# Could Really Use Some Help



## Bdouble (Feb 1, 2015)

I just recently bought a Craftsman 24" snow thrower, model #88173. Its never been used as I cannot get the thing to start since I got it home. Using the electric start it sounds like it wants to, the engine just will not "ignite". I tried the recoil and even less luck. I have filled it with the correct type of oil and gas. Key is in. Throttle is moved to fast (rabbit symbol) and I have it in the choke position. Is there something I am missing? 

I picked it up from Sears and came in a large box. The store clerk loaded it in my truck and I remember when I got home and pulled it out there was what appeared to be oil that had spilled. Assume it comes with some oil mix in there for shipping? Is it possible that oil got in to some other areas of the engine and is causing a problem? When i primed the engine the first time, oil squirted out below. That doesnt happen anymore but wasnt sure if that was normal or is possibly the cause.

Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. Trying to avoid having to lug it in to a Sears Repair store if it is something i can address at home.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

When you say "oil" came out when you primed it, are you sure it was oil and not gas. You have a 4 stroke engine, the gas and oil are not mixed together. Should be straight gas in your tank. And if its brand new, I would not even mess with it and take it straight back to Sears and start over.


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## Bdouble (Feb 1, 2015)

Ray - first off, thanks so much for responding. The unit comes shipped with oil. I could tell it was oil and it also says that on page 14 of the manual. Not sure why but figured it was for shipping purposes. I cannot imagine they could ship loaded with gas. You are correct that the oil and gas are separate, and I have filled both of those up to the appropriate levels once assembled out of the box. 
I absolutely plan to take to a Sears repair store but I need to rent a truck and lug the thing over there (its really heavy). Before I did that I just wanted to see if there was something obvious I was missing.


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## tinter (Apr 20, 2014)

Is your spark plug fowled with oil? Sounds like it isn't getting spark.


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## rosco61 (Dec 8, 2014)

Look for your fuel shut off valve. Make sure its open. Do you have a primer bulb?


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

rosco61 said:


> Look for your fuel shut off valve. Make sure its open.


That's what I'm thinking.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Agree with the above as well good points made, check the plug to see if it was fouled with oil, and that the gas valve is on. Beyond that, all you should have to do it fill it with gas, make sure oil level is right and it should fire right up for you. Maybe it flooded out first time you tried to start it? Did you get a heavy gas odor? Let it sit for a while and clear out, then try again maybe?. Stinks about bringing it back, but that may be where this is headed.


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

In doing some more research, I found this about the oil in your box.

_Oil in the shipping box – Most two stage snow blowers come with the oil already in the engine. If you get a new one and there is an oil stain inside the box, the snow blower is not broke. Someone has left the snow blower tipped on it’s side or upside down. The oil has leaked out of the fill tube. Check the oil before you start your new engine and add 5W30 oil to the fill mark if it needs it. There have been no other engine oil leaks reported._

So I guess I would not be to worried about that, but I would be sure to check the oil level every time before starting just to be safe. 

By the way,,,,,,,,, welcome to the forum!


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## Bdouble (Feb 1, 2015)

I thought about the spark plug. I pulled the boot off but didnt mess with the plug itself. Should I pull the plug out and inspect it? I assume I need a special tool for that?
I did prime the engine. And this non-starting has been over a couple weeks. I try it and nothing. Come back in a couple days try again. Only difference is today we are getting pounded by snow and could really use it. What does the fuel shut off valve look like? I dont see that in the manual anywhere?


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

*Read your owner's manual on starting procedure.* Have you double checked for spark? As was mentioned above, wet, fouled plug? Too much prime? If all else fails let it sit over night with the plug out and try it again the next day. There is also the remote possibility of cylinder "washdown". Too much raw gas has been dumped in it and has washed all the oil from th cylinder walls and now it doesn't have enough compressikn to start.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

hello bdoublei, welcome to *SBF!! *t might be a pain to take it back but don't play around with it after all its new. let sears get it running or refund your money. oh check your owners manual to see if your machine does have a fuel shut off valve


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## Bdouble (Feb 1, 2015)

liftoff1967 - thanks for having me in the forum! cant believe how helpful everyone has been so quick and so early. 
i wouldnt have been too concerned with the oil part of things except for upon my initial prime (before I filled it with gas), when I hit the primer it appeared as though oil squirted out of the bottom. but maybe thats not a big deal?


