# Chute Control Cable Freeze Up



## skybar

I have a brand new Platinum 24 blower. On my second usage the chute control cable froze up and I was unable to direct the snow. I had done a lot of research on Ariens vs Toro and went with the Ariens. Now that I have encountered this problem I did a search specific to this problem and it looks like this has been an ongoing problem for Ariens. What good are all the remote controls for the chute control direction and angle if it is going to freeze in every snowstorm. It is not like I use it in the summer. I am very concerned I have made a bad choice. Am I worrying for nothing? When it happened I read the manual and tried to adjust the nuts but I did not realize it was frozen and not just in need of an adjustment. Three days later the dealer came over and adjusted the cable and nuts so it is ready again, I think. I wanted the Platinum because of these extra features but if Ariens cannot built a machine that is weatherproof what good is it? It is stored outside so keeping it warm is not an option. I cannot bring it inside because of the gas. Can anybody reassure me that this was a fluke?


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## micah68kj

You could try lubricating the cable with some type of marine lubricant.
You might want to talk with Blue Hill. He has a Platinum 24 and I believe he's pretty happy with it. Maybe he can give you some ideas.


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## HH4

Bad news is the frozen cables are not a fluke. Mine froze constantly for the first year I had the blower no matter what type of "lube" I used.

Good news is that once I started to fill the cables with antifreeze instead of lube , the chute controls have operated smoothly for the past seven years so far.


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## nt40lanman

Buying an Ariens is never a bad decision. However I'm not as sure on "snowthrower cable controls"


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## skybar

I was afraid I was going to hear this. This is a bad design that seems to have been around forever. Would using a hair dryer along the cable free the jam? I wanted these extra features and never expected the blower to have a cold weather problem.


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## Blue Hill

Hey skybar,
Sounds like HH4 may have the solution. I've read of other members doing that as well. It hasn't been a problem for me (knock on wood) but up here we don't get the temperature swings and freeze/thaw cycles that may happen where you are. Also, wet snow is pretty rare up here. Once it gets cold, it pretty much stays cold.
I still think you made a wise choice with your machine and no matter who builds a snowblower, they will all have little quirks. The trick is, to find the solutions to these and you are in the right place to do that.. If it were mine, I don't think I would do anything unless it happens again. It might not.
Good luck and let us know how you are making out. Everyone here will be more than happy to help.
Larry


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## skybar

Thank you Blue Hill I really appreciate the advice. I just do not understand how a machine designed for only cold weather utilizes parts that cannot handle it. Something right off the factory floor should not require the owner to have to insert antifreeze. Hopefully it will be a one and done problem that I will not encounter again. When searching I see it as far back as 2009. Why has Ariens not fixed it?


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## Blue Hill

skybar said:


> Thank you Blue Hill I really appreciate the advice. I just do not understand how a machine designed for only cold weather utilizes parts that cannot handle it. Something right off the factory floor should not require the owner to have to insert antifreeze. Hopefully it will be a one and done problem that I will not encounter again. When searching I see it as far back as 2009. Why has Ariens not fixed it?


Sorry man, that question I can't help you with.  Maybe HH4 will give us all a step by step on how he did the anti-freeze thing.


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## skybar

HH4 do you have any pictorial of what you have done?


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## Snowmann

Are you at least storing it in a shed? Snowblowers aren't really designed to be stored outside. None are. You'll likely have moisture or weather related issues with any brand if you store them outside. For outdoor storage capability you would need to design in automotive/military type fastener coatings, stainless, or double sided galvanized steel, sealed wet sump transmissions, covered engine bay, control enclosures, expanded use of serviceable lubrication (grease zerks), water recovery type fuel systems or fuel injection, sealed hydraulic or electric actuations, etc. This is all consistent with equipment that can be stored outside.

I've heard of guys filling conduit cables with Fluid Film with success, although I am not familiar with that product.


