# Impeller shear bolt #5



## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

I have a broken bolt in the shaft and there is a piece still in which causes the impeller to turn when I turn the augers. The bolt head and the nut are gone.
Is there any way to get the broken piece out of the shaft without having to remove the auger assembly?

Thanks 

Honda HS928


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## AverageJoe (Feb 19, 2014)

You might be able to use a tap and gently tap it out with a hammer......just make sure you locate the actual area...the shear pin, before trying.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

honda928 said:


> I have a broken bolt in the shaft and there is a piece still in which causes the impeller to turn when I turn the augers. The bolt head and the nut are gone.
> Is there any way to get the broken piece out of the shaft without having to remove the auger assembly?


 
It would be the other way around when you say "when I turn the augers".
Normally the auger turns when you turn the impeller so the question would be is where the broken bolt is located on which shaft?


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## brickcity (Jan 23, 2014)

AverageJoe said:


> You might be able to use a tap and gently tap it out with a hammer......just make sure you locate the actual area...the shear pin, before trying.


great point. the first shear pin i broke i used a punch,all, to tap it out but i didn't have it in the 'actual area'. did a little damage trying to tap it out.
if you line it up properly it should come out easiy


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## FLSTN (Sep 19, 2014)

*Hs928 broken shear bolt*

Had the same problem on an hs928.

Not enough room for a tap. We used a 1'' long screw slightly smaller diameter(than shear pin) and a small hammer(sideways) to drive out broken piece of shear pin. Had to try one side first. Then it came out from the other side.


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

Normex said:


> It would be the other way around when you say "when I turn the augers".
> Normally the auger turns when you turn the impeller so the question would be is where the broken bolt is located on which shaft?


 As indicated in the OP the bolt is the #5 bolt which is located on the impeller shaft closest to the impeller.


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

FLSTN said:


> Had the same problem on an hs928.
> 
> Not enough room for a tap. We used a 1'' long screw slightly smaller diameter(than shear pin) and a small hammer(sideways) to drive out broken piece of shear pin. Had to try one side first. Then it came out from the other side.


 Thanks ...you are right! Due to the small space in the impeller housing there is not a lot of room to use a hammer. I have a small ball peen & I will try tomorrow to turn it and see if I can tap it out. Even if I have to remove the auger assembly there is still not a lot of room there however t would open the front up some. Hopefully the remaining piece will let go.

Thanks for the come back guys!!


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

Well I soaked the hole with WD and left overnight. Went out today and regardless of what I did the broken piece would not come out of the hole! Called the dealer to pick up and repair.


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## Freezn (Mar 1, 2014)

Been through this scenario with a broken water pump bolt on my Mustang. Get yourself a 1/8" reverse rotating hardened drill bit. Heat the broken bolt for 5-10 mins with MAP gas. Then using a nail punch, hit the center of the bolt 4-5 times. Reheat another 2-3 mins and repeat the process with the center punch and hammer. Then take your reverse drill bit, SET YOUR DRILL FOR COUTNER CLOCKWISE ROTATION and drill out the center of the broken bolt. As you start to drill into the broken bolt, chances are pretty good the bolt will break free since you are drilling counter clockwise which is in essence backing the bolt out. I like to drill about 1/3 of the way into bolt, heat it again, Center punch it again, then drill some more. Shear bolts are very soft, so the bolt will either back out enough where you can grab it with Vice-Grips or you can keep drilling with progressively larger bits and drill out the broken bolt. Sometimes the bolt backs right out of the treads on the drill bit, other times I have to keep drilling until the bolt basically disintegrates and chase the thread with a tap. Either way, it's really not as scary as it sounds. Give it a shot. Nothing to loose. Then call the dealer if you still can't get it out.


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

Freezn said:


> Been through this scenario with a broken water pump bolt on my Mustang. Get yourself a 1/8" reverse rotating hardened drill bit. Heat the broken bolt for 5-10 mins with MAP gas. Then using a nail punch, hit the center of the bolt 4-5 times. Reheat another 2-3 mins and repeat the process with the center punch and hammer. Then take your reverse drill bit, SET YOUR DRILL FOR COUTNER CLOCKWISE ROTATION and drill out the center of the broken bolt. As you start to drill into the broken bolt, chances are pretty good the bolt will break free since you are drilling counter clockwise which is in essence backing the bolt out. I like to drill about 1/3 of the way into bolt, heat it again, Center punch it again, then drill some more. Shear bolts are very soft, so the bolt will either back out enough where you can grab it with Vice-Grips or you can keep drilling with progressively larger bits and drill out the broken bolt. Sometimes the bolt backs right out of the treads on the drill bit, other times I have to keep drilling until the bolt basically disintegrates and chase the thread with a tap. Either way, it's really not as scary as it sounds. Give it a shot. Nothing to loose. Then call the dealer if you still can't get it out.


 This would be impossible due to fact that there is no room to get to the bolt with a drill let alone a center punch and hammer. You would have to remove the impeller shaft to accomplish this and that is a job way beyond my skill.


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## TomB985 (Dec 21, 2013)

honda928 said:


> This would be impossible due to fact that there is no room to get to the bolt with a drill let alone a center punch and hammer. You would have to remove the impeller shaft to accomplish this and that is a job way beyond my skill.


You can't even do that, the impeller shaft has a pulley welded to the other side of the shaft. That bolt MUST come out in order to remove the shaft. That is, of course, assuming I'm thinking of the right shear bolt. Are you talking about the one that goes through the impeller?


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

TomB985 said:


> You can't even do that, the impeller shaft has a pulley welded to the other side of the shaft. That bolt MUST come out in order to remove the shaft. That is, of course, assuming I'm thinking of the right shear bolt. Are you talking about the one that goes through the impeller?


Yes.


