# First Snowblower



## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

I just purchased my first snowblower(wife almost flipped), a Toro Power Clear 418 Toro Power Clear 418 18 in. Single-Stage Electric Start Gas Snow Blower-38282 at The Home Depot.

I know it's not the best and one of the cheapest ones, price wise, that is sold but it was all we could really afford at this point in time. I really want this to last as long as possible and I want to make sure I take care of it properly. A few questions on maintenance and how to use it properly. Any do's/don't would be very helpful.

1. Should I push it through the snow at a certain speed?
2. What should i do immediately after I finish using it and store it in my shed?

Thanks VERY much!!!


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## SweetD (Dec 6, 2013)

Congratulations on your first snowblower. I'm on my first one too this year and hence a new member to this forum. Bunch of good guys here it seems.

The one thing you can always fall back on apart from advice from others is to "read your owner's manual" - it will answer not only your two questions posed above, but many others. Make a habit of following the manufacturer's instructions, and you will rarely go wrong, at least in my humble experience.

That being said, this is as good a place as any to ask questions!

Good luck,

Dave


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

SweetD said:


> Congratulations on your first snowblower. I'm on my first one too this year and hence a new member to this forum. Bunch of good guys here it seems.
> 
> The one thing you can always fall back on apart from advice from others is to "read your owner's manual" - it will answer not only your two questions posed above, but many others. Make a habit of following the manufacturer's instructions, and you will rarely go wrong, at least in my humble experience.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave, will do.


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## SlowRider22 (Oct 17, 2013)

I can't really say for sure on how fast to push the blower since I've never actually used a single stage blower. I'm sure it falls into the realm of however fast you want to push it as long as it's able to keep throwing the snow without being overloaded.

As far as storage: If it's in-season then pretty much just brush off any snow that's on the machine and use some gas that has been treated with stabilizer. That way if it's a long time between snow storms, the gas inside won't get all funky and gum up the carburetor.
For off-season storage, there are a few threads on the site that talk about that topic quite extensively. Do a quick search and you'll be sure to find what you need


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## JerryD (Jan 19, 2014)

I was taught by my Father and it hasn't let me down....When you are done with the snowblower for the day, shut it down, brush off all the snow, start the snowblower and let it run at idle for about five minutes to allow the excess snow to melt out of all the cracks.


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## fronos4 (Jan 29, 2011)

+1 on SweetD's reply, the owners manual is your fall back for basic operation and maintenance. Congrats on your 1st snow blower, I have the same model purchased a couple years ago to supplement my 2 stage. As far as pushing it into the snow, there is no need for most snow conditions. Most SS blowers are auger propelled, lifting up slightly will allow the auger to touch the pavement propelling the machine forward. With the 418, lift the handle slightly until the rear wheels are about an inch off the ground and it'll start moving forward. You'll know if your too high when snow starts being thrown back underneath the machine towards your feet. The only time you really need to push is for deeper piles or EOD stuff. I'm sure you'll find the 418 pretty capable for its size, it's krypton is super wet heavy slushy snow where it's pretty useless but that stuff is a challenge for any machine. 

During the snow season, when done, just brush the excess snow and run the auger for a few seconds to clear out any residual. 

If you haven't already, put a string on that key and loop it on the handle you don't want to lose that in the snow especially at night. 

You may know this as well, the two ways to shut the engine off according to the manual is pulling the key out slightly or moving the choke lever to full choke. I prefer the latter rather than messing around with the key.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

Welcome to the site!

Not be be a downer, but for the price I would have looked at the Ariens Path-Pro 136. A bit wider and a larger motor. I believe the 136cc model is $399. -HOME DEPOT- carries it.

As far as your questions:

1. Pay attention to the engine feedback. The engine will let you know if you are going too fast for the amount of snow you're trying to blow. If it sounds like the engine is being overloaded, then you're probably going too fast for the amount/type of snow you have. The speed you go is all going to depend on how much snow you have and the density of the snow. The lighter stuff is much easier to blow than the wet/heavy stuff.

