# Need Heated Hand grips ?



## RIT333

In case you wish you had heated hand grips, and don't - like me - I found a cheap solution on EBay. I bought a set of 12 volt heaters for motorcycle hand grips and they cost well under $5. After installing them, I found out that the alternator was strong enough to power the headlight OR the hand grips, and not both - well it would, but neither would be warm or bright enough to be worthwhile. So, when I wired it in, I installed a switch for the heated hand grips and another for the headlight. So, I can have light or heat, or neither. 

Installation is easy - you wrap the electric grid around the existing handle-grip, and then cover it with heat-shrink tubing. Everything is provided except the second switch which I also bought off of EBay. 

Here is a link to the kit that I bought, and after 2 seasons, it still keeps my hands warm !

Rit

Universal Motorcycle Heated Hand Grips Warmer Kit Suzuki Yamaha Honda Kawasaki | eBay


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## scipper77

Looks great if you have a lighting circuit. I personally wear gloves with a leather palm and I have never even considered the possibility of the handle bars making my hands cold.


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## markp99

Heated hand grips were a nice bonus on my Platinum 24. I have never considered the option until I was out shopping for a replacement machine.

I must admit I do like the feature and they really do make a difference in comfort. Numb fingertips no more!


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## Blue Hill

RIT333 said:


> In case you wish you had heated hand grips, and don't - like me - I found a cheap solution on EBay. I bought a set of 12 volt heaters for motorcycle hand grips and they cost well under $5. After installing them, I found out that the alternator was strong enough to power the headlight OR the hand grips, and not both - well it would, but neither would be warm or bright enough to be worthwhile. So, when I wired it in, I installed a switch for the heated hand grips and another for the headlight. So, I can have light or heat, or neither.
> 
> Installation is easy - you wrap the electric grid around the existing handle-grip, and then cover it with heat-shrink tubing. Everything is provided except the second switch which I also bought off of EBay.
> 
> Here is a link to the kit that I bought, and after 2 seasons, it still keeps my hands warm !
> 
> 
> Rit


Welcome to the forum Rit. Good find. I was lucky enough to get a machine with the heaters already included and for me, in my conditions they are a must have. I wouldn't be without them now, if I had a choice.


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## chrisexv6

It would be nice to know how much these draw, since (especially on older Ariens blowers) there were several different power circuits available. AC, AC/DC, etc.

I personally only have an 18W A/C output intended only for a headlight. We know using a bridge rectifier will get me DC out of it, but without knowing the draw of these handgrips, I dont know if 18W will be enough.


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## uberT

IIRC, they draw 20W each.


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## RIT333

20 Watts per would seem like a bit too much heat. Heck, my soldering iron is 25 watts, and I would not want to get my hand close to that. IMHO


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## Blue Hill

Ariens has told me that they draw 30 watts for the set. My light draws 20 watts and my alternator puts out 60 watts AC.


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## hankster1

Thank you for the link. I just ordered myself a pair and will see how they work

Thank You,
Hank


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## chrisexv6

Blue Hill said:


> Ariens has told me that they draw 30 watts for the set. My light draws 20 watts and my alternator puts out 60 watts AC.


Thanks. Should be helpful if those of us with older models want to try. My 2006 926LE puts out 18W so I cant use these even without the light.

I did have an old Bolens with heated hand grips....they were handy very occasionally (it also had a cab, so between the cab and heated hand grips I could deal with the EOD mess without "gearing up" for the weather)

Never really missed them on my Ariens, I got a decent set of ski gloves (from Costco of all places!)


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## loneraider

++++++++ on the heated grips.
my finger tips go white when too cold 
Raynaud's Disease its called so I try to
keep them warm as possible. When washing
the truck I wear rubber gloves in spring or fall
and it helps.


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## Mr Fixit

Yes loneraider I can testify to that. Just touching cold tap water sets my hands off. I wear home knit wool mitts inside $130 skidoo gloves and I'm OK for 30 minutes outside. Worse at night. I wish they'd solve that. They have no idea on what the cause is.


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## MnJim

How does one figure out how much there systems output is?

I have a 2014 Deluxe 28

For $4 I figured I would order.


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## Leon

MnJim said:


> How does one figure out how much there systems output is?
> 
> I have a 2014 Deluxe 28
> 
> For $4 I figured I would order.


 Set your multimeter to Amps and check the Alternator. Then times that value by 12 to get Watts. Example: 5 amps X 12 Volts = 60 watts.


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## MnJim

Leon said:


> Set your multimeter to Amps and check the Alternator. Then times that value by 12 to get Watts. Example: 5 amps X 12 Volts = 60 watts.


