# Tec engine, no power under load



## sentinal02

Hi guys,
I'm trying to figure out what's up with this snowblower (Husky Snowking) I just got from a friend of mine. I used it a few years back and it was a totally different machine back then. it's a 2 stage 5 hp Tecumseh LH195SA, spec 67419V. the thing has no power under load anymore. runs just fine without a load, starts on the second pull, no misses or backfires. i thought it was the governor, but after inspecting it and adjusting it to spec according to the engine manual the gov seems to be functioning just fine. as soon as the engine starts to slow down i can watch the gov arm push the throttle plate wide open. the engine just doesn't respond to the wide open throttle. instead it just continues to die out until you remove the load when it then throttles back up. put it under load again and you get the same thing. i checked the compression and it's reading about 90 psi, which sounds about right to me, though i haven't found a spec anywhere to confirm this. i've cleaned the carb multiple times but it still does it. I replaced the belts on both the auger and the drive wheels and adjusted the cables to make sure it's engaging both properly. it has no trouble driving the machine forward (or backward for that matter) but i can't really tell if the augers are turning as fast as they used to. when the machine is throwing it seems to throw the snow just fine. I'm wondering if the worm gear in the forward gear box is worn and it's just choking on snow because it can't clear the chute fast enough, but i tried to test that theory by putting the machine against a wall with the auger disengaged and put it in gear and really tried to bear down on the wheel to see if the load from the drive system could bog the motor down. even with me bearing down on the handles the wheels just kept spinning and i couldn't get the motor bog. if i spin the auger drive pulley by hand the tines move as expected. trying to spin the tines themselves by hand I can't do it so i don't think the worm gear is sheared. 

this thing used to clear 20+ inches of packing snow (albeit in 1st gear but it cleared it without any problems) and now it struggles to throw 6 inches of fine power. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a whole new carb in hopes that there's a passage in there that I just can't get clear but I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. any help would be appreciated.


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## Shryp

I was going to say clean the carb, but apparently you already did. I have heard that the valves wear often on those and need checked, but I have not done any.


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## BOSMECH

Yes try lapping the valves and see if that helps.


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## CarlB

I just fixed a tech hssk50 for my neighbor. It started fine but died under a load. The carb was fine and the engine was getting plenty of fuel and the governor was working properly just like your engine. What i found when i took the breather cover off was that there was no clearance on exhaust valve. I pulled the exhaust valve and ground the stem down a little at a time to get the required clearance about .009". Put on a new head gasket and put it back together. Last snow was only 8" but it ran like a new machine, no bogging at all went right through the snow. 

What first lead me to believe there was a problem with the exhaust valve not closing completely was when you pulled the starting cord over slowly there was very little resistance when going over TDC. 
Carl


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## sentinal02

CarlB said:


> I just fixed a tech hssk50 for my neighbor. It started fine but died under a load. The carb was fine and the engine was getting plenty of fuel and the governor was working properly just like your engine. What i found when i took the breather cover off was that there was no clearance on exhaust valve. I pulled the exhaust valve and ground the stem down a little at a time to get the required clearance about .009". Put on a new head gasket and put it back together. Last snow was only 8" but it ran like a new machine, no bogging at all went right through the snow.
> 
> What first lead me to believe there was a problem with the exhaust valve not closing completely was when you pulled the starting cord over slowly there was very little resistance when going over TDC.
> Carl


there definitely seems like there's resistance in the cord, but I'll check the clearances anyway and go from there. anybody have the spec for the compression? the 90 psi I'm reading seems like it might be a little low, but I'm used to working on car engines so 120+ is more the norm. i went ahead and ordered a new carb for it since a couple of the local shops around here agreed that it seems like it's a fuel delivery problem, hopefully it'll be here friday for the next storm. in the mean time I'll see if i can find a head gasket for it and have a look at the valve seats. thanks guys, keep the ideas coming!

Nick


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## Shryp

Compression is hard to measure because the engines have a compression release that opens the exhaust valve slightly during starting. I am actually surprised you managed to get to 90.


