# Ariens ST824 - First Blower?



## DanOpi (Jan 15, 2020)

Hey Guys,

Still hunting for my first used snowblower and came across, what looks to be, a nice Ariens ST824.

They were asking for $425 and I came in at $300. They countered with $350.

It is a 924082, Serial #043120.

Only used a handful of times before moving to Florida. Both recoil and electric start are functioning.

Is this worth it for $350? Easy to maintain and learn about engines?

Thanks for any input!


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

DanOpi said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Still hunting for my first used snowblower and came across, what looks to be, a nice Ariens ST824.
> 
> ...




these are great blowers and it looks in great shape. just FYI the blower is from the 1980's so used a handful of times seems like BS lol


if you can get if for around $300 that seems like a fair deal.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

Snowbelt_subie said:


> DanOpi said:
> 
> 
> > Hey Guys,
> ...


According to Scott's site, the 924082 were made from '94 - '96. If the machine really is as clean as it looks that pic I'd have no problem paying $350 for it.


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## Oneacer (Jan 3, 2011)

In my opinion, that blower looks well taken care of. If indeed that runs fine, and works properly, I would say 350.00 is certainly a fair price.


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

the 082 is slightly different from the 050 but much newer.....that blower is a lifetime machine....keep up with maintenance and it will treat you well and handle anything mother nature throws at you.


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## e.fisher26 (Nov 6, 2016)

Good deal in my book


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kiss4aFrog (Nov 3, 2013)

DanOpi said:


> Only used a handful of times before moving to Florida. Both recoil and electric start are functioning.


No matter how many times it was used it appears to be in great shape for $350 and it should outlast you :devil: Clearly a win win for you. I'd be on my way there to get it . . . now!

What caught my eye was the muffler. Then how little, if any rust I can see, the tires, ... I'd love to see the inside of the bucket and the chute. Maybe this really was a garage queen that didn't see much use.


.


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## barney (Nov 21, 2017)

Nice.


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## db130 (Feb 16, 2013)

The 924082 would have been sold in the mid 90s, actually, and has quite a few things going for it:

Locking diff 
ball bearings instead of bushings for the axles
tall chute
snow hog tires

(there's also a knockoff plate on the control panel if you're interested in adding an optional headlight, and the engine has the headlight plug)

Assuming that the axle bearings and friction wheel are in good shape, $350 is not a bad price.


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

db130 said:


> The 924082 would have been sold in the mid 90s, actually, and has quite a few things going for it:
> 
> Locking diff
> ball bearings instead of bushings for the axles
> ...


i thought they were late 80s' well its 25 years old instead of 30 . the way the OP was talking it appears he thought it was much newer.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

I think the 924050 is the late-80's model... I have one and it's fantastic.

BTW it too has most of the things db130 mentioned: locking diff, ball bearings on the axle, and sno-hog tires. It's got what I'd call a mid-length chute... taller than the older models but not as tall as the "holy grail" chute.

Oh and to the original poster: I also think $350 is reasonable for that machine. It looks to be in great shape, and is probably built better than a brand-new machine that would cost 3 times as much (or more).


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## rwh963 (Nov 21, 2019)

hopefully the fuel in it isn't from the 1990's!


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## classiccat (Mar 1, 2014)

incredible condition cosmetically! Reasonable $ imho.


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## 88-tek (Nov 5, 2017)

rwh963 said:


> hopefully the fuel in it isn't from the 1990's!


Hmmm...it would be nice and green, wouldn't it? :laugh: LOL


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## Snowbelt_subie (Dec 20, 2016)

ELaw said:


> I think the 924050 is the late-80's model... I have one and it's fantastic.
> 
> BTW it too has most of the things db130 mentioned: locking diff, ball bearings on the axle, and sno-hog tires. It's got what I'd call a mid-length chute... taller than the older models but not as tall as the "holy grail" chute.
> 
> Oh and to the original poster: I also think $350 is reasonable for that machine. It looks to be in great shape, and is probably built better than a brand-new machine that would cost 3 times as much (or more).


