# Alice...Sweet Allis



## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

picking-up this old girl in the morning...for a song k:


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

i remember old Allis.....she was quite the chalmer.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Lucky for you - I can't even carry a tune! :>P


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I couldn't wait until morning... 

Ended-up paying $35.

It's an Allis-Chalmers Tracker 7 (_like raptor0192's_).

1970 Briggs Flatty 170402 (_I assume a 7Hp since it's a Tracker-7_)





The machine has some surface rust...no rot that I can see.




The transmissions on these things are massive! It's literally the size of the transfer case on my silverado.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

It has a 26" pie-hole: 




beefy auger gearcase: 


Even the belt cover is steel:



when buying an old-school briggs, the fuel tanks are always a concern...and this machine is no exception. Not sure if this beyond saving...


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

How can can you not love something that even has a steel gas tank with a steel lid!! AR AR AR AR AR!! (Tool Time man grunt)


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Glad she found a good home for the holidays !!

If you don't want to tumble it in sand and or pebbles and there isn't a hole in it you can always Kreem it. Kreem the inside, paint the outside and it's good as new.

https://www.google.com/#q=kreem+fuel+tank+sealer


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

bad69cat said:


> How can can you not love something that even has a steel gas tank with a steel lid!! AR AR AR AR AR!! (Tool Time man grunt)


AR AR AR is right! I did find 1 piece of plastic...the recoil handle


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Glad she found a good home for the holidays !!
> 
> If you don't want to tumble it in sand and or pebbles and there isn't a hole in it you can always Kreem it. Kreem the inside, paint the outside and it's good as new.
> 
> https://www.google.com/#q=kreem+fuel+tank+sealer


Thanks Frog! I'll leak-test the fuel tank and give this stuff a whirl!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I've been wanting to tear into an old Briggs for a long time...



...and not soon after: 


There was a pile of seed husks in the carb intake...


...which probably explains the burnt seeds on the piston :laugh:


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

So the short list on this thing are: 

 reseat valves & adjust clearance
 clean / rebuild carb
 clean / seal fuel tank with new fuel line/filter
 new head gasket
 tighten-up the recoil

The only thing screwed-up on the tractor itself...is that there are 2 busted bolts that secure the transmission to the chassis. I'm grateful that the tire isn't seized to the shaft...extract those bolts and she'll be good to go.



I'll do a full restore on this thing...eventually.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

This machine was probably made by Simplicity.

Scot


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Home wrecker!.....


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Looks to be in pretty darn good shape. It'll be fun to follow your work on Allis. 

The owner's manual didn't come up on Simplicity's site and nothing on Jack's Small Engine, using 2029956. Might have to call them to find the manuals for that one.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

sscotsman said:


> This machine was probably made by Simplicity.
> 
> Scot


A did a little research yesterday before committing to the purchase.

This machine shows-up under Allis-Chalmers (Tracker), Simplicity (SnowAway) & Homelite (S8).


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

bad69cat said:


> Home wrecker!.....


ha...that guy had plenty of other flywheel shrouds & air intakes for the vermin to find refuge! 

Seller was our kind of guy... A dodge reliant-K was the newest internal combustion engine that I could see on his sprawling property!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Probably the last update on "Big Bird" for awhile...

...I was hoping to get this Sherman-tank blowing by next weekend however the busted bolts that hold the tranny to the chassis will require me to pull & split the transmission in order to extract the broken bolts (red arrows): 


I'm eager to see what horrors lie in the carb bowl however the emulsion-tube isn't going anywhere anytime soon...and on these updraft carbs, you can't split the carb until the tube is unscrewed from the carb body.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Probably the last update on "Big Bird" for awhile...


^^^ ok...I lied :wavetowel2:

screw extractors have been as useless to me as teats on a bull...until now! I worked the emulsion tube out until the last stretch when it bound-up.

^^^ there's a new tube & jets in the rebuild kit already on order.

...and the contents of the float bowl didn't disappoint!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Great deal CC. Here is a link to the engine service manual for that engine. Good luck with the restoration.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Ooofta - I thought the carbs I worked on were gunked up - not even! You got your work cut out on this one.....


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Grunt said:


> Great deal CC. Here is a link to the engine service manual for that engine. Good luck with the restoration.


Thank you Brutha Grunt!!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

bad69cat said:


> Ooofta - I thought the carbs I worked on were gunked up - not even! You got your work cut out on this one.....


I hear ya badcat. Never have I seen anything remotely close to this. 

I don't know if it's corrosion or remnants from MTBE gas....regardless, I don't believe this machine has been fired in a loooong time.

If it's corrosion, I may have to bite the bullet and order a chinese carb :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

2 heat rounds to the Alice's budget.

The 1st, this carb is shot...no surprises there. 


^^ The tip of the ice-pick is where the fuel is drawn into the emulsion tube...packed solid with Alumina... fuggedaboudit!

I scored a used briggs replacement carb for $45...with the seller's guarantee.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

The second is to this fuel tank. The bottom is swiss cheese. 


It's definitely salvageable however the cost of doing so approaches the cost of a brand-spankin' new tank. 

