# My LED project (26" 3X HD 420CC)



## 2point2 (Sep 20, 2014)

I broke 2 shear pins last year swallowing up newspaper rolls, so I decided to put two 27W Leds on the bucket. These lights are IP67 so they should be able to handle the abuse of the occasional snow drift and blowing snow forward. 










OEM circuit (modified by me for my specific blower)









LED circuit. Notice that the original headlight is now DC. On Off On control for: Both, Off, and Headlight Only. :excl: DO NOT TIE THE DC GROUND TO THE CHASSIS, OR YOU WILL HAVE A VERY CONFUSING PROBLEM TO TROUBLESHOOT. :redface:









I didn't want to drill anymore holes than I had to... I don't mind replacing the cable tie mounts once a season. The belt cover was a perfect place to drill some holes for hole-mounted cable ties.


















Project Box from Sayal Electronics. Typical rectifier, cap, and fuse circuit. I had a harness from a surplus store in my toolbox for years, otherwise I would have cut one off at the autowreckers. 









All wired up, you can see the 1157 LED light from Princess Auto. My goal was to keep the circuit under 60W. CC Canada tells me that the stator can put out 5A. My blower runs at 16VDC at WOT, so that's 80W









CC left a perfectly sized hole for my On-Off-On switch k: The project box mounted with a couple zip ties. I have just enough room to pull out the fuse.









I don't have a pic, but there is a HUGE improvement in visibility.


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## planemech (Nov 24, 2013)

2.2 Thanks for the pics on your very clean install. This has given me some ideas for my
LED upgrade on my Ariens.


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## tinter (Apr 20, 2014)

I'm about to install 1 of the same lights on my Honda, do you need 2? Or is it just for the cool factor?


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## 2point2 (Sep 20, 2014)

tinter said:


> I'm about to install 1 of the same lights on my Honda, do you need 2? Or is it just for the cool factor?


I bought 2 because other people on here were buying two, and they seemed happy with the results?  

I guess it depends on your situation. There are no streetlights where I live, so the more light - the better. Every time I bumped the machine into something or broke a sheer pin it was because I couldn't see what was in front of me. 

If I was to start over I would consider doing something similar to the what CC did for the newer 30" track model. The offroad guys call these "light bars".


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## Advocate (Nov 29, 2015)

Great mod project. The machine looks fantastic!


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## Manfjourde (Dec 5, 2015)

I'd like to see them in action - try to post a pic when you can.


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## tinter (Apr 20, 2014)

I installed my single light after lunch, extremely bright. I can only imagine how bright your rig is.


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## canadagoose (Dec 5, 2014)

I bought a Cub this year with the light bar. I was using it last night out back near the trees and it really brightens things up. Another innovative idea from Cub Cadet ! I am very pleased with it


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## Stefan (Nov 27, 2015)

*More info on various factory LED lights.*



canadagoose said:


> I bought a Cub this year with the light bar. I was using it last night out back near the trees and it really brightens things up. Another innovative idea from Cub Cadet ! I am very pleased with it


Thanks for the post CanadaGoose.

The LED light bar you have mounted is MTD/Cub/Troy/White optional part number 753-08484. $88. I guess the dealer must have put it on because of the higher height of the housings on HDs.

MTD says it works with any 2012 or older snowblower series 500, 600, and 700 with a *3A/5A 20W/20W* PowerMore engine.
MTD could not tell me the output of any stator on any engine or series of snowblower.

Problem: 20W/3A = 6.7 Volts. ??? 5A x 12V = 60 Watts. ???

A stock *1141 bulb* uses 1.4A at ~12V. That's 20W.

My light meter read *333 LUX* directly in front of the headlight bulb and at the equivalent depth of the back of the chute worm gear support post. That distance from the lens cover surface is 16 inches, FYI.

The heated grips start at 1.1A and that rises to 1.4A when they just feel warm after about five minutes, FYI. Again, that's about 20W.

So where are they getting 3 and 5 Amps and then quoting 20/20 Watts for the two outputs?
I believe the 20/20 Watts is the rated power of installed devices from MTD or Cub.

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So, I have a few questions for you that should help some of us out. 

How is the 6 LED light bar mounted to the housing? 
Bolted? 
Double backed 3M Molding tape?

Next, can you measure the actual current draw at full thottle and idle? 

What is the voltage versus ground across this light bar at idle and FT?

