# Axle Replacement



## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

I have a hs928 that needs some work. To start, i need to replace the right side transmission axle due to the dreaded hardened pin break. I have yet to open it up but feel confident based on the symptoms. the axle spins the correct direction and varies speed correctly based on the lever position. no track movement can be detected and the machine can be moved easily by hand w/o power. 

is this something a mechanically inclined person can accomplish in a few hours? 
are there any write ups available on the project? how often do you find more damage inside the case with this type of failure? 

Thanks in advance.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Look for the sticky on the Honda Forum about the hydrostatic and right side transmission, you'll find a lot of information regarding that. If doing it for the first time it will take at least a few hours after understanding well how it goes together. You'll need a few parts and gaskets. If any bearings is seized it can take a lot longer.......


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

YSHSfan said:


> Look for the sticky on the Honda Forum about the hydrostatic and right side transmission


Here is the thread

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...servicing-right-hydrostatic-transmission.html


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> Here is the thread
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...servicing-right-hydrostatic-transmission.html


Thanks,

i started to dig into it today. it was the pin on the axle that broke on both sides. there was plenty of dirt intrusion into the grease and rust on the axle. all bearings need replacement but the gears appear to be in good shape. 

time to order some parts, clean the gears/case and punch out the old bearings.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Sled said:


> Thanks,
> 
> i started to dig into it today. it was the pin on the axle that broke on both sides. there was plenty of dirt intrusion into the grease and rust on the axle. all bearings need replacement but the gears appear to be in good shape.
> 
> time to order some parts, clean the gears/case and punch out the old bearings.


Sounds like a good plan.
Take your time and reassemble things as they should inside the gear box (you can also add a grease fitting for periodical lubrication as it's shown on the sticky).
Most Honda genuine replacement parts offer exploded views that show the order of things (besides the info on the sticky thread).


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

i ordered my parts a couple of days ago and got a few extras just in case. i'm unsure if i need to tackle the impeller now or wait until i see it run. the impeller pulley has a noticeable wobble to it but the impeller itself is relatively smooth when rolled by hand. inside the impeller housing you can see where either snow or the impeller itself has removed the paint. if i replace the bearing it seems like i will have to remove the auger, tranny and impeller just to get to the bearing. is there any other way to access the bearing from the back side?


i am also concerned with one of the boss locks, which has been welded to the shaft. there is no shear pin in this location which might spell trouble for the auger tranny if i hit something.

another upgrade i'm considering is a light but undecided on halogen or led.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Sled said:


> i ordered my parts a couple of days ago and got a few extras just in case. i'm unsure if i need to tackle the impeller now or wait until i see it run. the impeller pulley has a noticeable wobble to it but the impeller itself is relatively smooth when rolled by hand. inside the impeller housing you can see where either snow or the impeller itself has removed the paint. if i replace the bearing it seems like i will have to remove the auger, tranny and impeller just to get to the bearing. is there any other way to access the bearing from the back side?
> 
> 
> i am also concerned with one of the boss locks, which has been welded to the shaft. there is no shear pin in this location which might spell trouble for the auger tranny if i hit something.
> ...


On hydrostatic Honda snowblowers removal of augers, gearbox and impeller is relatively easy (as long as thing are not seized).

I would disassemble it and change impeller and auger ends bearings.

When the impeller pulley is removed check the shaft where the bearing mounts, I've seen them wear out when the bearing starts to fail causing play there.

What holds the lock boss to the auger transmission shaft is not a shear pin, the shear pin is the 6mm bolt that holds the auger to the lock boss (post a few pics of the welded part to see if I anyone can give you advice about it).

What I would make sure of is that the augers can spin freely is the shear pins are removed, they tent to seize up if not lubed periodically.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

For the light an 18w LED Cree flood light works fairly well.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

does the axle need to be replaced if the pin breaks ? have never done this before but doing my homework.

there is also a good video on taking off the Honda bucket on you-tube so you can replace that bearing. it's a heck of lot easier than servicing that tranny. 

i wish someone would post a video on you tube on servicing that right side tranny. taking it off and everything else. that's something you want to do right the first time.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> does the axle need to be replaced if the pin breaks ? have never done this before but doing my homework.
> 
> there is also a good video on taking off the Honda bucket on you-tube so you can replace that bearing. it's a heck of lot easier than servicing that tranny.
> 
> i wish someone would post a video on you tube on servicing that right side tranny. taking it off and everything else. that's something you want to do right the first time.


