# New Drift Breaker!



## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

I brought my new Drift Breaker home yesterday. I still can't believe it. On a whim, I entered " Drift Breaker" into the FB Marketplace search window. I wanted to see if any might have been for sale in the country. Well one _did_ turn up.., two towns away, and for $50.00. The ad had been up for 23 weeks, but I thought I'd send a message anyway. The seller stated that it was still for sale.

It's a 26 inch machine, model 536.909800, code 8275. It's a non-runner, but the engine has good compression. The electric starter works. The control cables (except the impeller cable) are stuck. I've already removed them, and will start spraying WD-40 into them. I also removed the carburetor for cleaning. I had to free up the impeller control rod. It was gunked up. I tried moving the transmission lever from neutral, but it didn't seem to want to move. I didn't force it. I'll have a better look when I have a chance. Hopefully the linkage is stuck. Or maybe a bound yoke, or fork, if this transmission has them.

No more snow blowers!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Another great find, should be good for hours and hours of entertainment  

It looks like the chute deflector mechanism may be an after market unit, or did they come with these from the factory. 

The third stage on these really make them stand out, especially when they have the optional 2 light kit mounted on top of the bucket.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

You surely want some XTrac on that beast ....


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## Clutch Cargo (Dec 27, 2015)

Is that deflector control original??


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Thanks! I could be wrong, but I believe that the deflector is original. I forgot to mention the the p/o installed rubber impeller paddles. The air filter assembly, and heater box are missing. I may be able to make a box from metal sheet.

Yes, I will be picking up a set of XTracs at some point.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

There are no air filters on snowblowers. They will clog with moisture, freeze, then starve the engine of air. Plus no grass clippings or dust to worry about in the winter.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

JLawrence, thanks for letting me know. One less thing to have to pick up.

I found this vid showing the deflector control.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...=K3O6GIwzMb8&usg=AOvVaw2JjtZ9aEScQ4bj4q9OAkdA


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

Cool, that was a rare feature back then.

Here is a video comparing an old Craftsman to a new one


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Nice vid. You are right. I like the headlight assembly.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

That looks like a pre Murray unit, maybe AMF as it was a friction disc unit.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

HCBPH, I read about your splitting the ground, and impeller engagement controls, along with your pic of the drive end in another thread. My guess is that you installed another hand lever on the left handlebar to engage the impeller. Is this correct? Was the original cable long enough to re-use?


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

schneetag said:


> HCBPH, I read about your splitting the ground, and impeller engagement controls, along with your pic of the drive end in another thread. My guess is that you installed another hand lever on the left handlebar to engage the impeller. Is this correct? Was the original cable long enough to re-use?


I happened to have another cable from a parts machine which I used on the auger control and left the original cable on the drive. I added a 2d handle to the left handlebar, drilled a hole in the white handlebar panel like on the right side. There's a thread on how I did it on the forum and it goes into detail on the various changes I did to make it work. You can reach out to me if you have questions.
Note though this is on a blower with the Tecumseh transmission and not a friction disk. IIRC the controls are the same but I've not done the mod to a machine of your machines vintage.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Thanks! Yes, the controls are the same. I had seen a close up pic of the modded controls on your blower. I'm planning on using a handlebar mounted locking lever for the auger similar to those on Gravely 2 wheelers. I will also leave the drive lever as is. 
For now though, I'm still working on freeing up the cables that I removed. Two (throttle, and chute adjustment) are working again, but the drive, and auger cables are still works in progress. I also need to open the pan so that I can check the friction disc, and linkage. The shift lever doesn't want to move out of neutral. The disc may just be gunked up, and stuck on the shaft. This was the case with the shift link.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Because I haven't opened up the bottom of the Drift Breaker yet, I'm assuming that whereas I release the clutch to engage the 1964 blower, I would depress, and hold the clutch lever against the handlebar in order to engage the Drift Breaker. 
Gravely 2 wheelers have a similar trait, with old ones you move the directional lever forward to reverse, and rearward to move forward. At some point Gravely reversed it so that forward is forward, and backward is reverse.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

If you need a cable, here's one but it will take a slight mod. Check out the chute cables on a Drift Breaker. It's around the right length but it has a loop on both ends. You'd need to make a clevis or something similar to attach it to a handle control but that's easy to do.


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

HCBPH said:


> If you need a cable, here's one but it will take a slight mod.


 cable 49551?


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Thanks, guys. HCBPH, I don't see a pic, or link. I'm still trying to get them moving again, but it's entirely possible that I will need to buy at least one new cable. The chute cable is moving now, but the throttle, and ground drive cables are still frozen. I have been slowly feeding them PB Blaster, looping them with their ends up, and hanging them in the garage.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

If you check out a cable for the auger or drive control, check out 49551MA, that is a replacement for an adjustable chute. As I said it has a loop on both ends so you have to make up a clevis or something else to attach it to a handle but it's length should work.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Great information. Thanks, HCBPH. While the chute cable is working, it still binds up as the cable gets close to it's end on one side. I'm going to install it, and see if it reaches this point when in operation. If so, I'll need to replace it. It shouldn't be hard to make something up for the ends of a new one.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

I lucked out and found the heater box, and on/off (ignition switch) for the Drift Breaker on ebay. It arrived today. It's in great condition. Some surface rust on the inside, but I can take care of that. I had a cap on hand which fit the large hole. The on/off switch works too, but one spade connector is missing, and the other is loose. I'm going to try to repair it.


















