# New Tec carb or Predator?



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Guys I need opinions,

I got my ST824 working awesome but the engine has been having hiccups.

I typically feel I'm good with carbs but this one has been nothing but problems even before the machine was mine. I bought a knock-off carb from Amazon and hated it so I bought a rebuild kit and rebuilt the original.

Engine runs good, and then turns to crap, then good for a while, then crap. I can't tell of the float is hanging up, or what's going on. I did quite a bit with it today and it ran good for quite a while then had problems, then cleared up and then even worse than before.

At this point after spending as much time as I have getting the Ariens back to like new condition I need a reliable engine. The way I see it, since I didn't like the cheap new carb and I'm having issues with the original even after multiple attempts I have two options.

New Tecumseh carb for around $100.
New Predator engine for $240ish.

As far as I know, the Tecumseh is in good shape, although I'm also fighting with getting the governor working good. It runs at a good rpm without a load, but drops more than I feel it should under load.

Machine is a late 90s vintage.

What would you do? Buy the carb and hope for the best, or just spring for a whole new engine? I need this machine to be reliable when I need it, luckily it did the job today but one of these times it's going to leave me stranded.

I'd prefer a genuine Honda, but everyone on the forum seems to feel the Predator engines are just as good. Is an 8HP Predator as strong as my 8 HP Tecumseh? Are the Predator's bolt on replacements or are modifications typically needed?

ALL opinions welcome!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

slap a new carb on that old iron.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Here's pictures, just because I think every thread should have them so people know what is being talked about.


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## Buttchet (Mar 5, 2013)

predator...8hp version with 20% off coupon $195...couple new pulleys for the 1" shaft and you are golden with more power than you can imagine.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Buttchet said:


> predator...8hp version with 20% off coupon $195...couple new pulleys for the 1" shaft and you are golden with more power than you can imagine.


Where does the new pulley(s) come from?
Also, any point in going with a 13hp?


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

If your engine is really good otherwise I think with a bit more focus on the carb issue you may have it solved. To throw out a perfectly good engine because the cab is bad does not make any sense. right?

Here are a few thoughts.

1. Ask Why is the carb having recurring issues?
a. bad gas/contaminated? Is the inside of the tank clean? Use a bit of sea foam in the fuel. I assume you use stabilizer.
b. Old fuel line that is failing on the inside can be putting particles in the fuel? If so replace it and add a filter.
c. Corrosion in the carb casting. (do you see that white powdery stuff on the inside?)

If either carb has internal corrosion you may be fighting an up hill battle and you may be best to buy a new or good used one. This is due to water in the fuel.

Did you do a complete rebuild that included soaking it overnight in carb cleaner and then blowing it out with air? Did you remove the welch plugs?

Did you replace the float with a new one?


Just some thoughts to get you thinking. I think you can solve the carb issue by correcting the root cause. 
A Predator is not a bolt on and go engine on your machine. Just remounting the chute control is a task in itself. It is doable but you are looking at more work than you may think.
Good Luck.



c.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

You can get pulleys locally at some hardware stores or places selling go cart parts, farm supply stores like FleetFarm or Tractor Supply or go on line : Snowmobile Parts, Go Kart Parts, Lawnmower Parts, ATV Parts, and more | MFG Supply (just one of many)

Depends on if you share DNA with Tim Taylor as the 13 would surely give you more power but the cheap 6.5 horse one would likely still be close to the 8hp Tech you have now.

6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine EPA

Maybe add a jet kit to it: Jet kit for Honda Clone engines

Just depends on how much money you have to play with. Nothing wrong with going with a bigger engine but in the "real" world I think that 13 horse might be more than you'd really ever get a benefit out of on a 24" blower (other than bragging rights ).


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> If you engine is really good otherwise I think with a bit more focus on the carb issue you may have it solved. To throw out a perfectly good engine because the cab is bad does not make any sense. right?
> 
> Here are a few thoughts.
> 
> ...



That's something I've been wondering. I do know the rod for turning the chute would need to be anchored ot something which is an obvious right away, but I have no idea what else is involved.


Basically, this machine was my boss' and was neglected for years until it ended up in pieces and sat for who knows how long like that. I put it back together for him and got it running the best I could in a short time. At that time, the carb was full of mud I had to scrape out using picks and what not. After a while a spring broke and some other things so the machine was left to sit again.