. 

So far it's been relatively easy but requires patience once inside the gear box. If you see rust, plan on using lots of pb break, heat and persuasion. 

Taking getting to the right side tranny was not as tough as it seems. I pulled the two shear pins on the track and slid those off as a unit on both sides. Oh and remember to drain the tank and switch off fuel. 

Look at the side panel bolts to determine what needs to be pulled and in what order. Prior to that you'll remove the foot plate that adjusts height. Also detention the tracks before removing them.

Good luck with the bearings. I got a blind puller for those in the case cover. Use Emory cloth to clean up shafts to help pull bearings off. 

And yes, you'd be better off buying the shaft new for just over $107 online.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> does the axle need to be replaced if the pin breaks ?


Some people remove the old ones and replace them (the base of a drill bit would be good for a pin replacement). 
I think it'd be better to replace the shaft (just shop around for best price).


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

i'll tear into the auger when i get home tonight. my parts should be here tuesday and in preparation i've been rereading the original right side transmission thread. it appears the OP greased between the case and the outer bearing. is this presumably to prevent corrosion between the two? i've always thought you wanted that connection to be solid and the bearing to do the spinning. it may be the case that the grease is unlikely to cause the outer bearing to spin in this application. is this typical for snowblower bearings?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Sled said:


> it appears the OP greased between the case and the outer bearing. is this presumably to prevent corrosion between the two?


That is what I think. If I was doing it I think I'd install the bearings "dry" or maybe with just a very light oil film.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

well, the auger assembly was a piece of cake but the impeller is a different story. the last through bolt closest to the impeller decided to shear off of the head end. unfortunately the bolt is rusted in place as well. i'm soaking in some pb break for tonight. it'd be nice if i could punch it out tomorrow but that's asking a lot. it's a pretty tight area to swing a hammer.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Sled said:


> well, the auger assembly was a piece of cake but the impeller is a different story. the last through bolt closest to the impeller decided to shear off of the head end. unfortunately the bolt is rusted in place as well. i'm soaking in some pb break for tonight. it'd be nice if i could punch it out tomorrow but that's asking a lot. it's a pretty tight area to swing a hammer.


is the 10 mm nut still on? soak that if so and then try to remove.

soaking it should work. i also bang around it a lot with a small hammer. i use a small stubby phillips head screwdriver as a punch and give it a whack.

if that doesn't work you may have to use some heat.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Sled said:


> well, the auger assembly was a piece of cake but the impeller is a different story. the last through bolt closest to the impeller decided to shear off of the head end. unfortunately the bolt is rusted in place as well. i'm soaking in some pb break for tonight. it'd be nice if i could punch it out tomorrow but that's asking a lot. it's a pretty tight area to swing a hammer.


Did you break the 10mm end and the 14mm end as well? If not, use the end that is good to work it back and forth and hopefully it would come out.
If all you have is the 6mm part of the pin then you'll have to remove it by punching it out, or if you can drill it with 1/8" drill bit through its center and it should make it easier to punch it out.
Another option is to try and drill the pin flush with the shaft and disassemble everything than you can deal with removing the pin while you have the pulley and shaft out.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

Got the pin out after some heat and fashioning a long punch from a ******* file. Now I'm stuck on the impeller/pulley shaft. I've soaked it in penetrating oil and heated up to 575 degrees with no success. Ive cut the shaft down and added a heavy duty 3 jaw puller. No luck yet. I just can't find a way to get leverage. Any tricks?


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

Here's a couple other shots while I have some free time to upload photos.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Sled said:


> Now I'm stuck on the impeller/pulley shaft. I've soaked it in penetrating oil and heated up to 575 degrees with no success. Ive cut the shaft down and added a heavy duty 3 jaw puller. No luck yet. I just can't find a way to get leverage. Any tricks?


I have not had to deal with a seized Honda HS impeller yet, but I've had to deal with a few Honda and Yamaha seized augers and a few Ariens impellers.

What had worked best for me is to heat the "tube" part from the impeller or augers and cool them right away with water. Repeat the process a few times and they had come loose and apart.

