# Troy Bilt 2410 Wheel Removal - Rusted



## gibbywmu

Hi All,


Just finishing up a project on my 2410. Got all the maintenance done from the previous owner. Last thing I need to do that I can't, is get off these wheels so I can grease the shafts. If a tire goes flat I'm screwed! The wheels must be rusted on the shaft and I can't get them to budge. Tried heating the axle with a propane torch, maybe couldn't get it hot enough? Sprayed penetrating oil down there as well.


Any other recommendations on getting these fussy wheels off the axle?


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## micah68kj

Very doubtful propane will do it. At very minimum MAPP gas and better yet find someone with oxy-acetlyne torch. Once off, sand inside hub and the axle shaft. Apply generous coat of never Seize or lithium grease. While we're on this subject remember to grease auger shafts. 
I hope this helps.
*Be sure to confine the heat to just the wheel hub and not the axle. *


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## gibbywmu

Guess I better find someone with MAPP gas and/or an acetylene torch! I've read some other forums that suggest the use of a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone works pretty well as a penetrating oil. I need to flip this up on end and let that soak into the hub for a day or so...............but gonna wait till it warms up a bit. Too darn cold to be working in an unheated garage right now!


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## micah68kj

Did you youtube this? Maybe something on there.


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## gibbywmu

I did You Tube, couldn't find anything specific to my particular wheel, but the principle is the same. I just think mine is so rusted on there I'm going to have a **** of a time trying to get it off.........


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## crazzywolfie

are you sure they are rusted? i know those ones are sometimes a pain to get off. sometimes you can wiggle them. if you have an air chisel they sometimes work to knock wheels loose. not like you really have to get them too far before they will start spinning freely.


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## JLawrence08648

I would not use a torch and I have one.

I made a wheel puller just for this. I will post pictures over the next few days.


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## gibbywmu

Thanks JLawrence! I don't have any pullers, so I'm curious if that would work too. I was going to try MAPP gas as someone else suggested. I've been using the propane just doesn't seem to be getting it hot enough to break it off the axle. I'm pretty sure its rusted. There doesn't look like there is anything else holding it on. I already removed the bolt and washer, that seems to be it. See attached parts diagram.


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## crazzywolfie

sometimes the require some wiggling and pulling. if you got a rubber hammer you might be able to knock the rim loose or could try a block of wood and hammer. that rim doesn't look like it is rusted on there too bad if it is. those ones can just be a slight pain because of the design.


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## JLawrence08648

Make a mix of synthetic oil, automatic transmission fluid, and alcohol in a squirt bottle. Tilt the snowblower on it's side, not much, just slightly, you only need a 2x4 or preferably a 6x6, you can do a complete tilt, look for exiting gas or oil, squirt some mix down the axle, notice when it's coming out the other side, rotate the wheel, squirt some more; then flip the snowblower to the other side and do the same. This will be a precursor to removal. When the wheel is removed, wire brush, then sand the axle, coat with synthetic grease or Never-Seize. You'll never have to touch it again.


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## gibbywmu

Jlawrence,


Are you suggesting I hit it with a 2x4 on the back side of the rim to knock it off the axle? Or are you suggesting I hit it from the front side?


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## HCBPH

It doesn't look to be rusted on, rather the end of the hub looks to be bent over due to hammering on it. I can give you another idea but it would requiring drilling a couple of holes through the hub and using a gear puller.


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## gibbywmu

Hmmmm..........ok I'm open to any suggestions. The other side looks exactly the same. I honestly don't think its bent over, but I think this is the shape of the axle at the end. Has sort of that square shape........


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## HCBPH

Here's the short list. First you need something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/Bearing-Separator-and-Puller-Set-62593.html

This will only work if there is enough space behind the hub that the unit can be assembled behind the hub and not grab the axel.
You'll need a couple of pieces of threaded rod and nuts to go along with it in place of the supplied threaded connectors. They will work but you'll need to drill much bigger holes.
Figure the spread on the threaded fittings on the puller, based off the centerline of the unit once it's fit to the hub.
Next is the part most don't like to do: drill 2 holes through the rim portion of the wheel. The holes need to line up with the puller portion of the puller behind the hub. Thread the 2 pieces of threaded rod through the holes into the puller. Next comes the upper portion along with the center screw. Nuts on the threaded rod and screw down the center 'ram' screw on the center of the axel.

