# My new 1964 Ariens 10ML60D Snow Blower!



## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

March is a good month to start on a snow blower rehab project. I was fortunate to find a one-family owned blower a few miles away. Brought it home, and am letting it settle in. Not sure what direction this project will take, or how long. I see some completely disassemble them, blast, weld, prime and paint, put on new shiny fasteners, rechrome the handle bars, put on new decals, and maybe new engines. Others like the "aged" appearance and concentrate on the mechanics, making sure it is tight and reliable, with new fluids and lube.

I'll post pics of it in its current state, and hope to get advice from those who have restored these machines. Everyhtjiong from cleaning tips, fluid and lube recommendations, mechanical improvements, spit and polish, multi-point inspections, throw it out there. 

according to the now-previous owner, the carb and fuel situation is near the top of the list. i have the original carb, but it had been replaced with a less than perfect Chinese replacement. I suppose new OE replacements are out there somewhere. Maybe the old one can be restored.

Anyway, lets see where this road leads!


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

more pics:


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

more pics:


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Real nice 1963 and kind of rare! Here is a section from Scot’s page:

[This "half-teardrop" bucket shape was used on the 1963 and 1964 First Series models, It was the precursor to the "full teardrop" shape that would come along in 1965 for the first year of 10,000 series production. This half-teardrop bucket is therefore somewhat rare, being used on only two model years, 1963 and 1964 "First Series" models.

So there are three distinct features of "first series" 1960-1964 machines, that are unique only to this series:

1: The "half circle" or "half teardrop" bucket shape, with or without optional "show shields"
2. Only one "clutch control lever" which turns on and off _both_ the transmission and augers.
3: The first series "rounded chute", also unique to this series.]


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

i believe it was purchased in December 1963. would that make it a '63 or '64? perhaps the serial number tells the truth.

i believe it is a 6 hp, highest for that machine.


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## Preacherman (Dec 20, 2020)

Definitely a ‘63 by the numbers. Also is the deluxe model by the “D” according to Scott’s page.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

ok, if true, a mod can adjust any reference to 1964 to 1963. also seems to be missing the throttle control?


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

and yet, the downloadable 1964 user manual off Scot's site does not show the throttle lever control, just the manual engine control like i have. hmm.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The machine has been repowered with a newer Tecumseh Snow King engine, which has a bulb primer and the throttle control on the engine. The handle bar throttle control was probably removed when the machine was repowered. 
Very nice old Ariens and will be a cool machine to show off to the neighbours next winter


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Take off the side shields and watch that doggy deal with EOD like you've never seen before!


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

i guess one of the big questions is should i dismount the entire engine assembly, concentrate on the chassis, and mount a modern higher hp engine. i could possibly sell this engine or parts to recover all or more of the costs. the PO told me that the top end had been rebuilt by his family in 1973 (maybe why the muffler in not period correct). In 1988 the fwd/reverse was rebuilt, but not sure what that actually will mean. In 2020 the carb was replaced with an aftermarket unit. Thoughts?


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

rwh963 said:


> i guess one of the big questions is should i dismount the entire engine assembly, concentrate on the chassis, and mount a modern higher hp engine. i could possibly sell this engine or parts to recover all or more of the costs. the PO told me that the top end had been rebuilt by his family in 1973 (maybe why the muffler in not period correct). In 1988 the fwd/reverse was rebuilt, but not sure what that actually will mean. In 2020 the carb was replaced with an aftermarket unit. Thoughts?


You've been here on this site long enough to know my preferences. 
As far as Ariens goes, I'm a 'concours'-type of guy: Original motor, colors, labels, the whole 9 yards. Modify that Tecumseh all you want internally, go ahead and use a Kevlar belt, I'll even go so far as putting Armorskids on it. But I won't put a Predator on it. I haven't measured a impeller that old, but no modifications are usually needed.
I could've used that bucket right now, so my focus would be a better repair where those birds crapped all over the inside corner of the chute.
Last Oil change? That's important. How's the lube in the augur gearing? 
You know the provenance of that unit from the day it was purchased. You got a sense of how the previous owner maintained it. You even got a nice note.
I'd remove the engine to do a clean-up and repaint, only. Of course, those degraded rubber hoses need replaced and the choke lever is 180 degrees out from where it should be, but all in all, eyeballs only, it looks like it should run without too much coaxing.
Make it look like new. Best of Luck!


