# You Guys Who Modified Your Second Stage, Did It Help Much? <



## driz

I saw the youtube and had some belt from my old treadmill so went and put those impeller seals on. The video looked promising. I still haven't had a chance to try it on slush but have on regular snow. All I can say is WOW what a difference. Instead of the usual semi solid blast of snow coming out of there it seems more like a solid tube of snow and off hand it's going probably 20% further . 
I will say this stuff we have had since modification is ideal snow as it's been around 0F or thereabouts continually. What surprises me is that for once it looks and acts like one of those advertisements you see . I can't wait to see how it works with the sloppy stuff. 
The only thing I did different that the guy on youtube was put the flap on every ( 3) blades of the impeller. My interest there was just keeping the blade somewhat balanced. 
My only other difference was he said to self tap the 2 screws on each blade. No way with the Ariens. It was so thick I had to predrill the holes for the screws and I used screws with a washer head. My only caution putting those on besides pulling the spark plug lead is this. Jamb up that impeller blade really well . When you are pushing on the drill waiting for that moment it's gonna go through WATCH THE FINGERS holding the drill, particularly the one on the trigger. When it goes through the rather sharp edge of the chute mount is right there waiting for you.  Put something like a towel over it so you don't get a black fingernail. If the impeller is hardened steel like mine you can't just "keep it light" as it just won't cut.


----------



## Prof100

Yes is the answer to your question regarding how well it works. And yes, I put one on each impeller. Adding just one is simply not the brightest thing to do. It certainly is easier but long term it will hurt the impeller bearings or bushings. Bottom line is it works great and now I see the snow plume shooting high and far. I have not tried it in wet snow.

I installed it on a 1989 Bolens 5210 5 hp Tecumseh 2 stage snow blower. I used the "SnowBlowerImpellerKit.com" kit. I wanted a developed and proven kit, not a DIY kluge of parts and materials. As it turned out, no matter the kit you buy you have to fit it to your snow blower because no two are the same. The owner of snowblowerimpellerkit.com will custom cut the rubber and metal backing plates if you give him the size of the impeller flat surface. So, you don't have to do any cutting of the rubber and steel bracket or backing plate. You won't need the last three items on the below list.

I used the following items to install the snow blower impeller kit;



Open end wrenches
3/8" socket set with extension
Harbor Freight Stepped Drill
18 volt Dewalt drill
7 inch Kobalt extension for the drill
Motor oil (to lube the drill tip)
Silicone spray (to lube the inside of the housing)
3 foot long 2" x 2" piece of wood to lock the impeller in place for drilling
Box cutter (to trim rubber)
Bandsaw or hacksaw to custom cut the steel backing plates with holes
Disk sander or file to debur and radius the edges

It took about an hour to install the impeller kit.


----------



## Shryp

Funny you should mention the smashing if the fingers when the drill pops through. I had the same issue.


----------



## Prof100

Shryp said:


> Funny you should mention the smashing if the fingers when the drill pops through. I had the same issue.


A stepped drill with a long extension helps minimize such smashing. Both the step drill and the long extension are finger saving options for drilling.


----------



## caddydaddy

Prof100 said:


> It took about an hour to install the impeller kit.


The impeller on my Cub Cadet has an angled piece like that. I just bent the metal backing plate to follow along with it, so there's more area covered by the rubber. Works great!


----------



## Joe25da

I made my own. Did a write up titled toro 11/32 mods. I used a truck mudflap from napa $12 and my assorted 1/4 20 hardware


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I like the way it performs. I bought the "Bailer Belt" at a farm supply store and cut it to size and bolted it down.


----------



## driz

One thing for sure. With that large backer plate rig you darned well better make sure it's equally spaced for balance. I doubt a 2" x 4" piece of mud flap or treadmill belt and a couple self tapping sheet metal screws wouldn't unbalance it much but that big backer probably would. 
You wouldn't want to ruin that bushing your impeller runs on. Mine was shot with about a 1/16" wobble and I replaced it last year. I don't think there was one single piece left in that gear box by the time I had that pig so it would come out. What a mess and all greasy and interconnected. It's definitely not something I want to do again for a long long while.


