# HS928WA Runs for 3 minutes and dies



## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

I have a HS928WA serial number SZAS-1123806, Engine # GCAB-1820997. Starts on first pull most of the time, when throttle back on choke runs perfect. After exactly 3 minutes it shuts down. It will not start up after it stalls. Must wait 5-10 minutes, then it will start on first pull. Runs again for 3 minutes and stalls. I replaced the Carburetor, Ignition Coil, Fuel line, Cleaned and filled fuel tank with new gas. Still shuts down after 3 minutes. I think it may be a defective Oil Alert Sensor, but Can’t fine the sensor on the motor GX270,anyone know where it is located? Is it internal? Can't fine location in any Shop Manuals. Anyone have any ideas?


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

First thing I would try is loosening the fuel cap and then starting it. If it continues to run ok, then you have a vented fuel cap that is not venting properly. When that happens, a vacuum is created in the tank so fuel stops flowing and the engine dies. After a period of time, vacuum is relieved and will start and run again until vacuum is created again. Solution: new fuel cap or solve venting issue.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Honda sb do not have oil alert sensors.


otherwise what CO snow says.

is gas valve on?


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

CO Snow said:


> First thing I would try is loosening the fuel cap and then starting it. If it continues to run ok, then you have a vented fuel cap that is not venting properly. When that happens, a vacuum is created in the tank so fuel stops flowing and the engine dies. After a period of time, vacuum is relieved and will start and run again until vacuum is created again. Solution: new fuel cap or solve venting issue.


That was the first thing I did was remove the gas cap, did the same thing, ran for 3 minutes and shut down.


orangputeh said:


> Honda sb do not have oil alert sensors.
> 
> 
> otherwise what CO snow says.
> ...


The fuel valve is on, also did a flow test to see how much fuel was flowing thru the fuel lines and carburetor. The flow was more than needed.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> Honda sb do not have oil alert sensors.
> 
> 
> otherwise what CO snow says.
> ...


I thought that all Honda small engines had low oil alert sensors. Honda GX240 GX270 GX340 GX390 Replacement Oil Alert Sensor


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Honda Pete said:


> I thought that all Honda small engines had low oil alert sensors. Honda GX240 GX270 GX340 GX390 Replacement Oil Alert Sensor
> View attachment 183848


Nope, only the ones that are fairly stationary and level when in operation like water pumps and generators, or are big like tractors.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Honda Pete said:


> I thought that all Honda small engines had low oil alert sensors. Honda GX240 GX270 GX340 GX390 Replacement Oil Alert Sensor
> View attachment 183848


not snowblowers


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Honda Pete said:


> That was the first thing I did was remove the gas cap, did the same thing, ran for 3 minutes and shut down.
> 
> The fuel valve is on, also did a flow test to see how much fuel was flowing thru the fuel lines and carburetor. The flow was more than needed.


do you have an inline spark tester? when it shuts off , immediately check for spark. if no spark could be the coil.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Agreed check spark, and also make sure you're getting good fuel flow from the tank... three minutes is just about enough time to empty the bowl and fuel line, refills slowly after shut-down.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> do you have an inline spark tester? when it shuts off , immediately check for spark. if no spark could be the coil.


Has no spark after 3 minutes it shuts down. I get spark after 5-10 minutes. I replace with new the coil, carb, fuel lines, gas cap, spark plug, and adjusted the valves. Has good compression. did a leak down test and all ok


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Agreed check spark, and also make sure you're getting good fuel flow from the tank... three minutes is just about enough time to empty the bowl and fuel line, refills slowly after shut-down.


Has no spark after 3 minutes it shuts down. I get spark after 5-10 minutes. I replace with new the coil, carb, fuel lines, gas cap, spark plug, and adjusted the valves. Has good compression. did a leak down test and all ok


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Aye... missed the part that you changed the coil too. Hmm.

As long as the oil is verified full and gtg can you temporarily 'fool' the oil switch as a test?


