# ST1032 vs ST1136



## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*E350's ST1032 924084*

* This thread was initially titled _"ST1032 vs ST1136" _but since I ended up purchasing the ST1032 924084 model, the thread will be focused on the maintenance, repair and possible rebuild of the ST1032. So, the title has been revised to match the thread's future focus.

*Mary Lyn and others*: I have a small cabin in the woods off of Highway 50 in the Tahoe area. When it snows, it dumps. Up to two or three feet a night at times. My family and I only use the cabin on the weekends, so we may arrive to find 2-3 feet of new snow on the dirt uneven driveway from the garage to the highway and a four foot sun crusted berm at EOD courtesy of CalTans at the highway. 

Due to our recent low snow Winter, people in the Tahoe/Reno area are selling their snowblowers apparently believing that it will never snow like that again. So prices are way down.

Both are older models. Assuming both are in the same condition (or can be brought up to the same condition for a reasonable price - I am fairly handy) which would be better for my use, etc.? Or other suggestions?


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Based only on 1032 and 1136, there isnt a practical difference between them.

1032 = 10hp and 32" bucket.
1136 = 11hp and 36" bucket.

more important than that is age and condition..
when comparing the two, and deciding which to get, I would consider them essentially equal as to power and scoop width..then base your decision only on age and condition.

If you could get the actual model numbers, that would tell us a lot more.
probably both are 924xxx models, and the model number will be on a tag at the rear of the machine, between the wheels.

Scot


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*sscotsman*: Thank you for your reply. I have asked for and am awaiting the model numbers of each of them. The links to their craigslist ads are in the initial post. The ST1032 appears to be in better condition but I have not viewed either yet. I am trying to arrange that.

If you believe another make or model would be more appropriate for my described use (for instance I wondered about the now discontinued Craftsman track machines), please feel free to make suggestions.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

I have corresponded with the owners of both the ST1136 and the ST1032 and between the two the 1032 would be better for me and is in better shape. 

I also have an opportunity to buy a Honda HS828 for the same price. So if you have time let me know your thoughts:

http://reno.craigslist.org/tls/4994373611.html

If *Mary Lyn or others* know, will the Ariens Track Conversion kit work on the ST1032?

Thanks again.


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## TheSuMofGoD (Feb 27, 2015)

That Honda is a steal even for this Canadian looking at it in USD


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

The Ariens ST1032 is:

Model #: 924084 
Serial #: 000892

I think at this point, I have ruled out the ST1136 so am considering the Honda HS828 (second in line for that one) and the Ariens 1032 above.

Any thoughts?


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## Toxic (Jan 30, 2015)

Holy cow..i havent seen one of those hondas for sale in my neck of the woods that age for anything less than 1200. If it was me i would buy it just to flip and keep the bigger 1032.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

You silly Canadians! Don't you know that it is never going to snow again in Truckee, CA (the other "CA") and that the insulation mapmakers will have to move it from its current designation which is in same zone as Montana, N. Dakota, Michigan, Wisconsin, Vermont, to a designation shared by say, Belize? 

But wait just one minute! There is some other guy who apparently believes what the US East Coast has learned during the past three Winters, that California has been shielded by an unusual high pressure ridge which will not last for decades but Winter will, in fact, come again to Truckee on the North side of L. Tahoe and to Echo Summit on its South. 

So, the Honda HS828 sold just minutes ago to some other climate change deny-er. 

Wait just one more minute. Forget about the high pressure ridge theory, come to think of it when our current governor was our governor in the late '70's, there was also a five year drought. Since correlation is causation for climate change advocates, I will pose the theory that climate change is caused by governor moon beam.

But just in case correlation is not causation, and Winter will in fact come again, I am hoping for a call from the ST1032 seller to head up with a trailer to Truckee early tomorrow morning. 

I will let you know how it turns out and hopefully to post pictures.

Thanks for all your help both here and in PMs.

BTW, the next cheapest used HS828 on craigslist is $800. Dang, again...