2. After I use it I let it run while I turn the fuel off in order to drain the carb of gas. While it's running I just brush off the outside and try to get it cleaned up the best I can so when/if it warms up and then freezes again you won't have issues with parts being froze.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

SlowRider22 said:


> I can't really say for sure on how fast to push the blower since I've never actually used a single stage blower. I'm sure it falls into the realm of however fast you want to push it as long as it's able to keep throwing the snow without being overloaded.
> 
> As far as storage: If it's in-season then pretty much just brush off any snow that's on the machine and use some gas that has been treated with stabilizer. That way if it's a long time between snow storms, the gas inside won't get all funky and gum up the carburetor.
> For off-season storage, there are a few threads on the site that talk about that topic quite extensively. Do a quick search and you'll be sure to find what you need


Thanks


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

fronos4 said:


> +1 on SweetD's reply, the owners manual is your fall back for basic operation and maintenance. Congrats on your 1st snow blower, I have the same model purchased a couple years ago to supplement my 2 stage. As far as pushing it into the snow, there is no need for most snow conditions. Most SS blowers are auger propelled, lifting up slightly will allow the auger to touch the pavement propelling the machine forward. With the 418, lift the handle slightly until the rear wheels are about an inch off the ground and it'll start moving forward. You'll know if your too high when snow starts being thrown back underneath the machine towards your feet. The only time you really need to push is for deeper piles or EOD stuff. I'm sure you'll find the 418 pretty capable for its size, it's krypton is super wet heavy slushy snow where it's pretty useless but that stuff is a challenge for any machine.
> 
> During the snow season, when done, just brush the excess snow and run the auger for a few seconds to clear out any residual.
> 
> ...


Fronos....much appreciated


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

JerryD said:


> I was taught by my Father and it hasn't let me down....When you are done with the snowblower for the day, shut it down, brush off all the snow, start the snowblower and let it run at idle for about five minutes to allow the excess snow to melt out of all the cracks.


Thanks


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

JRHAWK9 said:


> Welcome to the site!
> 
> Not be be a downer, but for the price I would have looked at the Ariens Path-Pro 136. A bit wider and a larger motor. I believe the 136cc model is $399. -HOME DEPOT- carries it.
> 
> ...



Thanks JR...maybe I'll return it...if I can. Oh god here I go...I'm searching to see if the Arien is in stock at a HD..by me..


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

mstrlucky74 said:


> Thanks JR...maybe I'll return it...if I can. Oh god here I go...I'm searching to see if the Arien is in stock at a HD..by me..


Actually, I would keep the Toro.
Toro's are generally considered the best quality for single-stage snowblowers..

The more important question is: Is this Toro big enough for your needs? where do you live? (just a city and state is fine)..The quantity and quality of your winter snowfalls is the most important factor in choosing a snowblower..

But as for the choice between the Toro or the Ariens single-stage, I would stick with the Toro.
(all things being equal)..But it is an important question if this Toro is large enough and powerful enough for your needs.

Home Depot (and all dealers for that matter) do carry snowblowers that can be useless for the area
where the store exists..they sell them, because people will buy them.

Scot


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Congrats*

Congrats on the blower and welcome to the forum


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

sscotsman said:


> Actually, I would keep the Toro.
> Toro's are generally considered the best quality for single-stage snowblowers..
> 
> The more important question is: Is this Toro big enough for your needs? where do you live? (just a city and state is fine)..The quantity and quality of your winter snowfalls is the most important factor in choosing a snowblower..
> ...


Thanks SS. I must say we got about a foot + yesterday and it actually handled it great. Both the wet and lighter stuff


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## ken53 (Nov 7, 2013)

mstrlucky74 said:


> I just purchased my first snowblower(wife almost flipped), a Toro Power Clear 418 Toro Power Clear 418 18 in. Single-Stage Electric Start Gas Snow Blower-38282 at The Home Depot.


