# HS1132 belts changed hydro working fine but not the drive lever.



## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

Hi Guys, I got a lot of great info from these forums and today I successfully changed out my drive belt and auger belt. Everything went surprisingly well, took me only a few hours. The puzzling thing now is, the belts are working but the drive belt seems to be always engaged. So the blower won't move with the Drive lever down but it moves with the hydro speed stick! The auger engages better than ever but I can't use my lever to drive only the speed stick works!

I checked the cables and the springs. the drive tension roller engages the belt but doesn't engage the hydro!

I don't know what to check for now?


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to SBF JaseG









I think you might be better served if one of the moderators moves this over to the Honda section as it might get more attention there.
One of the Honda guys will likely be able to help you out.


.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

was the blower working fine before you changed the belts?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Was it an OEM metric belt? 


22431-768-003V-BELT (SA-29)


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

The blower was working fine before the belt blew. We had a heavy wet snow and I pushed the blower too hard. The belt may have been tired and warn to begin with. I bought the belts from Honda here in town. As far as the functionality of the machine before the belt got toasted, It worked pretty much the way it should.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JaseG said:


> The blower was working fine before the belt blew. We had a heavy wet snow and I pushed the blower too hard. The belt may have been tired and warn to begin with. I bought the belts from Honda here in town. As far as the functionality of the machine before the belt got toasted, It worked pretty much the way it should.


like said what was the belt size you replaced it with? should be a SA29. the number is on the belt. otherwise it maybe have been installed wrong or something jammed up with spring or tensioner on install. maybe a picture would help if belt is a SA29 to see.

it wont be the first time a Honda dealer gave someone the wrong part


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)




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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

JaseG, where are you located ?? Maybe another member is near by, I have checked and don't see your location....

Did you compare the new belt to the one you removed?


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

I'm near Bathurst New Brunswick. The belt was shredded, completely broken.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

OK, thks, I'm in Ontario, so that won't work....Do you know the history of your 1132, have you had it since new? I ask, because some, like myself alter these track units so perhaps the belts are different. My experience the drive belts are usually the same. I guess if it was mine I would check the position of the belt from the top and if you can't see a problem, pull the auger asm, 10 cap screws off and check from the front.

Does your drive lever tension feel as it was before this started, ie the tension?

Stay Safe


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Rereading your first post.....you say it wont move with the drive lever?? well that's norm if the Hydro control lever is in the neutral or center position....

Normal operation would be to hold down the drive lever and control direction and drive speed by the Hydro lever...


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

yes, I know how it works. It moves forward and backward without depressing the lever. Like the lever isn’t even attached to the tension roller.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Does the lever move upwards if you are not holding it?

Did you have the tension arm with the 2 belt tension pulleys and the 4 springs off during your belt replacement?


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

contender said:


> Does the lever move upwards if you are not holding it?
> 
> Did you have the tension arm with the 2 belt tension pulleys and the 4 springs off during your belt replacement?


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

Hmmm... I didn’t touch any of that. The only thing I did was loosen the guide brackets. But did nothing with the springs.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

when you press the drive lever does it have pressure/tension on it...??

Looking toward the motor over top of the auger housing are both the belt tensioners on the out side of their belts??

Your posted pictures shows they are i believe...

Was the picture taken with the drive lever down, the tension pulley appears in the drive position.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

contender said:


> when you press the drive lever does it have pressure/tension on it...??
> 
> Looking toward the motor over top of the auger housing are both the belt tensioners on the out side of their belts??
> 
> ...


agree that the picture appears the drive pulley is engaging the belt. I have had this problem before. cant remember why. wish i could inspect in person. it's probably something easy. the belts are the right size for this machine.

i would check the springs. maybe one came off and the return spring doesnt bring back idler wheel.


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> agree that the picture appears the drive pulley is engaging the belt. I have had this problem before. cant remember why. wish i could inspect in person. it's probably something easy. the belts are the right size for this machine.
> 
> i would check the springs. maybe one came off and the return spring doesnt bring back idler wheel.


Thank you guys,I’ll work on this tomorrow.


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

It appears as though the drive clutch is always engaged. I checked the lever springs. The idler wheel is moving back and forth when I depress the drive clutch but to no effect. The machine will not move due to lever but will move when I push forward the speed stick (without) using the lever. This tells me the belt is too tight or the drive clutch is stuck “on”?


