# 1971 Ariens problem getting it to start



## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

I have a 1971 Ariens that I have used a couple times with no issues. Last week I tried to start it after a snow storm and it just wouldn't turn over. When pulling the pull starter sometimes the engine would try to turn over but then for some reason it would pull back on the starter rope which was still in my hand and I couldn't let go quick enough causing the engine to not turn over. Thinking it was an issue with the pull starter I took an identical pull starter off another Ariens I have and had the same issue. A couple times I noticed a flash and smoke coming from the carbutator. Here are the steps I followed to try to start it (the steps printed on the engine). Put the choke to full. Hold down black button while slowly pulling starter once. Try to start it with black button released. I seems to want to turn over after that but like I said it pulls back on the starter rope and fails to turn over. I also noticed it seems like it is closer to turning over at half choke position. The last couple times I got it to start and used it I had to very quickly flip the choke lever off or it would die right away. It is snowing right now and were supposed to have a lot of snow tomorrow so I would appreciate some troubleshooting steps I can try tomorrow. I have very little experience with these types of machines but I'm mechanically inclined and can follow directions. Any advice is greatly appreciated. If you need more details to better advise me let me know.


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## Dannoman (Jan 16, 2018)

Take the spark plug out and try shooting some quick start (ether) into the spark plug hole. Rescrew the spark plug in and connect the wire and give it a few pulls. Also, you might have residue in the carburetor. Try to unscrew the bolt at the bottom of the carb and clean out the carb as much as you can. Shoot some carb cleaner in every orifice you can get to. Use a thin wire to clean out the little orifice in the main jet. Try that first. If your gas gone bad and has water in it you should drain the entire system and get some fresh gas.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

1st off, what 1971 model number tractor and attachment do you own? Is it a 910954 or 910962 tractor with a 910995 attachment maybe (7HP 24"), or a 922002 with a 922003 attachment (4HP 20")?

My 71 at the moment is running fantastic. I've noticed if the temperature is above roughly 20 degrees, after the pre-start "priming" like you're doing, I need very little choke at all. Like you say, if I don't shut the choke off pretty quickly once it fires, it'll die.

Questions - do you...

a) have a fuel shutoff at the gas tank and is it open? Seems like common sense, yet I've forgotten it.
b) if you have a shutoff, do you actually shut off fuel after use or are you leaving it open? Hint: I close it always after use.
c) plenty of fuel in the tank, correct?
d) lastly (for a 10,000 series) make sure you are in neutral gear (you can physically move the machine around without having to pull on the clutch handle at the handlebars), and that you have the auger clutch handle and engine clutch both out before starting. That means on the attachment the "sno-throw clutch lever" is pointing forward (turned counter-clockwise) and the "lifting lever" is down. 

On a 1971 22,000 series, the "lifting lever" is down.

I've forgotten these before...and it will be hard to pull on the starter rope with a cold blower if forgotten - and chances are you won't get enough force on it to get it to fire up. My way of remembering the settings are "neutral, down and out" before I ever pull on the rope.


If all of these are being done correct, my hunch is you may have a stuck float bowl. The rope kickback to me...for some reason I think maybe the attachment lever is on (lever is "up") and you're pulling against the attachment too.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I had 4 lawnmowers that were kicking back, when the first did it, I thought it was the engine shear key, it wasn't, it was the fresh gas. I went to a different gas station, drained the gas, started right up, no problems.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Is it the original Tecumseh Engine (points/magneto) or a newer (Electronic) ignition?

Regardless, with our simple ignitions, there are actually 2 sparks:
-	top of the compression stroke (used for power)
-	top of the exhaust stroke (wasted)

So if it’s not popping-off (weak spark? bad fuel?) at the top of the compression stroke, you may have residual fuel that ignites when the exhaust valve is open. will a double-pop cause the recoil to yank on your arm? I suppose it’s plausible.

Conventional kickback is often a symptom of bad timing.

If someone replaced the original engine with something more modern, it's likely electronic ignition (external coil) and you may have a sheared flywheel key throwing off your valve timing.

If it's the original tecumseh engine, it could be a number of things throwing off your ignition timing including a sheared flywheel key. The magneto (behind the flywheel) may have rotated changing your spark advance…supposed to be set at 0.080” before top-dead-center (BTDC). Is the points gap out of spec…that can also advance/retard the timing. 

