# Painting question



## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

I know it has probably been asked before but what is the best way to remove or seal rust before I paint my snow blower?


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

If it's not rusted too badly, you can scrape, and wire brush the rust off, and spray rust reformer on the rust, then coat with a good [Rustolium] paint in the closest matching color.
It all depends how big of a job you decide to do, touch up, or a major restoration.
Sid


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If it's just surface rust you can brush or sand it down and if you get to clean metal then a good "etching primer" and something like Rustolium or even an "Engine" paint.

Are you redoing the Snapper and do you want to match the red ??
It always help if you tell us what it is you are working on.
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I've been told Chevy orange works well for Ariens but I haven't tried it yet.
Will soon though.
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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

Chevy orange,and Areans in my opinion are one and the same.
Sid


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

Sorry about the lack of details in the first post. Yes I'm planning on painting my snapper. I would like to try and match the red as close as possible. The reason I asked the question is I don't want to do all this work and find the rust coming back up and ruining the new paint. Thank you for all the information so far.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Cut and paste from another forum: I discovered that Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Cherry Red spray paint ($4 at WalMart) is a dead-on perfect match for Snapper red.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Cut and paste from another forum: I discovered that Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Cherry Red spray paint ($4 at WalMart) is a dead-on perfect match for Snapper red.


 Even with all the work and primer the spray can paint WILL FAIL. there is no hardner in it. and it will not stand up to the elements.


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## Fred9 (Dec 21, 2013)

Powershift93,

Thanks for the comment but what paint should be used?


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

If I had to chose between matching the color and the paints quality I would defiantly go for the better quality. That being said I looked for and found what looks to be a good paint. I don't know how close International Red is to the original red but that's fine with me.
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/exterior-paint-stain/farm-equipment-paint/rust-oleum-reg-specialty-international-red-farm-equipment-paint-1-qt/p-1444453046676-c-8009.htm?tid=295127441158264017


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Fred9 said:


> Powershift93,
> 
> Thanks for the comment but what paint should be used?


 I use por-15 hardnose paint. WWW.POR-15.COM it is spendy but worth it.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The color chart in my previous post is Por-15

Here is a video:

Eastwood Company: Search Results for por 15Â*invideo

One company that sells it. http://search.eastwood.com/ppc/por+...eAwQwCqjNLfv443Ra0k7-CQhwBSxeMTrCpCJzbZXw_wcB

I guess the question I should have asked is are you just doing a touch up where you'd want to match as best you can or are you painting the whole auger housing or machine and do you have access to a compressor and HVLP spray gun. Some people want to go with a great paint you need to mix and others don't want to mess with anything more than a spray can.


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

I plan on painting the whole auger housing. Also I do have access to a compressor and HVLP spray gun.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Snapper 524 said:


> I plan on painting the whole auger housing. Also I do have access to a compressor and HVLP spray gun.


then you can use ppg, Sherwin-Williams or spies hecker paint they can tint it any color u want.


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

One last question. There is quiet a lot of rust in some hard to reach areas of the auger housing. Should I try to use some type of rust remover or should I just sand as best as possible and apply primer?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If you are doing a real top notch restoration I'd say take it in and sandblast it. If you're just trying to make it look good for a few more years use anything you can to get in there and knock down the rust before you treat it. 

I've tried rust removers, naval jelly and I would not use it again. Didn't really do much and was messy.


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

I'm going to use
http://www.menards.com/main/paint/cleaners-thinners-removers/paint-stain-removers/water-based/metal-rescue-trade-rust-remover-bath/p-1706058-c-8160.htm
as a rust remover although it is a bath I think it will work. Thanks again for all the help.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Let us know how the "Metal Rescue" works for you. Maybe some before and after photos if you get a chance.

I've been toying with electrolysis. Started with a bath of it last fall but had to dump it as my garage is unheated and didn't want to mess with it inside. I didn't have very good results but I think I was using too low a current. Using different resistors to limit it. I'm going to give it another try now that it's warming up again and I'm out in the garage.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I am in the midst of using the electrolysis process, to get my impeller free from the output shaft. 

