# Toro 826



## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Looking at upgrading my snowblower. I've got a Honda HS520 that isn't really cutting it. Just inherited a mid 90's snapper medium frame, but the engine on it has some major issues. So I found this. Don't know anything about it, owner wants $400. Any advice would be appreciated. I've been looking on these forums for good recommendations, and it seems ariens and toro are the sure bets. Let me know what you think of this one.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* For this time of year that is a fair price. the machine is very clean, does not like it was used to much. so yeah GO 4 IT.*


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Thank you! Hope to check it out this morning. I've been trying to decide between this and an Ariens 1032. This seems to be cleaner, and I think it has a briggs engine in it, which I prefer. Haven't been researching long, so I've been cramming a lot into my head the last few days. The large drum style auger had me wondering which way to go, but I don't think I'm to worried about it now. Hopefully there won't be any problems when I see it.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Either would be a good machine..... but I paid $225 for a real nice Ariens 1032 last year...... so, I think I'd lean that way for no more than 300 IMHO.


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## markd (Oct 29, 2014)

Looks to be in very good condition. The drum auger is very strong and stops the machine from ingesting too much snow (when machine starts to wiggle back and forth you have to back off a little). That is a Briggs on there and it has an elec starter. I would check the auger gear box for leaks and also the impeller to see if there is any play in the bearing. If everything on the machine is working OK, I think it is an OK deal.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

That Toro has wheel clutches controlled by a push/pull rod on each side to help turn the machine around.


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## The Q (Dec 19, 2016)

Offer $300 and see if he will come down some.


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Thanks for the tips. The 1032 available locally is asking for $550. It's probably worth it, but this looks like the better deal. And I'm not sure I need a full 32" cleaning path. There is also a very nice old John Deere 826 that I would think about, but he's asking $650, which seems way out of line. 

I know I'll be seeing this one in the flesh so I'll answer this on my own later, but the bars on this thing look like they are really low and pointing down. I know that's how they're supposed to be, but I'm wondering how I'm going to fit with it. I'm 6'6". I've watched a few youtube videos, and looks like the operators are hunched over a bit holding onto things. I've been this tall for a long time, so I'll get used to anything. Just curious if anybody has any experience with this "problem":biggrin:

Definitely planning on offering $300 if all is well and go from there.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

toro 826 
model 38150 
briggs powered 190402
just sold mine a couple weeks ago


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Awesome machine especially with the Briggs...powerful, smooth-running engines. +3 in trying to get the seller down a little however 300-400 isn't unreasonable for a running, full-functioning commercial-grade machine IMHO.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I have that same model Toro that I refurbished last year....just waiting for snow in New England to sell it. I wouldn't let mine go for less then $350, and even though I put a lot of time and effort into the redo ( valve job, new carb, new points and condenser,sanding and painting,new skids etc) I would say that the condition of that Toro makes it worth considerably more. The only thing I didn't like about the design of that Toro was the intricacy of the clutches to help turn it.....a lot of little parts to maybe fail....or freeze up.


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Well, I came home with it. It looked very clean in person. I can tell that the carb needs rebuilt for sure. Also, the starter recoil only engages when it wants to. I thought those two things were trivial. Hoping I didn't just purchase a pile of problems. Auger and impeller seem tight and no horrible noises while in operation. 

One question for starters. The two "levers" or "paddles" on the handlebars are disconnected. They appear to be safety devices intended to kill the engine if they are not held to the bar. Is that correct? If so, they are totally disconnected. So the key and the levers serve no function at the moment. I'm guessing this is somewhat common, and to be honest I'm happy with that particular modification. 

There is one issue that I decided to overlook for the moment, but I'm hoping you don't tell me I made a big mistake... The transmission seems to work fine, but the reverse gear only stays engaged if I hold it in reverse. Is this normal, or is there something amiss here? I felt the drive system on these is so simple that if it's not normal, the problem should be easy to fix. Please advise me further.

Also, I just sat down and haven't scoured the forum yet, but I would like to do some preventative maintenance right now before I use it to hopefully avoid any future problems. I need to know what to look for. I plan to take the auger apart, and if it's not to much trouble, take a look inside the gear box. I can't imagine it's that big of a deal, but I'd like to see if everything is looking good, rather than just shoot some grease in and hope for the best. In other words, I would enjoy taking it apart just to see how it works, as well as check on it's overall health.

If there is a thread on here that addresses most if not all of these things, please let me know. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel. I'll be doing my own research as well, but have 2 kids at the house on Christmas Break. So as much as I'd like to sit on the computer right now, I should probably spend some time with the family first.