----------



## Prof100

caddydaddy said:


> The impeller on my Cub Cadet has an angled piece like that. I just bent the metal backing plate to follow along with it, so there's more area covered by the rubber. Works great!


We will have to have a snow tossing contest.


----------



## pweerc

Hello,
I have scapped out 3 or 4 treadmills and none of the belts seemed thick enough to use. I am afraid that when you get into the slush the rubber might bend backward leaving the slush to build up-clogging? I used the sidewall of a truck tire and this wet/heavy snow we got in lower Michigan didnt slow it down any. Hope it works ok for you.


----------



## Biketrax

*Yes i did!*

Works like a champ! USED All spare parts I used squeegee rubber


----------



## driz

Shryp said:


> Funny you should mention the smashing if the fingers when the drill pops through. I had the same issue.


Yup, dumb as it sounds it's the worst I have smashed my fingers in 20 years and I was right there waiting for it to break through and it still got me. I'm just now a month later waiting for the rest of my fingernail to get done peeling off.


----------



## corvairbob

so what is the advantage of this mod? does it ride on the outer part the the second stage and then this does not allow anything to get by the impeller? is that what this mod does? i just got a poulan pro and it tosses the snow way further that the sears i had before and that tossed the snow far. it was a large machine that needed the steering to be able to maneuver it. my poulan has the same steering and it is larger thans the sears and tosses the snow more. 
maybe in the slush this od will work better? thanks


----------



## Prof100

corvairbob said:


> so what is the advantage of this mod? does it ride on the outer part the the second stage and then this does not allow anything to get by the impeller? is that what this mod does? i just got a poulan pro and it tosses the snow way further that the sears i had before and that tossed the snow far. it was a large machine that needed the steering to be able to maneuver it. my poulan has the same steering and it is larger thans the sears and tosses the snow more.
> maybe in the slush this od will work better? thanks



The are two benefits of a Snow blower Impeller kit modification.

1. Increase throwing distance.
2. Reduce the likelihood of wet snow plugging the chute and impeller.

Yes, it closes the gap between the 2nd stage impeller and the housing. Some snow blowers have a half inch or more. 

Do a google search for "snow blower impeller kit videos" and several videos will show up. One even has before and after video in wet snow.


----------



## WestminsterFJR

I used the sidewall of an old tire. It makes a big difference in the slushy stuff.


----------



## driz

corvairbob said:


> so what is the advantage of this mod? does it ride on the outer part the the second stage and then this does not allow anything to get by the impeller? is that what this mod does? i just got a poulan pro and it tosses the snow way further that the sears i had before and that tossed the snow far. it was a large machine that needed the steering to be able to maneuver it. my poulan has the same steering and it is larger thans the sears and tosses the snow more.
> maybe in the slush this od will work better? thanks



It works just like the rings on a piston as a flexible seal to a loosely fitted moving part. I can't understand why none of the manufacturers put this on themselves.


----------



## PixMan

driz said:


> It works just like the rings on a piston as a flexible seal to a loosely fitted moving part. I can't understand why none of the manufacturers put this on themselves.


Good question, one I've also pondered.

It could be money. If the fitment couldn't be "pre engineered" and installed as part of the original assembly, the cost per unit would be sky high. Even is the holes for attachment on the impeller were drilled prior to welding the impeller into shape, I think fastening the flexible material to the impeller and setting the clearance (or lack thereof) to the housing would be labor intensive. 

The workers assembling are likely on "piecework" rates (here) or unskilled labor (China.) Either way, there would likely be a lot of variation in the performance and that may be part of the reason it's not done by the makers. Fitted by hand as we would, the fit is snug and effective.

It's all about the money.


----------



## chapel

Prof100 said:


> A stepped drill with a long extension helps minimize such smashing. Both the step drill and the long extension are finger saving options for drilling.


good idea.


----------



## Prof100

PixMan said:


> Good question, one I've also pondered.
> 
> It could be money. If the fitment couldn't be "pre engineered" and installed as part of the original assembly, the cost per unit would be sky high. Even is the holes for attachment on the impeller were drilled prior to welding the impeller into shape, I think fastening the flexible material to the impeller and setting the clearance (or lack thereof) to the housing would be labor intensive.
> 
> The workers assembling are likely on "piecework" rates (here) or unskilled labor (China.) Either way, there would likely be a lot of variation in the performance and that may be part of the reason it's not done by the makers. Fitted by hand as we would, the fit is snug and effective.
> 
> It's all about the money.