 Guess I thought the info was available in a manual somewhere for those of us without a multimeter

Thanks


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## loneraider

Mnjim, your machine should put out 50 watts.If you bought the Ariens heated grips they are approx. 35 watts and you light is about 10 or 15 watts. You can add led lights , 2 or 4 of them as they are only 5 watts
or so and they are really bright!! .


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## MnJim

loneraider said:


> Mnjim, your machine should put out 50 watts.If you bought the Ariens heated grips they are approx. 35 watts and you light is about 10 or 15 watts. You can add led lights , 2 or 4 of them as they are only 5 watts
> or so and they are really bright!! .


 thnx


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## Blue Hill

MnJim said:


> Guess I thought the info was available in a manual somewhere for those of us without a multimeter
> 
> Thanks


Your alternator is the same as mine. 60 watts AC


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## hankster1

I just received my heated handgrip kit and plan on installing it tomorrow. I will get a 3 position double pole switch so I can sellect light, heat or off.
Hank


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## MnJim

Weird
I ordered from the link provided by the OP a few days later received a email from seller stating no longer available and they wouldn't be getting anymore, Just checked the link and its says available.


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## RedOctobyr

Cool discovery! 

Just a thought for anyone that runs into problems with not having enough power to run lights & heaters at the same time. 

I assume the heaters are normally each running off ~12V from the alternator. If you wire the heaters in series, each will get 6V, not 12V. This will reduce their output to 1/4 of the original. So 12V, 35W heaters would put out 9W if you wire them in series, thereby cutting their voltage in half, to 6V. 

To do this, you'd run one output from the alternator to wire A of one heater. You'd connect wire B of that heater to wire A of the second heater. Then wire B of the second heater would go to the alternator. 

This could also be helpful if the heaters were sort of too powerful (got too hot), even if you had enough alternator power available to run them.


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## Kiss4aFrog

RIT333 said:


> 20 Watts per would seem like a bit too much heat. Heck, my soldering iron is 25 watts, and I would not want to get my hand close to that. IMHO


But you have to remember that is 25 watts concentrated into the tip of the soldering iron used in a 70-80 degree room, on average.

These heaters are 15/20 watts over there 16?? sq inches and radiating heat in both directions.Toward your hand but also it's getting sucked up by the metal handle like a heat sink and they are used in cold to very cold temperatures.

I have a set on order too  At that price it's worth a shot and it's the only way I'm going to afford to do all my machines. Might even get one for the rototiller if it works out.


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## Pathfinder13

Hello All ... my first post, just joined this week and very impressed with all the knowledge on this forum. Two weeks back I bought an older Toro Powershift 824 (38540) in decent shape, cleaning 'er up a bit and over the summer I'l do auger bearings replacement. Seems like a heavy little beast but I like it so far.

Anyhow, just wanted to chime in and say that I have no heated handgrips and not sure if the machine has the capability but I would love to know if anyone has the answer as I'd like to install some for next year if it does. 

I can add that last storm I used my insulated goretex ski gloves for waterproof and wind resistance with a handwarmer slid in on TOP of my hand and it worked out well but a little bulky. Placing the warmer on top allows the veins on top of the hand to transfer the warmer blood down the fingers and keeps your grip the same size to work the bars. I always do the same when out doing winter photography but with thinner gloves. Locally our Sam's Club carrying 28 pair boxes of warmers for under 10 bucks. 

Does anyone know if the older early 90's Toro (Tecumseh 8hp) is capable of powering the aftermarket hand grips ?


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## Kiss4aFrog

To check to see if it might have a stator and equipped to run a light or warmers you need to look where the starter is or should be and see if you have a wire or a pair of wires or three wires leading to a connector just hanging there.
Like the white connector in the photo.
.


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## hankster1

I have the heaters installed and got to use them today. After 2 hours of run time they kept my hands nice and warm. I was carefull when placing on the existing grips to make sure they would be under my finger tips. I had to rework the wiring harness as it was too short for my machine. The switch is real small and I plan to replace with a double pole switch so I can select heat off or light. So far I am pleased with them and under $5;00 you can't go lose.
Hank


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## Kiss4aFrog

Where are the photos of the install ?


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## Pathfinder13

Kiss4aFrog said:


> To check to see if it might have a stator and equipped to run a light or warmers you need to look where the starter is or should be and see if you have a wire or a pair of wires or three wires leading to a connector just hanging there.
> Like the white connector in the photo.
> .


