# Adding a Remote Chute Deflector ???



## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Hi folks,

I've been thinking about adding a remote chute deflector to my 1999 Toro PowerShift as a convenience factor. I have searched the forums and it seems like a few folks have dabbled in such a modification.

Here is the chute deflector on my Toro . . .
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It is hinged at the top. I figure that I could add a spring along the top (Green arrow) and a manual retractor cable or a linear actuator along the bottom (Yellow arrow) to be able to adjust the deflector from up at the handle bars, similar to how current day machines are set up.
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I have found a cable assembly that is designed for a John Deere blower, but it looks like it could work for this chute as well . . . It is about $85 online.










The handle end could be up at the control panel/handle bars and it would be pulled and 'turned to lock' in order to lower the deflector to shoot the snow horizontally rather than upwards. When released the spring would bring the deflector back to its normal upward position.

Alternatively, I could use a 4" (12 volt) electric actuator to raise/lower the deflector rather than using a mechanical cable. This one shown below is about $55 on Amazon










I have a 60 watt alternator on my Toro that currently runs the LED headlight that I installed. I was thinking if I go the electric route, I could tap into that circuit for power.  And then use a 2-throw momentary switch up at the control panel to operate the actuator.

Any thoughts or experiences on adding a remote deflector control and which way to go (manual or electric  ) would be appreciated.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

A quick update . . .

I have decided to go with the mechanical chute control option and ordered the John Deere cable. Once it arrives, it will be a trip to the local hardware store and then installation of a spring and the cable.


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## paulm12 (May 22, 2015)

well the electric route would be much cooler, especially if you could control it remotely !! But the mechanical route should work well. I wonder if a hard stop is needed on chute itself to prevent over-reach (??) of the piano hinge.

tx


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

paulm12 said:


> well the electric route would be much cooler, especially if you could control it remotely !! But the mechanical route should work well. I wonder if a hard stop is needed on chute itself to prevent over-reach (??) of the piano hinge.


Yes, the electrical setup would be much cooler, but I figured it could be problematic on this machine, since the alternator is only 18 watts and the actuator requires about that much. A 60 watt alternator would be no problem.

So, I decided to go the manual route. The chute currently has a slotted channel & fastener to restrict the amount of deflection and also provide resistance. I plan to loosen the fastener a bit to provide little resistance yet still regulate the maximum amount of deflection.

I'll have to match the amount of travel that the cable is capable of to the geometry of the mounting on the chute itself. It shouldn't be too difficult. In my research so far, it looks like many chute deflector setups use a spring to bring the deflector to the full 'up' position (longest/highest throwing distance) and the cable to bring the deflector to a downward position.

I'll post a few pictures as I go . . .


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Here are some pics and design sketches that I have been working on . . .

Here is the channel that limits the movement of the deflector. As with most of this style, it provides friction so the deflector stays put when adjusted by hand.
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I will loosen the hardware so that the deflector moves freely, but is still captive. Here is the deflector in the downward position.
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Here is the design concept that I am working on. I'll need to work the geometry a bit once I get the cable to make sure that the retraction spring has ample leverage to raise the deflector from the downward position.
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I should have the cable later this week.


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## LouC (Dec 5, 2016)

Ted, there's your great graphics again. It's Lou from Iboats. I loved that chart you made of my compression test results lol. 
Can't wait to see your finished product. I just replaced the paddles, scraper and belt on my old Toro 3000 single stage 2 stroke. I was thinking of upgrading to a bigger single stage but like the light weight and simplicity of the Suzuki 2 stroke machine. Smoky but simple lol.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

You might consider mounting the stand off arm for the spring closer to the hinge and arc it downward. That would give you more clearance for the body of the spring.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Just wondering if you could mount the spring on the side of the chute, like my Ariens is??


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I like the electric idea. But interested in how you do this as it'd be a nice addition to both my PS. Can't understand how this isn't standard at least on the 1332 ???

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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

tpenfield said:


> Here is the design concept that I am working on. I'll need to work the geometry a bit once I get the cable to make sure that the retraction spring has ample leverage to raise the deflector from the downward position.