If you have a welder handy, I'd weld a heavy duty washer to the impeller "tube" and use that as a support for the use of an extractor. Set the tool, then heat the tube where it is seized and apply force with the puller.

As a side note, when you are using heat to free up seized components, the key for success is to heat the outer piece as fast as you can, if it takes too long to heat it the inner component also heats up and expands defeating the purpose.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

She fought the good fight. The were no winners, only losers here. After using nearly every method I could come up with, the end result is a bent impeller and bent pulley shaft. I've considered trying to repair them but don't think I can get it close enough to keep from vibrating the bucket apart.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Sled said:


> She fought the good fight. The were no winners, only losers here. After using nearly every method I could come up with, the end result is a bent impeller and bent pulley shaft. I've considered trying to repair them but don't think I can get it close enough to keep from vibrating the bucket apart.


Sorry to hear to it did not go well.
Putting a lot of force on a thin flange likely ends up bending it, (I've had it happen on cars), that's why I suggested welding a HD washer to the 'tube' to use as a puller support.
Anyways, the damage is done.

For replacement parts if buying new

Honda 22424-768-020 Pulley (198Mm); 22424768020...

Honda 72440-768-000 Blower; 72440768000...

Lately PartsPak (in my experience) has been the best place price-wise for new Honda factory replacement parts.

If considering to buy used, search on the net and see what you can find (I may be getting an HS828 'parts' snowblower over the weekend that should have a good impeller and impeller pulley, but I'm not sure yet).


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

i should have tried that but did not have a large enough washer. i used acid to eat the rust, pb break to loosen it, lots of heat and beat was applied, and a heavy duty 3 jaw puller. i was conflicted on if i should try to relief cut the shaft down the middle and reweld it later. as you said, the damage is done. i could beat it back close but likely not prefect. i need to determine if the pulley shaft is bent or not.

at this point i am happy to have the bucket still in good condition so i can rebuild it with good parts. while i was working on it i was wishing i did not try to replace that blower/impeller bearing. after inspecting the bearing it was clear it had to go. there was a lot of play and it was cracked in half, possibly due to removal methods but poor shape none the less.

partspak and boats.net seem to be close to each other but boats beat it by a couple dollars on this order. if i was buying multiple parts partspak would be the clear winner due to the shipping. my only complaint with boats.net is that erase your cart if you can't load and check out in about 10 minutes.

YSHS, thanks for all the guidance. this has certainly been an experience.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Sled said:


> i should have tried that but did not have a large enough washer. i used acid to eat the rust, pb break to loosen it, lots of heat and beat was applied, and a heavy duty 3 jaw puller. i was conflicted on if i should try to relief cut the shaft down the middle and reweld it later. as you said, the damage is done. i could beat it back close but likely not prefect. i need to determine if the pulley shaft is bent or not.
> 
> at this point i am happy to have the bucket still in good condition so i can rebuild it with good parts. while i was working on it i was wishing i did not try to replace that blower/impeller bearing. after inspecting the bearing it was clear it had to go. there was a lot of play and it was cracked in half, possibly due to removal methods but poor shape none the less.
> 
> ...



interesting thread.
FYI you can create a "wishlist" for parts that will stay until you are ready to order. I do this to obtain free shipping. ( Boats )


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

i'm still in a holding pattern with boats.net. they backordered a part 2 times now and held the rest of the shipment until i called them and requested the other parts be sent. they still have good prices and friendly customer service. just wish the parts came quicker to get this machine together. we've already had enough snow to break it out at least twice now. I'f i can ride the snowmobile then i can surely use the blower.:grin:


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

orangputeh said:


> interesting thread.
> FYI you can create a "wishlist" for parts that will stay until you are ready to order. I do this to obtain free shipping. ( Boats )


I have been using Boats for years and I didnt know about the wish list. Great feature for storing part numbers that are ordered regularly. Boats is the cheapest source for Honda parts for Canada, both price and shipping. Thanks for the info.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Prime said:


> Boats is the cheapest source for Honda parts for Canada, both price and shipping.