If I were to proceed with salvaging, I'd do the following: 

Remove the varnish with laquer thinner (temporarily plug the holes with bubble gum)
Remove the rust using electrolysis
POR15 degreaser
POR15 Metal Prep
POR15 external patch over the holes after sanding away the paint
POR15 tank sealer

Currently in it for $205. When all is said-and-done, I'll be in this machine about $250-$300. I can live with that. Thanks for stoppin' by!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

classiccat said:


> It has a 26" pie-hole:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is why they make plastic replacement tanks. for that 1. there BROTHER CC.k:k:k:k:k:


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

classiccat said:


> The second is to this fuel tank. The bottom is swiss cheese.
> 
> 
> It's definitely salvageable however the cost of doing so approaches the cost of a brand-spankin' new tank.
> ...


FOR 75 bucks you can get a new plastic tank. and best of all it comes in black only.:yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

This is going to be fun seeing it running again.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> FOR 75 bucks you can get a new plastic tank. and best of all it comes in black only.:yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:


Brutha-PS...the only plastic that will be on this machine...will be on the recoil handle...and now that I think about it, I'm going to swap that out with a fat chunk of old Iron :smiley-whacky017:


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

bwdbrn1 said:


> This is going to be fun seeing it running again.


You and me both bwd! ...then again, I'm in no real hurry; having 2 machines already in operation, I can savor this project.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I got the transmission out of the machine...I bet it alone weighs close to 100#. 





The good news is that I only had the chase the threads on one of the missing bolts...the missing upper bolt will need to be drilled-out / re-tapped. 

I've decided to do it without cracking the transmission; I may get lucky with the left-handed bits where it walks out for me. 

*You guys who love old Iron will appreciate this: * 1971 Popular Mechanics; see Page 16.

The debate at the time was friction wheel versus transmission! :laugh: 

I think this issue is fitting for the SBF archives...at the end, there's an article on how LED's will change the world! :laugh:


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Left-handed bits for the win...again! :eusa_clap:



I'm not going to have to split the transmission after all...at least not to extract broken bolts.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Alice's tractor cleans-up well...few squirts of wd40>>>



transmission re-installed:


...and the mailman brought the "new" carb today...that's more like it! 


^^^Anyone disassembling one of these updraft carbs...cannibalize one of your flathead screwdrivers so that you get as much meat in that emulsion tube as possible...don't even think of trying to screw this out if there is any play...grind the tip down until it's snug-as-a-bug. k:

Thanks for stoppin' by & Happy New Year!!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I think Alice is growing tired of being wrenched-on (and burnt with the torch).

I've moved-on to the auger housing. I started with the usual for the breakdown....remove the impeller pulley: 



...and without any documentation anywhere online with how to disassemble this beast...and crappy parts breakdowns, I was as stuck as the auger rakes were to the shaft(s). 

Until I stumbled onto this image of a simplicity auger gearbox for sale on fleabay (seller wants $115 ) 


then it hit me...that this machine has 3 shafts! 

So if you have one of these machines (or simplicity 2-stage snow-away, or homelite s#), the way you remove the auger/impeller assembly once the impeller pulley is removed: 

 Remove the outer retaining pins (these aren't designed to shear).
 Remove the bolts holding the bearing assembly
 Pull the outer shaft out through the side of the auger housing
 Repeat on the opposite side

Easy-Peasy unless your auger rakes are frozen to the outer shafts.

So I'm trying to leverage the cavity between the 2 shafts. Fill it with MMO, cap the hole & heat-up the cavity.

The heat should make the Marvel Mystery Oil less viscous & expand the auger breaking the rust bond...





^^^ Important to wear eye protection; scalding MMO would probably hurt a bit. 



So far, It looks like I already have seepage on one of the ends after 1 round of heat!





I'll let you know how this goes...and any other suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks for stoppin' by!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Better you than me on that UNDERTAKING there BROTHER CC.k:k:k:k:k:


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## lee h (Jan 18, 2015)

Nice project with some nice techniques on repair.
Very creative.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Quick update on old Alice...

I was able to get one of the auger's freed-up...still working the other side. I've switched from straight-MMO to a 50/50 mixture of ATF/Acetone. Wicked stuff! :smiley-whacky017:

The old briggs is also getting some tough love.


I wasn't getting spark & the ignition looks like it's seen better days...plunger wasn't moving with the crank. I'll be putting in a solid-state ignition anyways.

piston/crank/rod/cam & governor all look excellent...may replace the governor assembly & seals since I have it cracked-open.

There is some ultra-shallow scoring in the cylinder walls...barely feel the worst of them with your finger-nail. There's no ring-ridge & the bottom or top of the ring travel.


The way this is worked over, it looks like it was rebuilt & honed...I believe the only way to get scoring that far down is by pounding-out a dirty piston. 


I'll be checking ring-gap & possibly going to a higher ring size.

Kicking myself for not doing a compression or leakdown test prior to breakdown (_I thought the exhaust valve was stuck open_).


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Anyone disassembling one of these updraft carbs...cannibalize one of your flathead screwdrivers so that you get as much meat in that emulsion tube as possible...don't even think of trying to screw this out if there is any play...grind the tip down until it's snug-as-a-bug. k:


You can also order the proper screwdrivers from Briggs & Stratton, part numbers 19061 and 19062.



classiccat said:


> I wasn't getting spark & the ignition looks like it's seen better days...plunger wasn't moving with the crank. I'll be putting in a solid-state ignition anyways.


