# 724 38050 1978 running problem



## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

Hello all - I posted a note on the other thread (unknown snowblower age - new to forum) saying i was starting this thread to get some help (all the help on the other thread was great in helping me). What i have now is that the snowblower started, ran while using the drive wheels, and while using the blower, for about ten feet and then died. now the engine starts and runs, but dies out after about ten seconds, like out of gas. repush primer, close choke, pull start, runs then dies. thinking that i need to get rebuild kit for carb - any suggestion? I took some photos (as suggested in other thread) but need to know how to get them on the forum in this thread.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

I would crawl up in that whole fuel system. to see what is going on. might be a float or just a carb rebuild. see the paper clip up top of this thing. you can take pics off of your system. some one else can explain it better than me.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

+1 

It seems as though carb rebuild, new fuel lines, fuel filter, shutoff is almost always needed when buying used equipment. 

I use photobucket for sharing pictures. Open an account, create a library for your 724 pics, drop photos into the library, copy the text in the "IMG" field and paste it into this field


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello Tex. Try loosening the gas cap and see if it continues to run. You may have a clogged vent in the cap and preventing fuel flow.


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## pcfithian (Mar 3, 2014)

Put a Predator 212 on it. They are less than $100 right now. It will be a much better machine.


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

I will be getting a carb rebuild kit, primer hose (this one is hard and has kink that won't come out), and gas cap filler (or gas cap) since this looks saturated. Checked flow through to carb (with bowl off) to check hoses and shutoff valve, and had full flow - so thanks for the recommendations. As to a "Predator 212", I don't know what that is (carb or engine I assume) since I never heard that name. I looked for a "paper clip" (assuming this is how to attach pictures) but did not see it anywhere. I have the pictures on my computer now (had problems uploading to Photobucket from cell phone so put on computer) so I will upload them to this thread, if I can find out how to do that.


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

Forgot to ask another question in last posting - when the snow was coming out of the chute (for the little bit of running time at full throttle with wheels in forward position 2), it was only thrown about 3 feet from machine - what do I need to check to increase the throwing distance?


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

The predator that pcf is referring to is an overhead valve engine from Harbor Freight. It can be a contentious topic mainly due to the political nature (stolen technology, chinese "labor laws", patriotism, etc.) however guys have been having great success repowering with them despite their low cost.

Unless there's a hole in the side of your block and/or the cylinder bore is hosed, stay the course and resolve the fuel delivery issues. Get it running and see how it performs. Kinked primer line can be a big deal if you don't have a dedicated vent hole on the side of the carb; it would mean that you'd create a vacuum in the carb bowl which needs to stay at atmospheric pressure.

What part of photobucket is giving you trouble?


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## pcfithian (Mar 3, 2014)

See this thread regarding installation of a Predator 212 on a Toro 724: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/#/forumsite/20674/topics/18921

It will make a large improvement in performance, throwing snow 20+ feet with ease. Much easier to start as well.


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## 762mm (Dec 22, 2014)

Probably not it, but the engine on my 826 dies if I don't press on one of the switches on the handles whenever the auger is engaged (the ones that look like brake levers on a bike). 

It's a safety feature that cuts spark if not pressed down... because that auger is deemed dangerous, it would seem!


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

Tex said:


> Forgot to ask another question in last posting - when the snow was coming out of the chute (for the little bit of running time at full throttle with wheels in forward position 2), it was only thrown about 3 feet from machine - what do I need to check to increase the throwing distance?


check the belts on your 724 tex


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

pcfithian said:


> Put a Predator 212 on it. They are less than $100 right now. It will be a much better machine.


+1 if the rest of the machine is good this will be great.


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

OK thanks to ya'll for the educational responses - predator engine (will hold off for now), kinked primer line (will replace line), and handle lever grounding circuit (checked that and made sure that auger was disengaged). Also, as to picture posting, still didn't find access point in forum (paperclip symbol?) - going to try to access photobucket from computer (instead of cell phone) and will advise when have pics transferred there and ready to send to forum.


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

Just remembered someone said to check the belts (re thowing snow short distance) - will check adjustment as to manual and notes I read here on forum about someone adjusting the belts. Again, thanks.


