# 924039 Interlock Problem



## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

I have a 924039 that won't start unless the auger interlock lever or the tractor clutch lever is engaged. If I engage either lever the machine starts fine but dies the second I release either lever. I'm not trying to start it with the auger engaged- both the attachment and speed control levers are in neutral. A prior owner obviously had the same problem and attached a hose clamp to force the auger interlock to be permanently engaged. I've removed that clamp hoping to restore the blower to the correct and safe operating condition. I've checked the adjustments for the clutch and interlock levers and they appear to be correct.

The wiring connectors on the lower left side of the engine housing are also correct as I've compared everything to a properly functioning 924026 that's essentially the same machine. The on/off key functions properly too.

Is there a wiring switch / contact somewhere in the tractor body that's malfunctioning? That's my only guess but I don't know where to look for such a contact....I do see a couple of wiring couplers in the body. Any advice is greatly appreciated.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

I think if you put the snowblower in the service position and then remove the lower belly pan, you should see the wiring for the interlock safety switch and then the interlock switch itself.


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

db130 said:


> I think if you put the snowblower in the service position and then remove the lower belly pan, you should see the wiring for the interlock safety switch and then the interlock switch itself.


Yes, I've done that and I didn't see anything except for wires going into a wiring block on the right side of the tractor body. Can you point me to the approximate location of the switch? I'll have another look tomorrow (it's probably right in front of my nose).

I presume the switch could be defective and should be replaced...but concerned about parts availability for a 40 year old machine.
Thanks!


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

Google "ariens 924039" and the first hit is a partstree page - click on it.

go to the Drive train section - zoom in on the top of the parts diagram. The interlock switch and the part number is there.

For what it's worth, I personally would not spend $40 on a new interlock switch... there must be a wire that sends the kill switch that you could disconnect (I don't know which one it would be though, sorry). I removed all that stuff when I installed the GX390 engine on my 924040.


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

db130 said:


> Google "ariens 924039" and the first hit is a partstree page - click on it.
> 
> go to the Drive train section - zoom in on the top of the parts diagram. The interlock switch and the part number is there.
> 
> For what it's worth, I personally would not spend $40 on a new interlock switch... there must be a wire that sends the kill switch that you could disconnect (I don't know which one it would be though, sorry). I removed all that stuff when I installed the GX390 engine on my 924040.


Perfect- just what I needed! Perhaps I can pull the old switch and tinker with it but, as you stated, it's not worth spending $40. As part of my troubleshooting earlier today, I did discover the wire going to the lower left side of the engine housing which can be disconnected to solve this problem. I'll certainly do that if I can't get the old switch working again. i'll post a photo of that wire for future reference if others are experiencing this issue and don't want to buy a new switch.

Thanks so much for your assistance!


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

I verified the interlock switch was defective and elected not to spend another $40 on this old snowblower. Instead, I simply removed the white wire coming from the defective switch to the magneto shutoff wire on the lower left side of the engine shroud. As a result, the auger will rotate when the auger lever is engaged without depressing the interlock lever. This is dangerous as it defeats the entire purpose of the interlock. The other (safer) option would be to leave the white wire attached to the magneto cutoff. However, this would require engaging the auger interlock BEFORE starting the engine and keeping it depressed the entire time the engine is running. Letting go of the interlock lever will always kill the engine.

The first photo shows the belly pan removed. The plastic interlock switch is located just above the area next to the chain. This photo also shows the wiring terminated to a plate on the lower left side of the engine shroud.

The second photo shows the interlock switch.

The third photo shows the white wire disconnected to defeat the interlock switch. This allows the engine to be started without depressing the interlock lever at the same time. Notice there are actually three white wires. The upper wire goes to the magneto to kill then engine when the key is turned off or the auger is engaged without depressing the interlock lever with a properly functioning switch. The black and red wires run to the key switch (black for engine kill, red for ground). I didn't trace back the 3rd white wire which is also attached to the plate.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

@rod330, I'd be willing to bet that you could find an equivalent switch for much cheaper than what Ariens is charging. Clearly, it's made by Cherry.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

Rod330 where you located??

Been awhile since I fooled with one of those, sounds like it's wired wrong or shorted somehow because it's working backwards as it should. I'll check my spare parts box, think I have several of those assembly's.
You said switch was bad.... did you disconnect the switch connector and test for continuity between the two red wires while manually activating the switch ??
Not sure if it is normally open or closed, but it should a change on the meter / tester you are using when you activate the switch.
Possibly the " module " is BAD, causing the issue. 
Here's a pixx of the wiring...


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## rod330 (Oct 9, 2015)

Shaw351, I just updated my profile; I'm in NE Ohio.

You are quite right, it is functioning the reverse of what I'd expect. I have not tested the continuity of the red wires to check for a short so I'll do that this weekend, weather cooperating. Is the "module" item #108 in the diagram? If so, what function does that perform?

I also noticed that I couldn't easily pop the switch out. There appears to be a "U" shaped bracket it snaps into and I noticed the switch tends to move up and down in that bracket...perhaps one of the tabs on the switch has broken off. The button itself does move in and out when I push the switch into it's upward position.....I hope this makes sense. Quite frankly, my sausage fingers were numb from the cold so that made it easier to throw in the towel!

Thanks.....I'd much rather fix this the correct way and not worry possible a safety hazard.


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## Shaw351 (Nov 15, 2016)

NE Ohio ya say........

I lived in Highlandtown Ohio, had a Wellsville phone number, and a Salinesville address... you can understand as you live there. 

If my plans follow through this late summer I'll be driving to Sandusky Ohio after labor day to visit Cedar point for a few days then on to Funny car nationals in Martin Michigan for September 6th race. I can drop off the electrical stuff on my way through..... but you'll probably have this figured out before then. 

I am not really sure what the module is, as I've never taken one apart. But I do have a box in the garage somewhere with several of those complete wiring setups, I will find it and disassemble one of those modules to see exactly what is in it.


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