I can understand why they don't tighten up the clearance between the impeller and housing. Weldments are a son of a gun to produce repeatedly and make round. They warp during welding. A housing should be round not oval but if you ever see how a housing or similar weldment is made they all end up oval. A piece of flat steel is rolled and then butt welded together. The impeller pieces are probably laser cut and then fixtured for welding. That's how you end up with tolerances of 1/4 to over a 1/2 an inch between the housing and impeller blades. My 1989 Bolens 2 stage impeller to housing clearance varied from a 1/4" to over 1/2". The mfg. and owner of the snow blower doesn't want the metal impellers to hit the metal housing so each is made to have sufficient clearance. The impeller wipers (i.e., impeller kits) closes the gap and seals the impellers to the housing so you get more distance when tossing so and reduce the likelihood of plugging when blowing wet snow. 

The wipers, according to Pandabear who rebuilt a 1971 posted a link to replacement paddles you can still buy from ereplacementparts.com. Each replacement costs $17.56.










Below is Pandabear's awesome rebuild of 1971 machine. Not the Impeller is 90 degrees from what you usually see.









The feature was dropped. 

Bill


----------



## MnJim

Has anyone installed these on the newer Ariens 2013-2015?
Looking at the impeller there doesn't seem to be much of a flat area.


----------



## Shryp

I haven't, but like was said earlier I bent my metal brackets to the angle of the front piece of the impeller and cupped them around the curve.


----------



## caddydaddy

Shryp said:


> I haven't, but like was said earlier I bent my metal brackets to the angle of the front piece of the impeller and cupped them around the curve.


Yes, here's how I did it on my Cub. I ordered the 3" wide kit. The extra washer was because I had to slightly enlarge the hole to get the screw to align right.


----------



## Prof100

The Impeller kit was factory installed by Simplicity back in the early 1970's. See post 19 of this thread.


----------



## caddydaddy

Prof100 said:


> The Impeller kit was factory installed by Simplicity back in the early 1970's. See post 19 of this thread.



Yeah, you posted that.  We're not in 1970, so we have to do a modern solution.


----------



## Prof100

caddydaddy said:


> Yeah, you posted that.  We're not in 1970, so we have to do a modern solution.


 It is the same solution, but we have to do it. I posted the picture only to document we didn't invent a thing, we just copied what was done 45 years ago.


----------



## caddydaddy

Prof100 said:


> It is the same solution, but we have to do it. I posted the picture only to document we didn't invent a thing, we just copied what was done 45 years ago.


That is interesting that is was done way back then. Strange that it's not OE as a lot of people add it today. Was someone claiming to invent this procedure?


----------



## Prof100

caddydaddy said:


> That is interesting that is was done way back then. Strange that it's not OE as a lot of people add it today. Was someone claiming to invent this procedure?


No false claims from anyone saying they invented it, but simply a lack of attribution of what was a good idea years ago and dropped for what was probably a cost saving action. Most likely the lack of attribution to Simplicity is simply not knowing it was done years ago. And, I suppose knowing about its history is what could be called a "FHWK" (a Fact Hardly Worth Knowing).


----------



## Prof100

Shryp said:


> I haven't, but like was said earlier I bent my metal brackets to the angle of the front piece of the impeller and cupped them around the curve.


 My 89 Bolens had a weld bead at the chute that made mounting the bent the Impeller kit up the angled piece problematic. I would have had to trim it the rubber so much it would have just gone for ride on the rest of the housing surface and doing nothing.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I think the impeller mod back then just wasn't worth the cost of installing it to the manufacturer. It was a great idea but likely didn't add to sales so they dropped it.


----------



## Bror Jace

_"I think the impeller mod back then just wasn't worth the cost of installing it to the manufacturer. It was a great idea but likely didn't add to sales so they dropped it."_

Am I the only one surprised that Ariens, Simplicity or some other quality manufacturer hasn't offered it again? Seeing the before 'n after videos, you'd think it it's a "no-brainer."

