# Honda HS928 electrical issue



## Marc_NL (Dec 17, 2017)

I bought my current blower two years ago, it's now 9 years old. This season I've had trouble with the electrics, and I'm trying to figure out the source.

The first time I started it this year the electric starter wouldn't work. The solenoid was clicking in and out, but not closing, so I started it with a pull. The headlamp worked, but the chute motor wouldn't operate. I took the battery out and charged it up, and everything worked fine after that.

Fast forward to yesterday, and again the battery went flat in storage. Again the headlamp works but the chute motor doesn't. I disconnected the headlamp to save power, and by the time I had finished all my blowing (which is less fun with a fixed chute), the chute motor would operate again. 

To my (limited) mind I've got either an expired battery that won't hold a charge, something draining the battery during storage, or maybe an alternator that's crapping out and not delivering full power. 

I figure if it was just the alternator then the chute motor should still work, just more slowly. Unless the motor runs exclusively off the battery?

Can someone help me work out a diagnostic algorithm for this?


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

The easiest thing to do, is take the battery to your local parts store and have them load test it. If it's not load tested, it's not tested. If the battery tests good go to the next step.

Take the positive side off the battery, put a multimeter on it set to milliamps. Put the meter between the positive terminal and the positive cable that is usually attached to the battery. One lead on each. If there is a reading, it's probably a short caused by a cracked wire shorting to the chassis. If you don't have a meter, you can use a test light, or a light bulb. The brighter the bulb the worse the short/drain. Not as accurate as a meter, but will tell the story.

If there is no drain, start the blower, measure the voltage at the battery. Should be 14 volts or so, typically 14.3 on a car. Anything under 13.5 is bad, and you have a bad alternator. (I don't know what the manufacturer's spec is on the alternator you'll have to check that)


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

is there anyway you can check the alternator with a meter while it's running like you can on a car? does the lamp brighten from a low idle to a fast throttle? if it does I think the alternator is working.

have you checked and cleaned all connections and grounds?

hopefully, an electrical type person will contribute something else.


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## Marc_NL (Dec 17, 2017)

Thanks for the reply.

For load testing, could I just put my multimeter across it and turn the starter? I'll have to charge it first anyway.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

Marc_NL said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> For load testing, could I just put my multimeter across it and turn the starter? I'll have to charge it first anyway.


I guess you could, however, my local Auto Zone has some complicated contraption that measures all kinds of stuff. I'd take it to them, it's a more comprehensive test. I don't now where you live, and if that's even feasible. I take for granted I can buy just about anything here, any time of day.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

Nevermind. I read it wrong. I need to stop doing three things at a time and pay attention to one. Hey look, something shiny.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

orangputeh said:


> is there anyway you can check the alternator with a meter while it's running like you can on a car? does the lamp brighten from a low idle to a fast throttle? if it does I think the alternator is working..


Yeah, just put a meter on the battery terminals as it's running. Automotive spec is 14.3 I'm not sure what snowblower spec is.


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## jonnied12 (Jan 14, 2017)

Your battery is bad. Just buy a new one. Always keep a battery tender hooked up to it.
If you continue using the bad battery, it will burn out the alternator.
The reason your controls will not work at first is because all the alternator output is going to charge the battery. As the voltage increases, in the battery, the charge current goes down, leaving more current to operate the controls.


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

jonnied12 said:


> Your battery is bad. Just buy a new one. Always keep a battery tender hooked up to it.
> If you continue using the bad battery, it will burn out the alternator.
> The reason your controls will not work at first is because all the alternator output is going to charge the battery. As the voltage increases, in the battery, the charge current goes down, leaving more current to operate the controls.


Makes the most sense. Occom's Razor. The simplest explanation is probably the right one.


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## Natty Bumpo (Jan 21, 2017)

jonnied12 said:


> Your battery is bad. Just buy a new one. Always keep a battery tender hooked up to it.
> If you continue using the bad battery, it will burn out the alternator.
> .


Is that battery NINE years old?? If so, its long past its useful lifespan, put it out to pasture.


Battery tenders are da' bomb. A good one will keep those batteries in tip top shape and extend their lifespan as well.


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## Marc_NL (Dec 17, 2017)

jonnied12 said:


> Your battery is bad. Just buy a new one. Always keep a battery tender hooked up to it.
> If you continue using the bad battery, it will burn out the alternator.
> The reason your controls will not work at first is because all the alternator output is going to charge the battery. As the voltage increases, in the battery, the charge current goes down, leaving more current to operate the controls.


The battery had gone flat again, putting out 10V at rest. With the engine running I was reading about 16V at the terminals, fluctuating a bit. 

Oddly, when I ran the engine with the battery disconnected it was only putting about 14V to the leads. The headlamp lit up and would dim with lower revs, but the chute motor still didn’t work. 

Currently charging the battery for a load test. I’m not certain if it’s the original battery, but would always like to avoid treating things as disposable, no matter the age.


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## Marc_NL (Dec 17, 2017)

Natty Bumpo said:


> Is that battery NINE years old?? If so, its long past its useful lifespan, put it out to pasture.
> 
> 
> Battery tenders are da' bomb. A good one will keep those batteries in tip top shape and extend their lifespan as well.


