# Craftsman Dark Green 9hp Tecumseh Snowblower: Can't adjust speeds properly



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

This is that classic straight axle dark green friction drive chain sprocket drive snowblower that makes up the majority of youtube videos. This SB is not rocket science. 

*But after removing the hex shaft to free up a rusted drive slider assembly, I cannot get the speeds adjusted properly.*

When I attempted to adjust the drive speeds, I could not get a good "neutral position" AND a full range of forward speeds (1-6).

If I set "neutral" correctly (F1 & R1) same distance from drive disc center), I would have to slot the bottom lever hole AND the bottom angle bracket hole to get the shift lever into the proper detents.

However, if I did this, F6 cannot be reached. (If I set up at F6, then neutral is way, way off.)

Nothing looks bent, missing, or assembled improperly. 

Even if someone bent something trying to bull the shifter through the rust, the pivot points would not have been changed and some combination bending/slotting should achieve proper speed ranges.

But that is not possible.

At this point I'm baffled.

Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks
Tom


----------



## TV8270 (Feb 15, 2021)

May or may not help, but look into it... The drive disc driven by the large belt pulley will have a grease fitting/zerk on the shaft. You have to rotate the motor slowly to see it on top of clean plate inside the gear box. Give it a light shot of grease. Similar concept to automotive ball joints/tie rods (when they were serviceable). It will pressurize and push the disc down. Put a shim/putty knife between the disc and rubber wheel.


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

Trying to understand what you are explaining. First, you are giving instructions but what is the goal - what are you trying to achieve with this process?

And I don't understand "Put a shim/putty knife between the disc and the rubber wheel."

I was also looking for evidence that the rubber tire was replaced improperly or with wrong tire that would result in a shift in the contact point on the disc.


----------



## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Had the same machine with same issue, turns out the drive disk was put on backwards, the drive wheel was cupped to the left instead of right I think it was, none the less I just flipped it over and all adjustment issues went away.


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

What model number Craftsman, (not the bucket numbers 10/30), but the 917.xxx or 536.xxxx, 247.xxx numbers? Guessing 536. model as you mention chain. "Usually" if you see the failure of getting to both sides of the platter that you describe, the friction wheel/carrier assembly was put on backwards like Dauntae mentioned. You run out of real estate both ways, the carrier bearing runs into the sprocket and the shift fork running out of tilt the other way. It could be just the wheel backwards or the entire carrier sometimes on these style. Pictures of the open belly area would help too.


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

Dauntae said:


> Had the same machine with same issue, turns out the drive disk was put on backwards, the drive wheel was cupped to the left instead of right I think it was, none the less I just flipped it over and all adjustment issues went away.





oneboltshort said:


> What model number Craftsman, (not the bucket numbers 10/30), but the 917.xxx or 536.xxxx, 247.xxx numbers? Guessing 536. model as you mention chain. "Usually" if you see the failure of getting to both sides of the platter that you describe, the friction wheel/carrier assembly was put on backwards like Dauntae mentioned. You run out of real estate both ways, the carrier bearing runs into the sprocket and the shift fork running out of tilt the other way. It could be just the wheel backwards or the entire carrier sometimes on these style. Pictures of the open belly area would help too.


SCORE! YES. The tire was put on the outboard face of the flange BUT it was the concave upped face that touches the flange. It needs flipped. I'll post a pic shortly. (DAMN, pulling that hex shaft is a PITA..... Rrrrrr)

This is great. Solving a nagging problem always makes my day.

NOTE: I'm going to unbolt the tire and see if I can flip it w/o totally removing the hex shaft. It may be possible. I'll update.

*WARNING: The following pic is an INCORRECT installation: the rubber tire is installed BACKWARDS: **EDIT 3/7/21: This is CORRECT INSTALLATION - the problem theory at this time was incorrect - basically in this blower R1 and F1 are NOT EQUIDISTANT from the drive plate.*


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

MrCreosote Ha Ha Ha. How did you come around to pick that?