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## skybar

Yes, it is stored in a shed. I have a big Rubbermaid shed that I store that and my lawnmower. The first storm was a wet icy storm followed by bitter cold weather. The chute was fine when it went into the shed after the first storm. When I pulled it out for the second storm it was frozen. At first I thought it was just an adjustment so I read the manual and played with the two nuts which I think just made it worse. It was not until after the dealer came over and fixed it that I woke up to the fact it was not out of adjusment but instead frozen. Water probably got into it from the first storm and the weather never got above freezing between storms. Maybe I am making more of this then I should but it bothers me that a cold weather machine has a known moisture problem in cold weather. If we get snow in July I should be ok.


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## Blue Hill

For what it's worth skybar, Snowmann works for Ariens, so I trust his advice. If you can get Fluid Film where you're at, it could be an easy fix.


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## dbert

Is there some sort of accordion boot or something on the deflector end to keep water from traveling down the inner core?


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## HH4

Blue Hill said:


> Sorry man, that question I can't help you with.  Maybe HH4 will give us all a step by step on how he did the anti-freeze thing.


Sorry , no pictures but it's pretty straight forward. I remove both cables and bring them inside to warm up and drain any moisture from the inside. I then hold them vertically and use a medicine syringe to apply gas line antifreeze to the cable at the top letting it run along the cable until it flows out the bottom end. This displaces any moisture.

Then I elevate both ends of the cable and introduce the antifreeze at both ends so that it stays inside the housing instead of running out the end and try to keep the cables from draining when you re install. The antifreeze left inside will keep any moisture that forms from freezing.

If you're not comfortable with removing and adjusting the cables once they are installed you can try filling them on the machine. In certain climates its a given that moisture will develop inside these cables at some point. The idea is to prevent that moisture from freezing and most regular lubes are not that effective in preventing freezing.

As I said earlier , this (along with properly adjusted cables) has kept my controls operating flawlessly.


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## skybar

If I were to try Fluid Film, or as some have suggested, anti freeze just how do you go about doing it. I admit to not being overly handy and I have the knack of making things worse when trying to fix them. Case in point I did not realize my problem was do to freezing and messed up the adjustment nuts settings. I actually would prefer a hair dryer approach if everyone thinks that would work. I assume I would just heat up the cable from one end to the other since I would have no idea where the ice is.

I really am bothered that anything has to be done on a machine like this to keep water out of the cables. There must be better cables that Ariens could have used. After all the machine is not cheap. These cable should have a much better shield. This has been a known problem for a number of years. Again, I admit this was my first time encountering it and maybe making to big of an issue about it. If it only occurs once a winter then I can live with it. Right now it is one for two or 50%. Cannot wait for the third storm...


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## HH4

dbert said:


> Is there some sort of accordion boot or something on the deflector end to keep water from traveling down the inner core?


There are boots on the cable ends but as Snowman pointed out it would take military grade hardware to keep all moisture out in all conditions. It even forms from condensation inside the cables in our temp fluctuations.

I should mention that this season I'm trying Sea Foam's Deep Creep penetrating lubricant. It's one of the best products I've used and I thought that since it's Sea Foam based it would act as an antifreeze as well as a lubricant. Plus it comes with the red straw that you can use with the motorcycle cable lubing tools that make it very easy to get the product into the cables. Time will tell if it works as well as the antifreeze.


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## Blue Hill

Just my humble opinion, but gas line antifreeze is pure grain alcohol. I can't imagine that after 7 years it's still inside HH4's cable. I think it must have evaporated by now. I don't doubt for a second that what he tells us is true, that his controls have worked flawlessly ever since the treatment. Maybe it displaced moisture that was in there from assembly and once removed, it doesn't get back in there very easy???
Anyway, your wife's hair dryer should do the trick for warming the cable and the Fluid Film should be easy to apply. You would need some sort of syringe or similar as HH4 suggested to use gas line antifreeze. WD40 also displaces moisture as do other products like Seafoam Deepcreep. They would also be easier to get in there. Squirt it on while the cable is still warm I think, for best results.


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## dbert

I read HH4's use of alcohol as an initial means of removing entrained moisture prior to filling with glycol.


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## HH4

Blue Hill
Your opinion may be humble but it's right on the money! I should have made it clear that I have been doing this at least once every season for the last seven years.


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## dbert

I'd try filling the boots with something like a silicon grease. Not so much for lubrication but to slow down the water ingress. Purge moisture, lube and then protect ends from allowing entry.
Or never take them outside.