I decided to use a section of an old political sign frame, the ones that have trash bag like signs have a wire frame. The great thing, if you wait for the right time of year, they will deliver them to you, for free!

And I am using a five gallon bucket.


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Let us know how the "Metal Rescue" works for you.


Can do.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Just FYI. I discovered awhile back there is a lot of discussion about this stuff at the neighboring mytractorforums. All the restorations and such that happen with tractors. It's where I learned about adding a little enamel hardener to quart sized rustoleum. It worked well for me.

example
Amazon.com: Valspar 4625 Enamel Hardener - 8 oz.: Automotive


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Not to thread jack anymore than I already have, but I have successfully separated the impeller and auger input half shaft. 

I have tried heat and PB, to the point that I actually blued the shaft. But with just 7 hours with this method, and significantly less trauma to the parts, they are apart. I am currently soaking the rest of the input shaft and will soak the impeller tomorrow. After that, the augers. 

Frankly, I am pleasantly surprised how well this works, and will certainly consider it in the future. Especially for those tube-on-shaft corrosion issues. 

Albeit, the 5 gallon bucket will not work for all applications, this time it did.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Snapper 524 said:


> Sorry about the lack of details in the first post. Yes I'm planning on painting my snapper. I would like to try and match the red as close as possible. The reason I asked the question is I don't want to do all this work and find the rust coming back up and ruining the new paint. Thank you for all the information so far.


Get an angle grinder and a medium grit flap wheel for sanding. With a 10,000 rpm angle grinder and a flap wheel disk you can grind all the rust off of the snow blower in a matter of an hour or so. Plus the medium leaves a fairly smooth finish. I use automotive rustoleum sandable primer and 400 grit and wet sand and reprime a few times then you are ready for the final finish to be applied.


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

GustoGuy said:


> Get an angle grinder and a medium grit flap wheel for sanding.


I have seen this method in a couple videos while searching for the best way to paint my blower. I'm definitely considering this.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

Snapper 524 said:


> I know it has probably been asked before but what is the best way to remove or seal rust before I paint my snow blower?


 
the absolute "best" is to grit blast or sandblast it to bare metal, then etch prime, epoxy prime, and urethane topcoat in that order. the resulting paint job can sit outside for 5 years and you won't see a speck of rust. it will outlive you. both the epoxy and urethane is a 2 part paint that takes a hardener. the etch prime has a weak acid in it that etches into and eats into the bare metal to give the top coast grip. it's a good system. you can also get a more modern system where the etch prime and epoxy is together in one paint, then just top coat. these products are EXPENSIVE but the best

here is an example of the new dustless blasting, amazing isn't it ?


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Also consider:

Abrasive Blast Intro Kit


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

about 20 years ago, I bought a 100 lb. blaster/hopper with small nozzle tip for small parts, bodywork, etc. It works ok but the blast pattern is small, and the progress relatively slow. It runs on shop air and 3/8" hose connections, and similar to that one in link. Later on I bought a used Ingersol Rand 250 cfm that runs on a 6 cyl. gas continental engine, with a rotary compressor. The outlet hose size is 1-1/4". That blasts quite well, with a large pattern that moves fast and covers a lot of area, but is limited by weather and humidity. It requires temperature between 40 and 75 degrees F. and low humidity. If it gets too cold, or too hot/humid, it starts pushing water through and clogs the blaster with mud. The compressed air moisture condenses in the lines and it starts spraying a mist of water.

that's not the worst part though, the worst is having to breathe the dust from dry blasting, and the mess it makes. blasting outside in the summer, you need a mask, shield, long sleeves, you sweat a lot and the sand and dust stick to the operator - very dirty, uncomfortable job. 

this wet blast dustless system gets rid of that aspect. but the entry fee is pretty high, several thousand dollars for the system. one would need a lot of work lined up to justify the expenditure.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

