# Repainting snow blower



## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

Hello everyone my name is Mikey and m new to the forum. I just picked up a used Yard Machines 8/26 snow blower. It has some rust on the front part and on the auger. I have access to a sandblaster at work that I can use and blast it in the yard at work but what paint should I use to repaint it with? Also what sand should I use for the sand blaster? I read that people say I can get quickrete fine sand at Home Depot and use that. Would that be fine? Here's a few pics


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Make sure you read up about sand blasting. Using actual sand in a sand blaster without having a filtered fresh air supply can be hazardous to your health. It's how you get silicosis. 

Silicosis - American Lung Association


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## Blue Hill (Mar 31, 2013)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Make sure you read up about sand blasting. Using actual sand in a sand blaster without having a filtered fresh air supply can be hazardous to your health. It's how you get silicosis.
> 
> Silicosis - American Lung Association


I don't think I'd use quikcrete. It's most likely almost pure silica.
Have you checked Harborfreight? They might sell the actual sandblasting sand. I know Princess Auto up here does, or maybe if your work will let you use the blaster, they might sell you a bag of what they use.
A lot of places use the sand that is silica free, at least up here.
Either way +1 to what K4 said about safety.


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## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

Ok thanks for the helpful info! I will check harbor freight. Does anyone know what paint I should to repaint after I sandblast?


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## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

*Typo*

Mikey, you might get more of a response if you change the typo in the title of your post - from "reprinting" to "repainting" (I know, autocorrect can be a bugger).


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

jmo, but i would avoid any type of blasting on it, unless you are planning on a FULL disassembly of course. ( elbow grease does work well in most instances, its cheap, environmentally friendly, and healthy!!)


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## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

CO Snow said:


> Mikey, you might get more of a response if you change the typo in the title of your post - from "reprinting" to "repainting" (I know, autocorrect can be a bugger).


Oops lol I didn't even notice! How can I change it? I couldn't figure it out.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

This may be an option for blasting outdoors, this summer. Just make sure to keep your sand dry. 

Shop SIMPSON Wet Abrasive Sandblaster Kit for Gas Pressure Washers at Lowes.com


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I don't think the OP can change the title but I did. I finally woke up and realized what it was supposed to say. :wacko:


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

As for blasting there are a number of sources you can get different media from. I do think just hand sanding and maybe a drill with a wire brush might be enough.

https://www.google.com/#q=blasting+media

Black Diamond Medium Blasting Abrasives - Tractor Supply Co.


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## Spectrum (Jan 6, 2013)

For media you can also go to Tractor supply or any rental shop offering sand blasters. there are many materials available. I'm still burning through buy of black beauty.

I would not do this without tearing the machine down. If you blast it assembled grit WILL get in to bearings and bad things WILL happen. 

Personally... from what you show in the pictures I'd leave the machine alone. It will soon look no better for all of your efforts. Be sure to store any of these machine in a dry location ff of the ground.

If you feel you must do something to stabilize things wire wheel things in place and hit it with cold galvanize finish or POR15 or rust converting primer.

Pete


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## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

nwcove said:


> jmo, but i would avoid any type of blasting on it, unless you are planning on a FULL disassembly of course. ( elbow grease does work well in most instances, its cheap, environmentally friendly, and healthy!!)


Yea I was going to disassemble it first but maybe I'll try to do it by hand first.


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## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> I don't think the OP can change the title but I did. I finally woke up and realized what it was supposed to say.


Thanks I appreciate that!


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## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

Spectrum said:


> For media you can also go to Tractor supply or any rental shop offering sand blasters. there are many materials available. I'm still burning through buy of black beauty.
> 
> I would not do this without tearing the machine down. If you blast it assembled grit WILL get in to bearings and bad things WILL happen.
> 
> ...


