# Husqvarna friction disc



## jaytpilk

I have a 1030E and the friction disc ...ain't pretty to look at, but: How often do people replace these when the "drive" isn't workin well? I'm searching for a new friction wheel (not easy to find), and was thinking of getting a new plate/disc to give the machine the best chance of running/driving great.

Thanks.


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## SAVAGE420

If it's not completely worn out you can adjust it to grab quicker.
I have a 1980 Toro 11/32 that has the original rubber disk. Still grabs strong to this day.
My Husqvarna ST330P is hydrostatic, so I never have to worry about a friction disk drive.
Throw up a pic of yours, see if you have any adjustment left. 

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk


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## db130

If this is the one with Yamaha heritage, *get ready for sticker shock*


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## jaytpilk

SAVAGE420 said:


> If it's not completely worn out you can adjust it to grab quicker.
> I have a 1980 Toro 11/32 that has the original rubber disk. Still grabs strong to this day.
> My Husqvarna ST330P is hydrostatic, so I never have to worry about a friction disk drive.
> Throw up a pic of yours, see if you have any adjustment left.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk


I always get tripped up on the correct terminology... I thought the "disc" was the 'record player' metal plate that rises up when the drive is engaged and presses against the rubber friction "wheel". My rubber wheel is good, but, the metal plate it runs on has some surface rust. I cleaned it up a year ago and actually scratched it up GOOD so as to give more traction to the rubber wheel; I thought that was a good idea. 

So that's what I'm asking: How often do people swap out that metal plate? I'll grab a picture shortly.


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## Oneacer

The friction disc is the rubber wheel.

The drive plate is the flat circular metal plate that the friction wheel mates up to.

The drive plate should be smooth and clean of all grease and rust. I would not be " scratching it up good".


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## jaytpilk

oneacer said:


> The friction disc is the rubber wheel.
> 
> The drive plate is the flat circular metal plate that the friction wheel mates up to.
> 
> The drive plate should be smooth and clean of all grease and rust. I would not be " scratching it up good".


The plate was so smooth, I thought the rubber wheel was slipping on it. That was a couple years ago. Now it has a slight amount of corrosion, so, I guess to my point - it's adding to the traction. 

But again, my question: How often do people replace these? Obviously, every situation is different, but, I would think for every ...100 rubber wheels that get replaced, 1 metal plate would need to be replaced. I can't imagine they wear out that much.

Thank you.


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## Oneacer

The only way a rubber friction disc is going to "slip" on a mating with its drive plate counterpart, is if it is a bad friction disc or out of adjustment. All my blowers, and all that I have worked on in my life, were always operating on a nice clean, smooth drive plate.

I have refurbished snowblowers for well over 30 years, and working on all these units, I have never replaced a drive plate.

I have seen online of where people do not maintain there machines, and instead of replacing a wear item such as the friction disc, they just keep adjusting it till its metal on metal, and thus destroying the drive plate.


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## jaytpilk

oneacer said:


> The only way a rubber friction disc is going to "slip" on a mating with its drive plate counterpart, is if it is a bad friction disc or out of adjustment. All my blowers, and all that I have worked on in my life, were always operating on a nice clean, smooth drive plate.
> 
> I have refurbished snowblowers for well over 30 years, and working on all these units, I have never replaced a drive plate.
> 
> I have seen online of where people do not maintain there machines, and instead of replacing a wear item such as the friction disc, they just keep adjusting it till its metal on metal, and thus destroying the drive plate.


Perfect, thanks oneacer, that's exactly what I needed to hear - I don't think I'll be replacing the friction plate. Weird though, when I put the machine in a forward gear and then actuate the grip lever to engage the drive, the wheels won't turn immediately. I may see them 'jerk' forward but then stop. Almost the same in reverse, but, a bit more engagement. When I lift the machine so the wheels are off the ground, they spin nicely - forward and back. When I take the lower cover plate off, I can see the rubber friction wheel hitting the plate and making good contact. With the engine off, in a forward gear and the drive engaged - wheels off ground - I can't turn the wheels. There is a fine 'mate' between friction wheel and plate such that it won't slip and let snowblower wheels turn. Not sure why the machine is "jerking". Wish I could see what is going on when the machine is running, wheels on the ground and I try to drive. I don't see wear/flat spots on rubber friction wheel...... Hmmm. More investigating needed


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## ST1100A

An easier way to remember what they are called. The DRIVE disc is the metal plate that actually does the DRIVE of the other part.
That is called the DRIVEN disc, because it is DRIVEN by the DRIVE disc or plate.
Different manufacturers call them by different names.
The rubber tire on the DRIVEN disc is a very common wear item. They can harden up and slip from loss of traction or just plain wear themselves out, like a tire does on an automobile. When they wear, they will slip, like a car does especially on a wet surface.
Think of an airplane when it comes in for a landing and the wheel is not spinning, then when it contacts the ground it has to speed up and turn suddenly causing the tire to "Chirp" or "Squeal" because it is momentarily slipping or skidding until it reaches the speed the plane is moving, that is what happens every time you engage your wheel drive lever on any friction drive machine.


