# Craftsman 5/22 auger seized. Tried everything!



## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

I have my dad's old ~1999 Craftsman snowblower that I rescued from going to the junkyard in 2014. 

Model #: 536.886540
Code: 321502661
Engine: Tecumseh HS50

I got the engine running like new but now the auger gear is stripped. I'm trying to remove the augers but they're rusted on tight. 

I've tried all the techniques I saw on here: soaking them in Deep Creep multiple days from the ends and through the shear pin holes and banging them out, using the pullers in the pics, borrowed from Autozone but they don't fit great.

I tried electrolysis on one side but that didn't help (see setup in pic).

I tried the 2x4 method but that has just cut grooves in my 2x4. I even tried prying it off against the impeller shaft but that just bent the auger.

I don't want to give up but I am at a loss as to what I can do. Any help is appreciated!









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

heat, lots and lots of heat


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

+1 on the heat.. *lots and lots of heat*. Donyboy has some great vids.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Oxy Acetylene torch using a two long pipe wrenches on each side wiggling back and forth. Any auto shop may help you. On occasion I've gone to my local community college technical, a high school auto shop may help. It's a learning experience for the students.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Hang in there with the Heat and penetrating oil. At a minimum, use Mapp gas; propane isn't hot enough.

Try Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB blaster or a homemade concoction of acetone/ATF (50/50).

(deep creep is not a penetrating oil... it's seafoam in aerosol form).


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

classiccat said:


> Hang in there with the Heat and penetrating oil. At a minimum, use Mapp gas; propane isn't hot enough.
> 
> Try Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB blaster or a homemade concoction of acetone/ATF (50/50).
> 
> (deep creep is not a penetrating oil... it's seafoam in aerosol form).


A Lot of what I've used in the past along with a hydraulic press. Put it on end, heat and use penetrant, rap it some with a big hammer and try pressure using the hydraulic press. May use something cold at times to heat shock it too. Biggest thing is attempting to break the bond between the auger rakes and the auger shaft
Another thing I've heard to work on the steel parts is electrolysis. Big thing is don't immerse it to the point of getting the auger gearcase wet as that could lead to other problems.

I've put out a pdf on how I've done it in the past and gotten rusted on auger rakes off.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

Where are you located, I am parting out a machine that has a good auger assembly?


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## The_Geologist (Feb 6, 2016)

Here's what someone else described using an air hammer, but it sounds like he may not have had the auger removed yet...I could be wrong, though.

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1155721-post7.html


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

Thanks for all the tips. I don't have access to an oxyacetalyne torch but good suggestion on talking to a car shop. I did hear you need at least MAPP gas. Will this Benzo torch in the pic be enough?

That's interesting on deep creep. I had some and saw this video so I figured it should be good. I think I'll still get some Liquid Wrench because it performs even better.






I have seen those Donyboy videos - he's great. I was hoping not to have to mangle the auger shaft like he did. 

I might try to fashion a puller like I saw on here. Seem like that method should be effective.


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

Motor City said:


> Where are you located, I am parting out a machine that has a good auger assembly?


I'm near Albany, NY


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

HCBPH said:


> A Lot of what I've used in the past along with a hydraulic press. Put it on end, heat and use penetrant, rap it some with a big hammer and try pressure using the hydraulic press. May use something cold at times to heat shock it too. Biggest thing is attempting to break the bond between the auger rakes and the auger shaft
> Another thing I've heard to work on the steel parts is electrolysis. Big thing is don't immerse it to the point of getting the auger gearcase wet as that could lead to other problems.
> 
> I've put out a pdf on how I've done it in the past and gotten rusted on auger rakes off.


If you would send me the pdf I would love to take a look at that! My email is [email protected]


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

The_Geologist said:


> Here's what someone else described using an air hammer, but it sounds like he may not have had the auger removed yet...I could be wrong, though.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/1155721-post7.html


Thanks I saw that and looked for air hammers. I have a small compressor but didn't see any attachments that weren't chisels. I might try that if I get desperate.


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## The_Geologist (Feb 6, 2016)

He mentions using a 12" blunt shaft in the air hammer, so it might have been a piece of metal he had lying around...maybe some sort of drift? Too bad there weren't any pics of what he was describing.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

MAPP is significantly less heat than oxy acet. I've even had problems with oxy acet, you can give it a try. Not only does it not heat fast enough, nor hot enough, but because it is not hot enough, out cools faster.



