# Hunting, popping - dirty carb or what?



## Lscp (Jan 22, 2012)

Hi, all - new to this helpful forum.

Picked up an Ariens 9526DLE a couple of years ago, and have been very pleased with it. Store it summers with full tank of gas and Sta-Bil. Ran it for a while this fall to test and change oil - worked fine. Used it in one small storm a few weeks back, still fine. Yesterday cleared 3" of light snow, and it was not happy.

Even after warmup, RPMs bounce around at low or high idle, and runs sort of rough under load. 

I just pulled the spark plug, which looks fine. Drained the float bowl, but no water or other junk. Running with the cover off shows fuel spitting back through the carb every time RPM cycles down. Lucky the muffler next to it doesn't throw sparks!

Can someone more experienced with carb repairs here tell what's wrong? Do I need to break down and clean the carb, replace the jet, or what? Got a few days to play before the next snow.

Thanks very much for your help.


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## Lscp (Jan 22, 2012)

Engine is OH318SA, if I read the fine print right. Didn't see a number on the carb.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

I just dealt with one doing almost the exact same thing. They said it was sputtering and leaking fuel, turned out it wasn't leaking but rather puking gas out like yours is.

Took it all apart and cleaned it thoroughly found some small grit in it, after i got it back together i realize this particular machine had no inline fuel filter. So i cut the fuel line and added one. Purrs like new now, and hopefully the filter will keep the crap in the tank from causing it again.

While you have some downtime, pull the carb, go through it good, and you should be fine! I store mine with Stabil too, never had a problem until i got some bad gas once that had what looked like fine grit in it, fuel filter got plugged up and it wasn't getting enough fuel, sounds like yours is getting plenty just needs a cleaning!


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## Lscp (Jan 22, 2012)

Wow - no fuel filter? That seems like a false economy.

Thanks for sharing your experience, kb0nly. I'd hoped to avoid a teardown, especially since I'd rather not buy a service manual. Any chance I can clear the grit or whatever without having to tweak all the set screws? Rather not buy a repair manual, if it can be avoided. Or maybe instructions for settings are on the web someplace? I checked under new and old (OHSK110) engine numbers, didn't find anything. Is there a generic guide someplace?

Appreciate the advice.


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## tuffnell (Dec 1, 2011)

If you have access to a local library, see if they have a manual.
Many libraries have inter library share so it might be a place to go to save yourself some $$.


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Take a few minutes to look at this list, you might find your carb among them.

Small Engine, Lawn Mower, Snowthrower Troubleshooting, Repairs and Safety

Also, check out some of this guys videos. He covers them pretty darn good.


















If those don't help, he's got lots of others.

donyboy73's Channel - YouTube


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## Lscp (Jan 22, 2012)

Thanks - those are good videos. I'd found some others, too. 

To be honest, I was hoping for a quick fix for just the next couple of months. Then I can take my time with breakdown, cleanup and re-installation without the pressure of incoming storms. I thought maybe pulling screws and blowing air in through various holes might dislodge something and get it working smoothly for now. With maybe 25 hours total on the machine, plus careful use of stabilizer, I didn't figure on carb problems so early. 

From various articles on the Web and forums, it sounds like the idle jet is a likely suspect. I might just try pulling that one, blowing both ways, and see what happens. We have a warm day coming up mid-week, so that would be the time to mess around with it.


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Try putting some Sea Foam in the gas. You might even try pouring (actually a dribble) a bit directly into the carb while the engine is running. I did that once with the old Suburban in my avatar, and it did smooth things out. That could be the trick you're looking for.

Does your snowblower have an inline fuel shut off valve? I've added one to some of the machines I have. This allows me to turn the gas off and run the carb dry. The operator's manual for my snowblower says to run it dry if it is going to be stored for 2 months to 1 year.


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

I would bet its probably a dirty jet or passage way. And yes believe it or not some of these ones in the stores now don't have fuel filters inline, a lot of them have a strainer built into the gas fill, like the chinese honda clones have. Just looked at some in the store the other day, didn't see a fuel filter, opened the gas cap and is has the mesh strainer bowl. I think a fuel filter, total cost of a few bucks, is still worth it on machine!

I would also like to comment on running the carb dry... On the older machines this was a good way to keep it clean and free of gas related problems while stored... However i have found on the newer machines this is bad bad bad.... 

Every time i get one in to work on that was "stored dry" every season it usually has condensation built up in the bowl, and usually some corrosion starting on all the parts. The other problem is some of them, varying by age, the seal for the bowl would shrink and leak the next time fuel was put in, thats easily repaired with a modern rubber seal, but still it happens.

My moto is treat and keep wet. I have had far far far less problems with treated gas in the carb then no gas at all. Just treat it, make sure to run it for a while so treated gas is thoroughly worked through the system and park it. Run it every month for say 10 minutes in the off season. I know some think its a pain, but an engine thats allowed to sit no matter how you prepare it is bound to develop some problem over time. I run everything once a month, even the weed eater gets run in the winter!


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

kbOnly is right, there is more than one way of thinking when it comes to storing small engines. The debate can almost get as charged as one about which oil is best. I know I've talked to people around here where I live, who subscribe to both ways of thinking, and I've done both, and been lucky enough to not have problems at the beginning of the next season.

