# Performance comparison



## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Just went over to our church to blow out the entrance doors for tomorrow. We have a 10 year old Honda HS928, and, today was the first time I’ve used it since buying my new Honda HS1332ATC. The little 928 always seemed to have lots of power. Today I noticed how much faster That little machine can eat up snow as compared to my new blower. It growls through nearly anything with hardly flinching. Mind you, I only have 14 hours on my new blower, but, I’m really wondering why that little Honda has so much more punch. I’m sure it’s probably not running too lean like mine. Could a bigger jet and more hours and maybe an increase in rpm improve the performance of mine to equal the little 928? The 928 does seem to run with quite a bit more rpm, that’s for sure.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

csonni said:


> The 928 does seem to run with quite a bit more rpm, that’s for sure.


That could be your answer right there. Have you put a tachometer on both and verified they're running at the right RPM?


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

ELaw said:


> That could be your answer right there. Have you put a tachometer on both and verified they're running at the right RPM?


I haven’t yet considered buying a tach until now. Any suggestions for one? And how might you connect it to get a reading?


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

I've got this one: https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Tachometer-Stroke-Outboard-Mercury/dp/B00ACDP6YU

It's super-cheesy but cheap and it works. It comes with a long wire on it, you just wrap the wire a few turns around the spark plug wire and it picks up the spark signal.

The other half of the equation is finding the spec for the RPM on each machine (/engine)... I'm not a Honda expert but hopefully someone else here knows?


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Simple enough but quite a hefty price tag for a cheesy plastic gadget. I’d almost rather go by ear and save that amount.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Now here’s one in my range. 
https://www.amazon.ca/Tachometer-Generator-Motorcycle-Snowmobile-Non-replaceable/dp/B01LLH81QU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1517692373&sr=8-8&keywords=Tachometer


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

Maybe the link I posted isn't working right?

The page I linked to has a unit for US$12.99. The link you posted is for the same unit (from a different seller) for CDN$18.50.

Unless maybe the one I posted has a crazy shipping charge to Canada? I'm in the US and have a Prime membership so I get free shipping.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

ELaw said:


> Maybe the link I posted isn't working right?
> 
> The page I linked to has a unit for US$12.99. The link you posted is to the same unit (from a different seller) for CDN$18.50.


Ok. The link brought me to amazon Canada with a price of $65.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

Ow! Yeah, $65 would be nuts for that unit.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

I suppose any one of those tachs would work as long as it’s got a wire for hooking up.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

Yeah, I suspect all the ones that have the same appearance are the same anyway. It seems like they're being sold by 100 different vendors.

I think you'd be fine with any tach that states it's for small engines and has the wire that wraps around the spark plug wire.

There are other types... if you search here there's actually a thread about tachometers. The kind you do *not* want is the automotive type that's meant to hook to the negative terminal of the ignition coil. The ignition system on a small engine is enough different from a car that those won't work.

Also if you got an automotive one that was meant to hook to a spark plug wire, it's possible it would read double the correct RPM as small engines fire the spark plug on every revolution, whereas car engines (at least older ones with distributors) only fire every other rev.


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## ZOMGVTEK (Sep 25, 2014)

Just an FYI, you can get those cheapie tachometers for $6-8 from China if you can wait a month.

I'm not sure if this is the cheapest one, but as an example...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot...5dbb-4f94-a33f-8363a5bbe76f&priceBeautifyAB=0


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

The battery in those things must be for the hours timer. I saw one that stated it didn’t need a battery for a tach reading. Is this the case? I already have an hours timer built in on my Honda. All I need is the tach.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

I'm 99% sure the battery is needed for the tach. The battery in mine is almost dead... the digits on the LCD are so faint they're almost unreadable. And when I hook it to an engine, it doesn't get any better.

The batteries in those units supposedly aren't replaceable, but people in the tach thread have indicated that with correctly-applied violence the case can be opened and the battery changed. I'm going to be trying that soon...


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

I’m gonna look for a user-replaceable battery as there’s a good chance of getting one with an aged battery.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

As ELaw said, in recent discussions, you can apparently get inexpensive ones (still ~$10) that have user-replaceable batteries. 

Mine are not supposed to be user-replaceable, and yes, their displays are getting faint. But before tossing them, I'll try prying the cases open and replacing the batteries. If I can, great, and if not, I buy a replacement anyhow. 

