# Honda HS928 Snowblower (replace drive and auger belts advice)



## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

Was just about to get started on replacing these belts on this snowblower and then discovered this forum. Was hoping to get some advice, tips or general cautions before I start to take it apart. Never worked on anything like this before so you can say I am a newbie for sure. Dont have a truck to get it to a Honda repair shop so I have no choice but to try it myself.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Take off the belt cover, and then there are 10 bolts (2 each top and bottom, and 3 on each side) that let you split the auger housing from the tractor. The auger belt has guides on the auger housing that must be loosened or removed to swap the belt. The drive belt can be swapped without having to split the machine. Use OEM belts because they're metric and using belts measured in OD inches is problematic.

You can look up the correct part numbers here with your full model and serial numbers: Honda Power Equipment - Parts Look Up - Official Site
Likely 22431-768-003 (SA-29) and 22432-V03-000 (SB-35)


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

tabora said:


> Take off the belt cover, and then there are 10 bolts (2 each top and bottom, and 3 on each side) that let you split the auger housing from the tractor. The auger belt has guides on the auger housing that must be loosened or removed to swap the belt. The drive belt can be swapped without having to split the machine.


Oh ok thanks... yes I had read in another post that I could split it into a V and get the new drive belt in without taking it all apart. Thats good to hear it can be done this way. The auger belt looks like it is still in decent shape so I will save the new belt until it goes or try to replace it in the summer. Just need to be able to throw some snow for the rest of the winter and get those tracks moving for now. Any suggestions on getting the new belt onto the pulleys easily?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

tabora said:


> Take off the belt cover, and then there are 10 bolts (2 each top and bottom, and 3 on each side) that let you split the auger housing from the tractor. The auger belt has guides on the auger housing that must be loosened or removed to swap the belt. The drive belt can be swapped without having to split the machine. Use OEM belts because they're metric and using belts measured in OD inches is problematic.


Can you leave the 2 bolts loose on the bottom like my Craftsman so the housing stays on?
I am lucky on mine I just take off the belt cover, nothing else to do except replace the belts.
Never worked on a Honda.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

FirstTimeFixin22 said:


> Oh ok thanks... yes I had read in another post that I could split it into a V and get the new drive belt in without taking it all apart. Thats good to hear it can be done this way. The auger belt looks like it is still in decent shape so I will save the new belt until it goes or try to replace it in the summer. Just need to be able to throw some snow for the rest of the winter and get those tracks moving for now. Any suggestions on getting the new belt onto the pulleys easily?


The drive belt I was referr


Big Ed said:


> Can you leave the 2 bolts loose on the bottom like my Craftsman so the housing stays on?
> I am lucky on mine I just take off the belt cover, nothing else to do except replace the belts.
> Never worked on a Honda.


Not sure yet... wont be doing the job until it warms up here this Sunday.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

Big Ed said:


> Can you leave the 2 bolts loose on the bottom like my Craftsman so the housing stays on?
> I am lucky on mine I just take off the belt cover, nothing else to do except replace the belts.
> Never worked on a Honda.


I was also trying to get a parts blow out on the Honda website but I'm not sure about what the difference is between the HS928 TA/A, TAS/A, WA/A and WAS/A is? The only number I can find on the snowblower is SZAS-1116919.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

FirstTimeFixin22 said:


> The drive belt I was referr
> 
> Not sure yet... wont be doing the job until it warms up here this Sunday.


Yes, welcome to the site, I was directing that question to tabora.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

FirstTimeFixin22 said:


> Oh ok thanks... yes I had read in another post that I could split it into a V and get the new drive belt in without taking it all apart. Thats good to hear it can be done this way. The auger belt looks like it is still in decent shape so I will save the new belt until it goes or try to replace it in the summer. Just need to be able to throw some snow for the rest of the winter and get those tracks moving for now. Any suggestions on getting the new belt onto the pulleys easily?


As long as you are doing them put both new ones on and save the old ones for spares?
If they are not worth saving I would get 2 more spares with a new set.
Your drive belt is bad?
But the Auger belt good?
Most of the time it is the other way around.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

Big Ed said:


> As long as you are doing them put both new ones on and save the old ones for spares?
> If they are not worth saving I would get 2 more spares with a new set.
> Your drive belt is bad?
> But the Auger belt good?
> Most of the time it is the other way around.


