# Where do I spray starter fluid?



## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

I bought this Briggs and Stratton from a neighbor two years ago. It was almost new, used just a few times, it started, and ran perfectly. It has not been used in 2 years, we haven't had any big snow. Now it won't start. On my old single stage (that green one in the back), I just spray a little starter fluid by the choke into the air intake, and she starts up easily. Never fails. I assume I can do the same on this new two-stage, but I don't know where to spray. This is all new to me. Any help is appreciated.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Lesson learned ... any machine should be started periodically and run for awhile, regardless if it is used or not.

All gas cans, when you fill them, should get Stabil and 1/3 to 1/2 the rate of SeaFoam. This way your gas in any machine is always protected.

That machine looks brand new, and has the primer bulb as well as the choke. Pump the primer about 4 to 6 times, turn the choke on, and that should fire right up.

If that does not work, you could give it a small shot of ether in the carb entrance, usually some type of hole or slit in the heater box cover, in the front or underside. (Not a good idea to continually use ether on a machine)

If that does not work, you probably have some bad gas which needs to be drained from the tank, lines and carburetor bowl, and maybe even dismantle the carburetor and clean it.

Once you get it running, I am sure you will now take the proper steps in maintaining it going forward to give you years of worry free use.

btw, always check your oil level before running any equipment, and make sure gas is turned on if so equipped., as well as any kill switch.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

OHV engine covers make it hard, you will have to find an area between the mounting studs for the carb and drill a small hole for a spray tube, so it can be reached later as needed, spray, close the choke, start.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

Yes, lesson learned. I did the primer and choke, no start. Where in the photo is the carb entrance or heater box cover?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

if it hasn't been used in 2 years you likely need more than some quick start to get it going. best to just open things up and make sure the carb is clean. if priming the crap out of doesn't work then there is usually an issue in the carb


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Chardo said:


> Yes, lesson learned. I did the primer and choke, no start. Where in the photo is the carb entrance or heater box cover?


you could pour a little gas in plug hole but you still may have a partially clogged carb or fuel delivery issue.

very common problem for blowers sitting for 2 years. bad gas in tank and carb.


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

Always empty or siphone out the old gas from the tank at the end of the season or let the engine run until it dies.This will prevent carburator jet passages from clogging.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

this should get you where you need to be


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I tried to find a diagram but I think you're going to need to remove that cove to find out exactly where the opening of the carb is. I would think it's likely at the lower part of my circle but I don't have an 11.50 like that to find out.
When you push that primer bulb are you hearing it hiss? if you push it two or three times is a a little gas dripping down on the tire from that cover area ? Looks pretty new but some times the primer line comes off at the carb or if your using ethanol gas it can disintegrate.

Have you already unscrewed a couple fasteners from the top of that cover ? If so then all you likely need to do is gently pry up on the choke lever to remove it and the ign key and primer bulb should come loose with the cover.


.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

That was all very helpful. Here's the latest. I removed the cover to expose the carb, sprayed a little starter fluid, and hit the electric start button. Engine fired for a second then stopped. Repeated a few times, same thing. I am not hearing a hiss when I push the primer, no gas is dripping down. Suggestions (with details)? Thanks to all.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Sounds like a carb, gas line cleaning in order, but you could remove the bowl first, might get lucky. Even new carbs are only like 13-18.00 ......

That's why I remind all my family and friends to start and run there blowers throughout the year, especially in the fall, in order that everything is ready for the winter season, and if not, they have time to fix it before the snow flies.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Well the good thing is you have two out of three. You need spark, compression and fuel. You are missing the fuel.
Are you sure the fuel shut off is "ON". Sorry to even ask but every once in a while it happens.
I'd pull off the fuel line at the carb and let it all drain into a container and use some fresh gas that's treated with a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil. I use it with each refill of my gas can.
Once the tank is empty I'd take the bowl off the carb and clean it out and inspect it. Maybe even take a photo to show us what was in there. While the bowl is off good time to shoot some carb cleaner up the jet in the center a few times letting the cleaner sit there for a few seconds between shots to try and dissolve any gum that may have accumulated. 


.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

It is fresh gas with stabilizer. At least mostly, there was a trace of the old stuff left before I added new. Do I still drain it? Fuel shutoff is set to on. I see the fuel line, is it just a matter of loosening that clamp and pulling it off? Where is the bowl? Is the lack of hiss when priming a factor?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

The carb intake would be behind that screen.

