# Just another TRS32 - Interesting Tin Can over Choke



## unknown1

Just another TRS32

Missing carburetor box.
Interesting creative use of an old tin-can to protect the choke. It won't help protect the governor linkages and the rest of the carb though.

Friction disc looks worn and damaged. 

Electric starter was not working.. it is now! Just needed to rotate it past the dead spot.

Some structural rust damage where gravel or rocks have worn away the auger bucket neck near the impeller.

Photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9ERvr9Z3dPRkFyVq2


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## jtclays

Stuart,


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## unknown1

jtclays said:


> Stuart, That's not the average TRS Murray blower. It's heavily Murray in the chute and handles , but that tractor section is the old school JD with the differential. Left side wing nut to engage or disengage. Bolt on wheels. Auger gear box too. The friction wheel is very easy to swap, just one nut.


Does that mean I should be excited? 

I know that John Deere tried two different suppliers.. one had a very bad reputation, the other was better. I can't remember the details or where I read about that.
Is this one of the good ones?
I must admit the transmission and auger gearbox do look fairly heavy-duty.

The decal for the model number is totally erased so do you know what I have and where I should look to find parts diagrams for this?
I will need to get a friction wheel
The black Carburetor box should work from just about any Tecumseh 10HP I expect.. however I'm guessing JD had yellow/green and may be nice to have if I find one on eBay. 

BTW I know why the electric starter was not right. The left mounting bolt hole (closest to the flywheel) has cracked away so I can't get the starter to stay in place properly. This one will just need to stay manual start because I don't think there's any way to re-bore the mounting bolt hole. I certainly don't want to risk going into the crankcase. 
New photo added to album showing that damage.
Photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9ERvr9Z3dPRkFyVq2


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## Kiss4aFrog

If that starter hole is messed up already you could always try to use some JB Weld to literally glue the bolt back into place. It's not going to come apart nicely should you want to get that bolt out but for as long as the starter lasts it should stay in place. Sometimes it's nice to have an electric on something that big (10hp ??) should it have a problem starting and you need it right then.

All I can remember is when i see TRS on a JD I think trash because they were not true JD built machines. I'm trying to remember but I think some of the TRS were Ariens built and some were Murray. The Murray ones just weren't as strong as the original JD ones and that's why they they were considered "trash". A Murray is what a Murray is. It'll blow snow just fine but don't expect to suck in a frozen newspaper and not have damage where the original JD would likely be just fine.
That one looks to be in nice shape and well worth some detailing :wink:


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## jtclays

Exc


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## unknown1

Kiss4aFrog said:


> If that starter hole is messed up already you could always try to use some JB Weld to literally glue the bolt back into place. It's not going to come apart nicely should you want to get that bolt out but for as long as the starter lasts it should stay in place. Sometimes it's nice to have an electric on something that big (10hp ??) should it have a problem starting and you need it right then.
> 
> All I can remember is when i see TRS on a JD I think trash because they were not true JD built machines. I'm trying to remember but I think some of the TRS were Ariens built and some were Murray. The Murray ones just weren't as strong as the original JD ones and that's why they they were considered "trash". A Murray is what a Murray is. It'll blow snow just fine but don't expect to suck in a frozen newspaper and not have damage where the original JD would likely be just fine.
> That one looks to be in nice shape and well worth some detailing :wink:


Ah yes... JB Weld... I try to forget about that stuff but in this case it may be worth a try... nothing to lose!

I think this may (perhaps) be one of the good ones... did you look at the pictures of the transmission and auger gearbox.. very heavy duty! Looking forward to hearing if anyone knows exactly what I've got.
All the rest of the machine seems good enough too. It's hard to believe that this was one of the ones with the bad reputation. If so I'd like to remember why they had a bad rap. I can't remember where I read all that stuff about the two suppliers. I just remember vaguely that there were good ones and bad ones. As always.. anything from this era is better than most things made today so I'm happy either way.


