# Craftsman Model 247.88790 with a drive problem



## freddyf (Jan 9, 2017)

Craftsman 9 HP - 28 inch with a Tecumseh LA318SA engine (2005).When I test this snowblower on black pavement it will go through all the drive speeds properly. When put under load (blowing snow) it will occasionally stop going forward . I have to then either give it a push and/or shift drive speeds to get it moving again. The belts are relatively new (and looked OK) in the spring and I did clean the friction wheel disk at that time.
Any idea what could be causing this and what I should check? If it is recommended that I change the friction wheel rubber is this a do it yourself project . The owners manual says "several components must be removed and special tools are needed" to complete this task. Can just the rubber be replaced on this blower or is a whole new friction wheel/rubber replacement required. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## The Q (Dec 19, 2016)

A Craftsman model number would help.


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## freddyf (Jan 9, 2017)

Snowblower made by MTD for Sears
Model 31AE5HTG799, 


Sear #247.88790


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

your friction heel is out of adjustment or may need to be replaced


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## The Q (Dec 19, 2016)

Check out donnyboy videos on youtube. He has a lot of good videos replacing the friction wheel rubber and more.


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## Anotherdave (Dec 30, 2017)

I have read several posts on different forums about drive/no drive problems and have suffered myself for the pasr 2 winters.
Looooong story short....the hinge to adtust discharge angle on top of discharge chute is not sealed and "squirts" snow back through itself or on either side of hinge onto blower motor .....it melts and runs down onto friction plate....rubber on friction disc slips on water.....poor / no drive .Keep pushing and drive will heat up a little and some drive returns or stop auger and water may run off disc and improve drive.
The fix......take out bolts holding discharge angle chute and wrap a piece of tin around sides and back of chute overlapping the chute itself and secure it with the bolts removed from the angle plate. 
Even the smallest "squirt" will get to the driveplate / friction disc quite quickly and reduce power posssibly worse when you blow one way or the other.
If you wnt to test this fix simply put a damp cloth over the back and sides of the hinge/seam on your dischage chute.

Reember the dog and the pork chop bone....this too will pass...it just seems painfuul at the time.


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