Yes, get some needle nose pliers, pull that line with gas shut off in the off position, then turn on the gas, and fuel should flow out.

The bowl is on the underside of the carb, and probably require undoing the front facing carb bracket screws, and maybe other screws screwed into the block, to remove the lower heating box cover to get at it.

The primer looks fine, and what it does by pushing the button, is put a "sucking" effect on the fuel system, thus drawing in fuel into the carb to "prime" it. If there is a hole or rip in the push button rubber, (some have a hole in the center of the button, that gets covered with your finger, that is normal) or a hole or break in that plastic tube going to the carb, it will not perform its intended function.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Well it's best to drain the tank and get it all out.

As said above, needle nose work best on that clamp or pliers and just slide it up. With the valve "OFF". Clamp is at red arrow.
Blue arrow is the primer bulb line to the carb, looks good.

.










Jump to 4:40 on the video and it will show removing the bowl. If your bowl is like the one in the video and has one side deeper than the other the deeper pocket is positioned under the float.
Donyboy73 has great small engine and lawn and garden equipment videos. In the video it gives the nut as a 7/16 and that might work or yours might be metric/, like a 10 or 12 mm.





Now that you have the cover off you can also consider drilling a small hole through the cover in just the right spot to fit the straw from some starting fluid at the carbs intake should you need the help getting it started some time in the future. Saves having to pull the cover.

.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

oneacer said:


> The primer looks fine, and what it does by pushing the button, is put a "sucking" effect on the fuel system, thus drawing in fuel into the carb to "prime" it. If there is a hole or rip in the push button rubber, (some have a hole in the center of the button, that gets covered with your finger, that is normal) or a hole or break in that plastic tube going to the carb, it will not perform its intended function.


I think you have that backwards. When you push the primer bulb it applies pressure to the fuel in the bowl and forces it up through the passages and into the throat of the carb.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

However you state it, point being, the primer pulls/pushes/sucks/throws, etc.... gas into the carburetor throat for a prime, thus primer bulb.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

Would adding some seafoam to the gas help fix this without removing anything?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Highly doubt it ...

All my 5 gallon gas cans get Stabil and 1/3 to 1/2 the rate of SeaFoam when I fill them, this way all my gas is protected no matter what equipment I put it in, as well as mixing it for my 2 cycle gas cans as well.

Going forward, I suggest you do the same.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

nothing you add to the fuel tank now will help fix the carb. you need to remove the float bowl and clean the main jet. it is usually easiest to do this with the machine in the service position(tipped forward on the bucket). you may want to put plastic bag under the cap to make sure it doesn't leak. i usually just use old copper telephone wire to clean out the main jet and most of the time that is all it take but it also generally depends on how things look when i remove the float bowl.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

New dilemma, I can't get the fuel hose off the carb. Clamp is moved, but hose budge.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

you shouldn't need to take the fuel line off to take the float bowl off


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## toms (Nov 17, 2017)

Be very careful with the bowl screws, they are very easy to booger up the heads with a screw driver. I ended up using a needle nose vise grip to crack them loose. I went through this yesterday getting ready for Wednesdays storm. The only difference is mine was sitting unused for 5 years in my shed. It was stored dry but i wanted to check out the bowl for any crud before adding gas.
Turned out all was ok so i put it all back together and it started on the second pull.


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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)

Just to let you know Chardo, using ether to start your 2 stroke engine every time, will shorten the life of that engine. If you can't start it normally, something ain't right.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

strtch5881 said:


> Just to let you know Chardo, using ether to start your 2 stroke engine every time, will shorten the life of that engine. If you can't start it normally, something ain't right.


If you're referring to my old single stage, I don't need the starter fluid every time. Just after a while without use. She's been going strong for 20 years.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

Ok, need some more help. What do I do with this carb to get it going? Do I need to remove the whole thing, or just the bowl? How do I remove the bowl if that's all? And then what?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Turn your fuel shutoff in the off position, then twist that fuel line and pull it off the carb. Place a small cup under the line and turn on the fuel, it should flow into the cup, then turn off fuel and reconnect the line , pulling down its clamp seal.

