Since I'm a NEWB I'm not sure what app I need to apply to make photos happen. 

Believe me...It's cool looking!


----------



## Coby7

Mike247365 said:


> Honestly, Just because it has the capacity of 120W that it is actually putting out 120W and drawing 11.54 amps?


 Well the way it is designed it will always put out maximum light provided the input voltage is above minimum specification. 


Mike247365 said:


> So...Off to the barn with my clamp on ammeter. I put the clamp on meter on the one lead going to the rectifier.
> 
> It's putting out/drawing 4.1Amps.


That's only 36 Watts. The reason I was asking about the ebay listing is often they write in the description 120 Watts but what they really mean is it puts out the equivalent of a 120 Watt halogen. Seeing the description would help. Your best test would be to put the light on a battery and measure DC volts and DC current. That would not lie.



Mike247365 said:


> Since I'm a NEWB I'm not sure what app I need to apply to make photos happen.
> 
> Believe me...It's cool looking!


 I use Igmur


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

^^^I've had these same thoughts exactly looking at how wild some are getting with their light setups. Taxing some of these small electrical systems WAY beyond their design capacity imo.

Overkill is only good when it doesn't... overkill.


----------



## Money_man

NorthMaine said:


> Money_man said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice man!!! Any pictures? Did you use the factory location?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could have mounted it with the cord down but the bracket on the light didn’t allow for it...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Still looks good. And with snow flying 40ft high and wind blowing, who's going to notice the cord. Any night shots?


----------



## Mike247365

I looked at a heated handgrip upgrade for my Troybilt 2625. The two handgrips have a 7.5A fuse. I'm figuring they must draw like 5-6A for a 7.5A fuse to be installed. So.. 6A plus the original halogen lightbulb draw is less than what this light bar draws. 4.1A I went and found the installation video for the alternator. Its a full moon stator so it must then be 10A, 11.4V. It's tough when you don't have the specs.

Anybody know how many watts the heated hand grips are? I'm thinking 30W a piece? 40 would be too hot. 15W is not enough. 2= 60W at 10.4V

This lightbar should be OK operating at 4.1A and 10.4V with an alternator with a 10A capacity.

The lightbar spec sheet only said 10-30V and 120W. I'm assuming an equivalent light output to a 120W resistance type bulb.


----------



## Mike247365

Here are the pics. hopefully they will upload


----------



## Coby7

If you're using Igmur you have to select the image link.


----------



## NorthMaine

Money_man said:


> Still looks good. And with snow flying 40ft high and wind blowing, who's going to notice the cord. Any night shots?




You’re probably right haha. 

I replaced a 12v/55w for this 36w LED bar. The old halogen would dim when turning the electric chute and would also dim at lowered throttle, but nothing of the sorts with the LED. Full power all the time, no flickering or anything. As you can tell all the snow we accumulated over the past 2 months melted in 2 days... hoping for some blowable snow in the near future!!











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bruker

Don't know if these lights have been discussed but they work great for those of us that are limited to a max of 18 watts. With a rectifier and no capacitors there's no flickering. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-9W-3-In...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


----------



## Donut

I have a question on wiring led’s. Do I have to isolate the DC side of the rectifier or can I connect the negative of the dc to chassis ground and also one of A.C. connectors on the bridge rectifier to ground essentially having two prongs on the rectifier to ground. Basically can I use the chassis as the dc ground. 

Doug


----------



## jonnied12

Donut said:


> I have a question on wiring led’s. Do I have to isolate the DC side of the rectifier or can I connect the negative of the dc to chassis ground and also one of A.C. connectors on the bridge rectifier to ground essentially having two prongs on the rectifier to ground. Basically can I use the chassis as the dc ground.
> 
> Doug


 What is the make and model of your snow blower?


----------



## Donut

MTD . Only one wire coming off engin so they are using the chassis for one side of the ac


----------



## jonnied12

The wire from the engine to one of the AC post on the bridge rectifier.
A wire from the other AC post on the bridge rectifier to engine ground.
A wire from DC+ on the bridge rectifier to the positive wire on the light.
A wire from the DC- on the bridge rectifier to the other wire on the light.
DO NOT GROUND THE DC SIDE OF THE BRIDGE RECTIFIER.
Don't forget your capacitor(s) between the bridge rectifier and light.
By the way welcome to the forum.


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

If you ground the DC side to the frame when the AC side is grounded, it will short the half phase to ground cause things to do snap crackle pop

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## jonnied12

Bassguitarist1985 said:


> If you ground the DC side to the frame when the AC side is grounded, it will short the half phase to ground cause things to do snap crackle pop
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## Donut

Ok jonnied thanks so much. I already have the capacitors wired in and glad you told me not to run the negitive DC on the rectifier to chassis ground and to isolate it and go directly to the ground wire of the lights.
I hope this helps others that may be confused on this matte.
Again Thank You;

Your friend Doug


----------



## Northman#21

*Yellow*

I used the information on this thread as the basis for this amber LED light mod on my newly purchased used HS725. The sealed beam light it came with was DOA.

The three inexpensive 48 LED arrays I chose for this project produced a harsh ultraviolet and bluish light. Using an ancient chrome plated fog light housing with amber glass made the light much easier on the eyes. The yellow wavelength also generates less kick back from snow, rain or fog. 

The Fuse, Bridge Rectifier and Electrolytic capacitor previously described by Superedge88 was used. In addition 2 wire wound 7.5 Ohm in parallel, an LM 7812 voltage regulator and a tiny .05 mFd. capacitor were added to provide a constant 12 volts to the 3 arrays.

All components were surface soldered to a 2 ounce copper clad circuit board. The layout was cut with a linoleum knife and peeled back. Be advised though cheap and relatively quick, this technique can result in significant blood loss. Black tape and hot melt glue were used for vibration fatigue protection. The Led arrays were mounted on the other side of the board using the foam adhesive backing they came with. Aluminum foil tape was used between the arrays to improve the appearance.

Mounting the electronics inside the fog light housing makes the LED light plug and play for wiring. Acid core plumbing flux was used when soldering the ground connection to a rivet on the housing. Tie wraps secure the wire from the alternator connection. (vibration protection).

The light produces roughly 170 degrees of flood illumination to about 35 feet radius. The flood lighting also gives relatively stable intensity even if the blower is negotiating uneven terrain.

Our lane is 1 Kilometer long. Sometimes the wind and snow only diminish after dark. This is so much better than two flashlights duct taped to my 40+ year old HS55.


----------



## jonnied12

Donut said:


> Ok jonnied thanks so much. I already have the capacitors wired in and glad you told me not to run the negitive DC on the rectifier to chassis ground and to isolate it and go directly to the ground wire of the lights.
> I hope this helps others that may be confused on this matte.
> Again Thank You;
> 
> Your friend Doug


 You're welcome. Glad it worked out for you.


----------



## jonnied12

Northman#21 said:


> I used the information on this thread as the basis for this amber LED light mod on my newly purchased used HS725. The sealed beam light it came with was DOA.
> 
> The three inexpensive 48 LED arrays I chose for this project produced a harsh ultraviolet and bluish light. Using an ancient chrome plated fog light housing with amber glass made the light much easier on the eyes. The yellow wavelength also generates less kick back from snow, rain or fog.
> 
> The Fuse, Bridge Rectifier and Electrolytic capacitor previously described by Superedge88 was used. In addition 2 wire wound 7.5 Ohm in parallel, an LM 7812 voltage regulator and a tiny .05 mFd. capacitor were added to provide a constant 12 volts to the 3 arrays.
> 
> All components were surface soldered to a 2 ounce copper clad circuit board. The layout was cut with a linoleum knife and peeled back. Be advised though cheap and relatively quick, this technique can result in significant blood loss. Black tape and hot melt glue were used for vibration fatigue protection. The Led arrays were mounted on the other side of the board using the foam adhesive backing they came with. Aluminum foil tape was used between the arrays to improve the appearance.
> 
> Mounting the electronics inside the fog light housing makes the LED light plug and play for wiring. Acid core plumbing flux was used when soldering the ground connection to a rivet on the housing. Tie wraps secure the wire from the alternator connection. (vibration protection).
> 
> The light produces roughly 170 degrees of flood illumination to about 35 feet radius. The flood lighting also gives relatively stable intensity even if the blower is negotiating uneven terrain.
> 
> Our lane is 1 Kilometer long. Sometimes the wind and snow only diminish after dark. This is so much better than two flashlights duct taped to my 40+ year old HS55.


 Nice job. Rather creative aren't you.:surprise:


----------



## BHShaman

Hi group.

My elderly father in-law got what he thought was a shop light for me for xmas.
Instead he got me a Nilight 20" 126w LED bar.
Anyone know if this would be too much draw off my hs828. 
I have halogen light installed, so would just splice it in at first, and if flicker use the bridge. 

But if it will kill the magneto, won't bother.


----------



## Coby7

Northman#21 said:


> The Fuse, Bridge Rectifier and Electrolytic capacitor previously described by Superedge88 was used. In addition 2 wire wound 7.5 Ohm in parallel, an LM 7812 voltage regulator and a tiny .05 mFd. capacitor were added to provide a constant 12 volts to the 3 arrays.


Do you have a drawing of your circuit? I'm not sure I understand the reasoning for the two 7.5Ω resistors in series with the electrolytic capacitor to ground...I could see them in series with pin 1 of the LM7812 input to take some of the heat of the regulator.


----------



## drmerdp

BHShaman said:


> Hi group.
> 
> My elderly father in-law got what he thought was a shop light for me for xmas.
> Instead he got me a Nilight 20" 126w LED bar.
> Anyone know if this would be too much draw off my hs828.
> I have halogen light installed, so would just splice it in at first, and if flicker use the bridge.
> 
> But if it will kill the magneto, won't bother.


Way to much of a draw. You have a 50w lighting coil. I’ve found that a 27w light keeps voltages perfectly inline. Particularly at idle. 2 18w pods, 36watts leaves idle voltages below just 10v. Most of the led lights sold are rated for 10-32v.


----------



## snow-shovel

Northman#21 said:


> Acid core plumbing flux was used when soldering the ground connection to a rivet on the housing.


You may have issues with the ground connection over time. Acid core is used for plumbing to clean and etch copper pipes. It is not friendly to electrical connections and will likely corrode and create a high resistant ground eventually. You should use rosin core for any electrical soldering.


----------



## BHShaman

drmerdp said:


> Way to much of a draw.


Thanks


----------



## Shryp

I don't usually check this thread, but I stopped in to check the last couple pages when I found this video. It looks like donyboy73 has found us.


----------



## GoBlowSnow

YAY what an honor! Glad to see SBF represented, thank you Donny!


----------



## Bassguitarist1985

Shryp said:


> I don't usually check this thread, but I stopped in to check the last couple pages when I found this video. It looks like donyboy73 has found us.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecVm0lpHRfw


Def! Dony is a great dude! His videos are very succinct and informative, cutting out all the banter and discovery most would experience with such a project. One part he did not get into at all or mention was the stator amperage capacity. This topic needs to be discussed when you want to put zombie lights on a snowblower without first checking to see if the stator can handle it, heated grips, and the OEM halogen all at the same time.

Most snowblower stators are 5A, 60 Watts, @ 12VAC. This is more than ample to power a 20 watt halogen light and heated hand grips. The 12" LED light bar he has running parallel with the 20 watt halogen. The box claims it is 72 watts, but researching a guy on Amazon reviewing the bar stated it draws about 3.5A @12VDC, so in reality it is more like 42 watts. The input voltage range is 10-30 VDC. That means the wattage can vary from 90 Watts @ 30VDC, or ~40 watts @ 12VDC. To measure how 'bright' an LED light is based in lumens, lux, and candela. Color temp is a matter of preference, though most chose somewhere between 5000-6000 Kelvin and this is a whole other conversation altogether.

In any event, that is still too much amperage draw if one wanted to run it with the other accessories, the halogen OEM light, and heated grips simultaneously. In fact, you can only run the 12" light bar, OR the heated grips, only one at a time. I would hope that he will explain this in more detail. 

Cheers
Bass


----------



## J_H

I have just tried to install led lights on my snow blower. But I only get about 6v DC out of the bridge rectifier. Does anyone know what the problem might be?


----------



## snow-shovel

J_H said:


> I have just tried to install led lights on my snow blower. But I only get about 6v DC out of the bridge rectifier. Does anyone know what the problem might be?


Can you sketch the wiring you used for the lights?

What make of snow blower do you have?


----------



## drmerdp

J_H said:


> I have just tried to install led lights on my snow blower. But I only get about 6v DC out of the bridge rectifier. Does anyone know what the problem might be?


What make and model snowblower. Also what engine. A lot of tecumsehs I see only put 6volts.


----------



## J_H

It's an older MTD. I have about 18v AC from the engine. I connected this cable and one from the chassis to the AC plugs on the bridge rectifier. Could it be a bad bridge rectifier?


----------



## Coby7

Maybe too much load.


----------



## J_H

I get 6v DC with no load, on basically maximum rpm.


----------



## Coby7

Well something must be hooked up wrong if you have 18 VAC going into a bridge you should have 18+ volts DC with no load.


----------



## TJJ

I have a Yamaha YT660EDJ (i.e. YT624EDJ) with a regular 23W bulb light and 12V battery starter. 

Does anyone know how this model is wired i.e. are there separate stator coils for the light and battery charging or is it done with just one coil? I haven't found a service manual for this model and the newer YT660 model already has LED lighting with different wiring circuit. It does have just one coil, but can I assume that the EDJ is similar? 

I haven't yet gone thru the wiring, so I'm not sure how battery charging DC voltage is done. There is one mystery part under the control panel, maybe a diode. But shouldn't there be a regulator somewhere? Looks like it's easier to just add a bridge rectifier + capacitors to the existing lamp AC wiring and use that for the replacement LED lamp.


----------



## TJJ

I checked my Yamaha's wiring and there are two separate circuits with their own outputs from the engine. One goes thru a diode to the battery and the other goes straight to the 23W light. Looks like swapping that to an LED light is an easy job. I'll just build a box with a rectifier, capacitor, fuse and add wires with suitable connectors and it's then almost plug'n'play...


----------



## Jarhead4life22

I have a quick question with hooking up an led flood light to my mtd snowblower. I have not really any electrical sense to me other then red is hot and black is ground. Now I have bought a bridge rectifier and a wiring harness and I am just wondering if any of you all could provide me with a diagram on what to hook up where because I have already tried to wire the stuff up and I hooked the black wire with a white stripe on it which is running from the motor and it was hooked up to the positive side of the rectifier and the black to one of the other posts on the rectifier and nothing happened and I am at a loss and I am ready to start ripping my hair out. Please help


----------



## jonnied12

Jarhead4life22 said:


> I have a quick question with hooking up an led flood light to my mtd snowblower. I have not really any electrical sense to me other then red is hot and black is ground. Now I have bought a bridge rectifier and a wiring harness and I am just wondering if any of you all could provide me with a diagram on what to hook up where because I have already tried to wire the stuff up and I hooked the black wire with a white stripe on it which is running from the motor and it was hooked up to the positive side of the rectifier and the black to one of the other posts on the rectifier and nothing happened and I am at a loss and I am ready to start ripping my hair out. Please help


 The wire from the engine to one of the AC post on the bridge rectifier.
A wire from the other AC post on the bridge rectifier to engine ground.
A wire from DC+ on the bridge rectifier to the positive wire on the light.
A wire from the DC- on the bridge rectifier to the other wire on the light.
DO NOT GROUND THE DC SIDE OF THE BRIDGE RECTIFIER.
Don't forget your capacitor(s) between the bridge rectifier and light.
By the way welcome to the forum.


----------



## underp2

Just finished reading 111 pages of this thread!


----------



## underp2

I have been able to tweak this information to allow me to bridge AC to DC, added 1000 uf cap then used DC to power an electric linear actuator that I now use as a chute deflector control via a double pole double throw switch that I have wired as a motor reverser.


----------



## underp2

underp2 said:


> I have been able to tweak this information to allow me to bridge AC to DC, added 1000 uf cap then used DC to power an electric linear actuator that I now use as a chute deflector control via a double pole double throw switch that I have wired as a motor reverser.


When I power the switch (momentary) - off - (momentary), the light gets very dim. I am considering converting the light to LED, and/or using relays to cut power to the lights when the motor is being actuated. I would otherwise leave the light on all the time. I have observed the cycle time of the cylinder to be 5-6 seconds, but 15-16 seconds with the light on. 
Anyone have any suggestions besides going the relay route?
The snowblower is a yard king signature 9hp/29inch. (Manufactured by Murray). 26 watt headlight, no grip heaters. Mudflaps installed on impeller. 

I'm new to the forum, too. Despite browsing for several years. So let me be the first to say "Welcome! " lol


----------



## drmerdp

So it’s a tecumseh? Do you have just the yellow wire for lights, or a red wire as well? If you had a coil designed to power lights only, you might not have enough juice to run both at the same time. The dimming you noticed. What does your voltage drop too with the lights and chute motor?


----------



## underp2

drmerdp said:


> So it’s a tecumseh? Do you have just the yellow wire for lights, or a red wire as well? If you had a coil designed to power lights only, you might not have enough juice to run both at the same time. The dimming you noticed. What does your voltage drop too with the lights and chute motor?


Yellow wire only.
Kind of hard for me to check voltage while working the cylinder. I don't have enough hands, and the vibration always pops the alligator clips off.


----------



## jonnied12

underp2 said:


> Yellow wire only.
> Kind of hard for me to check voltage while working the cylinder. I don't have enough hands, and the vibration always pops the alligator clips off.


 You may need to find a way to mount a small lawnmower 12V battery. Hook your cylinder power supply wires to the battery and keep the battery on a small battery tender type charger when not in use. You may burn your coil up with that much current draw.


----------



## jonnied12

Jarhead4life22 said:


> I have a quick question with hooking up an led flood light to my mtd snowblower. I have not really any electrical sense to me other then red is hot and black is ground. Now I have bought a bridge rectifier and a wiring harness and I am just wondering if any of you all could provide me with a diagram on what to hook up where because I have already tried to wire the stuff up and I hooked the black wire with a white stripe on it which is running from the motor and it was hooked up to the positive side of the rectifier and the black to one of the other posts on the rectifier and nothing happened and I am at a loss and I am ready to start ripping my hair out. Please help


 By the way, what color are your wires coming out of the engine and going to the existing headlight?


----------



## ggreenfield

ggreenfield said:


> Finally had time to finish my install. The capacitors definitely made a difference.


I've used the snowblower several times now and love the LED upgrade. I'd really like to add a second light, on the left side of the machine. I see a number of people are running 2 lights. Are there any extra modifications needed? Or can I just wire it in to my other light? Is there any chance of overloading the system?

Thanks!


----------



## underp2

jonnied12 said:


> underp2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow wire only.
> Kind of hard for me to check voltage while working the cylinder. I don't have enough hands, and the vibration always pops the alligator clips off.
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to find a way to mount a small lawnmower 12V battery. Hook your cylinder power supply wires to the battery and keep the battery on a small battery tender type charger when not in use. You may burn your coil up with that much current draw.
Click to expand...

The cylinder uses just over 1 amp. The light is an 1156 rated for 26 watts, so probably using 2 amps. Going to wire in a relay & flip the scraper blade / cutting edge over today.


----------



## ggreenfield

I currently have one 18w LED light installed (see post 977). I'd like to add a second one to the left side of the machine. Can this be done without issue or is it possible to overload the electrical system on the blower? Thanks for the help.


----------



## Evasive501

Didnt see anywhere how to wire a relay if you wanted to with the switch... possible?


----------



## JerryR

Evasive501 said:


> Didnt see anywhere how to wire a relay if you wanted to with the switch... possible?


What do you want to do with the relay?

JerryR


----------



## JerryR

ggreenfield said:


> I currently have one 18w LED light installed (see post 977). I'd like to add a second one to the left side of the machine. Can this be done without issue or is it possible to overload the electrical system on the blower? Thanks for the help.


Post 977 shows an Ariens snow blower, so my guess is- you have a 60W stator like most late model Ariens.
Most LED lamps of the type you show in Post 977 are rated for DC voltages up to 24v or more and the 18w rating is based on that.
The only way you will know for sure if you are exceeding the stator 60W rating, is to measure the voltage applied to lamps and the current that 2 18W lamps draw when the blower is running.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## Evasive501

Didnt know if you actually needed one since it came with my switch I bought. I was always used to using a relay with any of my projects, heated grips on a motorcycle, accessories for a car, etc.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to SBF Evasive501

Relays are nice to keep the higher current circuit short and the low current switching circuit as convenient as possible. With something like the relative small current draw a single or pair of LED headlights would have compared to running incandescent bulbs IMHO it's not worth the extra part and wiring.


----------



## Blackink

If I have a question about adding LED lighting to my Ariens snowblower and I want to upload a wiring diagram because I have some questions, can I do it in this thread or do I start a new thread?

Thanks,
Steve


----------



## Dauntae

I would say this thread as others may find it useful if they want to add a light to the same machine as you are.


----------



## Blackink

Dauntae said:


> I would say this thread as others may find it useful if they want to add a light to the same machine as you are.


Well then....let's begin!

I have an Ariens Deluxe 30 Platinum Series Model#: 921018. B&S 1650 SnowSeries engine on it.
I've put a volt meter on the 2 wires coming out of the motor: yellow and black, and I get about 32VAC while the unit is running.
I have the standard halogen light and handwarmers too.

From all the reading I've done in this thread, I should be able to install these items below with no problems:
2 - Cree 18W Flood lights
2 - capacitors 2200uf 50V
1 - 50A 1000V Rectifier
Misc, connectors, wiring, shrink wrap tubing.

Does anyone have any suggestions for some type of box/enclosure for the rectifier and capacitors to help "clean it up some"?

Does anyone have any suggestions or tips before I dig into this project?

Pics of the wiring is below....

Thanks,
Steve


----------



## ggreenfield

I, along with some others, have used "project boxes" to contain everything. Can be found at most electric supply stores for a few bucks.

Sent from my SM-N920R6 using Tapatalk


----------



## underp2

underp2 said:


> jonnied12 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> underp2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow wire only.
> Kind of hard for me to check voltage while working the cylinder. I don't have enough hands, and the vibration always pops the alligator clips off.
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to find a way to mount a small lawnmower 12V battery. Hook your cylinder power supply wires to the battery and keep the battery on a small battery tender type charger when not in use. You may burn your coil up with that much current draw.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The cylinder uses just over 1 amp. The light is an 1156 rated for 26 watts, so probably using 2 amps. Going to wire in a relay & flip the scraper blade / cutting edge over today.
Click to expand...

Ok. I got the scraper blade flipped over & the relay wired in. With the machine standing on the bucket in the shop, I tested it and it works as intended: light is always powered through relay. When switch is moved (either way), then relay switches light off until switch returns to center. Everything tests out fine in the shop... but...
When I bring it outside to test, the light is on, & when the switch is moved, the light goes very dim (dimmer than usual) & the linear actuator cylinder moves very slow. When the linear actuator reaches the end of its stroke (and the internal limit switch), the light goes off. Which is what it should have done to begin with. Since everything tested fine in the shop, I was confused why it behaved differently in live action. I got out the fluke & got the following readings:

At max RPM:
41V. No light, no servo, no load.
6V. Light only
4.3V. Light & servo
16V. Servo only. No light
26V. When servo reaches internal limit switch (light shuts off)

At idle (interesting, but don't really care...)
28V. No load
11V. Servo only. No light. 
4.2V. Light only.
3.3V. Light & servo.

Conclusions, theories, & ideas:
1. The light brings the Voltage down to a pathetic 6V. This would explain why the light is so dim. Replacing that light with an LED bulb (depending on wattage) could reduce amp draw, reduce voltage drop, increase lumen output, etc.
2. The wiring tests soundly on the bench, but not in practice. This could be because the light draw is so high that the voltage has dropped too low (4.3V) for the relay to switch. This may also be remedied by changing to an LED bulb.
3. The bulb. It is a common 1156 bulb. Switching to a high output multi SMD bulb may produce the same effect due to too much draw & therefore too much voltage drop. But, the compromise is in the light output. Since the bulb is rated @ 26W, and the resulting voltage is 6V, I would think I want a bulb that is rated at approximately half the wattage (10-12 watts) in order to keep the voltage at 12 for the relay & the servo cylinder. Does that make sense?
4. Since this is a really long post, mostly focused on relay logic, voltage, & servo cylinder function, with only a little mention of LEDS,maybe I should've started a new thread? Let me know.

Thanks for all your help & interest in this topic.


----------



## drmerdp

I’m not sure what’s available as an upgrade, but the factory lighting coil doesn’t seem capable of what you planning.

Even if you actively switch between the light and linear actuator, the voltages are not ideal.


----------



## JerryR

underp2 said:


> Ok. I got the scraper blade flipped over & the relay wired in. With the machine standing on the bucket in the shop, I tested it and it works as intended: light is always powered through relay. When switch is moved (either way), then relay switches light off until switch returns to center. Everything tests out fine in the shop... but...
> When I bring it outside to test, the light is on, & when the switch is moved, the light goes very dim (dimmer than usual) & the linear actuator cylinder moves very slow. When the linear actuator reaches the end of its stroke (and the internal limit switch), the light goes off. Which is what it should have done to begin with. Since everything tested fine in the shop, I was confused why it behaved differently in live action. I got out the fluke & got the following readings:
> 
> At max RPM:
> 41V. No light, no servo, no load.
> 6V. Light only
> 4.3V. Light & servo
> 16V. Servo only. No light
> 26V. When servo reaches internal limit switch (light shuts off)
> 
> At idle (interesting, but don't really care...)
> 28V. No load
> 11V. Servo only. No light.
> 4.2V. Light only.
> 3.3V. Light & servo.
> 
> Conclusions, theories, & ideas:
> 1. The light brings the Voltage down to a pathetic 6V. This would explain why the light is so dim. Replacing that light with an LED bulb (depending on wattage) could reduce amp draw, reduce voltage drop, increase lumen output, etc.
> 2. The wiring tests soundly on the bench, but not in practice. This could be because the light draw is so high that the voltage has dropped too low (4.3V) for the relay to switch. This may also be remedied by changing to an LED bulb.
> 3. The bulb. It is a common 1156 bulb. Switching to a high output multi SMD bulb may produce the same effect due to too much draw & therefore too much voltage drop. But, the compromise is in the light output. Since the bulb is rated @ 26W, and the resulting voltage is 6V, I would think I want a bulb that is rated at approximately half the wattage (10-12 watts) in order to keep the voltage at 12 for the relay & the servo cylinder. Does that make sense?
> 4. Since this is a really long post, mostly focused on relay logic, voltage, & servo cylinder function, with only a little mention of LEDS,maybe I should've started a new thread? Let me know.
> 
> Thanks for all your help & interest in this topic.


It seems excessive to to have a voltage drop of 35V with only a 27W lamp (rated for 12V, and is now operating at only 6V), but if there are no problems in the stator and lamp wiring, and that is the nature of the beast, take a look at these you may have to copy and paste, I don't know how to make it an active link) 

https://www.ebay.com/p/2x-10w-CREE-...m=182860617837&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

While they are rated 10W if you read their specs they are rated at up to 30VDC, so the question is 10W at what voltage?
my past experience with similar lamps is that on the bench with 12VDC they drew about 500mA each, with 2 of them you may be close to what your servo draws(about 1A) which may leave you enough voltage headroom to operate the lamps and your relay.
If that still proves to be a non working solution, it may be time to consider the use of a 12V battery.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## underp2

I'm trying to avoid the battery route, even though I have a couple of candidates in the shop. I think snowblower vibration would be torture on a battery. An this will be simpler in the long run. But not simpler, now.


----------



## underp2

Been looking at some bulbs. They vary from 3.5 watt (650 lumen) to 3.8 watt (900 lumen) to 8 watt (1000 lumen). Don't want to overdo it.


----------



## thefixer

Are the capacitors necessary or will I be good with just the bridge rectifier? I'm putting LED's on Hondas, HS828, HS928 and an HS1128.


----------



## drmerdp

thefixer said:


> Are the capacitors necessary or will I be good with just the bridge rectifier? I'm putting LED's on Hondas, HS828, HS928 and an HS1128.


Although capacitors aren’t absolutely nessesary, they are highly recommended. Jonnied12 posted occiliscope readings a while back that showed how well they clean up the DC current. 1 2200uf capacitor good. 2 2200uf capacitors better.

It’s worth the little extra effort. Zero noticeable flicker, even at idle.


----------



## ggreenfield

thefixer said:


> Are the capacitors necessary or will I be good with just the bridge rectifier? I'm putting LED's on Hondas, HS828, HS928 and an HS1128.


In my case they were. I fried 2 Lights almost instantly my first time because I didn't have the capacitors. I added the capacitors, replaced the lights and they have been working fine now.

Sent from my SM-N920R6 using Tapatalk


----------



## Blackink

Parts are on order for my LED light conversion.

Hopefully, the project will get started and done on the first weekend in March.

I will take before and after pics.....


----------



## Dauntae

should be a easy install, I didn't use the caps on mine, Can see a slight flicker when looking at it but not noticeable when behind the blower, Some lights I guess are effected more than others and some engines put out better power too. Girlfriends blower has the same light as mine and hers does not flicker at all so caps may or may not be needed. The light I installed


----------



## thefixer

Can you get the capacitors with some kind of tabs for hooking up the wires or are you just soldering them in. Any pics of any installs?


----------



## Blackink

Blackink said:


> Parts are on order for my LED light conversion.
> 
> Hopefully, the project will get started and done on the first weekend in March.
> 
> I will take before and after pics.....


