# front mounted tractor blowers



## tofer76 (Mar 27, 2011)

well as I didn't see a thread dedicated to tractors w front mounted blowers I will ask this here,
I have a poulan lawn tractor ,13.5hp B&S, 5sp, manual PTO with a front mounted 2 stage blower on it and even in first gear it seems to overfeed the blower.
I have to ride the clutch the whole time

so im looking into alt tractors and wondering if it would be better to get 

1. tractor with a hydrostat and 15+ hp engine or
2. tractor with auto drive (like the 600 series mtd's) 

I have a yard man with the auto drive that I use to mow in the summer with it has a 22hp twin B&S 
it has the pedal that it goes faster as you push it down (opposite of a normal clutch drive)

the blower is a craftsman and has the mtd fast attach setup so im wanting to stay with that but would a hydro be better? can vari speed and direction faster 
opinions please???


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I have to let you know that 99.99% of the forum membership here uses walk behind blowers. We would gladly help you with your question but I for one, am very sorry that I can't be of much help. I have had a front mounted two stage blower but it was being powerd by a J. D. 332 Diesel w/hydrostat and nothing stopped it. If you are having to constantly ride the clutch you might try to run it at maybe only 80% auger capacity instead of the full amount. Be sure to double check belt tension too.


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## tofer76 (Mar 27, 2011)

80%? how ? by not taking a full path? it does do a bit better that way but id like to run at full capacity. if first gear was 30% slower than it is it would be fine 


why no tractor powered machines around here? seems that would be a logical thing to have in the arsonal


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

I have a tractor mounted blower that I use from time to time, like last night.

Mine is 16 HP / 36 inch single stage hydrostatic drive and it moves a lot of snow in a hurry. If we're into very wet or very deep snow I prefer to run a walk behind machine but with the hydrostatic I can pretty much make it move anything. 

You don't say what width your present attachment is but with 13.5 HP to work with you're underpowered since I'm sure it's 30 inches or greater in width.

A lot of people don't have enough property to make practical use of a tractor attachment. As you probably know it amounts to driving a small car around the yard with an overhung load in the front no less. If the snow is deep you need to clear dead ends just to turn around or run back and forth. I like mine for moderate snowfalls when time is of the essence but I can do a nicer job with a walk behind. For instance where the attachment floats with it's own weight I can manage the cutter bar action of a walk behind .

What's auto drive" some variation of CVT? Unless you really go big you do want a tractor with infinitely variable ground speed control.

Pete


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## Colored Eggs (Dec 7, 2012)

tofer76. 13.5 is probably under powered for what you are trying to move. You didn't really specify the size of the blower or how much and what type of snow you were blowing. There are actually walk behind snowblowers that use 13 hp engines to move snow and to propel it. You will probably be loosing a few horsepower moving the larger mower and also the rider which can cause it to be even more under powered. Hydrostatic drive is the top of the line but can also increase costs and repairs. the auto drive sounds interesting and similar to hydrostatic but probably at a cheaper price. If your looking for something that will last I would go to a dealership. Anything sold at big box stores is not meant to last. The snowblowers cause excessive wear to the front of the machines and I have heard of front axles snapping due to the weight. this is however on cheap models like the Lowes brand John Deere etc and Mtds. I would ask for a Garden Tractor instead of a Regular lawn mower as they are usually built heavier and come with more features. My family own a John Deere 322 Garden tractor which is built to actually support a snowblower (sadly they are not made anymore).

I would definitely go with a over 15 hp engine. I would also enquirer about the speeds at which the transmissions can turn so that in deep heavy snow it can be turned down to a speed you need.