I would then give it a squirt of starter fluid and try to start it ... If it runs or try's to start, for sure you need to clean the carb.

Start by removing the bowl from the carburetor, noting the position of it, and be careful of the needle valve and spring ... empty the bowl which probably is crap, and spray up some carb cleaner into the underside of the carb, as well as the needle valve seat, and reinstall, being careful of the bowl seal, as well as the needle valve and bowl position. Turn on the fuel, prime it and try to start.

If this does not start and run now, then that carb has to come off for a more thorough cleaning.

JMHO


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

How do I remove the bowl?


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

Chardo said:


> How do I remove the bowl?


Did you watch any of the video I linked? It's the same engine and carb. You can get aftermarket carbs for the 1500 series for less than $20 all day on amazon or ebay.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Chardo,

It seems you are in uncharted territory here, so I will mention further that always be careful with brass and aluminum material and bolt tightening, as well as make sure you wear safety glasses when spraying starter fluid, as you don't want that stuff in your eyes.

Now you know why the importance of periodically starting your equipment year round, thus leaving you time to make repairs, if required, prior to the immediate need for its use.

Is it possible to have a family member or friend or neighbor with some experience in this area to assist you in this repair endeavor?


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

oneboltshort said:


> Did you watch any of the video I linked? It's the same engine and carb. You can get aftermarket carbs for the 1500 series for less than $20 all day on amazon or ebay.


Yes I did. I guess the question is how do I remove the bowl without removing the entire carb? Is it simple as removing that bottom screw/bolt and tapping the bowl free? Or is removing just the bowl a bad idea? Buying a new carb would be a last resort. Hoping to have this running for tomorrow's storm.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

just remove the 1 bolt in the bottom of the carb and remove the bowl.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

Success! I removed the bowl, small bit of crud at the bottom. Cleaned it, sprayed some gumout inside the carb, waited a few minutes and gave it a try. First few pulls caught for a few seconds and died. Realized I was leaving the choke open. Pull, run a second, close choke, success. Let her run about 5 minutes, all good. 

I have taken names, beers for everyone who helped with these noob questions. Noreaster tomorrow? Bring it on.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Fantastic .... Just by performing what you just did gives you a better understanding of your machine .... Keep up the proper maintenance, and keep your gas protected with the additives, and start it periodically, even in the off season .... You have a nice machine, and should get many years of durability ... Stay safe, warm and have fun blowing .....


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

And the trusty Lawn Boy single stage fired up as usual. 21 years, nothing but a new scraper bar. Now I'm ready for anything. I was almost hoping for trouble so I could use my newfound carb repair skills. Almost.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I think this time around, your little single stage is going to take a time out .....


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Chardo said:


> Success! I removed the bowl, small bit of crud at the bottom. Cleaned it, sprayed some gumout inside the carb, waited a few minutes and gave it a try. First few pulls caught for a few seconds and died. Realized I was leaving the choke open. Pull, run a second, close choke, success. Let her run about 5 minutes, all good.
> 
> I have taken names, beers for everyone who helped with these noob questions. Noreaster tomorrow? Bring it on.


Be sure to check the oil before every outing!


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

oneacer said:


> I think this time around, your little single stage is going to take a time out .....


Probably. But it may have some use in some spots. Much more maneuverable.


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## Chardo (Oct 26, 2018)

Rooskie said:


> Be sure to check the oil before every outing!


Oil? What oil?


JK


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## petman2 (Aug 10, 2017)

Chardo said:


> I bought this Briggs and Stratton from a neighbor two years ago. It was almost new, used just a few times, started and ran perfectly. It has not been used in 2 years, we haven't had any big snow. Now it won't start. On my old single stage (that green one in the back), I just spray a little starter fluid by the choke into the air intake, and she starts up easily. Never fails. I assume I can do the same on this new two stage, but I don't know where to spray. This is all new to me. Any help appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 171494
> View attachment 171495





Chardo said:


> Success! I removed the bowl, small bit of crud at the bottom. Cleaned it, sprayed some gumout inside the carb, waited a few minutes and gave it a try. First few pulls caught for a few seconds and died. Realized I was leaving the choke open. Pull, run a second, close choke, success. Let her run about 5 minutes, all good.
> 
> I have taken names, beers for everyone who helped with these noob questions. Noreaster tomorrow? Bring it on.