Yea I was going to disassemble it first but like I said I'm my other post maybe I'll try a wire wheel first. It's not too bad but was just trying to stop the rust before it got any worse. I'm just using this for my house and my inlaws house so it will be lightly used but just want to take care of it so I will last me forever. Thanks for the helpful info!


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## Golfergordy (Oct 29, 2014)

Everyone commenting seems to be focusing on the blasting. I'm planning on repainting the auger on the Honda HS621, that I recently bought, and I'm thinking of removing the rust like Kiss suggests (by hand and power tool cleaning), but I'm wondering what kind of paint should be used. Does anyone have a good suggestion?


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

I'm a fan of POR 15. They make a two part epoxy paint called Hardnose. Nasty stuff, but it's the most durable paint I've ever used.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

I have been using Rust O Leam oil based paint from home depot (9 dollars a quart )on most of my projects and it works very well. Just thin with acetone and spray. I painted my snowblower back in 2011 and have used it every year since and the paint looks as good today as it did the day i painted it. I use mine on concrete and only do my own property so i don't have issues with stones and junk.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

POR 15 will really hold up well but it's expensive. It's more trouble to mix up and spray but if you're restoring or know you're keeping it likely the best DIY way to go.
Summit racing and Eastwood are two online sources.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/por-15

Rust-Oleum oil base: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...cQCFfRr7Aod6RYAaQ&gclsrc=aw.ds#specifications

Just a rattle can of engine enamel is how most go. Not as hard or durable but cheap (relatively) and easy. Also Cheap and easy to touch up as needed.
Chev Engine Orange for Ariens: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...248941/202628850?keyword=orange+engine+enamel


http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/por-15


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## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

With the POR 15 that would have to be sprayed on right? If I paint it by favs it would look like crap right? I don't have a spray gun so won't be able to spray it and buying one might be too much. I have a friend thats a painter and does some small stuff on the side for me. Once I get all the rust off it would it be possible to have him paint and clear it with car paint?


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## GustoGuy (Nov 19, 2012)

I would use a medium grit flap wheel sanding disk on a high speed angle grinder instead of a wire wheel. It will give much better results. Much smoother finish and will remove the rust better.


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## Dave C (Jan 26, 2015)

There is a POR-15 alternative called Zero-Rust that's more forgiving in application variables and actually does a better job at keeping rust from recurring.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I've abrasive blasted (notice I didn't say sandblast) a few machines and repainted them.
I use a unit from Eastwood and the abrasive is ground up cinder from Northern Tools. You can reuse it multiple times (till it quits cutting) if you strain it well before reuse. I have a large tarp I hang over the fence and then on the ground. I also made a plastic pipe frame about the size of a blasting cabinet and wrap it with another tarp and spring clamp it onto that frame. That helps confine the mess and makes cleanup easier.
For safety equipment I have a cartridge respirator, a full face shield and wear a heavy shirt along with wearing long welding gloves. This has worked out well for me.
I disassemble the machine and blast the pieces in the frame till they're clean. Cinder will take off all the old paint and 99% of the rust in the pitted areas of the metal.

Here's a before picture of an auger housing having tried a wire brush and sander

Here's after blasting and repainting

I usually use Evaporust post blasting to neutralize any remaining rust.
Eastwood also puts out a rust encapsulating primer (there are other brands too) then usually use Rustoleum paint to paint it it.

I've had pretty good luck with this combo so far, so unless I find something better I'll continue use this method.

Hope that helps.

Added - one thing to watch when blasting is insure that anything you don't want touched is removed or tape it off 'well'. Even a casual hit with cinder abrasive will strip off most tape in just a moment. Duct tape is better but even that can be removed if you're not careful.


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

Excellent work. Your blower looks new. I assume you sprayed.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

jermar said:


> Excellent work. Your blower looks new. I assume you sprayed.


That one was actually rattle can though I have sprayed a fair amount. In fact I used to spray finish for a furniture repair company in years past so I've put more out through a gun than I care to think of.