I'll get some pictures posted up when I get an opportunity.

The plan is to get it in tip top shape for this winter season, then tear it down and make it look pretty this summer.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Do yourself a favor and download a manual for it. Sounds like you have to work through it a bit to get things going. The levers on the handle bars are to engage either the auger or the wheels. Also, when it's is a gear, it should hold/stay in that gear. Looks like you need to be sure that the drive disk is clean and adjusted properly as a first thing. you will have to unbolt the bottom of the trans pan and see what things look like. Good video's on youtube that Donnyboy has posted on lots of things and how to's.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Those older Toro blowers had a safety system that relied on a bunch of micro switches that would kill the ignition if you let go of one of the handles. Most people disconnect them when the give trouble, but I always spend way more time then it's worth with a multimeter figuring which switch is bad. If everything is good, the problem is usually with the interface module on the block. I had to replace two last year.


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

I'll definitely get a manual for it. The two levers on the bars only have electrical wires going to them, so I'm pretty sure they are just safety devices. The tranny does stay in gear with the forward speeds, just not in reverse. So I'm sure your right, a slight adjustment is probably necessary. 

Thank you all for the help. I'll keep this thread going as I go through the new toy.


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Unfortunately the manual is not available online. If anybody has a source for one I'd love to hear about it. The parts list is available, so I'm confident that I can figure everything out from there, but a manual is never a bad thing to have either.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I think you have to hold it in reverse......kind of another safety thing.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

rack, You'll likely be interested in this part of the machine eventually:icon_smile_wink: That metal spring steel "tab" and proper lubrication seem to be the focal points to keep the system working (3rd and 4th pics)
Wish you good luck with that fine looking old girl.


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Thanks for the tip. I did check to make sure each wheel disconnect worked properly before buying. To be honest, this was a selling point to me. I think it's pretty smart. Even though it is a wear item, I don't see it wearing out to quickly. I like manually locking and unlocking the wheels, vs an automatic style. Less convenient, but I see it as easier to fix down the road. I was hoping to download a manual to see how to properly lubricate them (and the rest of the machine). I'm sure it's in here on the forum someplace. 

I have a question though. What is the difference between my early 80's 826 and the older 70's models? I looked through the photo history sticky and it looks like they are more or less identical. Just curious.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

I think I have and owners manual for the 826 on my computer, pm me your email address and i'll get it to you


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Forgot, on the reverse question. My old JD 826 had to be held in reverse also, there was no "notch" to keep the handle/lever there. No idea if that's correct for the Toro, but sounds right for the era. JD also had "flappers" on the handle to assume operator presence/deadman handle. There was also a safety "control" module they were wired to. The module was like $90 so the flappers were grounded to the handlebars and I never missed them:icon-embarrassed:


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

rack, here is a link to the Toro 2-stage service manual courtesy of an SBF moderator (Shryp). It should help with most of your maintenance questions.

http://shryp.ashendust.com/Snowblowers/2stagdrv.pdf

Here is another link to the Briggs flat head service manual to help with engine related questions.

Manual-


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

with the toro service manual, the briggs service manual, and the owners manual I emailed him he should be good to go


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

You guys are awesome! Thank you.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Congrats on getting the machine! I'm pretty confident that you'll have zero regrets!

The micro-switches & harness are pretty robust items. The interlock module (the thingy that grounds the ignition) is not. 

Double check the parts list for your machine... this might fit the bill if you're intent on getting the safety interlocks working.

Toro Interlock Module for sale


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

I'm not planning on utilizing the safety interlocks, but thank you for the link. 

Well, I just posted in the repower section about my thoughts on possibly putting a predator on this thing, but I'm still leaning towards getting this thing running well and see what I think about the performance before committing to changing anything. If I can get this Briggs to purr without major work, I'd like to keep it right where it's at. I just don't want an engine I'm constantly fiddling with. 

I watched the video on how to clean the carb, which is extremely easy. Because I don't have a rebuild kit with gaskets handy I didn't want to totally remove it, so I just took out the emulsion tube and main jet. The main jet definitely needs to be replaced. Somebody screwed it in so tight that it has a groove around where it sits in the emulsion tube. I cleaned it up as best I could and got the emulsion tube nice and clean just to see what that would do for it. The tube had a lot of build up inside it. This really cleaned up how it ran. Finally got the revs up and made some power without having the choke on, so a full carb rebuild will hopefully make it run even better. 

