# Oil requirements



## RickR90s (Dec 7, 2017)

I have a 2001 Ariens 520 blower with the Tecumseh 5hp motor. 
Can someone recommend an oil type (sorry, I know it's an oil question) and the amount to fill after an oil change?

Thanks, 
RickR90s


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

5 w 30 5 hp is just over a pint ,fill to the full mark on the fill plug


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I would only use synthetic because of ease if starting if you keep it in a shed, however it's a low compression engine so either way it will be easy to start.

It will take no more than 3/4 of a quart.


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## sciphi (May 5, 2014)

5w30 synthetic, and I generally fill to the middle of the fill port, which is about 1/2 quart. The syn oil will help with cold starts.


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

1/2 to 3/4 quart, start with 1/2 and see where its at on the dip stick. 5W30 Full synthetic. Brand is not really important.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

supertech 5w30 conventional is what i would use, i use it in every snowblower i service


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

never put syntech oil in any old high mileage or high hour motor, it's use is long known to soften oil seals cause a motor to start burning oil by wiping off any sludge that might be helping the rings seat allow oil to start being pulled past worn valve guides 
these old motors were made for conventional oil stay with it , their OM's state 5 w30 below 32 degs above 32 10 w30, above 50 straight 30 w
and another for that walmart supertech, good oil at a cheap price


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## DuffyJr (Oct 15, 2015)

My 1995 5hp Tecumseh takes exactly 20oz's. I'd also stick with 5w30 conventional.


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

87 powershift said:


> never put syntech oil in any old high mileage or high hour motor, it's use is long known to soften oil seals cause a motor to start burning oil by wiping off any sludge that might be helping the rings seat allow oil to start being pulled past worn valve guides
> these old motors were made for conventional oil stay with it , their OM's state 5 w30 below 32 degs above 32 10 w30, above 50 straight 30 w
> and another for that walmart supertech, good oil at a cheap price


Old wives tale, proven to be not true by countless experts in the field.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

GoBlowSnow said:


> Old wives tale, proven to be not true by countless experts in the field.


 if the service history is well known, proper oil for the motor was used, changed properly, then it becomes what you call a old wife's tale, sadly many believe what they want to from the internet where way to many sellers state what they want too trying to sell their product , many times it's pure bull


if one knows the proper service history of the motor it's normally ok to change to


if it's a used car or machine with a unknown service history don't change to syntech , it's well known syntech oil has much higher detergents then dyno oils, it's a well known fact that it will loosen sludge deposits in any motor .many times causing the oil pump pickups to clog up. 


example just 2 weeks ago, used machine comes in ohv kohler twin. new owner unknown service history, unknown hours.
compliant 
owner states I just got this machine and changed the oil and used syntech oil . now it's oil light is staying on, no abnormal engine noises 

inspection
check oil pressure, found under spec at test rpm, sludge found under fill cap .possible clogged oil pump pickup, 


issue found,
heavy sludge deposits in engine broken loose by strong detergents in oil braking loose the heavy deposits clogging oil pump pick up 
repair
R&I engine mineral oil flush top end sludge down to into oil pan, R&I oil pan, detergent clean inside of block, clean oil pan, inspect bearings, replace oil pump and pickup reassemble engine


bill
$375.00 
5 hours shop time, 2 gallons mineral oil. new oil pump and pickup new lower main seal


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

That’s a good point that synthetic oils and their superior detergents can cause built up sludge too loosen and contaminate the oiling system. On modern vehicles Sludge issues show up most often in VVT and DOD/AFM problems. 

Small engines used in snowblowers and many other applications use splash lubrication. No pressurized lubrication through the use of a pump. 

The main cause of leaking oil seals is hardening not softening. Synthetics are attributed for causing oil leaks but that’s usually because the seal is compromised to begin with.

Conventional oil contains molecules of various sizes usually on the large side. Synthetic oil molecules are highly controlled to be uniform and smaller in size then their conventional counterparts. Using the exact same old seal a synthetic oil is more likely to leak, where as the conventional oil would show light seepage. 

All that being said, I like 5w-30 synthetic blend. I use blend in all of my small engines, but Some get an additional splash of zddp.


