# how to separate Craftsman blower & replace belts?



## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

can anyone direct me to a good video showing step-by-step how to do this job for a Craftsman blower 1450 series, model 944.522430, 27" blower like mine (see photo)


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

I am coming up blank on that model number other than people asking about the model number.
It doesn't look like usual craftsman (MTD ).. looks like a Husqvarna

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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

They pretty much all split the same.
You seperate the 'tractor' (back) from the front.. should split down the middle with larger bolts holding the two sections together.
Be sure to unhook chute control(s) and any cables necessary before getting started. 

Edit.
Add.

Found this.




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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

944Husqvarna (possibly AYP/Electrolux prior to 2006)
the model code reads that your machine was made by husqvarna so you might want to google for more than shovel found and possibly a copy of the shop manual


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

Thanks! yes, someone mentioned in another thread that they thought the 944 in the model no. signified Husqvarna. Bought it from Sears in 2014.


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

not positive about yours, but most snowblowers you can replace the belts without seperation,

you can do it from underneath with the snowblower in the service position


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

thanks guys.
shovel - started watching that video in post #3. my machine is diffrent (no pivot bolts?).Liked the mechanic though!
and jerry...ya i also googled that that video....that guy is not as "professional" as donnyboy. lol.

just wondering if i cud find instructions more specific to what i have....before i tackle it.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

As far as pivot bolts, they are usually the bottom bolts on the side (bottom)
that you don't remove. That way the auger housing and engine housing "pivot" from each other to gain access for the belts.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

You don't want to remove all those bolts if you don't have to because then it's a challenge to get everything lined back together. Especially if you are working by yourself.


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> just wondering if i cud find instructions more specific to what i have....before i tackle it.


how much more specific do you want?

drive and auger belt replacement is pretty much the same on every craftsman made in the past 30 years or more,

its not a difficult job

i was really just pointing out the fact that you probably don't even need to pivot or seperate the machine


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

yes, thanks. after "googling" a bit I do see that there do appear to be both ways to tackle this job- via the service position, or separating/pivoting the machine.
For the novice (like myself!) which do you think would be the easier way?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

i have done the job both ways, probably 20-30 times or more,

i wouldn't really say either way is easier or faster,

if you pivot the machine, you will need a helper to hold the machine up while you work on the belts,

or you can lean it against a wall ( i have done that before )

i think for yourself i would recommend doing it from underneath (service position)

that way the machine is stable, and you can take your time,

its really not that difficult, once you understand it, 

i can have both belts changed in under 10 mins if i hurried


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

thanks jerry.
oh...another question.
I've had the blower 6 winters. I noticed the auger belt is about ready to go, so I'm replacing it. I figured I might as well replace the drive belt too while I'm at it...although it still "looks" Ok to me. good idea? and, I guess it can be done from underneath too?


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Not sure about this model but the blowers I have I can change the belts by just taking the belt cover off, manually pulling back the tension wheel on each and removing the belts. If I'm doing both [drive and auger] be sure to do the back one [usually the drive belt] first, then the auger.


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> thanks jerry.
> oh...another question.
> I've had the blower 6 winters. I noticed the auger belt is about ready to go, so I'm replacing it. I figured I might as well replace the drive belt too while I'm at it...although it still "looks" Ok to me. good idea? and, I guess it can be done from underneath too?


if it was my machine i would do them both at the same time,

however, drive belts normally last longer than auger belts


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

ya...so, the manual says to do it by separating the 2 sections..
jerry - without belabouring the point....which way would YOU do it (in 10 minutes, or longer lol)?🤪


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> ya...so, the manual says to do it by separating the 2 sections..
> jerry - without belabouring the point....which way would YOU do it (in 10 minutes, or longer lol)?🤪


it can probably be done either way,

however, if you feel more comfortable following the manual, then you should do it that way

pivoting the machine, or seperating the machine is not a lot of work, or very difficult, its only held together by 4 bolts


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

If the machine has never been apart.
I would split it just for the sake of it.. then remove accessable fasteners one at a time and put some anti seize on them.. check all bearings.. replace both belts.
Wipe down surfaces with Fluid film.. being careful not let any get on belts or pulleys.
Check the condition of cable ends.
A day will come when you need to work on it and everything will be stuck together.. I would spend an hour or two on it now to make future repairs easier and to become familiar with the machine.. that way when you do have to work on it again and it 10 below outside.. it will be so much easier as you are familiar with it and have prevented parts from getting stuck to each other.

