# Ariens Point Of No Return



## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

I'm in the process of a rest mod of my 1974 924series 8\32. After the teardown,Im very pleased with the condition of this unit. No major surprises yet. With the help of the forum members Im pretty confident about this rebuild. Here is a list of some of my plans. Please anyone feel free to chime in on any tips,tricks,advice, good vendors, etc. I know off hand i will need a reputable vendor for a piston and ring kit. The engine is also leaking oil from somewhere. So a gasket kit as well. The only vendor I've found so far is on eBay and he seems pricey at 100 for piston and rings. 

Long chute mod
Possible plastic inside chute depending on advice
From worm to star drive chute
Relocation of chute control RH side
Adding a stator for amp output 
Carlisle Xtrac 
Impeller kit
Bearings
Auger gear inspection 
Full cosmetic overhaul as well

Thanks and stay tuned guys. Ill need the help and expertise.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Here's some pics.


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## caddydaddy (Dec 10, 2014)

I just got my 1973 922008 back together, it was covered in oil when I got it. The leak was from the breather gasket. I replaced it and it doesn't leak now.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Would need the engine numbers to do some looking but I found a piston and rings for an 8hp Tec for $35

Tecumseh 34540 Piston 33873 Ring Kit Std NLA Vintage HM70 HM80 H80 | eBay


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

It'll be the best thing you ever did, and the machine will run forever afterwards. 

what kissfrog said, the piston/ring price is high at $100. you can get it for about $70 shipped. looks like $35 plus $25 shipping. I'd ask the guy to reduce the shipping. those are small, light parts, can ship USPS for about $10

hm80 tecumseh piston ring | eBay


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## lee h (Jan 18, 2015)

That seller has the shipping to me at $9.00, That would be a 44.00 piston kit.
Sounds reasonable to me.




Lee


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

you probably wont even need the piston, usually you can get away with new rings and a light hone to bring the crosshatching back


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

BUT . . . you need to search for parts using the engine numbers so you know it will fit.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

I didn't get much done yesterday. I spent my free time under the hood of a Chrysler. 
Today I was a little better with time management. I the star chute star drive kit I got from Jackmels. I also relocated the chute control handle to a more user friendly spot.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

It was alot of.measuring and aligning. I didn't want to drill any unnecessary holes. Also does my chain have to much slack. Is it suppose to be tight or loose fitting. It appears it might have been rubbing the belly pan.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Looking Good...Keep us Posted on Your Progress! That Star Drive Looks familiar....


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I'd say your chain has too much slack, yes.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Update. Ive got the tractor,bars,and chute just about complete. The chute star drive conversion was a little more detailed work than I anticipate, but all is going well. Now for bucket work.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Wow! Looks fantastic so far! Nice work...


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

That's gonna be Nice when done....LMK if you need a chain.


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## Rob711 (Feb 5, 2015)

Why did u change to star drive vs worm. Looks like u will have a beast! Wish I had a bigger driveway!


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

I didn't like the 9 1/2 turns for a full chute rotation. The star drive is about 4 turns. I like to put all my snow in a certain side and area of the drive. I also relocated the crank handle to a more user friendly location. I should now be able to keep the blower moving and quickly adjust where the chute is pointed on the fly.


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## loneraider (Oct 26, 2013)

That's a great project 
Wish I could find an older ariens to restore/
Its going to be beautiful when your done !!
more pics....lol


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Time for more pictures ??

:icon-wwp:


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Kiss I haven't gotten much done lately. I ran into a series of time consuming events. . My truck crapped the bed. It's lawn mower season (sales and service . The wife wants to revamp the garden setup. I've been able to do some dismantle of the bucket and auger. Everything came apart fairly easy. Haven't even ordered any bearings or belts yet. Play time and budget has been limited. Between the vehicle, garden fencing, kids outdoor toys, etc. I was hoping I would be further along but sometimes life has other plans.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Well guys the Ariens PONR project is back on track. Just this week I received my Carlisle 16.6.5x8. Also installed a replacement coil.The fly wheel must of had some hungry critters residing under it at some point. It was still running but wiring was pretty chewed up. As Murphy's law would go, it would have failed during the biggest storm. Glad I caught it in time. 
Also took apart the gear case, augers, and the whole shabang. My auger bearings are in. I ordered a few extra this year. It was a deal I couldn't pass up on. 
Now for a couple questions. I remember last year the cord pulled out of my hand abruptly a couple times. I checked the key (see pic) looks normal and used. Is a faulty keyway usually obvious in visual inspection or will a minute imperfection cause malfunction?
Also I forgot, do I freeze or heat the bearing to slide onto the shaft? Thanks for any help.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

it doesnt look bad but since your already in there i would replace it, also check your flywheel for cracks around keyways slot. if the key just fell right out and the key doesnt look mashed, you may have a worn keyway in the crankshaft


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Thanks 43128. The key did come out with no effort at all. I will replace it. Going to stop at a hardware store tomorrow. Cross my fingers I find one easy. I also cleaned a considerable amount of carbon from the valves and head. Hopefully she fires up nice and smooth now.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If the key still looks fine (to me it does) I would just reuse it. The key doesn't actually hold anything on, it just lines the flywheel up for tightening. The nut is what actually holds things in place. You could technically not use a key if you lined things up right. I seriously doubt you have enough play in it to cause any issues.

You would always want to freeze the inside part and heat the outside part. Cold contracts and heat expands. Though, you would never want to heat a bearing except for maybe keep it in a warm room. You don't want to melt the rubber seals or boil the grease inside.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

On the kickback. Assuming you've already been inside the engine. Did the cam and crank timing marks line up? Intermittent kickback could be the compression release sticking open (the spring not returning the weight leaving the tab turned clear of nipping the valve open). Maybe goofy connection from the critters caused it to fire early intermittently???? Is that a points engine?


