# 928 Impeller Housing quality question?



## McRockFish (Oct 10, 2015)

I've used my new 928 once this year. I have a 900 foot crushed gravel driveway. The first storm is usually the worst with picking up small rocks and pebbles until I get a snow pack on it. Also, I have a large entrance and the town plow pushes a bunch of gravel into the bank. 

ISSUE: I live in a rural area and my driveway as I said is crushed gravel. Without question I am going to hear small rocks shooting through quite often. Nothing I can do about it. (Of course I put the skids up a bit.) And, I'm out there for hours sometimes.

QUESTION: Does anybody know if I will quickly destroy the impeller housing on a Honda? Mine is scratched up and down to metal in a lot of areas already.. All it takes is one rock to get stuck for a few rotations. For the past 12 years I have used an Arien and it is scratched up, not rusted at all, and seems fine. Maybe it is the way the impeller sits in the housing on the old Arien, but that old Arien looks about the same as my new 928 does after one storm. Is the metal on this new Honda 928 impeller housing known to be a bit thin, and not appropriate for my type of conditions?

Has anybody seen a 12 year old Honda that somebody has worn out and shredded right through the impeller housing? Is the metal a bit thinner on these new Hondas vs. the old Hondas? I'm not expecting to get 25 years out of the 928 under these conditions, I would just like to get 12 years out of it with no holes in my impeller housing.

There has to be people out there with gravel driveways that hear the rocks shooting through their machines? Has anybody shredded their impeller housing in a matter of 5-10 years? 

This is NOT a complaint or negative review, simply a question about durability and using the machine with this thickness impeller housing in my particular conditions.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

McRockFish said:


> I've used my new 928 once this year. I have a 900 foot crushed gravel driveway. The first storm is usually the worst with picking up small rocks and pebbles until I get a snow pack on it. Also, I have a large entrance and the town plow pushes a bunch of gravel into the bank.
> 
> ISSUE: I live in a rural area and my driveway as I said is crushed gravel. Without question I am going to hear small rocks shooting through quite often. Nothing I can do about it. (Of course I put the skids up a bit.) And, I'm out there for hours sometimes.
> 
> ...


I am not sure if the new HSS line up has the same metal thickness as the former HS models but I think it does.
I happened to buy an HS828 on which the housing got destroyed twice by picking up gravel (it probably took more than 12 years though).

If I was you and if I knew that I will be constantly picking up gravel, I would install a liner inside the impeller housing either out of HDPE (they sell self adhesive flat sheats that would take the shape of the impeller housing), or out stainless steel. You can secure the lining (just as extra protection) with countersunk screws on the inside and lock nuts on the outside. 

This upgrade will also help you prevent cloggs and perhaps deal better with slushy snow (besides protecting the auger housing).

Check this thread about it 
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/honda-snowblowers/73945-chute-liner.html

If I was doing it, I'd go with an 1/8" HDPE sheet instead of a 1/32" as long as you have clearance in between the auger housing and the impeller blades.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

If you go with the self sticker based lining, IMO, run a decent bead of pro grade urethane sealant on the edges. The last thing you would want is a small bubble/exposed section of metal/liner - where salt/snow can possibly accumulate and it doesn't even rinse clean on the post season cleaning.

It it was me, I would strongly consider something like 30mil thick clearbra. 
The thermal expansion with that and metal should work fine, and if installed properly, the edge seal should be sufficient enough to warrant not needing to lay down a ~bead of urethane~ as a secondary measure for good edge sealing.


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## McRockFish (Oct 10, 2015)

Thank you guys. 

I really don't care what my machine looks like, as long as it works and will last. But, from the pictures I am posting you can see what is happening... I would prefer to do something myself rather than pull out the augers and impeller... and bring my brand new machine to a welder.... Ugh. My 12 year old Ariens is still fine but for some reason this Honda just looks like it isn't going to handle it... (I just went out and ran my old Ariens and looked at the steel thickness. It is thicker. I can post a pic of how that Ariens looks after 12 years of use on this driveway.)

Below, my driveway - a few days ago it snowed that 5 inches of heavy icy snow but the last couple days in the low 40's with sunshine. My driveway loops at the bottom by my house and barn, and then continues out to the road a lot further winding through the woods.









