# HSS1332ATD questions



## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

Well, I’ve gotten many recommendations here that I have acted on and surely appreciate this forum. Here’s two rather innocuous and seemingly random questions.

First, hate to even ask, but as I have been on the learning curve about handling my new rig, in the initial instances of trying to maneuver over these first 4.5 hours in near moments of hectic confusion, I have at times with the clutch engaged gone from forward to reverse. Now, this most probably is an absolute bad idea, but dare I ask if this is actually an action really bad for the hydrostatic drive? I’m thinking I need to go to neutral and release the clutch and auger control before changing directions. Whaddya think?

Second, before I took delivery I ordered a set of Falline skid shoes for the auger housing thinking it would help me not damage my concrete driveway or help not tearing up my lawn that I plow for my dogs to use as a play area in the back. Now the 1332 has the rear housing Black shoes and perhaps I don’t need the side shoes although the holes are there. Is the redundancy a good idea? Will the side shoes put tracks in my grass? First season out of the box so I have no experience. Thoughts? I have read about the “paint stirrer“ clearance concept but the black rear shoes already provide that.

Delta


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## ST1300 (Feb 17, 2017)

I can answer the first question easily. No you cannot damage any mechanicals when shifting from forward to reverse or vise versa with the drive lever engaged. The squeeze hand lever only tensions the belt that drives the hydraulic pump. The forward/reverse lever moves a spool valve to direct hydraulic oil from the pump to one side of the hydraulic drive motor or the opposite side and to do so it moves first to close the directional valve then opens to the opposite direction. 
And some might say yes you can, if you have a wheeled blower and were rolling it down a slope as fast as possible on a dry pavement for traction and slammed the lever from one direction to the other, the weight of the machine could have enough inertia to damage something in the drive train, most likely the gearing or shafts, but not the hydraulics. If you have a tracked unit I doubt it could ever get enough speed or inertia movement to ever damage anything. 
(This answer is based on 7 years of machine shop work, in rebuilding hydraulic cylinders, pumps, motors, valves and misc. hydraulics.)


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## Spyle (Oct 24, 2017)

Hi, well for the second question, I can answer, as I own a HSS1332 ACTD (AATD for US) and the simplest answer is: Yes it is a second protection in addition of the rear skids BUT the rear ones are not snow skis either. The paint steerer method is perfect and it should be noted that it is for the paved path and not the grass. For blowing on the grass, you have to adjust the thumb lever on the left hand side in order to raise or lower the bucket at the desired position to blow on grass. This is what I do and it works perfectly. When you are to blow on the paved path, a simple push on that same thumb lever and then lifting the handlebars allow the bucket to go right down to the pavement for a clean driveway. When I say the side skids are a second protection I mean, the side skids are not an obligation to be installed but it could prevent, in some instances, having your bucket damaged by an uneven paved terrain, that occured to me a few times and I don't regret a bit having them installed. Hope it helps.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

Both question answered with confidence. Thanks. two more things checked off. 👋


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

I’ve found that the best shoes overall for a track machine is the rear skids. Too bad they don’t make poly rears. I lined mine with uhmw pe. I have Honda poly side skids installed but I keep them adjusted way up only to keep the augers from scraping ground when extra traction is needed in dig mode. 

With the HSS machines you don’t have to adjust the shoes for the lawn. Just tip the bucket up a smidge. I like to keep 3” of snowpack when doing my yard.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

I had the urethane side skids and they were ok. I switched to the armor skids on the sides. They protect the bucket well when I am working against rock retaining walls or curbs. They also work great when making paths for the dogs on the grass. They keep the bucket from digging down. I also left the back skids in place. To me they help when I’m dropping off a curb to the street or going over uneven sidewalk slabs.


