# Ariens 924125 - 11.5 HP Tecumseh OH318SA Question



## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

If anyone could send me a picture of a properly installed throttle and carb [connections to the governor, etc] it would be greatly appreciated. I picked one up and it appears to me that the internal carb return spring [connected to the governor lever] broke so instead of fixing it they put an additional spring on it. The pic below does not do it justice, but it is my attempt.










Horrible, I know, apologies, the blower is not currently stored in a very convenient spot.
But I digress, if you have this model, or this engine and can send me a pic I would appreciate it.
If you need additional info on which Snow King 11.5 engine it is, please let me know. The expanded parts diagrams of the assemblies I could find weren't very helpful, maybe there are better versions.
Thanks in advance for any help.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Hang on,
Here are better pix of the current connections. The one spring appears to be broken but is it even supposed to be there?


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

So I decided to just tear the whole damn thing down and clean it up. I installed the new carb and have figured out how it all goes together. Going to take a look and see if 
order a new spring for the throttle connection.




























I am a big fan of the Tecumseh Snow King engines, maybe because I have rebuilt so many of them. Need to investigate an issue with the drive/auger pulleys next. it will be easy to power wash the whole thing and diagnose mechanical issues now that the engine is off.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

wow, you sure did tear it down

On the one i just bought, the spring on the right was not on my machine. and the left spring was stretched More than yours...got me thinking...... that does NOT mean it mine is right.

I had to mess around alot to get it right, carb was bad and I think someone was in there....gov was wierd. I think I got it now, and i get 3500rpm. it still doesnt start like a older tecumseh, certainly not like a honda...YET. strange spark plug....dont know why its an oddball number.

they sure put those torx heads for carb in a "great place".lol


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

harry398 said:


> wow, you sure did tear it down
> 
> On the one i just bought, the spring on the right was not on my machine. and the left spring was stretched More than yours...got me thinking...... that does NOT mean it mine is right.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input. I just couldn’t help myself. I don’t know much about Ariens blowers but this one seems pretty sound and has all the features I want in a blower. Granted it is about 4-6HP bigger than I really need, but hey, what the heck.
The machine is in great shape, just really really dirty and unmaintained. Should be fairly quick to get it up and running as it should. Now I hexed myself…


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

I noticed your engine, and mine...lot of oil around on it. prob the open breather. I am so used to honda gx engines I play with on other machines, vent into carb box, always clean unless beat to death and a head gasket leak.

I am assuming that is a 1 inch crank....if you get that pulley off...

what is the model # of the blower?

let me Know what you end up with on springs on that carb. curious.
I ended up having to adjust the high speed on the throttle handle (torx t-9) and I got it to 3500rpm. was 2900. i dont know how the previous guy had any power.....most people think they got it right.....


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

I cleaned it up a bit and put it back together.
I didn’t put the carb cover on it yet as I may have to adjust it further. I think I have the carb/throttle//Governor set up correctly.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Northeast Dave said:


> I cleaned it up a bit and put it back together.
> I didn’t put the carb cover on it yet as I may have to adjust it further. I think I have the carb/throttle//Governor set up correctly.
> View attachment 179584
> 
> ...




yup, that looks like mine now.

let me know what rpms you get out of it?

snap a pick of the gov arm when your done?

thanks


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

harry398 said:


> yup, that looks like mine now.
> 
> let me know what rpms you get out of it?
> 
> ...


I don’t have anything to check rpms. I can’t get a pic of the Governor arm as the cover is on but the connection to the arm is in one of the shots above. I’ll let you know how the throttle assembly works with the new carb after adjusting.
It’s a model ST11528LE.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Looks good ...


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Completely forgot to take pix, but took it apart and hit it with the power washer, cleaned up pretty nice.
Put it back together (temporarily as I have to replace the scraper bar and fix an auger fan bent blade) just so I could mount the engine and fire it up. 
Turns out it was just a bad adjustment in the throttle spring, once I opened it up a bit (I adjusted the Governor prior to reassembly - sorry Harry398 didn’t take pix) it fired up and settled right down. I changed the oil while it was on the bench. Once I get the new scraper bar and bolts I’ll take apart the auger again and set that straight. Looks like it will be a nice machine this winter. And the heated grips both work.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

unsure what you mean-"you opened up throttle spring"

are you getting more than 3500rpm? put a tach on it? im thinking i need more spring pressure on that arm, or i need to cock back that 2 piece governor more to rear of engine. really want more than 3500.......


