# Toro 624 power shift - new engine



## Bonzohansen

Hi all. I have a 1988 toro 624 power shift here m#38510. Last year the governor broke and it raced itself to an early demise. I see the threads on using the hf 69730 6.5hp engine, which appears to be a good replacement for the Tecumseh H70 series engine. Mine has an H60 engine. Does anyone know if it is physically the same as the h70? Dr Google isn't clarifying it for me lol.

Thanks-


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## GustoGuy

Bonzohansen said:


> Hi all. I have a 1988 toro 624 power shift here m#38510. Last year the governor broke and it raced itself to an early demise. I see the threads on using the hf 69730 6.5hp engine, which appears to be a good replacement for the Tecumseh H70 series engine. Mine has an H60 engine. Does anyone know if it is physically the same as the h70? Dr Google isn't clarifying it for me lol.
> 
> Thanks-


Same mounting bolt hole pattern as the Tecumseh 7hp engine. Is your engine a 2 shaft engine or a single shaft?


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## Shryp

Yea, H60 and H70 are same block. Most parts can be swapped between the 2 engines and I did take one broken H60 and one broken H70 and make 1 working engine.

As was stated, just make sure yours is a single shaft.


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## Buttchet

I just got done replacing the exact model powershift with a 6.5hp harbor frieght clone. I will tell you this - the mounting studs for the engine are the same as the H60 but the shaft is way too short. before really thinking through the swap I ground off the mounting studs and drilled new holes closer to the impeller. only one problem...on this machine there is no way to put the bolts in from under the machine because of the transmission and all the stuff that makes this machine powershift.
I finally got mine mounted by using L-bolts from the top and setting the engine over them carefully so as not to drop them below. overall massive pain in the butt to swap this machine with a clone engine. after I got the new engine mounted then came the issue of the belts lining up correctly so that the new pulleys, particularily the transmission pulley, didn't stayed engaged all the time. The alignment of the shaft from the clone engine to the H60 is different and the belt would stay engaged on the pulley no matter what size belt I used. the answer?? I had to make my own belt gaurds and try and gerry-rig this to take tension off the belts. yes, it worked finally, but I don't have much confidence in the final solution.

moral of this story - do a lot of research and buy a engine that has the correct shaft length and mounting holes otherwise you are in for a lot of work.


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## UNDERTAKER

on second thought I am leaving this one ALONE!!!!


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## Bonzohansen

Thanks guys. It is a single shaft. I kept coming up with h70 references so I wasn't sure.

I'll do more searching and reading, I haven't seen the troubles listed by buttchet before.


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## 43128

you could also try grinding off the paint where the motor mounts and welding on studs to mount the motor on


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## Buttchet

I'm not sure what POWERSHIFT93 used to repower his Toro but I would look into that model briggs - more money for sure but might be worth it versus the trouble. also have to figure the pulley will not fit on the Harbor clone as it is 3/4" shaft versus the Tecumseh 7/8".


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## Bonzohansen

I'd look into another engine if the price is reasonable. The predator engine at HF (which is 5 miles from my house) is the one i keep coming up with when I search. I'm not looking to drop $500 on a 26 year old machine I can replace for $1000


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## UNDERTAKER

Buttchet said:


> I'm not sure what POWERSHIFT93 used to repower his Toro but I would look into that model briggs - more money for sure but might be worth it versus the trouble. also have to figure the pulley will not fit on the Harbor clone as it is 3/4" shaft versus the Tecumseh 7/8".


 you know what I used is a 13HP BRIGGS engine. for THE MASTERPIECE.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> I'd look into another engine if the price is reasonable. The predator engine at HF (which is 5 miles from my house) is the one i keep coming up with when I search. I'm not looking to drop $500 on a 26 year old machine I can replace for $1000


 where are you located. the parts for those POWERSHIFTS are still made right here in the frozen tundra of MINNESOTA. trust me the new ones are not as good as those old POWERSHIFTS.


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## Bonzohansen

NJ.



POWERSHIFT93 said:


> you know what I used is a 13HP BRIGGS engine. for THE MASTERPIECE.


that is a bit too much for this one I suspect. lol


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## UNDERTAKER

check out Brandnewengines.com they will have the size and HP 4that 1.


