# Best current paint picks for Ariens orange and white repaints



## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

there are a lot of paint choices out there. wondering what people have great success with in matching the iconic "creamsicle" paint scheme of vintage blowers. for those who have several years on their refresh jobs, how is it holding up? before/after pics welcome.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

I use on the Ariens, the Rustoleum Allis Chalmers Orange and any white gloss for the wheels.

I choose to use black on engines, as well as handle bars, unless the bars are a good chrome still.

The original older older Ariens used a white like a Vintage white, it was a softer white, not a bright white.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)




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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

i wonder if ariens ever put out their own touch up paints, or it their vintage color codes are available.

for white, i prefer the soft white over a stark white.


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## Jackmels (Feb 18, 2013)

1620 chevy orange, Rustoleum Canvas white


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Rustoleum 'Poppy Red' or Gravely 'Mustang Red'


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

I'm actually in the process of repainting the inside of the bucket, belly and chute since O had to pull the assembly out to replave my impeller. I used Rustoleum Chevy engine block orange $5.44 a can, grey primer under it and rustoleum automotive enamel gloss as the top coat to make it last longer. Shell white, for the white. All paint at 4 to 5 a can, no more. One can covered all of that with a quarter left over on the orange. It beats paying 15 bucks a can from Ariens and its a better paint, high heat enamel to 500 degrees.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

what did you do for prep?


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## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Dusty said:


> since O had to pull the assembly out to replave my impeller.


you should ad some bracing behind the impeller vanes to prevent the vanes from being able to be bent back so far in the future.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

crazzywolfie said:


> you should ad some bracing behind the impeller vanes to prevent the vanes from being able to be bent back so far in the future.


Thats a good idea. I noticed in 1973 they switched to the more modern impeller that ran until the early 2000's. It had braces behind it, to add more support, like you mentioned, but even with one of them, it still would have got bent, I hit a landscape stone about 4 inches x 4 inches in diameter. 70-72 was an in between for redisign for them, they had just upgraded the augers from the old style that used angle Iron bent into a V and the added kickers on the inner augers that came out further an inch and a half and were bent to act as kickers to help kick the snow back to the impeller, but they still had that older style impeller. Were gonna try not to hit anymore landscape stones, thats what really bent that one badly out of shape like that. The rest of them slightly bend over time, but evenly, so it stays balanced and still throws snow well, but when I hit that stone, it really knocked it out of balance, bad. We use these machines commercially, so unfortunately we don't always know where things are hidden. I will say this, these machines are very easy to work on. As soon as you remove the two housing bushings from the bucket, that entire rake assembly pulls right out of their easily without having to break the unit in half and the old impeller slid off like butter after tapping the roll pins out. I put anti sieze on the shaft, so if the impeller ever has to come off again, it won't be difficult. If I didn't go thru the process of repainting all of that, I could have had the old impeller off and the new one on and completely reassembled in an hour, theirs no pulley behind the bucket to worry about fighting to get off. The end of the rake assembly is a splined shaft that slides right into the throw out clutch assembly back their. I was amazed how easy it was the other day when I did the same repair process on my 71", 24" wide machine.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dusty said:


> Thats a good idea. I noticed in 1973 they switched to the more modern impeller that ran until the early 2000's. It had braces behind it, to add more support, like you mentioned, but even with one of them, it still would have got bent, I hit a landscape stone about 4 inches x 4 inches in diameter. 70-72 was an in between for redisign for them, they had just upgraded the augers from the old style that used angle Iron bent into a V and the added kickers on the inner augers that came out further an inch and a half and were bent to act as kickers to help kick the snow back to the impeller, but they still had that older style impeller. Were gonna try not to hit anymore landscape stones, thats what really bent that one badly out of shape like that. The rest of them slightly bend over time, but evenly, so it stays balanced and still throws snow well, but when I hit that stone, it really knocked it out of balance, bad. We use these machines commercially, so unfortunately we don't always know where things are hidden. I will say this, these machines are very easy to work on. As soon as you remove the two housing bushings from the bucket, that entire rake assembly pulls right out of their easily without having to break the unit in half and the old impeller slid off like butter after tapping the roll pins out. I put anti sieze on the shaft, so if the impeller ever has to come off again, it won't be difficult. If I didn't go thru the process of repainting all of that, I could have had the old impeller off and the new one on and completely reassembled in an hour, theirs no pulley behind the bucket to worry about fighting to get off. The end of the rake assembly is a splined shaft that slides right into the throw out clutch assembly back their. I was amazed how easy it was the other day when I did the same repair process on my 71", 24" wide machine.


dusty,

i have to remove the augers on two 10ML60 machines due to the augers being seized to the shafts and not spinning free with the shear bolts removed. it sounds like you are saying removal is easy, and accomplished from the front. is that so? you also said you smeared anti seize on the auger shaft (impeller also?), did you consider installing grease fittings?


