# 10 HP engine swap to newer model



## bldmtnrider (Feb 26, 2013)

So I may be taking a different route with my broken driftbreaker. My current machine is a 536.884700 with a broken gear case but the engine runs great.

Instead of fixing the gear box I am debating swaping the engine to a newer model. I have a line on a newer Craftsman 28" (246.886900) without an engine. 

Would I have any issues pulling my engine and putting it on a new frame. I figure the newer frame would at least have parts available for a few years to come so it might be a good time to break ties with the driftbreaker.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Should fit as long as both blowers took the same type of motor. Ie single shaft or duel shaft. I replaced a 5hp tecumseh with a 9.5hp briggs on my 69 ariens. With only a few mods.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Tranny issues*

So what's wrong with the tranny in your Craftsman? About the only issue I've seen is where the mount to the intermediate shaft is damaged from operator not maintaining the step bolts on the intermediate shaft. 

There is no fix from Sears because they want to sell you a new tranny, but I've come up with a repair kit I've used before. I'm in the middle of a rebuild that's being documented at Restorationmen Forum and I'll be doing that to it most likely later this month.

I had one machine I did it to and used it for about 2 years withou a problem.

Just FYI.

By the way, if you put that engine on another chassis, the most likely issue could be throttle linkage if it's not the same setup and/or pulley size.


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## bldmtnrider (Feb 26, 2013)

Looks like the auger gear in the driftbreaker is done. Wasn't able to get the one on craigslist fast enough.

I like the old steel of the driftbreaker, but given parts are about impossibile to find, I figure it is time to step up to a newer machine.

I went ahead and picked up the newer machine. Only thing that is missing is the engine and pullies. Turns out the previous owner pulled it out of the package and fired it up. Didn't bother to put oil it in. There is literally not one scratch on it.

I'll try to get the engine off the driftbreaker tonight and then will have to mess with the pullies in the coming days.

Out of curiosity, any opinion on where the best place is to scrap parts off the driftbreaker? Asside from the Auger gears, everything looks like it works ok. Would prefer that someone else can keep their machine running longer.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Misc*

My mistake, I thought you were saying the transmission gearcase was broken, not the auger gearcase.

I've bought and sold a number of 536.918xxx and 536.882xxx Craftsman snowblowers. The 7 HP and above are virtually all identical parts wise, I wouldn't be surprised if yours doesn't use the same auger gearcase. It's not really that hard to tear down and rebuild if the physical case is still intact (I'd expect it's the gear that's gone). The hard part comes in to play if the auger rakes are rusted onto the shaft or not, but even that's doable in most cases given a little persuasion and time.

I tried checking the model number on the other blower you referenced, it doesn't come up for me. I'm going to stick my 2 cents into this though based on some assumptions. I'm guessing the other machine is a friction drive unit that's newer. I wouldn't get rid of your current blower if you have space for it (with or without an engine) as IMO it's the better blower. If you can get the other blower for a 'good price' it would be a quick fix but I expect it would not be of the same strength and quality as your existing machine. You could either (assuming it's the auger gear) watch for a parts machine or buy the part and put it into your existing machine. The auger gear is around $50 while I've bought complete parts machines for less than that.

If you'd like some info on these type issues, here's a couple of threads that might be of interest.
This one was a smaller machine but it covers opening the auger gear case and installing new bushings and seals:
Auger Housing Repair/Rebuild
Here's one on rebuilding a 3 Stage that's fairly close to yours. This was a ground up restore of a fairly sad unit but it was brought back:
Evaluating a used snowblower purchase and proceeding with a rebuild

There's also a number of Youtube videos on replacing an auger gear, just do a search on them.


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## bldmtnrider (Feb 26, 2013)

Completely agree that the newer machine is not near the quality of the older machine. I did go ahead and pick it up but haven't had a chance to start the swap yet.

I''m still torn on which direction to go but I'll have that figured out in the next day or so.

Option 1 will be to retrofit the auger off the new machine into the old machine. New one is 28" vs 32" and I don't think it uses a 1" auger shaft. I am pretty handy in a machine shop so that shouldn't be a problem as long as the drop from the impeller shaft is the same on both machines. Unfortunately I am not able to machine a new worm gear but a few shaft extentions and an auger spacer should not be a problem.

