# Ariens Pro 32 Automatic Turn problem and drive slipping problems



## steveg_nh (Feb 3, 2015)

I have a 3 year old Ariens Pro 32 blower (model 926039). So far it's been a great machine. And the two problems are having aren't major issues, but I'd like to get them resolved. 

The first is the auto turn feature. Mine is labelled "Automatic Turning Control, triggerless control" on the control panel. Problem is, it rarely seems to work. I read the threads about adjusting it, but it's not that it's pulling. It tracks nice and straight, but when I put pressure on a handle, it never really turns. If I keep the drive engaged, both wheels are spinning at the same speed. Maybe at higher gears, it works a bit, not sure if it's my imagination. But it's definitely not working at the slower speeds. Is this just an easy adjustment too? 

Also, I've noticed when I'm blowing deep fluffy snow, the friction drive seems to slip a lot. It just goes nowhere and then it starts to grip again and move. It seems as if snow/water is making its way into the gearcase. Should there be seals or anything there keeping it all dry? Could it just be time for a new friction wheel already? The machine only has about 30 hrs on it total.

Thanks guys.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The ATC or Automatic Traction Control on yours was their first attempt at auto turn. That was a one year only thing and for the past couple years it has been replaced with the auto turn style. I am not sure what was wrong with that design, but I think the newer ones turn easier so it might be working as designed.

There was an upgrade kit available. I think all you actually need is the large differential gear. I think the axles are the same.

For the drive slipping watch this video.


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

You have the Hilliard automatic differential. It is different than auto-turn.
Hilliard is a historic American company









The Auto Turn is a French product of the General Transmission company.

They are both similar devices, but apparently the GT auto-turn is either more effective or cheaper to stick on new blowers.

Since you do have the Hilliard you do not need the retrofit kit, you can leave it be or buy just the GT differential($120), they both use the same splines, so you don't need the kit that comes with new axles.

There is an old thread where a member has documented the switchover if you search around.

------------------
There is an engine baffle kit to stop water from getting near the belt, but i think yours is new enough it should come with one.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

If you do have the ATC (Hilliard), I'm guessing there may be some on this forum willing to trade you their AutoTurn for your ATC. 

Your drive issue may be as easy as a simple adjustment of the cable.


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

JRHAWK9 said:


> If you do have the ATC (Hilliard), I'm guessing there may be some on this forum willing to trade you their AutoTurn for your ATC.
> 
> Your drive issue may be as easy as a simple adjustment of the cable.


JR, aren't you the one that has tried both? My guess is very few will be able to speak of a side by side comparo as the Hilliard is so scarce and now NLA.


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

HillnGullyRider said:


> JR, aren't you the one that has tried both? My guess is very few will be able to speak of a side by side comparo as the Hilliard is so scarce and now NLA.


Yes I am. The ATC doesn't unlock nearly as easy as the AutoTurn. My ATC would unlock fine at real slow speeds, but seemed to not want to unlock at faster speeds.


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

So if you put the machine in first gear before initiating a turn it would work fine? That sounds like the opposite of what the OP is describing.



JRHAWK9 said:


> Your drive issue may be as easy as a simple adjustment of the cable.


He has no cable


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 6, 2013)

HillnGullyRider said:


> So if you put the machine in first gear before initiating a turn it would work fine? That sounds like the opposite of what the OP is describing.
> 
> 
> 
> He has no cable


yeah, first gear it would seem to work. It's been awhile though since I used it.

He has a cable to adjust the pressure placed on the plate by the friction wheel.


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

JRHAWK9 said:


> He has a cable to adjust the pressure placed on the plate by the friction wheel.


So too much forward drive my cause it not to unlock? Isn't there a spring inside the differential as well? I wonder if that may cause a problem if it's too stiff or too weak?


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## steveg_nh (Feb 3, 2015)

Hey guys, thanks for all the info. Sorry I didn't get back to the forum until today.

So to be clear, it seems to work better at slower speeds as mentioned. Above second speed, it doesn't seem to want to unlock. Kind of defeats the purpose. 

Now in reading between the lines, is the Hillard actually the more desirable system? Someone mentioned that someone might want to trade for it, so that makes me think it's considered better, even though it's not used anymore? 

I can't tell from looking at the manual if there is any adjustments for it. I really would like to get it working right, as it's a heavy machine to manhandle.


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

Does the machine turn easy when the engine is off? or do both wheels seem locked? If it turns easy then it's probably working as intended.

The problem in answering your question is that that differential was only available for one or two seasons, and only then on the high end pro grade machines. Most of us will never get to use one in order to give you any good advice. JR is one of the few that has done the switch, but even that may not be good enough for an accurate comparison as memories do fade. My guess is; the Hilliard = tracks straighter, harder to turn. Autoturn = Does not always track straight, effortless turn.
You'd really have to have two exact machines, both on the same driveway, both in the same snow and traction conditions. Each machine has only the Hilliard or autoturn as the difference...Then try to make an accurate comparison. Wait until snow conditions change, then repeat the process until you find what works best for your set of needs.

Or, you could buy the AT diff...Test your machine with the Hilliard, then spend an hour and switch diffs, then retest.


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## steveg_nh (Feb 3, 2015)

Interesting. Yeah, it tracks really straight, no complaints at all. And slight turns are no problem, it's just the tight 180 degree turn that never really seems to do what's advertised. When the engine is off, it turns no problem. The diff is definitely unlocked. Even when the motor is running, as long as the drive mechanism isn't engaged, it turns easy...


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

So if you release the clutch then it autoturns? what about in 1st or 2nd gear? If you can live with that, you probably wouldn't need the autoturn. The one thing about the auto turn is it actually releases so fully that it allows one wheel to rotate in reverse while the other is under power, I don't believe that is the case with the Hilliard.


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## steveg_nh (Feb 3, 2015)

If I release the clutch (drive handle) it WILL turn, but I wouldn't say it auto turns, because it's not under power anymore. It's ok in 1 and 2, although 1 is so slow, I hardly use it unless I'm going through the mounds at the end of the driveway left by the plow. I wish it worked better in 3 and 4. 

So is there no adjustment on the Hillard at all?


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## HillnGullyRider (Feb 9, 2014)

Not unless you take the differential apart and maybe fool around with the spring pressure, but that is way beyond the scope of the average consumer.


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