# Crafstman 536.881800 augers won't turn, pins fine



## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

As above, after a couple of hours in medium heavy snow, the auger blades stopped turning. The impeller is still turning, so there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the belt or the auger drive pulley. I replaced the belts this year and the key connecting the auger pulley to the impeller shaft was replaced about two years ago. I can manually turn the auger blades about a 1/4 turn or so.

I presume at this point that the problem is in the gear box, but I'm not sure what to do as a next step. I could take off the gear box and open it to see if there is an obvious problem, but I would appreciate some advice at this point.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Mr Fixit (Nov 19, 2013)

Review this great (3) video by a member here.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The above video is for an MTD. Here are some videos for Noma / Murray. It is basically the same thing though.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

+1 with Shryp.

If you can tie down the auger drive (I know) and see it running and the impellers shaft is turning going into the gearbox but the augers aren't you might as well take the gearbox out and tear it down. You have nothing to loose at that point and you might be able to get a couple parts and save it.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Thanks, those were quite helpful. It's nice of folks to take the time to put things like that together.

Tomorrow I will take the gear box apart and see if I can see what the issue is.

The annoying thing is that this blower is only about 5 or 6 years old, so I don't think something like the gearbox should be failing already. The last blower I had lasted for more than 30 years and probably would have lasted longer if it wasn't for some miscommunication about who changed the oil (and who didn't as it turned out). This one has required repairs every year I have owned it, which is far past ridiculous as far as I'm concerned.

*LMHmedchem*


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Well for those of you who voted for stripped worm gear, you win the prize.









It's hard to imagine this level of FUBAR in a blower that is only a few years old.

Part of the answer may be this,








These are the shear pins, which obviously didn't, dispute the obvious level of torque these were under.

...anyway, I am going to replace the worm gear and a few other parts in there and see if I can get it going again.

Can someone recommend the low temp grease and silicone sealant. I will get a new gasket but the only grease they have on the sears website costs almost $60 plus shipping. That seems a bit steep so if someone can recommend an alternative (website link etc), that would be a big help.

I am going to see if I can get the parts at a local small engine repair place I go to, bit if they don't have the parts I will order from Sears. The parts from Sears always seem more expensive than they should be, and they are usually Murry parts anyway. If someone can recommend a better place to get all of the parts, that would be a bit help as well.

This is the list of the parts I am look at getting,

*Craftsman 536.881800** snowblower*

Flat washer
PART NUMBER: 48275, Substitution: 48275MA

Auger gear box gasket
PART NUMBER: 51279, Substitution: 51279MA

Worm gear
PART NUMBER: 51405, Substitution: 51405MA

Key for worm gear
PART NUMBER: 431787, Substitution: 703891 Learn why

Auger shaft
PART NUMBER: 1501307, Substitution: 1501307MA

Strictly speaking, I don't need a new Auger shaft, but for $30 or so I might rather spend the money than try to get the current shaft cleaned up enough to get the new gear on.

If there is anything that you would normally replace but I don't have on the list above, please let me know about that.

Thanks again,

*LMHmedchem*


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I see Amazon has the worm gear on sale for $35 right now.
Amazon.com: Murray 51405MA Worm Gear: Patio, Lawn & Garden



For grease I would look for some 00 grease. It is like a mixture of wheel bearing grease and gear oil.

I would just go with the gear and the grease unless your other parts are worn. Check the bushings to see if they are still tight around the shafts.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Thanks for the tip on the gear.

I need to replace one of the washers because I had to cut it off. It was very difficult to get the gear, washers, and bushings off of the augur shaft. I weighing the time and effort to get the old shaft clean against the $30 cost of buying a new shaft. I always replace keys and such when I have something apart. I don't know if that makes sense, but I have had keys go and it seems like spending the few dollars for new keys while I have it broken down is a good option. 

