# Plastic Gas fitting replacement.



## Big Ed

Hi all, I have a Craftsman 5hp Model # 536.886141.
It has served me well for years, though I wish I had bought a larger one instead. Last year I did not even have to use it, not much snow fell. 

I am guessing the engine is a Craftsman? Though the part number for the fitting is listed as Tecumseh.
I ordered a replacement fitting, the plastic part on mine is cracked and leaking. Why the heck do they make them plastic!

I attached a picture of the new one. My question is how are they held in?
I did not get the new one yet. Are they screwed in or pressed in?
Where the plastic part sits on the rest of the fitting, is that made to come off, I don't think it should. Mine comes off but that is where it is cracked.

Thanks in advance, I did not want to try to turn it or try yanking it out before I knew how it properly came out.


Took the plastic fitting picture out, making room in my attachment folder.

I bought parts from here, so I guess it is OK to post the picture?
I am sure they won't mind.


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## td5771

They are a press fit. Put a skim coat of gas proof sealer on the rim before pressing it in. Also make sure it is pointing the way you want it to. Once it is in its in. If you spin it afterwards it will leak.


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## Flannelman

I had to replace one the other day I drilled it out as much as I was comfortable with and then used an easy out to get the remainder. I put the carb in my hand vise and gently cranked it shut to get the new fitting in.


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## Big Ed

Flannelman said:


> I had to replace one the other day I drilled it out as much as I was comfortable with and then used an easy out to get the remainder. I put the carb in my hand vise and gently cranked it shut to get the new fitting in.



I kind of figured it was pressed in. 
Thanks TD I will make sure of that it is directed the right way. 

Flannel, how do you protect the plastic piece when you cranked it in? 
That plastic piece is not made to come off right? 
I am afraid of cracking it in the process. 
Why the heck don't they make it screw in! 

And instead of plastic why not brass, I wonder if anyone ever tried to chase some threads in it, so they could screw a fitting in?

Anyway thanks for the reply's, much appreciated.


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## Simplicity Solid 22

Here is a shortcut to manual/parts/schematics of your Craftsman.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...86141&diagramPageId=00001&documentId=10061492

your engine is a Tecumseh HSSK50-67338S(Horizontal Small frame Snow KING-HSSK) 50=5HP
craftsman equivalent #143.985003


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## td5771

fittings do come threaded and in brass. they are 1/8 ips, or iron pipe size. common thread but the problem would be you would need a bottoming tap (not as pointed as a regular) in 1/8 pipe thread. dont know if you could buy one. need that so it does not go in too far and destroy the carb. pipe taps are pretty blunt any way, I will have to go outside and take a look.


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## Simplicity Solid 22

Here are a couple of stats on HSSK50

*MODEL LH195SA, HSSK50*
HORSEPOWER 5.0
3.73 kW
BORE & STROKE 2.795 x 1.938 in.
70.99 x 49.23 mm
DISPLACEMENT 11.88 cu. in.
195 cc
OIL CAPACITY 21 oz.
.62 ltr.
(APPROX.) WEIGHT 33 lbs.
15.0 kg
BOLT MTG. CIRCLE 3.625 in.
90 mm


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## Big Ed

Simplicity Solid 22 said:


> Here is a shortcut to manual/parts/schematics of your Craftsman.
> 
> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...86141&diagramPageId=00001&documentId=10061492
> 
> your engine is a Tecumseh HSSK50-67338S(Horizontal Small frame Snow KING-HSSK) 50=5HP
> craftsman equivalent #143.985003


Thanks, yes I found that manual and somewhere I have the hard copy, as it came with the snow blower.... I think. I can't find it
In that manual it says, CRAFTSMAN 4-CYCLE ENGINE MODEL NUMBER 143.995001
That is a copy and paste from the section of the engine breakdown picture.
So they used Tecumseh's? I always thought it was called a Craftsman engine. 
I thought they made their own brand engine?


