# I want to re-power my 73 10,000 Series Ariens



## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

I have a 73 7HP ariens. It runs well, however it would be nice to have an engine with a stator on it for a light. I know the 8HP model that was made in 73/74 had this, however they were not all fitted with the stator. I have been unable to find a 8HP motor anyways. I haven't been trying really hard, but also have looked a little over the last couple years. 

Is there a newer (just newer than the 10,000 series) tecumseh engine that would be pretty close to a drop in replacement that would have a stator? It can be more than 8HP as well.

Thanks for any input!


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Most Tecumsehs with a stator are 8hp and larger. You have to use the "Other" set of mounting Holes that move the engine back a couple inches. Just did that on a 73-4 yesterday using a 9hp I pulled from a craftsman. Post Your Location, and maybe a member can help you out. Good Luck, those are nice Machines...BTW, Just for the record, I hate soccer.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> Most Tecumsehs with a stator are 8hp and larger. You have to use the "Other" set of mounting Holes that move the engine back a couple inches. Just did that on a 73-4 yesterday using a 9hp I pulled from a craftsman. Post Your Location, and maybe a member can help you out. Good Luck, those are nice Machines...BTW, Just for the record, I hate soccer.


HAha. THanks! I'm assuming, to make things easier, I would want to get a Tecumseh engine. Anything in particular I should be looking for on these other than the HP and stator feature I'm looking for?


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

You'll need one with the same size crank, 3/4" so you can use the same pulley and belt. You might have to modify the air box to get clearance for the chute crank.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

That's no big deal. I appreciate the help! I am definitely capable to a pretty complicated "swap", but don't really want to take on anything too extensive as my time is a bit limited these days.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Another thing to consider is a Predator engine from Harbor Freight for $99....3/4 shaft, bolt holes and crank height the same. No stator, but get a battery powered light and you're in business.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

cranman said:


> Another thing to consider is a Predator engine from Harbor Freight for $99....3/4 shaft, bolt holes and crank height the same. No stator, but get a battery powered light and you're in business.



Cran, Agreed with the Predator being a good option, but You forgot to mention Chute Crank Mods Needed for that swap.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Agreed Jack....I've done so many I don't even sweat it......


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> Cran, Agreed with the Predator being a good option, but You forgot to mention Chute Crank Mods Needed for that swap.


What is the upper end for HP Rating on a Tecumseh before I'd run in to other issues w a swap due to size of the engine or shaft size?


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## Landngroove (Oct 12, 2015)

My 1973 Ariens had an 8HP Tec on it that I repowered with a Predator 212. The crank for the chute had the 2 u joints, not the 1 piece rod found on the 7HP models. All I had to do for clearance was to bend ever so slightly the standoff for the chute rod for clearance. Works fine.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

I think I want to stay w another Tecumseh motor.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Here's a Typical Crank mod the way I do it on a Predator Swap. When Done with the Joints "In Phase", it cranks like Butter.


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## kapparecall (Aug 30, 2019)

You need the one having the same crank size so that you can use the same belt and pulley.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

kapparecall said:


> You need the one having the same crank size so that you can use the same belt and pulley.





Did you happen to read post #4 in this thread?


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I think you could fit most any Tecumseh on it....they have only two bolt patterns and your machine is drilled for both....not difficult finding a 1 inch pulley for the bigger machines...Tractor Supply has a good selection I've used.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

It appears getting a new pulley won't be an issue. I see tecumseh made the "winter" engine up to 13hp. Any reason to NOT to throw a 13hp motor on this thing?


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

live4soccer7 said:


> It appears getting a new pulley won't be an issue. I see tecumseh made the "winter" engine up to 13hp. Any reason to NOT to throw a 13hp motor on this thing?