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## FLSTN (Sep 19, 2014)

*shear bolt*

Hs928,

all you have to do is listen to me as i had the same issue on same hs928.
Remove shear bolt on one of the augers so you can spin it freely to get your arms in to work on the impellers broken shear pin.
Take a 1'' long machine bolt (has to be slightly smaller diameter than shear pin) and tap the broken part of shear pin out with the side of a small hammer. If tapping on one side doesn't get it out, try tapping from the other side. Then install a new shear pin and reinstall the pin i told you to remove on one of the augers.
No need to pay a shop as it really is an easy fix !

Good luck


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

FLSTN said:


> Hs928,
> 
> all you have to do is listen to me as i had the same issue on same hs928.
> Remove shear bolt on one of the augers so you can spin it freely to get your arms in to work on the impellers broken shear pin.
> ...


 Did exactly what you said. However the broken piece would not come out!! As I stated in the reply I even applied WD to the hole and left overnight! No matter what we did the broken piece would not budge. we alternately turned the impeller and tried from both ends? My friend and I spent a good two hours but to no avail. Blower was picked up this am. Will advise of what took place at dealer.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

FLSTN said:


> Hs928,
> 
> all you have to do is listen to me as i had the same issue on same hs928.
> Remove shear bolt on one of the augers so you can spin it freely to get your arms in to work on the impellers broken shear pin.
> ...


You forgot to mention that the hole in the impeller for the bolt, MUST be lined up with the broken bolt in the impeller shaft. I normally use a nail, helps in case things are not lined up right.


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## FLSTN (Sep 19, 2014)

Roy P,

YOU ARE CORRECT, I FORGOT HE NEEDS TO LINE UP HOLE OR HE WILL NOT GET THE PIECE OF SHEAR BOLT OUT. 

THANKS FOR POINTING THAT OUT.


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

RoyP said:


> You forgot to mention that the hole in the impeller for the bolt, MUST be lined up with the broken bolt in the impeller shaft. I normally use a nail, helps in case things are not lined up right.


 That is probably why I could not drive the broken piece out. Thanks "RoyP" I will make a note in the event that this happens again.

Anyway the problem has been taken care of. The local dealer picked up the blower this am at 9:00 and returned it at 2:50 pm. Total cost including a new shear bolt, nut and delivery was $33. I was quite pleased with the cost. When I asked the mechanic how he removed the piece he indicated that he did exactly what "RoyP" said. He also said that he could see that when I was trying to drive the piece out the nut I was using was hitting the shaft due to holes not aligned. He used a small mirror and a flashlight to ensure the holes were lined up before he attempted to drive out the broken piece.
I would like to "Thank" everyone for chipping in on this and I have to say this forum is very active and very helpful.

Thanks again guys and the HS is now ready for anything Mother Nature may bring.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

honda928 said:


> That is probably why I could not drive the broken piece out. Thanks "RoyP" I will make a note in the event that this happens again.
> 
> Anyway the problem has been taken care of. The local dealer picked up the blower this am at 9:00 and returned it at 2:50 pm. Total cost including a new shear bolt, nut and delivery was $33. I was quite pleased with the cost. When I asked the mechanic how he removed the piece he indicated that he did exactly what "RoyP" said. He also said that he could see that when I was trying to drive the piece out the nut I was using was hitting the shaft due to holes not aligned. He used a small mirror and a flashlight to ensure the holes were lined up before he attempted to drive out the broken piece.
> I would like to "Thank" everyone for chipping in on this and I have to say this forum is very active and very helpful.
> ...


Sounds like that is a dealer worth keeping.


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## wdb (Dec 15, 2013)

Shryp said:


> Sounds like that is a dealer worth keeping.


I thought the same thing. $33 is a very, very good price, considering pickup/delivery.

I broke my first auger shear pin, ever, last week. Then the second and the third.  I guess my habit of running into trees, rocks, etc. with the front end of the machine will have to change! 

The old Crary spoiled me I guess; it had a clutch that slipped when the augers could not turn, instead of shear pins.


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## brickcity (Jan 23, 2014)

wow! $ 33 bucks to pik it up and bring it back. sounds like you have an honest mechanic.


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

brickcity said:


> wow! $ 33 bucks to pik it up and bring it back. sounds like you have an honest mechanic.


 
Our Honda dealer here has been bought by new owners and they have done a great job in turning it around. Excellent people to deal with from the small engine department to the car dealership. It is called Great Lakes Honda and they are really gaining a great reputation.

Thanks again guys for all of your tips and help. The next time I will remember to ensure that the holes are lined up before I start trying to push out the broken piece.

Thanks again...much appreciated!!


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## Paulsadog (Jan 29, 2015)

honda928 said:


> Our Honda dealer here has been bought by new owners and they have done a great job in turning it around. Excellent people to deal with from the small engine department to the car dealership. It is called Great Lakes Honda and they are really gaining a great reputation.
> 
> Thanks again guys for all of your tips and help. The next time I will remember to ensure that the holes are lined up before I start trying to push out the broken piece.
> 
> Thanks again...much appreciated!!


Just my HO but I dare say you should highlight this dealers excellent support with a letter to Honda. The dealer in my area would have come out to pick up the blower, if he was not to busy and replaced the shear pin, in a couple of days. He would have also returned the blower, again when he had the time. The pick up/return runs $75. Then there's the shop rate and the cost of the shear pin. I'm guessing I'd be looking at $100. My dealer is no more than 5 miles from the house.


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## honda928 (Jan 26, 2015)

Paulsadog said:


> Just my HO but I dare say you should highlight this dealers excellent support with a letter to Honda. QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Did that and sent copy to local dealer as well. Received and email from the local dealer owner with very kind words indicating that it was nice to see a customer send a letter of this type as more often than not the only letters they receive are very negative.


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