# Troy Bilt Storm 5524: engine swap or replacement?



## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Hey all,

First of all the engine is a Tecumseh Snow King LH195SP-67514D. I've searched and found that this is a 5.5HP engine. The engine is completely screwed up. I had a repair guy take a look and said it would be better off to replace the engine or buy a new blower.

I have a few questions: (1) Can I swap in a bigger/more powerful motor with minimal work, and if so which engines would be compatible? I know some have said the Harbor Freight Grey Hound 6.5HP was a good, cheap buy; or (2) should I just replace the motor with a new one, same exact model? I know this is the easier path, but I would like more power!  

It really comes down to difficulty in the installation of a different engine. I'm quite handy, having done most maintenance on our cars. So I do know a thing or two about tools and such.

Most important thing is the shaft size right? Well here is a what I found: 
MTD Style Crankshaft #37842 - 7/8” Dia. x 2-13/16” with Keyway









Thank you ahead of time for any advice!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I have had good luck with Greyhounds. I replaced a 3.5 on a toro with the 6.5 and an 8 on an Ariens with an 11. Have not really had a chance to use the 11, but the 6.5 worked great last winter.

The 6.5 is a 3/4 shaft, so you will need new pulleys or a spacer.

The biggest thing is making sure your blower isn't using 2 separate shafts on the engine. A lot of the MTD designs use the crankshaft for the blower and the camshaft for the drive wheels. This causes the drive wheels to be spinning backwards and at half speed. One other thing to look out for is the Greyhounds are OHV and will stick out a few inches further on the left side from the operator position than the old LH models. This can cause a problem with the chute crank.

The 6.5 was the same exact mounting and shaft as the 3.5 it replaced so that was simple.


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks for the reply Shryp. Is there a way to tell if my blower is using 2 separate shafts without removing the engine (which would have to wait until I get home)?


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Well, there are two separate control levers, one to turn the auger and one to power the wheels. So is it safe to assume it's running on 2 different shafts?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

No, all new blowers have 2 levers. That has nothing to do with the shafts. You will have to remove the belt cover. It should be easy and only 2 screws. While you are at it, measure the crank to make sure it is 7/8" as your picture indicates.


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks again. I found a picture of the original engine online. Excuse me if I sound like I know nothing, but here it is and it appears as though there is only one shaft coming out of the engine:










I can attach a diagram from the manual if that will help you help me out. Thanks again!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If that is indeed your engine you will find it pretty easy to swap over. You will only have 2 potential problems. Shaft diameter and chute crank.

Did some quick looking online and it apears yours is a 7/8" diameter shaft. You will either need to buy 2 new pulleys for it, or get a sleeve to adapt 3/4 to 7/8.


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks a lot Shryp! I will go into this with confidence. Oh, and I've seen your Youtube video before I decided to find a forum to ask my question. I am impressed!

I think I will follow your lead with the chute crank!

And could you suggest a place where I can find the sleeve or pulleys? Would the local Autozone or Parts America stock anything like this?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I don't have any videos on youtube. I just linked to someone elses.

Ordered from here before:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/MowerPull.html
 
Bought some from this at the retail store:
Tractor Supply Company - Home

Amazon sells some.


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## 2cycled fruitcake (Oct 5, 2010)

maybe i'm overly cautious but............
before i would lay some bread down for a new engine...
get a second opinion about how screwed the current block is......
can prob get a 7or 8 horse to step that up, smallenginewarehouse has tecumseh replacements in 7&8 horse


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks for your concern! I do trust the mechanic as he lives in my neighborhood and we've known each other for 5 or so years. Plus he used to be the small engine mechanic at our local Sears before he retired.

I do want to step up to a larger engine, but the price is the concern. The Harbor Freight engines are pretty cheap especially the 6.5HP for $129. If possible, I'd like to keep the cost of a new engine under $200. Still looking at the moment!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Don't forget the 20% off coupon when you buy it.


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks for all the help Shryp. I just got the pulleys in the mail today and just finished the install of the new engine! It was pretty straight forward. Loud as **** too! I do have some adjusting to do.

The wheels will engage once I press the lever for drive but they quit turning. I am thinking maybe this has to do with the drive belt. It isn't as tight as I want it to be. The stock belt is 3/8" wide and 28 and 5/8" long. The new pulleys I have are 3" in diameter. It works perfectly with the auger as that belt is nice and tight. 

Any ideas, suggestions as to what I can do?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You could try a shorter belt or adjust the idler to tighten that one. Check the friction disc too.

That engine should be quieter than the Tecumseh.


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## BOSMECH (Dec 16, 2010)

Did you check craigslist.
I find engines on there all the time, some on complete units.
I then rebuild them before I install them, take me about 8 hours from start to finish installed.
I got a 12hp I/C ($20) for my snapper that had a regular 12hp on it that was shot now I have a good snapper RER mower for cheap and is mint also with a bagger system.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Shryp said:


> Don't forget the 20% off coupon when you buy it.


 The 6.5 is currently on sale for 109 dollars - 20% = 87.20 plus tax.


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Ah no! I didn't have a 20% coupon! I had a coupon for $109 for the engine. Oh well.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You can't use both coupons, but I think the 20% off would have been a bit cheaper. The prices fluctuate a lot. I used a $109.99 coupon for mine too I think.


