# Help Old Toro 7/26 leaking gas like crazy!!



## alex30 (Dec 27, 2018)

Hi I picked up this old Toro Snowblower serial #31763-308433 with Briggs engine #190402. 
I payed $50 CDN for it. 

Now it has TWO problems!!

When I went to check it out it was out of gas but the owner assured me that it was working great last time he used it. Sure enough when I got home and put fresh gas in, it I ran for 2 seconds and died and leaked gas out of carburetor like crazy. Now I am assuming its because the float valve/needle is sticking allowing fuel to flow out of carburetor into the engine crankcase??? I also noticed the engine oil is watery and is grayish....? 

I am not mechanically inclined so I am afraid when I take apart the carburetor I wont be able to put it back together. I found this link on this forum here which would help. Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton Medium Two-Piece Flo-jet Carburetor. It only shows how to take it apart but not assembling it back???

In case I need to replace parts for the carburetor are these available at the dealer? Or should I buy a new carb I found this one but not sure if it will fit? https://www.ebay.ca/i/292495081342?chn=ps&dispItem=1
Does anyone know??

P.S This is my first post does that mean I am not allowed to post pictures???


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Welcome Alex! We'd love to see pics of that old Briggs-powered Toro! 

The leak is either from incorrect float height/stuck-float/leaky-inlet or the emulsion tube not seating properly. 










Be careful with the emulsion tube... it is very soft and you need a screwdriver that seats very snug/squarely on the head. 

Briggs and Stratton does still sell the special screwdriver (pns 19061 and 19062). I ground down my own in a pinch (and purchased the B&S for my next updraft!).


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR...epid=853900846&hash=item211ad1bec1:rk:15:pf:0 Same Thing, better price. Bolt on and go.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

If you don't know what you are doing and have no clue or mechanical ability, buy a new carburetor and use the old one to learn on. Your carb is much more complicated than other carburetors because it's an updraft. When you take the carb apart, it's self explanatory how to put it together other than which end of the soft plastic emulsion tube is up. Depending how bad the carb is, you probably can't rebuild this carb without a kit next to you as there are things to replace and the soft float valve seat.

Cleaning a carb is easy however it doesn't always work. The success failure rate is dependent on the method used inline with how bad the carburetor is. Many times a minimal cleaning using a spray of carburetor cleaner works, other times a carb dunk is needed, and the ultimate is using an Ultrasonic cleaner.


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## SayItAintSnow (Dec 15, 2017)

Alex,


Do precisely what both Jackmels and J/L advise. Grab a new carb, attach the choke linkage, fuel line, position the gasket and just bolt that sucker on.


Forget trying to get parts for it and taking the carb apart. You could end up losing some tiny part or put it back together and find that it's not flooding anymore, but still has a minute clog somewhere, and it still won't run. :banghead:



Save yourself the grief for only $15 bucks. If the carb is the only thing ailing that machine, it'll probably run like new after you swap it out. :yahoo:



_*Immediately*_ after that, drain that contaminated oil out of the crank case and put some cheap dino oil of the proper weight and run it up for about 20 minutes. Drain that oil out, to insure you have cleaned out all the gas, and put some synthetic oil in, and you will probably be good to go! :blowerhug:



Best of luck with that!:wink2:
.
.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I didn't address the oil issue.

SayItAintSnow suggested draining and using cheap oil for a flush, I agree. Run it for 20 minutes, however you may still find it to be discolored. If so, do it again. Sometimes I've had to flush the engine with kerosene, pulling the cord to distribute with the plug wire disconnected!!!


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## SayItAintSnow (Dec 15, 2017)

Absolutely J/L..... I've never come across one that bad, but then we can't see this particular machine, so we don't know how bad this thing has been leaking internally, nor for how long.


Alex,

I also hasten to add that in advising to swap that carb, I'm in no way dissing "Classicat's" advice. Read and understand what he is telling you, as that is valuable advice for diagnosing this type of problem in *any* piece of power equipment. This is an example of why this place is such a valuable resource, especially for newcomers to power equipment. Once you understand this, then the choice is yours, as to how you proceed.


Like J/L said, sometimes it's a couple of quick sprays and off you go. Sometimes it's a complete re-build and even that doesn't fix everything wrong with it, and then you have to immerse the carb or use an ultra-sonic cleaner. Each time you try something else though, you obviously have to keep taking the thing off the engine, and this approach can end up being very time consuming and frustrating. (Ask me how I know this....:devil,
.
.


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

Listen to these guys. 



If you go new carb route take good pictures of linkage setup on old carb.....meaning the little metal rods attached to carb from throttle lever to carb and from governor to carb. (noting the holes the rods go into on carb) I would mark position on old carb with marker before you take them off and use as guide when you put new one on.




Opppp....Briggs not Tec....Still take pics of setup.....won't hurt.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

SayItAintSnow said:


> Absolutely J/L..... I've never come across one that bad, but then we can't see this particular machine, so we don't know how bad this thing has been leaking internally, nor for how long.
> 
> Like J/L said, sometimes it's a couple of quick sprays and off you go. Sometimes it's a complete re-build and even that doesn't fix everything wrong with it, and then you have to immerse the carb or use an ultra-sonic cleaner. Each time you try something else though, you obviously have to keep taking the thing off the engine, and this approach can end up being very time consuming and frustrating. (Ask me how I know this....:devil.


When someone leaves their snowblower outside in the rain for weeks or months and forgets to put the oil cap on, a one time oil change doesn't cut it. I learned. It didn't seem to do a bit of good. I felt I had to flush it with a solvent, twice or thrice. I'm not sure but I may have even run it then for 5-10 seconds.

I gave up taking carbs on and off, trying different things, finding they don't work. Since I bought my own ultrasonic cleaner, every carb goes in there for 60 minutes.


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## alex30 (Dec 27, 2018)

WOW!!! I didnt expect so many replies in such a short time! You guys rock! I will order a new carb and let you guys know how it works out.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

alex30 said:


> WOW!!! I didnt expect so many replies in such a short time! You guys rock! I will order a new carb and let you guys know how it works out.


That’s a really nice machine!

It’s hard to imagine fuel getting into the crankcase in this case unless it was tipped; it would have to fill the intake assembly 1st.

Most of the leaks in them is the emulsion tube not being fully seated...even on brand new carbs ...so don’t be surprised if you still have a leak with the aftermarket.

If you do decide to investigate / refresh the original, be sure to 1st remove the emulsion tube before separating the halves. You 1st remove the main jet then carefully (!!) unscrew it. Zippo varga has some good updraft carb videos on YouTube...including addressing this very leak. :2cool:


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* I would throw a new fuel line on it also. and a filter would not hurt either. k:k:k:k:k:k:*


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