# 414cc jet



## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Stock jet is # 113 .4448
I ordered # 117 .46
shall see if running at 3825 rpm the motor likes it id like to turn it another 100 rpm


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

That seems too fast. What is normal speed 3,100 RPM? Well that's what I spin the lawn mower engine at. It's 20 years old and still starts on 1 pull. It's a 6HP Briggs.

I check mine with a tach, so I know it's right.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Ariens hydro pro said:


> That seems too fast. What is normal speed 3,100 RPM? Well that's what I spin the lawn mower engine at. It's 20 years old and still starts on 1 pull. It's a 6HP Briggs.
> 
> I check mine with a tach, so I know it's right.



Ariens spec is 3600
lct spec is 3850 plus or minus 50 rpm
set with a tach always

ive spun my tec flattys at 3700 for years no issues with fresh clean oil 1/16 above full line
ohv tec 358cc set at 3725 with no issues


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## tdipaul (Jul 11, 2015)

.

The torque you always brag about with this engine will go down

So why do it?
.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

tdipaul said:


> .
> 
> The torque you always brag about with this engine will go down
> 
> ...



impeller speed increase gives more gains then any loss of torque
when it was raised from 3525 to 3825 were it is at now the machine handled all things better except sucking gas quicker i can still finish on less then a tank
Blowing to the right the wind blows it back in my face to the left is not my property i try not to blow it over there being able to blow it 55 feet or better allows me to blow it across the road for me the farther the better

if it likes the new jet i might raise it another 100


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

Ariens hydro pro said:


> That seems too fast. What is normal speed 3,100 RPM? Well that's what I spin the lawn mower engine at. It's 20 years old and still starts on 1 pull. It's a 6HP Briggs.
> 
> I check mine with a tach, so I know it's right.


i drilled the jet out on my 208 cc clone and upped the rpm to 4000. just hope i dont end up eating the flywheel. :surprise:


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

1132le said:


> Stock jet is # 113 .4448
> I ordered # 117 .46
> shall see if running at 3825 rpm the motor likes it id like to turn it another 100 rpm


I find the engine runs plenty rich with stock settings and 3700 rpm. I will be interested in your findings. Will you check the fuel mixture by switching off engine under full load and seeing the plug colour (what I do)? or some other way?

How will you increase the engine rpm to 3925? By adjusting the governor spring fixed location on cooling cover, by moving the tab away from governor arm? Or some other way? 

LCT say max rpm is 3900 rpm.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Town said:


> I find the engine runs plenty rich with stock settings and 3700 rpm. I will be interested in your findings. Will you check the fuel mixture by switching off engine under full load and seeing the plug colour (what I do)? or some other way?
> 
> How will you increase the engine rpm to 3925? By adjusting the governor spring fixed location on cooling cover, by moving the tab away from governor arm? Or some other way?
> 
> LCT say max rpm is 3900 rpm.



3900 is what ill go for at that rpm i think the .46 should be nice
love to know what jet is in the 420cc


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

1132le said:


> 3900 is what ill go for at that rpm i think the .46 should be nice
> love to know what jet is in the 420cc


Isn't the LCT 420 in the Ariens line the EFI model only?


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## drmerdp (Feb 9, 2014)

1132le said:


> Stock jet is # 113 .4448
> I ordered # 117 .46
> shall see if running at 3825 rpm the motor likes it id like to turn it another 100 rpm


This is fun! Definitely want to get your feedback on the adjustments. 

For comparisons sake my champion generator with a 439cc has a .044 jet.
The engine is CARB approved...

So a .046 jet might just be the sweet spot for a winter spec 414cc engine. How many hours on the engine? 

It’s easier to determine to lean then to rich. Maybe a .045 stepping stone might be useful. Either way :thumbsup:


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

drmerdp said:


> This is fun! Definitely want to get your feedback on the adjustments.
> 
> For comparisons sake my champion generator with a 439cc has a .044 jet.
> The engine is CARB approved...
> ...



iam guessing 70 hrs ive put maybe 12 on it
I talked with someone who had drilled out a jet to .45 said it ran great with low hrs on his engine under 10 i think

but ill be running 300 or so rpm higher then him .4448 to .46 isnt very much


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

1132le said:


> Ariens spec is 3600
> lct spec is 3850 plus or minus 50 rpm
> set with a tach always
> 
> ...


Ok, I never known the spec. Is the lawn mower or snow blower same?


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Ariens hydro pro said:


> Ok, I never known the spec. Is the lawn mower or snow blower same?



nope mower is lower


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Town said:


> Isn't the LCT 420 in the Ariens line the EFI model only?