The easiest and best way to do this is to use a coil off a late model flathead. Anything from a Briggs & Stratton flathead made after 1981 will work. Early 1982 - 1983? models had a replaceable module you can also buy to convert the old coil if it's good but I prefer to just use the later sealed coils.



classiccat said:


> Quick update on old Alice...
> I'll be checking ring-gap & possibly going to a higher ring size.


Most of the over-sized and chrome rings for the older flatheads are now discontinued.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> You can also order the proper screwdrivers from Briggs & Stratton, part numbers 19061 and 19062.


thanks for the tip! they were a little salty & I wasn't positive that they'd fit perfectly...I was able to tailor that to get a tight fit using a grinder & file. 



94EG8 said:


> The easiest and best way to do this is to use a coil off a late model flathead. Anything from a Briggs & Stratton flathead made after 1981 will work. Early 1982 - 1983? models had a replaceable module you can also buy to convert the old coil if it's good but I prefer to just use the later sealed coils.


I went forward with ordering a brandy new SS ignition/coil (_Briggs & Stratton 398811_). 



94EG8 said:


> Most of the over-sized and chrome rings for the older flatheads are now discontinued.


Fingers crossed that the ring-gap is in-spec! crude bore measurements suggest I'm on the lower side of the spec (_waiting on a new bore gauge set_). My gut is telling me that compression loss will be minimal (_i've seen worse & had great compression / no blow-by_) so if someone replaced these rings before...hopefully they used the right ones :hope:

thanks for the tips/help 94!!! ccasion14:


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

I'm honestly surprised to see those scratches in the bore. Snowblower engines almost never wear out due to never sucking in dirty air. They rarely burn any amount of oil even when old. Tiller engines on the other hand despite normally having very low operating hours on them are usually worn badly and have severe oil consumption issues early on due to operating in extremely dusty condition.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> I'm honestly surprised to see those scratches in the bore. Snowblower engines almost never wear out due to never sucking in dirty air. They rarely burn any amount of oil even when old. Tiller engines on the other hand despite normally having very low operating hours on them are usually worn badly and have severe oil consumption issues early on due to operating in extremely dusty condition.


I hear ya 94...Believe it or not, I'm surprised that it's not worse after what I found.

Earlier in the thread, you can see what was residing in the intake: 


the intake column / shrouding was also lined with rust-scale.

the condition of the piston...there were literally burnt seeds on it :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

That didn't burn much oil though, the top of the piston is actually pretty clean. I wouldn't be all that concerned.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Great work! Just now catching up on it...... I think she's not hurting to bad really


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Yeah guys, so-far-so-good on this old Briggs. Bore is nuts on at the lower limit & compression ring end-gap is 0.014" (_0.012" minimum/ 0.035" reject_). 

I was able to squeeze a little life out of the old breaker-points ignition...the spark was weak & intermittent (tested using a gap tester & with a drill on the crank).

So when the new solid state ignition came in the mail this weekend, i threw the crank back in the block to test it out. 

Man, what a difference...nice, strong pop.


I think I'm running out of excuses for keeping this old gal torn down. :icon_whistling:


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

That starter socket is a cool tool.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

dbert said:


> That starter socket is a cool tool.


thanks dbert! These engines don't use a flywheel nut...rather a starter rewind clutch...I assume it's to prevent injury from kick-back.


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## Hanky (Nov 14, 2014)

classiccat how is sweet Alice coming along ready for the weekend storms or a few weeks away yet.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Hanky said:


> classiccat how is sweet Alice coming along ready for the weekend storms or a few weeks away yet.


Hey Hanky, we're not getting our hopes up here in the NY capital district...looks like the snow-line is just south of us. 

Regardless, Alice's boom-box is completely torn down at the moment. It wouldn't take much to slap her back together for a quick romp in the snow however *I'm not liking how much play I'm seeing in the exhaust valve*.

I'm waiting on a gauge to measure the valve guide...and piece-together the tools required to replace that bushing (_9mm tap, several reamers, bushing driver & I'd likely have to fab the bushing puller_).

It's a good thing that I have a Big Old Toro as back-up


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

classiccat said:


> thanks dbert! These engines don't use a flywheel nut...rather a starter rewind clutch...I assume it's to prevent injury from kick-back.


It's just a different method of starter engagement. They'll still kick back. They'll do some extra things too, like squeal and spit the starter cord out, and fail to engage. The starter clutch is not nearly as good an idea as I once thought it was.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> It's just a different method of starter engagement. They'll still kick back. They'll do some extra things too, like squeal and spit the starter cord out, and fail to engage. The starter clutch is not nearly as good an idea as I once thought it was.


It's funny you mention it because I did watch a few videos over lunch yesterday of them overrunning. Looks/sounds like you need to keep these things clean & well lubricated... shouldn't be too bad on a snowthrower however a tiller is a different story.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Anyone that who's had to free-up a sized auger shaft can appreciate this: 
(still smoking)


I still have to free-up the gearcase side however now I can get to work on that auger housing.


recoil clutch soaking its balls :icon_whistling:


Lastly, here you can see the play that I'm getting in the exhaust valve. Unfortunately the 5/16" valve guide repair kit is NLA. If I can't find a shop to do this at a reasonable price, I'm going to have to get a little creative on this one.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

What is the NLA valve guide repair kit, what was in it ?

