# 924108 traction drive belt spring?



## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Hi All,

I finally started working on the Ariens and found the spring that broke and someone modified to barely work.

The issue is I'm not sure where it should actually go? Right now they extended it with a piece of wire and have it wrapped around the pulley. See attached pictures.

I'm assuming this setup is probably common to many machines and not just this one so I'm hoping someone could share some info and or pictures?


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

I looked at partsradar and entered your model number. if I'm looking at the correct one, the part number you need is 08309400. This is a ST824, correct?

As far as the correct placement of the spring, I cannot help you there, and the parts diagram did not offer any help either. I would think someone on here will be able to help you with that, otherwise a trip to your local dealer would be a good plan "B".


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

liftoff1967 said:


> I looked at partsradar and entered your model number. if I'm looking at the correct one, the part number you need is 08309400. This is a ST824, correct?
> 
> As far as the correct placement of the spring, I cannot help you there, and the parts diagram did not offer any help either. I would think someone on here will be able to help you with that, otherwise a trip to your local dealer would be a good plan "B".



It's an ST824SLE.
As far as I can tell, it's part 1773892. The one for the pulley closest to the engine. That's the other thing I was second guessing my self on.


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

ChrisJ said:


> It's an ST824SLE.
> As far as I can tell, it's part 1773892. The one for the pulley closest to the engine. That's the other thing I was second guessing my self on.


When doing a google search for ariens part number 1773892, it also cross ref to the number I gave, 08309400

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Extension-Spring/08309400/1773892


So we are on the same page, might be worth while to have both part numbers if you go to a dealer. 

Now just to figure out the correct placement.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

The spring is supposed to be anchored on the other side, at least on my 924038 with same idler assemblies. It hooks in a hole on the drive idler bracket and then to the right (as you would be in operator position) tractor body.
They probably fudged it because it takes a bit of contortion to get the spring onto the bracket because the bracket rides behind the traction drive pulley. If you unhook that contraption, take a flashlight and look behind the drive pulley and manipulate the drive idler, you'll see what I'm talking about. I had the drive system out on mine so it was easy, but it's possible with long needle nose or similar to get in from the under side. I'll try to snap a couple pics when I can locate my camera.


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## liftoff1967 (Jan 15, 2014)

Chris. I got to thinking about this, but I cannot research as well as I want to, due to my schedule, but I have a theory. 

I will ref right and left from the operator position.

The spring is now on the left side, correct?

When looking at parts radar:










they show the spring (part number 34, NOT #37) to the right side. My hunch is the *right side of the spring* ties off to the right side of the frame, or housing. The *left side of the spring* ties off to part number 29 (Idler arm), maybe the bottom hole (idler arm is triangle looking with 3 holes, and I'm thinking the bottom most hole)

I'm guessing the way the spring is now, it is hooking up to the top part of the idler arm, and it is not providing enough tension due to the axis design or pivot point. doing as the detail show, would provide more pivot giving more tension.

I hope your able to follow what I'm trying to say.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Hi Jtclays, liftoff1967

I think you are both 100% correct.
I got this from a friend who wasn't very good at fixing things so now I'm trying to make it right so I can use it.

Is it possible to "easily" remove the drive pulley to install this? I have fat sausage fingers and even though I can do SMT soldering in electronics my fingers can only fit in certain places.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Chris, I kinda misspoke as the axle basically blocks your ability to get at it from under. I was going from memory, but i had all the stuff removed. Easiest way to do this is remove the drive pulley. I say easiest if you have an air impact gun. The nut on the pulley is a big lock nut (15/16"). If you do use an impact, be careful when you remove the pulley as there is a tiny key in the shaft behind it that may shake loose (mine did) and it's a bugger to put back in. If you split the auger from the tractor and look behind the pulley, you may see some room to get it on depending on what long tipped pliers you have access to. The anchor point on the tractor is the bigger hole above the axle triangle support bracket.
I think that is the correct spring anyway, shorty side goes to the idler bracket and the long end goes to the tractor body, so you got that going for ya'
Once hooked up liftoff is correct, there is quite a bit of tension on that idler, which makes it a pain to reassemble the pulley, I think I removed the idler wheel and held the arm back with wire to the axle.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

jtclays said:


> Chris, I kinda misspoke as the axle basically blocks your ability to get at it from under. I was going from memory, but i had all the stuff removed. Easiest way to do this is remove the drive pulley. I say easiest if you have an air impact gun. The nut on the pulley is a big lock nut (15/16"). If you do use an impact, be careful when you remove the pulley as there is a tiny key in the shaft behind it that may shake loose (mine did) and it's a bugger to put back in. If you split the auger from the tractor and look behind the pulley, you may see some room to get it on depending on what long tipped pliers you have access to. The anchor point on the tractor is the bigger hole above the axle triangle support bracket.



So the pulley locks onto the shaft via a key, meaning it's not pressed on?
I don't have an impact unfortunately, and don't think I even have a 15/16 socket but I do have a large wrench I use for radiator valves that may work but it only engages two sides. Might be ok depending on just how tight that nut is.

Either that or I'll need to buy some tools, which is always good in my book but not the wife's.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

The key is actually in the drive platter shaft assembly, but very close to the edge where the pulley snugs up. If all goes well, you may only see the top of it. I went in and took all that apart and replaced the bearings. I did use an air gun and it was enough to shake the key loose, but my bearings were a little worn, so there may have been some wobble there to start with. More of just beware thing


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Ah ok.

So in theory, if I can stop the shaft from spinning using the friction disc I should be able to spin that nut off by hand and pull the pulley right off without much issue?


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Yes. Some people try to wedge the platter from the back on the fins with a screw driver or similar. It's basically a big nyloc nut so it's snug the whole thread length. I guess you could try taped vise grips on the platter. Just be cautious, 'spensive part and don't know if they make them anymore
Edit note: I looked at your parts list and mine (924038) and yours shows up as the drive pulley being keyed and the diagram shows the keyway into the threads (on mine the part number is different and the key is shown back behind the threads), so you may be able to simply secure the pulley and go at the nut.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

Interesting.

What secures the platter, just the direction of the threads I guess?

This is the nut I found for mine.
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Flange-Nut/06530400/1762957


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Sorry Chris, missed your reply for little. Yes, the platter/plate is left hand threaded onto the drive spindle.


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## ChrisJ (Nov 27, 2014)

So, I tore the machine apart today and replaced the idler pulley spring.

I took some pictures hoping they might help someone else down the road as this method seemed to work fairly easy.

Of course be sure to pull the spark plug wire, just to be safe.


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