No its not just efi
Id love to know what jet is in the briggs 21 ft lbs engine
could put a washer on the back of the tab i really do not want to bend it


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

I'm putting a tack on mine to see what a new one turns at. It doesn't seem that fast by ear. Thanks for the info


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Ariens hydro pro said:


> I'm putting a tack on mine to see what a new one turns at. It doesn't seem that fast by ear. Thanks for the info



Mine was 3525 rpm when i got it
Most do not come set to spec 3600
you get about a 30 rpm increase in impeller speed for every 100 rpm in engine speed


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## Ariens hydro pro (Jan 24, 2014)

I dragged out Big Burtha today. On the 420 Briggs it was 1400 RPM at idle and wide open it was 3560 RPM. By ear it didn't sound that fast, well compared to a 6 HP Briggs lawn mower.

Cool I recorded that in my records so if something goes weird I know what it was new. Thanks for the info!


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Jet showed up from bmi carts today
no number on the jet
no part number on the bag it was in
seems silly to me how do i know what they sent me
shall be calling them in the am to ask why 

more incompetent sellers/dealers/big box stores trust nobody going to have it measured before i try it


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

1132le said:


> Jet showed up from bmi carts today
> no number on the jet
> no part number on the bag it was in
> seems silly to me how do i know what they sent me
> ...


Did you get a chance to try the new jet?

I adjusted the governor spring fixed position a little and now my engine spins at 3,900 rpm (LCT spec) with engine warm. Runs just as smooth and quiet as at 3,700 rpm (Ariens spec). 

Impeller speed increased from 1,100 to 1,170 rpm. The calculation for impeller speed gives 1,261 rpm using 2.75" engine pulley and 8.5" impeller pulley running at 3,900 rpm. Belts were new at the beginning of season and I just adjusted tension. Belts ride at level with top of pulleys.

You should try the 6 bladed impeller it has quite outstanding performance in all conditions.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

Iam going to try the jet this yr
you bent the tab away from the spring? How far 1/8 of and inch?


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Those engines are usually designed for the peak Torque output at 3100 RPM's, so by over revving it, you are just running it out of its powerband. When it slows back to its peak torque speed, it will lug a bit from top speed to the lower peak speed under a load.
About the only thing you may do is wear the engine out a little bit faster at higher speeds. 
If it is a real light snow that wont bog the engine down, it might throw it a little bit further, but not enough to notice. Under heavy snow load conditions, it will still bog down to peak torque speeds or less depending on how much it is loaded down.
You really wont notice any difference with its performance, except maybe wearing the engine out a little faster.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

ST1100A said:


> Those engines are usually designed for the peak Torque output at 3100 RPM's, so by over revving it, you are just running it out of its powerband. When it slows back to its peak torque speed, it will lug a bit from top speed to the lower peak speed under a load.
> About the only thing you may do is wear the engine out a little bit faster at higher speeds.
> If it is a real light snow that wont bog the engine down, it might throw it a little bit further, but not enough to notice. Under heavy snow load conditions, it will still bog down to peak torque speeds or less depending on how much it is loaded down.
> You really wont notice any difference with its performance, except maybe wearing the engine out a little faster.



You couldn't be more wrong
As delivered it was 3525 rpm it has already been upped to 3825 rpm with a huge gain in throwing and eating via the impeller rpm increase
thats already been discussed
2 years of hands use same driveway for 40 years
6 incorrect statement in you're blurb carry on


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

1132le said:


> Iam going to try the jet this yr
> you bent the tab away from the spring? How far 1/8 of and inch?


Way less than an 1/8", perhaps less than a 1/16". I found it too awkward to bend, the angles of approach do not give the controlled leverage required. However, you can align a punch from engine base upward to the tab and tap with a hammer lightly. First attempt was the winner where I could feel just slight movement and the engine ran 3,900 rpm. So now I can adjust engine speed between 3,900 rpm and 3,700 rpm using the two outer holes on the governor arm. 

My spark plug colour under engine load is a brown colour at 3,700 rpm and no change going up to 3,900 rpm, so the main jet is sized for the power setting. Going from 3,700 rpm to 3,900 rpm is only an 8% increase in rpm. It will be interesting to see the results of your change of main jet.

