# Discharge chute problem John Deere 1028e



## Don Butler

The power driven discharge chute goes to the left very well, but won't go right.
I took off the chute and the gear and pinion, expecting to see something there, but it all looked good.
Anybody know about this?

Don


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

It would be helpful if you posted the actual model number as used to buy parts for it.

If it's an electric chute it's likely the switch went bad. The motors are like a cars power window motor and go up and down by reversing the current. If the motor works in one direction it's likely the fuse, wiring and motor are good and it's just part of the switch or joystick that's failed.
I'm thinking yours has that little red joystick controlled chute ??
But you also want to look under the switch to see if maybe a connector came loose too ??


----------



## Slick

Don, I'm battling the exact same behavior on my 1028E. There isn't much that could be defective from looking at the mechanism. It's probably either the switch, as Kiss4aFrog mentioned, or the wiring harness that leads from the switch down to the harness that connects to the chute itself. 

I'm going to start by ordering a new switch, and also the wiring harness if it isn't outrageously expensive. 

The electric chute is a great feature on this snowblower, but when it's not working it makes trying to snowblow a huge pain.


----------



## Big Ed

Do you have a Multimeter?
Check the switch for continuity?
Cheaper than buying a switch.


----------



## Slick

Big Ed said:


> Do you have a Multimeter?
> Check the switch for continuity?
> Cheaper than buying a switch.


Believe it or not, I don't. It's on my "to buy" list, though. 

I know I have a short in either the wiring or the switch. If I wiggle the wiring harness plug connector & wires while holding the switch to the right, the chute will eventually suddenly start to work and rotate to the right. 

The actual connector is a female 8 slotted connector that plugs into the metal spades on the bottom of the switch. The wires from the harness plug into the internal spades inside the connector.

It's possible that one or more of the wires inside the connector are losing connection with the internal spade, but it's difficult to do much troubleshooting when it's -10 degrees outside and I've got 10" of fresh, wet snow to clear. 

If I do run out and buy myself a multimeter, would I just be checking for continuity of the switch itself, or the wires, too? 

For checking continuity of the switch, if all 8 spades of the switch show continuity, that means the switch is good, correct? 

Sorry for being such a noob with electricity.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

_*For checking continuity of the switch, if all 8 spades of the switch show continuity, that means the switch is good, correct?

*_Absolutely NO. When you move the switch to one of those positions then you should have a closed circuit, continuity or zero ohms. But that switch is wired to reverse current so it can be tricky what should be closed and open.

Where you say you have a short, no. It's important to get the terminology correct so you don't confuse someone and they don't confuse you. You have an "open" circuit. The electricity does not have a complete path. A short will blow a fuse in most cases as it allows too much current to flow back to the source. An open is exactly what happens when the switch is in the "Off" position or a wire came loose or a wire is broken. No electricity can flow in the circuit. That is what is happening to you. When you wiggle the wires you are either making contact inside the switch or with the wiring completing the circuit.

I'm just trying to figure out how to explain the way they reverse the power and ground to reverse the motor. This is NOT your exact model but it gives you an idea. Are there six wires leading to that switch or are there eight wires in the connector itself !!


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

A little more coffee . . . To test the switch and I'm *GUESSING* yours will be wired the same you need to unplug the connector and set a meter on continuity. Some will actually have a built in buzzer and that's nice as you can concentrate on making the connection and don't have to pay attention to the meter.

The four wires on the left (yellow brown blue green) should have continuity to the ground (black wire) when you are not pushing the switch in any direction. Then you need to push the switch in one direction only and that one terminal should have continuity to the positive spade (red wire). One at a time, each direction, one terminal only will have continuity.

Easier done than said !! 

Yours is fairly easy because you know everything else works so you know the red wire leading to the switch is good and it's getting enough power because the chute words in other directions. Same for the black ground wire, you know that's good for the same reason. So it's likely a switch, maybe the spade connector and even one broken wire in the harness but it's likely the switch since it gets all the use and the wiring mostly just hangs there.

Looking at the diagram wiggling the wires shouldn't make it work unless it is in the switch you're making a connection as it's using the same two wires to go right as it would to go left. Only change is inside the switch at the contacts !! You could likely save the money for a meter and just get a switch if yours is wired with six too.


