# What do i have here exactly?



## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

So i had $65 burning a hole in my pocket so i figured I'd buy a 6th snowblower and got this There seem to be numbers stamped into the back of it on the trans cover. There arent visible numbers on or around the sticker on the business end. It seems to be a cast iron gear case. It seems pretty obvious that it was repowered by a 6hp. I'm guessing it came with a 10 hp because the auger is 32 inches wide. Does anyone have ideas about exactly what i have? 
Thanks


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

That is an Ariens 924 series machine, from the mid 1970's.
It would originally have had an 8HP Tecumseh engine.
They are often referred to as twin stick machines and are considered by many to be one of the best series of machines Ariens built.

This is a great site for more information on your machine.


The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.


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## Northeast Dave (Apr 29, 2020)

What you have right there is a lot of decisions to make...


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I've installed those Briggs Intek 205cc engines on a few snowblowers and they are perfectly fine for 21"-24" machines, but man, I would not have paired a 32" unit with that engine.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

The earlier 924 series 32" units had chrome handlebars, so maybe a 924013? Also, can you show us some extra photos of its chute crank setup? It looks like it's been moved over to the right side.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The chute crank mech has definitely been moved to the right side, also interesting discs in place of the standard skid shoes.
If I had to guess a year, I would say it is a 1974 model.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

New tires and a Predator 420 or bigger would be nice on it.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

Discs appear to be ...... I don't know. Wheels off one of those old lady grocery carts?


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Thanks for the replies. Here a re more pics. 
I suspected 70s but of course wasnt sure. Whoever did the mod for the crank did a good job. But i don't see how it would have attached on the left either. And the rollers wheels for shoes seem like they would last forever since the don't drag and scrape away. 
when the temps drop a little I'll spend some time out there and open it up. I'm not sure yet if i will keep this one or not. I repowered a 70s John Deere 826 last year and wanted to freshen it up a bit and keep it. But I'll admit this one may not go away just cuz it's so damn cool. And the 420 predator would probably be a good fit for this 32 inch auger. I almost cant wait for snow to see what it does with this motor before swapping....just out of curiosity. It starts on one pull so it will be a good motor should i need a 6hp for anything else.

I'm definitely a fan of these older units. Built like tanks.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

A couple questions after some moderate searching. 
1. How easy or difficult will it really be to find parts if i decide to go thru and completely freshen this thing up? 
2. So what year did the chrome handlebars go away?
3. The 420 predator was mentioned. Any other motors that are highly recommended for this size blower? 
Thanks


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Skids, belts, bearings, friction disc and cutting edge, etc. can still be had easily. I never have an issue finding wear items.

You will find those lawn tires are not up for snow duty, that's why back before they produced good snow XTrac tires like all the machines have today, they sold you the bouncing betty chains that vibrate the machine apart.

I have restored many older Ariens, and sold a few of the 924 series ... I still own a couple 10000 series ... great machines ... you don't see that kind of quality in today's plastic and tin units.

A 32-inch bucket is way overkill for any of the driveways I do ... Even my 30-inch Cubs will be up for sale in the future.

I would think a 357cc, like on one of my 30-inch Cub, or at least an 11HP, like on the other 30-inch would suffice.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

The turf tires were obviously something i noticed right away when the guy wheeled it around the corner of the house. Found these online so if i get everything else working well enough I'll get a pair. For $25 each i can't go wrong. Good to hear about wear items. The machine doesn't move under power but it's too hot outside to be out there messing with it and I'm in the middle of a bathroom gut and remodel anyway so I'll start working on this and my others in the collection after that. I have a lawn tractor to work on as well. It's gonna be a busy Autumn for me. Haha. 

What is that button on the left wheel do exactly? Is that a positrac thing like the star on the john deere blowers? I should look for a manual online. So I'll do that next.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

X-trac over snow hog if possible


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

"What is that button on the left wheel do exactly? Is that a posi-trac thing .." 

Yes ...

Be careful, as those are larger tires .... you probably want to stick with the 16x6.50-8 size that are on there now, as that is the size that probably came with it.

