# New ST 227P some questions, some issues



## ScopeEye

I'm thinking about returning it.
Hello I just took delivery of new Husqvarna ST 227P (961930097 02)

First thought awesome machine, looks great, assembled easy...
But then....
Some issues

1st the oil level shipped at bare minimum on the stick..
Should I add a little?
The Engine manual states 20oz capacities, one would assume the factory added the correct amount. 
If I keep the machine I guess I'll drain and fill with 20oz and see...

2nd get it started all good till I put it in reverse 
Reverse is pretty much useless, if it was any slower I'd be going forward
I wish there was a way to speed it up... Is there?
Forward speed's no problem it will go way faster than I'll ever want
Top speed I'm running...

3rd I'm thinking I'll buy some extra belts
I look online for belts, funny everywhere I look doesn't recognize my model # or simple doesn't offer any parts being available WTF...
I did finally find some belts after calling sears parts direct both belts shipped will run $35 and change shipped.

During my search for belts I discovered Lot's of folks having issues with Belts on brand new machines...

I know I can buy V belts locally cheap if I have the size...
Seems like Snowblower belts sizes are Top Secret
I know I can take a belt off and measure it, maybe someone around here already has?

Does anyone know the actual size for both belts Drive and Auger??

Thanks



_________________________________________________
Edit:
Found Impeller belts OEM # and size 
Husqvarna OEM #581-832401 (size .4L X 35.4 / 90 CM )
Drive belt OEM 584216102 (size .4L x 38.19)
(measured width of my actual belt's at 1/2" wide)


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## mobiledynamics

AFAIK, lowes has the belts Husq. branded at $20 or $25. Both drive and Auger.

FWIW, the oil on my 300 series was at the low mark. I ended up adding about 4-5 oz to reach the ~high fill~ oil mark on mine.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Since it's brand new it should have a section in the owners manual on parts and it should at least list the Husky part number. If you can post that I can make sure I'm crossing it over correctly.
If you drop the "02" off the end of your model number it does pull up on the different parts sites.

Poulan 961940007 Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com

Traction belt 532419744 crosses to AYP _419744_ 1/2" x 34.5"

Auger belt 532408007 crosses to AYP 408007 5/8" x 38"


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## Kiss4aFrog

Forgot the reverse question. There is a way to adjust the whole transmission so the forward speeds are a little slower and the reverse is a little quicker but it's not much. They just aren't designed to go very fast in reverse to take into account not running over their operator !!

Here are some videos on the topic. https://www.google.com/#q=donyboy73+adjust+transmission

You want to adjust it so that first just barely crawls and that will push reverse out as much as possible on the opposite side of the driving plate making it a bit faster.


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## Zavie

There is way to adjust the speed via the cable on the speed control. Not sure which way you need to go to get more reverse speed. You could either loosen or tighten the cable as needed and see what difference it makes. The reverse speed should be able to be adjusted. If you like the rest of the machine and cannot adjust it yourself I'd contact your nearest Husqvarna service center.


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## detdrbuzzard

being a new machine I wouldn't be doing much except calling the store where you purchased it from after all its under warrenty


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## ScopeEye

Thanks.... to all you who have replied to my thread

I have found some info on my belts
I'll post it incase someone finds this thread asking the same

The Impeller belt:
Lowes web parts ( found on picture of belt) Husqvarna OEM #581-832401 size listed as 35.4" / 90 CM (this OEM# matches the # on my machines Impeller belt)
Also OEM #581832401 from part Diagram that matches my factory model #ST 227P - 96193009702 (2015-05) at bakerspower.com 

The Drive belt OEM #584216102 from bakerspower.com
So far I haven't found the actual size measurements for the Drive belt

I measured the width of both belt's on my machine at 1/2" wide

These #'s are from my machines actual belt's
Note the drive belt # is different than above info
Impeller belt HCOP 581832401 
28 15
Drive belt HCOP 58421802 
19 15


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## ScopeEye

I'll look into adjusting cable's to maybe speed up reverse 

If it turns out to be a cable thing I'll probably keep the machine


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## dr bob

New member with a new ST 227P (last Thursday...), and some related thoughts and observations:

Oil level: Mine too came with minimum oil level. I added some to get to the full marks before starting the engine. It didn't take more than a few ounces. After that, I started the engine and let it run free (no load) for about ten minutes. This break-in operation is recommended for many engines, but for some reason there's no mention at all of break-in operation in either the snowblower or the supplemental engine manuals. Following that litle run, I checked the oil after a few minutes, and found it just below the full mark. Added another ounce or so to bring it back to 'full'. Fortuitously, we had some nice soggy snow yesterday to try out the new machine. Four driveways and a couple hours later, I checked the oil and found it slightly below the full mark. I drained it and filled with fresh Mobil-1, to get any break-in or leftover manufacturing particles and debris out of the system.

Background that may or may not apply: Many engine manufacturers give their products a short run on propane as part of the QC process. Usually that includes a dyno of some kind so they can verify that the engine makes rated power. To do that run, they put in enough oil to protect the engine. They of course see no reason to give you bunus oil beyond what's needed for the test. Our Operating Manuals came with pretty specific instructions to check the oil, which we have done. We choose to add oil to bring the level to the top of the permissble range when we find it at minimum allowable level. But it is in fact at an allowable level. Several decades ago now, GM dealers sued the factory because every new car they received for delivery was low on engine oil and transmission fluid. The factory saved millions by shorting the fluids, knowing that the dealers would make up the shortfall out of their own pockets. The dealers claimed that they deserved compensation for the fluids, plus the cost of putting it in. When you think about how many cars and hours were involved, it's a big number of dollars. How many engines do you think LCT builds in a typical production day? Multiplied by four ounces, carry the six...


On the slow reverse: Seems to me that 'reverse' is an add-on almost, something that would be used to help back out of a snowdrift that you might find yourself stuck in. So the crawler speed is about right. Want to back up faster? Try squeezing both 'steering' handles at the same time and pulling on the handles. The steering handles release the drive to the wheels selectively for steering. Squeeze both and the drive is disconnected from both. The macine is very easy to pull backwards when you do that.

The Belts: Thanks for the info on the belts and sources. Those are on my immediate purchase list for the spares box.


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## SAVAGE420

Go grab one from the dealer you bought it from. 
Probably defective. I've snapped 1 belt in 25 years in 2 machines chuckin snow.


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## mobiledynamics

The Oil level I suspect is Husky filling to manu. specs. However, the drain extension takes up some oil volume.....so possibly it's showing on the low mark hash due to that. JUST a guesstimate on my part.


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## Padraig

I have had zero problems with my st227.

Padraig


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## dr bob

Padraig said:


> I have had zero problems with my st227.
> 
> Padraig


 
:iagree:My experience is the same. Absolutely no regrets about choosing this model.

I have some thoughts on the worn skid shoes and the subsequent worn scraper blade, but mine has also been used by a neighbor on his "concrete pads with [sunken] brick ribbon dividers" driveway several times this season. I ended up making extended plastic skids that help some, but not completely. I'm working on a design improvement that may help keep the scraper from crashing into every uneven joint edge on his driveway.

I just flipped the scraper blade around to start its second life. Blades are <$10 to replace, no worry. The spares bin now has replacement belts, scraper blades, shear-pins/bolts, new shoes, and few sets of my own extended plastic shoes. 

So no more snow and no risk of any of that being needed of course. :icon-hgtg:

-----

Mine gets neighborhood driveway duty, so it sees a few 'extra' hours of use each deserving snowfall.

Bottom line is that the wear this first season is pretty much user-induced, wth the possible exception of the skid shoes. The little Hobbs meter I installed is showing almost 16 engine hours so far, to keep all this in perspective.

At the end of the "serious-snow" season I may pull the transmission & belt covers off and clean/inspect everything before pickling and bagging it for off-season hibernation.


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## dr bob

Some pre-season follow-up:

-- I pulled the belt cover off for a look at the belts, and found both belts in pretty much as-new condition. Had I not found and stocked spares, of course the originals would be near death if not already expired.

-- The off-season storage had it under a nylon cover (Amazon accessory) that did a nice job of keeping it all but dust-free as it hunkers in the corner of the garage workbay. A blast of compressed air, and it looks showroom fresh.