Thanks for the info ! I looked and no wires... would have been nice but my alternate method worked out fine so no worries


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## RIT333

hankster1 said:


> I have the heaters installed and got to use them today. After 2 hours of run time they kept my hands nice and warm. I was carefull when placing on the existing grips to make sure they would be under my finger tips. I had to rework the wiring harness as it was too short for my machine. The switch is real small and I plan to replace with a double pole switch so I can select heat off or light. So far I am pleased with them and under $5;00 you can't go lose.
> Hank


Beats the crap out of me who the Chinese can build, ship and make a profit on these things for under $5. Just got back from vacation, and got 4 packages of "valuable stuff" from China that had a total cost of under $13. I felt like Christmas all over again.


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## Normex

Greetings all,
Are the $5 heaters still available? If so can someone post a link for ordering. I know Kimpex sell some for 4 wheelers grips but more pricier.

Many thanks


Norm


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## Kiss4aFrog

I can't recommend these but they are the ones I ordered 2-17 and I'm still waiting on them. They'll be here just in time for all the snow to have melted and for me to lube and store the blower for the year. 

Heated Grips Inserts Handlebar Hand Warmer Fits Universal Grip ATV MOTORCYCLE12V | eBay

I'm also trying to figure out if you put them under the grips or on top of them


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## Kiss4aFrog

RIT333 said:


> Beats the crap out of me who the Chinese can build, ship and make a profit on these things for under $5. Just got back from vacation, and got 4 packages of "valuable stuff" from China that had a total cost of under $13. I felt like Christmas all over again.



Me too. They are just too cheap not to give them a try. If I get a chance to test them and they work well I might order a bunch of them and offer three day delivery for 5 bucks more. When I ordered them it was still below zero daily and now it's up over forty last couple days and all I have is slush !! Waiting a month to get delivery just sucks.


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## RIT333

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I can't recommend these but they are the ones I ordered 2-17 and I'm still waiting on them. They'll be here just in time for all the snow to have melted and for me to lube and store the blower for the year.
> 
> Heated Grips Inserts Handlebar Hand Warmer Fits Universal Grip ATV MOTORCYCLE12V | eBay
> 
> I'm also trying to figure out if you put them under the grips or on top of them


I put mine on top of the grips. I don't think that they get warm enough to warm up the metal frame, and the hand grip, and your hand. Then, you put the heat-shrink over the heaters. I think I found a video on YouTube to discuss the installation on a motorcycle.


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## Normex

Hi K4, thks for the link, I know they fit under the grips unless they come with the grip included like Hotgrips.



Norm


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## RIT333

Normex said:


> Hi K4, thks for the link, I know they fit under the grips unless they come with the grip included like Hotgrips.
> 
> 
> 
> Norm


They may fit under the grips - very tightly - but I doubt if you will feel any heat, except for in the summer !


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## Normex

Hi RIT, if that's the case then they would'nt draw near 20 watts.
I bought a set which I paid $60.00 to fit on my 4 wheeler and they are under the grips with plenty of warmth. In any case for $5 fitting them over with heat shrink is no prob.
I checked my voltage at the lights and at full throttle it shows 14.8 V.
and AC voltage, I thought these were running DC. My snowblower is a Ariens 1130 DLE but with the tecumseh engine. Is 14.8 v enough to run light and heat warmers? I bought a set on Ebay today. $4 and free shipping ! Must be a scam, will see.

Thanks

Norm


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## MnJim

Normex

Its more about output wattage then volts but regardless you should be fine with the heated grips and oem light.
The stator on these output A/C there is quite a bit of info/ideas on the topic about converting to LED lights to lower your wattage drain on the system.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...rading-your-snowblower-lights-led-lights.html


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## hankster1

No a scam I got mine in the mail and only paid $4.00. On my blower I only have the power to run either the light or heaters noto both at the same time. I mounted a selector switch so I can select either heat, light or off. Mine get just warm enough to keep my fingers from getting numb.
Hank


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## Kiss4aFrog

Normex said:


> I checked my voltage at the lights and at full throttle it shows 14.8 V and AC voltage, I thought these were running DC. My snowblower is a Ariens 1130 DLE but with the tecumseh engine. Is 14.8 v enough to run light and heat warmers? Norm


Voltage and AMPS !! If you had the hand warmers hooked up and you measured 14 volts then yes it will run them and you're getting all their heat. If it has 14.8 volts now and you hook hand warmers up and then it's reading 10 volts you will have poor heating. It's not the volts, they are necessary but they aren't what is important. What the machines stator can put out in amps or support in watts is what is important. Voltage is a pressure, it's needed but amps get the work done. As you increase the resistance like a bigger light, hand warmers you will see a voltage drop.


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## RIT333

Trust me, that'll put out enough power, but you may need to run either the light or the warmers. With mine, together, there is too much load. Before you permanently install them, just wrap them lightly aroung the outside of the handlegrip, and decide if it is hot enough to heat up the cold metal handle and get heat past the handlegrip to warm your hands. I think that;ll convince you to put them on the outside on the handlegrip. IMHO But, you be the judge !


