# Gilson/Ward's Snoblower...OLD but nice



## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I have this old unit and hopefully I can get a few questions answered. Before I do anything I'd like to know if it's worth investing my time and $$. Engine runs very well after I took the complete fuel system apart and cleaned it out. Complete disassembly of carb, tank, and fuel lines.
#1- How old is this machine?
#2- What is that adjustment slot for where the auger shaft is mounted?
#3- What kind of, and how much grease goes into the zerk just below and behind the left wheel from the operator's position?
#4- What type of oil/grease goes into the auger gear housing right out in the front? 
#5- How do I get the belts off? 
Thanks very much in advance for any insight and help.
Joe


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

*Huh?*

Dang!! 34 views so far and no info on it? Is this machine a huge piece of crap, that nobody is replying or what?? 
But....I got the belts off.
Found out the age (1978)
No need to fool with the adjustment in the auger transmission.
Auger trans mission takes 30w oil.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Sorry. The only thing I can do is send you over to Pete's Gilson website. Maybe he an answer your questions since he is a Gilson collector and former dealer.

The Gilson SNOW BLOWER Shop, where the Gilson Snowblower Legacy Lives


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

Well heck, I hate it when that happens! There hasn't been much happening on the forum lately, which could explain the delay in responses from somebody familiar with Gilsons.

First, welcome to our group. That is one really clean machine you have there. Shryp has got you pointed in the right direction. 

Please keep coming back and letting us know how things are going.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I was wondering if there was anyone here. Thanks SHRYP for sending me to Pete's place. I see you're in Cleveland, Oh. I lived in Maple Hgts. and Northfield for 9 yrs. Way too cold for a Hillbilly! I can remember driving down Lakeshore Blvd. and the lake climbing out of its banks and talking a stroll down the road, leaving a trail of ice behind it. 
Joe


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

the condition that machine appears to be in it should out last us all with the right care. no reason not to put a couple bucks into it. i just picked up a lawnboy 2 stage green and white 5 horse that is one hundred percent identical to that one. zerc fittings on the auger get multi purpose lithium grease like the front end of a car or the driveshaft. adjustment slot helps to shift the whole auger assembly front or back to help line up the belt. the auger case, which by the way is cast iron and massive- only top of the line machines today use cast iron-- last forever, that gear case uses sae 90 gear oil

sorry about the delay as well. this time of year i only check in occasionally.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Welcome*

Micah

First off, welcome to the forum.
As far as a value, there are so many variables it's hard to give a guesstimate on what something is worth it's a crapshoot. What a machine in one section of the country goes for can be totally different than in another.
As far as Gilson's go, Snowmann has something like a 10-32 and I'm sure he can help more with mechanical questions.
That's a good looking blower there and I'm sure it will do you proud.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I just have made up my mind to keep it. I have been over it with a fine tooth comb and all it needs is belt replacement and the ignition system is breaking down. I considered upgrading to the solid state Magnetron ignition but I decided to stay with the old condenser/points setup. I have been tinkering with old Kohler, Tecumseh, and now Briggs engines and always got them running and running very well. The only other shortcoming it has is the solid rubber tires which are no longer available. I have already considered what to do. It's gonna involve cutting an welding but I have a very good friend with a nice machine shop and we'll find pneumatic type rims and go to work when it comes time. I already have the old belts off and this thing should hopefully be ready to roll in a few weeks. I'll keep you posted!
Joe


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Replacement wheels*

Here's a thread on switching out hard rubber to pneumatic tires I've done several times
Modifying a snowblower from hard rubber tires to pneumatic tires
It might give you an idea on how it's been done before.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Thank you very much HCBPH. I was thinking along those lines to convert my snowblower. I have a friend who hsa a huge machine shop. He does custom steel fabricating. I was going to get a set of pneumatic type wheels from some where and let him maybe do the conversion possibly next summer. Don't know if I'll have time to do it this fall.
Thanks again for the very informative post.
Joe


