# Older HS1132 maintenance



## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

Hello everyone,

I just bought a used 1999 Honda HS1132 for 700$ from a friend's father. It starts in 1-2 pulls and absolutely no smoke when running.

I know he changed the oil every year and last year he sent it to honda to change the skids and a carb tune up.

I ordered some touch up paint for the chute and the auger housing, it was hard to find, but thanks to this forum I found some!

My question is, what can I do maintenance-wise to ensure that this machine last me another 10 years?

Thanks


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

Some pictures

Pic 1

Pic 2


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Keep the oil changed, belts if it has any, lubed, don't leave gas in the tank and carb. simonize it from time to time and it should be good to go for another 10 years. anyhoo ALOHA from the Paradise City.:smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027:*


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

:welcome: Congrats on your blower purchase. Nice to buy from someone that can give you some history on it too. First thing I would do is pull the shear pins on the augers and make sure the augers will rotate free on the stub. Check the manual for proper lubricant level in the auger gear box. If it were mine I'd pull the bucket, remove the augers and impeller, sand blast the whole thing and prime and repaint all. That front end of those machines is crazy expensive to replace. Being summer, you've got time, good temps for paint and can take comfort knowing come snow time everything is spot on in front. Lots of members here with good knowledge on those blowers. Wish you good luck with it.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Keep gear oil in the gear box, have a looksee at the air filter from time to time. see if the augers are not welded to the shaft. pull them off and lube them if you can. maybe keep a rolling stock of those BLOODY sheer pins on hand.*


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

looks like a real good find for $700. around here they go for $1800-2800

I have a 1132 also. First thing I did was buy the manual for it on Amazon from Honda Power Equipment for $39.95 and it is money well spent.

It has all the info you need to keep that thing running for 50 years or longer. ( not kidding )
Specifications, tune up, maintenance, and trouble-shooting section. everything you need to know.

I really think this manual is worth it's weight in gold. It's not the owners pamphlet that is only about 30 pages long. this one is about 80 pages and you can put it in a 3 ring binder for safe keeping.

good luck. this forum is great and the guys here have helped me beaucoup times with my Hondas.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

Thanks for all the feedback guys!

A few questions, how do I check the oil level in the gearbox?

What primer do you recommend?

I know how to remove the auger, but how do I remove the blower?

Thanks!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *Keep the oil changed, belts if it has any, lubed, don't leave gas in the tank and carb. simonize it from time to time and it should be good to go for another 10 years. anyhoo ALOHA from the Paradise City.:smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027:*


it should be good to go for 40-50 years at least if properly maintained.

fify


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

jbutch said:


> Thanks for all the feedback guys!
> 
> A few questions, how do I check the oil level in the gearbox?
> 
> ...


there is a bolt that keeps the blower on, I believe. I had to take the bucket off to change the the belt and the bearing.

walmart sells a spray paint that is a perfect match for Honda and it is only $1.16 a can at their on line website. I bought 10 cans and redid my bucket and it was perfect. It's Home Shades brand and called acobado brillante.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

Allright, it seems that I really need a service manual. However the cheapest one I can find in canada is 80$... Anyone knows where to find a cheaper one?

Thanks


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

If the HS1132 that you have is the same as a US sold HS1132 you can find the manuals here.... (I do not know how shipping would work)

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-HS1132-blower-Service-Repair/dp/B06WLKRLRP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497789631&sr=8-1&keywords=hs1132+service+manual

Honda HS624 HS724 HS828 HS928 HS1132 Snow blower Service Repair Shop Manual | eBay

:blowerhug:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

The one think that I would be checking on a 99 model (besides what was suggested prior) is the side transmission, overtime the outer seal gets damaged and grease leaks out, grease gets hardened/ dries out, or water gets inside. Also the is a pin that if it broke the snowblower would not move forward or back.

Check the following thread

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...servicing-right-hydrostatic-transmission.html


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> The one think that I would be checking on a 99 model (besides what was suggested prior) is the side transmission, overtime the outer seal gets damaged and grease leaks out, grease gets hardened/ dries out, or water gets inside. Also the is a pin that if it broke the snowblower would not move forward or back.
> 
> 
> Check the following thread
> ...


I read about that pin, anything I can do to prevent that?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

I'd make sure that there is enough grease inside the side gearbox and try to avoid "hard" shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa.....


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> I'd make sure that there is enough grease inside the side gearbox and try to avoid "hard" shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa.....



