# Troy bilt Storm Drive assy.



## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

A guy brought me a Troy built storm with drive weird drive issue. Model 31AS6R72063 Ser: 1G163B10394 This snow blower was worked on by someone else and somehow now the drive speeds work backwards there is now 6 reverse and 2 forward. before I tear into this machine I wanted to see if anyone could possibly know what the guy could have done for this to happen? also was told the engine was changed
The engine this snowblower has is like the one on the right on diagram
I have no idea what the original engine was. I'm assuming Troy Built used 2 different 
engines on this model. any real help would be appreciated.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

TX610 said:


> now the drive speeds work backwards there is now 6 reverse and 2 forward.


Dumb question: do the augers and impeller turn the correct way? If not, the new engine could be rotating the other way, clockwise vs the normal counterclockwise (from PTO shaft side). Rare, but possible; some engines for special applications are built the other way.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

Not sure if it is even possible to assemble it wrong but the drive wheel may be contacting the drive plate on the wrong side it it is on the left. That could cause the gears to operate in “reverse”


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

tabora said:


> Dumb question: do the augers and impeller turn the correct way? If not, the new engine could be rotating the other way, clockwise vs the normal counterclockwise (from PTO shaft side). Rare, but possible; some engines for special applications are built the other way.


I just picked it up so auger rotation isn't known doesn't run now been sitting with gas in it guy said for four years. Thanks for input.


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

vmax29 said:


> Not sure if it is even possible to assemble it wrong but the drive wheel may be contacting the drive plate on the wrong side it it is on the left. That could cause the gears to operate in “reverse”


Yea that makes sense. I'll have pull bottom cover off. Thanks.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, lol . .... very simple, someone put a single shaft engine on a machine that came with the dual shaft ... 

Good luck with that one, .... you might be able to mirror image the drive system, but that can be very difficult or about impossible even on some machines.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

Another thing to check, if I remember correctly the original HMSK Tecumseh engine had the secondary pulley driven from a camshaft. This could be the cause of the reverse issue if the new engine has only one shaft driving both pulleys. 

Edit: Oneacer can also type way faster than me 😂


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

TX610 said:


> A guy brought me a Troy built storm with drive weird drive issue. Model 31AS6R72063 Ser: 1G163B10394 This snow blower was worked on by someone else and somehow now the drive speeds work backwards there is now 6 reverse and 2 forward. before I tear into this machine I wanted to see if anyone could possibly know what the guy could have done for this to happen? also was told the engine was changed
> The engine this snowblower has is like the one on the right on diagram
> I have no idea what the original engine was. I'm assuming Troy Built used 2 different
> engines on this model. any real help would be appreciated.
> View attachment 189228


The diagram on the right is showing a dual shaft engine, which you state in on the unit. It sounds like the original engine was a single shaft, and was replaced with a dual shaft. The wheel drive is powered from the camshaft extension on dual shaft engine machines, instead of the crankshaft. That it is running backwards makes sense. To get everything rotating in the correct direction, you'll need to move the friction wheel to the other side of the drive disc, and obtain a shifter rod for a dual shaft machine.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

VaSnowfighter said:


> The diagram on the right is showing a dual shaft engine


I guess I'm not seeing the second shaft?


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

tabora said:


> I guess I'm not seeing the second shaft?


The diagram is showing the split pulleys, # 25, # 26, held in place with bolt # 3, and washer # 24, for the drive power to the wheels. The drive pulley halves, # 22, are the drive pulleys for the impeller. Although the shaft isn't shown on the engine, it sure looks like a dual shaft setup to me. MTD parts diagrams sometimes leave out some details.


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

TX610 said:


> A guy brought me a Troy built storm with drive weird drive issue. Model 31AS6R72063 Ser: 1G163B10394 This snow blower was worked on by someone else and somehow now the drive speeds work backwards there is now 6 reverse and 2 forward. before I tear into this machine I wanted to see if anyone could possibly know what the guy could have done for this to happen? also was told the engine was changed
> The engine this snowblower has is like the one on the right on diagram
> I have no idea what the original engine was. I'm assuming Troy Built used 2 different
> engines on this model. any real help would be appreciated.
> View attachment 189228


Please post a photo of what you're working with, so we can see what you have.


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

VaSnowfighter said:


> MTD parts diagrams sometimes leave out some details.


