# 1986 824 Model:38080



## monstermike

Hello,

I'm new to the forum and looked through all the past threads but didn't see an answer. I have an old 1986 Toro 824 Model: 38080 and it's going strong!!! The other day there was some wet heavy snow and the auger/impeller stop turning! I checked the shear pins/bolts on the auger and all are intact. I checked the impeller key and it's there. I checked the auger/impeller belt and seems a bit loose (I adjusted a little but didn't do anything). When the machine is off I can grab the belt and turn the impeller/auger. Do I just need to replace the auger/impeller belt (I have toro part number 26-9670 for a new belt). When I start the engine and engage the auger/impeller nothing is turning. Is it the belt that spins and gives power to the auger/impeller? Thank you in advance!

Mike


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## threeputtpar

Yes, the belt will rotate along the output shaft of the engine and the impeller pulley below the output shaft. Have you taken off the belt cover and watched the belt and pulleys when running and engaged? Along with a worn out belt, other possibilities are the bolt in the end of the output shaft has come loose and the pulley sheaves are not contacting the belt, the cable for the belt tensioner has broken (the handle will be very loose when being engaged), or your impeller bearing is toast and the pulley and shaft are moving up and down when the belt is engaged (happened to my recent Toro rescue machine).


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## UNDERTAKER

start out replacing the belt. and let us know what happens.


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## classiccat

+1 on the belt replacement.

by chance did the belt/pulley get wet? (i.e. missing belt cover)

Also, do you have any pics of your machine...we like pictures


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## Grunt

Hello and welcome to the forum monstermike. The Toro belt number 26-9670 is the correct auger belt you need. If an emergency or you want to save some money, pick up a 4L400 (1/2" x 40") from a local hardware store and it will work fine if everything else is functioning as it should.

Go to https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm and type in your model number 38080 and your serial number found on the rear left of the snow blower to get an owners manual for proper and safe installation of the new belt. I hope this helps, good luck.


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## UNDERTAKER

Once again this proves that BROTHER GRUNT is the man who always has the master plan in hand.


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## monstermike

Thanks guys. I found the Toro 26-9670 belt replacement part at a local dealer I'll pick it up tonight or tomorrow and take some pics of what things are looking as it is now before I swap out the belt. Hopefully it's just the belt! Many thanks for you assistance.

Mike


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## UNDERTAKER

monstermike said:


> Thanks guys. I found the Toro 26-9670 belt replacement part at a local dealer I'll pick it up tonight or tomorrow and take some pics of what things are looking as it is now before I swap out the belt. Hopefully it's just the belt! Many thanks for you assistance.
> 
> Mike


 That is what we are here for.


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## monstermike

Hi Guys,

Played hockey last night so didn't get a chance to pickup the new belt but I took some pics for you to have a look at the situation. Not sure if they will help. Everything is rotating smoothly when I turn the belt by hand and the bottom pulley isn't loose. Any other thoughts? Plan to grab a new belt after work tonight. Thanks

Mike


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## threeputtpar

The belts don't look terrible, but they certainly don't look new. I don't know where you're located, but I normally get my belts from Fleet Farm because they are 1/2 the price of the Toro labeled ones and are essentially the same. I just replaced my auger belt on a Toro Powershift 824 because it was starting to bog down in heavy snow. It was fine last year, but now it was slipping.

Throw a new auger belt on there and see what happens. I think it will take care of your problem.


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## Grunt

It looks like there is some slack in the auger belt on the un-tensioned side when viewing the sixth picture. Have you tried adjusting the engagement rod with the clevis to increase pressure on the belt? There are a lot of belt fibers in the area which tells me the belt is worn, stretched or slipping. I would replace the belt and adjust the engagement rod if necessary. Were these photos taken with the auger lever ENGAGED??


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## monstermike

Grunt said:


> It looks like there is some slack in the auger belt on the un-tensioned side when viewing the sixth picture. Have you tried adjusting the engagement rod with the clevis to increase pressure on the belt? There are a lot of belt fibers in the area which tells me the belt is worn, stretched or slipping. I would replace the belt and adjust the engagement rod if necessary. Were these photos taken with the auger lever ENGAGED??


Some were taken with it engaged and not engaged. Thanks

Mike


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## UNDERTAKER

STICK A FORK in those belts they are well done. like BROTHER GRUNT said check the adjustment . if you do not know how to do that. JUST ASK 1 of us here. some ones always here somewhere.