If it were my engine and the kickback persisted after addressing any fuel issues, I’d start with making sure she has a good spark and that the flywheel key is in good shape. Then dive into the points; clean-up the pitting and adjust the gap to spec. Just be careful removing the flywheel (no puller holes) and DO NOT loosen those magneto bolts; it will screw up your ignition timing.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

First of all I know it is a 910995 attachment with a 7hp engine. Secondly I did some reading last night about the kickback issue and some forum posts seem to suggest with this particular engine the timing could be off which would have to be caused by a bad flywheel key. I will try the other suggestions posted here first but if I need to look at the flywheel key is this difficult to get to? I have another Ariens model number 932006 with a 5hp engine that I could never get to start since I bought it. Does this engine by chance use the same key (I know the pull start is identical)? If not where can I purchase one? As far as the gas goes I ran all the old gas through the engine the first time I used the snowblower and replaced it with new higher octane ethanol free gas. I have never closed the fuel shutoff valve (Not even sure where it is located). Everything is in neutral when I attempt to start it. I read a suggestion in a forum post about how to possibly avoid kick back and that is to turn the ignition off (Not sure how to do this as this snowblower has no key unlike the other ariens I have) and pull the starter cord until resistance is felt which apparently puts the piston in a position where it is less likely to backfire then try to start it like normal. What are your thoughts on what I posted here? I appologize if it is total ignorance but the only knowledge I have about this machine is what I have read online. I will try the suggestions already posted here while I wait for a reply to this post.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

If it's the original engine, 7 hp, 910995 bucket - you probably have a 910962 tractor (I own the exact same machine, in my avatar). The tractor will have a square sticker just like what is on the 910995 - except near where the lower left handlebar attaches to the top of the frame in that corner. If that sticker is gone or faded, there will also be a stamp into the tractor frame with both the model # and serial #.

That also should mean you have a Tecumseh H70-130067 engine. The engine ID plate for that will be on the flywheel cover just above the tractor data.

If it has an original metal tank and (probably) shutoff valve, this is located under the tank where the fuel line attaches. The valve is metal with a turn knob at the bottom. If my memory is good, it'll turn clockwise to open, CCW to close (since it's upside down). You'll know it's open when the cap looks to be extending down some.

A newer version of this has a petcock valve looking shutoff...same principle as far as opening and closing. Either way, look to see what you got. I owned a 910965 (5HP version of our blower) that only had an elbow coming out of the tank with no shutoff valve, which I added an inline shutoff valve right where the hose comes off.

If you've never touched it before, and you're running it, whatever is there is obviously open.

The reason for shutting off the valve after use is fuel can still flow if the carb float/needle assembly sticks open, pouring fuel possibly into your engine and oil. What I do is when finished using the blower, I do not shut off the engine with the throttle. I close the fuel shutoff instead, allowing the engine to run all the gas out of the carb. That way very little fuel sits in the bowl when not in use nor will gas simply keep flowing down the fuel line if something with the float/needle occurs.

Otherwise, don't know what to tell ya. I simply try to "check off all simple possible causes first" in a no start situation. I had one machine just this week refuse to start, pull rope only, and yeah it was hard to pull the rope. I figured out it was getting fuel to the carb. The eventual result was a stuck closed needle and float in the carb. But to get that far...

a) did I have fuel flowing to the carb? yes
b) did I have spark? yes
c) did I have compression? yes

Since there was no other real reason for it to not run (it ran in December), it had to be the carb...and during disassembly, voila. The needle clip was turned off kilter somehow causing the float to not "float" - which meant the needle stayed seated - and therefore it was not allowing fuel into the bowl.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

Just went out and started it with few issues. I'll tell you what I did but first the tractor model number is 910008 and the engine number appears to be (though it is faded) h70 130158a. Anyways I first tried starting normally and it kicked back. Then I tried what I described in my last post which is pulling the starter slowly until I felt resistance. It then started with one pull. It backfired here and there but didn't seem to have any lack of power and it cleared the snow just fine. I then shut the engine off and it restarted after a couple pulls hot but I had to set the choke at half. I could be wrong but to me it looks like there is a timing issue which from what I have read indicates an issue with the flywheel key. If this is the case do I risk damaging the engine by running it in this condition? I want to fix this as soon as possible but I am busy until next week and there is more snow on the way. What do you guys think? Should I check the flywheel key first or could it be something else?


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

btw 910008...1972-73 7 HP tractor. Effectively the same as a 910962 for 1971. It'd be a 1973 if the engine clutch lever is on the handlebars, and if the tractor clutch lever on the right handlebar is above the handlebar, not below.

