# Pull cord problem - Craftsman/Briggs &Stratton, riveted cover, Help?



## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

see photo. Prob. just started last winter (approx. 5 yr old) The pull cord just pulls out & re-coils easily, but doesn't engage. Cord is in exc. shape, as I've been using electric start. Is this an easy DIY repair, or do I need to bring to service shop? Cover is riveted on. Would appreciate some advice.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

I am not sure why briggs went with rivits, but i bit the bullet and removed at least half a dozen bolts ti get the cover off, then i drilled out the rivits and replaced then with very short bolts, and clip om nuts so it will be easy next time. Probably the rivits make factory assembly fast and cheaper. But not for the first repair.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@gam,

You mean you can not pull that cover off to repair the recoil?

I never heard of that ... btw, the recoil is usually rivetted on all engine covers ... been that way for years,... just pull the cover to do any repairs.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

Tks. I guess what I'm looking for here is some advice/instruction ......what the problem might actually be, & how to tackle this repair, if I can do it myself... maybe a step-by-step explanation..
(full disclosure: I'm not the most mechanically-minded😜)

so, for staters, are we saying i can remove the engine cover & get at the problem, without having to remove the riveted-on cover?


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## leonz (Dec 12, 2014)

OK, here we go;

First you need to remove the heater box? on the left of the air cooling shroud to get to the bolts on that side.
once that is removed it will expose the three+ bolts holding the air cooling shroud in place.
Remove the bolts using a box end wrench preferably a 12 point box end wrench, the bottom bolt will require more effort and the nearby swear jar if your hands are big.
put the bolts in a container to keep them in one place. now you can start removing the bolts from the other side starting at the bottom. put these bolts in the container with the other ones that you removed.
NOW, the top bolts in the cylinder head have to be removed.
The cylinder head will have at least two bolts holding the top of the air cooling shroud in place. you only want to remove the bolts holding the sheet metal in place. Put the two bolts in the container with the others.
Now you can remove the blower shroud from the stub shaft by griping the sides of the cooling shroud pulling it straight out.

Don't mess with anything just yet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The recoil starter will be exposed and like most or how they WERE made there is an injection molded plastic recoil gripper that winds the steel clock spring that is directly behind. DO not attempt to remove that !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
BUT the toro engines/loncin? have a starter cup that is gripped by the recoil assembly

I am not sure if your engine has the little cast aluminum box that has the four balls in it that are there to force the starter pawl to grip the crank shaft but if you have one there do not mess with it. If it does have this style of starter pawl you can check to see if it grips by just turning it to the left and then turning it to the right and it should lock on and the starter pawl will grip the crankshaft.


You may end up having to replace the entire shroud with the recoil starter assembly as one entire part by the looks of it.


I hope I was of some help but I think you will need to replace the entire front cooling shroud which contains the recoil starter. What ever you do save the starter handle as it can be used on other engines.

The handle should have a cap right above the rope and you can pry that off and push the rope through and either cut the knot or untie it and then take off the starter handle.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

thanks leonz!
I understand all that, except for one part...the part after "OK, here we go;".....
kidding! just kidding!

leave this with me...I'll report back when I get under way...
(you mention "toro engines/loncin". Not sure what loncin means, but my engine is B&S, not Toro?)


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Welcome to SBF gam. Here are videos from our favorite small engine mechanic, donyboy73 to help you.
Part - 1




Part - 2


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

wow,thank you!
looks a little intimidating at first.....
wondering if I can handle it...
what could possibly go wrong?, lol.


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

when i first got my machine the plastic arms that engage the flywheel were gone or destroyed. i would guess something similar may have happened with yours. it really isn't too bad of a repair as long as you are patient and make sure everything goes back together the same way you took it apart.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

The only thing you need to remove is the flywheel cover, nothing else! 

This is a DIY job but can be daunting and intimidating.

You need to wind the spring 1-2 turns tighter. You need to pull the rope mist of the way out and turn the rope pulley counter clockwise to tighten the spring without allowing the rope to wrap around the pulley. You'll have a tight rope problem around the inside of the housing. You'll have to figure it out. Sometimes you can squeeze the rope around, sometimes you have to remove the pull handle.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Jlawrence08648

The best way to remove just the flywheel cover alone is to drill out the rivets, which can be challenging for a beginner, because, as i recall, there was not much clearance between the flywheel cover and the flywheel. And, when replacing the rivets, one must be sure to use short rivets to avoid contact with the flywheel.

As far as rewinding the rope, I have always filed a notch in the rope pulley, as shown in the video, to provide sufficient clearance to add extra turns to make the rope tighter.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

And some pulleys already have a notch, then some don't, much easier if it has. A Dremel grinder makes cutting a notch so easy.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

OK...Bumping up here...
Decided to finally have a go at this today, using the very nice video(s) in Post 7 above.
Ran into a snag at the 2:05-2:25 section of first video, removing that cover. Mine doesnt simply pop off after removing the 2 screws like in the video. Cant really tell but it seems to be held on by a collar and those 2 torquelike screws(which he loosens later). Am I right? or should I just try a little harder to force/pry the cover off? I dont want to damage it!
any advice?
Here's a video (i hope) of my situation, which might help show the problem.






0 new items by x x







photos.app.goo.gl





can you see the whole 38 seconds of it??


