# Converting from Track to Wheels help?



## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

My first post here hoping for some help.

Has anyone attempted this??

Recently picked up a Pro 28 track model (Friction disc drive)with VERY little time on it for a killer deal.

Now I know why LOL. So maybe NOT so killer

Making turns with this thing or trying to just plain move it is going to take a couple cans of Spinach if you know what I mean....


I did find a thread somewhere where someone else was attempting to do the same thing on their Ariens track machine, but for the life of me can't figure out where I saw the thread.....

Also can anyone explain how exactly the differential lock/unlock knob works to activate the differential on this model so I don't have to take it apart to learn? 
Wondering if I can engineer another way of accomplishing this because then I think I can just pull the track assemblies off and mount the appropriate sized tired adn wels.

Sure appreciate any insight.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to the forum sodbuster


Before you commit to tearing off the tracks you might want to see if just cleaning and lubricating the mechanisms might help.

It might not be so much the track system as a poorly maintained track system.


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## lillbear (Jan 5, 2016)

Well I have a Hydro pro track 28 and wouldn't go back to tires. Like I posted before my wife at 125 lbs can use it no problem. It does take some getting use to but once I figured it out it works great. If you try to do a large turn it doesn't work well I found you have to turn smaller radius and turn like you mean it. Kinda hard to explain with words but I showed my wife and she never had a problem after that. Not sure if that's any help. 
If you want to convert it to wheel it shouldn't be to hard. I believe all you need is the pro wheels and the lock pin. Your track drive is just mounted on the same setup as the wheel model.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

Lubrication isn't the problem.When I got the machine home I tore apart the friction disc assy as the rubber was completely burned off one side and found the cause.A frozen disc shaft bearing.
Replaced both, lubed all the drive related bearings and made sure everything is free.
Everything I've read about track machines since buying it confirms the fact that track machines are a BEAR to roll manually.No question.Most people regret buying one over a wheeled machine.
Reason why is the machine is 400lbs and on flat tracks.Pavement contact/rolling friction is *much* greater due to that.The machine needs to be driven to move it around.Otherwise it takes almost as much force as pushing a medium sized car.Nothing Will make it better other than wheels.

Lillbear,if only it were that simple.Axle shafts on the 2 machines are different along with the differential along with a number of bushings.Plus I can't tell from Any of the drawings how they engage/disengage the differential on the wheeled machine.No parts are shown indicating this.
That's why I'm hoping someone can tell me how the differential engagement works on the track machine.
Cost of buying all the factory parts to do the job it's over$250 before buying the wheels.
Hardly worth it.
But if I can engineer a simple way of engaging/disengaging the existing differential,I can always MAKE a pair of wheels work.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

First off, sodbuster, welcome! And congrats on what should be a great machine. Even better when you can get a great price! 

I'm a bit unclear on how your machine is equipped. Does it have Auto Turn? Or an open differential? Or something else? I get the impression that maybe lilbear's machine has Auto Turn, but I don't know. 

But Ariens has used several different systems to make turning easier. If you can post what system your machine uses, that would probably help people better understand your setup. Posting the model # might help.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

Hi RedOct,
Thanks for the welcome.
You have a point about the different drive designs..
Model# is 926042
It's not Autoturn.
It has the differential you engage/disengage with the turn of a knob located on the outside of the right track at the drive axle.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

OK, thanks. I can actually help a bit, then. 

I've had 2 Ariens machines (friction-disk) with the manually-lockable open differential, like you're describing. With the knob on one side. Mine have wheels, though, no tracks. 

This system uses an open differential. You unlock the differential by pulling the spring-loaded pin out (at the wheel with the pin), and rotating the pin until it locks in the pulled-out position. This pulls the pin out of the axle holes that serve to lock the two axles together. 

One axle shaft is hollow. The shaft from the other side of the machine extends through the hollow shaft. So both shafts extend to where this pin is located. When you let the pin spring forward, towards the wheel (or the center of the machine), then pivot the machine a little, the pin slips back into the axle hole. 

Since the pin assembly is mounted to one shaft ("wheel A"), and the axle hole is mounted to the second shaft ("wheel B"), when you drop the pin into the axle hole, you lock the differential together. Locking the axles together, for more traction, but making the machine much harder to turn. 

