# Identify a 1980's model



## ot1

Can anone help me identify this Craftsman snowblower?

Tecumseh engine (unknown HP)
28" width, measured from edge to edge of the housing
20 years old or more
2 stage
4 foward speeds (lever moves left to right)
1 reverse speed (lever moves down to engage)
electric start
says "Sears II" on the black upper control plate
has another control knob lever which is the "Impeller Drive Control"
and a power clutch lever "Depress slowly to drive, release before changing impeller drive control"

I need the model number so I can hopefully get a cable for it.


----------



## sscotsman

Sorry ot, but we need more info than that..
you just described at least 50% of Craftsman snowblowers from the 80's..
dozens of different models could have those specs..

any chance you can post a photo of it?
and have you gone over every square inch of it looking for model numbers?
sometimes they can be found in odd locations..

most common place is at the rear of the machine..
Does the Tecumseh engine have a tag on the side of it?
like this?










(yes that an Ariens, not a Craftsman, but the Tecumseh engine tag would be in the same place)

If you can find Tecumseh numbers, post those numbers..(all of them)
Tecumseh serial numbers contain a date code..we could determine the model year of the engine, which would most likely determine the model year of the snowblower, which would be a useful clue to finding the true identity of the snowblower..

Scot


----------



## td5771

he is right, just a photo would help tremendously. color shape size all could narrow down the year


----------



## ot1

Hi, Thank you for the help. The frame/chassis had been repainted, but my GF spotted and area where the label might be, and some fingernail scratching revealed 536.882602 !!

So I would like to find a owners manual in PDF.
Searspartsdirect has an assembly drawing.


----------



## ot1

The cable needed is 56010, Is this snowblower mfg by Murray?


----------



## HCBPH

*Parts & Manual*



ot1 said:


> Hi, Thank you for the help. The frame/chassis had been repainted, but my GF spotted and area where the label might be, and some fingernail scratching revealed 536.882602 !!
> 
> So I would like to find a owners manual in PDF.
> Searspartsdirect has an assembly drawing.


OT1

I have a pdf of a manual that should cover most of your machine, if not all. The same machines were sold with different color schemes and model numbers but the parts are the same. PM me your email and I'll get it out in the next couple of days.

On your cable, you won't get that through Sears, but all is not lost. Check out: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...nce-forum/584-alternate-substitute-parts.html
You'll find some options there. Also check McMaster-Carr for replacement ends. Some chute cables will also work, check with your local parts supplier for what they carry. I'm using one on a comparable machine but I don't know what it came from. This is the end being referenced:








For bushing options on the axel and auger, check out: http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ance-forum/570-plastic-bushings-bearings.html

One suggestion - check that step bolts on the intermediate shaft (that's the one the transmission bolts onto). If they work loose, it can damage the transmission mounts. Simply insure they're snug and pin the heads of the step bolts with a screw, rivot and bracket through the outside of the tractor unit, something just to keep them from working loose. That's all it takes to keep it from loosening and damaging parts. If it already has had damage, I make a repair kit that will put the machine back into operation most times.

You can also look at my thread on modding a 10 HP Craftsman, you'll see alot of similarity to your machine there. Pretty much all 7 HP and above machines of that style are virtually identical under the covers from what I've seen. Right now I have 2 (a 7 HP and a 10 HP) of the larger chassis along with 4 of the small frame and one 7 HP frictiondrive and the transmission ones are beasts. Personally I think they're heavier than the friction drive ones but that's a close second. Admittedly I am prejudiced but when I find something I like, I like to stick with it.

Hope that helps.

Paul

PS - AFAIK all the Craftsman showblowers with the Tecumseh Peerless transmissions in them were built by Murray.


----------



## ot1

I PMed you Paul.

I am not sure of the cable name, as the Sears parts direct only lists it as "cable".
It is the cable that goes to the lever on the right hand grip. What would this cable be called?


----------



## HCBPH

*Cable*



ot1 said:


> I PMed you Paul.
> 
> I am not sure of the cable name, as the Sears parts direct only lists it as "cable". It is the cable that goes to the lever on the right hand grip. What would this cable be called?


PDF of the manual is on the way. The parts lists calls it a Power Clutch cable. 45964 is the part number but Sears lists it as no longer available.
Here's one that had a repair on the handle end due to a break in the lead of the hook and how I salvaged it (making a clevise to catch the handle end of the cable was easier and cheaper than tracking down and buying a new cable for this machine).








The bottom end has a loop on it that that small shaft fits through, which in turn engages the drive and/or auger








Now take a close look at the cable on the chute housing here








The one I have has comparable ends on it. Not every cable for chutes will have the right length or ends but there are some out there that will work in place of the one that engages the drive & auger. Take your original one to some place that does small engine work on mowers and snowblowers and see what they have. If you can't find something there, check places that do bicycles, motorcycles or ATV's. Some may have something or be able to make one up for you. There's also the option of getting new ends from a place like McMaster-Carr and either fixing your existing cable or getting a new length of cable (bike shop, cycle shops etc) and 'roll your own' using your original sheathing and a new loop end on the bottom and something like a cable stop and a clevise on the top end. 

Good luck


----------

