# Need help with Toro 3521 engine mount bolts



## RHIT1006 (Aug 29, 2015)

Hi everyone,

I'm new here and new to small engine rebuilds. I bought a used 1985 Toro 3521 snowblower from my neighbor. It has the original Tecumseh H35-45590p engine. I've had it for a year now, this winter will be it's 2nd season of use and it seems to run fine. I noticed it was leaking fuel at the shut off valve when it is fully closed(original by the look of it), so I decided I would replace it and do a little overhaul on it. I took the gas tank off as well as the carb and air intake today. The air filter is off and completely black. The gaskets were awful. One was hardened and I had to use a hammer and screwdriver to chisel it off. The muffler is corroded beyond repair and the gasket there was nearly gone, just some whitish looking fluff adhered to both sides. The primer line and fuel lines are original and need replaced. I realized that my little overhaul was going to be a necessity instead of a practice exercise since it appears that no maintenance was performed. I'd like to replace the gaskets in the engine and clean it, but that's where I'm hitting a snag. I can't remove the shroud without at least loosening the mounting bolts because there is a bolt blocking the shroud from sliding off the back. I can't remove that bolt either because I don't have clearance between it and the shroud. 

I attempted to loosen the mounting bolts for the engine. I couldn't budge the nuts on the top side so I eventually realized that I needed to access them from the bottom. I tipped it over and took off the bottom protective casing exposing the drive gears. I can see the hex bolts, but I can't get a good grip on them with a wrench or socket. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or special tools for loosening these bolts? I'm not worried if I tear them up because I'm replacing them after I take the engine off anyway. Any help is greatly appreciated!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I had a 3521 that I changed the engine on and the bolts were welded to the frame. On mine the nuts just unscrewed from the top.

When you start looking at all the things you need to replace, remember that a new engine is only $99 at Harbor Freight.


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## RHIT1006 (Aug 29, 2015)

Thanks for the response. I'll keep that in mind about the engine replacement. I still need to figure out a way to take the engine off though, which is my main problem.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

on my 521 which is the same machine with a bigger engine, i just held the bolts on the outside of the engine with an adjustable wrench and loosened them from the bottom with a ratchet and a few extensions, i shifted between gears to bet better access to some bolts


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

If the main component of the blower is in that poor of condition, I'd want to check the augers are free on the shaft. Are the bushings/bearings any good on the auger sides and at the impeller? What's the friction wheel look like?
If that checks out try to find the parts you know you need right now and see if they are available and at what cost first. If you still think that 3.5hp is gonna cut it you can use a universal joint adapter to grab the under side bolt heads or if they are welded use a good quality 6 point socket or box end wrench on the top side nuts. Spray a night before with PBblaster and leave it. Slide a piece of pipe over the wrench and they will come off. They will either snap off or break loose. For small pockets of resistance I use a 24" breaker bar. For sit in demonstrators I have a 4 ft section of trampoline leg piping that has never lost a battle yet. If you've already rounded off the upper nuts with a 12 point socket or open end wrench use an angle grinder with cutoff wheel.


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## RHIT1006 (Aug 29, 2015)

I think the augers are decent, they handled a pretty bad winter last year with no problem, but I was going to take a look at them after i finish the engine since I didn't check them last year at all. It throws snow really well for being 30 yrs old.

As for the nuts, I have started to wear them out a little bit. The only thing I have used are open ended adjustable wrenches. That's the only thing that will fit on there since they are so close to the body of the engine. I got a good look at the bolt heads when i tipped the blower over and they definitely aren't welded. I was able to loosen one today just enough to see slight movement, but not before I damaged the nut with that wrench. Not too much force was used to loosen it, and I know that if I had a clear shot underneath, I'd be able to get it with the socket. But with the angle and obstructions in the way, I was barely able to keep the wrench on the bolt head while turning on the nut.

I'm going to see if a crescent wrench would be a better choice for the nuts. My tool chest isn't very diverse, so I know I need to take a trip to the hardware store tomorrow.


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## RHIT1006 (Aug 29, 2015)

43128 said:


> on my 521 which is the same machine with a bigger engine, i just held the bolts on the outside of the engine with an adjustable wrench and loosened them from the bottom with a ratchet and a few extensions, i shifted between gears to bet better access to some bolts


Thanks for the tip! I'll try shifting the gears around tomorrow. One way or another I'll get that engine off. Like I said in my first post, this was going to be a learning project for me since I'm new to it all. I really like tinkering with things so this is something fun for me to do. I'm still young (25) and I want to build these skills so that someday I can pass it down to my future kids. That's why I want to fix this engine rather than replace it if at all possible.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Just completed the same maintenance on a 1986 Toro 521. To remove the recoil shroud, you do in fact need to loosen the four engine mounting bolts. You don't need to remove the bolts completely, just back them out about halfway while the machine is tipped forward resting on it's front auger. To loosen the engine mounting bolts, you need a 10mm open end wrench, a variety of 3/8 ratchet extension lengths, a 3/8 swivel "knuckle", and a 10mm 3/8 drive deep socket. Using the 10mm open end wrench, hold the engine mount bolt head from the top, then with the10mm deep socket, extensions (and swivel if needed) use the ratchet to loosen the engine mount bolts. I remember having difficulty accessing the top right nut because the transmission linkage was in the way. Instead of using the ratchet and socket, I used a 10mm offset distributor box wrench. Worked like a charm
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...d=0CB4QMygAMABqFQoTCIPmmOjVz8cCFQOVHgodf9YOFg