The cost of adding shims/paddles, with the impeller out of the machine, would be $10? $20? What's that in a machine that will retail for $1,000 - $3,000+ ??

And, it's another consumable set of parts they can sell to users after the initial purchase of the unit (like belts, skids, shear pins, etc...).

Maybe it's because the machine can freeze up if left in a really cold area after use?


----------



## Pandaguy

I think it made a big difference, most noticeable in wet and slushy snow. 

This is from last winter, no snow to speak of in Mlps this winter, this is about 3-4 inches of wet heavy heart attack snow. The blower is my Poulan Pro with a 5hp engine.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I think it's just cost vs benefit. If you don't know about it you don't know you're missing anything. It's easier for them to toss a pair of clips and a plastic shovel on the housing rather than drill the impeller, cut material and attach.

It's like a lot of things a "car guy" might do for his car. They are a small percentage of purchasers and most people only care that the cup holder isn't in the way of the radio or nav system.

When you think about it, most snow blower headlights really suck and you'd think by now there would be enough complaints for the manufacturers to have come out with ones that even if installed in the control panel have a hood or housing that keeps the light out of the operators eyes. And yet that trend continues because it's cheap and easy and when you're looking at one in the store, headlight is something that's perceived as value added.

The other option would be to just close up some of that gap in manufacturing. On my troy I can get a finger between the housing and impeller !!


----------



## Toro-8-2-4

Prof100 said:


> My 89 Bolens had a weld bead at the chute that made mounting the bent the Impeller kit up the angled piece problematic. I would have had to trim it the rubber so much it would have just gone for ride on the rest of the housing surface and doing nothing.


Could you grind some of that weld bead away? If it is protruding significantly you may be able to get away with it. Of course you don't want to compromise what the weld is doing? Just a thought.


----------



## Shryp

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Could you grind some of that weld bead away? If it is protruding significantly you may be able to get away with it. Of course you don't want to compromise what the weld is doing? Just a thought.


I did that on my Ariens before I repainted it.


----------



## Prof100

Toro-8-2-4 said:


> Could you grind some of that weld bead away? If it is protruding significantly you may be able to get away with it. Of course you don't want to compromise what the weld is doing? Just a thought.



Yes, I could have but decided it was not worth the bother. My goal was to simply install the impeller kit without getting carried away or having to repair the weld then repaint. I didn't want a fabrication project (been there done that). It works fine as installed.


----------



## DaHen

Just ordered a kit this evening for my good old John Deere TRS26. With the amount of snow we've been getting here in New England this season, hopefully I'll be able to try it out this season.

Now where did I put my drill.............


----------



## Kielbasa

"You Guys Who Modified Your Second Stage, Did It Help Much?"

Sure did, the (WAX) does wonders. 

After watching the video that PandaGuy posted I wanted to chime in. 


Here is a photo of my machine throwing about 5"-7" of the same kind of heaiver wet(ish) snow that PandaGuy is throwing. I am throwing north) to the right, over the fence and I think I am hitting my neighbors deck railing in which I figure to be (around) 30' (+) away. No impeller kit. Just good old fashion car wax on everything that you see inside the bucket.

My machine might have possibly about 1/8" (+ - ) of a gap in the impeller area.

Now I can honestly see that adding a rubber blade extension to the impeller fins blocking any space, with out question, but with adding how much to the throwing distance? I have read from 20% up to 70%? That would be anywhere from 6'-21' to my 30' in this photo, correct? I just find it sort of hard to believe adding any where from the 40%-70% range. 

In reguards to guys hurting their fingers when drilling holes in to the impeller fins. How come no one is removing the auger and impeller assemblies, which only takes maybe 10-15 minutes? and then making exact measurements on each impeller fin so that all holes are in pretty much the same spot? Then just loosely pre installing the rubber blades on to the fins until you slide the assembly back in and then making the proper fit? I for one would never tackle this job by drilling holes through the exit hole and asking for my fingers to get slammed against any metal. To me it would just make the job easier to remove the assembly. Plus you could do an expection to the auger asembly and so forth. 

