# 1st start - pull vs. electric



## tiger9473 (Nov 27, 2014)

Hi there,

I tried starting my Ariens Sno Tek 24 this morning for the first time this winter.
Tried pulling -- wouldn't start.
Exteremely frustrated since I used Sta-Bil in the spring before storing.
I thought I was facing carburetor issues, but as a last resort, I tried the electric start. 

Electric start worked!

Needless to say, I was happy. 
But is this normal?
Pull start not working but electric start working for the first start of the season?
Any advice or insight would be appreciated. 
Thanks in advance!!


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

It probably helped that the electric starter was spinning faster than you could pull. I my self have not had good luck with Stabil. You may want to mix some Seafoam in the gas, for a few tanks. And the best thing to do is drain all the gas when in storage. I use PriG and or Startron, for a fuel stabilizer.


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## tiger9473 (Nov 27, 2014)

Thanks for the reply Motor City!

Yes, I agree that the electric turning the engine faster than I could pull made the difference. 
But is this normal?

Yes, I plan on using some Seafoam for the first few tanks.
I will be sure to drain all the gas next time. 

Prig. Startron. Haven't heard of either of them. Where can I find them?


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## tiger9473 (Nov 27, 2014)

Found Startron at Menards.com

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...startron-fuel-treatment/p-1878928-c-10098.htm


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## tiger9473 (Nov 27, 2014)

Found a YouTube video of same Ariens Sno Tek 24 model exhibiting similar issues. Looks like draining old fuel from carb bowl by turning offset drain bolt does the trick for many.


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## gsrel (Dec 5, 2014)

I had the exact same issue with my Sno-Tek 24, I couldn't get it started with the pull start, only with the electric starter.

Funny though, I always use 91oct with StarTron fuel stabilizer. I picked it up here in Canada at Canadian Tire (seasonal section).


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## Ariens1976 (Jan 1, 2013)

Had that problem last year.... had put in regular automotive oil in it... recommended grade and it turn to molases.... finally changed it to oil that i got at the snowblower dealer and now starts on the first pull. Same grade only thing different is that it says four stroke motor on the bottle, suitable for snowblowers.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

Ariens1976 said:


> Had that problem last year.... had put in regular automotive oil in it... recommended grade and it turn to molases.... finally changed it to oil that i got at the snowblower dealer and now starts on the first pull. Same grade only thing different is that it says four stroke motor on the bottle, suitable for snowblowers.


 most of use use 5w 30 auto oil there is nothing special about the oil sold at an ope dealer. what ever your favorite brand is buy it and the correct weight for the temp in your area


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

detdrbuzzard said:


> most of use use 5w 30 auto oil there is nothing special about the oil sold at an ope dealer. what ever your favorite brand is buy it and the correct weight for the temp in your area




*What the BUZZARD said ^Δ^Δ^Δ*


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## TooTall9957 (Dec 14, 2013)

I'm lucky enough to have several places that sell ethanol free gas and run that in everything. I never have issues and never need any additives.


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## yarcraftman (Jan 30, 2014)

I had an issue trying to start my leafblower last fall with 5 month old oil/gas mix; she would barely crank over. 

I purchased ethanol free clean batch of gas with fresh oil and after about 15 pulls no issues. Ever since running ethanol free gas no issues; starts by 3rd or 4th pull (no electronic start on those darn leaf blowers lol)


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## 94EG8 (Feb 13, 2014)

Motor City said:


> It probably helped that the electric starter was spinning faster than you could pull.


Electric starters will typically turn the engine over _slower_ than a recoil starter.

You can however turn the engine over longer at a time which can help draw in the air fuel mixture.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

My electric starters sure seem to spin the engine faster than my recoil can 

Now that it has started have you tried to pull start it cold ?? Did it start any easier now that it's been run ??


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## whimsey (Oct 16, 2014)

Ariens1976 said:


> Had that problem last year.... had put in regular automotive oil in it... recommended grade and it turn to molases.... finally changed it to oil that i got at the snowblower dealer and now starts on the first pull. Same grade only thing different is that it says four stroke motor on the bottle, suitable for snowblowers.


If you're in a real cold climate and your blower is stored in an unheated location try a synthetic 5W-30 or better yet synthetic 0W-30 motor oil. Both will flow better for easier starting in real cold climates versus conventional motor oil. And they'll usually be less expensive than dealer/manufacture "snow blower" oil.

Whimsey


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I had what seemed like a year long conversation with a rep from one of the leading oil brands trying to find out what the physical difference was between their car motor oil and "SUV" labeled motor oil. He just kept talking in circles. After all almost no SUV ever goes off road and what physical difference in driving style does an SUV get put through the family wagon, sedan or coupe doesn't ????

I'm pretty sure "Snow blower" is regular oil in a regular jug with a "Snow blower" label on it and the label is the only difference (besides higher price).
The ability of an oil to flow at low temperature is rated by a number, as in the 5 in 5W30. Every oil that carries 5W30 has to meet a certain minimum ability to flow to be rated "5". If it flowed better it would pass the test for "0" and be 0W30.
If the "car" oil turned to molassis then the same weight snow blower oil will be molassis too. 

It's like going to the dealer and buying part #123456 at Cadillac for your 350 engine and then going to the Chevrolet dealer and buying part #123456. Same exact GM OEM part but it's cheaper because the profit margin and perceived value is less at Chev. At least it used to be that way back in *my* old days.
I think today it's different but you never know if that Cub, Craftsman or Troy part you bought at the dealer might have been a little cheaper if you bought it from MTD direct ?? And yes, with the internet it's likely cheaper on line.
I really like using Searspartsdirect for research but they really are crazy on price IMHO.


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