# St824le?



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Hi All,

I'm new to the forum and am hoping I can both learn a lot here as well as contribute back into the forum at one point. I'm fairly new to snow blowers in general aside from using a friend's from time to time.

I picked up an Ariens ST824LE from a friend because it looked like a decent machine especially for the price (free). The problem is, I can't find anything on this specific machine and anytime I try to find something I get older ST824 models. I'm going to need some springs and other misc parts before I can get it into what I consider to be reliable shape but I have nothing to go off of.

Besides hopefully finding some service information I'm hoping some seasoned members can give me some tips in regards to things I should do when putting one of these back into service. 

My understanding after doing some reading is these blowers are not near as good as a 1970s Ariens, but how do they compare to other machines out there? 

Thank you for your time.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum!!!

Somewhere on it, there's a model and serial. You can go to ariens site and find parts breakdowns and numbers.

http://partsradar.arinet.com/script...F=Empartweb&loginID=ariensc&loginpwd=consumer


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

nt40lanman said:


> Welcome to the forum!!!
> 
> Somewhere on it, there's a model and serial. You can go to ariens site and find parts breakdowns and numbers.
> 
> ' + objMainFrame.arrApplicationTitle['EN'] + ' -- PartSmart Web Version 5.13.23


I wish I could find it.
Though I'll admit I had to rush to get it home last night and ended up putting it away in the dark I looked all over it and couldn't find any such tag. I didn't look under it though but that seemed like an odd place to put it.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> Hi All,
> 
> 
> Besides hopefully finding some service information I'm hoping some seasoned members can give me some tips in regards to things I should do when putting one of these back into service.
> ...


 Welcome to the forum, there are a few things that you should look to get your snow blower in shape and some may chime in if I forget a few.
I would check or replace the belts, then remove both wheels to make sure the axles have some grease on them, remove the bottom plate to access you drive system and lube the hex shaft with a light coating of grease plus oil the chain. Verify your friction disk for good rubber and if it was me I would buy one as extra when it will eventually be needed. Make sure your disk plate your friction disk rides on is clean and you can clean it with a rag with some gas on if needed. Wiggle all shafts that are on bearings and bushings to see if there's any play, impeller shaft, auger shaft, wheel axle shaft.
As for the engine, if it starts and runs good, I would change oil with synthetic 5w-30. Put stabil or equivalent in your gas you purchase and store if not in use for 30 days, regular unleaded is suggested for the Tecumsehs. 
And lastly you have a very good unit there as good as anything in its class.
Good Luck


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Chris 

Usually the ID tag with the info is on the side or back of the transmission body. This one looks to have it on the side.
.


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I'm new to the forum and am hoping I can both learn a lot here as well as contribute back into the forum at one point. I'm fairly new to snow blowers in general aside from using a friend's from time to time.
> 
> ...


The major problem is most people think the Model name is the model number. The trick is that they are both numbers, but ONLY one is the REAL model number, and that's the one on the tiny white emblem affixed to the tractor chassis. It should have a serial number along with it, but on many 1960 machines this is completely worn off or missing. Anyways, this is where you'll find the model number and the only place you'll find the model number unless (in addition to the tag) the frame is stamped (as on later models). 

Any other number on a decal such as ST824, is actually the MODEL NAME and is fairly meaningless and almost worthless when trying to let others know what you have, (and "others" includes parts web sites).


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Normex said:


> Welcome to the forum, there are a few things that you should look to get your snow blower in shape and some may chime in if I forget a few.
> I would check or replace the belts, then remove both wheels to make sure the axles have some grease on them, remove the bottom plate to access you drive system and lube the hex shaft with a light coating of grease plus oil the chain. Verify your friction disk for good rubber and if it was me I would buy one as extra when it will eventually be needed. Make sure your disk plate your friction disk rides on is clean and you can clean it with a rag with some gas on if needed. Wiggle all shafts that are on bearings and bushings to see if there's any play, impeller shaft, auger shaft, wheel axle shaft.
> As for the engine, if it starts and runs good, I would change oil with synthetic 5w-30. Put stabil or equivalent in your gas you purchase and store if not in use for 30 days, regular unleaded is suggested for the Tecumsehs.
> And lastly you have a very good unit there as good as anything in its class.
> Good Luck



Hi Normex,
Thanks for responding. When I work on the unit my plans were to drain the oil and stand it up on the snowbox. Afterwards I'll be filling with Mobil 1 extended performance 5w30 as that's what I use in everything so I have plenty on hand. Does anyone run 0w30 in their machines or is that considered a bad idea?

Is wheel bearing grease considered acceptable for use on everything else?

I'll probably order a new friction disk and belts just because I don't feel like tearing it apart and then having to order parts. Right now my biggest issue is due to lack of room I have to store this in a crawl space. It's a partially heated and very dry space but awkward and the machine needs to be assembled to get it in there.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Welcome to the forum Chris
> 
> Usually the ID tag with the info is on the side or back of the transmission body. This one looks to have it on the side.
> .



Hi Kiss4aFrog, thank you!


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

HillnGullyRider said:


> The major problem is most people think the Model name is the model number. The trick is that they are both numbers, but ONLY one is the REAL model number, and that's the one on the tiny white emblem affixed to the tractor chassis. It should have a serial number along with it, but on many 1960 machines this is completely worn off or missing. Anyways, this is where you'll find the model number and the only place you'll find the model number unless (in addition to the tag) the frame is stamped (as on later models).
> 
> Any other number on a decal such as ST824, is actually the MODEL NAME and is fairly meaningless and almost worthless when trying to let others know what you have, (and "others" includes parts web sites).



