# Ariens: Adjusting Chute Height?



## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

I used my brand spanking new Ariens Deluxe 24" snow blower today for the first time. After some adjustments it worked great. I initially had the pin out of the left wheel so that I could make turns easier, but it was very difficult just keeping the machine in a straight line, so I decided to lock the wheel again. I also had to tighten the chute b/c when I rotated it all the way in one direction or the other, it would straighten out.

The one problem I didn't fix, however, was the lever that adjusts the height of the chute. When I tried to blow the snow lower, almost at the lowest setting, the lever would slip from the groove it's suppose to stay in. Why? And, how can I fix this?

Also, if I change the skid shoes from the metal ones that came from the factory to the composite type, the machine would "glide" along the driveway (typical asphalt) a bit easier. Any opinions on that?


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

Anyone?


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## Buford (Nov 11, 2011)

I have the plastic skids and love them. My new driveway is patio pavers and I did not want to scratch it all up.

& I keep my ariens with both wheels "locked in" and never had any problems turning.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

I have used the steel and the composite and the composite hands down glide better over the cement/blacktop. I have used composite skid shoes made from UHMW polyethylene. It is much slicker than steel, will not mar your driveway and has better wear properties than steel. 

currently i am using UHMW roller skid shoes on my blower and they are working great.


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

CarlB said:


> I have used the steel and the composite and the composite hands down glide better over the cement/blacktop. I have used composite skid shoes made from UHMW polyethylene. It is much slicker than steel, will not mar your driveway and has better wear properties than steel.
> 
> currently i am using UHMW roller skid shoes on my blower and they are working great.


I've never heard of roller skid shoes. How do they work? Do you think they will hold up over time? Where did you buy them?


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Smolenski7 said:


> I've never heard of roller skid shoes. How do they work? Do you think they will hold up over time? Where did you buy them?


I built the roller skids on my snow blower out of UHMW Polyethylene. 

It has better wear properties then the mild steel regular skids are mad out of and since they are turning and not dragging I suspect they will last a very long time.

There are some commercially available roller skids on the market. Do a search on Ebay. I can't however speak to their quality.


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## Smolenski7 (Nov 24, 2010)

CarlB said:


> I built the roller skids on my snow blower out of UHMW Polyethylene.
> 
> It has better wear properties then the mild steel regular skids are mad out of and since they are turning and not dragging I suspect they will last a very long time.
> 
> There are some commercially available roller skids on the market. Do a search on Ebay. I can't however speak to their quality.


That's an ambitious project. How did you do it? Any picts?

It seems like there would be a lot of people on this forum that would be interested.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

here is a link to another thread on this board with pics of the roller skids. They are pretty self explanatory. Original type steel skid cut to fit the roller that was made from 1" thick 12x12" UHMW polyethylene (amazon.com) by cutting it with a hole saw. The stud was welded to the original skid and thats pretty much it.

Link Below

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/general-snowblower-discussion/619-roller-skids.html


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## JerryJ (Jan 11, 2012)

I can't answer the skid question yet. But as far as the chute question is concerned.. an easy fix.

When having an adjustment on these chutes you want a slight amount of tension 
1) *Tight* enough to hold the tension after you've adjusted it to your liking
2) *Loose* enough so that you're not struggling to adjust it.

Most all snowblowers that I have seen have a square hole on one side of the shoot (while the other hole is round).
The square hole is designed to accept a carrage bolt, square meets square and they lock.
On the opposite end you should use a self locking nut, whereas, when it's installed it holds its own tightness/tension. A larger flat washer, on the nut side, might prove to be benificial.

Let me know if that addresses your question.
As for the other skids I'll have to look into that


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## fronos4 (Jan 29, 2011)

The deflector control lever gets its tension from a thru-bolt connected to the drive lever underneath the dash. I've noticed by design the lowest deflector control puts a lot of strain on the lever, but never had an issue of it popping out of the notch. There's a spring at the end, you can adjust the nut to increase or decrease tension. (The image below is off a Platinum 30, from what I can see other models with remote deflector control should be similar)

I have the Ariens composite skids, it does help reduce the friction on pavement, much easier to maneuver around than the steel ones.


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## CAPTAINCONSUMER (Feb 18, 2011)

*I have roller-skid info*

Just back from a couple weeks in florida. If your questions about commercially available roll-r-skids remain unanswered i have three posts under "forum" section ("pimp my snowblower" threads) with pics of the skids installed on my '71 ariens.

On the few occasions i have used my snowblower the skids have worked fine. 

Roller skids are available from rcpw for $29.99 a pair.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

I dont see any point to roller skids..
couldnt they freeze up or lock up? then they wont turn, and you will wear a flat spot on them, making them useless..

also, IMO they are "a solution without a problem"..
regular skids work perfectly fine..even metal ones..they glide across a thin layer of snow while in use, very little friction, and my steel shoes have never made the slightest mark on my driveway..

not seeing any point, or reason for roller skids..
I dont see how they could be any better than normal skids, (which really dont have any issues) and they can potentially be worse, if they freeze up..skids have been working fine for 50 years..

just because you *can* change something, doesnt necessarily mean its an improvement! 

Scot


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## CAPTAINCONSUMER (Feb 18, 2011)

*The joy of roller/skids......*

Some people are very careful regarding their concrete surfaces (i don't use salt) and if $29.95 makes them feel better rolling their machine--ok.

My roller/skids make it easier to move the unit around in the off-season. Also, when i go between the 7 driveways i recently cleared, the street was wet and it was easier to maneuver the machine.

Over three snowfalls, 21 concrete driveways, 3 long gravel driveways, working in temps from 13 degrees, the roller/skids neither jammed or froze. The wheels are replaceable.

Are they necessary?...probably not. Practical?.....maybe. They are part of a cheap hobby that keeps me busy during the winter. 

Note:

The roller/skids on my machine are paired with armor skids....the best of both worlds!


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## abumpa (Nov 21, 2010)

sscotsman said:


> IMO they are "a solution without a problem"..
> regular skids work perfectly fine..even metal ones..they glide across a thin layer of snow while in use, very little friction, and my steel shoes have never made the slightest mark on my driveway..
> 
> not seeing any point, or reason for roller skids..
> ...


Agreed…

I too do not see the need for roller skids. My ST1336LE Ariens has heavy thick steel skids that will not wear out in 100 years of the use I give it. 

When I move the unit around slight down pressure on the bars lift the skids off the ground making it easy to maneuver.


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