# Ariens ST824 Auger Spring Broken....HELP



## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

Hi All, I appreciate any help you can give. The Auger Pulley tension spring broke today on my 1994 Ariens ST824. I found the part online and could order a new one. I just can't figure out how it attaches?

I've been doing searches on these forums, youtube, google etc.

It's not the drive pulley spring - it's definetly the auger as the belt is very loose unless the auger stayes engaged. 

THANKS SO MUCH to anyone that can point me in the right direction. I appreciate it!


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

Just an FYI - this spring is internal and attaches to the auger pulley system. Again, thanks for anyone that can assist, much appreciated.


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

Is this the spring you are talking about? Part 37 in the drawing which I hope is attached.


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

YES! Part 37 of that schematic - that's the spring! Any idea of how it attaches? Thanks!


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

both ends have a hook, and one attaches to the clutch lever through what appears to be a hole in the lever. The drawing is not clear on where the long end of the spring attaches, but it may hook over the bolt that holds the idler pulley. Get the new spring in your hands, and perhaps you can figure it out by attaching the short loop where you know it goes and seeing if the is a specific hole in the bracket behind the idler pulley. I see a hole in part 24 bracket that might be the spot.


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

Thanks Skutflut for taking the time to respond and post the diagram. Much appreciated! I ordered the spring and should have it by Weds. I'll post some pictures if I figure it out and hopefully that can help the next person. Thanks again.


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GMorning H123, Just to be clear, the belt that engages the auger belt should be loose until the auger is engaged. The spring you are trying to replace should be pulling the pulley away from the belt when you release the lever? Thanx, J


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

If you look at the attached image, I think what you're talking about is the upper of the two springs.

One end goes through a hole in the metal "tab" that sticks off the clutch shaft (or whatever it's called), the other hooks into a hole in the housing.


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

JayzAuto1 said:


> GMorning H123, Just to be clear, the belt that engages the auger belt should be loose until the auger is engaged. The spring you are trying to replace should be pulling the pulley away from the belt when you release the lever? Thanx, J


Hi JayzAuto - The belt is loose until the auger is engaged. In fact - it's so loose it comes undone unless the auger is engaged. At least this is my experience now that the spring broke. I had to finish snow blowing my driveway by keeping the auger engaged 100% of the time. (19 inches on Saturday for us and I have 125 foot driveway.) I thought the spring kept tension on the auger pulley - just enough to keep the belt from having too much slack without the auger being engaged? Thanks for the post


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

ELaw said:


> If you look at the attached image, I think what you're talking about is the upper of the two springs.
> 
> One end goes through a hole in the metal "tab" that sticks off the clutch shaft (or whatever it's called), the other hooks into a hole in the housing.


THANKS ELaw! I sincerely appreciate the photo! That helps me very much!


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

hondas123 said:


> I thought the spring kept tension on the auger pulley - just enough to keep the belt from having too much slack without the auger being engaged?


Unfortunately the spring does the opposite of what you think. It returns the idler to the maximum "de-tensioned" position when you release the auger drive handle.

If the belt is coming off, it's probably one or more of the following:
1. The the belt is worn - the solution to this is easy, replace the belt.
2. The idler pulley is misadjusted - solution of course is to adjust it.
3. The guides that keep the belt in place when it's not tensioned are missing or positioned improperly. There should be one or two wire thingys on the engine to keep the belt from coming off the pulley, and a sheel metal one that sits under the auger pulley (and frequently rusts out).

#3 is the least important... the guides are there mainly as a backup in case things aren't quite right in "belt world".


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GEvening H123, ELaw is correct, but I'd like to add to that list of possibilities. On most of those style auger drives, there should be a belt/pulley brake at the bottom of the large pulley. It is normally at the end of the arm with that idler pulley. It will normally be resting against the pulley (essentially holding the belt 'on' the pulley), and be released as the handle is pressed to activate the auger belt. It can be seen from under the machine (in the service position), with the bottom cover removed. One other note, those belt guides that SHOULD be attached to the block, close to the crank pulley, are designed to keep the belt from dragging on the pulley, when the handle is released. They are rather important to the operation and longevity of the belt. Service publications refer to the belt having the proper amount of "Bloom" when the belt is relaxed. They are rather critical, not hard to adjust and often bent out of position by the uninformed when the belts are removed or changed. You may want to double check their position. GLuck, J


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

THANK you all so much for your help! I finally got a chance to take a closer look today and took the service panel off on the underside. As JAYZAUTO1 mentioned, the brake at the bottom of the large pulley is loose. It isn't connected to anything and moves freely back and forth. I'm assuming there is also a spring for that arm? 

ANY help, pictures, links, tips are so much appreciated! I'm a complete NOOB, with these machines. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and would love to fix this myself to save the $$. 

Thanks everyone!!


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

hondas123 said:


> As JAYZAUTO1 mentioned, the brake at the bottom of the large pulley is loose. It isn't connected to anything and moves freely back and forth. I'm assuming there is also a spring for that arm?


Yep, there is!


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

THANKS ELAW!!! That helps a ton! Very much appreciated!


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

THANKS again everyone! I had time this morning to work on my snowblower and she's back to running like new! I wouldn't of had a clue how to fix it if it wasn't for the kindness of everyone here offering help. Very much appreciated! Enjoy the weekend and thanks again! Cheers! 

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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

GMorning H123, Looks as if you should invest in new skid shoes and shave bar, as well as new carriage bolts, before it wears the tub out. It would be a shame to grind that tub up since it;s working so well now. GLuck, Jay


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## hondas123 (Jan 8, 2017)

Hey JayzAuto1!! You've got a great eye! I actually noticed the same with the skid shoes when I was working on it - one is completely broken. I ordered new ones yesterday. I'm embarrassed to say I didn't give the scraper bar much thought - but after your post I took a look at it and you're absolutely correct! It's worth the $28 investment - so needless to say I've ordered that along with new carriage bolts. I appreciate all your help! Thanks! - Jeff


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## JayzAuto1 (Jul 25, 2016)

H123, I've brought this up before, and it's only my opinion, I'm sure others will disagree.....BUT, as far as hardware goes, I just use the cheap hardware store grade 5 nuts/bolts/washers. For several reasons. 1) Cheaper, ESP compared to the prices that the parts houses get when you buy such things as skids and shave bars!!!! 2) They break off easy when it's time to replace said items. I'm not gonna waste time saving $3 worth of hardware when repairing/replacing. Not to mention that many will have to be cut off. i normally just tighten the bolts until they snap when replacing. Grade 8 hardware is overkill,,,pricey and unnecessary. Stainless is pricey and will sometimes gall when removing. Galvanized is overkill also, in my opinion. GLuck, J


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