# We Were Given a 2003 Craftsman 536.887992 9HP 29"



## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

It starts fine and drive and auger work, previous owner said it worked fine.
It seems to make a thunk sound every two feet or so when moving forward.
Need to find the manual, saw a link in another thread, change the oil and see
if it needs anything else.

Seems to be a nice machine.

Any tips appreciated.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Manual from Sears parts site:


https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/25p87umykd-000247/craftsman-536887992-gas-snowblower-parts



Parts:


https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/25p87umykd-000247/craftsman-536887992-gas-snowblower-parts?sid=sem:ggl:DSA+-+Category+-+All+Devices+-+tROAS:76102889465::c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9Z6rwoqR9AIVMdSzCh2rFQ9_EAAYASAAEgLZKPD_BwE


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

Need to look in the belly pan area. Clunk at a repeating distance could be a flat spot on the friction wheel, bad axle bushings, bad sprocket, stuck/dry chain. In my experience working on these Murray designs they have common problems with these caveman basic design "bearings" and the jack shaft or Craftsman commonly calls it just sprocket. Start easy by lifting up on the handle bars and pull on the wheels at each side see if they have a lot of slop up and down, common bushing wear point.
Good luck with your new blower and welcome to the forum.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i would start by pulling the bottom pan. definitely don't use it as is. it sounds like 1 of the chains may be sticking and driving it like that could damage the machine. i had one last year that you could tell animals were living in it. the chain was so bad it had to be replaced. i had originally tried freeing up the old chain but it didn't roll very smoothly with it.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

A thunking sound every 2 ft could be anything?

Start with the front and check everything .... I am sure you will find it, as well as get accustomed to your blower.

A blower 18 years old is bound to need something, especially if it was not maintained.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Thanks everyone, will be working on it soon.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Changed the oil it looked gray, strange.
Removed the bottom pan, and it had mice living in there with lots of stuffing inside.

I said it worked and I was wrong. one side of the auger shaft popped out, a pry bar
got it back in.

The speed selector will not slide and seems to be rusted in place, not sure what is 
freezing it stuck. Cleaned the hex shaft and squrted PBlaster in there. Tried it with
the engine running and not. The drive wheel looks fine.

The auger belt is off probably because it would not spin with the shaft popped, is there
and easy way to get it back on?

Going to read the manual now.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

with the machine in the service position you should be able to see if the belts are where they should be. the friction wheel assembly is likely stuck to the hex shaft. i usually like to give these a tap with a air chisel just to break them free but you could probably get the same result with a hammer and chisel. just make sure whatever your tapping in with the chisel is solid and as close to the hex shaft as possible. also make sure to hit the shaft with some penitrating oil before doing all this so one it starts moving it should continue moving with not effort.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Gray oil is usually water in the oil many times .....

Mice in a snowblower is actually very common ..... its a warm hotel for them ...


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Thanks very much for all the help, getting there slowly.

Just a tip for anyone else having to put the auger drive belt back on, take off the top
belt cover (2 bolts) and then there is a guide that you have to pull away to slip the
belt under.

Was not able to free the wheel, forgot about our very powerful paint stripper for heating
things, going to try that tomorrow.

PBlaster had to soak into the chains, then applied some oil and then some marine
grease. Finally the motion is smooth but stuck in 6th gear.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

I've been unable to free the friction wheel, tried heat, and a hammer but it is hard
to swing the hammer very far. 
I'm going to start taking it apart if there are no other suggestions. Doesn't seem too
bad since it was planned for to remove the friction wheel.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Sounds like that machine needs a pretty good dismantle , cleaning and lube ... as you go, check any bushings and bearings for wear and replace.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

lack of swing space is part of why i like the air chisel. if you take it apart that will definitely help make easier to free up.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Took it apart today and it was very badly rusted. Used an impact socket, hammer and block of wood 
to free it up. Then filed the rust off and treated it with rust converted. The remaining rust turned black.
Lubed it with motor oil and then marine grease, works really well now. Soaked the oilite bearing in 
10W-30 synthetic oil and the wheel bushings.
Put it all back together and noticed that the impeller shear pins were missing. The hardware box
had 1/4" screws that fit - not sure if they are the right thing. The auger has some kind of quick change
shear pins, should those be used for the impeller also?


