# Honda 928 Engine Switch wiring



## BGHonda2017! (Dec 10, 2017)

Hello. I have a Honda 928 snowblower. There are two wires coming from the Engine Switch. One is grounded to the engine block. In my case, this wire is intact. Unfortunately, mice chewed through the other wire. The result of this is that the machine will run, but will not shut off with the switch. Is there a wiring diagram, or could someone tell me where to connect the severed wire?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

you can ground out the running machine by inserting a pick into the slot of the wire coming out of the block and touching metal on machine. faster than shutting off fuel.

do you have a picture you can post that shows the mouse damage? that may help. it may be a simple fix.


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## pjw73nh (Jan 29, 2015)

I am in the same boat as BGHonda2017. I too suspect mouse damage. My HS 928 runs great but wont' shut off. There is a sheathing of at least two wires that runs from the key switch to: One runs to a bullet connecter that is easy to access. I've ohmed it out and measured resistance. From the key switch, it is open to ground. The other side that disappears into the engine area is a short to ground. The second wire runs behind a mounting bracket/ ground plate. I can't see where EITHER of these wires go. See attached pics. Does anyone have a wiring diagram? Or the best way to disassemble the blower to find out where these wires go? Or do I just start at the outside and work my way inside?

BGHonda2017. Where was your mouse damage? How did you get to it?

Thanks.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

pjw73nh said:


> I am in the same boat as BGHonda2017. I too suspect mouse damage. My HS 928 runs great but wont' shut off. There is a sheathing of at least two wires that runs from the key switch to: One runs to a bullet connecter that is easy to access. I've ohmed it out and measured resistance. From the key switch, it is open to ground. The other side that disappears into the engine area is a short to ground. The second wire runs behind a mounting bracket/ ground plate. I can't see where EITHER of these wires go. See attached pics. Does anyone have a wiring diagram? Or the best way to disassemble the blower to find out where these wires go? Or do I just start at the outside and work my way inside?
> 
> BGHonda2017. Where was your mouse damage? How did you get to it?
> 
> ...


you're a funny guy


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

Mouse chewed through the ignition ground wire coming off of the coil. That is a common problem under the blower housing.
Remove the blower housing and you should see the wire and follow it to see where it should attach to a terminal on the ignition coil that may be chewed through, that will give you an "Open" to ground.
Check your wire all the way up to the key switch for any breaks and check the wire and ground area where the wire grounds to the engine. Take the bolt off and clean the mounting area of any rust and corrosion, then re-attach to make sure you have a good ground.
Take your Ohm-meter and check for continuity of the wire from your ignition coil up to your key switch, then check the other wire from the key switch to its grounding location for any "Opens" to find a broken wire location that will need repair.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

why do people have to reopen long dead threads asking people who made one post and left for answers
bghonda2017 hasn't been seen since Dec 10 2017 he Joined Dec 10, 2017 was Last seen Dec 10, 2017


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

captchas said:


> why do people have to reopen long dead threads


I think it's happening because this new forum format "recommends" ancient threads at the bottom of each thread. So someone is researching and is presented with these old threads by the forum engine. Perhaps a setting needs to be adjusted by the techs to not recommend threads that have not been updated recently?


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## pjw73nh (Jan 29, 2015)

captchas said:


> why do people have to reopen long dead threads asking people who made one post and left for answers
> bghonda2017 hasn't been seen since Dec 10 2017 he Joined Dec 10, 2017 was Last seen Dec 10, 2017


captchas. I belong to many forums (fora?). I can't tell you how many times I have been chewed out for posting a new topic/thread only to get a nasty response to the effect of "Do you know how to use the search function? Try using it sometime". I also figured a new reply would boost it to the top for a short time, further avoiding duplication. 

So that is what I do. I search FIRST. THEN if I find nothing relevant to my issue, I'll post. If I DO find something relevant to my issue, then yes, I reply to it so as to not incur the wrath of "search police". 

As a moderator, I'll ask you. What would've been the correct protocol regarding my post?


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## pjw73nh (Jan 29, 2015)

ST110A, By blower housing, are you referring to the pull starter and air/fan shroud? I traced the spark plug wire back today and remove the air intake and plate, but still couldn't see anything. From what little I could see it DOES look like I have to get in behind the pull starter/ air shroud area. Is that correct? Remove pull start, then the bolts for the shroud? Thanks for the reply. .


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

pjw73nh said:


> ST110A, By blower housing, are you referring to the pull starter and air/fan shroud? I traced the spark plug wire back today and remove the air intake and plate, but still couldn't see anything. From what little I could see it DOES look like I have to get in behind the pull starter/ air shroud area. Is that correct? Remove pull start, then the bolts for the shroud? Thanks for the reply. .


i believe that is what he meant. easy to remove shroud. only 5 small bolts. just be sure you unwrap fuel line from it. Then you can see everything very clearly.

I would still check ground wire from switch first. looking at that second picture , there is a lot of rust. would remove that wire and clean that connection real well and see if that will kill engine when switched off.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

every site is different, what you state i well know is common in most automotive/pickup truck sites where i was a mod also . 
here most members don't like reopening as most of the questions are directly asked to people who walked away a long time back and never came back, many times after a very few posts

yes you will have to remove the starter blower housing to see the coil fully, on it you will see the plug wire and a push on terminal for the stop/ground shorting wire,


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## pjw73nh (Jan 29, 2015)

Orange, Good idea. I'll clean that connection next. Though I'm pretty sure it's a rodental issue. Lots of mouse evidence when I took off the air intake plate. I blew it out with compressed air while I had it off. 

captchas. Thanks for the clarification and the blower housing info. .