Good luck.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

1132le said:


> You couldn't be more wrong
> As delivered it was 3525 rpm it has already been upped to 3825 rpm with a huge gain in throwing and eating via the impeller rpm increase
> thats already been discussed
> 2 years of hands use same driveway for 40 years
> 6 incorrect statement in you're blurb carry on


2 years of use, that's nothing.
I want to see how the connecting rod is going to hold up in 20 years use, or a minimum 2000 engine hours, more like to see 5000 engine hours use at 4000 RPM.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

ST1100A said:


> 2 years of use, that's nothing.
> I want to see how the connecting rod is going to hold up in 20 years use, or a minimum 2000 engine hours, more like to see 5000 engine hours use at 4000 RPM.


 5000 hrs good deflection
20 hrs per winter of use lol


1 overreving out of power range wrong machine throws farther eats better
2 it will lug wrong I have a tach rpms hardly change increase in impeller speed matter so much more
3 might throw a lil better but will bog wrong again
4 more wear to the engine from a less then 7% increase in rpm buncha bs my you just someone on net typing me on the other hand blowing snow 50 years used setup 2 years hands on I must know if its better VS your imo gueesing
5 won't notice any performance increase so wrong
6 I've seen these used on go karts make 35 hp
7 parts you say no issue can get a brand new motorr for 275





What can you buy today thats last more then 5 years? Washer dryer tv dishwasher all throw away


Ariens 28 inch 414cc 1400 bucks new
I paid 900 burns no oil 20 hrs per winter use
last prolly 20 yrs sell for 400 thats 25 bucks a year blows snow 60 feet starts 1 pull turns on a dime with auto turn case closed





5000 hrs thats all you got 

everyone who runs there snowblower 5000 hrs raise there hand wait let's make it 3000
cricket cricket


Some hate L head tecs they blow up if overeved more myths kept full of clean oil mine runs at 3800 to 3900 its 20 yrs old
you hate lct wgaf its,all bs


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

20 hours, you must live in Florida, Young man I have engines with over 25,000 hours on them and they are flat heads, I have overhead engines with 15,000 hours on them, and they are all American made.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

ST1100A said:


> Those engines are usually designed for the peak Torque output at 3100 RPM's, so by over revving it, you are just running it out of its powerband. When it slows back to its peak torque speed, it will lug a bit from top speed to the lower peak speed under a load.
> About the only thing you may do is wear the engine out a little bit faster at higher speeds.
> If it is a real light snow that wont bog the engine down, it might throw it a little bit further, but not enough to notice. Under heavy snow load conditions, it will still bog down to peak torque speeds or less depending on how much it is loaded down.
> You really wont notice any difference with its performance, except maybe wearing the engine out a little faster.


I see that you are correct on the engine rpm for the max torque on the LCT engines. That of course is 500 to 600 rpm higher than other current engines. I don't agree with your other observations, since they seem to be taken from the side valve (SV) engine era and we are now in the OHV era. The SV engines had very poor breathing due to the inefficient design of the valves to combustion chamber. So max torque did roughly coincide with max power and the engine would tend to follow your description. Increasing engine rpm would do nothing to improve power.

But you are not correct for OHV engines and the way they develop power since they do not suffer from poor breathing and keep developing more power as engine speed increases. The camshaft timing and valve spring characteristics and other engine flow characteristics will limit power increases at some point, and the strength and design of some components will limit engine rpm due to failure of components. So from this we can be assured that engine rpm spec'd by the manufacturer will be safe for the engine and the engine will develop more power at the spec'd max.

My 8 hp sv Tecumseh was an adequate engine and lasted me 30 years before it got a little tired, along with the rest of the machine. No point in overhauling that machine since much better equipment had been developed by 2003/4. The Craftsman 11/30 had an OHV engine but it did not perform to my expectations so the engine got a governor adjustment in the first year to increase rpm and it performed much better on the EOD than before. I later got a laser device for engine rpm and found it to be a little over 3,800 rpm, up from probably 3,600 or less (so less than 7% increase). That machine is now over 15 years old and is working great for my son for the last 5 years.

My Ariens Platinum SHO was purchased new about 5 years ago and again did not perform to my expectations on our wet EOD. In the first year I found the problem to be the engine rpm, which was 3,450 rpm instead of mid range spec of 3,600 rpm. I adjusted the governor to control engine at 3,700 rpm and the performance increased dramatically. Unfortunately I am never happy, if I can extract more performance, so a 6 bladed impeller followed and performance improved significantly. While Ariens limits the LCT/AX engine to 3,700 rpm, LCT limit the engine to 3,900 rpm. So toward the end of last season my engine got upgraded to the 3,900 rpm and engine power improved again. That increase from 3,700 to 3,900 rpm is only an 8% increase. The real experts on here have suggested, based upon their actual experience, that increasing the impeller rpm significantly through gearing changes has proved a further performance improver for them. So this year my crank impeller pulley was increased from 2.75" to 3.25" which at 3,900 rpm increases the impeller speed from 1,181 to 1,447 rpm using an actual laser measure. I do not know what effect this will have, and I am hoping for even more performance. However, the naysayers are already saying my machine will not be able to throw more than 10" of light snow.