Grrrrr.....Was just notified by Amazon that the capacitors might not get here until March 8th! Maybe sooner if I get lucky.
That's a bummer. Everything else will be here this coming week.

My momma told me there'd be days like these! lolol


----------



## jonnied12

Cap results:


----------



## drmerdp

thefixer said:


> Can you get the capacitors with some kind of tabs for hooking up the wires or are you just soldering them in. Any pics of any installs?


Crummy pic, soldered w/ shrink tubing. 

8amp 50v full bridge rectifier, 1 2200uf capacitor in a project box.


----------



## thefixer

So 1 capacitor should do the trick. If a guy was gonna use 2, do you wire them together or in series? Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Coby7

In parallel, but why put 2, just get a 4700ɥf instead.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5PCS-4700uF...m=391433612590&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226


----------



## drmerdp

thefixer said:


> So 1 capacitor should do the trick. If a guy was gonna use 2, do you wire them together or in series? Thanks for the feedback.


Both in parallel, I ended up adding a second to that setup, just no pic of it.


----------



## Blackink

Blackink said:


> Parts are on order for my LED light conversion.
> 
> Hopefully, the project will get started and done on the first weekend in March.
> 
> I will take before and after pics.....


All the parts arrived and the installation was successful!
I have some nice light to work with now. Sorry I have no before or after pictures.

I want to thank this thread and all the people that contributed in one way or another towards offering help, suggestions and/or tips on getting LED lights installed. My hat is off to all of you. I couldn't have done this without your help.

Many Thanks again.....


----------



## underp2

Coby7 said:


> In parallel, but why put 2, just get a 4700?f instead.
> 
> https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5PCS-4700uF...m=391433612590&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226


I believe it's for redundancy. Plus, in parallel, I'm not sure if the capacitance adds... (it's been a long time since I took that class)
So (2) 2200uf capacitors are recommended. Only 1 is needed.

I actually used (1) 1000uf cap. Just got the new lights, haven't tested out yet...


----------



## Coby7

I parallel they add in series they divide.


----------



## underp2

Coby7 said:


> I parallel they add in series they divide.


So if I put (2) 2200uf caps in series, it would be equivalent to 1100uf?

And for those putting (2) 2200uf caps jn parallel, it would be equivalent to 4400uf?


----------



## underp2

I blew my new LED the other day. 
It was this model from Amazon:
iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector 

Not sure if that will show you the actual light, but it is an 1156 LED replacement. Only thing I can think of is I did idle it down a few times that day. It is so loud that I guess I do that to give myself a break. My ears are really sensitive even though I was wearing earplugs. 

Any thoughts? Is my 1000uf filter cap enough? Should I put (2) 2200uf caps in? Did voltage go too low at idle? Or too high while running at full throttle? I thought these things were supposed to give constant current? 

Switching to the LED light did allow the chute deflector cylinder and relay switching to work perfectly.


----------



## jonnied12

underp2 said:


> So if I put (2) 2200uf caps in series, it would be equivalent to 1100uf?
> 
> And for those putting (2) 2200uf caps jn parallel, it would be equivalent to 4400uf?


Correct


----------



## orangputeh

what's the readers digest version of the best answer?

i'm retired but don't want to spend 3 days reading thru 115 pages.......


----------



## jonnied12

orangputeh said:


> what's the readers digest version of the best answer?
> 
> i'm retired but don't want to spend 3 days reading thru 115 pages.......


The wire from the engine (AC circuit, usually the original wire to existing headlight) to one of the AC post on the bridge rectifier.
A wire from the other AC post on the bridge rectifier to engine ground.
A wire from DC+ on the bridge rectifier to the positive wire on the light.
A wire from the DC- on the bridge rectifier to the other wire on the light.
DO NOT GROUND THE DC SIDE OF THE BRIDGE RECTIFIER.
Don't forget your capacitor(s) between the bridge rectifier and light.


Hope this helps.


----------



## orangputeh

jonnied12 said:


> The wire from the engine (AC circuit, usually the original wire to existing headlight) to one of the AC post on the bridge rectifier.
> A wire from the other AC post on the bridge rectifier to engine ground.
> A wire from DC+ on the bridge rectifier to the positive wire on the light.
> A wire from the DC- on the bridge rectifier to the other wire on the light.
> DO NOT GROUND THE DC SIDE OF THE BRIDGE RECTIFIER.
> Don't forget your capacitor(s) between the bridge rectifier and light.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


yes it helps.

how about an AC/DC led light. The "fixer" showed me his today that he got on amazon. i may go that way. no mess.


----------



## viper8315

Well, I'm the new kid on the block around here, but I'm going to try the AC/DC LED light method (PAR36). I wanted the simplest installation method. My parts should be here tomorrow. I'll report back with the install once I get it done.

Granted, the DC rectifier and cap method will probably produce the cleanest DC voltage, but you have to find a spot to securely mount the rectifier and cap(s). There's also this option:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/power-supplies/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module/1725/

Anyone have any luck with that?


----------



## orangputeh

viper8315 said:


> Well, I'm the new kid on the block around here, but I'm going to try the AC/DC LED light method (PAR36). I wanted the simplest installation method. My parts should be here tomorrow. I'll report back with the install once I get it done.
> 
> Granted, the DC rectifier and cap method will probably produce the cleanest DC voltage, but you have to find a spot to securely mount the rectifier and cap(s). There's also this option:
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/power-supplies/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module/1725/
> 
> Anyone have any luck with that?


I'm with you. the simpler the better. check out the thread "bargain 1128" by the Fixer. He put 2 ac/dc led lights on his 1128 and they are bright as ****. no mods needed. I just bought the 2 set on amazon. easy installation.less than 5 minutes .

no flickering, no burn out.


----------



## Mate from Virginia

*AC/DC converter*

Hi. This is a good way to go. I used the AC/DC converter for my Led lights on my snow blower. I didn't have to worry about hooking up capacitors because they are built into the converter. No flickering at all.


----------



## viper8315

Mate from Virginia said:


> Hi. This is a good way to go. I used the AC/DC converter for my Led lights on my snow blower. I didn't have to worry about hooking up capacitors because they are built into the converter. No flickering at all.


Hello there Mate from Virginia. It was thanks to you that I found that little converter. I saw your youtube video on the install, very impressive. I probably won't end up using it, but thanks anyway. I sure hope people can spot you easier now, I'm not sure what else you could do besides put a light bar over your head. :laugh:


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## Freezn

If you're going with a PAR 36 LED and you want a simple installation with no bridge rectifier required go with this 12v - 24v AC/DC PAR 36 Bulb. Outstanding light output and it's rated for both AC and DC voltage. Best $18.00 I ever spent.


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## viper8315

Freezn said:


> If you're going with a PAR 36 LED and you want a simple installation with no bridge rectifier required go with this 12v - 24v AC/DC PAR 36 Bulb. Outstanding light output and it's rated for both AC and DC voltage. Best $18.00 I ever spent.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017IFJ93I/ref=psdc_2314207011_t1_B01G8EJAAM


That's exactly what I bought! Thanks! Hopefully everything will be here today. I probably won't actually get to use the blower again for this season, but at least I'll be ready for next winter.


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## Freezn

Nice. Is your machine currently set-up to mount a PAR 36 bulb? If not, you can purchase a PAR 36 rubber shell with universal mounting bracket.

PAR 36 Rubber Shell with Mount: Peterson Manufacturing Part# 507LU https://www.finditparts.com/products/2012509/peterson-lighting-507lu 

Makes mounting the PAR 36 bulb a breeze.


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## viper8315

Freezn said:


> Nice. Is your machine currently set-up to mount a PAR 36 bulb? If not, you can purchase a PAR 36 rubber shell with universal mounting bracket.
> 
> PAR 36 Rubber Shell with Mount: Peterson Manufacturing Part# 507LU https://www.finditparts.com/products/2012509/peterson-lighting-507lu
> 
> Makes mounting the PAR 36 bulb a breeze.


I bought two of these off amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBSUQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Freezn

viper8315 said:


> I bought two of these off amazon...QUOTE]
> 
> Yup, those will do the trick. Please post pics when you've completed the project. Also a good idea to add 1 or 2 amp inline fuse on the power supply wire feeding the lights. Cover the wires with split loom and zip ties and you're good to go.


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## Motor City

viper8315 said:


> Well, I'm the new kid on the block around here, but I'm going to try the AC/DC LED light method (PAR36). I wanted the simplest installation method. My parts should be here tomorrow. I'll report back with the install once I get it done.
> 
> Granted, the DC rectifier and cap method will probably produce the cleanest DC voltage, but you have to find a spot to securely mount the rectifier and cap(s). There's also this option:
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/power-supplies/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module/1725/
> 
> Anyone have any luck with that?


I used the DC converter from Super Brights. Works great and save a lot of time.


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## robs9

I own a Toro 1028 LXE. I told it has an alternator. Assuming its 12 volts. Not sure of amperage. With that said can I basically just replace bulb with a led? And not go through all rhe wiring mentioned above.

Thanks for your help.
Rob


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## JerryR

robs9 said:


> I own a Toro 1028 LXE. I told it has an alternator. Assuming its 12 volts. Not sure of amperage. With that said can I basically just replace bulb with a led? And not go through all rhe wiring mentioned above.
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> Rob
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The LEDs require DC, if your blower is equipped with a lamp it probably uses AC
HTH
JerryR


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## robs9

JerryR said:


> The LEDs require DC, if your blower is equipped with a lamp it probably uses AC
> HTH
> JerryR


Jerry, I thought if an engine had an alternator, and not a charging system like a lawnmower I could just replace the bulb. Now what I don't know is if this (alternator) produces AC or DC. I thought all alternators produced DC.

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## JerryR

robs9 said:


> Jerry, I thought if an engine had an alternator, and not a charging system like a lawnmower I could just replace the bulb. Now what I don't know is if this (alternator) produces AC or DC. I thought all alternators produced DC.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Alternators in* cars* produce DC because cars need DC to power all the electronics and charge the battery they do that with rectifier diodes built in.
Most conventional (Non EFI) snow blowers have stators (I think that is the correct name for what some of us call alternator, generator etc.) that generate AC to power a lamp, an incandescent lamp does not care if it is powered by AC or DC.
If you have a battery (electric start) then you may have DC to charge it. To tell if you have AC or DC you'll need a voltmeter that can measure both AC and DC.
HTH
JerryR


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## robs9

Thanks, I was trying do it as clean as possible. Looks like I'm going to have to look at the rectifier by Superbright leds and go that root. 
With that said, will it have enough power to feed two small led lamp assemblies? Of course i would replace the original assembly with one of the leds.


JerryR said:


> Alternators in* cars* produce DC because cars need DC to power all the electronics and charge the battery they do that with rectifier diodes built in.
> Most conventional (Non EFI) snow blowers have stators (I think that is the correct name for what some of us call alternator, generator etc.) that generate AC to power a lamp, an incandescent lamp does not care if it is powered by AC or DC.
> HTH
> JerryR


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## JerryR

robs9 said:


> Thanks, I was trying do it as clean as possible. Looks like I'm going to have to look at the rectifier by Superbright leds and go that root.
> With that said, will it have enough power to feed two small led lamp assemblies? Of course i would replace the original assembly with one of the leds.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


to find out what capacity "alternator " you can do a google search for "toro 1028 lxe manual" one of the entries from toro.com will let you download user, service and parts manuals based on your serial No. the parts manual will have the specs for your alternator.
Depending on how you use your lights (how much power they consume and for how long), Have you considered using a battery for the lights, might be a lot simpler than getting involved with rectifier, filter, switch etc.
HTH
JerryR


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## robs9

JerryR, Thank you for that idea I will do that. Haven't given the battery idea any real steam. I would have to figure out where to mount the battery. And what size battery. I wanted to use two 4led lights. One replacing the stock one and on the left side mount another using the stock mount from Toro. The wiring is not that a big of a problem. It was suggested to me by a friend to just mount an led flashlight to the handle bars. 

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## robs9

So here's my plan. I found out that the blower puts out 18 watts. So I'm ordering two 4.8 watt led lights and a ac/dc rectifier from Super Bright Leds. Another stock Toro headlight brkt. All in all it should be a pretty clean install. Might even put a switch in to turn them off when not needed.

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## ChinaSwede

Hi,

I haven't read all 117 pages, not even close, but I have a few questions.

I have an early 90's Stiga 523 with a 5hp tecumseh engine. It has a light kit installed already, and the alternator is on the outside with a part number of 1A183-69. The stick between the flywheel and the alternator is broken, so I can't test it out at all yet, all I know is that I can get 9v out of it with my drill so I'll assume its working.

What is the power rating of one of those things? I see a lot of people say they are generally rated for 1a but then people keep saying that the original bulbs tend to be 20w and they convert them into 40-60w led's? 

I'd like to think I'm well versed in electrical stuff but this I don't really understand, especially as I can't find too much on the internet with that part number.

Also, if anyone of you knows where I could find a new stick to replace the broken one, it'd be greatly appreciated, the only problem being that I live in Finland, so it's a bit of a pain to come and buy one from the states  but if anyone has any tips on that or on how I can get the broken part off of the flywheel, it'd be greatly appreciated as the first snow has already landed in the northern parts of the country.


Edit:
The blower has no battery, and no starter kit installed, just the lights.


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## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to SBF ChinaSwede

If it's part #14 in the diagram I keep coming up with it being no longer available. You might need to try a repair shop to see if they get a bad engine with that part they'd sell you. There is an alternate part number, #2210269 
Any chance it can be welded or brazed ?? If it's plastic maybe a body shop can use a plastic welder to repair it ?? I'd be a little concerned on why it snapped. Might just be old age but it could also be that the bearings in the generator are starting to get a little stiff. Something to check out.

Light's will have a wattage rating but there is a difference on what it's drawing in current and it's equivalent to an incandescent or fluorescent. I can't say for sure but you might be getting confused on someone saying they went to an LED with more light output (watts) but at the same watt draw.
In most cases the stock headlight is using all the available current. There are exceptions like machines that can come with hand warmers or 12 volt starters. They have more capacity. But in general, in your case with a 20 watt headlight you'd want to stick with 1 led drawing the 20 watts or multiple headlights not exceeding that total of 20 watts.


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## robs9

I am converting to Leds on my Toro. Apparently my machine produces 18 watts AC. So I am getting a rectifier to change from AC to DC and leds from Super Bright Leds. Putting the rectifier in line from alternator and wiring in two, one on each handle drawing 4.8 watts each. So I'm under the total output of the alternator. 

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## Kiss4aFrog

robs9 said:


> So here's my plan. I found out that the blower puts out 18 watts. So I'm ordering two 4.8 watt led lights and a ac/dc rectifier from Super Bright Leds.


If you check around on Ebay, Amazon, ... they have LED floods that work on AC. Likely have the converter circuitry built into the LED.

The link isn't anything I recommend or have tried it's just to give you an idea of the AC/DC feature not needing a converter.

https://www.amazon.com/GLW-Waterproof-Daylight-Security-Equivalent/dp/B008XZAPV8/ref=asc_df_B008XZAPV8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193177650676&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13408547917520864412&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019031&hvtargid=pla-308974555885&psc=1


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## robs9

Kiss4aFrog said:


> If you check around on Ebay, Amazon, ... they have LED floods that work on AC. Likely have the converter circuitry built into the LED.
> 
> The link isn't anything I recommend or have tried it's just to give you an idea of the AC/DC feature not needing a converter.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/GLW-Waterpro...ocphy=9019031&hvtargid=pla-308974555885&psc=1


Thanks, I looked at that link. It looks a bit bigà and maybe designed for more use on the house. Here us what I'm going to use. And it only draws 4.8 watts. So I'm going to mount two of them.The rectifier isn't that big. Going to try and hide it under the dashboard where controls are. Maybe add on/off switch.









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## ChinaSwede

Kiss4aFrog said:


> :welcome: to SBF ChinaSwede
> 
> If it's part #14 in the diagram I keep coming up with it being no longer available. You might need to try a repair shop to see if they get a bad engine with that part they'd sell you. There is an alternate part number, #2210269
> Any chance it can be welded or brazed ?? If it's plastic maybe a body shop can use a plastic welder to repair it ?? I'd be a little concerned on why it snapped. Might just be old age but it could also be that the bearings in the generator are starting to get a little stiff. Something to check out.
> 
> Light's will have a wattage rating but there is a difference on what it's drawing in current and it's equivalent to an incandescent or fluorescent. I can't say for sure but you might be getting confused on someone saying they went to an LED with more light output (watts) but at the same watt draw.
> In most cases the stock headlight is using all the available current. There are exceptions like machines that can come with hand warmers or 12 volt starters. They have more capacity. But in general, in your case with a 20 watt headlight you'd want to stick with 1 led drawing the 20 watts or multiple headlights not exceeding that total of 20 watts.


Thanks Kiss4afrog!

I didn't think that it could be the same bs marketing you see on led bulbs but guess you are right. The engine sticker does say there is an electric starter option, but I don't know if it would use the same alternator. I bought an 18w led to begin with just to be sure. It just gets crazy dark out here in the winter, basically the same as mid alaska.

It is the part 14 on the diagram, and its kinda hard to say what broke it. Its metal and pretty springy. I have tried to go to a couple small engine shops today, and even the ones with old tecumseh badges on their walls said that they can't do anything since tecumseh is long gone. I trust them on that, as they can fix early 50's agria tractors easily without spares. I don't really know where to look for another tecumseh engine to get it from, as people tend to get rid of the snow manually out here.

I even contacted stiga themselves and I will try a scrapyard and a stiga dealership (which also does miracles on old husqvarna gear so I'm slightly hopefuö) and if they can't help me, I know a guy with a car instrument cluster repair shop and I'll ask if one of his shafts will fit into my holes. The one I time my 1990 volvo is way too new..

And when all this fails, I'll just try sticking a nail into it. Unless someone can tell me if there is a reason it needs to be springy like the oem part was?


P.s. the alternator turned fine with a drill, but I will definetely change out the grease in it. I'm not a monster that expects it to work on 25 year old grease, especially when nobody has really used the thing since the turn of the century.


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## cbrown06

Hi guys. Could someone help me with a wiring diagram? I am adding 2 led lights and switch to my new Ariens Platinum 30 SHO. I decided to use a 12V AC to DC converter module from super bright leds.com. How is the converter module wired to the stator? Doesn’t the stator have just 1 wire? The converter module has 2 ac input wires.....also how is the relay for the switch wired to the converter module? Sorry for all the questions as this is my first time trying this.


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## nastorino

My dealer out here in CT actually sells replacement bulbs for Ariens snowblowers now. Wish he wasn't out in the boonies from where I'm at otherwise I'd be snagging one.


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## tabora

ChinaSwede said:


> The stick between the flywheel and the alternator is broken...


If the shaft has a simple break and you have both ends, can you use a shaft coupler like one of these to join the parts?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5mm-Moto...6aa9042ee:m:mcBNXk4k431P8F2v5LUYRKQ:rk:1:pf:0

Or is this by any chance the correct part?
https://www.ebay.com/p/Tecumseh-Alt...LK-Packing/2292124494?iid=263790685788&chn=ps

Or this one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-NE...h=item4d70db1cb8:g:z8AAAOSw5cJawNg0:rk:3:pf:0


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## tabora

Kiss4aFrog said:


> ...I can't say for sure but you might be getting confused on someone saying they went to an LED with more light output (watts) but at the same watt draw...


When they're referring to light output, they should be saying lumens (output), not watts (input/consumption). Not to mention heat output (waste/inefficiency), except that it does keep the snow off the lights! :wink2:


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## ChinaSwede

tabora said:


> If the shaft has a simple break and you have both ends, can you use a shaft coupler like one of these to join the parts?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5mm-Moto...6aa9042ee:m:mcBNXk4k431P8F2v5LUYRKQ:rk:1:pf:0
> 
> Or is this by any chance the correct part?
> https://www.ebay.com/p/Tecumseh-Alt...LK-Packing/2292124494?iid=263790685788&chn=ps
> 
> Or this one?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-NE...h=item4d70db1cb8:g:z8AAAOSw5cJawNg0:rk:3:pf:0


Oh **** yeah! Thank you so much!

I think I've just tried looking at stuff in europe and especially after finding the stiga part number I was lead on the wrong path with all the 90 usd parts. All I hope now is that those are 90mm long as stiga had them in 3 lengths...

I did buy a kilo of nails tho so I'll be trying using it with a nail instead of a proper shaft at first but it would be nice to be able to fix it properly. Don't really want to wait 2 weeks for the shaft to arrive from the states


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## JerryR

cbrown06 said:


> Hi guys. Could someone help me with a wiring diagram? I am adding 2 led lights and switch to my new Ariens Platinum 30 SHO. I decided to use a 12V AC to DC converter module from super bright leds.com. How is the converter module wired to the stator? Doesn’t the stator have just 1 wire? The converter module has 2 ac input wires.....also how is the relay for the switch wired to the converter module? Sorry for all the questions as this is my first time trying this.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you know how much current your LEDs draw and is the AC/DC converter rated for this current?
The only reason i can see for a relay is if your switch is not rated for your total load current, so if you get a switch that can handle the total load current you don't need a relay.
The Ariens I'm familiar with have 2 wires coming out of the stator, if your machine has only 1 wire, than the other wire is connected internally to the engine.
with 2 wires you would wire one wire(yellow or Red) to the switch, out of the switch to either AC input wire of your AC/DC converter. The other wire(Black) from the stator to the remaining AC input wire of the converter.
If only 1 wire - follow the first wire/switch hookup as above, and tie the converter 2nd input wire to the engine body. the 2 DC wires(verify which is which as far as polarity) out of the converter go to your LEDs. Hook up your LEDs in parallel (Red to Red, Black to Black) and OBSERVE POLARITY 
I tried to attach a simple drawing but don't know if it worked.
HTH
JerryR


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## Kiss4aFrog

tabora said:


> When they're referring to light output, they should be saying lumens (output), not watts (input/consumption). Not to mention heat output (waste/inefficiency), except that it does keep the snow off the lights! :wink2:


That's the point I was trying to make is that you need to compare apples to apples. Actual light output Lumens is how best to compare different lights but in a lot of cases for flourscent and LED bulbs you see them say it's a X watt bulb but equal to a XX watt bulb. They are saying it draws the lower current but still produces the amount of light (lumens) the older bulbs, incandescent produced. So the six watt LED might be equal to a 60 Watt incandescent in the lumens it can produce. The packaging gets confusing as they are trying to show how little electricity it uses but still gives you the brightness of what you used to know as a 60, 75 or 100 watt bulb.

Hopefully in the future residential incandescent goes the way of the rotary phone and they just use lumens. But I'm pretty sure it's going to be like when Congress passed the Metric Conversion Act of 1975 and we tried to go metric. It died such a horrible death as so many were unwilling to change.
I'm kind of split on using LED's in cars though. I always change over my interior lights on a new acquisition as I install brighter bulbs and the light is so much crisper, easier to read. But, for the exterior bulbs it's a different story. Being up north there is a certain advantage in the winter to the heat an incandescent produces and helps keep snow and ice off the front and especially rear lenses.

.


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## cbrown06

JerryR said:


> Do you know how much current your LEDs draw and is the AC/DC converter rated for this current?
> 
> The only reason i can see for a relay is if your switch is not rated for your total load current, so if you get a switch that can handle the total load current you don't need a relay.
> 
> The Ariens I'm familiar with have 2 wires coming out of the stator, if your machine has only 1 wire, than the other wire is connected internally to the engine.
> 
> with 2 wires you would wire one wire(yellow or Red) to the switch, out of the switch to either AC input wire of your AC/DC converter. The other wire(Black) from the stator to the remaining AC input wire of the converter.
> 
> If only 1 wire - follow the first wire/switch hookup as above, and tie the converter 2nd input wire to the engine body. the 2 DC wires(verify which is which as far as polarity) out of the converter go to your LEDs. Hook up your LEDs in parallel (Red to Red, Black to Black) and OBSERVE POLARITY
> 
> I tried to attach a simple drawing but don't know if it worked.
> 
> HTH
> 
> JerryR




Thank you Jerry for your help and input. I am still waiting for the lights and supplies to arrive.....once I get them I will get back to you. Thanks for trying to attach a drawing but I was unable to see it.....not sure if it’s just me. All the best, Charlie 


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## 1132le

cbrown06 said:


> Hi guys. Could someone help me with a wiring diagram? I am adding 2 led lights and switch to my new Ariens Platinum 30 SHO. I decided to use a 12V AC to DC converter module from super bright leds.com. How is the converter module wired to the stator? Doesn’t the stator have just 1 wire? The converter module has 2 ac input wires.....also how is the relay for the switch wired to the converter module? Sorry for all the questions as this is my first time trying this.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





If you read this thread you will know how to wire it and also find several post that contain the information you want
I will tell you tht the stator has a yellow and black just like mine and the handlebars and chassis are not grounded as was just pointed out to me
the wiring diagram is within this thread several times
you got a killer machine congrats


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## cbrown06

Thanks 1132le for all of your help.


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## 1132le

cbrown06 said:


> Thanks 1132le for all of your help.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



You learn things when you read vs someone just telling you how to do it or giving you the diagarm
there is also more then one way to wire it up
if you read the thread you will see that and might prefer one of the ways better then the other

rather then trusting someone on the internet you dont know
knowing how to do something is alot better then following what others do
you are most welcome


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## cbrown06

Thanks again for your help.


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## ChinaSwede

Kiss4aFrog said:


> That's the point I was trying to make is that you need to compare apples to apples. Actual light output Lumens is how best to compare different lights but in a lot of cases for flourscent and LED bulbs you see them say it's a X watt bulb but equal to a XX watt bulb. They are saying it draws the lower current but still produces the amount of light (lumens) the older bulbs, incandescent produced. So the six watt LED might be equal to a 60 Watt incandescent in the lumens it can produce. The packaging gets confusing as they are trying to show how little electricity it uses but still gives you the brightness of what you used to know as a 60, 75 or 100 watt bulb.
> 
> Hopefully in the future residential incandescent goes the way of the rotary phone and they just use lumens. But I'm pretty sure it's going to be like when Congress passed the Metric Conversion Act of 1975 and we tried to go metric. It died such a horrible death as so many were unwilling to change.
> I'm kind of split on using LED's in cars though. I always change over my interior lights on a new acquisition as I install brighter bulbs and the light is so much crisper, easier to read. But, for the exterior bulbs it's a different story. Being up north there is a certain advantage in the winter to the heat an incandescent produces and helps keep snow and ice off the front and especially rear lenses.
> 
> .



This goes way off topic but it's been illegal to sell traditional incandescents in EU for a looong time(maybe almost 10 years? not sure) but still we got the bs marketing, but I don't think I had seen it on anything more umm. Professional lighting. Usually it's just marketing for homeowners but its still pretty bs. It should at least be more clear from the packaging. I did find an led light that claimed to be 27w on the grounds of having 9x3w led's, but it also said it only draws 17w at 1.4a 10v(for those not too familiar with the calculations 1.4Ax10v=14W). Amazing. Didn't get that one for some reason.

Also, I'm starting to already consider just replacing my tecumseh with like an briggs&stratton or a honda engine as all but 1 of the sellers on ebay were pretty rude about not selling to anyone outside the u.s. Don't really know why it's always the americans who don't want to sell to anyone outside their country. I wonder if they would sell to me if I showed them that I got an american passport aswell ;P


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## robs9

Not sure why they would have been rude. But it probably because they were thinking of what it would take/cost to send international. Any hazards due to gas or oil residues? 

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## Kiss4aFrog

It's likely just that it's more of a hassle (work) for them to do it but could also be a learned response from being scammed in the past. Just depends on how badly they want to sell it I guess.

.


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## tabora

ChinaSwede said:


> Don't really know why it's always the americans who don't want to sell to anyone outside their country. I wonder if they would sell to me if I showed them that I got an american passport as well ;P


If you order it and send it to my business, I'll be happy to forward it to you at cost.

Focused on You
162 U.S. Route One
Scarborough, ME 04074-8975

I've already done this for a couple of list members in Canada.


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## robs9

So I thought I had my led conversation set. Two 4.8 watt light fixtures and a rectifier. Now I'm not sure how to wire them because all the rectifiers I have seen have two AC wires and two normal 12v pos and neg wires. My 2008 Toro 1028 has one alt wire going to the light on it now. What do I do with the second AC wire in the rectifier? Am I twisting them together and hooking them up to to the one coming from the alt. Or is there a second AC wire not I haven't found on the blower? I have been wiring stuff on cars my whole life, but have not ever had to worry about AC and converting it to DC with a rectifier. 

So I quess, HELP??
ROB

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## rslifkin

The second AC wire from the rectifier should go to chassis ground on your blower. It sounds like the stock setup uses the chassis ground as the second wire from the stator (instead of running 2 wires and being isolated from the chassis).


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## robs9

rslifkin said:


> The second AC wire from the rectifier should go to chassis ground on your blower. It sounds like the stock setup uses the chassis ground as the second wire from the stator (instead of running 2 wires and being isolated from the chassis).


It looks like it goes to the light and back down to the engine block. I had a feeling one of the AC wires should go to ground. Wasn't sure.

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## cbrown06

Hi fellas,
After reading ALL of this thread I attempted to install LEDs on my new Ariens Platinum 30. I attached a very primitive (a la 3rd grade quality) diagram. The lights turn on however they barely light......very dim. Any suggestions? I have not yet added capacitors.....just the rectifier.... I grounded the rectifier AC- and the black wire from the stator under the console to metal that was scraped clean with a self tapping screw.

Thank you in advance.


