# How to test starter internals?



## darcy32171 (Nov 28, 2013)

Can someone give me some input on some tests a guy can perform with a multi-meter to narrow down a problem. I pulled this starter right apart and everthing looks new inside. I by-passed the switch with 110v and can not get the starter to kick. The brushes look good and all wire connections look good. 
I`m not too keen on the multi meter settings so, please describe. Thanks,Darcy


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## darcy32171 (Nov 28, 2013)

I did not clean this starter up, it is actually pretty clean inside.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Your other posts about using an inverter to attempt to start this make me wonder if you might have burned something out.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

darcy32171 said:


> Can someone give me some input on some tests a guy can perform with a multi-meter to narrow down a problem. I pulled this starter right apart and everthing looks new inside. I by-passed the switch with 110v and can not get the starter to kick. The brushes look good and all wire connections look good.
> I`m not too keen on the multi meter settings so, please describe. Thanks,Darcy


There are a few checks in the Tecumseh manual around page 60.
http://www.asos1.com/tecumseh4hp/Tecumseh.pdf


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## TimY (Oct 27, 2013)

Just to check easy stuff first did you check the continuity of the cord and plug? And make sure all those spade connections are tight. When I test the cords on any of my tools I wiggle the daylights of them just to make sure there isn't a bad spot in them that will test fine on the bench but that spot will show up latter


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

The starter internals are remarkably clean, but the commutator has a pretty good buildup of carbon and oil. I usually use very fine emery cloth or even a pencil eraser to clean it while it is disassembled. The brushes need clean copper to make good contact for electricity to flow.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Did someone hack off the ground prong ??


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## darcy32171 (Nov 28, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Did someone hack off the ground prong ??


 LOL you noticed. It was -34c and the cord was stiff. When I removed it, I noticed the ground prong still on the cord.


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## tuffnell (Dec 1, 2011)

Make sure the electrical connections are clean.
Examine the commutator very closely, especially were the wires connect to the commutator segments. Sometimes the solder connection wasn't done properly and you'll notice a bit of black soot at the connection.
Once your done with this part of the test then you will have to resort to using a meter.


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## darcy32171 (Nov 28, 2013)

Well, I tested everything per the manual directions and everything tests good. I cleaned the commutator and lightly sanded it to a shiny copper look with 1000grit wet/dry paper. I lightly sanded the brushes. I then cleaned everything with rubbing alcohol. 
The commutator: Each little square is its own when tested continuity. There is no continuity with the commutator and the iron bars of the main unit or the housing (which is a good sign). All the metal pads inside the housing has continuity with each other and the housing itself. 
I reinstalled everything and there is no sign of life.
I took the end cap off and ran power straight to the brush leads (ruling out the switch and wires) and there is no life.
As far as I can tell: The brushes are wired in such a manner that they can`t be possibly switched around. Two black wired brushes are across from each other and the white wired brushes are across from each other. The length of wire going to each brush pretty much puts that brush in its slot in the brush card. The brushes are plenty long enough and the springs are strong enough to apply pressure. 
I`m at a loss here and I just priced a new one out and up here in Canada they are : $270 taxes in.


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## darcy32171 (Nov 28, 2013)

The 4 metal pads inside the housing and the iron bars on the main unit, are they suppose to be magnetized?


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