# Possible Honda Quality Problem



## JustASnowBlower03!

I just took a look at my new Honda HS928 auger housing a noticed several through gaps along the top edge of the horizontal tube (see attachment). I also stopped by the local dealer and noticed that several of the new units on the floor had a similar appearance but not as bad. I am concerned that snow/ice will build up in the gap as well a blow back under the shroud cover.




Robert, is this quality problem?


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## [email protected]

JustASnowBlower03! said:


> I just took a look at my new Honda HS928 auger housing a noticed several through gaps along the top edge of the horizontal tube (see attachment). I also stopped by the local dealer and noticed that several of the new units on the floor had a similar appearance but not as bad. I am concerned that snow/ice will build up in the gap as well a blow back under the shroud cover.
> 
> Robert, is this quality problem?


(1) So the HS928 has been discontinued (globally) for about two years now. I don't have one at our facility I can inspect, but its replacement, the HSS928, does not have the gaps shown in your photo here. 

(2) Are you looking a brand-new units at an American Honda location, or @ a Honda Canada location?


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## JustASnowBlower03!

Terrible speller here. It's a HSS928 that I purchased a month ago and all the ones I looked at today have the gaps. Ugh.


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## JustASnowBlower03!

I purchased it in the Boston area.


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## Coby7

Maybe Honda should send you a tube of red silicone caulking so you can seal the gap. lol


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## DriverRider

The assembly looks to be excellent for the closest possible impeller gap and I would not be losing any sleep over THAT.:smile2:


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## tdipaul

The gaps around the circular impeller chamber are intentional and introduce air into the snow. 

A vented impeller chamber, so to speak. 

This makes the snow rocket out of the chute

Thus the secret to Honda's superb throwing distance has finally been discovered!

. 
.


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## FLSTN

Definite Honda Quality Problem ! Wouldn't spend my 2,500.00 ish dollars on that.
The tube of red silicone caulking comment was funny.

To the Thread starter... I would take that blower back to where you purchased it and DEMAND a full refund ASAP ! Call Visa if you charged it and open a dispute case, send them some new USA made HSS blower owner complaints from the forum(you'll have to do some reading to find them all).

Then find and buy a nice used proven Japan made HS928.

Good luck.


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## drumsonly2002

My Honda is a feature rich machine. The metal is too thin as I guess it is for weight considerations. If the was metal thicker, I would respect the pricing of Honda. Honda is made for paved driveways and is wonderful for that. My old 10/28 track did not have the looks or features but would spank the Honda with durability and price. 

My inner impeller housing needs rebuilding for the Honda. I really like my Honda and will rebuild it better than factory. Got a used 8/28 Yamaha and curious as to how that will hold up. It's an old unit but appears to be a great machine. All being said, looking forward to fixing the Honda as it is the Caddalic of snowblowers. 

I have a really old single stage MTD that would put any new blower to shame with build quality.


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## Cardo111

The fact that Robert from Honda stated the ones at headquarters don't have that gap in and of itself would prompt me to return it. Have the dealer pick it up at his/her expense if you don't have a truck w/ramps or a trailer. Honda makes a high end machine and it's reflective in their pricing, whether or not the newer models are inferior or superior to the Japan built machines they replace I don't know as I have no experience with either. Like any new endeavor there will be growing pains and a learning curve. I would request that they check the replacement unit to make certain the impeller tunnel housing has the tighter tolerance on the replacement unit before delivering it to you. Hopefully there are still some available if not use yours and get your replacement next year.

I am not sure this large gap would impact real world performance as it likely was not enough of a defect to make it fail the quality control inspection but it may have slipped through the cracks. I am also more retentive than most about fit and finish but at this price point it is to be expected. Best of luck with this and keep us posted.


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## drmerdp

Mine does not have that gap. I’d Exchange it.


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## [email protected]

Some confusion here I see...

The OP has an older production HS model. Some dealers have leftover stock that is still 'brand new' even though that model was discontinued about two years ago.

My comment about 'no gaps' was based on the new-design HSS model. The auger housings are different; newer HSS on the left, older HS on the right:











Any gaps (like those shown by the OP) on older HS machines should not affect performance. Our engineer (over 25 years working on these machines) tells me he's never heard of any issues related to the gaps, including any issues with clogging in the gap area, premature rusting, etc.


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## nwcove

JustASnowBlower03! said:


> Terrible speller here. It's a HSS928 that I purchased a month ago and all the ones I looked at today have the gaps. Ugh.


........


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## drmerdp

Are you sure you have an HSS?

Here’s my HSS. No gaps. 










Welds are on the outside.


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## leonz

If the OP could provide us with a larger image it would help. 

I agree that the impeller housing should have a solid weld or electric rivet type weld to close the gap between the cross auger housing and the impeller housing. 

