# My new 10hp 32" Driftbreaker - what a beast!



## wildbill59

My new-to-me Craftsman snowblower - model# 536.918500. It had been sitting in a garage for years, picked it up last month, just got to play with it tonight. Carb was reasonably clean, just a little gas must have been left in it, but the little that was turned in to a hard, thick varnish. LOTS of carb cleaner and elbow grease, put it together, tank flush and new plug, fired right up! We got a couple of inches here in the Pittsburgh area tonight, this guy made quick work of it. Really, REALLY throws the snow! Time to give it a real good once-over - change hoses, belts, lube, etc. Hoping to find a manual, nothing online - anyone have one? Also, looks like the oil was changed before storage, but I'd like to give it a fresh one. A Sears manual from the same era, with a 7hp Snow King recommends 5w30. That's probably 40 year old technology, wonder if there's a better oil recommendation. What do you all think? Think that's the best weight? Dino, synth blend or synth? Thanks in advance!


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## detdrbuzzard

congrats on getting the driftbreaker up and running. as for oil most here use 5w 30 synthetic


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## bad69cat

I don't know if I'd do synthetics on a guy that old. Stick with tried and true Dino on it. As a matter of fact I ad ZDDP in my old ones. Bobistheoilguy.com is a great reference place on all things oil


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## Sid

That'a a great machine, should have bought one when I had the chance years ago. I have been using synthetic on my machine, FH Tech for the last 25 yrs. Original 50 yr Tech still runs great, and I never even have had the head off. As a concession to it's age, I only go 3/4 throttle, and it runs and throws snow great. Hoping for another 20 yrs, if I last that long.
Sid


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## Kiss4aFrog

:2cents:

I'm running 0-40 Mobil 1 in my 1032 (and others). Walmart has the best price. No problems


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## Cardo111

Nice machine, nice to see it still getting the job done in a big way. Who made these for Sears back in the day, was it Gilson?


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## sidegrinder

Not Gilson. I would guess AMF.


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## lee h

Congrats on a nice blower. I have one almost identical but
mine has the white housing for the lights.
As for oil, I have been using synthetic in all my snowblowers
with no issues at all.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Mine is a Noma. I get jealous every time I see one with the headlight assembly. Just can't get my hands on one for a price I'm willing to pay.


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## HCBPH

Congrats, you found yourself a great machine. Happens that one has the Tecumseh gear transmission in it vs a friction disk drive. It's a mean beast. 
I have one of them, one of many I have bought, rebuilt and sold

Happens I have a garage door that's too narrow for a 32" auger housing to go through so I took a narrower auger housing and swapped it out for that one so become my perfect machine


Here's one thing to watch:

The bolts that hold the transmission to the mounting shaft inside the tractor unit can work loose, or if you have the drive chain jam it can break the mounting points on the transmission (note the top 2 mounts I've cut off. I came up with a repair method so if it happens don't trash it out as there is a repair method. 

Biggest problem you may have is the drive cable from the hand control to the belt tensioner breaking or rusting up. Again there are options so don't give up on it.

One last thing. There is a way to split the auger and drive from a common control and have done that to one machine. Finding the right parts take a little time and you need to make a part but it's possible.


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## HCBPH

sidegrinder said:


> Not Gilson. I would guess AMF.


 That ones a Murray. Part of the design originated with AMF but it's a Murray post AMF purchase based on all I've found out about them.


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## wildbill59

Guys, thanks so much for your answers, and so sorry in getting back to the forum here. Had a real plateful with our 'Blizzard Of 2016!'. Eh, we only got about 8 inches, but areas not too far from me got over 2 feet. I have a small engine repair shop, and drive a tow truck on-call for my neighbor. I plow a couple of local lots, not to mention my own driveway and lot. Not to mention keeping up with my own equipment and vehicles, just not much time for forums. Heck, a couple of my Facebook friends even called me, that hadn't seen me on for almost a week. So again - sorry I hadn't gotten back with you guys (I know you're not losing sleep over it, I just don't want to be rude). Kissafrog, always fun to see your posts, I see you all over the place! And HCBPH, thanks so much for the post about the Peerless trans - I have the same problem. One of my mounts is cracked just like yours, I'd be interested to hear what your repair procedures were. It's supposed to go up into the 50s this weekend, so I won't be plowing, so I should have plenty of time for forming! Thanks to everyone that wrote, hope to hear back from you guys. Again, sorry for being a lousy forum member.