----------



## Slick

Thank you for setting me straight on the terminology. I agree, everyone must use the correct terms or confusion ensues! I'm an IT guy, so this applies to my expertise as well. 

Anyway, I was wrong in stating that the switch has 8 prongs or blades. There are only six. Here's a couple of pics of the switch itself. 




















I don't remember the configuration of the wires in the harness, though. I'll take a pic of them tonight when I get home from work, unless I can find a wiring schematic online. 

I sure do appreciate the help. 

Edit: I agree on the switch being bad, as it makes the most sense. It does get quite a workout during an average snowblowing session.


----------



## Mr Fixit

Multi wire plugs give a lot of trouble in electronics. Each spade has a tiny tooth that dictates the depth spades sits in the Molex connection. Bend that tooth back and you lose! Unless a harness is perfectly anchored so no movement occurs, one spade/wire will be asked to support the weight of the harness. The harness should be anchored by a wide strap, less then one inch from the plug.Zip tie is not enough. I don't have a pic to show you. 
For now, to prove an OPEN or failed connection, try using a fine allen key to make each wire securely plugged in one at a time, by pushing each spade inward. 
The second issue is if the crimp was a poor job and wire is poorly in contact to the spade. Special tool is needed to remove wire spades, crimp, for Molex plugs. 
Often a new harness proves just as poor eventually if same workmanship occurred. On a vibrating unit, or physical movement of the harness, the tight anchoring must allow zero movement.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I was thinking the "Joystick" style where it's up down, left right. This is strictly rotation isn't it ??
If it is it's a bit easier to diagram and test. Once again I think it's going to be the switch.
.
This is just a common wiring diagram but usually this is how they build a momentary double pole (hot and ground) double throw (On-off-On) switch. A single pole single throw would be like a household light switch. It's one wire in and out and it's only off and on.

If you take the switch and mentally connect the + and - to the lower contacts you have negative on the left and positive on the right going to the motor. If you go up then inside the switch the wires cross to the other side and coming out the bottom you have it reversed, positive on the left and ground on the right. It would only be a four wire system.

This isn't your snow blowers wiring but it is how they wire power windows on cars, it works great, it's easy and cheap to do so it's likely they copy it for blowers 
.
.








.
Thank you for understanding about terminology. Sometimes it's not that important but if you're working with wiring I think it is so I'm not causing you to damage something by not being clear.


----------



## Slick

Mr Fixit said:


> Special tool is needed to remove wire spades, crimp, for Molex plugs.


Do the big box stores(Lowes, Home Depot, et al) sell that special tool? Is there a name for said tool? 

I ordered a new switch which will arrive in a few days, but if I could source that special tool locally, I could at least rule out the harness as the problem.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

From the back of the switch, that isn't going to be a Molex style connector.

I know they use them coming off the engines stator usually.






Molex Plug | eBay


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

I have a couple of these from Thexton. Auto parts stores might carry them or be able to order them. Not positive they work on Molex but they seem to work on most.
.


----------



## Slick

Yehaw, it was the switch! The new switch works perfectly. 

Thanks again for all the advice, fellas.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

Life is good, now blow some snow in whatever direction you want !!


----------



## Big Ed

Slick said:


> Yehaw, it was the switch! The new switch works perfectly.
> 
> Thanks again for all the advice, fellas.


I was going to say that when I searched for the switch I came up with a 6 bladed switch too? 

As far as a multitester I would get one anyway. I have saved some of my appliances with the tester. It is easier and cheaper replacing say the thermal switch in a dryer then buying a whole new dryer. Or oven parts or whatever.
If the switch doesn't have continuity it is bad. A simple test will confirm it, and if it is good just move on to the next part. Cheaper then buying a part and then finding out that you still have the problem. Just saying.
They don't cost that much?

And if you want to learn how to use one just Google it, there are tons of how to videos and instructional write ups on this on the net.


----------



## Slick

Big Ed said:


> I was going to say that when I searched for the switch I came up with a 6 bladed switch too?
> 
> As far as a multitester I would get one anyway. I have saved some of my appliances with the tester. It is easier and cheaper replacing say the thermal switch in a dryer then buying a whole new dryer.


Funny that you should mention the thermal switch on a dryer, as I just had to replace one on my dryer earlier in the winter. All the lint had plugged up the fan chute, and triggered the thermal switch. 

