# CRAFTSMAN/SEARS C950-52677-8



## tennant (Dec 23, 2021)

Seems no threads yet for this specific model, I guess I'm the chosen one. Here's what I picked up recently and hope to get it out there blowing snow soon.




















Some information I'm trying to gather for my own use (and maybe someone else's in the future)

Manual? Can't find any specific to this number online
Engine model number

All help appreciated, I'll update thread with my progress & fixes


----------



## tennant (Dec 23, 2021)

Current issues (will update thread when fixed)

*Auger belt seems to have some movement while it's running (Slight tension assumed)*
Auger belt spinning even with belt brake applied while idling, the belt that came on it seems to be the right size. Possibly the brake is worn out or not putting enough pressure on it, but unsure. The adjustable pully is putting no pressure on it (and adjusted all the way back for testing, still has some slow movement).

*Has 6 speeds forward, 2 backwards - Backwards Speed 1 currently goes forward*
This seems to just be the speed selector rod being on the wrong hole (will post pictures soon) or the speed selector rod being bent/configured incorrectly. The rubber wheel clutch thing is in good shape, I believe this will be an easy fix.

*Rough idle, full choke required to run*
Have already cleaned the carburetor, but when doing so the rubber gasket failed and it leaks gas now. Going to just replace this for $20 from Amazon once I confirm the part number is compatible. Could rebuild it with just gaskets, but an entire carb assembly is $20 so you can't beat that.

*Electric start mount lower bolts are missing/stripped*
For a short time, it worked, then fell off. I noticed quickly the electric start lower two bolts were just missing/gone. Top two that allow motor to slot in, are still present. Going to figure out the tap size and get new bolts. One of the bottom bolt holes is partially broken off from the engine cast. Going to leave that for now and just re-tap the other remaining hole. Eventually might try to fix this for good, but don't really use electric start often so don't care too much about it.

For the year (assumed 80s/90s) it's in amazing shape, every bolt has come off/on this while working on it cleanly. For the salt we use down here, that's a miracle. My truck from 2008 has more rust than this thing. If a new carb gets this rolling right, I'll give it a nice rattle can job back to its original colors. Mostly because someone else (prior owner) painted it, kinda poorly.


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Welcome.
I never can find Canadian manuals. Someone here does.
Have you ever worked on a snow blower?
Edit, I would save the old carb.


----------



## tennant (Dec 23, 2021)

Big Ed said:


> Welcome.
> I never can find Canadian manuals. Someone here does.
> Have you ever worked on a snow blower?
> Edit, I would save the old carb.


Worked on a smaller one before, but not one like this - but they seem pretty easy to work on if things aren't rusted out


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

tennant said:


> Worked on a smaller one before, but not one like this - but they seem pretty easy to work on if things aren't rusted out


Drain most of the gas and stand it up on the bucket and take the bottom plate off, see how that looks inside.
I have a 5/22 Craftsman from 2000 (or so), that should come apart almost like mine.
I know someone here can find the Canadian manual for you, give it some time.


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Sounds like your moving along on it just fine ..... I love the older machines ... I have many restored in my fleet. I understand Canadian manuals can be difficult to obtain, but many members here are from Canada, they'll chime in.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Welcome to SBF tennant. Here is a link to the Canadian Sears parts manuals.
Sears Parts Diagrams - PartsBay.ca 

Your motor is an 8 hp Tecumseh and the model number is stamped into the top of the recoil shroud in front of where the spark plug wire is coming out.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

tennant said:


> *Electric start mount lower bolts are missing/stripped*
> Going to figure out the tap size and get new bolts.


Make sure your bolts aren't to long, longer bolts will pop a hole into the crankcase.


----------



## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Search for c950-52677 and you'll get some past discussions and links to manuals:









Search results for query: C950-52677







www.snowblowerforum.com





I believe the last digit of the model number isn't that critical, maybe the year of manufacture, like -7 for 1987, -8 for 1988, and so on (just a guess).


