# Crankshaft Replacement Issue



## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

MTD/Sears 247.888500
Tecumseh HMSK85-155901A

Broken connecting rod. Connecting rod marked the surface on the crankshaft when rod goes. Crankshaft 35980A No longer Available. Short Block 756325 No longer available. Can I clean up the markings on the crankshaft with emory cloth and put new connecting rod and go with it? Any ideas or suggestions.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

I cleaned up marks on a crank in a small block chevy before. ran great and lasted a long time. didn't have any money to do anything else. 

clean up any high spots and then use fine emery like you were polishing a shoe and make sure to continually rotate the crank so it gets polished all the way around. that will keep the diameter the same and the bearing surface a true circle.

If you want to check clearance -- so it is not to big or small, plasti-gauge is very cheap and all you do is assemble it with the plasti-gauge torque it and then remove, measure how wide the plasti-gauge spread to. check that with the tec manual as to acceptable tolerances.


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

davbell22602 said:


> MTD/Sears 247.888500
> Tecumseh HMSK85-155901A
> 
> Broken connecting rod. Connecting rod marked the surface on the crankshaft when rod goes. Crankshaft 35980A No longer Available. Short Block 756325 No longer available. Can I clean up the markings on the crankshaft with emory cloth and put new connecting rod and go with it? Any ideas or suggestions.


I would use muratic acid and dissolve the alum deposits on the crank. may take a little while, but you will not be removing any material from the crank other than the material left from the rod rotating without lubrication. This is just my humble opinion and it has worked for me. Did you look at your cylinder walls to see if they are scored from lack of oil?


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

woodtick007 said:


> I would use muratic acid and dissolve the alum deposits on the crank. may take a little while, but you will not be removing any material from the crank other than the material left from the rod rotating without lubrication. This is just my humble opinion and it has worked for me. Did you look at your cylinder walls to see if they are scored from lack of oil?


Cylinder walls and piston are fine. In think PO ran the snowblower too long with no cool down breaks for the snowblower. It broke on the PO 3 years ago. He ran it in the late afternoon til 1am non stop.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

that acid trick is a good idea. didnt think that the rod left material behind. I was thinking the rod broke and banged into the crank causing damage.

When I was younger I tried to clean a set of rods and pistons from a chevy with a bath of that stuff. whoops....no more pistons... live and learn.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Never used that acid stuff or how to use it or where to buy it.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

It is widely used by masons. available in any decent hardware store or home depot or lowes.

be careful, very potent stuff, 1 good whiff and it will burn airways. burns skin etc. and that is the retail stuff that I believe is only 1 percent acid and the rest water in the gallon jug.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Is that the same stuff used in ultrasonic cleaners?


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

I dont think so but ultrasonic can use different solvents sometimes just plain water. I am not sure what would safe to use. I think it depends on what you are cleaning.


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

td5771 said:


> that acid trick is a good idea. didnt think that the rod left material behind. I was thinking the rod broke and banged into the crank causing damage.


Oh, I am sorry I did not realize he has a ding in his crank. I thought he had a buildup of rod material from being run without oil.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

I got fine scoring marks on the crank where the rod bolts on at. There not that deep and likes a scored piston on chainsaw/weedeater.


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

davbell22602 said:


> Cylinder walls and piston are fine. In think PO ran the snowblower too long with no cool down breaks for the snowblower. It broke on the PO 3 years ago. He ran it in the late afternoon til 1am non stop.


I am sorry to say, but you could run that motor til the cows come home as long as you have a proper supply of clean oil in the crankcase. The man either ran it without oil or overloaded the snowthrower and the first thing to break in a Tecumseh is the rod.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

if a connecting rod isn't too expensive and you have it apart already, If it were me I would polish it up and go with it. If you dont its scrap anyway. just time and what ever the rod costs.

On another note... most sites list the crank part number you gave as unavailable. however partstree.com is still listing as they have it for $147.

I would go ahead with polishing the old. 147 is too rich for my blood just for a crank.

They should be pretty up to date, they list the shortblock as unavailable


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

td5771 said:


> if a connecting rod isn't too expensive and you have it apart already, If it were me I would polish it up and go with it. If you dont its scrap anyway. just time and what ever the rod costs.
> 
> On another note... most sites list the crank part number you gave as unavailable. however partstree.com is still listing as they have it for $147.
> 
> ...


I would not invest 150 in that motor. I would do the best with the crank you can and throw in a new rod. They are about $29. Does your engine have one output shaft or two? What is the dia 3/4 or 1"?


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

woodtick007 said:


> I would not invest 150 in that motor. I would do the best with the crank you can and throw in a new rod. They are about $29. Does your engine have one output shaft or two? What is the dia 3/4 or 1"?


What do mean by output shaft? The 2 piece belt pulleys bolts onto the crankshaft.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If it threw a rod made sure the crankcase isn't cracked anywhere before you spend any time or money working on the rod and crank. The cases tend to crack under the gas tank and starter when the rod lets go.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Shryp said:


> If it threw a rod made sure the crankcase isn't cracked anywhere before you spend any time or money working on the rod and crank. The cases tend to crack under the gas tank and starter when the rod lets go.