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## tofer76 (Mar 27, 2011)

Spectrum said:


> I have a tractor mounted blower that I use from time to time, like last night.
> 
> Mine is 16 HP / 36 inch single stage hydrostatic drive and it moves a lot of snow in a hurry. If we're into very wet or very deep snow I prefer to run a walk behind machine but with the hydrostatic I can pretty much make it move anything.
> 
> ...


auto drive is what mtd calls it , basically I have a side shifter that is f or r and instead of letting out a clutch pedal ,I push down a pedal that tightens the drive belt and the farther I push it the tighter it gets and faster it goes 
kinda odd to get used to but after I did I like it as I can slow down as I come up to trees and such without shifting when mowing 
if you google the yard man kevin harvick mower you will see what pushes my 46in blade its running a 22hp B&S twin

the grey poulan however is a standard 5 sp with reg clutch and a 13.5hp briggs it has the 40 or 42in craftsman 2 stage on it


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## tofer76 (Mar 27, 2011)

Colored Eggs said:


> tofer76. 13.5 is probably under powered for what you are trying to move. You didn't really specify the size of the blower or how much and what type of snow you were blowing. There are actually walk behind snowblowers that use 13 hp engines to move snow and to propel it. You will probably be loosing a few horsepower moving the larger mower and also the rider which can cause it to be even more under powered. Hydrostatic drive is the top of the line but can also increase costs and repairs. the auto drive sounds interesting and similar to hydrostatic but probably at a cheaper price. If your looking for something that will last I would go to a dealership. Anything sold at big box stores is not meant to last. The snowblowers cause excessive wear to the front of the machines and* I have heard of front axles snapping due to the weight. this is however on cheap models like the Lowes brand John Deere etc and Mtds*. I would ask for a Garden Tractor instead of a Regular lawn mower as they are usually built heavier and come with more features. My family own a John Deere 322 Garden tractor which is built to actually support a snowblower (sadly they are not made anymore).
> 
> I would definitely go with a over 15 hp engine. I would also enquirer about the speeds at which the transmissions can turn so that in deep heavy snow it can be turned down to a speed you need.


my yardman has a cast front axel but it only supports the blower weight when it is raised up.

what do you mean by turning down a trans.


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## Colored Eggs (Dec 7, 2012)

tofer76 said:


> my yardman has a cast front axel but it only supports the blower weight when it is raised up.
> 
> what do you mean by turning down a trans.


Just meant at the lowest speed that it can travel. An example is that with set speed transmissions you can only go the speed at which it is meant to go. The only way you could go slower is by running your throttle slower however that would counter the power you need to actually move the snow. Most transmissions will say there speed range. An example the 322 can go from a snails pace to 7.3 mph with the hydro static transmission and anywhere in between. The transmission in my 111 however starts out at 1.4 mph which is a lot faster than any of my walk behinds can go when in blowing mode. 

I read your description of the auto drive. How does the belt look after its been used for some time?


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## Prometheus (Dec 28, 2013)

I've had a 36" single stage on 3 different single cylinder cub cadets. The most powerful was a 12 horse, 2 have been 10 horses. Those old Kohlers must be rated differently from power ratings on newer equipment. The 12 horse (model 126) was a straight manual and ran a little fast for deep snow, the 10 horse (100) has a creeper gear to slow down ground speed while keeping engine RPM up. The model 107 (10 horse) has a sunstrand hydro and just flat rocks because it's fast in reverse and infinitely variable on forward speed. Shear bolts are rolled pins and are easily accessible (no disassembly needed) and easy to change. I've used the same blower for 29 years now and have a spare put away for whenever it wears out. It isn't very impressive on a small snow but on 6"-26" I've never been disappointed. That being said I really like my 1987 Toro 826 too.


