# Inherited Craftsman 5.0 HP - Starting Problem



## phil_gretz (Jan 12, 2015)

Hello all. I'm new to this forum. I inherited a Craftsman 536.885213 5.0HP 21" single stage snowblower with electric start from my mother's home last spring. 

I cranked it last week, and there was a strong "varnish smell". Uh oh.

So, I removed and cleaned the carburator (Tecumseh 640342), cleaned the spark plug, removed and cleaned the gas tank, replaced the fuel lines and in-line filter, and re-assembled.

Electric cranking this weekend - and no start.

The spark plug is "wet" after cranking.

The carb bowl has clean fuel in it after cranking.

I don't know where else to go - and am not experienced with engines at all, although I'm okay mechanically.

I'd appreciate your thoughts on what steps I should go to next. Thanks in advance for any and all help. Phil g.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Check for spark.

I use an adjustable-gap spark plug tester (check ebay, amazon or your local parts store). Set the gap to "SE" (small engine), connect the clip to the engine block, connect the other end to the spark plug lead. Pull the engine over a few times and look for a strong-blue spark.

One word of caution, I usually do this with the plug installed; its a little more compression but you're not creating a fuel cloud next to a spark tester


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

Sounds like you need a complete carb cleaning and rebuild. ALOHA from the frozen tundra.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Let it dry out and off, and check your spark. It is also not uncommon for the coil packs to go bad. It's not hard to swap, but you are going to need the engine model numbers. If it's a tecumseh, which I suspect, they will be on the engine tin, near the spark plug.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Check for spark.
> 
> I use an adjustable-gap spark plug tester (check ebay, amazon or your local parts store). Set the gap to "SE" (small engine), connect the clip to the engine block, connect the other end to the spark plug lead. Pull the engine over a few times and look for a strong-blue spark.
> 
> One word of caution, I usually do this with the plug installed; its a little more compression but you're not creating a fuel cloud next to a spark tester


Here's the spark tester in use (_no plug in this picture...I just finished rebuilding this engine...no fuel & I was spinning the flywheel by hand _)


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

classiccat said:


> Check for spark.
> 
> I use an adjustable-gap spark plug tester (check ebay, amazon or your local parts store). Set the gap to "SE" (small engine), connect the clip to the engine block, connect the other end to the spark plug lead. Pull the engine over a few times and look for a strong-blue spark.
> 
> One word of caution, I usually do this with the plug installed; its a little more compression but you're not creating a fuel cloud next to a spark tester


Good advice about the fuel cloud. I worked with a tech that checked for spark, well it had spark. He now has burn scars on his face and left arm. He was out of work for several months.


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## phil_gretz (Jan 12, 2015)

Wow. Thanks, everyone, for your replies and well wishes. I'll get a spark tester on my way home tonight and will test soonest. I'll report back.

@powershift93: you may be right. 

@classiccat: thanks for the caution.

@db9938: if no spark, I'll be following your advice next...


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Uh oh, well I'll apologize in advance. I may be off line tonight, it's a state holiday.


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

db9938 said:


> Uh oh, well I'll apologize in advance. I may be off line tonight, it's a state holiday.


we got you covered... what state holiday is it?


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## brickcity (Jan 23, 2014)

i think db thinks it's next monday. MLK day.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Um, football championship.... So if I jump on to here during, I'm not responsible for any of the advice I give.... Which may involve a chip tray, an iPad dock, script "O H I O" cleared from your yard, and a on-board beverage dispenser..... If your ok with that, then my imagination might get the best of us tonight.


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## brickcity (Jan 23, 2014)

Go ohio.


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## phil_gretz (Jan 12, 2015)

Okay, I'm back. I bought a simple adjustable spark tester, and on the wise advice of forum members, tested it away from the fuel side and with the spark plug in place. 

There is considerable spark when I run the electric start. So, what would I test next?

There is also still a varnish odor when I crank it, despite my cleaning the fuel intake and carburator portions thoroughly.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide... Phil G.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Thats some good news!!

