# Snapper 1030.. help??



## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

Hi, I think I finally found the right forum! I have a 1999 snapper 1030, which I can NOT get to even try to start. I have rebuilt the carburetor, changed spark plugs, belts, head gaskets, fuel lines, and shear pins. I tried directly putting starting fluid into it. It doesn't want to turn over. It seems like I have decent compression, (though, I didn?t put a gauge on it) I soap bubbled the head and didn't see anything, so I thought I should at least get a pop. If anyone has any suggestions It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,..... frustrated in Wisconsin


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## GAR (Nov 7, 2014)

I hate to ask this, but are you getting spark from the plug. I only ask this because you did not say you checked


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

I'm sorry I didn't add that, kind of important. Yes, it does have good spark. The one thing I didn't mention is that I did have to Re tap the spark plug threads and put in a insert. Could the spark just not be getting down far enough?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

:welcome: to the forum jchuck

What he said. And please give us the numbers off the engine.


Good to see another 1030 owner :wavetowel2:

How about a photo of the machine and of the spark plug repair ??
When you checked for spark was it at the end of the spark plug itself ??


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## GAR (Nov 7, 2014)

You may be losing compression due to the re-tap of spark plug....I would do the old dish soap test around that wile trying to start it.


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

Thanks for the welcome! And the rapid response! Yes I did get spark from the end of the plug. The numbers are: Tecumseh engine model :HMSK100-159426W
SERIAL: XTPXS3582BF.
I am having trouble on how to send my pictures any tips?


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

Hi Gar, I thought the same about the leaky tap but I did try the soapy water and it checked out good. I will try it again though, thanks.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Jchuck said:


> I'm sorry I didn't add that, kind of important. Yes, it does have good spark. The one thing I didn't mention is that I did have to Re tap the spark plug threads and put in a insert. Could the spark just not be getting down far enough?


Did it run before you retapped the plug? 

How long is the insert, and does the plug go deep enough to mate with the original head surface. 

The insert should not be sticking up out of the plug hole, and it should not be projecting below the hole in the combustion chamber. I hate to ask, but can you confirm that the insert is metal and that there was no insulating material placed on the threads when you installed the insert? In other words, if you measure resistance from the threaded plug insert to another point on the head, you get 0 ohms. 

Have you checked to see if maybe the flywheel key is sheared off which would mess up the spark timing.

While you had the head off, did you check the valves for seating and clearance?


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

skutflut said:


> Jchuck said:
> 
> 
> > I'm sorry I didn't add that, kind of important. Yes, it does have good spark. The one thing I didn't mention is that I did have to Re tap the spark plug threads and put in a insert. Could the spark just not be getting down far enough?
> ...



Thanks Skutflut, I appreciate your feedback, this all started when I could not pull the rope with out it ripping my arm off, I then checked the compression by taking out the spark plug and the rope pulled without any restriction. I then went to replace the shear pin. I proceeded to rebuild the carburetor, fuel lines, and took the head off to clean it and replace the head gasket, along with all of the other main gaskets. I thought I should be good, but that's when I accidentally cross threaded the spark plug threads and retapped them with a metal insert, it does sit below the top of the head and doesn't thread past the inside threads. I didnt ohm it out though, and didn't measure the clearances on the valves. Do you think I should double check to see if the timing is correct?


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## AriensProMike (Dec 2, 2014)

Sounds like the flywheel key to me.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Jchuck said:


> Thanks Skutflut, I appreciate your feedback, this all started when I could not pull the rope with out it ripping my arm off, I then checked the compression by taking out the spark plug and the rope pulled without any restriction. I then went to replace the shear pin. I proceeded to rebuild the carburetor, fuel lines, and took the head off to clean it and replace the head gasket, along with all of the other main gaskets. I thought I should be good, but that's when I accidentally cross threaded the spark plug threads and retapped them with a metal insert, it does sit below the top of the head and doesn't thread past the inside threads. I didn't ohm it out though, and didn't measure the clearances on the valves. Do you think I should double check to see if the timing is correct?


I would just check with the ohmmeter, make sure you have a good connection from the plug threads to ground. That's an easy test, and one thing off the list. Probably not a problem, but you know the old story, the problem is always in the last place you look. You get a spark with the plug out and grounded, but maybe not when its screwed in the head if the threads are not grounded. If you have an inline spark tester, that would also do the trick, because if the plug threads were not grounded properly, you would see a weak or no spark on the tester.

