# Trying To Light Up My Ariens P24



## Blue Hill

I've been thinking about adding a light to my Platinum 24 on the chute, so that I can see where I'm putting my snow, not to mention the odd stone and chunks of frozen dog poo. 
I asked Ariens if my machine is putting out AC or DC to the existing light and the hand warmers, and how much wattage. All they said was, that the electrical system doesn't have enough power for an extra light. They never told me AC or DC. I have no doubt that there probably isn't a whole lot of extra juice after the hand warmers, which must be a fairly significant draw and the one incandescent light. I was figuring on using an LED light though, which wouldn't draw near as much as the incandescent bulb and If I were able to convert it to LED too, I might end up using less juice than the original design. I can understand where Ariens is coming from, because they don't know how big a light I was figuring on mounting and I certainly wouldn't want to damage my new machine, but I'm not quite willing to let this go yet.
I need to know the capacity of the charging coil. LCT says it is DC in the service manual and 60 watts AC in the parts manual. 
I have a multi-meter, but I'm more of a wrench puller and metal brasher than I am an electrician, so I'm not sure how to tell if it is putting out AC or DC. I need DC for the LED's unless I want to get complicated. I also need to know how much I can draw from the charging coil without the risk of damage. 
Any input folks?


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## loneraider

Dual lights on Ariens deluxe 28, factory light on the left side& added same light on the right ,plus I have Ariens heated grips too. No problems
that I can see/


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## detdrbuzzard

well if you can't get an answer from ariens regarding ac or dc power take a look at the bulb in the head light. it should tell you if its ac or dc, i guessing dc though


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## loneraider

Ariens snow blower light modification

Not sure if this helps you but it worked for this guy/


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## Blue Hill

Sounds like I don't have a real problem. I think I'll still go with LED though, at least for the new chute light. I changed out all of the lights in my camper trailer to LED's to save on juice when dry camping. Just as much light for hardly any battery drain.
Thanks fellers.


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## Snowmann

Coil is 12V 60W AC. Grips use 30W, light uses 20W. The LCT alternators run a smidgen more juice than the equivalent Briggs, although both are spec'd at 60W.


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## Blue Hill

Snowmann said:


> Coil is 12V 60W AC. Grips use 30W, light uses 20W. The LCT alternators run a smidgen more juice than the equivalent Briggs, although both are spec'd at 60W.


Thanks Snowmann! Now I know exactly where I stand and can do my research based on your information. The last thing I want to do is overload the coil and cause damage to my shiny new workmate.


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## Blue Hill

OK, so I've got 20 watts AC to work with, if I convert the existing light to an LED and run with two 10 watt LED's. The trouble is, LED's like DC current, so I have to figure out how to convert my 20 watts AC to DC without losing any. I might be hooped. 
Are there any snow blowing electrical engineers in the room?


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## loneraider

Ariens Snowblower Lighting & Light Bulb from RepairClinic.com

A list of ariens light bulbs & wattage.
the ones I use from the factory are 20 watts each.
A separate toogle switch to run the heated grips,
and another toggle to turn on the lights at night
without the heated grips on would keep you under
the 60 watts that your Ariens snowblower puts out.

Dave


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## TimY

Hey Blue Hill
I'm working on the same problem!!! It's the main reason I got on this forum,figured someone already solved this. Check my other post. I'm really glad I found this forum I've leaned so much and everyone is so willing to share what knowledge they have. I just picked up a 8-24 Toro 1998 year if that has 5 hrs on it I'd be surprised, still had nibs on tires with a Tec engine but no light and like you don't want to fry the stator. So I went looking for an add on light. Before that checked out a couple friends machines and was very disappointed with the light output. Toro wasn't a lot of help, they were happy to sell me a expensive light kit. I had a couple of problems with the placement of the light and figured that the light output wasn't adequate for my needs. Then I started to investigate LEDs seemed like the ticket except LEDs run on dc my stator puts out 18 watts (18 vAC at 1 amp no load) I'm no electrical engineer (what I do know I leaned when TVs had vacuum tubes) but I can add. I did find a 15 watt LED work light on amazon that puts out 1000 lumens seems adequate, and a made in USA LED rectifier ACtoDC converter all in a neat little sealed weatherproof package. There is a guy on Youtube set up his that way said he used a converter and a voltage regulator I'm assuming the regulator smooths the voltage out reducing flickering, I think, but he didn't provide any particulars or schematics.
The issue has been brought up about LEDs not heating up enough to keep the snow off the light.In my quest I did check out the low voltage LED landscape lights with a less wattage and aluminium housing similar what I found on amazon at the big box store. The housing was rather warm, not hot but warm. So I don't think it will be as much of an issue as one would think.
Back to the light. Since the blower didn't come with a light and Toro wasn't that forthcoming with the exact wattage I'm assuming like most of the ones I've seen it's in the 27 - 30 watt range. Now this is were I'm having trouble getting my head around a couple of issues 1. Toro's OEM light kit calls for a 7.5 amp inline fuse, why, seems like overkill for a stator that's only pushing 1 amp and it doesn't seem like it would protect the light at all. I'm beginning to think it's the case of "hey we got all those fuses in the back lets use them up" 2. If the stator is only putting out 18 watts how come all the OEM and aftermarket lights are of a higher wattage. You would think the manufactures should have figured this light situation out a long time ago. I mean really it's a snowblower you use them in winter, in winter you have more Dark than Light. Gees 
So this is as far as I've got, haven't tried it out yet.So if any one out there has done this and can give a breakdown of *exactly how to go about it or can point in the right direction lets hear about it. P.S. To all the Marines out there. an old Devil Doc says Happy Birthday*


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## Snowmann

Blue Hill said:


> I've been thinking about adding a light to my Platinum 24 on the chute, so that I can see where I'm putting my snow, not to mention the odd stone and chunks of frozen dog poo.
> Any input folks?


While I don't recommend modifications like this, the easiest way to achieve what you're looking for is to buy an Ariens pedestal light and harness part numbers 04136200 and 03881200 (you'd need to splice into the stock harness). Run it as-is to see if it doesn't drop the voltage too much. Might be OK depending on the stator variation. Better to run the engine toward the top of it's rated RPM range too (3700 RPM) to get the most out of the coil. If you turn the grips on with both lights illuminated and go into a dense drift to droop the engine and it dims out, then go get a 10W MR16 flood bulb to replace the one in the pedestal light and you'll drop enough amps to get there.