One problem I encountered after running it through some hard snow on the road when I took it for a test run, was it would make it about a halfway down the block and then just die. After dying, it would not start for at least a minute or two. When it starts back up it runs exactly how it did before. From what I've read here, it sounds like I might need a new ignition. Does that sound correct? I've mostly ruled out the fuel, because the tank is clean, but I have not checked the inline filter. 

If it is the ignition, I know there is a magnetron digital ignition available to replace the points type ignition. Any opinions on this would be appreciated.

Haven't done much else with it yet. Tried to straighten out the auger blades in a couple of spots and that's about it.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

change the fuel filter first, I had no problems with the points on mine


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## 762mm (Dec 22, 2014)

markd said:


> Looks to be in very good condition. The drum auger is very strong and stops the machine from ingesting too much snow (when machine starts to wiggle back and forth you have to back off a little). That is a Briggs on there and it has an elec starter. I would *check the auger gear box for leaks* and also the impeller to see if there is any play in the bearing. If everything on the machine is working OK, I think it is an OK deal.


I have a similar Toro 826 and the gear box was indeed leaking when I got it. I was about to dismantle the gear box and change the seals, but decided to try tightening the gear box bolts first... what would you know, the bottom ones were so loose you could turn them by hand! After re-tightening everything, no more leak!



That being said, a LOT of bolts on my Toro 826 have come loose, some of them I've lost in the snow. I don't know why that is, but I figure they might be getting loose over time with vibrations from the engine / impeller? The gear box, bottom cover, handles and a few other areas had loose bolts that I've been re-tightening in the last couple of years. Seems like a good candidate for thread locker, lol! That being said, I love my Toro 826... it's a tank!

:blowerhug:


As for the reverse issue, mine also has to be held back in reverse to back up the machine and a spring pops it back to neutral as soon as it's released. I suppose it's a safety mechanism so you don't run yourself over, haha...


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

i upgraded the ignition on my 7hp briggs.

the quality of spark improved dramatically.

it might also be starving for fuel...either fuel line/filter restriction or a carb issue.

Man I hope you don't give up on this old iron!


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Just ordered up a carb kit for it. I'll replace the filter and fuel lines and take the carb apart to make sure I don't need a float too.

I didn't see any leaking from the gearbox, but I need to check it to see if it's looking good. I think it's going to be OK though. When I was straightening out the blades I removed the drive belts, which are both shot. I could spin the impeller simply by rotating the auger barrels. So it's definitely not binding up. There is no play in the impeller bearing. I really don't think this thing had been run much. The idlers still have most of the paint on them. Other than the blades being a little banged up I think it will polish up nicely.

I'll take your advice and check all the bolts/nuts that I can find so I don't lose anything.

Also picked up two Gates PoweRated belts for it from O'Reilly's. They're rated 4L for farm and garden implements, so they should work fine. Still have to take the starter recoil off to see what's going on in there. I'm guessing there's a bit of dirt holding things up in there. Hoping it will be an easy fix.


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## JerryD (Jan 19, 2014)

rack said:


> I'll definitely get a manual for it. The two levers on the bars only have electrical wires going to them, so I'm pretty sure they are just safety devices. The tranny does stay in gear with the forward speeds, just not in reverse. So I'm sure your right, a slight adjustment is probably necessary.
> 
> Thank you all for the help. I'll keep this thread going as I go through the new toy.



There is nothing wrong with the way the gear selector works....You will have to hold it in reverse. When the levers/paddles on the handlebars are hooked up and functioning properly, one must be held down whenever the auger/impeller is engaged or the machine will shut down. 
Wait for the snow and go out and show these newer machines how to move snow and enjoy doing it!


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Good news on the recoil. The ball bearings were stuck in their respective slots when I removed the mechanism. It worked out well, as I didn't have to worry about bearings rolling all over the floor. There was a very light residue of some grease or oil that had spit out from the shaft, so I just cleaned it up with a little brake cleaner and put it back together. Now it works perfectly. 

Just have to run down to pick up a new starter rope and reassemble it. I cut it off, because the spring was fighting to rewind the rope. I took off the winding assembly to clean up the spring and get it working freely. Now for the fun of rewinding the spring and getting the correct tension. Any quick advice on the best starter rope while I'm replacing it? I was thinking about going down to get high quality snowmobile recoil cord. That's what I used for my sled because it's a lot more durable. Probably complete overkill for this application, but this is a tougher application pulling against the 4 stroke compression than a snowmobile rope will ever see. I'll have to see if it's the same thickness.