Yeah, I would agree, XTrac over Sno-Hog if you can get a pair for not much more.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Attached is a copy of the owners manual for your machine.
Should help with servicing and part #'s.
It is common to find the axle bushings and impeller bearing and some times auger bushings require replacement after almost 50 years of use. These items are readily available.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

Mjk1210 said:


> .
> .
> .
> What is that button on the left wheel do exactly? Is that a positrac thing like the star on the john deere blowers? I should look for a manual online. So I'll do that


I wouldn't consider it "positrac" since that typically imples some form of limited slip diff . . . What these old Ariens had was an open diff that did well in modest conditions, and with that knob, you turned it and pushed it in to lo the differential for use when conditions got bad (with the corresponding loss of ease of turning).


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## Andreas (9 mo ago)

Nice gem… Looks like they relocated the chute crank. Originally there was a welded bracket on the opposite side of the chute, in the area of rust there it looks like its been cut off. But the new setup looks good! The chrome handlebars were replaced in 1980, where the engine went from white to black, and handlebars from chrome to black tubing. On my -83 924 I always use snow chains when blowing snow, so the «turf tires» works great.

To find exact year, look at the engine. On the top of the Tecumseh engine you‘ll find the engine serial number. It’s on the forward part of the flat portion over the recoil starter. It’ll start with HM80, and the 5 last digits state time of production. My engine ended with 2307D, that means «year 2, day 307». As the engine was produced late year 2 (1972/1982/1992/2002) and the s/n stated 80’s machine, I concluded that the machine was fitted with the engine in 1983. As your machine is white, your engine is produced in 197x.

EDIT: Looks like you are missing the engine covers with the serial number on your machine though…


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The original Tecumseh engine has been replaced with a newer OHV 6HP engine.
I think the last year for the chrome handle bars was 74 or75.


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## Andreas (9 mo ago)

Yes you are correct, after -75ish the handlebars got white up to 1979


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Thanks for all the info guys! Appreciate it.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Hey guys. I started tearing into this machine to see what needs work. So far i am very impreased with this monster of a snowblower. I swear the lug bolts for the wheels are abiut as big as the ones on my boat trailer! Lots of big steel on this thing. 

One question i have is regarding an auger brake. I noticed when running that the auger never really stopped completely even when disengaged. And now that it's torn apart i dont see any provisions for an auger brake.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

On some of the older units, it was the belt guides on the sides of the crank sheave that kept the belt off the sheave, thus preventing loose slap motion from powering the auger in disengaged position. It's the newer units with the little brake pad assembly that kicks in when the auger handle lever is released.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Well crap. I bet when the person that did this engine swap took the old motor off they failed to swap the belt guides. Probably while not realizing the issue they would cause. 

I'll check the manual but if you or anyone has a pic of the guides that might be missing i would appreciate it but i will see what i can figure out for making one or more and bolting them to the engine. I have some ideas.


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## Andreas (9 mo ago)

You sure that you don't just have too short belt? This is what it looks like on my old 824 when auger engaged, and if I disengage, the lower tension wheel pulls away so that the belt drive just rotates without friction, and has no need for a brake. I imagine that if the belt is too short there will still be some tension on the belt with the tension wheel pulled, but as it is spring loaded you won't feel a difference when engaged.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yes, many people doing engine swaps don't entirely understand the dynamics of those belt guides and their purpose ... also changing engines in many circumstances require a different size belt than would have originally been used, for an assortment of reasons, i.e. distance of travel, placement of crank shaft, size of pulley, etc., .....


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Oneacer said:


> Yes, many people doing engine swaps don't entirely understand the dynamics of those belt guides and their purpose ... also changing engines in many circumstances require a different size belt than would have originally been used, for an assortment of reasons, i.e. distance of travel, placement of crank shaft, size of pulley, etc., .....


I figured it out kinda quick on mine luckily.
Just needed to give the belt a little encouragement in a few directions and then the clutch worked.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Many times, you can take a long eye bolt and bend it and bolt it to the block.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Cool guys. Thanks. Ya i see that one belt guide over the pulley in a U shape is useful. I think i can fashion something up to stop the belt slap. Ive got the engine off and all the main components taken off. 
Auger bearing needs replacement along with belts. I'm contemplating a predator 420 but haven't decided to spend the money yet. I may put it all together sans engine for a short while.

I'm definitely appreciating the blower. The modern day stuff just doesnt compare in any way to the machines like this. The more i tinker and clean / paint etc the more I'm tempted to keep it as a prize for myself.

