# First oil change on my Deluxe 28



## podevil

First of all I read the manual on the 254 cc ax motor..Got all the wrenches together and went out to the shed to change the oil. They changed the oil drain to a pipe with a cap on it so the wrenches that the manual said to use were useless. Got everything together and went back out and ran the engine for about 5 minutes and went to open the drain pipe and it was stuck tight..Got out the portable propane torch and heated a little and it came right off. There was enough locktite on it to use on a half dozen bolts..Just a little overkill! Let the oil drain for about 15 minutes and it had quite a bit of metal in it, but that is to be expected for a new engine. I think I need to improve the oil draining system to make it a bit easier. Measured out 20 ounces of synthetic oil and poured it in the machine. Went to check the oil and the dipstick is completely unreadable. Even in the sun! And these old eyes are not that bad, I was wondering if anyone has a solution to this problem..Maybe buy painting the end of the dipstick with another color or something like that so it is easier to read. I took a paper towel and slid it down the dipstick until it hit the edge of the oil and it was just above the hole in the dipstick st the full mark..
If anyone has some better ideas about the oil drain and the dipstick, I sure would appreciate your input.
One last question! Has anyone ever used the Lucas oil additive in their small engines?..I use it in my cars and truck and have had a lot of success with it


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## UNDERTAKER

DRAINZIT makes an app for that problem.


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## Bror Jace

I wipe the dipstick off _really good_ then reinsert, thread in and remove again. I hold it in a way where I can see the oil glisten. The line between the part that glistens and that which does not is your fill line.

If you put in 20 ounces in most one-lungers, the engine will be fine. After a few hours of use, the oil will darken and be easier to read. Then you can fine-tune the level to be at the top of the safe zone.

I would not use Lucas Oil Stabilizer if it was free ... unless you are dealing with a basket-case that burns as much oil as gas. It is a petroleum-based thickener ("bright stock") that merely thickens the oil. Running oil too thick may compromise it's ability to splash properly through the motor and will even cost you a little horsepower because of parasitic drag.


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## Shryp

There was a thread on dipsticks last year and I think some people etched theirs or drilled a few small holes in it.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...3026-ariens-dipstick-virtually-illegible.html


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## jsolo

Is this the engine with the vertical dipstick or the one on an angle? Someone correct if wrong, but on the latter, you fill up to the edge of the dipstick hole (similar to filling up a diff on a car or MT - although on these you just fill up til it starts to drip out).


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## Ryan

you won't see any benefit from using any sort of oil additives in these small engines. Just use a good quality oil that meets or exceeds that oil specs called for in the owners manual and you'll be juuuuuuust fine.


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## Bror Jace

Let's just say someone wanted to be extra EXTRA anal, and choose an oil additive to give their engine additional protection. I would consider one of the following proven additives:

Schaeffer Oil | Moly E.P. Oil Treatment

or 

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil - Engine Oil Break-In Additive

Both these products will fortify your oil's existing additive package and are NOT merely thickeners like Lucas Stabilizer.

But I'm sure that no one here would be extra anal like that.


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## enigma-2

Being a little more on in years, I decided last year that the method used by Ariens to change oil was a bit too inconvenient for me, so I changed it over to having a oil drain valve with a clear ploy tube attached. Found a rubber plug that fits the hose and use it to keep the dirt out.

When I drain the oil I just unravel the poly tube from the side of the machine, put the end into an empty quart oil bottle, turn the valve to open and wait for it to drain. Draining takes a couple of minutes, setting it up takes only seconds.

In refilling, I just pour in the oil until it just starts to overflow the lower oil fill opening.

I did an in-depth review of the parts I used in this message:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-oil-drain-ariens-platinum-lct-ax-engine.html

The valve itself is designed for automotive use (exposed under a car) and has no danger in accidentally opening. (Even it it did, the poly tube is coiled with the opening higher than the drain opening.)