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

pjw73nh said:


> Orange, Good idea. I'll clean that connection next. Though I'm pretty sure it's a rodental issue. Lots of mouse evidence when I took off the air intake plate. I blew it out with compressed air while I had it off.
> 
> captchas. Thanks for the clarification and the blower housing info. .


maybe thats why it wont shut down.....rodental powered


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

pjw73nh said:


> ST110A, By blower housing, are you referring to the pull starter and air/fan shroud? I traced the spark plug wire back today and remove the air intake and plate, but still couldn't see anything. From what little I could see it DOES look like I have to get in behind the pull starter/ air shroud area. Is that correct? Remove pull start, then the bolts for the shroud? Thanks for the reply. .


Yes the fan shroud. We all call them by different names, but that is it. 
Hopefully that will help you find the problem so you can get it repaired properly.


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## pjw73nh (Jan 29, 2015)

UPDATE (and question). I isolated the key switch and tested for continuity. To my surprise, the key switch is "open" regardless of position. AHA !!!! I found my issue... Not so fast Skippy.... I removed the key switch, sprayed some electronic tuner and contact cleaner in it and worked it back and forth several times. Now I have continuity in the OFF position and open in the RUN position. Just as it should be. I started the blower up and grounded the wire from the coil. No difference. 

I removed the pull start and flywheel shroud and found the chewed wire. They chewed through the heat shield of the wire in two places, and all the way through the wire in one place. It appears the wire is held down with a couple of "pinch" castings under the fuel tank. I was able to get the remnants out of these casting pinches, but I don't think I can get the wire back in them without removing (at least) the fuel tank. I'm not really up for that.

Unless the brain trust here in the forum has any other suggestions, I was just going to run a new wire in the same area and secure it with zip ties the best I can. That said, I would like to cover the new wire with some sort of protective heat shield like the old one was. It runs very close to, if not touching the engine block. See attached pic. 

Does anyone know where I could get some of this type of small wire heat shield? It appears to be about 4MM OD x 3.5MM ID.

Thanks.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

pjw73nh said:


> Does anyone know where I could get some of this type of small wire heat shield? It appears to be about 4MM OD x 3.5MM ID.


Auto parts places should have it, and perhaps hardware stores.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/mr--gasket-4367/performance-16477/safety-equipment-16821/heat-shield-sleeving-19073/594d1fd8001e/mr-gasket-fuel-hose-sleeving/6326k/4514331/2004/bmw/325xi?pos=14


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

removing the fuel tank is fairly easy. my motto is do it right or do it twice.....or thrice.


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## pjw73nh (Jan 29, 2015)

orangputeh said:


> removing the fuel tank is fairly easy. my motto is do it right or do it twice.....or thrice.


Orange, is the tank as simple as disconnecting and plugging the fuel line and removing the the 3 or 4 bolts to the tank? Any other tips or gotchas I have to worry about with the tank removal? 

Tnx


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

pjw73nh said:


> Orange, is the tank as simple as disconnecting and plugging the fuel line and removing the the 3 or 4 bolts to the tank? Any other tips or gotchas I have to worry about with the tank removal?
> 
> Tnx


yes.


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## pjw73nh (Jan 29, 2015)

So I found some heat resistant sheathing from an old high power stadium light bulb socket. Between that, the existing sheathing and a some heat shrink, I've got it pretty much wired up.

Orange, I got the tank of pretty easily as you said. The hardest part was getting the spring hose clamp off the fuel line at the fuel bowl. When I got the fuel line off I bumped something and this little plastic cap came off of somewhere. I've looked all over and can't seem to find where it came from. I don't want to put it back together until I find out where it is supposed to go. It's about the diameter of a US nickel.

Anyone?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

pjw73nh said:


> So I found some heat resistant sheathing from an old high power stadium light bulb socket. Between that, the existing sheathing and a some heat shrink, I've got it pretty much wired up.
> 
> Orange, I got the tank of pretty easily as you said. The hardest part was getting the spring hose clamp off the fuel line at the fuel bowl. When I got the fuel line off I bumped something and this little plastic cap came off of somewhere. I've looked all over and can't seem to find where it came from. I don't want to put it back together until I find out where it is supposed to go. It's about the diameter of a US nickel.
> 
> ...


i believe that cap came off the carburetor. it should snap right back on. ( top )


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## pjw73nh (Jan 29, 2015)

Project finished. As it turned out (quite coincidentally) I had TWO issues, 1. The key switch was bad. 2. The coil grounding wire was chewed through by rodentals. Thanks to all in the forum for all the help.


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## 140278 (Aug 27, 2020)

rodent damage from nesting under the engine covers was the most common repair we did when i was a partner in the OPE shop . a good 6 out of 10 non starting or seized from over heating snow blowers had nests in the winter, changed to mowers and other yard tools in the summer
very happy the read you got to the bingo it's fixed point.


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