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## Blue Hill

HH4 said:


> Blue Hill
> Your opinion may be humble but it's right on the money! I should have made it clear that I have been doing this at least once every season for the last seven years.


Do you do it just as a preventive measure HH4, or does the problem keep coming back?


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## HH4

Freezing re occurs if I don't do it at least once a season. Probably due to the gas line antifreeze evaporating as you pointed out. Glycol would last longer but the alcohol was on hand and easy to use. I'm hoping for good results with the Deep Creep.


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## skybar

Ok. Maybe I am over reacting. I was just taken by surprise when the second time I used the machine the chute was just freewheeling. I did not realize the cable was frozen and thought the adjustment was out of whack. When I attempted to adjust it I only made things worse. So I was not prepared. I just wanted to clear the snow and did not need a balky snow blower. Anyway, if or more likely when, it happens again I will be better prepared and use a hair blower along the cable. I still believe that Ariens should be able to design these cables to not let moisture in as easily as it does. HH4 and Blue Hill your locations have far more severe winters then mine in Massachusetts so if you are not complaining neither should I. I do plan to talk to my Ariens dealer to get his advice. I really do not want to have to take anything apart to inject some antifreeze or something else down the cable. On some other forum someone mentioned using a sandwich bag to cover the ends of the cables. Not sure how they did it. Has anyone seen this method? Out of curiosity which end of the cable is more prone to allowing moisture into? I suspect the end by the handle.

I had a Toro for 18 years and never had anything freeze up. Granted the controls were mechanical linkage and did not use the cables for movement. Still considering the usage of a snow blower this should never happen. I will try to live with it.


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## skybar

Ok. The third snow storm hit last Friday. The dealer had come out after the second snow storm, roughly 10 days earlier, and adjusted the cable. The blower is in a Rubbermaid Slide shed, so it is not in the elements directly. I did not even open the shed after the adjustments to the chute control cable. When the snow stopped I pulled the blower out and the chute was freewheeling again. It would not lock. In order to use it I took the cover off and manually rotated the chute and pushed the spring loaded clip bottom to engage the gears. When I needed to change the chute direction I pushed the top of the spring to disengage the gears, rotated the chute, and then pushed on the bottom of the clip to re-engage the gears. This was how I spent my time with a brand new snow blower. I called the dealer and the next day they picked it up. Of course it got warmer and they said everything was fine and was going to return it and not change anything. I told them no...This was the second time it happened. I even drove down there and demonstrated what I had to do. I told them the spring if released would not lock if locked it would not release unless I manually did it. They have now replaced the entire mechanism, so they say. I assume that is the cable, gears and spring. At this point I hate this blower and regret buying Ariens. I am not touching it again until the next storm. If it fails again I will contact Ariens directly and ask for a refund.


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## FairfieldCT

skybar said:


> Ok. The third snow storm hit last Friday. The dealer had come out after the second snow storm, roughly 10 days earlier, and adjusted the cable. The blower is in a Rubbermaid Slide shed, so it is not in the elements directly. I did not even open the shed after the adjustments to the chute control cable. When the snow stopped I pulled the blower out and the chute was freewheeling again. It would not lock. In order to use it I took the cover off and manually rotated the chute and pushed the spring loaded clip bottom to engage the gears. When I needed to change the chute direction I pushed the top of the spring to disengage the gears, rotated the chute, and then pushed on the bottom of the clip to re-engage the gears. This was how I spent my time with a brand new snow blower. I called the dealer and the next day they picked it up. Of course it got warmer and they said everything was fine and was going to return it and not change anything. I told them no...This was the second time it happened. I even drove down there and demonstrated what I had to do. I told them the spring if released would not lock if locked it would not release unless I manually did it. They have now replaced the entire mechanism, so they say. I assume that is the cable, gears and spring. At this point I hate this blower and regret buying Ariens. I am not touching it again until the next storm. If it fails again I will contact Ariens directly and ask for a refund.


I'm really sorry to hear you are having issues. No one should pay good money for any machine and have it the constant cause of problems and stress. The Ariens of today is not even close to the Ariens of yesterday. A lot of folks here will cut on me for saying so, but all the problems that pop up on this site speak volumes. Contact Ariens immediately and tell them you are returning the blower. If you paid on a credit card, ask the cc company to reverse the charge.

