# Husky 15530sbxls loose gear box



## jjefferson (Oct 6, 2010)

Noticed that my impeller on my 15530 rubs on the bottom against the back side of the housing, if if raise the gear box it appears to go back to plumb.

Common issue? Guessing maybe if i make up a strap to hang the gear box it might help. Or are the side bearings going bad?

Any thoughts. There is maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch of slop if i raise the gear box (engine not running of course).

This might explain why the unit was so cheap to buy.....

Thanks

Jim


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

jjefferson said:


> Any thoughts. There is maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch of slop if i raise the gear box (engine not running of course).
> 
> This might explain why the unit was so cheap to buy.....
> 
> ...


I would be looking at the side bearings first. 

If the auger shaft has dropped that far that the rakes are contacting the housing, then I suspect your bearings (bushings) are worn out and probably non existent on the bottom side. If the old bearings are shot, might be an interesting challenge to replace them with bearings if you have the capacity to fabricate some bearing caps.

You might also take a look at the impeller bearing since the down angle on the impeller shaft may have caused some wear on that as well. it's almost spring (says he as it snows outside AGAIN) so you have lots of time before next winter to get it all sorted out. 

A strap would be a good idea, if you can find a way to mount it to the gear case without breaking the case. It would support the entire assembly in future. I was considering a strap for mine, but I don't think the gear case has the strength to support the kind of banging and jarring the impeller/augers get. Just looks a bit on the weak side.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

I think that model has stub shafts out of the gear box, and then the auger side mounts are actually bearings with a stub to mate to the hollow augers. They are kinda flimsy set up with only 2 bolts holding it to the sheet metal and then a bolt through the auger near the side and one near the gear case. The one I worked on the bucket side stubs/bearings were worn out. I think they were about $20 ea. Just try to look close and make sure the mounting area of the side of the bucket isn't deformed where the bearings attach. My neighbors was on one side and we had to knock it back a bit to avoid wearing the new ones out right away.


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## jtclays (Sep 24, 2010)

Actually found a manual here.
http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2009_USen/HUSI2009_USen__532428494.pdf

The parts I replaced, the flattened shaft was wobbly as could be in the bracket (look at the upper #2) on page 5.


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## jjefferson (Oct 6, 2010)

Thanks all
Agree on all points.
First going to let it warm up a bit - this is a shorts and t-shirt kind of project.
Going to start with side bearings, those have to be loose in order to let the whole thing sag, and then go from there.

Might just back out one bolt on the gear box and insert a longer bolt to hold a hanger. Have plenty of smurftex and aviation gasket goop on hand.

Agree also with that back impeller bearing. The previous owner said he just changed the belts, so will now split the unit and take a peak. Noticed last night the black shroud / discharge base is also split at the bolt pattern. So something else to fix.

While machine is apart might paint all the parts that have no paint, learning to spray Awlgrip at work - and that stuff is tough. Just have to find a good cool color, that will make work more visible down the road.

Still machine was cheap, and grew tired of always messing with the carb on my 30 year old Toro 1132 Powershift Maneater. i will miss the powershift function.

So....anyone need a Toro 1132 Powershift - even comes with a second parts machine (currently missing its carb)

Thanks all
Jim


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## skutflut (Oct 16, 2015)

jjefferson said:


> Thanks all
> 
> 
> While machine is apart might paint all the parts that have no paint, learning to spray Awlgrip at work - and that stuff is tough. Just have to find a good cool color, that will make work more visible down the road.
> ...


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## LowBalance (Feb 16, 2017)

I am new here. Could someone tell me how much gap there should be between the impeller and the housing. I have an older 8527ste. From the following discussion when the shafts in the auger/impeller Unit get saggy check the bearings? Seems to me the augger has a lot of latteral movement too. It doesnt throw well and seems to kill the engine with a high load. Might be bindng up?

thanks in advance
Lo


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## oldackonoak (Feb 11, 2018)

*I hve the same problem*

I bumped some PVC pipe not hard didn't shear a pin but the auger jumps up and down. And it eat allot of belts. I was also thinking of putting a support in from the gear case to housing. I was wondering what you did to fix this problem? I am also having issues with the Briggs. motor bending push rods. Apparently if mice build a nest up in by the carb or head . The head over heats and the valve guides warp. I have had several nests in there but cleaned every thing out. I summer the blower in the barn. So Briggs. sends me a new head that supersedes the old one and I don't think it is going to fit. I will find out this week end. I thought I cleaned all of the nesting material out maybe some got in behind the motor on the blower side where I couldn't see. Know I store it with all of the plastic off. Tried everything else. 
Any way let me know if you found any of those little stubby shafts bent or what was causing the problem.
Thanks
Ted


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