# 5.5 hp model# 247.883550- Seriously need help



## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Hello,

I am new to the forum and new to snowblower repair. 

The problem- will not start. If I put a little fuel in the chamber and hit the electric start it will sputter, get a little bit out the exhaust, but it will not really get going.

What I have tried- Removed the carb, cleaned the main jet, the idle screw, the float bowl, run water through the main nozzle (clear), used carb cleaner on alot of the carb.

Fuel check- put fresh fuel in, it is getting to the float bowl. If I use the corded started, then fuel gets into the carb, I notice fuel in a vapor form puffing out from where the choke plate is when pulling on the cord.

Intake manifold- Took off the spark plug, pulled the starter cord (recoil starter), and when the intake valve opened I was able to spray a little carb cleaner through it. The fluid came out the other side of the manifold where the carb would be.

Ignition test- I removed the spark plug, laid it against the engine and pulled the recoil cord starter, I could see the spark, blue in color, jumping the gap on the plug and touch onto the engine. 

Here is my last observation/guess- When the carb is cleaned and attached, and I hit the electric start, it will not start but I do know fuel is leaving the main nozzle into the carb. Choke plate is closed, throttle all the way open. After I stop trying, I take the spark plug off and look into the chamber. I notice that there appears to be no fuel near the intake port/valve, it looks dry. Does this mean its not reaching the engine? 

SO, is this a carb problem, a compression issue, or something else? I am really trying here but feel stumped.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

It very much look like you need another carb clean but if I was you I would get a rebuild kit. You can verify as you did with a little more gas in the spark plug hole and see if it fires up for a few seconds. Some members here have had to clean the carb many times over and even with an electric pulse cleaner and some even found it cheaper to buy a new carb and be done with it. Just make sure you have everything else top notch like spark plug etc. Good Luck


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

I think you need a complete carb overhaul. if you have a compression tester by all means. feel free to check that. sounds like 1 of the passages in the body of the carb itself is plugged.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

once again I forgot. ALOHA to the forms..


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

I think your right, and so is powershift. I will look at the cost of a new carb. If not then perhaps a rebuild kit. I will re-post all of this after I try one of the two. Heavily leaning towards a new carb.


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

A new Carb is $90. The repair kit is $12, but its just a "repair kit". It looks like its just some o-rings and screws and a fuel inlet needle. I think a whole new carb is worth a try, if more experienced people are cleaning these carbs many times over and even then not getting good results, then the wise move I think is to go for a new carb.

But honestly, $90 for carb, do brands other than craftsman have carb issues like this?


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the forum jenkinsm2. Have you tried removing the spark plug and putting a "little" gas into the cylinder and try starting it? If it starts and runs for a few seconds, you have a carb problem that could probably be fixed with a "thorough cleaning". Here are links to the engine service manual for your Tecumseh flat head motor and carb cleaning how to by our favorite small engine mechanic - donyboy73. Your machine was manufactured for Sears by MTD, and yes other brands of snow blowers have the same problem usually caused by improper storage.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

jenk
you need to spray a little carb cleaner in the plug hole and try firing her up. It is more volatile than gasoline and will "prime" the engine. You should have 3/4 choke when you do this which should be rich enough to run once fuel starts making its way to the cylinder. You need to have a little throttle dialed in as well. After many attempts to start an engine, it needs to clear itself out to run properly. Once she starts, be ready to open the choke as soon as you can. If you have fuel exiting the main nozzle and entering the throat of the carb, it is making it to the cylinder. I wouldn't give up on your carb just yet. MH


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

When you say you cleaned the "idle screw" do you mean the torx head screw at the top of this photo. You have an idle circuit jet hidden under the little black cap just above my thumb. You can pick it off with a small screwdriver and find the brass jet behind it. Unscrew it and chase the side hole and tiny tiny hole in the tip with a bread tie wire. The tip is likely clogged and you may need to soak it in carb cleaner for a bit until the wire will go all the way in and be seen through the side hole. If you've already done that, disregard. I just did this clean on a very slightly used Poulan (fuel valve left on and stored for awhile) with a Tec 5.5hp LH195SP 67510D model, sears lists yours as LH195SP67514. I would knock out the emulsion tube and o-rings and replace those too,~$2







TECUMSEH ENGINE Parts | Model LH195SP-67514 | SearsPartsDirect


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

JT clays,

I removed the idle screw under the black cap, and I did use a bread tie wire on the holes on that idle screw (looks more like a bronze bolt). I have not re-assembled the carb after this cleaning but I will today and see what happens. I also used the bread tie wire to clean out the atmospheric hole that is up and to the left of the primer pump hole (it looks like the brown spot in the picture above). Thank you everyone again, I will try using carb clean to prime the engine and give it another shot. But most likley I am buying the new carb on Friday.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Cool you got that one. The one I worked on the emulsion tube was all plugged and the top o-ring came out like black snot, complete goo. The tube is less than $2 and the o-rings cheaper. Blade of a screwdriver will push it out from the venturi down. There is a small hole inside the center stalk in the threads directly inside where the bb ball is on the outside of the stalk. Spray and chase that with wire. If you open that side hidden brass jet and spray carb cleaner in it you should see it come out the tiny tiny little holes in the side of the venturi on the throttle side, or chase those with wire also. Looking into the carb on the throttle side and flap the butterfly open, look to your right around 3 o'clock, you'll see them.


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Thank you for the videos, I will watch them all and do my best, the snowblower is my father's. He probably did not store it well, but I can't have him out there shoveling, and learning how to fix this engine has been fun. 

I will respond after I follow the instructions in the videos.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

jenkinsm2 said:


> Thank you for the videos, I will watch them all and do my best, the snowblower is my father's. He probably did not store it well, but I can't have him out there shoveling, and learning how to fix this engine has been fun.
> 
> I will respond after I follow the instructions in the videos.


I ran a 5.5 Tecumseh for years. when I started having trouble with the carb. I ordered another one.....bolted it on......it started and ran great.....get a replacement carb.......live life to it's fullest.


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Hello

I am going to reassemble the carb tomorrow, but I also wanted to ask if perhaps the crankcase breather could be not working right and affecting the intake? Is it possible that the breather is not right and there is a poor vacuum being for intake as a result?


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

The crankcase breather can be easily checked now that your carb is off. 2 screws and remove the plate. If it isn't black and sooty, it's working. Don't pull out all the gaskets as they rip easily and then you'll have to order new ones. Did you ever try the carb cleaner down the plug hole approach. MH


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Yes, after cleaning the carb once I tried carb cleaner in the combustion chamber, it still did not fully start. It would sputter a few times but never fully start. I noticed that it will get a good single combustion noise when the cleaner is sprayed in but after that it just does not work, so I am guessing poor carb operation. I bought a new carb and it will arrive on 12/17.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

I hope the new carb works, but I believe you might have an ignition, valve or compression problem that will still be there. If an engine will not start with a little gas in the cylinder, it is not normally a carb problem. I have heard of people starting an engine with NO carb just by adding gas in the cylinder. I do hope the new carb works and I am wrong (nothing new).


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## jenkinsm2 (Dec 7, 2014)

Grunt, you are right, sadly, the new carb has not solved the problem. The park plus does work, I see it spark when I put it on the engine block. 

About a month ago, someone took apart the crankcase to replace the crankcase seal and the seal on the auger side around the crankshaft. Perhaps they put the flywheel on wrong? I really do not know how to check for correct compression of for proper ignition timing. Can someone help?


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