Can an automotive shop knurl and ream it for you ??

Heck of a project !!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> What is the NLA valve guide repair kit, what was in it ?
> 
> Can an automotive shop knurl and ream it for you ??
> 
> Heck of a project !!


There's a 9mm tap & puller assembly for removing the old guide.

There's also a ream guide, bushing-drive & a series of reams for the new one.

I can get some of the individual components but can't find the driver & puller.

the puller is basically 2-stage puller-bolt...a small radius that goes into the threaded bushing, then a large stage for pulling.

I'm thinking that a long 9mm bolt (ford exhaust manifold bolt?) will work...if I can't find that, I can always weld a shorter 9mm bolt to the bottom of a 1/2" bolt. 

Then buy the proper reams based on where the valve-stem mics in at.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

*Service tool gave me the green light*

...and this my friends is why we read service manuals



The 19151 gauge tool was in my mailbox today...


...And i couldn't get any of the "flat end of the plug gauge" into the valve guide


They must keep them loose to allow for valve expansion...and a great way to keep from throwing rods.

The breather cavity was pretty clean...a little bit of schmutz right under the spring.

I think we have the green light to slap this old Briggs together and make some noise! :icon_smile_tongue:


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

classiccat said:


> ...and this my friends is why we read service manuals
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*once again there BROTHER CC. MAZEL TOV on that 1.:wavetowel2::wavetowel2:*


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

*Briggs reassembly*

New seals in the old gal


Rings / grooves cleaned-up...before removing from the piston, I mark them to designate position & orientation: 


connected rod...connected: 


a tip for someone tearing into their own boom-box...put the exhaust & intake tappets, valves & springs in separate baggies: 


timing marks on the cam & crank:


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

*Briggs reassembly part2*

New governor...didn't come with the little retaining ring. So hang-on to it from your old governor just in case your kit doesn't come with one:



I like using gorilla snot on my sump gaskets...old trick from wrenching on outboards. mix the crappola out of it in the can, lay it on thick then use a drywall blade to remove the excess: 




Valves lapped & stems ground for the specified lash.

New head-gasket coated with Permatex copper spray...


Head put back on...I normally dress the head but cut the corner this time; was nice & true.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

*Briggs reassembly part3*

I grabbed a stator off of fleabay for 8 bucks. The seller was nice enough to provide the 8/32 bolts. I had the starting & blind taps for creating the threads in the block posts.


...the diode gotz-ta-go!


^^^ we'll be using a bridge rectifier to drive an LED flood later in the project 

snagged an 8hp flywheel from fleabay...for 24 bucks.


buttoned-up...she was putting out 5 VAC when turning it with my drill.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

New SS ignition throws one heck of a spark: 


Carb, new muffler & new fuel tank bolted on: 


compression test isn't the most accurate method of testing cylinder/valve integrity (b/c of compression release) however when it's hitting 90+ with the recoil on a cold engine, I'm feeling pretty good about things


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Today was my crash course in the updraft carb.

With the Briggs mounted on Alice’s chassis, I snaked the 56” long drivebelt through the maze of pulleys… rearranging the tension pulley for better alignment.

I was confident the engine internals were sound…however the Frankenstein carb is somewhat of an unknown for me; a combination of original, rebuild-kit and parts from a used carb from fleabay. 

I added some E0 fuel and the motor popped to life on the 1st pull and off of the choke in only a few seconds. 

It idled well however when I went to higher-speeds, it was running really rich…and when this motor runs rich, it lets you know it; Loud bangs with black plumes shooting from the muffler.

After pulling/disassembling the carb, I compared the emulsion tube with one from the rebuild kit…the jetting was clearly larger; I’m guessing it was intended for an 8hp engine. 

So in went the tube from the kit…after putting the carb back on and once the fuel was supplied, it poured from the carb intake! 

I know the float was seating properly...so it had to be the fact that being overly-cautious when putting in the new emulsion tube. 

I tightened that baby up and the intake was as dry as the Mohave. k:

I kept the heat box off for tuning the carb (_as shown in the video below_)…when I added the heat box back, I had to lean-out the idle jet 3/8th turn to compensate for the warm air.

Smooth runner.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

What kind of engine assembly lube did you use????? what kind of gorilla snot are you referring to.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> What kind of engine assembly lube did you use????? what kind of gorilla snot are you referring to.


That's "Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Assembly Lube". 

Yeah...I should elaborate on gorilla snot..._especially after googling it_ ...it's *not* hair gel. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh

It's gasket sealing compound. I use Evinrude (p/n 508235) & Quicksiliver Perfect Seal (92-34227 ? label long gone) interchangeably; they both look/smell the same...like gorilla snot. :icon-hgtg:

2 tips for this stuff: 1) mix it with a BF-screwdriver; using the lid-brush to stir will not cut the mustard...the sealing compounds settle to the bottom and harden-up. 2) blade-off the excess


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Did you have to do any guide work on it???? when you honed it out. run that process by for the masses here.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> Did you have to do any guide work on it???? when you honed it out. run that process by for the masses here.


we dodge a bullet with the valve guides...even though the exhaust felt loose to me, it was well within spec per the special Briggs tool that I purchased. 


