# HS928 auger won't spin



## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

Hello

I hit a paper while using my HS928 this morning and now auger won't spin and no shear bolts broke. The impeller and auger spin so I am thinking the drive shaft broke? Anyone has this happen on this model and how hard/expensive to fix?

Thanks

Mark


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Umm, perhaps you should clarify that post. Not trying to be a smart ass here...



> now auger won't spin





> The impeller and auger spin so I am thinking the drive shaft broke?


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

The impeller Will spin by hand but not under power of machine and when I spin the round impeller it spins the auger.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

OK, so with the engine running if you push the auger handle nothing happens. With the engine off and the spark plug wire disconnected if you spin the impeller by hand the auger will also turn?

This to me sounds like the belt broke or came off.

When you hit the paper did you hear anything snap or did you smell a burning rubber smell?

More importantly, when it got stuck did you hold the auger handle down after it was jammed or keep trying to engage the augers?

I am definitely thinking a belt issue which shouldn't be too bad to fix. You will need to get the belt cover off that is in front of the engine and have a look.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

Did you check the belts? Maybe you broke the impeller/auger belt. If the impeller spins at the same time as the auger (by hand) you haven't broken a shaft...


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

And if your shear bolts didn't break before "something else", I would suspect that your augers are "rust frozen/fused" to the shaft....


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

Shryp,

If the auger belt is broken, our OP may be in for a fairly cumbersome job. On the older Honda HS55, 70, and 80, you have to separate the auger housing from the tractor to replace the impeller/auger belt (real PIA). Don't know if the same holds true for the newer HS two stages...


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

Ok - here is the latest. I took off the plastic cover and the belt is not broken but looks worn. I adjuster the small pulley to get more pressure on the belt and it is maxed and when I start the engine and engage the clutch - it spins the big clutch on bottom but the impeller and auger don't spin. I noticed when I disengage the clutch I have to move the lever as doesn't want to full pull back. The impeller and auger will spin by hand and no breaker bolts are broken so I am thinking it needs a new belt as really stretched? I know there is no way in **** I can replace the belt myself. I have had it for 12 years and need to get new belts and new auger bearingss and have it checked out. Not sure what it will cost hopefully $300 bucks or less and has been a great machine. Darn papers in the driveway - my fault.

Any ideas based on the updated description of what I found?

Thanks a million 

Mark


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## Thump_rrr (Dec 22, 2013)

Lobsterbake said:


> Ok - here is the latest. I took off the plastic cover and the belt is not broken but looks worn. I adjuster the small pulley to get more pressure on the belt and it is maxed and when I start the engine and engage the clutch - it spins the big clutch on bottom but the impeller and auger don't spin. I noticed when I disengage the clutch I have to move the lever as doesn't want to full pull back. The impeller and auger will spin by hand and no breaker bolts are broken so I am thinking it needs a new belt as really stretched? I know there is no way in **** I can replace the belt myself. I have had it for 12 years and need to get new belts and new auger bearingss and have it checked out. Not sure what it will cost hopefully $300 bucks or less and has been a great machine. Darn papers in the driveway - my fault.
> 
> Any ideas based on the updated description of what I found?
> 
> ...


Are you sure the rear impeller bolt isn't broken?
That would be bolt #5 in the drawing below.
If the big pulley spins when you push down the auger lever the only 2 things it can be is either the #5 shear bolt or the shaft on the pulley snapped which I doubt very much.
I would pull the #5 bolt out to confirm
It isn't snapped off inside.

If it hasn't been serviced in 12 years I fear that the augers may be seized to the shaft of the auger gear.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

THump - The thing is, if the impeller shear is broken, when the clutch is engaged the augers "should" still turn. The OP is saying that when the clutch handle is depressed, neither the impeller or augers spin...,this is correct Lobster? 

If this is the case (and the belt isn't snapped), the condition can only be caused by a few things:

1) A really shot auger belt which can't grab the pulley and engage.
2) A broken keyway on the auger/impeller pulley that is just causing the pulley to spin free on the shaft.

To Lobster - based on your statement that you are not going to attempt a belt change on your own, I would say it's time to take your machine to the doctor...


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## sr71 (Mar 25, 2013)

The fact that none of the 3 shear pins broke (one of them should have broke for sure) probably means that you have an 2nd underlying issue ...siezed auger(s). 
•	If you remove the auger shear bolts / impeller shear bolt will the augers / impeller spin on the respective shaft? 

Just thinking out loud.....If you can turn either the auger by hand and this turns the impeller or turn the impeller by hand and this turns the auger you have a connection through the transfer case...ie... shear pins should be good. 

To be sure when you say that you maxed the belt pressure: 
•	is the tension pulley at the end of stroke of the slot that it rides in?
•	are you sure you tightened the pulley such that it has not moved? 

Since the symptom is no impeller or auger movement with clutch engaged, the problem would seem to be upstream where you’re looking. With the clutch lever engaged…..and assuming you are at the max belt tension it sounds like a stretched belt but ...I don't think a newspaper jam (even if it didn’t break a shear bolt) would stretch a belt. Considering the clutch lever is not returning when you release it….you may have damaged the clutch cable. Take it in for service - sounds like a challenge. 

