# H-60 Tecumseh 110v Starter



## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

I have a starter off an H-50, that will fit my H-60. The box with the toggle switch and the 110v input, is mounted directly on the starter case. 

There is a short in the box itself, where the four SR1869 rectifiers are molded in with epoxy. Would like to replace the box with one just like it, but may not be able to find one.

Will most any of the remote starter switches with the wires running down to the starter, work with my 1971 starter?? 

I don`t want to just try it and end up smoking the starter windings. The starter is a model 32328. It has 4 mounting bolts and a 16 tooth gear.

John


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

The only ones i have seen is just an plug and switch in a box, no rectifiers and its an AC motor. Can you post a picture?


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

kb0nly said:


> The only ones i have seen is just an plug and switch in a box, no rectifiers and its an AC motor. Can you post a picture?


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Here is a pic of the starter. The rectangular hole, next to the grounding prong is where the 2 plug prongs were. I drilled the guts of the box out and that Is when I found the 4 rectifiers.

I am thinking that the starter is DC and the 110v AC is coverted to run it. The moror uses a 2 brush system, if that is any help.

John


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

Ahh ok, yep its one of those. Its a DC motor with rectifiers to run it off AC.

When you said the box i was thinking the typical kind with a switch/plug box on top of the motor shroud, forgot about that style, brain fart on my part! None of the switches off the other starters, newer units, will work on yours as they are AC motors.

You will have to get creative or find a replacement. You might be able to bolt up a complete newer style starter but without comparing them side by side i am not sure. Hopefully someone more experienced with that type can chime in here.


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

kb0nly said:


> Ahh ok, yep its one of those. Its a DC motor with rectifiers to run it off AC.
> 
> When you said the box i was thinking the typical kind with a switch/plug box on top of the motor shroud, forgot about that style, brain fart on my part! None of the switches off the other starters, newer units, will work on yours as they are AC motors.
> 
> You will have to get creative or find a replacement. You might be able to bolt up a complete newer style starter but without comparing them side by side i am not sure. Hopefully someone more experienced with that type can chime in here.


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Thanks for the info. I figured it must be a DC motor. Do you know what the DC voltage is? (110v ?, - 12v ?) . I can get some of the SR1869 rectifiers, or their equals and wire up a new circuit inside the box.

And yes, there are 110v AC starters that are direct replacements for this one, but have the remote starter button. 

I know a local old time mower shop (been there since god was an alter boy), that has a used 110v AC starter with the remote button, that is otherwise identical to mine. It has bad gear teeth. Looks like I could go that route also, but still want to repair the starter I have now. 

I have need for a second starter anyway, for my 1967 Jake Imperial 26. It never had the electric start option on it and I plan to convert it.

John


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Starter*

I have no info on that, but that's the most unusual starter I've ever seen. I've seen 12 v and 110v but nothing like that one.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

I believe its 110v DC to run it, i can't find a spec sheet online for the SR1869's. Are they a diode? I would assume they are using four diodes to form a rectifier to provided rectified DC to run the motor. Unless there is also a voltage regulator in there i doubt its 12v.

You could probably just replace the guts with a good bridge rectifier, something rated for higher amperage then needed but would fit in that box. You could probably fit in a 20-35 amp rectifier.


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

Thanks for that info. I was not able to find much on the SR1869 number either. I am going to Radio Shack, later this week, to see if they can come up with something to replace that number. If I tell them what I need to do, maybe they will have what I need. 

In addition, I am in touch with someone that offered me a starter that is the same as mine, for only the postage. He is in the business, and says the tag on it reads Not Working. I can test the rectifier box on top for DC output. I am guessing it has the same problem. I can repair 2 starters, as easy as one.

On a 3ed note, I have a chance to get another starter that in working and has the same round body as my starter. However, it is 100% AC and has the remote switch, like the newer square starters. The gear teeth are bad, so if I am able to get it at a good price, I will. Going to check it out tomorow.

John
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kb0nly said:


> I believe its 110v DC to run it, i can't find a spec sheet online for the SR1869's. Are they a diode? I would assume they are using four diodes to form a rectifier to provided rectified DC to run the motor. Unless there is also a voltage regulator in there i doubt its 12v.
> 
> You could probably just replace the guts with a good bridge rectifier, something rated for higher amperage then needed but would fit in that box. You could probably fit in a 20-35 amp rectifier.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

I doubt radio shack will be of much help unless you need a cell phone battery... LOL

Seriously though, rat shack just don't carry much for components anymore, and the old time guys are gone forever, the kid behind the counter now won't even know what your talking about.

Any chance you can post a pic of the SR1869? If i saw one, case/component style i could probably give a lot better idea of what it is, what its rated, etc. I tried cross referencing through all my component catalogs and nothing came up, but thats not too much of a surprise if its something that has been out of production for say 20+ years.

If you can get the one with the bad gear and swap the gear with one of the others, that would be a good find! I think it might still be possible to repair these, but will just have to do a bit of testing and experimentation.

I will grab a couple old component cross reference DVD's i have tomorrow and see if i can find anything with that part number, but without seeing what they look like its harder to know i am looking for, a picture is worth a thousand words so to speak.. lol


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

kb0nly said:


> I doubt radio shack will be of much help unless you need a cell phone battery... LOL
> 
> 
> Any chance you can post a pic of the SR1869? If i saw one, case/component style i could probably give a lot better idea of what it is,
> ...


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

Wow, thats a very early example of what we think is a diode in a copper heatsink. I passed the pic around to some of my friends, all electronics nuts like me, and thats the best we can come up with.

The part number doesn't come up in any guides, even checked stuff in archives going back to the 60's, so its very possible it was an undocumented manufacturers part number.


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

kb0nly said:


> Wow, thats a very early example of what we think is a diode in a copper heatsink. I passed the pic around to some of my friends, all electronics nuts like me, and thats the best we can come up with.
> 
> The part number doesn't come up in any guides, even checked stuff in archives going back to the 60's, so its very possible it was an undocumented manufacturers part number.


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I found these on ebay. Do you think they would work for my purpose? 4 of them may well not fit in the switch box on my starter, but I can always make a remote box and run leads to the box on the starter. I am still going to chack with Radio Shack on Thursday. One of the stores here, seems to have workers that know more than just how to push a button.








Diodes 50 Amp 4 pcs. rectifier Charger Solar Golf +compound Button diode replace | eBay

John


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

10× 50A 1000V Metal Case Bridge Rectifier SEP KBPC5010 | eBay

Give this a try... AC from the power cord/switch to the AC terminals and the motor leads to the +/- should be all you need. Fasten it to the side of the box if you can with a small machine screw and nut through the center mounting hole, this adds heatsinking to it.

You should be able to find that style of rectifier at Rat Shack if they have them. Not all stores seem to stock them anymore.


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

I saw those when I was looking on ebay, but being they are not very local to the USA, I wrote them off. I will see if Radio Shack has anything like that.

 John

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kb0nly said:


> 10× 50A 1000V Metal Case Bridge Rectifier SEP KBPC5010 | eBay
> 
> Give this a try... AC from the power cord/switch to the AC terminals and the motor leads to the +/- should be all you need. Fasten it to the side of the box if you can with a small machine screw and nut through the center mounting hole, this adds heatsinking to it.
> 
> You should be able to find that style of rectifier at Rat Shack if they have them. Not all stores seem to stock them anymore.


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