At this point you can use it just like a gear puller. Turn the ram screw down to tighten it up and put pressure against the hub vs the axel. You can soak it with something like PB Blaster, use heat or use a heavy hammer against the end of the ram screw to try and shock it loose.

I've done this with auger pulleys before but never a hub. It can work in many/most cases and by the use of the holes it's not likely you'll bend the rims trying to get them off.

Hope that helps.


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## Cubby_Cadet007

You could try to hammer in a wooden wedge between the wheel and side of the machine.

If you search Youtube you can find videos on wheel removal when using repairing flat on a snowblower like this one for example:


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## gibbywmu

HCBPH,


Thanks for providing a good description of what I need to do.........but is there a video on You Tube anywhere of showing exactly how to do this? I was hoping to buy a puller for less than $50 to get this job done. Don't any of the Autoparts stores have pullers that I could either rent or buy that would do the job? The video in the previous post isn't helpful. I don't have a flat tire, so it doesn't go into any detail about getting seized wheels off.


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## HCBPH

Check this out for the basic idea: 



Use the gear puller I noted, it does require getting one part of the gear puller between the pulley and auger housing. 2 holes through the rim, 2 pieces of threaded rod and the upper portion of the puller bolted down. Then it's a matter of penetrant, possible heat along with tightening it up and maybe a little hammering on it.

It might work to use nuts on the inside of the hub, then again I have not tried that so I don't know if it could bend the rims or not.

One more thing. Once it's off, clean it up well and use lots of anti-seize on the shaft to keep it free in the future.


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## Shaw351

Gibbywmu..... 

Where u located ?? Local member possibly nearby can help you. 

That style hub Cannot be rotated due to the machined "D" end of the axle, must be pulled straight off. 

Heat and a puller is going to remove those rims, if that is an actual pix of your machine they don't look too badly rusted. 

Drilling two holes and a puller as suggested by HCBPH is what I've done in the past along with heat. 

That type of puller is a harmonic balancer puller, available from auto stores or harbor freight. 

Please keep us posted on progress, good luck !!


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## Jackmels

I just had the same problem trying to get the wheels off a 2410 to replace the bearings. Since I had a spare axle, I wound up cutting the axle, and pressing them out. A New axle is around 35 bucks.


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## rod330

I've struggled with a number of stuck wheels too. All were frozen with rust but I also think the lynch pin can potentially peen the axle hole after repeated forward/reverse motions on older machines.

I start by draining the fuel tank and tipping the blower into the service position. I apply PB-Blaster or Kano Kroil into the lynch pin hole and both sides of the axle near the neck of the wheel. Tap the end of the axle with a hammer to potentially break it free and repeat this process several times. Be patient and try letting the penetrating oil soak overnight. There's hope if you can wiggle it free just a little bit. Continue by aggressively turning the wheel forward and backward while applying more PB-Blaster or Kroil. 

Step two is to wedge a 1' to 2' block of wood behind the wheel and strike it with a 3 or 4 pound hammer. Take a couple of swings and then rotate the wheel so you're pounding on the opposite side. This has worked a couple of times but the success rate is not high.

If it still won't budge, I use my MAP torch to heat both sides of the axle and the neck of the wheel Naturally, be very cautious because you don't want to start a fire with any residual fuel or oils. Add more penetrating oil, whack the axle end and continue to aggressively turn the wheel back and forth. I've also had some luck using a 3 or 4 pound hammer to hit the opposite side of the axle (on the other side of the machine). 

I've only had two wheels that I couldn't get off so I'm inclined to try the wheel puller method HCBPH described when this happens again.


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## gibbywmu

Thanks for helping and providing feedback everyone! I'm going to buy this one I found at Harbor Freight for $15. Looks like exactly what I need according to this another video I saw:

https://www.harborfreight.com/Bolt-Type-Wheel-Puller-Set-62620.html

Here is the video where the guy used what appeared to be a harmonic balancer puller - 




Shaw351.......I'm located in Brighton MI. Where is the member at that you're referring to?


I'm going to run to the hardware store soon. I need some ATF so I can mix with the Acetone I already have. I was reading that is a great homemade penetrating oil solution. I'll let them soak in 1 of the wheels overnight then try the rest tomorrow. I'll also buy the HF harmonic balancer and use that if I need to. Hopefully this will work!


