# First use: Ariens Path-Pro SS21 136 21" 938030



## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

I've had this machine for a couple weeks and today was my first chance to try it. We only had about 3" of snow, but it needed to be cleaned up so it doens't ice over tonight and cause surprises in the morning.

The machine does an outstanding job of cleaning down to bare pavement - - see photo below. The engine starts on first pull and settles into smooth and fairly quiet operation. There is no throttle setting, it's just one speed. I can only compare this unit to my previous Toro CCR2000 machines and the Ariens feels heavier and it's not thrown around as easily as the small Toros, which I'll miss.

While we didn't have much snow, the unit has very good power, especially when it hits a heavy pile of snow - - this thing really throws the snow a distance. Appears to be quite a bit superior to the Toro in that regards.

The handle bars are longer than the Toro so you feel like you are quite a bit further away from the front edge of the machine making it feel less nimble than the Toro. I guess I'll have to get used to that.

I think the belt might be slightly loose. I'll see if that can be adjusted. The fuel cutoff seems to be stuck. I can't turn it more than a couple of degrees.

Does anyone else find the choke control very odd on these engines? Both my new Ariens are the same: you can rotate the choke CW or CCW and it has some effect in both directions  The center position is choke open. Maybe it's that Chinese thing at work again 

This cheapie version ($400) does not have the remote chute control. I thought that might really bother me, but maybe it won't. I think the add-on remote kit is $80  Not sure if I'm going to spring for that.

All in all, quite the value for $400!





































We are due some man-size snowfalls later this week and again on the weekend. I'll have a better chance to assess how this unit does in serious snow and I'm not planning on being disappointed


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

I like mine as well. 

My chokes on both my Path-Pro and Pro 32 are normal. One way is full on and the other way is full off. 

My gas valve was hard at first but once it got some fuel in it it was fine. It's just a little sticky from being dry.

I have the 208cc one, but I probably could have got away with the smaller one. I just didn't know how much power it was going to have and thought I would rather error on the side of too much than not enough.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

OK, thanks JR.

Yeah, the power (torque) is quite surprising on this engine. The town plow came by again after I had finished so I went back to clear the muck plowed onto the driveway apron. This Ariens literally blasts thru the heavy, dense snow like it was nothing. This heavy snow would have stalled the Toro unless I had been crawling along. The Ariens is ready to do battle!


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

As far as starting, try this...it works great for both of my Ariens. They start first pull and don't have any stumbling around at all.

Fuel > On 
Ignition > On
Choke > 3/4
Prime twice
Pull
Vroom.

On my Path-Pro I normally have to leave it on 3/4 choke for a bit (10 seconds or so) after it starts and then move it to 1/2 choke for a bit and then finally turn the choke off completely. If I don't do this and move it immediately to choke off it will stumble some until it warms up a bit. Doing what I describe above should have it start on the first pull and run w/o stumbling or loading up. This method works on my Path-Pro, my Pro 32, my uncles Pro 28 and my friends Compact 22 (which has the identical 208cc I have in my Path-Pro). I'm thinking your issues with your choke are you are not giving it enough time to warm up and when you turn it off it starts to stumble which makes you think the choke is on when it's truly off. I'm also guessing, if you are using it with the choke in the middle, you are operating it with partial choke on the whole time. I would not make a habit out of doing this.

One other thing, I never start it on full choke, as if I do the engine will stumble as soon as it starts. Doing things as I described above should start the engine first pull without any stumbling around (running lean) or loading up (running rich).


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

No, I'm not having any starting issues at all. This sucker fires up on first pull every time. Very simple. What I was asking about is the various settings on the choke. I've honestly never seen anything like it and both these new Ariens seem to be identical in terms of the rotary dial. 921030 pictured below since photographing is much easier  :


















I'm going to call Position 0 the run position or no choke.

I think Position 1 is half choke.

I think Position 2 and 3 are full choke.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

uberT said:


> No, I'm not having any starting issues at all. This sucker fires up on first pull every time. Very simple. What I was asking about is the various settings on the choke. I've honestly never seen anything like it and both these new Ariens seem to be identical in terms of the rotary dial. 921030 pictured below since photographing is much easier  :
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yeah, I was just referring to using the choke in relation to starting and running. I still firmly believe you are running your engine on partial choke when you think it's fully off. 2 should be full choke and 3 should be choke 100% off.