I'm not sure what your budget is, but if you pay a little more you can find a new Honda that will never let you down and is sure to put a smile on your face every time you use it.

I went the Ariens route earlier this season. Got it home, HATED it, returned it and went with the Honda. After a week of grief, I'm thrilled I made the swap. 

Good Luck.


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## Kiss4aFrog

If you had a small plastic syringe as used for oral pet medication you could likely shoot the antifreeze in there with the cable in place.


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## skybar

I do not think it is the cable as the spring clip is on the other end of the cable and basically had no spring to it. Whatever position it was in in the clip would not go back to the other position without me moving it with my hand. 

BTW does anyone know a good contact number with Ariens that if push comes to shove I can call either to get a resolution of this problem or return it without a battle with the dealer? Hopefully it will work the next time and this will be a mute point. But I am very frustrated. My wife is in rehab with a broken hip and I have enough on my plate without a snow blower that only works in July.


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## Blue Hill

I experienced the same problem and I've been meaning to look up this thread to tell you how I think I solved it knock on wood. I went out to move snow one day a couple of weeks ago and the chute wouldn't hold position, no matter what I tried. It had worked fine the previous trip, but this time, not so much. I thought oh crap! This is the same problem as skybar was talking about on SBF. I tried everything. I adjusted the two nuts, every which way, I squirted gas line anti freeze into the cable and on the locking mechanism, I squirted WD40 onto and into everything, nothing worked. The little locking dog would not quite drop down enough to lock the chute into place. Then, I started to kind of reverse engineer the problem by asking myself what was different on the machine, from when it was working properly. I noticed the little hairpin hanger clip, that supports the cable and hangs from the directional control rod, was kind of cockeyed. I was sure it had been hanging straight before, with the cable going through the two bottom loops and keeping the cable quite straight as it followed the rod and went into the locking mechanism. I set this back to where it had been and my problem was solved. I don't pretend to know how this made it work better, I guess when the cable is perfectly straight as it goes into the locking mechanism, it doesn't bind. The chute worked properly that trip out (4 hours) and the next time out (3 hours at -40 wind chill) so I remain hopeful that I stumbled upon the solution. My old dad used to say that he would rather be lucky than good, any day . Come the warmer weather, I think I might see if I can get my hands on a slightly stronger spring so that it's not so finicky. Have a look at your hairpin hanger Skybar and see if it's like mine was.
Good luck,
Larry


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## skybar

Blue Hill, could you please, if possible, post a picture of what you are referring to. I have no time to myself as I am spending 10 hours a day with my wife at a rehab as she broke her hip. The dealer claims he has replaced everything related to the chute control so until the next cold snap I cannot prove he has not fixed it. I have to much going on right now to have to deal with a flaky snow blower. I do greatly appreciate your input and can only hope that the dealer has fixed the problem by a complete replacement of parts even though he has no idea what the source of the problem is. It ticked me off when he was going to send it back to me without doing anything and I had to drive down to his dealership to go over everything. It was the second time in a row it happened and his interest level was not very high with regards to my problem. I am in a hope mode right now.


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## Blue Hill

Sorry for your troubles skybar. I'll have a Kodak moment with my machine and get back to ya.


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## Blue Hill

skybar said:


> Blue Hill, could you please, if possible, post a picture of what you are referring to. I have no time to myself as I am spending 10 hours a day with my wife at a rehab as she broke her hip. The dealer claims he has replaced everything related to the chute control so until the next cold snap I cannot prove he has not fixed it. I have to much going on right now to have to deal with a flaky snow blower. I do greatly appreciate your input and can only hope that the dealer has fixed the problem by a complete replacement of parts even though he has no idea what the source of the problem is. It ticked me off when he was going to send it back to me without doing anything and I had to drive down to his dealership to go over everything. It was the second time in a row it happened and his interest level was not very high with regards to my problem. I am in a hope mode right now.


Ok, here's how the cable was originally. Notice how the cable is secured by the clip and it runs straight into the turn mechanism. Sorry, I can't figure out how to attach more than 1 picture per post. I'll post another.