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## Big Ed

td5771 said:


> fittings do come threaded and in brass. they are 1/8 ips, or iron pipe size. common thread but the problem would be you would need a bottoming tap (not as pointed as a regular) in 1/8 pipe thread. dont know if you could buy one. need that so it does not go in too far and destroy the carb. pipe taps are pretty blunt any way, I will have to go outside and take a look.


I am not going to try and chase a thread in it, my luck is I would screw the carb up.


That plastic piece is not made to come off right?


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## Simplicity Solid 22

Nope any power equipment made by craftsmen is usually another brand. The prefix in front tells it all. Most Kenmore appliances which use to be made by whirlpool are now mostly made by LG. Depends on first three numbers with sears.

Click Here: Craftsman OEM List | VintageMachinery.org



That link I gave gave you has all the group diagrams of your machine with the parts with prices.


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## Big Ed

Thanks for the OEM list, I never saw that before.

Every time I see the guy down the street with his big horse powered snow blower, with heated handles and headlights, I feel like buying a new machine. 

Heck the only thing he doesn't have on his is a FM radio.

But the little 5 horse Craftsman has done a good job over the years, but you have to work at it. 
His just walks through the big stuff.

Thanks again.


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## HCBPH

Ed

Though not the same model, I have a couple of 5 hp's, a couple of 7's and a 10 right now (those are all Craftsmans). The 'little' 5 is bigger than the 'smaller 4' I had at my kids place 2 years ago when we were blasted. It churned though 12" snowfalls just fine. It wouldn't move as much as fast as the 7 or 10 would just because they were bigger and wider but it held it's own just fine. Your 5 with a little TLC should have alot more life left in it.


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## Big Ed

Compared to some of the pictures I have seen of machines the same age as mine, mine looks like new.
Heck a couple of years ago it took care of a 24" snowfall drifts in all.
When I say the big stuff I mean what the plows leave at the end of the driveway. But if I go slow eventually that gets moved away too.

I still like what he had, I think it was a Toro 16 hp? Though I want to say it was a bigger engine I am not sure. I am not sure it was even a Toro, I know it was big and orange. Toro make orange machines?
The heated handles were nice.  Headlights too.

He would take it down the sidewalk all the way down the block turn around and come up the other side of the street.
Like he was out walking the dog. With a big smile on his face.
All the neighbors loved it, but then he moved.


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## Big Ed

I also got the new fitting in now.

I first tried a little easy-out in the fittings fuel hole, but feared I was going to break the easy-out.

So I tapped the old one out with a small chisel, I went around and gently tapped it all around and it came out easy.
I put the new one in and used a small C clamp with a piece of wood over the plastic fitting to set her in.

I am ready for the next storm now.


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## detdrbuzzard

good job big ed now post a pic of your snowblower, i would love to see it


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## Big Ed

Not much to look at, just a little 22" 5 horse. 


















I got the cover off the carb yet, I am going to mess around this weekend with it.
I was reading the other thread about adjusting the carb, but mine doesn't have the bottom screw in the center under the fuel bowl next to the drain piece.
Before I put the cover back on I want to make sure I have no leaks.

Edit,
The only thing I have done to this is normal adjustments, I added a piece on the shifter to raise it up as I got tired of bending down to shift all the time.
I don't know how the fitting got cracked? I threw a new fuel line along with it. Got a new plug too.


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## Simplicity Solid 22

Big Ed,

Your machine looks like almost new...

What model engine and what are model and serial numbers of engine???


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## Big Ed

I got to clean it up some, you see the one side of the wheel is getting rusty and on the housing I see another spot of rust. It is due grease and I got to check all of the adjustments. I don't have much time during the week so I got to do it on the weekend.

I will add a few pictures of my carburetor maybe someone can direct me to the proper way to adjust it, I don't have the bottom center adjusting screw on mine.
I think the manual says see a certified technician for that. 

I will add the pictures on the next post.

It says on the engine tag,
Sears
Model # 143,995001
Engine Family VTP195U1RC
Displacement 195 
D.O.M 8240 W


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## Big Ed

The carburetor,

Edit,
Took out 3 carb pictures, I left one in.
Making room in my attachments folder.