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## Pathfinder13

What happens when you squeeze the auger engagement handle? does the tensioner move and snug the belt tight or nothing ? or the belt snugs slightly and not much difference. Former would be cable, latter would be stretched belt. Be sure and get thick PTO belts and not thinner automotive type (like and alternator belt) as they are more apt to stretch. I got my kevlar belts at Tractor Supply but a bloweer dealer would have nice quality belts. Hope this helps


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## monstermike

So I called the local Toro dealer and said he had 3 in stock. Went last night and they couldn't find one??? Called another toro dealer today and they have 4 so I'll try and swing by there tonight.

Pathfinder when I push the auger engagement handle forward (there's no cable it's just a solid rod) the tensioner moves and snugs the belt but nothing turns. I adjusted the rod slightly but didn't make much of a difference.


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## Grunt

When raising the auger handle, it should snap into position with some pressure applied to it. If it raises easily, it needs more adjustment to push harder against the belt. Since you are getting a new belt, wait until it is installed before making any more adjustments on the old belt.


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## 762mm

monstermike said:


> Pathfinder when I push the auger engagement handle forward (there's no cable it's just a solid rod) the tensioner moves and snugs the belt but nothing turns. I adjusted the rod slightly but didn't make much of a difference.


Could it be that the auger bearing is toast and the belts are just slipping on the pulleys when the engagement handle is on? It would explain why the auger isn't spinning with proper belt tension... my 826 currently needs the belts re-tightened (on my to-do list), but the auger still spins and eats snow, just doesn't throw it very far.




As a small anecdote, we once stored a window-mounted A/C unit for the winter (wrapped in plastic without fully drying the water that was inside of it). The next summer both of the electric engine's bearings were toast and wouldn't turn. So much rust built up in them that the unit wouldn't start at first and when it finally did, it sounded like a tractor trailer idling and would vibrate like crazy. Since it was a 2 year old unit (that cost $600) and we weren't going to throw it out just yet, I took it apart and changed the bearings... and put in US-made stainless steel bearings (at $20 a pop) instead of the Chinese pot-metal ones that were originally in it. Ever since, this A/C unit has worked better and quieter than ever before.

Moral of the story: bearings can rust out to the point of completely seizing a machine, sometimes in a single season.


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## monstermike

Thanks guys. I changed the auger v-belt over the weekend and everything seems to be working and turning now. The belt was toast all right! 

Just need some snow to give it a real world test. Thanks to all for your assistance!

Mike


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## monstermike

Hi Guys,

We had a heavy snow fall yesterday and the plow gave me quite the pile at the end of the driveway. The auger is spinning and throwing but my second stage seems to not be engaging (when load is heavy) as it should be. When it really gets bogged sounds like something is slipping. I was cheap and only replaced the auger belt and was going to wait till it warms up to change the other one. 

What are your thoughts? Is it the other belt? Auger belt need adjustment? Something else? Many thanks

Mike


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## classiccat

belt tension is the 1st thing to check; you should have very little deflection when the auger is engaged. Also, are the belts & pulley clean/dry?

Excessive engine RPM drop also becomes a vicious circle as the impeller slows, it's not clearing the load fast enough. 

You may also want to consider an impeller modification if you haven't done so already.


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## monstermike

Auger belt tension to check right? How much deflection should there be approx when auger is engaged and what's the best way to check that?

Auger belt is dry along with the pulleys

My RPM are dropping when I hit a large/heavy load and the second stage doesn't seem to be kicking in when it should be. It use to throw the snow miles when the second stage kicked in!!!

Possible to expand on the impeller modification. Thanks

Mike


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## UNDERTAKER

monstermike said:


> Auger belt tension to check right? How much deflection should there be approx when auger is engaged and what's the best way to check that?
> 
> Auger belt is dry along with the pulleys
> 
> My RPM are dropping when I hit a large/heavy load and the second stage doesn't seem to be kicking in when it should be. It use to throw the snow miles when the second stage kicked in!!!
> 
> Possible to expand on the impeller modification. Thanks
> 
> Mike


FORGET the auger issue the lost of rpms has to do with the engine. for the belt tension there should be minimal deflection in the belt when engaged.