Pull the pin and keep it retracted (pull then pin then rotate it so it stays pulled back), and you unlock the axles. On my wheeled machines, and the axles unlocked, I can easily pivot the blower in-place with one hand. 

With the machine in the service position, and the axles unlocked (differential open), you should be able to rotate one axle forward, while the other would spin in the other direction. At least with wheels, I don't know about spinning the tracks. 

But note that one axle spins inside of the other when the differential is open, and you turn the machine. If the axles rusted together, or are otherwise stuck to each other, then even if you pull the pin, the axle would effectively still be locked. Mine has a grease fitting on the axle, you could try lubing that, if the axles seem stuck. 

Sorry, trying to explain the pin-pulling & differential is a bit awkward in just words. But in practice, the system is very simple, on my machines.


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## pfn (Dec 24, 2010)

I'm the guy that wanted to change my tracks for wheels. After the last very heavy snow I've decided to fight the damned thing in the small snows just so I'd have the tracks when I need tracks. I needed the tracks last time.

That said I believe it is a very easy swap. The chassis is the same so it appears all you need is the axle, diff, wheels and a few bearings. I didn't pursue it to much as I wasn't going to do anything until after the season but now...

It's very simple to get the part numbers needed using the parts explosions on Ariens website.

Tracks are a royal pain... until you need them as I did during the last big one. There has to be a better way.

Good luck!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Normally people who buy a tracked machine buy it for the tracks because they need them not for the price since usually they are more expensive. 

Since it's so late in the season maybe you can post it on craigslist for a comparable trade. You get a wheeled version and someone needing a tracked machine gets yours ??

I looked around but can't find any other Ariens articles on converting from tracks to wheels. 

A lot of the guys here have built or bought dolly's for their machines to move them around when not using them in the snow.
Coby7 spent some time and effort making his but you can also pick up a furniture dolly at harbor freight or anything with wheels you can make work.


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## lillbear (Jan 5, 2016)

sodbuster said:


> Lubrication isn't the problem.When I got the machine home I tore apart the friction disc assy as the rubber was completely burned off one side and found the cause.A frozen disc shaft bearing.
> Replaced both, lubed all the drive related bearings and made sure everything is free.
> Everything I've read about track machines since buying it confirms the fact that track machines are a BEAR to roll manually.No question.Most people regret buying one over a wheeled machine.
> Reason why is the machine is 400lbs and on flat tracks.Pavement contact/rolling friction is *much* greater due to that.The machine needs to be driven to move it around.Otherwise it takes almost as much force as pushing a medium sized car.Nothing Will make it better other than wheels.
> ...


Hmm I knew the track conversion kit was about 600$ and that they claimed you just had to take the wheels.Now you got me curious I'll have to check it out since my father as a pro wheel and my brother one like yours I'll have to go take the cover off :wink:. If you go on snowblower direct they sell a direct fit track kit for the Pro 28 wheel. Other then the track frame there no differential or anything that would indicate that you would have to replace the diff.. Maybe the axle. Worth checking it out since it has the same unlocking system if you look on the site let me know what you think


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

RedOctobyr said:


> OK, thanks. I can actually help a bit, then.
> 
> I've had 2 Ariens machines (friction-disk) with the manually-lockable open differential, like you're describing. With the knob on one side. Mine have wheels, though, no tracks.
> 
> ...


 Thanks for the explanation. For somebody with a mechanical mind it was actually explained perfectly and very easy to understand
Understood completely as to how the axles lock together to both drive in the same direction as one unit or be independent of each other to be allowed to turn in different directions. 

What I also didn't understand (and should have asked as well) is how the differential itself works as to not drive one wheel vs. the other.

But now that you've explained the above I would think it has to be a system very similar if not identical to the Autoturn differential internally since both the left and right axles are splined going into the 2 sides of the differential and the center of the differential is constantly driven..........

Correct??


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

sodbuster said:


> What I also didn't understand (and should have asked as well) is how the differential itself works as to not drive one wheel vs. the other.
> 
> But now that you've explained the above I would think it has to be a system very similar if not identical to the Autoturn differential internally since both the left and right axles are splined going into the 2 sides of the differential and the center of the differential is constantly driven..........
> 
> Correct??


Pretty much. It's a "normal" open differential, like on a car. 

Yes, the center housing of the differential is driven, and the two axles have splines, coming from the outputs on either side of the differential. 