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

what stores seem to have the best in stock selection of paint color choices?


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I painted my 1986 Ariens and found Rustoleum Orange #214084 to be perfect. I found it at both Walmart and Home Depot.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

seems like the older ariens orange is a deeper color than the brighter orange produced since perhaps after the 10k series?


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

As I stated, I found the Allis Chalmers Orange by Rustoleum to be spot on for the early Ariens deeper orange.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

If your doing a full on restoration, any orange on the darker side will do ..... As no one will really know unless you park it next to an original from that era ..... Otherwise, go with the Allis Chalmers Orange.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Bottom line, you want to keep it protected and looking nice.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> dusty,
> 
> i have to remove the augers on two 10ML60 machines due to the augers being seized to the shafts and not spinning free with the shear bolts removed. it sounds like you are saying removal is easy, and accomplished from the front. is that so? you also said you smeared anti seize on the auger shaft (impeller also?), did you consider installing great fittings?


Sorry, I wasn't alerted that you commented. My augers were not frozen fortunately, they have been greased regularly, so that wasn't something I had to worry about. But as far as the entire rake assembly itself, yes it comes out easily. Just remove the two bushing and bushing supports from the housing. After that the entire assembly will slide right out of the bucket. Be careful not to scratch your housing pulling it out, if you do, no big deal. Their are already grease fitting on the augers, if they were greased regularly, they should be free, if they weren't, thats when they freeze. As far as the impeller, yea I got lucky mine weren't siezed, they often are. Once you get the impeller off, slathering anti sieze kn that shaft dhould stop that from happening again. As far the augers themselves, your gonna need an oxy acetalyne torch to heat them up red hot and than quench them with cold water to get them off of their. They can put up a real fight. I know guys get tye impellers pressed off at shops, not sure if you can do that with the augers. Start adding a good penatrant into the inside of the augers in between them and the shaft now, something like kroil, let them soak a weak, than hit them with a torch and start tapping them to get them off. Good luck. I had an auger siezed into a Simplicity I had. I just left it, because that is the biggest pita trying to get those siezed augers off their. Good luck!


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

oneacer said:


> If your doing a full on restoration, any orange on the darker side will do ..... As no one will really know unless you park it next to an original from that era ..... Otherwise, go with the Allis Chalmers Orange.


I had to pull the rake assembly out to replace my Impellers. I figured while I was in their, now was the time to repaint the housing, belly, chute and deflector mainly for the flow of snow. Snow flows off the shiny painted surfaces much easier than rough bare metal. Its interesting you mentioned the Allis Chalmers Orange, because I have a pair of Simplicity skid shoes from the Era Allis Chalmers owned Simplicity and had the same orange and someone had painted them, I guess they got painted with the housing when they did it, its that same chevy engine block orange on those too, that I painted them, but next time I'll try out the Allis Chalmers Orange. Very hard to tell what is and isn't Ariens, its impossible to duplicate the old pre 1980 Orange anyway, it had lead in it and was a slighly different shade of Orange, but as far as their modern orange today, the chevy engine block orange is like a dead on match. I painted the top of this housing in one section where the original paint was gone. I cant tell where the old starts and the new begins it blended nicely.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> seems like the older ariens orange is a deeper color than the brighter orange produced since perhaps after the 10k series?


The older machines had lead in the paint, the last year they used that paint was 1980, in 81 the lead came out. You'll see that many of the machines from the 80's and 90's have the paint peeling off in sheets, you wont see that on any machine built from 1980 and back that lead paint holds up really well, its on their like baked on enamel and it wont come off. I got my first bottle of Chevy engine block orange at Home Depot. After that I ordered two cans from www.GoVets.com delivered to my door for about the same price. It shipped from Grainger industrial supplies. Thats where I get my Orange from now for these machines. The primer and gloss I got at the home depot. I get all my other paints for any machines I paint primarily at home depot, occasionally Lowes.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dusty said:


> Sorry, I wasn't alerted that you commented. My augers were not frozen fortunately, they have been greased regularly, so that wasn't something I had to worry about. But as far as the entire rake assembly itself, yes it comes out easily. Just remove the two bushing and bushing supports from the housing. After that the entire assembly will slide right out of the bucket. Be careful not to scratch your housing pulling it out, if you do, no big deal. Their are already grease fitting on the augers, if they were greased regularly, they should be free, if they weren't, thats when they freeze. As far as the impeller, yea I got lucky mine weren't siezed, they often are. Once you get the impeller off, slathering anti sieze kn that shaft dhould stop that from happening again. As far the augers themselves, your gonna need an oxy acetalyne torch to heat them up red hot and than quench them with cold water to get them off of their. They can put up a real fight. I know guys get tye impellers pressed off at shops, not sure if you can do that with the augers. Start adding a good penatrant into the inside of the augers in between them and the shaft now, something like kroil, let them soak a weak, than hit them with a torch and start tapping them to get them off. Good luck. I had an auger siezed into a Simplicity I had. I just left it, because that is the biggest pita trying to get those siezed augers off their. Good luck!


your early '70's augers most likely have grease fittings; my '65 does not, unfortunately. almost unavoidable to result in seizure. its gone 60 years without any apparent damage to the gearbox. more light residential use, maybe the risks are low.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Photo shows the inside of the belly pan of my 1974 Ariens (original paint and not faded) on the right compared to my 1969 Ariens I painted last year.

I used a red oxide primer and Dupli-color 1620 Chevy engine orange, it is a pretty close match.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> your early '70's augers most likely have grease filling; my '65 does not, unfortunately. almost unavoidable to result in seizure. its gone 60 years without any apparent damage to the gearbox. more light residential use, maybe the risks are low.


Your augers have grease fittings, they all did. Two on each auger, look for them. If their not their, they fell off, its common, their just pressed in. In that case look for the tiny little holes where they would have been and order them and put them back on so you can add grease again going forward, in the meantime when you get them off, if you can get them off, clean up any burrs on the auger shaft and grease them manually by hand well, before you put those augers back on. Feel with your hand for them, their tiny little holes, grease could be hiding them. Augers are always at high risk of siezing to the shaft if their not greased, especially when you break a shear bolt, best time too add more gresse. The front gearbox remained the same throughout 10,000 series production. My 24 wide 71 has the older style assembly now built in 69" same as the 65", when I went to take the impeller off a 69 I had spare for parts, the entire assembly was in better shape, so I just swapped the whole thing in their. Greasing the augers also pushes the grease out to the far sides greasing the bushings and bushing supports which also need to be greased. While you have that assembly out, be sure to grease those bushing and bushing supports well, that's the time to do it, they do wear out, especially if not greased. Also check your front gearbox fluid level, while its still in level. When you remove the top bolt, fluid should be ready to leak out, if it doesn't add some, it takes 80w90 gear oil, if its really low drain it and start fresh. Their is one other spot on these machines that have a grease fitting, also common for falling off, its on the LH hand side of the axle, the side that has the differential lock. Make sure you grease that area really well, as it is the area that adds grease to the differential, the two halves of the axle and the axle bushing. If the fitting is not their, again feel around for the hole where it would have been and purchase one and add it, so you can start greasing that again too. You can also take the wheel and hub off and pull that side of the axle out and manually grease all of that by hand. Thats what I had to do on the 24" as grease was having great difficulty going into that fitting.
Look closely at the left auger in this picture, you can see where the two grease fittings are located on that side. The right side has them to directly on the other side. Thats where they are and should be, if their not feel with your finger and find the little holes where they were.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

Ziggy65 said:


> Photo shows the inside of the belly pan of my 1974 Ariens (original paint and not faded) on the right compared to my 1969 Ariens I painted last year.
> 
> I used a red oxide primer and Dupli-color 1620 Chevy engine orange, it is a pretty close match.
> 
> ...


