# 38543 824 Powershift, 1989 model - or is it ...?



## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

Hello, all!


Just got myself a post season 824, and have naturally read all I could find about Powershift transmissions, bearing replacements, impeller mods, lube types and whats not. No doubt I'll be back with a slew of questions as I get to know the quirks and details of it, but for now I'm only wondering about one thing - the model year.


According to model and serial number (38543 9001054), and small skids at the far back of the bucket, it's definitely an '89. However, it has also serrated augers, that according to this forum were introduced in 1996. Perhaps retrofitted? 


Any thoughts?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*It is a 1990 Model year with Retro Fitted AUGERS from 96 on up.k:k:k:k:k:k:*


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

1990, cool. Thanks. 



Does that mean that the skid bracket welding issues on the '88 and '89 models, as mentioned in the brilliant history thread, would be resolved on this one?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Norwegian said:


> 1990, cool. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Does that mean that the skid bracket welding issues on the '88 and '89 models, as mentioned in the brilliant history thread, would be resolved on this one?


* Nope!!!!!!!!!!!! Them Thar side panels and skids you have on there now are NLA!!!!!!!!! *


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

This might help as well with parts.


https://www.partstree.com/parts/tor...er-shift-snowthrower-sn-9000001-9999999-1989/


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Or info on parts and availability straight from Toro: https://www.toro.com/en/parts

I usually use the factory site to look stuff up and then shop for best price and availability.

.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Is that starter set up for 220 volt operation? The solenoid and electrical connector look European. Or Scandinavian in your case :devil:


.


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

So, I've brought it back to my house and gone over it.

*On the positive side
*- starts easily and reliably, governor works well
- good engine oil color and level, PO claims to have changed oil regularly
- drive chain well oiled
- new drive engage wire
- auger engage wire works smoothly
- gear shifts are very smooth, no binding or 'gumminess'
- no significant rust, only superficial
- relatively new belts
- snow chains
- very good tires that hold the air
- no play in the auger bearings
- serrated augers!

*Challenges*
- impeller bushing in absolute tatters
- big longitudinal play in the auger drive shaft
- worn impeller and impeller housing, with large paddle clearance (1/4")
- immense drive chain play, at least an inch
- powershift lock maladjusted, will not free the powershift
- slight idle hunting
- fair amount of play/slop in the gear selector mechanism (bolts/bushings under the dash)

*To do, in order of importance*
- replace impeller bearing
- replace auger oil
- regrease transmission and if necessary replace input bearing
- adjust drive chain tension
- adjust power shift cable
- adjust, lube and tighten up gear selector, chute assembly, drive belt, auger belt
- check and if necessary (very probably) adjust valve clearance
- adjust carb/governor setup
- change engine oil
- install fuel filter
- fluid film the heck out of it


@Kiss4aFrog: This is the setup. I assume it is 240 Volts, as the blower was sold new in Norway. PO has not used it the ten years he owned it, nor did he have the cable. He did not even know about the Powershift function ...


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

So that has a battery start setup?????


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Norwegian said:


> So, I've brought it back to my house and gone over it.
> 
> *On the positive side
> *- starts easily and reliably, governor works well
> ...


* What in the Name of ZEUS is a Drive Engage wire. Is that something the over seas units get that I know nothing about???????????*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*Post some Pics of the inside of the impeller area. Because those impellers run tight to the cylinder walls. k:k:k:k:k:k:*


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Norwegian said:


> Hello, all!
> 
> 
> Just got myself a post season 824, and have naturally read all I could find about Powershift transmissions, bearing replacements, impeller mods, lube types and whats not. No doubt I'll be back with a slew of questions as I get to know the quirks and details of it, but for now I'm only wondering about one thing - the model year.
> ...


* I never noticed this before they either ran a different gear box in the early years. or It was changed out that explains why there are those serrated blades on there.k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k: *


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

@POWERSHIFT93,


With drive engagement wire I mean the one in the pic, just used the wrong name for it.

The impeller has seen quite some beating, I hope I'll be able to straighten the vanes some. There is also 3/16" longitudinal play in and out of the auger gear box - that can't be too good, or?


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

So, I took off the front end. The belt disc came right off with a crow bar and some light taps on the auger skaft. The augers also slid right off. The impeller needed some light heating, but only butane - no need to mapp it. 