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## monstermike

What can I do to check the engine. Throttle cable adjustment? Should I replace the drive belt sooner than later? Thanks

Mike


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## UNDERTAKER

monstermike said:


> What can I do to check the engine. Throttle cable adjustment? Should I replace the drive belt sooner than later? Thanks
> 
> Mike


 let me find BROTHER GRUNT. he is the man in the know on those engines.


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## classiccat

monstermike said:


> What can I do to check the engine. Throttle cable adjustment? Should I replace the drive belt sooner than later? Thanks
> 
> Mike


Hey Mike, the 1st thing I would check is compression & where your RPMs are when you're not under load. It's not out of the ordinary to drop a couple hundred RPM when you get a full bucket of slop.

We stepped a few guys through this exercise already this winter...decarb, valve job (lapping then adjusting clearance to be in-spec) & a new head gasket.


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## classiccat

Dave C's thread is a great example of SBF helping a brutha out!


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## monstermike

To be honest when I fire it up it doesn't seem to be at full power. You guys have me thinking I should check my throttle cable. Maybe something screwed up there.

When I put it in first gear doesn't seem to be at full power! I'll have a look tonight and get back you all. Thanks

Mike


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## monstermike

After reading Dave C's thread another idea came to me. How can I disable the safety switch. It's been doing some crazy things as of late on me. Shutting the engine off when the safety handle is engaged so that maybe the culprit? Thanks

Mike


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## UNDERTAKER

monstermike said:


> After reading Dave C's thread another idea came to me. How can I disable the safety switch. It's been doing some crazy things as of late on me. Shutting the engine off when the safety handle is engaged so that maybe the culprit? Thanks
> 
> Mike


 unplug the grounding wire that goes to the engine.


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## monstermike

Hi Guys,

Seems there something intermittent going on. I'd like to disable the safety switch because is doing nothing now but causing me headaches. Anyone know how much a new one costs? I was told to disconnect the ground wire but there's two of them. I've attached some pictures to assist with you guiding me through the process. I guess I can't just disconnect it at the top where the connector is? Thanks

Mike


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## classiccat

That red wire coming off of the interlock safety module (attached to the engine shroud) is the one you want to disconnect from the ignition ground node.

That node is isolated from ground until you either move the throttle control all of the down or the safety circuit says so.

if your machine has an alternator or stator, I'm redesigning my safety circuit to use a relay instead of that nonsense module....ill let you know if/when I get that ironed out.


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## monstermike

OK I'll disconnect the red wire tonight and see if that does the trick! That module is quite flaky on my machine.


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## classiccat

monstermike said:


> OK I'll disconnect the red wire tonight and see if that does the trick! That module is quite flaky on my machine.


 Horrible (!) design...especially considering that our machines don't use deadman controls. W-T-H were they thinking???  

Our problem is that all of the limit switches are the opposite condition (NC) to simply ground the ignition when either the tractor or auger is engaged & the handlebar switch (NO) is not. So if you have a source of power, we should be able to ground the ignition using a relay. You just won't be able to dummy-proof it against starting the machine with the auger &/or traction engaged. Once I'm done slapping a floodlight on mine, i'll try to whip somethin' up for us.


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## monstermike

Sounds great. Thanks!

Mike


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## monstermike

I had another big dump of snow and the snow blower wasn't throwing very well and heard something slipping. I opened the belt cover (it was completely dry and clean in there) and noticed the new auger belt was rather loose (I guess the new belt stretched). I tightened it so we'll see how it works next snow fall.

I'm still having issues the the safety interlock module part number #41-8601 and seems it's no longer available. I disconnect the "red wire" and the snow blower didn't run very well so I reconnected. Is there someway I can bypass this switch completely (there's 2 "black" guessing ground wires going to the module as well)? I have no children yet and will be the only one using the machine. Thank you in advance.


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## classiccat

1 of the blacks goes to your ignition coil.

The other black wire goes to the throttle control.

Then of course you have your red wire from your interlock module.

All 3 of these wires are connected to 1 node that is intended to kill the ignition...*NOTE: the screw connecting those 3 wires is in a plastic tab which keeps the node isolated from ground*.

the node is grounded in 2 ways,
- through the interlock module's metal case (_which is grounded_)...when the interlock module thinks that the traction &/or auger are engaged without you holding down the handlebar switch
- you move the throttle control to the "off" position.

By disconnecting the red wire from the ignition-kill node, you prevent the interlock module from grounding the ignition.