But unlike Auto Turn, it's just an open differential. As with any open diff (like in a car), the same amount of torque goes to each wheel. So if you got a rubber tire on smooth ice, even if the other is on pavement, you will stop moving, and the wheel on ice will just spin. You basically only have as much torque (forward drive) as your lowest-friction wheel (or track). The same as with a car that doesn't have traction control. 

So it's a 2 wheel drive setup, but if just one wheel gets on something really slippery, you'll stop moving. The advantage is that under normal conditions, however, both wheels are pushing you, like with your car. And you can make a broad, wide turn while under power, or you can make a quick tight turn. The differential never needs to unlock while actually driving (it's always unlocked, if you pulled the pin), and it will never try to fight you. 

But Auto Turn, as I understand it, has its own advantages. It locks and unlocks on-the-fly. When you're driving straight, it apparently locks the differential, giving you better traction. If you had 1 wheel on smooth ice, and the other had grip on pavement, you'd at least keep moving. And when you try to turn the machine, it apparently unlocks the differential while you drive, allowing you to turn the machine more easily. Let it go straight again, and it locks up again. 

I haven't used Auto Turn, but I like the differential setup. There are no adjustments or anything to worry about, the differential is a simple open diff, and it's locked manually. With chains and a sloped driveway, I have rarely had complaints about traction. But I can still pivot the machine easily at the end of a pass.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

pfn said:


> I'm the guy that wanted to change my tracks for wheels. After the last very heavy snow I've decided to fight the damned thing in the small snows just so I'd have the tracks when I need tracks. I needed the tracks last time.
> 
> That said I believe it is a very easy swap. The chassis is the same so it appears all you need is the axle, diff, wheels and a few bearings. I didn't pursue it to much as I wasn't going to do anything until after the season but now...
> 
> ...


 Boy am I glad you chimed into this thread.Maybe we can figure this out together.

I haven't had a chance to try mine out in anything more than 1/2" so far, and then, only to try it real briefly to see how much of a bear it was going to be to turn in actual use once I got it back into good working order.So I'm not convinced just yet that I can't live with it the way it is.

Truth be told I'd have stayed out there and played more if I hadn't thought my neighbors must really think I've finally lost it completely by not only showing up with this Snowzilla of a machine to use on my 30' long 4 car driveway that usually has 3 cars parked on it,but that I was using it to clear a 1/2" of snow that was supposed to melt by the evening.
I was actually a little embarrassed .... can you say waaaayyyyy overkill for the job?? 

What I did notice though in that VERY short time is exactly what RedOct said.
As far as snowblowing with it, there's a method you have to use to execute turns without struggling too much. You have to actually almost hold or pull back a little the side you DON'T want to drive to allow the opposite side to continue to drive and bring the machine around. Trying to force the machine into a turn by pushing/forcing the machine into a turn will not work out well for your muscles or your temper.

Still.....trying to roll it NOT under power?? 

After one stormy winter you're gonna look like Schwartzeneger.....


So if you it's either dump the tracks and mount wheels, or like others have done keep it tracked and on some sort of dolly, OR....mount some kind of retractable wheels under the gear box for rolling it without power. Or, dump it and get a wheeled version.


I also compared the drawings of the tracked vs. wheeled machines and just like you saw it wasn't a big deal to convert,but you do need to drop $250-$300
for the assorted parts PLUS the pair of wheels/tires.So you could potentially be looking at almost $500 BESIDES the premium you already spent for the **** tracks in the first place.

To me, that's just stupid.

My feeling is if you can't live with the tracks (which I really really do want to since I have a feeling this thing is going to plow thru plowed in driveway aprons like it was butter as compared to a wheeled machine) you either sell the machine next fall to try and recoup as much as you can and buy a wheeled model, OR you find a way of converting it to wheel WITHOUT having to buy all the factory parts.
I have a feeling the latter can be done without TOO much trouble and at a much lower expense by finding a set of wheels that will either fit the existing axles or a set close enough that you can machine away any differences that keep them from fitting and also allow the axle lock to be remounted.

The stumbling block on the wheels fitting the existing axles is the hub diameter. The axles are keyed 1" diameter.
8" wheels with a hub to match that axle are not easy to find as I'm learning and trying to open up one that has a 7/8" bore will not work because the wall thickness is not thick enough.
At least none that I've found so far.Doesn't mean they don't exist though...