I have no idea of your experience to backup your claims, but I have documented my experience in thinking that more rpm to a point will increase power and performance while reliability is maintained. But I am into the unknown on very high impeller rpm with a huge impeller (14" diameter but also over 4" wide and over 4" deep), Honda are into higher rpm impeller speed but with a smaller impeller size.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Basically running it out of its "Power Band" meaning running it out of its "Torque Band".
Most of the engines are designed for the power/torque band to be around 3100 RPM's. 
That is done with the camshaft profiles and intake exhaust valve and port sizes, Venturi size to keep airflow at certain flow rates. The don't want the engine to have to over rev so they wont blow them up or wear them out as fast.
As we know overhead valve design can breath much better than flat or "L" head design and combustion chamber design is better with less "Quench" area to prevent detonation, therefore allowing higher compression and more power and efficiency, and better fuel economy.
Your higher engine RPM will get you more Horse Power, that is the amount of work that can be done over a given amount of time, where-as Torque is the "Twisting Force". That is the actual power that is produced at the crankshaft.
Most of the new engines are now rated at their "Torque" now instead of the "Horse power" like the older engines.
Your impeller size and speed is where the difference comes from, when you measure the "blade tip speed" and amount of volume it can consume and discharge. The manufacturers have been experimenting with them to see what works best, so there are so many different sizes now to compare with, some work better than others.
So to spin that impeller at very high speeds it takes the Torque to spin it, which can easily be changed with different pulley sizes.
Your higher horsepower will work as long as you have the Torque to go with it, but when you loose the Torque, there goes your power output.
Like comparing a Diesel Engine to a Gas Engine. Your diesel has more Torque, but at a slower speed, so the Horsepower rating is lower. The Diesel can pull a heavier load up the hill, but at a slower speed.
You are right about an engine manufacturer "Specking" their engines for safety and longevity at a lower amount of speed and output. Like automobiles, auto manufacturers did that because of the insurance companies years ago, now they are raising their numbers for sales.
A lot of my experience goes back to the 70's, 80's, and 90's up to present with OHV engines. They were produced back then but not by the popular engine manufacturers of that time that most people knew of. Your Honda, Yamaha, and Kawasaki Engines were some of them back then that most people never heard of back then, and they were made in America.
One of your main components you have to worry about with your higher RPM's is your Connecting Rod and its bearings plus rod cap bolts. The higher the speed, the higher "Reciprical" force, meaning "Back and Forth" strain on it, causing it to stretch and eventually break, and as long as the valve springs are strong enough to not allow "Valve Float".


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## rslifkin (Mar 5, 2018)

For some of the engines, the power curves are published. LCT only publishes for the Gen II engines, not the Gen III, but it's probably close. Generally you'd want to use the torque curve to calculate horsepower and run it right up to the point where HP starts to drop off. That'll give you the most snow volume moved (HP is a measure of work done over time and higher impeller speed can move more snow as well as throw further) and if you over-load it, it'll start to bog down into its torque peak anyway. If the machine is underpowered already, raising the RPM won't really help. But if it's got enough power that it's rarely seeing full throttle, it's likely that higher RPM will give better performance.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

installed # 117 .46 jet today


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## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

look at impellers from the angle of "tip speed" like a prop airplane guy.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

Darby said:


> In a related note, look at impellers from the angle of "tip speed" like a prop airplane guy. Tho math isn't my forte' I figure roughly:
> 
> 12 inch impeller, 3600 rpm = 11,400 feet
> per min. = 130 mph
> ...


I think your figures do not take into consideration the gear reduction of the engine pulley and the impeller pulley. I think my 14" impeller is running at about 60 mph when engine speed is 3,900 rpm. This is based upon my engine pulley being driven at 3,900 engine speed where the 3.25" engine pulley drives the 8.5" impeller pulley at 1447 rpm and gives about 60 mph tip speed for the impeller. I think the change in drive ratio is 2.69, so dividing the number you provided (14" at 3900 rpm = 162 mph) by 2.69 gives 60 mph impeller speed.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Literally the only small engine I've ever put a tach on of any sort was my Tecumseh hmsk and it was only to confirm it was running fast enough but not too fast because I didn't want to hurt it's fragile feelings.