I didn't hone it either, there wasn't any ring-ridge & the cylinder bore + ring end-gap were perfect. I've read with kool-bore engines (aluminum cylinder), honing may do more harm than good...albeit it's tough to separate internet fact from fiction. 

Regardless, I'll treat it like a normal break-in and change the oil after a few runs. Rings are repositioned so they may still cut a new path in the cylinder walls. 

for the masses...

I measured the cylinder bore using telescopic bore guages & a micrometer. 


For the ring end-gap, you have to carefully (!) remove the rings from the piston and carefully (!) insert them into the cylinder, pushing them into position using the piston..then use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. Refer to the "reject tables" in the service manual.



One other thing to check, is the crankshaft end-play. This is important since it determines which sump gasket to use. This Briggs actually has a pretty tight tolerance per the service manual...0.002" minimum. I initially used an 0.080 gasket & I couldn't turn the crank...So I went with a thicker sump gaskset to get some end play.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Hi Classiccat,
I have to say I've really enjoyed following this thread.It has both solved a mystery and brought back memories from my childhood.

My father owned a snowblower when I was very young that I,nor he, could remember the make or model of.After seeing your Allis and doing some research,I've determined the machine in question was the Simplicity version of it.The only difference was the paint.Excellent machine-he really liked it.

I know this will probably upset a few people,but I always liked the Briggs L-head blower motors more than the Tecumsehs.They always seemed to be more powerful,size for size,than the Tec's-just my opinion.The Briggs updraft carbs can be a real pain when corrosion makes them start leaking around the sealing area of the main nozzle,but it can be dealt with.

My personal favorite snowblower was a 70's era Snapper 824 with a Briggs L-head 8hp engine.I used it at a hotel maintenance job for 13 years and the thing was pretty much un-stoppable-lot's of power,very reliable.

I presently own two Ariens ST824's,a Toro 521(with HF Greyhound engine) and an Allis Chalmers 828 Sno-Pro.None of these machines have the guts that old Snapper had.

Very much looking forward to further updates on this project.Thanks.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

*Tracker 7*

I have the identical machine I got from my mother in laws garage when she passed in 03......it hadn't been used since 1975, and was totally mint. a carb cleaning and it served me well for three years when the transmission jammed between gears and I parked it. I was able this year to find it's twin, a Simplicity 7, intending to swap out the tranny, but I was able to fix the Allis's instead, so am stripping down the simplicity for restoration. It was a great performing blower, except for the shifting fork jamming between gears.....fried the belts I'll tell you!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

classiccat said:


> we dodge a bullet with the valve guides...even though the exhaust felt loose to me, it was well within spec per the special Briggs tool that I purchased.
> 
> 
> I didn't hone it either, there wasn't any ring-ridge & the cylinder bore + ring end-gap were perfect. I've read with kool-bore engines (aluminum cylinder), honing may do more harm than good...albeit it's tough to separate internet fact from fiction.
> ...


 there should of been gaskets in the overhaul/seal kit.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Mike C. said:


> Hi Classiccat,
> I have to say I've really enjoyed following this thread.It has both solved a mystery and brought back memories from my childhood.
> 
> My father owned a snowblower when I was very young that I,nor he, could remember the make or model of.After seeing your Allis and doing some research,I've determined the machine in question was the Simplicity version of it.The only difference was the paint.Excellent machine-he really liked it.
> ...


Thanks for swingin'-by the thread Mike C.!

I wouldn't mind one bit if you have some pics of that old Allis tracker in-action and shared them in this thread! 

Don't worry about offending anyone with the Tec vs Briggs comment. Now the Briggs vs Harbor Freight may ruffle a few feathers however this is an old-iron thread so no worries. k:

I have an '89 Tec HM80 on a Toro that's a wild beast. This old Briggs seems to be well behaved...like a tamed pit-bull.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

cranman said:


> I have the identical machine I got from my mother in laws garage when she passed in 03....*..it hadn't been used since 1975, and was totally mint.* a carb cleaning and it served me well for three years when the transmission jammed between gears and I parked it. I was able this year to find it's twin, a Simplicity 7, intending to swap out the tranny, but I was able to fix the Allis's instead, so am stripping down the simplicity for restoration. It was a great performing blower, except for the shifting fork jamming between gears.....fried the belts I'll tell you!


cranman...you can't drop a reply like this ....without pictures man!! That's just mean!!! :icon-hgtg:

You should start a rebuild thread when you get the Simplicity Sno-away project going! k:


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

I did some more looking today and found the actual model number of my father's old Simplicity Snow-Away(aka Allis tracker-7).

Turns out it was a model 990372 and likely made in 1967 or 68.

I wish I had some photos of my old man using that thing,but when you're a kid(probably 8-10) you don't think of those things.

I did find out what happened to the old girl.Something broke in the transmission,my father was given another blower,so the Briggs was yanked off,sold,and the rest went to the scrap yard.

