# Impeller Modification



## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

I pulled the chains from my circa 1990 Craftsmans 8/26. Still have not made a decision on which new tires to get so I will run what I have if we get any snow the Toro can't handle which is not likely.

I decided to add an impeller kit. Pulled the chute and actually measured and cut some material from an old swing set then decided against using that material thinking it would be too soft and if it did not hold up I'd be cutting more holes for new paddles.

Not really a waste of time since it gave me a chance to size everything up and think the install over.

So anyone have any advice or comments? I notice the gap goes from about 1/4" on the edge nearest the engine to about 3/8" towards the augers. It seems intentional. Not sure why they would engineer that gap to open up as it heads toward the front of the machine.

The gap opens sharply to prob 1/2" just where the vane turns 90 deg and forms what I would call a cutter that I assume must chop and hold the snow to consolidate the load on the vane before it gets thrown. Should I add material onto or up to that 90 or stay back?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

i usually drill/tap the holes in the impeller vanes 1st.

I'll then lay the rubber on the impeller vane and rotate the impeller holding the rubber in place...after a turn or 2 you'll locate the tightest gaps.

Once I'm happy with the rubber placement, I transfer the holes using an awl (I use an old ice-pick).

Remove the rubber and drill (or punch) holes then fasten. 

Once it's fastened, turn the impeller...if it's a little tight, that's ok; the impeller housing will shave it to size. If you can't turn it by hand, you may need to trim the rubber a bit.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

The widening gap is probably the result of impeller deformation. Over time the blades press against the backing plate when under load. The gussets drive the plate back, forming a wavy back plate. That deformation cause the blades to lean inward and away from the impeller housing.

Pete


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

Spectrum said:


> The widening gap is probably the result of impeller deformation. Over time the blades press against the backing plate when under load. The gussets drive the plate back, forming a wavy back plate. That deformation cause the blades to lean inward and away from the impeller housing.
> 
> Pete


Sorry to say I don't agree with your logic. There is no rearward pressure to the point of deformity. The gussets are there to make it more rigid since the steel isn't all that thick. I have never seen a bent Impeller plate from only snow and besides according to your logic if the back plate bends then the Impeller tips parallel to the housing would have an uneven gap front to back.The gap was put there from the get go. Go into the big box stores and look real carefully. Brand new out of the box it has a decent gap. Only top of the line maybe are better.


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

just made mine w/an old tire, now waiting for some decent amount of snow to test it out


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

vinnycom said:


> just made mine w/an old tire, now waiting for some decent amount of snow to test it out


you will love it single best thing you can do to a blower
besides making sure the motor is at 3600rpm
low rpm really effects throw distance and clogs much easier


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

1132le said:


> you will love it single best thing you can do to a blower
> besides making sure the motor is at 3600rpm
> low rpm really effects throw distance and clogs much easier


:smiley-signs009:


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

we had a couple of inches of really heavy wet snow which i shoveled into mounds and then got the sb to finish it off, threw it a good 30', but wasnt much snow to continuously get it in the bucket .hence still waiting on a good amount of snow to fall. excited lol


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

Spectrum said:


> The widening gap is probably the result of impeller deformation. Over time the blades press against the backing plate when under load. The gussets drive the plate back, forming a wavy back plate. That deformation cause the blades to lean inward and away from the impeller housing. Pete


I don't want to dismiss this out of hand and will take a careful look at the vanes. Having said, this older machine is pretty heavily constructed (manual dated 1988/sold 1991) and lightly used. The impeller still has a lot/most of its paint.

If the vanes did flex they did it very uniformly and I would guess that that much deflection over such a short distance (3 3/4") would have leave evidence in the form of stress cracks in the paint on the underside. I will give that a good look. 

I do have evidence of one ding in the impeller housing that I want to bang back into place but to my eye the impeller vanes themselves all seemed undamaged and spin w/o wobble.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

In the view of many, this is the single best improvement you can make. When making it myself, I focused on the rubber used, settled on SBR and purchased a 2X36" 3/8" thick piece that worked well. You can also use neoprene which may work even better than SBR.


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## KOBO (Jul 15, 2017)

FWIW, Home depot and such sell rubber baseboard covers, they sell it in rolls but you can get them in 3 foot pieces too. The stuff is designed to protect the wood baseboards from getting banged up in high traffic areas and glues on over it. They have it in plastic and rubber. I bought a 3 foot piece of the rubber stuff for less than $5 and cut my pieces out of that.

It is only about 1/8" thick but I used contact cement to double it up. Works great and I have enough left over to last me a lifetime.


K


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

I ended buying a kit from someone you're all prob familiar with. Came yesterday and hope to install this weekend.


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

it will make a difference, on mine it did anyways. i used a old tire i had, cost me nothing, pia to cut though but it was free. made pilot holes for self tapping screws and used washers. vids on me cutting it are in my sig.
best throwing distance is when chute is pointed to the right as thats the direction of impeller ejection angle.

first vid shows w/out the mod and second one shows with mod. both were the heavy wet snow type which i shovelled to eod as it was only a couple of inches so it ended up slightly compacted.

https://youtu.be/UebcI_1j1nE?t=47


https://youtu.be/9KzmU71VMIE?t


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

Impeller Kit installed. Took a while since I was probably trying to be too fine and could've got the same results just using the self tapping screws but I did the full drill out w/ nuts and bolts.

I also had a bulge in the housing that I banged back in. That also helped to close the gap up. It was above and along the weld so I didn't beat on it too much but it's pretty straight now.