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

harry398 said:


> unsure what you mean-"you opened up throttle spring"
> 
> are you getting more than 3500rpm? put a tach on it? im thinking i need more spring pressure on that arm, or i need to cock back that 2 piece governor more to rear of engine. really want more than 3500.......


The spring has a hook at each end to connect it. I spread out the connection hooks, which in essence made the spring longer when slack (it was too tight). Now there is enough room for the Governor arm to move back into an idle position (with the tighter spring it was always pulling the Governor arm). So I say I “opened it up” as the spring is now longer than it originally was.

I don’t check the RPMs of my machines. To me it either throws snow well or it doesn’t. I’m a factory spec guy so I don’t get into any custom stuff or tweaking for more horsepower, the most I do is fart around with the carb.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

I did exactly the same thing with that spring. it was not allowing the engine to idle as it was pulling the carb open.

good luck with your machine


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

harry398 said:


> I did exactly the same thing with that spring. it was not allowing the engine to idle as it was pulling the carb open.
> 
> good luck with your machine


Thanks Harry, engine seems to run fine now but hard to tell until it's under load.
I ordered a new scraper bar as the old one was shot. Once that arrives I'll tear apart the auger.
What type of grease to you use in the auger gear case?


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

entire discussions on that, but seems many use the cotton picker..... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-cotton-picker-spindle-grease-00


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

harry398 said:


> entire discussions on that, but seems many use the cotton picker..... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-cotton-picker-spindle-grease-00


Thanks, yes it seems like it would be a question that would start a _lively_ debate on here.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

CHECK AUGER GEARCASE IMPORTANT: Proper oil level must be maintained. Gear cases are filled to the correct level at the factory. Unless there is evidence of leakage, no additional lubricant should be required. Check oil level each season or every 25 hours of operation. To ensure adequate lubricant level: 1. Remove filler plug (Figure 10). Lubricant must be at least up to bottom of lubricant filler hole with unit resting on a level-surface. 2. Add lubricant if required. Allow oil to drain to level of plug and replace plug. IMPORTANT: Use only Ariens special gear lubricant L-2 (Part Number 00008000).

its now L3 . Amazon.com : 2 Pk OEM Ariens L3 Synthetic Gear Lube Snow Blower Snow Thrower L1 L2 00068800 : Garden & Outdoor

I dont know what that ariens fluid really is, *BUT I am absolutely sure if someone asks Mobil, they will get a answer. * I had these questions with my cat pressure washer pump, and ended getting the proper oil from Mobil.

*bronze gears.....well, its common on racing engines with roller cams (a bronze distributor gear)...and guess what is the lubricant? engine oil. *

but.....https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28958/ep-additives-effects

but many use other stuff....and I am no expert....*but no fluid is the worst. or dried up crap.*... anything is better than nothing....and there are vids out there with cases having Nothing in there.

im going to get to that soon. 1 of my current machines is like yours...alum case... 

i dont like the heat anymore, been 95f....i cant work in that crap.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

harry398 said:


> CHECK AUGER GEARCASE IMPORTANT: Proper oil level must be maintained. Gear cases are filled to the correct level at the factory. Unless there is evidence of leakage, no additional lubricant should be required. Check oil level each season or every 25 hours of operation. To ensure adequate lubricant level: 1. Remove filler plug (Figure 10). Lubricant must be at least up to bottom of lubricant filler hole with unit resting on a level-surface. 2. Add lubricant if required. Allow oil to drain to level of plug and replace plug. IMPORTANT: Use only Ariens special gear lubricant L-2 (Part Number 00008000).
> 
> its now L3 . Amazon.com : 2 Pk OEM Ariens L3 Synthetic Gear Lube Snow Blower Snow Thrower L1 L2 00068800 : Garden & Outdoor
> 
> ...