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## Blue Hill

This is how it was when I was having trouble. I don't know how it got cockeyed, but I managed to do it somehow. After I straightened it out so that it was running into the mechanism straight, I had no more trouble. I don't think it had anything to do with the cable freezing up. I used to have a small bottle of lock de-iced, it was methyl hydrate with graphite mixed in. I think I'll see if I can find some more. It seems to me that the alcohol would carry the graphite in and take care of any ice if there was some there.


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## Kiss4aFrog

The graphite is good but the antifreeze is great as it has rust inhibitors and shouldn't dry out so it stays "active" and would move around as the cable is rotated each time the chute is adjusted. It's likely a bit messier trying to get it in there but it's a great idea and one I'm going to steal for my craftsman as the chute deflectors cable is open at both ends and pointing up. Perfect for collecting water


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## Blue Hill

I'm thinking that methyl hydrate will totally evaporate, K4. It's just pure grain alcohol, but the graphite is the key. An excellent lubricant for something like a lock, or maybe even a chute control cable.


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## skybar

Blue Hill thank you for the photo. It was very considerate of you. I have to look right now but I don't think my blower has that wire. Is it possible my model does not use it. I will have to look when I get a minute and it is day light. Right now it is dark and I just got back from the hospital. Wouldn't it be funny if I am missing something.


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## Blue Hill

If you have a Platinum 24, we have the same machines. Yours should have it


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## ken53

I would check with your dealer to make sure you didn't get an older style cable. 
(Sorry but I personally don't know what the difference in appearance is between the two.)

Here is a quote from Ariens site:

Published 11/08/2011 10:16 PM | Updated 12/03/2013 03:19 PM 
*What can be done when the cable controlling the chute deflector freezes up and stops the machine?*

In some situations, the cable that controls the chute deflector on a Sno-Thro may stop working. One reason for this is that moisture has gotten into the cable (between the inner and outer cable) has settled into a low spot and then freezes. 
Warming the cable and disconnecting the end allowing the water to drain out and then lubricating the cable should help. 
If the problem returns, contact your local Ariens dealer. Newer cables have been developed over the last few years that have a teflon-like coating on the inner cable and will operate even if ice forms inside the cable outer housing. There may be a new style cable that can be retrofitted onto your machine.


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## skybar

Ok, here is an update. Used the blower for the first time since the dealer replaced the entire chute rotation mechanism. Worked perfectly. I felt the control handle seemed much easier to use. Prior I had to lift the handle forcibly before rotating. I though that was normal in order to unlock the gears. Now it is very smooth and does not require the same forceful effort. The next step will come in the next storm to see if moisture is still a problem in case some moisture is in the mechanism and will be frozen when it gets colder. Right now I am tentatively happy. The blower did a great job on my driveway and now I just have to keep my fingers crossed. It seems like I may have had a defective mechanism that kept freezing up. Time will tell.....


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## Surge

If I had a problem with cables freezing I would probably try using Tri-Flow with Teflon lubricant. I originally bought this stuff for my bike chains, but I have used it to lubricate cables on my mower, and on parts of the mower that I do not want to lock up as it leaves a coating of Teflon after it dries. It is supposed to help rust proof and remove moisture, and penetrates better than WD40. I think there is a pin point applicator available as well. I plan on using it on certain parts of my blower when I lubricate it in the spring. Probably the cables as preventative maintenance.


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## djc11369

I purchased a 2014 Platinum 24 and been experiencing this same issue, the chute rotation works very halfa*s. The dealer told me I should just be able to "slap" the stick to the position I want but unfortunately sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I messed around with adjusting the cable as I noticed the part that locks into the gear wasn't going forward all the way but still the same, better but still unreliable. The only way I can get to operate consistently is pull up on the handle, rotate to position and push back down the handle. My experience with the dealer left a bad taste in my mouth from the beginning so not eager to contact them and probably will just continue to do the pull up routine. The cable is not frozen so I can only guess a bad cable.


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## docfletcher

Put the machine in the service position. Look where the shaft enters the bushing, look for the white grommet around the pushing and the inverted star retainer. If you don't see the retainer it is missing. Gotta fix that before you can do anything else. If the bushing/white grommet/retainer is all there then that's great.

