# Auger Case Drain Plug Rusted in



## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

Hi guys, I have greased and oiled my Simplicity 860 dlx as per the owners manual instructions. However I wanted to change out the auger wormgear oil only to find the drain plug being rusted in. Even the outside of the plug had rust on it. I have CRC'd the crap out of the threads but of course its only getting to the exposed threads and not penetrating past that. Any suggestions on how to break loose the drain plug? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!!!!


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

daddy128j said:


> Any suggestions on how to break loose the drain plug? Any info would be greatly appreciated!
> QUOTE]
> 
> One member here I think Liftoff mentions you could try to heat the plug then spray some PB Blaster on the thread as when cooling down the PB Blaster will penetrate deeper in the threads. Try this and report back.


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

Hi guys, I recently picked up a Simplicity 860 DLX at an estate sale. It looks and runs like new. I have greased and oiled as per the owners manual instructions. However I wanted to change out the auger wormgear oil only to find the drain plug being rusted in. Even the outside of the plug had rust on it. I have CRC'd the crap out of the threads but of course its only getting to the exposed threads and not penetrating past that. Any suggestions on how to break loose the drain plug? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!!!!


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## PolarNorth (Sep 7, 2015)

Agree with Normex, I'm a big PB Blaster fan...._sometimes magical in the results_.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

I like using a pencil flame propane torch to break free rusted nuts and bolts. When I removed the skids on the old Toro 524 I showed my son how spraying with PB Blaster for days on end resulted in busted carriage bolts on the first skid. However on the rest, heating them for just a few seconds with the torch and the nuts came right off.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

better use a little heat on the subject at hand.k:k:k:k:k:


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

My neighbor has some PB Buster Penetrating Oil Catalyst but neither of us have a torch. I am going to try the Penetrating oil and let it soak overnite. Maybe give it another application tomorrow and a couple bangs from a hammer if the first app does nothing. If after a couple days it still does not break loose, I will pickup a propane torch and give that a try. Hopefully I won't have to use a torch as I have never had any experience with one at all lol!!! I'm sure that residual penetrating oil left on the threads is flammable. Hopefully I wont find out the hard way!!! 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!!!!


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## Biketrax (Jan 28, 2015)

Good Suggestions So Far! 
In addition to heat and sprays!
Old Machinist trick.
On the really tuff situations,(usually on longer threaded bolts) I Also Like to treat a sensitive bolt like a tap. Reverse your direction on occasion to allow the rust and other debris to crumble and a little more breathing room for your threads to cut through! You can generally feel if its still hard. This can sometimes avoid breaking a bolt!!
Cheers. :icon_whistling:


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

daddy128j said:


> My neighbor has some PB Buster Penetrating Oil Catalyst but neither of us have a torch. I am going to try the Penetrating oil and let it soak overnite. Maybe give it another application tomorrow and a couple bangs from a hammer if the first app does nothing. If after a couple days it still does not break loose, I will pickup a propane torch and give that a try. Hopefully I won't have to use a torch as I have never had any experience with one at all lol!!! I'm sure that residual penetrating oil left on the threads is flammable. Hopefully I wont find out the hard way!!!
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions guys!!!!



Pick up a bernzomatic propane torch at the hardware store. Get the one with the instant light push button igniter if it is available with a pencil flame tip. It regulate the flame better that the one with the variable valve. The flame on those variable valve units can vary depending on how you hold the cylinder and you can go from a 1" flame to a 4" without notice. 

They are cheap and really handy for this type of problem and little plumbing emergencies. MPAA gas torch is more money, but maybe too hot for what you need to do although it does much better on the plumbing jobs if the fittings get bigger.


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

There is an old trick that works pretty good on rusted bolts & brake bleeder
screws. Use a torch, gas & o2 get it glowing red and throw an ice cold wet rag or towel on it . Works every time!!


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

I forgot to mention earlier that this drain plug has a square head on it. Its definitely not a normal round headed plug. I've been using vice grips to grab it. Do they make a socket that will fit the square head? Sorry for the stupid question!!! I am definitely not a mechanic but know just enough to be dangerous. Thanks again!!!