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## Blue Hill

Thanks Snowmann!
You are Da Best!


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## micah68kj

I'm thinking I'm just gonna get an inexpensive adjustable beam work light from Lowes. Comes w/3 yr. unconditional warranty. Thirty bucks. 
*AFTER ALL* ... I'm no Edison ( Right, Larry?)


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## dbert

TimY said:


> Now this is were I'm having trouble getting my head around a couple of issues 1. Toro's OEM light kit calls for a 7.5 amp inline fuse, why, seems like overkill for a stator that's only pushing 1 amp and it doesn't seem like it would protect the light at all.


I dont get it either, but if it make you feel any better the Techmseh Manual for the *3 amp alternator *also says;
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: Check the fuse to determine
if it is good. A continuity light or ohmmeter can detect a
faulty fuse. Replace with a *six (6) amp fuse* if necessary.


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## Blue Hill

micah68kj said:


> I'm thinking I'm just gonna get an inexpensive adjustable beam work light from Lowes. Comes w/3 yr. unconditional warranty. Thirty bucks.
> *AFTER ALL* ... I'm no Edison ( Right, Larry?)



{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252
{\fonttbl}
{\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;}
}

Picture of Joseph Swan.

I don't know if this picture will come through when I hit submit Joe.
But if you're no Edison, I was figuring then maybe Joe Swan. He was working on the light bulb BEFORE Edison.


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## TimY

You know guys this shouldn't be this difficult It's not like we're curing cancer. Is it just me or didn't the manufactures think the whole issue out very well. We're just trying to get better light on a machine that spends most of it's life in low light. I'm about ready to hang a kerosene lantern (or as my kids tell me my first flashlight) to the front of my blower.


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## TimY

P.S. dbert now its a 6 amp fuse I was right they were just using up stuff from the back room!!


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## loneraider

I think the lights I installed are the pedestal factory lights from Ariens.
20 watts each,put them on a separate toggle switch from the heated grips
if you go this route..I'll update as soon as the snowflies here in Ontario.


http://www.ariens.com/en-us/SeriesDo...20SPAG_web.pdf

2013 parts & acesseries web page


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## Blue Hill

I'm still leaning towards the LED lights. I like the idea of lots of light and minimal power draw. Something like these.


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## JRHAWK9

Blue Hill said:


> I'm still leaning towards the LED lights. I like the idea of lots of light and minimal power draw. Something like these.



The lights on our blowers use 12C AC current (at least my Pro 32 does), so you can't just wire those LED's in the circuit and expect them to work. At least from what I know anyway.


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## Blue Hill

I agree, I may be wrong, but I think the light it came with is a DC light, or am I totally out to lunch? Maybe an incandescent light with work on AC or DC but LED won't. I hadn't thought of that angle. Hmmm.


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## JRHAWK9

I thought it was a DC system too, until I tried metering it with my meter set on DC and got nothing. I then switched it to AC and it worked. The original incandescent lights will work with either AC or DC current.....the LED's you're looking at need DC current.


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## Blue Hill

O crap. . I was afraid you were going to say that. Good thing I never bought the LED's. Back to the drawing board. Thanks Hawk.


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## JRHAWK9

I actually liked your idea and was looking into LED's to use as well.......then it hit me.


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## nt40lanman

Why not "bridge" the problem...

BRIDGE RECTIFIER


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## JRHAWK9

nt40lanman said:


> Why not "bridge" the problem...
> 
> BRIDGE RECTIFIER


I knew someone would chime in with a solution who's smarter than I am. I know you could convert AC to DC, just didn't know what it all involved. Looks like it doesn't involve much! Thanks!


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## nt40lanman

Imagine how many LEDs there could be!!!!


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## Blue Hill

nt40lanman said:


> Why not "bridge" the problem...
> 
> BRIDGE RECTIFIER


Thanks lanman! That looks simple.


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## superedge88

nt40lanman said:


> Why not "bridge" the problem...
> 
> BRIDGE RECTIFIER


I used a bridge rectifier, works great, here's a video of the result




Super bright, no flicker, best snowblower upgrade I've done!


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## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> I used a bridge rectifier, works great, here's a video of the result. Super bright, no flicker, best snowblower upgrade I've done!


thanks for the video! That is pretty kick butt! What lights did you use? I thought about using -THESE-


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## TimY

Just what a bunch of us were looking for did you, need a voltage regulator also? did you use a fuse? switch? I have a 4 amp 50 volt from radio shack was just about to try Thanks


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## TimY

Just what a bunch of us were looking for.Did you use a voltage regulator? a fuse? a switch? Did you notice any difference in the light output at different RPMs ? I got a radio shack 
4 amp 50 volt rectifier, think that will do? Thank in advanced for any help Tim


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## Mr Fixit

*Engine accessories power explained*

I came here too late to help but I can enlighten now. AC refers to alternating current. That is a circuit where the positive, negative reverse. 
What we have on these engines is a magnet passing by a coil. That is like you flipping a switch on and off in a DC circuit at 3600 times a minute. You get very fast positive pulses. A rectifier, in electrical logic, seems incorrect. A capacitor stores pulses and creates a steady output much closer to a DC signal, in effect removing the ripple in the pulse current. I would select a 35 to 50 volt operating voltage. A filter capacitor sits after a rectifier in power supplies. Only an oscilloscope would demonstrate what is happening here. Try a 100µF at 50 volts. Go higher only if you must. Physical size increases as you need more storage value. Cost about $2.
capacitor.What does the Voltage Rating on a Capacitor Mean?

Install the (-) to ground inside your lamp frame. ( Component dimension 1 inch by 1/2 inch.) Actual size shown.

Now LED use incredibly small amounts of current. When I switched 12 volt bulbs in the first camper I converted I tried to find out fuse size limits. Finally I resorted to settling with the cheapest fuse. 2 amp. As you get below 2 amps, fuses get very expensive. I've never blown that fuse in my trailer nor in my (emergency) LED 12 volt lighting in my house. So your engine coil is safe with that safety device. 
I sure hope I made you more comfortable with this electricity topic.