Andreas, the belt may be too long instead of too short. It has that belt slap on the crank pulley that was mentioned earlier.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Mjk1210 said:


> Cool guys. Thanks. Ya i see that one belt guide over the pulley in a U shape is useful. I think i can fashion something up to stop the belt slap. Ive got the engine off and all the main components taken off.
> Auger bearing needs replacement along with belts. I'm contemplating a predator 420 but haven't decided to spend the money yet. I may put it all together sans engine for a short while.
> 
> I'm definitely appreciating the blower. The modern day stuff just doesnt compare in any way to the machines like this. The more i tinker and clean / paint etc the more I'm tempted to keep it as a prize for myself.
> ...



I'm sure a lot of the modern day stuff is better than what you have.
You're just not comparing apples to apples. You can't compare what would've been a $2000 machine today to a $600 one today and expect them to be the same.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

I think i found a donor motor and tires. Just picked up this thing for $60. 
The blower drive stuff has issues and the guy jist wanted to get rid of it. Motor fires right up. 
Just need to paint some white where the yellow is. And probably get different belts than the originals i ordered which probably were too hig for that intek 6hp that was on it anyway.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

don't be shy, show us some pictures of this $60 bad boy donor.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)




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## Andreas (9 mo ago)

13hp! Now we’re talking!! But drive issues, probably just worn drive plate. Easy to fix, and then you have two!


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

That yard man looks an awful lot like the White / MTD my dad used to have but his was only 10hp


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I would repair it and put that Yardman back in service ... looks to be in great shape, just needs a good cleaning. I have brought way worse that back to great condition.....


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Originally i considered doing that and then taking the money to buy a predator 420 and tbe tires i want. However, the guy i boight it from was very forthcoming about the problems in the drive train and the obsolete parts. And to be honest the thing is so huge i really don't want to risk hurting my back moging it around. It is VERY HEAVY. so on the way home i figured that my best bet was to use the engine and the tires. New tires like that are almost $50 each plus shipping so no matter how i slice it i come out ahead. Tore it down into manageable pieces last night. The ariens is gettijg final paint today....hopefully. the real shame is that i didjt expect to have the tires and was just gonna make due this year with those turf tires so those freshly painted rims will need touching up. Oh well


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

If you're going to be working on machines, ... a mini tire changer is a necessity. All the older units came with the grass turf tires, as back then they were not manufacturing XTrac snow tires, although my vintage YardMan had Chevron tread, which worked great till I wore them out.

I usually pick up new tires cheap or free, just keep your feelers out.

Shame on that YardMan, has zero turn tabs as well ... nice unit.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

One of the (minor) issues i see coming will be the belt cover. Appears the pulley on the crank is taller than the original by about an inch so any thoughts on the best way to extend the one that came on the 924024? I am sure somebody out there had this problem before.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I paint my Ariens rims white, gives a nice contrast, and that is how they came from the factory.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

The guy i got the yard man said those zero turn tabs never worked well either. Maybe he got a bad unit but he stated that it helped it turn but without input from him it did about a 10ft radius of a turn. Far from zero turn. FYI.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Oh really? White you say? These were a mix of orange and gray so i assumed orange. Well the wire wheel has life and I'd prefer to do original colors where possible. I'll clean them up and repaint after swapping tires. 

I was looking at the mini tire changer at harbor freight last night. I'll prpbably go get one. I heave more small tires to do soon so it will be a good tool to have. Thanks for the input


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I have fabricated a few belt covers from sheet metal and rivets on the machines with missing covers.. ... just make sure if you do that, you crimp the edges for rigidity, as well as creases if needed. Or just build extensions on the existing cover if you still have it if that works for you. Prime and paint the engine cover and your all set. Here is one examlpe on an Ariens I sold.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Strange, I have that same zero-turn system on both my Cub Cadets, and they work flawlessly. I am sure that one needs an adjustment ...

Yeah, back then, on the older Ariens, the rims were actually an ivory white. The platinum gray came in the newer units. I personally always liked the white. Although, the Cub Cadet yellow units, of which I am restoring one at the moment, have a nice cream color on their rims, they were rusted badly, but cleaned up and came out good. I don't ever recall orange rims on an Ariens.