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## Kiss4aFrog

When you use that puller remember to put the bolt in the end of the axle shaft first so you're not grinding that center screw of the puller into the top threads in the axle. You might even want to get a bit shorter bolt at a store to use under the puller depending on the depth of that hole. If you want to get crazy you can even take that extra bolt and grind or drill a little concave area for the point of the puller to center on. Less chance of it slipping off as you're cranking down on it. I don't remember having an issue with my 2410 on the wheels, I was lucky. I sure greased up the wheel hole and axle shaft before I buttoned it back up after doing some work on it though.

.


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## gibbywmu

Kiss,


That's a great point....thanks for reminding me to put that bolt back in the axle shaft hole.....that definitely could cause some damage if I didn't! How far is it necessary to thread down to prevent any damage? I've got plenty of anti seize that I can throw on when I clean it up. Got an angle grinder as well. I'll keep you posted in the next couple of days. Will let it soak for 24hrs with that 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone, then try and heat it up with MAPP/Pro to see if I can break it free. If I can't, I'll use the puller as the last resort. Might need to grab some extra bolts, but it looks like the HF kit had quite a few options.


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## Shaw351

I didn't have a particular person in mind, but somebody local to you might be reading the posts and are available to help you.

If you were in Brighton..... MASSACHUSETTS....... I could of absolutely helped you !!

I would bottom out the bolt in the axle so that all the force is put on to axle itself rather than the threads. Use a sacrificial bolt, center punch or drill a center hole in the bolt to keep the puller tip from wandering.


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## gibbywmu

Thanks Shaw! Yes, unfortunately not in Brighton MA . Haha! I'll keep everyone posted. I picked up the puller last night from HF. Trying to let some 50/50 Acetone/ATF get into the axle, but it doesn't look like its able to penetrating between the axle and the hub. Puller is probably going to be the best. Tonight or tomorrow I'll heat it up as best I can with MAPP (that's the best I have, no access to acetylene) while using the puller, and keep everyone posted.


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## Shaw351

Try alternating some heat on the hub and then cooling it down with your penetrating solution, several times...

The heat / expansion and then the cooling / contraction will help draw the mixture into the joint. May smoke a little bit but it works. Take your time.... good luck with your quest !!


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## gibbywmu

Ok everyone, job is COMPLETE! Thanks for the help of everyone that's provided feedback. If it wasn't for forums like this, we'd all be struggling. Really appreciate it! I attached some pics of the 1st tire I removed. 2nd tire was similar, but a bit tougher to get off. I tried leaving that 50/50 mix of Acetone/ATF on the axle overnight, but it wasn't penetrating between the axle and the hub at all, even with the snowblower tipped on its side. So, since I had the puller from HF, I drilled 2 holes in the rim (3/8), so that I could get 2 of those long bolts the puller kit came with through........just had to run to the hardware store and grab some nuts. Then I used a sacrificial bolt that was the same thread size as the original that holds the tires on, which I drilled the top out a bit so the puller head wouldn't wander. Afterwards, I let some air out of the tires just in case............then I heated the hub area up for a few minutes with the MAPP/Pro, then attached the puller and started cranking down. The tire started coming off as soon as I was cranking, and in between I did spray some penetrating oil in there just to help. I got within an inch or so off getting it off completely, but the puller head couldn't reach the bolt it was pushing on anymore..................so at that point I took the puller off, and just beat the back of the rim with a 2x4 and hammer and it eventually popped off . Yeah!! Did the same thing to the other side and it worked great. Once they were off, I use my angle grinder to clean them up nice, then coated with anti seize. They actually weren't even really rusted. Its amazing that small amount keeps those tires seized on there! Hardly any clearance between the hub and the axle.........so no wonder all it takes a little bit of rust to seize them up. I also cleaned out the inside of the hub with some tube brushes to get the residual rust out.


I'm so glad this is all finished. It's been a 2 week venture trying to figure out how I was going to do this. Now I'm all set for next winter, and in case these tires ever dry rot (which they shouldn't, I keep it in a garage) I won't be screwed getting them off the axles! Now I have nothing left to do on this $150 prize I picked up!


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## HCBPH

Congrats on getting them off. Know you'll do the right thing so it won't happen again.