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## TimY

First I apologize for the double post, operator error. Second to Superedge88 and Mr Fixit you help and input are greatly appreciated by me and I think by a lot of others in this forum. Personally I've tried to figure this out myself with mixed success so far. In theory and for some in practice LEDs are the way to go considering what limited power is available from the stator giving you a brighter light for the same amount of power. As long as that power is available you might as well use it verses a battery, duct taped flashlights etc. in other words a simple but elegant solution. So components should be easy to come by off the shelf as much as possible; Radio Shack, auto parts,farm supply ect. and reasonable. Without frying the stator. So far so good. I actually got my head around most of the basics. But like they say the devil is in the details. So for the benefit of myself and perhaps other electronically challenged individuals treat me like five year old ( at least for this exercise) draw me a picture ( at this point I prefer crayon ). So this is how far I've got so far I have one R S rectifier 4 amp 50 volts, one marine grade 12 vdc 20 amp toggle switch one weatherproof inline auto mini type fuse holder with 3 amp fuse. measured the output of stator 18v ac at 1 amp (pretty common for tec's others might be different) or 18 watts. So looking for a light/set of lights in the 15 to 18 watt range, haven't decided which one yet. Now here are my questions do I actually need a voltage regulator and capacitors? Would there be any major difference in any of the components for those who have higher voltage output from there machines? How much voltage drop should I expect from the the wire, switch, and fuse,ball park? Anything else that anyone could add would be helpful


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## Blue Hill

JRHAWK9 said:


> thanks for the video! That is pretty kick butt! What lights did you use? I thought about using -THESE-


First of all, welcome to SBF Superedge! Thanks for posting the video. A bunch of us have been scratching our heads about this one for a while. 

JRHAWK, those LED lights in your link were exactly what I was looking at too. My current headlight draws 20 watts, so if I have two of these 10 watt lights, I can replace my current headlight and mount the second one on the chute, so that I can see where I'm shootin' . No extra draw from the stator.


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## JRHAWK9

I ended up ordering those CREE 10W ones I linked to. I paid a bit more and ordered them from the place in CA though and not China. I also picked up a bridge rectifier. I already have my headlight switched, but I think I'm going to replace my current SPST switch with a SPDT center off switch so I can either have LED's ON, both OFF, or stock headlight ON but not both ON at the same time. This will still allow me to use my handwarmers w/o worrying about what lights are on and accidentally frying my stator.


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## dbert

Superedge88. We need to see some photos or drawings of your bridge connections. We can see that it works, but I want to know how. I started drawing Tim a picture with my crayons (ms paint). Then I realized I dont think a full wave rectifier will work. This is a turnaround from the I told you it would work opinion I had earlier. The magneto/alternator is grounded on one side and there is no way to isolate the negative input to the bridge from the ground. In other words what makes your installation different from a single inline diode half wave rectifier? 
Sorry Tim, I am backpeddling here, but once I actually put the crayon on paper and looked at it for a moment I changed my mind.


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## JRHAWK9

I'm actually trying to decide between a spot (8 degree) and flood (>30 degree). Any recommendations?

I cancelled the Amazon order for those other ones as they were only 8 degree and I wanted to weight my other options.


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## TimY

Del
Nice pic   The way I see it the rectifier has four prongs from left to right +dc ac ac -dc
So wouldn't be wired; power from stator to one of the ac prongs neg ground to the other ac prong +dc to pos to pos on light -dc to neg on light










https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1UvONuZCf7amxasJuKokXkW8GvM_sUGfPWtuyBoztKYE/edit?usp=sharing


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## JRHAWK9

All you do is take your two AC leads and wire them up to the two marked AC on the rectifier and then the two DC leads get wired up to the + and - on the lights.


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## dbert

JRHAWK9 said:


> All you do is take your two AC leads and wire them up to the two marked AC on the rectifier and then the two DC leads get wired up to the + and - on the lights.


You have two AC leads (+&-)?
I thought it was just one with the neutral grounded to the engine block.
http://www.ebay.com/Tecumseh-18-watt-alternator-lights-snowblower


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## TimY

Thanks JRHAWK9 I was hoping that was the way that got wired---( like the pic in my last post)cause I just got done soldering that teeny tiny little thing up. It's amazing that all I needed was no bigger than my thumbnail  . Hey just on a side note JRHAWK99 did you put that in a box or just shrink tube that rectifier . Everyone thanks for the help and happy Thanksgiving Tim


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## dbert

TimY said:


> Del
> Nice pic   The way I see it the rectifier has four prongs from left to right +dc ac ac -dc
> So wouldn't be wired; power from stator to one of the ac prongs neg ground to the other ac prong +dc to pos to pos on light -dc to neg on light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1UvONuZCf7amxasJuKokXkW8GvM_sUGfPWtuyBoztKYE/edit?usp=sharing


Your saying keep the DC isolated so the neg DC wire only connects to the LED, never the chassis? Maybe that will work. Actually it makes my head hurt and I just wish I owned something with a stator so I could try it and see.

I found this discussion and they are saying you need an isolation transformer to isolate the AC input.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages


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## dbert

i reread that thread I linked to above. It does say you can float the DC circuit (vs isolation transformer on AC side). So wire it with the DC LED negative not grounded anywhere. That does mean two wires from rectifier to each lamp assy.


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## TimY

Del 
We need superedge88 to chime in here he actually got it to work (I think maybe) what that discussion is essentially about is getting a specific voltage we are just dealing with what we got and fitting the Light to it (again I think, time for an aspirin) anyway on the for the lack of a better term the 'normal' light circuit power comes from the the stator through the light and back to the ground or chassis to complete the circuit. Incandescent bulbs are like dogs they will eat dog food and cat food. LEDs are like cats they only eat cat food,at least in my house. So the rectifier keeps all the electrons flowing in one direction won't let them turn around, thus making cat food out of dog food.Sorry for the metaphor, really couldn't help myself. But we still have to complete the circuit.The reason for the four prongs on the rectifier (I think, were is that aspirin)


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## TimY

Del 
superedge88 Has how he has his wired on the Crapsman light thread.Seems to work I'm taking my aspirin and going to bed. Again happy Thanksgiving Tim


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## Mr Fixit

*LED power sources.*

Even I'm getting a headache guys! Forty years in electronics wasn't this difficult! LOL Before we can design we need specs. Sounds like this power is originating from an alternator? Not the simple snow blower light circuit then. Actually we DON"T know. I always try to keep things simple when building projects. Look at this information stuff attached. I found a simple replacement bulb for your original lights. Just bayonet 1156 bulbs. Also found circuit diagrams that you can work with and study. This is simple stuff as you'll see. Look at the specs. for LED. 
You need good test equipment to make any claims here and not guesses. I'm trying to keep you grounded. LOL Had to say that. 
My schooling was spikes damage LED and excessive heat. I could talk about zener diode but,, enough confusion.
Simply? So put in one diode, TRY a filter capacitor to improve that current if you don't have a battery as a filter. Check my info. out below.