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Aye... missed the part that you changed the coil too. Hmm.
> 
> As long as the oil is verified full and gtg can you temporarily 'fool' the oil switch as a test?


They are telling me that there is no Low Oil Alert Sensor on Snow blower Engines (GX270) I can't fine one on the outside of the engine. I thought maybe it had an internal oil sensor. Note: The oil level is at the correct level and was changed prior to starting the unit this season. I replaced new Carburetor, new Ignition Coil, new Fuel lines, Cleaned fuel tank and fresh gas, and ran with the gas cap off. Also did a valve adjustment, which were in specifications to start with. Starts up on first pull, most of the time. Runs for 3 minutes almost to the second, and than stalls out. Sometimes there is a little back fire just before it stops running, but not every time.


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## aldfam4 (Dec 25, 2016)

Perplexing, long shot Honda Pete - check connections at your Engine Switch.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

Ok..Will do sounds like it could be the problem. I hope you are right. I did look at it yesterday, I pulled on the wires to see if they were loose they were tight. but I'll take them apart today and make sure they are making good contact. thanks


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

Right when it dies shut fuel off. Remove carb bowl drain 
Any fuel come out of bowl?




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## jherbicide (Oct 14, 2021)

groomerz said:


> Right when it dies shut fuel off. Remove carb bowl drain
> Any fuel come out of bowl?
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, I wonder if something wonky is going on, like a piece of gunk is temporarily blocking the line, and only does it when running.

I’m not privy to the wiring on that thing, but I’d also check all ignition related wiring for a bad connection or a pinched/rubbed thru wire. Ive seen strange things with bad connections and pinched/rubbed wires.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

groomerz said:


> Right when it dies shut fuel off. Remove carb bowl drain
> Any fuel come out of bowl?
> 
> 
> ...


Hello, Did all that, I even measure the fuel that drain into a CC measuring cup. Had at least 3 oz and the fuel flow was fast with great volume. Replace fuel line hose, cleaned gas tank and fuel filter. Still stalls after 3 minutes. I replaced new Carburetor, new Ignition Coil, new Fuel lines, Cleaned fuel tank and fresh gas, and ran with the gas cap off. Also did a valve adjustment, which were in specifications to start with. Starts up on first pull, most of the time. Runs for 3 minutes almost to the second, and than stalls out. Sometimes there is a little back fire just before it stops running, but not every time.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

have you put an ohm meter on the coil, before starting, and after it dies ? new doesnt always mean its good.


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

The stator is something to look into as well.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

Try following your key switch wiring harness from handlebars to tractor/engine. Locate the ground wire loop screwed to the machine. When you have your 3 minute failure, remove that ground wire and don't let it touch metal. Try restarting. If it does you have a bad key switrch.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

sledman8002002 said:


> The stator is something to look into as well.


I did a resistance value between the old coil and new, the reading were within 1-3 ohms between the old and new, How do you check a stator? Are you referring to the flywheel with the magnetic trigger for the coil ?


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

If you are losing spark in three minutes and it is not coming back for another 5-10 minutes it would seem to me that this is an electrical issue and not a fuel related problem. On the wiring diagram there is what looks like a connector between the coil and the ignition switch. It would be worth checking this connector out to make sure there isn't a loose connection there that is heating up as the engine runs?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

How did you adjust new coil? also you can eliminate the switch by disconnecting ground. if it's the switch for whatever reason it will keep running until you touch ground wire to metal or choke it out. 

You said you have plenty of fuel ( In bowl?)immediately when it shuts down? You also said it needs 5-10 minutes to sit before it restarts? I thought the same thing Yanmar thought. That the fuel flow wasn't keeping up with demand.

If the bowl is full right at shut down that eliminates that problem. The only other thing I can think of is the coil. When it gets hot the spark stops. Then after cooling it will spark again and start.

I have seen this on other Honda's but you said you replaced coil. I would check air gap with business card and clean all connections.

also try running with ground from switch disconnected. long shot but let's try to eliminate everything we can.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

sledman8002002 said:


> The stator is something to look into as well.


