# Craftsman 247.88955 Snow Thrower running rough



## kah5683 (Dec 5, 2013)

Had a thread I started about this snowthrower not moving, and was given great advice, and got it moving again:

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...tsman-247-88955-snow-thrower-doesnt-move.html

I mentioned in that thread about the snowthrower running rough, and GustoGuy gave some preliminary advice, but needed the model number. I provided what he needed (I think), but hadn't heard back from him yet. Thought I would start another thread about this specific topic to make it easier.

Here's a picture of the snowthrower:










I used the snowthrower yesterday, and it was VERY rough. When it wasn't moving, sounded like it was going to die. I adjusted the choke, but it helped very little. It always has seemed like the choke had to be dialed close to fully on, even when warmed up.

If additional info is needed from me about the snowthrower, please let me know...

Thanks!


----------



## Piedmont (Nov 13, 2013)

Certainly the carb is gummed up as stated. Usually it has to do with the jet needle, which is a bolt/screw in the carb that can look either like a bolt OR a long needle but regardless it's almost always brass and has teeny tiny holes in it. Those holes need to be clean and clear, otherwise you will either get throttling or have to keep the choke up high. This bolt also may have a plastic cap on it, making it harder to realize it can come out as you have to take the cap off first.

I've noticed carbs being gummed up is really something that is becoming common I'm actually thinking gas has changed or really become cheaper. I've had a gamut of carbs get gummed up that I now always use stabilizer (the blue kind you can put in every tank, the red kind is for overwintering/oversummering). 

Find that bolt, use a needle, clean the tiny holes without enlarging. Then put some carb/injector cleaner that goes in the gas tank and after about 3 minutes you should notice it purr like a kitten. Then be ready to do it again next year  

Here's some examples of the bolt I'm talking about. Your carb should only have one of these

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/images/briggs_lawn-boy_plastic_carb/jets_nozzle_tube.JPG




in my case they were accessible from the outside of the carb but I don't have a craftsman. I had to remove the carb cover, pop off a cover to the needle valve, then remove the needle valve and clean it. It was really gummed up, but at least I didn't have to remove the carb or open it up to get to it. Hopefully you don't either.


----------



## kah5683 (Dec 5, 2013)

Bought carb cleaner to put in gas. Ran into a Sears guy who works on snowthrowers. He said to just put in gas and run for a while. Might not have to clean jets. Did that, and after 45 minutes or so, still rough (was clearing snow off driveway).

I assume on the choke, that once it is warmed up, I can turn it all the way off? Or no? Seems I always have to keep close to the full choke.

Not sure where the jet part is so I can clean. Here is a link to my manual that has a breakout pic of the parts:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ff6lar73kgpfdge/Snowblower_Manual.pdf

And here is the pic:










Can you tell me which one it is?

Thank you!


----------



## kah5683 (Dec 5, 2013)

Any thoughts on where to find the jets to clean as suggested from an earlier posting from Piedmont from picture in the post above this one?

Also, I looked in manual under "troubleshooting", and under "engine runs erratically", one of the choices is "carburetor out of adjustment". How would I adjust the carburetor on this model?

Thanks!


----------



## darcy32171 (Nov 28, 2013)

#65 is your carb. Need a full image of it. That main needle jet will be accessible once the float boal is removed.


----------



## db9938 (Nov 17, 2013)

Well, this isn't much better:

Model # 24788955 | Parts.Sears.com

But according to the list, it would appear that #65A is the rebuild kit.


----------



## Snowcone (Jul 17, 2013)

I would just buy a new carburator from eBay or wherever. They are dirt cheap and you'll be sure everything is cleaned and no jets were missed in cleaning. And it's quicker to take the old one off and put the new one on. And if you wanted you could clean the old one and keep it as a backup. Or toss it in the trash. I'm just trying to save you from any further headaches.

And if you can find ethanol free gas buy that from now on for your lawn mowers snowblowers weed eaters etc. I found a gas station around me that has it in super unleaded and only use that. Add stabil to the gas can before you fill it up and you'll always be treated for storage.

Ethanol gasoline attracts water and will trash your carburator. And what happens is exactly what's happening to you.

Merry Christmas


----------



## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

If you are replacing the carb it might be a good time to replace the fuel line too.


----------



## BOSMECH (Dec 16, 2010)

Just buy a can of spray carb cleaner remove the carb then take a part and clean all the jets and ports, its very easy or just get a new one if that would be easier.


----------



## CO Snow (Dec 8, 2011)

Before you start tearing into things, check the gas cap. Is it a Tecumseh engine? If so, see if there is a round metal disc inside the cap. These are notorious for breaking off and then the gas tank is not vented properly. I just had this with my 10 yr old Craftsman. If so, replace the cap.


----------