I have two new Ariens and my buddy has a new Ariens (Compact 22) and all three of those are like I state. If yours will not run while on choke position 3 WHEN WARMED UP, then I believe the tuning is set too lean or you are at a higher elevation where the air is thinner.

If you would take a look at how the choke works, it would be almost impossible to make it work the way you state. The choke plate is directly linked to the knob.

You can also look in the manual, I'm sure it will tell you how the choke works and what the positions are.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

JRHAWK9 said:


> yeah, I was just referring to using the choke in relation to starting and running. I still firmly believe you are running your engine on partial choke when you think it's fully off. 2 should be full choke and 3 should be choke 100% off.
> 
> I have two new Ariens and my buddy has a new Ariens (Compact 22) and all three of those are like I state. If yours will not run while on choke position 3 WHEN WARMED UP, then I believe the tuning is set too lean.
> 
> If you would take a look at how the choke works, it would be almost impossible to make it work the way you state. The choke plate is directly linked to the knob.


Ok, so you're saying Position 3 (fully CW) is no choke and fully CCW, Position 2, is max choke. I'll got back and look again. I'm going to run the 921030 for the first time later this morning, JR.

When I got to Position 3 on the Path Pro, the engine immediately starts to die like it's running way too rich.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

One of the two extremes should be choke off and the other will be full choke. Take a look in your manual, it should say which is which.

If it stumbles and the engine starts to smoke, it's too rich. If it stumbles with no smoke it's too lean. Both a rich and lean condition will cause it to stumble.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

I assumed the owners manual would fully explain what the four choke positions are, and why they are numbered 3, 0, 1, 2, but sadly, it does not:

http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/04535800A_ENG.pdf

My guess:

Position 0 - partial "mostly closed" choke, the normal "start" position.
Position 1 - slightly more open, move here for a few seconds after starting.
Position 2 - then move here, Choke open, the normal "run" position.

Under normal circumstances, those should be the only three you use.

Position 3 - Full choke, should never need to use, but might need to occasionally, for starting.

The number sequence seems odd, but if I am correct, it might make sense:

3 - Full choke (lets say "100% choke")
0 - partial choke, mostly closed (start position) (lets say "75% choke")
1 - partial choke, mostly open, a little more open from position zero. (lets say "25% choke")
2 - choke open, "No choke" - the running/operating position. (lets say "0% choke")
(those percentages are just a guess..)

So normally you should go in sequence 0 to 1 to 2 when starting and operating,
and you shouldnt need to use position 3, but its there in case its needed.

Disclaimer..the above is a GUESS!  
not having seen one of these machines in person, I have no idea if I am right or not.

Scot


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

sscotsman said:


> So normally you should go in sequence 0 to 1 to 2 when starting and operating,
> and you shouldn't need to use position 3, but its there in case its needed.
> 
> Disclaimer..the above is a GUESS!
> ...



I agree.

Although your guess is just mirror image of my guess...lol

I based my guess on the fact that he uses position 0 as "no choke" which I assumed is the closest to being choke off (1/4 choke). I wouldn't think it would run very good at 3/4 choke. This is why I guessed at position 3 being choke off as opposed to your guess of position 2.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

JRHAWK9 said:


> I agree.
> 
> Although your guess is just mirror image of my guess...lol
> 
> I based my guess on the fact that he uses position 0 as "no choke" which I assumed is the closest to being choke off (1/4 choke). I wouldn't think it would run very good at 3/4 choke. This is why I guessed at position 3 being choke off as opposed to your guess of position 2.


you could be right!
but then you would be going 2, 1, 0, 3 when starting and operating the machine..which makes no sense..of course the numbering doesn't make much sense "my way" either! ..Ariens has dropped the ball on this one, the manual should have been far clearer..

I think it needs to be "full choke" on one end, and "no choke" on the other..
its either 2, 1, 0, 3 from "full on" or "full off"..or its 3, 0, 1, 2.

Position 0 couldn't be "no choke"..because if so, what is 3?

Scot


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

The numbering doesn't have to make sense seeing it's the OP numbering, not Ariens.