Yea I had a 724 like that it was my first real blower... loved that thing.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## NWRider (Jan 6, 2020)

Pop the bottom cover off and take a quick look at the friction wheel to see if it is worn or if they may have replaced it recently?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The owner may not love the prospective buyer tipping it up on its nose (potentially spilling gas, etc), and removing the bottom cover, before actually buying it. If it really is in as good shape as it looks, I'm not sure I'd want to do that in the owner's driveway, to check a maybe $20 (?) part. 

And if it really hasn't had that much use (going by rust on the muffler, paint condition, etc), you could infer that it might still be in decent shape. 

If you can squeeze the drive lever, and hold the machine back (keep it from moving), then that friction disk is slipping, badly. Just as a crude but non-invasive test. 

The price seems fair to me, for during the season. Your location will play a part in pricing. I had a 924082, it was my first Ariens. Mine was heavily used, I suspect commercially. But it still served me well for several seasons, I bought it in 2011, it was a 1994. 

This video discusses things to look at when buying a used snowblower:


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

Its worth every penny of the $350 and then some (or its very fair)


Heck, an acquaintance insisted on buying my old Toro that was 25 years old, engine burning oil, rear bearing gone and part of the case so not fixable, the chassis was breaking apart and I had stop crack drills and doubling plates all over it. He knew all of that. 

He insisted he wanted it and gave me $50 for it. $350 for a close to perfect machine? Slam dunk.


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## penna stogey (Nov 25, 2019)

Don't need to kick the tires, tires looks brand new.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

Like he said. Or like Lennin, very well preserved!


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## DanOpi (Jan 15, 2020)

So I decided to go ahead and pick it up for $350.


I did a review of the donnyboy video for things to check and everything seemed to be good. Fired up on the first pull and fired up via electronic start. Wasn't able to hold the machine back while engaging the drive lever so the friction disk seems to be okay.


Very minimal rust - Only place I could find any is a bit along the scraper and then some in the chute and around the impeller.


Wheels will need to be pumped up a bit but not flat. The metal around the skid shoes looks to be in great shape as well as the skid shoes.



We strapped it up as best we could and thankfully made it back home with it!


Got it home and this is where I started to explore a bit more and pick around so I have a few specific questions and then a few general:


- I noticed that I'd get a solid drip coming out of (from) the carburetor when primed. I didn't notice this when picking it up and I did a quick search and it seems like this could be a normal result from over priming? Also it was a 30 minute drive shaking around on the back so may just need a bit to settle. Thoughts?


- Also tried running it again right when I got home and I'm not sure if it was "knocking" or just taking a second to come to but it didn't sound as smooth when I fired it up when picking it up. Got it up and running a did a quick test run along the side of the street with some slush/heavy thick snow. Threw it right over the top of the bank.


- I noticed an electrical hookup of some sort on the lower right back on the snow blower (see picture) and I have no idea what this is. Ideas?


- Wasn't until I was taking pictures where I noticed that one side was slightly higher than the other. Essentially it seems like the left skid shoe is making contact with the ground but the right is not so you have to push forward for both to make contact. Is this just a skid shoe adjustment that needs to be done?


- Best to tear everything apart and clean it up to learn where/what everything is or should I just let it be until we get some snow and see how it runs? 



- Must haves for simple repairs/cleaning? I have the basic set of tools, socket wrenches, drills, etc but no engine supplies (grease, de-greaser, cleaner, etc) so would be open to some suggestions.


Thanks for all the input! Excited for the next (hopefully) big snow storm!


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

dripping from carb is expected when priming...I prime until I see it dripping. Put a wooden paint stick ( or anything 1/8 inch thick) under the scraper, then adjust the skids to the ground. You're OK.


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## Ziggy65 (Jan 18, 2020)

DanOpi

looks like you got yourself a great deal, that blower has not seen much use over the years.
I would download a manual for it if you didn't get one with it. Do the recommended maintenance as per manual (oil change, grease, lube etc.) as soon as you can. Many videos on you tube to show you how to do any maintenance or repair. This forum is also a great source for help or for learning how to maintain any snowblower.