I used google and youtube to learn how to become a Maytag man! 

For sure, a multimeter is tops on my list.


----------



## DCRox

I have the same problem on my John Deere 1028e. The discharge chute will only turn in one direction. It looked like the switch was good, i measured the voltage going to the chute motor and it measures +13 volts when i have the switch in one position and it measures -13 volts when i hold the switch in the other direction. So i ordered a new chute motor. I installed it today and i get the same results, it only turns in one direction. Could it be that i received a defective part? Or could this be a switch or a power problem?


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

If it works in one direction but not the other it's more likely to be a switch problem. 

The motor turns one direction or the other only because the DC power is reversed. If the motor works, it should work in both directions so it's not the place to start.

The switch is what reverses the current so it's much more likely to be the problem. If you can find out where the wire from the switch goes to ground, unbolt it and check for 13 volts with the wire disconnected when the switch is in both left and right turn position you'll likely only see power with the switch in one direction only. That would indicate a bad switch but I'd also make sure you're getting good contact at the connector on the back of the switch and it's clean.


----------



## DCRox

Thank you! I think you are correct that it is the switch. A friend connected a power supply to the motor and confirmed it works in both directions. The switch contacts look good, so now, as recommended, I will try checking the switch voltage with the ground disconnected.


----------



## roygm22

I came across this thread...and I was having the same problem with the chute control switch...it is not the switch .... or at least I suspect most of the time it is not. I had the same issue...its the way its made, not very well....see attached video from utube though it is for a different model, its the exact same style chute. Very flimsy build but I fixed it (twice) since I have owned this snowblower...hope it helps someone in the future.


----------



## sbkenney

RoyGM25,
Thanks for the link. I'm having this problem right now. And, this appears to be the fix. Always start with the simplest fix first. This is a fairly new thrower so the deformation of the switch contacts looks like the culprit. I had the switch in my hand while reading your post and did the fix. Although the switch design is not the best, the design does allow for an easy fix without buying a new switch. I'll post an update tonight when I install it and see if it works. Thanks!


----------



## skutflut

Slick said:


> Yehaw, it was the switch! The new switch works perfectly.
> 
> Thanks again for all the advice, fellas.


Now keep that new switch dry so it doesn't happen again. Perhaps you can get a little umbrella to install over top of it :icon-hgtg:


----------



## sbkenney

*This was a great fix*



roygm22 said:


> I came across this thread...and I was having the same problem with the chute control switch...it is not the switch .... or at least I suspect most of the time it is not. I had the same issue...its the way its made, not very well....see attached video from utube though it is for a different model, its the exact same style chute. Very flimsy build but I fixed it (twice) since I have owned this snowblower...hope it helps someone in the future.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iT7cNDL2wsA


This fix worked perfectly. Fixed it in 5 minutes at no cost. Better metal could be used inside the switch. But chute works perfectly now. Thanks again.


----------



## Kiss4aFrog

:welcome: welcome to the forum Roygm22


----------



## jack01sci

*You can fix the switch!!!*

Hi Don: Don't know if you're still monitoring. Switch is easy to fix. See the following Youtube. I just did it with my 1028E.

They won't let me post the link. Look up 1033 chute rotation switch.

The rocker contacts inside are bent away from normal due to use over time. Easy to bend back. Switch is the same as in the model shown in the youtube.

Jim


----------



## LBHGM1028E

DCRox said:


> I have the same problem on my John Deere 1028e. The discharge chute will only turn in one direction. It looked like the switch was good, i measured the voltage going to the chute motor and it measures +13 volts when i have the switch in one position and it measures -13 volts when i hold the switch in the other direction. So i ordered a new chute motor. I installed it today and i get the same results, it only turns in one direction. Could it be that i received a defective part? Or could this be a switch or a power problem?


I ran into that issue as well. Turns out that the switch, with normal use can arc across the contacts creating corrosion. The corrosion is a very good insulator and prevents current flow across one or more contacts. I took the switch apart and cleaned the internal contacts. Before I re-assembled it I spread a thin layer of NOALOX on the contacts and never had the issue again. NOALOX is a product made by Ideal (Part # 30-026). It is an antioxidant joint compound that helps to prevent arcing of electrical contacts. think here is a YouTube video out that that shows how to do what I described above.
Hope that helps.


----------

