# Modified oil drain on an Ariens Platinum LCT AX Engine.



## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

My blower is still brand new and I haven't done my first oil change yet, (only have 1-1/2 hours run time), so I'll let it go until next fall. 

But, I got to looking and I see that the 291cc LCT AX engine has the drain terminating on the right side, right next to the tire. Which means the machine must be jacked up and the wheel removed to do a simple oil change. 

So I decided that a modification is in order. What I am looking for is an oil valve and piping (tubing) so as to be able to drain the oil with a simple twist of a level and drain into an empty quart oil container. No mess, done in a few minutes. (And the empty quart oil containers can be had for nothing any place they do oil changes.)

I *think* I've found the exactly what I was looking for. 

The way way I envision it, you remove the oil drain tube, attach one of their drain valves, add a hose adapter and a 12-inch (or longer) section of clear vinyl hose that can run into an empty quart oil container, sitting on the ground next to the snowblower.

Here's the basic valve I have in mind:










Here's the optional straight hose end:










or the optional 90° hose end:










Possibly insert the valve to the engine body, reuse the existing drain pipe and the add the above 90° hose adapter so that it extends to the edge of the frame, pointing down.

They also offer adapters for recessed locations:











I don't yet know for certain as to the size, but I believe the LCT engine uses 12mm x 1.5mm thread. If so that would make the valve model number EZ-109 for $23.95, add a hose end (model H-001, $4 for straight, L-001 for a 90°, $7) and a piece of 3/8-inch clear hose (local hardware) and that should do it. If needed, the adapter model is A-009 and sells for $7.

What do you guys think? I've really been tiring to come up with a fix and I think that this will work perfectly. (And their price for an all-metal, full-way globe valve is very fair). 

The valve has to be absolutely reliable, under all conditions, and these are made for automotive use. Everything appears to be of good quality.

Here's the manufacturer's website: 
Welcome to OilDrainValve.net, authorize online dealer of EZ Oil Drain Valve.


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

First of all, for the cost of a qt of oil, I would change the oil before putting your machine for the summer. Wouldn't chance leaving the contaminates in the engine til fall.

As to the different types of simple opening drains, I always feared these drains getting knocked open and lead to engine failure. It's really not that hard to grab a wrench and vise grips to do a oil change. Taking off the wheels are something I do each spring anyhow to wax the wheels, the side of the machine and put a thin coat of grease on the axle to guard against rust. But the choice is yours.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

One more thing to consider is that a lot of plug ends are magnetized to pick up metal.
These aren't, are they.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

cdestuck said:


> First of all, for the cost of a qt of oil, I would change the oil before putting your machine for the summer. Wouldn't chance leaving the contaminates in the engine til fall.
> 
> As to the different types of simple opening drains, I always feared these drains getting knocked open and lead to engine failure. It's really not that hard to grab a wrench and vise grips to do a oil change. Taking off the wheels are something I do each spring anyhow to wax the wheels, the side of the machine and put a thin coat of grease on the axle to guard against rust. But the choice is yours.


I really don't think one hours use is going to be a problem for oil contamination. Dealer tod me I could do it either way as there wasn't enough time on the engine to worry about. But I'll take your advice & do it sometime this spring, when I make the drain modificatoin. 

As for the drain getting knocked open, is up near the engine, and if you look closely, the valve locks in the closed position. There's a notch that the lever arm falls into and must be lifted out of to open. There's simply no way one could be accidiently "bumped" open. I would be more concerned over longevity, but they are made from high quality materials and I simple can't see it failing before the end-of life of the machine. (Another point to consider is, they are standard on other makes, like Honda for example.)

I found a better example showing the locking notch:










Remember, these are designed for general automobile use. Should one fail the manufacturer could be held liable for the cost of an auto engine, thousands of dollars. 

Anyway, what I'm really looking for is the size of the oil drain pipe and thread spacing. I believe it's 12mm x1.5mm thread or 14 mm x 1.5 mm thread, but I'm just not certain. Do you have any idea what it is?


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> One more thing to consider is that a lot of plug ends are magnetized to pick up metal.
> These aren't, are they.


No, of course not, made of brass. 

But Ed, are you saying that the standard LCT drain plug "is" magnetized? Ariens part number 125704 that sells for less than $3?

This one?









That's quite a surprise, I never realized that. Quite a bargain for $3. I would have expected a nickle-plated steel plug with a magnet insert to sell for considerably more.