Fast forward 3 years and it's mine. I went through the entire machine, replacing what needed to be replaced, or was missing. The carb has been apart many times but I avoided the welch plugs and did not soak it.

There was some corrosion in it but I did my best getting rid of it. Right now I'd swear the float is either hanging up, or leaking and I replaced the needle and seat. Float it self is good and leak free

Fuel in machine is new as of 2 or 3 months ago, stored in a heated area and I drain the carb after each use.

What's annoying is, I'll go to work on it and it runs beautiful, I can't even troubleshoot it. Then, it'll start, run beautiful for a while in use, and then start having problems. Then, they go away again.

I hate intermittent problems! 

I 100% agree, ditching an entire engine because of a carb issue is dumb. But, when the entire engine is only twice the cost of a carb, it becomes tempting. What I don't know is the quality of those engines, and what's involved in switching over. From what you said, it's going to be a pain.

I should mention, when it's not having it's fits, the machine runs awesome under extreme load to the point of almost stalling (wet, wet snow) as well as idling. It runs absolutely perfect.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Hey there ChrisJ!

A carb issue is hardly enough justification to toss what may be a perfectly good engine.

When you rebuilt the carb, was the carb body thoroughly cleaned? Have you checked compression and spark when its barfing?

"Running like crap" can mean alot of things. Compression (valves, head gasket), spark, fuel delivery, bowl venting, tank venting...the list goes on. In the time that it would take to slap on a predator, you can pull the head, reseat the valves, adjust valve clearances, soak/rebuild the carb and decarb the block/head for minimal cabbage...and its fun! 

If you go the repower route, alot of guys here to walk you through it.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Hey there ChrisJ!
> 
> A carb issue is hardly enough justification to toss what may be a perfectly good engine.
> 
> ...


Haven't checking anything. I'm slacking right now. 
Running like crap, meaning severe hunting mainly when not under load. Under load it smooths out, except for when it get's really bad like it was before I shut it down. Partial choke didn't seem to help. Though, when I shut the fuel off with it running before putting it away it seemed to smooth out after a bit before it got worse due to lack of fuel.

This is why I started thinking the float is hanging up or leaking. Kind of like the bowl is overfilling.


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

Go visit your local small engine shop and buy a used carb for $20 - $25. We always had some in stock from all the blown up Tecumsehs we scrapped.


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## Prof100 (Feb 9, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> Where does the new pulley(s) come from?
> Also, any point in going with a 13hp?


 
Chris,

What I have read about the Predator conversions is that it is never a simple "bolt on conversion." That is, change pulleys, flip the gear box, remount the chute linkage, fabricate a cold air box, modify the mounting area of the snow blower, etc. etc. I have not done it myself and would only do so if the motor on my snow blower wasn't repairable. And, I have a complete shop behind my house with a mill, lathe, mig, tig, drill presses, etc. which I know how to use. If you want simple you must first determine the problem, the root cause and implement the corrective action. Is it fuel metering, ignition, spark, etc? If you can't determine the problem then you have no choice then to repower. I don't hesitate to take my equipment with motor problems to a local, and very good, small engine repair shop. They will honestly diagnose and come back with plan to either repair or replace.

Bill


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## Kensico (Feb 19, 2014)

Hey Chris you can buy a genuine Tecumseh carb(640349) for $49 on eBay item # is 161609107162 It is brand new,go to Home Depot and get a new fuel line,under $3 also put in a 1/4" inline fuel filter. Take off gas tank and dump old gas out and put in new gas add a stabilizer to it something like Seafoam or Star Tron I did this to an ignored Blower and now it works like new


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

ChrisJ said:


> Haven't checking anything. I'm slacking right now.
> Running like crap, meaning severe hunting mainly when not under load. Under load it smooths out, except for when it get's really bad like it was before I shut it down. Partial choke didn't seem to help. Though, when I shut the fuel off with it running before putting it away it seemed to smooth out after a bit before it got worse due to lack of fuel.
> 
> This is why I started thinking the float is hanging up or leaking. Kind of like the bowl is overfilling.


 Chris, Some more ideas if you think it is flooding gas.