Next while in the service position look at the cable and the adjusting nuts. You need to get every bit of slack out that you can. It is supposed to lift up all by itself when you move the handle.

Are you getting a full 110 degree chute rotation both counterclockwise and clockwise?


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## docfletcher

Here is a link of some of what I had to do. It has photos of the bushing/grommet.

My thanks to all the guys that helped me through the issues.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/12618-pro-28-chute-adjustments-question.html


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## skybar

Well, it is interesting to see other problems with the chute control. I have now gone thru 3 storms since everything was replaced and the blower has worked perfectly. I wish I could say I have complete confidence that the problem will not reoccur but I don't. If I had not got mad at the dealer they would have done nothing. I bought from an Ariens dealer because I thought they would provide better service but their interest in my problem was not very high. It seems fixed and the blower does a great job but it has left a sour taste. One of the reasons I picked the Platinum series was the chute control. I would no longer recommend that series and would go with something that was not so "sophisticated" for turning the chute. Manual crank seems more reliable.


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## docfletcher

Well, Skybar, You story is allot like mine. I had a several issues with mine. One of the worst was when the retainer came off the bushing and the dealer fixed it but put the hex bar in backwards. I fixed it myself and told them what they did. They looked at me like I was from Mars and were quick to tell me that it is supposed to be the way they did it. That I was wrong to turn it around. Glad to hear it is working for you though. You might want to just check for that retainer though.


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## djc11369

docfletcher said:


> Put the machine in the service position. Look where the shaft enters the bushing, look for the white grommet around the pushing and the inverted star retainer. If you don't see the retainer it is missing. Gotta fix that before you can do anything else. If the bushing/white grommet/retainer is all there then that's great.
> 
> Next while in the service position look at the cable and the adjusting nuts. You need to get every bit of slack out that you can. It is supposed to lift up all by itself when you move the handle.
> 
> Are you getting a full 110 degree chute rotation both counterclockwise and clockwise?


Thanks, I'll take a look later in the week. It seems I get more rotation to the left than the right. It feels like I'm getting some kind of resistance as it gets to the end of travel to the right. More like 90 degrees to the right.



skybar said:


> One of the reasons I picked the Platinum series was the chute control. I would no longer recommend that series and would go with something that was not so "sophisticated" for turning the chute. Manual crank seems more reliable.


Also one of the reasons I picked the Platinum. I would have went with the manual crank if the handle was in the control area and not in front, not a very convenient location when you have a cab. I've got to say I could have cared less about the heated grips until I used them a few times.  The chute rotation design is lacking in my opinion, the Husqvarna I tried before I bought the Ariens had a better response. I knew I would have to get out the wrenches eventually but wasn't (and shouldn't have to be) expecting this soon. The dealer was a real joke, apparently Ariens needs a better way of vetting their dealers.


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## docfletcher

I hear you loud and clear as I had the same dealer issues. The same chute rotation issue, full travel left but not to the right. I'll link you a thread on the fix for that and the guys that brought the fix to my attention..


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## docfletcher

Here is the link. The first parts of the thread are figuring out what was going on with my chute hex rod, which had be steaming mad. Turns out dealer had it in backwards. The rest of the thread is on full rotation fix.

Sorry the 1st link posted shows the fix and this link shows the modified grommet in one of the photos. Some photos are no longer active but the grommet one is.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/13977-ariens-pro-28-rack-pinion.html


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## djc11369

Thanks, I considered the grommet may relieve the issue although I've got to wonder what the real problem is. They've obviously made a lot of these so if there was a defect you would think it would be apparent in a number of them followed by a number of complaints. Anyway, looks like I've got some more "playing" to do this weekend. Supposed to be warmer so I can take more time without freezing the giblets like this past weekend.


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## docfletcher

I've been told the grommet hole in the dashboard is off by 3/8" and the bottom of the handle is a little to fat.


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## djc11369

3/8"?!  I wonder how they managed that, I'm not looking at it but I'm guessing it's a stamped sheet metal part. It would have to be a tooling error that they must have stamped a few, figured out there was an issue and let the ones done go until they corrected it. Lucky us to get the rejects! Well I guess they didn't reject it in the end, the bottom line prevailed once again.
Thanks for the info.