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## AL- (Oct 27, 2014)

HCBPH said:


> That one was actually rattle can though I have sprayed a fair amount. In fact I used to spray finish for a furniture repair company in years past so I've put more out through a gun than I care to think of.


I'm removing the rust from my bobcat with water and molasses however when I remove parts from the mix and wash them off they will flash rust very quickly even with hot water on a sunny day. So I thought of spaying the parts with evaporust using an ordinary squeeze type plastic squirt bottle and brush it on, letting them drain off and dry. I would collect any excess evaporust that drains off for reuse. I would not rinse off the evaporust with water, thinking then that a thin film of the evaprust would dry on the parts and give protection until I painted the parts over several days.

I've never used evaporust before but see in your previous post you said you use it to neutralize before painting?


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## jermar (Dec 10, 2014)

Now that I've done all the mechanical repairs, it's time to address the rust. I don't have access to a sand blaster, so I think I'll use the abrasive wheel in the photo. The blower is 21 years old. The welded seams are usually to be first to show rust. I'll hit the smaller rust spots with a Dremel tool. I plan to use POR15 followed by POR15 epoxy. Is this the best way to approach this?


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## MikeyDubs (Apr 6, 2015)

HCBPH said:


> I've abrasive blasted (notice I didn't say sandblast) a few machines and repainted them.
> I use a unit from Eastwood and the abrasive is ground up cinder from Northern Tools. You can reuse it multiple times (till it quits cutting) if you strain it well before reuse. I have a large tarp I hang over the fence and then on the ground. I also made a plastic pipe frame about the size of a blasting cabinet and wrap it with another tarp and spring clamp it onto that frame. That helps confine the mess and makes cleanup easier.
> For safety equipment I have a cartridge respirator, a full face shield and wear a heavy shirt along with wearing long welding gloves. This has worked out well for me.
> I disassemble the machine and blast the pieces in the frame till they're clean. Cinder will take off all the old paint and 99% of the rust in the pitted areas of the metal.
> ...



Thanks for the helpful post! That snow blower turned out great!! Any certain rustoleum paint you use? The engine enamel or just regular rustoleum? Also do you use a clear coat after?


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*CarlB*: For metal (I just repainted the fuel tank and skid plate on my Ford Bronco) I have been using oil base Rustoleum thinned with Penetrol. It is interesting to me that you use acetone as a thinning agent. I will try that. Have you thinned Rustoleum with Penetrol and if so how does it compare with acetone? 

Also I would like to buy a detail gun for spraying. (I only paint little things like a fuel tank or big things like a quarter panel a little at a time.) Do you guys have a recommendation for a gun?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

I have heard the Harbor Freight spray guns can be decent. I haven't used one myself.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

Hey here's a random thought re painting... I'm going through the same thing myself although I'm not very far along.

But I had a realization re the auger/impeller housing (and also the chute), and that's that the inside and outside can be treated differently.

The inside takes a lot of abuse, and IMHO its appearance is not super-important. So I'm going to first-coat the inside with a very durable rust-preventing primer, specifically this stuff: Mastercoat Rust Sealer. Since I don't have a spray gun, I'll apply it with a brush.

The *outside* on the other hand takes less abuse and I'd like it to look nicer. So I'm planning to do the outside with rustoleum rusty metal primer.

The topcoat in both cases will be Chevy engine orange as mentioned by another poster.


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

E350 said:


> *CarlB*: For metal (I just repainted the fuel tank and skid plate on my Ford Bronco) I have been using oil base Rustoleum thinned with Penetrol. It is interesting to me that you use acetone as a thinning agent. I will try that. Have you thinned Rustoleum with Penetrol and if so how does it compare with acetone?
> 
> Also I would like to buy a detail gun for spraying. (I only paint little things like a fuel tank or big things like a quarter panel a little at a time.) Do you guys have a recommendation for a gun?