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## TheSuMofGoD (Feb 27, 2015)

This is what you get in Canada for a Honda under $500.00

Honda HS624 Snowblower | snowblowers | Gatineau | Kijiji

Looks like someone used it as target practice with a scatter gun

Shame you didn't jump on that 828 for $300.00


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Now its my turn to say "Holy cow!"

"Shame" is an appropriate word for the deal I missed. "Foolish" will be another if after using the 6x6 to winch the 35 Ton logsplitter into the back of my 1950's Dodge pickup bed trailer, I hear back from the other seller to find out the ST1032 is sold also.

Hopefully he just has more of a nightlife than my wife and I do and I will be heading up in the morning to drop the splitter and then over to pick up the ST1032. So, since you apparently are close to Him, how 'bout some of dem prayers der?


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Road trip!

_(Thanks for your prayers...)_


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Picked up the Ariens ST1032 Model #: 924084 Serial #: 000892 yesterday. It is a quality machine. Appears to have been only lightly used. Paint is near perfect. Well mantained, clean oil, fuel line replaced, no rust, no electric start, pull start only, starts right up with choke. It only has two forward speeds rabbit and tortoise and the same in reverse. He sold it to me for $250. I am really happy with the purchase. Not because I think it was the right purchase, but because I think it was a cheap lessen on my journey learning about what is likely appropriate and not appropriate for my particular use, and I can likely sell the machine for more than I paid for it at the beginning of Winter. 

So, this is what my initial impressions are. Please make comments/suggestions. You guys have a lot of knowledge and experience and I am just learning about these machines. 

My use: My driveway is 16 feet of 1929 concrete containing raised granite nubs for traction, then turning to forest floor dirt (former duff) for a 150' down a slight grade to the hwy. At ~6,800 ft. elev. Western side of the California Sierras. We had 9-12 inches of fresh snow just two days before which yesterday afternoon turned to 6-8 inches of slush to try out the machine. Things I have learned:

1. Two of these Tractor Supply Co. ramps put together are great! 

Reese® Farm & Ranch Extra Wide 24 in. X 84 in. Utility Ramp, 900 lb. - Tractor Supply Co.

2. Likely could install a "Clarence Kit" to reduce the 3/8" clearance between the impeller and the impeller housing to increase throw distance.

3. Learned that now that I have a snowblower, I will need to preclean the driveway at the beginning of the season. Didn't break a sheer pin but got a branch stuck and then a 3" piece of granite lodged at the intersection betwen the auger and the impeller. No damage, but learned something.

4. My driveway slope appears to be too steep for a wheeled machine. This machine apparently has a differential, because when heading up slope, it would constantly lose traction with one wheel spinning and the other not moving. Or it would not lose traction, but the wheels would dig a rut into the dirt. So, questions:

a. Would chains make a difference?
b. Will it likely perform better in colder conditions (i.e., not slush)?
c. Since the wheels can have enough traction to dig a dirt rut, is it likely that the friction disk is ok? Or should I replace the friction disk prior to next Winter because of the age of the machine and the disk is a likely wear item and I won't know the true capability of the machine without replacing it?
d. Would a track machine (such as a Honda HS828 or a Ariens on which a track converter kit can be installed) be more appropriate for my use?
Anyway guys. My motto in life is "Learning slowly." Thanks for all your help!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

The left wheel should have a lock for the differential.

You can remove the bottom cover and look under there and see the condition of the friction disc and then take it from there. If it looks good I wouldn't bother.

If you hit things and didn't brake any shear pins, I would take the pins out and make sure the augers are not rusted to the shaft. The should spin freely with the pins removed.

Any snow blower is going to perform terrible with slush.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Thanks *Shryp*. Understood and will do. Is there a grease or other lube I should put on the auger shaft? This is the slickest stuff I have ever found:

24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.















And I highly recommend it for brake caliper slide pins. So, if there are not other recommendations, I will just use it.

My guess is that I should remove the augers from the shaft, lube and replace and make sure that sheer pins were used instead of bolts.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

E350 said:


> Thanks *Shryp*. Understood and will do. Is there a grease or other lube I should put on the auger shaft?


