# John Deere 826 repair



## Postman (Jun 28, 2015)

I just bought a used JD 826 and need some advice. It was not used for over 6 years and would like to get it in good working order. It does start but want to know what I should do besides change spark plug, oil and fuel. Any advice out there?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Make sure the augers are free to spin on the shaft (pull the shear pins). If ok,grease them well if it has zerks. Check the auger gear box for oil level. Pull the tractor belly pan and check the friction disc for wear, lube the shaft it slides on. Check the chain for slack and lube. While you have it up and open, grab a wheel and try to wobble it up and down to see what condition the axle bushings are in. If it runs well without choke after warming up, you really don't need to mess with carb. I'd look at the general condition of the fuel line even if running well. Much easier to replace it now in this weather. I'd just replace the belts also. They're both the same 1/2"x36", I used Napa industrial Kevlar ones $6 ea. locally.
A picture would be nice as a bunch of guys on here are really weird about looking at snowblowers.........OK, me included:white^_^arial^_^0^_
For parts look up:http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the forum Postman. In addition to jt's excellent advice, here is a link to the John Deere snow blower shop manual to help with any necessary repairs. It is rather large in size (33 meg) and will take awhile to download, but is worth having.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9k1uzy1s5s61ma2/526-726-732-826-832-1032-TM1234-01740.pdf


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Welcome to SBF Postman :welcome:


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I forgot to mention to check the brake lever for the auger. It's a common wear part on these model blowers and NLA from deere. Pull the belt cover and and you'll see the auger belt closest to the auger bucket. Engage the auger from the dash, or have a helper do it, so you can clearly see it in the belt area. The idler presses in against the belt to tighten it. At the same time there is a plate on the front of the idler assembly that rides under the brake arm. As the idler pivots in with the dash mounted lever, that plate/disc forces the brake arm and the little pad up and away from the auger pulley. That disc can and will wear a slot through the brake arm. If it gets big enough, it causes the disc to stick in the brake arm and not release when you move the engagement lever to disengage on the dash. Yours may be fine, but worth a check. I had the slot wearing through and welded a scrap piece of stock ontop of the arm and cleaned up the under side. Here's a series of videos Shryp suggested to me a few years ago when I bought my first blower which was a JD 826. They are long, don't help with the stock engine, but show very well how easy these are to work on. It's a 1032, but very little difference from the 826.


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## Postman (Jun 28, 2015)

*John Deere 826*

Here are some pictures of the snow blower I purchased for $40. The only concern so far is when I engage the blades the engine dies. Is this a safety switch problem? Can someone tell me the year from the model number?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

They usually have a small safety switch on the right handle. When you engage the blades you need to have either that safety switch or the drive handle down. If you release both with the blades engaged the engine should die. The 1970s Ariens were set up the same way. This was before the safety regulations said you needed to have a clutch for each.

One of your switches could be bad, or you might not know to hold it down. It could also be bad bearings somewhere locking up when you try to engage the blades or a dirty carb that is stalling the engine.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Early '80's by the short chute design. Shryp is correct they have the deadman switch on the handlebar. They also had an interlock module (about $80) that all the wiring went to under the carb heater box. Looks like half a spray paint can top with wires glued to the bottom. 86 that contraption if it's still there. I grounded my top "flipper" handles switches to the handelbars to avoid all the fake safety devices. I'd roll the auger belt off the big pulley and turn the big auger pulley (nearest the auger bucket) by hand and observe the augers rotating. They will not rotate 1 to 1, but should rotate forward as if the they were in time delay. If that works and you have your hand on either the left or right flipper(top handle bar) when you push the auger engage lever, she should go. If not, that "black can" under the carb heater box is bad, or one of the wires is not hooked correctly. Keep in mind grounding the engine spark makes it shut off, the default for all safety devices is to go to ground. I can find pictures of the wiring under the carb heater box if you don't get results from using the flippers on the handlebars.
Also, forgot....
If you can't rotate the auger pulley with the belt removed (clockwise as you would address the machine to blow) then you have problems in the auger gear box/case.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Postman :welcome:


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## wpadgett5 (2 mo ago)

i have a 826 8 hr. new carb but it now revs out of control from idle. i was told it is the governor inside the motor. does anyone have this problem?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

this post is over 7 years old ... No responses ....... You can try resetting the govenor ... The web will explain the process.


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