Good luck you should have many years of service from that beauty


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Wow, it truly only was used a little bit! It's in amazing condition. Now you get to keep it that way  

You should be able to download manuals here: 
https://www.ariens.com/en-us/manuals/download

It would be worth getting a grease gun, if possible. There are grease fittings on the machine (I'd expect on the augers, and for the axles), and that will give you an easy way to lubricate those spots. I use snowmobile grease, as the idea was that it is waterproof, and is meant for use in low temperatures. But I'm imagine that many greases would work well. 

I'm not sure what that electrical connector is. My guess would be it's for a headlight, since it has a lead coming from the engine's alternator (presumably), and a lead going to ground. 

As for the different heights on the skid shoes, I'd start by ensuring both tires are at the same pressure. The bucket bolts to the main frame, it's possible it is not bolted on quite straight? You could set the tire pressures, put it on level ground, and loosen those bolts, to let it all sit flat, then tighten them again. Then set the skid shoes height.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

Nice grab for sure:wink2: General bolt head condition, kill switch connector on the throttle bracket, the chute rod u-joints and worm gear tell the tale of the original owner not lying about the use. I'm assuming you took of the heater box off for pics? Personally I'd change the oil regardless of what it looks like. Pull the shear pins and make sure the augers spin on the shaft without them installed. Pull the fill bolt on the auger gear case and stick a Q-tip in there see what color/texture you get back out. Pull the belly pan and look around/clean up and grease.
Good luck with your new blower.


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## DanOpi (Jan 15, 2020)

cranman said:


> dripping from carb is expected when priming...I prime until I see it dripping. Put a wooden paint stick ( or anything 1/8 inch thick) under the scraper, then adjust the skids to the ground. You're OK.


I did exactly this and it still seems off by just a smidgen. Could be that the garage floor isn't level as well. Saw another suggestion on checking that the bucket is on straight. Thanks for the initial suggestion of this blower in my initial post!





Ziggy65 said:


> DanOpi
> 
> looks like you got yourself a great deal, that blower has not seen much use over the years.
> I would download a manual for it if you didn't get one with it. Do the recommended maintenance as per manual (oil change, grease, lube etc.) as soon as you can. Many videos on you tube to show you how to do any maintenance or repair. This forum is also a great source for help or for learning how to maintain any snowblower.
> ...



Found the manuals and have them saved. Is it worth doing the recommended maintenance just as I have no clue what's been done to it recently? I've fallen into the trap of watching donnyboy work on anything and everything already.




RedOctobyr said:


> Wow, it truly only was used a little bit! It's in amazing condition. Now you get to keep it that way
> 
> You should be able to download manuals here:
> https://www.ariens.com/en-us/manuals/download
> ...



Something like this work for a grease gun? https://www.amazon.com/Slippery-Pete-PSI-Lubricate-Universal-Suspension/dp/B07P75ZZ5G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


And this grease looks like it's rated from -60°F to 425°. Is there a standard go to? https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-SynPower-Synthetic-Automotive-Grease/dp/B000CQ4DK0


Should I drain the gas and oil and start fresh? Any oil works?


What gas combo should I use? Been reading about 91 + Seafoam?




Any popular degreaser or just whatever I can find?



Thank you all!


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

I'm not a grease-selection expert. I'd expect that gun and grease would be fine. 

I'd change the oil, but maybe leave the gas, if it's running OK. And if you expect to use it up. I'm using Mobil1 synthetic, I have 5W-30 in there. 

IMO (it's a topic with plenty of opinions), 87 octane is fine, I always add stabilizer to my gas when I fill the can. It's cheap insurance, to me. Add Seafoam if you want, but I've never had it actually improve (clean) a carb for me. 

I don't have a degreaser. I use rubbing alcohol (IPA), and/or Simple Green, for my cleaning needs.