Rob Chang said:


> Thanks for all the tips. I don't have access to an oxyacetalyne torch but good suggestion on talking to a car shop. I did hear you need at least MAPP gas. Will this Benzo torch in the pic be enough?
> 
> That's interesting on deep creep. I had some and saw this video so I figured it should be good. I think I'll still get some Liquid Wrench because it performs even better.
> 
> ...


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Rob Chang said:


> That's interesting on deep creep. I had some and saw this video so I figured it should be good. I think I'll still get some Liquid Wrench because it performs even better.


Seafoam deep creep actually performed pretty well in that comparative study! I've only used it for dissolving carbon and varnish deposits.


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

+1 oxyacetylene torch and a air hammer. 

I just rehabbed an old simplicity 860. Augers and impellers were rusted solid on the shafts. It took ALOT of heat and a air hammer. 

You may need to bite the bullet and go to auto repair shop to get it apart.

I drilled a 1/4” hole a 1/4” deep in the center of the auger shaft to keep my air hammer from walking and from mushrooming the end of the shaft then propped it up securely heated until cherry red and air hammered the shaft down through the auger. Rinse and repeat.


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

Wow sounds like lots of votes for oxyacetalene and hammering. Has anyone tried this technique? Not sure if it is worth a go before heat and hammering.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_tid=59081&share_fid=1423955&share_type=t


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

with the air hammer, be careful not to mushroom the axle shaft.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Wow, you've definitely been thorough so far! I think I've seen people talk about using the air hammer from the side, along the auger shaft, as well. Beating on it along the auger tube.

You could also maybe try a cutoff wheel on a Dremel, angle grinder, etc. Maybe cut slits along the length of the auger tube (don't cut into the auger shaft itself). I'd think perhaps 2 slots max, 180 degrees apart, in the same area. But starting with 1 slit would be safer. 

The idea would be to let the tube expand a bit, so it can decompress from the rust that's mashing the auger tube & auger shaft together currently.

But don't do anything too close to the shear pins. That's where the torque transfers into the auger tube. You don't want to weaken the tube too much. 

I've never tried this, I'm more thinking out loud. One other benefit would be that you could apply penetrating oil at each slit, which would let you lubricate much more of the auger shaft. Heck, just drilled holes would allow minor oiling at multiple locations.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Rob Chang said:


> If you would send me the pdf I would love to take a look at that! My email is [email protected]


Doc is on it's way via email. Hope it helps.


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## Lottstodo (Feb 16, 2018)

Because I used to do body and frame collision repair I always saved my broken air hammer chisels. I would take those and cut the broken end to a flat blunt that could be used for things like you want to do and even cut brand new cheap ones to foot the bill.
You dont want to stay in 1 place with the air hammer as like you are trying to cut or peen the metal, you want to move it as what you are trying to do is shock it to break the rust bond, also I dont do the shaft I stay on the auger assy and work up and down the outer auger tube.

The only heat I use is propane and I only use Kroil nothing else. If you let kroil work for a couple days it creeps and dissolves rust.
Remember the air hammer will move metal so dont be aggressive just let the vibrations do its work. You dont have to push in on the hammer just hold it to where in the place it need to be.


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## rminnehan (Nov 21, 2013)

Be careful or you could bend it. I had one I tried everything on including bringing it to an auto body shop. I finally took a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel and cut the length of the shaft. This worked but the unit had gotten bent. Putting it back together was no problem but it was not something I could sell as the shaft would wobble when engaged so I have been using it myself for a couple of years. Works great.


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## silenttracks (Jan 18, 2019)

What about a hub puller set? Is there any way you could angle grind a notch in a big old truck hub, then slip that over the shaft, and attach the puller to the hub lug nuts and press against your existing auger shaft? 

Also, what about using 4x4's / jigs to firmly fasten one end of the assembly to a bench or vertical studs. Then you can hit the auger shaft with an air hammer from one end. 

I have never had augers THAT stuck, don't know what I would do there. Good luck. Buy stock in PB Blaster, and a couple tanks of MAPP.


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## Bondo 287 (Jan 31, 2019)

I'll be the fly in the ointment here, ( pardon the pun ? ) but I have no faith whatsoever in PB Blaster. I don't know why everybody likes it. It's good for refreshing rusty nuts and bolts on reassembly, but really, has never, never, resolved a stuck-rusty-fused incident for me. I call it "placebo blaster" because it's something else that eventually resolves the issue. 



