# Old Craftsman 536-90500602 Where to start on fix???



## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

Hi guys,

I am a fixit guy, but I've never worked on a snow blower or a Tecumseh motor before so before I go hog wild on this thing, I thought I would post this here for some guidance. The situation:

1.) This blower was in my grandmother's garage for years barely used.
2.) When I found it the carburetor was missing and not sure what else.
3.) I have no idea if there were other issues aside from the missing carb which I can't find.

I need to know what type (model number, etc) of carb will work with this and how I should go about reconditioning this to use. 

Is it worth it?
Where should I start? 

I am very mechanically inclined and have no doubt I can fix this if pointed in the right direction and it's not totally shot...which is why I am here.

Please help.

Thanks,
B


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

Fixit602
There should be an engine number beginning with "143" that will cross reference with Tecumseh's models. I think you are reading the equipment model number. Look on the engine for a tag or plate that starts with 143".
Beyond that, is the machine worth fixing? Well, the picture shows it to be in decent cosmetic shape. If grandfather didn't use it much, it could be in decent mechanical shape as well. Possible he removed the carb to clean it and never got the job done. With the right engine model number it may be possible to find a suitable replacement carburetor. Then you will have to determine how linkages should be connected to the carb. If you look upon it a challenging project, you may find it very rewarding. You also may be able to find similar machines in use that will help you with identifying the parts you need....maybe even right here in the forum. Good luck. MH


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

MH,

Thank you for the heads up on the 'engine number' reference. I will look again, as I didn't see it last time. I think you are right about where the carb went. I think if I can get my hands on the carb and hook the linkage up correctly I can get this thing rolling. I'll get back to you with the engine number.

Thanks,
B



motorhead64 said:


> Fixit602
> There should be an engine number beginning with "143" that will cross reference with Tecumseh's models. I think you are reading the equipment model number. Look on the engine for a tag or plate that starts with 143".
> Beyond that, is the machine worth fixing? Well, the picture shows it to be in decent cosmetic shape. If grandfather didn't use it much, it could be in decent mechanical shape as well. Possible he removed the carb to clean it and never got the job done. With the right engine model number it may be possible to find a suitable replacement carburetor. Then you will have to determine how linkages should be connected to the carb. If you look upon it a challenging project, you may find it very rewarding. You also may be able to find similar machines in use that will help you with identifying the parts you need....maybe even right here in the forum. Good luck. MH


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## motorhead64 (Dec 15, 2013)

Can you post a few more photos from different angles. It will help in identifying what you have for a setup. MH


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

You can replace the engine for $100 at Harbor Freight if you choose to fix it and can't find a carb. You can also look for a used engine. It looks like your missing a tire chain too. The real question is if the whole machine is worth it. Looks like an older single stage and pretty small.


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

Shryp said:


> You can replace the engine for $100 at Harbor Freight if you choose to fix it and can't find a carb. You can also look for a used engine. It looks like your missing a tire chain too. The real question is if the whole machine is worth it. Looks like an older single stage and pretty small.


Shryp,

Which engine at Harbor Frieght will work? This info will come in handy if I decide to go that route. I don't need a large blower...this would work just fine for my needs. Annnd I think I can get another tire chain...right?

Thanks,
B


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

motorhead64 said:


> Can you post a few more photos from different angles. It will help in identifying what you have for a setup. MH


MH,

Yes. I will take and post a few more pics ASAP.

Thanks,
B


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Fixit602 said:


> Shryp,
> 
> Which engine at Harbor Frieght will work? This info will come in handy if I decide to go that route. I don't need a large blower...this would work just fine for my needs. Annnd I think I can get another tire chain...right?
> 
> ...


Any of the 6.5 HP 212 cc ones will work. Make sure you get the 49 state EPA one and not the California CARB one if you order online. If you have a store local then you will just get whatever they stock in your area. They are normally priced around $99 - $125 and you can easily find 25% off coupons online. They come with a 3/4" diameter crankshaft, so hopefully that is what is on your current engine. A simple search on this forum or online will give you lots of reviews of people using those Predator engines very happily.

