# Light Switches: Need or Gadget?



## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Anyone know why our blowers come from the factory with lights, but no switches? 

Yet, when people add lights to blowers without factory lights (or just to have extras), they almost always add switches?

I can't think of anything else that I own that has lights hotwired without a switch.

Granted, my HS blower isn't using a battery, but this still seems odd to me. I really don't need the light running if I'm out during the day.

Mike


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Much like dirt bikes that have head lights, No switch. Might be cost savings but since no battery I guess they figure why not have it on. During the day it may help get attention like day time running lights on cars. I'm just glad I finally got one with a light. I just need to finish rebuilding it.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

additional circuitry/components (_basically a voltage regulator_) is required to limit the no-load stator output (_switch in off-state_) from damaging your light...especially LEDs.


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## matto (Nov 5, 2016)

Also: lawyers. 

The light on the blower acts as a safety light so cars can see you. They don't want people forgetting to turn the light on.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Think of it as a daytime running light ! LOL

They probably don't put switches because of the cost, and the extra chance of a failure mode during warranty. Outdoor switches have a higher failure rate than indoor switches.


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## [email protected] (Nov 21, 2011)

mikeinri said:


> Anyone know why our blowers come from the factory with lights, but no switches?


#1 Cost. When you manufacture mass quantities of machines, a $1.03 switch adds up!

#2 Customers. With nearly zero customers complaining or requesting a switch, there appears to be no need for one. 

#3 Market. Not aware of any other brands that offer a dedicated switch, and surely is not promoted as a 'feature'

#4 Benefit. If one fitted to the machine, the cost guys would ask me, "Well, how many more will you sell this year just because of the switch?


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

In before " if you sell a 4 figure snowblower then a couple of dollars shouldnt make a difference" comment . 


Personally, I prefer the switch, especially with upgraded LED lights that I have on my machines as they are flood type and can be blinding if you are on the receiving end of the blower.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

I'm a fan of light switches. Added one to my HS828 after I bought the light kit in '93. 

I only use it when I need to see and when I need others, in vehicles to see me. :icon_wow2:


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

classiccat said:


> additional circuitry/components (_basically a voltage regulator_) is required to limit the no-load stator output (_switch in off-state_) from damaging your light...especially LEDs.


Please explain. If the power from the stator is interrupted by a switch (in off state), how can the no-load output get to the LEDs to damage them?




Robert's answers are sort of what I'd expected (thanks Robert), not that I agree with the ultimate decisions. 


I don't buy the lawyer arguments, because not all snowblowers come with lights at all.


As for safety, I think they only help (during the day) if the light is aimed at the oncoming vehicle. All machines can use more lights, on all sides, to increase safety.


Mike


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

mikeinri said:


> Please explain. If the power from the stator is interrupted by a switch (in off state), how can the no-load output get to the LEDs to damage them?


The voltage will likely exceed the lamp's maximum at the moment the switch is flipped to activate the lamp.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

classiccat said:


> The voltage will likely exceed the lamp's maximum at the moment the switch is flipped to activate the lamp.


I've been off the site for a while. Belated thanks for this follow-up answer, makes sense.

Mike


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

classiccat said:


> The voltage will likely exceed the lamp's maximum at the moment the switch is flipped to activate the lamp.





mikeinri said:


> I've been off the site for a while. Belated thanks for this follow-up answer, makes sense.


Probably not correct, though... If that were true, every light bulb in the world would burn out every time a switch was turned on. In this case, the no-load voltage should fall within a range that the light itself is engineered to accept.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

tabora said:


> Probably not correct, though... If that were true, every light bulb in the world would burn out every time a switch was turned on. In this case, the no-load voltage should fall within a range that the light itself is engineered to accept.


