# HS1132 Help



## Bobami (Feb 21, 2016)

I was recently offered an older HS1132 Snowblower Circa 2005-2007 I think. I have always had older John Deere and Ariens “wheeled” snowblowers that I meticulously maintain myself. I have always been interested in track driven snowblowers so I accepted this machine for very little money. It’s in rather rough shape and I suspect has not been very well maintained But I am always up for the challenge of making old stuff nice again. I am an avid reader of this forum for a while and don’t remember posting anything but I NEED HELP with the following. First understand I have downloaded the owners manual and have read it.

1. I cannot move this thing without a tremendous physical effort. I have the transmission in release position but the tracks barely rotate when I push or pull. Manual doesn’t offer any help for troubleshooting this. Any suggestions on what I can lubricate and where it is located so I can at least move this around.

2. I have zero experience with hydrostatic transmissions. Manual doesn’t even mention how to change fluid? Where is drain plug and how much fluid does it require? I doubt this fluid has ever been changed

3. Surprisingly the engine oil appears very clean. I notice oil filler caps on both sides of engine? Is one for the transmission and one for the engine? Again manual doesn’t even identify filler on both sides just one side..

I am going to attempt to start this thing tomorrow. Gas tank is bone dry and clean. 

The augers are definitely rusted to the gear box shaft but that will be subject of another’s post I suspect if I can’t free them up.

Any help on my questions or other advice and tips about this machine are most appreciated.

Bob in MA


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Hey, bob, welcome to SBF and welcome from a fellow Masshole. 

1) The track machines are tough to move even when the lever is positioned to disengage as the transmission is still technically engaged. Older machine can use new bearings, new grease in the reduction gear box which helps with with moving the machine around but not by much.

2) The HST doesnt need to be serviced, Honda suggests to just check the level of HST fluid in the reservoir. 

3) The duel fill openings are the GX series design, both are for engine oil. 

4) If the augers are frozen onto the shaft then the first order of business should be freeing them up, lathering the shaft with some anti seize and putting everything back, a frozen shaft will deem the shear bolts useless and if you were to hit something hard it may end up damaging the auger gear box.


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## Bobami (Feb 21, 2016)

Thanks!

Is the maneuverability of these earlier models as bad as I have been reading about? Sounds like to turn these things 180 degrees is going to require some serious effort. I am no kid anymore but enjoy running a Snowblower. If this machine is to much for me I will end up selling it and looking for one that has the trigger steering system..


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

check the reservoir for your hydrostatic oil. it's on the left side down from the handlebar. if low, use only Honda hydro oil.

this beast is hard to move without the engine going even with no problems. so if you start it up, let it warm up and make sure the tracks are not frozen before attempting to engage the drive. 

I believe this model was built between 1997-2001. even though you say it is rough it may be worth the effort to refurbish. with a little work you can have a nice machine . depending on what your needs are this machine is good for the BIG jobs. they will turn ok if you use wide loops.

it only takes about 15 minutes to take the augers/impeller out. then you can separate the augers from the auger gearbox arms with some penetrating oil and maybe a crowbar. then clean/grind the corrosion off and put anti-seize grease all over before putting it back together. same with the impeller. new shear bolts . and check the side bearings. they are usually OK. i sometimes repack them with grease. 

you may have to clean the carb out first ( most of the time you can do this without removing it ) , also. most use gas treated with stabilizer/seafoam. new plug. lubricate all cables with motorcycle cable spray. lube/grease all moving parts, a few adjustments and you may be good to go. 

once you repair you can probably sell for a good price. business owners like these big boys for their parking lots or for commercial snow removal.

have any pics? i'm working on one right now.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

Bobami said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Is the maneuverability of these earlier models as bad as I have been reading about? Sounds like to turn these things 180 degrees is going to require some serious effort. I am no kid anymore but enjoy running a Snowblower. If this machine is to much for me I will end up selling it and looking for one that has the trigger steering system..



Honestly dont let the maneuverability put you off, its only difficult to move it when its dry, once their is a bit of snow/dusting on the pavement the machine can be easily moved/turned. So much inertia works in the machine's favor when you are using it as it doesnt jolt up and down wearing out your forearms when you are blowing snow with it. 


Where are you located btw?


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## Bobami (Feb 21, 2016)

I am in Plymouth, MA. 

Orangputeh’s post has me feeling better about what to do to get this thing snow ready. Not sure where to start to remove the auger and impeller from box.. Do these machines break in half easily to get the auger/impeller out so I can remove auger rakes from shafts.


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## GDHobkirk (Dec 27, 2017)

Bob - 

Congratulations. I live in Acton, MA, and I bought an HS1132 a year ago. I'm 72. I find it difficult to pull it backward out of the shed. My shed is only about 4: high, but I usually make the effort to start it while it's still in the shed so I can drive it out using reverse. But I sure have pulled it out several times - it just takes effort, even without resetting the transmission engagement lever. 