I work on old cars, and the Trans fluid / Acetone mix, and SeaFoam's Deep Creep that's been mentioned here has also brought me results. Recently with a fused rotor on a '96, and gas tank strap bolts on a 2002. I'm actually soaking 17 year old break lines and bleeders in the Creep stuff for service tomorrow.


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## vinnycom (Nov 6, 2017)

Bondo 287 said:


> I'll be the fly in the ointment here, ( pardon the pun ? ) but I have no faith whatsoever in PB Blaster. I don't know why everybody likes it. It's good for refreshing rusty nuts and bolts on reassembly, but really, has never, never, resolved a stuck-rusty-fused incident for me. I call it "placebo blaster" because it's something else that eventually resolves the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I work on old cars, and the Trans fluid / Acetone mix, and SeaFoam's Deep Creep that's been mentioned here has also brought me results. Recently with a fused rotor on a '96, and gas tank strap bolts on a 2002. I'm actually soaking 17 year old break lines and bleeders in the Creep stuff for service tomorrow.


agreed, seems atf mixed 50/50 with acetone seems to be as good as any bought penetrating oil


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

rminnehan said:


> Be careful or you could bend it. I had one I tried everything on including bringing it to an auto body shop. I finally took a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel and cut the length of the shaft. This worked but the unit had gotten bent. Putting it back together was no problem but it was not something I could sell as the shaft would wobble when engaged so I have been using it myself for a couple of years. Works great.


Wow so the body shop was unsuccessful? I am debating reaching out to an old buddy who is a mechanic at a dealer. Curious what they tried.

When you Dremel'ed what did you cut the length of the shaft, the auger tube?


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

silenttracks said:


> What about a hub puller set? Is there any way you could angle grind a notch in a big old truck hub, then slip that over the shaft, and attach the puller to the hub lug nuts and press against your existing auger shaft?
> 
> Also, what about using 4x4's / jigs to firmly fasten one end of the assembly to a bench or vertical studs. Then you can hit the auger shaft with an air hammer from one end.
> 
> I have never had augers THAT stuck, don't know what I would do there. Good luck. Buy stock in PB Blaster, and a couple tanks of MAPP.


That's what I think I will do after trying acetone/atf and heat.

I tried something similar with other pullers but couldn't get the right combo of things to fit right.


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

Bondo 287 said:


> I'll be the fly in the ointment here, ( pardon the pun ? ) but I have no faith whatsoever in PB Blaster. I don't know why everybody likes it. It's good for refreshing rusty nuts and bolts on reassembly, but really, has never, never, resolved a stuck-rusty-fused incident for me. I call it "placebo blaster" because it's something else that eventually resolves the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I work on old cars, and the Trans fluid / Acetone mix, and SeaFoam's Deep Creep that's been mentioned here has also brought me results. Recently with a fused rotor on a '96, and gas tank strap bolts on a 2002. I'm actually soaking 17 year old break lines and bleeders in the Creep stuff for service tomorrow.


I have to agree about PB Blaster. I've had a can for years that is now out of air and I don't think it has helped a rusted stuck part.

I just was about to pick up a can of liquid wrench but found this site: https://backyardtoolshed.com/best-penetrating-oil/

Looks like ATF/acetone is by far the best. I have an old bottle of ATF so I just picked up some nail polish remover instead (100% acetone)! 

I'll give it a shot and report back to this thread.


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## Bondo 287 (Jan 31, 2019)

Rob Chang said:


> I have to agree about PB Blaster. I've had a can for years that is now out of air and I don't think it has helped a rusted stuck part.
> 
> I just was about to pick up a can of liquid wrench but found this site: https://backyardtoolshed.com/best-penetrating-oil/
> 
> ...


Good Luck. I did the brake line on the old Santa Fe Saturday. Connections/ Compression fittings under the driver section junction area and back at the rubber section to the real wheel looked like something a diver would see on the Titanic. 

I had it soaking 2 days in deep creep since I was going to do the job Saturday. Then I attacked. I went back and forth, just a little to get some stress going, and the gave it another shot of the sauce. Left and right again. Just "waking it up" here. Little more torque now. Slowly it started to move 1/8" of travel. This is where everybody keeps going and snaps bolts, breaks eazy outs, or strips heads. I stopped, added more anti seize and drove the fitting back in. Then back out the 1/8" repeatedly. This carries the lubricant further up the threads. Drove in and out a couple times, got 1/4 turn, added more sauce, back in and out we go. Little gains. More sauce. In and out. The span get getting wider. Had it out in about two minutes. Did this again on the other end. This is how I do it.