Below a close up of the inside of the impeller housing. Again, after 3 hours of use.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

McRockFish said:


> Thank you guys. I have never posted a picture here but will try in a 10 minutes or so of how my impeller housing looks after several hours of use. I really don't care what my machine looks like, as long as it works and will last. But, from the pictures I will post you will probably agree that if I am scratching the existing steel impeller housing as aggressively as I already have, I will need more steel here. I hope not! I would prefer to do something myself rather than pull out the augers and impeller... and bring my brand new machine to a welder.... Ugh. My 12 year old Ariens is still fine but for some reason this Honda just looks like it isn't going to handle it... Pics on the way.


Augers and impeller are relatively easy to remove on a newer honda snowblower.
To load pictures if you are using a computer, go to "advanced" (if you are "quoting" it will automatically bring you there), once there browse down to manage attachments, a new window will show up and it lets you load up to 10 pictures.


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## McRockFish (Oct 10, 2015)

Based on my pictures above will a non-steel inside liner work? I would much prefer to slide something self adhesive in there like mentioned above by a couple guys. Even if every couple years I have to do it again after I shred that liner, I just don't want to get involved with welding... and bolting...

Can you please post a link to any material you recommend. I would prefer to buy this first if it is something I can install without removing the augers and impeller...

thanks again. check out my pics.


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## SND (Nov 5, 2015)

I'm concerned about the impeller housing thickness and material choice as well.
I've put about 6-7hrs on it so far, probably a few hundred pounds of rocks too.... and its easy to tell its shaving metal off. If I designed that it would have been armor plate about 3x that thickness. I'll see if that's what I end up putting in it or if I just go the plastic route when I take it apart after winter. 

I can't take a good measurement of it but looks to be about 15 or 16 gauge. I haven't yet taken a closer look at other brands to see how their housing thickness compares.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

that is the norm. given your type of drive.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

McRockFish said:


> Based on my pictures above will a non-steel inside liner work? I would much prefer to slide something self adhesive in there like mentioned above by a couple guys. Even if every couple years I have to do it again after I shred that liner, I just don't want to get involved with welding... and bolting...
> 
> Can you please post a link to any material you recommend. I would prefer to buy this first if it is something I can install without removing the augers and impeller...
> 
> thanks again. check out my pics.


 those plastic liners will get chewed up real fast. you would almost be better off with a plow. JMO.


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## McRockFish (Oct 10, 2015)

SND said:


> I'm concerned about the impeller housing thickness and material choice as well.
> I've put about 6-7hrs on it so far, probably a few hundred pounds of rocks too.... and its easy to tell its shaving metal off. If I designed that it would have been armor plate about 3x that thickness. I'll see if that's what I end up putting in it or if I just go the plastic route when I take it apart after winter.
> 
> I can't take a good measurement of it but looks to be about 15 or 16 gauge. I haven't yet taken a closer look at other brands to see how their housing thickness compares.


Thank you. Please let me know what you decide to do. I knew others must be concerned about this. The metal does seem thin. It is thinner than my old Ariens that I used for 12 years and that machine looks like the steel could handle another 12.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Apologies about the "HDPE" material I suggested.
I actually meant UHMW (which is supposed to have very high abrassion resistance). I read somewhere that this material is used as plow cutting edge and it can last about 4-5 times longer that steel. It should withsatand the gravel "damage" with no issues.

Here is a link to that material.

.125" x 12.00" per Foot Slick Strip UHMW PS Adhesive Tape










I bought some for a project that I have going on, but have not used it yet. 
If it is cut to ~4" wide, it should take the shape of the auger housing nicely without needing to heat it.

It is sold by ft and you need to check the total circunference to make sure you get enough. It is expensive, but I think it will be well worth it over time.

I'd clean, prime and paint the impeller housing before installing the liner otherwise it will rust/rot thru over time if the liner is just glued above the exposed bare metal.


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## jrom (Jan 10, 2014)

Not sure if its accurate or not, but I used a HF digital caliper on the leading (non-lipped) edge of both auger housings on my 828 and 1332 and they both came out consistently at 1.78mm or .070" which is what...13 gauge? That is with paint, 15-16 unpainted steel? Is this even close to an acceptable way of measuring?

Just by looking, the 1332 seems thinner.