But for a simple & inexpensive tool, they are definitely worth it. They take engine governor setup from "It sounds a little low, I think", to "3320 RPM". 

And agreed that the battery is needed for tachometer function. It powers the display, and presumably the guts. I believe the wire merely senses the ignition firing, and does not use the wire to draw power for the device.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Buy a decent tach, $20 or more. I’ve used those cheapy ones before the battery gets really weak after 3-4 years. The display becomes almost unreadable. The hardline tach on my eu2000i is 5 years old with no signs of a weak battery. $26 bucks on amazon.

Don’t forget your 1332 has 4 more inches of clearing width to deal with. These engines feel more robust as they get some real hours on them. 14 hours is practically brand new still.


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

ELaw said:


> I'm 99% sure the battery is needed for the tach. The battery in mine is almost dead... the digits on the LCD are so faint they're almost unreadable. And when I hook it to an engine, it doesn't get any better.
> 
> The batteries in those units supposedly aren't replaceable, but people in the tach thread have indicated that with correctly-applied violence the case can be opened and the battery changed. I'm going to be trying that soon...


A Dremel with a cutting wheel imparts sufficient violence. Hot glue back together and to seal :grin:


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

CalgaryPT said:


> A Dremel with a cutting wheel imparts sufficient violence. Hot glue back together and to seal :grin:


My bottom panel snapped off with a fine blade knife, and then snapped back in. Easy-peazy.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

csonni said:


> Just went over to our church to blow out the entrance doors for tomorrow. We have a 10 year old Honda HS928, and, today was the first time I’ve used it since buying my new Honda HS1332ATC. The little 928 always seemed to have lots of power. Today I noticed how much faster That little machine can eat up snow as compared to my new blower. It growls through nearly anything with hardly flinching. Mind you, I only have 14 hours on my new blower, but, I’m really wondering why that little Honda has so much more punch. I’m sure it’s probably not running too lean like mine. Could a bigger jet and more hours and maybe an increase in rpm improve the performance of mine to equal the little 928? The 928 does seem to run with quite a bit more rpm, that’s for sure.


I'd love to see them in action side by side..... 

The only thing that I can think of is that the engine on the 1332 is not broken-in yet and it is dropping RPMs considerably besides the fact that according to another thread the HS928 impeller spins slightly faster than the HSS1332 and therefore the augers do as well speeding up the whole snow removal process on the 928 ......


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

csonni said:


> Just went over to our church to blow out the entrance doors for tomorrow.


I'm pretty certain that if you do snow removal for a church you go straight to heaven.

I had a neighbour years ago who had a shovel on the front of his ATV. He used to push all the snow on to another neighbour's sidewalk and driveway due to a disagreement they had years earlier.

I don't think he's going straight to heaven. Well, maybe after a pitstop first :devil:


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## jsup (Nov 19, 2017)

The new one probably runs leaner. I bet a re-jet would prove useful on the newer one.

As to the tach, don't worry about accuracy if you're just comparing one to the other. It will be off the same amount on both.


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## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

I do have a HSS1332 and waiting for the new main jet to arrive. Actually, i have 2 snowblower, my old Canadian Tire motormaster ( or motorcraft) 33 inch wide (not sure about the engine, something i bought second hand) and my new HSS1332. My old snow blower can eat the honda any time. I do use my old one at my place, and the honda is at my apartment building. I use to clean my own driveway at my place, then goes to the apartment and clean the parking lot with the honda. So same snow, same everyting. With the Honda i keep having to adjust the speed of the transmission because the engine is bogging... As soon as the honda face 6 inch of snow, you can hear the engine start to change and if i dont slow the speed, it will eventually stall on me. No torque what so ever... and the governer is working. My old mastercraft get into any now, with no sound change from the engine, except you can hear the governer kicking in... very strong, very torky engine. It can move snow. If i had the chance to test the honda before i bought it... i would have never bought it, simple as that. Engine is simply not strong ennough.

No wonder honda gives 5 years warranty on any purchase this year... I bet they lost lots of buisness to arien and all the others.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Today’s dump of another foot of snow has really changed our landscape now. We’re talking the most snow I’ve ever seen here in Labrador since moving here in ‘97. Environment Canada now says it’s the most on the ground since the ‘70’s. And we still have our snow months to go- the rest of Feb and all of March. I did notice tonight that my Honda went through the snow with more pep. Must be the breaking in thing.