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## Bonzohansen

Like this one?

Briggs & Stratton Horizontal Snow Engine 8 TP 7/8" x 2-25/32" #12A103-0148


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## 43128

if i were you i would get one of these bad boys.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> Like this one?
> 
> Briggs & Stratton Horizontal Snow Engine 8 TP 7/8" x 2-25/32" #12A103-0148


 that will cut the cheese just right. what is the dimensions on your old crank????? just to double check


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## Kiss4aFrog

Would that PowerShift take a 7/8" shaft like the Briggs if you're going to use the original pulley ??

I'm still dreaming of mounting a diesel on the 32" Craftsman or Ariens.


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## UNDERTAKER

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Would that PowerShift take a 7/8" shaft like the Briggs if you're going to use the original pulley ??
> 
> I'm still dreaming of mounting a diesel on the 32" Craftsman or Ariens.


yeah those tecumsapart ran the 7/8 shaft, BRIGGS ran 1 inch shafts. so yes there frog it would take for that 1


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## Kiss4aFrog

Not that it would rule out the Honda you'd just need to get a different pulley (and belt), new or used.

Number of different sources like : Toro Snowblower Parts | Snowblower Parts | MFG Supply


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## UNDERTAKER

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Not that it would rule out the Honda you'd just need to get a different pulley, new or used.
> 
> Number of different sources like : Toro Snowblower Parts | Snowblower Parts | MFG Supply


 YEAHHHHHH once again I am not touching that subject.


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## Bonzohansen

I'll pull it apart over the weekend and measure the output shaft. I was expecting a 1" shaft but maybe that is not right.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> I'll pull it apart over the weekend and measure the output shaft. I was expecting a 1" shaft but maybe that is not right.


 yeah that's fine let me know if you need any more help.


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## Bonzohansen

Pulley came off very easy. Output shaft is 7/8" with a key groove. Shaft is approx 2 7/8" long

I can go over to HF later and dbl chk shaft diamter on those engines. Searching tells me it is 3/4", so I am not sure how i'd compensate for 1/8". The HF 6.5hp motors appear to have a 2 7/16" output shaft. That is ~1/2" difference. I don't see why I couldn't move the engine forward in some manner, but I have to look closer.


edit 1: huh, adapters are out there
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111289564839?lpid=82

edit 2: predator manual says 3/4" shaft diameter


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## Bonzohansen

Briggs & Stratton Horizontal Snow Engine 8 TP 7/8" x 2-25/32" #12A103-0148

$282.43 shipped to my door. Not unreasonable. With a starter. I wonder how much different the mounting base is.

We don't get MN snow her in NJ. It typically gets used 4 times a year. Some years more, other years never. Thus I'm not looking to dump a lot of $$ into an old snowblower.


Edit: I hate this. same place, $235 shipped!


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## UNDERTAKER

you are going to have to switch or move the mounting brackets under the transmission they are riveted in there so you will have to drill them out and replace with 1/4 by 1 inch bolts I would use stainless steel so they do not rot. when using the BRIGGS stud mount they will line up the pulley right on the mark. you will have to check to see if those belts are the same length. they might be the same or different between the two engines. let me know if you need anything..


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## 43128

the predator is still the better value


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## UNDERTAKER

43128 said:


> the predator is still the better value


 how is it a better value. if they are just about the same price???????


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## Bonzohansen

Is the trans difficult to get out of the way? I don't see it being difficult to mount the engine. If the shaft is too low I'll shim the engine up with some steel. Else I find new belts. Can you use automotive v-belts on these?

Busy with yard work today, I'll try to pull the engine off tomorrow then I'll have a better look. I did throw some pb blaster on the 4 mounting nuts today.


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## Bonzohansen

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> how is it a better value. if they are just about the same price???????


They aren't, engine itself is going to run me an extra $125, but that gap might close if I don't have to buy other parts. But on paper I agree the b&s might be the better choice. Also comes with starter and alternator which is nice


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## UNDERTAKER

no you can not use auto belts. the transmission will have to come out. do you have a TORO dealer near you????? it is better to swap belts then to shim an engine. snowblower belts are fractional hp. were auto belts are not. I can walk you through the removal of every thing.


