# My recondition of 1968 10M6D



## ashwinearl (Sep 8, 2014)

Hi all. I guess we are never done, but I have reached a stopping point on this 1968 10M6D. Thank you all for your patient answers and wealth of knowledge. 

My story: I am a transplant from Virginia to Central New York and have been anxious of the coming winter. Most dire warnings were that a snowblower is a must and that a little snowblower won't cut it and that 8hp or bigger was minimum. After looking at the new offerings, I was going to go for the value line of Ariens from the HD. 

However, I got sucked into these forums and drawn to the older Ariens, no small part due to the tribute sites and the incredible restorations. A little craigslist trolling and some 'luck' and all of a sudden I end up with not one but two vintage Ariens. I hired a guy to help me haul them and much to my wife's dismay, our garage was now full of two throwers one of which didn't run.

I bought a big wheel 8hp 1971 and a 1968 10M6D from a woman who's husband had passed away 2 years ago. The 1971 didn't run and the 1968 6hp ran barely. In my infinite wisdom, I figured that I could get them both running, sell one and come out ahead.

These types of endeavors rarely work out for me. Mind you, I am have some mechanical inclinations: I work on my bicycles and can change my own oil, and love trolling the aisles at Harbor Freight. In the back of my mind, I could just envision two non-working snowblowers that I would have to pay to get hauled away and having to buy the new one that I should have bought from the beginning.

Fortunately, this story works out better. 

I bought both for $100 and proceeded to first get the 1971 running. I have NEVER worked on small engines before and never knew how carbs worked. Many you tube videos (thank you Donyboy73) and a trip to the local small engine store later, I had a nicely running 8HP Tecumseh! The gas lines were disintegrated and the carb was carmelized.

However, I ran the gas line wrong, and after tooling around in the yard and shutting it down, I had gas pooling up under it. The line was cut by the flywheel. I figure I was just a few minutes shy of it torching in my back yard. I fixed that and also fixed the electric starter and stuck it on craigslist. I was fortunate that the right buyer came along and bought it for full asking of $270. I had seller's remorse as he started it up and it ran like a top.

I opted to keep the 1968 10M6D because it is my birth year and I just liked the smaller size and bucket shape. I got sucked into other forums about the Predator engines and before I knew it, I've got one those in my garage. Yes I know many consider this poor taste, but I think it is just cool that there are so many modifications and hop ups.

Here is a rundown of the recondition:
Replaced:
-belt
-bronze auger bushings
-bronze axle bushings
-tires
-engine
-gear oil
-auger bearing

Paint:
This turned into a fiasco. In hindsight I wish I had taken it somewhere to get sandblasted and used some bondo to fill in the pits. I scraped and used wire brush and angle grinder. I started spraying it with my harbor freight HVLP gun, and made it through priming before it fell apart. I was using the Ace hardware AC orange but wish I had ordered the rustoleum version.

I had seen posts all over about the roll on method of painting a car and decided to go that route rather than deal with spraying. It's a worthy approach but the ACE paint didn't thin well and it orange peeled bad. I ended up rolling it then using a brush to break the bubbles. I was hoping that wet sanding would level it, but it didn't work out as I'd hoped. From a distance it looks ok, but not up close

Method:
-primed with rustoleum rust-stop
-thin with mineral spirits
-roll on one coat in morning, wet sand, wipe down, roll night coat
-repeat 5x
-wet sand 600, 800, 1000, 2000
-I also used some Kubota orange spray.
-Porter cable 7424 Dual action polisher with compound then polish, then finish with hand wax

-Painted inside of chute with the graphite paint

Engine repower:
-predator 212cc engine
-upgrade emulsion tube and slightly bigger jet
-Tried to knock out the studs. It didn't work and I just ended up bending the housing.
-Hacksawed them off, then drilled the holes out
-used 1 1/2 bolts which worked well, because they have a smooth shoulder and could press in place and stay there which made it easier to put the engine one
-pulley placement was very close
-engine cover fit no problems
-lever for engaging the belt was too long and hit the engine. I had to trim it down
-relocating the chute was harder than I expected. I ended up drilling new holes and using lock washers. This also required a new eyebolt for the handle
-The throttle control works but is reversed from the label on the lever

Other:
-greased or anti seized any part removed.
-Clarence impeller kit (just 2 so far. I got tired and once again this was harder than expected)
-ran break in for 3 hrs and changed oil
-lost steam on repainting the arms or name plate or getting some new stickers. But I like the contrast of the peeling chrome against the new orange
-bucket might be bowed a little in the middle as I was having problems setting up the skid plates. We'll see.

Costs:
-hauling
-tires/install
-belt, bushings, bearings
-engine
-upgraded emulsion tube and jet from OMB warehouse
-paint and supplies
-fluids

*EDIT - I listed the original 6HP Techumseh on craigslist and a guy came by who has the exact model year Ariens. His engine died a few years ago in the middle of clearing his driveway. He bought a newer, bigger other brand and has never liked it. He jumped all over this for $50 and will drop it right back into his original one.

Priceless:
-learning
-doing it myself
-Getting each stuck bolt loose, and pressing each bushing out was an adventure. 
-handing my wife $320 in cash after the hearing the commentary with the general gist of are you sure you know what you're doing.

Well I won't gloat till it starts on a sub zero morning and it throws something and will keep you posted


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Sweet! You did a nice job from the looks of it. You ought to be proud.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Looks great, but the math on the $310 doesn't ad up. Is that including the cash you were originally going to spend on a new one?


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Nice job on the resto, looks great. Can't wait for the first snowfall can you?


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## ashwinearl (Sep 8, 2014)

Shryp said:


> Looks great, but the math on the $310 doesn't ad up. Is that including the cash you were originally going to spend on a new one?


I sold the original Tec 6HP for $50 (I edited the post). I was happy. It was beat up and the electric start switch needed work. But it does run and with carb clean will be fine.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

wow, very cool!  nicely done!









Scot


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

Looks great!!! Job well done. So are you looking for your next project yet??


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That really looks nice. Can tell you have a lot of time into it.


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## rnaude241 (Nov 24, 2013)

Great Job on the repower and body work!


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