Those numbers may sort of settle the stator output questions about a Cub Cadet or MTD blower for a 357 or 420 CC motor stator. I doubt they are 3 or 5 Amps.

What's the brightness of an 1141 bulb? It's rated in the literature at about 180 lumens. Lumens is not LUX and they are not interchangeable.

I have spent tons of time searching Troy, Cub, MTD, and *Zongshen engine* spec's for the _written down_ _engine spec's _ for the two stator outputs or ratings.

*I can't find a thing.*

Any help here would be good info for all of us.

FYI, for others, *some 2015 Craftsman Pro series blowers have a LED headlight*. It's part number 925-06095. $24. "LED Assembly" but does it have the LED with the socket? MTD told me, "Yes".
Cub told me it won't fit but the panel/console numbers for my Cub and their Pro series blowers are identical for that LED part, the lens cover, and the reflector.
Go figure.
This LED is sort of flush with the back of the lens housing molded into the entire console. It looks like a small LED flashlight is mounted behind the back of the reflector housing.
Blower 31AH54TI799 is the literature # (273-) 88870. 
Blower 31CH95SI799 is their # 88876.
Blower 31CH97SJ799 is their # 88878.

Thanks for any current and voltage values you can provide.

Stefan


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## canadagoose (Dec 5, 2014)

Hey there Stefan
_How is the 6 LED light bar mounted to the housing? 
Bolted? 
Double backed 3M Molding tape?_

My Cub Cadet 3X HDT came from the factory with the light bar already mounted. I know this was the only model my dealer had in stock that came from factory with mounted light bar. The other sizes and the 30 " HD wheeled did not have the light bar. I'm not sure if this is something Cub Cadet is going to start providing on all of their HD models or not. As to how it is attached , I think it might be a combo of 3M tape and bolted. I'll have a look tonight and try to get some pictures posted. Also next time I have it outside after dark I'll get some pics of the brightness it throws . I actually intended to do this by now but I keep forgetting to take my phone(or camera) out with me :facepalm_zpsdj194qh

As for measuring current draw and actual bulb brightness , I'm afraid that's beyond the scope of my knowledge and tool box. Sorry .
Maybe 2point2 could shed more light (pardon the pun) on this for you.:icon-shrug:

Best of luck and I'm sorry I couldn't help you out with most of your questions

Goose


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## VentoGT (Jan 7, 2016)

For what it's worth I just got a new 30HD Trac delivered and no light bar came with it, so I'm guessing it's a dealer installed option. I will mess with mine and see if I want to add that in future.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

There might me different opinions but having two lights helps to minimize shadows. If you only had 30 watts available and you're in an area with no street or house lights the shadows might be a problem so two 15 watt lights might be a better option than one 30 watt.

Also depends on cost, mounting locations and a bit "cool factor" but for me having two on a machine with enough output to run them makes sense. I'm out in the boonies and other than the moon I'm guessing something like a branch or frozen newspaper is going to be hiding in that shadow. :facepalm_zpsdj194qh
But my Craftsman only has 18 watts so I'm pretty much stuck with just one on that guy.


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## Stefan (Nov 27, 2015)

VentoGT said:


> For what it's worth I just got a new 30HD Trac delivered and no light bar came with it, so I'm guessing it's a dealer installed option. I will mess with mine and see if I want to add that in future.


Hi,

Pay attention. Here are some contrast processed photos of the ACTUAL underside of a Craftsman console and my Cub Console. Just look and see if yours looks the same as the Sears Pro Craftsman. Then check your console number against the Sears console. I did.

In the images a new problem arose. The wires look totally different. I could not find any part numbers for the harness with the Sears 925-04213 parts listed/listings but it surely looks looks like a drop in on a Cub.

Notice the mold marks shown as diagonal arrows pointing them out on both consoles. They are identical down to the mold flashing lines and a light leak on the upper right side. It has to be an exact console copy for both consoles and made in the same plant.

The Sears LED has to have a heat sink. It has to have a set of two or four diodes or a bridge rectifier somewhere to run the DC LEDs. It has to have or should have a capacitor of at least 200 microfarads to smooth out the rectified AC that is now pulsing DC.

So that raise the question, "Where are these AC to DC converter items?" There is a bulge in the harness of the LED unit in the attached images but it is not big enough for a fairly large capacitor. So, I think they are located elsewhere and maybe in a different wiring harness. You don't need to buy a new harness. Just wire the AC engine outlet with a bridge and cap. Use heat shrink or whatever. 