What I see there is an open invitation for ice to build up and an avenue for rust to develop and cause issues in the future. 

Short of gas welding it(the gaps) with a thick bed of gas welding rod with the flux covering and then repainting the weldment where the cross auger housing meets the impeller housing. 

At this point I would take it back if I do not have access to an acetylene torch with gas welding rods or a wire welder.


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## leonz

Hello Missleman, 

If I was you I would take yours back too only because there is no seal between the cross auger housing and the impeller housing that will let melt water enter and freeze expand and crack the weldment over time.

If you do not take it back are you going to remove the restriction/concentrator plate at the base of the chute on your snowblower?

Caulking it would not be a better remedy than gas welding it to seal the gaps that are there as the caulk would be subject to freeze thaw cycles and friction from the movement of snow and ice to the center of the cross auger housing and then into the impeller housing.


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## JnC

The design of the HS series is completely different than the HSS series. 

In the case of HS series the lip in the bucket sits on the inside of the impeller tunnel and gets welds on the outside, so even if there were gaps they wont be visible as youd have to look from the inside of the impeller tunnel to see the gaps due to tolerance. 

In the case of HSS I see that the bucket lip sits on the outside of the impeller tunnel, hence the gap is visible. I'd be only worried if snow/salt etc is making its way through the gap onto the other side. 

HSS bucket from the outside, notice the lip over the impeller tunnel













HS series bucket, notice the lip sitting on the inside of the tunnel


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## AriensPro1128

It would be nice if the posters with supposed Honda defects from the factory would post the model and serial number (accurately, I might add) so Robert from Honda can verify the information. I don't believe Honda has a quality control issue. I also don't believe that manufacturing methods would vary from one machine to the next. BTW, I have an Ariens, not a Honda. I just hate to see a company's reputation trashed needlessly.


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## JustASnowBlower03!

Interesting responses so let me clear a few things up. My snowblower was purchased in October 2017 brand new and I even asked the dealer to give me the most recently received unit. Not sure he did but the exact model number is HSS928AAW. The serial number is SADA-1017860. The units I looked at this week from a different dealer were also new. My gaps are bigger than all the other units so I will wait to see if it affects performance before I try and return it but I am concerned about the accumulation of snow and ice leading to problems in the future. I am confident that Robert now has all the right information he and Honda will investigate it and let me and others know if this is a manufacturing defect and will address it just like they have with the 5 Honda cars that we own. I can only hope Robert can get to the bottom of it in a reasonable amount of time. Thanks Robert for taking the time out of your busy day to investigate.

PS thanks to those that have investigated this perceived problem.


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## Coby7

missileman said:


> The one on the left is a photo of mine,the other three was sent from the salesman that sold it to me.those are makes on the floor display A 928 and a 1332.He said the only one he could see that didn't have gaps was the HSS724,that 1332 really have gaps but,he told me ,not to lose any sleep over it,it will not affect the operation of the blower.Still this is poor quality workmanship.
> 
> IMG_0122.JPG[/URL


Looks like you're going to need some of that bright red Honda silicone caulking too.:icon_smile_big: Seems like it's going to be a popular item.


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## Freezn

Snow clogged discharge chutes and poorly sealed impeller tunnels. This is what happens when you tinker with Coke Classic.... 

Door is open for a Yamaha re-launch in the U.S.


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## 1132le

Salt will get in there in rust that for sure
For that kind of money no way i keep that
but iam brutal


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## drmerdp

Coby7 said:


> Looks like you're going to need some of that bright red Honda silicone caulking too.:icon_smile_big: Seems like it's going to be a popular item.


The color is “Power Red”. 

Seriously though, I agree that that gap leaves the door open for salt to accumulate and rust.

It’s a great that you caught it, and I still think you should exchange it for another HSS928.


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## nwcove

Freezn said:


> Snow clogged discharge chutes and poorly sealed impeller tunnels. This is what happens when you tinker with Coke Classic....
> 
> Door is open for a Yamaha re-launch in the U.S.


the gaps could be engineered in for an alternate route for snow to exit if the clogging issue arose.


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## Freezn

nwcove said:


> the gaps could be engineered in for an alternate route for snow to exit if the clogging issue arose.