With your engine numbers you should be able to look up a carb online and that will probably run you $30+ and you will still have the unknowns of the rest of the engine.

I think tire chains are sold in sets. You might be able to find 1 used one. You might be able to get away with just removing the other one as well. Those old hard rubber tires are not the best in the world and some people upgrade them to newer pneumatics, but try it out as is first.


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## scipper77 (Dec 4, 2013)

Shryp said:


> I think tire chains are sold in sets. You might be able to find 1 used one. You might be able to get away with just removing the other one as well. Those old hard rubber tires are not the best in the world and some people upgrade them to newer pneumatics, but try it out as is first.


It's not at all uncommon to only put the chain on the driven wheel if you only operate with the axle unlocked. That's how mine was when I found it on the curb. Now I run with the axle locked and no chain but that's not important.


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

Shryp said:


> Any of the 6.5 HP 212 cc ones will work. Make sure you get the 49 state EPA one and not the California CARB one if you order online. If you have a store local then you will just get whatever they stock in your area. They are normally priced around $99 - $125 and you can easily find 25% off coupons online. They come with a 3/4" diameter crankshaft, so hopefully that is what is on your current engine. A simple search on this forum or online will give you lots of reviews of people using those Predator engines very happily.


I am reviving this thread because I feel a chill in the air and this thing is still sitting in my garage. Not for long. Quick Question Shryp...can I assume those Predator Engines all have a horizontal drive shaft and those are compatible with this blower?


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Most are horizontal. There is 1 vertical lawn mower engine there too. The boxes are labeled if you are going to a store yourself. The stores I have been in have a display model on a shelf out of the box too. If you are ordering online they have pictures and descriptions.


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

Shryp said:


> Any of the 6.5 HP 212 cc ones will work. ...They come with a 3/4" diameter crankshaft, so hopefully that is what is on your current engine....


Unfortunately....the engine on this bad boy is a 1" drive shaft so I think I need an adapter. I read a thread (I think you posted a while back) that provided links on ebay to buy those adapters. I have another problem, however. I have no idea how to remove the remaining drive gear assembly from the old engine. See pics below. How do I remove that last piece on the shaft?


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

Fixit602 said:


> MH,
> 
> Thank you for the heads up on the 'engine number' reference. I will look again, as I didn't see it last time. I think you are right about where the carb went. I think if I can get my hands on the carb and hook the linkage up correctly I can get this thing rolling. I'll get back to you with the engine number.
> 
> ...


I can see the engine label right there in your picture. It's down on the lower left side as you're facing the engine. Isn't that the tag?


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

micah68kj said:


> I can see the engine label right there in your picture. It's doen on the lower left side as you're facing the engine. Isn't that the tag?


Yes. That is the tag and I was able to get the right engine Model number and whatnot, but I decided to swap it out with a predator engine. I removed the original engine and if you scroll down to my latest post I pasted pics of the last of the gear assembly I need to remove. I haven't tried to remove it other than to pull it by hand because I don't want to screw it up. 

How do I remove that last part on the drive shaft?


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## micah68kj (Oct 8, 2011)

I have no idea how to get that off of the shaft. Why are you swapping out the engine? Is it bad? Did you do a compression test on it? Getting spark?


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

micah68kj said:


> I have no idea how to get that off of the shaft. Why are you swapping out the engine? Is it bad? Did you do a compression test on it? Getting spark?


The original engine hasn't run for probably 20 years. The carb was removed and never replaced. It was my grandmothers and she passed away. My uncle can't find the carb. I don't have time to spend on trying to find a replacement carb to fit this, tinker around with it for week, etc when I can buy a replacement engine for $100 and be in business. I actually looked for a replacement carb and couldn't find the right one so I decided to move on. I just need to know how to get that thing off the shaft and re-install on the Predator 3/4" shaft.