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## Normex

Many thanks for the replies. Yesterday I tried to get a reading with my ampmeter and nothing would show as only when set to voltage then I got 14.8 volt. I wanted to gett amps then multiply by 12 to get wattage.
Just got an email the grip heaters just got shipped from hongtong. Hopefully by air instead of by barge.

Take care All

Norm


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## RIT333

Normex said:


> Many thanks for the replies. Yesterday I tried to get a reading with my ampmeter and nothing would show as only when set to voltage then I got 14.8 volt. I wanted to gett amps then multiply by 12 to get wattage.
> Just got an email the grip heaters just got shipped from hongtong. Hopefully by air instead of by barge.
> 
> Take care All
> 
> Norm


I'm not sure how reliable air transport from Southeast Asia is these days. They still have no idea where the Malaysian Airliner is.

As far as a current (amp) reading from your circuit, you will only be able to get that if you have a load hooked up to it, like a headlight. Then, it will only show you the current draw for that load. What you really need in the wattage output for your snowblower's generator. Seems like that is a closely guarded "secret".


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## Kiss4aFrog

Mine were sent by balloon. 28 days and still counting (for it to land) 



RIT333 said:


> Trust me, that'll put out enough power, but you may need to run either the light or the warmers.


I'm not sure which engine you are referring to or if people have posted their engines ??

Both my Craftsman blowers will run a light but neither will run a hand warmer. They might heat slightly but the maximum output of the stator isn't enough for what the hand warmers need. So they are limited to an 18 Watt headlight. Even that is at the top end of what the stator can produce.
The Estate and Troy have a dual lead from the stator labeled for a headlight and hand warmers so they are good to go.

Before I tell someone they have enough power to run hand warmers I'd want to know exactly what engine and what stator we are talking about. That, and not all hand warmers have the same power draw. 

My China hand warmers are rated 20 W (10W X 2) at 12 volts. That would be 1.6 amps. My Craftsman Tec engines only have a 1 amp stator.

The other thing is it's one amp at max RPM. Unlike a car you can start up and let idle to warm up the hand warmers won't even start to warm up until you get past half throttle. The more amperage your stator produces the earlier the warmers would start to heat up. 

If you can't find specs for your engine and or you're not sure what stator it has as some have multiple options the other option is to put a load on the output line and then read the volts. If it sticks at or above 12 volts you're good. If it drops below 12 the load is too big and won't function properly as in dim light or poor heat.


Ohms X Amps = Volts
Amps X Volts = Watts


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## Kiss4aFrog

That wait is a real pain. I ordered mine from ebay "Lioncitysg" on Feb 17th and I'm still waiting for them to arrive.


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## Normex

K4F I as well ordered from Lioncity at a later date than you. They sent me an email saying it was shipped by canoe likely. Please post when you receive it. Could turn blue holding our breath.

Norm


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## Normex

Forgot to add, my 2008 Ariens 1130DLE has an 11hp Tecumseh. I don't know about the stator but do you think engine that size could handle the light plus cheapo hand warmers?

thanks

Norm


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## RedOctobyr

You'd have plenty of engine power, if that's what you're asking. But the stator's capability is the real question. Even a 60W output is not even 0.1hp.


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## Kiss4aFrog

RedOctobyr said:


> You'd have plenty of engine power, if that's what you're asking. But the stator's capability is the real question. Even a 60W output is not even 0.1hp.


+1 on that. My Troy with a 5hp has dual outputs, one for the headlight and one for the warmers. My older 10hp Tec engines on the Craftsmans only have enough juice for a 18W headlight. It's not horsepower you have to worry about it's finding out how much output your stator has.

Be careful about contacting them. I sent that question asking about when I can expect to see those hand warmers and they wanted 7 more days. I wasn't happy and said so. I don't mind waiting but they are past when they said the latest delivery date would be. I never asked for a refund as I do want them. In reply to me venting they refunded my purchase price so now I'm back to square one, no warmers  Well not really, It's worse than square one as now I'm really mad they just brushed me off.


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## Normex

Thanks for the reply, however I would presume that all 2008 Tecumseh 11 HP engines have the same stator and that is what I was asking if anyone knew if that engine has a big enough stator output for the light + 20 watts heat warmers.

K4F this is disconcerting and sucks big time for you because if they acted this way it meant it was never shipped to begin with. Because of the low price maybe they wish half would forget or not bother as opposed to you. Has anyone on this site received an order from Lioncity? OR they just wanted to keep a good Ebay customer rating and shipped it anyway.(wishfull thinking) 
Just installed DSL and it's fast and fun (900kb/sec). Was on dial-up before.

