# General guidelines needed for starting/operating Predator 212cc repower



## ashwinearl (Sep 8, 2014)

Hi all, I know that several Ariens owners here have predator repowers. I have a 1968 10M6D with the typical predator repower. 

I would like some general guidelines, rules of thumb for starting and operating it. I'm relatively new to small engines in general, so some of this might not be engine specific but general small engine knowledge

Specifics:
Engine: Purchased Sept 2014 at Harbor Freight
212cc Predator
location: Central New York
Engine Upgrades: 0.32 Jet, 140 emulsion tube
Gas: Ethanol free
Maintenance: has gone through 3 hour break in and oil change after breakin
Thrower: 1968 Ariens 10M6D (previously had a 7HP Techumseh)

Questions I have are:

-is there a minimum level of gas that should be kept in the tank during operations
-how should the choke and throttle be set for initial startup
-should the clutch for the wheel and augers be disengaged at start up (I am assuming yes)
-once it has started with the choke on, when and how slow/fast do you turn the choke off
-how long does it need to warm up before operating with auger/wheels and full throttle
-Any suggestions for when shrouding the governor and a heat box to keep the carb from freezing is needed and how to do it?

I have only used it a few times. It has started up on first pull several times, but then other times not. The last time it started first pull with the choke on. I was going to let it warm up a bit but didn't turn the choke off and it stalled and wouldn't start again.

I ask about the gas level, because I know there isn't much in there.

Thanks


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

I try to keep the tank 1/2 full. My starting procedure is as follows:
Full choke
Half throttle 
Auger lever on
Drive lever off
Machine in Nuetral

Starts first pull
Immediatly slide to no choke, and let it run for 5 minutes. 
Engage drive lever and use machine adjusting throttle as necessary. I have some tight areas in my driveway and can't blow snow at full throttle without throwing it into my neighbors yard, so I normally use the throttle to adjust throwing distance.


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## Normex (Feb 21, 2014)

ashwinearl said:


> Hi all, I know that several Ariens owners here have predator repowers. I have a 1968 10M6D with the typical predator repower.
> Questions I have are:
> 
> 1-is there a minimum level of gas that should be kept in the tank during operations
> ...


 1- this question pardon the pun but you need gas at least to do the job.
Normally you should fill it up before your snow blowing and then it is at your discretion as you will learn soon enough how you will address the gas handling.
2-Full choke and 3/4 throttle for starting, again many will say full throttle but I like less since it is where the engine gets its wear the most at start up before the oil has a chance to lubricate everything.
3-You are right both should be disengaged at start up allowing you to visually inspect your blower as the engine warms up.
4-This depends on how cold it is at the moment and if your carb is dialed on the rich side as it looks you have, but essentially as soon it starts reduce immediately to half and you can further reduce and see how your engine reacts but be quick if it shuts off to put more choke but you will see it doesn't take long before you have the choke off completely.
5- a minute or so but be careful that your auger is not frozen from the previous session and if you to remove some ice make sure you do this before you start your engine
6-There are a few members here that have shrouded their carb do a search for shroud or start a new thread but ideally this would be done before the snow season starts. So when you start the engine be close to the choke in case it starts to run rough and reduce your choke or try removing all the choke. The reason it did not want to start was because the engine got flooded so in that case you have to remove the spark plug as you will see it will be wet of gas, just crank without the plug installed and try to dry the plug with compressed air being careful you don't knock the electrode and change the gap and do not over tighten your plug. btw gap should be .30

Good Luck and be careful.


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## ashwinearl (Sep 8, 2014)

Normex said:


> So when you start the engine be close to the choke in case it starts to run rough and reduce your choke or try removing all the choke. The reason it did not want to start was because the engine got flooded so in that case you have to remove the spark plug as you will see it will be wet of gas, just crank without the plug installed and try to dry the plug with compressed air being careful you don't knock the electrode and change the gap and do not over tighten your plug. btw gap should be .30
> 
> Good Luck and be careful.


THAT is exactly what I needed.
The information here is pure gold. Thanks guys. 

very best.


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## HJames (Oct 28, 2013)

You Do Not want to engage the auger bucket engagement lever on these machines while the engine is running, it will damage the jaw clutch. Inspection off the auger/impeller for ice and free movement should be done by hand prior to the starting the engine with the plug wire removed.


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## ashwinearl (Sep 8, 2014)

For the benefit of others out there, and specific to the Predator:
-there is a red knob with Off/On on it. needs to be on

-there is also the gas shutoff valve, that also should be open for full operations.

For us newbies:

-spark plug boot needs to be on. I've been trying to get into the habit of pulling it for doing anything inside, and need to get into the habit of checking it is pressed on fully prior to starting.


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

ashwinearl said:


> -there is a red knob with Off/On on it. needs to be on


Glad my Tech hasn't tossed it's rod (yet). Those predators with their colored knobs are just too complicated for me


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