Any other I set my how it seems to run. Well, aside from my generators that I use a frequency meter to make sure I'm close to 60hz. I can usually tell when an engine is happy.

I'm curious why so many run fixed jets instead of a variable jet? I bought an adjustable main jet for my predator but haven't swapped it in yet.

Are fixed jets more consistent with temperature or something?


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## legarem (Sep 9, 2017)

Town said:


> I see that you are correct on the engine rpm for the max torque on the LCT engines. That of course is 500 to 600 rpm higher than other current engines. I don't agree with your other observations, since they seem to be taken from the side valve (SV) engine era and we are now in the OHV era. The SV engines had very poor breathing due to the inefficient design of the valves to combustion chamber. So max torque did roughly coincide with max power and the engine would tend to follow your description. Increasing engine rpm would do nothing to improve power.
> 
> But you are not correct for OHV engines and the way they develop power since they do not suffer from poor breathing and keep developing more power as engine speed increases. The camshaft timing and valve spring characteristics and other engine flow characteristics will limit power increases at some point, and the strength and design of some components will limit engine rpm due to failure of components. So from this we can be assured that engine rpm spec'd by the manufacturer will be safe for the engine and the engine will develop more power at the spec'd max.
> 
> ...


I have the same snowblower with same mods done. Last year I adjusted the motor so it revved more. I've done it by ear so I didn't really know the RPM number. This summer I bought a RPM meter to adjust my lawnmower. Yesterday, I tried it on my snowblower and saw it was running at 3950 RPM. I agree with Town about the benefits. With my modified Ariens with a Honda GX390, this gave me the same results. From 3600 RPM to 3900 RPM, there's a good difference with snow projection.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

1132le said:


> installed # 117 .46 jet today


great.
how do you like it?
I know you havent tested it in snow, but how is it starting and idling,running?


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

1132le said:


> 5000 hrs good deflection
> 20 hrs per winter of use lol
> 
> 
> ...


--------------------------------------------------------
LOL I *LOVED *this post.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Town said:


> I see that you are correct on the engine rpm for the max torque on the LCT engines. That of course is 500 to 600 rpm higher than other current engines. I don't agree with your other observations, since they seem to be taken from the side valve (SV) engine era and we are now in the OHV era. The SV engines had very poor breathing due to the inefficient design of the valves to combustion chamber. So max torque did roughly coincide with max power and the engine would tend to follow your description. Increasing engine rpm would do nothing to improve power.
> 
> But you are not correct for OHV engines and the way they develop power since they do not suffer from poor breathing and keep developing more power as engine speed increases. The camshaft timing and valve spring characteristics and other engine flow characteristics will limit power increases at some point, and the strength and design of some components will limit engine rpm due to failure of components. So from this we can be assured that engine rpm spec'd by the manufacturer will be safe for the engine and the engine will develop more power at the spec'd max.
> 
> ...


Can You point me to the pulley you bought-are using? I am assuming its a dual pulley. I just dont see them. 

thats a Huge change from 2.75 to 3.25 surprised you didnt try 3.0...but hey...its gonna sound like a honda now....those things spin the imp high. WGAF about the naysayers. no need to correct all the people who cant understand.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

harry398 said:


> Can You point me to the pulley you bought-are using? I am assuming its a dual pulley. I just dont see them.
> 
> thats a Huge change from 2.75 to 3.25 surprised you didnt try 3.0...but hey...its gonna sound like a honda now....those things spin the imp high. WGAF about the naysayers. no need to correct all the people who cant understand.


The Ariens engine pulley for the impeller is special. I bought a 3.25 pulley and had a machine shop make it fit, about $200 i think. A 3.0 dual pulley may be better but the 3.25 works very well.

My engine is running at 3,900 and the impeller at 1,447 rpm. The engine feels great and the impeller is louder than the engine. Blows all types of snow well.


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Town said:


> The Ariens engine pulley for the impeller is special. I bought a 3.25 pulley and had a machine shop make it fit, about $200 i think. A 3.0 dual pulley may be better but the 3.25 works very well.
> 
> My engine is running at 3,900 and the impeller at 1,447 rpm. The engine feels great and the impeller is louder than the engine. Blows all types of snow well.


awesome!!!


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## PhilThefarmer (Dec 21, 2020)

why did it took him 2 years to install a jet on a carb?