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## Simplicity Solid 22

First you have a Tecumseh HSSK50-67392S on your bad boy!!

Second you have a fixed jet. 

This might help:


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## MTD1014

Big Ed said:


> Thanks for the OEM list, I never saw that before.
> 
> Every time I see the guy down the street with his big horse powered snow blower, with heated handles and headlights, I feel like buying a new machine.
> 
> Heck the only thing he doesn't have on his is a FM radio.
> 
> But the little 5 horse Craftsman has done a good job over the years, but you have to work at it.
> His just walks through the big stuff.
> 
> Thanks again.


Hi Big Ed

You might wanna take a look at GustoGuy's $99 engine swap to a machine just like yours. Mtd Yardmachine 5/22 repower with Harbor frieght Pedator 212cc OHV engine - YouTube Gusto a great person and very helpful and smart. I had my almost new tecumseh fail and am in the process of switching to a new Predator engine with the help of my father inlaw. So far he is very impressed with the Predator engine so I am very excited to see how it performs compared to the Tecumseh. 

Best Regards
1014


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## HCBPH

Ed

That looks like the newer 'non adjustable' carbs. I've had one I got with some parts but I got rid of it. If I had a good engine but was having carb issues, I'd look for a older comparable carb that had things like the same choke and throttle linkage but with adjustable jets and swap them out. I've changed a couple of carbs on 8 HP to add things like primer bulbs, poor choke linkage etc and I'm happy with the results.
If the engine on the other hand is crapped out, then I'd consider changing out the engine but a carb should be an easier swap than an engine, especially if you have a 2 shaft engine currently.

My 2 cents.


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## Big Ed

Simplicity Solid 22 said:


> First you have a Tecumseh HSSK50-67392S on your bad boy!!
> 
> Second you have a fixed jet.
> 
> This might help: HOW TO Remove & Clean Fixed JET on Snowblower Carburetor - YouTube


Thanks, that covers it pretty good.



MTD1014 said:


> Hi Big Ed
> 
> You might wanna take a look at GustoGuy's $99 engine swap to a machine just like yours. Mtd Yardmachine 5/22 repower with Harbor frieght Pedator 212cc OHV engine - YouTube Gusto a great person and very helpful and smart. I had my almost new tecumseh fail and am in the process of switching to a new Predator engine with the help of my father inlaw. So far he is very impressed with the Predator engine so I am very excited to see how it performs compared to the Tecumseh.
> 
> Best Regards
> 1014


I hope mine keeps running so I don't have to swap it.
If it blows then I might shop for a big one with heated handles and a big horse. 



HCBPH said:


> Ed
> 
> That looks like the newer 'non adjustable' carbs. I've had one I got with some parts but I got rid of it. If I had a good engine but was having carb issues, I'd look for a older comparable carb that had things like the same choke and throttle linkage but with adjustable jets and swap them out. I've changed a couple of carbs on 8 HP to add things like primer bulbs, poor choke linkage etc and I'm happy with the results.
> If the engine on the other hand is crapped out, then I'd consider changing out the engine but a carb should be an easier swap than an engine, especially if you have a 2 shaft engine currently.
> 
> My 2 cents.



Knock on wood the engine runs good. I was just wondering about the adjustments. If I ever need a carb I will look for one that adjusts.

I wonder how one would set the engine for max power without going too far as to maybe blow the engine? 
What would I need? Just a tachometer to adjust it?
What kind of meter would they use to set it?
And where would one find the specs that they would use to set it for max power? 
Anyone know? Someone here must have done this, right?


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## Big Ed

Since I am a wheelman, I think this would suit me fine if I ever need a new snowblower/snowthrower. 

I would be set then. 

Edit, took out a picture of a big tractor with a blower attachment.
Need room in my attachment folder.