You may be right. As an owner of an 8hp dual shaft I've looked into repowering options so my first reaction to the OPs problem was same as others, but didn't see the dual setup in the diagrams either.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

The speed would also be twice as fast, if not adjusted for the cam to crank speed


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

Oneacer said:


> Yeah, lol . .... very simple, someone put a single shaft engine on a machine that came with the dual shaft ...
> 
> Good luck with that one, .... you might be able to mirror image the drive system, but that can be very difficult or about impossible even on some machines.


Dual shaft engine. I'm looking at diagram I don't see a dual shaft engine. Maybe you have a better picture?


VaSnowfighter said:


> The diagram on the right is showing a dual shaft engine, which you state in on the unit. It sounds like the original engine was a single shaft, and was replaced with a dual shaft. The wheel drive is powered from the camshaft extension on dual shaft engine machines, instead of the crankshaft. That it is running backwards makes sense. To get everything rotating in the correct direction, you'll need to move the friction wheel to the other side of the drive disc, and obtain a shifter rod for a dual shaft machine.


Really! Damn that's strange. Thanks a million.


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

TX610 said:


> Dual shaft engine. I'm looking at diagram I don't see a dual shaft engine. Maybe you have a better picture?
> 
> Really! Damn that's strange. Thanks a million.


Can you post a photo, so we can see what you're dealing with? Does the current engine have one, or two shafts on the PTO end?


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

VaSnowfighter said:


> Can you post a photo, so we can see what you're dealing with? Does the current engine have one, or two shafts on the PTO end?


Yes I can do it tomorrow. I did pull the belt cover off. The engine has just the crank shaft. Thanks


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

TX610 said:


> Yes I can do it tomorrow. I did pull the belt cover off. The engine has just the crank shaft. Thanks


Ok, Now we're getting somewhere. It won't be all that difficult to reverse the direction of the machine. Actually fairly easy.

Is this a straight axle machine, with the lynch pin on the right wheel to lock the axle? Or is this a machine with trigger steering? That will make a difference as to what shift lever needs to be used, as everything will need to be flipped left to right (mirror image), including the shift lever, that engages the friction wheel hub. 

Assuming this machine originally had a dual shaft engine. If so, the pinion, and driven gear should be on the left side of the machine, and the friction disc runs on the right side of the platter, when running in the forward direction. If trigger steered, the primary chain should be on the right side of the machine, and the friction disc will run on the left side of the drive platter, when running in the forward direction.

Can you post a photo of the drivetrain, along with a photo of the engine belt setup?


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Please. And the bottom assembly. I have a feeling we are going to be surprised. Good but still a surprise


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

VaSnowfighter said:


> Ok, Now we're getting somewhere. It won't be all that difficult to reverse the direction of the machine. Actually fairly easy.
> 
> Is this a straight axle machine, with the lynch pin on the right wheel to lock the axle? Or is this a machine with trigger steering? That will make a difference as to what shift lever needs to be used, as everything will need to be flipped left to right (mirror image), including the shift lever, that engages the friction wheel hub.
> 
> ...


It does have hitch pins. I work nights so tomorrow midmorning I'll take some pictures for you.


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

TX610 said:


> It does have hitch pins. I work nights so tomorrow midmorning I'll take some pictures for you.


Here are pics.


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

TX610 said:


> Here are pics.
> View attachment 189380
> View attachment 189381
> View attachment 189380
> View attachment 189381


Take a look at the drivetrain on your machine. It looks like the transmission is set up for a dual shaft engine. I've attached a photo of a dual shaft transmission. If yours looks like the one in the photo, it's a fairly simple process to change it. I'll flip the one I have on the parts chassis, and post some photos later today, so you can see what it needs to look like to get it running in the correct direction.


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

VaSnowfighter said:


> Take a look at the drivetrain on your machine. It looks like the transmission is set up for a dual shaft engine. I've attached a photo of a dual shaft transmission. If yours looks like the one in the photo, it's a fairly simple process to change it. I'll flip the one I have on the parts chassis, and post some photos later today, so you can see what it needs to look like to get it running in the correct direction.
> View attachment 189403


@ TX610

Attached are photos showing what you should have, after flipping things around.

Here's the dual shaft transmission setup from the factory. You do not need to remove the roll pin at the gear. The axle will come out of the right side when disassembled. It will be reassembled from the left side. You may need to dress the area at the pin holes, to remove any burrs, so the gear will slide off of the axle shaft. Everything will be a mirror image when reassembled.










The shift lever will need to be changed out to a lever from a wheeled machine with powered steering, or a machine with tracks. As you can see, the shift lever is a mirror image. The part number is 6840014B0637, and is available from Jack's Small Engines for $37.58.