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## docfletcher

Well the handle itself on some is slightly bent also because it's weld is off. So I've heard. Maybe a combination of both?


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## 94EG8

Get yourself a can of silicone spray lube and a cable oiler like the one shown below:










If the cable has accordion style boots fill those with the silicone lube as well and then when you reinstall them use small ty wraps to keep them from coming off.


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## djc11369

Well I found the first issue to conquer. Good news is I have a retaining ring (or push nut as they call it in the manual). The bad news is the nylon bushing is not being retained in the hole and is free floating to one side of the bracket. Is the flange of the bushing installed on the wrong side or is the whole thing not pressed in completely? Meaning if I push the bushing back in the hole can I drive the retaining ring on farther closing the gap?


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## docfletcher

Once it gets like that it's very hard to get the bushing & white nylon ring back in place properly. Better to take them both out and reinsert them. It looks like the bushing is on the correct side.

What you need to do is pull the pin out of hex shaft on the rack & pinyon end. Then push the shaft toward the handle end and when it clears the rack & pinyon end pull the hex shaft out and away from the handle end. Take the shaft out and notice 2 ears on rack & pinyon end. It's Ok if the bushing, white nylon ring, and push nut come out just catch them in your hand, also support the handle assembly so it don't flop around or fall. 

Put the bushing and white nylon piece into the handle assembly and place the push nut on with the teeth facing away from the handle assembly. Use the socket like shown in book. Push pushnut on as far as you reasonably can. Then put your hex shaft back keeping the end with ears on the rack & pinyon side.


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## r2d

I have all mechanical operation chutes for this reason. I store my single stage mechanical operated blowers in the back of pickup trucks were they meet all sorts of weather and salt. I fluid film every metal part more than once a season. My fellow contractors that have the cable operated quick chute designs also store in back of pickups and fluid film on regular basis. Being a mechanic also, i fluid film all metal parts especially moving parts, on anything i work on. It is the nature of metal to bind and rust and it is the nature of weather to be full of moisture. I also fluid film the chute, paddles and anything else snow comes in contact with. On the two stage i borrow, i fluid film a lot on it but it doesn't see much use. 

Another great product, but off subject, is napa anti seize. Put it on all bolt threads. Probably would work good on cables if you took them apart and coated it with this stuff. It lasts for years as well!


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## djc11369

docfletcher said:


> Once it gets like that it's very hard to get the bushing & white nylon ring back in place properly. Better to take them both out and reinsert them. It looks like the bushing is on the correct side.
> 
> What you need to do is pull the pin out of hex shaft on the rack & pinyon end. Then push the shaft toward the handle end and when it clears the rack & pinyon end pull the hex shaft out and away from the handle end. Take the shaft out and notice 2 ears on rack & pinyon end. It's Ok if the bushing, white nylon ring, and push nut come out just catch them in your hand, also support the handle assembly so it don't flop around or fall.
> 
> Put the bushing and white nylon piece into the handle assembly and place the push nut on with the teeth facing away from the handle assembly. Use the socket like shown in book. Push pushnut on as far as you reasonably can. Then put your hex shaft back keeping the end with ears on the rack & pinyon side.


Thanks, it went pretty easy for the most part. I had to take the push nut back off and I never thought it would come off in a still usable condition but it did. I'm not sure what you're referring to for bushing and nylon ring. There was only the flanged nylon bushing to contend with for mine. The push nut pushed on up to the other side of the bushing which still leaves a little bit of play but I would guess that's by design. I had to readjust the cable afterward and now works much better, better than it did when the dealer dropped it off so it was a obviously problem from the start. I still think it's a crappy design and I doubt it will be the last time I have to fight with it for the duration I own it but it works for now. I now have full travel in both directions as well.


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## docfletcher

The white nylon grommet ring. It goes around the bushing. Then the push nut goes on.

Here is photo of mine with right wing, without push nut before repair...

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ro-28-chute-adjustments-question-dsc_4754-jpg


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## docfletcher

Better view of white grommet ring. From side opposite of push nut.

2014-01-29_1816 - Docfletcher's library


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## djc11369

I see, just a matter of difference in terminology. Thanks for your help, much appreciated!