Have you tried PartsPak.com, I found out not that long ago that they tend to have better prices than Boats.com.
The other reason I use PartsPak.com is because Boats.com still has no listing on parts for the new HSS series blowers.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

I filled in an order to see the shipping
Honda 28400-Z0Y-013ZA Starter Assembly 
Partspak price $12.34 to Canada $45. USD shipping 
Boats.net shipping price 9.71 ...shipping 7.99 usd

I cant even consider Partspak


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Prime said:


> I filled in an order to see the shipping
> Honda 28400-Z0Y-013ZA Starter Assembly
> Partspak price $12.34 to Canada $45. USD shipping
> Boats.net shipping price 9.71 ...shipping 7.99 usd
> ...


I see. 
In US shipping is very reasonable (IMO). They do not offer free shipping on orders of >$150 (sometimes >$99) like boats, but their price + shipping had turned out to be better than boats with free shipping on a few orders I made and one that I have pending.
Shopping around is the key for me as the price for one part is better on one site but another part may have better pricing at another site. I put the entire order together and see what place is best (sometimes I do buy in more than one place if it makes it more economical).


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

YSHSfan said:


> I see.
> In US shipping is very reasonable (IMO). They do not offer free shipping on orders of >$150 (sometimes >$99) like boats, but their price + shipping had turned out to be better than boats with free shipping on a few orders I made and one that I have pending.
> Shopping around is the key for me as the price for one part is better on one site but another part may have better pricing at another site. I put the entire order together and see what place is best (sometimes I do buy in more than one place if it makes it more economical).


Even with the shipping rates it is still about 50% cheaper to buy honda parts from boats.net than from a dealer in Canada. I would like to support the local dealer but I just cannot. I have 2 blowers and 3 mowers to maintain. Runs into money.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

well it took nearly a month but the blower/impeller finally came. i put her together tonight and will finish her up next week. i'm only lacking the union on the chute control lever, which arrives monday. only took 10 days for this order. that extra $2 for expedited shipping would be well worth it if you could tell when they actually have an item in stock. but again, the price is right. i just need to be a bit more patient. 

repaired:
right side tranny & axle plus bearings
impeller, impeller & auger bearings
new pull start rope and handle
new led lights (flood and spot)

the wiring sure took longer than i would have liked. i tried to wire a switch but just gave up and went direct to the rectifier. 


btw, thanks for all the help. it certainly gives some confidence to tackle these projects.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

has anyone here had rubbing issues with the auger brake hitting the auger pulley? had some sparks flying until i figured it out. after separating the bucket i was able to reassemble with very slight clearance between the brake and pulley when the brake is applied to the belt. it seems to be working for now but i may need to get the grinder out or do some bending if additional clearance is needed.


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

Sled said:


> has anyone here had rubbing issues with the auger brake hitting the auger pulley? had some sparks flying until i figured it out. after separating the bucket i was able to reassemble with very slight clearance between the brake and pulley when the brake is applied to the belt. it seems to be working for now but i may need to get the grinder out or do some bending if additional clearance is needed.


The first time I had one of these apart I had a similar issue. The brake arm got bent when putting the bucket back on. Tried a few different things, grinding, straightening, cutting a piece off. Nothing seemed to work correctly and my auger belts were not lasting. Finally I just gave in and put the new brake arm. $14. Problem solved. Was easier than expected to replace it. Keep in mind the position of the brake arm when you put the bucket on the blower. Make sure its outside the pulley, not against it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Sled said:


> well it took nearly a month but the blower/impeller finally came. i put her together tonight and will finish her up next week. i'm only lacking the union on the chute control lever, which arrives monday. only took 10 days for this order. that extra $2 for expedited shipping would be well worth it if you could tell when they actually have an item in stock. but again, the price is right. i just need to be a bit more patient.
> 
> repaired:
> right side tranny & axle plus bearings
> ...


that right side tranny looked horrible. what did you have to replace in it? I have never attempted servicing this yet. what kind of grease did you use?

this is a good thread. I took my augers and impellers out of my blowers and cleaned, grinded , and applied anti seize grease . have had trouble removing augers before but have been lucky soaking with pb. one took a couple days but it came off eventually.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Sled said:


> has anyone here had rubbing issues with the auger brake hitting the auger pulley? had some sparks flying until i figured it out. after separating the bucket i was able to reassemble with very slight clearance between the brake and pulley when the brake is applied to the belt. it seems to be working for now but i may need to get the grinder out or do some bending if additional clearance is needed.