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## unknown1

jtclays said:


> Excited? Guess it's up to you, but that's a lot better built machine than Murray could do on their own. Just passing along info.
> Plain 826, 1032 is JD made. The TRS are contracts out to Murray. The "D" (826D, 1032D) were Ariens contracts. The TRS models have a serial break where some are left over Moline made tractors/auger gear box and then after the break you'll find Murray everywhere.
> Deere eventually went to Briggs buiding blowers and then dropped out of Walk behind blowers entirely.
> If you go to Scots site you can read about some of the models.
> 
> Friction disc is M114485 on yours, they ain't cheap.
> You can look around here for parts:
> John Deere - Parts Catalog
> Like any John Deere part, google the part number for several different sources and usually get varying prices (especially bushings and bearings). Every once in awhile the JD dealer is the lowest, but rarely. I can't find the old post, but I found the "D" series belt covers were near $70 from JD and the exact Ariens cover was like $20. I had a JD made 826 from '89 with same tractor and auger gear box. Tank of a machine.


That's the info I'd seen but forgotten. Thanks!! 3 vintages: JD, Murray and Ariens. I seem to remember that the Murray ones were the ones that caused complaints....but I can't remember the details.


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## unknown1

*The starter had a jammed pinion gear*

It turns out the starter motor was not just stuck on a dead spot on the commutator.
The pinion gear was jammed in the "start" position and was not sliding back out of the way into the "run"position.

A bit of penetrating oil and a sharp tap with a hammer fixed that.

I'm guessing the damage to the mounting bolt hole was caused by that pinion refusing to slide out of the way and the fly-wheel tried to free-spin the starter motor at engine speed! 

I guess the previous owner must have given in almost immediately because the starter motor is just fine. 
It broke the mounting bolt hole but that's all. He must have just decided to give in and didn't actually get the engine started.

That's good news otherwise the bearings in the motor would probably have suffered badly if he ever got the engine started.


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## unknown1

Kiss4aFrog said:


> If that starter hole is messed up already you could always try to use some JB Weld to literally glue the bolt back into place.....


Boy oh boy this is not as easy at that sounds.
I've had two attempts at gluing it on and chiselling it off again.

The problem is trying to set the angles and to make the angles stay where you thought you set them.
If the alignment is too far one way, the pinion gear slams into the flywheel instead of meshing with it.
If it's too far the other way, it misses the flywheel altogether and just spins in mid-air.

If the bolt holes were not damaged, you could use washers to shim the angles into alignment.
If they are damaged.. it's a little tricky.

So now I've got the flywheel cover off and I'm going to have one last try to make everything line up and stay lined up as the JB Weld sets.
I'm having to bend the four mounting brackets on the starter motor (with subtle use of a mallet) to try to get things lined up.
But there's no aluminum on the side closest to the flywheel to give a solid base to stop things wobbling.

Stuck a couple of pilot bolts in place to give the JBW something to set against
I love JB weld... so easy and pretty to work with ;-)

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2SpvffcqIKgwJNQe2


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## sscotsman

stuart80112 said:


> I know that John Deere tried two different suppliers.. one had a very bad reputation, the other was better. I can't remember the details or where I read about that.
> Is this one of the good ones?


You might have read about it here:

https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page11.html#question3

(scroll down past Cub Cadet and Bolens to get to John Deere)

and with those two suppliers, Ariens was the good one.
The Murrays were the ones with the very bad reputation..sorry.

Scot


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## unknown1

sscotsman said:


> You might have read about it here...The Murrays were the ones with the very bad reputation..sorry...


Yes! That was it! Thanks! JD versus Murray versus Ariens. I notice in those articles that even B&S crept into the picture towards the end too.

It's hard to pin down what the problem or problems really were thought to be.. so it's hard for me to look for them.
Some say under-powered (but a 10HP Tecumseh is a 10HP Tecumseh.. so that doesn't help). Maybe they really meant the throwing distance.
Others say "I was constantly fixing this or that"... but without knowing what "this" and "that" are... I can't tell there either. 
One mentioned a "jumpiness" on first use. So they were probably talking about the transmission when it was new. This one doesn't "jump".