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Ok, an update after yesterday's Noreaster. Thanks to all for the tips, advice, and such. When I got the blower back from the mechanic, it was missing all the pulleys and such. I left the parts there thinking I wouldn't need them for the new engine transplant. The drive belt was loose and there was no way to tighten it, which was why I asked. Shryp, good call on the idle pulley! I had to go through the box of the disassembled parts and found it. 

I added the idle pulley and was able to add tension to the drive belt and voila! The thing ran like a champ. I couldn't reuse the belt cover as the way the idle pulley mounts to the new engine gets in the way. I'm gonna cut out part of the belt cover and fiberglass it and shape it to fit over the pulleys. 

Anyhow, pictures are due and I will try to snap up some photos by this weekend of the machine. 

Oh, and another note. This engine is actually pretty quiet. I haven't had the old Tecumseh running since it was busted. I compared the noise from my neighbor's smaller, older blower and we agreed his was louder. So far the Greyhound 6.5 is a great engine.

One more thing, do you guys use the air filter or have you removed it? I've read that the air filter gets iced up so it would be best to discard it, but wouldn't all sorts of dirt and stuff get into the engine?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I left my filter in place and always said I would remove it if I had problems. I never had any problems. I also have an 11HP Greyhound mounted on a big Ariens that still has the air filter. Snow blowers don't have air filters because the snow keeps the dust and dirt away. Also there are no leaves and other stuff blowing around in the winter time. Just remember what happened last time you cut your grass and compare it to last time you used a snowblower. Completely different elements.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Shryp said:


> You can't use both coupons, but I think the 20% off would have been a bit cheaper. The prices fluctuate a lot. I used a $109.99 coupon for mine too I think.


 The price in the current circular is 109 and it wasn't a super coupon so you could have also used the 20% off


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## BOSMECH (Dec 16, 2010)

You are right about the air filters icing up but they have the heat shroud around the carb also so I really don't know if it matters with one on or off, but I do like that extra protection of having a filter.
Shyrp is right that there really is no dirt or garabage to get ingested into the engine during the winter.


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

The repowered snow blower!









Close up of the pulleys.









And this is what happens when you forget to replace the oil fill plug after checking the oil level, which is on the opposite side, and then start up the engine.









And the old engine.









Another view of the old engine.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Looks good. Are you able to use the other side of the idler for the drive or get a shorter belt so you don't need to modify the cover? Did the low oil sensor save the engine or did you turn it off in time? That reminds me of the outline of the people that happens in the horror movies when someone goes splat


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

Originally I installed the idler on the other side and the belt cover fit fine. But with the rotation of the belt the idler pulley loosened and the belt came off (3 times during the Noreaster!). The pulley's movement eventually tore through the belt cover so I knew I had to come up with a quick fix... I wasn't gonna go back to a shovel, my pride was on the line (especially with the wife looking on). So I mounted the idler pulley in it's current location as seen in the pics. With the belt moving clockwise it will keep that pulley where it is even under full load. I was so proud of the fix, I even cleared my neighbor's sidewalks!

Oh, the low engine oil works perfectly! It shut down right away. At first I thought I might have destroyed the engine. After refilling the lost oil AND replacing the cap, it started up on one pull!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I wasn't meaning on the other side of the engine. I mean put the belt on the other side like the impeller belt is routed.

Yours looks bolted tight. They usually are bolted loose with a spring pulling it towards the engine to tighten it.


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## HotChoc42 (Jan 6, 2011)

You know what? I didn't even think of that! Hmmm... if I do encounter the belt slipping once more I will try out that suggestion.


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## Ingersoll444 (Nov 20, 2010)

Thats a nice swap, looks good!!!


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

The idler for the drive should be moved to the other side of the engine and a spring should be pulling it towards the center causing the belt to be wrapped under the engine on the slack side. you do not want the belt on the outside of the idler pulley as you are losing contact area on the drive pulley that way.

If you look at the original manual for this snowblower it show show the correct location for the idler and the belt path. This engine should be configured the same as the original. 

carl


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

CarlB said:


> The idler for the drive should be moved to the other side of the engine and a spring should be pulling it towards the center causing the belt to be wrapped under the engine on the slack side. you do not want the belt on the outside of the idler pulley as you are losing contact area on the drive pulley that way.
> 
> If you look at the original manual for this snowblower it show show the correct location for the idler and the belt path. This engine should be configured the same as the original.
> 
> carl


I believe it is on the correct side of the engine, just the wrong side of the belt. (See how the auger belt is routed?)


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Shryp said:


> I believe it is on the correct side of the engine, just the wrong side of the belt. (See how the auger belt is routed?)


Shryp,

You are 100% correct, I just got done fixing my neighbors MTD which had a twin shaft engine and the idler is on the other side (it must have been stuck in my head) because the second shaft rotates the opposite way. 

All he needs to do is route the belt to the other side of the idler and attach a spring to the idler pulley bracket and the frame on the other side to keep tension pulling to the center. He should still have the correct spring from the original setup.

carl


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## Rob Junior (Mar 15, 2017)

Wish I could see these pics but cant open them, I have the same snow blower and need an engine swap!


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

The pic source may be long deleted, 6 yr old thread but from the reviews of the HF Predator it's almost a drop in replacement for the Tecumseh 4-6hp engines. As long as they are the single shaft engines. Only thing's will be longer studs to mount to the frame and possibly a adapter for the pulley.


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