# SJ905 gas Snoe Joe friction wheel replacement.



## Honeymonkey (Feb 22, 2015)

Just wondering if anyone has replaced the friction wheel on this model. I have the complete part ( has the wheel and the part that connects to the finger maybe called a pivot rod that moves the friction wheel to select speeds/reverse right or left across the drive plate

This friction wheel is on its own shaft that is bolted to either side of the frame, and has a gear at one end that meshes with the larger gear that moves the tires. The "finger" that is attached to the speed select/rev cables fits into a slot on the Friction wheel assembly.

My question is, after I tip the blower on end, remove the access plate, how do I slide this friction wheel assembly off the shaft?

I can get at the bolts on either side of the frame without removing the tires . Is it as simple as removing these bolts, tipping the shaft to remove the finger from the hole on the friction wheel assembly and sliding off the old and slide on the new? Am I going to run into any clips or parts falling off in a bad way?

As you can tell, I am not a mechanic, but have fixed many things with guidance.

Thanks,
HM


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)




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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Welcome, and to be honest most here are probably unfamiliar with that machine. I think you maybe on the right track, but if you could post some pics up of the machine, and the area in question, folks may be able to give you guidance easier. 

My experience with other makes, is that it has always been easier to remove one of the wheels, the retaining bolts, and slide the shaft out to replace it. Keep in mind, that there may be bearings that might prevent an easy egress of said shaft.


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## DANMAN (Feb 15, 2015)

Often the friction disk is a split hub. you can buy the rubber donut on ebay for 7 bucks

last time i did my mtd blower it took 45 minutes

i didnt remove the shaft the entire way out ...just one end ..the end without gears


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## Honeymonkey (Feb 22, 2015)

db9938 said:


> Welcome, and to be honest most here are probably unfamiliar with that machine. I think you maybe on the right track, but if you could post some pics up of the machine, and the area in question, folks may be able to give you guidance easier.
> 
> My experience with other makes, is that it has always been easier to remove one of the wheels, the retaining bolts, and slide the shaft out to replace it. Keep in mind, that there may be bearings that might prevent an easy egress of said shaft.


Well the weather is warm so I am back at it. The Mtd video looks spot on so thanks for all the replies. 
I popped off both wheels and removed the nuts at the end of the shaft on the wheel side of the frame. The shaft is really stuck in there, so before I go much further, I am taking your sugestion and attaching some pics for your viewing pleasure. I am a little leary of messing with the berrings in case I have to remove some retaining clips somewhere as the shaft does not slide out easy like in the video (cant seem to upload more than one photo at a time )
Do I need to unscrew the shaft from this hole first from the inside before it can be tilted out?


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## Honeymonkey (Feb 22, 2015)

This is the other side


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## Honeymonkey (Feb 22, 2015)

And the inside. Oh, and I do have the whole friction wheel assembly as I ordered a replacement shortly after buying it...was just thinking ahead.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I haven't done one so this is just from what I can "see" in the picture.

From the looks of the shaft it should slide to the right once you've loosened the gear. You will likely have to remove the "C" clip on the right side bearing (outside) as the bearing will likely have to come out with the shaft.

I would spray both sides down with PB Blaster and try to gently smack it with a hammer trying to get it to start moving to the right.


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

Snap a photo here and there as you take it apart, then refer to them when putting it back together.. always helps me if first time


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## Honeymonkey (Feb 22, 2015)

What is the best way to get these C clips off with every day tools? i tried to gently push on the split area to see if I could get the center to pop high enough to get the needle nose on them, but it just bent, and do you need something special to get them back on?

Do these berings come apart (inner ring from the outer) as they appear to be a unit. I would hate to have to drive 60 miles for a replacement clip lol

Once I get past this part, it seems straight forward, but mine comes apart different from the MTD video, closer to a club cadet I think.

This is the right berring you are speaking of right?
At this point I am stumped how to remove this shaft.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

43128 said:


> Amazon.com : Snow Joe Pro SJ905 24-Inch 179cc Gas Powered Two Stage Snow Thrower With Electric Start (Discontinued by Manufacturer) : Patio, Lawn & Garden
> 
> looks like an mtd built machine


Its not a MTD, its one of the 100% made in China machines:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...scussion/1364-made-usa-versus-made-china.html

it has no relation to any US snowblower brand, and probably no parts compatibility.

Scot


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That would be the right side. Just like with a car, side is determined from being in an operating position.

There isn't an everyday tool that's a good match. You might try two screwdrivers back to back so you are leveraging them against each other. You just need to get one end of the C clip up onto the bearing and then you should be able to walk it around out of the retaining groove. Getting it back in is easier.


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## Honeymonkey (Feb 22, 2015)

sscotsman said:


> Its not a MTD, its one of the 100% made in China machines:
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...scussion/1364-made-usa-versus-made-china.html
> 
> ...


Snow Joe is still selling out of walmart in Canada and the USA. I bought it at Walmart Canada 5 years ago, but Snow Joe stopped selling the Gas models and just sell electric now. The parts do look like Cub Cadet of that era. When I bought it, the tech at Snow Joe said the engines were from China and they were assembled in the USA.


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## Honeymonkey (Feb 22, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> That would be the right side. Just like with a car, side is determined from being in an operating position.
> 
> There isn't an everyday tool that's a good match. You might try two screwdrivers back to back so you are leveraging them against each other. You just need to get one end of the C clip up onto the bearing and then you should be able to walk it around out of the retaining groove. Getting it back in is easier.


Thanks for the tip. It worked as you said and I removed the clips on both sides .I sprayed both berrings and let it sit for a bit. Put the nut on the right side to protect the threads, gave it a few good wacks. Nothing seems to move either way. I am scared to hit it too hard. I expected that berring on the left to pop out of the frame so I could tilt the shaft down.
Guess I am still stuck on this step
...HM


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Could there be a e-clip or cir-clip hidden behind the toothed side, inboard to the bearing? 

This would prevent the shaft from moving to the right. Of course, this would mean that the drive gear is smack dab in the way of removing it....

I did find that snow joe does carry some commonly needed parts, just no diagrams.

http://www.snowjoe.com/department/SJ906-Parts


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

sscotsman said:


> Its not a MTD, its one of the 100% made in China machines:
> 
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...scussion/1364-made-usa-versus-made-china.html
> 
> ...


didnt realize that. looks a heck of a lot like an mtd, maybe its an mtd clone. i figured something was up when i saw that friction wheel


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## Honeymonkey (Feb 22, 2015)

db9938 said:


> Could there be a e-clip or cir-clip hidden behind the toothed side, inboard to the bearing?
> 
> This would prevent the shaft from moving to the right. Of course, this would mean that the drive gear is smack dab in the way of removing it....
> 
> ...


Can't see any clips hiding. You think if I beat in the edges of the berring from the inside left of the frame instead of pounding on the right berring nut, I could make it detach from the left frame hole? I would hate to damage the center of the berring. I just don't know how much abuse they can take


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