Was the fuel supply off & the carb drained when you checked for spark? 

My apologies for not including that in the original suggestion! 

If there is fuel supply you will flood the engine. 

If its not flooded, it could be a sheared flywheel key throwing off the timing.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I would add some Lucas FI cleaner or Seafoam to your fuel to help clean up that smell. Old gas smell could also be coming from the machine where it was spilled when removing the carb. If running a tank or two of cleaner through it once you get it running doesn't get rid of the smell maybe a little engine cleaner and a hose this spring will do the job.

You know you have spark and if the plugs getting wet you know you have fuel. Might try a time or two getting it started without the choke at first to see if maybe it's just getting too much gas.

Does it fire or pop at all ?? Have you tried to give it a shot of starting fluid ??


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Yeah...and all of the coke in the combustion chamber is probably saturated with that nasty stuff; stink could be coming from the exhaust. gotta get this bad boy to fire up and burn this stuff off!!


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Plus 1 for stating fluid. Also clean the spark plug (I have a sand blaster for plugs) or with a propane torch to burn off all the nasty crap.


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## RoyP (Oct 16, 2014)

phil_gretz said:


> Hello all. I'm new to this forum. I inherited a Craftsman 536.885213 5.0HP 21" single stage snowblower with electric start from my mother's home last spring.
> 
> I cranked it last week, and there was a strong "varnish smell". Uh oh.
> 
> ...


Phil: I don't know your location. But a single stage 5 HP blower isn't worth putting a lot of time & money in it. My opinion.


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## time2time (Jan 8, 2015)

*Briggs 6.0 HP not starting*

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I cannot post a fresh one.

Long story short; not a snow blower, but a Craftsman 4-in-1 lawn vac (247-77055) with a Briggs 6.0 hp motor. Bought it used maybe 2 or 3 years ago and it always worked well (few pulls to start, then ran fine). Last time I went to use it (a few months back), it would not start. I pulled until my arm hurt, then tried starting fluid, but still no luck- would not catch at all. 

I am going to do some troubleshooting over the winter in hopes of having it for the spring. Going to start with some basics (fuel, ignition switch, check the plug). I am thinking that fuel problems are the biggest cause for not starting, but my thought is that ether should allow it to start (even if only momentarily). Would like to ask if that is a fair assumption.

If fuel problems were largely eliminated, assuming I would be looking at ignition. I want to start by making sure that I am not doing something truly bone-headed (verifying ignition kill switch and such), and pull/inspect the plug to make sure that it is not fouled. Next I will be picking up a plug tester to see if I have spark. Looking at something like this:






Main reason I am posting is to ask if my assumptions and approach seem correct, or whether there is an error or something significant missing in the process. Any thoughts or feedback appreciated.


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## rosco61 (Dec 8, 2014)

*Yard vacuum*

Did you have the leaf bag and or blower nozzle installed?
There's a safety switch that gets depressed when you install those accessories that is pressed. Until you satisfy that safety there is no spark and it will not run. Take the blower nozzle for instance. It has a piece of sheet metal that when mounted depresses that switch micro switch. If that sheet metal is bent it may not be pressing down on that rubber covered micro switch and again the engine won't start. 
My apologies if this has been checked thoroughly.


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## time2time (Jan 8, 2015)

No apologies necessary; I appreciate the response. 

Funny, but on the way into work I was just thinking about the interlock switch. I had verified that is depressed, but if the switch or wiring is bad, that would certainly kill the ignition and cause exactly those symptoms. When I start troubleshooting, plan to get the fluke and verify that the switch / circuit is not the problem.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

phil_gretz said:


> Okay, I'm back. I bought a simple adjustable spark tester, and on the wise advice of forum members, tested it away from the fuel side and with the spark plug in place.
> 
> There is considerable spark when I run the electric start. So, what would I test next?
> 
> ...


Sorry for the delay, and interruption. When you say clean, does this mean just the outside, and the throat of the carb, or are you removing it an disassembling?