If wives question our snow blower purchases, We need to hand them the shovel and say: 

_"try this for a bit, and then let me know when we put the blower for sale." _

Welcome to the best snow blower forum on net.

Ken


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

sscotsman said:


> Actually, I would keep the Toro.
> Toro's are generally considered the best quality for single-stage snowblowers..
> 
> The more important question is: Is this Toro big enough for your needs? where do you live? (just a city and state is fine)..The quantity and quality of your winter snowfalls is the most important factor in choosing a snowblower..
> ...



No doubt Toro makes a good SS, although having the only horse in the race (up until this year) makes winning not mean a whole lot 

I was just letting him know there were other choices within the same price range ($399) and the Path-Pro provides, IMO, more bang for the buck (136cc vs 87cc and 22" vs 18"). I didn't expect him to blindly return it w/o first doing his own research on what would work best for him. Heck, for all know he has some very narrow pathways and anything wider than 18" won't work. For me, a 56% larger engine on a proven brand name for the same price would be hard to turn down. 

Having said that, if the Toro is working good for what he needs it for then he should keep it.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

ken53 said:


> If wives question our snow blower purchases, We need to hand them the shovel and say:
> 
> _"try this for a bit, and then let me know when we put the blower for sale." _
> 
> ...


Better yet, don't get married then they have no say in what you spend your money on


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

ken53 said:


> If wives question our snow blower purchases, We need to hand them the shovel and say:
> 
> _"try this for a bit, and then let me know when we put the blower for sale." _
> 
> ...


 
Indeed


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

JRHAWK9 said:


> No doubt Toro makes a good SS, although having the only horse in the race (up until this year) makes winning not mean a whole lot
> 
> I was just letting him know there were other choices within the same price range ($399) and the Path-Pro provides, IMO, more bang for the buck (136cc vs 87cc and 22" vs 18"). I didn't expect him to blindly return it w/o first doing his own research on what would work best for him. Heck, for all know he has some very narrow pathways and anything wider than 18" won't work. For me, a 56% larger engine on a proven brand name for the same price would be hard to turn down.
> 
> Having said that, if the Toro is working good for what he needs it for then he should keep it.


 
JR thanks. I did not return it but that is funny you bring up the narrow pathways. I was thinking that when I saw the other had 22". The 18" is very helpfult for getting between the car and house....just enough room.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

mstrlucky74 said:


> JR thanks. I did not return it but that is funny you bring up the narrow pathways. I was thinking that when I saw the other had 22". The 18" is very helpfult for getting between the car and house....just enough room.


Good deal! Sounds like you made the correct choice then


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## woodtick007 (Apr 9, 2011)

You bought a great machine manufactured by a great company. . . Toro is the leader in single stage snowthrowers... With proper care it will bring you many many years of excellent service.....and being a Toro, when you go to sell it....people will look for the Toro name.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jan 22, 2014)

woodtick007 said:


> You bought a great machine manufactured by a great company. . . Toro is the leader in single stage snowthrowers... With proper care it will bring you many many years of excellent service.....and being a Toro, when you go to sell it....people will look for the Toro name.


Thanks..I'm now hoping for more snow......I love it.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

JRHAWK9 said:


> No doubt Toro makes a good SS, although having the only horse in the race (up until this year) makes winning not mean a whole lot
> 
> 
> 
> Having said that, if the Toro is working good for what he needs it for then he should keep it.


Not sure what you mean by having the only horse in the race. Simplicity, Craftsman, Ariens, and MTD have have been producing ss blowers for years. I'm sure there are probably others as well.


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

mstrlucky74 said:


> Thanks..I'm now hoping for more snow......I love it.