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## UNDERTAKER

TORO used stud plates to hold the engine to the frame. the 4 cadium plated bolts hold the engine down.


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## Bonzohansen

I'm sure there is a local dealer. Thanks for the help


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## Shryp

Tractor Supply has cheap belts or any local lawn or tractor type store in your area.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Or ... auto parts stores but not automotive belts. The fractional hp belts are designed to slip and still function. An automotive belt will burn up. Auto parts stores carry an assortment and if not the one you need can usually get in a day or two. Faster than ordering on ebay.
Gates PoweRated 6870 - FHP V-Belt | O'Reilly Auto Parts
DAYCO® FHP Utility V-Belt
Fractional Horsepower Belts FHP


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## Bonzohansen

Engine is off. Three nuts came off easy, one of the back studs snapped. No big deal.

At quick glance it looks like the trans comes out kind of easy as an assembly. I guess more research and looking at the manual again. Seems the auger impeller will need to come off too. Maybe a good time to add those flaps I read about. 99% of our snow is wet, dense snow.

Looks like there is some room between the mounting surface and trans cradle. That might offer some options too. 

This can't be any harder than when I put a six speed trans in my second gen camaro. Nothing some ingenuity and my welder can't handle lol


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> Engine is off. Three nuts came off easy, one of the back studs snapped. No big deal.
> 
> At quick glance it looks like the trans comes out kind of easy as an assembly. I guess more research and looking at the manual again. Seems the auger impeller will need to come off too. Maybe a good time to add those flaps I read about. 99% of our snow is wet, dense snow.
> 
> Looks like there is some room between the mounting surface and trans cradle. That might offer some options too.
> 
> This can't be any harder than when I put a six speed trans in my second gen camaro. Nothing some ingenuity and my welder can't handle lol


 you WILL NOT need a welder for this operation. there has to remain clearance between that for the adjustment of the trans. and the powershift feature.


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## UNDERTAKER

I would be very care full on that impeller kit. if you do it you get one shot. other wise you will throw it out of balance. that part is around 200.00 for a new one. I talked BROTHER DETROIT out of it. I do not think they are worth it on the POWERSHIFTS. the gap is tight enough. put it on the bucket to get the trans out. I would check the impeller bushing while you are in there. let me know how it goes.


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## Bonzohansen

No kit, got it.

No welding? Where is the fun in that? Lol

I'll look at the diagrams and such this week and see what is involved in dropping that trans. Thanks!


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## Shryp

The balance isn't all that important. Once you are throwing snow it messes with the balance anyway.


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## UNDERTAKER

Shryp said:


> The balance isn't all that important. Once you are throwing snow it messes with the balance anyway.


 YEAH tell that to my old impeller.


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## Buttchet

just got in from trying out the old PowerShift with the Honda clone and it worked awesome. 4" of wet thick stuff and it was throwing like a champ. I installed an impeller kit this weekend and it helped a lot. crazy the difference it makes. I will post some pics later


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## Buttchet

PowerShift93 is correct, the tolerances are very close on these machines but I will tell you that the difference between the throwing distance last weeks snow and this week with the impeller kit is substantial.


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## superedge88

Before I sold my power shift I put an impeller kit on it and it made a big difference. I highly recommend it.


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## Bonzohansen

B&S ordered. I'll try to get the trans out this weekend. Here we go!


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## Bonzohansen

Trans is sitting on my workbench now lol. Came out pretty easy. Engine should be here Tuesday.


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## Bonzohansen

Engine is here, out of the box and resting in place. It is _almost _bolt in, not quite. It appears to need to move 1/8"-1/4" back to get the pulleys to align. I'll know better over the weekend. I still have to side by side the old & new engine to gauge pulley height difference. 

I'm a little pissy it came with zero documentation. Now I have to find instructions myself on the web. Not a big deal but jeez couldn't they at least put break-in instructions in the box? I buy a reman car engine and I get all sorts of documents! Oh well, minor problem easy to overcome.