Some say it doesn't throw far enough.. Maybe a rubber impeller kit will fix that if it becomes a problem. 
There is certainly a huge gap between the impeller and the neck of the auger bucket. 
That gap is here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/H2AvJzrOpCaIoAib2
and here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/lZl95cgI9QTu6TG83
From everything I've seen so far.. that gap looks like the most-likely candidate for complaint.

I was however happy to hear from jtclays that this seems to be something of a hybrid... it has the tractor of an old-school JD.
So I am wondering if the switch from JD to Murray was perhaps a gradual process and this one might be closer to pure JD than the later Murray ones.
That's all guesswork not fact. The decal is erased so I can't pin down the specifics using a serial number.

In any case... it does seem quite strong and heavy-duty...I'll just have to wait to see how it works in the trickier snow conditions.


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## unknown1

stuart80112 said:


> Boy oh boy this is not as easy at that sounds......


Strike Three... I'm out!
This starter motor just doesn't want to line up properly. I gave it my best shot but it has me beat.
I'm taking it off and will use it somewhere else. This thing is just going to have to be a disc-slipping shoulder-wrenching manual start. :-(
At least I got a chance to perfect my JB Welding as seen in the earlier photos ;-)

Maybe JBW would work for just one hole damaged (you'd still have a solid tripod using the other three)... but I couldn't get it to work for two holes.


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## sscotsman

So it sounds like this TRS is living up to its family reputation?

Scot


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## unknown1

sscotsman said:


> So it sounds like this TRS is living up to its family reputation?Scot


Not really... These things can happen with starter motors and aluminum mounting holes.
In any case it's a Tecumseh engine with Tecumseh starter and Tecumseh aluminum mounting holes.
Same thing can happen on any machine. 
I won't blame that one on Murray (or even on Tecumseh) ... I blame that on aluminum ;-)

*Edit Correction: I DO blame Tecumseh.. see next post to see why or look at this photo:*
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ejXrGDkRLYA9Epdz2

If the old-school JD's used Tecumseh engines (or any other aluminum engine) they would be vulnerable to the same issue.
...just being fair.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Sorry for putting the bug in your ear and causing you the trouble. It sounded like a good idea at the time :sad2:


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## unknown1

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Sorry for putting the bug in your ear and causing you the trouble. It sounded like a good idea at the time :sad2:


Not at all... it was a great idea! 
I think it would work well for one out of four holes. The other three good holes would keep things lined-up nicely.
I'm only messing with machines as a hobby... trying that once was an interesting experiment and almost fun... almost... in a masochistic kind of way ;-)


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## unknown1

stuart80112 said:


> I won't blame that one on Murray (or even on Tecumseh) ... I blame that on aluminum


Actually, let me rephrase that.. I think I DO blame it on Tecumseh... they could have added an extra 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch of aluminum around those holes to make them stronger.

Edit: This shows an undamaged set of mount holes and where I think Tecumseh should have added extra aluminum.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xUt4Xg8omzjKUGsG3

Notice how it's the ones nearest the flywheel that failed.. they are the ones with the least amount of aluminum. Shame on Tecumseh!! ;-)
Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EFbsGectD6dkUYKQ2


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## HCBPH

Stuart


Want a way to fix that broken starter mount issue? Take a look at the thread I had about welding a new tab on a starter where it was broken off. On this one I'd weld a strip between the 2 mounting tabs, clean up the welds on the bottom side . Now you have some raised material between the 2 existing holes, I'd consider grinding that down flush otherwise you're going to have adjust the tab to take that into account. Once the strip is welded in, drill for a new hole though it. match it up to the engine and drill a new mounting hole using the 2 holes for alignment. Depending on material, you might even want to consider using a Helicoil in it. Obviously you'd have to do this twice, so what's the motor worth having a working starter on it?