Guess I should have clarified when I made reference to my snowblower, which is a 1999 Honda with a GX160 engine. I read a couple of manuals for newer Hondas, and they go into almost a full page discussion of what today's gasoline can do over time, and actually give two different options for storage, but don't necessarily recommend one over the other. One involves putting stabilizer in the gas, filling the tank, and running the engine for 10 minutes to insure the stabilized gas gets into it. The second is to completely drain the tank and carb.

Probably best to check with the manual on your machine, but even that becomes kind of a sticky issue as the age of the machine is considered, and evidently blends of gas vary from region to region. I did the usual "google" thing and found this blog article written December 13, 2011, so it's pretty recent.

http://www.jandjsmallengine.com/_bl...ore_Equipment_Away_for_Long_Term_Like_Winter/

Note the recommendation this guy gives at the end. Still, I'm thinking I'm going to consult with a few small engine folks in my area to see what they have to say. 

But back to your problem Lscp, I'd try the Sea Foam trick to maybe avoid a tear down for now.


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## Lscp (Jan 22, 2012)

*Missing spring?*

Warm day, so I'm playing around with it. Popped the rubber cap off the idle mixture screw, backed it out a quarter turn, and the thing runs perfectly. Only problem is it won't stay there. So I pulled the screw out completely, and there doesn't seem to be any spring inside. That would explain a few things...

I'll put it back together and jam the screw with a rubber band or something until I can get to a dealer for the spring. Or am I missing a bigger picture? I'm working off this diagram.

Thanks for the various ideas. Maybe I don't need a rebuild after all, which would be nice with such a low-hours machine. If it is just a missing spring, washer and O-ring, I gotta wonder where they went!


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Probably one of those, "ahh we don't need that", or "gee, I wonder where this goes", things if somebody else had it apart before you.


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## Lscp (Jan 22, 2012)

*Plugged idle jet!*

Well - sorry to waste people's time and creativity. Hope this will be useful to someone else.

Got to thinking that new engines tend to have non-adjustable carb settings, supposed to control emissions. (Could this be right? EVERY engine needs tweaking, in my experience.)

Anyway, pulled out that idle jet, which has a big hole bored across near the end, and a tiny hole from the point that connects with the cross-hole. Couldn't see light through the little hole, so I reamed it out with one strand teased from a piece of 1/16" wire rope. 

Guess what - engine started right away, runs perfectly smoothly at all speeds even without warmup. Just like it used to.

Guess I got fooled by the parts diagram; no O-ring or washer needed in this carb. Screwed the jet back in pretty tight, and will plan to clean it at first sign of trouble.

In case it helps anyone else: no need to remove carb, just the cover held on by four sheet-metal screws. The ignition-switch wire pulls loose at the bottom end. Might even be able to reach the jet without doing that by tipping the snowblower over.


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## Marcintosh (Dec 21, 2011)

*No Stabil please*

Stop using Stabil and make sure you use Premium fuel. Here's one reason why-








That aint sand. I did exactly what the dealer said, fill it with regular, over dose it with Stabil 2x and Don't Touch It for the off season. And I listened to him.

It's the crud left behind by cheap fuel and Stabil. If you want to use a fuel additive I've had luck with Seafoam or if things are rough, I use Startron as well.
In 2 cycle machines use the manufacturers fuel/oil mix - I've only started to see it the past few years. The oil has a stabilizer and fuel with no alcohol so it's gonna last for quite a while.

If you can, start EVERYTHING every 7-14 days year round. it keeps things oiled and the fuel moving. There's also less of an issue with mice and spiders. Just a thought.

Nearly forgot - if you plan on re-building your carb yourself, I recommend using Berryman parts cleaners. The gallon comes with a nice basket that keeps everything in one area. Chuck all the disassembled parts in, and then to keep things moving, toss in an airline with a stone diffuser from a small fish tank pump. *MAKE SURE YOU USE A CHECK-VALVE ON THE AIR LINE*. Just in case you lose power, it won't siphon all over your garage. I drill a hole in the lid and run the hose through it just to keep things neat and where they belong. You'll have some mighty tidy parts after that.


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## twofishy4u (Dec 6, 2011)

nothing but problems hear with stabil too. I run seafoam and I do run them dry. I may not do that this year as I found a gas station here with 91 ethanol free!!!!


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## kb0nly (Sep 22, 2011)

LOL...

You guys and your troubles with Stabil and your bad carb pictures. I don't know what your doing wrong, but i have been running nothing but the cheap gas and Stabil in all my OPE for almost 15 years now i think its been. I have yet to pull apart a carb or have anything in the bowl. 

Make sure you put in a fuel filter, flush out the tank every couple years, and if its something that doesnt get used often even drain the tank every year and put in fresh treated fuel.

As soon as i see a reason to stop using Stabil and doing what i have been for a large portion of my life i will, but so far i am not convinced that there is a problem to treat and keep wet.

Oh and as for the statement of using Premium Fuel... You guys harp on that over and over... Try living in the Midwest. You have to drive an hour to even find a station with Premium. Its all Gasohol here.


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