Here's a good look at those years...

https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page5.html


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

jg121793 said:


> ....It then started with one pull. It backfired here and there but didn't seem to have any lack of power and it cleared the snow just fine. I then shut the engine off and it restarted after a couple pulls hot but I had to set the choke at half. I could be wrong but to me it looks like there is a timing issue which from what I have read indicates an issue with the flywheel key. If this is the case do I risk damaging the engine by running it in this condition? I want to fix this as soon as possible but I am busy until next week and there is more snow on the way. What do you guys think? Should I check the flywheel key first or could it be something else?


I'm not familiar with that particular engine, but if there was a timing issue bad enough to damage the engine it is highly unlikely that it would run at all, let alone have enough power to clear any snow.

The easiest/cheapest fix is to try a different source of gasoline. Pour whatever you have in your car and get fresh gas from a different source and try that. Just because you bought gas last week doesn't mean that it's good gas. Sometimes even fresh gas has water in it unintentionally.

If that doesn't work I'd look at cleaning the jets in the carburetor since what you're experiencing is more likely a lean mixture rather than a timing issue.


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## Lottstodo (Feb 16, 2018)

IF you suspect bad gas and it does not want to run in a simple carb blower , I certainly would not pour it into a complicated system of todays cars.
EFI,02 sensors, Cat conv. fuel pumps in gas tanks, and computers trying to readjust everything to make it run how it is supposed to , the computer dont know you put bad gas in it. And really I wouldnt put it in an old carb car either. Not worth it!! 

New can / new gas. Take your old gas and shake it good , then pour some into a clear bottle let it set a couple days and see if you have water separation if so then freeze the gas if it is below freezing outside . pour gas through a paint strainer and if there is water it will be frozen and the strainer will remove the ice. then add a little dry gas and use it. Done this many times.

The above is only in case you don't have a big brush pile to dispose of.!!!


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

Well the snowblower wouldn't start today so I took it to a guy who works on small engines. I tried for over an hour to get it to start and he started it on the second pull but it was running rough. He adjusted the carburetor screw and the idle screw until the engine ran smoothly. He checked everything else over for me (belt, ect.) and lubricated some spots that needed it. He told me the kickback I was getting is probably because the engine was rebuilt and has more compression. I took the snowblower home and started it a few hours later and it starts much easier and so far has no kickback. The engine still backfires a bit but runs smoother than it previously did. I'm wondering if cleaning the carburetor would be worth it to make it run a little smoother. The guy who worked on it for me also recommended using stabill 360 in my gas. We also noticed the fuel shutoff valve on the gas tank is dripping a bit. Is there an easy way to fix this?


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

If you have a steel tank with a metal valve, they make replacement valves for them still. I got one at my Ariens dealer for something like $9. They are threaded, so it's a simple matter of unscrewing the old, replacing with the new.

I've heard there's a way to repair a leaky shut off valve too, but I've never done it before.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

Well we got 18 inches of snow last night and my snowblower wouldn't start and kept kicking back. It seems like it will start warm but not cold. I'm thinking having the snowblower in my van on the way to have it worked on yesterday warmed it up enough to make it start. I was talking to my neighbor today who is a retired mechanic and former tank mechanic in the army and the first thing he said is it sounds like the flywheel key is bad so I think that is my next step here. Is this a difficult thing to do and is there a step by step guide somewhere? Where can I find a replacement key? I have another Ariens with a 5hp engine on It? Is there any chance the key might be the same?


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Very rare for a Tecumseh to shear a key ...they are steel and very robust.....the popping out the exhaust may be the exhaust valve clearance being to tight. I would check valve clearance (TDC compression stroke) fix if too tight....and either get a new carb from e-bay or go through yours


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Some good advice here.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...ring-here-is-help-tec-timing-good-read.55784/


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## Lottstodo (Feb 16, 2018)

If this is the original motor , and someone rebuilt it already you have a few different possibilities of what could be going on.