True, and maybe the headlight was engineered to provide a secondary source of heat to melt the snow accumulating in the impeller tunnel gap :wink2:


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## 1132le

Freezn said:


> True, and maybe the headlight was engineered to provide a secondary source of heat to melt the snow accumulating in the impeller tunnel gap :wink2:


Ive heard it all now (shakes head)


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## gormleyflyer2002

OMG that dealer sells trials bikes and snowblowers..............glad i don't live there, OH my LOC would be in big trouble  

I have a new (this month) 1332, tight at top and small gap at bottom. Bottom clearance between and impeller is tighter than top. Considering it's a snowblower and not a surgical instrument - NOT VERY WORRIED.

if bigger gap equals tighter impeller clearance then maybe not a bad thing..........bring on the silicone


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## leonz

*Honda QC/welds*



JustASnowBlower03! said:


> Interesting responses so let me clear a few things up. My snowblower was purchased in October 2017 brand new and I even asked the dealer to give me the most recently received unit. Not sure he did but the exact model number is HSS928AAW. The serial number is SADA-1017860. The units I looked at this week from a different dealer were also new. My gaps are bigger than all the other units so I will wait to see if it affects performance before I try and return it but I am concerned about the accumulation of snow and ice leading to problems in the future. I am confident that Robert now has all the right information he and Honda will investigate it and let me and others know if this is a manufacturing defect and will address it just like they have with the 5 Honda cars that we own. I can only hope Robert can get to the bottom of it in a reasonable amount of time. Thanks Robert for taking the time out of your busy day to investigate.
> 
> PS thanks to those that have investigated this perceived problem.


=======================================================================


If you wait they may not willingly take it back and provide you with a replacement. Its a defect plain and simple probably due to the bean counters stipulating how much weld to use per inch of circumference of the impeller housing.

Its no different than what I had to deal with at the fire truck builder I worked for where the fire pump frames were not welded to spec where the third set of pump mounting tabs were never welded to the channel iron support frame for the pump and quite a number of them were sent out that way. 

I mentioned it to my supervisor and I do not know if the units that were sent out as finished were ever repaired as the fire pumps did not have adequate support without those right angle weldments on the pump mounting frames that were secured to the chassis of the fire rescue trucks. 

In that case it was either the welder or the draftsman that made that mistake.


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## leonz

They forgot to install the snow making nozzles in the gaps for when the snow melts and they can pump the water through the nozzles to make new snow for the driveways and sidewalks.


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## tdipaul

All joking aside maybe its just a normal, acceptable variance in the manufacturing process

For example, look at these two cub cadets...

no gap



gap


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## E350

JustASnowBlower03! said:


> I just took a look at my new Honda HS928 auger housing a noticed several through gaps along the top edge of the horizontal tube (see attachment). I also stopped by the local dealer and noticed that several of the new units on the floor had a similar appearance but not as bad. I am concerned that snow/ice will build up in the gap as well a blow back under the shroud cover.
> 
> Robert, is this quality problem?


*JustASnowBlower03*: Would you mind posting up some additional pictures of the impeller tunnel where it meets the auger bucket? And also showing how close the impellers are to the tunnel? 

On the impeller that you show, it looks like you have a pretty good tight clearance between the impellers and the tunnel, which would make for a very efficient snowthrower.

Do any impellers rub on the inside of the impeller tunnel? In other words are the impellers perfectly centered?

Is that gap all the way around? If so I wonder if the I.D. tunnel diameter was spec'd to the O.D. impeller diameter and the O.D. hole in the auger bucket was spec'd too large for the O.D. of the impeller tunnel?

When you look at different machines really look at the impeller clearance.

IMHO I would keep a machine with a centered, tight clearance impeller tunnel to impeller and have it mig or tig welded to eliminate the gaps (maybe with a little $ help from Honda) than exchange it for machine with a larger tunnel which may mate to the auger bucket with no gap, but has a bigger gap between the impeller tunnel and the impellers.

It would be good to see more photos of your unit and other units for comparison.

Like *Leonz *says, it may have been tack welded for center, but the welding was never completed. That is what I think I see in the photos of the two Cub Cadet machines posted by *tdipaul*. There is a gap in both machines. But the gap on the first machine is welded shut. While in the second machine, the gap between the tack welds is not covered by weld (or silicone?).


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## AriensHydroPro28*

That's a good point, no manufacturer makes a perfect machine. When I was in the market for a real good quality snowblower I looked long and hard at the Honda's. They are real nice and are built well. I also looked at Ariens. I narrowed it down to 3 models. The first, an Ariens 24 Platinum, the second, the Ariens Hydro Pro and the third, a Honda HSS 1332 AT. I eliminated the Platinum because I wanted a hydro transmission. When seeing the Ariens Pro aside of the Honda HSS 1332 AT in person, the first thing you notice it the size difference, the Ariens Pro is a larger, heavier machine and the metal felt much rigid when pushing down on the bucket and provided a solid contractor grade feeling, when comparing the two first hand. The Ariens Pro Hydro also weighed in at over 75 lbs. more than the Honda and it's mostly due to heavier/more steel construction and reinforcements throughout. I look at the Honda, as a Ford F-150 1/2 ton truck, loaded with leather interior and every option available, electric windows (electric*chute control) real plush and nice. I look at the Ariens Pro as a F-350 1 Ton truck, more basic, with minimal options and crank windows (manual chute control) but built tougher. The F-350 would be the one I would attach a plow to. You can attach a plow to the F-150 but it wouldn't do the same amount of work a the larger, more powerful and heavier truck. I'm sure many would totally disagree but that was my viewpoint on the two when viewing them side by side.*They are both built real nice.