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## Arcticnorth (Nov 27, 2020)

My HSS970 was delivered without side skids, but with the mounting holes. The first thing I did with the new machine was to mount Falline skids (Armorskids are on the way). I have adjusted the back skids a few millimeters higher than the side skids. I think the side skids give me more precise control, and when I blow on grass or uneven surface I adjust them a bit higher, it takes me 30 seconds. To further protect the auger housing I have also mounted car door edge protection:


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I went with the Arnold roller skids on the sides and after much trial ended up raising the rear skids slightly higher to improve the handling, as @Arcticnorth mentioned. I also have a couple of pairs of unused HDPE reversible skids as backups if needed. After 4 seasons, I need to clean up the edges of the auger housing and install the protective edging, which I already have.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> I went with the Arnold roller skids on the sides and after much trial ended up raising the rear skids slightly higher to improve the handling, as @Arcticnorth mentioned. I also have a couple of pairs of unused HDPE reversible skids as backups if needed. After 4 seasons, I need to clean up the edges of the auger housing and install the protective edging, which I already have.
> View attachment 176599


Yeh, I got the type from Falline without the wheel. It did come with the backing plate and hardware. May be an after season fitting as it was -2 degrees here this morning and thinking I’ll wait For warmer weather.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

ST1300 said:


> I can answer the first question easily. No you cannot damage any mechanicals when shifting from forward to reverse or vise versa with the drive lever engaged. The squeeze hand lever only tensions the belt that drives the hydraulic pump. The forward/reverse lever moves a spool valve to direct hydraulic oil from the pump to one side of the hydraulic drive motor or the opposite side and to do so it moves first to close the directional valve then opens to the opposite direction.
> And some might say yes you can, if you have a wheeled blower and were rolling it down a slope as fast as possible on a dry pavement for traction and slammed the lever from one direction to the other, the weight of the machine could have enough inertia to damage something in the drive train, most likely the gearing or shafts, but not the hydraulics. If you have a tracked unit I doubt it could ever get enough speed or inertia movement to ever damage anything.
> (This answer is based on 7 years of machine shop work, in rebuilding hydraulic cylinders, pumps, motors, valves and misc. hydraulics.)


Interesting info. I did not know this. Could the same be said on the older HS models with the final drive gearbox or right side tranny as it is called? Especially in tracked models which has more gears? That power shifting on the go from forward to reverse and then forward again could possibly cause problems? I advise owners against it.

Am I wrong? I have had to rebuild a number of these gearboxes with chipped teeth or gears and/or excessive wear ( presumably from abuse or water in case )


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> Yeh, I got the type from Falline without the wheel. It did come with the backing plate and hardware. May be an after season fitting as it was -2 degrees here this morning and thinking I’ll wait For warmer weather.


Well, now my OCD (manufactured) has me thinking I should get those wheeled versions! Perhaps the hardware with the backing plate will work. 🤦🏼‍♂️ And I thought I was so smart....😖


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> Well, now my OCD (manufactured) has me thinking I should get those wheeled versions!


Just realize that the Roller Skids require drilling one new hole on each side of the Honda. I have the offset mounting brackets below that are no longer available that adapt them to the Honda 60mm = 2-3/8" spacing and the Roller Skids are made for 2-3/4" to 3" bolt centers.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

tabora said:


> Just realize that the Roller Skids require drilling one new hole on each side of the Honda. I have the offset mounting brackets below that are no longer available that adapt them to the Honda 60mm = 2-3/8" spacing and the Roller Skids are made for 2-3/4" to 3" bolt centers.
> View attachment 176626


Well....that may be a deal breaker for me then. Not sure I want to penetrate that pristine, perfectly red base. I’d prefer to use the pre-drilled holes. Plus, I just noticed that the entire order I received fro Falline is OEM, right down to backing plate and instructions. They say to remove the rear black skids which I’ll leave and may raise like Articnorth did but that’s about it.


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## Breckcapt (Jan 4, 2017)

Breckcapt said:


> Well....that may be a deal breaker for me then. Not sure I want to penetrate that pristine, perfectly red base. I’d prefer to use the pre-drilled holes. Plus, I just noticed that the entire order I received fro Falline is OEM, right down to backing plate and instructions. They say to remove the rear black skids which I’ll leave and may raise like Articnorth did but that’s about it.
> 
> oh,man, apologies: I got these from ProParts Direct and NOT Falline. I must have had the other in my mind. $62 if anyone is interested. 🙊🙊
> 
> View attachment 176638


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## Chasboy (Mar 7, 2021)

I know I want to do something with the skids, but I’m concerned about the armorskids riding up on certain types of snow. However I <must> do something about the side contact with the curbing. I was going to make a bracket to accommodate skate wheels, but I think they were not worth the work because they could freeze up too.


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