# HS1132TA (track) No Power to Impeller



## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

What is broken when:

The sheer pins are fine.
Both augers turn the auger axle.
The auger axle turns the transmission freely.
The transmission turns the impeller freely.

But there is no power to the impeller.

Track drive is fine both in forward and in reverse.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

E350, so when you engage the auger lever, both right and left augers are rotating but the impeller is not spinning??

Keep your body parts away from the front while the engine is running!!!! If the above is true, the shear bolt on the impeller shaft is broken.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

When I engage the handlebar auger control lever nothing spins.
And the usual "engagement squawk" is less pronounced.


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

There is a shear pin for the impeller. Did you check that? It is on the impeller shaft.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

Oh , ok, either the auger housing belt is broken , come off, or not being tighened enough. Does the control lever feel under tension when you engage it?? Have you been into the drive belt area recently?? Is it fair to say no power to the impeller or the augers? when you engage the lever


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Brilliant. I locked everything up so I won't be able to check until tonight.
Is there a spec for that shear pin?

Engine runs fine.
Ground drive runs fine.
No power to the impeller or to auger transmission or to augers when auger control lever is engaged.


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

If you can answer my last post we can tell if you need the shear pin or not?


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Engine runs fine.
Ground drive runs fine.
No power to the impeller or to auger transmission or to augers when auger control lever is engaged.

Oh and as stated previously, when I turn the augers by hand, the impeller also turns.
So, would that rule out a broken impeller shear pin?


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

I suspect you have a belt problem or a tensioning problem with the auger belt (front one)

Assuming this blower has a manual chute crank, pull the plastic cover off that the chute crank shaft is above and you can see the belt i am talking about.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

contender that makes sense.
I usually buy the manual for my equipment. Hopefully I can find it.
But if anyone has the part number for that belt, I would appreciate it.

I will be away from the computer for 3 hours.

Thank you to all.

And Merry Christmas!


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

If you require the belt... Honda # 22432-V03-000


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

If you take the cover off the top as i'm suggesting, you should be able to see what engages and what doesn't..
Post your location if you haven't already, you could have a forum member around the corner.....


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## contender (Jan 18, 2018)

You didn't mention hitting anything, but if you did you could have broken 2 bolts on the impeller shaft and that would explain your symptoms.....


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

E350 said:


> contender that makes sense.
> I usually buy the manual for my equipment. Hopefully I can find it.
> But if anyone has the part number for that belt, I would appreciate it.
> 
> ...


the auger belt is a SB35 for the 1132.
However , I am assuming you removed the belt cover to inspect 1.belt 2, cable connection( check other end under handle also ) 3. spring......any of which could be the problem.

your original post was a little confusing to me since i think ( correct if wrong ) that yousaid the augers were turning if handle was down .If not probably 1-2-3 listed above.

if they do turn with auger handle down but not the impeller , then probably broken impeller shear pin.It is a specialspecific step pin about $4-6 at dealer .

Youre in Lake Tahoe area as I recall?? you should come visit if ever in Truckee area.I'll give you the grand tour and some free shear pins buddy.


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

E350 said:


> What is broken when:
> 
> The sheer pins are fine.
> Both augers turn the auger axle.
> ...


This sounds like something the Riddler would say to Batman. Remember those old Batman shows on TV back in the 80's?

Batman says *it is "impeller shear pin"!!!*
Robin ask, _*but Batman there are TWO impeller shear pins! Which one is broken?*_
Batman replied, _*right you are, but there's a way to know which is one is broken.*_
Robin ask, _*how?*_
Batman replied, *i*_*f you turn the auger and the impeller doesn't move, the shear pin closest to the auger gearbox is broken.*_
Robin being the sprightly youngins enthusiastically jumps in and says, _*and if impeller moves, then the shear pin closest to the impeller is broken!*_
Batman says, *you state the obvious, but right you are, you earn the right to wear your underwear on the outside.*
Robin asks, *but why do you have your underwear on the outside?*
Batman replied, *because I'm rich, have lots of gadgets, cool cars, and a cave.*

Have a good evening.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

aa335 said:


> This sounds like something the Riddler would say to Batman. Remember those old Batman shows on TV back in the 80's?
> 
> Batman says *it is "impeller shear pin"!!!*
> Robin ask, _*but Batman there are TWO impeller shear pins! Which one is broken?*_
> ...


sir, have you been drinking or under the influence of a controlled substance????


