# Do All Snowblowers Have a Hard Time with Wet Snow?



## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

I've had a Honda HS828 for close to 20 years, and lately, with all the heavy, wet snow, I've been experiencing clogging of the chute requiring a stop to clear the wet cement-like mass. In cold, dry conditions, the machine will arc the snow 25 or 30 feet, with no problems whatsoever.

This is not a Honda specific thread. Do all snowblowers have this problem? Do some brands handle all types of snow better than others? What characteristics of a snowblower that handles wet snow allow it to do so?


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## ou2mame (Dec 23, 2019)

Look up impeller kit and do that


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## SilentHatch (Aug 23, 2019)

@WrenchIt I have a Honda HS828.. 

I did exactly what @ou2mame is suggesting and I throw plain old water 15 feet now.

It is singlehandedly the best modification that you can do to a snowblower.

I did notice that because there is no room for excess snow to get left behind, I've got to go a touch slower in forward just to ensure everything is cleared up and blown away.

Let me know if you want pics - I think I might have posted some in my history.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

In addition to the impeller mod a good sanding and painting of the chute would help was well. Rusting and rough metal just let the snow stick that much better.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

ou2mame said:


> Look up impeller kit and do that


Interesting, I did a search here, found a link to a discussion on another outdoor power equipment website and it said, _"I would say every 2 stage machine out there, with the exception of Hondas and Yamahas._ _They already have a tight gap between the impeller and the housing and would not show any improvement." _Another poster said: _"First check the gap between your impeller and the housing. If it's less than 1/4", adding an impeller kit would not gain anything except pumping slush and water."_

Tomorrow I'll check the clearance. It sounds like it might be worth a try if the clearance is over 1/4"


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

with my impeller kit my old 80willstillthrow the wettest cement. about 10 feet. in normalconditions about 30-40- feet. would clog beforekit.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

WrenchIt said:


> Interesting, I did a search here, found a link to a discussion on another outdoor power equipment website and it said, _"I would say every 2 stage machine out there, with the exception of Hondas and Yamahas._ _They already have a tight gap between the impeller and the housing and would not show any improvement." _Another poster said: _"First check the gap between your impeller and the housing. If it's less than 1/4", adding an impeller kit would not gain anything except pumping slush and water."_
> 
> Tomorrow I'll check the clearance. It sounds like it might be worth a try if the clearance is over 1/4"


on most 828'syou can put your little finger in gap.


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## Pauleastend63 (Nov 23, 2020)

SilentHatch said:


> @WrenchIt I have a Honda HS828..
> 
> I did exactly what @ou2mame is suggesting and I throw plain old water 15 feet now.
> 
> ...


Yup, like a pump on wheels....or tracks.


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## SilentHatch (Aug 23, 2019)

Pauleastend63 said:


> Yup, like a pump on wheels....or tracks.


Yup, on wheels for me, love it. It's real fun watching the neighbors stare in awe of just how much snow this machine moves.. need to jet it higher and it will move more!

Hopefully this is a quick fix for @WrenchIt and they are able to get their 828 turned into a water relocation machine.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

SilentHatch said:


> Yup, on wheels for me, love it. It's real fun watching the neighbors stare in awe of just how much snow this machine moves.. need to jet it higher and it will move more!
> 
> Hopefully this is a quick fix for @WrenchIt and they are able to get their 828 turned into a water relocation machine.


member here ) the fixer ) sold me on impeller kits when he took a Honda hs1132 into about 8-10 inch deep of WATER and it threw it about 25-30 feet.


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

In the mean time you could use some fluid film spray on the impeller and chute.


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

if i were you i would start by checking my impeller bearing especially if this a new issue that just began to occur in the past few years


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## ou2mame (Dec 23, 2019)

arienskids said:


> if i were you i would start by checking my impeller bearing especially if this a new issue that just began to occur in the past few years


Yeah could be impeller bearing, or any other bearing that's creating excess load on the engine. Disengage the auger brake and spin the pulley and make sure it spins freely. Also, check the engine RPM and make sure its within spec too.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

I've recently had issues with slush clogging the chute impeller exit . . . the next day, in similar conditions it was fine. So, maybe these machines have a mind of their own . . . 