I can already see I will need to fab up a bracket for the electric start. lol


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> Engine is here, out of the box and resting in place. It is _almost _bolt in, not quite. It appears to need to move 1/8"-1/4" back to get the pulleys to align. I'll know better over the weekend. I still have to side by side the old & new engine to gauge pulley height difference.
> 
> I'm a little pissy it came with zero documentation. Now I have to find instructions myself on the web. Not a big deal but jeez couldn't they at least put break-in instructions in the box? I buy a reman car engine and I get all sorts of documents! Oh well, minor problem easy to overcome.
> 
> I can already see I will need to fab up a bracket for the electric start. lol


 run it under full load for 5 hours using non synthetic oil. then drop that oil. and use what ever kind that floats your boat on the jersey shore.


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## Buttchet

be sure to take lots of pics, very curious how this goes for you.


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## Bonzohansen

Bonzohansen said:


> Briggs & Stratton Horizontal Snow Engine 8 TP 7/8" x 2-25/32" #12A103-0148
> 
> $282.43 shipped to my door. Not unreasonable. With a starter. I wonder how much different the mounting base is.
> 
> We don't get MN snow her in NJ. It typically gets used 4 times a year. Some years more, other years never. Thus I'm not looking to dump a lot of $$ into an old snowblower.
> 
> 
> Edit: I hate this. same place, $235 shipped!
> Briggs Stratton Horizontal Snow Engine 8 TP 7 8" x 2 25 32" 12A103 0148 | eBay



manuals, for those so inclined:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/results?NTT=12a103-0148-E8


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## Bonzohansen

Quick update on slow progress. Output shaft is the exactly same height, no problem there, no need for new belts. Pulleys go on no problem, no collars/shims/extensions needed. Whole engine has to move ~3/8" back to compensate for minor design differences. So all the old mounting studs had to come out even if they were long enough, which they are not. I thought those suckers would just tap out with a hammer. No way. Had to get the whizzer wheel out and start cutting. Belt guard will also need to be shimmed out about 3/8" with collars, but otherwise bolts on. 

Once i'm done I'll post some pics, but I hope to wrap this up by the weekend. I need to go out and get a few more nuts & bolts, an extension for the oil drain, and some blue threadlocker. Oh, and some 30wt dino. A lot of 5/16"-18 fasteners on this thing lol.

I was surprised how easily it all came apart. If this all works out maybe next year I'll blow it apart again and give it a cosmetic cleanup and replace more hardware. I noticed it needs a new scraper too. maybe tires. This is how the clutch on my Z28 ended up being an 18 month full mechanical overhaul lol.


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## Bonzohansen

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> run it under full load for 5 hours using non synthetic oil. then drop that oil. and use what ever kind that floats your boat on the jersey shore.


define full load. Just assembled with the belts on it running med-to-high but nothing engaged, or do you mean like the auger running for 5 hours? I'm not sure if the auger guts will like spinning for that long w/o stopping with no load. Plus that means I really have to baby sit the thing for 5 hours. Also that seems like a long ass time. It only takes 30 minutes to break in an old V8 flat tappet cam, and rings more or less set faster than that.

**** manual says noting about break in either, just says change oil after 5 hours. Some oil came out of it when i removed one of the plugs. I wonder if that is just from assembly or if they run them at the factory. I assume just assembly.


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## Grunt

You are correct, after five hours of use which will be under a load, change the oil. Make SURE the oil level is correct before running it.


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## suspicionofignorance2

Your earlier post you mentioned getting 30w dino oil...Are you sure you want straight 30 weight?


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## UNDERTAKER

under load as in pushing snow into the neighbors driveway.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> Quick update on slow progress. Output shaft is the exactly same height, no problem there, no need for new belts. Pulleys go on no problem, no collars/shims/extensions needed. Whole engine has to move ~3/8" back to compensate for minor design differences. So all the old mounting studs had to come out even if they were long enough, which they are not. I thought those suckers would just tap out with a hammer. No way. Had to get the whizzer wheel out and start cutting. Belt guard will also need to be shimmed out about 3/8" with collars, but otherwise bolts on.
> 
> Once i'm done I'll post some pics, but I hope to wrap this up by the weekend. I need to go out and get a few more nuts & bolts, an extension for the oil drain, and some blue threadlocker. Oh, and some 30wt dino. A lot of 5/16"-18 fasteners on this thing lol.
> 
> I was surprised how easily it all came apart. If this all works out maybe next year I'll blow it apart again and give it a cosmetic cleanup and replace more hardware. I noticed it needs a new scraper too. maybe tires. This is how the clutch on my Z28 ended up being an 18 month full mechanical overhaul lol.


