# Wheels are not engaging



## JeKC (Feb 15, 2014)

Currently the wheels on my snowblower are not engaging, I have a 8HP Snowking Tecumseh.

This is how it went down, I was using the snowblower when the left wheel fell off. In order to finish what I was doing I placed a cut up coat hanger to secure the wheel. The next day when I got a new quick pin to put in the wheel I had a problem pulling off the wheel as it was stuck. I had to do a lot of banging and with the use of a crow bar I managed to pry it off, the coat hanger had broke off that had prevented the wheel to come off.

Now, because of my brute force method of getting the wheel off I have done other damage that prevents the wheels from turning when I engage the lever.

With the engine off I can engage the lever and I have no problem pushing the snowblower.

When the lever is not engaged I can manually move the tooth gear with my finger.

When the lever is engaged I can not manually move the tooth gear with my finger.

Attached is a picture.

Any thoughts on what I can check?

Thanks


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

There are two holes in the axle for the quick pin. If you put the pin in the outer most hole in the axle without going to the wheel as well it won't lock the wheel to the axle. Pin has to be through the axle and the wheel.

Since you can spin the gear without the lever and the large gear stops when you engage the lever it leads me to think there is a problem at the wheel. 

Can you take a pic of each wheel centre?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Was it the left wheel that gave you issues? If your banging and prying damaged the axle bushing behind the wheel it is possible that the 2 gears are pushing apart when you try using it now.


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## Geno (Nov 29, 2011)

don't know about the wheel.. but unless that is graphite on there that octagon shaft wheel slides on sure could use some lube- looks too dry in my opinion. That could cause shifting issues.


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## JeKC (Feb 15, 2014)

Attached are the pictures of the wheels.


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## JeKC (Feb 15, 2014)

Shryp said:


> Was it the left wheel that gave you issues? If your banging and prying damaged the axle bushing behind the wheel it is possible that the 2 gears are pushing apart when you try using it now.


Yes, it was the left wheel that I had to bang and pry on to get the wheel off.

Are you saying there might be some issue with the gear shaft and tooth gear?


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## td5771 (Feb 21, 2011)

since you cant spin the big gear with the drive lever engaged, you can spin it with the drive lever not engaged, and the wheels are linked to the axle correctly,

That just leaves the connection between the axle and the large gear.

Strap the drive lever down in the engaged position, tilt the blower up on its front with the pan off. 

spin the tire and wheel and watch the axle spin, if the axle spins inside the large gear and the gear does not spin you broke that connection. most likely a keyway between the gear and the axle.

if you cant spin the wheel then you may have to look at what shryp said, everything may be connected but when it gets power from the other direction a bad bushing is letting the gears push apart.

spin the axle with the drive engaged, if the axle spins inside the large gear thats the problems.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

JeKC said:


> Yes, it was the left wheel that I had to bang and pry on to get the wheel off.
> 
> Are you saying there might be some issue with the gear shaft and tooth gear?


See the first picture you posted?
See where there is a big gear on the wheel axle and a small gear on the end of the hex shaft where the rubber friction wheel slides back and forth?

If the axle bushing in the frame there is worn out or damaged those 2 gears can separate. With the machine up in the air and the bottom cover off turn the wheels and see if all the internal parts spin or not. If the axle is spinning inside of the large gear the key connecting the 2 is broken. If the large gear is not spinning the hex shaft the 2 gears are not meshing right for some reason. If the hex shaft is spinning you have a friction disc adjustment problem.


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## JeKC (Feb 15, 2014)

Shryp said:


> See the first picture you posted?
> See where there is a big gear on the wheel axle and a small gear on the end of the hex shaft where the rubber friction wheel slides back and forth?
> 
> If the axle bushing in the frame there is worn out or damaged those 2 gears can separate. With the machine up in the air and the bottom cover off turn the wheels and see if all the internal parts spin or not. If the axle is spinning inside of the large gear the key connecting the 2 is broken. If the large gear is not spinning the hex shaft the 2 gears are not meshing right for some reason. If the hex shaft is spinning you have a friction disc adjustment problem.


Since I can spin the wheels without the large gear moving, that appears then to be a key that is broken. Any idea of what this key would look and where it would go?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

JeKC said:


> Since I can spin the wheels without the large gear moving, that appears then to be a key that is broken. Any idea of what this key would look and where it would go?


Just to clarify, when you spin the wheels the axle is spinning inside of that gear correct?

It is probably a woodruff key available at any hardware store. You are going to have to pull the axe to get to it. It looks like all that holds your axle there is the wheels and a cotter pin inside the gear. Pull off both wheels and the cotter pin and the axle should slide out either side. The gear will fall so be sure to catch it. With it out you should see a slot in the gear and in the axle. My guess is a flat slot in the gear and a half round slot in the axle. If this is the case just take your gear and axle to a hardware store and pick up a new woodruff key of the correct size to fit your hole and probably grab another cotter pin as well. I would think you originally had a roll pin there, but does look like you have a cotter pin now.

If you give use the model number we could look up a parts list for your blower and be more specific. Someone else had the same issue recently and I will look and see if I can find his post.


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## gusgt18 (Jan 18, 2014)

typically a half moon /half circle key between the shaft and the gear. Can you move the gear side to side on the shaft? 

I would also move the wheels in to the inner holes on the axle shaft.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Shryp said:


> If you give use the model number we could look up a parts list for your blower and be more specific. Someone else had the same issue recently and I will look and see if I can find his post.


Here you go, see this thread. I posted a diagram of the key in question.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...intenance-forum/15081-mtd-will-not-drive.html

Also, the parts list does indeed show a roll pin instead of a cotter pin.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Looks like a #9 Woodruff key 3/16" x 3/4"

MTD part # 914-0126

Looks like the special $3 MTD key looks slightly different



















Vs the standard 40 cent generic hardware one.



















I doubt the 2 little wings are very important so I will let you choose whether to get the $3.00 key or the $0.40 key.


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## JeKC (Feb 15, 2014)

Guys, first off I would like to thank everyone for the awesome help you have given someone who doesn't know the first thing about this.

From the images and information you posted that little woodruff key looked familiar. When I pulled the bottom side of the snowblower that piece was sitting in there - which I forgot about and probably should of mentioned right from the start.

I put that piece in and the wheels are now turning again.

I need to do some other work on the snowblower but it can wait until summer - this will be where I will come if I have any questions.

Thanks again!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Even better. I bet the cotter pin vs roll pin gave that gear enough space to pop out enough for the key to fall. Either, that or all your prying and banging slid the gear far enough the other way to pop it out. Either way, glad it was fixed and didn't cost anything on top of time.


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