# Honda HS55 Track Blower - drive clutch lever



## buried (Jan 4, 2014)

I have an old Honda HS55 track snowblower that works great. I just went out to blow some snow, and after about 10 minutes, suddenly the drive clutch lever (left side) quit working. It is completely disconnected from the cables or anything else other than the pivot. I am embarrassed to say I have no idea how the lever is supposed to actuate the cables, it looks to be a completely different setup than the auger clutch lever. Apparently there is supposed to be some kind of cam that pulls both cables, and interlocks with the drive auger? Something obviously fell off into the 12 inches of snow we have, and there is no way I am going to find it until it melts, which might be March or April! 

The exploded diagrams I have found are terrible. Does anyone have a photo of the left side handlebar on an HS55, or at least a verbal description of what is supposed to be there? Thanks.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

Did you check your belt? If you snapped your drive belt, you won't get any movement...There is very little on the left side drive lever that can "fall off"

After you check the belt, if it's not broken, you need to start looking at the two cables that control the drive mechanism - the belt tensioning cable and the trans cable. Is either broken? Is the drive pulley tensioner engaging the belt with enough tension?

If it's not a the belt, a cable, or belt tension, last options are to the friction disk or drive trans/gearbox.

Good diagrams here for HS55 TA:All Years HS55K1 TAS SNOW BLOWER, JPN Honda Snowblower HANDLEBAR Diagram and Parts


Below is a picture of an HS80 (almost the same as an HS55) drive clutch lever if it helps diagnose your problem:


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## buried (Jan 4, 2014)

Rockproof said:


> Did you check your belt? If you snapped your drive belt, you won't get any movement...There is very little on the left side drive lever that can "fall off"
> 
> After you check the belt, if it's not broken, you need to start looking at the two cables that control the drive mechanism - the belt tensioning cable and the trans cable. Is either broken? Is the drive pulley tensioner engaging the belt with enough tension?
> 
> ...


The drive clutch lever is not attached to *anything* at this point except the pivot, so it is not anything off of the handle bar that is the issue. 

I think from looking at your photo that there must have been a sleeve on the pivot that would rotate the shaft, and that would pull the cables? 

Is that the case? The cables are pulled by the rod/shaft the runs between the left and right side? The lever at this point is not attached to that shaft.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

When you push down on the drive clutch lever does the cable on the right side under the auger clutch lever move/tighten?

If not, do you see the black bushing in the close-up of the lever below? There is a pin that goes through that bushing and through the inner rod. Is there just an empty hole on yours? Is so, try inserting a cotter pin...


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## buried (Jan 4, 2014)

Rockproof said:


> When you push down on the drive clutch lever does the cable on the right side under the auger clutch lever move/tighten?
> 
> If not, do you see the black bushing in the close-up of the lever below? There is a pin that goes through that bushing and through the inner rod. Is there just an empty hole on yours? Is so, try inserting a cotter pin...
> 
> View attachment 7658


OK, thank you, now we are getting somewhere. The lever is completely free rotating at this point, with no resistance whatsoever. 

The pin must have broken, which explains why I couldn't find anything laying in the snow. It is dark now, so I'll have to see in the morning if I can jam a cotter in there. That hole is very small.


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## Ryan_in_Chi (Jan 5, 2014)

Believe it or not, but my 1985 HS55 developed the same problem today. I was about 2/3 of the way through and the drive level fell almost to the floor and I had no go. This is the first time I've had any problems with it in the 10 years I've owned it!

This post is helpful. I now understand how the drive lever works. On mine, I've found the two cables on the right side for the drive and auger. When I push the drive level, I get a little tightening in the drive cable, but not enough to engage. If I push down on the drive cable, I can make the drive handle go up. I'm guessing my drive cable snapped or came loose at the engine. It looks like I have to take a cover off to see that.

I think I may have a different problem then above. So, please forgive the threadjacking. But, I'm not sure I'm seeing the cotter pin in your photo or what you're describing. So maybe I do have the same problem.