Here's what the Honda HSS chute deflector spring mounts look like if that helps...


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

LouC said:


> Ted, there's your great graphics again. It's Lou from Iboats. I loved that chart you made of my compression test results lol.
> Can't wait to see your finished product. I just replaced the paddles, scraper and belt on my old Toro 3000 single stage 2 stroke. I was thinking of upgrading to a bigger single stage but like the light weight and simplicity of the Suzuki 2 stroke machine. Smoky but simple lol.


Hi Lou, Yes we northern boaters do need to find things to expend our 'energy' on during the winter months. I have considered a 2-cycle machine now and then, or even a twin cylinder set-up. I think you tend to get less snow in your area than in MA  . For me a 2 stage machine fits the bill.


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## LouC (Dec 5, 2016)

Hey Ted, 
There have certainly been years where I wished I had a 2 stage, the reason why I’ve never bought one is a lack of storage space in our 1940s era garage and narrow driveway (boat stored in driveway). Some years we get a lot of snow some years very little the conditions have to be just right to get a big storm here. I have thought of putting a lightweight plow on our old ‘98 Jeep and may do that at some point. Storing the boat at home has saved a lot of money over the years so it’s a compromise I can live with. And now we have much more powerful single stage machines which is a good option for many. The Toro 821 had a 252 cc engine and about 8 hp.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks for the pictures and videos, guys.  

Here is my latest design modification. 
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My plan is to mount everything on the side of the chute and extend the chute mounted bracket as shown so that the spring still has leverage over the deflector in the down position. Not sure what the best side of the chute to mount the apparatus on would be . . . left or right  . . . as you look forward from the handle bars.

I'll have to see what makes sense once I have the cable in hand. The cable will probably feed down the left side handle bar and along the left side of the engine where the carburetor 'heater box' is located.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

tpenfield said:


> Thanks for the pictures and videos, guys.
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> Here is my latest design modification.
> .
> ...


Might want to reverse the way the cable connects. I know Ariens originally put the cable from the bottom like that and had issues with them freezing from water dripping down into the cable. Reversing the direction and putting the loop on the top and the end sticking out of the bottom fixed it.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Update:

I have reworked the design a little bit and bought the hardware needed for the installation.

Here is the latest design. I had to figure in the spring length and elongation, so the spring would not be over stretched.
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Here are a couple of pictures of the actual installation.

Up position:









Down position (not fully down)









The spring tension needs to be a little bit higher to reliably raise the deflector. I may take a little bit out of the spring so that it stretches more, or get a shorter spring 

Now I got to work the control end of the 'system' and figure out the best location at the control panel.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Quick Update:

I did some more work on the chute deflector by routing the control cable back to the handle bars. I figured out a best way to feed the cable and still allow free turning of the cute. Then I mounted some cable clamps to keep the cable secured.
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I'll make the handle more permanently mounted at the handle bars. In my testing so far, it looks like the 'twist-to-lock' feature of the control cable is not really going to work out. The handle easy twists the other way and the deflector retracts back to its upright position. 

Soooo, I plan on filing some detents in the plunger of the handle and use some sort of a spring latch to keep the deflector handle in place at some set deflection positions. . . . Probably the best I can hope for.

The spring is a little bit light, but I could not find a suitable replacement so far. I may just take about 1" of coil out for the spring and re-shape the end loop.


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## tpenfield (Feb 24, 2015)

Finished . . .

I figured out a spring & detent system for the chute deflector cable handle . . . 










I filed a series of indentations in the handle plunger and made a spring device (thingy) that wraps around the plunger so that the plunger stops at the detents.










You turn the handle to loosen and the plunger acts like a cam to open the spring thingy a wee bit allowing the plunger to move.

I cut a total of five detents, which should give a decent variety of deflector angles. Here is another picture of the plunger held by the spring thing at a full down position.









A few action shots . . . 








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I also took about 1" of free length out of the spring, so it provides more lifting tension/force on the deflector.

Here is a quick video of the deflector in operation.


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