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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

jerryvvv said:


> it can probably be done either way,
> 
> however, if you feel more comfortable following the manual, then you should do it that way
> 
> pivoting the machine, or seperating the machine is not a lot of work, or very difficult, its only held together by 4 bolts


that's not really what I asked you....😈😈😈


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> that's not really what I asked you....😈😈😈


my preference is to do it in the service position from underneath,

i find it quicker and easier that way, but thats just me,

but i don't need a step by step instruction booklet, i only need those for cooking a frozen dinner.....Lol 😄


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

ok. thanks. (I'm no good in the kitchen either!)


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> ok. thanks. (I'm no good in the kitchen either!)


My general steps are


remove the belt cover
remove both belts from the engine drive pulley or pulleys
flip machine into service position and remove bottom cover
remove and replace belts


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

gotcha!

dinner ready....???


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

This is pretty much the way I do it.....

Not your exact blower, but the process should be similar......


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

yes thanks jerry. I also googled & got that video. its a good one.
I plan to start ths job tomorrow. unlike you, it might tske me s little longer than 10 minutes😈


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

jerryvvv said:


> This is pretty much the way I do it.....
> 
> Not your exact blower, but the process should be similar......


just watching this video again.
funny, but it seems in this, and other videos, the drive and auger handles are the reverse of my Craftsman machine (Right side vs Left side).....is this a US / Canada thing or....?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> just watching this video again.
> funny, but it seems in this, and other videos, the drive and auger handles are the reverse of my Craftsman machine (Right side vs Left side).....is this a US / Canada thing or....?


no....its just a make and model thing,

some makes/brands the handles are opposite

my last machine was a Noma, now I have an MTD and the handles are opposite of each other


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

aha...


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

update.
not the best photos, but would you be inclined to replace this somewhat rusty spring on the drive pulley when i'm replacing the belts?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

might as well, while you are in there,

or at the least i would give it a good soaking of WD-40

remove the spring to spray it with WD-40 so you don't get the spray on other parts


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Just spray the lube (WD40, or oil, or whatever) in a cap or small bowl, and brush it on with a long handled artists brush (cheap at Walmart or Michaels), that way you don't spray it on all the belts and pulleys. Or as mentioned, if you can easily take it off, then do that and soak it.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

UPDATE.
ok, my machine is rigged a little different from the video in #24 above, and to start, the auger belt doesn't want to come out anywear near as easy as its shown in that video! ( nor can i fish it out like the video in #6).
I found this video by dannyboy doing it the " separation" way, so i think i'll give that a try...
I dont have a helper, so I'll try to set the handles up against the garage wall & hopefully that'll work-
any better suggetion?
First question...what does he mean by "turn the engine over", at about the 1:20-1:25 mark?
a little yank on the pull cord, or what?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

gam said:


> update.
> not the best photos, but would you be inclined to replace this somewhat rusty spring on the drive pulley when i'm replacing the belts?
> View attachment 169640
> 
> ...


