# Can I secure UHMW with rivets instead of screws?



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I'm thinking of removing the auger and impeller for ease of installing the rubber n the impeller blades. If I decide to do that, I'm going to line the impeller area with UHMW. Rather than using stainless machine screws, what about using aluminium rivets?


----------



## KennyT (Nov 21, 2017)

It would depend on the grade of aluminum. Box store aluminum rivets are soft, low grade aluminum and will rapidly creep and degrade in a high stress setting.
Probably best just to stick with the SS fasteners, the labor/cost differential is inconsequential.


----------



## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

I'd probably go with SS flat heads and acorn nuts. It should even look decent.

I might even consider an adhesive solution.


----------



## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

I agree with the above comments. I have seen alum rivets creep, fatigue and fall out with out in due time.


----------



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I personally like the idea. I think you should try it. Countersunk (flush) on the snow side would be even cooler. Getting them in the exact location however seems like a real challenge.


----------



## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

dbert said:


> I personally like the idea. I think you should try it. Countersunk (flush) on the snow side would be even cooler. Getting them in the exact location however seems like a real challenge.


Clamp it in place then match drill.


----------



## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

If road salt is in use you do want to consider if you're creating a brine trap that will rot the steel behind the liner.


----------



## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

The disadvantage of rivets is that you can not easily remove it. If using rivets, I'd use stainless steel rivets, or steel rivets but not aluminum.
The impeller housing and chute liners on my Yamaha YS1028J are held in place by screws, nuts and bolts; this way they can be easily removed to replace them or to repaint the area behind the liners if it develops corrosion.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Spectrum said:


> If road salt is in use you do want to consider if you're creating a brine trap that will rot the steel behind the liner.


Just residential sidewalks and driveways. However your response gives me a thought, run a bead of silicone along the edge of the uhmw.


----------



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I've spent the last 30 years around machines held together with aluminum rivets so I'm probably biased. 
Here is an old thread I started re my plastic impeller seals. I used screws and locknuts but as you can see in the photos I slotted the material so it could be easier to re-adjust if they wore away down the road. 
Note: I did this mod before I ever used this machine to blow snow and cant tell you how much difference it made, but can now that I've used it, it does seem to work well.
Link


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Personally I like the idea of SS whether rivets or bolts. I did have a thought. I'm not that familiar with the characteristics of UHMW but if it's like other plastics then heat may help form it to shape. If you warmed it up enough on a sheet pan of some type in the oven, immediately pull it and form it onto the piece you're going to apply it to - might take the shape and give a snugger fit that way. You'd want it hot enough to soften but not so high as to melt it.


Just a brain fart, don't know if it would work or not but might be worth considering and maybe a little experimenting.


If that doesn't seem feasible, another random thought. There are epoxy coating kits for things like garage floors. Some of that stuff is very slick till you add the granules to it. Might be able to use that as a lining, kind of like they do with pickup boxes except a different type material. 


Good luck


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

HCBPH said:


> Personally I like the idea of SS whether rivets or bolts. I did have a thought. I'm not that familiar with the characteristics of UHMW but if it's like other plastics then heat may help form it to shape. If you warmed it up enough on a sheet pan of some type in the oven, immediately pull it and form it onto the piece you're going to apply it to - might take the shape and give a snugger fit that way. You'd want it hot enough to soften but not so high as to melt it.


A great idea about heating it. Others had posted on here they used a heat gun to form it inside the chute.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I checked out Amazon and boltdepot.com for the prices for stainless steel machine screws and nuts. Boltdepot was slightly cheaper plus 100% satisfaction guarantee. I decided to use Truss head #8x3/4" stainless steel machine screws $5/100 and nylon ss torque nuts $5/100. I have to measure for 3/4" if that's the right length, thinking #8 would be the right size, giving me a small hole and good strength. Hopefully the Truss head will be large enough, considering using fender washers stainless $7/100 under the screw heads to spread the pressure, not sure if it's necessary but seems like a good idea. Thinking 3 machine screws across, spaced 6"-8" around. Shipping would be $7, for a total of $24.

Almost ready to pull the trigger and order that and the UHMW for the impeller housing and chute. It's 40 in NJ, going to wait for a warm day as I'm going to remove the auger and impeller from the housing.

Any suggestions?


----------