The 1984 Allis Sno-Pro(Simplicity 828) I have now is nothing like its ancestor.For all of its huge size and menacing looks, it's a pretty lousy performer.I'd love to yank that Tecumseh off of it and install a nice old 10hp Briggs L-head.I think she'd become a whole different animal.Cheers.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

cranman said:


> I have the identical machine I got from my mother in laws garage when she passed in 03......it hadn't been used since 1975, and was totally mint. a carb cleaning and it served me well for three years when the transmission jammed between gears and I parked it. I was able this year to find it's twin, a Simplicity 7, intending to swap out the tranny, but I was able to fix the Allis's instead, so am stripping down the simplicity for restoration. It was a great performing blower, except for the shifting fork jamming between gears.....fried the belts I'll tell you!


Yes,by all means,share this adventure with us.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

cranman said:


> I have the identical machine I got from my mother in laws garage when she passed in 03......it hadn't been used since 1975, and was totally mint. a carb cleaning and it served me well for three years when the transmission jammed between gears and I parked it. I was able this year to find it's twin, a Simplicity 7, intending to swap out the tranny, but I was able to fix the Allis's instead, so am stripping down the simplicity for restoration. It was a great performing blower, except for the shifting fork jamming between gears.....fried the belts I'll tell you!


Pictures of cranman's diamond in the rough (_"stolen" from another thread_ :wavetowel2 what a beautiful machine! A little WD40 bath (_my favorite degreaser_) and she'd look like she rolled off of the assembly line!


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I'll try the WD 40....I've just started using Simple Green to clean up the blowers I've been working on and am happy with the results.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

When the forecast indicated that we would be getting some accumulation today, I threw the machine together & added some baler belt to the impeller fins. $20 and I still have 56" of belt left 




The idea is to put the machine through its paces before spiffing it up with body work & paint.


Overall I'm very happy with the performance...threw the slop really well (even with the fuel shutoff partially closed :facepalm_zpsdj194qh). Mechanically the machine is very sound...no leaks and everything operates as it should.

Some discoveries: 

 39" auger belt is not long enough...40" should do it however the old belt was good enough for some load testing.
 The drive belt tension is very touchy...and I'm guessing this wrecks more of these trannies than anything else. Too-loose and the tranny doesn't engage...too tight and it is always engaged making shifting destructive. So my advice to folks with this machine is to put just enough tension on the stationary idler pulley that the tranny pulley does not spin...then adjust the touch-o-matic set-screw / rods so there's no slack. My machine takes a 56" belt.
If I throttle-up before allowing it to get warm, it will smoke like crazy & I even had oil pass out of the muffler.  Everything looks hunky-dory in the compression chamber..*.that leaves the loose valve guide*; I'm suspecting oil is being pulled-up from the breather when cold. Once I locate the remaining "special tools", I'll be replacing that valve guide bushing despite what the "gauge" is telling me.
I've found instructions in the service manual that suggest setting this engine between 3700 & 4000 RPM NO-Load. I don't have the stones to go that high so she'll be set to 3600...however there's comfort knowing that I'm guard-banding a few hundred RPM though k:


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

...after I made that last post, like a crabber checking his pots, I figured I'd swing by fleabay and check my saved searches.



Jackpot! Dirt cheap too!


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Glad to see you got her operational already! Sounded good in the video too...... I'll have to keep my eyes open for one to pop up for sale..... I have seen them from time to time.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Hey 'Cat,
Glad to see you are moving along with the Allis.Intersting you should mention the smoking on cold-start issue.Just before the Snapper 824 I mentioned previously was taken from me,the 8hp Briggs was just starting to have that issue.It was still an incredibly ballsy engine,though.

I will be following this to see if the valve-guide job solves the problem as I often wondered what ailed the Snapper.

Cheers,M.C.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Mike C. said:


> Hey 'Cat,
> Glad to see you are moving along with the Allis.Intersting you should mention the smoking on cold-start issue.Just before the Snapper 824 I mentioned previously was taken from me,the 8hp Briggs was just starting to have that issue.It was still an incredibly ballsy engine,though.
> 
> I will be following this to see if the valve-guide job solves the problem as I often wondered what ailed the Snapper.
> ...


Right now, it's fine as long as you start it @ mid-throttle and allow it to idle for a minute.

With that said, the bushing replacement kit is here and it's taking every every ounce of restraint not to bust-open the engine again and replace it! We may have a storm this week and I really want to work this machine!

The components of the kit are the puller/nut/washer. This is an older kit and it has a tap incorporated into the puller. The newer kits have a stand-alone tap (which I already purchased); I'm not sure if it's for a cost-savings measure or performance?


Once you get the old bushing out, the new bushing goes in grooves-first and is placed into the recess using the bushing driver: 


Final step of the process is to ream the bushing to size. the reamer goes through the reamer-guide (_as shown_) that sits in the valve seat:


That's alot of kit for $25.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Fugly Alice got a little taste of the white stuff yesterday...yes, April-4th!

She was definitely hungry for a full bucket. 

It's pretty sad that this was the most that old-man winter would feed her this season.






