# Plastic lining in chute



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Since I am doing a complete overhaul on my Ariens,I started thinking, is it worth the trouble to put in 1/16 plastic lining in the chute like the yamaha has, Does it help that much or is it just a slight upgrade. I would LOVE to be able to put the snow on the other side of the street when clearing the sidewalk LOL, But will the lining really help in distance or is it more to just stop the wet stuff from sticking.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I think it will help stop rust, and stop snow from sticking. There is a recent thread about the material to use. I believe that UHMW is recommended.


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## GregNL (Jan 9, 2017)

Dauntae said:


> Since I am doing a complete overhaul on my Ariens,I started thinking, is it worth the trouble to put in 1/16 plastic lining in the chute like the yamaha has, Does it help that much or is it just a slight upgrade. I would LOVE to be able to put the snow on the other side of the street when clearing the sidewalk LOL, But will the lining really help in distance or is it more to just stop the wet stuff from sticking.


The stock Yamaha's have closer to a 1/8" formed piece of Teflon for the chute, the 1028 and 1332 have about a 1/4" piece lining the impeller housing also.

I used a 1/16" sheet of UHMW plastic during my rebuild for several reasons. First, it will protect the paint and metal from premature damage and rusting; it most definitely prevents snow and ice build up, especially after the type of sticky snow we had today, my chute remained perfectly clear after several hours of heavy use; due to the ultra low friction properties and added abrasion resistance of both Teflon and UHMW it most definitely aids in snow evacuation and increased throwing distance but by how much I cannot say. I can certainly see a distinct snow pattern when turning the chute side to side created by the plastic liner when shooting straight up. The benefits outweigh any reason not to install it. The hardest part is fitting a template and cutting it to shape in the plastic sheet. Increasing the distance is best gained by an impeller modification either with a liner to reduce clearance or zero clearance extensions on the impeller itself. Good Luck!


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

Of course "stopping the wet stuff from sticking" would go a long way toward improving distance. And, in my opinion, is more important than distance. I think the answer comes in your evaluating your machine. If snow is sticking to the chute, your effectiveness is being impacted and there's several things you can do including a chute lining. If on the other hand, your chute's not clogging improving the chute is of little consequence in terms of distance..


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Improving the Chute is of LARGE Consequence. Chute Upgrade on 10000 series is like Night and Day for Throwing Distance.


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## Nshusky (Jan 1, 2017)

GregNL said:


> The stock Yamaha's have closer to a 1/8" formed piece of Teflon for the chute, the 1028 and 1332 have about a 1/4" piece lining the impeller housing also.
> 
> I used a 1/16" sheet of UHMW plastic during my rebuild for several reasons. First, it will protect the paint and metal from premature damage and rusting; it most definitely prevents snow and ice build up, especially after the type of sticky snow we had today, my chute remained perfectly clear after several hours of heavy use; due to the ultra low friction properties and added abrasion resistance of both Teflon and UHMW it most definitely aids in snow evacuation and increased throwing distance but by how much I cannot say. I can certainly see a distinct snow pattern when turning the chute side to side created by the plastic liner when shooting straight up. The benefits outweigh any reason not to install it. The hardest part is fitting a template and cutting it to shape in the plastic sheet. Increasing the distance is best gained by an impeller modification either with a liner to reduce clearance or zero clearance extensions on the impeller itself. Good Luck!


Where did you purchase the sheet of material?


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

Jackmels said:


> Improving the Chute is of LARGE Consequence. Chute Upgrade on 10000 series is like Night and Day for Throwing Distance.


Jackmels, you're emphatic and obviously knowledgeable on what you say so I'd appreciate your helping me out with this because I'm not familiar with 10000 series chutes. What is it about these chutes that make them so susceptible to sticking snow that adding a liner would always make a substantial improvement?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

You can Google it, you can order online from Walmart, Home Depot, many plastic places even locally, Grainger's. It's polyethylene, very common, even comes in colors though white is the most common, black next. You can get it in different widths, sheets, as tape, and with an adhesive backing. You may be able to attach it with a contact cement or construction adhesive but generally best would be attached with #6 stainless machine screws using washers and torque nuts or similar.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Your Quote "improving the chute is of little consequence in terms of distance" is Incorrect. Anyone who Mods their Own equipment Knows this.