I've done the impeller mod on all of my machines. They will throw water about 8 feet. When they do clog, it seems that I wasn't running the engine fast enough.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

WrenchIt said:


> I've had a Honda HS828 for close to 20 years, and lately, with all the heavy, wet snow, I've been experiencing clogging of the chute requiring a stop to clear the wet cement-like mass. In cold, dry conditions, the machine will arc the snow 25 or 30 feet, with no problems whatsoever.


Pull the belt cover and inspect the auger belt. If it looks worn or hasn't been replaced in a number of years, I would just change it. Also check to see if the tension on the auger engagement cable is still within factory spec. As the machine ages, those cables stretch out and require periodic adjustment.


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## robs9 (Sep 5, 2018)

I've looked at the gap on my Toro 1028 Power Max and don't see much of a gap. So should I still look at doing the impeller mode? It does clog once in awhile. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@tpenfield,

" it seems that I wasn't running the engine fast enough. "

Machines like snowblowers and lawnmowers were meant to operate at full throttle. running at low throttle impedes there performance and is not recommended.

Unless you mean that you should have been in a higher gear with the unit itself ??


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## RAOUL225 (Jan 24, 2020)

I have 6 separate auger fins on my MTD....3 on each side of the gear box. Wet heavy snow will clog between the fins before they contact the impeller.It will throw fresh powdery snow 25' or more.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

I just checked my HS828. the clearance between the impeller and the housing is on the order of 3/16 to 1/8" for most of the circular housing, and it widens where the housing transitions to the chute. You guys had a lot of good suggestions. In the coming weeks I will yank the impeller and install one of these kits - what do I have to lose? The impeller bearing feels fine and the belts are tight. I will sand the chute and transition area and put a new coat of enamel paint on it (yes it is rusty), and I'll check engine rpms. All great suggestions. Thank you all, especially @ou2mame, @SilentHatch, @Shryp, @orangputeh for your help. What a great site for snowblower info!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

WrenchIt said:


> I just checked my HS828. the clearance between the impeller and the housing is on the order of 3/16 to 1/8" for most of the circular housing, and it widens where the housing transitions to the chute. You guys had a lot of good suggestions. In the coming weeks I will yank the impeller and install one of these kits - what do I have to lose? The impeller bearing feels fine and the belts are tight. I will sand the shute and transition area and put a new coat of enamel paint on it (yes it is rusty), and I'll check engine rpms. All great suggestions. Thank you all, especially @ou2mame, @SilentHatch, @Shryp, @orangputeh for your help. What a great site for snowblower info!


looking forward to your progress.ya.rust doesnt help much.


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## SilentHatch (Aug 23, 2019)

WrenchIt said:


> I just checked my HS828. the clearance between the impeller and the housing is on the order of 3/16 to 1/8" for most of the circular housing, and it widens where the housing transitions to the chute. You guys had a lot of good suggestions. In the coming weeks I will yank the impeller and install one of these kits - what do I have to lose? The impeller bearing feels fine and the belts are tight. I will sand the shute and transition area and put a new coat of enamel paint on it (yes it is rusty), and I'll check engine rpms. All great suggestions. Thank you all, especially @ou2mame, @SilentHatch, @Shryp, @orangputeh for your help. What a great site for snowblower info!





orangputeh said:


> looking forward to your progress.ya.rust doesnt help much.



@WrenchIt I installed my impeller kit without removing the impeller... Just used a 2x4 to wedge into the impeller so it didn't move while I was drilling out the holes. 
Used 6 stainless bolts with nylock nuts, I put marine grease on them on final install to keep the water out. 

Also, I like to order one of the "one-stage paddle replacement" rubber pieces on Amazon and cut that up, since it's for the same purpose.
You will have a burning rubber smell after install, that goes away.

Oh, I spray painted my impeller housing after installing the kit so I wouldn't have to spray it twice. Just sprayed the housing, used that 2x4 to rotate a little, sprayed more.

If you need any help, reach out to us and we will get you situated. Orangputeh and Tabora are the two resident smart folks when it comes to Honda. Super glad they helped me out!


