# Just picked up my first YS624T



## Naughtrick (10 mo ago)

Hey all, I just picked up a YS624T the other day, for a good price. I am amazed at the condition of this machine! It looks way better than my Craftsman which is about half the age. The PO told me it would start up, rev very high, then die. I took it home, opened the metal gas tank and saw it was filled with rust. I removed the tank, fuel lines, filter, and finally carb. Everything was crusted over. I have the carb soaking in the ultrasonic cleaner right now. The engine oil level is good. I've found a lot of info on this site but I don't have a manual so I'm trying to figure things out. What type of oil should I use in the gearbox, and how much? What other issues should I be looking for? I'll post some pics as soon as I figure out how.
Thanks, Rick


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## BullFrog (Oct 14, 2015)

Congrats on your acquisition and welcome to the group. Glad to have you with us. 👍


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## UNDERTAKER (Dec 30, 2013)

*MAZEL TOV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ALOHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!







*


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## cpchriste (Jan 19, 2014)

Naughtrick said:


> I have the carb soaking in the ultrasonic cleaner right now. I've found a lot of info on this site but I don't have a manual so I'm trying to figure things out. What type of oil should I use in the gearbox, and how much? What other issues should I be looking for? I'll post some pics as soon as I figure out how.


Manual are out there. PM me if you cant find one. The carb is the main issue and you're doing the right thing. Also take the jets out to be sure they're clean. The second issue will be the shift linkage: clean the hex shaft so it will slide easily and then synchronize the shifting action by adjusting the turnbuckle in the shift rod until the shifting works correctly.
You know how to clean the tank thoroughly? You know to clean the sediment bowl?
Posting pics may require you to post a minimum number of times. Say hello in several posts.


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## YammiRocks (11 mo ago)

Naughtrick said:


> Hey all, I just picked up a YS624T the other day, for a good price. I am amazed at the condition of this machine! It looks way better than my Craftsman which is about half the age. The PO told me it would start up, rev very high, then die. I took it home, opened the metal gas tank and saw it was filled with rust. I removed the tank, fuel lines, filter, and finally carb. Everything was crusted over. I have the carb soaking in the ultrasonic cleaner right now. The engine oil level is good. I've found a lot of info on this site but I don't have a manual so I'm trying to figure things out. What type of oil should I use in the gearbox, and how much? What other issues should I be looking for? I'll post some pics as soon as I figure out how.
> Thanks, Rick


Welcome to this forum. The metal tank will suggest to me that your machine is a pre 1989 unit. I have a 1989 YS624TEN with the plastic fuel tank. I believe mechanically both machines shared almost all components with exceptions like chute cranking linkages, 4 forward vs three forward speeds etc.
So, 1. The gear case uses SAE 90 gear oil and needs 80 cc to fill.
2. Track deflection is 1/2" under an 11 lb. force applied between wheels. Remember to loosen the nut fastening each side's idler wheel to shaft before you start to crank on the adjusting nuts to tighten or loosening track tension.
3. After this many years, you may have a slight leakage from carb bowl overflowing because needle valve no longer seal tight. I am having this phenomenon presently and no cleaning(s) of carb had worked so far. I now close shut off valve at bottom of fuel tank after each use The leak is about a couple of teaspoons every 24 hours when the SO valve is left open. If you have the same problem and you found root cause and a solution, please let me know.
My pet theory is the all plastic float and tang can no longer exert enough pressure on needle valve to seal. In the old days floats had a metal tang that one can bend to increase force on NV. Them good old days, sigh !
4. Tilt machine on its bucket, open the belly pan and lubricate all the shift linkages sparingly with grease, especially the hex shaft needs only slight application of grease to avoid any excesses to be flung onto friction and rubber discs.
5. Remove belt drive cover and inspect belt(s) condition. Most if not all belts look good from topside. The damage is usually at bottom of V where cracks start.
6. Check all three bearings at auger assembly. I needed to replace bearing ( was scratchy but not in failure mode ) at drive shaft to auger gear box so far. Both bearings at bucket sides still good, so I pumped new grease into them.
Cheers and good luck.


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## Naughtrick (10 mo ago)

cpchriste said:


> Manual are out there. PM me if you cant find one. The carb is the main issue and you're doing the right thing. Also take the jets out to be sure they're clean. The second issue will be the shift linkage: clean the hex shaft so it will slide easily and then synchronize the shifting action by adjusting the turnbuckle in the shift rod until the shifting works correctly.
> You know how to clean the tank thoroughly? You know to clean the sediment bowl?
> Posting pics may require you to post a minimum number of times. Say hello in several posts.





cpchriste said:


> Manual are out there. PM me if you cant find one. The carb is the main issue and you're doing the right thing. Also take the jets out to be sure they're clean. The second issue will be the shift linkage: clean the hex shaft so it will slide easily and then synchronize the shifting action by adjusting the turnbuckle in the shift rod until the shifting works correctly.
> You know how to clean the tank thoroughly? You know to clean the sediment bowl?
> Posting pics may require you to post a minimum number of times. Say hello in several posts.


Thanks for the reply, I cleaned the carb twice and got the engine to stay running, but rough. I haven't had much time to tinker with it. I used Evaporust on the tank so it's clean now. The sediment bowl was also cleaned. Once I get it running smoothly, I'll dig into the internals. I still haven't found a manual. A carb rebuild kit would be nice but the only one I found is over $100 on Ebay (including shipping)


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## Naughtrick (10 mo ago)

YammiRocks said:


> Welcome to this forum. The metal tank will suggest to me that your machine is a pre 1989 unit. I have a 1989 YS624TEN with the plastic fuel tank. I believe mechanically both machines shared almost all components with exceptions like chute cranking linkages, 4 forward vs three forward speeds etc.
> So, 1. The gear case uses SAE 90 gear oil and needs 80 cc to fill.
> 2. Track deflection is 1/2" under an 11 lb. force applied between wheels. Remember to loosen the nut fastening each side's idler wheel to shaft before you start to crank on the adjusting nuts to tighten or loosening track tension.
> 3. After this many years, you may have a slight leakage from carb bowl overflowing because needle valve no longer seal tight. I am having this phenomenon presently and no cleaning(s) of carb had worked so far. I now close shut off valve at bottom of fuel tank after each use The leak is about a couple of teaspoons every 24 hours when the SO valve is left open. If you have the same problem and you found root cause and a solution, please let me know.
> ...


Thanks for the reply, After searching a lot of sites, I think the unit is from 1987. I haven't found a manual yet, but I did find some info. I need to spend more time on the carb before I move on to the other issues. I'll post an update when I have one.


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## YammiRocks (11 mo ago)

Naughtrick said:


> Thanks for the reply, After searching a lot of sites, I think the unit is from 1987. I haven't found a manual yet, but I did find some info. I need to spend more time on the carb before I move on to the other issues. I'll post an update when I have one.


I have only the operator manual not the service manual and had not come across any members here who have one to share. However, you'll find this Yammi group is quite knowledgeable, very helpful and will share their experiences readily.
Cheers.


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