# Impeller Mod Drilling Tips



## dmwesq (Dec 17, 2020)

I have decided to do an impeller mod to my Craftsman snowblower. I cut the rubber pieces, and was ready for drilling. I am using a corded drill, but I have tried with a variety of drill bits and I can barely put a dent in the impeller blade. Any tips for drilling through?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Start with a 3/16" bit then go bigger, or start with 1/8". Buy a new drill bit.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would say a better drill bit, and start small or use a step bit. I don't believe that is made of hardened steel.

LOL, ... I tried drilling through one of my hardened core plug spoons for my aerator last week ... needless to say, nothing worked and I did not have a diamond drill bit ...  .... when they say hardened, they meant it.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

i always start small and work my way up to the final size. making the pilot hole can be tricky but making the hole larger is super easy once you got a hole made.


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## dmwesq (Dec 17, 2020)

I was starting small, but maybe not small enough. I'll get a new bit in the am and give it another try. Although some of the bits I tried have very little use on them.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

a little pit of oil also helps. that way you are less likely to burn up your drill bits.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

I always use a nice long 1/4 drill and 1/4 bolts. I’ve never had to drill a smaller pilot hole. Oil will definitely help, but a sharp bit is a must.

I also always make a template, make the plate and rubber seal, predrill the holes in the plate, clamp assembly to the impeller blade and clamp in place. Keeps the drill from walking and everything lines up nice. Bolt and move on the the next blade.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

+1 on the cutting/tapping oil and starting small and working up to your fastener size.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

dmwesq said:


> I have decided to do an impeller mod to my Craftsman snowblower. I cut the rubber pieces, and was ready for drilling. I am using a corded drill, but I have tried with a variety of drill bits and I can barely put a dent in the impeller blade. Any tips for drilling through?


I used the self tapping screws

Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

I had to use 1/8" long drill bits to start then moved to larger ones. The Milwaukee drill bits are the best and last the longest. I added the auger mods on 3 machines and tested out 2 of them and while I thought it would blow snow further with the throttle on WOT it actually works better at 1/2 speed and blows snow much further. I will say adding the paddles is well worth the work.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Shovel said:


> I used the self tapping screws
> 
> Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


My luck ...one of those self-tappers would end up in my truck tire. Actually, it would end up in my wife's tire...she's a magnet for punctures  .


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

dmwesq said:


> I was starting small, but maybe not small enough. I'll get a new bit in the am and give it another try. Although some of the bits I tried have very little use on them.


depends on bit. I use a 11/64th HSS drill bit with cutting oil. be sure to go slow. cuts better that way. I just did an impeller kit yesterday. 6 holes about 30 seconds each.

patience.have learned the hard way using too much speed and not using cutting oil

now I use a drill hog , dewalt, or knkut hss drill bit. others here may use others.always looking to learn about new tools,methods etc.


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## dmwesq (Dec 17, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> I always use a nice long 1/4 drill and 1/4 bolts. I’ve never had to drill a smaller pilot hole. Oil will definitely help, but a sharp bit is a must.
> 
> I also always make a template, make the plate and rubber seal, predrill the holes in the plate, clamp assembly to the impeller blade and clamp in place. Keeps the drill from walking and everything lines up nice. Bolt and move on the the next blade.


Could you elaborate on this a little? I'm not sure I follow completely on what/how you are making the template. Also, I read somewhere 3-in-1 oil can be used - do you put the oil on the bit or on the surface to be drilled?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dmwesq said:


> I read somewhere 3-in-1 oil can be used


That's for sewing machines; use real cutting fluid: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Cutt...j4e0t5QKrHQ6OmiwSQ4aAsGOEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Q: What are the differences between light and dark cutting oils?
A: Clear cutting oil is a blend of high quality mineral oils with sulfur base, and is used during manual or low rpm threading on small sizes of steel or brass piping. Clear cutting oil will not stain copper or brass materials either. Dark cutting oil is a blend of high quality mineral oils with sulfur-lard base, and is used when using high speed threading machines on all sizes of pipe. It's also excellent for HSS drilling.


