# Ariens Snowblower



## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

I have an Ariens Deluxe snowblower model number 110415 (921032) and it only runs on half choke. It runs perfect on half choke but on full choke it sputters. It is only 2 years old. Any thoughts.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

At this time of the year it should not need full choke, not even half choke except for starting it....


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Clean the main jet?


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

Sorry I mean on opened choke is sputters.


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

cranman said:


> Clean the main jet?


How?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

mkdsk101 said:


> Sorry I mean on opened choke is sputters.


If you mean it runs well on mid throttle but sputters on full throttle, than I agree with cranman..... clean the main jet











You can also try putting "seafoam" in the fuel and running the engine for a half hour to see if it clears it (I don't know exactly what this seafoam product is, but I've read of a few members using it with success, maybe a member that know what it is may chime in with the name of it).


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

not familiar with Ariens but agree with members saying the main jet needs cleaning. can take bowl off the carb and use carb cleaner with that straw attachment on nozzle and stick it up the middle of the pick up tube. that is the main jet is, i believe.

give it some generous squirts. that usually works depending on gunk in carb. this is usually caused by old gas. you can also put about an ounce of seafoam in gas to help keep the carb clean.

if the first part doesn't work, you'll probably have to remove carb and do a more thorough cleaning. there are some good videos on you=tube showing this procedure.


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

Thank you everyone I will give it a try.


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## jim5554 (Mar 18, 2017)

+1 on the Seafoam. That stuff works miracles and can very often save you the aggravation of a rebuild or replacement. Try it before you do anything else. After you get it running right, run the tank dry and keep it that way until you're ready to use it. The ethanol laced gas is murder on small engine carbs.


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

jim5554 said:


> +1 on the Seafoam. That stuff works miracles and can very often save you the aggravation of a rebuild or replacement. Try it before you do anything else. After you get it running right, run the tank dry and keep it that way until you're ready to use it. The ethanol laced gas is murder on small engine carbs.


So just put the seafoam in and run it for a bit?


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

So I put the seafoam in and let it run for 30 minutes and there was no change at all.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

mkdsk101 said:


> so i put the seafoam in and let it run for 30 minutes and there was no change at all.


123


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

jtclays said:


> My experiences with it exactly. Waste of money in my opinion, but I know some people claim it fixed everything wrong with every motor they have. Physical cleaning and inspection is best, IMHO:wink2:
> Personally, I'd replace the fuel line and rinse the tank out. Waste of time to do a full carb removal and clean only to run the same crappy fuel lines (especially this time of year on a snowblower). The gas and heat degrade them very quickly. Ariens makes a very good product, but they don't make fuel lines or the carbs.


It is only two years old too...

Where is the cheapest place online to purchase a Carb repair kit. The part number is Ariens 20001185 Carburetor Repair Kit.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Unless you need gaskets or float and needle or lost bolts, there's really no reason to get a kit. They have brass jet/emulsion tube you can remove and spray with carb cleaner and run a bread tie wire through the orifices. Looks like they are all around $20
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...miq-abqe2o1qivlr2bch115wxeeayyasabegl1w_d_bwe


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

jtclays said:


> Unless you need gaskets or float and needle or lost bolts, there's really no reason to get a kit. They have brass jet/emulsion tube you can remove and spray with carb cleaner and run a bread tie wire through the orifices. Looks like they are all around $20
> https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...miq-abqe2o1qivlr2bch115wxeeayyasabegl1w_d_bwe


Okay, I will take the carb apart and clean it. Thanks for the info.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

jtclays said:


> My experiences with it exactly. Waste of money in my opinion,


That's fine..im sure it doesn't work in every single situation. but just because it didnt work one time, you cant then draw the conclusion that it doesn't work, ever. 



> but I know some people claim it fixed everything wrong with every motor they have.


No one has ever claimed that, ever. That's an exaggeration. Many people *have* claimed that it has worked for them, once or twice. I am one of those people. (more on my experience, below)



> Physical cleaning and inspection is best, IMHO:wink2:


Agreed..physical cleaning is often necessary *if* the seafoam doesn't loosen things up..which might or might not be the case here.

My experience with seafoam, details here:

https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page11.html#question4

it worked! it cleaned the carb, un-stuck the float, which then cured the gas leak. Im totally confidant that it was the seafoam that did it. So im sold on the product. But it obviously wont work in *every* single situation..it depends on what it wrong with the carb. It wont dissolve a physical piece of debris stuck inside the carb, for example. But it clearly can dissolve and clean "varnish" and other buildup from "bad gas"..But it depends on what is wrong with the carb.

IMO, you (mkdsk101) should give the seafoam more time. 30 minutes might not be long enough, In my experience the seafoam did *not* clear things up after the first application..it took two or three "runs" before the leak stopped.

if it isnt fixed after three tries, then its probably not going to work..next step, take the carb apart and clean it. While you are at it, also replace the fuel line.

I agree with JT, you dont need a "carb kit"..you only need a carb cleaning..
the carb parts are probably fine since the machine is so new, they dont need to be replaced, they only need to be cleaned.

