# How to change the transmission oil in a Honda HS622



## bwdbrn1

Fairplane's thread about how to check the oil in the transmission of Honda's HS622 got me to thinking about checking it out in mine.

Thanks to the advise and direction of [email protected], and my local Honda dealer, C.E.I. in Moline, IL, I was able to go at the job knowing what I would have to do. Here's how I went about it today. Sorry for the poor quality photos, and screwy looking arrows I drew on them, but I hope they do the trick.

The shop manual states that the transmission on the HS622 holds 2.0 liter (2.1 qt) of 5W-30 oil.

I store my HS622 on a furniture dolly, so that it is easier to move around in my garage. Sitting on the dolly makes it easier to get a catch pan under it for changing the transmission oil. I won't bother showing a catch pan, but if you do this to yours, make sure it's large enough to hold 2 liter of oil.

The drain plug is located on the back side of the transmission. It can be seen here looking toward the front of the snowblower under the engine. It takes a 12mm socket, and there is an aluminum washer behind it, in case it drops off and you weren't looking for it.










You have to remove the plastic shroud that covers the top of the transmission. There are two bolts, one on either side, and one acorn nut and washer on top of the shroud to take off. They're all 10mm. The shroud will easily bend outward so that you can lift it up past the discharge chute and gas tank.










Next you have to locate and remove the fill plug. It's a round black rubber stopper looking thing on the top left hand side of the transmission as you are facing the front of the snowblower. It's in behind the lever that actuates the auger. It's pretty close quarters, but it comes off easily using the end of a straight bladed screw driver. Just don't poke it too hard.










After the old oil has drained out, re-install the drain plug and it's washer.

Now comes the hard part. Because the fill hole faces sideways, pouring the oil in is a bit tricky. I happened to have a funnel with a tube that has a 1/2" inside diameter on it. I went to the hardware store and got a plastic 1/2" barbed fitting with a 90° in it, and stuck it in the end of the tube.










The fitting slipped in between the auger clutch lever and transmission case, and into the filler hole far enough that I could pour the oil into the funnel without spilling it all over. Sorry I don't have any pictures of that, but holding the funnel with one hand and pouring the oil with the other didn't leave me with any hands to snap a picture.

Once you've put the 2 liter of oil into the transmission, re-install the rubber fill plug. The same flat bladed screw driver you used to get it out will be needed to push it back in. Then you can put the shroud back on, and your HS622 is ready for the next snowfall.


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## Jetmech

Thanks for the helpful post. Will be changing mine very shortly.


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## Oracle

While looking for a transmission oil change thread I came across this one but unfortunately the pictures attached are no longer working so with the help of Google I rescued the pictures.. I'm re-posting the thread with pictures from Google. They should be there for eternity...

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Fairplane's thread about how to check the oil in the transmission of Honda's HS622 got me to thinking about checking it out in mine.

Thanks to the advise and direction of [email protected], and my local Honda dealer, C.E.I. in Moline, IL, I was able to go at the job knowing what I would have to do. Here's how I went about it today. Sorry for the poor quality photos, and screwy looking arrows I drew on them, but I hope they do the trick.

The shop manual states that the transmission on the HS622 holds 2.0 liter (2.1 qt) of 5W-30 oil.

I store my HS622 on a furniture dolly, so that it is easier to move around in my garage. Sitting on the dolly makes it easier to get a catch pan under it for changing the transmission oil. I won't bother showing a catch pan, but if you do this to yours, make sure it's large enough to hold 2 liter of oil.

The drain plug is located on the back side of the transmission. It can be seen here looking toward the front of the snowblower under the engine. It takes a 12mm socket, and there is an aluminum washer behind it, in case it drops off and you weren't looking for it.











You have to remove the plastic shroud that covers the top of the transmission. There are two bolts, one on either side, and one acorn nut and washer on top of the shroud to take off. They're all 10mm. The shroud will easily bend outward so that you can lift it up past the discharge chute and gas tank.










Next you have to locate and remove the fill plug. It's a round black rubber stopper looking thing on the top left hand side of the transmission as you are facing the front of the snowblower. It's in behind the lever that actuates the auger. It's pretty close quarters, but it comes off easily using the end of a straight bladed screw driver. Just don't poke it too hard.










After the old oil has drained out, re-install the drain plug and it's washer.

Now comes the hard part. Because the fill hole faces sideways, pouring the oil in is a bit tricky. I happened to have a funnel with a tube that has a 1/2" inside diameter on it. I went to the hardware store and got a plastic 1/2" barbed fitting with a 90° in it, and stuck it in the end of the tube.