Just a thought.


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## unknown1

HCBPH said:


> ...Want a way to fix that broken starter mount issue? ...


I put some photos together to try to capture what I think you are suggesting. Do these annotated pictures match what you are thinking?
Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yoec3Lh3AAZSqtH72


My main problem is I have no welding equipment so anything I do I will have to pay someone to do it.
Also, if the first attempt isn't quite right, I can't easily use a trial-and-error-until-it-works approach. I'd need to keep going back to the welder again.

Earlier in this thread, did you see how difficult it was to try to get the alignment right so that the pinion gear engages correctly with the flywheel?
That worries me a little. However, if there were a pair of solid welded support plates and 4 proper holes in the aluminum it should make it easier to "shim" the mounts with washers to get the alignment right.

By the way, I think I found your thread where you welded on a new support tab but then lost it again and can't find it. Can you post a link for me please?
I think you were using a damp cloth to avoid toasting the inside of the starter.... it might have been easier and safer to just dismantle the starter and separate the case from the internals.


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## HCBPH

Stuart


The last picture (bottom right) is what I think would be better in this case. Obviously the mounting surface needs to be flat, that would be the fun part - getting it flat. If you weld off only 1 tab I don't think it will be strong enough if welded on only 1 side, you'd have to weld off both the tab and motor housing I'm afraid on that way and even then I'm not too sure on it being strong enough. Going off both tabs will keep heat away from the windings if you use a rag to cool the bracket where it goes under the housing. 
Maybe have your metal shaped and predrilled with a couple of holes prior to welding, then if something isn't 'quite right' you have a fudge factor. Personally I'd have the hole about 1/2" off the tab nearest the flywheel so you have as much spread as you can get on them (if the block material below it is solid and suitable for drilling).


That one I did I think I even had to helicoil the block as the threads were broken out, though the surrounding metal was still there. Yours is worse than what I dealt with.


I'll see if I can find the doc on that one tonight or at least post pictures if I have a chance.


Paul


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## unknown1

HCBPH said:


> ....The last picture (bottom right) is what I think would be better in this case. Obviously the mounting surface needs to be flat, that would be the fun part - getting it flat...


It's certainly food for thought. 
I just don't have the necessary tools right now. I keep telling myself I need to get an angle grinder and disc grinder. The other deterrent is that the starter motor is currently usable on another machine. Once I get someone to weld two chunks of metal onto it, it won't fit anywhere else. It's a great idea.. but I'm not really able to move forward with it until I get some kind of grinding tool to take off the surplus aluminum. 
I also thought about having my aluminum welder guy fix a blob of aluminum over the broken mount holes and then re-tap it. But that's a little hard to arrange unless I take the whole blower (or at least the engine) to his workshop. At least that approach would leave the starter motor untouched and therefore reusable if the experiment fails. My JB Weld failure has left me "once bitten..twice shy". It seemed so easy and doable... until you actually try it. Nothing lines up quite right.


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## jrcjr

Not sure if it's too late or not, but you may want to try putting a threaded insert around the bolt and then JB-weld around the threaded insert, that way you can still get the bolt out and back in if you need to.

If the JB-weld doesn't work, and you can clean up the area well enough, maybe fill in and rebuild the area with silver-solder, or something with a melting point lower than aluminum.

Or if you're up to the task and the risk, they do make specialty aluminum brazing rods that melt a little below the melting point of aluminum base-metal (a standard propane torch can be used). A little risky, but might pay off. You can try rebuilding the area with actual aluminum.


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## unknown1

jrcjr said:


> Not sure if it's too late or not, but you may want to try putting a threaded insert around the bolt and then JB-weld around the threaded insert, that way you can still get the bolt out and back in if you need to.
> If the JB-weld doesn't work, and you can clean up the area well enough, maybe fill in and rebuild the area with silver-solder, or something with a melting point lower than aluminum.
> Or if you're up to the task and the risk, they do make specialty aluminum brazing rods that melt a little below the melting point of aluminum base-metal (a standard propane torch can be used). A little risky, but might pay off. You can try rebuilding the area with actual aluminum.