I agree, full choke is on one end and no choke on the other


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

JR, what do you mean by "OP numbering"?
im not following..
Scot


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

The way it looks to me is he just wrote on a piece of paper and placed it there to make it easier for him to describe to us what his process was. I don't think Ariens has any numbering system for the choke. Both my Path-Pro and Pro 32 don't and just show a wedge-like symbol which is supposed to represent no choke (at the tip) to full choke (at the top of the wedge).

Here's the closest photo I have of my Path-Pro's choke knob area:


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

JRHAWK9 said:


> One of the two extremes should be choke off and the other will be full choke. Take a look in your manual, it should say which is which.


Yeah, that's what I'd hope for.

What I find odd is the Quick Start Guides for both machines suggest fully CW is max choke. 

I'm going to assume that fully CCW is no choke. 

I'll post these slides if y'all want to see.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

OK, I just looked at both machines again. They both have the identical label that suggests fully CW is max choke, fully CCW is no choke or RUN position. It didn't seem like the Path Pro would run in the fully CCW position. I'll try again.

I'm heading out in a bit and will see what's what 

Do we know why the choke would have three positions?


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

JRHAWK9 said:


> The way it looks to me is he just wrote on a piece of paper and placed it there to make it easier for him to describe to us what his process was. I don't think Ariens has any numbering system for the choke.


oh! ok.."OP" means "Original Poster"..(I didnt get that! 
I assumed the OP just wrote 3, 0, 1, 2 on the piece of paper so that the numbers could be more easily seen in the photos..and that it actually said 3, 0, 1, 2 on the choke dial..It doesnt actually say that? ok..now im even *more* confused then!  Then what does 3, 0, 1, 2 stand for then? I guess I have to go back to the beginning of this thread and start over..I thought I was following it, but apparently not..

Scot


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

ok, I went back and re-read..

Uber, I dont think anyone understands why you wrote 3, 0, 1, 2 on the piece of paper..

I have been assuming those were the actual numbers written on the machine, and you just made the piece of paper so that the numbers would stand out more clearly for the photographs..but apparently that isnt the case afterall?

Then what do those numbers mean to you? and why are they in the order they are in? and what is *actually* written alongside the dial? is there anything there at all?

thanks,
Scot


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

sscotsman said:


> ok, I went back and re-read..
> 
> Uber, I dont think anyone understands why you wrote 3, 0, 1, 2 on the piece of paper..
> 
> ...


What I got out of his numbering is he set "0" being what he perceived as the no choke/run position. The rest he just randomly numbered.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

uberT said:


> Do we know why the choke would have three positions?


Because for us "anal" people who like to dial in their starting procedure in such a way where the motor doesn't choke or sputter, it makes things easier. This is why I told you to try my starting procedure, as it's worked flawless on four other Ariens blowers. Although FIRST you need to figure out which direction is full choke vs no choke...lol 

My guess is you started it on full choke and when the motor immediately started to load up you turned it fully the other way, which is choke off. Then it started to sputter again from a lean condition. You then backed it off one click (which is 1/4 choke) where it smoothed out and you thought it was choke off. You essentially went from a too rich condition (full choke) to a too lean condition (choke off) too soon, as the motor needs to run a little bit with partial choke before you can turn it off completely.

Try doing what I mentioned above. No need to start full choke. Start it with 3/4 choke and let it run 5-10 seconds like that, then back it down to 1/4 choke and then choke fully off. Both my two start first pull and don't load up or stumble AT ALL using this method. I also started my uncles Pro 28 using this method and my friends Compact 22 with the same results. I don't know why yours would be any different. Temperature WILL play a role in how soon you can go from 3/4 choke to 1/2 choke to completely off. The colder it is the longer you may have to let it run at 3/4 choke.

I basically have starting my two blowers down to a science to where they start first pull every time and do so w/o any sputtering when they first start.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

sscotsman said:


> ok, I went back and re-read..
> 
> Uber, I dont think anyone understands why you wrote 3, 0, 1, 2 on the piece of paper..


 
I made the assumption that 0 was the running position, it's not.

OK, I've got this figured out now and comprehend why I was so far off the mark.

When I used the machine for the first time I rapidly went from full choke to no choke and thought the machine was stalling...it wasn't. It just wasn't ready to come off choke completely and died. I found this morning that it wants a bit of choke for at least 1 minute, perhaps 2. 