The pictures with guys mounting a 50 AMP!!! full wave diode bridge are just super overkill for a 1-3 amp circuit out in the cold. For my electric chute rotation knockoff of a Troy Bilt, I just hide the diode switches with heat shrink on them in a wire loom going across the limit switches. These switches stop the motor from grinding up the gear train inside the Grainger motor housing. See a different posting for all that stuff.

AdvanceAuto in town has a 16W QuadFire four LED cube made by Lapena. $60. I don't know about the quality.

The MTD Light bar is the way to go, IMO, but it is not cheap at $90. 

A Rigid Industries D-series Cube is $110 and on youtube you can see them drag testing them behind a truck and smashing the lens with a large pin punch. They have to be one of the most rugged. A local dealer told me he uses them for rock climbing and he wore the Rigid labeling on the front down to now say, "ID" from hitting all the rocks. These aren't cheap either. 1568 raw lumens. Raw?

I plan to get a LUX meter reading on the Lapena "QuadFire" at Advance Auto store soon. They will have the lights on so I'll get a baseline LUX and a LED LUX reading plus the baseline.

There are options out there but you might have to make them work for your blower.

HTH,

Stefan


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## canadagoose (Dec 5, 2014)

VentoGT said:


> For what it's worth I just got a new 30HD Trac delivered and no light bar came with it, so I'm guessing it's a dealer installed option. I will mess with mine and see if I want to add that in future.


My light bar was factory installed. When I check the Cub Cadet Canada website , only the 30 HDT comes with the light bar
http://www.cubcadet.ca/equipment/en...3x-three-stage-power/3x™-30-hdt-3x-30hdt-2015

When I check the Cub Cadet US website , only the 30 HD comes with the light bar.http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/snow-throwers/3X-three-stage-power/3x-30-hd-led


Go figure eh ? :smiley-confused013:

I'm sure having the dealer install , or even installing it yourself , would be no problem

I'll get some pics taken next time I'm out and get them posted


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## Stefan (Nov 27, 2015)

*Lapena's QuadFire Lux and Lumen Values at 16 Inches..*



canadagoose said:


> My light bar was factory installed. When I check the Cub Cadet Canada website , only the 30 HDT comes with the light bar
> http://www.cubcadet.ca/equipment/en...3x-three-stage-power/3x™-30-hdt-3x-30hdt-2015
> 
> When I check the Cub Cadet US website , only the 30 HD comes with the light bar.http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/snow-throwers/3X-three-stage-power/3x-30-hd-led
> ...


Hi Goose,

It might be that the 420 cc has a larger alternator output but the 500, 600, and 700 series can use the light bar says MTD. It must be a light perk when buying the larger width blower.

I went to Advance Auto to make some measurements. All measurements were made at 16 inches from the light source face plates.

Here's a reference. CREE 100 watt light bulb 950 Lux outside in a lamp holder which converts to 294 Lumens, LM, at 16 inches.

Quadfire 6200 -200 (store) = 6000 Lux or 1856 LM. The QuadFire box says 1568 LM. So my measurement was close and I believe the box now. It has Cree 4W LEDs for 16W. I had to estimate the 16 inches based on one foot floor tiles lines.

They had another light with 4 LEDs at 3W or 12W. $40. I didn't write down the name. Sorry. It looked to plastic to me and much dimmer in the store.
2800 Lux or 866 Lumens. It's about half the number of lumens of the above Quad Pod.

The clerk and I when outside between the stores in a dark narrow area to see how bright the QuadFire was. He has the light bar and claims it is fantastic.

The QuadFire was very bright and had a center spot beam that made the grass bluish in the spot area. IT had good peripheral lighting.

The 12W square pod light was much dimmer and close to half the brightness (grass looked green not highlighted blue) and my calculations showed that.

The stock Cub #1141 bulb at 16" is 333 Lux or 103 LM. Very dim.

So, the QuadFire is about 15 times brighter at 16 watts. 

MTD and Cub don't say what the optional light bar lumen level is.
"3A/5A 20W/20W", what's that a set of spec's for at 12V?

I want to digress a bit. This below is the series circuit set up of my blower and my neighbors installed heated grip kit. The wire colors were identical and the switch location doesn't match the published location or what we found on our series circuit order and wire colors.

The US National Electric Code never switches the white neutral wire like MTD shows in the Professional Manual circuit equivalent locations. In fact, they really do switch the hot line first, but that's not what the published wiring diagram shows.