The fitting slipped in between the auger clutch lever and transmission case, and into the filler hole far enough that I could pour the oil into the funnel without spilling it all over. Sorry I don't have any pictures of that, but holding the funnel with one hand and pouring the oil with the other didn't leave me with any hands to snap a picture.

Once you've put the 2 liter of oil into the transmission, re-install the rubber fill plug. The same flat bladed screw driver you used to get it out will be needed to push it back in. Then you can put the shroud back on, and your HS622 is ready for the next snowfall.


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## db9938

Nice write up.


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## 33696933

very nice. Instead of filling through the fill hole , just fill it through the drain very easy that way.


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## Oracle

33696933 said:


> very nice. Instead of filling through the fill hole , just fill it through the drain very easy that way.


Er.. How? I mean the drain is at the bottom.. do you mean turning the snowblower upside down or something like that?


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## db9938

Place it on the front of the bucket. The only problem, is the curved shape of the machine. You would have to use blocks, or rest the handles against the wall.


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## Oracle

Maybe a dumb question (this is my first snowblower ever so I'll play the newbie card), can the auger housing (bucket) hold the weight of the machine? I mean the housing is bolted to the transmission and that will hold the weight of the whole machine?


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## db9938

For most machines, this is known as the "service position." This is in part due to the access panel on machines that have more traditional friction plate and drive belt configuration. 

Albeit, I have never attempted it with my HS622, I would imagine that our buckets would have no problems, considering lesser material machines do it. The only caveat, is that our buckets are more rounded, so unless you are careful, they will continue to rotate over. You must use something to prevent this, otherwise risk damaging the chute among other things.

I would also recommend doing this on a scrap piece of cardboard, carpet, or rubber mat.


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## Oracle

Ah... got it.. Well tomorrow I'll change the oil and will report back.. I'll post some pictures.

Thanks!


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## Thump_rrr

Oracle said:


> While looking for a transmission oil change thread I came across this one but unfortunately the pictures attached are no longer working so with the help of Google I rescued the pictures.. I'm re-posting the thread with pictures from Google. They should be there for eternity...[QUOTE/]
> Can you please post on how you went about resurrecting the photos?
> There are other threads where this would come in handy.


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## Oracle

Thump_rrr said:


> Oracle said:
> 
> 
> 
> While looking for a transmission oil change thread I came across this one but unfortunately the pictures attached are no longer working so with the help of Google I rescued the pictures.. I'm re-posting the thread with pictures from Google. They should be there for eternity...[QUOTE/]
> Can you please post on how you went about resurrecting the photos?
> There are other threads where this would come in handy.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure,
> Right click on the missing picture and select copy the URL (I use Chrome on Windows) and select copy URL, paste it in a document and look at the last part which is the file name.
> Then search on Google something like I did: Honda HS622 Drainplug.jpg and once the results are showing click on "Images" (to see only pictures) and you should see what Google has cached... then right click on the one you believe is the right one (you can check the file name for better accuracy) and use the URL of the picture in Google when you repost..
> 
> Basically search for the image filename and as context use Honda _Model_
> 
> and that's it, let me know if you have problems finding the picture and I'll give it a try..
> 
> Good luck!
Click to expand...


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## barter

Why would you use 5W20 oil for this and not Honda transmission fluid/90 gear oil?


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## db9938

Because, that is the Honda recommended lubricant for the transmission.

And, it's much cheaper.


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## barter

I have a 2007 HS 622 TCS I bought used this past summer and noticed it is dripping small amount of light clear thin oily fluid, not sure exactly where it is coming from (?axl seal). Any way it don't look like engine oil.


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## db9938

They may have redesigned the LO for that, or redesigned the transmission for a thinner weight oil. I can not say for certain. I do know that the seals are positioned at the bottom of the lube reservoir, and that the axles are also the most apt to corrode due to proximity to the snow.

I will say that it would have helped if Honda would have sealed and coated the metal prior to installing it.


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## Oracle

I wonder how painful it is to install install new seals. 
Hopefully there is a process (that is public or published on theweb) with revised parts that fixes that once and for all


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## dcloes

Oracle said:


> I wonder how painful it is to install install new seals.
> Hopefully there is a process (that is public or published on theweb) with revised parts that fixes that once and for all


Did you find anything for this?

My front right seal is leaking severely. I haven't been able to find anything yet. This thread helps with knowing what to refill it with and where the plugs are.