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## Tony P. (Jan 9, 2017)

Jackmels said:


> Your Quote "improving the chute is of little consequence in terms of distance" is Incorrect. Anyone who Mods their Own equipment Knows this.


Jackmels, I certainly don't mind being quoted and say plenty of things that are incorrect, but I don't like someone taking only part of what I said to give the impression I'm incorrect and then criticize me for it. 

What I said was:
If on the other hand, your chute's not clogging improving the chute is of little consequence in terms of distance.

The concept I was trying to make is entirely correct: if the chute is not a problem, correcting it will be of little consequence. And note that the original question concerned degree of improvement so what I said is entirely correct.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

GregNL said:


> First, it will protect the paint and metal from premature damage and rusting;


Protect from damage yes, that's obvious..but protect from rusting? hmmm..im not so sure.
it seems that the lining could trap water (often salty water) between the lining and the chute, which could actually cause and accelerate rusting,
because you cant get to the water to wipe it down, and it cant easily evaporate..

just throwing that out there! 

Scot


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Tony P. said:


> Jackmels, you're emphatic and obviously knowledgeable on what you say so I'd appreciate your helping me out with this because I'm not familiar with 10000 series chutes. What is it about these chutes that make them so susceptible to sticking snow that adding a liner would always make a substantial improvement?


I don't think JackMels was referring specifically to the 10000 chutes that make them susceptible to sticking snow, I took it as adding a liner to any chute would make a difference, a substantial improvement to reduce friction thus both throwing the snow further which may not be an issue nor necessary but the clogging issue and wet snow issue is a problem. With any wet snow you generally have to put the blower in a lower gear thus slowing down your time getting the job done.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Can someone please do a little write up of what exactly they used, and the procedure that they used to adhere it to their chute. I have wanted to do this, but it seems like there are too many options of what material to use.

Thanks !


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

RIT333 said:


> Can someone please do a little write up of what exactly they used, and the procedure that they used to adhere it to their chute. I have wanted to do this, but it seems like there are too many options of what material to use.
> 
> Thanks !


Search GregNL as he has extensive experience regarding liners. He has experimented and failed and found the best way to do it. He attaches it using either #4 or #6 stainless machine screws and nylon locknut. I prefer oval locknuts or centerlock nuts.


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## GregNL (Jan 9, 2017)

Nshusky said:


> Where did you purchase the sheet of material?


Since you're in Nova Scotia, visit your local Acklands Grainger, they can order it through the Grainger division in the US. I ordered UHMW plastic "film" as it's 1/16" thick, 24" x 24" was the size.




sscotsman said:


> Protect from damage yes, that's obvious..but protect from rusting? hmmm..im not so sure.
> it seems that the lining could trap water (often salty water) between the lining and the chute, which could actually cause and accelerate rusting,
> because you cant get to the water to wipe it down, and it cant easily evaporate..
> 
> ...


No missing paint from rock chips or snow/ice abrasion, no rust. It's not 100% fail safe. That's like saying you rust proofed your car with any type of product be it liquid or rubberized and expecting it to eliminate 100% of the rusting, not happening but it will dramatically reduce the amount that would have formed if it were not protected, at least if living in any location that relies heavily on salt during the winter or has high year round humidity like in NL. I get what you are saying about water being trapped between the liner and the chute and it may pose an issue, that's something I'll have to keep an eye on. For now I've been spraying Teflon down between them. I'm just following Yamaha's lead and design concept on their new machines and so far it's working. If I can go 1 or 2 winters or more without having to sand, prime and repaint the chute then to me it's doing what it's supposed to. If it was new factory paint or powder coat then I'd expect it to last even longer from damage or rusting.