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## JustASnowBlower03!

ES350: I'll post some pics on Friday and include some measurements. Hopefully, this is a nonissue but I guess until [email protected] completes his investigation and reports his findings we really will not know whether it's a miss from the units final inspection or whether it's due to a normal manufacturing variance. It is odd though as I would have expected the products design and process failure mode investigations which have to be completed as part of normal product development to have called out this as a risk for corrosion and thus triggered a mitigation. Thanks to Tidipaul for going to the trouble of posting Cub Cadets pics. It gives me something to look at the next time I go the Home Depot.


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## nwcove

tdipaul said:


> All joking aside maybe its just a normal, acceptable variance in the manufacturing process
> 
> For example, look at these two cub cadets...
> 
> no gap
> 
> 
> 
> gap


:surprise: omg......when did comparing the fit and finish of an mtd to that of a honda become a viable argument ?


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## Freezn

missileman said:


> I didn't like blue and it would remind me of the Toronto Maple Leafs every time I use it lol.


Classic!!!!! :grin:


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## Coby7

missileman said:


> Has for the price of it no big deal,I didn't like the Yamaha,because I didn't like blue and it would remind me of the Toronto Maple Leafs every time I use it lol.


Difference there is the Yamaha would have been a winner and no need for Blue silicone sealer. :smiley16:


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## tdipaul

nwcove said:


> :surprise: omg......when did comparing the fit and finish of an mtd to that of a honda become a viable argument ?


big gap/small gap/no gap I'd still take a Honda over almost everything else. 

This is all you need to know...


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## jrom

tdipaul said:


> big gap/small gap/no gap I'd still take a Honda over almost everything else...


I agree.

I've got about 3" worth of gaps between 11 and 2 o'clock on my 1332.

I'll probably use some 3M Urethane Seam Sealer and call it a day.

Both of my Honda's are great machines. 

I clear between 15 and 30 feet of wet heavy snow a year...on a 600'+ gravel driveway.

Them Honda's sure have been good to me over the years :smiley-char060:


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## AriensPro1128

Coby7, no silicone but you will need gorilla glue when all of the Yamaha fasteners rust away. 

Seriously, I have an Ariens and the auger housing is only tack welded together. My limited knowledge of welding tells me that sheet metal warps when continuously welded. The auto TV shows that include welding have one place welded and then the guy moves on to another area while the first cools. I repeat my knowledge is very limited so I don't know if warping is a consideration or not.


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## vmax29

I don’t see much of an issue on my HSS1332 I bought end of October. I have to say though, looking at the pictures of that 1336i made me wonder. Aren’t those things like 8k? It looked like some big space in there! 

Here’s a picture of mine. There is no big gap to speak of except a small space by 1 o’clock position. And it doesn’t look like much. Compare that with the old MTD (TroyBilt) the housing is flared pressed together and a big old chunk of weld at 9 and 3 hold it all together. There must have been plenty of freeze and thaw going on in there and it has held up fine.


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## jrom

missileman said:


> Great to know from experience.since yours have gaps with no issues,are you experiencing any corrosion or rust where the gaps are.


Not a bit.

This winter will be its third.


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## Coby7

AriensPro1128 said:


> Coby7, no silicone but you will need gorilla glue when all of the Yamaha fasteners rust away.


Already replaced them with stainless steel. I hate rust.


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## 10953

AriensPro1128 said:


> Coby7, no silicone but you will need gorilla glue when all of the Yamaha fasteners rust away.
> 
> Seriously, I have an Ariens and the auger housing is only tack welded together. My limited knowledge of welding tells me that sheet metal warps when continuously welded. The auto TV shows that include welding have one place welded and then the guy moves on to another area while the first cools. I repeat my knowledge is very limited so I don't know if warping is a consideration or not.


that's just how we weld in new body panels. weld,gap, cool, weld. if not you get warp gaps like the ops wondering about. anything more than a 1/4 inch in thin steel makes big heat that gap is from the weld heat, simple mass production 

brass tacks in mass production. robotic stampings, metal jigs with alignment pins that allow movement , robotic spot welding end result is gaps that leave no running problems, 

if any ever saw the gaps of panels on a 911 porsche before seam sealers you would all die. ever watch graveyard cars and see the body alignment jigs? some of those holes in the sheet metal are 3 times that of the pins in the jig


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## E350

*tdipaul*: That's some beautiful snowthrower pron there buddy. And posted by a Toro man no less!

