# Ariens Fuel Leak



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

My 1971 7HP Ariens Sno-Thro has been a savior so far this winter with all the storms we have had north of Boston. Now that we have a reprieve I was checking it out the other day and when trying to start it noticed fuel leaking from the carburetor bowl of the Tecumseh engine. It has always been difficult to start, after the electric starter died, but now with fuel leaking into the bowl the way it is, I am sure it is flooded and will not start.

Just wondering if this is an expensive repair for a shop to do? Still too cold here for me to attempt to fix in my garage. I should have the rope pull and flywheel key checked out while I am at it as it sometimes recoils and snaps back violently and I am suspecting that it is burning oil as well. I am sure the choke, carburetor and throttle cable could use some adjustment as well.

How much do these engine repairs typically cost? Say for the carburetor repair and engine tune-up or overhaul. I have normally done the maintenance; oil, plugs, blower lube, and changed the gear oil.

Thanks for some guidance and an estimate of repair costs.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Gkamieneski 

You are likely due for a carb overhaul. You could also purchase and install a fuel shut off in line as a temporary fix.
If you're not going to try to overhaul the carb yourself just give a couple local shops a call for an estimate.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Also, if you're handy you can also go to ebay and just buy a new carburetor and install it yourself. Easier than rebuilding and cheaper than taking it in.

The recoil snapping back may be a sign it needs to have the valves adjusted.


----------



## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

I have a Good Used Carbs Available, PM if interested.


----------



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

I think I incorrectly referred to the fuel leaking from the bowl. On my 7HP Tecumseh there is the "ear" of the carburetor that faces outwards and that is where the primer button with spring pumps air into the middle of. I assume this is the air intake? The fuel leak is coming from the orifice in this "ear" and down to its bottom then to the ground.


----------



## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

gkamieneski said:


> My 1971 7HP Ariens Sno-Thro has been a savior so far this winter with all the storms we have had north of Boston. Now that we have a reprieve I was checking it out the other day and when trying to start it noticed fuel leaking from the carburetor bowl of the Tecumseh engine. It has always been difficult to start, after the electric starter died, but now with fuel leaking into the bowl the way it is, I am sure it is flooded and will not start.
> 
> Just wondering if this is an expensive repair for a shop to do? Still too cold here for me to attempt to fix in my garage. I should have the rope pull and flywheel key checked out while I am at it as it sometimes recoils and snaps back violently and I am suspecting that it is burning oil as well. I am sure the choke, carburetor and throttle cable could use some adjustment as well.
> 
> ...


 
if you lived nearby, I'd get that puppy growlin' for free...
nothing a turn of a screwdriver and some parts couldn't fix. if you did it yourself, maybe $50 ?
they are easy and fun to work on.


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If it is leaking when your prime it, that is normal.

If it is leaking all the time the float isn't closing the needle and seat for some reason.


----------



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

I do have the fuel shut off valve just below the tank. It leaks downward whether or not I prime it and at first I thought it might be the very old fuel line, but no, it dripped straight out of the middle of it and down to the ground.

I was hoping to find a fix without dis-assembly so that I can get through the next storm without bringing it into the shop. Any way I can reach in with a tool to make sure everything is seated correctly? 

At the same time as the leak began, it no longer starts, so flooded?


----------



## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I had an 8hp Tecumseh on a previous blower, it developed a drip from the nut on the bottom of the bowl. But it still started and ran fine. 

I was hesitant to mess with it (it was working well, and I didn't want to change that aspect, certainly not during the winter). It already had a fuel shutoff, so I'd simply close the fuel shutoff and run the carb dry at the end of each use. 

That's admittedly a band-aid fix. But at least some slow drips can still let the engine start & run fine. My theory was maybe the seal around the nut at the bottom of the carb was leaking (as opposed to a float-related problem), but I never confirmed whether that was true. 

I've continued running the carbs dry on my blowers at the end of every use, so I don't know if my more-recent Tecumseh engines have this drip issue.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The easiest fix is the fuel shut off and like RedOctobyr it will get you through the season and once it's warmer and greener out you can tackle the problem.

Do you think you might try fixing it yourself or would you bring it in for service ??


----------



## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Just needs a carb cleaning..
it leaks because the float is sticking..
seems intimidating at first, if you have never done it before,
but once you try it, its easy..
I put off doing it for two years! on my '71 Ariens, because I was afraid of messing
something up, but once I dived into it, it wasn't bad at all..

Part one, my first attempts at "fixing" it without taking the bowl off:
http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/Page11.html#question4
it worked ok short-term, but eventually I just had to remove the bowl and clean out the carb, it was what the carb really needed.

Part 2, three years later, My first ever carb cleaning..same snowblower:
Carb rebuild on a Tecumseh - Engines - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

After that successful experience, I wrote on facebook "I am no longer intimidated by carburetors" 

you probably dont *need* a "carb kit"..but if you have the carb apart anyway, it can be a good thing to replace some of the parts: gasket, needle valve, etc.

So now it was clean..one final step..it needed to be better adjusted..

My '71 Ariens was a generally crappy runner for the first 5 years I owned it..ALL the issues, and the ONLY issues I had with it, were all directly related to the carb..I cleaned the carb myself, which helped..but then it wasn't as well-adjusted as it could be..Earlier this winter a friend came over and adjusted the carb properly, and now it runs like a champ! better than it ever has since I have owned it..

Part three of the saga:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/30057-adding-my-ariens-collection-3.html

It took me 6 years to go through those three stages! 
If you have someone experienced show you what to do, you could do it all in 20 minutes instead of 6 years! 

none of it is difficult, but there is a learning curve..