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Looks like they came with a roll pin, but a bolt will fall out when it breaks and is easier to put in:
The guy is smart to put more of a taper on the roll pin.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would recommend putting back what originally was meant to be there.

Of course anything will work for now, but the original set-up was probably designed for a reason, like keeping tolerances, and not egging the holes, etc.....


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

The skids are badly worn, is there a good source for them at a good price/quality?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Most of my blowers have the Arnold Poly Roller Skids ... I bought them when they were like 22.00 for the pair ..... now they are like 30.00-40.00 a pair ... With the prices of skids going through the roof, I now make my own poly skids....


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Where do you get the raw material?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I had a piece in my "save it, you may need it some day" pile .... many times you can find like an old poly cutting board or similar ....


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Great idea, I actually think we have an old cutting board ready to repurpose and we have a
bench bandsaw so it should be easy.

Just measured the slots are on 2" centers for this Craftsman.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, that is one reason I started making my own, my restored JD is 2 inch on center for the skid bolt pattern ... they dont make them in poly, plus way to costly ....


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Last thing, I hope, is the gear box, it says factory greased nothing for the user to do,
anything to check on it?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Most newer clam shell style ones are filled at the factory ... nothing for the owner to do, unless you have it all apart, you can re-grease it.

I have seen some with a plastic vent plug on top, which you may be able to pry off and get some "00" grease in there, otherwise just leave it for now.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Thanks everyone!
Found that cutting board, it's fairly thick, and made a pair of skids that are now on it.
Just waiting for snow now to try it out!


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Snow came last night about 8" of light stuff.
I started at a speed of 2 and it was only throwing 6' and not much.
Then pushed it up to speed 5 and after a while it threw about 12'.
So it seems that the feed speed has to be high enough.
Then the auger stopped running, the belt might have jumped or broke,
have to open it up to see.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Sounds like a dorfed belt that was slipping, and once it got hot from the slip, it got sticky and did better, but still ultimately failed . . .


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Thanks that makes a lot of sense.
I noticed that the belts are not available anymore on the Craftsman parts site.
Does anyone know of a good replacement?


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Looked closer and the auger shaft popped out again.
Seems I have to bend the housing or shim the bearings closer together.


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## jherbicide (Oct 14, 2021)

Pete B said:


> Looked closer and the auger shaft popped out again.
> Seems I have to bend the housing or shim the bearings closer together.


Was there icy chunks or anything you hit? My old craftsman did that a few times on hidden bowling balls. (something solid got wedged between auger and bucket causing bucket to flex and auger shaft to pop out of bearings.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Not that I noticed, but that makes sense to watch out for, it had just fallen and the street
was not yet plowed so nearly all just slightly wet powder. I did go all the way across the
street and there's about a 2" bump in the tar coming back into the driveway, maybe I have
to lift it going over that. It is a pretty well used machine with a good amount of rust. I'd 
guess that it is slightly bent, but not sure.

Checked the impeller and the blades only have about 1/8" clearance to the housing
so not sure if the mod would make much of a difference. Hoping a new belt will 
help a bit. Also, by ear I think the engine could use 500 more RPM, might tighten
the governor one click.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

I decided to shim the auger bearings on both sides. Used 2 fender washers per bolt.
It seems to be perfect and I'm guessing that the housing is very slightly bent:
I've not figured out how to raise the engine speed.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

This throttle setup looks like ours so giving it a bit more speed should be easy:


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

I would say you should invest in a tach before you over rev the engine and have it blow up. The tecumseh engines don't like being over rev'd. No need to be over 3600rpm and there is definitely no way to tell engine speed by ear unless it is over revving. Over reving is the only thing that is usually a bit more noticable by ear. Plus a tach is about $15 where a new engine is a lot more