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Can you press the drive lever and at the same time, see if the tension pulley moves in at all ??
Can you offer, if the regular tension/pressure is on the drive lever??

The Driver Lever does not have a cable connected directly below the lever, but has a shaft that operates the drive cable over underneath the auger lever, can you watch that cable as you are pressing the driver lever to see if you have movement on the cable. ?? If that cable is seized with the pressure on the drive belt it would explain your symptoms.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Early on I believe you stated, your drive belt was shredded..... I have seen many auger belts shredded or broken, but never a shredded drive belt. I have a hunch that your current problem could be what caused the first belt to shred....

On your supplied pic, it appears the drive belt is tracking off center??

Page 3-12 ---3-13 , of my manual, discuss the adjustment on the drive belt etc...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

contender said:


> Can you press the drive lever and at the same time, see if the tension pulley moves in at all ??
> Can you offer, if the regular tension/pressure is on the drive lever??
> 
> The Driver Lever does not have a cable connected directly below the lever, but has a shaft that operates the drive cable over underneath the auger lever, can you watch that cable as you are pressing the driver lever to see if you have movement on the cable. ?? If that cable is seized with the pressure on the drive belt it would explain your symptoms.


what perplexes me is that the machine was working fine before the belt was replaced. so I assumed the cable was fine and its not good to assume. yes inspect cable action top to bottom and tensioner action.

Also previously mentioned a possible jam or a spring knocked loose . Have seen all kinds of this stuff when belts blow or come off. 

too bad we couldnt eyeball this in person.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

If the cable checks out okay he may have to remove bucket to get better access to the springs and tensioner.
Good eyes on the belt off center on idler wheel.
I had to rebuild a tensioner and replace all 4 collars that were worn out causing this problem on an old 828. but this would not explain the belt always being engaged.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

orang, have you every seen a drive belt he is describing?? without any damage up front which he hasn't described.

He maybe has, but i would have had the bucket off by now....

i need to remember my terms may be meaningless to others....

I can say after many years of being on the road to service equipment, people did not try to mislead you, but it took a very good tech to ask the proper question, that an untrained person would understand.....


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Unless the drive lever is compressed when the picture was taken, he must have struggled to get the drive belt on?? 

Yes viewing in person would probably tell alot. The shredded belt, catches my eye....auger yes but not drive unless the tensioner came apart...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

contender said:


> orang, have you every seen a drive belt he is describing?? without any damage up front which he hasn't described.
> 
> He maybe has, but i would have had the bucket off by now....
> 
> ...


That is why I very rarely go on mobile repairs anymore. The regular joe has a hard time explaining problem in a way I could understand. I would practically bring the shop with me but more times than not I did NOT have the tool I needed because there was more than one problem. More trips back to shop or have to load machine on truck and bring back.

I think the OP described the problem fairly well.But it did bring up more questions than answers. I have removed a ton of Honda housings so it wouldnt bother me to take off in about 15 minutes to get a better idea on what is going on here.

I tell people in my FB group to get another set of eyes in person on a problem like this. A neighbor or friend that is mechanical. Or another snowblower tech nearby. 

I have even brought machines to a dealer to ask for a mechanic to look at the problem for 5 minutes. I then buy the parts I need there or buy the whole crew a couple pizzas later on. That makes you popular. Now when I have a special question they let me go out back and speak to the head mechanic.

Maybe a SBF member lives nearby and can help out here. I wish I could. Have seen a lot of strange problems and especially like challenges. and learn more. 

picture shows how much easier it would be if bucket is off ( assuming not a cable or anything else obvious problem )


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

So, i ask you again, have you seen the drive belt on any of the HS family shredded to the point you can't get a measurement off it without seeing the tension asm or something else let go? I have had a few times were the auger bearing becomes non existing and throws the auger belt which in turn has got wrap up in the drive belt, things stop but generally the drive belt only has a nasty kink or something in it, not useable but you can compare it against your new one. Don't know. A few more answers would help.....


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

contender said:


> So, i ask you again, have you seen the drive belt on any of the HS family shredded


The only time I've seen that was when a friend installed the drive belt OVER the belt protector below the driven pulley.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

thks tabora.....