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

grabber said:


> I do have a HSS1332 and waiting for the new main jet to arrive. Actually, i have 2 snowblower, my old Canadian Tire motormaster ( or motorcraft) 33 inch wide (not sure about the engine, something i bought second hand) and my new HSS1332. My old snow blower can eat the honda any time. I do use my old one at my place, and the honda is at my apartment building. I use to clean my own driveway at my place, then goes to the apartment and clean the parking lot with the honda. So same snow, same everyting. With the Honda i keep having to adjust the speed of the transmission because the engine is bogging... As soon as the honda face 6 inch of snow, you can hear the engine start to change and if i dont slow the speed, it will eventually stall on me. No torque what so ever... and the governer is working. My old mastercraft get into any now, with no sound change from the engine, except you can hear the governer kicking in... very strong, very torky engine. It can move snow. If i had the chance to test the honda before i bought it... i would have never bought it, simple as that. Engine is simply not strong ennough.
> 
> No wonder honda gives 5 years warranty on any purchase this year... I bet they lost lots of buisness to arien and all the others.


The gx390 is an absolute beast of an engine. Blows away anything CT sells and it's not even close. The problem is not the engine, it's just not getting enough fuel. A #108 jet will be a very cheap, easy and quick fix of that for you. Why Honda are running them so lean is beyond me. I know they have to be emissions compliant, be there must be a better way of accomplishing that without castrating the engine!


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Marlow said:


> Why Honda are running them so lean is beyond me. I know they have to be emissions compliant, be there must be a better way of accomplishing that without castrating the engine!


There is a fix that the automobile industry uses to meet emissions - a catalytic convertor. :surprise:$$$$
Much cheaper to use a smaller jet, run it lean, and let the end user change it out.


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

RIT333 said:


> Much cheaper to use a smaller jet, run it lean, and let the end user change it out.


I don't think it's cheaper when looking at the full scope of it. Many people are displeased with the power output of the new Honda's, and most know nothing about jetting. So now these people are going around telling others that their new honda sucks and now honda is gaining a reputation that they are under powered these days. And that reputation means lost sales. And lost sales mean lost $$$. To me, tarnishing their reputation is an extremely expensive problem for them to bring upon themselves, they need to find a way to clean up emissions without robbing power from the engine or putting the responsibility on the "end user" to mod it. Most end users don't even know what a jet is, let alone know that's the issue. There HAS to be another way. I mean, are Yamaha and B&S engines also fuel starved and under powered these days? If not, what are they doing that Honda isn't?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

RIT333 said:


> Much cheaper to use a smaller jet, run it lean, and let the end user change it out.


Absolutely cheaper to implement, no question. But how many users bought high-end machines, and are currently underwhelmed with their performance, without knowing that there is a fairly-straightforward remedy? 

And what does negative word-of-mouth by those users cost the brand? 

If your neighbor buys a nice new machine, and the engine in your old brand X is performing better in the same snow, are you likely to buy a machine like your neighbor's? 

This situation can't be good for Honda. I'm not suggested they took lightly the decision to jet them this way, mind you, there must have been compelling reasons. But I have to imagine that there are repercussions in the marketplace due to this. The image of their brand may be eroded, and people wanting a Honda may be incentivized to buy an older used Honda, vs a new one.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Ha, apparently Marlow and I were thinking along the same lines, at the same time. 

He must be a wise man, with a good point


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

I agree on those points for sure. Just ran the little 928 again this morning. I’ll be thrilled if a bigger jet gets my HSS1332 to run like that little beast. I can tell that even the throwing distance is farther.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

The future of small engine emissions compliance. 

https://www.nettinc.com/honda/honda-small-engine-exhaust-catalytic-converter.html


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## CalgaryPT (Dec 7, 2016)

drmerdp said:


> The future of small engine emissions compliance.
> 
> https://www.nettinc.com/honda/honda-small-engine-exhaust-catalytic-converter.html


California, due to its population and political influence, sets standards for the rest of us. I recently heard that due to their PPM restrictions on lead (which in some cases are less than what naturally occurs in water) Canadian Maple Syrup makers have to make costly retrofits to equipment to sell to California (which is its largest maple syrup importer).

I'm just happy my 724 doesn't run on maple syrup. I'd have both re-jetting compliance issues as well as lead compliance to worry about.