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## cbrown06

cbrown06 said:


> Hi fellas,
> After reading ALL of this thread I attempted to install LEDs on my new Ariens Platinum 30. I attached a very primitive (a la 3rd grade quality) diagram. The lights turn on however they barely light......very dim. Any suggestions? I have not yet added capacitors.....just the rectifier.... I grounded the rectifier AC- and the black wire from the stator under the console to metal that was scraped clean with a self tapping screw.
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Ok. I tried another way. Instead of grounding the stator black wire and the ac- rectifier to the chassis , I connected the black wire from the stator directly to the rectifier AC-. Still the LEDs light but very dim. What do you experienced electrical guys suggest? 


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## cbrown06

Another question....on a 2018 Ariens Platinum 30 SHO.....black and red wire (that becomes yellow when it heads up to the factory light) from stator.......can anyone confirm what the black wire is? Thank you.


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## JerryR

cbrown06 said:


> Another question....on a 2018 Ariens Platinum 30 SHO.....black and red wire (that becomes yellow when it heads up to the factory light) from stator.......can anyone confirm what the black wire is? Thank you.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Now I'm confused, Do you have red and black wires coming out of the stator(Eventually Yellow and Black to the light)?? or is it just 1 wire coming out of the stator?
If you have 2 wires RED+Black or Yell+Blk those are the 2 wires that should go to the AC Terminals on your rectifier.
I have the 24" DLX that has the LCT engine, if yours is the same setup the black wire IS NOT USED AS GROUND.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## cbrown06

Thanks JerryR! I figured it out. I had the switch wired wrong!
Thanks for your time and help.


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## robs9

So I dont have the components yet. But have one wire coming from my 2008 Toro Power Max 1028 blower. I want to convert the one halagen bulb to two leds. My blower puts out 18 watts. The Super Bright led lights draw 4.8 watts each. So I'm under the total output from my machine. The rectifier from them has two 12vac inputs and one 12vdc. I know what to do with DC side. I just dont kniw what to do with both ac inputs. Do I hook up one and tape the other down or twist both together. And I have seen capacitors mentioned with the use if other rectifiers. 

Theses are the products I want to use.

Can you guys out there help me?

Thanks
Rob









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## JerryR

robs9 said:


> So I dont have the components yet. But have one wire coming from my 2008 Toro Power Max 1028 blower. I want to convert the one halagen bulb to two leds. My blower puts out 18 watts. The Super Bright led lights draw 4.8 watts each. So I'm under the total output from my machine. The rectifier from them has two 12vac inputs and one 12vdc. I know what to do with DC side. I just dont kniw what to do with both ac inputs. Do I hook up one and tape the other down or twist both together. And I have seen capacitors mentioned with the use if other rectifiers.
> 
> Theses are the products I want to use.
> 
> Can you guys out there help me?
> 
> Thanks
> Rob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The one wire coming out of the stator goes to either one of the AC inputs to your rectifier. The other rectifier AC input goes to engine chassis.
BTW you are showing the rectifier with 2 DC Outputs, why are you saying the the DC out is only one?( typo?) 
HTH
JerryR


----------



## robs9

Jerry, Thanks for responding to my post. I said one DC output because the way I think that the two 12vdc wires, negative and positive are one circuit. No?

With the two AC (inputs) I just couldnt see that grounding it was the way to go. But couldn't see how it was making the circuit.

Also what the references to using capacitors for?

Thsnks again
Rob

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## JerryR

robs9 said:


> Jerry, Thanks for responding to my post. I said one DC output because the way I think that the two 12vdc wires, negative and positive are one circuit. No?
> 
> With the two AC (inputs) I just couldnt see that grounding it was the way to go. But couldn't see how it was making the circuit.
> 
> Also what the references to using capacitors for?
> 
> Thsnks again
> Rob
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


 [/QUOTE] I said one DC output because the way I think that the two 12vdc wires, negative and positive are one circuit. No? [/QUOTE]
Yes, I misunderstood what you meant.
Capacitors are used to smooth out the DC output of the rectifier because the "DC" output from a rectifier is actually Pulsating DC. 
Capacitors will also tend to raise the DC voltage depending on the capacitors size and the current drawn by the circuit.

[/QUOTE] It looks like it goes to the light and back down to the engine block. I had a feeling one of the AC wires should go to ground. Wasn't sure. 
[/QUOTE] 

Maybe we are all describing the same thing with different words. Engine Block, Chassis Ground, Ground - are all the same in this context, they provide 1/2 of the AC circuit.
As you noted correctly 2 AC terminals/wires make up 1 circuit, You also said that the light is powered by 1 wire coming from the stator, and 1 wire going to the block.
That is where your AC rectifier wires should go. Or you could simply tie your AC wire to those 2 wires (and in either case remove the lamp).
HTH
JerryR


----------



## rslifkin

So I've got a question for the electrical gurus in here: How easy is it to burn out a stator? 

Context is that I did a battery start conversion on my blower. It's got the stator and regulator Briggs uses for a "10 amp" charging system, so total power output isn't an issue (I've got plenty). The issue is that the stock Briggs regulator only regulates down, not up. So it'll hold it to a nice 14.2 volts at high RPM, but when the blower is idling, the regulator only puts out around 9.5 volts, meaning there's no battery charging available and if I turn the headlight or the grips on they'll draw down the battery as if the blower isn't running. Minimal charging becomes available above 2000 RPM and it can keep better than 13.2 volts against a 25W load once it's above 2400 - 2500. 

So I'm thinking of adding a boost regulator after the stock Briggs regulator. I've found some suitable ones that'll pull the voltage up to 13.8 volts and just pass through above that. So at low RPM it would hold 13.8 volts, climbing to 14.2 at higher RPM as the Briggs regulator takes over. But I'm concerned about burning up the stator if I do this, as at low RPM when it's regulating voltage up, if I'm drawing more power than the stator is putting out, the load on the stator would be pretty close to a dead short (unless the voltage starts dropping so low that the regulator starts to cut in and out). 

What are the thoughts on this? Is there a significant risk of hurting the stator?


----------



## robs9

I found some 2200mfd/50v capacitors today. They are bigger then I thought they would be. About 2 inches long by about a little over 1/2 inch diameter. And around 5/6 bucks each? Is that the going size and price. I'm sure I could find them cheaper if I looked long enough. And then would probably pay so kind of freight. 

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## robs9

So here is a quick drawing of the way I think I should wire the conversion to leds on my 08Toro Power Max 1028. All looks good?









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## 1132le

rslifkin said:


> So I've got a question for the electrical gurus in here: How easy is it to burn out a stator?
> 
> Context is that I did a battery start conversion on my blower. It's got the stator and regulator Briggs uses for a "10 amp" charging system, so total power output isn't an issue (I've got plenty). The issue is that the stock Briggs regulator only regulates down, not up. So it'll hold it to a nice 14.2 volts at high RPM, but when the blower is idling, the regulator only puts out around 9.5 volts, meaning there's no battery charging available and if I turn the headlight or the grips on they'll draw down the battery as if the blower isn't running. Minimal charging becomes available above 2000 RPM and it can keep better than 13.2 volts against a 25W load once it's above 2400 - 2500.
> 
> So I'm thinking of adding a boost regulator after the stock Briggs regulator. I've found some suitable ones that'll pull the voltage up to 13.8 volts and just pass through above that. So at low RPM it would hold 13.8 volts, climbing to 14.2 at higher RPM as the Briggs regulator takes over. But I'm concerned about burning up the stator if I do this, as at low RPM when it's regulating voltage up, if I'm drawing more power than the stator is putting out, the load on the stator would be pretty close to a dead short (unless the voltage starts dropping so low that the regulator starts to cut in and out).
> 
> What are the thoughts on this? Is there a significant risk of hurting the stator?



The machine shoudnt run much at idle
ive raised my idle to 2150 i dont like it low
why not just raise the idle and turn the light on when you blow or grips either way


----------



## rslifkin

1132le said:


> The machine shoudnt run much at idle
> ive raised my idle to 2150 i dont like it low
> why not just raise the idle and turn the light on when you blow or grips either way


Idle would just be warmup, cool down or talking to a neighbor. From what I can figure out with some research, the boost regulator shouldn't hurt the stator at all, so I'm going to throw one in tonight and see how it works. I should have somewhere in the 25 - 30 watt ballpark available at idle (around 1800 RPM), so enough to keep up with the headlight draw if I throttle back to talk to someone. And enough that if I let it warm up around 2000 - 2100 RPM, I should be able to pre-heat the grips without drawing down the battery at all.


----------



## rslifkin

So I tried the regulator and ended up pulling it back out for now. The regulator I got works almost the way I want it to, but not quite. 

If I decide to re-visit it, I'll need to add a relay and a diode to the setup. Diode to prevent backfeed from the battery (regulator draws a few milliamps off the battery from the output side of the reg). And the regulator targets 14.78 volts (with no load) rather than the 13.8 it's supposed to. So the voltage drop across a diode would be perfect anyway. 

The other issue is power-up. If the caps in the regulator are empty at startup, I get no charging at all, as the stator doesn't manage to kick the regulator to life for whatever reason (even if I run the RPMs up). But if I disconnect the regulator output, jumper battery power to the regulator input for a half second and then hook it back up, it works fine. So I'd need to use a 5 pin relay to switch the battery connection from the output to the input of the regulator while the start switch is held down (and it would still present an issue if you pull start the thing). 

So with all of that, I'll probably just leave it alone and run just the Briggs regulator and not worry about the lack of charging at idle. I was able to get a bit over an amp of charge current at idle through the regulator, so around 15 watts or a little more.


----------



## orangputeh

don't they just have plug and go LED bulbs for Honda now? I just plug mine in and it works okay. par36 led from amazon.

please quote and correct me if i am wrong


----------



## JerryR

robs9 said:


> So here is a quick drawing of the way I think I should wire the conversion to leds on my 08Toro Power Max 1028. All looks good?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


looks about right. 
make sure you observe the electrolytic caps polarity
HTH
JerryR


----------



## robs9

Thanks Jerry. I did hear somewhere that the capacitors have an arrow on one side. And that is negative. 

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## RLange

I have gathered the parts to add an led to my 932105 Ariens. I made a diagram to clean up the wiring when adding the capacitors to the DC line. If something is wrong let me know and I will correct it.


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## robs9

RLange said:


> I have gathered the parts to add an led to my 932105 Ariens. I made a diagram to clean up the wiring when adding the capacitors to the DC line. If something is wrong let me know and I will correct it.


Your diagram is much cleaner then mine. Haha. The only difference in mine is that I'm converting one stock light to led and adding one to the other handle bar. But our wiring is the same. I didnt draw in a switch but I am going to put one in. I'm waiting till Black Friday to see if I can get some serious deals. LOL

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## Ariens28SHOND

First I want to thank everyone here for their LED posts! I’ve attached pictures of my mod along with some Ariens information on replacing the Ariens light bulb with a 881 LED, perfect replacement. 

What you are looking at are 2 LED pods on the side of my machine. I went this way after a lot of consideration and I lean towards a nice clean look when I do my mods. I will upgrade my LED pods since I just had these laying around and wanted to get this mod up and running. I found a nice waterproof switch on amazon that you can see on my control deck. 
overview of my wiring, all connections are soldered and shrink tubed, plus plastic wire housing. You will see I found some rubber wire housing holder at my big box store and tied them into the existing screws to hold the plastic wire housing. My wires pulls from the light wires, into my AC/DC converter (no longer available on Amazon), positive then goes to the waterproof on/off switch, then too my fuse, backside of fuse to capacitors, then positives to LED’s. All grounds went to the deck chassis where I drilled the LED mounts (sand down the metal). All ground tips soldered and crimped. Any questions just ask.

Here’s a link to a replacement of the factory light bulb since my picture doesn’t appear to work below. 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07C77GYC1?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title


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## ggreenfield

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## robs9

So my Capacitors are configured differently. I have two big ones. Wires coming out of opposite ends. My question is can they be wired in together (touching each other)? Maybe taped together to minimize vibration. 

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## JerryR

robs9 said:


> So my Capacitors are configured differently. I have two big ones. Wires coming out of opposite ends. My question is can they be wired in together (touching each other)? Maybe taped together to minimize vibration.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Axial Electrolytic caps like yours are usually made with the metal case being the same as the negative lead(you can actually see the negative wire connected to the case). some of them are bare metal, Or the metal case may have a plastic cover over it.
In your case the negative wire from both caps go to the common (neg terminal of the bridge rectifier), so as long as you observe polarities, the cases can touch each other. If you are not comfortable, put some electrical tape around them for insulation.
In any case, if you are NOT using the engine block as a common (negative) ground, dont let the negative commons touch the engine block (I don't know what would happen??) 
HTH
jerryR


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## robs9

Jerry, I was going to run both wires from engine block and the alternator to the two leads of my rectifier. No? Then 12vdc side of rectifier to LEDs with the two capacitors parallel to negative and positive. With the leds connected after the caps. And a switch

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## JerryR

robs9 said:


> Jerry, I was going to run both wires from engine block and the alternator to the two leads of my rectifier. No? Then 12vdc side of rectifier to LEDs with the two capacitors parallel to negative and positive. With the leds connected after the caps. And a switch
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



If I understand you correctly, your alternator output is ONLY ONE wire and the 2nd wire is attached to the engine block?
If that is the case than one side of your rectifier AC input is grounded.
If you come out of your rectifier (DC ) with 2 wires going to the caps and to your lights you should be OK.
I don't know what would happen if you ground the DC negative- Maybe nothing??, personally, I would not ground the negative DC output.
HTH
JerryR


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## robs9

Yes one wire coming from engine. Second wire is bolted to block. One wire to each wire on rectifier. Then 12vdc going to caps and lights. Negative and positive to the lights. No other ground.

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## elsmootho

Hi SuperEdge88,

Regarding this statement in your post: "I picked a set of LED floodlights that were rated for 9-32 volts." 

Does this mean that the light puts out rated wattage of 9W at 32V DC, or is it a constant 9W throughout the whole voltage range from 9 to 32VDC ? 

Just trying to figure out how these LED lights work ie: what the output power rating of a 9W 9-32VDC will be at 9V?

Thanks in advance... 

Elsmootho...


----------



## rslifkin

elsmootho said:


> Hi SuperEdge88,
> 
> Regarding this statement in your post: "I picked a set of LED floodlights that were rated for 9-32 volts."
> 
> Does this mean that the light puts out rated wattage of 9W at 32V DC, or is it a constant 9W throughout the whole voltage range from 9 to 32VDC ?
> 
> Just trying to figure out how these LED lights work ie: what the output power rating of a 9W 9-32VDC will be at 9V?
> 
> Thanks in advance...
> 
> Elsmootho...


Generally that would mean the lights have an LED driver that will allow them to work (and typically run at the rated wattage) with an input voltage anywhere from 9 - 32 VDC.


----------



## robs9

I have not wired everything up yet. Here are a couple of pictures of what I'm going to do.

First pic is the stock light with engine running. The second is lights running on a battery. One with one led and one with both. All parts obtained from SuperBright Leds.









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## JerryR

elsmootho said:


> Hi SuperEdge88,
> 
> Regarding this statement in your post: "I picked a set of LED floodlights that were rated for 9-32 volts."
> 
> Does this mean that the light puts out rated wattage of 9W at 32V DC, or is it a constant 9W throughout the whole voltage range from 9 to 32VDC ?
> 
> Just trying to figure out how these LED lights work ie: what the output power rating of a 9W 9-32VDC will be at 9V?
> 
> Thanks in advance...
> 
> Elsmootho...


I don't think the 9W figure refers to "that the light puts out rated wattage of 9W at 32V DC" it refers to the power(in watts) that the lamp consumes at a given voltage.
I have an LED lamp rated 10W at 12-24V DC. 
I powered the lamp on the bench with a 12V DC supply and measured the current, and found that the lamp drew about 500mA (.5A).
Calculating the power(W) = voltage x current 12V x .5A =6W (a far cry from the rated 10W).
My guess is, that if I powered it with 24V (the upper rated limit) it will probably consume about 10W.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## bkwudz

Another set installed on the new pro 28, all connections soldered and sealed with heat shrink tubing


----------



## LDRider

The lights will put out the same intensity light through the voltage range. They will also use the same wattage regardless of the incoming voltage.

There is a power supply somewhere in the LED light or light assembly that converts incoming DC into AC, then converts it to a much lower voltage, around 3 volts but dependent on the exact LEDs used, and then rectifies it back into DC for the lights. Systems like this are very forgiving on any type of nominal 12 volt vehicle whether running on battery alone or using the charging system, which usually causes about a 2.5 volt difference but there will be no change in the power delivered or used by the LEDs.

BTW, outside that voltage range the LED will still not get brighter or dimmer but rather just not work. So the light will always be the same until around 9 volts when it will just shut down.

Brian



elsmootho said:


> Hi SuperEdge88,
> 
> Regarding this statement in your post: "I picked a set of LED floodlights that were rated for 9-32 volts."
> 
> Does this mean that the light puts out rated wattage of 9W at 32V DC, or is it a constant 9W throughout the whole voltage range from 9 to 32VDC ?
> 
> Just trying to figure out how these LED lights work ie: what the output power rating of a 9W 9-32VDC will be at 9V?
> 
> Thanks in advance...
> 
> Elsmootho...


----------



## elsmootho

LDRider said:


> The lights will put out the same intensity light through the voltage range. They will also use the same wattage regardless of the incoming voltage.
> 
> There is a power supply somewhere in the LED light or light assembly that converts incoming DC into AC, then converts it to a much lower voltage, around 3 volts but dependent on the exact LEDs used, and then rectifies it back into DC for the lights. Systems like this are very forgiving on any type of nominal 12 volt vehicle whether running on battery alone or using the charging system, which usually causes about a 2.5 volt difference but there will be no change in the power delivered or used by the LEDs.
> 
> BTW, outside that voltage range the LED will still not get brighter or dimmer but rather just not work. So the light will always be the same until around 9 volts when it will just shut down.
> 
> Brian


Hi LDRider, Thanks for confirming (constant brightness throughout voltage range). There was another guy on Ebay saying his LED Lights did not work properly in this regard, but they were Chinese knockoffs and there was no voltage range, it just said 24VDC. I imagine thouse did not have the PWM LED Driver circuit in them.


----------



## superedge88

Keep in mind that some cheaper/mismatched pwm circuits will induce some flicker that can be seen in video but is far less (or not at all) noticeable than the flicker that would be evident if left on the non rectified ac current.

I would just like to take a moment to thank those that have kept this/my thread alive with responses to the many questions that have been posted. I think of you guys here on the forum every time I go out and clear snow with my snowblower and its LEDs burning up the night.


----------



## LDRider

The incredibly obvious flicker in video is usually not visible to humans, that is merely the shutter speed clashing with the cyclic rate of the LEDs. Actually, our eyes do see it but our brains smooth the way and fool us into <not> seeing it, which is why we can watch movies without annoyance though we absolutely do see every single frame of the video (talking about actual film in a movie theater here). Fluorescent lights have been flashing at us for decades and other than the occasional headache, we do not even think we noticed it. 

As to the thread contribution, well you started an interesting thread. :grin:

Brian



superedge88 said:


> Keep in mind that some cheaper/mismatched pwm circuits will induce some flicker that can be seen in video but is far less (or not at all) noticeable than the flicker that would be evident if left on the non rectified ac current.
> 
> I would just like to take a moment to thank those that have kept this/my thread alive with responses to the many questions that have been posted. I think of you guys here on the forum every time I go out and clear snow with my snowblower and its LEDs burning up the night.


----------



## SimplicitySolid22

Thanks for sharing your knowledge SuperEdge!!!


----------



## superedge88

LDRider said:


> The incredibly obvious flicker in video is usually not visible to humans, that is merely the shutter speed clashing with the cyclic rate of the LEDs. Actually, our eyes do see it but our brains smooth the way and fool us into <not> seeing it, which is why we can watch movies without annoyance though we absolutely do see every single frame of the video (talking about actual film in a movie theater here). Fluorescent lights have been flashing at us for decades and other than the occasional headache, we do not even think we noticed it. 🙂
> 
> As to the thread contribution, well you started an interesting thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> 
> superedge88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that some cheaper/mismatched pwm circuits will induce some flicker that can be seen in video but is far less (or not at all) noticeable than the flicker that would be evident if left on the non rectified ac current.
> 
> I would just like to take a moment to thank those that have kept this/my thread alive with responses to the many questions that have been posted. I think of you guys here on the forum every time I go out and clear snow with my snowblower and its LEDs burning up the night.
Click to expand...

Cyclic rate is caused by pwm, but I get your meaning.


----------



## superedge88

SimplicitySolid22 said:


> Thanks for sharing your knowledge SuperEdge!!!


You're very welcome! Merry Christmas!


----------



## LDRider

No, they are unrelated. A simple sine wave also creates a cyclic rate (at 60 Hz in the US) which is why fluorescent lights 'flicker' without having PWM involved at all. Cyclic rate is caused by, well, a cycle of any kind or shape, and that is not related to PWM in any way. 

Brian



superedge88 said:


> Cyclic rate is caused by pwm, but I get your meaning.


----------



## superedge88

LDRider said:


> No, they are unrelated. A simple sine wave also creates a cyclic rate (at 60 Hz in the US) which is why fluorescent lights 'flicker' without having PWM involved at all. Cyclic rate is caused by, well, a cycle of any kind or shape, and that is not related to PWM in any way.
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> 
> superedge88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cyclic rate is caused by pwm, but I get your meaning.
Click to expand...

Brian, I'm not talking about cyclic rate of florescent lights on ac sine wave, I'm talking about LEDs on DC current, in which case the main cause for flicker is from PWM.


----------



## Mstanton

Hey guys so I’m new to the forum and I just purchased a ariens 30” deluxe with handwarmers, but that haliogen light stinks, and I was wondering if anyone has a list of parts for mounting 2 led’s on the sides of the metal uprights leading to the handlebars. I’m looking for the brightest led light output without overloading the capacity of the machine. I know I need a bridge rectifier, 2 capacitors, a in-line fuse, and a switch. But I’m not sure where to find all that. Any help would be greatley appreciated. Thanks again


----------



## Coby7

Why don't you start by replacing the firefly it came with , with an LED replacement?


----------



## Mstanton

Coby7 said:


> Why don't you start by replacing the firefly it came with , with an LED replacement?


I thought about that but I figured if I’m going to through any money at it I might as well make it as bright as it can be by adding a couple lights to it, I didn’t think I would be satififed by just replacing the old headlight haha


----------



## Coby7

Well in order not to overload the magnito you'll have to change them over anyway or take them them out of the circuit completely, you will still need a rectifier if it isn't already DC.


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## akman1

THIS little guy (https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1275058-post898.html) blew himself internally after a few hours of operation, so I decided to go 12 volt SLA battery. A 5ah to 7ah battery is small enough to fit under the control panel and should last several hours per charge. Got mine at Home Depot & mounted it upside-down for easy charging. Upside to battery power is having light when engine dies.:grin:

Parts list:
1. 2 ea. 18W LED flood lights
2. 1 ea. 12 volt 5 amp/hour rechargeable sealed lead acid battery ($14-$35)
3. Plumber's tape (metal strapping to hold battery in place)
4. Gorilla tape (to wrap around the strap & bubble wrap)
5. Nut & bolt (to secure strap)
6. Padding (to protect battery)
7. Standard SPST automotive switch (snaps in factory hole)
7. 20 ga wire
8. Red wire loom
9. Red electrical tape (to seal wire loom 'T' gap)
10. Tie straps
11. Tie strap anchors


Oddly the lights flicker when the engine is running, Not from vibration, so is the engine inducing current interference or what?


----------



## mhaip

*Help understanding current draw*

Hi guys, I'm wondering if someone can help me understand the amps that my LED light system is drawing. The voltage off the AC output off my snowblower is 17.6v. I built the AC/DC conversion circuit based on the youtube video posted by Donnyboy73 (similar to what many other here have posted):






I am powering these LED lamps that claim to be 34 watts each:

I am trying to figure out how many amps the circuit and lamps draw to determine how much I'm possibly overpowering the snowblower stator, and what size fuse to install. The strange thing is that I am getting about the same amp reading whether I have one LED lamp connected or two (in parallel). Here are two videos showing the amperage draw when I connect the lights. In both instances the amp draw starts off at over 100 milliamps and drops down and stabilizes at about 39 milliamps. Also the amperage reported strikes me as very low for two 72 watt LEDs to be drawing. If they truly are only drawing 39 milliamps, is it reasonable to assume the snowblower stator is not being stressed and a 1 amp fuse would be sufficient? I sense I'm missing something and would appreciate hearing from someone knowledgeable in electronics.

Here's a video of the amp reading with one lamp: 






Here's a video of the amp reading with two lamps in parallel:






Here's a picture of my circuit using a bridge rectifier (KBPC5010) and two capacitors (50v 2200UF):

http://ibb.co/nQDFPsY

http://ibb.co/vqfVC0M

Here are links to all the parts I'm using:

LED Lamps: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00UV8OPKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bridge rectifiers: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072XJ4VVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073WP8PHR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Project board: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BXYKRWD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## JerryR

mhaip said:


> Hi guys, I'm wondering if someone can help me understand the amps that my LED light system is drawing. The voltage off the AC output off my snowblower is 17.6v. I built the AC/DC conversion circuit based on the youtube video posted by Donnyboy73 (similar to what many other here have posted):
> 
> I am powering these LED lamps that claim to be 34 watts each:
> 
> I am trying to figure out how many amps the circuit and lamps draw to determine how much I'm possibly overpowering the snowblower stator, and what size fuse to install. The strange thing is that I am getting about the same amp reading whether I have one LED lamp connected or two (in parallel). Here are two videos showing the amperage draw when I connect the lights. In both instances the amp draw starts off at over 100 milliamps and drops down and stabilizes at about 39 milliamps. Also the amperage reported strikes me as very low for two 72 watt LEDs to be drawing. If they truly are only drawing 39 milliamps, is it reasonable to assume the snowblower stator is not being stressed and a 1 amp fuse would be sufficient? I sense I'm missing something and would appreciate hearing from someone knowledgeable in electronics.



Do you have any powered accessories (factory lamp, grip warmers etc. (AC or DC)) that can be used as a reference load?
If you do, you can measure the output voltage of your stator and the current drawn by the accessory to get a ballpark figure to compare to your leds consumption.
BTW you are correct in suspecting the mA reading you got. 2x36W lamps should give you reading in Amps not mA. (I don't know what and/or how you meter is hooked up- give us more info.) 
HTH
JerryR


----------



## mhaip

*Diagram with Meter Connection*

Hi Jerry, thank you very much for taking the time to reply. The snowblower has no other accessories other than a single halogen light/bulb. Here's a diagram of how I have the meter attached. Perhaps I have it connected incorrectly? Strange as I am only able to get a reading on the meter when switched to 200m. Setting at 20 results in the display showing a single digit "1". Sincerely appreciate if you can let me know if I have the meter connected correctly.


----------



## JerryR

mhaip said:


> Hi Jerry, thank you very much for taking the time to reply. The snowblower has no other accessories other than a single halogen light/bulb. Here's a diagram of how I have the meter attached. Perhaps I have it connected incorrectly? Strange as I am only able to get a reading on the meter when switched to 200m. Setting at 20 results in the display showing a single digit "1". Sincerely appreciate if you can let me know if I have the meter connected correctly.


The meter is connected correctly for current measurments (in series with the load) make sure it is set to DC current measurments.
Can I assume that the current measurments you are doing are while the LEDs are lit? if so, you should be reading Amps not mA. (the amazon link to your lights rates the lamps at 2.1A @12v ea).
Could the DC Amp range on your meter be defective? hook your meter and either one or both lamps to your car battery(OBSERVE POARITY), are the LEDs lit? what current reading do you get?
Did you measure the DC voltage feeding the LEDs? while measuring the DC voltage, change the AC/DC selector to AC, is there an AC voltage reading?
how high?
As for your worry that you might be exceeding the stator rating, unless you can get a hold of the mfr. specs, you will be guessing.
Or you could post here on the forum with as much info as you have about your blower (mfr., model, engine size/number) for your blower, so that someone on the forum familiar with it can help you with the specs (I only know the specs on my Ariens 24" Dlx).
My stator is rated at 60W(AC) and with 2 36 W lamps and grip warmers I probably will exceed the rating.
Another way to go and NOT involve the stator, rectifier, and caps, is to power the lamps with a battery-someone on this discussion done that.
double check ALL your connections, and pay close attention to polarities.
Let us know what you find.
HTH
JerryR


----------



## mhaip

Regarding your question/comments: Yes readings were taken with the LED lights on. As for the AC/DC switch setting, the meter was set to DC when I did took the reading. Testing the led lights off a car battery is a great idea. I'll try that this evening. I also picked up another meter this afternoon to test with as I'm starting to believe the meter might be defective. I'll post my findings off the car battery and with the new meter. As for using a separate battery, I thought about this but would prefer to wire directly to the blower. Thanks again for the help!


----------



## jtreveloni

I know there was a huge thread on upgrading LED lights going back several years. I just upgraded my 2018 Ariens Platinum 30 SHO with LED lights and added a bunch of documentation and test measurements that I thought I'd share. It's in one .pdf document you can download. https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...ariens-platinum-30-sho-led-light-upgrade.html


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## vinmassaro

After reading through this thread, I'm doing this mod on my Craftsman 536.881851. The only issue I am running into is I'm using this illuminated LED switch rocker switch and can't get the LED on the switch to light up. I'm not sure if I missed something so I've attached a crude drawing of the wiring. It may be hard to see but I put an S for silver and a G for gold for the terminals on the switch.

I have limited electrical knowledge and basically just tried to follow what I found in this thread, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this!