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

I had mini bikes with these engines, took a really long time to blow a rod but it can be done.
Your advice is good though.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i still wouldn't risk it. these craftman machine are junk. no amount of rpm will make up for a poorly designed bucket. that rectangular impeller outlet is the biggest limiting factor. the impeller mod helps but it can only do so much. i got one of these sitting at someone elses house and after the first time using it i was already shopping for a replacement but it was cheap and i already had it since i picked it up to flip or part out. i was hoping the impeller mod may have made it nice enough to make me want to keep it but nope. i will likely stick to my Junky MTD's.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

OK we got about 6" of powdery snow and the town already plowed our street.
Now, I've never used a snow blower before, should have watched some instructions.
It is working as good as I think can be expected, blowing consistently about 10' which
is really not enough, 6' more would be great.
Went down the driveway and was about 10' from the pile left by the town snow plow
and must have hit some ice. Bent the auger, broke one auger shear pin and the
impeller shear pin. Live and learn. Straightened everything pretty good, and put in
new shear pins.
Now going down the driveway keeping about 15' from the end, then going across since
the throw is so short.
Problem is there is a strong wind, so trying to go from the center to each side works
great in one direction but it all nearly blows back going in the other. Guess I'll try going
fully across the other way.
My neighbor has a like new Ariens and it blows high and about 20' what a difference!
At least it is working. Auger did not pop out.
Thanks for all the help, it is better than shoveling!


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

the impeller mod might help you get some more distance out of it but the small impeller output still may limit things.

best to blow snow the say direction the wind is blowin if you want to save yourself some snow in the face. also shooting the snow only a couple feet at a time in conditions like this is sometimes needed to keep the snow from blowing around or back onto the driveway.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Sheared another impeller pin.
This thing is a POS, I should probably sell it and buy something better, much better.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

did you use roll pins on the impeller or did you used shear pins? if you are using shear pins that is likely why the impeller keeps breaking free. it is suppose to be have roll pins holding it to the shaft. the augers are the only thing that are suppose to have shear bolts.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

I used the bolts that were in the spares bin, I'll have to buy some roll and shear pins.
The auger has what look like some sort of easy to install quick release pin.


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## ZTMAN (Jan 11, 2018)

Sounds like you are having a challenge. How much did you pay for this fine machine?


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

It was free - a neighbor was moving and said take it, but at this point I might just buy a new one!

The only good thing about this is the 9HP electric start engine that seems to work perfectly.


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

Has the Power Smart brand been discussed on here?
I stumbled onto this video and it really throws FAR in his test:


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## Pete B (Nov 11, 2021)

crazzywolfie said:


> did you use roll pins on the impeller or did you used shear pins? if you are using shear pins that is likely why the impeller keeps breaking free. it is suppose to be have roll pins holding it to the shaft. the augers are the only thing that are suppose to have shear bolts.


OK, so I take it that roll pins are made from hard steel, they look similar to spring steel and shear
pins are made from soft iron, the ones that came with it look like white metal.
I'm too lazy to try and put in a roll pin so I used bolts for the impeller that were in the spares tray,
so it seems that these looking like white metal were not strong enough.
I mentioned previously that the impeller sheared when going even close to the end of the driveway,
the thing is that I didn't think that there was any ice in it and both of my neighbors ran their Ariens
blowers right into it without a problem. 
It's possible that the too soft white metal bolt that I used on the impeller just snapped under a slightly
heavier load. And what's really bad is that once the bolt shears the impeller can move so far forward
on the shaft that it collides with the auger blades and I think that this is what sheared the auger bolts
and bent the auger blades - what a mess.
I used what I had, a stainless steel bolt on the day of the snow when I ran out of the spares and I'm
wondering if this is about the right hardness. I could get a grade 5 bolt from home depot since I 
really don't want the impeller bolt to snap again.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i really don't know much about hardness of roll pins and i generally avoid touching them unless absolutely necessary. i am not sure if grade 5 bolts would be strong enough to replace a roll pin.

shear pins are made of a softer metal and designed to break if for some reason the auger hits something that makes it stop to keep it from damaging the auger gear box.


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