# How do you prepare for storage?



## zeddy (Dec 12, 2010)

I know I am going to get flamed here by all of you who are still using your machines everyday. We have gotten very little snow this year and I am starting to look at how to prepare my two stage for storage.
I was thinking of draining the tank and running it dry and then pulling the plug and fogging the cylinder.

What do you all do?


----------



## fishingdan (Jan 27, 2011)

2 strokes need fuel to lubricate the engine. I have heard that isn't good to run it out of fuel.

Put in a good fuel preservative (I like startron, also liked using SeaFoam), run it for a bit and then fog it. I do this with all of my 2 stroke equipment.


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

Ok, what is "fogging" the engine?

Would it be bad to store my machine in the service position (vertical standing on it's augers)?


----------



## 2cycled fruitcake (Oct 5, 2010)

seafoam has a fog oil, its a good idea keep cylinder from rusting, tank good idea, after it seems to run dry, pull the carb&make sure no fuel, lube cables, keep air in the tires.etc...
if you want rest the skid shoes on a block of wood..


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

bring the engine up to operating temperature, drain and replace the oil. Drain the fuel tank and carburetor, pull the spark plug and fog the cylinder with the piston at BDC pull it over a few times put the piston back at BDC and fog again. You can also lightly fog the inside of the empty gas tank. I like to wash and wax the entire machine before putting it away for the year. If you have used you blower where salt is used a pressure washer is a good idea, as salt is the snow blowers worst enemy. Carl


----------



## djturnz (Feb 2, 2011)

Can it be stored on its front end?


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

2cycled fruitcake said:


> seafoam has a fog oil, its a good idea keep cylinder from rusting, tank good idea, after it seems to run dry, pull the carb&make sure no fuel, lube cables, keep air in the tires.etc...
> if you want rest the skid shoes on a block of wood..


 Storing it on its front end shouldn't be a problem as long as you remove the oil and gas first. However you may find that some gear oil/grease may come out of the auger gearbox if it is vented. carl


----------



## 2cycled fruitcake (Oct 5, 2010)

good call on the earl& pressure wash carl, i was kinda tired blogging here the other night


----------



## Full Throttle (Nov 20, 2010)

djturnz said:


> Ok, what is "fogging" the engine?


 Fogging oil is a sticky oil dosnt drip off over time like a lube type oil. Really only needed on 2 strokes. With the engine running you spray into the carb and it will start to choke the motor out stop and shut the motor off. Some do it to the point it stops the motor. The bottom end will be coated and safe to store in almost any conditions. Drain the carb put a little lube oil in the spark plug hole pull over a few times and put the piston in the right spot. Restarting going to smoke a lot and may even foul a plug.


----------



## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

*old way of fogging*

learned from an old timer. on any motor needing long term storage including an i/o chevy v6 i have always poured marvel mystery oil down the carb until it smokes a lot then pour more in fast enough so it stalls the motor. next time you use it, it will smoke a ton maybe even get some oil out the exhaust but never had any problems.


----------



## sub-zero (Oct 6, 2010)

this might be a dumb question but is there any thing i need to do to store an electric single stage snow blower? considering it doesnt have any "fluids" inside it that might gum up during storage im assuming its straight forward.


----------



## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

like earlier stated, if your in an area where salt is used, make sure its clean and maybe throw a light coating of wd40 or its equivalent over it. the metal parts anyway.


----------



## BLUEGUY (Nov 10, 2010)

The manual suggests spraying the machine down with silicone spray.


----------



## BOSMECH (Dec 16, 2010)

Do what the manual says.
For me I drain all the fuel and carb bowl and the put some oil in the cylinder and pull it a coulpe of pulls and then I am done, of coures you do need to clean it also.
Works great every year for both 2 stroke and 4 stroke.


----------



## HDNewf (Nov 23, 2010)

Yeah, for me this is the most critical time. While I can put up with a lawn mower that needs work when I think it's time to mow, my snow blower must start and run well when it's time to go!
I change the oil and start up the engine to circulate the fresh oil.
Next I drain the tank and float bowl, pull the plug and add a teaspoon or so of Marvel's. Spin the engine over a few times, replace the plug, grease the front end, check and adjust the belt. All that's left is to make sure the scraper blade and shoes are OK and I'm good to go next snowtime!


----------



## Ingersoll444 (Nov 20, 2010)

What I SHOULD do... or what normaly happands??? 

I always try to run it out of fuel, and do a oil change to get the winters used up, acid filled oil out. Much more then that probably isnt happaning at my house.


----------



## Oldphil (Dec 7, 2010)

Really good thoughts above, the only thing I will add having been a marine mechanic for a very long time is running fogging oil through the the engine while it is running. Doing so coats all the internals and also coats the muffler. We used Marvel for several seasons, it does not do the job of real fogging oil which is formulated to cling. We had several out boards stick pretty hard over the layup period, since switching to real fogging oil not one has even gotten tight.

Phil


----------



## 2cycled fruitcake (Oct 5, 2010)

they still have crc for that phil?
good stuff there


----------

