# Impeller seized to shaft - Need to remove it to replace bearing



## Jibbers (Jan 5, 2017)

Good day to all,

The bearing between the drive pulley and impeller is completely gone, so I pulled the auger body off the chassis and removed the auguers and auger transmission.

However, the crossbolt in the impeller/auger drive shaft closest to the impeller is totally rusted in there. I can't get the impeller off the shaft which means I can't get to the bearing. The bearing is basically sandwiched between the drive pulley and impeller.

Does anyone have experience with this situation before I resort to drastic drilling/grinding/cutting?

Thanks in advance.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

drill it out. the shaft is solid, and there aren't any threads in the shaft hole (the visible threads are for the nut). start with a small drill bit to make a pilot hole, then work up from there. the metal has fused, so i don't think penetrating fluids will help any. torch heat might.


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Replacing the impeller bearing is normally accomplished by removing the auger pulley and then the bearing. Have you tried that?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Jibbers said:


> Good day to all,
> 
> The bearing between the drive pulley and impeller is completely gone, so I pulled the auger body off the chassis and removed the auguers and auger transmission.
> 
> ...


I have dealt with this many times on other people's Honda's. You are going to need a little patience. I lean the machine back on handlebars ( use a weight on bars to give it support ) , spray a bunch of pentrating oil down the impeller shaft and in both holes for the pin and LET IT SIT.

then remove the chute and use a long punch to punch out pin. Sometimes the end of pin may be pancaked so try both side. EVENTUALLY it will come out.

Sometimes you have to repeat the whole penetrating oil letting it sit a couple times. 

The impeller may also be stuck. That is why I said spray a bunch of oil down the shaft.

It will come in time. Trust me. Have done dozens.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

cpchriste said:


> Replacing the impeller bearing is normally accomplished by removing the auger pulley and then the bearing. Have you tried that?


Which exact model do you have? Does your machine have the stub shaft on the impeller pulley or the pulley that is held onto the shaft by a bolt?
If the latter:

1. Remove belt cover and disconnect chute control arm.
2. Split auger housing from the tractor (10 bolts - 2 on top, 2 on bottom, 3 on each side).
3. Remove the driven impeller pulley.
4. Remove the bearing holder (3 bolts) and the bearing.

If the former, yes, you're going to need to get the rest of that broken bolt out and probably use heat to get the pulley free from the impeller.


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

rwh963 said:


> drill it out. the shaft is solid, and there aren't any threads in the shaft hole (the visible threads are for the nut). start with a small drill bit to make a pilot hole, then work up from there. the metal has fused, so i don't think penetrating fluids will help any. torch heat might.


As others have said above who have done more of these than my one—penetrating oil _does_ work. But it is like cooking brisket...you must be patient. If you do opt to drill out, try to use a left handed drill bit. Sometimes they do the job before you pull out the dreaded screw extractors.


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## Jibbers (Jan 5, 2017)

thanks to all for confirming the worst hahah. It's an HS928. The drive pulley cannot be removed independently to access the bearing holder. I shall penetrate, drill, and otherwise plow this thing out.

I tell you....if it weren't for the excellent engine.... I just got done doing the right side transmission and the rust hole are starting to pile up. But if I can sink $200 (the tranny fix + this most current fix), I may as well keep it around. My buddy is Cuban and I've spend a lot of time in his hometown during the years. I've come to appreciate how you can keep things running with some elbow grease and stubbornness. Rather than just toss it in the garbage.

Have a good one.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Jibbers said:


> thanks to all for confirming the worst hahah. It's an HS928. The drive pulley cannot be removed independently to access the bearing holder. I shall penetrate, drill, and otherwise plow this thing out.
> 
> I tell you....if it weren't for the excellent engine.... I just got done doing the right side transmission and the rust hole are starting to pile up. But if I can sink $200 (the tranny fix + this most current fix), I may as well keep it around. My buddy is Cuban and I've spend a lot of time in his hometown during the years. I've come to appreciate how you can keep things running with some elbow grease and stubbornness. Rather than just toss it in the garbage.
> 
> Have a good one.


ha, was just talking about this the other day. Love Cuba and the old cars they keep going.When I lived in South East Asia back in the 70's most of the taxis had over a million miles on them.

U.S. Americans are spoiled brats.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

I suspect that the belt driving the auger is worn (as in shot) if the bearing was rusted away. You might cut that off, and then you will be able to remove the auger housing from the engine/transmission frame. At least that belt was preventing me from removing the auger housing until i separated the bearing/pulley from the housing on my 828. In the end I should have cut the belt, it was worn away in one spot that was not visible.


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

if you can get in there.. put a nut on the exposed bolt thread.. and weld it.. as much heat as you can use and still be able to put a socket ober the welded nut afterwards.. soak it in penetrating oil after welding .. just cooled enough to not smoke whatever penetrating oil you like... let it soak a few minutes... give it a try.. if your lucky.. the heat from the welding should be localised enough to break some of the rust free.. this technique has saved my bacon a couple times.. usually requiring a few spare nuts and just enough cooling.. carefull not to weld it all togetherlol thats happenned once to me before too  best of luck.. if you dont have access to a small wire feed welder.. then my long winded option probably wont do you any good... at least i hope it does help


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