&&


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> How did you adjust new coil? also you can eliminate the switch by disconnecting ground. if it's the switch for whatever reason it will keep running until you touch ground wire to metal or choke it out.
> 
> You said you have plenty of fuel ( In bowl?)immediately when it shuts down? You also said it needs 5-10 minutes to sit before it restarts? I thought the same thing Yanmar thought. That the fuel flow wasn't keeping up with demand.
> 
> ...


Hello, I set the gap on the new coil to .015, the same clearance gap as on the old coil on the trigger magnet. Ran the snow blower again and when she stalled 3 minutes later I shut the main fuel valve and drained the carburetor, had plenty of fuel in the bowl. Open the fuel valve and had fast and constant flow of fuel. I did disconnect the ground wire on the third startup, same thing happened; it stalls after 3 minutes running. I won't give up !! lol lol


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

I've had a honda spark plug cap fail such that it sent spark into the head rather than the plug when under load. Perhaps yours is intermittently failing open circuit?


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

Disconnect coil kill wire at engine 

Do you have spark tester 










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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> how do you check this?


Darned if I know. I'm no good when electrical becomes this involved, I have a buddy that knows the 'how-to' on reading a stator, but even that's not reliable. Best way I know of is to change it out if there is no short is found anywhere within the stator itself. I've seen stators with black/burnt areas that somehow toasted.
I've found it to be a common issue with BRP 2 stroke triple and twins, they sell alot up my way. Exact same issue, runs for a very short time and quits.


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

sledman8002002 said:


> The stator is something to look into as well.


I believe the stator is for the light and has nothing to do with spark on this honda


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

Honda Pete said:


> Are you referring to the flywheel with the magnetic trigger for the coil ?


The stator is in behind the flywheel/mag. Here is a pic of a typical stator (not yours)


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

groomerz said:


> I believe the stator is for the light and has nothing to do with spark on this honda
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, you might be right. I just looked at a parts page and I didnt see what I call a typical stator?


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

sledman8002002 said:


> Darned if I know. I'm no good when electrical becomes this involved, I have a buddy that knows the 'how-to' on reading a stator, but even that's not reliable. Best way I know of is to change it out if there is no short is found anywhere within the stator itself. I've seen stators with black/burnt areas that somehow toasted.
> I've found it to be a common issue with BRP 2 stroke triple and twins, they sell alot up my way. Exact same issue, runs for a very short time and quits.


Thanks, But they do not have stators. They have a flywheel ($140.00) with a trigger magnet to excite ignition coil ($42.34) to get a shark. The HS928 that I have has (two) light coils instead of a stator which use the flywheel for external 12 volt power. These supply 12v/50w power for optional spot lamp for nighttime snow blowing. And yes Motorcycles are the most common use of Stators. And yes they fail a lot.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

How did you check the spark? I do it by laying the spark plug on the cylinderhead, but doing this doesn't check the plug. This really sounds like an electrical issue and for a fault that is heat sensitive. 

The exactly three minutes every time is perplexing, but you eliminated fuel issues w/ the new carb, testing the flow, and draining the bowl. It has to be electrical - in an area that heats up.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Honda Pete said:


> Hello, I set the gap on the new coil to .015, the same clearance gap as on the old coil on the trigger magnet. Ran the snow blower again and when she stalled 3 minutes later I shut the main fuel valve and drained the carburetor, had plenty of fuel in the bowl. Open the fuel valve and had fast and constant flow of fuel. I did disconnect the ground wire on the third startup, same thing happened; it stalls after 3 minutes running. I won't give up !! lol lol
> [/QUOTE


I would love to look at this is person. where u at?


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> I would love to look at this is person. where u at?


I am located on Long Island, East Meadow NY 11554


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

WrenchIt said:


> How did you check the spark? I do it by laying the spark plug on the cylinderhead, but doing this doesn't check the plug. This really sounds like an electrical issue and for a fault that is heat sensitive.
> 
> The exactly three minutes every time is perplexing, but you eliminated fuel issues w/ the new carb, testing the flow, and draining the bowl. It has to be electrical - in an area that heats up.