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## vmax29 (Oct 19, 2017)

Use a spring loaded punch to start the bit. It helps the drill start and keeps it from wandering. Carbide bits cost a bit more but last when drilling hard metals. Dark cutting or threading oil like Tabora mentioned is great.


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

dmwesq said:


> I have decided to do an impeller mod to my Craftsman snowblower. I cut the rubber pieces, and was ready for drilling. I am using a corded drill, but I have tried with a variety of drill bits and I can barely put a dent in the impeller blade. Any tips for drilling through?





dmwesq said:


> I have decided to do an impeller mod to my Craftsman snowblower. I cut the rubber pieces, and was ready for drilling. I am using a corded drill, but I have tried with a variety of drill bits and I can barely put a dent in the impeller blade. Any tips for drilling through?


As the others have said start small work up. expect to go thru a bit or two. I'd use a template next time myself. And cutting oil. My impeller was strong stuff and laughed lustily at self tapping screws.. And in my case, my rechargeable drill spins way faster than my corded drill.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

classiccat said:


> My luck ...one of those self-tappers would end up in my truck tire. Actually, it would end up in my wife's tire...she's a magnet for punctures  .


So far mine have stayed put..the rubber kinda works as a lock washer

Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

carbide bits not those cheap yellow tin coated ones from harbor tools and elsewhere that have problems drilling into wood. with out burning up, 

as good cutting oil if in a bind that we all have around our homes for our cars is ATF,


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Tips . . .

Assuming that you add the rubber paddles with the impeller in the machine housing (as most of us do) . . .

- Remove the chute and all of the related housings, etc.​​- Check to see if the chute mounting adapter/housing has a flange (or other obstruction) that protrudes into the housing slightly as it may interfere with the rubber paddles.​​- Brace the impeller so that a blade is exposed at the chute exit for drilling access and that it will not move as you drill​​- Use good drill bits . . . Cobalt  . . . and oil as needed.​​- Use masking tape over the blades - measure and mark the drill hole locations. You should be able to drill 1/8" or 3/16" holes. Go easy until you get an indentation in the steel started, then you can apply more pressure on the drill.​
The Craftsman impeller should be fairly easy to drill through, unless it is an old machine where they used thicker steel.


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

Stick a piece of masking tape and drill through it.This will prevent the drill bit from sliding off.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Remove the chute
lock the impeller/pulley
center punch the spots you need to drill thru on the flites
use an aircraft drill bit..... I use a sharp 1/4" bit, with no starter hole

GLuck, Jay


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

JayzAuto1 said:


> use an aircraft drill bit..... I use a sharp 1/4" bit, with no starter hole


Are aircraft drill bits sharper, last longer, harder, or longer length?


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

This thread inspired me to get some small cobalt and carbide drillbits for pilot holes.
Thanks - I guess.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

I'll add that you should avoid trying to drill through existing spot welded area if you can. Else persistence, a good drill and bits, the right pressure and coolant/cutting fluid are keys to success.

Cheap drill bits will locally harden the steel as they stop cutting. If your bit is spinning but not drilling, STOP, change bits, slower drill speed and a 'bit' more pressure.


I've been tempted by those stepped drill bits -- seems like less likely to break if I get a little too aggressive with the pressure. Thoughts/experience?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dr bob said:


> I've been tempted by those stepped drill bits


I have not used those... I usually use a starter drill AKA center drill AKA countersink bit (below) and then come back with a standard HSS drill bit to finish the job.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Save a lot of work and effort, use a "Split Point" bit.
If you do it right, you will not need to center punch it or start with a smaller bit.
The "Split Point" will keep itself centered and not "Walk Around" on you, it will start drilling like it was center punched and they cut/drill much faster.
You don't have to run them at a high speed, sometimes a lower speed works faster and better for them, a good idea is to keep them lubed/cooled with cutting oil, but a good split point bit will drill right through the steel without being oiled, but you will run them hotter. You don't have to run them at a high speed, they will cut in and drill fast at a low speed, probably even faster, and definitely faster than a standard point bit at a high speed.