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

sodbuster said:


> The stumbling block on the wheels fitting the existing axles is the hub diameter. The axles are keyed 1" diameter.
> 8" wheels with a hub to match that axle are not easy to find as I'm learning and trying to open up one that has a 7/8" bore will not work because the wall thickness is not thick enough.
> At least none that I've found so far.Doesn't mean they don't exist though...


You can weld external sleeves on the wheels with 7/8 hub (to reinforce it) , then bore it to 1" and cut the "key" slot and that should do it.


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## pfn (Dec 24, 2010)

sodbuster said:


> Boy am I glad you chimed into this thread.Maybe we can figure this out together.
> 
> I haven't had a chance to try mine out in anything more than 1/2" so far, and then, only to try it real briefly to see how much of a bear it was going to be to turn in actual use once I got it back into good working order.So I'm not convinced just yet that I can't live with it the way it is.
> 
> ...


"Maybe we can figure this out together." I think so. 

I did go thru the parts explosion to the point that I had needed parts numbers but didn't check prices. So when I wrote the post above I was guessing at the cost. To save money someone suggested getting the wheels and tires off eBay. That seemed a good idea and I'm not certain that the differential needs to be replaced so the conversion cost may not be prohibitive.

Unfortunately I will be traveling for the next 2 or 3 weeks and will be without my computer (yeah!!!) and won't be able to contribute here until my return.

The conversion is a good summer project in any case.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> You can weld external sleeves on the wheels with 7/8 hub (to reinforce it) , then bore it to 1" and cut the "key" slot and that should do it.


Huh!
Good thinking!
That'd work fine if need be.

Thanks!


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

hsblowersfan said:


> You can weld external sleeves on the wheels with 7/8 hub (to reinforce it) , then bore it to 1" and cut the "key" slot and that should do it.


This way (I think) all you would need is the 2 modified wheels and 2 tires for the conversion and you will also have the option of going back to tracks whenever needed since you have not modified the machine at all. 

k:


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

That's the idea.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

Well I've got it all worked out on how to make the conversion,keep the differential lock and all for around $150 and be able to switch back to tracks if wanted in about 15 minutes.

Found a set of new wheels that I have to machine off some of the hub on a lathe that will then fit perfectly for $65 shipped to my door. Plus a pair of Carlisle 4.80x8 Xtrack tires for around $50 shipped from Summit Racing.

Figuring about $35-$45 for the machine shop to throw the wheels on a lathe to take off what I need from the hubs.
And voila!
Best of both worlds.

:yahoo:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Awesome...! Keep us posted and post pictures of the process and the finished blower conversion.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

Well I came in slightly over my estimated cost.

By $1.


Done with no exchange of any parts other than removing the tracks and 
replacing with the wheels/tires.

But there may be a caveat to that that I won't know for sure till I try it out running tomorrow so won't say just yet.

Wheels with shipping $78
Carlisle Xtrac 4.80x8 tires $53 shipped from Summit Racing
Machine shop cost $20

$151 altogether.

The Ariens brand name wheels and tires alone ( Inferior Snow Hog tires BTW)
are $85.99 each plus shipping from the cheapest online parts seller.

The only difference other than the longer shafts on the wheeled version is the $135 differential.That might POSSIBLY be geared differently.
That's the part I'll find out tomorrow.
The tracked version is built to move at almost half the speed of the wheeled version so as to not tear up the friction disc due to the much higher friction to ground ratio as compared to the wheeled version.

The shafts don't NEED to be longer for the conversion, but they would make for a little less close tolerance between the tires and the impeller housing.
See the pictures.That being said, there IS enough clearance. Roughly 1/4".
The one thing I have left to do is grind away one or two reliefs in the axle hubs weld attachment to allow the pin from the differential lock to be able to engage the wheel. Should take about 5-10 minutes with a dremel.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

Here's a couple more pics. Sorry for not turning them to be right side up.

BTW, I forgot to mention.