 13 is Overkill. 8-10 w/impeller seal is Plenty


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

I guess it will come down to whatever I can find a good deal on.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I have a 24 inch Ariens with a 12 hp Tecumseh...tall chute, impeller kit and 3.5 inch drive pulley on the impeller. Overkill....but it throws to the moon and nothing slows it down. A 10 hp Tecumseh is a nice swap for that machine.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

cranman said:


> I have a 24 inch Ariens with a 12 hp Tecumseh...tall chute, impeller kit and 3.5 inch drive pulley on the impeller. Overkill....but it throws to the moon and nothing slows it down. A 10 hp Tecumseh is a nice swap for that machine.


Haha. Awesome. I'll probably look for something 10 or more HP. If I'm going to put the work in, I'd like it to be completely unstoppable for a 24" width blower. It might be a little more work than I originally was thinking, but I'm feeling a bit inspired now.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

Post Your Location. Someone might have an engine local to you


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> Post Your Location. Someone might have an engine local to you


I'm near Spokane, WA


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## Rooskie (Feb 12, 2015)

cranman said:


> Another thing to consider is a Predator engine from Harbor Freight for $99....3/4 shaft, bolt holes and crank height the same. No stator, but get a battery powered light and you're in business.


This is by far the best idea offered here.
There are many bright lights you can mount on your headband and there are numerous folks here who do exactly that. Saves a lot of time,money and effort.As many times as I've blown in the dark, a headlight is a wasted gizmo, anyway.
Just something else to break.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

live4soccer7 said:


> I'm near Spokane, WA



Too bad You're Not Local I have an 11hp OHV tec available


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

https://spokane.craigslist.org/tls/d/hayden-tecumseh-9hp-snow-blower-engine/6972799508.html


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> https://spokane.craigslist.org/tls/d/hayden-tecumseh-9hp-snow-blower-engine/6972799508.html


I've messaged/emailed that guy. I'm not sure why he has email only for contact information.

What would you guys recommend, an overhead valve style or not? I'm not really sure what the advantage or drawbacks would be.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

for a snowblower I don't think it makes a difference on a Tecumseh....


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

cranman said:


> for a snowblower I don't think it makes a difference on a Tecumseh....


What about other applications? The 10,000 series has all sorts of attachments. I've had mine for about 3 years now. Great machine so far. I'll use it as is this year if I don't find the engine I'm looking for.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

The original early Ariens with the Trac Team attachments had ratcheting wheels that gave the tractor traction, but allowed it to disengage one wheel when turning much like a Detroit Locker rear end in a race car. They came with 5-7 hp engines which were plenty for the job. If you are swapping a bigger Tecumseh on, it doesn't matter what the hp or valve type is....you got more then you need either way.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

cranman said:


> The original early Ariens with the Trac Team attachments had ratcheting wheels that gave the tractor traction, but allowed it to disengage one wheel when turning much like a Detroit Locker rear end in a race car. They came with 5-7 hp engines which were plenty for the job. If you are swapping a bigger Tecumseh on, it doesn't matter what the hp or valve type is....you got more then you need either way.


Those Discontinued Friction Springs for the Ratcheting Wheels are Hard to Find Nowadays,


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Jackmels said:


> Those Discontinued Friction Springs for the Ratcheting Wheels are Hard to Find Nowadays,


I've got a "donor" 10,000 series, luckily. I was contemplating getting it running and selling it, but now I'm thinking I'll keep it for parts.

In the documentation for the 10,000 series, there are mentions of an 8HP version in 73' and 74', but I haven't come across one locally. I have two 7HP models.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Well, I found an OHSK130 on a blower for $75. Granted, I had to drive quite a ways for it. The swap is just about done (picked it up this morning and started working on it around 2-3pm). 

