# Auger Shaft Spacer how to replace



## Chuck2

How do I go about replacing this black plastic spacer on the auger shaft of my Craftsman (247.88830) ? Shown in pic with hose clamp around it.


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## UNDERTAKER

unbolt the side plate pull off the auger. polish up the shaft with 320 grit sand paper. yank it out put the new one in. since you are already dirty you might as well do the other side too. I would also check them seals on the gear box. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP!!! MAHALO


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## Shryp

This is very easy. Shouldn't take more than about 2 minutes... *sarcasm*

Remove the clip holding the chute crank on and slide that out of the way.
Remove the belt cover.
Unhook the belt.
Unhook the spring from the idler pulley and handle that tightens the belt.
(I pulled mine off after separating the scoop and drive sections.)
Remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the front scoop to the drive section.
Tilt the handles back and lift the scoop out of the pivot.
Tip the front scoop section flat on the ground and remove the bolt holding the large pulley on.
(I used an axe handle through the chute to hold the impeller.)
Remove the 2 screws on each side of the augers.
Slide the whole gearbox assembly out the front.
Remove the shear pins and slide everything off the side as needed.

If you happen to remove the augers on both sides don't mix them up.


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## Chuck2

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> unbolt the side plate pull off the auger. polish up the shaft with 320 grit sand paper. yank it out put the new one in. since you are already dirty you might as well do the other side too. I would also check them seals on the gear box. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP!!! MAHALO


What would be the reason for polishing the shaft?


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## dbert

I'm just curious. What do these spacers do? Is it just a filler? The auger is pinned to the shaft, so it's not going to move inward any. I guess it would make it easier to find the shear-pin holes if they sheared. Any real reason i'm not seeing?


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## Chuck2

Shryp said:


> This is very easy. Shouldn't take more than about 2 minutes... *sarcasm*
> 
> Remove the clip holding the chute crank on and slide that out of the way.
> Remove the belt cover.
> Unhook the belt.
> Unhook the spring from the idler pulley and handle that tightens the belt.
> (I pulled mine off after separating the scoop and drive sections.)
> Remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the front scoop to the drive section.
> Tilt the handles back and lift the scoop out of the pivot.
> Tip the front scoop section flat on the ground and remove the bolt holding the large pulley on.
> (I used an axe handle through the chute to hold the impeller.)
> Remove the 2 screws on each side of the augers.
> Slide the whole gearbox assembly out the front.
> Remove the shear pins and slide everything off the side as needed.
> 
> If you happen to remove the augers on both sides don't mix them up.


Still need to do this. Kinda nervous about taking it this much apart. Maybe you could tell me more about doing this such as - 
Is it really as straight forward as you make it sound? 
Is reassembly difficult?
What could happen if it's not replaced?


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## Shryp

I think they are just there to keep the augers lined up in case you break a shear pin. I suppose the auger could slide over and get tangled on the gear box or something. Being as you have a new machine it should be pretty easy to do.


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## UNDERTAKER

Chuck2 said:


> What would be the reason for polishing the shaft?


 so you do not mess up the new seals when putting it all back together.


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## Chuck2

Oh. I should get new seals?


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## Chuck2

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> unbolt the side plate pull off the auger. polish up the shaft with 320 grit sand paper. yank it out put the new one in. since you are already dirty you might as well do the other side too. I would also check them seals on the gear box. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP!!! MAHALO


Can it really be done like this? It sure sounds easier than the other way.


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## UNDERTAKER

is the gearbox leaking?????????????


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## Chuck2

It is not leaking.


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## Normex

Just a suggestion follow what Shryp described to you as you will find out you won't be able to pull from the front only and yes get new seals. Good Luck


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## dbert

if you are looking for an easy fix, I would just leave it all intact and remove the broken plastic piece. It looks like the rough edges could damage the gearbox seal if you leave it, so if you decide not to replace it, at least remove it. If you ever need to replace a broken shear pin and you cant find the hole in the shaft, remember to slide the auger outward.

this is all contingent on it having no other purpose. I cant see any reason for it to be there.


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## Toro-8-2-4

Ok....if you want a lazy fix. 