-- Gas was drained and carb run completely out prior to storage. A few squirts of ATF went in the spark plug hole and the plug is back in finger-loose. I'll probably go fill the fuel can in the next week or two and maybe a test run. Before that, plug will be out for a few hand-pull spins to clear any remaining oil in the cylinder.

-- Oil was replaced after last season so that's good to go.

-- I invested big in one of those smaller Harbor Freight furniture dollies, the one you can get for under $10 on sale. It sits ever so nicely under the middle of the machine, making it almost effortless moving it around when needed. Like most H-F pieces, the wheels needed some grease in the pivot bearings and a squirt of lithium grease in the axles to get things "just right".

-- The thrower barrel is going to need a little paint touch-up at the end of the winter coming up. Looks like it will be easiest to just pul the two impellors and go after that with a brush and some paint. Film at 11 when it happens.

Otherwise... Cooler evenings hint at the winter around the corner. So far, going into its second winter, we are very happy with this machine.


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## stromr

*screen shot of service bulletin..*

bulletin number B1500013 

I have a 2015 model ST327P and it has all been changed, belt guides and idlers look nothing like yours do.
This service bulletin is available online and I would think dealers would have it.


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## dr bob

According to the calendar, snow is coming soon. Meanwhile, weather was high 60ºF, overnight low about 40ºF. Both about 10-12 degrees above "average". But I got the itch, so pulled the machine from it's storage spot, uncovered it, and blew a little dust off. Pulled a couple turns on the rope with the spark plug out to clear any remaining ATF left from last spring's pre-store prep. Then reinstalled the plug. Add fresh Sta-Bil-treated fuel to the tank, and follow the pre-start drill with the primer and fuel valve on. Pull once gently on the starter cord just looking for compression towards TDC... the darn thing started right up. I wasn't even trying. Call that a good sign! Shut off the fuel and let it run out at idle. After it cooled off, topped the tank up, cover back on.

Bring on winter!


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## Hanky

I understand the belt issue was for the 2014 models. I did use a ST 224 P last year for about 10 + hrs. and I liked the machine, yes reverse is slow I usually just used the steering clutches to pull the blower back words usually I just pulled it back 5 or 6 ft not a issue for me. I had more problems with my Toro the first few months than I had with the Husky, and I paid $800.xx more for it. Just changed oil last week in the Husky and it does not hold much careful so you do not over fill. 

I guess it is your choice as to what you will do but I am impressed with the Husky that I used last winter and will use this winter also. I love my Toro but I think for myself if I had to buy a new blower I would be looking at a Husky. My dealer used to sell Toro and now Husky so they set up both machines .


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE

For the money you can't beat the top Husqvarna models. If money is not an issue, then Honda top models are the way to go. It always good to wait a year before buying newly released models. Let the early adopters find the bugs and let the manufacturers work out the kinks.


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## cjoc

ScopeEye said:


> I'm thinking about returning it.
> Hello I just took delivery of new Husqvarna ST 227P (961930097 02)
> 
> First thought awesome machine, looks great, assembled easy...
> But then....
> Some issues
> 
> 1st the oil level shipped at bare minimum on the stick..
> Should I add a little?
> The Engine manual states 20oz capacities, one would assume the factory added the correct amount.
> If I keep the machine I guess I'll drain and fill with 20oz and see...
> 
> 2nd get it started all good till I put it in reverse
> Reverse is pretty much useless, if it was any slower I'd be going forward
> I wish there was a way to speed it up... Is there?
> Forward speed's no problem it will go way faster than I'll ever want
> Top speed I'm running...
> 
> 3rd I'm thinking I'll buy some extra belts
> I look online for belts, funny everywhere I look doesn't recognize my model # or simple doesn't offer any parts being available ***...
> I did finally find some belts after calling sears parts direct both belts shipped will run $35 and change shipped.
> 
> During my search for belts I discovered Lot's of folks having issues with Belts on brand new machines...
> 
> I know I can buy V belts locally cheap if I have the size...
> Seems like Snowblower belts sizes are Top Secret
> I know I can take a belt off and measure it, maybe someone around here already has?
> 
> Does anyone know the actual size for both belts Drive and Auger??
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________
> Edit:
> Found Impeller belts OEM # and size
> Husqvarna OEM #581-832401 (size .4L X 35.4 / 90 CM )
> Drive belt OEM 584216102 (size .4L x 38.19)
> (measured width of my actual belt's at 1/2" wide)


I used my Husqvarna 10530SBE recently and it worked fine. Tried to start it today and the engine will not
turnover with the electric start. I tried to start it with the recoil starter but it would not turnover with that either.
What can I do?