I replace the spark plug and tried it again, same results. I put the old plug back in. I agree that it must be heat related. The only thing I didn't replace is the flywheel. At a cost of $140.00 I am trying everything else first. The way she stops running is weird. When she starts to slow down, I try to give it some choke. It did nothing. I move the governor to make it rev more, nothing happens. The second before it stalls I sometimes I get a backfire. But not all the time. It won't start up for at least 5 minutes, no matter how hard you pull the started. Then give it a minute or two she starts on first pull, revs and idles with no problem. Runs for 3 minutes again and dies. WTH ?


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

I slept on it...still baffled. Unless there's some evasive bit of debris in the tank...

Agreed even a new coil can be bad, so ya.

Very interested to see what happens. 🤞 😎


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> I slept on it...still baffled. Unless there's some evasive bit of debris in the tank...
> 
> Agreed even a new coil can be bad, so ya.
> 
> Very interested to see what happens. 🤞 😎


I agree a new coil could be bad. But to give the same results as the old coil, what are the chances ?? Million to One !!


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

Honda Pete said:


> I replace the spark plug and tried it again, same results. I put the old plug back in. I agree that it must be heat related. The only thing I didn't replace is the flywheel. At a cost of $140.00 I am trying everything else first. The way she stops running is weird. When she starts to slow down, I try to give it some choke. It did nothing. I move the governor to make it rev more, nothing happens. The second before it stalls I sometimes I get a backfire. But not all the time. It won't start up for at least 5 minutes, no matter how hard you pull the started. Then give it a minute or two she starts on first pull, revs and idles with no problem. Runs for 3 minutes again and dies. WTH ?


It slows before it dies? Hmmm.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

I'm willing to bet the ignition coil is getting heat sunk. Obviously not the same thing but I had a similar issue on my modified 85 Silverado. Engine would cold start fine and run good until everything got really hot and then stall and would not start again for 5 to 10 minutes. Did plugs, carb work, readjusted the valves for the solid lifter cam. Had a complete MSD ignition and that's where the problem was. The MSD 6AL box was getting heat sunk and cutting out the ignition. I was able to diagnose it by letting the engine heat up and die then immediately putting an ice pack on the 6AL box and it would fire back up. Did this several times to confirm. Replaced the MSD box and ran fine after that. Obviously trying to ice the coil on the Honda is going to be quite difficult, If even possible. Like I said, not the same thing but I'm willing to bet excessive heat is causing the issue.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

I really don't think its the flywheel. Magnets, which will lose some power if heated, do not regain magnetism when they cool. Probably the coil. Giving it choke when its hot simply gives it more gas as the spark is dying and you get a backfire. IIRC, the plug wire is connected to the coil, so this gets replaced with the coil.

I wonder if you checked the coil's resistance w/ a multi meter and heated it with a hair dryer?


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

So have you determined there is no spark when it dies?

Did you disconnect kill wire at the coil? This will remove wiring and switch from ign system and isolate ign coil

Did you adj valves before problem occurred or after?


Honda’s are very reliable so your machine is perplexing 

How bout some pics of engine so we can see or a video with a look around it


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

WrenchIt said:


> I really don't think its the flywheel. Magnets, which will lose some power if heated, do not regain magnetism when they cool. Probably the coil. Giving it choke when its hot simply gives it more gas as the spark is dying and you get a backfire. IIRC, the plug wire is connected to the coil, so this gets replaced with the coil.
> 
> I wonder if you checked the coil's resistance w/ a multi meter and heated it with a hair dryer?