Any old grease from any old grease gun.

I say "grease gun" since there should be zerk fittings on the augers for this very purpose. No need to take anything apart!

That's of course assuming the augers aren't currently stuck on the shaft. I had to deal with that recently on a 1032 and did NOT enjoy it.

Edit: the above of course is in reference to where the augers sit on the shaft and not where the shaft runs in its bushings. For the bushings I'd use wheel bearing grease or something similar. Brake caliper grease is not really the right product - it's not meant for things that move continuously and has a lot of high-temp additives that are not needed.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Thanks *ELaw*: I am excited to prepare for Winter (hopefully we will lose the high pressure ridge and actually have precipitation to go with the cold this next Winter). So am looking forward to learning about and preparing the new-to-me Ariens ST1032. I actually don't have a good zerk fitting grease gun. The ones I have had in the past were a little too winky to work right without leaking.

I also have a 6x6 Ranger and a used (likely too narrow) Snow Hawg ATV snowblower which I need to fabricate a push "stinger" for and buy tire chains for the Ranger. The ones at tirechains.com are $96 a pair so at three pairs of wheels on a 6x6, that is ... Hmmm. Maybe I'll start with only the front and rear wheels.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

E350 said:


> The ones at tirechains.com are $96 a pair so at three pairs of wheels on a 6x6, that is ... Hmmm. Maybe I'll start with only the front and rear wheels.


I read somewhere at another thread that you can "make" your own chains and it will cost you 1/2 the price or less, it may perhaps be worth to research.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*hsblowersfan*: 10-4 on that. And many years ago I bought the chain making tool (kinda a combo bolt cutter/crimper thing) from tirechain.com because I thought I that I would use some of my partly worn vehicle chains to remake and reuse chains. But I have only used it to shorten chains (which I could have just used a chop saw to do anyway). 

But here's my current thinking based upon reading I have done on this forum and the help from you guys.

1. I am going to investigate whether or not there is a differential lock on one of the Ariens ST1032 hubs. If so I am going to try to use it with differential locked without chains. That way I will be able to use it on the wooden deck.

2. A number of years ago, I bought a used Kimpex 48" wide ATV blower which needed a stinger to be contstructed for use on an ATV. When I went used ATV shopping I ended up buying a 2006 Polaris Ranger 700 EFI 6x6 which is wider than the Kimpex by about 6". The 6x6 has been great for skidding logs and I put 2500 lb winches front and back which works great for directing tree falling. I now get it that a 6x6 is a toy compared to a Satoh 4x4 370D small tractor on which I could have put a PTO-powered snowblower. Regardless, I have the Ranger, so I am going to experiment with what I have by welding the stinger for the 6x6 and maybe building auger side extension wings for the Kimpex. And I will likely save up and buy at least two pairs of the chains below from tirechain.com at the exhobitant prices from tirechain.com because for many years I used their CAM lock V-bar chains on vehicles and although a CAM lock wouldn't be necessary for the 6x6 tires, the V-bar version without the CAM lock for ATV tires may be worth the money. But suggestions are always appreciated.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*UPDATE! *I am glad that the tree faller's guy plowed the EOD berm because I wouldn't want to get high centered with the back of the truck hanging out on the Hwy, but there was only 8 inches of light fluffy powder beyond it and up to the top of the driveway. So I was able to park the Bronco in 4WD at the top of the driveway without blowing. But that didn't stop me from busting out the ST1032 which started right up and then died in a few minutes because it was out of fuel (but not out of crankcase oil). It went up and down and around round and although I can see where a few bolts are missing (chute deflector and gas tank bracket) it did a great job scraping/blowing down to the dirt.

Couple of newbie initial thoughts:

First, I will never look at my driveway the same way again. Now, more like *BlueHill *likely looks at his Saskatchewan fields in Spring after the frost heave has given birth to rocks.

And when it hits a rock (really the tip of an immovable granite iceberg pushing through the dirt driveway) it pivots because the big heavy 32" wide bucket is a honking wide lever. But this is only rude when in high gear moving forward. And I have been able to pivot the scraper blade up and down off the fulcrum of the wheels to work my driveway. 