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## Fredartic

Husky looks very nice and seems built tough. I'm looking for a new snowblower, my cub cadet needs some repairs but I don't have time to do it now and paying for it at this time will probably cost a lot and it will not resolve my immediate problem because here it is snowing everyday almost... I need one now but I want to make my decision after doing my research. Thank you for more advice on this model that I'm looking for.


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## Hanky

Fredartic said:


> Husky looks very nice and seems built tough. I'm looking for a new snowblower, my cub cadet needs some repairs but I don't have time to do it now and paying for it at this time will probably cost a lot and it will not resolve my immediate problem because here it is snowing everyday almost... I need one now but I want to make my decision after doing my research. Thank you for more advice on this model that I'm looking for.


A friend just bought a ST 227P has about 6 hrs on it and loves it , I have used a ST 224P for a dozen hrs last year and this year no problems at all.:3tens:


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## dr bob

*ST227P After a Year of Use.*

A mid-season update:

I'm putting the second scraper bar on this week. The factory plastic shoes, and the larger plastic ones I med for it, are wearing pretty fast with all the use the machine has gotten so far. The drive system every once in a while does a little stutter on engagement, a possible sign of things to come. So friction disks and rubber pieces will be acquired soon for that service. I will be actively looking for a metal or metal-faced skid shoe option too.

The rest: Machine has been flawless except for the wear items. Starts easily on the first pull of the cord. This is its second snow season and has about 30 hrs on the Hobbs so far. So far so good. Were I to do it again, knowing what I know now, I'd be looking hard at the ST330 to get the hydrostatic drive instead of the friction wheels. For twice what we paid for the one we have. Looks like consumable parts for the drive section are around $50 or so, spring project list started. Belts are still original with no appreciable wear showing last time I inspected (last spring).


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## dr bob

Update from yesterday's posting:

The stuttering in the drive was solved with a very small cable adjustment. No hints of any stuttering after adding about 3/4 turn of tension on the drive engagement cable. I still have a couple drive pieces on my shopping list for the spares bin. At least a rubber drive ring 'tire' and the mating drive pulley with friction face. The rest of the pieces look good. I added some lubrication where the pieces slide on the shaft, and a tiny bit on the direction/speed adjustment arm/cam.

Installed a new scraper bar this morning, and decided to install the old (now narrow...) blade under the new one, with the auger housing lip sandwiched between. There's a little distortion on that bottom lip where it crashed into something. Adding the now-narrow old blade there will keep things straighter plus prevent any further contact and damage. New bolts and nuts too.

So all is good again. It's snowing still, looking for another 6" by 4pm. Supposed to continue with few breaks to the weekend. More workout for the machine, less shoveling for Bob.


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## NHsnow

I have the same snowblower and have loved it. Do you know of any resources (YouTube, online references) for disassembly for maintenance?
Thanks!


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## dr bob

NHsnow said:


> I have the same snowblower and have loved it. Do you know of any resources (YouTube, online references) for disassembly for maintenance?
> Thanks!


I found a copy of the parts and service manuals someplace online. I'm not at home so don't have the links handy. I'll say that the "service" manaul for the machine itself is OK but not great. It shows common stuff including hints on belt changes and all, how to "split" the machine to separate the auger from the traction drive part, etc. The engine has its own manual, with a copy in the crate with the tool when new. A bit of google and a dose of imagination will get the books for you.

---

I've only replaced skid shoes and the scraper bar so far. The belt cover comes off for easy top access for belt inspections. The lower rear cover under the engine comes off with four screws, and you can do a pretty full inspection with just those off. Belts look fine after a :good" snow season so far. To actually swap a belt though, the drive unit hinges to the auger section if you need to change belts. You can undoubtedly find a YeauTooob thread that shows how that works.


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## NHsnow

Thanks! Very helpful!