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

SilentHatch said:


> @WrenchIt I installed my impeller kit without removing the impeller... Just used a 2x4 to wedge into the impeller so it didn't move while I was drilling out the holes.
> Used 6 stainless bolts with nylock nuts, I put marine grease on them on final install to keep the water out.
> 
> Also, I like to order one of the "one-stage paddle replacement" rubber pieces on Amazon and cut that up, since it's for the same purpose.
> ...


on a honda it is real easy to remove augers and impeller.you can service the augers/impeller by cleaning the rust out of shafts and auger gearbox arms and applying anti seize.

but the impeller rubber flaps can be installed with impeller on like mentioned here. i usually spray some dawn dish soap and water mix on inside of impeller housing to break flaps in SLOWLY. just push down auger handle easily to start impeller slowly and then go faster and faster until flaps are broke in.that way the flaps wont melt from heat nor break. 

good idea about single stage paddle for impeller flap material.Iforgot I have a boxful of worn up paddles from my old 520's. will try them next.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Another great tip to prevent clogging and increase throw distance is to spray non-stick cooking spray or silicone spray lubricant (like WD-40, Blaster Silicone Spray Lubricant, or Fluid Film) all over the inside of your discharge chute before heading out to clear snow. You will be amazed at the difference it makes in terms of throwing the snow further and preventing clogging. I actually like to spay the discharge chute, impeller housing, and auger rakes before and after using the machine. I find the silicone spray does a great job preventing rust after I towel dry the machine after each use. I usually go through 1-2 cans of silicone spray each winter but Walmart has the CRC Spray Lubricant for $2.97 so it's pretty cheap and keeps the chute and auger box rust free.


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## Auger1 (Dec 4, 2020)

For me in the wet snow nothing and I mean nothing has worked better than my Craftsman 5hp 2 cycle single stage blower. Once in a great moon the shute will clog but it's rare since I put the new carburetor on it a couple of years ago for leaking and flooding it has been very reliable in the wet crap. The auger mod does work quite well as I found out with the flaps I put on my Ariens compact 24, blows further than ever.


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

Maybe I am just lucky. My old 32' Bolen never ever plugged the chute NOR at least so far has my Ariens 28 Pro that replaced the Bolens


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Uhhhh, are you sure your impeller bearing is good? Its usually very tough to tell if you try to check without removing the augers and auger transmission off of the bucket as the auger transmission/augers hold the impeller straight and if you try to wiggle it the impeller wont move making you believe that the bearing is fine. Your impeller should sound like a turbine when the machine is singing at WOT. If its an older unit then the bearing is most likely shot, its a common wear item and I have yet to work on a machine thats older than 5 years that didnt need a new bearing. Tension on the auger belt might also need to be adjusted as over time the belt may stretch a bit.

And I have never had an HS unit clog on me EVER. (Now watch one clog on me next time I go to use it, lol).


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## stealthninja (Feb 14, 2020)

Funnily enough I had one of these Bob Cat snowblowers years ago and it never needed a special auger kit. The thing would throw water! Eventually the parts became unobtanium and I had to go back to using my JD522. Although, last year I picked up a Yamaha 828W. It runs great but I am heading into the parts availability issue again.


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## amuller (Jan 3, 2016)

There are also special slippery paints that may be worthwhile after the snow path is sanded and primed. I have some that's a dark grey graphite coating--seems very slippery.....


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

amuller said:


> There are also special slippery paints that may be worthwhile after the snow path is sanded and primed. I have some that's a dark grey graphite coating--seems very slippery.....


I'm aware of some specialty paints like that - iirc, they use some of them on the bottom of old boats like the America's Cup yachts. But those are extremely expensive - make bottom anti fouling paints look dirt cheap and some of those go for well over $100 a gallon. For painting the inside of the discharge chute I will need, what, 4 oz? Once upon a time you could probably buy a small can of specialty paints like that but today? I doubt it.

Do you have any brands in mind? How about mixing colloidal graphite in some gray paint?


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## foggysail (Feb 21, 2015)

Gees, I cannot remember ever having a problem with wet snow even with my old Bowlen with a 12 HP Tecumseh engine. Certainly no issues so far with my Ariens 28 Pro. And both machines had/have great throwing power with no need for any changes to the impellers.


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## IndianaRidgeline (Dec 15, 2020)

leonz said:


> In the mean time you could use some fluid film spray on the impeller and chute.


Good point Leonz. IMHO, worth trying. I just picked up a bottle of Turtle Wax 50997 Ice Seal N Shine Hybrid Sealant Spray Wax, 16 oz, for $8.99 USD, at my local Wally World. Going to give the bucket, auger, impeller, and chute a good clean and wipe down, then apply this product and see how it does. I realize it is a short term solution until I acquire the needed "impeller kit parts" to improve "throwing" performance.