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Picked up some rope from the local Honda dealer. Of course, lost one of the tiny nuts for the recoil housing bolt. Doh! Hope to find one at the local hardware store or home cheapo


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GMorning Gents, +3 on the Reverse...I agree with all above. The reverse has to be held, so God forbid you slip going backwards (or get backed into a wall), it will pop back to neutral. I sell quite a few of these older Toro's, and make SURE all the safeties work. I don't need some homeowner running over the kids!!!! I agree with CranMan, in all the Toro's I'v sold/repaired, the Cut-Off Module (The Most Expensive Part of the Safeties) is usually at fault. I've only seen 1 micro switch go bad. The Dead-Man handle is effective. I've worked on customer machines that have been 'Doctored'.....VERY UNSAFE. Theoretically, because of the Auger engagement lever, it would be possible for the machine to run away with the auger on and eating everything in it's path, with the system by-passed. I've found it's quicker, easier, cheaper and DEFINITELY SAFER, to repair it properly. They are quick and powerful, much like the old Ariens. GLuck and B Safe, Jay


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Just an update, but I just got the carburetor back together and put back on the engine. Changed the oil and belts, and the engine is running great now. Took it for a test drive through some extremely crusty/icy snow that was piled up on the side of the road. It went right through it, other than riding up a bit on the ice that is building up on the road. So far I'm very happy. 

I'm definitely thinking I'd like to have taller handlebars, so I'm going to see what I can come up with. If I could just bend the bars up so they are level with the ground it would be just about perfect, but the chrome isn't going to like that. I might bend up some custom bars that fit me. That's the one thing the newer throwers have that I like/need.

On the safety interlocks, I'll be looking at them when I get a chance. Right now I'm focusing on getting it functioning well for any upcoming storms, and will just excersize caution while operating it. 

Also going to do the impeller rubber modification. I have a drift next to the house that is about 2 feet deep. It cut right through, but would only throw the snow a couple feet unless I slowed way down by putting it in and out of first gear as I went. I'm new to 2 stage throwers, but I'm guessing this is absolutely normal. I just think it can do better. It never clogged and didn't even think about bogging down so I think making the monster impeller more efficient will make a huge difference. I'm loving the 8 horse engine.

I haven't even opened up the drive train yet. Going to open it up tonight and check things out under there. It's working great now, so I'm not expecting any surprises. 

My job takes me away from home a lot, so I'm having to nibble away at the tasks as I can get to them.


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Thanks to all that have tried to help me, but I ended up selling the blower. I got it running, but I just found it was kind of a pain to use. The biggest problem is that I'm 6'6" and I just didn't care for having to hunch over to use the thing. I would have to extend the bars, and then extend all the controls... and it just wasn't worth doing that. It did work well though, just think I want something with higher bars and is easier to move around. 

My only experience with 2 stage blowers, so I'm learning as I go. I would have kept my single stage honda, but it wasn't good for making a path through the lawn and down the alley to the garbage can. And my dad has a bad hip, and I've been trying to get him to get a good single stage blower for years. He finally relented and said he wanted a brand new toro single stage. I told him I'd save him some money and sell him mine. Great for him, but now I'm with no blower!

Anyway, thanks for the help. Now on to figure out what to get now. Where I'm at in the country there is not a lot available within a couple hour drive, Might have to buy new and bite the financial bullet.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*AT 6ft 6inches you are going to have a hard time finding anything that fits right. if you live out in the sticks find some thing you can ride on, or get a plow truck. I am 6 ft and I still have to stoop down on "SR" because his handles are low to the ground also. the funny thing is when they designed them the average person was about 5ft 6-8 inches tall. they kinda overlooked the big boys.:facepalm_zpsdj194qhk:k:k:k:*


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

They definitely weren't thinking about us tall guys. I knew going in that I would have to deal with the issue, but I didn't expect it to be so bad with this particular blower. The bars are very low, which is a problem, but the worst part was the controls are mounted lower on the front. Even the newer 824 series from the late 80's would probably be better just because the controls are mounted on the top in front of the bars. Lesson learned that I need to be more finicky about how it fits me. 