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## Bondo 287 (Jan 31, 2019)

@Rob Chang did you dremmel slits in the auger housing? Not necessarily gonna suggest it, just wondering. I'd stand it up, with a little artist's brush see if you can get the ATF mix to travel down. Possibly tap around the auger housing where you are applying it and see if you can get it to seep in. Pull your shear pins and try that access as well. Wear goggles. especially if doing this on a bench at eye level. Acetone in the eyeballs will not be good.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I don't want to speak for anyone else, but what I was suggesting was cutting a partial-length slit in (through) the auger tube, along its length. 

Not in the inner steel shaft from the gearbox. Just through the visible tube that forms the "spine" of the augers, and slips over the shaft from the gearbox.


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

Just a quick update: I worked on this some more over the long weekend and got no where. 

I got some acetone and made the 50/50 mix with ATF as you can see in the pic. I tried heating the auger tube with the propane torch I had to let the 50/50 seep between it and the shaft then tried to lever the auger around the tube with 2x3s. The rakes bend so much that the paint flakes off in big chunks.

Thinking on what to try next.


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## strtch5881 (Oct 6, 2018)

When I have to remove locked tiller tines, this is what worked for me. I would support the tube and bounce a hammer along the length of the tube. The tube has to be supported directly under the hammer blow and you must allow the hammer to bounce.


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

strtch5881 said:


> When I have to remove locked tiller tines, this is what worked for me. I would support the tube and bounce a hammer along the length of the tube. The tube has to be supported directly under the hammer blow and you must allow the hammer to bounce.


Thanks I will give that a try!


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Rob Chang said:


> Just a quick update: I worked on this some more over the long weekend and got no where.
> 
> Thinking on what to try next.


Don't do anything drastic. I will post a picture and video of what to do. However later in the week and weekend, now it's cold, raining & snowy tomorrow.

I made a puller for rusted wheels and have used it for augers. My first choice for augers is heat oxy acet and two long handled pipe wrenches. You can heat the auger tube glowing red, just short of melting. It will come off. You cannot put the pipe wrench on the glowing section as you will distort it. BUT for your situation, the puller should work. I cannot show you on a auger but can show you the setup and it working pulling on a wheel. There will be a tremendous amount of pulling pressure on the auger. If it does not come off, you apply more and wait, marking the shaft to check for movement, applying heat with oxy acet or MAPP, and you go back to it throughout the day. You set it up near the centerline of the shaft so you are not bending the auger rakes. It's fully adjustable and adaptable. I've made adapters for different situations, wheels, augers, cast iron flywheels, pulleys, gears. It starts with a specific type of factory made gear puller, mine is Snap-On, that I used as the base puller then I've made the adapters from there.


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

I just did one of the same machines and augers last week. I used a torch similar to the MAP set up you asked about, and it worked. What I discovered was the plastic spacers on the auger shaft had rusted onto the shaft and the auger.
Short story, I sprayed in lots of PB Blaster, let it sit overnight, and heated the shaft until the smell of plastic melting was filling my shop with smoke (should note, do this outside or in an open area.
I used a rubber mallet on both the inside and outside of the auger, pounding on it until the auger started moving..then knocked it off. 
Not a fun job, took over an hour per auger, and when I finished I removed all of the residual melted plastic.
The augers were not damaged, although the plastic bushings were.
Next job was to clean up the auger shaft, which had a fair amount of oxidation, but with a brass wheel in my drill (safety glasses and gloves), I got most of the build up off. I then finished with emery cloth and oil..
A lot of time consuming work...but mission accomplished, I got cleaned up and had a beer.
BTW, I also had to use my 12 ton press to remove one wheel..


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Here's a couple of additional thoughts. Throw the auger assembly into a snowbank over night to get it very cold. Now the next morning I use a mapp torch to heat the outside of the shaft on the auger rakes. As I proceed, I use a propane torch to keep the heated areas warm. The idea there is the metal of the auger rakes is thinner than the auger shaft so hopefully it will expand faster breaking the bond between the auger rake and the shaft.
I also made a holder that will hold the shaft vertically and cushion the opposite end of the shaft. I made up a 'driver' that just fits over the shaft and presses up against the end of the auger rake. Taking some whacks at it with a maul, with luck will crack it loose. Once it shows some movement, then it's onto the hydraulic press to remove the auger rakes.