1) possible sloppy flywheel key, partial sheared key.
2) point gap can and will affect timing on older engines ie; to close or to wide, I highly doubt that during reassembly of rebuild that they could have the timing out between cam and crank. however when the flywheel nut was installed if they did not hold the crank , but used the flywheel itself to lock and hold during tightening, then that could move ignition timing as well.
3) Inspect your flywheel carefully for any cracks.
4) and as previously stated valve clearances


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

Took the snowblower over to my neighbors today who is an older guy and used to work on these engines for a living. He suspected a bad flywheel key but we checked it and it's fine. He checked the point gap and said that looks fine. Then he looked at the carburetor and said it looks fairly dirty. He wants to take it apart and clean it tomorrow. Are we on the right track here? Before I took it to my neighbors he suggested I replace the spark plug. He told me to get a J19LM spark plug but I forgot the model he told me and got a RCJ8Y because that was the same one in my machine. The old one by the way way pretty fouled up. I put the new one in and it didn't fix the problem. My neighbor was adamant about the J19LM plug and told me the RCJ8Y fouls up a lot easier. He is an older grumpy guy and tends to get agitated when I don't do exactly what he says but he seems to know his stuff so I'm trying to not let it get to me and try to learn some stuff from him lol. Anyways does what he told me about the spark plug and carburetor make sense to you guys?


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

Rebuild the carb.

I own now 4 snowblowers, 5 lawn mowers, two trimmers. They're all older than at the very least 15 years. A few of them are near 50 now. Every time they wouldn't start, I cleaned/rebuilt the carb, solved all running issues.

I never changed a plug (never even pulled them), never checked points or flywheel key etc. Yes, changed fuel lines, cleaned out the gas tank on a few. 

But every time, doing the carb solved all running issues. It's always the 1st place I start at.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

Do you happen to know what size the fuel line is? Mine is old and cracked and I had to cut it off. How would I go about cleaning the fuel tank? Is there a video or some sort of guide somewhere on how to clean/rebuild the carburetor? My neighbor knows how but I don't want to look stupid tomorrow and if I can do this myself it would be better for him because he has back problems and can't stand or work on things for more than a short period of time. He can walk me through it though if I have any issues and he has all the special tools for working on small engines (pretty much all I have is little more than a socket set).


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## Lottstodo (Feb 16, 2018)

Take some advice from us grumpy old men. The reason your neighbor was adamant about the plug was that he has probably from experience had issues with that brand of plug. I to have my preference. 
Here's the point that I will share, He is right there , you want to save face by pretending that you know how or about something by asking questions to a bunch of guys on key boards. This forum is a great tool for a collaborative input to possible problems but it is not as good as hands on learning and training. 
Swallow your pride and fess up to the man that you have never been around engines and that you never had anyone that could teach you, but earnestly tell him that you would love to learn anything that he could teach or show you.
My guess is that he already knows how much experience you have, and maybe feels your not being honest with him about it. That does not feel good to the teacher either.
You said he has back issues and " grumpy" well I have been sidelined for back issues and poss surgery and I can tell you it just pisses you off when you cant do the things you used to be able to do, and as well depressing.
I have never turned down to help/ teach / show/ instruct /someone who was willing to invest their own time in learning .
You have a great opportunity to be mentored, and a chance to make a friend where you both can help one another out.

But you have to be willing, and honest with yourself and him. Do not forget that the experience he has with motors also applies to people and like many of us here , if it walks like a duck , talks like a duck well you know. 

Sorry just being honest and hoping for you a great opportunity.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

Lottstodo said:


> Take some advice from us grumpy old men. The reason your neighbor was adamant about the plug was that he has probably from experience had issues with that brand of plug. I to have my preference.
> Here's the point that I will share, He is right there , you want to save face by pretending that you know how or about something by asking questions to a bunch of guys on key boards. This forum is a great tool for a collaborative input to possible problems but it is not as good as hands on learning and training.
> Swallow your pride and fess up to the man that you have never been around engines and that you never had anyone that could teach you, but earnestly tell him that you would love to learn anything that he could teach or show you.
> My guess is that he already knows how much experience you have, and maybe feels your not being honest with him about it. That does not feel good to the teacher either.
> ...


I appreciate the input and you are correct. I actually did tell him today that I know next to nothing about small engines. When I call him "grumpy" I don't mean to convey that in a derogatory manner. Sometimes things don't translate too well over the internet. Even though I was upfront about my lack of knowledge in this area he still seems to be annoyed sometimes when I don't know something. I am willing to "put up" with this in order to gain some hands on experience. I do not expect to learn everything over the internet but I do want to do my homework so to speak so I am not totally ignorant. As far as his back problems go I was not complaining about that. Simply trying to find a way I can help him more so he isn't on his feet as much. Trust me. I know about back injuries and I know they are not fun. I had a back injury last summer that took me out of work for about a month and there were times I could barely walk. I have mostly recovered now and I know my neighbor is worse off than me. I wanted to take on this job on my own but he basically insisted I bring the snowblower over so he could help me and I appreciate the help.