I didnt see any cracks on the outside but will check on the inside of crankcase too.


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

Why don't you just put that Tecumseh in the garbage. You can go to Harbor Freight and buy a 7hp 210cc engine(its a very very strong 7hp)with a 2-3 year warranty for about a $115. If you have a 3/4" shaft your good to go. Of not, you will have to buy a 1' to 3/4" bushing so you can reuse your pulley. That motor will run circles around that old motor. If you don't wanna buy from Harbor Freight. Home Depot sells Lifan Engines and they are Honda clone. 

HORIZONTAL ENGINE, GASOLINE , EPA 212CC OHV 7HP they are on sale with a coupon for $99

6.5 HP OHV Recoil Start 3/4 in. Horizontal Keyway Shaft Engine-LF168F-2BQ at The Home Depot looks like HD has raised thier price they were $129 and I am sure you can buy them for less than this price


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

woodtick007 said:


> Why don't you just put that Tecumseh in the garbage. You can go to Harbor Freight and buy a 7hp 210cc engine(its a very very strong 7hp)with a 2-3 year warranty for about a $115. If you have a 3/4" shaft your good to go. Of not, you will have to buy a 1' to 3/4" bushing so you can reuse your pulley. That motor will run circles around that old motor. If you don't wanna buy from Harbor Freight. Home Depot sells Lifan Engines and they are Honda clone.
> 
> HORIZONTAL ENGINE, GASOLINE , EPA 212CC OHV 7HP they are on sale with a coupon for $99
> 
> 6.5 HP OHV Recoil Start 3/4 in. Horizontal Keyway Shaft Engine-LF168F-2BQ at The Home Depot looks like HD has raised thier price they were $129 and I am sure you can buy them for less than this price


The current engine has the electric start kit for it. The pulleys are 2 piece type pulleys.


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

davbell22602 said:


> The current engine has the electric start kit for it. The pulleys are 2 piece type pulleys.


I don't understand what you mean "2 piece type pulleys" are you saying they are an aluminum pulley with a brass pressed insert? why dont you post some photos of the crank and the 2 piece pulleys

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...R=203277122&catEntryId=203277122#.UQ_vAB2YuMU

$209 electric start


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Here's pic of the crankshaft.


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

Just found these after doing some searching...

Connect. Rod.(36897A) 34.63 on SEPW(#45 on engine part lst:

Click here: Tecumseh Parts

crankshaft(part#35980A) $115 #30 on engine parts list at SEPW.

Just found these so thought might help not trying to out due my man td5771.

Check ebay too with parts numbers given.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Simplicity Solid 22 said:


> Just found these after doing some searching...
> 
> Connect. Rod.(36897A) 34.63 on SEPW(#45 on engine part lst:
> 
> ...


Thanks, Nobody on ebay has crankshaft listed right now.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Rod journal pics


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

Your photos are blurry. But it just looks to be rod deposits from lack of lubrication. Clean the journal with some acid and a stainless steel brush. My guess is that the crank will be fine as its steel and the rod was aluminum . Then put your new rod in and run it. It could last a season or two or it could last a very longtime. Heck you could buy a new crank and rod and the first time you load your machine with heavy wet snow or clear the driveway of the snowplow roll your new rod could break like a pretzel.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Where you get this acid and stainless brush at?


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

What about converting from double PTO to single PTO setup and using a newer snow engine? Has anyone ever done this before? How hard would it be?


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## Bain (Nov 22, 2012)

Repower that MTD .... its easy peasy

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/mtd-snowblowers/1171-[build]-repower-mdt-6-5hp-clone.html

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...chine-5-22-harbor-freight-predator-212cc.html


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Bain said:


> Repower that MTD .... its easy peasy
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/mtd-snowblowers/1171-[build]-repower-mdt-6-5hp-clone.html
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...chine-5-22-harbor-freight-predator-212cc.html


Thanks But if I'm gonna change engines I wanna to a Briggs or Kohler. Maybe the new MTD Tecumseh snow engines. Not interested in using the chinese cause it takes forever to gets for them.


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## Bain (Nov 22, 2012)

All the parts you need are at your nearest honda sports dealer ... worlds alot smaller now eh


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

I had a Champion generator and the champion dealer for it said it takes 2 weeks to get parts. So sold it last year in the spring.


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## Waterlooboy2hp (Nov 29, 2011)

This would sure solve your problems, if you could get it for one bid. Even an HMSK85, with a single shaft would work. You could just swap out your side cover and camshaft. 