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## HDNewf

Hey Sentinal02.
I find it hard to believe that this is anything but an engine going lean under load. Compression is good and no backfires or rough running means valves are working as they should. Before you install the new carb, check the float bowl bolt. It serves as the main jet and is easily clogged.







A varnish build-up or partial clog will allow full speed operation with no load, but not when the throttle plate opens up. I use a twist tie stripped of its paper to snake out the holes and spray carb cleaner through them.
I hope this helps,
HDNewf


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## sentinal02

thanks HD, but I've had the jet out at least 6 or 7 times, soaked it in kerosene overnight, wire brushed it on the outside and ran a #71 drill bit down the main jet hole and cleaned it about as well as you could possibly imagine. it was the first thing i did since I've had trouble with carbs like it in the past. i did make some progress on this. I found that the fuel line off the tank had a soft spot in it that was kinking. replacing the line seems to have helped, though I don't think it's 100% yet. it does seem to me that it indicates that this is a fuel issue. I'm hoping that it's just a clogged idle passage somewhere that i can't reach with the wire and that it's just enough to cause the engine to starve for fuel at full load. I can't find any fuel filter in the tank and I seem to be getting good flow out the main line to the carb inlet so i think that's taken care of at this point. wish i had thought of that sooner. the new carb should be here today or tomorrow, so I'll keep you guys posted. thanks!


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## sea salt

did you try running with the gas cap off of the tank?


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## sentinal02

well guys, it's a new year but it's the same old problem with this machine. it seems to get a little worse year after year. the last storm we had that dumped about 5 inches of wet heavy snow and I was out there for 5 hours clearing what should only take like 2. I couldn't get out of 1st gear and even then had to constantly stop the forward drive and let the augers clear the shute. this is the same machine that 3 years ago cut through 25" (deeper than the front of the intake chute!) without really bogging at all so it's definitely not running right.

I've gone through this thing with a fine tooth comb. at this point I'm leaning toward a loss of compression robbing me of power. what I've found is that the governor is working just fine, but the engine doesn't react to the full throttle condition. in that last storm I mentioned I came in smelling of gas like it was a two cycle engine so I know it's running rich when it bogs down. definitely not a lean fuel issue at this point so I've gotta look elsewhere. I relapped the valves and decarbonized the head last year, changed the head gasket and checked the valve clearances with no real change. the cylinder walls seemed ok, with no major scoring that I could notice, but I've only seen a few engines down to that level in the past so maybe I missed something.

this year I went through the entire auger system down to the final gear drive and everything checks out on that end so it's gotta be engine related.

the thing I'm wondering about now is the compression release system. I haven't been able to find out too much about how this thing works but from what I could find out it seems that it's a mechanical setup that works kinda like a starter overrunning gear in that it helps while the motor is starting and then centrifugal forces from the running motor push it back out of the way and allow the engine to operate at full compression. What I'm wondering is if it's possible for this mechanism to get stuck in the "on" position and cause the engine to constantly run on light compression. it would certainly explain the lack of power but the otherwise "normal" engine running conditions. any thoughts guys?


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## Colored Eggs

Just to check you replaced the carb like you said you ordered last year correct? Is there any flame or does the exhaust get red at all? Also does it have an adjustable carb.


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## HDNewf

I am having a hard time understanding how a bad compression release mechanism could be causing this problem. Your engine would not idle well. The exhaust valve would quickly burn up without the benefit of valve seat cooling. In addition, if the engine was running so rich as to smell raw gas, you would notice the plumes of black smoke as it revved up. Usually a gas smell means a leak, not unburned engine exhaust.

For more information on the compression release mechanism, see this link:
Patent US5184586 - Mechanical compression release for an internal combustion engine - Google Patents 

HDNewf.

.


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## sentinal02

Colored Eggs said:


> Just to check you replaced the carb like you said you ordered last year correct? Is there any flame or does the exhaust get red at all? Also does it have an adjustable carb.