On another note does anyone know any chain type store or where I could look locally for a new carburetor? I am seeing them online for under $20 and after watching a video showing how to do a rebuild it might just be quicker and easier to buy a new one. I kind of want to get it running tomorrow because more snow is on the way so ordering online is not an ideal option.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

I'd bet an Ariens dealer might have one on hand, but it'll cost you dearly. Me personally, I rebuild instead of buying new. I am this way simply because I know the original carb will fit.

I am self taught in rebuilding the exact carb you probably have - done it 5 times now. I had never rebuilt that style of carb until February 2018. It isn't that hard if you follow the steps religiously. Buy a rebuild kit (probably Tecumseh part # 31840), and a can of Gumout, and the carb gasket (might be 31688A).

Here's a video how to do it. Not the same engine, but the carb should be very similar.






Follow all 3 videos regarding this. Is it easy to do? Not the first time. But it also isn't impossible to learn.

The fuel line should be 1/4" ID and anywhere from 3/8" to 1/2" OD. Keep in mind, you will have to run the hose from the tank outlet through the engine shroud over to the carb inlet. The shroud will have a support at the middle point. You will only be able to see it when the old line is removed completely and you're looking from the tank side through the line opening. Buy 2 feet of fuel line and trim to fit once it's fed through. If you buy 1/2" OD, it will be tougher to feed through so if you can get 3/8" OD do so.

It's tricky, but it can be done without removing the shroud. If the old guy that helped you check the flywheel key and points showed you what he was doing, you will probably know how this all works together as far as where and how the fuel line feeds through.

Cleaning the fuel tank, you'll have to remove it, fill it maybe with 12-16 oz of brand new fuel and swish it around heavily for a couple minutes (cover both openings), then empty it out into a container you can recycle the gas with.


Me personally, I'd gather what you need and ask the old guy to help/show you how. He could probably do it blindfolded - but your goal really should be learning how to do it yourself. You're gonna get dirty, there's gonna be cleanup. Yet, it's not that difficult to learn, and there's a myriad of resources on the internet to teach you how. Yes, a helper guiding you is fantastic...but even buying a new carb is going to be half the battle as rebuilding it - and rebuilding it might get you up and running tomorrow for a lot less than buying a carb locally.

Sometimes, you just gotta dig in and do it. Study those videos from DonyBoy. Nowadays, I can remove an Ariens Tecumseh carb and have it thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt, then re-assembled and installed in under an hour and I'm up and running. A couple minutes to dial in the idle and high speed screw adjustments, and I'm plowing snow.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Run a somewhat stiff wire through the old fuel line before you remove it (leaving the wire). You now have a guide that makes putting the new line in a trivial process . . .

And I second the rebuild of your carb - there really isn't much going on inside these carbs to worry about.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

To be a little more clear about my background and abilities I have been a machinist (I live in WI and almost applied for a job at Ariens at one point) for over 10 years and have done work on my own vehicles as well as friend's and family's vehicles so I am somewhat mechanically inclined and not afraid to get my hands dirty. That being said I have never worked on small engines or snow blowers up until now. I really value the opportunity to work with someone with a lot of knowledge in this area (he has also worked as a car mechanic and tank mechanic in the Army so there is a lot I can learn from him) but I hate asking him for help due to his medical conditions even though he basically insists on helping. 

So what I did today was I removed everything up until the flywheel then he showed me his method for removing the flywheel. He then checked the key then showed me how to check and adjust the point gap. At that point he suggested to me that we clean the carb tomorrow and we called it a day. The shroud is still off so I am aware of how the new fuel line will go on. I asked my neighbor if I should pick up any parts besides the fuel line and he said he wants to look at the carb first so maybe he has an idea how to clean it without rebuilding it or maybe he has parts laying around. If I need a rebuild kit are there any stores locally where I might find one or will I have to order it online?