 I would use 10w30 instead of straight 30w. there pilgrim.


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## Bonzohansen

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> under load as in pushing snow into the neighbors driveway.


Got to have snow to push lol. So there really is no break in, just button it up and go, 5 hours later change the oil. 

10/30, got it.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> Got to have snow to push lol. So there really is no break in, just button it up and go, 5 hours later change the oil.
> 
> 10/30, got it.


 THAT is how we do it here in the country.


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## Bonzohansen

Tomorrow I'll put oil & gas in and start it up. One pic for now.











I have to do some repairs in the handle assembly. Part #38 is broken, I also have to check on the reverse operation.


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## Buttchet

man that looks great with that briggs engine!


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## Bonzohansen

It was so straight forward. I could do this again in three hours if I had all the parts.


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## detdrbuzzard

great work bonzohansen


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## UNDERTAKER

MAZEL TOV there chief...


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## Zavie

Bonzohansen said:


> It was so straight forward. I could do this again in three hours if I had all the parts.


Is there an adapter to go from the 7/8" engine shaft if you had the 1" shaft
pulley? I'm thinking my Toro 524 is 1". BTW great looking machine with the
Briggs on it!


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## UNDERTAKER

Zavie said:


> Is there an adapter to go from the 7/8" engine shaft if you had the 1" shaft
> pulley? I'm thinking my Toro 524 is 1". BTW great looking machine with the
> Briggs on it!


 just get the new pulley.


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## Bonzohansen

you can try googling for a spacer.










ok I have the control assembly apart. I definitely need #38 "62-1470 - BASE-LOCKOUT". w/o that no power shifting and that will cause other issue with the reverse & lockout levers. I also remembered finding reverse was a pain last time this ran so I checked out all those parts before I place an order with toro. the reverse parts are basically frozen. I added some penetrating oil and got things moving but i need to take it apart. I have found that with nearly every part that moves, rust causing binding issues. But at least I don't see anything else broken. 

I will replace #13 snap ring and #14 retainer. they are so rusty the snap ring just fell apart and the #14 did not move! but to take this apart i need to remove them. good times.

I will order new springs since they are cheap and the original look rusty as heck. So while I am there....


See how this escalates closer to a price of a new one lol


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## UNDERTAKER

you never will hit that price of a new machine.


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## Kiss4aFrog

Pulley adapter and key 7/8" to 1"

Or on Ebay: 7 8" to 1" inch w Step Key Gas Engine Pulley Crank Shaft Sleeve Adapter Predator | eBay

Pulleys & Sheaves


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## Bonzohansen

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> you never will hit that price of a new machine.


you're right! this will end up running me around $300 or so including the controller parts. 

Hoping after this I don't have to do anything but change oil for a few years.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> you're right! this will end up running me around $300 or so including the controller parts.
> 
> Hoping after this I don't have to do anything but change oil for a few years.


 better check the gear oil. use 80-90w non synthetic. the seals will not hold the syn stuff.


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## Bonzohansen

So the UPS dropped my parts off at 7pm tonight. Controls are all fixed. What a rusty mess.

Here you can see the broken lever. I also found the three parts that rotate on that shaft were all more or less frozen. I suspect that attributed to the broken lever. Took a lot of PBblaster to get everything loose & apart.









just another view









Here you can see the stud I had to wire wheel all the scale off of. Thank god there was a wire wheel in my dremel kit. it got some anti-seize and all three parts now rotate freely on the stud. One of the 4 mounting studs is long and another lever pivots on it, where the red line is. Same issue there too. You can also see the new lever.









All put together. I changed all the springs too while I was there. I didn't want to take this apart again and the old ones were quite rusty.









Side view, you can see all 3 of the parts that rotate on that shaft.










Controller works great now, much smoother operation.