Take Care All

Norm


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## RedOctobyr

Normex said:


> Thanks for the reply, however I would presume that all 2008 Tecumseh 11 HP engines have the same stator and that is what I was asking if anyone knew if that engine has a big enough stator output for the light + 20 watts heat warmers.


I would not presume that, myself. 

I had 2 machines with Tecumseh 8hp HMSK80 flatheads, a cheap MTD, and an Ariens ST824 (one was a '93, the other was a '94, I think). The MTD had a stator and an output for a headlight, the engine on the Ariens had nothing. 

I understand there were a few stator options for that engine. Going by memory, something like 18W AC, another higher-power option with AC & DC (for charging a battery), and maybe a higher-power AC as well (maybe for lights & hand warmers). 

A given engine (8hp Tecumseh, for instance) can be equipped differently. The exact model number (eg- HMSK80 123456) may provide more-detailed info. If nothing else, a parts list for the engine may give a part # for the stator, perhaps you could get more details on the stator that way. 



> Just installed DSL and it's fast and fun (900kb/sec). Was on dial-up before.


Nice upgrade! You're a very patient man to have been using dial-up.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Normex said:


> Thanks for the reply, however I would presume that all 2008 Tecumseh 11 HP engines have the same stator and that is what I was asking if anyone knew if that engine has a big enough stator output for the light + 20 watts heat warmers. Norm


Not even close. It might be used in a walk behind mower and have a small stator or none. Could be in a rider or a 12v starting walk behind and have regulated DC for the battery or be a "Big Gun" in a rider and operate lights, charge battery and have plenty for electric deck lift or whatever. You need to know exactly what you have.
That's why I said my 10 horse will only do a 18Watt light while my 5 horse Troy or the 8 horse Estate will do both a light and hand warmers. Just depends on the stator it came with or . . . . what you can put in there should you chose to upgrade when possible.

On the hand warmers, I'm eating crow. Yup, just came today. So they were about 31 days. Seems like I ordered them a year ago and sure enough it's been in the forties lately. Still they were four days past the latest date they said they'd arrive.


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## enigma-2

Normex said:


> Thanks for the reply, however I would presume that all 2008 Tecumseh 11 HP engines have the same stator and that is what I was asking if anyone knew if that engine has a big enough stator output for the light + 20 watts heat warmers.
> Norm


Without knowing what Tecumseh model number and specification number you have, it's not possible to state what alternator they installed as Tecumseh offered many different alternators in their product mix. 

You can find the engine model & specification number either on the top or side of the engine. The model number is broken down as follows: 
example: OVH16-204207A
OHV = overhead valve vertical
16 = horsepower
204207A = specification number used to id engine with what specific parts it was equipped with

OHH = overhead valve horizontal
OHM = overhead valve horizontal, medium frame
OHSK = overhead valve horizontal, snow king
OVM = overhead valve vertical, medium frame
OVRM = overhead valve vertical, rotary mower
OVXL = overhead valve vertical, medium frame, extra life

The serial number: example 5215C
5 = last digit in year of manufacturer ( 5 = 1995)
215 = made on 215th day of 1995 or August 3, 1995
C = production line & shift when made

Anyway, I doubt that the OEM would have paid for a larger alternator than what was needed for the product. If handwarmers had been offered as an add-on option, then yes, the alternator would have been sized in anticipation of their being added later. 

Most likely you will need to change the alternator. You could start here for ideas: Tecumseh Alternator: Yard, Garden & Outdoor Living | eBay

There's little evidence that can be comprehended just by looking at the engine to determine what size alternator was supplied. I'll give you some information and perhaps you can determine (rule out) based on the following:

Tecumseh color codes are as follows: 
yellow: alternator AC lead
red: alternator DC lead
brown: alternator DC lead
black: alternator ground lead or battery ground lead
orange: 12 volt starter B+ lead
dark green: ignition shut-off lead

As for alternators, they furnished the following over the years:

18 watt AC lighting alternator: 1-yellow lead (from engine) - (this the alternator you probably have)
35 watt AC alternator: 2-yellow & 1-green - (this is the alternator you would probably need)
2.5 amp DC (35 watt) lighting alternator: 1-brown (DC) lead
3 amp DC alternator system with diode in harness: 1-red (with diode) + 1-green
5 amp DC alternator system with regulator-rectifier under blower housing: 3-wires run to a regulator-rectifier under blower housing
3 amp DC + 5 amp AC alternator: 1-red, 1-yellow 
7 amp DC alternator with regulator-rectifier under engine housing: 1-red, 1-green 
10 amp AC alternator: 1-yellow
16 amp alternator with external regulator: 1-red (with fuse), 1-green. Unit has on-board battery & starter.