Replacing the carb was done last year without any real marked improvement to the issue. no flame or excessive heating (and I've blown several times in the dark away from the house lights) noted at the carb except right before it runs out of gas in the tank. at that point I sometimes get a quick shot of flame just as the engine dies. sadly it's not an adjustable carb or else I would have tried adjusting it before trying a replacement.

HD, trust me, there's no leak on this engine. if there was, it would be leaking all the time and not just when it was running. this thing is stored inside in my workshop. there's no way I wouldn't notice the gas smell at other times if there was. but when I came inside after using the machine, my clothes reeked of gas. Believe me, before this issue I would have agreed with your original diagnosis of it running lean under load and it was the first thing I tried to fix it. but it's not. I've been down that road every which way and sideways to the point of a full carb replacement. not a rebuild, but a brand new carb. it hasn't solved the problem. I even put the original on a friend's lawnmower over the summer and it ran fine on that engine all season. 

at this point, I can only conclude that I'm lacking compression. I think my blower is running rich during the times when the engine bogs down because the governor does what it's supposed to (I confirmed this visually early on) and sends the throttle wide open. the engine simply doesn't or can't react to the increased fuel mixture and passed the unburnt fuel out the exhaust. I pulled the plug after that last time i used the machine and it's black. it's definitely running rich, not lean. I'm not really familiar with the unloader setup so you tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree before I dump a couple hundred into having the cylinder rebuilt. my understanding is that the pin comes around to lessen the compression during starting but obviously it doesn't totally rob the cylinder of 100% of its compression which means the valve will still seat at some point and still cool to some degree. it's a bump in the cam, not a whole second lobe that will stop the valve from ever closing again. by "stuck" I mean that it still comes around even after the engine is running, not stuck as in froze to the bottom of the lifter. if the exhaust valve was sticking open somehow, then it could explain the unburnt fuel escaping since it would be coming out during the compression stroke prior to the power stroke. at this point it's the only other logical explanation I can come up with to explain the symptoms based on what I've changed. If you've got something else though I'm all ears.


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## Colored Eggs

The reason I was asking if it was red was because I would think if the Decompressor was hitting it some exhaust and heat would hit the muffler and make it run hotter. I'm wondering if it makes it run to rich when it hits some "work" and that makes it bog down even worse. I'm not the best at this yet but I think that would make some sort of logical sense.


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## HDNewf

Hey sentinal02.

At this point I think you are right. Black plugs = rich. Compression release is on the BOTTOM of the exhaust lobe, so I'm wrong about the valve cooling issue. The exhaust valve will close twice, at least at slow speeds. With the rich mixture it is well cooled anyway. The entire engine probably never heats up fully. The higher the engine speed, the more a stuck CRM will totally wreak havok with the valve dynamics.
If this is the case I am surprised your motor even runs at all...

So now the problem becomes splitting the case and getting a new cam. 

HDNewf.

.


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## sentinal02

HDNewf said:


> So now the problem becomes splitting the case and getting a new cam.


that's pretty much what I'm thinking as well. at this point there's just nothing left that I can feasibly think it could be and the more and more I think about the symptoms the more I'm starting to think the unloader could be the culprit. like you said it seems like the engine shouldn't really run too well at all but then it really doesn't compared to what it was when i first got the machine. 

will idle ok, but no power under load
bogs to the point of stalling under load
running rich to the point of plug discoloring, likely contributing to the bogging issue
no issues in the auger system

short of a badly worn cylinder I'm not sure what else it could be. it's just not that complicated of a system! timing and fuel mix are non-adjustable and we've pretty much ruled both out. there's no restriction to the exhaust. If it were a lack of compression in the rings though I would think that as rich as it seems to run when bogging down, that I would see evidence of gas in the oil due to the blow by that it would be generating, at least a strong smell. but I don't see that. I also don't notice any oil consumption or blue smoke during operation. the oil gets changed every season (it's always been a golden color too, never brown or black) and it's never been run low on oil so i just don't see the cylinder wearing that much in the small amount of actual operating time. it sees action but 4 months out of the year and only a couple hours like every 2 weeks during those months so if it's got more than 200 hours on it in 7 years I'd be surprised. 