I hope that takes some of the mystery away!


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## monstermike

Thanks! I apologize electrical, switches and relays aren't my strength. I understand what all the wires are doing now....I think. 

So to bypass the interlock module I just simply need to remove the "red" wire and I'll tape the end of the "red" wire with some electrical tape (or I guess I could just take the module off completely then?). Is it usually the interlock module that goes bad and not the handle switch? 

Any reason why when I did this before the engine ran poorly (I didn't tape the end of the "red" wire so maybe it touched some metal?) Thank you


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## classiccat

monstermike said:


> Thanks! I apologize electrical, switches and relays aren't my strength. I understand what all the wires are doing now....I think.
> 
> So to bypass the interlock module I just simply need to remove the "red" wire and I'll tape the end of the "red" wire with some electrical tape (or I guess I could just take the module off completely then?). Is it usually the interlock module that goes bad and not the handle switch?
> 
> Any reason why when I did this before the engine ran poorly (I didn't tape the end of the "red" wire so maybe it touched some metal?) Thank you


Correct. The NLA part that's responsible for the entire safety system is the weakest link.

Maybe you're lucky and the interlock module is fine.

If you want to test the switching circuit to see if there's an issue there, unplug the connector from the interlock module and test continuity at different states between the 2 connector leads (_a basic ohmmeter should read near zero ohms_). Continuity keeps the machine running...when you break continuity (_infinite ohms_), then the interlock module grounds the ignition. 

For example:
* with nothing engaged (_traction or auger_) then you should have continuity regardless of whether or not the handlebar switch is squeezed. 

* with traction and/or auger engaged and the handlebar switch is not squeezed, you should have an open (_infinite resistance_)...this condition will shut the machine down.

* with traction and/or auger engaged and the handlebar switch is squeezed, you should have continuity again (_near-zero resistance_).

* the key switch should ground the ignition when off (_infinite resistance_) regardless of the other control states.

If your machine has a stator for lights, then we should be able to ground the ignition using a relay. Otherwise all of the switches needed to be replaced to an opposite condition (_normally-closed --> normally-open and vice-versa; the handlebar switch is the biggest p.i.t.a._)


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## monstermike

Hi Guys,

Winter is approaching and need to get back on this and start getting the snowblower back in proper form. Possible to provide a step by step guide how to properly remove the safety interlock switch so the machine will run without the safety feature please. I think Classiccat alluded to how but need a step by step if possible. Also Classiccat any luck coming up with that relay? As mentioned previously the interlock module is no longer available and the snowblower doesn't operate very well in it's current condition. Thanks


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## UNDERTAKER

monstermike said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Winter is approaching and need to get back on this and start getting the snowblower back in proper form. Possible to provide a step by step guide how to properly remove the safety interlock switch so the machine will run without the safety feature please. I think Classiccat alluded to how but need a step by step if possible. Also Classiccat any luck coming up with that relay? As mentioned previously the interlock module is no longer available and the snowblower doesn't operate very well in it's current condition. Thanks


Just gut the whole thing out of there. you can not get parts and from the sounds of it it does not to run in the current state of affairs. just yank the whole thing out.k:k:k:k:k:


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## Grunt

Hello Mike. By unplugging the two wire connector and removing the red wire from the insulated block, you now have eliminated the ignition switch, auger and traction drive interlocks. The throttle control pulled to the slow/stop position will still kill the engine. The engine will run fine with these disconnected and if your engine is running funny, you have a different problem. I have the same machine and just went out to run it with the module removed and it runs perfect. As you said earlier, you have no children operating the machine and as long as your "aware" of the eliminated safeties, you should be ok.


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## UNDERTAKER

Grunt said:


> Hello Mike. By unplugging the two wire connector and removing the red wire from the insulated block, you now have eliminated the ignition switch, auger and traction drive interlocks. The throttle control pulled to the slow/stop position will still kill the engine. The engine will run fine with these disconnected and if your engine is running funny, you have a different problem. I have the same machine and just went out to run it with the module removed and it runs perfect. As you said earlier, you have no children operating the machine and as long as your "aware" of the eliminated safeties, you should be ok.


:rock::rock::bowing::bowing:


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## monstermike

Thanks Grunt,

Was able to make quick work of removing the safety interlock module and engine fired perfectly on the first pull so think we solved that issue. Everyting is running perfectly.

