# Engine Pop



## EnjoyLife (May 26, 2015)

Hi. I just changed the oil on my used snow blower that I purchased. The old oil was really bad and when I put in the new oil, the dipstick still looked dirty!

When I started the engine after filling it up with fresh gas with seafoam and startron, the engine wasn't clean. Seemed to have a little bit of a knock and an occasional pop.

Is this something I should be worried about?

Also, the impeller keeps spinning a little even though the handle isn't pressed. I don't know if this is normal. The model is a Snapper. Very old model. (I'll get the exact later.)


----------



## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

I can't really help with your engine issues, but the impeller should be just an adjustment of the control cable. Here's a link to a Donyboy73 video on YouTube that explains how to adjust the control cables. Hope it helps.


----------



## threeputtpar (Jan 16, 2014)

Is the pop coming from the exhaust/muffler? That's usually an indication of an out of adjustment carb or a valve lash clearance issue. Did it do this prior to the oil change? Did you overfill by any chance? An old Snapper, so I'm assuming a Tecumseh L-head engine.

The impeller that won't stop after handle release is probably just a cable that needs adjusting or the PO put on a belt that is slightly too small. Both are easy fixes.


----------



## EnjoyLife (May 26, 2015)

The pop does seem to be coming from the exhaust. Got me a little scared so I turned it off. I'll turn it on later and check. I think my neighbor got a little annoyed because her 2 dogs kept yappering the entire time it was running (15 minutes).

It did this after I filled with oil. I changed the oil and the old oil was completely black. When I filled it with new oil, the dipstick was still a little black. I'm thinking I should change the oil again. It was a Tecumseh engine.

I'll check the cable and let you guys know if this fixes it. Thanks guys!



threeputtpar said:


> Is the pop coming from the exhaust/muffler? That's usually an indication of an out of adjustment carb or a valve lash clearance issue. Did it do this prior to the oil change? Did you overfill by any chance? An old Snapper, so I'm assuming a Tecumseh L-head engine.
> 
> The impeller that won't stop after handle release is probably just a cable that needs adjusting or the PO put on a belt that is slightly too small. Both are easy fixes.


----------



## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Could be the cable adjust, or the spring has gone missing for the brake. If you pull the belt cover and look down inside the belt/pulley area, you should see an arm with a pad on it that rides against the auger "big' pulley closest to the auger housing, low in the opening. Some brakes are up high on the pulley, like Deere. Most are way down in the dark spots of the belt area. They usually always correspond with the idler pulley/bracket that engages the auger belt and have a spring hooked to them. If it's a real old girl and hasn't been run in awhile, the belt can be deformed or the pulleys are rusted from sitting for time and slightly engage the engine sheave causing impeller movement. The idea is once the handle is released the belt should be flexible enough to drop away from the pulley or a spring loaded arm will contact the big pulley and essentially brake it. Gotta have pictures, man


----------



## Dave C (Jan 26, 2015)

Popping could be a lean mixture (clogged carb), a timing issue (points adjustment), or the valve not seating. Take a compression measurement if you can.


----------



## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

check the length of the valve stems they might have expanded from cooling and heating cycles over the years


----------



## EnjoyLife (May 26, 2015)

*Auger Movement*

I haven't figured out why the auger keeps moving even after I release the auger handle. I've attached some pictures. Hopefully, somebody can help.

Thanks!




jtclays said:


> Could be the cable adjust, or the spring has gone missing for the brake. If you pull the belt cover and look down inside the belt/pulley area, you should see an arm with a pad on it that rides against the auger "big' pulley closest to the auger housing, low in the opening. Some brakes are up high on the pulley, like Deere. Most are way down in the dark spots of the belt area. They usually always correspond with the idler pulley/bracket that engages the auger belt and have a spring hooked to them. If it's a real old girl and hasn't been run in awhile, the belt can be deformed or the pulleys are rusted from sitting for time and slightly engage the engine sheave causing impeller movement. The idea is once the handle is released the belt should be flexible enough to drop away from the pulley or a spring loaded arm will contact the big pulley and essentially brake it. Gotta have pictures, man


----------



## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Brake is probably hidden down in the dark area of the belts. You have some 
rust on the drive sheaves that could cause the belts to drag, assuming a 5.5hp Tecumseh? I see the secondary cam drive for traction. Belts look a little shady, but not that bad really. Is it a Toro, TroyB or Craftsman?


----------