I've got half a mind to see if i can just disassemble it and ditch the unloading mechanism all together if possible. it's not like I've ever had trouble starting a pull start motor (I can start my 350cc wolverine without trouble) and it's got an electric start on it if needed anyway. at least then I might get a definitive answer on whether or not that's the problem without dropping any more money into this thing.

Colored, it does make some kind of sense, but remember, if the unloader is opening while running the same as it was intended during startup, then it should happen right around TDC on the compression stroke and any escaping gases would be a "relatively" cooler mixture of unburnt gas and air instead of some 1500° spent combustion gases which the muffler will see at the end of the power stroke. since the valve to muffler exit distance is so short on a tiny engine, the unburnt fuel doesn't ignite in the muffler before exiting the way it might in a car's exhaust pipe. if anything I would think all of it would have a cooling effect rather than a heating effect. Like HD said, the engine probably never fully reaches optimum temperature with the rich condition.


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## Colored Eggs

That may be true. Would it be easier to just take the head off and see if its tapping when it shouldn't by just turning the engine over by hand. I know on my mower that I tried to get running I was able to see it crack open so maybe that would be an easier way to check it. But then again when its at speed things can change and act differently.


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## td5771

I have had plenty of engines that even with under par compression they pull hard.

have a briggs on a roto tiller that only registers 50 psi but its an animal.

anyway just a thought...what do you have the float set at? I used to do parallel to the carb body but it didnt perform right. I read somewhere to use an 11/64 drill bit with carb upside down with drill bit laying across the bowl flange and adjust the float so that the float just touches the bit.

The float will sit slightly higher than parallel. has worked well for me.


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## Zerobf

*Lack of power*

Did you ever check to see if the flywheel key is broken or sheered? If so it could cause the timing to become retarded causing lack of power under a load. The key has to be flush with the flywheel and cranksaft. The slightest bit off can cause power issues.


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## HCBPH

*Other ideas*

Another thought is whether the piston, head or valves are carboned up. I've seen carbon so bad a motor barely ran until it was cleaned up. 
Another is whether this engine has electronic ignition or not. I've heard of some on larger engines on lawn tractors have had issues where when loaded or hot may cut in and out.
Last idea I had might be to switch out the carb with an adjustable one.
Just some random thoughts.


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## Buttchet

I'm with zerobf, I had a 5.5hp Tecumseh that I just couldn't get running correctly, bought the whole snow blower for $40 because no shop in the area could fix it for him - i Tried everything too... Gave the engine to my friend at work that was an engineer for Tecumseh snow engines before they closed...he brought it back next day with the broken fly wheel key in hand. Had a lot of the same issues as yours... I cleaned the carb 15 times lapped the valves 3 times....


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## nt40lanman

The key is worth a look. Looking down the list of possibilities, 

Fuel: Carb has been replaced with no change.
Air: throttle is opening, exhaust is clear
Compression: Could be weak, prob not. Could be carbon in the cylinder?
Spark: Spark is good, timing is suspect

The head is easy to get off while the front cover is off so...


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## Cavalier

Hello everyone. Newbee here.

Have a MTD Gold Series Yard Machine. 5hp Tecumseh. Gladually losing power over the years. Bogs done in small amounts of snow where before it went thru easily. Doesn't seem to stay running at low idle. High throttle doesn't seem as high as it used to. Last night I noticed when it was bogging down, small flame would spout out of muffler. It stalled a couple times and had hard time restarting by pulling and I'd get a couple of backfires . Have to have it almost full throttle to start. I tried the starter and it sounds as if it's just spinning...no engagement of flywheel. Not sure if the extreme cold we have right now is keeping the gear from engaging. Blower is roughly 8-9 years old. Like sential's, travel is good and augers seem ok. 