1.Did you test the float in gas to see if it floats or has a leak.
2. Did you test that tab that controls the value is at the correct angle? Techumseh has a procedure with a certain size drill bit to use as a gauge pin. I cant recall the size. Basically you want to make sure that the valve is closed when the float is level or parallel to the ground. You can bend the tab to adjust this position. It may be that simple. 
2. Replace the rubber seat it may be bad. Or at least make sure you have it in the proper direction and make sure it is seated all the way in.

I typed this fast so I hope it makes some sense. I think you will get it. Stay on it.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Chris, Some more ideas if you think it is flooding gas.
> 
> 1.Did you test the float in gas to see if it floats or has a leak.
> 2. Did you test that tab that controls the value is at the correct angle? Techumseh has a procedure with a certain size drill bit to use as a gauge pin. I cant recall the size. Basically you want to make sure that the valve is closed when the float is level or parallel to the ground. You can bend the tab to adjust this position. It may be that simple.
> ...



Yep,
I replaced the rubber seat and then checked the float level, best I could.

So far, I haven't had much time to do anything. I spent 12 hours rebuilding the blower and then some time on the carb and things seemed good.

Sounds like the carb is the way to go so far. Hopefully, we'll get some nicer weather so I can put some time into it.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> classiccat said:
> 
> 
> > Hey there ChrisJ!
> ...


No biggie man!! When u hop on here and have 50 good suggestions thrown your way, can feel like you are spinning your tires.

That screams something with the idle circuit...and on the lean side since you need to choke it. when there is no load @ high speed, your governor is set properly, the carb butterfly should be barely off of the idle speed screw. Try turning out that idle jet a little (1/4 to 1/2 tun out) to see if it goes away. If not, the carb body may have a restriction. On my Hm80, always cold started with 1 pull and annihilates everything you feed it...but would hunt even with an idle jet adjustment... until I gave it a good soak In carb cleaner (removed the welch plugs), soaked/rinsed in hot water and blew out with compressed air.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Another question,

If I do buy a new carb such as the one Kensico pointed out on ebay.

Should I buy the correct one, which 640349 is. Or, should I find one with an adjustable idle mixture and main jet? I'd assume the adjustable one is better overall, no?


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

classiccat said:


> No biggie man!! When u hop on here and have 50 good suggestions thrown your way, can feel like you are spinning your tires.
> 
> *That screams something with the idle circuit.*..and on the lean side since you need to choke it. when there is no load and your governor is set properly, the carb butterfly should be barely off of the idle speed screw. Try turning out that idle jet a little (1/4 to 1/2 tun out) to see if it goes away. If not, the carb body may have a restriction. On my Hm80, always cold started with 1 pull and annihilates everything you feed it...but would hunt even with an idle jet adjustment... until I gave it a good soak In carb cleaner (removed the welch plugs), soaked/rinsed in hot water and blew out with compressed air.



Funny you should say that,
That's something I've been fighting with. I ended up using a screw off an older carb rather than a fixed jet. Not sure if that even works right to be honest.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Save the money and get the 6.5 hp for $100. It will easily preformed as well as the old 8hp engine and will be more reliable and plus it bolt right in to the same mounts.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> Guys I need opinions,
> 
> I got my ST824 working awesome but the engine has been having hiccups.
> 
> ...


 if the rings are good and it's doesn't smoke, a carb, points, spark plug, fuel filter is a lot easier than a whole engine. the best advice I can give is, whatever you would do with your car, do with your snowblower. in other words, would you change the engine in your car, if it just needed a fuel filter or spark plugs ? not if you had good common sense...diagnose the problem and change just the part that's bad. save the repower option for when a rod goes through the side of the block, or when the rings are so worn out, the engine is puffing like a house on fire....


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

The 8hp 301cc Predator is as powerful as 10hp Tecumseh or Briggs easily. The 212cc is easily as powerful as an 8hp L head


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I have used the 212cc Predator in place of an H70 on a 24" 1980's Ariens and an HM80 on a 1978 24" Ariens and both worked well.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

ChrisJ said:


> Yep,
> I replaced the rubber seat and then checked the float level, best I could.
> 
> So far, I haven't had much time to do anything. I spent 12 hours rebuilding the blower and then some time on the carb and things seemed good.
> ...



I was answering your questions about engine replacement before but looking through all that's gone on since it seems you likely need to better clean the carb you have or a cheaper replacement would cure your problem rather than replacing the engine.

