# Any Tips on Removing Friction Disk on HS80?



## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

anyone here done this?

tricks of the trade?

honda hs80. probably same with the 50-55-70


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Honda's shop manual says:

(1) Remove the engine, auger housing, wheel (or track), V-belt, handle, and bottom cover.

(2) Pull out the 8mm lock pin and clutch arm pin, and remove the shift lever cable.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i have the shop manual.

don't understand why you have to remove engine ( no big deal ) or the bucket to do this. that is why I asked if anyone here has done this. there must be an easier way.

has anyone done this?


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## Iceni (Aug 4, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> i have the shop manual.
> 
> don't understand why you have to remove engine ( no big deal ) or the bucket to do this. that is why I asked if anyone here has done this. there must be an easier way.
> 
> has anyone done this?


I've done it, but I don't remember the specifics unfortunately. I can say with absolute certainty that you don't need to remove the engine. Speaking generally these things go: Place blower in service position - remove plate - may be easier if you take wheels/tracks off - loosen the disk shaft and maybe a shaft that is in the way. Generally its easy once you start.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Iceni said:


> I've done it, but I don't remember the specifics unfortunately. I can say with absolute certainty that you don't need to remove the engine. Speaking generally these things go: Place blower in service position - remove plate - may be easier if you take wheels/tracks off - loosen the disk shaft and maybe a shaft that is in the way. Generally its easy once you start.


i think it would be easier to do with the bucket attached so you could put the machine on it's nose. I understand taking the bottom plate off and the track on the right side ( looking from bottom ) right?

I was hoping to get some advice from someone who has done it instead of following the shop manual so I don't over do it or do it in the wrong way and make things worse.

Thank You.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> i think it would be easier to do with the bucket attached so you could put the machine on it's nose. I understand taking the bottom plate off and the track on the right side ( looking from bottom ) right?
> 
> I was hoping to get some advice from someone who has done it instead of following the shop manual so I don't over do it or do it in the wrong way and make things worse.
> 
> Thank You.


Placing a snowblower on service position generally means ‘placing the unit on its nose’ (therefore the previous comment is implying that you don’t remove the auger housing).
I see absolutely no reason to remove the auger housing or the engine. Good luck, keep us posted.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

YSHSfan said:


> Placing a snowblower on service position generally means ‘placing the unit on its nose’ (therefore the previous comment is implying that you don’t remove the auger housing).
> I see absolutely no reason to remove the auger housing or the engine. Good luck, keep us posted.


Thank goodness i have an old donor machine to take a good disk from and perhaps butcher the job . Boats has them for 40 bucks. I'm just repairing an old HS80 where the rubber cam halfway off a friction disk .

The machine is in pretty good condition. I just want to repair it for a back up.


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## ga4brenner (Nov 5, 2017)

I replaced the disc last Dec on an HS55. No engine removal needed, just tilt forward and support by jack stands/other, remove 6 bolts to release lower cover.



This turned out to be relatively easy. Moved both circlips inwards to get some maneuvering room, removed the right side wheel, removed rubber cap seal from left end of shaft and used the flat end of a finishing nail punch to knock the spline shaft out of the roller bearing. For reinstall, used a flat head screw driver on the gear end of the shaft to lightly drive the shaft back into the roller bearing.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

ga4brenner said:


> I replaced the disc last Dec on an HS55. No engine removal needed, just tilt forward and support by jack stands/other, remove 6 bolts to release lower cover.
> 
> 
> 
> This turned out to be relatively easy. Moved both circlips inwards to get some maneuvering room, removed the right side wheel, removed rubber cap seal from left end of shaft and used the flat end of a finishing nail punch to knock the spline shaft out of the roller bearing. For reinstall, used a flat head screw driver on the gear end of the shaft to lightly drive the shaft back into the roller bearing.


thank you. i'm sure this would work on the 80 as it's almost the same set up.


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## ga4brenner (Nov 5, 2017)

You probably know, but I forgot to mention there is a bolt to remove from the right end of the shaft before punching it.


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## aitch (Dec 2, 2019)

ga4brenner said:


> You probably know, but I forgot to mention there is a bolt to remove from the right end of the shaft before punching it.


Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I came across this while surfing google looking for a "how to". I can confirm that ga4brenner's method works exactly like he described above. It saved me a lot of time guessing since i don't have a shop manual. This is on a Honda HS70. Just wanted to say thanks to all that posted in this thread and wanted to leave a comment in case anyone else comes across this same scenario.