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## Johnny G1

I found that the rubber wheel got old and just about tore it apart after a few hrs, it was on a machine that was run for 15 min and put away for the next 10yrs and was brand new, new rubber wheel and run the way it was suppose too, it was on a ST227 which I used for 1 winter and works like a charm today, still a spare rubber wheel for it, Just my thought's.


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## jaytpilk

ST1100A said:


> An easier way to remember what they are called. The DRIVE disc is the metal plate that actually does the DRIVE of the other part.
> That is called the DRIVEN disc, because it is DRIVEN by the DRIVE disc or plate.
> Different manufacturers call them by different names.
> The rubber tire on the DRIVEN disc is a very common wear item. They can harden up and slip from loss of traction or just plain wear themselves out, like a tire does on an automobile. When they wear, they will slip, like a car does especially on a wet surface.
> Think of an airplane when it comes in for a landing and the wheel is not spinning, then when it contacts the ground it has to speed up and turn suddenly causing the tire to "Chirp" or "Squeal" because it is momentarily slipping or skidding until it reaches the speed the plane is moving, that is what happens every time you engage your wheel drive lever on any friction drive machine.


Thank you. Again, I kinda wish I had a way to "see" what was/is going on under the machine when I engage the DRIVEN rubber wheel to the DRIVE disc plate. When the wheels are up off the ground, man - she flies right along. But, with wheels on the ground ...engaging them does virtually nothing. If I shove the machine forward, it might grab and then start driving. But more often than not, it just sits and does nothing. No bucking, sounds/smell of burning rubber, no skid marks on disc after trying and taking off lower cover. But what's weird is with the machine off, up on it's blower housing, lower cover off so I"m looking in at friction plate and wheel - and when "in gear" and engaged, I can't turn the wheels - they're locked up tight because of the rubber wheel pressing against drive plate. It's impressive. So I don't get why - with that good a connection - why it won't drive reliably.


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## Town

Have you checked the belt drive for the drive plate? The engine pulley closer to the engine is for the wheel drive and it drives a belt that drives the drive plate. The belt is tensioned all the time by an idler pulley that is kept tightened to the belt by a spring. Ensure the belt is not worn out and the idler wheel bearing and its mount (should move freely and not seized) are sound and the tensioner spring snugs the idler pulley to the belt.

If the belt drive is weak then it will slip when load is applied. When the wheels are in the air there is almost no load on the belt.


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## jaytpilk

Town said:


> Have you checked the belt drive for the drive plate? The engine pulley closer to the engine is for the wheel drive and it drives a belt that drives the drive plate. The belt is tensioned all the time by an idler pulley that is kept tightened to the belt by a spring. Ensure the belt is not worn out and the idler wheel bearing and its mount (should move freely and not seized) are sound and the tensioner spring snugs the idler pulley to the belt.
> 
> If the belt drive is weak then it will slip when load is applied. When the wheels are in the air there is almost no load on the belt.


Thank you, good idea. I'll check that next


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## ST1100A

You have to look at the pulley sheaves and the sides of the belt where it grips the pulley sheaves or side grooves of the pulleys. 
The top and bottom of the belt do not grip the pulley, its "V" shaped tapered sides do. Make sure the belt is not worn "Thin" and make sure you have the correct length and width belt on the machine and the pulley grooves are not worn.
The belt and pulley contact surface area is about 100 times or more surface area than the contact surface area of the tire on the friction driven disc.
If that rubber tire becomes hard like a piece of plastic, it will slip like crazy. The rubber should be soft that you could sink your finger nail into.
The rubber should be soft enough to "Flatten out" a little bit when it is pressed against the metal Drive Plate.


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## jaytpilk

ST1100A said:


> You have to look at the pulley sheaves and the sides of the belt where it grips the pulley sheaves or side grooves of the pulleys.
> The top and bottom of the belt do not grip the pulley, its "V" shaped tapered sides do. Make sure the belt is not worn "Thin" and make sure you have the correct length and width belt on the machine and the pulley grooves are not worn.
> The belt and pulley contact surface area is about 100 times or more surface area than the contact surface area of the tire on the friction driven disc.
> If that rubber tire becomes hard like a piece of plastic, it will slip like crazy. The rubber should be soft that you could sink your finger nail into.
> The rubber should be soft enough to "Flatten out" a little bit when it is pressed against the metal Drive Plate.


Thanks ST1100A. I've ordered a new belt, will double check length/width and sheave/pulley surfaces. Rubber wheel is supple and seems in good shape. Thank you for the inputs


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