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## WVguy (Nov 24, 2018)

I do the same as RedOctobyr, the grease gun looks the same as the one I have, got it at some auto parts store, grease doesn't matter as long as it's used unless you're in ND and it's -40°F I guess. As for oil yes, change it, use 5W-30, the mechanics I've talked to say it doesn't matter whether dino or synthetic as long as it's changed when due. Not changing it is what causes all the problems.

And yes, use a fuel stabilizer. I drain it completely at end of season, if you're SURE you're going to use it within a year you can get away with just using stabilizer. That isn't the case for me so that's why I drain the whole fuel system.


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## DanOpi (Jan 15, 2020)

oneboltshort said:


> Nice grab for sure:wink2: General bolt head condition, kill switch connector on the throttle bracket, the chute rod u-joints and worm gear tell the tale of the original owner not lying about the use. I'm assuming you took of the heater box off for pics? Personally I'd change the oil regardless of what it looks like. Pull the shear pins and make sure the augers spin on the shaft without them installed. Pull the fill bolt on the auger gear case and stick a Q-tip in there see what color/texture you get back out. Pull the belly pan and look around/clean up and grease.
> Good luck with your new blower.


Thanks for the quick hitting list. Exactly what I was looking for.



RedOctobyr said:


> I'm not a grease-selection expert. I'd expect that gun and grease would be fine.
> 
> I'd change the oil, but maybe leave the gas, if it's running OK. And if you expect to use it up. I'm using Mobil1 synthetic, I have 5W-30 in there.
> 
> ...





WVguy said:


> I do the same as RedOctobyr, the grease gun looks the same as the one I have, got it at some auto parts store, grease doesn't matter as long as it's used unless you're in ND and it's -40°F I guess. As for oil yes, change it, use 5W-30, the mechanics I've talked to say it doesn't matter whether dino or synthetic as long as it's changed when due. Not changing it is what causes all the problems.
> 
> And yes, use a fuel stabilizer. I drain it completely at end of season, if you're SURE you're going to use it within a year you can get away with just using stabilizer. That isn't the case for me so that's why I drain the whole fuel system.


Thank you both. So sounds like oil change for sure and gas maybe but since I'm going to be tipping it up and cleaning things up I figured I'll drain the gas as well. I'm reading through the manual and having a hard time finding the oil capacity. I see a "Crank Case Capacity" right above the oil type but wasn't sure if that's the same (20 oz). 

And sounds like for gas just always use stabilizer whenever filling up a can and then be sure to drain it at end of season? Any drained/left over can go into snow blower. No need for 91, 87 Octane + Stabil is fine?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

Crank case capacity would be the oil fill amount. But always double-check with the dipstick after a change, before starting it. Just to make sure nothing went awry (eg- didn't actually drain out all of the old oil, so ended up over-filling, etc). Running the engine for a few minutes before a change is a good idea, the warmer oil drains more quickly, but you also do a better job of getting out stuff that may have settled to the bottom of the oil.


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

DanOpi

That motor holds 28oz. of oil.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

Its been years since I had a prime type blower (didn't own it but ran it a lot, John Deere back in the early to late 80s)
Never had it drip fuel. I guess it ensures you have put a lot in! Ungh. 

If it only does it when you prime it and its not a lot, can live with it maybe. 

That said, one area that you can have issues with is with old carbs and drying out of gaskets or seals in them.
My solution as evolved over the yer was to keep fuel in the carb and tank. Sometimes they will swell back up and ok. 

If it keeps leaking when running you have a problem. then its a new carb or a rebuild kit.


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## RC20 (Dec 4, 2019)

I was putting rollers on my Yahmah and realized the scarper and skids were off. 

Not a big deal, the front frame may be off or just adjustment. Set it up the best you can and not a worry. Close if fine on that portion of the blower.


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## DanOpi (Jan 15, 2020)

RedOctobyr said:


> Crank case capacity would be the oil fill amount. But always double-check with the dipstick after a change, before starting it. Just to make sure nothing went awry (eg- didn't actually drain out all of the old oil, so ended up over-filling, etc). Running the engine for a few minutes before a change is a good idea, the warmer oil drains more quickly, but you also do a better job of getting out stuff that may have settled to the bottom of the oil.