Many moons ago I hauled Creosoted RR timber back from Va. on a flatbed. I hauled for a private RR restoration place.
We bought old and repaired old gauge RR track and switches and sold them to the Scenic RR's in the East. Anything old gauge. We took a lot out of old Army bases. Got them at scrap prices, work trains, machines, rails, points, frogs, etc.
We hauled and repaired a lot of RR track machines. Painted 2 old diesel locomotives in the yard too.
Long story short.
The real old Creosote, was some nasty stuff to work with.
I would classify it as a corrosive/poison.
The ties and timbers were hard to keep from slipping on the trailer. 
Chains everywhere and they would still want to slide back in transit.
Talking up to 40' RR timbers, soaked in it, not an enjoyable trip.
Toss your gloves a lot too. They were ruined from doing one load. 

I wished I had carried a camera back then for the scenic RR's we serviced.


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

Well, nothing is as it seems.

I flipped the tire and fastened to the outboard face of the flange and now _it's too far the other way - when in 6th gear, the tire hit's the chain - the snap ring on the hex shaft does not stop the sliding assembly before the tire hits the chain - on the other side, when in R2, the shift lever has to be bent because the the snap ring on that end of the shaft contacts the sliding assembly before the lever is at the R2 detent._

I don't think it is possible to fenagle the tire to the inboard side of the flange - but that is all that is left to try (I think it might work) but what really begs the question is: did they put the wrong tire in it? The owners manual has 2 adjustment dimensions for the speeds, Tire Size / Distance "A": 12 & 13 / 4-1/8 and 16 / 4-5/16.

The owner's manual parts figure clearly shows My PIC Above is CORRECTLY ASSEMBLED.
Here is a pic of the correct slider w/correct tire assembled:


----------



## TV8270 (Feb 15, 2021)

MrCreosote said:


> Trying to understand what you are explaining. First, you are giving instructions but what is the goal - what are you trying to achieve with this process?
> 
> And I don't understand "Put a shim/putty knife between the disc and the rubber wheel."
> 
> I was also looking for evidence that the rubber tire was replaced improperly or with wrong tire that would result in a shift in the contact point on the disc.


----------



## TV8270 (Feb 15, 2021)

Glad you got it all figured out. The backward drive disc. Presto ! If it's per the manual then you cant be wrong. Who assembled the drive gears and put things in backwards ? You asked me early on what I'm trying to achieve. The answer is nothing. Only trying to help. If everyone had all the answers, you wouldn't be here now. Let us know how it turns out so we may learn from your example. Be sure to grease the trunnion bearings.


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

TV8270 said:


> Glad you got it all figured out. The backward drive disc. Presto ! If it's per the manual then you cant be wrong. Who assembled the drive gears and put things in backwards ? You asked me early on what I'm trying to achieve. The answer is nothing. Only trying to help. If everyone had all the answers, you wouldn't be here now. Let us know how it turns out so we may learn from your example. Be sure to grease the trunnion bearings.


No, it's not figured out. The pic of my tire/disc is the way it was and THAT is CORRECT according to the manual and the eBay part. In that configuration, I have to butcher the shift lever holes and will not get F6.

When I said what was your goal, I mean this: someone can explain how to do some complex series of steps but you have to know what the goal or purpose is such as: remove starter, adjust pinion preload, etc. and I simply didn't get the putty knife between the tire and disc - I don't know what that would do because sitting there, the knife would fall to the ground since the tire is not contacting the disc.

I'm going back out in the garage to stare at it some more....


----------



## TV8270 (Feb 15, 2021)

With all sincerity and respect, if you did everything correctly per the manual, you wouldn't be having issues. Don't start bending and banging. I understand procedure and there isn't much available like you would find step by step like in a automotive Chilton/Haynes. This is a you tube link to a machine likely similar to yours. Worth looking over and there are a ton of great resources. You'll get it done !


----------



## TV8270 (Feb 15, 2021)

BTW, a guy on you tube under Danyboy 73 has tons of excellent tutorials on all small engine things...


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

I've been looking for tutorials for many hours - probably man days now. There is nothing to indicate there is anything wrong.