I am able to convert from one drive system to the other in about 15 minutes.
So if I know ahead of time that "Snowmageddon " is approaching I can change over and be geared up for it with the tracks.
That's why you still see the track adjustment bar still on the lower back of the machine.Not in the way of running wheeled, yet makes for that much less work if switching back to tracks.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

Forgot to mention.
The only machining needed was removing an inch of material from the inbound axle hub.
I had the machine shop do it in the lathe rather than me hacksaw it so the cut face would have no runout to possibly bind against the axle bearing.
If you take your time and are careful you could accomplish it with just a hacksaw and save the $20.
Me, I couldn't be bothered. The shop cut them in a matter of 5 minutes each and I was on my way.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

Ok, job is done and all was successful.
Wheel is notched on opposite sides of the hub to engage the differential lock and got a chance to take the machine for a spin.


Not 100% sure why just yet, but the machine drives quite a bit faster than it did with tracks.So I am very happy.
It might just be the rolling resistance of the tracks vs. the wheels since nothing else has changed.
Diameter of the wheels are the same as the tracks and I only changed the tracks to heels.No other mods.
It moves fast enough that you have to walk at a pretty quick pace to keep up with it. I also now know why on the wheeled version of the machine the drive pulley and belt are smaller.To slow the machine down a little.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*sodbuster*: I have been following your thread. "GoodOnYa'M8" for venturing into this mod and posting a build thread to share it with others. 

You didn't post pictures until after completion so I really didn't know what the machine you were modding really looked like. Seeing it now, especially with the differential gear box open, I am surprised at how similar (I would say identical) your Ariens Pro 28 track model is to my much older Ariens ST1032 model 924084. Especially the interior of the gear box and how close the front of your wheels are to the rear of the auger housing.

I am sure you have considered that you won't be able to use chains given the closeness of the tires to the impeller housing (even on my ST1032, the chains are scary close and must be tightly installed (by airing down the tires for installation) to avoid rubbing against the rear of the auger housing. My guess is that if you believe you need chains, you will just re-install your tracks.

Speaking of the tracks, if you have pictures and have the time, would you post some pre-mod pictures of the machine with tracks on it?

And finally, yours is an interesting thread. Would you mind updating it with your thoughts on how the machine works with tracks vs wheels and vice versa as you get more experience using it?


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

Thanks E350 !
Nice van BTW. 4x4? Hard to see in your avatar pic.

All I ever wanted was a ......
Lifted Quigley 7.3 L Powerstroke Conversion Van.

Instead I ended up with a Nissan 3500 passenger van that I absolutely hate.Piece of crap that it is.........


Sorry, didn't think to take pics beforehand.

I should have taken pics as I was dis-assembling it for others to see the quick way to do it but I really didn't know for sure till I was done if this would definitely work so....
Ah well maybe if the tracks have to go back on next season....

Actually 'till you said it I never even thought about chains and whether they'd fit or not. lol
I kinda doubt there's any way a set would be able to fit on there.

I bought the tires I bought mostly because many others on here have said they grip great without using chains and ride pretty smooth vs. say a Snow Hog. So would think under 12" snowfall I should be fine and if a snow over 12" should head my way I'd probably just switch to tracks anyway to be able to plow thru the driveway apron easier.


So far the tires make the machine act COMPLETELY different.
But I am just running on dry ground and like I said from the very beginning never really got a chance to run the tracks in snow.
I just know it's a real pain in the A$$ rolling it on dry ground not under power.


That being said, I can now roll the machine one handed with almost no effort and it turns liquid smooth with almost no effort as well .

One advantage of the narrowness of the tire mounting is a an ability to make a slightly tighter turn than if they were spaced wider.

The other thing I just thought of now is that you can't exactly pivot the bucket upwards more than the 4 or so inches with the track set up.
Whereas with tires you can.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*sodbuster*: From my signature at Sportsmobileforum.com:

2002 E350 ext.; 160K; 7.3L; 4R100 (w/4x4 deep pan & filter); 4x4 Salem Kroeger conv. w/2007 F250/F350 coil frnt axle (oppos. dual Bilstein press. shocks cured DW) diff chg from 3.55 to 3.73 (bad!); BW1356 t.c. (bad!); LT265/70R17/E Michelin LTX M/S2; Engel MT60 Combi Fridge-Freezer; 4 BP 380J pv panels; Auragen 5kw AC gen. in top alt. position; Webasto Dual-Top; Voyager top. There are some substantial things which I would have done differently based on what I know now and will have to redo. That said my wife and I have skied all over the Western United States and Southern B.C. with it. 

