# HS724 spark plug cross threaded?



## KingTito (Jan 24, 2018)

My odessey with my new to me HS724 continues. After reassembling redone auger housing decided to do some PM. 

Replace spark plug etc. I knew it was going to be a mess when removing the old one. It was tight. 

So with the new one I put a light coat of oil on the threads. Hard to get started. Finally got it started. Super tight after 2 turns or so just using my hands. 

Stopped. Didn’t continue. Didn’t try with the wrench. 

Now looking for advice. Maybe chase the thread? Never done that so advice is appreciated. Best tools etc.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Use a back tap to clean up the threads from the inside out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014FGVVW/


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I always put Never-Seize on spark plug threads to prevent seizing.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> Use a back tap to clean up the threads from the inside out.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014FGVVW/


is 14mm the right size for Honda? that's a good tool to have.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I've never heard of a back tap so I got an education on YouTube. Thanks. I need to own one. Small enough to keep another tool hidden from the wife.



Yanmar Ronin said:


> Use a back tap to clean up the threads from the inside out.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014FGVVW/


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Best way to start a spark plug is with your fingers or with a short piece of rubber vacuum or heater tubing over the end. Keeps you form being able to damage the threads. That's for the future.

It's best NOT to use anti-seize. Take a breath, I know I was a firm believer in it up until this fall and after seeing articles and actually reading it on manufacturers web sites they are now recommending against adding anti-seize.

Now for your problem. That back tap is a great idea. If you get it I would coat it with a little grease when you put it in so it catches any little parts of the threads when it comes through. That tool is cool.
I have a chaser in my tool box and if you think you can get it started straight it could also fix the problem. It's also nice to use each time you change a plug to clean out the threads vefore putting the new plug in. Any auto parts store, maybe big box stores, walmart, ...

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...JMjvXjZsl2mJbffClUQaAioYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

I delt with something similar on an older GX240 a few months ago with cross threaded spark plug. 

The head comes off easy, I just removed the head, chased out the threads from the inside, removed all the carbon from the inside of the head while I was at it, installed the head back using a new head gasket. 

My 2 cents would be to remove the head and do the work.


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## nwcove (Mar 2, 2015)

JnC said:


> I delt with something similar on an older GX240 a few months ago with cross threaded spark plug.
> 
> The head comes off easy, I just removed the head, chased out the threads from the inside, removed all the carbon from the inside of the head while I was at it, installed the head back using a new head gasket.
> 
> My 2 cents would be to remove the head and do the work.


+1 ,....... or a new head and gasket costs about the same as a tool that the average guy may only use once ........ although dealing with the valve springs and lapping the valves to a new head may be more than the average guy wants to take on also.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I've seen numerous anti-seize products and have four different ones, maybe five. The only one I use for mowers and blowers and automobiles, never trains and planes, is a graphite paste called Never-Seize. I've been using it for 50 years. I get it at the plumbing supply store. I also use it on lug nuts. It withstands high heat, it's not slippery so the bolt won't back out, won't lose torque, won't attract dirt like grease. The other ones I have I use for other applications such as bicycles.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I agree with using the back tap if you don't want to take it apart but pulling the head isn't that hard and that would be the safer way to run a standard tap or chaser through.


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## KingTito (Jan 24, 2018)

I ordered the back tap from amazon but I may pull the head and use that tool. If it’s easy. Anyone want to give me the cliff notes version? One of you guys maybe JnC gave me the run down to pull the auger housing and it was helpful.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Use a lot of grease, collapse the tool threads, put it in, uncollapse them just a little, pull it out to catch the threads, then uncollapse a little more as you turn it outwards. Repeat if necessary.


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## JnC (Feb 21, 2014)

- Remove the air filter/air guide cover. 
- Remove the air shroud. 
- Remove the carb linkage. 
- Remove and plug the fuel line. 
- Remove the governor to carb linkage. 
- Remove the carb and the carb spacer, if the gaskets are in good condition then you can reuse them, otherwise get a couple spare.
- Remove the ignition/plug wire. 
- Remove the Valve cover, it comes off by removing the 6mm head bolt. 
- Remove the valve adjustment nuts. 
- Remove the Valve retainer nuts.
- Remove the two bolts that hold the valve retainer bolts in place along with the plate that holds the push rods in place. 
- Remove the push rods. 
- Remove the two bolts that hold the exhaust in place, the gasket for exhaust can be reused if its in good condition.
- Remove the four bolts holding the head in place. 
- Remove the head. 
- Discard the old head gasket. 
- Chase out the plug hole using a thread chaser or tap. 
- Use a lot of lubricant and start the tap slowly, with hand. 
- To see if you have a good starting point, it helps to use an old spark plug with visibly good threads, try to install the plug from the inside of the head and see if it screws in till it gets to the cross threaded area of the threads. 
- If the above checks out then start using the tap to clean the threads from the inside outwards. 
- Once done, try out an old plug with good threads from the outside and see if you can thread it all the way i.e till the plug sits flush with the head surface, if it does then you are good to go. 