Not sure whether it was replaced before I owned it. Some of the cells have low fluid, so I’m also going to try adding some distilled water.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Marc_NL said:


> Not sure whether it was replaced before I owned it. Some of the cells have low fluid, so I’m also going to try adding some distilled water.


as a last resort before replacing you could try reconditioning battery. you-tube videos on that. very cheap.

i have done that with some success but usually just extends life of battery just a little.


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## jonnied12 (Jan 14, 2017)

missileman said:


> Did you verify if you were getting voltage on the chute motor connecting plugs.


 Good point. I'm not sure, but the motor power may reply on the battery for the power. I would have to see the wiring diagram.


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## Marc_NL (Dec 17, 2017)

missileman said:


> Did you verify if you were getting voltage on the chute motor connecting plugs.


I figured that wasn’t the trouble, since the chute motor will run after the battery is charged. 

Out of curiosity, here is a picture of my battery. Trying to figure out what the OEM battery is/was for this model, but nobody seems to have that info.


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## jonnied12 (Jan 14, 2017)

Take it to your local auto parts store. I bet they have a replacement for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM2212Y-YB12A-A-Battery/dp/B000GTW04Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516290521&sr=8-1&keywords=yb12a-a+battery


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

jonnied12 said:


> Take it to your local auto parts store. I bet they have a replacement for it.
> https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM22...id=1516290521&sr=8-1&keywords=yb12a-a+battery


Yes most any small 12volt of the same dimensions will work for you. Just be sure the connections are oriented the same as yours. I got a replacement for mine from Canadian Tire. The first one I had to take it back because the terminals were the wrong way. Exchange was no problem ,just inconvenient. Best to check it at the store.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Marc_NL said:


> The first time I started it this year the electric starter wouldn't work. The solenoid was clicking in and out, but not closing, so I started it with a pull. The headlamp worked, but the chute motor wouldn't operate. I took the battery out and charged it up, and everything worked fine after that.
> 
> Fast forward to yesterday, and again the battery went flat in storage. Again the headlamp works but the chute motor doesn't. I disconnected the headlamp to save power, and by the time I had finished all my blowing (which is less fun with a fixed chute), the chute motor would operate again.


The later HSS units have the chute motors operate directly from the generator/charge coils from the engine, but seems like the older models are wired differently and the power chute motors operate from the battery (I have an older Yamaha YS240-Ricky which works that way, if the battery is discharged the chute power turn won't work).

If the battery is original I'd change it, and it will probably be fixed.

:blowerhug:


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

YSHSfan said:


> The later HSS units have the chute motors operate directly from the generator/charge coils from the engine, but seems like the older models are wired differently and the power chute motors operate from the battery (I have an older Yamaha YS240-Ricky which works that way, if the battery is discharged the chute power turn won't work).
> 
> If the battery is original I'd change it, and it will probably be fixed.
> 
> :blowerhug:


My 2008 HS928 (Canadian) only the starter runs from the battery. The chute motors will run from the alternator/generator or the battery if the engine is off. Had a bad battery last year and there was no problems with the chute motors on a dead battery.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Prime said:


> My 2008 HS928 (Canadian) only the starter runs from the battery. The chute motors will run from the alternator/generator or the battery if the engine is off. Had a bad battery last year and there was no problems with the chute motors on a dead battery.


Well, that changes my theory.
On my Yamaha the chute motor will work with the engine on or off as long as the key is on the on position.
If the battery is dead or bad, the power chute turn won't work even with the engine on (I suspect the charging capacity is not strong enough to turn the motor and that is why it relies on the battery as it does the 12v starter).


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## Prime (Jan 11, 2014)

YSHSfan said:


> Well, that changes my theory.
> On my Yamaha the chute motor will work with the engine on or off as long as the key is on the on position.
> If the battery is dead or bad, the power chute turn won't work even with the engine on (I suspect the charging capacity is not strong enough to turn the motor and that is why it relies on the battery as it does the 12v starter).


Yamaha and Honda are probably different on the electrical. Anyways I worked with a dead battery for probably a month. Had to start with recoil and the chute rotation would only work with engine running. I didnt try the blower with no battery hooked up. Not sure if that would be possible. May need the battery to complete the circuit. I only put the new battery to have the 12v start working again, nice feature.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Prime said:


> Yamaha and Honda are probably different on the electrical. Anyways I worked with a dead battery for probably a month. Had to start with recoil and the chute rotation would only work with engine running. I didnt try the blower with no battery hooked up. Not sure if that would be possible. May need the battery to complete the circuit. I only put the new battery to have the 12v start working again, nice feature.


Good to know.
A wiring diagram for the OP snowblower model may help identify whether the motor is supposed to work from just the battery, just the charging system or both of them....


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

missileman said:


> Hi Marc
> Here is a wiring diagram for the Chute Motor with the Battery.Their is another without the battery and another with the battery and auger sensor.Hope this is of some help to you.
> This is for a HSS928A
> 
> ...


Is this for the 2015+ US made HSS model...?
If so, it may not help as the OP's unit is ~2009-2010 Canadian model


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## jonnied12 (Jan 14, 2017)

I think the OP is out getting a new battery, haven't seen him today.:wink2:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

missileman said:


> I didn't see where he stated the year,I assumed it was an earlier model.If that's the case I will delete that post,thanks for pointing that out.


I did not mean to discourage you by any means and your diagram may help others with the later HSS models, no need to delete it.
In the very first post the OP stated that his unit is about 9 years old....


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