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## tofer76 (Mar 27, 2011)

Colored Eggs said:


> Just meant at the lowest speed that it can travel. An example is that with set speed transmissions you can only go the speed at which it is meant to go. The only way you could go slower is by running your throttle slower however that would counter the power you need to actually move the snow. Most transmissions will say there speed range. An example the 322 can go from a snails pace to 7.3 mph with the hydro static transmission and anywhere in between. The transmission in my 111 however starts out at 1.4 mph which is a lot faster than any of my walk behinds can go when in blowing mode.
> 
> I read your description of the auto drive. How does the belt look after its been used for some time?


it looks fine ,, ive been using this tractor for 5 years now and belt looks good kinda a weird setup but its nice after you get used to it


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

There's no question that running a snowblower is hard on the tractor's front end / steering. When elevated you have a lot more weight bearing down on the tire footprint. Some of that is eased when turning on snow and ice.

However when you try to steer while blowing you are fighting the skids. It's easy to find the wheels turned and sliding sideways while the rig advances straight ahead. this throws all sorts of stresses at every bearing and link on the thing.

A few snowstorms with the snow, ice, water and salt that you may be exposed to especially as it thaws and dries probably equates to a summers worth of lawncare wear and tear.

Pete


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I would think there is a problem with the way it's set up. That isn't any help but something in the blowers drive would seem to be spinning too slow.

Is it new to you ??
Has it ever worked properly for you ??
Any chance the engine isn't at full throttle, proper RPM ??
Have there been any parts replaced recently, idlers or pulleys, anything look new like it was replaced recently ??

I have a JD 160 which only has a 12.5HP engine and it's running a single stage 38" thrower and I don't have any problems with it out in the country with a long drive. Easily handles snows in faster gears that aren't up to the top of the bucket.
This year I'm using a JD 185 for blower duty, hydro with 17HP but the 12.5hp standard trans 160 worked fine for years.
Being you have a two stage it just seems it should clear even better.

Any chance you can post a video and you might try your question here too:
Lawn and Garden Tractor Accessories - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information


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## tofer76 (Mar 27, 2011)

no nothings been replaced, engine is at full throttle, I don't know what the rpms are of the engine, impeller or auger tho, anyone have the "baseline info " for what it should be?? its a 40 in 2stg craftsman
right now im broke down for a draglink on the tractor and a new one is like 35 bucks it keeps popping off the ball on the left wheel 
if I could speed up the blower and slow the tractor down it would be perfect I think 
that's why I was thinking a hydro tractor instead of gear drive


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

What you're thinking is correct, it should work but it's just a way around a problem. If that blower is supposed to work with your rider than it should work in first gear at a minimum and it should blow snow properly in faster gears under normal conditions.

The trick is finding out what is wrong. Usually the engines spin at 3600 RPM.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

Just what is happening? Is the engine losing RPM or is the PTO drive slipping? Looking back it's not clear to me.

By any chance is this a 2 sheave PTO and could the attachment be laced onto the wrong diameter? 

I don't buy the thought that if they sold it then it will work great. At some point of depth/speed and water content it will choke. Beyond that you find combinations that work effectively. 

Pete


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm not saying that because the Mfg. says it fits it's going to do a great job only that they tested it and it fits and the tractor should have adequate power to clear snow in most conditions. They don't want an unhappy customer. They don't want to recommend too big a blower when new cost someone 8-12 hundred dollars and has poor performance.
It's just a walk behind that you can sit down on. It's going to operate better under some conditions than it will under others. All I'm saying is if the rider is rated to run that 40" blower it should work as well as a walk behind would and unless you are plowing into something at or above the buckets height it should be working good in second or third gear, not struggling in first. Wet, heavy snow yes but the OP seems to be complaining that's it's this way all the time. If someone wrote in that they wanted to go slower than 1st in a walk behind wouldn't you think it's something wrong with the way it's set up, bad belt, slipping something, wrong size pulley ?? 

My Deere is 25 year old technology and I can blow the average snow in second or third. Light snow, 4-5 inches I'll do in fourth. About the only time I use first gear is the end of drive pile from the plow. To a point going faster is better as it loads the auger and it doesn't come out as light mist and blow back in your face.