Some years ago I did some large scale sand blasting in the garage for project 55012. I tented but the dust went everywhere and I will be finding the crud for the rest of my life. I now try to confine by blasting to a ducted cabinet or outdoors.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

same here. when I was doing complete car bodies and frames, needed a dedicated outdoor place away from any building paths, and to this day there's sand on the ground there amongst the grass and weeds. the best setup was, blasting at my friend's house on a huge concrete driveway 3 lanes wide and about 150 feet long, angled downhill slightly. it kept the sand away from the garage area, and I was able to sweep up and re-use the sand indefinitely. every day I'd sweep it up with screen it, and put it back in the blaster. days after it was finished, it rained hard a few times and simply washed any residue away down the hill. combined the lines of my 4 HP portable 20 gallon compressor, to the shop 5 HP 50 gallon compressor. Had plenty of air pressure and volume. was able to re-use 400 lbs. of sand repeatedly to do an entire car, and also the back side and jambs of the hood, doors, trunk lid. but it was a lot of sweeping. after getting done and being hot and tired and covered with sand dust, I'd have to then sweep the place up and recover the sand, in the beating sunlight. sandblasting is just a few notches from slave labor but it pays big rewards, when all the rust on the machine peels off to reveal virgin bare metal. the paint jobs come out really good after blast prep.

the ultimate for small or medium sized parts, is an automatic slurry cleaner or shotblast machine, simply put the parts in, clamp them in place, close the door, and push a button. the machine rotates the parts and blasts them with media or shot- when done it shuts off, open the door, the part is stripped clean. it's like a big dishwasher. some use water with media, others use dry shot like bb's.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

I have used POR 15 over the rust on my snow blower 3 yrs ago and it has held up fine.

It is a bit expensive and the directions are particular but I did not have to blast or completely strip the rust. Just remove the loose stuff with a wire wheel ,wash it down dry it and it was ready.
Top coat with a can of rustoleum and it looks find.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

Snapper 524 said:


> I know it has probably been asked before but what is the best way to remove or seal rust before I paint my snow blower?



some other options are acid dip, eats all the rust from all the inner channels, then dip in paint or brush paint, or spray paint

good driveway method is, wire wheel on a grinder. will remove all the heavy scale, but won't get the rust down inside the little pits. you can wire wheel, then acid etch to eat away at the pit rust, then brush paint/spray paint. if you wire wheel, then get a high quality wire cup like a Master Mechanic. you can then use POR15 over it. DON'T get the cheap brush as they shred all the wires in one day, and stick them in your shirt and hands. cheap Chinese made wire wheels are DANGEROUS and you must use eye and hand protection. I got a wire stuck in my thumb deep, and my friend got one wire stuck in his EYE from a hand wire brush, and had to surgically removed. BEWARE. Chinese made abrasives are low quality and will blow up in your face.


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

I have it taken apart and it is ready for sanding then paint.

Before pictures:
DSCF6986 by HDXbus, on Flickr

DSCF6987 by HDXbus, on Flickr

DSCF7003 by HDXbus, on Flickr

DSCF7002 by HDXbus, on Flickr


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

After:

DSCN1855 by 
HDXbus, on Flickr

DSCN1857 by 
HDXbus, on Flickr

DSCN1859 by 
HDXbus, on Flickr

DSCN1858 by 
HDXbus, on Flickr


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## Barooch (Mar 27, 2015)

Great job !


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

Looks great! What paint did you wind up finishing with?


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## Snapper 524 (Dec 10, 2013)

I ended up using Rust-oleum International red farm equipment paint.

http://www.menards.com/main/paint/e...arm-equipment-paint-1-qt/p-1956377-c-8009.htm


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

nice job, looks very nice. I had an old snapper, bought it with a bad engine. Put a harbor freight greyhound on it gave it a paint job and it was a very nice machine. I like the longer skids you put on it. I suspect you will get a lot of years of service out of that machine.


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