# Short and Somewhat Incomplete Review of ST424



## NETim1187 (8 d ago)

I picked up my ST424 yesterday, unassembled, still in the crate, and brought it home. Despite assurances from the "dealer" that it would be assembled, it wasn't. 

I took it home anyway and said good bye to this "dealer" forever. (A fairly large national chain who shall remain nameless.)

It won't be too difficult to assemble from all appearances. YT videos exist and there's always the manual. 

Getting it out of the truck bed still in the crate wasn't going to happen. I basically tore the pallet down around the blower and wheeled it down some ramps on to the driveway. Two of the handle bolts were missing, lost in shipment it appears. I cobbled a couple bolts together so the handle could be used to wheel the 300 some odd pound beast down the ramps. I'm trying to get some bolts out of Husqvarna. 

I shoulda just had it delivered directly to my home rather than the "dealer."

A quick glance shows the oil drain on the engine has been extended by a short length of pipe, so oil changes shouldn't be too messy.

The blower appears to be solid and HEAVY. 

I went with the wheeled version as my previous machine was wheeled and I got along fine with that. 

No snow here at the moment, so I can't report on how well it throws snow. Winter's mid stride here. I'm sure it will see some use yet this year. 

That's it!!


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## Beanhead (Oct 17, 2021)

Post up a picture, we like to see shiny new machines. (and old ones too)


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## Ballroomblitz (Nov 20, 2015)

Yes some pictures please, we all enjoy seeing a brand new toy being unboxed reminds us of Christmas all over again!


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

It sounds like you purchased the machine from a big box type store, which is not what I consider to be a dealer, they are a retailer. 
If the machine was purchased from a dealer it would have been assembled and they would have gone through the machine prep before it left their shop.
I would read the owners manual thoroughly and go through the step by step instructions for set up and adjustments, to be sure everything is functioning as it should.
Check the oil level before starting the engine.
And yes, please post some pics of your new machine and welcome to the forum.


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## dr bob (Dec 12, 2015)

Things I've learned:

I've watched the big-box "assembly technicians" do their thing, getting a machine in a crate ready to go out on the front line. Lots of battery impact gun work, just get the parts mounted as fast as possible. Having the opportunity to do that assembly more carefully is a blessing. You mention you are between storms, so no time pressure.

Follow Ziggy65's advice, and go through everything you can get to on the machine to make sure that the right fasteners are used, and they are torqued accurately rather than too loose or impact-tightened to where they are stretched too much.

Most of the remaining assembly on mine was placing the chute and the handles. Add some grease where the chute fits onto the bottom section, and you'll be rewarded with easy operation. I ended up taking some of the slack out of the chute cables so the chute would reliably travel all the way left and right. Look where the chute travel is limited against the support hoop, and add something there to keep the contact damage to a minimum. I started with some black Gorilla tape around the tube but that didn't last long. It has some hose around it now, held in place with contact cement. 

Carefully wax the chute inside and out, and you'll be rewarded with a lot less chute clogging plus greater throwing distance. Do the same in the front of the machine, including the auger flights and the inside surface of the front bucket and the impeller and housing. Beware of sharp stuff in the front as you work, of course.

The control cables will benefit from lubrication. Bike shops sell fancy fittings and tools for lubricating cables, and specialty lubricants like Tri-Flon. WD40 is more solvent than lubricant, so specifically doesn't get this duty. Add grease to the pivot points on the control handles, underneath where the cables connect, and to the little finger cam where the left handle interlock cable locks the right-side handle for the auger drive. Actuate the left (drive) handle and watch what moves at the right handle, and add a little grease to where the finger cam fits over the plastic pin there.

My machine came with no oil in it, but had a dose of cheap "break-in" oil included in a separate bottle. That oil went directly into the chainsaw chain-lube bottle, and an initial charge of good synthetic went in the snow blower engine for first start and run. Run the engine on fresh fuel for a bit with no load, at idle initially then up and down the rev range a few times. Ten minutes or so is plenty. Drain that oil along with any remaining casting and machining debris. Refill with new synthetic oil and you are good to go with load on it when it snows.

Be Sure to adjust the front skid shoe height so the scraper bar inside is just clear of the floor. Common method is to place a couple paint stir stick on the floor, set the machine on them at the scraper bar, then adjust the skid shoes to contact the floor. If you are clearing a gravel drive, raise the scraper up high by lowering the skid shoes even more. Check this clearance very regularly. I missed this step initially and ended up with some accidental damage to the scraper bar and the edge of the bucket. Nothing critical. Credit goes to the other members here who reminded me to look.

Enjoy your new machine!


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## NETim1187 (8 d ago)




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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

That JD built JD is in really nice condition, definitely a keeper IMHO.
Let us know how you like your new Huskie once you have used it a few times, nice looking machine.


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## NETim1187 (8 d ago)

Ziggy65 said:


> That JD built JD is in really nice condition, definitely a keeper IMHO.
> Let us know how you like your new Huskie once you have used it a few times, nice looking machine.


I think that old '88 JD is in great shape. I try to take care of my stuff.  I'll go over it this Spring and do a little reconditioning. I am a warm weather mechanic.  

The Husky should be a snow throwin' monster given that the engine is rated at 11HP.


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