1.Measure the shaft diameter.
2. find a 2 piece shaft collar of that diameter. Try McMaster Carr, Grainer, Zorro etc.
3. Cut the plastic spacer out.
4. install the split shaft collar up against the auger.

You can probably get an Aluminum one for around 10.


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## Big Ed

2 mins, Shryp?
It took me longer then that to read it.


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## Shryp

He doesn't need to mess with any seals to get to that bushing. Just pull the 'T' of the gearbox out and slide the augers off of one side and put it back together. No seals to damage. Also, this machine is only like 2 years old so it should come apart easily.


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## HCBPH

*Bushings*



Shryp said:


> He doesn't need to mess with any seals to get to that bushing. Just pull the 'T' of the gearbox out and slide the augers off of one side and put it back together. No seals to damage. Also, this machine is only like 2 years old so it should come apart easily.


 Do the end panels of the auger assembly unbolt or are they welded on (which I suspect they are). If they bolt on, unbolt them and go from the ends. If welded then you have to pull the augers along with the impeller to gain access to them.

From what little I can see, I suspect they are just some form of alignment bushing. If you know someone with metal working equipment, if feasible I'd see if you can get some bronze replacements made as they'll last a lot longer than plastic ones.


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## UNDERTAKER

I thought he said his seals were leaking also.


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## Chuck2

Well upon closer inspection today, I notice that the gear box is in deed leaking. But I wonder if not having the correct oil in it could cause that. Since I've been unable to find out what should be used, I've been using 3-in-1 oil. Maybe it's too thin ?

Any suggestions where I should get the seals from? I also want to get a spare set of cables.

What more do I have to do to replace the seals?


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## Shryp

Most likely it should have the MTD equivalent of a "00" grease.


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## Chuck2

HCBPH said:


> Do the end panels of the auger assembly unbolt or are they welded on (which I suspect they are). If they bolt on, unbolt them and go from the ends. If welded then you have to pull the augers along with the impeller to gain access to them.
> 
> From what little I can see, I suspect they are just some form of alignment bushing. If you know someone with metal working equipment, if feasible I'd see if you can get some bronze replacements made as they'll last a lot longer than plastic ones.


Thanks for the advice, HCBPH.

There are 2 bolts on the outside of the scoop on each side. The parts diagram shows it all coming out the front & not being welded. I'm figuring Shryp would know if it's welded or not.

Oh and the reason for replacing it isn't because it wore out. It's because the auger "found" the dogs leash while blowing last year.


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## Chuck2

Shryp said:


> Most likely it should have the MTD equivalent of a "00" grease.


If it's suppose to be a grease then maybe the seals aren't bad after all. Right?


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## Chuck2

But there is no zerk fitting only a blue plastic plug on top so I don't see how I could get grease in there.


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## Shryp

Look at the donyboy73 gearcase rebuild videos. He has a Noma and a Cub Cadet/MTD and they both just use a tube of grease that gets squeezed in when you are putting the 2 halves together.


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## Chuck2

Thanks, Shryp. I'm checking that out now.


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## HCBPH

*Gearcase lube*

I checked a couple of the manuals I have on some older Craftsman blowers. They list using 30 weight oil in the auger gear case. I've had to rebuild a couple in the past where the PO had used a heavy grease instead of oil. The grease stuck to the sides of the case and was not lubing the gears. If you plan to use a grease instead of oil, I'd use a mix of white grease and some oil so it's kind of a slurry so it will at least flow when it's cold outside (which is obvious when blowing snow).

If your manual lists something, that's what I'd use first. Just some thoughts.


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## Chuck2

Thanks for researching that for me, HCBPH. I appreciate that. 

My manual doesn't say anything about that. But obviously something should be in there. It has a small plastic plug on the top. So, I'm thinking it would be oil not grease. Seems to me that oil would do a better job of lubing things in there than grease would. 

So, now I need decide...do I replace the seals or not. It is leaking. But I'm thinking that could be due to there being the 3 to 1 oil that I put in there which is probably thinner than the motor oil that should be in there. Your thoughts.....