Sunfire Systems LED bulbs
Then,,
http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/briggs/briggswiringexplanation.pdf


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## Snowmann

To clarify further, the 60W coil on the Ariens is AC, unregulated, and obviously unrectified. Pull more than 60W and the voltage drops off and browns out everything. Also, if you pull too little current, the voltage will spike and cook small current draw devices. 

A simple diode bridge will produce a power ripple and not clean AC. You'll need a capacitor clean this up. The bridge has a parasitic draw and will reduce the power available for devices.

Much better idea to scrap the DC conversion and work with the AC.


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## TimY

Aaagh!!! Well I'm not ready to give up on LEDs yet. Here's what I did that this morning couldn't spend a lot of time wife giving the look we better not be late so quick, my meter isn't top of the line so checked ac first got 19.4 volt ac, my buddy's super meter got 18 vac wired up the rectifier, fuse, switch, ran blower full rpm put meter on got 24.3 vdc with some fluctuation .03 to.07 vdc. Some of that fluctuation may be due to me being in a hurry or trying to hang on to everything while the machine was running but that's what I have so far. Time to eat a bird. Happy Thanksgiving Tim


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## Mr Fixit

*LED trial set up*

Hi Tim. Your numbers seem dead on. The voltage drift likely would be smaller if your connections were all soldered on. 
There was an 1980's alternator Ford or GM made that had a voltage regulator PCB on the back end of the alternator. If you could snag one of these free you could get a perfect 14.83 volt output from that by feeding your ~ in. Everything would be self contained and way higher amperage specs. then you need here. It would be perfect here.
If you feed a LED with a spec limit of 30 volt DC from what you wrote up here, you are pushing things at +24 volts. Test run it and if it gets warmer it's too high. It'll get brighter of course. As you state the spikes that you don't see using your test equipment could come to bear here. As I keep boring you with this, only a scope would show you the peak volts. Actually I'm amazed what you are willing to tackle here. I'd love to be there on this.
Or for experimenting sake. A zener doide could be installed across in front of the lamp. I'd suggest 20 volts, max. 24 volts. Nothing would get past higher then that rating to your LED lamp. For $1. 
Basics: Introduction to Zener Diodes | Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories


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## dbert

Spinning permanent magnets by a coil of wire is the most basic (primitive/crude) means of creating electricity that I know of. On the other hand an incandescent bulb is one of the simplest user of flowing electrons that I think of. Tim I loved your dog/cat thing. Made me laugh and its a perfect analogy. Alternating current (AC) goes both positive and negative as the magnets pass the coils. An incandescent bulb does not care if the electrons flow back and forth or in just one direction. As long as it's moving the filament glows. A diode only allows electrons to flow in one direction. A check valve for electrons. A Light Emitting Diode is still a diode and only emits light when current is flowing positive to negative. A full wave rectifier diverts the negative voltage in AC current toward the positive side. A capacitor is good for smoothing out the minor pulsing that is there, but for lighting as long as you cant detect the pulsing with your eyes it's unnecessary. 
There is a reason they are banning incandescent bulbs, they waste a lot of energy as heat. There will be a small voltage loss going through the rectifier, but the lumens per watt are much higher with LEDs and power lost fully rectifying the AC to the DC LEDs crave is worth it.
best
Del


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## TimY

OK now that the trytopane has wore off I'm up to tackle this again. My main goal started to be perfectly honest was personal. Trying to avoid any further near death at the EOD,besides the wife says I can't die till my list is done .I figured someone already had this figured out here's what you need here's how to wire it Bam we're done. But judging from the number of views this thread has got we've hit on something (manufactures are you listening).
So thank you Mr. Fixit, Del Blue hill and everyone else that has helped try to figure this out, we're close. So where and how do you wire that diode in the circuit remember ing range crayon pictures  and is one really necessary considering the operating range of the light fixtures or am I missing something Tim P.S. One of my most memorable Thanksgivings I ate turkey from a green tin can, so take a second and say a prayer for our Service members, Vets and their family's.So much of what we are thankful today is because of their sacrifice.


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## TimY

Del,
This scary I'm actually starting to understand this. There's a long story behind the dog/cat thing suffice to say if they made dog food apparently taste like cat food I wouldn't go broke feeding both. you explained it beautifully the D in led stands for diode and that's important to remember polarity in wiring any of the light fixtures. A friend of mine who's a physics teacher tried to explain how you get 24 vdc from 18 vac and gave up (don't even try,like trying to teach a pig to sing thing) I just accept it don't understand it but I saw it so I accept it. But he can't build a cabinet so we're even!! And your right as long as we don't fry the stator or blow the light fixture to kingdom come I think we are good to go. As far as I can tell the worst thing that might happen is shortening the life of the fixture from an average of 30,000 to what? I mean that's 3 years+ 24/7 But for a $1 it might be cheap insurance. Tim


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## dbert

Tim
Ok we have 18 watts. Tell me what fixtures you have or are thinking of having and I will bust out the crayons. Some of this will remain experimental, but I really don't have concerns of permanently damaging the stator. We should try to start with a load that will still illuminate at low power and not blow any LEDs at high RPM. Just a gut SWAG... I'd say start with 12 watts and add another smaller fixture one at a time until they stop working at low RPM due to lack of voltage.


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## superedge88

I'm very sorry that I didn't know that I had so many responses to my post, I guess that I didn't have email notifications turned on for this thread.
Ok, so to answer most of the questions.
No, I didn't use a voltage regulator, since the LED foglights that I used are rated for 9-32volts
The bridge rectifier is hooked up with the single headlight circuit wire as to one of the AC inputs, the other AC input is connected to the metal of the snowblower frame.
The foglights I used for this install are these
2X 9W LED Work Light Flood Offroad Driving Fog Lamp Spot 12V 24V Save on 18W 27W | eBay
I used a 5 amp fuse inline between the foglights and the bridge rectifier ( If I somehow fry the bridge rectifier I will just replace it)
18 watts at 18 volts is just inside the threshold rating of the headlight circuit of my snowblower which is ~1amp conservatively.
I work for the next three days without any free time during the daylight, so I will try to get a video of the wiring of my install early next week.
I will now read through some of the other posts that weren't necessarily directed to me as questions in case I can help out.


