# Pulley size changes for increased auger/impeller speed?:



## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

I'm considering experimenting with various different pulley sizes on my snow blower.

My main go-to snow blower is a hopped up Craftsman II Trac-Drive *5/23* 536.884800 with double the horsepower it originally came with (10HP Tecumseh with billet connecting rod in place of a 5HP Tecumseh)

The current auger/impeller pulley sizes are as follows:

Engine pulley: 2-3/4"
Auger pulley: 6-1/2"

This is essentially the stock set up for the *8/25* (536.884900) version of the Craftsman II Trac-Drive machine as that is where I got these pulleys from. Both of these machines other than the engine size and the clearing width are identical and I was able to interchange various parts from one to the other. Since I favored the 23" clearing as opposed to the 25", I kept the engine and all of the pulleys and other various bits from the 25" for use on my 23".

Something to keep in mind, this machine has a 10" impeller.

Now since I have a 10HP engine on this machine, I was wondering if I changed the engine pulley from the 'stock' 2-3/4" diameter to either a 3" or 3-1/2" pulley for increased RPM, how much extra load would be on the engine despite a minor increase?

Using a pulley ratio calculator, these are the results I have come up with. Changing just the engine driven pulley and leaving the auger/impeller as is, I get these results.

2-3/4" diameter: 1523 RPM impeller speed
3" diameter: 1661 RPM impeller speed
3-1/2" diameter: 1938 RPM impeller speed

Would an extra 415 RPM on the impeller bog down the 10HP or do you think I could get away with it being that the current pulley setup is tuned for 8HP and I now have a 10HP?


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

You have to be careful that the rest of the drive-train can handle the extra speed.
Will the bearings handle it?
Will the auger gear-box handle it?
Does the gear-box use grease or oil?
The impeller bearing?
The idler/tensioner pulley bearings?
Will the impeller blow apart from the centrifugal force of the increased speed, especially if it is an older model, can the metal withstand it?
With the bigger engine it will spin everything fast enough due to the increased power with the stock sized pulleys.
If you would go bigger on the drive pulley, I wouldn't go too much bigger to increase the speed too much or you could be damaging other parts that were not meant for the extra speed.
Now that you have the extra power to handle the bigger loads of snow, can the rest of the parts handle it?
The parts were designed for the load that would be put on them from a smaller engine, and with the bigger more powerful engine, you will be trying to do more and overload those parts because you have the extra power to move the snow, but the parts, bearings, gears, shafts might not be able to handle the extra power and loads put on them.
Try it and see what happens, if they break or wear out quicker, that will be expected from the bigger power put on them.
A good example would be putting a big high power engine in a small car and not changing the drive-train, transmission and differential plus drive axles, and beefing up the main frame, then watching all those parts break because they weren't designed for the extra power. 
Or like putting a hot small block Chevy in an old Willy's jeep CJ5 and wondering why it keeps blowing the rear's all the time. It's fun, a lot of us did that, and when we realized how much it cost from all the damage we did, we realized it wasn't worth it for what it was costing us.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

ST1100A said:


> You have to be careful that the rest of the drive-train can handle the extra speed.
> Will the bearings handle it?
> Will the auger gear-box handle it?
> Does the gear-box use grease or oil?
> ...


These are all the things I have kept in mind.

The gearbox uses grease and I had just changed it and replaced the seal so it's good to go. The gearbox looked very healthy upon opening.
The impeller bearing has been replaced as well and is in good shape and rotates freely.
The impeller itself is stout and not cheaply built. It's pretty heavily reinforced and welded together which is why I'm interested in increasing the speed, I think it can handle the extra RPM.

Everything else inside the transmission and belt box will retain the original speed as the engine is set at 3750 and I figure under load it drops to about 3500-3600. The only parts that will be over the stock RPM is everything from the auger pulley and onward. I could always replace the idler as there is only one and I'm sure I could reinforce the bracket pretty easily.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> These are all the things I have kept in mind.
> 
> The gearbox uses grease and I had just changed it and replaced the seal so it's good to go. The gearbox looked very healthy upon opening.
> The impeller bearing has been replaced as well and is in good shape and rotates freely.
> ...