However still having some problem with my initial issue the auger drive belt. I purchased the proper auger belt from an authorized Toro dealer but seems there's too much slack in it. I've attached a couple of photos. When I engaged it makes a screeching noise like it's slipping then catching. Auger engages but I was having issues blowing the snow last winter (second stage would not kick in when the snow was heavy and deep). My guess is the belt is too lose and is slipping when under a harder load? Is this possible?

Did I by chance get a mislabeled belt? Do we know the circumference/length of the auger belt? May take it off to measure it to make sure it's the right one. I tightened the rod to the max from what I can tell to increase the tension on it. See attached pics. Many thanks for all your assistance on this. 

Mike


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## 43128

i would say that you have a worn impeller bushing






could also be a shredded gearbox


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## monstermike

There's not much play in the auger pulley. How do I know for sure it's that without opening it all up? Or is that the only way? 

Anything else I should try first? Thanks

Mike


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## Grunt

43128 may be on to something with a possible mechanical problem. Does your auger drive pulley have any up/down or side/side movement?

I just measured my new spare Dayton 4L400 (1/2"x40") auger belt. It is 7/16" thick, 1/2" wide and 40" measured around the outside of the belt. Toro part number is 26-9670 for the 1/2"x40" auger belt.

Disregard checking for play, we were typing at the same time.


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## 43128

monstermike said:


> There's not much play in the auger pulley. How do I know for sure it's that without opening it all up? Or is that the only way?
> 
> Anything else I should try first? Thanks
> 
> Mike


yeah but even a little bit of play is enough to mess things up, there should be no play at all


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## monstermike

Hi Guys,

There's practically zero play in the auger pulley either side to side or up and down. Seems to be spinning fine when engaged it's just when a heavy load is put through it. Maybe it was just an issue with that safety module not allowing the engine to rev properly to generate the extra power required for the second stage to kick in.

Everything seems to be working and spinning when the auger lever is engaged. I'll take the belt off tonight and measure it up and take it from there. If the belt is correct size I'll try and tighten the adjustment up some more. Thanks

Mike


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## Grunt

monstermike said:


> Maybe it was just an issue with that safety module not allowing the engine to rev properly to generate the extra power required for the second stage to kick in.


The interlock module would have no effect on engine performance. You may have a governor issue or the carb needs to be adjusted properly for high speed operation. It could also be an exhaust valve staying open slightly after the engine warms up. Have you ever checked your valve clearances?


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## classiccat

monstermike said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Winter is approaching and need to get back on this and start getting the snowblower back in proper form. Possible to provide a step by step guide how to properly remove the safety interlock switch so the machine will run without the safety feature please. I think Classiccat alluded to how but need a step by step if possible. Also Classiccat any luck coming up with that relay? As mentioned previously the interlock module is no longer available and the snowblower doesn't operate very well in it's current condition. Thanks


Hey Monstermike, I haven't touched the Toro since I summerized it...while at my previous residence. Now that I'm all relocated & slowly getting my new workshop squared away, I'll look into that relay circuit...but don't hold your breath waiting for me...with a new house/property, my "HoneyDo" list is reset to full :redface:


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## monstermike

Hey Guys,

We had our first large dump of snow today, 25cms! Everything is running smoothly but still don't seem to have full power. It use to throw snow a mile!! Now when it gets into the heavy stuff it throws it but not very far. Could it be the drive belt or possible to advise how to adjust the carb? Hopefully it's just a simply adjustment there..... Thanks

Mike


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## classiccat

Hey Mike, It could be that your main jet is off a bit...either too-lean (not enough fuel under load) or too-rich (too much fuel under load). With some heavy white stuff out there as a proving grounds, try 1/4 turn in each direction to see if things improve.

Other things to check are compression as well as the RPMs that she's running at different load conditions (no load, moderate load, heavy load).


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## monstermike

I adjusted the carb and it's running right on now. I adjusted the govenor a turn in as well but didn't really do anything. When I get into the heavy stuff it bogs down and that second power stage just doesn't click in. Anything else I can try and adjust Thanks

Mike


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## classiccat

monstermike said:


> I adjusted the carb and it's running right on now. I adjusted the govenor a turn in as well but didn't really do anything. When I get into the heavy stuff it bogs down and that second power stage just doesn't click in. Anything else I can try and adjust Thanks
> 
> Mike


If your machine doesn't have the compression, it won't have the oompff during the power stroke. That's the 1st thing I check when I see a neighbor's machine doggin' it in the EOD. Valve job & a new head gasket are usually the remedy.