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Got the ignition system replaced Wed. eve. I didn't need to borrow any "special" tools to get the flywheel off. It's been a *very* long time since I have fooled with Briggs ignition. Probably 25-30 yrs. I have to go back inside and reinstall the points spring correctly. You can see in the last pic that the spring is not on there the right way. It starts easier now, and stays running. Couple pics of the old and new electrics. Hopefully get the new belts this Saturday. Does anybody have any idea where I can get a can of spray paint to touch it up? The bottom plate had some rust on it and I've got it sanded and ready for primer. If I can't find a can I'll just go get some type of orange paint. No big deal. It's not a restoration project. Going to be a good, working unit.
Joe


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

any auto parts store and get chevy orange in vht or duplicolor. should match very well. for reference look in galleries under my snow blower....that is duplicolor chevy orange


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

td5771 said:


> any auto parts store and get chevy orange in vht or duplicolor. should match very well. for reference look in galleries under my snow blower....that is duplicolor chevy orange


Thank you very much.
Take a look at what I got today over to Auto Zone....Not a bad match a'tall. It's not like I'm gonna be driving this thing to a show. Just want to protect the bare metal . 
The new belts I got today at a local hydraulic hose repair/electric motor repair/belt supply store. One of the finest independent little companies in the eastern panhandle of Wv. Belts are exact match in size and are heavy duty. 
I am feeling pretty good about this old machine. Starts up on the 1st or 2nd pull and runs very well. This really seems to be a very low hours machine. Cutting knife is hardly worn any. No rust on the machine anywhere to speak of except the rear corner of the bottom plate where the oil runs down when changing it. Augers and impeller still have all the paint on them and the chute has 90% of it's paint. I'm happy.
Joe


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

One other thing that makes me think it hasn't been used much is the condition of the drive disc. See the pic. I believe new discs have 1/4" of meat on them. This one isn't worn much a'tall.
Joe


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

glad to see it worked out. I am a fan of points as well. once you learn how to do them its really a walk in the park. just picked up a lawn boy 2 stage and it is identical to your machine down to the controls. just it is green and white. needs carb and tank work but shouldnt be a problem. 

you should however look at the 2 idler arm bearings. the blower i have is in fantastic shape mechanically (poor cosmetically) but the idlers were trashed. I mention them because they are not bearings. they have an outer steel shell with a bronze bushing, another steel bushing then all three of those fit inside each other and get a retaining ring and washer holding it all onto the idler arm stud. I checked the petes vintage snowblower site and he had tons of great info for our unitrol models. however i found that if none of the steel parts are damaged a simple bronze bushing that is 1 inch id, 1 and 1/8 od and 1 inch long will make them perfect again. and they are about 8 or 9 bucks for a 3 pack at places like grainger.

good luck and if that blower is in half the shape that it looks you wont have any issues for years with a little tlc


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I did check the functionality of those idler rollers and they both run very smooth at the present time. Is there any provision for maintenance that you know of? I mean, should I disassemble them and grease them with hi-temp grease? I noticed that the one is under tension all the time. (Not the best design.) Maybe I'll order those bushings if you think I need 'em.
After going over the machine and making all the necessary repairs, it starts first or 2nd pull and after cleaning and re-lubing the friction wheel slide, it goes into all speeds very smoothly. 
The one thing that really bothered me about it was those dang, solid wheels. But I got even that problem attended to and now it's running pneumatic tires!
I'll just post a few pics and also tell you that it involved another machine, some thick wall 3/4" copper tubing and a little patience. 
Been over to Pete's place and have read just about everything he's got. Going to revisit the part about the idler bushings.
Joe


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

td5771 said:


> glad to see it worked out. I am a fan of points as well. once you learn how to do them its really a walk in the park. just picked up a lawn boy 2 stage and it is identical to your machine down to the controls. just it is green and white. needs carb and tank work but shouldnt be a problem.
> 
> you should however look at the 2 idler arm bearings. the blower i have is in fantastic shape mechanically (poor cosmetically) but the idlers were trashed. I mention them because they are not bearings. they have an outer steel shell with a bronze bushing, another steel bushing then all three of those fit inside each other and get a retaining ring and washer holding it all onto the idler arm stud. I checked the petes vintage snowblower site and he had tons of great info for our unitrol models. however i found that if none of the steel parts are damaged a simple bronze bushing that is 1 inch id, 1 and 1/8 od and 1 inch long will make them perfect again. and they are about 8 or 9 bucks for a 3 pack at places like grainger.
> 
> good luck and if that blower is in half the shape that it looks you wont have any issues for years with a little tlc