Not really small engine savvy so would a replacement be better than sticking money into a used engine?

Sentinal, any news on how you fixed your problem?


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## Shryp

Another 5 HP Tecumseh thread for you guys to check:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...842-tecumseh-5hp-dies-when-auger-engaged.html

popular consensus is 2 things, 1 the carb needs cleaned and / or 2 the exhaust valve needs ground down.


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## Cavalier

Thaks for the reply Shryp. 

How much would a dealer charge for such a thing? 

Sounds like grinding valves is a deep internal fix that would take time...and money.


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## Shryp

Cavalier said:


> Thaks for the reply Shryp.
> 
> How much would a dealer charge for such a thing?
> 
> Sounds like grinding valves is a deep internal fix that would take time...and money.


No idea. I have never had to grind the valves on anything I have, but if it came up I would do it myself. Between forums like this and youtube it isn't too difficult to figure out. I don't use dealers for anything, but I suppose I am somewhat mechanically inclined as well.


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## Cavalier

Geee, now the thing won't stay running. 

Using the starter (that started working) it starts up and seems to run well... (but not at a high idle RPM that it used to). After about 10 seconds it gradually slows down 'til it dies. I tried the primer but a soon as I pumped it just a little it instantly died so I assume it wasn't starving for fuel. 

I'm mechanically inclined as well but need a straight forward guideline, if that makes any sense. ; )


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## ranvette

Really the first thing that should be done is a leak down test.These engines can have ring problems or valve issues.A leak down test will give you a very good idea of the engines state of health.You dont really see compression specs because the engine has a compression release for easy starting.A leak down test that shows 15% or under slightly indicates a strong engine.I know a fellow that rebuilds and resells a lot of old blowers generally weak Tecumseh engines that fail a leak down test get rings and a valve job.Just as good as new after with full power on tap again


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## Cavalier

I have a feeling that's what I'll be doing vette. 9 years old, it may need an overhaul. Just wondering if it'll be cheaper buying a new engine? 

Wait and see I guess.

Still -11F here. Not snowing so I'm not needing the blower yet but "Old Man Winter" isn't done yet.


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## ranvette

Well it all depends on how handy you are and if you can do the work yourself.The price of rings and gaskets wont be a lot.Most likely less than a 100 bucks to do the whole job.The engine is fairly easy to work on.You just need to be focused on detail.Valve clearance and all.When these engines get weak they just wont toss snow far and tend to dye out under load.I have 2 ariens a 6hp and 8hp.The 6 is a 1968 and the 8 is a 1980.Both are un touched and toss as good as new.So changeing oil a lot in these motors really makes them last.The 6 did have is flywheel break in several pices a few years back.Other than that its been a few sets of points and condensers and ign coils and a number of carb rebuilds is all the engines have needed.Of course they could break a rod i suppose but i will keep enjoying them.I do have a fairly new Tec 7hp snow king in stock with real low hours on it.If anything was to happen to the 6hp i might repower that one with the 7hp and dress it with the 6hp engine parts to make it look like the stock 6hp engine.


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## Cavalier

Well it was the exhaust valve. Took it to the a dealer. Ground the valves and seats, clean carb, gaskets etc etc. 

Bill... $164. 

Runs great. I can't complain. $164 was worth having a pro do it rather than me trying for the 1st time with no specialty tools.


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## GustoGuy

Cavalier said:


> Well it was the exhaust valve. Took it to the a dealer. Ground the valves and seats, clean carb, gaskets etc etc.
> 
> Bill... $164.
> 
> Runs great. I can't complain. $164 was worth having a pro do it rather than me trying for the 1st time with no specialty tools.


Good to hear that.


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## Cavalier

May be just in time too. Sounds like we'll be getting some more this weekend.


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## Cavalier

Wow! Life is good!

This baby blows like a young pup again!

Just got another 5 inches with 15 MPH wind.

Went thru it at almost full speed.

How'bout it guys...when our equipment works great it's a great feelin'!