More great ideas.. thanks! 

Way back in post #1 of my Drift Breaker thread I put a link comparing brazing to welding for aluminum. It's interesting.. all the videos you see talk about aluminum being tricky to work with due to the fact that you have to pre-heat the entire work area because aluminum conducts the heat away so quickly (meaning you don't get enough heat) or you accidentally melt the whole piece (meaning too much heat). However, the welding guy I used just shrugged his shoulders as if to say it was all no big deal. Then again... he has TIG, MIG and ARC welders and years of experience doing this day in day out. For me to get to a level of proficiency that could possibly work I would need to get an old lawnmower engine to practice on and just start fastening chunks of aluminum in various places until I feel like I have some idea what the heck I'm doing. .

Right now I have several options to think about
1) Just give in and do nothing
2) Have the welder rebuild the aluminum professionally and re-tap it
3) Fabricate a plate and grind down the surplus aluminum like HCBPH (Paul) suggested and re-tap holes in different places.
4) Get up the learning curve and try some brazing rods or solder rods doing it myself
5) JB Weld with threaded inserts which theoretically would allow the use of shim washers to line things up better after it has set.. that part is critical and easy to get wrong.
6) Wait for a donor machine to show up with a good engine but busted auger gearbox for $50

E-ZLok Inserts: https://www.ezlok.com/
HeliCoil: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=33707986

I must admit.. I'm leaning towards (1) or (6) right now due to a lack of tools or experience... although (5) sounds tantalizingly easy and no-risk (just like last time).. I just have an inbuilt hatred for JB Weld in all its goopy messy sloppy dripping glory...it refuses to stay where I put it ;-) The other problem I anticipate is that when it comes time to tighten up the mounting bolts, it may just crack the JB Weld or pull it off from the engine, there isn't much for the JB Weld to grip onto.
I think I might do nothing and wait for a donor engine and then play with this engine offline to try out some options.


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## jrcjr

I think JB-Weld also makes a two-part putty that goes on like Play-Doh and hardens up like concrete, if you don't like the goopy epoxy angle of things. ; )


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## unknown1

Well, after all those suggestions I felt I had to give it one more try with the old JB Weld.

This time I drained the oil and turned the blower on its side with the starter area pointing to the sky.
It's the only way I could think of to get gravity to stop the JB Weld sliding off.
I have a couple of threaded inserts and bolts in approximately the right positions and a puddle of JB Weld on each.
Tomorrow I will add more of my favorite grey goop to give it the best chance to hold.

Something tells me all I will achieve here is to glue the gas line in place and glue those bolts into their inserts.
OK.. think positive.. this _might _work... ;-)


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## unknown1

jrcjr said:


> I think JB-Weld also makes a two-part putty that goes on like Play-Doh and hardens up like concrete, if you don't like the goopy epoxy angle of things. ; )


Yes I thought about that.. but I couldn't convince myself that the putty-style would stick to the engine block. 
It would probably work well wrapped around a leaking pipe or something like that but I don't see how it can bond to a fairly flat engine casing if it's already semi-hard.
Anyway... this wet stuff is WAY more fun...I'm sure glad Tecumseh skimped on the extra 1/4 inch of aluminum. ;-)


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## YSHSfan

Stuart,

How about making 2 plates (1/4" or thicker) that you can run horizontally on the starter, weld them to the starter, use the rear holes (pto side) where they are, but for the front drill and thread new holes maybe 1/2" or 3/4" away from the damaged part and it will be "as good as new"


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## YSHSfan

Stuart,

I just realized you had some pictures with kind of the idea I'm suggesting. As for having no welder, you can just lay the plates on top of the starter tabs, once you are happy with the set up, you can use JB weld to 'weld' the plate to the starter tabs. 

I had to use one of your pictures to try and explain my idea.