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## Koenig041 (Dec 18, 2013)

I ran a craftsman Lt2000 17hp Koehler, gear select drive, 42inch thrower attachment. This set up is a pita, slow and cumbersome. I hated this set up. Took up too much room in the garage. Not hard to switch the mower deck and thrower, but its usually done when cold out. Clogged Chute you have to turn the machine off, get off and walk around, just a production. Light snow it was awesome. Just remembered having to put the wheel weights on. Even though it was a 42 inch cut it was slow going. My Husqvarna 2454 tractor would probably work better because there is no clutch, just accelerator and brake. In the heavy snow I was always riding the clutch so the chute would not clog. If you have a lot of snow to move just get a heavy duty blower with a large cut. If you are physically able to walk, get a snow blower.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Then they must do something different building the John Deere. I have had the blower on the littler 12.5 engine with a geared transmission and I've never really had to be in first for it to work unless I'm at the end of the drive in the snow plows pile.

I've since picked up a 185 which is a hydro and 17.5 HP and it does even better. Plan to leave it as a blower and the 160 as a mower.

It's only cold when you change over if you've procrastnated and waited long past when you needed the mower to mount your blower. I know, been there, froze that.
.


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## tofer76 (Mar 27, 2011)

so for you a hydro is better for blowing snow cuz of the variable speed adjustment


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Nope, I bought the 185 because it was cheap and had a bigger engine. The hydro wasn't a consideration. For snow I wanted a few more HP as the 12.5 of the smaller tractor (160) just seemed barely adequate. It would seem to loose a little engine speed and throwing distance when in the heavy stuff.

But even with the smaller 160 with a geared trans I did the drive in second or third with most snows.

The 185 "Princess Peach" had been a young girls pulling tractor in a previous life. That was a spare green body I put on quickly as it originally was all pink.


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## tofer76 (Mar 27, 2011)

well so far no luck on a hydro tractor yet but I have done a impeller mod and worked on my snow blade adding wings


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## puppycat (Oct 30, 2014)

*tractor with front mount blower*



Spectrum said:


> There's no question that running a snowblower is hard on the tractor's front end / steering. When elevated you have a lot more weight bearing down on the tire footprint. Some of that is eased when turning on snow and ice.
> 
> However when you try to steer while blowing you are fighting the skids. It's easy to find the wheels turned and sliding sideways while the rig advances straight ahead. this throws all sorts of stresses at every bearing and link on the thing.
> 
> ...


I have a 1986 Gravely 8179-G with 17 hp kohler, gear drive 4hi 4low transmission, cast iron front axle with poor mans power steering (thrust bearings on each spindle). I have a 44" snowblower thats weighs 250 lbs out front, the blower is shaft drive PTO. Hydro lift. I have never had any problem with the front axle. If you try to make a lawn tractor do garden tractor work your are going to have trouble. Lawn tractors are for cutting grass.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Not all of us have the cash for a garden tractor and have to make due with the lawn mower/blower 

It's a matter of treating it with a little more care and making sure you keep everything maintained, adjusted and lubed.
MY JD 165 is still going strong after 25 years of mowing and blowing  Just recently picked up a 185 to use for the blower so I don't have to do changeovers, just the battery !!


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## puppycat (Oct 30, 2014)

tofer76 said:


> well as I didn't see a thread dedicated to tractors w front mounted blowers I will ask this here,
> I have a poulan lawn tractor ,13.5hp B&S, 5sp, manual PTO with a front mounted 2 stage blower on it and even in first gear it seems to overfeed the blower.
> I have to ride the clutch the whole time
> 
> ...


I think your problem is the belt that powers the blower. If the belt is slipping it would be very easy to overfeed the blower. Maybe you should check the pulleys to see if they are turning good (bearings good) also check the idler pulley/s and that everything is aligned and straight.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Or with an older belt it might look to be in good shape but be worn narrower than it was new and so is riding down in the grooves deeper and in doing so would be spinning slower.


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