After the rubber was in I shot the inside of the impeller housing w/ Fluid Film to lubricate everything and ran it for 5 min or so to let it all wear in. Guess all in all I added about 3/8" so hoping for a good result.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Jat you will love that machine with an impeller kit. Sold it to a friend and we still use it. I once shifted it into deep snow mode tied the handles down and just watched it tunnel through a side of the road snow bank until I couldn't reach it any longer. Retrieving it was fun. If it's a keeper find a spare dual shaft engine and one of the Tecumseh Peerless transmission that it uses. Those parts are hard to come by.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Oh yeah get new tires those turfs are useless without chains on slippery surface. I just grabbed a set of wheels off a newer style junked Craftsman. The stock tire and rim was difficult to find a snow tire, If my memory serves me right.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

guilateen02 said:


> Jat you will love that machine with an impeller kit. Sold it to a friend and we still use it. I once shifted it into deep snow mode tied the handles down and just watched it tunnel through a side of the road snow bank until I couldn't reach it any longer. Retrieving it was fun. If it's a keeper find a spare dual shaft engine and one of the Tecumseh Peerless transmission that it uses. Those parts are hard to come by.


Wow that's one you posted is clean and you have the tires I would like. Do you remember if you used the old rims or changed them out to put new tires?

I'm afraid one day the trans will go and the machine will be scrap. Mine does not have too many miles on it but the trans is sealed so normally no changing fluid.

Edit I see you answered my tire question before I posted, thanks!


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

There is a shear pin/bolt that goes though the axle shaft. Male sure it is oe spec. That trans will snap them and people will replace with harder steel and there goes the trans. Download an online manual if you don't have one. I'm pretty sure the part number is in there and you can cross reference for proper steel grade.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

I got this machine as part of my current home purchase. The guy was a Sears exec and left a bunch of misc consumable parts still in original packaging including shear pins.

A couple years ago I removed the shear pins to make sure they were not bolts and that augers were not rusted onto the shaft. Lubed everything and put the pins back in. As far as I know they are correct but I never checked. You make a good point I should double check.


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## mikeysb83 (Jan 9, 2018)

I'm hearing good things about this impeller kit, I see it $40 on eBay. Is that what u paid?


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

mikeysb83 said:


> I'm hearing good things about this impeller kit, I see it $40 on eBay. Is that what u paid?


I paid $30 plus shipping because it's a 3 vane impeller. The kit is fine but I would have liked if the rubber had cord like a tire. Hope it's durable enough.

There is a Gilson guy that sells kits with rubber that looks corded which I think it would be tougher but the size was not good for me. His kits also have slotted holes for adjusting which seems like a good idea both for install and for later as it wears.

You could look him up (not sure how this forum is as far as promoting so I won't say). You could cut also your own. As for me I had no old tire around and just wanted the convenience of not having to go to the hardware store etc.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

These impeller kits are much easier to install on exit chute openings that address round rather than rectangular. For the rectangular, you have to use a very long drill bit or use a drill but extension. For the part it's best to have the shank drill bits and use a drill bit driver extension. Otherwise the only other option is to remove the auger and impeller and do it outside the housing.


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## thefixer (Nov 19, 2017)

I have installed over 40 impeller kits and I think the easiest way is to remove the impeller to drill and mount the flaps. I slot all the flaps and adjust them when I put the impeller back in. I have a template for drilling impeller and the holes in the flap so it goes pretty quick.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

thefixer said:


> I have installed over 40 impeller kits and I think the easiest way is to remove the impeller to drill and mount the flaps. I slot all the flaps and adjust them when I put the impeller back in. I have a template for drilling impeller and the holes in the flap so it goes pretty quick.


A little experience would have gone a long way here for sure. The paddles and metal bracket ride up onto the vanes where they start to turn vertical to form a shear or whatever it's called.

I had to bend the metal to approximate the angle and even so it caused the rubber to shift around more than it would normally so a lot of tightening/loosening, readjusting and re-tightening in a tight spot. By the time I did the third one I was getting better but ran out of vanes.


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## driz (Dec 19, 2013)

One is just treadmill belt. Frayed now and tattered but still works as good as when newly installed. 
Just watch your fingers on the round edge of the chute if you drill it on the machine. When the drill plunges through it’s hard not jam your trigger finger. The first one hurts like **** the second has you swearing. After the 3rd you are just waiting for it and it’s excrutiating. Self tap they say, ha Ariens just laughs at those. Wear gloves you’ll bleed less

My ariens tunnel is heavy gauge steel, still that belt will strip off the paint on short order. I don’t think I’d want any plastic that’s too tough banging away in there. It’s not necessary anyways as mud flap or equipment belt seems to wear in fast and hold up well.


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## thefixer (Nov 19, 2017)

Here is a photo of my flaps.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

Here's a look at what I've done recently. The nuts, bolts and metal strips are stainless steel. The rubber material used is what I use in my conveyors purchased from Mcmaster-Carr except now available with texture on both sides and the one I currently have is one side smooth.https://www.mcmaster.com/#5753K433
Also pictured are the worn and new skids. The new skids are of the ARMOR skid brand model# ASE2505 with the exception that I modified the slots as you can see a comparison picture in its original state prior to machining.
I bought this 42" snowblower used in almost mint condition for my John Deere L120 riding mower. The impeller gap is rather large and this will make a 100% improvement from its original design


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

Prepare to laugh, thats right laugh.., you will be entertained by this improvement. You'll do a few neighbors sidewalks hoping they see you chuck it across the street or into the upper tree branches/light posts!!!! Enjoy!


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

all3939 said:


> The rubber material used is what I use in my conveyors purchased from Mcmaster-Carr


That looks like sturdy stuff that will hold up. I hope you're right about how well it works. I know I filled a decent sized gap.


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