I will try to do that this summer, seems like a good little project.

Another question, I asked the original owner if the belts were replaced at any time and he said no. Is it worth it to replace the belts even if they function well?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

The length of time an unknown, previously owned belt will last is a guess at best. There does seem to be a direct relationship between age and how far away from the garage you are when they fail:grin:
In my experience, having replacement belts hanging on the hook in the garage makes the old belts last much longer:wink2:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Honda belts are not too expensive. I'd replace them both for piece of mind (replace them with genuine Honda belts). Keep the old ones as a back up. Honda belts if properly adjusted and depending on the snowblower amount of use and storage conditions can last several years.....


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

jtclays said:


> The length of time an unknown, previously owned belt will last is a guess at best. There does seem to be a direct relationship between age and how far away from the garage you are when they fail:grin:
> In my experience, having replacement belts hanging on the hook in the garage makes the old belts last much longer:wink2:





YSHSfan said:


> Honda belts are not too expensive. I'd replace them both for piece of mind (replace them with genuine Honda belts). Keep the old ones as a back up. Honda belts if properly adjusted and depending on the snowblower amount of use and storage conditions can last several years.....



Since I want to repaint the auger housing, I will most likely remove the belt cover at the same time. I just need to find a cheap option for a service manual. Since I am in Canada, the shipping is almost as much as the manual from the US...:sad2:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

jbutch said:


> Since I want to repaint the auger housing, I will most likely remove the belt cover at the same time. I just need to find a cheap option for a service manual. Since I am in Canada, the shipping is almost as much as the manual from the US...:sad2:


From eBay and Amazon...?


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## sr71 (Mar 25, 2013)

Jbutch... also have an older 1132....she and I have an agreement - I treat her well and she starts when i pull the cord. One thing NOT to do is change her tranny fluid (not necessary - and a huge job). 

Every year I....... 
- adjust the scraper / shoes
- adjust track tension
- change the oil
- spray lubricant on everything that moves


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

jbutch said:


> Since I want to repaint the auger housing, I will most likely remove the belt cover at the same time. I just need to find a cheap option for a service manual. Since I am in Canada, the shipping is almost as much as the manual from the US...:sad2:


you can get a spray paint from wal-mart for $1.32 a can that is almost an exact match.it is called HomeShades brand and the color is acobado brillante.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > Since I want to repaint the auger housing, I will most likely remove the belt cover at the same time. I just need to find a cheap option for a service manual. Since I am in Canada, the shipping is almost as much as the manual from the US...
> ...


Yeah, it is unavailable in Canada, so I'll have to order it eventually throught the states.



sr71 said:


> Jbutch... also have an older 1132....she and I have an agreement - I treat her well and she starts when i pull the cord. One thing NOT to do is change her tranny fluid (not necessary - and a huge job).
> 
> Every year I.......
> - adjust the scraper / shoes
> ...


Good tips!

For the hydrostatic, even if the oil is not clear anymore?





orangputeh said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > Since I want to repaint the auger housing, I will most likely remove the belt cover at the same time. I just need to find a cheap option for a service manual. Since I am in Canada, the shipping is almost as much as the manual from the US...
> ...


Not sure if available in Canada but I'll check


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## sr71 (Mar 25, 2013)

never for the hydrostatic oil


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

Didn't want to start a new thread, but I have a question about the hydrostatic transmission.

While operating the snowblower can I change the speed while keeping the drive clutch pressed down? Will it harm anything? This is my first hydro trans


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

jbutch said:


> Didn't want to start a new thread, but I have a question about the hydrostatic transmission.
> 
> While operating the snowblower can I change the speed while keeping the drive clutch pressed down? Will it harm anything? This is my first hydro trans


To my knowledge the transmission is designed to work that way, you can keep the drive belt tensioner lever down and adjust speeds with the lever (just don't be harsh on shifting it from forward to reverse and back).


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > Didn't want to start a new thread, but I have a question about the hydrostatic transmission.
> ...


What a quick reply!

So you don't have to let go of the lever to go from forward to reverse (provided that I do it gradually) and vice versa? 

Thanks


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

jbutch said:


> What a quick reply!
> 
> So you don't have to let go of the lever to go from forward to reverse (provided that I do it gradually) and vice versa?
> 
> Thanks


That is correct. 
It's one of the advantages of a hydrostatic transmission. 
Ideally you start on "neutral", engage the lever and adjust your speed and direction with the lever as needed


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > What a quick reply!
> ...