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

daddy128j -- I'm guessing an open ended wrench or a cresent wrench will do the trick.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Get yourself a large adjustable wrench. Work it back and forth if needed. Mine was a rusty machine as well and it will break free. I dont think your getting enough leverage with a vise grip. I generally try to keep heat away from a gear box. Possible to melt, burn, shrink seals, etc.


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

The Vice grips are a large set. I believe I'm getting enough leverage but I can definitely try my large adjustable wrench. I'm just concerned about snapping the head off the plug. Would be my luck!!! I sure hope this PB stuff helps loosen it as I have never used a torch before and definitely don't want to worry about messing up the seals or anything.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

daddy128j said:


> I forgot to mention earlier that this drain plug has a square head on it. Its definitely not a normal round headed plug. I've been using vice grips to grab it. Do they make a socket that will fit the square head? Sorry for the stupid question!!! I am definitely not a mechanic but know just enough to be dangerous. Thanks again!!!


if you measure diagonally across corners of the plug, you will get the right 12 point socket size, for example a 3/8 square oil drain plug needs a 7/16 socket. That being said, if it's stuck that hard, a 12 point socket might round it off and make the problem worse, if the Vicegrips have not done that already.


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

Thanks skutflut. The vice grips haven't rounded the ends, its still perfectly square. But I definitely understand how that could happen using them or a 12 point socket. That plug is like welded in there lol. I've got a feeling the previous owner never maintained the gearbox at all.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

daddy128j said:


> I forgot to mention earlier that this drain plug has a square head on it. Its definitely not a normal round headed plug. I've been using vice grips to grab it. Do they make a socket that will fit the square head? Sorry for the stupid question!!! I am definitely not a mechanic but know just enough to be dangerous. Thanks again!!!


Yes they make a square head socket. Looks like this. You can also get a small butane torch to heat the plug. Use the correct tool so you don't round off the plug.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

if you use a 3/8 extension that works great too


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

Two other suggestions:
1) Tap on the end of the plug with a medium-sized hammer and light-medium force a bunch of times. Like 30-50 times. That may help break it loose.

2) Use a pipe wrench (one of these:







).

Unlike other wrenches, they grip tighter the harder you pull on them. Possibly enough to break the plug off though so be careful.

Those two work especially well when done in order, after using penetrating oil.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I agree with Zavie. Having a set of 8 point sockets solves these type of 4 sided bolt/plug issues.


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

*Auger Case Drain Plug Removed*

:wavetowel2: Eureka!!!! After a soaking in PB Blaster and a couple rounds of heating with the torch, it finally broke loose. Thanks to all for the help!!! This group is awesome!!!!


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

:wavetowel2: Thanks for the help! After soaking overnite in PB Blaster and then a couple of rounds with the torch, it finally broke free!


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## PolarNorth (Sep 7, 2015)

Congrats daddy128j! Very happy you have a successful resolution


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

daddy128j said:


> :wavetowel2: Thanks for the help! After soaking overnite in PB Blaster and then a couple of rounds with the torch, it finally broke free!


That looks like the fill plug to me, not the drain plug. Anyways congrats on the succes....!


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

Thanks Hsblowerfan. On this model, the fill plug and the drain plug are the same thing.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

daddy128j said:


> Thanks Hsblowerfan. On this model, the fill plug and the drain plug are the same thing.


Just interested how was the level when you removed the plug?


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## daddy128j (Nov 6, 2015)

It was low. I couldn't see exactly how low but it was definitely below the lower edge of the plug opening. I drained it all out and added new oil. It was hard to see in the case. I just kept slowly adding oil until it rejected it and started dripping out the hole. It used about half of the the contents of the Simplicity Worm Gear Oil container. Maybe a little less. Hopefully I should be good.


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## grouchy-hermit (Feb 5, 2015)

That plug seems like a good candidate for some anti-seize.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

daddy128j said:


> :wavetowel2: Eureka!!!! After a soaking in PB Blaster and a couple rounds of heating with the torch, it finally broke loose. Thanks to all for the help!!! This group is awesome!!!!


heat is an amazing thing...


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