# John Deere rubber friction disk changed in minutes



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I have a real John Deere 1032. The rubber friction disk is so easy to replace, it only takes minutes. 

With the machines I've worked on, there's a hex shaft that goes through the center of the friction disk. It goes from the left side to the right side of the machine. To remove this hex shaft, you have to remove the wheels, remove a bolt that holds a gear on, remove the end bearings that hold the wheel axle shaft on, remove the axle, slide the gear and chain off the hex shaft, remove the hex shaft, then washers fall out from a fork, remove the rubber friction disk. The hard part is putting everything back together! And what a greasy mess!

With the John Deere made machine, the hex shaft does not go from the left side to the right side. It only goes part of the way across. There is 3"-4" of room between the friction disk and the inside side of the machine. At the end of this shaft of the John Deere is the rubber friction disk. You remove the one bolt in the center of the disk holding it on, remove the disk, put the new one on, the one bolt again, you're done. Minutes and it's not greasy, not dirty, you could do it in your Sunday best! Really.


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

have you ever worked on a 924000 series ariens? same setup


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Same thing with the 80s and 90s Bolens/Troy-bilt units, easy as pie.


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## Copper116 (Jan 24, 2015)

I have a 1980 J.D. 1032. It appears mine won't be hard to change either. Question tho: I checked my clearance between the friction wheel and the disc. It's at the required .016" gap. It's also in the center of the disc. But when in gear, it won't move. What is the thickness of the rubber on your NEW friction wheel? What is the total diameter of the friction disc? Mine appears worn down and glazed over which I'm attributing to the problem but I want to make sure before I go to replace it. Thanks.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Copper116 said:


> I have a 1980 J.D. 1032. But when in gear, it won't move. What is the thickness of the rubber on your NEW friction wheel? What is the total diameter of the friction disc? Mine appears worn down and glazed over which I'm attributing to the problem but I want to make sure before I go to replace it. Thanks.


When in gear it shouldn't move.
Thickness I don't know, it's outside but it's the same diameter as the old one.
You should always stop the machine when shifting, don't shift while the machine is moving, it wear down the rubber fiction disk.
If it's glazed over, use sandpaper, you do not want to remove the rubber, only removing the glaze.
If it's in gear, there should be pressure against the friction wheel and friction plate, if so, it's not worn enough to replace. Turn the wheel and watch how things move. Put it on the ground in gear and see if you can pull it backwards.


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## Copper116 (Jan 24, 2015)

I worked on my buddies Ariens but it didn't need any work to the drive system... mostly just bearing/bushings.


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## Copper116 (Jan 24, 2015)

I was loading my 1032 J.D. (1980) on my trailer to ready it for transport to a repair shop to get an axle pin removed. On a side note... I called a J.D. dealer and they get $58.00/hr. I called a 2nd dealer... they get $100.00/hr !!! Must be some service there!!
Anyway, I had the machine in neutral and it rolls nice in forward motion but try to pull it backward it won't budge!!! What should I check next to correct that problem?


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