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

PhilThefarmer said:


> why did it took him 2 years to install a jet on a carb?


why did you ask how to adjust the hm80 carb here
when you could watch a video or research it yourself its all over the internet 1 1/4 turns out hi speed 1 turn out low speed then adjust as needed
I had health issues you want my farking drs number
wait why do you care?


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## PhilThefarmer (Dec 21, 2020)

1132le said:


> why did you ask how to adjust the hm80 carb here
> when you could watch a video or research it yourself its all over the internet 1 1/4 turns out hi speed 1 turn out low speed then adjust as needed
> I had health issues you want my farking drs number
> wait why do you care?


I didn't ask how to adjust an hm80 jet here, I think you are talking about the wrong person


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

PhilThefarmer said:


> I didn't ask how to adjust an hm80 jet here, I think you are talking about the wrong person











carb tuning


so, now that my ariens is running, it is time to tune the carb, it will sometime stall when being put at full throttle, there are 2 adjusting screw on the carb, one is probablyt the low speed and the other one, the high speed. it is a tecusmeh hm80, the carb is original, what is the best...




www.snowblowerforum.com


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

@Town you're running a 3.25" and a 8.5" pulley with a 14" impeller?

How does the machine handle packed wet snow?


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

ChrisJ said:


> @Town you're running a 3.25" and a 8.5" pulley with a 14" impeller?
> 
> How does the machine handle packed wet snow?


like confeti


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> @Town you're running a 3.25" and a 8.5" pulley with a 14" impeller?
> 
> How does the machine handle packed wet snow?


No problem at all. It throws more snow a little farther. We don't usually get dry fluffy snow, it is usually a bit wet. At the EOD the high salt content creates very wet snow that my machine clears easily at a good clip. We don't get snow much over a foot very often but I remove the snow on the narrow side of driveway that is frozen and crusted easily, and that would be about 2 feet or so. I like the fast engine speed and high impeller speed and 6 blade impeller, they work well together to increase throughput, using a higher gear.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Town said:


> No problem at all. It throws more snow a little farther. We don't usually get dry fluffy snow, it is usually a bit wet. At the EOD the high salt content creates very wet snow that my machine clears easily at a good clip. We don't get snow much over a foot very often but I remove the snow on the narrow side of driveway that is frozen and crusted easily, and that would be about 2 feet or so. I like the fast engine speed and high impeller speed and 6 blade impeller, they work well together to increase throughput, using a higher gear.


Your machine has two 4L sized belts on the impeller I assume?


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

ChrisJ said:


> Your machine has two 4L sized belts on the impeller I assume?


Yes the stock factory belts. With the 3.25" pulley the belts are a bit short, so I increased the adjustment slot in the idler arm so the idler pulley can be moved farther from the impeller pulley so stock belt fits properly. I also increased the width and diameter (1 1/8") of the brake actuator wheel to get a smoother clutch actuation using Ariens plastic skid shoe material forced fit with a bushing on the retaining shaft with stock clip. No noise or roughness in clutch application.


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## PhilThefarmer (Dec 21, 2020)

1132le said:


> carb tuning
> 
> 
> so, now that my ariens is running, it is time to tune the carb, it will sometime stall when being put at full throttle, there are 2 adjusting screw on the carb, one is probablyt the low speed and the other one, the high speed. it is a tecusmeh hm80, the carb is original, what is the best...
> ...


I asked on this forum, because there are people with good knowledge I can trust


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

tested the new jet today only 7 inches
ran crisp and clean no more hunting
started 1 pull cold or hot
loved the new higher 3950 rpm with the bigger jet
looked to be 60 feet plus throwing to me motor sounded hungry best its ever run very pleased


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

1132le said:


> tested the new jet today only 7 inches
> ran crisp and clean no more hunting
> started 1 pull cold or hot
> loved the new higher 3950 rpm with the bigger jet
> looked to be 60 feet plus throwing to me motor sounded hungry best its ever run very pleased



117 in that 414?


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

harry398 said:


> 117 in that 414?


yes 117 .46 ran so well


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

awesome! what year is your machine? thats a 28 platinum right?


I have the 105ish--.041 in my tiny 306..lol...it hasnt been bogged yet. need a good test.


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## Town (Jan 31, 2015)

1132le said:


> tested the new jet today only 7 inches
> ran crisp and clean no more hunting
> started 1 pull cold or hot
> loved the new higher 3950 rpm with the bigger jet
> looked to be 60 feet plus throwing to me motor sounded hungry best its ever run very pleased


Congratulations on getting the performance you wanted from the new 117 main jet.


