# Craftsman/Sears 536.886540 won't start



## phem0r (Dec 18, 2017)

Hello all, first post..

I picked up a Craftsman/Sears 5/22 snow blower (Model number 536.886540) from a work colleague for free the other day. He told me that it hasn't been used in several years but run fine when his dad last used it.

To start with i did an oil change(existing oil was black.) and put a new spark plug in it. No start.
I removed the fuel tank, confirmed that fuel does pass through it into the fuel line so it's not blocked.
Removed the fuel line from the bottom of the tank to the carb and confirmed that isn't blocked either.
I pressed the bleed valve on the bottom of the carb and a bunch of green liquid came out, i'm assuming it's that fuel stabilizer stuff.. Anywho i drained all of that out, still no start.
Removed the carb entirely and bought some carb cleaner. Removed the bowl from the carb and it was full of gunk and crap so cleaned that all out and used the nozzle of the carb cleaner spray to clean out all pipe work in the carb like from where the fuel line connect to the bowl, the primer line etc.. Put everything back together and tried again..

Still no luck. I can pump the primer 20 times over and then push the bleed valve on the bottom of the carb and there is no fuel in the bowl at all..

Where do i go next.. Should i just rebuild the carb, buy a new one or is the primer the issue? I put my finger near the end of the primer hose line and pushed the primer in, i can feel the air it's moving..

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

Did you clean the small holes in the jets, if not you can have the bowl full and no gas will get into the engine, Also there are a lot of small passages in the carb that could be blocked, I would just get a new carb for the $15 and call it a day, Sounds like it is pretty badly corroded with green coming out, should not be green even with stabilizer in there, that is more than likely corrosion.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable...341168&hash=item3627cfb4f7:g:O4gAAOSwn25aHvVS


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## phem0r (Dec 18, 2017)

Ah, i didn't think about it possibly being corrosion. The issue i have is that the bowl isn't filling up with fuel at all when pressing the primer. But i guess that can also be caused by some little hole being blocked still too?

Didn't realize a whole replacement carb is $15.. That's the one i'd need right?


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## Dauntae (Nov 10, 2016)

From looking at the craftsman number it looks to be a Tecumseh brand engine, If it is then yes that would be thr correct carb, I find it easier to just put a new one on when rebuilding them so it's just one less thing to worry about. And use the old ones for parts when needed.


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## phem0r (Dec 18, 2017)

Thanks, i pulled up the part number from the manual too and ordered one from Amazon, should be here by Wednesday


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## pchalpin (Mar 31, 2015)

Check to see if the woodruff key is sheared off


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## deezlfan (Nov 8, 2017)

> Ah, i didn't think about it possibly being corrosion. The issue i have is that the bowl isn't filling up with fuel at all when pressing the primer. But i guess that can also be caused by some little hole being blocked still too?


The primer forces fuel from the bowl up into the venturi of the carburetor so if there is no fuel in the bowl using the primer only moves air around. This would indicate to me that the passage that feeds fuel from the carb inlet to the needle valve is clogged. 



> Sounds like it is pretty badly corroded with green coming out, should not be green even with stabilizer in there, that is more than likely corrosion.


Green is usually bad and considering your statements about what came out of the carb, I agree with Dauntae. But I will point out that there are several brands of fuel stabilizers that are green or blue-green in color and when fuel evaporates they will leave a syrupy green residue. Whether it is old stabilizer, algae, corrosion or dirt, it still needs to be cleaned out of there.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

5 horse Tecumseh. Either do a full carb job on it including insuring the bleed holes in the body and on the jet are open or do as suggested - get a replacement. I've done a couple of Oregon carbs on them in the past and they work great. If you are careful in your selection (there are more than 1 type on a 5 hp) it's a direct replacement. Personally I'd do the replacement carb and be done with it.
Green fuel is gunk left over from alcohol enhanced fuel and it will crystalize and plug things up. Wait till you take one apart and find the bowl full of 'green' salt crystals (that's a joke, it's just full of crystalized fuel that's evaporated).


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## THE Wolfman (Feb 15, 2017)

If the bowl had 'gunk' in it, then the needle valve will probably be full of gunk and may block fuel from entering the unit. Time for more cleaning!

If you want to use this video as a visual reference, 



Pay particular attention to the time sections of 4:35 to 4:59, and 10:17 - 10:40 as this (along with the obvious inlet hose connection) covers the area of fuel getting into the carb.

That having been said, buying another carb at this point in the season would not be out of line.


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