----------



## JerryR

vinmassaro said:


> After reading through this thread, I'm doing this mod on my Craftsman 536.881851. The only issue I am running into is I'm using this illuminated LED switch rocker switch and can't get the LED on the switch to light up. I'm not sure if I missed something so I've attached a crude drawing of the wiring. It may be hard to see but I put an S for silver and a G for gold for the terminals on the switch.
> 
> I have limited electrical knowledge and basically just tried to follow what I found in this thread, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this!


If I'm looking at the right switch that your link points to (.Gardner BenderModel # GSW-50, 16 Amp LED Illuminated Round Hole Rocker Switch)..it is speced for 120 vac.
You are trying to light the LED with 12v
HTH
JerryR


----------



## vinmassaro

JerryR said:


> If I'm looking at the right switch that your link points to (.Gardner BenderModel # GSW-50, 16 Amp LED Illuminated Round Hole Rocker Switch)..it is speced for 120 vac.
> You are trying to light the LED with 12v
> HTH
> JerryR


:icon-embarrassed: You are right, the specs say "16 Amp/125-Volt AC, 10 Amp/250-Volt AC"

Thanks! I will pick up a 12V switch.


----------



## IDEngineer

> You are trying to light the LED with 12v


Make sure it's also a DC rated switch. That switch you tried is AC rated only. You'll find that the DC voltage ratings are substantially lower than the AC ratings for a given switch. A common rating will be 120/240VAC or 36V DC. The reason is because of arc suppression... AC will go through a zero crossing within ~16mS and self-extinguish but once a DC arc is struck it tends to stay lit unless you lower the voltage or increase the separation between the contacts.

BTW, it would be simpler to use a non-illuminated switch. If it's switching big new LED headlights, do you really need a tiny, hard to see LED too? Just wondering.


----------



## vinmassaro

IDEngineer said:


> Make sure it's also a DC rated switch. That switch you tried is AC rated only. You'll find that the DC voltage ratings are substantially lower than the AC ratings for a given switch. A common rating will be 120/240VAC or 36V DC. The reason is because of arc suppression... AC will go through a zero crossing within ~16mS and self-extinguish but once a DC arc is struck it tends to stay lit unless you lower the voltage or increase the separation between the contacts.
> 
> BTW, it would be simpler to use a non-illuminated switch. If it's switching big new LED headlights, do you really need a tiny, hard to see LED too? Just wondering.


It's what was available to me locally at Home Depot. I returned it and picked up a 12V rocker from the auto parts store which did the trick.


----------



## IDEngineer

vinmassaro said:


> It's what was available to me locally at Home Depot. I returned it and picked up a 12V rocker from the auto parts store which did the trick.


Excellent, good job! Post some photos, we all love "snowblower pron". {grin} (and misspelling intentional)


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## rick146

I'm glad i found this subject about adding LED lamps to a snowblower. I recently purchased a new one after owning a White for over 20 years and still going strong but I wanted to upgrade to a wider more powerful unit that will get the job done quicker and have all the neat features. The one thing that I thought would be cool is to have auxiliary lights but there was no decent solution from the manufacturers. I'm grateful for all the knowledge in this forum and it inspired me to do my own and give it that OEM look. I started out by getting a plastic project box to house the electronics. I wanted to have the original lamp converted to run DC and add a LED bulb and make it switchable so ( Why have any lights if you are snow blowing in the bright sunlight ? ) I ran two circuits through the box, side by side. I started out by splitting the power lead to the main light. Ran the two separate circuits though the box with rectifiers and capacitors out to each lamp set. I used the wiring harness from the lamp kit and purchased another harness for the original light and trimmed them up. This way I could drill out and square off the holes for the lighted rocker switches. Having some self adhesive black vinyl left over from another project and some 1/16th white stripe tape I made a mini dash below the main dash panel. Created labels from my label maker and gave it that clean OE look. While testing I noticed that the main light in center gives a nice wide beam which gives a nice side to side lighting. While the Auxbeam LED lighting provides a really good straight forward beam without pulsating. I can't wait to try them out in the next snow storm. Thanks for all the information and great ideas from this forum.

Troy-Bilt Arctic Storm
30" Two-Stage Snow Blower - 357cc Troy-Bilt Engine - Touch ’n Turn® Power Steering 
4-way joystick chute control
14" serrated steel auger
Heated Hand Grips
Push Button Electric Start

Auxbeam LED Light Bar 4 inch 18W LED
AUXMART Tube Clamps Mounting Brackets for LED light bar
LUYED - 1700 Lumens LED bulb for center light


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## rick146

photos


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## bkwudz

We ain’t getting no snow up here in New England, but i need to play with the RT, so i added some more LEDs, 2 red ones for the rear, and to white pointing down. Also put an orange LED in the stock housing. Don’t really need a white light in there with the to front LEDS, I’m a fan of Orange
I have also confirmed that the 881 size LED bulb is an exact replacement for the stock light. And i tried 4 different ones, and non flickered, so they.


----------



## bkwudz




----------



## jtreveloni

bkwudz, thanks for the pics and the info on the 880/881 compatibility. I got a new lamp housing after Frankensteining the old one to fit an H11. I will use the new housing with an 880/881 bulb form factor for clean mechanical fit. It looks like you went with Amber light for the 880 bulb, how bright is it? From what I am reading it looks like amber provides the most contrast in snow conditions and is the color of choice for snow plowers but not necessarily as bright as a white color (which can reflect off of snow). I also see that some bulbs provide dual capability. You turn on 1st time and it's white and then shut off then on again provides amber.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0


----------



## Dauntae

Did you have to wire in a bridge rectifier for the 881 LED, Might have to order one :grin:


----------



## jtreveloni

No bridge rectifier needed for the direct LED replacement of the halogen if you buy the right kind (see picture). I didn't use my AC/DC module to drive the headlight bulb, just for my LED light bar that required DC. My AC/DC module is 3A max. A lot of the LED bulbs (880/881/H11, etc..) now come with built-in rectifiers since they are meant to be plug and play replacements for halogens (who wants to add in a rectifier for a bulb replacement anymore). If they are an LED bulb and don't have any polarity on them then it might be plug and play but need to look at the specs. I did use an AC/DC module to run the LED light bar rather than a discrete rectifier and capacitors which you have to special mount and keep waterproof somehow since the caps are meant for circuit boards, not dowsed with snow. You can do it obviously, works fine, and probably cheaper but more work. The module is smaller foot print and 100% waterproof and has 2 mounting screws but the one I bought can drive only 36W (3A) max. The hand warmers run direct AC at 30W and the LED 880/881 bulb replacing the halogen is around 5-10W. There are other more expensive AC/DC modules if you want more amp capacity but my Ariens stator can only put out 5A max so it's not worth it since the hand warmers run on AC and they take up 2.6 amps of the 5 amps (leaving me 2.4 amps to work with). A 3amp AC/DC module is perfect for my application. If you don't have hand warmers then you got more power to spread around to run more powerful lights. I found my 2K lumen light on the front auger is plenty in addition to the LED headlight bulb. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0


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## strtch5881

Before winter, I did a bunch of work on my blower. I had also added handlebar heaters and changed from a halogen bulb to an 880 LED bulb. Bridge rectifier, capacitors, fuses and waterproof switches all installed per the diagrams I found here. LED bulb should last 50,000 hours. Nope, 15 seconds. Tried another one , 15 seconds. I have gone over the wiring 3 times and tried another rectifier. I put a third bulb in, 15 seconds. The heaters don't work either, which doesn't surprise me after seeing the wiring they are made with.


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## vinmassaro

IDEngineer said:


> Excellent, good job! Post some photos


Just finished up this project so here are some photos on my 2005 Craftsman 27" blower (536.881851). I got some bar shaped neodymium magnets and used Devcon to glue them to the aluminum housing LED light bars so I could mount them to the top of the bucket.


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## bkwudz

I have 4 different 881 bulbs here i tried, and they all work with no flicker on any of them. 10W 20, 30 and 50 W, then the amber 25W. The 10 watt is useless, the stock bulb is brighter. Is say the 20/30W led is about equal to the stock light, just much more whiter, The 50W looks a little brighter. I really dont know what these wattages mean...LOL. I’ll say the 5Ow pulls less amps than the stock bulb, ill have to check again to get an exact number. The amber is not super bright, but i am using it more as a marker light, I have the two big LEDs that give me more light than i need, the amber, red and white LEDs are more for visibility, so cars can see me. Plus i thought the amber looked real cool. I’m looking around for a 50W amber light


----------



## bkwudz

Dauntae said:


> Did you have to wire in a bridge rectifier for the 881 LED, Might have to order one :grin:


Nope, it just plugs into the stock wiring and housing. Get one listed as 50 W


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## jtreveloni

I bought some of those high power LED bulbs (880's) with custom heat sinks (4K lumen) just to play with. Although very bright I found out that the big heat sinks gets in the way of the throttle when shifted all the way to high so those are out as stock replacements. Not much extra room other than a standard 881 right angle bulb. I guess you can always Frankenstein up the plastic housing and add 2-3 bulbs in from the sides. I have an extra housing and might try. Just glue them in since they last forever. I really like some of the dual LED bulbs that have both amber + white. You just switch back and forth by turning the light on and off again. Best of both colors.


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## Dauntae

bkwudz said:


> Nope, it just plugs into the stock wiring and housing. Get one listed as 50 W


Nice, Where did you get it from, Looked at superbrightLEDS but couldn't find the one you pictured, Similar but want to make sure I get one that fits.


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## jtreveloni

I upgraded the stock lamp assembly to accept 3 bulbs (1.2K lumen+1K lumen+1.2K lumen = 3.4K lumen). I updated the .pdf document details. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0


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## Quispamgolfer

Hi I have a MTD with 13hp Tecumseh motor. I opened up the stock halogen light housing to measure voltage across the stock 27W incandescent bulb. At full throttle, I get like 7v AC across the two leads on the light bulb. The light bulb was on so does this mean my stator is only putting out 7V AC? That seems low so my only alternative is to mount a battery on board to power a couple of 18W Auxbeam led light pod?


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## jtreveloni

I doubt it but not sure. Do the same measurement after taking out the bulb (and anything else that might be drawing power) and measure across the light bulb contacts. Best to see what no load shows. And be 100% sure your meter is measuring AC voltage, not DC.


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## bkwudz

Modified my housing as well, waiting on connectors, going to run 3 amber bulbs


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## jtreveloni

Nice! And you were smart not to position the right angle socket in front of one of the mounting screws before you glue them in. I have to screw the assembly in before I insert that one of the connectors.


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## bkwudz

jtreveloni said:


> Nice! And you were smart not to position the right angle socket in front of one of the mounting screws before you glue them in. I have to screw the assembly in before I insert that one of the connectors.


Mine are not glued, i just cut notches like stock opening, i can rotate the bulbs and remove them


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## jtreveloni

Wow, good job. Thats some fancy cutting.


----------



## westkane

*LED there be light*

Good Morning from NW PA:

I recently upgraded to a Honda HSS1332AT, and while its light is better that the HSS928ATD I had, I am wondering about something. I do a bunch at night and like lite. I saw a couple of driving/work LED lights. Each was rated at 15 watts ([email protected] per light. My question is: Would it be possible to mount a set of lights like this, and power them when needed with a 12 Volt battery. Maybe even only one? What I need to know is how big of a battery would I need to have light for, say an hour? I could build a mounting bracket, but I don’t know how to figure out what size battery and how long it would last. Obviously, a car type battery would last longer, and put out more power, but a more compact tractor size battery would be more economical, and quicker to charge. 
Any ofyousmart folks out there know the equations for relating wattage, voltage, and amperage output of a battery before it would need a recharge? A Deep Cycle would be best,but heavy, and $$$. Money is short, I just spent it on a new blower. This is the spec of the light(s) I was looking at.
•	Pack of 2x 15w Square 30 Degree Super Spot beam
•	5pcs MEGA WATT 3w high intensity LEDs, Material: Heavy Duty Diecast Aluminum housing
•	Brightness:1,200 lumens per light, Waterproof rate: IP 68 Voltage: 10-24V DC, Current 2.25A @12V, 1.125A @24V
LED
Voltage	12 volts
Wattage	15 watts
Any assistance/ideas, or thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Snowman_44

jtreveloni said:


> No bridge rectifier needed for the direct LED replacement of the halogen if you buy the right kind (see picture). I didn't use my AC/DC module to drive the headlight bulb, just for my LED light bar that required DC. My AC/DC module is 3A max. A lot of the LED bulbs (880/881/H11, etc..) now come with built-in rectifiers since they are meant to be plug and play replacements for halogens (who wants to add in a rectifier for a bulb replacement anymore). If they are an LED bulb and don't have any polarity on them then it might be plug and play but need to look at the specs. I did use an AC/DC module to run the LED light bar rather than a discrete rectifier and capacitors which you have to special mount and keep waterproof somehow since the caps are meant for circuit boards, not dowsed with snow. You can do it obviously, works fine, and probably cheaper but more work. The module is smaller foot print and 100% waterproof and has 2 mounting screws but the one I bought can drive only 36W (3A) max. The hand warmers run direct AC at 30W and the LED 880/881 bulb replacing the halogen is around 5-10W. There are other more expensive AC/DC modules if you want more amp capacity but my Ariens stator can only put out 5A max so it's not worth it since the hand warmers run on AC and they take up 2.6 amps of the 5 amps (leaving me 2.4 amps to work with). A 3amp AC/DC module is perfect for my application. If you don't have hand warmers then you got more power to spread around to run more powerful lights. I found my 2K lumen light on the front auger is plenty in addition to the LED headlight bulb.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0



Thats a very nice description you have made! I just bought a Hydro Pro 28 today and I am thinking about adding some better lights to it.

Can you explain how you figured out that the stator on your machine is 5A max? I see there is a DC output from the "engine" in your schematics. Have you tested to connect a DC load directly instead of using the AC/DC converter? Any answer is very much appriciated!


----------



## Snowman_44

bkwudz said:


> I have 4 different 881 bulbs here i tried, and they all work with no flicker on any of them. 10W 20, 30 and 50 W, then the amber 25W. The 10 watt is useless, the stock bulb is brighter. Is say the 20/30W led is about equal to the stock light, just much more whiter, The 50W looks a little brighter. I really dont know what these wattages mean...LOL. I’ll say the 5Ow pulls less amps than the stock bulb, ill have to check again to get an exact number. The amber is not super bright, but i am using it more as a marker light, I have the two big LEDs that give me more light than i need, the amber, red and white LEDs are more for visibility, so cars can see me. Plus i thought the amber looked real cool. I’m looking around for a 50W amber light


I believe you are experiencing flickering, but the frequency, which is dependent of your generator, is so high that you can't see it. The only thing you see is reduced intensity and that is probably why you see that an LED at 20/30W is equal to the stock lamp. It should have been much higher intensity than a 20W halogen. I think a 20W halogen is comparable to a 3W LED.

The drop in intensity is caused by the LED driver circuit that has a under voltage threshold which you need to be higher than for the LED to turn on. I guess the threshold is about 9V. With an AC at 14V you will only have a "working" LED when the sine is higher than 9V and that is much less than 50% of the time. See the attached plot that shows a horizontal line at 9V. Only when the AC is above that line you will have a working LED.


----------



## bkwudz

Dont know, i did test it off a 12V car battery, and it wasn't any brighter. but i added the 2 more amber lights in the stock housing and it is bight as **** now!...LOL


----------



## trellis

> https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0

That's a fantastic write-up of the lighting. I see that the last item in the PDF, the dash lights where not implemented. I would like to shine a little light on the gears for night work. Would these work with the stock wiring and not need a rectifier? Would I just tap into the wires going to the stock headlight. 

Any idea what the stator on the 369cc AX (21050) generates. Also, does the 12VAC to 12VDC converter module use up any of the stator output and take away from your budget calculations?

thank you!


----------



## Snowman_44

trellis said:


> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0
> 
> That's a fantastic write-up of the lighting. I see that the last item in the PDF, the dash lights where not implemented. I would like to shine a little light on the gears for night work. Would these work with the stock wiring and not need a rectifier? Would I just tap into the wires going to the stock headlight.
> 
> Any idea what the stator on the 369cc AX (21050) generates. Also, does the 12VAC to 12VDC converter module use up any of the stator output and take away from your budget calculations?
> 
> thank you!


Hi,

I think your generator produces 60W AC:
https://www.partstree.com/parts/ariens/parts/20001111/ 

An AC/DC converter has an efficiency somewhere around 80%-90%.


----------



## trellis

Thank you!


----------



## jtreveloni

I never tested the DC Output. I assume its all coming from the same source so all get you get is 5A total but not sure. I know 414cc Platinum 30 stator is 5A (60W) because I maxed it out with my load testing and all it gave me is 5A. Slide 15 shows putting the hand warmers on (2.5A) plus at the same time I put a low resistance load (2.3ohms) across the AC/DC converter pulling the other 2.5A and it maxed out at 5A. I have also seen other blogs report out the same capacity.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0


----------



## jtreveloni

trellis said:


> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0
> 
> That's a fantastic write-up of the lighting. I see that the last item in the PDF, the dash lights where not implemented. I would like to shine a little light on the gears for night work. Would these work with the stock wiring and not need a rectifier? Would I just tap into the wires going to the stock headlight.
> 
> Any idea what the stator on the 369cc AX (21050) generates. Also, does the 12VAC to 12VDC converter module use up any of the stator output and take away from your budget calculations?
> 
> thank you!


These bolt version dash lights need 12V DC. Although they would probably shine light using AC they would probably flicker and not last long. I'm guessing the 369cc AC stator is the same as the 414cc AX at 5A (60W) max. The stator is the only power source and puts out 5A max which everything else draws from. The AC/DC converter would draw off that 5A (yes it takes away).


----------



## jtreveloni

Snowman_44 said:


> Thats a very nice description you have made! I just bought a Hydro Pro 28 today and I am thinking about adding some better lights to it.
> 
> Can you explain how you figured out that the stator on your machine is 5A max? I see there is a DC output from the "engine" in your schematics. Have you tested to connect a DC load directly instead of using the AC/DC converter? Any answer is very much appriciated!


I never tested the DC Output. I assume its all coming from the same source so all get you get is 5A total but not sure. I know 414cc Platinum 30 stator is 5A (60W) because I maxed it out with my load testing and all it gave me is 5A. Slide 15 shows putting the hand warmers on (2.5A) plus at the same time I put a low resistance load (2.3ohms) across the AC/DC converter pulling the other 2.5A and it maxed out at 5A. I have also seen other blogs report out the same capacity.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux...grade.pdf?dl=0


----------



## Harttvboy

Hi all!

First post on SBF! I’ve learned a bit about these machines here and decided to become active .

I have an older Craftsman 536-881650 with Briggs alternator (part# 793640) which, per Google, is a 2-4amp DC alternator. I bought this machine for $75 and have been applying TLC to get it back in to good working order. Roughly $200 in with parts and upgrades/maintenance and I’m feeling pretty good about it! Now I’m adding lights to the machine so I don’t need to depend on my weaker head lamps.

I obviously won’t need an AC/DC rectifier, but how suspect should I be about the cleanliness of this alternator’s output?

I’ve just ordered a dual 18w 12v DC LED setup, and since it was roughly $14 I’m guessing these don’t have DC/DC rectifiers in them.

TON’s of great info in this thread! I’ve read through the first 10 pages and learned a lot! Any input is appreciated, and thanks!


----------



## Harttvboy

Harttvboy said:


> Hi all!
> 
> First post on SBF! Iâ€™️ve learned a bit about these machines here and decided to become active /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif.
> 
> I have an older Craftsman 536-881650 with Briggs alternator (part# 793640) which, per Google, is a 2-4amp DC alternator. I bought this machine for $75 and have been applying TLC to get it back in to good working order. Roughly $200 in with parts and upgrades/maintenance and Iâ€™️m feeling pretty good about it! Now Iâ€™️m adding lights to the machine so I donâ€™️t need to depend on my weaker head lamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I obviously wonâ€™️t need an AC/DC rectifier, but how suspect should I be about the cleanliness of this alternatorâ€™️s output?
> 
> Iâ€™️ve just ordered a dual 18w 12v DC LED setup, and since it was roughly $14 Iâ€™️m guessing these donâ€™️t have DC/DC rectifiers in them.
> 
> TONâ€™️s of great info in this thread! Iâ€™️ve read through the first 10 pages and learned a lot! Any input is appreciated, and thanks!


Hi all!

So I ended up finding a capacitor that came with the positive lead off the engine’s alternator, so I’m going to try it and see what the result is.

My research indicated this to be a 2-4amp alternator, so I went with the dual 18 watt flood lights. Tonight was the first opportunity I had to make things light up for the first time after bolting and loosely wiring everything up and wow - there won’t be any problem with light at night! I’m using the frame as my negative and running wire only to the lead coming out of the alternator. Will follow up on the progress 🙂. This test was not using engine power but an alternate 12v source (LiPo battery for an RC plane).


----------



## Harttvboy

Harttvboy said:


> Harttvboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> First post on SBF! Iâ€™️ve learned a bit about these machines here and decided to become active /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif.
> 
> I have an older Craftsman 536-881650 with Briggs alternator (part# 793640) which, per Google, is a 2-4amp DC alternator. I bought this machine for $75 and have been applying TLC to get it back in to good working order. Roughly $200 in with parts and upgrades/maintenance and Iâ€™️m feeling pretty good about it! Now Iâ€™️m adding lights to the machine so I donâ€™️t need to depend on my weaker head lamps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I obviously wonâ€™️t need an AC/DC rectifier, but how suspect should I be about the cleanliness of this alternatorâ€™️s output?
> 
> Iâ€™️ve just ordered a dual 18w 12v DC LED setup, and since it was roughly $14 Iâ€™️m guessing these donâ€™️t have DC/DC rectifiers in them.
> 
> TONâ€™️s of great info in this thread! Iâ€™️ve read through the first 10 pages and learned a lot! Any input is appreciated, and thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> So I ended up finding a capacitor that came with the positive lead off the engine’s alternator, so I’m going to try it and see what the result is.
> 
> My research indicated this to be a 2-4amp alternator, so I went with the dual 18 watt flood lights. Tonight was the first opportunity I had to make things light up for the first time after bolting and loosely wiring everything up and wow - there won’t be any problem with light at night! I’m using the frame as my negative and running wire only to the lead coming out of the alternator. Will follow up on the progress 🙂. This test was not using engine power but an alternate 12v source (LiPo battery for an RC plane).
Click to expand...

Hi again! Just closing the loop on this 🙂.

As it turns out, what I found on the blower was not a capacitor but a diode. Since the alternator on this blower is not part of any AC circuit the capacitors weren’t necessary. I get clean, non-flickering light from the two floodlights! For reference, this was on a Craftsman 536.881650 blower mfd. in 2005. I added a metal chute to this blower (1502118E701MA) after finding I hated the plastic chute after taking these photos. The lights I used were Nilight 18w, 4” flood lights (B00IY3YLCI) and they look awesome! I used the frame as negative part of the circuit, then ran a cable from the lead coming off the blower with a few butt connectors and some heat shrink. I used some clear silicone around the area of the LED’s where the wires came out to prevent moisture entering the lights. Thanks everyone!


----------



## LakerCoach

Do you have a video of how you installed your LED lights on the Toro 824xl in the picture? Also maybe a parts list of items you used?
Thank you,
LakerCoach


----------



## muddywrangler

*Help with LED's*

Hi all,
I have a Craftsman snow thrower model 247.55791 I bought new in 2010. I've read every page of this thread to try to figure out how to add led lights to my snow thrower. I am very confused. There is a harness that comes out below the starter (see pic) it has a lead for heated grips and one for the headlight. Does anyone know if I can use the heated grip lead to power the led's with out the rectifier and capacitors I've read about. Any explanation and even a diagram would be most helpful. Thank you all for your time.
Dave


----------



## Newguyariens28sho

Hey all. So I just bought my first snowblower and went with the ariens 28 sho. I just wired up 2 18w cree LEDs lights thanks to MnP40c's video and post. Maybe I'm just tired but I can't figure out how to wire in a switch that has a built in light. I did not use any capacitors for flicker either. . I will add those later. Can anyone explain how to wire the switch ?


----------



## muddywrangler

Newguyariens28sho said:


> Hey all. So I just bought my first snowblower and went with the ariens 28 sho. I just wired up 2 18w cree LEDs lights thanks to MnP40c's video and post. Maybe I'm just tired but I can't figure out how to wire in a switch that has a built in light. I did not use any capacitors for flicker either. . I will add those later. Can anyone explain how to wire the switch ?


I am also interested in this info. thanks
Dave


----------



## tabora

Newguyariens28sho said:


> Can anyone explain how to wire the switch ?


 Assuming you're using a standard 5-post Carling-type illuminated switch, here's the wiring schematic. Basically, run source positive to post 2 and jumper it to post 6. Load positive goes on post 3. Ground connects to post 8 and jumpers to post 7.

In this example, "Dual LED Light Bars" will be illuminated whenever the blower is running, and the light bars icon will illuminate when the switch is On.


----------



## Snowman_44

Newguyariens28sho said:


> Hey all. So I just bought my first snowblower and went with the ariens 28 sho. I just wired up 2 18w cree LEDs lights thanks to MnP40c's video and post. Maybe I'm just tired but I can't figure out how to wire in a switch that has a built in light. I did not use any capacitors for flicker either. . I will add those later. Can anyone explain how to wire the switch ?


Hi Newguyariens28sho,

Remember to use a bridge rectifier before you add the capacitors or else they will have no function. Without a rectifier and capacitors you will have around 30% of the light intensity. I would not use 2x36W together with the handwarmers and halogen light. The generator is rated for 60W max, the handwarmers use 30W and the halogen 20W.

I simply disconnected the handwarmers and used their switch for the LED's. I will not be using the handwarmers anyway.


----------



## muddywrangler

How do I find out what the output for the stator is? I want to run these lights and wonder if my machine can handle them without issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ET0JK1Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Snowman_44

muddywrangler said:


> How do I find out what the output for the stator is? I want to run these lights and wonder if my machine can handle them without issues.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ET0JK1Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You can try to search for a part list for your blower. Then look for the stator or generator. The output may be specified there, if not you can google the part no. See attached picture of the list on an Ariens Pro.

I have two 12W Flood LEDs with a bridge rectifier and sufficient capacitance. That gives plenty of light.


----------



## muddywrangler

Snowman_44 said:


> You can try to search for a part list for your blower. Then look for the stator or generator. The output may be specified there, if not you can google the part no. See attached picture of the list on an Ariens Pro.
> 
> I have two 12W Flood LEDs with a bridge rectifier and sufficient capacitance. That gives plenty of light.


I have the part number from the owners manual but cannot find any info online at all. It is from a craftsman model 247.88791 and the part number is 951-11216. From what I did find, the engine is made by Powermore.


----------



## Snowman_44

muddywrangler said:


> I have the part number from the owners manual but cannot find any info online at all. It is from a craftsman model 247.88791 and the part number is 951-11216. From what I did find, the engine is made by Powermore.



You could send them an email and ask. Or if the heated grips are not installed, find the spec for those and use LEDs with less watts than the heated grips. If you don't have either lights or heated grips installed from before my guess is that two LEDs with 10-15W will work fine with your generator/stator.

An example would be to use two 12W LEDs, two 25V 10mF capapacitors, a 50V 12A bridge rectifier, a 7.5A fuse and a small junction box to hold everything. Be aware that these capacitors are polarized so you have to install + from the cap to + on the rectifier, or they will blow.

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Offroad-Driving-Kawasaki-Projector/dp/B01LL5YHAG/ref=sr_1_47?keywords=12w+led+flood&qid=1550390187&s=gateway&sr=8-47
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/GBPC12005/GBPC12005FS-ND/1057167
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=EEUHD1E103
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton-electronics-division/HHM/283-2948-ND/1877577
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...ical-division/BK-ATM-7-1-2/283-2327-ND/264851


----------



## muddywrangler

Thanks Snowman, I'll try that


----------



## jtreveloni

You can also just test it. Put a decent load across the stator output, something that draws 5 amps ideally, and measure with an amp meter in series or with an AC clamp around one of the lines.


----------



## muddywrangler

jtreveloni said:


> You can also just test it. Put a decent load across the stator output, something that draws 5 amps ideally, and measure with an amp meter in series or with an AC clamp around one of the lines.



That's kind of something I don't understand to well. How do I put a load across the stator and what would suggest to use that will draw the 5 amps? And how do I connect the amp meter in series. Thanks


----------



## IDEngineer

A "load across the stator" means something that draws a desired amount of current. Since we're dealing with relatively low frequencies here, we can treat everything as simple DC and Ohm's Law becomes really easy to use.


Power = Voltage * Current. If we presume the voltage coming off the generator/alternator is 12VDC, then 5 amps yields (12V * 5A =) 60 watts. Which just happens to be a common wattage for a 12V sealed beam car headlight, and why I keep one around for exactly these kinds of tests. It's a purely resistive load, though it does have significant inrush current until the filament heats up.


Next, you need a way to measure current. An ammeter, or a multimeter with an ammeter function whose range is sufficient for the test, is the proper tool for this job. You could derive current by measuring the voltage across the load, or even the generator, and calculate the current based on the voltage drop, but there's a far better way:












Take this coupon to Harbor Freight, buy ANYTHING, and they'll give you this digital multimeter (DMM) for free. This coupon is good through mid-March and applies to several different models. Make sure you get item # 69096 because it has a 10 amp current range (others only go to 5A). This DMM is no lab instrument but it is sufficient for the tests in this thread. And frankly every even modest DIY'er should have a basic DMM around anyway.