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

I'm thinking that whoever tightened those two nuts just tightened them too much and deformed the plastic a bit which is hanging the cover up. If you have the E5 torx socket, try turning the bolts and see if the cover loosens up.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

First off nice video but I'm a bit dizzy after watching so lunch......
Have you pulled your engine manual off the B&S site???:::Briggs manuals
Do that by following the steps when you get to the site. BTW when it wants your engine # it's probably looking for something like this 25M137-0001-F1 from your engine block.
Keep messing with the numbers if it won't come up at first. Once you have the manual you can see if you've removed all the fasteners.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

deezlfan said:


> I'm thinking that whoever tightened those two nuts just tightened them too much and deformed the plastic a bit which is hanging the cover up. If you have the E5 torx socket, try turning the bolts and see if the cover loosens up.


It's probably this ^ ^ ^ ^ but pull your manual at some point anyway.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

I'll have a go at finding the manual.
FWIW, whoever tightened those nuts must've worked at the B&S factory, because they've never been removed since I bought the blower from Sears.
And another thing....why do they use those torx bolts anyway? now i gotta go buy a new wrench.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

UPDATE.
got that cover off! It was just jammed on a bit tight. had to pry it s bit.
Now, about those torx screws. would it be safe to just go at them with say, vice-grip pliers?


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

I'm a correct tool guy so use a proper torx, but you're right there so.......


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

torx both internal and external, RPITA's. please be careful as there are a few types of torx, normal torx and torx plus like we find on Gm 4l60,4l65,4l80 auto tranies ,if it's a plus and you use a plain it will strip 

https://www.torx screwsamazon.com/ABN-Piece-Torx-Star-Socket/dp/B01MTDAP8G/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3EOGJ09PT1H8V&dchild=1&keywords=torx+bit+socket+set&qid=1603308232&sprefix=torx%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

^^^^^^
oh, fer pete's sake!


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

how do i remove the red plastic knob on throttle lever? (see photo) to allow removal of the plastic cover behind it? does it just pry off, like the choke knob? or some other magic way? anyone?




__





0 new items by x x







photos.app.goo.gl


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

pry it off like the other,


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

captchas said:


> pry it off like the other,


ok. are we sure? the shaft its attached to is metal, vs plastic on the choke side.
I don't want to break or damage it?


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

captchas said:


> torx both internal and external, RPITA's. please be careful as there are a few types of torx, normal torx and torx plus like we find on Gm 4l60,4l65,4l80 auto tranies ,if it's a plus and you use a plain it will strip
> 
> https://www.torx screwsamazon.com/ABN-Piece-Torx-Star-Socket/dp/B01MTDAP8G/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3EOGJ09PT1H8V&dchild=1&keywords=torx+bit+socket+set&qid=1603308232&sprefix=torx%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13


capchas- would you be kind enough to have a look at the first video in post 7, starting at about the 3:05 mark, to maybe clarify what torx wrench i need?


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

gam said:


> capchas- would you be kind enough to have a look at the first video in post 7, starting at about the 3:05 mark, to maybe clarify what torx wrench i need?


Go to Princess Auto and get a set: Search results for 'torx' | Princess Auto


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

lol. thanks!


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

The red knob pulls off, sometimes with great effort.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

gam said:


> ok. are we sure? the shaft its attached to is metal, vs plastic on the choke side.
> I don't want to break or damage it?


Yes


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

Zavie said:


> The red knob lifts off, sometimes with great effort.


if i remember it's on a double D shaft pushed on pretty tight ,


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

captchas said:


> if i remember it's on a double D shaft pushed on pretty tight ,


Yup


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

double D shaft?? not familiar with these "technical" terms...


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

ok....getting back to the issue of the torx socket....
no stores around here seem to carry the E-5 size socket required (C.Tire, Princess, NAPA, Home Depot). so...I'm tempted to try the vice-grips on it...waddaya all think?

why do they use those darn torx bolts anyway??.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

gam said:


> ok....getting back to the issue of the torx socket...
> 
> why do they use those darn torx bolts anyway??.


Torx, both internal and external allow a more consistent torque to be applied to the fastener.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

so.....when all else fails.....vice-grips?


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

gam said:


> so.....when all else fails.....vice-grips?


If you feel you can get a good grip on it, sure. You are the one who can tell. 
If you round it off you can always cut a slot in it with a dremel tool and use a screwdriver.


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## Zavie (Sep 23, 2014)

Just checked the home depot by me sells it, omg


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

UPDATE. SUCCESS!
Just completed this repair job yesterday - thanks to Grunt for loading donnyboy's how-to videos in post #7! Followed videos step by step, put in new parts, put 'er back together, crossed my fingers, and after three pulls on the cord she fired right up! yippee!
Thanks for all the info. folks. Great Forum!

next job......replace those belts!


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

Zavie said:


> Torx, both internal and external allow a more consistent torque to be applied to the fastener.


that plus, at first for a antitheft deterrent and anti home mechanic . gerrrr!


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## Dannoman (Jan 16, 2018)

Grunt said:


> Welcome to SBF gam. Here are videos from our favorite small engine mechanic, donyboy73 to help you.
> Part - 1
> 
> 
> ...


Yep. That's the video that helped me fix my pull cord. I was going to recommend it but you beat me to it. Donny Boy is my hero.


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## gam (Aug 23, 2020)

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

gam said:


> double D shaft?? not familiar with these "technical" terms...


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