# New toro 8 24 powershift owner 1995 powershift question



## oldgeezer (Feb 3, 2015)

2 questions:
-First week owning, in new england, 3 ft of snow on ground, previous snowblower crapped out. 0 new ones out there, thus went with 8 24 powershift toro

1- was told if to disconnect the posi to make it much easier to push(true?)
2- is there any reason to not leave it in powershift mode???

All feedback appreciated


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

Welcome to the *Toro* Lair of SBF oldgeezer!!!

I have a non-PS 824...so can't really help with your question...just welcoming you in 

P.S. we like pictures


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

1). I leave my differential engaged now that I have an engaged it makes it easier to turn and it doesn't matter when you push it when it's off because you flip the transmission into neutral.

2) Powershift mode (axel rearward) is great for heavy snow or end of driveway but for light stuff up to about 8 inches the machine is easier to handle with the axel forward in non-powershift mode. Also much easier to maneuver in the garage etc. I only use powershift mode when I'm going through something with using it. Like today !! 

Powershift93 has more experience... He may also chime in with ideas on this


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the forum oldgeezer. I don't have a powershift to comment on, but I do have a link to the service manual in case you ever need repairs.
Tosnowps[1] Copy


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## oldgeezer (Feb 3, 2015)

Pathfinder13 said:


> 1). I leave my differential engaged now that I have an engaged it makes it easier to turn and it doesn't matter when you push it when it's off because you flip the transmission into neutral.
> 
> 2) Powershift mode (axel rearward) is great for heavy snow or end of driveway but for light stuff up to about 8 inches the machine is easier to handle with the axel forward in non-powershift mode. Also much easier to maneuver in the garage etc. I only use powershift mode when I'm going through something with using it. Like today !!
> 
> Powershift93 has more experience... He may also chime in with ideas on this


Thank u, that said, is there a way to have the 'posi' disengaged so that one wheel is operating, as I've read it's MUCH easier to maneuver... ???


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

oldgeezer said:


> Thank u, that said, is there a way to have the 'posi' disengaged so that one wheel is operating, as I've read it's MUCH easier to maneuver... ???



We may be on different pages here... I should not have assumed  that you typing "posi" meant that it has the differential kit, but I did that and sorry for that.

If you have no differential kit (transaxle) and yours is a straight axle you only have two options, locked or unlocked at the wheel pins on each side at the axle. There are two holes, an out hole and inner hole on each side of the machine/axle. You pin the inner axle hole through both the wheel hub and axle. One side for easy turning (either side) and the opposite side pinned through axle only in outbound hole,and two sides through both for straight ahead pull from both wheels. 

That said, it's a beast to manuever in Powershift mode (axle rearward) when both are pinned and it does not track straight if one is pinned in this mode. There is an "optional transaxle" kit that replaces the main axle and allows turning with both wheels pinned ( that's what I had assumed you had and were talking about) and you can look on Ebay they are floating around and can be had. It's agreat upgrade, I have mine engaged all the time. 

Hope that clarifies things for ya' - I recommend the transaxle.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

if there is no DIFFY KIT in it. then it is full bore posi traction. meaning you have a straight axle in there. you can put a DIFFY KIT in for turning. let me know if you have any more questions on that 1. otherwise ALOHA from the frozen TUNDRA.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

hello oldgeezer, welcome to *SBF* and congrats on being one of the few, the proud *POWERSHIFT *owners


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## oldgeezer (Feb 3, 2015)

So far less than one week of "drive time", one shot of starter fluid, each start up and firing on first pull.
Knock wood


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

oldgeezer said:


> So far less than one week of "drive time", one shot of starter fluid, each start up and firing on first pull.
> Knock wood


you don't have electric start on your machine


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## oldgeezer (Feb 3, 2015)

*Actually, yes was purchased with the option however did not work*



detdrbuzzard said:


> you don't have electric start on your machine


Not what I bargained for when purchased. Tried initially and electric start buzzed and smoke was originating at the wires near the starter motor itself. Called the previous owner and no success with any option of offering any help or resolution. No surprise since used is as is. Expected a little more consideration since I only owned one day. Oh well. Ideas on rebuild or try to purchase used/rebuilt? Model is 38540 and 1995 vintage. Thanks for inputs, direction, opinions. Thanks to all who respond. I am an enthused 68 year old owner of the Toro Powershift.


