# Garbage Find



## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

Hello all so I picked this up out the trash, It looks to be from the 80s but not sure. So the problem is when I pull the cord there is no resistant's, but it does recoil back. Now I assume that it did work up till that point, cause when I check the fluids its all clear and fresh, even the oil looks brand new. Also is this a good machine, and worth the fix of what people say it maybe? ANY info on this or manuals would be great. I love these old machine and would love to bring it to a roar again, thank you all.


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## The Q (Dec 19, 2016)

Any pictures?


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## EdwardC (Sep 26, 2016)

Pictures don't load for me. But, based on the lack of resistance when pulling the recoil, sounds like there is no compression. Might be a stuck valve, bad head gasket, no/loose spark plug, or worn piston.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

Seeing as though your pictures don't show,and even if they did,a make and model number from the chassis tag would be handy.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Are you sure the pawls in the pull starter are engaging? Unbolt the pull start housing and look at the back of it and you should see 3 plastic wings advance outward when you pull on the rope. If they aren't either they are just stuck and need a shot of WD40 or the spring is weak.


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## guyl (Jun 12, 2016)

No spark plug should be easy to check...


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

The Q said:


> Any pictures?


 I sent an email to admin. it wont let me something about a token. im still waiting to hear back sorry. but it looks to be a old craftsman drift breaker.


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

EdwardC said:


> Pictures don't load for me. But, based on the lack of resistance when pulling the recoil, sounds like there is no compression. Might be a stuck valve, bad head gasket, no/loose spark plug, or worn piston.


Well that sounds crappy. I was looking online abit and someplaces were saying a starter clutch is that a possibility or no?


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

guyl said:


> No spark plug should be easy to check...


 That wouldnt have anything to do with tension on the pulley


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

Mike C. said:


> Seeing as though your pictures don't show,and even if they did,a make and model number from the chassis tag would be handy.



I cant post, something about a security tag is missing. but heres the serial number 536.918300. hope that helps


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Again, are you sure the starter pawls are engaging? Did you take out the spark plug and see if the piston moves? If it does put a tablespoon of motor oil or Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinder as at may have sat for so long that the rings are just a but dry. Or as someone stated it may have a valve stuck in the open position and a few gentle taps MIGHT loosen it up but you have to take off the head to check. 

So far we don't know the make or model of the machine so no one can tell you if it's worth fixing or putting a new engine on, and we don't know your level of skill with mechanics tools, so we're kind of at an impasse here.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

jeep, email me your photos to:

sscotsman at yahoo dot com

and I will post them in this thread fr you.

Scot


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

I had that once where the fly outs on the recoil didn't catch. It felt super smooth super light. All I was accomplishing was exercising the spring on the recoil. Even without compression there is still some resistance as your moving the crank along. If you grab the T handle on the recoil with just the pointer and middle fingers as if you're holding a cigarette and casually move your wrist, if the rope moves effortless, then you know it'snothing more then movement of the recoil.


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

all3939 said:


> I had that once where the fly outs on the recoil didn't catch. It felt super smooth super light. All I was accomplishing was exercising the spring on the recoil. Even without compression there is still some resistance as your moving the crank along. If you grab the T handle on the recoil with just the pointer and middle fingers as if you're holding a cigarette and casually move your wrist, if the rope moves effortless, then you know it'snothing more then movement of the recoil.



Thank u all I will look at everything said. starting 1st with removing the spark plug.im pretty good with tools, thought ive never tinkered with a small engine. ill keep u guys posted thank u.


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## all3939 (Dec 21, 2014)

SNOWJEEPER said:


> Thank u all I will look at everything said. starting 1st with removing the spark plug.im pretty good with tools, thought ive never tinkered with a small engine. ill keep u guys posted thank u.


An easy way to spot movement of the piston is as you planned to remove the spark plug but then also inserting a standard number 2 pencil or the like into the cylinder and watch for any piston movement.


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Here are Jeepers pics..looks nice a nice find!


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

According to Sears,your blower was made in 1979 and code 536 means it was built by AMF/Murray.

The owner's manual complete with parts lists and drawings is available on their website free for download.

It's easy enough to verify if the pull starter is working by removing the four nuts that hold it to the starter shroud,pulling the cord and checking to see if the starter dog extends as it should as shown in the photos.

Dirt and old lube can jam the dog and keep it from engaging the lugs in the starter cup-the rope pulls out,the engine doesn't roll over.

For future reference:

Sears part number for your engine is:143.696102
However,finding parts for it will be much easier by usings Tecumseh's numbers:Model H70, Spec.Number 130205E

Side note:You might want to examine the side of the engine opposite the carburetor to check for cracks.If the block is cracked the connecting rod may have self-destructed-no connection between crankshaft and piston means no compression or piston movement.