Looks great


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Locked and loaded


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dusty said:


> Your augers have grease fittings, they all did. Two on each auger, look for them. If their not their, they fell off, its common, their just pressed in. In that case look for the tiny little holes where they would have been and order them and put them back on so you can add grease again going forward, in the meantime when you get them off, if you can get them off, clean up any burrs on the auger shaft and grease them manually by hand well, before you put those augers back on. Feel with your hand for them, their tiny little holes, grease could be hiding them. Augers are always at high risk of siezing to the shaft if their not greased, especially when you break a shear bolt, best time too add more gresse. The front gearbox remained the same throughout 10,000 series production. My 24 wide 71 has the older style assembly now built in 69" same as the 65", when I went to take the impeller off a 69 I had spare for parts, the entire assembly was in better shape, so I just swapped the whole thing in their. Greasing the augers also pushes the grease out to the far sides greasing the bushings and bushing supports which also need to be greased. While you have that assembly out, be sure to grease those bushing and bushing supports well, that's the time to do it, they do wear out, especially if not greased. Also check your front gearbox fluid level, while its still in level. When you remove the top bolt, fluid should be ready to leak out, if it doesn't add some, it takes 80w90 gear oil, if its really low drain it and start fresh. Their is one other spot on these machines that have a grease fitting, also common for falling off, its on the LH hand side of the axle, the side that has the differential lock. Make sure you grease that area really well, as it is the area that adds grease to the differential, the two halves of the axle and the axle bushing. If the fitting is not their, again feel around for the hole where it would have been and purchase one and add it, so you can start greasing that again too. You can also take the wheel and hub off and pull that side of the axle out and manually grease all of that by hand. Thats what I had to do on the 24" as grease was having great difficulty going into that fitting.
> Look closely at the left auger in this picture, you can see where the two grease fittings are located on that side. The right side has them to directly on the other side. Thats where they are and should be, if their not feel with your finger and find the little holes where they were.


I’m sorry, you appear to be wrong!!? No fittings.


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

> I’m sorry, you appear to be wrong!!? No fittings.


They were there when the factory painted your augers. You can still see where the paint was prevented from sticking to the shaft by their presence


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

deezlfan said:


> They were there when the factory painted your augers. You can still see where the paint was prevented from sticking to the shaft by their presence


i hope your right and I'm wrong, but then i must be blind and stupid! are you seeing the shear pin holes?


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Doesn't look like your machine came with zerk fittings, like the later 10000 series did. 
Here is my 1969 model. The holes in the auger shafts for the fittings should be obvious, if they were there.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Thank you! I’m not blind and stupid!!

waiting for the apologies....🤣


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> I’m sorry, you appear to be wrong!!? No fittings.


Have you turned those augers to the other side and felt for the holes? We see one side in those photos. If their really not their, thats why your augers froze and that sucks, because getting those off is the biggest headache on earth and if you don't have an oxy-acetalyne torch you can forget about it, their not gonna come off. 55 years later, those suckers are gonna be welded to the shaft. If thats the case, you might as well stick the shear bolts back in and forget it. Because if you had a torch you would spend about 50 bucks in gas to get them hot enough to come off. If you don't have a torch and you take that some place that does, its gonna hurt. If you plan on working on old machines like this on a regular basis, you should invest in a torch now. I paid $200 for my torch kit used. Great investment. Not getting stuff like that off without it. Good luck with that, its gonna be fun...


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dusty said:


> Have you turned those augers to the other side and felt for the holes? We see one side in those photos. If their really not their, thats why your augers froze and that sucks, because getting those off is the biggest headache on earth and if you don't have an oxy-acetalyne torch you can forget about it, their not gonna come off. 55 years later, those suckers are gonna be welded to the shaft. If thats the case, you might as well stick the shear bolts back in and forget it. Because if you had a torch you would spend about 50 bucks in gas to get them hot enough to come off. If you don't have a torch and you take that some place that does, its gonna hurt. If you plan on working on old machines like this on a regular basis, you should invest in a torch now. I paid $200 for my torch kit used. Great investment. Not getting stuff like that off without it. Good luck with that, its gonna be fun...


those are 4 pics, one on each side. the first 10ML60 i picked up also didn't have fittings. one of those augers is stuck. must be that the earliest ones do not have them. ariens must have expected owners to pull the guts out of the bucket once a year and lubed the shafts.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Ziggy65 said:


> Doesn't look like your machine came with zerk fittings, like the later 10000 series did.
> Here is my 1969 model. The holes in the auger shafts for the fittings should be obvious, if they were there.
> 
> View attachment 177901


too pretty to use!


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

On with the show: meet canvas white


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

rwh963 said:


> too pretty to use!