Yes the drive belt broke off a few weeks ago bit the auger belt is still in tact and only has a few signs of wear on it but no big chunks of belt missing or anything.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

FirstTimeFixin22 said:


> Oh ok thanks... yes I had read in another post that I could split it into a V and get the new drive belt in without taking it all apart. Thats good to hear it can be done this way. The auger belt looks like it is still in decent shape so I will save the new belt until it goes or try to replace it in the summer. Just need to be able to throw some snow for the rest of the winter and get those tracks moving for now. Any suggestions on getting the new belt onto the pulleys easily?


@tabora is right. if it's a HS928 then the drive belt is SA29. you do NOT have to split machine or V the housing to replace the drive belt only. just pry the top belt belt guide a little to pull the auger belt off top pulley and then work the drive belt off. You have to place the blower on nose and support it to work underneath and remove drive belt belt keeper or guide on bottom so you can remove the belt from bottom pulley.

then you can pull belt off from top. the first time doing this will take awhile. it usually takes me 10 minutes but have done it dozens of times.

the machine DOES need to be split for the auger belt. if , in the future you do this replace the impeller bearing as well. reference a you-tube video on this for the Honda HS55. same method. sorry , can not provide link to this but it is very good video for future.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

FirstTimeFixin22 said:


> I was also trying to get a parts blow out on the Honda website but I'm not sure about what the difference is between the HS928 TA/A, TAS/A, WA/A and WAS/A is? The only number I can find on the snowblower is SZAS-1116919.


Well, do you have tracks or wheels? Do you have an electric starter? For that serial number:
Tracks = HS928TA
Tracks+Starter = HS928TAS
Wheels = HS928WA
Wheels+Starter = HS928WAS


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Big Ed said:


> As long as you are doing them put both new ones on and save the old ones for spares?
> If they are not worth saving I would get 2 more spares with a new set.
> Your drive belt is bad?
> But the Auger belt good?
> Most of the time it is the other way around.


the only thing I can think of is the auger belt was replaced at some time. I almost replace both at the same time. i would also tell this owner to check how the drive belt runs on the pulleys. it may be rubbing on one end or the other of the idler wheel or prematurely wearing for some other reason?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

I agree with Big Ed, you may want to change both belts now and avoid a break down in the middle of winter with a 3 foot EOD pile to clear.
You might want to investigate why the belt broke, was it old and getting brittle, if so more reason to change both. Does the belt rub on something, is something seized or jammed?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Big Ed said:


> Can you leave the 2 bolts loose on the bottom like my Craftsman so the housing stays on?


You can, but if you're splitting it to do the auger belt, you should really do the impeller bearing at the same time, and probably the side auger bearings, too. They're a cheap common size that you can get anywhere.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

tabora said:


> You can, but if you're splitting it to do the auger belt, you should really do the impeller bearing at the same time, and probably the side auger bearings, too. They're a cheap common size that you can get anywhere.


thats what is great about a Honda. I always remove the augers/impeller first which only takes 5 minutes and then remove bucket. much lighter that way.

plus I can service the augers and inspect side bearing which in most cases only needs repacking. servicing the augers( for the OP) is removing the shear pin and pulling augers off so you can clean everything up and apply some anti-seize grease.

you can also install new shears , paint the augers/impeller , install flaps for an impeller kit , paint the inside of housing, apply some fluid film, etc.

if you're gonna do it , you may as well do it right or else you'll have to do it again some time in the near future anyway.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> @tabora is right. if it's a HS928 then the drive belt is SA29. you do NOT have to split machine or V the housing to replace the drive belt only. just pry the top belt belt guide a little to pull the auger belt off top pulley and then work the drive belt off. You have to place the blower on nose and support it to work underneath and remove drive belt belt keeper or guide on bottom so you can remove the belt from bottom pulley.
> 
> then you can pull belt off from top. the first time doing this will take awhile. it usually takes me 10 minutes but have done it dozens of times.
> 
> the machine DOES need to be split for the auger belt. if , in the future you do this replace the impeller bearing as well. reference a you-tube video on this for the Honda HS55. same method. sorry , can not provide link to this but it is very good video for future.