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## Kiss4aFrog

gibbywmu said:


> Kiss,
> 
> 
> That's a great point....thanks for reminding me to put that bolt back in the axle shaft hole.....that definitely could cause some damage if I didn't! How far is it necessary to thread down to prevent any damage? I've got plenty of anti seize that I can throw on when I clean it up. Got an angle grinder as well. I'll keep you posted in the next couple of days. Will let it soak for 24hrs with that 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone, then try and heat it up with MAPP/Pro to see if I can break it free. If I can't, I'll use the puller as the last resort. Might need to grab some extra bolts, but it looks like the HF kit had quite a few options.


Don't ask me how I know to warn others of this :sad2:

So much work for what should just slide off. congratulations for having the patience to get it off without cutting, grinding or burning it beyond recognition :grin: And it's such a nice clean looking machine I was kind of expecting it to be a more well used one with a wheel stuck as solidly as this has been.

.


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## Kiss4aFrog

I looked a little closer at the photos and now would be a good time to touch up the paint on the back of that bucket and if those skids are getting a little thin there are tons of options for some replacements before they wear through. I opted for a set of stock Ariens ones since I needed some right then and Home Depot had them on hand. Much thicker, two sided and a smoother ramp angle for gaps in pavement/concrete. 


.


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## Fat City

Deflate Tire before heating hub ! I'd drill holes in wheel, and use a steering wheel puller, similar to removing a lawn tractor rear wheel . My favorite lube is candle wax, warm the hub up, apply candle wax, wax will follow heat, heat opposite side until wax and rust come out . Propane makes plenty of heat, nothing turns red hot, no need for Mapp or acetylene . Empty Fuel Tank before aggressive tilting .


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## SimplicitySolid22

gibbywmu said:


> Ok everyone, job is COMPLETE! Thanks for the help of everyone that's provided feedback. If it wasn't for forums like this, we'd all be struggling. Really appreciate it! I attached some pics of the 1st tire I removed. 2nd tire was similar, but a bit tougher to get off. I tried leaving that 50/50 mix of Acetone/ATF on the axle overnight, but it wasn't penetrating between the axle and the hub at all, even with the snowblower tipped on its side. So, since I had the puller from HF, I drilled 2 holes in the rim (3/8), so that I could get 2 of those long bolts the puller kit came with through........just had to run to the hardware store and grab some nuts. Then I used a sacrificial bolt that was the same thread size as the original that holds the tires on, which I drilled the top out a bit so the puller head wouldn't wander. Afterwards, I let some air out of the tires just in case............then I heated the hub area up for a few minutes with the MAPP/Pro, then attached the puller and started cranking down. The tire started coming off as soon as I was cranking, and in between I did spray some penetrating oil in there just to help. I got within an inch or so off getting it off completely, but the puller head couldn't reach the bolt it was pushing on anymore..................so at that point I took the puller off, and just beat the back of the rim with a 2x4 and hammer and it eventually popped off . Yeah!! Did the same thing to the other side and it worked great. Once they were off, I use my angle grinder to clean them up nice, then coated with anti seize. They actually weren't even really rusted. Its amazing that small amount keeps those tires seized on there! Hardly any clearance between the hub and the axle.........so no wonder all it takes a little bit of rust to seize them up. I also cleaned out the inside of the hub with some tube brushes to get the residual rust out.
> 
> 
> I'm so glad this is all finished. It's been a 2 week venture trying to figure out how I was going to do this. Now I'm all set for next winter, and in case these tires ever dry rot (which they shouldn't, I keep it in a garage) I won't be screwed getting them off the axles! Now I have nothing left to do on this $150 prize I picked up!



Hard work well rewarded!!!! Congrats and enjoy the 2410!!!!


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## gibbywmu

Kiss,

Yes, my spring project is to disassemble the bucket, impeller, and auger so that I can grind off the old paint that still there, then throw some new on. I bought 2 cans of the Troy Bilt Red Krylon at HD a few weeks ago. As for the skid shoes, mine are brand new. Replaced the old rusty ones that were on there. These have only been used 1 time. Got those for around $9 on Amazon.


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## ST1100A

I used to beat on the axle with a large punch bar while prying off the wheel with a long 2x4 piece of wood as a pry bar for the wheel. The shock from the hammer blows, like when removing a tapered joint like a tie rod end, sometimes breaks it loose. I got many wheels off that way without using and heat or penetrating oil and no damage to anything. Just be careful not to mushroom the end of the axle. My punch bar is tapered that comes to a bit of a point.


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