I have been thinking about it and I think this summer I might take the snowblower apart and clean it up and fix or replace anything that needs it. Then give it a new paint job and maybe throw a Harbor Freight Predator on it. I have been looking into this and it looks like a simple matter of putting the pulley on the new engine and replacing the mounting bolts with longer ones. Also I might have to relocate the chute lever. Does this sound about right? Anyways that is my possible plan for the future. Right now I just want to get it throwing snow again as inexpensively and as quickly as possible so I make it until spring.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

So my neighbor said he looked at the carburetor and it can't be rebuilt because it is in such bad condition and I need a new one. He said I'll never get the engine running with it in that condition (but I had it running a couple weeks ago). I told him I watched the YouTube video that was posted here and described what was done in the video and suggested that maybe I attempt it myself before replacing the carb. He laughed at me and said even if it was in good enough condition to rebuild you need to put it an acid bath or your wasting your time and that the person who made the video didn't know what they were doing. I then told him I'll just bring the snowblower back home after the flywheel is back on and order a carb and put it on myself when I get it (doesn't seem too difficult to me). He then told me I don't know what I am doing and it's not as simple as I think to put a new carb on.

I am hoping someone comes along and tells me he is correct and I am totally wrong but I am starting to feel like he is trying to take advantage of the situation to get money out if me. Every time he helps me with something or let's me borrow something he always comes to me after the fact and says "you owe me this much money". He did that the last two times I borrowed his snowblower when mine didn't work (even though I cleared his driveway for him and spent half the day digging his 4 wheeler out of the snow) and he knows we have a snowstorm coming tomorrow. I don't want to make this thread about my neighbor but rather what needs to be done to fix my snowblower. I am really hoping you guys confirm that what he is saying makes sense because I don't want to think he is trying to take advantage of the situation but I have my doubts at this point.


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

stop asking for help from this neighbor, if i couldnt fix it cause of my lack of skills it be better to bite the bullet on paying a repair guy to fix it or buy another one.

back to the problem at hand. dont use acid. any carb cleaner would suffice in cleaning the carb, ultrasonics do help but i have not bought one yet and i dont plan on getting one.
many a youtube vids on cleaning the carb and/or adjusting carb...... or getting a cheap clone but that takes time for delivery.

fyi, theres plenty of youtube videos on almost everything on fixing snowblowers and how to start and use them, but time and patience and a willingness to learn is needed, and just basic hand tools to get started.

the forum is here to help you answer questions, just ask and post pics or vids of your blower and its parts u have questions about.

fyi just keep questions short and to the point and paragraphed for easier reading


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Unless the carb is mechanically deformed or massively corroded, I can't see any reason why any carb could not be cleaned (well, utterly bogged emulsion tube might be one . . . but solvent and time should get that as well). I'd have a go at cleaning it *before* you buy a rebuild kit, and it if cleans up, you can get the kit for gaskets and needles and go from there, and if not, you are out about $2 in carb cleaner and a small amount of time . . .


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

tadawson said:


> Unless the carb is mechanically deformed or massively corroded, I can't see any reason why any carb could not be cleaned (well, utterly bogged emulsion tube might be one . . . but solvent and time should get that as well). I'd have a go at cleaning it *before* you buy a rebuild kit, and it if cleans up, you can get the kit for gaskets and needles and go from there, and if not, you are out about $2 in carb cleaner and a small amount of time . . .


That's kind of what I was thinking. I may go ahead and try to clean the carb myself. I was seriously considering doing the predator swap when the weather is nicer so if this becomes a big ordeal I may just bite the bullet and do the swap sooner rather than later. I have a friend who has the same snowblower with a blown engine so he may be interested in buying the tecumseh from me. Well see what happens.


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## tlshawks (Feb 9, 2018)

I seem to recall I believe DonyBoy rebuild a carburetor that appeared to have been soaked in crude oil and set on fire...and got it up and working doing nothing special other than hand cleaning it thoroughly and using a can of carb cleaner, air compressor, and full rebuild kit. 

It was as bad as I've ever seen a small engine carburetor be. The only thing "special" I believe he did was replace the Welsh plugs. 

I'd have to see pictures of this dead carb before I'd pronounce it toast. And I'm far from an expert.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

I decided to go ahead with the predator swap. The old engine came off very easy and quickly. The studs that some people have had to grind popped right off with a few light taps from a hammer. Looks like they are identical to studs I spot weld on to parts at work sometimes. Maybe eventually I can take it into work and spot weld longer studs on but for now how long should the bolts I use be? The pulley came off the old engine very easy with a puller tool. How does the pulley go on the predator? The same way it was on the tecumseh? Once I get these questions resolved I think I will have the predator on in no time. About to go pick it up now.


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## jg121793 (Nov 21, 2018)

Got the predator on and broken in. Did a little snow blowing today and I am very happy with this engine. It starts on the first pull every time and throws further than the other engine did. Only issue I have to work out is the chute control and I plan on making an adaptor at work this weekend to relocate it. I'll post some pictures later.


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