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## dbert (Aug 25, 2013)

Pictures are kind of small.
Appears to be a centrifugal clutch.
example

If there are no other set-screws, snap rings etc, Id say it just needs to be pulled off the shaft at this point. 
I wouldnt want to discourage you from a repower, but if your reasons are not having time tinkering with a replacement carb...this will have it's own challenges. Just saying.
It's an interesting looking blower. To have that lateral axis "bobcat" style impeller on a Craftsman.

Edit: by saying "just pulled off" I didnt mean some penetrating oil, prying and use of a puller tool wouldn't possibly be necessary.

Edit 2. I posted ebay links to new clutches just for your consideration. If you have to buy an adapter for a 1 inch to 3/4 shaft, you might see if there is a new 3/4 shaft clutch/sprocket that will work.


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Yea, if there are no set screws then the shaft is probably stepped and it is seated against the step and held on by the bolt that went through the end. Might need a 2 or 3 jaw puller and pup it right off. Just be careful not to bend it.

The idea of just getting a new clutch is a good one too. Considering it is real close to the same price as the adapter.

Need something like this with 2 or 3 jaws. With your type of shaft you can skip the bolt down the middle though.


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Are those fingers attached to the clutch hub removeable? There may be a set screw underneath one or both of them.


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## HCBPH (Mar 8, 2011)

*Clutch*

You're going to have to look for a probable setscrew on the clutch to get it off. It looks like a variation of a speed clutch used on motor bikes and gocarts. I had one a long time ago and the hub had a setscrew that held that onto the engine. I suspect yours is much the same.


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

Shryp said:


> Yea, if there are no set screws then the shaft is probably stepped and it is seated against the step and held on by the bolt that went through the end. Might need a 2 or 3 jaw puller and pup it right off. Just be careful not to bend it.
> 
> The idea of just getting a new clutch is a good one too. Considering it is real close to the same price as the adapter.
> 
> Need something like this with 2 or 3 jaws. With your type of shaft you can skip the bolt down the middle though.


Thanks again Shryp and all of you guys! I hope you all had a fantastic Holiday and hope you have a great New Year!

I went out and bought a 3 jawed puller and I'm going to try it on Wednesday when I'm off work. That said I would also like to search for a new clutch, but I have no idea where to look for one and how to make sure it will work with the new Predator Motor and the existing chain. Are there specs I need to look for? I know the Predator shaft is 3/4". 

Any suggestions? 

BTW....thanks for holding my hand like a little child on this one LOL!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Is there enough room between the engine and the clutch to see the shaft coming out of the engine? Can you fit a caliper in there to measure if the shaft is 1" OR 3/4"? I'm thinking (uh-oh) that clutch shaft is a sleeve that fits over a 3/4" keyed engine shaft and is held on with the bolt you removed. Have you tried to "carefully" pry the clutch assembly away from the engine block? If your going to try the puller, I "think" you will have to reinstall the bolt partially back into the shaft and push off of that or you will actually be crushing the clutch against itself.

Anyone else think this is a possibility or I'm way off track ????? 

You never did post your engine numbers which should be stamped on top of the recoil shroud just in front of the spark plug. If we know what engine you have, we may be able to find what size crankshaft you really have and know how to advise removal of the clutch without damaging it.


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

Grunt said:


> Is there enough room between the engine and the clutch to see the shaft coming out of the engine? Can you fit a caliper in there to measure if the shaft is 1" OR 3/4"? I'm thinking (uh-oh) that clutch shaft is a sleeve that fits over a 3/4" keyed engine shaft and is held on with the bolt you removed. Have you tried to "carefully" pry the clutch assembly away from the engine block? If your going to try the puller, I "think" you will have to reinstall the bolt partially back into the shaft and push off of that or you will actually be crushing the clutch against itself.
> 
> Anyone else think this is a possibility or I'm way off track ?????
> 
> You never did post your engine numbers which should be stamped on top of the recoil shroud just in front of the spark plug. If we know what engine you have, we may be able to find what size crankshaft you really have and know how to advise removal of the clutch without damaging it.


