# Ariens ST824 924050 auger belt jumps off



## octane (Dec 3, 2018)

Hey guys , i need some help to figure out this problem.
Made a quick video ... easier for me to show you that way 
Any tips?


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

The length looks to be nearly correct - 1/10" long, but I wonder if the width of the belt is correct.

The part numbers appear to be 72066 for the tractor belt (34" x 3/8"), and 72086 for the attachment belt (39.4" x 1/2"). I'm no expert but 1/10" extra length I would suspect wouldn't be the outright cause.

That belt seems to be riding kinda high to me though. Is the belt an actual Ariens/Gravely 72086 or 07208600? Or simply a belt that measured the (near) length correct?


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## octane (Dec 3, 2018)

Im not sure if its an original belt, I just went to a local shop who sells and service Ariens blowers.
Its 39.5" in lenght and 0.5" wide. From my research thats correct.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Hmmm. One thing I just noticed from when you first started until you engaged the idler.

From the owner's manual, page 8, "Replacement of Blower Housing"...

5. The idler on the attachment belt is adjustable. If the belt slips, adjust the idler in the slot in the idler arm to apply more tension to the belt. Belt should declutch when attachment clutch is disengaged.


When you first started the blower up, the belt was declutched...it was not spinning - and the two idlers were in alignment together. Then you engaged the clutch and disengaged the clutch several times. But when you disengaged the clutch, the belt kept spinning but with a lot less tension on it.

To me...why does that occur?

Edited to add...on second look and studying pictures in the manual...my hunch would be that maybe the adjustment on the attachment idler, that bolt that holds it in place to the idler arm appears to be fully to the right. Maybe try loosening that bolt and moving the idler left a bit to take some tension off the idler arm when engaged would give it enough to fully disengage the belt...and therefore not slip off.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I could think of two things, but am not 100% certain.

1) From the video, it looks like the tensioner is set at the maximum travel to allow the most tension. With tensioner engaged, how much belt deflection do you have? The general rule of thumb is 1/2"

https://allthumbsdiy.com/outdoor-po...-auger-belt-for-john-deere-1330se-snow-blower

2) how's the auger bearing?


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## octane (Dec 3, 2018)

tlshawks said:


> 5. The idler on the attachment belt is adjustable. If the belt slips, adjust the idler in the slot in the idler arm to apply more tension to the belt. Belt should declutch when attachment clutch is disengaged.
> 
> 
> When you first started the blower up, the belt was declutched...it was not spinning - and the two idlers were in alignment together. Then you engaged the clutch and disengaged the clutch several times. But when you disengaged the clutch, the belt kept spinning but with a lot less tension on it.
> ...


The reason why its still spinning, i believe is because the auger break (https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/ariens/52404800) is worn out.
It will stop spinning after 5-10 more seconds.
You are right about the idler wheel , it is adjusted for maximum tension (all the way to the right), i did this just to try take of some slack in the belt.


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## octane (Dec 3, 2018)

db130 said:


> I could think of two things, but am not 100% certain.
> 
> 1) From the video, it looks like the tensioner is set at the maximum travel to allow the most tension. With tensioner engaged, how much belt deflection do you have? The general rule of thumb is 1/2"
> 
> ...


I will check the deflection tomorrow, but its pretty tight ... .5" sounds about right.. yupp the idler wheel is adjusted to maximun tension , all the way to the right.
Hmm how do I check the auger bearing?


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## octane (Dec 3, 2018)

Could the belt be jumping of because the auger break is worn out?? 
I mean , if the break would engage , it would apply drag on the belt, at the moment I release the handle.... wouldn't it?


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I'd put a couple of washers under the little bar that is supposed to keep the belt on the pulley and get it closer to the center of the pulley....if in the right position, the belt can't jump off...


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## octane (Dec 3, 2018)

cranman said:


> I'd put a couple of washers under the little bar that is supposed to keep the belt on the pulley and get it closer to the center of the pulley....if in the right position, the belt can't jump off...


Do you mean the U bar?


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

I would suggest you replace the auger brake. If the belt is spinning without load, a simple bounce on a pulley could be enough to knock it off. The brake pad should stop it from running amok. While you're fixing the brake, check the large auger pulley grove to see if there is any corrosion in there or rough spots. Should not be as the belt should keep it clean, but since you have it apart anyway, and you are fixing the brake and checking the auger bearing, why not look at everything that you can easily get at while the machine is split.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

octane said:


> I will check the deflection tomorrow, but its pretty tight ... .5" sounds about right.. yupp the idler wheel is adjusted to maximun tension , all the way to the right.
> Hmm how do I check the auger bearing*?


I actually meant to write impeller bearing*


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Yup...it isn't far enough forward


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## octane (Dec 3, 2018)

Ok guys , I replaced the auger break pad , but the belt still jumps off.
I then I tried cranman's suggustion about moving the U bar forward, put 3 washers behind it , and this did the trick... the belt stayed on!
Thanks for the help everyone


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I'm glad it worked but I think the belt is 1/2" too long. I measure all my belts old and new and make adjustments accordingly. I also but only Kevlar belts by either D&D Power o r Pix.


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