# Auger and drive cable tension / engagement



## Vincent_Diesel (Feb 15, 2016)

As I write this, my new Deluxe 24 is sitting in the shed waiting to be fired up for the first time. I put it together after transporting it and it sat in the shed the last 36 hours in sub zero temperatures (-20 degrees). 

I have very limited experience with snowblowers but I do notice something quite strange, or is it?

The auger cable tension seems taut from the factory, and with minimal slack. When I engage the auger handle it "doesn't seem" to pull the lever it is attached to, which should engage the auger pulley — right? The lever movement is minimal, at best. That being said, the drive cable also seems taut from the factory as well, but when I engage the drive handle I "barely see" any cable being pulled through the plastic cable pulley. Again, cable movement "seems" minimal.

From the factory I assume that Ariens check the tension of these cables. I notice that on both cable ends there are springs attached to their respective counterparts. I assume this is for the correct amount of tension when engaging the auger and drive. I don't see the springs stretching at all when squeezing both handles. 

Is my new machine quite simply frozen, and in need of higher temperatures to operate properly? Or does the machine need to be running for both cables to engage the drive and auger properly? Or do I need to tighten the cables more? I guess ultimately I need to start it up and check for proper operation, but I'd rather check with y'all first before putting in gas, and then wait for some snow as the fuel sits in my carb. Rather not do that in case machine needs to go back to dealer.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

You really do need to start it up and see how things are working. 
Make sure it is in neutral when you start it

If the auger cable is too tight, you might find that the auger spins without holding down the handle. That's bad.

If you put it in gear and it moves without the handle being depressed, also bad. 

If nothing moves, then try the auger, make sure it spins with the handle depressed, and stops when the handle is releases. Same with the drive handle.

If adjustments are needed, look through the manual and follow the directions and you should be good.


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## Vincent_Diesel (Feb 15, 2016)

Ok thank you. I'll start it tomorrow to see. Dumb question but neutral is when the drive handle aren't engaged right? Didn't notice a neutral setting on my deluxe 24.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Vincent_Diesel said:


> Ok thank you. I'll start it tomorrow to see. Dumb question but neutral is when the drive handle aren't engaged right? Didn't notice a neutral setting on my deluxe 24.


There should be a lever to select forward and reverse speeds. Between forward and reverse there should be neutral. Before starting, read the manual thoroughly and become familiar with the engine controls, starting procedure, forward and reverse functions, auger control, chute controls, etc. 

Also, be sure to check the engine oil before starting. Some machines are shipped with very little oil in them, and if you run it low on oil, and seize the engine, it not going to be covered by warranty. 

As far as gas, does your machine have a fuel shutoff? Is it does, turn it off when you are done working or testing, and let the engine run until it stalls when the gas in the carb is used up. Just put enough gas in the tank to do your testing. If all is good, then fill it up with fresh fuel with a stabilizer suited for ethanol gas, if that's what you have to use. Drain the tank at the end of the season, and the carb, so you don't have problems next year.

Keep the kids and pets at a safe distance


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Welcome to the forum! 

Your descriptions admittedly have me a bit puzzled. You say the cables already seem rather taut, but there is not much movement at the "business" end, and that the springs are not stretching. Even if the levers couldn't move far, I'd have expected to see some stretching of the springs, if the slack is already taken out of the cables. 

But like everyone said, check the oil level, then start it up, and see how it actually behaves. This may be a case of being worried about nothing, hopefully. Maybe there is not supposed to be much movement of the cables, and therefore not much stretching of the springs. 

My Ariens machines are older, but mine don't explicitly show a Neutral position for the transmission, just different Forward and Reverse speeds. If yours doesn't have Neutral, I'd probably put it in 1st gear Forward. Make sure that there is room for the machine to move safely in whichever transmission direction you select, whether Forward or Reverse. Just in case the transmission is already engaged. If the transmission was not actually releasing (that is, if the cable was too tight already), I expect it would be difficult to roll the machine with the engine off.

skutflut's advice about gas, and using the fuel shutoff, is definitely good. But if you have fuel stabilizer available already, I would add stabilizer to a fresh can of gas, and put that in the tank. Even if you're just adding a little bit of gas to let you test-start it. I immediately add stabilizer to all the gas I buy for my equipment (I use Marine Sta-Bil at the moment). If you don't have stabilizer, and need to run it, then I'd just do what skutflut said, of course.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Vincent_Diesel said:


> Ok thank you. I'll start it tomorrow to see. Dumb question but neutral is when the drive handle aren't engaged right? Didn't notice a neutral setting on my deluxe 24.


There is not an actual notch for the neutral positon, but there is a space between the notches for forward speed 1 and reverse speed 1. If you put the gear selector in that area you should be in a kind of limbo state between forward and reverse.

The idea is to avoid having the machine jump forward or backward when you start the engine, if by chance the clutch cable is too tight and the drive is actually engaged without the drive handle depressed.


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## Vincent_Diesel (Feb 15, 2016)

Thanks for the help everyone.

Fired it up this morning with a fresh tank of Ultra 93 and Stabil. Went through the procedure and fired up on the 5th pull — I assume it was just too cold this morning and/or engine just needs to break in. 

After a few minutes I ran the auger under no load for about 10-15 minutes till the gas ran out, engine just purred. Based on what I've been reading this seats the belts properly.