RIT333 said:


> Can someone please do a little write up of what exactly they used, and the procedure that they used to adhere it to their chute. I have wanted to do this, but it seems like there are too many options of what material to use.
> 
> Thanks !


I originally posted the modification in my Yamaha YS624 Rebuild thread. It's not step by step but it will give you an idea how to proceed.

It's also been discussed here http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/snowblower-repairs-maintenance-forum/107521-what-type-plastic-snow-sleds-carpet-made.html?highlight=uhmw and here http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/snowblower-repairs-maintenance-forum/107289-using-roll-up-plastic-snow-sled-material-line-chute.html?highlight=uhmw


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

sscotsman said:


> Protect from damage yes, that's obvious..but protect from rusting? hmmm..im not so sure.
> it seems that the lining could trap water (often salty water) between the lining and the chute, which could actually cause and accelerate rusting,
> because you cant get to the water to wipe it down, and it cant easily evaporate..
> 
> ...





GregNL said:


> No missing paint from rock chips or snow/ice abrasion, no rust.


ok, well that's a valid point.
but only if the paint is pristine to start with! 
if you have any pre-existing scrapes or gouges, I could see where adding a plastic liner could potentially make rusting worse, because of holding in the moisture.

just something I considered, and wanted to add it to the mix..

Scot


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

To solve the water penetration problem, run a thin bead of clear or white caulk along the edges. Or better yet, before you tighten it, smear some caulk, a very thin layer on the fastening side before tightening down.

Paint does not rust, metal rusts, and it rusts when it is exposed. The metal gets exposed when it wears from abrasion in a spot, or chips, then water gets behind and moves along getting behind the paint rusting further and lifting the paint. By the insertion of a plastic liner over a good surface that is already good or has been properly prepared and painted using an oil based paint then caulked, there shouldn't be any rusting or deterioration of the metal.


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## GregNL (Jan 9, 2017)

sscotsman said:


> ok, well that's a valid point.
> but only if the paint is pristine to start with!
> if you have any pre-existing scrapes or gouges, I could see where adding a plastic liner could potentially make rusting worse, because of holding in the moisture.
> 
> ...


Definitely a good point! Personally, I'd highly recommend removing all and any rust, then priming and painting, even clear coat for added protection prior to installing a liner. Then again, some people may not be up for that project and just want the liner in place as snow is sticking in the chute.

Another added benefit, it reduces the chute size/area, which can be important on the older models, as it helps channel the snow better and can aid in increased throwing distance, much like the tall narrow chutes on many newer machines. It worked great on my father's 80's model John Deere. My Yamaha had a torn up black plastic slide as a liner bolted in place when I bought it. I just installed a new one that fit much better and should also be longer lasting.



JLawrence08648 said:


> Paint does not rust, metal rusts, and it rusts when it is exposed. The metal gets exposed when it wears from abrasion in a spot, or chips, then water gets behind and moves along getting behind the paint rusting further and lifting the paint. By the insertion of a plastic liner over a good surface that is already good or has been properly prepared and painted using an oil based paint then caulked, there shouldn't be any rusting or deterioration of the metal.


Proper preparation is key in that. I don't expect the paint on my chute to last indefinitely before rusting again as I only removed what I could by sanding and with a wire wheel, not sandblasting or the use of a grinder to 100% new steel. The use of etching/zinc primer and a rust application paint will go a long way in providing protection though I expect it bubble out or rust to creep to the surface at some point.


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

The chute that I am using on my machine now is an Ariens 23" chute with my original 11" chute added as an extension. I need this to get the snow over the fence down along my driveway. The paint inside the 23" chute is fine. There are some small and minor scratches or dings, what ever you want to call them. No paint is missing. When there is a little paint missing, I touch it up. 