I agree on the backfire.
How do engines react when a coil fails? If I understand correctly, the engine slows then dies. Is this consistent with coil failure, or more like fuel starvation? If its been established there is no spark, my bad.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

JJG723 said:


> I'm willing to bet the ignition coil is getting heat sunk. Obviously not the same thing but I had a similar issue on my modified 85 Silverado. Engine would cold start fine and run good until everything got really hot and then stall and would not start again for 5 to 10 minutes. Did plugs, carb work, readjusted the valves for the solid lifter cam. Had a complete MSD ignition and that's where the problem was. The MSD 6AL box was getting heat sunk and cutting out the ignition. I was able to diagnose it by letting the engine heat up and die then immediately putting an ice pack on the 6AL box and it would fire back up. Did this several times to confirm. Replaced the MSD box and ran fine after that. Obviously trying to ice the coil on the Honda is going to be quite difficult, If even possible. Like I said, not the same thing but I'm willing to bet excessive heat is causing the issue.


After replacing the ignition coil with a NEW one and had exactly the same results, I don't think it's the coil Note; the old coil and new coil had the same OHMS readings +or-.1


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

Darby said:


> I agree on the backfire.
> How do engines react when a coil fails? If I understand correctly, the engine slows then dies. Is this consistent with coil failure, or more like fuel starvation? If its been established there is no spark, my bad.


I don't play with the choke when it is stalling, I did once to see if any changes might show up. It backfires on its own without me touching anything. It's defiantly not a fuel problem. I rebuilt the original carburetor, it was very clean inside. Had same problem so I put a brand New carburetor on. Did the same thing. ran and shut down in 3 minutes.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

groomerz said:


> So have you determined there is no spark when it dies?
> 
> Did you disconnect kill wire at the coil? This will remove wiring and switch from ign system and isolate ign coil
> 
> ...


I adjusted the valves after the problem, thinking that maybe a valve got to tight. The clearance was in specks before I started 0.15 in and 0.20 exhaust cold setting. I also ran the unit with the ground disconnected. I'll take some pictures tomorrow if it's not raining.


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## DCH50 (Feb 10, 2020)

I had the same issue with an older Jacobson. The float in the carb was not adjusted properly and was not filling up the bowel with fuel as fast as it was burning fuel, so it would "run out" and stall. Then after a few min when it was not running, it would start right up, run for a few min and stall. I also checked the fuel line flow, all screens, filters ect. NOW, my machine is from the late 60s early 70s, and the engine is a Tecumseh snow king from the 80s, so it does not have a "low oil alert sensor" but it sounds to be like its starving for fuel.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

DCH50 said:


> I had the same issue with an older Jacobson. The float in the carb was not adjusted properly and was not filling up the bowel with fuel as fast as it was burning fuel, so it would "run out" and stall. Then after a few min when it was not running, it would start right up, run for a few min and stall. I also checked the fuel line flow, all screens, filters ect. NOW, my machine is from the late 60s early 70s, and the engine is a Tecumseh snow king from the 80s, so it does not have a "low oil alert sensor" but it sounds to be like its starving for fuel.


Thanks, but that is not the problem with this unit. New Carb, New Fuel Line, removed gas cap, new gas & cleaned fuel tank. New Spark plug, new carburetor, new ignition coil. Cleaned Magneto, adjusted intake and exhaust valves. And disconnected ignition switch ground. Fuel level and flow was perfect. I don't know yet what the problem is, but I won't give up till I find it. thanks again for your input


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

Honda Pete said:


> I adjusted the valves after the problem, thinking that maybe a valve got to tight. The clearance was in specks before I started 0.15 in and 0.20 exhaust cold setting. I also ran the unit with the ground disconnected. I'll take some pictures tomorrow if it's not raining.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

I did a video, I could not down load to this posting. I started the unit on second pull, ran for 3 minutes and stalled.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Honda Pete said:


> I did a video, I could not down load to this posting. I started the unit on second pull, ran for 3 minutes and stalled.


You have done everything right. Does it just stall or does the engine go up and down before stalling. Up and down is fuel starvation which you say is not the case. Running good and then immediate stall points to an electrical issue.

You already eliminated kill switch. 
Electrical issues are my weak spot but every time I have had this problem ( 4-5 times in last 5 years ) it has been the coil. 
I assume you used a new OEM Honda coil .