The hard to pull problem could be bad valve clearance (gap too large, not enough lift). If the valves are not opening far enough (worn stems) then the compression release doesn't allow compression to escape when you are trying to start the engine, and it can be a bear to turn over. 

If the machine kicks back while you are pulling it over, that's a sign of the timing maybe being off, since the spark happens a bit before it's supposed to and knocks the piston down the cylinder, turning the crank in the wrong direction. 

If you do find good continuity and the plug fires while screwed into the head, and you are getting fuel, and not flooding it with continuous pulling, 
and the valves are seating properly, and the valve lash is in spec, then I would say take a look at the key in the flywheel. Do you ever remember hitting something that stopped the blower dead in its tracks and stalled the engine? If so, then a sheared key is a definite possibility.

If you pull the flywheel to check on the key, also check to make sure the magneto coil is not loose as that could cause some grief as well. Don't remember if you gave the age of the machine and engine, but if it's got points, they might be due for a change, or at least cleaning and gapping. or upgrade of the ignition system to all electronic, and no more points and condenser to worry about. Also remember to tighten the flywheel properly so it doesn't slide on the shaft and damage a new key, if thats the problem. 

Just be glad it's not a V8.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Just another quick question... you mentioned changing shear pins. Are you referring to the shear pins in the augers or someplace else? That goes back to my previous post about hitting something and stalling the engine.


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

Great feedback! I will go through your suggestions and see what happens! I am very glad that I found this forum. Thank god this isn't a V8, my head is starting to spin already. And my back is begging me to fix this thing!


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> to the forum jchuck
> 
> What he said. And please give us the numbers off the engine.
> 
> ...


Here are some pictures.


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

skutflut said:


> Just another quick question... you mentioned changing shear pins. Are you referring to the shear pins in the augers or someplace else? That goes back to my previous post about hitting something and stalling the engine.


No I meant to say, replaced the key, which makes me think something might have gone wrong with the timing. Maybe?


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Jchuck said:


> No I meant to say, replaced the key, which makes me think something might have gone wrong with the timing. Maybe?


So you had the flywheel off already? Was the old key damaged.? Did you get the correct size replacement? There shouldn't be any slop when the flywheel is on the crank and the key is in. Bolt needs to be torqued to about 200 ft/lb, check that spec. As mentioned, check coil, gap between coil and flywheel points if there, all that stuff.


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

skutflut said:


> Jchuck said:
> 
> 
> > No I meant to say, replaced the key, which makes me think something might have gone wrong with the timing. Maybe?
> ...



Yes, and I did change the key, it actually didn't look bad to me, edges were a little rounded. To be honest I'm not positive if I had it torqued to the correct amount. I did clean up and gap the magnets, and this model doest seem to have the points. I think I am better off taking it off again, and double-check everything to put my mind at ease, because like I said I did that quite awhile ago. And I know more now than I did then. Thanks again.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

skutflut said:


> Bolt needs to be torqued to about 200 ft/lb, check that spec.


it's more like 40 ft/lbs or 58 ft/lbs (ext ignition).

Brotha-J's back is already hurting :wavetowel2:


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

classiccat said:


> skutflut said:
> 
> 
> > Bolt needs to be torqued to about 200 ft/lb, check that spec.
> ...


Thanks, I will check that.

Did I say back?....I meant to say pride!


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

classiccat said:


> it's more like 40 ft/lbs or 58 ft/lbs (ext ignition).
> 
> Brotha-J's back is already hurting :wavetowel2:



I stand corrected on the torque spec for the flywheel. Charts and graphs should never be read late at night in the dark :blush:


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

Hi is there anyone out there that might know the size of socket I would need for the flywheel nut on my snapper snowblower, tecumseh engine hmsk100? I'm at the hardware store and can't remember. Thanks


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm finding 1 13/16ths just a hair over 30mm


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## Jchuck (Feb 3, 2016)

Hi. I just wanted to let everyone that helped me with my snapper 1030, that all the suggestions worked and finally found that it was the flywheel key. I replaced it originally, last year so, I didn't think it could of been that. But after I installed it, one pull and it came back to life (a glorious sound!). But I wanted to thank everyone that helped me troubleshoot it, it is greatly appreciated. Keep up the great work!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

And life is good again :wavetowel2:


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Thing about flywheels and keys, is you can put in a new one, and break it in 1 millisecond. Also important to torque that flywheel so it doesn't move once its on the shaft, and break the new key. 

I saw one video where the guy used valve grinding compound on the engine shaft and took the shine off the crank where the flywheel fits to reduce the possibility of slipping. Seems like a good idea.


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