It will blow the snow pretty well with the extra power at the stock pulley speeds, it wont slow the engine down from the extra power, you'd be surprised.
Does your gearbox have ball bearings or bushings?
You will wear out bushings a lot faster with the extra speed and could tear up and destroy the gearbox.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

With the extra power you will be ramming into piles like it's a big 36" machine and blowing it out of the way, but have to remember it's a smaller machine that wasn't designed for that abuse, but I'm sure it would be fun though.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> These are all the things I have kept in mind.
> 
> The gearbox uses grease and I had just changed it and replaced the seal so it's good to go. The gearbox looked very healthy upon opening.
> The impeller bearing has been replaced as well and is in good shape and rotates freely.
> ...


I would take advantage of that big engine and run it it a little slower..3300 to 3450 rpm..The larger engines with the longer strokes seem break the rod sooner than thier smaller cousins.

I would aim for about 1450 on that impeller speed with a 10 inch impeller.
1600 tops

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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Shovel said:


> I would take advantage of that big engine and run it it a little slower..3300 to 3450 rpm..The larger engines with the longer strokes seem break the rod sooner than thier smaller cousins.
> 
> I would aim for about 1450 on that impeller speed with a 10 inch impeller.
> 1600 tops
> ...


Put a 'Billet' rod in them then you will be safe. All of them,small and big were known for breaking, especially at higher speeds. The original connecting rods were their 'Weak Spot'.
Like you mentioned, run it at a lower speed to be safe and make it last longer.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

Keep in mind that, your belt might slips and wears out a lot faster if you increase the impeller speed. Not all belt systems are the same and can carry a lot of load (light duty vs. heavy duty).

This is why I like the double belts system on the Ariens. You can increase the impeller speed without sacrificing the belt too much. It is just harder to find a double groove pulley that will fit. Good thing, I don't need to increase the impeller speed.

If I was you, I would do the impeller mod only.


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## dman2 (Sep 22, 2019)

I don't think those Craftsman was made to remove snow fast (high output), so their components were not up to the task.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

dman2 said:


> I don't think those Craftsman was made to remove snow fast (high output), so their components were not up to the task.


So far, this machine seems to be better than the previous one I had overall. The metal is thicker, the bearing components are better, it's a much heavier duty machine despite it only being a single belt. The previous machine was a double belt. I've pretty much upgraded every component I can as well, replacing most with ball bearing races and if unable to, making sure it's got some sort of grease fitting. My last to-do on this machine is doing exactly what you had just described, adding a double pulley. I'm on the hunt for one right now but worst case scenario, I can just turn one on my lathe.

There is just enough room to add one it appears after working on the machine last night to replacing the friction wheel shaft bearings with ball bearing flanges.

I have some old heavy duty conveyor belt with Kevlar lining that will become my impeller kit maybe later this afternoon.

Do keep in mind though that the RPMs I'm looking to achieve are not far off the original RPM of this machine. the 8/25 variant had the impeller spinning at 1523 out of the factory and in the motor/bushing world that I work in, a few extra RPM isn't all that big of a deal. Now when it comes to a snow blower, this is a bit new to me but I think my main concern is whether or not the billet-rodded Tecumseh has the power to handle the increased load.

Another thing to consider is that I'm not changing the trac-drive speed. That's staying as is, so would the increased impeller speed actually take a load off because it can evacuate the snow faster?


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> So far, this machine seems to be better than the previous one I had overall. The metal is thicker, the bearing components are better, it's a much heavier duty machine despite it only being a single belt. The previous machine was a double belt. I've pretty much upgraded every component I can as well, replacing most with ball bearing races and if unable to, making sure it's got some sort of grease fitting. My last to-do on this machine is doing exactly what you had just described, adding a double pulley. I'm on the hunt for one right now but worst case scenario, I can just turn one on my lathe.
> 
> There is just enough room to add one it appears after working on the machine last night to replacing the friction wheel shaft bearings with ball bearing flanges.
> 
> ...