Once you have your load (car headlight) and this meter, plug the black lead into the COM jack and the red lead into the 10A jack. Turn the dial to the 10A setting. Connect one of the DMM leads to one terminal of the generator. Connect one lead of the load to the other terminal of the generator. Turn on the DMM's power switch. Connect the other lead of the DMM to the other lead of the load. This arrangement will put the DMM in series with the load - all current flowing through the load must also flow through the DMM where it will be displayed in convenient digital form.You may ignore any polarity indication on the display, it doesn't matter for what you're doing here.


Note that you can substitute different loads and read their current this same way. Want to test an LED headlight? Just connect it up instead of the headlight. This can reveal some very interesting things. I recently upgraded all of the lights on my Case 580SK from their original incandescent sealed beams to LED light bars and spots. Each of the LED lights had a current consumption rating, and I picked them based on using just a bit less current than the incandescents I was replacing so I would get the maximum light possible. But when I hooked them up at home, they consumed about half their rated current! I could have gone for about 2X the "rated" current and been just fine. I even confirmed this with an oscilloscope and dedicated current probe. Annoying, but I didn't feel like paying shipping to return the LED bars so I'm just consuming less current now.


Hope this helps. Report back!


----------



## muddywrangler

IDEngineer said:


> A "load across the stator" means something that draws a desired amount of current. Since we're dealing with relatively low frequencies here, we can treat everything as simple DC and Ohm's Law becomes really easy to use.
> 
> 
> Power = Voltage * Current. If we presume the voltage coming off the generator/alternator is 12VDC, then 5 amps yields (12V * 5A =) 60 watts. Which just happens to be a common wattage for a 12V sealed beam car headlight, and why I keep one around for exactly these kinds of tests. It's a purely resistive load, though it does have significant inrush current until the filament heats up.
> 
> 
> Next, you need a way to measure current. An ammeter, or a multimeter with an ammeter function whose range is sufficient for the test, is the proper tool for this job. You could derive current by measuring the voltage across the load, or even the generator, and calculate the current based on the voltage drop, but there's a far better way:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take this coupon to Harbor Freight, buy ANYTHING, and they'll give you this digital multimeter (DMM) for free. This coupon is good through mid-March and applies to several different models. Make sure you get item # 69096 because it has a 10 amp current range (others only go to 5A). This DMM is no lab instrument but it is sufficient for the tests in this thread. And frankly every even modest DIY'er should have a basic DMM around anyway.
> 
> 
> Once you have your load (car headlight) and this meter, plug the black lead into the COM jack and the red lead into the 10A jack. Turn the dial to the 10A setting. Connect one of the DMM leads to one terminal of the generator. Connect one lead of the load to the other terminal of the generator. Turn on the DMM's power switch. Connect the other lead of the DMM to the other lead of the load. This arrangement will put the DMM in series with the load - all current flowing through the load must also flow through the DMM where it will be displayed in convenient digital form.You may ignore any polarity indication on the display, it doesn't matter for what you're doing here.
> 
> 
> Note that you can substitute different loads and read their current this same way. Want to test an LED headlight? Just connect it up instead of the headlight. This can reveal some very interesting things. I recently upgraded all of the lights on my Case 580SK from their original incandescent sealed beams to LED light bars and spots. Each of the LED lights had a current consumption rating, and I picked them based on using just a bit less current than the incandescents I was replacing so I would get the maximum light possible. But when I hooked them up at home, they consumed about half their rated current! I could have gone for about 2X the "rated" current and been just fine. I even confirmed this with an oscilloscope and dedicated current probe. Annoying, but I didn't feel like paying shipping to return the LED bars so I'm just consuming less current now.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. Report back!



Huge help, thanks. I'll go pick up the meter this week and report back.


----------



## jtreveloni

Or you can buy this 2.5ohm, 100W, power resistor for cheap on Amazon and it will draw roughly 5A's when you put it across the output of the stator. This will simulate a light (or hand warmers, etc.) that draws 5 amps to test if the stator can handle it. Don't leave it there (or any full load) for a long period of time. Just enough time to take the measurement. https://www.amazon.com/a12050500ux0020-Chassis-Aluminum-Wirewound-Resistor/dp/B01CV607H6. 

I show pictures of measurements in my LED upgrade. 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0


----------



## trellis

Hi jtreveloni

A couple questions about the 3 LEDs in the existing fixture... if thats OK.

Just curious did you ever take apart any of the H8 or 881 lamps to see what they are doing to even out the AC?

Looks like you went with the H8 base for the 2 outside lamps, was this because the mount was easier to cut into the fixture?

Have you noticed any heat issues (melting) in the fixture?

Also, just to confirm... the addition of the 3 LED lamps in the fixture didn't need a fuse, or converter, or capacitor etc?

thank you,


----------



## IDEngineer

jtreveloni said:


> Or you can buy this 2.5ohm, 100W, power resistor for cheap on Amazon and it will draw roughly 5A's when you put it across the output of the stator.


Another good option. I suggested the headlight because most people have immediate access to at least two {grin}, don't have to spend money to use it, and don't have to wait for its arrival. There's also no heat dissipation issues with a headlight that is intended to operate from 12VDC, whereas that power resistor expects to be mounted to some kind of heat sink to dissipate 60W for all but the shortest intervals.


----------



## tabora

IDEngineer said:


> I recently upgraded all of the lights on my Case 580SK from their original incandescent sealed beams to LED light bars and spots. Each of the LED lights had a current consumption rating, and I picked them based on using just a bit less current than the incandescents I was replacing so I would get the maximum light possible. But when I hooked them up at home, they consumed about half their rated current!


I believe that what they're trying to advertise is that the LEDs emit about the same number of lumens as a given halogen drawing X watts. Typically the LED arrays draw 1/3 to 1/2 the "wattage" they mention. For example, my 32inch "180W Equivalent" LED light bar (which is incredibly bright - photos here: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...69-post13.html) draws about 6.5amps with no charging occurring, i.e. hooked directly to a battery through a meter. So 12V*6.5A=78W actual draw/180W = 43% of the equivalent halogen that would consume 180W while wasting lots of it as heat.


----------



## IDEngineer

tabora said:


> I believe that what they're trying to advertise is that the LEDs emit about the same number of lumens as a given halogen drawing X watts. Typically the LED arrays draw 1/3 to 1/2 the "wattage" they mention. For example, my 32inch "180W Equivalent" LED light bar (which is incredibly bright - photos here: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...69-post13.html) draws about 6.5amps with no charging occurring, i.e. hooked directly to a battery through a meter. So 12V*6.5A=78W actual draw/180W = 43% of the equivalent halogen that would consume 180W while wasting lots of it as heat.


 I understand what you're saying, but that's not what I'm talking about. The units I considered offered separate specs for lumens (optical output) and current consumption. Obviously that ratio is much better with LED's than with incandescents of any type (tungsten or halogen), but there's still a ratio and my goal was to consume most of the same current as the original sealed beams while taking advantage of the improved LED efficiency to dramatically increase the brightness.

For example, the stock sealed beams were 60W units, hence drawing ~5A each. Typical sealed beams yield 800-1000 lumens each. Being generous, that's (1000L / 60W =) 16.7 lumens/watt or (1000L / 5A =) 200 lumens/amp. There were four front and four rear, so ~20A was available in each lighting circuit and I got ~4000 lumens front and rear.

I replaced each with an LED mixed flood/spot light bar and a pair of side spots. I allowed 10A for the bar and 5A each for the side spots, totalling ~20A front and rear. Thus I ordered a light bar whose published current consumption was 10A and whose published power consumption was 120W yielding 12000 lumens. Note the new efficiency ratios: (12000L / 120W =) 100 lumens/watt and (12000L / 10A =) 1200 lumens/amp. That's a 6:1 improvement in efficiency, pretty much standard for most incandescent-to-LED comparisons, so all the numbers make sense.

Before installing them, I tested their current consumption with one of my lab power supplies. To my surprise, it was right at 50% of the specified value: 5 amps. These light bars are also rated for operation from around 10-30VDC, which means they have a switch mode power supply inside, and indeed you could watch the current change "almost" linearly as the voltage was ramped up and down for a relatively constant amount of power consumed. BTW, ramping the voltage all the way up to 24V made no difference in brightness, so it's not like they were playing a specsmanship game where you only get the max brightness with max voltage. Besides, the internal switcher would compensate for that.

What I don't have is a calibrated way to measure actual lumen output. They're definitely brighter (and whiter, I specifically ordered 6000K color temperature) than the sealed beams they replaced, so I'm satisifed. But from a pure current standpoint I could have literally doubled the amount of current drawn, and if the lumens-to-current relationship remained the same I could have had twice the brightness that I do now. But it's already so much better that it wasn't worth the hassle to return them and take a chance on other units that might (or might not!) similarly overspec their current consumption.

Interestingly, the side spots also consumed right at 50% of their spec sheet current. So there's definitely a pattern. I thought it might be periodic, and that the supply's display was just averaging, but a scope and current probe proved that wrong. There was the usual amount of conducted SMPS switching noise coming back but nothing that would yield an peak-to-RMS of 2:1.

You may be right about some LED's out there. But those that I've actually worked with and tested 1) published pure electrical specs, not "incandescent equivalents" or whatever; and 2) ended up actually consuming about half what they spec'd. I wish I had a calibrated way to measure lumens because it would be nice to know if I'm getting the full published lumen output for half the current, or if LED light bars and spots are just habitually overspec'd by 50%.


----------



## jtreveloni

trellis said:


> Hi jtreveloni
> 
> A couple questions about the 3 LEDs in the existing fixture... if thats OK.
> 
> Just curious did you ever take apart any of the H8 or 881 lamps to see what they are doing to even out the AC?
> 
> Looks like you went with the H8 base for the 2 outside lamps, was this because the mount was easier to cut into the fixture?
> 
> Have you noticed any heat issues (melting) in the fixture?
> 
> Also, just to confirm... the addition of the 3 LED lamps in the fixture didn't need a fuse, or converter, or capacitor etc?
> 
> thank you,


I glued the LED bulbs into the fixture. No heat issues since its about the same power as the stock halogen bulb (20W). No fuse needed, just replaced the halogen bulb with 3 LED bulbs at the same wattage (the beauty of low power LEDs). The LED bulbs I purchased have the bridge rectifier built in so they can run off of AC. No capacitor needed.


----------



## tabora

IDEngineer said:


> But those that I've actually worked with and tested 1) published pure electrical specs, not "incandescent equivalents" or whatever; and 2) ended up actually consuming about half what they spec'd. I wish I had a calibrated way to measure lumens because it would be nice to know if I'm getting the full published lumen output for half the current, or if LED light bars and spots are just habitually overspec'd by 50%.


I guess my point is that they apparently publish watt equivalences as though they are actual current draw, simply because they don't know the difference. I have sampled numerous LED arrays now (more than 10) and they have always drawn 1/3 to 1/2 the current that the published spec calls for.


----------



## RedOctobyr

IDEngineer said:


> What I don't have is a calibrated way to measure actual lumen output. They're definitely brighter (and whiter, I specifically ordered 6000K color temperature) than the sealed beams they replaced, so I'm satisifed.



It's far from a calibrated measurement. But if you want to compare light outputs apples-to-apples, you could use a camera with a Manual mode. 



Set up the brighter light. Set a manual ISO value (light sensitivity), and pick a shutter speed and aperture that gives a decent exposure. Now change over to the dimmer light, and take another picture with the same ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. This way you can compare their outputs qualitatively, at least. 



Your phone might be able to do this, if you don't have a suitable digital camera. The phone's aperture will likely be fixed. But some phones have a Manual mode, and could allow enough exposure control.


----------



## trellis

What are you using to cut the holes in the lamp housing for the additional fog lamps?


----------



## jtreveloni

The stock lamp housing only has a hole for 1 lamp (came with one 20W halogen bulb). I modified the housing to accept 3 LED lamps.


----------



## jtreveloni

I used a Dremel tool to cut the holes. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-4-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B00LUU2XFO/ref=asc_df_B00LUU2XFO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242037806074&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13056702276658120862&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001865&hvtargid=pla-434787269442&psc=1


----------



## trellis

Dremel! I don't know why but I never think of using it, it never seems to be big enough. I'll have to wipe off the dust and give it a try. thanks.


----------



## trellis

The dremel worked great. I found an interesting article on Lumens and headlight output - https://www.ledoauto.com/blog/index...men-do-a-led-car-headlight-bulbs-really-have/

And a link to a luminous flux meter that is mentioned in the article: http://www.tes.com.tw/en/product_detail.asp?seq=365

They explain that manufacturers post a theoretical peak Lumen amount. This is based on the top line possible output of a single LED chip and then multiplied by the number of LEDs used in the lamp. As a result the numbers are not to be believed for real world applications.... but I really do want a luminous flux meter!


----------



## bkwudz

i used a dremel as well, and small round hand file


----------



## trellis

After reading that you were able to notch out the plastic so that the lamp would mount I went for it.. it was relatively successful. I started by removing the fake lamp bump with a coping saw blade and the rest was easy with a dremel cutting bit.

I am using some inexpensive 881 LED lamps. They don't seem to be all that bright by comparison to the halogen. But when standing in front of the snowblower it appears that some of the problem may be the pattern of the LED isn't efficient with the reflector design. The halogen has the advantage of an even distribution of light whereas LEDs are positioned on 4 sides and front. Having a total of 3 lamps and a more even distribution of light in the fixture should give me plenty of light. I will also be adding a handlebar type switch so that I don't have to keep them on all the time.

thanks again for all the tips and ideas!


----------



## Ddub

I added a auger housing led light. All I did was tap into the original headlight wiring. Been running 2 seasons with no issues. Keep reading about these rectifiers and wonder why you need them.


----------



## tabora

Ddub said:


> I added a auger housing led light. All I did was tap into the original headlight wiring. Been running 2 seasons with no issues. Keep reading about these rectifiers and wonder why you need them.


It depends on whether your blower supplies AC or DC and whether your LED already has a built-in rectifier to accept AC.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

:iagree: Plus this thread has been running for five years so there have been plenty of changes in what's available out there.


.


----------



## Ddub

Yeah, I'm not sure. I just bought a cheap led off Amazon. (Kawell K5-5118 18W 6.2-Inch. DC 9-32V 6500K 1170LM 90 Degree Waterproof LED light bar for ATV, Jeep, Boat, Suv, Truck, Car, Atvs, Flood Light Bar - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJKXW8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0RuFCbCN5A3ZJ) I tapped into the original headlight wiring and yeah.. 2 seasons now.. No problems.


----------



## muddywrangler

Could the stator be damaged, or anything else damaged if I run too high of wattage LED's? I'm thinking about running 2 24 watt each LED's. I have hooked them up to the hand grip warmers wire and they do work (no grip warmers hooked up). As shown in a previous post, I have 2 wires coming out, 1 for headlight and 1 for warmers. If I can do it without using a rectifier and not damaging anything, that would be great and much easier. Any advice would be great. I still havent measured the wire output though.


----------



## tabora

Ddub said:


> I tapped into the original headlight wiring and yeah.. 2 seasons now.. No problems.


You haven't mentioned what make/model blower you have, but that's listed as a DC-only light, so you must have a machine that generates DC - you lucked out.


----------



## jtreveloni

DC LED lights will work when powered by AC but it's not as the manufacturer intended. AC swings both positive (DC) and negative. You just won't be delivering full power to them (only 50% duty cycle) and depending upon how the LED light is designed you might do damage over time since you are exceeding spec. Some DC lights have rectifiers circuitry built in, hard to tell unless advertised. The best way to tell if you are overloading a circuit is to measure the in-line current (amps) will light is on with volt/amp meter. If you don't know how to do that you can just measure the voltage (volts) at the DC LED light terminals while running (light is on). If it maintains the 12V's then your stator is keeping up with things. If it's dropping to 8-10V then its being burdened and not a good situation but still will light up. At $20 cost for LED light you can just replace if/after it burns outs but not as easy if the stator gets damaged.


----------



## jtreveloni

I documented my LED upgrade (see below link). Might have some info you are looking for. But this only applies to my 2018 Ariens Platinum 30 blower. If different then you got to measure. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0


----------



## Edgy1

muddywrangler said:


> Could the stator be damaged, or anything else damaged if I run too high of wattage.


Yes, you can burn up a stator. I should have taken a picture of what a melted 18 watt stator looks like before I pitched it out. The moral of that story was that in line fuses are much cheaper and far easier to replace than stators. I went 2 winters with no lights because I decided to use two 18 watt lights which actually worked well for about 5 hours before it smoked the stator lol.


----------



## trellis

Any new inexpensive LED spot or flood fixtures on the market that wire directly w/o additional circuitry?


Also, why doesn't the stock wiring on an Ariens have a fuse? Are fuses only needed when you add an LED?


----------



## RIT333

Fuses are pretty much personal preference. Anal people will always put them in, and lazy people won't. I feel that are optional and not needed
Guess I am lazy.


----------



## jblkiller

*cub cadet light upgrade 18W or more?*

I have a cub cadet model : 31AH6ZK4596 serial : 1l028l30067. Motor Briggs & Stratton family 8BSXS.3422SW. Build date 07 08. No heating grip.
The incandescent light (18W) is dead and I want replace with 2 led like Auxbeam LED Light Bar 4" 18W, with rectifier, capacitors…..
(https://www.amazon.ca/Auxbeam-degree-Waterproof-Off-road-Driving/dp/B01MQMPMXW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1516316940&sr=8-3&keywords=AUXBEAM)
How to know the capacity of watt that can I plug. I want 18W x 2. I don’t want dommage the stator. I can go safe with 18W but if I can go more I will going

Thank you


----------



## Oneacer

Wow, you'll be lit up for sure with those bad boys ...


----------



## tabora

jblkiller said:


> How to know the capacity of watt that can I plug. I want 18W x 2.


 I installed a set of those on my Toro Zero Turn mower. They actually draw a fraction of 18W, so you should be OK.
https://www.mylawnmowerforum.com/forum/27-toro/65733-toro-timecutter-14-38z.html#post586037


----------



## Sasablad

Nice one, Keep up the good work man.


----------



## jblkiller

tabora said:


> I installed a set of those on my Toro Zero Turn mower. They actually draw a fraction of 18W, so you should be OK.
> https://www.mylawnmowerforum.com/forum/27-toro/65733-toro-timecutter-14-38z.html#post586037



Thank you I will order and mesure the amperage.


----------



## jblkiller

jblkiller said:


> Thank you I will order and mesure the amperage.


When I plug the light I mesure 1.25A on AC before the rectifier. I plug the light with rectifier, 2 capacitor. 13.2Vac X 1.25A ac=17W.
I can't going with no more than one light....How to know if the stator can delivery more than 18W?


----------



## robs9

This what I bought from Superbright LEDs. https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...light-35-rectangular-5w-725-lumens/2201/4923/

Here are two pictures that I took as I was setting up the wiring and placement on my Toro 1028 Power Max.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## TheHolyCannoli

For the Deluxe platinum 921028 with Ariens AX291 engine with handwarmers, can I use two 18w LEDs? I remember reading somewhere (maybe in this thread?) that the alternator is rated for up to 60w total, but I can't figure out how much the handwarmers draw.


----------



## SMC_CT

I'm fairly handy, but am a bit illiterate when it comes to electrical stuff. So, I have a 30" Craftsman Pro (MTD) with a halogen light. When you say maximum wattage of 9W, is that what I need to buy? I see a number of "Snow blower LED light bars" but they are listed as 72W. Do you have any suggestions, or points of education for me to get this project done by December? (November now).

Cheers,
SMC_CT


----------



## Husky_22

Apologies if it's already been discussed but didn't see it mentioned. I think I get the basic concepts of the wiring but just looking to clean it up a bit. 

Does anyone have a link to a weatherproof box for the bridge rectifier or at least the capacitors - so they're not just dangling and exposed. Just trying to get ideas what would work well. Figure a small inline box and clamp it/ wire tie to the metal bar.


----------



## TheHolyCannoli

Husky_22 said:


> Apologies if it's already been discussed but didn't see it mentioned. I think I get the basic concepts of the wiring but just looking to clean it up a bit.
> 
> Does anyone have a link to a weatherproof box for the bridge rectifier or at least the capacitors - so they're not just dangling and exposed. Just trying to get ideas what would work well. Figure a small inline box and clamp it/ wire tie to the metal bar.


They make a sprayable "electric tape". I just bought it today from Home Depot. I tested it out and it seems like it will work perfectly. It's sort of like Plasti-dip, but completely non-conductive. My plan is to spray the rectifier after everything is wired to at least make it splash proof.


----------



## The Q

Husky_22 said:


> Apologies if it's already been discussed but didn't see it mentioned. I think I get the basic concepts of the wiring but just looking to clean it up a bit.
> 
> Does anyone have a link to a weatherproof box for the bridge rectifier or at least the capacitors - so they're not just dangling and exposed. Just trying to get ideas what would work well. Figure a small inline box and clamp it/ wire tie to the metal bar.


I just did this conversion today to my 22 year old YardMan. I used a plastic electrical outlet box and mounted it under my dash with a on/off switch mounted on the dash. All the wires, rectifier, and capacitors fit inside and then I put a cover on. A shallow box was not deep enough.
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]


----------



## ericr

All the light modifications talked about here seem to use the AC power output from the engine. In order to work within the power budget of that circuit, some people have added lights with enough current demand that they need to do things like NOT use their hand warmers while using their lights. However, some engine models have two power outputs, an AC and a DC output. The DC output is typically used for charging a battery. In the case of my machine (Ariens Hydro Pro RapidTrak 28), it has both an AC and DC power output, but the DC output is completely unused in the stock setup (see attached Ariens "Wiring Diagram" pic). 

I'm wondering about utilizing the DC output for lights instead of the AC output and:
* Not have to worry about competing for power on the AC circuit with the hand warmers
* Not have to add a rectifier

I realize that I might still need some filter capacitors to eliminate flicker, depending on how "dirty" the DC supply is (docs say it's "unregulated").

Looking at the Briggs and Stratton documentation, they are stating that the DC circuit supplies 2-4 amps of current, but there's no statement of what voltage that's at. I realize that the voltage would vary, depending on engine RPM and electrical load, but there's nothing stated at all. I'll probably just start up the machine and measure the DC voltage at various engine speeds to at least see what the no-load voltage is. But it would be great to learn from any others who might have already tried this.

Has anyone used the DC output to power their own lighting setup?

What voltage are they getting on the DC circuit over what current loads?

Any other tips or comments from anyone that might have tried this are appreciated!

Thanks,
Eric


----------



## mats

TheHolyCannoli said:


> For the Deluxe platinum 921028 with Ariens AX291 engine with handwarmers, can I use two 18w LEDs? I remember reading somewhere (maybe in this thread?) that the alternator is rated for up to 60w total, but I can't figure out how much the handwarmers draw.


According to https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0 the handwarmers needs 30W so 2x18 is to much if you want to use them at the same time as the warmers


----------



## Nick Karahalios

ericr said:


> All the light modifications talked about here seem to use the AC power output from the engine. In order to work within the power budget of that circuit, some people have added lights with enough current demand that they need to do things like NOT use their hand warmers while using their lights. However, some engine models have two power outputs, an AC and a DC output. The DC output is typically used for charging a battery. In the case of my machine (Ariens Hydro Pro RapidTrak 28), it has both an AC and DC power output, but the DC output is completely unused in the stock setup (see attached Ariens "Wiring Diagram" pic).
> 
> I'm wondering about utilizing the DC output for lights instead of the AC output and:
> * Not have to worry about competing for power on the AC circuit with the hand warmers
> * Not have to add a rectifier
> 
> I realize that I might still need some filter capacitors to eliminate flicker, depending on how "dirty" the DC supply is (docs say it's "unregulated").
> 
> Looking at the Briggs and Stratton documentation, they are stating that the DC circuit supplies 2-4 amps of current, but there's no statement of what voltage that's at. I realize that the voltage would vary, depending on engine RPM and electrical load, but there's nothing stated at all. I'll probably just start up the machine and measure the DC voltage at various engine speeds to at least see what the no-load voltage is. But it would be great to learn from any others who might have already tried this.
> 
> Has anyone used the DC output to power their own lighting setup?
> 
> What voltage are they getting on the DC circuit over what current loads?
> 
> Any other tips or comments from anyone that might have tried this are appreciated!
> 
> Thanks,
> Eric


So i just tried this with my 1332. The plug exiting my engine had three leeds: Black, yellow and red. Yellow being AC & red being DC as some models have 12 volt electric start. I measured the red leed voltage with it running at WOT and was getting 14VDC, i said PERFECT i can get away with a nice clean set up. So i wired up a 7" led light bar, plugged it in and was in business. Sad thing is, the bar only worked for about 5 minutes, flickered, and died. I put the multimeter back on the red lead and was only getting 5VDC, so I'm not sure what happened...Yellow leed is still sending 14VAC like it should. So there is either an issue with the DC side of the unit or the circuit is designed to have a battery hooked up? I'm not sure...at this point I think I'm going to do the bridge recifier/capacitor combo. If anyone has any more info on these 3 wire output machine please chime in.


----------



## Coby7

What wattage was your light? Does it still work on an other voltage source?


----------



## ericr

Just an update after I learned of a few twists after my original post above.

The first thing is that it can be a bit convoluted to understand the alternator circuitry on a Briggs and Stratton engine type on an Ariens snowblower. Let me explain. My engine model is a B&S 25M137-0110-F1. Looking at B&S repair manual 276781, the "7" digit means it has "Electric starter 12 or 24 Volt Gear Drive". But we all know that's not true, since the only electric start on any current Ariens machine is 120V AC or 240V AC (non N America). I called Jack's Small Engines (https://www.jackssmallengines.com/) and told them my engine model number and that it was from an Ariens snowblower. They said that Ariens sometimes buys engines and then changes them a bit. In my case, they changed it to the 120V AC electric start. Thumbs-up to Jack's Small Engines for being knowledgeable and helpful!

The other oddity was with Ariens' own wiring diagram documentation specifically for the 926060 (see pic in my original post). They show only connecting to the yellow wire from the engine (and using the snowblower chassis for ground). But that does not match my machine (maybe it was correct for S/N < 1500, since they made some small changes there??). My machine has a black and yellow wire both connected from the engine. That threw me off, thinking that with a chassis as ground, each of these wires were power, one AC and the other DC. But I realize that would only have made sense if they were powering the hand-warmers off one of the power wires and the light form the other (one AC, the other DC). Otherwise, they would never have had a reason to have more than a single wire from the engine). But starting the engine and probing with a voltmeter cleared things up for me. There was no DC voltage between the two wires or from either of the two wires to the chassis. There was about 10.5 V AC between the two wires and lower AC voltages from either wire to chassis (running at a bit above idle). So Ariens does NOT use the chassis for ground (contrary to their picture) and instead just use the the two wires, which are the AC power.

So I don't have any DC and will need to do any LED light mods working from the AC circuit.

Wew, I never would have guessed something this simple would have had multiple documentation oddities!


----------



## mats

I´m in the planing phase for upgrading my Ariens Pro 28.
However to make it a little more challenging the following requirements have to be meet:
* no modification of original cables
* no new holes drilled
* The original light shall be switchable on/off
* Extra lights shall be switchable on/off
* The new lights shall not overload the stator even if the warmers are used

Fair challenge?

So far I have started to order parts
Led to replace the original halogen bulb https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJ9MZH0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extension wire that will be cut and used to connect to original wiring 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SFDHJBF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AC-DC converter to provide power to new led lights
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07TSLQVKZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I already have a fuse holder + 3A fuse

I haven't decided on exact led lights or their placement but using the holes intended for the extra weight seems likely at the moment. Rocker switches and their assembly also remains


----------



## Coby7

So you're going to run a 50 Watt bulb with a 36 Watt converter???


----------



## mats

Coby7 said:


> So you're going to run a 50 Watt bulb with a 36 Watt converter???


It may seem like that, as I said I like a callenge 
No, in reality this line is the key - "Max Capacity: 50W; *Operate at 10W*" and if you go to the wendors page https://www.jdmastar.com/product/240/Max-50W-881-Fog-Light-LED-Bulbs-Set-of-2.html they say 8 Watts. Someone has used it on their Ariens machine https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qbegrrqux53m8y/2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf?dl=0 and it used under 4 watts leaving a surplus of 16 for new lights


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## Coby7

K so it's 50W equivalent lighting not actual consumption.


----------



## mats

Something like that 
60W from the engine - 30W for the warmers means we be on -20 if the led needed 50W 
Im planing on 2X9 or 2X12W as add on lights (I can get them locally for an acceptable price)


----------



## Bakeram1

The LED lights I bought off of Amazon typically use only about 1/2 of the watts advertised. Might be that the stator only puts out ~18V and lights are rated to 36V. Anyway, that should give you a little move ‘overhead’ with available power. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ericr

I'm still learning about these new LED lights. I noticed that at least some of them can operate off AC or DC, where the following LED light description states "Built-in IC Circuit of wide Voltage Range 10-30V AC to prevent LED Bulbs from being damaged by voltage variation and spikes.":
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HGRPCH4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1R8FZ1OZTF048&psc=1

That is very convenient for someone looking to simply get a brighter light bulb in the stock location, without having to do any new wiring or worry about a rectifier.

But I noticed other (brighter) options that do not explicitly state that they can operate off of AC. An example is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HKSLMSB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3B95GPSECAW75&psc=1

Can all these new LED lights operate off AC or DC, or is that a special feature only on some of them?

I would just get the first one above, but the second one is brighter, for the same price.


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## tabora

ericr said:


> "Built-in IC Circuit of wide Voltage Range 10-30V AC to prevent LED Bulbs from being damaged by voltage variation and spikes."