Do you think I can just re-use the gasket? I can get the specified grease from the manufacturer for $14
GR-132 Portable Tool Grease ($14)
This is the grease that Sears want's $60 for.

Do I need to use a silicone sealant on the gasket? If so, what should I use?

*LMHmedchem*


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If the gasket isn't damaged go ahead. You can toss a little RTV on there if it makes you feel better, but it probably isn't needed.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

_*"Well for those of you who voted for stripped worm gear, you win the prize."

*_That's a "prize" no one wants to win. It just reminds each of us we are only one frozen newspaper or chunk of ice away from being in the same boat. At least the case didn't crack.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Well everything is ordered, I couldn't get any of the parts locally. Everything should be here by Monday, so hopefully I will have things up and running again soon. We were expecting a major storm on Sunday, but it looks like it is going to miss us by a bit, which is not the expected outcome when your blower is down.

I will let you know how things go.

*LMHmedchem*


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

I am getting ready to put this back together again, but I have a question. 

This is the grease that I am using, GR-132 Portable Tool Grease

That was what was listed on the Sears parts page. I'm not sure how much of it to use. The one video that I watched showed the mechanic filling half of the grease box, but he mentioned that this deepened some on the model and manufacturer.

Can someone let me know how much I should fill the case for this Craftsman. I assume it's a Murry, since the replacement parts that Sears sends (belts and such) are Murry parts.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I don't know how much but I do know you want to leave some room. The guys who use gear oil usually fill it up to the fill plugs level when it's sitting normally. That would be about 3/4 ??


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Well after giving the parts a good cleaning, I have discovered that one of the bearing flanges (50304MA)has a crack in it. Is this something I can still use for a few times while I wait for a replacement, or would that cause damage?

I can possible get another one locally, but I'm not sure. We may get major snow starting tomorrow, so it would be nice to get this working.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

It is hard to say for sure. How bad is the crack? Is it split all the way through? Does it fit tight over the shaft?

It might be just fine or it might have enough play in it that is causes issues for you all over again.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

The crack is all the way through, but the bushing has not opened much. It looks like the crack should close up completely when I put the bushing back into the gear case. The fit will be very tight. I guess the question will be how smooth the inside of the bushing is at that point. Brass is soft, so if the crack closes, the surface may still be quite smooth. It's hard to say.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I doubt the brass is going to harm the shaft. It just has to hold it still and not let it wobble around.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Our weather for Thursday is still unclear, so I will wait a bit. I will put the old bushing in the case and see if I can judge if it is stable or not. I ordered a new one, but I'm not sure when it will get here.

*LMHmedchem*


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Well, my situation has not improved (much), as the saying goes.

So, with yet another blizzard expected yesterday, I decided to put my snow blower back together using the cracked bushing. The replacement I ordered has not yet arrived. Everything went together fine, the gear box turned very smoothly, etc.

When I stated to use it, I quickly realized that I had messed up something because the augers were pushing the snow forward instead of into the impeller. I guess I got the drive gear in backwards. I looked on it pretty carefully and I didn't see any markings for the proper direction, so I guessed that it didn't matter. Wrong guess.

Anyway, it functioned after a fashion and was somewhat of a help but I will have to tear it down again and fix it, which I was going to have to do anyway when the new bushing arrived, so it's not too tragic. Is there any chance that I messed things up by using it with the gear in backwards. In other words, am I going to be ordering another gear? I assume that all I will have to do is open the box and flip the axel over, but my last guess didn't work out too well. Is there a way to tell what the proper direction is?

*LMHmedchem*


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## Mr Fixit (Nov 19, 2013)

Switch your two auger halves right to left and left to right side. Look at the paddles and see how the work surface point up and back?


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Mr Fixit said:


> Switch your two auger halves right to left and left to right side. Look at the paddles and see how the work surface point up and back?


So you are saying that I put the augers in wrong and the gear is fine, or are you saying that I put the gear in wrong, but can fix the gear issue by switching the augers? I actually marked the augers R/L with a sharpie so I wouldn't mix them up, but who knows.

