# Can anyone help me identify my 10hp Tecumseh?



## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

The snow blower I inherited from my father wouldn't propel itself anymore and I could see what the problem was. The drive wheel was still good, but the bearings in the drive disk assembly were shot. After re-assembling it I was testing it in the driveway and it pulled like a champ, so problem solved. Then, before putting it away for the summer the motor quit and won't restart. There is no spark, so I need to investigate further. The problem is I can't find any identifying plates on the motor, and the manual that came with it doesn't help. I know for a fact that it's a 10 hp Tecumseh. 

I uploaded some pics to album "1976 Wedgefield .....". Can anyone help me identify what model of engine I have?

Thanks in advance.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

pwm said:


> The snow blower I inherited from my father wouldn't propel itself anymore and I could see what the problem was. The drive wheel was still good, but the bearings in the drive disk assembly were shot. After re-assembling it I was testing it in the driveway and it pulled like a champ, so problem solved. Then, before putting it away for the summer the motor quit and won't restart. There is no spark, so I need to investigate further. The problem is I can't find any identifying plates on the motor, and the manual that came with it doesn't help. I know for a fact that it's a 10 hp Tecumseh.
> 
> I uploaded some pics to album "1976 Wedgefield .....". Can anyone help me identify what model of engine I have?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


 The engine info will be on the top of the engine shroud. If you have electric start you will probably have to remove the button on top of the engine to see the entire set of numbers. They will be stamped right into the shroud.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I concur that it should be stamped into the shroud, and that it is probably covered by the electric start button.


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## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

Thanks for the replies. I'm on it.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

ALOHA to the forms..


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

if its a flathead, its more than likely an hm100, more than likely a 1 inch crank also


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## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

I found the model & serial numbers under the starter button assembly. It's HM100 159005D Serial # 9193D. This motor appears to have a magneto ignition with points and condenser. Now I have a place to start. I'm expecting the points and/or condenser are done. Not surprising, since it is 38 years old.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Before you dig into the points, try disconnecting the kill switch wire from the coil. There may be a short somewhere causing it to ground and loose spark. If the machine has a key switch, remove that wire first and work from there.

Tecumseh flat head manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

Thanks Grunt, but this unit pre dates the key and there is no kill switch. Stopping the motor entails just shutting the throttle completely off. BTW, this motor has always been a great starter and has always run well, no matter how cold. It gets to -40 here.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

pwm said:


> Thanks Grunt, but this unit pre dates the key and there is no kill switch. Stopping the motor entails just shutting the throttle completely off. BTW, this motor has always been a great starter and has always run well, no matter how cold. It gets to -40 here.


 There should be a wire at the bottom of the throttle assembly that goes to ground when you push the throttle all the way down. This wire will go to the coil. Remove this wire from the coil to insure that it is not shorted out somewhere behind the shroud and then check for spark. Carl


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## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

Thanks for the tip CarlB. On closer inspection, there is in fact a kill switch built into the throttle assembly. The wire goes behind the flywheel. I will have to remove the flywheel to get to the points and condenser. I've tried the "pry and strike with hammer" method using the starter cup nut to protect the threads, but no joy so far. That's what they show in the manual. I don't like the idea of hitting the end of the crankshaft with so much force. I would prefer to use a puller if I can find one large enough to handle the 8" flywheel.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

if you can hold the engine by the flywheel in a hanging position letting the weight of the engine pull down on the flywheel while some one else strikes the protected crankshaft end with a 2lb hammer or so it should come loose. Just don't drop the engine. It only needs to be 2" or so off the ground, just enough to have the hanging weight on the crankshaft.


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## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

Good idea, but I got it off with my 1.5 lb hammer and a large pry-bar.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

you might as well replace the fuel line while your in their as preventive maintenance


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## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

What I found: 

First thing I noticed after removing the cardboard cover on the points was the fact that it was soaked in oil, and there was oil in the housing. Not a large amount, but enough to make the cardboard cover which is under the metal cover completely soaked. Didn't expect that.

Also the points look OK but the gap looks to be more like .008" rather than the recommended .020". Any idea why there's oil present? Could the crankshaft seal be going?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

For the fuel line: Standard 1/4" ID fuel hose from any auto parts store should be about $1.50 per foot and cheaper than OEM fuel line. Looking at your picture a second time, with the new clamps and such it almost looks like that was replaced recently.

For the oil: probably could be the crank seal. Maybe try tipping the machine back on the handlebars and see if any oil comes past the seal.


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## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

Thanks. I replaced the fuel line 2 years ago. The original line was soft and was pinching the fuel supply to the carb.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

yeah, i just recommended it because its a pain to do with the flywheel on.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

*oil-*

Did you use any spray penetrating oil of some kind on crank before prying flywheel off?.. if so maybe it followed shaft down and soaked the point cover? Id look into that oil issue before putting it back together.. that should be bone dry in there.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum


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## pwm (Jun 12, 2014)

Thought I'd provide an update: I adjusted the points to .020", cleaned them with sandpaper, and since the condenser tested out OK, I dried up the oil and put the flywheel back on. Now I have a strong spark. 

I'm thinking that two things happened. 1). Wear on the point arm which contacts the cam over time caused the point gap to narrow. 2). When I was working on the drive disk, I had the blower split in two, with the wheels/motor portion laying with the rear down for quite a while, which caused oil to leak into the point housing area, and shorted out the too narrow gaped points. It's a plausible theory anyway.

I had sprayed some WD40 on the outside of the flywheel at the crankshaft area, but it's hard to imagine that getting into the points. Yes, I probably have a leaking crankshaft seal, but I'm not sure I want to get into that.

Thanks for the responses.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

For what it is worth, the oil seal would not be but 5 minute job with a narrow flat bladed driver, to remove it. And something blunt, like a paint stick cut down, for the install. 

It will take patience, and make sure you lube up the topside of the crank shaft.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

db9938 said:


> ...the oil seal would not be but 5 minute job...


I have lost track of how many times I told myself "That should only take 5 minutes." before starting a job only to tell myself I should have left it alone after I finish the job.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

OK, then it should not be a more than 5 beer job...?


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

to remove crankshaft seals with the engine assembled, I take two fine thread drywall screws and screw them into the outer portion of the metal sleeve of the seal 180 degrees apart. using two pair of pliers and gently pulling on the screws usually gets the seal out in short order. Just be careful not to screw through the seal into the block.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I have used two of these, narrowed down a bit. 










Usually have couple of them laying around after the wife gets the decorating bug.


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