# Craftsman 536887000 Time!



## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

So I just got a 536.887000 Craftsman with a 32" clearing path and 10hp tecumseh engine! FOR FREE! So plans for it are new carb (don't feel like rebuilding), new tires, fresh oil, new plug, and hopefully start it! Previous owner said it ran when he parked it and it turns over with compression. 

2 things I am having trouble with.

I have purchased a new Oregon brand replacement carb and now what to order some tires. There doesn't seem to be a size on the sidewalls. Any idea what this model takes? It has a rather turf looking tread and I want to go aggressive V-tread  so I can ditch the chains.

Also, which electric start conversion fits my engine? It is tecumseh 143786062 but I don't know if I see a kit on eBay for this exact engine.


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Scratch the first question - the tire size was dry rotted into the tire as 4.80x4.00x8. But still need info on electric starter conversion please.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

A picture of the engine would help, but if I had to guess, it's Tecumseh 33329.


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Heres some pics


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

:white^_^arial^_^0^_ Larry. 
db130 is correct, 33329 c, d or e will fit your 10 hp HM100-159140M Tecumseh motor. This is the service manual for future repairs.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf

It is hard to see from your pictures, does your flywheel have a ring gear on it? If not, then you will also need a new flywheel.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I can almost make out the number in the photo.
Does that number say
148 786062 ?
if so it's a 
HM100 159140M

edit;
Doh. Grunt beat me.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I can see the "this engine is provisioned for an electric starter" decal on the recoil starter, I think he's good to go with the flywheel with teeth.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

dbert said:


> I can almost make out the number in the photo.
> Does that number say
> 148 786062 ?
> if so it's a
> ...





db130 said:


> I can see the "this engine is provisioned for an electric starter" decal on the recoil starter, I think he's good to go with the flywheel with teeth.


Sorry dbert, we always seem to post a minute before or after each other.

db130, good eye.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Hard to beat that deal! My favorite four-letter "F" word!


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Thanks to all!

An update:

Bought an electric start kit, 2 xtrac 4.80-8, new oregon carb, and will probably dump some fresh 15W-40 in there too. Will update with pics and hopefully an update that she starts!


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Larry said:


> Thanks to all!
> 
> An update:
> 
> Bought an electric start kit, 2 xtrac 4.80-8, new oregon carb, and will probably dump some fresh 15W-40 in there too. Will update with pics and hopefully an update that she starts!


does that engine spec 15w-40 ?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

nwcove said:


> does that engine spec 15w-40 ?


I would think 5W30 instead


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Not sure what it specs? I have 15w-40 in everything I own since I could turn a key. With the electric start and splash oiling it won't matter what I have in there.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Larry said:


> Not sure what it specs? I have 15w-40 in everything I own since I could turn a key. With the electric start and splash oiling it won't matter what I have in there.


when its cold, it will matter. molasses doesnt splash so well.


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Now heres a question - belts! I should have fresh belts! Putting my model number in shows "obsolete" belts from sears. Does anyone know what sizes I need?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Do you know the Sears belt part numbers? If so, here is a link that lists the width and length of the belts by part number.

SEARS Belt size, length, width for SEARS belts by part number.


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Grunt said:


> Do you know the Sears belt part numbers? If so, here is a link that lists the width and length of the belts by part number.
> 
> SEARS Belt size, length, width for SEARS belts by part number.


I will pull them tonight and have more information. Hopefully I can post up so others can reference later on. I'll have to grab some 5W-30 too - seems like 15W-40 is not suggested by anyone here.


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Using this link it only shows 2 belts. Is it possible I only have 2 belts? Craftsman 536887000 Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com

I have found the following 2 belts which I believe are for my model - please let me know what you think.

Exact Size Traction Belt for Murray Craftsman Snowblower 1733324SM 579932 MA | eBay

Kevlar V Belt Replaces Noma 313851 32131 45217 and 51458 1 2x39 | eBay


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Also - oil capacity 20oz?


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

IIRC the oil capacity is a little less than a quart. Again, it's either 5W30 or 10W30 depending on usage or average temps. 
I like that engine, only thing to watch is if you ever have the governor stick etc and have a runaway, shut it down immediately. If you don't you can throw a rod.


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

Im going to buy some 5w-30 today...for the first time in my life lol

Also 2 other places I am giving attention to.

The oil in the front auger - i see a square head bolt - pull that and just make sure its full of gear oil?

And the belt pulleys - they spin great but what do I lube them with? Spray grease or something thin?


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

SHES ALIVEEEEEEEEEEEE

Thanks all for the tips. 

Put 26 ounces SAE30 in it (still not ready to go to 5W-30 lol). I think 26 ounces is what the 10hp tecumseh takes so that gives us some lube. 

Runs but governor surges and so I think I need to adjust the position on the arm. Only ran it for 10 seconds so maybe just keeping her running a little longer would help.

Questions above still linger - do I lube pulley bearings that spin smooth? Leave them alone?

Do I check oil and fill auger drive box up front? I have some thick gear oil that might do the trick if its low.

I'm also going to hit everything else with PB Blaster corrosion stop - thick greasy lube and anti-rust.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Larry said:


> SHES ALIVEEEEEEEEEEEE
> 
> Thanks all for the tips.
> 
> ...


Congratulations!

regarding the surge, it can be carb related (is it still running with the old carb or the Oregon replacement?)...want to rule that out before monkeying with the governor settings...and anytime you monkey with the governor, I strongly recommend having a tach on hand (target 3500 RPM to start with and you'll allow wiggle room to the 3600 spec).


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

classiccat said:


> Congratulations!
> 
> regarding the surge, it can be carb related (is it still running with the old carb or the Oregon replacement?)...want to rule that out before monkeying with the governor settings...and anytime you monkey with the governor, I strongly recommend having a tach on hand (target 3500 RPM to start with and you'll allow wiggle room to the 3600 spec).


Thanks for the help on diagnosis. I have the Oregon carb on there. I am going to guess I got the arm on a degree or so off. It will start on choke real easily, then hunt around, adjusting the choke to a certain point helps but the governor is still working to keep it alive and I am working to have it at the right choke constantly. I only ran it for 10 seconds so maybe thats the problem?


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## Larry (Nov 9, 2015)

So this is what its doing. I reached down to play with that spring loaded screw on the bottom of the bowl. I am guessing that sets float height so I figured it might help? Let me know what you think I could do to smooth it out. She definitely doesn't want to run under any condition at low RPMs. Makes me think a new plug may be necessary due to an eroded gap that blows out at low RPM. But I also don't want to fiddle with spark and ruin the little running I have.


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