Ok thank you. So there is no way to put in the new drive belt without putting it on its nose then? I dont have an enclosed workspace or any way to really support the snowblower like that. I will be doing this in an open garage on a cement floor and very few tools.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

tabora said:


> Well, do you have tracks or wheels? Do you have an electric starter? For that serial number:
> Tracks = HS928TA
> Tracks+Starter = HS928TAS
> Wheels = HS928WA
> Wheels+Starter = HS928WAS


Thats exactly what I needed to know. It has tracks and an electric start so its the HS928TAS then. Thanks very much.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

Ziggy65 said:


> I agree with Big Ed, you may want to change both belts now and avoid a break down in the middle of winter with a 3 foot EOD pile to clear.
> You might want to investigate why the belt broke, was it old and getting brittle, if so more reason to change both. Does the belt rub on something, is something seized or jammed?


Looks like it was just old and brittle and had a lot of chunks missing on it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

FirstTimeFixin22 said:


> Ok thank you. So there is no way to put in the new drive belt without putting it on its nose then? I dont have an enclosed workspace or any way to really support the snowblower like that. I will be doing this in an open garage on a cement floor and very few tools.


well perhaps there is another way. you have to at least loosen the bottom belt giude for the drive belt to remove from bottom pulley. it's just easier forme anyway to put up on nose. i just lean the nose on a 4 by 4 for stability. make sure gas is off and that gas doesnt leak from cap. 

or you can ;lean back like this. and put a counterweight on bars.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> well perhaps there is another way. you have to at least loosen the bottom belt giude for the drive belt to remove from bottom pulley. it's just easier forme anyway to put up on nose. i just lean the nose on a 4 by 4 for stability. make sure gas is off and that gas doesnt leak from cap.
> 
> or you can ;lean back like this. and put a counterweight on bars.


Ah right on yes. I think I will lean it back like in the second picture and put a counter weight on the bars. Thanks so much for the idea.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

So I got the top taken off and the side guard. Just need to know if that belt stopper and the light mount come off next? I have included a picture of where I am at now.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

looks like the drive belt is awol?

no, that belt stopper does not need to removed. just pried away a little so you can pull off auger belt off on top.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> looks like the drive belt is awol?
> 
> no, that belt stopper does not need to removed. just pried away a little so you can pull off auger belt off on top.


Yes I had taken the broken drive belt out already when I took off the cover the first time. Just gonna focus on the drive belt replacement for now and do the auger belt if and when it goes later. The auger belt is much beefier than the skinny little drive belt and probably why its still in good shape. So I guess now I have to take the bots off holding the auger to split the machine and be able to get the drive belt into position? I'm just thinking now that the auger belt might have to come off anyway to get the drive belt past it onto the pulleys eh?


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

Ziggy65 said:


> I agree with Big Ed, you may want to change both belts now and avoid a break down in the middle of winter with a 3 foot EOD pile to clear.
> You might want to investigate why the belt broke, was it old and getting brittle, if so more reason to change both. Does the belt rub on something, is something seized or jammed?


Pretty sure the drive belt went because it is a really skinny and thin belt compared to the much bigger and beefier auger belt which is still in good shape.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

the machine does NOT have to be split to replace the drive belt. i thought i already mentioned that and explained how to do it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

reread post #10 and 19


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> reread post #10 and 19


You bet thank you. If you haven't figured it out already I'm not very mechanically knowledgeable so there will be more questions to come that might seem trivial to most on here but I really have very little experience in this realm. So in saying that, I had to take a pause in the repair process due to the cold and windy weather of the past few days. I will be giving it another go tomorrow but had a few more questions about putting the new drive belt on. First of all, after I get the belt guard on the bottom pulley off, it doesn't look like I can feed the new belt through the bottom without removing the auger belt from its top pulley? So does that mean I will have to remove the bolt on the shaft that goes into that top pulley to get the drive belt up and over onto its top pulley? Just don't want to start taking off more parts before I understand exactly how to get that new belt into place? I have included some more pictures from the bottom looking up and from both sides at the top.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

FirstTimeFixin22 said:


> So does that mean I will have to remove the bolt on the shaft that goes into that top pulley to get the drive belt up and over onto its top pulley?