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## Dave C

enigma-2 said:


> Being a little more on in years, I decided last year that the method used by Ariens to change oil was a bit too inconvenient for me, so I changed it over to having a oil drain valve with a clear ploy tube attached. Found a rubber plug that fits the hose and use it to keep the dirt out.
> 
> When I drain the oil I just unravel the poly tube from the side of the machine, put the end into an empty quart oil bottle, turn the valve to open and wait for it to drain. Draining takes a couple of minutes, setting it up takes only seconds.
> 
> In refilling, I just pour in the oil until it just starts to overflow the lower oil fill opening.
> 
> I did an in-depth review of the parts I used in this message:
> http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...-oil-drain-ariens-platinum-lct-ax-engine.html
> 
> The valve itself is designed for automotive use (exposed under a car) and has no danger in accidentally opening. (Even it it did, the poly tube is coiled with the opening higher than the drain opening.)


What thread size did you end up using, and do you know if all the AX engines are the same? Mine is an AX291 with a hex oil tube plugged with a bolt. I'd like to pursue doing that mod, but the valves are a bit pricey to risk buying the wrong one.

Thanks.


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## Town

The oil fill dipstick on my machine does not have any markings for oil fill level. My dealer said to fill to the top hole (of two holes). The engine manual says there is a mark on the dipstick, but not on mine. The manual does not refer to any holes as an indicator of engine oil level.

Attached are some pictures of my dipstick. The second and third pictures show each side of the dipstick which have no markings except the holes. I had to replace the sealing O ring in the cap with a neoprene one because I couldn't open the cap when temperature was -20C (-4F) although it could be opened easily in the heated service area of my dealer. 

The 414 cc engine holds 38 ounces (1.123 liters) so when I change the oil I will see where the oil level is.


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## Shryp

The bottom hole should be your min/add mark and the top hole should be your max mark. My Honda vehicle dipstick is the same way.


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## Town

Shryp said:


> The bottom hole should be your min/add mark and the top hole should be your max mark. My Honda vehicle dipstick is the same way.


Yes thanks, that is what my dealer told me. Too bad the owner manual doesn't help with that explanation.


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## enigma-2

Dave C said:


> What thread size did you end up using, and do you know if all the AX engines are the same? Mine is an AX291 with a hex oil tube plugged with a bolt. I'd like to pursue doing that mod, but the valves are a bit pricey to risk buying the wrong one. Thanks.


Don't blame you, I had the same concerns. Contacted Ariens engineering and they had to contact engineer in China to be certain. 
My engine is the AX291. 

Valve is 12 mm x 1.5 mm thread. 

Part number is EZ-109 for the valve ($23.95) and H-001 ($4) for the adapter.
Valve: EZ Oil Drain Valve / Part Number 12mm-1.5
Adapter: H-001 : Straight Hose End 3/8" for EZ Oil Drain Valve

Also bought 18" of clear vinyl tubing and my local hardware. They had end plugs the close off tube as well.

Simple to change out. Tip the machine up into the service position, remove the oil drain tube, install the valve, adapter and tubing. Takes two minutes. 
Makes changing oil sooooooo much easier. 

Believe that the larger AX engines use the 14 mm valve, but don't quote me on that.


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## Town

First oil change on my machine yesterday, dipstick showed level just below top hole. Drained oil into measuring container stopped at 1 liter and refilled with 1 liter (spec is 1.12 liters/38 ozs). The place for a wrench to keep the drain tube from turning is between the chassis and flywheel housing and inaccessible for any wrench. I used locking pliers on tube (as suggested by my dealer) and a 16mm socket on cap nut. There was no seal or sealant for the cap nut and I replaced it that way. No leaks at all. Ran machine for half an hour to clean up from plow and still no leaks. This morning the oil level is just at bottom of top hole.


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## jsolo

@enigma, do these components come with orings or use some other sealing method?


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## Bror Jace

For sealing anything with exposed threads, use Teflon tape. It's cheap and you can get it anywhere. Wrap at least once, not much more than twice, starting from the opening's edge.

Works perfect.


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