----------



## tennant (Dec 23, 2021)

Grunt said:


> Welcome to SBF tennant. Here is a link to the Canadian Sears parts manuals.
> Sears Parts Diagrams - PartsBay.ca
> 
> Your motor is an 8 hp Tecumseh and the model number is stamped into the top of the recoil shroud in front of where the spark plug wire is coming out.


Big help thank you, here's the engine number under the previous owner's bad paint job.










Also have carb photo with both serial numbers


----------



## tennant (Dec 23, 2021)

Grunt said:


> Make sure your bolts aren't to long, longer bolts will pop a hole into the crankcase.


Agreed. Left side bottom is the snapped part. Right side is just stripped out but has all its meat left. Going to just tap it again with the same threads as the top two bolts and find a decent match. If the left side doesn't feel totally crumbly - may try tapping it as well and using an extra short bolt or washers. Just to keep it on there. Worst case it falls off again and I just keep it off (shrug).


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Most of mine have electric start, and I never use it ... Always start easy with pull cord.


----------



## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Difficult to read the model number. If it is 143.786022, the Tecumseh model number is HM80-155309M. You need this number to order engine parts
Carb number 1099 is Tecumseh part number 632334..


----------



## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

tennant said:


> Agreed. Left side bottom is the snapped part. Right side is just stripped out but has all its meat left. Going to just tap it again with the same threads as the top two bolts and find a decent match. If the left side doesn't feel totally crumbly - may try tapping it as well and using an extra short bolt or washers. Just to keep it on there. Worst case it falls off again and I just keep it off (shrug).
> 
> View attachment 185203


Here's some hopeful thoughts/help. I've had some worse than that, it is repairable if you are "CAREFUL", and I mean be careful or you can hole the block. For the right hole, you want a thread chase, not a tap. You want to push the threads back into place if at all possible, not cut them anew. There's also enough meat there to carefully drill and tap for a helicoil invert, which I have done just use a bottoming tap to thread the hole deep enough for the threaded insert. I think I used a grinder to grind the insert down to the height of the pad.
Now for the left one, you first want to measure the depth of the right hand hole to make some form of drill stop so you don't punch the case. Put some penetrant down that hole (I like acetone/ATF mixed 50-50) to work on the rust in the hole. You have 2 things here to try. First is a left twist drill which can be gotten at HF and other places. Made a center starter dimple then using a larger bit (but not as large as the hole) with a drill stop and turning the drill at a low speed attempt to drill through the remaining bolt. If you're lucky the left twist drill will grab into the remaining bolt and spin it out. If that doesn't work then check out an easyout. Again, use penetrant and maybe a little heat and go easy so you don't break it off in the stub. If you still can't get it out you can try carefully drilling it out, try to keep it as centered as you can. 
Is that pad broken off? You might be able to JB Weld it up to level. I don't have the equipment or skill to weld cast iron so don't know how easy that would be to build up that way.


----------



## PaulyRags (Jan 8, 2022)

Hi there, I helped my brother pick up one of these models tonight and the owner had the original manual. In fact, he said everything on this unit is original. I asked - "even the spark plug?" He said yes! 

I believe this unit has the *HMSK80* - see photos below. I have a 1979 Ariens with the *HM80 *and from what I can tell so far, they are very similar - but I'm new to this - a month or two, so still lots to learn! 

Let me know if you need anything and I'll try my best to help you out.


----------



## Eddie Henderson (3 mo ago)

PaulyRags said:


> Hi there, I helped my brother pick up one of these models tonight and the owner had the original manual. In fact, he said everything on this unit is original. I asked - "even the spark plug?" He said yes!
> 
> I believe this unit has the *HMSK80* - see photos below. I have a 1979 Ariens with the *HM80 *and from what I can tell so far, they are very similar - but I'm new to this - a month or two, so still lots to learn!
> 
> ...


Im on a hunt for searchable numbers on amazon for auger and drive belts for this same machine..thanks in advance.


----------



## bigbro (3 mo ago)

Eddie Henderson said:


> Im on a hunt for searchable numbers on amazon for auger and drive belts for this same machine..thanks in advance.


Traction drive belt - Murray - 25MA
Auger drive belt - Murray - 3887MA


----------