For the cat's meow of 4x4 vans check this out by Agile Off Road (BajaSportsmobile) four time Baja 1000 winner, four time Baja 500 winner. Solo'ed the Baja 1000 to LaPaz/Cabo twice:

http://agileoffroad.com/4x4-van-conversion/

I have had the Dana 44 TTB on both of my full size Broncos and would love the Dana 50 TTB long arm TTB on my van. 

Keep us updated on how your conversion works. And how about a picture, when and if you have time, of the left over/removed track parts? I really respect the hardiness of my Ariens ST1032, I know its strengths and weaknesses from using it, but I need a bullet proof/beater track machine to keep my Honda HS1132TA in good shape. So I am intrigued about maybe going the opposite way which you went on your Ariens...


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

sodbuster said:


> Not 100% sure why just yet, but the machine drives quite a bit faster than it did with tracks.So I am very happy.
> It might just be the rolling resistance of the tracks vs. the wheels since nothing else has changed.


The answer to this is that the tires and wheels are taking the pace of a much smaller in diameter sprocket (you have to compare the diameter of the inflated tire and compare it to the diameter of the center sprocket on the track system and you'll find the answer).
The perimeter of the tires is much biger than the tracks driving sprocket, therefore the tires will travel a much longer distance for every turn of the driving axle.


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

hsblowersfan said:


> The answer to this is that the tires and wheels are taking the pace of a much smaller in diameter sprocket (you have to compare the diameter of the inflated tire and compare it to the diameter of the center sprocket on the track system and you'll find the answer).
> The perimeter of the tires is much biger than the tracks driving sprocket, therefore the tires will travel a much longer distance for every turn of the driving axle.


Ahhhhhhhhhhh..
That makes perfect sense.

THANK YOU!

In your opinion, would you think I'll need to downsize the pulley and drive belt now as they do in the 926038 (wheeled version) to save wear and tear on the friction disc?


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

E350 said:


> *sodbuster*: From my signature at Sportsmobileforum.com:
> 
> 2002 E350 ext.; 160K; 7.3L; 4R100 (w/4x4 deep pan & filter); 4x4 Salem Kroeger conv. w/2007 F250/F350 coil frnt axle (oppos. dual Bilstein press. shocks cured DW) diff chg from 3.55 to 3.73 (bad!); BW1356 t.c. (bad!); LT265/70R17/E Michelin LTX M/S2; Engel MT60 Combi Fridge-Freezer; 4 BP 380J pv panels; Auragen 5kw AC gen. in top alt. position; Webasto Dual-Top; Voyager top. There are some substantial things which I would have done differently based on what I know now and will have to redo. That said my wife and I have skied all over the Western United States and Southern B.C. with it.
> 
> ...


Nice ride E350,I'm jealous.

I did check out Agile when I was hunting down a 4x4 and yup, they sure do a nice job.Unfortunately,they're all the way on the other side of the country from me for service when needed.
But beyond that the bigger problem was there's just not many 7.3 vans left out there and on the rare occasion you find one it's either thru the roof overpriced or gets snatched up within minutes of going out on the net.
Matter of fact I just sold off my '02 7.3 Excursion last week and I will probably regret that for a good many years...........

I'll be happy to snap some pics for you over the weekend of the track parts.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

sodbuster said:


> In your opinion, would you think I'll need to downsize the pulley and drive belt now as they do in the 926038 (wheeled version) to save wear and tear on the friction disc?


You could, but if it was me, I'll leave it alone until you try it in snow, if first speed is too fast than I will consider making changes (if there is space I'd make an extra slot between neutral and first for a "1/2" gear and you'll likely be fine).


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

As per request here's some pics of the factory track components that come with a tracked machine.

First pic shows everything except two flat washers that mount on the axle shafts outbound of the track plates, inboard of the track drive sprockets and the tracks themselves.I later re-used these washers between the wheel axle hubs and the axle bearings just so the hubs weren't riding right against the bearing inner races.Really not neccesary,but I thought that was a convenient place for them to be and not get lost when needing them for re-attaching the tracks.
Additionally there's a notched bar mounted on the back of the machine that is released via a cable handle mounted on the right handlebar which the rear cross member shown in the first pic rides through.This is to allow the machine to pivot on the axle axis so the bucket can either be lifted and locked raised for driving without the bucket dragging or to tilt it down to allow the driving tracks to force the auger housing down for deeper bite.

You can see the bar in my earlier pics of the completed wheeled machine.
I left the assy intact on the machine for quick change over.