Here is a picture of what it looks like now.








When the auger is running the blades are coming forward and down (looking at the same angle as the picture). If you were looking at the auger axle end on from the left side. the blades are spinning counter clockwise.

When I was just looking at it, I noticed that the auger assembly seemed to be unstable when it was turning. I suddenly noticed that the axle had come out of the bushing on the right side. I have no idea how that could have happened. It doesn't seem like there is near enough play. Everything is still turning, but I have a bad feeling about what that may have done to my new gear. I don't know how long it was running like that.

Let me know if more/different pictures would help.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Your augers are backwards. Compare with other picture. Also imagine something sitting on the ground with the way they turn. It will be pushed out instead of in. It is possible you marked left/right while looking straight at the front and then assembled by thinking of standing behind or vice versa. Also, you might have the inside and outside of each one backwards, though I don't think flipping them upside down will affect the direction they spiral. If the overhang is different though, they might push the outside of the bucket out of the bearing.

When you take things apart bend the auger housing in on each side so that the front shaft is very tight going in. Remember, it will be better to have to push the sides out slightly and have a tight fit than to have extra slop in them from side to side after it is together.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

Well I think I have it working again. I took out the auger assembly and switched the augers. I also replaced the shear pins (again) because one of then was in pretty bad shape, even though it had only been in there one day. I tried bending in the scoop some so there would be less play in the axle, but that didn't seem to do much. There really is quite a bit of side to side slop there. It's almost like the axle isn't long enough. Would it make sense to put some stainless steel washers between the wall of the scoop and the bushing to reduce the gap some? At this point, I won't be shocked if the axle pops out again.

Anyway, I tried it out in the yard and it seems to be working properly again so thanks for all the help.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Mr Fixit (Nov 19, 2013)

Remember that when your augers were backwards, this exerted force opposite from centre so the scoop may have deformed. No you can NOT go ahead and run it with your auger shaft able to fall out like you say. That will blow your gear box wall. Read what Shryp said about "push the sides,,,, and a tight fit,,,"


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

You might want to try using something straight on the ends of the auger housing just to judge how bowed they might be. If it's excessive you might want to try bending them in some more. Washers for now would at least give you some more reliability in not having one pop out but it's not the right way. Getting close to spring and warmer weather and if you have to work in the cold like me maybe the washers for now and then pull it down and do it the right way when it's warmer.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I had to tighten a Troy Bilt and I tipped the scoop on the side when it was apart and leaned into the side. Turned it over and did the same on the other side. This made for a nice tight fit going back together. A couple other members here have suggested using ratchet straps to compress it.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

That strap idea sounds good but I'd still check each side independently as it's unlikely both would bend the same amount coming apart or going back together.


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## LMHmedchem (Feb 5, 2014)

I don't think it's terribly likely that the shaft will come out right away. There is just allot more side to side than I thought there would be and I am afraid that it will come out at some point. Tomorrow I will take some measurements and put a square on the scoop and see if there is anything obvious to report. Nothing looks bent or out of shape, but it can be hard to judge these things by eye.

When I took off the bushing where the axle had popped out, there was allot of grease in the bushing. I put some bearing grease on the end of the axle, but I didn't think I put all that much on. It took a while to clean it out, so maybe I just got too much on there and the axle wouldn't seat properly. The fit is almost air tight and the grease may have prevented the axle from going all the way in. It seems like a better design would be for there to be a bearing on each end with an axle that goes all the way through and is secured on the outside of the scoop. I guess bearings are a bit much to ask for when they used cheep $2 plastic bushings. Both of the old ones were cracked and split, even though they are only a few years old and have only been off the machine once before now.

*LMHmedchem*


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The older Ariens did have brass/bronze bushings that were similar to plastic ones, but they did have the shaft bolted from the outside. I agree that that is a much better design and it holds everything together nice and tight.


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