# What is your prefered engine oil !!!



## mobeasto123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Hi guys, 

Which of all those engine oil is your prefered for your snowblower.. I know Honda recommend a 5w-30 SJ or later.. And I also know that SM or SN are a bit too much for air cooled engine cause there is less zinc and are prefered for engine with catalytic converter and liquid cooled ..

So wich one over all brand do you use and why

Thanks 
David


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## craftyman (Jan 25, 2014)

I run Pennzoil platinum full synthetic in every engine I have. 5w-20 in my vehicles and 5w-30 in my snowblower and lawn mower. biggest reason I use it is because I find it cleans very well and it is ranked very high against the major brands (mobile 1) for a much lesser cost


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## WestminsterFJR (Dec 30, 2013)

I'm not picky on oil for my OPE's. Either a full or blended synthetic 5W-30 will do. Whatever is on sale. I currently have a batch of Quaker State full syn that I picked up at a great deal. That will last me for the next 2 seasons.


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## Kestral (Dec 22, 2013)

After doing extensive reading on small engine oil I have come to the decision as long as you choose the correct grade for the outside temp you are running and change it once a season your engine will last for years. My grandfather would run the used oil he got out of his jeep after 3,000 miles in his John Deere tractor and he ran that tractor for 30+ years. I have run many different oils in my small motors most of them cheep 5 or 10/30 grade. Now I usually run Wall Mart Supertech synthetic 5/30. A little advice don't overthink this! It will drive you crazy.


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## 59ctd (Jan 25, 2014)

For many years I've used Valvoline dino 5w30 in the snow blower and lawnmowers. I've recently switched to Amsoil because I've had super success and long life running it in my truck. Like stated above I think it is really important to change the oil every year before starting use of the machine for the season. I think the regular oil changes each year are FAR more important than what brand or type of oil is used.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

right now there is mobile 1 in my two stage snowblowers


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## 69ariens (Jan 29, 2011)

I use just plain old fashion 10/30 . in my lawn mowers i put about 3000, hrs on them and I hear guy's that put the syn are only getting the same hr's as my non syn engines.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

69ariens said:


> I use just plain old fashion 10/30 . in my lawn mowers i put about 3000, hrs on them and I hear guy's that put the syn are only getting the same hr's as my non syn engines.


 if you go strictly by when the oil should be changed it doesn't matter. lets say the maker of your snowblower says to change oil yearly or every 25hrs then thats what you should do the manufacture didn't say " if you use synthetic oil you can change the oil every two years or 50hrs " it still yearly or 25hrs regardless of which type of oil you use. i don't use synthetic oil in my lawn equiptment, tintops or my motorcycles, the tintops and lawn equiptment get castrol gtx and the motorcycles get castrol 20w 50 for motorcycles


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

I put in whatever I buy when I think of it. I keep it a touch overfull and change it more often than necessary.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

I ONLY USE/RUN CASTROL 10/30 FULL SYNTHEIC OIL. DRIVE HARD!!!!!!!!!!


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Mobil 1 - in Everything I Own (that has a crankcase)


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Whatever full synthetic 5W30 is on sale. I've used Mobil1, Castrol, Valvoline, NAPA & Oreilly house brands and they all do a great job in the lawn and garden machinery.


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

I'm not very picky about motor oil except to change it every season and check it as to its level. I use either a 5w30 or 10w30 grade oil..whatever I have on hand. Never had issues with excessive carbon buildup or fouling. When I drain my oil at the end of the season, it looks really clean. I am old school, but I will listen to arguments for switching to synthetics. My Tacoma came new with full synthetic, but my Rav4 didn't. MH


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## Kestral (Dec 22, 2013)

I think that if you keep your snowblower in a garage that is attached to your house and if it stays simi warm I see little benefit to running a synthetic. The pump ability factor of today's non synthetic 5/30 oils with temps above say 15F are just fine for this application. I can see a benefit below zero on start up but as far as when the engine is running I see little benefit. The wear factor will be negligible if any difference at all. High heat stress is not a problem in a snowblower and it's not like you are running them for real long hrs on end or in most cases anyway. When I dump my snowblower oil in the spring it may have 15 hrs on it 20 max and that is not much. Synthetics do clean better but I have seen 20 year old snowblower motors apart that we're so-so maintained that had little if any deposits in them. If you took two of the same models and ran one with a quality synthetic and one with a quality Dino oil run them for 10 years then took them apart I would bet the wear difference would be little to nothing. Although I don't claim to be an expert I do sometimes stay at a Holiday Inn Express now and then if that matters...


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I guess I'm looking at an engine that is running in temps that regularly get below zero and can get to -30 on occasion. That and the engine is running almost all it life at maximum RPM. Kind of like a boat. It may be a chevy small block in your boat the same as your car but you normally have it at or near full throttle most of the time. It makes sense to take a bit more car of it.

For the extra couple of bucks it makes me feel better. Just like not buying the cheapest dog food simply because it gets the job done.


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## Kestral (Dec 22, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I guess I'm looking at an engine that is running in temps that regularly get below zero and can get to -30 on occasion. That and the engine is running almost all it life at maximum RPM. Kind of like a boat. It may be a chevy small block in your boat the same as your car but you normally have it at or near full throttle most of the time. It makes sense to take a bit more car of it.
> 
> For the extra couple of bucks it makes me feel better. Just like not buying the cheapest dog food simply because it gets the job done.


