# spinning handle for chute crank



## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

This is rather trivial, but I was wondering if anyone had ideas for adding a handle to the chute crank. The originals must have not been very durable because after looking at many photos of other machines like mine "most" are missing. At first I was wondering if they just simply didn't have anything to begin with, but then I did find some with one installed.
I don't know how they attached in the first place, it's just a 10mm steel shaft with no groove or ridge that the original handle snapped on to. Again, its not a big deal, it just looks like something is missing and needs some eye candy. It's easy enough to use "as is" and with gloves on it's even easier. I wouldn't want anything too heavy, as it will probably want to settle into the 6 o'clock position as it is now. Obviously you would want it to spin on the shaft, I wouldn't want a simple "grip". I'm guessing there was a simple friction fit sleeve inside the original, but I'm not certain. Anyone know how I could put a spinning handle on this?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm measure the shaft and just order one from Toro, Honda, Murray, .... after looking up it's specs or visiting a retailer and measuring there.

Might be pretty easy to make one out of wood or plastic and just run a die on the end of the shaft to add a few threads and hold it in place with a washer and a lock nut.


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## Dragonsm (Nov 24, 2015)

Something as simple as a piece of PVC - color of choice, or some other kind of pipe and use one of those end fasteners that look like a top hat to hold it on.

Steve


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Thanks. As I was pondering adding threads on the end of the crank, or using a push-on clip I realized the OEM version appears to add a couple inches to the crank. There is less than 3 inches on the metal part as it is. Attached is a photo of one I found in my collection that actually still had one attached. Again, they must have been easy to break because I found 10 without one before I found this one.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

For that machine you need some custom, target grade walnut:wavetowel2:


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## Eyeboltman (Dec 16, 2013)

Mine broke on my Craftsman . so I used the idea I got fro the garage Gazette of using a screwdriver handle . Junk screwdriver , put blade in vise drive off handle . Drill hole to size you need . I have one for the blower and one I drill and tap for the shifter rod . Good luck .


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I just went out to the garage and grabbed a screwdriver I have with a* spinning* handle. I was trying to see if I could figure out how it works. I see a snap ring looking thingy in the middle of the handle part, but I have no idea how it's put together.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

dbert said:


> This is rather trivial, but I was wondering if anyone had ideas for adding a handle to the chute crank. The originals must have not been very durable because after looking at many photos of other machines like mine "most" are missing. At first I was wondering if they just simply didn't have anything to begin with, but then I did find some with one installed.
> I don't know how they attached in the first place, it's just a 10mm steel shaft with no groove or ridge that the original handle snapped on to. Again, its not a big deal, it just looks like something is missing and needs some eye candy. It's easy enough to use "as is" and with gloves on it's even easier. I wouldn't want anything too heavy, as it will probably want to settle into the 6 o'clock position as it is now. Obviously you would want it to spin on the shaft, I wouldn't want a simple "grip". I'm guessing there was a simple friction fit sleeve inside the original, but I'm not certain. Anyone know how I could put a spinning handle on this?
> 
> 
> ...


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Some time ago I found a bunch of long (10") sort of screw nails. They had a sleeve/spacer/bushing of either UHMW or HDPE or some other type poly. They made a great handle for a couple of my snowblowers. I think maybe I still have a couple of them. In case you're interested, dbert. I'm not making a promise but I *will look. * They were similar to this but they were also fluted.


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## PixMan (Feb 14, 2015)

Eh...send it to me, it'll come back with a spinning handle on it. You specify diameter, material and if you want it smooth, fluted or knurled. Cost of shipping and material if I have to buy it, which is highly unlikely if aluminum, poplar, steel, stainless steel, black or white acetal (Delrin) is chosen.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I knew when I saw the reply was from PixMan it was going to be good. I wasn't expecting that however.
Your talent and skills are only exceeded by your generosity. Oh, and your tooling.
It's just a crank, and it works fine without a handle. I was ready to put a piece of sprinkler pipe on there if I could figure out how to both let it spin and not fall off. Having tracks for the first time ever and being ready to go this year probably means we will have no snow. But...I cant wait to use it. 
If the offer is still there at the end of the season let me know and I will send you the crank for a custom PixMan handle.
best
Del


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

This is the best picture I can find of one very similar:










I wonder, given that there's no apparent fittings/grooves or evidence of prior on the bare crank, if it was originally a rubber or plastic slide-on handle. Would explain the common deterioration/vaporization over the years.

