# MTD 310-586 Eating Up Multiple Friction Disks



## Mauser.45 (Feb 16, 2015)

My MTD snowblower 310-586 is going through about 1 friction disk every other snow fall. 26 inch cut 8hp Tecumseh. Half way thru blowing snow last night the disk started chunking again. Basically the machine operates flawlessly and then the auger will slow down and not blow as far, then the friction wheel starts to make a clunking noise. After the noise starts i have inspected and the friction wheel has chunks missing out of it. The last time this problem arose i replaced both the belts, friction disk, cleaned friction wheel, new pulley for auger belt tensioner, new spring and pulley for drive belt tensioner. Seems the auger will make a noise and not throw as far with the thicker snow. I believe i have 2 problems here and do not want to keep putting money into it and not get the problem taken care of.

This is an old model yet has been in taken care of all these years, looks like new and has been running like new, always maintained. Last winter and now this winter this problem has came into play. If anyone has any ideas let me know and it would be very appreciated.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Defective rubber, contaminated rubber, bad bearings throwing the contact angle off, torn up metal plate, too much tension, too little tension, forcing the machine to plow instead of blow?


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## Mauser.45 (Feb 16, 2015)

Thanks Shryp. I should have been a more clear. I am really looking to see if anyone has run into this problem with first hand experience on solving the issue. I would prefer not to speculate although i have though of the possibility of too much tension on the drive wheel. From the handle control there is a rod with a spring on it, i am gonna lessen the tension when i go to replace the friction wheel. The friction plate is smooth as can be. The work is always done by letting the machine do the work. If possible only reply if anyone has had this similar problem with a known fix. Thanks


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## Bror Jace (Jan 13, 2015)

_"... I have though of the possibility of too much tension on the drive wheel."_

Agree ... unless you have gotten a hold of a BATCH of defective drive wheels. How likely is that? Assuming you are using OEM parts, I'd contact the manufacturer once you rule everything else out.

I could see how too much tension could "buckle" the rubber strip on the wheel ... causing it to debond and come apart quickly. This doesn't sound like mere excessive wear. These things should last hundreds of hours ... not several.

But, give the plate a visual inspection (although I assume you have already done so). Surface should be clean and have a "brushed" appearance. Defects (severe rust, pits, etc ...) significant enough ruin a rubber wheel in short order should be obvious.


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## Mauser.45 (Feb 16, 2015)

I have contacted the manufacturer on the friction disks, this being the 3rd one and of course they have no notes on any quality concerns. I will say that i am running Prime-Line branded friction disks since MTD no longer has a current p/n for them. The friction plate is in great shape, surface is flat, almost has a smooth polished appearance.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Are you shifting while driving or maybe there is a lot of play in the shifter and it is bouncing around on its own?


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## Mauser.45 (Feb 16, 2015)

Always shift when stopped. The mechanism for shifting is all tight, not loose and bouncing around. All linkage is good for engagement. A previous attempt at fixing the problem i replaced the axle bearing retainer plastic bushings on both the axle shaft and the jack shaft. One is a plastic hex bushing on the top jack shaft the other three were metal flanged bushings replaced with plastic ones from MTD. Replacing all those parts made the machine work more fluidly. So i believe there is nothing binding all is straight and true on those now.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

It's a 310-586-??? or are they all the same. 

If they are all the same then is it a 05080AP wheel ?
You might want to buy the next one at Oreilly auto parts as it will have a 1 yr warranty. List: Search for '7-07457' | O'Reilly Auto Parts
That's not going to fix the problem but at lease it might make finding the problem a little bit cheaper.

Can you post up a picture of the bad friction disc ?

You have to remember we are trying to help you by remote control. Shryp is literally pretty sharp on these machines and since he repairs and rebuilds a fair number of them each year I wouldn't really slap him when he's only outlining the things that any of us would recommend you check. Speculation is what we do.


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## cdestuck (Jan 20, 2013)

Did you ever try tilting the machine up while running and with the bottom plate off to watch the disc running against the plate. Be interesting to see if the disc looks like it's running smoothly.


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## BeerGhost (Dec 17, 2013)

> the auger will slow down and not blow as far, then the friction wheel starts to make a clunking noise


 Ok this might be axle bearings getting tight maby countershaft bearings? Overloading the drivetrain causing friction wheel to chatter. chunking it up.


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## Rockadode (Feb 15, 2015)

Check the Chains in the drive system, I had the same issue in the Ariens 10/32 that I just rebuilt, there were a number of links that were absolutely welded with rust and they were wrapped around the small sprocket when they seized.

Every time that hump of links passed the small sprocket it would bend all the shafts around I had to refit all the shaft supports and change the bushings after that I got new chains for less than $20 and slammed them in - clunking gone.


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## Mauser.45 (Feb 16, 2015)

Rockadode said:


> Check the Chains in the drive system, I had the same issue in the Ariens 10/32 that I just rebuilt.


The chain is really loose, it moves freely but very very loose, almost loose enough to pop off the sprocket but not. I will replace the chain also.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

It would be helpful if you posted the full model number of your machine.
Using the number you gave it seems that chain might be NLA.

I came up with #41 chain and that can be bought on line (ebay), tractor supply, fleet farm and Northertool to name a few. Cut off what you need and use a #41 master link to install it. 

Go-Kart Drive Chain #41 &#151; 1/2in.Chain Pitch, 1/4in. Between Inner Plates | Chains, Sprockets Hubs| Northern Tool + Equipment


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## Rockadode (Feb 15, 2015)

Mauser.45 said:


> The chain is really loose, it moves freely but very very loose, almost loose enough to pop off the sprocket but not. I will replace the chain also.


 make sure to check/replace all the shaft bushings and bearings as necessary while you're in there and grease the snot out of the new chain on the way in  I used copper paste on the bushings and plastered grease around the bearings as well to keep dirt and moisture out


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