Contrary to my belief, the impeller bearing had hardly any play at all, perhaps 1/32 or so. Flanges were both good. I'll replace it anyway, now that it's out, but it seems the belt disc was not fitted all the way onto the shaft, hence the longitudinal play that I mistook for bearing wear.

Auger end bearings had no play at all, and auger gearbox has oil in it (or some greyish sludge, anyway). Gaskets seems to hold up pretty well.

What do you think, any chance of bending or beating those vanes back in shape, or will they crack?


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

SimplicitySolid22 said:


> So that has a battery start setup?????


No, it's a 240V setup, missing a proprietary extension cord. I'll pull the starter and have a look inside, clean it if necessary, before I try to apply any voltage to it.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Norwegian said:


> So, I took off the front end. The belt disc came right off with a crow bar and some light taps on the auger skaft. The augers also slid right off. The impeller needed some light heating, but only butane - no need to mapp it.
> 
> Contrary to my belief, the impeller bearing had hardly any play at all, perhaps 1/32 or so. Flanges were both good. I'll replace it anyway, now that it's out, but it seems the belt disc was not fitted all the way onto the shaft, hence the longitudinal play that I mistook for bearing wear.
> 
> ...


*That is NOT THE RIGHT IMPELLER. The POWERSHIFTS Ran a 4 blade setup.*


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> *That is NOT THE RIGHT IMPELLER. The POWERSHIFTS Ran a 4 blade setup.*


I wouldn't know, but according to the parts links up above in this thread it seems indeed to be the 3 blade setup on this particular model year?

Any thoughts on bending it back into shape, or am I better off getting a replacement? Anyone happen to have a fitting impeller lying around in the garage, be it 3 or 4 blades?


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Norwegian said:


> I wouldn't know, but according to the parts links up above in this thread it seems indeed to be the 3 blade setup on this particular model year?
> 
> Any thoughts on bending it back into shape, or am I better off getting a replacement? Anyone happen to have a fitting impeller lying around in the garage, be it 3 or 4 blades?


* Well now just slap me silly with a rubber hose. I was wrong that impeller is now also NLA. So you just might have to brush up on your Blacksmithing skills. *


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

* If you go Ripping into that gear box you are going to need a tube of this. Because there is NO Gasket 4 it. https://www.autozone.com/catalog/co...om/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ptx/85420/image/ I just used AUTO ZONE Because I already had it Bookmarked. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k: *


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## groomerz (Feb 7, 2015)

Also those axle shaft ends look rusty pull the pins and wheels and grease those axles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

POWERSHIFT93 said:


> * If you go Ripping into that gear box you are going to need a tube of this. Because there is NO Gasket 4 it. https://www.autozone.com/catalog/co...om/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ptx/85420/image/ I just used AUTO ZONE Because I already had it Bookmarked. k:k:k:k:k:k:k:k: *


Thanks, it's good to know I don't have to worry about getting a new gasket. I believe I have a tube of liquid gasket somewhere.


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

groomerz said:


> Also those axle shaft ends look rusty pull the pins and wheels and grease those axles
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Will do, when I regrease the transmission. Hopefully I'll have some time to play around with it in the weekend, then I might just get to test it on the snow left in my garden. It's disappearing fast these days, though.


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## Sandman (Dec 20, 2017)

Norway runs 240 V 50 Hz for household power.


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

So I've pulled the impeller, and it wasn't too hard to straighten it with a large vice, an anvil and a large hammer. A coat of Hammerite and it doesn't look half bad. I'll put on a rubber kit and then it'll be good.

The Powershift failure was, as expected, just a matter of wire adjustment. Works smoothly now. 

The wheels was wrongly fixed in the outer axle holes, letting the bushings wander outwards. No rust and very little play, though, so now that they are correctly mounted they will work well.

No play in the transmission input, which is good news. The gearshift is smooth through all the gears. Chain adjustment was quick and easy, sprockets look good.

Scraper bar is unevenly worn. I'll grind down the high part for now, and see if I can find a replacement eventually. Plenty of adjustment left in this one yet, so it might work.