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

Just had a cup of Irish coffee.


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

E350 said:


> Oh and as stated previously, when I turn the augers by hand, the impeller also turns.
> So, would that rule out a broken impeller shear pin?


Common logic would say so. However, that is not the case. Honda does funny things that can mislead. Actually, this design is more robust, but sometimes can problematic when there is corrosion welding.

There's a pulley #4 behind the blower housing with a shaft that goes through the impeller shaft. Those two shafts are coupled together with the impeller shear pin.











Pulley #4 is coupled with impeller #3 by impeller shear pin#5.










and finally bolt #14 is coupled to the auger transmission input shaft#6.










This is probably more info than you want to digest. In short, check on bolt #14 and impeller shear bolt #5. Make sure you disconnect spark plug wire before probing in the auger housing. Just for safety reasons.

I hope that helps you out. You can check out those diagrams and order your parts from boats.net.

Honda Snowblower @boats.net


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

E350 said:


> When I engage the handlebar auger control lever nothing spins.
> And the usual "engagement squawk" is less pronounced.


If your auger lever feels soft at the end of its travel, I would suspect a broken belt. IF it is firm, then the belt is fine.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

It sounds like the black shear bolt broke that is in the impeller shaft. The black bolt is the longer shear bolt, the silver bolts are shorter and are attached to the augers.
It is part #5 on the diagram. Once that breaks, nothing will spin but you will hear the belt engage when you squeeze the lever to engage the auger.
You can spin them freely by hand but the engine wont spin them.
The same thing happened to me today, and it was the #5 bolt, the longer black shear bolt in the impeller to transmission shaft.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

I just went out to check and there is a broken black bolt which uses a 14mm hex socket on top of the impeller housing next to the chute.
I am going to take the chute off and look in better, but at this point, can anybody direct me as to what the proper disassembly process is?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

E350 said:


> I just went out to check and there is a broken black bolt which uses a 14mm hex socket on top of the impeller housing next to the chute.
> I am going to take the chute off and look in better, but at this point, can anybody direct me as to what the proper disassembly process is?


thats the impeller shear pin. if part is still in then lubricate and punch it out. new shear is about $6. 

have fun.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

orangputeh said:


> thats the impeller shear pin. if part is still in then lubricate and punch it out. new shear is about $6.
> 
> have fun.


What do I take off to get to it?


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

E350 said:


> What do I take off to get to it?


well you said you were taking off chute. that should give you a good angle with a long punch or similar tool to punch out reminder of pin. soak it with penetrating oil first.

in some cases you may have to heat it. but most times with patience it will come out. is the impeller turning ? if so just line up hole with what's left of pin and punch out. sometimes i have used a stubby phillips screwdriver.

thats why i said have fun. sometimes easy , sometimes not.

in extreme cases you would have to remove augers which is easy. jsut remove hardware bolt that connects impeller toauger gearbox and 4 bolts on each side of housing and pull out.

that way you'll hhave more room towork with. but try the easier methods first. going from uptop after removing chute.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

I see now where the black impeller shaft shear pin hole is.
And you are correct, it is "sheared" off with part of the shear pin lodged in the hole.
I am going to try a stubby screw driver.

I see that my belts are worn.

How to I replace the ground drive belt and the auger belt?

I took the light off and the belt housing off and I see that there is access somewhat from below.

Can I replace belts without removing the auger housing?

@contender @orangputeh @aa335

Edit: I am taking the augers off. The shaft has spun and the holes don't line up.

_"Slow is smooth. And smooth is fast."_


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

I've replaced my belts over the summer. I am relatively new at doing this so I don't think I could replace both belts without splitting the front end. I think someone mentioned that one of the belt can be replaced, but not both.

Also, I was advised while I have it apart, it would be wise to replace the impeller and auger bearing as well. Turns out that impeller bearing was squeaking and needed attention. 

It may take a day or two to do if you're new to this.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

Well I remain continually impressed by Honda design.

The augers with the transmission attached and the impeller shaft and impeller attached to that come out easily as a unit.

I removed the driver side bearing bolt from the end of the auger shaft, but did not remove the auger bolt on the passenger's side because I was afraid that it might be left hand thread, just gently pried it past the auger housing.