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## legarem (Sep 9, 2017)

1132le said:


> yes 117 .46 ran so well


Did you bought your main jet at Ariens dealer or it's a Honda main jet ?


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

nwcove said:


> i drilled the jet out on my 208 cc clone and upped the rpm to 4000. just hope i don't end up eating the flywheel. :surprise:


One screw and a bit of Chinese applied epoxy holds that magnet in place.
The valves float on a clone around 4500 to 5000 rpm and they won;t spin any faster ( unless you put heavier springs in )

The real danger is if the ignition coil leg hits the flywheel.
Then they are hand grenades.

In the old timey times....
We used to use the flywheels off the GVX Honda mowers because they were smooth and has the magnet cast into the flywheel so they could not fail at high RPM.








If you look REAL close at that engine and just about every other clone mower engine these days you will recognize that valve cover...
If you find an iron flywheel around 5 pounds on a Chinese mower that has a blade brake you have a much stronger and safer flywheel for a hot rod clone

The Honda flywheel in engine above weighs 3 pounds..
Stock iron is about 5 pounds.
Different mowers made of different materials weigh more or less than 3 pounds.

_*Danger Will Robinson !!!!!*_
A 208 and most 212 engines are crap shoots.
You may have a standard flywheel taper and you may not.
You need to closely examine the fit of the flywheel and NEVER put together an miss match engine.

You can put a standard Honda Clone crank in any 196, 208 or 212.
This will give you a 196 or 208cc engine ( 68 or 70mm bores are the two common standards ) but with the right taper.
You can use, mix match all manner of parts but the flywheels are the dangerous bits so make sure everything is correct and tight to avoid this.
The other hot rod trick from the old timey times was the use of valve springs from a Honda G200 flat head.
A stock GX spring is about 10 pounds, a G motor has 18 pound springs.
In that configuration the GX engines can spin to 6000 rpm in relatively stock form.
This was a scary combination and most racing leagues banned anyone using an iron flywheel in anything but a box stock engine.

Old thread from Bob's 4 cycle.





Honda FW Strength


Cool, first thread. I'll seize the opportunity to post something thoughtful... Is the genuine gx200 flywheel a safe replacement for the clones shoddy flywheels? Last time i was on nr racings website, they were offering it a an option on their motors... opinions?




4cycle.com




Guys were even suspect of Honda flywheels.

Your Mileage may vary.
But you were warned...


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

legarem said:


> Did you bought your main jet at Ariens dealer or it's a Honda main jet ?



I use Honda style jets in my LCT 306. I assume the 414 will be the same.

OMB warehouse is where I got my assortments.https://www.ombwarehouse.com/search.php?search_query=jet&category=14118


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

legarem said:


> Did you bought your main jet at Ariens dealer or it's a Honda main jet ?


it was a clone jet somebody sent me a link its not a honda jet they dont look the same
the clone jet looked just like the lct jet


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

harry398 said:


> awesome! what year is your machine? thats a 28 platinum right?
> 
> 
> I have the 105ish--.041 in my tiny 306..lol...it hasnt been bogged yet. need a good test.


yes 28 inch i think its a 2015 had low hrs i got it used for 900 thought i paid a 100 to much
byt it was limited edtion with the 16 inch xtracs and 414cc motor so i paid it


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

1132le said:


> it was a clone jet somebody sent me a link its not a honda jet they dont look the same
> the clone jet looked just like the lct jet


That's not a good thing.

Something like this will serve you better as you can do both jets.









62 Pieces Pin Vises Hand Drill Bits, Micro Mini Twist Set Vice Rotary Tools With | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 62 Pieces Pin Vises Hand Drill Bits, Micro Mini Twist Set Vice Rotary Tools With at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com





Buy some spare correct for your carb jets and work at it...


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

NOS said:


> That's not a good thing.
> 
> Something like this will serve you better as you can do both jets.
> 
> ...


its not a good thing the jets match?
its not a good thing it runs perfect now
if wanted to drill jets out i would have i do research i was running nos in 1982 mr nos
its not a cart its a snowblower
iam all set


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

1132le said:


> its not a good thing the jets match?
> its not a good thing it runs perfect now
> if wanted to drill jets out i would have i do research i was running nos in 1982 mr nos
> its not a cart its a snowblower
> iam all set


Your guessing.
You buy one jet its not the same, you have no idea how it flows fuel.
You could be richer than you need, but thats OK if its better than what you had.

You start on the low side, get that right, then you move onto the high side and you have both right.
Just guessing and change the main is like playing darts in the dark.