I did flip the tire 180* and bolted on outboard face of slider flange which looks completely wrong in countless sources, however I get a half decent NEUTRAL Adjustment with the 4-1/8" gage distance specified in the manual and a good F6 but there is no way to get the shift lever into R2, "R1.5" is the best I can get.
Reiterating, this is clearly with the tire IMPROPERLY INSTALLED.

I checked the part number on the tire and it is correct.

So far I was assuming the slider trunnions which the shifter fork slides over are NOT OFFSET relative to the Hex Shaft. I don't have the slider on the bench to measure precisely but that would be a very Dirty Trick if it was true.

I also found the the bolt on the sprocket collar was too long and impacting the tire when in F6. Everything would be free spinning and then a "soft" abrupt stop, Took me 15 minutes to find that one. So: WRONG bolt -OR- I have F6 too lose to the sprocket? What is really troublesome is that there is a fair amount of thrust plan in the Hex Shaft (1/16" maybe) and the Hex Shaft Snap Rings do not stop the slider assembly from running into the chain when in F6 - they do stop it when in R2.

BENT PARTS: Since the slider was frozen on the hex shaft, it is hard to say if the previous owner(s) may have bent something trying to shift it. I can't see any evidence, but it is a possibility.


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

I'm going to have to give up for a while. My blower is a 536.887993 and I've had it assembled as in this video of a 536.887990 




With the rubber wheel flipped, I can get close to a neutral lever adjustment w/o bending, slotting, etc.

In the photo you can see the rubber wheel attached with "dish out" incorrectly and positioned at the 4-1/8" gage point for the small tire blowers. At the proper 4-5/16, the left rubber edge is at the driven plate CL. Usually F1 & R1 are equidistant from the CL. So this gage measurement makes no sense.










Grasping at straws, I'm trying to determine if I have the correct sliding assembly.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Clean the friction plate with alcohol, sand with 120-150 grit, clean again with alcohol.


----------



## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Your friction disc going past the end of the plate tells me that you need to reverse it back to the way it was. Then you may want to try disconnecting the linkage, set the selector to neutral, and manually move the friction disc assy. to it's neutral position (centered on the plate), then adjusting the linkage accordingly so that it can be re-connected with both the selector, and friction disc in their neutral positions.


----------



## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

The video you linked was painful to watch on so many levels.
Anyway.
If your axle bushings are worn at all you will chase your tail all day trying to measure a point from another item to the sprocket. You can literally change it while you measure. Attempting to make R1 and F1 the same distance from the center is pointless. ALL you want is 2 notches on one side of center and 6 on the other without running into things. The inside "cup" of the rubber wheel should go toward center as schneetag mentions. And as mentioned the linkage has to be bent or out of alignment to have the problems you state.
Here note how out of center the linkage has become.
Attached video is not your model internally, but he makes repairs where yours will need to the exterior linkage.


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

MrCreosote said:


> I'm going to have to give up for a while. My blower is a 536.887993 and I've had it assembled as in this video of a 536.887990
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That video s ucks. lol 25 mins long, 22 mins undoing bolts.
But he did have parts left over. ha ha ha


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

TV8270 said:


> BTW, a guy on you tube under Danyboy 73 has tons of excellent tutorials on all small engine things...


I think you spelled it wrong? 
It would be Donyboy73?


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

oneboltshort said:


> The video you linked was painful to watch on so many levels.
> Anyway.
> If your axle bushings are worn at all you will chase your tail all day trying to measure a point from another item to the sprocket. You can literally change it while you measure. Attempting to make R1 and F1 the same distance from the center is pointless. ALL you want is 2 notches on one side of center and 6 on the other without running into things. The inside "cup" of the rubber wheel should go toward center as schneetag mentions. And as mentioned the linkage has to be bent or out of alignment to have the problems you state.
> Here note how out of center the linkage has become.
> ...


Thanks for the video - I've been searching for ones like that but never found any. I wish he had shown the tire position after adjustment - it looks like his R1 and F1 are similar in speed.

Yes, I'm giving up on R1 and F1 equidistant "calibration point".

I'm going to put tire back to original position (obviously.)