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## superedge88

dbert said:


> Superedge88. We need to see some photos or drawings of your bridge connections. We can see that it works, but I want to know how. I started drawing Tim a picture with my crayons (ms paint). Then I realized I dont think a full wave rectifier will work. This is a turnaround from the I told you it would work opinion I had earlier. The magneto/alternator is grounded on one side and there is no way to isolate the negative input to the bridge from the ground. In other words what makes your installation different from a single inline diode half wave rectifier?
> Sorry Tim, I am backpeddling here, but once I actually put the crayon on paper and looked at it for a moment I changed my mind.


The drawing is not correct, but I do see the logic. Instead it should look like this 

The negative off of the bridge rectifier and the headlight circuit coming from the Alternator don't actually connect, I don't want to confuse anyone with my poor drawing.


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## superedge88

Snowmann said:


> To clarify further, the 60W coil on the Ariens is AC, unregulated, and obviously unrectified. Pull more than 60W and the voltage drops off and browns out everything. Also, if you pull too little current, the voltage will spike and cook small current draw devices.
> 
> A simple diode bridge will produce a power ripple and not clean AC. You'll need a capacitor clean this up. The bridge has a parasitic draw and will reduce the power available for devices.
> 
> Much better idea to scrap the DC conversion and work with the AC.


You're stating that a simple diode bridge will cause a "power ripple and not clean AC" please explain since the rectifier is not producing AC voltage, it's producing DC voltage.
The bridge will have a tiny parasitic draw, nothing to be too worried about as long as you aren't pushing much beyond the "rating" of your headlight circuit (which will always err on the conservative)
The main specification you'll want to make sure of with the lighting you purchase is that it can be used well above the voltage present at the bridge rectifier which is 18v DC for me (was 18v AC before rectification) My foglights are rated for almost double that, so I'm in the clear.
This wiring quandry is one that can be very daunting at first, but once you have the DC voltage, you are in the clear, fuse, connect and you're good to go as long as you aren't asking for more amperage than the headlight circuit can provide.


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## superedge88

As a side note, make sure that lighting that you do get is a FLOOD style of light, a typical spot light has a far too narrow throw dispersion to be used effectively with the distances (short distances) that we are using them for, a 90+ degree beam pattern is good for our application. In the video you can really tell how narrow the beam pattern is at the distances we are needing illumination.




A little invite to anyone that lives in the Twin Cities, if you would like help wiring up your snowblower headlights I would be more than happy to help out in person and assist in the install. I'm a tinkering addict and love modifying electronics!


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## Mr Fixit

*LED Component power set up*










You got this hook up but add the filter cap. (c) to change your DC current from the pink look of the wave. Take it from pink pulses to a more flat (black) line ripply kind of voltage sine by adding a capacitor. Fuse your input side to max 4 amp 1st fuse if 60 watt stator. Put your switch next to the 1st fuse. The lower ~ will be your frame. The output - will be your frame. Your capacitor, start with a 100 mfd at 50 volts. Fuse the output + to the LED by a 2 amp 2nd fuse. Due to the rough environment I'd use a weather proof component box mounted safe by you controls I guess. Start with this set up. If things fail, your fuses will save the day and we can tinker changes. Load the circuit (LED lamps) till a fuse fails. Don't use slow-blow fuses. Good luck.


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## superedge88

Mr Fixit said:


> You got this hook up but add the filter cap. (c) to change your DC current from the pink look of the wave. Take it from pink pulses to a more flat (black) line ripply kind of voltage sine by adding a capacitor. Fuse your input side to max 4 amp 1st fuse if 60 watt stator. Put your switch next to the 1st fuse. The lower ~ will be your frame. The output - will be your frame. Your capacitor, start with a 100 mfd at 50 volts. Fuse the output + to the LED by a 2 amp 2nd fuse. Due to the rough environment I'd use a weather proof component box mounted safe by you controls I guess. Start with this set up. If things fail, your fuses will save the day and we can tinker changes. Load the circuit (LED lamps) till a fuse fails. Don't use slow-blow fuses. Good luck.


The capacitor in this situation is definitely playing things very safe, The small amount of ripple/noise in the waveform shouldn't be anything worry about when running LEDs, especially in my situation where it is very unlikely that I am seeing ripple that would exceed the voltage rating of my LED foglights. Use the capacitor or not, shouldn't be any difference in this application. But that's just my opinion.


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## Mr Fixit

*capacitor*

Hi Tim
You're at the LED test bench for the group. Maybe at a later date you could try installing the $3 capacitor momentarily. Tell us the change in the DC voltage and if it made a difference in your LED brightness at all. We're all looking for better lumen using LED's after all. No stone unturned? LOL Your choice of course.
It's possible these LED come with components built in we know not about too that protect the lamp and filter current in.


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## nt40lanman

You guys are making this too complicated. The bridge does output a bit of ripple in the DC but the LEDs tolerate it fine. The voltage will vary because of the simple nature of the unregulated generating mechanism in the engine but the LEDs tolerate that also. You'd only really need a filtering capacitor for sensitive electronics or audio applications.


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## superedge88

nt40lanman said:


> You guys are making this too complicated. The bridge does output a bit of ripple in the DC but the LEDs tolerate it fine. The voltage will vary because of the simple nature of the unregulated generating mechanism in the engine but the LEDs tolerate that also. You'd only really need a filtering capacitor for sensitive electronics or audio applications.


I concur.


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## TimY

Everyone is right. Lets KISS as soon as I ran the mock up I knew I was pretty much done it's just a matter of small details. nt40lanman thanks for your input, correct IT'S just a light not a computer, a cell phone, or GPS unit. My goal was get more light and not blow anything up( I just hate when that $#!+ happens) Mr Fixit thanks for your help. Superedge88, torence,you guys got there first my hats off to you. Bluehill I hope you got your answer. Del thank you so much for the education, your patience,moral support, crayon drawings,and aspirin I really appreciate it. I'll keep everyone updated but things are getting busy so might be a little while. So superedge88 it's on you for now. Help them out with the wiring diagrams , remember crayons only. 
Now for my next idea anyone got any thoughts on a windshield wiper system for my cab


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## Blue Hill

TimY said:


> Everyone is right. Lets KISS as soon as I ran the mock up I knew I was pretty much done it's just a matter of small details. nt40lanman thanks for your input, correct IT'S just a light not a computer, a cell phone, or GPS unit. My goal was get more light and not blow anything up( I just hate when that $#!+ happens) Mr Fixit thanks for your help. Superedge88, torence,you guys got there first my hats off to you. Bluehill I hope you got your answer. Del thank you so much for the education, your patience,moral support, crayon drawings,and aspirin I really appreciate it. I'll keep everyone updated but things are getting busy so might be a little while. So superedge88 it's on you for now. Help them out with the wiring diagrams , remember crayons only.
> Now for my next idea anyone got any thoughts on a windshield wiper system for my cab


You folks have been great!!! I had some misconceptions about this project that I've been steered clear of and I'm pretty sure I know which way to go. 
The best part of this thread though, was the explanation that compared AC and DC current to dogs and cats and what they will eat. LMAO. If I live to be a hundred I'll never forget how to differentiate between incandescent and LED .