After 24 years with not re-graveling, my drive is a mix of dirt and gravel, but I shoot a lot of gravel out during the Winter. On my 828, the auger and impeller housing and the lower chute is dimpled and pocked marked pretty thoroughly. Still ticking though. No break throughs, no rust. I'll post some photos next week as i'm on the road.

I'm definitely going to line my 1332 sometime this year. Beginning and end of season are the worst times for gravel pickup.


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## SND (Nov 5, 2015)

I'll post pics once I get mine modified.

For the price and name on these blowers, I expect them to last 30yrs with minimal maintenance. 
If the Sears craftsman from 30yrs ago are still running today, like a friend's is, no reason I shouldn't expect at least the same today for something that cost 4x as much. There is no reason to not make these things bullet proof, mostly in that area which will see the most wear/beating.


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## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

i did order 4 feet of that stuff... question as to what to do to avoid water, dirt, or salt to get under it overtime and cause more damage.... It is cold here now and my garage is not heated... if i just wash and rinse the housing, then dry it... will the glue on that plastic sheet be ennough to glue it tight ? Will i need to wait until next summer to install it you think ?
I do have scratch that shows the metal under the paint... Would touch up paint from Honda be ok or do i need to sand everything, prime then paint with metal paint ? 
Arghh too bad i didnt have that plastic sheet before the first use this winter... the blower was new, it would have been a lot simplier.


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## pdd (Jul 10, 2015)

Would a snowblower impeller kit help? I'm gonna install one on my hss928atd soon


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

I believe impeller housing damage compounds as the damage occurs. The stretching and bulging allows larger and larger rocks to get trapped between the impeller edge and the housing and rolls even more rocks into that expanding bulge. There is some photos of my repair in this thread.
Link to older thread on gravel damage.
Preventive maintenance would be preferred. Keeping the impeller to housing gap small to begin with will have to help with more than just throwing performance.


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## SB83 (Dec 15, 2015)

There is room for 1/8" thickness UHMW plastic in the 928 housing but as mentioned it would require mechanical fastening. You do have space to install fasteners outside of the impeller path though, so no need to countersink any screws at least. I'll do this if the 1/32" material doesn't hold up but you definitely have a much harsher environment than I do.


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## grabber (Nov 28, 2015)

pdd said:


> Would a snowblower impeller kit help? I'm gonna install one on my hss928atd soon


that plastic is expensive alright.... just bought 4 feet.


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## Rocktaco (Sep 24, 2013)

hsblowersfan said:


> Apologies about the "HDPE" material I suggested.
> I actually meant UHMW (which is supposed to have very high abrassion resistance). I read somewhere that this material is used as plow cutting edge and it can last about 4-5 times longer that steel. It should withsatand the gravel "damage" with no issues.
> 
> Here is a link to that material.
> ...


$22 A FOOT !?! Thanks crazy:smiley-confused009:


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

Rocktaco said:


> $22 A FOOT !?! Thanks crazy:smiley-confused009:


Are you considering the shipping? :icon-hgtg:

I think that I stated on my post that it is expensive.
For me it would not be too bad as I will be cutting it in 4" strips and using it on 3 different auger housings. (1/3 of the cost per unit).


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

OT, but does anyone know how Yammy - in detail, has the lining attached to the impeller.
I am going to assume via ~best practices~, aka, not sticker due to thermal co-efficients. I would be curious to see.


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## jeffNB (Nov 5, 2015)

mobiledynamics said:


> OT, but does anyone know how Yammy - in detail, has the lining attached to the impeller.
> I am going to assume via ~best practices~, aka, not sticker due to thermal co-efficients. I would be curious to see.


Seems to me that the impeller liner has a threaded stud(s) cast into it. It is secured on the outside of the impeller housing with a nut over the plastic stud.


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## mobiledynamics (Nov 21, 2014)

LOl. Jeff. i did not really look at the posted pics on that HS posted. I actually just looked closely at it..

You are right. Who knows. Maybe they even have a welded nut post on that impeller area and it's meant to be screwed in/out easy peasy with no wearing....

For those gent's planning on lining, please pay attention to details on the seam/edges and GOOD sealing of these areas. The last thing you want is salt corrosion that you don't see....


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## fake_usa (Oct 24, 2014)

McRockFish said:


> Below a close up of the inside of the impeller housing. Again, after 3 hours of use.


 
Only 3 hours! Wow that looks horrible! You better lower those skids, way too many stones going in there.


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