I'm accustomed to the Toros where I'd go from full choke to no choke and start blowing snow, all within 30 seconds or less. This 4 cycle motor isn't going to tolerate that. It's more cold blooded than I realized. I guess I'm too used to all these 2 stroke engines on the OPE.

JR, I agree with what you've said. Full choke is CW and choke off is CCW. And it's going to need just a bit of choke while it warms up.

Now, my next problem  I used the big machine today for the first time and the damned heated grips are pulling off. It looks like the shop forgot to install a thru-bolt/screw or something to keep the hand grips in place. It looks like whatever I'm missing is very thin. Can someone with heated grips let me know what the hardware looks like that holds the grips in place??

Thanks.

BTW, this Path Pro is awesome in heavy snow !!  We've had a 1' so far today. I think more is coming for this evening


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

uberT said:


> I made the assumption that 0 was the running position, it's not.
> 
> OK, I've got this figured out now and comprehend why I was so far off the mark.
> 
> ...


I figured all along that was your problem and why I replied the way I did originally telling you to try my starting method. I even tried summing up your issue a couple posts above, when I posted:



> My guess is you started it on full choke and when the motor immediately started to load up you turned it fully the other way, which is choke off. Then it started to sputter again from a lean condition. You then backed it off one click (which is 1/4 choke) where it smoothed out and you thought it was choke off. You essentially went from a too rich condition (full choke) to a too lean condition (choke off) too soon, as the motor needs to run a little bit with partial choke before you can turn it off completely.


These new EPA motors are set to run pretty lean to meet EPA standards, so most have a hard time running on no choke when cold.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

JRHAWK9 said:


> I figured all along that was your problem and why I replied the way I did originally telling you to try my starting method. I even tried summing up your issue a couple posts above, when I posted:
> 
> 
> These new EPA motors are set to run pretty lean to meet EPA standards, so most have a hard time running on no choke when cold.


JR, thanks for the assist on all of this. I do appreciate it and followed what you said when I went out this morning. I think much of it has to do with complete lack of familiarity with these machines and a 3-step choke which I can't say I've seen before. I feel much more comfortable this evening after spending a couple hours with both machines. Now I need to figure out why the hand grips are falling off the big machine 

When all warmed up, both engines are smooth running and relatively quiet, good power, minimal exhaust odor. I like not having to shower and change clothes after using the snow blowers


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

uberT said:


> JR, thanks for the assist on all of this. I do appreciate it and followed what you said when I went out this morning. I think much of it has to do with complete lack of familiarity with these machines and a 3-step choke which I can't say I've seen before. I feel much more comfortable this evening after spending a couple hours with both machines. Now I need to figure out why the hand grips are falling off the big machine
> 
> When all warmed up, both engines are smooth running and relatively quiet, good power, minimal exhaust odor. I like not having to shower and change clothes after using the snow blowers


yeah, it took a bit for me to get my starting procedure down, but now I have it licked.

Take a look at the photo below of my hand grips on my Pro 32. They are original equipment. Were yours installed after you took delivery as an add-on?


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

JRHAWK9 said:


> Take a look at the photo below of my hand grips on my Pro 32. They are original equipment. Were yours installed after you took delivery as an add-on?


The selling dealer installed them.

I can see the top of a little screw or pin near the end of the grips in your foto. That's what I am missing.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

uberT said:


> The selling dealer installed them.
> 
> I can see the top of a little screw or pin near the end of the grips in your foto. That's what I am missing.


and yet another case of a clueless dealer.  unbelievable....


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Weird thing is, they're a huge player and I would have expected more from them.

Edit:

I just found a clear foto of the kit used on my machine and it does not appear the rivets thru those holes are included:


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## Snowmann (Dec 24, 2012)

Rivets are used to index the grip terminals and position the grips until the epoxy hardens. Your dealer must have missed the epoxy, or didn't mix it correctly. Hysol 608 is a 2 part adhesive.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

Snowman, he did apply the epoxy. When the grips pulled off I could see it was very thin and not uniform in application.

I've ordered some super-duper Honda motorcycle grip glue. I also found some very thin screws in my tool chest that are just about perfect in terms of dia and length.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

As an update to this thread, I spent a few more hours with the Path Pro yesterday and again this morning dealing with a heavy, wet snowfall of about 6". The Path Pro was able to throw this heavy slop quite a distance. I'd have to say significantly farther than my Toro CCR2000 machines. The engine runs great, fires up on first pull and settles into nice, smooth operation. 