Or, if you have a welder, you could cut the dog leg off of the original shaft, cut the pin off, drill it, flip it over and weld it back as needed, using a bolt for the pin. Since this would result in the shaft being shorter, you would need to trim the tube, for the lever that fits onto the shaft, that connects to the shifter rod from the dash panel. You'll also need to keep the alignment of the drilled / threaded part of the shaft, for the lever the shift rod from the dash attaches to.

The reason for a different shift lever is that everything runs in the same direction on the units with powered steering / tracks that use drive chains, where on a geared unit, the driven shaft runs in the opposite direction of the shaft providing the power. The original shift lever, part # 68404243, is no longer available.










Here is the assembly, in the sixth gear position, with the friction disc fully to the left. Note that the shift lever, that the rod from the dash attaches to, is now180 degrees from where it was previously.










Here is the position of the friction disc, when positioned in reverse 2. The disc now resides on the right side of the drive platter.










You will need to modify the bracket the drive platter is attached to. Since the gearing is now on the right side, the clutch cable will need to be relocated. The easy way would be to install another bracket for the drive platter, that has the cable attachment in the 5 o clock position. The part number is 6840131A0637, and is no longer available. You can take a piece of metal, with a 90 degree bend, and bolt it to the existing drive platter bracket. You will need to split the machine, and remove the drive platter in order to drill holes, and attach the metal. Before drilling holes in the drive platter bracket, attach the cable to the metal elbow, and align the cable, with the drive platter bracket in place, so it doesn't rub on the axle. It's a tight fit, even for factory installations.

The photo below shows the routing for the cable. The clutch cable pulley bracket will need to be relocated, and a slot cut in the belly pan for the cable to pass through.



















You will also need to put the adjustment nut / turnbuckle, on the other side, of the gear selector, to prevent binding, since the lower lever is now on the right side, instead of the left.


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## VaSnowfighter (Dec 20, 2021)

@ TX610

Keep in mind, the ground speed may be faster than desired, due to the friction platter being driven at twice the normal speed, due to being driven by the crankshaft, instead of the camshaft. It looks like the unit has 6 inch tires, and possibly a smaller drive pulley on the crankshaft, so you may be ok as far as speed. If it's too fast, you'll need to install the larger 8 1/4 inch drive platter, along with it's bracket. Installation of the larger drive platter would involve some slight modification to the bracket, in order to install it. You'll also need to install a longer belt.


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

Great picture. Yea this doesn't


VaSnowfighter said:


> @ TX610
> 
> Attached are photos showing what you should have, after flipping things around.
> 
> ...


Thanks a million. I'll just buy the shift rod 37.00 isn't going to kill the bank. Yea The guy that brought me this seemed a little vague on details of why he went this route before bringing it to me. I ask him about the original motor and he said he doesn't know what happened with it. Anyway may take me a while. I'll let you know how it goes. I just got done with 2 craftsman 24 inch. You went to a lot of trouble for me I'm grateful.
look that hard. Heck it beats fixing drive fork on a ariens. I appreciate you taking time to help me.


VaSnowfighter said:


> @ TX610
> 
> Keep in mind, the ground speed may be faster than desired, due to the friction platter being driven at twice the normal speed, due to being driven by the crankshaft, instead of the camshaft. It looks like the unit has 6 inch tires, and possibly a smaller drive pulley on the crankshaft, so you may be ok as far as speed. If it's too fast, you'll need to install the larger 8 1/4 inch drive platter, along with it's bracket. Installation of the larger drive platter would involve some slight modification to the bracket, in order to install it. You'll also need to install a longer belt.


Thanks I can tell you know these like the back of your hand! LOL


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## TX610 (Jan 15, 2021)

VaSnowfighter said:


> @ TX610
> 
> Keep in mind, the ground speed may be faster than desired, due to the friction platter being driven at twice the normal speed, due to being driven by the crankshaft, instead of the camshaft. It looks like the unit has 6 inch tires, and possibly a smaller drive pulley on the crankshaft, so you may be ok as far as speed. If it's too fast, you'll need to install the larger 8 1/4 inch drive platter, along with it's bracket. Installation of the larger drive platter would involve some slight modification to the bracket, in order to install it. You'll also need to install a longer belt.


took me a while because of weather but I finally got the drive apart. it's really easy.ready to put every thing in back together. I'm going to put a new friction wheel rubber on there only $15.65 . the shift shaft was quite easy to modify. just thought I'd update the progress. so far.


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