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

No not a points engine. I did remove the cam and all seems perfect on that end. I'm thinking my problem came from fuel misfire. Due to the faulty wiring and excessive carbon deposits in the cylinder head. It was also the original plug. Which the previous owner said he never removed. I didn't even attempt to force it off. Just gave it plenty of lube when the head was off and pronto. The true test will be later on tonight after reassembly. I have my carb soaking in the HF ultrasonic cleaner and simple Green while I'm at work. I'm going to go with a new key any way.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Is my fuel misfire theory plausible for a yanking start. Or am I just on a pipe dream avoiding a cam rebuild.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Making some headway. Finally in the assembly part of the project. Engine fires up nice and smooth. Runs Like a top as well.


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## MPCOA (Sep 4, 2015)

The new meats look nice


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

Can you elaborate a little on the chute conversion?

I like the faster star drive setup too, but the old chutes are pretty short and I prefer the newer taller ones. Did you just use the old chute, or did you cut the bottom off and attach it to the newer chute?


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

My chute conversion consisted of acquiring a taller chute and a spare chute with the star drive. My machine came with a shorty and worm drive. I had to cut and weld the star ring on the tall chute. Also modify the mounting point for the star rod. It has to come in straight at the star disk were as a worm drive is angled at the disk. I can take more detailed pics when I get home later on. It wasn't to difficult with the proper tools. Also had to move the rod bracket over a couple inches to get the proper angle. Your mod might not be as difficult as mine. Because I also extended and angle the chute control hand up and towards the operator where I can use my right hand to change chute direction without stopping and using my left hand.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Got quite a bit done today. Installed an impeller kit. Even with the auger off the machine it is a pain lining it all up. I lined the housing with two coats of plasi- dip. Then adjusted the rubber seals. Then removed the plasti-dip paint and the clearance is perfect. Got a lot of assembly done as well. Can't wait to put the tall chute to work. Still need scraper bar, shoes,and a few minor miscellaneous things.


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## dneubauer09 (Sep 25, 2015)

Wow, looking good so far. Leagues better than it looked when you got it.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

The end is near. Now a couple questions for the gurus. Ariens L-2 compound oil. Is that a dealer only item? Any thing aftermarket that is better. I don't want to skimp out on fluids after tearing that gearcase apart. Any updates for gear oil?


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Can any mods please fix the pics for me. They came out really small and I don't know why. Thanks in advance.
Forget it I think I got it.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Awesome machine Guilateen02! Great job. Also couldn't help but notice the Red Sox plaque, Go Sox! Except for this season ha-ha.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Looking great.


guilateen02 said:


> I lined the housing with two coats of plasi- dip. Then adjusted the rubber seals. Then removed the plasti-dip paint and the clearance is perfect.


Were you hoping to keep the plasti-dip in place originally and it simply didn't hold up?


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Thanks dbert. I wanted a tight clearance in the impeller housing but didn't want rubber scraping all the paint off of it while it wore into the shape it needed. With the plasti-dip it got it nice and tight. When I removed the plasti-dip it left a nice very minute clearance. And I'll be able to keep some paint inside the housing to prevent rust and keep a nice slick surface.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

nice job gt02 !!!!


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Nice job Guilateen02! 

That is the same chute that I added to my machine. And believe it or not, I am planning on adding that sprocket type ring to mine because of the ridiculous amount of turns that it takes to turn the chute with the worm gear. To me, the worm gear is a step down. 

With my repower, I couldn't use the sprocket type because the Briggs is a wider engine and with that bracket being bent, it would hit the engine. So over this past summer with some thinking, I bent that bracket flat and I think I can use it now where it will not hit the engine. This will lead me to switching the bottom ring. 

Try to fabricate the remote deflector with that chute. That is where I am right now. 

Also, I will be very curious on if you get snow thrown back in to your face when that chute is turned all the way to the right because of the angle and depth of the bottom of the chute. If so, you will have to add a baffle to that side of the chute. PLEASE... let me know. 

You will love those X-trac tires. 

Again, Great Job!


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Thanks on the comments guys. K basa the chute doesn't turn no more or less in either direction than the old one did so I don't see the conversion creating bany new problems in that sense. As for the remote deflector I made a small attempt at creating one but decided I'm going to be patient and wait for a part out machine to surface and get an OE one. These cables for this style chute are rare and a pain to find a direct fit. I think the worm gear is a step down as well. Way to many turns. I won't not buy any tires other than the X-trac. It made a world of difference in operation of a blower on my previous machine. From struggling and choppy operating to smooth power through enjoyable blowing. Here is a couple full chute rotation pics. I don't want to add any front panels to chute. Might make any foreign clogs a pain to clear. Newspapers, sticks, wires, you name it I've sucked it up before. With a snowblower that is.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)




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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

K basa is that you in the video that acquired that mint 8/32. That machine in the pic appears to already have a tall chute. Is that the one your converting.


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Well guys she is just about done. Just needs a polish and and a wax job. Thanks to all the guys for the tips, links to parts, comments etc. On to the next project.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

Not sure what video you are speaking about, but... I do not own a 8/32. The machine in the photo is my machine from last season. It had a 15" chute on it that I believe came off of a 8/24 machine. At least that is what I was told. It has my original 11" chute on the top of it as an extension. 

In the photo, I was comparing how the two chute differ with angles and with bottom depth. 



guilateen02 said:


> K basa is that you in the video that acquired that mint 8/32. That machine in the pic appears to already have a tall chute. Is that the one your converting.


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