# Sticky  Carburetor Issues . No Start , Surging. Cleaning, Rebuilding , Tips and Tricks.



## orangputeh

This question comes up all the time here. "My snowblower won't start or surges , runs rough when started " First of all use the SEARCH function to read dozens of similar threads with your problem by typing in key words in search box. There are also Brand sub forums such as Honda, Ariens, Toro etc that pertains to your machine.

In some cases and it took several years to learn this even though I have cleaned and rebuilt hundreds of carbs? ( ya , I have too ,much time on my hands)

REPLACE THE GOSH DARN CARBURETOR !!!!!!!! ( ya, family site )

you know why?

1. Cleaning usually works for us regulars but we are dealing with mostly newbies here. Newbies are just gonna make matters worse.

2. The reason 90% of these no start , surging issues is OWNER NEGLECT! old bad gas and LACK of maintenance.

3. Most residential owners are neglectful when it comes to common maintenance . They will have the same problemo every year.

so just replace the carb with a $15 chinese one every couple years.

EASY-PEASY

To AVOID these issues it's best to ALWAYS use FRESH gas treated with a gas stabilizer like Stabil or similar . Start your machines once in awhile and if it is going to sit for a spell , before putting it away from last use shut off fuel valve and let it runs until it stalls.

It shouldnt have to be said that if you have old gas in the tank , siphon or drain it out before adding fresh gas. Most carbs also have a drain plug at bottom of carb and drain that also.

We have many members here that use these techniques and have had machines for decades WITHOUT the NO START , SURGING issues.

There are plenty of great videos on You-Tube showing the best way to start a snowblower that won't start or surges. Donyboy73 is a good one for instance. Other members will post links to some of the better ones.


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## Cstanis

I second the motion


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## Oneacer

The average homeowner does not treat their gas and performs no maintenance.

The average homeowner will not have the where-with-all to replace a carburetor.

The average homeowner should actually not own a machine if they are not going to care for it.

Sadly, many average homeowners will continue to buy snowblowers (other machines as well) and neglect to care for it, run it until it does not work anymore (probably never checking oil either), and then put it out to the curb or sell it, and start the cycle all over again.

At least many of us here will reap the rewards of those results. ....


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## Cstanis

Not looking to start any arguments but do you consider people that come here with issues the average homeowner?


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## Oneacer

No, the average homeowner would have no skill or interest in repairing there machines, they just buy new ....


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## jherbicide

I agree mostly with the GOT, but I think the risk of an 'average homeowner' replacing an old carb with a new one is only slightly less risky than a proper clean job. I just think of how many times we see questions about proper linkage, overrevving, etc after a carb replacement.


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## Oneacer

That's my point, your average homeowner wont have the where-with-all to adequatly take on such a task, as they wont know to take photos, proper sequence, how to adjust, etc ... heck most will not have the tools or even the desire to do such a thing.


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## jherbicide

I'm always willing to help those that attempt though, as I started learning this stuff all by myself. Long before there were any forums or tools like this one here to help out!


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## Oneacer

For sure, as that is how the majority of us here have come to be where we are ...  We all started at some point with interest.

Its a good feeling to delve into a repair, and bring a broken, rusted piece of equipment back to its former glory.


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## orangputeh

Oneacer said:


> The average homeowner does not treat their gas and performs no maintenance.
> 
> The average homeowner will not have the where-with-all to replace a carburetor.
> 
> The average homeowner should actually not own a machine if they are not going to care for it.
> 
> Sadly, many average homeowners will continue to buy snowblowers (other machines as well) and neglect to care for it, run it until it does not work anymore (probably never checking oil either), and then put it out to the curb or sell it, and start the cycle all over again.
> 
> At least many of us here will reap the rewards of those results. ....


agree 1000%. It's just frustrating trying to help these people. I used to clean carbs for people ( In frame ). If that doesnt work I was wasting too much time removing and using an ultrasonic. It usually worked but the cost was the same or more than just plugging in a new OEM carb. Some people wanted me to use the cheaper clones and I won't due to the hit or miss nature. Usually you have to tweek tem in my experience. Some will slightly surge until the engines are warmed up.