Almost look forward to blowin' 

I'll admit it...it's a _"guy"_ thing.


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## z31kid

I just inherited a Tecumseh H70 that has same issue, loses power under load but idles like a champ and runs great otherwise. It had a slight knock which got worse and broke the connecting rod. Oil was full so not sure what happened. I had found this thread before the rod broke and thought my valves were suspect but they looked clean. 
After getting things back together I still have the same issue, flywheel key looks ok so unless the main jet isn't adjusted correctly after rebuild, but wouldn't the motor run hot if it were lean? It idles and runs like a champ otherwise.


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## GustoGuy

z31kid said:


> I just inherited a Tecumseh H70 that has same issue, loses power under load but idles like a champ and runs great otherwise. It had a slight knock which got worse and broke the connecting rod. Oil was full so not sure what happened. I had found this thread before the rod broke and thought my valves were suspect but they looked clean.
> After getting things back together I still have the same issue and will have to check that flywheel key, unless the main jet isn't adjusted correctly after rebuild, but wouldn't the motor run hot if it were lean? It idles and runs like a champ otherwise.
> How bad is it to change a flywheel key on a 10m-l60 tractor?


Pretty easy to pop a flywheel off. You need to get an inexpensive puller. Some people pop them off with a big screw driver and a whack with a mallet to the end of the crankshaft. Place the new key in the slot and line up the flywheel and use the rope trick to tighten the flywheel up. Rope trick is piece of rope down the spark plug hole and move piston to top dead center and the rope stops the engine from rotating. Tighten flywheel nut to the proper torque value.


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## CarlB

z31kid said:


> I just inherited a Tecumseh H70 that has same issue, loses power under load but idles like a champ and runs great otherwise. It had a slight knock which got worse and broke the connecting rod. Oil was full so not sure what happened. I had found this thread before the rod broke and thought my valves were suspect but they looked clean.
> After getting things back together I still have the same issue, flywheel key looks ok so unless the main jet isn't adjusted correctly after rebuild, but wouldn't the motor run hot if it were lean? It idles and runs like a champ otherwise.


Just because the valves looked clean doesn't mean there isn't a problem with the valve to lifter clearance. Check for .008 to .012 clearance on the exhaust stem and I think about .006 on the intake. 

Carl


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## z31kid

All true, but I would suspect other issues if I had a valve or lifter problem. I'll have to take a short video and post it late today or tomorrow. If I increase the throttle after it starts to slow, it remains steady thruout the plow.

Would it matter at all if I over twisted the spring on the throttle shaft? I did a complete carb rebuild and may have over twisted that spring so it pulls the throttle plate with more tension....


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## Grunt

z31kid said:


> All true, but I would suspect other issues if I had a valve or lifter problem. I'll have to take a short video and post it late today or tomorrow. If I increase the throttle after it starts to slow, it remains steady thruout the plow.
> 
> Would it matter at all if I over twisted the spring on the throttle shaft? I did a complete carb rebuild and may have over twisted that spring so it pulls the throttle plate with more tension....


A valve problem would be apparent if you have low compression, a popping through the exhaust when the engine is hot, hard starting when engine is hot or low power when engine is hot. 

A sheared flywheel key, which is very rare on a snow blower, would usually make the engine kick back and rip the starter cord from your hand or the engine will run very rough from being out of time.

Why would you not use full throttle when snow blowing??

The spring on the throttle shaft is there to help close the throttle plate when moving the speed control to slow speed or off and should not be part of your problem.


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## z31kid

Again, I agree which is why this has me scratching my head. Tough to say what it could be since this motor is new to me and I don't know what the PO had done to it.
I probably don't have the main jet adjusted properly. I will have to play with that tonight.

And for the record, I have the throttle most of the way up but not full because the snow is light. The engine slow down doesn't seem to be caused by excessive snow in the augers.


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## Motor City

Check the spark. I had an 8.5hp, where the spark was weak. You could barely see it. But it would start on the first pull. I replaced the coil and readjusted the carb and it runs fine. I had also adjusted the valves and lapped them in, prior. Trying to figure out why it was running poorly.