You're going to love the mini tire changer, just takes a little learning curve, and use it while it's in a warm setting, and also in the winter or cooler weather, applying light heat to the tire prior to installing will assist you. Also make sure you have some good tire lube on hand. Also, good to have some stubby valve stems on hand just in case, along with the stem puller.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Mjk1210 said:


> One of the (minor) issues i see coming will be the belt cover. Appears the pulley on the crank is taller than the original by about an inch so any thoughts on the best way to extend the one that came on the 924024? I am sure somebody out there had this problem before.


You'll want the belt cover risers that raise the height by about an inch. Here's the post that has the part numbers:









Ariens ST1032 Engine Replacement


I have an Ariens ST1032, Model 924084, s/n 101396 with a Tecumseh HMSK100 - 159119V 10HP engine. Can someone recommend a replacement engine that has the correct mounting bolt pattern, and shaft diameter/length? It seems this engine for this snowblower is no longer available. I've heard about...




www.snowblowerforum.com





A fellow member, @Shaw351, made a few sets a while back, and I now have one of his sets on my GX390-equipped 924040 which is in my sig. Here's how the risers work to raise the stock belt cover:


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Cool. Those belt cover risers might be the ticket. I may try to make my own version of those but we will see. I dont have the tools or skills to make the whole thing. That's for sure. I'm kinda a newb to all this but always been handy and creative. Typical pollock. 
Harbor Freight had the portable ture changer but was out of the mini. Says it will do 8 inch tires and bigger. I'm just not sure how it would work for any of the small diameter axle type wheels. Or if the mini would even do those. I mean like the 1 inch axles or smaller. How would i secure the wheel to it? Hmmmm.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Stick with the mini ... wait till they get it back in, or can you ship to store for free?


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

If I was going to go through the trouble of painting a machine I'd pull all of the bearings etc out and clean it completely.
Then repack and or replace the bearings as necessary.

On my machine I only painted what I had to to keep the salt from destroying it. The rest stayed dirty and warn.
In my case both ball bearings on the wheel axle were shot.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

I took out and replaced the auger bearing. Doesn't seem like the axle bearings are bad enough to replace. And theymove really slowly so not as much of an issue should they fail on me later. I did considered it though. Today was a great painting day. 75 and sunny. Tried to get atarted as soon as the dew was evaporating and used the sun to bake as much as i could. Making progress though. Oh. And i found another use for my bass boat. (Snowblower assembly staging area)

Of course i saw your reply about the tire changer long after you posted it. But since they are 5 minutes away and i can return it if it doesnt work i bought the portable one. I kinda couldn't resist for $39. I have a boat trailer and other crap i can use it for too. So not a total waste. It worked. The bead on one of those turf tires was SUPER hard to break. But i got it. 
For the smaller axle wheels from the yardman i drove a stake thru the wheel and used that as a fulcrum to get the tires off. Those were easy because they arent 50 years old. Hahaha


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

The paint work looks great, can't wait to see it all back together.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Looks to be coming along nicely 👍


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Thanks. I already have the auger back in the housing. I didn't get a pic yet but I'll get one in the morning. The auger and impeller spins BUTTER SMOOTH and quiet with that new bearing and everything all greased up nicely. 

I was so frustrated tho because the auger is a tight fit end to end in the housing and, of course, it knicked a couple spots in the housing sides as it went in. Nothing too bad. I was going slow. But it aint perfect anymore. Sigh. 

I just try to remember that I'm working in the garage and yard. Not in a factory. Otherwise i couldnt forgive myself. Lol.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Next time you remove an Auger and want to protect the bucket, just tape something like a cookie pastry rolling mat (cheap at Wal-Mart or dollar store) or any thin piece of plastic to the inside of the auger.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Good idea. And i know better...Usually anyway. I have a thousand things i could have used. I was taking my time so i thought i could work some magic, but, no.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Roll up slippery hmwpe or teflon....hmmmm


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

In a pinch some cardboard... looking great. 👍


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@mjk,

Is that a larger tire changer with the small tire loosely on it?

The mini tire changer is meant especially for these smaller rims, and securely mount them for easy tire assembly/dis-assembly.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

It is the larger "portable" tire changer and i probably took the picture after loosening the stuff that holds it tight. It worked well. 

Decided i better take advantage of the last day in the 70s for a while and took apart the engine to paint it. I also fixed tbe kill switch connection to the throttle and key. It was nothing a little jb weld couldn't handle. 