I'm stumped as well. 

groomerz mentioned disconnecting the kill wire on coil. I have never tried that and not sure what that would do.

Is it possible to use another coil? It's a longshot that 2 coils would be bad.

Is the spark plug wire and boot New?

I also have removed the boot which just unscrews and lop off the end of wire and replaced boot. Have no idea if that would help.


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## Mortten (Jan 31, 2020)

How about a sticking exhaust valve.


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> You have done everything right. Does it just stall or does the engine go up and down before stalling. Up and down is fuel starvation which you say is not the case. Running good and then immediate stall points to an electrical issue.
> 
> You already eliminated kill switch.
> Electrical issues are my weak spot but every time I have had this problem ( 4-5 times in last 5 years ) it has been the coil.
> ...


Hello, I made a video but could not post to forum. I replace the coil with an after market. Did an Ohms test and compared the two. Both had reading very close to each other. The spark plug and Resistor Cap and wire are new. Started it up on second pull today for the video, had the gas cap off and Key switch ground disconnected, ran for 3 minutes and shut down. I even have the shut down time on video.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Honda Pete said:


> Hello, I made a video but could not post to forum. I replace the coil with an after market. Did an Ohms test and compared the two. Both had reading very close to each other. The spark plug and Resistor Cap and wire are new. Started it up on second pull today for the video, had the gas cap off and Key switch ground disconnected, ran for 3 minutes and shut down. I even have the shut down time on video.


Personally I would never use an aftermarket coil. Not saying this is the culprit.
Is the plug, wire and cap also aftermarket?
Is the carb aftermarket?

If it were me I would try a Honda coil just to eliminate the coil as the problem.

For critical parts I always use OEM Honda parts. These machines can last decades. I have three...... 31,37,42 years old.


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

The kill wire on coil applies ground to turn off from the ign switch. If you remove it at coil you will not be able turn it off with switch but It eliminates any defects in the the wiring and or switch 

I do this on equipment that has no spark. It pinpoints a no spark to coil or wiring /switches. 


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## Honda Pete (Dec 1, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> Personally I would never use an aftermarket coil. Not saying this is the culprit.
> Is the plug, wire and cap also aftermarket?
> Is the carb aftermarket?
> 
> ...


 I would agree with you about after market parts, but when you get the same failure condition with or without OEM, something else is defective. I have use many Aftermarket parts, on Boat, Cars, Power Equipment, had maybe less than 1% defective parts. Most all Name brands use parts made in China, Taiwan, Japan, etc. I don't know what the problem is right now, but I bet it something simple. Gotta Think outside the Box lol lol


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Is three minutes long enough for heat or is there some kind of metaphysical capacitor playing hide and seek with us. Weird ground.
The coil measurements are in spec? Both.
In-line spark tester to watch spark, and immediately after stops. Pull cord etc.
Carb float could be failing...
Right before the three minutes are up, try the primer..


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Tony-chicago said:


> try the primer


But there's no primer on a Honda...


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

Honda Pete said:


> Has no spark after 3 minutes it shuts down. I get spark after 5-10 minutes.


We shouldn't be speaking about carb or float bowls or valves

You have no spark. Spark only comes from one source, the coil (replaced). It can be diverted by #9 to ground (essentially your key switch at the handlebar).

It can fail to get through #3, or spark plug. (replaced)

As yours times out after 3 minutes, you are building resistance somewhere in the system. (#3 or coil)
OR you are gaining an unwanted temporary ground. (#9's path)

As Groomerz has asked a few times, remove #9 from the bottom tab of the coil, not just the ground screw where the wires connect to the ignition key switch harness.

If you disconnect #9 at the coil tab and still see a no spark at 3 minutes, either the coil isn't producing it or #3 is blocking it with heat induced resistance.

If it runs on with the #9 removed at the coil tab, the wire #9 is bad or corroded at the connector to the harness as Toon pointed out earlier..