Once it's off, I disassemble it and clean up the shaft with sander and run wire brushes through the inside of the auger rakes. Rustoleum the shaft and do what I can through the inside of the rakes. Insure they assemble easily prior to final reassembly. Once it's ready to go, I antiseize the length of the shaft and I've had it work well for me.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

HCBPH - You've mentioned the driver before, good idea as not to mushroom the end. For those who can't make one, a deep impact socket would work. What's even better, the snowbank overnight! That's genius. Using the propane to keep it heated is a smart idea, it's cheaper than MAPP, and not as loud. I use Never-Seize, can't go wrong with coating the shaft then coating on top with synthetic grease. I believe if initially synthetic was used instead of dino grease, we wouldn't be having these problems.


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

Thanks all for the encouragement and suggestions. I was near giving up. Weighing my options I'm thinking about reaching out to my mechanic buddy who works at a Toyota dealership. I am pretty sure he has an oxy/acet torch and is really resourceful. I just want this thing done as I'm sick of shoveling snow and this taking up half the garage!

I'd rather try to do something at home myself first but don't want to spend too much money either to get this going. I'm thinking I might do some sort of puller, buy some Liquid Wrench and possibly buy a MAPP torch (even though it's not supposedly much hotter than the propane one I have).
@JLawrence08648 - I look forward to the pic/video. I don't have any means for metalworking/welding so my options may be limited. I thought you were the one that created the thread I have saved on a similar idea, but I see now that was Dodge (thread here: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/for...w-remove-seized-augers-typical-hs80-hs55.html)
@3vanman - so you used one of those small MAPP torches? I just learned that real MAPP gas went away in 2008 and what they put in yellow bottles today is only mildy hotter than propane. Curious on your experiences.
@HCBPH - I have been waiting for a sub-freezing day to throw the augers into the snowbank and thinking about picking up a yellow bottle torch. Thanks again for sending your doc on your methods. I wish I had a press. 
@Bondo 287, @RedOctobyr - I did not Dremel any slits into the auger tube. I'm trying to be least desctructive as possible at first. It doesn't seem like the ATF/Acetone is going in between the tube and shaft as well as Deep Creep did. I did also try to pour it into the shear pin holes (both shear pins have been out and shot at). I did try to get some into the other end of the shaft as well.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Like I originally posted. Heat.... LOTS and *LOTS* of heat. You're gonna have to get that auger tube pretty much red hot.
Keep us posted. We want to hear about your win.:smile2:


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Totally understand not wanting to cut into the augers and be destructive. Just don't be so non-destructive that you break a weld on the augers  

A "lightly destructive" option could be drilling a few holes in the auger tube, just barely into the auger shaft. These would give you other places to add penetrating oil, along the shaft. 

If there was a way to connect a grease gun at the shear pin hole, that would be cool. You could force grease in between the tube and shaft.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Rob

Here's a few more ideas. I have the HF 12 ton press. Use the 20% off coupon and it goes for around $100. If you do a few blowers, it is well worth the $$ IMO. An alternate to that is use something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/gear-puller-set-15-pc-62958.html
Put a small dimple on the end of the shaft, put the grabber end below the rakes crosses (don't tighten so much that you crush the tube) and you can put tension on it while you heat and rap the tube of the rake and hopefully crack it loose.
Now if you don't have the tools, look for a blacksmith, machinist or maybe a place that build custom cars. All 3 should have the necessary tools to get the auger rakes loose.


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

I find the yellow bottled MAPP much warmer than the propane, and I have actually used it to heat an older 1 1/4 inch open box end wrench and bend it. On thin metal it will turn the metal red hot.
Are you using the MAPP torch head, or a propane torch head?
I heated the augers (not the shaft) until the stench of melting plastic was almost unbearable, and the end of the auger tube was smoking. 
In recall I then held the end of the shaft with a large pipe wrench, and twisted the augers back and forth, sprayed more PB Blaster in, heated again, and after about 10 or 11 repeats I got movement. Do not put the pipe wrench on the auger assembly..on the end of the shaft worked best. Guess I'm a stubborn old guy, because I was determined this was not going to beat me. 
When spraying the BP Blaster, I used the shear pin hole, liberally sprayed both ends as well. 
You could try locking one end of the auger shaft in a vise and heating the entire auger tube until it is to hot to touch, and wearing a pair of welding or leather gloves, grab the end of the auger and try turning it, twist a little each way...once it starts twisting, more heat and a dead blow hammer or a rubber mallet.


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## Rob Chang (Nov 18, 2018)

Thanks for all the additional tips and ideas. I have not given up just haven't had a chance to get back to it. I did buy this though so I'm hopeful something will happen!


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