Almost looks like that from the pic too, hmm.

Not that a spinning handle wouldn't be a cool touch and improvement...


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

A wooden file handle made from birch. It was less than $4 with shipping on ebay:


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I helped a friend with something similar a few years back, it wasn't for a blower and he wanted it to spin. Took a washer and put it on the shaft and welded it on as a stop on the front. Turned a piece of Russian Olive wood for the handle and bored it out to slide on the shaft. Put a washer on the end then used one of those drive type shaft end caps like are used on the wheels of kids wagon wheels, got it at the hardware store. Finished the wood with a marine spar varnish and it looked and worked well.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> I wonder, given that there's no apparent fittings/grooves or evidence of prior on the bare crank, if it was originally a rubber or plastic slide-on handle. Would explain the common deterioration/vaporization over the years.
> 
> Almost looks like that from the pic too, hmm.
> 
> Not that a spinning handle wouldn't be a cool touch and improvement...


Wow. Seems silly as heck to put a stationary rubber "grip" on this part. I guess it's better than a tennis racket grip.. or 80 grit sandpaper, but still. 

One mystery remains for me. The tail end of my crank shaft looks unmodified (still has original platting meaning it hasn't been cut off). It is just under 3 inches long (from the inside bend). I'd say this photos appear to have twice that length when you include the grip. 

Here is what I came up with. To get some length back (so it remains a handle, and doesn't turn into something resembling a knob) weld a cut off bolt the the end of the shaft. 

Sigh. So I just drew this up real quick. This wasn't supposed to be a big deal, and now I am making drawings.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

dbert said:


> Wow. Seems silly as heck to put a stationary rubber "grip" on this part. I guess it's better than a tennis racket grip.. or 80 grit sandpaper, but still.
> 
> One mystery remains for me. The tail end of my crank shaft looks unmodified (still has original platting meaning it hasn't been cut off). It is just under 3 inches long (from the inside bend). I'd say this photos appear to have twice that length when you include the grip.
> 
> ...



I see a custom crank with spinning handle in your near future.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

dbert said:


> Wow. Seems silly as heck to put a stationary rubber "grip" on this part. I guess it's better than a tennis racket grip.. or 80 grit sandpaper, but still.
> 
> One mystery remains for me. The tail end of my crank shaft looks unmodified (still has original platting meaning it hasn't been cut off). It is just under 3 inches long (from the inside bend). I'd say this photos appear to have twice that length when you include the grip.
> 
> ...


Instead of welding a cut off bolt you could drill a hole in the center and thread it for a SS 6mm or 1/4" long bolt with an allen head (it would look much cleaner )


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

hsblowersfan said:


> Instead of welding a cut off bolt you could drill a hole in the center and thread it for a SS 6mm or 1/4" long bolt with an allen head (it would look much cleaner )


Thanks HSBFan, I was just thinking about the same thing. Great minds think alike.


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## PixMan (Feb 14, 2015)

I'd also consider using a 6mm or 1/4-20UNC bolt, though I'd find a shoulder bolt, add an Oilite bronze bushing pressed into the handle to make it REALLY smooth running.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

PixMan said:


> I'd also consider using a 6mm or 1/4-20UNC bolt, though I'd find a shoulder bolt, add an Oilite bronze bushing pressed into the handle to make it REALLY smooth running.


I like the oilite bronze bushing idea


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

hsblowersfan said:


> I like the oilite bronze bushing idea


Roller bearings!


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

skutflut said:


> Roller bearings!


You guys are cracking me up. It's a chute crank that probably spent many years in service with no handle at all.
But just imagine a knurled aluminum that spins.. That would be so cool. PixMan has me dreaming now.


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## Slinger (Oct 9, 2014)




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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

dbert said:


> You guys are cracking me up. It's a chute crank that probably spent many years in service with no handle at all.
> But just imagine a knurled aluminum that spins.. That would be so cool. PixMan has me dreaming now.


If you go with the knurled aluminum, there's a risk of getting a tongue frozen to it if somebody licks it. Better check the OSHA regs :icon_whistling:


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## Slinger (Oct 9, 2014)

If you're going to extend the handle length, just add some additional 10mm shaft (bolt, whatever) grind smooth and use a couple of 10mm shaft collars to keep your handle positioned.








Then make your handle from whatever material you want, bored for clearance on the 10mm shaft.
So many ways to solve this problem...


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