# Troybilt Model LH195SP



## Frustrated_80 (Feb 28, 2019)

Hi, I sure hope someone can chime in....i've taken this beast apart 6x and cant figure out why it wont stay started.

What I've done so far:
Cleaned Fuel tank and line
New carburetor 
New coil/wire and plug 
Cleaned flywheel
Checked for broken keyway/timing
Cleaned valves and piston
Replaced head gasket
Bypassed on/off switch
Checked for bad primer bulb
Verified gas cap is good
And removed screen from gas tank

Does anyone have any other ideas? The unit is in great condition other than it doesnt want to stay started. 

Thanks for your time and any input you can give!


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## SayItAintSnow (Dec 15, 2017)

Maybe you can explain _"won't stay started"_ in a little more detail.........:icon_scratch:


How does the machine start from a cold start? Does it start right up, or does it need a lot of cranking?



Will it re-start if it is still hot?


When it does run, does it run smooth, and sound like it is running at the right rpm's or does it stumble?



What do you mean by it won't stay started? Does it startup o.k. then stall out after some period of time?


If yes, how long does it typically run before that happens? :confused2:


Answers to the above questions will make it easier for someone to zero in on what the problem might be. :wink2:

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## Frustrated_80 (Feb 28, 2019)

SayItAintSnow said:


> Maybe you can explain _"won't stay started"_ in a little more detail.........:icon_scratch:
> 
> 
> How does the machine start from a cold start? Does it start right up, or does it need a lot of cranking?
> ...



Sorry for the lack of info-I am new to this and wasn't sure what to post. Details I guess are good :wink2:


So it does start right up cold. It will start back up after it stalls with ease. Runs maybe 2 mins tops. No surging - idle RPMs seem normal not to high not to low. Secondary valve on carburetor moves a lot when warm (constantly opening and closing)


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## SayItAintSnow (Dec 15, 2017)

Frustrated_80 said:


> _Sorry for the lack of info-I am new to this and wasn't sure what to post. Details I guess are good :wink2:
> So it does start right up cold. It will start back up after it stalls with ease. Runs maybe 2 mins tops. No surging - idle RPMs seem normal not to high not to low. Secondary valve on carburetor moves a lot when warm (constantly opening and closing)_



No problem man......that's helpful information you provided......:wink2:


O.K....so at first I was thinking that a machine that suddenly cuts out after two minutes of running fine, probably has a heat issue with the ignition module. But then you did say that when it quits, you can start it right back up immediately.

So I don't think it's the spark. 

You said the gas cap is o.k. Did you try to run the machine without the cap, to see if it would keep running?
That's the easiest way to prove you aren't building up a vacuum in the tank. (Preferably not with a full tank, as vibration can cause gas to come out of the top of the tank).
(And BTW, take a good look at that gas after you've drained it out. The fact that it is new gas doesn't preclude the possibility that there is water in it. I just got some in my car a couple of weeks ago that caused me all kinds of grief....).

Compression must be good because it starts right up, and will re-start easily.....
Likely not a timing issue either because it would run like crap all the time, or not at all, if the flywheel has gotten out of sync.


So by process of ellimination, this has to be a fuel issue.

A simple test to be sure nothing is disrupting the supply of fuel, is to pull the fuel line from the carb, and let the gas drain into a container, observing the flow. If you've got good flow, it should never stop until the tank runs just about dry.

Next might be a problem with the carb....but you said it's a new carb.
Did the machine do the exact same thing before you changed the carb, or did you change the carb for another reason?

I'm a little confused about what you are referring to the "secondary valve" moving a lot when you are running.
The only thing you should see moving in the vicinity of the carb is the governor arm, and really only when you are varying the load placed on the machine. If the machine is running at normal speed, and just sitting there (not driving and not spinning the auger/impeller), there really shouldn't be a lot of movement of the governor. If there is, under these circumstances, then it's usually a sign that the carb is not working right, and the governor is doing its dangdest to do its job, and try and keep the machine running at a certain rpm. I'm more inclined to think that, than a mis-adjusted governor because you said when it runs, it runs at a consistent speed.


If you can answer the few questions above, we can drill down further on this, but with the information you've provided so far, I think we're narrowing it down. :wink2:

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## Frustrated_80 (Feb 28, 2019)

SayItAintSnow said:


> No problem man......that's helpful information you provided......:wink2:
> 
> 
> O.K....so at first I was thinking that a machine that suddenly cuts out after two minutes of running fine, probably has a heat issue with the ignition module. But then you did say that when it quits, you can start it right back up immediately.
> ...


Nice clean steady flow of fuel from the line. I replaced the carb because it still was doing the same thing after I cleaned it so I figured it was a $15 part lets try it maybe its just bad. But of course it didn't work still stalled.

Sorry yes it is the governor arm that's moving the secondary butterfly valve while under no load. When it starts to stall out. I even tried spraying starter fluid into the carb to keep it running and wouldn't stay running.

Piston rings and cylinder walls also good no cracks or bent valves

Thanks for your help here I truly appreciate it as I am at a dead end road-its in such great shape id hate to scrap it.


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