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

Try this: Start the engine, and have a can of engine starter (ether) handy. As the engine begins to die, spray some ether in the intake (air cleaner or where one would go). If she continues running, it is fuel starvation. If not, electrical. Let us know what happens.


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## GX690repowered (May 8, 2021)

Honda Pete said:


> I have a HS928WA serial number SZAS-1123806, Engine # GCAB-1820997. Starts on first pull most of the time, when throttle back on choke runs perfect. After exactly 3 minutes it shuts down. It will not start up after it stalls. Must wait 5-10 minutes, then it will start on first pull. Runs again for 3 minutes and stalls. I replaced the Carburetor, Ignition Coil, Fuel line, Cleaned and filled fuel tank with new gas. Still shuts down after 3 minutes. I think it may be a defective Oil Alert Sensor, but Can’t fine the sensor on the motor GX270,anyone know where it is located? Is it internal? Can't fine location in any Shop Manuals. Anyone have any ideas?


Tank not venting. it takes too long to fill up I'd check your gascap and check the tank for debris and sediment. See how long it takes to fill up a cup then think if your snowblowers gas demands higher flow rate


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## GX690repowered (May 8, 2021)

Tank has a


Honda Pete said:


> I have a HS928WA serial number SZAS-1123806, Engine # GCAB-1820997. Starts on first pull most of the time, when throttle back on choke runs perfect. After exactly 3 minutes it shuts down. It will not start up after it stalls. Must wait 5-10 minutes, then it will start on first pull. Runs again for 3 minutes and stalls. I replaced the Carburetor, Ignition Coil, Fuel line, Cleaned and filled fuel tank with new gas. Still shuts down after 3 minutes. I think it may be a defective Oil Alert Sensor, but Can’t fine the sensor on the motor GX270,anyone know where it is located? Is it internal? Can't fine location in any Shop Manuals. Anyone have any ideas?


tank filter is located on the bottom screws in to tank and the fuel line connects to it. Just unscrew out and replace it


Honda Pete said:


> I have a HS928WA serial number SZAS-1123806, Engine # GCAB-1820997. Starts on first pull most of the time, when throttle back on choke runs perfect. After exactly 3 minutes it shuts down. It will not start up after it stalls. Must wait 5-10 minutes, then it will start on first pull. Runs again for 3 minutes and stalls. I replaced the Carburetor, Ignition Coil, Fuel line, Cleaned and filled fuel tank with new gas. Still shuts down after 3 minutes. I think it may be a defective Oil Alert Sensor, but Can’t fine the sensor on the motor GX270,anyone know where it is located? Is it internal? Can't fine location in any Shop Manuals. Anyone have any ideas?


Tank filter get replaced when you cleaned it? It screws in at the bottom of your tank your fuel line connects to it. Easy to replace


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## GX690repowered (May 8, 2021)

If if it wastaking the sa


Honda Pete said:


> I have a HS928WA serial number SZAS-1123806, Engine # GCAB-1820997. Starts on first pull most of the time, when throttle back on choke runs perfect. After exactly 3 minutes it shuts down. It will not start up after it stalls. Must wait 5-10 minutes, then it will start on first pull. Runs again for 3 minutes and stalls. I replaced the Carburetor, Ignition Coil, Fuel line, Cleaned and filled fuel tank with new gas. Still shuts down after 3 minutes. I think it may be a defective Oil Alert Sensor, but Can’t fine the sensor on the motor GX270,anyone know where it is located? Is it internal? Can't fine location in any Shop Manuals. Anyone have any ideas?


if the oil sensor was bad it wouldn't start its your tank filter most likely the gas cap is second choice but doubt it


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

GX690repowered said:


> If if it wastaking the sa
> if the oil sensor was bad it wouldn't start its your tank filter most likely the gas cap is second choice but doubt it


did you read ALL the posts???
The answer I believe is in post #60.


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## Johner (Dec 30, 2020)

Honda Pete said:


> That was the first thing I did was remove the gas cap, did the same thing, ran for 3 minutes and shut down.
> 
> The fuel valve is on, also did a flow test to see how much fuel was flowing thru the fuel lines and carburetor. The flow was more than needed.