I will try to find a shift lever adjustment that centers the slider assembly range of motion between the 2 hex shaft snap rings which limit slider travel so it doesn't impact the sprockets.

Hopefully F1 and R1 are NOT on the same side.

I'll get this done today and report back.

NOTE: 2 on one side and 6 on the other is basically what someone got Husqvarna to say when they were trying to set speeds and there was no adjustment.

I did have mice too HaHa: (Note the original shift lever adjustment)


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Damn, busy little fellows huh?
What is all the white crap? Paper?
I would have sprayed it down with a disinfectant real good.


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

Big Ed said:


> Damn, busy little fellows huh?
> What is all the white crap? Paper?
> I would have sprayed it down with a disinfectant real good.


Yeah, it was packed solid. It was in an outside shed - I'm not sure what they used that was nearby (I wasn't expecting mice!)

I really hate it when they get into cars. They eat wire insulation and their pee accelerates rusting to the point of actual holes in the body. One car they filled a rocker panel with "stuffing" causing it to rust out. This was an 87 Chevy Turbo Sprint that was _rust free - _that _really pissed me off!_

Anyhow back to the FINAL SOLUTION:

Put the tire back to correct position and adjusted shift lever so I got full travel from F6 to R2. This coincided with full hex shaft sliding assembly from snap ring to snap ring. (NOTE: This setting pretty much agree with he owners manual gage dimension to be set in F1 and is academic since there is ONLY ONE position that gets full travel in the shift lever.)

The result is that F1 is _barely on the Forward side of the drive plate._ Check out these pics of F6, F1, R1, R2:










I have to clean up the drive plate, but I expect this machine will try to run me over in R1. I may grind a R0 detent between R1 and F1 - it would be a good position for a slow Reverse.

I cannot believe how NOT equidistant from the CL, F1 & R2 are. I also have a modern EZ Steer Craftsman 26" with the 208 cc engine and they are perfectly equidistant.

NOTE: I was pleased to find that my Big Green has the hitch pin on one wheel so I can make it free wheeling to help maneuver this lummox.


----------



## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

note that an equidistant R1-F1 measurement may not equate to similar speeds for the 2 gears. When running, the whole transmission often forces all of the mechanical slop to one side or the other, changing the positions from where you set them when not under tension (if this makes sense ??)

tx


----------



## TV8270 (Feb 15, 2021)

Big Ed said:


> I think you spelled it wrong?
> It would be Donyboy73?


Yes, sorry about that. Was trying to go off the top of my head. Danny boy, the pipes are calling. Figure if he searched it he would find the right place (?).


oneboltshort said:


> The video you linked was painful to watch on so many levels.
> Anyway.
> If your axle bushings are worn at all you will chase your tail all day trying to measure a point from another item to the sprocket. You can literally change it while you measure. Attempting to make R1 and F1 the same distance from the center is pointless. ALL you want is 2 notches on one side of center and 6 on the other without running into things. The inside "cup" of the rubber wheel should go toward center as schneetag mentions. And as mentioned the linkage has to be bent or out of alignment to have the problems you state.
> Here note how out of center the linkage has become.
> ...





oneboltshort said:


> The video you linked was painful to watch on so many levels.
> Anyway.
> If your axle bushings are worn at all you will chase your tail all day trying to measure a point from another item to the sprocket. You can literally change it while you measure. Attempting to make R1 and F1 the same distance from the center is pointless. ALL you want is 2 notches on one side of center and 6 on the other without running into things. The inside "cup" of the rubber wheel should go toward center as schneetag mentions. And as mentioned the linkage has to be bent or out of alignment to have the problems you state.
> Here note how out of center the linkage has become.
> ...


Thanks for the link ! Love the educated engineers here that can answer every question !


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

paulm12 said:


> note that an equidistant R1-F1 measurement may not equate to similar speeds for the 2 gears. When running, the whole transmission often forces all of the mechanical slop to one side or the other, changing the positions from where you set them when not under tension (if this makes sense ??)
> 
> tx


Yes, it does make sense. It will be interesting to see how F1 & R1 compare. 