All of my carb adjustments were done *without* un-bolting the whole carb from the snowblower!
only removing the carb bowl..
some of the carb videos show physically taking the whole carb assembly right off of the machine,
which involves removing all the carb linkages..

in my experience, going that far is probably seldom necessary..
just taking the bowl off, but not touching all the linkages, then doing the cleaning
and adjusting, is probably all that is needed 90% of the time..

Scot


----------



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

Thanks, Scot. I am of a similar repair mentality, try things by steps.

Little confused because the carb facing me when I remove the cover looks different than your photo. I have the spring/flap primer button attaching to the center of the unit as it faces me and it is more of an "ear" facing outwards.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Can you post a picture and also the numbers off the engine ??


----------



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

If it gets slightly warmer I will take a picture from the side with the cover over the choke, primer and throttle linkage removed.

Engine is Tecumseh Model H70-130067A serial 1267R


----------



## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

For that engine I'm coming up with P/N 631793 $50-60 on ebay new.

631793 | eBay

Rebuild kit $10-$20
Genuine Tecumseh 31840 Carburetor Overhaul Kit

Google: https://www.google.com/search?q=631793&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=31840+rebuild+kit


Thread on different forum doing an Ariens blowers carb too: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/37738-carb-rebuild-on-a-tecumseh/


----------



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

O.K. now I realize the "ear" I have been speaking of is the bolted on spring/plunger primer addition. The leak was coming right out of the center of this under the spring plunger stem, down that flange to the ground.









Once I removed the 2 Phillips screws, there was a gasket then I got to see the carburetor,








Unfortunately, I tried taking the bowl off with the unit in norma position and now I have the needle, clip and bowl to re-install. I should be able to clean it some and put it all back together if I stand the sno-thro on its nose, correct? I didn't see anything obvious that would be causing the leak, but I will pay attention to the direction for the clip.


----------



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

Well, I took off the bowl and cleaned things up a bit. Made sure the needle clip was facing the right direction, cleaned the holes in the jets, etc. Not a full carburetor rebuild by any means, but I thought I could detect a problem. The bowl is not shaped uniformly on the bottom. Does it have to face a specific direction. Could it be that the seal between the bowl and the carburetor body is the culprit?

Still as soon as I opened up the fuel control valve below the fuel tank, the carburetor starting leaking downward. Couldn't start the sno-thro as it must be immediately flooded with the leaking starting as soon as I open the fuel line.

Not sure if I should just have my small engine shop do the repair, or go out and buy a replacement carburetor? Is the latter just a bolt on replacement job with the hardest part attaching the linkage?


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The bowl is suppose to be aligned so that the straight line that goes across the bottom lines up with the float pin and the deeper side of the bowl accepts the float when it sinks. Did you replace the needle and seat? Did you blow through the gas line with air? The air can push the seat out. It could be your float has a leak. Did you try shaking it next to your ear and listening for liquid inside of it?

Here is a link with some great pictures followed by 2 youtube links from people who make great videos.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a

https://www.youtube.com/user/donyboy73/search?query=tecumseh+carb

https://www.youtube.com/user/MultiKhaz/search?query=tecumseh+carb


----------



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

Thanks I do not have the bowl oriented correctly. I will align it as you described, but it is still probably not my fuel leak problem.

I did not blow air through the line, just cleaned things up a bit and looked over the needle seating. As soon as I open up the fuel shutoff under the fuel tank, it starts to leak downward from the carburetor.


----------



## KennyW in CT (Feb 24, 2015)

The way I check floats for leaks is to hold (submerge) them in a container of Hot water. The air in the float will expand and if any pinholes will be forced out as tiny air bubbles. Pretty foolproof method. 
The seats on the other hand are succeptible to swelling if sprayed with carb cleaner. If you are reusing the old seat, make sure the float rests level with the carb body when the needle contacts the seat. I know Tecumseh says use a 7/32 drill bit but level works too. Since you put the blower on end, gravity won't let the float/needle fall onto the rubber seat so you will have to lift it. lift it just until you feel it touching the seat. If the float isn't level at this point, either the old/new seat is swelled up, or the new seat isn't down all the way. you have to make sure the float is at the correct position when needle contacts seat or else there won't be enough fuel in the bowl (float too low) and it will run rough and stall out.


----------



## KennyW in CT (Feb 24, 2015)

Just an FYI, I find that Gumout and STP Carb Cleaners swell the Tecumseh seats the most. If you don't have to remove the seat, plug off the hole where it resides so no cleaner hits it. I made a rubber plug to block off this hole after the needle comes out so I can spray away at the rest of the carb. If the fuel line is disconnected, plug the barb fitting as well. I think the toluene in the cleaners is what's doing it. You could also use gasoline as a solvent but like with any solvent, be careful of vapors and sparks as they could ignite!


----------



## KennyW in CT (Feb 24, 2015)

Don't rule out pinholes in the float bowl as well. I had one where the hole was just at the point of the fuel level when the needle shut if off and would only leak when the machine moved. Then when it leaked, it "wet" the bowl until it formed a droplet on the adjusting screw head and dripped off. Drove me crazy thinking the bowl nut gasket or adjuster screw o-ring were leaking. I now have a two pieces of rubber that I use to test float bowls. I place a rubber sheet on a piece of flat steel, place the bowl on the sheet, then clamp a circular piece of rubber over the bowl nut hole and drop it into a pail of hot water, same results as the float test. Found a few pinholes this way.


----------



## gkamieneski (Feb 25, 2015)

Well it is off to the shop for an eval. Just before they picked it up I had positioned the bowl correctly and was finally having some success starting it without leaks. However, as soon as I put the shroud back on that covers the linkages and carburetor, the leak began again. I cannot explain this as it is just a cover that the primer button, choke control and throttle cable passes through.


----------



## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

Did you check to make sure your float had not developed a leak and is not floating ? filling up ? the needle wont seat if the float went bad.


----------