I would guess float has dirt under the seat, there has to be a screen some place, in the tank? something floating around then covers the screen from running vibrations. I had a Honda problem the bad gas, "jell" was lodged in the fuel line from tank to carb. I will bet the carb has a screen or dirt. When it runs for 3 minutes is it at an idle or half open throttle? Try another position and see if the 3 minutes persists.


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## Johner (Dec 30, 2020)

Honda Pete said:


> Thanks, but that is not the problem with this unit. New Carb, New Fuel Line, removed gas cap, new gas & cleaned fuel tank. New Spark plug, new carburetor, new ignition coil. Cleaned Magneto, adjusted intake and exhaust valves. And disconnected ignition switch ground. Fuel level and flow was perfect. I don't know yet what the problem is, but I won't give up till I find it. thanks again for your input


Chang your fuel shut off valve. Guarantee it is the problem.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

😂 
Good luck Honda Pete.


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

groomerz said:


> Disconnect coil kill wire at engine
> 
> Do you have spark tester
> 
> ...


Ok, I've reread all the posts, and still am unsure how the no spark condition was verified as the culprit. just sayin'


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## Toon (May 11, 2021)

Honda Pete said:


> Has no spark after 3 minutes it shuts down. I get spark after 5-10 minutes.


From post #10


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

😂 
Good luck Honda Pete.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

If you don't study history, you will repeat the mistakes of the past. And, if one doesn't read all the posts and replies, the same suggestions will keep popping up.


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## Johner (Dec 30, 2020)

Honda Pete said:


> That was the first thing I did was remove the gas cap, did the same thing, ran for 3 minutes and shut down.
> 
> The fuel valve is on, also did a flow test to see how much fuel was flowing thru the fuel lines and carburetor. The flow was more than needed.


Did you do a 3-minute gas flow test?


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Has the op responded?
Is there no spark after the three minutes despite pull starting or such?
Starting fluid test.
Done the coil and ground test.


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

Toon said:


> From post #10


Ya, but how determined? With a tester? Positive? I mean hey, everyone is scratching their heads.


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

WrenchIt said:


> If you don't study history, you will repeat the mistakes of the past. And, if one doesn't read all the posts and replies, the same suggestions will keep popping up.


I concur, but what is the new correct answer


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

Darby said:


> I concur, but what is the new correct answer


Ok. First of all, @Honda Pete, the OP's last comment was post #57. He is one guy and we are many and its obvious we have overwhelmed this thread with suggestions. Second, when troubleshooting, one has to progress in a logical fashion, eliminating possible causes as we go. I made a suggestion about using starter fluid to determine if this is a fuel issue or an electrical one, and there has been no response. Excepting Pete's part replacements and various testing of components (gas flow, coil resistance, etc.) we have no real information that this is one or the other (gas or spark). Throwing parts at a problem often will correct the problem, but can mask the real cause, especially if you change a number of parts at once, then do a test run.

Right now, I think the correct answer is we need to sit tight and let Pete get back to us. This is not rocket science. If it is a fuel issue, then it is either carb passages, float issues, or fuel valve issues (he has sufficient flow through the filter and carb supply hose). If it is electrical, it is spark plug, plug wire, coil, grounding issue. (Did I miss anything?) Once we know which way the wind is blowing, it should be straightforward to find the problem....if approached in a logical way. Where is Spock when we need him, anyway?


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## The Smokehouse (Nov 24, 2020)

I am in awe with all the advice .I am no mechanic, but for combustion you need fuel, an ignition source and oxygen.I may be wrong but there has been no advice on oxygen.Does the carb have a manual choke or an automatic one.Could the choke be engaging after heating up and starving the engine of oxygen.Then when the engine cools down the problem corrects itself until the engine heats up again.and the problem manifests itself again.


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## Tony-chicago (Feb 10, 2021)

Any updates?


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