The original chute after 40 years of snow going through it, did lose paint, so I painted it. They get waxed a few times every summer and before a big storm. It takes care of the inside area just fine. I do not see why any one would have to add a plastic or metal sheet or... any thing like this? 

If your chutes inside is worn, repaint it and maintain it. Unless you have a gravel driveway, I do feel sorry for you guys who have to clear them. I would not know how to solve the problem of clearing them and keeping the damage down to a minimal, unless you just keep an eye on how much damage you get over the winter and then make corrections during the summer.


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## GregNL (Jan 9, 2017)

You pointed out exactly why one would want to install one, to eliminate painting it every time you get a rock chip or scratch. A micron film of wax is not going to protect the paint from such debris, especially if it's been repainted with just spray can primer/paint.

I was doing a neighbours driveway and sucked up a 2-3" piece of asphalt from the EOD the plow hooked up from a small newly formed hole in the road just a few feet away. I'm sure that scratched my now worn impeller housing that had pristine paint at the beginning of this season but my lined chute still looks new. I'm not about to remove the liner either as if I had a sudden change of mind that it serves no purpose. In fact, I plan to line the impeller housing as well. Unfortunately pristinely paved roads, curbs and sidewalks are not always the norm around here and perfectly flat driveways never stay that way so you never know what you'll encounter.

I've seen first hand on multiples machines the benefits, primarily paint protection and increased throwing distance.

What may be the ultimate solution to some is not always needed for others. That's like saying why pay for hand warmers when you can just wear gloves or options like LED lights when you can just turn on your outdoor lights. It's all in what you need to solve what's seen as an annoyance or problem.

Yamaha installs Teflon liners at the factory, for that I applaude them!


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## Kielbasa (Dec 21, 2013)

And I always wondered what guys were thinking when I posted that I check the street about 4 houses down in the late fall and I sweep up road debris so that this might possibly help with this problem. Well not any more.


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## RedYeti (Dec 22, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> Improving the Chute is of LARGE Consequence. Chute Upgrade on 10000 series is like Night and Day for Throwing Distance.


 Please tell me what year that blower is. I have one I'd like to restore and repower but can't find a parts explosion. Mine is an AMF Husky. If I can't find parts (tranny seals to start) I'll have to ditch it. Thanks.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Get an Ariens 10000 series for a Builder/Hobby machine... Parts are Easy. Mine is a Modded 1965.


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## wow08816 (Feb 2, 2017)

The UHMW plastic sounds like a great idea (if you're handy). I understand a couple of the high end snow blowers feature this enhancement. My problem is my mechanical skill set is limited to IKEA assembly. And if they don't have a youtube video on the process, then it is out of my realm.


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## RedYeti (Dec 22, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> Get an Ariens 10000 series for a Builder/Hobby machine... Parts are Easy. Mine is a Modded 1965.


 I have the machine already. Here are the pics. I can't begin until I know where parts are available. There is no mention of this model online. I'm hoping that this model has interchangeable parts with a similar size Ariens. If parts are readily available, I can begin the teardown. I have a GX160 (5.5) on another piece of equipment that can be swapped. Is it too small?


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## TheChemist (Feb 28, 2017)

We use UHMW for sled runners here. I have a sled with 3" x 1/2" x 10' runners, another with 8" x 1/2" x 14' runners. It is amazingly slippery stuff, and many different formulations available.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

RedYeti said:


> I have the machine already. Here are the pics. I can't begin until I know where parts are available. There is no mention of this model online. I'm hoping that this model has interchangeable parts with a similar size Ariens. If parts are readily available, I can begin the teardown. I have a GX160 (5.5) on another piece of equipment that can be swapped. Is it too small?


Good Luck Finding Parts for That.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

RedYeti said:


> I have a GX160 (5.5) on another piece of equipment that can be swapped. Is it too small?


What kind of snow do you get (dry/fluffy, or wet/heavy), and how much at a time? 