Tinkered more with the assembly in general as well and got the scraper bar i made put on. And some universal skid shoes. I actuallyliked the idea of those wheels the guy welded to the old shoes. I painted them a gloss black too and they looked good. But I'll use them elsewhere. 

I found that i didnt get good coverage on the bottom of the chute so i need to run out to get more paint since this is the day to do it (weather wise).


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Ok. Next problem. 
When it was apart i noticed that the drive pulley had eaten into the shaft that hold the auger tensioner wheel. I assumed it was just adjusted incorrectly for a long time and that's why. But now im tryinf to adjust it and since the stick locks into position for in and out i cant seem to adjust it any way that it doesnt touch the drive pulley. What am i missing here? The grey is jb weld that i used to fill the voids left by the pulley in the past.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Ive been looking at the manual and it seems as tho I'm missing the right handle trigger. ?? ...and instead the auger control was connected directly to the stick. But this seems to provide too much throw and pushes that rod into the drive pulley. 
I cant tell what the stick would have been connected to originally though and the manual from the 70s didnt have the best graphics.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

On that particular unit, I have had the rod that holds the idler wears inside its pivot bracket at the front of the body panel .... it's a bit fiddley to get at it for repair...... on one, I just installed a spring to hold tension on the idler to keep it in line while operating. Worked well.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Gotcha. I had thought perhaps the original drive pulley was swapped with a bigger one. Seemed unlikely but i took a look. All seemed original to me. I'm stiill at a loss for why the endpoints are so far off but i have an idea with some threaded rod, a turnbuckle, some nylock nuts and some springs to allow for the auger stick to be locked in either place and I'll have adjustable tension at the endpoints against the pulley. 

I got the engine on today. Was just going to test fit but eventually that led to succesfully drilling new mounting holes and getting the bolts started into the block. 
I moved the position of the auger pulley a bit on the shaft (compared to before i disassembled it) and all lines up well with the pulley that came on the 13hp crank. So that's one less thing to think about. Finished the day going to tractor supply for some belts and what doesnt work I'll return to the store. I'll try to get the belts on tomorrow though.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

NIce .... see how nice those rims look now  .. great job. Those twin stick are nice; I sold a couple in the past.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Looks fantastic, great job on the paint.
Nice touch painting the 13HP covers white, looks like it could have left the factory with that OHV Tecumseh now.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Thank you.

Yes! They do look pretty good in white. . I have to say that it's a bit frustrating having anything white though. It instantly shows any dirt, grease etc as i am putting it together. I have to touch it and i CAN'T because my hands are dirty after about 6 seconds of work. Lol. 
For that reason only i might do black if i do another one. 

I'm going to order some stickers and that should complete the project after the belts and mechanical part for the auger engagement. I would really love to know what changed from when it left the factory to make the auger engagement make that arm hit the drive pulley. Some day i might figure it out if i see another machine or two like this. 

Thanks a ton for all the input so far guys. That extra knowledge and encouragement goes a long way.


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## Andreas (9 mo ago)

I bought a lot of decals from Vintage Reproductions to my old Ariens ST824. They really do look the part!


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

It only took about 46 tries with various belts to finally decide the proper length for each. That meant unbolting and bolting the 2 halves of this beast and lowering down the handel bars 46 times. Along with loosening and tightening the auger idler pulley arm as well to get the drive belt to sneak past it . 
Finally decided that 35 inch drive and 38 inch auger were both the perfect fits 

And guess what? Dont ask me why "i cant quite figure out the physics of it but the auger idelr pulley arm doesnt hit the drive pulley when the belts are on and the auger is engaged. I guess someone had a much too long belt or no auger belt for a very long time and the pulley wore those grooves into it. 
But hey! It works. Exactly like its supposed to. The pulley guides i made worked great. Bent some eye bolts and then ground off the threads. Positioned just out of the way from the auger belt when engaged it catches the belt when disengaged and keeps it from moving which means no ghost auger. I added a third on the bottom right and it made the biggest difference due to it's location. 

Stickers are ordered and last thing to do is the pulley cover . Not sure what I'll do hut it needs to be bigger in a couple dimensions thanks to how far back i mounted the motor. Now i see i was probably an inch too far back. No biggie. I'll figure something out.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

That's pretty cool that you were able to reuse the factory pulleys from the Yard-Man. How large is the diameter of that Yard-Man's auger pulley?