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## Pedalspinner (Dec 26, 2020)

dmwesq said:


> I have decided to do an impeller mod to my Craftsman snowblower. I cut the rubber pieces, and was ready for drilling. I am using a corded drill, but I have tried with a variety of drill bits and I can barely put a dent in the impeller blade. Any tips for drilling through?


I used a tool steel center punch, larger punch, carbide center drill, then step up to final screw shank diameter. (Keep drill tip from burning up by keeping it lubricated with cutting oil, motor oil, anything to help it out. Even WD40 spray)




It was a slog, but eventually the reinforced rubber did its think.

Snow throws literally twice as far.


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## DEWFPO (Oct 18, 2013)

Can someone please post a link to this mod?

Thanks, DEWFPO


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## Bob O (Oct 16, 2020)

When drilling metal, always go SLOWLY (low rpm) and use oil. Relax pressure to clear chips. Repeat.


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## SnowGuy69 (Feb 12, 2014)

I had to drill holes in a stainless steel for my trailer. The yellow titanium were yellow, not that expensive and really didn't work. I picked up a set of Cobalt bits. Much more expensive and worked much better.


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## dmwesq (Dec 17, 2020)

I took all the advice from this thread, followed some of it, wish I had followed some more of it, and am almost done. I have one stubborn bolt that I can't get back on and that is the last thing in my way before testing the mod out. Oh yeah, I will need some snow for that, but first the bolt.










It seems the bolt will not fully seat so it just turns as I try to tighten the nut underneath. By the way, getting these two nuts back on may be the hardest part of the whole process. I guess I can just try another bolt, but I'm curious what some of you have found at this stage, and any tricks for getting these two bolts back on and tightened.

Once I'm up and running I'll post some things I learned to hopefully help out others who view this thread.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

do you got a better pic of what is wrong? are you pushing the carriage bolts into place before trying to tighten them? on my snowblower i had to cut a couple of the old bolts off so i used all new carriage bolts with regular nuts first followed by nylon nut


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## dmwesq (Dec 17, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> do you got a better pic of what is wrong? are you pushing the carriage bolts into place before trying to tighten them? on my snowblower i had to cut a couple of the old bolts off so i used all new carriage bolts with regular nuts first followed by nylon nut


I was outside so won't have a better pic till tomorrow. Pushed it as far into place as it would go - I'm think I should just replace the 4 bolts for this piece.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

it might just be easier to do that. it is only about $1 or less of hardware. that is also part of why i used regular nuts followed by nylon nuts. the regular nuts spin on all the way easily so can get the nylon nut on without any fight.


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## hunter548 (Jan 3, 2014)

dmwesq said:


> I was outside so won't have a better pic till tomorrow. Pushed it as far into place as it would go - I'm think I should just replace the 4 bolts for this piece.


I did the impeller mod to an Ariens 926 about 7 years ago. Works well, but you may want to leave about a 1/16" gap or so between the rubber pieces and the housing. What happened was wet snow/slush and even fluffy snow remained in the housing on the rubber pieces. 

If you park in an unheated garage, I found the snow will melt a bit then freeze the rubber to the housing. The 926 only has one impeller shaft pulley belt and I was going through two belts a season. Tried Sno-jet and other lubes, but I found I had to try to break the impeller free manually before starting the engine which helped, but didn't help enough until I trimmed the ends of the rubber pieces. It's better, but belt wear is still there to a degree.


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## bibeaud (Jan 1, 2021)

Did the modification yesterday on my MTD made Columbia C224
1) Make a template - looked at YouTube videos posted by Garage Gear. Cutout rubber flaps from straight Toro paddle.
2) Remove the chute and trim plastic that goes inside the auger discharge opening
3) Leave chute bolts in place to line up one rubber flap on auger.
4) Center punch marks to drill on all auger flat surfaces.
5) Used Titanium Step Drill bit on plug in drill with 3n1 Lubricating oil. Drill slow. Frequent stop to lubricate. Drill all auger flat surfaces.
6) Mount all flaps to auger using 1/4-20 stainless bolts with 2 washers above flap, 2 smaller washers and lock nut below.