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## wildbill59

HCBPH, that's quite a bunch that you have there! I saw your video on Youtube about combining your 32 and 26 to fit your doorway, nice work! As I said in the last post, looks like I have a broken mounting boss on my 700, would like to hear what you did with it. I'm going to look in my salvage yard - I have a dozen or so rear-engine riders - if I'm not mistaken, some of them use the same Peerless 5 speed. Am I right?


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## wildbill59

From the looks of the hardware, I think someone already had this transmission apart. Don't know if I recently cracked that boss during our 'big' snowfall - did push it to the limit a few times trying to cut through the 2 foot plowed packed drifts at the side of our lot (thanks, PennDOT!), or if the previous owner cracked it. Also, looks like they got rid of the Bentonite and used something thinner - there's a kind of melted, oozing grease all around all of the seals. That's just wet motor oil on the chains, gotta clean that up. I was thinking of topping off the gearbox with John Deere corn head grease - any thoughts? Again, thanks to all of you guys in advance!


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## HCBPH

I have a pdf that has complete instructions including pictures, if you send me your email I can send it along. It will likely be next week before I can get it out but here's the short version if you want to work on it now. The doc was from the other year when I sold a few of the kits I made to do the repair. It doesn't give the dimensions of the plate or spacer, but you can get those off your transmission and make them based on the info below.

You need a piece of steel plate (I used 1/16") slightly larger than the 6 mounting holes on the transmission. You need to drill those 6 holes in the plate in the exact positions of the 6 mounts on the transmission. You have one more hole to make, for the shaft on the transmission. You need to cut off the 2 mounts it currently using, take enough off so you can fit a nut in that space. Bolt the plate to the transmission using the 4 lower mounts. Next you need to either modify or make 2 new spacers that fit between the intermediate shaft and the transmission, you need to make them the same length as the originals minus the thickness of the plate. Now it should just be a matter of reassembling the unit, it should all fit back in the same place as the original did. I used Loctite on the bolts and self-locking nuts to reduce the chance of things coming loose again.

Couple of additional things. Check the chain and the sprockets for wear. Also take a look for any side-to-side movement of the sprockets and shim them if you can to keep them from sliding and moving the chain out of alignment.

That's the short answer, again if you want the pdf send me your email address.

Paul

PS I did this first more than a couple of years ago, all the machines I've done it to are still working. I actually suspect this mount is stronger than the original method (steel vs aluminum). I've not had any have a chain jam so I don't know if it will prevent or make worse any damage if the chain should ever jam again. That's why you want to shim everything you can to reduce the chance of that chain from ever attempting to jump the sprocket again.

One more thing, the transmissions I've tried (3 speed to 5 speed) physically interchange with the only difference being the speeds and the shifter range. If one is toast and you can find one from another machine, you can likely use it as long as you can live with it if it's got a different number of speeds.

On the question of lubing the transmission, it's a sealed unit and I've never had to open or add lube to any of them. Unless they're damaged, I wouldn't touch it.

One last thing. I suspect the main cause of the damage in the first place is one or both of the shoulder bolts that hold the intermediate shaft to the tractor unit came loose. After reassembly using Loctite on them, I drill and tap a small hole in the side of the tractor unit so I can thread a small screw in that fits tight to one of the flats on the shoulder bolt and will lock those shoulder bolts in place and prevent them from turning.


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## Dpregs

Jealous. Been trying to find one of these old beasts in this area for years.