I love my HS1132TA (the model depicted). I would likely love an HS1332TA or an HSS1332ATD even more.

I would have no problem either siliconing or sanding and welding to plug up the gaps to prevent stuff getting stuck in the gap with resulting rust.


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## drmerdp

jrom said:


> I agree.
> 
> I've got about 3" worth of gaps between 11 and 2 o'clock on my 1332.
> 
> I'll probably use some 3M Urethane Seam Sealer and call it a day.
> 
> Both of my Honda's are great machines.
> 
> I clear between 15 and 30 feet of wet heavy snow a year...on a 600'+ gravel driveway.
> 
> Them Honda's sure have been good to me over the years :smiley-char060:


3m urethane seam sealer is legit! I’ve used it for al sorts of things including to fill in the air gaps on control arm bushings and engine mounts. Bump up the durameter to greater then rubber, more comfortable them polyurethane.


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## Cardo111

tdipaul said:


> big gap/small gap/no gap I'd still take a Honda over almost everything else.
> 
> This is all you need to know...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfOQJXPZlD4


IMHO hands down the best snowblower video on YouTube. I remember watching it when it first came out. Very well done, that vid must have sold a lot of Honda blowers. Honda should send this man a check or at least a new HSS1332 if the have not done so already. The vid may also support the theory that Honda's previous Japan built 2 stage machines were their best yet. I'm just playing devil's advocate, before the responses from the Honda fanboys come pouring in.


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## tdipaul

its my favorite as well 

from dead cold buried under a tarp to absolutely destroying the snow only minutes later

Honda should put a screen shot of the vid in their next brochure and give him credit


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## tdipaul

E350 said:


> *tdipaul*: That's some beautiful snowthrower pron there buddy. And posted by a Toro man no less!
> 
> I love my HS1132TA (the model depicted). I would likely love an HS1332TA or an HSS1332ATD even more.
> 
> I would have no problem either siliconing or sanding and welding to plug up the gaps to prevent stuff getting stuck in the gap with resulting rust.


Im not sponsored by any manufacturer. I like all machines :grin:


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## tdipaul

SnowCat in Bend said:


> The reports of some people, not all people, that experience clogging problems. Similar complaints previously with the Hydrostatic Transmission issues. Now people are finding welding/gap problems.
> 
> With the experience I had with a brand new HSS928, I would have to agree that Honda has a quality control problem.


While the size of the gaps may not affect performance it does seem very un-Honda like to see so much variation. 

(Based on the pics posted so far)


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## tdipaul

drmerdp said:


> 3m urethane seam sealer is legit! I’ve used it for al sorts of things including to fill in the air gaps on control arm bushings and engine mounts. Bump up the durameter to greater then rubber, more comfortable them polyurethane.


Would sealing things up trap moisture and make things worse? 

With gaps at least it can drain and air out. 

And able to spray fluid film or wd40 or in there when desired
.
.


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## Marlow

SnowCat in Bend said:


> The reports of some people, not all people, that experience clogging problems. Similar complaints previously with the Hydrostatic Transmission issues. Now people are finding welding/gap problems.
> 
> With the experience I had with a brand new HSS928, I would have to agree that Honda has a quality control problem.


LOL lets round it up:
Clogging - happens will all snowblowers under the right circumstances, and can mostly be avoided by modifying your operating techniques. 
Transmission issues - for the few that experienced this, they understand like any logical person would that it's a brand new redesign and will be fixed(permanently) under warranty. Name me a new redesign of anything that never had a kink?
This thread? We're talking about slight fit and finish issues on a $3k snowblower. There are fit and finish issues on million dollar cars. It will have no affect on longevity or performance. 

You can keep on spending hours upon hours bashing honda, but you'll never justify to yourself nor anybody else the fact that you traded your perfectly good Honda in for a piece of garbage budget machine that you'll be replacing every few years - all the while that same honda you got rid of will be running strong and performing like a champ for its new owner for decades to come!


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## 10953

Marlow said:


> (post deleted)


i have to agree with you about how far Husqvarna has taken a fall since becoming a conglomerate . i can remember when jonsered was one of the best chainsaws made and know how bad they are now under the conglomerate they have all become box store brand's, 

(Husqvarna,Gardena,McCulloch,PoulanPro,WeedEater,Flymo,Jonsered,Klippo,Diamant Boart,RedMax
Over the years, Husqvarna has even manufactured products for retailers, including Sears.)


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## Cardo111

87 powershift said:


> i have to agree with you about how far Husqvarna has taken a fall since becoming a conglomerate . i can remember when jonsered was one of the best chainsaws made and know how bad they are now under the conglomerate they have all become box store brand's,
> 
> (Husqvarna,Gardena,McCulloch,PoulanPro,WeedEater,Flymo,Jonsered,Klippo,Diamant Boart,RedMax
> Over the years, Husqvarna has even manufactured products for retailers, including Sears.)


