# TroyBilt snowblower drive problem



## Skeeder1964 (Dec 20, 2013)

Hi, a guy I know has a 9.5 HP Troybilt snowblower. I believe it is a 28" wide one. I have the model number but not in the house right now. When he pushes the handle down to engage the wheels it won't go. The plate seems to not hit the part hard enough to engage the wheels. Even when you pull the cable to give more pressure it won't work. The tension wheel doesn't seem to move good enough to create the pressure it needs. What could be the problem with it??? I don't have a book that shows exactly what it should look like there.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Skeeder1964 said:


> What could be the problem with it???


It is built by MTD 

It probably just needs the cable adjusted shorter. Also, make sure the wheel that it rides on when it turns into the bottom of the blower isn't bending. Another thing to do is tip it up and pull the bottom cover. Make sure the rubber wheel inside is in good shape with no cracks or missing pieces. Make sure the metal disc is clean and not covered in grease.


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

The cable pulls a bracket on the back or underside of the machine. It can only be adjusted so much before it hits another part and bottoms out. The friction wheel is probably worn too far down to make up for it with an adjustment.

Take the bottom plate off and check the wheel. It helps that you cant keep adjusting it as eventually it would be metal on metal and destroy the drive plate.


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## HH4 (Dec 18, 2013)

Check the bearings or bushings on the ends of the shaft that the friction wheel slides on. Too much play can allow the shaft to move away from the drive disc and reduce the contact pressure of the friction wheel on the disc.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Hopefully you don't have a full tank of gas and you can tip it forward on it's auger. You need to pull 4 or 6 screws from the cover of the transmission and you can inspect the friction wheel.

This is a worst case photo. This was how (why) I was given mine. The rubber ring that should be sandwiched in the friction wheel had come out and they continued to use it for a substantial amount of time, one or two years .
"ya, I saw aluminum shavings under it" 

The now rubber-less friction wheel ate up the aluminum drive plate. Yours hopefully might be that oil or grease got on the face of the plate and the rubber is slipping on that or an adjustment where the handle when pulled down should pivot the aluminum plate up against the friction wheel with enough pressure it doesn't slip is not pulling it up enough. With that cover removed you can operate the drive lever and see what's going on.
If there's something wrong in there it isn't that hard to repair or replace.

If you post the model number maybe we can help you find a manual with the instructions on adjusting your drive cable ?? when the handle is pulled down that spring in the picture on the right of the drive plate should be extended a certain amount. That is the tension against the friction wheel.

If you do tip it up I would recommend taking the bolts out that hold the wheels on and greasing the axles. If you do need to go into the transmission to make a repair there is nothing worse than not being able to get the wheel off to gain access. It's something to do yearly (end of season) right along with getting some oil or grease between the augers and their drive shaft. If yours are fitted to the axle the way mine are.


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