It takes four times the power to double impeller speed..so I wouldn't get to crazy with it..1600 rpm will have you in the impeller tip speed range of the Hondas 928 Hondas..they can bog down..so I wouldn't go any higher
That 1523 rpm sounds a little high for a stock craftsman machine.
Often times times the belt on the crank pulley is below the surface of the pulley..and on the impeller pulley it sticks up past the grooves so you can have a braking system.



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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

My rule of thumb for re-powering & 're-gearing' is

1) the horsepower increase required will be the 'cube' of the speed increase

2) plan to use only about 50% of the horsepower increase on any gear/belt ratio changes.

Using those rules of thumb, you may want about a 15% increase in speed (1.15 x 1.15 x 1.15 = 1.52 i.e 50% )

So, a 3-1/4" pulley might be the way to go, giving you a 15% increase in speed.

A 3.5" pulley would require 2x the HP, and that is all that you have with the bigger engine. So, there would be no 'headroom' for the engine and it may bog down in heavy load situations. Planning to 'consume' only 50% of the power increase via pulley ratio changes, will leave the remaining 50% of the power increase available, so the engine can better sustain its governed maximum RPM under load.

I'd go for a cranky-shaft pulley around 3.15 - 3.25" in diameter.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

tpenfield said:


> My rule of thumb for re-powering & 're-gearing' is
> 
> 1) the horsepower increase required will be the 'cube' of the speed increase
> 
> ...


Cranky-shaft pulley at 3.25 it is! I'll probably buy one size smaller just to be safe but I will definitely try this out to see. That would put the impeller RPM right at 1800 under no load.


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## nt40lanman (Dec 31, 2012)

I say go for it. I did a similar thing with my Ariens, replacing a 6 horsepower with a 10 horsepower, and a bigger pulley for the auger. Of course it is an older cast iron box machine but I am not gentle with it in any way.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

The 3.25" pulley came in today. I'll probably try it out next snow storm. Just have to get a slightly larger belt.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Probably the next size up belt will do. Not sure if that is going to be 1/2" or 1" longer. Might be best to bring the old belt with you to an auto parts store.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> Cranky-shaft pulley at 3.25 it is! I'll probably buy one size smaller just to be safe but I will definitely try this out to see. That would put the impeller RPM right at 1800 under no load.


In theory that will give you a 39 percent increase in throwing distance....minus wind resistance and the loss at the chute.
Be careful with rock...it will be hitting that chute a lot harder now (53 mph)as well send them along ways...194 feet...minus wind resistance and chute resistance ..making rock launching 150 plus feet a reality 

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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> The 3.25" pulley came in today. I'll probably try it out next snow storm. Just have to get a slightly larger belt.


Where did you get a larger pulley from? I thought about getting a larger pulley for my machine, but didn't know where to get one.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> Where did you get a larger pulley from? I thought about getting a larger pulley for my machine, but didn't know where to get one.


I have bought them from Tractor Supply or Rural King.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> Where did you get a larger pulley from? I thought about getting a larger pulley for my machine, but didn't know where to get one.


I bought mine off eBay for only a couple of bucks. Cast iron pulley. It came in two days.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Shovel said:


> In theory that will give you a 39 percent increase in throwing distance....minus wind resistance and the loss at the chute.
> Be careful with rock...it will be hitting that chute a lot harder now (53 mph)as well send them along ways...194 feet...minus wind resistance and chute resistance ..making rock launching 150 plus feet a reality
> 
> Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


So the 3.25" pulley is installed. I actually measured the original pulley wrong. The original is a 3" pulley so the 3.25" pulley isn't going to make THAT big of a difference I'm guessing but we have snow coming tomorrow so I'll see how I like the extra few RPM. Still using the original 31" belt but I have a 32" just in case.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> So the 3.25" pulley is installed. I actually measured the original pulley wrong. The original is a 3" pulley so the 3.25" pulley isn't going to make THAT big of a difference I'm guessing but we have snow coming tomorrow so I'll see how I like the extra few RPM. Still using the original 31" belt but I have a 32" just in case.