Just trying to clarify.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

time2time said:


> Sorry to bump an old thread, but I cannot post a fresh one.
> 
> Long story short; not a snow blower, but a Craftsman 4-in-1 lawn vac (247-77055) with a Briggs 6.0 hp motor. Bought it used maybe 2 or 3 years ago and it always worked well (few pulls to start, then ran fine). Last time I went to use it (a few months back), it would not start. I pulled until my arm hurt, then tried starting fluid, but still no luck- would not catch at all.
> 
> ...


Don't forget to check for chaffed wires on the switch.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Back on page one he had said "So, I removed and cleaned the carburator (Tecumseh 640342)" so I assumed he took it apart and cleaned it which is why I suggested some of that smell could be the old stale gas that spilled on the engine when he pulled the carb. Someone else came up with a good one that since it hasn't been started and run up to temp some of that smell might be gas that's soaked into the carbon inside the cylinder and is getting pumped out when it's turned over ??

Right now I'm more concerned on if he can get it to even pop to know it's somewhat in time. Good spark, he's getting fuel but can't it to pop or fire and the next thing is checking to see if the flywheel key is sheared, IMHO.


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## suspicionofignorance2 (Jan 26, 2014)

My guess, flywheel key-- as some have already mentioned...or bad needle seat with rapid flooding, soaking the plug...? I suggest, pinch off the fuel line, remove the plug, spin the eng to expel any fuel, reinstall a good dry [or new] sparkplug, open the choke, give a single spray of carb cleaner in the air passage...crank the eng...if still a "no pop" or nothing...then pull the flywheel and change the key...


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## phil_gretz (Jan 12, 2015)

Thanks for the continued replies, everyone. I'm still here.

Yes, I removed the carburator and disassembled it while following diagrams and instructions on the web. The diagrams had a complete disassembly, and showed me how to clean even the tiniest vent holds in the carburator body and the bowl bolt.

I'm liking the suggestion of pulling the spark plug, pinching off the fuel line (after emptying the bowl residue with the spring loaded release) and cranking it to dry out the cylinder. Even though I wire brushed the spark plug, I may replace it as well. 

I don't have starter fluid at home, so will need to buy a can. I won't be able to get to it tonight, as my wife has other plans for me. But maybe Thursday evening. 

I'll write back with any results. Thanks again for all of the suggestions and for your patience. Phil


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## phil_gretz (Jan 12, 2015)

Kiss4aFrog said:


> Back on page one he had said "So, I removed and cleaned the carburator (Tecumseh 640342)" so I assumed he took it apart and cleaned it which is why I suggested some of that smell could be the old stale gas that spilled on the engine when he pulled the carb. Someone else came up with a good one that since it hasn't been started and run up to temp some of that smell might be gas that's soaked into the carbon inside the cylinder and is getting pumped out when it's turned over ??
> 
> Right now I'm more concerned on if he can get it to even pop to know it's somewhat in time. Good spark, he's getting fuel but can't it to pop or fire and the next thing is checking to see if the flywheel key is sheared, IMHO.


Thanks for your insights. Well, I squirted starter fluid for ~1.5 seconds into the carburator air intake and electric started it. It started and ran...for about two seconds. So, that says that the spark and timing are okay, but that no fuel is reaching the chamber.

I'm back to the carburator again? Maybe I didn't get the smallest inner parts clean enough? 

I followed the instructions that I found here:

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh Carb 640342 on a Sears 143.025071 Engine

So, I'm not sure what to do next. What say the collective you?

Thanks again, Phil


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I like show and tell better than just tell 

https://www.google.com/search?q=youtube+donnyboy+tecumseh+carb&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

So it's narrowed down to fuel. Is the fuel known good? Not mixed with diesel.. Is there a drain button on the carb bowl, does fuel **** out? If no drain remove the fuel line from the carb and see if gas drains out.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Well, that narrows it down. You can try to re-clean it, buy a new one, or get an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

I bought one like this:

Magnasonic MGUC500 Ultrasonic Jewelry & Eyeglass Cleaner Cleaning Machine - Walmart.com


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

Even a crappy carb with a half ass clean should attempt to run.