When talking about a $100 carb on an old Tech some will surely say save the Tech but going for a complete new engine at near the same cost isn't hard to justify. You do have to remember you'll need some extra stuff and a bit of elbow grease to make it fit.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I was answering your questions about engine replacement before but looking through all that's gone on since it seems you likely need to better clean the carb you have or a cheaper replacement would cure your problem rather than replacing the engine.
> 
> When talking about a $100 carb on an old Tech some will surely say save the Tech but going for a complete new engine at near the same cost isn't hard to justify. You do have to remember you'll need some extra stuff and a bit of elbow grease to make it fit.


Yep, that's the problem
I'm thinking of saving the Tec though. I really don't feel like dealing with modifications right now and rarely have time for anything.

So I'm getting ready to order a new carb and a remote deflector kit, because that's really annoying me too.

So between a new non-adjustable carb and an adjustable carb, which one would you go with?

I'm thinking adjustable, but it's $92 vs $74, or, the $54 non-adjustable on Ebay.

I keep thinking, when it's sat for a while and something isn't quite perfect I'd be really thankful for the adjustable one. I've also heard that sometimes when a main jet get's plugged backing the adjustment out often clears it.

Thoughts?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

I'm a bit of a purist and try to preserve original parts on my equipment. That said, I have an emissions carb on my '72 H35 (assume the po replaced at some point) and I'll tell ya, that little sob runs like a scalded ape. No problems with lean issues even in the coldest weather (when most lean due to air density). I think they're ok as long as you use a filter to keep out debris, use fresh fuel with some form of stabilizer and be religious with preventative maint. You may have to get a special jet...or drills...for winter use If you go the n on-adjustable route.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

classiccat said:


> I'm a bit of a purist and try to preserve original parts on my equipment. That said, I have an emissions carb on my '72 H35 (assume the po replaced at some point) and I'll tell ya, that little sob runs like a scalded ape. No problems with lean issues even in the coldest weather (when most lean due to air density). I think they're ok as long as you use a filter to keep out debris, use fresh fuel with some form of stabilizer and be religious with preventative maint. You may have to get a special jet...or drills...for winter use If you go the n on-adjustable route.


Yeah I think I'm putting a filter on as well with a new fuel line.

This one work good?
Stens 120-562 Fuel Filter


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Thats the one! Those little briggs-style disk type won't cut the mustard.


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## Dave C (Jan 26, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> Guys I need opinions,
> 
> I typically feel I'm good with carbs but this one has been nothing but problems even before the machine was mine. I bought a knock-off carb from Amazon and hated it so I bought a rebuild kit and rebuilt the original.


I'm curious why you "hated" the Amazon carb. I have used 2 of them on Tecumseh engines with excellent results. For $18 it's hard to go wrong...

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=tecumseh+hm80+carburetor&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=32561157031&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14923556290466933408&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_1a0r1ibapt_b


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Dave C said:


> I'm curious why you "hated" the Amazon carb. I have used 2 of them on Tecumseh engines with excellent results. For $18 it's hard to go wrong...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=tecumseh+hm80+carburetor&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=32561157031&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14923556290466933408&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_1a0r1ibapt_b


Hi Dave,

Initially because of how it ran. Revving the engine resulted in black smoke because it was running super rich. Also noticed fuel leaking from the carb so I ended up taking it apart to check the float level. When I did this I found a few of the parts used on the new carb were of much lower quality than the original starting with the really really cheesy gasket on the main jet bolt.

Even after adjusting the float level I couldn't get it to work right so I gave up on it. No matter what I did it never ran even close to as good as the OEM carb can.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

New, adjustable Tec carb ordered as well as a remote chute deflector kit.

Thanks for helping me decide!!


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

another vote+ for replace the carb.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Most of the new parts came today, just waiting on the remote deflection kit.

New Tecumseh adjustable carb and gasket

New fuel line (2 pieces)

6 new fuel line clamps

Huge Stens fuel filter

New throttle and carb linkages as the originals are kinked and I'm not happy with them.

New manifold bolts and gasket.


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## Kensico (Feb 19, 2014)

One of the governor arms is supposed to be bent


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## Kensico (Feb 19, 2014)

Sorry meant to say linkage arm


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

ChrisJ said:


> Most of the new parts came today, just waiting on the remote deflection kit.
> 
> New Tecumseh adjustable carb and gasket
> 
> ...