I just finished shoveling by hand and pulled the snowblower into the garage and turned the heater on. I'm waiting to for myself and the garage to warm up. Any help would be appreciated.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

Ryan,

It's not a cotter pin. Ok, let's see if I can get this straight for the OP and you. Only a theory at this point as to what may be amiss.

See breakout of HS55 handlebar below:

What I am saying is that part#34 which is a spring pin came out or broke (this is unlikely but possible as these things are a bear to remove). #34 goes through #22 (the black thing in my close-up picture above) and through the hole at the end of #21. These pieces tied together is what tensions the drive cable on the right side when you push down the lever. No pin and the lever can't rotate #21 and the cable can't be tensioned...


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## Ryan_in_Chi (Jan 5, 2014)

Thanks. That helps. I believe my problem is down somewhere below part #1 or #2 in that picture. I took the cover off and everything is in working to that part. But the spring is loose down below. I'm not sure how to get to it or even see what the problem is.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Probably access it from below. You may have to tip it up onto the auger case.


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## Ryan_in_Chi (Jan 5, 2014)

Thanks. I took the bottom plate off and couldn't see a thing. Part #1 looks like it connects to a second spring below (not shown in above figure). When I took the bottom plate off, I could see the bottom spring and it looked okay. So something between the top spring and the bottom spring. 

There probably is an easy way to access it, but I'm not seeing it. There is a guy in my neighborhood that advertises a snowblower / lawnmower repairs. I think I'm going to take it to him. Hopefully, the OP's problem is easier.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Could it be this has loosened itself up?






Located at #21 and #22 of this image:










May be a stab in the dark, but it also may be worth look at, they are in the same generally vicinity.


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## buried (Jan 4, 2014)

Rockproof said:


> Ryan,
> 
> It's not a cotter pin. Ok, let's see if I can get this straight for the OP and you. Only a theory at this point as to what may be amiss.
> 
> ...


The spring pin is my problem. I couldn't even tell from the exploded diagram that #34 was a part! 

Now the issue is that it looks like the ends of the pin are still in the bushing, but the center is frozen in the shaft (#21), and it looks like I have to disassemble the whole dang thing to get at it.

I might just weld it together.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

Don't weld anything yet!!! On you machine, #22 goes in between the fork on #11, then the #21 (rod) goes through the entire handlebar assembly (from right to left...picking up 12 and any other parts on the right side) , through the right fork of 11, the through 22 and finally out the left fork of 11. The spring clip #34 then goes through the top of 22 (small hole), through 21, and then just to the bottom of 22 (the holes through 21 and 22 must be aligned).

Hope you were able to follow that mess above...to the root of my explanation...I'm not sure what you mean by "it looks like the ends of the pin are still in the bushing, but the center is frozen in the shaft". Is 21 tied to 22 with 23 (the spring clip)? If so, the spring clip isn't your issue. If you suspect 23 is broken, drive the remains of the clip back out through the hole with a center punch (this is about the only way spring clips can be installed and removed). Temporarily fasten the two together again with a cotter pin or wire and order a new spring clip...

Maybe I am completely off base here though...


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## Ryan_in_Chi (Jan 5, 2014)

buried said:


> The spring pin is my problem. I couldn't even tell from the exploded diagram that #34 was a part!
> 
> Now the issue is that it looks like the ends of the pin are still in the bushing, but the center is frozen in the shaft (#21), and it looks like I have to disassemble the whole dang thing to get at it.
> 
> I might just weld it together.


Ah. Glad you figured your problem out. It sounds much easier than mine. Good luck.