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

even though i have been on the forum for a couple of years, i have not read every post! don't even know if i've read any of yours (its all a blur). as noted above, apparently the engine is not original (at least the top half?). i'm not interested in "matching numbers", but i do like things to be mostly period correct as long as they can do the job well. i've never serious small engine repair, or properly torn a machine apart down to the ground and invested the time and money to make it hum and sparkle (it is a snowblower, not a Ferrari!). 

the PO said he had considered an OE replacement carb, for example, but it was uber expensive, hence the cheaper replacement. sourcing OE parts certainly can be time consuming and expensive. 

i will be spending some time researching info here, but if any more senior members want to provide saved links to important threads on this subject, it would save me time.

side note: i saw this at my towns metal pile today and grabbed it, thinking it may help. maybe not, but any comments/value?


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

rwh963 said:


> as noted above, apparently the engine is not original (at least the top half?). i'm not interested in "matching numbers", but i do like things to be mostly period correct as long as they can do the job well. i've never serious small engine repair, or properly torn a machine apart down to the ground and invested the time and money to make it hum and sparkle (it is a snowblower, not a Ferrari!).


Um, repairing the unit is generally NOT considered affecting the originality.......It's a sign of proper care.
Apologies for my shortcomings, I have alot of them.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

i didn't mean to not repair, but replacing the original engine top must change the originality factor.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I would spray every nut and bolt on the machine with a good penetrant (Liquid Wrench, Kroil etc) and let sit for a few days. Remove the auger shear bolts and see if the augers will spin on the shaft. If not the augers are rust welded to the shaft and that will be a task to get them freed up (many threads on this problem). Try to remove both wheels from the axle shafts, hopefully they are not rust welded.
Dribble a little oil down the spark plug hole to lube the piston.

Put machine in service position and remove the belly pan and make sure there is no rodent damage and then lube chain, shafts etc and make sure nothing is seized.

Check auger gear box has oil.

Ensure auger clutch is not engaged and machine is in neutral.
Check oil level and ensure no water or fuel contamination.
Check to see if the plug has spark, if it does dribble some fuel or spray starter fluid into the hole and replace plug and see if the engine will fire.

If engine fires, I would replace the fuel lines, clean the fuel tank and carb and try to get the engine running. Then see if the transmission and blower function as they should.

A photo of the engine nameplate should tell us the series and DOM of your engine, the #'s will also be stamped on the top of the fan shroud just like the scrap engine.

The engine from the scrap pile is a HM 7 HP (late 70's early 80's maybe) and could be useful for parts and may even run. If it's carb could be cleaned and rebuilt you would probably have a better carb than the one on your machine. 

Definitely a fun and rewarding project for the coming months.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

thx Z65, those are some good suggestions. i was told the machine did do some blowing last year. the gas tank is empty, the oil is clean. the carb is aftermarket (i do have the original to the rebuild i suppose in a box. don't know if its missing any pieces). the fuel is bypassed as seen in pics. i think the PO said that he had to spray some starting fluid in the carb to get it going (maybe that was the old carb). i would like the carb to be authentic USA device, not imported.

the auger turns, but haven't removed the bolts.

i think the serial number for the engine is under the added electric starter.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

even with the shears in, the augers appear to move on the shaft. i think the rims will slip off, PO said he replaced the tires some time ago. there is a differential lock knob on the left rim.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The augers should spin freely (rotate) on the shaft by hand with the shear bolts removed. The augers should not spin freely (rotate) by hand with the shear bolts in place.

Best to check at some point. While shear bolts are out, pump some low temp or marine grease through the zerks and rotate the auger rakes several times to distribute the grease on the shaft.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

yes, i understand what you mean about spinning freely. as for greasing, of course not sure if the entire machine will be broken down and redone, so greasing may be premature.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

i tracked down the number on the engine housing. it was behind the electric starter. unfortunately it wasn't under, or it would be much more legible. 

no real documents came with this blower. but on an envelope is written:

model: 10ML60D
serial #: 15905
Engine model: H60-75003B
Serial # 3304-04867

here is a pic of the top engine #:


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

carb update: here is a group shot of the carb the PO provided. i don't know what all the pieces are, i don't know if this is the 1963 carb or the 1970s carb. the stamped number on the carb body is 577 3F 30. then of course the Lausen name.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

yikes! no turning back. engine popped off clean. rims detached no problem. scraper bar looks original! nuts ground down to nubs. used a screwdriver and small sledge to pop the washers off, bolt heads then fell out. there is one where the nut is too big, and can't yet get the washer off. sprayed with blaster. there is a crack in the bottom steel at one scraper corners, about two inches long. 

i guess a lot of cleaning ahead. nesting material behind the big pully wheel. haven't opened the belly pan yet. whats the best fluid to soak nuts and bolts in: mineral spirits? bolt threads full of grime and dirt.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Problem: pulled the shear bolts. Right auger spins, left is frozen. Hit ends with blaster. Tapped with hammer. Expert advice?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Do you have a air compressor with an air impact gun? If so hit the auger with a blunt round flat impact tool.