By the way, how can you draw the rectangles and write inside the pictures? That would be very helpful for my HSS1328ATD thread description.


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## unknown1

YSHSfan said:


> ....As for having no welder, you can just lay the plates on top of the starter tabs, once you are happy with the set up, you can use JB weld to 'weld' the plate to the starter tabs........ By the way, how can you draw the rectangles and write inside the pictures? That would be very helpful for my HSS1328ATD thread description.


Neat trick.. that way I wouldn't need to grind down the extra aluminum that lies between the tabs. It's amazing how many different ideas people can dream up. Right now I'm doing the threaded inserts and hoping for the best.  I like this idea because it keeps the starter motor reusable elsewhere if I fail (again)... I also get to use more JB Weld.... I was hoping someone would find a way to bring duct-tape into it too.;-)

Drawing and writing on pictures:
If you have a windows machine (looking at your screen-scrape I see you do) then it comes with an old program called "Paint" that is decades old... actually they recently switched to "Paint3d" for Windows 10 but the old basic "Paint" program is there too. It lets you add text, rectangles, circles, arrows and various other basic annotations. It's a bit clunky but it gets the job done.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4027344/windows-10-get-microsoft-paint
If you right click on an image and choose "Open With.." you should then be able to select "Paint". If you don't want to overwrite the original unedited picture, remember to do "Save As" instead of "Save" to make a second copy of the file.


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## YSHSfan

stuart80112 said:


> I was hoping someone would find a way to bring duct-tape into it too.;-)


This works way better..... :grin:









Thanks for the tips on 'Paint', I'll be trying it out (this may let me post just a series of pictures with the description in it, making the post shorter and maybe more interesting....)


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## unknown1

So far so good... 

JB Weld and Duct Tape in one repair!... how can it possibly fail? ;-)

After laying the machine on its side to combat gravity, I made some dams out of plastic strips cut from the lid of a food container and used duct tape to hold them in place. 
That makes a nice reservoir for the JB Weld puddle to sit in to avoid it running everywhere. 
I will leave it for 48 hours to cure in this cooler autumn weather before trying to mount the starter motor. 
This looks like it might even work this time Thanks for the idea jrcjr.

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/4ObueyWkEaIPr3uH3


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## unknown1

..and finally... after lots of positioning and re-positioning of those threaded inserts, $30 (total) of JB Weld, $10 for inserts and a bunch of dremel work to lower the high spots and make things line up.... the starter motor is now mounted and working. I had to take the pull-rope flywheel cover off again to be able to see the alignment of the pinion gear and the flywheel.... for a while there it was still still missing and spinning in mid-air. I also dismantled and rebuilt the starter motor gear to make sure it was moving freely along the threaded shaft with minimal friction. I won't even mention the accidental drill hole into the engine crankcase. ;-)
Let's hope it lasts.


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## unknown1

One thing I would say for anyone trying this "repair" in the future..

In hindsight, I wish I'd got a rectangle of sheet metal and marked and drilled 4 holes that match the holes on the starter motor.
Next, put bolts through those holes and bolt two of them into the non-broken mount holes.
The other two holes I'd put longer bolts through them and continue into the threaded inserts on the other side.
This would ensure that all the bolts and inserts are in the right position and lined up at the correct angles waiting for the JB Weld to harden.

In my case (without the metal plate) the inserts kept swimming around in the JB Weld or drooped off leaning to one side or the other.
This meant that they were always slightly out of position each time I tried to bolt in the starter so I needed to remove the inserts, drill out some JB Weld and try to reset them again in a slightly different position.
That was a lot of unnecessary fiddling and re-doing. Hindsight is 20-20.


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## GoBlowSnow

If the carb cover is the same that fits the TRS-27 I might have an extra one if you need it.


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## unknown1

GoBlowSnow said:


> If the carb cover is the same that fits the TRS-27 I might have an extra one if you need it.