No, just pry the auger belt off the top pulley as @orangputeh said in Post 10. Use a small pry bar or a large flat screwdriver. I put the new drive belt in from the top and get it onto the bottom (driven) pulley, put the guard back on, and then pry it while rotating the engine slowly with the pull starter (spark plug cable off) to get it on the top drive pulley. Then do the same with the auger belt onto its drive pulley.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

FirstTimeFixin22 said:


> You bet thank you. If you haven't figured it out already I'm not very mechanically knowledgeable so there will be more questions to come that might seem trivial to most on here but I really have very little experience in this realm. So in saying that, I had to take a pause in the repair process due to the cold and windy weather of the past few days. I will be giving it another go tomorrow but had a few more questions about putting the new drive belt on. First of all, after I get the belt guard on the bottom pulley off, it doesn't look like I can feed the new belt through the bottom without removing the auger belt from its top pulley? So does that mean I will have to remove the bolt on the shaft that goes into that top pulley to get the drive belt up and over onto its top pulley? Just don't want to start taking off more parts before I understand exactly how to get that new belt into place? I have included some more pictures from the bottom looking up and from both sides at the top.


i understand what you are saying. i wish there was a decent video somewhere. the only ones i could find has to do with splitting the machine but you do not have to do that just for the drive belt.

if you take that bottom belt keeper/guide off you should see some daylight from the bottom to top. after you place the belt on bottom pulley you should be able to push rest of belt thru this space to top of top pulleys. if you pried the top belt guide away enough to pull top of auger belt off of the top you can then feed the drive belt first to the first pulley wheel , then to the drive pulley wheel on top.

you can help feed the belt by pulling on starter cord slowly. ( make sure key is off or disconnect plug )

This is probably my own fault. It is difficult to try to explain writing the instructions. If I could do a video it would be so much easier.

This is why I suggested putting the machine up on it's nose. its easier to feed belt up from the bottom to top. the only part you have to remove is the belt cover of course and the bottom belt keeper/guide. 

after you have successfully replaced the belt then install the bottom keeper/guide back on and work the belt around by hand to make sure it looks good. I then start the engine and very SLOWLY pull the drive handle down to see belt action before I am satisfied enough to put belt cover back on. 

if you are still having a problem I will try posting some better pics.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

here is what me and @tabora is trying to say.
you can try from the top like tabora suggests if that is easier for you.

see the picture, i pried the top belt guide bar away to remove top of auger belt. it should come off very easily. the picture also shows how i am feeding the drive belt onto the first pulley and then pulling on starter cord very slowly you can then feed it onto the top drive pulley.

I usually put it on the bottom pulley first but it is so much easier to install the belt first on the top pulley and then feed the belt down to the bottom one. try it this way as tabora suggests. 

hope this picture helps. once you learn how to do this you will realize how easy it is. i understand that easier said than done. I think the first time I did it , it took me an hour or more. dont forget to reset that top guide bar.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> here is what me and @tabora is trying to say.
> you can try from the top like tabora suggests if that is easier for you.
> 
> see the picture, i pried the top belt guide bar away to remove top of auger belt. it should come off very easily. the picture also shows how i am feeding the drive belt onto the first pulley and then pulling on starter cord very slowly you can then feed it onto the top drive pulley.
> ...


That helps a great deal thank you! The most confusing part was trying to figure out how to get the drive belt up and over the auger belt but now I see that the top of the auger belt will have to come off to make this possible. I have propped the snowblower back on its handles and put some weight on them and will try getting the belt up from there. Gonna give this all a go tomorrow so I will post pics and comments tomorrow night to let you know how it went.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

tabora said:


> No, just pry the auger belt off the top pulley as @orangputeh said in Post 10. Use a small pry bar or a large flat screwdriver. I put the new drive belt in from the top and get it onto the bottom (driven) pulley, put the guard back on, and then pry it while rotating the engine slowly with the pull starter (spark plug cable off) to get it on the top drive pulley. Then do the same with the auger belt onto its drive pulley.


Awesome thanks, I think I have a good idea now on how to tackle this.