I did not do this step - "Use masking tape over the blades - measure and mark the drill hole locations. You should be able to drill 1/8" or 3/16" holes. Go easy until you get an indentation in the steel started, then you can apply more pressure on the drill." I saw this hint today and I wish i did this. Center punch marks are hard to see inside a garage when drilling (and I block the light)


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## dmwesq (Dec 17, 2020)

So, so close to being done. Replaced the bolt and managed to get it secured. Put the chute back on and bolted everything together, and was ready to put the snowblower away and then noticed the handle for the chute now squeaks like crazy, and a part of the chute hits the clean out tool when you turn it. I've attached some quick videos and a photo. It all appears to be on properly, but I'm sure I'm missing something.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

dmwesq said:


> the chute now squeaks like crazy, and a part of the chute hits the clean out tool when you turn it.


Mount the tool the other way? Are the chute flanges mounted correctly?


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## dmwesq (Dec 17, 2020)

tabora said:


> Mount the tool the other way? Are the chute flanges mounted correctly?
> View attachment 172994


Sometimes the answer is just that simple. So mounting the tool in the opposite direction did indeed cure that issue. Only item left is the squeaking by the handle. I tried some penetrating spray on it but still squeaks.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

funny enough i had the same issue the other day with the stupid chute clearing tool.it was completely stopping me from rotating my chute the 1 way. 

its really hard to say where that plastic creak is coming from in the video. i would guess hopefully once it get some moisture into the joints the creak will stop. you could try hitting the joints with wd40 or whatever spray lubes you might have.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

The auger mod sure does work very well on my Murray 24" blower, throws snow over 20ft. in the air today. Best thing I ever did to any of my machines. Told my Son his 24" Yardman is next in line for the mod.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

The tools I have seen mounted on a bucket are always higher than that on the bucket ... that is the first one I have seen with a tool mounted down into the bottom of the chute.

Then again, I don't have a mounted clean out tool on any of my machines. I would assume that tool placement was mounted wrong.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

JLawrence08648 said:


> Are aircraft drill bits sharper, last longer, harder, or longer length?



The aircraft bits as I know them, appear to be normal HSS Bits, But are 12" long. They stay fairly sharp, if used at normal speeds and lubed during use. Being 12" long, allows me to quickly drill thru the impeller thru the chute hole. Really speeds things up, as I do it to all the machines I sell. Plus as an Add-On Sale to others I service. I got my bits from Snap-On many year ago, and keep them sharp. But they are also available at good home centers, in the hardware section, under the Irwin Brand.

GLuck, Jay


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## dmwesq (Dec 17, 2020)

Just to update the thread - after finally getting some decent snow to work with, my snowblower seems to be doing well. I'm not getting crazy distance on the machine but I'm getting significantly better than I was. Oddly some snow still trickles out the front of the machine so I sometimes have to go back over the area, but that's a minor concern. No clogging in the machine, and no caked up snow/ice inside clogging anything up. The machine is actually running extremely well and getting the job done.


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## bibeaud (Jan 1, 2021)

Impeller mod worked great. Thanks to the YouTube videos posted by Garage Gear! The snowblower threw snow very far on my Columbia C224 (had to bo over 40 feet). Must of got close to 30" of snow thanks to this Nor'easter that hit New Jersey the past three days. I was out 5-6 times using the snowblower during this storm. One time the snow was up to the top of the bucket (22"). Most time i used this snowblower since I purchased it in 2018. Never used it last year.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

An alternative to the longer aircraft drill bits is the hex drill driver bits then buy the hex extension which comes in different lengths and you have the extension for other things, as if you don't already own the extension.


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