# Ariens SnoTek 28" carb issue



## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

My SnowTek 28" snow blower (Ariens model 920403 SN 075000+) won't start. I summer-ized it in the spring, draining the fuel, etc. Upon inspection I noticed the primer line was cracked (the machine is only 1- 1/2 seasons old) so I replaced it. It started, ran for 1 second and stopped. I removed the carb and it looks very clean with no gumming. I resembled, pumped 4 times and again it ran for 1 sec. So next time I kept pumping it. That barely worked to keep it running. Long story short, I discovered if I put a long tube to replace the primer tube on the carburetor and kept a bit of air pressure on this, the engine starts and runs fine. As soon as I release the pressure, the engine dies. What could this be?

cheers


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the forum eclecicangler . You obviously know something about small engines if you tried pressurizing the carb bowl with air. Some of the small passages in the low speed jet section are clogged with dirt or varnish from unsatablized fuel. You blowing into the tube forced the fuel into the carb as opposed to the engine vacuum drawing it in. It would be best to thoroughly clean the carb and then add some Seafoam (engine cleaner) to the fuel tank . Just my opinion.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

BROTHER GRUNT always has a plan in hand for those carb problems. ALOHA to the forms..


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

Hey thanks Grunt. I realize I misspelled my username! It should have been EclecticAngler! Oh well.

Ok, that's what I thought. So, I removed the carb, removed the jet. Cleaned surface dirt and its's been in my ultrasonic cleaner at 60°C for 2 hours with 3 water changes. It looks like new now. I'll try to find some Seafoam.

Cheers,
Michael


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

Of course, my "urgency" is due to the big storm we're getting today and tomorrow - a Thanksgiving surprise.


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## SteelyTim (Nov 14, 2014)

Usually in a case like this, I'll shoot carb cleaner down through the primer port. This should in effect fill up the float bowl past the float close level and force gas out of the primer squirt hole. Might get a couple tablespoons full of gas out, just FYI. Usually that will effectively clean the circuit out.


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

Just for giggles, also check the gas flow out of the hose coming from the tank. I just had some weird running stuff with a friends machine and he I found that the fuel line had delaminated and collapsed on itself. From looking or squeezing the line you could never tell it. More than likely this coming from the rotten ethanol


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

Thanks guys. cdestuck, I did check that and fuel is flowing freely. Thanks for the idea though, it's always the simple thing you overlook!


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

Well, I still have a problem.

After disassembling the carb I ultrasonic cleaned it for 3 hrs at 60°C. I then blew out the passages and warm dried it at 50°C overnight. I noticed a thin layer of enamel on the float had dried (I did not ultrasound this part) and flaked off. I cleaned with mineral spirits, dried and then reassembled. I didn't have new gaskets but the carb is only 1-1/2 seasons old and the original bowl gasket looked fine. I also made sure the jet was clean and the emulsion tube was clean.

It started right up (electric start) and then immediately died. Long story short, I am experiencing the same symptoms, I need to keep pressure on the the prime tube to keep it running. So I am trying SteelyTim's suggestion now, I squirted carb cleaner into the primer port tube. I tried it once and immediately tested, same start-stop result. I am going to let the cleaner work for 15 minutes while I warm up and write this and try it again. 

I did verify that gas is flowing from the tank freely and I checked the fuel filter at the top of the tank, it was like new clean.


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

After 15 minutes I was able to start and keep it running without pressurizing the priming tube. As it warmed up I closed the choke down and it kept running - sounded pretty stable. After about 3 minutes I reached down to remove the extension tube from the primer port and just as soon as I pulled on that tube the engine died. I was able to restart again - with difficulty - and able to move the machine under it's own power to test. That was fine, again, attempting to remove the extension tube I placed on the primer port caused it to stall again. Now I can't get it started at all. Removed the plug, it was wet so I dried it. I hope my starter motor isn't blown. In my frustration I let it get overheated. Now it isn't working. I'm hoping there is a thermal cutoff in it and it will be ok when it cools down. Looks like I get to shovel a 100' long double wide driveway with 8" of heavy snow on it by hand so we can head to Thanksgiving Dinner!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Your engine appears to be a Stormforce made my LCT. Some of these engines have a low oil cut-off switch on them and will kill the ignition if the oil level is to low. If your engine does have the sensor, I would unplug it to eliminate it as the problem. If it does not have the sensor, I would put a spark checker in line and see if you are losing spark as the engine dies. It also wouldn't hurt to try a NEW spark plug. My snow blower had a faulty ignition switch that would kill the engine from the vibration.This is the LCT engine manual I found in case you do not have it.