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## FirstTimeFixin22 (Nov 26, 2020)

orangputeh said:


> here is what me and @tabora is trying to say.
> you can try from the top like tabora suggests if that is easier for you.
> 
> see the picture, i pried the top belt guide bar away to remove top of auger belt. it should come off very easily. the picture also shows how i am feeding the drive belt onto the first pulley and then pulling on starter cord very slowly you can then feed it onto the top drive pulley.
> ...


Well it looks like I managed to get the drive belt on! Pretty dam happy! That picture you shared above was a great help too as well as the tip to pull on the starter cord slowly to get the belt onto the pulley! The only concern that I have now is that the drive belt does not sit in the middle of the idler wheel when it is engaged. It is lined up to the outer edge of the wheel. Is there an adjustment that I should make to this wheel or is that normal? I have included some pictures of what I am talking about.


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## Lobbyu (Oct 27, 2020)

tabora said:


> Take off the belt cover, and then there are 10 bolts (2 each top and bottom, and 3 on each side) that let you split the auger housing from the tractor. The auger belt has guides on the auger housing that must be loosened or removed to swap the belt. The drive belt can be swapped without having to split the machine. Use OEM belts because they're metric and using belts measured in OD inches is problematic.
> 
> You can look up the correct part numbers here with your full model and serial numbers: Honda Power Equipment - Parts Look Up - Official Site
> Likely 22431-768-003 (SA-29) and 22432-V03-000 (SB-35)


Needed to replace my worn drive belt on HS928t, so decided to replace both belts while I had it dismembered. Got it all installed and back together, but before I replaced the cover over the belt housing, I started it up, making sure the auger and drive belts engaged properly. I noticed that when engaging the auger, the belt isn't fully aligned with the flywheel. Seems off about quarter inch. This anything to be concerned with??


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Lobbyu said:


> Needed to replace my worn drive belt on HS928t, so decided to replace both belts while I had it dismembered. Got it all installed and back together, but before I replaced the cover over the belt housing, I started it up, making sure the auger and drive belts engaged properly. I noticed that when engaging the auger, the belt isn't fully aligned with the flywheel. Seems off about quarter inch. This anything to be concerned with??


Are you speaking of the bottom auger pulley wheel or the small idler wheel on top? Maybe a picture would help.


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## Lobbyu (Oct 27, 2020)

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orangputeh said:


> Are you speaking of the bottom auger pulley wheel or the small idler wheel on top? Maybe a picture would help.




I'll try to forward a picture. It's the small pulley in top, when it engages with the little


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## Lobbyu (Oct 27, 2020)

20220323_174233.mp4
Can you open this?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Lobbyu said:


> 20220323_174233.mp4
> Can you open this?


No, that's just a string of text. You need to post it to YouTube or one of the other listed servers and then to embed the video, click the ellipsis in the post toolbar, then select Media and paste the video URL. 

Approved sites: You may insert media from these sources

Apple Music 
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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Wish I could help more. Need picture. This is a very unusual in my experience. The clue may be that you removed the bucket and the lower auger pulley wheel is not seated all the way to impeller bearing. Did you remove this auger wheel when doing this? BTW I hope you replaced that impeller bearing with bucket off.

Do you smell any rubber when auger handle is engaged? 

Picture from top center would help explain what you are talking about.


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## Lobbyu (Oct 27, 2020)

Perhaps I'm a bit paranoid. The auger belt just seems to align awkwardly to the edge of the wheel. I don't smell rubber burning and it doesn't seem to rip in to the belt---yet. Yes, I replaced the bearings while I had it broken down. Thanks for your quick response.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Lobbyu said:


> View attachment 192291
> 
> Perhaps I'm a bit paranoid. The auger belt just seems to align awkwardly to the edge of the wheel. I don't smell rubber burning and it doesn't seem to rip in to the belt---yet. Yes, I replaced the bearings while I had it broken down. Thanks for your quick response.


NO.......you're right. That belt should run in the middle of that idler wheel. Either the bushings are worn in the tensioner or the tensioner arm is bent for some reason. I would just use a pry bar to try to bend the idler wheel arm back a little so the belt does not run on the edge.

Mind you this is not a Honda certified fix. Just what I would do. With engine off check the play on that tensioner arm. If real loose then the bushing is worn. If tight I would consider that good and try just bending arm back a little. 

as long as the belt doesnt grind on the edge you should be okay. if it has been doing this awhile you will see evidence on edge of belt.


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