The torque output appears to be somewhat better than the small Toros as I've been able to move the snow plow slop left in the driveway apron with no issues at all. It would have taken me somewhat longer to clear the same area with the Toros. 

I'm *very* pleased with this purchase  OTOH, I'm undecided whether the new 921030 is vastly superior to my 2005 MTD. It's left me luke warm so far in terms of spending $1000 

Is it my imagination or do the Ariens machines, in general, throw snow much farther than competitors? I was in the car for quite a while yesterday and saw many homeowners operating their snow blowers. I noticed most throwing snow an average distance and I noticed a few throwing snow much farther. Everyone one of these machines with the superior distance was an Ariens two-stage.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

One year later, I've decided the little Path Pro is worth its weight in gold. I'm 110% pleased with the purchase and the machine's performance. An outstanding Ariens' value  I can't really find any fault with it. I guess I could complain about the location of fuel shut off valve or the fact that it has completely flat-spotted one of its tires... but that would be just for the sake of complaining


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

A lady friend of mine has the 208cc with the remote chute. Her choke is cw full on with 3 detents ccw. When I assembled it for her showed how it works. Well first snow fall it would not start. Calls me and had to talk her through the choke. The label is not clear. She has only used it 2x but she very happy with it. throws slush like crazy, she can maneuver it just fine. My only complaint is the shut off should be more accessible.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

uberT said:


> One year later, I've decided the little Path Pro is worth its weight in gold. I'm 110% pleased with the purchase and the machine's performance. An outstanding Ariens' value  I can't really find any fault with it. I guess I could complain about the location of fuel shut off valve or the fact that it has completely flat-spotted one of its tires... but that would be just for the sake of complaining


 Did the tire flat spot while sitting over the summer? If so I will my friend store hers with the tires off the ground.


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## uberT (Dec 29, 2013)

scrappy said:


> Did the tire flat spot while sitting over the summer? If so I will my friend store hers with the tires off the ground.


It seemed like the wheel had a bit of wobble to it that got worse over time and then developed a flat spot. So, now it wobbles and has a flat spot on one side  It doesn't seem like it's worse from sitting over the summer.

Do I recall these tires are semi-pneumatic?

Yeah, the choke configuration is a bit odd. It's one way on my two stage and opposite on the Path Pro.

What I didn't like on the two stage was the choke knob freezing when it sat outside a day or two ago. That wasn't terribly helpful when I went to re-start the machine a couple hours later.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

The wheel/tire assembly and axle appeared better more robust than the toro SS that we saw at HD. Maybe just a fluke?

Time will tell. She is 55 yrs old, born and raised in Canada. This is her first snow blower ever, even her family never had one! (WTF) One happy owner!


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## Ariens Company (Nov 1, 2013)

uberT said:


> Yeah, that's what I'd hope for.
> 
> What I find odd is the Quick Start Guides for both machines suggest fully CW is max choke.
> 
> ...


You are correct, and I just want to clarify - 

Tech Service said Clockwise is "on." and Counter-clockwise is "off." The position varies on the Ariens AX engines, but they are all Clockwise for "on."

Thanks.

Mary Lyn


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

uberT said:


> or the fact that it has completely flat-spotted one of its tires...


Interesting observation, as I noticed the same thing on my path pro this fall.

I purchased my little path pro spring of 2014. I feel I got a screaming deal from my dealer. I got it home (while my neighbors where dethatching their yards, should'da seen the looks I got) wheeled it around my garage, looking over my new toy, then wheeled it into my shed for the summer. I would have noticed the "limp" then, I know I would have. This fall when I pulled it out of the shed, pulled it thru the grass, and went no more the 5 feet on my blacktop driveway, I would feel the limp. Took it to the dealer and had them look at it, and they said nothing was wrong with it. I still feel the limp, but I'm dealing with it.

I did purchase the $80.00 remote chute kit thing, and that was $80.00 well spent. Took a little to get it installed, but I got it.


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## Overthebars (Nov 23, 2017)

I've Narrowed my single-stage purchase down to an Ariens, but I can't decide between the regular Path Pro and the new Commercial version.... that commercial remote chute adjustment just looks more sturdy to me... anyone have any experience with one?


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