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## wildbill59

PM with email sent, HCBPH - a pdf would be great. Great to have your knowledge, I think I'd like to keep this big guy for the long haul, and do some rebuilding/restoration work on him. A quick question about transmissions, since you certainly know what you're talking about: I went to the rider section of my yard, and found two Peerless trannys. The one is from a Craftsman rear-engine 10hp 5 speed unit - no ID #s on it, but the crossref states that it's a 700-708. Sure looks the same, and like you said in your previous post - they physically should interchange. If it's a 5 speed, it wouldn't be gear differently internally, would it? I'm hoping that by using the same sprocket and pulley from the blower, a different trans shouldn't change the ground speed. Didn't get to get under the rider to check the input shaft length, hope it's as long as the blower's 735. I guess if worst came to worst, I could split the case and swap input shafts. I'm hoping to use your mounting bracket trick on the broken one anyway, but I'd better start amassing spares for the Drift Breaker while I can!


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## HCBPH

Bill

Other than one unit I've seen that was apparently from a tractor and had axels coming out of the tranny case, every one I've had interchanged. The differences I've noted are the number of gears (3,4 or 5) and the size of the pulley (4 & 5 hp blowers have a smaller pulley). I've taken a 4 speed from a 7 hp and put it into a 5 hp, and done the same taking a 3 speed into a 7 hp blower. Put the right pulley on and no problems. I believe but can't prove the highest gear is close to or the same gear ratio, it's the intermediates that are different.

I don't know honestly how many years back it's been that I came up with that repair method for the broken mounts but I've got a couple of machines I fixed and sold to people I know and they're still working just fine.

I don't disagree on snagging parts when you can, you never know the day you may need something that's no longer available. I like to watch for cheap parts machines I can get on the cheap. Metal bushings for the axel and auger, cables, tranny's, engines, pneumatic tires are some of the main things I like to grab and save. They have the most reuse options.


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## wildbill59

Hey Paul!

Thanks for sending the doc, got a chance to check it over today- looks great! Do you still sell these kits? I'm having trouble finding 1/16 metal and decent metal working tools. My drill press and torch got stolen while we were moving years back - gotta build them back up. In the meantime, if you have any desire to cobble up another kit for me, that would be aces. Let me know what you think, and about how much you'd need for the kit, I'd pay you with Paypal. I appreciate the great info, let me know if you feel like gettin' the chips flying down in the shop. Again, thanks for the great info - I'm gonna make this big guy bulletproof!


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## HCBPH

wildbill59 said:


> Hey Paul!
> 
> Thanks for sending the doc, got a chance to check it over today- looks great! Do you still sell these kits? I'm having trouble finding 1/16 metal and decent metal working tools. My drill press and torch got stolen while we were moving years back - gotta build them back up. In the meantime, if you have any desire to cobble up another kit for me, that would be aces. Let me know what you think, and about how much you'd need for the kit, I'd pay you with Paypal. I appreciate the great info, let me know if you feel like gettin' the chips flying down in the shop. Again, thanks for the great info - I'm gonna make this big guy bulletproof!


I'll have to do some digging, I 'might' still have one setup left I didn't sell but I'm not sure as it's been a while since I was down in the 'pile'. If I don't I'll see if I still have some plate steel big enough, fairly sure I have some aluminum rod I used for the spacers. Give me a few days and if I don't get back to you, remind me via email so I don't forget you.

Paul


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## wildbill59

Fantastic, and thanks so much - no hurry. If I don't hear from you by the beginning of next week, I'll send you a friendly, non-pushy reminder. Thanks again for your help!


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## HCBPH

Bill

I did some looking and the only one I have left is on one of the machines I have to finish reassembling. I don't know how soon I could get the stuff and set up again to make more. I really don't think it would cost much to have something made locally at a machine shop and I'd be willing to pull this one off and make some drawings off it for you.

Let me know if that would work for you.