I haven't put the chains on yet, but will soon. (First, I think I need to thaw a water line.) And I don't think it has the locking differential option, at least the left hub doesn't appear to have anything to adjust.

Second, unless there is something wrong with my ST1032, let's call reverse what it really is: "Pull Assist."

In other words, there is no fear of it running over me in reverse, that's for sure.

Third, I have no idea how it will work in crunchy old snow, but I am sure I will find out.

Fourth, it is unlikely that I will be able to get it up on my deck (but I am about to go back out to try if I can drive it up and around the back).

Fifth, this DIY blow your own snow stuff is not too bad and kinda fun. So that brings me to,

Sixth, I can't wait to get the ATV Kimpex with an improvised electric attached to the 6x6 Polaris Ranger.

Here's Beers to You!


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Got it up on the deck. Learned a couple of things: A) As long as the dog's leash does not go into the impeller before you release the auger lever, you are good to go; B) I have a bumpy layer of ice on my deck, which is catching the bucket, so any suggestion on different skids would be great; C) This machine is much more well mannered on a smooth surface like a deck (compared to an inclined dirt driveway), so much so that I think that anyone with a large concrete driveway who needs a large auger bucket would be happy with it.

Going to put the chains on now...


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## bwright1818 (Dec 2, 2014)

Agreed that using the 1032, on anything other than smooth, concrete with no ice, is a job for 350 pound lumber jacks, not mere mortals. Very prone to directional misbehaving. 24" wide machines may take more passes but are much easier on the back. I have a 1032 with chains and one without chains. While the chained machine will drive up and down grades better than the unchained one, this phenomenon of jerking side to side, as well as the front end rising, is a lot worse on the chained machine. If you don't have chains on yet, you may want to keep it that way. They refer to these 1032s as "beasts." Indeed they are. "Release the Crackin!!"

They do have a differential lock, which will frequently be found either broken, missing parts, rusted in the disengaged position or stuck that way from old grease. Otherwise, both wheels should drive with unrelenting authority.

As for low driving power in reverse, maybe you need a new friction wheel; but my experience is leaning towards the mechanism that allows the driving part of the friction wheel system to move in and out. 4 out of 4 of my older machines with this drive system, have this problem, which I have not gotten into, yet. The symptom is that drive adjustment is touchy and erratic. Apparently, this sliding mechanism gets gummed up and has to be lubed or disassembled and cleaned. Again, I have not done this yet, so I will deffer to the more experienced guys here.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Hey Guys, your help will be appreciated.

I was expecting some sort of sophisticated differential lock. Instead I find that there is a hole on the left wheel hub where some sort of pin can be inserted to lock the hub to the wheel. (Compare left and right wheel and hub in the pictures below - the right wheel is solid to the axle while the left wheel can be locked or unlocked to the hub which is attached to the axle by use of some sort of pin.)

I stuck a phillips head screw driver in there and yes it does lock the hub - until it falls out - but there must be a part missing which is a little more sophisticated than using a screwdriver!

Any pictures would be appreciated of what part is missing to make the hub lock and unlock more easily? 

Also you can see that the scraper bar is worn. Unless you guys suggest otherwise I am going to pick up some 1/4" thick 2" wide hardened plow steel bar stock and make a new scraper bar.

I am also thinking about buying some of the steel "gravel shoes" from snowblowerskids.com since I plow on a dirt driveway with tips of granite boulders protruding through the dirt in various locations. What do you think? And *bwright1818 *don't you think that the nuts protruding from the bottom of the scraper bar could be a cause of the snow blower catching irregularities on the dirt driveway surface resulting in the snow blower being deflected? I think I will use those flat head carriage bolts which another member posted with the flat head down and the nuts on the inside of the auger bucket. What do you guys think?

My 2-link V-bar chains are a link too long so I am planning on cutting them down and then deflating the tires slightly, permanently mounting them and then re-inflating the tires while position the cross-links. Any thoughts?


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## sscotsman (Dec 8, 2010)

Im pretty sure you have a true differential in there, not just a basic "locking axle"..