If not, heat with oxy acetelyene and use a long long pipe wrench.

If not use a pipe wrench.

Otherwise take it off, take it apart and use a puller to pull it off. Does the sides come off to do it this way without taking it apart?


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

no compressed air. no torch, but do have a heat gun. i can use wood and small sledge and tap. don't want to damage the gearbox.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

still working on freeing the auger. realizing that this machine does not have grease fittings to lube the shaft. how is that done? probably why it is frozen. remove the entire shaft (i see bottom cut out to lift the shaft out, but would need to free the impeller as well)?


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

used a heat gun, added more liquid wrench. let it sit.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Unfortunately, heat gun is probably not going to do it.

I have a map gas canister torch for that stuff that needs to be heated. As mentioned, an air hammer works well also, but even light taps with a ball peen hammer works, while having a puller rigged up on it. Having the proper work area and tools is all the difference when tackling that stuff.

Rust weld, especially on an auger with its length, is usually a tedious endeavor, but usually can be done with heat, weasel ****, light taps, all the while with a puller on it for tension, .... repeat, repeat .......

Once freed, lube the entire auger shaft with Never-Seize, ... and to maintain them without a grease fitting, ... twice a year, once being prior to summer storage, remove the shear bolts, and spray a good lubricant like chain and cable lube, fluid film, etc. into each shear bolt hole, as well as both ends of the auger where it joins its shaft and spin the shaft freely before putting the shear bolt back in..


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

oneacer said:


> Unfortunately, heat gun is probably not going to do it.
> 
> I have a map gas canister torch for that stuff that needs to be heated. As mentioned, an air hammer works well also, but even light taps with a ball peen hammer works, while having a puller rigged up on it. Having the proper work area and tools is all the difference when tackling that stuff.
> 
> ...


first, welcome back!

second, how would an air hammer work? i'm assuming this is after dismantling the drive system and removing that side shaft from the gear case (never done that before)? wondering why these were built without grease fittings. would drilling through and installing some be of a benefit here?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@rw,

I prefer light taps with a ball peen hammer along the auger shaft casing, but an air gun hammer would also give the "shock" effect...... as I am heating, weasel **** and tapping, I draw on the end of the puller as well with an air impact wrench (i.e. air gun socket) for shock effect as well...... repeat, repeat, repeat ......leaving overnight with tension on it helps as well.....

CAUTION ... be very careful, as you don't want to be whacking into the gear case.....


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

let me get this straight, you are talking about doing this while the auger set up is in the bucket? so hitting the auger tube perpendicular to the shaft? i imagine knocking the auger back and forth will injure the gear case. 

maybe ill take the whole thing to an exhaust shop and see if they can spare some gas.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I know Taryl is an aquired taste, but he knows his stuff.

Video showing the heat and quench method of removing rust welded tines on a roto tiller.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@rw,

I thought you had the auger assembly out of the bucket, as that is how your going to separate the auger from its shaft.

The tapping I was referring to was along the horizontal plane, i.e. along the length of it, to shock along the area you heated and applied weasel ****. I rig a puller on the end.

I'll have to find my thread where I posted pictures and post them here ......


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Here is the link I posted awhile back, but I must have deleted the photos in order to have space to post more.
Just do a search for " Rusted Auger "


I located the photos in my files ....


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

thank you, that's more helpful. i suppose i can tap while its in the bucket, but need to remove if i want to use the puller.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

and looking at the puller set up, that is why there is a punch point in the rear of the impeller shaft of the dump find 824!


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many axles come with a beveled in center point as you mentioned for pullers, as you don't want to be beating on the end of any shaft or axle, as it will be mushroomed, and you will be grinding it at that point. If no puller assist bevel in on the end, center punch the end and drill a small slight indent, otherwise the puller will keep walking on you......

Unless you completely dismantle it, you will be really fighting it with probably little success......


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