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## HCBPH

*Replacement*



Big Ed said:


> Since I am a wheelman, I think this would suit me fine if I ever need a new snowblower/snowthrower.
> 
> I would be set then.
> 
> View attachment 1180


I'd take it, don't know where I'd park it but I'd take it


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## woodtick007

Big Ed said:


> Since I am a wheelman, I think this would suit me fine if I ever need a new snowblower/snowthrower.
> 
> I would be set then.
> 
> View attachment 1180


WOW.....very nice tractor! I have a Yanmar 1610D and have considered a PTO driven snowblower.... I am just struggling with the whole working in reverse thing lol I found a 48" PTO driven Ariens blower I am considering converting buying and converting to a 3 point blower... At this point in the season I am praying for no snow so it does not sell and I can pick it up for a song. I figure if it was strong enough for an 18-20hp Ariens GT tractor it should hold up to an 20hp 3 cylinder diesel  Fun Fun Fun


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## Big Ed

I was talking to my neighbor today, he has a 9 horse Craftsman. His keeps breaking the shear bolts for some reason.
Since I had my 5 horse craftsman, I have never replaced one yet?
And I don't fool around when I try to plow stuff. I wonder why I never broke a shear bolt yet? He goes through a bunch of shear bolts a season.

Anyway we were talking about maintaining the machine and the subject turned to greasing. He said he greases all the bearings, I said I only have one grease fitting on mine for the friction plate bearing. I don't have any others and the manual says all the others (like the auger shaft bearings) are self contained for the life of the machine.
I wonder what they think the life of a machine would be?

Would there be anyway I could repack something like the auger shaft bearings on mine? Something in the way of how you would repack a wheel bearing on a car?


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## Mr Fixit

Maybe take your auger shear bolts off and see if your auger free wheels after. Might be your augers are rusted on to the shaft. Some units have grease nipples on each side of the gear box to keep water/rust away.. A good step for the fall check list.


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## Big Ed

Mr Fixit said:


> Maybe take your auger shear bolts off and see if your auger free wheels after. Might be your augers are rusted on to the shaft. Some units have grease nipples on each side of the gear box to keep water/rust away.. A good step for the fall check list.


I will do that though I don't think mine is rusted. Mine has all self contained never need grease bearings, they say. 
I only have one grease fitting for the drive disk plate bearing.

Maybe he keeps breaking the shear bolts because he has the 9 horse instead of the 5 horse?

It doesn't seem normal to me for him to go through so many shear bolts.
What can cause his to break so often? 

Since I had mine I have not replaced one, I think my machine is from around 2005? Not sure, is there a way to find the year of it?


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## Shryp

Does he have a gravel driveway or lots of ice or rocks? Maybe he is just rough on his equipment and charges full speed ahead into the snow banks?


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## Big Ed

Shryp said:


> Does he have a gravel driveway or lots of ice or rocks? Maybe he is just rough on his equipment and charges full speed ahead into the snow banks?


Nope all smooth surfaces, and he takes care with all his equipment, lawnmowers, gas blowers, chain saws, snowblower's, outboard engines, everything he owns. 

I never knew someone like him, I think he takes apart and cleans all his carburetors after each use I think. 

I have a mower from 1998 and never had the carb apart yet. He has 3 mowers all much newer then mine and must have had the carbs apart 10 times all ready.
I don't know why, he is retired I think he just likes rebuilding them.

This winter it seems like he busts the shear bolts at least once every storm, he says it must be because he has a 9 horse and I only have a 5.
I don't think so, I think there must be some other cause for them to break so often.
Maybe one of the auger bearings is bad and a little sloppy?
Bent the auger shaft a little?
I think there is another cause for them to break, but I am no way an expert on snowblowers that is for sure.
That is why I asked here.


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## Shryp

Another thought. Does he drive off the edge of his drive at all? I did notice once where the drive at my mother's stops about 8 inches from the fence and my old Toro 3521 would have a wheel off the drive if I tried going up against the fence and it would cause the auger to hit the edge of the drive sticking up.


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## Big Ed

Shryp said:


> Another thought. Does he drive off the edge of his drive at all? I did notice once where the drive at my mother's stops about 8 inches from the fence and my old Toro 3521 would have a wheel off the drive if I tried going up against the fence and it would cause the auger to hit the edge of the drive sticking up.