True differential:
when engaged, both wheels turn, under power, but independently of each other..which makes turning very easy.
You can also "lock" the differential, which essentially just locks both wheels together, which loses the benefit of the differential, but supposedly gains traction..I have a '71 Ariens with the differential and I love it..I never lock the axles, I leave it in differential mode all the time.

More basic snowblowers can have just a pin to lock the wheel to the axle..
One wheel is always attached to the axle, and the other wheel can be pinned or unpinned. With both wheels pinned, both are being driven, but there is no differential, so the wheels are locked together..which makes turning difficult.
To make turning easier, you can un-pin one wheel..which just makes that wheel loose on the axle, which aids turning, but it's not being driven! at all, its just flopping loose on the axle..so essentially in that mode you only have one wheel being driven. not nearly as effective as a differential.

So, your machine should have a differential, not the basic "pin the wheel to the axle"..you must be missing part of the differential lock apparatus on the outside of the wheel..here are your three manuals:

Owners manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/02402800H.pdf

Parts manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/PM-24-93.pdf

Service manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/00040600.pdf

Scot


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*sscottsman*: Thanks, the Owner's Manual you linked says this:

 "Differential Lock​ On units with differential, to engage differential​ lock pull and turn knob to "LOCKED" position​ and release (it will snap in when positioned​ correctly). To resume differential action, for​ transport, etc., pull and turn knob to​ "UNLOCKED" and release.​ With differential locked, power is applied equally​ to both wheels. Engage differential lock ( located​ in left wheel hub) for best traction when throwing​ snow."

 Obviously my left hub is missing the lockout. 

The parts manual you linked does not show a picture of the lockout hub, but mentions the following number:

 05240530

Any pictures of the actual part would be greatly appreciated.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

E350, the lockout should look like this. Yours is missing the control knob.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*JJG723*: Thank you very much! So do you think this is all I need?


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Yup, that should do it. Great machine you have there!


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

_*Sold!*_ Er... hub lockout bought. *JJ*, my plans are to get the machine back to 100%. It doesn't seem to need much. It does start after priming on the first, second or third pull. The hub lockout will help. So will replacing the scraper bar. And maybe adding the gravel shoes. And the chute deflector linkage is jerry rigged. And then I have to look into why I call reverse "Pull Assist" as *bwright1818 *described below:



bwright1818 said:


> As for low driving power in reverse, maybe you need a new friction wheel; but my experience is leaning towards the mechanism that allows the driving part of the friction wheel system to move in and out. 4 out of 4 of my older machines with this drive system, have this problem, which I have not gotten into, yet. The symptom is that drive adjustment is touchy and erratic. Apparently, this sliding mechanism gets gummed up and has to be lubed or disassembled and cleaned. Again, I have not done this yet, so I will deffer to the more experienced guys here.


When I get into looking at the friction wheel set up, I will post pictures of what I find and what I learn and ask questions.

Since your signature lists two 32" Ariens, no doubt you know these machines well. If you have a link describing your 32"s I would be interested in reading what improvements Ariens made after they designed my machine.* And of course I will be searching here for threads on my Model 924084 machine. And I am following *ELaw*'s rebuild thread with interest.

* Found this one on changes to chute control:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...0113-new-ariens-chute-control-mechanisms.html


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Oh, yeah, one more thing, I have been meaning to address question raised by the title of this thread. Based on my limited experience using the ST1032, I couldn't imagine man handling a ST1136 with a four inch wider auger bucket and only one more horse power. The ST1032's 32" bucket is wide enough for me and although the ST1032 likely has sufficient power for my use, I can see why Ariens eventually designed a 1332 Pro with almost one-third more horsepower than the ST1032.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

E350, I don't have a link readily available but my signature lists the year and model number of my machines. A quick Google search should get you some info. Here is a pick of my 32" machines side by side from last winter.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Blew 12" from the driveway on Friday, 16" on the deck Sunday and new 6" in the driveway Sunday. (Up to 31" new snow forecasted today and tonight.)