(I'm still re-jetting BTW).


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## ThumperACC (Mar 3, 2017)

drmerdp said:


> The future of small engine emissions compliance.
> 
> https://www.nettinc.com/honda/honda-small-engine-exhaust-catalytic-converter.html


That just makes me ill. :icon-sick::icon-sick: :RantExplode:

Thumper


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

csonni said:


> ...maybe an increase in rpm improve the performance of mine to equal the little 928? The 928 does seem to run with quite a bit more rpm, that’s for sure.


Supplement to my shop manual, 2007:

HS928 (Max engine speed: 3,600 +/- 150 RPM)
Auger: 125 RPM (TA, TAS, WA, WAS)
Impeller/Blower: 1,307 RPM (TA, TAS, WA, WAS)

The HSS shop manual has specifications for the auger and impeller speeds: 

HSS928 (engine speed set to 3,600 RPM)
Auger 134 RPM 
Impeller 1,226 RPM 

HSS1332 (engine speed set to 3,500 RPM)
Auger 138 RPM 
Impeller 1,267 RPM


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## Jatoxico (Jan 6, 2018)

drmerdp said:


> The future of small engine emissions compliance.
> 
> https://www.nettinc.com/honda/honda-small-engine-exhaust-catalytic-converter.html


Nice find.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

jrom said:


> Supplement to my shop manual, 2007:
> 
> HS928 (Max engine speed: 3,600 +/- 150 RPM)
> Auger: 125 RPM (TA, TAS, WA, WAS)
> ...


Just got my little tachometer in the mail yesterday. Will check out the rpm this morning.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Just checked it at 3290 RPM. A bit low, eh?


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

csonni said:


> Just checked it at 3290 RPM. A bit low, eh?


Yeah, 3,290 RPM is too low. I run my HS928 at 3,650 RPM all day long. No issues whatsoever.

When the dealer set-up your machine, he might not have adjusted the throttle cable properly. Not sure on the new HSS models, but the engine RPM on the older HS series could be increased simply by tightening the throttle cable a couple turns under the operator panel. My machine was running at 3,200 RPM from the dealer. Couple turns on the throttle cable adjustment bolts and I had a steady 3,650 RPM with NOTICEABLE performance gains relative to snow throwing distance and volume.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Freezn said:


> Couple turns on the throttle cable adjustment bolts and I had a steady 3,650 RPM with NOTICEABLE performance gains relative to snow throwing distance and volume.


I believe I already adjusted the cable underneath the panel to where full throttle happens early before the lever reaches the upper limit of the slot in the panel. Is there another way to increase rpm?


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## bigtim1985 (Jan 31, 2016)

yes, if you follow the throttle cable down to the carb there is a screw that limits the max throttle. There is a small hole to access it, but it's easier to take off the air box lid and cover underneath (the manual calls it the muffler nose). (3) 10mm bolts if i remember correctly. Loosening the screw increases rpm and tightening it decreases rpm.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Perfect. Thank you. Just shoveled 3 plus feet of our shop roof. Gonna need some umph to clear our path between the shop and the house.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

If I increase my rpm to 3650 before upping my main jet size, typically, will the new jet increase the rpm even more?


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## Jarsh (Jan 4, 2018)

Checked mine after the swap. No difference!


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## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

Anyway, i am just anxious to rejet mine... was looking at my neighbour few min ago blowing the back yard of his house... this 928 has to blow snow at least 50% (if not 100%)farther than my HSS1332
this blower blow snow like nothing else IMO.

Honda really messed it with the new HSS generation.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

grabber said:


> Anyway, i am just anxious to rejet mine... was looking at my neighbour few min ago blowing the back yard of his house... this 928 has to blow snow at least 50% (if not 100%)farther than my HSS1332
> this blower blow snow like nothing else IMO.
> 
> Honda really messed it with the new HSS generation.


Maybe he has and impeller and or raised his motor rpms
have you checked yours?
alot come set low


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

grabber said:


> Anyway, i am just anxious to rejet mine... was looking at my neighbour few min ago blowing the back yard of his house... this 928 has to blow snow at least 50% (if not 100%)farther than my HSS1332
> this blower blow snow like nothing else IMO.
> 
> Honda really messed it with the new HSS generation.