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## enigma-2

skybar said:


> If I were to try Fluid Film, or as some have suggested, anti freeze just how do you go about doing it. I admit to not being overly handy and I have the knack of making things worse when trying to fix them. Case in point I did not realize my problem was do to freezing and messed up the adjustment nuts settings. I actually would prefer a hair dryer approach if everyone thinks that would work. I assume I would just heat up the cable from one end to the other since I would have no idea where the ice is.
> 
> I really am bothered that anything has to be done on a machine like this to keep water out of the cables. There must be better cables that Ariens could have used. After all the machine is not cheap. These cable should have a much better shield. This has been a known problem for a number of years. Again, I admit this was my first time encountering it and maybe making to big of an issue about it. If it only occurs once a winter then I can live with it. Right now it is one for two or 50%. Cannot wait for the third storm...


I ran across a YouTube video that made it clear how to lube cables. The lube they used is Protect All Cable Life with its cable clamp (sold on Amazon for $18.95 for the kit). The advantage is that the lube will displace moisture and is designed specifically for cables.
Here is the URL if you're interested Protect All 20006 Cable Care Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive

.. 
And here is the YouTube video showing how to do it.




 
No cable is completely water proof, and that goes for motorcycles, snowmobiles, etc. Best thing is to keep the cable lubed and that is what will keep the moisture out. Hopefully.

I think I'll buy a kit and keep it around, not just for my snow blower but for the tractor, tiller and lawnmower as well. It never crossed my mind to lube these cables, but it makes sense now.


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## TOTO

I have the same issues with a 1 year old Honda. The cable that adjusts the chute up or down is froze tight. It worked a week ago. I appreciate all the comments about this problem.


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## 2.137269

welcome to the sbf toto


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## Jason1972

HH4 said:


> Bad news is the frozen cables are not a fluke. Mine froze constantly for the first year I had the blower no matter what type of "lube" I used.
> 
> Good news is that once I started to fill the cables with antifreeze instead of lube , the chute controls have operated smoothly for the past seven years so far.


How do you inject the antifreeze in the cables, my Husqvarna st227 constantly freezes up


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## bnp

HH4 said:


> Bad news is the frozen cables are not a fluke. Mine froze constantly for the first year I had the blower no matter what type of "lube" I used.
> 
> Good news is that once I started to fill the cables with antifreeze instead of lube , the chute controls have operated smoothly for the past seven years so far.


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## sledman8002002

Jason1972 said:


> How do you inject the antifreeze in the cables


Small, cheap syringe works for me. Mine came from a copy machine repair guy, I think he used them to inject ink into the cartridges.


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## Darryl G

sledman8002002 said:


> Small, cheap syringe works for me. Mine came from a copy machine repair guy, I think he used them to inject ink into the cartridges.
> 
> View attachment 190235


Irrigation or feeding syringe. You can get them at any drug store or pet store. They're very handy. I last used mine when I overfilled the power steering reservoir on my truck.


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## Hollowpoint

Used those for brake fluid on motorcycles, drain and fill.


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## Tony-chicago

You mean I don't have to keep my torch with me for the old craftsman!
As for emptying fluids, I use hand sprayers, from like a windex bottle for example.


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## orangputeh

sledman8002002 said:


> Small, cheap syringe works for me. Mine came from a copy machine repair guy, I think he used them to inject ink into the cartridges.
> 
> View attachment 190235


can you imagine being pulled over by cops with this in front seat..."officer, this is for anti-freeze for my snowblower cables"

ya, okay kid, let's go downtown.


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## Darryl G

Just read through the whole thread and I don't see any mention of the chute itself freezing. Than can happen too. If it does, don't force it. Free it up by any number of methods. I usually use windshield deicer since I'm usually out on locations and always have a can with me. I'm sure not going to thaw it with my precious coffee!

You don't want to freeze up your impeller or augers either, so clean those too if you're storing the machine in below freezing temperatures. Just letting them spin in place for a while will get rid of a lot of the build up.


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## sledman8002002

orangputeh said:


> ya, okay kid, let's go downtown


'kid' LOL 
If they ask about tracks they can look-see if any are in the box...


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