Scot


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I defer to the Super Moderator's vast experience. He can guide you through the process. Good luck:wink2:


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## MassSnowblower (Oct 14, 2014)

SeaFoam is a waste of time and money in my opinion, doing small engine repair for over 20 years it has never worked for me. The main jet is clogged and needs to be cleaned as previously stated. How long did it sit with gas in it? Did you run it out when you shut it down when the season was finished? The combination of these Chinese non adjustable carbs and todays ethanol fuel is a disaster waiting to happen.


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

sscotsman said:


> That's fine..im sure it doesn't work in every single situation. but just because it didnt work one time, you cant then draw the conclusion that it doesn't work, ever.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So you are saying to put seafoam in again and again and again? Just a waste of money to do that. It is no cost to take the carb apart and clean it. Also, why replace the fuel line when I can clean that too.


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

MassSnowblower said:


> SeaFoam is a waste of time and money in my opinion, doing small engine repair for over 20 years it has never worked for me. The main jet is clogged and needs to be cleaned as previously stated. How long did it sit with gas in it? Did you run it out when you shut it down when the season was finished? The combination of these Chinese non adjustable carbs and todays ethanol fuel is a disaster waiting to happen.


I didn't run the gas out I actually start the snow blower every week during the summer and let it run a little.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

mkdsk101 said:


> So you are saying to put seafoam in again and again and again? Just a waste of money to do that.


I assume you already have remaining gas in the tank with a mix of gas and seafoam..if so, running it again is as simple as just firing up the machine again..

one bottle of seafoam should last years..and many tanks of gas.
how did you add the seafoam to the gas? and how much gas and seafoam did you use?



> It is no cost to take the carb apart and clean it.


yeah, thats probably the best solution at this point..I just thought since you already had seafoam in the gas, why not just run it a few more times in case it might still work..in which case you wouldn't have to take the carb apart at all. 



> Also, why replace the fuel line when I can clean that too.


because sometimes the source of a clogged carb is a deteriorating gas line..or a gas line where the tube walls are varnished with half-dried old gas, like a clogged artery, which breaks off little pieces and clogs the carb. its just a good procedure to replace the fuel line when cleaning a carb..the fuel line might, or might not, be the source of the problem, but replacing it is just cheap insurance, takes one variable out of the equation.

Scot


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

So I took the carb apart and cleaned it thoroughly and replaced it but it is still doing exactly the same thing. It sputters on open choke and I can't even turn the engine to low idle as it stalls. What else could be needed to do?


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner for 15 minutes with simple green....make sure all jets are cleaned with a torch tip cleaner.....put a half bottle of seafoam in the gas tank......


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Did you take the pilot jet out on top of the carb? It's under the relatively large black screw that stops the throttle lever. You remove that screw and it'll give you access to pry out the plastic pilot plug with a small screwdriver. It has one big hole horizontally and very tiny hole in the bottom vertically. Need to use a wire bristle from a wire wheel to run through that tiny hole. At 4:49 of this video you can see the screw I'm talking about (right under the fold of his finger) and under it, pressed into the body, is the pilot plug. He never addresses it in the video.


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

jtclays said:


> Did you take the pilot jet out on top of the carb? It's under the relatively large black screw that stops the throttle lever. You remove that screw and it'll give you access to pry out the plastic pilot plug with a small screwdriver. It has one big hole horizontally and very tiny hole in the bottom vertically. Need to use a wire bristle from a wire wheel to run through that tiny hole. At 4:49 of this video you can see the screw I'm talking about (right under the fold of his finger) and under it, pressed into the body, is the pilot plug. He never addresses it in the video.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExaDea_ExAQ


You are a genius. I tried everything else and I just tried this and it worked, I could never run the engine on low speed and when the choked was fully opened it sputtered and surged. Thank you so much.﻿ Wish this was the first thing that I did. . :surprise::surprise::smile_big:


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

jtclays said:


> Did you take the pilot jet out on top of the carb? It's under the relatively large black screw that stops the throttle lever. You remove that screw and it'll give you access to pry out the plastic pilot plug with a small screwdriver. It has one big hole horizontally and very tiny hole in the bottom vertically. Need to use a wire bristle from a wire wheel to run through that tiny hole. At 4:49 of this video you can see the screw I'm talking about (right under the fold of his finger) and under it, pressed into the body, is the pilot plug. He never addresses it in the video.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExaDea_ExAQ


Question for you. It kind of now sounds like it is revving too high. Which way do I turn that black screw so it revs a little lower?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Righty tighty runs it up, loosening it runs it down. Usually the screw has a smooth non threaded area on the end. That tip should protrude through the casting a bit, but the whole screw shouldn't be tightened into the casting.


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

jtclays said:


> Righty tighty runs it up, loosening it runs it down. Usually the screw has a smooth non threaded area on the end. That tip should protrude through the casting a bit, but the whole screw shouldn't be tightened into the casting.


Thank you


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## mkdsk101 (Jul 15, 2017)

jtclays said:


> Righty tighty runs it up, loosening it runs it down. Usually the screw has a smooth non threaded area on the end. That tip should protrude through the casting a bit, but the whole screw shouldn't be tightened into the casting.



Another question. When I go to turn the idle all the way up it doesn't go up at all. What could be wrong?


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## bennyxyz (Nov 20, 2017)

I had a similar problem. I'm not sure which of the following did the trick: Replaced spark plug, cleaned the carburetor especially as other stated, the main jet and main jet hole. It's now running properly.


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