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## buried (Jan 4, 2014)

Rockproof said:


> Don't weld anything yet!!! On you machine, #22 goes in between the fork on #11, then the #21 (rod) goes through the entire handlebar assembly (from right to left...picking up 12 and any other parts on the right side) , through the right fork of 11, the through 22 and finally out the left fork of 11. The spring clip #34 then goes through the top of 22 (small hole), through 21, and then just to the bottom of 22 (the holes through 21 and 22 must be aligned).
> 
> Hope you were able to follow that mess above...to the root of my explanation...I'm not sure what you mean by "it looks like the ends of the pin are still in the bushing, but the center is frozen in the shaft". Is 21 tied to 22 with 23 (the spring clip)? If so, the spring clip isn't your issue. If you suspect 23 is broken, drive the remains of the clip back out through the hole with a center punch (this is about the only way spring clips can be installed and removed). Temporarily fasten the two together again with a cotter pin or wire and order a new spring clip...
> 
> Maybe I am completely off base here though...


When I look at the bushing, the ends of the spring clip protrude out the top and the bottom. I haven't had a chance to do it yet, but I think I'll be able to pull them out with needlenose pliers. 

The rest of the clip is still in the shaft labelled 21. The hole is very small. It is going to take a really small punch to get it out, and there isn't a lot of room to get a punch in there. It seems like a weak design, because the spring clip labelled 34 is maybe 1mm in diameter.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

So you think you sheared the spring pin into 3 pieces? At this point you believe 22 is rotating around 21? Those pins are usually high tensile steel and not prone to breaking...but again, anything is possible.

Just so we are on the same sheet of music, when you depress the left drive clutch lever, the cable on the right side is not tensioning the arm and pulley against the drive belt (must remove the belt cover to observe)?

Btw, below is what the spring pin looks like


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## buried (Jan 4, 2014)

Rockproof said:


> So you think you sheared the spring pin into 3 pieces? At this point you believe 22 is rotating around 21? Those pins are usually high tensile steel and not prone to breaking...but again, anything is possible.
> 
> Just so we are on the same sheet of music, when you depress the left drive clutch lever, the cable on the right side is not tensioning the arm and pulley against the drive belt (must remove the belt cover to observe)?
> 
> Btw, below is what the spring pin looks like



22 rotates freely around 21. No resistance at all, and it doesn't move 21 at all.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

Hmmm. Ok, can you center punch what's left out? If so, leave the center puch in and see if your drive now engages. Keep me posted buried...


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

If you do not have a drift punch small enough, a small finish nail/brad, with the point cut/ground off, will also work.


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## buried (Jan 4, 2014)

*Success!*

Thanks to everyone who pitched in on my problem!

The spring pin had sheared into three pieces. I was able to pull the ends out with pliers, but the middle piece was stuck in the shaft. I was rooting around in my toolbox trying to figure out what would work to drive the pin out, and my wife suggested a bike spoke. She is much smarter than I am, BTW. 

I cut a length of spoke about 1.5" long and used it to drive out the stuck piece while she pulled out on the handle to expose the hole in the shaft. 

I then took a length of spoke and replaced the broken pin with it. I lined up the holes in the handle and shaft, put the spoke through, and then bent the spoke around the bushing and twisted the ends together. Voila. 

The spring pin is hollow. I'm surprised they don't break more often. 

The spoke I used was a very high quality 15 gauge stainless steel spoke, like those used on a racing bike, not what you would find on a Huffy. A 14 or maybe even 13 gauge would fit better, but what I have will work for now. 

Thanks again for all of the assistance.


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## Rockproof (Jan 12, 2013)

Awesome buried. Glad you got that old girl fully functional again!


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## SVT551 (Feb 13, 2017)

Just had this happen and if you go on any site and look at the handlebar diagram of this model my "Number 2 on diagram" spring somehow disconnected itself. Pulled the covers, got it back lined up and the drive works again. Just thought I'd throw this in there. Looks like it was replaced at some point and is most likely slightly larger than the original which is no longer avail.


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## SVT551 (Feb 13, 2017)

BTW this thing is diesel. I inherited it from my father and have had few problems with it and it STILL starts after 1-2 pulls. It has to be 20+ years old.


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