So far it has been very easy, with the mounting of it causing the most head scratching because I didn't want to disassemble everything that's under where the engine sits to have access to the bolt holes. I ended up welding "studs" to the Ariens rear mounting holes and then drilling out the holes in the 13HP TEC because they were threaded. I also chamfered the bottom of the holes with a step bit so they would sit over the welds and help with lining up the engine on the studs when placing the engine. I was able to weld the studs from both sides, so I don't think they will go anywhere. There is a chance for stress cracking from the constant vibration, but I'll address that when/if the time comes. If that happens, I will get a a piece of 1/4" flat bar or similar and make that the plate the studs are attached to and weld that to the Ariens.

The chute crank was pretty easy actually. Is all I had to do was move the mounting point of it about an inch or two toward the outside of the handle bars and then cut a small part of the intake shroud. Super easy.

The pulley on the crank was also super easy. The crank, I think, is 1" where the old 7hp is 3/4" (just a guess w/o measuring). The 13hp TEC had a double pulley setup. I just needed the inner pulley, so I pressed off the outer pulley. It is brazed on or something. I did a little grinding to help remove some of it. Once I did that it reluctantly came off. I simply put the pulley "sleeve" back on the crank and that was that.

Now, I just need to get a belt and it is done. That is aside from fabbing up a shield for the front pulley/crank spot.

I just removed the heat shield on the exhaust. I'm not sure that it would have been in the way, but it definitely isn't now.

Edit: I weighed the engines. The 7HP TEC was right at 50lbs and the 13HP TEC was about 65lbs. They each had oil and a little gas, so I feel like they are accurate comparisons.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

Got a little carried away today and dismantled every bolted on the engine for a cleaning and then sand blasted the shrouds for some primer and orange paint. It should turn out alright. I'll need to get a new gas can, probably a spark plug while I'm at it, maybe a gasket kit, muffler, and carb rebuild kit.


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## WalkThisWhey (Feb 15, 2017)

Jealous you found an OHSK130! There was one near me that I wanted, but in the end I didn't go for it. My HMSK100 was a direct replacement for my 10000 series needing only a pulley sleeve.


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

WalkThisWhey said:


> Jealous you found an OHSK130! There was one near me that I wanted, but in the end I didn't go for it. My HMSK100 was a direct replacement for my 10000 series needing only a pulley sleeve.


This one hasn't been too bad. I'm on my third day of working on it. I had it all functional at the end of the first day with the exception of a belt. I took the engine off the second day and tore off all the shielding etc... and cleaned up the engine, sandblasted and painted a bunch of stuff. I wanted it to be orange like the ariens. Today I plan to head to the hardware store and grab a belt. I'm sure I'll probably have to try at least a couple before I find the exact size that will work best. I'll get the engine back together today and mounted up, hopefully with a belt. haha


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Any Tecumseh more then 7 hp will really make a 10000 series sing. I prefer the 73/74 models as I like the controls better. I've got a 73 with a 212 hp Predator, and a 74 with a 208cc Chondra. A 13 hp will be a beast. Only problem with the 10000 series high horsepower is with the one pulley, you can't up the impeller speed without upping the ground speed. Kind of a waste of torque. A Predator on the 10000 series will rev more then the stock engine and give a huge boost in performance without needing a pulley change. The Tecumseh OHV 13 won't rev as high so the impeller doesn't get the benefit of the extra hp. I would save that 13 for a twin pulley 924 series 24 inch and boost the impeller drive pulley to 3.5 inches...it will scare you....


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

The 13HP maxes at 3600 rmps. I can't recall what the stock was, either 3400 or 3600.

Found it in the manual. The original engines are 3600RPMs as well.


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## mikeythemars (Jan 29, 2019)

*Confirming specifics on Predator compatibility*



cranman said:


> Another thing to consider is a Predator engine from Harbor Freight for $99....3/4 shaft, bolt holes and crank height the same. No stator, but get a battery powered light and you're in business.


I have a 1973 model 910008 Ariens with it's original 7Hp Tecumseh model H70-130158A motor, that after 46 years of service is on it's last legs. I am considering the Predator as a replacement, particularly after seeing videos off road go karts employing it, where that motor appears to be one _really_ tenacious brute.