Option 2 would be putting the old engine on the new frame. Only thing I'll have to do there is figure out a few pully issues, but I'll be left with a less reliable machine. 

Again, big deciding factor is going to be replacement parts so I am still leaning towards the newer machine. Worst case I figure I will just re-engineer faulty parts as they break.

I have plenty of space to store the old machine, but that will be decided once I get one working machine that looks to be reliable. I figure if I can ge tthe new machine working correctly I should have a few years of trouble free operation before I have to mess with anything as well as parts support.

Sure wish companies would stop letting bean couters and engineers mix.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Auger gear*

I did do a little more looking. The gearcase in your machine (536.884700) lists the same part numbers as the ones I mentioned in the other thread. That does mean that the parts from virtually any 536.918xxx and 536.882xxx machine that's 7 HP or bigger (the ones with the 1" auger shaft) is comparable to yours. I've picked up quite a few of them over the years and it is a simple job to swap out as long as the auger rakes come off. Additionally most of the parts machines I've bought have been in the $25-$50 range. That would be an easy way to repair yours at a decent price and it's not too hard to do. 

I did that with a couple and even swapped out the housing on one to use the narrower housing to get it through the garage door. There's a thread here on how I did it. It's been rock solid for 2 years now and beats the snow into submission.


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

Make sure to take some pics of the swap and share them with us.


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## bldmtnrider (Feb 26, 2013)

Auger rakes are rusted on pretty good. I'm sure I could get them off, but not sure how much time I want to invest in it with the nice weather we are having (would rather go out and play).

I popped the engine off the driftbreaker and placed it on the new machine last night to see what I was in for. Everything lined up great and I should even be able to use the belt guard that came with it.

Only challenge I see with fitting is the pully. The orriginial pully is a 1 piece 2 pully design, looks like 3"OD with a 1" shaft. Problem is my orriginal pully is 1/2 too short to fit up to both belts. Looking around to see what is available for pullies but may have to get slightly creative but all in all a very small problem.

I am going to hold onto the old machine for a bit and see if one pops up this spring at a decent price. They show up every now and then, but they are not usually cheap, even for the ones that don't run. If not, I'll take off any parts that I might be able to use and scrap it.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Stuck Rakes*

Here's a thread that includes how I got a set of rusted on rakes off a blower.

Auger Housing Repair/Rebuild


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## bldmtnrider (Feb 26, 2013)

I've got the new motor mounted and the pullies set up but I think I've run into my first problem.

The newer machine looks to use 2 different width v-belts with the smaller belt driving the wheels. Problem I have is since I am mounting an older motor with a 1" shaft I had a hard time finding the right pully for the smaller belt. I took my old pully and did a little machine work to make it fit. 

My concern actually lies on the auger side which is using the new pully which is slightly smaller in diameter. I suspect that using the smaller pully I will be slowing down the impeller and auger but without knowing what the orriginal diameter was of the stock pully I can't be sure. Does anyone out there have a 9HP/28" craftsman that can check the auger drive pully diameter for me?

The other option I have is try to use the larger belt for the drive wheels and swap the pullies, but I am concerned about wearing belts out too quickly.

Also, since the old engine has power output for lights I am planning on mounting a light (or 2) to the new machine. Any thoughts on placing them up on the auger housing like the older driftbreakers or leave it up on the handlebar?


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Pulleys*

I suspect what you're going to have to do is change the pulley on the engine. I assume you have a twin shaft motor on the old chassis. Far as I can tell the tractor unit you're putting it on takes a single shaft, meaning you have a single pulley for 2 belts.

If that's right, get yourself the right pulley and don't use the pulley on the 2d shaft and you're done.


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## bldmtnrider (Feb 26, 2013)

The replacment engine is a 10hp single shaft. I hooked up the auger yesterday and it looks like it is going to work fine. I still don't know what the orriginal pully size was on the machine, but it threw snow pretty well so I am probably not too far off on the impeller speed. I may still want to modify the impeller with the rubber blades to give it a little extra help but everything should be OK. 

Just have to get the tensioner hooked up for the drive wheels and I should be done.


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