JJG723 said:


> DanOpi
> 
> That motor holds 28oz. of oil.


Thank you both for the info. Will probably change the oil tomorrow. I'm following the manual here (https://apache.ariens.com/manuals/00040600.pdf) and it says the Crank Case Capacity is 20oz. Any ideas if it's 20 or 28?



oneboltshort said:


> Nice grab for sure:wink2: General bolt head condition, kill switch connector on the throttle bracket, the chute rod u-joints and worm gear tell the tale of the original owner not lying about the use. I'm assuming you took of the heater box off for pics? Personally I'd change the oil regardless of what it looks like. Pull the shear pins and make sure the augers spin on the shaft without them installed. Pull the fill bolt on the auger gear case and stick a Q-tip in there see what color/texture you get back out. Pull the belly pan and look around/clean up and grease.
> Good luck with your new blower.


Removed both shear pins and the augers were able to spin on the shaft without them. But I'm not sure if they are actual shear pins or just bolts that replaced broken shear pins?  Dropping a picture of them. Either way I have 6 new ones coming from Ariens.

Also unscrewed the fill bolt and stuck a q tip in there. I'm not sure what color I am or am not looking for but it was a yellow with some darker yellow spots. I also noticed that the bolt had some shaving on/around it. Is this a big problem?


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## RedOctobyr (Mar 2, 2014)

The right-hand one is a proper shear bolt (has 2 grooves in it, to weaken it at the appropriate locations). The left-hand one is a regular bolt, and risks damaging the gearbox if you hit something solid. Do not use it with the left-hand bolt. Wait until your actual shear bolts arrive.


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## oneboltshort (Dec 16, 2019)

That looks good for the gear case lube. They came with L-2 which is Ariens over priced gear oil. It should be right around the fill hole when sitting level. Kinda fill until it spills type thing. Things you don't want to see are :nothing (very bad), grayish to chocolate milk looking (water), thick paste with chunks of bronze (pretty bad):wink2:Very cool the augers are free, you should shoot the zerks with some grease and spin them around. The new shear bolts should look like the one on the right (51001500).


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## DanOpi (Jan 15, 2020)

So a few updates...

Received all my oil, grease, and new shear pins!

Decided to try the priming bulb again to see if I get gas leaking after letting the thing sit for a day or so. Yesterday it leaked gas on the first prime press. 

I did some reading and some said you may not even need to prime it if that's happening so tried starting it up without a prime today and it wouldn't go. Primed it once, gas spit out, and then it fired up on the first pull.

Some other talked about this leaking happening if the carburetor float and/or valve needle need adjustment or are bad? Need to read a bit more about carbs to fully understand this. Thoughts on this or should I just assume it's normal? No leaking outside of when I press the primer bulb.

Anyways let it run for 5 to 10 minutes and took a short video as I'm not sure if it's "running rough" or "knocking" as this is my first real engine I've owned. Let me know if something doesn't sound quite right.

After running it I drained the oil without a hitch. I also decided to drain the gas as I wanted to tip it up and clean everything. The gas was a little more tricky as I just pulled the clip and then the hose and stuck a gas can under it. Minimal spillage.

So at this point I'm looking to wipe everything down, remove the belly pan and take a look and some pictures.

Few questions:

- What should I grease up and can I just load my grease cartridge into the grease gun and rub it on whatever is needed?
- The zerks on the auger are the two things protruding on either side of the shear pin slot? The grease gun hose just plug into them?
- Still trying to find the correct oil amount. @JJG723 told me 28 oz but the manual seems to indicate 20 oz? Start with 20 and check the oil dipstick?
- Anything need to be checked cleaned up with the spark plug?
- I'm still researching the right Gas + Stabilizer + Seafom combination so any more info/opinions would be awesome.

Video Link: https://imgur.com/a/aT5FlSF

Thanks for taking the time to teach and help me out. Greatly appreciated!