Then it was easy peasey to drift out the sheared part of the shear bolt from the shaft.

I will pick up the shear bolt and nut (I found the black oxide washer in the snow) and the drive belt and impeller belt tomorrow.

If anybody has any thoughts on how to replace the bolts, I would greatly appreciate it.


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## orangputeh (Nov 24, 2016)

E350 said:


> Well I remain continually impressed by Honda design.
> 
> The augers with the transmission attached and the impeller shaft and impeller attached to that come out easily as a unit.
> 
> ...


you mean belts? if so you have to remove bucket . not too hard. plus @aa335 had some good advice on changing the impeller bearing and maybe auger side bearings.I always change the impeller bearing ( 6004 ) and inspect the side bearings ( 6203 ). usually the side dont need to be replaced. check the race for play. you can also pick off the side rubber covering and check the grease. you can repack with grease. 

there is a pretty good video on youtube. type in changing belts on honda snowblower.there is one on the honda hs55 which is practically the same as your Honda . same steps.


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## ST1100A (Feb 7, 2015)

E350 said:


> I just went out to check and there is a broken black bolt which uses a 14mm hex socket on top of the impeller housing next to the chute.
> I am going to take the chute off and look in better, but at this point, can anybody direct me as to what the proper disassembly process is?


Nice thing with the Honda is you do not have to take anything off to replace the black shear bolt, you have plenty of room to get your hands and a small screw driver as a punch in there to get the stud out.
Most of the time all you have to do is line up the holes in the impeller and shaft, then put the new bolt in, it will usually push the broken piece out of the shaft without a problem just with hand pressure.
The one I replaced recently came right out after being used commercially every year for 27 years without ever being removed since new.
Honda's old saying was "We make it simple". Yes, simple to repair.


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## E350 (Apr 21, 2015)

I buttoned up the Honda HS1132TA today, replacing both the drive and the auger belts, the impeller bearing, and the black impeller sheer bolt.

Upon disassembly I noticed that the auger belt was torn. The drive belt looked good but I replaced it anyway.

Disassembly includes:

Remove the light bracket and unclip the light housing wire plug and set aside.
Remove four bolts on the plastic belt cover (two of the four bolts hold the light bracket).
Remove chute direction hand crank at chute base.
Remove chute base, leave chute vertical deflector cable attached and lay over top of engine.
Remove at least one of the two auger axle bearing bolts. Removing both will make removing the auger axle easier, removing only one bolt requires a gentle prying to remove the auger axle.
Remove two bolts on the bracket from auger housing to impeller/auger differential.
If you haven't already broken and pushed out your black impeller shaft sheer bolt, then remove it now.
Remove auger and impeller as a unit.
Remove 10 bolts to the auger housing. To do this you will need a 12mm socket with a 6" wobble extension AND a 12mm Gear Wrench (best if it is a long handle) open/closed end wrench.
Three 10mm bearing bolts will be exposed. Remove those.
Pull auger housing (i.e., "bucket") off of machine. (I did this all in the driveway on blown and then trampled snow with the machine on leaned back on its handles.)
There are then two belt protectors which need to be loosened to remove the belts. Note where the bolts were so you re-tighten them in the same place.
Replace the impeller bearing.
Replace the belts.
Reassemble in reverse.

Note one of the things I thought was interesting was that the impeller sheer bolt also serves to prevent the impeller belt pulley from moving rearward -- i.e., that sheer bolt centers the impeller pulley.
I consider that to be pure genius simple design.

It now runs great.


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## aa335 (Jan 21, 2020)

E350 said:


> Note one of the things I thought was interesting was that the impeller sheer bolt also serves to prevent the impeller belt pulley form moving rearward -- i.e., that sheer bolt centers the impeller pulley.
> I consider that to be pure genius simple design.
> 
> It now runs great.


I replaced bearings and belts over the summer as well for the first time in 9 years. My snowblower didn't have a lot of hours on it and I stored it in the garage towards in the inside walls at all times. It was getting noisier so I thought should be looking at doing some maintenance. I didn't want anything to be failing in the winter when I need the snowblower to be working. When I was working on it, I did learn to appreciate how smartly designed the snowblower is. It also feels pretty good to be able to do work on my own snowblower without sending it to a shop and wait wait wait.


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