Believe I'm still going to go ahead and pursue the mod as I feel it's worth it to me. I'm at the age where it's hard just to get down on my knees, let alone wrestle off a wheel from a 250 lb machine.


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## M1A2 Hahn (Feb 27, 2014)

enigma-2 said:


> No, of course not, made of brass.
> 
> But Ed, are you saying that the standard LCT drain plug "is" magnetized? Ariens part number 125704 that sells for less than $3?
> 
> ...


 
Your valve, or anything else that can take some of the pain out of doing simple tasks, gets my vote. My discs are degenerating, and my doctor says I shouldn't even be working a snowblower. Plus its fun thinking up stuff and putting it together successfully. 
My favorite oil change gizmo is the vacuum method that draws the oil from the fill hole into a container. It was 50 bucks, and it has saved me grief for ten years running on the cars and equipment.


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

Don't bother to change the oil until the fall, it's just going to get contaminated with water from condensation over the summer anyway and need changing in the fall with no hours on it, changing it in the spring is a waste of money and wont help you any.

As far as the drain goes, you can end up in situations where something extra sticking out of the block gets caught on something and rips out a piece of the block. It's not very likely in this case, that valve isn't long and it's in a hard area for a foreign object to get into.

When I did this for a living we just had some sheet metal we cut and bent into trays to deflect the oil into a bucket.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Another option you might want to consider would be to invest in a fluid evacuator or extractor. You can pump out the oil by simply inserting a small tube down the oil dip-stick fill tube and pumping out the old oil. No fussing with jacking up the snowblower and removing wheels. Just pump out the oil into the evacuator tank, replace with fresh oil, then dump (or pump) the old oil from the evacuator tank into your oil recycle container. Best part... NO MESS. I havn't had to buy a bag of Speedy Dry in 4 years. I have the Mityvac-7201 Great tool, especially if you do a lot of automotive work like changing oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, etc. I do all my own small engine and automotive maintenance, so this fluid evacuator has more than paid for itself. I know they also make a fluid extractor dedicated to small engines that cost about $40.00, but I can't speak to the quality or effectiveness of that product. However, the Mityvac is a professional grade tool. There's even a Youtube video by donyboy73 reviewing the Mityvac???


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

enigma-2 said:


> Anyway, what I'm really looking for is the size of the oil drain pipe and thread spacing. I believe it's 12mm x1.5mm thread or 14 mm x 1.5 mm thread, but I'm just not certain. Do you have any idea what it is?





enigma-2 said:


> But Ed, are you saying that the standard LCT drain plug "is" magnetized? Ariens part number 125704 that sells for less than $3?
> This one?
> 
> 
> ...


I just added magnetized plug as something to think about. If it is a concern for some, after you drain the oil I guess you could run a magnet around to see how much metal you are picking up. If you have an excessive amount of metal you will see it anyway.

Wherever you found the above plug you pictured, do they have the measurements your looking for listed with it?

As far as them being held liable for damage incurred from the plug failing, I am sure they have that covered so they are not held accountable.
Read the fine print I bet it is there somewhere.

If it makes life easier for you, I say go for it.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> Wherever you found the above plug you pictured, do they have the measurements your looking for listed with it?


Pulled it from JacksSmallEngines.com. Listed as a 12 mm x 1.5 mm thread. At this point I believe that the drain pipe is 14 mm x 1.5 mm thread.
When I do figure all this out I'll post a pix here. (If I can figure out how to post a picture.) <g>


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

M1A2 Hahn said:


> Your valve, or anything else that can take some of the pain out of doing simple tasks, gets my vote. My discs are degenerating, and my doctor says I shouldn't even be working a snowblower. Plus its fun thinking up stuff and putting it together successfully.
> My favorite oil change gizmo is the vacuum method that draws the oil from the fill hole into a container. It was 50 bucks, and it has saved me grief for ten years running on the cars and equipment.


 just got diagnosed with something simular. Just started therapy, seems to be helping. Also had a heart attach three years and Afib two. They got me all fixed up, but whenever I'm out blowing snow, my wife stands at the door, watching. Makes me feel like a little kid. <sigh>
Freezn posted a picture of an interesting pump. My main concern is I can't see how you can be certain that you get all the old oil out. Guess it's not a big concern, but I still lean toward the valve drain. It's a real pain to get on my knees however. (Fellas, your knees are the first to go. Course if I lost fifty pounds maybe ..........)


