# 1128 OXE Questions



## SteveMcG (Feb 17, 2015)

1) 2006 Toro does 500-700 feet of drivewazy per storm and now first gear its to fast.especially down hill, does mean the friction wheel (like a roll of toilet Paper ) is spinning faster near the end. is it Adjustable and/ or easy to replace?

2) the " power steering" doesn't disengage the wheel anymore on either side

Thanks in advance for any help


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

hello steve, welcome to *SBF!!* sounds like some adjustments are in order


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The wear of the friction wheel could make a difference but I wouldn't think it would be that noticeable. I would think an adjustment to the shifting linkage to move the friction wheel closer to the center of the driving wheel would be more noticeable to help you have a "lower" first gear speed. It will slightly bump up the reverse gears.


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## SteveMcG (Feb 17, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> The wear of the friction wheel could make a difference but I wouldn't think it would be that noticeable. I would think an adjustment to the shifting linkage to move the friction wheel closer to the center of the driving wheel would be more noticeable to help you have a "lower" first gear speed. It will slightly bump up the reverse gears.


You were right there was no wear on the friction wheel so I adjusted the wheel to the center of the drive wheel at "N" and that works wel
The Power steering (Wheel Clutch) I cleaned and lubed..it disengages and the wheel only stops driving for about a third of a turn ..it this normal


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That doesn't sound right but you'll have to wait for someone who knows. I don't have any experience with that system. 

Maybe Powershift93 will jump in ?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

there are cables on those triggers. try adjusting them. or they might need to be replaced. LET ME KNOW THE SCORE ON THAT 1.


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## SteveMcG (Feb 17, 2015)

I have tried adjusting them One so taunt there is no play in the cable not engaged the other a little play, neither will pull far enough to hit the handle.
The cables twist a black collar shift which disengages three fingers on a clutch. I can't make this colar move ant further than the cables pull it
The 3 fingers do disengage the drive wheel but but the wheel only free wheels for a third of a turn and the clutch is still disengaged
My thought now is ...Is there a left and right axle(part #32) because there is an axle tube(Part #36) in the middle. And once one clutch disengages should one axle free wheel and the other be driven by the other side clutch assembly
Ill have to stand it up on the nose to to take the bottom plate off to look at it again
Any thoughts

Here is a schematic
Toro 38650 (1128 OXE) - Toro Power Max 1128 OXE Snowthrower (SN: 250010001 - 250999999) (2005) WHEEL CLUTCH ASSEMBLY Diagram and Parts List | PartsTree.com


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Yes, there are 2 half axles that meet in a coupler/union/tube.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

SteveMcG said:


> I have tried adjusting them One so taunt there is no play in the cable not engaged the other a little play, neither will pull far enough to hit the handle.
> The cables twist a black collar shift which disengages three fingers on a clutch. I can't make this colar move ant further than the cables pull it
> The 3 fingers do disengage the drive wheel but but the wheel only free wheels for a third of a turn and the clutch is still disengaged
> My thought now is ...Is there a left and right axle(part #32) because there is an axle tube(Part #36) in the middle. And once one clutch disengages should one axle free wheel and the other be driven by the other side clutch assembly
> ...


when you get the chance. and with it on it's nose. shoot a vid of it. so we can have a better looksee. those diagrams tell me nothing.


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## PK778 (Feb 12, 2015)

Having just gone through this myself mine would only disengage both at one time not individually. An expert looked and explained that although they appear to work they are worn and the springs are not strong enough to disengage. There's no fix other than replacement parts which I believe is over $100 per side. My fix was selling it. these are heavy machines to drag around a corner if you have a lot of 180 degree turns on tight spaces like I do.


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## SteveMcG (Feb 17, 2015)

*Bigger 1128 problem*

So I haven't resolved the Steering issue yet but Being the season for the Toro to sit in the back of the garage and the motorcycle in front, I ran it outside, and added fuel Stabilizer then shut is off, moved the Bikes then went to pull start it but the rope wouldn't move, ran a cord to the starter, still wouldn't turn over
I then put a box wrench on the bolt on the pulley it spun a little backwards so I tried forward and get a scraping
Do I turn this into a boat anchor or is there hope for it
It's a 2006 and does 500+(most uphill) Feet of driveway every storm
Thoughts ??


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

If you shut it off and then had a problem trying to restart it that doesn't sound like a broken connecting rod.

I'd start by taking the pull starter/air shroud off and see if you still have the scraping noise when you try to turn it over with the pulley. I'd take the belt off too for now.


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## SteveMcG (Feb 17, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> If you shut it off and then had a problem trying to restart it that doesn't sound like a broken connecting rod.
> 
> I'd start by taking the pull starter/air shroud off and see if you still have the scraping noise when you try to turn it over with the pulley. I'd take the belt off too for now.


 Starter is off, with 3 broken teeth, and continues to bind and scrape. I marked the pulley and it freewheels for less than 1/4 turn binds for more than 1/4 turn and so on twice per revolution of the crank consistently. 
I tried to run a compression check but couldn't get a full pull on the rope without it binding up


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I was talking about removing the pull start/air shroud assembly as maybe something in the pull start broke and is scraping against the end of the crankshaft.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

the springs on those clutches need to be replaced.


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## Gondo (Nov 1, 2015)

The left lever I believe is the one that that controls the wheels. Right activates auger. Anyways if I recall corectly adjust the cable for the wheel activation side. It's adjust the speed and in one extreme will cause the snowblower to go in reverse instead of forward. 

Adjust it till it's working good. Mine loosens up with all the vibration. I may add some loctite to see if that helps keep things adjusted. 

It could also be the rod that connects the speed shifter to the friction wheel. Maybe that is adjustable. One of the two. I had the same problem. 

I also have problems with the steering triggers in cold weather. I opened up the back and there are these spring loaded things that engage to do the steering. Looks pretty cheap to me.


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