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## phil_gretz (Jan 12, 2015)

Okay. I'll have a go at the carburetor again. I see the dis-assembly videos, plus there are re-build kits for this one. 

@scrappy: yes, I removed and cleaned out the plastic fuel tank as well as replaced the fuel lines and the in-line fuel filter. The carb bowl fills, and it also drains with the spring-loaded drain outlet bolt-thing on the bottom of the bowl. It must be in the infuser nozzle thing with its o-rings. I didn't remove that originally. That's where I'm focusing next. Going away for a week, so I won't report back for at least 10 days.

Stay safe, everyone. And, thanks. Phil


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## scrappy (Dec 7, 2014)

phil_gretz said:


> Okay. I'll have a go at the carburetor again. I see the dis-assembly videos, plus there are re-build kits for this one.
> 
> @scrappy: yes, I removed and cleaned out the plastic fuel tank as well as replaced the fuel lines and the in-line fuel filter. The carb bowl fills, and it also drains with the spring-loaded drain outlet bolt-thing on the bottom of the bowl. It must be in the infuser nozzle thing with its o-rings. I didn't remove that originally. That's where I'm focusing next. Going away for a week, so I won't report back for at least 10 days.
> 
> Stay safe, everyone. And, thanks. Phil


keep us posted.


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

The sounds of what you described, sounds like the emulsion tube. And any blockage in it, would be detrimental in fuel flow.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

No matter how good you clean the carb, you are going to get nothing if the main jet or the tiny holes on the side of it are clogged. I am betting maybe you missed those little holes in the bowl nut?

Look at the pictures here.
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a

And watch the videos here.
https://www.youtube.com/user/donyboy73/search?query=tecumseh+carb


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## phil_gretz (Jan 12, 2015)

Shryp said:


> No matter how good you clean the carb, you are going to get nothing if the main jet or the tiny holes on the side of it are clogged. I am betting maybe you missed those little holes in the bowl nut?
> 
> Look at the pictures here.
> Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a
> ...


You win the bet, @Shryp! Our vacation was cancelled (Frontier cancelled the flight), and I came home and went straight to work on the snowblower. Pulled the carb again and, this time, focused on the main jet and the main nozzle/emulsion tube. Sure enough, the bottom hole of the main jet was clogged. I worked it with a wire, and went over all of the plug holes again, reassembled, squirted starter fluid and proceeded to flood my garage with white smoke.  Yay!

So, when it was all said and done, I couldn't have done it without the straightforward advice of you guys on this forum. Thanks so much, all.

Phil G.


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

AWESOME!!!! Old Craftsman blowers firing-up all over SBF today!!!!

Congrata Phil! This machine is now officially your baby!!!


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## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Sweet, another survivor!


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## CarlB (Jan 2, 2011)

Glad to hear you got it sorted. Those holes are almost invisible when they are clogged if you don't know where to look.


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## Sid (Jan 31, 2014)

This is why I like this site so much, people helping people, and yeah, those holes, big and small in that carb bolt/main jet, are probably 3/4s of all carb problems. Happy summer.
Sid


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## Cutter (Mar 29, 2017)

Shryp said:


> No matter how good you clean the carb, you are going to get nothing if the main jet or the tiny holes on the side of it are clogged. I am betting maybe you missed those little holes in the bowl nut?
> 
> Look at the pictures here.
> Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a
> ...



Totally correct. I had a 1998 Craftsman with an 8.5 Tecumseh on it.it started running poorly, and before I could actually get to fix it, it quit totally during a snowstorm. First I checked out Donyboy 73's channel on You tube, and found what was exactly the issue. After watching a couple of videos, went into the garage, tipped in on end, and removed the bowl nut. Somebody in this thread mentioned that the holes are almost invisible, and they were right. After finding and cleaning the holes, put it back together, and it started on the first pull. A grand total of 15 minutes, and I was back out blowing snow. I've since done the same to my Dad's blower, as we had identical machines, until I bought my Ariens.Thank you so much Donyboy73!:grin:


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