Remember to check your oil level each and every time before you use it. Someone here on the forum had a toro 418 engine blow and it was only 2 years oil so check the oil level before using it. Low oil or no oil is the number one reason for engine failure in a small engine. Synthetic oils may cost more but they offer better protection than do standard non synthetic oils in low oil events and tend to out last non synthetic too. I use Amsoil in all my engines. Here is some information on independant oil tests
*Four-Ball Wear Test (ASTM D 4172 Mod.)* According to the ASTM, the Four-Ball Wear Test “can be used to determine the relative wear preventive properties of lubricating fluids in sliding contact under the prescribed test conditions. No attempt has been made to correlate this test with balls in rolling contact. The user of this test method should determine to his own satisfaction whether results of this test procedure correlate with field performance or other bench test machines.” *1* Although not widely used as an engine oil test, the Four-Ball Wear Test provides a means of comparing relative wear-protection properties of lubricating oils. To better differentiate between lubricants, the severity of the test was increased with higher rpm and temperature (the test standard allows for running the test under modified parameters). The size of the scar as a result of the test indicates the level of wear protection the lubricant provides.
*Four-Ball Wear Test (ASTM D 4172 Mod.) *
1,800 rpm, 150ºC, 40 kg. 1 hour
Performed by independent, third-party lab February 2013.
*The smaller the wear scar, the better the performance in the test.*







*Results* Four-Ball Wear Test results indicate significant differences in relative wear protection between oils. The top four performers limited wear scars to under 0.40 mm. AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil demonstrated the best wear protection in the Four-Ball Wear Test. 
*1* ASTM D4172 - 94(2010) Standard Test Method for Wear Preventive Characteristics of Lubricating Fluid (Four Ball Method) *Total Base Number (ASTM D 2896)* Total Base Number (TBN) is the measure of a lubricant’s reserve alkalinity, which aids in the control of acids formed during the combustion process. TBN can also be used as a measure of lubricant degradation in service.
*1* Motor oils that have a high TBN and demonstrate good TBN retention are known to effectively reduce the corrosive effects of acids over an extended period.

*Total Base Number (ASTM D 2896)*
Performed by independent, third-party lab February 2013.

*The higher the number, the better the performance in the test.*








*Results* AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil tested two numbers higher than the nearest competitor. 
*1* ASTM D2896 - 11 Standard Test Method for Base Number of Petroleum Products by Potentiometric Perchloric Acid Titration 
*Cold Cranking Viscosity (ASTM D 5293)* The Cold Crank Simulator Test determines the apparent viscosity of lubricants at low temperatures and high shear rates. Viscosity of lubricants under these conditions is directly related to low-temperature engine cranking.
*1 *The test was performed at -30ºC (-22ºF). Results are reported in centipoise (cP), with lower values reflecting easier cold starts and reduced battery strain. To meet the API SN and ILSAC GF-5 motor oil specifications, a motor oil’s cold crank viscosity must not exceed 6,600 cP.

*Cold Crank Viscosity (ASTM D 5293)*
cP @ -30ºC (-22ºF) 
Performed by independent, third-party lab February 2013.

*The lower the value, the better the performance in the test.*








*Results* Although synthetic motor oils are known to provide increased low-temperature performance compared to conventional oils, results suggest performance differences between formulations. AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil demonstrated the lowest cold-crank viscosity (3,727 cP).

*1 *ASTM D5293 - 10e1 Standard Test Method for Apparent Viscosity of Engine Oils and Base Stocks Between â€“5 and â€“35°C Using Cold Cranking Simulator *Thermo-Oxidation Engine Oil Simulation Test (TEOST, ASTM D 6335)* Motor oils can form deposits when exposed to increased heat, reducing efficiency and contributing to poor overall performance. According to the ASTM, the TEOST test method “is designed to predict the high temperature deposit forming tendencies of an engine oil. This test method can be used to screen oil samples or as a quality assurance tool.” 
*1 *Given the number of vehicles now equipped with direct fuel injection, turbochargers and other performance-enhancing technologies that increase heat, deposit control has taken on increased importance. To meet the API SN Resource Conserving and ILSAC GF-5 motor oil specifications, a 5W-30 motor oil must limit total deposit formation to 30 mg or less.