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## cranman (Jan 23, 2016)

when you prime the carb...it forces gas into the mouth of the carb...which then can leak out onto the floor...that is what it is supposed to do......don't sweat it....


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## JJG723 (Mar 7, 2015)

DanOpi,

You're machine should have the Tecumseh engine model HMSK80. It will say on the label on the side of the motor. I've serviced many of those and they always hold 28oz. But if you want, your idea of starting at 20oz and checking the level will work to ensure a proper level. Just make sure the oil level is at the top of the cross hatch marks on the dipstick. Those Tecumseh's can be sensitive to a low oil level.


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## DanOpi (Jan 15, 2020)

cranman said:


> when you prime the carb...it forces gas into the mouth of the carb...which then can leak out onto the floor...that is what it is supposed to do......don't sweat it....


Cool. Thank you!



JJG723 said:


> DanOpi,
> 
> You're machine should have the Tecumseh engine model HMSK80. It will say on the label on the side of the motor. I've serviced many of those and they always hold 28oz. But if you want, your idea of starting at 20oz and checking the level will work to ensure a proper level. Just make sure the oil level is at the top of the cross hatch marks on the dipstick. Those Tecumseh's can be sensitive to a low oil level.


That engine is correct. Okay will do! Thank you for confirmation!

Got the new shear pins in and the auger greased up. I couldn't get my grease gun to "click" into the zerk fittings and I couldn't tell if it was actually filling them with grease or just covering the zerk. Either way I put some grease in the shear pin hole and spun it all around. Left a little bit of play in the shear pins.

Tipped the blower up and removed the belly pan. Man was it messy. Few globs of grease that I'm not sure if I should wipe or leave too. Found a few more zerks around the tires but didn't do anything yet as I'm not sure my grease gun fitting is actually injecting into the zerk.

Friction Disk doesn't look horrible to me but I don't know what a good one looks like. There is one belt that looks like it may be loose but again, not sure so I took a picture.


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## arienskids (Jan 26, 2018)

can you retake the video and see if you can get the machine to go from full throttle and slowly idle it down


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

I believe that is an HMSk80 you have and 26oz of oil is the correct I believe. Also that sounds like you just need to adjust the fuel mixture screw on the bottom of your carb. Turn it in clockwise until it sputters...immediately turn it back counter clockwise and it should run smoother. Countinue turning it counter clockwise until it sputters again try to find the middle of the two or the smoothest area between the sputtering if that makes sense.

HM & HMSK70, 80, 100 26oz. 720ml. of oil.


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

This is a great video for you....





Also this is a big help.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## SimplicitySolid22 (Nov 18, 2018)

That is the newest 94 I have seen. Inside the auger housing looks new!!!!!
The chute looks hardly used.

As all the boys have said worth the money you spent.

I repowered my Simplicity with a 94 HMSK80 so i know it takes 26oz.....mark the side of your bottle with sharpie straight across the window level where you think 6.0z. is up from the bottom of your quart.

Pour it in slow and keep checking side of bottle and you will nail 26oz. once you hit 6 oz. left in bottle mark. Always works perfect for me.


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

I agree. Looking at those photos it's like looking inside a brand-new machine! Well almost.

To answer a few of your questions, it never hurts to wipe down the bottom cover and any other "guck" you find on the inside of the housing. But *only* wipe it down, don't use any solvent or anything. If a tiny bit of grease/oil remains it'll actually help keep the thing from rusting, not that that should be a big concern.

Re greasing things, take the time to ensure grease is getting where it needs to be, and use an abundance of grease on the auger shaft! As in, pump grease in there until it comes out both ends. I've been a little more conservative with machines in the past and was rewarded with augers rusted onto the shafts.

The loose belt may or may not be okay... it's supposed to be a little loose when the auger drive is not engaged, but it looks like you're near the max on that. If you look at the service manual for the machine it should show how to adjust the tensioner pulley to reduce the slack (you don't want zero slack or the auger will never stop).

