# Picking up a New(Older) Toro 826



## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

Picking up a Older 826 Toro Snowblower.
I've read around the forum and I've also checked out the machine the other day.
There's rust all over the body, but nothing too major and seeing it's an older machine, it was in pretty good condition.
Service was already done on it and it started up with 1 pull which was great. 

Was wondering if there's anything else that I should be watching out for.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Those models have wheels clutches that can become worn or rusted together. Those two rods on the handles bars operate the clutches at each wheel. It's basically the old steering assist design. lock one in and it drives that side compensating steering that way. Lock both sides for ultimate traction.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

Good info thank you. 

We did engage and disengage the clutch and it worked great as far as the test goes.

Still trying to figure out why the Auger part is a large drum. the newer ones seem like it's just the blades rotating.


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## threeputtpar (Jan 16, 2014)

The Toro drum design was their first anti-clogging system. No matter how fast you plow through the snow, the drum will only let so much into the impeller preventing it from clogging. The snow that doesn't make it into the impeller will just be thrown forward and scooped up again. It's actually a really good design, but that 826 won't have problems going through some really deep snow. I used to have one, and kick myself for selling it.


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

never sell these machines. i have a 726 i picked up about a month ago. i would watch out to make sure that the gearbox is checked yearly and add washers to the ends of the axles if the differentials wont fully engage


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

My Powershift has the "drum" auger too. The new anti clog system uses a plastic housing to redirect the excess snow back to the auger as Threeputtpar mentioned.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

43128 said:


> never sell these machines. i have a 726 i picked up about a month ago. i would watch out to make sure that the gearbox is checked yearly and add washers to the ends of the axles if the differentials wont fully engage


Yea i'm excited about the upcoming winter.
I was going to pick up a new one from Lowes. Troy-Bilt 2410 $500 bucks, but this Toro came up as a barter deal so when the deal goes through~ i'll be good


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

I have a Troy 2410 and I can tell you that you're way ahead with this older Toro. There isn't anything wrong with the Troy it's just a basic model made strong enough to do the job as long as you don't suck in a frozen newspaper or bump it parking your car. I prefer the older stuff that's built like a tank. If I ran into the old Craftsman or one of the Ariens I'd be more worried about the CAR !!


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

MAZEL TOV on that 1. it will serve you well. for a long,long time.:emoticon-south-park


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

Update: 

I took Delivery and I will be posting photos possibly tomorrow when its bright out.
I have the Briggs and Stratton Engine 8hp. With the big red squarish fuel tank.

I was told that I can keep it filled with Gas and Stabilizer and it should be ok til winter. Or I can run it completely out of gas and leave it that way.

What's the best way to keep the carb clean so I don't have to do work on it before use. Oil is good and clean since it was checked and I was told to use 5W-30. 

Thing is super loud and my neighbor got a taste of it as he was outside. I doubt he'll mind though and probably will be thanking me in the winter time since it's a shared driveway and I'll be blowing it.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

Here she is


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## threeputtpar (Jan 16, 2014)

That's a good looking machine for being 35+ years old, nice score!

Like PS93 said, make sure to pull the wheels off and grease up the shaft and the drive couplings so nothing rusts together. It appears from the pics that everything is as it should be as far as any missing parts. The heater boxes on the B&S engines never covered the whole carb like the Tecumsehs do.

One thing I'd suggest is to pull the chute off and either sand it and paint it gloss black or hit it as is with POR15. With a smoother surface than the rusted one I'm guessing it has, it will throw the snow better.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

Yes I thought about taking it apart to sand. I may actually replace or rebuild the carburetor too. I noticed that when I went to start her up and did a couple pulls, gas was leaking a little bit. It started up fine. 
Good thing about getting the parts painted is, my in-laws own a auto body shop so I can do it at the shop.

I had a quick question. In the summer time if I go to start this, do I need to put the choke on? or is it suppose to start without the choke.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Bryan, If you're going to work on the carb, this will help.
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton Medium Two-Piece Flo-jet Carburetor
My expereince with small engines is each one has it's own blood pressure. Warm or cold some like choke, some hate it. You have to find a spot and always use it. Snowblowers behave quite different in the June sun compared to January wind:smiley-confused009: I'd take that tank off and swish it clean with some fresh gas a few times, see what you get out. Personally, I always replace all the fuel lines, whether lawn tractor, push mower, string trimmer, snowblower.....eliminates questions when it's running for intended use. All of that starts with the fuel tank. Wish you good luck with your new beast!


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

my 826 leaks gas also if I give it too much chock, congrats


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## threeputtpar (Jan 16, 2014)

My former 826 needed choke everytime to start, warm weather or cold. It also needed half choke to run correctly, so it was more likely that it has some minor carb issues. This was back before I took an interest in OPE engines and could fix things myself, so I just ran it like that for several seasons. It still performed great.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

This is a refresh. Snow is coming this weekend. Going to pick up some fresh gas on Thurs or Fri and get her ready for her first job.

Should I start her up on friday for a bit so that she's ready for saturday?