I personally do not like the idea of rubber always rubbing up against the paint in the impeller body area. That area always needs paint to be slippery and allow the snow to exit with as much ease as possble. 

A rubber paddle rubbing against bare metal would cause a certain amount of drag and a bit more stress on the engine, no? 

I have thought about getting another impeller fan and preparing it for a kit and some day when I possibly felt up to it, installing it prior to my next interior bucket respray. 

Just my two cents............


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Or once you repaint your impeller housing you could line it with a piece of stainless steel so you don't have the rubber taking the paint off 

The impeller kit doesn't create much drag as the rubber wears down pretty fast if installed when it's warm and dry out, like summer and run for a little while. It wears down to it's own clearance. In winter it's "lubed" with the snow and slush


----------



## Prof100

Kielbasa said:


> "You Guys Who Modified Your Second Stage, Did It Help Much?"
> 
> Sure did, the (WAX) does wonders.
> 
> After watching the video that PandaGuy posted I wanted to chime in.
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of my machine throwing about 5"-7" of the same kind of heaiver wet(ish) snow that PandaGuy is throwing. I am throwing north) to the right, over the fence and I think I am hitting my neighbors deck railing in which I figure to be (around) 30' (+) away. No impeller kit. Just good old fashion car wax on everything that you see inside the bucket.
> 
> My machine might have possibly about 1/8" (+ - ) of a gap in the impeller area.
> 
> Now I can honestly see that adding a rubber blade extension to the impeller fins blocking any space, with out question, but with adding how much to the throwing distance? I have read from 20% up to 70%? That would be anywhere from 6'-21' to my 30' in this photo, correct? I just find it sort of hard to believe adding any where from the 40%-70% range.
> 
> In reguards to guys hurting their fingers when drilling holes in to the impeller fins. How come no one is removing the auger and impeller assemblies, which only takes maybe 10-15 minutes? and then making exact measurements on each impeller fin so that all holes are in pretty much the same spot? Then just loosely pre installing the rubber blades on to the fins until you slide the assembly back in and then making the proper fit? I for one would never tackle this job by drilling holes through the exit hole and asking for my fingers to get slammed against any metal. To me it would just make the job easier to remove the assembly. Plus you could do an expection to the auger asembly and so forth.
> 
> I personally do not like the idea of rubber always rubbing up against the paint in the impeller body area. That area always needs paint to be slippery and allow the snow to exit with as much ease as possble.
> 
> A rubber paddle rubbing against bare metal would cause a certain amount of drag and a bit more stress on the engine, no?
> 
> I have thought about getting another impeller fan and preparing it for a kit and some day when I possibly felt up to it, installing it prior to my next interior bucket respray.
> 
> Just my two cents............


 1/8" of clearance is great and that's why you throw snow like it had an impeller kit. Many of us are not as lucky so the Impeller kit is a wonderful addition that is easy to install by taking the chute off, drilling the holes with a stepped drill and an extension. I simply spray on Fluid Film to lubricate and protect the inside of the already rusted inside wall of the impeller housing. One person posted he uses a marine grade of grease to protect the surface and lubricate. 

You seem to be a belt and suspender kind of guy and for you it is "obvious" to dismantle the auger and impeller to facilitate installing an impeller kit. Most tend to simply take off the chute, drill holes in the impeller, install the rubber wiper and repeat until all impeller blades are equipped.


----------



## NorthMaine

I fabbed my own kit, and noticed maybe 3-4' extra distance. This summer I plan on taking the machine apart and repainting. I also think I might add a plastic liner to the inside of the chute as well as close the front of it off to try and maintain a tighter stream.


----------



## caddydaddy

Kielbasa said:


> In reguards to guys hurting their fingers when drilling holes in to the impeller fins. How come no one is removing the auger and impeller assemblies, which only takes maybe 10-15 minutes?
> 
> I for one would never tackle this job by drilling holes through the exit hole and asking for my fingers to get slammed against any metal. To me it would just make the job easier to remove the assembly. Plus you could do an expection to the auger asembly and so forth.


I had no problem drilling the holes through the discharge. I used my air drill, which is smaller than most electric drills, so that probably made it easier.
I used a board to block the impeller so it couldn't turn while I drilled. This allowed me to keep my fingers on the drill and not on the impeller.