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## Kiss4aFrog

What is it you're adjusting when you say you adjusted the governor a turn ??

Photo maybe ??


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## monstermike

Classiccat I think you got it. Low compression. When I pull the starting cord no compression builds up. Looks like it will need a valve job. Is that hard/expensive to do. Thanks

Mike


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## classiccat

monstermike said:


> Classiccat I think you got it. Low compression. When I pull the starting cord no compression builds up. Looks like it will need a valve job. Is that hard/expensive to do. Thanks
> 
> Mike


might be putting the cart before the horse...low compression can be a result of several problems: blown head gasket, loose head bolts, cylinder &/or ring wear and/or inadequate valve clearance. The right way to isolate the problem is with a leak-down tester. You basically pressurize the cylinder and watch the gauge for leaks...then listen for the hiss to isolate the source.

With that said, I usually just use a standard compression tester...ideally with electric start to overcome the compression loss from the compression release lobes. If you have pull-start only, then it's of a guessing game depending how fast you can pull it over...I'd say below 50psi on the recoil, you have a problem. These engines should be able to get over 90psi with the starter. 

If you get a low psi reading, try 1st re-torquing the head bolts when the engine is warm (order and amounts are listed in the L-head service manual: link here). 

If you still get low compression, then check the valve lash with the piston at TDC by removing the breather and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the lifter & valve stem. In adequate (sometimes zero) valve lash means the valve is being held open at TDC & you're losing compression through the valve. A valve job consists of removing the valves, grinding the stems to achieve the appropriate lash & lapping the valve (see 



 <-- many videos like this one)...keep in mind that lapping brings the valve stem closer to the lifter...and you need some space in order to seat. So I first set the lash...and go to the high-side of the spec (per the service manual). Then when I lap the valve, it will be in the middle of the spec-range.

The tools/materials you need for this: 

 Compression gauge
 lapping tool
 lapping compound
 feeler gauge (thin metal strips...not the ones for checking spark plug gap)
 valve spring tool (there are tricks if you don't have one...search youtube)
 new head gasket
 new breather gasket
 new intake gasket from removing the carb/intake pipe.

sorry for the long-winded reply! I just don't want to see a Toro Brutha chasing his tail on this one!


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## 43128

if i were you i would repower the machine fore now and make the engine into a summer project. its not a hard job, but its not a job you want to be doing in the middle of the winter


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## Terrance

I have read this whole thread and this seems like the beginning stages of when my old Toro's motor gave up the ghost (In my opinion). This is the perfect opportunity to buy yourself a new one; [which is what we did] We could afford it at the time and got our present Troy-bilt 2410 from Lowes. However, that being said it is also the perfect time to diagnose your problem because buying a new one won't satisfy that itch to know what was wrong in the back of your mind.


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## monstermike

Hi Guys,

Thank you all for your assistance on this. I had my mechanic friend swing by and he read through the posted reply's. Luckily I have a heated garage. He worked on it for an hour or so re-torqued engine bolts, checked compression, and took apart and cleaned the carb. Adjusted and tuned everything and she's back to life!!! Running strong and the power stroke is engaging. Had an issue with my newly replaced auger belt. Seems it was not the correct one (even though it was the correct part number) it was too loose and was slipping. Went back to the Toro dealership and got a new one and this one seems to fit tighter with no slippage. Just need a big snowfall again to test it out to see if it's all fixed.

One final question. While doing the work we noticed the exhaust bolt was missing. I think it's Tecumseh Screw Part # 792093. Does anyone know by chance why size and length that screw is so I can just run down to the local hardware store and get one. Should I put some locktite on it? It seems to rattle loose on me. I remember tightening it a few times but guess I missed it this time and lost it. Many thanks again to all for your help!!

Mike


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## Grunt

Hello Mike, glad to hear you have everything back to normal. I would write the part number of the new belt on your parts list so you know what number to use in the future. Kinda strange it doesn't use the specified belt number.

If your muffler is the same as shown in the attached video, the bolts are 5/16"-18 x 4" long. The tabbed bolt keeper shown in the video keeps the bolts from loosening. I hope this helps.


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