That old Briggs is super-smoooooth.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Now there's a walk down memory lane......... I even see that electric blower listed in there. Pretty cool to see the exact one and it still looks that good this many years later! Yours of course is needing a "little help" lol


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*All righty there BROTHER CC. with all that left over bailer belt you can hand it down to your great, great, great , great grand kids.mg::emoticon-south-parkk:k:k:*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*BROTHER CC. was finally unmasked in that vid. *


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

bad69cat said:


> Now there's a walk down memory lane......... I even see that electric blower listed in there. Pretty cool to see the exact one and it still looks that good this many years later! Yours of course is needing a "little help" lol


Just a "little"  If I need a break from restoring my vintage StarCraft, I may give Alice a "little" make-over.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *All righty there BROTHER CC. with all that left over bailer belt you can hand it down to your great, great, great , great grand kids.mg::emoticon-south-parkk:k:k:*


Actually I may start handing it out to my neighbors...wimpiest displays of snow-plume that I've ever seen


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

classiccat said:


> Actually I may start handing it out to my neighbors...wimpiest displays of snow-plume that I've ever seen


What didn't the bailer belt work all that great???????????????


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> What didn't the bailer belt work all that great???????????????


Allis throws with some authority thanks to the bailer belt...She only has 2 impeller fins which probably help in smaller snowfalls.

the neighbors that I drove past were barely reaching the edge of their driveways...clearly not SBF members (_with or without "Like" buttons_)


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Old Alice chewin' with her mouth open again.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*You can always send some my way. been thinking about doing it to "SR". so I can really tick off some of neighbors here in the Hood.:yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:*


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Alice is till working strong. I haven't used my Tracker 7 for a few years now...I've got to dust her off and do the impeller kit!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

cranman said:


> Alice is till working strong. I haven't used my Tracker 7 for a few years now...I've got to dust her off and do the impeller kit!


Don't be stingy when you run her cranman... make videos and share with your buddies k: 

I reserve my toro 824 for the front, sloped driveway ...where I need good traction (_and impressive snow plume for the neighbors _). 

When Big Red is done whoopin' my butt out front... I fire up old Alice for a nice, calm cruise through the backyard making dog paths. The machine is surprisingly nimble considering its size/mass!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

*Allis Chalmers Sno Bee 7*

Alice's powerplant is getting a make-over (_replaced the exhaust valve guide... waiting until it warms enough to apply some lipstick_)...

I stumbled on this FB Marketplace ad for what appears to be the predecessor of the AC Tracker series...a Sno Bee 7 out in Cicero NY. 

I thought Sno Bees were only single stages.

The only difference that I see is that it doesn't have a locking differential on the left-wheel...same MASSIVE transaxle driving it.










left tire...no locking diff


















same controls:









here's Alice (_minus the briggs for the moment_) getting some fresh air with some new members of the Old Iron fleet:


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

With warm weather right around the corner, I prepped the Briggs for final coats of paint.









Anticipating being able to mount her back-up, I pulled-out the old iron fleet ... 









...so that I could rearrange the shed and throw a set of chains on her.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

classiccat said:


> With warm weather right around the corner, I prepped the Briggs for final coats of paint.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


* MAZEL TOV on That 1. BROTHER CC. :wavetowel2:*


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * MAZEL TOV on That 1. BROTHER CC. :wavetowel2:*


Thanks T! 

I'm excited to fire-up this old briggs again; her and her fancy new exhaust valve guide that I swapped out awhile back. 

This is the tap/puller grabbing hold of the worn-out guide









Slipped out with minimal effort using the kit shown a few posts back.









The new one was pressed in until it bottomed-out and i used the supplied ream to get it to spec.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Final coats of Johnson Outboard paint on the old Briggs. 

I like the almond tint ...gives it that vintage vibe 



















...the big question will be how well this paint holds up to fuel spills.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I did some welding on the chute and re-mounted the original '69 Briggs yesterday (_off for exhaust valve guide replacement and repaint_):









I'm trying this more modern muffler / deflector mainly to keep the exhaust out of my face when i'm making carb adjustments (_getting to the idle mixture screw is a royal PITA_).









This engine is the easiest I've ever had to start... pops-off about 1/2 way through the 1st pull.

If I want to keep this muffler, i need to enlarge the muffler hole a bit as it melted the outboard paint where it was touching:









Don't worry about the soot...it was running really rich when it first fired-up and i had moly coating the valve stem from the valve guide replacement.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

My Tracker 7 has tranny issues that I've been unable to resolve...got a parts machine to swap a new one into....


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

cranman said:


> My Tracker 7 has tranny issues that I've been unable to resolve...got a parts machine to swap a new one into....


that sucks cranman! the slide-gear transmission looks pretty straightforward. the most complexity i see in the parts breakdown is the planetary gear assembly that they call the "low speed pulley" connected to the transmission input shaft. You have to keep it pumped-up with grease.

My only transmission issue is that I can't seem to get the fill-level plug off so I've been filling it with SAE30 by eyeballing-it through the fill-hole...erring on the high-side of course.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I'm torn on which new tire to put on this beast; I love the look of xtrac but there isn't a 14" on a 6" RIM; only 13x4, 13x5 and 15x5.

The slide-gear transmission / diff should be able to handle more torque of larger diameter, and the 3rd gear speed will increase (it needs that) at the expense of the 1st gear...which is already pretty fast; not much of a creeper speed on this guy.