Whatever it is…please keep us updated. Go Luck


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

I checked and the impeller bolt snapped and the head came off and that is all I could get to come off. There must be the rest of the bolt in the hole as if I spin the auger by hand the impeller also spins. I am afraid I might of damaged the clutch? I see big $$$ coming to fix ugggg. I will just replace if have to put more than $500 into.


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## Thump_rrr (Dec 22, 2013)

Lobsterbake said:


> I checked and the impeller bolt snapped and the head came off and that is all I could get to come off. There must be the rest of the bolt in the hole as if I spin the auger by hand the impeller also spins. I am afraid I might of damaged the clutch? I see big $$$ coming to fix ugggg. I will just replace if have to put more than $500 into.


The fact that they both spin together is a good sign.
It means that nothing else is damaged. 
You need to slowly turn the auger to line up the impeller bolt holes and then drive out the broken bolt. It must have sheared in 3 pieces.

On one end the auger turns the impeller which means the auger gear box isn't broken.
On the other end you said that the big pulley spins when the auger is engaged which means there is nothing wrong on that end unless the shaft of the big pulley snapped.
Even if the shaft of the big pulley snapped it only costs $60.00 + $10.00 for the auger bearing.

Do you have a place to work indoors and are you the least bit mechanically competent?
We can walk you through removing the augers and impeller in less than 10 minutes.
It can also be done outside quite easily.


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

I am semi mechanical. I think I am going to have dealer go through and fix and replace bearings, belts and adjust everything as I have done nothing to in 12 yrs except oil so it needs some tlc 

Hopefully dealer won't turn a $200 job into a $500 one

Thanks everyone!!


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## Thump_rrr (Dec 22, 2013)

Lobsterbake said:


> I am semi mechanical. I think I am going to have dealer go through and fix and replace bearings, belts and adjust everything as I have done nothing to in 12 yrs except oil so it needs some tlc
> 
> Hopefully dealer won't turn a $200 job into a $500 one
> 
> Thanks everyone!!


If nothing has been done in 12 years then there is a good chance that the augers are seized to the auger gearbox.

My suggestion is to try tackling a bit of the job yourself to avoid a costly repair bill.
I would try removing the auger assembly from the machine and soaking the augers in Kroil or some other rust inhibiter for a day or 2 to try and free the augers.

Take a few minutes and try getting te shear bolt replaced.
It may get you through the winter when you can take more time to attack everything.
The auger bearings are $6.00 each and the impeller bearing $10.00.
If everything is freed up a pro looking over the machine and replacing and adjusting the belts won't cost you more than a couple hundred.
The augers are about $280.00 each so I would try getting everything apart myself first.

Let us know if you need some help.
I can get mine apart in less than 30 minutes if you need to see how everything comes together.


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

I really appreciate the help - I will see if I can figure out how to get auger apart


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

The augers do spin on the shaft - at least one does as can't get cotter pin out of the other but would assume it's ok since the first one is. I don't have an impeller bolt and can't get the pieces left out.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Let us know how it comes out $$$


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## Thump_rrr (Dec 22, 2013)

Lobsterbake said:


> The augers do spin on the shaft - at least one does as can't get cotter pin out of the other but would assume it's ok since the first one is. I don't have an impeller bolt and can't get the pieces left out.


If you take the 4 bolts out of each side of the auger + the 2 ager gearbox support bolts (if you have an auger gearbox support) you should be able to remove the augers as an assembly if bolt #5 is sheared in 2 places.
Remove the 4 bolts from each side of the augers using 10mm and 12mm sockets.


Remove the shear bolt which we assume is sheared off.


Pull on the assembly once removing the 2 auger gearbox support bolts.


This is what the blower shear bolt should look like.


You should then be able to remove the rest of the shear pin which is stuck in the shaft.
Once it is this far apart you can remove the augers off the gearbox and put a coat of never seize on the shaft.
I coat everything in never seize including the auger bearings.
The part number for the auger bearings is 6203RS from any bearing supply house.

With the auger removed it is normal to have slop fore and aft in the blower drive shaft coming through the housing.


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

Is it not safe to lean my snow blower back on handles? I smelled gas and then put it in the right position and cord didn't want to pull and I thought OMG I hydro locked - I got it started and exhaust was white but now is running fine. Wonder if I shut fuel valve off and ran out of gas if that would be safe to put in that position as so much easier to work on. Thoughts? I guess I need to change oil


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## Thump_rrr (Dec 22, 2013)

Lobsterbake said:


> Is it not safe to lean my snow blower back on handles? I smelled gas and then put it in the right position and cord didn't want to pull and I thought OMG I hydro locked - I got it started and exhaust was white but now is running fine. Wonder if I shut fuel valve off and ran out of gas if that would be safe to put in that position as so much easier to work on. Thoughts? I guess I need to change oil


I personally don't like doing that unless I drain both oil and fuel.
There is a drain valve to drain all the fuel if you look in the manual.
You can find the manuals in the sticky at the top of the honda section of the forum.

