# HS928 drive cable spring



## brauhaus (Dec 11, 2017)

Hi,

I'm new to the forum. I have a HS928K1WAS SN: SAVJ-5004503.

About a month ago I needed to move my snowblower from it's storage location and it would not drive in forward or reverse. I discovered that the HS transmission oil seal had backed out on the shaft. I tried to get in at the dealer but there was a 2 month backup. 

So after researching the issue, I ordered new seals and the shop manual and pulled the transmission, replaced the seals, and followed the bleeding procedure.

After I was done, I started it up and pushed the drive lever down and it stayed down. I found that the
spring ( 24468-736-A01 - PRI; SPRING, TENSIONER ROLLER) was only attached to the cable and not the tensioner. The shop manual has dotted lines for all the springs but this one. So I took a guess and connected it. 

It ran fine for several minutes but then I found that when I released the drive level it still was moving.
I could also smell the belt, so I shut it down. The next day, it repeated, ran fine for a couple of minutes then would continue to move after it ran for a few minutes. I'm going to pull it apart again this weekend and see what I screwed up. I also removed the belt guards, so I'm going to check the clearance on those.

Does anyone have a picture of where the bottom of this spring attaches to the tensioner assembly ?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

did you take the belt cover off to see the operation when you pulled the drive lever down? it sounds like the belt is running all the time even when the drive handle is up.

i have the shop manual in front of me but the schematic is kind of confusing. obviously the bottom of spring is in the wrong hole.

is there another machine you can compare yours with? I believe the 828 is the same as the the 928 when it comes to this setup. i would look for a higher hole so there won't be so much tension and look at operation with motor off.

i wouldn't run it again unless you know you have it right , either by comparing it with another machine or checking operation with motor off and checking clearances. you may cause more damage with a super tight belt.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

any update?

can you post a couple pics?


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## brauhaus (Dec 11, 2017)

I'm going to pull it apart this weekend. I don't have another blower to compare it to.
I'll send an update when find out what's wrong. I thing the tensioner isn't fully coming off the
belt, and I'm hoping it's just the spring placement.

Thanks


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

brauhaus said:


> ...Does anyone have a picture of where the bottom of this spring attaches to the tensioner assembly ?


I don't have a picture, but I can scan the page of the shop manual that covers the tensioners and email it to you (PM with your email address, if this will help you).

It's not the clearest of pages, but it may do. 

The page I would scan is for the HS828, but the shop manual cover says for the HS624, HS724, HS828, HS928, HS1132.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Obviously there must be more than one hole in the tensioner assembly to attach it so your second guess will be better. ALSO, isn't the cable that it attaches to adjustable for length? Maybe if you can't figure it out you can play with that.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

From my memory, and looking at my shop manual, both the tensioner spring (the one you list) and the return spring share the same hole on the tensioner arm. 

It goes: 1. Cable to tensioner spring 2.Bottom of tensioner spring to tensioner arm/roller 3. Top of return spring to tensioner arm/roller (same hole, there's only one on the arm) 4. Bottom of return spring to tensioner spring stay (hole that leans towards the engine, not towards the auger.

If that is wrong when you get it all figured out, I'll edit this post.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

if you still need a picture , let me know. I have to take a bucket off my 928 to check bearing and other stuff and can post them. was gonna wait awhile but if a picture will help for comparison I'll do it sooner.


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## brauhaus (Dec 11, 2017)

Here's the update.. I had some things come up that prevented me from getting to the work.. Started working on it xmas 
eve at 6pm and we were getting several inches on xmas morning...

I removed the auger bucket and checked everything out. jrom was correct with the spring placement.. Thanks jrom.
But the spring was in the proper place.. Everything looked good.. Then I noticed I had almost no clearance on the 
bottom belt guard (under the transmission pulley) so I loosened that gave it a gap and put everything back together.
I noticed that the drive belt was showing ware but used the original since nothing was open.

We got 6" on xmas morning and I hit the driveway. Everything was fine for 3 minutes then the symptom came back.
Release the drive handle and it keeps moving... I had no choice but to finish the driveway, but I kept it moving.

I picked up a new belt at the dealer on the 26th and tore it all down AGAIN today...
I looked like the drive pulley on the tensioner wasn't coming completely off the belt. I took the tensioner assembly out and found that the the arm was being held up by a little rubber stopper. see page 16-12 on the shop manual (61V4100E2)
It is flat on top and has a post that pushes into the tensioner arm bracket. But it also has a "C" at the end that wraps around 
the metal. Mine was all on top of the arm bracket which prevented the pulley from returning all the way.. I wrapped the "C"
part around the end of the arm bracket,

Put it all back together.. Then I ran it for 20 minutes up and down the driveway. Operation was normal.. 

So I'm hoping I fixed it. Low of single digits the rest of the week but no snow until next weekend. I have my fingers
crossed. Thanks to all who responded.

The answer to my original question , as pointed out by jrom, the bottom of the tensioner roller spring goes into the same
hole as the top of the tensioner roller spring return spring on the tensioner roller arm (page 16-12 of the shop manual),

The manual needs an update to put a line from the bottom of the tensioner roller spring to the hole on the roller arm.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

brauhaus said:


> Here's the update.. I had some things come up that prevented me from getting to the work.. Started working on it xmas
> eve at 6pm and we were getting several inches on xmas morning...
> 
> I removed the auger bucket and checked everything out. jrom was correct with the spring placement.. Thanks jrom.
> ...



wow , thanks for the update. for future reference , the bucket does not need to come off if you need to replace just the drive belt. you can take the belt keeper off from bottom and take belt off from top, etc.

i understand why you took the bucket off every time , though, to work on the tensioners and springs etc. it is way easier that way. 

hope you have it fixed now.


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## Wiz (Dec 23, 2017)

brauhaus said:


> Here's the update.. --snip--
> 
> I picked up a new belt at the dealer on the 26th and tore it all down AGAIN today...
> I looked like the drive pulley on the tensioner wasn't coming completely off the belt. I took the tensioner assembly out and found that the the arm was being held up by a little rubber stopper. see page 16-12 on the shop manual (61V4100E2)
> ...


Hi brauhaus. I've got a similar machine, HS928WA SZAS, and a similar problem. My drive spring was also detached and the drive belt was chewed up. The only way I could see to get the tensioner off would be to turn the machine upside down or have it on a lift to get to the cotter pin. Is that what you did? I tried removing the nuts on the bolts for the bracket but couldn't get it to come off. I'm headed back to the garage to see if I can get mine back together.


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## brauhaus (Dec 11, 2017)

I took the auger bucket assembly off first. Then I loosened, but did not remove, a couple of the bolts along
the side panel. I could then put a screwdriver in to create enough of a gap to pull the tensioner off (removing the 2 nuts for the tensioner assemble first)...


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