I just finished converting an 8hp Briggs like that. In my case, I was lucky to find a NOS side cover and extended cam. It is going on a tiller, in the spring. I have used the acid idea a few times. Got it at a local hardware store. --- John

HMSK85 8 5 HP Tecumseh Snowblower Engine Dual Shaft PTO MTD Yard Machine NR | eBay


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Waterlooboy2hp said:


> This would sure solve your problems, if you could get it for one bid. Even an HMSK85, with a single shaft would work. You could just swap out your side cover and camshaft.
> 
> I just finished converting an 8hp Briggs like that. In my case, I was lucky to find a NOS side cover and extended cam. It is going on a tiller, in the spring. I have used the acid idea a few times. Got it at a local hardware store. --- John
> 
> HMSK85 8 5 HP Tecumseh Snowblower Engine Dual Shaft PTO MTD Yard Machine NR | eBay



Thats looks like the same engine I need a crankshaft for.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

Where are you located?


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

td5771 said:


> Where are you located?


Winchester, Va


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

$99.00 + US $34.24
United States
Economy Shipping (USPS Parcel Select®) 

Estimated between *Tue. Feb. 12 and Thu. Feb. 21*


133.24 = New used engine.....


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

This looked interesting...MTD swap.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

I am not putting a champion engine on this blower. I wanna stick to a Briggs, Kohler, Honda or Tecumseh


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

Look at this nice repower someone posted on youtube. 

BTW Tecumseh is out of out of business. Honda engines are made my LiFan in China, And I think small briggs are also made in china now. http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=97009 and last but not least Kohler engines made in China by Kohler-Yinxiang


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Tecumseh is making engines under different name. 

Crankshaft Replacement Issue - Page 2


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

When I mentioned the Price and shipping prior it was in regards to the HMSK85 on ebay you saw...not a Harbor Freight Special. Just was showing you that for an MTD swap reference...

New Tecumseh/Lauson/LCT = Chinese!!!

Well if you want a non chinese it will be a new old Tecumseh.
Anything you buy if you want it non Chinese made will be a New to you used engine.

Do you have a preference of the ones you listed???? Are you looking to change HP or stay with original HP??

Not to ask so many questions just find it cool you might repower so I am excited for you!!! MORE POWER!!!!
Arggggghhhh!!!


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Any Briggs, Kohler, or Tecumseh engine would work for me. Just dont want a Champion engine cause parts takes 2 weeks to get around here.


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

Before you spend time and money on a new old tecumseh.... you should take into mind that tecumseh's are notorious for breaking rods on snowblowers. A new old tecumseh could blow it rod on the first use. Your much better off either buying a new new engine or cleaning that crank and polishing out the fine scratches and putting a new new rod in for about $15-$30 Run the thing. Keep the oil clean/full and dont run the thing at max rpms all the time. Worst case you wasted $30 and couple hours or life that you can't get back.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

What if buy new rod and put it in without getting all the marks completely out then using hd 30 oil instead of 5w-30?


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

Please remove the crank from the block and post some clear well lit photos of the marks your asking about. Did you remove all the old rod material from the rod journal?

THe photos show a crank that is from the same engine as yours. On the crank journal there are deposits from the rod as it began to wear before it broke. THis engine has less than 10 hours on and was on a 26" simplicity blower . All the deposits shown in the photo will remove and the crank journal below will be like new. Is this what your seeing on your crank?


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

woodtick007 said:


> Please remove the crank from the block and post some clear well lit photos of the marks your asking about. Did you remove all the old rod material from the rod journal?
> 
> THe photos show a crank that is from the same engine as yours. On the crank journal there are deposits from the rod as it began to wear before it broke. THis engine has less than 10 hours on and was on a 26" simplicity blower . All the deposits shown in the photo will remove and the crank journal below will be like new. Is this what your seeing on your crank?


Thats what I'm seeing also. Looks more like surface scratches but nothing deep in the rod journal itself. I'll have to take it part and get better pics.


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

that is just rod material and will cleanup with the muratic acid and a wire brush. If you have neighbors with a pool thay might have some acid you can use you will not need much. does your local dealer stock the rod? If not I can give you the name a company near me that should have one instock.


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

My distributor has the rod in stock now. I'll need some other parts too. PO said it was vibrating bad and parts started falling off. The red choke knob and red throttle lever knobs broke off also. Does the rod material shorten the life span of the crankshaft any when its on a journal?


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

no the crank is fine. you just need to remove the deposits the rod has left on the crank before installing the new rod and you will be fine.


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

I wish Dony mentioned why he thought the rod broke in these videos...

Part1: 



 
Part2: CONNECTING ROD Repair On 9HP Tecumseh Snowking PART 2 of 2 - YouTube


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

If you File or sand the built up deposits on your crank don't over do it because you might run into this problem..

Click here:


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## Simplicity Solid 22 (Nov 27, 2012)

davbell22602 said:


> Any Briggs, Kohler, or Tecumseh engine would work for me. Just dont want a Champion engine cause parts takes 2 weeks to get around here.


 
I hear ya!!!


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## davbell22602 (Jan 10, 2013)

Does it matter what type of metal brush to use for cleaning the rod journal? welder wire brush, 3/4 stanley wire brushes that in the paint dept at walmart, etc.


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