# early 1962 Ariens 10M-L35 Sno-Thro impeller/auger bearing replacement repair



## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

when I engaged the auger on this Ariens 10M-L35 blower, it made a steady clunking noise as the impeller turned. At first it sounded and looked like another bent impeller shaft. upon removing the top belt access cover, something didn't look right with the rear impeller bearing. at first I thought it had an engagement spring that had come apart and broken, this is what I saw


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

these early machines come apart very easily, only TWO bolts on top, one on each side, and both halves split apart pivoting on a shaft across the bottom of the machine, left to right. nice setup. I really like this. obviously the engineers at Ariens knew WTH they were doing and designed it with service ease in mind. This is what separates a good machine, from a so-so machine !! a well thought out design.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

upon pulling the chute assembly and inspecting the impeller bearing, I saw this


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

next removed the 2 clutch chuck set screws, the clutch slipped right off the keyway and key, and revealed this


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

*rut-roh !!*

removing the 3 bearing flange nuts and flange, revealed this. all the ball bearings were GONE from the impeller bearing, and fell out sometime in the past. The machine was being run with the innner race, laying on the outer race, with remants of the sides of bearing covers still there on the shaft, and the impeller shaft had fallen down and was rubbing on the floor of the impeller housing, and making the "clunk-clunk-clunk" noise. the machine was running in this condition.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

to pull the impeller/auger shafts assembly and gearbox, had to remove the upper strap support bolts, and the auger shaft bearing locknuts and flange hardware. later the strap can be loosened on the gearbox when the assembly is out of the chute.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

the impeller/auger/gearbox drive assembly was removed out the front, with the keyway still on it. the ball bearings being missing, allowed it to pass through what remained of the bearing, i.e. only the races.

had the bearing been intact, the keyway would have to be removed first.

upon removing the assembly, there's the inner race still on the shaft, and keyway.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

tapped the key out with a drift and screwdriver, and the inner race slipped right off. I wish they were all that easy ! (a similar repair on the Gilson 55012 required cutting the inner race off the impeller shaft with a torch last March)


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

here's what it was running for an impeller bearing


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

the impeller bearing was completely destroyed, but the 2 front auger shaft end bearings were intact. one side was rotating a little rough when the bearing was checked by spinning it in my hand, and it had a small gouge in the side cover plate. the other one spun almost like new. I kept them for spares. a local bearing/drives supply house had them in stock for $9 each. I bought 3 of them, figured now is the time to change them, as all 3 are the same part. it also makes the machine work smoother with less drag on the engine and throw snow further. here's the new bearing in the flange and what remains of the old bearing

I make it a habit to coat any bearing, even though they are sealed, with grease, and the shaft ends as well. the auger shaft bearings had rust forming on the outer race surface. anything not greased or oiled will rust quickly in the winter, the brine and salt they use on the roads is extremely corrosive.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

I also grease the flanges, as they were beginning to rust as well. the flanges and bearing sandwich were bolted back together in the chute housing.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

*a little setback...*

when checking the final torque on the flange nuts for the impeller bearing, a funny thing happened... one of the studs broke off 
I guess it's number was up, from the looks of things this bearing had been changed before...the hardware had some mileage on it. I removed the flanges/bearing again, looked closely at the studs, the other 2 were beginning to separate in the middle, and were about to break. 

these are not carriage bolts on the flange, they are flat head style or "elevator" type bolts, tack welded in 3 places on each head, to the flange. a replacement flange is available for $9 with the studs in it. not wanting to wait, I ground the heads off the studs, and removed all 3, and installed regular nuts/bolts. one replacement bolt from my hardware stash was a little longer, but no biggie...

with the broken stud replaced, time to reinstall the auger/impeller drive assembly.
the ends of shafts were greased, inner flanges must be sets on auger shaft ends first, before inserting the assembly into the chute


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

*in she goes*

the shaft/drive assembly was dropped into the chute, and the impeller shaft through the new impeller bearing


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

the inner bearing flanges have to be kept inboard of the chute when installing the assembly. this took a little finesse fishing the impeller shaft through the impeller bearing without seeing it, using the braille system, while lining up the 2 auger shaft ends visually w/inner flanges hanging from them. standing the chute straight up, gravity helps feed the assembly in.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

the auger shaft bearings were greased up, slipped on, outer flange bolted on, and finally the lock nut. outside grease was then wiped off.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

keyway was dressed with a file, tapped back on with ballpeen hammer, then clutch chuck slipped on.

set screws on clutch chuck were left backed out for now, there are 2 set screws 90 degrees apart, one contacts the keyway directly

notice the replacement longer bolts and nuts on impeller bearing flange, nuts are shouldered and serrated to grab and lock


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

blower and tractor halves were hinged back together. this is one slick setup. it pivots on a lower shaft in the bottom of the machine. only 2 bolts lock it up top

with only one pulley on the engine, no locking collar on the impeller bearing, and no pulley to remove/replace on the impeller shaft, these early single belt machines are MUCH easier to work on. the 2 bolt split assembly and bottom pivot shaft, make this a dream machine. the downside is, to move it around under power, the impellers will be turning. that means in summertime during maintenance like today, it can pick up a rock and toss it through a window, or hit someone. when I move it, I push it around in neutral. it pushes around easily, so the single pulley is not a big drawback.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

the 2 halves hinge up together flush, clutch cogs not meshed yet.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

2 top tractor/chute attachment bolts installed, one per side. the auger clutch cog was turned by tapping it with a long drift and hammer, then engaged by prying it back with a crowbar, to seat it into the engine clutch cog


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

the belt clutch was engaged, and engine turned manually with the pull cord, to index and access the clutch set screws for the auger side cog. they were turned in quickly by hand with allen wrench, then torqued tight with allen wrench held by vise grips. one set screw hole had a second set screw above the bottom set screw, I put that back in as well.


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

everything is ship shape down in the boiler room. after this picture was taken, the machine was turned on its nose, bottom cover removed, and drive gears and chain greased on tractor section. the friction disk and friction rubber wheel was also cleaned with gas on a rag. the bottom cover comes off easily with 2 small bolts, 5/16" heads. sorry no pics, didn't want grease all over the camera


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

top cover reinstalled, early Ariens reporting for duty, sir...


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

*final hot rod tweak*

whenrunning this machine prior, I noticed the engine seemed a little rpm limited, as if it should have revved higher at WOT- the governor spring looked stretched. the spring was in 2nd hole from top on governor arm.

Being a hot rodder and tuner from way back, I moved it to top notch, i.e. maximum tension and highest rpm setting. couldn't resist...

that ought to even things up a bit against my other 8HP Cadet and Gilson machines...gotta root for the underdog...


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

*zoom zoom*

*"now SING for me, my little Indian ! "*






pulled belt cover back off, to make sure everything is running true

governor spring adjustment seemed to work, engine has higher rpm at WOT. doubtful I'd run it wide open like that blowing snow, but the rpm is there if needed- for the thick stuff at top of driveway, left by the township plow

all the forward and reverse gears work. need to weld the clutch handle yet, it's cracked


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## greatwhitebuffalo (Feb 11, 2014)

this little machine looks like a shark from the front, all mouth and teeth...like it's saying

"outta my way, before I chew you up, and spit you out"

you would not want to mess with it...or maybe you would ?

it got manhandled and has my greasy paw prints all over it, will have to wipe it down with a gas rag, and pressure wash it again- other than the clutch handle weld repair, the dishes are done...

hopefully this thread is informative for anyone who owns one of these machines


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