----------



## Hugo Jass

caddydaddy said:


> Yes, here's how I did it on my Cub. I ordered the 3" wide kit. The extra washer was because I had to slightly enlarge the hole to get the screw to align right.


I have the same machine, did you split to install or can it be done through the shoot?


----------



## caddydaddy

Hugo Jass said:


> I have the same machine, did you split to install or can it be done through the shoot?


I took the chute off, then it was easily accessible.
Very noticeable difference in the throwing distance, even with dry snow! I can't wait to see how it handles slush. It's been way too cold to have slush though.


----------



## Hugo Jass

Thanks


----------



## greatwhitebuffalo

sorry but I have to fly in the face of tradition here....after trying all my machines this year, they throw plenty far WITHOUT the paddle kits. I was contemplating getting the kits for them, but after clocking up the maximum WOT speed a tad, there's no need for paddles. If it's real actual SNOW a standard snowblower without paddles will do just fine. even a heavy snow.
it's the slush that gets stuck in there and to be honest, you'd be better off pushing that out of the way with a shovel, than trying to snowblow it. it's like trying to snowblower mud.
instead of modifying the machine to do it, just don't do it. plow it instead.
I also don't like the idea of adding all the extra weight to the impeller with the paddle kits, and the drag of the paddles riding inside the housing. if those bolts come loose, and they eventually WILL, they will fly out like bullets and hit things.


----------



## Prof100

greatwhitebuffalo said:


> sorry but I have to fly in the face of tradition here....after trying all my machines this year, they throw plenty far WITHOUT the paddle kits. I was contemplating getting the kits for them, but after clocking up the maximum WOT speed a tad, there's no need for paddles. If it's real actual SNOW a standard snowblower without paddles will do just fine. even a heavy snow.
> it's the slush that gets stuck in there and to be honest, you'd be better off pushing that out of the way with a shovel, than trying to snowblow it. it's like trying to snowblower mud.
> instead of modifying the machine to do it, just don't do it. plow it instead.
> I also don't like the idea of adding all the extra weight to the impeller with the paddle kits, and the drag of the paddles riding inside the housing. if those bolts come loose, and they eventually WILL, they will fly out like bullets and hit things.




Thank goodness we have free will and one is not obligated to follow the recommendations in Snow Blower Forum threads.  

Remember, the impeller kit biggest benefit is the reduction in plugging up when snow blowing wet snow. Greater throwing distance is a very nice bonus. 

I agree, self tapping screws have the highest probability of eventually loosening but a bolt, nylok nut and washer is good for the duration. It will probably rust in place and be a PITA to remove when you want to replace the paddles. So, the paddles, bolts and nuts aren't going anywhere. You are more likely to get a fatique fracture in the housing steel that will render the snow blower on its last legs. 

As far as balance goes I don't think any factory impeller comes balanced from the factory and at 1,000 plus rpm tops the added, equal weight to each impeller is not going to cause any problems. I have seen some You tube videos where only one impeller kit was added to one impeller. I don't understand why someone would knowingly add just one because of the inherent imbalance that results. Adding one to each impeller doesn't cause any imbalance problems. Remember, each impeller kit is the same weight. If anything, the installation of the rubber impeller kit paddles will tend to stabilize the impeller as it rotates in the housing. *A stock impeller / housing design is a single shear design where the spinning impeller is hanging off one bearing.* That is, the rotating impeller is cantilevered. It's probably wearing out the impeller bearing / bushing quicker *without* the impeller kit than *with* the impeller kit. Don't forget the inherent imbalance of one cylinder engine. More loading and wear out is being caused by the vibration from the single cylinder engine than any impeller kit. 

Impeller kit drag in the housing is minimal because it quickly clearances itself within the first few minutes of running after installation. Time to clearance itself varies based on installation. 

I would say over revving the motor by playing with the governor to get more impeller speed can be more damaging and reduce engine reliability.