There are options you don't even explore


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

Hey man....he went up a few from stock
He isnt running pro stock drags.

He says it runs better. Up to others to use that as valuable info, or not


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Now and then I used to get guys that would ask me to tune snow machines. ( I charged a lot too )
Sometimes you get it perfect and the guy is not happy keeps bringing it back.
For those guys I would armour all the seats and with a bit of luck they would not come back and leave me alone.
The machine was not faster it just seemed like it. ( I can not make a Phazer catch and bigger machine no matter what I do to jets and pipes and ports )

Without being methodical about it and testing verifying your just guessing and screwing around.
I listen up and down my suburban street to all manner of power equipment slightly out of tune.
Sometimes I fix them sometimes my help is declined.
Sometimes I push their stuff home from the road, fix it and push it back into their yards without letting them know it was me that fixed it.

Most people do not care how well tuned something is as long as it does what they want.
That's fine...
But if you get it right, you make more power, produce less pollution and extend the life of the equipment.
its snow know and I know my neighbour will bring out his blower after supper.
Its lean and misses, the muffler glows I expect to see it at the road one of these days with a burnt valve.
He is happy with it as is...
I can tell by how it sounds and smells and it drives me nuts...

This mixed brand of jet thing drives me wild.
You can get a bigger jet from a clone carb that flows less fuel than a smaller Honda.
I seen it I know it happens because of the way they are drilled and surface finish.
I have measure it on the dyno....


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

NOS said:


> Your guessing.
> You buy one jet its not the same, you have no idea how it flows fuel.
> You could be richer than you need, but thats OK if its better than what you had.
> 
> ...


the only 1 guessing is you
i talked with someone else who already did the leg work drilling the jets
i already knew of the adjustable jet iam cheap not spending 30 bucks so you are 0 for 2
did you read it sounds crisp and clean hungry
why dont you install an impeller kit on that stellar 4 hp mtd then dyno it see if you lose power from the kit
impeller kits been around 15 plus years where ya been sbf legend


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

First half makes sense, not sure who or what you are referring too on the second part.
I never met anyone that could tune an engine by ear.

Your Mileage may vary....


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

This is not a Honda manual its from Tillotson parts of it are as old as the 1960s
Read pages 3 through 5 and carefully observe the the low side of the carb at low and intermediate power levels.
Make note of how all the carb circuitry is in action at full throttle....


http://gofree.indigo.ie/~vire7/pdf/carb.pdf


Adjustments require more than a single screw or in this case with the Honda jet.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)




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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

Internet is full of advice


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## harry398 (Jun 22, 2021)

NOS...nitrous oxide.
a jet change will richen/lean the circuit at full throttle.
snowblowers are used at full throttle. full load. jet change will impact where its needed.

there is no concern for driveability or off corner response. the pilot jet helps the idle circuit and part throttle. not the concern here.

let it go man.....


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

harry398 said:


> NOS...nitrous oxide.
> 
> let it go man.....


New Old Stock...

Why do a job right from start to finnish when half done is good enough.

Why teach a man to fish when there is a grocery store up the road?

Why teach anything at all.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Because good enough is good enough.


Honestly carburated small engines are all about good enough. Fixed ignition timing, fixed fuel jets etc.

If it idles good and it runs good in normal use with no hesitation isn't that what we want in a snow blower? 

I'm sorry but there's a point of going too far.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

harry398 said:


> NOS...nitrous oxide.
> a jet change will richen/lean the circuit at full throttle.
> snowblowers are used at full throttle. full load. jet change will impact where its needed.
> 
> ...


dont bother he is so far down the rabbit hole he couldn't get out with a backhoe 
posting booklets from the 60s completely irrelevant 
lct carbs are idle or full rpm lol
i wonder if that link will help dial in my 750 dfdp holley lol
no advice would have been better
the new sbf legend must know northeast


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

To be fair, at 3600+ rpm at no load those carbs are far from full throttle. The butterfly is almost closed.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

ChrisJ said:


> To be fair, at 3600+ rpm at no load those carbs are far from full throttle. The butterfly is almost closed.


to be more fair its on the hi- speed circuit thats all that matters
and iam 3950 rpm


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

mods please close this thread just tried to help others


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## NOS (Dec 3, 2021)

When your favourite tool is a hammer every problem looks like a nail.


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## 1132le (Feb 23, 2017)

NOS said:


> When your favourite tool is a hammer every problem looks like a nail.


 you seem to miss alot perhaps you need a new favorite like a sledge hammer
yaafp


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