# Model 42010 diode for handlebar warmers



## baymee (Nov 10, 2018)

I have a Troy snowblower that came with handlebar heaters which stoppd working. There is a diode in the harness that converts 24 vac to 12 vdc that I think has failed. I cannot find info anywhere about that diode. The fuse is 7.5A.

Does anybody know where I can get a replacement diode or even what to look for?


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## SayItAintSnow (Dec 15, 2017)

Baymee,


Since I only have ancient snowblowing equipment with no Cadillac options like hand warmers :devil:, I'm not familiar with what the manufacturers use to rectify the a.c. into d.c. for hand warmers.


_Is it just a diode or is it a bridge rectifier?_


Since the requirements for a heater aren't too fussy (not like d.c. lights) they may have only used a single diode. The way to tell is how many connections are made to the rectifier. If there are only two (one in , one out) then it's a diode. If there are four connections, then it's a bridge. A bridge is nothing more than four diodes pre-wired up in a sealed module so that you can get a better, smoother pulsating d.c. waveform than you would with just a single diode.


If you can let me know, I can steer you to a source that will have the component you need. Even if it's a bridge, the solution will be only a couple of bucks.
...


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## baymee (Nov 10, 2018)

Thanks for the reply. Here's what I found out today. The diode in question for the Troy Bilt 42010 handlebar grips is a TCI T6A60. I am getting 30vac from the flywheel and 18VDC at the wiring to the handlebars. Each grip has its own wire and there is 18v going to each grip. Both grips stopped working at the same time. This is very strange. So now I don't suspect the diode.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

With the engine OFF I'd disconnect the components and check them for continuity. I would look at the circuit to ground especially and how clean and tight the ground is. Does the ground run back to the engine or is it just grounded to the handlebars/control panel ??
Is there a switch in the system ?? Since you're reporting voltage readings I would think it's a matter of having a complete circuit to ground. Maybe a bad connection or even a broken wire inside the insulation.

This appears to be the wiring diagram. The diode is there in case a headlight is installed. If you're a DIYer you might have some jumper cables (non-automotive) and you can try to run one from a heater black wire to ground to see if that heater then warms up. Do NOT ground one of the red wires.

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## baymee (Nov 10, 2018)

I'm going to check the ground at the motor. There is only a single red wire going to each handlebar grip.


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## baymee (Nov 10, 2018)

There is no black wire to the heaters, a single red wire to each one. I have voltage at the wire at the point it enters the handlebars. The ground was rechecked. The problem must be inside the handlebar grip, unless the wiring diagram is not for my model. I actually had two of these in my shop and they were identically wired, with only a single wire going to the grip.


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## SayItAintSnow (Dec 15, 2017)

Baymee,


Again, not having these on any of my snowblowers, I can only speculate through electronic theory. :icon_scratch:



If you are sure, there are no other wires going up to the heater modules, then obviously, the manufacturer was hoping to make the ground connection back through the handlebars, which theoretically, would be grounded by virtue of being attached to the grounded body of the blower. (Not the best idea for something that spends a lot of its life wet, producing rust and corrosion).



Since you said you have voltage going to both wires going to the heaters, and since both are not working, try something simple first:
Make up a jumper to go from the engine to somewhere near the top of the handles where you can get a good ground connection on each end. If one or both of the heaters work, then you need a better ground connection to the heaters.


You said you had 18 volts DC to each of the wires going to the heaters..... 



To me that indicates that the diodes are in the circuit BEFORE the points where you measured the voltages, since you are getting a good DC voltage--- then the diodes are o.k. as you have begun to suspect.


Can you isolate the heaters themselves from their voltage sources? (I.e. disconnect them temporarily). If so, and your meter has a resistance scale, then set the meter at the lowest ohms settings and test across the terminals of the isolated heater module. If they are o.k., you should get a very low ohms reading. If the reading is high or infinite, the modules are shot. This would be surprising that both of them are dead, but maybe that has happened over an extended period of time.


I guess then if I was at that point, being the cheapskate that I am...:devil:, I would disconnect the heaters from the blower and try them with a 12vdc source like a car battery, just to make sure they wouldn't warm up, before I decided to toss them.



.
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## baymee (Nov 10, 2018)

Thanks for the tips. I got a good understanding about handlebar warmers. As you suggested, I grounded from each handgrip directly to the motor block and with voltage at the point of entry into the bars, neither warmer works. Next, I hooked up 12v directly to the red wires and grounded at the same spot to the block. There was no completed circuit. 12V went into the red wire but didn't draw any current, so I guess the power doen't go through the grip warmer.

I'm giving up on this repair.


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## Chuckr (Nov 3, 2018)

baymee said:


> Thanks for the reply. Here's what I found out today. The diode in question for the Troy Bilt 42010 handlebar grips is a TCI T6A60. I am getting 30vac from the flywheel and 18VDC at the wiring to the handlebars. Each grip has its own wire and there is 18v going to each grip. Both grips stopped working at the same time. This is very strange. So now I don't suspect the diode.


Is that a connector I see at the handlebar(s) for the positive side? Are you able to check for voltage on the handlebar side of the connector?


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