Here's another reference you could use for reference (alternators start on page 33): http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/tecumseh/Tecumseh_quick_reference.pdf


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## Normex

This is exactly what I need Egnima, many thanks and I'll reply here when I sort it 
out, right now it's too darn cold in unheated garage.

Again Thank You

Norm


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## Kiss4aFrog

The nice thing is with the engines model and series number you can see what's available and if you have enough now or if you can upgrade if you need more to run what you want to. 

I had an interesting exchange with one guy because I've always thought if someone said something like "624" it was always a 6 horse with a 24" cut. NOPE !!! At least Jacobson sold machines like 624s that could come with a 6 or 8 horse engine and still be a 624. The actual model number on the little ID tag on the machine will tell you but not the "624" designation. He said it was a 624 with an 8 horse and I was trying to correct him, silly me. I know just enough to be dangerous or embarrassing.


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## Normex

I just checked on engine and there is no ident. anywhere unless it's under a cover.
It looks like an L head since it has no OVH cover on top, only the spark plug.
I also see a yellow and red wire that follows on top of the starter going towards the hand crank.

Thanks

Norm


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## Kiss4aFrog

That's good news. The yellow should be the headlight and the red for the handwarmers !!!


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## enigma-2

Normex said:


> I just checked on engine and there is no ident. anywhere unless it's under a cover.
> It looks like an L head since it has no OVH cover on top, only the spark plug.
> I also see a yellow and red wire that follows on top of the starter going towards the hand crank.
> Thanks
> Norm


There's a copy of the Tecumseh L-head engine handbook on-line here: Tecumseh Service Manual

Page one describes where the various locations for the model number and serial number are located. Some are stamped and some are labels hidden by a cover.

Judging by your description (red+yellow) you have an AC + DC alternator. As to what amperage is still in question (however having both wires could mean that you have the 3 amp DC + 5 amp AC alternator. If so, the red wire was intended to charge a battery (may not be hooked up) and the yellow wire to power a headlight. 

If this in-fact the alternator you have, you could power the hand grips off the 5 amp yellow, if you can get the light draw down so the combo did not exceed the 60 watt rating. (On a current Ariens, I believe the hand grips are rated at 30 watts and the halogen light at 20 watts. Same alternator setup.)

Of course you could also tie into the red as it supples 36 watts and use it instead. If you were to go that route, and the diode was in the wire, I would tie in before the diode to be able to use the AC from the engine as the diode turns the AC into half-wave DC & you lose some power this way. (You only get 1/2 cycle, OK for battery charge, but unnecessary for a resistive load.)

However I would verify to be absolutely certain before proceeding.
Dennis


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## RedOctobyr

enigma-2 said:


> If this in-fact the alternator you have, you could power the hand grips off the 5 amp yellow, if you can get the light draw down so the combo did not exceed the 60 watt rating.


To reduce light power draw, if some DIY sounds fun, you could go to LED lights.


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## Normex

I appreciate very much your responses gents.I'm glad on the stator news, could it be set up this way even if I only have a 120v starter? Again as I said being too cold I'll verify later and come back here later with the results. I'm on the wait for the hand heaters. K4F did you install yours?
We are being clobbered again with another 6 to 8" and strong winds this morning. First day of spring and the tulips are saying "what the?"

Take care all

Norm


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## Kiss4aFrog

enigma-2 said:


> If this in-fact the alternator you have, you could power the hand grips off the 5 amp yellow, if you can get the light draw down so the combo did not exceed the 60 watt rating. (On a current Ariens, I believe the hand grips are rated at 30 watts and the halogen light at 20 watts. Same alternator setup.)
> 
> Of course you could also tie into the red as it supples 36 watts and use it instead. If you were to go that route, and the diode was in the wire, I would tie in before the diode to be able to use the AC from the engine as the diode turns the AC into half-wave DC & you lose some power this way. (You only get 1/2 cycle, OK for battery charge, but unnecessary for a resistive load.)
> 
> However I would verify to be absolutely certain before proceeding.
> Dennis


Well one of us is backwards and it's usually me but in this case.







The yellow on both my engines say "Headlight circuit" and the red "Hand Warmer Circuit". That would tend to make the yellow wire the 3 amp and the red the 5 amp.

On the hand warmers . . . the wires are really small gauge and I'm playing with the idea or going a size or two bigger just to make sure they supply the maximum amps the hand warmers can use. In looking at them in person it's pretty obvious why they are so cheap. I wish I had gone with the $25 per set "low/high" ones. They look to be a better quality and will supply more heat on high.