I have never used Penetrol, but if you read the label on the paint they do recommend either mineral spirits or acetone on most of the oil based paints 

It does flash much faster with acetone then with mineral spirits. I mostly use acetone since I use it for other things as well, more so than mineral spirits.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*CarlB*: So acetone isn't just for polyester fiberglass anymore, eh? I had never understood the term "flash" before and found this:

_"Flash off" time refers to the amount of time between coats. _ 
_Too slow a thinner will mean longer flash off times (flash off also depends on shop temperture). _ 
_Too fast a thinner will mean the paint will start to dry before your finished spraying. _ 
_On an extremely hot day you should use slow thinner _ 
_On a cool day you should use fast thinner (consult U-POL guide). _

The entire article is quite informative:

SPRAY PAINTING TIPS

In my experience, Penetrol slows down the drying (flash) which when you brush paint permits the brush strokes to flow out a little. But if applied to thick will result in sags. I have a compressor and would like to spray and I can see where something like acetone would make sags less likely. Thanks for the explanation.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

MikeyDubs said:


> Thanks for the helpful post! That snow blower turned out great!! Any certain rustoleum paint you use? The engine enamel or just regular rustoleum? Also do you use a clear coat after?


I've used both, just depends if the color matches or not. Can't say I've seen alot of difference between them.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

E350 said:


> *CarlB*:
> Also I would like to buy a detail gun for spraying. (I only paint little things like a fuel tank or big things like a quarter panel a little at a time.) Do you guys have a recommendation for a gun?


More of the 'spraying' I have done lately has been things like car body parts. One of those 'diamonds in the rough' I picked up is a detail gun from Harbor Freight. It's the purple one and you need to add a line regulator to it but for the little I've used it's ok. I think it was less than $25 so couldn't beat the price. I thin by appearance and it's not easy to describe how it looks as it's running off the stiring stick. If I had to guess, I'd say start maybe in the 30-50% range with most thinners and see how it works.

If you use a gun with a separate canister (connects to the gun with hoses), turn off the air to the gun but pressurinze the can and if the stream pumps out about 4'-5' from the gun held at chest height to a coffee can (collector), you have your air about right. At least that's what I use.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*HCBPH*: $12.99 and you can use a 20% off coupon on a sale price 12.99*0.8 = *$10.39 *Now we're talking my kind of money...









4 out of 5 stars. 45 reviews:

Adjustable Detail Spray Gun

Any "line regulator" you recommend?

What size tip for Rustoleum thinned with Acetone?

Or are you shooting a two part paint with that gun?


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

I'm going to have to check that gun out because of the metal can on it vs the plastic one on the gun I bought, this is the one I have:
Gravity Feed Spray Gun - 20 Oz. HVLP

I haven't used it in a while but IIRC the cap is a 2.0, it's whatever was on it when I bought it. Most times you can thin the paint to work with the caps/tips on the gun. IIRC you can get other tips & caps for HF guns though so that's an option too,

On the pressure regulator and line pressure: I prefer to have first a regulator and water separator on the line from the compressor. My compressor is in the basement so when I'm spraying other than tiny stuff with a detail or touchup gun, I run a hose out the window. Because it's hard to regulate pressure there, I leave the regulator up so it has max pressure to the line. I then have a valve and pressure gauge mounted on the gun. I can dial up or down the pressure there. The type I like screw in-and-out rather than ball valve type units. I find it easier to dial in the exact pressure I need. If I'm having a lot of water issues due to humidity etc, I have another water separator with a male & female connectors on it. I use 2 hoses and put that in the middle and hang it from a chair back.

Painting a blower isn't like painting a car or spraying furniture, the finish is a lot more forgiving, though the same prep and methodology will result in a good finish. 

The first few times, practice-practice-practice and be ready to sand it down and do it again if you aren't happy with the finish. Don't discount rattle-cans either, you can get some good finishes if you start with a good brand of paint.


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