# Toro 1132. Left drive cog slipping.



## Monatana Freeze (Jan 3, 2022)

Hello,

I have an old Toro 1132 that I am having a drive issue with one of the wheels. The drive cog on the left wheel is clicking as it slips against the wheel. As I look down between the frame and the wheel the cog assembly is not moving far enough into the wheel to fully engage. When I look at the other wheel that works the cog moves about an 1/8” further in. The model has two black knobs that you push down to engage the wheels. I adjusted the rod going down to the wheel but no difference in performance. I took the wheel off and lubed the assembly. It just not moving inward enough. Any advice is appreciated.
The machine is a pull start which pretty much kicks my 57 year old but when starting.

Thanks from Montana!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*More Than Likely It Is Worn Down. And Those Are Now NLA. Best BET Find A Donor Machine. Or Check E-BAY For That Part. Post Some Pics Also So I Can Have A Looksee. ALOHA!!!!!!!!!







*


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## asavage (Dec 20, 2021)

Take a look at the various problems ClassicCat had with his 832 wheel clutches recently. He posted good pics.

Slop in the linkage due to wrong rod/bellcrank pin, missing/worn spacer washers, and odd shimming by a PO all led to poor engagement on his; I think the wheel clutches for 826 & 1132 are the same?

The jaw clutch on the very oldest wheels are separately replaceable and come up on eBay occasionally, but the later ones like my '85 38150 are integral to the wheel, so if you let it wear enough via slipping, you end up having to replace the entire wheel. Don't run it slipping!

Take a look at that thread, he has good pics.


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## Monatana Freeze (Jan 3, 2022)

I did swap the wheel from the other side and had the same results with slipping. I’ll take a look at the other posts and see what I can come up with. I think it is probably slop in the linkage. I would be fine if the wheel was permanently engaged. It’s a heavy machine and having one wheel doing all of the work can’t be good for it.
Thanks


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

@asavage gave part of the solution...adding a shim (I used 1/8" stock) for the clutch dog to push off of. Also, if you haven't already, add washer to the outside of the wheel for the clevis pin to push-up against.



















My 826 also skipped in reverse...completely different issue: slack in the internal chain from worn axle bearing & axle (likely from the ding dong shimming under the bearing carrier instead of on top of it like I show above). My 826 now has a "new" axle & axle bearings which resolved that.

Please report back your findings.


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## asavage (Dec 20, 2021)

CC: Ah . . . I did not spot what you meant (in your original thread) 'bout the function of that; now I get it.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*A Bent Axle Shaft Might Be To Blame Also.







*


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## Monatana Freeze (Jan 3, 2022)

Success. I added a thicker washer on the outside of the wheel hub and put an 1/8 shim on the inside nub pivot point as suggested earlier. The drive wheel is no longer slipping. What a pig of a machine.

Thank you all for your suggestions.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Monatana Freeze said:


> Success. I added a thicker washer on the outside of the wheel hub and put an 1/8 shim on the inside nub pivot point as suggested earlier. The drive wheel is no longer slipping. What a pig of a machine.
> 
> Thank you all for your suggestions.


Awesome...Now you can enjoy that beast!

I/we appreciate you reporting back!


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Monatana Freeze said:


> The machine is a pull start which pretty much kicks my 57 year old but when starting.


Glad you got your problem fixed.
Regarding the hard starting - I agree they're tough if you dont get the throttle and choke just right the first/second pull. I wouldn't want to do it without electric and those components are very expensive. However, If you put a small hole in the right spot on top of the heat shield you can spray ether into the downtube of the carb intake.


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