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## detdrbuzzard (Jan 20, 2012)

oldgeezer said:


> Not what I bargained for when purchased. Tried initially and electric start buzzed and smoke was originating at the wires near the starter motor itself. Called the previous owner and no success with any option of offering any help or resolution. No surprise since used is as is. Expected a little more consideration since I only owned one day. Oh well. Ideas on rebuild or try to purchase used/rebuilt? Model is 38540 and 1995 vintage. Thanks for inputs, direction, opinions. Thanks to all who respond. I am an enthused 68 year old owner of the Toro Powershift.


the electric starter wasn't working on my powershift when I got it. I didn't bother to see if it could be rebuild I just bought a new one. if the engine is cold I'm lucky if I can pull start it which is why most all the machines have an " E " behind the model number. when the 521R is hard to start I usually get it running before screwing up my neck, same with the 521E cause the electric starter isn't working on it either


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

oldgeezer said:


> So far less than one week of "drive time", one shot of starter fluid, each start up and firing on first pull.
> Knock wood


Starter fluid not real good for the engine, if you are using it every time you start it. Maybe your gas is not fresh or not stabilized ? 

Proper cold starting for the Tecumseh as I know it is :


Press the primer 4 times with a full second pause between each prime, then key on, and choke on, throttle up 3/4, pull a couple times slowly until resistance is felt from the engine then recoil it in and pull fast. *Should* start by second pull that way.

If you need starting fluid try putting in a fresh plug of proper heat range.

Hope this helps you kick the fluid to the curb 

Another tip is fill your gas can with non-ethanol ! much better for equipment that sits around for spells at a time and is not used regularly. You can get no ethanol gas at an airfield near you, it's 91 octane and 100 percent gas without the corn  and it doesn't attract moisture from the air and seperate with a bottom layer of gunky watery mix to go down the fuel line.

Hope you get this thing where you can brag about it starting easy


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## Pathfinder13 (Feb 28, 2014)

oldgeezer said:


> Not what I bargained for when purchased. Tried initially and electric start buzzed and smoke was originating at the wires near the starter motor itself. Called the previous owner and no success with any option of offering any help or resolution. No surprise since used is as is. Expected a little more consideration since I only owned one day. Oh well. Ideas on rebuild or try to purchase used/rebuilt? Model is 38540 and 1995 vintage. Thanks for inputs, direction, opinions. Thanks to all who respond. I am an enthused 68 year old owner of the Toro Powershift.


What is your location ? I have a spare Tecumseh electric starter I will not be needing. I can give you a fair deal if you are interested. PM me if you want.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

oldgeezer said:


> So far less than one week of "drive time", one shot of starter fluid, each start up and firing on first pull.
> Knock wood


 PUT THE CAN of STARTING Fluid DOWN. other wise you will damage the engine.


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## threeputtpar (Jan 16, 2014)

I have the same model number, 1990 vintage. If your machine moves in all forward and reverse gears, and powershifts as it should, then you're way ahead of the game.

The starting issue sounds like it's in need of a fresh carb rebuild and a new fuel line. Mine will start on the first pull all season, with 1/2 or 3/4 choke, but after it sits all summer I will need the electric start to spin the engine fast enough to create sufficient vacuum in the carb to get fuel moving again. And that's with a clean carb and new fuel line.

If this is a persistent problem starting it, skip the ether and just pull the plug and use a syringe to put a few drops of fuel directly in the cylinder. It will fire right up.


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## Bonzohansen (Nov 19, 2014)

if you need starter fluid I'd guess a problem in the primer setup - primer or hose has a hole somewhere or maybe something is plugged, it isn't that complicated of fuel a system.


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

oldgeezer said:


> Not what I bargained for when purchased. Tried initially and electric start buzzed and smoke was originating at the wires near the starter motor itself. Called the previous owner and no success with any option of offering any help or resolution. No surprise since used is as is. Expected a little more consideration since I only owned one day. Oh well. Ideas on rebuild or try to purchase used/rebuilt? Model is 38540 and 1995 vintage. Thanks for inputs, direction, opinions. Thanks to all who respond. I am an enthused 68 year old owner of the Toro Powershift.


 THAT is a fine looking machine you got there, GEEZER.


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