Yeah,
I started to get that feeling while trying to figure out what it was. I'm going to try and drag it out today and see if I can find the tag. I was hoping the LE would tell what it really is as I haven't found any with that exact "name" so far.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Grease or oil. I tend to use synthetic wheel bearing grease if I have something apart or I can get it in there and oil where I can't. BUT . . . everyone is different and some only recommend oil on the friction wheel shaft and stuff. Up to you to choose what you think works best.

I use 0-40 in everything and haven't had any problems. I used to get it at Walmart but now I see they stopped carrying it in my area. 
.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Found it!


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> Does anyone run 0w30 in their machines or is that considered a bad idea?
> 
> Is wheel bearing grease considered acceptable for use on everything else?


I've used German Castrol, 0w-30, with no problems. Autozone carry's it. Also you want a grease that is wash resistant, like wheel bearing grease for boat trailer wheel bearings.


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> Found it!


Now take that Model Number and go to the link nt40lanman posted, type in the real model number and you'll have access to the full parts fiche...once you find the parts numbers of your springs and such you can do a web search for different pricing and availability.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If you go here there is a link to manuals.

Support Home Page

You can get owners, service and parts manuals.

The other thing to do is remove the shear pins and see if the augers spin freely. If they don't you need to get them free. If they do grease them up and spin them around before putting the shear pins back in. Make sure you have shear pins and not normal bolts as you don't want the front gearbox breaking if you hit something.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Well,
The snowblower is pretty much complete. I have 16 hours and around $150 into it. When I got it not only did it not run, the throttle was messed up and the drive system was messed up.

Right now it's running ok, though I'm not 100% happy with it. I ended up using an idle mixture screw from another carb even though this carb should have a fixed jet. It seems to fit fine and work correctly, I just wish it wasn't the case. I rebuilt the carb, all new o-rings etc. Also installed a new throttle, flipped the governor lever over as it was upside down, changed the oil and used mobil 1.

I bought a chinese carb for it and really didn't like how it worked, this is actually where the idle mixture screw came from. I was tempted to also swap the main jet but decided to leave it fixed.

Right now, this is what I've got. Don't have any snow yet to really put a load on it and let it really warm up. I guess I'll wait until I can do that until I do any more carb work.







Right now the only things not working right on the snowblower side is the cam lock system that allows 1 lever operation and the electric starter doesn't do anything. Haven't had time to look at the starter.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

So, the so called "junk" Ariens did well yesterday on it's first day since I tore it apart and put it back together properly.

We had very wet snow, but I feel it did good. 

I have two minor things that need to be fixed, well three but the third I don't care about.

1 : The electric starter does nothing, I found this out when working on it but I don't really care. If I do my part properly, I should never need it.

2 : The chute likes to move on it's own from side to side. I think there is a bolt under the plastic cover where the gears are located that I can tighten, but I don't remember?

3 : The single lever operation doesn't work. I already knew this, but I didn't know how much I would want it. I may need to take things apart and grind some off of the cammed part to get it to lock in when the one handle is down. Has anyone else had this issue and found a solution? It seems to be worn just enough that it won't latch.

A very short video the wife took with out 6 month old son watching. Volume is low but if you turn your speakers up it should be fine. Personally, I think the HMSK80 sounded beautiful under load. I'm using the original carb I rebuild with the idle mixture screw from the new junk $20 carb I didn't like. It still has the original fixed main jet, but I found the idle mixture screw to give me a little richer mixture that it liked. How does my speed sound? I thought it sounded slower than 3600, but a decent speed? The carb, throttle and governor were completely messed up when I got it so this is where I ended up after tweaking everything.







All thoughts both positive, neutral and negative welcome!


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Looks like it works good. How can you tell what 3600 rpm sounds like?


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

jenkinsm2 said:


> Looks like it works good. How can you tell what 3600 rpm sounds like?


Guess just from hearing different engines.

For example, the same day I had this 1992 Coleman generator running. I know for a fact it is 3600 rpm based on frequency output from the generator which I measured. Turn your speakers down because the video is loud. So is the generator.







Started first pull without any problems at all other than I needed to richen the main jet a hair, likely due to temperature. I always store it with the gas completely drained from the carb and fuel tank and I run it occasionally as well.


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Thank you, that will help me going forward.

The ariens looks good and its doing it job, I am currently working on an older st824 and I can tell someone rebuilt the carb and replaced the throttle. But they seem like good machines.

Try keeping an eye out on ebay for a electric starter if you really want one, also amazon, I see 3rd party parts on amazon for way less. Other than that the machine sounded good when throwing snow.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Best thing to do is use a tachometer. I use an automotive inductive timing light/tach and just hook it up to a nearby car battery or the riding mowers battery.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Somebody posted this link, in another thread. I have never tried it, but the next time I have a chance, I'm going to give it try. 


How To - Measure RPM's with a Multimeter - Instructional - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

db9938 said:


> Somebody posted this link, in another thread. I have never tried it, but the next time I have a chance, I'm going to give it try.
> 
> 
> How To - Measure RPM's with a Multimeter - Instructional - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum


Not so sure I feel safe doing that with my Fluke 179.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Sigh,

Used the machine some today for a few inches of snow plus some slush from the plows and ended up with carb issues again.

Went from running perfect to running too lean even with partial choke. Not sure if something got stuck in something, perhaps debris from the fuel tank or fuel line, or, if the slightly kinked old fuel like directly under the tank is responsible. I tried to straighten it, but for all I know it could be restricting the flow.

Looks like I need to spend a few more hours on it.


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