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

Finally had a chance to get back - replaced the primer hose, still waiting on carb kit, and checked the auger belt. Found a lot of slack in auger belt so will be getting another one, since no adjustment to the engagement pulley. Looked at traction belt and still looks okay and there is room for adjustment there if needed. Getting ready to mount an electric starter, but have a question - there are some recessed round spaces at each bolt hole on engine block. Are these to place washers to shim the starter, so that the starter gear will match the flywheel gear? How do I determine the gear alignment (without trying to engage the starter) - this is a new starter.


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## pcfithian (Mar 3, 2014)

Check the play in the auger shaft bearing. If this is worn out, then the belt will appear loose.


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

With the belt tensioner released, I attempted to move the auger pulley, and found no up-down or side play. The belt, with the tensioner applied, has about one inch of deflection, midway between the auger pulley and the tensioner pulley. The belt is loose enough to have it sitting against the belt guide, when the tensioner pulley is applied. Anyone know the Tractor Supply part number for this belt?


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

seeing that you don't know when the last time the belts were replaced it would be wise to replace them both


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

New Starter! Nice!!!!

I strongly recommend temoving the shroud over the flywheel to make sure the gears mesh properly. I had to bend the tabs on the starter and even grind some of the mounting stub away to get a good bite on mine.


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

Okay on the good advice to replace both belts. I finally figured out how to access the picture album page on this forum, and I have uploaded my pictures to the album. How do I add them to my thread now?


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

If I am understanding classiccat correctly, I am to remove the flywheel housing, then manually advance the starter gear to check the matchup with the flywheel gear. If not a good match, then shim the starter mounting area to matchup.


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

Looked at removing the flywheel housing and noticed that I have to remove the bolts on top of the engine, the two bolts on the lower sides of the housing, disconnect the fuel hose between the shutoff valve and the carb and feed out of the housing. Is there any pointers as to making sure that the recoil pull section goes back on in the correct position on the flywheel? Have to leave for a while and will check back later - again thanks for all the help.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Tex said:


> Looked at removing the flywheel housing and noticed that I have to remove the bolts on top of the engine, the two bolts on the lower sides of the housing, disconnect the fuel hose between the shutoff valve and the carb and feed out of the housing. Is there any pointers as to making sure that the recoil pull section goes back on in the correct position on the flywheel? Have to leave for a while and will check back later - again thanks for all the help.


That should be about it Tex. If the throttle control is also connected to that shroud, get yourself a 1/4" socket to unbolt the entire throttle control assembly...rather than disconnecting the linkages & control cable. You may be able to keep it connected and line-up the starter by just tilting it out. (and not removing the control)..hinging on the throttle control side.

You'll be glad that you took this extra step...making sure that the starter gear is lined-up will give you piece of mind every time you fire it up.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Tex said:


> Anyone know the Tractor Supply part number for this belt?


Toro auger belt number 26-9670 measures 1/2" x 39.8". I would say a 1/2" x 40" (4L400) belt will work.

Toro traction belt number 20-1820 measures 1/2" x 38.8". I would say a 1/2" x 39" (4L390) belt will work.

I don't know the tractor supply numbers. The 4L means the belt is 4/8 of an inch OR 1/2" wide.


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## rapscallion (Dec 29, 2010)

Hey guys, slightly OT, however what grade of gas are you all using ? Regular, mid grade or High test? Or does it even make a difference ?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

rapscallion said:


> Hey guys, slightly OT, however what grade of gas are you all using ? Regular, mid grade or High test? Or does it even make a difference ?


Using 87 octane, preferably ethanol free is all you need for your snow blower. It is always advisable to add fuel stabilizer to the gas when first purchased, not a month or two later.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Octane degrades over time so if you think if you're not going to use it in 4-6 weeks, you may want to spring for higher octane. Personally Ive never noticed a performance difference between 87 and 93 however I only buy in small amounts or dump what I dont use into my truck after a month.


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## rapscallion (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks guys. I've been using 89 octane and never gas that's more than a few day old ( tend to buy when snow is predicted)


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## Tex (Jan 18, 2015)

Got locked out and could not log back in for a while, but back in now. Thanks for the belt part numbers and sizes so I can get them. Also notice the advice on using regular gas but fresh, not old - thanks.


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