Agreed and well said. I bought a new Husky chainsaw 2 or 3 years ago, not a top of the line unit don't have the model number handy, the one right below the farm/ranch model. It was about $350 USD. My Craftsman machines were at least as good. It can't hold a candle to my early '90's Homelite 250 made by Tekron I believe. The Husky saw leaks bar oil like crazy even with the Homelite branded oil that the dealer recommended. It looks nice on the outside but consists of lackluster/cheap build quality and equally poor customer support. 

I should have bought a Stihl.


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## drmerdp

Yeah, Husqvarna has very much dumbed down the power equipment market, just like MTD has. 

Husqvarna does have good professional series chainsaws and demolition saws though. I’d still say the fit and finish is second to Stihl. I gave husqy a good hard look when I was looking for a new chainsaw. Ended up with an Stihl MS362cm. 

In the snowblower hierarchy, I think Husqvarna is just above MTD.


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## JustASnowBlower03!

For those asked I measured the paddle gaps and they looked to be approximately 1/4 inch from the edge of the paddle to the housing. I attached pictures taken at various positions.

For [email protected] I: I attached more pictures of the weld gap. It appears to approximately 8 inches long. One of the pictures was taken with a light under the shroud so that you can see it is a through gap. I am looking forward to hearing back from you today on Honda's preliminary findings. Thanks for taking the time to investigate. I and all the members of the Snowblower forum appreciate your attention to this as well as to all the other request that you get.


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## 351beno

Cardo111 said:


> Agreed and well said. I bought a new Husky chainsaw 2 or 3 years ago, not a top of the line unit don't have the model number handy, the one right below the farm/ranch model. It was about $350 USD. My Craftsman machines were at least as good. It can't hold a candle to my early '90's Homelite 250 made by Tekron I believe. The Husky saw leaks bar oil like crazy even with the Homelite branded oil that the dealer recommended. It looks nice on the outside but consists of lackluster/cheap build quality and equally poor customer support.
> 
> I should have bought a Stihl.


 It sounds like you got a 450 I have seen the vents clog on them or the oil hose can get dry and leak. sometimes going from hot to cold will cause pressure to build up and cause it to purge out. I see it on old and new saws from ever company. That's why I always run them low or out of oil when storing my saws. Stihl also makes cheaper saws that can have issues so its not fair to compare them to older saws that probably cost more at the time. If you got a better built 545 at around $500 it would be a more fair argument.


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## JustASnowBlower03!

JNC: How difficult was it to remove the protective shroud? After the first use I want to remove it and take pictures to see if snow really passes through the gap. Thanks for investigating this.


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## drmerdp

Easy, unclip one connector for the headlight then a 10 mm socket for the bolts holding the cover.


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## rosco61

It looks to me like they weld it like that on purpose. I will look at my HSS when I get home but it's powder coated all the way thru as well. I would bet those engineer types might know what they are doing some of the time.


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## Cardo111

351beno said:


> It sounds like you got a 450 I have seen the vents clog on them or the oil hose can get dry and leak. sometimes going from hot to cold will cause pressure to build up and cause it to purge out. I see it on old and new saws from ever company. That's why I always run them low or out of oil when storing my saws. Stihl also makes cheaper saws that can have issues so its not fair to compare them to older saws that probably cost more at the time. If you got a better built 545 at around $500 it would be a more fair argument.


I appreciate your insights on what may be the problem with my saw. That being said apparently you missed my point. I compared it with my $150. Craftsman saw as well, actually that is unfair to the Craftsman not the defective Husky that I bought for $350. I know we are not talking forestry grade saws at this price point. However as a homeowner for $350. I expect a saw that will be dependable for the once or twice a year I may use it. Additionally their customer support was not helpful in resolving my issue and I'm sure it is out of warranty at this point.


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## 351beno

Cardo111 said:


> 351beno said:
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like you got a 450 I have seen the vents clog on them or the oil hose can get dry and leak. sometimes going from hot to cold will cause pressure to build up and cause it to purge out. I see it on old and new saws from ever company. That's why I always run them low or out of oil when storing my saws. Stihl also makes cheaper saws that can have issues so its not fair to compare them to older saws that probably cost more at the time. If you got a better built 545 at around $500 it would be a more fair argument.
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate your insights on what may be the problem with my saw. That being said apparently you missed my point. I compared it with my $150. Craftsman saw as well, actually that is unfair to the Craftsman not the defective Husky that I bought for $350. I know we are not talking forestry grade saws at this price point. However as a homeowner for $350. I expect a saw that will be dependable for the once or twice a year I may use it. Additionally their customer support was not helpful in resolving my issue and I'm sure it is out of warranty at this point.
Click to expand...