- Clean the head, clean the head gasket contact area before reinstalling the head, make sure to use a new gasket. 
- There are two head retainers that go in the bolt holes, when you take the head off you'll see them stuck to either the block or the head, make sure not to loose them. 

If you do decide to go this route then let us know, I'll post proper torque figures for the pertinent bolts. If you have all the parts ready then it shouldnt take you more than an hour or so to do all the work.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

An ancient trick for back tapping a plug 'ole: Before you tap turn the engine over until the exhaust valve is open, then connect via whatever hose/adapter cobble necessary the intake of your shop vac to the exhaust. Zoom zoom.

Really no need to pull the head, that's the whole idea behind, you know... back-tapping.

ccasion14:


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Yanmar Ronin said:


> An ancient trick for back tapping a plug 'ole: Before you tap turn the engine over until the exhaust valve is open, then connect via whatever hose/adapter cobble necessary the intake of your shop vac to the exhaust. Zoom zoom.
> 
> Really no need to pull the head, that's the whole idea behind, you know... back-tapping.
> 
> ccasion14:


was thinking the same thing. i have a back tapping tool after watching a couple videos on you-tube. put grease on it like suggested and then back tapped my spark plug hole which was cross-threaded from previous owner.

really took my time as it was my first time and it took about 10 minutes. 

worked perfectly.


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## KingTito (Jan 24, 2018)

Thanks everyone. This one scares me a bit more than the housing project. Will let everyone know which way I’m going and the outcome. Thanks!


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

It may be a good idea besides greasing the Back Tap, as Yanmar Robin suggested, remove the valve cover and then the engine closing the intake valve, open the exhaust valve, then after you are done, using a vacuum, suck out any metal filings, then blow out with an air compressor through the spark plug hole then out through the exhaust into the muffler, it will get blown out when starting.


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## KingTito (Jan 24, 2018)

Success. I did the vacuum trick as described and it was great having the muffler off to give me more room to actuate the back tap and familiarized myself with it for a bit. 

Put some grease on the back tap. 

Gently got it in place and partially deployed the back tap (partially expanded the diameter). Caught a thread. Brought it back up slowly just with hand torque. Finally felt some resistance. Collapsed it a bit and worked through it. Never used a wrench. Just hand torque. 

I did this process 5 times always cleaning and using fresh grease. Adjusting the diameter and gently working through is key. 

Final time fully deployed it and it came through with gentle hand torque. 

Got a new spark plug. Went in smoothly. 

Vacuumed. Put it back together. 

Fired it up. 

Changed oil. 

Done with that episode!

Thanks for the help and support!


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## KingTito (Jan 24, 2018)

I should also say that the back tap is an amazing tool. Especially for the money. <$30 from amazon!

What a great recommendation.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

KingTito said:


> Success. I did the vacuum trick as described and it was great having the muffler off to give me more room to actuate the back tap and familiarized myself with it for a bit.
> 
> Put some grease on the back tap.
> 
> ...



the dealer would have charged you $1763.78...... this site pays for itself. ( free even )

good job.


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

Good deal. ccasion14:


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## KingTito (Jan 24, 2018)

Owe you many beers for the back tap suggestion. Many beers for the vacuum suggestions. JnC many beers for all of the guidance!!


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## Yanmar Ronin (Jan 31, 2015)

KingTito said:


> Owe you many beers for the back tap suggestion. Many beers for the vacuum suggestions. JnC many beers for all of the guidance!!


No problem... catch you the next time I'm on that side. k:


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

orangputeh said:


> the dealer would have charged you $1763.78...... this site pays for itself. ( free even )


But we do appreciate it if you join. Helps keep the lights on. http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/payments.php $15 yr. $40 lifetime


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> But we do appreciate it if you join. Helps keep the lights on. http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/payments.php $15 yr. $40 lifetime


that is exactly why i became a lifetime member. probably saved hundreds if not over a thousand or more in repairs from SBF.


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## KingTito (Jan 24, 2018)

orangputeh said:


> that is exactly why i became a lifetime member. probably saved hundreds if not over a thousand or more in repairs from SBF.



Great idea. Glad you mentioned it. Amazing the help I received so I am now a lifetime member. Thanks!


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Me too. I came here looking for help originally. This forum is a gold mine of info not only on snow blowers but small engines powering anything.

I've been forgetting to promote membership, my bad :icon-embarrassed:


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