I had problems with shear pins, so I removed and reinstalled both the auger and impeller assembly. After 20 years using my John Deere 828D (bought new), it is a real joy to have a machine that is engineered so much better. And that starts so easily. And more. But I think the chute rotation setup is horrible. 

Feel free to contact me at Doug at GDH2 dot com if you think I might be able to help.

And good luck.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

You dont need to break them in half to remove the augers/impeller. 

Undo the two bolts from the support bracket in the middle for the auger gear box. 
Undo the 8mm bolt that ties the impeller to the auger gear box. 
There are three 6mm bolts on either side of the auger housing that hold the auger bearing housing in place, undo them on either side. 
If the input driveshaft for the auger transmission isnt seized on the impeller then the augers along with the auger transmission should just slide right out. 


To remove the impeller you'd just need to undo the long 6mm bolt with the 14mm head. With some old machines it might be seized on, hopefully its not, if it comes off then throw some anti seize on the impeller shaft before putting it back on. 

Here is how the housing looks stock, show machine is a 724










augers removed along with the gear box. 










impeller shaft, notice the healthy application of anti seize.













auger box removed from the augers. 












anti seize on auger input shaft and drive shaft leading into each auger. 



















the above service took me about 20 minutes, the machine was 5 years old and the augers were starting to seize up on the shaft, got it right before that I guess, its a pain to remove them if they are seized on, you can use oxy acetylene to remove them with ease but that means you'd have to change the oil seals in the transmission gear box.


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## Bobami (Feb 21, 2016)

Thanks for the awesome pictures and advice? Never had a Honda Snowblower. On my John Deere machines it’s a nightmare to get the auger and impeller out..

BTW.......10 mins ago I lugged it out of shed put some gas in it hooked up an AC chord opened fuel **** choked it and put it on full throttle.......it didn’t even crank for a second and started and runs like a Rolex!!! Idles without a sputter as well.

I warmed up the transmission as it says in the manual for 30 seconds twice. When I engaged the speed lever in each direction it works flawlessly with no jerking or hesitation whatsoever. I may just have a diamond in the rough here. If I knew how to post pics I WOULD SEND YOU A FEW.

I also engaged the auger and no noises at all like bad bearings and the like. 

It’s a rust bucket but I will address that after the winter when I remove the bucket and have it sand blasted and paint it properly.

It’s definitely got some miles on it. The tracks are loose as a goose but I will adjust them, the paint on the chute is non existent from top to bottom at rear of chute which is sign of a lot of use.


Light is hanging cause plastic housing is broke. Something probably fell on it.

I will get to the auger removal hopefully this weekend but it’s just to cold to work out in shed without a heater now.

Thanks again!


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

I sent you a private message, Bob, take a look when you get a chance . 

Rustoleum sunrise red from homedepot is a good color if you are repainting the machine, its not 100% match more so 80%.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Bobami said:


> I am in Plymouth, MA.
> 
> Orangputeh’s post has me feeling better about what to do to get this thing snow ready. Not sure where to start to remove the auger and impeller from box.. Do these machines break in half easily to get the auger/impeller out so I can remove auger rakes from shafts.


you don't have to break the machine in half to get augers and impeller out. all you have to do is remove impeller shear pin and the 4 bolts on each side of the auger housing and pull it out. takes 10-15 minutes at most.

however , you do have to break machine in half if you have to replace auger belt and impeller bearing on back side of housing. it is not as daunting as it seems. there is a good video on you tube showing how on a honda hs50 or 55 on removing the auger housing. same deal on this bigger machine if you have to do it.

did not see JnC excellent post with pics until after this. sounds like you have a solid machine to restore.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Bobami said:


> Thanks for the awesome pictures and advice? Never had a Honda Snowblower. On my John Deere machines it’s a nightmare to get the auger and impeller out..
> 
> BTW.......10 mins ago I lugged it out of shed put some gas in it hooked up an AC chord opened fuel **** choked it and put it on full throttle.......it didn’t even crank for a second and started and runs like a Rolex!!! Idles without a sputter as well.
> 
> ...


to post pictures click advanced reply and then go down and click manage attachments and then you can upload pics from your device. would really like to see before pictures and future progress.


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## Bobami (Feb 21, 2016)

Yes I think I have a solid machine here.

Not sure how to tell what position the bucket is in when stepping on the pedal? Doesn’t seem to catch in middle just low and high.

Thanks for all the advice her with JnC. This forum is as awesome as the hondaatvforum I am a member. Those guys talked me through changing out an engine in my vintage 1993 Honda Fourtrax 300! Prior to that experience 7 years ago the biggest thing I ever tackled was removing and rebuilding carburetors on my John Deere blowers with tecumseh engines. I can do those blind folded now lol.

THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP.

I am certain the impeller and augers are rusted solid to gearbox shafts and I will end up having to remove auger pulley and pull whole thing out to free them up......stay tuned I will most certainly be looking for more help.. I am relieved the engine runs so well. No smoke no rattles no vibrations just smooth as silk Honda engine.


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