EDIT: Nevermind. I searched again and found Oracle's thread on this. Sweet! Doesn't appear to be as hard as I thought. Not as much disassembling as I thought.


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## Oracle

I wanted to check if both seals are bad.. but just one, good so I save $$.
I'll order tomorrow and will install during the weekend. Thanks for the reminder!



dcloes said:


> Did you find anything for this?
> 
> My front right seal is leaking severely. I haven't been able to find anything yet. This thread helps with knowing what to refill it with and where the plugs are.
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind. I searched again and found Oracle's thread on this. Sweet! Doesn't appear to be as hard as I thought. Not as much disassembling as I thought.


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## Normex

Oracle said:


> I wanted to check if both seals are bad.. but just one, good so I save $$.
> I'll order tomorrow and will install during the weekend. Thanks for the reminder!


 Many would urge to change both seals since you have everything dismantled and ready. Just a thought


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## Oracle

Maybe... but seems to be a very simple task the disassemble of the tracks...
Each gasket is about $32 so if I really don't need to replace both I think I'll save my money for another time...

I'm more concerned about pulling that seal off (may have to use brute force) or scorching the new seal because the shaft is a bit rough...

I have not found a video or something.. some anecdotal threads but that's it...

Also the carb is acting up again when cold.. I just bought a cheapo replacement on ebay... This machine is over 20 years, if I can get 2-3 seasons I think I'll be happy. I'm probably looking for an excuse to buy a new one.. he, he.. 



Normex said:


> Many would urge to change both seals since you have everything dismantled and ready. Just a thought


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## Normex

Oracle said:


> Maybe... but seems to be a very simple task the disassemble of the tracks...
> Each gasket is about $32 so if I really don't need to replace both I think I'll save my money for another time...
> 
> I'm more concerned about pulling that seal off (may have to use brute force) or scorching the new seal because the shaft is a bit rough...


 Your logic makes sense especially when looking far on the horizon there might be a new toy... as for the shaft is it too rough to sand it down with metal sandpaper. To pull the seal maybe with a strong screwdriver?
Good Luck


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## Oracle

I don't think I want to use a screwdriver because I can damage the contact surface, what I've seen on youtube is drive in a screw and pry it off with a wood (as transversal support) and long flat screwdriver or pry bar and find a sweet spot for a good leverage to pry it off.. (I know... easier said than done).
We'll see.. tomorrow I'll order the seal. I'm pretty sure won't be in until next week when I get too busy again...



Normex said:


> Your logic makes sense especially when looking far on the horizon there might be a new toy... as for the shaft is it too rough to sand it down with metal sandpaper. To pull the seal maybe with a strong screwdriver?
> Good Luck


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## db9938

Might try a small wire wheel on a drill or dremel to clean as much of the shaft up, that you can.


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## Oracle

Since the seal needs to be covered in grease I think I'll just have a layer of it on the shaft to make it easier to slide in. 
Good idea in trying to smooth out the shaft as much as possible. 

The seal is in. I'll pickup tomorrow from the dealership. 

I'll try to take pictures of the process and will write a thread on my experience replacing the shaft.


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## dcloes

Oracle said:


> Since the seal needs to be covered in grease I think I'll just have a layer of it on the shaft to make it easier to slide in.
> Good idea in trying to smooth out the shaft as much as possible.
> 
> The seal is in. I'll pickup tomorrow from the dealership.
> 
> I'll try to take pictures of the process and will write a thread on my experience replacing the shaft.


Did you complete your repair? I haven't had a chance yet, but want to get it done before a big snowstorm hits.

I'm puzzled that the oil is 5w 30 for the transmission. What has leaked on my floor seems clearer than oil.


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## Oracle

Hi,
Yes, the work is all completed and documented for eternity:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/33282-how-change-wheel-shaft-oil-seal-honda-hs522-hs655.html

Yes, the tranny oil is 5-30 and what I found was a black oxidized fluid that had never been replaced.. 

If yours was clearer then oil is possibly contaminated with water.. either way just drain the tranny and re-fill..

Note: I drained and refilled using the same plug by draining the 'blower on a regular position and re-filling using the same drain hole by putting the 'blower on service position (great advise)

Let us know how it went..

Good luck!



dcloes said:


> Did you complete your repair? I haven't had a chance yet, but want to get it done before a big snowstorm hits.
> 
> I'm puzzled that the oil is 5w 30 for the transmission. What has leaked on my floor seems clearer than oil.