Have you got it running yet? Hopefully it is only a carburetor issue. Once in a while the old flat head engines can have issues with the valves especially the exhaust valve. What happens is the clearance changes and the valve no longer closes fully once the engine reaches operating temperature. To fix it you need to remove the head and open the valve panel behind the carburetor and compress the spring and pull the valve keeper. You then need to clean the valve seat area and remove any carbon deposits with carburetor cleaner from the valve seat and valve. Reinstall and check the clearance. Typically you will find that the clearance is less than it needs to be and you will have to remove a small amount of material from the end of the valve stem. I would go until you are at the top end of the clearance range because the valves will expand once it gets warm again and you want to be sure it is still closes when at operating temperature. Finally you need to get some valve lapping compound and a small suction device. Apply the lapping compound to valve seat and spin the valve around. Spray clean with carburetor cleaner reassemble with new head gasket.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

I'm a fan of keeping old stuff. In the carb rebuild, there's a couple points I've learned about. You need to pull all the welch plugs and clean out the idle and air passages. Also, there's a tiny breather hole the size of a pin facing the side near the top of the carb. If it's blocked, the carb can get airbound causing all kinds of problems.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

GustoGuy said:


> Have you got it running yet? Hopefully it is only a carburetor issue. Once in a while the old flat head engines can have issues with the valves especially the exhaust valve. What happens is the clearance changes and the valve no longer closes fully once the engine reaches operating temperature. To fix it you need to remove the head and open the valve panel behind the carburetor and compress the spring and pull the valve keeper. You then need to clean the valve seat area and remove any carbon deposits with carburetor cleaner from the valve seat and valve. Reinstall and check the clearance. Typically you will find that the clearance is less than it needs to be and you will have to remove a small amount of material from the end of the valve stem. I would go until you are at the top end of the clearance range because the valves will expand once it gets warm again and you want to be sure it is still closes when at operating temperature. Finally you need to get some valve lapping compound and a small suction device. Apply the lapping compound to valve seat and spin the valve around. Spray clean with carburetor cleaner reassemble with new head gasket.



Nope not yet.
Have had the stomach flu since Thursday night and have been in survival mode.


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## artbob3962 (Nov 30, 2014)

While you have the head off grinding the exhaust valve stem. You might wanna replace the connecting rod.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

nt40lanman said:


> I'm a fan of keeping old stuff. In the carb rebuild, there's a couple points I've learned about. You need to pull all the welch plugs and clean out the idle and air passages. Also, there's a tiny breather hole the size of a pin facing the side near the top of the carb. If it's blocked, the carb can get airbound causing all kinds of problems.


Spot on beyond belief, the only way to get them back to somewhat normal


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

artbob3962 said:


> While you have the head off grinding the exhaust valve stem. You might wanna replace the connecting rod.


Don't you think you kinda jumped the gun on this one?

There are no indications of any valve issues and certainly none of a connecting rod issue. This is an HMSK series and has never been over-revved or run low on oil. 

Once I'm back on my feet (getting there now...) and have time the new carb and fuel line will go on and I'd bet 98% chance it'll run perfect.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

nt40lanman said:


> I'm a fan of keeping old stuff. In the carb rebuild, there's a couple points I've learned about. You need to pull all the welch plugs and clean out the idle and air passages. Also, there's a tiny breather hole the size of a pin facing the side near the top of the carb. If it's blocked, the carb can get airbound causing all kinds of problems.


Holy crap, I never noticed that hole.
I'm in no shape to go out side right now but I just looked at the new carb and sure enough just over the 3 numbers on the side there's a tiny pin hole.

I wouldn't be surprised if that's plugged on the original. After I put the new one on I'll probably tear the welch plugs out and check that pin hole as you suggested.

Can't hurt to have a spare carb on hand.

Why is that pinhole necessary? I thought the bowl vented 100% through the primer?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> Holy crap, I never noticed that hole.
> I'm in no shape to go out side right now but I just looked at the new carb and sure enough just over the 3 numbers on the side there's a tiny pin hole.
> 
> I wouldn't be surprised if that's plugged on the original. After I put the new one on I'll probably tear the welch plugs out and check that pin hole as you suggested.
> ...