Great points there ... Good thread here nice to see how people feel on this subject.


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## jmb3675 (Dec 31, 2013)

I just did 2 of mine. The tag on the Briggs engines say to use 5w-20 in winter. I use synthetic blend 5w-20 because that's what my cars use and I figure it is at least a little better than standard oil and both are usually the same price. I am not too picky about brand, but I do stick with name brands. This last time I used Citgo because it was on sale.


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## YazooMan (Nov 16, 2013)

Amsoil and everything I own.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

*oil..*

Full synthetic.. usually Mobil-1 (5w30) At one oil change a season your looking at less than $10/yr per machine. I personally think running it low or dirty or to thick a weight (like straight 30) is more concern than the oil make. my thought anyway.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

I run GC (German Castrol) 0w30 in my blowers. It's a full synthetic.


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## InfernoST (Feb 12, 2014)

Castrol Dino 5w-30


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## gsnod (Sep 2, 2013)

Since I keep my blower in the garage, I run either 5-30 dino or synthetic, depending upon what I've got open. Since I was lucky to pick up some Quaker State full synthetic for $1 a quart a few months ago, my guess is I'll be using that in all my small engine equipment.


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## Marty013 (Mar 14, 2014)

0w-30 castrol syntech.. i figure if temps gotta drop to below -20c before i feel a difference cranking it to life (no garge to be heated) its wort the extra couple bux  plus it isnt like we need gallons in our engines.. cheap insurance maybe??


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## SnowGuy69 (Feb 12, 2014)

I use full synthetic oil. Usually Mobil 1 5-30 Extended or Redline or any other good quality oil, with high zinc content if possible. The logic is, I paid a lot of money for my blower. One oil change per year, I am not going to take a chance on buying anything but a top quality oil. An interesting read for anyone wanting to know more about oil: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/


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## ToroGuy (Jan 12, 2014)

Castrol GTX 5W-30


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Amsoil products in all my engines. Amsoil 5W/30 in all of my 4 strokes including my automobiles and lawn mowers, snowblowers and Doodle Beast minibike and Amsoil interceptor in my snowmobiles and personal watercraft. Amsoil HP for my premix gas/oil in my 50hp outboard engine for my fishing boat.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I've been using Mobil 1. After doing some reading last year, I'm moving to Mobil 1 High Mileage, due to the higher ZDDP content. That is supposed to be better for small engines (such as for camshafts, I think). My understanding is the ZDDP levels were reduced to reduce damage to catalytic converters on cars. 

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

I think Amsoil makes an oil specifically for small engines, which likely has more ZDDP and is even better suited. I've only heard good things about Amsoil products. But with it being harder to find locally, and maybe being more expensive (I think) have kept me with Mobil 1. 

As was said previously, it's also easy to over-think this  I spent too much time reading about oils for a different small engine of mine. Realistically, using a good oil (I prefer synthetic), and changing it yearly, is likely plenty.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

*Amsoil*

I use Amsoil exclusively in 3 cars and truck, lawn tractor, snowblowers, pressure washer, go cart. Also use the 100:1 mixing oil 2-stroke in the 3 vintage David Bradley chain saws, weed wacker, and newer Stihl chainsaw.

in my daily driver cars I use the 10-30, 100% synthetic, that is good for 25,000 mile oil changes, with a filter change every 12,500 miles. No BS. I've used that oil and change schedule on 6 different vehicles, since 1988. The 2 Saturns 1994 and 1995 models, both were driven to 220,000 miles each on respective odometers before being sold, and were running good when sold and driven away by happy buyers. The 1995 Grand Prix went to 180,000 before being sold to a local college kid as a commuter for school. Our current Monte Carlo has 180,000 and the Saturn wagon has 190,000 miles on them now.

the oil can't be beat for longevity. The only issue I've run into is, over the long run it tends to leak oil past the crank seals and valve cover gaskets more easily than petroleum based oils, so the seals must be in good condition. If they are borderline then it will leak some i.e. drops on the garage floor or driveway. Regardless I choose to live with this drawback because instead of changing the oil 8 TIMES in 25,000 miles, I only change it ONCE. Add oil as needed between change intervals.

at $7 a quart it may sound like a lot, but petroleum is $3 a quart now anyway, and I don't have to drain and get rid of a ton of old oil every few years, using the Amsoil instead.

I save the old Amsoil drained from the cars, filter it with painters filters, and pour it in my old 1982 Ford F150 as needed. The truck doesn't smoke and loves that oil. I only use the truck for hauling, firewood, scrapping, parts chasing, junkyard runs, etc. and it's been fed drain oil from the cars since I bought it 10 years ago. It only had ONE new oil change in it's life here.

the dirty little secret (no pun intended) about synthetic oils is, back in the old days when it was first invented, it was used by racers, and they didn't change the oil and throw it away- they drained it, cleaned/scrubbed the oil and filtered it, and put it back in- that's how good it is. Not being an organic natural base like petroleum, synthetic can be cleaned like a piece of plastic and re-used, providing there's not a lot of fuel dilution. You can feel the difference in the consistency just by rubbing it between your fingers.


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