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## dcloes

Oracle said:


> Hi,
> Yes, the work is all completed and documented for eternity:
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/33282-how-change-wheel-shaft-oil-seal-honda-hs522-hs655.html
> 
> Yes, the tranny oil is 5-30 and what I found was a black oxidized fluid that had never been replaced..
> 
> If yours was clearer then oil is possibly contaminated with water.. either way just drain the tranny and re-fill..
> 
> Note: I drained and refilled using the same plug by draining the 'blower on a regular position and re-filling using the same drain hole by putting the 'blower on service position (great advise)
> 
> Let us know how it went..
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks for the link and quick reply. Hoping to do this tonight as it's supposed to snow tomorrow.


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## Finn

Hi Oracle - I'm not seeing the photos you posted with your great explanation. Any chance you still have them and can repost or send them to me? Thanks.


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## jaytee

So, if I'm reading this right, I refill the transmission with SAE 5W30 motor oil?


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## orangputeh

jaytee said:


> So, if I'm reading this right, I refill the transmission with SAE 5W30 motor oil?


yes, with 2.1 quarts.


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## martgsr

I don't know if in canada our snowblower is different but I have a hss622 and every honda i call said it need 75-90 gear oil in it. !?


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## orangputeh

martgsr said:


> I don't know if in canada our snowblower is different but I have a hss622 and every honda i call said it need 75-90 gear oil in it. !?


that's for auger tranny . the gearbox between the auger rakes.

the 622 transmission calls for 5W-30 . In our area we use 10W-30 since it rarely gets to zero or below.


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## martgsr

orangputeh said:


> that's for auger tranny . the gearbox between the auger rakes.
> 
> the 622 transmission calls for 5W-30 . In our area we use 10W-30 since it rarely gets to zero or below.



Oh, so if I'm in the process of fixing the shaft oil seal like this ( https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...e-wheel-shaft-oil-seal-honda-hs522-hs655.html)
the oil that was leaking is for the gearbox and need any kind of motor oil 5W-30 ?


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## orangputeh

martgsr said:


> Oh, so if I'm in the process of fixing the shaft oil seal like this ( https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...e-wheel-shaft-oil-seal-honda-hs522-hs655.html)
> the oil that was leaking is for the gearbox and need any kind of motor oil 5W-30 ?


yes. hope you are changing seals on both sides. this is a common problem with the 622. oil capacity is 2.1 quarts. 5W-30 . maybe someone here has a different opinion but I think any brand would do. Honda wants you to use their brand of course. some guys here will say synthetic. 

I just changed the oil on a 622 that must have been leaking slowly for several years . It only had about 1.5 quarts in it. I put in this stuff in new oil and it sealed up the seals. Really not sure if this is right but my friend did not want to spring for the seals and labor to replace them.

we added a couple ounces of this to the new oil and ran it up and down the street for several hours for a couple days and there is no sign of a leak. maybe a Honda mechanic will respond to this . maybe it may do more harm than good in the long run. not sure. all i know is that it stopped the leak.

ATP-AT 205 Re-seals stop leak from amazon. $11.95. very good reviews from many mechanics.


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## martgsr

orangputeh said:


> yes. hope you are changing seals on both sides. this is a common problem with the 622. oil capacity is 2.1 quarts. 5W-30 . maybe someone here has a different opinion but I think any brand would do. Honda wants you to use their brand of course. some guys here will say synthetic.
> 
> I just changed the oil on a 622 that must have been leaking slowly for several years . It only had about 1.5 quarts in it. I put in this stuff in new oil and it sealed up the seals. Really not sure if this is right but my friend did not want to spring for the seals and labor to replace them.
> 
> we added a couple ounces of this to the new oil and ran it up and down the street for several hours for a couple days and there is no sign of a leak. maybe a Honda mechanic will respond to this . maybe it may do more harm than good in the long run. not sure. all i know is that it stopped the leak.
> 
> ATP-AT 205 Re-seals stop leak from amazon. $11.95. very good reviews from many mechanics.



Thank you so much ! Had such a hard time to find the right informations ! It's bizarre that every honda I called were thinking about the oil in the auger transmission.
Since I don't know much about snowblower I had no clue.


Yes I did both seal and I think they were both leaking ...


Yesterday flushed the old oil and I was still looking what oil to put back in 


Thank you again for your help


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## orangputeh

33696933 said:


> very nice. Instead of filling through the fill hole , just fill it through the drain very easy that way.


That's what I do. Drain the oil . then place blower up on nose and pour in 2 quarts thru the drain plug. ( 2 L )


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## Rooskie

I'm going to try that stop leak.


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