Basically the whole track assy hangs from the axle shafts.
Track tension is adjusted via the two eye bolts seen on the rear cross member.
The left side track drive sprocket is held onto the axle via a slide on spring clip.
The right side is held on via the shaft lock assy that serves as the differential lock.

Dis-assembly/assembly from the machine is easily done.
Tip the machine onto the auger housing.

1.)Remove the two nuts from the outbound side of the right side track idlers that hold them to the crossmember shafts.You need a thin walled socket for this.
2.)Remove the differential lock assy from right side axle.
3.)Remove the three 7/16" carriage bolts and nuts attaching front cross member to the right track. plate.
4.)Remove the left side axle slide on clip.
5.) Remove 7/16" nuts on the track eyebolt adjusters.

Now with the tracks loose you can walk the right track and idlers/drive sprockets off their respective shafts.That just leaves the 1" i.d. spacers you see in the first pic that go between the track plates and the axle bearings.
Be mindful not to lose the key that's under the drive sprockets.
Once the right side is off, you can walk the left side complete with the crosmmeber shafts off the left drive axle and the rear cross member out from the pivot bar.This part takes some jiggling as the hole in the pivot bracket that the rear cross member slides through is a close fit.

That's it.Might sound like a lot but takes less than 10 minutes.

Mounting the wheels takes 2 minutes.
Slide washers onto the axles,slide on wheel/tire assy's, replace left clip,install right side axle/differential lock and you're rolling.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*sodbuster*: Thanks, for the extensive write up and pictures. To round out the discussion this is substantially your machine: Ariens Pro Track 926042? 









[_Interesting difference in design: _Tracks are parallel in Honda but triangular in Ariens. Honda, the drive sprocket is in contact with the ground (with track in between ground and sprocket). Ariens, drive sprocket does not touch the ground. Drive axle is higher on the Ariens than on the Honda. On the Ariens large diameter tires permit manufacturing/conversion from tracks to tires on same machine. I'd have to compare them closely, but I doubt converting a Honda track machine to wheels and vice versa would be as easy. But I will consider adding tracks to the Ariens ST1032 if a set of tracks ever show up at a good deal. Love my Honda HS1132, btw.]

Ok, back outside to take the rear differential off my wife's Dodge Dakota for delivery to Jaws Gear tomorrow morning...


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## sodbuster (Feb 24, 2016)

That's the one.
The tracks on the Ariens are triangular out of convenience to utilize the same frame with no mods as the wheeled version. Which would be the 926038.

If you wanted to do an inline track like the Honda you s either have to relocate the drive axle lower in the frame or go with a MUCH larger drive sprocket.
The Ariens has a larger impeller housing so it results in the machine sitting up higher than the Honda


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## matto (Nov 5, 2016)

Thanks for making this thread!

I'm a little confused after reading it though. If I buy the Hydro Pro 28 wheeled unit currently sold (926066) and install the track drive accessory (72602900) will it produce the identical machine to the tracked 28 unit (926067)? Will the balance of the machine be the same? And the top speeds?

If yes, I don't see why you can't go the reverse direction (from 926067 to 926066).


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## matto (Nov 5, 2016)

matto said:


> Thanks for making this thread!
> 
> I'm a little confused after reading it though. If I buy the Hydro Pro 28 wheeled unit currently sold (926066) and install the track drive accessory (72602900) will it produce the identical machine to the tracked 28 unit (926067)? Will the balance of the machine be the same? And the top speeds?
> 
> If yes, I don't see why you can't go the reverse direction (from 926067 to 926066).


FYI I contacted Ariens and they said that adding the track accessory for the recent model makes it identical to the track version. But they don't make a kit to go the other way. 

However I'd think you could buy the parts to go backwards. 

This makes me kind of wish I had gotten the wheels + track kit. It would have been the same price and I'd have had both options.


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## Pro-Track 28 (Sep 21, 2020)

sodbuster said:


> My first post here hoping for some help.
> 
> Has anyone attempted this??
> 
> ...


This may be a dead thread, but I just so happen to have the take-off parts from my wheel to track conversion from my 2016 Hydro-Pro 28.

Wanted a track but it was too late in the year so the dealer converted it. They have been sitting in my garage ever since. I love the track and have no plans to go back.

I would be interested in selling it.


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