It is correct; Transient voltage spike can be quite high from an unregulated inductive source. Not all power sources are created equal.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

But also largely irrelevant. _Every_ incandescent lamp has a current surgewhen first powered, since the resistance of the filament is much lower cold than when up to temp and on. The minor voltage difference in this example will only serve to warm it up a few thousandths of a second faster, but will be gone once the lamp gets to a steady state.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

tadawson said:


> But also largely irrelevant. _Every_ incandescent lamp has a current surgewhen first powered, since the resistance of the filament is much lower cold than when up to temp and on. The minor voltage difference in this example will only serve to warm it up a few thousandths of a second faster, but will be gone once the lamp gets to a steady state.


Ah...I think we talking about 2 different applications. Agree a W filament can withstand a wider range of conditions and tolerate the inductive reactance. But who on SBF hasn’t converted to LED?  I’ve measured switching spikes exceeding 50V with my fluke DVM coming off of a Tecumseh stator.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

classiccat said:


> coming off of a Tecumseh stator.


Oh, well Tecumseh, sure... But we're talking about Hondas here! 😈
No problems with my little gadget box in testing... I've been holding off mounting it until I get my HSS handlebar risers completed.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

tabora said:


> Oh, well Tecumseh, sure... But we're talking about Hondas here! 😈
> No problems with my little gadget box in testing... I've been holding off mounting it until I get my HSS handlebar risers completed.
> View attachment 172925


Nice switch box! Plenty of room in there for a regulator ! I think a lot of the lamps you buy today have built in regulators...just need to make sure the bridge can hang.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

Hey tabora,

Do you have a build thread for that thing? I'm very interested in what you used for the box / panel and base, as well as the gadget on the right side of the panel.

I'm assuming those are marine switches, but where do you have an "interior light" on your Honda???

BTW, Happy New Year, everyone!

Mike


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

mikeinri said:


> "interior light"


That was the closest "stock" switch I could come up with for the built-in HSS LED headlight. The symbol actually looks like it if you think of looking down on it when standing in front of the augers..


mikeinri said:


> Do you have a build thread


Here are some links:








After-market LEDs on hss928aatd.


I am using it to fire the relay on my big LED light, and without a relay on my small back-facing LED. I couldn't find a spec for the current available there, so I've asked Honda PE Customer Service... Apparently I was misinformed regarding the blue wire... Honda responded, "Voltage on the...




www.snowblowerforum.com












After-market LEDs on hss928aatd.


I finally picked up the lighting I want to add to my new Honda machine. With my old machine there was no battery, so I added a rectifier and capacitors and fuses to convert the 12vac off the engine to 12vdc. But since the new machine has a 12v battery, I'm now thinking I can just tap directly...




www.snowblowerforum.com












A few questions regarding HSS1332


Currently own an HSS622 and pondering the purchase of an HSS1332CTD. Had a chance to use a 724 for a couple wks. a couple seasons back. Loved the HST and found it hard going back to the 622. So, a dealer has the 1332CTD listed as being in stock. When I click on the link, it mentions in the...




www.snowblowerforum.com












A few questions regarding HSS1332


Currently own an HSS622 and pondering the purchase of an HSS1332CTD. Had a chance to use a 724 for a couple wks. a couple seasons back. Loved the HST and found it hard going back to the 622. So, a dealer has the 1332CTD listed as being in stock. When I click on the link, it mentions in the...




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

classiccat said:


> Ah...I think we talking about 2 different applications. Agree a W filament can withstand a wider range of conditions and tolerate the inductive reactance. But who on SBF hasn’t converted to LED?  I’ve measured switching spikes exceeding 50V with my fluke DVM coming off of a Tecumseh stator.


I'm on incand, considering taking mine off completely. I find snowblower lights useless and without purpose in my world . . . Never had a light on a blower prior to my Platinum (and then it wasn't a choice) and in 40+ years, never missed it either.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Yeah, I'm in agreement with tadawson, i never had a light on any of my older blowers, but on a Craftsman 10HP, I did upgrade the crap light that was there to an LED, just cause it was there.