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

contender said:


> So, i ask you again, have you seen the drive belt on any of the HS family shredded to the point you can't get a measurement off it without seeing the tension asm or something else let go? I have had a few times were the auger bearing becomes non existing and throws the auger belt which in turn has got wrap up in the drive belt, things stop but generally the drive belt only has a nasty kink or something in it, not useable but you can compare it against your new one. Don't know. A few more answers would help.....


I have seen many Honda drive belts that are all cut up and shredded out just from normal use like 20 plus years old STILL driving the machine and I shake my head in wonder.

The owner just brought the machine in for service. I asked owner about drive issues and they said none. I always ask people when last time serviced? Half the time it's like 10-15- years or none. They almost always say something like
"if it aint broke why fix it ?" 

of course there are a lot of things that at issue after so long a time. belts , bearings , maybe a cable . adjustments of course , lubrication since everything is dry as heck . But the machine still works.

Honda's , usually older ones are very forgiving..

Hope this owner has an update soon. Always trying to learn new stuff or at least learn to ask better questions.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

orang ,thks for the comments, your experience regarding the drive belt, sounds familiar....


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

The belt was probably shredded as it broke and fell down into the machine as it was running. I did take off the bucket to replace both belts when I did it, following instructions from this website and a YouTube video. This is my second Honda snowblower of over 20 years and I've never had an issue before. 

When I replaced the belts, the bucket was off. I loosened the belt guards and it was very easy to install the belts. 

I checked the cables. The tension arm connected to the drive clutch engages the belt but with little force. This does not explain why the clutch is always engaged. Is the drive belt supposed to suspend loose over the pulley then only engage one the idler depresses on it? If so my belt is for some reason too tight and is always engaging the transmission.

So I guess my question should be, is there a Drive clutch adjustment needs that might cause the problem I'm having.

The Drive Clutch lever *IS *Attached to the tensioner lever with springs and does move when I depress the lever. The belt is always turning even when I release the Drive Clutch lever. So the Drive lever is doing nothing at this point. But, the snowblower is still able to move back and forth if I push the speed stick back and forth.

Does the Drive Clutch lever only function the Tensioner or does it have a function in the transmission?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JaseG said:


> The belt was probably shredded as it broke and fell down into the machine as it was running. I did take off the bucket to replace both belts when I did it, following instructions from this website and a YouTube video. This is my second Honda snowblower of over 20 years and I've never had an issue before.
> 
> When I replaced the belts, the bucket was off. I loosened the belt guards and it was very easy to install the belts.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update.

The SA29 is correct size for your machine ( 828-928-1132 )
NO the belt should not turn when handle is disengaged.

What puzzles me is that this machine was working fine before you changed the belts and that is why I did not think you cable adjustment would change.You could play with that cable adjustment to get the idler wheel away when handle is released?


I assume you looked for any jams. Is the auger brake free and clear underneath? That stops the auger belt from spinning when you release auger handle.

When you had the bucket off did any springs on the tensioner come off? Only reason asking is because each spring is a different size and I did have one owner switch the springs by mistake.

I probably mentioned this before or contender did and you probably already checked but want to ask again. with the belt cover off the cable is moving the idler wheel in to engage belt? you said a little. it should be more. not sure how much but the belt should be tight when engaged.

is the drive handle loose? there should be minimal play before the idler starts moving. this would point to a cable adjustment.

trying to cover all the bases here as we don't have eyes on the problem. I know it must be very frustrating.

too bad you couldnt post before and after belt engagement or a video.

my picture almost looks like yours but my belt does not keep spinning.


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

I have it all apart again and I don’t think it has anything to do with the belts, pulleys or the springs. They all seem to work. The issue is the transmission is always engaged. The only way to stop it it by putting it in neutral or releasing the transmission release lever.


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

How do you upload a video?


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

orangputeh said:


> Thanks for the update.
> 
> The SA29 is correct size for your machine ( 828-928 )
> NO the belt should not turn when handle is disengaged.
> ...


I can I send you a video. My belt is definitely always spinning.


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

My machine is 


JaseG said:


> I can I send you a video. My belt is definitely always spinning.


You said "The SA29 is correct size for your machine ( 828-928 )"

My machine is an (1132)


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

short video. Click on word short video to see the video.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Dont know much about hondas, but that belt looks quite a bit to tight!