----------



## caddydaddy

Prof100 said:


> Remember, the impeller kit biggest benefit is the reduction in plugging up when snow blowing wet snow. Greater throwing distance is a very nice bonus.
> 
> I agree, self tapping screws have the highest probability of eventually loosening but a bolt, nylok nut and washer is good for the duration. It will probably rust in place and be a PITA to remove when you want to replace the paddles.


+1 I didn't install an impeller kit to throw snow farther. My Cub throws it farther than I really need it to already! I saw how quickly it clogged up when moving slush, and took the recommendations here to improve the factory design.

The kit I used came with nylock nuts. I don't think they will ever back out. I did put some waterproof grease on the screws so they wouldn't rust in place in the impeller.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

You can always go to the hardware store and get stainless steel bolts and stainless steel nylock nuts. I try to replace anything I can with stainless on my power equipment.
One less thing to rust.

I don't understand the concern over the stress of the rubber on the housing or drag on the motor.  It gets lubricated by snow or slush so it's water cooled and water lubricated and if you run it for any time at all when it's warm outside those slices of rubber wear down to a point where they barely touch pretty quickly on their own.
Add a chunk of plastic sled to line the impeller housing and you don't have to worry about the paint.


----------



## Prof100

Kiss4aFrog said:


> You can always go to the hardware store and get stainless steel bolts and stainless steel nylock nuts. I try to replace anything I can with stainless on my power equipment.
> One less thing to rust.
> 
> I don't understand the concern over the stress of the rubber on the housing or drag on the motor.  It gets lubricated by snow or slush so it's water cooled and water lubricated and if you run it for any time at all when it's warm outside those slices of rubber wear down to a point where they barely touch pretty quickly on their own.
> Add a chunk of plastic sled to line the impeller housing and you don't have to worry about the paint.


 And if you cannot replace with stainless just spray with Fluid Film. It is used for corrosion protection on trucks. I spray the inside of the housing that gets worn and chipped with Fluid Film.


----------



## Bror Jace

Is it absolutely necessary to use a steel backing strip? What about really large flat washers like this one:

https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608037670159519016&pid=15.1&P=0

I was thinking about an inch in outer diameter ... 2 or three per paddle. I have yet to measure my impeller paddles ... or secure belting material.


----------



## Prof100

Bror Jace said:


> Is it absolutely necessary to use a steel backing strip? What about really large flat washers like this one:
> 
> https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608037670159519016&pid=15.1&P=0
> 
> I was thinking about an inch in outer diameter ... 2 or three per paddle. I have yet to measure my impeller paddles ... or secure belting material.


 Fender washers would work fine. The flat steel backing is essentially just a rectangular washer with multiple holes.


----------



## Rob711

I added this to my old 10m6d yesterday. Holy crap, at one point it was pumping water! I was nervous because after installing it I could no longer turn the impeller by hand. But I slowly engaged the impeller and after a few minutes it wore away and I was able to spin by hand. I used 1/2" mat gyms use on the floor and cut up a piece of galvanized deck plate I had. I will post some pics. I'd recomend this to anyone with a two stage machine, I also did a predator 212cc swap.


----------



## Rob711

I didn't take any pics of it all together but u get the idea


----------



## greatwhitebuffalo

I'm still on the fence about the paddle kits. I actually like a short throwing distance, because I use the machine around cars and homes with a lot of exposed glass. my first run is up the driveway BETWEEN the cars, throwing down on the ground low with the Snowbird, the last thing I want is force to machine gun the side of my cars with stones. the small stones just kick harmless out to the side or roll out of the chute onto the ground. I don't want to eject those stones with force a long distance against my neighbors or family's suvs, cars, homes. or my own cars...

the only reason I could see needing those paddles, is on ONE machine for slush and really wet, heavy snow.
but not on every machine I own. I may put them on the 10M L35 as that is only 3.5HP and could use a little help. and maybe on one of the 8HP machines. but not on them all.


----------



## jrsweger

'72 vintage 826 here, impeller mod made a huge difference for me. Now if I could get the drive wheels to work better. This was used and abused before I got it.