That small increase and the fact that engine RPMs will barely drop due to the larger engine will make a noticeable difference as your impeller RPM under load will be quite a bit faster...its win win..no load Impeller...slight increase in speed...larger engine...maintains higher RPM during load..I expect you will see quite a difference in the machines ability...and still be able to tackle wet snow at a pretty decent pace.

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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> I bought mine off eBay for only a couple of bucks. Cast iron pulley. It came in two days.


Did you get a pulley made for a snowthrower or is it just a universal pulley? I'm thinking of going to a 3" pulley (from 2.75"), a 3/4" shaft.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> Did you get a pulley made for a snowthrower or is it just a universal pulley? I'm thinking of going to a 3" pulley (from 2.75"), a 3/4" shaft.











Tb Wood's Ak3234 3/4" Fixed Bore 1 Groove Standard V-Belt Pulley 3.25 In Od 190735128770 | eBay


<p>Standard V-Belt Pulley, For V-Belt Section 3L, 4L, A, AX, Number of Grooves 1, Pulley Outside Dia. 3.25 in, Pulley Bore Type Fixed Bore, Pulley Bore Dia. 3/4 in, Pulley Material Cast Iron, None Bushing Required, Fits Shaft Dia. 3/4 in, 3L Belt Pitch Dia. 2.66 in, 4L, A, or AX Belt Pitch Dia...



www.ebay.com





This is the one I bought and it was a direct fit, no fussing about. You will need to check your machine to see what size belt(s) it uses. Some machines have a double pulley as well.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Shovel said:


> That small increase and the fact that engine RPMs will barely drop due to the larger engine will make a noticeable difference as your impeller RPM under load will be quite a bit faster...its win win..no load Impeller...slight increase in speed...larger engine...maintains higher RPM during load..I expect you will see quite a difference in the machines ability...and still be able to tackle wet snow at a pretty decent pace.
> 
> Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


HOLY CRAP! 😁😁😁😁

Tried it out today and it blasted the snow well out of my way! This is the performance I was looking for.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

Did you have to add a spacer to get the pulley to line up properly?


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> Did you have to add a spacer to get the pulley to line up properly?


Yes but only because the crankshaft I used on this engine is just a hair too long. I bought spacers at Ace Hardware. Otherwise it's a near perfect fit.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

Well, I was looking for a 3/4" Bore x 3" OD pulley (AK3034). For some reason they are real expensive everywhere ($30+ on ebay and other sites). Zoro has a good price, but it says order in multiplies of 2. What's going on?

I don't think I should go from 2.75" to 3.25".


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> Well, I was looking for a 3/4" Bore x 3" OD pulley (AK3034). For some reason they are real expensive everywhere ($30+ on ebay and other sites). Zoro has a good price, but it says order in multiplies of 2. What's going on?
> 
> I don't think I should go from 2.75" to 3.25".











Browning AK30-3/4 V-Belt Pulley 3/4" Bore 1 Groove 3.05" OD 3L 4L A Belt USED | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Browning AK30-3/4 V-Belt Pulley 3/4" Bore 1 Groove 3.05" OD 3L 4L A Belt USED at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> HOLY CRAP!
> 
> Tried it out today and it blasted the snow well out of my way! This is the performance I was looking for.


Awesome!

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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Shovel said:


> Awesome!
> 
> Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


The 10HP bogs down a fair bit while blasting snow, maybe by 600 RPM, but the range doesn't seem to be affected all that much. I'm wondering if a pulley ever so slightly smaller would help bring the RPMs back up just a touch.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> The 10HP bogs down a fair bit while blasting snow, maybe by 600 RPM, but the range doesn't seem to be affected all that much. I'm wondering if a pulley ever so slightly smaller would help bring the RPMs back up just a touch.


A 10 percent reduction in impeller speed requires 20 percent less power to operate. 
First though I would make sure my engine was running as good as it can...proper plug gap..set the valves and be sure carb is in tune..you may not need to slow the impeller back down



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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Shovel said:


> A 10 percent reduction in impeller speed requires 20 percent less power to operate.
> First though I would make sure my engine was running as good as it can...proper plug gap..set the valves and be sure carb is in tune..you may not need to slow the impeller back down
> 
> 
> ...


