# Friction plate problem or normal?



## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

My Troy-Bilt 824 had a bad problem on the first snow of the season. While doing my neighbors drive, she lost power and started jerking around. When I got home and looked under the hood, the friction wheel was toast and there were numerous scratches on the friction plate where the metal of the wheel was apparently contacting it. I replaced the worn friction wheel and after setting the disklate gap per specs everything worked fine. But I recently got back under the hood to make some adjustments and noticed a good bit of coarse black dust on the lower pan and the differential. It looks like it came from the rubber off the new friction wheel. So I am wondering if this is normal, or if I need to remove and refinish the scarred friction disk. The attached pics show the plate and some of the black dust on the differential.
















Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

That drive plate should be smooth and free of any contamination.


----------



## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

That is an excessive amount of rubber.

What brand friction disk?


----------



## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

JLawrence08648 said:


> That is an excessive amount of rubber.
> 
> What brand friction disk?


A local shop had a matching friction wheel in stock. Packaging said MTD.

Anybody know a clever way to sand the drive plate flat without removing it (and without removing several fingers in the process)? Looks like a big job to remove the plate for refinishing.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## RickCoMatic (Dec 29, 2020)

You're not going to "Sand" those gouges out.
How long did you run it, ... metal on metal? (In several places!)


----------



## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

Jim_MI said:


> clever way to sand the drive plate


You might find something to get in there to scuff it a bit smoother, a mini grinder with a fine sanding wheel comes to mind, but it'll be tight quarters and you'd probably struggle with making it a level surface. Honestly, it really needs replacing.


Jim_MI said:


> Looks like a big job to remove the plate


I dont find them too bad, moreso time consuming IMO.


----------



## RickCoMatic (Dec 29, 2020)

With the Hex Shaft pulled and the Yoke off to one side I've done a few nasty Plate's with a Black & Decker Hand Sander.
280, 320, 400w, 600w
Elbow grease.
Bone Yard run?
It might have to be re-smelted to address the job done on that inside ring, though.


----------



## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Jim_MI said:


> My Troy-Bilt 824 had a bad problem on the first snow of the season. While doing my neighbors drive, she lost power and started jerking around. When I got home and looked under the hood, the friction wheel was toast and there were numerous scratches on the friction plate where the metal of the wheel was apparently contacting it. I replaced the worn friction wheel and after setting the disklate gap per specs everything worked fine. But I recently got back under the hood to make some adjustments and noticed a good bit of coarse black dust on the lower pan and the differential. It looks like it came from the rubber off the new friction wheel. So I am wondering if this is normal, or if I need to remove and refinish the scarred friction disk. The attached pics show the plate and some of the black dust on the differential.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The plate is toast and should be replaced.
It is eating up your new wheel, when the wheel wears out to the point of getting down to metal you should have heard it?
Now, how bad did you mess up the new friction wheel? 
It does not take long with a plate like that to ruin the wheel again.


----------



## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

Really did not hear anything grinding, but I wear noise canceling ear protectors. What I noticed was bucking & rough ride. I ran it back home & into the garage, (apparently using all gears along the 100 yard walk home from the look of the plate). The old friction wheel showed torn rubber and one area where the metal rim was also torn. 

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

I've seen platter scratched up on purpose by old timer to give disc more bite !  At expense of its life no doubt.


----------



## tadawson (Jan 3, 2018)

At the risk of being redundant (and I have not seen anyone ask yet), are you changing speed with the drive engaged? That can tear up a disk pretty quickly, and in extreme cases, roll the rubber "tire" right off the disc.


----------



## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

I was hoping that some clever member had figured out a way to remove the rubber friction wheel, attach a flat grinding stone to the hex axel & then let the engine do the work of turning the drive plate against the stone for refinishing. 

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

tadawson said:


> At the risk of being redundant (and I have not seen anyone ask yet), are you changing speed with the drive engaged? That can tear up a disk pretty quickly, and in extreme cases, roll the rubber "tire" right off the disc.