Also, does the belt cover fit, or do you still need to raise it?


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

If you mean the one on the crank then its 3 1/4 inches. If you mean the larger pulleys i did not use them from the yardman. I tried to swap one the drive pulley but the offset was different. All that was alao a waste of time because of the miracle of the idler pulley arm magically not hitting the drive pulley now that a belt is on. 
I probably wasted a good day of time looking at that over the past week. Hahaha. Oh well. Now i know.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

yup, i meant the auger pulley on the crank. that's an upgrade as the the typical 7-8 hp Ariens 924 series snowblowers came with a 2.75" pulley for the auger belt, so you should be getting a nice RPM increase at the augers.


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## badbmwbrad (Jul 30, 2019)

Thats a kick-ass machine you're building up. With the larger crankshaft pulley and a powerful engine, that beast will hurl snow high and far.


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## Andreas (9 mo ago)

db130 said:


> yup, i meant the auger pulley on the crank. that's an upgrade as the the typical 7-8 hp Ariens 924 series snowblowers came with a 2.75" pulley for the auger belt, so you should be getting a nice RPM increase at the augers.


That is an interesting fact… You dont have any info of larger pulleys that are a direct fit on the stock crankshaft? (Tecumseh)


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Andreas said:


> That is an interesting fact… You dont have any info of larger pulleys that are a direct fit on the stock crankshaft? (Tecumseh)


I sure do. But, I don't want to derail this thread, Check out my 1976 924026 build that's in my signature. It shows a 3" Bolens pulley being fitted:










As I recall, you installed a 10hp Tecumseh on your snowblower with a 1" shaft, that Bolens pulley would work nicely.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Oneacer said:


> NIce .... see how nice those rims look now  .. great job. Those twin stick are nice; I sold a couple in the past.


Funny, i was looking at the ariens website last night and they paint the wheels black now. Don't worry. I won't do that on this machine.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I painted rims black once on a Toro, never again ... just doesn't look right ... I like some contrast ... 

On restores, I usually use white, cream, gun metal grey, or of course, JD yellow.


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Hey guys...back to the topic of the pulleys. So that Yardman i stole the engine and tires from has an aguer pulley i could also steal for this Ariens. It's a bit smaller so maybe some of you with more experience or engineeering math skills can tell me if it's a good idea, bad idea or what? I would be willing to take it back apart a little to swap the pulley and change the belt again if this change was something that would 1. Be Safe and 2. Provide enough of an improvement to the snow throwing capabilty without risk damaging the bearings and auger gears. (Dont want them spinning too fast).

Original auger gear is 9.5 inches. Yardman is 7.5. 

Remember my auger pulley on the crank is already bigger by 1/2 inch.

Let me know what you think?

Thanks


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Take a look at this thread here: Impeller speed.

Remember impeller rpm = engine rpm x engine pulley diameter / impeller pulley diameter.

So... stock specs would be 3600 x 2.75 / 9.5 = 1042 rpm

Current specs with the larger 3.25 pulley while retaining the original 9.5" impeller pulley would be 3600 x 3.25 / 9.5 = 1231 rpm

Your proposed specs with the larger 3.25 pulley _and_ the smaller impeller pulley would be 3600 x 3.25 / 7.5 = 1560 rpm

We're talking about a 50% increase in impeller speed to go from 1042 rpm to 1560. That seems like a big jump.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

1320 with the 2.75 and the 7.5?


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

I agree that is a big jump. Ill just leave it alone. Thanks for the math refresher!


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## Mjk1210 (11 mo ago)

Well. I got the stickers i ordered today. And yesterday i took the yardman pulley cover and a heat gun, cut the old pulley cover for a riser on one side and made a (probably temporary) pulley cover. It does the job. I dont have any sheet metal skills yet so wgen i learn than i may attempt a better version. 

Overall I'm happy with it even with some of my amatuer mistakes in paint here and there. . I may post it for sale for some ridiculous amount until i decide to use it and see what happens. I'll always have the photos i guess. 

Thanks to everyone for chiming























































eems i now have an affliction for snowblowers. I picked up a smaller version last weekend that i am going through now. And i want to do the same to my john deere 826 i picked up and used last year. Between the 826 and this 1332 i just finished there isnt a storm that could keep me from exiting my driveway here in Northwest Indiana. Hahaha.


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