*TEOST Test (ASTM D 6335)*
Performed by independent, third-party lab February 2013.

*The lower the value, the better the performance in the test.*








*Results* Results demonstrate a range of performance differences between oils. Only Castrol Edge with Titanium Fluid Strength Technology and AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil limited total deposit weight to 5 mg or less.

*1* ASTM D6335 - 09 Standard Test Method for Determination of High Temperature Deposits by Thermo Oxidation Engine Oil Simulation Test *NOACK Volatility Test (ASTM D 5800)* The NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service. According to the ASTM, “Evaporation may contribute to oil consumption in an engine and can lead to a change in the properties of an oil.”
*1* As with the TEOST test, low values in the NOACK Volatility Test are of particular benefit in modern, hot-running engines.
In the NOACK test, a candidate oil is exposed to heat and circulating air. Following 60 minutes, the remaining oil volume is weighed and compared to the original weight, with the difference reported as the percentage of weight lost. Results must be limited to 15 percent or less to meet the API SN and ILSAC GF-5 specifications.

*NOACK Test (ASTM D 5800)*
Performed by independent, third-party lab February 2013.

*The lower the value, the better the performance in the test.*








*Results* While all oils were below the API SN and ILSAC GF-5 upper limit, results indicate differences in high- temperature volatility. Half of the oils limited the percentage weight lost from volatility to under 10 percent, with AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil having the third-best result.

*1* ASTM D5800 - 10 Standard Test Method for Evaporation Loss of Lubricating Oils by the Noack Method *Overall Annual Cost* Although AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for 25,000 miles/one year in normal service *1*, light-duty vehicles accumulate an average of 11,318 miles a year *2* and are generally used in driving conditions that fall under the severe service *3* category. For those reasons, overall annual cost is evaluated at 11,318 miles under severe service driving conditions. Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil carries a drain in-terval of up to 15,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in severe service. Because the other nine oils do not carry a recommended drain interval, a drain interval of 4,777 miles was used, which represents the aver-age drain interval of motorists as reported in the 2012 National Oil & Lube News Operator’s Survey. Although Mobil 1 Extended Performance is recommended for 15,000 miles in out-of-warranty vehicles in certain driving conditions, its extended drain recommendation does not apply for this evaluation. According to the official statement on the Mobil 1 Extended Performance label, “Extended service is not recommended in severe service applications involving racing and commercial use, frequent towing or hauling, extremely dusty or dirty conditions, or excessive idling.”
Per-quart prices (Table 2) reflect the MSRP where available or average of a cross-section of retail outlets surveyed January 2013. Costs are based on a five-quart capacity. Overall value represents the cost of the oil only.









*1* AMSOIL defines normal service as personal vehicles frequently traveling greater than 10 miles at a time and not operating under severe service.
*2* “Average Vehicle Distance Traveled in Miles and Related Data – 2011 (1) By Highway Category and Vehicle Type”. http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/policyinformation/statistics/2011/pdf/vm1.pdf.
*3* AMSOIL defines gasoline engine severe service as turbo/supercharged engines; commercial or fleet vehicles; excessive idling; daily short-trip driving less than 10 miles (16km); frequent towing, plowing or hauling; dusty-driving conditions; or in vehicles with 100,000 or more miles that will be using AMSOIL engine oil for the first time.
*Annual Cost Per 11,318 Miles in Severe-Service Conditions*
Five-quart capacity. Cost of oil only. Based on MSRP where available or a 
cross-section of retail outlets surveyed January 2013.