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## RHIT1006 (Aug 29, 2015)

Thanks Freezn. I'm going to get one of those universal adapter joints, "knuckles" (I'm assuming they are the same thing) and also an extension or two for my socket wrench. I knew there had to be a method to this, and you guys are helping so much. I can't thank you enough for your suggestions! If I'm successful tomorrow, I'll let you know.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

This should get you going
9 Pc Fully Polished Metric Combination Wrench Set
3 Pc Universal Joint Socket Adapter Set
9 Pc Wobble Socket Extension Set


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

RHIT1006 said:


> I think the augers are decent, they handled a pretty bad winter last year with no problem, but I was going to take a look at them after i finish the engine since I didn't check them last year at all. It throws snow really well for being 30 yrs old.
> 
> As for the nuts, I have started to wear them out a little bit. The only thing I have used are open ended adjustable wrenches. That's the only thing that will fit on there since they are so close to the body of the engine. I got a good look at the bolt heads when i tipped the blower over and they definitely aren't welded. I was able to loosen one today just enough to see slight movement, but not before I damaged the nut with that wrench. Not too much force was used to loosen it, and I know that if I had a clear shot underneath, I'd be able to get it with the socket. But with the angle and obstructions in the way, I was barely able to keep the wrench on the bolt head while turning on the nut.
> 
> I'm going to see if a crescent wrench would be a better choice for the nuts. My tool chest isn't very diverse, so I know I need to take a trip to the hardware store tomorrow.


 invest in a decent set of combo wrenchs. 1/4 to at least 7/8. sears always seems to have a sale on them. and a basic socket set would not hurt anything.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

For snowblowers and lawn tractors/mowers save your money and get the HF Pittsburgh stuff. They're both Chinese anyway. HF will replace the Pittsburgh stuff just like Sears. I like the HF impact sockets and they're cheaper than Craftsman's regular line. I have a cup full of broken craftsman sockets to go back as we speak. Recent Craftsman are so bad now I keep the broken ones to save on fuel for the returns. In particular the 18mm regular sockets are pure junk. If you do any GM brake work on your own buy the HF impact sockets. You can use breaker bars and extended leverage pipes on them. Recent Craftsman regular sockets cannot be used with a breaker bar or any extended leverage. Very frustrating to split a socket with a regular ratchet and smack your knuckles into the leaf spring. Just my opinion and experience, not looking to start a battle here. It's your money:wavetowel2:


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

jtclays said:


> Very frustrating to split a socket with a regular ratchet and smack your knuckles into the leaf spring.


I was taught long ago to always push with an open hand. It will save your knuckles when something slips.

I think I have the metric combo wrenches linked above as well as a set of the offset ones. The offset ones have a little more flex in them, but work well for getting into tight spots. The regular shaped ones I use more and they have held up quite well and I even use a hammer on them.

I also have one of their black composite offset rachets that I always use and it is holding up great.

Don't forget your coupons and your free items!
http://www.dealsoff.com/harbor-freight-coupons/


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Shyrp, Where GM mounts some of their calipers your lucky to get to the bolts with a socket. Just did all 4 wheels with rotors, pads and rear calipers on our burb recently. Saved money over having it done, and my neighbors learned lots of new terminology from me in the garage:facepalm_zpsdj194qh


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The last time I did GM brakes I needed to get torx bits. Next time try hitting the end of your breaker bar or wrench with a hammer instead of pushing. You can get the same affect as an impact gun in places you can't reach with your air tools. It also takes a lot less effort. Of course, that assumes you have room to swing a hammer.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Yup, the fronts still use the big Torx drive, rears on the 3/4 ton use hex heads. Local mechanic showed me an articulated, flat ratchet head box end wrench he uses for the rears on them. Christmas is coming, gonna look into a couple like these.


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## RHIT1006 (Aug 29, 2015)

Hey guys, 

I wanted to go to harbor freight today, but I realized that the closest one we have is right next to some apartments where 2-3 shootings a day happen...so I spent more money and went to Lowes. I bought a socket set that had sae and metric combo wrenches, some universal joints and some extenders. It took me maybe 30 minutes to get the engine off! I spent hours yesterday so this was just awesome! Anyway, thanks again for all your ideas and suggestions. Now it's time to order the parts!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

An extra $20 might be worth not getting shot. Glad you got it off and now have some tools that will help you with future projects. As you can see, the right tools can be a big help.

Actually, I think they charge $6.99 flat rate shipping so if you can think of a few things you need crab some coupons and put in an order.


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## chet0729 (Nov 9, 2015)

I just did this swap on a 3521 with the HF engine and the bolts were 1/2" not metric.
3 of the 4 are very easy to get a ratchet on from underneath and an open end wrench on top. One I had to use an open end wrench on.
I used some spacers I bought at Home Depot to move the auger control mount out so the rod would clear the engine.
Very simple swap. The biggest challenge was getting teh pulley off the engine and even that was not a big deal.


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