It appears that these have the necessary circuitry to work on A/C.



ericr said:


> But I noticed other (brighter) options that do not explicitly state that they can operate off of AC.


These do not, so probably D/C only.



ericr said:


> Can all these new LED lights operate off AC or DC, or is that a special feature only on some of them?


Only the ones with the onboard circuitry are suitable for A/C use. Another clue is if they state that they're iBus/CanBus compatible, which also requires onboard circuitry.


----------



## mats

Bakeram1 said:


> The LED lights I bought off of Amazon typically use only about 1/2 of the watts advertised. Might be that the stator only puts out ~18V and lights are rated to 36V. Anyway, that should give you a little move ‘overhead’ with available power.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As usual - it depends 

A normal led actually just needs about 2V. The rest is filtering and stabilization so if it says 9-36V it should give the same amount of light and consume about the same wattage too.


----------



## mats

Got time to install my led light today.
Ariens - why did you make it so that you have to remove the housing to change the bulb?

Well something that should have been a quick tool-less job turned into 20 min in the workshop.
The result ?
A lot better light, roughly about the same class as the old Stiga. Not good enough - Next step will be to more led lights but that will have to wait untill I get the AC-DC konverter


----------



## Ian Ariens 924

I have an Ariens 924334 Pro , with a 11 hp Tecumseh ohsk , 28 “ with a light, hand warmers and a 12 volt starter.
Can I switch the light bulb to anything brighter, like an LED.
Stock bulb is an Ariens # 02465000 .
I can’t find anything on google or ebay or the parts places, just a $20 replacement ,same as I got.

Thanks


----------



## DPete27

*Advice on Gauges*

Thought I'd drop in and leave this here in case it helps anyone.
I came upon this thread while looking for a way to add a light to my MTD snowblower (circa 1996). I wanted a way to regulate the voltage output since most LED lights are rated for 12V. In doing so, I followed most of the shopping list given in the first post but with a slight improvement
Warm White 10W LED Flood Light
KBPC5010 Rectifier
A SINGLE Larger 3300uF Capacitor
Inline Fuse Holder
1A Fuse for my 10W LED
Toggle Switch
*But here's the extra spice: *
DC-DC Converter which functions both as a voltage regulator, but also smooths out what's left of any ripple that comes off the capacitor. Using this, I'm able to tune the voltage very precisely.









The left two wires go to the light. The black wire on the right side is ground. And the red wire on the far right is the fuse -> switch -> strator power.









(Sorry about the strange look of the item links, must be an Amazon thing...)


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: to SBF DPete27

.


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## penna stogey

DPete27 said:


> Thought I'd drop in and leave this here in case it helps anyone.
> I came upon this thread while looking for a way to add a light to my MTD snowblower (circa 1996). I wanted a way to regulate the voltage output since most LED lights are rated for 12V. In doing so, I followed most of the shopping list given in the first post but with a slight improvement
> Warm White 10W LED Flood Light
> KBPC5010 Rectifier
> A SINGLE Larger 3300uF Capacitor
> Inline Fuse Holder
> 1A Fuse for my 10W LED
> Toggle Switch
> *But here's the extra spice: *
> DC-DC Converter which functions both as a voltage regulator, but also smooths out what's left of any ripple that comes off the capacitor. Using this, I'm able to tune the voltage very precisely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left two wires go to the light. The black wire on the right side is ground. And the red wire on the far right is the fuse -> switch -> strator power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Sorry about the strange look of the item links, must be an Amazon thing...)


First informative post needs a hearty welcome..Hearty Welcome. Dpete.


----------



## JnC

So riddle me this, I have installed multiple sets of LEDs over the years on Honda snowblowers but recently I switched to 48W round LEDs for the HS series machines with the 50W/3A output coils. 

I only install an inline 5A fuse, to bridge rectifier to a toggle switch and then to the LED. My recent set up worked fine on the machine at idle but at WOT it burnt some of the LEDs in the array? Any ideas whats going on here?


----------



## thefixer

I think you might have gotten a bad batch of lights. I was getting the cheap lights for jeeps, and a lot of the heavy equipment I work on, I'd buy them 50 at a time. I started getting some bad ones, told the seller, I think this batch was from Ebay, about it and they sent me new ones. On the next batch of 50, I had at least ten go bad and they wanted me to send them back to CHINA!!! I will not buy the cheap ones any more. I'm going with the middle of the road LED's now. I've had excellent results with the Run-D lights from Amazon.


----------



## foggysail

JnC said:


> So riddle me this, I have installed multiple sets of LEDs over the years on Honda snowblowers but recently I switched to 48W round LEDs for the HS series machines with the 50W/3A output coils.
> 
> I only install an inline 5A fuse, to bridge rectifier to a toggle switch and then to the LED. My recent set up worked fine on the machine at idle but at WOT it burnt some of the LEDs in the array? Any ideas whats going on here?


I will share some ideas because there is more than one reason for the lights to have gone belly up. The first has to do with applying too great a voltage...DC that is. Now IF you connected your leds to AC, that is another matter. Remember, led’s are diodes that allow current to flow only in one direction. So the rational now is, ‘’heck, forget about the negative half cycle of the AC voltage because the led will only allow current to flow in one direction.’’ OK so far although as in all things, there are ‘’BUTS!’’

The reverse voltage capability of the led may EXCEED the led’s rating......if there is any published rating. Back to ‘’BUTS!’’ If that is the cause for failure simply place a rectifier diode or any diode with both the rated current and voltage in series with the led. DON’T WORRY about the added polarity of the diode.....it will work or will not work. If not, simply reverse the diode’s connections and things should be OK.

The problem with connecting an led to AC is the amount of energized time/cycle is one half what it would be using DC. No matter if aC or DC, you should have a current limiting resistor in series with the led which could otherwise act as a short with nothing there to limit the current when the led is lighted.


----------



## classiccat

By chance were you using the toggle switch when the lights started popping?

The no-load peak voltage can get quite high... unless you're going into a regulator, you're better off eliminating the toggle on these systems.


----------



## JnC

Thanks for the input guys, it seems like the LEDs do not like anything more than 12V. I ripped the nice wire loom and heat shrink to see if there was an issue with my wiring but everything looks good. On the work bench they are fine when supplied with a 12V constant, on the blower they are fine when the machine is at idle, its only when I apply WOT is when the LEDs start burning out. Is there a small 12V voltage regulator that can be installed to make sure the lights dont get any more than 12V power supply?

It seems like the coil can produce as much as 20V at peak, checking out the video below posted by another forum member.


----------



## thefixer

These bulbs are AC/DC and work very well.


----------



## JnC

So, I blew two LEDs from a batch of dozen or so that I got in this order, really bummed me out as I like the output from these particular LEDs, they are 48W which is 2W shy of the factory 50W output from the coils, the color is nice and white rather than the bluish hue that you get from most ebay LEDs. 

Today I gutted the set up, changed the bridge rectifier, changed the rocker switch, changed the LED to one from a different batch, the other ones are rated to be 48W as well, that set up yielded the same result, the LEDs got blown right away. Hooked up the multimeter and the output was erratic it was bouncing all over the place from 2V to 18V and was not steady at all. I installed the OE halogen light on the unit and that one wouldnt work either, so currently I am in the process of swapping the OE coils with a spare pair I have, that SHOULD solve the issue as the old coils were most likely bad. 

Updates to come.


----------



## Pauly1971

Does the wire for the heated grips also connect to this set up ?


----------



## penna stogey

Good info.Thx


----------



## Coby7

JnC said:


> Is there a small 12V voltage regulator that can be installed to make sure the lights don't get any more than 12V power supply?


I use a lot of small DC-DC step down modules. They are small, cheap and very efficient. You can usually set the output to what you want. You could set it to 12 to14 volts if your LEDs will tolerate and leave it. Here's an example. I'm not saying to buy this particular one, but you can find the one that best suits your need. 









3.65US $ 3% OFF|1pcs/lot Dc Cc 9a 300w Step Down Buck Converter 5-40v To 1.2-35v Module - Integrated Circuits - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com


----------



## nycredneck

Bought my lights at Harbor Freight then did the mod by following Donyboy 73 on youtube. I put two lights on my Ariens and so far so good. Gotta love that Donyboy. I used a small hobby box under the dash for rectifier and capacitors hiding the wiring and it came out great, very neat and clean looking.


----------



## Jjshires10

Looking to install a led light bar on my 28in craftsman snowblower. It has an ac (black cord) and a dc (red wire) coming out. On the multimeter it was showing 14 volts on the dc very regularly. I ordered a 12in led light bat that's was rated for 9 to 30 v dc. It is 72watt light. I have power to my toggle switch but the light wont turn on at all. Did I get a light with to many watts? Attached is the picture of the light. Any ideas on how to get this to work?


----------



## SilentHatch

Believe you will need to use a bridge rectifier to get the AC to convert to negative DC. Unless you already did that.

Got a picture or two on your setup and wiring? Or a wiring diagram if you drew one of those?


Welcome to the forum!


----------



## Jjshires10

SilentHatch said:


> Believe you will need to use a bridge rectifier to get the AC to convert to negative DC. Unless you already did that.
> 
> Got a picture or two on your setup and wiring? Or a wiring diagram if you drew one of those?
> 
> I attached a picture of what I have. I got the light working fine today, and even ran it 3 to 4 different times. The last time I ran it about 5 to 10 minutes then shut off the light and turned it back on and it wont work now. My wire going to the light is showing 11 volts dc, but where the wire connects to the light only about 1 volt. Not sure if i fried the light or the light went bad. Wondering for ideas on what it could be and if I need to add anything to the circuit.


----------



## SilentHatch

Hopefully tabora or one of the other juggernauts of info can tag in on this, I'm not 100% sure on next steps


----------



## underp2

In think 72 Watts is more than the snowblower generator can supply.


----------



## underp2

Do you know the output of the generator? Some after only 18 Watts or so. When you find this out, subtract the power consumption of anything else you may have (heated hand grips, electric chute, etc). Don't go over that amount when you order a light. The output is rated at full throttle, so idle will reduce it.


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## Coby7

No way the generator will power a 72W light bar. Did you plan on jacking deer or something? If 20 Watts of LED lighting doesn't light your driveway enough in front of you, you may need cataract surgery. 

To check your generator to see if you need a bridge rectifier take a multimeter if you have one and measure the DC output then switch your meter to AC and measure the AC component. If you have 12 volts of AC riding on the DC you may need a bridge and a capacitor.


----------



## Jjshires10

Still working on it here. Worked again for about 5 min then shut off. I have to connect the light to my car battery everytime it stops stops working. Once I plug it back into the snowblower for a bit it works then shuts off. Check the multimeter again and I am getting ac and dc to register. How can you tell if it I'd ac or dc? Guessing I may need a bridge rectifier. Any good ones you know of?
Thanks for all the help.


----------



## Coby7

Yeah that will never work. That generator is half bridge rectified ( single diode ), You will need a full bridge rectifier to get that AC component out.

Pure AC










Half bridge... half AC half DC which is about what you are getting as a reading.










Full bridge ( 4 diodes )










Full bridge whit capacitor










Bigger capacitor















All Rectifier Bridge 0 5A 50A 200V 1200V KBU8 KBPC GBPC Pont de diode for sale | eBay


Find great deals on eBay for All Rectifier Bridge 0 5A 50A 200V 1200V KBU8 KBPC GBPC Pont de diode. Shop with confidence.



www.ebay.ca





A KBPC1510 is over kill but it has a hole so you can mount it and 4 blade so you can connect with lugs.


----------



## my87csx481

mats said:


> According to 2018_Ariens_Platinum_30_SHO_LED_Light_Upgrade.pdf the handwarmers needs 30W so 2x18 is to much if you want to use them at the same time as the warmers


Anyone know if the DC switch (chosen by the author of the linked article) can be wired using AC current for the original headlight circuit? (thanks for posting the link, btw) If so, how to connect properly without fire hazards?

The long story: I am planning to run a replacement LED bulb in the original headlight position off of the original AC power. But I'd like to be able to switch it on and off. I purchased the DC switches in that article before I realized that I will be powering the headlight with AC voltage. I don't care if the switch's illumination works. Just wondering if it's ok to use the switch....or should I just find a non-illuminated switch (not an easy task....I've already tried).


----------



## SilentHatch

You should be fine as long as you use a full-wave bridge rectifier to go from AC to DC power as almost all LEDs are DC power.


Also, any toggle switch (I prefer marine for the environment they are in) will work, if you were looking for non-illuminated. There are several on Amazon for not much of a cost.


----------



## my87csx481

I WILL NOT be using a bridge rectifier, or an AC to DC converter for the replacement LED headlight bulb. The bulb I am using has circuitry to handle running off AC voltage.

I WILL be using an AC to DC converter for an LED light bar. 

The illuminated switches in that article (that I already have) are DC rated, and have wiring diagrams for DC. My reason for not running the headlight off of DC from the converter is because the converter I have is not rated for high enough continuous amperage to run the headlight and the light bar at the same time.

I did not realize my "plan" would change into running the headlight off AC, when I made my purchases. If I wire the DC switch with AC, what will happen to the LED's that light up the illuminated switch? Nothing? Work as expected? Flicker? Catch fire eventually?

Maybe I should just eat the cost of the coverter and get a larger capacity one.


----------



## SilentHatch

What would happen is (down and dirty version) the lights would flicker while the AC power follows the path of the sine wave

Ac power is like turning the power on and off really fast, many times per second


----------



## Nick Bubak

I have a pretty good mechanical knowledge, electrical is not my strong suit, but I can still make things work. I have a 2016 Poulan Pro PR270 with a 254cc LCT PW2HK engine (which I believe is an Ariens engine?). From my research, I believe the charging coil on my machine is 60W AC, my model does not have heated grips, only a single light. At full throttle the amperage reading of the light circuit is 1.402A with a voltage reading of 13.38V, which calculates out to 18.75W. Now I have never claimed to be a smart man, but where is the other 41.25 watts??

I’m looking at adding 2 18W 1200 lumen 4” LEDs, input voltage of 9-30v. If my charging coil is truly 60 W then I should be fine, correct??


----------



## RIT333

Your other 41 watts are just sitting on their butt waiting for you to install the 36 watts of lights. Then there will only be 5 watts sitting on their butt. But, are you positive you have a 60 watt generator ? I ask, because engine manufacturers don't usually oversize their equipment to have a bunch of watts sitting on their butts.


----------



## Nick Bubak

I’m not 100% positive, but I did some research on the model/serial numbers engraved into the side of the engine block, and found my particular model has a 60W AC charging coil.


----------



## pjohnson

After reading many many posts I took the plunge and added lights to my Simplicity Snowblower.
Some may comment on the placement. I re-used existing holes. Use will tell me if I need to relocate them. If you are hesitant to add them, don't wait any longer. It was an easy add!


----------



## 140278

you did limit your self to how deep a pile you can enter with that placement ,something better might be making a cross bracket between the sides that places the light over the auger bucket like a cross bar drift cutter toro sells


----------



## Oneacer

Yeah, I am always cutting into snow banks .... those lights off the side of the bucket would be gone in a heart beat.

Better to install them back up on the handle bar bracket area.


----------



## robs9

I would have mounted them on the top of the bucket. You just killed your drift curing ability. But otherwise looks like a nice install. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## pjohnson

Very valid points. I left enough slack in the wiring to relocate them and I am a bit ocd about clearing the driveway. I will go out multiple times to keep ahead of the storm. Also, I am lucky enough to have another option for the heavy stuff.


----------



## robs9

I want one of those!! 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Desmo

I've got the 12 volt battery start 1332 Pro. So no need for bridge rectifiers & capacitors. I'll run wires and relay from the battery to a 70 watt lightbars mounted to the bucket. There is already a plug & play Luyed 
900 Lumens superbright 3014 led that fits in the stock 808 or 880 socket headlight. That also isn't 
hooked to a bridge rectifier and capacitor. It doesn't 
ficker but is a higher temperature and therefore whiter than the original halogen, which I think is similar to an H1. It would probably be a lot brighter than the halogen if hooked to a rectifier to convert to DC, but I'm going to disconnect from the wiring which I think runs off the alternator and hook to my battery circuit with the lightbar, along with a switch,
which will be DC. I guess the hand grips are also run off the stator and I'll probably leave that alone
Stephen


----------



## CanadianMan

New kid here, came across this forum and thread while looking to add light to my old blower.

Over the last 4 days, I read Every. Single. Post...  7 years and 1,391 posts later, and I gotta say - what a ride!

It's awesome the work, energy and thought some of you put into this thread. Discussions ranged all over the place, from electrical theory to safety, and most impressive - only once or twice did I notice any of the usual internet snark!

Thank you _very_ much to the original poster, as well as the other 3 or 4 really knowledgeable people who have taken up the torch over the years and kept everyone safe and answered their questions.

I'm waiting on parts, but I'm going to give this a go with an old led I picked up at a garage sale. I will say this for anyone who finds this thread after me - it's not really necessary to read the entire thread 

Most of the essential information is contained in the first 10 pages and the last 10-15. The stuff in between is some great theory, and a lot of discussion about specific blower models (try searching for your model). 

If you're not sure if you need the capacitors, filters, rectifier and fuses - I would say why not? If you can afford it, it won't hurt anything, and several people who tried without have come back to say one or more of those components actually _was_ required 

Later, near the end of the thread, a suggestion is made to add a DC-DC Voltage regulator - while not strictly necessary, I would say this will increase your odds of success as well as ensuring compatibility with the widest range of lights.

Once I get my parts and have some time maybe I'll put together a summary/updated generic how-to.

Once again - thanks to all who contributed to this thread, I've learned a lot!


----------



## Bulldogsz24

Well I originally posted this in the Cub Cadet forum, but thought I'd duplicate it here just for ideas to others. My FIL gave me his 3x (probably 3-4 years old). I had done the rectifier and lights on my previous snowblower, but new blower means new setup!

So I followed the wiring diagram previously posted in the "My led project" topic, I also installed a couple of lighted switches, one for factory light (converted to LED), one for floods. I mounted my project box using a horizontal bar clamp mount, I had originally thought about mounting my lights on these, (they also make a vertical mount) but then came up with the drift cutter design and couldn't be happier! 

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MXQCOWI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share






















A buddy of mine builds custom motorcycles, so he was nice enough to make me these awesome light mounts from my little cardboard prototype. I didn't want to drill holes, so figured why not use the drift cutter mount! Works awesome, and I could actually still mount the drift cutters if I wanted to.












(This was before he welded it up, cleaned it up and powder coated it for me) it fits PERFECTLY!

I mounted the light up switches just to the inside of each hand grip











Here is the wire routing and finished light mounts































Waited until dark, and snapped some pics. I'm not sure if the normal factory light is usually this pathetic, or if the led doesn't utilize the halogen light housing properly to project it, but this is the factory light only (but an led)











But REALLY happy with the forward mounted led's!!










Here's with both sets of lights on










Haven't used it yet, as you can see we have been lucky in that department so far!


----------



## SilentHatch

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, here's a real crude sketch I just did showing how I have things wired up.



I think this image should be added to the first post @superedge88

Super helpful wiring diagram done by @JRHAWK9


----------



## Icarus

How can I tell how big/type of an LED I can put on my snowblower? Mine doesn't have anything but a tiny little Lamp #1295 on it and its not bright at all. I have a small 18W LED work light that I tried to hook up directly to the wires instead of the 1295 but its very dim too. Would having a bridge rectifier on it help or what do you think my options are?
Mines on older YardWorks 8.5HPTecu/27" 31AE6GKG515...


----------



## kd8tzc

nycredneck said:


> Bought my lights at Harbor Freight then did the mod by following Donyboy 73 on youtube. I put two lights on my Ariens and so far so good. Gotta love that Donyboy. I used a small hobby box under the dash for rectifier and capacitors hiding the wiring and it came out great, very neat and clean looking.


@nycredneck , do you have a link to his youtube video?


----------



## Icarus

How can I tell how big/type of an LED I can put on my snowblower? Mine doesn't have anything but a tiny little Lamp #1295 on it and its not bright at all. I have a small 18W LED work light that I tried to hook up directly to the wires instead of the 1295 but its very dim too. Would having a bridge rectifier on it help or what do you think my options are?
Mines on older YardWorks 8.5HPTecu/27" 31AE6GKG515...


----------



## tabora

Icarus said:


> Mines on older YardWorks 8.5HPTecu/27" 31AE6GKG515


You'll need to get your engine model & serial numbers and then look up what lighting coil your engine is equipped with.


----------



## Icarus

tabora said:


> You'll need to get your engine model & serial numbers and then look up what lighting coil your engine is equipped with.


Thanks, I'll see what I can find.


----------



## Icarus

Does this help? LH318SA/LH358SA
Probably just easier getting a battery powered one that clips on though eh?
Thxs


----------



## OLDTMR

Bulldogsz24 said:


> Well I originally posted this in the Cub Cadet forum, but thought I'd duplicate it here just for ideas to others. My FIL gave me his 3x (probably 3-4 years old). I had done the rectifier and lights on my previous snowblower, but new blower means new setup!
> 
> So I followed the wiring diagram previously posted in the "My led project" topic, I also installed a couple of lighted switches, one for factory light (converted to LED), one for floods. I mounted my project box using a horizontal bar clamp mount, I had originally thought about mounting my lights on these, (they also make a vertical mount) but then came up with the drift cutter design and couldn't be happier!
> 
> Lightronic LED Off-Road Light Horizontal Bar Clamp Mounting Kit 0.75"/ 1"/ 1.25" for Light Bar Bull Bar Tube Clamp Roof Roll Cage Holder Includes Allen Hex Key, Light Bars - Amazon Canada
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> A buddy of mine builds custom motorcycles, so he was nice enough to make me these awesome light mounts from my little cardboard prototype. I didn't want to drill holes, so figured why not use the drift cutter mount! Works awesome, and I could actually still mount the drift cutters if I wanted to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (This was before he welded it up, cleaned it up and powder coated it for me) it fits PERFECTLY!
> 
> I mounted the light up switches just to the inside of each hand grip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Here is the wire routing and finished light mounts
> 
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> 
> Waited until dark, and snapped some pics. I'm not sure if the normal factory light is usually this pathetic, or if the led doesn't utilize the halogen light housing properly to project it, but this is the factory light only (but an led)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But REALLY happy with the forward mounted led's!!
> 
> 
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> 
> Here's with both sets of lights on
> 
> View attachment 170939
> 
> 
> Haven't used it yet, as you can see we have been lucky in that department so far!


When I get around to doing this, I'm sold on the bucket mount. No shadow area and you can see exactly what is just about to go into the auger. A light that shines 50 feet out is nice for lining up your path, but between the chute and the bucket, handlebar mounts have that shadow. Might consider whether one light mounted on one side favoring the chute, and another mounted to the handlebar area offset to the opposite side would be ideal. I gotta find out how much juice I have LOL.-Mike


----------



## SilentHatch

Icarus said:


> Does this help? LH318SA/LH358SA
> Probably just easier getting a battery powered one that clips on though eh?
> Thxs


What make/model on your blower?
Either me or Andy will be able to help out if you can provide that.

My Honda HS828 pumps out 50 watts, so I have 2 18W LEDs on mine, but in order to run the LED, you gotta turn off the original light. So on my dad's blower I have three switches wired in, one to use original light, one to turn on LED (but kills the original light), and then the third one only turns on the second LED if the first light is on.

For my Honda, just have two switches since it didn't have a light, but did have the stator.

Welcome to the forums, hope we can get you situated.

-Jim


----------



## SilentHatch

OLDTMR said:


> When I get around to doing this, I'm sold on the bucket mount. No shadow area and you can see exactly what is just about to go into the auger. A light that shines 50 feet out is nice for lining up your path, but between the chute and the bucket, handlebar mounts have that shadow. Might consider whether one light mounted on one side favoring the chute, and another mounted to the handlebar area offset to the opposite side would be ideal. I gotta find out how much juice I have LOL.-Mike



Post up your snowblower make and model and any serial numbers or stator parts numbers that you can find and those of us that can help will try to help.

I personally have two LEDs mounted on my Honda HS828 (manufactured November 1994, about 3 years after I was born hahaha), with one on the bucket in front of the chute, and one on the handle, next to the chute trajectory tilt handle.

The hardest part has been to stop the wet snow from ripping out the wire, but I zip tied plenty of slack in this year and no issues so far.

Welcome to the forums, hope to get you going with lights on your blower!!


----------



## kd8tzc

CanadianMan said:


> Once I get my parts and have some time maybe I'll put together a summary/updated generic how-to.


I'd love to see that as I don't really have the time to read though all of it and it might be the only way for me to accomplish this. The light I have works okay, but adding something brighter would really be nice.


----------



## Darby

kd8tzc said:


> I'd love to see that as I don't really have the time to read though all of it and it might be the only way for me to accomplish this. The light I have works okay, but adding something brighter would really be nice.


Years ago I threw a light on my blower, which had no electric accessories except 110v starter. I found a lead dangling there with juice on it and took that single lead up to a cowl mounted 4" round light. I'm sure I would have metered the lead at the time but do not remember. 
Reading this thread got the juices flowing and I've ordered a new LED lamp and the rectifier, caps, and switch. Here is where it gets stoopid. I just went out to look over the machine. I noticed existing lite was not connected to a single black lead from the stator, but rather a red lead. Hmm. So I got my ample posterior down closer and found mounted under the starter, a box with red and yellow leads.... a regulator? You gotta be kidding me. So i guess I could have a 5A or 9A stator from reading briggs material. Tomorrow I will put a meter to it. So I do not need the rectifing bridge or capacitors I ordered? Doh





















.


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## SilentHatch

kd8tzc said:


> I'd love to see that as I don't really have the time to read though all of it and it might be the only way for me to accomplish this. The light I have works okay, but adding something brighter would really be nice.



Here's what I did on my dad's snowblower a few years ago.. pics aren't the greatest, nor is the write-up, but hopefully it gets you where you need to be for completion.



http://imgur.com/a/lRv12


Only things I've changed in this on my honda are: I just added the 1 capacitor I had, and used 14g wire with plenty of slack so I could zip tie in the slack, and I only used direct connections for wire to wire connections, and spade or hoop connectors for switch connections, everything is soldered and heatwrapped.


----------



## SnowBoy1977

Hey guys,

Any help wiring the Toro Powermax HD? 
(in my case the 1428, model 38843 with 420cc engine)

Specifically:

A. What is the surplus electrical output of the stator (so I can get correct power LED light)?​​B. What wiring and components are known to function with this platform?​​But really, any insight into wiring LEDs into recent Toro's would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

PS: tried searching this thread and the net, but no luck.

PSS: Toro part number for stator is 121-4108. This engine is apparently made by Loncin (China) and their part number is 270210023-T111

Toro link:





Parts – Power Max Commercial 1428 OHXE Snowthrower | Toro







www.toro.com





Loncin link:





Engine







loncinindustries.com


----------



## Miklo99

Hello everyone happy New Year’s. I bought all the supplies needed and have read up on common snow blowers but haven’t seen anything about EFI’s. I started the attempt on wiring but was puzzled by some extra wires. My snowblower is an Ariens 24” SHO platinum EFI. Any help with schematics?


----------



## SilentHatch

Miklo99 said:


> Hello everyone happy New Year’s. I bought all the supplies needed and have read up on common snow blowers but haven’t seen anything about EFI’s. I started the attempt on wiring but was puzzled by some extra wires. My snowblower is an Ariens 24” SHO platinum EFI. Any help with schematics?


Got any pictures of your setup and the wires that are confusing you?

I'll try to take some time to look up the wiring diagrams if you can get some pictures.






SnowBoy1977 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Any help wiring the Toro Powermax HD?
> (in my case the 1428, model 38843 with 420cc engine)
> 
> Specifically:
> 
> A. What is the surplus electrical output of the stator (so I can get correct power LED light)?​​B. What wiring and components are known to function with this platform?​​But really, any insight into wiring LEDs into recent Toro's would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> PS: tried searching this thread and the net, but no luck.
> 
> PSS: Toro part number for stator is 121-4108. This engine is apparently made by Loncin (China) and their part number is 270210023-T111
> 
> Toro link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts – Power Max Commercial 1428 OHXE Snowthrower | Toro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.toro.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loncin link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> loncinindustries.com


Does your Toro already have a halogen light? I'll also try to dig around to see if I can find anything for your machine.


----------



## SnowBoy1977

SilentHatch said:


> Does your Toro already have a halogen light? I'll also try to dig around to see if I can find anything for your machine.


Thank you very much. It does have a factory installed LED. I would like to mount twin LEDs preferably with higher total output. I can fabricate a mount, looking for wide area lighting. Price is no object. Whatever you come up with I will try.


----------



## kd8tzc

Miklo99 said:


> Hello everyone happy New Year’s. I bought all the supplies needed and have read up on common snow blowers but haven’t seen anything about EFI’s. I started the attempt on wiring but was puzzled by some extra wires. My snowblower is an Ariens 24” SHO platinum EFI. Any help with schematics?


@Miklo99 , I'm interested to see what you bought and how you do this as I have the exact same machine.


----------



## SilentHatch

SnowBoy1977 said:


> Thank you very much. It does have a factory installed LED. I would like to mount twin LEDs preferably with higher total output. I can fabricate a mount, looking for wide area lighting. Price is no object. Whatever you come up with I will try.



What's your serial number?

@SnowBoy1977 

I spent an hour or so trying to find some information, please read below..

Try going to this website, entering the model (38843) and your serial number:


Operator’s Manuals, Parts Catalogs, and Service Bulletins



It looks like this









And this is the result page:










But I get the same results there that I can get from the main Toro page, which only have the parts number and no specifications.