The switch works


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

I had a chance to do a little work on the Drift Breaker. I re-installed the now UN-frozen cables, the carburetor, along with the linkages, and replaced what turned out to be the "petrified" (stiff as boards) fuel lines. I also found out why the shifter doesn't move when I removed the rear plate. The shaft on which the friction disc moves has rust on it. There is rust other places as well, including the one chain, and sprocket. It looks like it was left out as there were leaves, and eggcorns in there as well. I'll be working on freeing everything up. 

I also found out that this blower didn't have an on-off ignition switch, but that "stop" is incorporated into the throttle control. Moving the throttle to "stop" grounds out the ignition within the throttle linkage. Since the heater box that I picked up came with an "on/off" ignition switch, and I wound up buying a new one I'm going to wire it up through the new switch.


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

I had a 70 horse Johnson 3 cylinder in line outboard boat engine once, I was going over the engine checking it out for the up coming season and I found a fuel line just like that.
Hard as a rock! I said good catch Ed, Pat on the back and replaced it with some I had laying around for my pickup truck.
It took a short piece and made an almost 90* turn.
I put it on and tested it with my water hookup outside. Revved up the engine over and over it ran great.
The next week I took it to my boat club and planned on fishing the Sandy Hook area that day.
Put it in the water revved it up fine. Started out slow for the no wake zone then floored it the engine died just stopped!
Started right back up but I could not move except only under a real slow speed.
I took it back home. 

I checked everything I could think of and everything was good.
The only thing I "fixed" was that short hard fuel line. 
I put the old hard as a rock fuel line back on during the week took it the next weekend to the ramp and all was good again.

It turned out that the fuel line was supposed to be as hard as a rock, made like that because of the angle it took. 
The line I used was too soft and on full acceleration, under load ( in the water) it would suck shut.
Not under load the line I replaced it with was fine. I never seen a fuel line as hard as that was. You think it would do that all the time?

Not saying yours is supposed to be hard, but I learned something with that "fix" I did.
Something as simple like that took my valuable fishing time away from me. 

Maybe someone reading this will not make the same mistake as I did.
I sort of learned that if it is not broke don't fix it too. 

It looks like yours needs a lot of TLC in there.
Is that lock/snap ring supposed to be where it is on the shaft?


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

I've never heard of a hardline by design like that. I guess it would make sense though if it needs to make a ~90 degree turn. Luckily the line I replaced doesn't make any sharp turns like that.
The short piece of line running straight down from the bottom of the tank to the fuel on/off switch was just as hard, so I think they were both just "cooked".

Yes, it's going to take a little TLC to have it working again. The good thing is that the friction disc looks good. The e-clip does belong there. You can see the recess in the shaft for it. It looks like it's a stop for the friction disc assembly since it's lined up with the outside edge of the plate.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

The Drift Breaker is officially a runner! I de-rusted and freed up the flex disc, installed the key switch, and heater box, put gas in the tank, hit the start button and it fired right up. There was a minute of wondering why it didn't shut down when I turned the key to the off position. I had to pull the plug wire to stop it. Checking the wiring, I realized that I had to remove a wire from it's factory position, and run it directly to ground from the key switch. All was well after I connected it to ground.

Everything works as it should. I found out that I have to hold the selector in reverse while backing up. It makes sense. Reverse has a detent on the '64.

It misses a lot. I'm going to pull the flywheel (my Kohlers, and Onans have spoiled me with quick access to their points) tomorrow to check, clean, and gap the points. They are likely worn, dirty, out of spec., or all three.

I think I see transistorized ignition in this engine's future. I don't see myself removing the engine shroud, and flywheel every time I want to check the points.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

I finally had a chance to pull the flywheel. I'm glad I did. The screw that is supposed to hold the condenser in place was more than half way unscrewed, so the the condenser was out of position, and flopping around. It's case was shiny, and slightly beveled where the flywheel magnets have been making contact with it. Also, the aluminum points cover, and retainer clip were loose, and skewed due to one of the retainer clip's ends not being attached to anything. The magnets were making contact with the points cover as well. The points themselves were pitted. I didn't bother to check their gap before I pulled them. It might have been interesting to see though.

I was hoping that I could replace the points, and condenser with a Nova II type ignition module so that I wouldn't have to pull the flywheel anymore, but that won't be possible since reading that these modules are not recommended for use with flywheels having multiple magnets, which my flywheel turned out to have around it's inner circumference. I'll be ordering new points, condenser, and a spark plug. The engine should run fine after replacing, and securing everything.

Now I have to wonder if the simple fixes I found are the reasons that this blower found it's way from a previous owner to the person that I bought it from.