Thanks for the offer. I pulled a black cover off an old engine that threw a rod. They are all interchangeable on Tecumseh engines of a similar size.
If yours is green or yellow or has some other John Deere branding on it I'd be interested... but if it's just black I'm good to go.

EDIT: One thing I could use is the mounting bracket that bolts onto the carburetor and then meets up with the carburetor box.
Right now I just have the box fastened with the bolt next to the oil dipstick and the bolt up on top... I was thinking of bending some strip metal or even some aluminum strip to fake the missing bracket. It doesn't need to be strong.. just enough rigidity to stop the box rattling.... it doesn't take any weight.

They are only $7 anyway.. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/tecumseh/37659
or here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10HP-Tecums...573222?hash=item56a2350d26:g:UvoAAOxyyq5TK0kB


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## HCBPH

Stuart


This is a little hard to describe so hopefully bear with me. First off, good to hear you got the inserts in and I hope they hold. What I could see happening is with something like a 10 HP, you have a lot of mass there and in the event of a kick or comparable it would put a lot of pressure outward on the starter, potentially pushing it away from the flywheel. Before trying the electric starter, I'd maybe use the rope and put the engine into compression first. I think the torque required there may be more but I don't think there is as high a chance of getting a kick out of it.


The other thing that just came to mind is if this is a aluminum block, it's likely sleeved. If you see a good cast iron 7-10 hp come along, consider that instead. I prefer cast blocks over aluminum any day. I can't speak to clones, only Tecumseh in this case.


Just some thoughts
Paul


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## unknown1

HCBPH said:


> Stuart
> This is a little hard to describe so hopefully bear with me. First off, good to hear you got the inserts in and I hope they hold. What I could see happening is with something like a 10 HP, you have a lot of mass there and in the event of a kick or comparable it would put a lot of pressure outward on the starter, potentially pushing it away from the flywheel. Before trying the electric starter, I'd maybe use the rope and put the engine into compression first. I think the torque required there may be more but I don't think there is as high a chance of getting a kick out of it.
> The other thing that just came to mind is if this is a aluminum block, it's likely sleeved. If you see a good cast iron 7-10 hp come along, consider that instead. I prefer cast blocks over aluminum any day. I can't speak to clones, only Tecumseh in this case.
> Just some thoughts
> Paul


Thanks Paul.. I get what you are saying.. the kick would be felt at the peak compression point.... so by starting things off in that position it will take two full revolutions before the next kick is felt... by that time the pinion gear should have done its job and slid back out of the way into a safe position to avoid feeling that next big kick. Right?

As for aluminum versus cast blocks.. absolutely.... but if I got a better engine I'd probably put it on my Drift Breaker SearsaSaurus MkII  
This John Deere is just another blower in my collection and way down my priority list behind the Drift Breaker, 3 Bobcats, 2 Snappers and a Gilson. I have other basic Craftsman 2 stages too and a Toro. 
I guess it's time for me to unload some of these.. it's getting out of hand and a bit crazy. I have more snowblowers than the number of snow days in a typical year (especially if you add in the single stage machines too). One day I might even get a car back into my garage. ;-)


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## HCBPH

Easier to nip it now rather than later. At one point I was up to a high of 13 machines, but I'm down to 5 at the moment.
I'm not planning on going any higher than that any time soon as the back yard was looking more like a junkyard than a back yard. I salvaged what I expected to use from a couple of machines, sold a few and got the list down.
I've also slowed down a little too, enjoying life a little more than I used to in the past.


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## Duff Daddy

This is a deere 828d. Ariens. You can tell by the side profile of the housing









Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


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## GoBlowSnow

Yup. Good machine, only crappy thing about it is the light. Very useless.


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## YSHSfan

GoBlowSnow said:


> Yup. Good machine, only crappy thing about it is the light. Very useless.


Upgrading to an LED light shouldn't be too bad and will solve that issue. :angel:


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## GoBlowSnow

Yeah. But where that light is mounted is pretty useless. I'd mount one on the handlebar.


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