No, never did that. I always disengage the drive before shifting gears.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

Jim_MI said:


> attach a flat grinding stone to the hex axel & then let the engine do the work of turning the drive plate against the stone for refinishing.


just make a sanding block out of wood that will fit the shaft. just make sure it is as tall big enough to come in contact with the friction plate. i was considering recommending doing something like that but don't really know any way to recommend doing it safely. if you have a truck or lifting work bench could take the hex shaft out and put a sanding block on a stick and manually controlling the sanding block while the engine is running the drive plate.


----------



## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

Jim_MI said:


> let the engine do the work of turning the drive plate against the stone for refinishing.


_chuckling here_ you could simply glue a strip of sand paper to the rubber of the friction wheel...


----------



## Darby (Dec 18, 2020)

Since we're having fun with this I say to replace drive disc with a 6 inch grinding stone !
Seriously, id block sand it as best i could and just run it, move on. If op is not shifting on the fly it should be ok. You'll know in short order.


----------



## crazzywolfie (Jun 2, 2014)

block sanding it would likely take a long time with how deep some of those gouges are and you really need to try sanding the whole disk unless it is spinning at which point you only need to go from about the center out. ideally having it spin while removing material would be the best way to keep a consistent surface that is flat but you could try hitting it with an orbital sander to bring down some of the high spots first. just make sure to keep moving to try keeping the from making big low spots.


----------



## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

Well, I spent several hours this afternoon sanding the friction plate in-situ. I used a Ryobi detail sander, keeping it as flat to the plate as possible, and working my up from #80 grit to #100, #150, #220, #400, #600 and then #0000 steel wool. As expected, still some grooves but MUCH smoother. Hopefully this will improve my friction wheel wear. Actually, it is so smooth now that I hope the wheel doesn't slip on the disk! Snow coming this weekend, so we'll see...
















Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## EntropyKnower (Aug 27, 2021)

Nice work rehabbing that platter.

Sometimes I've wondered whether there is a way to use a brake-disc lathe or similar to resurface a drive platter


----------



## sledman8002002 (Jan 20, 2021)

Jim_MI said:


> I spent several hours this afternoon sanding the friction plate in-situ


Exemplary work Jim, 3 fold better than it was. It's good to see that you were able to 'bring it back' to usable condition without having to remove.


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

Fine job on cleaning up the drive disc ... now I would change that friction disc, as you can see the bevel in the rubber which may certainly give you issues.


----------



## RickCoMatic (Dec 29, 2020)

UPDATE:

Replacement Friction Disc's

The anonymous Spare Disc has a couple hours in it.
Fwd /Rev/Speeds: PASS
Disc came with no manufacturing marks, stamps, logos or P/N on it anywhere.

-- Rick


----------



## Jim_MI (Jan 7, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> Fine job on cleaning up the drive disc ... now I would change that friction disc, as you can see the bevel in the rubber which may certainly give you issues.


I wasn't sure if that is a normal wear pattern or not. Seems like since the outer aspect of the drive plate is always moving at a faster "linear" velocity than the inner aspect, one edge of the disc would wear more than the other. (I suppose I could even out the bevel by running her in reverse for a few miles, lol.) If it needs replacement, what brand would you recommend for best longevity (Troy-Bilt machine)?

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

LOL, .... I usually go for the best price in its replacement number ... usually Stens, and usually through Amazon.

Sidenote ..... Make sure all your shaft/ rod bushings/bearings for the friction disc and the drive plate are in good condition, including at all end frame points where any shaft/rod attaches. Might also check while you're at it all your axle bushings/bearings where your axle connects to the frame, as well as your auger shaft bushings/bearings. These are all wear points and worn-out items will affect your machine operations.


----------



## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Jim_MI said:


> Well, I spent several hours this afternoon sanding the friction plate in-situ. I used a Ryobi detail sander, keeping it as flat to the plate as possible, and working my up from #80 grit to #100, #150, #220, #400, #600 and then #0000 steel wool. As expected, still some grooves but MUCH smoother. Hopefully this will improve my friction wheel wear. Actually, it is so smooth now that I hope the wheel doesn't slip on the disk! Snow coming this weekend, so we'll see...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


nice job


----------