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

Mike C. said:


> According to Sears,your blower was made in 1979 and code 536 means it was built by AMF/Murray.
> 
> The owner's manual complete with parts lists and drawings is available on their website free for download.
> 
> ...



Thank Admin for posting. And thank u
sir I will go check, and will use the pencil idea thanks Gents, ill keep u posted


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

It's flat head so just remove the spark plug and take a good bright flashlight inside the hole and look for movement of the valves as you pull the rope (directly under the light). You'll have to tilt the light toward the gas tank to see the piston, the piston is not directly under the spark plug hole. If the piston is not moving you could have some major problems, but could just be a sheared flywheel key. Let us know if the piston actually moves. If the piston moves you should see either valve move up and down in a sequence opposite each rotation. If one just sits there, (like the left one, exhaust) it could just be stuck in the guide from inactivity.


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

No cracks in the block that can be seen with the naked eye, so that's a positive...


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

That looks like it's led a nice cushy life. My money is on the starter rope, but it looks like the whole front shroud has to come off to see.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

How about you put it in low gear and press the drive/auger clutch levers while pulling the rope, you should feel resistance and the blower will want to move forward and the impeller augers turn a bit, if it happens the problem is the engine itself.
If it makes no difference on the rope pulling resistance, then your problem is on the starter rope system.


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

dhazelton said:


> .... My money is on the starter rope, but it looks like the whole front shroud has to come off to see.


Actually,no.The starter assembly comes off with four screws or bolts.It's a separate unit from the shroud.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

My vote, starter pawl malfunction. Unless you can detect the usual click, that it makes to engage the flywheel cup. If you can determine that, then it's a much deeper issue, like the valves, head gasket, or rod/piston.


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## topher5150 (Nov 5, 2014)

Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but does any thing happen when you use the electric starter?


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## Mike C. (Jan 28, 2016)

topher5150 said:


> Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but does any thing happen when you use the electric starter?


Personally,I hadn't given that a thought because he said he felt no resistance when he pulled the starter cord.I figured he was trying to troubleshoot that specific issue.


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Ah. Hard to tell from the photo with that top piece on.


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

topher5150 said:


> Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but does any thing happen when you use the electric starter?



I don't know if I used it right but nothing happen, do u just plug it in and push the button?


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## dhazelton (Dec 8, 2014)

Yes - ASSUMING it works.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Not a very helpful post, but it looks a lot like my old craftsman. Must be very similar vintage.
Sorry for the sideways photo.


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## topher5150 (Nov 5, 2014)

SNOWJEEPER said:


> I don't know if I used it right but nothing happen, do u just plug it in and push the button?


plug it in, and push the button. Just make sure it's a heavy duty extension cord


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## SNOWJEEPER (Sep 12, 2012)

Sorry been busy with school, and 3 jobs, but tomorrow I will be checking all the things you folks have mentioned cross ur fingers


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Sorry, coming into this late. That is one of the best style Craftman blowers Sears ever sold IMO. It's built like a tank and with an upgrade or two it will tear up most everything it's put up against.
I agree it's likely the recoil assuming the piston moves. Especially if it's the one with the plastic paws in them. Easy replacement if needed, I've changed a few over the years. Almost any Tecumseh recoil unit fits though some will rotate the rope position by 1/4 due to the mounting hole locations.
I've bought, rebuilt and sold over a dozen of these units over the years. They are very strong, durable units with only 3 issues which can be taken care of.
1 - the plastic bushings (if yours has them) on the auger and axel aren't available. I've provided a thread on how to change them to roller bearings. Other than the bushings, I've found or modified something for every part I've needed.
2 - the intermediate shaft shoulder bolts can work loose. If they do and used it can damage the transmission mounts. Pin them so they can't loosen and you're good. If the transmission mounts are damaged, I've plans for a fix that I've done that works.
3 - I don't care for both the auger and drive being controlled by the same control. I've designed a way to split those 2 apart into separate controls.


You get that blower back to running condition and you'll have a machine that will take on virtually anything you want and it will handle and last longer than anything you can find today. Personally one of my keepers is a 10hp 32" 3 stage I swapped out the auger housing for a 26" to fit through the garage door. It's done itself proud with what it can handle. Thing is, whether it's a 7 hp or 10 hp, other than the engine, everything else is pretty much identical between the same range of models.


If you're looking on rebuilding and modifying your unit. Send me a PM with your email addr and I'll send along some info on it. I also have a pdf on a 536-918300 owners manual if interested.


Paul


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