Observations:

1. Lock out hub - Awesome !
2. Chains - Awesome ! (But ST1032 has very little clearance between auger housing and tire so installation is tricky)
3. Use of Lock out hub and Chains when needed - Doubly Awesome !!

My guess is that when performing as intended, the ST1032 is a great machine with the engine moving the machine and cutting the snow. But because it is big and heavy, when not performing per specs, it is very hard to muscle around. 

*My reverse barely works. It is like the "clutch" is slipping while in reverse. Any suggestions? Is there an adjustment I should check? Is there a disk or other wear item I should buy now to take with me when we go up for Christmas just to be on the safe side?* 

_*Merry Christmas*_ guys!


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## RIT333 (Feb 6, 2014)

If you pull off the bottom panel under the transmission, you will see a driven disc (all metal) and a disc perpendicular to it with rubber around it. Either the rubber is worn, or the linkage needs adjustment to allow the rubber to press harder against the letal disc, or the metal disc could bee greasy and just needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner. It is a fairly simple set-up.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

*RIT333*: Thank you for your concise suggestions. I just read the Owner's Manual and the Service Manual and I think with your post I have a general understanding of how the mechanism works. Hopefully inspection will make the cause of the issue evident. But by just looking at the diagram, I can't imagine why the clutch or disk would slip in reverse but not in forward, since it appears that the change from forward to reverse is accomplished merely by moving the friction wheel from one side of the drive plate to the other. See attached diagram.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Great video:






"It drove forward just fine, but in reverse I would push against the machine and it would start slipping. So, I turned the adjuster in 1/2 turn first time, then another 1/2 turn. And as you can see it is not running away on its own without the clutch being engaged, so it means that the adjustment is correct. When it is going forward I pull back on the machine to see if it is slipping and when in reverse push against the machine to see if it is slipping. If you adjust it too tight the machine will take off on you." -- discussed at minute 13:21

So I will first inspect and clean and grease the box internals per advice and then replace the friction disc for good measure. 

OK, guys, do you have manufacturer/product recommendations and source for a replacement friction disc? Should I buy OEM for this part?

It is Ariens friction disc P/N 00300300

BTW, what a cool "Keep It Simple Stupid" drive system! 






Works like what drives our automobiles, rubber creating friction on a surface. Sure, we need to replace the friction disc every few years just like we replace our automobile's tires every few years.

And if *hsblowersfan* comes across this thread, why wouldn't you just put a friction disc drive assembly on each side of your forthcoming ride on track drive tractor snowblower? Would seem to give you quick zero turning with reverse on one side and forward on the other just like a true tractor.


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

E350 said:


> If *hsblowersfan* comes across this thread, why wouldn't you just put a friction disc drive assembly on each side of your forthcoming ride on track drive tractor snowblower? Would seem to give you quick zero turning with reverse on one side and forward on the other just like a true tractor.


*E350*,
The friction disc type transmission is a very well design system used for so many years by so many manufactures including the ones that today use only hydrostatic transmissions.
What this system lacks (IMHO) is the ability to control the speed without having to release the "clutch" or stop the machine to change gears. 
With a hydrostatic transmission you engage the drive belt and you can control the speed with the lever, you can make it go slow/fast-forward/reverse without having to relese the drive belt "clutch" lever.
Same principle applies to the Zero turn Hydro Pumps and Motors, with the exception that the pumps are running all the time. You control the motors which control the speed and rotation (forward/reverse) of each driven wheel with independent levers, that is how you can achieve Zero-Turns.





I DO NOT think that you could achieve this with two friction disc transmissions, but maybe I'm wrong :facepalm_zpsdj194qh


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

OK, now that John Deere EZtrak zero turn with tracks is way cool... What a great base to build from. But wait a minute. Were the tracks added aftermarket?


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## YSHSfan (Jun 25, 2014)

E350 said:


> OK, now that John Deere EZtrak zero turn with tracks is way cool... What a great base to build from. But wait a minute. Were the tracks added aftermarket?


Tracks are probably from a skid (or mini skid) steer or a mini excavator.


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