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## Bonzohansen

A 30 second run down on this thing

Tear down









Here is what the transmission looks like









Too far forward, studs need to move back. Plus they were too short.









Comparison of old & new









Minor adjustment for belt guard









Tried to put the oil drain on the RH side. Nope!









To the LH side it goes









Clean view of install. IIRC those are 1 1/2 x 5/16-16 gr8 bolts.









Belts line up nice









New mounting bolts. Including perfectly measured holes on wrong side of original studs lol









Getting it back together underneath. The pivot mechanism bolts and the axle itself was more rust & bind.









Oil in it, no gas yet, it has not actually run yet. It's raining here now & all day tomorrow so the cars can't go outside until Friday. And I can't get the machine outside with the cars in the way. So we wait patiently. 

I still need a permanent mount for the electric start parts. Other than that she is ready to cook. If we ever get snow maybe I'll put a go pro on it. 

Bam. Now I enjoy a nice cold magic hat #9. :beer:


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## db9938

Nice to hear that someone else appreciates a quality brew. but I would have hit the bare spots with some paint.


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## Buttchet

wow, looks great! really nice job


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## GustoGuy

It looks great. How much power does that Briggs engine have?. It should be a nice upgrade from the stock engine in power. Have to show a video of it hitting the end of the driveway snowpack.


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## Bonzohansen

db9938 said:


> Nice to hear that someone else appreciates a quality brew. but I would have hit the bare spots with some paint.


Yeah you're right. There are so many bumps, scraps and rust spots on this thing I kind of overlooked it.



GustoGuy said:


> It looks great. How much power does that Briggs engine have?. It should be a nice upgrade from the stock engine in power. Have to show a video of it hitting the end of the driveway snowpack.


8tp. Briggs Stratton Horizontal Snow Engine 8 TP 7 8" x 2 25 32" 12A103 0148 | eBay


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## classiccat

Lookin' good Bonzo! It's going to be a BEAST & you now know this machine inside & out!

No tellin' when we'll see more white stuff here in the NE!?! ...although with a 90min commute to work...I'm not complaining


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## UNDERTAKER

hang a DRAIN ZIT off the back of the engine.


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## UNDERTAKER

I told you to drill out those rivets.


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## Bonzohansen

Eh. I started to drill one but it didn't seen to budge so I just cut. Probably just impatience. No big deal. It isn't a show car or visible.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> Eh. I started to drill one but it didn't seen to budge so I just cut. Probably just impatience. No big deal. It isn't a show car or visible.


 They are a pain to drill. because they want to spin. but you have lean in hard on those little buggers.


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## Bonzohansen

So I get all my work done today so now I can push the snow blower outside I put gas in it and it pours out the carburetor throttle bore as fast as it can go. Takes me 2 or 3 minutes to get all the shielding off so I could get to it because there's no gas shut off because why would there be.

Probably a stuck float. Pisses me off and I got to take it all apart now. Thank God I spent the extra money on a new engine. If I wanted to rebuild a carburetor I would have bought a used motor that didn't run and fixed it. Sorry I'm a little aggravated right now.


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## UNDERTAKER

YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHH some days the dog just bites.


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## scrappy

Nice build! Sorry about the carb problems. 

So silly that Briggs does not include a fuel shut off. My dad has a $900.00 Toro mower with a Briggs, and no fuel shut off. Just stupid. 

At least while you have it apart add a shut off.


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## classiccat

I feel your pain bonzo! That's just silly.

When you get all of this nonsense out of the way, you're going to have one solid machine!


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## Bonzohansen

Float must have been stuck. Took the bowl off, everything seemed to move ok, put it back together, no problems. Started on second pull. Everything worked engine related. 

Looks like there is a knock out on the engine cover for a fuel shutoff. But it needs to be a 90*, not straight like the ones I can buy on the shelf. Got to do some research on that before I modify anything.

While the covers are all off I want to eliminate the Briggs key and wire in the toro key up on the control panel. That seems easy enough to do.

No reverse. I thought replacing the broken control parts and freeing up the frozen levers would do it. Now I have to figure that out. That kind of bummed me out a bit. Cable is moving other than that no idea yet.