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## Fmatt (Dec 31, 2020)

I'd bet anything your impeller belt is loose or stretched. Try tightening or maybe replacing it. I had the same problem with my old one where gradually the clogging got worse. First I put in an impeller kit as others have described. They are great. Then I checked the belt that turns the impeller, duh, it was loose and the slipping caused the impeller to stop turning when it encountered heavy snow. Once I tightened it and later replaced it, together with the impeller kit it threw any kind of snow like crazy.


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## Frostikins (Dec 17, 2020)

I've never found one that won't clog. I had a Toro 8-24 that I fit and bolted rubber from tractor trailer mud flaps on to the impeller paddles so that they would close the gap between the impeller tips and the chute. Didn't seem to make a bit of difference. Maybe I was unlucky or it was not meant to be but the chute kept clogging with slush.

The secret is stopping the slush from sticking to the chute and accumulating. It really makes no difference if you put rubber impeller kits on the blades because the wet snow/slush will seal that area between the impeller tips and the chute, just like the impeller kits will. It's the chute throat where the clogging happens.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Frostikins said:


> The secret is stopping the slush from sticking to the chute and accumulating. It really makes no difference if you put rubber impeller kits on the blades because the wet snow/slush will seal that area between the impeller tips and the chute, just like the impeller kits will. It's the chute throat where the clogging happens.


Au Contraire... It makes quite a bit of difference, as several members have proved by testing the same model machines side-by-side with/without a proper impeller mod.

Blowing slush with a HSS1328 with an impeller mod (and also with a HS720):


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## Frostikins (Dec 17, 2020)

That is impressive. My Toro can't do that, even with the rubber blades bolted to the impeller blades. All I can say is that in my particular case it made no difference. I didn't watch the whole video. Was there a before and after impeller kit installation test in that video? What is an UMHW lined chute? As I said, I believe the chute clogging is the real problem.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Frostikins said:


> That is impressive. My Toro can't do that, even with the rubber blades bolted to the impeller blades. All I can say is that in my particular case it made no difference. I didn't watch the whole video. Was there a before and after impeller kit installation test in that video? What is an UMHW lined chute? As I said, I believe the chute clogging is the real problem.


are you sure you got the impeller mod done properly and the gap between the impeller and housing minimal? every machine i have done it to has seen noticeable improvement including the ability to almost never clog no matter how wet the snow is.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Since doing it to my MTD 4 or 5 years ago i have never had a clog. Knock on wood.....


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## Frostikins (Dec 17, 2020)

crazzywolfie said:


> are you sure you got the impeller mod done properly and the gap between the impeller and housing minimal? every machine i have done it to has seen noticeable improvement including the ability to almost never clog no matter how wet the snow is.


I bolted the rubber on so it lightly contacted the inside of the barrel and wore into place and leaves no gap. The rust you see in in the throat of the chute and that is where the slush accumulates. Painting and lubricating that area would probably help but I've tried PAM, silicone spray, and wax to no avail. Painting that area is difficult and would need to be done yearly as sand and small stones at the end of the driveway would soon chip it off. The impeller bearing is not loose and worn and the belt is in good shape and it throws wet heavy show well but clogs on slush.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

Frostikins said:


> That is impressive. My Toro can't do that, even with the rubber blades bolted to the impeller blades. All I can say is that in my particular case it made no difference. I didn't watch the whole video. Was there a before and after impeller kit installation test in that video? What is an UMHW lined chute? As I said, I believe the chute clogging is the real problem.


I think you meant UHMW - ultra high molecular weight plastic - usually polyethylene. I've also seen a pic of a teflon (PTFE) lined chute. This is much more slippery than the metal chute.


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## Frostikins (Dec 17, 2020)

WrenchIt said:


> I think you meant UHMW - ultra high molecular weight plastic - usually polyethylene. I've also seen a pic of a teflon (PTFE) lined chute. This is much more slippery than the metal chute.


Yes, that's it. I had dyslexia but now I'm ko  I think that would be a great help. I got so tired of cleaning out my chute that I just made a snow plow for my blower out of a quarter sheet of plywood. It works great for slush.


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