It is a boon when people get frustrated and sell because they cant get it started. Just picked up a Honda for cheap and all it basically need other than a service was a carb cleaning. Runs perfect now. Took about 20-30 minutes and I was goofing off. ....as usual.


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## Toon

Without the average home owner there would be no "Curb Finds" and the gurus would loose their source.
Without the "Gurus", the average homeowner who is willing to learn would not benefit from this site.
I think we make a great team.😃


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## orangputeh

Toon said:


> Without the average home owner there would be no "Curb Finds" and the gurus would loose their source.
> Without the "Gurus", the average homeowner who is willing to learn would not benefit from this site.
> I think we make a great team.😃


*


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## Yanmar Ronin

We now have a 'sticky'. 🍻

Kindly post further advice/remedies/videos below.


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## dr bob

My early learning curve was not as steep as I might have liked. It sometimes took more than a few errors before some things were finally figured out. Once I took a few carburetors apart and read some about how they were supposed to work, things smoothed out though. Like disassembling and removing o-rings before dunking the carb in the soup. And taking it out of the soup in a timely fashion before the metal was damaged, and rinsing it in water then lacquer thinner. Some things, like grinding valves and doing OHV cylinder head repairs, came later under the guidance of a then old-timer who had the patience to teach a young know-it-all. Fast-forward-- We are now filling the roles that "my" old-timer did. Not many candidates these days though. Mechanical stuff should last forever without anything more than a splash of fuel once in a while. If it doesn't work anymore, just toss it and buy a new one. For children of depression-era parents, all new things were pretty expensive, and they needed to last a long time. Tools, including power tools like snow blowers, are pretty darn luxurious in the extended scheme of things. "Newer" folks lack the same appreciation, as they are born into a culture of "stuff".

In my early teens, I took a lot of pride in bringing my nice new-looking, cleaned and freshly sharpened but decade-plus old mower out in the spring, adding fresh fuel to it, and having it start on the first or -maybe- the second pull. While my neighbors stretched my vocabulary trying to get theirs to start. That alone was worth the learning curve.


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## Yanmar Ronin

Ya let's keep this one "on topic" as a help thread.

Just woke up, I'll clean up later.

Regards,


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## NOS

Carbs:

If you take a profane torch and heat up a carb body around the carb circuitry that's giving you trouble you can cook out a problem.
Its not my first choice but its been pretty effective over the years.....

A series 2 carb on a tecumseh is supposed to rattle when you shake it, that's the emulsion tube moving.
Common wisdom is once its gummed and corroded there is nothing you can do so replace it.

If you put enough heat on it to cause the gelled petroleum products to burn ( without melting the shitty high sink casting ) then you can usually wash out the rest of the problem.
I also find a dip ( low simmer in 50% water vinegar will help devolve some of the corroded shite and loosen up carbon )

Acids are oxidized metals natural enemy...
Heat fire oxygen are Petroleum products natural enemy...

Your Mileage may vary
good luck

If all else fails by a Chinese carb.
But be smart about it, buy one that for a non emissions version of the same engine you have.
Odds are the extra adjustment will make it easier to tune.

There are actually difference between carbs ( fact are stranger than fiction )
A carb for a flat head is generally drilled to run richer than for an OHV engine.
This does not mean a OHV carb will not work on a flat head, but it could mean you have a drive ability issue.
Usually this manifests as a flat spot over fueling at part throttle

The same is not so much said putting a flat head carb on an OHV engine
They might be a little richer in the mid range but its not something that will bother a snow blower..

Common wisdom is Chinese parts stink.
Well they still are not the very best at precision fits in needles and seats.
But have you seen the quality control that went into a Tecumseh product over the last 10 years before they folded up?
YIKES.
Buy the Chinese parts, use old rebuild kits from the dwindling supply of OEM Tec parts. 

That needle seat thing bother you?
Q tip and tooth paste in a cordless drill and polish it...


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## Yanmar Ronin

Chils came in and cleaned house, thanks Buddy. 🍻

Car Talk has been moved to the '57 Chevy thread.

Steady as she goes, On Topic and pertinent... much appreciated.


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## tabora

NOS said:


> If you take a profane torch


What obscenities does it utter?


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## NOS

tabora said:


> What obscenities does it utter?


I still use a 1930s C&L gasoline torch for about 75%of my work.
I could use profane gas, but way down deep inside I just like gasoline.

