# LED lights on Pro 28



## Turbo3Ariens (Jul 30, 2016)

I've been wanting to upgrade the lighting on my 2012 Ariens Pro 28 for some time now. I'm finally getting to it. I've been using this sticky "Upgrading your snowblower to LED lights" as a guide.

I'm no electronics expert so I could use some clarification on a few things. 
First i'd like to use the Lemonbest lights shown on page 73. 

Secondly, will I still need the 2200mfd 50v capacitors to clean up the "dirty" DC output?

What else do I need aside from a fuse holder? It appeared as though a 1 amp would be sufficient for 20w total?

Thanks, 
Kelly

FWIW I didn't post any links because of the post count deal.


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

I did not see Lemonbest post on page 73, so not sure what the set up is you wanna duplicate. 

Yes you will need a capacitor. Not required, but I set mine up with (2) capacitors in parallel, in case one failed. I then put 1 amp fuses in line as well.

I do have a couple extra sets of brackets, both tall and short if your interested. I have sold a few sets to members here and they are happy with them.


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

Here is a link to my post on the details of both types of brackets, as well as a link to the you tube video of my set up. 

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...4753-custom-ariens-design-light-brackets.html


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## Turbo3Ariens (Jul 30, 2016)

My apologies, the Lemonbest lights were listed on page 62, post #616. 

I was going to just drill holes in the side of the dash but after looking at your brackets I'm starting to reconsider it.


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

it appears to me those lights would work.

Let us know how ya do.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Turbo3Ariens said:


> I've been wanting to upgrade the lighting on my 2013 Ariens Pro 28 for some time now. I'm finally getting to it. I've been using this sticky "Upgrading your snowblower to LED lights" as a guide.
> 
> 
> What else do I need aside from a fuse holder? It appeared as though a 1 amp would be sufficient for 20w total?
> ...


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## Turbo3Ariens (Jul 30, 2016)

It's certainly possible. I don't claim to be an electronics expert. I just based it off of what others with similar setups said they were using in the thread I referenced above. 

Still waiting on parts to arrive for the time being.


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## Turbo3Ariens (Jul 30, 2016)

On the wiring diagram I see A.C. Lighting (yellow) and D.C. Charge (red). I assume I should tap into the yellow lead?


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

"IF" my memory serves me correct, and that is going on 2 seasons ago when I did mine, yes, yellow is your wire.


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## Dpach (Sep 15, 2014)

I believe it is yellow. I routed the factory light lead wire through a single pole double throw switch and ran one side back to the factory light and the other through a bridge rectifier and a couples 2200 capacitors (included a couple 2amp fuse holders) to the new LEDS so I could have the factory light or the LEDs running depending on the situation .


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## Turbo3Ariens (Jul 30, 2016)

Dpach, I'm planning something similar to your setup. I am going to replace the factory handgrip switch with a double pole switch for the handgrips and original light. Then I will have a second switch for the new LED's. I thought about leaving them on all the time like the factory light but I don't need them running in the daylight.


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## Dpach (Sep 15, 2014)

Turbo3, I put a double throw switch on my heated grips too, but the second use is for a heated snowmobile helmet visor so when the wind is blowing snow back in my face (usually blow into the stormy west winds due to our bay layout), I can throw on my helmet and go at it.


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## Bassguitarist1985 (Aug 22, 2016)

Turbo3Ariens said:


> Dpach, I'm planning something similar to your setup. I am going to replace the factory handgrip switch with a double pole switch for the handgrips and original light. Then I will have a second switch for the new LED's. I thought about leaving them on all the time like the factory light but I don't need them running in the daylight.


I thought of this exact setup as well, and it certainly sidesteps having to upgrade the stator to a 10 amp. The double pole switch is a bit costly for the function, but worth it!


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