I pour SeaFoam at full strength into the carb when I have something that has sat too long. Give it a minute or two and usually starts right up. I also put a very heavy concentration in the gas for the next few tanks as well. Good luck


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## Jason B (Jan 28, 2015)

So at the end of the season, run it until it dies and runs out of gas, then no worry?


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

Are you tryin' to be funny?🤨


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Chardo said:


> How do I remove the bowl?


You remove this bolt and gently twist and or rock the shiny bowl to get it free from the carb.

.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

The carb fuel inlet has barbs. The colder the ambient temperature the harder it is to get the rubber hose to expand and clear those barbs. I would still recommend draining out all the fuel and after the carb cleaning adding only fresh treated gas. You can always toss the old gas back in later if you feel thrifty, just make sure you use it all up before storing it again this coming summer.
The reason to take off the fuel line besides draining the fuel tank is to be able to spray some cleaner into that nipple and make sure it sprays out the bottom so you know the needle isn't stuck against the seat. Spraying that nipple a couple times also help clean up that needle and seat area. 
.









.
IMHO seafoam is OK but I prefer to use Marine Sta-Bil for a stabilizer and Lucas fuel injector cleaner for an occasional measured treatment to remove any gum or varnish that may be accumulating. I try to use pure gas but occasionally I end up with some ethanol gas. I've had very good luck with the Lucas. It won't cure a really bad carb but I've had it clear up some idling or running problems with a couple tank fills. It's also great for your car.  
Regular Sta-Bil is good the marine grade is just a little bit better and designed for a more moist environment.
.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Chardo said:


> Oil? What oil?
> 
> JK


Pretty sure he's referring to the engine oil. Might not be a bad idea to check the auger gear box too if there's any sign of leakage.

.


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## Dannoman (Jan 16, 2018)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> The carb fuel inlet has barbs. The colder the ambient temperature the harder it is to get the rubber hose to expand and clear those barbs. I would still recommend draining out all the fuel and after the carb cleaning adding only fresh treated gas. You can always toss the old gas back in later if you feel thrifty, just make sure you use it all up before storing it again this coming summer.
> The reason to take off the fuel line besides draining the fuel tank is to be able to spray some cleaner into that nipple and make sure it sprays out the bottom so you know the needle isn't stuck against the seat. Spraying that nipple a couple times also help clean up that needle and seat area.
> .
> View attachment 171769
> ...


How much Lucas do you use for a 10HP blower? Does it really help un-gum the carb? And how much and how often for a car? And how? Straight in the tank? Also, would Sea Foam be good (or bad) to add to the gas for a car?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

In my personal and professional opinion and real word use I've had it cure some running issues saving me from pulling a carb. I use it with most loads of gas as I have some machines sitting out a season here and there. I add it to my automobiles once a year as a cleaner preventative.
I'm a firm believer it's a better product than Seafoam as a cleaner. BUT Seafoam is good too.
You need to figure out what size tank you have on your blower. They aren't all the same size. Same with a car. You'd need to figure out how big the tank to know if that little bottle in the photo is enough. I usually buy it in a quart size as it's cheaper that way and I add it at the gas station just before filling up. That skinny 5.25 oz bottle is good up to 25 gallons.
For Lucas
For half gallon just shy of a teaspoon full
For one gallon 0.3 fluid oz
For five gallon 1.5 oz
For Stabil
.4 oz per gallon
2 oz per five gallons
You can also google them. When I stress measured amount it's because it doesn't take that much so it's a waste to just "dump some in". Like laundry detergent, after a certain point it doesn't do any good adding more. 


.


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## Dannoman (Jan 16, 2018)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> In my personal and professional opinion and real word use I've had it cure some running issues saving me from pulling a carb. I use it with most loads of gas as I have some machines sitting out a season here and there. I add it to my automobiles once a year as a cleaner preventative.
> I'm a firm believer it's a better product than Seafoam as a cleaner. BUT Seafoam is good too.
> You need to figure out what size tank you have on your blower. They aren't all the same size. Same with a car. You'd need to figure out how big the tank to know if that little bottle in the photo is enough. I usually buy it in a quart size as it's cheaper that way and I add it at the gas station just before filling up. That skinny 5.25 oz bottle is good up to 25 gallons.
> For Lucas
> ...



Cheers Froggy!


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