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Jase,as stated before, the drive lever actual hooks on under the auger lever connection...
see if you can see anywhere the drive cable seems hung up or if its jammed, if you unhook the drive lever cable at the location where the drive lever operators it, see if the tension comes off the belt. shohould be simple without loosing anything, dont unhook the bottom end down by the pulleys cause thats tougher.
So with cable off see if the drive belt still spins.

To answer your question, all the drive lever does is tightens the belt to drive the hydro pulley, no other connect to the transmission.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

nwcove, you are correct that belt should not be spinning without the drive lever pulling on the belt tensioner...


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

jase, the 1132 also uses the same belt.

Yes the belt should rest loosely on the crank pulley and only spend when the drive lever is held down which moves the tension pulley to depress the belt.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JaseG said:


> My machine is
> 
> 
> You said "The SA29 is correct size for your machine ( 828-928 )"
> ...


ha, also right size for 1132. will change my post. thanks.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JaseG said:


> short video. Click on word short video to see the video.


@JnC

you may have to remove belt again to get a better look at things.


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

contender said:


> Jase,as stated before, the drive lever actual hooks on under the auger lever connection...
> see if you can see anywhere the drive cable seems hung up or if its jammed, if you unhook the drive lever cable at the location where the drive lever operators it, see if the tension comes off the belt. shohould be simple without loosing anything, dont unhook the bottom end down by the pulleys cause thats tougher.
> So with cable off see if the drive belt still spins.
> 
> To answer your question, all the drive lever does is tightens the belt to drive the hydro pulley, no other connect to the transmission.


Okay I unhooked the cable from the spring but the wheel still touched the belt. To me it feels like the belt is too tight?


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

The problem is too much tension on the drive belt, not inside the hydro unit, if you remove the top end of the cable or take the belt off as orang suggest the hydro pulley will not be spinning unless you wrap a nylon around it... By taking the belt off may you will see the tension pulley mechanism has rotated further than it should have...


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Yes, the tensioner has got disconneted some how...tie the end of the spring off to something so it doesnt come onhooked.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

I dont want to ask, but you did say you didn't remove nothing on the tensioner asm. remove the belt totally and then you will see the hydro pulley will stop..


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

Is there a way to adjust the tensioner arm?


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

contender said:


> I dont want to ask, but you did say you didn't remove nothing on the tensioner asm. remove the belt totally and then you will see the hydro pulley will stop..


I removed the belt and the hydro pulley did stop. So the belt is too tight from drive pulley to hydro pulley even when the tensioner is not engaged.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

page 3-12 and 3-13, in my manual has the adjusts, do have the manual??


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

contender said:


> page 3-12 and 3-13, in my manual has the adjusts, do have the manual??


I do not have the manual.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

sorry for the poor quality...


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

If, you still have the belt off and the cable unhooked, will the tension pulley move closer to the side frame than it was in your first pic??

On page 3-13, you notice the belt # shows SA27, that is for a HS724, but this adj is the same...


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

JaseG said:


> Okay I unhooked the cable from the spring but the wheel still touched the belt. To me it feels like the belt is too tight?
> View attachment 175249





JaseG said:


> Is there a way to adjust the tensioner arm?


the tensioner arm if we are talking about the part that controls the idler wheels does not have an adjustment . It only works on springs. 4 springs. that is why I asked if any of the springs came off when you changed the belts. some people have put the wrong springs on in wrong place. all 4 are different sizes.

also the ends have to be put in the correct hole or correct spot on tensioner.

one other question: when you replaced the bottom belt guide did you leave a gap between the wheel and guide or is it snug up? It should not be up snug but a gap that is not big enough for the belt to come off. 

There are only several components to this whole system ....cable, springs, belt , belt routing . tensioner.


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## WrenchIt (Dec 6, 2020)

Nothing for three days? Maybe the OP is working and doesn't have time to work on his snowblower during the week? 

It seems to me that the belt is too tight, period. It engages both pulleys and drives the machine forward or back without the idler applying pressure. Since the distance to the upper and lower pulleys is not adjustable, either this particular machine takes a different belt, we have the wrong pulley installed, the lower belt guard is pushing the belt into the transmission pulley, (as @orangputeh said) or the belt is somehow defective (manufactured out of spec). Bottom line, without the tensioner pressing on the belt, it is transmitting power and not slipping.