Some primer bulbs don't have a vent hole. My H35 ('72 3.5hp) does not therefore relies on the pinhole to keep the bowl at atmosphere. I like it because you don't have to take your gloves off to prime


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Some primer bulbs don't have a vent hole. My H35 ('72 3.5hp) does not therefore relies on the pinhole to keep the bowl at atmosphere. I like it because you don't have to take your gloves off to prime


Oh.
So does that mean because my primer does have the vent, that the hole in the carb being plugged wouldn't matter anyway?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> Oh.
> So does that mean because my primer does have the vent, that the hole in the carb being plugged wouldn't matter anyway?


Good question! 

The series 3 carb on my HM80 has both vents. I always assumed both were needed to supply enough air to make-up the amount of fuel the engine's chugging especially when chompin' at that EOD. I bet that soft primer line would collapse if it had to supply all of the make-up air.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Good question!
> 
> The series 3 carb on my HM80 has both vents. I always assumed both were needed to supply enough air to make-up the amount of fuel the engine's chugging especially when chompin' at that EOD. I bet that soft primer line would collapse if it had to supply all of the make-up air.


Perhaps,
But that vent only makes up the difference (in and out) if the fuel level rises or falls. If the float valve maintains it fairly steady then nothing should go in at all.

That end we're talking about 8-10hp engines, it's not a 750CFM Quadrajet.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> Perhaps,
> But that vent only makes up the difference (in and out) if the fuel level rises or falls. If the float valve maintains it fairly steady then nothing should go in at all.
> 
> That end we're talking about 8-10hp engines, it's not a 750CFM Quadrajet.


sounds like you're volunteering to slap some jbweld over the vent hole to test-out that theory!


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

classiccat said:


> sounds like you're volunteering to slap some jbweld over the vent hole to test-out that theory!


Sounds like it, but I'll pass
I suspect that hole is there for a reason.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Is there any chance this small hole isn't a bowl vent but rather a vent for the idle circuit?



A good video on how carbs work including venting etc.


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## Kensico (Feb 19, 2014)

Nice video,didn't know I was saying carburetor wrong all these years&#55357;&#56861;


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

That is the King's English.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Ended up having to get the blower running today but never got the new carb and fuel line installed due to being sick earlier in the week.

I opened up the idle mixture screw a tad and it ran really good under load the entire time. Problem was it was a bit too rich idling and not under load but it got the job done. Also timed it perfectly that it ran the tank dry just as I was heading to put it away. Ok so, that was complete luck but I was still happy.

Before anyone gets confused about the mixture screw on a fixed jet carb, I installed an idle mixture screw into a later fixed jet carb because the fixed jet ended up damaged and I had the screw. The screw + and o ring seems to work but it seems my main jet is what's a little restricted.

Won't matter in a few days when the new carb goes on. I'm just happy it got the job done and was running strong the entire time. No signs of valve or other issues at all.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

All done!
New adjustable Tecumseh made carb, new linkage, new fuel line and filter.
Seems to run real good even under a big load.

Only thing that kind of surprised me was I ran it with the side cover removed to make it easier to adjust and even in a foot of icy snow it looked like the throttle only opened half way or so. RPMs were good so i guess it was producing plenty of power like that.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Nice save ChrisJ! Better at the end of the season than never. 

Machine looks awesome!


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## Prof100 (Feb 9, 2015)

ChrisJ,

Well done, thanks for sharing. It has to be great feeling of accomplishment.

Bill


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The rest of that throttle is there for when you load down the engine the governor can open it up more to try and maintain whatever you have it set at.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> The rest of that throttle is there for when you load down the engine the governor can open it up more to try and maintain whatever you have it set at.


Understood.

What I don't get is if the box is full of snow and I actually need to stop the wheels in bursts to allow the machine to catch up, how can I possibly put more of a load on it?

Would a ton of fluffy dry snow load it down then the layered mess I was using it in? I had big problems with it wanting to climb, I guess due to all of the layers of ice etc. I now see where tracks really shine.

Wonder how much added weight would help that issue?


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Now you neighbors will be coming to you to when they cant fix something.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Now you neighbors will be coming to you to when they cant fix something.


Too late. 
It's ok, they help me out when I need it too which is nice.


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