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

94EG8 said:


> Don't bother to change the oil until the fall, it's just going to get contaminated with water from condensation over the summer anyway and need changing in the fall with no hours on it, changing it in the spring is a waste of money and wont help you any.


Come to think of it, my dealer told me something simular to that. So you just roll your SB over to a corner of the garage and leave it sit all summer; changing the oil in the fall before first use?

Cdestuck feels it's better to change in the spring to avoid leaving the "contaminates in the engine til fall." (I assume he was referring to acids forming from blow-by).

I checked the Ariens engine manual that came with the blower, it states for use less than 40 hr / year to change the oil after the first month and every 6 months thereafter. (Over 40 hr. / year change the oil every 40 hrs.


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

enigma-2 said:


> Come to think of it, my dealer told me something simular to that. So you just roll your SB over to a corner of the garage and leave it sit all summer; changing the oil in the fall before first use?


That's what you should do, typically I only change my oil every few years (do as I say, not as I do) 



enigma-2 said:


> Cdestuck feels it's better to change in the spring to avoid leaving the "contaminates in the engine til fall." (I assume he was referring to acids forming from blow-by).


Quite frankly I just wouldn't worry about it sitting over the summer. The best advice I have is after the first 20 - 25hrs start running synthetic, you need conventional oil for the break in but after that synthetic is much better. I pulled apart a Kohler Command that was on a Woodmizer last summer to replace a cam. The guy said he ran it 8hrs a day most days for 12 or 13 years, there would be at least 20,000hrs on it. He always ran synthetic in it and it looked like new inside. Typically everything will be black, even with proper oil changes using conventional oil, it seriously looked like it had less than 20hrs on it.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

Below is a similar oil drain valve. I've heard about this one years ago.

FUMOTO ENGINEERING


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'd worry too much about knocking it open and it seems more expensive that it's worth but that's just me. I'll go through the trouble of measuring and picking up a pipe or two at the box store and make the drain terminate someplace convenient the next time.

That and for some I'll cut up an aluminum can to make a drain/deflector or cut open a plastic quart oil bottle as it fits well on top of a tire. On the riders the oil filters are in places nothing helps and you have to be creative.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Freezn said:


> Another option you might want to consider would be to invest in a fluid evacuator or extractor. You can pump out the oil by simply inserting a small tube down the oil dip-stick fill tube and pumping out the old oil. No fussing with jacking up the snowblower and removing wheels. Just pump out the oil into the evacuator tank, replace with fresh oil, then dump (or pump) the old oil from the evacuator tank into your oil recycle container. Best part... NO MESS. I haven't had to buy a bag of Speedy Dry in 4 years. I have the Mityvac-7201 Great tool, especially if you do a lot of automotive work like changing oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, etc. I do all my own small engine and automotive maintenance, so this fluid evacuator has more than paid for itself. I know they also make a fluid extractor dedicated to small engines that cost about $40.00, but I can't speak to the quality or effectiveness of that product. However, the Mityvac is a professional grade tool. There's even a Youtube video by donyboy73 reviewing the Mityvac???
> 
> TOOL REVIEW - Mityvac MV7201 Fluid Evacuator Pump - YouTube
> 
> Amazon.com: Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus: Automotive


Hey thanks for that Freezn. I rally trust donyboy73 and found his videos to be very informative (had not seen this one however.) Your right, 7201 is very impressive. Little expensive, but looks like a would probably outlive me. 

I'm somewhat split over using one, on one hand you just drop the tube down the fill tube and that's that. On the other, you still have the need to empty the 7201 and somehow keep it (reasonably) clean (old oil has a tendency to turn into pure gunk, I learned this with a oil drain pan that captured the oil and held until I was able discard it. You never really get rid of all of it). 

But I will keep it in mind. Thanks again.
Dennis


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I don't have magnetized plugs on any of my machines. But they all have steel/iron plugs for the drain. 

So I just stick magnets on the plugs themselves.


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## M1A2 Hahn (Feb 27, 2014)

enigma-2 said:


> just got diagnosed with something simular. Just started therapy, seems to be helping. Also had a heart attach three years and Afib two. They got me all fixed up, but whenever I'm out blowing snow, my wife stands at the door, watching. Makes me feel like a little kid. <sigh>
> Freezn posted a picture of an interesting pump. My main concern is I can't see how you can be certain that you get all the old oil out. Guess it's not a big concern, but I still lean toward the valve drain. It's a real pain to get on my knees however. (Fellas, your knees are the first to go. Course if I lost fifty pounds maybe ..........)