I'll button it up tomorrow, but since it's been in Service Position (standing on end), I might let it sit normal for 24 hours for oil to go back where it's supposed to. (Or is that not an issue?)


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

UPDATE: Drive plate resurfaced, fuel shutoff valve installed (B&S part), and unit put back on its feet. Will let oil drain back overnight. Test drive tomorrow.


----------



## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Can you _please_ oil that rusty chain? I cringe every time I see it!


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

Oh, it's totally full of Fluid Film. Yeah, it's gross. All the pulverized rust is like brown pigment now. It won't wash off with soaking blasts of carb cleaner. Can't wipe it off either. The solution would be to remove the chain and give it a good ultrasonic clean. 

This Speed Adjustment problem pales when compared to the armature failure, diagnosis and repair I did. If you want to share the torture you can check it out - looks like I have a working theory why all those starter armatures fail. Another electric starter thread (37000)


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Add a little grease to the friction wheel shaft too?


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

I have a dry molycote on the hex shaft. It was severely rusted, slider frozen. Had to scrape the rust off with a piece of tool steel. Now slick as a whistle.

Is it possible to store these in the service position (standing upright on auger housing?)


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

If it's a Tecumseh which it is, Yes; if it's a Chinese engine I find that some leak gas in that position. Just let it sit for a minute before you start it.


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

JLawrence08648 said:


> If it's a Tecumseh which it is, Yes; if it's a Chinese engine I find that some leak gas in that position. Just let it sit for a minute before you start it.


Yes, it's a Tecumseh and that will be a big help storing this beast. 
I do have a Craftsman 26" w/208cc Chinese engine, but I plan to put a fuel cutoff on it. 

RE: Fuel Cutoffs: The Black and Red plastic ones - even the B&S's. The generic Chinese ones seem to leak, frequently after a year. And even some complain about the B&S ones. I put a Stens on my rider mower and it was very stiff to turn and does not appear to be leaking. The new B&S I just purchased is very easy to turn. One person complained that the o-ring was not big enough to seal. A leaky shutoff is NOT a good thing.​
I would consider add "steering technology" if the opportunity presented itself. A number of people have said it is easy in some cases when a newer model added the feature. I wonder if any of the Dark Green Craftsmans had it?

One will have to go eventually. Probably Big Green. The joystick chute control is just too convenient -I surely spent over 25% of my time adjusting the throw distance on Big Green, but boy it can throw the snow - way better than the 26"

I need a barn.


----------



## MrCreosote (Feb 10, 2021)

MAIDEN VOYAGE: Does Not Move in F1 - in fact once it kicked the speed lever into R1 which was quite the surprise.

F2 is nice and slow so I'm done. NOTE: Maybe a new friction tire with the narrow width at tip might move @ F1 but I can't see that repair happening.

It really doesn't make much sense. The shift lever detents just seem to be in the wrong position. Midway between F1 and R1 is the perfect place for a slow R1 - current R1 will run you over if you aren't ready - it could be an R2 and then rename current R2 to R3.

I wonder if someone makes that Dark Craftsman Green spray paint???


----------



## Sgthawker (Nov 19, 2019)

Yes, they still carry, that paint but it is pricey:

The Craftsman Polo Green is paint code 0689. The Paint to order from Sears Parts is 150020. (new Part #582974901).


----------



## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Picture seemed to show a bit more room to move things. F6 will get faster, r1 and r2 will slow down, and f1 will work. Hopefully lining things up too!


----------



## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

MrCreosote said:


> MAIDEN VOYAGE: Does Not Move in F1 - in fact once it kicked the speed lever into R1 which was quite the surprise.
> 
> F2 is nice and slow so I'm done. NOTE: Maybe a new friction tire with the narrow width at tip might move @ F1 but I can't see that repair happening.
> 
> ...


You were right in the middle of the disk..and it bucked back.adjust it to get a decently slow first range ..and the rest is what it is.
Ideally if you can get reverse to be reverse and F ranges to go forward ..you are good...I go for as slow a first gear as I can get away with before if flips back to reverse..I only use first when I am crowded around new cars

Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


----------

