# Gas leaking new Ariens with 414ax



## Bob z (Apr 5, 2015)

Gas is dripping down on left tire from carburetor area, any hints. Shut off valve, stopped now. Any ideas before I take apart. I am 75 miles from dealer so will check myself first.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Sticking needle valve, and /or float in carb bowl sticking or out of adjustment. Check your oil to make sure none of the gas has made it thru the carb and into the crankcase.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You didn't happen to just prime it did you? If you prime it a lot it can cause gas to leak.


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

If the float isn't closing the needle valve in the carb properly, that could cause dripping. That could be from a problem with the needle, the seat, or perhaps the float. If the float is metal, sometimes they can develop a hole. That lets gas into the hollow flow, so the float drops too low, allowing gas to overflow. 

I'd check the oil before running the engine again. If the carb is overflowing, it's possible for the gas to run into the engine's intake. The gas can make its way into the crankcase, diluting the oil. This can cause engine damage. 

I'd see if the oil/dipstick smell like gas. If it does, I'd change the oil, while also trying to resolve the drip. 

If you need a short-term fix, close the fuel shutoff, then run the engine until it dies, to empty the carb bowl.


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## BTodd (Feb 9, 2016)

Besides over-priming, I have also seen carbs leak just because the machine was tipped back on the handlebars, then put upright again.


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## Bob z (Apr 5, 2015)

It's hydro locking. Cylinder was full of fuel, would not crank. Removed plug, cleared fuel and started, ran perfectly. No fuel in oil, level was correct, same as when I changed it. I shut gas off and ran until carb emptied. It is under warranty but dealer is 75 miles away, they think I need a new carb. Thinks maybe float is bad.


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## SnoThro (Feb 20, 2016)

They do make rebuild kits for those carbs that has all new gaskets, a new bowl, needle, and float. If you have a Tecumseh dealer significantly closer they can get you one, should be less than $20 I think. Engine is LCT which absorbed some of the Tecumseh brand hence the link between the two. On the right side of the block you'll see a huge string of numbers, that's your model, and a smaller string of numbers below it which is your serial, you can look up parts here under either Ariens or CPC (Tecumseh) brands.

LCT Service Parts Catalog

Removal isn't too bad, mostly a bunch of 10mm bolts although a couple styles do require removal of the muffler to take the heater box shroud off. Only hard part is taking off the kill switch terminals, need to pull back the terminal covers and use a pick to release the little locking tabs. If you just try to yank them off there is a good chance you'll break them.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

If it was hydro locked by fuel in the cylinder, then you will have fuel in the oil. The piston rings don't seal well enough with the engine stopped to keep gas from leaking past, and the only place it has to go is down into the crankcase.


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## wdb (Dec 15, 2013)

skutflut said:


> If it was hydro locked by fuel in the cylinder, then you will have fuel in the oil. The piston rings don't seal well enough with the engine stopped to keep gas from leaking past, and the only place it has to go is down into the crankcase.


I tend to agree. Sniff the oil, if you smell gas change it. Or just change it for your own peace of mind.

Before changing it you might want to try letting fuel in again. It's possible that something got knocked out of whack in transport; the float *could* un-stick itself.


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

+1 not a good scenario. bad float or needle seat has to be the culprit. Shutting off the fuel is a good habit always though.....


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## Bob z (Apr 5, 2015)

Problem solved, removed bowl, float and needle valve, flushed fuel through carb and reassembled. No issues now, must have been a bit od dirt keeping needle valve open. Thanks to everyone for your help.


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