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## Bdouble (Feb 1, 2015)

micah68kj - I have read the owners manual. Probably 50 times. Trust me, this is killing me.


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## Mrfedex40 (Jan 19, 2015)

Fuel shut off if equipped should be clearly marked and either under fuel tank or on fuel line somewhere. . Have yo contacted sears at all? Maybe they could have one o there service guys come out and look at it might be cheaper and easier than renting a truck.. this is where buying from a independent dealer sometimes is a better option just food for thought on next equipment purchase has its advantages. ...


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## Mrfedex40 (Jan 19, 2015)

Oh if you wanted to attempt a spark plug you would need a deep well socket and an extension and ratchet to get old one out ...


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## Bdouble (Feb 1, 2015)

I have numerous calls into Sears. Everything runs through a call center. Just the most frustrating process. Next time i will absolutely be going through an independent dealer.


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

Bdouble said:


> micah68kj - I have read the owners manual.


I also looked at your owners manual on line, all 38 pages. It does not appear you have a fuel valve shut off (rather odd to me)

When you put the spark plug boot on, did you hear a "click" insuring the plug wire engaged with the pug?

Are you sure the key is pushed in "all the way"? The purpose of that plastic key is to keep the 2 little spring electrodes apart from each other. If they are touching, each other, the motor will not start. So, I would recommend pulling that little key, then pushing it back in "all the way" you should feel a little resistance when pushing, as the key is pushing apart the 2 spring clip things. 

If you have oil coming out of the primer bulb area, I would say that is an issue. But for now, lets see if you can get this thing started first.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

I just was reading your manual, looks like you do not have a fuel shut off valve so disregard that stuff I guess. If you have the key in, choke on like you said, prime 3 times, it should fire. If it's been a couple of weeks, unfortunately I hate to say you prob should have taken it back a few weeks ago. I would pull the plug, a simple deep socket will do, and check that to see if the electrode is dirty. After that I wouldn't to too much because Sears may give you trouble trying to return blower you've been tampering with. It's brand new, you shouldn't be having trouble like this.
EDIT: sorry for the dupe info, I started this post a while ago and just realized I never hit "submit"


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## Bdouble (Feb 1, 2015)

I pulled the spark plug and am going to let it sit a while and air out. i also drained the oil out. i shoveled the first 8 inches we got this morning but hoping i can have her running in time for the next wave coming at 2 pm.


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## time2time (Jan 8, 2015)

*Unfortunately, more common than it should be*



liftoff1967 said:


> It does not appear you have a fuel valve shut off (rather odd to me)


I have seen a couple of items that have a switch to kill the ignition, but no fuel cutoff to run the carb dry (my preference for long term storage). I wish it was a standard feature, but I guess some people don't want to turn something off and wait a minute or two for the carb to run out any remaining fuel.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Make sure none of the levers are engaged, make sure the throttle is on full, make sure the safety key is in the engine and if there is a key on the dash make sure that is on.

Do you have a neighbor or friend that can come over and give you a quick overview that might be more mechanically knowledgeable about things like this?


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

Bdouble said:


> I thought about the spark plug. I pulled the boot off but didnt mess with the plug itself. Should I pull the plug out and inspect it? I assume I need a special tool for that?
> I did prime the engine. And this non-starting has been over a couple weeks. I try it and nothing. Come back in a couple days try again. Only difference is today we are getting pounded by snow and could really use it. What does the fuel shut off valve look like? I dont see that in the manual anywhere?


If you have not turned on the fuel and you can't find the control that's most likely the problem it will have a little gas symbol and just slide back-and-forth like the choke.


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## Ray 1962 10ML60 (Oct 14, 2011)

Pathfinder13 said:


> If you have not turned on the fuel and you can't find the control that's most likely the problem it will have a little gas symbol and just slide back-and-forth like the choke.


His model does not have a fuel on/off valve.


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