Mine is a track drive and hard to stand on end so I do all my work in the normal position.

I posted the pictures above in post #19.


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

Your awesome! Thank you


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## Thump_rrr (Dec 22, 2013)

Lobsterbake said:


> Your awesome! Thank you


No problem. It really is a 10 minute job when you're in a heated garage.
I'm just hoping for some real snow to get some use out of this new to me blower.

Keep us updated on the situation I'm really interested to see if it's only a broken shear bolt which I'm 95% sure it is.

If you have the original tool kit that came with your blower tucked away somewhere it should have a spare shear bolt in it.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

WOW Thump_rrr you really went above and beyond to help the OP. I took my air cleaner cover off today to show a poster something. You pulled your entire auger assembly out...

Props to you brother. You get the good Samaritan award today!!!


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## Thump_rrr (Dec 22, 2013)

Rockproof said:


> WOW Thump_rrr you really went above and beyond to help the OP. I took my air cleaner cover off today to show a poster something. You pulled your entire auger assembly out...
> 
> Props to you brother. You get the good Samaritan award today!!!


I'm in the HVAC industry and know that this time of the year blower repair shops may sometimes take a week or 2 before they can get to your machine.
When they do they may charge you a fortune for something you can do yourself in minutes.

If you can change your oil you can maintain your auger.


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## Lobsterbake (Jan 5, 2014)

Does anyone have the Honda part number for the auger shear bolts? Called two dealers and they couldn't tell me. HS928. Need bolt and nut part number. I think the qty is two on machine at a time? Thanks


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## Cuvner (Jan 5, 2014)

Hi Thump & Rockproof, I also want to thank you and Lobsterbake too! I have the EXACT same issue with my HS928. Just had a snowstorm in NJ and my augers & 2nd stage blower stopped in the middle of my job. I think I hit a rock. Had the exact same symptoms and did the same as Lobsterbake...checked & tightened the belt...but no luck. Once I cleared out all the ice & snow I also noticed the blower shear pin was gone at both ends. I'm curious to know how Lobsterbake makes out....but I'm going to try to pull out the auger assembly myself using Thump's images & directions. Then hopefully I can replace the blower pin easily. If that doesn't do it, then I guess it's a problem with the pulley wheel connection to the actual shaft....and that's a bit beyond my mechanical knowledge to work on! If I can save a little $ by doing some repairs myself...that's great....plus I'm sure my local dealer is swamped with repair work right now.

Don't know if this is dumb luck I found this forum & thread....or if this is a common issue with these snowblowers...but again...I thank you all.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Cuvner said:


> Don't know if this is dumb luck I found this forum & thread....or if this is a common issue with these snowblowers...but again...I thank you all.


I vote for dumb luck, because this is the first I have heard of it. I see shear pins on augers of all makes of snow blowers often, but never that pin back by the impeller like this on Hondas.


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## Thump_rrr (Dec 22, 2013)

(1) Blower Shear Bolt 90102-732-010. (Honda Code 1533355)
(3) Nut Self-Lock (6mm) 90114-SA0-000 (Honda Code 1410182)
(2) Auger Shear Bolt 92101-06016-0A (Honda Code 2479590)

Then there are the 2 shear pins close to the auger gearbox.
(2) Auger Shear Pin (7mm x 40mm) 90757-767-000 (Honda Code 4914982)
(2) Washer, Plain (7mm) 90501-KV6-670 (Honda Code 
3579117)
(2) 94201-30450 Pin, Split (3.0x45) (Honda Code 0058453) 
Split pin (cotter pin) can be substituted with a 3/32"x 1.5" cotter pin

There is also the bolt and nut that joins the blower to the auger gearbox.

(1) Blower Bolt 95701-08035-00 (Honda Code 2724029)
(1) Blower Nut 90309-428-731 (Honda Code 1001197)


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The white smoke might have been engine oil. They will sometimes seep oil into the cylinder when leaned too far forward, backward or side to side. Each engine design is a little different.
I'd shut off the fuel and run it out before I tipped it in either direction. My craftsman will leak if I put her up on the auger if I don't before I tip her.
For all the yanking people do on the handles when the blower gets stuck in some snow the handles can easily take the weight safely of being tipped back. Just best to block it with something under the auger as I know the balance on mine doesn't take much to have it come down on my hand !!


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## mcmars (Feb 6, 2014)

*great write up, I have same broken rear auger shear pin*

Thanks Mr thumper for such a nice write up w pictures, schematics, and part numbers. I am going to try to press out the frozen pin reminants w a c clamp, pin and socket. But if that fails, I will remove the auger assembly as in your decription. I laid the unit back on the handles and forgot to shut off the fuel so will do the oil change it was in need of anyway. Should I do the oil change twice to make sure to flush out the gas from the crankcase? Hate to do any damage to the cylinders. Great forum, thx


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

With the gas in the oil it will thin it but you could always do the repairs and just start the engine and let it idle to warm up a little. That would mix the gas with the oil when the engine isn't under any load and it would make for a more complete drain of oil and gas warmed up.


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