The pump probably doesn't get every drop like the drain plug/valve combo, but I don't think much about it because I can hardly measure the difference. The suction pump is so easy on my back, convenient and clean that I'm a convert. Mine's called a Pela 6000 . Its so simple to use even I can do it. 
I think you should consider it because it'll keep you off your knees and also not have to bend with your back as much. 
Tony


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

So it sounds like lack of space is the issue.

There is Form-A-Funnel which is a flexible/formable rubbery plastic panel (formafunnel.com) but at NAPA it was over 20 bucks. 

A simple fix is to use the empty plastic oil bottle. Take a utility knife and cut out one of the wider sides of the bottle leaving the neck intact. Depending on the location and amount of clearance, you may or may not want to cut off the bottom of the bottle. This will leave you with a wide but shallow rectangular funnel that is low profile to slide into a tight space but with a good spout to collect the used oil. 

*If you have a real tight space, instead of cutting out the wide side, cut out one of the narrow sides of the bottle. You can always cut it down to reduce the remaining "height" of your funnel. This gives you a narrow width funnel and you can vary the height. *

It's hard to beat the price.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

JRHAWK9 said:


> Below is a similar oil drain valve. I've heard about this one years ago.
> 
> FUMOTO ENGINEERING


That looks like a good quality valve as well, JR. But I couldn't find a price for it. During my search, I also seen a could of others (simular) but ended up going back to the EZ drain valve. (Must have been the sexy nickel plating ...)<g>


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Thought I'd follow up on this. Put a quick drain valve on my Ariens this summer and as expected, it was easy (took five minutes) and it does make oil changes a lot easier and cleaner. No screwing around, just stick an empty oil bottle onto the end of the plastic hose, flip the lever open and got get a cup of coffee. In a few the engine's drained, close the valve and poured in new oil. 
Had to contact the engine manufacturer in China to get the right size (went through Ariens engineering to do this - very, very helpful people).
To change over to a dran valve, tip blower into the service position (no need to drain the oil), unscrew the old pipe, screw in the new valve, push on plastic hose, pop a cap into the end and lower back into run position. No oil lost.


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## Cardo111 (Feb 16, 2015)

enigma-2 said:


> Thought I'd follow up on this. Put a quick drain valve on my Ariens this summer and as expected, it was easy (took five minutes) and it does make oil changes a lot easier and cleaner. No screwing around, just stick an empty oil bottle onto the end of the plastic hose, flip the lever open and got get a cup of coffee. In a few the engine's drained, close the valve and poured in new oil.
> Had to contact the engine manufacturer in China to get the right size (went through Ariens engineering to do this - very, very helpful people).
> To change over to a dran valve, tip blower into the service position (no need to drain the oil), unscrew the old pipe, screw in the new valve, push on plastic hose, pop a cap into the end and lower back into run position. No oil lost.


What size did you end up going with, I have the same issue with my LCT GEN II AX414 engine and would like to get one of these drains with the elbow, LCT's U.S. Tech support was unable to help me on this?


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## Mac (Jan 26, 2015)

Take out the old drain plug and go to the hardware store, find the nut that fits on it and thats your size. Some of the better hardware stores have a sizing gauge that tells you the size. Looks like this or something similar....https://www.google.ca/search?q=bolt...ww.ebay.com%2Fbhp%2Fbolt-thread-gauge;750;332


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## Cardo111 (Feb 16, 2015)

Mac said:


> Take out the old drain plug and go to the hardware store, find the nut that fits on it and thats your size. Some of the better hardware stores have a sizing gauge that tells you the size. Looks like this or something similar....https://www.google.ca/search?q=bolt...ww.ebay.com%2Fbhp%2Fbolt-thread-gauge;750;332


 I was hoping to have the quick drain prior to the first oil change so I can install it after I changed the oil, without having to mess with the tire or holding a small funnel while it drains ever again.

I appreciate your advice and that would certainly be a good way to know the size that I will need. However I am still surprised that Ariens does not provide a quick drain with a tube when they provide customers with an engine that has the side oil drain tube. My lawn tractor came with the proper drain and hose to avoid this inconvenience. If you take the plug off the way Ariens sells the unit the oil will be all over the RT side tire and axle, doesn't make sense for such a crucial maintenance procedure.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Cardo111 said:


> What size did you end up going with, I have the same issue with my LCT GEN II AX414 engine and would like to get one of these drains with the elbow, LCT's U.S. Tech support was unable to help me on this?