TD5771,
I did some checking and my unit has the sealed bearings. Pic is attached. Pete's page says these are the ones I want and no maintenance required.
Thanks for heading off a possible headache! These stamped, two piece idlers have sealed bearings.
Joe


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

perfect on the idlers. if they do go bad any repair place would have those ones. just bring the old one in. 

it is a real nice unit. when you try and move it around it goes with no bending or flexing when you push on the handles. most new ones bend and twist all over. the older ones are much better built. back when you bought a machine you expected it to last at least your lifetime.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

td5771 said:


> perfect on the idlers. if they do go bad any repair place would have those ones. just bring the old one in.
> 
> it is a real nice unit. when you try and move it around it goes with no bending or flexing when you push on the handles. most new ones bend and twist all over. the older ones are much better built. back when you bought a machine you expected it to last at least your lifetime.


I know what you mean about the whole dang thing flexing. I have used those machines and they resemble working with wet cardboard. You're right. This thing moves all together. Doesn't try to go everywhere at one time. 
The pin holes on those Craftsman wheels I fabbed to fit have only a 1/4" hole through them and I don't see any way of being able to make them bigger so I bought a couple small steel bushings that were 5/16" x 1/4" and ground them down to fit the axle holes. I'll post a pic or two when I get them downloaded. Worked out really well!
Joe


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

*An update to my first post.*



micah68kj said:


> I have this old unit and hopefully I can get a few questions answered. Before I do anything I'd like to know if it's worth investing my time and $$. Engine runs very well after I took the complete fuel system apart and cleaned it out. Complete disassembly of carb, tank, and fuel lines.
> #1- How old is this machine?
> #2- What is that adjustment slot for where the auger shaft is mounted?
> #3- What kind of, and how much grease goes into the zerk just below and behind the left wheel from the operator's position?
> ...


I got all these questions answered and more, just by actually getting in the machine and making all necessary repairs and doing online research. Thanks so much Pete, for answering my questions and for your awesome Gilson® pages! What a wealth of info there. 
Since that first post I have completely redone the fuel system including carb overhaul. Installed new ignition system which got me re-aquainted with Briggs ignitions, R/R belts, cleaned and re-lubed the speed selector slide, Checked idler pulleys for functionality, Checked and adjusted cutting edge and skid plates, Read pages and pages of info on Gilsons® and made solid to pneumatic tire transition. Last thing I did was to make bushings for axles to convert from 5/16" to 1/4" wheel pins to accomodate newer style wheels. Actually it's all been fun. It's a pretty straightforward piece of machinery. Very well built too.
Even though I have yet to use it I'm pretty happy with it.
Oh. One more thing. I cobbled some drift cutters for it too. Already had 2 pieces of that angle that comes with a new garage door install kit. Didn't even need to cut them just had to get the correct bolts. Holes already matched up too. Very happy. 
Joe


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

*More pics as promised.*

Sorry that axle photos are not in order. 
The way I have mounted the "drift cutter" bars will also allow a crosspiece to be added if I feel it necessary. About 4 years ago we had 2 blizzards in a week and I missed roughly 3 wks. work. (School system employee) I was pretty much sick in bed the whole time but the neighbors sure could have used something like this for all that snow. It was almost 48" in a few places. With these bars set at max ht as shown in the pic, they are at 32". Hope I never see that.
Joe
I'm even considering installing a remote chute angle adjuster. Find one from a modern junk machine.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Remote Chute*

I don't know if you're looking at parts from other brands but here's what a Murray built Craftsman uses for a remote chute








Not too complex and should be easy to adapt if you can get all the pieces and parts.
The controller is on the left handlebar. It just has a cable that runs to the chute. The only down side is if you need a cable, they're available but a little pricey.


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Yes. I was considering something like that. I'm not absolutely positive I'll do it but if I can fine or better yet, cobble something together it'll happen.
Joe


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