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## Cardo111 (Feb 16, 2015)

Good info on oils in this thread. Switching to synthetic after using dyno/conventional oil for a long time is just asking for an oil leak.


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## 10953 (Sep 4, 2017)

drmerdp said:


> That’s a good point that synthetic oils and their superior detergents can cause built up sludge too loosen and contaminate the oiling system. On modern vehicles Sludge issues show up most often in VVT and DOD/AFM problems.
> 
> Small engines used in snowblowers and many other applications use splash lubrication. No pressurized lubrication through the use of a pump.
> 
> ...


another good point dr. seeing your conversion thread with that red C2 in the background you know well about that issue so i'm the same here with adding zddp,

that's something us old time hot rod/classic car lovers well know about with our old flat tappet cammed motor's, that zinc was the additive that keeps flat tappet camshafts from whipping out. helped seal the rings, sadly i've lost many a camshaft in several of my hotrods from lack of. anyone care to change a cam in a 70 chevelle ss 454? not so easy in the frame, yes the timing cover can come off, highly likely it will leak from the rubber lip seal between the cover and oil pan which can not come off in frame,even if one knows to clip off the corner tips of the inner lip of the cover.

back to old motors. i also keep several bottles of lead substitute for motors made back in the days of leaded gas where the valves and seats were kept lubed by it, those motor today will suffer valve and seat burns pretty fast
so i add Motor Medic Lead Substitute i get from tractor supply https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/motor-medic-lead-substitute-for-off-road-use-12-oz-bottle


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## Blackjack (Apr 17, 2021)

RickR90s said:


> I have a 2001 Ariens 520 blower with the Tecumseh 5hp motor.
> Can someone recommend an oil type (sorry, I know it's an oil question) and the amount to fill after an oil change?
> 
> Thanks,
> RickR90s


Oil capacity for the 5 hp is 21 US ounces or 620 ml. Recommended SAE 5w30 for winter or SAE 30 summer


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I use 5W30 *Full Synthetic* in all my small engines.


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## Blackjack (Apr 17, 2021)

oneacer said:


> I use 5W30 *Full Synthetic* in all my small engines.


Full synthetic is good providing you change at regular intervals and do not run for short periods of time.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Blackjack,

Never heard that one .......


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

So you are still using dino oil?

I have been using Full Synthetic since for like ever ......


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

??


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Easy Blackjack... we try to get along here. 🍻


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Blackjack said:


> I'm sure you've used that in your hair often.


Wow, seriously? You just rode into town, threw open the saloon doors, and started shooting? You may want to tone down your posts, for the moderators DO have M134 Miniguns...


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

tabora said:


> Wow, seriously? You just rode into town, threw open the saloon doors, and started shooting? You may want to tone down your posts, for the moderators DO have M134 Miniguns...


Aye... they're mounted in the nose of the SBF jet. Controls are remote via video, and right next to the bar. 😁


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

Dino for me.
An oil is speced at a certain temperature and has to have a certain viscosity at that temperature..then we have cranking pressure at specified temperatures.

Where synthetic used to shine was when we went below those specs..but there were upper end Dino oils that did just as well.

Dino oil is about refinement refinement refinement...a highly refined Dino oil will beat synthetics in extreme conditions...you will find Dino oil used in those extreme conditions. 

I am not buying highly refined Dino oil as I will be changing that oil before the viscosity index improvers have been chewed up anyway

Used oil analysis of synthetic vs Dino for wear are pretty much the same.

Synthetic can go out of spec with mileage just like Dino..the synthetic actually thickens...cheap Dino thins as the viscosity index improvers are chewed up..
Better Dino oils can have the better medium and stay in spec longer...as by using to much viscosity index improvers leans to thinner oil with usage...but an overly refined oil having little viscosity index improvers can thicken when subjected to the combustion engine..just like the synthetic.



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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Well this is a 3+ year old thread so I'm just guessing but I'm pretty sure the OP has already made his choice on oil weight, brand, quantity and where to purchase so there isn't a lot to gain by beating the sleeping horse.
Everyone has their favorites.

.


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