this machine sounds like the first honda i ever owned. my neighbor gave me his old hs828 that was totally looked like it was never serviced in 25 years.

he was a tinkerer and tried making repairs on it on the cheap, making parts , welding, and using ******* techniques to get it going.

man , that machine was a horror show. i spent so many hours on it rebuilding it . everytime i thought i got it fixed , i would find something else wrong.

finally, i found another machine in pretty good shape and i used this old 828 for parts. but i did gain a lot of experience in the process.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> this machine sounds like the first honda i ever owned. my neighbor gave me his old hs828 that was totally looked like it was never serviced in 25 years.
> 
> he was a tinkerer and tried making repairs on it on the cheap, making parts , welding, and using ******* techniques to get it going.
> 
> ...


i certainly see your point and feel this may be a similar case but hope it's not. I've put all the cash i will into this one. next step will be to sell it and buy a cleaner used honda/yamaha or new ariens.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

Prime said:


> The first time I had one of these apart I had a similar issue. The brake arm got bent when putting the bucket back on. Tried a few different things, grinding, straightening, cutting a piece off. Nothing seemed to work correctly and my auger belts were not lasting. Finally I just gave in and put the new brake arm. $14. Problem solved. Was easier than expected to replace it. Keep in mind the position of the brake arm when you put the bucket on the blower. Make sure its outside the pulley, not against it.


i believe i repeated the same mistake. the brake arm ended up behind the pulley and i had more play in the joint after. i'll run it a bit with the inspection cover off and see how the belt holds up.


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> that right side tranny looked horrible. what did you have to replace in it? I have never attempted servicing this yet. what kind of grease did you use?
> 
> this is a good thread. I took my augers and impellers out of my blowers and cleaned, grinded , and applied anti seize grease . have had trouble removing augers before but have been lucky soaking with pb. one took a couple days but it came off eventually.


i had some rust inside but the main problem was the pin sheared on the axle. mine was solidly in place inside the axle but the ends were missing and ovaled out the gear and axle as well. if not, i might have tried to replace the pin with the back end of a drill bit.

grease/lube:
i used mobile 1 which has a wide temp range with good lifespan. i use it in all my snowmobiles.

auger gear box oil was changed with an 80 weight that i had on hand. the old stuff didn't look good and most of it drained out when the box spun down.

oddly enough, the unwelded side of my augers came apart easily. it was only the blower and pulley shaft that were rusted together. what a PITA all the way around. the new one has a slathering of mobile one on the shaft with new shear pins.

all bearings and shear pins i encountered were replaced and a few washers that were damaged from excessive rust or abrasion.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Did you solve the 'auger brake' issue?
I agree that damage can occur when reassembling the auger housing to the tractor if you do not press the auger belt handle to pull the brake back ank keep it from interfering with the auger pulley. Maybe it got bent...?


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## Sled (Sep 10, 2017)

YSHSfan said:


> Did you solve the 'auger brake' issue?
> I agree that damage can occur when reassembling the auger housing to the tractor if you do not press the auger belt handle to pull the brake back ank keep it from interfering with the auger pulley. Maybe it got bent...?


i've run it a few times w/o snow so far and it seems to be working. the real test will come the first time we get a few feet of snow on the ground. 
i'll take cover off a few a few hours of running to inspect. if the new belt is damaged i'll pull the bucket and replace the brake.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Interesting thread . Having now done 7 or 8 of these now have seen most problems that come up. The first one took me 10 hours. had one take 12 hours because of all the rust and corrosion. I turned down a guy that wanted me to do one because it was an old 828 with lots of rust etc.

my best time was 4-4.5 hours but everything went almost perfect. donyboy73 said he has been able topress in a new pin and it held ( in a video ) but I would not take that chance. for $108 you can get the new axle and 2 new gears set from boats. do it right and you will have another 15-20 years or more on that gearbox. That is why I install the grease fitting into every machine I come across.

Now , before I do this job I soak everything pretty good with penetrating oil for a couple days. also bought a Wen half inch by 18 sander to clean up the axle so the bearings will slide off easier. it can be an expensive job for parts but it's worth it.


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