Evoporust take it and any other rusty parts off and let them sit in that. Add some rusty tools if you have any. Anything rusty.
Works great. reusable, non toxic, read it,



https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rust-The-Original-Super-Safe-Rust-Remover-Water-Based-Non-Toxic-Biodegradable-1-Gallon/48810395?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227037674623&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80431885129&wl4=aud-430887228898:pla-177671625409&wl5=9003530&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=48810395&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlcqw3OXS7AIVpQiICR0VuwwmEAQYASABEgKEEvD_BwE


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> First question...what does he mean by "turn the engine over", at about the 1:20-1:25 mark?
> a little yank on the pull cord, or what?


yes, he is pulling the pull start cord to turn the engine and that pulley,

i normally just grab that pulley with my hands and turn it to remove the belt


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

a little yank on the pull cord, or what? 

Yes but only if you followed his instruction to remove the spark plug boot from the plug to prevent an accident.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

gotcha! thanks guys.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

I would take the time while I have it split to remove all the bolts you can get to one at a time and put anti seize on the threads.
After you put it back together.. put it in the service position and do the rest of em as well.
I did everything on mine expect split the gear box.
I did pull it though so I could take the impeller off the shaft and put anti seize on it.
Greased the bushings on the side of the bucket.. put fluid film on the surface of the bearing which holds the impeller shaft.. That was first season service.. I did the valve adjustment as well.
This stuff is very easy to work on if parts aren't rusted together.. parts will rust together and cause alot of frustration when you work on it. 
Almost every bolt was removed and anti seized up to save me grief in the future.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

ME AGAIN,!
beginning to wish I'd never started this...
OK, with the help of donny's video i got the thing apart.
managed to get the auger belt off, but stymied on removing the drive belt.
my manual sez to remove the engine pulley, which I'm hesitant to do, and not done in the video.
I didnt follow the instructions in the Manual, went by the video.
also my machine has that black clutch swing plate thingy that the machine in video doesn't, so, not much space to manoeuver.
would appreciate some guidance as to what to do next.
anyone?
(attaching photos & manual instructions page)


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

in all the machines i have worked on, and all the times i have changed belts, not once have i ever had to remove the engine pulley,

looking at the engine pulleys from the front, pull the drive belt over the right side of the pulley as far as you can, and hold it there, now rotate the pulley counter clockwise, the rotation of the pulley will assist in the removal of the belt,

remove the spark plug, to make it easier to turn the pulley


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

jerryvvv said:


> in all the machines i have worked on, and all the times i have changed belts, not once have i ever had to remove the engine pulley,
> 
> looking at the engine pulleys from the front, pull the drive belt over the right side of the pulley as far as you can, and hold it there, now rotate the pulley counter clockwise, the rotation of the pulley will assist in the removal of the belt,
> 
> remove the spark plug, to make it easier to turn the pulley


which pulley, in each instance? the top(smaller) pulley, or the bottom(bigger) pulley? sorry.
btw..the belt is still in the groove of the big lower pulley

plug is out🙃


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

im talking about the engine pulley (smaller)

if you cant do it, remove the engine pulley, its only one bolt


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

gam said:


> which pulley, in each instance? the top(smaller) pulley, or the bottom(bigger) pulley? sorry.
> btw..the belt is still in the groove of the big lower pulley
> 
> plug is out🙃


Can you push the swing plate up against the rubber wheel to gain enough clearance to pull it through?
After you take the belt off the big pulley..the belt will go over the engine pulleys..you may have to push on the swing plate to bring it up through the gap.



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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

watch the video in my post #24 specifically @2:15

does your snowblower have a bolt like that? have you removed it?

removing it will allow you to swing the drive plate forward creating more slack


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

ok. got it out! ......FFS!🤪
thanks guys!