The real US Cub order of items and wire colors are: Start at DC Alt, Red B+ wire, Grip-Switch SPST, Blue wire, 7.5A fuse(!!), red/with white wire, 3.6 ohm Left Grip, Orange wire, 3.6 ohm Right Grip, the Green wire then goes to splice in with the green ground wire terminal on and 'below' the headlight bulb and then one green wire from that double green wire terminal goes to ground. If you are testing voltages or trying to find a circuit problem, this is the order of the circuit items on both our machines. He has a 526SWE 208cc from 2013.

HTH,

Stefan


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## 2point2 (Sep 20, 2014)

Just used the machine for the first time this year. WOW, what a difference some extra light makes. Pretty much like blowing snow in the day time now. . so glad I did this modification.


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## ajl (Feb 2, 2016)

*3x led conversion*

This looks like a great project. Please provide the electronics info,
Thanks


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## Ajammer (Oct 1, 2016)

I installed the LED light bar on my Cub Cadet 26" HD blower! The stock dash light just wasn't throwing enough light! The LED light bar is awesome!! Thinking of putting a switch on it as its not needed during daylight. I want to replace the dash light w their LED one that comes standard on like the 30HD track that comes w the LED light bar installed factory. Cub has said they don't sell it as a kit, that I'd have to purchase all the parts separately?! I can't imagine the light assemblies being that much different?! Incandescent to LED??! Does anyone know if I even need to get all these "parts" or can I simply find an LED bulb to replace it with?! Also can't get a straight answer from Cub on the specs of the alternator?! Was thinking of maybe adding more LED lights but not sure it's capable?! From what I've read the alternator actually puts out AC not DC??! If anyone can fill me in on these matters I'd greatly appreciate it!! As far as the 3 stage Cubs performance in the snow, nothing compares to it!! Like a hot knife through butter!! I've used all the "big" name blowers and the Cub gets the gold!!!! Just awesome!!!! Only complaint is the stock headlight position and that its incandescent. Other than that the machine is a beast!!! Happy blowing!!'


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## apamato (Mar 29, 2017)

Stefan said:


> FYI, for others, *some 2015 Craftsman Pro series blowers have a LED headlight*. It's part number 925-06095. $24. "LED Assembly" but does it have the LED with the socket? MTD told me, "Yes".
> Cub told me it won't fit but the panel/console numbers for my Cub and their Pro series blowers are identical for that LED part, the lens cover, and the reflector.
> Go figure.
> This LED is sort of flush with the back of the lens housing molded into the entire console. It looks like a small LED flashlight is mounted behind the back of the reflector housing.
> ...


Sorry for bring up a thread that is over 1 year old. 

Per MTD the 925-06095 is a direct replacement for the incandescent headlamp bulb # 725-0963, 925-0963. 

Optional LED Upgrade for OEM 725-0963 & 925-0963 Standard Bulb


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## Stefan (Nov 27, 2015)

*My CUB Cadett new MTD 753-08484 LED light bar kit from Lowes.*



canadagoose said:


> Hey there Stefan
> _How is the 6 LED light bar mounted to the housing?
> Bolted?
> Double backed 3M Molding tape?_
> ...


End old posting.





Today, Nov 8, 2019, I got an MTD LED light bar kit from Lowes. *753-08484* part number. Special Order Desk. Free shipping.



It is called a *snow PLOW* light at the Lowes webpage. DUH?



I got it, tested it, and it installs on my CUB Tracker 700 engine just like the Cub came from MTD.


Here are a few hints. The connectors by the engine just get tapped into as a Y splice onto each of the two wires (DC black and AC white wires in the kit) and from the Light Kit. The Cub engine DC wire is red and the mating kit wire is a black colored wire. The engine yellow wire is the kit white wire. The kit fits all the engines series as stated and comes with a Standard bucket and HD metal bucket template to drill. So, the kit fits standard flat topped housings and heavy duty sloped blower housings with the proper engine series number and year range, after 2012.


The kit has a longer HD harness and a shorter Standard harness with all plugs and sockets attached.


The LED light can be mounted above your right hand controls on a custom bent plate attached to the right side railing's two hex bolts. I used a Simpson 16-18" HD flat plate and a cross metal piece drilled out using the template hole spacing for the LED lights mounting. I drilled no holes in the snow blower as it came from the factory.


One side of the LED housing is for standard mounting and the other flip side is for the sloped HD mounting on the blower housing. It's not made that clear in the instructions, IMO. Drill two holes for STD housing, three for a HD housing, do what I did- -no holes drilled.