160ccOHV, 5.5hp is not a lot for a 26" bucket. My machine has a 318cc OHV, 10hp, for a 24" bucket, as a point of comparison. Although it's admittedly trying to provide fairly-high power, with a narrow bucket. 

If you get a few inches of fluffy snow, it will probably be fine. But if you get more, or it's heavy, I expect you'll have to go pretty slowly to avoid bogging the engine down. 

But you could certainly give it a shot and see how it goes. Or if the rest of the machine is solid, you could try a somewhat-bigger engine, like the $100 212cc Predator.


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## RedYeti (Dec 22, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> Good Luck Finding Parts for That.


 I can go on youtube to get those kind of comments. I'm looking for help, not smartass remarks.


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## RedYeti (Dec 22, 2016)

RedOctobyr said:


> What kind of snow do you get (dry/fluffy, or wet/heavy), and how much at a time?
> 
> 160ccOHV, 5.5hp is not a lot for a 26" bucket. My machine has a 318cc OHV, 10hp, for a 24" bucket, as a point of comparison. Although it's admittedly trying to provide fairly-high power, with a narrow bucket.
> 
> ...


 My first thought was to put a predator 212 on it. I have one on my tiller and it works great. This machine has tons of room for whatever I want to throw on. The problem is finding parts. If they can't be had, I'll move on to something else. Feels like a waste not to try, though. Any leads would be appreciated greatly. Thanks.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

RedYeti said:


> I can go on youtube to get those kind of comments. I'm looking for help, not smartass remarks.


I DID offer You Help, Suggesting you lose that White Elephant, and go with a More Parts-Friendly Machine. You Probably got that Machine for Free for that very Reason. Good Luck.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Jackmels said:


> Good Luck Finding Parts for That.





RedYeti said:


> I can go on youtube to get those kind of comments. I'm looking for help, not smartass remarks.





Jackmels said:


> I DID offer You Help, Suggesting you lose that White Elephant, and go with a More Parts-Friendly Machine. You Probably got that Machine for Free for that very Reason. Good Luck.


Jack - Whether one agrees with your assessment or not, you have a valid point and have made a reasonable and educated statement through experience and common sense. The exception, which was not disclosed, if this was going to be a vintage restoration. If just a snownblower to use and to get the job done, get another machine where the parts are easier to obtain! Offer the machine for free to someone who has same for parts, a LONG shot! Steel is going for 5¢ a pound.


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## GregNL (Jan 9, 2017)

Seriously, why does it seem like every topic started here on this forum turns into something else. Enough with the thread hijackings. :banghead:

2 Options are available: Either start a new thread to get peopled engaged on a specific topic or keep it to PM's to help each other out.

Now play nice and get along. ccasion14:


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Who died and Left You in Charge?


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## RedYeti (Dec 22, 2016)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Jack - Whether one agrees with your assessment or not, you have a valid point and have made a reasonable and educated statement through experience and common sense. The exception, which was not disclosed, if this was going to be a vintage restoration. If just a snownblower to use and to get the job done, get another machine where the parts are easier to obtain! Offer the machine for free to someone who has same for parts, a LONG shot! Steel is going for 5¢ a pound.


 Lets straighten this all out. Yes, the blower was given to me by my stepfather. Sadly, the retired mechanical and electrical engineer from Kodak cannot work on equipment any more. Vision is gone to the point he turned in his license. I thought it would be a great gift to give him finished and ready. Then you entered. JLawrence seems to be able to tolerate you and your comments, I will not. You are a difficult person and the most negative Dead fan I have ever come across, and that's a ton of good folks. It's not just what you said , but how you said it as well. Good or bad, please don't respond to my questions. I'll stay on my side of the sandbox, you stay on yours.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Not to change the subject, but back to our regular scheduled program - 

I was thinking about bending the plastic for an Ariens chute, and mine has 3 dimensional surfaces within the chute. I was wondering if it would be possible to heat up the chute and then be able to press in the "plastic" to have it form the 3D bends. Seems like I would need to borrow someone's Pizza oven, though ?