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## bad69cat (Nov 30, 2015)

Yeah, I would. Good way to find out where she likes the choke to be and familarize yourself with any quirks you may run into. I bet she will run like a dream though..... good luck! We have gotten very little of the white stuff around the midwest. You guys are robbing us of it all! ;>P


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

This is our real first snowfall (NJ). Pretty crazy that it's almost the end of Jan to get any real snow. 
But I've been waiting all this time to test it out.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

So i fired her up today. She's been sitting around for like 4 months in the garage.
It started up in 3 pulls. 

Now the weird thing is after I ran it for about 10 minutes turn it off. Went back to start her up and no matter how many pulls she won't start. 
There is some fuel leakage from the carb, could that be the issue?


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## guilateen02 (Nov 23, 2014)

Could be a stuck float bowl and needle assembly. When taking the bowl and carb apart be careful not to tear the paper looking diaphragm or you will need a new one.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

would this carb rebuild kit work?
Briggs Stratton Carburetor Carb Rebuild Kit Fits Models 190401 190402 190403 | eBay

38150 Serial 9007749

Also if I get a new carb, the float etc.. is already build in right?
If that's the case, would this work?

New Carburetor for Briggs Stratton 390323 394228 7 8 9 HP Engines Carb 47T | eBay


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

iambryan said:


> would this carb rebuild kit work?
> Briggs Stratton Carburetor Carb Rebuild Kit Fits Models 190401 190402 190403 | eBay
> 
> 38150 Serial 9007749
> ...


that replacement carb should be complete...looks like it even comes with an intake gasket. 

If you do decide to rebuild, be sure to remove the emulsion tube first.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

classiccat said:


> that replacement carb should be complete...looks like it even comes with an intake gasket.
> 
> If you do decide to rebuild, be sure to remove the emulsion tube first.
> 
> Rebuild Briggs and Stratton Updraft Carb


Not sure what i'm gonna do yet.
At $20 bucks for the replacement carb shipped. May end up just replacing the whole thing vs rebuilding the current one.

When i put in the serial on the toro site it lists 

Briggs Stratton 

190402-0989-01

Does the last 2 number matter at all? 01 vs lets say 99


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

iambryan said:


> Not sure what i'm gonna do yet.
> At $20 bucks for the replacement carb shipped. May end up just replacing the whole thing vs rebuilding the current one.
> 
> When i put in the serial on the toro site it lists
> ...


i don't understand the discrepancy with those last 2 numbers...I've been ignoring them (rebuilding the 7hp version of your motor).


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

classiccat said:


> i don't understand the discrepancy with those last 2 numbers...I've been ignoring them (rebuilding the 7hp version of your motor).


Yea it's really strange what those last two numbers stand for.
I'm going to pickup a new carb and just do a switcharoo and see if it runs.

Also trying to score a electric starter so I don't have to pull start this.


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

Got it to work today. 

When it was running it was definitely in beast-mode. Throwing show like 15-20ft easy. This is snow from last night into early this morning. (Northern NJ).

Had a moment where it stalled out after about 5 minutes. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so and went back at it. 
There were moments when the machine seem to be choking and started to stall when the auger was engaged along with the drive. As soon as I disengaged both the engine would purr again.
What would be the cause of this? (I was sort of low on gas but would that be the cause?) 
Overall spent about 2 hours doing the driveway and sidewalks 50 ft deep by 15ft at the widest. A lot of time due to shuffling the cars around.
Also the drive way is about 30-35 degree incline. How do I increase traction? Would chains be my best bet?

Photos of the done drive way coming up shortly.
The snow stuck on the side of the house is from the Toro lol that's about 12-14ft up.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

iambryan said:


> Got it to work today.
> 
> When it was running it was definitely in beast-mode. Throwing show like 15-20ft easy. This is snow from last night into early this morning. (Northern NJ).
> 
> ...


 Yeah sure you betcha, chains might be the ticket for that app.k:k:k:k:k:


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## iambryan (May 21, 2015)

This is a resurrected thread, giving it away free to anyone that needs/wants it. Needs maintenance and some work NNJ 07657


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## PhilThefarmer (Dec 21, 2020)

threeputtpar said:


> That's a good looking machine for being 35+ years old, nice score!
> 
> Like PS93 said, make sure to pull the wheels off and grease up the shaft and the drive couplings so nothing rusts together. It appears from the pics that everything is as it should be as far as any missing parts. The heater boxes on the B&S engines never covered the whole carb like the Tecumsehs do.
> 
> One thing I'd suggest is to pull the chute off and either sand it and paint it gloss black or hit it as is with POR15. With a smoother surface than the rusted one I'm guessing it has, it will throw the snow better.


Tha depend, I have a 1132 that has a cover on top+a side panel to protect the carb


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

threeputtpar was Last seen Dec 3, 2018


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

iambryan said:


> This is a resurrected thread, giving it away free to anyone that needs/wants it. Needs maintenance and some work NNJ 07657


You give it away yet?


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## Dusty (Dec 13, 2018)

You should have bought mine, mint 100% serviced, ready to go.








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