Checking the oil on the gear case oil level was on the list, just not there yet. The engine is all good, once I get the new scraper bar I ordered it will give me the motivation to tear down the auger.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Northeast Dave said:


> Checking the oil on the gear case oil level was on the list, just not there yet. The engine is all good, once I get the new scraper bar I ordered it will give me the motivation to tear down the auger.



i just pulled off the bolt on the case. a bit low, stuck a wire tie in it..and smelled it. *sure smells like gear oil.* certainly not a thick grease. i sent a question to mobil. I have no problem paying for ariens oil, but at 24 bux for 2 8oz. .its pricey. * but if it is in fact something special.....ok....*

I have a quart of gl4 synthetic here......so i really dont want to drop $ on something that i dont need. 

Safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage

MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil



seems GL4 is what you want , if your going to use gear oil. 
The main difference between GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils is the amount of EP additives. Sulphur/Phosphorus containing products are used as EP-additive. This additive has the purpose to prevent the occurrence of micro-welds on the gear flanks at the local high temperatures which prevail in EP circumstances (temperatures well in excess of 800℃!) GL-5 has roughly twice the amount of EP additives compared to GL-4, which is why it is often used in high-pressure circumstances such as in a front axle and rear axle differential.

Sulphur/Phosphorus additives however have an unfavourable property: they can react aggressively towards bronze and copper. This can be disastrous for the synchromesh rings of a gearbox. Therefore it is not recommended to use GL-5 in a gearbox unless the manufacturer allows this.

To conclude:


GL-4 is suitable for hypoid gear service when they are under severe service but are without shock loading.



https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/updates/the-differences-between-gl-4-and-gl-5/




gl4 post 8 Tech Question - Ariens Two Stage Blower Auger Gear Box


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks Harry, I’ll revisit this when I get the auger taken apart. Got the new scraper bar the other day so I need to take off the auger and break it down.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

Update on this one. Put new scraper bar on, greased it up, took the auger apart and replaced the pulley brake.
Seems to run fine now. Auger and drive seem to work fine. I’ll take another look at it in the fall when I wax it up.
Then I’ll do what I always do. Use it this winter and see if I like it. If I do, I’ll fix all the little annoying things on it and keep it, if I don’t then I’ll sell it and find another one to try out.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Northeast Dave said:


> Update on this one. Put new scraper bar on, greased it up, took the auger apart and replaced the pulley brake.
> Seems to run fine now. Auger and drive seem to work fine. I’ll take another look at it in the fall when I wax it up.
> Then I’ll do what I always do. Use it this winter and see if I like it. If I do, I’ll fix all the little annoying things on it and keep it, if I don’t then I’ll sell it and find another one to try out.



nothing wrong with flipping a few , taking apart and fixing and seeing if you like the machine. I do it too. some really nice things on this machine.....l like the placement of the chute adjuster-heated grips and locking axels. its light to move too.

I am going to keep my ariens 28 SHO though....i got it set up nice.....cant keep them all. I will say the Ariens units are sooo much superior to the MTD-craftsman units that I have worked on. no comparison.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

harry398 said:


> nothing wrong with flipping a few , taking apart and fixing and seeing if you like the machine. I do it too. some really nice things on this machine.....l like the placement of the chute adjuster-heated grips and locking axels. its light to move too.
> 
> I am going to keep my ariens 28 SHO though....i got it set up nice.....cant keep them all. I will say the Ariens units are sooo much superior to the MTD-craftsman units that I have worked on. no comparison.


Agreed. I am working on a Honda HS50 that I gave a test run last winter and liked so I’m rebuilding it. This one doesn’t need the overhaul that the Honda did/does (it’s in progress), but they all can be an investment if you’re keeping it for yourself, or at least for me.
I’ve never had heated grips, curious to see what that’s all about.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

ive seen some honda's for sale. $$$$$$$$. to be frank, I think the newer ariens with the honda clones are a good choice. simple engine,easy to service, seem solid. Not Honda quality, but good enough so far. If a honda passed by at a low price, I would try it out. The Honda has some issues that I am not crazy about, primarily a short handle bar. I am 5'8", not really tall, but i like things a little higher. Also, track drive has its advantage, but also disadvantge..in that if your machine goes in a shed in back yard, those tracks will prob tear up the turf. no thanks.

The Honda does through it far...(I think its mostly impeller tip speed) and the engine IS extremely reliable. I am a diehard honda GX fan, very strong engine.

Even the Honda benefits by the impeller mod. 

this tecumseh OHV....seems ok....but I know its no Honda beater. if it was, they would still be in business. Mine runs good, but they didnt think it through like Honda did.


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