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## skutflut

dr bob said:


> ---
> 
> I've only replaced skid shoes and the scraper bar so far. .


I have a Husqvarna ST227 in Craftsman clothing. I put Armorskids on it this year and they are very good. They extend quite a bit further forward than the stock skids, and lift the bucket sooner getting over those bumps in the road.


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## dr bob

skutflut said:


> I have a Husqvarna ST227 in Craftsman clothing. I put Armorskids on it this year and they are very good. They extend quite a bit further forward than the stock skids, and lift the bucket sooner getting over those bumps in the road.


Thanks. I've looked at those and thought hard about adding them, but have yet to pull the trigger. I made a dozen Delrin skids last year, about 8" long and 3/4" thick, and have been slowly going through the first faces on the first set I installed. They are close to getting flipped over, with some serious use so far this season (now at about 35 new engine hours so far this snow season). We have a pavingstone driveway with sculpted top surface, so the Delrin is probably safer than the metal Armorskids. At least that's my thinking. Plus all the effort in those spares I made would go to waste...

Cleaned five driveways plus the circle and some of the street this morning. About three inches of very dry powder. I shoveled most of it into rows, then let the machine do the heavy lifting. Finished with the push broom. Looked pretty darn pristine until it started to snow again. Record snow season already I understand.

I had a home in Mammoth Lakes in the Sierras. Our climate here in the middle of Oregon is about the same, just twenty fewer feet of snow to manage, on average. This is turning into a far-from-average snow year at both places.


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## Louis Lazzerini

My ST227P is stuck in reverse. The problem is in the transmission I think. The cables seem to be fine. I removed the belt cover but there is nothing to see. I disconnected the shift cable and moved the shift arm manually. Still in reverse no matter where the arm stops. Any ideas before I take it to the shop???


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## Gerry380

I bought a New ST227 snow blower last winter. my wife used it to snow blow the end of drive way and hit some big rocks. instead of shear bolts shearing like designed to, it bent the impeller to the point it is hitting bolts as it spins. seeing the original shear bolts never broke is this returnable to Lowes and covered by warrantee. It sounds like a manufactures defect.
Thanks.


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## dr bob

Worth a try, but that kind of "abuse" may or may not be covered. In my limited experience, Lowes is barely equipped to "assemble" and sell the machines. There is no repair capability at least at the stores I've been in. You may decide it's cheaper/easier to do a little re-bending on the impeller ribbons to allow them to clear the bolts they are hitting. Look also to verify that the scraper and the bottom of the bucket aren't bent up. The adjustments on the plastic shoes need to maintain the scraper up off the floor by at least 1/8" or so when measured from the garage floor. Else the scraper drags and distorts from every little thing it hits. Those plastic shoes do wear in use as they contact the driveway as you use the machine. They need to be regularly checked and adjusted to compensate for the wear. I use pait stirring sticks to set the clearance, based on guidance from folks here in the forum.

--- 

I've replaced one shear pin in three snow seasons, that time thanks to a large but hidden chunk of ice that the plow guys thoughtfully stashed in the street in front of the house. I don't know the angle of the attack on the chunk, whether it was a head-on collision or I just got next to it with the impeller. Regardless, the bolt did exactly what I expect it to do when I bump an immovable object. It lives to fight another day anyway.

Good luck, and report back your results.


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## 1132le

Gerry380 said:


> I bought a New ST227 snow blower last winter. my wife used it to snow blow the end of drive way and hit some big rocks. instead of shear bolts shearing like designed to, it bent the impeller to the point it is hitting bolts as it spins. seeing the original shear bolts never broke is this returnable to Lowes and covered by warrantee. It sounds like a manufactures defect.
> Thanks.


 no it not sheeh
operator error


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## kenmand

Louis Lazzerini said:


> My ST227P is stuck in reverse. The problem is in the transmission I think. The cables seem to be fine. I removed the belt cover but there is nothing to see. I disconnected the shift cable and moved the shift arm manually. Still in reverse no matter where the arm stops. Any ideas before I take it to the shop???



The friction wheel bearing (#18) may have popped out of the shift arm(#8). Sometimes that happens if the E-ring (#13) pops out off the hex shaft(#26).


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