Throwing distance is definitely no issue on my 1332. Throws it to the next town. What you should do is have somebody else use your snowblower while you stand back and watch. From that outside point of view, you'll be able to see more clear how well it's throwing it. At least in my case it out throws the old 928 by a significant margin.


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## northeast (Dec 29, 2017)

They will throw it a mile if you are willing to let it work at an old mans pace. No disrespect intended to any members. These machine are very slow and underwhelming in stock form. 

Let me explain it another way. These two machine are making me 500 dollars per hour on the meters. Before I modified them I would say they were making me 250 an hour. They are twice as fast modified. I have posted a video in the re jet thread that backs this up.


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## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

1132le said:


> Maybe he has and impeller and or raised his motor rpms
> have you checked yours?
> alot come set low


lol you dont know my neighbour.... He is a good guy, but Im still surprise i can handle a snowblower. I bet he doesnt know what a spark plug is... his blower is stock beleive me.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

grabber said:


> lol you dont know my neighbour.... He is a good guy, but Im still surprise i can handle a snowblower. I bet i doesnt know what a spark plug is... his blower is stock beleive me.


fair enough lol
maybe he got lucky and his is 3800
and you are 3400
that would do it
1st thing i do is check my machines and set them right


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

northeast said:


> They will throw it a mile if you are willing to let it work at an old mans pace. No disrespect intended to any members. These machine are very slow and underwhelming in stock form.


I am sure the bigger jet increases throughput, but they throw it a mile regardless of jet size.


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## northeast (Dec 29, 2017)

Is the second machine in this video throwing snow a mile? Honda should be embarrassed and I can’t believe Marlow would defend the abysmal performance of the non modified machine. If this video does not provide the proof people need that the clogging is in the jetting then nothing will.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Just installed my new tachometer and jet in the HSS1332. I'll post all the details in the re-jetting thread, but for reference my original RPMs with the stock 102 _.0402 _jet were:

Idle = 2120 RPM
Max Throttle = 3460 RPM

There was some surging throughout the range of RPMs. Ambient temperature was 34 degrees F.

I increased the Max Throttle to 3650 RPM, and the engine was surging over a 400 RPM range. Added about 1/2 choke to smooth it out.

Installed the new 110 _.0433_ jet and it was smooth from 2120 to 3650 RPM with no surging and no choke required. Max RPM consistent.


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## Marlow (Dec 17, 2016)

northeast said:


> Is the second machine in this video throwing snow a mile? Honda should be embarrassed and I can’t believe Marlow would defend the abysmal performance of the non modified machine. If this video does not provide the proof people need that the clogging is in the jetting then nothing will.


Max throwing distance is the same regardless of jet size. If you were to slow down with the stock jet so as to avoid engine lugging, you would get the same throwing distance - but yes as I already said decreased throughput. 

You must be reading what I said wrong. I in no way shape or form said the bigger jet doesn't perform better.


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## northeast (Dec 29, 2017)

Ok fair enough.


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

drmerdp said:


> The future of small engine emissions compliance.
> 
> https://www.nettinc.com/honda/honda-small-engine-exhaust-catalytic-converter.html


great, honda mufflers are already 50-100 new


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

Ok. Before I changed the oil this morning, I removed the air cleaner cover and silencer nose (shop manual terminology) to up my rpm from 3250 to 3750. On removing the silencer nose, I heard what sounded like a bolt that dropped on the top of the engine. Looked around. Didn’t see anything. Adjusted the rpm with engine running by loosening up on governor stop screw. I do wonder if that thing can vibrate out of adjustment from engine vibration as it did seem quite loose. Checked the shop manual over for parts and found a bushing (Air Cleaner Collar B) that was missing. After a short search with my shop light, I found, not only the collar but also the rubber cone plug that had popped out of the unused breather port (all this is found on page 6-4 in the shop manual). Pushed the plug in no problem, but it took a good 15 minutes to figure out how to line up that collar to push the silencer nose back down. Finally got it. Changed the oil, which definitely looked as though it needed changing at 18.6 hours. Took her out to blow snow and....what a difference! With the higher rpm, she eats through snow much easier without hesitation. And I haven’t even replaced the main jet yet. Throwing distance seems to have improved as well, not that it was bad before! Below are 2 shots from the shop manual in reference to the collar and plug.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

csonni said:


> Ok. Before I changed the oil this morning, I removed the air cleaner cover and silencer nose (shop manual terminology) to up my rpm from 3250 to 3750. On removing the silencer nose, I heard what sounded like a bolt that dropped on the top of the engine. Looked around. Didn’t see anything. Adjusted the rpm with engine running by loosening up on governor stop screw. I do wonder if that thing can vibrate out of adjustment from engine vibration as it did seem quite loose. Checked the shop manual over for parts and found a bushing (Air Cleaner Collar B) that was missing. After a short search with my shop light, I found, not only the collar but also the rubber cone plug that had popped out of the unused breather port (all this is found on page 6-4 in the shop manual). Pushed the plug in no problem, but it took a good 15 minutes to figure out how to line up that collar to push the silencer nose back down. Finally got it. Changed the oil, which definitely looked as though it needed changing at 18.6 hours. Took her out to blow snow and....what a difference! With the higher rpm, she eats through snow much easier without hesitation. And I haven’t even replaced the main jet yet. Throwing distance seems to have improved as well, not that it was bad before!


you just picked up 120 impeller rpm give or take huge impact good for you
impeller rpm= throw distance
high engine torque= he ability to handle deep wet snow
combine the 2 add and impeller kit in ariens case or the tighter stock honda better design and you get a beast


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

I had fun with Air Cleaner Collar B as well... Took me about five minutes to get it lined up correctly with much adjusting of the "Silencer Nose". I ran my tachometer cable in through the choke cable grommet, so lots of tweaking to get everything dressed properly while getting that [email protected]#$%^&* collar to go in all the way. You definitely need to do that fastener first before the shoulder bolt on the back of the engine. At least I'm pretty sure I'll never have to take it off again - I'll just use the hole in the rear of the "nose" to reach the RPM stop screw if necessary.

When you do your jet, just remove the bottom cover ("Air Guide" shown on the left in your second diagram). When I removed mine, the Lower Shroud Bolt (shown above it) came off too, along with the Shroud. Had to LocTite it back into the block, because the Air Guide nut had more tension on it than the stud threads did.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

It’s a little tricky but a nice long #2 Phillips does the trick without removing anything.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

drmerdp said:


> It’s a little tricky but a nice long #2 Phillips does the trick without removing anything.


What’s the trick? Trying to maneuver the screwdriver into the hole?


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

csonni said:


> drmerdp said:
> 
> 
> > It’s a little tricky but a nice long #2 Phillips does the trick without removing anything.
> ...


I put the screwdriver in the hole. Shine the light and ballpark the screw driver close. Then finesse it a bit till I touch the screw and finally snug it in. 

Takes a little bit, but much quicker then removing the air cleaner.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

csonni said:


> What’s the trick? Trying to maneuver the screwdriver into the hole?


No, just getting/keeping the screwdriver tip in the hidden screw head while watching the tach and releasing/increasing the throttle pressure with your other hand until the Max Throttle stop matches your target RPM.

But DEFINITELY easier than removing/replacing that Nose piece!


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

tabora said:


> csonni said:
> 
> 
> > What’s the trick? Trying to maneuver the screwdriver into the hole?
> ...


A couple small adjustments until I hit the target.


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## csonni (Dec 26, 2017)

tabora said:


> No, just getting/keeping the screwdriver tip in the hidden screw head while watching the tach and releasing/increasing the throttle pressure with your other hand until the Max Throttle stop matches your target RPM.
> 
> But DEFINITELY easier than removing/replacing that Nose piece!


I would just do it alternately. Loosen the screw to increase, pull the screwdriver out, check the rpms and then readjust.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

csonni said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drmerdp* View Post
> _It’s a little tricky but a nice long #2 Phillips does the trick without removing anything._
> 
> What’s the trick? Trying to maneuver the screwdriver into the hole?


Hey, I'm not the one who said it was tricky... :icon-rolleyes: Was just trying to add a bit of levity (but forgot an emoji, I guess).:wink2:


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

Winky face changes everything. lol


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Feb 15, 2018 Honda OE muffler prices:

GX200 / HSS724: $18.73
GX270 / HSS928: $17.08
GX390 / HSS1332: $18.73

partspak.com

:smile2:


arienskids said:


> great, honda mufflers are already 50-100 new


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

In case this helps anyone, here are Pages 3-10 and 3-11 from the HSS928A/HSS1332A Shop Manual on Adjusting Throttle/Idle Speed.

I think I'll post this on the Re-jetting thread also.


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