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## HCBPH

*Gearbox*

I did a little looking at a couple of newer machine manuals I have, here's what I think you're going to have to do to fix it.
2 bolts on either end of the housing are holding a bearing with a short sleeve on the ends of the auger rakes, they have to come off. The pulley has to come off then the whole thing should slide out. Then pull the pins, and if they aren't rusted on the rakes should come off the auger shaft. Now you can unbolt the auger gearcase halves and pull it apart. Watch the bushings and seals when taking it apart. Check them over and replacing them is now a good time. If you have to replace the seal or bushing on the impeller shaft, removing the roll pins and pulling the impeller was easier for me. Take pictures as you go along.
Replace whatever is needed then reassemble.

Me, I'd check the bolts on the case to insure they are tight (don't overtorque or you could break them or strip out the holes) along with replacing the oil you have with new 30 wt as yours is too thin IMO. Try it and see if it's sealed up or not. You can always tear it down any time but it's not fun to do if you don't have to.

Good luck

PS - here's one that I had to rebuild that was packed with grease. The bushings and seals were shot in it.


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## Shryp

The impeller on my Troy Bilt 2620 had no roll pins. It just slid on over a D shaped shaft.


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## Kiss4aFrog

HCBPH said:


> If your manual lists something, that's what I'd use first. Just some thoughts.


Or try the manufacturers customer service for info.

"00" grease is made to flow. It's almost a grease but not quite an oil. It's used a lot in riding mower transmission since they are used in such a wide variety of temperatures and they carry a lot more stress on their gears.
One place to get it is Oreilly auto parts P/N 7-06612. Usually needs to be ordered and it's a day to get it.

I don't even know what to say about using 3in1  Thought it was a joke at first. It's way too thin and not in any way a proper lube for this application considering both temperature and load on your gearbox.
If there is any wear at all on those seals that stuff will just all drip out.


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## Chuck2

*Dog Leash Syndrome*

Thanks again, HCBPH. 

Where would you suggest I get the seals from? And would you recommend bushings too?

My whole reason for doing this is to replace a plastic auger spacer that got messed up when it encountered a dogs leash last winter. I kinda enjoy diggin' in to jobs like this. And if it was spring time (when I told myself I would do this & not wait till it's about to snow again), I'd already be doing it. Now, of course, I'm very concerned about something going afoul & it being out of service when I need it. Errrr. I'm really good at being my own worst enemy!


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## Chuck2

Yeah as you found out there really is 3-In-One oil. It was the only thing I had that would fit in the little hole on top of the gear box & figured it was better than nothing. Since then I bought a small oil can.


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## Shryp

These videos show the grease.


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## HCBPH

*Misc*



Chuck2 said:


> Thanks again, HCBPH.
> 
> Where would you suggest I get the seals from? And would you recommend bushings too?


For parts, I'd start with Sears. If you can't find them there, then I'd start online. For bushings, if they're loose or seem worn I'd replace them. If you have the thing apart and have to do it later, that means more time and seal etc again. IMO, do it once and be done with it.


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## Kiss4aFrog

There was no doubt that 3in1 existed as I've used it for sewing machines and light lubricating around the house. So much better than WD40. I was just amazed anyone would grab it and use it to try and top off a gear box, any gear box.

When you have gears carrying that kind of pressure on them putting in the wrong oil can take it from just being low and that's ok to diluting the good stuff and causing a failure in the face of the gears metal.


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## Toro-8-2-4

You can get the 00 grease from Stens.

Stens 770-123 Replacement "00" Grease or Snapper 7061017


You could also try NAPA or Tractor Supply.

Hard to think the seals are bad after only two seasons of use. The 3 in 1 oil will flow out of very small clearances.

Some here have used Mobil 1 grease. It is rated down to some very low temperature like -40F.

The plug at the top is not very useful. It maybe more of a vent and or a way to check what is in there.

That instructional video is excellent.


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## Kiss4aFrog

So much for Sears customer support. I sent them an email requesting the proper fluid to use in the gear case and this is the reply:
*Josh_S, December 03, 2014 *

Thanks for the inquiry and for being a valued member.

Originally, I think the gearbox had 80W90 gear oil. You can use any axle grease in the gearbox. I prefer White Lithium Grease. It seems to do better in the cold temperatures.