Any husky in the 400 line should be better than a sears (probably built by poulan aka cheapest husky). I have not sold one that can't be fixed. I know it sucks when a defective saw is sold but husky has always gone above when we have a problem with one. Which is vary rare. I get a lot more sears saws in with problems after little to no use than with an other saw. You must have got the good one.


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## sscotsman

Lets try to keep the topic on Honda snowblowers please..not Husqvarna chainsaws. 
Scot


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## Coby7

Guys this thread is about Honda precision manufacturing quality, please don't hijack. Start your own Husqvarna or Sears bad quality thread, should be plenty to talk about there.


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## jrom

tdipaul said:


> Would sealing things up trap moisture and make things worse?
> 
> With gaps at least it can drain and air out.
> 
> And able to spray fluid film or wd40 or in there when desired.


In case you're right, I will keep an eye on my gaps and spray fluid film in them. If we end up hearing from Honda (or others) on what is the best approach, then I'll use some 3M urethane sealer next summer.


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## jrom

missileman said:


> I was looking at the gaps on mine again,not as bad some I've seen.but after taking a good look I think maybe it might be wise to seal of the gaps,the Electric Chute Motors/actuator assembly are on the other side of the gaps under the cover.you can't see the gaps from the outside unless you remove the cover.With all the snow/slush trashing around in the Auger Housing I'm pretty certain salt and water is going to get where the motors are and cause the connectors and motors to corrode,resulting in failure.
> Just my observations,what do you guys think.


I'm going back and forth on it, but I'm favoring sealing. 3M Urethane Seam Sealer specs state: 
- Cold Temperature Resistance @ -20°F (Remains Flexible) 
- Service Temperature -25 to 180°F

My concern is we get up to two weeks at a time at -20° to -30°F (-28.8°C to -34.4°C, right?) just about every winter. Using the blower at those sustained temps could break that seal.


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## leonz

I myself am not aware of it but if it can be used with metal 
I would try it if you intend to keep your snow blower.
If it works well you should avoid having to replace the chute
motor due to its shorting out from salt corrosion.


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## jrom

I definitely want to use a lower temp rated product. For me, the color doesn't matter so much, but red would be preferred. I almost don't want to say this because of the critics of Honda USA, but after 2 full winters with my HSS, the lining of the impeller area of the auger housing is shiny silver...paint totally worn off, and I only use the 1332 between 1/3 and 1/2 of the time (31 hours so far), the rest I use my HS828.

In the past, I haven't been too concerned as my 828 has gone so many years and it hasn't worn through the bucket...and probably won't even come close. I do have a few nasty big rock dents though...almost as bad as the Alien movies where you see the doors being hit by them bad azz alien creatures :surprise:




missileman said:


> ...I found a product called, Nuflex 302 High Temperature Sealant that's good between -65 degrees -316 degrees Celsius (-85 degrees -68 degrees F,also comes in Red.Can you tell me if this would be any good to close up those gaps if need be.I see where members have suggested the 3M Urethane but it's not available in red.


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## Coby7

lol you mean -600°F not -680°F, I'm afraid you'll have to correct it again.:nerd:


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## jrom

Coby7 said:


> lol you mean -600°F not -680°F, I'm afraid you'll have to correct it again.:nerd:


-600° is my new baseline ...:smile_big: I betcha the Yammy chute liners could take it.:angel: Go Blue! (I am from Michigan :smile_big


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## jrom

missileman, thanks for looking into and posting a higher temperature range sealant.

I'm willing to try a no-brand or not so well known brand sealant (I have before on my house), but I do favor 3M products as they have been proven.

It's really no big deal if a sealant breaks at low temps as I will just clear it out and re-apply with a better one, or I may just have my bucket gaps welded (after I prep 'em), or better yet, it may give me the opportunity to justify getting into a lower-end welding rig and give it a try. 

My son lives in Troy, Ohio, home to Hobart welders and their welding school. At 60, I don't think I'm too old to learn some new skills.

I am interested in keeping this great snowblower in as good working order as I can afford.


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## Coby7

missileman said:


> Coby,I suppose you have been a perfectionist all your life,and never made a mistake,lol.


I make mistakes all the time, only way to learn. Only people that don't make mistakes are those who do nothing which might be a mistake in it's own. I wasn't criticizing, I was just making fun since you mentioned correcting your previous mistake. By the way since I don't know if you are Canadian or American I spelled criticizing the Canadian way. Americans spell it criticising. 

Perfectionism isn't all what it's dreamt up to be, it does have it's drawback especially if you're a supervisor.


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## Coby7

Never take me seriously unless I'm serious. Red silicon caulking good to -600°F, any blue stuff for my smurf snowblower.


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## nafterclifen

Did Robert from Honda ever comment on this supposed issue?