The newer designs are definitely better, so I think I'll be fine. I'm not necessarily in the sticks, but I am in small town rural America with no big population centers nearby. Things pop up occasionally, but I don't really want to wait. The worst part of the year is the next couple of months for snow, and I would like to get outfitted before the spring snows hit. I'm perfectly capable of shoveling, but I don't always have a lot of time. My wife is only 5'1", and I don't like her going out and doing the shoveling while I'm away... which is a lot. My job is on-call 24-7, and requires me to leave home everytime I'm called for at least a day and a half. I got the single stage honda in the hopes that she would use it while I'm away, but she is not interested in power equipment. 

I'm wanting to get something now that I'll have for the rest of my days, when I'm old and don't want to shovel anymore. At least that's the plan. I see quality going downhill, so I would like to get something new or in good shape now that I can maintain for the future. I don't see the trend for lower quality ending any time soon. It looks like I'm going to look at models that are significantly newer, since they are designed a little more for the taller guys. Not perfect, but a lot better than the 80's I guess.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I agree with Powershift......I'm 6' and haven't found a blower that I didn't have to stoop some yet.....


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

You're absolutely right, but the bars on the old Toro are definitely lower than other models I've tried. I was given an old snapper 724 that the motor grenaded on, and it actually isn't that bad. The chute crank is up on the"dash" where it's easy to reach, and the bars are actually up far enough that it isn't bad to stand behind. Unfortunately, finding an old twin shaft engine for it is more expensive than it's worth. I've checked every small engine shop in the area, and they all laugh when I tell them what I need. eBay has a couple, but prices are a little steep. Would rather get a better blower than go that route. And it's pretty light duty. But it does give me knowledge that I can do better. Getting something with the controls on top is the ticket for me, from what I experienced with this 826


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

I forgot to mention one other thing that inspired me to get this in the first place. I looked at powershifts garage and saw the rebuild he did of SR. I THINK IT'S A THING OF BEAUTY. I truly wanted to go the same route with this one, right down to the all black color scheme. Had big plans. Oh well.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*You never know what I will pull out of the old swag bag here in the paradise city.:icon_whistling::icon_whistling: This 1 here might just become the 3rd BROTHER OF DESTRUCTION!!!!!!!!! https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/grd/5950626921.html *


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Powershift......that would be a worthy addition to the Brothers.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GEvening rack, I just took a Yard King (aka, Murray/NOMA/Brute) 10/29 in trade. Of all the machines I have here, these styles of machines have the highest handle bars by far. I've also seen these sold as Craftsmans too. Of course, they are probly 10/12 years 'Old' when I get them, but reconditioned when sold. this model has all the controls up top, other than then chute control. But that could easily be outfitted with an electric motor, with switches run by thumb controls. I've sold at least 6 of these this year and they are solid. Have Tecumseh Engines on them. Kinda shaped like a new Snapper, the now parent company. Those newer Snappers seem to have more problems than the older, heritage units, but something you may want to look at, size wise. Worth a look anyway. GLuck, Jay


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## rack (Dec 15, 2016)

Jayz, thanks for the tip! I may start another thread in the general forum on this topic... See what everybody has to say.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

cranman said:


> Powershift......that would be a worthy addition to the Brothers.


* I think so.*


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## 38racing (Feb 19, 2014)

Grunt said:


> rack, here is a link to the Toro 2-stage service manual courtesy of an SBF moderator (Shryp). It should help with most of your maintenance questions.
> 
> http://shryp.ashendust.com/Snowblowers/2stagdrv.pdf
> 
> ...


the drive manual doesn't seem to cover the 38150 and 38160 style of drive.


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## 38racing (Feb 19, 2014)

jtclays said:


> rack, You'll likely be interested in this part of the machine eventually:icon_smile_wink: That metal spring steel "tab" and proper lubrication seem to be the focal points to keep the system working (3rd and 4th pics)
> Wish you good luck with that fine looking old girl.


any chance of a picture of the inside where the clutch rod attaches to that tabby piece?


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## treysoucie (Jan 15, 2018)

rack said:


> Just ordered up a carb kit for it. I'll replace the filter and fuel lines and take the carb apart to make sure I don't need a float too.
> 
> I didn't see any leaking from the gearbox, but I need to check it to see if it's looking good. I think it's going to be OK though. When I was straightening out the blades I removed the drive belts, which are both shot. I could spin the impeller simply by rotating the auger barrels. So it's definitely not binding up. There is no play in the impeller bearing. I really don't think this thing had been run much. The idlers still have most of the paint on them. Other than the blades being a little banged up I think it will polish up nicely.
> 
> ...


Did you get an OEM rebuild kit or aftermarket? Im having a heck of a time finding the correct OEM rebuild kit for this carb. engine No. 190402 0989-01


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