My next suggestion is to either call up or send your dealer an email and ask them what the specifications for the ignition coil / stator coil / flywheel are and what wattage do they output, and while you're at it, ask them what the light 138-0670 specifications are.
While waiting for that, I'd look up the light part number and then whatever wattage that is, look on amazon for two LEDs that combined will require less power than that light does now.


If anyone else on the forum knows a place to get Toro service manuals or specifications, that would be a great resource.


----------



## SilentHatch

Miklo99 said:


> Hello everyone happy New Year’s. I bought all the supplies needed and have read up on common snow blowers but haven’t seen anything about EFI’s. I started the attempt on wiring but was puzzled by some extra wires. My snowblower is an Ariens 24” SHO platinum EFI. Any help with schematics?





kd8tzc said:


> @Miklo99 , I'm interested to see what you bought and how you do this as I have the exact same machine.



Hi,

From reading here;
https://www.snowblowersdirect.com/manuals/2d871c19fb6d37d64b7495245f29d664.pdf 

it looks like the LED on the blower is 20W, part number 00432600 according to below image:









And then earlier, on page EN - 8, I see these items listed, a Headlight & Handwarmer Fuse - 7.5 Amp

















I'm not sure what extra wires you're seeing, but maybe you can use a multimeter on the current circuits and see what they are actually pulling for wattage / amperage and we could go from there.

Again, I'm not an expert, but just trying to help out.

No quick luck on finding a wiring diagram, but hopefully someone on this forum is able to access them or knows where they are.


----------



## Miklo99

kd8tzc said:


> @Miklo99 , I'm interested to see what you bought and how you do this as I have the exact same machine.


I was running around today being New Year’s Day. I’ll post the pictures of my set up tomorrow and I’ll keep you informed on how everything goes once all is said and done.


----------



## SnowBoy1977

SilentHatch said:


> What's your serial number?
> 
> @SnowBoy1977
> 
> I spent an hour or so trying to find some information, please read below..
> 
> Try going to this website, entering the model (38843) and your serial number:
> 
> 
> Operator’s Manuals, Parts Catalogs, and Service Bulletins
> 
> 
> 
> But I get the same results there that I can get from the main Toro page, which only have the parts number and no specifications.
> 
> My next suggestion is to either call up or send your dealer an email and ask them what the specifications for the ignition coil / stator coil / flywheel are and what wattage do they output, and while you're at it, ask them what the light 138-0670 specifications are.
> While waiting for that, I'd look up the light part number and then whatever wattage that is, look on amazon for two LEDs that combined will require less power than that light does now.
> 
> 
> If anyone else on the forum knows a place to get Toro service manuals or specifications, that would be a great resource.


Thank you very much. The serial is 404325204. I will try your suggestion and contact the dealer.


----------



## Miklo99

SilentHatch said:


> Got any pictures of your setup and the wires that are confusing you?
> 
> I'll try to take some time to look up the wiring diagrams if you can get some pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does your Toro already have a halogen light? I'll also try to dig around to see if I can find anything for your machine.





Miklo99 said:


> Hello everyone happy New Year’s. I bought all the supplies needed and have read up on common snow blowers but haven’t seen anything about EFI’s. I started the attempt on wiring but was puzzled by some extra wires. My snowblower is an Ariens 24” SHO platinum EFI. Any help with schematics?


Here are pictures of my current set up. 1st & 2nd picture show the wires coming out of the engine. That’s where I planned on getting my power from. 3rd and 4th picture are another set of wires coming from the other side of engine. Any thoughts?


----------



## SilentHatch

Miklo99 said:


> Here are pictures of my current set up. 1st & 2nd picture show the wires coming out of the engine. That’s where I planned on getting my power from. 3rd and 4th picture are another set of wires coming from the other side of engine. Any thoughts?



Thank you for the pictures, I traced some of the wires and it looks like the yellow is the positive wire for your hand warmers as I see a yellow/black running to each side. So if you tap into the red/black wires (or use the harness at point of LED) you should be good to just wire in the new lights. That last picture says it runs LED lights under 180W @ 12VDC.. which leads me to ask if you have a battery on your blower to power the lights (and based on the reading) The other wires coming off the left side of the blower look to me like they would be charging a battery.

EDIT: As always, test the circuit with the light on to see what amperage you pull before wiring in anything different @Miklo99 but notice that coming off the stator is just the normal red/black, and then they have the plugs so they get the black & red/yellow


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## kd8tzc

Miklo99 said:


> Here are pictures of my current set up. 1st & 2nd picture show the wires coming out of the engine. That’s where I planned on getting my power from. 3rd and 4th picture are another set of wires coming from the other side of engine. Any thoughts?


I'm not seeing a rectifier in the photos. Did you get one?


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## SilentHatch

kd8tzc said:


> I'm not seeing a rectifier in the photos. Did you get one?


I don't think that he has modified anything yet, if I'm understanding his post correctly.


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## Miklo99

kd8tzc said:


> I'm not seeing a rectifier in the photos. Did you get one?


Yes sorry I thought I posted it


----------



## kd8tzc

Miklo99 said:


> Yes sorry I thought I posted it


As you do this, any chance you can itemize out the parts you had to buy (and specs for the rectifier and caps). Just curious... is that switch water resistant since it will more than likely get covered in snow that will melt and possibly could get inside it?


----------



## Evan

Hey everyone,

First time posting.

I am looking to add some LED lights to my MTD Yard Machine snow blower.

I have put together a list of things from amazon that I would like to use to install them:


Wiring Harnesshttps://www.amazon.ca/Primelux-Rela...WATERPROOF&qid=1608222965&s=automotive&sr=1-4LED Light BarAUXTINGS 2 Pieces 7 inch 30W Ultra Slim Single Row LED Light Bar Flood Beam with Mounting Bracket For Off road Chevrolet Ford GMC Jeep Ranger ATV UTV SUV, Light Bars - Amazon CanadaAC/DC ConverterStep Down Converter Power Converter Waterproof Step Down Volt Converter AC 10-28V to DC 12V Buck Converter AC-DC Step Down Power Module(5A): Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement


I chose the wiring harness because it came with a waterproof connector, switch and enough wire to complete the job.
I chose the LED lights for their low profile and wattage.
I chose this because it fit within the voltage range I want to work in and it is already contained in a waterproof housing.

Here's a wiring diagram that I put together, I show the relay in the diagram but I am not 100% sure that I am going to use it:










I'm mainly concerned about the AC/DC converter but I am wondering if anybody out there has any input!


----------



## SilentHatch

Evan said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> First time posting.
> 
> I am looking to add some LED lights to my MTD Yard Machine snow blower.
> 
> I have put together a list of things from amazon that I would like to use to install them:
> 
> 
> Wiring Harnesshttps://www.amazon.ca/Primelux-Rela...WATERPROOF&qid=1608222965&s=automotive&sr=1-4LED Light BarAUXTINGS 2 Pieces 7 inch 30W Ultra Slim Single Row LED Light Bar Flood Beam with Mounting Bracket For Off road Chevrolet Ford GMC Jeep Ranger ATV UTV SUV, Light Bars - Amazon CanadaAC/DC ConverterStep Down Converter Power Converter Waterproof Step Down Volt Converter AC 10-28V to DC 12V Buck Converter AC-DC Step Down Power Module(5A): Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
> 
> 
> I chose the wiring harness because it came with a waterproof connector, switch and enough wire to complete the job.
> I chose the LED lights for their low profile and wattage.
> I chose this because it fit within the voltage range I want to work in and it is already contained in a waterproof housing.
> 
> Here's a wiring diagram that I put together, I show the relay in the diagram but I am not 100% sure that I am going to use it:
> 
> View attachment 173392
> 
> 
> I'm mainly concerned about the AC/DC converter but I am wondering if anybody out there has any input!



Welcome!

What's the alternator on your machine put out for wattage? That's really what's going to drive your power going to the Light Bar(s). Are you adding one or both?


----------



## Dpach

Did mine 4 years ago. Checked my stator’s output, made sure I was under it and ended up using two 9 watt LEDs (my factory halogen bulb is a 20 watt so I knew I would be safe). Changed the factory switch to a double throw so know I can use the factory halogen or the LEDs. Of course I used a bridge rectifier and two capacitors to prevent any flickering. Everything is tucked up under the dash and LEDs are mounted on the corners of the bars. Has worked out great.


----------



## Darby

SilentHatch said:


> Welcome!
> 
> What's the alternator on your machine put out for wattage? That's really what's going to drive your power going to the Light Bar(s). Are you adding one or both?





Dpach said:


> Did mine 4 years ago. Checked my stator’s output, made sure I was under it and ended up using two 9 watt LEDs (my factory halogen bulb is a 20 watt so I knew I would be safe). Changed the factory switch to a double throw so know I can use the factory halogen or the LEDs. Of course I used a bridge rectifier and two capacitors to prevent any flickering. Everything is tucked up under the dash and LEDs are mounted on the corners of the bars. Has worked out great.


I mounted two 27 watt led lights.(I over bought by accident) The blower never had factory light but did have a regulator. Nice. Very bright. I was surprised stator gave me enough juice. I added a switch So far no problems. No flicker. Its all fused but I need to add a real fuse holder which I didnt have, and aim the lights down.


----------



## JnC

Had some spare time this weekend, set up a few of these for future use. The hobby boxes I usually use are big enough for caps and the rectifier but since the new LEDs require a step down convertor I had to squeeze it in there as well, its a tight fit to say the least .


----------



## kd8tzc

JnC said:


> Had some spare time this weekend, set up a few of these for future use. The hobby boxes I usually use are big enough for caps and the rectifier but since the new LEDs require a step down convertor I had to squeeze it in there as well, its a tight fit to say the least .
> 
> View attachment 173549


How much you want for one of those?


----------



## Evan

SilentHatch said:


> Welcome!
> 
> What's the alternator on your machine put out for wattage? That's really what's going to drive your power going to the Light Bar(s). Are you adding one or both?


So I jumped the gun and ended up ordering the parts. I did a quick test I was able to power both lights.

I'm going to try and get it finished over the next couple weekends and I'll post some pics when its finished.


----------



## Darby

Evan said:


> So I jumped the gun and ended up ordering the parts. I did a quick test I was able to power both lights.
> 
> I'm going to try and get it finished over the next couple weekends and I'll post some pics when its finished.


Inspired by a post here, I think Tabora ? I have added reverse light to my blower. I agree it might offer some help, especially with footing while backing up. I used a single 16w LED surface mount on starboard side rear of cowl. Its switched on/off by the position of the shift lever as i used a momentary switch mounted underneath at "R2" shift gate. Kinda kewl.
On in reverse, off in drive..


----------



## Darby

1.6W I missed the dot. 80 lumens.


----------



## sacksyboy

This thread has been both informative and challenging (I am a complete newbie when it comes to ac/dc wiring).

I have a Honda HS928 and have attempted to replace the existing halogen light with an LED bar (ripcord pull start (stator?):
Light Bar 72W
AC/DC TO DC Converter AC 16-28V/DC 16-40V Step Down to 12V/5A
Light Bar Rocker Switch 5Pin

I do not have a diagram, but I am feeling good that I wired it correctly (AC to ground and Smakn, DC +/- to switch and then to lights etc). Is it the fact that the light is 72W and too much for a snowblower (should it be more like 15w?)?

I am still compiling videos/pictures but I am hoping I just fudged the light bar at 72W? Any help is appreciated. The blower starts up with the wiring as configured.


----------



## Evan

sacksyboy said:


> This thread has been both informative and challenging (I am a complete newbie when it comes to ac/dc wiring).
> 
> I have a Honda HS928 and have attempted to replace the existing halogen light with an LED bar (ripcord pull start (stator?):
> Light Bar 72W
> AC/DC TO DC Converter AC 16-28V/DC 16-40V Step Down to 12V/5A
> Light Bar Rocker Switch 5Pin
> 
> I do not have a diagram, but I am feeling good that I wired it correctly (AC to ground and Smakn, DC +/- to switch and then to lights etc). Is it the fact that the light is 72W and too much for a snowblower (should it be more like 15w?)?
> 
> I am still compiling videos/pictures but I am hoping I just fudged the light bar at 72W? Any help is appreciated. The blower starts up with the wiring as configured.


I'm not an expert on this, but it seems like you have a 60w maximum output on your converter and your LED bar is a 72w light. LED's require a minimum supply to produce any light at all so your light may not even light up at all.

Even if your snow blower can output the 72W required, it looks like the converter will limit it to 60w.

Once again, I am not an expert haha. Just something I noticed that might cause you issues.

These are the lights I used for my project which uses a similar converter to yours:



https://www.amazon.ca/AUXTINGS-Pieces-Mounting-Bracket-Chevrolet/dp/B07GXKTTD4/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=light%2Bbar%2B12v+7in&qid=1608223434&s=automotive&sr=1-11


----------



## SilentHatch

sacksyboy said:


> This thread has been both informative and challenging (I am a complete newbie when it comes to ac/dc wiring).
> 
> I have a Honda HS928 and have attempted to replace the existing halogen light with an LED bar (ripcord pull start (stator?):
> Light Bar 72W
> AC/DC TO DC Converter AC 16-28V/DC 16-40V Step Down to 12V/5A
> Light Bar Rocker Switch 5Pin
> 
> I do not have a diagram, but I am feeling good that I wired it correctly (AC to ground and Smakn, DC +/- to switch and then to lights etc). Is it the fact that the light is 72W and too much for a snowblower (should it be more like 15w?)?
> 
> I am still compiling videos/pictures but I am hoping I just fudged the light bar at 72W? Any help is appreciated. The blower starts up with the wiring as configured.


Greetings,

I have a Honda HS828 and my stator only puts out 50W - I find it hard to believe that they would have put in a much stronger stator for a 928, but @tabora or @orangputeh would be able to provide better information.

You are correct in that you are likely asking too much from your system on a 72W light bar... Are you trying to reenact the sun?

I have two 18W flood LEDs with side spill and I get flashed by cars driving by when in my own driveway.. they are off Amazon and I think I paid $34 shipped for them.

The reason I have two 18W lights is so that if I wanted to add small hand warmers, I could do that without overloading my system, though I would likely run with only one light on.

I have one light on the front left of auger housing and the other on right hand side by impeller chute up/down lever.

You should likely be fine if you swap out the 72 for 2 18s or similar.

In case it matters, my LEDs are 4" wide, 2 rows of 3 LEDs.


----------



## sacksyboy

SilentHatch said:


> Greetings,
> 
> I have a Honda HS828 and my stator only puts out 50W - I find it hard to believe that they would have put in a much stronger stator for a 928, but @tabora or @orangputeh would be able to provide better information.
> 
> You are correct in that you are likely asking too much from your system on a 72W light bar... Are you trying to reenact the sun?
> 
> I have two 18W flood LEDs with side spill and I get flashed by cars driving by when in my own driveway.. they are off Amazon and I think I paid $34 shipped for them.
> 
> The reason I have two 18W lights is so that if I wanted to add small hand warmers, I could do that without overloading my system, though I would likely run with only one light on.
> 
> I have one light on the front left of auger housing and the other on right hand side by impeller chute up/down lever.
> 
> You should likely be fine if you swap out the 72 for 2 18s or similar.
> 
> In case it matters, my LEDs are 4" wide, 2 rows of 3 LEDs.


Thank you.
I read somewhere that some 928 Hondas stators only put out 15W - I hope mine is not. I went ahead and ordered 18W pair of flood lights and I am hoping the additional 3W will not cause issues if I have the 15W stator. From the math, I should be using a 1.5amp fuse but I assume they don't have those and I should put a 2amp fuse instead?


----------



## sacksyboy

Evan said:


> I'm not an expert on this, but it seems like you have a 60w maximum output on your converter and your LED bar is a 72w light. LED's require a minimum supply to produce any light at all so your light may not even light up at all.
> 
> Even if your snow blower can output the 72W required, it looks like the converter will limit it to 60w.
> 
> Once again, I am not an expert haha. Just something I noticed that might cause you issues.
> 
> These are the lights I used for my project which uses a similar converter to yours:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/AUXTINGS-Pieces-Mounting-Bracket-Chevrolet/dp/B07GXKTTD4/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=light%2Bbar%2B12v+7in&qid=1608223434&s=automotive&sr=1-11


Thank you Evan.


----------



## SilentHatch

sacksyboy said:


> Thank you.
> I read somewhere that some 928 Hondas stators only put out 15W - I hope mine is not. I went ahead and ordered 18W pair of flood lights and I am hoping the additional 3W will not cause issues if I have the 15W stator. From the math, I should be using a 1.5amp fuse but I assume they don't have those and I should put a 2amp fuse instead?


I didn't have a 2a fuse so I put in a 5a fuse to get it going, I will be going to the store this weekend to get a mix of lower amp fuses and see how the lights hold up.


----------



## tabora

sacksyboy said:


> I read somewhere that some 928 Hondas stators only put out 15W


They can be 15W or 25W or 50W...


SilentHatch said:


> I find it hard to believe that they would have put in a much stronger stator for a 928


An HS928 lighting coil would be 50W maximum, which would be two 25W coils with no charging coil installed.


----------



## sacksyboy

SilentHatch said:


> Greetings,
> 
> I have a Honda HS828 and my stator only puts out 50W - I find it hard to believe that they would have put in a much stronger stator for a 928, but @tabora or @orangputeh would be able to provide better information.
> 
> You are correct in that you are likely asking too much from your system on a 72W light bar... Are you trying to reenact the sun?
> 
> I have two 18W flood LEDs with side spill and I get flashed by cars driving by when in my own driveway.. they are off Amazon and I think I paid $34 shipped for them.
> 
> The reason I have two 18W lights is so that if I wanted to add small hand warmers, I could do that without overloading my system, though I would likely run with only one light on.
> 
> I have one light on the front left of auger housing and the other on right hand side by impeller chute up/down lever.
> 
> You should likely be fine if you swap out the 72 for 2 18s or similar.
> 
> In case it matters, my LEDs are 4" wide, 2 rows of 3 LEDs.


I called Honda USA and by providing my serial number they were able to confirm my stator puts out 50W. I went ahead and bought a pair of 18W floods. If they don't light up like Christmas, at least I know I have room to add more.


----------



## dmccoole

With the temps in the single digits this weekend, I decided to take on adding two 18W LED Lights to my Ariens. And just in time for tomorrow's nor'easter expecting to dump 12-18" here in S NH. This was my first time soldering so I had a bunch of retries. And some redos after forgetting to put on the heat shrink first! So I don't overload the stator, I ended up adding a switch for each LED so I could turn on one LED while having the hand warmers on. Or two LEDs on with the hand warmers off. Each LED is attached with waterproof plugs in case I need to swap one out. I also added a plug to the halogen light in case I ever want to switch back. I added a project box containing the rectifier and the capacitors to keep them dry with lots of hot glue to keep things in place.

Thank you to all that have offered advice! I read them all and some several times!


----------



## vinmassaro

Anyone do this on a Troy Bilt Storm 2410? I've got a 2011 model and I don't see a stator wire near the electric start. Thanks!


----------



## SilentHatch

dmccoole said:


> With the temps in the single digits this weekend, I decided to take on adding two 18W LED Lights to my Ariens. And just in time for tomorrow's nor'easter expecting to dump 12-18" here in S NH. This was my first time soldering so I had a bunch of retries. And some redos after forgetting to put on the heat shrink first! So I don't overload the stator, I ended up adding a switch for each LED so I could turn on one LED while having the hand warmers on. Or two LEDs on with the hand warmers off. Each LED is attached with waterproof plugs in case I need to swap one out. I also added a plug to the halogen light in case I ever want to switch back. I added a project box containing the rectifier and the capacitors to keep them dry with lots of hot glue to keep things in place.
> 
> Thank you to all that have offered advice! I read them all and some several times!



Those are the exact style lights I used to have; great work!
Thanks for posting the picture we all care about, the lights outside at night hahaha ⛄


----------



## SilentHatch

vinmassaro said:


> Anyone do this on a Troy Bilt Storm 2410? I've got a 2011 model and I don't see a stator wire near the electric start. Thanks!


Got your model number and serial number?
I'm sure others can help do some research for a wiring plan.

Does your blower currently have a light?

Any pics you have or could take of the snowblower could help as well.


----------



## vinmassaro

SilentHatch said:


> Got your model number and serial number?
> I'm sure others can help do some research for a wiring plan.
> 
> Does your blower currently have a light?
> 
> Any pics you have or could take of the snowblower could help as well.


Sure, the model is 31AS62N2711 and the serial number is 1J181B30110.


----------



## SilentHatch

SilentHatch said:


> Got your model number and serial number?
> I'm sure others can help do some research for a wiring plan.
> 
> Does your blower currently have a light?
> 
> Any pics you have or could take of the snowblower could help as well.





vinmassaro said:


> Sure, the model is 31AS62N2711 and the serial number is 1J181B30110.


Check out this thread from 2014, I think you might be in luck @vinmassaro

Troy Bilt 2410 - Lighting Question

The link for stator is not working in that thread anymore, so I googled a little bit more, and found these two websites that carry the stator for about $50.

951-10719 STATOR-SNOW | Tool Parts Direct

MTD Genuine Part 951-10719 STATOR-SNOW - SLE Equipment


Found some diagrams here:
Troy Bilt 31AS62N2711 Storm 2410 (2015) Parts Diagrams


----------



## vinmassaro

Thanks for this info! I had seen that thread and it sounds like the 2011 model dropped the stator. How would I add this to my machine?



SilentHatch said:


> Check out this thread from 2014, I think you might be in luck @vinmassaro
> 
> Troy Bilt 2410 - Lighting Question
> 
> The link for stator is not working in that thread anymore, so I googled a little bit more, and found these two websites that carry the stator for about $50.
> 
> 951-10719 STATOR-SNOW | Tool Parts Direct
> 
> MTD Genuine Part 951-10719 STATOR-SNOW - SLE Equipment
> 
> 
> Found some diagrams here:
> Troy Bilt 31AS62N2711 Storm 2410 (2015) Parts Diagrams


----------



## SilentHatch

vinmassaro said:


> Thanks for this info! I had seen that thread and it sounds like the 2011 model dropped the stator. How would I add this to my machine?


Gotcha, I don't know for sure, but maybe these videos will help?
It looks like you'll need the stator and a stator flywheel so you have magnets that would generate the charge.
I found your current Flywheel Part# 951-12416.

To go out on a limb, I don't know if anything is compatible but it seems like if you were able to find a flywheel and stator from a 2008/2009 model before they stopped producing it, and it were compatible with your engine, you might be able to swap it out. But that's not an easy question to answer, maybe post up about your specific questions on the Troy-Bilt part of the forum so you can get folks trying to help you there? They may be more knowledgeable than I am, for sure.







repair clinic





donyboy73


----------



## vinmassaro

Thanks again. Looking at parts for the 2008 or 2009 models, the flywheel and stator would cost about $150 so I think I'm going to give two of these shot. Magnetic and rechargable so I can charge them up in the house before going out:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3WLVKJ





SilentHatch said:


> Gotcha, I don't know for sure, but maybe these videos will help?


----------



## Jjshires10

Got my snowblower set up finally with a bridge rectifier and I am getting about 24 v DC and still about 1 v AC. I tried out the light last night in the storm and worked great for the 30 minutes or so of work. Went out this morning to clean up from the plow and light worked for about 5 minutes and went out. I still have 24 v DC going to the light, but the light won't turn on. When I connect the light to 12v car battery it turns on. Then I reconnect it to the snowblower it works for 5 to 10 minutes and goes out again. I am just not sure what I could do to fix this. I have never had any flickering on the light and my snowblower doesn't have an idle so its full all the time. The only thing I don't have in my set up is a capacitor, but I assumed I didn't need one since my power is always constant at 24 v and I had not flickering. I run from the machine to the rectifier to a switch then to the light. There is a fuse between the machine and the rectifier as well. Any ideas are welcome.

Below is the light I used.
light


----------



## orangputeh

sacksyboy said:


> Thank you.
> I read somewhere that some 928 Hondas stators only put out 15W - I hope mine is not. I went ahead and ordered 18W pair of flood lights and I am hoping the additional 3W will not cause issues if I have the 15W stator. From the math, I should be using a 1.5amp fuse but I assume they don't have those and I should put a 2amp fuse instead?


i have used Par36 LED lamps that are 9 watt and AC/DC and they work fine without mods.


----------



## Hugo Jass

Jjshires10 said:


> Got my snowblower set up finally with a bridge rectifier and I am getting about 24 v DC and still about 1 v AC. I tried out the light last night in the storm and worked great for the 30 minutes or so of work. Went out this morning to clean up from the plow and light worked for about 5 minutes and went out. I still have 24 v DC going to the light, but the light won't turn on. When I connect the light to 12v car battery it turns on. Then I reconnect it to the snowblower it works for 5 to 10 minutes and goes out again. I am just not sure what I could do to fix this. I have never had any flickering on the light and my snowblower doesn't have an idle so its full all the time. The only thing I don't have in my set up is a capacitor, but I assumed I didn't need one since my power is always constant at 24 v and I had not flickering. I run from the machine to the rectifier to a switch then to the light. There is a fuse between the machine and the rectifier as well. Any ideas are welcome.
> 
> Below is the light I used.
> light



Do you know if the wattage your machine puts out is equal to or exceeds the wattage of the light?


----------



## vinmassaro

Just wanted to follow up to say I got this light in the mail yesterday and it is awesome, really bright! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3WLVKJ

Charges up by USB-A or micro-USB and the magnets on the bottom stick right to the bucket. I can take it in the house to charge easily before a storm so it is ready to go. A great alternative for anyone who does not have a stator wire.


----------



## Jjshires10

Hugo Jass said:


> Do you know if the wattage your machine puts out is equal to or exceeds the wattage of the light?


I am not sure, but was looking st my rectifier and its putting out 24 volts dc and still has 8 volts ac. Anyone know why that would be?


----------



## Darby

Jjshires10 said:


> I am not sure, but was looking st my rectifier and its putting out 24 volts dc and still has 8 volts ac. Anyone know why that would be?


Ripple ?


----------



## Jjshires10

Darby said:


> Ripple ?


Any idea how to fix it?


----------



## jonnied12

jonnied12 said:


> The wire from the engine (AC circuit, usually the original wire to existing headlight) to one of the AC post on the bridge rectifier.
> A wire from the other AC post on the bridge rectifier to engine ground.
> A wire from DC+ on the bridge rectifier to the positive wire on the light.
> A wire from the DC- on the bridge rectifier to the other wire on the light.
> DO NOT GROUND THE DC SIDE OF THE BRIDGE RECTIFIER.
> Don't forget your capacitor(s) between the bridge rectifier and light.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


Go back and find this post, it includes Scope waveforms with and without capacitors.
It also shows the correct wiring schematic.
Its midway down this page:








Upgrading your snowblower lights to LED lights (Please...


In parallel, but why put 2, just get a 4700ɥf instead...




www.snowblowerforum.com


----------



## Evan

SilentHatch said:


> Welcome!
> 
> What's the alternator on your machine put out for wattage? That's really what's going to drive your power going to the Light Bar(s). Are you adding one or both?


I finished the installation a few weeks ago but I've been waiting for a good storm to give them a try.

Installation went great and all of the components seem to be working as intended. The plastic where I installed the switch was too thick to use the built in retaining clip so I used a little bit of clear silicone to keep it tight in place.


----------



## SilentHatch

Evan said:


> I finished the installation a few weeks ago but I've been waiting for a good storm to give them a try.
> 
> Installation went great and all of the components seem to be working as intended. The plastic where I installed the switch was too thick to use the built in retaining clip so I used a little bit of clear silicone to keep it tight in place.
> 
> View attachment 175623
> View attachment 175624
> View attachment 175625
> View attachment 175626


That looks awesome!!
Well done, and as long as you are happy that is what matters! Do you happen to have a picture of your wiring setup?

Looks like you have enough light with your LEDs to get flashed by a passing car hahaha 

Again, great job and thanks for sharing the pictures!


----------



## Evan

SilentHatch said:


> That looks awesome!!
> Well done, and as long as you are happy that is what matters! Do you happen to have a picture of your wiring setup?
> 
> Looks like you have enough light with your LEDs to get flashed by a passing car hahaha
> 
> Again, great job and thanks for sharing the pictures!


The light isn't quite as bright as it looks in the pictures. I stood in front of it for a few minutes before taking the picture just to make sure that it wasn't too bright.

But if it does come down to it, the on/off switch is lit up and easily accessible on the control panel.

The wiring is very tidy (there's a wiring diagram in my earlier post), all of my connections are soldered, heatshrunk and electric taped to try and keep the water out. I decided the use a marrette/electric tape on the final connection to the existing wire from the stator so that it could be disassembled if necessary. 

The small AC/DC converted is secured to the frame with self-taping screws and I ended up using a zip tie to hold the fuse in place so it did not rattle (middle of photo). 

The small black box (left of photo) is the relay which goes to the lights/light switch, and all the other wiring is hidden in the plastic cowling.

I also made a cover plate for the large hole you can see in plastic cowl near the control panel in my other photos. I had to make the hole big enough to fit the waterproof plug attached to the lights.


----------



## AdamG

First post.... Wow, this is a whole lot of useful information. Thanks! I have some ... questions?

I have a ~2013 Toro PowerMax HD926 OXE (Ser# 313xxxxxxx), which came with a light kit which consists of the stator 121-0362, a wiring harness 120-3062, a mounting bracket and bulb reflector, and a halogen bulb type 899 (37.5W).

























My original thought was to get the matching male connector to the female bulb connector (and I found a source), so I could just unplug the existing bulb and plug it into whatever I create, which is nondestructive. However, the Toro wiring harness is reasonably cheap (nearly as expensive as the connectors I'd need to buy), so I was thinking I'd just either hack up the existing harness or replace it and hang on to it in case I need to un-do.