----------



## Golfergordy

I have an 8-yr old 2-stage Craftsman 28", w/9 HP Tecumseh engine. I installed the impeller rubber kit just prior to this winter, so I have to recall from last year how far the snow was thrown before the rubber kit installation, but it feels like it throws much farther now with the rubber kit. I made my own rubber kit using the old rubber from my son's Honda HS520, which I changed for him prior to this winter and thought that I should keep the old rubber because it might come in handy for another project some day, which didn't take long since I installed the old Honda rubber on my Craftsman a week later. Also, included with the new Honda rubber kit for the HS520 were new bolts, so I kept the old ones too and used them on the Craftsman. To install the kit on my Craftsman, I had to 1) cut the rubber to fit, 2) cut bolt holes in the rubber, 3) drill holes in the Craftsman impeller, and 4) bolt the rubber to the 3-impeller blades. Using the Honda rubber mounting bolts is ideal for a rubber kit because the diameter is approx. 1/2" where it goes thru the rubber, but 3/16" where the threaded portion goes thru the steel, so the bolts grab the rubber for a good, firm installation.


----------



## Bror Jace

_"I actually like a short throwing distance, because I use the machine around cars and homes with a lot of exposed glass."_

I hear you 'cause I'm in the same boat. I have something of an alley I go down and have to carefully place the snow and change direction and angle a couple times each pass. But can't you angle the deflector down enough to prevent the snow going more than a few feet. My Ariens will make a berm of thrown snow just a few feet from the machine. Dropping the RPMs a little would also work ... assuming you _actually_ get a fair increase in distance. Every machine seems to differ ... as does every impeller mod.

_" I could see needing those paddles ...on ONE machine ... but not on every machine I own."_

Oh yeeaahhh! I hadn't thought of it before as I only have one machine but if I had multiples (and who's kidding who, it's just a matter of time.  ) I'd set them up differently. 

"This here's my main machine ... for the big storms that bury us in powder. And this lil' beast next to it is the machine I modded for when we get hit with the heavy wet stuff. It may not look like much but it would probably throw water! And over here is is the machine I have set up to clear the gravel drive behind the house. I raised 'er up and bolted those ski-looking shoes on it so I can use it on gravel and even make dog trails as deep in the back forty as I want to go ..."


----------



## Prof100

*Test of Impeller kit in wet snow*

2.5" wet snow followed by sleet and then freezing rain was staring at me today so I decided to fire up the Bolens 5210R two stage 5 hp snow blower that has the impeller kit installed. I tried shoveling it but boy was it heavy.

The 5 hp. Bolens was up to the task. The slushy mess did NOT clog the snow blower. IMPRESSIVE! It just picked up the slushy mess and tossed it about 15 feet. If your 2 stage snow blower plugs up with wet snow you can end the plugging and clogging by installing an impeller kit. I am sold on this upgrade. 









Bill


----------



## GustoGuy

Prof100 said:


> 2.5" wet snow followed by sleet and then freezing rain was staring at me today so I decided to fire up the Bolens 5210R two stage 5 hp snow blower that has the impeller kit installed. I tried shoveling it but boy was it heavy.
> 
> The 5 hp. Bolens was up to the task. The slushy mess did NOT clog the snow blower. IMPRESSIVE! It just picked up the slushy mess and tossed it about 15 feet. If your 2 stage snow blower plugs up with wet snow you can end the plugging and clogging by installing an impeller kit. I am sold on this upgrade.
> 
> Bill


Yes, The impeller kit really helps to throw the wet sticky snow and it makes the machine much less likely to clog up with snow. Tosses the dry stuff great. As to distance just adjust your deflector down and you will not hit things


----------



## Golfergordy

Today I was staring at 1-1 1/2" of very wet snow. I know my craftsman 9 HP 2-stage throws the snow farther with the impeller kit, but this was the 1st test with the very wet stuff. It threw the wet snow farther than I remember it throwing last year (prior to the impeller kit), but the big thing I noticed was no chute clogging. I haven't had to clear out a clogged chute even one time this year, whereas I've always had several clogs each year to clear out. Snow blowing was never this much fun!


----------



## Bob J

I have an old Toro 624 and the impeller is seriously heavy duty so ended up drilling and tapping to do the mod.... Had it out for the first time yesterday and was seriously impressed by the improvement! No clogging even in the heavier wet stuff at the end of the driveway and the thrown distance is improved by roughly 50%.


----------