For my AX291, it was 12 mm x 1.5 mm thread pitch. I suspect (but cannot confirm) that all of the larger engines are also the same.


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## Cardo111 (Feb 16, 2015)

enigma-2 said:


> For my AX291, it was 12 mm x 1.5 mm thread pitch. I suspect (but cannot confirm) that all of the larger engines are also the same.


Thanks Enigma! Did you also order the elbow?


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

I used the straight piece, as pictured in the thread starter.


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## johnny2154 (Feb 19, 2015)

When I put that qwick valve on, do I take off the long part or put it on that?


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Sorry for not responding sooner, lost track of the thread. You remove the long tube. The valve mounts directly to the engine. Screw in the straight coupling and attach the vinyl hose.


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## johnny2154 (Feb 19, 2015)

enigma-2 said:


> Sorry for not responding sooner, lost track of the thread. You remove the long tube. The valve mounts directly to the engine. Screw in the straight coupling and attach the vinyl hose.


Thanks enigma-2


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## Dave C (Jan 26, 2015)

enigma-2 said:


> Sorry for not responding sooner, lost track of the thread. You remove the long tube. The valve mounts directly to the engine. Screw in the straight coupling and attach the vinyl hose.


I just installed one on my 28+ with the AX291 motor, and I'm not real happy with the installation. The valve is too big in diameter to fit into the recess on the engine block where the hex standoff was. I had to reuse the aluminum crush washer that goes behind the standoff to space the valve away from the block a bit. I'm concerned that the seal between the washer and block may not be tight enough. The standoff was TIGHT (Loctited) and the instructions that came with the valve say not to over tighten it.

Not sure I want to run it this way. I'd like something more positive to seal between the valve and block.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Dave C said:


> I just installed one on my 28+ with the AX291 motor, and I'm not real happy with the installation. The valve is too big in diameter to fit into the recess on the engine block where the hex standoff was. I had to reuse the aluminum crush washer that goes behind the standoff to space the valve away from the block a bit. I'm concerned that the seal between the washer and block may not be tight enough. The standoff was TIGHT (Loctited) and the instructions that came with the valve say not to over tighten it.
> 
> Not sure I want to run it this way. I'd like something more positive to seal between the valve and block.


It was also a fairly rough fit on mine (same engine), but it worked and hasn't leaked at all this winter. (Come to think of it, I believe I used the original washer as well). 

If you are still nervous, you could always install the adapter.
http://www.oildrainvalve.net/

Either the #A-103 (12mm 1-1/4"), #A-107 (12mm 1-3/4") or the #A-109 (12mm 1-1/2") adapter should have a smaller footprint, allowing a better seal at the base. 

I actually thought of going with the adaptor originally, but thought I would first try the fit without it. Inasmuch as it worked, and doesn't leaked ... (shrug).

If you do go this route, let me know. I would be curious to know if there's any improvement.

Dennis


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## Dave C (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks for the feedback, Dennis. If you look at the pics of the adapters, it appears that the base is about the same diameter as the valve - I dunno that it would fit into the recess any better. I sent them an email about that.

I'm thinking that a couple of fiber washers and RTV could space the valve away from the block enough to get a good seal.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Judging from this image, it looks like it has a smaller base.


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## enigma-2 (Feb 11, 2014)

Dave C said:


> Thanks for the feedback, Dennis. If you look at the pics of the adapters, it appears that the base is about the same diameter as the valve - I dunno that it would fit into the recess any better. I sent them an email about that.
> 
> I'm thinking that a couple of fiber washers and RTV could space the valve away from the block enough to get a good seal.


Dave, I just went out and looked at my installation I'm going to agree with your idea. While an adapter might have a smaller base diameter, I'm afraid it may also force the valve to stick out too far. (Getting too close to the wheel. Would need an angle adapter to drain to the rear of the machine).

I looked closely and don't have any leaks, although my valve is turned to about the 2:30 position; and I wasn't completely happy with that setup. It's tight and doesn't leak, but it's the aesthetics that concern me. Perhaps an extra washer or two may allow the valve to sit at the 12-0-clock position better.

Next time I'm at the hardware, think I'll pick up a couple of fiber washers and try them.


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