# Honda HS928 Carb adjustment



## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

Hi all... Hoping someone can help me out.

I just installed a new OEM carb (directly from Honda) on my HS928. It will start up just fine but I cant say that it is runng correctly. If I accelerate it quickly it will stutter and sometimes back fire. I also notice that when it is running at full speed that it doesnt seem to have as much power as it used to. I have tried playing around with the screws on the carb, but nothing seems to make a difference. I am sure it is just a matter of having them all set correctly, but I cant find anything online that will show me what to do.

Any help appreciated! Thanks


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

What was it doing before the carb replacement?


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

deleted as it was a dup...


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Yours is a Type BE carburetor. Start here (page 64, section 3-50): http://www.ipspower.com/images/docu...buretor-Troubleshooting-Manual-Compressed.pdf


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

tabora said:


> Yours is a Type BE carburetor. Start here: http://www.ipspower.com/images/docu...buretor-Troubleshooting-Manual-Compressed.pdf


That's a super useful document. Thanks for posting....right up there with the flow chart document.


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## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

Hi, the engine was running perfectly, no problems. But I could not get the card to stop leaking. I ordered the rebuild kit and replaced all of the gaskets, It still leaked, must have been a small hairline crack in the body somewhere, not sure. So I ordered a new carb.


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## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

Thanks, I will take a look at the link


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## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

It keeps referring back to "apprpriate shop manual" for number of turns required for different screws, etc... Is this online somewhere?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

i would check choke adjustment. you have to remove air box.

"messing with carb screws " does not bode well.......


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

giovanni1 said:


> It keeps referring back to "apprpriate shop manual" for number of turns required for different screws, etc... Is this online somewhere?


HS928 Carburetor adjustment
1. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature.
2. With the engine idling, turn the pilot screw in or out to the setting that produces the highest idle rpm.
The correct setting will usually be: 2 to 2 l/2 turns out; CAUTION: Do not tighten the pilot screw against its seat; this will damage the. pilot screw or seat.








3. After the pilot screw is correctly adjusted, turn the throttle stop screw to obtain the standard idle speed: 2,000-2,200 rpm.


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## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

OK, I will have to give it a try.

any advice on the other screws mentioned?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

tabora said:


> HS928 Carburetor adjustment
> 1. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature.
> 2. With the engine idling, turn the pilot screw in or out to the setting that produces the highest idle rpm.
> The correct setting will usually be: 2 to 2 l/2 turns out; CAUTION: Do not tighten the pilot screw against its seat; this will damage the. pilot screw or seat.
> ...


he may have a limiter cap on that air/fuel mixture screw. It is set at factory.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

There should be 2 adjustment screws up under the gas tank near the air cleaner housing that allows you to adjust the governor speed and choke setting.
You want to get a service manual that shows you how to adjust them.
The 1 will adjust your top speed to let you speed it up or slow it down. You might have to speed it up a little bit if you are a little down on power.
The only fuel adjustment screw is the Idle mixture screw that controls how much fuel the engine gets at idle, but if it is too lean, it will stumble, hesitate and backfire when you quickly accelerate it until it gets up to speed.


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## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

ST1100A, you mention the 'idle screw', there is no mention of that screw in the earlier link (posted above). Is this the same as the pilot screw?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

giovanni1 said:


> ST1100A, you mention the 'idle screw', there is no mention of that screw in the earlier link (posted above). Is this the same as the pilot screw?


The idle stop screw is the second one visible in the diagram, up and to the right of the pilot screw.


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## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

Hi, had some time this morning, and the temperature in southern Ontario was cooperating (just about freezing mark) so I decided to give your suggestions a try. I set the pilot screw all the way in gently and then backed it out 2.5 turns. Idle increased slightly. Then i played around with the idle stop screw until i felt the low rpm was decent. Not having a guage to measure the rpm does not help. But it does seem to accelreate better, without hesitation. The only thing I did notice is that when the accelrator is brought back to the 'slow' position that there is a bit of back firing if you want to call it that, not sure. But overall seems to run better. I will have to wait for some more snow to see how it performs power wise.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Not sure, but I think that backfire may indicate you are running a bit lean. Try running a little more rich, and see if it goes away.


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## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

Pilot screw...counterclockwise...got it, will give it a try.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Only do 1/4 turn at a time, and give it about ,15 seconds to take effect.


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## giovanni1 (Oct 4, 2020)

Hi all, I went through the procedure and seems to run fine. Now, if we could only get some snow I could try it out under load! Fingers crossed.....I think.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

giovanni1 said:


> Hi all, I went through the procedure and seems to run fine. Now, if we could only get some snow I could try it out under load! Fingers crossed.....I think.


if you are speaking of the fuel air mixture screw on most 928's there is a limiter cap so that owners can not mess with the factory settings.

if there is no cap present , then i unscrew off all the way and clean the passage when doing a carb cleaning either inframe or off and apart for the ultrasonic cleaner.

not exactly sure what the proper setting is for this screw ( means I would have to check shop manual ) but I think it is turn clockwise all the way until it stops and then back out either 2.5 turns or 2.75 turns. This is the factory setting.

I have seen people break the limiter cap off trying to adjust and then you have to buy a new screw ( about $17 ). I dont know why people do this unless to remove and clean a clogged passage perhaps.

I have read that to remove cap , heat the end so that it melts the glue and then pull off. I have never tried this. perhaps will try with one of my parts carbs.

I believe @tabora put all Honda carburetor adjustments in the Honda repository.( sticky ) The main ones are RPM settings for idle and fast throttle and choke adjustment.

if this carb still gives you fits , I highly recommend taking it completely off and cleaning properly. An OEM Honda carb is much better to keep than replace with a cheap clone.

( have not read every post )

This is by far my MOST common repair after a no start issue when owners 'mess" with their carbs and make matters worse.

This is when you should own the Honda shop manual for step by step trouble-shooting.


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