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## Bonzohansen

Lol 15 second google search gave me this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038U3JJI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> Float must have been stuck. Took the bowl off, everything seemed to move ok, put it back together, no problems. Started on second pull. Everything worked engine related.
> 
> Looks like there is a knock out on the engine cover for a fuel shutoff. But it needs to be a 90*, not straight like the ones I can buy on the shelf. Got to do some research on that before I modify anything.
> 
> While the covers are all off I want to eliminate the Briggs key and wire in the toro key up on the control panel. That seems easy enough to do.
> 
> No reverse. I thought replacing the broken control parts and freeing up the frozen levers would do it. Now I have to figure that out. That kind of bummed me out a bit. Cable is moving other than that no idea yet.


YEAHHHHHHHHHH I dumped that stupid key thing to. had my jet mechanic next door neighbor wire it up to the dash.


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## Bonzohansen

I got the fuel shutoff in and wired the switch to the toro key on the control panel. Just have to clean up the starter wiring and it will look totally factory.

I'll get to the reverse problem one of these days. I have a golf cart to fix for little league.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> I got the fuel shutoff in and wired the switch to the toro key on the control panel. Just have to clean up the starter wiring and it will look totally factory.
> 
> I'll get to the reverse problem one of these days. I have a golf cart to fix for little league.


you will have to adjust the reverse cable under the dash. for that 1.


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## UNDERTAKER

I forgot to tell you there BONZOHANSEN. that you are doing THE GREAT ONES WORK. by keeping those OLD POWERSHIFTS FROM RUSTING IN PEACE!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Bonzohansen

Oh well, cable is adjusted and has good movement at the trans. I'm thinking it is in the trans. That is a summer job. The manual basically said cable or trans.


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## UNDERTAKER

you said that you don't get much snow out there in jersey. so wait till summer on that. and keep me in the loop on that 1.


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## Bonzohansen

So we got 3"+ of soggy, heavy snow Friday night. I had to go fast so I just shoveled out Saturday morning, no big deal. Today I had more time so I fired her up and went out to clear the street where the plows made their mess. I figured slush and ice and such was a good test. Blew right through it. So that's promising for the snow they are saying we are going to get over the next day and a half. We shall see.

I did get a chance today to adjust the control cables. So that was good.

This is a heavy **** machine and no reverse does not help lol.


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## Bonzohansen

I guess when they said 2' they really meant 2" so i will not be testing her out today! lol


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## Bonzohansen

Well we got 3" more while I was working so I fired her up. Worked great, plenty of power, even blasted through street slush & ice. This machine is overkill for 5"+ of powder, my arms are tired! lol


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## UNDERTAKER

I was wondering when you would be checking in again. reverse is done via the bell crank on the top of the trans. have a looksee up in there.


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## Bonzohansen

I think it is a trans issue. From what I can tell there is good movement of the cable at the trans. Summer job, it didn't really impact me too much to be honest, slide in in neutral and go.


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## Bonzohansen

Just an update. She blasted through 18"+ today no problem. Started on first pull everytime. I haven't even used the electric starter yet. Did my driveway, two other driveways, and did the street for a bunch of houses so the plows dont kill our driveways.

Its heavy though, quite the arm workout. And I really need to fix reverse lol.


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## Kiss4aFrog

_Help a Neighbor in the blizzard contest! I'm buying 3 $50 gift cards.

_You should submit an entry for one of those gift cards Snowblowerskids.com is offering for helping a neighbor.


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## UNDERTAKER

Bonzohansen said:


> Just an update. She blasted through 18"+ today no problem. Started on first pull everytime. I haven't even used the electric starter yet. Did my driveway, two other driveways, and did the street for a bunch of houses so the plows dont kill our driveways.
> 
> Its heavy though, quite the arm workout. And I really need to fix reverse lol.


 I reckon you really should have a looksee into that problem.:icon-doh::icon-doh::icon-doh::icon-doh::icon-doh:


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## Kiss4aFrog

Buttchet said:


> moral of this story - do a lot of research and buy a engine that has the correct shaft length and mounting holes otherwise you are in for a lot of work.


Any chance you did a build thread with photos 
And a link if you did ??


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