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## amelanso (12 mo ago)

I just replaced friction wheel on an HS55 - you don't need to remove the tracks or undo any of the gear mechanism etc. There are service holes to access the splined shaft on the sides of the machine - you just have to set the height to lowest and everything will line up. Remove grease cap on left side (putty knife or such will do to get the edge popped but careful not to tear). Then you can unscrew the friction disk from the roller disk (3 bolts hold the larger wheel you want to replace onto a smaller disk). When you undo the bolts to remove the wheel, the shaft will want to turn so I just clamped a vice grip on the splined shaft all the way to the right so the shaft could not move while removing the bolts. There is also a snap ring on the left side that you will want to move over a few inches to the rt (snap ring pliers useful for this). Then you remove the bolt in the end of the rt side of splined shaft via the service hole (impact drill & 12mm ratchet). Then you can slide the splined shaft by hand to the left by 2 inches that leaves a gap to pop off the bad wheel and put on the new wheel. Then redo all the steps in reverse and you are good to go - 30-60min max from start to finish. Everyone says to put the machine on its nose (service position) but given you don't need to remove the tracks/wheels, I just propped it up with cinder blocks under the back of tracks to have better visual and access... This job was much easier than I anticipated and can be done by pretty well anyone (no shop manual or diagrams needed)...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

amelanso said:


> I just replaced friction wheel on an HS55 - you don't need to remove the tracks or undo any of the gear mechanism etc. There are service holes to access the splined shaft on the sides of the machine - you just have to set the height to lowest and everything will line up. Remove grease cap on left side (putty knife or such will do to get the edge popped but careful not to tear). Then you can unscrew the friction disk from the roller disk (3 bolts hold the larger wheel you want to replace onto a smaller disk). When you undo the bolts to remove the wheel, the shaft will want to turn so I just clamped a vice grip on the splined shaft all the way to the right so the shaft could not move while removing the bolts. There is also a snap ring on the left side that you will want to move over a few inches to the rt (snap ring pliers useful for this). Then you remove the bolt in the end of the rt side of splined shaft via the service hole (impact drill & 12mm ratchet). Then you can slide the splined shaft by hand to the left by 2 inches that leaves a gap to pop off the bad wheel and put on the new wheel. Then redo all the steps in reverse and you are good to go - 30-60min max from start to finish. Everyone says to put the machine on its nose (service position) but given you don't need to remove the tracks/wheels, I just propped it up with cinder blocks under the back of tracks to have better visual and access... This job was much easier than I anticipated and can be done by pretty well anyone (no shop manual or diagrams needed)...


great write up. a lot of parts on the old 50-55-70 and 80 are NLA but the friction disk is.....thank goodness.


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## PrairieBoy (12 mo ago)

How did this go after all ? I’m going to do the same operation on my HS80 tomorrow. Anything else to add to what amelanso said? It sounds straight forward and easy, which would be a first for me 🙄😁


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

PrairieBoy said:


> How did this go after all ? I’m going to do the same operation on my HS80 tomorrow. Anything else to add to what amelanso said? It sounds straight forward and easy, which would be a first for me 🙄😁


Can you take pics and have a step by step?


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## amelanso (12 mo ago)

PrairieBoy said:


> How did this go after all ? I’m going to do the same operation on my HS80 tomorrow. Anything else to add to what amelanso said? It sounds straight forward and easy, which would be a first for me 🙄😁


I wrote steps up after spending quite some time reading on the forums to see what others had to say then doing myself. Some recommended doing more work than is required (removing tracks, disconnect drive gear linkage etc). Once you open up the bottom and look carefully you will see that it is very ez with minimal parts to remove etc ( only what is needed to slide the shaft over for 2 inch gap). Careful not to get any grease on the friction wheel rubber or drive plate but this job is really as ez as it gets...


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## PrairieBoy (12 mo ago)

amelanso said:


> I wrote steps up after spending quite some time reading on the forums to see what others had to say then doing myself. Some recommended doing more work than is required (removing tracks, disconnect drive gear linkage etc). Once you open up the bottom and look carefully you will see that it is very ez with minimal parts to remove etc ( only what is needed to slide the shaft over for 2 inch gap). Careful not to get any grease on the friction wheel rubber or drive plate but this job is really as ez as it gets...


Your instructions were spot on ! The only difference to the HS80 is the bolt on the right side was 10mm now . The grease cap had to be heated a little with a heat gun as I work in a cold shed .














Here are pics as best I could take , for reference


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