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

jerryvvv said:


> watch the video in my post #24 specifically @2:15
> 
> does your snowblower have a bolt like that? have you removed it?
> 
> removing it will allow you to swing the drive plate forward creating more slack


no, doesnt have that bolt


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

jerryvvv said:


> im talking about the engine pulley (smaller)
> 
> if you cant do it, remove the engine pulley, its only one bolt


I would remove it anyway just so I could put anti-seize on it.
I would finish splitting the machine and anti-seize everything..take about two hours



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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

well your half way there,

now just reverse what you did


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

easy for you to say.
look, We have a couple of parts dealers here...I dont think ill bother online.
the locals price on drive belt is $32.
but, one dealer wants $50 for the auger, the other is $65?
havent seen either one, but would thre be a difference? what should i look for, or just get the cheaper one?
FWIW...When i called for prices the $65 guy seem to find it by my manual part no., but the $50 guy had to sort of cross-ref it ...prob. to a Huswvarna number. any red flags there?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

if your going with an aftermarket belt, i would just buy the cheapest one,

$50 for a belt is very expensive,

i don't even pay that much for OEM manufacturers belts

do you have the part number of the belts?

i would do a search on Amazon


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

how do i tell if a belt is OEM or not?
just checked that c-equipment site you mentioned on my other thread,
apparently they sell my OEM belt for $40, aftermarket for $15.

​
408007, 532408007
184496, 403797, 287901,
584387901, 583287901​
​
5/8 x 38
Heavy Duty OEM Quality​














408007 Belt Murray$39.99


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

the brand name of the $50 belt at local dealer is "Vickers" . Any good?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

personally i would have left the drive belt alone. they really don't see much stress and that auger belt really doesn't look that bad. also if that is the correct size belt you should likely be able to fine one for about $20 or less from a farm supply store or places like princess auto since it is a full size belt.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

^^^^^^
I dunno?
a little close look at the drive belt.
and the auger belt.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

maybe you could use a new auger belt because couldn't see the cracks in it but the drive belt looks pretty normal. your brand new one will look the same after a season as the sides of the belt wear to fit the pulleys.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

oh, maybe so. I thought it looked a bit frayed, but I'm no expert.
oh well, got it off now...


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

ask yourself this question.....

"do you really want to be doing this job again, in the middle of a freezing cold winter?"

you have both belts off.....for the extra 20 bucks, replace them both


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

going to 😋😋

any knowledge of that "Vickers" brand belts?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

jerryvvv said:


> you have both belts off.....for the extra 20 bucks, replace them both


but what if the $20 belt fails in the middle of winter? you can play devils advocate all day will crap like that. that $20 belt may be lower quality than the old belt and could fail just as easily.


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> going to 😋😋
> 
> any knowledge of that "Vickers" brand belts?


aftermarket belts are all pretty much equal quality IMO


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

jerryvvv said:


> aftermarket belts are all pretty much equal quality IMO


i learned with my first snowblower that is not always the case. the $10 belt i tried was not the same as the $30 belt i ended up having to buy because they $10 belt wore out in less than a week.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

BACK AGAIN!
Ok...getting there. got belts off & the drive belt back on!
A QUESTION (see photos): I let go that spring on the auger drive pulley brake thing ( to make things easier) but now I'm not 100% sure where to re-attach the other end.
I put an "x" on where I THINK? it goes, in the second photo. And attached it as per the third photo.
Is this correct spot? I'd like to be 101% sure! Anyone?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

seems like the only place,

unless there is a spot to connect it on the auger half of the machine,

if that is the case you would need to put the two halves together at the bottom, then hook the spring, then pivot them together to install the bolts,

look for a "hook" on the auger half in that area,

also, your going to have to retract the brake when putting the two halves back together,

push the auger lever down, and put some tape around the handle to do this


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

nope. dont see anything on the auger half.
re retracting the brake - right! tks.
also, anything i need to do or check, on the auger half, while i got it separated...?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> nope. dont see anything on the auger half.
> re retracting the brake - right! tks.
> also, anything i need to do or check, on the auger half, while i got it separated...?


if it was my machine, i would remove the auger pulley, and remove the auger shaft bearing to inspect its condition,

however, i think this might be well above your comfort zone, and skill level....no offense meant

just turn the auger pulley by hand a bit, and make sure it turns easily and freely, without any roughness, or grinding

it should be very easy to turn


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

It should not move (wobble) either. 
The shaft should be tight on the bearing, no up or down movement.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

no offence taken!🤓
the pulley seems to turn ok. but I pretty "wobbly" or "loose", although its bolted on tight.
Is that normal? ok? ...