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## superedge88

TimY said:


> Everyone is right. Lets KISS as soon as I ran the mock up I knew I was pretty much done it's just a matter of small details. nt40lanman thanks for your input, correct IT'S just a light not a computer, a cell phone, or GPS unit. My goal was get more light and not blow anything up( I just hate when that $#!+ happens) Mr Fixit thanks for your help. Superedge88, torence,you guys got there first my hats off to you. Bluehill I hope you got your answer. Del thank you so much for the education, your patience,moral support, crayon drawings,and aspirin I really appreciate it. I'll keep everyone updated but things are getting busy so might be a little while. So superedge88 it's on you for now. Help them out with the wiring diagrams , remember crayons only.
> Now for my next idea anyone got any thoughts on a windshield wiper system for my cab


My pleasure, I will help in any way I can.


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## boborc

I don't want to sound like a fool here but just for curiosity what would happen if I put a H11 LED bulb in the socket of a deluxe 28 with one of those in the dash rectangle lights.


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## superedge88

boborc said:


> I don't want to sound like a fool here but just for curiosity what would happen if I put a H11 LED bulb in the socket of a deluxe 28 with one of those in the dash rectangle lights.


You'll get half of the light output possible because the LED will be flickering. If you add a bridge rectifier you can then get full light output without flickering. And by the looks of many of the available H11 LED bulbs, most of them are novelty at best, with minimal lumens to actually light your path.


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## JRHAWK9

superedge88, I have two wires coming off of my stator and obviously have two wires connecting to the stock light bulb. I'm assuming I can use either one of those wires to connect to the rectifier? Then the other AC terminal on the rectifier goes to the frame? 

Right now I already have one of those wires to the light bulb on a SPST switch in order to turn the light off and on. My plan was to add a SPDT switch in place of the SPST switch so I can run either the stock headlight -OR- my LED's, but NOT both at the same time.. So all I would do is take the lead from the additional terminal on the SPDT switch and wire it up to one of the AC terminals on the rectifier. Then I would just ground the other AC terminal found on the rectifier to the frame. Does this sound correct?


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## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> superedge88, I have two wires coming off of my stator and obviously have two wires connecting to the stock light bulb. I'm assuming I can use either one of those wires to connect to the rectifier? Then the other AC terminal on the rectifier goes to the frame?
> 
> Right now I already have one of those wires to the light bulb on a SPST switch in order to turn the light off and on. My plan was to add a SPDT switch in place of the SPST switch so I can run either the stock headlight -OR- my LED's, but NOT both at the same time.. So all I would do is take the lead from the additional terminal on the SPDT switch and wire it up to one of the AC terminals on the rectifier. Then I would just ground the other AC terminal found on the rectifier to the frame. Does this sound correct?


Pictures are worth a thousand words, if I understand you correctly you are stating that the existing headlight doesn't have a wire that goes to the frame? Why do you need to be able to run either your stock headlight or your LED's, did I miss an explanation earlier? 
You can definitely do what you're stating, and if I follow your written wiring explanation correctly I believe you have it right. Draw a picture of what you are thinking and post it, and I'll make any changes if needed. Glad to help.


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## JRHAWK9

I'm working on one now.....
I am used to a DC mindset, where there is a distinct positive and negative. If I'm thinking of this correct, I could technically cut EITHER one of the stock wires going to the stock headlight and ground one of them.....??


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## JRHAWK9

HHere's my crude sketch.....


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## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> I'm working on one now.....
> I am used to a DC mindset, where there is a distinct positive and negative. If I'm thinking of this correct, I could technically cut EITHER one of the stock wires going to the stock headlight and ground one of them.....??


No.
Do you have a digital multimeter? If so then switch it to continuity test, with your snowblower off attach one lead to the metal of the snowblower, then with your other lead probe either of the two wires that go into your headlight. Whichever one beeps to show continuity is the one that is connected at some point to the frame of the snowblower. I'll revisit this thread after work tomorrow and see if you've had luck posting a pic of your circuit.


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## JRHAWK9

OK, I do have one and that's what I planned to do to make sure. I figured one of them went to ground. My luck I switched the ground and not the actual AC lead.


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## boborc

Do you think any of these dual alternators on here will drop into a 11.50 briggs then it would just be a wiring thing??I have no idea if it would work but the 698314 is an alternate # in my motor manual. They are like 50-60 bucks if you shop around. Doesn't seem to hard to change the alternator 
http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/alternator_id.pdf


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## JRHAWK9

OK, just got back in from metering around. There are two wires coming from the stator running up to supply power to the stock headlight and hand warmers. I removed the headlight from the system. I metered between the two wires at the headlight and the two wires coming out of the stator. They had continuity between the like color wires. I tried finding continuity between either of the two wires and the frame or motor and didn't find anything. I also didn't see any point of ground along the handle anywhere. What it looks like to me is the grounds for the headlight/hand warmers run back down to the stator. 

I have attached my new wiring diagram. Does this make sense?


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## boborc

has anyone tried the sears AA battery one,is it bright enough?No problems with this
Sears.com


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## GustoGuy

superedge88 said:


> I used a bridge rectifier, works great, here's a video of the result
> LED lights for your snowblower that don't flicker! - YouTube
> Super bright, no flicker, best snowblower upgrade I've done!


Very nice. This will be a nice mod to blow snow espcially if you are in an area that has no street lights or outdoor lights.


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## dbert

JRHAWK9 said:


> snip
> 
> I have attached my new wiring diagram. Does this make sense?


Am I the only one not seeing JRHAWK9's pictures?


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## JRHAWK9

dbert said:


> Am I the only one not seeing JRHAWK9's pictures?



really?! I can see them just fine.....even the one you just quoted.


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## superedge88

dbert said:


> Am I the only one not seeing JRHAWK9's pictures?


I'm not seeing anything either.


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## JRHAWK9

I'll reattach it.

