# Changing the Friction Wheel on a 2890 storm tracker



## mammothdude

Plowing through the 5 feet of snow we get last weekend (Sierra Nevada) I started hearing a squealing sound. When I went to inspect, the rubber on the friction wheel was super low. I have a replacement, but before I disassemble any more than I already have, how do I get the friction wheel off to replace it. My machine has treads and a planetary gear assembly on either side of the rod. There is a bearing and a thick washer on either end that slip off, but I don't see how to remove the gears so I can slide off the friction wheel.

Anyone with experience? It's supposed to snow another 2 feet this weekend.:smile2:


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## JLawrence08648

I have experience with friction disks but zero with treads. The gears I've removed have a roll pin going through that would need to be punched out, or a bolt. Maybe the same with yours? Turn the gears and look. I know with wheeled machines the wheels need to be removed and the axle or hex shaft needs to be slid out.


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## mammothdude

The friction wheel slides back and forth on this thing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fS6FVR7CtGmERISJqyQTkmCVrT2nUyHn/view?usp=sharing

I can't see how to take the ends off to get the friction wheel off for replacement. It is also looking like I'll need to disengage or remove the tread assembly to make it happen. Unless there is some easy way I'm missing, this is a pretty huge hassle for something I will need to do every other year.


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## tabora

mammothdude said:


> I can't see how to take the ends off to get the friction wheel off for replacement. It is also looking like I'll need to disengage or remove the tread assembly to make it happen. Unless there is some easy way I'm missing, this is a pretty huge hassle for something I will need to do every other year.


 OK, so is your 2890 one that has the triangular shaped tracks with 3 axles? I'll see if I can find a procedure for that one... Do you have the exact model number? 

The friction wheel in my old HS80 lasted almost 33 years. I wouldn't think you'd have to service it very often?


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## mammothdude

It does have the triangular tread design (I'll check the model # when I get home), but it looks like there is only one axle that connects to a big gear on the track assembly. There are 2 other rods that give the tracks stability and connect to the body of the machine. If I can easily remove the track assemblies, it will be way easier to get at the friction wheel, but I'm still not sure how to take off the gears on the ends of the friction wheel rod (I don't see any screws or pins).


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## tabora

I checked, and apparently MTD implies that special tools are required for removing the planetary units. The suggestion is made that an authorized service center may be the only recourse?
_*NOTE: Special tools are required and several*_
_* components must be removed in order to*_
_* replace the unit’s friction wheel rubber. See*_
_* your authorized service dealer to have friction*_
_* wheel rubber replaced or contact Customer*_
_* Support.*_​ I would have thought that they were just held on by a circlip or something?


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## mammothdude

This machine is only 3-4 years old but has seen a lot of action over that time. I never thought that the rubber would wear down that quickly, but TroyBilt says to check or replace every 25 hours of use. 25 hours of use for me is about every 2-3 years. 

We'll see how much time and money this takes up. It might mean switching to a different machine.


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## mammothdude

tabora said:


> I checked, and apparently MTD implies that special tools are required for removing the planetary units. The suggestion is made that an authorized service center may be the only recourse?


This is my biggest fear (and the reason there is no info anywhere I've looked). I'll put a call in to our local shop (They have a good reputation) and report back on the time and cost for future reference.

Thanks for the help.


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## Town

Have you measured the thickness of the rubber on the friction disc? My Ariens has only a 1/4" when new so when it is half worn at 1/8" it looks worn out until you measure.


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## JayzAuto1

Have you tried the MTD Website?? They have many of the service manuals available for D/L. I have one titled " Medium Frame Snowblowers Document Number 769-09302" that details all the service procedures. You did not specify a model number, so I'm not positive it covers your unit. But MTD has many of the Service Manuals available for free and immediate D/L. It's worth a look.
Or if you can provide your model and serial number, I can check the manuals I have to see if it's covered. 

GLuck, Jay


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## mammothdude

Town said:


> Have you measured the thickness of the rubber on the friction disc? My Ariens has only a 1/4" when new so when it is half worn at 1/8" it looks worn out until you measure.


I think mine is probably the same, but the metal of the wheel is now contacting the friction wheel and is making a mess of both.


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## mammothdude

JayzAuto1 said:


> Have you tried the MTD Website?? They have many of the service manuals available for D/L.


The model number is 31AH7FP4766, but I went and handed it over to my local shop so I don't have the serial # handy. I'll definitely check it out for next time. 

(if there is a next time. I might just swap it out for something more reliable/easier to maintain)


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## tabora

Here's the link to your manuals: https://www.mtdparts.com/equipment/mtdparts/DisplayOwnersManualList?storeId=10101&catalogId=19502&langId=-1&logoCode=02&modelNumber=31AH7FP4766&serialNumber=ENTER+SERIAL+%23+%28optional%29

No friction disc removal info though... Why they list it as a spare/repair part, but don't want you to replace it yourself, is a mystery.


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## mammothdude

Ok, I replaced the rubber on the friction wheel in the most desperate way possible.

I opened up the bottom cover. Removed the four screws holding the rubber in place. Cut through and removed the worn out rubber piece. Then cut the new rubber piece, slipped it into place. screwed everything nice and tight and I was off and running. 10 minutes.

The piece I installed was a little too small in diameter so I have a 1 inch gap in the rubber that makes a banging noise when I run it. I've ordered another rubber ring and when it arrives I'll cut it, clip off a one inch piece, and put it into the gap to stop the ends from wearing down too quickly.
Here's the ring I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CQT26JK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, I know this is the dumbest way to fix this, but I've already ground metal to metal on both wheels (metal shavings everywhere when I first looked) and it's snowing now. I gave it a quick test and it seems to be holding together fine. My thinking was I already need to replace the contact plate at some point and now (if it can hold together) I have rubber contacting metal.

Am I a genius or an idiot? (be honest, this is the internet and I live far away)


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## skutflut

I have a feeling that your new, soon to be two piece rubber ring is not going to last very long.


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## tabora

mammothdude said:


> I've ordered another rubber ring and when it arrives I'll cut it, clip off a one inch piece, and put it into the gap to stop the ends from wearing down too quickly.


Instead of this, maybe cut them both about half so they fit tightly when clamped in the metal, and coat the ends where they touch in J.B. Weld Ultimate Black Silicone. Let it set and then clamp it up tight and hopefully it will last a while.


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## mammothdude

tabora said:


> Instead of this, maybe cut them both about half so they fit tightly when clamped in the metal, and coat the ends where they touch in J.B. Weld Ultimate Black Silicone. Let it set and then clamp it up tight and hopefully it will last a while.


Great idea, I only need it to last until spring. (It's snowing like crazy outside)


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