# Craftsman 9 Hp 29 in circa 2003 green paint match



## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

Greetings friends ....I just scored a MTD Craftsman today that needed roll pins in the auger shaft....all fixed, but would like to touch up the dark green paint that it is painted with stock.......any suggestions so I don't have to trial and error this project?????


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## bwdbrn1 (Nov 24, 2010)

:white^_^arial^_^0^_

Hopefully one of our members will have the answer for you on a color code. How do you plan to repaint it? Rattle can, or something a little hardier?


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

I haven't seen any paints that match. And the touch up paint from MTD is over $20 a can. That paint has metallic and most greens of that shade are non-metallic.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

*MTD green*

is the MTD color available in rattle can? How do I go about accessing it?


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## DennisP (Jan 10, 2016)

The Craftsman Polo Green you are looking for is paint code 0689. The Paint to order from Sears Parts is 150020. It is the proper metallic shade and you can't tell what was painted and what was original powdercoat if you apply it properly. These codes/paint were from 1999 Craftsman, but I am pretty sure there is only one Polo Green they used until they stopped using it.

Hopefully this is a machine you are keeping. 

I REALLY hate all the snowblower flipping that is done, since in a lot of cases people just paint over rust and the buyers a lot of times have no clue what they are buying and in some cases people end up getting something that should have been junked. ie, the flipper gets the snowblower for cheap because the original owner knows how bad it is, then they fix one or two things and throw some paint on it and tries to make way more out of it than the machine is worth. Certainly more than the hour or two they put into it.

Sad, truely, sad. Almost as bad as used-car flippers.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

nothing i sell used is junk, everything i sell comes with a 90 day warranty excluding the fuel system, belts, and gearbox. i always give buyers the opportunity to test machines before they buy them and if they have any problems i make sure the buyer is aware of the issues the machine may have. just because someone flips equipment and try to make a few bucks doesnt mean im trying to rip you off


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

150020 cross references to Husqvarna #582974901

It's an exact match to the Craftsman green. I bought my can through repairclinic.com because it was cheaper than ordering through Sears, but they missed the delivery date by a mile because it was out of stock when I ordered and they kept pushing back the estimated delivery date.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

*Flipper*

Well Dennis....guilty as charged! I'll drive up to an hour each way, pay up to $100 for a blower that the owner was told by their small engine mechanic that it is not worth fixing, put the poor machine on the operating table,replace belts, bearings,shave plate, skids, carburator etc. as needed, adjust the transmission (on a powershift completely rebuild as that was why it was junked), totally service with new oil, sparkplug,top off auger gear oil, every wear point gets litium grease. I then sand down the rusty parts of the machine if any....use rust converter.....then repaint with two coats. I cover the paint all over with clearcoat. Then I sit on the machine for months until the last minute some one NEEDS a machine cause the blizzard is coming tomorrow. Then I sell it for $250-$350. Some machines I have four hours into, some ten or more......and some I keep! I'm still deciding on the Craftsman....it wll be my first MTD and I'd kind of like to try one first hand. Don't think of me as a flipper....that is so judgemental...think of me as a snowblower emergency room surgeon. Thanks for the paint tip my friend!


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## DennisP (Jan 10, 2016)

Honestly, I have no problem with people getting something, putting time/energy/money into it and then selling it and being compensated for thier efforts.

I do have a problem with people taking advantage of others. Be it the guy that knows that the fix is a trivial part, yet allows the person selling to believe the line of BS from the repair shop, just to get a "deal", or the guy that goes ahead and does the minimum to get the max profit (ie, putting lipstick on a pig).

If you are honest, honorable, hard working, and can honestly say (and know) you are doing right by and helping others and that is your intent, then all the more power to you, and I wish you luck and prosperity in all your endeavors.

There is far too much of people preying upon others in this day and age. And there seems to be less and less of honest talented people with the capabilities to actually help others willing to lend a hand.


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## Motor City (Jan 6, 2014)

I buy & sell, also. Most of the time people really don't know and or understand all of the things wrong with the broken machine they're selling. I I take a gamble most of the time, on what I'm buying. Because most all don't known. And all I have to go on, is a pull on the starter cord, to see if the motor has compression. But that isn't a sure fire check for all that can be wrong, which I have found out. As my neighbor puts it, "I'm saving things from the junk yard". 

If a machine is a bit of a rust bucket, I price it accordingly. It may not be the prettiest machine, but they are getting it at a decent price. And it's better than shoveling.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

I agree Motor City.....it's a crap shoot, and not always just a dirty carb! I just finished up a Toro that looked like it was going to be not to bad a fix ( the engine started but would not stay running) A 1985 7 24 with the electric interface safetys. I started with cleaning the carb....no change.....new carb....no good clean and readjust points....worked for about ten minutes.....new points and condensor......now no spark at all. On and off with the flywheel six more times and a new mag later just to find I knocked off the magnet on the flywheel rapping it to get it off. Epoxy fix still no spark...... I disconnected the ground wire coming out of the points and got spark. I took out all the safety switches and tested them with an ohm meter, all good. There was a small electrical box near the motor called the interface module, and that was the problem the whole time.......$60 for the part. The machine still won't start in neutral if you don't hold down the handle, and I'm trying to puzzle that one out. The mechanics I talk with at the small engine shops don't even want to mess with them....they disconnect all the safetys......No way I'm going to profit on this bad girl!


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