Believe it or not you can buy new ones.
These new Ukrainian made ones are pretty good.

You might run out of profane, but your much less likely to run out of gasoline.

















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## RCDELAWARE

Amazing how many will clean the carb but not check and clean out the jets. Neighbor last year lived with his surging machine all winter claiming he cleaned the carb a few times. When I pulled it off the jets were full of gunk. Actually, I promised his I would do a service on it before 1st snow. Better get on that next week.


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## foggysail

When I clean mine, the ONLY thing I clean is the main jet. Heck... I need to buy a set of tip cleaners but in the meantime when a cleanout is required, I take a length of copper wire (stuff is about .020'' in diameter, clamp one end in my vice and warp the other end around a stick and PULL stretching it to the diameter needed to purge the jet from crap. So far--- it works


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## orangputeh

Had a Honda hs724 that was surging. cleaned everything but the idle jet as a test. was still surging so that narrowed it down. The jet was not clogged but the tiny O ring was flat and worn. I buy 10 at a time from a racing website on ebay so changed out that little bugger and it now runs smooth.


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## Bearguy69

orangputeh said:


> This question comes up all the time here. "My snowblower won't start or surges , runs rough when started " First of all use the SEARCH function to read dozens of similar threads with your problem by typing in key words in search box. There are also Brand sub forums such as Honda, Ariens, Toro etc that pertains to your machine.
> 
> In some cases and it took several years to learn this even though I have cleaned and rebuilt hundreds of carbs? ( ya , I have too ,much time on my hands)
> 
> REPLACE THE GOSH DARN CARBURETOR !!!!!!!! ( ya, family site )
> 
> you know why?
> 
> 1. Cleaning usually works for us regulars but we are dealing with mostly newbies here. Newbies are just gonna make matters worse.
> 
> 2. The reason 90% of these no start , surging issues is OWNER NEGLECT! old bad gas and LACK of maintenance.
> 
> 3. Most residential owners are neglectful when it comes to common maintenance . They will have the same problemo every year.
> 
> so just replace the carb with a $15 chinese one every couple years.
> 
> EASY-PEASY
> 
> To AVOID these issues it's best to ALWAYS use FRESH gas treated with a gas stabilizer like Stabil or similar . Start your machines once in awhile and if it is going to sit for a spell , before putting it away from last use shut off fuel valve and let it runs until it stalls.
> 
> It shouldnt have to be said that if you have old gas in the tank , siphon or drain it out before adding fresh gas. Most carbs also have a drain plug at bottom of carb and drain that also.
> 
> We have many members here that use these techniques and have had machines for decades WITHOUT the NO START , SURGING issues.
> 
> There are plenty of great videos on You-Tube showing the best way to start a snowblower that won't start or surges. Donyboy73 is a good one for instance. Other members will post links to some of the better ones.


Even though I am new to snowblowers. I don’t think the maintenance is any different than maintaining a lawnmower or a chainsaw.
the basic maintenance is use ethanol free gas period. Then if it’s a new engine change the oil after it’s broken in basically after the first 5 hours in my mower it’s 5W30 full synthetic and I don’t think it’s much different than that for breaking in a snow blower. Then don’t store fuel over the off season period! Run it dry and make sure the carburetor bowl is dry too.
change out the oil and spark plug. It’s ready for the next season. That’s how I maintain my small engines.did I miss anything?


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## Falstaff

I don't have a logical explanation for this but I will tell you the following. I don't drain the fuel out of any of my equipment. I use high test and fuel treatment year round, not just for lay ups. I have never had an issue with anything starting after the seasonal storage. Doing this for 20+ years. When I start getting issues I'll change to the drain practice. I have a saw that I let sit for 3 years with the high octane Huskvarna fuel and stabil in it. I had planned to change the fuel in the tank prior to starting but It smelled so fresh I said to myself..... self, what the hell let me see if it fires. It did after a half dozen pulls and it ran fine. I did fog the combustion chamber on that saw and still fired surprisingly quickly. Like I wrote I have no explanation of why I'm not having issues but that's how it is. The pros here say drain at lay up and if you are unsure of what to do DO WHAT THEY RECOMMEND. 
Cheers


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