I feel like I won't be missing my crappy Yardworks this winter.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

jbutch said:


> I feel like I won't be missing my crappy Yardworks this winter.


Once you use a hydrostatic transmission snowblower you don't want to go back to a friction dics unit.
Although I still use various older Yamaha snowblowers with a friction disc transmission (there was no option for hydrostatic back then), I'd chose a hydro unit over a friction wheel any time..... (but it is just my preference :wink2
To me the same applies to track units, once you use a track unit and see the extra amount of traction that they have you don't want to go back to wheels (again this is just my preference :wink2.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Here is a link to the HS1132 owners manual...

http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/manuals/00x31v416010.pdf


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > I feel like I won't be missing my crappy Yardworks this winter.
> ...





YSHSfan said:


> Here is a link to the HS1132 owners manual...
> 
> http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/manuals/00x31v416010.pdf


Thanks for all your help.


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

jbutch said:


> My question is, what can I do maintenance-wise to ensure that this machine last me another 10 years?
> 
> Thanks


Scheduled service intervals are documented in the owner's manual; download a free copy at this link:

Honda Snow Blowers - All- Owners Manuals

You'll need the serial number off the back of the machine to be sure and get the correct documents. 

For more involved service and/or repairs, a paper shop manual is available from Honda via Amazon or eBay (free shipping):

eBay: 




Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Honda-HS1132-blower-Service-Repair/dp/B06WLKRLRP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500304286&sr=8-1&keywords=honda+hs1132+shop+manual

Finally, if you would send me a private message with the full serial number, your name and address, and I will update the registration database to show you as the new owner. Honda asks for this in the unlikely event there is ever a product safety recall and needs to contact you.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > My question is, what can I do maintenance-wise to ensure that this machine last me another 10 years?
> ...


I have a service manual on the way 

I am in Canada, can you update the registration anyway?


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

jbutch said:


> I have a service manual on the way
> 
> I am in Canada, can you update the registration anyway?


Is your machine a Canadian or USA spec model? USA models have safety labels in English only, while Canadian model are in English and French.

On the serial number / model name sticker on the rear of the machine, a USA model name will end with an A, such as HS1132TA, while a Canadian model will end with a C, like HS1132TC

I can only update registrations for USA spec models. 
*
Honda Canada* can update their records if you have a Canadian-spec model:

Honda Customer Relations
180 Honda Blvd.
Markham, ON
L6C 0H9

Toll Free: 1-888-9-HONDA-9 (1-888-946-6329)
Hours: 8:00 am to 7:30 pm Mon to Fri (EST)

Note the USA models vary somewhat from Canadian models, but the shop manual generally covers both.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > I have a service manual on the way
> ...


All the labels are bilingual and refers to Canada, so I guess I have an HS1132TC.

Another question, would it be worth it to change the oil in the auger gearbox?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

jbutch said:


> Another question, would it be worth it to change the oil in the auger gearbox?


Yes, it sure is.... 80w90 gear oil would do it. You need about .2 liters


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > Another question, would it be worth it to change the oil in the auger gearbox?
> ...


Is it possible to overfill?

Service manual says 160ml, it seems a bit precise.

Also, I wanted to put some synthetic in there but all synthetics are 75w-90, will that work as well?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

jbutch said:


> Is it possible to overfill?


Don't think so but I'm not so sure (better a bit extra than not enough).



jbutch said:


> Service manual says 160ml, it seems a bit precise.


If I remember right, the 160ml brings the fluid right to the base of the drain/fill plug. I'll check my manual tonight to see if there are any hints. 
What you can do is check the level before you drain it, then measure the amount that came out to have a rough idea (assuming the level is good). 



jbutch said:


> Also, I wanted to put some synthetic in there but all synthetics are 75w-90, will that work as well?


It'll be fine.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> jbutch said:
> 
> 
> > Is it possible to overfill?
> ...


I didn't see anything in the service manual and the drain/fill plug is pretty small to look the level in there.

Best option I can think of would be some kind of big syringe to measure the oil and shoot it in the hole, does that even exist?









By the way, just want to say thanks, I really appreciate the help of the community here


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

Finally got a chance to disassemble the auger. It probably was never done as the left auger was rusted a bit on the shaft, with a bit of seafoam deep creep and elbow grease, I got it off. I'm gonna paint the augers and when I'll re assemble, I'll put some Mobil 1 grease between the auger and the shaft.