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## RIT333

My $5 ones have two heat setting. If I don't have the light on, then they run on high, and if I turn the light on, then they operate in low ! LOL

I still think that it is a great buy at $5.


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## Normex

Ok it seems I'll have to take the covers out but just a stupid question is there a possibility the engine info might be under the hand crank cover as I ask to save taking it out if not needed. I know I sound lazy but being saddled with Multiple Sclerosis makes even simple things like quadruple the normal time it takes.
So to ascertain the two wires (red & yellow) one would probe each for amps then probe for ac for the stator and dc for the alternator?

Many thanks

Norm


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## RedOctobyr

There is no real practical way to check them for amps. 

But you can set your meter to either AC volts, or DC volts, and see which you read from each wire, and the actual voltage. 

I think that's the best you'll be able to do without digging deeper.


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## Normex

Many thanks RedOct.

will report my findings


Norm


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## Normex

Good Day Everyone,
The mild temp finally allowed me to do some work on the Snowblower. First I'm very happy to report as you mentioned the red and yellow wire gives more than 12 volts each. Red DC and Yellow AC.
Then I decided to verify the unit further by removing both auger shear bolts and nothing was seized just dry, of course I put in a good doze of Fluid Film. _I also removed both wheels and these were greased on the shafts. Lastly I removed the chute to install the impeller kit. I will build it myself with conveyor belt and sheetmetal strips. Looking to be in good shape for next winter._

_Take Care All_

_Norm_


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## Normex

Hi Gents,
Looked in the mailbox and behold a package from China. Took them 3 weeks from order. K4f did you try yours as how warm they get?
Maple syrup season will be short this year as in a week or so the forecast calls for above freezing during the night.

Take Care All

norm


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## Kiss4aFrog

Looked in the package but hadn't installed them. Now that you mention it, time to hook them up to a car battery and see what they do !!!


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## Normex

Well just finished the Chinese heat grips install. Went really well and have to say they feel very warm, of course it's not minus 20 but will see.

Take Care All

Norm


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## Flexin

Now well did the hand warms do last season?

James


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## Kielbasa

I hear you loneraider. I am in the same boat. I have had the same issue for 25 years or so. The longer that you can keep your hands dry, the better. Also, the quicker you can get that blood pumping, the better off you will be. I must have toughened up the last 5 years or so because I am lucky to get away with wearing the cheapo... 3 pack... yellow or brown cotton gloves. I do find that if my blood is pumping and my gloves have gotten wet, I will be okay. 



loneraider said:


> ++++++++ on the heated grips.
> my finger tips go white when too cold
> Raynaud's Disease its called so I try to
> keep them warm as possible. When washing
> the truck I wear rubber gloves in spring or fall
> and it helps.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I usually wear the cheap brown jersey gloves and when they get really wet or my fingers get really cold it's just time to come in for a little coffee and warmth. Usually I can get it all done at once but now and then it turns into two trips out. If my fingers were getting white I think it would be time for electric gloves.

https://www.google.com/#q=electric+gloves


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## db130

For $5 dollars with shipping included, I took a chance on the eBay ones. It took 22 days to be delivered to my doorstep. My Bolens 824 has factory heated grips that no longer work so I decided to take advantage of the existing wiring. First, I got rid of the switch so that the heaters are always on (just like the original Bolens heaters) and then trimmed the wiring accordingly so that they reach the existing wires:










(I ended up trimming the ground wire much shorter after I took the first photo, but the bullet connectors that I crimped onto the positive wires and the ring terminal on the ground wire worked really well).










Here's the finished product with the heat shrink tube holding the heater elements on the bars:










They work surprisingly well and both heated up within a couple of minutes.


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## skutflut

RIT333 said:


> In case you wish you had heated hand grips, and don't - like me - I found a cheap solution on EBay. I bought a set of 12 volt heaters for motorcycle hand grips and they cost well under $5. After installing them, I found out that the alternator was strong enough to power the headlight OR the hand grips, and not both - well it would, but neither would be warm or bright enough to be worthwhile. So, when I wired it in, I installed a switch for the heated hand grips and another for the headlight. So, I can have light or heat, or neither.
> 
> Installation is easy - you wrap the electric grid around the existing handle-grip, and then cover it with heat-shrink tubing. Everything is provided except the second switch which I also bought off of EBay.
> 
> Here is a link to the kit that I bought, and after 2 seasons, it still keeps my hands warm !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rit
> 
> Did yours come with any wiring instructions? I ordered some but the instructions online are pretty vague. Sounds like they are telling me to wire the two heaters in series.
> 
> Did you wire them in series or in parallel?