What do you think ?

Good segway, huh ?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Now he explained it. It has sentimental value and deserves a full vintage restoration or just to get it running and to look good. I would have helped him from the beginning but I have never dealt with this type of restoration work. Other than CL, eBay, and this forum, I have no idea where to look.

I supported JackMels because for the short time I've been on here, he's been 100% a gentleman and helpful with his responses. A knowledgeable man. And I am far from a diplomat. I am a in your face speak the truth guy who pisses people off for being such.

Can anyone suggest where he can go? And don't be sarcastic with my wording!


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

RIT333 said:


> I was thinking about bending the plastic for an Ariens chute, and mine has 3 dimensional surfaces within the chute. I was wondering if it would be possible to heat up the chute and then be able to press in the "plastic" to have it form the 3D bends. Seems like I would need to borrow someone's Pizza oven, though ?
> 
> What do you think ?


I am inexperienced with this and have asked the same question recently.

You use a heat gun, see my post regarding this past week. The melting point is 350F so a low end heat gun is fine, my understanding, very formable and very easy.


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## bumper (Feb 12, 2019)

Several comments on from earlier posts in thread. UHMW-PE is NOT the equivalent of Teflon (PTFE). UHMW is *much* stronger but slightly less slippey than Teflon. Teflon has less friction than UHMW, but is not nearly as strong to impacts. Use UHMW for reducing friction and anti-snow sticking in blowers - a 1" thick piece of UHMW will stop a 45 Auto (don't stand behind the plastic to test this! :c)

UHME, being mechanically strong, does not heat form well to compound curves (at least not without a compound curved heated mold). If you need to cover a compound curve, individual pieces may be used if the curved area, like the deflector on my blower, is comprised of simple curves welded together. UHMW does heat form easily to make simple bends. Heat until white UHMW starts to go clear, or goes almost so. Bend to desired angle and hold in place until it cools (you can spray with water to cool it quicker, or in some apps, clamp it in place until cool).

To determine dimensions of piece to cut for chute, for example, cut a narrow strip of the plastic and use a heat gun to form and clamp the strip in place. This will allow you to adjust the dimensions for the material "taken up" in forming the bend. With the test strip in place, use felt tip to mark center of each corner bend as well as the ends of that bend. This strip will serve as a guide for laying out the actual piece. (UHMW it too expensive to goof and waste that way.) 

Most adhesives or caulk will not adhere UHMW to whatever. UHMW tapes, with acrylic adhesives are available, but even 10 mil or a bit thicker is not thick enough to withstand stone or gravel impacts in this application, resulting in tears (I tried it on the inside of the deflector and it lasted a few hours) - it would last if you never pick up debris. 

I used 1/8" thick sheet on my tractor mounted blower. Used #8 screws. For longer lengths, be aware that UHMW has a much higher coefficient of expansion than does steel. So for a blower housing liner, you may have to attach one end fixed, while mounting the other with a slot in the plastic so it can lengthen or contract (I tested a roughly 5' length by putting it in freezer - measuring, then putting it in the hot tub (102*F). As I recall, delta-length was at least 1/2". BTW, the blower liner finally failed due to picking up a rock that impacted the acute bend of the liner whee as the impeller blade passes the chute opening to again enters the housing - kept working for one season in spite of the tear, but finally came loose.

The UHMW-PE the chute liner gained about 25% throw distance - good, and the chute doesn't clog. I'm not going to replace the blower housing liner just yet. It was a lot of work to make and install and that leading edge area, where it tore, would need a stainless steel guard. With the lijner gone, I've got 1/8" more of a gap to seal at the blades. I'm going to make seals, but instead of rubber, I'm using 1/8" UHMW-PE. Much stiffer than rubber, so I'm gonna have to just fill the gap, not much more. Advantage is I can make the "seal" to cover the whole face of the blade, so the blades won't clog in the slushy stuff. 

Here's a short vid of throw distance with medium density snow.


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