The only other option would be a 14" superLug (Ag style) but I've never used Ag tires in snow. 

thoughts?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Replaced the exhaust valve guide AGAIN on the old Briggs flatty (‘1969 7HP). 








Last time I did it, after reaming it still had slop even with a brand new valve. 

This time I didn’t ream and it’s perfect; The tiniest amount of play. 

Now no black cloud at starting/warm-up. 

I’m excited to put this machine back into service (once I decide on what kicks to put on her...above post!)


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Find some 14 TORO Tires knobs 4 it. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:*


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## toromike (Aug 20, 2018)

classiccat said:


> I'm torn on which new tire to put on this beast; I love the look of xtrac but there isn't a 14" on a 6" RIM; only 13x4, 13x5 and 15x5.
> . . .
> The only other option would be a 14" superLug (Ag style) but I've never used Ag tires in snow.
> thoughts?


I used a Toro 524 that had Ag lug tires on it a couple times. It did fine but the conditions were not demanding. How is the handlebar height? If too low maybe put the 15x5 on it to raise the bars a bit.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *Find some 14 TORO Tires knobs 4 it. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k:*


dude! Maybe I'll steal the 14's off of my 824 and throw some 13 x-tracs on the toro...along with some *Bloody Shear Pins!* Oh the humanity! :devil: :devil: :devil: 

In all seriousness, if i can find another set of Toro 14's, that would be money...those Toro knobbies are unstoppable. Honda 14's also look pretty wicked (snowhogs on steroids) however super expensive.



toromike said:


> I used a Toro 524 that had Ag lug tires on it a couple times. It did fine but the conditions were not demanding. How is the handlebar height? If too low maybe put the 15x5 on it to raise the bars a bit.


Man that's a good point there toromike! As of now, the Alice's handle-bars are perfect...right at my hips. Thanks for the feedback on the Ag's!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Alice got herself some sexy new shoes for Christmas; MONSTER 15" Carlisle X-tracs.

I sanded the bead sections smooth, treated the rust with phosphoric acid (turns it black), neutralized the acid, cleaned w/ brake cleaner then coated with Amsoil MPHD.

















If you're interested in mounting without tubes...read on:

They were a little tricky to mount and set the bead due to them being distorted in storage/shipping.









I got some of the shipping memory by inflating it with an old tube and relaxing the rubber a bit with a heat gun.









ultimately, I used an old trick of removing the schrader valve core, compressing the tire with a ratchet strap & stuffed the bead area with plastic bags to set the bead...inflate (and keep inflated) and rest the mounted tire near the heat so that the tire sits naturally in the rim.









2 days later, I deflated, broke the bead, pulled out the bags and the bead set right up!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)




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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Very Nice,CC.


Seems to me I recall you saying the Briggs needed valve guide work-did you ever continue on with that?


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

You make me want to dig my Tracker 7 out of storage and fix the tranny!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Mike C. said:


> Very Nice,CC.
> 
> 
> Seems to me I recall you saying the Briggs needed valve guide work-did you ever continue on with that?


Thanks Mike, I did...twice!

After the initial valve guide swap + reaming, I still had play.

So I bought a brand new exhaust valve...still had play; the stem diameters of old/new were identical.

So...swapped in another exhaust valve guide and didn't ream; perfect fit and NO black cloud of smoke at start-up.

Only thing left is to build a bracket for mounting an LED flood. 



cranman said:


> You make me want to dig my Tracker 7 out of storage and fix the tranny!


Yeah man, you've been pretty stingy with that thing! Take lots of pics and document that tear-down / rebuild! :grin:

a little more motivation :devil:


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* I Thought about putting those X-TRACS on "SR". But I can not Bring myself to Put Made in China tires. On made in the USA Steel. :facepalm_zpsdj194qhk:k:k:k:k:k:k:*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

classiccat said:


> Alice got herself some sexy new shoes for Christmas; MONSTER 15" Carlisle X-tracs.
> 
> I sanded the bead sections smooth, treated the rust with phosphoric acid (turns it black), neutralized the acid, cleaned w/ brake cleaner then coated with Amsoil MPHD.
> 
> ...


* Should have used that High FLOOTING Fluid film in there instead. :devil::devil::devil::devil::devil:*


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

cranman said:


> You make me want to dig my Tracker 7 out of storage and fix the tranny!


I wouldn't miss any part of that show-don't tease us,man.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * Should have used that High FLOOTING Fluid film in there instead. :devil::devil::devil::devil::devil:*


what good is the rotten a$$ smell of Fluid Film if it's all hidden-away inside of a tire. :question:

Blanket the outside of your machine with that stuff so that the wife / daughter have to hold their noses when they walk through the garage. :grin::grin::devil: 

_Pro Tip: Every square inch of my Tundra is covered in that fluid film stuff (and Amsoil MPHD in the high exposure areas)...my girls won't go within 10' of it...and the interior is clean as a whistle_ :icon_whistling: k:


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

@cranman guilted me into giving old Alice a little affection.

To get her to stop marking her spot, I brought her into the garage...looking down on the red mistress:









fuel usually drips from the bolt that connects the throttle control plate to the carb intake:









adding these tiny teflon washers (_per an old Briggs TSB_) has stopped 2 of my Briggs snow engines from leaking past the emulsion tube seat and into the carb intake.


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