Thanks, but they are meant to be used, we did not get much snow in January or March this year so only put 5 hours on this machine this year. I use my newer Ariens most of the time, but will have two 10000 series as back ups next winter.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Just curious, but how close is Kubota orange? From the pictures it looks very close, hard to say for sure though.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

The older ones came with very tiny "oil holes" not zerks on the augers.
If you take the time to look at the parts manuals, there are no zerks pictured or listed.
A lot of people added zerks into these holes.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

oneboltshort said:


> The older ones came with very tiny "oil holes" not zerks on the augers.
> If you take the time to look at the parts manuals, there are no zerks pictured or listed.
> A lot of people added zerks into these holes.
> View attachment 177937


i'll be happy to poke around, but dod not see any, and i don't believe newer paint had been applies. if they exist, maybe i can add kroil, and later zerks. i believe my '64 Snowbird doesn't have any auger zerks either.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

oneboltshort said:


> The older ones came with very tiny "oil holes" not zerks on the augers.
> If you take the time to look at the parts manuals, there are no zerks pictured or listed.
> A lot of people added zerks into these holes.
> View attachment 177937


Nope, my manual makes no mention.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

It's clear I don't have the knowledge to understand what information it is you need or want regarding these machines you have. I wish you good luck.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Just curious, but how close is Kubota orange? From the pictures it looks very close, hard to say for sure though.


If you are trying to match the original vintage Ariens orange, Kubota orange is not a good match.

When I was painting my machine last year I ran out of Dupli Color Chevy orange. It was during the first COVID lock down and stores were only accepting online orders, so I decided to paint the augers with a can of Kubota orange I had on the shelf. It was a totally different shade (much lighter orange), and I had to repaint the augers with the Chevy orange.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

oneboltshort said:


> The older ones came with very tiny "oil holes" not zerks on the augers.
> If you take the time to look at the parts manuals, there are no zerks pictured or listed.
> A lot of people added zerks into these holes.
> View attachment 177937


I learn something every day, very good information.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> i'll be happy to poke around, but dod not see any, and i don't believe newer paint had been applies. if they exist, maybe i can add kroil, and later zerks. i believe my '64 Snowbird doesn't have any auger zerks either.


If the holes I mentioned earlier are their that I told you to feel around for, why don't you order two grease zerks from Ariens, the kind they press in and pop them in where the holes are already and add grease? I lost one or two in the past. I just ordered a couple and tapped them in with a light hammer, than you can add your grease which will help you get them things off. I have 3 spare zerks at the moment from that 69 I took apart, so if one ever comes out and I loose it, I'll just pop another one in. Their not in their very secure, I've had them pull out on me when I went to remove my grease gun, that's usually when they pop out. I just tap them back in if that happens.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Ziggy65 said:


> If you are trying to match the original vintage Ariens orange, Kubota orange is not a good match.
> 
> When I was painting my machine last year I ran out of Dupli Color Chevy orange. It was during the first COVID lock down and stores were only accepting online orders, so I decided to paint the augers with a can of Kubota orange I had on the shelf. It was a totally different shade (much lighter orange), and I had to repaint the augers with the Chevy orange.


Kubota has two oranges, actually called 'Red 1' and 'Red 2'.

But maybe they are both too light.

Thanks... worth a shot anyhow.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Yes, here they are called Old and New Kubota orange, I think I tried new Kubota orange.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dusty said:


> If the holes I mentioned earlier are their that I told you to feel around for, why don't you order two grease zerks from Ariens, the kind they press in and pop them in where the holes are already and add grease? I lost one or two in the past. I just ordered a couple and tapped them in with a light hammer, than you can add your grease which will help you get them things off. I have 3 spare zerks at the moment from that 69 I took apart, so if one ever comes out and I loose it, I'll just pop another one in. Their not in their very secure, I've had them pull out on me when I went to remove my grease gun, that's usually when they pop out. I just tap them back in if that happens.


there are no holes. i would have to drill them, which i would consider.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

i'm going to experiment with the lesser 10M blower. one auger is frozen. it will help guide me.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

More white painting


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dry fit


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

One version.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Before and after


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

You have been busy, great results.
Can't wait to see it completed, but I know how much time and effort is involved.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Looking good ... I have been in the painting mode lately myself ....


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

oneacer said:


> Looking good ... I have been in the painting mode lately myself ....


get my message about friction springs?