That does not mean I don't think they are cool, and useful for people that are on a busy street or blow on a cloud covered night, but just that I never had a need for them.

Especially, now that I am retired, I don't snow blow at night anyways, also my street has street lights. The snows reflection at night is quite good in this area.


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

tadawson said:


> I'm on incand, considering taking mine off completely. I find snowblower lights useless and without purpose in my world . . . Never had a light on a blower prior to my Platinum (and then it wasn't a choice) and in 40+ years, never missed it either.


IMHO the lights are NOT to see better for most but to be seen, My old house was on a main road and the plows went by at a good speed, Having the light slowed the plows down many times when clearing the EOD and sidewalk, many times before I got the headlight I got buried clearing the sidewalk and was thankful I wasn’t on the EOD so in many cases the headlight does much more than help you see.


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

I have some unlighted areas of the yard that get blown, especially the far side of the garage and near the shed. My sidewalk is also long enough that the house lights don't help much. So, lights are pretty useful for me.

Thanks for the links, tabora!

Happy New Year, guys!

Mike


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

mikeinri said:


> So, lights are pretty useful for me.


For me, too! Where I live, the street lights are few and far between. We have floods up by the garage doors, but the ends of the drives are quite dark.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

tadawson said:


> I'm on incand, considering taking mine off completely. I find snowblower lights useless and without purpose in my world . . .
> 
> (Never had a light on a hlower prior to my Plat, and have never in 40+ years of use have I missed having one)





Dauntae said:


> IMHO the lights are NOT to see better for most but to be seen, My old house was on a main road and the plows went by at a good speed, Having the light slowed the plows down many times when clearing the EOD and sidewalk, many times before I got the headlight I got buried clearing the sidewalk and was thankful I wasn’t on the EOD so in many cases the headlight does much more than help you see.


Continuing to be a not-problem for me. In daylight, the blower/plume is clearly visible, and with the street being one block long, a passing car is rare . . . No such thing as a sidewalk, and the plow comes by the same time on days it snows, +/- maybe 15 minutes (6:30 AM or so, and I have never blown snow that early, much less been up at that hour by choice ), and is a fairly slow moving full size road grader.

May well pull the bulb on the Plat - the glare is orders of magnitude more annoying than any miniscule benefit _for me_. Had they just put a light switch on tne thing, it would be best of all worlds, but likely were advised by some cllueless ambulance chaser . . .


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

tadawson said:


> Had they just put a light switch on tne thing, it would be best of all worlds


It would probably take you 15 minutes and cost about $1.75...


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## mikeinri (Mar 16, 2015)

tabora said:


> For me, too! Where I live, the street lights are few and far between. We have floods up by the garage doors, but the ends of the drives are quite dark.


Right. In other places I've lived, there was always plenty of light from our house, nearby homes, etc.

But here, we have underground utilities and zero street lights. I was one if the first to put a light pole up at the end of our driveway, which helps a lot, but not enough.

Our lots are all around 1.25 acres (minimum), so the houses (and lights on them) are pretty spread out. My place is also directly across from a drainage pond, so we have no neighbors across the street.

I'm not worried about being hit (although one idiot neighbor managed to hit and kill another neighbor's dog in broad daylight). It's really about being able to see what I'm doing.

Mike


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Even with street lights etc I feel like the lights are necessary for safety alone. I personally never get to clean my property during the day time as getting home late means always having to clean it up before getting in the house and thats usually around 5~7 PM. With so many distractions that folks have these days while driving its best to have lights on all the time while using a snowblower. 

I gifted this peach of a Yamaha YS624 to my sister a few years back and had to use it the other day and almost felt naked without having any lights on the machine. If the lights cant help you they cant hurt either when it comes to safety and visibility.


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## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

tabora said:


> It would probably take you 15 minutes and cost about $1.75...
> View attachment 173017


Not concerned there, just not sure I want to break the paint film with a new hole for it . . . easier to just pull the bulb and call it good.


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