I also changed the auger gear box oil, it was pretty dark in color and had some metal shaving in it. Replaced it with some Castrol Syntec 75w-90 which looked much better in color!

Also changed the oil with some Quaker State ultimate durability 5w-30. The old oil wasn't looking that bad, but it had a smell that I can only describe as alcohol does it mean anything?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

It is great that you are making progress.
Clean the corrosion on the shafts with some emery cloth.
When reassembling it use the copper type anti-seize(I've read that it is the best for this application).
If I had to repaint the augers, impeller (and seems like the auger housing as well) as long as budget allows, I'd chose to get them sandblasted and powder coated (I've gotten a few Yamahas and a Honda done and they look beautiful). I can't speak for durability since they were done last year but as far as I've read it is supposed to stand pretty good.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> It is great that you are making progress.
> Clean the corrosion on the shafts with some emery cloth.
> When reassembling it use the copper type anti-seize(I've read that it is the best for this application).
> If I had to repaint the augers, impeller (and seems like the auger housing as well) as long as budget allows, I'd chose to get them sandblasted and powder coated (I've gotten a few Yamahas and a Honda done and they look beautiful). I can't speak for durability since they were done last year but as far as I've read it is supposed to stand pretty good.


No sand blasting this time, I already bought some color match spray paint along with some primer. If this doesnt hold up, maybe I'll go the powder coating route.

Another few questions:

When I changed the oil of the engine, I followed what it says in the manual, it says to put the machine in position 3 (high position) to change the oil. However the engine isnt completely parallel with the ground in this position. I fear I did not put enough oil since it was not completely level.

Also, is it normal that I can move back and forth the shaft from the impeller of the auger gearbox I removed? I can move it maybe 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

jbutch said:


> No sand blasting this time, I already bought some color match spray paint along with some primer. If this doesnt hold up, maybe I'll go the powder coating route.


Sounds like a good plan

Another few questions:



jbutch said:


> When I changed the oil of the engine, I followed what it says in the manual, it says to put the machine in position 3 (high position) to change the oil. However the engine isnt completely parallel with the ground in this position. I fear I did not put enough oil since it was not completely level.


I always place the engine parallel with the ground when I fill the oil to the engine. For draining I try to angle it towards the side that has the drain plug.



jbutch said:


> Also, is it normal that I can move back and forth the shaft from the impeller of the auger gearbox I removed? I can move it maybe 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch.


All my Honda and Yamaha blowers have a decent end play, I would think that it is normal


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

Thanks again YSHSfan!

Small update on the project, I painted the augers and impeller with DOM 16, it is very similar to POR 15 but easier to find in Canada. It is a rock solid paint after it cures. See pics for before and after.

Also, I'm glad I took the machine apart as I found out that the drive belt is hanging by a thread.

Next will be the auger housing getting repainted.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

Quick update, I just wanted to post a few pictures of the finished project.

Repainted augers, auger housing and chute.

New scraper, skids and bearing.

Transmission serviced.

This thing is ready for some snow!

EDIT: Can't seem to attach images to my post, anyway here's the imgur album: https://imgur.com/a/2FDO5


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Looks great....!

Here are the pics (if they can be seen by others)


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> Looks great....!
> 
> Here are the pics (if they can be seen by others)


Thanks!

I kept trying to upload them but they just disappeared everytime..


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

wow!

looks great. almost brand new. I redid mine as was going to keep it. made it look like yours. a guy came by and offered me a price I could not refuse.

so mine is gone but i did buy a couple 928's to stay busy rebuilding them.

great thread. thanks for posting all this.


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## jbutch (Jun 13, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> wow!
> 
> looks great. almost brand new. I redid mine as was going to keep it. made it look like yours. a guy came by and offered me a price I could not refuse.
> 
> ...


Thanks!

Its always fun to see final pictures in a thread, so I figured I'd give an update.

I think it's the first time ever I'm eager to see snow!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

here was my 1132 when i was done with it.

had it out in driveway , polishing it up when a guy drove slowly by and stopped . asked me if I was selling and I said no. then he said "well, if you were selling , what would you sell it for?"

so i threw out a "don't wanna sell price " like they mention on "American Pickers" , and the guy said well let me go to the bank and get the cash . ( he wanted to give me a check )

about half hour later he came back with the cash. I asked him if he was sure as the price was way above market value, and he said yes.


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