I will ask him again when I see him but I think he told me that he thought it was strange for them to bust as he was not even trying to move the end of the driveway heavy stuff. Just walking behind it doing a paved driveway. Almost a level driveway nice and smooth no bumps or dips even at the end where it meets the road.
He takes care (to much care) of all his stuff and does all things in a careful way. He is too careful sometimes.  So for him to hit something like a curb or a cobblestone lining his driveway would not be like him at all.
I will ask him again, but like I said it is not like him to go around haphazardly in anything he does.

There must be something else causing the bolts to break.


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## Shryp

Does he over tighten or under tighten them? Also are his holes worn oblong and allow for the augers to rock back and forth and snap from the slapping action?


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## Big Ed

Shryp said:


> Does he over tighten or under tighten them? Also are his holes worn oblong and allow for the augers to rock back and forth and snap from the slapping action?


Thanks Shryp.
I will have to ask him, the holes worn oblong would eventually snap them. Right? I guess that would be from the bolts being real loose.
What is recommended on tightening the bolts?
Just snug them up? I would think that tightening them fairly tight would be better then tightening them loose, knowing him I doubt that they are left loose, unless the manual says to tighten them loose.
What way would be the correct way?


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## Shryp

Big Ed said:


> What way would be the correct way?


Depends on who you ask. I think generally they are to be tightened until the nut touches the auger and then no more. You should be able to turn them by hand. If he over does it he could be partially shearing them before he uses them. Some have torque specs though I think.


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## Big Ed

Shryp said:


> Depends on who you ask. I think generally they are to be tightened until the nut touches the auger and then no more. You should be able to turn them by hand. If he over does it he could be partially shearing them before he uses them. Some have torque specs though I think.


I will see him this weekend and ask him, he gets all excited when we are supposed to get snow. He will probably be out there cleaning his carbs.  

Why is it I keep having to log back in when I move from post to post?
Or when I move around to other things too?
A lot of things I click after I click them I look up and I am not logged in?

Edit,
example after I wrote this I went and clicked forum and got logged off, I hit the back key and I am logged on?


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## Shryp

Big Ed said:


> Why is it I keep having to log back in when I move from post to post?
> Or when I move around to other things too?
> A lot of things I click after I click them I look up and I am not logged in?
> 
> Edit,
> example after I wrote this I went and clicked forum and got logged off, I hit the back key and I am logged on?


No clue. I don't have that issue and haven't seen anyone else mention it. Are you clicking the "remember me box"? Though that shouldn't matter since that is for closing the browser. Have you tried different browsers or a different computer to rule out a problem on your end?


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## Big Ed

In the above posts I asked about the shear bolts breaking on my neighbors blower.
I thought he was breaking the augers bolts.

He just told me he is breaking the wheel shear bolt!
I wished he mentioned that last years ago.
He has a 9 hp Craftsman and if he takes it slow they don't break, but it is when he tries to go faster they break. He told me that is why he got the blower so cheap as the former owner got tired of them breaking.
He says it must be from the higher HP engine?
I don't think it is normal, I think they shouldn't break like they do.

It happens on light snow too, if he tries to go fast.
But more on the heavy snow that the plows leave at the end of the driveway.
He has a bag of replacement bolts and just goes real slow.

Anyone have any ideals on why the WHEEL shear bolts would break like that?
He tightens them as to the manual recommendation.
He says they are the proper bolt strength.
Any ideals?


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## Shryp

Seems like a common issue.






Make sure the hole isn't slightly oblong allowing some rocking, try drilling it out to a slightly larger bolt and just weld the gear on. Also, use a shoulder bolt that is long enough since that would be thicker and fit tighter than threads in the hole.


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## Big Ed

Thanks Shryp, I will forward the video to him.
That is a shear bolt by the gear? 
I watched the video this morning, I thought he fixed it with a grade 8 bolt?

That doesn't sound right if that is the shear bolt?

I have to watch it again.


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## Shryp

I say stick whatever in there will hold together. There can't be much in the drive system that can be damaged. Most machines just end up with the wheels spinning or the friction wheel slipping when you hit something.


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