# JD 826 service?



## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

Hello all,

I found this forum while looking for info on a newly acquired JD 826 S/N M00826X575949. From what I can tell, it was made around '88 or so? It is electric start and runs very well, but I think I made need to replace a bearing on the auger driveshaft. I got this with a bunch of tools and other implements that I bought with a cabin, and I am just finding out how old it is. Does anyone still service these? 

Thanks,

John in Colorado Springs


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

Your machine was made by John Deere and is a good machine, parts are hard to find and expensive. In 1991 John Deere sub manufacturing to Murray and Ariens. The Ariens are good, the Murray are horrible.


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

Thanks--I was afraid of that! Thanks for the quick reply.

When I lived in Wisconsin, there were plenty of really old JD tractors that the old timers were able to find parts for to restore them, so I am not giving up.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to SBF John. Here are links to the operators and service manual for your machine in case you want to do your own repairs.

Operators manual-
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3jh4tugqqpyvouh/John Deere 826 Snowblower Manual.pdf

Service manual-
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9k1uzy1s5s61ma2/526-726-732-826-832-1032-TM1234-01740.pdf


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

Thanks, Grunt, this is great! I used to do my own wrenching on motorcycles, so this will be a big help.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

I'm familiar with the 826 because I have a 1032, both heavy duty and similar. The metal is thicker than other blowers, has a cast iron gear box, metal gear driven chute, metal chute that is full open and not restricted by reducing it. Some suggestions, do a complete servicing on it, grease augers, check you have shear pins - 5/16" are mine, tighten all the bolts. I got mine last February for $50 and needed a carb rebuild plus a lot of normal work to bring it up to snuff. If you want to improve that machine, this what I plan to do to mine. The handlebars need to be reinforced in the middle, behind the rectangular piece or just below it, they are very weak compared to the heavy machine it is. It does not throw snow very far so I plan to add a rubber impeller kit, also plan to extend the chute length by cutting it and welding a piece in the middle. I'm going to put a cable attached to the chute and a handle on the dashboard so I can adjust the chute easily. I want to put rollers on the front replacing the skid shoes. I don't like that you engage and disengage the auger with a dashboard handle.


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

It sure seems well made to me from a materials standpoint. Those mods you are planning sound good--I may have to copy some of them.


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## GoBlowSnow (Sep 4, 2015)

I'm in south Denver/Highlands Ranch and have 2 826s that I work on for my church and have owned 2 826s and a 1032 (JD built) what all do you suspect is wrong with yours?


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

I was plowing some hard packed snow (not too smart on my part), and I started to see some smoke coming from what I think is a bearing on the auger. I just got an email from Potestio Brothers Equipment (local JD dealer) this morning in response to my inquiry, and they are willing to take a look at it and think they can fix it. Going to go pick it up from the cabin this weekend and take it by to see what they can do with it. My dad never bought any landscaping equipment new--he'd pick up a beater lawnmower or edger and fix them up and keep them running. Like this snowblower, things were built to last back then, not like the disposable junk nowadays.


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## JLawrence08648 (Jan 15, 2017)

If the bearing is a side bearing it is definitely user replaceable and easy. If it's the impeller bearing, you need to be knowledgeable, brave, daring, stupid, and have the right tools.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I had an 826 I completely restored. They are in fact a well made heavy duty machine. I wouldn't bother taking to a dealer especially at the rates they charge for an hour of "looking." They are very easy to work on. The bucket separates from the tractor with the two big bolts just outside the belt cover. Pull the belt cover little bolts and remove it, roll the auger drive belt off the engine sheave. Use a workmate or bench to be behind the handlebars. Remove the two big bolts (can't remember if they were 9/16 or 5/8). As you remove the second one, you want to try and hold the handlebars and the bucket edge together. Pull the bolt and let the machine crack in half, lowering the handles to a support like I mentioned. You will have to lift the brake bracket off the idler assembly as you do that. Black arm with a rubber "wedge" that rides in the top of the auger pulley. The bottom of the auger bucket has slots that correspond to a rod in the tractor assembly and it just lifts right out. Once apart,just grab the auger drive pulley and see if it slops around up down, left right. There are 2 set screws behind the pulley on the hub that need to come out. Tip the bucket on it's nose and spray that hub center with PB blaster or a squirt of ATF and then go remove the side bucket bolts for the auger shaft and the keepers. Leave it alone for a day:yahoo: Then come back and see if you can get the pulley free and don't lose the key. Once that's off you will be able to see the little bracket/housing that SHOULD contain a bushing. If you do get that far without much problem removing the pulley, the whole auger/fan/impeller assembly pulls right out (maybe with a friend as it's very heavy, not a grab with one hand and pick up). I forget the size of the impeller stub in the auger drive pulley, but I know i got the bushing at the hardware store and not from the JD stealer, er dealer. Side replacements crossed to a Toro bushing that was also cheaper. I KNow the side auger bushings were 1" ID. I "think" the impeller one was 7/8".


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Found my old notes on the 826 refurb. Memory apparently is failing me. All three bushings (impeller, and 2 side auger) are indeed 1" ID. I have written down JD part #E4348E and notes that Toro cross reference is Toro part #256-237. My JD dealer wanted $18 ea. and the Toro dealer a mile away had the same dimension bushing in a Toro part bag for $4.99ea.:yahoo: I did get the impeller one at my local Ace from the specialty boxes, but they only had one, so had to search for the others. Hopefully it's just the bushings you need as the housings are like $40 ea. from JD:frown: You can knock the old bushings out with a similar diameter socket over a vise or drain pipe piece. Knock the new in with a block of wood on a sturdy bench.
Post up some pics along the way.


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

Sounds great and will do!


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

Well, I took the sage advice of the forum members who responded, and I am really glad I did! Opened up the machine to look at the drive belts and pulleys and found a small rock wedged in the auger drive pulley--took it out, and the auger and impeller worked fine. Then I took off the bottom plate and a broken spring fell out--it was the clutch control rod spring. Any ideas where to get one? Also, any ideas where I could get a key for the electric start? It fell out when it was in the "on" position, so no problems starting it, but would like to have one if they are available somewhere. Reverse doesn't work, but likely a control rod adjustment? I can live with no reverse.


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

jmw7777 said:


> Reverse doesn't work, but likely a control rod adjustment? I can live with no reverse.


Why not at least try to adjust the rod instead of struggling the rest of your life with no reverse, instead of a 5 minute project ?


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

Will do!


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## 524SWE (Jan 20, 2017)

try this

John Deere Parts Online from Green Farm Parts: Free Shipping

you'll see your machine near bottom of page, click on "select assembly"


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

Thanks, 524SWE, found everything I needed!


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## jmw7777 (Feb 14, 2017)

So I just got a bag of all the parts I ordered from Green Farm Parts, and it is a nice day, so thought I would work on the JD. First thing I try to install, I can't figure out, unless I am missing a part. I have a clutch lever return spring (M75239) to install. Been through the owner's and tech manuals as well as all the parts diagrams, but no luck figuring it out. I find the notch in the traction wheel pivot rod for the spring, but can't figure out where the other end connects. Shop manual shows it inserting near the axle, but I don't see place to hook it?


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