If I am reading your post correctly, the bolt holes on the Predator should match the ones on my Tecumseh. The distances between those holes (bolt center to center) are three and three sixteenths inches on the side axis and approximately seven inches on the longer front and rear axis (it's difficult to get a precise measure of those with the engine attached). The height of the middle of the crank on the Tecumseh appears to be a little bit more than four inches. 

Do these dimensions sound right in terms of what you mentioned about the Predator?


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## live4soccer7 (Sep 29, 2016)

You'd probably be better off starting a new thread or even doing a search as I think a lot of people do this. The height of the pulley doesn't really matter much unless you're **** bent on keeping the shroud. Just get a new belt.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

The Predator is a direct bolt on for the 7 hp Tec...same bolt pattern and crank height. Sometimes you may have to move the crank linkage for the chute, but no big deal. My tecnique is to grind off the studs, center punch the stud and drill them to accept a 5/16 coarse tap..and then bolt the engine down from above..the studs are welded to the tractor and have a thick base that gives plenty of meat for the threads...the pulley is a direct swap, and the shield fits perfectly.


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## Ariensboy (Apr 2, 2019)

I put a Predator 212 on a 1969 10,000 this summer. I did it like cranman said, drill and tap. Thanks cranman! I have a different chute mod than yours, I think? I've attached picture of mine just in case. It has lots of power, as it went thru 8+ inches no problem!


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## mikeythemars (Jan 29, 2019)

cranman said:


> Another thing to consider is a Predator engine from Harbor Freight for $99....3/4 shaft, bolt holes and crank height the same. No stator, but get a battery powered light and you're in business.


The Predator is no longer being shown at a $99 dollar price point on the Harbor Freight website, instead being listed at $125. And every Harbor Freight discount coupon I have found online excludes it being applicable for any Predator product.


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## toromike (Aug 20, 2018)

mikeythemars said:


> The Predator is no longer being shown at a $99 dollar price point on the Harbor Freight website, instead being listed at $125. And every Harbor Freight discount coupon I have found online excludes it being applicable for any Predator product.


From their mailed flier, this just worked for $99.99, 11409227, good to 11/30/19


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

My mail coupon just had the Predator 212cc for 99.00 or 97.00 ……

BTW, here is my chute lever mod on a B&S, same path.:


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

Unless the Tecumseh is an odd 2 shaft engine the Predator 212cc is an easy to do drop in replacement good for bucket sizes of up to 26 inches. I have an old Gilson made Montgomery Ward 8/26 and the original Briggs and Stratton 8hp was coughing up blue smoke every once and a while and would even leak oil all over my new paint job. I replaced the 8hp engine with the 212cc Predator and it is every bit as capable as the old flathead Briggs was and is a much better running engine and burns less fuel. If you have a 10hp or larger engine to replace Harbor Freight has 301cc and the 420cc Predator engines but they are much more costly at double to nearly triple the price of the great price of $99.99 212cc.


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## mikeythemars (Jan 29, 2019)

cranman said:


> The Predator is a direct bolt on for the 7 hp Tec...same bolt pattern and crank height. Sometimes you may have to move the crank linkage for the chute, but no big deal. My tecnique is to grind off the studs, center punch the stud and drill them to accept a 5/16 coarse tap..and then bolt the engine down from above..the studs are welded to the tractor and have a thick base that gives plenty of meat for the threads...the pulley is a direct swap, and the shield fits perfectly.


Thanks cranman, I have seen images of the chute crank rod modifications some other people have made to accomodate the Predator. The existing one on my Ariens (which has one universal joint) runs just below the heater box on the aged Tecumseh engine. I think I will be able to easily reorient that bar if necessary by attaching a support to bottom of the stamped crosspiece attached to the handlebars, where I can set the rod to a level where it doesn't encounter the engine

Lastly, it looks like the main pulley is attached to the tecumseh shaft by hex nut fasteners. Is that correct?


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