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## Grunt

Could possibly be the vent in the gas cap is partially blocked and restricting fuel flow to the carb???


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## z31kid

Well it does seem to be burning a lot of oil, I don't see any leaks and seem to have to add some after about an hour of use, but that's with me pushing to full throttle until the chute clears then I back off so I don't overrev the motor. I guess a better way to describe it is that it acts like it is trying to throw a full bucket of wet snow, but I'm trying to move half a bucket of 8" light snow, almost as if it slows at the touch of snow. My 6HP H60 that my Dad got new doesn't act like this, so I'm not sure what the PO did.






If I push the throttle any faster I will definitely be overrevving the motor. I'll see if I can get a better video in daylight. Oh and I played with the main jet and it seems that it was already calibrated in the sweet spot already but I did back it out 1/4 turn.


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## Grunt

It sounds like the governor is not working the way it should by increasing RPM's when encountering a load. Make sure all moving parts of the carb linkage move smoothly. Another possibility, the governor spring is stretched out and is not pulling the throttle plate correctly. You can not tell if the engine is over revving just by the sound, you will need a tachometer to confirm that and I would concentrate on getting all the linkages set to their correct configuration per the engine service manual.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## z31kid

Got it working properly now.... after closer inspection and comparing with my 6hp, the governor linkage was setup wrong. I adjusted everything, tested it out and it runs much better now.


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## Grunt

Good job, glad to hear it is working well now. Sometimes it is the little things that drive us crazy.


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## heysoos

*Same problem on same blower*



sentinal02 said:


> well guys, it's a new year but it's the same old problem with this machine. it seems to get a little worse year after year. the last storm we had that dumped about 5 inches of wet heavy snow and I was out there for 5 hours clearing what should only take like 2. I couldn't get out of 1st gear and even then had to constantly stop the forward drive and let the augers clear the shute. this is the same machine that 3 years ago cut through 25" (deeper than the front of the intake chute!) without really bogging at all so it's definitely not running right.
> 
> I've gone through this thing with a fine tooth comb. at this point I'm leaning toward a loss of compression robbing me of power. what I've found is that the governor is working just fine, but the engine doesn't react to the full throttle condition. in that last storm I mentioned I came in smelling of gas like it was a two cycle engine so I know it's running rich when it bogs down. definitely not a lean fuel issue at this point so I've gotta look elsewhere. I relapped the valves and decarbonized the head last year, changed the head gasket and checked the valve clearances with no real change. the cylinder walls seemed ok, with no major scoring that I could notice, but I've only seen a few engines down to that level in the past so maybe I missed something.
> 
> this year I went through the entire auger system down to the final gear drive and everything checks out on that end so it's gotta be engine related.
> 
> the thing I'm wondering about now is the compression release system. I haven't been able to find out too much about how this thing works but from what I could find out it seems that it's a mechanical setup that works kinda like a starter overrunning gear in that it helps while the motor is starting and then centrifugal forces from the running motor push it back out of the way and allow the engine to operate at full compression. What I'm wondering is if it's possible for this mechanism to get stuck in the "on" position and cause the engine to constantly run on light compression. it would certainly explain the lack of power but the otherwise "normal" engine running conditions. any thoughts guys?


Mine is the MTD version of the same. HSSK50 carb. And the model is MTD 5/24. Same Tecumseh motor & config as the Snow King. I have replaced the carb, and done most of the other maintenance, but it is still really bogging under load. I will have to have a look at the valves, as this is the only other thing I can figure.


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## Saewoody

gregmy123 said:


> Take it to a Pro you ****** moron.




You've been a member for 5 hours and that is your first post? Real helpful. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Grunt

gregmy123 said:


> Take it to a Pro you ******* moron.


Goodbye greg. :icon-sadwave:


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## sscotsman

gregmy123 has been banned from the forum.
thanks,
Scot


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