I hope this helps and thanks for using SearsPartsDirect.com. We appreciate your business. 



I was expecting a reply that said XXXX is the recommended fluid/grease and not "I think" and "I prefer".
Due to the temperatures a snow blower operates in I would stick with the 80W90 or 00 grease as actual grease in my opinion is too thick and won't flow. Like Shryp pointed out that it gets pushed to the side. 00 won't do that as it's too fluid.
I do like Mobil 1 synthetic for a lot of lubricating purposes but the gear case isn't one of them. That's my 2 cents.


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## Chuck2

Thanks Kiss4aFrog. I appreciate you checking into that. 

Using an oil sounds better to me than a grease but I'm not familiar with 00 grease. I'm thinking though that if I used the oil I'd have to assemble it dry then add the oil. If I went with the grease, I might be able to add it prior to assembly.


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## Toro-8-2-4

The 90w gear oil is a much better lubricant for a worm drive. This is what is used in most industrial applications. The down side it is that it can leak out. You need sound seals. If it leaks out in the middle of a storm you will be pissed. And If you don't catch it right a way there may be some permanent damage to the worm gear.

The #00 grease is considered a good enough lubricant and wont leak out. It has been used in a lot of machines over the years and there is a good history of it working well.

Only YOU can decide what you are willing to deal with based on the pros and cons.

If you do choose to use an oil. DON't use synthetic. It will for sure leak.

Only


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## Chuck2

I don't understand why a synthetic would leak but not a regular oil. I thought it was always better.


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## Kiss4aFrog

It lubricates better but it does tend to leak if the seals aren't in really good shape. Some of the same properties that allow it to flow easier and account for less friction can work against it as far as not leaking past a seal. The seal needs friction with the shaft to seal properly and synthetic tries to lessen that friction. That's over simplified but it's the best I can do to try and explain.


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## Chuck2

That makes sense. Thanks.


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## HCBPH

*Lube*



Kiss4aFrog said:


> So much for Sears customer support. I sent them an email requesting the proper fluid to use in the gear case and this is the reply:
> *Josh_S, December 03, 2014 *
> 
> Thanks for the inquiry and for being a valued member.
> 
> Originally, I think the gearbox had 80W90 gear oil. You can use any axle grease in the gearbox. I prefer White Lithium Grease. It seems to do better in the cold temperatures.
> 
> I hope this helps and thanks for using SearsPartsDirect.com. We appreciate your business.
> 
> I was expecting a reply that said XXXX is the recommended fluid/grease and not "I think" and "I prefer".
> Due to the temperatures a snow blower operates in I would stick with the 80W90 or 00 grease as actual grease in my opinion is too thick and won't flow. Like Shryp pointed out that it gets pushed to the side. 00 won't do that as it's too fluid.
> I do like Mobil 1 synthetic for a lot of lubricating purposes but the gear case isn't one of them. That's my 2 cents.


Here's a word to the wise on gear lube: do your research prior to just putting some in the gearcase. Right at the moment I can't remember the exact name it's called but some of the newest grades of gear lube will actually attack bronze gears and bushings. I think it was something like de-sulphurized and was API Gl-5 spec lub, IIRC API GL4 lube didn't attack bronze parts). Kind of like the DOT3 vs DOT4 brake fluids, may be newer but there can be downsides to it.

I found this out when I was working on my wood planer, which does use gear lube the the transmission on it. I happened to stumble on this issue and during my research found that Valvoline has a grade of this that's been de-whatever-its-called so it does not attack bronze.

Do your own research before adding any gearlube to an auger gearbox to avoid future issues.


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## Scottydog

Chuck2 said:


> How do I go about replacing this black plastic spacer on the auger shaft of my Craftsman (247.88830) ? Shown in pic with hose clamp around it.


Just finished replacing an auger shaft spacer. It's about 30 minutes to take off the housing and properly replace the spacer. I read some think the spacers aren't really needed. Looking at it the spacers keep the auger blade flange bushing in place. Without it the bushing could displace, and the auger blade would bang around and make trouble. Do it right, otherwise it will be more expensive to do it over.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Welcome to SBF Scottydog










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