When I ordered new belts for my HS828, one of the two that arrived was the wrong belt; it was 1" too long. Maybe this machine takes another belt. I don't know, but the answer seems to be staring us in the face. The tensioner has nothing to do with the problem


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

WrenchIt said:


> Nothing for three days? Maybe the OP is working and doesn't have time to work on his snowblower during the week?
> 
> It seems to me that the belt is too tight, period. It engages both pulleys and drives the machine forward or back without the idler applying pressure. Since the distance to the upper and lower pulleys is not adjustable, either this particular machine takes a different belt, we have the wrong pulley installed, the lower belt guard is pushing the belt into the transmission pulley, (as @orangputeh said) or the belt is somehow defective (manufactured out of spec). Bottom line, without the tensioner pressing on the belt, it is transmitting power and not slipping.
> 
> When I ordered new belts for my HS828, one of the two that arrived was the wrong belt; it was 1" too long. Maybe this machine takes another belt. I don't know, but the answer seems to be staring us in the face. The tensioner has nothing to do with the problem


I'm hoping he comes back as I have a ton of time invested in this thread. May even use my frequent flyer miles and fly where ever to inspect in person.


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## JaseG (Feb 5, 2021)

WrenchIt said:


> Nothing for three days? Maybe the OP is working and doesn't have time to work on his snowblower during the week?
> 
> It seems to me that the belt is too tight, period. It engages both pulleys and drives the machine forward or back without the idler applying pressure. Since the distance to the upper and lower pulleys is not adjustable, either this particular machine takes a different belt, we have the wrong pulley installed, the lower belt guard is pushing the belt into the transmission pulley, (as @orangputeh said) or the belt is somehow defective (manufactured out of spec). Bottom line, without the tensioner pressing on the belt, it is transmitting power and not slipping.
> 
> When I ordered new belts for my HS828, one of the two that arrived was the wrong belt; it was 1" too long. Maybe this machine takes another belt. I don't know, but the answer seems to be staring us in the face. The tensioner has nothing to do with the problem


Hi guys yes you’re right I’ve been very busy working. I’ve followed the installation instructions to a t. Ti specifically made sure the belt guard was not touching. In fact I unbolted one of the 10mm bolts and left it hanging to test the belt. I too have come to the conclusion that the belt must be defective. I’m going to measure the distance on my pulleys to be sure they are correct. Nothing else seems to be out of place. I’ll take the tight belt off and bring it back to Honda to see if we can compare it with another belt.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Jason , I watched your video on you tube and it appears to me the belt is too tight meaning it is the wrong size.

I know it says 29 on the belt which is the right size. Is this a OEM Honda SA29 belt?

I have replaced hundreds of belts and the SA 29 should have some play in it. a couple inches . Your video shows very tight with hardly anyplay.

I would try another SA29 belt. Or was this blower ever modified with the pulleys or bottom wheel? are they stock.?

anyways the video is pretty obvious to me. I tried commenting but it was turned off.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Looking at your video, your belt is way too tight when the drive handle is released. It should be much looser than it is in the video.
The belt is constantly 'Dragging' or is still engaged when the tensioner is released.
It is either too short, has the wrong 'V' angle or something moved out of place like the transmission came loose and moved causing tension on the belt or the engine is raise up too high, unless it is the wrong belt.
Or as Orangputeh said, you might have the wrong pulley on the engine or transmission. Either one could be too big a diameter causing the extra tension on the belt.
Was the pulley ever removed from the engine and installed backwards?
Like the auger pulley is driving the transmission instead of the transmission pulley.
Check to see if they are the same inside diameter, externally they could be the same but different internally and the groove could be different causing a ride height problem, especially if there are 2 different size thickness/width of belts between the auger and wheel/track drivel transmission.
If the engine pulley was removed and installed backwards the belt might not drop down in the groove far enough or be on a larger inner diameter that would cause that.
Another thing is to check and make sure the other 'Release' spring is attached. That spring pulls the tensioner pulley away from the belt when the handle is released.
There are 2 springs on the tensioner, 1 pulls it away from the belt, the other connects to the drive cable mechanism to pull the tensioner into the belt.


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