This is my plan. I'm also planning on putting a 2amp fuse on each LED light as well as a 4amp fuse on the lead from my stator going into the rectifier.


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## Blue Hill

I got the picture this time hawk.


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## dbert

JRHAWK9 said:


> OK, just got back in from metering around. There are two wires coming from the stator running up to supply power to the stock headlight and hand warmers. I removed the headlight from the system. I metered between the two wires at the headlight and the two wires coming out of the stator. They had continuity between the like color wires. I tried finding continuity between either of the two wires and the frame or motor and didn't find anything. I also didn't see any point of ground along the handle anywhere. What it looks like to me is the grounds for the headlight/hand warmers run back down to the stator.
> 
> I have attached my new wiring diagram. Does this make sense?


It's interesting that you have an isolated neutral wire from your stator (not grounded to chassis). Perhaps you have a higher watt alternator since you have both lights and hand warmers and they are different. What are the colors of your two AC wires coming from the stator?


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## JRHAWK9

The two wires coming directly out of the stator are actually both black. They then connect to the wiring harness for the heated handles/light. One of the wires turns yellow and the other is black at this connection.


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## dbert

Interesting. Is this a Tecumseh powered snow blower? Make and vintage?


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## JRHAWK9

nope, it's a "Briggs" 420cc OHV found on the newer Ariens Pro series.


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## JRHAWK9

I found the wiring diagram for mine, it came from the IPL for my machine. According to this everything is grounded, but that's not what I found. I have TWO wires coming out of my stator and running up to the control panel. I also don't have a DC wire. I'm assuming that's only for the 12V DC models.


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## dbert

edit:
Doh. Sorry I didn't fully read what you said, just looked at the schematic.
NM


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## superedge88

JRHAWK9 said:


> I'll reattach it.
> 
> This is my plan. I'm also planning on putting a 2amp fuse on each LED light as well as a 4amp fuse on the lead from my stator going into the rectifier.


That plan looks correct. Why are you wanting to keep the stock headlight?


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## dbert

What type lamp is in the stock headlight? Can the bulb be replaced with an LED and operated along with your add-on lights?
Example-
10 SMD T10 Canbus LED Bulb 2 PCS - White
Not sure about drivers in this type and tolerance to voltage range. Yeah, more untested and experimental suggestions. 
I get you want to utilize a nifty looking light assy that is integrated into the panel, but if you are going to LED lighting then you should consider going to LED lighting inside this lens. Then again, you can always flip a switch and be back in original condition the way you have it drawn.


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## superedge88

dbert said:


> What type lamp is in the stock headlight? Can the bulb be replaced with an LED and operated along with your add-on lights?
> Example-
> 10 SMD T10 Canbus LED Bulb 2 PCS - White
> Not sure about drivers in this type and tolerance to voltage range. Yeah, more untested and experimental suggestions.
> I get you want to utilize a nifty looking light assy that is integrated into the panel, but if you are going to LED lighting then you should consider going to LED lighting inside this lens. Then again, you can always flip a switch and be back in original condition the way you have it drawn.


Those bulbs are much too low in lumens to be anything more than a novelty bulb, or a marker bulb. Cool idea in theory, but the lumens are just not there.


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## JRHAWK9

superedge88 said:


> That plan looks correct. Why are you wanting to keep the stock headlight?


good deal. thanks.

Seeing I already have a hole drilled in my panel for a switch I may as well run a switch, if I run a switch and already have the wiring set for the stock headlight I may as well get a switch that will allow me to use my stock headlight if I choose. I mainly want it useable just in case something happens to my LED setup while I'm out blowing. This way I have a backup light which will allow me to finish things up. Most of my blowing is done at night when I get home from work, and we live in a rural area so it's dark-dark. I also have to blow out the neighbors. I have about 6,000 SF total to blow out.


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## superedge88

As was suggested, I created a thread dedicated to snowbower LED lighting upgrades, I had some problems editing it, but have contacted a moderator about that, so I'm sure it will just get better! We can use that thread to post pictures and videos of our upgrades, and general questions of course. I am in need of a simple detailed drawing of a wiring schematic (including fuses) since what I would draw is a crude picture and then have to take a picture of that which doesn't look very clean and understandable. Here's the link
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...rading-your-snowblower-lights-led-lights.html


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## JRHAWK9

Below is a video I just took demonstrating the two LED 30° spots installed and comparing them to the stock headlight.


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## EuroStyle

Wow, JR Hawk....that is an amazing difference! I have been following this thread and contemplating what to do on my Compact 24. For now I just installed a higher wattage 881 bulb and ordered a waterproof toggle swtich. Now that I see the difference in beam (or lack of it on the OEM) I am paying more attention. Can you post a photo of the switch you installed? Did you go with a 3 way to toggle OEM, LED and off?

Also, I got confused with this tread...which LED units did you buy? I assume you made the outrigger mounts...



Sean


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## JRHAWK9

EuroStyle said:


> Wow, JR Hawk....that is an amazing difference! I have been following this thread and contemplating what to do on my Compact 24. For now I just installed a higher wattage 881 bulb and ordered a waterproof toggle swtich. Now that I see the difference in beam (or lack of it on the OEM) I am paying more attention. Can you post a photo of the switch you installed? Did you go with a 3 way to toggle OEM, LED and off?
> 
> Also, I got confused with this tread...which LED units did you buy? I assume you made the outrigger mounts...
> 
> 
> 
> Sean


After watching it, the LED's are much "whiter" in person than what the video shows. Both lights are also actually brighter in person, but the video does a good job at showing the difference between the two and is what I was trying to accomplish with the video. 

A few of the parts I purchased can be found at the link below. I used a SPDT (ON-OFF-ON) switch. When it's moved to the top the LED's are on, moved to the middle all are off, moved to the bottom the stock light is on.

I now have another SPST switch wired up as a "high beam" to where I will be installing another pair of LED lights as my "high beams". I will be using the floods as my main LED light and then using my 30° spots (the ones currently installed) as my high beams. The high beams will only work when the main light switch is set to the LED's. I'll have my choice of stock light, floods only or floods + spots. I plan on letting the floods take care of the lighting immediately in front of the machine and then aiming the spots to take care of the lighting more out in front. Overkill?? yeah, pretty much, but that's the fun part....lol I am also curious to see if the single 2amp fuse on my AC supply line will work with all four lights lit up. 