And re how the engine runs, was it fully warmed up in that video, and did you have fresh gas? Newer engines have to be pretty warm to run well with the choke off so if it had been running for less than about 10 minutes I'd say that's normal. Old gas can also cause that - if it's the same gas the machine came with, maybe drain it and replace with fresh.


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## DanOpi (Jan 15, 2020)

arienskids said:


> can you retake the video and see if you can get the machine to go from full throttle and slowly idle it down


I already have it all drained and tipped up but will upload a new video once I have some fresh oil and fresh gas in there and the carb adjusted.



SimplicitySolid22 said:


> I believe that is an HMSk80 you have and 26oz of oil is the correct I believe. Also that sounds like you just need to adjust the fuel mixture screw on the bottom of your carb. Turn it in clockwise until it sputters...immediately turn it back counter clockwise and it should run smoother. Countinue turning it counter clockwise until it sputters again try to find the middle of the two or the smoothest area between the sputtering if that makes sense.
> 
> HM & HMSK70, 80, 100 26oz. 720ml. of oil.


Ah yes. Will definitely watch the donnyboy video after I get fresh gas and oil in there and it all put back together.



ELaw said:


> I agree. Looking at those photos it's like looking inside a brand-new machine! Well almost.
> 
> To answer a few of your questions, it never hurts to wipe down the bottom cover and any other "guck" you find on the inside of the housing. But *only* wipe it down, don't use any solvent or anything. If a tiny bit of grease/oil remains it'll actually help keep the thing from rusting, not that that should be a big concern.
> 
> Re greasing things, take the time to ensure grease is getting where it needs to be, and use an abundance of grease on the auger shaft! As in, pump grease in there until it comes out both ends. I've been a little more conservative with machines in the past and was rewarded with augers rusted onto the shafts.


Cool. Will make sure to clean things up and keep a nice layer of grease/oil.

As far as re greasing, is there anyway to tell if the zerk is taking in the grease? I squeeze the trigger and remove the hose and there's quite a bit of grease sitting on and around the zerk. But I'm not sure if any of it is actually going in. Never can get it to "click" in or really attach. Maybe a cheap grease gun that isn't working.



ELaw said:


> The loose belt may or may not be okay... it's supposed to be a little loose when the auger drive is not engaged, but it looks like you're near the max on that. If you look at the service manual for the machine it should show how to adjust the tensioner pulley to reduce the slack (you don't want zero slack or the auger will never stop).


Ah good to know. Found this video that explains it pretty well too: 






ELaw said:


> And re how the engine runs, was it fully warmed up in that video, and did you have fresh gas? Newer engines have to be pretty warm to run well with the choke off so if it had been running for less than about 10 minutes I'd say that's normal. Old gas can also cause that - if it's the same gas the machine came with, maybe drain it and replace with fresh.


It had just been started in that video for a few minutes. Nothing more than 5 minutes. I imagine the gas was pretty old as the machine hadn't been used for a while before buying it. Gas is already drained and I'm planning to put some fresh Ethanol Free 91 + Stabil Marine in it.

Thanks for all the feedback and help!


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## ELaw (Feb 4, 2015)

DanOpi said:


> As far as re greasing, is there anyway to tell if the zerk is taking in the grease? I squeeze the trigger and remove the hose and there's quite a bit of grease sitting on and around the zerk. But I'm not sure if any of it is actually going in. Never can get it to "click" in or really attach. Maybe a cheap grease gun that isn't working.


There's a way to tell the grease isn't going into the fitting, and it's that there's grease all around the outside! :wink2: So yeah it sounds like your greasing efforts aren't being effective.

Zerk fittings and grease guns both can be finicky at times. You definitely have to press the gun all the way onto the fitting until it clicks. And you should make sure it's pointed straight onto the fitting which is almost impossible sometimes but you need to do it anyway. :devil: And you need to make sure the gun is actually pumping grease... if the handle is really easy to press, it may not be doing anything.

But the real test is where the grease is coming out. For example when greasing the augers, you should see grease come out at the end of each rake - near the gearbox and at the outsides by the bearings.


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