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Wheels


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

here is a picture of engine decals for my period blower.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Did lose the primer button spring


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> Did lose the primer button spring


That little hook you put the wire thru for the electric start was the hook up point for the hoist to move the engines down the assembly line in Tecumseh's plant.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> Locked and loaded


Just an interesting thing to note, when I look up both Chevy engine block Orange and Allis Chalmers implement orange search results also show Rustoleum gloss real orange, it looks identical to the other two or in the same field. Right now, the nearest chevy engine block orange is 15 miles away from me. Allis chalmers orange isn't in stock around me at the moment, that Rustoleum gloss real orange is in abundance and only $3.98 a can $1.65 cheaper than chevy engine block orange and cheaper than Allis Chalmers orange and its right across the street from me. If I don't get the two cans of engine block orange I ordered online within reasonable time, I may buy a can of the Gloss real Orange and see how it matches up. If it is just like the others, I'm gonna start using that. Its the cheapest and available in high abundance right across the street from me.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> Did lose the primer button spring


One last thing to note, muffler is mot original. Thats a Briggs muffler, they still make and sell that muffler today. The original was round. You can still find them if you wanted to get it back to original. I believe I have seen Arnold sell it new within the last few years.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dusty said:


> One last thing to note, muffler is mot original. Thats a Briggs muffler, they still make and sell that muffler today. The original was round. You can still find them if you wanted to get it back to original. I believe I have seen Arnold sell it new within the last few years.


if true, thx for the heads up. i'll check it out, though not trying for a museum piece!


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dusty said:


> Just an interesting thing to note, when I look up both Chevy engine block Orange and Allis Chalmers implement orange search results also show Rustoleum gloss real orange, it looks identical to the other two or in the same field. Right now, the nearest chevy engine block orange is 15 miles away from me. Allis chalmers orange isn't in stock around me at the moment, that Rustoleum gloss real orange is in abundance and only $3.98 a can $1.65 cheaper than chevy engine block orange and cheaper than Allis Chalmers orange and its right across the street from me. If I don't get the two cans of engine block orange I ordered online within reasonable time, I may buy a can of the Gloss real Orange and see how it matches up. If it is just like the others, I'm gonna start using that. Its the cheapest and available in high abundance right across the street from me.


yeah, try a can on a small area and see how you like it. though, if doing a full teardown repainting, i would order the recommended color.


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

Dusty said:


> That little hook you put the wire thru for the electric start was the hook up point for the hoist to move the engines down the assembly line in Tecumseh's plant.


interesting, if true.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> interesting, if true.


Yea, its true, I found that out when I tried to run an electric starter wire under their, sometimes it wont lineup, because those were actually just the mounts to run the engines down the line during production, not that wire, you'll also notice the heater covers on a lot of them had pre drilled holes for the old porcelain switch box to bolt up under, to hide it. You only find those on the early H block Tecumseh's, however if you look at different small engines, a lot of them have them. The Briggs V and Opposed twin have two bolted to their shrouds, thats where their lift points are and on the newer Inteks, you'll notice the two bolts on the front of the engine have a shank on them. Theirs a reason those two bolts are longer, that's where a machine in the factory with an arm with a flat end with two holes pulls forward, grabs them, lifts them and on they go, its robotics now, the old Tecumseh ones were done manually with men and chain hoists with hooks on the end. Those all guided in production of the engines, they can still be used for their original purpose now, if you have a hoist, but for those smaller engines, their easy enough to lift without it, the larger opposed and v twins, not so much, those are back breakers, ever lift an opposed twin out of a tractor, chassis? I have several times, it's not fun.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

rwh963 said:


> interesting, if true.


I just threw a new OEM carb on a 1996 HSK70, 7hp Tecumseh I have and noticed, it too has the lift point for the hoist. It's not as primitive as the ones from the 60's and 70's were, but it has it, the larger OHV Tecumseh's also have them. The 8-10hp flatheads are harder to spot, theirs a round hole on the very top of the shroud, its often capped off and hidden, thats where they were grabbed and lifted on those models. Most people never think about what that stuff is their for, ease in production and lifting.


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

One other interesting fact I figured I would note about Tecumseh engines in specific. Most of them can easily swap over from winter to summer by simply removing the heater cover and adding the air filter assembly with air filter as shown as an example, like this h70 (hsk70). Now on this engine, it has that plastic choke shank, which would break pretty easily if exposed, but that can also easily be remedied by removing that plastic choke lever and swapping on the metal one that hangs to the side. The older ones that already had that metal choke lever, you didn't have to even worry about. No other engines can do this, outleast not so easily anyway. The old 5-7hp flatheads were the easiest. The 8-10 can have it done too. Most of them can. Tecumseh's are actually really great engines, once you get past the few poor designs that gave them a bad name in a lot of people's heads. Briggs made a few crap engines too, especially the newer ones, so no one is perfect.


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