http://lctusa.com/resources/PGH45163_Online_Service_Man_revD_101413.pdf


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

It is indeed a LCT Stormforce engine. 208cc I have the model # and serial and it is listed in the manual you linked to (thanks!)

I don't where to look to find the low oil cut-off if it has it. I also can't find the air filter on this motor.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

eclecicangler said:


> It is indeed a LCT Stormforce engine. 208cc I have the model # and serial and it is listed in the manual you linked to (thanks!)
> 
> I don't where to look to find the low oil cut-off if it has it. I also can't find the air filter on this motor.


Snowblower don't have air filters. The sensor would be on the side of the block somewhere, probably with 1 wire connected to it. So when the oil is low, it grounds out the ignition system. Make sure the oil is full. If its full, check for spark. if no spark, Disconnect the sensor wire and check again for spark. This will help verify whether the oil sensor is the problem.


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

The starter motor is fine! Now I must have flooded the motor, gasoline is actually sputtering out the exhaust port. I removed the spark plug and it is wet. What is the best way to unfold an engine? Leave the plug out to "air dry"?

I have Thanksgiving dinner plans to leave for now so I won't be able to work until I get back. I did check the oil and it is full. I'll check for spark (after I get the sputtered gas cleaned up!) later when I get back. Meanwhile, any recommendations for defrauding the engine?


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Here is a link that might be helpful concerning the low oil sensor.http://www.lausonpower.com/pdf/LCT%20Quick%20Reference%20Guide_small.pdf


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

Thanks Zavie, in searching that document, it looks like the low oil sensor is only used on summer engines.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Leave the spark plug out, the choke open and the throttle turned off, then use the electric start for short intervals to evacuate the excess gas in the cylinder. I would also try a new spark plug if available. Good luck and have a Happy Thanksgiving.


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

Thanks Grunt and all. I'll do as you recommend and head out to dinner. I might have a spare plug around. If not, I'll pick one up in the morning. Happy Thanksgiving!


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

put an ngk bpr6es in instead. those torch plugs are junk


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I found this thread concerning ignition switch problems. As I said earlier, possible problem with yours???

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/30129-another-issue-brand-new-ariens.html


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

Hmm, I didn't see anything at that link about ignition switches. I haven't tried it since coming home just a few minutes ago. I'm going to let it air out over night and try again in the morning. I've been able to start it by applying pressure to the prime tube so I suspect a fuel problem rather than ignition. I had it running for a few minutes today and it stopped when I attempted to remove the extended prime tube. That happened several times and is very suspect. What would cause that? If the prime tube is open ended does that equalize pressure with the atmosphere and prevent the engine from being able to pull fuel into the carb? Perhaps the prime bulb was leaky in addition to the tube running from it to the carb? That tube was actually cracked/split. I didn't check the prime bulb but will tomorrow. The machine is only 1 1/2 seasons old so I wouldn't expect the tube or bulb to fail so soon.


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## eclecicangler (Nov 27, 2014)

Ok, I'm all set now. I think the carb had a little gumming and after I cleaned that the temp had dropped. I ended up over priming and flooding the engine. This morning, I removed the carb, dried it with compressed air, removed the plug and turned over the engine so air cold flow through the valve-cylinder-plug hole and set it in the direct sun. It is 28°F but nice and sunny and the black engine cowling got very warm. After an hour I reassembled and it started without priming on the first push of the electric start button. I then blew my 120' double wide driveway that had 8-10" of very heavy snow. It bogged down in slow speed a few times but never stalled. Did a fantastic job actually. Best machine I've had, no other could have done that slush.

Thanks all and enjoy your weekend!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Glad to hear the machine is running again and congratulations on a job well done.


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