HERE'S A VIDEO, I HOPE:

New video by x x


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

Big Ed said:


> It should not move (wobble) either.
> The shaft should be tight on the bearing, no up or down movement.


UH-OH!


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

did my video come out in post#66? any sound?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

there is defintely something wrong there,

that pulley should be tight and not wobble like that,

is the bolt done up tight?


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

does my video have sound? just curious


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

gam said:


> did my video come out in post#66? any sound?


Yes I CAN hear you. 

That looks like it is in the pulley, but the shaft seems tight. Is there a bearing in the pulley?
When you take the pulley off see if the shaft moves up and down.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

When you turn the pulley, what is that clunking sound in the video?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

gam said:


> does my video have sound? just curious


yes


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

WOW! sorry, the bolt WAS LOOSE!! I just assumed it was tight!
jeez, how did THAT happen? I've never touched it!
Anyhow, I tightened it up. All seems ok , to me, now....see attached video now!

Should this bolt be torqued to a certain spce? Or, just as TIGHT as I can tighten it?

VIDEO:
New video by x x


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

.


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

there probably is a torque spec, but not sure where you would find it,

i would take the bolt out, and put some locktite on it and re-install to prevent it from coming loose again


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

tks.
does it look / sound ok to you now?
sheesh....how does something like that happen....?


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## jerryvvv (Apr 23, 2020)

it seems okay,

grab the pulley at both sides, using both hands, and try to push the pulley up and down, left and right,

there should be NO free play


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Yeah, it helps a lot if that is tight. 
I did not watch the new one yet.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Stop spinning it, take your hands, one on top of the pulley, the other on the bottom.
Now see if you can make that rock.
You know what I mean?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Is there a bearing in the pulley?
My Craftsman is different mine has a key for the pulley.
Maybe you have both? Key with the nut you tightened?
Might need a new key if someone was running it like that?


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

Big Ed said:


> Stop spinning it, take your hands, one on top of the pulley, the other on the bottom.
> Now see if you can make that rock.
> You know what I mean?


no. no rocking now. seems solid, to me.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

gam said:


> no. no rocking now. seems solid, to me.


I thought you were going to do another video of it?
Damn, I made pop corn too. 

I still hear a little clunking sound.
I guess that is normal.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

those videos are hard on the brain🍿🍿🍿🍿🍿


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

You still didn't answer this,
Is THERE A BEARING in the pulley?






My Craftsman is different mine has a key for the pulley.
Maybe you have both? Key with the nut you tightened?
Might need a new key if someone was running it like that?


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

sorry...here's the schematic for the auger housing. several bearings listed, dont know what you mean by a "key"...


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Number 3 is the bearing. You have no key on yours.
Here is a picture of a key. In goes into a slot on the pulley. The shaft for the pulley has a slot too. One bolt holds the key tight.
This is a key.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

ok.....so...I dont have one....does that change things? not sure I follow....
On my machine, I just tighten the nut (#15) down -right?
(ps. what's that white thing in your photos?)


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

gam said:


> ok.....so...I dont have one....does that change things? not sure I follow....
> On my machine, I just tighten the nut (#15) down -right?
> (ps. what's that white thing in your photos?)


White thing? 
The little bar like thing that is the key. 
The round thing is a spacer for mine.

If you had a key from someone running it loose could have damaged the key.

But you don't have a key.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

oh....so the key goes into that little slot, in the spacer? or what?

and, so none of this applies to my machine anyway? right?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Just the bearings do. If any of those are shot or going bad the gear box driveshaft will wobble.

No the key inserts on the shaft you line up the pulley to the key and insert onto the shaft.
The spacer is just that, a spacer.


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