Am now thinking it'd maybe be easiest to get a premade wiring harness (or similar to that link) which uses a switch, a relay, a couple of fuses, and more wire length than I need. I'd need to add a 12V AC-DC converter, something like this 3A one (that's been posted about here before), or this 5A one which is IP67 rated, and wire the output of the AC-DC converter to the harness...










Questions:

The stator has four wound posts (see the pic at the link above), but I can't find any information on how much output it has (but it's clearly at least 37.5W). Does anyone know what the output of this stator is? Alternately, can someone tell me (precisely!) how to measure with a Fluke 79 Series II? Can I just go inline between the stator and the bulb?
Edit: The same stator part number is used on a 928 OHXE, so I suspect the output is more like 60W, but don't know. Help?
Does anyone know the part number of the white locking connectors (the output of the stator)?
I think it ends up being cheaper to buy the harness, even if I don't really need the relay. Thoughts?
Anything else I should know?
Am I an idiot? (I'm not an EE, though I wish I knew more about EE)
Thanks!!!


----------



## GoBlowSnow

Deleted. Disregard.


----------



## penna stogey

Awesome write-up


----------



## Ray67

I purchased the rectifier,capacitors and aux beam lights. Could u please post or send me the complete
Wirering diagram including toggle switch, would greatly appreciate it my email is [email protected]


----------



## Ray67

Sorry it's [email protected]


----------



## Dusty

Ok, so I have a 3/5 amp AC/DC alternator. It puts out 3 amps DC. Its not in use for anything. I am installing a 18 watt auxbeam LED to my machine. I can hook directly into that 3 amps DC without a rectifier ot capacitors no issue correct?


----------



## RIT333

With DC, you need to make sure that you get polarity correct. If the bulb doesn't work, you probably have the polarity reversed.


----------



## Dusty

It worked, shes all hooked up. If you have a DC alternator and its not in use, you can hook right in. Mine supposedly puts out 36 watts at 3 amps, not sure if thats correct, or who did the math, but my light is 18 watts, so I had plenty of room to spare and I still have 5 amps AC at my disposal.


----------



## Sam Am I

...


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## Yanmar Ronin

Looks good Sam, and welcome to SBF.


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## tabora

@Sam Am I, I totally approve!!!


----------



## Sam Am I

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Looks good Sam, and welcome to SBF.


 Thanks and Thanks, glad to be here


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## Sam Am I

tabora said:


> @Sam Am I, I totally approve!!!
> View attachment 181959


NICE setup as well tabora!!! Pardon my lack of knowledge on Honda's, but Is this a stock setup? If not, sure looks it!! Very clean install........


----------



## tabora

Sam Am I said:


> but Is this a stock setup?


No, those are Husqvarna drift cutters and a 32" LED light bar kind of like yours... And now it also has a Gripo auger housing extension...


----------



## Sam Am I

tabora said:


> No, those are Husqvarna drift cutters and a 32" LED light bar kind of like yours... And now it also has a Gripo auger housing extension...
> 
> View attachment 181971


Ahhhh, very clean, impressive, looks to me like those manu's should be taking notes and consulting your engineering........


----------



## KJSeller

Hi guys. I'm a bit stumped. Added led. Iight to my Toro repowered with a Tecumseh 10.5 HP motor. The light works. I ordered a a switch from amazon Canada rated for 12v/20amp and the switch doesn't turn off the light.
With my volt meter I see the output off the bridge rectifier is over 30v DC. Is that why the light switch doesn't work?

I've attached some pics of the setup.

Here is the link to the switch I'm using.

Twidec/3Pcs Rocker Toggle Switch 12V 20A Heavy Duty Racing Car Automative Auto SPST ON/OFF Toggle Switch White LED Illuminated 3Pin ASW-07DW https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07VLG5LRX/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_2TCB8C2RB4A7ZGNK3BPZ


----------



## tabora

KJSeller said:


> the switch doesn't turn off the light.


Are you sure you have it wired as shown in the diagram? With illuminated switches it's easy to do it incorrectly. If you're seeing DC voltage that high, you may also need a regulator in the circuit.


----------



## KJSeller

Yeah on the line from the negative side of the the DC output after the capacitors for the black wire (negative) I have the wire spliced with a marrette for now and then a runs to both the negative side of the light (black) and to the ground of the switch. Red side (positive is going Into the Switch) and load is on the load side. 

I need to check the amazon reviews one of the switches I was looking at mentioned the wiring was actually backwards!


----------



## KJSeller

Just went and switched wires and no difference.


----------



## KJSeller

KJSeller said:


> Just went and switched wires and no difference.


Ordered an AC 120v/50 amp toggle switch on amazon and all is well now. I just need to tidy up the wiring this weekend.


----------



## Sam Am I

*Chute Light!*, just because...............


----------



## Andymann

I have a Ariens Professional Hydro 36 EFI. Has factory hand warmers and I am looking to upgrade the lighting. The stock bulb is sucky. I have (2) 48 watt LEDs left over from another project which are able to run between 10-30 volts. Can I run these? Are they too large? If I can run these how? 🤷🏼‍♂️


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Welcome to SBF, glad to have you here.

96 watts... are you planning to light up the next county? Overkill imo... I can see just fine with 18 LED watts.


----------



## Andymann

Others have big light bars 🤷🏼‍♂️


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Andymann said:


> Others have big light bars 🤷🏼‍♂️


Yes... I suppose they do. 😎


----------



## groomerz

Nice light

You have 3 watts left to use

How bout a cell phone mount with charger? 

I don’t think anyone has done that yey


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tabora

groomerz said:


> How bout a cell phone mount with charger?


But my cell phone warp charger requires 6A @ 5V = 30W...


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

tabora said:


> But my cell phone warp charger requires 6A @ 5V = 30W...


...add a solar panel...? 😁

Andymann... yes we're giving you just a bit of a good-natured hard time... 'tis the Season to be jolly. 😎

I suggest doing some testing... haul the lights and a battery out in the dark and see if you really need both lights.


----------



## Andymann

Ok will do!


----------



## Andymann

Yeah I can get away with running 1


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Andymann said:


> Yeah I can get away with running 1


There ya go.


----------



## Andymann

I know I need a bridge rectifier and a in line fuse and maybe more. Just don't know the sizes I need to run. 🤷🏼‍♂️ TIA


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Andymann said:


> I know I need a bridge rectifier and a in line fuse and maybe more. Just don't know the sizes I need to run. 🤷🏼‍♂️ TIA


Have a read through this thread... most eventualities are pretty well covered.


----------



## crazzywolfie

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Have a read through this thread... most eventualities are pretty well covered.


1 of these days someone almost needs to just make 1 really good post that cover most if not all the important info and then sticky it. i know i really wouldn't be reading through nearly 1500 post to possibly find a answer. feels like it would be easier to create new post than do that.


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

crazzywolfie said:


> 1 of these days someone almost needs to just make 1 really good post that cover most if not all the important info and then sticky it...


The problem with that is that LED tech has been rapidly evolving, and so has lots of the associated peripherals and available accessories.

You're welcome to try, but it's still shooting at a moving target... imo. I think we'd end up with another thread very similar to this one.

I dunno... ?

[Edit: You did give me an idea, which was to add a note to the first post in this thread reflecting the above. Thanks. Y.R.]


----------



## Sam Am I

Andymann said:


> I know I need a bridge rectifier and a in line fuse and maybe more. Just don't know the sizes I need to run. 🤷🏼‍♂️ TIA


Well, "maybe more".........

As Yanmar just mentioned, these designs now are becoming a bit more difficult these days to make generic/simple(one size fits all) with so many new products (blowers and LED's) now on the market. Agreed that our once simple need/want more light light additions have become much more LED and machine specific with only fewer flavors of commonalities, the electrical engineering design standpoints and such.

That said, I think my recent add-on's relate well here with probably only 11K ways to get there...LOL, but this is my take on your Pro EFI machine using a similar LED and the way I've designed and currently run several, including my new EFI.

So, your Pro's EFI and it's stator config and trying not bring down the server with TMI..............

As mentioned, I've just completed a similar EFI setup (I run two additional LED, 55W and 20W) with a 60W alt and my take for you after looking at the Arien's doc's on your machine, yours appears to also have a 60W alt output, BUT yours has a shared AC feed to your........

1) ECU/"ECM"(not switched)

2) Headlight(not switched)

3) Heated grips(switched)

Mine uses AC like yours does for the headlights and ECU, HOWEVER mine additionally rectifies the AC to DC(unfiltered) with a external bridge for the heated grips and the chute/deflector motors.

At any rate...........

You'd like to add/run a 48W LED spot light (spec'd @ 10-30V), but also I assume(like mine), you still want heated grips, motors(mine), original lighting to *all function properly*..........

Your(our) biggest challenge adding ANY additional loads and keeping our above listed stuff running, esp our EFI machines is that we DO NOT want to take the stator's required AC voltage magnitude down with loads so much that the ECU's AC voltage level drops out and......

a) The ECU doesn't function/can't run the blower's pump, injector, sensors, etc, etc properly.

*b) It can't charge the NiMh battery at a reasonable RPM.

We can assume based on Ariens design/battery and voltage used, it's probably and safely said that the stator AC's voltage should not dip below the battery's voltage(1.2V*6 series NiMh cells), so no less then 5.1VAC(7.2VDC) AND add at least 0.35VAC(0.5VDC) for the ECU's charge regulator circuitry's overhead for battery charging. (5.1VAC + 0.35VAC) * 1.414 ~= 7.7VDC.

[VAC{rms} * 1.414 = VAC{peak} = Vp, Vp ~ = VDC using full wave rectifier and adequate filtering]

So, rule of thumb, no less then 5.1VAC to keep the ECU alive and not risk running down/off the battery alone, BUT safest yet no less then approx. 5.5VAC for charging the battery too!!(this includes the overhead of the circuit internal to the ECU).

First order of business, get rid of that Halogen if you haven't already, go to an *LED*, this will help save some of that power that you can use setting up your LED spot light.

Your LED (48W) beings that it's rated to run "10-30 volts" implies (to me) it contains a " LED Driver IC/Chipset" internal to the unit........This is a good thing, they're easier to design with and is like both my LED's on my EFI . This type is probably more reflective of most nowadays LED's out there with internal drivers/chipsets that can work ALSO directly powered with AC. See my* chute light*, it is hooked directly to the AC output of my stator, no rectifier or cap needed, BUT my chute LED is only 1.5A or 20W @ 12V.

Moving on.....

I THINK if you hook your LED (48W) up directly to your AC, it should function like my chute LED, BUT it probably will take your stator's voltage too low (esp if with heated grips turned on AND running ECU/engine stuff). Recall our limit is 60W at more or less full RPM/speed and your LED as it is, will w/o a limit in place, use/suck 48W given 12V (when and if it sees 12V at high'ish RPM's). See above rules of thumb.

If this is the case, as is my light bar (55W) on front of my EFI, you have to "limit the current" to the LED as a "work around" and force it to always run no higher than at or near it's lower voltage/power limit spec.

To do this, I use a rectifier diode (*bridge type*, at the least a min of 10A forward current, 100V reverse will do) tapped directally off the stator's AC output, then a filter cap(22,000uf 25VDC) on the DC side of that rectifier and then a "*buck converter*", then the LED spot light............ Adjust the buck converter such that you only ALLOW it so much current (2, 3A for example) at a decent idle in so much as to not take away/reduce too much from your overall needed voltage. See above rules of thumb.

When you limit current and the LED is still lit up nicely(guessing some 70/80%), it turns out the LED will be running at or near their lower spec's voltage limit (10-30V) of 10V, this is where they can run at this lower current (2, 3A for example) and still produce decent light.

When setting up the buck converter, you'll use it in "*constant current mode*". To do this, temporally hook its input up to a 12V battery, turn both the current and voltage pots down all the way, then turn the current pot back up a turn or two, now with NO LOAD, adjust the voltage pot up until you see the output voltage turn on to about 11'ish volts, now turn the current pot back down maybe one turn.

Next, remove test battery setup and insert/mount the buck converter into the blower's setup you have now (output of the cap), hook up the LED to the converters output and fire up the blower. With it idling a good idle (say 1500 RPM's) and the LED, heated grips and the original light(*replacement LED*) ALL switched to on, turn up the current pot while measuring/watching the blowers AC voltage.

Without the LED quite on yet, you will be measuring the AC voltage (somewhere around 15V for example guessing) and as you turn up the current on the buck convertor, the LED will come/pop on and the AC voltage will begin to drop. Now you "chase the dragon", up the current enough to run the LED well, BUT not so much you take the AC at the given RPM too far down. See above rules of thumb.

This will be your/the worst case lower limit set point where everything will juuuuust work ducky, i.e., giving all items the required power they needed to work at this low of RPM AND not letting the light bar take too much and still give off light. At any high RPM or grips off, etc, it is all free lunch...........

My hopes are this all makes sense, it's really not the complicated, just some dirty details to pay attension to that can't be overlooked if you want the design to be robust and work properly without falling in the pool doing it.


*The ECU's PCB contains onboard components that convert(rectify) then condition(filter and regulate) the AC to DC then it's fed back out to charge the NiMh, if the AC supply gets too low, the charging circuit quits due to lack necessary power (I*V) to charge with.


----------



## spacemanspiff

I've got a stator putting out 60W AC on an Ariens Deluxe 28, I'm looking to add two 18w LED pods (36w total). Should I use a bridge rectifier or an AC/DC converter to do the job? I've seen both endorsed here.


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## Sam Am I

Might work with both and not even need a rectifier/regulator, need spec's to know with more certainty, also sounds like you got enough power w 60W and no EFI makes thing even simplier, good start........... Got a part number? and/or a link to the LED's specs?


----------



## spacemanspiff

Sam Am I said:


> Might work with both and not even need a regulator, need spec's to know with more certainty, also sounds like you got enough power w 60W and no EFI makes thing even simplier, good start........... Got a part number? and/or a link to the LED's specs?


Here’s a link to the lights from Amazon:

Auxbeam 4" LED Pods 18W Flood LED Light Bar 1800lm Driving Light Off Road Lights for SUV ATV UTV Trucks Pickup Boat (Pack of 2) Amazon.com


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----------



## Sam Am I

*Operating Voltage: 9-32V *

It appears to have a "LED driver IC" with that wide range of operating voltage and they don't state "DC", just "9-32V"........Hook'um both up in parallel with each other then directly to the AC output of your stator and fire it up, bet they work just dandy by themselves....Add a switch if need be of course.


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## spacemanspiff

Excellent, I’ll give it a try. Thanks for looking into it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sam Am I

spacemanspiff said:


> Excellent, I’ll give it a try. Thanks for looking into it!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sure, np...


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## groomerz

Just ordered these 18watt 
Led lights. I like the slim design 17$ for a pair











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## KJSeller

spacemanspiff said:


> Here’s a link to the lights from Amazon:
> 
> Auxbeam 4" LED Pods 18W Flood LED Light Bar 1800lm Driving Light Off Road Lights for SUV ATV UTV Trucks Pickup Boat (Pack of 2) Amazon.com
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've got the same light on Mine. Just used one for now. It's not bad, only used the blower once so far this winter.


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## groomerz

I used these weather proof plugs to connect lights 
Nice cheap and also fit most auto bulbs that are 2 prong

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08VN6P1VZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sam Am I

groomerz said:


> I used these weather proof plugs to connect lights
> Nice cheap and also fit most auto bulbs that are 2 prong
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08VN6P1VZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes....Like those connectors! GOOD stuff there...If you happen to be in a hurry, ya can find them at *Autozone* as well...


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## Bc3

So after perusing this topic I’ve come to realize that I’m better off just wearing a hi power led headlamp. With 1500 plus posts on this topic I’ve come to realize i don’t want to expend so much effort for something I’m going to use 3 times a season (and probably snap off the lights when i put it back in storage )


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## harry398

i ordered some stuff..but I have been wrestling with the understanding of my outdoor lighting. I know a MR16 led bulb works on 12VAC. produces 520 lumens....6.8 watts.

talking this through with my brother.....and He is going to try this. and it probably will work. https://www.amazon.com/GLW-Waterpro...ts&qid=1641258346&sr=8-5&th=1#customerReviews

can run 2...and its plenty of light. no rectifier...no complications.


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## Sam Am I

Doing a bit of clean-up the other night with much better lighting PLUS the additional Arien's GLE stock lights.......









zdz56v2jb00c43e_1641657428964.mp4







drive.google.com













zdz56v2jb00c43e_1641657403229.mp4







drive.google.com


----------



## Al Cohen

marruda said:


> *LED lights successfully installed on Troy Bilt 5024 Snowblower!*
> 
> I finally got it working! I ditched the harness and red wire coming off the stator that is supposed to be DC and instead went with the yellow AC wire and a bridge rectifier that everyone else on this forum appears to have used.
> 
> My final parts list was:
> 
> (1) 5 amp inline fuse - 16 gauge
> (1) full wave bridge rectifier
> (2) 2200 uF 50 V capacitors
> (1) SPST toggle switch
> (2) 18W Cree LED lights
> 16 gauge primary wire (red and black)
> Electrical connectors and heat shrink tubing
> 
> Below is my final wiring diagram I followed. I might add another fuse between the bridge rectifier and LED's in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the finished product...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Special thanks to @JerryR and @MnP40C for their help and guidance!
> 
> -Mike


Hi there,
I used the same schematic you posted, but I can't understand what the ground wire going to the - side of the switch is for. I have an arrow pointing to it in the attachment.
Without it, the system works. Although I am getting a great deal of flicker at low idle.

Regards,
Al


----------



## tabora

Al Cohen said:


> I can't understand what the ground wire going to the - side of the switch is for.


Ground path for an illuminated switch LED?


----------



## Al Cohen

tabora said:


> Ground path for an illuminated switch LED?


I don't think that would be needed for an illuminated switch. It's the wire I show with an arrow pointing to it. Otherwise, it's working fine without it. Although I am getting flicker though even with the 2 Caps inline. I'll bet my Stator is just not putting out enough voltage.


----------



## tsbrewers

deleted


----------



## RalphS

I've read all 1500 posts, some great information and helpful members. I saw this on my local FB Marketplace, looks like Craftsman had the housing lightbar idea a long time ago. Not sure of the age of the blower. I would pick it up just for the lightbar and put LEDs in it. They only want $50.


----------



## tsbrewers

might need a tire too.


----------



## Darby

RalphS said:


> I've read all 1500 posts, some great information and helpful members. I saw this on my local FB Marketplace, looks like Craftsman had the housing lightbar idea a long time ago. Not sure of the age of the blower. I would pick it up just for the lightbar and put LEDs in it. They only want $50.
> View attachment 187019


Do it ! Neat machine needs love.


----------



## RalphS

Looking at the pictures in the ad, it looks like it has a second smaller auger at the top of the housing, hence the "Driftbreaker" label. If I didn't already have five snowblowers in my garage, I would probably pick this one up just for the novelty.


----------



## Oscar Anderson

superedge88 said:


> I used a 50 amp 1000 volt bridge rectifier, here is a link to it.
> KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier | Alltronics


The link to the Alltronics website appears to be abandoned at least for that rectifier. However, a Goggle Search found it on Amazon: Amazon.com So, it sounds like a case of buy it, then plug'n'play ? What LED wattage would you recommend.....I'm thinking two lights. Thank you in advance. [Email deleted per forum protocol. Y.R.]


----------



## Yanmar Ronin

Welcome Oscar, glad to have you here at SBF.

Please familiarize yourself with forum SOP, no emails in posts, thanks.


----------



## Jaxon652347

Al Cohen said:


> I don't think that would be needed for an illuminated switch. It's the wire I show with an arrow pointing to it. Otherwise, it's working fine without it. Although I am getting flicker though even with the 2 Caps inline. I'll bet my Stator is just not putting out enough voltage.


Following this diagram, is there a way I could use a On/Off/On Toggle, to use my existing snow blower light, off, or new lights?


----------



## SilentHatch

Jaxon652347 said:


> Following this diagram, is there a way I could use a On/Off/On Toggle, to use my existing snow blower light, off, or new lights?


Sure, depends on how you wire it to the switch and make sure there's a complete circuit


----------



## Jaxon652347

Hi Ya'All,

Would something like this be correct? I went through this forum and combined a few examples into this. I do not have an electrical background and want to make sure I am doing this right before I slice and dice. Is there anything else I should consider?


----------



## Jaxon652347

Hey Ya'll, just wondering if someone has the opportunity to look at the diagram in my last post.


----------



## FarmerBob

Jaxon652347 said:


> Following this diagram, is there a way I could use a On/Off/On Toggle, to use my existing snow blower light, off, or new lights?


This is what I am doing with mine so it would be either old or New. Like toggling your brights using a Latching Push Button; Latching STDP Switch: Push it, New (Green LED lit); Push it again, Old (Green LED Not Lit); Contact Configuration: 1NO–1NC; Protection level: IP65, IK10 . . .







for this . . .







​


----------



## FarmerBob

Jaxon652347 said:


> Hi Ya'All,
> 
> Would something like this be correct? I went through this forum and combined a few examples into this. I do not have an electrical background and want to make sure I am doing this right before I slice and dice. Is there anything else I should consider?


That'd be like what I'm doing. Except it's a STDP, Single Throw, Dual Pole Switch. Either/Or. And am using a sealed voltage converter. 24VAC/60w to 12VDC. Come to find out the light fixture on the Halogen bulb for my regular light has a built-in Bridge Rectifier. 🤞


----------



## robs9

FarmerBob said:


> This is what I am doing with mine so it would be either old or New. Like toggling your brights using a Latching Push Button; Latching STDP Switch: Push it, New (Green LED lit); Push it again, Old (Green LED Not Lit); Contact Configuration: 1NO–1NC; Protection level: IP65, IK10 . . .
> View attachment 199151​
> for this . . .
> View attachment 199152
> ​


I like the look. Where did you get the light and switch?

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


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## pink toe beater

Older snapper Tecumseh, came with Led lights, I think it's cool, previous owner said blower no start, I picked it up cleaned the Carb and started just fine, Strong engine.


----------



## woody367

Hey guy's, I am not about to read through 1500+ post to look for what I think I read on here., Are there led light bars that will work on 12V ac/dc? If so will the work on the blower without adding a bridge rectifier? And if so how do you tell if a light would? Thanks'


----------



## tabora

woody367 said:


> Hey guy's, I am not about to read through 1500+ post to look for what I think I read on here., Are there led light bars that will work on 12V ac/dc? If so will the work on the blower without adding a bridge rectifier? And if so how do you tell if a light would? Thanks'


The Search Community box at the top of the page with the "In This Thread" option would help you quickly narrow your search without having to read every post...

You want to insure that the lightbar has a built in rectifier (and perhaps a regulator) to accept an input of 10-30V A/C or D/C.


----------



## orangputeh

Probably posted this before but if you have a metal control panel you can use one of these with a magnetic base.
LED with rechargeable battery. About $27 buckeroos from Amazon.

super bright. It also has different brightness levels as well as Red flashing option. Not sure what you would use that for. Maybe to summon emergency help?


----------



## Oneacer

I like the idea of these, as you can use it for so much more, very versatile, and keep it in your vehicle when not in use for emergincies.....

We used similar items at Amtrak.


----------



## Tony-chicago

Easy and convenient. How many lumens? I might buy several.
Also helpful for finding tools and stuff stuck. Hopefully not fing


----------



## WVguy

I haven't read every post in this thread so apologies if this link has been posted before. Today I stumbled across this very well done youtube video on installing LED lights on a snowblower that does not have a generator coil on it and uses battery power. Nothing new there.

The twist is that he uses a DeWalt power tool battery with an adapter and step down converter (aka buck converter) to get the DC voltage to 12v. He also provides links to battery adapters for Milwaukee, Makita, and Black & Decker batteries. This way you're using batteries that you already have and keep charged up for other uses and don't have to buy a battery for use only a few times a year.

He also installed little "puddle lights" under the dash to light up where your feet are. Pretty cool, I thought. It's one of the better done "how-to" videos I've ever seen - not a lot of fluff but everything is thoroughly explained.


----------



## Clau

Hello
I'm new to this forum.

I've read quite a bit of this forum and I've decided to add some LED light to the old girl.

My snowblowe is a Canadian Tire Yard Works with a 10.5 hp tecumseh engine.

I'm planning to add two of these lights:

















Using this setup:










Here are some pics of my machine:






























One quick question. Any way to replace that bulp with a LED??
Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.


----------



## Sam Am I

Would you happen to know the wattage of your stator?

I think(perhaps someone else here has the spec) those engines only had like 2 or 3 amps and that's like 20/30'ish watts....Each of those flood LED's are 30 watts for 60'ish watts total. Try it see what it does, worse case they're dim or just won't come on all all. No worries either way, your blower will be fine either way.

That incandescent bulb(21 watts typical) can be replaced typically by something like *THIS**(**11 watts**) *or *THIS**(2.8 watts)*_, _so switching to either will buy you some wattage that can help add to the possible under'age you might have with the two flood LED's.


----------



## Oneacer

I put those exact LUYED ones on my rider .... total transformation, from not seeing to like a car headlight ...


----------



## Clau

Sam Am I said:


> Would you happen to know the wattage of your stator?
> 
> I think(perhaps someone else here has the spec) those engines only had like 2 or 3 amps and that's like 20/30'ish watts....Each of those flood LED's are 30 watts for 60'ish watts total. Try it see what it does, worse case they're dim or just won't come on all all. No worries either way, your blower will be fine either way.
> 
> That incandescent bulb(21 watts typical) can be replaced typically by something like *THIS**(**11 watts**) *or *THIS**(2.8 watts)*_, _so switching to either will buy you some wattage that can help add to the possible above under'age.


Thank you for replying! Much appreciated. I'll get a reading this weekend and post it here.

Regarding the light you and Onacer posted, would I need to hook up a recifier and capicitors if I was just changing the bulb??


----------



## Sam Am I

Clau said:


> Regarding the light you and Onacer posted, would I need to hook up a recifier and capicitors if I was just changing the bulb??


Good catch...

*✔【Attention】This bulb support used range is DC9-30v, in some special models can not be used:used in some alternating current motorcycle,connect car electric machinery or some truck(High starting voltage height DC38V). *

They do claim "chip set", but mixed with "DC9-30V range" which, to me say's it'll also work on AC, but I'm not so good at Chinese re-interpreted to English re: the motorcycle app in the above statement, so I just put my spare *2.8 Watt model* on a AC 60Hz power supply @ around 15VAC.......









You should be good with pure AC, yes. That stator may already have a rectifier built in, some do, some don't, won't matter looks like. I run this same bulb on my TB and I *believe*(not firm on documentation source) that headlight circuit is also pure AC.
















If you need the *11 Watt model* tested, let me know, I have those in my Honda for back ups, BUT easily tested as well.


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## Beaker80

WVguy said:


> I haven't read every post in this thread so apologies if this link has been posted before. Today I stumbled across this very well done youtube video on installing LED lights on a snowblower that does not have a generator coil on it and uses battery power. Nothing new there.
> 
> The twist is that he uses a DeWalt power tool battery with an adapter and step down converter (aka buck converter) to get the DC voltage to 12v. He also provides links to battery adapters for Milwaukee, Makita, and Black & Decker batteries. This way you're using batteries that you already have and keep charged up for other uses and don't have to buy a battery for use only a few times a year.
> 
> He also installed little "puddle lights" under the dash to light up where your feet are. Pretty cool, I thought. It's one of the better done "how-to" videos I've ever seen - not a lot of fluff but everything is thoroughly explained.


I'm in the process of doing this but without a voltage reducer as the lights I have are cube lights rated for 9 - 30VDC. I have bench tested them and they work. I was going to go with a single 6 LED flood/spot light but I also had the cubes and they are 1500lm vs 1260lm for the other light. The wiring harness is long enough so the lights will bolt to the 2 existing holes in the top outermost corners of the chute. I will need to extend the harness up to the control panel where the battery will be located with it's integral on/off switch and fuse holder. I'm not going with the puddle lights but could if the need arises.


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## Beaker80

Project is done but maybe not finished. I think I'll be able to count snow flakes with these. I can always disconnect one if it's too bright.


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## FarmerBob

robs9 said:


> I like the look. Where did you get the light and switch?
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


Sorry for the delay in responding. We were in store for our first snow and all the "Transplants" ("tourists") just go insane. So us locals go to the tropics until they kill each other off or calm down. I decided to stay for at least a couple more snows.

The Switch. I'll have to go back and grab the URL. I don't have it on this machine. In the meantime you can take the picture and run it through Google Image Search and find the one the is DPST Dual Pole, Single Throw with high IP weather protection.

So . . . 🎄


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## robs9

FarmerBob said:


> Sorry for the delay in responding. We were in store for our first snow and all the "Transplants" ("tourists") just go insane. So us locals go to the tropics until they kill each other off or calm down. I decided to stay for at least a couple more snows.
> 
> The Switch. I'll have to go back and grab the URL. I don't have it on this machine. In the meantime you can take the picture and run it through Google Image Search and find the one the is DPST Dual Pole, Single Throw with high IP weather protection.
> 
> So . . .


Thanks for the reply. Am I wrong is that a power tool battery?

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


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## Beaker80

robs9 said:


> Thanks for the reply. Am I wrong is that a power tool battery?
> 
> Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


Mine is set up to use Dewalt batteries.


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## FarmerBob

Since my search for the right parts and after seeing the power tool battery adapters, I have seen a ton of them on the net for every brand and offbrand of battery. That will be my back up plan.

Need to get my light bar finally set up. We're getting more snow than we have in a while and I'll be needing it at night. If things stop falling off of it.


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