One thing I've noticed is that the engine will start quite easily when cold, with full choke and a couple of pushes on the primer bulb. It then runs well enough on full, gradually reducing the choke. On idle it backfires, hunts slightly and eventually dies. And then it is nearly impossible to start again, regardless of choke and gas settings. I'll get a new spark plug, adjust valve clearance and carb, and then we'll see.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Norwegian said:


> So I've pulled the impeller, and it wasn't too hard to straighten it with a large vice, an anvil and a large hammer. A coat of Hammerite and it doesn't look half bad. I'll put on a rubber kit and then it'll be good.
> 
> The Powershift failure was, as expected, just a matter of wire adjustment. Works smoothly now.
> 
> ...


* MAZEL TOV on That 1. :wavetowel2:*


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

Long day at the hockey rink watching the girls' tournament and doing my duty in the speaker box, but got a few hours to tinker with the beast afterwards.

Assembled the front and got it mounted at the frame, taking the play out of the auger shaft by moving the belt disk as far onto the shaft as it would go. All greased and moving slickly. 

Then the **** thing wouldn't start. Pulled myself silly, then checked the gas. Almost empty. Filled it up, still no luck. Got the occasional fire, but no run. 

So I pulled the heat box, the carb and the muffler, opened the breather plate and checked the valve clearance. .008 intake, .004 exhaust. I didn't want to take of the head, cause I don't have a new head gasket, so I adjusted the clearance quick and dirty by lifting the valves with a screwdriver and wedging a small flat file between the lifter and the valve stem. After quite a few strokes the intake is now .012 and the exhaust .008. Got it back together, pulled the rope, and ... nothing.

Then I checked the spark plug again. Somewhat weakish spark, even after adjusting the spark gap, so I borrowed the plug out of a Snapper with the HSK60 on it, and what can I say? Fired right up. No backfiring, no blubbering, just good, clean fun. Adjusted the idle as low as it would go, still running smoothly. Killing it, it would start again on idle with one pull.

So I took it for a spin on the lawn, throwing a foot of half frozen old snow several meters (and no impeller kit on yet either). Powershift works, interlock works, reverse holds as long as handle is pressed and releases as soon as the handle is released. Had to keep it short, being Sunday and all. Perhaps tomorrow afternoon. 

Those studded chains will have to go, though - they wreck havoc on my plaster stones. Not to mention my lawn. 😆


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

Oh, and I jury-rigged a mains cable to the starter assembly to possible save myself some pulling. Solenoid clicks upon turning the key, then the circuit breaker trips. Guess that starter has rusted solid from decades of non-use. Guess I'll have to open it up and have a gander inside one of these days.


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

With the new old plug we're back to one-pull-start. So I ran it across the lawn into the wet, half frozen snow that's been piled up by a tractor blower during winter. 

It just bit right into it. Consistent 20-30 ft throw to the right, and 15-20 ft all other directions. And that with a good 1/4" impeller gap. Drilled holes in the paddles before reassembly yesterday, so now I've only got to find me some reinforced rubber sheet.

The Powershift is even more awesome when it's used while blowing - sooo smooth and useful. I'll come to love it greatly next winter, methinks.


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

Changed the auger gear box oil today. There was enough in the box, but it hasn't been changed for a long time. Perhaps not ever - certainly didn't look too good. I replaced it with a nice mineral EP 80/90 propeller oil, which came in a handy squeeze tube. Easy peasy.

Turns out the starter motor is actually 12 volts, part number 33605. No battery tray, though, and I can't find a charge wire either. Anyone know what that's about? Were they sold with a transformer or something? The (Norwegian) manual I got with it clearly says 240 volts. Anyway, that explains why the house fuse blew. Good thing it didn't catch fire.


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

Finally found a suitable rubber sheet and made those impeller whisks, then Fluid Filmed the whole thing. Let it snow, I say!


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## Norwegian (Mar 21, 2019)

Norwegian said:


> Turns out the starter motor is actually 12 volts, part number 33605. No battery tray, though, and I can't find a charge wire either. Anyone know what that's about? Were they sold with a transformer or something? The (Norwegian) manual I got with it clearly says 240 volts. Anyway, that explains why the house fuse blew. Good thing it didn't catch fire.



Hooked it up to my yard tractor battery yesterday, and the starter works flawlessly after 30 years AND a couple of 240 Volt zappings. Gotta love Toro!

At full speed under load I did get a fair bit of popping and backfiring, complete with blue flames out of the muffler. Did the research in here, long story short - spark plug gap too large. Slight tap with a mallet and all good.


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