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## Toro-8-2-4 (Dec 28, 2013)

Nice project and good luck with it all. Let us know how it does when get to snow test it.!!!


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Thanks. Will do!


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Just wondering if anyone might know the series number that my 8 H.P. Tecumseh engine would be. The engine's spec. plate is missing. I _believe_ that I ordered the correct parts, but knowing at least the series number would be a good thing to know. The blower's model and serial number are 536.909800 8275. I believe that it would have been built in the late '70s-early '80s. Thanks!


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

schneetag said:


> Just wondering if anyone might know the series number that my 8 H.P. Tecumseh engine would be. The engine's spec. plate is missing. I _believe_ that I ordered the correct parts, but knowing at least the series number would be a good thing to know. The blower's model and serial number are 536.909800 8275. I believe that it would have been built in the late '70s-early '80s. Thanks!


I think your engine is 143.686092 model number. I think you're being generous on the age of your unit. Craftsman (Murray) blowers from the 70's had the Tecumseh transmission in them, and this one predates them. I'd have to guess the 60's on yours. One3 way to tell it's not a 50's is there is a drive control handle on it. Earlier ones had a lever down by the engine you turned to engage the auger.
Hope that helps.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

be careful with fuel line in marine usage , there is a deference between auto and marine, marine fuel line starts being harder due to how it's made,
also if the coast guard stops you and dose a safety check finding auto products such as starters, alternators, carbs, fuel pumps ,fuel line on a boat your day is over, ordered off the water .till a proper repair is made. 
you would be surprised at how many boat fires started from just such half way cheap repairs .


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Thanks, HCBPH. The engine number you provided was a big help. I just googled the number and clicked on "Images". A photo of a blower looking just like mine appeared so I clicked on the title. It turned out to be an old thread from here. The o/p included the blower model number which turned out to be the same as mine (536.909800) and indicated that it was a 1978. I think it was one of your posts in which you said that Craftsman went from friction discs to transmissions, and then back to friction discs? If I recalled correctly, this would explain my blower's still having a friction disc drive. There was also another engine model number mentioned, HM80-155170E. Thanks again. 





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Redirect Notice






www.google.com


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Based on the last info I have on the models and operation, pre Tecumseh transmissions were set up like yours on the drive. I had a 536.90515 which was a slightly older one than yours, one commonality is they both engage the drive by sliding the shifter over then push it forward. They then went with tensioners and handles that engage the drive like on the Murray and later MTD's.
I honestly don't believe that this machine was built in 78, 68 maybe but I don't think it was 78 but that's just my opinion.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

I just googled 143.686092 again, and this time the Parts Tree site came up complete with the cross reference between Tecumseh, and Craftsman complete with a great IPL. It looks exactly like my engine! I saved it to my "Favorites". Thanks again!

I don't know if this helps, or not but while my blower has the friction disc type drive selector which runs horizontal, then forward, it also has the handlebar grip that needs to be depressed against the handlebar in order to apply tension to the belt, and engage the drive.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Like I said, I think yours falls somewhere between these 2 machines. First one is from the late 50's to early 60's while the second one is from the 70's based on the info I've found on them.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Yes, the one on the left looks like my ~ 1964, and the one on the right looks like my DB.


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## 3vanman (Nov 21, 2017)

Ziggy65 said:


> Here is a video comparing an old Craftsman to a new one


Just watching that video, and I noticed it was a Tecumseh on that 'New" snow blower. I believe that would have been the last version of a Tecumseh powered Craftsman, as the next series had the Briggs engine, rest of the machine was the same.
And that Briggs powered "Craftsman" style was around for the next 15 years or so, until Sears was no more in Canada. Now Craftsman is carried by Lowes/Rona here in Canada, and the newer machine is even "lighter duty".
The Craftsman II built in the 90's may not have been as heavy as a Drift Breaker", but they definitely have far more metal in them than the next model.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

Left one has a Lauson engine, with Lauson being bought out by TEC in 56 so should predate that. From what I see yours is newer than that one.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

Well, I ordered the right parts. They arrived today. I'm looking forward to starting the DB up again after they're installed. It should run good. Here's a pic I took of the flywheel, and condenser. The bright part along the left side of the condenser is the flattened area from the flywheel magnets making contact. I also found a piece of it attached to the underside of one of the magnets. The magnet faces are nicely polished, and luckily, in good shape. Judging by the amount the condenser case is flattened, it's had to be like this for a while.


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## schneetag (Jan 3, 2021)

I just came across another little surprise, and thought I'd pass it on. I decided to prep the new Tecumseh branded points (made in Taiwan) by giving them a little scuff with 1000 grit, and degreasing them. When I looked at them, rather than being flat, they were both concave in the middle. The problem is that being like this they only make a direct connection with each other around their outer circumferences. It also creates the likelihood of arcing in the middle areas which then leads to early pitting. I wound up holding them together in their closed position, and sanding them with folded 1000 grit until they were flat across their surface. Then I cleaned, and degreased them.

This is something you may want to keep an eye out for the next time you replace your Tecumseh points.


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