I read through some of the thread and I am curious to know if there is a variance in construction and if it is within tolerance?


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## Natty Bumpo

nafterclifen said:


> Did Robert from Honda ever comment on this supposed issue?
> 
> I read through some of the thread and I am curious to know if there is a variance in construction and if it is within tolerance?



YES, I'd be interested in Robert's response to this issue as well. I have a HS 828 and a HS 928 and will have to look at them closely later this morning. 


Hope I won't see any gaps.:surprise:


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## [email protected]

nafterclifen said:


> Did Robert from Honda ever comment on this supposed issue?
> 
> I read through some of the thread and I am curious to know if there is a variance in construction and if it is within tolerance?


I'm trying to get a few minutes with our model/service engineer to discuss; hang on a bit.


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## Natty Bumpo

Natty Bumpo said:


> YES, I'd be interested in Robert's response to this issue as well. I have a HS 828 and a HS 928 and will have to look at them closely later this morning.
> 
> 
> Hope I won't see any gaps.:surprise:



Update: So I looked for those "gaps" on my two Honda's this morning. IIRC, the HS 828 was circa ~ 2002 and the HS 928 was mfg circa ~2012.


Happy to report, "No Gaps" as shown by the OP. :smile:


NB


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## sscotsman

Natty Bumpo said:


> Update: So I looked for those "gaps" on my two Honda's this morning. IIRC, the HS 828 was circa ~ 2002 and the HS 928 was mfg circa ~2012.
> 
> 
> Happy to report, "No Gaps" as shown by the OP. :smile:
> 
> 
> NB


I suspect it will probably be this years models only. (2018 model year)
It wasnt seen in previous years, and I strongly suspect it wont be seen after this year..almost certaintly one model year only..

Scot


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## jrom

It actually started with the US built HSS in 2015. Honda does not use model years like auto manufacturers. I go back and forth calling mine a 2015 or 2016 model.



missileman said:


> My new Honda HSS928ATCD,is a 2017 model and it has gaps.





sscotsman said:


> I suspect it will probably be this years models only. (2018 model year)
> It wasnt seen in previous years, and I strongly suspect it wont be seen after this year..almost certaintly one model year only...Scot


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## nafterclifen

[email protected] said:


> I'm trying to get a few minutes with our model/service engineer to discuss; hang on a bit.


Hope all is well, Robert. What were you able to find out?


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## sscotsman

missileman said:


> My new Honda HSS928ATCD,is a 2017 model and it has gaps.


If your snowblower was made in 2017, you have a 2018 model, not a 2017. 

Scot


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## jrom

missileman said:


> ...My bill of sales with the Model and serial indicates it's a 2017, I just purchased it a month ago, maybe I got a left over 2017. Is there anywhere I could find out the year and what month/day it was built.


Most all of us users will date our machines like the auto industry. It does depend on when in the year you buy. Yours would be considered a 2018 model and my HSS would be considered a 2016 model.

Most Honda dealers will list new product by model year, but you won't get Honda to say it. This is according to Robert ([email protected]). This has come up a number of times here.

With your serial number, Robert will be able to tell you when your machine was purchased. Honda does not keep records (or will not reveal) by date of manufacture.


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## sscotsman

Dealers are not consistent in how they themselves label them..
In December 2017, most dealers will say "2018 models are in the store now" 
However some will have the exact same machines and say "2017 models are in the store now"
the silence from the manufacturers doesnt help! 
but yes, if it was made in Spring/Summer 2017 and went to the dealer to be sold in the Autumn of 2017, its a 2018 model..there is about 95% concensus on this now..

But the manufacturers seldom commit themselves to a specific model year, on purpose:

https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page11.html#question6

Scot


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## Coby7

Yeah because leftovers can be labeled as new.


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## Marlow

Coby7 said:


> Start your own Husqvarna or Sears bad quality thread, should be plenty to talk about there.


As there would be for yammy as well! :smile_big:


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## Prime

Marlow said:


> As there would be for yammy as well! :smile_big:


Any brand for that matter. Good and bad with all. Also alot has to do with the operator and how the machine is run. Poor operation habits, maintenance etc. can make all the difference.


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## nafterclifen

[email protected] said:


> I'm trying to get a few minutes with our model/service engineer to discuss; hang on a bit.


Hi Robert - I've seen that you've been replying to other posts but haven't provided an update on this one. What is the status?


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## [email protected]

nafterclifen said:


> Hi Robert - I've seen that you've been replying to other posts but haven't provided an update on this one. What is the status?


In progress...need to get a few minutes with our QIC team.


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## tdipaul

.
.

This has been an awfully long meeting  

.
.


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## nafterclifen

tdipaul said:


> .
> .
> 
> This has been an awfully long meeting
> 
> .
> .


Agreed.


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