You can test the LEDs with the connectors installed and one set of alligator clips for the green ground wire going to the engine frame. Start the engine and plug in the LEDs. If they all light, you are good go to mount it wherever the longer harness will let you. I wanted mine up higher on the side pointing down. It's less snow or snow white outs when lit up away from the blower housing, IMO. Take your pick.


For you chute electrical motor rotator wannabes, W W Grainger has changed the perfect Troy Bilt motor knock off number to 52Je52 for my faster 17 RPM motor with an included black vinyl round motor covering. See my other posts, if they still exist here from about Nov, 2016. ANY motor setup should have diodes across the limit switches to stop rotation when you hold the motor to ON, after the chute has stopped, and it is at its limit of rotation. ALWAYS use diode switching across the N.C. push button limit switch contacts used to reverse the direction of rotation with your toggle switch. ALWAYS. No diodes? No reverse! The switch is open when the chute stops rotation but the diode is not. The diode allows the motor to release the push button and close the contacts when you change the toggle switch/joy stick rotation direction.



HTH,


Stefan


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## BNSFguy (Nov 2, 2019)

Great job mounting those 2 LED's. They look great !!! I'd like to mount some additional lighting on my Ariens RapidTrak as the stock light leaves a lot to be desired. I love the CC "LED Light Bar". I think every blower should have something similar. It puts the light where you need it: out in front of your blower without causing any shadows like what you get from lights mounted in the dash or control panel from the chute being in the way. Great job by CC on the LED Light bar. I'm a jealous Ariens owner.


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## Bulldogsz24 (Dec 1, 2020)

Well I don't know if I should add to this post or create my own. My FIL gave me his 3x (probably 3-4 years old). I had done the rectifier and lights on my previous snowblower, but new blower means new setup!

So I followed the wiring diagram previously posted, I also installed a couple of lighted switches, one for factory light (converted to LED), one for floods. I mounted my project box using a horizontal bar clamp mount, 









Universal-Fit Tubular Surface Mounting Bracket for 4X4 Vehicle Truck & SUV Auxiliary Offroad Light on 0.75", 1" & 1.25" Diameter Tube Bar, Durable Weatherproof Aluminum Alloy Black Finish, 2 PCS Set, Light Bars - Amazon Canada


Universal-Fit Tubular Surface Mounting Bracket for 4X4 Vehicle Truck & SUV Auxiliary Offroad Light on 0.75", 1" & 1.25" Diameter Tube Bar, Durable Weatherproof Aluminum Alloy Black Finish, 2 PCS Set in Light Bars.



www.amazon.ca






















A buddy of mine builds custom motorcycles, so he was nice enough to make me these awesome light mounts from my little cardboard prototype. I didn't want to drill holes, so figured why not use the drift cutter mount! Works awesome, and I could actually still mount the drift cutters if I wanted to.










(This was before he welded it up, cleaned it up and powder coated it for me) it fits PERFECTLY! 

I mounted the light up switches just to the inside of each hand grip









Here is the wire routing and finished light mounts 

























Waited until dark, and snapped some pics. I'm not sure if the normal factory light is usually this pathetic, or if the led doesn't utilize the halogen light housing properly to project it, but this is the factory light only (but an led)









But REALLY happy with the forward mounted led's!! 








Here's with both sets of lights on


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

Awesome job !


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

@Bulldog,

Nice job ..... makes me want to ad lights to my machines that don't have them, but I have street lights, as well as porch and garage flood lights, and never needed them ... retired now, and certainly don't need them, as I only work in the daylight anyways ....


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## Bulldogsz24 (Dec 1, 2020)

oneacer said:


> @Bulldog,
> 
> Nice job ..... makes me want to ad lights to my machines that don't have them, but I have street lights, as well as porch and garage flood lights, and never needed them ... retired now, and certainly don't need them, as I only work in the daylight anyways ....


Haha, we only have one street light on our block and it is nowhere near me!! I usually end up doing my driveway and the elderly couple across the street, my single parent neighbour, and the single nurse across the street when there's any substantial snow, plus the sidewalks on both sides of the street for my half of the street, so never know where there will or won't be lights! I don't mind helping others when I can. My dad laughs at me and my led lights, I have 30 of them all in my deck, plus in ground path lights, just like lights!! Haha


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome to SBF Bulldogsz24









Thanks for the detailed show and tell.


.


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