It's a completely rebuilt Tecumseh with a billet connecting rod installed. Valve lash and valve seal was good when I reassembled.

Things I have not checked though is the spark plug gap as well as the carb tune. It runs great overall and always starts first pull so I assume it's in pretty good tune but just to be safe, any recommendations on both of these?

I played with the governor a bit after going through some snow but even a minor adjustment had the engine revving almost 5000. While I'm not at all afraid the rod would let go as it's rated for double that, I don't want the engine revving that high, so it seems like I can't escape the 3700 RPM by even just a few RPM.

Notes: When throttling up from idle speed, I do get a puff of black smoke momentarily. I assume this is normal as I do believe it's adjusted slightly more to the richer side. As for spark plug gap, I haven't a clue.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> It's a completely rebuilt Tecumseh with a billet connecting rod installed. Valve lash and valve seal was good when I reassembled.
> 
> Things I have not checked though is the spark plug gap as well as the carb tune. It runs great overall and always starts first pull so I assume it's in pretty good tune but just to be safe, any recommendations on both of these?
> 
> ...


To see if that main is close to being right without special equipment...reading the plugs etc...is to start er up..take off the choke and hit the snow...it should die.. it should have to be running a minute or two before it won't surge or die.
With the air fuel mix ratio...slightly rich equals a little more lower...but then falls off real quick if the point is passed up...the leaner side gives us more range before it clonks out.
Also Although you may have a better rod...we don't know where your peak HP is..higher RPM may not provide any extra power at all unless we have the cam to go with it.
Peak torque on most small engines is usually 2400 to 2800 RPMs...so let's go with 2800 RPM with the engine under full load we want to stay above that 2800 or it will lose power and begin the stall process.
Let's use 3600 rpm for max rpm....minus 12.5 percent governor droop..that will have us at 3150 before the throttle actually is fully open...that will give us a lug range of 3150 minus 2800..equals 350 RPMs...but most engines are not rated 100 percent duty cycle..so we don't full pulls for extended periods.

Onto the governor..is sounds like it is not set correctly ...if set correctly it would require alot of tension to achieve that 5000 and should begin to surge before that. 
I will try to find the video on how to properly set your governor 

Edit.
Link added.






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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Shovel said:


> To see if that main is close to being right without special equipment...reading the plugs etc...is to start er up..take off the choke and hit the snow...it should die.. it should have to be running a minute or two before it won't surge or die.
> With the air fuel mix ratio...slightly rich equals a little more lower...but then falls off real quick if the point is passed up...the leaner side gives us more range before it clonks out.
> Also Although you may have a better rod...we don't know where your peak HP is..higher RPM may not provide any extra power at all unless we have the cam to go with it.
> Peak torque on most small engines is usually 2400 to 2800 RPMs...so let's go with 2800 RPM with the engine under full load we want to stay above that 2800 or it will lose power and begin the stall process.
> ...


Thanks for all the info, I'll definitely check it out on my next day off. Setting the governor according to that video is way easier than I expected. I'll snap a few pictures and a video as well. I'm hoping for another big snow (12"+) to really test this machine so hopefully old man Winter himself will deliver.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

I believe the HM100/HMSK100 is literally an HM80/HMSK80 with a larger bore. The valves, cam etc are the same.
Wouldn't that suffocate it above a certain rpm?

There's also little if any timing advance.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> Thanks for all the info, I'll definitely check it out on my next day off. Setting the governor according to that video is way easier than I expected. I'll snap a few pictures and a video as well. I'm hoping for another big snow (12"+) to really test this machine so hopefully old man Winter himself will deliver.


12 inches is decent test.
Is that engine a flat head or OHV?...with the flat heads the power fades pretty quick at high rpm...the engines just didn't breath.
The OHV Tecumsehs ran pretty good...some were under rated and they just listed a smaller hp rating on them than the what they actually had. 

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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

ChrisJ said:


> I believe the HM100/HMSK100 is literally an HM80/HMSK80 with a larger bore. The valves, cam etc are the same.
> Wouldn't that suffocate it above a certain rpm?
> 
> There's also little if any timing advance.