The drive seems to be working fine, although the cable pull doesn't seem to be as much as my old, but now retired Craftsman. Tighter tolerances with these newer machines I suppose. The auger certainly engages but it most definitely feels like a short throw light switch. When I engage the handle about 1/4 of the way, I hear a thunk and auger engages. I guess this is just how newer machines engage. The cable definitely feels tighter than I'm used to and I'm inclined to give it some slack but if I do that my gut tells me it won't engage. I'll periodically check. At this point I am overthinking this, it's just it's different from my 10 year old Craftsman with cable slack to boot.

Gonna leave it for now but I do appreciate the help y'all. Now I'll wait for some snow.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Awesome, I'm glad it seems to be working OK. 

Personally, I guess I'd rather have the auger/drive engage earlier in the handle pull, rather than later in the handle pull. If it just barely engaged (finally started turning when the handle was almost fully squeezed), you might be more likely to have belts slip, which can damage the belts. 

Rather than simply going by a feeling, I'd check the manual to see how the cables are supposed to be adjusted. You can download your manuals here: 

Ariens Order Owners Manuals

I've gotten my owner's, parts, and service manuals there. 

I'd expect the owner's manual would list how to adjust the cables, but if it doesn't, the service manual would cover it.


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## brickcity (Jan 23, 2014)

sounds like everything is good. my machine also has that 'thunk' sound when you depress the auger and seemingly over tight cables set from factory


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Vincent_Diesel;
Gonna leave it for now but I do appreciate the help y'all. Now I'll wait for some snow.[/QUOTE said:


> Glad everything is working well.
> By the way, didn't you hear the news? There will be no more snow in MA this year, at least not enough to break out the snowblower.


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## Drifty (Apr 29, 2014)

Well, If your Deluxe 24 is like my Deluxe 28, this is how the Auger and Drive wheels engage.

Auger: When you press the lever on the grip, it moves the tension wheels against the auger belts that drive the auger.

Drive Wheels: When pressing the drive lever it swings the swing plate into the tension wheel on the axle. The swing plate has a belt running from it to the motor.


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## Vincent_Diesel (Feb 15, 2016)

skutflut said:


> Glad everything is working well.
> By the way, didn't you hear the news? There will be no more snow in MA this year, at least not enough to break out the snowblower.


Yeah I have a hunch we are done this season. Trailing record snowfalls from previous year (120+ inches) I thought I'd be prepared this year with this new Ariens—Old Craftsman manhandled that blizzard and quite sad to retire it.

I grew up in Brampton just SE of your neck of the woods BTW. Hello!


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## Vincent_Diesel (Feb 15, 2016)

Drifty said:


> Well, If your Deluxe 24 is like my Deluxe 28, this is how the Auger and Drive wheels engage.
> 
> Auger: When you press the lever on the grip, it moves the tension wheels against the auger belts that drive the auger.
> 
> Drive Wheels: When pressing the drive lever it swings the swing plate into the tension wheel on the axle. The swing plate has a belt running from it to the motor.


What I love about the Ariens Deluxe (Did get to check out a Husqvarna from neighbors) is that it really is a simple design, no bells and whistles that I don't need (hand warmers), looks like maintenance is easier and the legacy of these machines are proven.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I was always a bit skeptical of handwarmers, myself  Here in MA, most of the time when it snows, it's not also super-cold. I've gotten along fine without them for years. 

But last winter was my first season with handwarmers. And we had a bunch of cold storms, some with decent wind. I have to say, I suddenly really appreciated having them. I tried starting out with them turned off for one storm, and my fingers were really getting cold, then flicked a switch and it was fine. 

For anyone curious, some machines come with enough alternator power to run handwarmers even if they aren't installed, and there are threads on SBF about getting (snowmobile?) handwarmers for really cheap (about $10 or less) off eBay. Then wiring them up to the alternator, and off you go. 

See this thread: 
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/15737-need-heated-hand-grips.html

One person said his alternator didn't have enough power to run his light *and* heated grips. So he installed a switch to select either powering the light, or the heated grips, or neither. So if you had a light already, that might be a way to at least have an option for warm fingers, if you could get by without the light.

An example listing that ships from the US, for $6.50: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...ash=item48888f061e:g:RiwAAOSwhcJWJv6G&vxp=mtr


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## Vincent_Diesel (Feb 15, 2016)

RedOctobyr said:


> I was always a bit skeptical of handwarmers, myself  Here in MA, most of the time when it snows, it's not also super-cold. I've gotten along fine without them for years.
> 
> But last winter was my first season with handwarmers. And we had a bunch of cold storms, some with decent wind. I have to say, I suddenly really appreciated having them. I tried starting out with them turned off for one storm, and my fingers were really getting cold, then flicked a switch and it was fine.
> 
> ...


Interesting read. Do you know if the Ariens hand warmer kit bolts on directly? with no modifications? The price of the kit doesn't seem too bad.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Vincent_Diesel said:


> Interesting read. Do you know if the Ariens hand warmer kit bolts on directly? with no modifications? The price of the kit doesn't seem too bad.


I don't know, sorry. I would start by looking for any "empty" wires with plugs coming from the engine. Wherever the power comes from for your light (assuming it has one), see if there's a second, unused cable coming from the engine. 

It's possible the engine could have another power cable that's not used, which would make things easier. If it doesn't, you'd need to tap into the existing power cable to add heated grips.


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