* Not recommend for extended service in vehicles used in severe-service driving conditions. See official statement on the Mobil 1 Extended-Performance label. 
*Results* Though the retail price per quart of AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is initially higher, it provides lower costs compared to the other oils. Overall, Signature Series is the most cost-effective oil. 
*Conclusions* AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil *ranked first in four of the six comparisons. In contrast, while some oils performed well in a few areas, they did not perform as well in others. Different results from one test to another indicate an emphasis in one area of performance does not correspond to increased performance in other areas of testing.* It also reveals the difficulty inherent in formulating a high-quality motor oil that performs well in tests designed to assess optimum engine protection and life.
As engines continue to evolve and demand more from motor oil, the need for premium lubrication becomes more critical. Industry-standard testing performed by an independent, third-party laboratory reveals AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil to be the overall top-performing oil in these tests. When considering the savings of time and money available due to its 15,000-mile/one-year drain interval in severe service, Signature Series is also the most economical choice.


*AMSOIL - "Our Company makes the Best Lubricants in the world, period, and challenges anyone or any company to prove us wrong! That won't happen because our competitors know it's true."....... A. J. Amatuzio, President and CEO.*

*API Motor Oil Comparison Testing
*

*AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil (ATM) and 10 competing conventional and synthetic
10W-30 motor oils were subjected to a series of API motor oil tests.*
​ *Feb 12, 2005: *Amsoil has for decades paid independent labs to performance test their lubricants and those of the competition. Amsoil does not provide any oils for testing. The labs buy all the oils off the store shelves, runs the tests and delivers the results.
*The competing oils included;*​ *Petroleum-based*​ *Synthetic-based*​ *Castrol GTX Drive Hard* *Valvoline Synpower* *Mobil Drive Clean* *Quaker State* *Pennzoil with Purebase* *Castrol Syntec* *Quaker State Peak Performance* *Pennzoil* *V**alvoline* *Mobil 1 SuperSyn*​ Seven API tests were run on the motor oils.


The Thin-Film Oxygen Uptake Test (TFOUT) measures the oxidation stability of engine oils. 
The High Temperature/High Shear Test (HTHS) measures a lubricant's viscosity under severe operating conditions. 
The NOACK Volatility Test measures the evaporation loss of oils in high temperature service. 
Pour Point indicates the lowest temperature at which a fluid will flow. 
Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricant's reserve alkalinity for combating acids. 
The Cold Cranking Simulator Test (CCS) measures a lubricant's viscosity at low temperatures and high shear rates. 
The Four-Ball Wear Test measures a lubricant's wear protection properties.
 ​ *Thin-Film Oxygen Uptake (ASTM D-4742)**
* The Thin-Film Oxygen Uptake Test evaluates the oxidation stability of lubricating oils. A mixture of the test oil and chemistries found in gasoline engine operation (oxidized/nitrated fuel, soluble metals and distilled water) are placed in a test vessel, which is pressurized with oxygen and placed in a heated bath. Anti-oxidant breakdown is evident when the oxygen pressure in the vessel rapidly decreases. At this point, the induction time (break point) of the oil is recorded. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil had the highest induction time of all the tested oils. In fact, it didn't reach its break point in over 500 minutes of testing.









The superior oxidation stability of AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil allows it to effectively resist the formation of engine deposits and sludge, keeping engines running clean and efficient and extending oil life. It also resists thickening, maintaining its superior wear protection and lubricating properties and maximizing fuel efficiency.​​


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## Cavalier (Jan 6, 2014)

ken53 said:


> If wives question our snow blower purchases, We need to hand them the shovel and say:
> 
> _"try this for a bit, and then let me know when we put the blower for sale." _
> 
> ...


 Absolutely!

Plus, when I'm 60+, I'll be glad I bought it when I was 40. 

Saves your back!


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

micah68kj said:


> Not sure what you mean by having the only horse in the race. Simplicity, Craftsman, Ariens, and MTD have have been producing ss blowers for years. I'm sure there are probably others as well.


I believe most quit making them awhile back. Probably due to EPA standards changing. I know Ariens did anyway. They just got back in the game this year with the Path-Pro.


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