Indeed some engines don't respond well to elevated RPMs.. alot of the Tecumsehs relied on huge displacement for power.
He may be sitting on a monster which will actually perform its best at 3600 rpm

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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Shovel said:


> Indeed some engines don't respond well to elevated RPMs.. alot of the Tecumsehs relied on huge displacement for power.
> He may be sitting on a monster which will actually perform its best at 3600 rpm
> 
> Sent from my SM-A115U1 using Tapatalk


Yes the Tecumseh the OP is talking about is a flathead.
As far as huge displacement, the 8HP HMSK is 318cc while the Predator 8HP with OHV is 301. Not much different IMO.


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## Shovel (Mar 26, 2019)

ChrisJ said:


> Yes the Tecumseh the OP is talking about is a flathead.
> As far as huge displacement, the 8HP HMSK is 318cc while the Predator 8HP with OHV is 301. Not much different IMO.


The predators usually have more power than rated...Dyno pulls are usually impressive 
I found the displacement of the Tecumseh 100 ..357 cc..fair sized engine.
Should be some some decent torque in the lower revs..but beings it a flathead will run out of lung at higher RPM..he may not be able to get additional power with Higher RPM 

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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

The engine on my machine is an HMSK100 flathead in remarkable condition so you are correct about that. And it is also true that the internals of the HMSK80 are exactly the same as the HMSK100 with only the bore being larger. I've had both of these engines apart as the engine I pulled off this machine is an HMSK80. (The machine originally had a 5HP which did not do justice)

I've considered swapping the engine entirely to something else but the problem I ran into is that this machine is one of those dual shaft ones with the track drive being driven off the camshaft so the entire setup rotates in the opposite direction. I thought about swapping the final gear with a chain and that could potentially solve my directional issue but at this point, I already have a billet rod in the 10HP so I'll be leaving well enough alone for the time being. Attached is a picture of the machine. I even went as far as replacing the original "5/23" decal with a proper 10/23 one.


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

FlamingSpaghetti said:


> Browning AK30-3/4 V-Belt Pulley 3/4" Bore 1 Groove 3.05" OD 3L 4L A Belt USED | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Browning AK30-3/4 V-Belt Pulley 3/4" Bore 1 Groove 3.05" OD 3L 4L A Belt USED at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> ...


I saw that posting. That is $14.99 + $15.15 shipping = $30.14. I'd rather buy brand new for $33.52. Still crazy prices when the other pulleys one size up and down are $8-$12.

I guess the 3/4" bore x 3" OD is popular. Since this would be a summer project, I will wait a while before purchasing.

Thanks for the help.


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

Husqvarna_10530SBE said:


> I saw that posting. That is $14.99 + $15.15 shipping = $30.14. I'd rather buy brand new for $33.52. Still crazy prices when the other pulleys one size up and down are $8-$12.
> 
> I guess the 3/4" bore x 3" OD is popular. Since this would be a summer project, I will wait a while before purchasing.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Try this one. It's showing free shipping for me.









3" Cast Iron 3/4" Shaft Pulley Sheave Single Groove V Style (A Belt 4L) | eBay


Cast Iron V Belt Sheave. 1/2" section v belt. 3/4" fixed bore.



www.ebay.com


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Just an FYI - I used one of those painted pulleys for one of my re-powers and eventually the paint within the pully grove wore to the point of becoming slippery - thus the impeller belt slipped. As a remedy, I sanded the paint off of the groove area. Problem fixed. 😀


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## FlamingSpaghetti (Jan 8, 2018)

tpenfield said:


> nd FYI - I used one of those painted pulleys for one of my re-powers and eventually the paint within the pully grove wore to th


Good to know, thank you!


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## Husqvarna_10530SBE (Oct 9, 2015)

tpenfield said:


> Just an FYI - I used one of those painted pulleys for one of my re-powers and eventually the paint within the pully grove wore to the point of becoming slippery - thus the impeller belt slipped. As a remedy, I sanded the paint off of the groove area. Problem fixed. 😀


I was wondering about that. It looks as though the best deal for a 3" OD pulley is buying a set from Zoro. I can install one straight away and sand the other one to have it ready.


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