Yes, I made the mounts using aluminum square tubing. I used nylon bushings ground to size to fill the gap when bolting the tubing up in order not to compress the tubing and so I could get the bolts nice and tight. 

Once I get everything done I will post my pictures, probably in the thread which was stickied. I will also post another video when I get the "brights" installed.


http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/60674-post13.html


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## EuroStyle

No such thing as overkill in my book, vision is _not_ over rated at nite, in the snow! Thanks for your notes, I'll be watching for the finished shots....


Sean


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## 90trunk

Mr Fixit said:


> You got this hook up but add the filter cap. (c) to change your DC current from the pink look of the wave. Take it from pink pulses to a more flat (black) line ripply kind of voltage sine by adding a capacitor. Fuse your input side to max 4 amp 1st fuse if 60 watt stator. Put your switch next to the 1st fuse. The lower ~ will be your frame. The output - will be your frame. Your capacitor, start with a 100 mfd at 50 volts.


I have my 15w LED light and two yellow marker lights up and running, so I'm going to add a cap to clean up any voltage ripple. Thanks for including the specs for the cap in your post.

Regards,

Craig


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## jobes

I'm going to have a try at it with one of these
18w LED Spot Work Light : Amazon.com : Automotive


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## 90trunk

jobes said:


> I'm going to have a try at it with one of these
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZPI0NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1




I purchased the 15w version of that light via Amazon. I think you'll be pleased.


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## jobes

How did you mount?


90trunk said:


> I purchased the 15w version of that light via Amazon. I think you'll be pleased.


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## 90trunk

jobes said:


> How did you mount?


Very short video of my install:






I mounted the LED headlamp above the stock headlight location and added the LED marker lamps on the side. This Tecumseh has the 18w lighting alternator, so I should be close to maxed out. Lighting was sourced from Amazon and the full wave bridge rectifier came from Radio Shack. I did not install a switch on the lights. I did replace the supplied headlight mounting hardware with 5/16-18 stainless steel bolts, washers, and nyloc nuts. I have a capacitor to add to the lighting circuit in the future to see if that smooths out some of the voltage ripple.

Radio Shack Bridge Rectifier:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584

Amazon LED Marker Lights
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L04YCK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Amazon LED 15w Headlight:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1FTKJM/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Sorry about the MTD and her not being a member of Team Orange. She was a Craigslist deal that was too good to pass on. I've added a Tiny Tach, ArmorSkids, and a Clarence Impeller Kit to it. My Honda 621 thinks I'm paying too much attention to the enemy...


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## 90trunk

Very short video of the LEDs at night in front of the garage:






Video of light output from the operator point of view. You can see the reflective street signs on the corner become visible when the lamp is uncovered.






I also added a capacitor to the lighting circuit tonight. I didn't notice the flickering of the lights as seen in the first video I took of the them operating that is linked in my previous post. Thanks to all of the lighting thread posters for sharing their knowledge.


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## JRHAWK9

EuroStyle said:


> No such thing as overkill in my book, vision is _not_ over rated at nite, in the snow! Thanks for your notes, I'll be watching for the finished shots....
> 
> 
> Sean



Thought I'd update this thread for those not watching the other thread. Below is my post in the other thread with the link to the most recent video:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/89746-post78.html


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## enigma-2

Snowmann said:


> Coil is 12V 60W AC. Grips use 30W, light uses 20W. The LCT alternators run a smidgen more juice than the equivalent Briggs, although both are spec'd at 60W.


Hey Snowmann, isn't it 60 watts AC on the yellow & 36 watts pulsating DC on the red (which is not fed past the harness connector.) Dropping the 30 w for the grips, and it seems (to me at least), that one could rig up a total 66 watts for lighting. You agree?


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## MnJim

90trunk said:


> I purchased the 15w version of that light via Amazon. I think you'll be pleased.


 I ordered the 15watt version as well but when the pkg arrived the box was marked 18watt. OH well its still under 20watts


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## JSmith856

loneraider said:


> Ariens deluxe 28 - YouTube
> 
> I think the lights I installed are the pedestal factory lights from Ariens.
> 20 watts each,put them on a separate toggle switch from the heated grips
> if you go this route..I'll update as soon as the snowflies here in Ontario.
> 
> 
> http://www.ariens.com/en-us/SeriesDo...20SPAG_web.pdf
> 
> 2013 parts & acesseries web page


How'd those roller wheels work out for you? What as the HD p/n? Paver patio driveways doesn't like steel shoes and poly's die before you can even push the unit a few yards.


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## edwfrost

I'm going to throw a wrench into this thread. At night I use a very bright 1500 lumen LED rechargable head strap mounted lamp which only weighs 80 grams, with a lithium ion battery pack slightly bigger than 4 AA batteries in my pocket and a 2 hour run time on highest setting. It's mounted up high, shines where I turn my head, better than mounting a 2nd fixed mount LED light to a hand shovel, works when the snow blower is off. And requires no bridge rectifier. This week, I used it to rake leaves in the dark. Just google mountain bike LED lighting. Order the optional head strap. Battery technology is amazing these days.


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## superedge88

edwfrost said:


> I'm going to throw a wrench into this thread. At night I use a very bright 1500 lumen LED rechargable head strap mounted lamp which only weighs 80 grams, with a lithium ion battery pack slightly bigger than 4 AA batteries in my pocket and a 2 hour run time on highest setting. It's mounted up high, shines where I turn my head, better than mounting a 2nd fixed mount LED light to a hand shovel, works when the snow blower is off. And requires no bridge rectifier. This week, I used it to rake leaves in the dark. Just google mountain bike LED lighting. Order the optional head strap. Battery technology is amazing these days.


We appreciate all ideas, but this idea is typically what most of us are trying to get away from. We want a limitless time period of lighting, and one that does not involve the use of batteries or need to be strapped to our person. Definitely works for some folks, not for me though.


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## jnovak01

superedge88 said:


> We appreciate all ideas, but this idea is typically what most of us are trying to get away from. We want a limitless time period of lighting, and one that does not involve the use of batteries or need to be strapped to our person. Definitely works for some folks, not for me though.


 Thank you to all the people who contributed to this thread. My Ariens is the best blower I have owned. The light though, is dim.

I took the plunge and added two 10 watters. 
As others have done I kept the OEM light just as a backup.

I fabbed the light bar from 7/8 EMT, bent it with a hilmor tubing bender, and painted them black for an ersatz OEM look.

These LED's produce so much more light - no regrets.

Enjoy.


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## db9938

That certainly appears to be an upgrade.


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