Paul


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## wildbill59

Thanks Paul - sorry so late, I'm PMing you now.


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## HCBPH

Did a quick drawing for anyone that wants to make their own transmission repair plate. This is what I used to fix those with broken mounts where it attaches to the intermediate shaft. Remember before doing it, fix the cause of the original breakage.

Update - just noticed I didn't mention that plate I made was from 1/16" steel. That's what dictates the change in length of the spacers. If you use different thickness, adjust the length of the spacers accordingly. The slot out the bottom isn't required, but I added it in case I ever need to pull the tranny in the future, hopefully will make it easier if that ever happens.


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## wildbill59

Perfect - I'll take that to my machine shop along with the doc that you sent me. That ought get me going - thanks again for sharing, and for your patience. Wish me luck!


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## HCBPH

Love seeing one of these machines put back into service and the powers to be eat crow when you show how well some 20-30 year old machine does in comparison to the newest ones. Now if someone would just release new versions of a couple of parts, all would be as perfect as we can make it.


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## wildbill59

HCBPH said:


> Love seeing one of these machines put back into service and the powers to be eat crow when you show how well some 20-30 year old machine does in comparison to the newest ones. Now if someone would just release new versions of a couple of parts, all would be as perfect as we can make it.


 Agreed! Like the man says - they just don't make 'em like this any more! I've seen some newer models of old trusted names turn out to be some real disappointments - meanwhile, old machines from the 60s, 70s and 80s - out there getting the job done. Also agree about the parts - it's a shame how many parts are unavailable for these big guys, seeing how popular they seem to be.


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## HCBPH

Here's a few tips and info for anyone that finds and wants one of these units.

If you find one that has the plastic bushings on the auger and axel, I've got a thread on this forum (http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ance-forum/570-plastic-bushings-bearings.html) that explains how you can replace them with roller bearings. They work very well. The bronze bushings are still available but not the clamshells, so if you have the bonze bushings, you're one step ahead of the newer ones.

The cable for controlling the auger and drive is no longer available new. It's got a loop on 1 end and a S Hook end on the other, that's no longer available. You can use a chute control cable 49551MA in it's place. This one has a loop on each end of the cable. You need to rig your own end to attach it to the handle but it's not difficult to do. That cable isn't cheap but it is available. You might still find the original cable NOS at some dealers on their cable rack, I did the other year.

If you don't like the fact one handle controls both the auger and drive, I've come up with a way to split those controls. You need a handle along with a cable plus make a part yourself. See this thread for info on how I did it: Splitting the drive and auger controls on a Craftsman Snowblower in Modification Projects/Topics Forum
I just found another handle this last week and plan to do it to another machine one of these days.

The 7 -10 HP motors are single shaft engines. You can replace them with a larger clone engine if desired. You may have to rework the chute control handle and possibly do a little changing to make it fit, but fit it should. You also may need to get new pulleys if the shaft on the motor is a different size. 

Other than auger width and motor size, virtually all the 7-10 HP 536-918xxx and 536-882xxx machines (the red and white or black and gray units with the Tecumseh transmission) are virtually identical otherwise. All those other parts interchange for the most part.

If you're like me and need one with a slightly narrower auger than came on the machine, the entire auger assembly from another machine of the same type will swap out.

You can replace the bearing by the auger pulley by pressing out the old and getting a replacement. Costs a couple of dollars vs about $30-$40 including the housing.

I've also seem one machine that had hard plastic tires on it. The pneumatic tires fit between all the large frame units. I've swapped them successfully before.

That's the short list. Hope it helps someone out.


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## Foreverfalcon40

GREAT FIND! She's beauty!

I have been trying to track down the same machine or Jari Snow Eater...everyone one I come across is always missing parts that I highly doubt I can source.

Heck I had trouble finding a Pivot Point for a Simplicity 555 that I rescued from the curb. Took me year to find the whole pivot assembly used. From there I made back up pivot blocks from Poly!


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