Engine Numbers:









This is on the base and it reads: Model # 536 90500GD2










This reads: Model # 143 625012










You have a great point about the possibility of the exposed shaft actually being a sleeve over a smaller drive shaft. I was going to try to pull it off today, but I have a three jawed puller and this will need a two jawed puller instead so I have to go to Harbor Freight tomorrow. 

Maybe someone will be able to tell me what I'm working with given the Model numbers above. 

Thank you all for all of your help so far. If I ever get this cranked up I'll do a back flip into a snow pile!


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## Grunt (Nov 11, 2013)

Hello Fixit. Here is some information concerning your motor. As I suspected, the crankshaft is stepped and I am now 99% certain that the clutch is a sleeve that fits over the crankshaft. As I guessed, you will have to put a sacrificial bolt into the crankshaft threads and push against it with the puller. I would try a few pry bars (gently) to see if the sleeve will move before using a puller. I hope this helps.

Tecumseh Crankshaft 33136- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-H50-Crankshaft-W-Conn-Rod-33136-31295C-/131100700667#ht_754wt_1124
Sears to Tecumseh Number Conversion-
Sears 143.625012 is a Tecumseh H50-65341J engine (use the Tecumseh number when looking up part numbers)
Engine Service Manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## 43128 (Feb 14, 2014)

think i found your missing tire chain in picture #3


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

Grunt said:


> Hello Fixit. Here is some information concerning your motor. As I suspected, the crankshaft is stepped and I am now 99% certain that the clutch is a sleeve that fits over the crankshaft. As I guessed, you will have to put a sacrificial bolt into the crankshaft threads and push against it with the puller. I would try a few pry bars (gently) to see if the sleeve will move before using a puller. I hope this helps.


So a two jawed puller took this thing right off. The drive shaft wasn't stepped as you can see in the images below. That said, it looks like I simply need a 3/4" to 1" adapter and I'll be in business.


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## Fixit602 (Feb 10, 2014)

OK...now that I got the clutch assembly off of the old drive shaft I have to fit it out on the drive shaft on the Predator: 6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine EPA

The Tecumseh shaft where the clutch was installed is 1" X 1 5/8" and the Predator shaft is 3/4" X 2.43"

First off...will the shaft length be an issue?
Secondly...which adapter should I buy to fit the old clutch to the Predator Motor? Please see listings below...
3/4 shaft adapter | eBay

Thank you again for your help!!


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## Shryp (Jan 1, 2011)

Adapter - never used one, I would just go for whatever is cheapest.

Length - I have never had an issue, but too long is always better than too short. Easier to cut it down than it is to make it longer. I have heard of at least one person who drilled a hole in the belt cover and just let it hang out. The only issue with cutting it will be if you need the bolt in the end as you might cut all of the threads off. If you use set screws that is a non issue. Best idea for cutting I saw was run the engine while cutting it with an angle grinder. Seems like you would get a nice straight cut that way.


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## Jay3875 (Feb 9, 2021)

I can not find the spark plug wire where does the wire connect to and come from?


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Jay3875 said:


> I can not find the spark plug wire where does the wire connect to and come from?


You know this thread is many years old.
Are you kidding?
HUH? what machine?
No offense but your question worded that way screams SPAMMER.
Though you really didn't really spam anything yet.


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## tabora (Mar 1, 2017)

Big Ed said:


> your question worded that way screams SPAMMER.


Or Troll...


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## Jay3875 (Feb 9, 2021)

It's an old craftsman snow blower I just found it


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## Big Ed (Feb 10, 2013)

Jay3875 said:


> It's an old craftsman snow blower I just found it


List the model number.
Spark plug is in the picture, on top, in the picture the plug wire is attached.
This is on my "old" Craftsman.


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## Jay3875 (Feb 9, 2021)

It is 536-90500gd2


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