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## RIT333

*Wiring HHGs*

As i recall, they were wired in parallel, but I wouldn't even bet a beer on it. Seems liek i was able to find several instruction videos on Youtube where people were installing them on their dirt bikes, etc. It has been awhile - sorry. But, they still work great !


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## chrisexv6

Sorta bringing up a dead thread but I have a question -

On my current Tec 9HP, I have the 18W lighting-only stator.

If I wanted to upgrade to the higher output stator, does the flywheel need to be changed as well?

I dont have the exact model/type number handy right now, will get it later once Im back home, but figured Id ask the question now in case its not necessary.

Thanks.

-Chris


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## skutflut

chrisexv6 said:


> Sorta bringing up a dead thread but I have a question -
> 
> On my current Tec 9HP, I have the 18W lighting-only stator.
> 
> If I wanted to upgrade to the higher output stator, does the flywheel need to be changed as well?
> 
> I dont have the exact model/type number handy right now, will get it later once Im back home, but figured Id ask the question now in case its not necessary.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Chris


For what it's worth, Briggs flywheels work with several different staters providing various power outputs. Been following a thread where a user replaced an 18 watt with a 120 watt (10 amp) stator using the same flywheel. You will have to do some research on tec engines, but I would imagine they do much the same and try to avoid making more than a few different flywheel varations


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## chrisexv6

skutflut said:


> For what it's worth, Briggs flywheels work with several different staters providing various power outputs. Been following a thread where a user replaced an 18 watt with a 120 watt (10 amp) stator using the same flywheel. You will have to do some research on tec engines, but I would imagine they do much the same and try to avoid making more than a few different flywheel varations


There are 2 flywheels that Ive found so far: 1 has 3 magnets, the other has 5 magnets.

The Tec service manual shows the different stators, but only lists one that needs "optional flywheel" so I cant say for sure.

There are a few of the red/yellow wire stators on Ebay....these are the 3 amp AC/5 amp DC setup alternators. But Im not sure if my existing flywheel (3 magnet) would work with them or not. If it WOULD, thats a great way to get enough power for the heated handlebars *and* some lighting.


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## skutflut

chrisexv6 said:


> There are 2 flywheels that Ive found so far: 1 has 3 magnets, the other has 5 magnets.
> 
> The Tec service manual shows the different stators, but only lists one that needs "optional flywheel" so I cant say for sure.
> 
> There are a few of the red/yellow wire stators on Ebay....these are the 3 amp AC/5 amp DC setup alternators. But Im not sure if my existing flywheel (3 magnet) would work with them or not. If it WOULD, thats a great way to get enough power for the heated handlebars *and* some lighting.



Briggs mentions that their flywheels have different sized magnets, large, medium and small. Not sure about the total number, but some of their stators are rated at 5 or 9 amps, depending on the magnet size on the flywheel. Too bad there isn't a simple chart from each engine mfgr showing what works with what, and more important, what does NOT work with what. The Briggs alternator chart shows lots of different stators, with some notes on each, and a bit about flywheel magnets, but is missing a bunch of more current part numbers.


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## chrisexv6

skutflut said:


> Briggs mentions that their flywheels have different sized magnets, large, medium and small. Not sure about the total number, but some of their stators are rated at 5 or 9 amps, depending on the magnet size on the flywheel. Too bad there isn't a simple chart from each engine mfgr showing what works with what, and more important, what does NOT work with what. The Briggs alternator chart shows lots of different stators, with some notes on each, and a bit about flywheel magnets, but is missing a bunch of more current part numbers.


I converted my Bolens tractor a long time ago, from one Briggs stator setup to another. There was a chart on Briggs support site that had pics (color!) of all stators and listed what flywheels worked with them. Really cool, Ill see if I can dig it up.

Unfortunately I havent found anything like that from Tec. The best I can go on is looking up the stator part number on partstree, then using the "used on these models" as a cross-ref to the engines its available with. It looks like for sure that the 3A/5A setup requires a 5 magnet flywheel, but the flywheel on my engine is a 3 magnet.

Not sure its worth the investment to get another flywheel to work with the 3A/5A stator. If my engine were brand new, sure, but by now its had 10 fairly tough snow seasons put into it.

EDIT: these are the docs I referred to when converting my electrical system -

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/~...ndStratton/PDFs/alternator_specifications.pdf

http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/alternator_id.pdf

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/~/...gsAndStratton/PDFs/alternator_replacement.pdf

The last doc has a note on page 17:

"NOTE: The AC Only, DC Only, Dual Circuit, Tri-Circuit as well as the 5 and 10 amp regulated systems use
flywheels with small alternator magnets. The 9 and 16 amp regulated systems use flywheels with the
large alternator magnets. See figure below for magnet sizes. "


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